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diff --git a/43774-0.txt b/43774-0.txt index a25165d..adfc5fe 100644 --- a/43774-0.txt +++ b/43774-0.txt @@ -1,39 +1,4 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Expeditions of Zebulon Montgomery Pike, -Volume I (of 3), by Elliott Coues - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - - -Title: The Expeditions of Zebulon Montgomery Pike, Volume I (of 3) - To Headwaters of the Mississippi River Through Louisiana - Territory, and in New Spain, During the Years 1805-6-7. - -Author: Elliott Coues - -Release Date: September 21, 2013 [EBook #43774] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EXPEDITIONS OF ZEBULON PIKE, VOL I *** - - - - -Produced by Melissa McDaniel, Charlie Howard, Rachael -Schultz and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at -http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images -generously made available by The Internet Archive) - - - - - - +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 43774 *** Transcriber's Note: @@ -21299,361 +21264,4 @@ names twice alike. 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You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - - -Title: The Expeditions of Zebulon Montgomery Pike, Volume I (of 3) - To Headwaters of the Mississippi River Through Louisiana - Territory, and in New Spain, During the Years 1805-6-7. - -Author: Elliott Coues - -Release Date: September 21, 2013 [EBook #43774] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EXPEDITIONS OF ZEBULON PIKE, VOL I *** - - - - -Produced by Melissa McDaniel, Charlie Howard, Rachael -Schultz and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at -http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images -generously made available by The Internet Archive) - - - - - - - -Transcriber's Note: - - Inconsistent hyphenation and spelling in the original document have - been preserved. Obvious typographical errors have been corrected. - - Italic text is denoted by _underscores_ and bold text by =equal - signs=. Superscripts are prefixed with a ^caret. In Table D on - page 283, a symbol for "per" has been replaced with the word per. - - Footnote numbering, which in the original restarted at "1" with every - chapter, has been prepended with OP (Original Preface), NP - (New Preface), M (Memoir), or the Roman chapter number (e.g. VI-7 for - the 7th note of chapter 6). - - The table on pages 346 and 347 has been split to reduce the line - lengths. - - In Footnote M-6, 1892 should probably be 1792. - - On page 216, the barometer reading for August 25th seems to be missing - a digit. - - This book is the first of three volumes. Volume 2 is available at - http://www.gutenberg.org/etext/43775. Volume 3 is available at - http://www.gutenberg.org/etext/43776. It contains an Index and Maps. - - - - - Pike's Expeditions. - VOLUME I. - - - - - EDITION LIMITED TO ELEVEN HUNDRED AND FIFTY COPIES. - - - Nos. 1 to 150 on Handmade Paper. - Nos. 151 to 1150 on Fine Book Paper. - - No. ____ - - - - - [Illustration: Z. M. Pike] - - - - - THE EXPEDITIONS - OF - ZEBULON MONTGOMERY PIKE, - - To Headwaters of the Mississippi River, - Through Louisiana Territory, and in New Spain, - During the Years 1805-6-7. - - A NEW EDITION, - NOW FIRST REPRINTED IN FULL FROM THE ORIGINAL OF 1810, - WITH COPIOUS CRITICAL COMMENTARY, - MEMOIR OF PIKE, NEW MAP AND OTHER ILLUSTRATIONS, - AND COMPLETE INDEX, - - BY - ELLIOTT COUES, - Late Captain and Assistant Surgeon, United States Army, - Late Secretary and Naturalist, United States Geological Survey, - Member of the National Academy of Sciences, - Editor of Lewis and Clark, - etc., etc., etc. - - IN THREE VOLUMES. - VOL. I. - Memoir of the Author--Mississippi Voyage. - - NEW YORK: - FRANCIS P. HARPER. - 1895. - - - - - COPYRIGHT, 1895, - BY - FRANCIS P. HARPER, - New York. - - All rights reserved. - - - - -Dedication. - -TO THE PRESIDENT AND MEMBERS OF THE U. S. M. P. S. - - -Fellow Soldiers and Citizens: - -In presuming to claim your protection and patronage for the following -production, I feel less diffidence, knowing that the very institution -of the society will plead in my favor, it being avowedly formed for -the promotion of military knowledge. - -The work is merely a volume of details, and if it should be found -that in the relation I have delivered myself with perspicuity and -exactitude, it is the highest meed of praise that I claim. When I -touched on abstract subjects, or presumed to hypothesize, I have -merely suggested doubts without conclusions, which, if deemed worthy, -may hereafter be analyzed by men of genius and science. It being a -work which has arisen from the events of youthful military exertions, -the author, perhaps, has the most just and well-founded ground for a -hope that it may receive the solicited approbation of your honorable -institution. - -I am, gentlemen, with the greatest respect and high consideration, - - Your obedient servant, - - Z. M. PIKE, - - Major 6th Regt. Infantry, - M. U. S. M. P. Society. - - - - -CONTENTS OF VOL I. - - - PAGES - - ORIGINAL PREFACE, i-iv - - NEW PREFACE, v-xviii* - - MEMOIR OF ZEBULON MONTGOMERY PIKE, xix-cxiv - - PART I. - - THE MISSISSIPPI VOYAGE. - - CHAPTER I. - - ITINERARY: ST. LOUIS TO ST. PAUL, AUGUST 9TH-SEPTEMBER - 21ST, 1805, 1-81 - - CHAPTER II. - - ITINERARY, CONTINUED: ST. PAUL TO LEECH LAKE, - SEPTEMBER 22D, 1805-JANUARY 31ST, 1806, 82-151 - - CHAPTER III. - - ITINERARY, CONCLUDED: LEECH LAKE TO ST. LOUIS, - FEBRUARY 1ST-APRIL 30TH, 1806, 152-215 - - CHAPTER IV. - - WEATHER DIARY OF THE MISSISSIPPI, 216-220 - - CHAPTER V. - - CORRESPONDENCE AND CONFERENCES, 221-273 - - CHAPTER VI. - - COMMERCE OF THE MISSISSIPPI, 274-286 - - CHAPTER VII. - - GEOGRAPHY OF THE MISSISSIPPI, 287-336 - - CHAPTER VIII. - - ETHNOGRAPHY OF THE MISSISSIPPI, 337-354 - - CHAPTER IX. - - VOCABULARY OF MISSISSIPPIAN PLACE-NAMES, 355, 356 - - - - -PREFACE TO THE ORIGINAL EDITION. - - -To the Public: - -Books of travels, journals, and voyages have become so numerous, and -are so frequently impositions on the public, that the writer of the -following sheets feels under an obligation to explain, in some -measure, the original circumstances that led to the production of this -volume. Soon after the purchase of Louisiana by an enlightened -administration, measures were taken to explore the then unknown wilds -of our western country--measures founded on principles of scientific -pursuits, combined with a view of entering into a chain of -philanthropic arrangements for ameliorating the condition of the -Indians who inhabit those vast plains and deserts. His Excellency, -Meriwether Lewis, then a captain of the first regiment of infantry, -was selected by the President of the United States, in conjunction -with Captain C. Clarke [Wm. Clark], to explore the then unknown -sources of the Missouri, and I was chosen to trace the Mississippi to -its source, with the objects in view contemplated by my instructions; -to which I conceived my duty as a soldier should induce me to add an -investigation into the views of the British traders in that quarter as -to trade, and an inquiry into the limits of the territories of the -United States and Great Britain. As a man of humanity and feeling, I -made use of the name of my government to stop the savage warfare which -had for ages been carried on by two of the most powerful nations of -aborigines in North America. Why I did not execute the power vested in -me by the laws of the country, to ruin the British traders and enrich -myself, by seizing on the immense property of the North West Company, -which I found in the acknowledged boundary of the United States, will -be explained by my letter to Hugh M'Gillis, Esq., to whom I own -eternal gratitude for his polite and hospitable treatment of myself -and party. - -In the execution of this voyage I had no gentleman to aid me, and I -literally performed the duties (as far as my limited abilities -permitted) of astronomer, surveyor, commanding officer, clerk, spy, -guide, and hunter; frequently preceding the party for miles in order -to reconnoiter, and returning in the evening, hungry and fatigued, to -sit down in the open air, by firelight, to copy the notes and plot the -courses of the day. - -On my return from the Mississippi voyage, preparations were making for -a second, which was to be conducted by another gentleman of the army; -but General Wilkinson solicited as a favor that which he had a right -to command, viz., that I would agree to take charge of the expedition. -The late dangers and hardships I had undergone, together with the idea -of again leaving my family in a strange country, distant from their -connections, made me hesitate; but the ambition of a soldier, and the -spirit of enterprise which was inherent in my breast, induced me to -agree to his proposition. The great objects in view by this -expedition, as I conceived in addition to my instructions, were to -attach the Indians to our government, and to acquire such geographical -knowledge of the southwestern boundary of Louisiana as to enable our -government to enter into a definitive arrangement for a line of -demarkation between that territory and North Mexico. - -In this expedition I had the assistance of Lieutenant James [D.] -Wilkinson, and also of Dr. John H. Robinson, a young gentleman of -science and enterprise, who volunteered his services. I also was -fitted out with a complete set of astronomical and mathematical -instruments, which enabled me to ascertain the geographical situation -of various places to a degree of exactitude that would have been -extremely gratifying to all lovers of science, had I not been so -unfortunate as to lose the greater part of my papers by the seizure -of the Spanish government. - -With respect to the great acquisitions which might have been made to -the sciences of botany and zoölogy, I can only observe that neither my -education nor taste led me to the pursuit; and if they had, my mind -was too much engrossed in making arrangements for our subsistence and -safety to give time to scrutinize the productions of the countries -over which we traveled, with the eye of a Linnæus or Buffon; yet Dr. -Robinson did make some observations on those subjects, which he has -not yet communicated. With respect to the Spanish part, it has been -suggested to me by some respected friends that the picture I drew of -the manners, morals, etc., of individuals generally of New Spain, if a -good likeness, was certainly not making a proper return for the -hospitality and kindness with which those people honored me. Those -reasons have induced me to omit many transactions, and draw a veil -over various habits and customs which might appear in an unfavorable -point of view, at the same time that I have dwelt with delight on -their virtues. - -There have not been wanting persons of various ranks who have -endeavored to infuse the idea into the minds of the public that the -last voyage was undertaken through some sinister designs of General -Wilkinson; and although this report has been amply refuted by two -letters from the Secretary of War, published with this work, yet I -cannot forbear, in this public manner, declaring the insinuation to be -a groundless calumny, arising from the envenomed breasts of persons -who, through enmity to the general, would, in attempting his ruin, -hurl destruction on all those who, either through their official -stations or habits of friendship, ever had any connection with that -gentleman. - -As a military man--as a soldier from the time I was able to bear -arms--it cannot be expected that a production of my pen can stand the -test of criticism; and I hope, by this candid appeal to the justice -and indulgence of the learned, to induce them to spare their censure -if they cannot award their praise. - -The gentleman who prints this work knows under what a variety of -disadvantages it has gone to the press.[OP-1] At a distance during its -publication, and engaged in my professional duties, it was impossible -to give to it that attention which, in order to reach its proper -degree of correctness, such a work necessarily would require. - - Z. M. PIKE. - -FOOTNOTE: - -[OP-1] The publisher owes it to truth, and to Colonel Pike, to state that -he very much doubts whether any book ever went to press under so many -disadvantages as the one now presented to the public. Some of those -disadvantages must be obvious to every man who reads the work; but -there are many others of a nature not sufficiently interesting for -publication, yet of sufficient magnitude to retard the work, embarrass -the publisher, and impose more anxiety than has fallen to his lot in -the various books which he has published. It is, however, confidently -believed that, notwithstanding all those circumstances, the Journal -and its Appendixes will be found particularly interesting and pregnant -with important information. - - - - -PREFACE TO THE NEW EDITION. - - -Pike's expeditions were the first military and the second governmental -explorations which were pushed to any considerable extent in our then -newly acquired territory of Louisiana. The name and fame of the -brilliant young soldier who impersonated the authority of the United -States over all the ground between British and Spanish possessions are -thus inseparably linked with those of Lewis and Clark in the beginning -of our history of the Great West--a West so great that it reached from -the Mississippi to the Pacific. The two movements were similar in -scope and plan; both were in the nature of claiming possession of -property; they were alike fruitful of permanent good results; but they -differed entirely in the circumstances under which each was devised, -and to a marked degree in their respective purposes. Lewis and Clark's -enterprise originated with the President of the United States; and -though both of the men to whom that most memorable exploration was -confided were officers of the regular army, their military -organization was entirely subservient to affairs of state, being -simply designed to secure the most efficient discipline in the -discharge of certain civilian duties. Jefferson had invested heavily -in real estate; the Louisiana purchase had been made with the people's -money; he naturally wished to know what sort of a bargain he had made -with Napoleon; so he sent Lewis and Clark to explore the vast extent -of country he had bought. While their faces were still fixed on the -setting sun, which for them still dipped behind the shining snow-caps, -Pike set forth on his first journey northward; while they were -homeward bound from the South Sea by way of the mighty Missouri and -the rugged Roche Jaune, he was pressing on his second way toward the -Mexican mountains. Both his expeditions originated with the -commander-in-chief of the army; both were as strictly military in -method as in purpose. Pike was the simon-pure and simple soldier, who -had been ordered by his general to carry our flag among British -traders and Sioux, Ojibways, and other Indians of the Northwest, in -the first instance; in the second place, to display that emblem of -authority among the Osages, Pawnees, and Comanches, and plant that -standard of the republic on the still disputed boundary of New Spain -in the Southwest. All else that he accomplished was incidental to -Wilkinson's main aim. How daring were Pike's exploits, these volumes -testify. Their moral effect was enormous; their results proved -far-reaching; and some of these are still in evidence of intrepid -adventure pushed to successful issue. - -If the record of Pike's expeditions be overshadowed by the history of -still greater and partly prior achievement, we may remember that its -luster is dimmed only in comparison with the incomparable story of -Lewis and Clark. If this witness of arduous duty ardently done in the -service of his country stand dumb before that startling tragedy which -set the seal of sacrifice upon a devoted life, we may reflect that -such a consummation of noble aspirations but capped the climax of -unswerving patriotism and unwavering fidelity to lofty ideals when it -transfigured the already celebrated explorer into a national hero and -a popular idol. Pike's personality is not less picturesque than is his -career unique; our interest in his character becomes vivid as we study -its manifestations, and perhaps even outgrows that regard we may -bestow upon those of his achievements which have passed into permanent -history. The present volumes tell his own story, in his own way; they -are autobiographical in all that relates to the principal incidents -and most stirring scenes of his life, before that final catastrophe -which turned the tide of international warfare. If the narrative -never halted at the point of an unaccustomed pen it would not be -Pike's, and it would lack a certain quality which not even a Biddle -could impart to the more polished and finished history of Lewis and -Clark. It now seems probable that both books will endure, side by -side, so long as any interest in the beginnings of our Great West -finds a place in the hearts of the people. - -Pike anticipated Lewis and Clark by about four years in bringing the -results of his partly simultaneous explorations before the public. -Since the first appearance of his work, there has never been a time -when it has not been cited by scholars as an original authority in the -many matters of historical, geographical, ethnological, and related -interests of which it treats. Nevertheless, it is undeniable that Pike -has never been so widely or so well known as he deserves to be in his -double character of traveler and author. The soldier could hardly -desire greater fame than fell to the happy lot of the hero of York, -victorious in death; but what of his life? Who was this General Pike -before that? Who was Lieutenant or Captain Pike--where did he go -exploring--what did he discover--how should we know? In searching -contemporaneous records of the War of 1812 for biographical data in -the preparation of the Memoir which introduces these volumes, it was -always the great soldier--General Pike--whom I found, with scant -recognition, if anything more than mere mention, of the still greater -explorer--the youthful, the dashing and winning, the ardent and -enthusiastic lieutenant, who dreamed of glory till his dream came -true. The fact would seem to be that Pike's death on the field of -battle, under exceptionally thrilling circumstances, obscured rather -than accentuated those earlier exploits which set his title to fame in -the clearest and truest light. Probably no good general would have -failed in what Pike accomplished on the day of his death; but how many -subalterns in their twenties have won imperishable renown by -achievements in the field of exploration? One purpose I had in view in -preparing a new edition of this work will have been subserved if I -have succeeded in eliminating a certain popular aberration, in -calculating aright the parallax of Pike as viewed from different -standpoints, and in thus placing his name in proper historical -perspective. - -Nearly or quite all that an editor might be expected to say in his -preface concerning the subject-matter of his author will be found to -have been said already in one place or another in the course of the -extensive and minute commentary which appears upon almost every page -of the present edition. Nevertheless, so few are the persons who have -any clear or coherent ideas on the subject of Pike's performances, -that it will be to consult the convenience of most readers who may -take up this book to give here a brief statement of his journeyings. - -Pike conducted two entirely separate and distinct expeditions. One of -them, in 1805-6, was from St. Louis by way of the Mississippi to the -headwaters of this river, and return--for the most part by the same -way he went. This round trip, which I have called the "Mississippi -Voyage," forms Pt. 1 of his book. The other expedition was taken -westward from St. Louis into the interior parts of the then Louisiana, -to the sources of the Arkansaw river, and among the Rocky mountains of -present Colorado. In so far as Pike protracted this exploration of his -own volition, it forms Pt. 2 of his book, which I have designated the -"Arkansaw Journey." But at one point in the course of this journey -Pike was captured by the Spaniards, and conducted against his will by -a roundabout way through Mexico to the then Spanish-American boundary -between Texas and Louisiana. This episode, unflattering to Pike's -sensibilities, if not wholly unforeseen by him, he saw fit to make the -subject of Pt. 3 of his book; I have entitled it the "Mexican Tour." - -I. In July, 1805, Pike was ordered by General Wilkinson to explore and -report upon the Mississippi river from St. Louis to its source, select -sites for military posts, treat with the Indians, make peace if -possible between the Sioux and Ojibways, and find out what he could -about the British traders who still occupied posts in our newly -acquired territory. Excepting these establishments of the Northwest -Company, there were then no white settlements on or near the river -beyond the village of Prairie du Chien, and our flag had never flown -in that quarter. Pike navigated his boats to the vicinity of present -Little Falls, but could get them no further. He there built a -stockade, in which some of his men were left for the winter, and with -the rest pushed on by land along the river to Lower Red Cedar -Lake--Sandy lake--Grand rapids and Pokegama falls--mouth of Leech Lake -river--up the latter to Leech lake--and thence to Upper Red Cedar (now -Cass) lake, at the mouth of Turtle river. This was the furthest point -he reached. He considered the Leech Lake drainage-area--which I have -called the Pikean source--to be the true origin of the Mississippi, -and remained in ignorance of the fact that this river flowed into Cass -lake from such lakes as Bemidji and Itasca, though these and others -were already known to some of the whites. Returning from Cass to Leech -lake, and thence, by a more direct overland route than he had before -taken, to the Mississippi in the vicinity of Lower Red Cedar lake, he -descended the river to his stockade, picked up the men who had -wintered there, and as soon as the ice broke up started in boats for -St. Louis, which he reached in safety with all his party in April, -1806. - -II. In July, 1806, Pike left St. Louis on his second expedition. He -ascended the Missouri to the Osage, and the latter to the villages of -the Indians of that name. Thence he continued westward overland, -entered Kansas, and proceeded to the Pawnee village on the Republican -river, near the present Kansas-Nebraska line. Turning southward, he -reached the Arkansaw river at the present site of Great Bend. There he -dispatched his junior officer, Lieutenant Wilkinson, with a few men, -to descend the Arkansaw, while with the rest of his company he -ascended the same river into Colorado, as far as Pueblo. From this -point he made an unsuccessful side-trip which had for its object the -ascent of the since famous peak which bears his name, and returned to -his camp at Pueblo. Thence pushing up the Arkansaw, he was halted by -the Grand cañon, at the site of present Cañon City. He then made a -detour to the right, which took him up Oil creek into South Park. He -traversed this park, along the South Platte and some of its -tributaries, left it by way of Trout Creek pass, and was thus again -brought to the Arkansaw. He pushed up this river till he viewed its -sources, in the vicinity of present Leadville, turned about, and with -great difficulty descended it to the very camp he had left at Cañon -City. This part of his journey was not accomplished without much -hardship, and ended in chagrin; for he had fancied himself on the -headwaters of that Red river whose sources he had been pointedly -instructed to discover. Nothing was known at that time, to Americans, -of the origin of that great branch of the Mississippi which was called -Red river lower down; nor was it known till years afterward that what -the Spaniards had called high up by a name equivalent to Red river was -really that main fork of the Arkansaw which is now designated the -Canadian river, whose sources are in the mountains not far from Santa -Fé. _This_ was the river which Pike might have found, had his search -been more fortunately directed, though neither he nor any other -American was aware of that fact at the time. Nevertheless, he -determined to carry out his orders to the letter, and with more -courage than discretion pushed southward from his camp at Cañon City -to discover an elusive Red river. He passed up that tributary of the -Arkansaw which is now called Grape creek, and thus into the Wet -Mountain valley. There the party suffered almost incredibly from cold -and hunger; some of the men were frozen and crippled for life. But -Pike managed to extricate himself and most of his companions from -their perilous situation by crossing the Sangre de Cristo range -through the Sand Hill pass into the San Luis valley, where he found -himself on the Rio Grande del Norte. He descended this river to the -Rio Conejos, and there established himself in a stockade--in part at -least for the purpose of tarrying while he sent a small party back for -those of the men who had been left behind, both at Cañon City and in -Wet Mountain valley. - -The secret which underlay Pike's ostensible instructions from General -Wilkinson, and the mystery which is supposed to have enshrouded his -movements on this portion of his second expedition, are fully -discussed in my notes, at various points in Pike's narrative or in my -Memoir, where the subject obtrudes. Without going into any particulars -here, it is to be said simply that Pike may have been ordered to -proceed to Santa Fé--or as near that capital of Spanish New Mexico as -he could go with the force at his command--without being informed of -whatever ulterior designs the general of the army may have -entertained. - -III. Pike was captured in his stockade, with the few men he had left -about him, by Spanish dragoons, under the orders of General -Allencaster, then governor of New Mexico. The message he received from -his captors was disguised under the form of a polite invitation to -visit the governor at Santa Fé. On the 27th of February, 1807, he left -his post as a prisoner in the hands of a half-hostile foreign power, -accompanied by the remnant of his men. They were treated with great -forbearance--nay, with distinguished consideration; nevertheless, Pike -was brought to book before the authorities, and required to explain -how he had happened to invade Spanish territory with an armed force. -Governor Allencaster then ordered him to report to General Salcedo at -Chihuahua; he was accordingly escorted by the military down the Rio -Grande from Santa Fé to El Paso, and thence by the usual route -southward, in what was then New Biscay, to the first named city. From -this capital he was conducted, still under guard, through a portion of -what is now the State of Durango, around by the Bolson de Mapimi, -thence northward throughout Coahuila, and so on to San Antonio. -Continuing through Texas, he was finally delivered out of the hands -of his Spanish hosts and captors, on crossing the river which in part -bounds our present State of Louisiana; and ended his long -peregrination at Natchitoches, among his own countrymen. - -At this point the author's narrative ends abruptly, so far as any -itinerary of his movements is concerned. We are not even told what -became of the men who did not accompany him to Natchitoches--those who -were left behind when he started from the Rio Conejos, either at that -point, or in the Wet Mountain valley, or on the Arkansaw. It had been -understood, and was fully expected, that they were all to follow him -through Mexico under Spanish escort. It is probable that they did so, -and that all were finally restored to the United States. But at the -last word we have on the subject from Pike himself, eight persons were -still detained in Mexico. (See p. 855.) - - * * * * * - -If the reader will now turn to p. xxxvi, he will find there and on -some following pages an analysis of the original edition of Pike's -work, together with an exposition of the wholly exceptional editorial -difficulty of reproducing such a complicated affair in anything like -good book form. The author, like many another gallant soldier, versed -in the arts of war, was quite innocent of literary strategy, though -capable of heading an impetuous assault upon the parts of speech. He -may have acquired an impression, by no means confined to his own -profession, that a book is made by putting manuscript in a -printing-press and stirring it about with a composing-stick, which, -like a magic wand that some kind fairy waves in an enchanted castle, -will transfigure the homeliness of the pen into a thing of beauty and -a joy forever. Pike seems to have labored under some such delusion in -preparing his copious materials for the press, and no one appears -either to have advised him in these premises or to have revised the -proofs. The result was innumerable errors, both of the writing and of -the printing, most of which might have been eliminated with due care. - -In the original edition, which has never before been reprinted in -full, or in anything like its own make-up, the three separate -itineraries above noted followed one another consecutively, with only -the interruption of certain meteorological tables. These itineraries -made about one-half of the volume in bulk, but perhaps only about -one-third of the total _ems_. They were called "Parts," respectively -enumerated I., II., III., and were the only portions of the whole -which were printed in large type, as the main "body" of the work. The -greater remainder of the author's materials were then thrown into the -form of three Appendixes, one for each of the three foregoing Parts, -each one being necessarily displaced from its proper connection, and -all being set in small type. The contents of these Appendixes were -miscellaneous and multifarious, but reducible in the main to two -sorts: (1) Formal retraversing of the ground gone over in the -itineraries, with reference to geography, ethnology, commerce, -military and political topics, and related matters which came under -Pike's observation; (2) Letters and other documents upon a variety of -subjects, representing what may be regarded as the officialities of -Pike's Expeditions. - -The determination to edit Pike with the omission of nothing whatever -which the work originally contained, and to preserve as far as seemed -reasonably possible the shape in which it came from his own hand, -involved a problem whose solution was one of no ordinary difficulty. -The division of the book into three Parts was perfectly sound, and by -all means to be preserved. The main departure from Pike's plan that -seemed to be required was simply to bring each Appendix into direct -connection with its own Part, and set it in uniform typography, as -being of equal value and interest with the itinerary. Having made -these transpositions, I found it an easy matter to introduce -chapter-heads which should co-ordinate the whole of the contents. Each -of the three itineraries could be conveniently divided into three -chapters, covering as many stages of the several journeys; and in like -manner it was found that the contents of each of the three Appendixes -could be naturally grouped under a few heads, thus carrying out the -plan of chaptering the whole book. To effect this result required no -change whatever in the course of the itineraries, and in the -appendicial matters involved only some few unimportant transpositions, -mainly for the purpose of rearranging the official correspondence in -the chronological sequence of the letters and other documents of which -it consisted. But even in this small matter I have been at the pains -of pointing out the position which each separate piece occupied in the -original edition--perhaps with needless scrupulosity. A glance at the -tables of contents of this edition will show how well or ill the -remodeling has been done. - -The transpositions thus effected, together with the repeatedly broken -and sometimes blank pagination of the original, made it obviously -impossible to indicate in this edition the former numeration of the -pages. Otherwise, in editing Pike's text, I have been guided by the -same principles which I applied to my recent redaction of Lewis and -Clark. I do not think that any editor may feel free to rewrite his -author. It would be an unwarrantable liberty to sacrifice an author's -individuality upon the altar of literary style. And especially in the -case of an old book--one whose intrinsic merits survive what are "the -defects of its qualities," and thus cause it to reappear in a new -guise--is it desirable that the reader should feel sure he is offered -a genuine text. At the same time, the essentials of genuineness are -different from its factitious ear-marks, and may be preserved with -fidelity by an editor who, nevertheless, feels free to disregard -non-essentials. Pike's is both a rare and a curious book; yet we need -not venerate its abounding misprints, or burn the incense of -admiration in the face of its frequently solecistic grammar, or even -kowtow to its peculiar punctuation. Such things as these are assuredly -among the non-essentials of a pure text, always amenable to editorial -revision, and always open to the welcome attentions of a friendly -printer. But for the rest, as I lately said on a similar occasion, "I -have punctiliously preserved the orthography of proper names in all -their variance and eccentricity; and wherever I have amplified any -statement in the text, or diverted the sense of a passage by a hair's -breadth, square brackets indicate the fact." - -A few words may be expected in this connection upon the new matter, by -the introduction of which the single volume of Pike has been extended -to three volumes, thus more than doubling the original text. I have -seldom, if ever, studied a work whose author seemed to me in so great -need of an interpreter. Pike was not always precise in his statements -of fact, and sometimes failed to convey his own meaning with entire -lucidity. Much was thus left to be supplied by the imagination of the -reader, or to be clarified by the exercise of his critical faculties, -whether or no he were sufficiently informed in the premises to follow -his author intelligently. In subjecting the text to a scrutiny, -perhaps exceptionally close and rigid, I have desired in the first -place to inform myself of the exact significance which the author -intended his words to have, thus putting myself as nearly as possible -in his place, and always, as I trust, in full sympathy with him, -however diverse from his views any of my own opinions may have been. -Coming to such understanding of the work in hand--one whose -accomplishment is now nearly a century old--my duty seemed to be to -criticise the subject-matter from the standpoint of to-day, however -copious might prove to be the additional information required, or to -whatever extent the resulting commentary might be protracted. This -part of my work is represented by the notes with which the present -edition has been freighted, and which are typographically -distinguished from the main text. These notes bespeak their own -variety and perhaps comprehensiveness; but of their value or interest -it is not for me to express any opinion. - -Aside from this main exercise of an editorial function to the best of -my ability, I have been induced to add another to the several good -memoirs of Pike which we already possessed--notably Whiting's and -Greely's. In the preparation of this I have been able to avail myself -of much hitherto unpublished documentary material and other sources of -information which have not before been utilized for this purpose. -Under the circumstances of its present connection this biography could -be prepared with little regard to Pike as an explorer, for these -volumes cover all such ground; and thus I could dwell for the most -part upon other aspects of his life and character, such as those which -led up to his conspicuous adventures, and especially those of the War -of 1812 which closed with his death a career of military honor and -renown. - -At the time when Pike first appeared in print, it was the fashion to -regard an index to a book rather as an elegant superfluity, or a -luxury of leisurely authorship, than as the imperative obligation and -absolute necessity which we now find it to be, whenever anything else -than fiction or poetry becomes a candidate for public favor. Pike has -never been indexed before; and many who now see how lengthy is the -list of proper names of persons, places, and other things, may for the -first time become aware of the extent and variety of information of -which this author's work has proved to be either the prolific source -or the pregnant occasion. - -All of the plates which illustrated the original edition of Pike have -been reproduced in facsimile. They consist of a portrait of the author -and six maps. To these are now added a facsimile of an autograph -letter, and a new map, both prepared expressly for the present -edition. The letter requires no further remark than that it is -believed to be the first one ever published, and that it is also -printed in its proper connection in the text of my Memoir, with many -other hitherto unpublished documents. The new map, which I have -legended as a Historico-geographical Chart of the Upper Mississippi -River, has been compiled and drawn under my direction by Mr. Daniel W. -Cronin, a skillful draughtsman of the U. S. Geological Survey, and is -copyrighted by my publisher. It is based primarily upon the Map of -the Mississippi River from Lake Itasca to the Falls of St. Anthony, -compiled from surveys and reconnoissances made under the direction of -Major F. U. Farquhar and Captain Charles J. Allen, U. S. A., and from -the U. S. Land Surveys, published in fifteen sheets, on the scale of -inch to mile, by the Engineer Department of the Army, in 1881. The -hydrographic data from this source are supplemented from the latest -map of Minnesota published by the U. S. General Land Office, from the -sectional maps of Minnesota and of the Upper Mississippi lately issued -by Jewett and Son of St. Paul, and from various other sources, in -protracting the branches of the main stream and locating the lakes, -etc., beyond the area shown on the Engineer charts. The Jewett maps -are the best ones I have seen among those published by private -enterprise; the map of Minnesota for which a certain Chicago firm is -responsible is the worst of all those which have appeared of late -years. My corner-map of the Infant Mississippi or "Cradled Hercules," -on a much larger scale than the rest, is reduced from Brower's map of -the Itasca State Park, with the author's kind permission; the names -given to the numerous features of the Itascan source of the -Mississippi are those now officially recognized, with the addition of -a few which I have myself bestowed in the course of my notes on Pike, -among other results of my recent tour of observation. In lettering the -main part of this chart, my idea was, first, to illustrate Pike, by -marking his camps with their dates, along the river, and also his -trail, where he went overland; it is believed that this has been done -with all the accuracy that a map of this scale permits, except for the -route from Leech lake back to the Mississippi, which has never -been--and probably never will be--ascertained with all desirable -exactitude. Secondly, I intended to give the actual present names of -all the natural and artificial features which are delineated; and -thirdly, to add to these designations all the synonymy and other -historical data which the map could conveniently carry. Though there -is theoretically no end to the information of this kind which might -be put upon a map, the practical limitations in any given case are -obvious; and overcrowded lettering would be rather confusing than -helpful to the reader. In general, the historical data which have been -selected to be legended are in direct connection with and support of -Pike's text and of my commentary thereupon. Only those who have long -experienced the practical difficulty of making a good printer or -draughtsman misspell words in order to reproduce historical forms -literally can appreciate the obstacles to complete success in such an -undertaking; but I indulge the hope that this chart, whatever its -imperfections may be, will be found useful enough to warrant the great -pains which have been taken to approximate accuracy. - -As in editing Lewis and Clark, so in working upon Pike, I have been -encouraged and assisted by many friends, not all of whom have I the -pleasure of knowing personally. I am under special obligations to Mr. -Alfred J. Hill of St. Paul, Minn., whose knowledge of the history and -geography of the Upper Mississippi region is not less accurate than -extensive. Mr. Hill has been good enough to accompany me throughout -Pt. 1 of the work, and give me the benefit of his close scrutiny of -the press-proofs, in the form of constant suggestion and criticism, -besides frequent references to other available sources of information -which I might have overlooked. His valued co-operation to this extent -increases very appreciably the confidence which the reader may feel in -all that relates to the Mississippi Voyage.[NP-1] Mr. R. I. Holcombe, -county historian of Missouri, now of the U. S. Marshal's office in St. -Paul, has criticised those pages of Pt. 2 which relate to the Osage -river. The same friendly attentions have been bestowed upon the whole -of Pike's route in Colorado by Mr. Wm. M. Maguire of Denver; and upon -various points concerning the pueblos of New Mexico and Arizona, by -Mr. F. W. Hodge of the U. S. Bureau of Ethnology. Hon. J. V. Brower -of St. Paul, Commissioner of the Itasca State Park, has made me free to -use his map of the park in connection with the new historico-geographical -chart of the Upper Mississippi. The Hon. the Secretaries of War and of -State have granted permission to examine official archives of their -respective Departments; this research, in the War Department, has been -facilitated by Mr. John Tweedale, Chief Clerk, and Mr. David Fitz -Gerald, Librarian; in the State Department, by Mr. W. W. Rockhill, -Chief Clerk; Mr. Andrew H. Allen, Chief of the Bureau of Rolls and -Library, and Mr. Walter Manton of the same Bureau. Gen. A. W. Greely, -Chief Signal Officer, U. S. Army; Gen. T. L. Casey, late Chief of -Engineers, U. S. Army, and Mr. W. W. Winship, Chief Draughtsman of the -same; Major J. W. Powell, late Director of the U. S. Geological -Survey, and Director of the Bureau of Ethnology, Smithsonian -Institution; Mr. Henry Gannett and Mr. A. H. Thompson of the same -Survey; Prof. G. Brown Goode, Director of the U. S. National Museum, -and Prof. Otis T. Mason of that Museum; Prof. Harry King, of the U. S. -General Land Office; Hon. D. M. Browning, Commissioner of Indian -Affairs, and Mr. R. F. Thompson of the same Bureau; Mr. L. O. Howard, -Chief of the Division of Entomology of the U. S. Department of -Agriculture; Mr. A. R. Spofford, Librarian of Congress; Prof. N. H. -Winchell, Director of the Geological Survey of Minnesota; Hon. Charles -Aldrich, Curator of the Iowa State Historical Department; Mr. R. G. -Thwaites, Secretary of the Historical Society of Wisconsin; Mr. D. L. -Kingsbury, Acting Secretary of the Historical Society of Minnesota; -Hon. C. C. James, Deputy Minister of Agriculture of Ontario, and Hon. -A. Blue of the Bureau of Mines of Ontario, have each rendered valued -official or personal favors, or both. I am also indebted in various -ways, most of which are indicated in their respective connections in -the course of my notes, to ex-President Benjamin Harrison; Mr. W. H. -Harrison of North Bend, O.; Mrs. B. H. Eaton of El Paso, Tex.; -Governor A. W. McIntire of Colorado; R. T. Durrett, LL. D., of -Louisville, Ky.; Prof. E. D. Cope of Philadelphia; Mr. James Bain, -Jr., of the Public Library of Toronto; Mr. L. P. Sylvain, Assistant -Librarian of Parliament, Ottawa; Lieutenant J. R. Williams of the -Third Artillery, U. S. A.; Lieutenant H. M. Chittenden of the Corps of -Engineers, U. S. A.; Rev. O. S. Bunting of Trenton, N. J.; Prof. J. D. -Butler of Madison, Wis.; Mr. W. P. Garrison of the New York Nation; -Judge Thos. H. Bacon of Hannibal, Mo.; Judge Nathan Richardson of -Little Falls, Minn.; Mr. Charles Hallock of Hallock, Minn.; Mr. H. D. -Harrower of New York, N. Y.; Mr. T. H. Lewis of St. Paul, Minn.; Mr. -C. H. Small of Pueblo, Col.; Mr. Geo. R. Buckman of Colorado Springs, -Col.; Mr. D. Bosse of Great Bend, Kas., and Mr. Luther R. Smith of -Washington, D. C. Mrs. Mary B. Anderson of Washington, D. C., has -taken great pains in preparing under my direction an index, of -somewhat unusual extent and special difficulty, which I am led to -believe will be found exceptionally accurate. Mr. Robert M. Trulan and -Mr. H. E. Gore-Kelly of the Mershon Printing Company, Rahway, N. J., -have read the proofs with untiring zeal as well as professional skill. -Mr. Francis P. Harper has set no limit to the extent to which my -editorial work might be protracted, leaving the substance of these -volumes entirely to my discretion; and I have returned the compliment -by deferring to his judgment in all that relates to the manufacture of -a book which may be found worthy to stand by the side of Lewis and -Clark. - - ELLIOTT COUES. - - SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION, - WASHINGTON, D. C., - _June 30th, 1895_. - -FOOTNOTE: - -[NP-1] Since these words were penned Mr. Hill has made the long portage, -alas! His death occurred at St. Paul, on the 15th inst. - - - - -MEMOIR OF - -ZEBULON MONTGOMERY PIKE. - -BY ELLIOTT COUES. - - -The best Life of Pike we have had is that which was prepared by Henry -Whiting and published in 1845 in Jared Sparks' Library of American -Biography, vol. xv. (or new series vol. v.), pp. 217-314. This -excellent memoir might be now reproduced, were it not mainly occupied -with the account of those expeditions to which these volumes are -devoted, and thus for the most part superfluous in the present -connection. It still continues to be a main source of our information -concerning the events of Pike's life before and after those exploits -of 1805-7 which immortalized his name, and is particularly valuable in -all that relates to his closing career, as the biographer was himself -a distinguished soldier and competent military critic.[M-1] - -But I have much new matter to offer, derived from a thorough -examination of the archives of the War Department, which include many -original and hitherto unpublished documents in Pike's case,[M-2] from -diligent search among contemporaneous records of the war of 1812-15, -and from various other sources. - - * * * * * - -The Pike family resided in New Jersey for several generations. One -Captain John Pike acquired his military title in Indian warfare. -Zebulon Pike, the father of Zebulon Montgomery Pike, had been a -captain in the Revolutionary army, and had served in the levies of -1791, when he was made a captain of infantry Mar. 5th, 1792; he was -assigned to the Third sub-Legion Sept. 4th, 1792, and to the 3d -Infantry Nov. 1st, 1796; he became major Mar. 21st, 1800, and was -transferred to the 1st Infantry Apr. 1st, 1802; he was brevetted -lieutenant-colonel July 10th, 1812, and honorably discharged June -15th, 1815. He died July 27th, 1834. His son, Zebulon Montgomery, was -born at Lamberton, afterward a south part of Trenton, N. J., Jan. 5th, -1779.[M-3] - -During Zebulon Montgomery's childhood his parents removed to a place -in Bucks Co., Pa., near the Delaware river, and thence to Easton, Pa. -Whiting says that he was remembered by some of his schoolmates who -were living in 1845, "as a boy of slender form, very fair complexion, -gentle and retiring disposition, but of resolute spirit. Instances are -mentioned in which his combative energies were put to a test, which -would reflect no discredit upon his subsequent career." He had only a -common school education, which appears to have been as slight in -quality as it was short in duration, though he was at one time under -the tuition of a Mr. Wall, a person of local repute in mathematics. He -entered the army as a raw, shy country youth, of the most slender -acquirements in any direction, whose main making of a man was -ambition. - -The records of young Pike's earliest military service are variant in -some particulars not of much consequence. In one of his letters, -printed beyond, p. lxv, he says that he entered the army when he was -15 years old. This would be in or about 1794, and doubtless refers to -his cadetship. According to his biographer, he entered his father's -company as a cadet, date not given; was commissioned as an ensign of -the 2d Infantry Mar. 3d, 1799; promoted to be a first lieutenant in -the same regiment Apr. 24th, 1800, and arranged to the 1st Infantry in -1802. In Heitman's Historical Register[M-4] it appears that Zebulon -Montgomery Pike, of New Jersey, was first appointed from New Jersey to -be a second lieutenant of the 2d Infantry, Mar. 3d, 1799; was next -promoted to be first lieutenant of the same regiment, Nov. 1st, 1799; -and then transferred to the 1st Infantry, Apr. 1st, 1802. Whatever may -have been the facts in the discrepant cases of the earlier dates, -there is no uncertainty from April 1st, 1802, when the name and rank -became First Lieutenant Z. M. Pike, 1st Regiment of U. S. Infantry. It -was as such that this young officer was first detailed for detached -service in the exploration of the Mississippi, by order of General -James Wilkinson, dated from the Commanding General's headquarters at -St. Louis, Mo., July 30th, 1805. - -Pike had not before been distinguished from any other meritorious and -zealous subaltern, though his qualities had already attracted -favorable attention. His selection by General Wilkinson for this duty -was the beginning of all his greatness. The letter in which the detail -was made will be found elsewhere (vol. ii, pp. 842-844). The principal -other dates of Pike's brief but brilliant military career may be -conveniently given here, though in so doing I anticipate events which -will come up again in their regular order: His promotion to a -captaincy in his regiment occurred by routine Aug. 12th, 1806, when he -was voyaging up the Osage, early in his second expedition. He became -major of the 6th Infantry May 3d, 1808, in less than a year after his -return from his tour in Mexico--a journey which was directly -continuous with his second, or Arkansaw expedition, but one which, -having been involuntarily performed, he chose to separate formally -from the other, and to make known as his "third" expedition. He became -the lieutenant-colonel of the 4th Infantry Dec. 31st, 1809. From Apr. -3d, 1812, to July 3d of that year, he was on duty as deputy -quartermaster-general. He became the colonel of the 15th Infantry July -6th, 1812, and was appointed to be brigadier-general Mar. 12th, 1813. -But before this appointment was confirmed General Pike had been killed -at the head of the troops he led to the assault on York, Upper Canada, -April 27th, 1813, aged 34 years, 3 months, 22 days. - -I am favored by Lieutenant J. R. Williams, of the army, with the -following copy of the rough draught of a hitherto unpublished letter -from General John R. Williams of Detroit to Major Amos Holton, giving -an interesting picture of Pike, framed in his early environment: - - DETROIT, May 20, 1845. - - MAJOR AMOS HOLTON, - DEAR SIR, - - I have recd your esteemed favor of the 14th April last, on - the interesting subject of your contemplated publication of - a Biographical memoir, illustrative of the Character and - services of the late Brigadier Genl. Zebulon Montgomery - Pike of the U. S. Army. The half Sheet of the Albany Argus - which you designed to accompany your letter, and which - gives an account of a night battle on the Champlain - frontier, I regret to say, has not been received. - - The period of my acquaintance with the subject of your - contemplated memoir, is indeed distant and remote; and - altho' those days are still cherished in my recollection as - the halcyon and pristine days of my youth and vigor, Yet, I - cannot but be truly sensible that many interesting - incidents have escaped my recollection in the lapse of - forty-five years. - - Soon after my arrival at Camp Allegheny in the month of May - 1800 I became acquainted with Lieut. Zebulon Montgomery - Pike of the 2d Regt. U. S. Infy, he was shortly afterwards - appointed Adjutant of the Regiment, in which Capacity he - served during the Years 1800 & 1801. No officer could be - more attentive prompt and efficient in the execution of the - several duties of his office--nor was there any more - emulous to acquire a perfect knowledge of the Military - profession, nor more zealous, ardent and persevering in the - pursuit of scientific improvement. - - It was these qualities and disposition of mind that laid - the foundation of the subsequent Character and fame of - Zebulon M. Pike and would probably have introduced him had - he lived, to the highest honors, at least, in the military - profession under the Republic. - - I then understood that his only means of Education had been - such as could be obtained in Garrison under the eye of his - father then Major Pike at the several posts he commanded, - notwithstanding these disadvantages he was a tolerable good - english scholar and wrote a good hand when I knew him and - had also acquired by his own persevering industry a - tolerably good knowledge of the french language--this I - know from the fact of having frequently corrected, at his - own request, several of his translations from Fenelon's - Telemachus. - - Pike was very gentlemanly in his deportment--manners - agreeable & polished, rather reserved in general and - somewhat taciturn except when incited to conversation on - some topic in which he felt interest and considered worthy - of his attention he had less levity in his character than - even many of his brother officers Senior to him in Years - and Rank. His appearance was military yet somewhat peculiar - he generally leaned or inclined his head on one side so - that the tip of his Chapeau touched his right shoulder when - on parade--His Stature was about five feet eight inches - tolerably square and robust for his Age which I think must - have been Twenty Years in 1800. His Complexion was then - Ruddy, eyes blue, light hair and good features his habits - were in keeping with his character, uniformly abstemious - and temperate his attention to duty unremitted. At that - period the most vexatious evil and obstacle that attended - the maintenance of discipline in the Army was the general - and extensive use of Ardent Spirits, Whiskey among the Men - which was constantly being introduced in Camp by the Men & - Women attached to the service and other hangers on around - the Camp--On one occasion returning to Camp from Pittsburgh - about ten o'clock in the evening Pike and myself being - desirous of detecting the Soldiers in their Clandestine - manoeufvres in the introduction of whiskey approaching the - Camp silently through the bushes and occasionally halting - to listen succeeded in capturing several fellows with jugs - & bottles of their favorite beverage, not however without a - race after them. On another occasion while going down the - Ohio river in flats--The flats always halted for the night - at some convenient place furnishing good ground & - conveniences for Bivouacking for the Night a guard being - mounted and Sentinels placed at suitable points around the - Camp. The Soldiers were then permitted to Land build fires - and bivouac on shore if they thought proper to do so in - preference to remaining in the flats crowded as they - were--there was about 70 men detailed for the purpose of - managing Ten flats containing the Provisions under my - Charge. The Signal for embarking in the Morning was the - Reveille at day break and the General immediately after. It - being then about the 20 December the weather was Cold and a - good deal of ice drifting in the River. The men generally - preferred the Company boats where they had to labor less - than in those of the Commissariat where they had to labor - constantly to keep up in the line agreeably to the order - regulating the movement of the troops. One morning they - appeared to be desirous of escaping from the Commissariat - boats to their respective Company boats in hopes of getting - rid of the duty to which they were detailed and left the - boats as fast as they were ordered to embark until Pike - observing their disobedience seized and threw several fire - brans at those in the Act of leaving the boats to which - they had been detailed and called to me to assist him by - which means the men were taught a lesson which was not - required to be repeated the residue of the journey down the - River. - - This prompt and decided course on the part of Pike was not - only well timed but very important as it prevented much - disorder and Confusion which would inevitably have ensued - had he taken the ordinary and regular but slow steps to - punish the Mutineers, to bring them to a sense of duty. the - moment of departure had arrived, the boats were unmoored, - and those which had precedence were already under way - floating down the rapid current of the Ohio; The Colonels - boat particularly, to whom he would have had to Report was - already at some distance--The alternative then, which he - adopted as quick as lightning was not only judicious but - necessary and indispensible under the Circumstances of the - Case. It operated a Salutary and instantaneous effect upon - the insubordinate Soldiery which at once brought them to a - sense of duty and order. This circumstance in my opinion - speaks volumes in favor of Pike. The quickness and decision - which characterized the transaction furnishes an index to - his character neither to be mistaken nor misunderstood. - - After our arrival at a point equidistant between Fort - Massac & the Confluence of the Ohio & Mississippi Rivers, - about eighteen miles below Fort Massac the Army landed on - the 5th January 1801 at a high Bluff on the right Bank of - the River where they encamped cleared the ground which was - covered with heavy timber laid out an encampment after the - plan of Greenville built with log huts which was named - Wilkinsonville. - - Some time in the summer of 1801 he obtained a furlow to - visit Cincinnati as it was believed, on a matrimonial - expedition at which time he was married to his present - relict Mrs. Pike. - - During the period alluded to, the duties of the Adjutant - were arduous and unremitting--especially during the - encampment on the Allegheny in addition to guard and police - duty--We had Battalion drill twice or thrice a week and - Company drill every day; and Officer drill once or twice a - week, thus you can perceive that our time was industriously - appropriated to the acquisition of military knowledge--We - had also the advantage of being drilled by officers that - served under the gallant Genl. Wayne and who composed part - of his Army at the memorable and decisive Battle of the - 20th of August 1794 at the Miami Rapids-- - - Colonel John Francis Hamtramck[M-5] of the 1st Regt U. S. - Infy acted as Brigadier Genl. under Genl. Wilkinson being - the senior Colonel of the U. S. Army--his remains now lie - within a stone's throw of my Office, near the Roman - Catholic Church of St Anne--As a Memorial of affection the - principal Town above this City and within the County of - Wayne bears his name Hamtramck as he was much beloved by - the inhabitants of this Country. - - Allow me here to make mention of the principal Officers - composing the Command at Camp Allegheny. Colo. David - Strong, Commandg 2d Regt Infy, Major Moses Porter with his - Co. of Artillery--Major Turner Brigade Inspector Captains - Graeton, Sedgwick, Shoemaker, (Visscher, stationed at fort - Fayette) Grey, Lukens, Claiborne--Lieuts. Rand, Whipple, - Schiras, Hook, Meriwether Lewis, Wilson--John Wilson--Z. M. - Pike, Dill--& to which was added at Wilkinsonville Lieuts. - Williams, Brevoort, Hughes, Hilton Many Blue & Others - together with a Battalion of the 4th Regt. under Major - Butler--making in the aggregate a force of about 1000 - effective men.[M-6] - - During the summer and autumn we were visited by Genl. - Wilkinson & his staff Composed of Lieuts Walbach & Macomb & - Lieut. Colo. Williams of the Engineer Corps.[M-7] about this - period sickness among the troops and many deaths occurred - in consequence of which the Troops were removed by order - of Genl. Wilkinson to Cumberland Heights[*] a season of - inactivity and a prospect unfavorable to Military life - prevailing--many Officers resigned and sought to obtain a - livelihood by other means than the profession of arms. - These and other subsequent events are matters of history - and I shall therefore close these short notes by pointing - to the subsequent life and services of the lamented Zebulon - M. Pike. - - My opportunities of acquaintance with him arose from the - Circumstance of having messed with Captain Peter Shoemaker - and himself about Eight Months without intermission we - three being the only members of the Mess. - - In conclusion, it may not be inappropriate to remark that - the period alluded to was during a state of peace. Yet, - whilst the prospect lasted that the Troops might soon - expect active service against the frontiers of the then - possessions of Spain--The Zeal, Ardor, Enterprize and - ambition of our Army could not have been surpassed; and - would have sustained a comparison with the best and most - glorious days of the Revolution, or of the late War with - Britain, or the later achievements of our Braves against - the forces of Mexico. - - You are at liberty to use these notes in such manner as - will meet the object you have in view. - - With respectful Consideration - I am Dear Sir Your Obedt Servt - JNO. R. WILLIAMS. - - MAJOR AMOS HOLTON - Washington City, D. C. - - transmitted the foregoing by - Mail Augt 26th 1846.[M-8] - -[*] Mr. Jefferson having been elected President of the U. S. The -policy of the Government changed instead of wresting the posts on the -west bank of the Mississippi from Spain by force of Arms as was -previously contemplated--They were eventually obtained by peaceable & -Successful negociation. (Orig. note.) - - - -The "matrimonial expedition" to which the foregoing letter quaintly -alludes was successful, like Pike's other expeditions of later date -and greater celebrity. The young lieutenant was married in 1801 (day -of the month not ascertained) to Clarissa Brown, daughter of General -John Brown of Kentucky. Whiting says that the issue of this connection -was "three daughters and one son. Only one of these children reached -the maturity of life, a daughter, who married Symmes Harrison, the son -of General [William Henry] Harrison, and became a widow, many years -since, with several children." Whiting continues with the following -statements, embodying perhaps as much as has hitherto been published -of Pike's domestic relations: - - Mrs. Pike withdrew to the seclusion of a family residence - [at North Bend] on the Ohio River just below Cincinnati, - soon after the fall of her gallant husband, where she has - since lived. It is well recollected by most of the officers - who served on Lake Ontario in the early part of the - campaign of 1813, that he regarded her with enthusiastic - sentiments, believing her to share in all his ardent - longings after distinction, and willing to make any - sacrifice for their fulfilment. No doubt it was with a - heart strengthened by such feelings, that she parted with - him on the eve of the expedition in which he fell; though - she may have felt, during her long widowhood, that the - sacrifice, with all its honorable alleviations, has been at - times as much as that heart could bear. - - There was found an interesting memorandum on one of the - blank pages of a copy of "Dodsley's Economy of Human - Life,"[M-9] which General Pike habitually carried about - with him. After affectionately alluding to his wife, and - his son then living, he lays down two maxims, which he - wishes may ever be present to the mind of his child, "as he - rises from youth to manhood." "First: Preserve your honor - free from blemish. Second: Be always ready to die for your - country." This son was cut off too soon to exemplify the - former in his life, or the latter in his death; but the - father, in his life and in his death, exemplified them - both. - -On seeking for information in regard to General Pike's daughter and -her children, I first wrote to ex-President Benjamin Harrison, by whom -I was favored with prompt reply, in part as follows: - - 674 NORTH DELAWARE STREET, - INDIANAPOLIS, IND., May 24, 1894. - - MY DEAR SIR: - - I have your letter of May 21st. My uncle, Symmes Harrison, - married the daughter of General Pike and left several - children; but I do not think I know of but one who - survives--William Henry Harrison, who lives in the - neighborhood of the old Pike homestead on the Ohio River, - about two and a half miles below my grandfather's old home - at North Bend.... I cannot give you the names of General - Pike's children; I was too young to have any knowledge of - them. Possibly my eldest sister, Mrs. Bettie H. Eaton, who - is now residing at El Paso, Texas, may be able to give you - some information about the Pike family. - - Very truly yours, - [Signed] BENJAMIN HARRISON. - -Mrs. Bettie Harrison Eaton was kind enough to reply to my further -inquiries, in a letter dated El Paso, Tex., July 2d, 1894, from which -I quote in substance: - - My cousin's, William Henry Harrison's, mother was a - daughter of General Pike, whose maiden name was Clarissa - Harlowe Pike. She was married to my uncle, John Cleves - Symmes Harrison, but in what year I do not know. Indeed, I - know very little about the Pike family, as I always - understood that my aunt was General Pike's only child; if - he had others I never heard of them. I remember her very - slightly, as I was quite a little girl when she died. Her - mother, Mrs. General Pike, of whom I have a better memory, - was a tall, dignified, rather austere looking woman, who - always dressed in deep black, wearing always a large black - Canton crape shawl and a black crape turban on her head, - which to my childish eyes gave her a somewhat awe-inspiring - appearance. She was a highly educated and accomplished - woman, and a fine French scholar. She kept for many years a - diary, which was written in French. My cousin, to whom I - refer you, lives on the old Pike homestead, and could - probably give you the dates you wish, as he no doubt has - the family Bible, and the old graveyard where the family - are buried is on the place. - -On applying to William Henry Harrison of North Bend, O., I received a -brief note dated Sept. 10th, 1894, in which the following information -is given: "My house burned some years ago, when all General Pike's -private papers were lost. He had but one child, my mother Clara. His -wife's maiden name was Clara Brown; she was the daughter of Captain -John Brown of Revolutionary fame." - - * * * * * - -With thus much--none too complete, but all that I have in -hand--concerning Pike's private life, we return to his public career. -The unnumbered extant notices to which the fame that he acquired gave -rise are mainly and most naturally devoted to the consideration of the -Mississippian, Arkansan, and Mexican exploits which form the matter of -the present volumes, but which need not occupy the present biographer, -as they speak for themselves. These cover the dates of 1805-6-7; and -before taking up Pike's life in 1808, we may next consider the -bibliography of the books to which his expeditions gave rise. - -The earliest one of these, forerunner of the regular edition of 1810, -is entitled: - - _An Account | of a | Voyage | up the Mississippi River, - from St. | Louis to its source; | made under the orders of - the War De- | partment, by Lieut. Pike, of the Uni- | ted - States Army, in the Years 1805 and | 1806. Compiled from - Mr. Pike's Jour- | nal. |_ - - Pamphlet, 8vo., pp. 1-68, no date, no author, no editor, no - publisher, no printer, no place of publication; title, - verso blank, pp. 1, 2; text, pp. 3-67, with colophon - ("Finis."); p. 68 being "Extract of a letter from N. - Boilvin [Nicholas Boivin] Indian agent, | to the Secretary - of War, dated St. Louis, | Oct, 6, 1806. |" - -This is an extremely rare tract. I have handled two copies, one of -which I own, title page gone; the other being a perfect example in the -Library of Congress at Washington. There is a third in the Ridgway -Library of Philadelphia; and Sabin's Bibl. Amer. cites a fourth, in -the library of the American Antiquarian Society at Worcester, Mass. -These are all that I know of, though of course others exist. The -authorship and circumstances of publication remain unknown, to me at -least. Sabin gives the date 1807; this is probably correct, certainly -true within a year, but questionable. I adopt it, in view of its -probability, and in the absence of conclusive evidence against it, -though Whiting says 1808. But early in 1808 Pike was already arranging -for the publication of his own book, which appeared in 1810. Pike does -not even allude to this publication, either in his own book, or in any -of the manuscripts I have seen in which the latter is mentioned. On -consultation with Mr. A. R. Spofford over the general aspect and -"make-up," no definite conclusion could be reached by that -exceptionally well-versed librarian. It is supposed by some, not -without plausibility, to have been a government publication; but Mr. -Spofford's ignorance of the fact, if it be such, is against this -supposition; for a publication which he cannot recognize on sight as -having been issued in Washington is unlikely. The tract looks as if it -formed a part of something else; witness the peculiar set of the title -page, the conclusion of the Pike matter on p. 67, and the appearance -on p. 68 of the Boivin letter, having no obvious connection with the -rest. However all this may really have been, there is no question of -the genuineness of this unauthenticated narrative. Pike never penned -it--he could not write so well as the anonymous author of this tract -did. But whoever wrote it had Pike's original manuscript journal or -note-book before him, and followed him closely, faithfully, and -accurately. Pike's case is put in the third person by the writer, who -gives in narrative form a better account of the Mississippi voyage -than Pike's slender literary attainments enabled him to write for -himself. This "text of 1807," as I shall call it, when I have occasion -to cite it in my commentary, is an invaluable check upon Pike's own -itinerary; he cannot have been unaware of its existence, and the -friendly hand which thus first gave to the world the best account -extant of the Mississippi voyage should not have been ignored when -Pike came to write out his notes for publication in the princeps -edition of his several expeditions, of date 1810.[M-10] - - * * * * * - -Immediately upon his escape from his Spanish captors and hosts, and -his return to his native land, Pike set about writing his book. This -was finished--or at any rate so far advanced that a contract for its -publication had been made--early in 1808 (see letter of May 27th, -1808, beyond, p. lxi). The original edition of his Expeditions is as -follows: - - _[1810.]--An Account of Expeditions | to the | Sources of - the Mississippi, | and through the | Western Parts of - Louisiana, | to the Sources of the | Arkansaw, Kans, La - Platte, and Pierre | Jaun, Rivers; | performed by order of - the | Government of the United States | during the years - 1805, 1806, and 1807. | And a Tour through | the | Interior - Parts of New Spain, | when conducted through these - Provinces, | by order of | the Captain-General, | in the - Year 1807. | ---- | By Major Z. M. Pike. | Illustrated by - maps and charts. | ---- | Philadelphia: | Published by C. - and A. Conrad, Co. No. 30, Chesnut Street. Somer- | vell & - Conrad, Petersburgh. Bonsal, Conrad, & Co. Norfolk, | and - Fielding Lucas, Jr. Baltimore. | ---- | John Binns, - Printer......1810. | One Vol. 8vo._ - - CONTENTS. - - Portrait of Pike, frontispiece. - - Title, backed with copyright, pp. [1], [2]. - - To the Public, being Preface by Pike and publisher's - Apology, pp. [3]-[5]; blank, p. [6]. - - Dedication, To the President and Members of the U. S. M. P. - S., one leaf not paginated, verso blank (= pp. 7, 8). - - Part I., being the Mississippi Voyage: Pike's Itinerary, - pp. 1-105; blank, p. 106; Meteorological Tables, 5 - unnumbered leaves, raising pages to 116, last blank. - - Part II., being the Arkansaw Journey: Instructions to Pike, - pp. 107-110; Pike's Itinerary, pp. 111-204. - - Part III., being the Mexican Tour: Pike's Itinerary, pp. - 205-277; p. 278 blank; one blank leaf; Meteorological - Table, one unpaged leaf. - - Appendix to Part I., pp. 1-66 (last not numbered) + 2 folding - Tables; contains Documents Nos. 1-18, and some others (No. - 18, pp. 41-66, is Observations, etc., on the Mississippi - Voyage); the folders are Tables C and F (other tables being - on pages), respectively to face p. 40 and p. 66. - - Appendix to Part II., pp. 1-53 (p. 54 blank), + 1 folding - Table to face p. 53; contains (No. 1) A Dissertation, etc., - on the Arkansaw Journey, pp. 1-18; (No. 2) Lieut. - Wilkinson's Report on his Arkansaw Expedition, pp. 19-32; - and other Documents to No. 15. - - Appendix to Part III., pp. 1-87 (p. 88 blank); contains - (No. 1) Geographical, Statistical, and General - Observations, etc., on the Mexican Tour, pp. 1-51, by far - the most important thing in the book; No. 2, pp. 52, 53, a - certain Vocabulary belonging to the Mississippi Voyage, and - therefore to App. to Part I.; with other Documents to No. - 19. - - Map, Falls of St. Anthony, page size. - - Map, Mississippi river, about 29-7/8 × 9 inches. - - Map, the First Part of Pike's Chart of Louisiana, folding, - about 17½ × 17½ inches, called Plate I. - - Map, the Second Part of Pike's Chart of Louisiana, folding, - about 17 × 15½ inches, called Plate II. - - Map, Internal Provinces of New Spain, about 18¼ × 17¾ - inches. - - Map, Sketch of the Viceroyalty of New Spain, about 15-5/8 × - 12-7/8 inches. - - Total pages 8 + 278 + 10 + 4 + 66 + 54 + 88 = 508, some not paginated, - a few blank; 5 sets of pagination. Inserts 1 portrait, 3 - folding tables, 6 maps (5 folding) = 10. Folders all may be - found in a separate vol. in some copies. - -It has been said, "The pen is mightier than the sword." Pike's pen -proved mightier than his sword, and pistols too, in putting bookmaking -to confusion and editors to despair. It would be hard to find a match -for the disorder in which Pike's materials were set forth in print, -especially in the several Appendixes: Even the patient printer would -not let it go without published apology. No editor has hitherto been -found expert or rash enough to reproduce anything like the original -arrangement of the "Parts," "Appendixes" with their numerous pieces, -folding "Tables," etc. The English editor, who first undertook to -bring something like cosmos out of this chaos, created a new book by -weaving as much as he could of the matter of the Appendixes into the -main text, or into footnotes thereto, thereby greatly reducing the -bulk of the appendicial texts. But these contained documents which -proved refractory to such treatment; the plan could not be fully -carried out, for there was a residuum which still called for an -Appendix. In fact, the real bulk of Pike's cargo is in these -Appendixes; his Itineraries--the only portions of his book which were -printed in large type, as main text--being less important, if not less -interesting, than the rest of the freight. In approaching my own -editorial labors, my intention was to adhere as closely as possible to -the arrangement of the original. This I flatter myself I have -succeeded in doing, with a few important exceptions to which attention -is pointedly directed in my notes. These transpositions, with the -introduction of chapter-heads, and co-ordination of all of the -original book in uniform typography, have probably effected the -required result. - -In 1811 Pike's work was also published, from another MS. copy, with -many modifications, in a handsome quarto edition, as follows: - - _[1811.]--Exploratory Travels | through the | Western - Territories | of | North America: | comprising a | Voyage - from St. Louis, on the Mississippi, | to the | Source of - that River, | and a | Journey through the Interior of - Louisiana, | and the | North-eastern Provinces of New - Spain. | Performed in the years 1805, 1806, 1807, by Order - of the Government of the United States. | ---- | By Zebulon - Montgomery Pike, | Major 6th Regt. United States Infantry. - | ---- | London: | Printed for Longman, Hurst, Rees, Orme, - and Brown, | Paternoster-Row. | ---- | 1811. |_ - - One vol., 4to. Half-title, 1 leaf, verso blank; title, 1 - leaf, verso blank; advertisement, dated Jan. 28th, 1811, - and signed Thomas Rees, pp. v-ix; Congressional matters - taken from the App. to Part III. of the orig. ed., pp. - xi-xviii; contents, pp. xix, xx; main text, pp. 1-390; - Appendix, pp. 391-436; colophon, J. G. Barnard, Printer, - Skinner-street, London. The copy examined has only two - maps--the Mississippi, reduced to 4to page size; Louisiana - and New Mexico, prepared by putting together two of Pike's - orig. maps and reducing the result to 10-1/8 × 13-7/8 - inches. Folding tables reset to page size. - -This is the standard English edition, prepared under the careful and -able editorship of Dr. Thomas Rees, from a manuscript copy transmitted -to England at the time that the original manuscript went to press in -America. This edition, and not the American of 1810, is the basis of -the French and Dutch versions, and is also the one which was textually -reprinted as the Denver edition of 1889. Dr. Rees made Pike a much -better book than the author made for himself. The very great -differences from the American original, due to the English editor's -literary skill, are modestly set forth in the latter's Advertisement. -It appears from this that the MS. transmitted to England "was divided -into six parts, comprising the three journals which follow, and the -observations pertaining to each in a separate portion." As the -appendicial matters were received "in the desultory manner in which -they were originally composed, the editor judged it for the advantage -of the work to restore them, as nearly as he possibly could, in -distinct paragraphs, to the places they had first occupied in the -journal, thus rendering it unnecessary to lead the reader a second -time over the same ground." In other words, Dr. Rees picked the -helter-skelter Appendixes to pieces, and wove most of their contents -into the main text, as already said. The accounts of the Indians on -the Upper Mississippi, and the Observations on New Spain, he -"preserved in their original state. The Notes and Appendixes, with -some variation of arrangement, have been printed after the -manuscripts, but a few articles have been omitted, as containing only -repetitions of what had already appeared in the body of the work. With -respect to the language and style of the Author, the Editor felt he -had a much more delicate task to perform than in the disposal of the -materials." He therefore preserved Pike's language in substance, but -corrected his grammar freely. Dr. Rees' avowal of the trouble he had -with proper names of persons and places will surprise no one who reads -the present edition and sees with what extraordinary perversions of -Indian, French, and Spanish names both Dr. Rees and myself had to -contend. Dr. Rees speaks also of the "ignorant and careless -transcriber" of the copy which reached him, and observes further: "It -is mortifying to find that in America, where the Author was -accessible, and might readily have elucidated any accidental -obscurities in his manuscript, the work has been printed in very -nearly as incorrect a state as it appeared in the present editor's -copy. The sheets of the American Edition reached here some time after -his own had been in the printer's hands, but its numerous errors, -discreditable certainly to the American press, left him little to -regret that they had not arrived at an earlier period." For the rest, -Dr. Rees remarks that he furnished "some cursory notes, which are -distinguished by the letter E," and adds: "In the account of New Spain -he has subjoined the population of several places from Humboldt's -recent 'Essai Politique,' in order to furnish the reader with the -means of instant comparison. It is pleasing to observe how nearly -these statements agree in the most material instances; and the -circumstance affords no slight evidence of the general accuracy of -Major Pike's information." He is charitable enough to refrain from -adding what else this circumstance evidences. Dr. Rees' further -introduction to his main text consists of the Congressional papers, -which in the orig. ed. form a part of the App. to Pt. 3, and which are -given this prominence, apparently, to authenticate the whole work in -the eyes of the English public by these officialities. In the copy of -the Rees edition which I have handled I find but two maps, reduced as -above said. - -This was followed in 1812 by a French version, the title and collation -of which are here given: - - _[1812]--Voyage | au | Nouveau-Mexique, | a la suite a'une - expédition ordonnée | par le Gouvernement des États-Unis, | - pour reconnoître les sources des rivières | Arkansas, - Kansès, la Platte et Pierre-jaune, | dans l'intérieur de la - Louisiane occidentale. | Précédé | a'une Excursion aux - Sources du Mississippi, | Pendant les années 1805, 1806, et - 1807. | Par le Major Z. M. Pike. | Traduit de l'anglais | - Par M. Breton, Auteur de la Biblioth. géographique. | Orné - d'une Nouvelle Carte de la Louisiane, en trois parties. | - Tome Premier [Second]. | A Paris, | Chez D'Hautel, - Libraire, Rue de la Harpe, n^o. 80, | près le Collége de - Justice. | -- | 1812. |_ - - Two vols., 8vo. Vol. I., pp. i-xvi, 1-368; Vol. II., pp. - 1-373, with 3 maps. In Vol. I. the half title p., backed de - l'imprimérie de L. Hausmann, Rue de la Harpe, N^o. 80, is - pp. i, ii; full title p., verso blank, is pp. iii, iv; - Préface du Traducteur, pp. v-xiv; sub-title, Voyage au - Mississippi, backed with errata, pp. xv, xvi; Avertissement - de l'auteur, pp. 1-6; Wilkinson's instructions to Pike of - July 30th, 1805, abstracted from one of the pieces of App. - to Pt. 3 of the orig. ed., pp. 7, 8; main text of the - Mississippi Voyage, pp. 9-236, ending Pt. 1 of the orig. - ed.; thence the Arkansaw Journey, with separate sub-title, - Voyage au Nouveau-Mexique, pp. 237-368, ending Vol. I., - with end of Pt. 2 of the orig. ed.--In Vol. II., half title - p. backed blank, pp. 1, 2: full title, backed blank, pp. 3, - 4; main text, pp. 5-373, beginning at date of Feb. 27th, - 1807, when Pike was starting on his involuntary Mexican - tour; this tour ending on p. 236, with end of the main - text of Pt. 3 of the orig. ed.; thence to end of vol. - various matters from the Appendixes of Pts. 2 and 3, - including Lieutenant Wilkinson's Arkansaw Report, pp. - 325-363, and a piece of padding, pp. 293-324, this last - being Remarques Additionelles sur le sol, les productions - et les habitans de la Nouvelle-Espagne, of which the editor - says that "ces détails sont extraits en partie de - l'excellente histoire d'Amérique par Winterbotham, et de - l'ouvrage de l'abbé Clavigéro." These 32 pages of padding - have no business in the book; I suppose they were wanted to - balance the bulk of the two volumes. The maps of this - edition are three in number, supposed to belong in Vol. II. - They are the Mississippi and the two Arkansaw maps, - prepared by Antoine Nau, redrawn and re-engraved, with - French names instead of English ones; the size is about the - same as that of the original; the execution is rather - better. The editor apologizes, Vol I., p. xiii, for not - reproducing Pike's two maps of Mexico, because he would not - venture "d'attenter à la propriété de M. de Humboldt," _i. e._, - steal Humboldt's thunder. For it seems that Humboldt - thought Pike had done so, and he had just previously so - expressed himself in a réclamation in Le Moniteur. Humboldt - compliments Pike pro formâ, and proceeds to protest: "Mais - les cartes du Mexique, publiées sous son [Pike's] nom, ne - sont que des réductions de ma grande carte de la - Nouvelle-Espagne, sur laquelle le voyageur a tracé sa route - de Santa-Fé par Cohahuila à Nacodolhes [Nacogdoches or - Natchitoches]." - -Humboldt's direct and unqualified charge of plagiarism against Pike, -which has never been answered and is probably unanswerable, is -reiterated in that one of his works entitled: Personal Narrative of -Travels to the Equinoctial Regions of the New Continent during the -Years 1799-1804. By Alexander de Humboldt and Aimé Bonpland. Written -in French by Alexander de Humboldt, and translated into English by -Helen Maria Williams, Philadelphia, M. Carey, 1 vol., 8vo, Dec. 23d, -1815, on p. xxii of which we read: "Mr. Pike displayed admirable -courage in an important undertaking for the investigation of western -Louisiana; but unprovided with instruments, and strictly watched on -the road from Santa Fe to Natchitoches, he could do nothing towards -the progress of the geography of the provincias internas. The maps of -Mexico, which are annexed to the narrative of his journey, are -reduced from my great map of New Spain, of which I left a copy, in -1804, at the secretary of state's office at Washington." In this -connection Humboldt also makes the same well-founded charge against -Arrowsmith, saying, p. xxi: "My general map of the kingdom of New -Spain, formed on astronomical observations, and on the whole of the -materials which existed in Mexico in 1804, has been copied by Mr. -Arrowsmith, who has appropriated it to himself, by publishing it on a -larger scale under the title of New Map of Mexico, compiled from -original Documents, by Arrowsmith. It is very easy to recognize this -map from the number of chalcographical errors with which it abounds," -etc. - -Of all forms of dishonesty, literary larceny is the most futile, -because the surest of detection. Plagiarism is worse than a crime--it -is a blunder. If the matter stolen is worth stealing, the transaction -is certain to be exposed, sooner or later. The distinction between the -use and misuse of the literary labors of another is so plain and -simple that it cannot be misunderstood. It depends solely upon whether -acknowledgment be made or not. Plagiarism acknowledged is no -plagiarism--one has only to say "by your leave," to appropriate with -impunity whatever he desires. But this instant formula is -indispensable. Subsequent apology or explanation is impossible. -Humboldt took Pike red-handed; this the present biographer deplores; -but he can neither discover nor invent a defense. Pike's senselessness -in this matter aggravates the offense. To have acknowledged his -indebtedness to Humboldt and Bonpland, and then utilized their work to -any extent he chose, would have been shrewd policy, as well as honest -conduct; for Humboldt's was already a name to conjure with, and the -hitherto nameless young writer could not have done better for himself -than to cite such high authority in connection with his own work.[M-11] -I have reluctantly satisfied myself that Pike's map of New Spain is -no other than Humboldt's Carte Générale du Royaume de la Nouvelle -Espagne, with Nau's errors and some little further modification. - -The Dutch edition of Pike, 1812-13, is as follows: - - _[1812-13.]--Reize | naar | Nieuw-Mexico | en de - Binnenlanden van | Louisiana, | Voorgegaan door eenen togt - | naar de Bronnen der | Mississippi, | gedaan op last van - het Gouver- | nement der Vereenigde Staten | in de jaren - 1805, 1806 en 1807, | door den Majoor | Z. M. Pike. | -- | - Uit het Engelsch vertaald. | -- | Eerste [Tweede] Deel. | - met Kaarten. | -- | Te Amsterdam, bij | C. Timmer. | - MCDCCCXII [MDCCCXIII]. | Stilsteeg, N^o. 18. |_ - - Two vols., 8vo. Vol. I., 1812 (notice misprint of date on - title page), pp. i-viii, 1-327. Vol. II., 1813, two prel. - leaves, and pp. 1-374, with three maps. Printed at - Amsterdam by A. Breeman & Co. In Vol. I., title leaf, verso - blank, pp. i, ii; Voorberigt van den Vertaler (Translator's - Preface), pp. iii-viii, dated Amsterdam, Nov. 7th, 1812; - main text, pp. 1-327, of which the Mississippi voyage runs - to p. 218 inclusive, and the remainder finishes the - Arkansaw journey, these being respectively Pt. 1 and Pt. 2 - of the orig. ed. In Vol. II. a half title and a full title - make each one unpaged leaf, and the main text runs pp. - 1-374, being Pt. 3 of the orig. ed. The three maps belong - in this vol. - -The general form and style of this version are most like those of the -French translation, from which, however, the Dutch differs in various -particulars. It appears to have been based upon the English quarto -rather than upon the original Philadelphia octavo, and to have been -translated independently therefrom, as the French also was. Both the -Dutch and the French editions follow the English one in working the -matter of the Appendixes into the main text--in fact, _no_ edition -that I know of has hitherto followed the awkward and exasperating form -of Pike's own book. The anonymous Dutch translator introduces a new -preface, and a few short footnotes, not reproducing those of the -French translator; the three maps are re-engraved from those prepared -by Antoine Nau, as in the French edition, but with lettering of the -names in Dutch instead of French. - -The foregoing English, French, and Dutch editions were speedily -followed by a German version. This seems to be a scarce book; I have -not yet been able to find a copy. I presume that, like the French and -Dutch, it was modeled upon the London quarto; but with what -modifications, if any, aside from translation into another language, I -have no idea. - -The latest and best edition of Pike which has hitherto appeared in the -United States, was published in 1889, as follows: - - _[1889.] Exploratory Travels | through the | Western - Territories | of | North America: | comprising a | Voyage - from St. Louis, on the Mississippi, | to the | Source of - that river, | and a | Journey through the Interior of - Louisiana, | and the | North-eastern Provinces of New - Spain. | Performed in the years 1805, 1806, 1807, by Order - of the Government of the United States. | -- | By Zebulon - Montgomery Pike, | Major 6th Regt. United States Infantry. - | -- | London: | Paternoster-Row. | -- | 1811. | -- | - Denver: | W. H. Lawrence & Co. | 1889. |_ - - One vol., large 4^to. Engr. portrait, frontispiece, - answering to pp. i, ii; title, verso copyright, pp. iii, - iv; introduction (new, by Wm. M. Maguire, Denver, 1889), - pp. v-xii; missing, pp. xiii, xiv; Report of Committee, - etc. (1808), pp. xv-xxii (abstracted from Doc. No. 6 and - accompanying papers of Appendix III. of the original); - contents, pp. xxiii, xxiv, or pp. 23, 24; main text, pp. - 25-351; blank, p. 352; Appendix, pp. 353-394; Mississippi - map, reduced, opp. p. 24; 1st Louisiana map, reduced, opp. - p. 146; 2d do., do., opp. p. 208; maps of Falls of St. - Anthony and of Mexico not found; folding tables reset to - page size. - -As appears from the foregoing title and collation, this is a faithful -and complete reprint of the English quarto. The title page is -facsimiled with the camera, down to the publishers' names; the text -is identical throughout, barring such slight literal or punctual -differences as are necessarily incident to resetting type. The only -noticeable change from the London edition is that Dr. Rees' -advertisement is replaced by a new introduction, from the pen of -William M. Maguire, Esq., of Denver. This is a valuable feature; my -only regret is that so competent and conscientious an editor as Mr. -Maguire--one familiar with much of Pike's route, and enthusiastic on -the subject--did not give the work that extended critical revision -which would have forestalled my own commentary and left me to exercise -my editorial wits in some other direction. As it is, I am indebted to -my valued correspondent in several particulars which appear in their -proper connections in the course of my notes. - -It is needless to cite here the multiplied notices of Pike and of his -travels or his book which appear in ordinary biographical and -encyclopedic publications. But, aside from Whiting's Memoir, already -adduced, I may notice some special articles of more or less recent -date. - -The Pacific Railroad Reports, XI. 1855, pp. 19-22, contain a notice of -Pike's Expeditions, by the late eminent geographer, General Gouverneur -Kemble Warren. The routes are traced correctly, except in the instance -of sending Pike over the Continental Divide to headwaters of the -Colorado of the West; for General Warren says: "It appears that -Lieutenant Pike has the honor of being the first American explorer -that reached the sources of this large river [the Arkansaw], and the -second that crossed the divide between the waters of the Atlantic and -Pacific oceans." The first clause of this statement is correct; in the -second, the writer was misled. - -"Mungo-Meri-Paike" is not the name of the celebrated Ethiopian -explorer who was born at Fowlshiels, in Selkirkshire, Scotland, Sept. -20th, 1771, and became known to fame as Mungo Park, but a -phonetization of the way "Montgomery Pike" reverberated in Spanish -ears. Colonel James F. Meline's Two Thousand Miles on Horseback, -etc., New York, Hurd and Houghton, 1867, exploits Pike in an -interesting manner, especially in Letter xxix, pp. 234-245. Meline's -contribution to the present biography is particularly valuable, as it -gives some documentary evidence of the Spanish view of Pike's invasion -of New Mexico. Most of this we have in Pike's book; but one of the -papers which Colonel Meline presents, both in the original Spanish and -in an English version, must find a place here; I give it in English, -from Meline's pp. 243-245.[M-12] It is Governor Allencaster's report to -General Salcedo, of date Santa Fé, N. M., Apr. 1st, 1807: compare Pike -at p. 607 and following pages; also, p. 809. - -The Topeka Commonwealth, a Kansan newspaper, during the summer and -autumn of 1877 published a series of articles by Noble L. Prentis. -These were afterward gathered in a volume entitled: A Kansan Abroad, -what purports to be the second edition of which appeared in 1878, -Topeka, Geo. W. Martin, sm. 8vo, pp. 240. One of the articles in this -book, pp. 191-214, is thus described by its author, who seems to have -been something of a wag: "The sketch, Pike of Pike's Peak, was first -delivered at Topeka, February 19th, 1877, under the patronage of the -Kansas State Historical Society. Afterward, in the cheerful month of -March, the author went around the country with his production in the -form of a 'lecture.' It was not as funny as was expected, and, as a -lecture, was not an overwhelming success. It now appears for the first -time in print; and may it find more readers than it ever did hearers." -In this wish I concur with pleasure; for Mr. Prentis evidently had -read his Pike with interested attention, and his essay is one of the -best short biographies of our hero that I have seen. I have occasion -to cite it twice in the present memoir. - -In his Explorers and Travellers, forming a volume of the Men of -Achievement series, New York, Charles Scribner's Sons, 1893, Art. VI., -pp. 163-193, General A. W. Greely, Chief Signal Officer, U. S. A., who -himself illuminates achievement in exploration, has given an -appreciative sketch of Pike's career, in the main correct, though -inaccurate in certain particulars. If I here specify two of these, it -is in no spirit of detraction, but with the good feeling that General -Greely reciprocated when I called his attention to them. It is said, -p. 173, that "Pike visited Red Lake and passed to the north, which -carried him to the drainage-basin of the Red River"; but Pike was -never out of the Mississippian watershed on that voyage, his furthest -point being Cass lake. This was formerly known as Red Cedar lake, -whence perhaps General Greely's misapprehension. Again, it is said, p. -183, that Pike "doubtless crossed into Middle Park [in Colorado] and -saw the head-waters of the Colorado"; but Pike went directly from -South Park back into the valley of the Arkansaw, and never viewed a -Pacific watershed. The general's summary, p. 175, of Pike's results on -the Mississippi is judicious--a conservative estimate, colored with a -generosity which none would wish to have been withheld: - - Pike had more than carried out his orders to explore the - sources of the great river, and did something more than - give to the world the first definite and detailed - information as to the upper river and its tributaries. He - discovered the extent and importance of the British trade - in that country, brought the foreign traders under the - license and customs regulations of the United States, and - broke up for all time their political influence over the - Indians. He did much to restrain the unlawful sale of - liquor to Indians by domestic traders, and not only - inspired the Indians with respect for Americans, but also - induced them to at least a temporary peace between - themselves. He replaced a foreign flag by the ensign of his - own country, and for the first time brought into this great - territory the semblance of national authority and - government. - -Hon. Alva Adams of Pueblo, Col., delivered an address before the -students and faculty of Colorado College, Colorado Springs, July 12th, -1894, which was published under the title: The Louisiana Purchase and -its first Explorer, Zebulon Montgomery Pike, 8vo, pp. 23. This is a -spirited oration, befitting the occasion and inspiring to read. It is -true that Pike's book appeared in 1810, thus anticipating by four -years the publication of Lewis and Clark; but can Governor Adams have -forgotten who first explored the Louisiana Purchase, and returned from -their expedition to the Pacific at noon of Sept. 23d, 1806? At that -date Pike was at the Pawnee village on the Republican river; and on -the 4th of October he had the news of Lewis and Clark's return to St. -Louis. His western expedition had been in progress only since July -15th, 1806. If Governor Adams had Pike's Mississippi voyage in mind, -that does not alter the case. Lewis and Clark started up the Missouri -May 24th, 1804; and when Pike began to navigate the Mississippi, Aug. -9th, 1805, Lewis and Clark were on Jefferson river, in Montana. -Furthermore, Pike was preceded in exploring Louisiana, from Missourian -waters to those of the Rio Grande, by James Pursley, who had himself -been preceded by Jean Baptiste Lalande, as we are duly informed by -Pike himself; and it is probable that French traders reached Santa Fé -by the same way half a century before Pike. - -The Annals of Iowa, 3d series, Vol. I. No. 7, Oct., 1894, pp. 531-36, -contains an article entitled: Pike's Explorations. This is anonymous, -but was written by my much esteemed friend, Hon. Charles Aldrich, -editor of the Annals and curator of the Iowa State Historical -Department at Des Moines. The article is clear and concise; and it -traces Pike's several journeys with absolute accuracy. - - * * * * * - -We return from this bibliographical excursus to resume the thread of -Pike's biography--would that there had been many more years to -chronicle in the gallant and patriotic, but all too brief, life of the -young soldier! No longer lieutenant, but captain, since Aug. 12th, -1806, Pike was delivered out of the hands of "our friends the enemy" -on the Sabine river, to which he had been escorted by his Spanish -captors, June 29th, 1807; and arrived at Natchitoches about 4 p. m., -July 1st. The following letter was received at the War Department -Sept. 29th, 1807; it is not included in the Appendix to Pt. 3 of the -book, and has probably never been published. I print verbatim from a -copy of the original now on file in the office of the secretary of -war: - - NATCHITOCHES 15 July. 1807. - - SIR - - I arrived here a few days since with part of my command - only, the ballance being yet in New Spain, but expect them - daily; as the Capt. General assured me they should follow - me in a short period; he detaining them I presume, to put - them through an _examination_, when he conceived they would - be more easily _intimidated_ into some equivocal - expressions; which might palliate the unjustifyable conduct - of the Spanish Government with respect to the expidition - which I had the honor to command. - - Whatever may be the sentiments of the Executive of the - United States as to the conduct of the Spaniards to - _myself_ and _command_, I am bound to submit. Yet I am - conscious that our Honor and Dignity, as a nation will not - permit us to tranquilly view, the violation of our - Territories; infringements of Treaties; Hostile - communications to our Savages; and oppression of our - Citizens; in various Instances: all of which I can make - manifest. - - The unreasionable Ideas of the Vice Roy, & His Excelly the - Capt. Genl. (the immediate representatives of his Catholic - Majesty on our Spanish Frontiers) as it respects the line - of Demarkation, is such that in my humble oppinion almost - precludes the possibility of a thought that they can ever - be amicably adjusted. - - On that subject I flatter myself I have acquired some - important and interesting information. - - Although the Capt. Genl. seized on (what he conceived all) - my papers, I yet possess by a little strategem, the whole - of my Journals; courses; and distances; and many other - Geographical; Historical; and Philosophical notes; which I - presume will be worthy of particular notice. - - I conceive by a fortuitous event, that information has been - acquired of the Spanish Kingdom of New Spain, which a - foreigner never yet possessed; and which in case of a - rupture between the United States, and that Govt, will be - of the highest importance: but should peace still continue - to bless those happy climes, will afford pleaseing subjects - of contemplation, for the statesmen, the philosopher; and - the Soldier. - - I received from Genl. Wilkinson, some Conditional Orders on - my Arrival at the place [this place--Natchitoches]; to - which I have replied; but as the destination of that - Gentleman, was uncertain, I thought it my duty to make a - short report to you: I shall remain here waiting for my men - a short time longer (as I expect some important information - by their hands) when I shall march by the way of Kentucky, - for the City of Washington. My papers being in such a - mutilated and deranged state it will require some time to - arrange them & (to which object every moment shall be - devoted) likewise at Washington: I can obtain some - necessary assistance as it would take one person a great - length of time to make fair copies, and draughts of the - plans, Journals &c &c of a tour of upwards of 4000 Miles-- - - The Surveys of Capns Lewis & Clark; mine of the - Mississippi; Osage; upper Arkensaw; L'Platte; and Kans - rivers; with Lieut Wilkinson's, & Mr. Freemans, of the - lower parts, of the Red, and Arkensaw rivers; together with - the notes I intend takeing on my route from hence up the - Mississippi; will I presume form a mass of matter; which - will leave but _three_, more objects, to be desired in - forming a compleate chart of Louisiana. - - I am Sir with High Consideration - - Your obl. Sert. - [Signed] Z. M. PIKE, Capt. - - The Honl. - HENRY DEARBORNE - Sect. W. Dept. - -While at Natchitoches, Captain Pike made it one of his first concerns -to move in the matter of Captain Nolan's men, then prisoners in -Mexico: see beyond, pp. 609, 657, 660, 666, 767, 811. The case is -little known, and has not proved an easy one to recover. But through -the kind attentions of the eminent historian, Reuben T. Durrett, LL. -D., president of the Filson Club of Louisville, Ky., I am put in -possession of an article which appeared in the Natchez Herald of Aug. -18th, 1807, setting forth the facts in full. This I have the pleasure -of presenting, literally according to the type-written copy which Dr. -Durrett transmits, Apr. 12th, 1895: - - NACHITOCHES, July 22, 1807. - - DEAR SIR--Inclosed you have a statement of the situation of - the companions of the deceased Philip Nolan, and a short - account of the ineffectual application I made, to rescue - them from the eternal slavery, which it is to be feared, is - destined for them, unless our government should be pleased - to interfere in their behalf. Certainly the court of Spain - would be too generous to refuse liberty to a few - debilitated and half-lost wretches, who have at least - expiated their crime, (if any) tenfold. - - As I promised on my arrival in the United States, to give - their friends an account of their situation, I could - conceive no more certain and expeditious a method than - through the medium of your Herald, and therefore wish you - to give this communication publicity; and hope the Editors - of the Gazettes of the states in which the friends of those - unfortunate young men may belong, will republish it, that - their connections may receive the melancholy assurances of - some being in existence, and that others are beyond the - power of tyranny and oppression. - - I am, &c., - [Signed] Z. M. PIKE. - - In a late involuntary tour which I made through part of his - Catholic majesty's dominions of New Spain, whilst at St. - Affe [Santa Fé], the capitol of N. Mexico and Chihuahua, I - met with a number of the poor unfortunate companions of the - deceased Nolan. One of whom gave me the following cursory - statement of their treatment, &c. since their being taken, - and on their joint application, I addressed a letter to his - excellency Nemeio [_sic_] Salcedo, in their favor, of which - an extract is subjoined, with the verbal reply of the - general. - - "We crossed the Mississippi on the 1st day of November, - 1800, at the Walnut hills [Nogales], and in January - following arrived at the river Brassus [Brazos], in the - provinces of Texus, and proceeded to build pens [for the - capture of mustangs]. In March, 1801, we began to run wild - horses, and having caught several hundreds of them we - selected the handsomest and let the ballance go. On the 22 - of March, we were attacked at break of day, by sixty - regular troops, and two hundred and forty militia and - Indians, with one field piece. Our commander, (Nolan) being - killed, we capitulated in the evening, on the assurance - that Nolan was killed, who only was to blame, we should be - conducted to Naggadoches [Nacogdoches], from whence there - was no doubt, we would have permission to return to our - country, as soon as the circumstances were stated to the - governor of St. Antonio. We remained there under promises - and daily expectations of being released until July, when - we were all put in heavy irons. - - "In August we were marched, in irons, to St. Antonio - [Texas]; and in December through the province of Coqquella - [Coahuila] and [New] Biscay, into the vice-royalty of - Mexico, to the city of St. Louis Potosi, where we remained - fourteen months, ironed, and in close confinement. In - February, 1803, we were dispatched to Chihuahua, where - after some time, our irons were struck off. From which to - the present time, we have experienced various treatment, - sometimes enjoying the liberty of the town, sometimes the - barracks, and for three months in irons and close - confinement. - - "David Fero, from near Albany, state of New York, has been - alternately in irons, the guard-house, limits of the fort - or procedie [presidio]--is now confined to the limits of a - fort called Cayome [_sic_], eight leagues distant from - Chihuahua--in bad health. [See beyond, pp. 660, 665, 811.] - - "Simon M'Coy, of the Oppelousas, or Natchez, a carpenter by - profession, has the liberty of the town of Chihuahua--in - good health. - - "Joseph Reed, state of Kentucky, in the province of Biscay, - but in what part and how situated unknown. - - "Solomon Cooley [Colly of pp. 609, 613, beyond], of the - state of Connecticut, a taylor by profession, carries on - his business in the town of St. Affee, which is his limits. - - "William Danton, of Natchez, residence and situation - unknown. - - "Charles King, of Natchez, works at the carpenter's trade, - is confined by night to the quartel at Chihuahua--in good - health. - - "Ephriam Blackburn, of Natchez, is in some of the procedios - of the province of Biscay--situation unknown. - - "Joel Pears, of North Carolina, deceased at Chihuahua. - - "John Waters, of Winchester, Virginia, a hatter, and - carries on his business at Chihuahua, has embraced the - Roman Catholic faith, after betraying a well concerted plan - of his companions to effect their escape, and in which it - is supposed they would have succeeded: his treachery caused - them a close confinement in irons, and in a loathsome - prison for three months--he is hated and despised, not only - by his own countrymen but by every honest Spaniard in the - place. - - "Ellis Bean, of Granger county, state of Tennessee, a - hatter, formerly carried on his business in the city of - Chihuahua, but being detected in an intrigue with the - daughter of an officer, and refusing to marry her, was in - close confinement at St. Jeronime [San Jeronimo], a few - leagues distant, in good health. - - "Thomas House, of Jefferson county, Tennessee, blacksmith, - confined to the quartel at night, but at that time was at - the hospital, in a very bad state of health. - - "Stephen Richards, of Natchez, has inlisted in the Spanish - service, was lately at Baton Rouge with his father, in the - quality of a citizen--belongs to the troops at Nagadoches." - - [Here follows the above-mentioned letter from Pike to his - Excellency, General Salcedo, given beyond, pp. 810-812.] - - This letter I presented personally, & after the general had - learned its contents, through an interpreter, he observed - in reply That having found those men, on his arrival from - Europe, to take the command of the internal provinces of - New Spain, in the dungeons of St. Louis Potosi, he had - demanded them of the Vice-Roy, and brought them to - Chihuahua, where their irons were struck off, and every - indulgence allowed them which his responsibility would - admit--that he had felt a particular desire to serve Fero, - but whose haughtiness of soul would not permit him to be - under any obligation to the government, further than his - allowance of twenty-five cents per day. That he had - reported their situation to the King, and consequently must - await the orders of his majesty; that with respect to the - letters, they had always been permitted to correspond - through him, with their friends--but that I might use my - own pleasure as to taking letters, but he thought the - peculiar delicacy of my own situation, should prevent me - from taking any written communication out of the country. - - Thus ended the conference, and thus stands the situation of - those unfortunate men at present. But as I knew some part - of the general's information to be incorrect, and - especially as it related to the freedom of communication - with their friends, I felt no such peculiar delicacy as to - prevent my bringing out letters--but brought every one - intrusted to my care. - - [Signed] Z. M. PIKE. - -The records I have examined do not show Captain Pike's movements for -the next few months. But imagination easily forges the missing links -of the return of an intrepid and successful explorer who had been a -captive in foreign lands, given up by his friends as lost to them -forever--a loved husband, whom _domus et placens uxor_ awaited--a -hero, whose story remained to be told to a public eager to hear of El -Dorado. He was in Washington soon--most likely before the end of the -year, certainly in Jan., 1808--and already in hot water. For he took -a header into the political caldron, which perpetually boils there, -but had been superheated for him in consequence of his supposed -confidential relations with his military commander-in-chief.[M-13] His -name came before Congress in a way which ruffled his plumes, and -extorted the following mettlesome effusion: - - WASHINGTON 22 Feby 08. - - SIR - - The Honorable John Rowan of the House of representatives - from Kentucky; has this day made some observations before - that Honarable body from which a tacit inference might be - drawn that my late Tour to the Westward was founded on - Views intirely unknown to the Government; and connected - with the nefarious plans of Aaron Burr and his associates. - Had those insinuations arisen in any other quarter I should - have concieved that my early choice of the military life, - the many ardious and confidential duties I have performed, - with the perfect knowledge which the Goverment must have of - my military and political Character; would have been a - sufficient justification for me to have passed over them in - silence: but comeing from so respectable a source. I feel - it a duty to myself; my family; and my profession; to - request of you a testimonial which may shut the mouth of - Calumny--and strike dumb the voice of slander. I have - therefore to request of you Sir! to Honor me with a - communication which may be calculated to present to the - Speaker of the House of representatives; or a Committee of - their Body, who have been appointed to inquire whether any, - or what, extra Compensation should be made me & my - Companions; for our late Voyages of Discovery, and - exploration; and that I may have permission to give - publicity to this letter which I have the Honor to address - you, and your answer. - - I am Sir with High Consideration - Your ob^t. Ser^t. - [Signed] Z. M. PIKE Cap^t 1^st. - UStates Reg^t. Infy - - The Hon. - HENRY DEARBORNE - Sec. War. Dep^t. - -On the same sheet of paper which has this letter, General Dearborn -drafted a reply, with many interlineations and erasures, to be copied -in a fair clerk's hand and signed by himself. In its final form, as -received by Captain Pike, it was published, with other papers relating -to Congressional action, as a part of Document No. 6 of the App. to -Pt. 3 of the orig. ed. of this work: see p. 844. Its first form is as -follows: - - Feb: 24. 1808, WAR DEPT. - - SIR. In answer to your letter of the 22^d Inst. I with - pleasure observe that alth'o the two exploring expeditions - you have performed were not previously ordered by the - President of the U. S. there were frequent communications - on the subject of each, between Gen^l. Wilkinson & this - Department, of which the President of the U. S. was - aquainted from time to time, and it will be no more than - what justice requires to say, that your conduct in each of - those expeditions met the approbation of the President; and - that the information you obtained and communicated to the - Executive in relation to the sources of the Mississippi & - the natives in that quarter and the country generally as - well on the uper Mississippi as that between the Arkansas & - the Missouri, and on the borders of the latter extensive - river to its source, and the adjacent countries, has been - considered as highly interesting in a political, - geographical & historical view. And you may rest assured - that your services are held in high estimation by the - President of the U. S.; and if opinion of my own can afford - you any satisfaction I can very frankly declare that I - consider the public very much indebted to you for the - enterprising persevering and judicious manner in which you - have performed them. - - [No signature.] - -To the above Pike made reply at once: - - WASHINGTON CITY 26 Feby 08 - - SIR! - - Suffer me to offer through you, to the president of the - United States the effusions of a Heart impress'd with - Gratitude for the very honarable testimonial of his - approbation received by the Medium of Your Communication of - the 24 Inst. - - The Confidence of the Executive, and the respect of our - fellow Citizens, must be the grand desiderata of every man - of Honor, who wears a sword in the republican Armies of the - United States; to acquire which has been the undeviateing - pursuit of the earliest part of my life, & shall mark the - colour of my future actions. - - Suffer me to add Sir! that I feel myself deeply impressed - by the Sentiments of personal respect and consideration - with which you was pleased to Honor me--and shall always be - proud to be considered as one who holds for your person and - character Sentiments of the Sincerest Respect & Esteem - - I am Sir - Your ob Sert - [Signed] Z. M. PIKE Capt - - The Hon^l. - HEN. DEARBORNE - Sec War Dep^t. - -Meanwhile Captain Pike was panting for promotion--dear to every -soldiers heart, and in his case well deserved. His majority was in -sight but not in hand. There appears to have been a technical obstacle -in his way. We often smile at the witticism expressed in the phrase: -"the United States and New Jersey." Like most such things, it is not -new. Being a Jerseyman, Captain Pike was required to establish the -fact that he was not an alien to the United States--not for that -reason, perhaps--still he was required to produce certain evidence of -citizenship, as the following curious correspondence shows: - - NEW-JERSEY. TRENTON 23^d March 1808. - - It appears by the records of this State, that Cap^t. John - Pike, in the Year 1666, was one of the Original purchasers - of & Settlers in Woodbridge--a magistrate & member of - Council under the Proprietory government.--I have been well - acquainted with Major Zebulon Pike, from my Childhood and - with Capt. John Brown (Lieuten^t. of Cavalry in the - revolutionary War) also a Native of Woodbridge--and whose - daughter Cap^t. ZM. Pike married; so that Cap^t Pike has - good reason to claim New-Jersey, not only as his Native - State, but as the residence of his family for near a - Century & a half. - - [Signed] Joseph Bloomfield - -The above certificate of Governor Bloomfield was inclosed by Pike to -the War Department with the following letter: - - WASHINGTON CITY 4 Apl 1808 - - SIR! - - Having received the enclosed document from Gov^r. - Bloomfield on the 27^th Ult^o.--who has particularly - interested himself in my promotion in the profession my - inclination has induced me to persue; I should not have - conceived it necessary to have laid it before you had I not - understood that you expressed a doubt as to the place of my - nativity; and whether, the state of Jersey, was that of - which I had a right to claim a Citizenship. I had not - conceived that it would be requisite for a native of - America who had served his country in Arms for Years (And - his forefathers before him) to establish the Locality of - his birth right but the prevoy prevoyance of my respected - friend His Excells Gov^r. Bloomfield has laid it in my - power to satisfy Gen^l. Dearborne on that Subject--I hope - I shall be pardoned for thus intrudeing myself on the time - of the Sec^y of War, and beg leave to offer assurances of - High respect & Esteem---- - - [Signed] Z. M. PIKE - - The Hon^l. - HEN^RY DEARBORNE. - Sec^y War Dep^t. - -Having thus proven that he was a citizen of New Jersey and of the -United States, the captain could feel that the coveted majority was -his. His commission as major of the 6th Infantry, of date May 3d, -1808, was acknowledged by him in the following letter, which I have -also chosen as the one to be reproduced in facsimile for the present -work: - - [Illustration: Facsimile of Letter] - - - WASHINGTON 5 May. 1808 - - SIR - - I have the Honor to acknowledge the receiipt of yours, - notifying me of my appointment to a Majority in the 6th - Regt. of Infantry in the Service of the United States. You - will please Sir! to receive this as my acceptance of the - same, and believe me to be - - With High Consideration - Your Ob^t. Ser^t. - [Signed] Z. M. PIKE - - The Hon^l. - HENRY DEARBORNE - Sec. War Dep. - -Among other things which had engaged Major Pike's attention was of -course his book--that story of his adventures which he had fondly -dreamed would immortalize his name, and respecting which his dream was -realized. He had already made such progress in his literary work that -he entered into official correspondence with the Secretary of War on -that subject. For instance: - - WASHINGTON, 14^th, April 1808. - - SIR:-- - - [A two-page letter concluding thus:] - - I shall in a day or two address an unofficial letter to the - President, requesting the favour of his advice, on the - Subject of the publication of my Voyages, on which, he - having read them, in Manuscript, will be a Competent - Judge--In this I shall speak as having the permission of - your Department for the publication.-- - - I am Sir, - with great Consideration, - Your obt. servt. - [Signed] Z. M. PIKE Captain. - -The inside history of books which the world will not let die is always -interesting. Here is a letter which speaks for itself: - - PHILADELPHIA 27 May. 1808. - - D^r. SIR! - - I have entered into an agreement with the firm of Conrad, - Lucas & C^o of this place to print and publish my Tours, - for which I allow them 20 pr. Cent on all the sales, and - pay besides the expences of printing &c.--This, with bad - debts and other Casualties will leave to myself but an - extreame small profit but as a soldiers views are more - Generally directed to fame than interest I hope that one - object will at least be accomplished.--The Work will not - exceed four dollars pr. Copy but the exact price we cannot - yet ascertain but hope Gen^l. Dearborne will give it all - the patronage which he may deem it entitled to; and Signify - to Mess^rs. Conrad and Lucas the number of Copies you - will take on ^ac of your Department. I have taken the - Liberty of encloseing under cover to you a letter addressed - to Nau [the draughtsman] which the Secy can read, and if he - does not wish to retain that man, in the Service of the - Goverment at the present time he will be good enough to - have the letter presented to him, and should the Goverment - wish his services in the Autumn or after he has done my - business he can return to Washington: But if he cannot be - spared by the Depart^t. the letter can be distroyed look - out for another person-- - - I beg leave to remind the Secy of War of the applications - which have been made in favour of my friend Doc^r. - Robinson--and hope he may yet be brought in for a Company - Vice some one who did not accept. - - Will Gen^l. Dearborne accept of my sincere acknowledgements - for the many favours he has conferred on me and believe me - to be with sincere respect and Esteem. - - His ob^t Ser^t - [Signed] Z M PIKE - -The War Department proved to be a liberal subscriber; for General -Dearborn indorsed the above in his own handwriting, "We will take 50 -copies." - -Matters thus being satisfactorily arranged for the publication of his -book, Major Pike seems to have returned at once, or very soon, to -military duty in his new rank--unless he went to see his wife on leave -of absence. We find him at Belle Fontaine in August of this year, as -evidenced by a letter I will transcribe in part, epitomizing the rest: - - CAMP BELLE FONTAIN-- - 18 Aug^t. 1808. - - SIR! - - Co^l. Hunt[M-14] deceased last night at half past 12 O. C. - after an illness of some weeks--He has left a distressed - widow and nine children unprovided for, and unprotected. - [The letter recommends military appointments for Col. - Hunt's two sons, George and Thomas; states that the command - of the district has devolved on Capt. James House of the - artillery; that Capt. Clemson's company of the 1st Infantry - had marched 10 days before for Fire Prairie, 25 miles up - the Missouri, and Capt. Pinckney's company was to march in - about 10 days for the Des Moines r., which would leave only - one company of artillery at Belle Fontaine; wishes to know - when he shall have definite orders to join his battalion in - New Jersey; expects to be at Pittsburgh next October; and - continues:] which is my anxious wish as from appearances we - shall again have to meet the European Invaders of our - country and if I know myself, I feel anxious to have the - honor of being amongst the first to rencounter their - boasted phalanx's--and to evence to them that the sons are - able to sustain the Independence handed down to us by our - Fathers - - [Signed] Z. M. PIKE, Maj^r. - 6^th Reg^t Inf - -Before the year closed Major Pike had come East, and found his hands -full, no doubt, in presenting to Congress the claims of himself and -his men to the generous consideration of that body, in the little -matter of an appropriation for their benefit. Those who have ever had -occasion to cool their heels in the halls of greatness, till the -mercury of their hopes congealed in the bulbs of their thoroughly -refrigerated boots, will best appreciate Pike's plight. The novelist's -realism of little Miss Flite in Chancery is out-realized in the Bleak -House on Capitol Hill, which William McGarrahan haunted for a -lifetime, and from which his injured ghost may not yet be freed. The -following letter was written when Pike had not lost hope: - - CAPITOL HILL, 2 Decem^r. 08. - - SIR - - I am informed by M^r. Montgomery that some members of the - committee (on the resolutions moved in favour of my late - exploreing parties) wish to have our members officially - notified; and the time we were employed in each Expedition, - which information you requested from General - Wilkinson--Inclosed you have a return of the party on each - tour and the commencement & expiration, but as all the - intervening time between my return from the source of the - Mississippi to our departure to the West we were employed - in prepareing for the second tour; I submit to your - Judgment whether the whole should not be engrossed--Also - there being a number of men still in new Spain the time - will necessarily be extended to them. [This matter makes - chap. vi., pp. 840-855, beyond.] - - The Committee meet to-morrow morning will Gen^l. Dearborne - have the goodness to furnish them with the necessary - information by that time--I would have waited on you - personally but am this day to set on General Court Martial - which convenes at 9 OC. A. M. - - I am Sir with High Respect - & Esteem your ob. ser^t - [Signed] Z M PIKE Maj^r. - 6 Reg^t Infy - - The Hon^l. - HENRY DEARBORNE - Sec W. Dep^t. - -Nothing came of this move. Pike was less fortunate than Lewis and -Clark. The difference did not all depend upon merit; simply, he had no -political "pull." His expeditions originated with General Wilkinson; -they were military movements with which the President had nothing to -do. Jealousy is the most nearly universal of human weaknesses, in high -as well as low places; besides which, Thomas Jefferson had his own -opinion of James Wilkinson. Whatever Major Pike may have thought of -it, he certainly lost little time in dancing attendance on Congress; -he was not built for a lobbyist. In Dec., 1808, we find him on -military duty at Fort McHenry, Md., as appears from various official -letters of his before me, but which need not be transcribed, as they -represent merely the routine correspondence of an army officer. At -some period in 1809 he was transferred to the West; and he was on duty -as military agent in New Orleans from Sept. 13th, 1809, to Mar. 10th, -1810, or later, by virtue of the following order: - - CAMP TERRE AU BOEUF, - Sep^t. 13^th. 1809-- - - SIR - - The Situation of the public service and the impossibility - of finding a suitable Character in private life to - undertake the temporary duties of Military Agent, Obliges - me to impose that Office on you.... [instructions follow.] - - [Signed] J. WILKINSON - - Maj^r. Z. M. PIKE - -During his tour of duty in New Orleans Major Pike became -lieutenant-colonel of the 4th Infantry Dec. 31st, 1809. One of -Lieutenant-Colonel Pike's letters shows that he did not forget -"Baroney," his quondam companion in arms on the Arkansaw: - - NEW ORLEANS - March 4^th. 1810 - - SIR - - Ensign Vasquez of the 2^d Infantry who was late Interpreter - on the tour of Discovery to the source of the Arkansaw &^c - presented himself to me at this place. After being three - years in the United States service without receiving any - settlement I made a statement of his accounts and gave him - an advance in Cash and a draft for the balance, in order - that if the form of settlement did not meet your - approbation they might be corrected. He has been absent - going on four years, and begs permission to return to St - Louis to see his Aged parents, which I hope will be granted - him by the Hon^l. Secretary of War. The French language is - his proper one; but he speaks Spanish very well, and is - beginning with the English, but very imperfectly as yet. - Under those circumstances I should conceive his services - would be most important on the Spanish Frontiers. As he is - about to embark for the City of Washington, I shall furnish - him with a duplicate of this letter, and remain Sir, with - - the highest Respect & Esteem - Your Obdt. Servt. - Z. M. PIKE - - The Hon^l WILLIAM EUSTIS} - Secretary War Department} - -There is little to mark Lieutenant-Colonel Pike's career in 1810-11, -or until the breaking out of the war of 1812. From many letters I have -seen by which he can be traced in these years, uneventful for him, I -select one which shows the workings of his mind at this time, as well -as his readiness to ventilate the views which he entertained. -Characters such as his have visions which they may freely express -without carrying conviction to others. The following communication was -received at the War Department from Mississippi Territory: - - CANTONMENT, WASHINGTON June 10, 10 - - SIR - - Although, it may be deemed unmilitary in me (a Subordinate - in Command) to address myself immediately to the War - Department yet the purport of this Communication being - principally of a private nature, I presume it will not, be - deemed a great deviation from propriety.--I entered the - Army at the early age of fifteen, and have continued to - pursue my profession with enthusiasm to the present time a - period upwards of Sixteen years during which I have had - every practical experience which the times offered of - becoming a Soldier.--Together with a Careful perusal of - numerous Millitary authors in the French & English - languages.--But hapily for my Country her Councils have - been guided by Such Judicious Measures; That the - opportunity which I have so long panted for, of Calling - into Action, The Experience I possess, has never - Occured.--Knowing that it must be the interest of the U.S - to keep at peace with the world, and despairing of ever - being Call^d Into actual service I should some time since - have resign^d the sword and became a farmer, (The only - proffession I can acquire) only for the unsettled state of - our foreign affairs.--Fortune has at length placed me - (Through the instrumentality of General Hampton) at the - Head of the Compleatest body of Infantry in the US.--If - this Regiment should be Consolidated and the Co^l. not - join, I should be very happy to retain the Command and - remain in this quarter.--If not I would hope to be ordered - to join my Regiment in New England, a quarter of the Union - I should be gratify^d. in spending some time in.--Should I - remain here and be permitted to introduce the modern - Discipline--into the Corps I would pledge my existance it - would be equal to any in the U S. in one year. This is a - subject of much diversity of Oppinion, as many gentlemen - wish to Confine us to Stuben.[M-15]--The value of whose - system no man appreciates more justly than myself. But the - Battle of Jena but too fatally evinced to the Prusian - Monarch that the mordern improvements in the Art of War had - been such, as entirely to overturn the principles of - manourvres of the Malboroughs--Eugenes and Fredericks. The - Millitary Establishment of the United States can only be - viewed as the nuclues of an Army in Case of War, from - whence Could be drawn Staff Officers well versed in tactics - and police--In the foregoing observations I mean to cast no - reflections on my superior officers;--but Conceive at the - same time the Ideas may not be deemed obtrusive On the - Hon^l Secty of War.--Whilst makeing this unofficial - Communication I think it my duty to intimate the situation - in which the neighbouring province of Florida now stands. - The Goverment is in a Compleat state of Lethargie.--The - Citizens are forrming committees and appear to be disposed - to offer their allegiance to the U S. when if it should be - refused, they will Make it a tender to Great Britain this - would have been done some time since had they not feared - the Isle of Cuba.--That Cuba is competant to keep them in - Subjection by force is extremely doubtful; But what line of - Conduct the U. S will persue on the Occasion is an - important question.--our views should only be turned to the - effect our interferance would have abroad for we have - disposible force in this territory & Orleans when joined to - the Malcontents amply sufficient to secure possession of - the province; But with respect to the effect this would - have on Mexico is seriously to be taken into concideration - Mexico including all the possessions of Spain North of - Terra Firma [Tierra Firme], must constitute ere long a - great and independant power of at least seven millions of - souls, with more of the precious metals than any other - nation in the world will it not be an object of the first - Magnitude for the U S to secure the trade, friendship and - alliance of this people. They never will become a maratime - or manufactoring nation they are at present pastorial and - On trial will prove Warlike. I hesitate not to say they Can - pour forth thousans of Calvary surpass'd by none in the - World. To this power We might become the Carryers and - Manifactories, for which no Nation Could vie with us; which - would be sources of immence Wealth.--And an Augmentation of - our power.--To this very important object I humby Conceive - a too early attention Cannot be paid--On this subject I - have probaly intruded my oppinion on Mr. Eustis, but I - could not forbear giveing those intimations which I - conceived might be beneficial to my Country.--I had a - brother in the Millitary Academy from whom I have not heard - for some time should he merit the favour of his - Country;--or if his Fathers Thirty Years service or my own - claim some small indulgence for him, I hope he may be - appointed an Ensign of Infantry and sufferd to join the - Regiment to which I may be attached; the latter part of - this request is not made from a desire that I may have it - in my power to shew him any favour;--far from it,--but - that, I may have him near me to Restrain the Disposition - which all youths evince for irregularities. And point out - to him the paths of propriety and Honor, also that he may - benefit [by] the few years he can appropriate to study by - the use of a variety of Millitary Authors I have - collected.--Such are my reasons for wishing my brother with - me. I hope this may meet the approbation of the Hon^be - Secr^ty.--And this letter may be attributed to its true - motives, and that the Honble Secty may beleive me as I am - from Duty and inclination Sincerely devoted to my Country - and his obedt - - Hble Sert-- - [Signed] Z M PIKE - - The Hon^l. - WM. EUSTIS - Secy War Dep^t-- - -Lieutenant-Colonel Pike's "despair of ever being called into service" -was of short duration. He was soon to be called upon to lay down his -life for his country on the battlefield. From April 3d, 1812, to July -3d of that year he had been deputy quartermaster-general. He was -promoted to the colonelcy of the 15th Infantry July 6th, 1812. The war -was upon us. Colonel Pike's qualifications for the command of a -regiment may be best estimated in the terms of his military -biographer, General Whiting, who says, pp. 309-311: - - Probably no officer in the army, at that time, was held in - higher estimation. This was not because he had seen much - actual service, for he had hardly been in the presence of - the enemy before the day on which he fell. It was on the - promise, rather than the fulfilment, that the public mind - rested his character for boldness and enterprise; and his - fitness to direct and control men had been determined, to - an extent that warranted much confidence, by his - expeditions in the north-west and the south-west. He had - there given such proofs of those qualities, as established - a reputation in advance. He had exhibited, moreover, an - indefatigable activity in the drill of his regiment, - requiring of all under his command an unwearied devotion to - duty, and an exact and prompt obedience to orders. - - His regiment became an example of zeal, discipline, and - aptitude in movements; his men had an unbounded belief in - his capacity, and his officers looked up to him with - unusual respect and affection. He inspired that confidence - in all under his orders, which is almost a certain evidence - that it is merited. - - At the opening of the war of 1812, we were almost without - any fixed guides in tactics and discipline. The standard of - the latter part of the revolution, and of subsequent times, - "Old Steuben," which had been approved by Washington, and - had led to some of the best triumphs of the closing years - of that glorious period, had become obsolete, even before - any substitute was provided. Hence, when new regiments came - into service by scores in 1812, nothing was prescribed for - regulation or for drill. The old regiments had their forms - and customs, which preserved in them the aspect of - regulars. But even these presented no uniform example. Some - adopted the "nineteen manoeuvres" of the English; others, - the ninety-and-nine manoeuvres of the French; while a few - adhered to old Dundas; and fewer still to older Steuben. - - Nothing was laid down by the proper authority; therefore - all manner of things were taken up without any authority at - all. Amid this confusion, or wide latitude of choice, - General Pike, though brought up in the old school, was - often tempted, by his ambitious desire for improvement, to - run into novelties. With a prescribed rule, he would have - been the most steady and uncompromising observer of it. - But, in such a competition for beneficial change, he most - naturally believed himself as capable as others of changing - for the better. - - In this spirit of innovation, the 15th regiment underwent - many changes, and exhibited, even in times when novelties - and singularities were no rarities, perhaps the widest - departure from common standards of any regiment in service. - Adopting the French system of forming in three ranks, his - third rank was armed in a manner peculiar to itself, having - short guns, being the ordinary musket cut off some inches, - and long pikes. It was said, by the wags of the day, that - his own name suggested the manner, and the regiment was - often called "Pike's regiment of pikes." - -These pikes presented a formidable appearance on drill and dress -parade, when the men could display their tactics with the precision of -automata. They were even retained in the assault of Fort York. But at -the first engagement after the fall of General Pike, the men threw -them away, together with the cut-off pieces, and picked up English -muskets to fight with. The experiment of putting his regiment on -snow-shoes which Pike tried--doubtless remembering their -serviceability to himself and his company on the upper Mississippi in -the winter of 1805-6--does not seem to have proven any more lasting or -decided a success. - -Colonel Pike's sword was stronger than his pen, as we know; but he -could sharpen either weapon on occasion, as the following spirited -repulse of a newspaper attack on his regiment will show:[M-16] - - CAMP NEAR PLATTSBURG [N. Y.], _Oct. 12th, 1812_. - - SIR: - - However incompatible it may be with the character and - profession of a soldier, to enter into the party politics - of the day, yet when the honor of the government, the corps - he commands, and his personal fame are wantonly attacked, - and attempted to be sacrificed to satiate the malignant - venom of party purposes, it becomes his duty as a man, a - patriot, to come forward and boldly contradict the base - calumniator. The following piece "from the Connecticut - Herald" and republished in the New York Herald of October - 3d, is not only calculated to bring disrepute on the - government, but to hold up our army as a mob wanting in - discipline as well as in patriotism. The piece alluded to - is as follows, viz.: - - "The multiplied proof of folly, or of madness, or some - worse cause, that have driven the nation into a ruinous, - offensive war, are accumulating with every day's - experience. Barely to enumerate the evidence would occupy - columns. Two or three facts of recent occurrence, which - have come to my knowledge, are in point and worthy of - record. It is then a fact (for I state it on the best - authority) that either the national treasury is so - miserably empty, or the proper department so deficient in - duty, that the army under General Dearborn, which has so - long been idling away their time near Albany, was not only - unpaid, but unprovided with the common necessaries of a - camp; and when, a few days since, a part of these troops - were ordered to the frontiers, one whole regiment (Colonel - Pike's) absolutely refused, and deliberately stacked their - arms, declaring they would not move until paid. In this - refusal they were justified by their colonel, and an old - soldier, who admitted they ought not to march unless the - government would first pay the arrears due them. It - fortunately happened that Mr. Secretary Gallatin was then - at Albany, and on learning the state of affairs at the - encampment, he borrowed $20,000 from one of the banks on - his private credit, by which means the troops were paid, - and cheerfully followed their commander." - - In contradiction to this statement it will be sufficient to - give the following facts: - - [Firstly]--That the regimental paymaster had in his hands - funds to pay the whole regiment up to the 31st. And [that] - within three days of the period when the troops moved, - three companies were paid previous to the march and the - balance so soon as the troops halted a sufficient time to - give the officers an opportunity to adjust the rolls and - prepare the accounts of the recruits. - - Secondly--That those funds were received by the regimental - paymaster from the district paymaster, Mr. Eakins, who was - then at Albany, and not from Mr. Gallatin whom, it is - believed, did not arrive till after the regiment moved from - Greenbush. - - These facts can be corroborated by every officer of the - 15th Infantry, who one and all deem the paragraph published - in the Herald a base calumny, a direct attack on their - honor as soldiers, and declare that the author, whoever he - may be, has asserted gross untruths. As for myself, I have - had the honor to serve in the army from the rank of - volunteer to the station I now hold, during the - Administration of Gen. Washington, Mr. Adams, Mr. - Jefferson, and Mr. Madison, and can affirm that I have - known some troops under the three first to have been upward - of a year without a payment, and under the latter for eight - months. This was owing to the dispersed state of our troops - on the western frontiers. But never did I hear of a corps - shewing a disposition to refuse to do their duty, because - they had not received their pay; nor do I believe the - American army has been disgraced by an instance of the kind - since the Revolutionary War. But ask any man of - consideration, what time it requires to organize an army, - or a corps of new recruits--if, owing to the want of a - knowledge of the officers to forms of returns, accounts, - etc., it will not be some time before a new corps can be as - well equipt, or appear as much like soldiers, as an old - one? Every soldier will reply that it will require two - years at least to teach both officers and men to reap the - same benefit from the same supplies as old soldiers. And - although at this time the 15th regiment has been as - regularly supplied as any other corps with clothing, pay, - arms, and accoutrements, even to watch coats to protect the - centinel against the winter storms, yet were there an old - regiment laying by their side, who had received the same - supplies, they would most indubitably be better equipped - and make themselves more comfortable, having the saving of - two or more years' supplies on hand. But whether ill or - well supplied, the soldiers and officers have too just a - sense of the duty they owe their country and their own - honor, ever to refuse to march against the enemy. And the - colonel begs leave to assure the author of the above - paragraph, that he hopes he will forbear any future attempt - to injure his reputation by praising an action which, if - true, must have forever tarnished the small claim he now - has to a military character. - - [Signed] Z. M. PIKE, - _Colonel 15th U. S. Infantry_. - -Colonel Pike seldom had occasion to make proclamations of a -politico-military character. But one such which he issued while he was -in command of a district may be here cited. It is not dated, in the -printed form before me, but was no doubt given out in Jan., 1813, as -it appears in Niles' Register for the week ending Jan. 30th, III. No. -22, p. 344: - - _To all whom it may concern._ The state of hostility which - exists between the Kingdom of Great Britain and the United - States makes it necessary that the intercourse which may - take place between this country and the adjacent province - of Canada should be regulated on the principles which - govern belligerent nations. I have had it in charge from - the commanding general, Chandler [John Chandler, of New - Hampshire, d. 1841] that no person should be permitted to - pass in or out of Canada without his permission, or, in his - absence, the permission of the commandant of the district - of Champlain. This order has been communicated to the - commanding officer on the lines, and will be strenuously - enforced. - - Some members of the community have been found so void of - all sense of honor, love of country, or any other principle - which has governed the virtuous of all nations and ages, as - to hold correspondence with and give intelligence to our - enemies. It therefore becomes my duty to put the laws in - full force. The two following sections of the rules and - articles of war, which are equally binding on the citizen - and the soldier, are published for the information of the - public, that no one may plead ignorance, as from this time - henceforward they shall be enforced with the greatest - severity. - - "Art. 56. Whosoever shall relieve the enemy with money, - victuals, or ammunition, or shall knowingly harbor or - protect an enemy shall suffer DEATH, or such other - punishment as shall be ordered by the sentence of a - court-martial. - - "Art. 57. Whosoever shall be convicted of holding - correspondence with, or giving intelligence to, the enemy, - either directly or indirectly, shall suffer DEATH, or such - other punishment as shall be ordered by the sentence of a - court-martial." - - [Signed] _Z. M. Pike, Col. 15th Regt. Inf. - Commanding West Lake Champlain_. - -During the winter of 1812-13, when the 15th regiment was stationed on -the northern frontier, in view of the operations to be undertaken -against the posts of the enemy on the lakes, great confidence in this -well-disciplined and zealous body of troops was felt by General Henry -Dearborn, formerly secretary of war, and then the senior major-general -of the army, in immediate command. As we have just seen, General Pike -was in charge of a military district on Lake Champlain; his command -was then of about 2,500 men. Various desultory demonstrations against -the enemy had proved futile, in some cases fatuous and disgraceful. -The War Department determined upon a more consistent and apparently -feasible plan of concerted operations, which had in view the reduction -of all the British posts on the St. Lawrence river and Lake Ontario. -The capture of Kingston (site of old Fort Frontenac) was a measure of -first importance. The garrison was supposed to be small, and lulled in -a sense of security, owing to the rigors of the season and the -numerical insignificance of our troops at Sackett's Harbor; nor was -Kingston likely to be re-enforced from below, as the British forces -were menaced on the Lower St. Lawrence by Pike's troops on Lake -Champlain. It was proposed to transport these in sleighs to the foot -of Lake Ontario with such promptitude that the movement could not be -counteracted. General Dearborn also proposed to concentrate other -forces at Sackett's Harbor, to which place his headquarters at Albany -were to be moved at once. This was in Feb., 1813. But while these -measures were pending, Sir George Prevost, Governor-General of the -Canadas, prorogued the Parliament then in session, and moved to -Kingston with re-enforcements for that place. According to General -Dearborn's dispatches of Mar. 3d from Sackett's Harbor, this -demonstration seemed so alarming that operations against Kingston were -suspended in favor of others which had regard to the safety of -Sackett's Harbor; though it appears in General Armstrong's History of -the War that Sir George Prevost had executed a clever ruse with few -troops, and "countervailed his antagonist only by dexterous and -well-timed reports," Whiting's Pike, p. 290 _seq._ - -The proposed attack on Kingston over the ice having been abandoned, -the Secretary of War's alternative plan of reducing in succession the -several posts on and about Lake Ontario engaged General Dearborn's -attention. The Secretary indicated the order in which the successive -attacks were to be made, viz.: Kingston and York on Lake Ontario; -George and Erie on the Niagara river. But this sequence was not -strictly regarded by General Dearborn, who determined to attack -Kingston last instead of first; considering the rotation of the -assaults to be of minor consequence, in view of the main features of a -campaign which had for its object the reduction of all the posts named -in the order of the Secretary. The general commanding, on consultation -with Commodore Isaac Chauncey, concluded to make York the initial -point of attack; George to come next, and then Kingston. - - The prospect held out by this plan of the campaign was - certainly very promising. It had all such probabilities in - its favor as could be commanded by those who control only - one side of the current of events. The force that could and - would be brought to bear on each point of attack was ample, - and left as little to hazard as prudence would suggest. The - plan was founded on the best principles of strategy, and - highly creditable to the generalship which dictated it. Had - it been carried out with the spirit and perseverance with - which it was commenced, there was every reasonable prospect - of a successful issue. The causes of its failure were - obvious: delays, without proper objects, after the capture - of Fort George; and a change of command, wholly unnecessary - and inexpedient, which led to the waste of nearly an entire - season of inactivity (Whiting, p. 297). - -As noted by this military critic and historian, General Dearborn was -relieved from command early in July, 1813, his successor being -enjoined to rest on his arms, except in the event of certain -improbable contingencies which never arose, until the arrival of -General Wilkinson, who did not reach Fort George until September, or -resume operations until Oct. 1st; so that "nearly three months were -utterly wasted by a body of 4,000 troops." - -But I have digressed from the attack on Fort York, with which alone -are we here concerned. - -In the latter part of April, 1813, the navigation of Lake Ontario was -open, and no molestation was apprehended, as it was known that Sir -James Yeo's fleet was not operative. Agreeably with the plan of the -campaign above briefly noted, therefore, General Dearborn embarked on -board Commodore Chauncey's fleet, with about 1,700 troops, under the -immediate command of Brigadier-General Pike, Apr. 25th. On the morning -of the 27th the fleet reached York harbor, where it was intended to -debark for the assault on Fort York. This military post defended the -place which had been known as Toronto till 1793, and was then called -York till 1834, when it resumed its aboriginal name. - - * * * * * - -The true signification of the Iroquois word which has settled in the -form _Toronto_, after long fluctuation of all its vowels, is -uncertain, or at any rate, is still questioned. It is now most -frequently translated "trees in the water," or by some equivalent -phrase, with reference to the formerly wooded, long, low spit of land -which still encompasses the harbor of Ontario's metropolis. -Irrespective of its etymology, the various connotations of _Toronto_ -in successive historical periods are to be carefully discriminated. If -we turn to old maps, we see that the present Georgian bay of Lake -Huron was Toronto bay; the present Lake Simcoe was Toronto lake; -present Severn river and the Humber were each of them Toronto river. -In the seventeenth century, Toronto was the official designation of a -region between Lake Simcoe and the Georgian bay--the country of the -Hurons, on the large peninsula which intervenes between Lake Huron and -Lake Ontario. The comparatively narrow neck of this peninsula offered, -by means of Humber river and certain portages, a convenient way to -pass between these two great lakes--it was, in fact, an Indian -thoroughfare. The mouth of the Humber consequently became an Indian -rendezvous, and the name of the whole region thus became best known in -connection with the locality of the present city. As the southern -terminus of this highway, on Lake Ontario, offered an eligible site -for a trading-post, advantage was taken of such an opportunity to cut -off trade from Chouagen (Oswego) by planting the original -establishment of the Whites near the mouth of the Humber. Such was the -French Fort Rouillé, built in 1749, and named in compliment to Antoine -Louis Rouillé, Comte de Jouy, then colonial minister. This post was -destroyed in 1756, to prevent it from falling into the hands of the -English. It became better known as Fort Toronto than it had been by -its proper French name, and later on passed into history as Old Fort -Toronto, in distinction from the two other establishments to which the -name was successively bequeathed. Fort Rouillé, by whatever name -called, was never lost sight of entirely. Lossing's Field Book of the -War of 1812, New York, 1868, p. 593, has a cut which shows its -appearance when it had been to some extent renovated in 1812-13. The -exact site is now marked by a monument, lying alongside which is an -inscribed stone. These memorials are pointed out to visitors, on the -lake shore, in the southwest corner of the present Exposition grounds, -on the western side of the city of Toronto. After the abandonment of -old Fort Rouillé the region round about remained for nearly half a -century a wild whose solitude may have been only relieved by the -lodges of a few Misisagas--those Indians of Ojibwa affinities who had -become members of the Iroquois confederation in 1746, three years -before the fort was built. In 1791, Upper and Lower Canada were -instituted by parliamentary measures which Pitt guided to success; the -latter was practically the province of Quebec; the former became the -province of Ontario, the refuge and future home of the United Empire -Loyalists. For the capital of Ontario, a site was to be chosen in then -unbroken wilds. The first provincial Parliament of the new province of -Upper Canada was held in May, 1793, at Newark, the present town of -Niagara, where the river of that name enters Lake Ontario. But this -place was ineligible; the river became an international boundary; the -guns of the United States Fort Niagara could be trained upon Newark; -and in August of the same year the seat of government of the new -province was transferred to the new site which had been surveyed to -that end by Bouchette, and selected for the purpose by General and -Governor John Graves Simcoe (b. Feb. 25th, 1752, d. Oct. 6th, 1806). -To this place Simcoe gave the name of York, after the duke, second son -of George III. The evolution of this embryo of future greatness was -slow; for many years "Little York," or "Muddy York," as it was styled -by some in derision, had but a few hundred inhabitants; its -maintenance was mainly due to the United Loyalists already mentioned. -In April, 1813, the works by which York was defended, and which -General Pike carried by assault, were those called Fort York; later -they were known as Fort Toronto, or "the Fort at Toronto." The town -which Simcoe had christened York did not resume the original -designation of the locality till 1834, when it was incorporated as the -city of Toronto. - -This magnificent metropolis, which so admirably illustrates the effect -of American momentum upon English stability, is situated upon the -north side of Lake Ontario, 39 miles northeast of Hamilton (which -occupies the _fond du lac_) and 310 miles west-southwest of Montreal; -at the observatory the position is calculated to be in latitude 43° -39' 35" N. and longitude 79° 23' 39" W. of the Greenwich meridian. -The city extends westward from the vicinity of the Don in the -direction of the Humber, across the small stream known as Garrison -creek. It thus has several miles of lake front on the south, at the -bay or harbor of Toronto, partly shut off from the lake by low land -which was once a peninsula, and some small islands, with an entrance -only from the west; but the peninsula has been artificially cut off -from the mainland. At its end stood a blockhouse, in a position known -as Gibraltar point; another blockhouse stood at the mouth of the Don, -on the left or east bank of that river. One now drives a few blocks -from any hotel in the heart of the city to "old" Fort York, at present -dismantled, but very much in evidence still of the scene of General -Pike's victory and mortal hurt. The visitor will be warned off the -premises by the functionary who has these _disjecta membra_ in charge, -as Lossing had been before I was; but may nevertheless keep on the -main street or road through the frowning earthworks, and will -presently find himself on Garrison Common. This is the large level -piece of ground, the middle of the lake front of which is occupied by -the present barracks, or "new fort." At points included within the -present garrison and parade ground were the positions of two outer -defenses of old Fort York, respectively called at that time the -Western and the Half Moon battery; these were the first and second -obstacles for Pike to surmount in advancing upon the main defenses of -York. Crossing Garrison Common in a few minutes we enter the -Exposition grounds, at the further corner of which, to the left, and -directly upon the lake shore, stand the Rouillé monument and inscribed -cairn already mentioned, together with a historical cabin; a pier juts -into the lake close by these objects. The direct distance between the -Rouillé monument and old Fort York is about 6,000 feet--little over a -mile by the road; the present barracks are nearly midway between those -two places. Old Fort York occupies a position about the mouth of -Garrison creek, between Front Street and the water's edge, at the foot -of Tecumseh Street, and close to Queen's Wharf, in the midst of -railroad tracks, freight houses, and depots. The magazine, which was -exploded at the cost of many American and some British lives, stood in -a depression at or near the mouth of the creek, with its top nearly on -a level with higher ground on either hand; it is said that its -existence was not suspected by the enemy. It was a comparatively large -structure of its kind, solidly built of heavy stone masonry, and -contained a great quantity of powder, shot, and shell. All the -positions here in mention may be inspected in a leisurely drive of an -hour. Those who have not been over the ground, or have not a city map -at hand, will be helped to a clear understanding of the situation by -the diagram given in Lossing, p. 590; together with the sketches there -given of York, of Fort York, of the magazine which was blown up by -General Sheaffe's order, and of the Western battery whose explosion -was accidental. Of the latter, the picture represents the remains as -they were in 1860. - -The conflicting accounts of uninformed, unconsciously biased, or -willfully mendacious writers have shrouded in obscurity the clear and -intelligible relation which can be given of the battle of York. -Especially have the two explosions which occurred during the assault -been confounded and falsified in history. It is necessary, at the -outset, to dissociate in mind these two catastrophes, namely: (1) The -accidental explosion of a portable magazine at the Western battery -during the advance of the Americans upon the main works. (2) The -intentional explosion of the fixed magazine during the retreat of the -British from the main works. The latter was somewhat premature, owing -to overmuch zeal of the soldier who had been ordered to fire the -train; but it was premeditated. - -A diligent comparison of many different descriptions of the battle of -York has satisfied me that the account in Whiting, Pike's most formal -biographer, leaves much to be desired, and that Lossing's relation is -decidedly preferable in most particulars. The latter gives, on the -whole, the clearest and truest picture which any modern historian has -painted. Lossing consulted the official reports of the commanders, -both British and American; the accounts given by Thompson, Perkins, -James, Auchinleck, Armstrong, Christy, Ingersoll, and others; -Whiting's Biography of Pike; Hough's County histories; Roger's -Canadian History; Smith's Canada; Cooper's Naval History; Niles' -Register; the Portfolio; the Analectic Magazine; he had some -manuscripts of actors in the scene, besides various verbal relations; -and he went over the ground in person. In the following sketch I shall -lean more heavily upon Lossing than upon Whiting; but for numerous -particulars shall refer back of both to contemporaneous records and -official reports, on both sides. I shall also adduce a certain obscure -author, P. Finan, who is among those who witnessed the fight, and who -describes what he saw in his little-known Journal of a Voyage to -Quebec in the Year 1825, with Recollections of Canada during the late -American War in the Years 1812-13, Newry, printed by Alexander -Peacock, 1828. H. A. Fay's Collection of Official Documents, etc., 1 -vol., 8vo, New York, 1817, gives General Dearborn's and Commodore -Chauncey's reports to the Secretary of War and of the Navy, -respectively, and the terms of the capitulation after the capture. -Brannan's Official Letters, etc., 1 vol., 8vo, Washington, 1823, gives -in full Pike's vigorous and rigorous brigade order, pp. 144-146; the -reports said of Dearborn and of Chauncey; and various other items. -These and many other materials are also contained in earlier form in -Niles' Weekly Register, IV. Mar.-Sept., 1813. What here follows is -derived mainly from the sources I have thus indicated, but also -includes a certified copy of the most important one of the original -Sheaffe documents in the Archives of Ontario at Ottawa. - -General Pike's brigade order for the attack on York appears as follows -in Niles' Register, IV. pp. 229, 230: - - SACKETT'S HARBOR, April 25, 1813. - - BRIGADE ORDER. When the debarkation shall take place on the - enemy's shore, Major Forsyth's light troops, formed in four - platoons, shall be first landed. They will advance a small - distance from the shore, and form the chain to cover the - landing of the troops. They will not fire unless they - discover the approach of a body of the enemy, but will make - prisoners of every person who may be passing, and send them - to the general. They will be followed by the regimental - platoons of the first brigade, with two pieces of Brooks' - artillery, one on the right and one on the left flank, - covered by their musketry, and the small detachments of - riflemen of the 15th and 16th Infantry. Then will be landed - the three platoons of the reserve of the first brigade, - under Major Swan.[M-17] Then Major Eustis, with his train of - artillery, covered by his own musketry. Then Colonel - M'Clure's volunteers, in four platoons, followed by the - 21st regiment, in six platoons. When the troops shall move - in column, either to meet the enemy or take a position, it - will be in the following order, viz.: First, Forsyth's - riflemen, with proper front and flank guards; the regiments - of the first brigade, with their pieces; then three - platoons of reserve; Major Eustis' train of artillery; - volunteer corps; 21st regiment; each corps sending out - proper flank guards. When the enemy shall be discovered in - front, the riflemen will form the chain, and maintain their - ground until they have the signal (the preparative) or - receive orders to retire, at which they will retreat with - the greatest velocity, and form equally on the two flanks - of the regiments of the first brigade, and then renew their - fire. The three reserve platoons of this line under the - orders of Major Swan, 100 yards in the rear of the colors, - ready to support any part which may show an unsteady - countenance. Major Eustis and his train will form in the - rear of this reserve, ready to act where circumstances may - dictate. - - The second line will be composed of the 21st Infantry in - six platoons, flanked by Colonel M'Clure's volunteers, - equally divided as light troops. The whole under the orders - of Colonel Ripley.[M-18] - - It is expected that every corps will be mindful of the - honor of the American arms, and the disgraces which have - recently tarnished our arms; and endeavor, by a cool and - determined discharge of their duty, to support the one and - wipe off the other. The riflemen in front will maintain - their ground at all hazards, until ordered to retire, as - will every corps of the army. With an assurance of being - duly supported, should the commanding general find it - prudent to withdraw the front line, he will give orders to - retire by the heads of platoons, covered by the riflemen; - and the second line will advance by the heads of platoons, - pass the intervals, and form the line, call in the light - troops, and renew the action. But the general may find it - proper to bring up the second line on one or both flanks, - to charge in columns, or perform a variety of manoeuvres - which it would be impossible to foresee. But as a general - rule, whatever may be the directions of lines at the - commencement of the action, the corps will form as before - directed. If they then advance in line, it may be in - parallel eschelons of platoons, or otherwise, as the ground - or circumstances may dictate. - - No man will load until ordered, except the light troops in - front until within a short distance of the enemy, and then - charge bayonets; thus letting the enemy see that we can - meet them in their own weapons. Any man firing or quitting - his post without orders, must be put to instant death, as - an example may be necessary. Platoon officers will pay the - greatest attention to the coolness and aim of their men in - the fire; their regularity and dressing in the charge. - Courage and bravery in the field do not more distinguish - the soldier than humanity after victory; and whatever - examples the savage allies of our enemies may have given - us, the general confidently hopes that the blood of an - unresisting or yielding enemy will never stain the weapons - of the soldiers of his column. - - The unoffending citizens of Canada are many of them our own - countrymen, and the poor Canadians have been forced into - the war. Their property must therefore be held sacred, and - any soldier who shall so far neglect the honor of his - profession as to be guilty of plundering the inhabitants, - shall, if convicted, be punished with death. But the - commanding general assures the troops that, should they - capture a large quantity of public stores, he will use his - best endeavors to procure them a reward from his - government. - - This order shall be read at the head of each corps and - every field officer shall carry a copy, in order that he - may at any moment refer to it; and give explanations to his - subordinates. - - All those found in arms in the enemy's country, shall be - treated as enemies; but those who are peaceably following - the pursuits of their various avocations, friends--and - their property respected. - - By order of Brigadier-general Z. M. PIKE. - - CHARLES G. JONES,[M-19] - Assistant aid-de-camp. - -Of quite another character than the foregoing order is the next word -which reaches us from General Pike--probably from the last letter he -ever wrote. It is always the soldier, but now the son and not the -officer who speaks, in this letter addressed to his father. The -extract is undated and unsigned, but was penned at Brownsville, near -Sackett's Harbor, on the day before the expedition sailed from the -latter place. I cite from Niles' Register of Saturday, July 10th, -1813, p. 304, these affecting passages: - -"I embark to-morrow in the fleet at Sackett's Harbor, at the head of a -column of 1,500 choice troops, on a secret expedition. If success -attends my steps, honor and glory await my name--if defeat, still -shall it be said we died like brave men, and conferred honor, even in -death, on the AMERICAN NAME. - -"Should I be the happy mortal destined to turn the scale of war, will -you not rejoice, O my father? May Heaven be propitious, and smile on -the cause of my country. But if we are destined to fall, may my fall -be like Wolfe's--to sleep in the arms of victory." - -His aspiration was answered, for he turned the scale of war; his dream -of glory came true, for he fell asleep, like Wolfe, in the arms of -victory! - -Commodore Isaac Chauncey's fleet, which conveyed the American troops -from Sackett's Harbor to York, consisted of 14 vessels: the Madison, -flagship; Oneida, Fair American, Hamilton, Governor Tompkins, -Conquest, Asp, Pert, Julia, Growler, Ontario, Scourge, Lady of the -Lake, and the transport Raven. - -On that fateful 27th of April, 1813, about seven o'clock in the -morning, when this fleet had reached York, the intention was to land -the troops at old Fort Rouillé, whence the advance to the assault of -Fort York would have been only about a mile, along the lake front, -over the level ground of present Garrison Common. But a strong east -wind drove the boats "a considerable distance" leeward, to some wooded -point in the direction of the Humber. Exactly how far this was does -not appear; but there is evidence that it was not more than some -fraction of a mile--probably not as far west of Fort Rouillé as the -latter was west of Fort York. General Dearborn says, "about a mile and -a half" from Fort York, which would be about half a mile west of Fort -Rouillé; and the place called Grenadier Point has been named in this -connection. Doubtless the whole of the troops were not landed at -precisely the same spot. General Dearborn remained with the fleet, -which was to bombard York after landing the troops under the command -of General Pike. The former's official report to Hon. John Armstrong, -Secretary of War, dated Headquarters, York, Upper Canada, Apr. 28th, -1813, includes this passage (Brannan, p. 149): - - I had been induced to confide the immediate command of the - troops in action to General Pike, from a conviction that he - fully expected it, and would be much mortified at being - deprived of the honor, which he highly appreciated. - -As rendered in Niles' Register, IV. p. 179, it is to the same effect, -but somewhat differently worded: - - To the general I had been induced to confide the immediate - attack, from a knowledge that it was his wish and that he - would have been mortified had it not been given to him. - -We will hear from Pike himself once more before he falls. It is before -any landing has been effected. Forsyth's boats are nearing the shore; -they are fired upon from the woods, but have not yet answered a shot. -Pike is standing on the deck of the flagship, surrounded by his staff, -straining his eager eyes impatiently at the boats, which he sees have -been driven beyond the intended point of debarkation. "'By God! I -can't stay here any longer!' and addressing himself to his -staff--'Come, jump into the boat!' which we immediately did, the -commodore having reserved a boat specially for him and his suite; the -little coxswain was ordered immediately to steer for the middle of the -fray, and the balls whistled gloriously around; probably their number -was owing to seeing so many officers in one boat; but we laughed at -their clumsy efforts as we pressed forward with well-pulled oars."[M-20] - -The first troops which effected a landing were Forsyth's[M-21] Rifles, -conveyed in two boats. Their debarkation was promptly resisted by a -choice body of light troops from Fort York, consisting of a company of -Glengary Fencibles, with some Indians, under Major Givens. From an -advantageous position in the woods which had been taken up, the enemy -opened a galling fire as our troops left the boats. Concerning this -opening engagement I cite Whiting, pp. 300-303: - - The riflemen were formed on the bank as promptly as - possible, when the boats returned to the fleet for other - troops. In the meantime, this gallant little band, assisted - by some few other troops that were thrown on shore in other - boats, sustained the brunt of the combat. The numbers in - this initial struggle were about equal, and it became a - fair and close fight, to be turned either way as - re-enforcements should happen to arrive. The British light - troops were choice men, and commanded by a brave officer. - - Forsyth's men were undisciplined, but had seen some - desultory service on the Ogdensburg frontier, and had - unbounded confidence in their leader, who was rather an - extraordinary man, and regarded as a most promising - partisan officer. He had peculiar notions as to the manner - of training men. The common rules of discipline were looked - upon by him with the utmost contempt. All he seemed to - require of those under him was, that they should be good - marksmen, and ready to follow him.... - - At the time of this expedition, Major Forsyth was a fat - man, probably weighing some 200 pounds. The uniform of his - men was green, and, at the time he landed, he wore a - broad-skirted coat of that color, which was unbuttoned and - thrown back, displaying a white vest spread over his ample - chest, that afforded a mark for an enemy equal to the - chalked circle of a common infantry target. He had on his - head a broad-brimmed black hat. Soon after the landing, the - armorer of his regiment, a favorite of both himself and his - men, was killed. The skill of this man was such as enabled - him to give the rifle its most deadly character; and the - efficiency of the regiment was consequently supposed, both - by officers and men, to depend much upon him. When he fell, - every man felt as if a deed had been perpetrated by the - enemy that demanded revenge; and the whole detachment, from - Major Forsyth down to the most indifferent marksman, - entered into the combat with a fierce spirit of retaliation - that, no doubt, contributed much to the obstinacy of the - stand they made, and the unusual loss sustained by the - enemy immediately opposed to them. - - Taking to the woods in which the British light troops were - posted, the riflemen, after their loose manner, placed - themselves behind trees, and thus carried on the contest - with their more concentrated, better ordered, and, - therefore, more exposed opponents. It is said that Major - Forsyth continued, throughout the action, to move to and - fro, armed only with a light sword, immediately in the rear - of his men, pointing out with an earnest solemnity that - partook both of sorrow and anger, to one rifleman and - another, some one of the enemy, and exclaiming that he was - the man who had killed the favorite armorer. This - suggestion was almost sure to be fatal to the enemy thus - specially branded with the guilt of having taken off the - best man of the corps. The British light troops were nearly - all left on the ground they first occupied, being too - strong to retreat while the landing was only partially - made, and too much exposed to stand before such expertness - of aim, rendered so fierce and unyielding by one of the - chance shots of an opening fight. - -The force under Forsyth was soon supported by Major King's[M-22] -battalion of the 15th Infantry, consisting of three companies--Captain -John Scott's, Captain White Youngs', and that of Captain John Lambert -Hoppock, who had been mortally wounded in the boats. When General Pike -had landed with the whole body of his troops, the attacking force was -represented by the 6th, 15th, 16th, and 21st Infantry, Colonel -Maclure's 3d regiment of New York Militia, and several pieces of -artillery. - -At the first sharp collision, as we have seen, the British were -defeated, not without much loss on both sides. On their retreat, the -bugles sounded the advance, and the troops pressed forward along the -lake shore toward Fort York, which was meanwhile bombarded from the -fleet. One of General Pike's staff says: "Our march was by the lake -road in sections, but the route was so much intersected by streams and -rivulets, the bridges over which had been destroyed by the enemy as -they retreated, that we were considerably retarded in our progress. We -collected logs, and by severe efforts at length contrived to pass over -one field piece and a howitzer, which were placed at the head of our -column, in charge of Captain Fanning[M-23] of the 3d Artillery; and thus -we proceeded through a spacious wood, as we emerged from which we were -saluted by a battery of 24-pounders. The general then ordered one of -his aids (Fraser) and a sergeant to proceed to the right of the -battery, in order to discover how many men were in the works. We did -so, and reported to him the number, and that they were spiking their -own guns. The general immediately ordered Captain Walworth of the 16th -[_sic_] with his company of grenadiers to make the assault. Walworth -gallantly ordered his men to trail arms and advance at the accelerated -pace; but at the moment when they were ordered to recover and charge -the enemy, the enemy broke in the utmost confusion, leaving several -men wounded on the ground which they abandoned." - -This first serious obstacle to Pike's advance was the Western battery -already described, p. lxvii, where the explosion occurred before -Captain Walworth[M-24] could carry out the order to charge this work. -This accident caused some loss of life to the defenders, but none to -the assaulters. Lossing has, concerning it: - - The wooden magazine of the battery, that had been - carelessly left open, blew up, killing some of the men, and - seriously damaging the defences. The dismayed enemy spiked - their cannon and fled to the next, or Half Moon battery. - Walworth pressed forward, when that, too, was abandoned, - and he found nothing within but spiked cannon. Sheaffe and - his little army, deserted by the Indians, fled to the - garrison near the governor's house, and there opened fire - upon the Americans. Pike ordered his troops to halt, and - lie flat upon the grass, while Major Eustis,[M-25] with his - artillery battery, moved to the front, and soon silenced - the great guns of the enemy. - -Finan is more circumstantial in describing the casualty which did so -much to decide the fate of the day: - - While this part of our force was contending with the enemy - in the woods, an unfortunate accident occurred in the - battery opposed to the fleet which proved a death blow to - the little hope that might have been entertained of a - successful issue to the proceedings of the day. A gun was - aimed at one of the vessels, and the officers, desirous of - seeing if the ball would take effect, ascended the bastion: - In the meantime the artilleryman, waiting for the word of - command to fire, held the match behind him, as is usual - under such circumstances; and the traveling magazine, a - large wooden chest, containing cartridges for the great - guns, being open just at his back, he unfortunately put - the match into it and the consequence, as may be supposed, - was dreadful indeed! Every man in the battery was blown - into the air, and the dissection of the greater part of - their bodies was inconceivably shocking! The officers were - thrown from the bastion by the shock, but escaped with a - few bruises; the cannons were dismounted, and consequently - the battery was rendered completely useless. - - I was standing at the gate of the garrison when the poor - soldiers who escaped the explosion with a little life - remaining, were brought in to the hospital, and a more - afflicting sight could scarcely be witnessed. Their faces - were completely black, resembling those of the blackest - Africans; their hair frizzled like theirs, and their - clothes scorched and emitting an effluvia so strong as to - be perceived long before they reached one. One man in - particular presented an awful spectacle: he was brought in - a wheelbarrow, and from his appearance I should be inclined - to suppose that almost every bone in his body was broken; - he was lying in a powerless heap, shaking about with every - motion of the barrow, from which his legs hung dangling - down, as if only connected with his body by the skin, while - his cries and groans were of the most heart-rending - description. - - Although Spartan valour was evinced by our little party, it - proved unavailing against the numbers that pressed them - upon all sides; and in consequence of the loss of the - battery, and the reduction that had been made in the number - of our troops, their ground was no longer tenable; but - after nobly and desperately withstanding their enemies for - several hours, a retreat towards the garrison became - inevitable, although every inch of the ground was - obstinately disputed. - -It is remarkable that Whiting's relation of the attack has nothing -about this marked affair; it is in fact impossible to follow the -course of events in his narrative, between the conclusion of the -opening engagement and the final explosion of the main magazine. -Lossing, having brought our troops to a halt, when they were lying -upon the grass, continues with the result of Major Eustis' operations: - - The firing from the garrison ceased and the Americans - expected every moment to see a white flag displayed from - the blockhouse in token of surrender. Lieut. Riddle[M-26] was - sent forward to reconnoitre. General Pike, who had just - assisted, with his own hands, in removing a wounded soldier - to a comfortable place, was sitting upon a stump conversing - with a huge British sergeant[M-27] who had been taken - prisoner, his staff standing around him. At that moment was - felt a sudden tremor of the ground, followed by a - tremendous explosion near the British garrison. The enemy, - despairing of holding the place, had blown up their powder - magazine, situated upon the edge of the water at the mouth - of a ravine, near where the buildings of the Great Western - Railway stand. The effect was terrible. Fragments of - timber, and huge stones of which the magazine walls were - built, were scattered in every direction over a space of - several hundred yards. When the smoke floated away, the - scene was appalling. Fifty-two Americans lay dead, and 180 - were wounded. So badly had the affair been managed that 40 - of the British also lost their lives by the explosion.[M-28] - -General Armstrong states, in his History of the War of 1812, that -General Sheaffe said this explosion was accidental, his own soldiers -having been involved in its effects. General Whiting repeats this. But -both Armstrong and Whiting are clearly in error. If General Sheaffe -ever said this, he said what he knew was untrue. His words--such as -they may have been--may have referred to the earlier explosion at the -Western battery and been mistaken to apply to the main explosion. We -have his own reiterated writings, that the magazine was exploded by -his order. One of these statements is made in a hurried letter, whose -almost illegible handwriting betrays the state of mind to which this -gentleman had been reduced. It was written while he was on his retreat -to Kingston, and is addressed to his superior officer, Sir George -Prevost. The published text before me reads in part as follows -(italics editorial): - - HALDIMAND, 30th April. - - MY DEAR SIR GEORGE,--I have the mortification of reporting - to you that York is in the possession of the enemy, it - having on the 27th inst. been attacked by a force too - powerful to resist with success. Sixteen vessels of various - descriptions full of men, including their new ship the - Madison, formed their flotilla. The Grenadiers of the - King's suffered first in the action with the enemy (in - which Captain W. Neale was killed), and afterwards - severely, in connection with other corps, by the accidental - explosion of a battery magazine, which at the same time - disabled the battery. _I caused our grand magazine to be - blown up...._ - - I am, my dear Sir George, your very faithfully devoted servant, - R. H. SHEAFFE. - -Another letter from General Sheaffe, dated Kingston, May 5th, when he -had become more composed in mind than he seems to have been during -his inglorious if not disgraceful flight, gives a more coherent -account and many further details. I cite it in full, from the original -MS. now in the Department of Archives at Ottawa, as kindly copied and -certified for me by Mr. L. P. Sylvain of the Library of Parliament: - - KINGSTON, 5^th May, 1813. - - SIR, - - I did myself the honour of writing to Your Excellency on my - route from York to communicate the mortifying intelligence - that the Enemy had obtained possession of that place on the - 27^th of April, and I shall now enter into a fuller - detail, than I was enabled to do at the date of that - letter. - - In the evening of the 26^th of April I received - information that many Vessels had been seen from the - Highlands to the Eastward of York, soon after daylight the - next morning the Enemy's Vessels were discovered lying to - not far from the shore of the peninsula in front of the - town; they soon afterwards, sixteen in number of various - descriptions, made sail with a fresh breeze from the [_p. - 2_] eastward, led by the Ship lately built at Sackett's - harbour, and anchored off the point where the french fort - [Rouillé] formerly stood; many boats full of troops were - soon discovered assembling near the Commander's Ship, - apparently with an intention of effecting a landing on the - ground off which he was anchored: our troops were ordered - into the Ravine in the rear of the Government Garden and - fields; Major Givens and the Indians with him were sent - forward through the wood to oppose the landing of the - Enemy--the Company of Glengary Light Infantry was directed - to support them, and the Militia not having arrived at the - Ravine, The Grenadiers of the King's Regiment and the small - portion of the Royal Newfoundland Fencibles belonging to - the Garrison of York were moved on, led by L^t Colonel - Heathcote of that corps, commanding the Garrison; this - movement was directed to be made within the wood, [_p. 3_] - parallel to the Lake-side, and only so far from it, as not - to be discovered by the Enemy's Vessels, several of which - were not at a great distance from the shore: Captain - Eustace's company of the King's Regiment, and some Militia - that were quartered at the east end of the town, and had - been left there during the night, lest the Enemy might make - some attempt on that flank, were ordered, with the - exception of a small party of the Militia, to join these - troops--which was soon effected: while these operations - were going on Major General Shaw, Adjudant General of - Militia led a portion of the Militia on a road at the back - of the wood to watch our rear, and to act according to - circumstances; by some mistake he led the Glengary company - away from the direction assigned to it, to accompany this - detachment, so that it came late into action, instead of - being near the Indians at its commencement; the movement of - the other troops was retarded [_p. 4_] by the difficulty of - the wood, while the Enemy being aided by the wind, rapidly - gained the shore under cover of a fire from the commodore's - ship and other vessels, and landed in spite of a spirited - opposition from major Givens and his small band of Indians; - the Enemy was shortly afterwards encountered by our handful - of troops, Captain McNeal of the King's Regiment was early - killed while gallantly leading his Company which suffered - severely: the troops fell back. I succeeded in rallying - them several times, and a detachment of the King's with - some Militia, whom I had placed near the edge of the wood - to protect our left Flank repulsed a column of the Enemy - which was advancing along the bank at the Lake side: but - our troops could not maintain the contest against the - greatly superior and increasing numbers of the Enemy--they - retired under cover of our batteries, which were engaged - with some of their Vessels, that had begun to beat up - towards [_p. 5_] the harbour, when their troops landed, - occasionally firing, and had anchored at a short distance - to the westward of the line from the Barracks to Gibraltar - Point; from that situation they kept up a heavy fire on our - batteries, on the Block House and Barracks, and on the - communications between them, some of their Guns being - thirty two pounders; to return their fire, we had two - complete twelve pounders, and old condemned guns without - trunnions (---- eighteen ---- pounders) which, after being - proved had been stocked and mounted under the direction of - Lieut. Ingouville of the Royal Newfoundland Regiment, whom - I had appointed Assistant Engineer; a twelve pounder of the - same description was added during the Engagement; with - these defective means the Enemy was kept at bay for some - time, _when, by some unfortunate accident, the traveling - Magazine at the Western battery blew up and killed and - wounded a considerable number of men_ [italics editorial]; - many of them belonging to the [_p. 6_] Grenadier Company of - the King's Regiment, the battery was crippled, the platform - being torn up, and one of the eighteen pounders overturned: - the Magazine was replaced and the battery restored to some - order, but it was evident that our numbers and means of - defence were inadequate to the task of maintaining - possession of York against the vast superiority of force - brought against it, though providentially little mischief - had hitherto been done by the long continued cannonade of - the Enemy, except to some of the buildings: _the troops - were withdrawn towards the town, and the grand Magazine was - at the same time blown up_ [italics editorial], the Enemy - was so near to it, that he sustained great loss, and was, - for a time, driven back by the explosion; some of our own - troops were not beyond the reach of fragments of the - stone, though they escaped with very little injury; Captain - Loring, my aide-de-camp, received a severe contusion, and - [_p. 7_] the horse he rode was killed. - - The troops were halted at a ravine not far to the westward - of the ship yard, I there consulted with the Superior - Officers, and it being too apparent that a further - opposition would but render the result more disastrous, - some of the Enemy's vessels indicating an intention to move - up the harbour, in order to co-operate with their land - forces, I ordered the troops of the line to retreat on the - road to Kingston, which was effected without any annoyance - from the Enemy; when we had proceeded some miles we met the - Light Company of the King's Regiment on its march for Fort - George, I had sent an express the preceding evening to - hasten its movement, but it was at too great a distance to - be able to join us at York. - - The ship on the stocks and the naval stores were destroyed - to prevent the Enemy from getting possession of them. [_p. - 8_] An attempt to set fire to the Gloucester that was - fitting out for purposes of transport, proved abortive; she - was aground a mere hulk, her repairs not being half - finished: I have been informed that the enemy succeeded in - getting her off, and putting her into a state to be towed - away; a number of shipwrights having arrived from Sackett's - harbour with the expectation of employing them in a similar - task on our new ship. - - The accounts of the number of the Enemy landed vary from - eighteen hundred and ninety to three thousand [!], our - force consisted of a Bombardier and twelve Gunners of the - Royal Artillery to assist whom men were drawn from other - corps, two companies of the 8th or King's Regiment, one of - them, the Grenadiers, being on its route for Fort George, - about a company in number, of the Royal [_p. 9_] - Newfoundland regiment, and one of the Glengary Light - Infantry, and about three hundred Militia and Dock Yard - men; the quality of some of these troops was of so superior - a description, and their general disposition so good, that - under less unfavourable circumstances we might have - repulsed the Enemy in spite of his numbers, or have made - him pay dearly for success; as it was, according to the - reports that have reached me, his loss was much greater - than ours, a return of which I have the honour of - transmitting, except of that of the Militia, of which a - return has not yet been received; but I believe it to have - been inconsiderable: Donald McLean Esqr Clerk of the House - of Assembly gallantly volunteered his services with a - musket, and was killed. - - [_p. 10_] Captain Jarvis of the Incorporated Militia, a - meritorious Officer, who had a share in the successes at - Detroit and Queenston, had been sent with a party of - Militia in three batteaux for the Militia Clothing, which - had been left on the road from Kingston, he came to me - during the action to report his arrival, and soon - afterwards he was severely wounded: a few of the Indians - (Missasagus & Chipeways) were killed and wounded, among the - latter were two chiefs. - - Thinking it highly probable that the Enemy would pay an - early visit to York, I had remained there long beyond the - period I had originally assigned for my departure to fort - George, in order to expedite the preparations which the - means in my power enabled me to make for the defence of the - place; Your [_p. 11_] Excellency knows that I had intended - to place Colonel Myers, Acting Quarter Master General, in - the command there, at least for a time; I afterwards learnt - that Colonel Young was in movement towards me with the 8th - or King's Regt. I then decided to give him the Command to - avoid the inconvenience of seperating (_sic_) the head of a - department from me, and being informed that he was to move - up by himself as speedily as possible, I was for some time - in daily expectation of seeing him; at length, having - reason to believe that he was to accompany one of the - divisions of his Regiment, I wrote to him both by the land - and by the water route to come to me without delay; about - the 25th of April I received certain intelligence, of what - had been [_p. 12_] before rumoured, that he was detained at - Kingston by a severe illness, and on the 26th I learnt that - Colonel Myers was to leave Fort George that day for York, I - therefore determined to wait for his arrival, and to leave - him in the command until Colonel Young might be in a state - to relieve him; it was in the evening of the same day that - I heard of the approach of the Enemy: I have thought it - proper to enter into this explanation, as Your Excellency - may have expected that I had returned to Fort George before - the period at which the attack was made on York. I propose - remaining here until I shall have received Your - Excellency's Commands. - - I have the honour to be, - With great respect, - Your Excellency's - Most obedient - humble servant - [Signed] R. H. SHEAFFE. - M. Gen. Command. - - His Excellency - SIR. GEORGE PREVOST. Bt - et. et. et. - - Certified a true copy of the original letter in the - Department of Archives, Ottawa. - - [Signed] L. P. SYLVAIN, Assist. Libr., Nov. 2d, 1894. - -Here is the clear and intelligible testimony of the British commanding -general to the facts that there were two explosions, one of which was -accidental and destructive to his own men, the other designed and -executed by his own command. It is believed to have been a little -premature, in the confusion of an evacuation that was nothing short of -a rout, before the defenders were quite out of reach of its effects; -but that they suffered little from what wrought such havoc with the -Americans, is incontestable. The ethics of the catastrophe I leave to -be discussed by professional military critics; but it seems to me that -General Sheaffe was justified in inflicting the utmost possible injury -upon the enemy, and that he would have been chargeable with culpable -neglect of duty if he had allowed valuable munitions of war to fall -into their hands. - -Before resuming the main thread of this painful narration I will -introduce two accounts, both by eye-witnesses. - -One of these is contained in an extract of a letter from a field -officer in the force which landed at York, name not given, to the War -Department, as published in Niles' Register, IV. p. 193. It is -explicit regarding both explosions, though loose in statement of -numbers killed by each, and in some other respects: - - The column of attack consisted of the 6th, 15th, 16th, and - 21st regiments of infantry, and a detachment of the light - and heavy artillery. Major Forsyth's corps of riflemen, and - Lieut. Col. M'Clure's corps of volunteers acted on the - flanks. There was a long piece of woods to go through, - which offered many obstructions to our heavy ordnance. As - was expected, we were there annoyed on our flanks by a part - of the British and Indians, with a six-pounder and two - howitzers. One of the enemies batteries [the Western] - accidentally blew up, by which they lost 50 men of the 8th - regiment. A part of our force was detached from our column, - as it came into the open ground, who carried the second - battery by storm. The troops were halted a few minutes to - bring up the heavy artillery to play on the blockhouse. - General Sheaffe, despairing of holding the town, ordered - fire to be put to the magazine, in which there were 500 - barrels of powder, many cart loads of stone, and an immense - quantity of iron, shells and shot. The explosion was - tremendous. The column was raked from front to rear. - General Pike and his three aids, and 250 officers and men - were killed or wounded in the column. Notwithstanding this - calamity and the discomfiture that might be expected to - follow it, the troops gave three cheers, instantly formed - the column, and marched on toward the town. General - Sheaffe fled and left his papers and baggage behind - him.[M-29] - -Finan gives a vivid picture of what he saw of the catastrophe. It must -be taken with some allowance, perhaps, for the force of the impression -which the terrible scene made upon him at the moment, and the -subsequent insistence with which his memory dwelt upon such a -spectacle; but it can hardly be much overdrawn: - - The governor's house, with some smaller buildings, formed a - square, at the center battery, and under it the grand - magazine, containing a large quantity of powder, was - situated. As there were only two or three guns at this - battery, and it but a short distance from the garrison, the - troops did not remain in it, but retreated to the latter. - When the Americans commanded by one of their best generals, - Pike, reached this small battery, instead of pressing - forward, they halted, and the general sat down on one of - the guns; a fatal proceeding--for, in a few minutes, his - advance guard, consisting of about 300 men and himself, - were blown into the air by the explosion of the grand - magazine. - - Some time before this horrible circumstance took place, the - vessels had commenced firing upon the garrison, which - obliged the females, and children, &c. to leave it; we - therefore retired into the country, to the house of an - officer of the militia, where we remained a short time; but - feeling anxious to know the fate of the day, I left the - house without the knowledge of my mother, and was - proceeding toward the garrison when the explosion took - place. I heard the report, and felt a tremendous motion in - the earth, resembling the shock of an earthquake; and, - looking towards the spot, I saw an immense cloud ascend - into the air. I was not aware at the moment what it had - been occasioned by, but it had an awfully grand effect; at - first it was a great confused mass of smoke, timber, men, - earth, &c. but as it rose, in a most majestic manner, it - assumed the shape of a vast balloon. When the whole mass - had ascended to a considerable height, and the force by - which the timber, &c. were impelled upwards became spent, - the latter fell from the cloud and spread over the - surrounding plain. I stopped to observe the cloud, which - preserved its round shape while it remained within my view. - I then advanced towards the garrison, but had not proceeded - much farther until I discovered our little party collected - in a close body between the town and that place, which - latter they had been obliged to evacuate. - -It is said, "Death loves a shining mark." One of the missiles that -hurtled down on that devoted band sought out their heroic leader with -fatal effect. A piece of rock fell on General Pike's back, and "broke -in upon the very springs of life," to use Whiting's words. A sadly -realistic memento of the speedily fatal injury reaches us from one of -his aids, who was by his side and was himself gravely wounded. -Lieutenant Fraser says, in a private letter he wrote by Pike's special -injunction, which appeared in the Aurora, and afterward in Niles' -Register, IV. p. 225: "Without the honor of a personal acquaintance, I -address you at the particular order of the late General Pike. After he -had been mortally wounded, his words were exactly these: '... I am -mortally wounded--my ribs and back are stove in--write my friend D... -and tell him what you know of the battle--and to comfort my ....' Some -things else he said, on which I shall again write you; and many -things he said for your ear have escaped me through the severity of my -own bruises." - -The dying general was carried to a boat at the lake side and conveyed -to the Pert, whence he was taken aboard the flagship Madison. Some -recorded words of his last moments need not be scanned with critical -eye. When those who bore their fallen leader reached the boat the -huzza of the troops fell upon his ears. "What does it mean?" he feebly -asked. "Victory!" was the reply; "the Union Jack is coming down, -General--the Stars and Stripes are going up!" The dying hero's face -lighted up with a smile of ecstasy. His spirit lingered a few hours. -Before the end came, the British flag was brought to him. He made a -sign to place it under his head; and thus he expired.[M-30] - -Military history hardly furnishes a closer parallel than that between -the death of Pike before York and of Wolfe before Quebec. Each led to -the assault; each conquered; each fell in the arms of victory; each is -said to have pillowed his head on the stricken colors of the -defenders. On the other hand, no contrast could be more obtrusive than -that between the fall of Brock before Queenstown Heights and the -conduct of his successor, Sheaffe, at York. The latter fled on the -heels of disaster across the Don and on toward Kingston; even his -personal baggage and papers fell into the hands of his enemy; the very -terms of the surrender of York were agreed upon by others, in the -absence of its late defender. But it is needless to pursue this -subject. General Sheaffe has by none been more severely criticised -than by British writers. - -When General Pike fell, the command devolved by seniority upon -Colonel Pearce,[M-31] of the 16th Infantry, until General Dearborn -arrived upon the scene. Lieutenant Riddle's detachment was so near the -place of explosion that it escaped the deadly shower; but the -Americans scattered in dismay at the catastrophe. They were rallied by -Brigade-Major Hunt and Lieutenant-Colonel Mitchell of the 3d -Artillery. The column was formed again and led into the captured town -without further resistance. Colonel Pearce sent a flag, demanding -immediate and unconditional surrender--and surrender it was, with the -single stipulation that private property should be respected. As soon -as practicable General Dearborn left the fleet for York, where he was -in command before night fell. His first dispatch to the Secretary of -War appears as follows in the text of Fay's Collection, p. 81, and is -substantially the same in Niles' Register, IV. p. 178: - - HEADQUARTERS, YORK, CAPITAL OF U. C. - April 27, 1813--8 o'clock, P. M. - - SIR--We are in full possession of this place, after a sharp - conflict, in which we lost some brave officers and - soldiers. General Sheaffe commanded the British troops, - militia, and Indians, in person.--We shall be prepared to - sail for the next object of the expedition, the first - favourable wind. I have to lament the loss of the brave and - active Brig. Gen. Pike. - - I am, &c. - H. DEARBORN. - - Hon. J. ARMSTRONG. - -The official reports of General Dearborn and of Commodore Chauncey to -their respective Secretaries of War and of the Navy appear in full in -Niles' Register, IV. pp. 178-180; in Brannan's Official Letters, pp. -146-149, and in Fay's Collection of Official Documents, pp. 81-85. The -text of Dearborn's in Niles is in greater part as follows: - - HEADQUARTERS, YORK, CAPITAL OF UPPER CANADA, - April 28, 1813. - - SIR: - - After a detention of some days by adverse winds, we arrived - at this place yesterday morning, and at eight o'clock - commenced landing the troops, about three miles westward - from the town, and one mile and a half from the enemy's - works. The wind was high and in unfavorable direction for - the boats, which prevented the landing of the troops at a - clear field, the scite of the ancient French fort Toronto - [Rouillé]. It prevented, also, many of the armed vessels - from taking positions which would have most effectually - covered our landing, but everything that could be done was - effected. - - The riflemen under Major Forsyth first landed, under a - heavy fire from the Indians and other troops. General - Sheaffe commanded in person. He had collected his whole - force in the woods near the point where the wind compelled - our troops to land. His force consisted of 700 regulars and - militia, and 100 Indians. Major Forsyth was supported as - promptly as possible; but the contest was sharp and severe - for nearly half an hour, and the enemy were repulsed by a - number far inferior to theirs. As soon as General Pike - landed with 700 or 800 men and the remainder of the troops - were pushing for the shore, the enemy retreated to their - works. Our troops were now formed on the ground originally - intended for their landing, advanced through a thick wood, - and after carrying one [the Western] battery by assault, - were moving in columns toward the main work; when within 60 - rods of this, a tremendous explosion took place from a - magazine previously prepared, which threw out such immense - quantities of stone as most seriously to injure our troops. - I have not yet been able to collect the returns of the - killed and wounded; but our loss will I fear exceed 100 - [see p. xci]; and among those I have to lament the loss of - that brave and excellent officer, Brigadier-General Pike, - who received a concussion from a large stone, which - terminated his valuable life within a few hours. His loss - will be severely felt. - - Previously to this explosion the enemy had retired into the - town, excepting a party of regulars, to the number of 40, - who did not escape the effects of the shock.... - - General Sheaffe moved off with the regular troops and left - the commanding officer of the militia to make the best - terms he could. In the mean time all further resistance on - the part of the enemy ceased, and the outlines of a - capitulation were agreed on.... - - I have the honor to be, Sir, &c., - [Signed] HENRY DEARBORN. - - HON. GEN. JOHN ARMSTRONG, - Secretary of War, Washington. - -The "Terms of capitulation entered into on the 27th of April, 1813, -for the surrender of the town of York, in Upper Canada, to the Army -and Navy of the United States, under the command of Major-General -Dearborn and Commodore Chauncey," appear as follows, in Niles' -Register, IV. p. 180--omitting the clauses which relate to the -disposition of individuals as prisoners of war: - - That the troops, regular and militia, at this post, and the - naval officers and seamen, shall be surrendered prisoners - of war. The troops, regular and militia, to ground their - arms immediately, on parade, and the naval officers and - seaman to be immediately surrendered. - - That all public stores, naval and military, shall be - immediately given up to the commanding officers of the army - and navy of the United States. That all private property - shall be guaranteed to the citizens of the town of York. - - That all papers belonging to the civil officers shall be - retained by them. That such surgeons as may be procured to - attend the wounded of the British regulars and Canadian - militia shall not be considered prisoners of war. - -These articles bear the signatures of: Lieutenant-Colonel G. E. -Mitchell,[M-32] 3d U. S. Artillery; Major S. S. Conner,[M-33] aid-de-camp -to General Dearborn; Major William King, 15th U. S. Infantry; -Lieutenant Jesse D. Elliott, U. S. Navy; Lieutenant-Colonel W. -Chewitt, commanding 3d regiment of York Militia; Major W. Allen (or -Allan), of the same; and F. Gaurreau, "lieut. M. Dpt."--the last name -perhaps misprinted. - -General Pike's body was prepared at York and conveyed to Sackett's -Harbor for interment. It was first buried at Fort Tompkins, at a -little distance from the shiphouse, together with that of his -aid-de-camp, Captain Nicholson,[M-34] who had been mortally wounded by -his side. Among the defenses of Sackett's Harbor was one named Fort -Pike, which stood on Black River bay. A view of this work, as it was -in 1855, is given by Lossing. Madison Barracks was built close by Fort -Pike, soon after the war, and in the burying-ground there were -deposited the remains of several officers, to whose memories a simple -wooden monument was erected in 1819. Lossing figures this, p. 617, as -it was when he examined it in July, 1855, "more leaning than the Pisa -tower." In 1860 it was rapidly crumbling into dust; the urn which had -surmounted it was gone, and the inscription was illegible. A part of -the legend on the west panel, copied by Lossing at his previous visit, -had been: "In memory of Brigadier General Z. M. Pike, killed at York, -U. C. 27th April, 1813." - -A tablet to the memory of General Pike has for many years been set in -St. Michael's church, at Trenton, N. J. For a description of this -object and a copy of the inscription I am indebted to the courteous -attentions of the rector, Rev. O. S. Bunting. It consists of a marble -slab, about 36 inches high by 20 inches wide, inserted in the outer -wall of the church on the east side, the base being about two feet -from the ground. On this slab is carved in relief an urn, which -occupies the whole surface, as nearly as the shape of an urn can fill -a rectangle; and on the urn is engraven the following inscription: - - Sacred - to the memory of - GEN. Z. M. PIKE, - of the U. S. Army, - who fell in defence - of his country - on the 27th April - A. D. 1813, - at York - Upper Canada. - -On the base is inscribed: "This small tribute of respect is erected by -his friend, Z. R." The stone is in a good state of preservation, and -its position affords considerable security. Mr. Bunting has no -particulars of the erection of the tablet, and does not identify -"Z. R." - -Upon the fall of York, the press of the whole country teemed with -jubilant notices of the auspicious event--the first signal success of -our arms after a period of defeat, doubt, and almost despair. The -death of Pike was on every tongue, in terms of affection for the man -and honor to his name, coupled with expressions of horror and -detestation of the manner in which he and so many of his companions -had met their fate. The feeling in the latter regard was spontaneous -and natural under the circumstances--it appears differently in the -cold gray light of history. Among uncounted tributes to Pike's memory, -a few may be selected for reproduction in the present biography. - -The editor of Niles' Register was in the habit of dedicating a -completed volume. The fourth volume, from Mar. to Sept., 1813, is -inscribed: "In Testimony of Respect to the Memory of ZEBULON -MONTGOMERY PIKE, Brigadier-General: who fell gloriously before York, -in Upper Canada. And JAMES LAWRENCE, Captain in the Navy: Killed on -board the Chesapeake frigate, fighting the Shannon. This volume of the -Weekly Register, is dedicated. The former happily expired on the -conquered flag of the foe, the latter died exclaiming, 'Don't give up -the ship.'" - -The same volume prints the following tribute in No. 14, for the week -ending June 5th, 1813, pp. 228, 229: - - It has been the lot of few men, unassisted by many - adventitious circumstances to acquire and possess that high - confidence and respect of all classes of his - fellow-citizens, the late General Pike so happily enjoyed. - Without the splendor of achievement that surrounds the - fortunate hero, and commands the applause of the populace, - the lamented man forced his way into the public affection - by the power of his virtues and strength of his talents - alone. Careless of popularity, a great and good name was - "buckled on him" by a discriminating people. He was an - _ægis_ of the army; and the soldiery looked upon him with - admiration and reverence; love, mixed with the fear of - offending his nice ideas of right, governing them all. He - was a severe disciplinarian; but had the felicity to make - his soldiers assured that his strictness had for its object - their glory--their ease--their preservation and safety. - With a mind conscious of its own rectitude, he was not - easily diverted from his purpose; and difficulty only - invigorated exertion. To all the sweetness of a familiar - friend, he added a strength of remark and pungency of - observation, that delighted all around him. Though the camp - was his delight, he was fitted for any company; and could - make himself agreeable on every proper occasion. His - courage was invincible, for it was the result of his - reason; and his death is a proof of it. The pride of his - countrymen in arms, the pattern for a military life, he - fell, at the moment of victory, on the first opportunity - that had been afforded to reduce to practice the perfection - of his theory--"but he fell like a man." His transcendent - qualities were opening to the view; but they were nipped in - the bud by the base stratagem of a beaten foe.[M-35] His name - is unperishable; and will descend to posterity with the - Warrens, Montgomerys and Woosters, of the other war. Though - dead, he shall yet speak to the army of the United States. - His scheme of tactics and practice of discipline shall be - the criterion of the soldier's worth. He has left behind - him many accomplished scholars, who, "while memory holds - her seat," shall teach his rules to others, and sacredly - preserve them as landmarks whereby to govern themselves. - The labors of the illustrious dead are not lost. His body - has descended to the tomb, and the gallant spirit taken its - flight to Him that gave it--but his virtues shall live, and - be with us, many generations. - -Mr. Niles' eulogy concludes with a dramatic incident which commends -itself for insertion here, in further illustration of the strong hold -General Pike acquired upon public sentiment: - - It may not be amiss, perhaps, to notice a humble mark of - respect offered by the managers of the Baltimore theatre, a - few evenings ago, to the memory of the general. The house - was crowded in consequence of several spectacles designed - in honor of the day (the review of the Baltimore brigade). - Between the second and third acts of the play the curtain - slowly, but unexpectedly, rose to solemn music, and - exhibited a lofty obelisk on which was inscribed "Z. M. - Pike, Brigadier General--Fell gloriously before York--March - [April] 27, 1813." On the left hand of the monument was - that elegant actress, Mrs. Green, in character as Columbia, - armed, kneeling on one knee, and pensively pointing with - her spear to the name of the hero. Her dress was uncommonly - splendid and very appropriate to the idea [she] designed to - sustain. On the other side was a lady, an elegant figure, - dressed in the deepest mourning, gracefully leaning against - the pedestal, immovably fixed, "in all the solemn majesty - of woe." The curtain being fairly raised, a death-like - silence for a considerable time reigned in the house, the - music excepted; which did not interrupt the pleasing - melancholy by any ill-timed boisterousness: but soon the - feelings of the people burst forth in one unanimous - expression of applause, such has been rarely witnessed, - certainly never surpassed in any country, on a similar - occasion. - -In the House of Representatives of the national Congress, on Tuesday, -July 27th, 1813, the following resolution was submitted by Mr. Nelson: - - _Resolved_, That a committee be appointed to examine and - report on the propriety of conferring public honors on the - memory of James Lawrence, late of the U. States frigate - Chesapeake, and of Zebulon M. Pike, late a - brigadier-general in the armies of the U. States, whose - distinguished deaths in the service of their country add - lustre to the character of the American nation; the - propriety of adopting, as the peculiar children of the - Republic, the sons of those distinguished heroes; and the - propriety of making provision for the support and comfort - of the families of these deceased officers. - -Among the many measures which were adopted to honor General Pike's -name and fame, there is perhaps none more marked than the action of -the officers of the regiment of which he was the colonel. We have a -glimpse of the hearts that still beat for him in the proceedings -recorded in the Register of May 14th, 1814, VI. p. 176: - - BURLINGTON, _April 29, 1814_. - - At a meeting of the Board of Honor of the 15th, or Pike's - regiment held on the 24th inst., it was resolved, that the - following articles of the constitution governing said Board - be carried into effect.--"Article 2d. Each succeeding 27th - April, the day on which the immortal Pike fell; the - standard will be dressed in mourning; each officer to wear - crape, and all unnecessary duties dispensed with during the - day, as a token of respect for our departed friend and - commander," and that captain Vandalsem, captain Barton, and - lieutenant Goodwin be a committee of arrangement for the - day.[M-36] - - Agreeably to the above resolution, the regiment formed at - eleven o'clock a. m. on the grand parade, and proceeded in - funeral order through town, to the court house square, and - from thence through Pearl street, to the cantonment, where - by the request of the commanding officer, lieutenant - Goodwin delivered the following pertinent address: - - Fellow soldiers--Thus far have we solemnized this day in - commemoration of the immortal father of our regiment, our - beloved Pike. When our political horizon was darkened by - the confusion that pervaded the whole world, he was among - the first that advanced to meet our barbarous and unjust - enemy. Stimulated by a love of country, and a thirst for - glory, he solicited with ardor, the honor of facing the - enemy's batteries on all occasions, he panted to invade in - the just cause of his country, and lived with the lively - hope of perpetuating our freedom and handing it down - unpolluted to future generations. - - As an officer, the remotest corners of our country are - filled with his fame. Let the learned record his deeds, and - let us improve the principles he has left imprinted in our - minds, and like him live but "for honor and happiness in - this life, and fame after death." Nor let us confound him - with the list of ordinary heroes. He will compare with - [Joseph] Warren and [Richard] Montgomery, for like them he - fell at the head of his column, bravely fighting in his - country's cause. - - With body shattered by an inhuman and unequalled explosion, - he smiled in death, while our flag waved triumphant in his - sight, and expired without regret, on a pillow purchased - with his life. - - May the omnipotent hand which directs all things, cause his - spirit to hover around our councils in the field, and at - all times be with his beloved regiment. - - After which the regiment fired three vollies and retired to - their quarters. - - WHITE YOUNGS,[M-37] capt 15th inf. - President of the Board, _pro tem._ - - DANL. E. BURCH,[M-38] lt. 15th inf. - Secretary of the Board, _pro tem._ - -Within some months, probably, of General Pike's death, a man-of-war -was named in his honor. The Register for Aug. 7th, 1813, p. 374, -describes it: "The _General Pike_ is a strong, stout, and well built -vessel. Length on deck 140 feet, beam 37 feet, burthen about 900 -tons--has 14 ports on a side, and carries on the main deck long -24's--has also long 24's on the forecastle and poop, (one each), -moving on a circle, and four guns on her top gallant forecastle; in -all 34 guns." General A. W. Greely, who interested himself to procure -the information, tells me that this frigate, a twin ship with the -_Madison_, was built in 63 days and launched on Lake Ontario, at -Sackett's Harbor, where she barely escaped destruction by fire, owing -to the mistaken zeal of an officer who applied the torch, supposing -the American victory to be a defeat; and that it does not appear that -the vessel was ever brought into action. - -I have already alluded to the Fort Pike on Lake Ontario. There was -another Fort Pike, the name of which still finds place in current -gazetteers. This was a military post on Petites Coquilles island, in -Orleans parish, Louisiana, 35 miles E. N. E. of New Orleans. While it -is not probable that all the counties, towns, etc., called "Pike" were -named for our hero, certainly most of them bear his own name, alone or -in combination or composition. There is a Pike county in Alabama, -Arkansas, Georgia, Illinois, Indiana, Kentucky, Mississippi, Missouri, -Ohio, and Pennsylvania. There are about 20 Pike townships in different -counties of Indiana, Kansas, Missouri, Ohio, and Pennsylvania. Pike is -the name of several small places in Illinois, New York, North -Carolina, and Ohio. Pike City is a village in Sierra Co., Cal. Pike -Creek is a township of Shannon Co., Mo., and another township, of -Morrison Co., Minn., besides designating the stream itself which flows -through the latter: see beyond, pp. 104, 123, 316. Pike Five Corners -is a hamlet of Wyoming Co., N. Y. Pikeland is a station on the -Pickering Valley R. R., in Chester Co., Pa. Pike Mills is a hamlet in -Pike township, Potter Co., Pa. Pike rapids are those in the -Mississippi, otherwise Knife rapids: see pp. 100, 104, 122. Pike's bay -is the gulf at the southern part of Cass lake: see pp. 157, 158, 324. -Pike's fork of the Arkansaw river, is present Grape creek: see pp. -463, 482. Pike's island, in the Mississippi at the mouth of the -Minnesota river, is historic: see pp. 76, 197, 239. Pike's mountain is -the range of bluffs opposite Prairie du Chien: see p. 37. Pike's Peak -is not only the famous mountain so called, but a hamlet in Brown Co., -Ind., a hamlet in Wayne Co., Mich., and a mining-camp in Deer Lodge -Co., Mont. Pike Station is a village in Wayne Co., O. Piketon is a -hamlet in Stoddard Co., Mo., and a village in Pike Co., O. Piketon or -Pikeville is the capital of Pike Co., Ky. Pikesville or Pikeville is a -village in Baltimore Co., Md.; a hamlet in Pike township, Berks Co., -Pa.; the capital of Marion Co., Ala.; a post-office of Pike Co., Ind.; -a hamlet in Pikeville township, Wayne Co., N. C.; a village in Darke -Co., O.; and the capital of Bledsoe Co., Tenn. Some of these places -are no doubt named for other persons of the same surname; some are -called for the pike, a fish, as is the case with several Pike rivers, -creeks, or ponds not included in the above list; and some may refer to -a turnpike road, or have yet another implication. - -To those of the foregoing geographical and political names which -commemorate our hero is to be added the designation of "Pikes" as an -epithet of the "Forty-niners" and later emigrants who navigated the -great plains with their "prairie schooners." Thus Mr. Prentis, in the -address already cited, says, pp. 193, 194: - - To these people thus described, and to all who bore to them - a family resemblance, and who in 1849 and in subsequent - years crossed the Plains to California, came to be applied, - by whom I know not, the general name of "Pikes." Various - explanations have been given of the origin of the name. The - most reasonable one is, that, there are in Missouri and - Illinois two large counties named Pike, and separated from - each other by the Mississippi river. In 1849 an immense - emigration set in from these counties to California. In - consequence, the traveler bound for the States, meeting - teams, and asking the usual question, "Where are you from?" - was answered frequently with, "Pike county" meaning in some - cases one Pike county, in some cases the other. This led to - the general impression that everybody on the road was from - Pike county, or that the inhabitants of Pike had all taken - the road. Hence the general name of "Pikes," as applied to - emigrants, especially to those traveling from Missouri, - and, generally, those migrating from southern Illinois and - southern Indiana. Thus the popular song--the only poetry I - ever heard of applied to this class of "movers," commences: - - "My name it is Joe Bowers, - I've got a brother Ike; - I'm bound for Californy, - And I'm all the way from Pike." - -Pike County, Ill., and Pike County, Mo., are certainly both named for -the general, and I have no doubt that Mr. Prentis' explanation of -"Pikes" is correct. With the above doggerel compare the slang phrase -noted beyond, p. 454, and duly legended as the head-line of p. 457. - -Another curious word, to which Pike has given rise indirectly, is -"Peaker," as a designation of persons who came to the vicinity of -Pike's Peak. Thus, we read in Colonel Meline's book, p. 89: "Most of -the people who have settled on these farms [between Colorado Springs -and Denver] were disappointed 'Peakers'--either those who had thrown -down the shovel to take up the plough, or those who, with exhausted -means, found a long mountain journey still before them after they had -reached the Peak." - -There is a sameness about the many published portraits of Pike which -shows that they were probably all taken from one original painting. -Lossing's cut looks a little different from the rest, as it faces the -other way, but it is the same picture reversed in copying, no doubt -with the camera lucida. There is no mistaking the extremely long, -large nose, above the full compressed lips, denoting the forceful -character which Pike displayed conspicuously throughout his career, -whether in leading a handful of men through an unbroken wilderness, or -in heading the columns which assaulted an intrenched foe. The same -uniform coat, with its epaulets, its high standing, embroidered -collar, unbuttoned across the breast and the flap turned down on one -side, appears in all these likenesses. Such are inserted in some of -the editions of Pike's work; one of the reproductions forms the -frontispiece of an early popular history of the war, and is called "a -striking likeness" on the title page. They are all doubtless traceable -to the painting which has long hung and still hangs in the historical -gallery of Independence Hall at Philadelphia, alongside the portraits -of Meriwether Lewis, William Clark, and many other noble men who loved -and lived for their country. The painting which hangs in one of the -rooms of the Minnesota Historical Society at St. Paul is believed to -be a copy of this, though it differs in the introduction of a spirit -hand, extended from an invisible arm, holding a wreath over the -head--an attempt at symbolism in which the unknown artist has not been -very successful. This portrait is dim and much cracked. I am informed -by Mr. William M. Maguire of Denver, that a prominent citizen of -Colorado has recently executed a bronze bust of Pike, to be placed in -Manitou. Facsimiles of Pike's signature are seldom seen in print; -Lossing gives one with the portrait on p. 586 of his Field Book. I am -not aware that any facsimile of a letter in Pike's handwriting has -hitherto been published. That one which is given in the present volume -was selected from among many I have examined in the archives of the -War Department, both for its intrinsic historical interest, and for -the unusually well-formed signature it bears--that of one who died, as -he had lived, for his country--of one whose fame that country will -never permit to perish. - -FOOTNOTES: - -[M-1] Henry Whiting of Massachusetts entered the army as a cornet of -Light Dragoons Oct. 29th, 1808; he became a second lieutenant Sept. -15th, 1809, and a first lieutenant Aug. 20th, 1811; was transferred to -the 5th Infantry May 17th, 1815; promoted to be captain Mar. 3d, 1817; -and transferred to the 1st Artillery June 1st, 1821. He became major -and quartermaster Feb. 23d, 1835; lieutenant-colonel and deputy -quartermaster-general, July 7th, 1838; colonel and assistant -quartermaster-general, Apr. 21st, 1846. He was repeatedly brevetted -for faithful and meritorious service, and on Feb. 23d, 1847, received -the brevet of brigadier-general for gallantry in the battle of Buena -Vista. General Whiting died Sept. 16th, 1851. - -[M-2] Access to these records was given in the following terms: - - WAR DEPARTMENT, - WASHINGTON, D. C., - January 29, 1894. - - SIR: - - As requested in your letter of the 22nd instant, I take - pleasure in advising you that you will be afforded an - opportunity at such time as you may call at the Department - to examine for historical purposes such records as are on - file covering the expedition of Z. M. Pike, a publication - of whose travels you state first appeared in 1810. - - Very respectfully, - [Signed] DANIEL S. LAMONT, - Secretary of War. - - DR. ELLIOTT COUES, - Smithsonian Institution, - Washington, D. C. - -[M-3] See beyond, p. lix, for a document bearing on the Pike family, in -connection with a letter of Zebulon M. Pike, both introduced in their -proper chronological order in this memoir. But I find no better place -than this for a letter from his father, which has never been published -before and will be read with interest: - - Indiana Territory - Dear born County - July 15^th 1807 - - Sir - - I have taken the liberty of making out my accounts of Pay - Forrage and Subsistance from the 1^t of January to the 31^t - ins^t and forwarded them to the Pay Master for payment - which I pray may meet your approbation - - Permit me to request the Honor of a few lines informing if - Z. M. Pike received orders for His Government on His late - exploring expedition, from The President, Yourself, or - Gen^l Wilkinson, and if any or how late the last - information or communications from Him. I need not mention - how disagreeable a state of Suspense is, nor, to move your - sympathy, to say more than that the anxiety and concern, - exhibited for His safety, by an affectionate Mother and - Wife, is Great. By way of consolation to the former, I have - thought proper to extend the probable Period of His return, - untill this month; Mrs Pike is now begining to lose - confidence in my opinion, consequently my consolating - influence is daily lesening, and Her afflictions - increasing---- - - I decline in Strength as regular as Time paseth and However - Painfull the reflection, It is by the Bounty of my Country - Life is rendered Tolerable - - Be assured I write in Pain as well that I am - - Your Very Obed^t. Serv^t. - Zeb^n Pike---- - - Henry Dear born - Secretary of War---- - -This letter is endorsed in General Dearborn's handwriting: "Tell him -his son is safe, and is probably at Natchitoches"--where Captain Pike -had in fact arrived July 1st, 1807. The Secretary of War at the same -time ordered attention to the matter of Major Pike's pay and -allowances, mentioned in the letter. - -[M-4] Historical Register of the United States Army, from its -Organization, September 29th, 1789, to September 29th, 1889. By F. B. -Heitman, Clerk, Adjutant General's office, War Department, Washington, -D. C., 1890, 1 vol., large 8vo, pp. 890. I make a point throughout -Pike of identifying as far as possible the officers whose names appear -in his text, giving in brief their official records, and doing the -same for those who are mentioned in my own writing. I am indebted to -Heitman's invaluable work for most such matter. - -[M-5] This officer was a native of Canada, appointed to the army from -New York. He had served as a captain in the Revolutionary Army when he -was commissioned as a major of Infantry Sept. 29th, 1789; he was -assigned to the 1st Infantry Mar. 3d, 1791, and arranged to the Second -sub-Legion Sept. 4th, 1792; he became lieutenant-colonel commandant of -the First sub-Legion Feb. 18th, 1793, and colonel of the 1st Infantry -Apr. 1st, 1802; his death occurred Apr. 11th, 1803. (Another John -Francis Hamtramck, of Indiana, was a sergeant in the 1st Infantry -before he became a cadet at West Point, where he was graduated in -1819, continued to be an officer of the army till 1848, and died in -1858.) - -[M-6] The time when these officers were together at Camp Alleghany must -have been prior to Aug. 19th, 1801, when Lieutenant-Colonel David -Strong died. He was from Connecticut; entered the army as a captain of -Infantry Sept. 29th, 1789; became major of the 2d Infantry Nov. 4th, -1791; was arranged to the Second sub-Legion Sept. 4th, 1792; promoted -to be lieutenant-colonel Feb. 19th, 1793, and held that rank in the 2d -Infantry from Nov. 1st, 1796.--Moses Porter, of Massachusetts, had -served in the Revolutionary Army when he became a lieutenant of -Artillery Sept. 29th, 1789; he was promoted to be captain Nov. 4th, -1791; major May 26th, 1800, and colonel Mar. 12th, 1812; brevetted -brigadier-general Sept. 10th, 1813, for distinguished services, and -died April 14th, 1822.--Edward D. Turner, of Massachusetts, entered -the army as an ensign of the 2d Infantry Mar. 4th, 1791; became a -lieutenant July 13th, 1792; captain, Nov. 11th, 1793, and was brigade -inspector from Nov. 1st, 1799, to April 1st, 1802; he resigned Nov. -30th, 1805.--Richard Humphrey Greaton (not "Graeton"), of -Massachusetts, was made a lieutenant in the 2d Infantry Mar. 4th, -1791; became captain Feb. 18th, 1793, and was honorably discharged -June 1, 1802.--Theodore Sedgwick, of Massachusetts, became an ensign -of the 2d Infantry Mar. 4th, 1791; lieutenant, July 30th, 1792; -captain, Dec. 29th, 1793, and was honorably discharged June 1st, -1802.--Peter Shoemaker, of Pennsylvania, appointed ensign in the 2d -Infantry Apr. 11th, 1793; became lieutenant Mar. 3d, 1793; captain, -Mar. 3d, 1799, and was honorably discharged June 1st, 1802.--Nanning -John Visscher, of New York, entered the army as an ensign in the 2d -Infantry Mar. 16th, 1792; became lieutenant May 1st, 1794, and captain -Nov. 1st, 1799; he was honorably discharged June 1st, 1802; was -afterward made a captain of Rifles Apr. 26th, 1809; resigned Nov. -30th, 1812, and died Dec. 12th, 1821.--Archibald Gray (not "Grey"), of -Virginia, was made an ensign of Infantry Mar. 7th, 1792; lieutenant, -May 1st, 1794; was assigned to the 2d Infantry Nov. 1st, 1796; became -captain Nov. 1st, 1799, and resigned July 1st, 1801.--Jesse Lukens, of -Pennsylvania, was appointed an ensign in the Second sub-Legion Feb. -23d, 1793; became lieutenant Oct. 1st, 1793; was assigned to the 2d -Infantry Nov. 1st, 1796; promoted to be captain Mar. 3d, 1799, and -died May 21st, 1801.--Ferdinand Leigh Claiborne, of Virginia, was made -an ensign of the First sub-Legion Feb. 23d, 1793; lieutenant, June -30th, 1794; assigned to the 1st Infantry Nov. 1st, 1796; promoted to -be captain Oct. 23d, 1799, and resigned Jan. 1st, 1802; he was -afterward a colonel and brigadier-general of Volunteers in the war of -1812-14, and died in February, 1815.--Benjamin Rand, of Massachusetts, -became ensign in the Second sub-Legion May 12th, 1794; was assigned to -the 2d Infantry as such Nov. 1, 1796; became lieutenant Mar. 10th, -1797, and resigned Dec. 29th, 1800.--John Whipple became an ensign in -the 2d Infantry July 10th, 1797; a lieutenant Mar. 2d, 1799; was -transferred to the 1st Infantry April 1st, 1802; made captain Apr. -11th, 1803, and resigned Jan. 31st, 1807.--Peter Shiras (not -"Schiras"), of Pennsylvania, was commissioned a second lieutenant of -the 2d Infantry Mar. 3d, 1799; promoted to be first lieutenant Nov. -22d, 1799, and honorably discharged June 1, 1802.--Moses Hook, of -Massachusetts, was commissioned as a second lieutenant of the 1st -Infantry Mar. 3d, 1799; became first lieutenant Oct. 23d, 1799; -captain, Mar. 13th, 1805, and resigned Jan. 20th, 1808. (Merriwether -Lewis intended to take this officer with him, in the event of William -Clark's declination of his invitation: on this point, see Lewis and -Clark, ed. 1893, pp. xxiv, lxx.)--John Wilson, of Pennsylvania, was a -second lieutenant of the 2d Infantry from Mar. 3d, 1799, to Nov. 22d, -1799, when he became first lieutenant; he was honorably discharged -June 1st, 1802.--James Dill, of Pennsylvania, was made a second -lieutenant of the 2d Infantry Mar. 3d, 1799; a first lieutenant Nov. -1st, 1799, honorably discharged June 15th, 1800.--The above named -Lieut. Williams is not fully identified.--Henry B. Brevoort, of New -York, was commissioned a second lieutenant of the 3d Infantry Feb. -16th, 1801, and retained as an ensign in the 2d Infantry May 7th, 1802 -(?); was second lieutenant of the same July 1st, 1802; first -lieutenant Nov. 30th, 1805; captain May 1st, 1811; major in the 45th -Infantry Apr. 15th, 1814, and honorably discharged June 15th, -1815.--Daniel Hughes, of Maryland, was made an ensign of the 9th -Infantry Jan. 8th, 1799; a second lieutenant Mar. 3d. 1799, and -honorably discharged June 15th, 1800; he was reappointed second -lieutenant of the 2d Infantry Feb. 16th, 1801, and transferred to the -1st Infantry Apr. 1st, 1802; became first lieutenant Mar. 23d, 1805; -captain, Dec. 15th, 1808; major of the 2d Infantry Feb. 21st, 1814 and -was honorably discharged June 15th, 1815.--The Lieutenant "Hilton" is -probably an error.--For James B. Many see note 38, p. 210.--Uriah -Blue, of Virginia, was commissioned as a second lieutenant of the 8th -Infantry July 12th, 1799, and honorably discharged June 15th, 1800; -reappointed as a second lieutenant in the 2d Infantry Feb. 16th, 1801, -and honorably discharged again June 1st, 1802; reappointed as first -lieutenant of the 7th Infantry May 3d, 1808; became captain May 9th, -1809; major of the 39th Infantry Mar. 13th, 1814; was honorably -discharged June 15th, 1815, and reinstated Dec. 2d, 1815, as a captain -in the 8th Infantry, to rank as such from May 9th, 1809, and with -brevet of major from Mar. 13th, 1814; he resigned Dec. 3d, 1816, and -died in May, 1836.--Edward Butler, of Pennsylvania, had been a captain -in the levies of 1791, when he was made a captain of Infantry Mar. -5th, 1792, and arranged to the Fourth sub-Legion Sept. 4th, 1892; -acted as adjutant and inspector from July 18th, 1793, to May 13th, -1794; was assigned to the 4th Infantry Nov. 1st, 1796, and transferred -to the 2d Infantry April 1st, 1802; died May 9th, 1803. (For Williams -and "Hilton" see these names in Index.) - -[M-7] John De Barth Walbach was a native of Germany, who was -commissioned from Pennsylvania as a lieutenant of Light Dragoons Jan. -8th, 1799, and honorably discharged June 15th, 1800. He re-entered the -service as a lieutenant of the 2d Artillerists and Engineers Feb. -16th, 1801, and was retained in the Artillerists April 1st, 1802; he -became captain Jan. 31st, 1806, and was transferred to the Corps of -Artillery May 12th, 1814. During the war he served in various -capacities, with ranks of major and colonel, and was among those -retained as captain of Artillery May 17th, 1815. He became major Apr. -25th, 1818, and was transferred to the 1st Artillery June 1st, 1821; -promoted to be lieutenant-colonel May 30th, 1832, and to be colonel of -the 4th Artillery March 19th, 1842. He was repeatedly brevetted for -gallant, meritorious, and faithful services; his latest brevet being -that of brigadier-general Nov. 11th, 1823. General Walbach died June -10th, 1857. An unpublished letter before me, from General Wilkinson to -the Secretary of War, dated St. Louis, Nov. 26th, 1805, refers to -Lieutenant Walbach in the following terms: "In every cavalry -arrangement I must beg leave to call Walbach to your recollection, as -the ablest horse officer in America, not only in the choice of -animals, but in equipping, training, forming, and heading them to -action." - -Alexander Macomb was commander-in-chief of the army from May 29th, -1828, to his death, June 25th, 1841. He was brevetted major-general -Sept. 11th, 1814, and received the thanks of Congress Nov. 3d, 1814, -for distinguished and gallant conduct at Plattsburgh, N. Y. General -Macomb entered the army as a cornet of Light Dragoons Jan. 10th, 1799; -attained the rank of brigadier-general in 1814, and major-general in -1828. - -Jonathan Williams, of Massachusetts, was appointed from Pennsylvania a -major of the 2d Artillerists and Engineers Feb. 16th, 1801; he served -as inspector of fortifications from Dec. 14th, 1801, to June 1st, -1802, and was retained as major of Engineers April 1st, 1802. He -resigned June 20th, 1803; was made lieutenant-colonel and chief -engineer Apr. 19th, 1805, and promoted to be colonel Feb. 23d, 1808. -He resigned again July 31st, 1812, and died May 20th, 1815. - -[M-8] Note by Lieutenant J. R. Williams, May 19th, 1894: "The foregoing -is a literal copy of the rough draft of John R. Williams' letter to -Major Holton. The fair copy of course is not in my possession, but I -have reason to believe the fair copy must contain several of the -peculiar errors of the writer, whose early education was wholly -French, so that he never, as far as I know, capitalized the initial -letters of such words as _English_ and _French_. John R. Williams, -writer of this letter, entered the 2d U. S. Infantry as a cadet early -in 1800, but appears to have resigned in about six months. He was -subsequently connected with the same regiment for about a year in the -capacity of agent of the contractor for commissary supplies. The title -of general, by which he is well remembered in Detroit, was acquired by -his connection with the militia of Michigan for about 40 years, as -adjutant-general and major-general." - -[M-9] This is a remarkable book, which has had a very exceptional -career, the end of which is not even yet. Robert Dodsley, b. 1703, d. -Sept. 23d, 1764, was in early life a menial in the service of Hon. -Mrs. Lowther, but became by his natural talents a wealthy publisher, -as well as a prolific author. In the latter capacity he was scarcely -rated as more than a hack writer in his lifetime, during which he was -probably never suspected of having written an immortal book. Whether -this was a stroke of his own genius or not is questionable; but he -should have the full credit of the book, until an extraneous source of -his inspiration can be instanced. The OEconomy of Human Life was -first published anonymously in a collection of miscellanies, in 1745, -and soon acquired great repute, in part at least due to the fact that -it was commonly attributed to Lord Chesterfield. It ran through many -editions in various styles, some of them finely illustrated. The -earlier ones all preserved the author's anonymity, and in more than -one reprint of very late years his incognito is formally preserved. An -anonymous edition of 1806, which I have handled, consists only of Book -I, Parts i-vii, entitled as follows: The | OEconomy | of | Human -Life, | translated from an | Indian Manuscript, | written by an -Ancient Bramin | -- | London: | printed for W. Gardiner, Pall-Mall; -and | Vernor, Hood, and Sharpe, Poultny. | 1 vol., 12mo, pp. i-x, 1 -leaf, pp. 1-116, and many engr. head- and tail-pieces. Another, of -1809, with the authorship avowed, is as follows: The | Economy | of | -Human Life. | In Two Books. | -- | By Robert Dodsley. | -- | With six -elegant engravings by Mackenzie, | from designs by Craig and Unwins. | --- | London: | [etc., 4 lines of printers' names] | -- | 1809. 1 vol., -16mo, 1 prel. leaf, vignette title, pp. i-xviii, 5-188; portrait and -memoir of Dodsley, and 5 full-page engravings; said to have been pub. -Jan. 31st, 1809. The copy Pike had was most probably one of the cheap -American reprints which appeared about this time. Dodsley's book -consists of philosophical and moral reflections or aphorisms in curt, -sententious style, of distinctly Oriental flavor; it is feigned to be -based upon manuscripts of immense antiquity, discovered in the capital -of Tibet by an emissary of the emperor of China, and in some occult -manner received in England and translated. I liked the thing so much -that I lately brought out a new edition myself, preserving the -author's feigned origin of the book and his own incognito, transposing -some of the pieces, adding a new "foreword" in antique style, and -modifying the title to--Kuthumi: The True and Complete Oeconomy of -Human Life, etc. In this guise Dodsley's book forms No. 5 of my Biogen -Series, Boston, Estes and Lauriat, 1886; 1 vol., small square 8vo, pp. -i-x, 1-123. - -[M-10] Another good editorial version of Pike's Mississippi itinerary -appeared in the tract entitled: Materials for the Future History of -Minnesota, etc., the same being Part V. of the publications of the -Minn. Hist. Soc., 8vo, St. Paul, 1856, pp. about 142. The five -separately issued Parts, dating 1850-56, were in 1872 collectively -republished in a second edition, forming Vol. I. of the Collections of -the Minn. Hist. Soc., 8vo, pp. 1-519. In this reprint the article is -entitled: Pike's Explorations in Minnesota, 1805-06, and occupies pp. -368-416, or 48 pages, being thus about as extensive as the text of -1807. The editor says that his aim was "to make judicious extracts" -from Pike's journal; and he certainly succeeded in this intention. The -editor's name does not appear; but as the footnotes which explain or -amplify various points in the text are signed "W.," an initial of Mr. -J. Fletcher Williams, who was secretary of the society and editor of -its publications for many years, the work is presumably his, being -thus an authentic as well as a genuine account of the Mississippi -voyage. This publication therefore ranks side by side with the -original unknown editor's performance, though the two are separated by -an interval of half a century. - -[M-11] Thomas W. Field, Essay towards an Indian Bibl., etc., 1873, p. -313, throws the mantle of charity in the following terms: "Captain -Pike could be charged with no association in this misdemeanor, as the -work was edited and published in his absence on duty." This is true -only in so far as the forerunner of the Mississippi voyage is -concerned (see above, p. xxxiii,) and conveys an erroneous impression -regarding Pike's princeps edition, in which the plagiarism occurs. For -Pike wrote this book himself, and necessarily knew everything there -was in it. See beyond, p. lxi, where the circumstances under which it -was prepared are adduced from hitherto unpublished documents. - -[M-12] "REPORT OF A LATE OCCURRENCE IN THIS PROVINCE OF NEW MEXICO. - -"On the 15th of February last two Indians of the Ute tribe arrived and -brought into my presence an Anglo-American, a young man of genteel -appearance [joben de presencia fina, as Dr. Robinson appeared to be], -whose statement I heard, and even invited him to dine with me, in -order to satisfy myself he was what I supposed him to be as to -intelligence and good breeding. - -"I did not believe him, and suspecting the truth of his statement as -to the nature of his escort, I sent out a small regular detachment and -some provincial troops to reconnoitre, who not only fell in with a -first lieutenant with six soldiers in an excellent fort built on the -Conejos not far from its junction with the Del Norte, two days' -journey from the capital of this province, towards the same direction -[acia el mismo rumbo], but overcoming the obstacles of deep snows, -succeeded in finding the sergeant [Meek] and corporal [meaning Private -Miller] belonging to the detachment, making a total of thirteen -soldiers, two of them [Dougherty and Sparks] with frozen feet, and -having lost nearly all their fingers. [Compare p. 510, beyond.] - -"On the 2d of March last, the above-mentioned lieutenant, whose name -is Mungo-Meri-Paike, came in with six men of his detachment, and on -the 18th the remainder of his men. Without any resistance they -acquiesced in the notification made them, that being in my territory -it was absolutely necessary that they should appear before me. - -"They did so, with their arms, and I assured them that in no respect -should they be treated as prisoners, saving only that, in accordance -with the orders of the general commanding, it was necessary that they -should appear before him and fully explain the objects of their -mission. - -"Paike showed me his instructions from General Wilkinson, his journal, -and a rough sketch of a chart of all the rivers and countries he had -explored. - -"Placing all which papers in a trunk, of which I requested him to -retain the key, I delivered the same to the officer [Capitan Antonio -D'Almansa: see p. 611] commanding his escort--not to be opened save in -presence of the aforesaid general commanding. - -"From all which circumstances, from what I gathered from Robinson and -from the above named officer, I conclude distinctly that the -expedition of July [last--1806] was specially designed to conciliate -two Indian tribes in behalf of the U. S. Government, to make them -liberal presents, and drawing them into friendship, treaty, and -commerce, to place them under the Anglo-American protection--all this -referring especially to the Comanche tribe, the most powerful of our -allies. - -"Furthermore, that the Anglo-American government considers as included -within the boundaries of Louisiana all the rivers that empty into the -Mississippi, and all the territories that extend to the head waters of -the Rio Colorado [meaning that Red r. which is the branch of the -Arkansaw now called the Canadian r. as Meline explains in a footnote], -which rises a few leagues from the pueblo of Taos further to the north -in this province; that it is their intention this year or the next to -establish forts or settlements on all these rivers, in order to -monopolize all the trade and commerce carried on by a large number of -tribes in the province. - -"The detachment of Anglo-American troops referred to, went to -Chihuahua to appear before the commanding general, guarded by an -escort, being allowed to carry their arms and ammunition on account of -the danger of hostile Apaches on the route. - -"All of which is submitted to the general commanding, reminding him of -the representation made in my communication of the 4th of January last -year, concerning the necessity of placing this province on a -respectable footing, and of having frontier posts and positions thrown -out to oppose the ambitious views of the aforesaid Anglo-American -government, exposing also the wretchedly defenseless condition -actually existing, and so found for years past by whomsoever has been -in command. - -"SANTA FÉ, _April 1st, 1807_." - -[M-13] The reputation of General Wilkinson for honor and patriotism went -under a cloud, from which it has never been cleared, in connection -with the Burr conspiracy. He was technically acquitted, from lack of -evidence to convict; but the proof that he was a mercenary traitor -subsequently appeared. General Winfield Scott is reported to have -called him an "unprincipled imbecile." Governor Adams has lately put -the case bluntly, but as I believe truthfully, Address, July 12th, -1894, p. 20: "General Wilkinson, then in command of the western army, -has been proven by recently discovered documents to have been 'a -rascal through and through.' He was in sympathy and perhaps in the -confidence of Burr. Wearing the uniform and sword of an American -officer, he was in the pay of Spain, and conspired to create out of -the colonies west of the mountains a Spanish empire. It was Wilkinson -who sent Pike west; but no matter how guilty may have been his -superior in command, Pike certainly had no knowledge of his schemes. -Pike was innocent of any stain. He was a patriot as pure and sincere -as Wilkinson was a traitor base and ungrateful." While there is no -question of Pike's perfervid patriotism, we may doubt that his -lamb's-wool was as white as all that; in fact, Governor Adams himself -goes on to say: "It is not entirely clear that Pike was as innocent as -he professed of his whereabouts when captured in the San Luis valley. -Some believe he knew he was upon the Rio Grande, and not upon the Red -[river], as he pretended to believe. But had it been the Red instead -of the Rio Grande, what right had he to be on the south [_i. e._, -west] side of the river, his rude fort being several miles south -[west] of the stream and under an abeyance treaty upon forbidden -ground? The Spaniards believed that Pike carried secret orders to -intrude upon their territory." - -This belief of the Spaniards was well founded: compare my notes at p. -499, p. 504, p. 563, and p. 571. Colonel Meline corroborates the -general tenor and purport of these observations, in the following -terms, p. 313 of his work already cited: - -"Wilkinson's bulky and diffuse published memoirs may be searched in -vain for any information concerning Pike's expedition, and his silence -on the subject is, to say the least, suggestive. - -"Of his complicity with Burr but little doubt is now entertained and -proofs are not wanting of the existence of his designs upon Mexico, -from the period of his note in cypher to Governor Gayoso de Lemas -(February, 1797), and his dealings with [Captain Philip] Nolan, down -to the conspiracy of 1806. - -"It has been stated that Wilkinson himself planned the exploring -expedition of Pike, in order to obtain for his own purposes a more -perfect knowledge of the country, and that he availed himself of his -official authority to have it ordered by the Government. [See note 2, -p. 564.] - -"The Mississippi Herald of September 15th, 1807, published the -affidavit of Judge Timothy Kibby, of the Louisiana Territory, acting -Chief Justice of the Court of Common Pleas for the district of St. -Charles. - -"The affidavit sets forth-- - -"'That in confidential conversation the general (Wilkinson) speaking -of Pike's Expedition, upon inquiry, replied, smiling, that it was of a -_secret nature_, and that Lieutenant Pike himself was not apprised of -the ultimate object of the expedition, but that his destination was -Santa Fé, treating with the Indians as he advanced. - -"'He (Wilkinson) intimated that Lieutenant Pike had been dispatched by -_his orders_; that the plan was his own, not emanating from the -Government, but assented to.'" - -With these pertinent particulars I could--but need not--forbear to -couple the racy characterization given by Mr. Prentis, p. 198 of his -Kansan Abroad: - -"The military officer in charge of the western country at that time -[1806] was General James Wilkinson, a restless, bombastic, fussy old -gentleman, with a rare faculty for getting into difficulties. As an -officer in the Revolutionary army, he was concerned in the [Thomas] -Conway cabal, a plot to supplant Washington, and place in his stead -General Gates, an officer who afterwards got beautifully thrashed by -the British at Camden. He turned up in the army, after being for a -while a merchant at Lexington, Kentucky, in 1791; received Louisiana -from the French in 1803, and contrived to get mixed up in the Burr -business to such an extent that nobody knows to this day, I believe, -which side he was on. He was investigated, court-martialed, and -acquitted; went into the war of 1812; served on the Canadian frontier; -was a conspicuous failure; was court-martialed again [subjected to a -court of inquiry], and again acquitted; and finally, there being in -those days no chance to enter the lecture field, he wrote his memoirs -[1816], and retired to the City of Mexico, where he died. - -"General James Wilkinson in his day was probably the subject of more -uncomplimentary remarks than any man of his caliber in the country, -and I deem it no more than justice to say for him, that, with all his -faults, he was the steadfast friend of Zebulon M. Pike." - -I may add, that left-hand compliments to this notorious individual -have been current from that day to this, and are still in order. One -of the keenest of them is attributed to a distinguished contemporary -who, it is said, favored his appointment to the command of the army as -the only way of "keeping him out of mischief"! - -The following is the formal official record of General Wilkinson: Of -Maryland, appointed from that State colonel and adjutant-general in -Gates' army during the Revolutionary war with brevet of -brigadier-general from Nov. 6th, 1777; lieutenant-colonel commanding -the 2d Infantry Oct. 22d, 1791; brigadier-general March 5th, 1792; -commander-in-chief of the army from Dec. 15th, 1796, to July 13th, -1798, and from June 15th, 1800, to Jan. 27th, 1812; brevet -major-general, July 10th, 1812; major-general, Mar. 2d, 1813; -honorably discharged June 15th, 1815; died Dec. 28th, 1825. - -[M-14] Thomas Hunt of Massachusetts had been a captain in the -Revolutionary Army when he was made a captain of the 2d Infantry Mar. -4th, 1791; he was assigned to the Second sub-Legion Sept. 4th, 1792; -was promoted to a majority Feb. 18th, 1793; was in the 1st Infantry -Nov. 1st, 1796; made a lieutenant-colonel Apr. 1st, 1802, and colonel -April 11th, 1803; he died Aug. 18th, 1808, and it fell to the part of -Pike to announce his death to the War Department. - -[M-15] Baron Friedrich Wilhelm August Heinrich Ferdinand von Steuben, -the Prussian-American general, b. Magdeburg, Nov. 17th, 1730, d. New -York, Nov. 28th, 1794. He entered the Prussian military service in -1744, rising to the rank of adjutant-general and staff officer, 1762; -was distinguished at Prague, Rossbach, Kunersdorf, 1757-1759, and at -the siege of Schweidnitz; and later, in 1764, was grand marshal to the -Prince of Hohenzollern. In 1777 he came to the United States, reaching -Portsmouth, N. H., Dec. 1st; was appointed by Washington -inspector-general, with the rank of major-general, May 5th, 1778; and -reorganized the army. He served at Monmouth and Yorktown, and was a -member of the court-martial on André in 1780. His manual for the army -was approved by Congress in 1779; in 1790 he was voted by that body a -life-annuity of $2,500; and New York State gave him 16,000 acres near -Utica. Various places are named Steuben or Steubenville. Life by F. -Bowen in Sparks' Amer. Biogr. Life by F. Kapp, N. Y., 1860. - -[M-16] Cited from Hezekiah Niles' Weekly Register, III. No. 9, pp. 133, -134, Oct. 31st, 1812, into which it was copied from the Philadelphia -Aurora, headed "15th Regiment. To the editor of the Aurora." I copy -literally from the Register, but with modern punctuation, as I shall -do in subsequent extracts from the same source. - -[M-17] William Swan appears in Heitman's Register as major of the "2 -inf" in 1813. On the supposition that this is a typographical error -for 21st Infantry, which was engaged at York, the record may be given -as that of the above-named Major Swan: Of Massachusetts, appointed -from that State a first lieutenant of the 15th Infantry Jan. 8th, -1799; honorably discharged June 15th, 1800; reappointed first -lieutenant in the 1st Infantry Feb. 16th, 1801; captain Nov. 15th, -1807; deputy-quartermaster-general April 3d, 1812; major "2 inf" _i. e._ -21st Infantry, Jan. 20th, 1813; colonel and quartermaster-general -from Aug. 7th, 1813, to June 9th, 1814; lieutenant-colonel 20th -Infantry March 13th, 1814; transferred to the 4th Infantry Apr. 30th, -1814; resigned June 9th, 1814; died June 12th, 1872. - -[M-18] Eleazar Wheelock Ripley, b. Hanover, N. H., Apr. 15th, 1782, -appointed from Massachusetts lieutenant-colonel 21st Infantry Mar. -12th, 1812; colonel of that regiment Mar. 12th, 1813; brigadier-general -Apr. 15th, 1814; and brevet major-general July 25th, 1814, for -gallantry at the battle of Niagara Falls. On the 3d of November, 1814, -he was by resolution of Congress given a gold medal in testimony of -appreciation of his conduct at the battles of Chippewa, Niagara, and -Erie. He resigned Feb. 1st, 1820; was Democratic member of Congress -from Louisiana 1835-39: and d. in that State Mar. 2d, 1839. - -[M-19] Of New York, appointed a captain of the 29th Infantry Mar. 24th, -1813; resigned Mar. 14th, 1814. - -[M-20] From the narrative of Lieutenant Fraser, one of Pike's staff -officers, who was wounded by his side; it was published in the -Philadelphia Aurora, and copied into Niles' Register of Saturday, June -5th, 1813, IV. pp. 225, 226, from which I quote. - -[M-21] Benjamin Forsyth of North Carolina originally entered the army as -a second lieutenant of the 6th Infantry Apr. 24th, 1800, but was very -soon honorably discharged. He was reappointed as a captain of Rifles -July 1st, 1808; became major Jan. 20th, 1813, and was brevetted -lieutenant-colonel for distinguished services Feb. 6th, 1813. He was -killed in action at Odelltown, N. Y., June 28th, 1814. "The death of -this officer was in harmony with his character. After the taking of -York, finding that the official account of the action gave him little -credit for the conspicuous share he had in it, he became sick and -inactive, and kept himself in sullen seclusion among his own men, -apparently determined that no services should be rendered, either by -himself or his men, since they were so inadequately rewarded, or so -unduly estimated. He did little or nothing the residue of that -campaign. Having been promoted before the following campaign, he, on -the Champlain frontier, was put in command of an advanced party, which -was to engage the enemy and then fall back, in order to draw him into -an ambush. Lieutenant-Colonel Forsyth was the last man who was likely -to fulfill such a plan. As soon as he opened the fight with the enemy, -his instructions to fall back were either forgotten or ignored. His -spirit could not brook a retreat, even for an ultimate advantage. He -rushed on and fell, and lost, with his life, all the success that -would probably have followed more prudence, or strict obedience to -orders." (Whiting, _l. c._) - -[M-22] William King of Delaware was appointed from Maryland a second -lieutenant of the 5th Infantry May 3d, 1808; became first lieutenant -Sept. 30th, 1810; captain, 15th Infantry, July 2d, 1812; major, Mar. -3d, 1813. He was made colonel of the 3d Rifles Feb. 21st, 1814; was -transferred to the 4th Infantry May 17th, 1815; honorably discharged -June 1st, 1821; and died Jan. 1st, 1826. - -Two officers named John Scott, both of New Jersey, both of the 15th -Infantry, appear in Heitman's Register. The captain above said was -appointed as such Mar. 12th, 1812, resigned Aug. 15th, 1813, and died -in 1839. The other John Scott did not rise above the rank of a -subaltern. Possibly a single record in this case appears as those of -two different persons. For Captain White Youngs, see note 37, p. -cix. Captain Hoppock's name appears as "Hopsock" in some places. - -[M-23] Alexander C. W. Fanning of Massachusetts was appointed to a -cadetship at West Point April 14th, 1809; he was made a first -lieutenant of the 3d Artillery Mar. 12th, 1812, and promoted to be a -captain Mar. 13th, 1813; transferred to the corps of artillery May -12th, 1814, and to the 2d Artillery June 2d, 1821; became major of the -4th Artillery Nov. 3d, 1832, and lieutenant-colonel Sept. 16th, 1838; -he was transferred to the 2d Artillery May 24th, 1841. On Aug. 15th, -1814, he was brevetted major for gallant conduct at Fort Erie; on Aug. -15th, 1824, he was brevetted lieutenant-colonel for 10 years' faithful -service in one grade; and on Dec. 31st, 1834, he was brevetted colonel -for gallant and meritorious conduct in battle near the Withlachoochee -under General Clinch and in defending Fort Mellon, Florida; he died -Aug. 18th, 1846. - -[M-24] John Walworth of New York was appointed from that State first -lieutenant of the 6th (_sic_--Heitman) Infantry Dec. 12th, 1808; was -made captain Jan. 1st, 1810; major of the 33d Infantry May 1st, 1814, -and honorably discharged June 15th, 1815. - -[M-25] Abram Eustis of Virginia, appointed from Massachusetts a captain -of light artillery May 3d, 1808, became major of the same Mar. 15th, -1810. He was transferred to the 4th Artillery June 1st, 1821; became -lieutenant-colonel of the 2d Artillery May 8th, 1822; was transferred -to the 4th Artillery Aug. 2d, 1822; became colonel of the 1st -Artillery Nov. 17th, 1834, and brigadier-general June 30th, 1834; he -died June 27th, 1843. - -[M-26] David Riddle of Pennsylvania, who had been appointed a second -lieutenant of the 15th Infantry, was at that time a first lieutenant, -ranking as such from Mar. 13th, 1813. He was transferred to the 8th -Infantry May 17th, 1815, and became captain Dec. 3d, 1816, when he had -already been twice brevetted, for distinguished services at the battle -of Niagara Falls, and for gallant conduct in the sortie from Fort -Erie. - -[M-27] Lossing says elsewhere that one of the officers told him his own -life was probably saved by the bulk of this sergeant, who was blown -against him. This officer was Lieutenant Fraser, one of Pike's aids, -whose own words on the subject are given in Niles' Register, IV. p. -226: "The general had just aided in removing a wounded man with his -own hands, and sat down on a stump with a British sergeant we had -taken prisoner, whom the general, with Captain Nicholson and myself, -were examining, when the explosion took place. The general, Captain -Nicholson, and the British sergeant, were all mortally wounded, and I -was so much bruised in the general crash, that it is surprising how I -survived; probably I owe my escape to the corpulency of the British -serjeant, whose body was thrown upon mine by the concussion." - -[M-28] The figures, vary, as usual. The official report gives our loss -as 38 killed and 222 wounded by the explosion; which, added to 14 -killed and 32 wounded in battle gives a total of 306 army casualties -on our side in the whole affair; to which add 3 killed and 11 wounded -of the navy, making 320 in all. Whiting's figures for killed and -wounded, on the American side, are 320; on the British, in killed, -wounded, and taken, "about 500." The tabular exhibit in Niles' -Register, IV. p. 238, is as follows: - - _Killed in battle_--1 subaltern, 2 sergeants, 1 corporal, 2 - musicians, 8 privates 14 - - _Killed by the explosion_--1 captain, 4 sergeants, 4 - corporals, 29 privates 38 - --- - _Total killed_ 52 - === - _Wounded in battle_--2 captains (one since dead), 1 - subaltern, 3 sergeants, 4 corporals, 22 privates 32 - - _Wounded by the explosion_--1 brig. gen. (since dead), 1 - aid-de-camp, 1 acting aid, 1 volunteer aid, 6 captains, 6 - subalterns, 11 sergeants, 9 corporals, 1 musician, 185 - privates 222 - --- - _Total wounded_ 254 - === - _Total killed and wounded_ 306 - - _Of the navy_--2 midshipmen and 1 seaman killed, 11 seamen - wounded 14 - === - _Total killed and wounded_ 320 - -[M-29] The statement that General Sheaffe's retreat was so precipitate -that he lost his papers is confirmed by General Dearborn in a letter -to the Secretary of War, dated Niagara, May 3d, 1813 (Niles' Register, -_ibid._): "York was a magazine for Niagara, Detroit, etc., and -notwithstanding the immense amount which was destroyed by them, we -found more than we could bring off. Gen. Sheaffe's baggage and papers -fell into my hands; the papers are a valuable acquisition. A SCALP was -found in the executive and legislative council chamber, suspended near -the speaker's chair in company with the mace, etc." - -This "scalp incident," as it came to be known, and as I may remark in -passing, became the probably groundless pretext for a storm of abuse -of British methods of warfare. In the feverish state of public opinion -which the startling climax of the battle of York excited almost to -frenzy, it was regarded as adding insult to injury, and furthermore -taken as a proof that our dead and wounded would be handed over by the -British to their Indian allies, to be dealt with according to the -customs of savage warfare. Thus, the usually temperate and judicious -editor of the Register could permit himself to say: "The '_mace_' is -the emblem of authority, and the _scalp's_ position near it is truly -symbolical of the _British_ power in _Canada_. Horrible and infamous -wretches! But the reign of the murderers is nearly at an end," p. 190. -And again, p. 259, with "scalp" in large capitals, and various other -typographical methods of relieving his state of mind: "BRITISH -HUMANITY. When major-general _Dearborn_ stated that a SCALP had been -found in the _government-house of Upper Canada_, suspended near the -mace, the emblem of power, many persons affected to doubt the fact; -but most men believed, not only because General Dearborn had stated -the circumstance, but because it was strictly characteristic of the -_British_ government, which is as base and deliberately wicked as any -other in the civilized world. But the horrible fact is further and -conclusively established by commodore _Chauncey_, whose testimony will -not be disputed, openly, by those who _pretended_ to disbelieve gen. -Dearborn. Let us hear no more of '_British humanity_ and -_religion_'--nor permit these great attributes to be lavished upon -murderous villains. It is fact, horrible fact, that the legislature of -'_unoffending Canada_' did sanction (by hanging up in their hall, in -evidence of their authority, a _human scalp_) the murders of our -people by the savages. Great Heaven!" This senseless outburst -concludes with the following letter: - - _U. S. Ship Madison, Sackett's Harbor, 4th June, 1813._ - -SIR--I have the honor to present to you by the hands of lieutenant -Dudley, the British standard taken at York on the 27th of April last, -_accompanied by the mace, over which hung a human_ SCALP.--Those -articles were taken from the _parliament house_ by one of my officers -and presented to me. The scalp I caused to be presented to general -Dearborn, who I believe still has it in his possession. I also send by -the same gentleman, one of the British flags taken at Fort George on -the 27th of May. - -I have the honor to be, very respectfully, sir, your most obedient -humble servant, - - [Signed] ISAAC CHAUNCEY. - - HONORABLE WM. JONES, - _Secretary of the Navy, Washington_. - -It may be here added that the practice of scalping is by no means -confined to the aborigines of North America. Among white Americans, it -has never been too uncommon to excite remark, still less reprobation; -and though it may not have been a regularly recognized and practiced -incident of our warfare with Indians of late years, one has only to -read any of the chronicles of our earlier warrings with Indian, -English, or French foes, to perceive the entire reciprocity of the -custom. It fell into desuetude, on our part, less from any disrepute -than from sheer indifference. Instances are not lacking during the -last century, of our skinning whole Indians, tanning their hides, and -manufacturing the leather into various articles of use or joy; and -when we ceased to scalp as a rule, it was simply because scalps were -no longer worth the trouble of taking. I am myself no stranger to -reeking Apache scalps, taken both by citizens and soldiery. I knew a -young officer of our army who, in a spirit of bravado, fastened an -Apache scalp to each of his spurs, and wore them with the long black -hair trailing at his heels during one of his hunts for Indians in -Arizona. The legislature of one of our Territories passed a bill -offering a reward of a certain sum of money for every "buck" Indian's -scalp which should be produced, and a certain other sum for the scalp -of "anything in the shape of an Indian," _i. e._, woman or child. The -British general, Henry Hamilton, while lieutenant-governor at Detroit, -had a regular tariff of prices both for prisoners and for scalps which -he purchased from Indians and from white renegades, thus acquiring the -soubriquet of "the hair-buying general," applied to him by George -Rogers Clark. Honors are so easy on this score that they do not count -in the game of war which the British played with their American -cousins. - -[M-30] "A distinguished officer who was in the battle at York states -that, as he passed the general, after he was wounded, he cried, 'Push -on, my brave fellows, and avenge your general.' As he was breathing -his last the British standard was brought to him; he made a sign to -have it placed under his head, and died without a groan." - -[M-31] Cromwell Pearce of Pennsylvania. He had been appointed from his -State a first lieutenant of the 10th Infantry May 3d, 1799, and -honorably discharged June 15th, 1800. His colonelcy of the 16th -Infantry dated from April 25th, 1813; he was honorably discharged June -15th, 1815, and died April 2d, 1852. - -[M-32] George E. Mitchell of Maryland became major of the 3d Artillery -May 1st, 1812, and lieutenant-colonel Mar. 3d, 1813; he was brevetted -colonel May 5th, 1814, for gallant conduct in repelling the attack of -British forces on Fort Oswego, N. Y.; transferred to corps of -Artillery May 12th, 1814, and to 3d Artillery June 1st, 1821; he -resigned the same day, and died June 28th, 1832. - -[M-33] Samuel S. Conner of New Hampshire was appointed from -Massachusetts major of the 21st Infantry, Mar. 12th, 1812; became -lieutenant-colonel of the 13th Infantry Mar. 12th, 1813; resigned July -14th, 1814, and died Dec. 17th, 1820. - -[M-34] Benjamin Nicholson of Maryland, who languished of his wounds till -May 13th. He had been appointed a first lieutenant of the 14th -Infantry Mar. 12th, 1812, and promoted to be captain Mar. 3d, 1813. - -[M-35] This is but a mild sample of the epithets by which Sheaffe's -firing of the magazine was stigmatized in phrases current at a time -when invective was invoked till language was exhausted. In the cooling -of overheated passions a sense of humor stole in to the relief of -surcharged feelings, and execration of the shocking catastrophe -subsided from the sublime to the ridiculous. "And it was not until -after the capture of Fort George," says Whiting, p. 306, "that this -explosion ceased to haunt, like a dreadful spectre, the American army. -While preparing for that capture, it seemed to be a settled conviction -in the mind of the commander-in-chief, that explosions were to be the -ordinary means of warfare with the British. On the point opposite Fort -Niagara, and not far from Fort George, stood a lighthouse, which was -made of stone. The common impression was, that these stones were to be -discharged upon our heads whenever we made the attempt to land; it -being taken for granted that we should land between that and a -neighboring wood, as the open grounds there were completely commanded -by the guns of our fort. Many British deserters came over during the -month which elapsed between the capture of York and Fort George. The -question asked of each was, whether the lighthouse were _mined_. No -answer intimated that it was; still it was determined to land at a -safe distance from it, though the point chosen afforded the enemy an -excellent cover, where his batteries could be silenced only by our -vessels. After the landing had been effected, the lighthouse was -approached by stragglers with much caution, until some one, more hardy -or more curious than the rest, entering into it, found within its -recesses, instead of a Guy Fawkes, some women and children, who had -taken shelter there from the dangers of the day." - -[M-36] Henry H. Van Dalsem of New Jersey became a captain of the 15th -Infantry Mar. 12th, 1812, and resigned June 15th, 1815. - -Joseph L. Barton of New Jersey was appointed a first lieutenant of the -15th Infantry Mar. 12th, 1812, promoted to be captain July 30th, 1812, -and honorably discharged June 15th, 1815. - -Abraham Godwin of New Jersey was appointed a second lieutenant of the -15th Infantry Mar. 12th, 1812, became first lieutenant May 13th, 1813, -and was honorably discharged June 15th, 1815. - -[M-37] White Youngs of New York was made a captain of the 15th Infantry -Mar. 12th, 1812; transferred to the 8th Infantry May 17th, 1815; -brevetted major Sept. 11th, 1814, for gallant conduct at Plattsburgh, -N. Y.; resigned Mar. 8th, 1819, and died Dec. 8th, 1822. - -[M-38] Daniel E. Burch of New Jersey was appointed from that State -ensign in the 15th Infantry Oct. 7th, 1812; became third lieutenant -Mar. 13th, 1813, and second lieutenant Aug. 15th, 1813: he was -regimental paymaster from Mar. 12th, 1814, to June 15th, 1815, and -honorably discharged June 15th, 1815. He re-entered the service as -second lieutenant of the 7th Infantry Jan. 5th, 1817; became first -lieutenant June 7th, 1817, and captain June 30th, 1820; acted as -assistant quartermaster from Oct. 25th, 1822, to June 27th, 1831; -resigned Apr. 30th, 1833, and died May 8th, 1833. - - - - -PIKE'S EXPEDITIONS. - - - - -Part I. - -_THE MISSISSIPPI VOYAGE._ - - - - -CHAPTER I. - -ITINERARY: ST. LOUIS TO ST. PAUL, AUGUST 9TH-SEPTEMBER 21ST, 1805. - - -Sailed from my encampment, near St. Louis, at 4 p. m., on Friday, the -9th of August, 1805, with one sergeant, two corporals, and 17 -privates, in a keel-boat 70 feet long, provisioned for four months. -Water very rapid. Encamped on the east side of the river, at the head -of an island.[I-1] - -_Aug. 10th._ Embarked early; breakfasted opposite the mouth of the -Missouri, near Wood creek.[I-2] About 5 p. m. a storm came on from the -westward; the boat lay-to. Having gone out to march with two men -behind a cluster of islands, one of my soldiers swam a channel in the -night, to inform me that the boat had stopped during the storm. I -remained on the beach all night. Distance 28½ miles.[I-3] - -_Sunday, Aug. 11th._ In the morning the boat came up and stopped -opposite the Portage De Sioux.[I-4] We here spread out our baggage to -dry; discharged our guns at a target, and scaled out our -blunderbusses. Dined at the cave below the Illinois, at the mouth of -which river we remained some time. From the course of the Mississippi, -the Illinois[I-5] might be mistaken for a part of it. Encamped on the -lower point of an island,[I-6] about six miles above the Illinois; were -much detained by passing the east side of some islands above the -Illinois; and were obliged to get into the water and haul the boat -through. - -_Aug. 12th._ In the morning made several miles to breakfast; about 3 -o'clock p. m. passed Buffaloe [Cuivre or Copper river] or riviere au -Boeuf, about five miles above which commences a beautiful cedar -cliff. Having passed this, the river expands to nearly two miles in -width, and has four islands, whose lowest points are nearly parallel; -these we called the Four Brothers. Encamped on the point of the east -one. It rained very hard all night. Caught one catfish. Distance 29¾ -miles.[I-7] - -_Aug. 13th._ Late before we sailed; passed a vast number of islands; -left one of our dogs on shore; were much detained by sand-bars, and -obliged to haul our boat over several of them; observed several -[Indian] encampments which had been lately occupied. Rained all day. -Distance 27 miles.[I-8] - -_Aug. 14th._ Hard rain in the morning; but a fine wind springing up, -we put off at half-past six o'clock. Passed a camp of Sacs, consisting -of three men with their families. They were employed in spearing and -scaffolding a fish,[I-9] about three feet in length, with a long flat -snout; they pointed out the channel, and prevented us from taking the -wrong one. I gave them a small quantity of whisky and biscuit; and -they, in return, presented me with some fish. Sailed on through a -continuation of islands for nearly 20 miles; met a young gentleman, -Mr. Robedoux,[I-10] by whom I sent a letter to St. Louis; encamped on an -island; caught 1,375 small fish. Rained all day. Distance 28 -miles.[I-11] - -_Aug. 15th._ Still raining in the morning. From the continued series -of wet weather, the men were quite galled and sore. Met a Mr. -Kettletas of N. Y., who gave me a line to Mr. Fisher of the Prairie -Des Chein [du Chien]. Passed a small [elsewhere named Bar] river to -the W., with a sand-bar at its entrance; also, passed Salt [elsewhere -called Oahahah] river, which I do not recollect having seen on any -chart; it is a considerable stream, and at high water is navigable for -at least 200 miles. Left another dog. Distance 26 miles.[I-12] - -_Aug. 16th._ Embarked early, but were so unfortunate as to get fast on -a log; and did not extricate ourselves until past eleven o'clock, -having to saw off a log under the water. At three o'clock arrived at -the house of a Frenchman, situate on the W. side of the river, -opposite Hurricane island. His cattle appeared to be in fine order, -but his corn in a bad state of cultivation. About one mile above his -house, on the W. shore, is a very handsome hill, which he informed me -was level on the top, with a gradual descent on either side, and a -fountain of fine water. This man likewise told me that two men had -been killed on the Big Bay, or Three Brothers; and desired to be -informed what measures had been taken in consequence thereof. Caught -three catfish and one perch. Encamped four miles above the house. -Distance 18 miles.[I-13] - -_Aug. 17th._ Embarked and came on remarkably well; at ten o'clock -stopped for breakfast, and in order to arrange our sail; when the wind -served, we put off and continued under easy sail all day. Passed three -batteaux. Distance 39 miles.[I-14] - -_Sunday, Aug. 18th._ Embarked early; about eleven o'clock passed an -Indian camp, on the E. side. They fired several guns; but we passed -without stopping. Very hard head winds part of the day. Caught six -fish. Distance 23 miles.[I-15] - -_Aug. 19th._ Embarked early and made fine way; but at nine o'clock, in -turning the point of a sand-bar, our boat struck a sawyer. At the -moment, we did not know it had injured her; but, in a short time -after, discovered her to be sinking; however, by thrusting oakum into -the leak and bailing, we got her to shore on a bar, where, after -entirely unloading, we with great difficulty keeled her sufficiently -to cut out the plank and put in a new one. This at the time I -conceived to be a great misfortune; but upon examination we discovered -that the injury resulting from it was greater than we were at first -induced to believe; for upon inspection we found our provisions and -clothing considerably damaged. The day was usefully and necessarily -employed in assorting, sunning, and airing those articles. One of my -hunters, Sparks, having gone on shore to hunt, swam the river about -seven miles above and killed a deer; but finding we did not come, he -returned down the river, and joined us by swimming. Whilst we were at -work at our boat on the sand-beach, three canoes with Indians passed -on the opposite shore. They cried, "How-do-you-do?" wishing us to give -them an invitation to come over; but receiving no answer they passed -on. We then put our baggage on board and put off, designing to go -where the young man had killed the deer; but after dark we became -entangled among the sand-bars, and were obliged to stop and encamp on -the point of a beach. Caught two fish. Distance 14 miles.[I-16] - -_Aug. 20th._ Arrived at the foot of the rapids De Moyen[I-17] at seven -o'clock. Although no soul on board had passed them, we commenced -ascending them immediately. Our boat being large and moderately -loaded, we found great difficulty. The river all the way through is -from three-quarters to a mile wide. The rapids are 11 miles long, with -successive ridges and shoals extending from shore to shore. The first -has the greatest fall and is the most difficult to ascend. The -channel, a bad one, is on the east side in passing the two first bars; -then passes under the edge of the third; crosses to the west, and -ascends on that side, all the way to the Sac village. The shoals -continue the whole distance. We had passed the first and most -difficult shoal, when we were met by Mr. Wm. Ewing,[I-18] who I -understand is an agent appointed to reside with the Sacs to teach them -the science of agriculture, with a French interpreter, four chiefs and -15 men of the Sac nation, in their canoes, bearing a flag of the -United States. They came down to assist me up the rapids; took out 14 -of my heaviest barrels, and put two of their men in the barge to pilot -us up. Arrived at the house of Mr. Ewing, opposite the village, at -dusk. The land on both sides of the rapids is hilly, but a rich soil. -Distance 16 miles.[I-19] - -_Aug. 21st._ All the chief men of the village came over to my -encampment, where I spoke to them to the following purport: - -"That their great father, the president of the United States, wishing -to be more intimately acquainted with the situation, wants, &c., of -the different nations of the red people, in our newly acquired -territory of Louisiana, had ordered the general to send a number of -his young warriors in different directions, to take them by the hand, -and make such inquiries as might afford the satisfaction required. - -"That I was authorized to choose situations for their trading -establishments; and wished them to inform me if that place would be -considered by them as central. - -"That I was sorry to hear of the murder which had been committed on -the river below; but, in consideration of their assurances that it was -none of their nation, and the anxiety exhibited by them on the -occasion, I had written to the general and informed him of what they -had said on the subject. - -"That in their treaty they engaged to apprehend all traders who came -among them without license; for that time, I could not examine their -traders on this subject; but that, on my return, I would make a -particular examination. - -"That if they thought proper they might send a young man in my boat, -to inform the other villages of my mission," etc. - -I then presented them with some tobacco, knives, and whisky. They -replied to the following purport: - -"That they thanked me for the good opinion I had of their nation, and -for what I had written the general. That themselves, their young -warriors, and the whole nation, were glad to see me among them. - -"That as for the situation of the trading-houses, they could not -determine, being but a part of the nation. With respect to sending a -young man along, that if I would wait until to-morrow, they would -choose one out. And finally, that they thanked me for my tobacco, -knives, and whisky." - -Not wishing to lose any time, after writing to the general[I-20] and my -friends, I embarked and made six miles above the village. Encamped on -a sand-bar. One canoe of savages passed. - -_Aug. 22d._ Embarked at 5 o'clock a. m. Hard head winds. Passed a -great number of islands. The river very wide and full of sand-bars. -Distance 23 miles.[I-21] - -_Aug. 23d._ Cool morning. Came on 5¼ miles, where, on the west shore, -there is a very handsome situation for a garrison. The channel of the -river passes under the hill, which is about 60 feet perpendicular, -and level on the top; 400 yards in the rear there is a small prairie -of 8 or 10 acres, which would be a convenient spot for gardens; and on -the east side of the river there is a beautiful prospect over a large -prairie, as far as the eye can extend, now and then interrupted by -groves of trees. Directly under the rock is a limestone spring, which, -after an hour's work, would afford water amply sufficient for the -consumption of a regiment. The landing is bold and safe, and at the -lower part of the hill a road may be made for a team in half an hour. -Black and white oak timber in abundance. The mountain continues about -two miles, and has five springs bursting from it in that distance. - -Met four Indians and two squaws; landed with them; gave them one quart -of _made_ whisky [_i. e._, about three-fourths water], a few biscuit, -and some salt. I requested some venison of them; they pretended they -could not understand me; but after we had left them they held up two -hams, and hallooed and laughed at us in derision. Passed nine horses -on shore, and saw many signs of Indians. Passed a handsome prairie on -the east side, and encamped at its head.[I-22] - -Three batteaux from Michilimackinac stopped at our camp. We were told -they were the property of Mr. Myers Michals. We were also informed -that the largest Sac village was about 2½ miles out on the prairie; -and that this prairie was called halfway from St. Louis to the prairie -Des Cheins. - -_Aug. 24th._ In the morning passed a number of islands. Before dinner, -Corporal Bradley and myself took our guns and went on shore; we got -behind a savannah, by following a stream we conceived to have been a -branch of the river, but which led us at least two leagues from -it.[I-23] My two favorite dogs, having gone out with us, gave out in the -prairie, owing to the heat, high grass, and want of water; but, -thinking they would come on, we continued our march. We heard the -report of a gun, and supposing it to be from our boat, answered it; -shortly after, however, we passed an Indian trail, which appeared as -if the persons had been hurried, I presume at the report of our guns; -for with this people all strangers are enemies. Shortly after we -struck the river, and the boat appeared in view; stayed some time for -my dogs; two of my men volunteered to go in search of them. Encamped -on the west shore, nearly opposite a chalk bank. My two men had not -yet returned, and it was extraordinary, as they knew my boat never -waited for any person on shore. They endeavored to strike the -Mississippi ahead of us. We fired a blunderbuss at three different -times, to let them know where we lay. Distance 23½ miles.[I-24] - -_Sunday, Aug. 25th._ Stopped on the Sand-bank prairie on the E. side -[about New Boston, Ill.], from which you have a beautiful prospect of -at least 40 miles down the river, bearing S. 38° E. Discovered that -our boat leaked very fast; but we secured her inside so completely -with oakum and tallow as nearly to prevent the leak. Fired a -blunderbuss every hour, all day, as signals for our men. Passed the -river Iowa. Encamped at night on the prairie marked Grant's prairie -[below Muscatine, Ia.]. The men had not yet arrived. Distance 28 -miles.[I-25] - -_Aug. 26th._ Rain, with a very hard head wind. Towed our boat about -nine miles, to where the river Hills join the Mississippi. Here I -expected to find the two men I had lost, but was disappointed. The -mercury in Reamur [Réaumur] at 13°; whereas yesterday it was 26° [=61¼ -and 90½ Fahr.] Met two peroques [_sic_[I-26]] full of Indians, who -commenced hollowing [hallooing] "How do you do?" etc. They then put to -shore and beckoned us to do likewise, but we continued our course. -This day very severe on the men. Distance 28½ miles.[I-27] - -_Aug. 27th._ Embarked early; cold north wind; mercury 10°; the wind so -hard ahead that we were obliged to tow the boat all day. Passed one -peroque of Indians; also, the Riviere De Roche [Rock river], late in -the day. Some Indians, who were encamped there, embarked in their -canoes and ascended the river before us. The wind was so very strong -that, although it was down the stream, they were near sinking. -Encamped about four miles above the Riviere De Roche, on the W. shore. -This day passed a pole on a prairie on which five dogs were hanging. -Distance 22 miles.[I-28] - -_Aug. 28th._ About an hour after we had embarked, we arrived at the -camp of Mr. James Aird,[I-29] a Scotch gentleman of Michilimackinac. He -had encamped, with some goods, on the beach, and was repairing his -boat, which had been injured in crossing [descending] the rapids of -the Riviere De Roche, at the foot of which we now were. He had sent -three boats back for the goods left behind. Breakfasted with him and -obtained considerable information. Commenced ascending the rapids. -Carried away our rudder in the first rapid; but after getting it -repaired, the wind raised and we hoisted sail. Although entire -strangers, we sailed through them with a perfect gale blowing all the -time; had we struck a rock, in all probability we would have bilged -and sunk. But we were so fortunate as to pass without touching. Met -Mr. Aird's boats, which had pilots, fast on the rocks. Those shoals -are a continued chain of rocks, extending in some places from shore to -shore, about 18 miles in length.[I-30] They afford more water than those -of De Moyen, but are much more rapid. - -_Aug. 29th._ Breakfasted at the Reynard village, above the rapids; -this is the first village of the Reynards.[I-31] I expected to find my -two men here, but was disappointed. Finding they had not passed, I lay -by until four o'clock, the wind fair all the time. The chief informed -me, by signs, that in four days they could march to Prairie Des -Cheins; and promised to furnish them with mockinsons [moccasins], and -put them on their route. Set sail and made at least four knots an -hour. I was disposed to sail all night; but the wind lulling, we -encamped on the point of an island, on the W. shore. Distance 20 -miles.[I-32] - -_Aug. 30th._ Embarked at five o'clock; wind fair, but not very high. -Sailed all day. Passed four peroques of Indians. Distance 43 -miles.[I-33] - -_Aug. 31st._ Embarked early. Passed one peroque of Indians; also, two -encampments, one on a beautiful eminence on the W. side of the river. -This place had the appearance of an old town. Sailed almost all day. -Distance 31½ miles.[I-34] - -_Sunday, Sept. 1st._ Embarked early; wind fair; arrived at the lead -mines [Dubuque, Ia.] at twelve o'clock. A dysentery, with which I had -been afflicted several days, was suddenly checked this morning, which -I believe to have been the occasion of a very violent attack of fever -about eleven o'clock. Notwithstanding it was very severe, I dressed -myself, with an intention to execute the orders of the general -relative to this place. We were saluted with a field-piece, and -received with every mark of attention by Monsieur [Julien] Dubuque, -the proprietor. There were no horses at the house, and it was six -miles to where the mines were worked; it was therefore impossible to -make a report by actual inspection. I therefore proposed 10 queries, -on the answers to which my report was founded.[I-35] - -Dined with Mr. D., who informed me that the Sioux and Sauteurs[I-36] -were as warmly engaged in opposition as ever; that not long since the -former killed 15 Sauteurs, who on the 10th of August in return killed -10 Sioux, at the entrance of the St. Peters [Minnesota river]; and -that a war-party, composed of Sacs, Reynards, and Puants -[Winnebagoes[I-37]], of 200 warriors, had embarked on an expedition -against the Sauteurs; but that they had heard that the chief, having -had an unfavorable dream, persuaded the party to return, and that I -would meet them on my voyage. At this place I was introduced to a -chief called Raven, of the Reynards. He made a very flowery speech on -the occasion, which I answered in a few words, accompanied by a small -present. - -I had now given up all hopes of my two men, and was about to embark -when a peroque arrived, in which they were, with a Mr. Blondeau, and -two Indians whom that gentleman had engaged above the rapids of Stony -[Rock] river. The two soldiers had been six days without anything to -eat except muscles [mussels], when they met Mr. James Aird, by whose -humanity and attention their strength and spirits were in a measure -restored; and they were enabled to reach the Reynard village, where -they met Mr. B. The Indian chief furnished them with corn and shoes, -and showed his friendship by every possible attention. I immediately -discharged the hire of the Indians, and gave Mr. Blondeau a passage to -the Prairie des Cheins. Left the lead mines at four o'clock. Distance -25 miles.[I-38] - -_Sept. 2d._ After making two short reaches, we commenced one which is -30 miles in length; the wind serving, we just made it, and encamped on -the E. side [near Cassville, Wis.], opposite the mouth of Turkey -river. In the course of the day we landed to shoot pigeons. The moment -a gun was fired, some Indians, who were on the shore above us, ran -down and put off in their peroques with great precipitation; upon -which Mr. Blondeau informed me that all the women and children were -frightened at the very name of an American boat, and that the men held -us in great respect, conceiving us very quarrelsome, much for war, and -also very brave. This information I used as prudence suggested. We -stopped at an encampment about three miles below the town, where they -gave us some excellent plums. They dispatched a peroque to the -village, to give notice, as I supposed, of our arrival. It commenced -raining about dusk, and rained all night. Distance 40 miles.[I-39] - -_Sept. 3d._ Embarked at a pretty early hour. Cloudy. Met two peroques -of family Indians; they at first asked Mr. Blondeau "if we were for -war, or if going to war?" I now experienced the good effect of having -some person on board who could speak their language; for they -presented me with three pair of ducks and a quantity of venison, -sufficient for all our crew for one day; in return, I made them some -trifling presents. Afterward met two peroques, carrying some of the -warriors spoken of on the 2d inst. They kept at a great distance, -until spoken to by Mr. B., when they informed him that their party had -proceeded up as high as Lake Pepin without effecting anything. It is -surprising what a dread the Indians in this quarter have of the -Americans. I have often seen them go round islands to avoid meeting my -boat. It appears to me evident that the traders have taken great pains -to impress upon the minds of the savages the idea of our being a very -vindictive, ferocious, and warlike people. This impression was perhaps -made with no good intention; but when they find that our conduct -toward them is guided by magnanimity and justice, instead of operating -in an injurious manner, it will have the effect to make them reverence -at the same time they fear us. Distance 25 miles.[I-40] - -_Sept. 4th._ Breakfasted just below the Ouiscousing [Wisconsin -river[I-41]]. Arrived at the Prairie des Cheins about eleven o'clock; -took quarters at Captain Fisher's, and were politely received by him -and Mr. Frazer. - -_Sept. 5th._ Embarked about half-past ten o'clock in a Schenectady -boat, to go to the mouth of the Ouiscousing, in order to take the -latitude [which I found to be 43° 28' 8" N.], and look at the -situation of the adjacent hills for a post. Was accompanied by Judge -Fisher, Mr. Frazer, and Mr. Woods. We ascended the hill[I-42] on the -west side of the Mississippi, and made choice of a spot which I -thought most eligible, being level on the top, having a spring in the -rear, and commanding a view of the country around. A shower of rain -came on which completely wet us, and we returned to the village -without having ascended the Ouiscousing as we intended. Marked four -trees with A. B. C. D., and squared the sides of one in the center. -Wrote to the general. - -_Sept. 6th._ Had a small council with the Puants, and a chief of the -lower band of the Sioux. Visited and laid out a position for a post, -on a hill called the Petit Gris [Grès],[I-43] on the Ouiscousing, three -miles above its mouth. Mr. Fisher, who accompanied me, was taken very -sick, in consequence of drinking some water out of the Ouiscousing, -The Puants never have any white interpreters, nor have the Fols Avoin -[Folle Avoine (Menominee)[I-44]] nation. In my council I spoke to a -Frenchman and he to a Sioux, who interpreted to some of the Puants. - -_Sept. 7th._ My men beat all the villagers jumping and hopping. Began -to load my new boats. - -_Sept. 8th._ Embarked at half-past eleven o'clock in two batteaux. The -wind fair and fresh. I found myself very much embarrassed and cramped -in my new boats, with provision and baggage. I embarked two -interpreters, one to perform the whole voyage, whose name was Pierre -Rosseau [Rousseau[I-45]]; and the other named Joseph Reinulle -[Reinville[I-46]], paid by Mr. Frazer to accompany me as high as the -falls of St. Anthony. Mr. Frazer[I-47] is a young gentleman, clerk to -Mr. Blakely of Montreal; he was born in Vermont, but has latterly -resided in Canada. To the attention of this gentleman I am much -indebted; he procured for me everything in his power that I stood in -need of, dispatched his bark canoes, and remained himself to go on -with me. His design was to winter with some of the Sioux bands. We -sailed well, came 18 miles, and encamped on the W. bank.[I-48] - -I must not omit here to bear testimony to the politeness of all the -principal inhabitants of the village. There is, however, a material -distinction to be made in the nature of those attentions: The kindness -of Messrs. Fisher, Frazer, and Woods, all Americans, seemed to be the -spontaneous effusions of good will, and partiality to their -countrymen; it extended to the accommodation, convenience, exercises, -and pastimes of my men; and whenever they proved superior to the -French, openly showed their pleasure. But the French Canadians -appeared attentive rather from their natural good manners than sincere -friendship; however, it produced from them the same effect that -natural good will did in the others. - -_Sept. 9th._ Embarked early. Dined at Cape Garlic, or at Garlic river; -after which we came on to an island on the E. side, about five miles -below the river [Upper] Iowa, and encamped. Rained before sunset. -Distance 28 miles.[I-49] - -_Sept. 10th._ Rain still continuing, we remained at our camp. Having -shot at some pigeons, the report was heard at the Sioux lodges, the -same to whom I spoke on the 6th at the Prairie [du Chien]; when La -Fieulle [Feuille[I-50]] sent down six of his young men to inform me -"that he had waited three days with meat, etc., but that last night -they had began to drink, and that on the next day he would receive me -with his people sober." I returned him for answer "that the season was -advanced, time was pressing, and if the rain ceased I must go on." Mr. -Frazer and the interpreter went home with the Indians. We embarked -about one o'clock.[I-51] Frazer, returning, informed me that the chief -acquiesced in my reasons for pressing forward, but that he had -prepared a pipe (by way of letter) to present me, to show to all the -Sioux above, with a message to inform them that I was a chief of their -new fathers, and that he wished me to be treated with friendship and -respect. - -On our arrival opposite the lodges, the men were paraded on the bank, -with their guns in their hands. They saluted us with ball with what -might be termed three rounds; which I returned with three rounds from -each boat with my blunderbusses. This salute, although nothing to -soldiers accustomed to fire, would not be so agreeable to many -people; as the Indians had all been drinking, and as some of them even -tried their dexterity, to see how near the boat they could strike. -They may, indeed, be said to have struck on every side of us. When -landed, I had my pistols in my belt and sword in hand. I was met on -the bank by the chief, and invited to his lodge. As soon as my guards -were formed and sentinels posted, I accompanied him. Some of my men -who were going up with me I caused to leave their arms behind, as a -mark of confidence. At the chief's lodge I found a clean mat and -pillow for me to sit on, and the before-mentioned pipe on a pair of -small crutches before me. The chief sat on my right hand, my -interpreter and Mr. Frazer on my left. After smoking, the chief spoke -to the following purport: - -"That, notwithstanding he had seen me at the Prairie [du Chien], he -was happy to take me by the hand among his own people, and there show -his young men the respect due to their new father [President -Jefferson]. That, when at St. Louis in the spring, his father [General -Wilkinson] had told him that if he looked down the river he would see -one of his young warriors [Pike] coming up. He now found it true, and -he was happy to see me, who knew the Great Spirit was the father of -all, both the white and the red people; and if one died, the other -could not live long. That he had never been at war with their new -father, and hoped always to preserve the same understanding that now -existed. That he now presented me with a pipe, to show to the upper -bands as a token of our good understanding, and that they might see -his work and imitate his conduct. That he had gone to St. Louis on a -shameful visit, to carry a murderer; but that we had given the man his -life, and he thanked us for it. That he had provided something to eat, -but he supposed I could not eat it; and if not, to give it to my young -men." - -I replied: "That, although I had told him at the Prairie my business -up the Mississippi, I would again relate it to him." I then mentioned -the different objects I had in view with regard to the savages who had -fallen under our protection by our late purchase from the Spaniards; -the different posts to be established; the objects of these posts as -related to them; supplying them with necessaries; having officers and -agents of government near them to attend to their business; and above -all to endeavor to make peace between the Sioux and Sauteurs. "That it -was possible on my return I should bring some of the Sauteurs down -with me, and take with me some of the Sioux chiefs to St. Louis, there -to settle the long and bloody war which had existed between the two -nations. That I accepted his pipe with pleasure, as the gift of a -great man, the chief of four bands, and a brother; that it should be -used as he desired." I then eat of the dinner he had provided, which -was very grateful. It was wild rye [rice?] and venison, of which I -sent four bowls to my men. - -I afterward went to a dance, the performance of which was attended -with many curious maneuvers. Men and women danced indiscriminately. -They were all dressed in the gayest manner; each had in the hand a -small skin of some description, and would frequently run up, point -their skin, and give a puff with their breath; when the person blown -at, whether man or woman, would fall, and appear to be almost -lifeless, or in great agony; but would recover slowly, rise, and join -in the dance. This they called their great medicine; or, as I -understood the word, dance of religion, the Indians believing that -they actually puffed something into each others' bodies which -occasioned the falling, etc. It is not every person who is admitted; -persons wishing to join them must first make valuable presents to the -society to the amount of $40 or $50, give a feast, and then be -admitted with great ceremony. Mr. Frazer informed me that he was once -in the lodge with some young men who did not belong to the club; when -one of the dancers came in they immediately threw their blankets over -him, and forced him out of the lodge; he laughed, but the young -Indians called him a fool, and said "he did not know what the dancer -might blow into his body." - -I returned to my boat; sent for the chief and presented him with two -carrots of tobacco, four knives, half a pound of vermilion, and one -quart of salt. Mr. Frazer asked liberty to present them some rum; we -made them up a keg between us, of eight gallons--two gallons of whisky -[the rest water]. Mr. Frazer informed the chief that he dare not give -them any without my permission. The chief thanked me for all my -presents, and said "they must come free, as he did not ask for them." -I replied that "to those who did not ask for anything, I gave freely; -but to those who asked for much, I gave only a little or none." - -We embarked about half-past three o'clock; came three miles, and -encamped on the W. side.[I-52] Mr. Frazer we left behind, but he came up -with his two peroques about dusk. It commenced raining very hard. In -the night a peroque arrived from the lodges at his camp. During our -stay at their camp, there were soldiers appointed to keep the crowd -from my boats, who executed their duty with vigilance and rigor, -driving men, women, and children back, whenever they came near my -boats. At my departure, their soldiers said, "As I had shaken hands -with their chief, they must shake hands with my soldiers." In which -request I willingly indulged them. - -_Sept. 11th._ Embarked at seven o'clock, although raining. Mr. -Frazer's canoes also came on until nine o'clock. Stopped for -breakfast and made a fire. Mr. Frazer stayed with me; finding his -peroques not quite able to keep up, he dispatched them. We embarked; -came on until near six o'clock, and encamped on the W. side. Saw -nothing of his peroques after they left us. Supposed to have come 16 -miles this day.[I-53] Rain and cold winds, all day ahead. The river has -never been clear of islands since I left Prairie Des Chein. I -absolutely believe it to be here two miles wide. Hills, or rather -prairie knobs, on both sides. - -_Sept. 12th._ It raining very hard in the morning, we did not embark -until ten o'clock, Mr. Frazer's peroques then coming up. It was still -raining, and was very cold; passed the Racine[I-54] river; also a -prairie called Le Cross [La Crosse], from a game of ball played -frequently on it by the Sioux Indians. This prairie is very handsome; -it has a small square hill, similar to some mentioned by Carver. It is -bounded in the rear by hills similar to [those of] the Prairie Des -Chein. - -On this prairie Mr. Frazer showed me some holes dug by the Sioux, when -in expectation of an attack, into which they first put their women and -children, and then crawl themselves. They were generally round and -about 10 feet in diameter; but some were half-moons and quite a -breastwork. This I understood was the chief work, which was the -principal redoubt. Their modes of constructing them are: the moment -they apprehend or discover an enemy on the prairie, they commence -digging with their knives, tomahawks, and a wooden ladle; and in an -incredibly short space of time they have a hole sufficiently deep to -cover themselves and their families from the balls or arrows of the -enemy. They [enemies] have no idea of taking those subterraneous -redoubts by storm, as they would probably lose a great number of men -in the attack; and although they might be successful in the event, it -would be considered a very imprudent action. - -Mr. Frazer, finding his canoes not able to keep up, stayed at this -prairie to organize one of them, intending then to overtake us. Came -on three miles further.[I-55] - -_Sept. 13th._ Embarked at six o'clock. Came on to a sand-bar, and -stopped to dry my things. At this place Mr. Frazer overtook me. We -remained here three hours; came on to the foot of the hills, at le -Montaigne qui Trompe a l'Eau [_sic_], which is a hill situated on the -river. Rain all day, except about two hours at noon. Passed Black -river. Distance 21 miles.[I-56] - -_Sept. 14th._ Embarked early; the fog so thick we could not -distinguish objects 20 yards. When we breakfasted we saw nothing of -Mr. Frazer's canoes. After breakfast, at the head of an island, met -Frazer's boats. Wind coming on fair, we hoisted sail, and found that -we were more on an equality with our sails than our oars. The birch -canoes sailed very well, but we were able to outrow them. Met the -remainder of the war-party of the Sacs and Reynards before noted, -returning from their expedition against the Sauteurs. I directed my -interpreter to ask "How many scalps they had taken?" They replied, -"None." He added, "They were all squaws"; for which I reprimanded him. -Passed the mountain which stands in the river; or, as the French term -it, which soaks in the river. Came to the Prairie Le Aisle -[_sic_[I-57]], on the west. - -Mr. Frazer, Bradley, Sparks, and myself, went out to hunt. We crossed -first a dry flat prairie; when we arrived at the hills we ascended -them, from which we had a most sublime and beautiful prospect. On the -right, we saw the mountains which we passed in the morning and the -prairie in their rear; like distant clouds, the mountains at the -Prairie Le Cross; on our left and under our feet, the valley between -the two barren hills through which the Mississippi wound itself by -numerous channels, forming many beautiful islands, as far as the eye -could embrace the scene; and our four boats under full sail, their -flags streaming before the wind. It was altogether a prospect so -variegated and romantic that a man may scarcely expect to enjoy such a -one but twice or thrice in the course of his life. I proposed keeping -the hills until they led to the river, encamping and waiting the next -day for our boats; but Mr. Frazer's anxiety to get to the boats -induced me to yield. After crossing a very thick bottom, fording and -swimming three branches of the river, and crossing several morasses, -we at twelve o'clock arrived opposite our boats, which were encamped -on the east side. We were brought over. Saw great sign of elk, but had -not the good fortune to come across any of them. My men saw three on -the shore. Distance 21 miles.[I-58] - -_Sunday, Sept. 15th._ Embarked early. Passed the riviere Embarrass -[Zumbro river], and Lean Clare [_i. e._, l'Eau Claire; Clear, White -Water, or Minneiska river], on the W., which is navigable 135 miles. -Encamped opposite the river Le Boeuf [Beef or Buffalo river], on the -W. shore.[I-59] At the head of this river the Chipeways inhabit, and -it is navigable for peroques 40 or 50 leagues. Rained in the -afternoon. Mr. Frazer broke one of his canoes. Came about three miles -further than him. Distance 25 miles. - -_Sept. 16th._ Embarked late, as I wished Mr. Frazer to overtake me, -but came on very well. His canoes overtook us at dinner, at the grand -encampment [7½ miles[I-60]] below Lake Pepin. We made the sandy -peninsula on the east at the entrance of Lake Pepin, by dusk; passed -the Sauteaux [Chippewa[I-61]] river on the east, at the entrance of the -lake. After supper, the wind being fair, we put off with the -intention to sail across; my interpreter, Rosseau, telling me that he -had passed the lake twenty times, but never once in the day; giving as -a reason that the wind frequently rose and detained them by day in the -lake. But I believe the traders' true reason generally is their fears -of the Sauteurs, as these have made several strokes of war at the -mouth of this river, never distinguishing between the Sioux and their -traders. However, the wind serving, I was induced to go on; and -accordingly we sailed, my boat bringing up the rear, for I had put the -sail of my big boat on my batteau, and a mast of 22 feet. Mr. Frazer -embarked on my boat. At first the breeze was very gentle, and we -sailed with our violins and other music playing; but the sky afterward -became cloudy and quite a gale arose. My boat plowed the swells, -sometimes almost bow under. When we came to the Traverse -[crossing-place], which is opposite Point De Sable [Sandy point], we -thought it most advisable, the lake being very much disturbed and the -gale increasing, to take harbor in a bay on the east. One of the -canoes and my boat came in very well together; but having made a fire -on the point to give notice to our boats in the rear, they both ran on -the bar before they doubled it, and were near foundering; but by -jumping into the lake we brought them into a safe harbor. Distance 40 -miles.[I-62] - -_Sept. 17th._ Although there was every appearance of a very severe -storm, we embarked at half-past six o'clock, the wind fair; but before -we had hoisted all sail, those in front had struck theirs. The wind -came on hard ahead. The sky became inflamed, and the lightning seemed -to roll down the sides of the hills which bordered the shore of the -lake. The storm in all its grandeur, majesty, and horror burst upon -us in the Traverse, while making for Point De Sable; and it required -no moderate exertion to weather the point and get to the windward side -of it. Distance three miles.[I-63] - -There we found Mr. Cameron,[I-64] who had sailed from the prairie -[Prairie du Chien] on the 5th; he had three bark canoes and a wooden -one with him. He had been lying here two days, his canoes unloaded and -turned up for the habitation of his men, his tents pitched, and -himself living in all the ease of an Indian trader. He appeared to be -a man of tolerable information, but rather indolent in his habits; a -Scotchman by birth, but an Englishman by prejudice. He had with him a -very handsome young man, by the name of John Rudsdell, and also his -own son, a lad of fifteen. - -The storm continuing, we remained all day. I was shown a point of -rocks [Maiden Rock, 400 feet high[I-65]] from which a Sioux maiden -cast herself, and was dashed into a thousand pieces on the rocks -below. She had been informed that her friends intended matching her to -a man she despised; having been refused the man she had chosen, she -ascended the hill, singing her death-song; and before they could -overtake her and obviate her purpose she took the lover's leap! Thus -ended her troubles with her life. A wonderful display of sentiment in -a savage! - -_Sept. 18th._ Embarked after breakfast. Mr. Cameron, with his boats, -came on with me. Crossed the lake, sounded it, and took an observation -at the upper end. I embarked in one of his canoes, and we came up to -Canoe river,[I-66] where there was a small band of Sioux under the -command of Red Wing, the second war chief in the nation. He made me a -speech and presented a pipe, pouch, and buffalo skin. He appeared to -be a man of sense, and promised to accompany me to St. Peters [the -Minnesota river]; he saluted me, and had it returned. I made him a -small present.[I-67] - -We encamped on the end of the island, and although it was not more -than eleven o'clock, were obliged to stay all night. Distance 18 -miles.[I-68] - -_Sept. 19th._ Embarked early; dined at St. Croix[I-69] river. Messrs. -Frazer and Cameron having some business to do with the savages, we -left them at the encampment; but they promised to overtake me, though -they should be obliged to travel until twelve o'clock at night. Fired -a blunderbuss for them at Tattoo. The chain of my watch became -unhooked, by lending her to my guard; this was a very serious -misfortune.[I-70] - -_Sept. 20th._ Embarked after sunrise. Cloudy, with hard head winds; a -small shower of rain; cleared up in the afternoon, and became -pleasant. Encamped on a prairie on the east side, on which is a large -painted stone, about eight miles below the Sioux village. The traders -had not yet overtaken me. Distance 26½ miles.[I-71] - -_Sept. 21st._ Embarked at a seasonable hour; breakfasted at the Sioux -village on the east side [near St. Paul,[I-72] capital of Minnesota]. -It consists of 11 lodges, and is situated at the head of an island -just below a ledge of rocks [Dayton bluff, in the city]. The village -was evacuated at this time, all the Indians having gone out to the -lands to gather fols avoin [folle avoine, wild rice: see note 44, -page 39]. About two miles above, saw three bears swimming over the -river, but at too great a distance for us to have killed them; they -made the shore before I could come up with them. Passed a camp of -Sioux, of four lodges, in which I saw only one man, whose name was -Black Soldier. The garrulity of the women astonished me, for at the -other camps they never opened their lips; but here they flocked around -us with all their tongues going at the same time. The cause of this -freedom must have been the absence of their lords and masters. Passed -the encampment of Mr. Ferrebault [Faribault[I-73]], who had broken his -peroque and had encamped on the west side of the river, about three -miles below St. Peters [under the bluff below Mendota]. We made our -encampment on the N. E. point of the big [Pike's] island opposite -[Fort Snelling or] St. Peters.[I-74] Distance 24 miles. - -The Mississippi became so very narrow this day, that I once crossed -in my batteaux with forty strokes of my oars. The water of the -Mississippi, since we passed Lake Pepin, has been remarkably red; and -where it is deep, appears as black as ink. The waters of the St. -Croix and St. Peters appear blue and clear, for a considerable -distance below their confluence. - -I observed a white flag on shore to-day, and on landing, discovered -it to be white silk; it was suspended over a scaffold, on which were -laid four dead bodies, two inclosed in boards, and two in bark. They -were wrapped up in blankets, which appeared to be quite new. They were -the bodies, I was informed, of two Sioux women who had lived with two -Frenchmen, one of their children, and some other relative; two of whom -died at St. Peters and two at St. Croix, but were brought here to be -deposited upon this scaffold together. This is the manner of Sioux -burial when persons die a natural death; but when they are killed they -suffer them to lie unburied. This circumstance brought to my -recollection the bones of a man I found on the hills below the St. -Croix; the jaw bone I brought on board. He must have been killed on -that spot. - -FOOTNOTES: - -[I-1] Roster of the party: 1. Lieutenant Z. M. Pike, 1st lieut. 1st -regt. U. S. Infantry, comdg.--2. Non-comm. officers: (1) Sergeant -Henry Kennerman; (2) Corporal Samuel Bradley; (3) Corporal William E. -Meek.--3. Privates: (1) John Boley; (2) Peter Branden; (3) John Brown; -(4) Jacob Carter; (5) Thomas Dougherty; (6) William Gorden; (7) -Solomon Huddleston; (8) Jeremiah Jackson; (9) Hugh Menaugh; (10) -Theodore Miller; (11) John Mountjoy; (12) David Owings; (13) Alexander -Roy; (14) Patrick Smith; (15) John Sparks; (16) Freegift Stoute; (17) -David Whelply. This detail for detached service was made July 1st, -1805; returned Apr. 30th, 1806, without change, excepting Bradley -promoted, _vice_ Kennerman reduced to the ranks. Voyage of the 9th was -between St. Louis Co., Mo., and Madison Co., Ill., past Caberet's isl. -to camp on Illinois side at head of Chouteau's isl. - -The above roster of the Mississippi Expedition is derived from the -Return of Persons, etc., which formed a part of one of the Papers -accompanying a Congressional Committee Report which was given as No. -6, pp. 64-68 of the Appendix to Part 3 of the orig. ed. of this work. -It appears in full, in its proper connection, at or near the end of -the main text of the present edition. - -The letter of instructions from General Wilkinson, dated St. Louis, -July 30th, 1805, in obedience to which Lieutenant Pike proceeded upon -the Mississippi Expedition, likewise formed one of the Papers -accompanying the same Congressional Committee Report. It was given -nowhere else in the orig. ed. of this book; though the corresponding -instructions Pike received for his second (Arkansaw) Expedition were -prefixed to the main text of his narrative. The Mississippi order -appears in full, in its original position, near the end of the main -text of the present edition. - -[I-2] Or Du Bois r., Madison Co., Ill., notable in history as that at -whose mouth Lewis and Clark had their winter camp of 1803-4, whence -their expedition started May 14th, 1804. At this date it was said to -be opp. the mouth of the Missouri; it is now opp. the large Mobile -isl. and the Missouri enters 2 m. below Wood r., through the Amazon -bend. - -[I-3] In undertaking to follow a traveler, the first thing to ascertain -is his "personal equation"--_i. e._, the probable error of his -mileages. Pike traveled entirely by his watch, and all his distances -are guesses based upon rate of progress--so many hours, so many miles. -The way to approximate accuracy in this matter is to take him between -two fixed points whose actual distance apart is ascertained, see what -he makes of this, and adjust him accordingly. From St. Louis to -Keokuk, by the present usual steamboat channel of the Miss. r., is -202¼ m.; say to the foot of Des Moines rapids, roundly 200 m. Pike's -figures, as nearly as these can be got at, make this distance about -250 m. Hence we must discount his mileages 20 per cent., or one-fifth, -as a rule. Taking one thing with another--changes in the channel in -the course of the century, good or bad water, Pike's own feelings, -errors of manuscript or print, etc., we shall find this deduction to -work well; with the aid of such topographical data as we have, it will -enable us to set most of his camps pretty closely. On the 10th, Pike -gets left to bivouac on the bank at a point in Jersey Co., Ill., -opposite Portage des Sioux, Mo., his barge being storm-bound somewhere -above Alton, Ill., perhaps in the vicinity of Clifton or Randolph. The -distance between Alton, first notable point above the Mo. r., and -Grafton, last notable point below the Illinois r., is 16 m. Besides -Alton and Clifton, places passed on the N. side are Shields' branch, -Hop Hollow, Falling Rock cr., and Piasa cr.--some of the present isls. -above Mobile isl. are Maple, Ellis, Search's, Piasa, and Eagle's -Nest--the latter off Portage des Sioux. - -[I-4] Portage des Sioux (or de Sioux) is that place in St. Charles Co., -Mo., where the Mo. r. comes nearest to the Miss. r. before their -confluence. It was the site of an early settlement on the S. bank of -the Miss. r., one François Saucier having first built on the spot, -1769 or 1770; the village was already there in Pike's time, and still -perpetuates the old F. name of the hostile Sioux's crossing-place -(_ca._ 1780) between the two great rivers, also called Sioux Portage -or Portage of the Sioux: see Beck's Gaz.; or Wetmore's, p. 254. - -[I-5] First great tributary of the Miss. r. above the Mo. r., falling -in at Calhoun pt., Calhoun Co., Ill., opp. Camden, Jersey Co., Ill.; -Mason's isl. the largest one of several more in the Miss. r. just -below the mouth of the Ill. r. In coming S. the Miss. r. makes a great -bend E. and then nearly N. to the confluence, whence it turns again to -a course approx. coincident with that which the Ill. r. holds; hence -Pike's remark that the one might be mistaken for a part of the other. -The river has had many names; the present is in form a French plural, -_sc._ Rivière des Illinois, _sc._ of the people who lived on -it--Illin, Illini, Illinoct, Illinoac, Illinoet, Illiniwek, Illeni, -Illenois, Ilinois, Islinois, Islenois, etc. Pike's map has Illenois; -Franquelin's, 1688, R. des Ilinois. Another aboriginal name, Theakiki, -Teakiki, etc., whence Kankakee, was applied to one of the branches of -this river. The Ill. r. sometimes shared the name St. Louis with the -Mississippi and the Ohio. It was called R. de Seignelay by Hennepin, -in compliment to the marquis of that name; and once known as the -Divine r. The importance of this river as a water-way from the Great -Lakes to the Mississippi is second only to that of the Wisconsin, and -would be first if the long projected connection of St. Louis with -Chicago by water were made. The use of these two rivers for this -purpose was originally almost simultaneous; for Joliet and Marquette -reached the Miss. r. from Green bay by the Wisc. r. June 15th or 17th, -1673, came down the Miss. r. past the mouth of the Ill. r. in July -that year, continued down to or near the Arkansaw, turned up the Miss. -r. July 17th, reached the Ill. r., and went up the latter to L. -Michigan, Aug.-Sept., 1673. One of Joliet's maps, 1674, clearly shows -the Wis. r. and Ill. r. connections of the Miss. r. with L. Michigan -and Green bay respectively. Michael Accault's party, consisting of -himself, Antoine Auguelle, and L. Hennepin, dispatched by La Salle -from Fort Crêvecoeur on the Ill. r., Feb. 29th, 1680, reached its -mouth Mar. 7th, 1680; La Salle did the same himself Feb. 6th, 1682. -The latter--one of the very greatest men in the early history of -American discovery and exploration--came upon the Ill. r. in Dec., -1679, and made the first French establishment on Lower Mississippian -waters in Jan., 1680, at the Illinois village Pimetoui, close to -present Peoria. - -[I-6] Among the islands (or their modern representatives) past which -Pike struggled may be named Perry, Squaw, Enterprise, and Iowa; the -present channel is W. of all these excepting Squaw, taking through -Hatchet chute to Rock ldg. and Milan, Calhoun Co., Ill. That island -whose foot is now nearest 6 m. from the Illinois r. is Dardenne; but -camp was more probably a mile short of this, where is now Bolter's -isl., as it is called--properly Boulder's. - -[I-7] About 21 m., Bolter's isl. to the Four Brothers, at Cap au Grès. -The present run of the principal islands is: Dardenne, Two Branch, -Criminal, Peruque, Sweden, all below the mouth of Buffalo, Copper or -Cuivre r. Dardenne cr. falls in on the left hand going up, right bank, -opp. the island of that name; it appears as Dardonne on Owen's map. -Peruque cr. occupies a corresponding position opp. Peruque and Sweden -isls.; Nicollet's map has Perruque. R. au Cuivre or aux Boeufs of -the French, Copper and Buffalo r. of others ("Quiver" r. of Lewis and -Clark's map, 1814), is a large stream which courses from Montgomery -into Lincoln Co., Mo., and then, with its Big cr. branch, separates -the latter from St. Charles Co.; it falls into Cuivre slough, which -cuts off Cuivre isl., 3 m. long. At the upper end of this slough is -the mouth of the creek mapped by Nicollet as M^cLean's, now as Bob, -Bobb, Bobs, Bobbs, etc., cr. Some of the named places along the river -are Brock's, Dixon's, Fruitland, Thomason's, Beck's, Two Branch, -Martin's, Hastings, Beech's, and Bogtown--all insignificant, mostly -mere landings, and all in Calhoun Co., Ill., excepting Beck's. Pike's -Four Brothers are represented by islands Nos. 499, 500, 501, and 502, -of late surveys, not now abreast; all are small, and the largest one -is called Sarah Ann. Pike's "beautiful cedar cliff" is Cap au Grès -rock, opposite a hamlet of the same name in Lincoln Co., Mo.; Dogtown, -Ill., is under the cliff. The phrase is commonly rendered Cap au Gre -or Cap au Gris, by mistaking F. grès, a noun, meaning sandstone, for -F. _gris_, adj., gray. Long of 1817, as pub. 1860 and again 1890, has -a Little Cape Gris; Beltrami, II. p. 196, renders Great Cape Gray. The -exact distance to this place from Grafton is 27 m.; from Alton, 43 m.; -from St. Louis 66 m. - -[I-8] Cap au Grès to Hamburg, Calhoun Co., Ill., 22 m.; river crooked, -and channel still more so; late start and much obstruction; Pike may -hardly have reached Hamburg, but was in that vicinity, and we may set -him there, in the absence of any datum for greater precision. The -"vast" number of islands he passed have their modern representatives -in such as: Sandy, 2½ m. long, with Turner's near it; Stag and Maple, -abreast; Sterling; Westport, 3½ m. long, with Kickapoo and Kelly's -alongside it. Along this whole way, on the left hand going up, in -Lincoln Co., Mo., runs a long slough approx. parallel with the river. -This is the discharge of Bryant's cr., which approaches the river opp. -Hamburg, gets from the hills and runs in the bottom down to Sandy -isl.; it is called Bayou au Roi on some maps, Bayou Roy on others. -Nicollet charts it with his usual accuracy, but without name. The -principal places passed are the villages of Sterling and Westport, -Lincoln Co., Mo.; Gilead, back up on the hill, in Calhoun Co., Ill.; -lesser ones are the landings, wood-piles, or what-not, called Asbury, -Turner's, Hogtown, and Red's. The St. L., Keok. and N. W. R. R. runs -in the bottom along the bayou; stations Foley, Apex, Elsberry, and -Dameron. - -[I-9] _Polyodon spatula_, or _Spatularia spatula_, the paddlefish, also -called spoon-billed cat or duck-billed cat, common in Mississippian -waters. It sometimes attains a length of 5 or 6 feet; the shape -resembles that of the sturgeon, but the skin is scaleless, like a -cat's. One of the Relations ascribed to Hennepin, and pub. 1697, -speaks of this fish as the "long-beaked sturgeon," and says it was -spawning Apr. 24th. Hennepin doubtless became acquainted with it when -he was first on the Mississippi, under Accault, in 1680: see, _e. g._, -Shea's Tr. of Henp., 1880, p. 359. - -[I-10] Doubtless one of the brothers mentioned in Lewis and Clark: see -ed. 1893, pp. 1209, 1236, 1243. - -[I-11] From Hamburg to Clarksville is 14½ m., Louisiana or -Louisianaville, 24½; Pike went about 20, say to Krider's bend, and his -camp was on an island which we may take to be that now called -Krider's, 6 m. above Clarksville, 4 m. below Louisiana. The -"continuation of islands" is now the following in ascending series, -omitting about a dozen small ones; Mosier's or Mozier's, and Howard's, -together, the former 1¾ m. long; Tilden's; McCoy's or Cock; Slim and -Grimes, the former 3¼ m. long; Coon, 1 m.; Carroll's or Carle's, 1¾; -Amaranth, small; Eagle, 1 m.; Clarksville, 2 m., opposite the town; -Pharr's, 1¾ m.; and Krider's, 1 m. Above Mosier's isl. and ldg., on -the E., is the outlet of Hamburg bay, 3½ m. above the town; Bay cr. -falls into it. Behind Slim isl. is the chute of that name, into which -falls the large creek called Guin's, Guinn's, Gwin's, etc.; and at the -head of the island is the mouth of Ramsey's cr., another large one. -These streams are both in Pike Co., Mo.; and as soon as Pike passes -opposite Clarksville he has Pike Co., Ill., on his right, so that he -sails many miles with a county of his own on each side. Clarksville, -Mo., is something of a town, on the edge of the river, under the hill -around which Calumet cr. comes to fall in just above; and 3 m. higher -comes Little Calumet cr. on the same side. Opposite Clarksville is the -lower opening of that immense slough whose character is not less -remarkable than its name. This runs for more than 30 m. alongside the -river, clear through Pike Co., Ill., and into Adams Co., forming a -maze of channels which intersect one another and thus cut off various -islands, besides opening into the Mississippi at several places; some -of these lesser sloughs are called Spring Lake, Atlas, Cocklebur, -Swift, Coon, Mud, Five Points, Crooked, Running, and Swan. This -collateral water-course also receives a series of creeks, among which -are those called Big or Big Stew, Six Mile, Honey or Hadley, Ashton or -Fall, and Harkness. This whole affair is commonly called the Snicarty -or Sny Carte; it is Suycartee Slough on Owen's map, and has other -variants too numerous to recount. All these words or phrases are -perversions of F. Chenal Écarté, lit. cut-off channel. For this and -the corresponding formation of the name Sniabar or Snibar, given to a -creek and town in Missouri, see my note, N. Y. Nation, Jan. 19th, -1893, and Lewis and Clark, ed. 1893, p. 29. The embankment built to -defend the river from the slough is known as the Sny levee. - -[I-12] About 20 m., setting Pike in the vicinity of Cincinnati, Pike -Co., Ill.; camp perhaps a little beyond this town, but just about -opposite the boundary between Pike Co., Mo., and Ralls Co., Mo. On the -Illinois side we have nothing worthy of note but the snaky Snicarty, -back of which are the villages Atlas and Rockport. But the Missouri -side offers some interesting things. On decamping from Krider's isl., -Pike passes in quick succession two creeks, Louisiana and Salt river, -all on his left, all within 6 m. 1. Pike elsewhere cites both these -creeks, and says the first of them is the one he calls Bar r.; this is -now Buffalo cr., falling in 2 m. below Louisiana; the bar at its -mouth, whence the name, is present Buffalo isl. 2. The next creek is -that immediately above, whose mouth is Louisiana; this is called Noir -cr. on most of the maps before me, but Bear cr. on the latest G. L. O. -map; which name the natives prefer I am not informed. 3. Louisiana is -quite a town, which dates back to Nicollet's time, at least, as he -marks it on the beautiful map he made before 1840. The Chic. and Alton -R. R. bridges the river at the mouth of Noir or Bear cr. This was -built 1872-73 (Act of Congr., Mar. 3d, 1871); the town or station Pike -is on the Illinois side, opp. Louisiana. The C. B. and Q. R. R. sends -a branch here; the St. L., Keok. and N. W. R. R. also runs through -Louisiana. 4. Next is Salt r., which Pike elsewhere calls Oahahah, and -others Auhaha, 2 m. above Louisiana. This seems to have been known -long before the time Pike's remark would suggest; if I mistake not, it -is laid down on some maps before 1700. It is a large river; the French -were along here in 1680-90, and I can put my finger on an old F. -Rivière au Sel. Salt r., with its branches, is big enough to water -five or six modern counties, before it falls in through Pike Co. -Present islands in Pike's course of to-day, from Salt r. upward, are -Angle, South, and North Fritz between Hickory chute and Scott's ldg., -Atlas, Blackbird, and Denmark, between a couple of Snicarty openings -and Mundy's ldg. or Ashburn sta.; then the very large Gilbert's isl., -2½ m. long, which lies between Gilbert's and Tompkins' ldg. on the -Missouri side, and Cincinnati ldg. on the other. A good deal of -engineering work was done at this bad place to close Gilbert's chute -and throw the main channel over against the Illinois side. - -[I-13] Cincinnati Landing, Pike Co., Ill., to Hannibal, Marion Co., Mo., -12 m. direct, and not much more by river, as its course is quite -straight. The Frenchman's house, 4 m. beyond which Pike went to camp, -was a germ of Hannibal, sown under the handsome hill, just above a -little run which Nicollet and Owen both map as Bear cr., opposite -Hurricane isl. This place is mapped by Pike as Hurricane Settlement; -he speaks of it again under date of Apr. 26th, 1806. It is now a -notable railroad center; the Wabash R. R. built the bridge in 1871 -(Act of Congr., July 25th, 1866). On the Illinois side there was a -place called Douglasville, which seems to have been a forerunner of -the town or station Shepherd; while Hannibal itself has also the St. -L., Keok. and N. W. R. R. skirting the Miss. r., the Hann. and St. -Jo., the St. L. and Hann., and the Mo., Kas. and Tex. To reach this -then French embryo, Pike proceeded with present Pike Co., Ill., on his -right the whole way, but with Ralls Co. on his left, to past Saverton -in the latter county, and so on to Marion Co., Mo. He passed the -positions of the islands now called Taylor's, Cottel's, King's, and -Glasscock's; and after he had interviewed the Frenchman he went on -past the present position of the mouth of Bayou St. Charles, off which -are Turtle, Glaucus, and other islands, to camp in Marion Co., Mo., -about where the present boundary between Pike and Adams cos., Ill., -strikes the river--that is to say, opposite Armstrong isl., near the -beginning of the Snicarty. The St. Charles or Charles is old in -history; I have seen the name ascribed to Hennepin, 1680, but have not -myself so found it. Pike's Hurricane isl. is probably not now -determinable, if existent, unless he means a large tract of -bottom-land opposite Hannibal, isolated by the Snicarty. Glasscock's -isl. is now or was lately the only well-founded island on the river -near the mouth of Bear cr. It is said in Holcombe's Hist. Marion Co., -1884, p. 902, that an island opposite the mouth of Bear cr. -disappeared in 1849. Judge Thos. W. Bacon, who came to Hannibal in -1847, informs me _in lit._ Mar. 21st, 1894, that he remembers no such -island; "there was a sand-bar visible at low water just above the -mouth of Bear cr., and it disappeared long ago, but no such fugitive -formation could properly be termed an island. Along the N. front of -the site of Hannibal was once an incipient island--a sand-bar with -growing willows extending from the N. end almost to the mainland. This -gradually disappeared except at the lower end, where it prolonged and -merged into a granite gravel bed or bar visible at low water, which -was dredged away by the government." Pike is probably mistaken in -using the name Hurricane in the present connection. There were a -Hurricane ldg., isl., and cr. lower down, in Lincoln Co.; but Judge -Bacon informs me he never heard the name applied to Hannibal. Nor is -it true that this town was ever called Stavely's ldg., except as a -piece of fugitive sarcasm in the newspapers of a rival town, arising -in the habit of one John W. Stavely, a saddler of Hannibal, who used -to haunt the landing when steamers arrived. It could not well have -been first known as a "landing," because the first steamer to arrive -there, the Gen. Putnam, Moses D. Bates, master, came in 1825, while -Hannibal was platted in 1819 by its present name, shortly after Pike -Co. was organized (Dec. 14th, 1818). The classical term is said to be -traceable to Antoine Soulard, surveyor-general, who is also said to -have named Fabius r. for the great Roman cunctator. But this is -dubious; old forms Fabas and Fabbas suggest Sp. _fabas_ beans. Bay St. -Charles was called Scipio r., as attested by the hamlet of Port Scipio -at its mouth. - -[I-14] This stretch of "39" m. needs to be warily discussed. The whole -distance from Hannibal to Keokuk by the river channel is only 61 m. Pike -makes it from his camp of the 16th to that of the 19th 39 + 23 + 4 = 76 -m.; he also started from a little above Hannibal on the 17th, and did -not quite make Keokuk on the 19th; for he only got to the foot of the -Des Moines rapids after breakfast on the 20th. The whole way would -have been about 80 of his miles against say 60 of actual travel, or -the proportion of 4:3, as already noted, p. 2; and we may confidently -set him down on the 17th halfway between Hannibal and Keokuk. Now from -Hannibal to La Grange is 30 m. and from La Grange to Keokuk is 31 m.; -La Grange, Lewis Co., Mo., at the mouth of Wyaconda r., is the -required location of camp of the 17th. This is 10 m. above Quincy, the -seat of Adams Co., Ill., one of the best known cities on the river, -though not as old as some of them. The C. B. and Q. R. R. bridged the -river just above the city in 1867-68; a West Quincy grew up on the -Missouri side, and the present importance of the place requires no -comment. A very short distance above Quincy Pike passes from Marion -into Lewis Co., Mo. But the most important point of this day's voyage -is one to which the above text does not even allude. Pike elsewhere -speaks of a certain Jaustioni river, as the then boundary between the -U. S. and the Sac nation, 7 m. above the Frenchman's house at -Hurricane Settlement, on the W. side; and he traces this river on his -map by the name Jauflione. Now there are five large streams which -enter the Miss. r. on the W. within 3 m. of one another, by four -separate mouths, in Marion Co., say 2 to 5 miles below W. Quincy, and -the proportionate distance above Hannibal. They are now known as (1) -South Two Rivers; (2) North Two Rivers; (3) a branch of the -latter--these three emptying practically together, just below Fabius -isl.; (4) South Fabius; and (5) North Fabius rivers, which fall into a -slough whose two mouths are opposite Orton's isl. Pike has left us no -data to decide which of these he means by Jaustioni or Jauflione, -especially as the positions of the several outlets have no doubt -changed since 1805. They are all at present, or were very recently, -considerably more than the "seven" miles above Hannibal, being -entirely beyond the Bayou St. Charles, itself about 7 m. long. Pike's -queer names, Justioni or Jaustioni, and Jauflione (latter in early -text, 1807, p. 4, and on map), are found also as Jeffreon, and usually -as Jeffrion. Some form of the name, the meaning of which I have never -learned, endured for many years; thus Jauflione r. appears in Morse's -Univ. Gaz., 3d ed. 1821, p. 350, though it had mostly disappeared from -ordinary maps of about that date. The river thus designated has a -history which will bear looking up. Judge Thos. H. Bacon of Hannibal -refers me to certain documents bearing on French Colonial history to -be found in Amer. State Papers, VI. 1860, pp. 713-14, and 830-34, also -repub. in Holcombe's Hist. Marion Co., 1884. On p. 834 is: "July 10th, -1810. Board met. Present John B. C. Lucas, Clement B. Penrose, and -Frederick Bates, Commissioners. Charles Gratiot, assignee of Mathurin -Bouvet, claiming 84 arpents of land front on the Mississippi river and -in depth from the river back to the hills in the district of St. -Charles.... The Board order that this claim be surveyed, provided that -it be not situated above the mouth of the River Jeffrion conformably -to the possession of Mathurin Bouvet," etc. As Bouvet's claim was -ultimately confirmed to Gratiot, Jeffrion r. must have been above Salt -r. The next considerable river above Salt r. is that one of the "Two -Rivers" called South r.; but this is hardly 30 m. long, and an Act of -Dec. 31st, 1813, describes Jeffrion r. as over 30 m. long. The next -one is North Two Rivers; undoubtedly it is this one which was known as -the Jeffrion in Territorial days. When the region was first settled it -was called the Two Rivers country, and the title of a certain Two -Rivers Baptist Association preserves this designation. The Governor of -Louisiana Territory was required to divide it into districts (Act of -Congr., Mar. 26th, 1804, sec. 13); Holcombe's Hist. Marion Co., p. 37, -says that Governor Wm. Clark by proclamation reorganized the districts -into counties Oct. 1st, 1812; and doubtless the Jeffrion would be -there again in mention. Bouvet's settlement on Bay Charles is -unquestionable in location; it was described as about 34 leagues above -St. Louis, and was a place with which the commissioners must have been -officially acquainted. In history B. Charles is nearly a century older -than St. Louis, and it was for many years a better known locality. -Present North r. is the only one that answers the historical and -geographical requirements of the north one of Two Rivers of early -Territorial times and of the Jeffrion r. of French Colonial days. -Holcombe, p. 148, gives an account of Kentucky prospectors on the -Jeffrion in 1817. The name of the Sac chief Black Hawk occurs in -connection with an incident on Two Rivers in 1812. But the most -satisfactory and in fact a conclusive identification of North Two -Rivers with the Jauflione is derivable from the terms of our treaty -with the Sacs and Foxes of 1804. This will be found in Statutes at -Large, VII. p. 84, _seq._: A Treaty between the United States of -America and the United Tribes of Sac and Fox Indians, made Nov. 3d, -1804, ratified Jan. 25th, 1805, and proclaimed Feb. 21st, 1805. Among -the "articles of a treaty made at St. Louis in the district of -Louisiana between William Henry Harrison, governor of the Indiana -territory and of the district of Louisiana [etc., etc.] of the one -part, and the chiefs and head men of the united Sac and Fox tribes of -the other part," there is one defining the boundary thus: "ARTICLE 2. -The general boundary or line between the lands of the United States -and of the said Indian tribes shall be as follows, to wit: Beginning -at a point on the Missouri river opposite to the mouth of the -Gasconade river; thence in a direct course so as to strike the river -Jeffreon at the distance of thirty miles from its mouth, and down the -said Jeffreon to the Mississippi," etc., etc. In company with Mr. -Robert F. Thompson of the Bureau of Indian Affairs at Washington I -made a special examination of maps in his office with reference to -this point, and among them found one, prepared for office use in -determining boundaries indicated in the terms of Indian treaties, on -which the boundary in mention had been drawn from the Missouri -opposite the mouth of the Gasconade directly to a point supposed to be -30 m. up the _North_ Two Rivers, which I had on other grounds -determined the Jauflione or Jeffreon to be. This river empties in -Fabius township, in the N. W. ¼ of Sect. 3, T. 58 N., R. 5 W., -Marion Co., Mo. - -On this extraordinary cession see a note by L. C. D[raper] in Minn. -Hist. Coll., III. Part 2, p. 143, 1874. - -At the upper end of St. Charles bayou, called Bayou chute, a couple of -miles below Two Rivers, was the site of a place that rejoiced on paper -in the name of Marion City. They started a railroad there, were liable -to wash-outs, and inspired Charles Dickens' idea of his quizzical -"Eden." If one would like to see how uncounted "cities" were laid out -in gaudy prints--some consisting in a hovel or two, some without even -that--let him look over Featherstonhaugh's diverting relations of the -'30's, when he traveled in these parts, then overrun with a set of the -neediest, greediest, and most unscrupulous landsharks that ever lived -on calomel, whisky, and the gullibility of their fellows. Marion City -is located on one of the maps before me, but not on any of the others. -A little above it are Fabius and Orton isls., already mentioned, and -opposite these is Ward's isl., larger than either of the other two. A -couple of miles above Quincy begins the group of Cottonwood isls., -opposite a large horseshoe-shaped slough which seems to be an old -cut-off of the river; it is connected with the Fabius r. outlets, and -receives Durgan's (_i. e._, Durkee's) cr. At Quincy is the lower -outlet of a very extensive snicarty, 12 or 15 m. direct, and much more -by its sinuosities; this begins at Canton (above La Grange) and -connects at various points with Canton chute, itself some 10 m. long. -La Grange, where Pike camps, was so called from the hill under which -it nestled, and the English of which would be Barn hill. The original -settlement was named Wyaconda or Waconda, from the river at whose -mouth it was made; thus Nicollet's map marks Wiyakonda instead of La -Grange, preserving the Indian name of the place. This river is a large -one which, with its branches, traverses Scotland and Clark cos. before -entering Lewis Co. Before settlement a certain tract of country below -La Grange had been called Waconda prairie, or in some similar form of -the Indian word, as Wacondaw of Maj. Thos. Forsyth, 1819; and this is -what Pike's map presents as the "Small Prairie." - -[I-15] About two-thirds of the way from La Grange to Keokuk--say to Fox -prairie, at the mouth of Fox r., site of Gregory's Landing, Clark Co., -Mo. The principal place passed is Canton, Lewis Co., Mo., 7 m. above -La Grange, opposite the head of Canton chute. Some other places that -were started, such as Satterfield, would be hard to find on a -latter-day map. Tully is now practically a part of Canton; Tully isl. -exists, 3 or 4 m. above Canton, and Satterfield's creek is a branch of -Fox r. Near there, one Dodd kept for some years a woodyard on the -Illinois side, and the steamboat channel among the sand-bars and -islands in his vicinity acquired the name of Dodd's crossing. - -[I-16] About 10 m., from Gregory's ldg. to "the point of a beach" within -the present city limits of Keokuk, Lee Co., Ia., immediately above the -mouth of Des Moines r., which for some distance separates the States -of Missouri and Iowa; opposite is Hancock Co., Ill. The place where -Pike got sawyered was very likely between Hackley's and Fox isls. The -place is a bad one; there has been a good deal of engineering work -done in damming Hackley's chute, and jettying the channel over to the -other side. Fox r. (once called R. Puante, whence also Stinking cr.) -is not mentioned by Pike in the present connection; but he speaks of -it elsewhere, and lays it down on his map without name, marking an -Indian village on the Illinois side between its mouth and that of Des -Moines r. The present or a very recent arrangement of its discharge is -by Fox slough, a small snicarty that begins at Alexandria and runs 5 -m. down to Gregory's ldg. This cuts off a piece of bottom which the -railroad traverses between the points said, besides Fox and several -lesser islands. - -[I-17] For the origin of this name, involving a spurious etymology by -association with Trappist monks, see Lewis and Clark, ed. 1893, p. 20. -The always careful and accurate Nicollet made the matter quite plain: -see his Rep. 1843, p. 22. Some form of the old Indian name is used by -the earliest French travelers in these parts. One of the oldest maps I -have seen, dressée par J. B. Franquelin dans 1688 pour être presentée -à Louis XIV., letters R. des Moingana, and marks the Indian village of -Moingoana. One of Joliet's maps has Moeng8ena. Joliet and Marquette -passed its mouth going down the Miss. r. in 1673, on or about June -25th; Accault, Auguelle, and Hennepin passed it going up the Miss. r. -early in 1680. Besides the many early variants of the phrase which -settled into Des Moines, we find R. of the Outontantas, 8tantas, -8t8ntes, Otentas, etc., R. of the Peouareas, Paotes, etc., R. of the -Maskoutens, etc., Nadouessioux, etc. This is the largest river Pike -has come to since he left the Illinois, and the only tributary of the -Missouri which he charts with any detail; he lays it down with 20 of -its branches, and marks the positions on it of old Forts Crawford and -St. Louis. We observe that he calls it De Moyen; and this gives -occasion for a blunder not less amusing than to call it Trappist r. -would be. For our hero was ambitious of French scholarship, and on -consulting his dictionary to find out about _moyen_, he set the stream -down as _Means_ r. in his French-English vocabulary of geographical -names. Another author, or his printer, got it Demon r. Beltrami, 1828, -renders Le Moine and Monk r. Pike's editor of the early text, 1807, -has des Moines, p. 4. The stream is a large and very important one, -too much so to be entered upon in a mere note like this; but I may -observe that it is historically less significant than those of similar -extent on the Illinois and Wisconsin side of the Mississippi, because -several of the latter were highways during the seventeenth and -eighteenth centuries. The mouth of the Des Moines became of course the -scene of early settlement, but not all the places started there -survived. Nicollet's map shows three--Keokuck, Montebello, Warsaw. -Owen's, somewhat later, has also Nassau and Churchville, immediately -at the debouchure, where there came to be also a Buenavista. -Publishing in 1847, but having written of 1835, the always -entertaining Featherstonhaugh speaks of "a sorry settlement on the -left bank, called Keokuk, after a celebrated Sauk chief, inhabited -altogether by a set of desperados"--a diagnosis which will no doubt be -better relished by the Hamiltonians, Varsovians, and Alexandrians than -by the present polished Keokukites. He should have made one exception, -however, for he found there the famous George Catlin, Nov. 4th, 1835: -see his book, II. p. 42. Besides Keokuk, Lee Co., Ia., at the foot of -the rapids above the mouth of the Des Moines, the three places which -have grown into urban reality are: Hamilton, Hancock Co., Ill., -directly opposite Keokuk; Warsaw, Hancock Co., Ill., 2 m. below the -mouth, and directly opposite this, Alexandria, Clark Co., Mo. Three -States as well as three counties thus met here. Pike continues with -Illinois on his right, but now has Iowa instead of Missouri on his -left. - -Fort Edwards was a position of importance for some years. This -military post was built on the east side of the Mississippi, 3 m. -below the foot of the rapids, and directly opposite the two islands -which divided the outlet of the Des Moines into three channels. Half a -mile S. W. from the fort was Cantonment Davis, its precursor, -abandoned when the works were completed. The locality is practically -Warsaw. A full description of this establishment, as it was at the -time of Long's visit in August, 1817, is given in his report, as -printed in Minn. Hist. Col., II. Part 1, 1860; 2d ed. 1890, pp. 77-80. -It had been building since June, 1816, and was not quite finished in -1817. - -[I-18] Some light--at least that light in which he was regarded--is -thrown on Mr. Ewing by a letter before me from General James Wilkinson -to General Henry Dearborn, Secretary at War, dated St. Louis, Dec. 3d, -1805: "In a former letter you have asked me who this Ewing was? I can -give you no further Information than that I found Him in a place, -which He is utterly unqualified to fill--He is I understand placed at -the River Desmoin, to teach the Indians the Arts of Agriculture, but -has I believe given but a wretched example--This is I think the Third -visit he has made since my arrival to this place, and I expect his -disbursements which are supplied by Mr. Chouteau may exceed -expectation--He appears to be a young man of innocence, levity & -simplicity--without experience or observation." - -[I-19] The rapids named from their situation above the mouth of Des -Moines r. have also been known as the Lower rapids, in distinction -from those higher up about the mouth of Rock r. These formidable -obstacles to navigation have been overcome by modern engineering -skill, but Pike's curt notice of the channel is clearly recognizable. -The river was bridged by the Wabash road between Hamilton and Keokuk, -in 1869-70 (Act of Congr., July 25th, 1866); the town lock and chain -are within a mile or so of the bridge. Then succeed the English, -Lamalee, and Spanish chains, and the Upper chain at the head of the -rapids. The distance is about 11 m. Sandusky, Ia., was located between -the English and Lamalee chains; Nashville, Ia., at the Spanish chain; -Solferino, Ia., above the last; at or near one of these last two is -Galland, Ia.; and on the Illinois side is a place called Sonora. On -that side Cheney cr. falls in at Hamilton, and higher up are two -others, known as Golden's and Quarry Sugar, but which used to be -called Wagoner's and Larry's; while on the Iowan side Price's cr. -falls in at the middle lock, Lamalee's at Sandusky, and several -smaller ones at various points. The railroad and canal hug the Iowan -side. At the head of the rapids the river makes a sharp bend; in the -concavity of this bend stands Nauvoo, Ill., originally a Mormon -settlement; it used to be called also Commerce. This is the place -where Mr. Ewing had his establishment when he entertained Pike; the -latter charts it as "U. S. Agricultural Estab^t." The Sac village -opposite was on the site of the present town of Montrose, Ia. A large -creek runs through this town. There are some islands at the head of -the rapids, between Nauvoo and Montrose, one of which, No. 401 of the -Miss. Surv. chart, is called Montrose. At the head of the bend, still -opp. Nauvoo, is the lower end of Dobson's slough, which receives a -stream charted by Nicollet and Owen as Sugar cr., but later dedicated -to his Satanic majesty by the name of Devil's or Big Devil cr., called -by Beltrami Manitou cr. Devil's isl. is the name of the large tract, -nearly 4 m. long, which is isolated by Dobson's slough, certain -sections of which latter are known as Big River and Potter's. - -[I-20] James Wilkinson: see elsewhere for this letter, which formed Doc. -No. 1, App. to Pt. 1. of the orig. ed. of this work. Pike's 5 or 6 m. -takes him past Dobson's slough and Devil's or Sugar cr. and isl., and -the sand-bar on which he camped is now represented by Niota isl., 2½ -m. long, or one of the small ones close by. The locality is the -well-known one of the city of Madison, or Fort Madison, seat of Lee -Co., Ia. Opposite this city, in Hancock Co., Ill., are two little -places, one called Niota, and the other Appannose (Nicollet), -Appanoose (G. L. O. map), Appanooce (Miss. Surv. chart), etc. A -certain creek which falls in by Niota and is known as Tyson's cr. -seems to be the never-identified one which Lewis and Clark mapped in -1814 as Sand Bank cr. - -A history of Lee Co., pub. Chicago, 1879, says that the city of Fort -Madison was so called from the old fort and trading-post of that name. -The author speaks of the tradition that this establishment was built -by Zachary Taylor, when this distinguished general, afterward -president of the United States, was a lieutenant in the army; and -attempts to refute this tradition by an appeal to the War Department -for the facts in the case. But unluckily, the information he derived -from this source was erroneous; for the Hon. Geo. W. McCrary, then -secretary of war, told him that the adjutant-general of the army -reported to him (McCrary) that Fort Madison was erected by Pike in -1805. Whereas, besides imperishable renown, Pike erected nothing in -1805 but his stockade on Swan r., and various patriotic flag-poles. -The difference between selecting or recommending a site for a fort, -and building one on that site, is obvious at sight. But Pike did not -even select or recommend this spot for a fort, the lowest one of -several which he did pick out being at Burlington: see next note. Z. -Taylor was a 1st lieut. of the 7th Infantry in 1808, appointed from -Ky.; which fact, as far as it goes, supports the tradition. The -Andreas Hist. Atl. of Ia. has it that the fort for which the town was -named was built in 1808; evacuated and burned by hostile Indians, 1813 -(qu. 1812?). On Monday, Aug. 4th, 1817, when Long visited the ruins of -Fort Madison, there was nothing left but some old chimneys, a covert -way leading from the main garrison to some sort of an elevated outwork -in the rear, and a number of fruit-trees on the ground which had been -a garden: see Minn. Hist. Soc. II., Part 1, 1860, 2d ed. 1890, p. 75. -In the fall of 1832 one Peter Williams settled on the present site of -the town. The old trading-house there was called Le Moine factory. The -old fort stood close to the river, and as I judge within a third of a -mile of the present State penitentiary. - -[I-21] About 18 m., to a position above the mouth of Skunk r., a little -below the Burlington bluffs; he calls it 5¼ m. to the locality he -presently describes with particularity, and which will be recognized -as the site of Burlington, seat of Des Moines Co., Ia. After passing -Madison on his left, with Niota and Appanoose on his right, he goes up -by Pontoosuc and Dallas, both in Hancock Co., Ill., and then has -Henderson Co., Ill., on his right. Further up, on the left, Lee Co. is -separated from Des Moines Co., Ia., by Skunk r. This is a large -stream, whose present pleasant name translates the Indian word -rendered Shikagua by Nicollet, and Shokauk by Featherstonhaugh; Lewis -and Clark map it as Polecat r. Beltrami, 1828, calls it Polecat r. and -River of the Bête Puante. Green Bay is a small place in Lee Co., on a -sort of slough which discharges into the river behind Lead isl., and -which is called Green bay. This is connected in some way, which for me -remains occult, with a creek called by Nicollet Lost cr.; it is a part -of the intricate waters between Skunk r. and that stream which runs -through Madison past the State penitentiary, where the bridge that was -built in 1887-88 strikes the Iowa side. Jollyville was a place on the -same waters, but seems to have been lost like the creek. Some of the -islands besides Lead, the present positions of which Pike passed, if -not these islands themselves, are now known as Dutchman, Hog, Polk, -Thompson, Peel, and Twin, the latter at the mouth of Skunk r. His camp -I suppose to have been about on the spot where one Sauerwein used to -keep his woodyard, about halfway between Twin isls. and the mouth of -Spruce (or Spring) cr. This is nearly opp. the middle of the great -island now called Burlington, formerly Big, being 7 m. long, separated -from the Illinois mainland by Shokokon slough, on which there is or -was a place called by this latter name. A number of creeks make into -this slough, among them those called Dug Out, Honey (Camp cr. of -Nicollet and Owen), and Ellison's. A place called Montreal started -near Ellison's cr., but does not seem to have survived. What Pike maps -as "Sand bank Creek," at a place he calls "Sand Bay," seems to be Dug -Out cr., or the next one below, which falls into the slough behind -Thompson's isl., near Dallas City. - -[I-22] This is the prairie through which meanders Henderson r., 6 m. -above Burlington. The Sac village was on its north bank. The prairie -and the village are lettered on the map as per text; the river is -shown there, without name; the Burlington bluffs are delineated, -marked "Positions for a Fort." The present city was built across the -mouth of Hawkeye cr., a rivulet which makes in above the steepest part -of the bluff, where the Flint hills recede a little from the river; it -extends to the larger Flint cr. or r., at whose mouth it may be said -to be situated. Across the Mississippi is East Burlington, Ill., at -the head of Shokokon slough; the bridge which the C., B. and Q. R. R. -built in 1867-68 spans the river and connects the two places. There -are numerous islands above Burlington, the principal of which are -O'Connell's, Rush, and Otter. Above Henderson r. there is nothing of -special note till we reach Oquawka, seat of Henderson Co., Ill., -reckoned 13 m. by the channel above Burlington. Pike omits his -customary mileages to-day, but did not get beyond Oquawka, which is at -the head of the prairie on which he camped; for here begin some steep -banks, known before and since Pike's day as the Yellow banks. He marks -them on his map, and they are mentioned by the same name in Forsyth's -narrative of 1819. - -[I-23] We are not told which side of the river this was, and the -sentence is otherwise ambiguous, as all streams hereabouts are -branches of the river. We know he means a bayou or slough, by -following which he expected soon to regain the Mississippi ahead of -his boats, and I suppose that Huron slough, on the Iowa side, led him -astray. The slough itself is not long, merely cutting off Huron and -some smaller islands for four miles; but this receives Iowa slough, -which meanders toward the river, and so would take Pike and Bradley -away from the river if they followed it up. This supposition is -strengthened by Pike's using the word "savannah," which with him means -rather marsh or bog than prairie, and he would hardly have applied it -to the better ground on the Illinois side if he had gone there and -been misled by Henderson r. Moreover, he continues to camp on the west -side, as he would naturally do after loss of the two men who went to -find his dogs; and also he expected to recover the men at the place -above where the hills first come down to the river, which is at -Muscatine, Ia. He does not say who these men were; they were not -recovered till Sept. 1st, at Dubuque. - -[I-24] This mileage is excessive, as are all those hence to Rock Island -or Davenport, the distance of which by the channel is 70 m. from -Oquawka, though Pike makes it 92. Moreover, the distance from Oquawka -to New Boston, directly opposite the mouth of the Iowa r., is only 18 -m., and Pike remains below the Iowa r. to-day. What with sloughing it, -losing his dogs, and waiting for his men, he did not get much beyond -Keithsburg, Mercer Co., Ill., which we may safely take as to-day's -datum-point. This is built under a bank at the mouth of Pope's cr., -and so far answers the requirements of Pike's camp opposite it. The -situation is in Louisa Co., Ia., but a little distance over the -boundary of Des Moines Co. Excepting Keithsburg, no notable point is -passed to-day. A place called Huron was started on the slough of that -name, but it never came to anything. Huron isl. is called Thieves' -isl. on some maps. The large one (No. 355) opp. Keithsburg, and -crossed by the railroad, is separated from the Iowan side by Black -Hawk slough. - -[I-25] Pike delineates "Sand Bank" on his map directly opposite the -mouth of Iowa r. This is the site of New Boston, Mercer Co., Ill. The -bank comes immediately upon the river with a frontage of 2 m., and -Edwards r. falls in at the foot of the bank, 3½ m. above Pope's r. At -New Boston the Mississippi turns sharply, so that the mouth of Iowa r. -is rather on the S. than W.; and the bank on which is the town recedes -northward, leaving low ground between itself and the Mississippi, -watered by the ramifications of Sturgeon bay, Illinois slough, Swan -lake, etc. This is what Pike means by his "Sand-bank prairie on the E. -side." As to that "marked Grant's prairie," I should observe that no -such name appears on the map as published; Pike referred to his -immense original draft in water-colors, now preserved in the War -Department, and from which the small printed map was reduced with the -omission of too many details. What he means by Grant's prairie is the -lowlands on the Iowa side before you come to Muscatine, which is the -point where the hills first reach the river-side. Compare Apr. 26th, -1806. Grant's prairie is now known as Muscatine isl., being virtually -cut off by Muscatine slough, whose lower mouth is hardly 2 m. above -the Iowa r., though the upper entrance is at Muscatine--a distance of -some 18-20 m. At one point this slough dilates into a body of water -which is now called Keokuk lake, but which was charted by Nicollet as -"L. Maskuding or in the Prairie." Here are obviously the origin and -meaning of the name "Muscatine." The town now so called was once known -as Bloomington. I suspect that "Grant's" prairie in Pike may be -intended for _Grande_ prairie; thus Beltrami calls it Grande Prairie -Mascotin, II. p. 196, and Forsyth has Grand Mascoutin. There was a -place started by the name of Port Louisa on the Iowan side of the -river, near one of the openings of Muscatine slough; but it seems to -have disappeared after bequeathing the name to the county, whose seat -is now Wapello. As to Pike's "28" miles to-day, that is best disposed -of by observing that to-morrow he drags his boat "nine miles, to where -the river Hills join the Mississippi," _i. e._, to Muscatine. So he -camps on the Iowan side, a certain distance below Muscatine. We shall -not be far out if we set him exactly on the boundary between Louisa -and Muscatine cos., opp. the lower end of Blanchard's isl., behind the -middle of which Copperas or Copper cr. falls in on the Illinois side. - -The great Iowa r. should not be passed without remark. For the name in -its extreme fluidity, see Lewis and Clark, ed. 1893, p. 20. Some still -more singular forms of the word than those there noted reach us from -the time when the French writers and cartographers used the figure 8 -for the letters _ou_; so that "Iowa" was liable to appear as Ay8ay -(Ayouay), or in some such form: Neill cites forms sing. and pl. as -Aye8ias, Ayo8ois, Ayooues, Ayavois, Ayoois, Ayouez, Ayoes, Aaiaoua, to -which I can add Aiavvi; another series of words flows from the -introduction of J or j: thus Pike, early text, 1807, p. 5, has Jowa, -and I have noticed also Ajoe, Jaway, Joway, Jowah, etc. Beltrami, -1828, has Yawoha, Yahowa, and Yawowa. This river-system waters a great -portion of the State, on courses S., S. E., and E. Pike says elsewhere -that in ascending it 36 m. you come to a fork, the right-hand branch -of which is called Red Cedar r. Waiving any question of distance, this -is correct; and moreover, Red Cedar is the larger of the two forks, -though by a very unusual freak of nomenclature the united stream Iowa -takes the name of the lesser fork. He further says that Red Cedar r. -branches out 300 m. from its mouth; which triple forking is "called -the Turkey's foot." This term seems to have lapsed; the situation is -in Black Hawk Co., above Cedar Falls, and one of the turkey's toes is -called Shell Rock r. The notable town of Cedar Rapids is lower down, -in Linn Co. The confluence of Iowa r. proper with Red Cedar is at -Fredonia, Louisa Co.; Pike's map represents this by the -pitchfork-shaped object, though it is not lettered with any name. He -marks a village of Iowas "about 10 miles up," on the "right" bank, -_i. e._, on the right-hand side going up, left bank. Iowa r. presents the -anomaly of a great river with nothing to speak of at its mouth (New -Boston is across the Mississippi). "Iowa City" seems never to have got -much beyond its original wood-pile, and a similar "city" which -Nicollet charts by the name of Black Hawk would be hard to find now. -There is, however, a little place called Toolsboro, under the hill on -the left bank, 2 m. above the mouth of the Iowa. - -[I-26] Pirogues: see L. and C., ed. 1893, p. 4. Pike uses this form -consistently. The most amusing variant of the word I have noticed -occurs in Shea's Hennepin's Descr. Louisiana, Eng. tr., 1880, p. 156, -where we read, "a number of parrakeets and about eighty cabins full of -Indians," and an editorial note informs us that "the French printer -put peroquets, but Margry's Relation gives the real word, 'pirogues,' -'canoes.'" - -[I-27] The distance between Muscatine and Rock Island is 28 or 29 m. by -the channel. As Pike has 6 or 8 m. to go before reaching Muscatine, -makes "28½" to-day, and "22" to-morrow, we can confidently set him -down to-night halfway between these two places--say vicinity of -Montpelier, Muscatine Co., Ia., 4 or 5 m. below Buffalo, Ia., and -Andalusia, Ill. There is no specially notable point in this whole -stretch, after Muscatine is passed; the most of a place is Fairport, -Ia., 3 m. above Tahma or Sweetland cr. Several places that were -started seem to have died young, if they were not stillborn; we find -on older maps such as Geneva, somewhere between Muscatine and Fairport -on the Iowa side, and Wyoming, apparently in the same position as -Fairport now is. Between Muscatine and Fairport the river is or was -recently divided into Drury slough, Wyoming slough, and Hersey chute -betwixt these. Pine cr. falls in on the Iowan side, 2½ m. above -Fairport. Opposite Fairport the long Andalusia slough opens, running -down on the Illinois side all the way from Andalusia, a distance of 9 -m. Pike's camp was probably on the Iowan side (still in Muscatine -Co.); across the river he has Rock Island Co., Ill. - -[I-28] Actually about 16 m., to one of the most definite locations of -the voyage thus far, in the heart of the present city of Davenport, -seat of Scott Co., Ia., and directly opposite Rock Island, seat of -Rock Island Co., Ill. Soon after passing present site of Montpelier, -Pike went from Muscatine into Scott Co., Ia. Next are the two towns -directly opposite each other, of Buffalo, Ia., and Andalusia, Ill.; -the former is marked N. Buffalo on Nicollet's map; the other is called -Rockport on Owen's map, or Rockport was then where Andalusia is now. -Linwood, Ia., is a small place 2 m. above Buffalo; and 3 m. above this -was the site of Rockingham, Ia. This last was started directly -opposite the mouth of Rock r., but never flourished. In fact there is -probably no place on the Mississippi where more mushroom towns have -been projected on paper by unscrupulous speculators than about the -mouth of Rock r.; and we observe that they mostly had resounding -names, well known in other parts of the world. A certain -Stephensonville is marked on Nicollet's map, apparently in the present -position of the city of Rock Island. In the mouth of Rock r. is a -triangular island, dividing the two outlets, and opposite this is -Credit isl. (No. 312), 1½ m. long. Pike's camp in Davenport was -probably about opposite the lower point of Rock isl., 2½ m. long; this -is No. 307 of the Engineers' chart, and its lower end was utilized for -the bridge built in 1869-72 by the C., R. I. and P. R. R. (Act of -Congr., July 26th, 1868). - -La Rivière de Roche, or à la Roche, of the French, which Pike and -others call Stoney or Stony and Rocky or Rock r., and which is now -known by the latter name, is the second largest in Illinois. It arises -in Wisconsin, in the region S. of Lake Winnebago, leaves that State at -Beloit, and holds a general S. W. course through Illinois to the -Mississippi. It used to be called Kickapoo r.--a name traceable to R. -des Kicapous of Franquelin's map, 1688. Pike gives its source as near -Green bay of L. Michigan, and ascribes a length of 450 m., 300 of them -navigable. His map letters "The largest Sac Vill." on its S. side near -the mouth, about the present position of Milan, and delineates the -extensive rapids of the Miss. r., above its mouth, which the text of -the 28th describes. Rock r. afforded one of the five or six principal -waterways between the Great Lakes and the Miss. r., the connection -being made above the Horicon marshes by portage from the small stream -which falls into L. Winnebago at Fond du Lac. But this way was less -eligible than the Fox-Wisconsin route. - -[I-29] See Lewis and Clark, ed. 1893, pp. 1202, 1203, 1211. James Aird -and his brother George were among the Sioux traders at the mouth of -the Minnesota or St. Pierre r. in 1803 and thereafter; others -similarly engaged then and there were Archibald Campbell, Duncan -Graham, and Francis M. Dease. - -[I-30] Davenport, Ia., to Le Claire, Ia., 16 m. by water; Rock Island, -Ill., to Port Byron, Ill., 17 m.; actual extent of the rapids somewhat -less than either of these distances. The chains, in ascending series, -are called Lower, Moline, Duck Creek, Winnebago, Campbell's, St. -Louis, Crab Island, Sycamore, Smith's, Upper. The principal islands -are: Rock, No. 307, 2½ m. long, with the little ones called Papoose -(No. 308), Benham's, and Sylvan, alongside; Campbell's, opp. -Watertown, Ill.; Spencer's, opp. Hampton, Ill., on the Iowan side; and -Fulton's. A number of creeks make in on both sides; among them are -Duck, Crow, and Spencer's, on the Iowan side, and the one on the -Illinois side which falls in by Watertown, name unknown to me. The -rapids were formerly guarded by Fort Armstrong, occupying an eligible -site on the extreme lower end of Rock isl. A good account of this -post, as it was in 1817, is found in Long's Expedition of that year, -printed in 1860 and reprinted in 1890, in Part I of II. of the Minn. -Hist. Coll., pp. 67-73. The places on the Illinois side are: Moline, -3½ m. above Rock Island; Watertown, 5 m. above Moline; Hampton, 1 m. -above Moline; Rapids City, 4½ m. above Hampton; Port Byron, 1 m. -further; land distances less than by river-channel. On the Iowan side, -between Davenport and Le Claire, are places called Gilberttown or -Gilbert, opp. Moline, and Valley City or Pleasant Valley, opp. -Hampton. Pike does not say where he camped at the head of the rapids; -but it was no doubt at Le Claire, as the channel ran on the Iowan -side. - -[I-31] This Fox Indian village is located on Pike's map, but without -name. It was on the Iowan side, above the rapids--not at Le Claire, -but somewhat further up, at or near present town of Princeton, Scott -Co., Ia. Forsyth in 1819 speaks of "the Little Fox village, 9 miles -above the rapids." A mile above Princeton, on the Illinois side, is -Cordova, marked Cordawa on Owen's map, and Berlin on Nicollet's. - -[I-32] At 4 m. above Cordova, Pike passed on the left or Iowan side a -river whose name is perhaps the most remarkable thing about it: -Wabisapencun, Pike's map; Wabisipinekan, Pike's text, further on; -Wabisapincun, Lewis and Clark's map of 1814; Wapisipinacon, Long's; -Wabezipinikan, Nicollet's; Wabesapinica, Featherstonhaugh's; -Wapsipinicon, Owen's and U. S. Eng'rs'; Wapsipinecon, G. L. O. No two -original authors agree, and when one tries to copy another he is -liable to be foiled by his printer. But the river runs on just the -same, through several Iowan counties, on a general S. E. course, -approximately parallel in most of its extent with Red Cedar r. It also -does duty as the boundary between Scott and Clinton cos., Ia., along -most of their apposed extent. There are several islands about its -mouth; one of them is called Adams. Opposite the mouth of the W----n -r., for a space of about 8 m. along the Illinois side of the -Mississippi, the hills recede, leaving a low place in which the body -of water known as Marais d'Osier, or Lake Willowmarsh, is situated: -see Pike's map, in the interval between his "High Prairie" (ending at -Cordova) and his "Rocky Hills" (beginning about Albany). Beltrami, II. -196, calls this Marais d'Ogé, and says it was "inhabited by a savage -of the same name"! Beltrami's bosom friend, Major Long, has a still -more startling rendition of the phrase, as Mer a Doge, in Minn. Hist. -Coll., II. Part 1, 1860, 2d ed. 1890, p. 67. It appears as Mare de Oge -on an Illinois atlas before me. From Le Claire to Albany is 18 m.; -Pike probably did not get quite so far as this, but for convenience of -keeping tally we will assume that he did, and set him on the lower -point of the great Beaver isl. (No. 291), at the mouth of Comanche -slough, directly opposite Albany, Whiteside Co., Ill.; nearest place -on the other side is Comanche or Camanche, Clinton Co., Ia. Beaver -isl. is 3 m. long, and extends up to Clinton, the county seat. - -[I-33] The distance by river-channel from Albany to Dubuque is reckoned -72 m. Pike's figures are 43 + 31½ + 25 = 99½ m. The required reduction of -mileage is about one-fourth off; applying which to the "43" m. of the -30th, we find Pike somewhere in the vicinity of Apple r., and may most -conveniently set him at its mouth. Decamping on the 30th, he first -made the stretch of Beaver isl., past Cedar and Cat-tail crs., right, -and came to Clinton. The original name of this city, or of its site, -was New York; both these terms seem to point back to the time when -Governor Dewitt C. Clinton was popular. The river was spanned here by -the bridge built by the C. and N. W. R. R. in 1864-65, utilizing -island No. 290. Two or three miles above stand, facing each other, -Lyons, Clinton Co., Ia., and Fulton, Whiteside Co., Ill.; around the -other side of the hill N. of Fulton, Otter cr. falls in. The line of -hills on the Iowan side comes to the river a mile above Lyons, but at -once recedes again, leaving along the river-side what is called the -Pomme de Terre, Potato, or Ground Apple prairie, at the head of which -Elk r. or cr. falls in, 8 m. above Lyons. The recession of the hills -on the Illinois side from Fulton is much greater for a space of 16 m., -where there is low ground for some miles back from the river, sloughy -the whole way near the river, and thus making various islands, the -largest of which are called Fulton and Savanna. Near the head of -Fulton isl. is a little place named Thompson, in Carroll Co., Ill. The -line of Whiteside and Carroll cos. strikes the river about halfway -between Fulton (town) and Thompson. On the Iowan side, the line of -Clinton and Jackson cos. is between Elk r. and Sabula. The latter -town, or its site, used to be called Charleston. It naturally grew -after 1881, when the C., M. and St. P. R. R. built the bridge here, -under Act of Congr., Apr. 1st, 1872. The site of Sabula is called -Prairie du Frappeur, Beltrami, II. p. 196, where it is said to have -been "inhabited by a savage of that name." Before crossing the river, -the track ran for a couple of miles on Savanna isl., at the head of -which Plum r. falls in; and immediately above this point is Savanna, -Carroll Co., Ill., 2½ m. from Sabula. The high ground comes close to -the river at Savanna, but on the Iowan side there is sloughy bottom -for 4 m. above Sabula, all this lowland being known as Keller's isl.; -above this, higher ground comes to the river-side at Keller's bar. -Rush or Big Rush cr. falls in on the Illinois side 5 m. above Savanna, -and 2 m. further is the mouth of La Pomme or Apple r., nearly up to -the boundary between Carroll and Jo Daviess cos., Ill. One Arnold used -to have his landing a mile below Apple r., about where we suppose Pike -to have camped. - -[I-34] Whatever the exact distance represented by this mileage, we have -to set the Expedition down in a very unhealthy place to-night, as will -presently appear. Soon after decamping from Apple r.,--that is, in 5 -miles' distance by the channel, Pike passes on his left a notable -stream, which he elsewhere calls the Great Macoketh. This is Makokety -r. of Nicollet, Maquoketa r. of others, whose name is now usually -spelled Makoqueta. This is also the designation of the county seat of -Jackson, situated upon the river. It falls in opposite Sand prairie, -about where the line between Carroll and Jo Daviess cos. strikes the -river. The "beautiful eminence on the W." which Pike observed is -Leopold hill, near Bellevue, Jackson Co., Ia. This town existed before -Nicollet's map was made, as he marks it by name. The locality called -Chéniere by Beltrami II. 196, was hereabouts. He gives it on the W., -10 m. above his R. la Pomme. The hills begin to approach the river -four or five miles below Bellevue, and so continue with little -interruption to Dubuque. The trough of the river is similar on the -Illinois side, but the hills do not hug the river so closely, leaving -a stretch of sloughy bottom, especially at the delta of the Galena r. -This is the insalubrious place of encampment. The Galena was long -named, and is still sometimes called, Fever r. The same slough by -which it discharges receives Smallpox cr.; and on the Iowan side, -opposite Harris slough, which is the upper end of the Fever delta, a -creek falls in known as Tête du Mort, or Tête des Morts. It must have -been a choice region of saturnine and miasmatic poisons, as the -victims of lead-palsy and ague-cake who lived on Fever r. had the -option of moving down on Smallpox cr. or over to Death's-head cr. The -place to avoid is pointed out to Mississippian tourists by Pilot Knob, -an isolated eminence on the prairie near the variolous creek, 3 m. S. -of the city of Galena, which is about the same distance up the febrile -stream. The cranial creek is said to have been so named on account of -the number of skulls which resulted from an Indian fight there. On -this point Beltrami, 1828, II. p. 160, has "a place called the -Death's-heads; a field of battle where the Foxes defeated the -Kikassias [Kaskaskias?], whose heads they fixed upon poles as trophies -of their victory. We stopped at the entrance of the river la Fièvre, a -name in perfect conformity with the effect of the bad air which -prevails there." Nor do I know what terrors may be hidden under the -name of Sinsinawa cr., which makes in a mile or two higher up, on the -Illinois side. Two of the sloughs at the delta are called respectively -Harris' and Spratt's; a third is Stone slough. One Gordon established -a ferry here, many years ago, and a place on the Iowan side, close to -the boundary between Jackson and Dubuque cos., is still known as -Gordon's ferry. Regarding the nomenclature of Galena r., we should not -omit to cite here Keating's Long's Exp. of 1823, published 1824, I. p. -212, where it is stated that Smallpox cr. and Fever r. are the same: -"a small stream, called by the Indians Mekabea Sepe, or Small-pox -river; it is the Riviere de la Fievre, which is said to enter the -Mississippi opposite to Dubuque's mines." Probably not much weight -attaches to this observation, which Major Long only made -parenthetically, and evidently at second-hand information, in speaking -of a badger which his party had killed and cooked; though it is also -quite possible that Galena r. once rejoiced in both names, one of -which was later conferred upon the small creek which enters its delta. -That Long knew the Galena as La Fièvre r. is certain, for he uses the -latter name, though without any accent, in the narrative of his voyage -of 1817, in speaking of reaching it on Monday, July 28th, of that -year. See Minn. Hist. Coll., II. Part 1, 1860; 2d ed. 1890, p. 66. It -appears that Long's MS. of his voyage of 1817 was placed in Prof. -Keating's hands when the latter was preparing for publication the -history of Long's Expedition of 1823. This source of information was -freely drawn upon; in fact, I do not see that Prof. Keating did not -fully avail himself of this opportunity to editorially embody in the -narrative of 1823 the whole substance of the 1817 materials, in so far -as Major Long went over the same ground in the two expeditions. But -the earlier narrative contains considerable matter not pertinent to -the later one, inasmuch as Major Long in 1817 traversed a long section -of the Mississippi that he did not retrace in 1823. On this particular -account, as well as for more general reasons, it was desirable and -eminently fitting that Long's Expedition of 1817 should be published; -and that was first done in long after-years by my friend, the late -Rev. Edw. D. Neill, the veteran Minnesota historian, who received the -MS. for this purpose from Dr. Edwin James, then of Burlington, Ia. -(who d. Oct. 28th, 1861). As originally published under Dr. Neill's -careful editorship, the article was entitled: "Voyage in a Six-Oared -Skiff to the Falls of Saint Anthony in 1817. By Major Stephen H. Long, -Topographical Engineer United States Army," and formed Part 1 of Vol. -II. of the Minn. Hist. Coll., 1860 (about 80 pages); 2d ed. 1890, -half-title and introductory note by E. D. N., one leaf; journal, pp. -9-83; map and appendix, prepared by A. J. Hill, pp. 84-88. Major -Long's movements of 1817 occupied 76 days, of which the journal here -printed covers the period from July 9th to Aug. 15th, both inclusive, -or 38 days; as it picks up Major Long after his return to Prairie du -Chien from a tour of the Fox-Wisconsin portage, takes him from that -Prairie to the falls, and returns him to Bellefontaine, near the mouth -of the Missouri. The objects of this voyage were to meander the upper -Mississippi and take its topography, with special reference to the -selection of military sites. It was performed in a boat furnished by -Governor William Clark, Superintendent of Indian Affairs at St. Louis. -Its most important single result was the speedy occupation of the -mouth of St. Peter's r. for a military post, at first called Fort St. -Anthony, and in 1824 named Fort Snelling; but the narrative is replete -with matter of permanent historical and scientific interest. Major -Long was a conscientious, competent, and well-equipped explorer, as -all three of his important and memorable expeditions attest. The -present expedition is the only one of which we have the account from -his own pen, as Dr. James and Prof. Keating, respectively, were the -authors of the other two. Stephen Harriman Long, of New Hampshire, was -appointed from that State a second lieutenant of Engineers Dec. 12th, -1814, and brevetted major of Topographical Engineers Apr. 29th, 1816, -though his actual majority in that corps was not reached till July -7th, 1838. He became colonel Sept. 9th, 1861, was retired June 1st, -1863, and died at Alton, Ill., Sept. 4th, 1864. - -[I-35] This Dubuque matter formed a part of Doc. No. 2 of App. to Part 1 -of the orig. ed., p. 5, and will be found beyond: see Chap. v. Art. 3. -The document was transmitted to General Wilkinson by Pike from Prairie -du Chien. - -[I-36] Chippewas, or Ojibways--of whom Pike has much to say in this -volume. The French nickname he uses, found also as Saulteurs, -Saulteux, Saltiaux, Sautiers, Saltiers, Soutors, Soters, etc., was not -given because these Indians were better jumpers than any others, but -because the band of Chippewas whom it originally designated lived -about the Sault de Sainte Marie, or St. Mary's falls, of Lake -Superior. The term afterward became synonymous with Chippewas or -Ojibways in a broad sense. On the map of Champlain's Voy., Paris, -1632, the Sault is marked du Gaston, for the brother of Louis XIII., -and there located between Mer Douce and Grand Lac, _i. e._, between -Lakes Huron and Superior. The chute seems to have been first heard of -about 1616-18, from one Étienne Bruslé, or Stephen Broolay. In 1669, -when the Jesuits reached the place, they changed the name to -compliment the B. V. M. There is no doubt that Ojibwa or Ojibway is -preferable to Chippewa or Chippeway, as a name of the tribe; but the -latter is best established, both in official history and in geography, -and may be most conveniently retained. These are the same word, -etymologically, and are mere samples of the extraordinary profusion of -forms in which the name exists. Very likely 50 different combinations -of letters could be produced, some of them bearing little resemblance -to one another. The meaning of the name is in chronic dispute. The -linguistic sages seem to be agreed that the word has something to do -with _puckering_; but whether it refers to the place which is puckered -up between the two lakes above said, or to the way the moccasins of -these Indians were puckered along a peculiar seam, or to the habits of -these Indians of torturing with fire till the skins of their prisoners -were puckered by burning to a crisp, are questions much agitated. The -learned Anglojibway, Hon. W. W. Warren, historian of his tribe, takes -the latter view, saying: "The word is composed of _o-jib_, 'pucker -up,' and _ub-way_, 'to roast,' and it means, 'to roast till puckered -up.'" Mr. Warren adduces also the name Abboinug, literally Roasters, -given by the Ojibways to the Sioux, from the same horrid practice. He -says that the Ojibways, as a distinct tribe or people, denominate -themselves Awishinaubay. Probably the best account we possess of these -Indians is that given in the Minn. Hist. Coll., V. of which is almost -entirely devoted to the subject (pp. 1-510, 1885). This consists of -Warren's history, based on traditions, and of Neill's, based on -documents. The two thus admirably complement each other, and are -preceded by a memoir of Warren, by J. Fletcher Williams. - -[I-37] Our name of these Siouan Indians comes from their Algonkin -appellation, which reached us through an assortment of French forms -like Ouinipigou (as Vimont, Relation, 1640), etc., several of which -have served as the originals of place-names now fixed in current -usage. The term Puants, meaning Stinkers, was the French nickname. It -is found as Puans, Pauns, Pawns, Paunts, etc., originated very early, -and was much in vogue. On the old map cited in the foregoing note -appears the legend "La Nation des Puans," though these Indians, with -their Green bay, are marked on it N. instead of S. of Lakes Superior -and Huron. The Stinkards gave occasion for a Latin synonym, as seen in -the phrase "Magnus Lacus Algonquiniorum seu Lacus Foetentium" of De -Creux's map, Hist. Canada, Paris, 1664. They were also called Gens de -Mer, Sea People. Jean Nicolet of Cherbourg in France, in the service -of Champlain's Hundred Associates, believed to have been the first -white man to enter Green bay, in July, 1634, calls them by their own -name of themselves, which he renders Ochunkgraw, and which later -acquired a variety of forms: see note 44, p. 39, and Butterfield's -Disc. N. W., 1881, _passim_, esp. p. 38. - -[I-38] Pike did not get far from Dubuque, if he left at 4 p. m. He -probably stopped at the first convenient place to camp above the -bluff, in the vicinity of Little Makoqueta r.--perhaps on the spot -where Sinipi, Sinipee, or Sinope was started. In bringing him up to -Dubuque from the Galena delta we have not much to note: Suisinawa, -Sinsinawa, or Sinsinniwa r., right; Menomonee cr., right, and Catfish -cr., left, between which is Nine Mile isl.; Massey, Ia., town at -Dodge's branch; East Dubuque, Ill., rather below the large city of -Dubuque. This is the oldest establishment in Iowa, as the Canadian -Frenchman Julien Dubuque came there in 1788; extinction of Indian -title and permanent settlement not till 1833; town incorporated 1837; -city charter, 1840; pop. 3,100 in 1850: for the rest, see any -gazetteer or cyclopedia. With this day's journey Pike finishes -Illinois, which has been on his right all the way, and takes Wisconsin -on that side; but Iowa continues on his left. The interstate line runs -on the parallel of 42° 30' N., which cuts through Dubuque. - -[I-39] From Dubuque to Cassville is only 30 m., and Pike was somewhat -advanced beyond Dubuque when he started. "The mouth of Turkey river," -opp. which he camped, is of course a fixed point; and this shows the -required reduction of his "40" miles to somewhat under 30. -Determinations like these would be proof, were any needed, of the -proposition advanced at the start, that the set of mileages with which -we have to deal require a discount of 20 to 25 per cent. as a rule. In -making his "two short reaches," Pike passed his Little Macoketh, the -Little Makoqueta r., on his left, and the extensive slough on his -right which receives the discharges of Platte and Grant rivers. He -maps the former river: see the unnamed stream on the left, where "M^r. -Dubuques Houfe" and "Lead Mines" are lettered. The other two rivers -are not laid down; they run in Grant Co., Wis. Beltrami, II. 196, has -a locality on the W. said to be 16 m. above Dubuque's mines, and to be -called Prairie Macotche, "from the name of a savage who inhabited it." -This item is no doubt imaginary; but Macotche is clearly the same word -as Makoqueta. Pike's "long reach" is the 15 m. or more where the river -is straight; it begins about Specht's Ferry (opp. which the Potosi -canal was dug for an outlet of Grant r.) and extends to Turkey r. On -the left, about halfway along this stretch, is the town of Waupeton -(Wahpeton, Warpeton, etc.), at or near which the boundary between -Dubuque and Clayton cos. strikes the Mississippi; the town of -Buenavista, Clayton Co., Ia., is 3½ m. higher, between Plum and -Panther crs. On the right a snicarty 11 m. long connects Grant r. with -Jack Oak slough, at the head of which Cassville is situated, at the -mouth of Furnace cr., and obliquely opposite the mouth of Turkey r. -Some places which started along the river have failed, or changed -their names; I do not now find Osceola, which maps mark near the mouth -of Platte r.; nor Lafayette, which started about the present site of -Potosi, and is now marked by some dilapidated chimneys you will -observe when the C., B. and Q. train stops at a sort of station there; -nor Frenchtown and Finlay, both on the Iowan side, the latter at the -mouth of a creek called Bastard on a map of 1857; nor Frankford, at or -near Buenavista; nor Winchester, about the mouth of Turkey r. Whether -by accident or design, Grant r. is lettered "Le Grand R." on -Nicollet's map. The Fox village, whose women and children were so -frightened at the sight of the Americans, is marked by Pike on the N. -side of Turkey r., near its mouth, about where Winchester seems to -have stood. Present Turkey R. Junction of the C., M. and St. P. R. R. -is on the other side. This stream is "Turkies" r. of Beltrami, II. p. -196. - -[I-40] Probably 19 m., Cassville to Clayton, Ia., whence he could go -comfortably for breakfast to Wyalusing, Wis., or still nearer the -Wisconsin r. Above the mouth of Turkey r. the Miss. r. is divided into -two courses, called the Casville slough on the Wisconsin side and the -Guttenberg channel on the Iowan side. The latter is the broadest -course, but the former is, or was some years ago, the main channel. -The two come together 10 m. above Cassville, and a mile or two above -Glen Haven, Wis. Guttenberg, Ia., is 8 m. above Cassville, at the -mouth of Miners, Miner's, or Miners' cr.; it seems to have been -formerly called Prairie La Port, as marked on Nicollet's map. Buck or -Back cr. falls in a mile above. Approaching Clayton the banks are high -and abrupt on the Iowan side, but on the other the hills recede, -leaving a sloughy bottom into which several creeks empty, one of them -Sandy cr., which comes by a sort of sand-bank. In this vicinity there -was a place called Cincinnati, Wis., which seems to have disappeared, -like another called Kilroy, on the Iowan side. Owen's map marks -Killroy, a Clayton Co. map of 1857 has Keleroy, and Nicollet lays down -the sizable creek near which it appears to have been situated, now -known as the Sny Magill. The distance from Clayton to Wyalusing is 3 -m.; thence it is about the same to the Wisconsin r. - -[I-41] R. des Ouisconsins on Hennepin's map, 1683, and thus near the -modern form, though in the plural for the Indians and with _ou_ for -the letter _w_ that the F. alphabet lacks; in Hennepin's text, -_passim_, Ouscousin, Oviscousin, Onisconsin, Misconsin, etc., -according to typesetter's fancy; Ouisconsing, Misconsing, etc., in La -Salle, and there also Meschetz Odeba; Miscou, Joliet on one of his -maps, Miskonsing on another; Ouisconching, Perrot; Ouisconsinc, -Lahontan's map; Ouisconsing, Franquelin's map, 1688; Ouisconsin, -Carver; variable in Pike; Owisconsin and Owisconsing in Beltrami; -Wisconsan, consistently, in Long; Wisconsin in Nicollet, and most -writers since his time. Were it not for La Salle's appearance on the -Illinois r. in 1680, and his sending Hennepin down it to the -Mississippi, when he dispatched Michael Accault and Antoine Auguelle -from Fort Crêvecoeur to trade with the Chaas, the Wisconsin would -rank first in historical significance as a waterway to the Mississippi -from the Great Lakes; and such priority of date is offset in favor of -the Wisconsin as the best and most traveled route from the lakes to -points below the Falls of St. Anthony. It was already an Indian -highway when it was first known to the whites, and did not cease to be -such when the paddle was exchanged for the paddlewheel. A pretty full -account of the Fox-Wisconsin route will be rendered beyond in this -work. There are accounts of white settlements, or at least -trading-posts, at Prairie du Chien about 1755; but white men may have -lived in this vicinity, if not upon the spot, long before that, for -Franquelin's map of 1688 locates a certain Fort St. Nicolas in what -appears to be the position of P. du Chien, as well as I can judge. -Moreover, Joliet and Marquette reached the Mississippi r. by way of -the Fox-Wisconsin, June 15th or 17th, 1673. Our most definite -information, however, dates from Oct. 15th, 1766, when Carver came to -the spot. He reached it by the Fox-Wisconsin route, went up the -Mississippi as high as the river St. Francis, wintered 1766-67 up the -St. Peter, returned to P. du C. in the summer of 1767, went up the -Mississippi again to the Chippewa r., and by that river back to the -Great Lakes in July, 1767. He called the place Prairie le Chien; at -the time of his visit it was "a large town containing about 300 -families," with houses well built after the Indian fashion, and a -great trade center for all the country roundabout. Carver also called -the place Dog Plains. This is plain as a transl. of the F., and nobody -doubts what Prairie du Chien denotes; what it connotes, however, or -its actual implication, is another question which has been much -mooted. Pike states elsewhere in this work that the place--which, by -the way, he seldom if ever calls Prairie du Chien, but de Chein, des -Cheins, etc.--was named for Indian_s_ who lived here, known as -Reynards, etc., and would translate this F. nickname either Fox, Wolf, -or Dog; in one place he has Dog's Plain. But Wolf or Dog does not seem -to have been the name used for this tribe, which, when they were not -called Ottagamies (or by some form of that word) were either the -Reynards of the French or the Foxes of the English and Americans. -Beltrami, II., p. 170, has that "it takes its name from an Indian -family whom the first Frenchmen met there, called Kigigad or Dog." The -whole weight of evidence is on the side of a personal name in the -singular number. Long states that P. du C. was named after an Indian -who lived there and was called the Dog. This may bear on Pike's -statement, and the latter may be explicable upon the understanding -that it refers to certain Indians, not necessarily of the Reynard -tribe, who were called Dog Indians, _i. e._, The Dog's Indians. -Nicollet marks the Indian town by the Chippewa name, Kipy Saging; -Schoolcraft renders this Tipisagi, with reference to the treaty of -Prairie du Chien. At the time of Long's 1823 visit the village had -about 20 dwelling-houses besides the stores, most of them old and some -decaying; the pop. was about 150. He located the place as in lat. 43° -3' 31" N., long. 90° 52' 30" W.; magn. var. 8° 48' 52" E. Long -speaks of one Mr. Brisbois, who had long resided there; of Mr. Rolette -of the Am. Fur Co.; and of Augustin Roque, a half-breed and -whole-fraud, to whom we shall refer again. Fort Crawford began to be -built July 3d, 1816, by the troops under the command of -Lieutenant-Colonel William S. Hamilton of North Carolina, who had -attained that rank in the 3d Rifles Feb. 21st, 1814, and who resigned -from the army March 8th, 1817; it would hold four or five companies, -but was a mean establishment, poorly built on a bad site, too near -Rousseau channel and the Kipy Saging slough. Long relates that in 1822 -the fort as well as the village was inundated, so that the water stood -three or four feet deep on the parade ground and ran into the -officers' quarters and the barracks, forcing the garrison to camp for -a month on higher ground. One of the blockhouses of the fort was built -on a mound which was large enough to have supported the whole -establishment, though only the stockade ran up to it. Through the -attentions of Wm. Hancock Clark of Detroit, Mich., I am in possession -of a water-color picture of the fort, roughly but tellingly done by -his illustrious grandfather, William Clark, who with Governor Lewis -Cass effected the important treaty of P. du C., Aug. 19th, 1825. This -measures 18 × 15 inches, and shows a part of the stockade straggling -up to that one of the blockhouses which was on the hill or mound, as -described by Long. The general effect upon the beholder is to suggest -something of a cross between a penitentiary and a stockyard, but -unsafe for criminals and too small for cattle. The remains are extant, -and may be observed about 40 rods W. of the railroad track, half a -mile S. of the station of the C., B. and Q. This Fort Crawford must -not be confounded with the earlier one of the same name, built in 1812 -or sooner, at the N. end of the town, close to Rousseau channel. This -site was near the positions of the two early French settlements, as -distinguished from the later one that grew up S. of the site of the -second Fort Crawford. Our actual settlement, continued on as the -Prairie du Chien of to-day, only dates from 1835 or thereabouts, after -the cessation of Indian hostilities in that quarter; the town is now -the seat of Crawford Co., Wis. It is in the very S. W. corner of the -county, which is separated from Grant Co. by the Wisconsin r. The -bridge across the Mississippi to N. McGregor was built in 1873-74 and -altered in 1888; C., M. and St. P. R. R.; Act of Congr. legalizing, -June 6th, 1874. Notwithstanding its prominent situation, its -distinguished history, and its comparative antiquity, Prairie du Chien -has never amounted to much, and probably never will. There is nothing -the matter with the place--the trouble is with the people. The place -to-day cuts a lesser figure than it did in Pike's time, when it was -our extreme frontier post in that direction, and it continued to be -such until Fort St. Anthony (Snelling) was built. A part of the -difficulty is ecclesiastical; no priest-ridden community can expect to -keep up with the times. Prairie du Chien is an antique curio, -comparing with the rest of Wisconsin very much as Quebec does with -Ontario--and for similar reasons. - -[I-42] The bluff W. bank of the Miss. r., opp. P. du C., was later -called Pike's mountain; which, says Long's MSS. of 1817, No. I, fol. -37, as cited by Keating, 1824, received its name from having been -recommended by the late General Pike, in his journal, "as a position -well calculated for the construction of a military post to command the -Mississippi." But this recommendation is nowhere made in Pike's -journal: it is made in a letter which Pike wrote to General Wilkinson -from P. du C., this date of Sept. 5th, as the above text says, and -which formed in the orig. ed. Doc. No. 2 of the App. to Part I--the -same that covered the Dubuque report. The particular hill that Pike -picked out does not differ from the general range of bluffs which -extend on that side of the river for several miles, all of about the -same elevation. But to be particular, it was that hill which stands -between McGregor and N. McGregor. The original settlement of McGregor -was called in the first instance McGregor's landing. This was 1½ mile -below N. McGregor, built at the mouth of the creek that comes down by -Pike's mountain. This stream used to be known as Giard or Gayard r. -(latter on Pike's map), and these were common spellings of the name of -a person otherwise known as Gaillard, of mixed French-Indian blood, -said to have been, with Antaya and Dubuque, one of the three first -white settlers at Prairie du Chien, and by Long to have died suddenly -during the latter's expedition up the Wisconsin r. The present name of -the creek is Bloody Run, which may easily have acquired if it did not -deserve the designation in some one or more of the uncounted fierce -collisions of this blood-brued region. But tradition, if not authentic -history, ascribes the origin of the sanguinary title to the Nimrodic -exploits of the celebrated Captain Martin Scott, a mighty hunter who -used to kill so much game in that vicinity that he was said to have -made this stream literally run with blood. But so much used to be told -about Captain Scott--on whom was fathered in those parts the story of -the coon which promised to come down if he would not shoot, elsewhere -connected with the name of Davy Crockett--that the legends concerning -him may pass for what they may be worth. The mouth of this creek is 3 -m. below that of Yellow r., and the boundary between Clayton and -Allamakee cos. strikes the Mississippi between the two, though very -near the mouth of the latter. - -[I-43] See note _anteà_, p. 5, where the phrase Cap au Grès is -mentioned. Pike's term Petit Gris, elsewhere Petit Grey, would be -preferably rendered Petit Cap au Grès, in the peculiar system of -phonetics which our Parisian friends are wont to enjoy. This Little -Sandstone bluff extends up the Wisconsin in the direction of -Bridgeport. A small creek which comes down a break in the bluff, and -empties into the N. side of the Wisconsin a mile above its mouth, is -also named Petit Gris or Grès. There was also a Grand Grès in that -vicinity--to judge from a creek I find on some maps by the name of -Grandgris--perhaps the branch of the Wisconsin now known as Kickapoo -r. Pike's recommendation of the Petit Grès as a military site was -never acted upon. - -[I-44] I think Pike never once hits what a grammarian would consider the -proper way to write this phrase. Wherever he happens upon it, the -gender or the number gets awry. The hitch in pluralizing seems to be -because the first _s_ is sounded before the initial vowel of the next -word, but the last _s_ is silent, because the French seldom articulate -their letters at par. _Folle avoine_, literally "fool oat"--a phrase -also reflected in the Latin term _avena fatua_--is the Canadian French -name of the plant known to botanists as _Zizania aquatica_, and to us -common folks as wild rice, wild oats, water-rice, water-oats, Indian -or Canadian rice or oats, etc. My friend Prof. Lester F. Ward, whom I -desired to prepare the botanical definitions for the Century -Dictionary, and who did write them, with the assistance of Mr. F. H. -Knowlton, after the lamented death of Prof. Sereno Watson, Prof. Asa -Gray's successor at Cambridge, defines _Zizania_ as "a genus of -grasses, of the tribe _Oryzeæ_. It is characterized by numerous narrow -unisexual spikelets in a long, loose androgynous panicle, each -spikelet having two glumes and six stamens or two more or less connate -styles." This would be news to the Menominees, though these Indians -subsisted so largely upon the seeds of the plant that the French -called them les Folles Avoines, and the English knew them as the -Rice-eaters. This rice grows in profusion in all the lacustrine -regions of the N. W., and is regularly harvested by all the Indians of -that country, to be sold or bartered as well as eaten by them. Its -great size, its purplish spike-like heads when ripe, and its -omnipresence, render it one of the most conspicuous products of the -region. The Indians do not cut the stalk as we reap our cereals, -because the loose grains fall so readily that the easiest way to -gather them is to simply shake or beat them into a canoe. As to the -polyglot council which Pike held with the Puants, we may hope without -believing that the Winnebagoes were deeply impressed by the -combination of New Jersey and Canadian French which fell upon their -ears through the Dakotan tongue. It is true that the Winnebagoes come -of Siouan stock, and so have some linguistic affinity with the Sioux; -but the dialect they acquired is conceded by all philologists to be -peculiar to themselves, and peculiarly difficult to utter. The -Winnebago spoken at this council was probably as different from the -Dakotan as Latin is from its cognate Greek, or even as Pike's French -was from that spoken in Montreal or Paris. The Winnebagoes call -themselves by a name which is rendered Otchagra by Long, Howchungera -by Featherstonhaugh, Hotcañgara by Powell; also Ochungarand, -Hohchunhgrah, and in various other ways which authors prefer and -printing-offices permit: see note 37, p. 31. Since Charlevoix they -have been known as Puans, Puants, or Stinkers--and they deserve to be. -Their vernacular is noted for the predominance of the growler or -dog-letter _r_, _litera canina_ of the Latin grammarians. - -[I-45] Billon's Ann. St. Louis, 1804-21, pub. 1888, p. 382, is obviously -in error in stating that Pierre Rousseau embarked with Pike at St. -Louis; for here we have him first hired at P. du C. I know nothing -further of the man; but he is doubtless the one from whom Rousseau -channel of the Miss. r., which runs past P. du C. on the Wis. side, as -distinguished from the main steamboat channel past McGregor on the -Iowan side, derived its name. - -[I-46] Joseph Reinville or Renville was the name of two persons, father -and son, former French-Canadian, latter half-breed by a Sioux squaw of -the village of Petit Corbeau or Little Raven (Kaposia). Long extolls -him for ability and fidelity as an interpreter, remarking that he had -met with few men that appeared "to be gifted with a more inquiring and -discerning mind, or with more force and penetration," Keating, Exp. of -1823, I. p. 312. Reinville naturally acquired great influence over the -Indians, and when the British decided to use such allies in the war of -1812-14, he was selected by Colonel Robert Dickson as the man who -could be most relied upon to command the Sioux. In his military -capacity he received the rank, pay, and emoluments of a captain in the -British army, and distinguished himself as well by humanity as by -gallantry in war. After this he entered the service of the H. B. Co.; -left it, relinquishing also his British pension, and returned to his -old trading-post near the sources of Red r., where he established the -successful Columbia Fur Co. Reinville had that energy and independence -which enabled him to decide for himself and act upon his decisions; he -therefore made bitter enemies as well as warm friends, whose judgments -of his character and conduct were, of course, as diverse as their -feelings for or against him. Reinville was born at Kaposia, near St. -Paul, about 1779, and died in March, 1846: see sketch of his life by -Rev. E. D. Neill in Minn. Hist. Soc. Coll., I., 2d ed. 1872, pp. -196-206. - -[I-47] This Frazer I do not doubt was a relative of the Robert Frazer, -Frazier, Fraser, etc., who accompanied Lewis and Clark. The latter was -a "Green Mountain boy," and it is highly improbable that two unrelated -Frazers came from Vermont to the Western frontiers in the beginning of -this century. But I can only conjecture what their degree of kinship -was. One Joseph Jack Frazer cut a figure in early Minnesota history, -if we may judge from the sketches of his life and adventures which ran -through the columns of the St. Paul Pioneer, about 1866 or 1867, from -the pen of General Henry Hastings Sibley. In this connection I may be -permitted to note the fact, not generally known, that Robert Frazer -was one of several annalists of that famous expedition, who went so -far as to issue a MS. prospectus of a book he was going to publish -about it, with Captain Lewis' own sanction. But this project failed -for lack of subscribers to what any publisher would now be glad to -accept, could the MSS. be found. See Prof. James D. Butler's review of -my L. and C., N. Y. Nation, Oct. 26th and Nov. 2d, 1893. - -[I-48] Pike's was luckier than Long's boat-party of 1823, which started -from P. du C. as Pike did, but did not get much above Yellow r. It -consisted of Thomas Say, the subsequently distinguished naturalist; -Prof. W. H. Keating; Mr. Samuel Seymour, the artist; the rascally -interpreter Roque or Rocque; and Lieutenant Martin Scott, the latter -in command of a corporal and his squad of eight soldiers. These men -tapped a keg of liquor, and got too drunk to navigate--the crew did, I -mean, for it is well known that officers never drink. Yellow r. is -present name of the stream consistently so called since it ceased to -be R. Jaune of the French régime; it has been already mentioned as -falling in on the W., 3 m. above Bloody Run and N. McGregor. Three -miles higher, on the same side, is Paint cr., or Painted Rock cr., -near a place full of historic interest; for at one point along the -almost unbroken bluffs is the steep escarpment which became known to -the F. as Roche Peinte, or Rochers Peints, and which continues to be -called Painted Rock or Rocks, from the Indian pictographs with which -it was adorned for ages. Beltrami gives it as Pointed Rock, II. p. -196. High places of all sorts, whether the elevation be phallic or -terrene, have always been regarded as great medicine by the untutored, -from the days of the priests of Baal, Moloch, or Jahveh, to those of -the similar shamans and marvel-mongers of Lo. Such theological -jugglery is reflected in the present name of Waucon or Waukon -Junction, near the mouth of Paint cr., where the Chic., Dub. and Minn. -R. R., meandering the river, sends the Waukon branch to Waukon, seat -of Allamakee Co., Ia. A town, or something that tried to be one, by -the prosaic name of Johnsonsport, is to be found on some maps at the -mouth of Paint cr. About 4 m. above Waukon Junction is a place called -Harper's Ferry, suggestive of Virginian emigration. The bluffs hug the -Iowan bank closely to Paint cr. The opposite side is low for some -miles back, with sloughs or bayous known as Marais, Courtois, Sioux, -etc., into which drain several creeks, among them one called -Fisher's--no doubt for the gentleman who entertained Pike--and another -named Pickadee; both these are received in Sioux bayou. But above -Paint cr. the channel runs, or recently did run, on the Wisconsin -side, having an intricate snicarty on the other, whose various courses -are known as Seaman's slough, Big Suck-off, Gordon's bay, Martell's -lake, Center, Harper, St. Paul, Crooked, Ferry, etc., sloughs. -Wherever the channel was in Pike's time, he says that he camped on the -W. side, and I suppose at a point about opposite present town of -Lynxville, Crawford Co., Wis., which is reckoned 17 m. above P. du C. -by comparatively recent hydrographers. To reach this place he passed -Trout cr., which falls in on the right hand nearly opp. Painted Rock, -and the site of Viola, at the mouth of Buck cr., also on the right. - -[I-49] Say Island No. 142, or head of No. 143, for a present location -which exactly fits, being on E. side, 4 or 5 m. below mouth of Upper -Iowa r., and opp. De Soto, Wis., on the border of Crawford and Vernon -cos. The camp itself is of little consequence, in comparison with the -notable points passed to reach it, at Pike's Cape Garlic and in that -vicinity. At the head of Harper and Crooked sloughs the channel runs -under the Iowan bluffs to Lansing, Allamakee Co., Ia., 12½ m. from -Lynxville. On the Wisconsin side for the same distance is a remarkably -labyrinthic snicarty, whose principal run is called Winneshiek slough, -upon which is Ferryville, Crawford Co., Wis., at or near the mouth of -Sugar cr. The series of creeks which fall into these sloughs is as -follows, in ascending order: Kettle, above Polander hollow; Copper, -above Cumming's hollow; Buck (duplicating a name: see last note); the -Sugar cr. just said; and Rush, above Ferryville. The river sweeps -under the bold Iowan headlands, two prominent points of which became -known as Cape Garlic and Cape Winnebago--one from the alliaceous plant -growing there, and the other from the incident about to be cited; -while two of the four streams which fall in through four breaks on -these bluffs were correspondingly called Garlic r. or Cape Garlic cr., -and Winnebago r. or Cape Winnebago cr. Authors differ as to which is -which; I make the following determinations: 1. At the point where the -main channel of the Mississippi divides into Crooked and Harper -sloughs, 8 m. below Lansing, and near where Heytman had his landing, a -large creek falls in. This is properly Garlic r.--the one on which the -town of Capoli is situated. _Capoli_ means Cape Garlic, being a -perversion of the F. Cap à L'Ail--a phrase that has been peculiarly -unlucky at the hands of compositors and engravers; even on Nicollet's -map it stands by accident Cap a' Lail, though the eminent geographer -himself was un Français de France, whose mother-tongue was academic. -Beltrami, II. p. 197, expands the phrase to Cape à l'Ail Sauvage. 2. -Three miles above the mouth of Capoli cr. a rivulet falls in between -two eminences; the lower one of these is present Capoli bluff, -formerly Cap Puant or Cape Winnebago; the upper one is now called -Atchafalaga bluff, formerly Cap à l'Ail or Cape Garlic; the rivulet -just said is Pike's Garlic r. 3. At 4½ m. higher, through a recess in -the highlands falls in the stream now called Village cr., which -Nicollet maps as Cape Winnebago cr. This is the one on which the town -of Village Creek is situated, 3 m. up. Its mouth is exactly a mile -below the mouth of Coon or Clear cr., on which Lansing is situated, -under Mt. Hosmer--this "mountain" being that part of the bluffs which -is isolated between the two creeks just said to fall in a mile apart. -With thus much by way of geographical determinations, I must leave to -someone more familiar than I am with the local traditions or actual -history of the place, to identify the exact scene of the following -incident, given in Keating's Long's Exp. of 1823, pub. 1824, I. p. -266: "Two remarkable capes or points were observed on the right bank -of the Mississippi below Iowa river; the lower one is designated by -the name of Cape _Puant_, because at a time when the Sioux and -Winnebagoes (_Puants_) were about to commence hostilities, a party of -the latter set out on an expedition to invade the territory of the -Sioux and take them by surprise; but these being informed of the -design, collected a superior force and lay in ambush near this place, -expecting the arrival of their enemies. As soon as the Winnebagoes had -landed, the Sioux sallied from their hiding-places, pressed upon them -as they lay collected in a small recess between the two capes, drove -them into the river, and massacred the whole party. Garlic cape, just -_above_ [italics mine] this, strikes the voyager by the singularity of -its appearance. In shape it represents a cone cut by a vertical plane -passing through its apex and base; its height is about four hundred -feet." I suppose the "small recess" of this recital to be that between -present Capoli (lower) and present Atchafalaga (upper) bluffs, -respectively former Cape Winnebago (lower) and former Cape Garlic -(upper) bluffs. - -[I-50] La Feuille is a name which Pike rarely, and only by accident, -spells correctly. But in writings of the period it was extremely -variable, being found even as Lefei, Lefoi, Lefoy, La Fye, etc. This -French term commonly appears in English as The Leaf, sometimes Falling -Leaf, and is conjecturally a translation of the native name of the -hereditary chiefs of the Kioxa (Kiyuksa) band of Sioux. This has -usually been rendered Wabasha or Wapasha, and explained as derived -from _wapa_, leaf, and _sha_, red. In one place Long has Wauppaushaw. -In Riggs and Pond's Dakota dictionary the name is given as Wapahasha, -and etymologized as from _wapaha_, a standard, and _sha_, red. In -Minn. Hist. Coll., I. 2d ed. 1872, p. 370, J. Fletcher Williams -surmises the origination of the name in the chieftainship of the -Warpekutes, otherwise Leaf Shooters--though why the tribe was so -called, and whether the English term is a proper version of the -aboriginal name, seem never to have been satisfactorily shown. Such -forms of the chief's name as Wabashaw and Wapashaw, etc., are common, -besides which there are some odd and rare ones; _e. g._, Beltrami, II. -p. 180, has: "The Great Wabiscihouwa, who is regarded as the Ulysses -of the whole nation." Three chiefs named Wabasha are known to us in -history. Wabasha I. was famous during the Revolutionary war. Wabasha -II. was his son, and the latter is the one of whom Pike, Long, -Beltrami, and many others speak. He was already a great chief in -Pike's time, who grew in credit and renown with years. He was seen in -1820 by General Henry Whiting, who describes him as a small man with a -patch over one eye, who nevertheless impressed everyone with respect, -and whose profile was said to resemble that of the illustrious Condé. -"While with us at Prairie du Chien," says Whiting, "he never moved, or -was seen, without his pipe-bearer. His people treated him with -reverence. Unlike all other speakers in council, he spoke sitting, -considering, it was said, that he was called upon to stand only in the -presence of his great father at Washington, or his representatives at -St. Louis." He was not a warrior, believing that Indians could prosper -only at peace with one another and with the whites, and declared that -he had never been at war with the latter, though many of his young -men, against his advice, had been led astray in the war of 1812. His -son, Wabasha III., resided at the village below Lake Pepin until 1853, -and in 1872 was living on the Niobrara Reservation. - -[I-51] To go up to the mouth of Upper Iowa r., for the conference with -Leaf's band of Sioux, who received the Expedition with almost touching -warmth, as Pike goes on to narrate. His map letters "Upper Iowa -River," and marks "Sioux Vill." on the S. side near the mouth. Pike's -text of 1807, p. 7, has Jowa: Beltrami has Yahowa in text, Yawowa on -map: for other forms see note 25, p. 22. The river is a large one -which, with its tributaries, drains a N. E. portion of Iowa and some -adjoining Minnesota land. The river discharges by a set of sloughs in -such intricate fashion that it is not easy to locate its principal -mouth with entire precision, to say nothing of where it was at Pike's -visit; recent hydrographic surveys, on the scale of a mile to the -inch, show the largest opening at a point exactly 2½ m. S. of the -inter-State line between Iowa and Minnesota, which runs to the -Mississippi on the parallel of 43° 30' N., through the village of New -Albin, on Winnebago cr., and cuts through Lost slough. Assuming this -position, which is probably right within a fraction of a mile, Pike is -precisely opposite the place where was fought the decisive battle of -Bad Axe, notable in history as finishing the second Black Hawk war. -Black Hawk was the most celebrated chief during the Sac and Fox war, -b. about 1768, at the Sac vill. near the mouth of Rock r. in Illinois, -d. on the Des Moines, in Iowa, Oct. 3d, 1838. In the campaign of 1832 -the Indians were defeated on the Wisconsin r. July 21st, by Colonel -Henry Dodge, and again Aug. 2d by General Henry Atkinson. Zach. Taylor -had become colonel of the 1st Infantry Apr. 4th, 1832, and had his -hdqrs. at Fort Crawford, P. du Chien. He moved his forces under -General Atkinson, and caught the Indians opposite the mouth of Upper -Iowa r., as they were preparing to cross the Mississippi; the battle -of Bad Axe was fought, the hostiles were defeated, and their -organization was broken up. Colonel Taylor returned to P. du Chien -with the troops he commanded, and soon afterward received the formal -surrender of the Sac chieftain, whose sagacity was as great as his -courage. Black Hawk was sent by Taylor, with about 60 of his people, -as a prisoner of war to General Winf. Scott, and with some of them was -confined for a while in Fortress Monroe; released June 5th, 1833. The -first stream of any size, on the Wisconsin side, above the scene of -action was named and is still called Bad Axe. A place above Battle cr. -and Battle isl., very near the battle-field, if not actually on the -spot, was started by the name of Victory, which it still bears. This -is directly on the river-bank, at the mouth of a rivulet which makes -in there, about a mile below the spot where one Tippet had his -landing. Tippet's place was nearly opposite the Iowa-Minnesota State -line, and 1½ m. S. of the lower mouth of Bad Axe r. As the price of -their defeat the S. and F. Inds. were obliged to surrender a large -tract of land, about 9,000 sq. m., along 180 m. of the W. bank of the -Mississippi, and, perhaps, 50 m. broad; this became known as the Scott -or the Black Hawk purchase, and later as the Iowa district; it was -attached to the Territory of Michigan for judicial purposes in 1834, -and the separate Territory of Iowa was made July 4th, 1838. - -[I-52] By the river channel barely over the Iowa State line into Houston -Co., Minn., obliquely opposite Tippet's landing, and about a mile -below the mouth of Bad Axe r., which falls in on the Wisconsin side. -Pike continues to have Wisconsin on his right until he crosses the -mouth of St. Croix r. - -I suspect that the _Upper_ Iowa r., which Pike has just left, has a -longer historical record than that with which it is generally -credited. Franquelin, 1688, maps a large river above the Wisconsin and -below Root r., thus apparently in the position of the Upper Iowa. He -letters Indians on it as Peoueria and Tapoueri. Perrot's Ayoës r. -seems to be the same, as is certainly the Ioua r. of Lewis and Clark's -map, 1814. Long has Little Ioway r. in 1817, and Upper Iaway r. in -1823. - -[I-53] This is not very definite--perhaps Pike forgot to wind up his -watch after the Sioux affair. But we shall be about right to set him -down at Brownsville, Houston Co., Minn.; this is below Root r., which -he passes to-morrow, and within convenient reach of the place, 3 m. -beyond La Crosse, to which he comes on that rainy day. Starting from -the State line, as already said, he first rounds Bad Axe bend, at the -mouth of Bad Axe r., and then comes to the town of Genoa, 8¼ m. above -Victoria. Genoa used to be called Bad Axe; but they do not seem to -have fancied the name, or perhaps the Victorians crowed over them, and -told them stories about George Washington and his little hatchet, so -it was changed. Bad Axe r. is also found with the F. name Mauvaise -Hache: _e. g._, Beltrami, II. p. 178. A mile above Genoa the river -divides in two courses, inclosing an irregularly oval cluster of -islands 6½ m. long; that on the Minnesota side is Raft channel, which -runs part of the way under bluffs; the one on the Wisconsin side, -which is or was lately the steamboat way, is Coon, Raccoon, or Racoon -slough, with a creek of these names coming in about its middle, 3 and -2 m. above Britt's and Warner's ldgs., respectively. The hills are -some miles back on this side, with a break where Coon cr. comes in, -and so continue all the way to Prairie La Crosse. Brownsville is at -the mouth of Wild Cat cr., 1½ m. above the place where the two courses -of the river reunite, or rather begin to separate; and this town is 21 -m. by the river-channel above Victoria--for Coon slough is very -crooked. Britt's ldg. became the site of a place called Bergen; and -one by the name of Stoddard is on the slough a little above Coon cr., -about opp. Brownsville. The Wisconsin county line between Vernon and -La Crosse comes to the river between Stoddard and Mormon creeks. - -[I-54] R. aux Racines of the French; Racine or Root r., the latter name -now most used, though in the case of a well-known Wisconsin city the -F. word persists as the name. Nicollet calls it Hokah or Root r., and -so does Owen. The Franquelin map of 1688 marks a certain R. des -Arounoues, which some authors identify with Lahontan's semi-mythical -R. Morte or Longue, and refer both to Root r.; but this is -questionable. Long speaks (I. p. 247) of Root r. as having its Dakotan -name Hoka, and being supposed to be the same as the Rivière Long or -Rivière Morte of Lahontan, I. p. 112, called by Coxe in 1741, p. 19 -and p. 63, Mitschaoywa and Meschaouay. He utterly discredits the -Baron's "180 leagues" of this river, as well as his fabulous nations -"Eokoros," "Essanapes," and "Gnacsitares." Without prejudice to the -perennial question, which it would be a pity to settle now, whether -the Baron was a knave or a fool, or most likely both, it may be -observed that Major Long is mistaken in supposing his Hoka or Root r. -to be the one which Lahontan represents himself to have gone up; for -if he went up any real river, that is Cannon r., as Nicollet urges, -and would clinch his argument by calling it Lahontan r.: see beyond. -Hokah, Racine, or Root r.--to use all three of the sure names--is a -large stream which runs E. through several of the lower tier of -Minnesota counties, and falls in through Houston Co., 3½ m. directly -S. of La Crosse, though the distance is more than this by the winding -river-channel. Mormon cr. comes into the slough on the Wisconsin side -opposite Root r., immediately below La Crosse prairie. The slough on -the Minnesota side above Root r. is called Broken Arrow--and this, by -the way, is connected with a certain small Target lake; so that no -doubt some actual incident gave rise to both these names. This lake is -the outlet of Pine cr. - -[I-55] Three of Pike's river-miles beyond La Crosse bring him to La -Crescent, Houston Co., Minn., close to the border of Winona Co.--not -that he says he camped on the W. side, but he would naturally select -that side in preference to the other, where the various outlets of La -Crosse and Black rivers make such a snicarty. La Crescent is curiously -so called, apparently in rivalry with La Crosse, and perhaps by some -individual who thought he knew what La Crosse means, and was minded to -suggest by the Turkish emblem that the star of the new place was in -the ascendant and the town bound to grow. Thus far, however, it has -been more of an excrescence from La Crosse than a crescence of itself. -_Crosse_, in French, does not mean "cross," but the game of hockey, -shinny, or bandy, and the crooked stick or racket with which it is -played. Pike describes the game beyond, under date of Apr. 20th, 1806. -The F. word for "crescent" is _croissant_. The beautiful Prairie à la -Crosse was so called by the French because the Indians used to play -ball there when they felt safe; and when the enemy appeared they could -scoop holes in it and scuttle into them in a few minutes. The river -which laves this ball-ground on the N. became La Rivière de la Prairie -à la Crosse, which we naturally shorten into La Crosse r. Pike says la -Cross and le Cross, usually. I have seen it spelled Crose. Lewis and -Clark's map of 1814 letters "Prairie La Crosse R." Long has in one -place Prairie de la Cross. Featherstonhaugh turns the phrase into Ball -Game r. It was probably by accident that Long once gave it as La Croix -r.; for he is careful in his statements, and his editor, Keating, is -scholarly. This slip is particularly unlucky, as it is liable to cause -confusion with St. Croix, name of the large river higher up on the -same side. The city of La Crosse was started on the edge of the plain, -immediately over the river, and gave name to the county of which it -became the seat. Two of the islands which the city faces are Grand and -La Plume, respectively 1¼ and ¾ m. long. Close above La Crosse r.--in -fact, connected with one of its mouths at the place where the town of -North La Crosse was planted--is Black r. This has a long history. La -Salle speaks of it as R. Noire and Chabadeba [Beaver], in his letter -of Aug. 22d, 1682; R. Noire appears on Franquelin's map, 1688; -Hennepin has it under the Sioux name Chabedeba or Chabaoudeba, and the -like, translated Beaver r. Franqulin locates a certain Butte -d'Hyvernement, or wintering-hill, at the mouth of R. Noire; Menard and -Guerin are said to have ascended the latter in 1661. The most -remarkable things about the mouth of Black r. are the extraordinary -length of its delta and the great changes which this has experienced -within comparatively few years. The waters of Black r., though it is -not a very large stream, have found their way into the Mississippi -from La Crosse upward for 12 m. or more. There are now a number of -openings, though the principal one is the lowermost, nearest La -Crosse. Nicollet, writing about 1840, gives this as the "new mouth" of -the Sappah or Black r. (Sapah Watpa of the Sioux), and calls the next -one Broken Gun channel. This is rendered by F. Casse-Fusils in -Beltrami, II. p. 178, who recites the gun-breaking incident. This -channel now opens opposite the mouth of Dakota cr., which falls in -under Mineral bluff, at a place called Dakota. The main former -debouchment seems to have been at a point about 12 m. direct above La -Crosse, through what is now known as Hammond's chute. In Pike's time -the mouth was evidently high up, for he does not pass it till the -13th. The present (or recent) channel is turbid and sloughy for some -miles up from its contracted opening into the Mississippi, reminding -one of the similar but more pronounced expansion of St. Croix r. above -its mouth. The width of the delta, or its extent sideways from the -Mississippi, averages between 3 and 4 m., inclusive of a higher piece -of ground it incloses, called Lytle's prairie or terrace; this is 4¼ -m. long and 20-30 feet above high-water mark; Half Way cr. comes -around its lower end. The vicissitudes of Black r. may be among the -reasons why exact identification of some places about its mouth in the -early French writers is not easy. Speaking with reserve, and ready to -stand corrected by anyone who knows more than I do about it, I do not -see why the traditional Butte d'Hyvernement may not have been Mt. -Trempealeau. As for the extent of the Black River basin, this is long -enough to begin in Taylor Co., where waters separate in various -directions, and to run through Clark and Jackson cos.; thence the -river separates La Crosse from Trempealeau Co. till it reaches the -town of New Amsterdam; after which the river enters its delta in La -Crosse Co., and the county line runs 5 or 6 m. to the Mississippi on a -parallel of latitude. - -[I-56] From La Crosse to the town of Trempealeau is reckoned 19 m. by -the channel; the mountain is 3 m. further by the same way. Pike was -advanced beyond La Crosse when he started from La Crescent, and his 21 -m. no doubt set him snug under the famous hill whose F. name snagged -him when he reached it. This is not the mountain which "deceives" -(_trompe_) in the water, as by mirage or reflection of itself -reversed; but one which rises so abruptly from the water's edge that -it seems to bathe, or at least to soak its feet, in the water, and was -therefore called by the French la Montagne qui Trempe à l'Eau--a -clumsy phrase which we have reduced to Mt. Trempealeau, Mt. Trombalo, -and various other terms not less curious. There is a notable -assortment of names along the river. On decamping and crossing the -bounds of Houston Co. into Winona Co., Minn., Pike comes to the Rising -Sun--though his course is about N., and we are not informed whether -this name advertises a certain stove-polish, or is meant to throw in -the shade both the Turkish crescent and the Christian cross. E. of -Rising Sun is Minnesota isl., on the Wisconsin side. A few miles -further is a place in Minnesota by the Teutonic name of Dresbach, at -the head of Dresbach's isl.; 1½ m. further is a town with the Siouan -name Dakota; while E. of these (across the Black r. delta in Wis.) is -a place called Onalaska, suggestive of Captain Cook's voyage to the -Aleutian isls. One Winter used to have his ldg. on the Wis. side, 2½ -m. above Dakota, and in the vicinity of the place where Black r. -debouched in Pike's time--Winter's ldg. being a singular verbal -coincidence, almost like a pun upon the old name of hibernation (Butte -d'Hyvernement), which appears on the earlier pages of Mississippian -history. At 3 m. above Winter's ldg. stands Richmond, which was -established under Queen's bluff on the Minn. side. Both of these names -suggest English Colonial history of the times when a certain country -was named Virginia--certainly not to quiz one of the greatest women who -ever graced a crown, but to emphasize a diplomatic euphemism. The -"highest hill" in this vicinity is Queen's bluff, also known as Spirit -rock--not that called Kettle hill by Long in 1817; its elevation was -determined by Nicollet to be 531 feet, but was reduced to 375 feet by -later measurements. The town of Trempealeau, in the Wis. co. of that -name, is midway between Richmond and the mountain; but before Pike -reached the latter, he passed on his left the site of Lamoille, Minn., -built under the bluff, about 300 feet high, between two creeks whose -names are Trout and Cedar. It is really wonderful how much history is -hidden--or revealed--in mere names. Personal and local words are the -most concrete facts of history. If, for example, those which appear in -this paragraph were set forth at full length in proper historical -perspective, we should have a perfect panorama of scenes and incidents -along 20 m. of the river for 200 yrs. The myrionymous molehill on the -river, which has been dignified by the name of a mountain because there -are no mountains to speak of in Wisconsin or Minnesota, and which has -been belittled by a set of phrases so absurd that it could not be further -ridiculed if one were to call it Mt. Trombonello, or Mt. Trump Low, or -Mt. Tremble Oh, or Mt. Soak-your-feet-in-mustard-water-and-go-to-bed-oh, -has not only conferred titles on a town and a county in Wisconsin, but -also on the river which washes its foot, and which is known by one of -the most unique circumlocutory phrases to be found in geographical -terminology: La Rivière de la Montagne qui Trempe à l'Eau, of the -French; River of the Mountain, etc., Pike; Mont. q. t. à l'E. r., -Owen; Mountain Island r., Nicollet; Bluff Island r., Long--and so on -through all the chimes that can be rung out of paraphrase. It is now -usually called Trempealeau r., and forms the boundary between this and -Buffalo cos. The Sioux name of the mountain is rendered Minnay -Chonkahah, or Bluff in the Water, by Featherstonhaugh. A more frequent -form of this is Minneshonka. The Winnebago name is given as -Hay-me-ah-chan or Soaking mountain in Hist. Winona Co., 1883. The -island on which the mountain rests has a corresponding series of -names. - -Pike passed to-day the place where was once situated an old French -fort, which has lately been unearthed alongside the Chic., Burl. and -N. R. R. The site is on the S. half of the S. E. quarter of Section -20, Township 18 N., Range 9 W., 1¾ m. above the village, and 1½ m. below -the mountain, of Trempealeau. It was discovered by T. H. Lewis, July, -1885, and by him examined in Nov., 1888, and again in Apr., 1889: see -his article, Mag. Amer. Hist., Sept., 1889, and separate, 8vo. p. 5, -with three cuts, and postscript dated Feb. 22d, 1890. See also T. H. -Kirk, Mag. Amer. Hist., Dec., 1889, article entitled, "Fort Perrot, -Wisconsin, established in 1685, by Nicholas Perrot," with reference to -the evasive Butte d'Hyvernement, or wintering-hill of the Franquelin -map, 1688. The separate of Mr. Lewis' article is entitled, "Old French -Post at Trempeleau, Wisconsin." "Fort Perrot," as a name of this -establishment, must not be confounded with the one often so called on -Lake Pepin. - -[I-57] A meaningless phrase as it stands, and one open to various -rendering, as L'Aile, L'Ail, or L'Île. Pike's text of 1807, p. 12, has -L'aile; Long's of 1807, as printed in Minn. Hist. Coll., II. Part 1, -2d ed. 1890, p. 175, has Aux Aisle; Beltrami's, II. p. 180, gives aux -Ailes. "The site of Winona was known to the French as La Prairie Aux -Ailes (pronounced O'Zell) or the Wing's prairie, presumably because of -its having been occupied by members of Red Wing's band," Hist. Winona -Co., 1883. It is easily recognized by Pike's vivid description: see -next note. Long, _l. c._, calls it "an extensive lawn," and notes the -situation on it in 1817 of an Indian village, whose chief he calls -Wauppaushaw by a rather unusual spelling of the native name of La -Feuille. Forsyth, 1819, names it Wing prairie. - -[I-58] From his camp in the vicinity of Trempealeau and Lamoille towns, -a little below the Mountain which, etc., Pike makes it 21 m. to-day -and 25 m. to-morrow to a point opp. the mouth of Buffalo r. He is -therefore to-day a little short of halfway between Trempealeau and -Alma. From Trempealeau to Fountain City is 20 m. by the channel; from -Fountain City to Alma is 22 m. Pike camps to-day at Fountain City, -Buffalo Co., Wis., immediately below the mouth of Eagle cr. The island -at the head of which he breakfasted, and where Frazer's boats came up, -was No. 75, which separates the Homer chute, also called Blacksmith -slough, from the rest of the Mississippi. Though narrow, this is, or -lately was, the steamboat channel. Opposite is town of Homer, Winona -Co., Minn., under Cabin bluff (most probably Kettle hill of Long). At -1½ m. above Homer, on the same side, is the town of Minneopa. Here the -bluffs recede from the river; here Pike left his boats for an -excursion on the hills. The "Prairie Le Aisle," which he first -crossed, is in Burris valley. The highest point of the hills which he -ascended for his prospect is called the Sugarloaf. Standing there -to-day, we overlook Winona, seat of the county, and at the foot of the -hills between us and the town is Lake Winona, nearly 2 m. long, -discharging into Burris Valley cr. Looking E. from the Sugar-loaf, -down-river, we perceive that the Mountain which, etc., is simply a -point of the bluffs which stands isolated in the delta of Trempealeau -r. To our left of it as we look, and beyond it eastward, stretches the -high prairie between the delta just said and that of Black r. Rambling -further along the hills back of Winona we come to Minnesota City, at a -break in the bluffs through which a rivulet finds its way into Crooked -slough. From this spot Fountain City is in full view, 3½ air-miles off -on a course N. by E., under Eagle bluff, on the other side of the -river. A portion of these bluffs is probably that called Tumbling Rock -by Forsyth in 1819. We could keep along the hills till they strike the -river about 5 m. further. But Mr. Frazer is anxious to get back to the -boats; very likely Bradley and Sparks are also. So we descend into the -bottom from Minnesota City, flounder across some sloughs, and on -reaching the W. bank of the Mississippi, we signal to our men to come -over in a canoe and ferry us to Fountain City. - -[I-59] Fountain City to Alma, 22 m. Camp opp. Alma, in Wabasha Co., -Minn., amid the intricacies of the Zumbro delta. For many miles above -and below this place--from Chippewa r. down to Winona, say 40 m.--the -Father of Waters, like the father of Shem, Ham, and Japhet, if we can -credit the chronicles of that ancient mariner, gets himself in very -bad form. He reels along as if he would like to take both sides of the -bluffs at once. Great skill has been shown by engineers in trying to -steer him in the way he should go; much money has been spent in -throwing out jetties like friends at each elbow of the staggering -patriarch, to mend his ways; some of his worst lurches have been -dammed as a matter of necessity, and all of them have been otherwise -objurgated as a matter of course by every steamboat captain. The late -General G. K. Warren, who was intrusted with the responsible duty of -surveying the river with reference to the improvement of navigation, -makes a most accurate observation in his preliminary Rep., Ex. Doc. -No. 57, 2d Sess. 39th Congr., p. 19: "It is often remarked, 'What a -slight thing will cause a change of the river.' But it is erroneous to -infer from this that it is easy to make it change as we wish. Effects -are often accumulating unobserved during a state of unstable -equilibrium. A slight cause then disturbs this, and marked changes -take place. But it is exceedingly superficial to attribute the whole -effect to this last cause." In consequence of the great changes in the -river, both natural and artificial, since the days of Pike, we must -not assume the present or quite recent details to be those of Pike's -time; nor should we presume to speak censoriously regarding the -identification of such things as Carver's supposed fortifications of -1766-67. Within the bounds of the solid, if not eternal hills, through -which the water has excavated its trough, we have the great river safe -enough. But these bounds are some miles apart, and between them all is -in the "unstable equilibrium" of which the eminent engineer just cited -speaks. The result is incessant shiftiness or shiftlessness, not only -as regards the sloughy bottoms and snicarties themselves, but in -respect of the sands which accumulate in various places and form banks -or terraces which sometimes take such shapes as to be easily mistaken -for artificial mounds. The cardinal principle of sound archæology is -to assume every mound to be a natural formation until it is proven to -be the work of man. One of the most notable historical instances in -point is that of the "fortifications" at Bon Homme, on the Missouri -r., which deceived even so accurate an observer as Captain Clark: see -L. and C., ed. 1893, p. 103, _seq._, and pl. Some of the present or -quite recent water-ways in the vicinity of Fountain City are those -known as Pap chute, Betsy, Haddock, and Rollingstone sloughs, -Horseshoe bend, and Fountain City bay, into which Eagle cr. falls, -under Eagle bluff. The hills then come to the river on the Minnesota -side, and so continue past Mt. Vernon to Minneiska. One of the boldest -of these headlands is called Chimney Rock. Some have an altitude of -450 feet. On the other side the bluffs recede above Fountain City, -break to give passage to Eagle c., start again about 2½ m. from the -river, and thence upward approach gradually till they strike the river -at Alma. The space between these hills and the river bottom is partly -filled by a sand terrace for about 9 m., with an average width of a -mile. On the edge of the upper one of these banks is Buffalo City, 2 -m. above which a place was started by the name of Belvidere. The -boundary between Winona and Wabasha cos. comes on a parallel of -latitude to the river at Minneiska, a town named for the river at -whose mouth it is situated, under high bluffs, facing the lower part -of Summerfield or Summerfield's isl., which is 4 m. long. This river -is Pike's "Lean Clare," clearly by typographical error, as he -elsewhere has Riviere l'Eau Clair, almost right, and correctly -translates the phrase by Clear r. and Clear Water r. This is also -White Water r. of Long and others, at present the usual alternative -name of Minneiska r.; Miniskon r., Nicollet; Miniskah r., Owen; -Minneska r., Warren; and so on with the forms of the Indian word. -Clear r. comes into the bottom between the Minneiska bluffs and a -certain isolated hill to the northward, in the vicinity of which Clear -r. is still or was lately connected with one of the lowest sluices of -the Zumbro r. This last is what Pike calls riviere Embarrass (river -Embaras, ed. 1807, p. 13). The French named it Rivière aux Embarras, -from the difficulty they found in attempting to navigate it, and we -have made Zumbro out of this embarrassment. Nicollet calls it Wazi Oju -r., in which he is followed by Owen and others. Its delta extends -practically from Minneiska to Wabasha, a distance of 20 m. by the -Mississippi channel. The opening which Pike takes as the mouth is the -lower one, as he passes it before camping opp. Alma. This delta -incloses one long, narrow sand terrace, continuous for 9 m., and -several similar but smaller banks, as well as an extensive system of -sloughs and islands. The West Newton chute and accompanying islands -are among these; and Pike's camp was at the head of this chute, -directly opposite Alma and the mouth of Buffalo r. The history of this -river dates back to 1680 at least: R. des Boeufs, Hennepin, map, -1683; River of Wild Bulls, Hennep., Engl. transl.; Boeufs R., -Lahontan, map; Buffaloe or Buffalo r., Pike, Long, Nicollet, Owen, -etc.; Beef r., Warren and others; _cf._ also, R. de Bon Secours of the -early F. writers, whence Good Help r. by translation. Some connect the -two names, as R. des Boeufs ou de Bon Secours, as if the supply of -beef had been a great relief. There were plenty of buffaloes on this -part of the Mississippi in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, -and indeed down to some early years of our own. But they were -exterminated or driven off soon after Fort St. Anthony (Snelling) was -built in 1819. Fort St. Antoine appears in earliest connection with -the river. Its own mouth has no doubt been fixed since prehistoric -times by the solid Alma bluffs around which it sweeps into the -Mississippi. But the delta of Chippewa r., whose main discharge is by -a contracted opening 9½ direct miles above the mouth of Buffalo r., -extends between these two points, and is meandered by the intricacies -of Beef slough, which such competent professional opinion as Warren's -pronounces to have once divided the main Chippewa: Ex. Doc. No. 57, -etc., p. 13. "The Chippeway river had a large lateral gorge like that -of the St. Croix to fill up before reaching the valley of the -Mississippi, and it now joins the Mississippi by a very complete set -of delta streams, beginning about 15 miles above its mouth. There was -a time when the mouth now known as Beef slough was about equal to the -main Chippeway. In their growth each kept along the bluffs or sides of -the gorge they were filling up, raising their immediate banks and -leaving a depression between them. The bank which the present -Mississippi finally put across the delta was not then there, and large -trees grew up on this intermediate space. The delta having finally -reached the Mississippi, the water was more rapidly raised in Lake -Pepin. This intermediate space was closed up on its third side by the -new forming bank of the Mississippi, and became a lake. The trees in -it then perished, and their submerged parts, preserved by the water, -remain standing in the lake at this time [July 31st, 1865]. This place -is known as Stump lake, and this name it bore among the aboriginal -Sioux (Chan-poksa-m'dé). The lower of these two delta mouths became -obstructed and dammed up by the new forming banks of the Mississippi; -the lower part of it then filled up, and it finally broke through its -own banks into Stump lake, so that it now issues therefrom in several -much obstructed channels, almost entirely useless to navigation.... -The Trempealeau and Black rivers repeat the operation of the Chippeway -on a smaller scale, the Wisconsin probably on a greater, other streams -doing the same in proportion to their size." In this view of Beef -slough as an obstructed channel of the Chippewa, Beef or Buffalo r. is -simply an affluent of the Chippewa, precisely as the Minneiska is of -the Zumbro, or La Crosse of Black r.; and other such cases of -originally distinct rivers falling into the Mississippi as one by -their deltopoetic processes could easily be cited. - -[I-60] "Grand Encampment" is a phrase in use since Carver's Travels -first appeared. Carver first came to Lake Pepin Nov. 1st, 1766. Those -who wish to verify the fact will find it on p. 34 of the Phila. ed. of -1796, which is commoner and therefore more accessible than any of the -earlier ones; the London princeps, 1778, is a rare book; the place is -p. 54 of this ed. On p. 35, Carver says the place was "some miles -below Lake Pepin." This left the location in the air, especially as he -does not say which side of the river; and various authors have raised -such a fog about it that we might be excused if we failed to find it -anywhere. By Pike as above, the place is between Buffalo r. and -Chippewa r.; he starts late, noons on the spot, and gets into Lake -Pepin at dusk. On his return voyage, Apr. 15th, 1806, he stops at the -place; he makes it on the right (west) bank, 9 m. below Lake Pepin. -When Long comes by, in 1823, his boat-party camps opposite the mouth -of Buffalo r., just as Pike did yesterday; on the 30th of June they -find themselves "a few miles" below L. Pepin, and much concerned to -discover Carver's "fortifications": see Keating, I. pp. 276-78. The -upshot of their long discussion is the conclusion that Carver did -really see what he says he saw, but that the works he described were -not at the Grand Encampment, where they found no fortifications. But -this is clearly a non sequitur, or a lucus a non, or a petitio -principii, or an argumentum ad hominem, or whatever may be the logical -definition of an illogical syllogism. It misses the point. The -question is not one of identifying Carver's locality; the question is -whether what he saw there was an artificial work or a natural -formation. The place can be pointed out with the point of a pin stuck -through the map, provided the topography has not changed too much for -that during the century; for the point which now points to Carver's -location is Point Teepeeota of the U. S. survey chart. The point -above, at which Major Long's boat-party landed an hour or two later -that day, and "which appeared to correspond with the description" of -Carver's place, though "their search here was likewise unsuccessful" -(p. 278), is the present site of Wabasha--the place where Nicholas -Perrot is thought to have landed in 1683, and built a log fort, the -first thing of the kind in all that country, afterward marked on some -maps as Fort Perrot. Teepeeota pt. is the projecting end of the long -narrow sand-drift or sand terrace already mentioned as extending 9 m. -or more in the delta of the Zumbro; it strikes the Mississippi -immediately below the Middle mouth of the Zumbro, and in fact -determines the position of that opening. Teepeeota pt. is 4½ m. direct -above Alma, somewhat more than 5 m. by the channel; it is 3 m. direct -below Wabasah, a little more by the channel; it is 6 m. below the -upper mouth of Chippewa r., say 7 by the channel. The Indian name -would be more correctly rendered Tipiotah--_tipi_ meaning a lodge or -dwelling (such as is called "wigwam" in novels, but seldom so on the -spot) and the rest of the word denoting multitude; the paper-town -there, called Tepeeotah City, went up in smoke, 1859. The island off -Teepeeota pt., but a little lower down, is now called Grand Encampment -isl. Of the accuracy of this identification I do not see how there can -be any question, though time has modified the contour details in the -course of nature, as well as in the course of the engineering work -done there of late years. These fortifications of the river against -its own sands are doubtless the only ones of any magnitude that have -ever been made on the spot, before or since Carver; though there was -nothing to hinder the Sioux from scooping holes in the sand-drift and -scuttling into them when the Chippewas came in sight, as we know they -did at Prairie La Crosse and elsewhere. Under these circumstances, I -think the gentlemen of Major Long's party were as unjust to themselves -in doubting their own identifications (in which they were supported by -Hart, Rolette, and others who knew about the place), as they were to -Carver in saying, p. 277: "No gentleman of the party would be willing -to ascribe to Carver a scrupulous adherence to truth, (personal -observation having convinced them all of the many misrepresentations -contained in his work)." If this is meant to charge Carver with -willful misrepresentation, I think it is unjust as well as ungenerous. -Carver mistook a natural for an artificial work--so did William Clark, -to the extent of drawing one to a scale and describing it in the terms -of military science--so have done many professional archæologists. -Carver made mistakes, like the rest of us; he was often loose about -distances, dimensions, and such things; he believed more things that -were told him than a less honest and more wary wayfarer would have -taken to be true; but I think that he drew a short bow for so long a -journey, had no occasion to deceive anyone but himself, and always -intended to tell the truth as it seemed to him--in short, I do not see -how his good faith can be seriously questioned. I accept Carver's -statements, as I do those of Pike, Long, and other honest persons, for -what they may prove to be worth. - -[I-61] R. des Sauteurs, etc., of the French, _i. e._, River of the -Chippewas, with all the uncounted variations of the latter word, from -such forms as Ouchipouwaictz to the present Chippewa, Chippeway, or -Chipeway. Pike's 1807 text has Sautiaux r., p. 13. Beltrami has -Cypewais in text, Cypoway on map. Present usage among geographers -favors two _p's_ and no _y_; the ethnologists incline rather to -Ojibwa. This one of the major tributaries of the Mississippi now falls -in by its main upper mouth 1½ m. below the end of Lake Pepin, from the -N., nearly at a right angle; it is somewhat bottle-nosed--that is, -with a contracted orifice of a turgid body of water, though the -dilation is not so great as in the case of the St. Croix. The general -character of the delta has been already discussed in connection with -Beef slough. Pike has this on his right all the way from Alma to L. -Pepin. On his left he passes Grand Encampment isl. and dines near -Point Teepeeota, already described as the point of that sandbank I -should wish to call Carver's Terrace. He next comes to Wabasha, seat -of the Minnesota county of that name, so called from the celebrated -Sioux chief of whom we read much in Long, I. p. 272, and elsewhere; -his name is there spelled Wapasha, and his village was at that time -not on this spot, but lower down (Winona). The site of Wabasha -duplicates the situation at Point Teepeeota; it is in the Zumbro -delta, below the Upper Zumbro outlet, on the point of a sand-bank -identical in formation with Carver's Terrace, though much -smaller--under 3 m. in length, and less than a mile wide. Passing -Wabasha, Pike comes 2 m. to the town now called Read's Landing, at the -uppermost point of the Zumbro floodplain, almost opposite the mouth of -Chippewa r. Nicollet marks "Roques," _i. e._, Augustin Rocque's -trading-house, in about the right position, _i. e._ at present site of -Wabasha, where Rocque's old chimney was evidence in 1884. This person, -whose last name might be spelled with a _g_ as well as his first, very -likely lived on more than one spot in the course of his career. -Featherstonhaugh informs us that "Ruque's" Indian name was -Wajhustachay, and that his house stood on the edge of a high prairie, -50 feet from the water, at S. E. end of L. Pepin, right bank, opp. -Chip. r.; which fits in only with the site of present Read's Landing. -Here the C., M. and St. P. R. R. bridged the Miss. r. in '82 (Act of -Congr., Mar. 28th, '82). As indicated in an earlier note, the Chippewa -is one of the main waterways between the Mississippi and the Great -Lakes; the connection will be more particularly noted hereafter. -Carver went this way in June or July, 1867, after he had wintered up -the St. Peter. For some distance from its mouth this river separates -Pepin from Buffalo Co. - -[I-62] Apparently a misprint: Alma to Read's Landing, near the foot of -Lake Pepin, 12 m. by the crooked channel; thence to Wakouta, near the -head of the lake, is only 25 m., and Pike is not yet halfway through. -He says himself that he made 3 m. further to Sandy pt., and then 18 m. -up to Cannon r. He undoubtedly ran for shelter from the gale at or -near Stockholm, Pepin Co., Wis. The channel is or has lately been -along the Minnesota side to Lake City, crossing obliquely to the other -side in passing Stockholm, then leaving for the Minn. side to reach -Point No Point, and so on up this side to Wakouta, Red Wing, and -Cannon r. "_Le lac est petit, mais il est malin_": I faithfully copy -this venerable Jo Miller, and am ready to agree that the lake is not -big, but bad. It is reckoned about 21 m. long, averaging about 2½ -broad; thus it is merely a dilation of the Mississippi, like that of -the St. Croix and some other Mississippian tributaries, though on a -larger scale. The Chippewa r. was concerned in the formation of Lake -Pepin, and the two have had some reciprocal effect. General Warren's -opinion may be here cited, Ex. Doc. No. 57, 1866-67, p. 11: "In order -to better understand the formation of the present bottom-land valley, -and comprehend the existing state of things, we must go back to the -time when, by the elevation of the continent above the ocean, the -present rivers, like the Wisconsin and Chippeway, began to flow into -the channel formed by the present Mississippi bluffs. As soon as the -sediment brought down by their waters had filled up the lateral chasm -by which they joined the Mississippi, this sediment would begin to -obstruct the flow of the Mississippi water, force its channel to the -opposite side, and narrow and dam it back till the water gained -sufficient force to carry the sediment down the valley. The continual -sorting out of this sediment would leave the heavier particles behind, -so that this bar would continually increase in elevation and form a -lake above. There are evidences of the effect of the Wisconsin in -making such a dam in the neighborhood of Prairie du Chien, also by -other affluents above their mouths, which lakes have since been filled -up. In the case of the Chippeway and Lake Pepin this effect still -remains, the affluents above the Chippeway not having been able to -fill up the lake which was formed. It seems almost impossible to doubt -that this is the origin of Lake Pepin, and there are evidences in the -shape of the sand and boulder spits along the Mississippi bluffs above -Lake Pepin, such as are only formed now in it and Lake St. Croix, -which indicate that the lake formerly extended up much higher than -now.... The river now enters Lake Pepin by three principal mouths, and -the land of the delta gently slopes down to and under the water. It -has advanced very slowly, if at all, since first visited by white men. -The largest sized cottonwood trees, dying of old age, are found on the -islands within two miles of the head of the lake. The small willows on -the low and extreme points seem of an almost uniform size and age; and -are small more, perhaps, from the unfavorable condition in which they -are placed than from want of time to grow since the land was formed. -The bottom in the shoal places at the head of Lake Pepin is composed -of soft mud, and not of sand. It seems probable that nearly all the -other islands of the Mississippi were formed in similar lakes by -advancing deltas, until finally the lakes were filled up. Lake Pepin -has almost no current, and deepens gradually down to near the point of -entrance of the Chippeway, and then rapidly shoals and narrows to form -again the flowing river." Lake Pepin is curved on itself, more so than -the old-fashioned Italic letter _{~LATIN SMALL LETTER LONG S~}_, -there being a bend in the middle -reach which is oblique between the straight and approximately parallel -reaches at the two ends--say W. N. W. and E. S. E., then N. and S., -then nearly W. and E. The lake nearly fills the space between the -bluffs in which it is embedded, but there are several pieces of arable -bottom-land in places where the bluffs recede, furnishing the sites of -a corresponding number of settlements, mostly at points where creeks -or brooks fall in between gaps in the hills. Such are Pepin and -Stockholm, Pepin Co., Wis.; Maiden Rock City and Bay City, Pierce Co., -Wis.; Lake City, Wabasha Co., Minn.; Florence, Frontenac, and Wakouta -or Wacouta, Goodhue Co., Minn. Maiden Rock City is under the line of -bluffs, about 400 feet high, to several of which the Winona legend -attaches; but this town is at the mouth of Rush cr., and thus nearly 5 -m. by the railroad above that bluff to which the names of Maiden's -Rock, Maiden's Head, and Lover's Leap more particularly belong. This -is directly opposite Sandy point, and only about 2 m. by rail above -the village of Stockholm; being that one of the series of quite -similar bluffs which has a remarkable vertical escarpment, at a point -where there is little room to spare for the track between the talus at -its foot and the lake shore. A good view is obtained as the cars -recede from it. Rush cr. is mapped both by Pike and by Nicollet, -without name; it seems to be that called Porcupine-Quill cr. by -Schoolcraft, and is perhaps Marchessau r. of Featherstonhaugh. A -similar stream, also mapped by Pike and by Nicollet, without name, and -now known as Pine or Mill Pine cr., falls in 1½ m. below Rush cr. -Three other small streams, known as Bogus cr., Lost cr., and Roaring -r., fall in below Stockholm on the Wisconsin side; on which side, near -the head of the lake, at the place called Bay City, is Isabel cr. (the -Clear Water cr. of Nicollet, and perhaps the Rocher Rouge r. of -Featherstonhaugh). On the Minnesota side a creek falls in below and -another above Lake City; Wells cr. (the Sandy Point cr. of Pike, and -the Sand Point r. of Nicollet), falls in at the point indicated by -these names, a mile or more below Frontenac; while at Wacouta we find -a stream mapped by Nicollet without name, formerly called Bullard's -and now known as Ida cr. The most prominent part of the Minnesota -shore, where the channel sweeps around the convexity of the bold -headland, is fittingly called Point No Point--as the up-bound -passenger discovers when the boat rounds it. This is immediately above -Frontenac, opp. Maiden Rock City, and about the junction of the middle -with the upper reach of the lake. This body of water is between two -States and four counties. The line between Pepin and Pierce cos., -Wis., strikes it at or near Maiden Rock City; that between Wabasha and -Goodhue, Minn., comes to the lake below Frontenac, about Lake City. - -Lake Pepin is commonly said to have been "discovered by Hennepin" in -1680. This statement is exactly one-third right and two-thirds wrong, -and does a double injustice, because it ignores two of the three white -men who were simultaneously on the spot. These were: 1. Michael -Accault, the bourgeois or leader of the party, who afterward -flourished under the style of Le Sieur d'Accault, d'Acau, d'Ako, -Dacan, etc. 2. His man Antoine Auguelle, commonly called Le Picard, or -Picard du Gay. 3. His ecclesiastical functionary Louis Hennepin, a -monk of the Franciscan order, whom La Salle got rid of by sending him -along with Accault and Auguelle, when this Chaas trading-party started -from Fort Crèvecoeur on the Illinois r., Feb. 29th, 1680; they -reached the Miss. r. at the mouth of the Illinois, Mar. 7th, 1680, and -came to Lake Pepin in June of that year. It is a pity that the -reverend father's vanity, servility, and envy prevented him from -sticking to his ghostly trade; but he was ambitious of authorship, -like many another religious worldling, and jealous of La Salle. So he -set about a book for the glory of a trinity composed of Louis -Hennepin, Louis XIV., and God. It has made much trouble for -geographers and historians, who would willingly have waited for all -the information that it contains till this should have been imparted -by some less bigoted, less bombastic, and more veracious chronicler -than this Recollect priest, who recollected a good many things that -never happened, and forgot some of those that did occur. Hennepin is -the able philologist who discovered that the Indians called their -solar deity by the name of the then King of France, and who followed -up this discovery by naming the whole country Louisiana. He is the -same unscrupulous courtier who represents the king's arms to have been -cut in the bark of an oak west of Lac des Assenipoils, ca. lat. 60° -N.: see his map, place marked "Armes du Roy telle quel^le sont -grauée sur l'escorce d'vn Chesne a lendroit marqué--A". The tree may -be there yet, but the monk never was. Lahontan's fables are -entertaining, like La Fontaine's; Hennepin's are a bore. When this -little Louis is not wheedling the great Louis, he is apt to be -whining; he was troubled with gumboils, from dental caries, and did -not always remember the excellent injunction he received from Father -Gabriel--_viriliter age et comfortetur cor tuum_; which an Englishman -might freely render, "Be a man and keep your courage up." This -missionary lachrymosely named the lake, to which Accault, Auguelle, -and himself were taken by the Indians, Lac des Pleurs, a phrase which -appears in Engl. transls. of his book as Lake of Tears, "which we so -named," as Shea's text reads, p. 198, "because the Indians who had -taken us, wishing to kill us, some of them wept the whole night, to -induce the others to consent to our death"--_hinc illæ lacrymæ_. -Hennepin, by the way, says further, _ibid._: "Half a league below the -Lake of Tears, on the south side, is Buffalo river." This would make -R. aux Boeufs = Chippewa r.: see note 59, p. 58, for some -bearings on the case. The obscurity of the origin of the name Lake -Pepin has not been cleared up, so far as I know. Lesueur came here -Sept. 14th, 1700, and "Pepin" is found in La Harpe's MS. relation of -Lesueur's journey of July 12th-Dec. 13th, 1700. It is unlikely that -this name, by whomever given, was bestowed with direct reference to -any person of the Carlovingian dynasty; they were all dead and gone -ages before the lake was discovered, when nobody but historical -researchers took any interest in those defunct monarchs. St. Croix's -and St. Pierre's rivers were certainly named for contemporaneous -individuals, and so probably was Lake Pepin. There were a number of -Frenchmen by the name of Pepin, Papin, etc., in the country in later -years, and some one or more of them may have come before 1700. Carver -first came here Nov. 1st, 1766; he notes the remains of an old F. -factory, "where it is said Capt. St. Pierre resided." Old Ft. St. -Antoine may have been on the lake rather than at the mouth of R. des -Boeufs ou de Bon Secours; and the lake was once called Lac de Bon -Secours, or Bonsecours, a phrase which has been translated Lake Good -Help and Lake Relief. Fort Beauharnois was built on the lake, after -Sept. 17th, 1727, when La Perriere du Boucher landed on Pointe au -Sable or elsewhere; the exact site is unknown. This was an extensive -and substantial structure, and was named in honor of the then Governor -of Canada; it included a mission-house which the ecclesiastical -functionaries of Boucher's outfit called St. Michael, after an -archangel of that denomination. This was the fourth French -establishment; the other three having been Fort L'Huillier, 1700, -built by Lesueur, on the Blue Earth r., a branch of St. Pierre's; the -fort on Isle Pelée, below Hastings, by Lesueur also, in 1695; and the -fort below the foot of Lake Pepin, at or near present Wabasha, built -by Perrot, 1683. - -[I-63] To a position 1½ m. below present Frontenac, Goodhue Co., Minn., -about the mouth of Sand Point r. of Nicollet, now called Wells cr.; -this is below present Point No Point, and Frontenac is between. The -county was named by the Legislative Assembly of Minnesota, in 1853, -for James M. Goodhue, b. Hebron, N. H., Mar. 31st, 1810, came to St. -Paul, Minn., Apr. 18th, 1849, founded the Pioneer newspaper, d. 8.30 -p. m., Friday, Aug. 27th, 1852: see his obit. by E. D. Neill, Minn. -Hist. Soc. Coll., I (orig. ed. 1850-56), 2d ed. 1872, pp. 245-53. - -[I-64] Pike calls him Murdock Cameron on Apr. 12th: see that date; text -of 1807 has Mordock Cameron, p. 59 and p. 64: see also L. and C., ed. -1893, pp. 239, 1222. This is the same Cameron of whom Featherstonhaugh, -Canoe Voyage, etc., I. 1847, p. 314, speaks at length, and whose death -in 1811 is given as follows: "Passed a place on the right bank [of St. -Pierre's r., above the Waraju] where Milor [F.'s voyageur] buried his -bourgeois, a Mr. Cameron, in 1811. He was an enterprising, sagacious -Scotchman who had amassed a good deal of property by trafficking with -the Indians;... and whilst upon one of his expeditions he was taken -ill in his canoe, was landed, and died in the woods." Fgh. does not -hint at foul play here; for the suspicions in the case, see Long, as -cited in my L. and C. Cameron was buried on a bluff near Lac qui -Parle, the lake where his trading-post was, and "Cameron's grave" has -continued to be an identified spot from that day to this. Cameron's -name appears as that of one of the four witnesses to Pike's Sioux -treaty of Sept. 23d on one of the manuscript copies of that document -before me. The "Milor" mentioned here was a Canadian French half-breed -who became very well known as a resident of Mendota, Minn., where he -died about 1860, "after a long life full of adventure and daring -exploits," as J. F. Williams says, Minn. Hist. Coll., I. 2d. ed. 1872, -p. 375. - -[I-65] Those of a sentimental turn who may like to have the -full-rounded legend of the maiden Winona will find the romance related -in a scholarly yet sympathetic vein by Prof. Keating, in Long of 1823, -pub. 1824, I. pp. 280-85. Beltrami, II. p. 183, calls the girl -Oholoaïtha, her lover Anikigi, comparing the pair to the muse of -Mitylene and Phaon. Whether the tragic event is fact or fancy is -another question I see no use of raising. There is no inherent -improbability in the case; any girl could have thrown herself over the -rock with more ease than she had climbed it for that purpose, and -suicide is not less frequent among squaws than various other peoples -of both sexes. In the case of Indian women the most usual causes are -said to be grief, anger, and revenge, though in some cases the -suicidal resolve is more deliberate, and rather a matter of social -etiquette or of a religious code than of emotional insanity. I -understand that hanging is the customary method of taking one's self -off; and that the smallest tree which will answer the purpose is -preferred, because it is an article of belief that the ghost thus -discarnated must drag the instrument of death about for a period, and -a woman naturally prefers to lighten the load as much as possible. -Supposing Winona to have taken the fatal leap, it is reasonable to -infer from the faith in such affairs that she is there yet, chained to -the rock like another Andromeda; for the bluff is too big for her to -budge an inch, even with the assistance of a possible Perseus. There -is unimpeachable precedent for her performance in the classics, not -entirely dissociated from the name and fame of the gifted poetical -archetæra Sappho; and rocks reputed to be the scenes of lovers' leaps -abound in history and geography. - -[I-66] That much-named river, whereto hangs a tale of great length. -Pike here has the right name of it, though it is now usually called -Cannon r., by perversion of the French Rivière aux Canots: Cano, -Canot, Canon, Canow r. of various writers; Riviere au Canon, Canoe r., -Cannon r., Pike, _passim_; Canon r., Long's map; Eamozindata or High -Rock r., Long's text, 1824, I. p. 263; Inyan Bosndata r., Natural -Obelisk r., Standing Rock r., Lahontan r., Cannon r., Nicollet, text -and map. It is commonly supposed that the stream marked R. aux Raisins -on Franquelin's map of 1688 is this river, and I see no objection to -this identification; for though the name is suspiciously like a -mistake for R. aux Racines, the river is laid down as above the -Chippewa, and can hardly have been intended for Root r. The main -question is whether R. Morte and R. Longue (Long r.), Lahontan, -1686-87, are names to be added to the synonyms of this stream. The -Baron Lahontan, "Lord Lieutenant of the French colony at Placentia in -Newfoundland," gives an account of himself on the Miss. r. in Letter -XVI. of his book, pp. 104-141 of the English ed., Lond., 1735. This -letter is "Dated at Missilimakinac, May 28th, 1689, containing an -Account of the Author's Departure from, and Return to Missilimackinac. -A Description of the Bay of Puante, and its Villages. An Ample -Description of the Beavers; followed by the journal of a remarkable -Voyage upon the Long River, and a Map of the adjacent Country." -According to this relation Lahontan came by the Fox-Wisconsin route to -Prairie du Chien Oct. 23d, 1686, thus hard upon the heels of Accault's -party, who had Hennepin along: "On the 3d [of Nov.] we entered the -Mouth of the Long River, which looks like a lake full of Bull-rushes; -we found in the middle of it a narrow Channel," etc. He continued his -journey, on paper if not on the river, and returned to the Mississippi -Mar. 2d, 1687; dropped down to the Missouri Mar. 17th; went up the -Missouri to the Osage r.; down the Missouri to the Mississippi again -Mar. 25th; down the Mississippi to the Wabash, and back up to the -Illinois Apr. 7th; up the Illinois to Fort Crêvecoeur Apr. 16th; -arrived at "Chekakou" Apr. 24th; and made Michilimackinac soon -afterward. The whole _crux_ of Lahontan's relation is in his Long r., -which he professes to have ascended a great distance to the countries -of the Eororos, Esanapes, and Gnacsitares, where he also got wind of -equally peculiar people called Mozeemlek and Tahuglauk. The main -feature of his map is the "Morte or River Longue," represented as -larger than that portion of the Mississippi which he traces, and as -heading in a great lake which connects across high mountains by -numerous large streams with another great river which runs off his map -due W. _De te fabula narratur._ But there is nothing to forbid us to -suppose that Lahontan went up to or toward, or even ascended, some -such stream as Cannon r., and then simply tacked this on to St. -Peter's r. by hearsay. We must in justice observe that all he -professes to know about Long r. above the point he says he ascended it -he acknowledges he got from the natives; and he is careful to separate -his map into two parts by a heavy line lettered "The Division of the -Two Maps," _i. e._, his own and one "drawn upon Stag-skins by y^e -Gnacsitares." Such a piece of patch-work would easily make his Long r. -out of Cannon or some similar stream, run on to the whole course of -St. Peter's above the Mankato or Blue Earth r. Fortunately we have -little to do with the Baron's crazy-quilt, but I must here quote -Nicollet, because he sees reason to believe that Lahontan really did -ascend Cannon r., and has signalized his conclusion by naming it -Lahontan r. on his map. Though the gentle Nicollet's quality of mercy -was never strained, yet his judgments, even his special pleadings, -deserve always the most respectful consideration. Nicollet says, in -substance, Rep. pp. 20, 21, that he was forced to this conclusion -after surveying the Undine region; that the principal statements of -the Baron "coincided remarkably well with what I have laid down as -belonging to Cannon river.... His account, too, of the mouth of the -river is particularly accurate"; the objection that the Baron says -that he navigated Long r. in November and December, when it is usually -frozen, is in part overcome by the fact that it is one of the last to -freeze, and the last resort of the wild fowl; and while he must -convict the Baron of "gross exaggeration of the length of the river," -of its numerous population, and other pretended information, he would -conclude "that if La Hontan's claims to discoveries are mere fables, -he has had the good fortune or the sagacity to come near the truth." -As this musty old straw has never been threshed over to find any more -grains of wheat in it than Nicollet believed he had garnered, no one -else is likely in the future to make more of it than this; and our -alternative seems to be to accept Nicollet's results, or _noll. pros._ -the whole case. I incline to the former, partly from my habitual -inclination to account for as many historical names as possible, -partly because I have so much confidence in Nicollet. It does not seem -to have occurred to him that his view of the case would be -strengthened by the original though probably not new suggestion I have -made, to the effect that fables of the St. Peter, tacked on to some -facts of Cannon r., would explain Lahontan's Long r. - -[I-67] The present town of Redwing or Red Wing, Goodhue Co., Minn., -commemorates this chieftain, and preserves the site of his village -with entire exactitude. Pike's tabular statement, bound in this work, -calls him Talangamane, L'Aile Rouge, and Red Wing; his tribe, Minowa -Kantong, Gens du Lac, and People of the Lakes. Beltrami, II. p. 186, -makes one Tantangamani "the unnatural father of the unhappy -Oholoaïtha." "Major Long arrived on the evening of the 30th [of June, -1823] at an Indian village, which is under the direction of Shakea, -(the man that paints himself red;) the village has retained the -appellation of Redwing, (aile rouge,) by which this chief was formerly -distinguished," Keating's Long, I. p. 251, where the name which Pike -renders "Talangamane" is given as that of Red Wing's son, Tatunkamene, -and translated Walking Buffalo. "The Redwing chief is, at present -[1823], very much superannuated, but he is still much respected on -account of his former distinguished achievements," _ibid._, p. 260. -More about him to come in Pike, beyond. - -[I-68] Frontenac to Red Wing, some 13 miles by present channel, whence -it is a couple of miles further to the head of the island opp. Cannon -r. camp. Pike coasts the Minnesota shore till he finishes with the -lake at the mouth of Bullard's or Ida cr., a streamlet that makes in -at a town called after the chief Wakouta, Wacouta, Wakuta, etc. Here -he enters one of the channels by which the Mississippi finds its way -into the lake, no doubt the middle one, then as now the main one, -which, however, soon joins the south one; the north channel is -narrower, crookeder, shoaler, and connected with some expansions known -as Upper and Lower lakes and Goose bay. The town of Red Wing is -situated on the S. side of a sharp bend the river makes in coming from -the Cannon, on a plain under bluffs that nearly encompass the town; -one of these is specially notable as the isolated elevation forming a -conspicuous landmark on the very brink of the river. This is Barn -bluff, or Barn mountain, so named by tr. of F. La Grange; it is ¾ of a -mile long and 345 feet above low water mark; "upon the highest point -of the Grange. Major Long, who ascended it in 1817, observed an -artificial mound, whose elevation above its base was about five feet," -Keating, I. p. 296. Nicollet made the altitude 322 feet, with -commendable caution; Owen gave 350 feet, almost correctly. This word -_Grange_ is often found as Gange: thus Beltrami has in text, p. 189, -mountain of the Gange, and Gange r.; latter also on map, and I suppose -Ganges r. could be found, even at this distance from India. About the -mouth of Cannon r., opp. Pike's camp, there was a place called -Remnichah; both Nicollet and Owen chart Remnicha r. or cr. as a stream -falling in close to the mouth. While Remnicha or Hhemnicha was a name -of Red Wing's village, it also covered the whole tract from Barn bluff -to Cannon r. Mr. A. J. Hill informs me of "a small ravine or coulée -which ran through Red Wing's village, and in 1854, when I lived there, -was called the Jordan. It only headed a few blocks back, and is now -doubtless a sewer or filled up." So Nicollet's Remnicha r. is that now -known as Hay cr., above which a certain Spring cr. makes in on the -same side. Present town of Trenton, Pierce Co., Wis., is about a mile -above camp. - -[I-69] Discovery of the St. Croix r. is commonly attributed to -Accault's party, already mentioned as consisting of himself, Auguelle, -and Hennepin, prisoners in the hands of the Sioux at the time. The -date is 1680; day in question. According to La Salle's letter of Aug. -22d, 1682, written at Fort Frontenac, in Margry's Relations, II. p. -245 _seq._, it was very shortly after the 22d of April, 1680, when the -Indians who were carrying them off had come up the Mississippi to 8 -leagues below the falls of St. Anthony, and then determined to finish -their journey by land to their village at Mille Lacs. As the St. Croix -is more than 24 m. below Minneapolis, this party must have passed its -mouth about the date said. The Memoir of Le Sieur Daniel Greysolon Du -Luth to the Marquis of Seignelay, 1685 (Archives of the Ministry of -the Marine), states that in June, 1680, he entered a river 8 leagues -from the end of Lake Superior, ascended it, made a half league -portage, and fell into "a very fine river," which took him to the -Mississippi r. This was the St. Croix, which Du Luth thus certainly -descended to its mouth at that time. He heard of the captivity of his -countrymen with indignation and surprise, hired a Sioux to show him -where they were, and rescued them; he says that he put them in his -canoes and carried them to Michelimakinak, whence, after wintering -there, they set out for the settlements Mar. 29th, 1681. It is quite -possible that before the great triangular duel which La Salle, Du -Luth, and Hennepin managed to arrange among themselves over the -operations of 1680, the St. Croix was seen by the missionary Menard, -who in 1661 may have reached the Mississippi by way of the St. Croix -or some other way, and was soon after lost. Marquette is not in -question here, as he came by the Wisconsin to the Mississippi and went -down the latter. So with any other person who reached the Mississippi -prior to 1680. Excepting the Menard matter, which is uncertain, the -case narrows to Accault's party and Du Luth, within some weeks of each -other, late spring and early summer of 1680; the facts appear to be -that the former first passed the mouth of the St. Croix, and the -latter first descended this river. Hennepin first named the river R. -de Tombeau, Descr. Louis., 1683, map; this is translated Tomb r., as, -_e. g._, Shea's Hennepin, 1880, p. 199, where we read: "Forty leagues -above [Chippewa r.] is a river full of rapids, by which, striking -northwest [read N. E.], you can proceed to Lake Condé [L. Superior], as -far as Nimissakouat [in Margry Nemitsakouat, in the Nouv. Déc. -Nissipikouet, being the Bois Brûlé] river, which empties into that -lake. This first river is called Tomb river because the Issati [Sioux] -left there the body of one of their warriors, killed by a rattlesnake, -on whom, according to their custom, I put a blanket." Some translate -Grave r. On Franquelin's map, 1688, the St. Croix is lettered R. de la -Magdelaine, though a certain Fort St. Croix appears about its head; by -whom it was first called Magdalene r. I am not informed. Lahontan's -map shows nothing here; he was too full of his fabulous Long r. to -concern himself much with real rivers. Next come Lesueur and his -people, 1695; he had first reached the Mississippi in 1683, and on -this his second appearance (his third being in 1700) they built the -trading-house called Fort Lesueur on Pelée isl., just below the mouth -of the St. Croix, as already noted. His editor, so far as this trip is -concerned, is the clever carpenter Penicaut, a sensible, -fair-and-square man. Just here comes in the question of the first -application of the _name_ St. Croix. The river was already so called -and the name in use before 1700; thus, Nicolas Perrot's prise de -possession, a document dated at Fort St. Antoine, May 8, 1689, -mentions the Rivière-Sainte-Croix. The Carte du Canada ou de la -Nouvelle France, par Guillame de L'Isle, Paris, 1703, traces the river -and letters it "L. & R. Ste. Croix," _i. e._, as some have translated -it, Lake and River Holy Cross; said lake being, of course, the -dilation of the same bottle-nosed river, which issues from a -contracted orifice, but is a mile or two wide higher up. But whatever -the theological proclivity to suppose this name to have been given for -the usual instrument of the execution of Roman malefactors, later put -by the Emperor Constantine on his banner, and afterward used for other -purposes, it is certain that the Christian crucifix is not directly -implied in the name. It is a personal designation, connoting one -Sainte Croix or Saint Croix, a trader named in La Harpe's MSS. of -Lesueur's third voyage as a Frenchman who had been wrecked there; for -we read: "September 16 he [Lesueur] passed on the east a large river -called Sainte-Croix, because a Frenchman of that name was shipwrecked -at its mouth." Hennepin names Sainte Croix as one of six men who -deserted La Salle. A letter written in June, 1684, by Du Luth to -Governor De la Barre (who succeeded Frontenac in 1682), states that -the writer had met one Sieur de la Croix and his two companions. This -case resembles those of La Crosse r. already noted, and St. Pierre r., -noted beyond. It may be summed in the statement that St. Croix r., St. -Pierre r., and Lake Pepin, were all three so named for persons, by -Lesueur or his companions, not earlier than 1683 and not later than -1695; best assignable date, 1689. The river has also been called -Hohang or Fish r. (_cf._ Sioux Hogan-wanke-kin). The character of St. -Croix's r. as a waterway to the Great Lakes is elsewhere discussed. -This stream now forms the boundary between Wisconsin and Minnesota -from its mouth to beyond 46° N., where it splits up into small streams -in Burnett Co., Wis. Its general course is not far from S.--it is due -S. for many miles before it falls into the Mississippi; which latter, -for a great distance above their confluence, has a general bearing S. -E. Immediately at the mouth of the St. Croix, on the E., is Prescott, -Pierce Co., Wis., the site of which was once recommended by Long for a -military post; on the W. is Point Douglas, Washington Co., Minn.; and -across the Mississippi, a very little higher up, is Hastings, seat of -Dakota Co., Minn., at the mouth of Vermilion r. The above-mentioned -dilation of the river into Lake St. Croix extends some 30 m. up from -its mouth; and as far above this lake as an Indian ordinarily paddled -his canoe in a day was the long-noted Sioux-Chippewa boundary, at a -place which became known as Standing Cedars. Thus the river did duty -in Indian politics before it set bounds to our Minnesota and -Wisconsin. This lake was often called Lower St. Croix l., in -distinction from the sizable body of water at the head of the river -known as Upper St. Croix l. For the route thence by Burnt r. to Lake -Superior, see a note beyond. - -[I-70] Especially as it leaves us in the lurch for mileage of the 19th. -But we can easily overhaul him before he gets to St. Paul, which is -only 30 river-miles from Prescott (mouth of St. Croix r.). He did not -go far above this river; for he makes it 26½ + 8 = 34½ m. to the Sioux -village, which latter was close to the present city limits of St. -Paul. If we must set a camp for him, it may be assigned to Hastings, -Dakota Co., Minn., 2½ m. above Prescott, Pierce Co., Wis., and 18½ m. -below Newport, Washington Co., Minn., in the vicinity of which he will -camp to-morrow. "Tattoo," at which the blunderbuss was fired, is not a -place, as the context and capitalization might suggest, but a certain -military call which is habitually sounded in garrisons and camps in -the evening before taps. It marks the hour when the soldiers are -supposed to retire to their quarters for their devotions before the -lights are put out at taps, and when the officers settle down in -earnest for the night's poker. In approaching the St. Croix from his -camp opposite Cannon r., Pike has bluffs off his right nearly all the -way, and the town of Diamond Bluff, Pierce Co., Wis., is at the point -where they first reach to the river, a mile and a half above the mouth -of Trimbelle r., right, and 11 m. below Prescott. On the left the -bluffs are off the river all the way, and for most of this distance -Vermilion slough, running under the bluffs, cuts off an island 11 m. -long and at its widest near 3 m. broad. The lower outlet of the slough -is below Trimbelle r.; the middle opening is only 3 m. below Prescott; -the upper one is at Hastings. The bottom-land of the principal island -has several bodies of water, one of them called Sturgeon l., -discharging separately from the main slough; and is traversed -lengthwise by a sand-bank 6 m. long, which may be called Lesueur's -Terrace. For this Prairie or Bald isl. is no doubt that formerly known -as Isle Pelée, on which was built Fort Lesueur, 1695. The middle -opening of Vermilion slough is in common with a lower outlet of -Vermilion r. This is Rapid r. of Long, and Rivière Jaune of the -French; "R. Jaune" appears on Franquelin's map, 1688. The upper -discharge of this river is at Hastings, and thus above the mouth of -the St. Croix; Lake Isabel is a small sheet between the river and the -town. The Minnesota county line between Goodhue and Dakota strikes the -Mississippi just 1¼ m. below the lower mouth of Vermilion r. At the -mouth of the St. Croix the Mississippi ceases or rather begins to -separate Wisconsin from Minnesota; so that henceforth Pike proceeds in -the latter State. - -[I-71] Hastings to Newport, 18½ m. by the channel; camp a mile and a -half beyond this, vicinity of present Red Rock, Washington Co., at the -point on the small strip of prairie where the Sioux had their -celebrated red medicine-stone; this was the "large painted stone" Pike -observed. It gave name to Red Rock, having meanwhile become a -historical object. We read in Long, I. p. 287: "a stone which is held -in high veneration by the Indians on account of the red pigment with -which it is bedawbed, it is generally called the painted stone.... It -is a fragment of syenite, which is about four and a half feet in -diameter.... The Indians frequently offer presents to the Great Spirit -near this stone," etc. The party found near the stone an eagle's -feather, roots of _Psoralea esculenta_, and willow sticks painted red; -they secured a fragment of the idol for their mineralogical -collection. At the time of this visit (1823) there was an Indian -burying-ground a short distance above--in sight from the spot--if that -place can be called a burying-ground where the bodies are not buried -in the ground but scaffolded in the air; a mode of disposition of the -dead which might be called hypsitaphy, in distinction from bathytaphy -or ordinary underground interment. See Pike's remarks on Sioux burial -on the 21st. To reach the sacred spot, hallowed by association with -the deepest religious emotions of the untutored aboriginal mind, Pike -left Hastings, where the river was bridged by the C., M. and St. P. R. -R. in 1871 (Act of Minn. Legisl., Feb. 7th, 1867), and soon passed the -site of Nininger, Dakota Co., a small town built at the lower point of -a steep bluff which fronts the river's edge on the S., at the mouth of -the rivulet which serves as the upper discharge of Lake Rebecca or -King l.--in fact the whole bottom on his left is an island 2¾ m. long, -extending from Hastings to Nininger, being cut off by the slough of -which King l. is a dilation. On the right, in Washington Co., bluffs -front the river for a mile or more, to the lower opening of Boulanger -slough, which cuts off an island 2½ m. long. The immediate frontage of -the Nininger bluffs on the river is less than a mile, for they recede -at the lower opening of Nininger slough. The river thus winds from -side to side of its bed, with alternation of bluffs and bottom on each -side. Above Nininger slough the river makes a great loop to the left; -the whole irregular curve is subtended on the right by Grey Cloud -slough, about 4 m. long direct, and longer by its meanders, thus -cutting off Grey Cloud isl., of the same length, and over 2 m. wide in -some places; town site Grey Cloud, Washington Co., on the river bank -on this island, which also presents at its northern end a limestone -rock, 50 to 75 feet above low-water mark, and a mile or more long; -this is probably the Medicine Wood of Forsyth, 1819. Near the middle -of the loop, on the other side, is the _nominis umbra_ site of Pine -Bend, Dakota Co., where the river runs under the hills. This loop was -formerly called Détour de Pin or des Pins, whence its modern names -Pine bend and Pine turn. The hills border the river pretty closely for -5 m. further, to Merrimac, opposite which is an island of the same -name; within 1½ m. of this on the right hand, opposite an island of -its own name, is Newport, Washington Co. - -[I-72] Newport to St. Paul--to a steamboat ldg. about the foot of -Wabasha or Robert st.--is 8½ m. by the channel, and considerably more -than halfway up to Pike's camp on the island at the mouth of St. -Peter's or the Minnesota r. Thus, though Pike calls to-day's voyage -"24 miles," it is nearer 14. One who then swept around the bold bend -of the river at St. Paul saw a germ of that great metropolis in the -humble Sioux village, though only prescience could have divined what -time would make of the site above it. A later account than Pike's is -given in Keating's Long's Exp. of 1823, pub. 1824, I. p. 289: "Passed -an Indian village consisting of ten or twelve huts, situated at a -handsome turn on the river, about 10 miles below the mouth of the St. -Peter; the village is generally known by the name of the Petit -Corbeau, or Little Raven, which was the appellation of the father and -grandfather of the present chief. He is called Chetanwakoamene (the -good sparrow-hunter). The Indians designate this band by the name of -Kapoja, which implies that they are deemed lighter and more active -than the rest of the nation." This was a band of Mdewakantonwan Sioux -(the Minowa Kantong of Pike), for which, as well as for the celebrated -chief himself, see notes beyond. The term which Keating renders Kapoja -is now Kaposia, as a designation of the locality of South Park, a -place on the west bank of the river; but the old Sioux village was on -the east bank, below Frenchman's bar, in the low ground formerly -called by the French Grand Marais, rendered by Beltrami Great March -(for Great Marsh, II. p. 197), and now rejoicing in the epithet of -Pig's Eye marsh or lake. Pig's Eye was the soubriquet of one Peter -Parrant, a whisky-seller who squatted on the bottom in 1838, below -Carver's Cave in the Dayton bluff. The whole region about the mouth of -St. Peter's r. had been a Sioux focus and stamping-ground for -generations before any of the localities thereabouts received names -from us. The curious origin of the name St. Paul for the present -capital was in this wise: The limits of the military reservation about -Fort Snelling were authoritatively fixed in 1839. The whisky-traders, -loafers, and squatters about the place became so troublesome that the -U. S. Marshal of Wisconsin was directed to remove all such intruders, -who were given till next spring to decamp; and on May 6th, 1840, the -troops were called out to complete the eviction by the destruction of -cabins. In the words of E. D. Neill, Minn. Hist. Soc., II. Part 2, -1864, 2d ed. 1881, p. 142: "The squatters then retreated to the -nearest point below the military reserve, and there they became the -inglorious founders of a hamlet, which was shortly graced with the -small Roman Catholic chapel of St. Paul, the name of which is retained -by the thrifty capital of Minnesota, which has emerged from the -groggeries of 'certain lewd fellows of the baser sort.'" The chapel -above mentioned was built by Rev. Lucian Galtier, on what is now -Catholic block; it fronted on Bench street. It was dedicated Nov. 1st, -1841. The first marriage bans were those of one Vital Guerin, -described as "a resident of St. Paul;" and thus the priest named the -place as well as the house, although it was also called for a time St. -Paul Landing, because some stores had been put up close by, which -caused steamboats to stop there. In 1848, when Minnesota acquired -Territorial organization, and the capital was fixed at St. Paul, no -such place could be found on ordinary maps; it was some obscure -settlement, supposed to be somewhere about the mouth of St. Peter's -r., or in the vicinity of St. Anthony's falls, perhaps at a place -known as White Rock, or Iminijaska, where some bluffs were more easily -discernible than any village. Even down to 40 years ago, or a little -before 1858, when Minnesota acquired statehood, St. Paul had only -replaced tepees with a sprinkling of log cabins; and people scrambled -up the bluff by digging their toes into the ground. The site of the -city is one which would hardly have been anticipated as such; nor -would the original features of the locality be easily recognized now -after all the grading and terracing that has been done to convert the -stubborn hills and intractable hollows into a beautiful city of over -190,000 inhabitants. But all this was to be, and is well worth all -that it cost. Among the natural features which should be noted in this -connection, especially as they have given rise to conflicting -historical statements, are Carver's Great Cave in Dayton's bluff, and -Nicollet's New (Fountain) Cave, halfway thence to Fort Snelling; but -for these, as well as for a third cave close to Carver's, see a note -beyond, at date of Apr. 12th, 1806, when Pike's text brings the matter -up. - -[I-73] Jean Baptiste Faribault, b. Berthier, Lower Canada, 1774, d. -Faribault, Minn., Aug. 20th, 1860, being at the time the oldest white -resident of the present State. Jean Baptiste was the youngest one of -10 children of Bartholomew (who was b. in Paris and came to Canada in -1754); he was in business in Quebec 1790-97, at the latter date -entered the employ of J. J. Astor as an agent of the N. W. Co., and -was engaged in the Indian trade at various points in the Mississippi -region for about 50 years, for the most part on his own account. One -of the posts he established was at the mouth of the Minnesota r., -where Pike found him. In 1814 he married a half-breed daughter of -Major Hause (then Superintendent of Indian Affairs), by whom he had -eight children. His Indian name was Chahpahsintay, meaning Beaver -Tail. His eldest son, Alexander, founded the present town of -Faribault, Minn. Mr. J. B. Faribault "espoused the cause of the U. S. -during the war of 1812, and lost many thousand dollars thereby, as -well as narrowly escaping with his life on several occasions. He -labored all his life to benefit the red man, teach him agriculture and -the arts of industry, and protect his interests. He had an unbounded -influence over them; his advice was never disregarded. He was -prominent at all treaties, and rendered the U. S. many valuable -services," says J. F. Williams, Minn. Hist. Coll., I. 2d ed. 1872, p. -377: see also _ibid._, p. 468. An extended memoir of Faribault, by -General H. H. Sibley, occupies pp. 168-79 of III. of the Minn. Hist. -Coll., 1874. - -[I-74] The history of the discovery of St. Peter's r., off the mouth of -which Pike is now camped, is involved in some obscurity, which modern -research has not wholly cleared up, though the main facts have -probably been certified. (1) It has been conceded since Carver's time -that Hennepin missed the river. Discovery has not been traced back of -Lesueur's time. Lesueur was first on the Mississippi hereabouts in -1683; next in 1695, when he built on Pelée isl., just below the St. -Croix; and again in 1700; both these rivers are noted in the treatise -of Nicolas Perrot, and before 1700 the river of St. Pierre had been so -named. (2) Charlevoix's account, Hist. N. Fr., Paris, 1744, IV. pp. -165, 166, is in substance: In 1700 Lesueur, sent by D'Iberville to -establish himself in the Sioux country and take possession of a -copper-mine _que le Sueur y avait découverte_, had already discovered -there, some time before; ascended St. Peter 40 leagues to Rivière -Verte (now Blue Earth r.) which comes in on the left hand as you go -up; ascended this Green r. 1 league; built a fort and wintered there, -1700-1; in April, "1702," for which read 1701, went up Green r. ¾ -league to his mine and in 22 days got out over 30,000 lbs. of ore, of -which 4,000 selected lbs. were sent to France; there was a mountain of -this mineral 10 leagues long, etc. (3) The Amer. Philos. Society's -copy of the MS. of Bénard de la Harpe is carefully digested by Keating -in Long's Exp., I. pp. 317-322. This MS. is entitled: "Journal -historique concernant l'établissement des Français à la Louisianne, -tiré des mémoires de Messrs. d'Iberville et de Bienville, etc., par M. -Bénard de la Harpe." The original of this copy was in the hands of Dr. -Sibley, who certifies to the correctness of the copy in a note -annexed, dated Natchitoches, Oct. 29th, 1805. Some of the contents of -this MS. are: (_a_) Lesueur and d'Iberville, with 30 hands, reached -the mouth of the Mississippi Dec., 1699. Lesueur was sent there by M. -l'Huillier, fermier général, under orders to establish himself at a -place near the sources of the Mississippi, where he had _previously_ -discovered a green ore, _i. e._, in 1695. The substance of the 1695 -discovery is: Lesueur built a fort on an island (Isle Pelée, now -Prairie isl.) in the Mississippi over 200 m. above the Illinois, by -order of Count Frontenac; and the same year he went to Montreal with -the Chippewa chief Chingouabé and the Sioux chief Tioscaté, the latter -the first of his nation that ever was in Canada, and received very -kindly by the authorities in view of what they hoped to make out of -his country. With this Sioux chief Lesueur had intended to reascend -the Mississippi in 1696; but the former died at Montreal after 33 -days' illness. Lesueur, thus released from an obligation to go back -with the chief to the country where he had discovered the ore, -determined to go to France to ask leave to open mines; this voyage he -made, and had his permit in 1697. June, 1697, he embarked at La -Rochelle for Canada; was captured by the British on the Newfoundland -banks and carried to Portsmouth; after peace, returned to Paris for a -new commission, which was issued to him in 1698; went to Canada with -this; various obstacles threw him back to Europe; and meanwhile part -of the men whom he had left in charge in 1695 abandoned their posts -and proceeded to Montreal. Thus operations on the mines were suspended -from 1695 to 1700, for Lesueur and d'Iberville, with their 30 workmen, -as we have seen, only reached the mouth of the Mississippi in Dec., -1699. (_b_) The MS. we are following states, under date of Feb. 10th, -1702, that Lesueur was that day come to the mouth of the Mississippi -with 2000 quintaux of blue and green earth. This he certainly had got -on his tour of Dec., 1699-Feb., 1702, from and back to the mouth of -the Mississippi, and he had got it from the mine he opened and worked -on Rivière Verte or Blue Earth r., the principal branch of St. -Peter's. The MS. contains a narrative of this tour from July 12th to -Dec. 13th, 1700. It appears that Lesueur moved as follows: July 13th, -mouth of the Missouri; Sept. 1st, mouth of the Wisconsin; Sept. 14th, -mouth of the Chippewa (on one of whose branches he had found a 60-lb. -mass of copper during his previous journey); same day, Lake Pepin, so -designated in the MS.; 16th, passed La Croix r., so called from a -Frenchman wrecked there; 19th, entered St. Peter's r.; Oct. 1st had -ascended this for 44¼ leagues, and then entered Blue r., so called for -the color of the earth on its banks; started an establishment at or -more probably near the mouth of Blue r., at what the MS. gives as lat. -44° 13' N.; Oct. 14th, finished the works, which were named Fort -L'Huillier; Oct. 26th, went to the mine with three canoes, which he -loaded with colored earth taken from mountains near which were mines -of copper, samples of which L'Huillier had assayed at Paris in 1696. -Lesueur wintered there, 1700-1, and, as we have seen, was back to the -mouth of the Mississippi Feb. 10th, 1702. (_c_) From these historical -data Keating in Long, 1823, I. p. 320, infers that St. Peter's and the -Blue (Blue Earth) rivers were those streams which Lesueur had ascended -in 1695, which date is consequently assigned to the discovery, without -reference back to 1683. This inference is made "from the circumstance -that they are mentioned as well known, and not as recently discovered; -and more especially from the observation of la Harpe, that the eastern -Sioux having complained of the situation of the fort [L'Huillier], -which they would have wished to see at the confluence of the St. Peter -and Mississippi, M. le Sueur endeavoured to reconcile them to it. 'He -had foreseen,' says la Harpe, 'that an establishment on the Blue river -would not be agreeable to the eastern Sioux, who are the rulers of all -the other Sioux, because they were the first with whom the French -traded, and whom they provided with guns; nevertheless, as this -undertaking had not been commenced with the sole view of trading for -beavers, but in order to become thoroughly acquainted with the quality -of the various mines _which he had previously discovered there_ -[italics Keating's], he replied to the natives that he was sorry he -had not been made sooner acquainted with their wishes, &c., but that -the advanced state of the season prevented his returning to the mouth -of the river.' No mention is made in this narrative of the stream -being obstructed with ice, a circumstance which, had it really -occurred, would, we think, have been recorded by de la Harpe, who -appears to have been a careful and a curious observer, and who -undoubtedly saw le Sueur's original narrative." (4) On the foregoing -data Nicollet, Rep. 1843, p. 18, has some judicious remarks in fixing -Lesueur's locality with precision: "On the left bank of the Mankato -[Green, Blue, or Blue Earth r.], six miles from its mouth, in a rocky -bluff composed of sandstone and limestone, are found cavities in which -the famed blue or green earth, used by the Sioux as their principal -pigment, is obtained. This material is nearly exhausted, and it is not -likely that this is the spot where a Mr. Lesueur (who is mentioned in -the Narrative of Major Long's Second Expedition, as also by Mr. -Featherstonhaugh) could, in his third voyage, during the year 1700, -have collected his 4000 pounds of copper earth sent by him to France. -I have reason to believe that Lesueur's location is on the river to -which I have affixed his name, and which empties into the Mankato -three-quarters of a league above Fort L'Huillier, built by him and -where he spent a winter. This location corresponds precisely with that -given by Charlevoix, whilst it is totally inapplicable to the former. -Here the blue earth is abundant in the steep and elevated hills at the -mouth of this river, which hills form a broken country on the right -side of the Mankato. Mr. [J. C.] Fremont and myself have verified this -fact: he, during his visit to Lesueur river; and I, upon the locality -designated by Mr. Featherstonhaugh, where the Ndakotahs formerly -assembled in great numbers to collect it, but to which they now seldom -resort, as it is comparatively scarce--at least so I was informed by -Sleepy-eye, the chief of the Sissitons, who accompanied me during this -excursion." (5) Featherstonhaugh's remarks, Canoe Voyage, etc., I. p. -280 and p. 304, seem to me less judicious than likely to make the -judicious grieve; in fine, they are singularly obtuse to have come -from so British a man and so clever a story-teller. He heads a page in -caps, "THE COPPER-MINE, A FABLE;" he has in text, "finding the -copper-mine to be a fable"; again: "that either M. le Sueur's green -cupreous earth had not corresponded to the expectations he had raised, -or that the whole account of it was to be classed with Baron -Lahontan's" fables, etc. This sort of talk would befog the whole -subject, were it not obvious that it has no bearing whatever upon the -historico-geographical case we are discussing. The question is _where_ -Lesueur went, and _when_ he got there--not at all what he found there. -It is obtuse, I say, because unintentionally misleading, for F'gh to -say that, when he reached the bluff whence the pigment had been taken, -"Le Sueur's story lost all credit with me, for I instantly saw that it -was nothing but a continuation of the seam which divided the sandstone -from the limestone ... containing a silicate of iron of a -blueish-green color." In the first place, F'gh was not at exactly the -right spot, which Nicollet has pointed out. Secondly, though Lesueur -should have been mistaken or mendacious about any copper-mine being in -that region--though he should not have collected 30,000 lbs. of ore in -22 days, or even a gunny-sack full of anything in a year--though the -mountains should shrink to bluffs, and the whole commercial features -of the case turn into the physiognomy of the wild-cat--that would not -affect the historical and geographical facts, viz.: Lesueur ascended -the St. Peter's to the Mankato, and this as far at least as its first -branch, thus exploring both these rivers in 1700. Item, he had been to -if not also up the river of St. Pierre in 1695; and it had been known -since his first voyage in 1683. (6) As to the name Rivière St. Pierre, -or de St. Pierre, which we have translated St. Peter, or St. Peter's -r., the former obscurity of its origin has, I think, been almost -entirely cleared up. Keating's Long, 1824, I. p. 322, has: "We have -sought in vain for the origin of the name; we can find no notice of -it; it appears to us at present not unlikely that the name may have -been given by le Sueur in 1795 [slip for 1695], in honor of M. de St. -Pierre Repantigni, to whom La Hontan incidentally alludes (I. p. 136) -as being in Canada in 1789 [_i. e._, 1689]. This person may have -accompanied le Sueur on his expedition." Keating does not cite in this -connection the remark of Carver, ed. 1796, p. 35: "Here [at Lake -Pepin] I discovered the ruins of a French factory, where it is said -Captain St. Pierre resided, and carried on a very great trade with the -Naudowessies [Sioux], before the reduction of Canada." This person was -Jacques Le Gardeur St. Pierre, who in 1737 commanded the fort on Lake -Pepin (Fort Beauharnois). One Fort St. Pierre was built at Rainy l. -late in 1731; J. Le G. St. Pierre was there in 1751: for extended -notice of him, see Neill, Macalester Coll. Cont., No. 4, 1890, pp. -136-40. His father was Captain Paul St. Pierre, who was sent to the -French post (Maison Françoise) at La Pointe (Chaquamegon bay) in 1718. -Nicollet, Rep. 1843, p. 68, cites Carver, and states: "I have no -hesitation in assigning its [the name's] origin to a Canadian by the -name of De St. Pierre, who resided for a long time thereabouts." The -name appears for the first time in Perrot's report, of the date 1689, -which is also the most probable date of naming the St. Croix r. and -Lake Pepin. The only question left is, whether the river was not named -to compliment _Pierre_ Lesueur himself. Whoever the St. Pierre whose -name the river bears may prove to be, the name is a personal one, -which we should not have translated into English St. Peter; for it -certainly has nothing to do with the legendary saint so styled, whose -career is connected with the crowing of cocks three times more than -with the course of any river. Had the stream been named by some priest -for such a sadly overworked patron as the apocryphal first Bishop of -Rome, we should have heard all about it in the Jesuit Relations or -elsewhere. (7) The suggestion that the name St. Pierre is a perversion -of _sans pierres_ ("without stones"), may be dismissed as too good to -be true; for it is a settled principle of sound philology that the -easiest etymologies are the most likely to have been invented to fit -the case, _ex post-facto_. (8) As to native names, Nicollet says, -_l. c._: "The name which the Sioux give to the St. Peter's river is -_Mini-sotah_; and to St. Peter's, as a station [Mendota], -_Mdote-mini-sotah_. The adjective _sotah_ is of different translation. -The Canadians translate it by a pretty equivalent French word, -_brouillé_--perhaps most properly rendered into English by _blear_; -as, for instance, _mini sotah_, blear water, or the entrance of blear -water. I have entered into this explanation, because the word _sotah_ -really means neither clear nor turbid, as some authors have asserted; -its true meaning being readily found in the Sioux expression -_ishta-sotah_, blear-eyed.... The Chippeways are more accurate; by -them, the St. Peter's river [is called] _Ashkibogi-sibi_, the Green -Leaf river." It occurs to me that the distinction Nicollet draws would -correspond to _translucent_, as distinguished on the one hand from -colorless or transparent water, and on the other from opaque or turbid -water. I may also refer to the old medical term, _gutta serena_, for -forming cataract of the eye, when clear vision is obscured by a degree -of opacity that does not entirely exclude light. As applied to water, -Sioux _sotah_ may be about equivalent to Greek glaukos, Latin -_glaucus_, variously rendered "gray," "bluish-green," etc., and -Nicollet's "blear-eyed" be equivalent to what was called _glaucoma_ -(glaukoma). Notice what Pike says above of the color of the -water; but it must be added that, when he speaks of the Mississippi as -"remarkably red," we must understand only a reddish-yellow hue of its -shoal portions, imparted by its sands; and by "black as ink," only the -darker color of deeper places where the sands do not show through. The -name Mini-sota has a number of variants: for example, Carver, who -wintered on it Nov., 1766-Apr., 1767, has "the River St. Pierre, -called by the natives the Waddapawmenesotor"; with which compare -Watapan Menesota of Long, Watpàmenisothé of Beltrami, and the title of -Featherstonhaugh's diverting book, "A Canoe Voyage up the Minnay -Sotor," etc. It has become fixed of late years, since an Act of -Congress, approved June 19th, 1852 (Stat. at Large, X. p. 147), -decreed that the noble river should bear the name of the State through -which it flows. (9) The Minnesota r. appears on various old maps of -Louisiana (not on Hennepin's, 1683). Franquelin's, 1688, traces it -without any name, but letters it with the name of the Indians, "Les -Mascoutens Nadouescioux," _i. e._, Sioux of the Prairie, Gens du Large -of the French, collectively, as distinguished from Gens du Lac. De -L'Isle's map, 1703, has "R. St. Pierre." - - - - -CHAPTER II. - -ITINERARY, CONTINUED: ST. PAUL TO LEECH LAKE, SEPTEMBER 22D, -1805-JANUARY 31ST, 1806. - - -_Sunday, Sept. 22d._ Employed in the morning measuring the river. About -three o'clock Mr. Frazer and his peroques arrived; and in three hours -after Petit Corbeau, at the head of his band, arrived with 150 -warriors. - -They ascended the hill in the point between the Mississippi and St. -Peters, and gave us a salute, _a la mode savage_, with balls; after -which we settled affairs for the council next day. Mr. Frazer and -myself took a bark canoe, and went up to the village, in order to see -Mr. Cameron. We ascended the St. Peters to the village, and found his -camp. He engaged to be at the council the next day, and promised to -let me have his barge. The Sioux had marched on a war excursion; but, -hearing by express of my arrival, they returned by land. We were -treated very hospitably, and hallooed after to go into every lodge to -eat. Returned to our camp about eleven o'clock, and found the Sioux -and my men peaceably encamped. No current in the river.[II-1] - -_Sept. 23d._ Prepared for the council, which we commenced about twelve -o'clock. I had a bower or shade, made of my sails, on the beach, into -which only my gentlemen (the traders) and the chiefs entered. I then -addressed them in a speech, which, though long and touching on many -points, had for its principal object the granting of land at this -place, falls of St. Anthony, and St. Croix [river], and making peace -with the Chipeways. I was replied to by Le Fils de Pinchow, Le Petit -Corbeau, and l'Original Leve. They gave me the land required, about -100,000 acres, equal to $200,000, and promised me a safe passport for -myself and any [Chippewa] chiefs I might bring down; but spoke -doubtfully with respect to the peace. I gave them presents to the -amount of about $200, and as soon as the council was over, I allowed -the traders to present them with some liquor, which, with what I -myself gave, was equal to 60 gallons. In one half-hour they were all -embarked for their respective villages. - -The chiefs in the council were: Le Petit Corbeau, who signed the -grant; Le Fils de Pinchow, who also signed; Le Grand Partisan; Le -Original Leve, war-chief; gave him my father's [General Wilkinson's] -tomahawk, etc.; Le Demi Douzen, war-chief; Le Beccasse; Le Boeuf que -Marche. - -It was somewhat difficult to get them to sign the grant, as they -conceived their word of honor should be taken for the grant without -any mark; but I convinced then it was not on their account, but my -own, that I wished them to sign it.[II-2] - -_Sept. 24th._ In the morning I discovered that my flag was missing -from my boat. Being in doubt whether it had been stolen by the -Indians, or had fallen overboard and floated away, I sent for my -friend, Original Leve, and sufficiently evinced to him, by the -vehemence of my action, by the immediate punishment of my guard -(having inflicted on one of them corporeal punishment), and by sending -down the shore three miles in search of it, how much I was displeased -that such a thing should have occurred. I sent a flag and two carrots -of tobacco, by Mr. Cameron, to the Sioux at the head of the St. -Peters; made a small draft of the position at this place; sent up the -boat I got from Mr. Fisher to the village on the St. Peters, and -exchanged her for a barge with Mr. Duncan. My men returned with the -barge about sundown. She was a fine light thing; eight men were able -to carry her. Employed all day in writing. - -_Sept. 25th._ I was awakened out of my bed by Le Petit Corbeau, head -chief, who came up from his village to see if we were all killed, or -if any accident had happened to us. This was in consequence of their -having found my flag floating three miles below their village, 15 -miles hence, from which they concluded some affray had taken place, -and that it had been thrown overboard. Although I considered this an -unfortunate accident for me, I was exceedingly happy at its effect; -for it was the occasion of preventing much bloodshed among the -savages. A chief called Outard Blanche[II-3] had his lip cut off, and -had come to Petit Corbeau and told him, "that his face was his -looking-glass, that it was spoiled, and that he was determined on -revenge." The parties were charging their guns and preparing for -action, when lo! the flag appeared like a messenger of peace sent to -prevent their bloody purposes. They were all astonished to see it. The -staff was broken. Then Petit Corbeau arose and spoke to this effect: -"That a thing so sacred had not been taken from my boat without -violence; that it would be proper for them to hush all private -animosities, until they had revenged the cause of their eldest -brother; that he would immediately go up to St. Peters, to know what -dogs had done that thing, in order to take steps to get satisfaction -of those who had done the mischief." They all listened to this -reasoning; he immediately had the flag put out to dry, and embarked -for my camp. I was much concerned to hear of the blood likely to have -been shed, and gave him five yards of blue stroud, three yards of -calico, one handkerchief, one carrot of tobacco, and one knife, in -order to make peace among his people. He promised to send my flag by -land to the falls, and make peace with Outard Blanche. Mr. Frazer went -up to the village. We embarked late, and encamped at the foot of the -rapids. In many places, I could scarce [almost] throw a stone over the -river. Distance three miles.[II-4] - -_Sept. 26th._ Embarked at the usual hour, and after much labor in -passing through the rapids, arrived at the foot of the falls [of St. -Anthony, in the city of Minneapolis], about three or four o'clock; -unloaded my boat, and had the principal part of her cargo carried over -the portage. With the other boat, however, full loaded, they were not -able to get over the last shoot, and encamped about 600 yards below. I -pitched my tent and encamped above the shoot. The rapids mentioned in -this day's march might properly be called a continuation of the falls -of St. Anthony, for they are equally entitled to this appellation with -the falls of the Delaware and Susquehanna. Killed one deer. Distance -nine miles.[II-5] - -_Sept. 27th._ Brought over the residue of my lading this morning. Two -men arrived from Mr. Frazer, on St. Peters, for my dispatches. This -business of closing and sealing appeared like a last adieu to the -civilized world. Sent a large packet to the general, and a letter to -Mrs. Pike, with a short note to Mr. Frazer. Two young Indians brought -my flag across by land; they arrived yesterday, just as we came in -sight of the falls. I made them a present for their punctuality and -expedition, and the danger they were exposed to from the journey. -Carried our boats out of the river as far as the bottom of the hill. - -_Sept. 28th._ Brought my barge over, and put her in the river above -the falls. While we were engaged with her, three-quarters of a mile -from camp, seven Indians, painted black, appeared on the heights. We -had left our guns at camp, and were entirely defenseless. It occurred -to me that they were the small party of Sioux who were obstinate, and -would go to war when the other part of the bands came in. These they -proved to be. They were better armed than any I had ever seen, having -guns, bows, arrows, clubs, spears, and some of them even a case of -pistols. I was at that time giving my men a dram, and giving the cup -of liquor to the first, he drank it off; but I was more cautious with -the remainder. I sent my interpreter to camp with them to wait my -coming, wishing to purchase one of their war-clubs, which was made of -elk-horn, and decorated with inlaid work. This, and a set of bows and -arrows, I wished to get as a curiosity. But the liquor I had given him -beginning to operate, he came back for me; refusing to go till I -brought my boat, he returned, and (I suppose being offended) borrowed -a canoe and crossed the river. In the afternoon we got the other boat -near the top of the hill, when the props gave way, and she slid all -the way down to the bottom, but fortunately without injuring any -person. It raining very hard, we left her. Killed one goose and a -raccoon. - -_Sunday, Sept. 29th._ I killed a remarkably large raccoon. Got our -large boat over the portage, and put her in the river, at the upper -landing. This night the men gave sufficient proof of their fatigue, by -all throwing themselves down to sleep, preferring rest to supper. This -day I had but 15 men out of 22; the others were sick. - -This voyage could have been performed with great convenience if we had -taken our departure in June. But the proper time would be to leave the -Illinois as soon as the ice would permit, when the river would be of a -good height. - -_Sept. 30th._ Loaded my boat, moved over, and encamped on the island. -The large boats loading likewise, we went over and put on board. In -the meantime I took a survey of the Falls, Portage, etc. If it be -possible to pass the falls at high water, of which I am doubtful, it -must be on the east side, about 30 yards from shore, as there are -three layers of rocks, one below the other. The pitch off either is -not more than five feet; but of this I can say more on my return. (It -is never possible, as ascertained on my return.) - -_Oct. 1st._ Embarked late. The river at first appeared mild and -sufficiently deep; but after about four miles the shoals commenced, -and we had very hard water all day; passed three rapids. Killed one -goose and two ducks. This day the sun shone after I had left the -falls; but whilst there it was always cloudy. Distance 17 miles.[II-6] - -_Oct. 2d._ Embarked at our usual hour, and shortly after passed some -large islands and remarkably hard ripples. Indeed the navigation, to -persons not determined to proceed, would have been deemed -impracticable. We waded nearly all day, to force the boats off shoals, -and draw them through rapids. Killed three geese and two swans. Much -appearance of elk and deer. Distance 12 miles.[II-7] - -_Oct. 3d._ Cold in the morning. Mercury at zero. Came on very well; -some ripples and shoals. Killed three geese and one raccoon [_Procyon -lotor_]; also a brelaw,[II-8] an animal I had never before seen. -Distance 15½ miles.[II-9] - -_Oct. 4th._ Rained in the morning; but the wind serving, we embarked, -although it was extremely raw and cold. Opposite the mouth of Crow -river [present name] we found a bark canoe cut to pieces with -tomahawks, and the paddles broken on shore; a short distance higher up -we saw five more, and continued to see the wrecks until we found -eight. From the form of the canoes my interpreter pronounced them to -be Sioux; and some broken arrows to be the Sauteurs. The paddles were -also marked with the Indian sign of men and women killed. From all -these circumstances we drew this inference, that the canoes had been -the vessels of a party of Sioux who had been attacked and all killed -or taken by the Sauteurs. Time may develop this transaction. My -interpreter was much alarmed, assuring me that it was probable that at -our first rencounter with the Chipeways they would take us for Sioux -traders, and fire on us before we could come to an explanation; that -they had murdered three Frenchmen whom they found on the shore about -this time last spring; but notwithstanding his information, I was on -shore all the afternoon in pursuit of elk. Caught a curious little -animal on the prairie, which my Frenchman [Rousseau] termed a prairie -mole,[II-10] but it is very different from the mole of the States. -Killed two geese, one pheasant [ruffed grouse, _Bonasa umbellus_], and -a wolf. Distance 16 miles.[II-11] - -_Oct. 5th._ Hard water and ripples all day. Passed several old Sioux -encampments, all fortified. Found five litters in which sick or -wounded had been carried. At this place a hard battle was fought -between the Sioux and Sauteurs in the year 1800. Killed one goose. -Distance 11 miles.[II-12] - -_Sunday, Oct. 6th._ Early in the morning discovered four elk; they -swam the river. I pursued them, and wounded one, which made his escape -into a marsh; saw two droves of elk. I killed some small game and -joined the boats near night. Found a small red capot hung upon a tree; -this my interpreter informed me was a sacrifice by some Indians to the -_bon Dieu_. I determined to lie by and hunt next day. Killed three -prairie-hens [pinnated grouse, _Tympanuchus americanus_] and two -pheasants. This day saw the first elk. Distance 12 miles.[II-13] - -_Oct. 7th._ Lay by in order to dry my corn, clothing, etc., and to -have an investigation into the conduct of my sergeant [Kennerman], -against whom some charges were exhibited. Sent several of my men out -hunting. I went toward evening and killed some prairie-hens; the -hunters were unsuccessful. Killed three prairie-hens and six -pheasants. - -_Oct. 8th._ Embarked early and made a very good day's march; had but -three rapids to pass all day. Some oak woodland on the W. side, but -the whole bottom covered with prickly-ash. I made it a practice to -oblige every man to march who complained of indisposition, by which -means I had some flankers on both sides of the river, who were -excellent guards against surprises; they also served as hunters. We -had but one raccoon killed by all. Distance 20 miles.[II-14] - -_Oct. 9th._ Embarked early; wind ahead; barrens and prairie. Killed -one deer and four pheasants. Distance 3 miles. [Camp between Plum -creek and St. Augusta.] - -_Oct. 10th._ Came to large islands and strong water early in the -morning. Passed the place at which Mr. [Joseph] Reinville and Mons. -Perlier [?] wintered in 1797. Passed a cluster of more than 20 islands -in the course of four miles; these I called Beaver islands, from the -immense sign of those animals; for they have dams on every island and -roads from them every two or three rods. I would here attempt a -description of this wonderful animal, and its admirable system of -architecture, were not the subject already exhausted by the numerous -travelers who have written on this subject. Encamped at the foot of -the Grand [Sauk] Rapids. Killed two geese, five ducks, and four -pheasants. Distance 16½ miles.[II-15] - -_Oct. 11th._ Both boats passed the worst of the rapids by eleven -o'clock, but we were obliged to wade and lift them over rocks where -there was not a foot of water, when at times the next step would be in -water over our heads. In consequence of this our boats were frequently -in imminent danger of being bilged on the rocks. About five miles -above the rapids our large boat was discovered to leak so fast as to -render it necessary to unload her, which we did. Stopped the leak and -reloaded. Near a war-encampment I found a painted buckskin and a piece -of scarlet cloth, suspended by the limb of a tree; this I supposed to -be a sacrifice to Matcho Maniton [_sic_], to render their enterprise -successful; but I took the liberty of invading the rights of his -diabolical majesty, by treating them as the priests of old have often -done--that is, converting the sacrifice to my own use. Killed only two -ducks. Distance 8 miles.[II-16] - -_Oct. 12th._ Hard ripples in the morning. Passed a narrow rocky place -[Watab rapids], after which we had good water. Our large boat again -sprung a leak, and we were again obliged to encamp early and unload. -Killed one deer, one wolf, two geese, and two ducks. Distance 12½ -miles.[II-17] - -_Sunday, Oct. 13th._ Embarked early and came on well. Passed [first a -river on the right, which we named Lake river (now called Little Rock -river) and then] a handsome little river on the east, which we named -Clear river [now Platte]; water good. Killed one deer, one beaver, two -minks, two geese, and one duck. Fair winds. Discovered one buffalo -sign. Distance 29 miles.[II-18] - -_Oct. 14th._ Ripples a considerable [part of the] way. My hunters -killed three deer, four geese, and two porcupines. When hunting -discovered a trail which I supposed to have been made by the savages. -I followed it with much precaution, and at length started a large bear -feeding on the carcass of a deer; he soon made his escape. Yesterday -we came to the first timbered land above the falls. Made the first -discovery of bear since we left St. Louis, excepting what we saw three -miles below St. Peters. Distance 17 miles.[II-19] - -_Oct. 15th._ Ripples all day. In the morning the large boat came up, -and I once more got my party together; they had been detained by -taking in the game. Yesterday and this day passed some skirts of good -land, well timbered, swamps of hemlock, and white pine. Water very -hard. The river became shallow and full of islands. We encamped on a -beautiful point on the west, below a fall [Fourth, Knife, or Pike -rapids] of the river over a bed of rocks, through which we had two -narrow shoots to make our way the next day. Killed two deer, five -ducks, and two geese. This day's march made me think seriously of our -wintering ground and leaving our large boats. Distance five -miles.[II-20] - -_Oct. 16th._ When we arose in the morning found that snow had fallen -during the night; the ground was covered, and it continued to snow. -This indeed was but poor encouragement for attacking the rapids, in -which we were certain to wade to our necks. I was determined, however, -if possible, to make la riviere de Corbeau [now Crow Wing river], the -highest point ever made by traders in their bark canoes. We embarked, -and after four hours' work became so benumbed with cold that our -limbs were perfectly useless. We put to shore on the opposite side of -the river, about two-thirds of the way up the rapids. Built a large -fire; and then discovered that our boats were nearly half-full of -water, both having sprung such large leaks as to oblige me to keep -three hands bailing. My Sergeant Kennerman, one of the stoutest men I -ever knew, broke a blood-vessel and vomited nearly two quarts of -blood. One of my corporals, Bradley, also evacuated nearly a pint of -blood when he attempted to void his urine. These unhappy -circumstances, in addition to the inability of four other men, whom we -were obliged to leave on shore, convinced me that if I had no regard -for my own health and constitution, I should have some for those poor -fellows, who were killing themselves to obey my orders. After we had -breakfasted and refreshed ourselves, we went down to our boats on the -rocks, where I was obliged to leave them. I then informed my men that -we would return to the camp, and there leave some of the party and our -large boats. This information was pleasing, and the attempt to reach -the camp soon accomplished. - -My reasons for this step have partly been already stated. The -necessity of unloading and refitting my boats, the beauty and -convenience of the spot for building huts, the fine pine trees for -peroques, and the quantity of game, were additional inducements. We -immediately unloaded our boats and secured their cargoes. In the -evening I went out upon a small but beautiful creek [_i. e._, Pine -creek of Pike, now Swan river[II-21]] which empties into the falls [on -the W. side], for the purpose of selecting pine trees to make canoes. -Saw five deer, and killed one buck weighing 137 pounds. By my leaving -men at this place, and from the great quantities of game in its -vicinity, I was insured plenty of provision for my return voyage. In -the party [to be] left behind was one hunter, to be continually -employed, who would keep our stock of salt provisions good. Distance -233½ [about 111] miles above the falls of St. Anthony. - -_Oct. 17th._ It continued to snow. I walked out in the morning and -killed four bears, and my hunter three deers. Felled our trees for -canoes and commenced working on them. - -_Oct. 18th._ Stopped hunting and put every hand to work. Cut 60 logs -for huts and worked at the canoes. This, considering we had only two -felling-axes and three hatchets, was pretty good work. Cloudy, with -little snow. - -_Oct. 19th._ Raised one of our houses and almost completed one canoe. -I was employed the principal part of this day in writing letters and -making arrangements which I deemed necessary, in case I should never -return. - -_Sunday, Oct. 20th._ Continued our labor at the houses and canoes; -finished my letters, etc. At night discovered the prairie on the -opposite side of the river to be on fire: supposed to have been made -by the Sauteurs. I wished much to have our situation respectable -[defensible] here, or I would have sent next day to discover them. - -_Oct. 21st._ Went out hunting, but killed nothing, not wishing to -shoot at small game. Our labor went on. - -_Oct. 22d._ Went out hunting. About 15 miles up the [Pine] creek saw a -great quantity of deer; but from the dryness of the woods and the -quantity of brush, only shot one through the body, which made its -escape. This day my men neglected their work, which convinced me I -must leave off hunting and superintend them. Miller and myself lay out -all night in the pine woods. - -_Oct. 23d._ Raised another blockhouse; deposited all our property in -the one already completed. Killed a number of pheasants and ducks, -while visiting my canoe-makers. Sleet and snow. - -_Oct. 24th._ The snow having fallen one or two inches thick in the -night, I sent out one hunter, Sparks, and went out myself; Bradley, my -other hunter, being sick. Each of us killed two deer, one goose, and -one pheasant. - -_Oct. 25th._ Sent out men with Sparks to bring in his game. None of -them returned, and I supposed them to be lost in the hemlock swamps -with which the country abounds. My interpreter, however, whom I -believe to be a coward, insisted that they were killed by the -Sauteurs. Made arrangements for my departure. - -_Oct. 26th._ Launched my canoes and found them very small. My hunter -killed three deer. Took Miller and remained out all night, but killed -nothing. - -_Sunday, Oct. 27th._ Employed in preparing our baggage to depart. - -_Oct. 28th._ My two canoes being finished, launched, and brought to -the head of the rapids, I put my provision, ammunition, etc., on -board, intending to embark by day. Left them under the charge of the -sentinel; in an hour one of them sunk, in which was the ammunition and -my baggage; this was occasioned by what is called a wind-shock.[II-22] -This misfortune, and the extreme smallness of my canoes, induced me to -build another. I had my cartridges spread out on blankets and large -fires made around them. At that time I was not able to ascertain the -extent of the misfortune, the magnitude of which none can estimate, -save only those in the same situation with ourselves, 1,500 miles from -civilized society; and in danger of losing the very means of -defense--nay, of existence. - -_Oct. 29th._ Felled a large pine and commenced another canoe. I was at -work on my cartridges all day, but did not save five dozen out of 30. -In attempting to dry the powder in pots I blew it up, and it had -nearly blown up a tent and two or three men with it. Made a dozen new -cartridges with the old wrapping-paper. - -_Oct. 30th._ My men labored as usual. Nothing extraordinary. - -_Oct. 31st._ Inclosed my little work completely with pickets. Hauled -up my two boats, and turned them over on each side of the gateway, by -which means a defense was made to the river. Had it not been for -various political reasons, I would have laughed at the attack of 800 -or 1,000 savages, if all my party were within. For, except accidents, -it would only have afforded amusement, the Indians having no idea of -taking a place by storm. Found myself powerfully attacked with the -fantastics of the brain called ennui, at the mention of which I had -hitherto scoffed; but my books being packed up, I was like a person -entranced, and could easily conceive why so many persons who had been -confined to remote places acquired the habit of drinking to excess and -many other vicious practices, which have been adopted merely to pass -time. - -_Nov. 1st._ Finding that my canoe would not be finished in two or -three days, I concluded to take six men and go down the river about 12 -miles [vicinity of Buffalo cr. (Two Rivers)], where we had remarked -great sign of elk and buffalo. Arrived there about the middle of the -afternoon. All turned out to hunt. None of us killed anything but -Sparks, one doe. A slight snow fell. - -_Nov. 2d._ Left the camp with the fullest determination to kill an -elk, if it were possible, before my return. I never had killed one of -those animals. Took Miller, whose obliging disposition made him -agreeable in the woods. I was determined, if we came on the trail of -elk, to follow them a day or two in order to kill one. This, to a -person acquainted with the nature of those animals, and the extent of -the prairies in this country, would appear, what it really was, a very -foolish resolution. We soon struck where a herd of 150 had passed. -Pursued and came in sight about eight o'clock, when they appeared, at -a distance, like an army of Indians moving along in single file; a -large buck, of at least four feet between the horns, leading the van, -and one of equal magnitude bringing up the rear. We followed until -near night, without once being able to get within pointblank shot. I -once made Miller fire at them with his musket, at about 400 yards' -distance; it had no other effect than to make them leave us about five -miles behind on the prairie. Passed several deer in the course of the -day, which I think we could have killed, but did not fire for fear of -alarming the elk. Finding that it was no easy matter to kill one, I -shot a doe through the body, as I perceived by her blood where she lay -down in the snow; yet, not knowing how to track, we lost her. Shortly -after saw three elk by themselves near a copse of woods. Approached -near them and broke the shoulder of one; but he ran off with the other -two just as I was about to follow. Saw a buck deer lying on the grass; -shot him between the eyes, when he fell over. I walked up to him, put -my foot on his horns, and examined the shot; immediately after which -he snorted, bounced up, and fell five steps from me. This I considered -his last effort; but soon after, to our utter astonishment, he jumped -up and ran off. He stopped frequently; we pursued him, expecting him -to fall every minute; by which we were led from the pursuit of the -wounded elk. After being wearied out in this unsuccessful chase we -returned in pursuit of the wounded elk, and when we came up to the -party, found him missing from the flock. Shot another in the body; but -my ball being small, he likewise escaped. Wounded another deer; when, -hungry, cold, and fatigued, after having wounded three deer and two -elk, we were obliged to encamp in a point of hemlock woods, on the -head of Clear [Platte] river. The large herd of elk lay about one mile -from us, in the prairie. Our want of success I ascribe to the -smallness of our balls, and to our inexperience in following the track -after wounding the game, for it is very seldom a deer drops on the -spot you shoot it. - -_Sunday, Nov. 3d._ Rose pretty early and went in pursuit of the elk. -Wounded one buck deer on the way. We made an attempt to drive them -into the woods; but their leader broke past us, and it appeared as if -the drove would have followed him, though they had been obliged to run -over us. We fired at them passing, but without effect. Pursued them -through the swamp till about ten o'clock, when I determined to attempt -to make the river, and for that purpose took a due south course. -Passed many droves of elk and buffalo, but being in the middle of an -immense prairie, knew it was folly to attempt to shoot them. Wounded -several deer, but got none. In fact, I knew I could shoot as many -deer as anybody; but neither myself nor company could find one in ten, -whereas one experienced hunter would get all. Near night struck a lake -about five miles long and two miles wide. Saw immense droves of elk on -both banks. About sundown saw a herd crossing the prairie toward us. -We sat down. Two bucks, more curious than the others, came pretty -close. I struck one behind the fore shoulder; he did not go more than -20 yards before he fell and died. This was the cause of much -exultation, because it fulfilled my determination; and, as we had been -two days and nights without victuals, it was very acceptable. Found -some scrub oak. In about one mile made a fire, and with much labor and -pains got our meat to it; the wolves feasting on one half while we -were carrying away the other. We were now provisioned, but were still -in want of water, the snow being all melted. Finding my drought very -excessive in the night, I went in search of water, and was much -surprised, after having gone about a mile, to strike the Mississippi. -Filled my hat and returned to my companion. - -_Nov. 4th._ Repaired my mockinsons, using a piece of elk's bone as an -awl. We both went to the Mississippi and found we were a great -distance from the camp. I left Miller to guard the meat and marched -for camp. Having strained my ankles in the swamps, they were extremely -sore, and the strings of my mockinsons cut them and made them swell -considerably. Before I had gone far I discovered a herd of 10 elk; -approached within 50 yards and shot one through the body. He fell on -the spot; but rose again and ran off. I pursued him at least five -miles, expecting every minute to see him drop. I then gave him up. -When I arrived at Clear [Platte] river, a deer was standing on the -other bank. I killed him on the spot, and while I was taking out the -entrails another came up. I shot him also. This was my last ball, and -then only could I kill! Left part of my clothes at this place to scare -the wolves. Arrived at my camp at dusk, to the great joy of our men, -who had been to our little garrison to inquire for me, and receiving -no intelligence, had concluded we were killed by the Indians, having -heard them fire on the opposite bank. The same night we saw fires on -the opposite shore in the prairie; this was likewise seen in the fort, -when all the men moved into the works. - -_Nov. 5th._ Sent four of my men with one canoe, loaded with the -balance of nine deer that had been killed; with the other two, went -down the river for my meat. Stopped for the deer, which I found safe. -Miller had just started to march home, but returned to camp with us. -Found all the meat safe, and brought it to the river, where we pitched -our camp. - -_Nov. 6th._ At the earnest entreaties of my men, and with a hope of -killing some more game, I agreed to stay and hunt. We went out and -found that all the elk and buffalo had gone down the river from those -plains the day before, leaving large roads to point out their course. -This would not appear extraordinary to persons acquainted with the -nature of those animals, as the prairie had unluckily caught fire. -After Miller left the camp for home, Sparks killed two deer, about six -miles off; and it being near the river, I sent the three men down with -the canoe, to return early in the morning. It commenced snowing about -midnight, and by morning was six inches deep. - -_Nov. 7th._ Waited all day with the greatest anxiety for my men. The -river became nearly filled with snow, partly congealed into ice. My -situation can more easily be imagined than described. Went down the -river to where I understood the deer were killed; but discovered -nothing of my men. I now became very uneasy on their account, for I -was well aware of the hostile disposition of the Indians to all -persons on this part of the Mississippi, taking them to be -traders--and we had not yet had an opportunity of explaining to them -who we were. Snow still continued falling very fast, and was nearly -knee-deep. Had great difficulty to procure wood sufficient to keep up -a fire all night. Ice in the river thickening. - -_Nov. 8th._ My men not yet arrived. I determined to depart for the -garrison, and when the river had frozen, to come down on the ice with -a party, or, if the weather became mild, by water, with my other -peroques, to search for my poor men. Put up about ten pounds of meat, -two blankets, and a bearskin, with my sword and gun, which made for me -a very heavy load. Left the meat in as good a situation as possible. -Wrote on the snow my wishes, and put my handkerchief up as a flag. -Departed. My anxiety of mind was so great that, notwithstanding my -load and the depth of the snow, I made into the bottom, above our -former hunting-camp, a little before night. Passed several deer and -one elk, which I might probably have killed; but not knowing whether I -should be able to secure the meat if I killed them, and bearing in -mind that they were created for the use and not the sport of man, I -did not fire at them. While I was endeavoring to strike fire I heard -voices, and looking round, observed Corporal Meek and three men -passing. Called them to me, and we embarked together. They were on -their march down to see if they could render us any assistance in -ascending the river. They were much grieved to hear my report of the -other men, Corporal Bradley, Sparks, and Miller. - -_Nov. 9th._ Snowed a little. The men carried my pack. I was so sore -that it was with difficulty I carried my gun; fortunately they brought -with them a pair of mockinsons, sent me by one of my soldiers, Owings, -who had rightly calculated that I was bare-foot; also a phial of -whisky, sent by the sergeant; were both very acceptable to me. They -brought also some tobacco for my lost men. We experienced difficulty -in crossing the river, owing to the ice. Moved into the post my -command, who were again encamped out, ready to march up the river. Set -all hands to making sleds, in order that the moment the river closed I -might descend, with a strong party, in search of my lost men. Issued -provisions, and was obliged to use six venison hams, being part of a -quantity of elegant hams I had preserved to take down, if possible, -to the general and some other friends. Had the two hunters not been -found, I must have become a slave to hunting in order to support my -party. The ice still ran very thick. - -_Sunday, Nov. 10th._ Continued making sleds. No news of my hunters. -Ice in the river very thick and hard. Raised my tent with puncheons, -and laid a floor in it. - -_Nov. 11th._ I went out hunting. Saw but two deer. Killed a remarkably -large black fox. Bradley and Miller arrived, having understood the -writing on the snow, and left Sparks behind at the camp to take care -of the meat. Their detention was owing to their being lost on the -prairie the first night, and not being able to find their deer. - -_Nov. 12th._ Dispatched Miller and Huddleston to the lower -hunting-camp, and Bradley and Brown to hunting in the woods. Made my -arrangements in camp. Thawing weather. - -_Nov. 13th._ Bradley returned with a very large buck, which supplied -us for the next four days. - -_Nov. 14th._ It commenced raining at 4 o'clock a. m.; lightning and -loud thunder. I went down the river in one of my canoes, with five -men, in order to bring up the meat from the lower camp; but after -descending about 13 miles, found the river blocked up with ice. -Returned about two miles and encamped in the bottom where I had my -hunting-camp on the 1st inst. Extremely cold toward night. - -_Nov. 15th._ When we meant to embark in the morning, found the river -full of ice and hardly moving. Returned to camp and went out to hunt, -for we had no provision with us. Killed nothing but five prairie-hens, -which afforded us this day's subsistence; this bird I took to be the -same as grouse. Expecting the ice had become hard, we attempted to -cross the river, but could not. In the endeavor one man fell through. -Freezing. - -_Nov. 16th._ Detached Corporal Meek and one private to the garrison, -to order the sleds down. No success in hunting, except a few fowl. I -began to consider the life of a hunter a very slavish life, and -extremely precarious as to support; for sometimes I have myself, -although no hunter, killed 600 weight of meat in one day; and I have -hunted three days successively without killing anything but a few -small birds, which I was obliged to do to keep my men from starving. -Freezing. - -_Sunday, Nov. 17th._ One of my men arrived; he had attempted to make -the camp before, but lost himself in the prairie, lay out all night, -and froze his toes. He informed us that the corporal and the men I -sent with him had their toes frost-bitten, the former very badly; that -three men were on their way down by land, the river above not being -frozen over. They arrived a few hours before night. Freezing. - -_Nov. 18th._ Took our departure down the river on the ice, our baggage -on the sled. Ice very rough. Distance 12 miles. Freezing. - -_Nov. 19th._ Arrived opposite our hunting-camp about noon. Had the -meat, etc., moved over. They had a large quantity of meat. I went out -and killed a very large buck. Thawing. - -_Nov. 20th._ Departed to return to the stockade, part of our meat on -the sled and part in the little peroque, the river being open in the -middle. Killed four deer. Thawing. Distance five miles. - -_Nov. 21st._ Marched in the morning. Came to a place where the river -was very narrow, and the channel blocked up. Were obliged to unload -our peroque and haul her over. The river having swelled a good deal at -this place the ice gave way with myself and two men on it. We seized -the sled that stood by us, with some little baggage on it, and by -jumping over four cracks, the last two feet wide, providentially made -our passage good without losing an individual thing. Encamped opposite -Clear [Platte] river. Killed one deer and one otter. Freezing. - -_Nov. 22d._ Were obliged to leave our canoe at Clear river, the river -being closed. Made two trips with our sled. Killed one deer. Distance -five miles. - -_Nov. 23d._ Having seen a great deal of buffalo sign, I determined to -kill one the next day--forgetting the elk chase. Encamped nearly -opposite our camp of the 15th and 16th. Thawing. Distance four miles. - -_Sunday, Nov. 24th._ Took Miller and Boley and went in pursuit of -buffalo. Came up with some about ten o'clock. In the afternoon wounded -one. Pursued them until night, and encamped on the side of a swamp. -Thawing. - -_Nov. 25th._ Commenced again the pursuit of the buffalo, and continued -till eleven o'clock, when I gave up the chase. Arrived at the camp -about sundown, hungry and weary, having eaten nothing since we left -it. My rifle carried too small a ball to kill buffalo; the balls -should not be more than 30 to the pound--an ounce ball would be still -preferable--and the animal should be hunted on horse-back. I think -that in the prairies of this country the bow and arrow could be used -to more advantage than the gun; for you might ride immediately -alongside, and strike them where you pleased, leaving them to proceed -after others. Thawing. - -_Nov. 26th._ Proceeded up the river. The ice getting very rotten, the -men fell through several times. Thawing. Distance five miles. - -_Nov. 27th._ Took one man and marched to the post. Found all well. My -hunter, Bradley, had killed 11 deer since my departure. Sent all the -men down to help the party up. They returned, accompanied by two -Indians, who informed me they were two men of a band who resided on -Lake Superior, called the Fols Avoins, but spoke the language of the -Chipeways. They informed me that Mr. Dickson's[II-23] and the other -trading-houses were established about 60 miles below, and that there -were 70 lodges of Sioux on the Mississippi. All my men arrived at the -post. We brought from our camp below the balance of 17 deer and 2 elk. - -_Nov. 28th._ The Indians departed, much pleased with their reception. -I dispatched Corporal Meek and one private down to Dickson with a -letter, which would at least have the effect of attaching the most -powerful tribes in this quarter to my interest. - -_Nov. 29th._ A Sioux, the son of a warrior called the Killeur -Rouge,[II-24] of the Gens des Feuilles, and a Fols Avoin, came to the -post. He said that having struck our trail below and finding some to -be shoe-tracks, he conceived it to be the establishment of some -traders, took it, and came to the post. He informed me that Mr. -Dickson had told the Sioux "that they might now hunt where they -pleased, as I had gone ahead and would cause the Chipeways, wherever I -met them, to treat them with friendship; that I had barred up the -mouth of the St. Peters, so that no liquor could ascend that river; -but that if they came on the Mississippi they should have what liquor -they wanted; also, that I was on the river and had a great deal of -merchandise to give them in presents." This information of Mr. Dickson -to the Indians seemed to have self-interest and envy for its motives; -for, by the idea of my having prevented liquor from going up the St. -Peters he gave the Indians to understand that it was a regulation of -my own, and not a law of the United States; by assuring them he would -sell to them on the Mississippi, he drew all the Indians from the -traders on the St. Peters, who had adhered to the restriction of not -selling liquor; and should any of them be killed the blame would all -lie on me, as he had without authority assured them they might hunt in -security. I took care to give the young chief a full explanation of my -ideas on the subject. He remained all night. Killed two deer. - -_Nov. 30th._ I made the two Indians some small presents. They crossed -the river and departed. Detached Kennerman with 11 men to bring up the -two canoes. - -_Sunday, Dec. 1st._ Snowed a little in the middle of the day. Went out -with my gun, but killed nothing. - -_Dec. 2d._ Sparks arrived from the party below, and informed me they -could not kill any game, but had started up with the little peroque; -also, that Mr. Dickson and a Frenchman had passed my detachment about -three hours before. He left them on their march to the post. Sparks -arrived about ten o'clock at night. - -_Dec. 3d._ Mr. Dickson, with an engagee and a young Indian, arrived -at the fort. I received him with every politeness in my power, and -after a serious conversation with him on the subject of the -information given me on the 29th ult., was induced to believe it in -part incorrect. He assured me that no liquor was sold by him, or by -any houses under his direction. He gave me much useful information -relative to my future route, which gave me great encouragement as to -the certainty of my accomplishing the object of my voyage to the -fullest extent. He seemed to be a gentleman of general commercial -knowledge, possessing much geographical information of the western -country, and of open, frank manners. He gave me many assurances of his -good wishes for the prosperity of my undertaking. - -_Dec. 4th._ My men arrived with one canoe only. Calculated on -returning them two days later. - -_Dec. 5th._ Mr. Dickson, with his two men, departed for their station -[in the vicinity of Thousand Islands, below St. Cloud], after having -furnished me with a letter for a young man of his house on Lake de -Sable [Sandy lake], and _carte blanche_ as to my commands on him. -Weather mild. - -_Dec. 6th._ I dispatched my men down to bring up the other peroque -with a strong sled on which it was intended to put the canoe about -one-third, and to let the end drag on the ice. Three families of the -Fols Avoins arrived and encamped near the fort; also, one Sioux, who -pretended to have been sent to me from the Gens des Feuilles, to -inform me that the Yanctongs and Sussitongs,[II-25] two bands of Sioux -from the head of the St. Peters and the Missouri, and the most savage -of them, had commenced the war-dance and would depart in a few days; -in which case he conceived it would be advisable for the Fols Avoins -to keep close under my protection; that making a stroke on the -Chipeways would tend to injure the grand object of my voyage, etc. -Some reasons induced me to believe he was a self-created envoy; -however, I offered to pay him, or any young Sioux, who would go to -those bands and carry my word. He promised to make known my wishes -upon his return. My men returned in the evening without my canoe, -having been so unfortunate as to split her in carrying her over the -rough hilly ice in the ripples below. So many disappointments almost -wearied out my patience; notwithstanding, I intended to embark by land -and water in a few days. - -_Dec. 7th._ An Indian by the name of Chien Blanche,[II-26] of the Fols -Avoin tribe, with his family and connections, arrived and encamped -near the stockade. He informed me that he had wintered here for ten -years past; that the sugar-camp near the stockade was where he made -sugar. He appeared to be an intelligent man. I visited his camp in the -afternoon, and found him seated amidst his children and grandchildren, -amounting in all to ten. His wife, although of an advanced age, was -suckling two children that appeared to be about two years old. I -should have taken them to be twins, had not one been much fairer than -the other. Upon inquiry, however, I found that the fairest was the -daughter of an Englishman, by one of the Indian's daughters, lately -deceased; since whose death the grandmother had taken it to the -breast. His lodge was made of rushes plaited into mats, after the -manner of the Illinois. I was obliged to give some meat to all the -Indians who arrived at the stockade, at the same time explaining our -situation. The Chien Blanche assured me it should be repaid with -interest in the course of the winter, but that at that time he was -without anything to eat. In fact, our hunters having killed nothing -for several days, we were ourselves on short allowance. - -_Dec. 8th._ An invalid Sioux arrived with the information that the -bands of the Sussitongs and Yanctongs had actually determined to make -war on the Chipeways, and that they had formed a party of 150 or 160 -men; but that part of the Sussitongs had refused to go to war, and -would be here on a visit to me the next day. This occasioned me to -delay crossing the river immediately, on my voyage to Lake Sang Sue -[Leech lake], as it was possible that by having a conference with them -I might still prevent the stroke intended to be made against the -Chipeways. - -_Dec. 9th._ Prepared to embark. Expecting the Sioux, I had two large -kettles of soup made for them. Had a shooting-match with four prizes. -The Sioux did not arrive, and we ate the soup ourselves. Crossed the -river and encamped above the [Knife or Pike] rapids.[II-27] Wind changed -and it grew cold. - -_Dec. 10th._ After arranging our sleds and peroque we commenced our -march. My sleds were such as are frequently seen about farmers' yards, -calculated to hold two barrels or 400 weight, in which two men were -geared abreast. The sleds on the prairie and the peroque were towed by -three men. Found it extremely difficult to get along, the snow being -melted off the prairie in spots. The men who had the canoe were -obliged to wade and drag her over the rocks in many places. Shot the -only deer I saw; it fell three times, and then made its escape. This -was a great disappointment, for upon the game we took now we depended -for our subsistence. This evening disclosed to my men the real danger -they had to encounter. Distance five miles.[II-28] - -_Dec. 11th._ It having thawed all night, the snow had almost melted -from the prairie. I walked on until ten o'clock, and made a fire. I -then went back to look for the peroque, and at a remarkable [Little -Elk] rapid in the river, opposite a high piny island, made a fire and -waited for them to come up, when we partly unloaded. I returned and -met the sleds. When we arrived at the place pitched on for our camp, I -sent the men down to assist the peroque. In the afternoon, from about -three o'clock, we heard the report of not less than 50 guns ahead, and -after dusk much shooting on the prairie. I was at a loss to know who -they could be, unless they were Sauteaux, and what could be their -object in shooting after dark. Kept a good lookout. Distance five -miles.[II-29] - -_Dec. 12th._ The snow having almost entirely left the prairie, we were -obliged to take on but one sled at a time and treble man it. In the -morning my interpreter came to me with quite a martial air, and -requested that he might be allowed to go ahead to discover what -Indians we heard fire last evening. I gave him permission and away he -went. Shortly after, I went out with Corporal Bradley and a private, -and in about an hour overtook my partizan, on a bottom close to the -river; he was hunting raccoons, and had caught five. We left him; and -after choosing an encampment and sending the private back to conduct -the party to it, the corporal and myself marched on, anxious to -discover the Indians. We ascended the river about eight miles; saw no -Indians, but discovered that the river was frozen over. This pleased -me more, for we would now be enabled to walk three times our usual -distance in a day. - -I was much surprised that we saw no Indians. After our return to camp -I was told that a Fols Avoin Indian had met my party and informed them -that in the rear of the hills that bordered the prairie there were -many small lakes which by portages communicated with Lake Superior; -that in one day's march on that course we would find English -trading-houses; that the Chipeways were there hunting; that the Sioux -who had visited my camp on the 29th ult., on hearing the firing, had -prudently returned with his companions to the west side of the -Mississippi, agreeably to my advice. How persons unacquainted with the -searching spirit of trade and the enterprise of the people of the -northwest would be surprised to find people who had penetrated from -Lake Superior to lakes little more than marshes! It likewise points -out the difficulty of putting a barrier on their trade. - -All my sleds and peroques did not get up until half-past ten o'clock. -Saw a very beautiful fox, with red back, white tail and breast. My -interpreter called them reynard d'argent [silver fox]. I had no -opportunity of shooting him. Killed six raccoons and one porcupine -[_Erethizon dorsatum_]. Fine day. Distance seven miles.[II-30] - -_Dec. 13th._ Made double trips. Embarked at the upper end of the -ripples. It commenced snowing at three o'clock. Bradley killed one -deer, another man killed one raccoon. Storm continued until next -morning. Distance five miles.[II-31] - -_Dec. 14th._ We departed from our encampment at the usual hour, but -had not advanced one mile when the foremost sled, which happened -unfortunately to carry my baggage and ammunition, fell into the river. -We were all in the river up to our middle in recovering the things. -Halted and made a fire. Came to where the river was frozen over. -Stopped and encamped on the west shore, in a pine wood ["Pine camp" of -Mar. 4th, 1806]. Upon examining my things, found all my baggage wet -and some of my books materially injured; but a still greater injury -was, that all my cartridges and four pounds of double battle Sussex -powder which I had brought for my own use, were destroyed. Fortunately -my kegs of powder were preserved dry, and some bottles of common -glazed powder, which were so tightly corked as not to admit water. Had -this not been the case, my voyage must necessarily have been -terminated, for we could not have subsisted without ammunition. During -the time of our misfortune, two Fols Avoin Indians came to us, one of -whom was at my stockade on the 29th ult., in company with the Sioux. I -signified to them by signs the place of our encampment, and invited -them to come and encamp with us. They left me and both arrived at my -camp in the evening, having each a deer which they presented me; I -gave them my canoe to keep until spring, and in the morning at parting -made them a small present. Sat up until three o'clock drying and -assorting my ammunition, baggage, etc. Killed two deer. Distance four -miles. - -_Sunday, Dec. 15th._ Remained at our camp making sleds. Killed two -deer. Crossed and recrossed several Indian trails in the woods. - -_Dec. 16th._ Remained at the same camp, employed as yesterday. Killed -three deer. I wounded a buffalo in the shoulder, and by a fair race -overtook him in the prairie and gave him another shot; but it being -near night left him till morning.[II-32] - -_Dec. 17th._ Departed from our agreeable encampment at an early hour. -Found our sleds to be very heavily loaded. Broke one sled-runner and -were detained by other circumstances. Bradley, Rosseau the -interpreter, and myself killed four deer and wounded five others. -Having 11 on hand already, I found it necessary to leave behind some -of my other lading. At night we dug a hole, four feet deep, three feet -wide, and six feet long, in which we put one barrel of pork and one -barrel of flour, after wrapping them up in seven deerskins to preserve -them from the damp; we then filled up the hole and built our fire -immediately over it.[II-33] - -_Dec. 18th._ Did not get off until eight o'clock, from the delay in -bringing in our meat. Ice tolerably good. Began to see the Chipeway -encampments very frequently, but had not entirely left the Sioux -country on the western shore. Beautiful pine ridges. - -_Dec. 19th._ Were obliged to take to the prairie, from the river's -being open: but the snow was frozen hard and the sleds did not sink -deep, so that we made a pretty good day's journey. Killed one deer -and two otters. River still open. Distance 10 miles.[II-34] - -_Dec. 20th._ Traveled part of the day on the prairie and on the ice. -Killed one deer. Heard three reports of guns just at sunset, from the -opposite side of the river. Deposited one barrel of flour. Distance -seven miles.[II-35] - -_Dec. 21st._ Bradley and myself went on ahead and overtook my -interpreter, who had left camp very early in hopes that he would be -able to see the river De Corbeau, where he had twice wintered. He was -immediately opposite a large island [Île de Corbeau[II-36]], which he -supposed to have great resemblance to an island opposite the mouth of -the above river; but finally he concluded it was not the island and -returned to camp. But this was actually the [Rivière de Corbeau or -Crow Wing] river, as we discovered when we got to the head of the -island, from which we could see the river's entrance. This fact -exposes the ignorance and inattention of the French and traders, and, -with the exception of a few intelligent men, what little confidence is -to be placed on their information. We ascended the Mississippi about -five miles above the confluence; found it not frozen, but in many -places not more than 100 yards over, mild and still; it had indeed all -the appearance of a small river of a low country. Returned and found -that my party, having broken sleds, etc., had only made good three -miles, while I had marched 35. - -_Sunday, Dec. 22d._ Killed three deer. Owing to the many difficult -places we had to pass, made but 4½ miles. - -_Dec. 23d._ Never did I undergo more fatigue, performing the duties of -hunter, spy, guide, commanding officer, etc., sometimes in front, -sometimes in the rear, frequently in advance of my party 10 or 15 -miles. At night I was scarcely able to make my notes intelligible. -Killed two raccoons. From our sleds breaking down, and having to make -so many portages on the road, made but four miles.[II-37] - -_Dec. 24th._ Took the latitude of the Isle de Corbeau, and found it to -be in 45° 49' 50" N. [It is above 46°.] The Mississippi becomes very -narrow above the river De Corbeau; and, as if it were the forks, -changes its direction from hard W. [read N.] to N. E. generally.[II-38] -Distance 10½ miles.[II-39] - -_Dec. 25th._ Marched, and encamped at eleven o'clock. Gave out two -pounds of extra meat, two pounds of extra flour, one gill of whisky, -and some tobacco per man, in order to distinguish Christmas Day. -Distance three miles. [Not quite to Brainerd yet.] - -_Dec. 26th._ Broke four sleds, broke into the river four times, and -had four carrying-places, since we left the river De Corbeau. The -timber was all yellow and pitch pine, of which there were scarcely any -below. Distance three miles.[II-40] - -_Dec. 27th._ After two carrying-places we arrived where the river was -completely closed with ice; after which we proceeded with some degree -of speed and ease. Killed one bear. The country on both sides -presented a dreary and barren prospect of high rocks, with dead pine -timber. Snow. Distance 10 miles.[II-41] - -_Dec. 28th._ Two sleds fell through the ice. In the morning passed a -very poor country with bare knobs on each side; but toward evening the -bottoms became larger and the pine ridges better timbered. Bradley and -myself marched 10 miles beyond the sleds. Killed one deer. Distance 12 -miles.[II-42] - -_Sunday, Dec. 29th._ Cold, windy day. Met with no material -interruptions; passed some rapids. The snow blew from the woods on to -the river. The country was full of small lakes, some three miles in -circumference. Distance 21 miles.[II-43] - -_Dec. 30th._ The snow having drifted on the ice retarded the sleds. -Numerous small lakes and pine ridges continued. A new species of pine, -called the French sap pine. Killed one otter [_Lutra canadensis_]. -Distance 12 miles.[II-44] - -_Dec. 31st._ Passed Pine[II-45] river about eleven o'clock. At its -mouth there was a Chipeway's encampment of 15 lodges; this had been -occupied in the summer, but was now vacant. By the significations of -their marks we understood that they had marched a party of 50 warriors -against the Sioux, and had killed four men and four women, which were -represented by images carved out of pine or cedar. The four men were -painted and put in the ground to the middle, leaving above ground -those parts which are generally concealed; by their sides were four -painted poles, sharpened at the end to represent the women. Near this -were poles with deerskins, plumes, silk handkerchiefs, etc.; also, a -circular hoop of cedar with something attached, representing a scalp. -Near each lodge they had holes dug in the ground, and boughs ready to -cover them, as a retreat for their women and children if attacked by -the Sioux. - -_Wednesday, Jan. 1st, 1806._ Passed on the bank of the river [1 m. -above Dean brook] six very elegant bark canoes, which had been laid up -by the Chipeways; also, a camp which we conceived to have been -evacuated about ten days. My interpreter came after me in a great -hurry, conjuring me not to go so far ahead, and assured me that the -Chipeways, encountering me without an interpreter, party, or flag, -would certainly kill me. Notwithstanding this I went on several miles -further than usual, in order to make any discoveries that were to be -made; conceiving the savages not so barbarous or ferocious as to fire -on two men (I had one with me) who were apparently coming into their -country, trusting to their generosity; and knowing that if we met only -two or three we were equal to them, I having my gun and pistols and -he his buck-shot. Made some extra presents for New Year's Day. - -_Jan. 2d._ Fine warm day. Discovered fresh sign of Indians. Just as we -were encamping at night, my sentinel informed us that some Indians -were coming full speed upon our trail or track. I ordered my men to -stand by their guns carefully. They were immediately at my camp, and -saluted the flag by a discharge of three pieces; when four Chipeways, -one Englishman, and a Frenchman of the N. W. Company, presented -themselves. They informed us that some women, having discovered our -trail, gave the alarm, and not knowing but it was their enemies, they -had departed to make a discovery. They had heard of us and revered our -flag. Mr. [Cuthbert?] Grant, the Englishman, had only arrived the day -before from Lake De Sable [Sandy lake], from which he had marched in -one day and a half. I presented the Indians with half a deer, which -they received thankfully, for they had discovered our fires some days -ago, and believing it to be the Sioux, they dared not leave their -camp. They returned, but Mr. Grant remained all night. - -_Jan. 3d._ My party marched early, but I returned with Mr. Grant to -his establishment on [Lower] Red Cedar Lake, having one corporal with -me. When we came in sight of his house I observed the flag of Great -Britain flying. I felt indignant, and cannot say what my feelings -would have excited me to do, had he not informed me that it belonged -to the Indians. This was not much more agreeable to me. After -explaining to a Chipeway warrior called Curly Head [Curleyhead in text -of 1807, p. 33[II-46]] the object of my voyage, and receiving his -answer that he would remain tranquil until my return, we ate a good -breakfast for the country, departed, and overtook my sleds just at -dusk. Killed one porcupine. Distance 16 miles.[II-47] - -_Jan. 4th._ We made 28 points[II-48] in the river; broad, good bottom, -and of the usual timber. In the night I was awakened by the cry of the -sentinel, calling repeatedly to the men; at length he vociferated, -"G--d d--n your souls, will you let the lieutenant be burned to -death?" This immediately aroused me. At first I seized my arms, but -looking round I saw my tents in flames. The men flew to my assistance -and we tore them down, but not until they were entirely ruined. This, -with the loss of my leggins, mockinsons, socks, etc., which I had -hung up to dry, was no trivial misfortune, in such a country and on -such a voyage. But I had reason to thank God that the powder, three -small casks of which I had in my tent, did not take fire; if it had I -must certainly have lost all my baggage, if not my life. - -_Sunday, Jan. 5th._ Mr. Grant promised to overtake me yesterday, but -has not yet arrived. I conceived it would be necessary to attend his -motions with careful observation. Distance 27 miles.[II-49] - -_Jan. 6th._ Bradley and myself walked up 31 points, in hopes to -discover Lake De Sable [Sandy lake]; but finding a near cut of 20 -yards for 10 [two?] miles, and being fearful the sleds would miss it, -we returned 23 points before we found our camp. They had made only -eight points. Met two Frenchmen of the N. W. Company with about 180 -[qu. 80?] pounds on each of their backs, with rackets [snowshoes] on; -they informed me that Mr. Grant had gone on with the Frenchman. Snow -fell all day and was three feet deep. Spent a miserable night. - -_Jan. 7th._ Made but 11 miles, and then were obliged to send ahead and -make fires every three miles; notwithstanding which the cold was so -intense that some of the men had their noses, others their fingers, -and others their toes frozen, before they felt the cold sensibly. Very -severe day's march. - -_Jan. 8th._ Conceiving I was at no great distance from Sandy Lake, I -left my sleds, and with Corporal Bradley took my departure for that -place, intending to send him back the same evening. We walked on very -briskly until near night, when we met a young Indian, one of those who -had visited my camp near [Lower] Red Cedar Lake. I endeavored to -explain to him that it was my wish to go to Lake De Sable that -evening. He returned with me until we came to a trail that led across -the woods; this he signified was a near course. I went this course -with him, and shortly after found myself at a Chipeway encampment, to -which I believe the friendly savage had enticed me with an expectation -that I would tarry all night, knowing that it was too late for us to -make the lake in good season. But upon our refusing to stay, he put us -in the right road. We arrived at the place where the track left the -Mississippi, at dusk, when we traversed about two leagues of a -wilderness, without any very great difficulty, and at length struck -the shore of Lake De Sable, over a branch of which our course lay. The -snow having covered the trail made by the Frenchmen who had passed -before with the rackets, I was fearful of losing ourselves on the -lake; the consequence of which can only be conceived by those who have -been exposed on a lake, or naked plain, a dreary night of January, in -latitude 47° and the thermometer below zero. Thinking that we could -observe the bank of the other shore, we kept a straight course, some -time after discovered lights, and on our arrival were not a little -surprised to find a large stockade. The gate being open, we entered -and proceeded to the quarters of Mr. Grant, where we were treated with -the utmost hospitality. - -_Jan. 9th._ Marched the corporal [back] early, in order that our men -should receive assurances of our safety and success. He carried with -him a small keg of spirits, a present from Mr. Grant. The -establishment of this place was formed 12 years since by the N. W. -Company, and was formerly under the charge of a Mr. Charles Brusky -[Bousquai[II-50]]. It has attained at present such regularity as to -permit the superintendent to live tolerably comfortable. They have -horses procured from Red river of the Indians; raise plenty of Irish -potatoes; catch pike, suckers, pickerel, and white-fish in abundance. -They have also beaver, deer, and moose; but the provision they chiefly -depend upon is wild oats, of which they purchase great quantities from -the savages, giving at the rate of about $1.50 per bushel. But flour, -pork, and salt are almost interdicted to persons not principals in the -trade. Flour sells at 50 cts.; salt, $1; pork, 80 cts.; sugar, 50 -cts.; coffee, ----, and tea, $4.50 per pound. The sugar is obtained -from the Indians, and is made from the maple tree. - -_Jan. 10th._ Mr. Grant accompanied me to the Mississippi to mark the -place for my boats to leave that river. This was the first time I -marched on rackets. I took the course of [Sandy] Lake river, from its -mouth to the lake. Mr. Grant fell through the ice with his rackets on, -and could not have got out without assistance. - -_Jan. 11th._ Remained all day within quarters. - -_Sunday, Jan. 12th_. Went out and met my men about 16 miles. A tree -had fallen on one of them and hurt him very much, which induced me to -dismiss a sled and put the lading on the others. - -_Jan. 13th._ After encountering much difficulty, we [the main party] -arrived at the establishment of the N. W. Company on Lake de Sable, a -little before night. The ice being very bad on [Sandy] Lake river, -owing to the many springs and marshes, one sled fell through. My men -had an excellent room furnished them, and were presented with potatoes -and fille (cant term for a dram of spirits). Mr. Grant had gone to an -Indian lodge to receive his credits. - -_Jan. 14th._ Crossed the lake to the north side, that I might take an -observation; found the lat. 46° 9' 20" N. [it is about 46° 46']. -Surveyed that part of the lake. Mr. Grant returned from the Indian -lodges. They brought a quantity of furs and 11 beaver carcases. - -_Jan. 15th._ Mr. Grant and myself made the tour of the lake, with two -men whom I had for attendants. Found it to be much larger than could -be imagined at a view. My men sawed stocks for the sleds, which I -found it necessary to construct after the manner of the country. On -our march met an Indian coming into the fort; his countenance -expressed no little astonishment when told who I was and whence I -came; for the people in this country themselves acknowledge that the -savages hold the Americans in greater veneration than any other white -people. They say of us, when alluding to warlike achievements, that we -"are neither Frenchmen nor Englishmen, but white Indians." - -_Jan. 16th._ Laid down Lake De Sable, etc. A young Indian whom I had -engaged to go as a guide to Lake Sang Sue [Leech Lake], arrived from -the woods. - -_Jan. 17th._ Employed in making sleds, or _traineaux de glace_, after -the manner of the country. Those sleds are made of a single plank -turned up at one end like a fiddlehead, and the baggage is lashed on -in bags and sacks. Two other Indians arrived from the woods. Engaged -in writing. - -_Jan. 18th._ Busy in preparing my baggage for my departure for Leech -Lake, reading, etc. - -_Sunday, Jan. 19th._ Employed as yesterday. Two men of the N. W. -Company arrived from Fond du Lac Superior with letters, one of which -was from their establishment in Athapuscow [Athapasca], and had been -since last May on the route. While at this post I ate roasted beavers, -dressed in every respect as a pig is usually dressed with us; it was -excellent. I could not discern the least taste of Des Bois [_i. e._, -of the wood on which beavers feed]. I also ate boiled moose's head: -when well boiled, I consider it equal to the tail of the beaver; in -taste and substance they are much alike. - -_Jan. 20th._ The men with the sleds took their departure about two -o'clock. Shortly after I followed them. We encamped at the portage -between the Mississippi and Leech Lake [_i. e._, Willow[II-51]] river. -Snow fell in the night. - -_Jan. 21st._ Snowed in the morning, but we crossed [Willow portage] -about nine o'clock. I had gone on a few points when I was overtaken by -Mr. Grant, who informed me that the sleds could not get along, in -consequence of water being on the ice [of Willow river]; he sent his -men forward. We returned and met the sleds, which had scarcely -advanced one mile. We unloaded them and sent eight men back to the -post [on Sandy lake] with whatever might be denominated extra -articles; but in the hurry sent my salt and ink. Mr. Grant encamped -with me and marched early in the morning [of the 22d]. - -_Jan. 22d._ Made a pretty good day's journey. My Indian came up about -noon. Distance 20 miles. - -_Jan. 23d._ Marched about 18 miles. Forgot my thermometer, having hung -it on a tree; sent Boley back five miles for it. My young Indian and -myself killed eight partridges; took him to live with me. - -_Jan. 24th._ At our encampment this night Mr. Grant had encamped on -the night of the same day he left me; it was three days' march for us. -In the evening the father of his girl came to my camp and stayed all -night; he appeared very friendly and was very communicative; but -having no interpreter, we made but little progress in conversation. It -was late before the men came up. - -_Jan. 25th._ Traveled almost all day through the lands, and found them -much better than usual. Boley lost the Sioux pipestem which I carried -along for the purpose of making peace with the Chipeways; I sent him -back for it; he did not return until eleven o'clock at night. It was -very warm; thawing all day. Distance 44 points. - -_Sunday, Jan. 26th._ I left my party in order to proceed to a house or -lodge of Mr. Grant's on the Mississippi [opposite Grand Rapids], where -he was to tarry until I overtook him. Took with me my Indian, Boley, -and some trifling provision; the Indian and myself marched so fast -that we left Boley on the route about eight miles from the lodge. Met -Mr. Grant's men on their return to Lake De Sable, they having -evacuated the house this morning, and Mr. Grant having marched -[thence] for Leech Lake. The Indian and I arrived before sundown [at -Grant's house[II-52]]. Passed the night very uncomfortably, having -nothing to eat, not much wood, nor any blankets. The Indian slept -sound. I cursed his insensibility, being obliged to content myself -over a few coals all night. Boley did not arrive. In the night the -Indian mentioned something about his son, etc. - -_Monday, Jan. 27th._ My Indian rose early, mended his mockinsons, then -expressed by signs something about his son and the Frenchman we met -yesterday. Conceiving that he wished to send some message to his -family, I suffered him to depart. After his departure I felt the curse -of solitude, although he truly was no company. Boley arrived about ten -o'clock. He said that he had followed us until some time in the night; -when, believing that he could not overtake us, he stopped and made a -fire; but having no ax to cut wood, he was near freezing. He met the -Indians, who made him signs to go on. I spent the day in putting my -gun in order, mending my mockinsons, etc. Provided plenty of wood; -still found it cold, with but one blanket. - -I can only account for the gentlemen of the N. W. Company contenting -themselves in this wilderness for 10, 15, and some of them for 20 -years, by the attachment they contract for the Indian women. It -appears to me that the wealth of nations would not induce me to remain -secluded from the society of civilized mankind, surrounded by a savage -and unproductive wilderness, without books or other sources of -intellectual enjoyment, or being blessed with the cultivated and -feeling mind of a civilized fair [one]. - -_Tuesday, Jan. 28th._ [My party joined Boley and myself at Grant's -house to-day. _Wednesday, Jan. 29th._[II-53] Took Miller and proceeded -ahead of my party; reached Pakagama falls about one o'clock; proceeded -to three deserted Chipeway lodges; found a fine parcel of firewood -split; cut down three sap pines and wove the branches into one of the -lodges to protect ourselves from the storm; had a tolerable night. -_Thursday, Jan. 30th._ Miller and myself] left our encampment at a -good hour; unable to find any trail, passed through one of the most -dismal cypress swamps I ever saw, and struck the Mississippi at a -small lake. Observed Mr. Grant's tracks going through it; found his -mark of a cut-off, agreed on between us; took it, and proceeded very -well until we came to a small lake where the trail was entirely hid. -But after some search on the other side, found it; when we passed -through a dismal swamp, on the other side of which we found a large -lake at which I was entirely at a loss; no trail was to be seen. -Struck a [White Oak[II-54]] point about three miles, where we found a -Chipeway lodge of one man, his wife, five children, and one old woman. -They received us with every mark that distinguished their barbarity, -such as setting their dogs on ours, trying to thrust their hands into -our pockets, etc. But we convinced them that we were not afraid, and -let them know we were Chewockomen[II-55] (Americans), when they used us -more civilly. - -After we had arranged a camp as well as possible, I went into the -lodge; they presented me with a plate of dried meat. I ordered Miller -to bring about two gills of liquor, which made us all good friends. -The old squaw gave me more meat, and offered me tobacco, which, not -using, I did not take. I gave her an order upon my corporal for one -knife and half a carrot of tobacco. Heaven clothes the lilies and -feeds the ravens, and the same almighty Providence protects and -preserves these creatures. After I had gone out to my fire, the old -man came out and proposed to trade beaver-skins for whisky; meeting -with a refusal, he left me; when presently the old woman came out with -a beaver-skin; she also being refused, he returned to the charge with -a quantity of dried meat, which, or any other, I should have been glad -to have had. I gave him a peremptory refusal; then all further -application ceased. It really appeared that with one quart of whisky I -might have bought all they possessed. Night remarkably cold; was -obliged to sit up nearly the whole of it. Suffered much with cold and -from want of sleep. - -_Friday, Jan. 31st._ Took my clothes into the Indian's lodge to dress, -and was received very coolly; but by giving him a dram unasked, and -his wife a little salt, I received from them directions for my route. -Passed the lake or morass, and opened on meadows through which the -Mississippi winds its course of nearly 15 miles long. Took a straight -course through them to the head, when I found we had missed the river; -made a turn of about two miles and regained it. Passed a fork which I -supposed to be [that coming from] Lake Winipie [or Winipeque, _i. e._, -the main Mississippi river coming from Lake Winnibigoshish], making -the course N. W. The branch we took was Leech Lake branch, course S. -W. and W. Passed a very large meadow or prairie, course W.[II-56] The -[Leech Lake branch of the] Mississippi is only 15 yards wide. -Encamped about one mile below the traverse of the meadow. - -Saw a very large animal which, from its leaps, I supposed to have been -a panther; but if so, it was twice as large as those on the lower -Mississippi. He evinced some disposition to approach. I lay down -(Miller being in the rear) in order to entice him to come near, but he -would not. The night was remarkably cold. Some spirits which I had in -a small keg congealed to the consistency of honey. - -FOOTNOTES: - -[II-1] The village which Pike visited is marked on his map on the west, -upper, or left bank of the Minnesota r., which here runs little E. of -N. into the Mississippi. The hill on the point whence the Sioux -saluted him so savagely was the scene of many a more warlike -demonstration in after-years; for here was built Fort St. Anthony, -later known as Fort Snelling, one of the most important and permanent -military establishments in the United States, and for nearly half a -century the most notable place on the Mississippi above Prairie du -Chien. It was erected on the land which Pike secured by the -transaction his text is about to describe, and which extended thence -up the river to include the falls of St. Anthony, and thus the site of -the present great city of Minneapolis, with St. Paul the twin -metropolis of the Northwest. The location of Fort Snelling is in -Nicollet's opinion "the finest site on the Mississippi river"; and I -should be the last to dissent from this judgment, after my enjoyable -visit to the fort in 1873, at the invitation of General Alexander. The -bluff headland is about 105 feet above the water; the two rivers -separated by this rocky point are respectively over 300 and nearly 600 -feet broad. The height of Pilot Knob, across the Minnesota r., is -about 250 feet. The plateau on the point of which the fort is situated -stretches indefinitely S. W.; 8 m. direct N. W. are Minneapolis and -the falls. The Mississippi receives the Minnesota at the point of -greatest convexity of a deep bend to the S., duplicating that bend to -the N. on which St. Paul is situated, the two together forming quite a -figure of =S=. Nothing came of Pike's recommendation of this site for a -military post till a report to the same effect was made by Major Long, -after his expedition of 1817, during which he reached the place at 2 -p. m., Wednesday, July 16th. On Feb. 10th, 1819, the Secretary of War, -John C. Calhoun, ordered the 5th infantry to proceed to the -Mississippi and establish regimental headquarters at the mouth of St. -Peter's r. A detachment of troops, mustering 98 rank and file, under -Colonel Henry Leavenworth, who had become lieutenant-colonel of that -regiment Feb. 10th, 1818, was first cantoned at New Hope, near -Mendota, Sept. 24th, 1819, and preparations were begun at once for a -permanent structure. The winter of 1819-20 was disastrous from scurvy. -On May 5th, 1820, camp was shifted to a place near a spring, above the -graveyard, and was thereupon named Camp Coldwater. In the spring of -1820 Jean Baptiste Faribault located himself in the vicinity; Governor -Lewis Cass came from his exploration of the upper Mississippi during -the summer, and Lawrence Taliaferro's Indian agency was established as -Camp St. Peter's. As usual, the colonel commanding and the Indian -agent clashed, notably in the matters of medals and whisky. In August, -1820, Colonel Josiah Snelling, who had become colonel of the regiment -June 1st, 1819, arrived and relieved Colonel Leavenworth of the -command. He determined to build on the point originally selected by -Pike. The corner-stone of Fort St. Anthony is supposed to have been -laid Sept. 10th, 1820; and the building was so far forward in the -autumn of 1822 that the troops moved in, though it was not completed. -It is traditional that a tree on which Pike had cut his name was -ordered to be spared in the process of construction; but, if so, it -soon disappeared. On May 10th, 1823, the first steamboat, the -Virginia, reached the fort. It brought among other notables the -Chevalier Beltrami. On July 3d, 1823, Major Long arrived, en route to -his exploration of St. Peter's r. In 1824 General Winfield Scott -visited the fort on a tour of inspection. It does not appear to have -struck anybody before that the name of a professional saint of the -Prince of Peace was absurdly inapplicable to any military -establishment. General Scott very sensibly reported that the name was -"foreign to all our associations," besides being "geographically -incorrect," and recommended the post to be named Fort Snelling, in -well-deserved compliment to the distinguished officer who had built -it. The story of Fort Snelling, from its inception to the end of all -Indian collisions, is an integral and very prominent part of the -history of Minnesota; it is an honorable record, of which citizens and -soldiery may be equally proud--one replete with stirring scenes and -thrilling episodes, which in the lapse of years tradition has -delighted to set in all the glamour of romance. But the most sober -historians have found a wealth of material in the stern actualities of -Fort Snelling. The facts in the case need no embellishment. The -following are some of the many references that could be given to the -early history of Fort Snelling: Occurrences in and around Fort -Snelling from 1819 to 1840, E. D. Neill, M. H. C., II. Part 2, 1864; -2d ed. 1881, pp. 102-42. Early Days at Fort Snelling, Anon., M. H. C., -I. Part 5, 1856; 2d ed. 1872, pp. 420-438 (many inaccuracies in dates, -etc.). Running the Gauntlet, _ibid._, pp. 439-56, Anon., believed to -be by W. J. Snelling, son of Josiah Snelling. Reminiscences of Mrs. -Ann Adams, 1821-29, M. H. C., VI. Part 2, 1891, pp. 93-112. -Autobiography of Maj. Lawrence Taliaferro, written in 1864, M. H. C., -VI. Part 2, pp. 189-255 (specially interesting, as he was Indian -agent, 1819-40). - -[II-2] Pike's speech at this memorable conference, the treaty itself, -and a long letter which Pike addressed to Wilkinson in this connection -on the 23d, 24th, and 25th, formed Docs. Nos. 4 and 5 of the App. to -Part 1 of the orig. ed. These are given in full beyond, Chap. V. Arts. -4, 5, and 6, where the text of the treaty is subjected to a searching -criticism in the light of subsequent events. Here we may conveniently -note the names of the chiefs concerned in the transaction. The best -article I have seen upon this subject is that by Dr. Thomas Foster of -Duluth, in the St. Paul Daily Democrat of May 4th, 1854, as cited by -J. Fletcher Williams in Minn. Hist. Coll., I. 2d ed. 1872, p. 379; -this, however, requires some additions and corrections. - -1. Little Crow and Little Raven are English equivalents of Petit -Corbeau, which latter is a French version of the name of the -hereditary chiefs of the Kapoja band, borne by successive individuals -through several generations. Pike's Little Crow is said by Long to -have been son of Little Crow, who was himself son of Little Crow; and -Foster identifies Pike's Little Crow "as the grandfather of the -present chief, Little Crow," _i. e._, of one of this name who was chief -in 1854, adding neatly that "he was the Great Crow of all," _i. e._, -the most celebrated of all those who bore the name. This reference -would seem to cover five generations, from Pike's Little Crow backward -to his grandfather and forward to his grandson. Riggs renders Pike's -Little Crow's name Chatanwakoowamani, Who-walks-pursuing-a-hawk; says -that his son's name was Wamdetanka, or Big Eagle, who flourished in -the thirties; and adds that the dynasty became extinct with -Taoyatidoota (or Towaiotadootah), who was the Little Crow of the Sioux -outbreak of 1862. He was a very black crow indeed, this last of the -_Corvidæ_, and was killed by a Mr. Lamson in 1863. Confining attention -now to the one who seems by this reckoning to have been Little Crow -III. of the series I.-V., we find him tabulated by Pike as -Chatewaconamini. We have already found him cited by Long as -Chetanwakoamene, rendered Good Sparrow Hunter. Beltrami, II. p. 191, -presents Chatewaconamani, or the Little Raven, as the chief in 1823. -Featherstonhaugh has a chief he calls Tchaypehamonee, or Little Crow, -living in 1835. Rev. Dr. Neill has in one place Chatonwahtooamany, Petit -Corbeau. Dr. Foster gives the Dakota name as Tchahtanwahkoowahmane, -or the Hawk that Chases Walking. Pike's Little Crow lived many years -after he "touched the quill" (signed his x mark) to the cession, and -was in Washington in 1824. Schoolcraft, who held a council with the -Wahpeton Sioux at Fort Snelling, July 25th, 1832, says, Narr., etc., -1834, p. 146: "The aged chief Petite [_sic_] Corbeau uttered their -reply. I recognized in this chief one of the signers of the grant of -land made at this place 26 years ago, when the site of the fort was -first visited by the late General Pike." The death of this good man -(in 1834?) occurred from a mortal wound he accidentally inflicted upon -himself in drawing his gun from a wagon, at his village of Kaposia. -The circumstances are narrated with interesting particulars by General -H. H. Sibley, Minn. Hist. Coll., III. 1874, pp. 251-54. - -2. The chief here and consistently throughout Pike's book of 1810 -called Fils de Pinchow appears in the 1807 text as Fils de Penichon, -Penechon, or Pinechon; but nowhere are we told of whom this eminent -individual was the son. The name seems to have been one to conjure -with; and our curiosity is excited to discover Pinchow I., who was -such a personage that Pike's Fils de Pinchow, or Pinchow II., needed -no other title to glory. On looking up this subject, I find, first, -that "Pinchow," as rendered in the above text, and the three forms -given in the 1807 print, are four variants of a word which is also -written Pinichon, Pinchon, Penition, Pinneshaw, etc., in French or -English; and that these are corruptions of a Dakota word. Thus -Beltrami, II. p. 207, introduces us to one Tacokoquipesceni, or -Panisciowa, as being in 1823 chief of the old village on the St. -Peter's, three miles above its mouth. The shorter name which Beltrami -uses is obviously the same as Pinchow, etc., while the longer one he -uses is the same as that Takopepeshene of which we read in Keating's -Long, I. p. 385: "Wapasha formerly lived in that [old] village, but -having removed from it with the greater part of his warriors, a few -preferred remaining there, and chose one of their number as a leader. -His son Takopepeshene, (dauntless,) now [1823] rules over them." We -read further in Keating's Long, I. p. 419, of the Nanpashene, or -"Dauntless Society," as an association of young braves who feared -nothing: see further in this matter, Lewis and Clark, ed. 1893, p. 96. -So the connection of all these words is obvious, though the genetic -relationships of the individuals bearing the name is not so clear. I -suppose that Pike, Beltrami, and Long all refer to one and the same -individual, _i. e._, to the son of that individual whom the warriors -who preferred to remain at the said village chose as their leader. Dr. -Foster, as above cited, says that Pinchon, or Pinichon, etc., was the -grandfather of one Good Road, and in his tribe the most noted chief of -the eastern Sioux; the name conferred upon this chief being -Tahkookeepayshne, or "What is he afraid of?" implying the affirmation -that he was afraid of nothing. This having been corrupted by the -French to Pinchon, etc., and taken up in English as Pinneshaw, etc., -was readopted by the Sioux themselves as a common noun, rather than a -proper name, to designate a very brave man; so that they would speak -of such or such a one as a pinneshaw. Recurring now to the individual -whom Pike names Fils de Pinchow, we elsewhere find him listed by Pike -under the name of Wyaganage, as a chief of the Gens du Lac and head of -the village Pike visited at the mouth of the St. Peter's; this is the -Way Ago Enagee whose name appears above as that of a signer by his =x= -mark of the grant of land; and such appears to be the only name by -which he became officially known to us. It is spelled differently in -every one of the several places where I have found it in print or in -manuscript; but in no case irrecognizably. - -3. We know no more of the Grand Partisan than this name or title. Dr. -Foster supposes him to have been only a principal soldier--certainly -not a chief. - -4. "Le Original Leve" is decidedly original! The queer phrase stands -for L'Orignal Levé, given in the text of 1807 as Le Orignal Levé, and -thus nearly right. The individual thus designated is listed on Pike's -tabular exhibit as Tahamie, Orignal leve, and Rising Moose; he is also -mentioned in Pike's letter to Wilkinson of Sept. 23d-26th, 1805, as -Elan Levie. There is no doubt about the meaning of these phrases; for -_orignal_, _orignac_, _oriniac_, _orenac_, etc., are Basque forms of a -name of the moose, which animal, as well as the elk, is also called -_élan_, while _levé_ certainly implies that the animal had arisen, and -was standing on his legs, not that he was in the act of rising. Dr. -Foster evidently did not know what the French phrase should be, for he -presents Pike's peculiar cacographies, and is brought to book about it -by Mr. Williams; but he gives us some interesting particulars of the -chief who bore these names, and I transcribe his remarks in substance. -Tah'amie, L'Orignal Levé, or Standing Moose is believed to be -identical with an aged Indian whom most old Minnesotians knew by the -name of Tammahhaw, who had but one eye and always wore a stove-pipe -hat. He used to boast that he was the only "American" Sioux--by which -he meant that in the war of 1812, when the Sioux sided with the -British, and Little Crow and Joseph Reinville led a war-party against -the Americans, he refused to join them and went to St. Louis, where he -entered the service of the Americans in the employ of General William -Clark. In 1854 he still treasured a commission he had received in 1814 -(or May 6th, 1816?) from General Clark. Dr. Foster remarks that if -there is no mistake in the identity, the friendship Tahamie conceived -for Pike stood the test of time, and the two fought together against -our common enemies--a fact which our government should not overlook. -One Joseph Mojou, an old Canadian of Point Prescott, told Dr. Foster -that Tamahaw was called by the voyageurs "Old Priest," because he was -such a talker on all occasions; and Dr. Foster remarks that the Sioux -word _tamwamda_, which resembles this Indian's name, means to -vociferate, reiterate, harangue, etc. Mr. E. A. C. Hatch informed Dr. -Foster that when he traded with the Winnebagoes, and with Wabasha's -band of Sioux, he knew the Indian and had seen the commission issued -by General Clark; also, that the Winnebagoes, who were acquainted with -this Indian, translated his name Nazeekah in their language--this -being their word for the pike, a fish, and _tammahhay_ being the -Dakotan word for that fish. According to J. F. Williams, Minn. Hist. -Coll., III. 1874, p. 15, Tahama or Tahamie was called by the French Le -Bourgne (Borgne), and by the English One-eye, or the One-eyed Sioux, -and that the loss of the eye occurred by accident in a game during his -boyhood. He was born at Prairie à l'Aile, the present site of Winona, -and died in April, 1860, "at least 85 years old, though some who knew -him well place his age at nearly 100." A daguerreotype likeness of -him, procured at Wabasha in 1859 by Hon. C. S. Bryant, is in the -possession of the Minnesota Historical Society. - -5. "Le Demi Douzen" is not named elsewhere in this book, and does not -appear at all in the 1807 edition. If the phrase which represents his -name means Half Dozen, or Six, it would be better written Demie -Douzaine, or Demi-douzaine; but we have seen enough of Pike's French -to be already satisfied that he always saluted the letters of the -French alphabet with blank cartridges. The Indian he calls Demi Douzen -is thoroughly identified by Dr. Foster as the father of the present -(1854) chief Little Six, and the chief of the large Sioux village -which was situated 28 m. up the St. Peter's, 3 or 4 m. this side of -the modern Indian village of Shakopee. The father--the one who -attended Pike's conference--was known as Shahkpay, Half Dozen, and -Six; his son as Shahkpaydan, or Little Six, the former being the -second of the name, or Six II., and the latter the third of the name, -or Six III.; but who was the original Half Dozen, or Six I., founder -of this dynasty, we are not informed. Long speaks of Six II. as -Shakpa, chief of the village Taoapa; and Forsyth calls this one "Mr. -Six, a good-for-nothing fellow." - -6. "Le Beccasse" of the above text was a stumbling-block. In the 1807 -edition the term appears as Le Bucasse. It looks as if it were meant -for La Bécasse, meaning Woodcock. But Dr. Foster (whose text as cited -by Mr. Williams has Le Boccasse) informs us that the phrase should be -written Bras Casse--by which he evidently means Bras Cassé, as he -translates Broken Arm. (Pike's tabular exhibit presents a certain Bras -Casse; but this was a _Sauk_ chief, otherwise Pockquinike.) Broken -Arm's Sioux name is believed by Dr. Foster to have been Wahkantahpay; -"and as late as 1825 he was still living at his small village of -Wahpaykootans, on a lake near the Minnesota [river] some five or six -miles below Prairie La Fleche, now Le Sueur." - -7. Le Boeuf que [qui] Marche, or Walking Buffalo, as we are informed -by Dr. Foster, was also called Tahtawkahmahnee; "he was a kind of -sub-chief of old Wabashaw (who was not present), being also called Red -Wing; and it is from him that the village at the head of Lake Pepin -derives its name. He was the father [Hancock says uncle] of Wahkootay, -the present [1854] old chieftain of the Red Wing band." Compare note -67, p. 69. - -[II-3] Outard Blanche, correctly Outarde Blanche, means White Bustard. -The bustard is a very large bird, many species of which inhabit -Europe, Asia, and Africa, but none America. It may, therefore, be well -to explain that outarde was a name given by the early French in -America to the Canada goose (_Bernicla canadensis_); but that since -this goose is mostly black, the phrase outarde blanche would rather -indicate the snow goose (_Chen hyperboreus_), which when adult is pure -white excepting the tips of the wings. I remember seeing somewhere a -statement, the source of which I cannot now recall, to the effect that -the phrase meant White Buzzard, not White Bustard; in which case the -French form would be Busard Blanc. Major Taliaferro speaks of White -Buzzard in his autobiography, as printed in Minn. Hist. Coll., VI. -Part 2, 1891, p. 225, p. 234, etc. Major Forsyth calls him White -Bustard. However this may be, it is certain that there was a chief of -the name of Mahgossau, who was called Old Bustard, and for many years -known to the whites by the latter designation. For an account of the -stabbing of this chief in a whisky-bout, in the summer of 1820, see -letter of Lawrence Taliaferro, Indian agent at St. Peters, dated Aug. -5th, 1820, in Minn. Hist. Coll., II. Part 2, 1864, 2d ed. 1881, p. -104. - -[II-4] Setting camp close to a small stream which falls in on Pike's -left, and which has acquired great celebrity for its pretty little -water-fall. For this is no other than the Minnehaha. It is a wonder -Pike missed Minnehaha falls; or that, if he was informed of them, he -did not take the trouble to go less than a mile up the stream to see -so pretty a spectacle. About 2½ m. from Fort Snelling, on the road to -Minneapolis, the stream spills over the bluff, with as clear a descent -as water ordinarily makes from the nozzle of a spout. The picturesque -features of this place may be imagined, or easily inspected by -ordinary tourist travel; the poetical and sentimental are well -developed by Longfellow in Hiawatha; the hydrographic are a creek 5 -yards wide, falling 43 feet in an unbroken parabolic curve. This was -formerly plain Brown's cr. and Brown's fall; Nicollet named the stream -Cascade cr.; but it will doubtless always be best known by the name -which Longfellow transferred from its original to a new application, -to suit the exigencies of verse. This stream is the discharge of Lake -Minnetonka. In its course it receives the outlet of a chain of lakes -from the W., called Bass (modern), Calhoun (Nicollet), and Harriet -(Nicollet); nearer the falls is a set of smaller lakes, whose modern -names are Diamond, Pearl, Duck, Mother, Amelia, and Rice (latter, the -Lake Ann of times when Fort Snelling was Fort St. Anthony, an -expansion of Brown's cr. itself). - -[II-5] The rapids Pike thus ascends to the falls, and the comparative -characters of the two gorges, of the Mississippi and Minnesota -respectively, which unite at Fort Snelling, indicate that in -prehistoric time the falls were located about the position of the -fort. But there has been no natural recession within the brief -historic period--merely a momentary flash on the screen of geologic -duration. The most marked alteration of the falls that we know of was -the accidental result of an unintended interference by man. This -happened from the bursting of a log-boom. "Behind the boom were -thousands of logs two or three feet across and twelve feet long. These -descending by the fall probably acquired a velocity of not less than -64 feet a second, and striking endwise on the débris of the hard -copping rock pulverized it so that the undermining of the soft sand -rock which this débris protected went on with great rapidity," Warren, -Ex. Doc. No. 57, 1866-7, p. 19. On July 5th, 1880, the Minn. Hist. -Soc. celebrated the bi-centennial of the discovery of the falls, and -there is no question that they were first seen of white men by the two -companions of Accault within a few hours of July 5th, 1680, if not by -the light of that very day. The occasion was a buffalo-hunt down river -from the great Sioux town on Lake Buade (Mille Lacs), when the Indians -brought the Picard and the priest (two of their three prisoners) -along. The falls were named by Hennepin Sault de S^t. Antoine de Padoü -(so map, 1683) "in gratitude for the favors done me by the Almighty -through the intercession of that great saint whom we had chosen patron -and protector of all our enterprises," as Shea's tr. Hennep., 1880, p. -200, puts it. What these favors were is not evident in the light of -history; according to Hennepin's own relation, God's gracious designs, -whatever they may have been, were effectually disconcerted by the -Sioux, who took this slavish son of superstition by the nape of the -neck and otherwise subjected him to dire indignities; while as to the -monk Anthony, that Franciscan was born at Lisbon, Aug. 15th, 1195, -died at Padua, June 13th, 1231, and there is not a scintilla of -evidence that he did anything whatever subsequent to this latter date. -We might laugh off even so glaring an anachronism as a mere -theological pleasantry which deceives no one, were it not for the -injustice it does to La Salle, who furnished the sinews of war for -Accault's, Auguelle's, and Hennepin's campaign, and was the only -person who patronized their trip, saving the said Sioux, who turned it -into a personally conducted tour like our modern Cook's. "Saut St. -Antoine" appears on Franquelin's map, 1688. The Sioux called these -falls Minirara, the laughing water, whence Minnehaha. In Dakotan _ira_ -means to laugh, and the reduplicated form _irara_ means to laugh much -or often; but _ira_ is compounded of _i_, the mouth, and _ra_, to -curl; and in its application to the falls _rara_, which is simply _ra_ -reduplicated, should be translated curling and not laughing waters. -Ungeographical transfer of Minnehaha to Brown's falls is simply -poetical license. The Chip. name was Kakabikah, alluding to the -severed rock. Hennepin calls the falls "something very astonishing," -indeed "terrible," _more suo crasso_, and exaggerated the descent of -waters to 50 or 60 feet. Carver brings him to book about this, and -reduces the height to 30 feet. Pike's figures are very close indeed, -and his description is the most accurate we had in 1810; Long makes -the height practically the same, but Pike's breadth of 627 yards was -reduced by Say and Calhoun in 1823 to 594. In view of these good -measurements it is surprising that Schoolcraft elevates the falls to -40 feet perpendicular, and narrows the width to 227 yards. He was a -man of great ability and still greater industry, whose acquirements -were extensive and varied; yet he must be taken warily, for there is -many a loose screw in his handiwork, and no structure is stronger than -its weakest joint. The trouble with Schoolcraft is two-fold; he tried -to cover too much ground to go over it thoroughly, and never emerged -from the penumbra of that same theological occultation which kept -Hennepin's wits in total eclipse. The natural beauty of this cataract -was not destined to be a thing of joy forever; one's emotions, on -beholding it now, are those that might be aroused by any mill-tail of -similar dimensions. But the new beauty of utility has been conferred -by human skill and ingenuity in utilizing the vast water-power, to -which Minneapolis measurably owes her matchless progress and present -opulence; pop. 1870, 13,000; 1880, 47,000; 1885, 129,000; now or -lately, 220,000; thus surpassing the 190,000 of her elder sister, St. -Paul--in fact becoming the alter ego of the wonderful pair. -Considering the rapid building up of the fair interurban district, and -consequently the absorption of respective suburbs into mutualities, it -is logical to infer the complete Siamization of the splendid twins, -and a clutch at the laurels of Chicago or New York. By that time such -scenes as the Mississippi has here transferred to the canvas of human -art will be shifted to the Great Falls of the Missouri, where history -will repeat itself in another magnificent metropolis. Everything -begins in watery elements; the force of falling water controls the -course of empire; and the conversion of gravitational potentialities -into electrical potencies realizes dreams of destiny, without the -intercession of saints or the interference of God. - -[II-6] Decidedly less than this; it is only 18-20 m. by river or rail -from Minneapolis to Anoka, which Pike does not reach till to-morrow -night; to-day's camp between Casey's isls. and Coon cr., in Anoka Co. -if on the right, in Hennepin Co. if on the left. The three rapids he -passed raised him from 792 to 808 feet above sea-level; one of them is -known as Fridley's bar, 5 m. above Minneapolis, 1½ m. below Durnam's -isl. He had made the usual portage of the falls on the right-hand side -(left bank); and soon after decamping this morning he passed on his -left Bassett's cr., which runs through the city, or recently did -so--what disposition may have since been made of it I do not know. -This was formerly called Falls cr., as by Nicollet, who maps it in -connection with his Lake of the Isles and two other sheets. Either -this or the next above on the same side is also traced on Pike's map, -without name. This next one is Shingle cr., called Omini Wakan cr. by -Nicollet and by Owen; it comes in on the left a mile or more below -Fridley's bar. Half a mile above Durnam's isl., and on the right, is -Rice or Manomin cr., which Nicollet calls Ottonwey r., and connects -with Mde Wakanton l. Pike also traces this one, but by no name. R. R. -station Fridley is near its mouth. (See further under Fridley, in the -index.) - -[II-7] About 8 m., to Anoka, seat of that county, a logging town of -6,000 pop., at mouth of Rum r. Pike first passed Coon cr., right, and -the most difficult rapids he went up are those named for the same -intelligent and ablutionary quadruped, _Procyon lotor_. Coon or Racoon -cr. was formerly known as Peterah cr. Wanyecha (now Elm) cr. falls in -on the left, slightly below Rum r. The latter is a notable stream, -being the main discharge of Mille Lacs, and as such having acquired a -long history. Carver called it Rum r.: "in the little tour I made -about the Falls [of St. A.], after traveling 14 m. by the side of the -Mississippi, I came to a river nearly 20 yards wide which ran from the -north east, called Rum River," he says, p. 45, ed. 1796. This was Nov. -19th, 1767, and the river has oftenest been so designated ever since. -But here is a place where the involuntary exploration which the Sioux -forced on Accault's party comes in, and the Hennepinian canonical -calendar is obtruded as usual, making the following trouble: - -"Eight leagues above St. Anthony of Padua's falls on the right, you -find the river of the Issati or Nadoussiou [Sioux], with a very narrow -mouth, which you can ascend to the north for about 70 leagues to Lake -Buade or of the Issati [Mille Lacs] where it rises. We gave this river -the name of St. Francis," Shea's Henp., tr. 1880, p. 201. In French -the name was R. de St. François: so Henp., map, 1683; on Franquelin's, -1688, it is "Riviere des Francois ou des Sioux," which turns it over -from the saint to the French nation, possibly less saintly on the -whole--that is, unless Franquelin intended to cover St. Francis de -Sales, St. Francis d'Assisi, and St. Francis de Paola, or unless _des_ -be a mis-engravement for _de S_. But Franquelin's earlier map, 1683 or -1684, has only R. des François, which is there connected with R. de la -Madelaine (St. Croix r.) by R. du Portage, which latter stands for -present Snake r., a branch of the St. Croix. De L'Isle's map, 1703, -avoids any such question by turning the river entirely over to the -Sioux; he letters R. de Mendeouacanion, _i. e._, Mdewakantonwan or -Gens du Lac. A question affecting the identification of St. Francis -with Rum came up in Carver's time, and is still mooted. Carver says, -_ed. cit._ p. 45: "Reached the River St. Francis, near 60 miles above -the Falls. To this river Father Hennipin gave the name," etc. He -reached it Nov. 21st, 1687. This is the stream next _above_ Rum r. on -the same side, now best known as Elk r. But Pike's map letters "Leaf -R. or S^t. Francis of Carver & Henepen"; Long has it S^t. Francis r.; -even Nicollet gives Wichaniwa or St. Francis. Prof. N. H. Winchell -remarks, Hist. Sketch Expl. and Surv. Minn., 4to, p. 15: "On modern -maps the name of St. Francis is applied to the next stream above the -Rum, and that may have been the river to which Hennepin referred in -his journal, since by a portage the route by it to lake Buade is much -less than the course by the Rum river, and the Indians may have -followed that route." I quite agree with my friend the professor that -the Sioux who took charge of Hennepin's "explorations," in spite of -all the saints on the calendar, may have brought him that way from -Mille Lacs to the Mississippi; but the question is not by what river -he came; the question is, Which river did he call R. de St. François -and map by this name? To me Hennepin makes it perfectly clear that he -meant Rum r. Thus he fixes it 8 leagues = 23-1/3 m. above the falls, -which is much closer to the actual position of Rum r. than such a -befogged geographer often comes; item, he makes his St. François r. -come from Mille Lacs, as Rum r. does and the other one does not (at -least not uninterruptedly); item, his alternative names, r. of the -Issati or Nadoussiou, point directly to Rum r.; item, for a clincher, -Hennepin's map letters R. de St. François precisely along the whole -course of Rum r. from the Mississippi to Lac Buade, _and traces the -other river too_, without any name. You seldom find a case clearer -than this seems to me to be. Carver was simply mistaken in identifying -Hennepin's St. Francis with the other river instead of with his own -Rum r.; and this malidentification on Carver's part seems to have -given later writers an unconscious bias in the wrong direction; Pike -makes the same mistake further on in this book. The strongest -counter-argument to my view is that I differ with Nicollet in this -case. It is always unsafe to disagree with that model of caution and -precision; but I must venture to do so in this instance. For the rest, -add to the synonyms of Rum r. the aboriginal name Iskode Wabo, as -given by Nicollet, and the variants of this phrase; also, R. de l'Eau -de Vie of Pike; also, Missayguani-sibi and Brandy r. of Beltrami. F. -_eau de vie_ is obviously the explanation of the "Audevies Cr." of -Lewis and Clark's map, 1814, though the stream thus designated looks -to my eye too low down for Rum r. The source of this river is noted -beyond, where the case of Mille Lacs comes up. - -[II-8] The curious word "brelaw," elsewhere "brelau," which we owe to -Pike, is a corruption of F. _blaireau_, badger. This, of course, -originally denoted the European badger, _Meles taxus_, but was easily -transferred to the generically and specifically different American -badger, _Taxidea americana_. Other forms of similar perversity are -braro, brarow, brairo, braroca, praro, prarow, etc. See L. and C., ed. -1893, p. 64. Pike's original editor of 1807 had _blaireau_, correctly, -but Pike himself seldom got any F. word or phrase exactly right. - -[II-9] Less than this, as Crow r. is not yet passed, though Pike is not -much short of that point. There is little to note: pass Cloquet or -Clouquet isl.; camp at head of Goodwin's isl. or foot of Dayton -rapids; a small body of water to the right called L. Itaska, not to be -confounded with L. Itasca! At or near the mouth of Crow r. Pike leaves -both Hennepin and Anoka cos.; he then has Wright on his left and -Sherburne on his right. Dayton, Hennepin Co., is at the mouth of Crow -r. The crossing there was called Slater's ferry. - -[II-10] What Pierre Rousseau called a "prairie mole" was the -pocket-gopher of this region, _Thomomys talpoides_. This was first -made known to science by Dr. John Richardson in his paper entitled -"Short Characters of a few Quadrupeds Procured on Capt. Franklin's -late Expedition," published in the Zoölogical Journal, III. No. 12, -Jan.-Apr. 1828, pp. 516-520. He named it _Cricetus talpoides_, taking -this specific name from its mole-like appearance, and afterwards -called it _Geomys talpoides_, in the Fauna Boreali-Americana, I. 1829, -p. 204. Among the peculiarities of the animal, and indeed of the whole -family to which it belongs, are the strictly subterranean habits, and -the possession of large cheek-pouches external to the mouth and lined -with fur inside: see Coues and Allen, Monographs N. A. Rodentia, 1877, -p. 623. The common mole of the United States, from which Pike saw that -this gopher was very different, is _Scalops aquaticus_, of the -mammalian order _Insectivora_ (not _Rodentia_). - -[II-11] To a position about halfway between Elk r., Sherburne Co., and -Monticello, Wright Co.--say Baker's ferry, at head of Dimick's or -Demick's isl., and compare note at date of Apr. 9th. On making Dayton -rapids Pike passed the mouth of Crow r., which falls in on the left -above the town and below Dayton isl. This river rises in Green l., -Kamdiyohi Co., and by various affluents elsewhere, flows about E. -through Meeker and Wright, and then turns N. E., separating the latter -from Hennepin Co. (This must not be confounded with Crow Wing r., much -higher up the Mississippi.) It was discovered by Carver Nov. 20th, -1766, and by him called Goose r. Beltrami chose Rook's r. Nicollet has -Karishon or Crow r. This river needed an ornithologist to keep from -mixing up those birds so! Besides the three bird-names, Beltrami -produced Poanagoan-sibi or Sioux r., as he says it was called by the -"Cypowais." Elk River, 41 m. from St. Paul by rail, pop. 1,500, is the -seat of Sherburne Co. It is situated immediately below the mouth of -Elk r. This is the stream charted by Pike with the legend "Leaf R. or -S^t. Francis of Carver & Henepen": see for this case note 7. Pike -also calls it R. des Feuilles. Allen had St. Francis or Parallel r. -Beltrami said Kapitotigaya-sibi or Double r. Nicollet's terms -Wichaniwa and St. Francis belong to the main (East) fork of Elk r., -now commonly called the St. Francis; he names the other fork Kabitawi -(which is the same word that Beltrami uses in another form). Above Elk -River is Otsego, Wright Co., with Orano's (Jameson and Wilson) isls. -below and Davis isl. above it. - -[II-12] To vicinity of Monticello, Wright Co. In the course of the hard -water stemmed to-day are Spring rapids and Battle rapids, each of -which Pike marks "Ripple" on his map; the former is first above -Dimick's isl.; the latter is above Brown's isl. and Houghton's flats; -and the name no doubt commemorates the Indian fight of which Pike -speaks. The rise represented by the hard water is about 25 feet, -bringing the Expedition up to 898 or 900 feet above sea-level. -Nicollet's Migadiwin cr. falls in on the left, just above Monticello; -this is now known as Otter cr. Boom isl. is just below the ferry at -Monticello. - -[II-13] To some obscure point about one-third of the way from Monticello -to Clear Water. It is past Lane's and Cedar isls., and above Cedar -rapids, which Pike marks "Ripple" on his map (the third such mark -above his Leaf r.), and below Silver cr.; but I cannot stick a pin in -the map, as there is no named place in the immediate vicinity; nearest -probably R. R. station Lund, Wright Co. - -[II-14] Vicinity of Clear Water r., a sizable stream which separates -Wright from Stearns Co.; Kawakomik or Clear Water r. of Nicollet; -Kawakonuk r. of Owen; Kawanibio-sibi of Beltrami; and qu. Little Lake -r. of Carver's map? The whole distance from Monticello to town of -Clear Water at the mouth of this river is only 19 m., and thence to -St. Cloud, 14 m. = 33 m. for which Pike allows 12 + 20 + 3 + 16½ = 51½ -m. This is over his average excess, and the case is complicated by the -position assigned for the wintering station of the persons named on -the 10th. Pike lays down Clear Water r., and his map legends, a little -_below_ this, "Wintering Grounds of M^r. Potier, 1797; & M^r. Dickson, -1805-1806." The names do not correspond exactly with the text, and as -the wintering ground of the text was not passed till the 10th, when -Pike was certainly above the Clear Water, this wintering ground is -simply legended too low on the map. Compare Apr. 7th, beyond, when -Pike reaches the post of Mr. Dickson and the other person, there -called Paulier, in one day's voyage from his stockade on Swan r. As -there explained, the post in question was only 4 m. below the head of -Pike's Beaver isls., thus in the vicinity of St. Augusta, while Pike's -station of the 8th was at or near Clear Water. To reach this town and -river Pike passes Bear isl., Smiler's rapids, and on his left two -small streams. The lower one of these is Silver cr., coming from a -small lake between Silver Creek Siding and a place called Hasty. The -upper one of these is Bend cr. of Nicollet (discharge of Fish l.), so -named from falling into what was a remarkable bend of the Mississippi, -now a cut-off with a large (Boynton's) island. This place is 3 m. -below Clear Water, in Sect. 6, T. 122, R. 26, 5th M. - -[II-15] St. Cloud, seat of Stearns Co.; population 8,000; East St. Cloud -opp.; bridges; railroads converging by five tracks; rapids of 30,000 -horse-power, dammed and utilized. This is a notable place, likely to -become more so. The whole descent from the upper part of the town of -Sauk Rapids to the lower part of St. Cloud, a distance of some 5 m., -is 24 feet; of which Sauk rapids proper fall 17 or 18 feet in the -course of a mile. Pike camps at the foot of these. "Grand Rapids" of -the above text are mapped by Pike as "Big Rapids," the term also used -by Lewis and Clark; they are Nicollet's Second rapids. When I last saw -the place it was not easy to discern the natural course of the river, -it was so jammed with logging-booms. The "more than 20 islands" which -Pike passed to-day are in part included in the cluster called the -Archipelago by Beltrami, now known as the Thousand isls., smallest and -most numerous in the expansion of the river just below St. Cloud and -above Mosquito rapids; the latter, not bad, are between a large island -on the right and a creek that makes in on the left (S. 36, T. 124, R. -28, 5th M.). A short distance below these islands, probably not far -from Mosquito rapids, and thus somewhere about opposite St. Augusta, -was the above-named wintering place. - -[II-16] The whole distance by river from St. Cloud to Pike rapids, where -he stops to build his winter-quarters, is only 33 m. He makes this -8 + 12½ + 29 + 17 + 5 = 71½! As there is no possible mistake about the -place we have brought him to, or about that where we shall drop him, -an error of over 100 per cent. is evident in the mileage of the -11th-15th. The text gives but one named point (his Clear r.) to -consider for the required adjustment; but there are seven definite -named rivers in this course and several rapids; so that we can check -him at every few miles, and only need to cut down his mileage a little -more than one-half. Camp of the 11th ("8" = 4 m.) is a little above the -mouth of Sauk r. On heading Sauk rapids, Pike passes the town of Sauk -Rapids, seat of Benton Co., 75 m. by rail from St. Paul. It is a -smaller place than St. Cloud, pop. 1,200, but enjoys the same 30,000 -horse-power of the 18 feet to the mile fall of the Miss. r. Sauk r. -falls in from the W., opposite the upper part of the town; Pike -elsewhere calls it R. aux Saukes, and maps it as Sack r.; so does -Long, though he calls the Indians Sakawes and Sakawis: Nicollet's map -has Osakis r.; other variants of the name are Sac, Sacque, Saque, -Sawk, Saukee, Sawkee, Osaukee, Osauki, etc. The most elaborate way of -spelling Sauk that I have found is Sassassaouacotton. The form Ozaukee -is adopted by Verwyst, Wis. Hist. Soc., XII. 1892, p. 396, where it is -said that this and Sauk are corrupted from _ozagig_, meaning those who -live at a river's mouth. - -[II-17] About 6 m., to a position near the mouth of Little Rock r., -above Watab rapids and the town of that name in Benton Co. Pike first -passes on his right, about a mile from camp, a small stream whose name -has not reached me (it empties in the S. W. ¼ of Sect. 15, T. 36, R. -31, 4th M.). In another mile he passes Little Sauk r., a stream like -its namesake, but small. This is called Watab r. by Nicollet, Owen, -and Brower, Wadub r. by Schoolcraft, Wattah r. by Allen. This little -river was formerly important as the most tangible part of the shadowy -Sioux-Chippewa boundary of 1825. Starting from the Chippewa r., the -line cut across most rivers, at odd places the savages no doubt -understood, but geographers never did. It crossed the St. Croix at -"Standing Cedars" below the falls, struck near the head of Coon cr., -crossed Rum r. at or near its principal forks, hit a "Point of Woods" -somewhere, crossed Leaf (Elk) r. low down, and reached the Mississippi -opp. the mouth of the Little Sauk, _which it followed up_, and then -went N. W., passed past Swan and Little Elk rivers to the watershed of -the Red River of the North, which it followed approx. N. to the Otter -Tail and Leech l. traverse. (See Allen's map.) The "narrow rocky -place" passed is Watab rapids, and the town of Watab is just above -these, on the creek to the right, 5 m. above Sauk Rapids. Sauk and -Watab are respectively the "2nd" and "3rd" rapids of Nicollet's map. -The word _watab_ means _spruce_; or, rather, as follows: "The small -roots of the spruce tree afford the _wattap_, with which the bark [of -birchen canoes] is sewed; ... Bark, some spare _wattap_, and gum, are -always carried in each canoe," Alex. Henry, Travels, 1761-66, N. Y., -8vo, 1809, p. 14. In this matter we also have the support of the -highest possible authority; for the Century Dictionary, representing -the acme of English scholarship, defines _watap_ or _watapeh_ as "the -long slender roots of the white spruce, _Picea alba_, which are used -by canoe-makers in northwestern North America for binding together the -strips of birch-bark." _Cf._ Baraga's Otchipwe Dict., 1880, Pt. 2, p. -404, _s. v._ _watab_. Pike charts Watab rapids; see his map, place -marked "Ripple," first above his "Little Sack R." This is where his -boat sprung a leak, and he did not get much further. - -[II-18] Say about 14 m., to a position between Platte r. and Spunk r. -Soon after decamping, Pike passed a river he does not mention above, -but which he elsewhere names Lake r., and maps conspicuously in -connection with a certain small sheet of water he names Elk l. These -are now known as Little Rock r. and Little Rock l. The stream is laid -down by Nicollet with the additional name of Pikwabic r. It falls into -a remarkable horseshoe bend of the river, which has not cut off an -island since the charts I use were drawn. Opposite this bend there is -a place called Brockway, in Stearns Co. Of Clear r. as above, and also -so charted by Pike, Lewis and Clark, and Allen, Pike elsewhere says -that it "is a beautiful little stream, of about 80 yards in width, and -heads in some swamps and small lakes on which the Sauteaux of Lower -Red Cedar Lake and Sandy Lake frequently come to hunt." It is -Pekushino r. of Nicollet, Bekozino-sibi and Pines Tail r. of Beltrami, -now commonly called Platte r., and occasionally Flat r., as on an 1850 -map of Minnesota before me; it heads in the region about Mille Lacs. -At the place where the railroad crosses Platte or Clear r. is -Royalton, in Bellevue township, Morrison Co. One-third of a mile below -its mouth is the line between Stearns and Morrison cos., on first -section-line above town-line 126-7. One of the two rivers here noted -is Cold r. of Carver, 1767; but I am uncertain which one. McNeal's -ferry over the Mississippi is about a mile below the mouth of the -Platte. - -[II-19] Making the requisite adjustment of this, we set Pike down in the -N. E. ¼ of Sect. 29, T. 128, R. 29, 5th M.; this will give us 3 m. to -fill the bill of the "five" to-morrow. To-day's itinerary furnishes -some nice points which we must determine with precision--not for their -intrinsic importance, but for their significance in connection with -Pike's winter-quarters. The matter must be attended to here, though -the text has not a word about it. But Pike elsewhere speaks of three -creeks along here, above his Clear r.=Platte, and below his Pine -cr.=Swan r., near which he builds his stockade. Pike's map has four, -on the left, beginning above Clear r.: (1) Wolf cr.; (2) a creek; (3) -Buffalo cr.; (4) Rocky cr.--all names of his own, none used now. -Proceeding up from Platte=Clear r., we have on the left in succession: -(1) Spunk r., whose mouth is in the S. E. ¼ of Sect. 22, T. 127, R. -29, 5th M. This is the Wolf cr. of Pike's, item of Lewis and Clark's -map, 1814; mapped, no name, Allen; Zakatagana-sibi of Beltrami; -Sagatagon or Spunk r. of Nicollet; Spunk brook of various maps. The -native name which we have translated means some sort of touchwood or -punk, which may be more plentiful hereabouts than elsewhere, or of -better quality. (2) A rivulet for which I can find no name, not even -on the local maps, and which is too insignificant to appear at all on -most maps; Pike's traces it without name. I will call it Maple brook, -because it falls in behind Maple isl., in Sect. 17 of the T., R., and -M. last said. Maple isl. is sizable, and locally well known; either -this or the little round one close by is probably Beltrami's "Island -of the Sun." (3) Two Rivers, or Two r., or Twin r., as the next stream -is called, which empties about the center of Sect. 8 of the same T., -R., and M., hardly a mile above Maple brook. This is the one Pike maps -by the name of Buffalo cr.; it is also Buffaloe cr. of Lewis and -Clark's map; and the Kanizotygoga of Beltrami. This is a sizable -stream, giving name to Two Rivers Township, and does not fall in -behind any island. (4) Little Two Rivers, or Two Rivers brook, which -falls in about half a mile higher up, in the same Section, behind an -island. (5) A nameless and utterly insignificant brook, which falls in -at McDougal's eddy, behind an island, in the S. E. ¼ of Sect. 5 of the -same T., R., and M. I find it correctly laid down on a Morrison Co. -map, on a scale of 2 inches to the mile; but it does not appear on the -inch-to-mile charts I mostly follow. (6) Hay cr., which most maps run -into Little Two Rivers, but which is quite distinct, with the brook -(5) intervening. Hay cr. comes southward along the E. border of Swan -River township, turns S. E. across Sect. 31 of T. 128, R. 29, thence -enters Sect. 5 of T. 127, R. 29, and falls into the Mississippi behind -the three-cornered isl. which there lies opp. some rapids next above -McDougal's eddy. The only question seems to be, whether Pike's Rocky -cr. is Little Two Rivers or Hay cr.; but after pretty close scrutiny -of the country thereabouts, I incline to decide in favor of Little Two -Rivers, and could give various reasons for this identification. Pike -maps four rapids, in quick succession, above his Rocky cr. Two of -these I suppose to be those now known as Blanchard's and McDougal's, -both passed on the 14th; a third is surmounted on the 15th, but the -fourth finishes Pike's boat-voyage: see next note. - -[II-20] Three miles, to camp at the foot of Knife or Pike rapids, W. -side of the Mississippi, about the S. border of Sect. 7, T. 128, R. -29, 5th M. These are the 4th or Knife rapids of Nicollet, apparently -so called from the narrowness of the two channels into which the river -is divided for most of their extent by an island, which is what Pike's -text above means by the "two narrow shoots." The designation of Pike -rapids is not recent; it occurs on the Allen map pub. 1834, and no -doubt this antedates the time that the next creek above Swan r. was -named Pike cr., and the township next above Swan River township was -named Pike Creek township. The ascent is 10 or 11 feet to the mouth of -Swan r.; and this is 4 m. below the city of Little Falls. Little Falls -is given as 115 m. by the river from Minneapolis, and as 105 m. by -rail from St. Paul (N. P. R. R.). We know where Pike sleeps to-night -within a few rods, and shall be able to locate his stockade with a -"probable error" of no yards, feet, or inches. - -[II-21] "Lieu^t. Pikes, Block House or Post, for the Winter 1805-1806" -is legended on the pub. map, and marked by a zigzag line snug up under -his Pine cr. (now Swan r.). The orig. MS. map, now on file in the -Engineer Office of the War Dept., is large enough to show the exact -spot, on which is delineated a stockade 36 feet square, with a -blockhouse on the N. W. and another on the S. E. corner of the -structure. Notwithstanding such precise indicia, the site has been -vaguely stated by various authors, and even shifted down to Two Rivers -by so careful and usually correct a writer as my friend the Hon. J. V. -Brower, who is clearly in error in stating that "the south branch of -Two Rivers was named Pine creek, and the other Second creek," Minn. -Hist. Coll., VII., Mississippi R. and its Source, 8vo., Minneapolis, -1893, p. 126. This is simply an _obiter dictum_, by inadvertence. I -had satisfied myself of the true site within a few rods, when I first -learned from Prof. N. H. Winchell, State Geologist of Minnesota, that -traces of the building had been discovered by Judge Nathan Richardson, -Mayor of Little Falls, Minn. On writing to this gentleman, I received -a prompt reply, as follows: - - LITTLE FALLS, MINN., Feb. 24th, 1894. - - _Elliott Coues, Esq., Washington, D. C._ - - MY DEAR SIR: Yours of the 21st inst. is received making - inquiry about my discovering the location of a fort built - by Zebulon M. Pike in the fall of 1805. The location is on - the West bank of the Mississippi River on Government - Subdivision described as Lot No. 1, Sec. No. 7, in Township - No. 128 North, of Range No. 29 West, of the 5th Principal - Meridian, near the S. E. corner of said Lot No. 1, and near - 80 rods south from the mouth of Swan river and four miles - south of this city. I settled at this place in 1855. I - wrote a history of this county in 1876. Then in 1880 I - revised it. Before writing the revision in 1880 I looked - over the books in our State Historical Society, where I - found an account of Pike's Expedition up into this region - of country that year. His description of the location was - so plain and explicit that I had no trouble in finding it. - At that time there were no logs or timber left. The place - was plainly marked by a pile of stone, about the size of an - ordinary haycock, of which the chimney or fire-place was - built. The fort was built of logs. The bottom layer was - imbedded about one-half their size into the ground when - built. The groove in the earth showed very plain when I - first visited the place. As near as I could judge the - building was 40 feet square. Built just on the brink of a - slight elevation, as described by Mr. Pike in his - narrative. Afterward in speaking about the location of - Pike's Fort to an old settler, Samuel Lee, now residing at - Long Prairie in this State, he told me that he had been at - the place many years before, and when he was first at the - place the bottom tier of logs were still there. I visited - the spot two years ago for the purpose of getting one of - the stones that were used to build the fire-place, and took - one that will weigh about 75 pounds, which I am keeping as - a relic. The pile of stone is getting scattered about; the - ground has never been cleared and broken up, but is used as - a pasture. Unless something durable is put up soon to mark - the location all trace of it will be obliterated. This - country commenced to settle with farmers in 1850, and has - become quite well settled up. I will say before closing - that the rapids at the foot of which he built the fort bear - the name of Pike rapids, so named in honor of him. I will - send you a copy of our extra paper [Daily Transcript, of - Little Falls], issued the 1st of January. If I have omitted - anything that you may wish to know write me again. - - Yours very respectfully, - [Signed] N. RICHARDSON. - -Judge Richardson is entitled to the credit of recovering and making -known the spot in modern times. The Hist. Up. Miss. Vall., pub. -Minneap. 1881, treating Morrison Co. in Chap. cxxxviii, has on p. 586 -a short notice of the location, presumably upon Judge Richardson's -data, as the publishers' preface makes general acknowledgments of -indebtedness to him. In Oct., 1886, the place was visited by Mr. T. H. -Lewis, at the instance of Mr. A. J. Hill of St. Paul, and through the -friendly attentions of the latter I am put in possession of extracts -and tracings from Mr. Lewis' notebook, made on the spot at the date -said, when he found the extant remains. Mr. Lewis identified the site -upon his own observations, not being at the time informed of the -earlier discovery. So interesting a spot should be permanently marked -before all traces of it are obliterated, and I hope Judge Richardson -will interest himself to see that this is done. It need not be an -expensive or elaborate monument; probably the stones of the old -chimney and fire-place, now scattered about, would answer the purpose -if they were solidly piled up. - -POSTSCRIPT.--_Little Falls, Minn._, _Sept._ 8th, 1894.--I have this -day visited the spot in person, accompanied by Judge Richardson and -Mrs. Coues. We have piled up the rocks in a conspicuous heap. I do not -recognize any trace of the original woodwork, or of the ground-plan of -the structure, except the place of the chimney; but the site is -unquestionable. To reach it, you go down the main road from Little -Falls, about 4 m. along the W. side of the Miss. r., crossing Pike cr. -and next Swan r.; a few rods beyond the latter, turn to the left into -Simon Kurtzman's cornfield, through bars, and keep on due E. to the -river. You will see the cairn we have made in the following position: -Sect. 7, T. 128, R. 29, 5th M., in S. E. corner of Lot No. 1, 80 rods -E. of Simon Kurtzman's house, about 80 rods S. S. E. of the mouth of -Swan r., near the E. border of the cornfield, 30 paces back from the -brink of the Mississippi, 50 yards S. by E. of a lone pine tree 50 -feet high, on a flat piece of high ground in a copse of scattered -scrub oaks, overgrown with brush and weeds. Letter on the subject over -my signature in Little Falls Daily Transcript, Sept. 10, 1894, urging -the erection of a monument. - -[II-22] Or windshake--not that the canoe foundered in the wind, but that -there was a flaw in the wood of which it was built, such unsoundness -of timber being called a windshock or windshake. - -[II-23] For Dickson's trading-house of 1805-6 see note beyond, date of -Apr. 7th. Dickson's name frequently recurs in Pike, but I think never -once in full. Robert Dickson was an Englishman who began to trade with -the Sioux as early as 1790, and acquired great renown in the early -history of the country. The following occurs in Minn. Hist. Coll., I. -2d ed. 1872, p. 390: "Five years after Pike's visit he espoused the -British cause, and took a prominent part in encouraging the western -tribes in hostility against the Americans. Yet he is said to have been -very humane to American prisoners, rescuing many from the Indians, and -restraining the latter from barbarities and cold-blooded massacres. -After the war Dickson, some accounts say, did not resume trade with -the Sioux; but he did at least live at Lake Travers as late as 1817, -and was charged with alienating the Sioux from the United States, in -complicity with Lord Selkirk, who was there establishing his colony on -Red river. He was soon after arrested near what is now St. Paul, and -taken to St. Louis. He was probably soon released, however, and found -his way back to Queenstown in Canada, where he died. Dickson had a -Sioux wife and four half-breed children. One of his grandchildren was -wife of Joseph Laframboise, a well-known trader at Lac Qui Parle." To -this may be added that one of Col. Robert Dickson's half-breed sons -was William Dickson, whose name appears here and there in Minnesota -annals. - -[II-24] There is no such French word as "killeur," which Pike elsewhere -renders "killieu," and which appears in the text of 1807 as "killien" -and "killein." On consulting the F. text, I. p. 95, I find that the -editor says, "Plutôt _tueur rouge_, car le mot killeur n'est pas -françois; c'est sans doute un barbarisme échappé à M. Pike." The son -of this chief Pike calls "Fils de Killeur Rouge": see Mar. 5th and -8th, 1806, beyond. There is a Canadian French word _pilleur_, -pillager, and the Leech Lake Chippewas were known as Pilleurs or -Pillagers; but this Killeur was a Sioux chief of the Gens des Feuilles -or Leaf Indians, now called Wahpetonwans: see L. and C., ed. 1893, p. -100. Pike translates Killeur by "Eagle"; and this clew to the meaning -of the word is carried on by Beltrami, II. p. 207, who has a chief -called "Ki-han or Red Quilliou"; _ibid._, p. 224, he speaks of "a bird -which the Canadians call _killiou_, and the Indians Wamendi-hi"; -_ibid._, p. 307, he says "a plume of _killow_," making an English word -of it. Forsyth has "the killiew (thus named from a species of eagle)," -in Minn. Hist. Col., III. 1874, p. 154. So _killeur_, etc., is simply -a French way of spelling a certain Indian name of the eagle, whose -feathers are used for ornament. I once noted this word in the form -_khoya_. Riggs' Dak. Dict., 1852, has "_Hu-yá_, _n._, the common -eagle" (the dotted _h_ a deep surd guttural). - -[II-25] Yanktons and Sissetons: see L. and C., ed. 1893, pp. 94, 100. - -[II-26] More probably Chien Blanc, or White Dog--unless we could go so -far as to suppose he was called by the less polite and less -appropriate name of Chienne Blanche. - -[II-27] About opp. the mouth of Pine cr. or Swan r., ½ m. above head of -Roberts' isl., and on or near the present site of Gregory, Morrison -Co. This place is marked as Aitkin's ferry, trading-post, and hotel, -on a Minnesota map, pub. Phila., Cowperthwait, 1850; it is about the -middle of the southwesternmost section of Little Falls township -(Township 40, Range 32, 4th mer.), say 3 m. below the middle of the -city of Little Falls. The head of Pike rapids is 1,071 or 1,072 feet -above sea-level. Swan r. bends up a little to fall into the Miss. r., -so that its mouth is slightly over the S. border of Sect. 6, Township -128, Range 29, 5th mer. There is a flour mill on its S. side, at the -bend, half a mile or less from its mouth. Ledoux P. O. is on this -stream, a few miles up, in Swan River township, which lies between -North Prairie township and Pike Creek township; Swan r. runs over the -N. border of it a mile W. of the Mississippi. By whom Pike's Pine cr. -was first called Swan r. I do not know, unless it was Nicollet; it is -Wabizio-sibi of Beltrami, Wabezi or Swan r. of Nicollet, 1836, Swan r. -of Owen and later writers; but Lieut. Allen has it Elk r. on his map, -by error. - -[II-28] Less than this, to camp on left or E. bank of the Mississippi, -in the present city of Little Falls, Morrison Co., probably about the -place where is the lower bridge, a few blocks from the Buckman hotel. -Painted Rock rapids is now Little falls. A high, small island at the -falls divides the river in two channels; it is Rock isl. of Nicollet, -now called Mill isl.; some mills are there, and there is the site of -the present dam, immediately below the lower bridge. Little Falls is a -flourishing place, as towns with a water-power of 35,000 horses may -easily be; pop. now or lately 3,000; dam built 1887-8, said to have -cost $250,000; two bridges span the river, the upper one for the N. P. -R. R., near the large sawmill which stands on the W. bank; chief -industry, milling flour and logs; city incorporated 1889; N. -Richardson, mayor for five years: see Little Falls Daily Transcript, -Industrial ed., Jan. 1st, 1894, large folio, pp. 28, maps and views, -price 5c. The Little falls--cataract, not town--are so called by Pike -elsewhere in this work; he also says that "the place is called by the -French Le Shute de la Roche Peinture," by which we may understand La -Chute de la Roche Peinte; his map legends "Painted Rock or Little -Falls." Beltrami names the falls Great Rock and Kekebicaugé. As to the -"5 miles" of to-day's journey, we may note that the distance is less -now than it used to be by the channel, because there was a bend of the -river to the E. which is now straightened out. This bend appears on -maps of 20 years ago; it is now city ground, and the march of -improvement has effected various other changes in the course of the -river. When about a mile from this morning's camp, Pike passed a place -where the river was fordable, and may be so still; here was the site -of Swan River P. O., on the E. bank, in Little Falls township. When a -mile further on, he passed the mouth of a creek from the W. which he -calls 2nd cr. (on the map "2^d Cr."), and which others have rendered -Second cr., though Nicollet and Owen both have it Little Fall cr.; it -is now known as Pike cr., and gives name to Pike Creek township. It -falls into the Mississippi at the middle of the E. border of Sect. 25, -Township 129, Range 30, 5th mer., through the 6th one of the 16 -outlots of O. O. Searles, slightly beyond present city limits. - -[II-29] To a position at the head of Little Elk rapids, a short distance -above the mouth of Little Elk r. This is a sizable stream which comes -from the W. through Parker and Randall townships to the S. W. corner -of Green Prairie township, touches the N. E. corner of Pike creek -township, and then curves a couple of miles to the Mississippi through -Sects. 6 and 5, T. 129, R. 29, 5th M. Pike elsewhere notes it with -particularity by the name of Elk r. Beltrami says Moska or Mosko and -Doe or Bitch r. This last name is a mistaken rendering of R. la Biche -or Elk r. of the French--he makes the same singular blunder in the -case of Lake Itasca, which he calls Doe or Bitch l., after the French -Lac la Biche. The river is the Omoshkos or Elk r. of Nicollet and -Owen. It is marked Little Fork cr. on the Minn. map of 1850; and -Allen's map makes it Swan r., by an erroneous transposition of names; -see note 27 p. 122. - -[II-30] From Little Falls to Crow Wing is only 26 m. by the river. Pike -does not reach Crow Wing till the 21st, and his party does not get up -till the 23d or 24th. Exactly what distance he makes it cannot be -said, as mileage is missing some days. He appears to have thought it -some 50 or 60 m. Thus the itinerary does not afford data for fixing -camps with precision, and hence we can only check him approximately -from day to day. The sledge-party does not average 3 m. a day, but -Pike himself seems to skirmish about for many more miles--perhaps the -excessive mileages represent his own activities, not the actual -advance of the Expedition. The average course is due N. On the 12th -Conradi shoal and Belle Prairie were passed, to camp in the vicinity -of Fletcher cr. Belle Prairie is a comparatively old settlement on the -E. bank, founded by Frederick Ayer, a missionary, in 1848; pop. 800. -This is only 4½ m. by rail from Little Falls. The town is directly -opposite the shoals. These are the Fifth rapid of Nicollet. A small -creek comes in opposite them from the W., in Green Prairie township. -Fletcher cr. is mapped by Nicollet without name; it is McKinney's r. -on the 1850 map of Minn. It falls in from the E. through Sect. 1, T. -41, R. 32, 4th M. - -[II-31] In the vicinity of Topeka, a town and station on the N. P. R. -R., on the E. bank of the river. - -[II-32] Camp of the 14th, 15th, and 16th seems to have been on the W. -bank of the river, at the head of Olmsted's bar, and was very likely -opp. the point of land in Sect. 15, T. 42, R. 32, 4th M., where one -Baker located his trading-house in 1831. It is formally named Pine -camp when it is passed on the way down, Mar. 4th, 1806: see that date. -Olmsted's bar is the Sixth rapid of Nicollet, at a place where the -river expands and contains a cluster of small islands, called The -Sirens by Beltrami, II. p. 466. - -[II-33] This cache was in the vicinity of present Fort Ripley. The town -now so called is on the E. side; railroad; pop. 500. Old Fort Ripley -itself is on the W. side, a mile off; some of the buildings still -stand. This post, or another in the same place, was once called Fort -Gaines; Prairie Percée of the F. intersected the river a little below. -The fort is in the N. E. ¼ of Sect. 7, T. 131, R. 29, 5th M., about a -half mile below the mouth of Nokasippi r., which falls in from the E. -through Sect. 27, T. 43, R. 32, 4th M. This is a considerable stream: -Nokasippi and Noka Sipi of Schoolcraft; Nokay r. of Nicollet and of -Owen; Nokasele on one of my maps, Nankesele and Nankele on others; -Woco-sibi of Beltrami's text, II. p. 466, Wokeosiby and Prophet r. on -his map. This hint that the name is a personal one is correct. Noka -was a Chippewa, the grandfather of White Fisher or Waubojeeg. "It is -from this old warrior and stalwart hunter, who fearlessly passed his -summers on the string of lakes which form the head of the No-ka river, -which empties into the Mississippi nearly opposite present site of -Fort Ripley, that the name of this stream is derived," says W. W. -Warren, Minn. Hist. Coll., V. 1885, p. 266. It is mapped by Pike and -mentioned by him beyond at date of Mar. 3d, 1806; but he has no name -for it. Allen's map gives it as Long r. But the earliest name of the -stream I can discover is on Lewis and Clark's map, pub. 1814, where it -is called Scrub Oak r., no doubt from the prairie above it, to which -Pike gave that name. On reaching ownline 42-3, Pike leaves Morrison -for Crow Wing Co., on the right, but still has the former on his left, -up to Crow Wing r. - -[II-34] To some point probably more than halfway between the Nokasippi -and Crow Wing rivers, perhaps not far from the station or siding -Albion (St. Paul Div. of N. P. R. R.). It is beyond Lenox, and a -little above that creek for which I find no name, but which falls in -from the W. through Sect. 24, T. 132, R. 30, 5th M. - -[II-35] To a position immediately below the mouth of the Crow Wing r. - -[II-36] Rivière à l'Aile de Corbeau of the F., usually shortened into R. -de Corbeau, though Eng. Crow Wing r. reflects the full name. The large -island at its mouth was called Isle or Île de Corbeau, and I suspect -that the similarity of _aile_ and _isle_ or _île_ may be concerned in -this nomenclature. The river sometimes appears as Crow r., rendering -the shorter F. form; in such instance it must not be confounded with -Crow r. much lower down the Mississippi: see note 11, p. 97. Crow -Wing also appears as Crow-wing, and I have found both Cow-wing and -Crowing r. in Schoolcraft. Raven r. is another name; Pike sometimes -uses this. Beltrami has Raven's Plume r. and Crow Feather r. Nicollet -calls it Kagiwan r. This is the largest branch of the Mississippi -above Little Falls. The unnumbered affluents which unite to compose -the main stream head in lakes and marshes of Hubbard, Becker, Otter -Tail, Wadena, and Todd cos. Having received most of its tributaries, -and coursed through Wadena, the river for a short distance separates -Todd from Cass Co., and then runs between Cass and Morrison to empty -opp. the town of Crow Wing. Crow Wing r. was important as a means of -communication between the Mississippi and Red River of the North. It -was navigated up to the mouth of R. des Feuilles, now Leaf r., in the -S. part of Wadena Co.; thence the route was up Leaf r., and by portage -into Otter Tail l., one of the principal sources of Red r. waters. -Crow Wing r. was also a route to Leech l. Schoolcraft made the trip -this way from Leech l. to the Miss. r. in July, 1832; his map, pub. -1834, letters some of the main branches Kioshk r., Longprairie or -Warwater r., and Leaf r. The chain of lakes on this route are in his -nomenclature as follows, from below upward: 1. Kaichibo Sagitowa; 2. -Johnston's; 3. Allen's; 4. Longrice (Long Rice); 5. Summit; 6. Vieux -Desert; 7. Ossowa; 8. Plé; 9. Birth; 10. Little Vermillion; 11. -Kaginogumag, source of the river. Four small ones thence to Leech l. -are called Lake of the Island, Lake of the Mountain, Little Long l., -and Warpool l. The branch which Schoolcraft calls Kíosh is Nicollet's -Gayashk r., now called Gull r.; a lake on it has the same name, and -one higher up is Lake Sibley of Nicollet. Nicollet says that he -contracted Gayashk from Chip. Kagayashkensikang, "the place where -there are little gulls [terns]," Rep. 1843, p. 54. Gull r. comes from -the N., approx. parallel with the Mississippi, and falls into Crow -Wing r. only some 3 or 4 m. above its mouth; about the same distance -up it is crossed by the N. P. R. R., at or near Gull River station -(between Baxter and Sylvan Lake stations). - -[II-37] This seems to bring the whole party up to Crow Wing isl., opp. -old town of Crow Wing. Pike says himself that he could scarcely make -his notes intelligible, but we certainly know where he is to-day, and -have probably checked him from Little Falls with all the accuracy the -case admits. The town was mainly in Sect. 24, T. 44, R. 32, 4th M., -but settlements in 1857 were in Sect. 23; pop. in 1866, 600; Brainerd -killed the place about 1870: see Harper's Mag., XIX. 1859, p. 47. -Thos. Cowperthwait's map of Minn., Phila., 1850, letters "Morrison's" -on the town site. - -[II-38] "Hard W." is a misprint for N., the general course of the river -as you ascend, for many miles, till the Crow Wing is reached; after -this the Mississippi bears N. E.; and as the Crow Wing comes in from -the W., and is very large, their confluence is, as it were, the forks -of the Mississippi. - -[II-39] The whole way by river from Crow Wing to Pine r. (the next place -where we can certainly check Pike), is only 34 m. He makes it 10½ + 3 -+ 3 + 10 + 12 + 21 + 12 = 71½ m., with something over for morning of -Dec. 31st. Hence we have to cut him down about half. His "10½" m. -takes him about 6 m. toward Brainerd, with nothing to note on the way, -excepting a small creek on the left hand, in Sect. 26, T. 133, R. 29, -5th M. From Crow Wing to Brainerd is 11¼ m. by the river; Crow Wing -Co. continues on the right; on the left is Cass Co., according to such -a presumably authoritative map as that of the G. L. O., 1893; but in -fact Crow Wing Co. also extends on the left-hand side of the -Mississippi from a point about 1½ m. above the mouth of Crow Wing r. -upward for many miles, its W. border being along the middle line of R. -29. - -[II-40] To Brainerd, Crow Wing Co., called City of the Pines, now easily -first in this part of the State; pop. 10,000; junction of St. Paul -div. with main N. P. R. R., 136 m. from St. Paul by rail, 114 from -Duluth; recent utilization of the fall of the river furnishing perhaps -20,000 horse-power; water-works, electric lights, etc. It is a center -of the lumber interests, and a focus of roads from every direction; -the river is bridged, and the surplus population forms West Brainerd. -Brainerd was laid out by the railroad in 1870, and has no earlier -history. - -[II-41] Beyond Rice r. or cr., Nagajika cr. of Nicollet, which falls in -on the right, in Sect. 18, T. 45, R. 30, 4th M., about 3 m. above -Brainerd, and is to be distinguished from another of the same name -higher up on the same side; also, past French rapids, the Seventh of -Nicollet, which were Pike's carrying-places to-day. Above these he -found the river frozen solid. - -[II-42] Vicinity of Sand cr., from the right. This is mapped by -Nicollet, but without name. It falls in through Sect. 27, T. 46, R. -30, 4th M.; directly opposite its mouth is a smaller creek, from the -left. - -[II-43] To a position at or near the stream called White Bear-skin r. by -the geologist D. Norwood, 1847, being the discharge of Duck l. and -Swamp l., two of the largest of the numerous small lakes that lie -close along this course of the river. They are close together; each is -about 2 m. long and at one point only a mile or so to the left of the -river. Lake Taliaferro of Nicollet is on this connection, but further -off. Pike is fairly within the great lacustrine region of Minnesota, -where there are more lakes than have ever been counted. Half Moon l. -is a little one, about half a mile below the discharge of Duck and -Swamp lakes. The most notable point Pike passes to-day is the mouth of -Rabbit r., on the right. This is a considerable stream discharging -from a set of lakes (one at least of which has the same name), at the -junction of Sects. 13 and 24, T. 46, R. 30, 4th M., at or near the -foot of Island rapids. A smaller creek, also from the right, empties -below, in Sect. 24. Higher up are some rapids called Big Eddy. - -[II-44] Nearly to the mouth of Pine r. (not to be confounded with Pike's -Pine _cr._, now Swan r.): see next note. The new species of pine -"called the French sap pine," is the balsam-fir, _Abies balsamea_. -Pike meant to say "called by the French _sapin_." The text of 1807, p. -31, has "Sappine." - -[II-45] Present name of the largest stream in the northern portion of -Crow Wing Co., falling in from the N. in the S. W. ¼ of Sect. 25, T. -136, R. 27, 5th M., at a sharp bend the Mississippi here makes. Pine -r. has been so called by pretty nearly all writers since Pike's time; -but Beltrami has it Singuoako or Pines r. It is connected directly, or -indirectly, with an immense number of small lakes, not all of which -have ever been counted, and still fewer named. Two of the largest are -called Whitefish and Pelican. This whole system of waters lies to the -N. and W. of the Mississippi, S. of Leech lake, and on Pike's left as -he ascends. It offered a means of communication with Leech lake much -more direct than the course of the Mississippi itself; this was taken -by Pike on his return journey, and the river is consequently to be -particularly noted in that connection: see under dates of Feb. -19th-24th, beyond. - -[II-46] Curly Head does not appear in Pike's tabular exhibit of Chippewa -chiefs, and we are left without his native name, or any fair -identification; but Hon. W. W. Warren supplies the requisite data, -Minn. Hist. Coll., V. 1885, p. 47, p. 348 _seq._, p. 366; see also -_ibid._ p. 469 _seq._ and p. 495. The name of the old civil and -military chief Babesigaundibay is inseparably linked with the history -of his tribe. He belonged to the Businause family, or Crane totem, and -ruled for many years over the Chippewas of the Mississippi r., in the -vicinity of Gayashk or Gull l., eventually becoming the third man in -importance in the councils of his nation, sharing honors with Broken -Tooth of Sandy l. and Flat Mouth of Leech l. His people increased in -numbers, held the Crow Wing region against all enemies, and in 1852 -numbered about 600. Curly Head was respected and beloved; "he was a -father to his people; they looked on him as children do to a parent; -and his lightest wish was immediately performed. His lodge was ever -full of meat, to which the hungry and destitute were ever welcome. The -traders vied with one another who should treat him best, and the -presents which he received at their hands he always distributed to his -people without reserve." This estimable man died on his way back from -the grand conference held at Prairie du Chien by Governors William -Clark and Lewis Cass, Aug. 19th, 1825. His signature to this treaty, -as printed in one of the copies before me, is "Babaseekeendase, -Curling Hair." I elsewhere find Babikesundeba. Curly Head died -childless; on his death-bed he called two of his pipe-bearers and -formally constituted them his successors. These were brothers; one was -Songukumigor, Strong Ground, and the other Pugonakeshig, or Hole in -the Day I. The latter exerted great influence for about a quarter of a -century, killed 36 people, and was killed by being bounced out of a -cart while drunk, near Platte r., Benton Co., Minn., early in 1847. - -[II-47] No mileage from Dec. 31st, 1805, to Jan. 3d, 1806: so we must -check Pike by other data. From Pine r. to town of Aitkin, Aitkin Co., -is 32½ m. by river; this is very tortuous; air-line distance between -these points, 16¼ m., or just one-half of the river-miles. At 12 of -these direct miles' distance above Pine r. and 4¼ below Aitkin is our -most important datum-point, viz., mouth of Lower Red Cedar r. This is -the discharge of Lower Red Cedar l., a comparatively large body of -water 6 m. to the right (nearly S. from the mouth of L. R. C. r.). On -the shore of L. R. C. l., half a mile E. S. E. of the place where the -river issues from it, was the post of the N. W. Co., whence the party -that met Pike on the 2d came to see what was up, and to which Pike -repairs as Mr. Grant's guest on the 3d. While it is true that these -facts do not fix the three camps with all desirable precision, they -enable us to carry Pike on by "rule of thumb" in an intelligible -manner. I propose, therefore, to set him one-third of the way from -Pine r. to Lower Red Cedar r. on the 31st of Dec.--say opp. Rabbit l.; -two-thirds of this way on the 1st of Jan.--some point between Dean cr. -and Hay cr., both of which fall in on the left (probably a mile above -Dean cr.--see Feb. 24th, beyond); at mouth of Lower Red Cedar r., Jan. -2d; at Aitkin Jan. 3d--to reach which Little Willow r., flowing S. -from Waukenabo and Esquagamau lakes, is passed. These stages cannot in -any event be far out of the way; and to so make them brings up all the -points worth noting between Pine r. and Aitkin in orderly sequence. -The principal ones are the lake and the town. The lake has been well -known since the days of the old French régime; its relations with -Mille Lacs are intimate, and it was thus of consequence in connection -with old canoe-routes; it was for many years also the situation of -important trading-posts. It was le _Bas_ Lac aux Cèdres Rouges of the -French, _Lower_ Red Cedar l., in distinction from another one of -similar name, now Cass l. The distinction is to be sedulously borne in -mind, especially as Pike most often ignores it formally, and -repeatedly speaks of "Red Cedar" or "Cedar" l. indifferently, meaning -the present one when he is hereabouts, and meaning Cass l. when he is -thereabouts; the name is also now commonly clipped down to Cedar l. -and Cedar r. or cr., meaning this one, in modern geographies and -guide-books. Lower Red Cedar l. is large, with perhaps 50 m. of -shore-line altogether; it bears from Aitkin in the direction of -Brainerd; some of its relations are with smaller bodies of water known -as Crystal l., Mud l., Spirit l., Hanging Kettle l., Pine l., Farm -Island l., and Sesabagomag l. Cedar Lake station is about 5 m. W. of -Aitkin, N. P. R. R. Aitkin is per schedule by rail 27 m. from -Brainerd, 87 m. from Duluth; population 1,000; for persons named -Aitkin (not Aiken or Aitken), see that word in the Index. The present -town is on the right hand going up, left or S. side of the -Mississippi, at the mouth of Mud or Muddy r. (Ripple cr.), a -considerable stream, connected with a system of small lakes. It falls -into the Mississippi in Sect. 1, T. 47, R. 27, 4th M.; and in this -same section is the mouth of a stream which Owen called Sesabagomag -r., but which I find given as Missagony r. on late maps. Nicollet -charted it, with no name. Below the mouth of Lower Red Cedar r. Pike -goes from Crow Wing into Aitkin Co. He had passed the county line Jan. -3d. - -[II-48] "Point" as a measure of distance is not a well-known term, and I -am not sure of what it means. There is some internal evidence in Pike -that one of his "points" was from -1/8 to ¼ to ½ m., according to the -nature of the ground and the degree of "that tired feeling" which is -liable to overcome the most pushing wayfarer. I imagine "point" to -correspond to the _pause_ or _pose_ of the voyageurs. In their -language a _piece_ was a package of any goods, made up to weigh from -50 to 100 lbs., supposed to weigh about 90 on an average, for -convenience of transportation over portages. Such a pack would be -slung on the shoulders by the _fillet_ or forehead strap; and the -voyageur would start off at a dog-trot and drop it when he got tired. -This stop or rest was the _pose_; the Chip. name was _opuggiddiwanan_, -lit. the place of putting down the pack. Pike had to the last degree -the first qualification of a traveler--"go"; people who lack plenty of -that should stay at home. That he was a prudent or judicious traveler -can hardly be said; he must have been a terrible fellow to push, -merciless on his men, and especially on himself. He took all the -chances _per aspera_, when some of the roughest things might have been -smoothed or avoided had his foresight been as good as his hindsight. -He blew up things with gunpowder once, and it is a wonder he was not -blown up on the 4th, instead of being only burnt out. He missed very -few of the accidents that the spirits of fire, air, earth, and water -could conspire to throw in his way; and his faithless sergeant made -away with all the spirits he had in the keg at Swan r. However, he got -through all right, and got his men all through too--_sic iter ad -astra_. - -[II-49] The direct distance from Aitkin to the site of the N. W. Co. -house, at least 1 m. S. of the outlet of Sandy l., is about 24 m.; the -river is also pretty direct as a whole, between these two places; but -it is extremely tortuous in its many minor bends of a mile or two -apiece, so that the distance the sledges traveled on the ice may have -been twice as far as that by the way Pike and Bradley forged ahead. -These two reached Mr. Grant's house on the night of the 8th; the men -with the sledges, not till evening of the 13th. The two sets of camps -might be arbitrarily set along this lap, by ignoring such wild figures -as "27 miles" for the 5th, and assuming other data. But this would -probably not help us to a better understanding of this section of the -route than the following notes: 1. Less than a mile above the mouth of -Mud r. (Aitkin) a stream falls in on the right; this is Missagony r., -marked Sesabagomag r. on Owen's map. 2. Rice r. (Manomin r. of -Nicollet's map) falls in on the right, 4½ m. in an air-line above the -mouth of Mud r., in Sect. 4, T. 47, R. 26, 4th M. 3. Willow r. falls -in on the left, 6 m. in an air-line above the mouth of Rice r., in -Sect. 2, T. 48, R. 26, 4th M. This is to be particularly noted in -connection with Pike's journey, as he proceeds approximately by way of -this river from Sandy l. to Grand Rapids in the vicinity of Pokegama -falls. It is the largest tributary of the Mississippi on that side -between Pine r. and the Leech Lake branch of the Mississippi. Pike -charts it by the name of Pike r.--not his own name, as Beltrami -implies, II. p. 446, but that of the pike, a fish, translating F. -Rivière du Brochet; it is also Pike r. of Long's map; it was called -Alder r. by Cass and Meaogeo r. by Beltrami; but it is now always -known as Willow r. Its system of lakes is also in close relation with -those E. and S. E. of Leech l., and the river was thus one of the -recognized routes between this lake and the Mississippi. Its mouth is -about one-third of the direct distance between Aitkin and Sandy lake. -4. There are some rapids above Willow r., two of them called Moose and -Sandy Lake rapids; the latter are only about 2½ m. direct W. from the -lake, but fully 6 m. by the bends of the river; the town of Portage is -near them. Pike and Bradley left the river at some point below these -rapids, to make straight for the lake. 5. Sandy l., Lac au Sable or de -Sable of the French, is close to the river, on the right hand going -up, and discharges into the Mississippi by a short crooked stream -called Sandy Lake r., 2 m. or less in length. Its greatest diameter in -any direction is probably under 5 m., but the figure is so irregular, -with such extensive projections into the main body of waters, that the -actual shore-line is more than 30 m. It receives the discharges of a -number of smaller lakes in the vicinity, among them one called Aitkin -by Nicollet. Its principal feeders are two in number. One of these -comes in at the southernmost end of the lake, and takes the name of -Sandy, Sandy Lake, or Rice Lake r. The N. P. R. R. crosses this stream -near McGregor, which is 12 m. by the wagon-road southward from the -discharge of the lake. This river has a main branch from Manomin or -Rice l.; and either this branch or the whole river is the -Menomeny-sibi or Wild Oats r. of Beltrami. The other main affluent of -Sandy l. comes in from the E., at a point on the E. shore in the N. E. -¼ of Sect. 9, T. 49, R. 23, 4th M., and is generally known as Prairie -r. Nicollet called it Little Prairie r.; Long, Savanna r. Its main -branch from the N. E. is now known as Savanna r.; Nicollet called this -West Savannah r. to distinguish it from that branch of the St. Louis -r. which he designated East Savannah r., and accentuate the relations -of the two. For it must be known that these rivers of the -Mississippian basin connect so closely with certain branches of the -St. Louis, in the Lake Superior basin, that they were formerly of the -utmost importance as waterways between the two great systems, and as -such were greatly used by the early voyageurs. The N. W. Co. house -where Pike was entertained stood on the W. shore of Sandy l., next to -the Mississippi. Pike marks the site on his map, and gives it as 1¼ m. -S. of the discharge of the lake into the short thoroughfare by which -this reaches the Mississippi. There are existing remains of old -settlements in various positions further south. A trail from the -Indian village struck the Mississippi r. in the S. E. ¼ of Sect. 4, T. -49, R. 24. When David Thompson was here in 1798, he made the fort to -be lat. 46° 46' 39" N., long. 93° 20' W. It was a point of commercial -and even political importance long before Pike's day--it was such at -the pivotal date, 1763, in the history of French-English occupancy of -the Upper Mississippi. At the discharge of the lake into the -Mississippi on the N. side, in the center of Sect. 25, T. 50, R. 24, -is a small sharp point; this was the site of a post of the Amer. Fur -Co. of which Schoolcraft speaks in 1832; Palmburg was and Libby is -there now. It would be a pity if the government dam now constructing -on the outlet should convert this beautiful sheet of water into such a -dismal cesspool as Lake Winnibigoshish has become since that was -dammed; but lumberjacks prevail in northern Minnesota by a large -majority, and logging-booms have nothing in common with scenic -effects. - -[II-50] In the summer of 1802, the Morrison party, consisting of William -Morrison, the brothers Michael and Antoine Cheniers, John McBean, one -Bouvin, and one Grignon, came into the country in the service of the -X. Y. Co. (Richardson & Co.), in opposition to the N. W. Co. The -genuine Morrison letter elsewhere cited, in connection with the -discovery of the Mississippian source, says: "I found ... Sayers at -Leech Lake, Cotton at Fond du Lac, _and Bousquai at Sandy Lake_." The -latter is no doubt Pike's "Charles Brusky." The name stands Bousky in -Pike's text of 1807, p. 34. The Rev. Mr. Neill, Minn. Hist. Coll., V. -1885, p. 451, speaks of the visit of David Thompson, May 6th, 1798, to -Sandy Lake, adding, "where the post was in charge of Mr. Bruské" -(Bruske in the index). - -[II-51] See note 49, p. 137, for Willow r. Pike calls it "Leech Lake -river" in this place, not because that was then or ever has been its -name, but because it was on the route he was going to take from Sandy -l. to Leech l. He flatters our intelligence further by giving us a -perfectly blind snow-shoe trail, for the most part 'cross lots, -without a single compass-point, with wild mileage or none, and not -even a geographical hint, from the 20th to the 26th. He takes it for -granted that we know all about the swamps of N. Minnesota in -midwinter. Luckily, we are not without the means of bringing him to -book. He continues on the Willow River route toward Leech l. with his -whole party till the morning of the 26th, when he leaves the party to -follow up that route, and goes himself with Boley and the Indian to -Mr. Grant's house "on the Mississippi." The Mississippi is a pretty -long river, but it happens that we can discover where Mr. Grant's was -in 1805: see Pike's map, place marked "N. W. C^o.", on the right bank -(W. side) of the river, a little below the place marked "Ripple." This -was directly opposite the present town of Grand Rapids, Itasca Co., 3 -m. below Pokegama Falls. The air-line distance from the outlet of -Sandy l. to Grand Rapids is supposed to be 32-1/5 m.; by the way Pike -went perhaps 40-45 m. The course is about N. N. W. This cuts off a -considerable segment from the winding course of the Mississippi, which -makes a large elbow eastward. Pike subtends this bend; having crossed -the Mississippi near Sandy l., and thus continued across what he calls -the "portage" to Willow r., he goes up this, not far from parallel -with the Mississippi, till Willow r. bears more to the left; when he -leaves it to continue his course to Mr. Grant's house, having the -Mississippi on his right, but at several (say 5 to 10) miles' -distance, representing the amount of cut-off he makes. On the 26th, -with Boley and an Indian, he forges ahead of his party, who do not get -up to Grant's house till the evening of the 28th, though he is there -on the night of the 26th with the Indian, and Boley comes up on the -morning of the 27th. That section of the Mississippi which Pike thus -avoids may be passed over briefly, as it offers little of interest. -There are some rapids above Sandy l. Three of these are duly charted -by Nicollet, being his lower, middle, and upper "Small" rapids, -respectively now known as Ox-portage, Crooked, and Pine rapids. The -first of these are in Sect. 2, T. 50, R. 24, 4th M.: the others in the -next township above, of the same range. By far the most important -tributary of the Mississippi in this portion of its course is Swan r., -which falls in from the E. in Sect. 9, T. 52, R. 24, 4th M., 1¼ m. -(direct) south of the boundary line between Aitkin and Itasca cos., -which here runs on the line between T. 52 and T. 53. The Duluth and -Winnipeg R. R. from Duluth meanders the St. Louis r. as far as -Floodwood, continues N. W. to Wawana, along some tributaries of -Floodwood r., to the divide between Laurentian and Mississippian -waters in the vicinity of Swan r. The latter is marked "Wild Swan R." -on the U. S. Engineers' chart--which is well enough, as all the swans -in that country are wild, though this name apparently arose from -misunderstanding the legend "W. Swan R." on Nicollet's map. This -stands for _West_--not Wild--Swan r., and Nicollet meant by it to -contrast this stream with that tributary of the St. Louis which he -called East Swan r. At a distance of 6½ air-line miles, but fully 14 -m. by the meanders of the Mississippi, above the mouth of Swan r., a -small stream comes in from the W., nearly if not exactly on the common -corner of Sects. 21, 22, 27 and 28 of T. 53, R. 24, 4th M. This is -Split Hand r.--the Cut Hand cr. of Nicollet and of Owen, draining from -a lake of the same incisive name, from Willibob l., and some others, -all of which lie southeastward of the large Lake Pokegama. This is the -stream called by Beltrami Singonki-sibi or Marten r. Above Split Hand -r. are several streams on either hand. The one which I take to be -Nicollet's Blueberry cr. falls in from the E. in the S. W. ¼ of Sect. -21, T. 54, R. 24, 4th M., ¾ of a mile due S. of a considerable hill in -the next section above, and 3 m. due E. of Hale l.--that little lake -which is at the tip of the longest eastward finger of Lake Pokegama. -Ascending the Mississippi still, we next come to Trout r. or cr., from -the E., whose mouth falls in the S. W. ¼ of Sect. 5 of the township -just said. This has held its present name since the days of -Schoolcraft and Allen, though Beltrami called it Namago-sibi. Here we -are already approaching Grand Rapids, where we shall find Pike: for -the many important features of that vicinity see next note. - -[II-52] I do not know that the exact site of Grant's N. W. Co. House has -been recovered of late years; but there is no question of its location -nearly or directly opposite the town of Grand Rapids, somewhere in the -S. ½ of Sect. 21, T. 55, R. 25, 4th M. It doubtless stood on the first -rising ground from the river--most probably, as I think, on the knoll -that overlooks that curious expansion of the Mississippi into a pair -of ponds or one small lake of hour-glass shape, across the constricted -part of which the river flows. Grand Rapids is the seat of Itasca Co., -and has become quite a town of late years, at least in comparison with -any others for many miles thereabouts. It stands across the mouth of a -small creek, whose name, if it have one, I could not learn, even when -I was on the spot. It discharges from several small lakes. The rapids -from which the town takes its name are not particularly "grand." Pike -calls them a "ripple." "_Kakabikons_ (or simply _Kabikons_) rapids, as -I have laid them down on the map, have a fall of 9 feet in a distance -of 80 yards," Nicollet, Rep. 1843, p. 63. The volatile Beltrami calls -them "Sassicy-Woenne, or Thundering Rapids," II. p. 455. The Engineer -chart marks the rapids 1247 below and 1252 above--a difference of only -5 feet. At the direct distance of 2½ m. below (E. S. E. of) the town -is a village called La Prairie, of no consequence in itself, but -occupying a notable place. This is the mouth of a comparatively large -river, charted by Pike as "Meadow R. navigable for Bark Canoes 100 M." -Long also maps it as Meadow r.; by Beltrami it is called -Mushkotensoi-sibi or Prairie r., and this last is its present -designation (duplicating the name of one of the tributaries of Sandy -l.: see note 49, p. 138). It is the translation of the Indian word -which Nicollet in this connection renders Mashkudens, and which occurs -in many forms, as Mascouten, Muscatine, etc. About 2 m. S. W. of Grand -Rapids is Horseshoe l., one of the many small bodies of water which -hover like satellites about Lake Pokegama: see next note. The D. and -W. R. R. keeps on the N. side of the Mississippi, from La Prairie -through Grand Rapids to Cohasset and Deer River, its present terminus. - -[II-53] Jan. 29th and 30th are not entered in the diary, and there is -intrinsic evidence of confusion in Pike's notes. Observe the statement -made under "Feb. 1st" that Pike reached Leech l. at 2.30 p. m., -crossed it to the house and arrived there about 3 p. m.--12 m. in -about half an hour, an obvious impossibility. Observe also that Boley -was his only soldier according to Jan. 26th and 27th; but that Miller -was the man with him on the 28th and later days. What became of Boley -and where did Miller come from? We have not a word about the main -party; in fact we are never told by what route they reached Leech -l.--simply that they got there five days after Pike, at 4 p. m., Feb. -6th: see that date. Fortunately the early text of 1807, pp. 37-40, -clears the whole matter up, as follows: "After the whole party had -arrived at this lodge [Grant's house, evening of _Jan. 28th_], Mr. -Pike determined to proceed on to the head of the river [Leech l.], -accompanied by one of his young men, named Miller. He left the camp on -the morning of the _29th_, when it was snowing very fast," etc., -reached Pokegama falls at 1 p. m.; soon after found three deserted -Chippewa lodges, and "a fine parcel of split wood"; cut down three -balsam-firs to make a shelter, and camped. _Jan. 30th_, passed through -the "dismal cypress swamp," found Mr. Grant's cut-off and reached the -inhospitable Chippewas, who were living at or near White Oak pt. (All -this is given on the 28th in the above text; this is where the break -was made, though there is no break in the week-days, for the entry -"Tuesday, Jan. 28th," covers that day, Wednesday 29th, and Thursday -30th, as shown by what I have bracketed in the text.) _Jan. 31st_, -Pike and Miller continued on from White Oak pt. and went past the -mouth of the Leech Lake fork to some point on that fork, described -above as "one mile below [_i. e._ beyond] the traverse of the meadow," -in the 1807 text as "a mile above the meadow"; camped there. _Feb. -1st_, reached Leech l. "a little after midday," p. 39 of the 1807 -text, agreeing with 2.30 p. m. of above text well enough; across the -lake it was "12 miles" to the establishment of the North West Company, -at _which they arrived about ten o'clock in the evening_. "The gates -were locked," etc., p. 40. - -[II-54] Pike has now (Jan. 29th and 30th) gone up the Mississippi from -Grand Rapids to White Oak pt.--not following the river exactly, but -taking the cut-off Mr. Grant marked for him. The air-line distance is -about 13 m. Supposing him to have taken something like the usual -trail, he went as follows: At 3 m. direct above Grand Rapids, 4 m. by -the river, he passed Pokegama falls at 1 p. m., Jan. 29th. This is a -place where the Mississippi drops about 15 feet over a granular quartz -ridge: Pike maps it "Falls of Pakagama 20 F^t. Portage 200 yards." -It is naturally one of the best known points on the river in this -vicinity. It is visible in part from the car window as you go by on -the railroad, but the dam which has been built just above is a more -conspicuous object from that point of view. Nicollet calls the -cataract Kabikons or Little falls, and more fully Kakabikons or -Little-severed Rock falls. At 3¼ m. by the river, above these falls, -is the discharge of Lake Pokegama itself. This is by far the largest -body of water in the vicinity, having an extreme length of 13 m.; but -its form is so irregular, something like a hand with spread-out -fingers, that its actual shore-line is very much greater; and a number -of smaller sheets of water are dotted about it on all sides. Two of -the largest of these are Sisibakwet and Rice lakes. Nicollet renders -Pakegomag, "a name applied by the Chippeways to all sheets of water in -the vicinity of a river," Rep. 1843, p. 63. Schoolcraft says -Peckagama, Allen Pecagama, Owen Pokegoma; Packegamau, and I suppose a -dozen more forms of the word, are found; Beltrami has Pakegamanaguen -or Hook l.; the form I use seems to be most frequent now. The accent -is on the antepenult--Pokeg´-ama. A mile or so below the mouth of this -lake Bass brook falls in from the north, discharging from Bass and -other lakes; the town of Cohasset is at its mouth. The trail now -crosses, or lately did cross, the Mississippi from S. E. to N. W. in -this vicinity. It continues westward, past two overflows of the river -known as Backwater and Cut-off lakes, respectively, on one side and -the other of the Mississippi, continues to a small lake which I -suppose to be one of those so said by Pike above, and then strikes for -the larger lake he speaks of. This traverse leaves the Mississippi -several miles to the left as you go west; for the river makes an -extensive sharp bend S., and there receives Vermilion r. (Wanomon r. -on Nicollet's map) from the S., at the bight of this bend. Exactly 2¼ -m. below the mouth of Vermilion r. is the discharge of Lake -Kabukasagetewa (as the name is rendered on the Warner and Foote map). -The "large lake" of the above text is evidently that known to the -voyageurs as Lac aux Chênes, whence our Oak l., also White Oak l.; -from the head of which to Pointe aux Chênes, now Oak pt. or White Oak -pt. (Red-oak Point, Nic., p. 63), is exactly 2½ m. This is clearly the -place where the good Samaritan Chippewa and his amiable family -resided, close by the mouth of Deer r., which Pike charts by this -name, and which is still so called. This falls in from the N. through -another White Oak l., also called Deer, also Stephen's. Notice that -_this last_ (Deer r.) is the stream Beltrami erroneously calls -Onomonikana-sibi or Vermilion r., as he fetches it in on the N., both -in text and on his map. - -_Addendum to the above._ I found when at Deer River that the -nomenclature of the natives does not agree with that on our best maps -regarding the lake to be called "White Oak." The first White Oak l. of -the above note, and of all our modern maps--the one which Pike comes -to before he reaches White Oak pt.--is a small one 1½ × ¾ m., lying -chiefly in Sects. 3 and 10 of T. 55, R. 27, 4th M., and through it -goes one but not the other of the two courses into which the -Mississippi is here widely divided. The people never call this White -Oak l., but apply that name to the much larger one through which Deer -r. discharges above White Oak pt.--the Deer l. of Nicollet, Stephen's -lake of our maps. This is a pear-shaped body of water 2¾ m. in extreme -length, with a greatest breadth of over a mile at its lower end. It -lies mainly in Sects. 1, 2, and 12 of T. 144, R. 25, 5th M., but with -the butt end overrunning into T. 56, R. 27, 4th M., and both the inlet -and the outlet of Deer r. being in the latter township. It is thus -entirely off Pike's trail, N. and W. of White Oak pt. This lake -discharges into a loop of the Mississippi by a short thoroughfare of ½ -a mile, ending close above White Oak pt., in the N. E. ¼ of Sect. 13, -T. 144, R. 25, 5th M. The miserable hamlet of Deer River--as vile a -place as it was ever my bad luck to discover--lies W. of Deer r., and -a mile or more N. of White Oak l. Here is the terminus of the D. and -W. R. R., a siding of which runs down to the lake at a point ½ a mile -W. of the inlet of Deer r., where a pier is built. On crossing the -lake to get into and go up the Mississippi the usual route is through -the outlet and thence _down_ the Mississippi for nearly a mile, to get -into a long, straight cut-off which avoids some great bends. But there -is a shorter way still, if one can find it, as I did on coming -down--an obscure point directly opposite the pier, in the reeds, where -a canoe can be pushed through into the nearest bend, and so save more -than a mile. A fact which may have originated or perpetuated the above -noted confusion of names is that, above this _large_ White Oak or -Stephen's l. there is a point of hard-wood called Little White Oak -pt., occupying a position with reference to the larger lake like that -which the original Pointe aux Chênes or Oak pt. bears to the lesser -lake. A glance at the Engineer chart, or at such a good map as -Jewett's, on the scale of 2 m. to the inch, will give a clearer idea -of these points than the most elaborate description is likely to -convey. - -[II-55] "Chewockomen," as well as the "Chewockmen" of the 1807 ed., is -far from any recognized or acceptable spelling of the Chippewa word, -one fairly good form of which is _Kitchimokomen_. Schoolcraft has -Chimoquemon. It means Big Knives or Long Knives, and is commonly so -translated, the reference being either to the swords of the officers -or the bayonets of the soldiers, which have often struck Indians -forcibly, both in a literal and in a figurative sense. Kitchimokomen -corresponds to the Sioux name _Isantanka_, of the same meaning and -application. - -[II-56] On leaving White Oak pt. on the morning of Jan. 31st, Pike and -Miller proceeded approximately up the course of the Mississippi to the -"fork" above said, _i. e._, the confluence of Leech Lake fork with the -main stream. This stretch, which Pike calls "nearly 15 miles long," is -just 6 m. in an air-line, and not much more by the trail. The -Mississippi here flows through "meadows," as Pike correctly says; -these meadows are in part what Nicollet named Eagle Nest savannah. It -is absolutely flat and low marshy ground, alternating with haying -fields, extending widely on both sides of the river, S. and W. of -White Oak l. Little White Oak pt. reaches the river in a narrow tongue -of higher ground, from the N., while higher up several bends of the -river abut against woodland on the S. Throughout this reach the river -is exceeding tortuous; its bends are, moreover, so connected with -collateral channels, in part natural and in part artificial, that the -stream is virtually double and incloses a series of large islands in -its sinuous folds. Some of these thoroughfares float the steamboats -that ply on the river to transport the hay; others are mere ditches, -through which only canoes can be shoved. Two m. below (N. N. E. of) -the Leech Lake fork, the Mississippi receives an important affluent, -namely, the discharge of Ball Club l., which enters at about the -middle of the S. border of Sect. 31, T. 145, R. 25, 5th M., and thus -only about 4 m. due W. of Deer River (town). The difference in level -between this lake and the river is so slight that sometimes, when the -latter is full, it backs up into the former. Ball Club is a pretty -large lake--6 m. long, usually called 7, and 1 to 2 m. broad in -different places, with its long axis about N. W. and S. E.; its shape -is not very well delineated on the Engineer chart, being not elbowed -enough. The outlet is from the lower broad end, in the same Sect. in -which it joins the Mississippi, and is thus less than 1 m. long -(little over ½ m.). This lake is notable because it is the usual and -direct route up to Little Lake Winnibigoshish and so on, to avoid the -more circuitous course of the Mississippi itself. You traverse the -main axis of the lake from its outlet N. W. to its head, and there -make a portage of a mile or so over into Little Lake Winnibigoshish. -"Ball Club," the now universal name of this body of water, is a term -which translates the F. La Crosse; Schoolcraft renders once Lac a la -Crose; Pike has Lac Le Crosse and Le Cross. Schoolcraft has in another -place Bogottowa l., which aboriginal name is rendered Bagatwa by -Beltrami, Pagadowan by Nicollet, by others Pagadawin, etc. All these -names refer to the celebrated game of ball, which the learned -Anglojibway Warren calls _baugahudoway_. Several streams feed this -lake; one of them comes in at the head, from a small lake which -Schoolcraft named Helix l., from the abundance of its snails of that -genus. To return from this excursus to Pike at the mouth of the Leech -Lake fork, up which he goes: This is of course a definite and -well-known point, exactly on the dividing line between the S. W. ¼ of -Sect. 7, T. 144, R. 25, and the S. E. ¼ of Sect. 12, T. 144, R. 26, -5th M. I had a good view of the confluence from a bit of high bank on -the left or N. side of the Mississippi, looking across the mazes of -marsh and meadow land through which both streams meander to their -junction. Leech Lake r. is a very large branch of the Mississippi, -deserving the name of "fork" which Pike applies; he also calls it the -South, and the Sang Sue branch or fork. Beltrami essays the Chippewa -name, as Cazaguaguagine-sibi. Inasmuch as Pike considered this river -to be the main stream, I propose to designate Leech Lake and its -feeders and discharge as the =Pikean Source=, in distinction from the -Julian, Plantagenian, and Itascan sources we shall discuss beyond. -Passing the Forks, Pike and Miller go up Leech Lake r., Jan. 31st, to -some undetermined point in the vicinity of the largest lake into which -this stream expands, and which Pike calls Muddy l. This is of an oval -figure, about 4 m. long by half as broad; its outlet is 3¼ m. up Leech -Lake r. from the forks. Nicollet named it Lake Bessel, after the -famous scientist--his map fairly glitters with the galaxy of -illustrious names he reflects from the bosoms of lakes in Northern -Minnesota, though I cannot recall an instance in which such academic -nomenclature has been "understanded of the people" and retained in -their speech. The lake in present mention is always called Mud or -Muddy, and is much frequented by the Indians for the eminently -utilitarian purpose of gathering wild rice. I saw a string of their -canoes heading that way Aug. 15th, 1894. - - - - -CHAPTER III. - -ITINERARY, CONCLUDED: LEECH LAKE TO ST. LOUIS, FEBRUARY 1ST-APRIL -30TH, 1806. - - -Saturday, Feb. 1st. Left our camp pretty early. Passed a continued -train of prairie, and arrived at Lake La Sang Sue [Leech lake] at -half-past two o'clock. I will not attempt to describe my feelings on -the accomplishment of my voyage, for this is [what was then mistaken -to be] the main source of the Mississippi.[III-1] The Lake Winipie -branch is navigable thence to [Upper] Red Cedar [now Cass] lake, for -the distance of five leagues, which is [very far from being] the -extremity of the navigation. Crossed the lake 12 miles to the -establishment of the N. W. Company, where we arrived about three -o'clock [10 o'clock, p. m.]; found all the gates locked, but upon -knocking were admitted, and received with marked attention and -hospitality by Mr. Hugh M'Gillis. Had a good dish of coffee, biscuit, -butter, and cheese for supper. - -_Sunday, Feb. 2d._ Remained all day within doors. In the evening sent -an invitation to Mr. [George] Anderson, who was an agent of Dickson, -and also for some young Indians at his house, to come over and -breakfast in the morning. - -_Feb. 3d._ Spent the day in reading Volney's Egypt,[III-2] proposing -some queries to Mr. Anderson, and preparing my young man [Miller] to -return with a supply of provisions to my party. - -_Feb. 4th._ Miller departed this morning. Mr. Anderson returned to his -quarters. My legs and ankles were so much swelled that I was not able -to wear my own clothes and was obliged to borrow some from Mr. -M'Gillis. - -_Feb. 5th._ One of Mr. M'Gillis' clerks [Roussand or Boussant[III-3]] -had been sent to some Indian lodges and expected to return in four -days, but had now been absent nine. Mr. Grant was dispatched in order -to find out what had become of him. - -_Feb. 6th._ My men arrived at the fort about four o'clock.[III-4] Mr. -M'Gillis asked if I had any objections to his hoisting their [British] -flag in compliment to ours. I made none, as I had not yet explained to -him my ideas. In making a traverse of the lake, some of my men had -their ears, some their noses, and others their chins frozen. - -_Feb. 7th._ Remained within doors, my limbs being still very much -swelled. Addressed a letter to Mr. M'Gillis on the subject of the N. -W. Company trade in this quarter.[III-5] - -_Feb. 8th._ Took the latitude and found it to be 47° 16' 13". Shot -with our rifles. - -_Sunday, Feb. 9th._ Mr. M'Gillis and myself paid a visit to Mr. -Anderson, an agent of Mr. Dickson of the Lower Mississippi, who -resided at the west end of the lake.[III-6] Found him eligibly situated -as to trade, but his houses bad. I rode in a cariole for one person, -constructed in the following manner: Boards planed smooth, turned up -in front about two feet, coming to a point, and about 2½ feet wide -behind; on which is fixed a box covered with dressed skins painted; -this box is open at the top, but covered in front about two-thirds of -the length. The horse is fastened between the shafts. The rider wraps -himself up in a buffalo-robe and sits flat down, having a cushion to -lean his back against. Thus accoutered, with a fur cap, etc., he may -bid defiance to the wind and weather. Upon our return we found that -some of the Indians had already returned from the hunting-camps; also, -Monsieur Roussand [Mr. M'Gillis' clerk of Feb. 5th], the gentleman -supposed to have been killed by the Indians. His arrival with Mr. -Grant diffused a general satisfaction through the fort. - -_Feb. 10th._ Hoisted the American flag in the fort. The English yacht -[Jack] still flying at the top of the flagstaff, I directed the -Indians and my riflemen to shoot at it. They soon broke the iron pin -to which it was fastened, and brought it to the ground. Reading -Shenstone, etc. - -_Feb. 11th._ The Sweet, Buck, Burnt, etc., arrived, all chiefs of -note, but the former in particular, a venerable old man.[III-7] From him -I learned that the Sioux occupied this ground when, to use his own -phrase, "he was a made man and began to hunt; that they occupied it -the year that the French missionaries were killed at the river -Pacagama." The Indians flocked in. - -_Feb. 12th._ Bradley and myself, with Mr. M'Gillis and two of his men, -left Leech Lake at ten o'clock, and arrived at the house at [Upper] -Red Cedar [now Cass[III-8]] Lake, at sunset, a distance of 30 miles. My -ankles were very much swelled and I was very lame. From the entrance -of the Mississippi to the streight is called six miles, S. W. -course. Thence to the south end, S. 30 E. four miles. The bay at the -entrance extends nearly E. and W. six miles; it is about 2½ from the -north side to a large point. This may be called the upper source of -the Mississippi, being 15 miles above Little Lake Winipie [_i. e._, -Lake Winnibigoshish]; and the extent of canoe navigation only two -leagues to some of the Hudson's Bay waters. - -_Feb. 13th._ Were favored with a beautiful day. Took the latitude, and -found it to be 47° 42' 40" N. At this place it was that Mr. -Thompson[III-9] made his observations in 1798, from which he determined -that the source of the Mississippi was in 47° 38'. I walked about -three miles back in the country, at two-thirds water. One of our men -marched to Lake Winepie [_i. e._, Lake Winnibigoshish] and returned by -one o'clock, for the stem of the Sweet's pipe, a matter of more -consequence in his affairs with the Sioux than the diploma of many an -ambassador. We feasted on whitefish [_Coregonus_ sp.], roasted on two -iron grates fixed horizontally in the back of the chimney; the -entrails left in the fish. - -_Feb. 14th._ Left the house at nine o'clock. It becomes me here to do -justice to the hospitality of our hosts: one Roy, a Canadian, and his -wife, a Chipeway squaw. They relinquished for our use the only thing -in the house that could be called a bed, attended us like servants, -nor could either of them be persuaded to touch a mouthful until we had -finished our repasts. We made the [Leech Lake] garrison about sundown, -having been drawn at least 10 miles in a sleigh by two small dogs. -They were loaded with 200 pounds, and went so fast as to render it -difficult for the men with snowshoes to keep up with them. The chiefs -asked my permission to dance the calumet-dance, which I granted. - -_Feb. 15th._ The Flat Mouth,[III-10] chief of the Leech Lake village, -and many other Indians arrived. Received a letter from Mr. -M'Gillis.[III-11] Noted down the heads of my speech, and had it -translated into French, in order that the interpreter should be -perfectly master of his subject. - -_Sunday, Feb. 16th._ Held a council with the chiefs and warriors of -this place and of Red Lake; but it required much patience, coolness, -and management to obtain the objects I desired, viz.: That they should -make peace with the Sioux; deliver up their [British] medals and -flags; and that some of their chiefs should follow me to St. -Louis.[III-12] As a proof of their agreeing to the peace, I directed that -they should smoke out of the [Sioux chief] Wabasha's pipe, which lay -on the table; they all smoked, from the head chief to the youngest -soldier. They generally delivered up their flags with a good grace, -except Flat Mouth, who said he had left both at his camp, three days' -march, and promised to deliver them up to Mr. M'Gillis to be -forwarded. With respect to their returning with me, old Sweet thought -it most proper to return to the Indians of Red lake, Red river, and -Rainy Lake river. Flat Mouth said it was necessary for him to restrain -his young warriors, etc. The other chiefs did not think themselves of -sufficient consequence to offer any reason for not following me to St. -Louis, a journey of between 2,000 and 3,000 miles through hostile -tribes of Indians. I then told them, "that I was sorry to find that -the hearts of the Sauteurs of this quarter were so weak; that the -other nations would say, 'What! were there no soldiers at Leech, Red, -and Rainy Lakes who had the hearts to carry the calumet of their chief -to their father?'" This had the desired effect. The Bucks and Beaux -[_sic_--both pl.], two of the most celebrated young warriors, rose and -offered themselves to me for the embassy; they were accepted, adopted -as my children, and I was installed their father. Their example -animated the others, and it would have been no difficult matter to -have taken a company; two, however, were sufficient. I determined that -it should be my care never to make them regret the noble confidence -placed in me; for I would have protected their lives with my own. -Beaux is brother to Flat Mouth. Gave my new soldiers a dance and a -small dram. They attempted to get more liquor, but a firm and -peremptory denial convinced them I was not to be trifled with. - -_Feb. 17th._ The chief of the land[III-13] brought in his flag and -delivered it up. Made arrangements to march my party the next day. -Instructed Sweet how to send the parole to the Indians of Red river, -etc. Put my men through the manual, and fired three blank rounds, all -of which not a little astonished the Indians. I was obliged to give my -two new soldiers each a blanket, pair of leggins, scissors, and -looking-glass. - -_Feb. 18th._ We[III-14] marched for [Lower] Red Cedar Lake about eleven -o'clock, with a guide provided for me by Mr. M'Gillis; were all -provided with snowshoes. Marched off amid the acclamations and shouts -of the Indians, who generally had remained to see us take our -departure. Mr. Anderson promised to come on with letters; he arrived -about twelve o'clock and remained all night. He concluded to go down -with me to see Mr. Dickson. - -_Feb. 19th._ Bradley, Mr. L'Rone [?], the two young Indians [Buck and -Beau], and myself, left Mr. M'Gillis' at ten o'clock; crossed Leech -Lake in a S. E. direction 24 miles. Mr. M'Gillis' hospitality deserves -to be particularly noticed; he presented me with his dogs and cariole, -valued in this country at $200. One of the dogs broke out of his -harness, and we were not able during that day to catch him again; the -other poor fellow was obliged to pull the whole load--at least 150 -pounds. This day's march was from lake to lake.[III-15] - -_Feb. 20th._ I allowed my men to march at least three hours before me; -notwithstanding which, as it was cold and the road good, my sleigh -dogs brought me ahead of all by one o'clock. Halted for an encampment -at half past two o'clock. Our courses this day were S. E. six miles, -then S. 18 miles, almost all the way over lakes, some of which were -six miles across. Encamped on the bank of a lake called Sandy -Lake.[III-16] Indians were out hunting. - -_Feb. 21st._ Traveled this day generally S. Passed but two lakes; -Sandy Lake, which is of an oblong form, N. and S. four miles, and one -other small one. The Indians, at the instigation of Mr. L'Rone, -applied for him to accompany us. I consented that he should go as far -as [Lower] Red Cedar Lake. I then wrote a note to M'Gillis upon the -occasion. After Reale had departed with it, L'Rone disclosed to me -that it was his wish to desert the N. W. Company entirely, and -accompany me. To have countenanced for a moment anything of this kind, -I conceived would have been inconsistent with every principle of -honor; I therefore obliged him to return immediately. We then had no -guide, our Indians not knowing the road. Our course was through woods -and bad brush, 15 miles. - -_Feb. 22d._ Our course a little to the S. of E., through woods not -very thick. Arrived at White Fish Lake[III-17] at eleven o'clock, and -took an observation. My party crossed this lake and encamped between -two lakes. This may be called the source of Pine river. At this place -has been one of the N. W. Company's establishments at the N. E. and S. -side. It was a square stockade of about 50 feet, but at this time -nearly all consumed by fire. Also one standing over the point on the -E. side. - -_Sunday, Feb. 23d._ My two Indians, Boley, and myself, with my sleigh -and dogs, left the party under an idea that we should make [Lower] Red -Cedar lake. We marched hard all day, without arriving at the -Mississippi. Our course was nearly due east until near night, when we -changed more south. Took no provision or bedding. My Indians killed 15 -partridges, some nearly black, with a red mark over their eyes, called -the savanna partridge [Canada grouse or spruce partridge, _Dendragapus -canadensis_]. Overtaken about noon by two of Mr. Anderson's men, named -Brurie and [Blank], Mr. Anderson himself not being able to come. -Distance 30 miles. - -_Feb. 24th._ We started early, and after passing over one of the worst -roads in the world, found ourselves on a lake about three o'clock; -took its outlet [Dean creek] and struck the Mississippi about one mile -below the [Chippewa] canoes mentioned on Jan. 1st, by which I knew -where we were. Ascended the Mississippi about four miles, and encamped -on the west side [about the mouth of Hay creek[III-18]]. Our general -course this day was nearly S., when it should have been S. E. My -young warriors were still in good heart, singing and showing every -wish to keep me so. The pressure of my racket-strings brought the -blood through my socks and mockinsons, from which the pain I marched -in may be imagined. - -_Feb. 25th._ We marched and arrived at [Lower Red] Cedar lake before -noon; found Mr. Grant and De Breche, chief of Sandy lake -[Chippewas[III-19]] at the house. This gave me much pleasure, for I -conceive Mr. Grant to be a gentleman of as much candor as any with -whom I made an acquaintance in this quarter, and the chief, De Breche, -is reputed to be a man of better information than any [other] of the -Sauteurs. - -_Feb. 26th._ Sent one of Mr. Grant's men down with a bag of rice to -meet my people; he found them encamped on the Mississippi. Wrote a -letter[III-20] to Mr. Dickson on the subject of the Fols Avoins [Folle -Avoine or Menomonee Indians]; also, some orders to my sergeant -[Kennerman, at the stockade on Swan river]. This evening I had a long -conversation with De Breche; he informed me that a string of wampum -had been sent among the Chipeways, he thought by the British -commanding officer at St. Joseph. He appeared to be a very intelligent -man. - -_Feb. 27th._ The chief called the White Fisher and seven Indians -arrived at the house. My men also arrived about twelve o'clock. - -_Feb. 28th._ We left [Lower] Red Cedar lake about eleven o'clock, and -went to where the canoes were [near Dean creek], mentioned in my -journal of Jan. 1st. My young Indians [Buck and Beau] remained behind -under the pretense of waiting for the chief De Breche, who returned to -Sandy Lake for his [British] flag and medals, and was to render -himself at my post with Mr. Grant about the 15th of the following -month. - -_Mar. 1st._ Departed early. Passed our encampment of Dec. 31st at nine -o'clock. Passed Pine river at twelve o'clock. Passed our encampment of -Dec. 30th at three o'clock. Passed our encampment of Dec. 29th just -before we came to our present, which we made on the point of the Pine -Ridge below. Distance 43 miles.[III-21] - -_Sunday, Mar. 2d._ Passed our encampment of Dec. 28th at ten o'clock, -that of Dec. 27th at one o'clock, and encamped at that of Dec. 26th -[Brainerd]. Found wood nearly sufficient for our use. This morning -dispatched Bradley to the last place we had buried a barrel of flour -[Dec. 20th, a short distance below Crow Wing river], to thaw the -ground and hunt. This day a party of Indians struck the river behind -Bradley and before us, but left it 10 miles above Raven [Crow Wing] -river. - -_Mar. 3d._ Marched early; passed our Christmas encampment at sunrise. -I was ahead of my party in my cariole. Soon afterward I observed a -smoke on the W. shore. I hallooed, and some Indians appeared on the -bank. I waited until my interpreter came up; we then went to the camp. -They proved to be a party of Chipeways, who had left the encampment -the same day we left it. They presented me with some roast meat, which -I gave my sleigh dogs. They then left their camp and accompanied us -down the river. We passed our encampment of Dec. 24th at nine -o'clock, of the 23d at ten o'clock, and of the 22d at eleven o'clock; -here the Indians crossed over to the W. shore; arrived at the -encampment of Dec. 21st at twelve o'clock, where we had a barrel of -flour [cached Dec. 20th, short of Crow Wing river]. - -I here found Corporal Meek and another man from the post [on Swan -river], from whom I heard that the men were all well; they confirmed -the account of a Sioux having fired on a sentinel; and added that the -sentinel had first made him drunk and then turned him out of the tent; -upon which he fired on the sentinel and ran off, but promised to -deliver himself up in the spring. The corporal informed me that the -sergeant [Kennerman] had used all the elegant hams and saddles of -venison which I had preserved to present to the commander-in-chief and -other friends; that he had made away with all the whisky, including a -keg I had for my own use, having publicly sold it to the men, and a -barrel of pork; that he had broken open my trunk and sold some things -out of it, traded with the Indians, gave them liquor, etc.; and this, -too, contrary to my most pointed and particular directions. Thus, -after I had used in going up the river with my party the strictest -economy, living upon two pounds of frozen venison a day, in order that -we might have provision to carry us down in the spring, this fellow -was squandering the flour, pork, and liquor during the winter, while -we were starving with hunger and cold. I had saved all our corn, -bacon, and the meat of six deer, and left it at Sandy Lake, with some -tents, my mess-boxes, salt, tobacco, etc., all of which we were -obliged to sacrifice by not returning the same route we went; we had -consoled ourselves at this loss by the flattering idea that we should -find at our little post a handsome stock preserved--how mortifying the -disappointment! - -We raised our barrel of flour and came down to the mouth of the little -[Nokasippi] river, on the E., which we had passed on Dec. 21st. The -ice covered with water. - -_Mar. 4th._ Proceeded early. Passed our encampment of Dec. 20th at -sunrise. Arrived at that of the 19th [read 17th] at nine o'clock; here -we had buried two barrels.[III-22] Made a large fire to thaw the ground. -Went on the prairie and found Sparks, one of my hunters, and brought -him to the river at the Pine Camp [of Dec. 14th, 15th, 16th, vicinity -of Olmsted's bar]. Passed on opposite our encampment of Dec. 13th [at -or near Topeka], and encamped where Sparks and some men had an old -hunting-camp, and where Fresaie, a Chipeway chief, surrounded them. - -_Mar. 5th._ Passed all the encampments [Dec. 12th, 11th, 10th, 9th] -between Pine creek and the post, at which we arrived about ten -o'clock.[III-23] I sent a man on ahead to prevent the salute I had -before ordered by letter [of Feb. 28th]; this I had done from the idea -that the Sioux chiefs would accompany me. Found all well. Confined my -sergeant. About one o'clock Mr. Dickson arrived, with Killeur Rouge, -his son, and two other Sioux men, with two women who had come up to be -introduced to the Sauteurs they expected to find with me. Received a -letter from [Joseph] Reinville. - -_Mar. 6th._ Thomas [Carron[III-24]], the Fols Avoin's first chief, -arrived with ten others of his nation. I made a serious and -authoritative expostulative representation to him of my opinion of the -conduct of Shawonoe, another chief of his nation, who had behaved ill. -Had also a conference with Killeur Rouge and his people. At night -wrote to Messrs. Grant, M'Gillis, and Anderson. - -_Mar. 7th._ Held conversations with the Indians. Thomas [Carron], the -Fols Avoin chief, assured me that he would interest himself in -obliging the Puants to deliver up the men who had recently committed -murders on the Ouiscousing and Rock rivers; and if necessary he would -make it a national quarrel, on the side of the Americans. This Thomas -is a fine fellow, of a very masculine figure, noble and animated -delivery, and appears to be very much attached to the Americans. The -Sioux informed me that they would wait until I had determined my -affairs in this country, and then bear my words to the St. Peters. - -_Mar. 8th._ The Fols Avoin chief presented me with his pipe to give to -the Sauteurs on their arrival, with assurances of their safety on -their voyage, and his wish for them to descend the river. The Fils de -Killeur Rouge also presented me with his pipe to present to the -Sauteur Indians on their arrival, to make them smoke, and assure them -of his friendly disposition, and that he would wait to see them at Mr. -Dickson's. Thomas made a formal complaint against a Frenchman, by name -Greignor,[III-25] who resided in Green bay, and who he said abused the -Indians, beat them, etc., without provocation. I promised to write to -the commanding officer or Indian agent at Michilimackinac upon the -occasion. The Indians with Mr. Dickson all took their departure. -Hitched my dogs in the sleigh, which drew one of the Indian women down -the ice, to the no little amusement of the others. Went some distance -down the river in order to cut a mast. Cut a pine mast 35 feet long -for my big boat at the prairie [Prairie du Chien]. This day my little -boy broke the cock of my gun; few trifling misfortunes could have -happened which I should have regretted more, as the wild fowl just -began to return on the approach of spring. - -_Sunday, Mar. 9th._ I examined into the conduct of my sergeant, and -found that he was guilty; punished him by reduction, etc. Visited the -Fols Avoin lodges and received a present of some tallow. One of my men -arrived from the hunting-camp with two deer. - -_Mar. 10th._ Was visited by the Fols Avoin chief and several others of -his nation. This chief was an extraordinary hunter; to instance his -power, he killed 40 elk and a bear in one day, chasing the former from -dawn to eve. We were all busied in preparing oars, guns, mast, etc., -by the time the ice broke up, which was opening fast. - -_Mar. 11th._ In a long conversation with a Reynard, he professed not -to believe in an hereafter; but he believed that the world would all -be drowned by water at some future period; he asked how it was to be -repeopled. In justice to his nation, however, I must observe that his -opinion was singular.[III-26] - -_Mar. 12th._ Made preparations; had a fine chase with deer on the ice; -killed one. Since our return I have received eight deer from our camp. - -_Mar. 13th._ Received two deer from my hunting-camp. Went out with my -gun on the opposite side of the river. Ascended the mountain which -borders the prairie. On the point of it I found a stone on which the -Indians had sharpened their knives, and a war-club half finished. From -this spot you may extend the eye over vast prairies with scarcely any -interruption but clumps of trees, which at a distance appeared like -mountains, from two or three of which the smoke rising in the air -denoted the habitation of the wandering savage, and too often marked -them out as victims to their enemies; from whose cruelty I have had -the pleasure in the course of the winter and through a wilderness of -immense extent to relieve them, as peace has reigned through my -mediation from the prairie Des Cheins to the lower Red river. If a -subaltern with but 20 men, at so great a distance from the seat of his -government, could effect so important a change in the minds of those -savages, what might not a great and independent power effect, if, -instead of blowing up the flames of discord, they exerted their -influence in the sacred cause of peace? - -When I returned to the fort, I found the Fols Avoin chief, who -intended to remain all night. He told me that near the conclusion of -the Revolutionary War his nation began to look upon him as a warrior; -that they received a parole from Michilimackinac, on which he was -dispatched with 40 warriors; and that on his arrival he was requested -to lead them against the Americans. To which he replied: "We have -considered you and the Americans as one people. You are now at war; -how are we to decide who has justice on their side? Besides, you white -people are like the leaves on the trees for numbers. Should I march -with my 40 warriors to the field of battle, they with their chief -would be unnoticed in the multitude, and would be swallowed up as the -big water embosoms the small rivulets which discharge themselves into -it. No, I will return to my nation, where my countrymen may be of -service against our red enemies, and their actions renowned in the -dance of our nation." - -_Mar. 14th._ Took the latitude by an artificial horizon, and measured -the river. Received one deer and a half from my hunting-camp. Ice -thinner. - -_Mar. 15th._ This was the day fixed upon by Mr. Grant and the Chipeway -warriors for their arrival at my fort. I was all day anxiously -expecting them, for I knew that should they not accompany me down, the -peace partially effected between them and the Sioux would not be on a -permanent footing. Upon this I take them to be neither so brave or -generous as the Sioux, who in all their transactions appear to be -candid and brave, whereas the Chipeways are suspicious, consequently -treacherous and of course cowards. - -_Sunday, Mar. 16th._ Received three deer from our hunting-camp. -Examined trees for canoes. - -_Mar. 17th._ Left the fort with my interpreter [Rousseau] and [Private -Alexander] Roy, in order to visit Thomas, the Fols Avoin chief, who -was encamped, with six lodges of his nation, about 20 miles below us, -on a little [Wolf creek of Pike, now Spunk] river which empties into -the Mississippi on the W. side, a little above Clear river [of Pike, -now the Platte]. On our way down killed one goose, wounded another, -and a deer that the dogs had driven into an air-hole; hung our game on -the trees. Arrived at the creek; took out on it; ascended three or -four miles on one bank, and descended on the other [missing Carron's -camp both ways]. Killed another goose. Struck the Mississippi below -[Spunk river]. Encamped at our encampment of the [13th] of October, -when we ascended the river. Ate our goose for supper. It snowed all -day, and at night a very severe storm arose. It may be imagined that -we spent a very disagreeable night without shelter, and but one -blanket each. - -_Mar. 18th._ We marched [up Spunk river], determined to find the -[Menomonee] lodges. Met an Indian whose track we pursued through -almost impenetrable woods for about 2½ miles to the camp. Here there -was one of the finest sugar-camps I almost ever saw, the whole of the -timber being sugar-tree. We were conducted to the chief's lodge, who -received us in patriarchal style. He pulled off my leggings and -mockinsons, put me in the best place in his lodge, and offered me dry -clothes. He then presented us with syrup of the maple to drink, and -asked whether I preferred eating beaver, swan, elk, or deer; upon my -giving the preference to the first, a large kettle was filled by his -wife, in which soup was made; this being thickened with flour, we had -what I then thought a delicious repast. After we had refreshed -ourselves, he asked whether we would visit his people at the other -lodges, which we did, and in each were presented with something to -eat; by some, with a bowl of sugar; by others, a beaver's tail, etc. -After making this tour we returned to the chief's lodge, and found a -berth provided for each of us, of good soft bearskins nicely spread, -and on mine there was a large feather pillow. - -I must not here omit to mention an anecdote which serves to -characterize more particularly their manners. This in the eyes of the -contracted moralist would deform my hospitable host into a monster of -libertinism; but by a liberal mind would be considered as arising from -the hearty generosity of the wild savage. In the course of the day, -observing a ring on one of my fingers, he inquired if it was gold; he -was told it was the gift of one with whom I should be happy to be at -that time; he seemed to think seriously, and at night told my -interpreter, "That perhaps his father" (as they all called me) "felt -much grieved for the want of a woman; if so, he could furnish him with -one." He was answered that with us each man had but one wife, and that -I considered it strictly my duty to remain faithful to her. This he -thought strange, he himself having three, and replied that "He knew -some Americans at his nation who had half a dozen wives during the -winter." The interpreter observed that they were men without -character; but that all our great men had each but one wife. The chief -acquiesced, but said he liked better to have as many as he pleased. -This conversation passing without any appeal to me, as the interpreter -knew my mind on those occasions and answered immediately, it did not -appear as an immediate refusal of the woman. Continued snowing very -hard all day. Slept very warm. - -_Mar. 19th._ This morning purchased two baskets of sugar, for the -amount of which I gave orders on Mr. Dickson. After feasting upon a -swan, took our leave for [the Swan river] camp; still snowing. Finding -my two companions [the interpreter and Private Roy] unable to keep up, -I pushed on and arrived at the [Mississippi] river. When I arrived at -the place where I had hung up my first goose [Mar. 17th], I found that -the ravens and eagles had not left a feather; and feasting upon the -deer was a band sufficient to have carried it away, which had picked -its bones nearly clean; what remained I gave my dogs. Stopped at the -place where I expected to find the last goose, but could see nothing -of it; at length I found it hid under the grass and snow, where some -animal had concealed it, after eating off its head and neck. I carried -it to the fort, where I arrived about an hour before sundown. -Dispatched immediately two men with rackets to meet the interpreter -and Le Roy [Private A. Roy]. They arrived about two hours after dark. -Some men also arrived at [from?] the hunting-camp with three deer. -The snow ceased falling about one hour after dark; it was nearly two -feet deep on a level, the deepest that had fallen so low down this -winter. - -_Mar. 20th._ Dispatched nine men to my hunting-camp, whence received -two deer. Cloudy almost all day; but the water rose fast over the ice. - -_Mar. 21st._ Received a visit from the Fols Avoin chief called the -Shawonoe, and six young men. I informed him without reserve of the -news I had heard of him at [Lower] Red Cedar Lake, and the letter I -wrote to Mr. Dickson. He denied it in toto, and on the contrary said -that he presented his flag and two medals to the Chipeways, as an -inducement for them to descend in the spring; and gave them all the -encouragement in his power. His party was much astonished at the -language I held with him. But from his firm protestations we finally -parted friends. He informed me that a camp of Sauteurs were on the -river, waiting for the chiefs to come down; from which it appeared -they were still expected. At night, after the others had gone, Thomas -arrived and stayed all night. We agreed upon a hunting-party; also -promised to pay old Shawonoe a visit. He informed me that he set out -the other day to follow me, but finding the storm so very bad returned -to his wigwam. The thermometer lower than it has been at any time -since I commenced my voyage. - -_Mar. 22d._ Ten of my men arrived from the hunting-camp with 4½ deer. -Thomas departed; I sent a man with him to his camps, from which he -sent me two beavers. - -_Sunday, Mar. 23d._ Agreeably to promise, after breakfast I departed -with Miller and my interpreter to pay a visit to the old chief -Shawonoe. We arrived at his camp in about two hours. On our way we met -the Fols Avoin called Chein Blanche [Chien Blanc], who had visited my -post [Dec. 7th] previously to my starting up the river, and at whose -house we stopped when passing. We were received by old Shawonoe at his -lodge with the usual Indian hospitality, but very different from the -polite reception given us by Thomas. - -Charlevoix and others have all borne testimony to the beauty of this -nation. From my own observation, I had sufficient reason to confirm -their information as respected the males; for they were all straight -and well-made, about the middle size; their complexions generally fair -for savages, their teeth good, their eyes large and rather -languishing; they have a mild but independent expression of -countenance, that charms at first sight; in short, they would be -considered anywhere as handsome men. But their account of the women I -never before believed to be correct. In this lodge there were five -very handsome women when we arrived; and about sundown a married pair -arrived, whom my interpreter observed were the handsomest couple he -knew; and in truth they were, the man being about 5 feet 11 inches, -and possessing in an eminent manner all the beauties of countenance -which distinguish his nation. His companion was 22 years old, having -dark brown eyes, jet hair, an elegantly proportioned neck, and her -figure by no means inclined to corpulency, as they generally are after -marriage. He appeared to attach himself particularly to me, and -informed that his wife was the daughter of an American who, passing -through the nation about 23 years before, remained a week or two -possessed of her mother, and that she was the fruit of this amour; but -his name they were unacquainted with. I had brought six biscuits with -me, which I presented her on the score of her being my countrywoman; -this raised a loud laugh, and she was called "the Bostonian"[III-27] -during the rest of my stay. - -I found them generally extremely hard to deal with. My provision being -only a little venison, I wished to procure some bear's oil, for a few -gallons of which I was obliged to pay $1 per gallon, and then they -wanted to mix tallow with the oil. They also demanded $10 for a -bearskin, the most beautiful I ever saw, which I wanted to mount a -saddle. Indeed I was informed that traders in this country sometimes -give as much as $16 [apiece] for bearskins, for they are eminently -superior to anything of the kind on the lower Mississippi, and sell in -Europe for double the price. In the evening we were entertained with -the calumet and dog dance; also the dance of the ----. Some of the men -struck the post and told some of their war exploits; but as they spoke -in Menomene, my interpreter could not explain it. After the dance, we -had the feast of the dead, as it is called, at which each two or -three were served with a pan or vessel full of meat, and when all were -ready there was a prayer, after which the eating commenced. Then it -was expected we should eat up our portion entirely, being careful not -to drop a bone, but to gather all up and put them in the dish. We were -then treated with soup. After the eating was finished the chief again -gave an exhortation, which finished the ceremony. I am told they then -gather up all the fragments, and throw them in the water, lest the -dogs should get them. Burning them is considered as sacrilegious. In -this lodge were collected at one time 41 persons, great and small, 17 -of whom were capable of bearing arms, besides dogs without number. - -_Mar. 24th._ Rose early and with my dog-sled arrived at the fort -before ten o'clock. In the afternoon Mr. Grant arrived with De Breche -[Brèche-dent] and some of his young men. Saluted him with 14 rounds. -Found my two young warriors [Buck and Beau] of Leech Lake were brave -enough to return to their homes. Mr. Grant and myself sat up late -talking. - -_Mar. 25th._ Sent an Indian to Thomas' lodge, and a letter to Mr. -Dickson. It snowed and stormed all day. Gave the chief the news. - -_Mar. 26th._ Thomas, the Fols Avoin chief, arrived with seven of his -men, and old Shawonoe and six of his party. I had them all to feed as -well as my own men. At night I gave them leave to dance in the -garrison, which they did until ten o'clock; but once or twice told me -that if I was tired of them the dance should cease. Old Shawonoe and -White Dog [Chien Blanc] of the Fols Avoins told their exploits, which -we could not understand; but De Breche arose and said, "I once killed -a Sioux and cut off his head with such a spear as I now present to -this Winebago"--at the same time presenting one to a Winebago present, -with whom the Chipeways were at war; this was considered by the former -as a great honor. My hunters went out but killed nothing. - -_Mar. 27th._ In the morning the Chipeway chief made a speech and -presented his peace pipe to me to bear to the Sioux, on which were -seven strings of wampum, as authority from seven bands of the -Chipeways either to conclude peace or to make war. As he had chosen -the former, he sent his pipe to the Sioux and requested me to inform -them that he and his people would encamp at the mouth of the Riviere -De Corbeau the ensuing summer, where he would see the United States -flag flying. As a proof of his pacific disposition, the Fols Avoin -chief then spoke and said: "His nation was rendered small by its -enemies; only a remnant was left, but they could boast of not being -slaves; for that always in preference to their women and children -being taken, they themselves killed them. But that their father (as -they called me) had traveled far, and had taken much pains to prevent -the Sioux and Chipeways from killing one another; that he thought none -could be so ungenerous as to neglect listening to the words of their -father; that he would report to the Sioux the pacific disposition of -the Sauteurs, and hoped the peace would be firm and lasting." I then -in a few words informed De Breche "that I would report to the Sioux -all he had said, and that I should ever feel pleased and grateful that -the two nations had laid aside the tomahawk at my request. That I -thanked the Fols Avoin chief for his good wishes and parole which he -had given the Sauteurs." After all this, each chief was furnished with -a kettle of liquor, to drink each other's health; and De Breche's flag -which I had presented him was displayed in the fort. The Fols Avoins -then departed, at which I was by no means displeased; for they had -already consumed all the dry meat I had laid aside for my voyage, and -I was apprehensive that my hunters would not be able to lay up another -supply. - -_Mar. 28th._ Late in the afternoon Mr. Grant and the Sauteurs took -their departure, calculating that the Sioux had left the country. Took -with me one of my soldiers and accompanied them to the Fols Avoins -lodge, called the Shawonese, where we ten stayed all night. The Fols -Avoins and Sauteurs had a dance, at which I left them and went to -sleep. Feasted on elk, sugar, and syrup. Previously to the Indians' -departing from my post, I demanded the chief's medal and flags; the -former he delivered, but with a bad grace; the latter he said were in -the lands when I left Lake De Sable (as instructed by the traders I -suppose), and that he could not obtain them. It thundered and -lightened. - -_Mar. 29th._ We all marched in the morning, Mr. Grant and party for -Sandy Lake, and I for my hunting-camp. I gave him my spaniel dog. He -joined me again after we had separated about five miles. Arrived at my -hunting-camp about eight o'clock in the morning, and was informed that -my hunters had gone to bring in a deer; they arrived with it, and -about eleven o'clock we all went out hunting. Saw but few deer, out of -which I had the good fortune to kill two. On our arrival at camp found -one of my men at the garrison with a letter from Mr. Dickson. The -soldier informed me that one Sioux had arrived with Mr. Dickson's men. -Although much fatigued, as soon as I had eaten something I took one of -my men and departed for the garrison one hour before sundown. The -distance was 21 miles, and the ice very dangerous, being rotten, with -water over it nearly a foot deep; we had sticks in our hands, and in -many places ran them through the ice. It thundered and lightened, with -rain. The Sioux, not finding the Sauteurs, had returned immediately. - -_Sunday, Mar. 30th._ Wrote to Mr. Dickson, and dispatched his man. -Considerably stiff from my yesterday's march. Calked our boats, as the -ice had every appearance of breaking up in a few days. Thus while on -the wing of eager expectation, every day seemed an age. Received 2½ -deer from our hunting-camp. - -_Mar. 31st._ Finished calking my boats; the difficulty then was with -me, what I should get to pitch the seams. We were all this day and -next as anxiously watching the ice as a lover would the arrival of the -priest who was to unite him to his beloved. Sometimes it moved a -little, but soon closed. An Indian and his woman crossed it when the -poles which they held in their hands were forced through in many -places. The provision to which I was obliged to restrict myself and -men, viz., two pounds of fresh venison per day, was scarcely -sufficient to keep us alive. Though I had not an extraordinary -appetite, yet I was continually hungry. - -[_Apr. 1st._ No entry.] - -_Apr. 2d._ Went out and killed one deer and two partridges. The ice -began to move opposite the fort at the foot of the rapids, but dammed -up below. Received half a dozen bears from my hunting-camp. Launched -our canoe and brought her down. - -_Apr. 3d._ Sent one man down to see the river, another to the camp, -and took two men myself over the hills on the other side of the -Mississippi to hunt. In the course of the day I killed a swan and a -goose, and we certainly would have killed one or two elk had it not -been for the sleigh-dogs; for we lay concealed on the banks of Clear -river when four came and threw themselves into it opposite, and were -swimming directly to us when our dogs bounced into the water, and they -turned. We then fired on them, but they carried off all the lead we -gave them, and we could not cross the river unless we rafted (it being -bank-full), which would have detained us too long a time. In the -evening it became very cold, and we passed rather an uncomfortable -night. - -_Apr. 4th._ Took our course home. I killed one large buck and wounded -another. We made a fire and ate breakfast. Arrived at the fort at two -o'clock. Was informed that the river was still shut below, at the -cluster of [Beltrami's Archipelago, Pike's Beaver, and now the -Thousand] islands. Received some bear-meat and one deer from the camp. - -_Apr. 5th._ In the morning dispatched two men down the river in order -to see if it was open. My hunters arrived from the camps. Tallowed my -boats with our candles and launched them; they made considerable -water. The young [son of] Shawonoe arrived in my canoe from above, -with about 1,000 lbs. of fur, which he deposited in the fort. The men -returned and informed me that the river was still shut about 10 miles -below. - -_Sunday, Apr. 6th._ Sailed my peroque with Sergeant Bradley [promoted, -_vice_ Kennerman reduced] and two men, to descend the river and see if -it was yet open below. They returned in the afternoon and reported all -clear. I had previously determined to load and embark the next day, -and hoped to find it free by the time I arrived. The Fols Avoin called -the Shawonoe arrived and encamped near the stockade. He informed me -that his nation had determined to send his son down in his place, as -he declined the voyage to St. Louis. All hearts and hands were -employed in preparing for our departure. In the evening the men -cleared out their room, danced to the violin, and sang songs until -eleven o'clock, so rejoiced was every heart at leaving this savage -wilderness. - -_Apr. 7th._ Loaded our boats and departed at 40 minutes past ten -o'clock. At one o'clock arrived at Clear river, where we found my -canoe and men. Although I had partly promised the Fols Avoin chief to -remain one night, yet time was too precious, and we put off; passed -the Grand [Sauk] Rapids, and arrived at Mr. Dickson's[III-28] just before -sun-down. We were saluted with three rounds. At night he treated all -my men with a supper and a dram. Mr. Dickson, Mr. Paulier, and myself -sat up until four o'clock in the morning. - -_Apr. 8th._ Were obliged to remain this day on account of some -information to be obtained here. I spent the day in making a rough -chart of St. Peters, notes on the Sioux, etc., and settling the -affairs of the Indian department with Mr. Dickson, for whose -communications and those of Mr. Paulier I am infinitely indebted. Made -every necessary preparation for an early embarkation. - -_Apr. 9th._ Rose early in the morning and commenced my arrangements. -Having observed two Indians drunk during the night, and finding upon -inquiry that the liquor had been furnished by a Mr. Greignor or -Jennesse [La Jeunesse], I sent my interpreter to them to request they -would not sell any strong drink to the Indians; upon which Mr. -Jennesse demanded the restrictions in writing, which were given to -him.[III-29] On demanding his license it amounted to no more than merely -a certificate that he had paid the tax required by a law of the -Indiana territory on all retailers of merchandise, and was by no -means an Indian license; however, I did not think proper to go into a -more close investigation. Last night was so cold that the water was -covered with floating cakes of ice, of a strong consistence. After -receiving every mark of attention from Messrs. Dickson and Paulier, I -took my departure at eight o'clock. At 4 p. m. arrived at the house of -Mr. Paulier, 25 leagues, to whose brother I had a letter. Was received -with politeness by him and a Mr. Veau [Vean of 1807 text, p. 56] who -had wintered alongside of him, on the very island at which we had -encamped on the night of the [4th?] of October in ascending. - -After having left this place some time, we discovered a bark canoe -ahead; we gained on it for some time, when it turned a point about 300 -yards before, and on our turning it also, it had entirely disappeared. -This excited my curiosity; I stood up in the barge, and at last -discovered it turned up in the grass of the prairie; but after we had -passed a good gunshot, three savages made their appearance from under -it, launched it in the river, and followed, not knowing of my other -boats, which had just turned the point immediately upon them. They -then came on; and on my stopping for the night at a vacant -trading-house, they also stopped, and addressed me, "_Saggo, -Commandant_," or "Your servant, Captain." I directed my interpreter to -inquire their motives for concealing themselves. They replied that -their canoe leaked, and that they had turned her up to discharge the -water. This I did not believe; and as their conduct was equivocal I -received them rather sternly; I gave them, however, a small dram and -piece of bread. They then re-embarked and continued down the river. - -Their conduct brought to mind the visit of Fils de Pinchow to Mr. -Dickson, during the winter; one principal cause of which was that he -wished to inform me that the seven men, whom I mentioned to have met -[Sept. 28th] when crossing the portage of St. Anthony, had since -declared that they would kill him for agreeing to the peace between -the Sioux and the Sauteurs; me for being instrumental in preventing -them from taking their revenge for relations killed by Sauteurs in -August, 1805; and Thomas, the Fols Avoin chief, for the support he -seemed disposed to give me. This information had not made the -impression it ought to have made, coming from so respectable a source -as the first chief of the village; but the conduct of those fellows -put me to the consideration of it. And I appeal to God and my country, -if self-preservation would not have justified me in cutting those -scoundrels to pieces wherever I found them? This my men would have -done, if ordered, amid a thousand of them, and I should have been -supported by the chiefs of the St. Peters, at the mouth of which were -300 warriors, attending my arrival; also [I should have been justified -in cutting to pieces], the rascal who fired on my sentinel last winter -[see Mar. 3d, p. 178]. I dreaded the consequences of the meeting, not -for the present, but for fear the impetuosity of my conduct might not -be approved of by my government, which did not so intimately know the -nature of those savages. - -This day, for the first time, we saw the commencement of vegetation; -yet the snow was a foot deep in some places. - -_Apr. 10th._ Sailed at half past five o'clock; about seven passed Rum -river, and at eight were saluted by six or seven lodges of Fols -Avoins, among whom was a Mr. [Blank], a clerk of Mr. Dickson's. Those -people had wintered on Rum river, and were waiting for their chiefs -and traders to descend in order to accompany them to the Prairie Des -Chiens. Arrived at the Falls of St. Anthony at ten o'clock. Carried -over all our lading and the canoe to the lower end of the portage, and -hauled our boats up on the bank. I pitched my tents at the lower end -of the encampment, where all the men encamped except the guard, whose -quarters were above. - -The appearance of the Falls was much more tremendous than when we -ascended; the increase of water occasioned the spray to rise much -higher, and the mist appeared like clouds. How different my sensations -now, from what they were when at this place before! At that time, not -having accomplished more than half my route, winter fast approaching, -war existing between the most savage nations in the course of my -route, my provisions greatly diminished and but a poor prospect of an -additional supply, many of my men sick and the others not a little -disheartened, our success in this arduous undertaking very doubtful, -just upon the borders of the haunts of civilized men, about to launch -into an unknown wilderness--for ours was the first canoe that had ever -crossed this portage--were reasons sufficient to dispossess my breast -of contentment and ease. But now we have accomplished every wish, -peace reigns throughout the vast extent, we have returned thus far on -our voyage without the loss of a single man, and hope soon to be -blessed with the society of our relations and friends. - -The river this morning was covered with ice, which continued floating -all day; the shores were still barricaded with it. - -_Apr. 11th._ Although it snowed very hard, we brought over both boats -and descended the river to the [Pike's] island at the entrance of the -St. Peters. I sent to the chiefs and informed them I had something to -communicate to them. Fils de Pinchow immediately waited on me, and -informed me that he would provide a place for the purpose. About -sundown I was sent for and introduced into the council-house, where I -found a great many chiefs of the Sussitongs, Gens des Feuilles, and -Gens du Lac. The Yanctongs had not yet come down. They were all -waiting for my arrival. There were about 100 lodges, or 600 people; we -were saluted on our crossing the river with ball, as usual. The -council-house was two large lodges, capable of containing 300 men. In -the upper were 40 chiefs, and as many pipes set against the poles, -alongside of which I had the Sauteur's pipes arranged. I then informed -them in short detail of my transactions with the Sauteurs; but my -interpreters were not capable of making themselves understood. I was -therefore obliged to omit mentioning every particular relative to the -rascal who fired on my sentinel, and to the scoundrel who broke the -Fols Avoins' canoes and threatened my life. The interpreters, however, -informed them that I wanted some of their principal chiefs to go to -St. Louis; and that those who thought proper might descend to the -prairie [Prairie du Chien], where we would give them more explicit -information. They all smoked out of the Sauteurs' pipes, excepting -three, who were painted black and who were some of those who lost -their relations last winter. I invited Fils de Pinchow and the son of -Killeur Rouge to come over and sup with me; when Mr. Dickson and -myself endeavored to explain what I intended to have said to them, -could I have made myself understood; that at the Prairie we would have -all things explained; that I was desirous of making a better report of -them than Capt. [Meriwether] Lewis could do from their treatment of -him. The former of those savages was the person who remained around my -post all last winter, and treated my men so well; they endeavored to -excuse their people, etc. - -_Apr. 12th._ Embarked early. Although my interpreter had been -frequently up the river, he could not tell me where the cave spoken of -by Carver could be found; we carefully sought for it, but in -vain.[III-30] At the Indian village a few miles above [read below: see -note 72, p. 74] St. Peters we were about to pass a few lodges, but -on receiving a very particular invitation to come on shore, we landed -and were received in a lodge kindly; they presented us sugar, etc. I -gave the proprietor a dram, and was about to depart, when he demanded -a kettle of liquor; on being refused, and after I had left the shore, -he told me that he did not like the arrangements and that he would go -to war this summer. I directed the interpreter to tell him that if I -returned to the St. Peters with the troops I would settle that affair -with him. On our arrival at the St. Croix, I found Petit Corbeau -[Little Raven: see note 2, p. 85] with his people, and Messrs. -Frazer and Wood. We had a conference, when Petit Corbeau made many -apologies for the misconduct of his people; he represented to us the -different manners in which his young warriors had been inducing him -to go to war; that he had been much blamed for dismissing his party -last fall, but that he was determined to adhere as far as lay in his -power to our instructions; that he thought it most prudent to remain -here and restrain the warriors. He then presented me with a beaver -robe and pipe, and his message to the general, that he was determined -to preserve peace, and make the road clear; also, a remembrance of his -promised medal. I made him a reply calculated to confirm him in his -good intentions, and assured him that he should not be the less -remembered by his father, although not present. - -I was informed that notwithstanding the instruction of his license and -my particular request, Murdoch Cameron [see note 64, p. 66] had -taken liquor and sold it to the Indians on the river St. Peters, and -that his partner below had been equally imprudent. I pledged myself to -prosecute them according to law; for they have been the occasion of -great confusion and of much injury to the other traders. - -This day we met a canoe of Mr. Dickson's loaded with provision, under -the charge of Mr. Anderson, brother of Mr. [George] Anderson at Leech -Lake. He politely offered me any provision he had on board, for which -Mr. Dickson had given me an order; but not now being in want I did not -accept of any. This day, for the first time, I observed the trees -beginning to bud, and indeed the climate seemed to have changed very -materially since we passed the Falls of St. Anthony. - -_Sunday, Apr. 13th._ We embarked after breakfast. Messrs. Frazer and -Wood accompanied me. Wind strong ahead. They outrowed us--the first -boat or canoe we met with on the voyage able to do it; but then they -were double-manned and light. Arrived at the band of Aile Rouge [Red -Wing: see note 67, p. 69] at two o'clock, where we were saluted as -usual. - -We had a council, when he spoke with more detestation of the conduct -of the rascals at the mouth of the St. Peters than any man I had yet -heard. He assured me, speaking of the fellow who had fired on my -sentinel and threatened to kill me, that if I thought it requisite, he -should be killed; but as there were many chiefs above with whom he -wished to speak, he hoped I would remain one day, when all the Sioux -would be down, and I might have the command of a thousand men of them; -that I would probably think it no honor, but that the British used to -flatter them they were proud of having them for soldiers. I replied in -general terms, and assured him it was not for the conduct of two or -three rascals that I meant to pass over all the good treatment I had -received from the Sioux nation; but that in general council I would -explain myself. That as to the scoundrel who fired at my sentinel, had -I been at home the Sioux nation would never have been troubled with -him, for I would have killed him on the spot; but that my young men -did not do it, apprehensive that I would be displeased. I then gave -him the news of the Sauteurs, etc.; that as to remaining one day, it -would be of no service; that I was much pressed to arrive below, as my -general expected me, my duty called me, and the state of my provision -demanded the utmost expedition; that I would be happy to oblige him, -but my men must eat. He replied that, Lake Pepin being yet shut with -ice, if I went on and encamped on the ice it would not get me -provision; that he would send out all his young men the next day; and -that if the other bands did not arrive he would depart the day after -with me. In short, after much talk, I agreed to remain one day, -knowing that the lake was closed and that we could proceed only nine -miles if we went. - -This appeared to give general satisfaction. I was invited to different -feasts, and entertained at one by a person whose father had been -enacted a chief by the Spaniards. At this feast I saw a man called by -the French Roman Nose [Nez de Corbeau[III-31]], and by the Indians Wind -that Walks, who was formerly the second chief of the Sioux; but being -the cause of the death of one of the traders, seven years since, he -voluntarily relinquished that dignity, and has frequently requested to -be given up to the whites. But he was now determined to go to St. -Louis and deliver himself up, where he said they might put him to -death. His long repentance and the great confidence of the nation in -him would perhaps protect him from a punishment which the crime -merited. But as the crime was committed long before the United States -assumed its authority, and as no law of theirs could affect it, unless -it were ex post facto and had a retrospective effect, I conceived it -would certainly be dispunishable[III-32] now. I did not think proper, -however, to so inform him. I here received a letter from Mr. -Rollett,[III-33] partner of Mr. Cameron, with a present of some brandy, -coffee, and sugar. I hesitated about receiving those articles from the -partner of the man I intended to prosecute: their amount being -trifling, however, I accepted of them, offering him pay. I assured him -that the prosecution arose from a sense of duty, and not from any -personal prejudice. My canoe did not come up, in consequence of the -head wind. Sent out two men in a canoe to set fishing-lines; the canoe -overset, and had it not been for the timely assistance of the savages, -who carried them into their lodges, undressed them, and treated them -with the greatest humanity and kindness, they must inevitably have -perished. At this place I was informed that the rascal spoken of as -having threatened my life had actually cocked his gun to shoot me from -behind the hills, but was prevented by the others. - -_Apr. 14th._ Was invited to a feast by Roman Nose. His conversation -was interesting, and shall be detailed hereafter. The other Indians -had not yet arrived. Messrs. Wood, Frazer, and myself ascended a high -hill called the Barn [or La Grange; see note 68, p. 70], from which -we had a view of Lake Pepin, of the valley through which the -Mississippi by numerous channels wound itself to the St. Croix, the -Cannon river, and the lofty hills on each side. - -_Apr. 15th._ Arose very early and embarked about sunrise, much to the -astonishment of the Indians, who were entirely prepared for the -council when they heard I had put off. However, after some -conversation with Mr. Frazer, they acknowledged that it was agreeably -to what I had said, that I would sail early, and that they could not -blame me. I was very positive in my word, for I found it by far the -best way to treat the Indians. Aile Rouge had a beaver robe and pipe -prepared to present, but was obliged for the present to retain it. -Passed through Lake Pepin with my barges; the canoe being obliged to -lie by, did not come on. Stopped at a prairie on the right bank, -descending about nine miles below Lake Pepin. Went out to view some -hills which had the appearance of the old fortifications spoken of [by -Carver: see note of the Grand Encampment, p. 59]; but I will speak -more fully of them hereafter. In these hollows I discovered a flock of -elk; took out 15 men, but we were not able to kill any. Mr. Frazer -came up and passed on about two miles. We encamped together. Neither -Mr. Wood's nor my canoe arrived. Snowed considerably. - -_Apr. 16th._ Mr. Frazer's canoes and my boats sailed about one hour by -the sun. We waited some time, expecting Mr. Wood's barges and my -canoe; but hearing a gun fired just above our encampment, we were -induced to make sail. Passed Aile Prairie [Winona: note 57, p. 54], -also La Montagne qui Trompe a [Trempe à] L'eau, the prairie De Cross -[La Crosse], and encamped on the W. shore [at Brownsville], a few -hundred yards below where I had encamped on the [11th] day of -September, in ascending. Killed a goose flying. Shot at some pigeons -at our camp, and was answered from behind an island with two guns; we -returned them, and were replied to by two more. This day the trees -appeared in bloom. Snow might still be seen on the sides of the hills. -Distance 75 miles. - -_Apr. 17th._ Put off pretty early and arrived at Wabasha's band at -eleven o'clock, where I [was] detained all day for him [at Upper Iowa -river]; but he alone of all the hunters remained out all night. Left -some powder and tobacco for him. The Sioux presented me with a kettle -of boiled meat and a deer. I here received information that the Puants -had killed some white men below. Mr. Wood's and my canoe arrived. - -_Apr. 18th._ Departed from our encampment very early. Stopped to -breakfast at the Painted Rock. Arrived at Prairie Des Cheins at two -o'clock, and were received by crowds on the bank. Took up my quarters -at Mr. Fisher's. My men received a present of one barrel of pork from -Mr. Campbell, a bag of biscuit, 20 loaves of bread, and some meat from -Mr. Fisher. A Mr. Jearreau, from Cahokia, is here, who embarks -to-morrow for St. Louis. I wrote to General Wilkinson by him.[III-34] I -was called on by a number of chiefs, Reynards, Sioux of the Des Moyan -[Des Moines river], etc. The Winebagos were here intending, as I was -informed, to deliver some of the murderers to me. Received a great -deal of news from the States and Europe, both civil and military. - -_Apr. 19th._ Dined at Mr. Campbell's in company with Messrs. Wilmot, -Blakely, Wood, Rollet, Fisher, Frazer, and Jearreau. Six canoes -arrived from the upper part of St. Peters, with the Yanctong chiefs -from the head of that river. Their appearance was indeed savage, much -more so than any nation I have yet seen. Prepared my boat for sail. -Gave notice to the Puants that I had business to do with them the next -day. A band of the Gens Du Lac arrived. Took into my pay as -interpreter Mr. Y. [read J.] Reinville. - -_Sunday, Apr. 20th._ Held a council with the Puant chiefs, and -demanded of them the murderers of their nation;[III-35] they required -till to-morrow to consider it. I made a written demand of the -magistrates to take depositions concerning the late murders.[III-36] Had -a private conversation with Wabasha. - -This afternoon they had a great game of the cross on the prairie, -between the Sioux on the one side, and the Puants and Reynards on the -other. The ball is made of some hard substance and covered with -leather; the cross-sticks are round and net-work, with handles of -three feet long. The parties being ready, and bets agreed upon, -sometimes to the amount of some thousand dollars, the goals are set up -on the prairie at the distance of half a mile. The ball is thrown up -in the middle, and each party strives to drive it to the opposite -goal; when either party gains the first rubber, which is driving it -quick round the post, the ball is again taken to the center, the -ground changed, and the contest renewed; and this is continued until -one side gains four times, which decides the bet. It is an interesting -sight to see two or three hundred naked savages contending on the -plain who shall bear off the palm of victory; as he who drives the -ball round the goal is much shouted at by his companions. It sometimes -happens that one catches the ball in his racket, and depending on his -speed endeavors to carry it to the goal; when he finds himself too -closely pursued he hurls it with great force and dexterity to an -amazing distance, where there are always flankers of both parties -ready to receive it; it seldom touches the ground, but is sometimes -kept in the air for hours before either party can gain the victory. In -the game which I witnessed the Sioux were victorious--more, I believe, -from the superiority of their skill in throwing the ball than by their -swiftness, for I thought the Puants and Reynards the swiftest runners. - -_Apr. 21st._ Was sent for by La Feuille, and had a long and -interesting conversation with him, in which he spoke of the general -jealousy of his nation toward their chiefs; and said that although he -knew it might occasion some of the Sioux displeasure, he did not -hesitate to declare that he looked on Nez Corbeau [otherwise Raven -Nose and Roman Nose] as the man of most sense in their nation, and he -believed it would be generally acceptable if he was reinstated in his -rank. Upon my return I was sent for by Red Thunder,[III-37] chief of the -Yanctongs, the most savage band of the Sioux. He was prepared with the -most elegant pipes and robes I ever saw, and shortly declared, "That -white blood had never been shed in the village of the Yanctongs, even -when rum was permitted; that Mr. Murdoch Cameron arrived at his -village last autumn; that he invited him to eat, gave him corn as a -bird; that Cameron informed him of the prohibition of rum, and was the -only person who afterward sold it in the village." After this I had a -council with the Puants. Spent the evening with Mr. Wilmot, one of -the best informed and most gentlemanly men in the place. - -_Apr. 22d._ Held a council with the Sioux and Puants, the latter of -whom delivered up their [British] medals and flags. Prepared to depart -to-morrow. - -_Apr. 23d._ After closing my accounts, etc., at half past twelve -o'clock we left the Prairie; at the lower end of it were saluted by 17 -lodges of the Puants. Met a barge, by which I received a letter from -my lady. Further on met one batteau and one canoe of traders. Passed -one trader's camp. Arrived at Mr. Dubuque's at [mouth of Catfish -Creek, at] ten o'clock at night; found some traders encamped at the -entrance with 40 or 50 Indians; obtained some information from Mr. D., -and requested him to write me on certain points. After we had boiled -our victuals, I divided my men into four watches and put off, wind -ahead. Observed for the first time the half-formed leaves on the -trees. - -_Apr. 24th._ In the morning we used our oars until ten o'clock, and -then floated while breakfasting. At this time two barges, one bark, -and two wooden canoes passed us under full sail; by one of which I -sent back a letter to Mr. Dubuque that I had forgotten to deliver. -Stopped at dark to cook supper; after which, rowed under the windward -shore, expecting we could make headway with four oars; but were blown -on the lee shore in a few moments, when all hands were summoned, and -we again with difficulty made to windward, came-to, placed one sentry -on my bow, and all hands beside went to sleep. It rained, and before -morning the water overflowed my bed in the bottom of the boat, having -no cover or any extra accommodations, as it might have retarded my -voyage. The wind very hard ahead. - -_Apr. 25th._ Obliged to unship our mast to prevent its rolling -overboard with the swell. Passed the first Reynard village [near head -of Rock River rapids on the Iowan side] at twelve o'clock; counted 18 -lodges. Stopped at the prairie in descending on the left, about the -middle of the rapids, where there is a beautiful cove or harbor -[Watertown, Rock Island Co., Ill.]. There were three lodges of Indians -here, but none of them came near us. Shortly after we had left this, -observed a barge under sail, with the United States flag, which upon -our being seen put to shore on the Big [now Rock] Island, about three -miles above Stony [Rock] river, where I also landed. It proved to be -Capt. Many[III-38] of the Artillerists, who was in search of some Osage -prisoners among the Sacs and Reynards. He informed me that at the -[large Sac] village of Stony Point [near the mouth of Rock river] the -Indians evinced a strong disposition to commit hostilities; that he -was met at the mouth of the river by an old Indian, who said that all -the inhabitants of the village were in a state of intoxication, and -advised him to go up alone. This advice, however, he had rejected. -That when they arrived there they were saluted by the appellation of -the bloody Americans who had killed such a person's father, such a -person's mother, brother, etc. The women carried off the guns and -other arms, and concealed them. That he then crossed the river -opposite the village, and was followed by a number of Indians with -pistols under their blankets. That they would listen to no conference -whatever relating to the delivery of the prisoners, but demanded -insolently why he wore a plume in his hat, declared that they looked -on it as a mark of war, and immediately decorated themselves with -their raven's feathers, worn only in cases of hostility. We regretted -that our orders would not permit of our punishing the scoundrels, as -by a _coup de main_ we might easily have carried the village. Gave -Capt. Many a note of introduction to Messrs. Campbell, Fisher, Wilmot, -and Dubuque, and every information in my power. We sat up late -conversing. - -_Apr. 26th._ Capt. Many and myself took breakfast and embarked; wind -directly ahead, and a most tremendous swell to combat, which has -existed ever since we left the prairie. Capt. Many under full sail. -Descended by all the sinuosity of the shore, to avoid the strength of -the wind and force of the waves. Indeed I was confident I could sail -much faster up than we could possibly make down. Encamped on Grant's -prairie, where we had encamped Aug. 25th when ascending. There was one -Indian and family present, to whom I gave some corn. - -_Sunday, Apr. 27th._ It cleared off during the night. We embarked -early and came from eight or ten leagues above the river Iowa to the -[U. S. agricultural] establishment at the lower Sac village [at -Nauvoo, Ill., see Aug. 20th, 1805] by sundown, a distance of nearly 48 -leagues. Here I met with Messrs. Maxwell and Blondeau; took the -deposition of the former on the subject of the Indians' intoxication -at this place, for they were all drunk. They had stolen a horse from -the establishment, and offered to bring him back for liquor, but -laughed at them when offered a blanket and powder. Passed two canoes -and two barges. At the establishment received two letters from Mrs. -Pike. Took with us Corporal Eddy and the other soldier whom Capt. Many -had left. Rowed with four oars all night. A citizen took passage with -me. - -_Apr. 28th._ In the morning passed a wintering-ground where, from -appearance, there must have been at least seven or eight different -establishments. At twelve o'clock arrived at the French house -[Hurricane Settlement] mentioned in our voyage up, Aug. 16th [see note -13, that date]. Here we landed our citizen; his name was [Blank], -and he belonged to the settlement on Copper river. He informed me -there were about 25 families in the settlement. - -Stopped at some islands [note 12, Aug. 15th] about ten miles above -Salt river, where there were pigeon-roosts, and in about 15 minutes my -men had knocked on the head and brought on board 298. I had frequently -heard of the fecundity of this bird [_Ectopistes migratorius_[III-39]], -and never gave credit to what I then thought inclined to the -marvelous; but really the most fervid imagination cannot conceive -their numbers. Their noise in the woods was like the continued roaring -of the wind, and the ground may be said to have been absolutely -covered with their excrement. The young ones which we killed were -nearly as large as the old; they could fly about ten steps, and were -one mass of fat; their craws were filled with acorns and the wild pea. -They were still reposing on their nests, which were merely small -bunches of sticks joined, with which all the small trees were covered. - -Met four canoes of the Sacs, with wicker baskets filled with young -pigeons. They made motions to exchange them for liquor, to which I -returned the back of my hand. Indeed those scoundrels had become so -insolent, through the instigation of the traders, that nothing but the -lenity of our government and humanity for the poor devils could have -restrained me on my descent from carrying some of their towns by -surprise, which I was determined to have done had the information of -their firing on Capt. Many proved to have been correct. - -Put into the mouth of Salt river to cook supper, after which, although -raining, we put off and set our watches; but so violent a gale and -thunderstorm came on about twelve o'clock that we put ashore. -Discovered that one of my sleigh-dogs was missing. - -_Apr. 29th._ In the morning still raining, and wind up the river; -hoisted sail and returned to the mouth of the river, but neither here -nor on the shore could we find my dog. This was no little -mortification, as it broke the match, whose important services I had -already experienced, after having brought them so near home. We -continued on until twelve o'clock, when it ceased raining for a little -time, and we put ashore for breakfast. Rowed till sundown, when I set -the watch. Night fine and mild. - -_Apr. 30th._ By daylight found ourselves at the Portage de Sioux. I -here landed Captain Many's two men, and ordered them across by land to -the cantonment [Belle Fontaine, on the Missouri]. As I had never seen -the village, I walked up and through it; there are not more than 21 -houses at furthest, which are built of square logs. Met Lieut. -Hughes[III-40] about four miles above St. Louis,[III-41] with more than 20 -Osage prisoners, conveying them to the cantonment on the Missouri; he -informed me my friends were all well. Arrived about twelve o'clock at -the town, after an absence of eight months and 22 days. - -FOOTNOTES: - -[III-1] It is simple justice to Pike to state here that, in making this -widely erroneous statement, he reflected common report of his day, and -that he elsewhere himself qualifies the assertion. Thus, in his -general review of the Mississippi (which in the orig. ed. formed Doc. -No. 18, p. 41 _seq._ of the App. to Part 1), he says of the Leech Lake -branch: "This is rather considered as the main source, although the -Winipeque [read Winnibigoshish] branch is navigable the greatest -distance." If the volume of waters collected by Leech l. and then -contributed to the Mississippi were made the criterion, the true -Itascan source might have to look to its laurels. Deferring other -considerations to a more convenient connection, we may here confine -attention to the Leech Lake system. The lake itself is much the -largest body of water in the Mississippi basin above Mille Lacs, much -exceeding in size Lake Winnibigoshish, which itself much exceeds Lake -Cass. These three are the largest reservoirs of the whole drainage -area whose waters unite at the junction of the Leech Lake branch with -the main stream. This area, taken down to Pokegama falls, is about 80 -m. from E. to W. and 50 from N. to S.; its content is more than a -thousand lakes and rivers, few of which have been named. These are -quite clearly divided into two main sets, namely, those of the Leech -Lake system on the one hand, and all the rest on the other. Leech l. -is not much smaller than Red l. (of a different system); its greatest -diameter in one direction is over 20 m.; its figure is extremely -irregular, giving a shore-line said to be of about 160 m. length, with -9 principal salient re-entrances and 6 large bays; the feeders, large -and small, are 25-30 in number. The "fond du lac" is at that S. W. -place where the waters of Kabekona and other lakes discharge by the -Kabekona r., in Sect. 9, T. 142, R. 31, 5th M. This series affords, -with several portages, a tolerably direct approach to Lake Itasca, -which lies at an air-line distance of about 25 m. nearly due W. North -of the mouth of the Kabekona, in Sect. 9, T. 143, of the same R. and -M., the Kapukasagitowa, Pikesagidowag, or Bukesagidowag r. falls in -from the N. W. This point is only 7 m. directly S. of the southernmost -part of Cass l., and a chain of 10 small lakes here lies between Cass -and Leech, offering a waterway with some portages. Two of these small -lakes are Moss and Shiba of Schoolcraft; two others of them are his -Kapuka Sagitowa lakes. Further E. on the N. shore of Leech l. a river -falls in from the N. in Sect. 14, T. 144, R. 30. This is Carp r. of -Schoolcraft, draining from a chain of small lakes which approach the -Mississippi itself in that portion of its course which runs from Cass -to Winnibigoshish l. The N. E. extremity of Leech l., called Rush l. -by Schoolcraft and Pickering bay by Nicollet, reaches within 4 m. -(air-line) of Lake Winnibigoshish; there is a small lake between, -named Lake Duponceau by Nicollet, but now known as Portage l., from -the function indicated by this name. In fact it is easier to go from -Winnibigoshish over into Leech than from Cass over into the same. -Along the S. W., S., S. E., and E. shores of Leech l. is a succession -of affluents, some of the larger of which respectively establish -waterways of communication with Crow Wing r., with Pine r., and with -Willow r. The largest of these Leech l. tributaries is Kwiwisens or -Boy r., which offers by its system of lakes and portages the most -direct route by way of Willow r. to Sandy l. Some of the lakes along -this line are by Nicollet named Hassler, Gauss, Deluot, Eccleston, -Brûlé, and Rosati. One of the communications with Pine r. is made by -Sandy r., which falls into Leech l. from the S. (The Crow Wing -connections are noticed elsewhere in detail.) Leech l. discharges by -Leech Lake r. near its N. E. extremity, the outlet being in Sect. 29, -T. 144, R. 28, 5th M. The discharge is now controlled by a dam which, -like the similar structures at the outlet of Lake Winnibigoshish and -elsewhere, is designed to utilize the lakes as artificial reservoirs -to regulate the flow of the Mississippi according to the requirements -for navigation. Leech Lake r. is bowed into an arc whose chord is 16 -m. long; Mud l. lies in its course, as already said. The principal -projection of land into Leech l. from the N. is the well-known -Otter-tail pt.; opposite this, from the south, is Big pt.; continuous -with which, by a narrow isthmus, is a very extensive peninsula of -remarkable form, something like a badly shaped anchor or a distorted -letter T. This Tau-formed peninsula is the best known and most -historic place about the lake, as the site of a Chippewa village and -various other establishments, of which more anon. There are several -islands in Leech l.; the largest is Bear or Mukwa isl. (Macuwa of -Beltrami); two others are Pelican and Goose. Leech l. derives its -English name from the F. Lac Sang Sue, or L. aux Sangsues, originally -bestowed in compliment to the sanguisugent annelids with which it was -supposed to be peculiarly favored, by the Chippewas, who conveyed -their meaning in the voluble vocable Kasagaskwadjimekang. - -[III-2] Voy. en Égypte et en Syrie, etc., 2 vols., 8vo, Paris, 1787; tr. -Eng., London, 1787, etc. Constantin François Chasseboeuf, Comte de -Volney, b. Craon, Anjou, Feb. 3d, 1757, d. Paris, Apr. 25th, 1820, is -best known in letters by his celebrated work, commonly called -"Volney's Ruins," _i. e._, Les Ruines ou Méditations sur les -Révolutions des Empires, etc., orig. ed. 1791, numberless trans. and -eds. down to the present time. The illustrious author was the peer of -Voltaire or Paine in philosophy and religion, and underwent the usual -vicissitudes of free-thinkers of his time, from the prison to the -peerage. His intellect was clear and profound, his erudition vast and -varied; so they called him an "infidel"--whatever they may have meant -by that--and having given him the name would have hanged him had he -been hangable. His researches were chiefly in the fields of history, -geography, archæology, linguistics, statecraft, and priestcraft, all -of which he illuminated to the great inconvenience of political and -ecclesiastical demagogues. _Nullum tetigit quod non ornavit_; the -clergy, however, he adorned with a touch that Voltaire himself might -have envied. Count Volney was in the U. S. in 1795-6-7; his -controversy with the meritorious but somewhat obtuse Priestley, on the -unquestionable unorthodoxy of his Ruins, brought his more formal -scientific works into prominence, and accentuated the fame of his most -imperishable treatise. Cheap editions of the Ruins abound, usually -including the tract originally entitled La Loi Naturelle; this is a -little catechism designed by a great philosopher to kindly help little -fools out of some of their folly; it is quite worthy to rank with -Paine's Age of Reason. Volney's complete works were edited by A. -Bossange, 8 vols., Paris, 1820-26. Pike was in good company on the 3d, -while he nursed his sore feet. - -[III-3] This clerk is named Roussand beyond, Feb. 9th. He is "a Monsr. -Boussant" in the early text, 1807, p. 40. - -[III-4] We have no hint of the route by which the main party reached -Leech l. after Pike first left them on the 26th of Jan., unless one is -conveyed in the statement that Miller _returned_ with a supply of -provisions for them. That would seem to imply that they followed -Pike's trail, and came to Leech l. by a route the same as his, or one -not materially different. This is in fact what they did: see note -51, p. 142. The shorter way would have been that Willow River -traverse indicated in note 1, p. 153. What seems to have been a usual -route in former days is clearly indicated on Nicollet's map. Starting -from Sandy l. it struck W. to Willow r. and went up this to Rosati and -Brulé lakes, whence by portage over to Eccleston or Deluot l., and so -to the Boy's River connection, continued through Gauss and Hassler -lakes. All these have different names now, and I cannot speak with -confidence in the new nomenclature. Among the lakes of Nicollet's -series appear to be those now called Big Rice, Thunder, and Boy. - -[III-5] This letter formed Doc. No. 5, on p. 14 of the App. to Pt. 1 of -the orig. ed. It is given beyond, together with Mr. M'Gillis' reply; -which latter was Doc. No. 6, p. 17 of the same App. in the orig. ed. - -[III-6] This is the first intimation we have that Pike is not already at -the west end, or at any rate on the west side of Leech l. He certainly -has told us that he "crossed the lake 12 miles" to reach Mr. M'Gillis' -house, where he is now quartered. The only place marked on Pike's map -is on the W. side, with the legend "N. W. C^o. Ho. Lat. 47° 16' 18" -N." The position of this seems to have been near Sugar pt., and to be -the same as that marked "Old N. W. House" on Lt. James Allen's map -facing p. 76 of Schoolcraft's Rep. pub. 1834. There have been various -trading-houses at the same and different points about Leech l., -simultaneously and successively. In 1832, according to Schoolcraft's -large map in the work just said, there was a "Tr. Post" on the E. side -of the lake, between the outlet and Boy's r., but the principal one -was on the Tau-formed peninsula, and was a post of the Am. Fur Co. -Schoolcraft was camped there July 16th, 1832. This place was then also -the site of the Chippewa village of Gueule Platte or Flat Mouth, a -chieftain of whom Pike has something to say soon, and of whom -Nicollet, who met him there in 1836, has told us somewhat, Rep. 1843, -p. 61 _seq._ - -[III-7] The Sweet of the above paragraph is elsewhere named by Pike as -Wiscoup and Le Sucre, first chief of a Red Lake band of Chippewas; The -Burnt, as Oole and La Brule, for which latter phrase I suppose Le -Brûlé might be preferred by some fastidious persons. The Buck is Iaba -Waddik of Schoolcraft, Summary, etc., 1855, p. 144. The Sweet was -probably not so named from any such personal peculiarity as would have -singled him out among all Indians of whatever tribe, but with -reference in some way to the concrete juice of the sugar-maple, _Acer -saccharinum_, upon which he fed: _cf._ Sugar pt., a place-name in this -vicinity. This is evidently the poetical case of "sweets to The -Sweet"--not of _saccharum per se_. The scholarly Anglojibway, Hon. W. -W. Warren, who should know best how to spell Chippewa words of any -author I have read, gives the name as Weeshcoob. This chief had great -character, and a long career. For some of his exploits which became -historical, see Minn. Hist. Coll., V. 1885, pp. 231, 376, 452, 454, -458--latter with esp. ref. to Pike. - -[III-8] Haut Lac aux Cèdres Rouges of the French, Upper Red Cedar l. of -the English, in distinction from the one of like name much further -down the Mississippi, near Aitkin: see note 47, p. 135. Pike is -careless about the names, and calls both lakes Red Cedar, or Cedar -without further qualification. The valuable species of _Juniperus_, -commonly known as "cedar" or "red cedar," is not a very abundant tree -in N. Minnesota, and its prevalence about each of these lakes -duplicated their designation. They are too far apart, luckily, for any -confusion to have ever arisen. Pike's description of Up. R. C. l. is -not good, and his map is so far out as to omit entirely the entrance -of the Mississippi into this lake; for what he delineates as and -mistook for the entrance of the main river is merely the discharge of -the Turtle River chain of lakes from the Beltramian or so-called -Julian source of the Mississippi, which falls in at the extreme N. -border of the lake. Thus, what the text means by saying "from the -entrance of the Mississippi to the streight is called six miles," is -the distance from the mouth of Turtle r. to the strait which divides -off Pike's bay from the rest of Cass l.; "thence to the south end," -etc., is the length of Pike's bay; the "bay at the entrance" of the -supposed Mississippi, _i. e._, of Turtle r., means the general recess -of Cass l. on the N.; and finally, the "large point," given as 2½ m. -"from the north side," is the point of Colcaspi or Grand isl., which -is almost a peninsula, and which marks off Allen's bay from the rest -of Cass l. With this much by way of comment on Pike, we will look -further at this interesting body of water, which I have lately crossed -twice. Its first English name, after the ones above given, was Lake -Cassina, bestowed by Schoolcraft in 1820, in honor of Governor and -General Lewis Cass (b. Exeter, N. H., Oct. 9th, 1782, d. Detroit, -Mich., June 17th, 1866), leader of the expedition which made its -nearest approach to the true source of the Miss. r., in July of that -year. Their camp was on the N. shore, close by the mouth of Turtle r., -on the W. side of that mouth, directly opposite the site of the N. W. -Co. Ho. where Pike now is. The name "Cassina Lake" stands on the -Schlcr. map of the 1820 Cass exped.; item, "Cassina L." is on Long's -map, 1823; the adj. Cassinian also occurs in Schlcr. and elsewhere; -but the latter afterward clipped the name to Cass, and it has become -fixed in this form--the same as that of the county later dedicated -appropriately to this eminent statesman and soldier. The Schlcr. map -of 1820 also lays down the Turtle River system with approximate -accuracy, and on this map was first traced the course of the -Mississippi to Lake Itasca. This had not then received its present -name, but stands there as "L. Labeish," _i. e._, Lac La Biche, or Lac -à la Biche, translating the Chippewa Omoshkos Sogiagon, and translated -Elk l. in English. The main defect of the 1820 map was in laying down -the Itascan source to the N. W. instead of to the S. W. of Cass -l.--thus really on the line of the Turtle River source. This mistake -was corrected in 1832, the year that Schoolcraft's party were guided -to Lake Itasca itself by the Chippewa chief, Ozawindib or Yellow Head. -Schoolcraft's nomenclature, as far as possible, was accepted by the -greatest geographer who ever saw the source of the Mississippi, and -Nicollet's example in this respect has been generally followed. Cass -is a beautiful lake, the third largest in the drainage-area of the -uppermost Mississippi, being exceeded in size only by Winnibigoshish -and Leech. The greatest length is nearly meridional; including Pike's -bay it is 9¾ m.; the greatest breadth is almost due E. and W.; -including Allen's bay it is 7½ m. In position with reference to the -5th meridian (the only one with which we have to do in this note), the -Range line of townships 30-31, and the Township line of 145-146, -decussate at right angles in the center of the lake, just off the E. -shore of Colcaspi isl. The body of water thus occupies portions of -four townships. In figure Cass l. is more irregular than Lake -Winnibigoshish, less so than Leech l. Pike's bay, on the S., is almost -shut off from the rest of the lake by a long, narrow peninsula which -stretches nearly across from E. to W., leaving but a very narrow -thoroughfare. Pike's bay is of rounded form, about 3 m. in any -diameter. Allen's bay, on the W., is almost equally well marked off by -Colcaspi isl.; it is 2-1/3 m. long, with an average width of over a -mile, and includes two small islands, named Elm and Garden. Red Cedar -isl. lies in the S. E. part of the main body of water; but the most -conspicuous feature of the lake is the island best known as Grand or -Colcaspi. The latter curious name is one of those verbal wind-eggs -which Schoolcraft was fond of hatching; he tells us it is compounded -of fragments of the names of "the three prior explorers," meaning Cass -and himself, 1820, and Pike, 1806. This Island of Ozawindib, as named -by Brower, 1894, is shaped like a blacksmith's anvil or molar tooth; -its greatest diameters, along conjugate diagonal axes, are 2¾ and 2½ -m.; aside from its horns, the island would yield a square of about 1¼ -m. The Chippewa village of Ozawindib, where Schoolcraft was camped -July 10th and again July 15th--between which dates he went to Itasca -and back--was on the N. E. point of the anvil. I should advise -canoeists to give this point a wide berth; for a shoal runs far out -northward, and the birch-bark may thump on a stony bottom if there is -any sea. This shoal reaches out directly across the straightest -traverse from the inlet to the outlet of the Mississippi. Ozawindib -isl. is almost a peninsula in relation to the north shore of the lake, -but a canoe can generally be floated across the isthmus. I waded and -dragged my boat on going up, but on returning was obliged to make a -portage of a few paces, as the water had lowered. But even if it be -found a carrying-place, it is the shortest and best way across the -lake from the inlet of the Mississippi, either to its outlet or to the -inlet of Turtle r. The latter falls in at the extreme N. of the lake, -2½ m. W. N. W. from the outlet of the Mississippi, in the N. E. ¼ of -Sect. 18, T. 146, R. 30. Here came David Thompson in 1798, along the -usual traders' route from the Red River country, in part the then -supposed course of the Mississippi itself above Red Cedar l. Here, in -Roy's N. W. Co. House, on the E. or left bank, is Pike this 12th of -February, 1806. Here were Cass and Schoolcraft in 1820; here came -Beltrami in 1823, down this same Turtle r. from his Lake Julia, and so -from the Julian source of the Mississippi. A mission once stood here; -there is now an Indian village at a little distance westward. The -place may be recognized at a distance by a high ridge on the right or -W. bank; and on nearer approach by a stout post with historical -inscriptions, erected by Brower in August, 1894. About a mile up -Turtle r. expands into a lake, called Kichi by Nicollet in 1836, and -by error Kitihi, as on Brower's map of 1892. No other considerable -stream enters Cass l., excepting the Mississippi itself. The -Mississippi leaves the lake in a recess on the N. E. shore, easy to -find by good land-marks--notice a clump of trees on the right of the -outlet as you approach it, and a house on the first rising ground to -the left. The position is in the N. E. ¼ of Sect. 21, T. 146, R. 30. -From this point the river flows nearly E. S. E. into Lake -Winnibigoshish (makes 2-2/3 m. of southing in 8¼ m. of easting--air-line -about 9 m.). The general course is about straight, but the reciprocal -bends are numerous, giving an actual course, as I should judge, of 16¾ -m., though they call it 18. This is Cass r. or Red Cedar r.--the most -beautiful part of the Mississippi--good flat water and plenty of it at -the lowest stages of canoeing, with a moderate current and no rapids, -shoals, or snags to speak of; also, good camping places all along on -the wooded points or knolls. The only tributary of this "interlaken" -course of the Mississippi is from the S., about halfway between Cass -and Winnibigoshish; being the discharge from Horn l. (Eshkabwaka l. of -Owen), ¾ of a mile (direct) E. of the boundary between Itasca and -Beltrami cos., in the S. E. ¼ of Sect. 30, T. 146, R. 29. - -Pike at Leech l. was the nearest he ever went to the true source of -the Mississippi--about 25 m. in an air-line E. of Lake Itasca. Pike at -Cass l. is further away from this goal, but he is on the course of the -great river. Having already noted the Leech Lake sub-basin, or what I -call the Pikean source, I will with the reader's indulgence indicate -the main features of the true Itascan or Nicolletian sub-basin. To -this end we will start together from Cass l. and paddle our own canoe -to Lake Itasca. The following observations are from my canoe voyage -from Deer River to Lake Itasca and return, Aug. 15th-Sept. 3d, 1894: - -The Mississippi enters Cass l. at the W. end of Allen's bay, by a -crooked =S=-shaped thoroughfare about a mile long, from the next lake -above. The inlet into Cass opens in the center of Sect. 29, T. 146, R. -31; the outlet from the other lake is in the N. W. ¼ of the same -section. So close, in fact, are the two lakes, that at two places they -are only separated by 100 yards or less. At the northern one of these -short portages stands a dilapidated old chapel, once a mission-house, -and other buildings are scattered about, chiefly Chippewa cabins. I -could learn no name for this next lake, though it appears to be the -one Schoolcraft called Andrusia in 1855; but if so, the name has -lapsed. A letter before me from Hon. J. V. Brower, Itasca State Park -Commissioner, dated St. Paul, Sept. 15th, 1894, says: "The beautiful -body of water situated upon Sects. 7, 8, 17, 18, 19, 20, 29, and 30, -T. 146, R. 31, 5th M., above Cass lake, and through which the -Mississippi takes its course, has this day been named by me Lake -Elliott Coues, as a slight recognition of your services to the public, -and for the purposes of a more accurate and correct geographical -description." This lake is 3½ m. long by 1¼ m. in greatest breadth, -with its long axis meridional. The Mississippi runs across its S. end -about ¾ of a mile from W. to E., the inlet being in the N. W. ¼ of -Sect. 30 of the same T. and R. as the outlet. A trader's house is on -the N. side, in a Chippewa village. A winding course of the -Mississippi of 2 m. brings us to another lake, Pamitascodiac or -Tascodiac of Schoolcraft, and Vandermaelen of Nicollet. This is -hourglass-shaped, 2¼ m. long by about a mile across either bulb. The -Mississippi enters it at the N. and leaves it at the E., the inlet and -outlet being within half a mile of each other, in Sect. 25, T. 146, R. -32. For 2 or 3 m. above Lake Tascodiac canoeing is easy, through the -flat water of marsh and meadow land; but then begins the trouble which -hardly intermits thence to Lake Bemidji. The canoeist may as well put -on his rubber boots at the start and keep them on, for he will have to -wade most of the way and drag or shove his boat through almost -incessant rocky rapids, shoals, and snags. My canoe drew only about 3 -inches of water when my man and myself were overboard, yet we had -great difficulty in getting along at all without portaging. Where the -water is flat, it is shoal and snaggy; otherwise it is all "Metoswa" -rapids. The distance from Lake Tascodiac to Lake Bemidji is only 8 m. -in an air line, but this is the chord of a considerable arc the river -describes northward, which, with the minor bends around the wooded -points, makes, as I judge, about 13½ m. of water-course. The people -call it 20 m., but that is because it is such a hard road to travel. -It took me a day and a quarter to make Bemidji from Elliott Coues; but -I did the same distance in less than one day coming down. Beltrami -calls this course "Demizimagua-maguen-sibi, or River of Lake -Traverse," II. p. 434--which reminds me to say that among the Indians -each section of the river between lakes takes the name of the lake -whence it flows. The Bemidji section of the Mississippi issues from -the lake of that name in the N. W. ¼ of Sect. 2, T. 146, R. 33, near -the middle of the E. shore. This outlet is hidden in a maze of -bulrushes, and as there is no conspicuous landmark on shore it is not -easy to find. Lake Bemidji is a large body of water 5½ m. long N. and -S., by 1¾ to 2½ m. broad, of somewhat pyriform figure, lying athwart -the course of the Mississippi: whence the F. name Lac Traverse, which -we render Traverse, Travers, and Cross lake; Schl. named it Queen -Anne's l. in 1855. Among the Indian forms are Pamitchi, as -Schoolcraft; Pemidji, as Nicollet; also Bermiji, Permidji, etc., and -with an additional element Bemejigemug, Pamajiggermug, etc. The N. end -of Bemidji is only 2½ m. from the S. end of Turtle l., so that the -Julian sources may be here easily reached by portage. From the outlet -as above described to the inlet is 2¾ m. on a S. W. course; for the -Mississippi enters at the extreme S. W. angle, in the N. W. ¼ of Sect. -16, T. 146, R. 33. Here are some Chippewa cabins, and here is also the -lair of one of the ferocious blood-sucking parasites of the tribe of -Indian traders. The system only differs from robbery in name. For -instance, the squaw-man will sell you a whitefish for 10 cents a -pound. He bought that fish for two cents a pound from the Indian who -caught it, and he also paid for it in goods at his own price, probably -about five times their cost to him. Those old traders who were -satisfied to make 250 per cent. on prime cost were meek and lowly -philanthropists in comparison with some of their successors. A short -wide thoroughfare of about 40 rods leads directly from Bemidji into -Lake Irving, so named by Schoolcraft in 1832 after the facile writer, -and still so called. This is only 1½ m. broad by ¾ long, lying chiefly -in Sects. 16 and 17; the Mississippi comes directly across its short -axis from S. to N. The inlet is at the S. E. corner of Sect. 17. On -Nicollet's published map "L. Irving" appears out of place altogether, -on another stream. But that is a mere accident of cartography, for -which the admirable geographer is not responsible; he knew where Lake -Irving is as well as I do. Three short bends and then a straight -course of a mile bring us up the Mississippi to the mouth of a river -from the S., to be particularly noted for several reasons. It is the -largest remaining tributary of the Mississippi, and one of its sources -is a lake no more than 5 m. from Itasca itself. This river joins the -Mississippi in the S. E. of Sect. 20, T. 146, R. 33. Going up it we at -once fall upon the very small Lake Marquette; next, Lake La Salle -(Lasale on Nicollet's map), larger and hourglass-shaped; next, Lake -Plantagenet, a two-legged body of water, 2¾ m. long by 1¾ broad. The -first two were named in 1832 by Schoolcraft, who also said the largest -one was called Kubba Kunna, or Rest in the Path l.--these terms -becoming Rahbahkanna and Resting l. in Allen. Continuing through Lake -Plantagenet and up this "Plantagenian source" of the Mississippi, as -it has come to be known, we find that it forks in Sect. 21, T. 144, R. -34, at a direct distance of 7 or 8 m. from Lake Plantagenet. The fork -on our left as we go up takes us 5 or 6 m. further to Lake Naiwa, -called Neway l. by Nicollet, and recently renamed Lake George. -Alongside and emptying into this is Nicollet's L. Bowditch, lately -renamed L. Paine. These two are in Sects. 15, 19, 22, and 21, T. 143, -R. 34. Going up the other fork, we find in about 3 m. that it forks. -The fork on our left as we go up comes N. from a number of small -lakes, one of them lately become known as Lake Chenowagesic; and this -is probably to be considered the main course of the river we are now -on. The other fork comes from the west; if we follow it up we proceed -directly toward Lake Itasca, and find our stream heading in a lake -which occupies portions of Sects. 2 and 11, T. 143, R. 35. This is -Lake Assawa--Ossowa and Usawa of Schoolcraft, Usaw-way or Perch of -Allen, Assawe of Nicollet; also, Lake Alice of the Rand-McNally map -(Chicago, 1894), whose compilers adopted the names bestowed by a -certain unfortunate excursionist. Another name this unhappy person -gave this same lake is Elvira. It is historically of the greatest -possible interest, for from Lake Assawa did Schoolcraft's party -proceed by portage to discover Lake Itasca in 1832, and from it also -did Nicollet proceed by portage to Lake Itasca in 1836, and so on to -discover the actual source of the Mississippi, which Schoolcraft -missed in his hurry on that happy-go-lucky 13th of July. As to the -name which the whole stream thus sketched should bear, there may be -two opinions. Schoolcraft maps it with the legend "Plantagenian or -South Fork of the Mississippi," and makes the Assawa Lake fork the -main source, calling the Naiwa Lake fork by the name of this lake. -Nicollet names the main stream R. Laplace, after the celebrated -astronomer, as he did L. Bowditch after the translator of that -author's Mécanique Céleste; and he considers the main stream to be -that middle one which comes from the Chenowagesic l., furthest from -the S. (over the border of Hubbard Co., in fact). This view is -undoubtedly correct, and I, for one, should like to see Nicollet's -designation of Laplace r. stand. But the river is in fact called the -Naiwa, and this current designation will probably prevail. I observe -that our best maps in the present uncertainty omit any name, though -the Rand-McNally map legends "Schoolcraft R." (after Eastman's, 1855). -Should the main stream come to be known to geographers as the Naiwa, I -would suggest that its E. fork be called the East Naiwa, agreeably -with Schoolcraft's, 1832; and the other the West Naiwa. - -We return from this excursion up the Naiwa or Laplace r.--the -Plantagenian source of the Mississippi--and proceed up the latter from -the mouth of the former. We hold a due W. course on the whole for 5½ -m. in an air-line, but on a zigzag with multitudinous minor -tortuosities, making the distance more than twice as far; part of the -way winding among wooded points, working our way over shoals and among -snags, to a point in the N. W. ¼ of Sect. 28, T. 146, R. 34. Here the -small Allenoga r., on our right from the north, discharges from a -small, crooked lake which lies mainly in Sects. 16 and 21. Knowing no -name for this, I call it Cowhorn l., from its shape and from the -trivial circumstance of finding a horn stuck on a stake in the river. -We go on through a monotonous, swampy tract of reeds, rushes, wild -rice, and lily-pads, alternately approaching and receding from tamarac -clumps as the river winds about, for 2½ m. further W. in an air-line, -and more than three times that distance in actual paddling, till we -reach some haying-meadows, and soon find the entrance of a notable -stream on our right, in the N. E. ¼ of Sect. 25, T. 146, R. 35; this -is Pinidiwin r. (Pinnidiwin, Carnage, and De Soto r. of Schoolcraft, -Piniddiwin of Brower), through a lake about a mile wide, filled with a -fine crop of wild rice. Hence it is one of many lakes which are called -La Folle, Rice, or Manomin (Monomina on the Rand-McNally map); but it -had better keep the distinctive name of the river which flows through -it. I paddled up into Pinidiwin l., and was surprised at the volume of -water it discharged, as well as at the strength of its current. But -the river is a large, forked stream which drains a very extensive area -N. of the Mississippi. The volume of the Mississippi seemed diminished -nearly one-half above the mouth of this "Little Mississippi." The -course up the Mississippi is now S. W. to a point in the S. E. ¼ of -Sect. 35, T. 146, R. 35; where, at a bend, it receives a sizable -tributary from the S. Nicollet charts this stream, but has no name for -it, and I know of none, excepting that suspicious "Hennepin R." which -appears on the same Rand-McNally map, so thoroughly vitiated by -countenancing the names given by a dishonest person. Hennepin r. rises -as far south as about the middle of T. 144, R. 35, and flows nearly -due northward; one of its tributaries comes from a certain Lake -Joliet, the name of which arose with the same trickster. Rounding the -bend here we go up N. W. into the middle of Sect. 28, T. 146, R. 35, -and turn S. W. to the corner of this section, on the property of Mr. -A. J. Jones, a _bona fide_ settler and cultivator of the soil. The -situation is also marked by a small creek (say Jones') which falls in -hard by from the W.; but it is more notable as a sort of "Great Bend" -of the Mississippi; for here is the place where, our course thus far -having been on the whole westward, we turn quite abruptly southward to -make for Lake Itasca, distant about 14 m. as the crow flies, but at -least twice as far as that by the way we paddle. It has been good flat -water, with no obstructions to speak of, for many miles back; but a -little distance above Jones' place we come to rocky rapids for half a -mile, reminding us of our experiences below Lake Bemidji. I do not -think that these, but that some of those higher up, are the rapids -where Allen's boat was wrecked on the 15th of July, 1832, though -Schoolcraft talks of having come "32" m. from Itasca on the 14th, -before the accident. As we proceed, other obstacles offer; snags -abound, the Mississippi becomes in places too shallow to float a -canoe, and in others bushes begin to meet across the channel, or -fallen logs require to be chopped out of the way. We pass an -insignificant creek on the right, and then soon sight quite an -imposing pine-clad ridge on the left. Here, in the S. W. ¼ of Sect. -19, T. 145, R. 35, is the mouth of a creek on the left. This is marked -on Schoolcraft's map "Cano R.", _i. e._, Canot or Canoe r., also Ocano -(Au Canot), and Chemaun r. It is charted by Nicollet, without any -name. It has been described by Brower as Andrus cr., is on Eastman's -map (1855) as De Witt Clinton's r., and was once named La Salle r. by -an unscrupulous person. Above Andrus cr., in the S. E. ¼ of Sect. 26 -of the tp. last said, a small creek comes in on the right, at "Dutch -Fred's" place. I heard a man call it Bear cr. Here the Mississippi -enters (or rather leaves) a haying-meadow, and within a mile receives -a small creek on our left, from the S., locally known as Killpecker or -Chillpecker cr. It is less than a mile hence to the house of one -Searles, in the S. W. ¼ of Sect. 35, T. 145, R. 35. There is still -visible evidence that this was the site of an old trading-post; and on -discussing the case with my friend Brower, I agreed with his -conclusion that it was most probably the very spot we hear of from -William Morrison, who was the first known of white men at Lake Itasca, -in 1804. From this place upward to Lake Itasca the Mississippi is -practically unnavigable, at least in such a low stage of water as that -I found--not so much on account of the extensive rapids as from snags -and brush. The distance is called 20 m.--even 25 m., if one wants you -to hire his wagon--but it is nothing of the sort; 12 m. would cover -it. The air-line from Searles' house to Itasca is just 6 m., and -though the river is tortuous, besides having a general westward curve, -it can hardly be more than twice as much. One creek on this course, -called Division cr. by Brower, falls in from the W. in the S. W. ¼ of -Sect. 27, T. 144, R. 36. A wagon-road leads from Searles' due S. to -the lower end of the N. arm of Lake Itasca. The distance is about 7 m. -by this road, which keeps on the ridge E. of the Mississippi till it -ends at the lake, close by the outlet, in the S. W. ¼ of Sect. 35, T. -144, R. 36, thus almost on the line between T. 144 and T. 143, which -cuts the end of the N. arm, and forms the N. boundary of Itasca State -Park. Here Brower discovered the site of a prehistoric village in -Oct., 1894. - -This park, created by Act of the Minnesota Legislature, approved Apr. -20th, 1891, is 7 m. N. and S. by 5 m. E. and W., thus being 35 square -miles, 19,701-2/3 acres, consisting of Sects. 1, 2, 3, 4, 9, 10, 11, -12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 33, 34, 35, 36, of -T. 143, R. 36, in Beltrami Co., with Sects. 1, 2, 3, 4, of T. 142, R. -36, in Becker Co., Sects. 6, 7, 18, 19, 30, 31, of T. 143, R. 35, and -Sect. 6, of T. 142, R. 35--these in Hubbard Co. The rectangle thus -delimited includes nearly all the natural features about to be noted, -in the area designated as the ultimate reservoir bowl of the -Mississippi by Brower, to whose admirable official report I am -indebted for some particulars which did not come under my personal -observation on the spot, Aug. 24th and 25th, 1894. The brim of the -bowl is the Height of Land, Nicollet's Hauteurs des Terres, _sc._ -between Hudsonian and Mexican waters; for all the water in the bowl -runs into the Mississippi. The political boundary of the park is less -than conterminous with the area of this bowl. The latter is -conveniently divided into the greater and lesser segments, according -to whether the waters drain into the W. or the E. arm of Lake Itasca; -the greater segment contains the primal sources of the Mississippi. -The brim of the bowl has a maximum elevation of 1,750 feet above -sea-level. The southernmost lake in the bowl is Brower's Hernando de -Soto, supposed to be 2,555¼ m. from the Gulf of Mexico, at an altitude -of 1,558 feet. Another is Morrison l. There are too many other small -lakes to mention, mostly beyond or beside any actual permanent surface -connection with the Mississippian stream; two little ones which come -very near to such connection are Whipple and Floating Moss. The -Mississippi springs from the ground under a hill which I call the -Verumontanum; the first collection of living waters, or what may be -termed Fons et Origo Springs, occurs about the contiguous corners of -Sects. 28/33|27/34, T. 143, R. 36. The rill which issues thence runs -northward in Sects. 27 and 28, collecting there in a pool worthily -named by Brower the Upper Nicollet l., after the keen-eyed geographer -who first spied and mapped it in connection with his immortal -discovery of the Mississippian Verum Caput. But this Lacus Superior -Nicolleti is not now connected by surface flowage with the -continuation of the Mississippi; Brower is correct in designating its -feeder as the "detached upper fork" of the Mississippi; for the Upper -Nicollet l. is separated by a dry ridge a few yards wide, forming a -sort of "natural bridge," under or through which water seeps, but over -which it certainly never flows. Stepping a few paces over this Pons -Naturalis, we descend into a boggy place where the several Nicollet -Springs issue from the ground and form a rill whose waters are -continuous to the Gulf of Mexico. If one wishes to "cover" the -Mississippi in any sense, one may do so literally here, where the -river is a few inches wide and fewer deep, by lying at full length on -both sides of the stream and drinking out of the channel. This rivulet -is the principal feeder of the Middle Nicollet l., which is of oval -figure, less than -1/3 of a mile long, lying chiefly in the S. E. ¼ of -Sect. 21. The outlet of this lake is close to the inlet, by a -well-defined stream say -1/3 of a mile long, which starts W., receives -a small tributary called Howard cr. from the S., and then curves N. -into the Lower Nicollet l., 1/6 m. E. of the Middle l. This is in size -between the Upper and Middle lakes; it receives two rills, one of them -called Spring Ridge cr.; the Mississippi issues from the N. end of -this lake, and thence pursues a general N. E. course for about ¾ of a -mile in an air-line, though crookedly and with several small bends, to -fall into the head of the W. arm of Lake Itasca, in the S. W. ¼ of -Sect. 15. On its way it receives Demaray cr. from the W. Thus is -constituted, entirely above or S. of Lake Itasca, the Infant -Mississippi, discovered by Nicollet in 1836, and by him poetically -styled the Cradled Hercules. The cradle is now known as Nicollet -valley; it is bounded on the W. by the Hauteurs des Terres, now -Nicollet Heights, and on the E. by a long, curved, and somewhat broken -ridge, which I propose to call Brower Ridge, after the accomplished -gentleman whose name will always be associated with the history and -geography of the Itasca basin. This ridge is the best walking from -Itasca toward the Fons et Origo Springs--though in the present state -of the ground this is not saying much in its favor, yet this way is -less laborious than following up the Infant Mississippi. The N. end of -the ridge rises on Morrison hill, which overlooks Itasca on the one -hand and on the other gives a fine view of Elk l.; it is only a few -steps down to either lake from the summit, where stands the Brower -post of 1887 with its historical inscription, a sign-board -commemorating Nicollet, and a granite bowlder more durably graven with -a less enduring name (not Glazier). Elk l. is the largest body of -water in the bowl after Itasca, being of irregular oval figure, about -1 m. long by two-thirds as broad. It lies almost entirely in Sect. 22, -immediately S. of the head of the W. arm of Itasca, and thus alongside -the Herculean Incunabula, from which it is separated by Brower Ridge. -Elk l. has the bad luck of a bad name, with the more serious -misfortune of a vainglorious record of "exploitation." In the first -place the name--with due deference to Gen. J. H. Baker, who in 1876 -caused "Elk" to become official on the plot of T. 143, R. 36--seems to -me badly chosen. For "Elk" was originally the English name of Lake -Itasca, translating F. Lac la Biche, and Chippewa Omoshkos Sogiagon; -so its transfer to the smaller lake is liable to create confusion. -Better Gilfillan's Lake Breck, 1881, or Chippewa Gagiwitadinag -(embosomed in hills). In the second place a certain unworthy person -magnified the size of this lake, stretched out its principal feeder -southward, lengthened, widened, and deepened its discharge into -Itasca, labeled it Lake Glazier, and trumpeted his false claim of -discovering the one and only true source of the Mississippi, to the -scandal of geographical societies and other learned bodies. The best -_mot_ I ever heard on this subject was given me by a native of Deer -River, whose remark, however, is withheld, on the well-known principle -that "the greater the truth the greater the libel." Elk l. was well -described in 1872 by Julius Chambers, who called it Lake Dolly Varden; -its discharge into Itasca is now known as Chambers' cr. This is a -small side-stream about 333 yards long, in the bed of which I walked -dry-shod, yet which has been exploited as the course of the -Mississippi. Elk l. has several feeders, among them three creeks -called Elk, Siegfried, and Gaygwedosay--the latter for Nicollet's -guide of 1836, whom Nicollet calls Kegwedzissag. All the features thus -far noted are in the greater ultimate reservoir bowl, in relation with -the W. arm of Lake Itasca. Turning to the lesser part of the bowl, -whose waters drain into the E. arm, we find a chain of small lakes, -whose names from S. to N. are Josephine, Ako, Danger, Twin, and -Mary--the last having continuous surface flow by Mary cr. into the -head of the E. arm. Such, in brief, are the main features of the -Mississippian waters which drain from the S. into Lake Itasca; but I -suppose there are a hundred little lakes or pools in the bowl, which -seep through the bibulous soil--in fact, this flowing bowl is full of -lees. The largest lake, which forms its strongest feature, is of a -three-pronged or triradiate figure--mostly arms, with little body, -like a star-fish. It is said that the early name refers to the head -and antlers of the elk, respectively represented by the three -projections. There is not very much difference in size and shape -between them, though each has its particular form. Where the three -prongs come together as the main body of this lake is the small but -picturesque Schoolcraft isl., where the party of 1832 camped July -13th, as Nicollet did in Aug., 1836; it is decidedly the most eligible -spot for the purpose, before making one's periplus of the lake. The -island is in Sect. 11, T. 143, R. 36; its absolute position has been -dead-reckoned by Mr. A. J. Hill to be lat. 47° 13' 10" N., long. 95° -12' W. Mr. Brower has this summer (1894) set up a very stanch oaken -commemoration post, which bears a suitable legend and looks as if it -might stand for a century. The island was named by Allen (Rep., p. -332). Near it is a shallow place called Rocky Shoal. The lake is 3-2/3 -m. in greatest length from the end of the N. to that of the E. arm; -the ends of the E. and W. arms are 2-2/3 m. apart. The W. arm is -marked off by Ozawindib pt., the E. arm by Bear pt., and Turnbull pt. -projects into the latter arm about opposite the place where Nicollet -struck the lake in portaging over from Lake Assawa. The best view of -the lake is to be had from Rhodes' Hill, near the base of the E. arm. -Itasca has several feeders besides Mary cr., Chambers' cr., and the -Infant Mississippi; four of these are Island cr., from the W., -opposite Schoolcraft isl.; Floating Bog cr., falling in by Bear pt.; -Boutwell cr., on the W. side of the W. arm; and Shawinukumag cr., a -little rill close by the mouth of the Infant. There is one point about -the lake I wish to signalize by the name of Point Hill, after my -esteemed friend, Mr. Alfred J. Hill of St. Paul. When you come to the -N. end of the N. arm, at the usual landing or embarking place, where -McMullen's house stands, your view of Schoolcraft isl., as you look -southward up the N. arm, is intercepted by a promontory from the W. -side, near the center of Sect. 2, T. 143, R. 36; this is Point Hill. -The altitude of Lake Itasca is given by Brower as 1,457 feet; its -distance from the Gulf of Mexico, by the channel of the Mississippi, -is probably about 2,550 m.--by no means those "3,184" m. which the -Rand-McNally map exploits. The general situation is: 150 m. W. of Lake -Superior; 125 m. S. from the N. border of Minnesota; 75 m. E. from the -W. and 252 m. N. from the S. border of the same. The lake is reached -from St. Paul by 240 m. overland; take the G. N. R. R. to Park Rapids, -and go thence in one day by wagon. The distance from St. Paul by the -Mississippi is said to be 560 m.; it is practically out of the -question as a route, because of obstructions to navigation, especially -by logging-booms. A much easier way than I selected for my own -excursion is, as just said, to the lake by rail and wagon, thence down -the Mississippi by canoe or skiff to Deer River or Grand Rapids, where -you strike the D. and W. R. R., or even down to Brainerd, where the N. -P. R. R. crosses. The names most prominently associated with discovery -and exploration in the Itasca basin are: William Morrison, 1804; Henry -R. Schoolcraft and James Allen, 1832; Jean N. Nicollet, 1836; Julius -Chambers, 1872; James H. Baker and Edwin S. Hall, 1875; Hopewell -Clarke, 1886; J. V. Brower, 1889-94. A more extended historical note -will be found beyond; meanwhile let us return to Pike, at the mouth of -Turtle r., on Cass l. - -[III-9] David Thompson, the great explorer and surveyor, b. St. John's -parish, Westminster, Eng., Apr. 30th, 1770, d. Longueuil, opposite -Montreal, Canada, Feb. 16th, 1857, and now with his wife in Mt. Royal -cemetery. His activities compassed half a century, say 1790-1840, -during some of which years he seems to have been almost ubiquitous--so -extensive were his travels, in the service of the H. B. Co., N. W. -Co., and on professional duties in connection with the survey of the -boundary between the British possessions and the United States. Mr. -Thompson was a good practical astronomer and an admirable geographer. -Some of his determinations would not easily be surpassed in accuracy -by the best modern methods. He was also an assiduous journalist, and a -good draughtsman; but most of his work has never seen the light. The -manuscripts which he left are believed to cover the long period of -years during which he traveled and observed; and to include not only -his personal narrative, but also the mathematical tables by which his -astronomical observations were worked out for the determination of -latitude and longitude. They have more than once been drawn upon for -historical and geographical data; but no publication of such a -thorough digest of Thompson's life and work as could have been -prepared from these materials under competent and critical editorship -has ever been made. A brief recital of his journeys was read by J. B. -Tyrrell, B. A., etc., before the Canadian Institute, Mar. 3d, 1888, -and published that year, Toronto, 8vo., pp. 28. The official records I -have mentioned must not be confounded with certain fragments of -Thompson's MSS., now the property of a Mr. Charles Lindsey of Toronto, -and recently offered for sale. These are about 600 foolscap pp. in -Thompson's handwriting, drawn up very late in life--being thus by no -means his original journals and field note-books. Thompson was on the -Missouri at the Mandan villages Dec. 29th, 1797-Jan. 10th, 1798--thus -before Lewis and Clark, Oct. 27th, 1804-Apr. 7th, 1805, and the -younger Alexander Henry, July and Aug., 1806. While here he undertook -to determine from Indian information the _source_ of the Yellowstone -r., and made one of the most extraordinary computations on record; for -his figures agree within 20 m. or less with the true latitude and -longitude. Thompson was the first white man who ever descended the -Columbia r. from its head-waters to the point where Lewis and Clark -struck it, Oct. 16th, 1806; this voyage was made in the summer of -1811, and protracted to the Pacific at Astoria. That journey to which -Pike refers was made in 1798. Thompson came down the Turtle River -route to Cass l., late in April, and stopped at John Sayers' house, -located by him in lat. 47° 27' 56" N. and long. 95° W. If we marvel -why such a man as Thompson missed the honor of discovering the source -of the Mississippi, when that prize was so near at hand, we may -remember that the Turtle River head-waters were already the accepted -source, as being the furthest N. Leaving Cass l. May 3d, Thompson -descended the Mississippi through Lake Winnibigoshish, and so on to -the N. W. Co. house at Sandy l.; thence he went up Prairie or Savanna -r., the usual traders' route, portaged over to waters of the St. -Louis, and descended this river to the Fond du Lac house, which stood -2½ m. from Lake Superior. This journey was from the post on the -Assiniboine r., at the mouth of Souris or Mouse r., which he left Feb. -25th; he reached Fond du Lac May 10th, or in 2 months and 18 days. - -[III-10] This most celebrated chief of the Leech Lake Chippewas, or -Pillagers, had three names, whose several variants number probably -three dozen. One of them may be written Ask a Buggy Cuss--for if that -is not right, it is as near right as some others, and easier to say -than any of the rest. It is the rule that the name is different with -everyone who uses it, and it often varies with the same author whose -"takes" fall into the hands of different compositors. Some of the -forms I have noted are: Aishkibugikozsh; Aishkabugakosh; Eshkibogikoj; -Esquibusicoge; Aishkebugekoshe and Eschkebugecoshe (in Minn. Hist. -Coll., V. _passim_); Eski Bugeckoge (in the French Pike, I. p. 220). -The French form of the name was Gueule Platte; and the English of it -was Flat Mouth. Pike spells the French in half a dozen different ways, -the question of gender included in the variation; while Schoolcraft, -who was something of a linguist, is equally vagarious in this case, -giving us Geulle Platte, Gouelle Platte, Guelle Plat, Gueulle Plat, -Guella Plat--anything you please, except Gruel Plate or Ghoul Plot! -Our Gallic friends themselves tried a variety of combinations, as -_gole_, _goule_, _gule_, before they suited themselves with _gueule_ -as a satisfactory substitute for the Latin _gula_--just as we did -before we made _gulley_ and _gullet_ out of the same old Roman stock. -On Pike's folding Abstract, the individual whose mouth, jaws, and -throat are so much in literary doubt figures as "Eskibugeckoge, -Geuelle Platte, Flat Mouth, first chief of his band." This was a large -one, best known as the Pillagers, also as Muckundwas, who had long -maintained a separate tribal organization. The medal which Flat Mouth -had received from the British at Fort William on Lake Superior, and -which Pike took from him to substitute an American one, was replaced -by a large solid silver one given him by Schoolcraft July 19th, 1828. -The latter author has a long and good account of this remarkably brave -and sensible Indian, who in 1832 seemed to be turned of 60 years, -about 5 feet 9 or 10 inches high, erect, but inclined to corpulency. -He had been on the war-path 25 times, and had killed a good many Sioux -without ever receiving a wound. He was a man of great discernment and -sound judgment, extensively and accurately informed upon all affairs -which concerned his people or himself. There is much said of him in -the Minnesota Historical Collections from first to last, especially in -the Hon. W. W. Warren's History of the Ojibwas, and Rev. E. D. Neill's -continuation of the same subject: see for example pp. 17, 19, 45, 50, -138, 178, 223, 269, 275, 324, 342, 349, 352, 359, 360, 362, 369, and -459, 463, 465, 475, 478, in Vol. V. of those Collections. He figured -prominently in Anglojibwa affairs for more than half a century, and -was living in 1852, at a supposed age of about 78 years, having been -born about 1774. The circumstances under which the Leech Lake Indians -received the names of Makandwyinniniwag, Mukundwais, or Muckundwas, F. -Pilleurs, E. Pillagers, Plunderers, and Robbers, are said in substance -by Schoolcraft to be these: During the period of great irregularities -in the fur-trade consequent upon the transfer of the balance of power -from French to English hands, when the latter were still dependent in -part or entirely upon the former for their clerks and boatmen, and -these were in great favor with the Indians, one Berti came on with -goods and took his station at the mouth of Crow-wing r. to trade with -the Chips. But he had more to sell than they could buy, including guns -and ammunition which he knew the Sioux would be glad to get. The -Chips., however, forbade his thus arming their foes; and when he -started for the Sioux country, in spite of their warnings and threats, -they arrested him by force of arms, and robbed him of all he -possessed, though they spared his life. Berti returned to Sandy l., -soon died of a broken heart, or of the exertions he had made to defend -his property, and was buried thereabouts. Dr. Douglass Houghton -relates a curious story of this trader's indirect causation of a -terrible smallpox epidemic that ravaged the Chips. The above -occurrences were in 1767-68. When the facts became known to the -company at Mackinac, the Indians were directed to make requital, with -threats of punishment for non-compliance. A deputation went to -Mackinac in the spring of 1770, with furs which were taken as an -equivalent for those which had been stolen, and the Indians were -dismissed with a cask of liquor and a closely rolled flag as a token -of friendship. They were enjoined not to broach the one or unroll the -other till they got home. But on the way they did both, and had a -drunken spree with some of their friends at Fond du Lac. Several were -taken sick, some died, and it was soon discovered that the disease had -broken out among them. It was spread broadcast, and is said to have -cost many hundred Chippewa lives before its ravages ceased. Whether -rightly or wrongly, the Indians were always firmly persuaded that a -dastardly outrage had been perpetrated upon them by the intentional -communication to them of the disease through the medium of the -presents they had received from officers of the fur company. I have -thus cited Schoolcraft for the popular or traditional as distinguished -from the proper or historical presentation of this case. The facts are -set forth at length in Warren's History of the Ojibways, chap. xxi., -forming pp. 256-262 of Minn. Hist. Coll., V. 1885. The nom de guerre -which the Pillagers accepted for themselves is there rendered -Mukimduawininewug (men who take by force). There appears to be no -truth whatever in laying upon the British the infamous charge of -intentional introduction of smallpox. Warren had the facts direct from -an intelligent old chief of the Pillagers, from which it appears that -the terrible epidemic, costing several thousand lives, was introduced -on the return of a war-party of Kenistenos, Assineboines, and -Ojibways, who had gone for scalps to the Kechepegano (Missouri) r., -and caught the infection from a village of Giaucthinnewug -(Grosventres). - -[III-11] Which formed Doc. No. 6, p. 17 of the App. to Pt. 1 of the orig. -ed., and will be found beyond. This letter answered Pike's of Feb. -7th. - -[III-12] The speech made at this conference by Pike, and the replies of -three chiefs, formed Docs. Nos. 7 and 8, p. 19 and p. 22 of the App. -to Pt. 1 of the orig. ed. Both are found beyond. - -[III-13] Though the phrase is not capitalized, this is the personal name -of a Leech Lake chief, whom Pike elsewhere calls Chef de la Terre and -Obigouitte. - -[III-14] That is, the main party, whom Pike starts off to-day with their -guide, in advance of himself, Corporal Bradley, Mr. "L'Rone," and the -two young Chips. named Buck and Beau. This would be inferred from the -above text, and is confirmed by that of 1807, p. 43, which says that -"the men were marched" Feb. 18th, and Pike with others was "to follow -afterwards." I have no clew as yet to the identity of this "L'Rone." -He seems to have been the guide whom Mr. M'Gillis provided, as Pike -says on the 21st, when this man was bundled back again, that he had -then no guide. But in that case, who or what was the Reale named on -the 21st? (See this name in Index.) - -[III-15] Pike is on a _Pine River route_ from Leech l. to Lower Red Cedar -l., and goes across country on a general course about S. S. E., in -Cass Co. This much is clear; but this region is none too well known, -and my own information does not suffice me to attempt identification -of the many small lakes he crosses till he comes to the large -Whitefish l. in the course of Pine r. I doubt that we have data which -enable anyone to trail him with confidence. The multiplicity of lakes -and streams of the Pine River connections affords in fact several ways -when the water is open, and when everything was frozen over Pike did -not necessarily take any one of the usual routes. The air-line -distance is some 55 m.; but he traveled much further, as he blundered -on the way and struck the Mississippi too low down--at the mouth of -present Dean cr. See note 47, p. 135, and forward, where Pike -describes his Pine River journey. - -[III-16] Not identified; but not to be confounded with the great Sandy l. -or Lac du Sable on the other side of the Mississippi, which Pike -reached Jan. 8th and left Jan. 20th: see note 49, p. 138. - -[III-17] Whitefish or Fish l., as it is still called, is the largest body -of water into which Pine r. expands, but by no means to be considered -as its source. Several large streams fall into it, and the largest one -of these is properly regarded as the continuation of Pine r. This lake -begins only about 10 m. (air-line) from the Mississippi. Nicollet -names it Kadikomeg l.; two smaller ones, lower down on Pine r., he -names Plympton and Davenport. Three of this same connection are now -Cross, Pine, and Gear. We know exactly where Pike is to-day; though -his account of what appear to be two? or three? N. W. Co. houses on -this lake is not as clear as we could wish. - -[III-18] On the up-voyage we figured out camp of Jan. 1st, 1806, to have -been between Dean and Hay crs.; the present pat coincidence confirms -the former independent determination: see note 47, p. 134. From -Whitefish l. Pike forged ahead of his party, accompanied by Boley, -Buck, and Beau, and bore away from Pine r. direct for Lower Red Cedar -l. He struck one of the little lakes connected with Dean cr., followed -this creek down to its mouth, and recognized this point on the -Mississippi as being a mile below where he had seen the Chippewa -canoes turned up Jan. 1st. Dean cr. empties 3½ m. direct, exactly 5 m. -by the river, below Hay cr., about up to the mouth of which he goes to -camp to-night, and easily makes the N. W. Co. house to-morrow. Some -points I did not present in my former note on this locality are these: -Between Dean and Hay crs., and just W. of the "guide meridian" which, -N. of the Mississippi, marks the separation of the 4th and 5th -meridian systems of survey, is a very nearly straight stretch of the -river for 2 m., nearly E. and W. This was known to the old voyageurs -as the Grande Avenue. Its W. end is 1¾ m. above Dean cr.; its E. -beginning is at a sharp turn of the river ½ m. below (N. N. E. of) the -mouth of Hay cr., 2¾ m. scarcely E. of N. of the mouth of Cedar r.; -Pine Knoll is on this turn. At the end of the first ½ m. ascending the -Avenue, the range line between Ranges 27 and 28 (of the 4th M.) -strikes the Mississippi from the S., and ends there; this range line -is also the inter-county line between Crow Wing and Aitkin cos. -Rounding the bend at Pine Knoll and going less than ½ m., one comes to -the section line of Sects. 1 and 13, T. 136, R. 25, 5th M.; this is --1/8 m. from the mouth of Hay cr., and from this point upward Aitkin -Co. is on both sides of the river. Pike's camp of the 24th was within -a small fraction of a mile from the point thus indicated. - -[III-19] The first chief of the Sandy Lake Chippewas of Pike's time is -called on his table Catawabata, De Breche, and Broken Teeth. The -French form is intended for Dent Breche, and I suppose the more usual -term for a person with broken teeth would be Brèche-dent. I have seen -the word printed as "Brusha." The native name is rendered Cadiwabida -by Schoolcraft, who speaks of him in 1832 as among the dead patriarchs -of his tribe. W. W. Warren renders this more correctly Kadowaubeda; -while Neill, with unusual inaccuracy on his part, speaks of -Catawatabeta _the_ Breche, in one place, and Kadewabedas, Breche, -Breché-dent, or Brechedent, in others. This man was living in July, -1828, when he visited Sandy l.; he was then the oldest Chippewa chief, -having been a small boy at the time of the capture of Fort Mackinac in -1763. - -[III-20] Doc. No. 9, p. 23 of App. to Pt. I of the orig. ed; to be found -beyond in the present ed. - -[III-21] See note 43, p. 131, Dec. 29th. It will not often be -necessary to recheck mileages on the down-voyage, now fairly under -way. "Pine Ridge" is hardly a named locality, though capitalized as -such. It is close to White Bear Skin r., the discharge of Duck and -Swamp lakes, near which we set camp of Dec. 29th, 1805. For a still -closer indication of the present camp, take the diminutive Half Moon -l., near the W. bank of the river. The point of the pine ridge is -opposite that. - -[III-22] There is difficulty in adjusting the discrepant records of Mar. -3d and 4th with those of Christmas week, 1805: see back, Dec. -17th-25th, and notes there. The party were then toiling by Crow Wing -r., between Ripley and Brainerd; Pike did not keep with his men, and -some of the discrepancies may be due to actual difference between his -movements and theirs. Pike also says, Dec. 23d, that he was scarcely -able to make his notes intelligible. The two records contradict -instead of corroborating each other. Thus, Dec. 17th has it that the -two-barrel cache (pork and flour) was made that day, not the 19th, as -above said; and it was at or near Ripley. Dec. 20th one barrel of -flour was buried; the party were then so close on to Crow Wing r. that -Pike got there early next morning. He did not leave Crow Wing r. till -after he had taken the latitude there, on the 24th. Meanwhile, his men -were struggling up to this river. It is really a small matter, of no -more than some 16 m. direct, or 20 m. by the Mississippi, and thus -hardly worth dwelling on; but I like to be accurate when I can. Pike -was camped at Brainerd Dec. 26th and Mar. 2d; he raised his one-barrel -cache of Dec. 20th, near Crow Wing r., on Mar. 3d, and continued on -down to the Nokasippi, which had been passed on or about Dec. 18th, -not 21st, as above; on Mar. 4th he came to the two-barrel cache which -he had made on Dec. 17th, not 19th, as above said, when he was in the -vicinity of Ripley; he continues to-day past Ripley, past his three -days' camp of Dec. 14th, 15th, and 16th, above Olmsted's bar, and -fetches up to-night opposite his camp of Dec. 13th, in the vicinity of -Topeka. Mar. 5th finds him at his stockade on Swan r. The camp of Mar. -3d, at the Nokasippi r., is an absolutely fixed point, as this is the -only river that falls in from the E. hereabouts. "Pine Camp" of the -above paragraph is the place where he was camped for three days, Dec. -14th, 15th, 16th, in the vicinity of Olmsted's bar. - -[III-23] "Between Pine creek and the post" is a slip for "between Pine -_camp_ and the post"; for the post was on Pine _creek_ (Swan r.). The -December camps passed Mar. 5th were four: Dec. 12th, at or near -Fletcher cr.; Dec. 11th, near Little Elk r.; Dec. 10th, at Little -Falls (city); Dec. 9th, just above Swan r., on the other side of the -Mississippi. The salute had been ordered by letter from Grant's house -on Lower Red Cedar l.: see back, Feb. 26th. For "Killeur Rouge" see -note 24, p. 118. - -[III-24] Full name of this Menomonee chief, as listed by Pike on his -tabular exhibit, where his native name is rendered Tomaw, and where -the other Folle Avoine chief also appears by the above name, Shawanoe, -not translated in F. or E. - -[III-25] Possibly a clew here to the unidentified person whose name -occurs as Greinyea or Grienway in Lewis and Clark, ed. of 1893, p. -1188, _q. v._ The person here meant is Louis Grignon: see Wis. Hist. -Coll., VII. p. 247. A Mr. Grignon is mentioned in Wm. Morrison's -letter (elsewhere cited) as one of the five persons besides himself -who formed the party that came into the country from Fond du Lac in -July, 1802. The name stands Greignon, text of 1807, p. 46. - -[III-26] Pike's observation strikes me as much more "singular" than the -Fox Indian's opinion. Many of us have been taught that the whole world -was once drowned, excepting one favored family, and we have also been -told how it was repeopled. That is one advantage which an enlightened -Christian has over Lo, the poor benighted Indian. The savage simply -accepts that one of the deluge-myths which his own ancestors -elaborated to suit themselves. But the Christian has the Word of God -himself, bound up in many different editions of various dates, for the -truth of that particular deluge-myth which the Jews appropriated, with -variations to suit their own tribal vanity, from the Chaldeans. They -invented very little except their precious Jehovah, who was less -polished and less agreeable a god than most of those who were -elaborated by the more civilized tribes who surrounded and generally -whipped the Jews. The Noachian narration, like the Genesis relation of -both the Elohistic and the Jehovistic scribes, was borrowed from one -of the myths that clustered about the legendary character known as -Gisdhubar, Izdubar, etc., alleged descendant of the last antediluvian -monarch Hasisadra, who became known to the Greeks through Berosus as -Xisuthros. The original of this deluge-myth was recovered from the -cuneiform characters by Geo. Smith of the British Museum in 1872, and -may be read in English and various other modern languages, to the -great edification of the faithful, no doubt: see it, _e. g._, in the -charming and readily accessible book, The Story of Chaldea, by Zénaïde -A. Ragozin, 2d ed., 8vo, N. Y., G. P. Putnam's Sons, 1888, p. 301 and -p. 314. After the aqueous allegations had been reduced to writing in -Hebrew characters, and generations of Jewish rabbis had tinkered the -text to suit themselves with Masoretic points, and various anonymous -scribes had turned it into Septuagint Greek and Vulgate Latin, some -people in England who had never heard of the original, could not have -read a word of it if they had handled the very bricks on which it was -first stamped, and do not appear to have been informed on the subject -by the Holy Ghost, gave us their English version of the words of God -duly "authorized" by "the wisest fool in Europe," as the Duc de Sully -called James I. The most credible items in this account are that the -elephant took his trunk with him and stood behind it in the ark, but -that the cock and the fox were worse off for baggage, having only a -comb and a brush between them; yet I also believe just as firmly that -the raven which Noah let fly was the original progenitor of the Petit -Corbeau who lived in the village of Kapoja, near St. Paul, Minn. - -[III-27] The phrase which Pike's interpreter applied to the woman was no -doubt "La Bastonnaise." For a long period before and after the end of -the last century, "Bostonian" in some form was the nickname of -English-speaking whites, especially New Englanders--just as we now say -"Yankee." The Indians picked up the word from the Canadian French, and -it passed from mouth to mouth across the continent; _e. g._, it -entered the vocabulary of the Chinook jargon spoken on the N. W. -Coast. To cite a case: "On my remarking to Mr. Frobisher that I -suspected the _Bastonnais_ (Bostonians, or English colonists) had been -doing some mischief in Canada, the Indians directly exclaimed, 'Yes; -that is the name! _Bastonnais._' They were lately from the Grand -Portage," etc., Alex. Henry, Trav. of 1761-76, 8vo, N. Y., 1809, p. -329. - -[III-28] See back, note 14, p. 99, Oct. 8th, 1805. Pike's getting down -to Mr. Dickson's wintering-ground in one day from the stockade on Swan -r. confirms the opinion expressed in that note that this place is -marked too low on his map (below Clear Water r.). It also relieves us -of the difficulty that seemed to arise when we were told that Pike did -not pass Dickson's place till Oct. 10th, when we brought him up to St. -Cloud. Evidently, then, our adjustment of mileages and camps of Oct. -8th-10th is right, and Dickson's place was at the foot of the Thousand -Island cluster (Pike's Beaver isls.). The text of 1807, p. 21, speaks -of "the place where Mr. Rienville and Monsr. Perlier wintered in 1797. -Above it is a cluster of more than 20 islands in the course of four -miles, which they named the Beaver islands." As to the name of the -person who was with Mr. Dickson, we have choice of four: Paulier, as -above; Perlier, text of Oct. 10th, of both 1807 and 1810 eds., but -Paulire on p. 56 of the 1807 text; and Potier, on the map. One Antoine -_Pothier_, a trader, is named among Laclede's "thirty associates" by -Billon, Ann. St. Louis, 1764-1804, pub. 1886, p. 18; and it appears in -St. Louis archives that one Isidor _Peltier_ sold a slave to Louis -Blouin, Oct. 7th, 1767. For one _Pothier_, 1812, see also Wis. His. -Soc. Coll., XI. p. 272. But Pike's man is _Jacques Porlier_, b. 1765, -Milwaukee in 1783, Green Bay in 1791, d. 1839: see Wis. His. Soc. -Coll., III. p. 244, VII. p. 247, and Tassé, Les Canadiens de l'Ouest, -8vo, Montreal, 1878, I. pp. 137-141. - -[III-29] This letter formed Doc. No. 10, p. 24, of App. to Pt. 1 of the -orig. ed.; it is given beyond. It is dated Grand Isle (_i. e._, Grande -Île), Apr. 9th; by which we may infer this to have been then the name -of the place where Mr. Dickson wintered, and that this place was on a -large island. All indications now are that the wintering-place in -question was on the foot of the large island at whose head are -Mosquito rapids, and only a mile or so above St. Augusta, as already -surmised in note 16, p. 100. For "a Mr. Greignor," see note 25, -p. 181. "A Mr. Veau" is Jacques Vieau or De Veau, b. 1757, d. 1852: -see W. H. S. C., XI. p. 218. The October date above is provokingly -blank for the day of the month. But I construe the passage to mean -that the place where Pike now is, Apr. 9th, is also the place where -Mr. Porlier's brother and Mr. Veau had wintered 1805-6. If so, we may -query Oct. 4th as the missing date; for though Pike does not say that -his camp that day was on an island, the position of Dimick's isl., to -which we then brought him, is such that he can easily make Rum r. by 7 -a. m. to-morrow, if he keeps on "some time" after leaving the island -in question, as he says he does. - -[III-30] Pike twice passed directly by Dayton bluff, in which this cave -was situated--once Sept. 21st, 1805, and again to-day: see back, note -72, p. 75, for the locality, and add: The cave which Carver -discovered in 1766 is thus described by him, pp. 39, 40, ed. of 1796: -"About 30 [say 15] miles below the Falls of St. Anthony, at which I -arrived the 10th day after I left Lake Pepin, is a remarkable cave of -an amazing depth. The Indians term it Wakon-teebe, that is, the -Dwelling of the Great Spirit. The entrance into it is about 10 feet -wide, the height of it 5 feet. The arch within is near 15 feet high, -and about 30 feet broad. The bottom of it consists of clear sand. -About 20 feet from the entrance begins a lake, the water of which is -transparent, and extends to an unsearchable distance; for the darkness -of the cave prevents all attempts to acquire a knowledge of it. I -threw a small pebble towards the interior parts of is [it], with my -utmost strength: I could hear that it fell into the water, and -notwithstanding it was of so small a size, it caused an astonishing -and horrible noise, that reverberated through all those gloomy -regions. I found in this cave many Indian hieroglyphics, which -appeared very ancient, for time had nearly covered them with moss, so -that it was with difficulty I could trace them. They were cut in a -rude manner upon the inside of the walls, which were composed of a -stone so extremely soft that it might easily be penetrated with a -knife; a stone everywhere to be found near the Mississippi. The cave -is only accessible by ascending a narrow, steep passage, that lies -near the brink of the river." Now it is easy to criticise such an -account, and those who wish to discredit this honest gentleman seize -upon "amazing depth," "unsearchable distance," "horrible noise," etc. -But that is unfair. These phrases are only Carver's _façon de parler_ -of his subjective sensations; the objective reality is truthfully and -recognizably described. Besides, one should be sure he is in Carver's -cave before he criticises the description--not get into another cave -and then find fault with Carver because the wrong cave does not fit -the right description, as our friend Schoolcraft did. The cave which -Carver does _not_ describe was not discovered till 1811. Long visited -two in 1817; in 1823 Long's second party visited the New or Fountain -cave, and Keating has left the matter in such clear light that the -passage may be transcribed, I. p. 289, ed. of 1824: "Above this -village [of Kapoja], there is a cave which is much visited by the -voyagers; we stopped to examine it, although it presents, in fact, but -little to admire; it is formed in the sandstone, and is of course -destitute of those beautiful appearances, which characterize the -caverns in calcareous rock. It is the same which is described by Mr. -Schoolcraft, whose name, as well as those of several of Governor Cass' -party we found carved in the rock. In his account of it, Mr. -Schoolcraft states it to be the cavern that was visited by Carver, but -adds that 'it appears to have undergone a considerable alteration -since that period.' It appears from Major Long's MSS. of 1817, that -there are two caves, both of which he visited; the lower one was -Carver's; it was in 1817 very much reduced in size from the dimensions -given by Carver; the opening into it was then so low, that the only -way of entering it was by creeping in a prostrate position. Our -interpreter, who had accompanied Major Long, told us that it was now -closed up; it was probably near the cemetery which we have mentioned. -The cavern which we visited, and which Mr. Schoolcraft describes, is -situated five miles above; it was discovered in 1811, and is called -the Fountain cave; there is a beautiful stream running through it," -etc. I think very likely the cave Long visited in 1817, and thought to -be Carver's, was really the smaller one alongside Carver's in Dayton -bluff, of which I am informed by my friend Mr. A. J. Hill, seeing how -"much reduced in size from the dimensions given by Carver" he found -it. Beltrami, II. pp. 191-193, goes on about Carver's cave in a way -which makes one think he entered no one of the three caves in this -vicinity, but drew on his imagination for his description after -reading up on the subject. He uses the phrase "cave of Trophonius," -and says that "the Sioux call this cave Whakoon-Thiiby"--a decidedly -original way of spelling it. Featherstonhaugh describes his visit of -Sept. 12th, 1835, to what he calls Carver's cave, p. 257 of his Canoe -Voyage, etc., pub. 1847. Nicollet, who is always to the point, speaks -of two caves, one 4 and the other 8 m. below St. Peters, Rep. 1843, p. -72: "Both are in the sandstone, but at different elevations. The -former is on a level with the river, and is reached through a short -ravine along the limpid streamlet that issues from it. Many authors -have thought this to be the cave described by Carver, but erroneously. -It would, in fact, be only necessary to compare the locality with -Carver's description, to be at once convinced. The cave now referred -to is of recent formation. The aged Sioux say that it did not exist -formerly. It has to them no ceremonial association. They scarcely ever -visit it, and there are none of their hieroglyphics upon its sides or -floor. It owes its formation to the dislocation and decomposition of -the upland limestone, which have left sloughy places; the waters of -which have penetrated into the sandstone, wearing it away, and giving -origin to the streamlet which issues from it. The location of this -cave is on my map designated as the _new cave_ [_New Cave_]. The -second, four miles below the former, is that described by Carver. Its -entrance has been, for more than 30 years, closed by the disintegrated -débris of the limestone capping the sandstone in which it is located. -On the 3d day of July, 1837, with the assistance of Messrs. Campbell -and Quinn--the former an interpreter for the Sioux, the latter for the -Chippeways--I set about clearing this entrance; which, by-the-bye, was -no easy work; for, on the 5th we were about abandoning the job, when, -unexpectedly, we found that we had made an opening into it; and -although we had not entirely disincumbered it of its rubbish, I saw -enough to satisfy me of the accuracy of Carver's description. The lake -mentioned by him is there; but I could only see a segment of the cave, -a portion of its roof being too near the surface of the water to -enable me to proceed any further. A Chippeway warrior made a long -harangue on the occasion; throwing his knife into the lake as an -offering to _Wakan-tibi_, the spirit of the grottoes. The ascent to -the cave is by a rapid slope; and on the rocks that form a wall to the -left, there are a number of ancient Sioux hieroglyphics, that mean -nothing more than to indicate the names of Indians that have at -various times visited this natural curiosity. On leaving the cave and -reaching the river, a stroll of a few yards to the left, by keeping -close to the rocks, brought us upon a sweet, limpid and copious spring -which had remained for a long time unknown in consequence of the -shingle and brush that conceal its outlet. This is evidently the issue -of the waters of Grotto lake; and their abundance indicates that the -lake is well fed, and doubtless occupies a considerable space within -the mountain. On the high grounds above the cave there are some Indian -mounds, to which the Indians belonging to the tribe of _Mdewakantonwans_ -formerly transported the bones of the deceased members of their -families," as is stated by Carver, Pike, Long, and many others. I am -led into this long note partly for the purpose of setting history -straight, and partly from the intrinsic interest of these Stygian -caverns, which Pike passes to-day without notice, as hundreds now do -every day and will do until the places are improved off the earth. The -cave that Nicollet opened is the veritable one that Carver discovered; -it is right on the railroad that skirts Dayton bluff, about a mile in -an air-line from Union depot. The New or Fountain cave is miles away, -in Upper St. Paul, near the railroad bridge there, unless it has -lately yielded to the triumph of art over nature and been effaced. Mr. -Hill writes from St. Paul, Mar. 18th, 1894: "Before the shaving off of -Carver's cave--or rather before our civil war--the serpent on the roof -on the right hand as you stood on the brink of the waters was very -plainly visible, and might have been traced by rubbing or otherwise; -but this would have required scaffolding. It has been remarked that -the serpent was the totem of Ottahtongoomlishcah, one of the Sioux -chiefs of the 'Cave Treaty.' I found by actual measurement that the -extreme length of the lake was 110 feet, before any alteration of the -surface had occurred." See also the article by Mr. Hill on Mounds, -Minn. Hist. Soc. Coll., VI. Pt. 2, 1891. J. Fletcher Williams, in -Minn. Hist. Soc. Coll., I. 2d ed. 1872, p. 355, notes that there was -little change in Carver's cave in the course of a century, for it was -much the same May 1st, 1867, when the Historical Society celebrated -the centennial of Carver's purported treaty with the Sioux. "Within -the past two years, however, sad changes have taken place. The St. -Paul & Chicago Railroad, having condemned for their use the strip of -land along the river bank, including the bluff or cliff in which is -the cave, have dug it down and nearly destroyed it. But a narrow -cavity now remains to mark its site. The pool or lake is gone, and the -limpid stream that flows through it now supplies a railroad tank." But -now, says Mr. Hill, "sand heaped from railroad cutting has again -backed up the water into a pool, the receptacle of all filth." Mr. T. -H. Lewis' article, Cave-Drawings, Appleton's Annual Cyclop., 1889, p. -117 (reprint, p. 3), gives the exact position of both the Dayton bluff -caves; the small one, 400 feet above Carver's, is 50 feet N. E. of -Commercial St., midway between Plum and Cherry Sts., at the foot of -the bluff; 35 feet long on the floor, as measured in 1889 to the edge -of the water in the rear, 24 feet wide, 10 feet high--thus about -one-third as large as Carver's. It had pictographs like those of -Carver's cave. None of those Carver mentions were ever copied; his -cave was in part demolished by grading when the railroad first came -by, and in the course of time the walls were scribbled over by the -ubiquitous army of idlers and tramps from whose vandalism no natural -formation or artificial monument in the world is secure. - -[III-31] Literally Raven's Nose. He is tabulated by Pike as Tatamane, Nez -Corbeau, Raven Nose, and Wind that Walks (latter name a euphemism). - -[III-32] "Dispunishable" is a good old word, though rare and now -obsolete; but Pike uses it in the opposite of its meaning, which was -simply "punishable"--for the prefix _dis-_ is here intensive, not -reversive or nugatory. C. D. marks it obs., and cites in support of -def. a passage from the last will of Dean Swift, in a clause of which -"_dispunishable_ of waste" occurs. - -[III-33] Joseph Rolette, Sr. There were various persons of this surname, -whose spelling varies as usual. Billon gives one Michel Rolette as a -French soldier who came from Fort Chartres to Laclede's village (St. -Louis) in 1764. Pike's "Mr. Rollett" is the same man as Beltrami's -"Mr. Roulet," said in Beltrami's book, II. p. 174, to have been at -Prairie du Chien in 1823, in the S. W. Co. The Minn. Hist. Coll., II. -Part 2, 1864, 2d ed. 1881, p. 107, mentions "the notorious Joseph -Rolette, sen.," as at Prairie du Chien, in or about Feb., 1822. The -memoir of Hercules M. Dousman, by General H. H. Sibley, Minn. Hist. -Coll., III. 1870-80, p. 193, speaks of "the late Joseph Rolette, -senior," as a partner of the American Fur Company, in 1826; again we -read there, p. 194: "In 1834 ... I formed with him [Dousman] and the -late Joseph Rolette, senior, a co-partnership with the American Fur -Company of New York, which passed in that year under the direction of -Ramsay Crooks as President"; and once more, _ibid._, p. 199: "In 1844, -Col. Dousman was united in marriage to the widow of his former partner -in business, Joseph Rolette, senior, who died some years previously." - -[III-34] This letter was Doc. No. 11, p. 25 of the App. to Pt. 1 of the -orig. ed. It is given beyond. - -[III-35] That is to say, certain ones of their nation who were murderers -of some white men: see Apr. 17th. The minutes of this Winnebago -conference formed Doc. No. 12, p. 26 of the App. to Pt. 1 of the orig. -ed.; given beyond. - -[III-36] Doc. No. 13, p. 29 of the App. to Pt. 1 of the orig. ed.; given -beyond. - -[III-37] On Pike's Tabular Abstract, one Red Thunder, Tonnerre Rouge, or -Wuckiew Nutch, appears as a Sisseton and "first chief of all the -Sioux"; while Red Cloud, Nuage Rouge, or Muckpeanutah, is exhibited as -first chief of the Yanktons. - -[III-38] James B. Many of Delaware, whose name occurs in Pike and -elsewhere as Many, Maney, Manny, and Mary, also as Mancy in the text -of 1807, was appointed first lieutenant of the 2d reg't of -Artillerists and Engineers June 4th, 1798, and hence of Artillerists -Apr. 1st, 1802; promoted to be captain Oct. 1st, 1804, and major, May -5th, 1813; he was transferred to the corps of Artillery May 12th, -1814, to the 4th Infantry June 1st, 1821, to the 5th Infantry Oct. -24th, 1821; on the 1st of Jan., 1822, he was made lieutenant-colonel -of the 7th Infantry, to rank from June 1st, 1821; became colonel of -the 2d Infantry July 21st, 1834, and died Feb. 23d, 1852. - -[III-39] Pigeons are among the least fecund of birds, as they lay only -two eggs at a clutch, and that not oftener than most other birds. But -Pike's account of their vast numbers is not in the least exaggerated. -The aggregate of individuals in existence in the United States during -those and for many later years defies all attempt at calculation. Some -single flights have been estimated to include millions. The settlement -of the country, and consequent wanton destruction during our -generation, have exterminated the wild pigeon in some regions, and -reduced to comparatively few its numbers in others. - -[III-40] Daniel Hughes of Maryland originally entered the army as an -ensign of the 9th Infantry, Jan. 8th, 1799; became a lieutenant that -year, and was honorably discharged June 15th, 1800. He was reappointed -second lieutenant of the 2d Infantry Feb. 16th, 1801, and transferred -to the 1st Infantry Apr. 1st, 1802; promoted to be first lieutenant -Mar. 23d, 1805, and captain Dec. 15th, 1808; became major of the 2d -Infantry Feb. 21st, 1814, and was honorably discharged June 15th, -1815. His subsequent career is not known to me. - -[III-41] A sketch of the early history of St. Louis forms pp. 75-92 of -Nicollet's Report of 1843, so often cited in the foregoing notes. It -will be well to abstract here the main historical points of this -article, which is not so well known as everything that Nicollet wrote -should be. Some of the following items are adduced from other sources, -as Billon's Annals. Louisiana was ceded by France to Spain, Treaty of -Fontainebleau, Nov. 3d, 1762, ratified Nov. 13th; and by Treaty of -Paris, Feb. 10th, 1763, France and Spain jointly made the cession to -Great Britain. In 1762 or 1763 D'Abadie was director-general of -Louisiana ad interim, vice Governor Kerlerec, relieved. He licensed -Laclede, Maxent (or Maxam) and Co., merchants of New Orleans, to trade -up the river. Pierre Ligueste Laclede, in charge of the party, left -New Orleans Aug. 3d, 1763; proceeded to St. Genevieve and Fort -Chartres, Nov. 3d; to the mouth of the Missouri in Dec.; blazed a site -for his trading-post, now St. Louis; and returned to winter at Fort -Chartres, 1763-64. He soon sent to the spot he had marked a boat with -30 persons, in charge of Auguste Chouteau; they arrived Feb. 15th, -1764 (so Nicollet), or Mar. 14th (Chouteau himself says). The list of -the "Thirty Associates" of Laclede given by Billon, p. 17, is 31, with -Antoine Riviere, who, however, did not go in this boat, but drove the -cart which contained Mrs. Chouteau and four children, and which was -escorted by Laclede in person. Chouteau says that Laclede came there -early in April, selected a site for his own house, and returned to -Fort Chartres. He brought his family in September, and established -himself in his new house. The settlement was made, and at least eight -persons were added to the original number by the fall of 1764. The -original name was Laclede's Village. In Oct., 1764, the infant colony -was annoyed by begging and pilfering Missouri Indians. D'Abadie died -Feb. 4th, 1765. Neyon de Villiers had turned over the command of Fort -Chartres, June 15th, 1764, to Louis St. Ange de Bellerive, by whom it -was given over to the British Captain Stirling, Oct. 10th (not July -17th), 1765; Stirling died in three months, and St. Ange resumed -temporary charge of the fort, pending arrival of Stirling's English -successor. British dominion E. of the Mississippi, already -established, was odious; it drove many persons across the river, and -naturally they gathered about the nucleus Laclede had provided. By the -end of 1765 several hundred were there; law was needed, and a -provisional government was set up by general consent in the election -or recognition of St. Ange as governor; this was in effect in April, -1766, with the first recorded document of a public character; first on -record being one filed by Joseph Labusciere, notary, Jan. 21st, 1766. -Laclede, St. Ange, Labusciere, and Judge Joseph Le Febvre d'Inglebert -d'Brouisseau were the four persons most prominent in moving the wheels -of government for four or five years. The settlement had already -outgrown all the earlier ones in the vicinity and become the actual -"metropolis" or capital place in the country. In 1767 the village had -perhaps 80 houses, and several hundred people. Late that year Capt. -Francisco Rios or Rivers arrived with some 25 men, sent by Don Antonio -d' Ulloa to take Spanish possession; he could not be conveniently -accommodated, so selected a camp on the Missouri, 14 miles away, where -he built in 1768 Fort Charles the Prince (site of subsequent Belle -Fontaine), named for the one who became in 1788 Charles IV. of Spain. -Definitive possession of Upper Louisiana was taken May 20th, 1770, by -Capt. Piedro Piernas, sent from New Orleans by Gen. Alex. O'Reilly -(Oreiley of Nicollet), who had landed there at 5 p. m., Aug. 18th, -1769. At the close of the French régime, 1770, the village had 100 -wooden and 15 stone houses; pop. 500. Before or about 1770, some other -settlements were made in the region roundabout; Blanchette the hunter -built his shack on les Petites Côtes, and this place became St. -Charles in 1784; the place to be called both Florissant and St. -Ferdinand was started by François Borosier Dunegan (so Nicollet--but -query this name?) François Saucier settled at Portage des Sioux. The -origin of the name _Pain Court_ is said to be: In 1767, one Delor -Détergette settled on the W. bank of the Miss. r., 6 m. S. of St. -Louis, and was followed by others, all so poor that when they visited -St. Louis, the people there would exclaim, "voilà les poches vides qui -viennent!" "Here come the Empty Pockets!" "But," says Nicollet, "on -one occasion a wag remarked, 'You had better call them _emptiers of -pockets_'--_les Vide-poches_; a compliment which was retaliated by them -upon the place of St. Louis, which was subject to frequent seasons of -want, by styling it _Pain-Court_--_Short of Bread_." The Vide-poche -place became Carondelet in 1776. Laclede died at the Poste aux -Arkansas, June 20th, 1778. On May 6th, 1780, St. Louis was attacked by -Indians and British, and many persons (accounts differ as to numbers) -were killed or captured; it became known as l'Année du Grand -Coup--year of the great blow. Similarly 1785 was called l'Année des -Grandes Eaux, because of the flood in April when the Mississippi rose -to an unprecedented height and inundated the lowlands; it is -traditional that Auguste Chouteau moored his boat and breakfasted on -top of the highest roof in St. Genevieve. The year 1788 was called -L'Année des Dix Batteaux, from circumstances of piracy on the river. -The winter of 1789-90 was notable for its intensity. There was no -interruption of Spanish dominion until the cession of Louisiana to the -United States: see Lewis and Clark, ed. 1893, p. xxxiii. and p. 2. - - - - -CHAPTER IV. - -WEATHER DIARY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.[IV-1] - -_Meteorological Observations made by Lieutenant Pike, on the -Mississippi, in 1805 and 1806._ - - -NOTE.--These observations are very imperfect, my mode of traveling -being such as to prevent my making regular references to the -thermometer; and during the intense cold which prevailed some part of -the winter, the mercury of the barometer sank into the bulb. I was -also frequently obliged to be absent from my party, when it was -impossible for me to carry instruments. Those different circumstances -occasioned the omissions which appear in the table. The instrument -employed was Reaumer's, but the observations made have been adapted to -the scale of Fahrenheit.--Z. M. PIKE, 1st lieutenant. - - =====+==============+========+================+=========+======+=======+===== - | Thermometer | | Wind | | | |Baro- - | (degrees) | | | | | |meter - Date +----+----+----+ Sky +--------+-------+ N. | W. | Var. |(in.) - |sun-| 3 |sun-| | Course |Force | Lat. | Long.| | - |rise|p.m.|set | | | | | | | - -----+----+----+----+--------+--------+-------+---------+------+-------+----- - Aug.| | | | | | | | | | - 6 | ...| ...| ...| clear | S S E | fresh | 39°1' |15°20'| 7°54' | 28.5 - | | | | | | | | Ph. | | - 7 | ...| 90 | ...|thunder-| N W | very | ... | ... | ... | 28 - | | | | storm | | hard | | | | - 8 | ...| 75 | ...| rain | N W | do. | ... | ... | ... | 28.5 - 9 | ...| 83 | ...| cloudy | S by E | light | ... | ... | ... | 28.8 - 10 | ...| 97 | ...| flying | W |squally| ... | ... | ... | 28 - | | | | clouds | | | | | | - 11 | ...|108½| ...| do. | W by S | ... | ... | ... | ... | 20 - 12 | ...|101¾| ...| rain | S by W | fresh | ... | ... | ... | 29.2 - 13 | ...| 83¾| ...| hard | N W | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - | | | | rain | | | | | | - 14 | ...| 81½| ...| do. | S by E | do. | ... | ... | ... | 28.5 - 15 | ...| 88¼| ...| rainy | N W | do. | 40°31" |16°41"| ... | 29 - 16 | ...| 90½| ...| clear | N W |gentle | ... | ... | ... | 30 - 17 | ...| 88¼| ...| do. | S E | do. | ... | ... | ... | 30.2 - 18 | ...| 81½| ...| cloudy | N W |strong | ... | ... | ... | 28.5 - 19 | ...| 99½| ...| clear | N W |gentle | ... | ... | ... | 30 - 20 | ...| 90½| ...| do. | E | do. | ... | ... | ... | 30 - 21 | ...| 88¼| ...| cloudy | S E | fresh |40°32'12"| ... | ... | 29 - 22 | ...| 90½| ...| clear | N by W |strong | ... | ... | ... | 29.5 - 23 | ...|106¼| ...| do. | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | 30 - 24 | ...| 82¾| ...| clear | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | 30 - 25 | ...| 81¼| ...| cloudy | N by W |strong | ... | ... | ... | 2 - 26 | 61¼| 72½| ...| rain | N by W | gale | ... | ... | ... | ... - 27 | 54½| 63½| ...| do. | N by W | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 28 | 52¼| 61¼| ...| do. | S by E | hard | ... | ... | ... | ... - 29 | 52¼| 72½| ...| cloudy | S by E | fresh | ... | ... | ... | 28.5 - 30 | 61¼| 88¼| ...| clear | S by W | do. | ... | ... | ... | 28 - 31 | ...| 92¾| ...| do. | S by W |gentle | ... | ... | ... | 28.5 - =====+==============+========+================+=========+======+=======+===== - - =====+==============+========+================+=========+======+=======+===== - | Thermometer | | Wind | | | |Baro- - | (degrees) | | | | | |meter - Date +----+----+----+ Sky +--------+-------+ N. | W. | Var. |(in.) - |sun-| 3 |sun-| | Course |Force | Lat. | Long.| | - |rise|p.m.|set | | | | | | | - -----+----+----+----+--------+--------+-------+---------+------+-------+----- - Sept.| | | | | | | | | | - 1 | ...| 88¼| ...| clear | S E | fresh | ... | ... | ... | 30 - 2 | ...| 95 | ...| do. | S |gentle | ... | ... | ... | 29.3 - 3 | ...| 79¼| ...| cloudy | N W | do. | ... | ... | ... | 28.8 - 4 | ...| 77 | ...| do. | S W | do. |43°44'8" | ... | ... | 29 - 5 | ...| 88¼| ...| rain | S W | fresh | ... | ... | ... | 27 - 6 | ...| 95 | ...| clear | S by E | do. | ... | ... | ... | 27 - 7 | ...| 86 | ...| cloudy | S by E | do. | ... | ... | ... | 28 - 8 | ...| 99½| ...| do. | S by E | do. | ... | ... | ... | 29.5 - 9 | ...| 92¾| ...| do. | S |gentle | ... | ... | ... | 28.8 - 10 | ...| 72½| ...| rain | N by W | fresh | ... | ... | ... | ... - 11 | ...| 59 | ...| do. | N by E | hard | ... | ... | ... | ... - 12 | ...| 52¼| ...| do. | N by E | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 13 | ...| 50 | ...| do. | N |gentle | ... | ... | ... | ... - 14 | ...| 43¼| ...| clear | S E | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 15 | ...| 65¾| ...| rain | S E | do. | ... | ... | ... | 28 - 16 | ...| 77 | ...| rising | S E | fresh | ... | ... | ... | 28.5 - | | | | clouds | | | | | | - 17 | ...| 65¾| ...| rain | N W | hard | ... | ... | ... | ... - 18 | ...| 77 | ...| cloudy | N W |gentle |45°44'8" | ... | ... | ... - 19 | ...| 65¾| ...| do. | S E | fresh | ... | ... | ... | ... - 20 | ...| 72½| ...| clear | N W | do. | ... | ... | ... | 28.5 - 21 | 41 | 77 | ...| do. | S E |gentle | ... | ... | ... | 29 - 22 | ...| 77 | ...| do. | N W | fresh | ... | ... | ... | ... - 23 | ...| 81½| ...| cloudy | N W | do. | ... | ... | ... | 28.5 - 24 | ...| 86 | ...| do. | N W | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 25 | ...| 77 | ...| flying | N W | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - | | | | clouds | | | | | | - 26 | ...| 65¾| ...| cloudy | S E | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 27 | ...| 65¾| ...| do. | S E | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 28 | ...| 65¾| ...| rain | S by E | hard | ... | ... | ... | 28 - 29 | ...| 72½| ...| cloudy | S by E |fresh, | ... | ... | ... | ... - | | | | | | hard | | | | - 30 | ...| 65¾| ...| do. | N E | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - Oct.| | | | | | | | | | - 1 | 50 | 65¾| ...| cloudy | N W |fresh | 45° | ... | ... | 28.5 - 2 | 50 | 72½| ...| rain | N W | | ... | ... | ... | 28 - 3 | 32 | 50 | ...| clear | N W | | ... | ... | ... | 28.4 - 4 | 32 | 50 | ...| cloudy,| N W | | ... | ... | ... | 29 - | | | | hail | | | | | | - 5 | 32 | 23 | ...| clear | N W | hard | ... | ... | ... | 29.5 - 6 | 32 | 23 | ...| do. | N W | do. | ... | ... | ... | 29.5 - 7 | 36½| 50 | ...| do. | N W | do. | ... | ... | ... | 29 - 8 | 26 | 50 | ...| do. | S E | fresh | ... | ... | ... | 29.5 - 9 | 41 | 54½| ...| do. | W by N | | ... | ... | ... | 29.5 - 10 | 50 | 88¼| 65¾| do. | S by W | do. | ... | ... | ... | 29.5 - 11 | 36½| 65¾| 54½| do. | N by W | do. | ... | ... | ... | 29 - 12 | 36½| 59 | 36½| do. | N by W | hard | ... | ... | ... | 29.5 - 13 | 36 | 72½| 59 | do. | S by W | fresh | ... | ... | ... | 36.2 - 14 | 36 | 65¾| 50 | do. | N W |gentle | ... | ... | ... | 29 - 15 | 43¼| 54½| 41 | cloudy,| N by W | fresh | ... | ... | ... | 28.5 - | | | | rain | | | | | | - 16 | 50 | 65¾| 54½| snow | do. | do. |45°33'3" | ... | ... | 28.5 - 17 | 41 | 50 | 52 | do. | do. | do. | ... | ... | ... | 28 - 18 | 43¼| 54½| 50 | cloudy | S by W | do. | ... | ... | ... | 29.5 - 19 | 45½| 59 | 54½| clear, | do. |gentle | ... | ... | ... | 29.8 - | | | | cloudy | | | | | | - 20 | 43¼| 54 | 43¼| do. | do. | do. | ... | ... | ... | 29.5 - 21 | 23 | 14 | 20 | clear | do. | do. | ... | ... | ... | 29 - 22 | 29 | 45 | 32 | cloudy,| N by W | do. | ... | ... | ... | 28.5 - | | | | snow | | | | | | - 23 | 20 | 27 | 23 | do. | N W | do. | ... | ... | ... | 29.3 - 24 | 20 | 27 | 23 | do. | N W | do. | ... | ... | ... | 29 - 25 | 16 | 23 | 43 | cloudy | ... | do. | ... | ... | 9°10' | 29 - 26 | 11 | 20 | 32 | clear | W | do. | ... | ... | ... | 29.5 - 27 | 20 | 32 | 43¼| do. | W | do. | ... | ... | ... | 30 - 28 | 20 | 43 | 47 | do. | N E | do. |45°33'3" | ... | 9°10'S| 29.5 - 29 | 27 | 50 | 43 | cloudy,| N E | do. | ... | ... | ... | 29 - | | | | rain | | | | | | - 30 | 50 | 52 | 50 | do. | N E | do. | ... | ... | ... | 28.5 - 31 | 32 | 43 | 47 | cloudy | N | do. | ... | ... | 9°10'S| 28 - =====+==============+========+================+=========+======+=======+===== - -REMARKS.--Sept. 1st, The [Dubuque] Mines. Sept. 5th, Prairie De Chien. -Sept. 10th, Barometer below 28. Sept. 18th, Lake Pepin. Sept. 22d, -River St. Peter's. Sept. 27th, Falls of St. Anthony. Oct. 16th, Pine -Creek Rapids. Oct. 28th, Pine Creek. - - =====+===============+=======+================+=========+======+=======+===== - | Thermometer | | Wind | | | |Baro- - | (degrees) | | | | | |meter - Date +----+-----+----+ Sky +--------+-------+ N. | W. | Var. |(in.) - |sun-| 3 |sun-| | Course |Force | Lat. |Long. | | - |rise|p.m. |set | | | | | | | - -----+----+-----+----+-------+--------+-------+---------+------+-------+----- - Nov.| | | | | | | | | | - 1 | 36 | ... | ...| rain | ... | ... |45°33'3" | ... | ... | 28 - 2 | ...| ... | ...| snow | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 3 | ...|warm | ...| fair | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 4 | ...|fresh| ...| do. | N E |gentle | ... | ... | ... | ... - 5 | ...|warm | ...| do. | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 6 | ...|cool | ...| snow | N W | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 7 | ...|warm | ...| hail, | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - | | | | rain | | | | | | - 8 | ...| do. | ...| light | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - | | | | snow | | | | | | - 9 | ...|cold | 27 | do. | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 10 | 14 | 20 | 20 | clear | N W |gentle | ... | ... | ... | 28 - 11 | 20 | 25 | 25 | do. | S E | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 12 | 27 | 25 | 27 |cloudy | S W | do. | ... | ... | ... | 28.5 - 13 | 38 | 36 | 38 | do. | ... | do. | ... | ... | ... | 28.5 - 14 | 41 | ... | ... | rain | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 15 | 47 | 38 | 41 |cloudy | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 16 | 54 | 36 | 47 | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 17 | 47 | 36 | 32 | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 18 | 36 | 34 | 32 |clear | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 19 | 38 | 36 | 23 | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 20 | 38 | 36 | 41 | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 21 | 41 | 36 | 45 | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 22 | 41 | 36 | 38 | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 23 | 41 | 32 | 27 | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 24 | 38 | 34 | 32 | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 25 | 41 | 38 | 38 | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 26 | 38 | 32 | 34 | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 27 | 38 | 38 | 34 | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 28 | 29 | 43 | 41 |clear | N W | fresh | ... | ... | ... | ... - 29 | 23 | 32 | 36 | do. | N |gentle | ... | ... | ... | ... - 30 | 16 | 27 | 25 | do. | N by W | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - Dec.| | | | | | | | | | - 1 | 25 | 32 | 32 | snow | S W |gentle |45°33'9" | ... | ... | ... - 2 | 7 | 27 | 16 |clear | S E | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 3 | 16 | 32 | 20 | do. | S E | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 4 | 20 | 32 | 27 | do. | S E | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 5 | 23 | 32 | 32 |cloudy | S E | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 6 | 25 | 32 | 32 |clear | S E | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 7 | 20 | 27 | 25 | do. | S E | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 8 | 16 | 25 | 27 | do. | S E | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 9 | 20 | 25 | 23 | do. | N E | fresh | ... | ... | ... | ... - 10 | 23 | 27 | 29 |cloudy | N W | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 11 | 27 | ... | 43 | do. | S E |gentle | ... | ... | ... | ... - 12 | 29 | ... | 32 | do. | N W | fresh | ... | ... | ... | ... - 13 | 38 | ... | 32 | snow | N W | hard | ... | ... | ... | ... - 15 | 7 | ... | 11 |cloudy | N W | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 16 | 9 | ... | 43 |clear | S |gentle | ... | ... | ... | ... - 17 | 20 | ... | 32 | do. | S E | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 18 | 36 | ... | 36 | do. | S E | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 19 | 36 | ... | 25 |cloudy | SE, NW | fresh | ... | ... | ... | ... - 20 | 25 | ... | 32 | do. | N E |gentle | ... | ... | ... | ... - 21 | 18 | ... | 27 | do. | N E | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 22 | 2 | ... | 5 |clear | N E | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 23 | 2 | ... | 32 | do. | N E | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 24 | 5 | ... | 27 | do. | N E | do. |45°49'50"| ... | ... | ... - 25 | 27 | ... | 27 |cloudy | N W | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 26 | 23 | ... | 29 | do. | N E | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 27 | 23 | ... | 29 | snow | E | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 28 | 23 | ... | 32 |cloudy | S W | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 29 | 20 | ... | 11 |clear | N W | hard | ... | ... | ... | ... - 30 | 9 | ... | 11 | do. | W | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 31 | 9 | ... | 20 | do. | W | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - =====+===============+=======+================+=========+======+=======+===== - -REMARKS.--Nov. 2d, Absent from camp. Nov. 6th, Thunder and lightning. -Nov. 9th, Return to camp. Nov. 11th-12th, Thawing. Nov. 13th, Smoky. -Nov. 14th, Thunder and lightning. Nov. 16th-19th, Freezing. Nov. -20th-21st, Thawing. Nov. 22d, Freezing. Nov. 23d-27th, Thawing. Dec. -11th, Thawing. Dec. 12th, Slight snow. Dec. 13th, Storm. Dec. 14th, -Stormy. Dec. 17th-18th, Thawing. Dec. 19th-25th, Freezing. Dec. 28th, -Very cold. Dec. 31st, Very cold. - - =====+=================+=======+==============+=========+======+=======+===== - | Thermometer | | Wind | | | |Baro- - | (degrees) | | | | | |meter - Date +-------+----+----+ Sky +------+-------+ N. | W. | Var. |(in.) - |sunrise| 3 |sun-| |Course| Force | Lat. |Long. | | - | |p.m.|set | | | | | | | - -----+-------+----+----+-------+------+-------+---------+------+-------+----- - Jan.| | | | | | | | | - 1 |17-4/10|... | 11 |cloudy,| N E | fresh | ... | ... | ... | ... - | | | | snow | | | | | | - 2 | 2 |... | 20 |clear | E | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 3 |20 |... | 25 | do. | W | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 4 |23 |... | 25 | do. | W | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 5 |33-5/10|... | 20 | do. | E | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 6 |20 |... | 9 | snow | W | hard |46°9'20" | ... | ... | ... - 7 |15-2/10|... | 1 |clear | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 8 | ... |... |... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 9 | ... |... |... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 10 | ... |... |... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 11 | ... |... |... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 12 | ... |... | 2 |clear | S E | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 13 |28-5/10|... | 6 | do. | ... | ... |46°9'20" |22°13'| ... | ... - 14 |24 |... | 1 | do. | N | ... |46°9'20" | ... | 3°41'W| ... - 15 |33-5/10|... | 6 | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 16 |19-8/10|... | 5 | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 17 | 6 | 23 | 20 | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 18 | 9 | 25 | 20 | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 19 | ... |... |... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 20 | ... |... |... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 21 | ... |... | 23 | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 22 |14 |... | 27 |clear | N W | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 23 |27 |... | 27 | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 24 |27 | 29 | 32 |cloudy |S by E| ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 25 | ... | 27 |... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 26 | ... | 5 |... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 27 | ... | 5 |... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 28 | 4 | 2 | 5 | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 29 | 5 | 14 | 11 | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 30 | 1 | 14 |... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 31 | 8 | 14 |... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - Feb.| | | | | | | | | | - 1 |10 | 7 | 5 |clear | ... | ... |47°16'13"| ... | ... | ... - 2 | 5 | 9 | 14 | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 3 | 7 | 27 | 23 | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 4 | 1 | 9 | 1 | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 5 |10 | 14 | 7 | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 6 | 5 | 27 | 11 | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 7 | 2 | 23 | 20 | do. | W | fresh | ... | ... | ... | ... - 8 | 8 | 1 | 9 | do. | W | hard | ... | ... | ... | ... - 9 |17-5/10| 1 | 8 | snow | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 10 |17-5/10| 1 | 5 | do. | N E |gentle | ... | ... | ... | ... - 11 | 1 | 7 | 1 |clear | S E | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 12 | 5 | 16 | 1 | do. | N E | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 13 |23 | 36 | 32 |hail, |S by E| fresh | ... | ... | ... | ... - | | | |clouds | | | | | | - 14 |11 | 36 | 32 |clear | N W | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 15 | 5 | 20 | 16 | do. | N W | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 16 | 2 | 23 | 16 | do. | S W | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 17 | 5 | 32 | 32 |sleet, | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - | | | | snow | | | | | | - 18 |14 | 32 |... |clear | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 19 | ... |... | 20 | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 20 | 1 |... | 27 | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 21 |14 |... | 27 | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 22 |16 |... | 27 | do. | ... | ... |46°32'32"| ... | ... | ... - 23 |14 |... | 23 | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 24 |16 |... | 20 | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 25 |11 |... | 25 | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 26 |23 |... | 36 | do. | S W | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 27 |16 |... | 11 | ... | N W | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 28 |16 |... |... | ... | N W | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - =====+=================+=======+==============+=========+======+=======+===== - -REMARKS.--Jan. 6th, Lake Sable. Jan. 7th, Absent for six days. Feb. -1st, Leech Lake. Feb. 22d, White Fish Lake. - - =====+==============+========+================+=========+======+=======+===== - |Thermometer | | Wind | | | |Baro- - | (degrees) | | | | | |meter - Date +----+----+----+ Sky +--------+-------+ N. | W. | Var. |(in.) - |sun-| 3 |sun-| | Course |Force | Lat. |Long. | | - |rise|p.m.|set | | | | | | | - -----+----+----+----+--------+--------+-------+---------+------+-------+----- - Mar.| | | | | | | | | | - 1 | 16 | ...| 16 | clear | S E | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 2 | 16 | ...| 20 | cloudy | S E | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 3 | 20 | ...| 43 | clear | E | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 4 | 20 | ...| 27 | do. | E | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 5 | 25 | ...| 29 | do. | ... | ... |45°33'3" | ... | ... | ... - 6 | 36 | ...| 27 | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 7 | 29 | 41 | 27 | clear, | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - | | | | warm | | | | | | - 8 | 29 | 25 | 23 | cloudy | S E | hard | ... | ... | ... | ... - 9 | 36 | 43 | 41 | clear | S E | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 10 | 25 | 25 | 27 | do. | N E | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 11 | 32 | 36 | 38 | cloudy | S E | fresh | ... | ... | ... | ... - 12 | 34 | 47 | 38 | clear | N W | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 13 | 33 | 43 | 27 | do. | N W | ... |45°14'8" | ... | ... | ... - 14 | 38 | 43 | 34 | do. | N W | fresh | ... | ... | ... | ... - 15 | 50 | 41 | 36 | do. | N | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 16 | 38 | 43 | 36 | do. | E | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 17 | 32 | 32 | 32 | snow | N W | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 18 | 32 | 32 | 32 | do. | N | do. |43°44'8" | ... | ... | ... - 19 | 32 | 32 | 29 | do. | N E | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 20 | 29 | 38 | 29 | cloudy | N by E | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 21 | 9 | 32 | 20 | clear | N W | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 22 | 1 | 9 | 14 | do. | N E | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 23 | 7 | 32 | 32 | do. | E | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 24 | 5 | 25 | 32 | cloudy | N E | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 25 | 25 | 32 | 32 | snow | S E | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 26 | 11 | 25 | 27 | clear | E | fresh | ... | ... | ... | ... - 27 | 38 | 54 | 43 | do. | S E | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 28 | 36 | 41 | 43 | do. | S W | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 29 | 29 | 70 | 54 | do. | S E | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 30 | 52 | 56 | 43 | cloudy | N E | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 31 | 32 | 61 | 43 | clear | N E | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - Apr.| | | | | | | | | | - 1 | 29 | 61 | 43 | clear | N E | fresh | ... | ... | ... | ... - 2 | 34 | 74 | 63 | do. | S | hard | ... | ... | ... | ... - 3 | 45 | 70 | 43 | do. | N E | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 4 | 20 | 45 | 41 | do. | N E | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 5 | 29 | 45 | 38 | cloudy | N E | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 6 | 27 | 43 | 36 | do. | N E | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 7 | 23 | ...| 32 | snow | N E | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 8 | 41 | ...| 34 | cloudy | N | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 9 | 5 | 18 | 32 | clear | N E | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 10 | 5 | 54 | 25 | do. | N E | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 11 | 18 | 32 | 32 | snow | S E | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 12 | 10 | 54 | 43 | clear | S E | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 13 | 32 | 50 | 45 | do. | S E | hard | ... | ... | ... | ... - 14 | 38 | 50 | 45 | cloudy,| S E | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - | | | | rain | | | | | | - 15 | 34 | 52 | 32 | snow | S E | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 16 | 34 | 50 | 41 | do. | N W |fresh | ... | ... | ... | ... - 17 | 34 | 70 | 43 | clear | N W | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 18 | 45 | 92 | 63 | do. | N W | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 19 | 50 | 99 | 81 | do. | S E | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 20 | 59 | 95 | 79 | do. | S E | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 21 | 54 | 92 | 63 | cloudy | N W | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 22 | 43 | 63 | 52 | clear | N W |fresh | ... | ... | ... | ... - 23 | 36 | 72 | 63 | do. | S E | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 24 | 43 | 70 | 61 | cloudy | S E | hard | ... | ... | ... | ... - 25 | 43 | 54 | 47 | cloudy,| S E | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - | | | | rain | | | | | | - 26 | 43 | 50 |... | do. | S E | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 27 | 43 | 95 | 77 | clear | N E |gentle | ... | ... | ... | ... - 28 | 43 | 81 | 72 | cloudy | S E | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 29 | 38 | 59 |... | rain | N W | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - =====+==============+========+================+=========+======+=======+===== - -REMARKS.--Mar. 1st, Lower Red Cedar Lake. Mar. 6th, Snow at night. -Mar. 7th, Pine Creek. Mar. 9th, Very warm; ice melting fast. Mar. -11th, Raw and disagreeable. Mar. 12th, Ice melting fast. Mar. 15th, -Small snow in the night. Mar. 17th, Sleet and snow. Mar. 18th-19th, -Heavy snow. Mar. 20th, Thawing at noon; water rising. Mar. 21st, Cold. -Mar. 22d, Extraordinary cold. Mar. 24th, Sauteurs. Mar. 25th, Very -stormy. Mar. 26th, Moderate. Mar. 27th, Warm. Mar. 28th, Warm, -thunder, lightning. Mar. 29th, Warm, thunder, lightning, rain. Apr. -1st, Ice breaking up by degrees. Apr. 2d-3d, Ice commenced running. -Apr. 5th, Snow. Apr. 6th, River entirely breaks up. Apr. 8th, Snow, -hail. Apr. 9th, Remarkably cold. Apr. 11th, Snow falls three inches. - -FOOTNOTE: - -[IV-1] In the orig. ed. these Tables made five unpaged leaves, bound to -follow blank p. 106, and thus were appended to the main text of Pike's -itinerary, not put in the Appendix to Part I. It really makes little -difference where these Tables go, as nobody ever reads such matter. I -leave them where I find them, on the general principle of interfering -as little as possible with the original composition of the book, -simply introducing a chapter-head for their accommodation; and shall -pass this thrilling chapter without further remark. - - - - -CHAPTER V. - -CORRESPONDENCE AND CONFERENCES.[V-1] - - -_Art. 1. Letter, Pike to Wilkinson. (Orig. No. 1, pp. 1, 2.)_ - - HEAD OF THE RAPIDS DE MOYEN, Aug. 20th, 1805. - -DEAR GENERAL: - -I arrived here this day, after what I have considered as rather an -unfortunate voyage, having had a series of rainy weather for the first -six days, by which means all our biscuit was more or less damaged, -they being in very bad and open barrels; and our having got twice so -fast on forked sawyers or old trees as to oblige me partly to unload, -and staving in a plank on another [sawyer], which nearly sunk our boat -before we got on shore and detained us one whole day. These all -occasioned unavoidable detentions of two days, and the innumerable -islands and sand-bars which, without exaggeration, exceed those of the -river below the Ohio, have been the cause of much unexpected delay. -But I calculate on getting to Prairie de Chien in at least the same -time I was in coming [from St. Louis] here. - -We were met yesterday on the Rapids by Mr. William Ewing, who is sent -here by the government of the United States to teach the savages -agriculture; and who, I perceive in Governor Harrison's instructions, -is termed an agent of the United States, under the instructions of P. -Choteau, with, he says, a salary of $500 per annum. I conceived you -did not know of this functionary, else you would have mentioned him to -me. He was accompanied by Monsieur Louis Tisson Houire [Tesson -Honoré[V-2]], who informed me he had calculated on going with me as my -interpreter; he said that you had spoken to him on the occasion, and -appeared much disappointed when I told him I had no instructions to -that effect. He also said he had promised to discover mines, etc., -which no person knew but himself; but, as I conceive him much of a -hypocrite, and possessing great gasconism, I am happy he was not -chosen for my voyage. They brought with them three peroques of -Indians, who lightened my barge and assisted me up the Rapids. They -expressed great regret at the news of two men having been killed on -the river below, which I believe to be a fact, as I have it from -various channels, and were very apprehensive they would be censured by -our government as the authors [of these murders], though from every -inquiry they conceive it not to be the case, and seem to ascribe the -murders to the Kickapoos. They strongly requested I would hear what -they had to say on the subject; this, with an idea that this place -would be a central position for a trading establishment for the Sacs, -Reynards, Iowas of the de Moyen, Sioux from the head of said [Des -Moines] river, and Paunte [Puants] of the de Roche [Rock river], has -induced me to halt part of the day to-morrow. I should say more -relative to Messrs. Ewing and Houire, only that they propose visiting -you with the Indians who descend, as I understand by your request, in -about 30 days, when your penetration will give you _le tout ensemble_ -of their characters [note 18, p. 15]. - -I have taken the liberty of inclosing a letter to Mrs. Pike to your -care. My compliments to Lieutenant Wilkinson, and the tender of my -highest respects for your lady, with the best wishes for your health -and prosperity. - - I am, General, - Your obedient servant, - [Signed] Z. M. PIKE. - - GENERAL WILKINSON. - - -_Art. 2. Letter, Pike to Wilkinson. (Orig. No. 2, pp. 2-4.)_ - - PRAIRIE DU CHIEN, Sept. 5th, 1805. - -DEAR GENERAL: - -I arrived here day before yesterday, and found my interpreter gone in -the employ of Mr. Dickson. I then endeavored to gain information -relative to crossing the falls; and amidst the ignorance of the -Canadians, and all the contradiction in the world, I have learned it -is impossible to carry my large barge round the shoot [chute]. I have -therefore hired two Schenectady barges, in which I shall embark day -after to-morrow, with some expectation and hope of seeing the head of -the Mississippi and the town of St. Louis yet this winter. - -I have chosen three places for military establishments. The first is -on a hill about 40 miles above the river de Moyen rapids, on the W. -side of the river, in about 41° 2' N. latitude. The channel of the -river runs on that shore; the hill in front is about 60 feet -perpendicular, nearly level on the top; 400 yards in the rear is a -small prairie fit for gardening; over on the E. side of the river you -have an elegant view on an immense prairie, as far as the eye can -extend, now and then interrupted by clumps of trees; and, to crown -all, immediately under the hill is a limestone spring, sufficient for -the consumption of a regiment. The landing is good and bold, and at -the point of the hill a road could be made for a wagon in half a day. -This place I conceive to be the best to answer the general's -instructions relative to an intermediate post between Prairie de Chien -and St. Louis; but if its being on the W. bank is a material -objection, about 30 miles above the second Sac village at the third -yellow bank on the E. side is a commanding place, on a prairie and -most elegantly situated; but it is scarce of timber, and no water but -that of the Mississippi. When then thinking of the post to be -established at the Ouiscousing [mouth of Wisconsin river], I did not -look at the general's instructions. I therefore pitched on a spot on -the top of the hill on the W. side of the Mississippi [at or near -McGregor, Clayton Co., Ia.], which is ---- feet high, level on the -top, and completely commands both rivers, the Mississippi being only -one-half mile wide and the Ouiscousing about 900 yards when full. -There is plenty of timber in the rear, and a spring at no great -distance on the hill. If this position is to have in view the -annoyance of any European power who might be induced to attack it with -cannon, it has infinitely the preference to a position called the -Petit Gris on the Ouiscousing, which I visited and marked the next -day. This latter position is three miles up the Ouiscousing, on a -prairie hill on the W. side, where we should be obliged to get our -timber from the other side of the river, and our water out of it; -there is likewise a small channel which runs on the opposite side, -navigable in high water, which could not be commanded by the guns of -the fort, and a hill about three-quarters of a mile in the rear, from -which it could be cannonaded. These two positions I have marked by -blazing trees, etc. Mr. Fisher of this place will direct any officer -who may be sent to occupy them. I found the confluence of the -Ouiscousing and Mississippi to be in lat. 43° 28' 8" N. - -The day of my arrival at the lead mines, I was taken with a fever -which, with Monsieur Dubuque's having no horses about his house, -obliged me to content myself with proposing to him the inclosed -queries [Art. 3]; the answers seem to carry with them the semblance of -equivocation. - -Messrs. Dubuque and Dickson were about sending a number of chiefs to -St. Louis, but the former confessing he was not authorized, I have -stopped them without in the least dissatisfying the Indians. - -Dickson is at Michilimackinac. I cannot say I have experienced much -spirit of accommodation from his clerks, when in their power to oblige -me; but I beg leave to recommend to your attention Mr. James Aird, who -is now in your country, as a gentleman to whose humanity and -politeness I am much indebted; also Mr. Fisher of this place, the -captain of militia and justice of the peace. - -A band of Sioux between here and the Mississippi have applied for two -medals, in order that they may have their chiefs distinguished as -friends of the Americans: if the general thinks proper to send them -here to the care of Mr. Fisher, with any other commands, they may -possibly meet me here, or at the falls of St. Anthony, on my return. - -[Lacuna here, indicating suppression of certain Spanish privacies.] - -The above suggestion would only be acceptable under the idea of our -differences with Spain being compromised; as should there be war, the -field of action is the sphere for young men, where they hope, or at -least aspire, to gather laurels or renown to smooth the decline of -age, or a glorious death. You see, my dear general, I write to you -like a person addressing a father; at the same time I hope you will -consider me, not only in a professional but a personal view, one who -holds you in the highest respect and esteem. My compliments to -Lieutenant Wilkinson, and my highest respects to your lady. - - I am, General, - Your obedient servant, - [Signed] Z. M. PIKE, Lt. - - GENERAL WILKINSON. - - -_Art. 3. The Dubuque Interrogation.[V-3] Queries proposed to Mr. -Dubuque, with his answers._ - -1. What is the date of your grant of the mines from the savages? - -_Ans._ The copy of the grant is in Mr. [Antoine Pierre] Soulard's -[Surveyor-general's] office at St. Louis. - -2. What is the date of the confirmation by the Spaniards? - -_Ans._ The same as to query first. - -3. What is the extent of your grant? - -_Ans._ The same as above. - -4. What is the extent of the mines? - -_Ans._ Twenty-eight or twenty-seven leagues long, and from one to -three broad. - -5. Lead made per annum? - -_Ans._ From 20,000 to 40,000 pounds. - -6. Quantity of lead per cwt. of mineral? - -_Ans._ Seventy-five per cent. - -7. Quantity of lead in pigs? - -_Ans._ All we make, as we neither manufacture bar, sheet-lead, nor -shot. - -8. If mixed with any other mineral? - -_Ans._ We have seen some copper, but having no person sufficiently -acquainted with chemistry to make the experiment properly, cannot say -as to the proportion it bears to the lead. - - [Signed] Z. M. PIKE. - - DUBUQUE LEAD MINES, Sept. 1st, 1805. - - -_Art. 4. Speech, Pike to the Sioux[V-4] (Part of Orig. No. 3, pp. -6-8), delivered at the entrance of the river St. Peter's, Sept. 23d, -1803._ - -BROTHERS: I am happy to meet you here at this council fire, which your -father has sent me to kindle, and to take you by the hands as our -children, we having lately acquired from the Spanish [read French] the -extensive territory of Louisiana. Our general has thought proper to -send out a number of his young warriors to visit all his red children, -to tell them his will, and to hear what request they may have to make -of their father. I am happy the choice has fallen on me to come this -road; as I find my brothers, the Sioux, ready to listen to my words. - -BROTHERS: It is the wish of our government to establish military posts -on the Upper Mississippi, at such places as may be thought expedient. -I have therefore examined the country, and have pitched on the mouth -of the St. Croix, this place [mouth of the Minnesota river], and the -Falls of St. Anthony. I therefore wish you to grant to the United -States nine miles square at St. Croix; and at this place, from a -league below the confluence of St. Peter's and the Mississippi to a -league above St. Anthony, extending three leagues on each side of the -river. As we are a people who are accustomed to have all our acts -written down, in order to have them handed down to our children, I -have drawn up a form of an agreement which we will both sign in the -presence of the traders now present. After we know the terms we will -fill it up, and have it read and interpreted to you. - -BROTHERS: Those posts are intended as a benefit to you. The old -chiefs now present must see that their situation improves by -communication with the whites. It is the intention of the United -States to establish factories at those posts, in which the Indians may -procure all their things at a cheaper and better rate then they do -now, or than your traders can afford to sell them to you, as they are -single men who come far in small boats. But your fathers are many and -strong; they will come with a strong arm, in large boats. There will -also be chiefs here, who can attend to the wants of their brothers, -without your sending or going all the way to St. Louis; they will see -the traders that go up your rivers, and know that they are good men. - -BROTHERS: Another object your father has at heart, is to endeavor to -make peace between you and the Chipeways. You have now been a long -time at war, and when will you stop? If neither side will lay down the -hatchet, your paths will always be red with blood; but if you will -consent to make peace, and suffer your father to bury the hatchet -between you, I will endeavor to bring down some of the Chipeway chiefs -with me to St. Louis, where the good work can be completed under the -auspices of your mutual father. I am much pleased to see that the -young warriors have halted to hear my words this day; and as I know it -is hard for a warrior to be struck and not strike again, I will send -word to the chiefs by the first Chipeway I meet, that, if they have -not yet felt your tomahawk, it is not because you have not the legs or -the hearts of men, but because you have listened to the voice of your -father. - -BROTHERS: If their chiefs do not listen to the voice of their father, -and continue to commit murders on you and our traders, they will call -down the vengeance of the Americans; for they are not like a blind man -walking into the fire. They were once at war with us, and joined to -all the northern Indians; they were defeated at Roche De Boeuff, and -were obliged to sue for peace; that peace we granted them. They know -we are not children, but, like all wise people, are slow to shed -blood. - -BROTHERS: Your old men probably know that about 30 years ago we were -subject to and governed by the king of the English; but he not -treating us like children, we would no longer acknowledge him as -father; and after ten years' war, in which he lost 100,000 men, he -acknowledged us a free and independent nation. They know that not many -years since we received Detroit, Michilimackinac, and all the posts on -the lakes from the English; and now--but the other day--Louisiana from -the Spanish [French]; so that we put one foot on the sea at the east -and the other on the sea at the west; and if once children, are now -men. Yet, I think the traders who come from Canada are bad birds -amongst the Chipeways, and instigate them to make war on their red -brothers the Sioux, in order to prevent our traders from going high up -the Mississippi. This I shall inquire into, and if it be so, shall -warn those persons of their ill conduct. - -BROTHERS: Mr. Choteau was sent by your father to the Osage nation, -with one of his young chiefs.[V-5] He sailed some days before me, and -had not time to procure the medals which I am told he promised to send -up; but they will be procured. - -BROTHERS: I wish you to have some of your head chiefs ready to go down -with me in the spring. From the head of the St. Pierre also, such -other chiefs as you may think proper, to the number of four or five. -When I pass here on my way I will send you word at what time you will -meet me at the Prairie des Chiens. - -BROTHERS: I expect that you will give orders to all your young -warriors to respect my flag, and its protection which I may extend to -the Chipeway chiefs who may come down with me in the spring; for were -a dog to run to my lodge for safety, his enemy must walk over me to -hurt him. - -BROTHERS: Here is a flag, which I wish to send to the Gens de -Feuilles, to show them they are not forgotten by their father. I wish -the comrade of their chief to take it on himself to deliver it with my -words. - -BROTHERS: I am told that hitherto the traders have made a practice of -selling rum to you. All of you in your right senses must know that it -is injurious, and occasions quarrels, murders, etc., amongst -yourselves. For this reason your father has thought proper to prohibit -the traders from selling you any rum. Therefore, I hope my brothers -the chiefs, when they know of a trader who sells an Indian rum, will -prevent that Indian from paying his [that trader's] credit. This will -break up the pernicious practice and oblige your father. But I hope -you will not encourage your young men to treat our traders ill from -this circumstance, or from a hope of the indulgence formerly -experienced; but make your complaints to persons in this country, who -will be authorized to do you justice. - -BROTHERS: I now present you with some of your father's tobacco and -other trifling things, as a memorandum of my good will; and before my -departure I will give you some liquor to clear your throats. - - -_Art 5. The Sioux Treaty[V-6] of Sept. 23d, 1805._ (_Part of Orig. No. -3, pp. 8, 9._) - -Whereas, at a conference held between the United States of America and -the Sioux nation of Indians: lieutenant Z. M. Pike, of the army of the -United States, and the chiefs and the warriors of said tribe, have -agreed to the following articles, which, when ratified and approved of -by the proper authority, shall be binding on both parties. - -_Art. 1._ That the Sioux nation grant unto the United States, for the -purpose of establishment of military posts, nine miles square at the -mouth of the St. Croix,[*] also from below the confluence of the -Mississippi and St. Peters up the Mississippi to include the falls of -St. Anthony, extending nine miles on each side of the river, that the -Sioux nation grants to the United States the full sovereignty and -power over said district for ever. - -[*] My demand was one league below: their reply was "from -below."--I imagine (without iniquity) they may be made to agree. -[Orig. Note.] - -_Art. 2._ That, in consideration of the above grants, the United -States shall pay (filled up by the senate with 2000 dollars.) - -_Art. 3._ The United States promise, on their part, to permit the -Sioux to pass and repass, hunt, or make other use of the said -districts as they have formerly done without any other exception than -those specified in article first. - - In testimony whereof we, the undersigned, have - hereunto set our hands and seals, at the mouth - of the river St. Peters, on the 23d day of - September, 1805. - - Z. M. PIKE, 1st lieut. (L. S.) - and agent at the above conference. - - his - LE PETIT CORBEAU, × (L. S.) - mark - - his - WAY AGO ENAGEE, × (L. S.) - mark - - - -_Art. 6. Letter, Pike to Wilkinson. (Orig. No. 4, pp. 9-13.)_ - - ST. PETERS, NINE MILES BELOW THE FALLS - OF ST. ANTHONY, Sept. 23d, 1805. - -DEAR GENERAL: - -I arrived here two days since, but shall not be able to depart before -day after to-morrow. Three of my men have been up to view the falls, -but their reports are so contradictory that no opinion can be formed -from them. - -All the young warriors of the two villages of Sioux near this place, -and many chiefs, had marched against the Chipeways, to revenge a -stroke made on their people, the very day after their return from -their visit to the Illinois; ten persons were then killed on this -ground. I yesterday saw the mausoleum in which all their bodies are -deposited, and which is yet daily marked with the blood of those who -swear to revenge them. But a runner headed them, and yesterday they -all arrived--about 250 persons, in company with those who were in the -ponds gathering rice. Amidst the yelling of the mourners and the -salutes of the warriors there was a scene worthy the pen of a -Robertson [qu. Rev. Wm. Robertson, the Scottish historian, b. 1721, d. -1793?] - -To-day I held a council on the beach, and made them a speech, in which -I touched on a variety of subjects; but the principal points were, -obtaining the lands as specified in the within articles,[V-7] making -peace with the Chipeways, and granting such [Chipeway] chiefs as -might accompany me down to visit you a safe conduct through their -[Sioux] country. These ends were accomplished. You will perceive that -we have obtained about 100,000 acres for a song. You will please to -observe, General, that the 2d article, relative to consideration, is -blank. The reasons for it were as follows: I had to fee privately two -of the chiefs, and beside that to make them presents at the council of -articles which would in this country be valued at $200, and the others -about $50; part of these things were private property purchased here, -such as a few scarlet shrouds [strouds], etc. These I was not -furnished by the United States; and although the chiefs in the council -presented me with the land, yet it is possible your Excellency may -think proper to insert the amount of those articles as the -considerations to be specified in Article 2d. They have bound me up to -many assurances that the posts shall be established; also, that if the -Chipeways are obstinate, and continue to kill the Indians who bear our -flags (the Chipeways on the Upper Mississippi bearing the English -flag) and our traders, we will take them in hand and teach them to lay -down the hatchet, as we have once already done. This I was the rather -induced to say, as there were some persons present who, although -trading under your licenses, I know to be British subjects. A chief by -the name of Elan Levie [Élan Levé[V-8]], then told me to look round on -those young warriors on the beach; that not only they, but those of -six villages more, were at our command. If possible, I will endeavor -to note down their several speeches, and show them you on my return. - -I have not a doubt of making Lake Sable [Sandy lake] in pretty good -season; but they inform me the source of the river is in Lake La Sang -Sue [Leech lake], about 60 leagues further. This I must also see, and -hope the General approves of my determination. At those two lakes -there are establishments of the N. W. Company. These are both in our -country, and time and circumstances only can determine in what manner -I shall conduct myself toward them.[*] Mr. [Hugh] M'Gillis, whose -father was a refugee and had his estate confiscated by the Americans, -has charge of those factories. He, they say, is a sworn enemy of the -United States. This was told me by a man who I expect was a friend of -the N. W. Company; but it had quite a contrary effect to what he -intended it to have, as I am determined, should he attempt anything -malicious toward me--open force he dare not--to spare no pains to -punish him. In fact, the dignity and honor of our government requires -that they should be taught to gather their skins in quiet, but even -then not in a clandestine manner. Added to this, they are the very -instigators of the war between the Chipeways and Sioux, in order that -they may monopolize the trade of the Upper Mississippi. - -[*] Incorrect--he being a Scotchman, a gentleman, and a man of -honor; but this was the information I received at the St. Peters. -[Orig. Note.] - -The chiefs who were at Saint Louis this spring gave up their English -medals to Mr. Chouteau. He promised them to obtain American medals in -return, and send them up by some officer. They applied to me for them, -and said they were their commissions--their only distinguishing mark -from the other warriors. I promised them that I would write you on the -occasion, and that you would remedy the evil. The chiefs were very -loath to sign the articles relative to the land, asserting that their -word of honor for the gift was sufficient, that it was an impeachment -of their probity to require them to bind themselves further, etc. This -is a small sample of their way of thinking. - -I must mention something to your Excellency relative to the man -recommended to me by Mr. Chouteau as interpreter. At the time he -solicited this employ he was engaged to Mr. [Robert] Dickson, and on -my arrival at the Prairie [du Chien] was gone up the St. Peters. I -understand he is to be recommended for the appointment of interpreter -to the United States in this quarter. On the contrary, I beg leave to -recommend for that appointment Mr. Joseph Reinville, who served as -interpreter for the Sioux last spring at the Illinois, and who has -gratuitously and willingly, by permission of Mr. [James] Frazer, to -whom he is engaged, served as my interpreter in all my conferences -with the Sioux. He is a man respected by the Indians, and I believe an -honest one. I likewise beg leave to recommend to your attention Mr. -Frazer, one of the two gentlemen who dined with you, and was destined -for the Upper Mississippi. He waited eight or ten days at Prairie [du -Chien] for me, detained his interpreter, and thenceforward has -continued to evince a zeal to promote the success of my expedition by -every means in his power. He is a Vermonter born, and, although not -possessing the advantages of a polished education, inherits that -without which an education serves but to add to frivolity of -character--candor, bravery, and that _amor patria_ which distinguishes -the good of every nation, from Nova Zembla to the [Equatorial] line. - -Finding that the traders were playing the devil with their rum, I -yesterday in council informed the Indians that their father had -prohibited the selling of liquor to them, and that they would oblige -him and serve themselves if they would prevent their young men from -paying the credits of any trader who sold rum to them, at the same -time charging the chiefs to treat them well; as their father, although -good, would not again forgive them, but punish with severity any -injuries committed on their traders. This, I presume, General, is -agreeable to the spirit of the laws. Mr. Frazer immediately set the -example, by separating his spirits from the merchandise in his boats, -and returning it to the Prairie, although it would materially injure -him if the other traders retained and sold theirs. In fact, unless -there are some persons at our posts here, when established, who have -authority effectually to stop the evil by confiscating the liquors, -etc., it will still be continued by the weak and malevolent. - -I shall forbear giving you a description of this place until my -return, except only to observe that the position for this post is on -the point [where Fort Snelling now stands], between the two rivers, -which equally commands both; and for that at the St. Croix, on the -hill on the lower side of the entrance, on the E. bank of the -Mississippi [now Prescott, Pierce Co., Wis.]. Owing to cloudy weather, -etc., I have taken no observation here; but the head of Lake Pepin is -in 44° 58' 8" N., and we have made very little northing since. The -Mississippi is 130 yards wide, and the St. Peters 80 yards at their -confluence. - -_Sept. 24th._ This morning Little Corbeau came to see me from the -village, he having recovered an article which I suspected had been -taken by the Indians. He told me many things which the ceremony of the -council would not permit his delivering there; and added, he must tell -me that Mr. Roche, who went up the river St. Peters, had in his -presence given two kegs of rum to the Indians. The chief asked him why -he did so, as he knew it was contrary to the orders of his father, -adding that Messrs. Mareir and Tremer[V-9] had left their rum behind -them, but that he alone had rum, contrary to orders. Roche then gave -the chief 15 bottles of rum, as I suppose to bribe him to silence. I -presume he should be taught the impropriety of his conduct when he -applies for his license next year. - - - ABOVE THE FALLS OF ST. ANTHONY, Sept. 26th. - -The cloudy weather still continues, and I have not been able to take -the latitude. Mr. Frazer has been kind enough to send two of his -people across from the Sioux town on the St. Peters for my dispatches, -and the place being dangerous for them, I must haste to dispatch them. -Of course, General, the following short sketch of the falls will -merely be from _le coup d'oeuil_. The place where the river falls -over the rocks appears to be about 15 feet perpendicular, the sheet -being broken by one large island on the E. and a small one on the W., -the former commencing below the shoot and extending 500 yards above; -the river then falls through a continued bed of rocks, with a descent -of at least 50 feet perpendicular in the course of half a mile. Thence -to the St. Peters, a distance of 11 miles by water, there is almost -one continued rapid, aggravated by the interruption of 12 small -islands. The carrying-place has two hills, one of 25 feet, the other -of 12, with an elevation of 45°, and is about three-fourths of a mile -in length. Above the shoot, the river is of considerable width; but -below, at this time, I can easily cast a stone over it. The rapid or -suck continues about half a mile above the shoot, when the water -becomes calm and deep. My barges are not yet over, but my trucks are -preparing, and I have not the least doubt of succeeding. - -The general, I hope, will pardon the tautologies and egotisms of my -communications, as he well knows Indian affairs are productive of such -errors, and that in a wilderness, detached from the civilized world, -everything, even if of little import, becomes magnified in the eyes of -the beholder. When I add that my hands are blistered in working over -the rapids, I presume it will apologize for the manner and style of my -communications. - -I flatter myself with hearing from you at the Prairie, on my way down. - - I am, General, - Your obedient servant, - [Signed] Z. M. PIKE, Lt. - - GENERAL WILKINSON. - - -_Art. 7.[V-10] Instructions, Pike to Sergeant Henry Kennerman. (Orig. -No. 16, pp. 33, 34.)_ - - PINE CREEK RAPIDS, Oct. 1st, 1805. - -You are to remain here with the party under your command, subject to -the following instructions: Your guards to consist of one -non-commissioned officer and three privates, yourself mounting in -regular rotation, making one sentinel by day and by night; until your -position is inclosed by pickets, every man is to be employed on that -object; after which Sparks is to be employed in hunting; but this will -by no means excuse him from his tour of guard at night when in the -stockade, but he must be relieved during the day by another man. - -Should any Indians visit you previous to having your works complete, -divide your men between the two blockhouses, and on no conditions -suffer a savage to enter the one where the stores are, and not more -than one or two into the other; but should you be so fortunate as not -to be discovered until your works are completed, you may admit three, -without arms, and no more, to enter at once, at the same time always -treating them with as much friendship as is consistent with your own -safety. - -You are furnished with some tobacco to present them with, but on no -condition are you ever to give them one drop of liquor; inform them -that I have taken it all with me. From the arrangements I have made -with the Sioux it is presumable they will treat you with friendship; -but the Chipeways may be disposed to hostilities, and, should you be -attacked, calculate on surrendering only with your life. Instruct your -men not to fire at random, nor ever, unless the enemy is near enough -to make him a point-blank shot. This you must particularly attend to, -and punish the first man found acting in contradiction thereto. The -greatest economy must be used with the ammunition and provisions. Of -the latter I shall furnish Sparks his proportion; and at any time -should a man accompany him for a day's hunt, furnish him with four or -five balls and extra powder, and on his return take what is left away -from him. The provisions must be issued agreeably to the following -proportion: For four days N. 80 lbs. of fresh venison, elk, or -buffalo, or 60 lbs. fresh bear meat, with one quart of salt for that -period. The remainder of what is killed keep frozen in the open air as -long as possible, or salt and smoke it, so as to lay up meat for my -party and us all to descend the river with. If you are obliged, -through the failure of your hunter, to issue out of our reserved -provisions, you will deliver, for four days, 18 lbs. of pork or bacon, -and 18 lbs. of flour only. This will be sufficient, and must in no -instance be exceeded. No whisky will be issued after the present -barrel is exhausted, at half a gill per man per day. - -Our boats are turned up near your gate. You will make a barrel of -pitch, and give them a complete repairing to be ready for us to -descend in. - -I have delivered to you my journals and observations to this place, -with a letter accompanying them to his Excellency, General James -Wilkinson, which, should I not return by the time hereafter specified, -you will convey to him and deliver personally, requesting his -permission to deliver the others committed to your charge. - -You will observe the strictest discipline and justice in your command. -I expect the men will conduct themselves in such a manner that there -will be no complaints made on my return, and that they will be ready -to account to a higher tribunal. The date of my return is uncertain; -but let no information or reports, except from under my own hand, -induce you to quit this place until one month after the ice has broken -up at the head of the river; when, if I am not arrived, it will be -reasonable to suppose that some disastrous events detain us, and you -may repair to St. Louis. You are taught to discriminate between my -baggage and United States' property. The latter deliver to the -assistant military agent at St. Louis, taking his receipts for the -same; the former, if in your power, to Mrs. Pike. - -Your party is regularly supplied with provisions, to include the 8th -of December only, from which time you are entitled to draw on the -United States. - - [Signed] Z. M. PIKE, Lt. - - -_Art. 8. Letter, Pike to Hugh M'Gillis. (Orig. No. 5, pp. 14-16.)_ - - N. W. ESTABLISHMENT ON LEECH LAKE, - Feb. [6th], 1805. - - SIR: - -As [you are] a proprietor of the N. W. Company and director of the -Zond [Fond] du Lac department, I conceive it my duty as an officer of -the United States, in whose territory you are, to address you solely -on the subject of the many houses under your instructions. As a member -of the greatest commercial nation in the world, and of a company long -renowned for their extent of connections and greatness of views, you -cannot be ignorant of the rigor of the laws of the duties on imports -of a foreign power. - -Mr. Jay's treaty, it is true, gave the right of trade with the savages -to British subjects in the United States territories, but by no means -exempted them from paying the duties, obtaining licenses, and -subscribing unto all the rules and restrictions of our laws. I find -your establishments at every suitable place along the whole extent of -the south side of Lake Superior to its head, thence to the source of -the Mississippi, and down Red River, and even extending to the center -of our newly acquired territory of Louisiana, in which it will -probably yet become a question between the two governments, whether -our treaties will authorize British subjects to enter into the Indian -trade on the same footing as in the other parts of our frontiers, -this not having been an integral part of the United States at the time -of said treaty. Our traders to the south, on the Lower Mississippi, -complain to our government, with justice, that the members of the N. -W. Company encircle them on the frontiers of our N. W. territory, and -trade with the savages upon superior terms to what they can afford, -who pay the duties on their goods imported from Europe, and subscribe -to the regulations prescribed by law. - -These representations have at length attracted the attention of our -government to the object in question, and, with an intention to do -themselves as well as citizens justice, they last year took some steps -to ascertain the facts and make provision against the growing evil. -With this, and also with some geographical and local objects in view, -was I dispatched with discretionary orders, with a party of troops, to -the source of the Mississippi. I have found, Sir, your commerce and -establishments extending beyond our most exaggerated ideas; and in -addition to the injury done our revenue by evasion of the duties, -other acts done which are more particularly injurious to the honor and -dignity of our government. The transactions alluded to are the -presenting medals of his Britannic Majesty, and flags of the said -government, to the chiefs and warriors resident in the territory of -the United States. As political subjects are strictly prohibited to -our traders, what would be the ideas of the executive to see -foreigners making chiefs, and distributing flags, the standard of an -European power? The savages being accustomed to look on that standard, -which was the only prevailing one for years, as that which alone has -authority in the country, it would not be in the least astonishing to -see them revolt from the United States' limited subjection which is -claimed over them by the American government, and thereby be the cause -of their receiving a chastisement which, although necessary, yet would -be unfortunate, as they would have been led astray by the policy of -the traders of your country. - -I must likewise observe, Sir, that your establishments, if properly -known, would be looked on with an eye of dissatisfaction by our -government, for another reason, viz., there being so many furnished -posts, in case of a rupture between the two powers the English -government would not fail to make use of those as places of deposit of -arms, ammunition, etc., to be distributed to the savages who joined -their arms, to the great annoyance of our territory, and the loss of -the lives of many of our citizens. Your flags, Sir, when hoisted in -inclosed works, are in direct contradiction of the law of nations, and -their practice in like cases, which only admits of foreign flags being -expanded on board of vessels, and at the residences of ambassadors or -consuls. I am not ignorant of the necessity of your being in such a -position as to protect yourself from the sallies of drunken savages, -or the more deliberate plans of intending plunderers; and under those -considerations have I considered your stockades. - -You, and the company of which you are a member, must be conscious from -the foregoing statement that strict justice would demand, and I assure -you that the law directs, under similar circumstances, a total -confiscation of your property, personal imprisonment, and fines. But -having discretionary instructions and no reason to think the above -conduct to be dictated through ill-will or disrespect to our -government, and conceiving it in some degree departing from the -character of an officer to embrace the first opportunity of executing -those laws, I am willing to sacrifice my prospect of private -advantage, conscious that the government looks not to its interest, -but to its dignity in the transaction. I have therefore to request of -you assurances on the following heads which, setting aside the -chicanery of law, as a gentleman you will strictly adhere to: - -1st. That you will make representations to your agents, at your -headquarters on Lake Superior, of the quantity of goods wanted the -ensuing spring for your establishments in the territory of the United -States, in time sufficient (or as early as possible) for them to -enter them at the C. H. of Michilimackinac, and obtain a clearance and -license to trade in due form. - -2d. That you will give immediate instructions to all the posts in said -territory under your direction, at no time and under no pretense -whatever to hoist, or suffer to be hoisted, the English flag. If you -conceive a flag necessary, you may make use of that of the United -States, which is the only one which can be admitted. - -3d. That you will on no further occasion present a flag or medal to an -Indian, or hold councils with any of them on political subjects, or -others foreign from that of trade; but that, on being applied to on -those heads, you will refer them to the American agents, informing -them that these are the only persons authorized to hold councils of a -political nature with them. - -There are many other subjects, such as the distribution of liquor, -etc., which would be too lengthy to be treated of in detail. But the -company will do well to furnish themselves with our laws regulating -commerce with the savages, and regulate themselves in our territories -accordingly. - -I embrace this opportunity to acknowledge myself and command under -singular obligations to yourself and agents for the assistance which -you have rendered us, and the polite treatment with which we have been -honored. With sentiments of high respect for the establishment and -yourself, - - I am, Sir, - Your obedient servant, - Z. M. PIKE. - - HUGH M'GILLIS, Esq., - Proprietor and Agent of the N. W. Company - established at Zond [Fond] Du Lac. - - -_Art. 9. Letter, Hugh M'Gillis to Pike. (Orig. No. 6, pp. 17-19.)_ - - LEECH LAKE, Feb. 15th, 1806. - - SIR: - -Your address presented on the 6th inst. has attracted my most serious -consideration to the several objects of duties on importations; of -presents made to, and our consultations with, Indians; of inclosing -our stores and dwelling-houses; and finally, of the custom obtaining -to hoist the British flag in the territory belonging to the United -States of America. I shall at as early a period as possible present -the agents of the N. W. Company with your representations regarding -the paying duties on the importation of goods to be sent to our -establishments within the bounds of the territory of the United -States, as also their being entered at the custom house of -Michilimackinac; but I beg to be allowed to present for consideration, -that the major part of the goods necessary to be sent to the said -establishments for the trade of the ensuing year, are now actually in -our stores at Kamanitiguia, our headquarters on Lake Superior, and -that it would cause us vast expense and trouble to be obliged to -convey those goods back to Michilimackinac to be entered at the -custom-house office. We therefore pray that the word of gentlemen with -regard to the quantity and quality of the said goods, to be sent to -said establishment, may be considered as equivalent to the certainty -of a custom-house register. Our intention has never been to injure -your traders, paying the duties established by law. We hope those -representations to your government respecting our concerns with the -Indians may have been dictated with truth, and not exaggerated by envy -to prejudice our interests and to throw a stain on our character which -may require time to efface from the minds of a people to whom we must -ever consider ourselves indebted for that lenity of procedure of which -the present is so notable a testimony. The inclosures to protect our -stores and dwelling-houses from the insults and barbarity of savage -rudeness, have been erected for the security of my property and person -in a country, till now, exposed to the wild will of the frantic -Indians. We never formed the smallest idea that the said inclosures -might ever be useful in the juncture of a rupture between the two -powers, nor do we now conceive that such poor shifts will ever be -employed by the British government in a country overshadowed with wood -so adequate to every purpose. Forts might in a short period of time be -built far superior to any stockades we may have occasion to erect. - -We were not conscious, Sir, of the error I acknowledge we have been -guilty of committing, by exhibiting to view on your territory any -standard of Great Britain. I will pledge myself to your government, -that I will use my utmost endeavors, as soon as possible, to prevent -the future display of the British flag, or the presenting of medals, -or the exhibiting to public view any other mark of European power, -throughout the extent of territory known to belong to the dominion of -the United States. The custom has long been established and we -innocently and inoffensively, as we imagined, have conformed to it -till the present day. - -Be persuaded that on no consideration shall any Indian be entertained -on political subjects, or on any affairs foreign to our trade; and -that reference shall be made to the American agents, should any -application be made worthy such reference. Be also assured that we, as -a commercial company, must find it ever our interests to interfere as -little as possible with affairs of government in the course of trade, -ignorant as we are in this rude and distant country of the political -views of nations. - -We are convinced that the inestimable advantages arising from the -endeavors of your government to establish a more peaceful course of -trade in this part of the territory belonging to the United States are -not acquired through the mere liberality of a nation, and we are ready -to contribute to the expense necessarily attending them. We are not -averse to paying the common duties established by law, and will ever -be ready to conform ourselves to all rules and regulations of trade -that may be established according to common justice. - -I beg to be allowed to say that we have reason to hope that every -measure will be adopted to secure and facilitate the trade with the -Indians; and these hopes seem to be confirmed beyond the smallest idea -of doubt, when we see a man sent among us who, instead of private -considerations to pecuniary views, prefers the honor, dignity, and -lenity of his government, and whose transactions are in every respect -so conformable to equity. When we behold an armed force ready to -protect or chastise as necessity or policy may direct, we know not how -to express our gratitude to that people whose only view seems to be to -promote the happiness of all, the savages that rove over the wild -confines of their domains not excepted. - -It is to you, Sir, we feel ourselves most greatly indebted, whose -claim to honor, esteem, and respect will ever be held in high -estimation by myself and associates. The danger and hardships, by your -fortitude vanquished and by your perseverance overcome, are signal, -and will ever be preserved in the annals of the N. W. Company. Were it -solely from consideration of those who have exposed their lives in a -long and perilous march through a country where they had every -distress to suffer, and many dangers to expect,--and this with a view -to establish peace in a savage country,--we should think ourselves -under the most strict obligation to assist them. But we know we are in -a country where hospitality and gratitude are to be considered above -every other virtue, and therefore have offered for their relief what -our poor means will allow: and, Sir, permit me to embrace this -opportunity to testify that I feel myself highly honored by your -acceptance of such accommodations as my humble roof could afford. - -With great consideration and high respect for the government of the -United States, allow me to express my esteem and regard for yourself. - - I am, Sir, - Your obedient humble servant, - [Signed] H. M'GILLIS, - Of N. W. Company - - LIEUT. PIKE, - 1st. Regt. United States Infantry. - - -_Art. 10. Speech, Pike to the Sauteaux, in a Council at Leech Lake, -Feb. 16th, 1806. (Orig. No. 7, pp. 19-22.)_ - -BROTHERS: A few months since the Spaniards shut up the mouth of the -Mississippi, and prevented the Americans from floating down to the -sea. This your father, the President of the United States, would not -admit of. He therefore took such measures as to open the river, remove -the Spaniards from both sides of the Mississippi to a great distance -on the other side of the Missouri, and open the road from the ocean of -the east to that of the west. The Americans being then at peace with -all the world, your great father, the President of the United States, -began to look round on his red children, in order to see what he could -do to render them happy and sensible of his protection. For that -purpose he sent two of his Captains, Lewis and Clark, up the Missouri, -to pass on to the west sea, in order to see all his new children, to -go round the world that way, and return by water. They stayed the -first winter at the Mandane's[V-11] village, where you might have heard -of them. This year your great father directed his great war-chief -(General Wilkinson) at St. Louis, to send a number of his young -warriors up the Missouri, Illinois, Osage River, and other courses, to -learn the situation of his red children, to encourage the good, punish -the bad, and make peace between them all by persuading them to lay by -the hatchet and follow the young warriors to St. Louis, where the -great war-chief will open their ears that they may hear the truth, and -their eyes, to see what is right. - -BROTHERS: I was chosen to ascend the Mississippi, to bear to his red -children the words of their father; and the Great Spirit has opened -the eyes and ears of all the nations that I have passed to listen to -my words. The Sauks and Reynards are planting corn and raising cattle. -The Winnebagos continue peaceable, as usual, and even the Sioux have -laid by the hatchet at my request. Yes, my brothers, the Sioux, who -have so long and so obstinately waged war against the Chipeways, have -agreed to lay by the hatchet, smoke the calumet, and become again your -brothers, as they were wont to be.[V-12] - -BROTHERS: You behold the pipe of Wabasha as a proof of what I say. -Little Corbeau, Tills [Fils] De Pinchow, and L'Aile Rouge had marched -250 warriors to revenge the blood of their women and children, slain -last year at the St. Peters. I sent a runner after them, stopped their -march, and met them in council at the mouth of the St. Peters, where -they promised to remain peaceable until my return; and if the -Ouchipawah [Chippewa] chiefs accompanied me, to receive them as -brothers and accompany us to St. Louis, there to bury the hatchet and -smoke the pipe in the presence of our great war-chief; and to request -him to punish those who first broke the peace. - -BROTHERS: I sent flags and a message up the St. Peters to the bands of -Sioux on that river, requesting them to remain quiet, and not to go to -war. The People of the Leaves [Gens des Feuilles] received my message -and sent me word that they would obey; but the Yanctongs and -Sussitongs had left the St. Peters previous to my message arriving, -and did not receive it. When I left my fort they had appointed a day -for 50 of their chiefs and warriors to come and see me, but I could -not wait for them; so that, as to their dispositions for peace or war, -I cannot answer positively. - -BROTHERS: I have therefore come to fetch some of your approved chiefs -with me to St. Louis. - -BROTHERS: In speaking to you I speak to brave warriors. It is -therefore not my intention to deceive you. Possibly we may meet with -some bad people who may wish to do us ill; but if so, we will die -together, certain that our fathers, the Americans, will settle with -them for our blood. - -BROTHERS: I find you have received from your traders English medals -and flags. These you must deliver up, and your chiefs who go with me -shall receive others from the American government, in their room. - -BROTHERS: Traders have no authority to make chiefs; and in doing this -they have done what is not right. It is only great chiefs, appointed -by your fathers, who have that authority. But at the same time you are -under considerable obligations to your traders, who come over large -waters, high mountains, and up swift falls, to supply you with -clothing for your women and children, and ammunition for your hunters, -to feed you, and keep you from perishing with cold. - -BROTHERS: Your chiefs should see your traders done justice, oblige -your young men to pay their credits, and protect them from insults; -and your traders, on their part, must not cheat the Indians, but give -them the value of their skins. - -BROTHERS: Your father is going to appoint chiefs of his own to reside -among you, to see justice done to his white and red children, who will -punish those who deserve punishment, without reference to the color of -their skin. - -BROTHERS: I understand that one of your young men killed an American -at Red Lake last year, but the murderer is far off. Let him keep -so--send him where we never may hear of him more; for were he here I -would be obliged to demand him of you, and make my young men shoot -him. My hands on this journey are yet clear of blood--may the Great -Spirit keep them so! - -BROTHERS: We expect, in the summer, soldiers to come to the St. -Peters. Your chiefs who go with me may either come up with them, or -some traders who return sooner. They may make their selection. - -BROTHERS: Your father finds that the rum with which you are supplied -by the traders is the occasion of quarrels, murders, and bloodshed; -and that, instead of buying clothing for your women and children, you -spend your skins in liquor, etc. He has determined to direct his young -warriors and chiefs to prohibit it, and keep it from among you. But I -have found the traders here with a great deal of rum on hand. I have -therefore given them permission to sell what they have, that you may -forget it by degrees, against next year, when none will be suffered to -come in the country. - - -_Art. 11. Speeches, Chippewa Chiefs[V-13] to Pike, at Leech Lake, Feb. -16th, 1806. (Orig. No. 8, pp. 22, 23.)_ - - -_1st. Sucre of Red lake_ (_Wiscoup_). - -MY FATHER: I have heard and understood the words of our great father. -It overjoys me to see you make peace among us. I should have -accompanied you had my family been present, and would have gone to -see my father, the great war-chief. - -MY FATHER: This medal I hold in my hands I received from the English -chiefs. I willingly deliver it up to you. Wabasha's calumet, with -which I am presented, I receive with all my heart. Be assured that I -will use my best endeavors to keep my young men quiet. There is my -calumet. I send it to my father the great war-chief. What does it -signify that I should go to see him? Will not my pipe answer the same -purpose? - -MY FATHER: You will meet with the Sioux on your return. You will make -them smoke my pipe, and tell them that I have let fall my hatchet. - -MY FATHER: Tell the Sioux on the upper part of the river St. Peters to -mark trees with the figure of a calumet, that we of Red Lake who may -go that way, should we see them, may make peace with them, being -assured of their pacific disposition when we see the calumet marked on -the trees. - - -_2d. The Chief de la Terre of Leech lake_ (_Obigouitte_). - -MY FATHER: I am glad to hear that we and the Sioux are now brothers, -peace being made between us. If I have received a medal from the -English traders, it was not as a mark of rank or distinction, as I -considered it, but merely because I made good hunts and paid my debts. -Had Sucre been able to go and see our father, the great war-chief, I -should have accompanied him; but I am determined to go to -Michilimackinac next spring to see my brothers the Americans. - - -_3d. Geuelle Platte of Leech lake_ (_Eskibugeckoge_). - -MY FATHER: My heart beat high with joy when I heard that you had -arrived, and that all the nations through which you passed had -received and made peace among them. - -MY FATHER: You ask me to accompany you to meet our father, the great -war-chief. This I would willingly do, but certain considerations -prevent me. I have sent my calumet to all the Sauteaux who hunt round -about, to assemble to form a war-party; should I be absent, they, when -assembled, might strike those with whom we have made peace, and thus -kill our brothers. I must therefore remain here to prevent them from -assembling, as I fear that there are many who have begun already to -prepare to meet me. I present you with the medal of my uncle here -present. He received it from the English chiefs as a recompense for -his good hunts. As for me, I have no medal here; it is at my tent, and -I will cheerfully deliver it up. That medal was given me by the -English traders, in consideration of something that I had done; and I -can say that three-fourths of those here present belong to me. - -MY FATHER: I promise you, and you may confide in my word, that I will -preserve peace; that I bury my hatchet; and that even should the Sioux -come and strike me, for the first time I would not take up my hatchet; -but should they come and strike me a second time, I would dig up my -hatchet and revenge myself. - - -_Art. 12. Extract of a letter, Pike to Robert Dickson, Lower Red Cedar -Lake, Feb. 26th, 1806. (Orig. No. 9, pp. 23, 24.)_ - -Mr. Grant was prepared to go on a trading voyage among the Fols -Avoins; but that was what I could not by any means admit of, and I -hope that, on a moment's reflection, you will admit the justice of my -refusal. For what could be a greater piece of injustice than for me to -permit you to send goods, illegally brought into the country, down -into the same quarter, to trade for the credits of men who have paid -their duties, regularly taken out licenses, and in other respects -acted conformably to law? They might exclaim with justice, "What! Lt. -Pike, not content with suffering the laws to slumber when it was his -duty to have executed them, has now suffered the N. W. Company's -agents to come even here to violate them, and injure the citizens of -the United States--certainly he must be corrupted to admit this." - -This, Sir, would be the natural conclusion of all persons. - - -_Art. 13. Letter, Pike to La Jeunesse. (Orig. No. 10, p. 24.)_ - - GRAND ISLE, UPPER MISSISSIPPI, Apr. 9th, 1806. - -SIR: - -Being informed that you have arrived here with an intention of selling -spirituous liquors to the savages of this quarter, together with other -merchandise under your charge, I beg leave to inform you that the sale -of spirituous liquors on the Indian territories, to any savages -whatsoever, is contrary to a law of the United States for regulating -trade with the savages and preserving peace on the frontiers; and that -notwithstanding the custom has hitherto obtained on the Upper -Mississippi, no person whatsoever has authority therefor. As the -practice may have a tendency to occasion broils and dissensions among -the savages, thereby occasioning bloodshed and an infraction of the -good understanding which now, through my endeavors, so happily exists, -I have, at your particular request, addressed you this note in -writing, informing you that in case of an infraction I shall conceive -it my duty, as an officer of the United States, to prosecute according -to the pains and penalties of the law. - - I am, Sir, - With all due consideration, - Your obedient servant, - [Signed] Z. M. PIKE, Lt. - - MR. LA JENNESSE. - - -_Art. 14. Letter, Pike to Wilkinson. (Orig. No. 11, pp. 25, 26.)_ - - PRAIRIE DE CHIEN, Apr. 18, 1806. - -DEAR GENERAL: - -I arrived here within the hour, and as Mr. Jearreau, of Cahokia, -embarks for St. Louis early to-morrow morning, I embrace this -opportunity to give a slight sketch of the events of my expedition. -Being obliged to steal the hours from my repose, I hope the General -will pardon the conciseness of my epistle. - -I pushed forward last October with all eagerness, in hopes to make -Lake De Sable, and return to St. Louis in the autumn. The weather was -mild and promising until the middle of the month, when a sudden change -took place and the ice immediately commenced running. I was then -conscious of my inability to return, as the falls and other obstacles -would retain me until the river would close. I then conceived it best -to station part of my men, and push my discovery with the remainder on -foot. I marched with 11 soldiers and my interpreter, 700 miles, to the -source of the Mississippi, through (I may without vanity say) as many -hardships as almost any party of Americans ever experienced, by cold -and hunger. I was on the communication of Red river and the -Mississippi, the former being a water of Hudson's bay.[V-14] The -British flag, which was expanded on some very respectable positions, -has given place to that of the United States wherever we passed; -likewise, we have the faith and honor of the N. W. Company for about -$13,000 duties this year; and by the voyage peace is established -between the Sioux and Sauteurs. These objects I have been happy enough -to accomplish without the loss of one man, although once fired on. I -expect hourly the Sussitongs, Yanctongs, Wachpecoutes, and three -other bands of Sioux; some are from the head of the St. Peters, and -some from the plains west of that river. From here I bring with me a -few of the principal men only, agreeably to your orders; also, some -chiefs of the Fols Avoins or Menomones, and Winebagos, the latter of -whom have murdered three men since my passing here last autumn. The -murderers I shall demand, and am in expectation of obtaining two, for -whom I now have irons making, and expect to have them with me on my -arrival. Indeed, Sir, the insolence of the savages in this quarter is -unbounded; and unless an immediate example is made, we shall certainly -be obliged to enter into a general war with them. - -My party has been some small check to them this winter, as I was -determined to preserve the dignity of our flag, or die in the attempt. - -I presume, General, that my voyage will be productive of much new, -useful, and interesting information for our government, although -detailed in the unpolished diction of a soldier of fortune. - -The river broke up at my stockade, 600 miles above here, on the 7th -inst., and Lake Pepin was passable for boats only on the 14th. Thus -you may perceive, Sir, I have not been slow in my descent, leaving all -the traders behind me. From the time it will take to make my -arrangements, and the state of the water, I calculate on arriving at -the cantonment [Belle Fontaine] on the 4th of May; and hope my General -will be assured that nothing but the most insurmountable obstacles -shall detain me one moment. - -N. B. I beg leave to caution the General against attending to the -reports of any individuals relating to this country, as the most -unbounded prejudices and party rancor pervade almost generally. - - I am, dear Sir, - With great consideration, - Your obedient servant, - [Signed] Z. M. PIKE, Lt. - - -_Art. 15.[V-15] Speech, Pike to the Puants at Prairie Du Chien, Apr. -20th, 1806. (Part of Orig. No. 12, pp. 26, 27.)_ - -BROTHERS: When I passed here last autumn I requested to see you on my -return. I am pleased to see you have listened to my words. It pleased -the Great Spirit to open the ears of all the nations through which I -passed, to hear and attend to the words of their father. Peace has -been established between two of the most powerful nations in this -quarter. - -Notwithstanding all this, some of your nation have been bold enough to -kill some of the white people. Not content with firing on the canoes -descending the Ouiscousing last autumn, they have killed a man on Rock -river, when sitting peaceably in his tent. They have also recently -murdered a young man near this place, without any provocation -whatever. As an officer of the United States, it is my duty to demand -the murderers; and I do now demand them. - -BROTHERS: In this action I am not influenced or urged by any -individual of this place, or the people generally; no more than as it -is my duty to give all our citizens all the protection in my power. I -will not deceive you. If the prisoners are delivered to me, I shall -put them in irons, under my guards, and in all instances treat them as -men guilty of a capital crime; on their arrival below, they will be -tried for their lives; and if it be proved they have killed these -people without provocation, in all probability they will be put to -death. If, on the contrary, it is proved that the whites were the -aggressors, and it was only self-defence, it will be deemed -justifiable, and they will be sent back to their nation. - -It becomes you to consider well whether in case of a refusal you are -sufficiently powerful to protect these men against the power of the -United States, which have always, since the treaty of 1795, treated -all the savages as their children; but if they are obliged to march -troops to punish the many murders committed on their citizens, then -the innocent will suffer with the guilty. - -My demand will be reported in candor and truth below; when the general -will take such steps as he may deem proper. But I hope, for the sake -of your innocent women and children, you will do us and yourselves -justice. I was directed to invite a few chiefs down with me to St. -Louis. Many of different bands are about to descend with me. I now -give an invitation to two or three of your principal men to descend -with me. Whatever are your determinations, I pledge the faith of a -soldier for a safe conduct back to your nation. At present, I am not -instructed to act by force to procure those men, therefore you will -consider yourselves as acting without restraint, and under free -deliberations. - -They replied that they thanked me for the generous and candid manner -in which I had explained myself, and that they would give me an answer -to-morrow. - - -_Art. 16. Further Conferences with Indians at Prairie du Chien, Apr. -21st, 1806. (Part of Orig. No. 12, pp. 27-29.)_ - -The Puants met me in council, agreeably to promise. Karamone, their -chief, addressed me, and said they had come to reply to my demand of -yesterday. He requested that I, with the traders, would listen. A -soldier called Little Thunder then arose and said: "The chiefs were -for giving up the murderer present; but it was the opinion of the -soldiers that they should themselves take him with the others to their -father. But if I preferred their taking one down now, they would do -it; if, on the contrary, I expected all three, they would immediately -depart in pursuit of the others, and bring them all together to their -father. That if he did not bring them he would deliver himself up to -the Americans." I replied: "He must not attempt to deceive. That I had -before told him that I was not authorized to seize their men by force -of arms, but that I wished to know explicitly the time when we might -expect them at St. Louis, in order that our general should know what -steps to take in case they did not arrive. That the consequence of a -non-compliance would be serious to themselves and their children. Also -that they had recently hoisted a British flag near this place which, -had I been here, I should have prevented. I advised them to bring -their British flags and medals down to St. Louis, to deliver them up, -and receive others in exchange." Their reply was: "In ten days to the -Prairie, and thence to St. Louis in ten days more." - -Held a council with the Sioux, in which the chiefs of the Yanctongs, -Sussitongs, Sioux of the head of the De Moyen, and part of the Gens Du -Lac were present. Wabasha first spoke, in answer to my speech, wherein -I had recapitulated the conduct of the Sauteurs, their desire and -willingness for peace, their arrangements for next summer, the pipes -they had sent, etc. Also, the wish of the general for some of the -chiefs to descend below. Recommended the situation and good intentions -of the young chiefs at the mouth of the St. Peters, to the others; and -that they should give them assistance to keep the bad men in awe. - -They all acquiesced in the peace with the Sauteurs, but said generally -they doubted their bad faith, as they had experienced it many a time. -Nez Corbeau said he had been accused of being hired to kill Mr. Dixon -[Dickson], but he here solemnly denied ever having been instigated to -any such action. - -Tonnere Rouge then arose and said: Jealousy was in a great measure the -principal cause of his descending. That if any trader ever had cause -to complain of him, now let him do it publicly. That last year an -officer went up the Missouri, gave flags and medals, made chiefs, and -played the devil and all. That this year liquor was restricted -[forbidden] to the Indians on the Louisiana side, and permitted on -this. He wished to know the reason of those arrangements. - -I replied that the officer who ascended the Missouri was authorized by -their father; and that to make chiefs of them, etc., was what I now -invited them down for. As to liquor, it was too long an explanation to -give them here, but it would be explained to them below; and that in a -very short time liquor would be restricted on both sides of the river. - -The Puants in the evening came to the house, and Macraragah, alias -Merchant, spoke: That last spring he had embarked to go down to St. -Louis; but at De Buques [Dubuque's] the Reynards gave back. That when -he saw me last autumn he gave me his hand without shame; but since it -had pleased the father of life to cover them with shame, they now felt -themselves miserable. They implored me to present their flags and -medals to the general, as a proof of their good intentions; and when I -arrived at St. Louis, to assure the general they were not far behind. -The chiefs and the soldiers would follow with the murderers; but -begged I would make their road clear, etc. Delivered his pipe and -flag. - -Karamone then spoke, with apparent difficulty; assured me of the -shame, disgrace, and distress of their nation, and that he would -fulfill what the others had said; said that he sent by me the medal of -his father, which he considered himself no longer worthy to -wear--putting it around my neck, trembling--and begged me to intercede -with the general in their favor, etc. - -I assured him that the American was a generous nation, not confounding -the innocent with the guilty; that when they had delivered up the -three or four dogs who had covered them with blood, we would again -look on them as our children; advised them to take courage that, if -they did well, they should be treated well; said that I would tell -the general everything relative to the affair; also, their repentance, -and determination to deliver themselves and the murderers, and that I -would explain about their flags and medals. - - -_Art. 17. Letter, Pike to Campbell and Fisher. (Orig. No. 13, pp. -29, 30.)_ - -(_Notice to Messrs. Campbell and Fisher, for taking depositions -against the murderers of the Puant nation._) - - PRAIRIE DES CHIENS, Apr. 20th, 1806. - -GENTLEMEN: - -Having demanded of the Puants the authors of the late atrocious -murders, and understanding that it is their intention to deliver them -to me, I have to request of you, as magistrates of this territory, -that you will have all the depositions of those facts taken which it -is in your power to procure; and if at any future period, previous to -the final decisions of their fate, further proofs can be obtained, -that you will have them properly authenticated and forwarded to his -Excellency, General Wilkinson. - - I am, Gentlemen, - With respect, - Your obedient servant, - [Signed] Z. M. PIKE, Lt. - - -_Art. 18. Letter, Pike to Wilkinson. (Orig. No. 14, pp. 30, 31.)_ - - FORT ST. LOUIS, May 26th, 1806. - -DEAR SIR: - -I have hitherto detained the medals and flags, intending to present -them to you at the final conclusion of my vouchers on the subject of -my correspondence with the savages. But in order that the general -might know of whom I had obtained medals and flags, I gave him a -memorandum when I handed in my vouchers on the subject of the N. W. -Company. Now I have thought proper to send them by the bearer, marked -with the names of the chiefs from whom I obtained them. - -I also send you a pipe and beaver robe of Tonnere Rouge, as they are -the handsomest of any which I received on the whole route. I have -several other pipes, two sacks, and one robe; but as they bore no -particular message, I conceived the general would look on it as a -matter of no consequence; indeed, none except the Sauteurs' [presents] -were accompanied by a talk, but just served as an emblem of the good -will of the moment. I likewise send the skins of the lynx and brelaw -[badger], as the general may have an opportunity to forward them. - -Some gentlemen have promised me a mate for my dog; if I obtain him, -the pair, or the single one with the sleigh, is at the general's -service, to be transmitted to the States as we determined on doing. I -mentioned in my memorandums the engagements I was under relative to -the flags or medals, and should any early communications be made to -that country, I hope the subject may not be forgotten. I have labeled -each article with the name of those from whom I obtained them; also -the names of the different animals. - - I am, sir, - With esteem and high consideration, - Your obedient servant, - [Signed] Z. M. PIKE, Lt. - - GENERAL JAMES WILKINSON. - - * * * * * - -My faith was pledged to the savage chiefs for the replacing of the -medals and flags of the British government which they surrendered me, -by others of the same magnitude of the United States; but owing to the -change of agents, and a variety of circumstances, it was never -fulfilled. This has left a number of the Sioux and Sauteur chiefs -without their distinguishing marks of dignity, and has induced them to -look on my conduct toward them as a premeditated fraud. This would -render my life in danger should I ever return amongst them, and the -situation of any other officer who should presume to make a similar -demand extremely delicate; besides, it has compromitted with those -savage warriors the _faith_ of our government, which, to enable any -government ever to do good, should be held inviolate.[V-16] - - -_Art. 19. Letter,[V-17] Pike to Wilkinson. (Orig. No. 15, pp. -31-33.)_ - - BELLEFONTAINE, July 2d, 1806. - -DEAR SIR: - -I have at length finished all my reports, observations, and journals, -which arose from my late voyage to the source of the Mississippi, and -hope they may prove interesting, from the information on different -subjects which they contain. - -I perceive that I differ materially from Captain Lewis[V-18] in my -account of the numbers, manners, and morals of the Sioux. But our -reception by that nation at the first interview being so different, it -no doubt left an impression on our minds, which may have, unknown to -ourselves, given a cast to our observations. I will not only vouch for -the authenticity of my account as to numbers, arms, etc., from my own -notes, but from having had them revised and corrected by a -gentleman[V-19] of liberal education, who has resided 18 years in that -nation, speaks their language, and for some years past has been -collecting materials for their natural and philosophical history. - -I have not attempted to give an account of nations of Indians whom I -did not visit, except the Assinniboins, whom, from their intimate -connection with the Sioux, in a lineal point of view, it would have -been improper to leave out of the catalogue. - -The correctness of the geographical parts of the voyage I will vouch -for, as I spared neither time, fatigue, nor danger, to see for myself -every part connected with my immediate route. - -As the general already knows, at the time I left St. Louis there were -no instruments proper for celestial observations, excepting those -which he furnished me, which were inadequate to taking the longitude; -neither had I the proper tables or authors to accomplish that object, -though it can no doubt be ascertained by various charts at different -points of my route. Nor had I proper time-pieces or instruments for -meteorological observations. Those made were from an imperfect -instrument which I purchased in the town of St. Louis. - -I do not possess the qualifications of the naturalist, and even had -they been mine, it would have been impossible to gratify them to any -great extent, as we passed with rapidity over the country we surveyed, -which was covered with snow six months out of the nine I was absent. -And indeed, my thoughts were too much engrossed in making provision -for the exigencies of the morrow to attempt a science which requires -time, and a placidity of mind which seldom fell to my lot. - -The journal in itself will have little to strike the imagination, -being but a dull detail of our daily march, and containing many notes -which should have come into the geographical part; others of -observations on the savage character, and many that were never -intended to be included in my official report. - -The daily occurrences written at night, frequently by firelight, when -extremely fatigued, and the cold so severe as to freeze the ink in my -pen, of course have little claim to elegance of expression or style; -but they have truth to recommend them, which, if always attended to, -would strip the pages of many of our journalists of their most -interesting occurrences. - -The general will please to recollect also, that I had scarcely -returned to St. Louis before the [Arkansaw] voyage now in -contemplation was proposed to me; and that, after some consideration -my duty, and inclination in some respects, induced me to undertake it. -The preparations for my new voyage prevented the possibility of my -paying that attention to the correction of my errors that I should -otherwise have done. This, with the foregoing reasons, will, I hope, -be deemed a sufficient apology for the numerous errors, tautologies, -and egotisms which will appear. - - I am, dear General, - With great respect, - Your obedient servant, - [Signed] Z. M. PIKE, - Lt. 1st Regt. Infty. - - GENERAL JAMES WILKINSON. - -FOOTNOTES: - -[V-1] Under this head I bring all the matter which formed in the orig. -ed. the first 16 pieces, Nos. 1-16, pp. 1-34 of the Appendix to Pt. 1. -These fall easily together, as they consist entirely of letters Pike -wrote or received during his Mississippi Expedition--even the reports -of his Indian councils being actually a part of his correspondence -with General Wilkinson. I am also able to follow the original sequence -of the pieces, with the single exception of orig. No. 16 (instructions -to Kennerman), which Pike put last and I bring into chronological -order of dates. The difference of my Arts. 1-18 from Pike's Nos. 1-16 -results from my Art. 3, which had no number in the orig. ed. (it being -merely an inclosure in Pike's No. 2), and my Art. 5, the Sioux treaty, -which Pike did not separate by any sort of mark from his No. 3, though -it is by far the most important piece of this whole lot. The changes I -make affect the numeration after No. 2, but not the sequence in any -case except that of my Art. 7 (Pike's No. 16). I indicate the original -numeration and pagination. - -[V-2] There were three persons of this name down to 1805. Louis Tesson -Honoré 1st, tailor, b. Canada, 1734, d. St. Louis, 1807, aged 73; -married Magdalena Peterson, b. 1739, d. St. Louis, 1812. The family -came to St. Louis from Kaskaskia. Among 8 children was--Louis Tesson -Honoré 2d, eldest son; he married (1) Marie Duchouquette, (2) Theresa -Creely, in 1788; by the latter he had Louis Tesson Honoré 3d, b. St. -Louis about 1790; married Amaranthe Dumoulin; d. there Aug. 20th, -1827. The one Pike names was no doubt No. 2. - -[V-3] This piece is the inclosure mentioned in Art. 2. In the orig. -ed. it had no number, and occupied p. 5. - -[V-4] Doc. No. 3, p. 6-9, of the orig. ed. was printed in a peculiarly -misleading manner. In the first place it was headed in capitals, -"Conferences held with different bands of Indians, on a voyage up the -Mississippi, in the years 1805 and 1806," though it was entirely -occupied with a single such conference, namely, that with the Sioux, -of Sept. 23d, 1805. In the second place, this major head was followed -by an italicised minor head which properly covered only Pike's speech -on the occasion, yet included the important terms of the treaty -effected, as the latter was tacked on to Pike's speech without any -separate heading, and even without any break in the text. We must -therefore break orig. Doc. No. 3 into two pieces, to be enumerated as -Art. 4 and Art. 5. For the former of these, which is Pike's speech, -the orig. minor head of Doc. No. 3 may be retained. For the latter of -these, which is the Sioux treaty, a new head must be supplied; -especially as this is by far the most important result of Pike's -Mississippi voyage--perhaps more important than all the rest -collectively--concerning which there is a great deal to be said. - -[V-5] Who the "father" may be whom Pike imposes upon the Indians in -his various powwows is not always clear. Sometimes President Jefferson -appears to be indicated; sometimes General Wilkinson; sometimes Pike -himself. In the present instance it is General Wilkinson, and the -Osage mission in mention is that upon which Lieutenant George Peter -had been detailed by the general. This appears in a letter from -General Wilkinson to the Secretary of War, dated St. Louis, Aug. 25th, -1805, now on file in the War Department, and in the following extract: -"I find our parties under Lieuts. Pike and Peter are making rapid -progress on their routes. Pike had ascended the Mississippi 150 miles -on the fifth day after he left this place, and I have just received a -letter from Peters [_sic_] dated the 19th inst., 150 miles up the -Osage River, altho' he left S^t. Charles, 25 miles from the mouth of -the Missouri, on the 10th inst. and had been obstructed by almost -incessant rains and consequent high waters. He is charmed with the -river and its banks, which He reports to be far superior to those of -the Ohio in beauty and fertility--Independent of the immediate objects -of these parties, they serve to instruct our young officers and also -our soldiery, on subjects which may hereafter become interesting to -the United States." George Peter of Maryland was appointed from the -District of Columbia to be a second lieutenant of the 9th Infantry, -July 12th, 1799, and honorably discharged June 15th, 1800; he was -appointed lieutenant of Artillerists and Engineers, Feb. 16th, 1801; -of Artillerists, Apr. 1st, 1802; became captain, Nov. 3d, 1807; was -transferred to the Light Artillery in May, 1808; resigned, June 11th, -1809; and died June 22d, 1861. - -[V-6] As explained in note 1, p. 221, this article requires -separation from Art. 4, from which it is totally distinct, though the -two form undistinguished parts of one Doc. No. 3, of the orig. ed. I -accordingly set them apart, and supply a new heading for Art. 5; but I -reprint the latter _precisely_ as it stands in the orig. ed., for -reasons which will presently appear. As originally drafted by Pike, -and by him communicated to General Wilkinson under cover of a letter -of equal date, it appears to have been "scarcely legible," as the -general informs the Secretary of War in a letter before me (see Art. -6). I doubt that this extraordinary document ever existed in a form -which might not be set aside as fatally defective; and I do not doubt -that we acquired legal title to the lands by some means subsequent to -this invalid instrument. The probability is that upon due and -sufficient investigation of points of law involved it would appear -that the supposed cession of lands was not a legally accomplished fact -until made such by later negotiation or legislation, with which we -have here nothing to do. The following argument concerning Pike's -treaty, as simply a starting-point for further steps in the -transaction, was submitted in the press-proofs to my relative James M. -Flower, Esq., of Chicago, who had no material modification to suggest. - -Let us first examine that version of the document which Pike presents -upon his own page, and which is therefore presumably authentic. - -1. The preamble recites that a conference was held "between the United -States of America and the Sioux nation of Indians." But it does not -appear that either of the alleged parties to the transaction was -officially and legally represented. The Sioux nation consisted in 1805 -of at least seven tribes, only one of which was concerned in the -affair; and if only the consent of this one tribe was required to -effect the cession the conference is erroneously described. -Furthermore, it does not appear by what authority Pike assumed to -represent the United States. He signs himself "agent" at the -conference. Agent of whom or of what? He was certainly not an Indian -agent, empowered by the United States to effect treaties with aliens; -and though it is true that he was instructed by his military superior -to obtain if possible certain cessions, among which was the cession of -land at and near the mouth of St. Peter's r., the question recurs -whether General Wilkinson was competent to issue military orders to -that effect without the authority of the government; and no such -authority is expressed or necessarily implied in the terms of the -alleged treaty. - -2. Art. 1, which ostensibly declares what lands were supposed to be -ceded, does in fact declare or describe no such lands sufficiently or -recognizably, and is furthermore vitiated by a blunder which would -constitute a fatal flaw in the title, if contested. (_a_) "Nine miles -square at the mouth of the St. Croix," is in the first place an -impossibility, because the mouth of the St. Croix has no such -dimensions; and in the second place may mean either a tract of 81 -square miles, whose center is at the mouth of the said river, or any -one of four or more square tracts of the said extent, any one of whose -angles, or any indetermined point of one of whose sides, is at the -mouth of the said river; and in no one of these contingencies is the -direction in which the remaining bounds are to be laid off described -either by points of the compass or by natural landmarks. (_b_) The -asterisk set at the words "St. Croix" refers to a memorandum which -Pike causes to appear as a clause of the treaty itself, interpolated -of his own motion, without the knowledge or consent of the other party -to the transaction; it is also unintelligible on its face. "My demand -was one league below." Below what? Below the mouth of the St. Croix? -That would be the obvious inference; but it would be erroneous to so -infer. "Their reply was 'from below.'" This is absolutely -unintelligible as it stands; it has no meaning whatever. "I imagine -(without iniquity) they may be made to agree." Is it Pike's -imagination that is without iniquity? Or is it some agreement that may -be brought about without iniquity between his demands and the terms of -the cession? Or is it the Indians who can without iniquity be made to -agree with a demand that conflicts with the terms of the cession as -understood by them? In point of fact, however, this interpolated -clause of the treaty, or interpolated memorandum relating to the terms -of the cession, has nothing whatever to do with the lands at or near -the St. Croix r., because the asterisk which points out the place of -the interpolation is misplaced by error of the types. The words which -stand "St. Croix,* also from," etc., should stand "St. Croix. *Also -from," etc. The printer foiled Pike's intention of placing the -asterisk at the beginning of the clause to which it pertains, by -setting it at the end of the preceding clause, to which it does not -pertain. - -3. Now making the actually required transference of the asterisk to -its proper and intended position (where it stands correctly on a -manuscript copy of the orig. doc. now before me), the whole difficulty -which this obnoxious interpolation occasions is shifted to a much more -important clause of the treaty, upon which it remains in full force. -Accordingly we find that this most important clause beginning "*Also -from below," etc., includes an irreconcilable discrepancy between -Pike's demand and the Indians' concession. He appears to have demanded -that the tract of land ceded should begin "one league" below the -confluence of St. Peter's with the Mississippi r.; and the Indians -appear to have agreed, not to this demand, but to a cession of a tract -of land which should begin "from below" the said confluence; though -how far "from below" is not said, and there is nothing to show whether -the distance should be more or less than the "one league" which Pike -demanded and to which the Indians did not agree. But it is impossible, -either with or without "iniquity," to come to any incontestable -conclusion concerning a boundary so unintelligibly indicated. The most -we can do is to "imagine," as Pike did, that what the Indians were -willing to cede and did in fact cede by the terms of the treaty, was a -tract which began on one side at no appreciable or no considerable -distance below the said confluence, _i. e._, exactly or immediately at -the mouth of St. Peter's r. This is a reasonable and natural, if not -the only, inference to be drawn from the obscure and scarcely -intelligible terms of the article in question; and I believe that such -has always been the assumption of its true purport. The initial point -assumed, then, is the mouth of St. Peter's r.; but the article does -not show in what, if any, direction a line is to be drawn through this -point for the purpose of establishing a practicable boundary. No line -can be determined by fewer than two points; yet the article specifies -no second point to or from which a line may be drawn from or to the -mouth of St. Peter's r. to represent one side of the tract supposed to -have been ceded. The further terms of the article throw no light on -the case. These terms are only "to include the falls of St. Anthony, -extending nine miles on each side of the river." This clause of the -cession does not specify which one of the two said rivers the Falls of -St. Anthony extend nine miles on each side of, and it is also a -natural impossibility for the said falls to extend any miles on either -side of any river. Seeking some other construction to be put upon -terms which are obviously absurd if taken literally, we drag from -obscurity a semblance of meaning they may be assumed to have. This -meaning is, that the tract of land ceded does to all intent and -purpose extend from a point at the mouth of St. Peter's r. to some -point in or on the Mississippi r., at or beyond the Falls of St. -Anthony; but to what point is not specified. However, we may assume -that the phrase "to include the falls of St. Anthony" is to be -construed to include no more than these falls. This assumption gives -us a second datum-point of the required boundary, but does not in any -way assist us to an intelligible connection between the first point -and the second one, along which any line can be drawn as a boundary. -This deficiency of any line whatever may be assumed to be supplied by -the only remaining clause of the article, namely, "extending nine -miles on each side of the river." But in what direction are nine miles -on each side of the river to be taken? For anything that appears to -the contrary, the distance between the mouth of St. Peter's r. and the -Falls of St. Anthony may be nine miles, and there is nothing in the -terms of the article which forbids the measurement of nine miles to be -made up each side of the Mississippi from the mouth of St. Peter's r. -to the Falls of St. Anthony, and as much further as nine miles may be -found to reach. On such assumption, the cession included only a -section of the Mississippi r., and not any land on either side of this -river beyond its immediate banks; all that was ceded by the Sioux -being in such event a waterway and a waterpower. To claim as ours by -the terms of the treaty any land on either side of the river, we have -to proceed upon yet another assumption, namely, that the nine miles in -question were to be measured in a direction away from the river "on -each side." But even assuming such to have been the intent and purport -of the article, several further questions arise. The first of these -concerns the meaning of the word "each" in its present connection. -This word means either one of two or more things in their reciprocal -relation, and thus implies both; in the present instance, as a river -has only two sides, "each side" means both sides. It is clear that a -distance of nine miles is to be measured away from each side of the -river, _i. e._, is to include some distance on both sides of the -river; but the terms of the article do not state whether the whole of -nine miles' distance from one side of the river, and the whole of nine -miles' distance from the other side of the river, was ceded, or -whether a part of these nine miles on one side and the rest of these -nine miles on the other was ceded; or, in the latter case, what part -of these nine miles on one side and what part of these nine miles on -the other side were ceded. In other words, is the tract of land ceded -eighteen miles wide, or only nine miles wide? In the former case it -would of course lie in two equal tracts, one on each side of the -river; in the latter case, its location would be wholly indeterminate -(within certain obvious limitations); for it might be four and a half -miles on each side, or four miles on one side and five on the other, -and so on. Even were all the foregoing questions settled--arbitrarily, -conventionally, or otherwise--yet others would arise. Among these -would be the shape of the two lateral boundaries of the tract of land. -This tract is described as "extending nine miles on each side of the -river." That is, each boundary furthest from the river is to be at the -same distance from its own side of the river at every point of its own -extent. This requires that these bounds should be parallel with each -other, and such parallelism involves the meandering of two lines -parallel at every point with the meanders of the river. Assuming that -this were satisfactorily done, it would still be impossible to -determine the connection of these two sides of a theoretical tract of -land with the other two sides required for actual boundary. For there -is nothing in the article to show the direction in which either the -line which crosses the mouth of St. Peter's r., or the line which -crosses the Falls of St. Anthony, is to be extended to intersect any -lines, however the latter may have been projected. We are forced to -yet further assumptions, for which the terms of the cession give no -warrant whatever. No determinable shape is given to the tract of land -by the terms of the cession. If we assume that a square was -intended--as was expressly the intention in the case of the land about -the mouth of the St. Croix--we are confronted with some terms of the -article which put a square out of the question. By these terms the -land can only be a square in case the mouth of the St. Peter's r. be -nine miles below the Falls of St. Anthony, and in the further case -that we measure four and a half miles from one and four and a half -miles from the other side of the Mississippi, and make all connections -at right angles by means of right lines. It is needless to push the -difficulty further. Nothing of this sort, we may be sure, was in the -minds of the Sioux at the time, and it may be doubted that anything of -the sort occurred to Pike. The patent fact remains that even if both -parties to the transaction were competent to execute the instrument by -which certain lands were ceded, neither the situation, nor the shape, -nor the size of the tract ceded can be determined from the article of -the treaty relating thereto. How the cession thus left in the air may -have been subsequently determined, it is not to my present purpose to -inquire. My contention is simply that we acquired by Article 1 of this -famous treaty no tract or tracts of land which can be located -according to the terms of the article; and that if there be not a -cloud upon the title to every foot of land between and including Fort -Snelling and Minneapolis, and for some distance on each side of those -places, then such cloud has been removed by legislative or other -action subsequent to the supposed cession. It will also be remembered -by those interested in such things that the question has been raised -whether the Sioux who seem to have ceded this land to us had at the -time a clear title to it; for Carver claimed, and some of his heirs -have since sought to establish his claim, that the Sioux had at one -time made over to him, for a valuable consideration, certain lands -supposed to be the same, wholly or in part, as those which they made -over to Pike. This case I understand was tried, and decided adversely -in law; whether it be not a good case in equity is another question. - -4. With the competency of both parties to the transaction brought into -question, and with the size, shape, and situation of the land-grant -shown to be indeterminable, we have next to consider whether Article 2 -does not invalidate, vitiate, or void the whole instrument. In the -version which Pike's printer offers us, it reads: "Art. 2. That in -consideration of the above grants, the United States shall pay (filled -up by the senate with 2000 dollars)." This is simply ridiculous. By -the terms of Article 2, the valuable consideration which the Sioux -received is an imaginary nonentity described as "(filled up by the -senate with 2000 dollars)." However, this absurdity in the wording of -an international document is so clearly due to the heedlessness of an -inexperienced young officer, and what Pike meant by such phraseology -is so obvious, that we can let it go with only the further remark that -the purport of Article 2, as it stands on his page, is clearer than -anything in Article 1. For it is an obvious editorial interpolation of -his own, forming no part of the original document, but simply intended -to inform the reader that at some time subsequent to the execution of -the instrument by the contracting parties, the Senate of the United -States voted to fill up a place which had been left blank in the -original document with a clause which provided that the United States -should pay $2,000 to the Indians in consideration of the grant which -the latter had made. But this very fact goes far to show that the -instrument was in the first place fatally defective, no valuable or -any consideration whatever having been originally expressed or implied -in the terms of Article 2. On this point I have carefully examined two -manuscript copies of the "treaty," both made soon after the -transaction in question, and both now on file in the War Department. -One of the manuscripts reads: "Article 2^nd.--That in consideration -of the above Grants, the United States" The other manuscript reads: -"Art. 2^d That in consideration of the above grants the U. S." A -third version of Article 2, in an official imprint of the treaty, -published by the Indian Bureau, is: "ARTICLE 2. That in consideration -of the above grants the United States ******" Whence it appears that -the words "shall pay," which occur in the version our young friend -offers in his book, were also an editorial invention of his own; there -is no hint in the original instrument that the United States was to -pay anything. For anything that appears to the contrary, the United -States might have declared war with England, or amended the -Constitution, or done nothing, in consideration of the above grant. -Pike could give the Indians no assurance that the United States would -do anything whatever--that they would even accept the lands as a gift, -because he had no knowledge of future Acts of Congress, and no -authority to make any stipulations which should be binding on the -government. What is perhaps the most extraordinary thing about this -extraordinary transaction is that Pike informs Wilkinson by letter of -equal date that lands to the extent of about 100,000 acres had been -obtained "for a song"; calls the general's attention pointedly to the -fact "that the 2d article, relative to consideration, is blank;" that -the "song" in mention was worth about $250, being the value of certain -presents with which he had personally and privately feed the two -chiefs who signed the treaty, these presents being partly from -articles of his personal property; and suggests to the general "to -insert the amount of those articles as the considerations to be -specified in article 2d." General Wilkinson expresses unfeigned -surprise at this, in a letter before me addressed to the Secretary of -War, dated St. Louis, Nov. 26th, 1805, in which he says: "You have a -copy of the agreement under cover, in which, for what reason I cannot -divine, he [Pike] omits the stipulation on the part of the United -States;" and again, after quoting some clauses of Pike's letter to -himself, he remarks: "I do not fairly comprehend this reasoning, but I -dare say Mr. Pike will be able to explain it satisfactorily, tho' it -is unquestionable he is a much abler soldier than negotiator." We need -not take the view that this was a shady transaction; yet if Wilkinson -had inserted $250 as the consideration to be paid for the land, no -more than this could have been claimed by the Sioux, and as this was -in part Pike's personal property, some land would have been his own -unless he had chosen to make it over to the United States on being -reimbursed in a like amount--that is, if such a treaty was worth any -more than the paper on which it was written. The facts appear to be -that Pike hobnobbed with two chiefs till he got them to make him a -present of the land he wanted, in consideration of some presents which -he had already made to these two Indians privately. - -5. The third article of the treaty is intelligible, though it is not -clear what "exceptions" were "specified" in Article 1, as recited -in Article 3. The purport seems to be that the Sioux should retain -right of way in the land, and such other use of it as should not be -abridged or nullified by our occupation. At the same time it is not -clear that, since the United States were to have "full sovereignty and -power," by the terms of Article 1, they were not authorized to -withdraw all the privileges of Article 3 if they saw fit to do so. - -6. The question of the validity of many legal documents is affected by -the presence or absence of witnesses to the same. In the present case -no signatures of witnesses appear on the face of the instrument, and -there is nothing whatever to show that it is anything more than a part -of a speech which Pike made to certain Indians, and which two of them -subscribed besides himself. None of the published versions of the -"treaty" which I have seen includes this important feature. But one of -the manuscript copies before me has the names of four persons as -witnesses, all whites. Reference to the second paragraph of Pike's -speech will show him to have spoken of "a form of agreement which we -will both sign in the presence of the traders now present." Four names -which appear on the face of the manuscript copy just mentioned, in the -usual place of witnesses' signatures, and under a word which I make -out to be "Tests," (_i. e._, _teste_ or _testibus_, in the ablative -sing. or pl.) are: Wm. Meyer, M[urdoch] Cameron, James Frazer, Duncan -Graham. It is remarkable that, if these names appear on the original -document, they were not transcribed on all the copies, and also -printed with the published versions, as an integral part of the same. - -7. The names of the two chiefs who are supposed to have "touched the -quill" to this transaction, _i. e._, signed with their respective -marks, occur in variant forms in the several copies; but this is the -rule in such cases, and has no significance except of clerical -incompetency. In the officially published version above mentioned the -two names stand "Le Petit Carbeau" and "Way Aga Enagee," each of which -only differs by one letter from the correct form (in the case of the -French) or from a usual form (in the case of the Sioux). Each of these -chiefs has been already identified: see note 2, p. 85 and p. 86. - -The subsequent history of this mock instrument or valid document is -not less singular than the conditions and circumstances under which it -originated. Diligent search for it among the treaties duly published -in the U. S. Statutes at Large fails to show that it was ever included -in that collection of official papers. But certain facts were -furnished, with the text of the treaty itself, to the Indian Bureau by -Mr. C. C. Royce of the Bureau of Ethnology at Washington, and printed -by the former Bureau in an editorial note explanatory of that text, on -p. 316 of its official publication entitled "Laws of the United States -relating to Indian Affairs," etc., Washington, Government Printing -Office, 1884. It appears in this place that the treaty (in some form) -was submitted by the President to the Senate, March 29th, 1808, thus -more than two years after the execution of the instrument in writing; -that the Senate reported favorably upon it April 13th, 1808, with the -following amendment to fill the blank in Article 2: "After the word -'States' in the second article insert the following words: 'shall, -prior to taking possession thereof, pay to the Sioux two thousand -dollars, or deliver the value thereof in such goods and merchandise as -they shall choose.'" With this amendment the Senate unanimously -advised and consented to its ratification, April 16th, 1808. -Examination of the records of the State Department fails to disclose -that any subsequent action was taken by the President; and the -ratification of the treaty does not appear to have ever been -proclaimed. This is a very unusual circumstance; for such treaties -ordinarily have three official dates of as many stages in their -progress from inception to full effect, viz.: date of agreement -between the contracting parties; date of ratification by the proper -authority; and date of proclamation by the President. In the present -case the principal evidence that the alleged cession of lands was ever -a legally accomplished fact is said by Mr. Royce to consist in certain -correspondence of the War Department more than twenty-five years after -the date of ratification of the amended treaty by the Senate. But that -the cession was effected, legally or otherwise, is certain. In 1819 -Major Thomas Forsyth, Indian Agent at St. Louis, had received -instructions from the War Department to deliver "a certain quantity of -goods, say $2,000 worth," "in payment of lands ceded by the Sioux -Indians to the late Gen. Pike for the United States": see Forsyth's -Narrative, as orig. pub. in Wis. Hist. Coll., 1872, with notes by -Lyman C. Draper, and repub. in Minn. Hist. Coll., III. 1874, pp. -139-67. Yet we find General H. H. Sibley saying, _ibid._, p. 174: "In -the year 1821, Col. Leavenworth called together the chiefs and head -men of the Sioux bands, and procured from them a grant of land nine -miles square at the junction of the Mississippi and Minnesota rivers." -What can one make of such conflicting statements? Here it is said that -Colonel Leavenworth procured in 1821 a grant of land which Major -Forsyth is said to have paid for in 1819, and which Pike is said to -have secured in 1805. In the same place General Sibley says that there -was an article in the Leavenworth-Sioux treaty of 1821 by which the -Indians "donated" Pike's isl. to Mr. J. B. Faribault. - -[V-7] "The within articles" are those of the Sioux Treaty of same -date, inclosed in this letter to General Wilkinson, which reached St. -Louis on or about Nov. 26th, 1805, and was immediately communicated in -full to the Secretary of War. A manuscript copy of the original is on -file in the Record Division of the War Department, together with two -copies of General Wilkinson's own letter to General Dearborn on the -same subject and other topics. I might reproduce the manuscript of -Pike's letter textually, but as the copy before me is in a clerk's -hand, its peculiarities being thus not Pike's own, it is not worth -while to replace the above fair imprint of the original with another -version which would show no difference except in its clerical errors. -See preceding article for a criticism of the treaty itself which -formed the inclosure of the present letter. One passage from General -Wilkinson's unpublished letter to the Secretary of War may be here -cited: "He [Pike] tells me he has no doubt of being able to make Lake -Sable in pretty good Season, but observes that the source of the River -is in 'Lake Sang Sue,' about sixty Leagues further North & that He -must 'see that also'--in which case he will have stretched his orders -& we shall not hear of Him before the Spring--He reports that our flag -is every where received with pleasure, & that he had patched up a -Peace between the Scioux & Chepaways, who are generally at War----" - -[V-8] This is the "Original Leve" of p. 85--the chief whose name would -be in English Standing Elk or Standing Moose: see note 2, p. 87. -Élan is French for such an animal; it is the same word as the Dutch -eland, which we have borrowed for a South African species. - -[V-9] "Mareir" and "Tremer" are both wrong, no doubt, but I do not -know what the right names are. A clerk's copy of the original letter -before me has "Mercier" and "Fener"--latter perhaps François Fennai: -_cf._ W. H. S. C., XII. p. 160. - -[V-10] Article 7 was misplaced in the orig. ed. as No. 16, being -brought in at the end of all the rest of the correspondence. I -transfer it to its present proper place in chronological sequence of -these documents. It requires no comment, being simply the written -orders which the commanding officer gave his sergeant for the guidance -of the latter during the former's absence, and which Kennerman -proceeded to disobey in general and in particular. - -[V-11] The first visit of white men to the Mandans was made in 1738, -under the leadership of Pierre Gaultier de Varennes, otherwise Le -Sieur Verendrye. A relation of this journey, by Rev. Dr. Edward D. -Neill, occupies pp. 113-119 of the Macalester College Contributions, -Department of History, Literature, and Political Science, Second -Series, No. 5, which I extract in substance, as follows: - -On Sept. 24th, 1738, Verendrye was at the confluence of the Red River -of the North with the Assiniboine r. Two days afterward he began his -journey up the latter, and on the 30th, having found a suitable place, -he established Fort La Reine. Within a week, Mgr. de La Marque -(otherwise Charles Nolan, Noland, or Nolant, son of J. B. Nolan and -Marie Anne La Marque, b. 1694), and his brother, Sieur Nolan, with -eight men, arrived in two canoes from Mackinac. On Oct. 16th Verendrye -selected 10 of his own men and 10 of La Marque's party for the Mandan -expedition, and their march began on the 18th. The party consisted of -Verendrye, with two of his sons; La Marque and his brother Nolan; -together with some voyageurs and Indians--in all 52 persons. On the -21st, at the distance of 26 leagues from Fort La Reine, they reached -the first (no doubt Turtle) mountain. After slow marches -southwestwardly, the first Mandans were met on the morning of the -28th. A chief came and stood near Verendrye, and one of his band -presented corn on the cob and some tobacco. These Indians were only -covered with a buffalo-robe, wearing no breech-clout. The Mandan chief -requested the French to visit his village, and left on the 30th, -accompanied by about 600 Indians. On the evening of the third day's -march an Assiniboine, one of a number of this tribe who had already -joined the expedition, stole a bag containing Verendrye's papers and -other valuables; two men were hired to pursue the thief, and they -captured him. On the morning of the fourth day's march camp was broken -early in order to reach the Mandan settlement. A short distance from -the village they were met on an elevation by a delegation of Mandans, -who presented the calumet. Verendrye directed his son, the chevalier, -to draw up the French in line, place the flag of France four paces -before them, and fire three volleys. At 4 p. m., Dec. 3d, Verendrye -and his associates entered the village and were conducted to the lodge -of the principal chief, where a bag containing presents, and also 300 -livres, was stolen. The Assiniboines were much afraid of the Sioux, -from whom they had separated years before, and the Mandans, not -wishing to entertain Verendrye's escort, purposely raised a rumor that -the Sioux were coming, whereupon the Assiniboines decamped. Verendrye -was embarrassed for want of a good interpreter, but learned that on -the banks of the Missouri, lower down, were the Pananas, and then the -Pananis, at war with each other. Six days after the Assiniboines -decamped, Chevalier Verendrye, Sieur Nolan, six Frenchmen, and several -Mandans visited a settlement on the bank of the river, and then Sieur -Verendrye and Mgr. de La Marque inspected the village. There were 130 -cabins. A fort was built on an elevation in the open prairie, -surrounded by a ditch about 15 feet deep and from 15 to 18 feet wide. -(Compare A. J. Hill's plot of Mandan fortification, in T. H. Lewis' -Minor Antiq. Art. No. iv, p. 5, 1884.) The cabins were spacious, -separated into several apartments by thick planks, and goods were hung -on posts in large bags. The men were naked, covered only with a -buffalo robe; the women also, excepting a loose apron about a foot -long. On the evening of Dec. 4th Verendrye's son and Nolan came back -and reported that the village they had visited was twice as large as -that where they were. On Dec. 8th the latitude was taken and found to -be 48° 12' N. It was now decided to leave two men to winter with the -Mandans to acquire their language, and return with the rest to Fort La -Reine. Before they departed the head chief was presented with a flag, -and a leaden plate upon which the arms of France were cut. When ready -to leave, Verendrye fell sick and could not travel for two or three -days. On Dec. 24th, still weak, he reached the Assiniboine village, -and was agreeably surprised when the box of papers which had been -stolen was returned in good order. On Jan. 9th, 1739, the first height -of land between the Missouri and Assiniboine rivers was reached; here -Verendrye remained, while La Marque hurried on to Fort La Reine. There -he arrived Feb. 1st, and sent back assistance to Verendrye, who -reached the post, greatly fatigued, on the 10th of this month. The two -voyageurs who had been left with the Mandans returned to the fort -Sept. 27th, 1739, with reports representing more fiction than fact. - -In 1740 Verendrye visited Canada, and on Oct. 13th, 1741, he returned -to Fort La Reine. He afterward established a fifth post called Fort -Dauphin at Lac des Prairies, and a sixth, Fort Bourbon, at the mouth -of the Poskoyac r. (_i. e._, the Saskatchewan). In April, 1742, the -Chevalier Verendrye and his brother left Fort La Reine, and by way of -the Mandan village, on a southwestward course, are supposed to have -reached the Rocky Mountains in January, 1743. The Sieur Verendrye died -Dec. 6th, 1749. - -[V-12] "_As they were wont to be_" is a particularly fine rhetorical -climax to what our young friend so innocently prides himself on having -accomplished. It must have made the most stolid savage of them all -smile in his sleeve,--or whatever article of nether apparel he -wore,--as there never had been a time in his memory, or in the -memories of any of his ancestors as far back as his tribal traditions -went in the dim past, when the Sioux and Chippewas were not hereditary -foes, who killed and scalped each other with alacrious and -comprehensive reciprocity. It is true that in rare sporadic cases, -when both sets of red brethren were exhausted in war, or when each -found it necessary to let up a little on the other for a chance to -hunt in peace for the necessaries of life, temporary truces had been -agreed upon. But such spasms were supposed by neither party to last -longer than suited the convenience of either; nay, the very councils -in which such a peace was patched up sometimes ended in fresh -bloodshed on the sacred spot; and the annals of all the Indians of -North America might be sifted through and through to discover a more -notable case of inveterate, perpetual, and ferocious warfare than is -afforded by the hereditary hostility of these two powerful nations. -Pike was no doubt sincere and veracious in his representations of the -happy results of his peace-making; but his ignorance of the facts in -the case must have been complete, or he would have known that such a -truce as he effected was sure to be broken as soon as his back was -turned--if not sooner. Furthermore, the expediency of interfering with -such affairs may reasonably be doubted; for, paradoxical as it may -appear, a patched-up peace between tribes whose hostilities are -hereditary costs more lives than it saves, and makes more trouble than -it prevents. The vigilance of both parties is relaxed, private -enterprise replaces public policy, and individual murders multiply -rapidly till the normal equilibrium of forces is readjusted by open -declaration of the always existent intertribal hostility. War is the -necessary and natural state of affairs among savages; it is the main -business of their lives, and the principal if not the only means of -attaining all that is dearest to their hearts; and it is better for -all parties to proceed on that understanding in a straightforward, -businesslike way than to bushwhack for surreptitious scalps. Such -trophies of prowess must be had in any event and at all hazards; and -secret assassinations to secure them represent in the aggregate a -higher death-rate than that resulting from pitched battles. Meddling -with unmanageable things is never good policy, and interference with -intertribal relations of savages is generally inhumane as well as -impolitic. - -[V-13] The three whose answers to Pike's address are given in this -article have already been sufficiently identified: see back, note -7, p. 156, note 10, p. 169, note 13, p. 172. It is amusing to -observe the unanimity with which they declined the polite invitation -to visit General Wilkinson at St. Louis. Old Sweet's regrets strike me -as the most ingenuous. What was the use of his going in person if he -sent his pipe? If we send our card to a functionary in acknowledgment -of an invitation, is not the etiquette of the occasion accomplished by -that civil ceremony? Sucre's suggestion regarding the Sioux of the -upper Minnesota r., whose intentions were doubtful, was eminently -practical--if they wanted peace, let them so signify in the usual -manner. Chef de la Terre seems to have been less resourceful in polite -excuses than the other two. He could not go unless Sucre did; but some -other day, perhaps, etc. Flat Mouth's remarks were the most astute. -His excuse, whether feigned or not, was good; but as to his intention -of burying the hatchet so far out of sight that he would let the Sioux -strike him even once without digging it up, we may indulge a doubt. - -[V-14] This is true in a certain sense. When Pike was on Cass l., at -the mouth of Turtle r., Feb. 12th-14th., 1806, he was on a -Mississippian water-way of communication with Red r. and so with -Hudsonian waters. But this must not be taken to indicate that he ever -reached the divide between these waters, still less that he passed to -Red r. or Red l. The fact that it has been so taken gives occasion for -this note. For the situation at the dates said, see note 8, p. 157. - -[V-15] Orig. No. 12, though only entitled, "A speech delivered to the -Puants, at the Prairie des Cheins the 20th day of April, 1806," -included, besides the speech covered by this heading, various other -matters which came up April 21st, in another council with the same -Winnebagoes, and furthermore gave a report of a conference with the -Sioux, etc. Accordingly, I separate Orig. No. 12 into two articles, -making Pike's speech Art. 15, and supplying a new head for Art. 16, to -cover the rest of the proceedings at Prairie du Chien. - -[V-16] The above paragraph formed no part of the letter to which it is -appended, being an explanatory note which Pike added when he was about -to print the letter in his book. One reason why the Indians did not -get the medals they had been led to expect is evident in the following -extract of a letter before me from General Wilkinson to the Secretary -of War, dated St. Louis, Dec. 3d, 1805: "The Indians in all directions -Clamour for Medals, & it is found policy to present them, but we have -not one in the Country, or among the factory Goods--If you send any -out let them be addressed to the Superintendant & not the Agent, for -many & obvious reasons--the last aims at too much importance & the -former may need some." - -[V-17] This is the last letter we have from Pike on the subject of the -Mississippi voyage. It is, in fact, a letter of transmittal of his -official report to the commanding general, and thus a sort of preface -or introduction to the whole subject. In two weeks from the date of -this communication Pike had started up the Missouri on his second -expedition, and of course did nothing further with his Mississippi -matters until he had returned from Mexico, the following year. Article -19 therefore completes the batch of miscellaneous documents, chiefly -letters, which I have grouped in this chapter of "Correspondence and -Conferences." But we have still to deal with four formal articles -relating to the Mississippian voyage; these I make the subjects of the -following chapters. - -[V-18] The reference is here to Captain Meriwether Lewis' Statistical -View of the Indian Nations, etc., which formed the second one of five -papers accompanying President Jefferson's message to Congress, Feb. -16th, 1806: see L. and C., ed. 1893, p. cviii. - -[V-19] Mr. George Anderson, the same who furnished Pike with most of -the data he obtained concerning the fur-trade. See next chapter, on -the commerce of the Mississippi. - - - - -CHAPTER VI. - -COMMERCE OF THE MISSISSIPPI.[VI-1] - -_Observations on the trade, views, and policy of the North West -Company, and the national objects connected with their commerce, as it -interests the Government of the United States._[VI-2] - - -The fur-trade in Canada has always been considered an object of the -first importance to that colony, and has been cherished by the -respective governors of that province by every regulation in their -power, under both the French and English administrations. The great -and almost unlimited influence the traders of that country acquired -over the savages was severely felt, and will long be remembered by the -citizens on our frontiers. Every attention was paid by the cabinet of -St. James, in our treaty with Great Britain, to secure to their -Canadian subjects the privilege of the Indian trade within our -territories, and with what judgment they have improved the advantages -obtained by the mother country, time will soon unfold. - -In the year 1766, the trade was first extended from Michilimackinac, -to the northwest, by a few desperate adventurers, whose mode of life -on the voyage, and short residence in civilized society, obtained for -them the appellation of Coureurs des Bois. From those trifling -beginnings arose the present North West Company, who, notwithstanding -the repeated attacks made on their trade, have withstood every shock, -and are now, by the coalition of the late X. Y. Company, established -on so firm a basis as to bid defiance to every opposition which can be -made by private individuals. - -They, by a late purchase of the king's posts in Canada, extend their -line of trade from Hudson's Bay to the St. Lawrence, and up that river -on both sides to the Lakes; thence to the head of Lake Superior, at -which place the North West Company have their headquarters; thence to -the source of Red river and all its tributary streams through the -country to the Missouri; through the waters of Lake Winipie to the -Saskashawin; on that river to its source; up Elk river to the Lake of -the Hills; up Peace river to the Rocky mountains; from the Lake of the -Hills [Lac des Buttes, old French name of Lake Athapasca] up Slave -river to Slave Lake. This year they have dispatched a Mr. [(not Sir) -Alexander] Mackenzie on a voyage of trade and discovery down -Mackenzie's river to the north sea; and also a Mr. M'Coy,[VI-3] to -cross the Rocky mountains and proceed to the western ocean with the -same objects in view. - -They have had a gentleman by the name of [David] Thompson[VI-4] making -a geographical survey of the northwest part of the continent; who, -for three years, with an astonishing spirit of enterprise and -perseverance, passed over all that extensive and unknown country. His -establishment, although not splendid, the mode of traveling not -admitting it, was such as to admit of unlimited expenses in everything -necessary to facilitate his inquiries; and he is now engaged in -digesting the important results of his enterprise. - -I find from the observations and suggestions of Mr. Thompson, when at -the [Julian] source of the Mississippi, that it was his opinion the -line of limits between the United States and Great Britain must run -such a course from the head of the Lake of the Woods as to touch the -source of the Mississippi; and this I discovered to be the opinion of -the North West Company, who, we may suppose or reasonably conclude, -speak the language held forth by their government. The admission of -this pretension will throw out of our territory all the upper part of -Red river, and nearly two-fifths of the territory of Louisiana. -Whereas, if the line be run due west from the head of the Lake of the -Woods, it will cross Red river nearly at the entrance of Reed river, -and, it is conjectured, strike the western ocean at Birch Bay, in -Queen Charlotte Sound. Those differences of opinion, it is presumed, -might be easily adjusted between the two governments at the present -day; but it is believed that delays, by unfolding the true value of -the country, may produce difficulties which do not at present exist. - -The North West Company have made establishments at several places on -the south side of Lake Superior, and on the head waters of the -Sauteaux and St. Croix, which discharge into the Mississippi. The -first I met with on the voyage up was at Lower Red Cedar Lake, about -150 miles above Isle de Corfeau [Corbeau], on the east side of the -river, and distant therefrom six miles. It is situated on the north -point of the lake, and consists of log buildings, flanked by picketed -bastions on two of its angles. The next establishment I met with was -situated on Sandy Lake: for a description of which, see document -[herewith] marked A. Midway between Sandy Lake and Leech Lake is a -small house not worthy of notice [Grant's: see note 52 p. 144]. On -the southwest side of the latter lake, from the outlet of the -Mississippi, stand the headquarters of the Fond du Lac department: for -information relative to which, have reference to document marked B. -Here resides the director of this department. In document C is a -recapitulation of the specific articles of 115 packs of peltry, which -will give an idea of the whole, amounting per said voucher to 233 -packs per annum in the Fond du Lac department. Document D will explain -the relative price of goods in that district; but the trading prices -are various, according to situations and circumstances. Voucher E -shows the number of men, women, and children in the service of the -North West Company in the district aforesaid, with their pay per -annum, etc. This department brings in annually 40 canoes; from which, -by a calculation made by a gentleman [George Anderson] of veracity and -information, who has been 18 years in the Indian trade and in the -habit of importing goods by Michilimackinac, it appears that the -annual amount of duties would be about $13,000. The Lower Red river, -which I conceive to be within our territory, would yield about half -that sum, $6,500, and the Hudson Bay Company's servants, who import by -the way of Lake Winipie, $6,500 more. - -Thus is the United States defrauded annually of about $26,000. From my -observations and information, I think it will be an easy matter to -prevent the smuggling of the Fond du Lac department, by establishing a -post with a garrison of 100 men, and an office of the customs, near -the mouth of the St. Louis, where all goods for the Fond du Lac -department must enter. This is at present the distributing point, -where the company have an establishment, and where the goods, on being -received from Kamanitiquia, are embarked for their different -destinations. That point also commands the communication with Lake de -Sable, Leech Lake, Red Lake, etc. I am also of opinion that the goods -for Red River, if it be within our boundary, would enter here, in -preference to being exposed to seizure. It is worthy of remark that -the charter of the Hudson's Bay Company extends to all its waters: and -if the British government conceived they had authority to make such a -grant, they certainly would claim the country therein specified, which -would extend far south of the west line from the head of the Lake of -the Woods. - -The North West Company were about to push their trade down the -Mississippi until they would have met the traders of Michilimackinac; -but I gave them to understand that it could not be admitted, as -appears per letter to Mr. Dickson. - - -A. _Description of the N. W. Company's Fort at Sandy Lake._ - -The fort at Sandy Lake is situated on the S. side, near the W. end, -and is a stockade 100 feet square, with bastions at the S. E. and N. -W. angles, pierced for small-arms. The pickets are squared on the -outside, round within, about one foot diameter, and 13 feet above -ground. There are three gates: the principal one fronts the lake on -the N., and is 10 × 9 feet; the one on the W. 6 × 4 feet; and the one -on the E. 6 × 5 feet. As you enter by the main gate you have on the -left a building of one story, 20 feet square, the residence of the -superintendent. Opposite this house on the left of the E. gate, is a -house 25 × 15 feet, the quarters of the men. On entering the W. gate -you find the storehouse on the right, 30 × 20 feet, and on your left a -building 40 × 20 feet, which contains rooms for clerks, a workshop, -and provision store. - -On the W. and N. W. is a picketed inclosure of about four acres, in -which last year they raised 400 bushels of Irish potatoes, cultivating -no other vegetables. In this inclosure is a very ingeniously -constructed vault to contain the potatoes, and which likewise has -secret apartments to conceal liquors, dry goods, etc. - - -B. _Description of the N. W. Company's Fort at Leech Lake._ - -The fort is situated on the W. side of the lake, in lat. 47° 16' 13" -N. It is built near the shore, on the declivity of a rising ground, -having an inclosed garden of about 5 acres on the N. W. It is a square -stockade of 150 feet, the pickets being 16 feet in length, 3 feet -under and 13 feet above the ground, bound together by horizontal bars -each 10 feet long. Pickets of 10 feet are likewise driven into the -ground on the inside of the work, opposite the apertures between the -large pickets. At the W. and E. angles are square bastions, pierced -for fire-arms. - -The main building in the rear, fronting the lake, is 60 × 25 feet, 1½ -story high; the W. end of this is occupied by the director of the Fond -du Lac department. He has a hall 18 feet square, bed-room, and -kitchen, with an office. The center is a trading shop of 12½ feet -square, with a bedroom in the rear, of the same dimensions. The E. end -is a large store 25 × 20 feet, under which is an ice-house well -filled. The loft extends over the whole building, and contains bales -of goods, packs of peltries; also, chests with 500 bushels of wild -rice. Beside the ice-house, there are cellars under all the other -parts of the building. The doors and window-shutters are musket-proof. - -On the W. side is a range of buildings 54 × 18 feet, fronting the -parade, the N. end of which is a cooper's shop 18 × 14 feet, with a -cellar; joining to which is a room called the Indian hall, expressly -for the reception of Indians, and in which the chiefs who met me in -council were entertained. In this hall are two closed bunks for -interpreters; its dimensions are 22 × 18 feet. Adjoining this is a -room 18 feet square for the clerks, in which my small party were -quartered. Under both of the latter rooms are cellars. - -On the E. side is a range of buildings 50 × 18 feet, which has one -room of 20 feet and one of 15 feet, for quarters for the men; also, a -blacksmith's shop of 15 feet, which is occupied by an excellent -workman. On the left of the main gate, fronting the river, is the -flag-staff, 50 feet in height. - -They intended building a small blockhouse over the main gate, fronting -the lake, to place a small piece of artillery in. There are likewise -gates on the N. and E. flanks, of about 10 × 8 feet. - - -D. _The price of goods in exchange with the Indians._ - - Blankets, 3 and 2½ point, each, [VI-5]plus 4 $8 - Blankets, 2 point, each, 2 4 - Blankets, 1½ point, each, 1 2 - Blue strouds, per fathom, 4 8 - Scarlet cloth, 8-6, 6 12 - Worsted binding, per piece, 4 8 - Vermilion, per pound, 4 8 - Molten [glass beads], blue and white, per fathom, 2 4 - Gunpowder, per half-pint, 1 2 - Balls, per 30, 1 2 - Shot of all sorts, per handful, 1 2 - Tobacco, per carrot, 4 8 - Twist tobacco, per fathom, 1 2 - Beaver-traps, each, 4 8 - Half-axes, each, 2 4 - Castites, 1 2 - N. W. guns, each, 10 20 - Knives, each, 1 2 - -For wampum and silver works, as well as rum, there is no regulation; -but the real price of goods here, in exchange for peltry, is about 250 -per cent. on the prime cost. - - GEO. ANDERSON. - - -C.--_Recapitulation of Furs and Peltries, North West Company, 1804-5, -Fond du Lac Department; Marks and Numbers as per margin._ - - TABLE LEGEND: - Column A = Marks. - Column B = Numbers. - Column C = Wt. of Packs, lbs. - Column D = Bears. - Column E = Bear Cubs. - Column F = Beaver, Mixed. - Column G = Beaver, Large. - Column H = Beaver, Small. - Column I = Beaver, Wt. in lbs. - Column J = Badgers. - Column K = Carcajoux. - Column L = Deer. - Column M = Foxes. - Column N = Fishers. - Column O = Lynxes. - Column P = Martens. - Column Q = Minks. - Column R = Original skins dr's'd. - Column S = Do. Parchment. - Column T = Do. Green. - Column U = Otters. - Column V = Racoons. - Column W = Musk Rats. - Column X = Wolves. - - ======+====+===+==+=+==+==+==+==+==+=+==+=+==+==+===+==+==+==+==+===+==+===+= - A | B | C | D|E| F| G| H| I| J|K| L|M|N | O| P | Q| R| S| T| U | V| W |X - ------+----+---+--+-+--+--+--+--+--+-+--+-+--+--+---+--+--+--+--+---+--+---+- - N. W. | 1 | 92| | | | | | | | |45| | | | | | | | | | | | - L. L. | 2 | 92| | | | | | | | |47| | | | | | | | | | | | - [Leech| 3 | 93| | | | | | | | |47| | | | | | | | | | | | - Lake] | 4 | 91| | | | | | | | |45| | | | | | | | | | | | - | 5 | 90| | | | | | | | |47| | | | | | | | | | | | - | 6 | 91| | | | | | | | |47| | | | | | | | | | | | - | 7 | 92| | | | | | | | |39| | | | | | | | | | | | - | 8 | 87| | | | | | | | |40| | | | | | | | | | | | - | 9 | 92| | | | | | | | |38| | | | | | | | | | | | - | 10 | 91| | | | | | | | |38| | | | | | | | | | | | - | 11 | 92| | | | | | | | |38| | | | | | | | | | | | - | 12 | 87| | | | | | | | |38| | | | | | | | | | | | - | 13 | 90| | | | | | | | |44| | | | | | | | | | | | - | 14 | 92| | | | | | | | |39| | | | | | | | | | | | - | 15 | 93| | | | | | | | |35| | | | | | | | | | | | - | 16 | 93| | | | | | | | |40| | | | | | | | | | | | - | 17 | 99| | | | | | | | |40| | | | | | | | | | | | - | 18 | 88| | | | | | | | |35| | | | | | | | | | | | - | 19 | 96| | | | | | | | | 2| | | | | | | | | | |655| - | 20 | 95| | | | | | | | | 2| | | | | | | | | | |607| - | 21 | 90| | |68| | |90| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | 22 | 89| | |66| | |89| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | 23 | 92| | |64| | |92| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | 24 | 92| | |71| | |92| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | 25 | 92| | |68| | |92| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | 26 | 92| | |65| | |92| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | 27 | 91| | |73| | |91| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | 28 | 89| | |75| | |89| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | 29 | 90| | |75| | |90| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | 30 | 90| | |85| | |90| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | 31 | 91| | |61| | |91| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | 32 | 92| | |60| | |92| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | 33 | 91| | |67| | |91| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | 34 | 91| | |74| | |91| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | 35 | 91| 5| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |60 | | | - | 36 | 99| 4| | | | | | | | 2| | | | | | | | |60 | | | - | 37 | 92|18| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | 38 | 93| 4| | | | | | | | 3| |22|25| | | | | |22 | | | - | 39 | 92| 6| | | | | | | | | |11| 4| | 2| | | |16 | 1| 94| - | 40 | 87| 6| | | | | | |1| 2|1|11| | 5|21| | | | |27|144| - | 41 | 92| 6| |29| | |20| | | 7| | 1| 1| | 5| | | |16 |10| 58| - | 42 | 93| | |66| | |93| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | 43 | 93| | |79| | |93| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | 44 | 90| | |70| | |93| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | 45 | 93| 2| | | | | | 1| |12| | 3| | 14| 2|13| | |7-1/3 | 2| 9 | - | 46 | 91| | | |79| | |91| | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | 47 | 90| | | |89| | |90| | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | 48 | 91| | | |69| | |91| | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | 49 | 91| | | |73| | |91| | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | 50 | 87| 2| | | | | | |1| 2| |12| 1| 3|15| 4| | |45 | | | - | 51 |104| 2| |36| | | | | | 1| | 2| 2| | 2| 2| | |10 | 1|137| - | 52 |127| 1| |46| | | | | | | | 4| | 4| 3| 2| | |11 | 2|117| - N. W. | 1 | 94| | | |57| 9|94| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - R. | 2 | 91| | | |51|14|91| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - [Red | 3 | 92| | | |50|22|92| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - Lake] | 4 | 92| | | |49|19|92| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | 5 | 92| | | |54|31|92| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | 6 | 92| | | |59| 6|62| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | 7 | 95| 7|1| | 2| | | | | | | | 3| | |11| | | | 3| | - | 8 | 92| | | | 2| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |672| - | 9 | 92| | | | | | | |1| 1| |15| | | | | | 1|67 | | |1 - | 10 | 90| | | | 1| | | | | 1| | | 3| | |11| | | | | | - | 11 | 90| 8|2| | 2| | | | | |1| 3| 7| 37|24| 5| | | | | 3| - | 12 | 95| | | |45| 8| | | | | | 2| | | | | | |11 |13| | - | 13 | 93| 4|4| | | | | | | | |11| | 7|19| 9| 1| | 1 | 3| 58| - | 14 | 93| 2|2| |13| 9| | | | | | 7| | 1| 1|11| | | 6 | 4| 6| - | 15 | 92| | | | 3| 6|14| | | | | | | 2| 1| | 2| 8| 1 | | 1| - N. W. | 1 | 86| | | | | | | | |14|1|18| | 3| 7| | | |25 | 7| | - S. | 2 | 91| | | | | | | | | 6| | | | | | | | | | |500| - [Sandy| 3 | 88| | | |40|29|88| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - Lake.]| 4 | 91| | | |37|32|91| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | 5 | 91| | | |37|30|91| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | 6 | 90| | | |31|37|90| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | 7 | 89| | | |38|26|89| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | 8 | 92| | | |41|33|92| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | 9 | 86| | | |43|17|86| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | 10 | 87| | | |32|40|87| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | 11 | 88| | | |41|28|88| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | 12 | 90| | | |44|22|90| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | 13 | 87| | | |35|38|87| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | 14 | 92| | | |43|23|92| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | 15 | 95| | | | | | | | | 5| |22| | | | | | |63 | | | - | 16 | 92| | | | | | | | |25| | 6| 3| 15|14| | | | |16| | - | 17 | 86| | | | | | | | |32| | | | | | | | | | | | - | 18 | 90| | | | | | | | |31| | | | | | | | | | | | - | 19 | 91| | | | | | | | |29| | | | | | | | | | | | - | 20 | 95| | | | | | | | |33| | | | | | | | | | | | - | 21 | 87| 7|1| |30| |43| | | 6| | | | | | | | | | | | - | 22 | 83| | | |38|33|83| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | 23 | 93| | | |34|42|93| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | 24 | 87| | | |34|43|87| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | 25 | 89| | | |36|37|89| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | 26 | 92| | | |57|14|92| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | 27 | 94|16|1| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | 28 | 94| 4| | | | | | | | 2| |11| | | | | | |58 | | | - | 29 | 90| | | | | | | | | 2| | | | | | | | | | |60 | - | 30 | 91| | | | | | | | | | | 5| 1| 43|22| 1|11| | |10| | - | 31 | 93| | | | | | | | |39| | | | | | | | | | | | - | 32 | 93| | | | | | | | |43| | | | | | | | | | | | - | 33 | 90| | | | | | | | |43| | | | | | | | | | | | - | 34 | 91| | | | | | | | |35| | | | | | | | | | | | - | 35 | 99| | | | | | | | |41| | | | | | | | | | | | - | 36 | 86| | | | | | | | |44| | | | | | | | | | | | - | 37 | 72| | | | | | | | | 7| | | | | 2|13| 1| | 1 | | 55| - | 38 | 92| 1| | |35|33| | | | 5| | | | | | 1| | | 5 | | | - F. L. |Sum-| | 1| | | 7| |12| | | | | 1| | | 3| | 1| | 4 | |162| - |mer | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - [Fond |Nos.| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - du | 1 | 91| | | | 2| | 4| | | | | | | | | | | | | |615| - Lac.] | 2 | 93| | | |51|14|93| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | 3 | 92| | | |45|24|92| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | 4 | 93| | | |44|25|93| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | 5 | 88| | | |41|34|88| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | 6 | 95| 5| | | | | | | | | | | |199|40| 8| | | | | | - | 7 | 95| 5| | | | | | | | | |16| | | | 6| | |35 | | | - | 8 | 95| 4| | | | | | | | | | | | | | 1| | | | |472| - | 9 | 93| 9|4| | | | | | | 2|1| | 3| | | 6| | | 6 | 6| 49| - | 10 | 98| |1| |30|19| | | | 1| | | | | | 2| | 2| | | | - |A. | | | | |11| |15| | | | | | | 2| | 2| | | 3 | | | - |Pac-| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - |ton | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - ------+----+---+--+-+--+--+--+--+--+-+--+-+--+--+---+--+--+--+--+---+--+---+- - Amount of the above returns, 115 Packs. - Different establishments not included, 34 Packs. - Amount of the E. of the X. Y. Company, 84 Packs. - Total amount, 233 Packs. - - -E. _Return of men employed in the N. W. Company's Department of Fond -du Lac, for 1805, with the amount of their wages per annum, etc._ - - Accountants, 3 - Clerks, and men receiving interpreters' wages, 19 - Interpreters, 2 - Canoe-men, 85 - --- - Total, 109 - - _Women and Children belonging to the Establishment._ - - Women, 29 - Children, 50 - --- - Total, 79 - - Livres. - - Sum of the wages per annum of the above 109 men, 63,913 - Average wages of each man, 586 7 - Due by the N. W. Company, 38,566 8 - Due to the N. W. Company, 24,326 16 - -N. B. The above women are all Indians, there not being a single white -woman N. W. of Lake Superior. - -FOOTNOTES: - -[VI-1] This article, for which I introduce a new chapter, with a new -major head, formed Doc. No. 17 of the orig. ed., pp. 35-40 and a -folder, of the Appendix to Pt. 1. The original title of the piece is -preserved as a minor head of the chapter, and this will also serve to -effect some sort of typographical uniformity with the following five -pieces, A, B, C, D, E, which are integral parts of the article, yet -were in the orig. ed. separated from the rest of the article under a -different heading, in larger type than the main heading itself; -moreover, the piece marked C, whose proper position was of course -between B and D, was a separate folding blanket-sheet bound to face p. -40, thus coming after E. The construction of this table is such that -it can be printed on two pages of the present edition, and be put -between D and E. - -Pike's remarks on the fur-trade are sound and very much to the point; -together with his descriptions of the trading-houses, etc., they -represent probably the best account extant of things as they were in -1805. His present Observations, etc., as well as his correspondence -with Hugh M'Gillis (Arts. 8 and 9 of the foregoing chapter, pp. -247-254), were extracted for use in the Statutes, Documents, and -Papers bearing on the Discussion respecting the Northern and Western -Boundaries of the Province of Ontario, pub. Toronto, Hunter, Rose and -Co., 1877, 8vo, pp. 318-323. - -[VI-2] The Indian trade is not among the least of the vexed questions -which the United States has sought to answer in the natural and -necessary process of causing the Indians to make their exeunt from the -world's stage. The prices at which goods were sold by private -individuals, whether French, English, or American, seem exorbitant, -extortionate--in a word, monstrous! But trade is a thing that seems to -regulate itself, without regard to theory or sentiment; the Indian -trade certainly did. I once asked the lion-tamer of a popular circus -what was the secret of his profession, expecting some discerning -remarks from him on the power of the human eye over wild beasts, and -so forth; but all he told me was, "You just have to know your lion." -In war, trade, or religion, you just have to know your Indian, as our -soldiers, traders, and priests found out for their respective selves. -General Whiting has some extremely moderate and judicious words on the -subject, in his Life of Pike, p. 231 _seq._, which I will reproduce in -substance, as it was a part of Pike's business on this voyage to keep -an eye on the Indian traders and trade. The various expenses attending -the transport of goods swelled the original value to such an -extraordinary degree that a knife cost an Indian the ordinary price of -a handsome sword, when he stuck it in his belt; and by the time his -squaw had put a yard and a half of blue strouds around her waist, her -lord was in debt for an amount that would have bought a city belle a -ball dress. Such high prices would have been ruinous to the Indian had -not their trade customs furnished a corrective. Few Indians ever -hunted beforehand; they seldom got their stock of skins to offer for -sale at a fair or any price, else the traffic would have been on more -nearly equal terms. They must have their outfit for the chase first, -and then they must feel the pangs of hunger before they would start on -a hunt. The trader was obliged to overcome their indolence by offering -certain inducements, besides furnishing the necessary means. This was -an invention of necessity on which the whole system of credits was -based, and on which such a structure of extortion and other evils was -reared. The trader had to let his goods go on credit into lazy, -improvident, always uncertain and often dishonest or criminal hands, -with no security for any adequate return for his outlay except in a -scale of ordinary prices that would cover him in case of extraordinary -losses. He took great risks and put up his premium accordingly. He -expected to realize 200 to 250 per cent. on the price of goods for -which he got anything, to cover the loss on what he got nothing for. -Thus the Indians were a prey to cupidity and extortion; they were -swindled, as it seems to us. Yet they had a way of getting even with -the most unprincipled trader, sometimes of beating him at his own -game. At the end of the hunt the Indian brought in his peltries. "If -these paid his debt," says Whiting, "which was not often the case, the -account was squared; if an arrearage remained, as was generally the -case, no reasoning nor threats could convince the red man that the -responsibility held over to another season, and that his obligations -survived the hunt. When that hunt terminated, and the furs obtained by -it had been fairly rendered, he considered the account as canceled. -Whether it was balanced or not was a question he did not undertake to -answer. - -"One of the objects Lieutenant Pike appears to have been instructed to -keep in view while on his trip, was the investigation of these evils -of the Indian trade, and to ascertain where proper trading -establishments could be fixed, which were intended to correct them. -These establishments were of course to be made under the patronage of -the Government. They were afterward actually made under the 'factor' -system. In a benevolent spirit, the United States enacted that certain -stores should be conveniently placed within the Indian territory, -where factors, having a salary and no interest in the trade, were to -keep on hand a constant supply of articles suitable for the Indians, -which were to be exchanged with them for peltries, the articles -bearing only a fair cost, all expenses included, and the peltries -being received at a fair rate. Government thus, out of kindness to the -Indians, became a trader, and a competitor with individual traders. - -"The theory was as promising as it was benevolent; but, like many -theories, it did not fulfill expectation when put into practice. It is -true that the Indian under it was sure of a just equivalent for such -furs and peltries as he brought in. This assurance was spread abroad -by agents, and was generally known and understood. But an important -consideration had been omitted in the calculations that suggested the -arrangement. Most of the Indians are improvident, and leave the morrow -to take care of itself. The future causes them no anxiety. It is the -present moment, with its gratifications, or its wants, that occupies, -almost exclusively, their minds--the former exhausted with blind -avidity, the latter borne with passive endurance. They seldom lay up -the means of providing themselves with the small equipments of a -hunting expedition. While they used the bow and arrow, it was -different. Then a few hours' exertion of their own hands provided all -that was necessary. But the moment a gun was put into their hands, -their dependence upon the trader was secured. They must have -ammunition, or their guns were more useless than the bow and arrow; -and they could obtain this only on credit. - -"Hence the United States factor, who had a knife at a few shillings, -and a stroud at not many more, and powder and ball at a fair rate, but -who could sell for cash only, or its equivalent, would find his -shelves nearly as full at the end of the season as at the beginning; -while the individual trader, who sold on credit, though he might sell -at an enormous profit, at a thousand per cent. above his government -competitor, would empty his shelves in a few weeks. Besides, no system -can work well unless it is managed well. The factor was expected, by -the law, to be honest and disinterested; and he was often so. Still, -he was in a remote part of the country, and beset by temptations, and -dealt with a people that were supposed to be unable to tell tales that -could be understood. The system was abandoned after a vain experiment -of a few years." - -About the time that Pike was on this expedition, Lewis and Clark also -had their attention turned to the same business. One of the results of -their observations was Lewis' Essay on an Indian Policy, which had -special regard to the commercial aspects of the case, and will never -go entirely out of date till the last Indian has bought his last -bullet, or had it fired into him. The reader is referred to this -article, occupying pp. 1215-43 of the 1893 ed. of L. and C. - -Trade is one of those things which, like a hen hunting for a nest, -does best when let alone. Any hen will lay more eggs and hatch more -chicks in a nest of her own selection than in the most artful -contrivances of the coop to provide for her comfort and convenience. -All interference with a man's tendency to take advantage of his -neighbor is unwise, and injurious to both parties. It tends to sharpen -the wits of the one and make him more of a knave than he was before; -while it blunts the wits of the other with a specious sense of being -protected, and thus makes him a bigger fool than ever. Trade being -what it is, in consequence of the great quantity of human nature there -is in mankind, can never be legislated into anything else than an -attempt to enrich one's self at another's expense by buying cheap and -selling dear. Free trade in all the markets of the world is the only -natural postulate; all tariff regulations and restrictions are simply -necessary concessions to the inherent weakness of artificial systems -of trade. The evils of damming individual channels of trade--or -rather, of attempting to dam them with desultory yet reiterated -interference--reach a climax of absurdity and injury in what is known -as tariff-tinkering. Very likely they ought to be _dammed_--all -avenues of selfishness ought to be; but they never will be in this -world. As to the practical worldly wisdom displayed in specific -measures to promote commercial activity by legislative interference, -it is probable that any jockey in the land, with a hidebound horse for -sale and some arsenic in his pocket, could give our legislators -pointers on those tricks which are said to be in all trades but ours. - -[VI-3] "A Mr. M'Coy" is not easily identified. I am inclined to think -that the name is McKay or Mackay, and that the person meant is -Alexander Mackay, who had been with Sir A. Mackenzie, left the N. W. -Co. in 1810, for Astor's American Fur Co., and was blown up with the -ship Tonquin in 1811; but I am far from feeling sure of this. - -[VI-4] David Thompson was among the Mandans from Dec. 29th, 1797, to -Jan. 10th, 1798. He left McDonald's house, which was near the mouth of -Mouse r., on Nov. 28th, en route to the Missouri. On Dec. 7th he -reached the old Ash house on Mouse r., "settled two years ago and -abandoned the following spring." Being unable to procure a guide here, -he took the lead himself and struck for Turtle mountain, west of which -he again crossed Mouse r., and followed this stream up to the bight of -the great loop it makes in North Dakota, at a point 37 m. from the -Missouri. Here leaving the river and coming south over the plains, he -struck the Missouri Dec. 29th, at a point 6 m. above the uppermost -Mandan village. These villages are said to have been five in number, -and to have contained in all 318 houses and seven tents, inhabited by -Mandan and Willow Indians in about equal numbers. (The census of the -Willow Indians is given as from 2,200 to 2,500, in another place in -Thompson's MS., where he calls them Fall Indians.) While among the -Mandans Thompson prepared a vocabulary of about 375 words of their -language. He left the villages Jan. 10th, 1798; but being delayed by -storms, it was Jan. 24th before he reached Mouse r., and Feb. 3d when -he regained McDonald's house. I take these items from J. B. Tyrrell's -paper on the journeys of David Thompson, read before the Canadian -Institute Mar. 3d, 1888, and pub. in advance of the Proceedings, -Toronto, 1888, 8vo, pp. 7, 8: see also note 9, 167. Another account -of Thompson's travels occupies pp. 94-103 of Statutes, etc., N. and W. -Bound. Ontario, pub. Toronto, 8vo, 1877. - -[VI-5] The _plus_ in the fur-trade was the standard of value, viz.: one -prime beaver (abiminikwa). In the above scale of prices the _plus_ was -reckoned as $2. The scale was a multiple or fraction of this, which -answered the purpose of an English shilling, French franc, Indian -rupee, or our dollar. Thus Perrault tells us that in 1784 a bear, an -otter, or a lynx was worth a _plus_; three martens or 15 muskrats were -also a _plus_; a buffalo was two _plus_, etc. A keg of "made" liquor, -_i. e._, three-fourths water, one-fourth alcohol, with a little -strychnine, _Cocculus indicus_, or tobacco-juice to flavor and color -it, has been sold to many an Indian for 20 to 40 _plus_. During my -recent canoe voyage to the source of the Mississippi, I believe that I -could have been provisioned, lodged, and transported by the Chippewas -for a month at the cost of a gallon or two of "made" whisky, had I -been provided with that article and disposed to put it to an unlawful -purpose. - - - - -CHAPTER VII. - -GEOGRAPHY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.[VII-1] - -_Observations on the Soil, Shores, Quarries, Timber, Islands, Rapids, -Confluent Streams, Highlands, Prairies, and Settlements on the -Mississippi,[VII-2] from St. Louis to its Source._ - - -From St. Louis to the mouth of the Missouri, on the east is a rich -sandy soil, timbered with buttonwood, ash, cottonwood, hackberry, etc. -The west side is highlands for a short distance above the town; then -it is bordered by a small prairie, after which is bottom-land, with -the same timber as on the east. The current is rapid, and the -navigation in low water obstructed by sand-bars. - -Immediately on the peninsula formed by the confluence of the -Mississippi and Missouri rivers is a small Kickapoo settlement, -occupied in summer only. On the west shore is a rich prairie, with -small skirts of woods; and on the east shore is generally high hills, -from 80 to 100 feet, extending to the mouth of the Illinois. The -current of the Mississippi, above the entrance of the Missouri, is -quite mild until you arrive at the mouth of the Illinois; where, -owing to the large sand-bars and many islands, it is extremely rapid. - -The Illinois River is about 450 yards wide at its mouth, and bears -from the Mississippi N. 75° W. The current appears not to exceed 2½ -miles per hour. The navigation and connecting streams of this river -are too well known to require a description at the present day. From -the Illinois to Buffalo river the E. shore is hills, but of easy -ascent. On the W. is continued the prairie, but not always bordering -on the river. The timber on both sides is generally hackberry, -cottonwood, and ash. Buffalo [Cuivre] river comes in on the W. shore, -and appears to be about 100 yards wide at its mouth; it bears from the -Mississippi S. 30° W. From the Illinois to this river the navigation -is by no means difficult, and the current mild. - -Thence to Salt or Oahahah river, the east shore is either immediately -bounded by beautiful cedar cliffs, or the ridges may be seen at a -distance. On the W. shore there is a rich low soil, and two small -rivers which increase the waters of the Mississippi. The first -[Buffalo creek] called Bar river, about 20 yards in width. The second -[now Noir[VII-3] or Bear creek] is about 15 yards. Salt river bears from -the Mississippi N. 75° W., and is about 100 or 120 yards wide at its -entrance, and when I passed appeared to be perfectly mild, with -scarcely any current. About one day's sail up the river there are salt -springs, which have been worked for four years; but I am not informed -as to their qualities or productions. In this distance the navigation -of the Mississippi is very much obstructed by bars and islands; indeed -to such a degree as to render it in many places difficult to find the -proper channel. The shores are generally a sandy soil, timbered with -sugar-maple, ash, pecan, locust, and black walnut. The E. side has -generally the preference as to situations for buildings. - -From this to the river Jaustioni [Jauflione, Jeffrion, or North Two -Rivers: see note 14, pp. 10, 11], which is our boundary between the -Sac nation and the United States on the west side of the Mississippi, -we have hills on the W. shore, and lowlands on the E., the latter of -which is timbered with hickory, oak, ash, maple, pecan, etc.; the -former the same, with an increase of oak. The E. is a rich sandy -soil, and has many very eligible situations for cultivation. About -seven miles below the Jaustioni a Frenchman is settled on the W. -shore. He is married to a woman of the Sac nation, and lives by a -little cultivation and the Indian trade. The [North] river before -mentioned is about 30 yards wide at its mouth, and bears from the -Mississippi about S. W. In this part of the river the navigation is -good. - -From this to the Wyaconda river [at La Grange, Lewis Co., Mo.] the -navigation is easy, with very few impediments; and the soil on both -sides pretty good. This river pays its tribute to the Mississippi by a -mouth 100 yards wide, and bears from the latter nearly due W. Just -below its entrance is [Durgan's creek] a small stream 15 yards wide, -which discharges into the Mississippi. Between this river and the -River de Moyen [Des Moines] there is one small [Fox] river emptying -into the Mississippi on the W., about 55 yards in width, and bearing -S. by W. The first part of the distance is obstructed by islands, and -the river expands to a great width, so as to render the navigation -extremely difficult; but the latter part affords more water and is -less difficult. The timber is principally oak and pecan; the soil as -on the river below. For a description of de Moyen, see the chart -herewith; and for that of the rapids [near Keokuk] see my diary of -Aug. 20th. - -Above the rapid de Moyen, on the W. bank of the Mississippi [at -Montrose, Lee Co., Ia.], is situated the first Sac village, consisting -of 13 lodges; and immediately opposite is the establishment of Mr. -Ewing,[VII-4] the American agent at that place. Whence to a large -prairie on the E. side, on which [and on Henderson river] is situated -the second Sac village; the E. side of the river is beautiful land, -principally prairie. The W. is in some part highland; both sides are -timbered with oak, ash, etc. The navigation is by no means difficult. - -Thence to the Iowa river the navigation is much obstructed with -islands. In ascending Iowa river 36 miles you come to a fork, the -right branch of which is called Red Cedar river, from the quantity of -that wood on its banks; this is navigable for batteaux nearly 300 -miles, where it branches out into three forks, called the Turkey's -foot. Those forks shortly after lose themselves in Rice lakes. - -The Iowa river bears from the Mississippi S. W. and is 150 yards wide -at its mouth. The E. shore of the Mississippi is high prairie, with -yellow clay banks, and in some places red sand. On the W. is prairie -also, but bounded on the shore by skirts of woods. About 10 miles up -the Iowa river, on its right bank, is a village of the Iowas. - -From this place to Rock river we generally had beautiful prairies on -the W., but in some places very rich land, with black walnut and -hickory timber. Stony [Rock] river is a large river which takes its -source near Green bay of Lake Michigan more than 450 miles from its -mouth, and is navigable upward of 300 miles; it empties into the -Mississippi on the E. shore, and is about 300 yards wide at its mouth. -It bears from the Mississippi almost due E. About three miles up this -river, on the S. bank [Milan, Rock Island Co., Ill.], is situated the -third town of the Sac nation, which, I was informed by Mr. James Aird, -was burned in the year 1781 or 1782, by about 300 Americans, although -the Indians had assembled 700 warriors to give them battle. For a -description of the rapids of Stony river, see my diary of Aug. 28th. - -Between Iowa river and Turkey river, on the W., you find Wabisipinekan -river. It coasts along Red Cedar river in a parallel direction, with -scarcely any wood on its banks. The next water is the Great Macoketh, -and 20 leagues higher is the little river of the same name. These two -rivers appear to approach each other, and have nothing remarkable -excepting lead mines, which are said to be in their banks. - -A little above the rapids of Rock river, on the W. side of the -Mississippi, is situated the first Reynard village; it consists of -about 18 lodges [Le Claire, Scott Co., Ia.]. From this place to the -lead mines [Dubuque, Ia.] the Mississippi evidently becomes narrower; -but the navigation is thereby rendered much less difficult. The shores -are generally prairie, which, if not immediately bordering on the -river, can be seen through the skirts of forests which border the -river. The timber is generally maple, birch, and oak, and the soil -very excellent. To this place we had seen only a few turkeys and deer, -the latter of which are pretty numerous from the river de Moyen up. -For a description of the lead mines, see my report from the prairie -des Chiens of Sept. 5th.[VII-5] - -From the lead mines unto Turkey river the Mississippi continues about -the same width; and the banks, soil, and productions are entirely -similar. Turkey river empties on the W., bears from the Mississippi -about S. W., and is about 100 yards wide at its mouth. Half a league -up this river, on the right bank, is the third village of the -Reynards, at which place they raise sufficient corn to supply all the -permanent and transient inhabitants of the Prairie des Chiens. Thence -to the Ouiscousing the high hills are perceptible on both sides, but -on the W. almost border the river the whole distance. The Ouiscousing -at its entrance is nearly half a mile wide, and bears from the -Mississippi nearly N. E. - -This river is the grand source of communication between the lakes and -the Mississippi, and the route by which all the traders of -Michilimackinac convey their goods for the trade of the Mississippi -from St. Louis to the river de Corbeau, and the confluent streams -which are in those boundaries. - - * * * * * - -The voyage from Michilimackinac to the Prairie des Chiens, by the -Ouiscousing and Fox rivers, is as follows:[VII-6] - - "The distance between Michilimackinac and the settlement at - the bottom of Green bay is calculated to be 80 leagues. On - leaving Michilimackinac there is a traverse of five miles - to Point St. Ignace [in Mackinac Co., Mich.], which is the - entrance into Lake Michigan. Four leagues from - Michilimackinac is an island of considerable extent, named - St. Helens [or Helena], which may be seen from that place - on a clear day. The shore [of Lake Michigan] from - Michilimackinac to Point du Chene [Pointe au Chêne, Oak - Point], which is a league distant from the island, is - rocky; and from this point to the island of Epouvette, - which is a very small one near the banks of the lake, is - high and covered with pine; the soil is very barren. From - this island to the river Mino Cockien [Milakokia] is five - leagues. Two small islands are on the way, and a river - where boats and canoes may take shelter from a storm. The - river Mino Cockien is large and deep, and takes its rise - near Lake Superior. From this to Shouchoir [Pointe Seul - Choix, in Schoolcraft Co., Mich.] is ten leagues. The shore - [along by Points Patterson, Scott, and Hughes] is - dangerous, from the number of shoals that extend a great - way into the lake. This rock [or point], called Shouchoir, - is an excellent harbor for canoes, but its entrance, when - the wind blows from the lake, is difficult; but when once - in, canoes and boats may lie during any storm without - unlading. A custom prevails here among the voyagers for - everyone to have his name carved on the rocks the first - time he passes, and pay something to the canoe-men. From - this to the river Manistique [Monistique, at Epsport, - Schoolcraft Co., Mich.] is five leagues. This is a large - river; the entrance is difficult, from a sand-bank at its - mouth, and the waves are very high when the wind blows from - the lake. At certain seasons sturgeon are found here in - great numbers. The banks of this river are high and sandy, - covered with pine. It takes its rise [in part] from a large - lake [of the same name], and nearly communicates with Lake - Superior. From this to the Detour [Pointe de Tour (Turning - Point), end of the peninsula in Delta Co., between Baie de - Noc and Lake Michigan] is 10 leagues [passing Point - Wiggins, Pointe au Barque, and Portage bay]. The shore is - rocky, flat, and dangerous. Here begins the Traverse, at - the mouth of Green bay. The first island is distant from - the mainland about a league, and is called the Isle au - Detour [now Big Summer island]; it is at least three - leagues in circumference. There are generally a few - Sauteaux lodges of Indians on this island during the summer - months. From this to Isle Brule [Gravelly island] is three - leagues. There are two small [Gull] islands from these to - Isle Verte [St. Martin's island], and it is two leagues to - Isle de Pou [Washington island], called so from the - Poutowatomies having once had a village here, now - abandoned. In the months of May and June there is a fishery - of trout [_Salmo (Cristivomer) namaycush_], and they are - taken in great quantities by trolling. There are also - whitefish [_Coregonus clupeiformis_] in vast numbers. The - ship channel is between this island and Isle Verte. Thence - to Petit D'Etroit [Détroit] to the mainland is three - leagues, where some lodges of Ottawas and Sauteaux raise - small quantities of corn; but their subsistence, during the - summer months, chiefly depends upon the quantities of - sturgeon [_Acipenser rubicundus_] and other fish, with - which the lake here abounds. From Petit D'Etroit [the - strait between Washington island and the mainland of Door - Co., Wis., in which are Detroit, Plum, and Pilot islands] - to the mainland is three leagues, and is called the Port de - Mort [Porte des Morts], from a number of Reynard canoes - having been wrecked at this place, where everyone perished. - The shore is bold and rocky [Hedgehog Harbor, Death's Door - Bluffs, Sister Bluffs, etc.]. From this it is four leagues - to the Isle Racro [Horseshoe island, in Eagle bay], which - is a safe harbor, inaccessible to all winds. From this to - Sturgeon bay is eight leagues. The shore is bold and rocky - [Eagle Bluff, Egg Harbor, etc.], and several large - [Chambers, Green, and the small Strawberry, and Hat] - islands lie a few miles distant. A few Sauteaux families - raise corn here and reside during the summer season. Trout - and sturgeon are here in great numbers. Sturgeon's bay is - two miles across and about four leagues in length, and - communicates by a portage [now a canal] with Lake Michigan, - near Michilimackinac. Distant from the lake about two - leagues is the Isle Vermillion [off Little Sturgeon bay]. - Here were a few years ago a number of Fols Avoin - inhabitants, who were accustomed to raise corn; but for - what reasons they have left this place I cannot learn. From - this is 13 leagues to the entrance of Fox river. On leaving - Isle Vermillion, the woods and general appearance of the - country begin to change, and have a very different aspect - from the more northern parts of this lake [_i. e._, Green - bay]. A small river called Riviere Rouge [Red river, and - town of same name, in Kewaunee Co.] falls into the lake - [Green bay], about halfway between Isle Vermillion and La - Baye [La Baie;[VII-7] location of Green Bay, seat of Brown - Co.]. On approaching La Baye, the water of the latter - [lake, _i. e._, Green bay] assumes a whiter appearance, and - becomes less deep. A channel which winds a good deal may be - found for vessels of 50 and 60 tons burden; loaded vessels - of these dimensions have gone up Fox river to the French - settlement [of La Baie, site of Depere], opposite which is - the Fols Avoin village [present site of Nicollet], which - consists of 10 or 12 bark lodges. A great number of - Sauteaux, and some Ottawas, come here in the spring and - fall. Three leagues from La Baye [present Green Bay] is a - small village [below present Little Kaukauna] of the same - nation; and there is another three leagues higher, at the - portage of Kakalin [Little Rapids[VII-8]]. This portage is a - mile long; the ground even and rocky. There is a fall of - about ten feet, which obstructs the navigation. For three - leagues higher are almost continual rapids, until the fall - of Grand Konimee [vicinity of present Kaukauna], about five - feet high. Above this, the river opens into a small lake, - at the end of which is a strong rapid, called Puant's rapid - [now Winnebago rapids], which issues from a lake of that - name [_i. e._, Lake Winnebago, in Winnebago Co.[VII-9]]. This - lake is 10 leagues long, and from two to three wide. At its - entrance [where are now Menasha and Neenah, Winnebago Co.] - is another Puant village, of about the same number of - lodges, and at this end is a small river, which, with the - interval of a few portages, communicates with Rock river - [of Wisconsin and Illinois]. About midway between the two - Puant villages is a Fols Avoin village, on the south - [-east] side of the lake [in Calumet Co.], of 50 or 60 men. - Five leagues from the entrance of the lake, on the north - [-west] side, Fox river falls in [at Oshkosh, Winnebago - Co.], and is about 200 yards wide. Ascending two leagues - higher, is a small Fols Avoin village, where is a lake [Lac - Butte des Morts] more than two leagues long; and about a - league above this lake the river de Loup [Wolf river, after - flowing through Poygan lake] joins Fox river near a hill - [and town] called the But de Mort [Butte des Morts], where - the Fox nation were nearly exterminated by the French and - Confederate Indians. The rivers and lakes are, at certain - seasons, full of wild rice. The country on the borders of - this [Fox] river is finely diversified with woods and - prairies. Any quantity of hay may be made, and it is as - fine a country for raising stock as any in the same - latitude through all America. From the But de Mort to the - Lac a Puckway[VII-10] is 28 leagues. Here is another Puant - village, of seven or eight large lodges. This lake is three - leagues long; four leagues above it Lac de Boeuff [Buffalo - lake] begins, which is also four leagues long; this is full - of wild rice, and has a great many fowl in their season. - From Lac de Boeuff to the forks [confluence of the Necha - river with Fox river], which is five leagues from the - portage of the Ouiscousing, and 10 leagues above the forks - [??], is a very small lake, called Lac Vaseux [Muddy lake], - so choked with wild rice as to render it almost impassable. - The [Fox] river, although very winding, becomes more and - more serpentine on approaching the portage, and narrows so - much as almost to prevent the use of oars. The length of - the portage to the Ouiscousing [river, at present town of - Portage, Columbia Co.] is two miles; but when the waters - are high, canoes and boats pass over loaded. Here the - waters at that time separate, one part going to the Gulf of - Mexico, and the other to that of St. Lawrence. In wet - seasons the portage road is very bad, the soil being of a - swampy nature. There is for nearly halfway a kind of - natural canal, which is sometimes used, and I think a canal - between the two rivers might be easily cut [Wis. Cent., and - C., M., and St. P. R. R. to Portage now]. The expense at - present attending the transport is one-third of a dollar - per cwt.; for a canoe $5 and a boat $8; this is not cash, - but in goods at the rate of 200 per cent. on the sterling. - There are at present two white men who have establishments - there; they are much incommoded by the Puants of Rock - river, who are troublesome visitors. The Ouiscousing is a - large river; its bottom sandy, full of islands and - sand-bars during the summer season. The navigation is - difficult even for canoes, owing to the lowness of the - water. From the portage to its confluence with the - Mississippi is 60 leagues [about 40 leagues--112 miles]. - The Saques and Reynards formerly lived on its banks, but - were driven off by the Sauteaux. They were accustomed to - raise a great deal of corn and beans, the soil being - excellent. Opposite the Detour de Pin, halfway from the - portage, on the south side, are lead mines, said to be the - best in any part of the country, and to be wrought with - great ease. Boats of more than four tons are improper for - the communication between the Mississippi and - Michilimackinac." (_[Colonel Robert] Dickson._) - -The present village of Prairie des Chiens was first settled in the -year 1783, and the first settlers were Mr. Giard, Mr. Antaya, and Mr. -Dubuque. The old village is about a mile below the present one, and -existed during the time the French were possessed of the country. It -derives its name from a family of Reynards who formerly lived there, -distinguished by the appellation of Dogs. The present village was -settled under the English government, and the ground was purchased -from the Reynard Indians. It is situated about one league above the -mouth of the Ouiscousing river. On the E. bank of the river there is a -small pond or marsh which runs parallel to the river in the rear of -the town, which, in front of the marsh, consists of 18 dwelling-houses, -in two streets; 16 in Front Street and two in First Street. In the -rear of the pond are eight dwelling-houses; part of the houses are -framed, and in place of weatherboarding there are small logs let into -mortises made in the uprights, joined close, daubed on the outside -with clay, and handsomely whitewashed within. The inside furniture of -their houses is decent and, indeed, in those of the most wealthy -displays a degree of elegance and taste. - -There are eight houses scattered round the country, at the distance of -one, two, three, and five miles: also, on the W. side of the -Mississippi [now Bloody Run, on which is N. McGregor, Clayton Co., -Ia.] three houses, situated on a small stream called Giards [or -Giard's] river, making, in the village and vicinity, 37 houses, which -it will not be too much to calculate at 10 persons each. The -population would thus be 370 souls; but this calculation will not -answer for the spring or autumn, as there are then, at least, 500 or -600 white persons. This is owing to the concourse of traders and their -engagees from Michilimackinac and other parts, who make this their -last stage previous to launching into the savage wilderness. They -again meet here in the spring, on their return from their -wintering-grounds, accompanied by 300 or 400 Indians, when they hold a -fair; the one disposes of remnants of goods, and the others reserved -peltries. It is astonishing that there are not more murders and -affrays at this place, where meets such an heterogeneous mass to -trade, the use of spirituous liquors being in no manner restricted; -but since the American has become known, such accidents are much less -frequent than formerly. The prairie on which the village is situated -is bounded in the rear by high bald hills. It is from one mile to -three-quarters of a mile from the river, and extends about eight miles -from the Mississippi, to where it strikes the Ouiscousing at the Petit -Grey, which bears from the village S. E. by E. - -If the marsh before spoken of were drained, which might be easily -done, I am of the opinion it would render healthy the situation of the -prairie, which now subjects its inhabitants to intermitting fevers in -the spring and autumn. - -There are a few gentlemen residing at the Prairie des Chiens, and many -others claiming that appellation; but the rivalship of the Indian -trade occasions them to be guilty of acts at their wintering-grounds -which they would blush to be thought guilty of in the civilized world. -They possess the spirit of generosity and hospitality in an eminent -degree, but this is the leading feature in the character of frontier -inhabitants. Their mode of living has obliged them to have transient -connection with the Indian women; and what was at first policy is now -so confirmed by habit and inclination that it is become the ruling -practice of the traders, with few exceptions; in fact, almost one-half -the inhabitants under 20 years have the blood of the aborigines in -their veins. - -From this village to Lake Pepin we have, on the W. shore [Iowa and -Minnesota], first Yellow river [present name; at its mouth Council -Hill, Allamakee Co., Ia.], of about 20 yards wide, bearing from the -Mississippi nearly due W.; second, the [Upper] Iowa river, about 100 -yards wide, bearing from the Mississippi about N. W.; third, the -Racine [Root] river, about 20 yards wide, bearing from the Mississippi -nearly W., and navigable for canoes 60 miles; fourth, the rivers -Embarra [Embarras, or Zumbro] and Lean Claire [l'Eau Claire, now White -Water or Minneiska], which join their waters just as they form a -confluence with the Mississippi, are about 60 yards wide, and bear -nearly S. W. - -On the E. shore [Wisconsin], in the same distance, is the river de la -Prairie la Cross [La Crosse river], which empties into the Mississippi -at the head of the prairie of that name. It is about 20 yards wide, -and bears N. N. W. We then meet with the Black [present name] river, a -very considerable stream about 200 yards wide at its mouth, on which -the traders frequently winter with the Puants and Fols Avoins. Next we -pass the river of the Montaigne qui Trompes dans l'Eau [Rivière de la -Montagne qui Trempe à l'Eau, now Trempealeau river], a small stream in -the rear of the hill of that name. Then we find the Riviere au Boeuff -[Buffalo river], about 30 yards wide, bearing N. by W. At the entrance -of Lake Pepin, on the E. shore, joins the Sauteaux [Chippewa] river, -which is at least half a mile wide, and appears to be a deep and -majestic stream. It bears from the Mississippi nearly due N. This -river is in size and course, for some distance up, scarcely to be -distinguished from the Ouiscousing; it has a communication with -Montreal river by a short portage, and by this river with Lake -Superior.[VII-11] The agents of the N. W. Company supply the Fols Avoin -Sauteaux who reside at the head of this river; and those of -Michilimackinac, the Sioux who hunt on its lower waters. - -In this division of the Mississippi the shores are more than -three-fourths prairie on both sides, or, more properly speaking, bald -hills which, instead of running parallel with the river, form a -continual succession of high perpendicular cliffs and low valleys; -they appear to head on the river, and to traverse the country in an -angular direction. Those hills and valleys give rise to some of the -most sublime and romantic views I ever saw. But this irregular scenery -is sometimes interrupted by a wide extended plain which brings to mind -the verdant lawn of civilized life, and would almost induce the -traveler to imagine himself in the center of a highly cultivated -plantation. The timber of this division is generally birch, elm, and -Cottonwood; all the cliffs being bordered by cedar. - -The navigation unto [Upper] Iowa river is good, but thence to the -Sauteaux river is very much obstructed by islands; in some places the -Mississippi is uncommonly wide, and divided into many small channels -which from the cliffs appear like so many distinct rivers, winding in -a parallel course through the same immense valley. But there are few -sand-bars in those narrow channels; the soil being rich, the water -cuts through it with facility. - -La Montaigne qui Trompe dans l'Eau stands in the Mississippi near the -E. shore, about 50 miles below the Sauteaux river, and is about two -miles in circumference, with an elevation of 200 feet, covered with -timber. There is a small [Trempealeau: see note 56, pp. 52-54] -river which empties into the Mississippi in the rear of the mountain, -which I conceive once bounded the mountain on the lower side, and the -Mississippi on the upper, when the mountain was joined to the main by -a neck of low prairie ground, which in time was worn away by the -spring freshets of the Mississippi, and thus formed an island of this -celebrated mountain. - -Lake Pepin, so called by the French, appears to be only an expansion -of the Mississippi. It commences at the entrance of the Sauteaux, and -bears N. 55° W. 12 miles to Point de Sable, which is a neck of land -making out about one mile into the lake from the W. shore, and is the -narrowest part of the lake. From here to the upper end the course is -nearly due W. about 10 miles, making its whole length 22 miles, and -from 4 to 1½ miles in width; the broadest part being in the bay below -Point de Sable. This is a beautiful place; the contrast of the -Mississippi full of islands, and the lake with not one in its whole -extent, gives more force to the grandeur of the scene. The French, -under the government of M. Frontenac, drove the Reynards or -Ottaquamies [Outagamas, etc.] from the Ouiscousing, pursued them up -the Mississippi, and, as a barrier, built a stockade [Fort -Beauharnois?] on Lake Pepin on the W. shore, just below Point de -Sable. As was generally the case with that nation, they blended the -military and mercantile professions, by making their fort a factory -for the Sioux. The lake, at the upper end, is three fathoms deep; but -this, I am informed, is its shoalest part. From [Upper] Iowa river to -the head of Lake Pepin, elk are the prevailing species of wild game, -with some deer, and a few bear. - -From the head of Lake Pepin for about 12 miles, to Cannon river, the -Mississippi is branched out into many channels, and its bosom covered -with numerous islands. There is a hill on the W. shore [at Red Wing], -about six miles above the lake, called the Grange [la Grange, the -Barn], from the summit of which you have one of the most delightful -prospects in nature. When turning your face to the E. you have the -river winding in three [South, Middle, and North] channels at your -feet; on your right the extensive bosom of the lake, bounded by its -chain of hills; in front, over the Mississippi, a wide extended -prairie; on the left the valley of the Mississippi, open to view quite -to the St. Croix; and partly in your rear, the valley through which -passes Riviere au Canon. When I viewed it, on one of the islands below -appeared the spotted lodges of Red Wing's band of Sioux. The white -tents of the traders and my soldiers, and three flags of the United -States waving on the water, gave a contrast to the still and lifeless -wilderness around and increased the pleasure of the prospect. - -From Cannon river to the St. Croix, the Mississippi evidently becomes -narrower, and the navigation less obstructed by islands. St. Croix -river joins the Mississippi on the E., and bears from the latter -almost due N. It is only 80 yards wide at its mouth, but 500 yards up -commences [Lower] Lake St. Croix, which is from 1½ to 3 miles wide, -and 36 long. This river communicates with Lake Superior by the Burnt -river, by a portage of half a mile only, and in its whole extent has -not one fall or rapid worthy of notice.[VII-12] This, with the mildness -of its current, and its other advantages, render it by far the most -preferable communication which can be had with the N. W. from this -part of our territories. Its upper waters are inhabited by the Fols -Avoins and Sauteaux, who are supplied by the agents of the North West -Company; and its lower division, by the Sioux and their traders. - -The Mississippi from Cannon river is bounded on the E. by high ridges, -but the left is low ground. The timber is generally ash and maple, -except the cedar of the cliffs. From the St. Croix to the St. Peters -the Mississippi is collected into a narrow compass; I crossed it at -one place with 40 strokes of my oars,[VII-13] and the navigation is very -good. The E. bank is generally bounded by the river ridges, but the W. -sometimes by timbered bottom or prairie. The timber is generally -maple, sugar-tree, and ash. About 20 miles below the entrance of the -St. Peters, on the E. shore, at a place called the Grand Morais -[Marais, Big Marsh, now Pig's Eye marsh or lake], is situated Petit -Corbeau's village of 11 log houses. For a description of the St. -Peters see the chart herewith. - -From the St. Peters to the Falls of St. Anthony the river is -contracted between high hills, and is one continual rapid or fall, the -bottom being covered with rocks which in low water are some feet -above the surface, leaving narrow channels between them. The rapidity -of the current is likewise much augmented by the numerous small, rocky -islands which obstruct the navigation. The shores have many large and -beautiful springs issuing forth, which form small cascades as they -tumble over the cliffs into the Mississippi. The timber is generally -maple. This place we noted for the great quantity of wild fowl. - -As I ascended the Mississippi, the Falls of St. Anthony did not strike -me with that majestic appearance which I had been taught to expect -from the descriptions of former travelers. On an actual survey I find -the portage to be 260 poles; but when the river is not very low, boats -ascending may be put in 31 poles below, at a large cedar tree; this -would reduce it to 229 poles. The hill over which the portage is made -is 69 feet in ascent, with an elevation at the point of debarkation of -45°. The fall of the water between the place of debarkation and -reloading is 58 feet; the perpendicular fall of the shoot is 16½ feet. -The width of the river above the shoot is 627 yards; below, 209. For -the form of the shoot, see a rough draught herewith.[VII-14] In high -water the appearance is much more sublime, as the great quantity of -water then forms a spray, which in clear weather reflects from some -positions the colors of the rainbow, and when the sky is overcast -covers the falls in gloom and chaotic majesty. - -From the Falls of St. Anthony to Rum river, the Mississippi is almost -one continual chain of rapids, with the eddies formed by winding -channels. Both sides are prairie, with scarcely any timber but small -groves of scrub oak. Rum river is about 50 yards wide at its mouth, -and takes its source in Le Mille Lac,[VII-15] which is but 35 miles S. of -Lower Red Cedar Lake. The small Indian canoes ascend this river quite -to the lake, which is considered as one of the best fur -hunting-grounds for some hundreds of miles, and has been long a scene -of rencounters between the hunting-parties of the Sioux and Sauteaux. -Last winter a number of Fols Avoins and Sioux, and some Sauteaux -wintered in that quarter. From Rum river to Leaf river, called [not] -by Father Hennipin and [but by] Carver the river St. Francis,[VII-16] and -which was the extent of their travels, the prairies continue with few -interruptions. The timber is scrub-oak, with now and then a lonely -pine. Previous to your arrival at Leaf river, you pass Crow [Carver's -Goose] river on the W., about 30 yards wide, which bears from the -Mississippi S. W. Leaf river is only a small stream of not more than -15 yards over, and bears N. by W. - -The elk begin to be very plenty; there are also some buffalo, -quantities of deer, raccoons, and on the prairie a few of the animals -called by the French brelaws [blaireaux, badgers]. - -Thence to Sac [or Sauk] river, a little above the Grand Rapids [Sauk -Rapids, St. Cloud, etc.], both sides of the river are generally -prairie, with skirts of scrub-oak. The navigation is still obstructed -with ripples, but with some intermissions of a few miles. - -At the Grand Rapids the river expands to about ¾ of a mile in width, -its general width not being more than {~VULGAR FRACTION THREE FIFTHS~} of a mile, and tumbles over -an unequal bed of rocks for about two miles, through which there -cannot be said to be any channel; for, notwithstanding the rapidity of -the current, one of my invalids who was on the W. shore waded to the -E., where we were encamped. The E. bank of these rapids is a very high -prairie; the W. scrubby wood-land. The Sac river is a considerable -stream, which comes in on the W. and bears about S. W., and is 200 -yards wide at its mouth. - -The quantity of game increases from Sac river to Pine creek [now Swan -river], the place where I built my stockade and left part of my party; -the borders are prairie, with groves of pine on the edge of the bank; -but there are some exceptions, where you meet with small bottoms of -oak, ash, maple, and lynn [linden, basswood or whitewood, _Tilia -americana_--bois blanc of the voyageurs]. - -In this distance there is an intermission of rapids for about 40 -miles, when they commence again, and are fully as difficult as ever. -There are three small creeks[VII-17] emptying on the W. scarcely worthy -of notice, and on the E. are two small rivers called Lake and Clear -Rivers; the former, quite a small one [now called Little Rock], bears -N. W., and is about 15 yards wide at its mouth; about three miles from -its entrance is a beautiful small [Little Rock] lake, around which -resort immense herds of elk and buffalo. Clear river [now called -Platte river] is a beautiful little stream of about 80 yards in width, -which heads in some swamps and small lakes [Platte, Ogechie, etc.] on -which the Sauteaux of Lower Red Cedar Lake and Sandy Lake frequently -come to hunt. The soil of the prairies from above the falls is sandy, -but would raise small grain in abundance; the bottoms are rich, and -fit for corn or hemp. - -Pine creek [now Swan river] is a small stream which comes in on the W. -shore, and bears nearly W. It is bordered by large groves of white and -red pine. - -From Pine creek to the Isle De Corbeau, or river of that name [now -called Crow Wing], two small rivers come in on the W. shore. The first -[now Pike creek] is of little consequence; but the second, called Elk -[or as now Little Elk] river, is entitled to more consideration, from -its communication with the river St. Peters. They first ascend it to a -small lake, cross this, then ascend a small stream [Long Prairie -river, a branch of Crow Wing river] to a large [Osakis] lake; from -which they make a portage of four miles W. and fall into the Sauteaux -[or Chippewa[VII-18]] river, which they descend into the river St. -Peters. On the E. side is one small stream [Nokasippi river], which -heads toward Lower Red Cedar Lake, and is bounded by hills. - -The whole of this distance is remarkably difficult to navigate, being -one continued succession of rapid shoals and falls; but there is one -[fall which] deserves to be more particularly noticed, viz.: The place -called by the French Le Shute de la Roche Peinture [La Chute de la -Roche Peinte, Rapids of the Painted Rock, now Little falls], which is -certainly the third obstacle in point of navigation which I met with -in my whole route. The shore, where there is not prairie, is a -continued succession of pine ridges. The entrance of the river De -Corbeau is partly hid by the island of that name, and discharges its -waters into the Mississippi above and below it; the lowest channel -bearing from the Mississippi N. 65° W., the upper due W. This, in my -opinion, should be termed the Forks of the Mississippi, it being -nearly of equal magnitude, and heading not far from the same source, -although taking a much more direct course to their junction. It may be -observed on the chart that, from St. Louis to this place, the course -of the river has generally been N. to W. and that from here it bears -N. E. - -This river affords the best and most approved communication with the -Red river; and the navigation is as follows: You ascend the river De -Corbeau 180 miles, to the entrance of the river Des Feuilles [now Leaf -river], which comes from the N. W. This you ascend 180 miles also; -then make a portage of half a mile into Otter Tail Lake,[VII-19] which -is a principal source of Red river. The other [Long Prairie] branch of -the river De Corbeau bears S. W. and approximates with the St. Peters. -The whole of this river is rapid, and by no means affording so much -water as the Mississippi. Their confluence is in latitude 45° 49' 50" -N. In this division the elk, deer, and buffalo were probably in -greater quantities than in any other part of my whole voyage. - -Thence to Pine river [present name: not to be confounded with Pike's -Pine creek, now Swan river] the Mississippi continues to become -narrower, and has but few islands. In this distance I discovered but -one rapid, which the force of the frost had not entirely covered with -ice. The shores in general presented a dreary prospect of high barren -nobs, covered with dead and fallen pine timber. To this there were -some exceptions of ridges of yellow and pitch-pine; also some small -bottoms of lynn, elm, oak, and ash. The adjacent country is at least -two-thirds covered with small lakes, some of which are three miles in -circumference. This renders communication impossible in summer, except -with small bark canoes. - -In this distance we first met with a species of pine [fir] called the -sap pine [French sapin, balsam-fir, _Abies balsamea_]. It was equally -unknown to myself and all my party. It scarcely ever exceeds the -height of 35 feet, and is very full of projecting branches. The leaves -are similar to other pines, but project out from the branches on each -side in a direct line, thereby rendering the branch flat. This -formation occasions the natives and voyagers to give it the preference -on all occasions to the branches of all other trees for their beds, -and to cover their temporary camps; but its greatest virtue arises -from its medicinal qualities. The rind is smooth, with the exception -of little protuberances of about the size of a hazel-nut; the top of -which being cut, you squeeze out a glutinous substance of the -consistence of honey. This gum or sap gives name to the tree, and is -used by the natives and traders of that country as a balsam for all -wounds made by sharp instruments, or for parts frozen, and almost all -other external injuries which they receive. My poor fellows -experienced its beneficial qualities by the application made of it to -their frozen extremities in various instances. - -Pine river bears from the Mississippi N. 30° E., although it empties -on that which has been hitherto termed the W. shore. It is 80 yards -wide at its mouth, and has an island immediately at the entrance. It -communicates with Lake Le Sang Sue [Leech lake] by the following -course of navigation: In one day's sail from the confluence, you -arrive at the first part of White Fish Lake [present name], which is -about six miles long and two wide. Thence you pursue the river about -two miles, and come to the second White Fish Lake, which is about -three miles long and one wide; then you have the river three miles to -the third lake, which is seven miles long and two in width. This I -crossed on my return from the head of the Mississippi on the [20th] of -February; it is in 46° 32' 32" N. lat. Thence you follow the river a -quarter of a mile to the fourth lake, which is a circular one of about -five miles in circumference. Thence you pursue the river one day's -sail to a small lake; thence two days' sail to a portage, which -conveys you to another lake; whence, by small portages from lake to -lake, you make the voyage to Leech Lake. The whole of this course lies -through ridges of pines or swamps of pinenet [épinette[VII-20]], sap -pine, hemlock, etc. From the river De Corbeau to this place the deer -are very plenty, but we found no buffalo or elk. - -From this spot to [Lower] Red Cedar Lake, the pine ridges are -interrupted by large bottoms of elm, ash, oak, and maple, the soil of -which would be very proper for cultivation. From the appearance of the -ice, which was firm and equal, I conceive there can be but one ripple -in this distance. [Lower] Red Cedar lake lies on the E. side of the -Mississippi, at the distance of six miles from it, and is near equally -distant from the river De Corbeau and Lake De Sable [Sandy lake]. Its -form is an oblong square, and may be 10 miles in circumference. From -this to Lake De Sable, on the E. shore, you meet with Muddy [now Rice] -river, which discharges itself into the Mississippi by a mouth 20 -yards wide, and bears nearly N. E. We then meet with Pike [now Willow: -see note 49, p. 127] river, on the W., about 77 [air-line about 15] -miles below Sandy lake, bearing nearly due N.; up which you ascend -with canoes four days' sail, and arrive at a Wild Rice lake, which you -pass through and enter a small stream, and ascend it two leagues; then -cross a portage of two acres into a [Big Rice] lake seven leagues in -circumference; then two leagues of a [Kwiwisens or Little Boy] river -into another small lake. Thence you descend the current N. E. into -Leech lake. The banks of the Mississippi are still bordered by pines -of different species, except a few small bottoms of elm, lynn, and -maple. The game is scarce, and the aborigines subsist almost entirely -on the beaver, with a few moose, and wild rice or oats. - -Sandy Lake River, the discharge of said lake, is large, but only six -[about two] miles in length from the lake to its confluence with the -Mississippi. Lake De Sable is about 25 miles in circumference, and has -a number of small rivers running into it. One of those is entitled to -particular attention: the Savanna, which by a portage of 3¾ miles -communicates with the river [Fond Du Lac or] St. Louis, which empties -into Lake Superior at Fond Du Lac, and is the channel by which the N. -W. Company bring all their goods for the trade of the Upper -Mississippi. Game is very scarce in this country. - -In ascending the Mississippi from Sandy Lake, you first meet with the -Swan river [still so called: not to be confounded with the other of -the same present name] on the east, which bears nearly due E., and is -navigable for bark canoes for 90 miles to Swan Lake. You then meet -with the Meadow [or Prairie] River, which falls in on the E., bears -nearly E. by N., and is navigable for Indian canoes 100 miles. You -then in ascending meet with a very strong ripple [Grand rapids], and -an expansion of the river where it forms a small lake. This is three -miles below the Falls of Packegamau [Pokegama], and from which the -noise of that shoot might be heard. The course of the river is N. 70° -W.; just below, the river is a quarter of a mile in width, but above -the shoot not more than 20 yards. The water thus collected runs down a -flat rock, which has an elevation of about 30 degrees. Immediately -above the fall is a small island of about 50 yards in circumference, -covered with sap pine. The portage, which is on the E. (or N.) side, -is no more than 200 yards, and by no means difficult. Those falls, in -point of consideration as an impediment to the navigation, stand next -to the Falls of St. Anthony, from the source of the river to the Gulf -of Mexico. The banks of the river to Meadow river have generally -either been timbered by pine, pinenett [épinette], hemlock, sap pine -[sapin or balsam-fir], or aspen tree. Thence it winds through high -grass meadows or savannas, with pine swamps appearing at a distance to -cast a deeper gloom on the borders. From the falls in ascending, you -pass Lake Packegamau on the W., celebrated for its great production of -wild rice; and next meet with Deer river [present name] on the E., -the extent of its navigation unknown. You next meet with the Riviere -Le Crosse[VII-21] [Rivière à la Crosse] on the E. side, which bears -nearly N., and has only a portage of one mile to pass from it into the -Lake Winipeque Branch of the Mississippi [through Little Lake -Winnibigoshish]. - -We next come to what the people of that quarter call the forks of the -Mississippi, the right fork of which bears N. W., and runs eight -leagues to Lake Winipeque [Winnibigoshish[VII-22]], which is of an oval -form, and about 36 miles in circumference. From Lake Winipeque the -river continues five leagues to Upper Red Cedar [now Cass] Lake, which -may be termed the Upper Source of the Mississippi. The [other fork or] -Leech Lake Branch bears from the forks S. W., and runs through a chain -of meadows. You pass Muddy [or Mud] lake, which is scarcely anything -more than an extensive marsh of 15 miles in circumference; the river -bears through it nearly N., after which it again turns W. In many -places this branch is not more than 10 or 15 yards in width, although -15 or 20 feet deep. From this to Leech Lake the communication -[through Leech Lake river] is direct and without any impediment. This -is rather considered as the main source, although the Winipeque Branch -is navigable the greatest distance. - -To this place the whole face of the country has an appearance of an -impenetrable morass or boundless savanna. But on the borders of the -lake is some oak, with large groves of sugar-maple, from which the -traders make sufficient sugar for their consumption the whole year. -Leech Lake communicates with the river De Corbeau by seven portages, -and with the river Des Feuilles; also, with the Red river, by the Otter -Tail Lake on the one side, and by [Upper] Red Cedar Lake and other -small lakes to Red Lake on the other. Out of these small lakes and -ridges rise the upper waters of the St. Lawrence, Mississippi,[VII-23] -and Red river, the latter of which discharges itself into the ocean -by Lake Winipie, Nelson's River, and Hudson's Bay. All those waters -have their upper sources within 100 miles of each other, which I -think plainly proves this to be the most elevated part of the N. E. -continent of America. But we must cross what is commonly termed the -Rocky Mountains, or a Spur of the Cordeliers [Cordilleras], previous -to our finding the waters whose currents run westward and pay tribute -to the western ocean. - -In this quarter we find moose, a very few deer and bear, but a -vast variety of fur animals of all descriptions. - -FOOTNOTES: - -[VII-1] This article, for which I make a new chapter with a major head, -was in the orig. ed. _a part_ of Doc. No. 18 of the Appendix to Pt. 1, -running from p. 41 to p. 56; the remainder of the document--continuing -without break to p. 66, and including also a folding table--being an -account of the Indians. I make a separate chapter for this -ethnographic matter, beyond. I retain as a minor heading of the -present chapter Pike's original title of No. 18, nearly in his words; -but must cut it down to exclude "the savages," and in so doing I also -reduce its verbiage a little. As thus restricted, this article is a -rapid review or cursory description of the Mississippi, in so far as -Pike ascended and descended this river. Having already given a copious -commentary in my notes on his itinerary, I must refer the reader back -to these for most details; here I simply bracket a few names in the -text for the purpose of ready recognition, and restrict my notes to -new matters which come up. - -[VII-2] The form of the word _Mississippi_ was not fixed with eleven -letters till after 1800. President Jefferson, a scholar of his times -and especially interested in linguistics, used nine or ten letters. -Our fashion of doubling all the consonants except the first is -distinctly an innovation which has no advantage over _Misisipi_, but -on the contrary the undesirable effect of obscuring the pronunciation -of the Algonquian elements by neutralizing the vowels. Analysis of the -eleven letters shows three consonantal sounds, one of them repeated, -and each of these four followed by a short if not neutral vowel: -_Mi-si-si-pi_. The initial _m_ is a nasolabial, not likely to vary, -and in fact constant. This is followed by a sibilant surd, repeated, -with probable and actual variation to _s_ of _c_ or _ch_ in one or -both places. The final consonant _p_ is a labial surd, easily and -actually variant to its sonant _b_. The name is really a term of two -words: Misi Sipi=Misi River--whatever Misi may mean. Waiving this, and -taking the name as one word, the _actual_ variations which I have -noted from time to time may be thus displayed as regards the eleven -letters: (1) _M_, constant; (2) _i_, variant to _a_ and _e_; (3) first -_s_, var. to _c_, or missing; (4) second _s_, var. to _c_ and _ch_, or -missing; (5) second _i_, nearly constant, when present; (6) third _s_, -var. to _c_, not to _ch_, when present; (7) fourth _s_, same as third -_s_; (8) third _i_, var. to _e_ and _y_; (9) first _p_, var. to _b_; -(10) second _p_, constant, if not dropped after the third _p_, never -present if the third _p_ becomes _b_; (11) final _i_, var. to _e_ and -_y_. The permutations possible under the several variants indicated -may be ciphered out by those who have leisure for amusement; probably -not one-tenth of the possibilities are actualities in print; and of -those actually existent probably no complete list has ever been made. -We might expect to find 30 forms without much trouble. Some of the -examples I have noted are: _Mischipi_, Freytas, from Spanish Relations -of 1661, pub. 1663, perhaps the first appearance of the word in print; -_Messipi_, Allouez, in French Relations of 1667, said to be the -original form in that language; _Mississipy_, 1671; _Messisipi_, -Joliet, after 1673; _Micissypy_, Perrot; _Masciccipi_, La Salle, qu. -misprint in first syllable? _Meschasipi_ and other forms in Hennepin, -1683, and his editors; _Messchsipi_ on an old map, about 1688; _Michi -Sepe_, Labal, as cited by Brower; _Mechesebe_, etc. The general -evolution of the present word has been: early elimination of _c_ or -_ch_; tendency of all the vowels to _i_, with _e_ in the first place -and _y_ in the last place longest persistent; and then the doubling of -the _s_'s and the _p_, all the possible cases of this process being -not only extant, but neither very old nor very rare. The unconscious -_motif_ here seems to have been to give the longest river the longest -name. There are many other names of the "Mycycypy" river, aboriginal, -Spanish, and French, for the whole or certain parts of its course. -Spanish relations from De Soto yield for lower parts of the river -_Chucagua_ in variant forms; _Tamalisieu_; _Tapatui_; and _Mico_. -Also, for about the mouth, we have _Malabanchia_ or _Malabouchia_, -from French narration, D'Iberville, Mar. 2d, 1699. An Iroquois name, -_Gastacha_, is cited. Spanish relations yield several of the earliest -names, all of which have been translated; _e. g._, _El Rio_, The -River, Knight of Elvas, pub. 1557; _Rio Grande_, Grand r., Great r., -ref. to Hernando de Soto, near Quizquiz, Sunday, May 8th, 1541, and at -Guachoya, Apr. 17th, 1542; _Rio del Espiritu Santo_, as De Biedma, -River of the Holy Ghost, with variant spellings of the phrase, _cf._ -Chavez map, in Ortelius, Antwerp, 1580, and Cortés map for Spanish -Charles V., 1520; _Rio de las Palmas_, River of Palms, Admiral map, -1507, pub. in ed. Ptolemy, 1513 (I cite these two without prejudice to -the question whether they did actually apply or were only supposed to -apply to the Mississippi); _Rio de los Palisados_ (as I find it cited, -though it seems to me _R. de las Palizadas_ would be better Spanish -for Palisade r., the connotation of this term being what a steamboat -man would mean if he said Snag or Sawyer r.); and _Rio Escondido_, -Hidden r., because it was hard to find the right channel through the -delta. Certain genuflexions of French knees to powers that were and -happily be no longer, are reflected in the names _Rivière de la -Conception_, _sc._ of the B. V. M., which Marquette conceived in one -of the unisexual transports of his morbid imagination, June 15th or -17th, 1673, trans. Immaculate Conception r.; _R. de Buade_, _sc._ -Frontenac r., as Joliet, who had an eye to a visible patron; _R. de -Colbert_, as Hennepin, who kept one eye on St. Anthony and the other -on King Louis; _R. de Louis_, _R. de St. Louis_, _R. de Louisiane_ of -various F. relations (_St. Louis_ occurring in letters patent of Louis -XIV. to Crozat, Sept. 14th, 1712); from descriptive phrases which are -found in Radisson's relations, Forked r. and River That Divides Itself -in Two have been evolved as names with the aid of capitals; the upper -section of the stream, flowing from Lake Itasca, has been called _R. à -la Biche_, Elk r., from the former F. name Lac à la Biche, translating -Ojibwa Omoshkos Sogiagon; the next section, _Bemidji-sibi_, with many -variants of this, in Ojibwa, French, Italian, and English; the next -section, _R. aux Cèdres Rouges_, Red Cedar r., Cassina r., Cass r.; -next section, _Winnibigoshish r._, in many variants; and below the -confluence of the Leech Lake fork, _Kitchi-sibi_, Great r. There are -also several forms of the Sioux name, to the same effect as -Kitchi-sibi. I am ignorant of any English name originally given as a -genuine appellation, and not a translation or mere epithet, like -"Father of Waters," and the like. It is text-book tradition that this -phrase translates the Algonquian term; which tradition is too untrue -and too popular to ever die--let it rest in peace, along with -Washington's hatchet and Tell's apple. It is Featherstonhaugh, I think -(I have mislaid the mem. I once made), who remarks with great gravity -and great truth, that "Father of Waters" is a misnomer, because the -river resulting from the confluence of other rivers is the Son of -Waters and not the father of them at all. This is a sober sort of -statement, for a witticism; it is not a figurative locution or a -flight of fancy; it is a solemn fact. It only stops short of the most -comprehensive statement that can be made regarding the origin of -rivers, which is, that all rivers arise in cloudland. - -[VII-3] See note 12, p. 7, and add: I suspect that _Noir_ is not the -F. adj. which means "black," but a perversion of the noun _Noix_, -_Noyau_, or _Noyer_, meaning "nut" or "walnut." Beck's Gazetteer, -1823, gives the name as Noyer cr. - -[VII-4] An opinion of Mr. Ewing occupies note 18, p. 15. A hitherto -unpublished letter of General William Clark, Indian Agent for -Louisiana, to the Secretary at War, is in part as follows: - - "Saint Louis 22nd. June 1807. - -"Sir - -"... William Ewing's Account for provisions, hired men and Squars -[squaws] appears to be unatherized by any person in this Country. M^r. -G. Chouteau informs me that he never empowered him under any authority -which he possessed to incur such expences to the U : States as [are] -charged in his account.--And further says that he has always given -such provisions and other articles to M^r. Ewing as he thought the -Public Service required, for which he either paid himself or included -in the account of Rations settled with the Contractor.--The public -clammer [clamor] at this place is very much against M^r. Ewing; many -unfavourable relation has been made of his conduct, such as -purchaseing the Indians Guns for whisky and selling them again to the -Indians for a high price.--Selling his corn to the Traders for -trinkets for his Squar, hireing men on the behalf of the United States -and sending them to work for his private benefit, makeing an incorrect -report to me, &^c. &^c. I am induced to believe from the report of -M^r. Bolvar [Nicholas Boilvin] and others who are willing to sweare -that M^r. W^m. Ewing has behaved incorrectly and his example is -degrading to the institution, and calculate to give the Indians an -unfavourable impression of the public Agents in this Country. The -Conduct of public Agents in this distant quarter, I fear will never be -under sufficent check until there is a person to whome all are obliged -to account resideing in this Country, with full power and descretion -to inspect their actions &^c. &^c. - -"A copy of Mr. Ewings report is inclosed in which he states the -situation of his establishment and his prospects &^c.... - - "Your most Obedent - "Humble Servent, - [Signed] "W^M. CLARK. I. A. L." - -[VII-5] Being letter to General Wilkinson, from that place at that date, -which formed Doc. No. 2, p. 2, of the App. to Pt. 1 of the orig. ed. -See Art. 2, p. 223. The lead mines are of course identifiable with the -location of Dubuque; but the precise situation of Julien Dubuque's -house, where Pike stopped both ways, was Catfish cr., about 2 m. -below. Mr. Dubuque died Mar. 24th, 1810, aged 45½ years, and was -buried on the eminence close by, which became known as Dubuque's -bluff, and still bears this name. The peculiar character of his claim -to the property occasioned much litigation, which was carried up to -the Supreme Court of the U. S., and there decided in favor of the -settlers, in or about 1853. - -[VII-6] This description makes in the orig. ed. a 3-page footnote, which -I reset in the main text, as no confusion will come from this obvious -digression, the reader returning to Prairie du Chien in due course. It -was furnished to Pike by (Robert) Dickson, whose name appears at the -end. In spite of the mangling of the geographical names, and one or -two sentences that seem to have got awry, it is a very telling piece -of work--perhaps the most concise and correct statement extant in 1810 -of what is one of the most memorable routes in the annals of American -exploration. It was by this famous Fox-Wisconsin traverse from the -Great Lakes to the Miss. r. that the latter was itself discovered to -Europeans. For it is practically if not identically the route of -Joliet and Marquette, 1673. Under the Canadian governorship of Comte -Louis de Buade de Frontenac, who succeeded De Courcelle Apr. 9th, -1672, the Quebec trader Joliet, the priest Marquette, and five other -Frenchmen, who were at Michilimackinac in Dec., 1672, passed thence by -Green bay of Lake Michigan, Fox r., Lake Winnebago and Wis. r., to -Miss. r. at Prairie du Chien, reached June 15th or 17th, 1673, and -named Rivière Colbert after the French king's minister. Our esteemed -antetemporary Jonathan Carver paddled that way too, and so did others -too numerous to mention, among them the macronymous G. W. -Featherstonhaugh, F. R. S., etc., whose canoe voyage up the Minnay -Sotor, etc., made in 1835, furnished data for very readable and -realistic gossip, 2 vols. 8vo, Lond. 1847, I. p. 151 _seq._ The -clearest view of the Fox-Wisconsin traverse I have seen is on the map -accompanying Bvt. Maj. C. R. Suter's Rep., being Doc. E of Bvt. -Maj.-Gen. G. K. Warren's Prelim. Rep. Surv. Miss. River above Rock -Island rapids, this being Ex. Doc. No. 58, Ho. Reps., 39th Congress, -2d Sess., 8vo, Washington, Government Printing Office, 1867, pp. -1-116. Accurate engineering operations always reduce the mileages -guessed at by tired travelers or idle tourists, but Dickson's -estimates come remarkably near Suter's measurements, some of which -are: Lower Fox r., 37½ m.; traverse on Lake Winnebago, 15½ m.; Upper -Fox r., 104 m.; canal at portage, 2-1/3 m.; Wisconsin r., 112 m.; -total, Green Bay to Prairie du Chien, 271-1/3 m. - -I may here summarize as curtly as I can the main points of the -probable fact that the Upper Mississippi was reached by practically -this route, by Menard and Guerin, before its long-alleged and -generally accepted discovery by Joliet and Marquette, as above noted. -In 1659 Fond du Lac was approached by two traders, Groseilliers and -Radisson; the former was Medard Chouart, the latter Pierre d'Esprit. -Groseilliers, Grozayyay, Desgrozeliers, etc., was b. near Meaux in -France; traded on Lake Huron in 1646; in 1647, married Veuve Étienne -of Quebec, daughter of Abraham Martin; in Aug., 1653, married -Marguerite Hayet Radisson, sister of Radisson. Radisson was b. St. -Malo, France; came to Canada 1651, married Elizabeth Herault 1656; was -at Three Rivers in Canada in 1658, and arranged to go with -Groseilliers to Lake Superior. The two built the first trading-post on -Lake Superior, at Chaquamegon bay (old Chagouamikon, etc.). -Groseilliers was back at Montreal Aug. 21st, 1660; he returned to Lake -Superior and was at Keweenaw bay Oct. 15th, 1660. Some of the traders -of his party wintered here 1660-61; with them was the Jesuit Menard, -the first missionary on the lake. Menard and one Jean Guerin left the -lake June 13th, 1661, for the region of the Ottawa lakes in Wisconsin. -Perrot says that Menard and Guerin followed the Outaouas to the Lake -of the Illinoets (Lake Michigan), and to the River Louisiane (_i. e._, -the Mississippi), to a point above the River Noire (Black r.), where -they were deserted by their Huron Indians. One day in August, 1661, -they were ascending a rapid in their canoe, which Menard left to -lighten it; he lost his way, and perished; Guerin survived. Menard's -breviary and cassock, it is said, were later found among the Sioux. -Justin Winsor's Narr. and Crit. Hist. Amer. IV. p. 206, gives a sketch -map on which a place is marked as that where Menard was lost. This -seems to be toward the sources of Chippewa r. If Perrot's relation be -true, and not misunderstood, Menard and Guerin reached the Mississippi -via the Wisconsin from Green bay, ascended it to the Black or the -Chippewa, and left it that way in the summer of 1661, 12 years before -Joliet and Marquette came to the Mississippi. - -[VII-7] Dickson's use of the term "La Baye" requires qualification to -prevent misreading him. 1. The old Baye des Puans or Puants, Stinkers' -bay, so called from the malodorous fish-eating Winnebagos who lived -thereabouts, became from its verdure la Baie Verte, our Green bay, -_i. e._, the whole water of that great N. W. arm of Lake Michigan, into -the head of which Lower Fox r. empties. The last 7 m. of this river -makes a sort of estuary from the foot of the last rapids, or head of -natural river navigation, to the waters of Green bay; and this whole -estuarian course was La Baye or La Baie of various early writers. 2. -The earliest French footing on the estuary was the Jesuit mission at -the foot of the rapids called Rapides des Pères (Priests' rapids), -whence the modern name De Pere or Depere for the town now at or near -the spot, on the E. bank of the river. The earliest French fort there -was called Fort La Baye or La Baie; and this is the implication of the -term as the name of a spot or place on the estuary also called "La -Baye" or "La Baie." 3. When settlement was made under English -occupation it crept down the estuary on the E. side to near the bay, -and "La Baye," _i. e._, La Baie Verte, furnished the local habitation -as well as the name of our Green Bay (town), a mile or two above the -mouth of the estuary. 4. Under our régime, La Baie of the American Fur -Company period was at a place called Shantytown, say halfway between -the old French La Baye (present town of Depere) and the less old -English La Baie (present county town of Green Bay, Brown Co., Wis.). -5. There were other settlements along the estuary, on the same side -too. Thus, writing of 1835, Featherstonhaugh speaks of the new -American settlement of Navarino, "a short distance" from Shantytown; -he describes the latter as "a small bourgade," and locates Navarino -opp. Fort Howard, _i. e._, where Green Bay now is. 6. On the left -bank, nearly opp. present Green Bay, but rather nearer Green bay, was -the site of our Fort Howard, which flourished say 60 years ago, and -bequeathed the name to the town of Howard or Fort Howard, now opposite -Green Bay. On the left bank higher up, opp. Depere, is a town called -Nicollet, no doubt a belated bud of promise, as no such place appears -on maps of 25 years ago. 7. None of the foregoing localities or -establishments on Fox r. must be confounded with the recent outgrowth -called Bay Settlement, which is out on the S. E. shore of Green bay, -toward Point Sable. - -[VII-8] Kakalin and Konimee of the above text, also Cockien of p. 295, -are three forms of one word which has other curious shapes. -Featherstonhaugh I. p. 162, speaks of rapids "called in the Menominie -tongue Kawkawnin, literally 'can't get up,'" and says that the -voyageurs make it Cocolo. Suter's text has Kankarma; his map, Kankana. -Present usage favors Kaukauna; so G. L. O. maps, railroad folders, -etc. With the qualifying terms Petit and Grand, or Little and Great, etc., -the word denotes different places and things on the river; _i. e._, -certain lower and upper rapids themselves, together with certain -settlements at or near each of these obstructions to navigation. Petit -Kakalin, Petite chute, Little Konimee, Little shoot, Little rapids, -designated the lower rapids; and the town 6 m. above Depere received -the name of Little Rapids or Little Kaukauna. Some miles above this -place is now Wrightstown, on the right or E. bank of Fox r. Between -Little Kaukauna and Wrightstown are obstructions in the river which -are or were called Rapides Croches, from their crookedness. All the -foregoing are in present Brown Co. Passing to Outagamie Co., we find -what Dickson called the fall of Grand Konimee, and others knew as -Grand Kakalin, Grand chute, etc. This is now simply styled Kaukauna -falls, without any qualifying term; and the town there is Kaukauna -Falls. Above Kaukauna falls and town, say 2 or 3 m., are rapids called -Little chute (duplicating a different application of the name), and -within a mile of them are others known as Cedar rapids. In this -vicinity is also the town of Little Chute, 7 or 7½ m. below Appleton, -seat of Outagamie Co. From Appleton we pass into Winnebago Co., and it -is only 6 or 8 m. to where Dickson says "the river opens into a small -lake," _i. e._, Lake Winnebago discharges into Lower Fox r. This -outlet is by two channels, N. and S., separated by Doty or Doty's -isl.; here are the Puant, or, as now known, Winnebago rapids; here was -the first Puant or Winnebago village; here are now the cities of -Menasha on the N. channel, and Neenah on the S. channel. The rapids -are strongest in the latter. - -[VII-9] Formerly Lac des Puans or des Puants, Stinkers' l., etc. This is -the large body of water in Winnebago, Calumet, and Fond Du Lac cos., -35 m. long, 9 to 14 m. wide, and 12 to 25 feet deep, thus being an -extensive overflow of Fox r., which enters at Oshkosh, Winnebago Co., -about the middle of the W. side of the lake, and leaves by Neenah and -Menasha, at the N. W. corner. The distance between these points, which -was the usual canoe traverse, is 15½ m. There is a small island in -this distance, known by the name of Garlic, which Featherstonhaugh -calls Hotwater, from a droll incident he describes, I. p. 174. The -Puant village which Dickson mentions as being at the upper end of the -lake was at or near present Fond Du Lac, the county seat, and one of -well known places in Wisconsin. Dickson's midway "Fols Avoine" village -was the Menomonee settlement on the E. side of the lake, in Calumet -Co. (Stockbridge and Brotherton Res.). Lake Winnebago conveniently -divides Fox r. into the Upper Fox, which runs into it, and the Lower -Fox, which runs out of it into Green bay; it also acts as a sort of -reservoir or regulator to prevent freshets in the Lower Fox. The -western shore is now skirted with railroads all the way from Menasha -to Fond du Lac, and various towns are strung along this distance. Just -before Fox r. falls in, it suffers dilatation into what was and is -still called Lac Butte des Morts, the head of which is about 7 m. from -Oshkosh; town of the same cheerful name there now. In this vicinity -Loup or Wolf r. falls into the Upper Fox, after passing through an -expansion known by some such perversions of the Chippewa name as -Pawmaygun, Pauwaicun, Poygan, etc. - -[VII-10] This is easier to locate than to tell the name of. It is that -dilatation of Upper Fox r. which lies mainly in Green Lake Co., and -for some little distance separates this from Marquette Co. The lake is -14½ m. long, but very narrow. Rush l. would be the English translation -of the Indian name, a few of the variants of which are Apachquay, -Apuckaway, Apukwa, Puckaway, Packaway, Pokeway, Puckway, Pacaua, etc. -Before this notable lake was reached, the canoes passed the mouth of -Wolf r., as above said; of Waukan r., discharging from a certain Rush -l. in Winnebago Co., in the vicinity of places called Omri, Delhi, and -Eureka; a couple of small streams at and near Berlin, Green Lake Co.; -Puckegan cr., the discharge of Green l., which falls in at Fiddler's -(qu. Fidler's?) Bend, on the S.; near this White r., on the N.; -present site of Princeton, Green Lake Co., 12¼ m. above Fiddler's -Bend; and lastly Mechan or Mecan r., whence it is only 6 m. to Lake -Puckaway. The town of Marquette, Green Lake Co., is on the lake near -its foot; and 7 m. above its head is Montello, seat of Marquette Co. A -stream absurdly called Grand r. falls in on the S. between Lake -Puckaway and Montello. From Montello to Packwaukee is 8 m.; this is on -Boeuff, Beef, or Buffalo l., a dilatation of the river like Lake -Puckaway, but not so wide. There was an old French fort or factory -here, whose name is given as Ganville (qu. Bienville?). The "forks" of -Fox r. of which Dickson speaks is the confluence of Necha r.; but -there seems to be some copyist's mistake about the situation of his -Lac Vaseux "ten leagues above the forks"; for there is no 28½ m. of -the river left. Lac Vaseux of the text, otherwise known as Muddy, -Rice, and Manomin, immediately succeeds Buffalo l., being below (north -of) Moundville and Roslin or Port Hope. It seems to be reckoned a part -of Lake Buffalo, for the distance hence to the Wisconsin r. is given -as only about 14 m. The canal which Dickson recommends was long since -cut, with a length of 2-1/3 m. to Portage, seat of Columbia Co. From -this place along the Wisconsin r. to the Mississippi, given by Dickson -and repeated by Long as 60 leagues = 165 m., is 112 m. I have not the -clew to the exact location of Dickson's Détour du Pin or Pine Bend; -but I imagine it was about the situation of Lone Rock, Richland Co., -above the mouth of Pine r., and below the place that Mr. Whitney named -Helena, when he had his curious shot-tower there some 60 years ago. - -[VII-11] The Montreal or Kawasidjiwong r. is a small stream which -separates Wisconsin from Michigan for some little distance, and falls -into Lake Superior at Oronto bay, E. of Point Clinton. The connection -with Sauteur or Chippewa r., of which Pike speaks, was made by -portages from the main E. fork of the Chippewa--that is, from -Manidowish, Flambeau, or Torch r. But we should note here that there -was more than one recognized route by way of the Chippewa from the -Mississippi to Lake Superior, and in Carver's case, for example, -confusion has arisen in consequence. Thus, some say that Carver left -the Mississippi by way of Chippewa r. This is true; but he did not -reach Lake Superior by way of Flambeau r. and Montreal r. Observing -this, some say he reached Lake Superior by way of the St. Croix and -the river he calls Goddard's. This is true; but he did not leave the -Mississippi by St. Croix r. In June, 1767, Carver came from Prairie du -Chien up the Miss. r. to the Chippewa; he went up this for the Ottawaw -lakes, as he calls the present Lac Court Oreilles and some lesser ones -close by; visited the Chippewa town whence the river took its name, he -says, "near the heads of this river;... In July I left this town, and -having crossed a number of small lakes and carrying places that -intervened, came to a head branch of the river St. Croix. This branch -I descended to a fork, and then ascended another to its source. On -both these rivers I discovered several mines of virgin copper, which -was as pure as that found in any other country. Here I came to a small -brook," which by confluence of others soon "increased to a most rapid -river, which we descended till it entered into Lake Superior.... This -river I named ... Goddard's River," Trav., ed. 1796, pp. 66, 67. A -small river west of Goddard's Carver named Strawberry r., "from the -great number of strawberries of a good size and flavor that grew on -its banks." - -[VII-12] Pike was sadly misinformed on this point. No place on the river -is better known than St. Croix falls, above Osceola Mills, Polk Co., -Wis., and Franconia, Chisago Co., Minn., where the descent is quoted -at 5 feet in 300 yards. Higher up, the river has many rapids--toward -its head so many that Nicollet's map legends "Succession of Rapids"; -Schoolcraft's marks about a dozen; Lieut. Allen, when abandoned by Mr. -Schoolcraft, encountered "almost interminable rapids"; La Salle cited -Du Luth for "forty leagues of rapids," in his letter from Fort -Frontenac, Aug. 22d, 1682; and Hennepin called the St. Croix "a river -full of rapids." They are most numerous and most nearly continuous -above Yellow and Namakagon rivers, two of the principal branches of -the Upper St. Croix, both of which drain from the region about the -Ottawa lakes and others in Sawyer and Washburn cos., Wis. Pike's Burnt -r. is supposed to be the same as Carver's Goddard r.; it is also -called Burnt Wood r., from the F. Bois Brûlé, and the latter name is -still in use. Burnt r. is called by Nicollet Wissakude and by others -Misacoda--a name no doubt the same as Nimissakouat, Nemitsakouat, -Nissipikouet, etc., _de l'ancien régime_; on Franquelin's map, 1688, -it stands Neouoasicoton. This last is a specially notable case, as -Franquelin marks "Fort St. Croix" and "Portage" near the head of his -river at a certain "Lac de la Providence" in which he heads his "R. de -la Magdelaine"; for these are the Upper St. Croix l. and the St. Croix -r. (This post was probably established by Du Luth before 1684 or 1685; -he had been in Paris in 1683; at Montreal, Quebec, etc., 1682 and -1681; and in June, 1680, made the Bois Brûlé-St. Croix trip from Lake -Superior to the Mississippi.) Franquelin's early map, 1683-84, is said -to be the first to delineate the Bois Brûlé-St. Croix route: this -shows R. de la Magdelaine connecting by Lac de la Providence with R. -Neouaisicoton, but no Fort St. Croix is there marked. This river is -said well enough to head in this lake; but more precisely, its sources -are in the feeders of this lake. One of these, which is situated on a -pine ridge a couple of miles off, offers the always interesting, -though not very rare case of a sheet of water running two ways; for -this small Source l., as it is called, discharges one way into the St. -Croix stream, hence into the Gulf of Mexico, and the other way into -Burnt r., which takes water to Lake Superior and finally to the Gulf -of St. Lawrence. The Burnt is navigable, though much obstructed with -shoals, rapids, and falls; it runs in the main northward, near the E. -border of Douglas Co. (named for Stephen A. Douglas), and falls into -the Kichi Gummi, Sea of the North, West Sea, Grand Lac (Champlain's -Voy., 1632, map), Lac de Condé, Lac de Tracy, Lac Supérieur, Lacus -Superior (De Creux, 1664, map), Lake Algona, etc. There were Chippewa -villages along nearly the whole line of both the rivers at various -points, including one on an island in the Upper St. Croix l. Islands -and peninsulas in lakes were always favorite sites, for in such cases -these Indians enjoyed some additional immunity from the Sioux in what -we may style their "moated granges." On the St. Croix r., low down, -was the Chippewa-Sioux boundary line, marked for some years by cedar -trees which stood there a few miles below St. Croix falls: see note -17, p. 101. - -[VII-13] Keating, I. 1824, p. 287, cites Long's MS. 1817, fol. 12, that -Major Long's "boat crossed it, from a dead start, in 16 strokes." -Referring to note 69, p. 70, for some historical remarks on St. -Pierre's r., I wish to add here that this remarkable stream was at one -period the main course of the Mississippi. The evidence of the rocks -supports the opinion that the Falls of St. Anthony were once opposite -the position of Fort Snelling. The Mississippi above the mouth of St. -Pierre's differs in various particulars from the character it acquires -below that point, and was once tributary to a then greater stream. -This case does not seem to have attracted the attention to which it -became entitled after its forcible presentation by General Warren. It -is not so well marked as the obvious case of the Missouri _vs._ the -Mississippi, in which there is no question which is the main and which -the subsidiary stream; but it is similar. In other words, what the -Mississippi is to the Missouri above St. Louis, that the Mississippi -has been to the Minnesota above Fort Snelling. - -[VII-14] The "rough draft" herein mentioned was published in the orig. -ed. as a plate of page size, and is reproduced in facsimile for the -present ed. - -[VII-15] Pike's phrase "Le Mille Lac" brings up an orthographic case -unique in some respects. No Minnesota lake is better known than this -one; but what shall we call it? Shall we say Mille Lac, and then call -the county in which it is partly situated Mille Lacs, as the G. L. O. -map of 1887 does? Is the single body of water Le Mille Lac, as Pike -says, or Les Mille Lacs? Is this one lake of a thousand, or a thousand -lakes in one? Nobody seems to know; hence a crop of phrases, _e. g._, -Mille Lac, Mille Lacs, Milles Lac, Milles Lacs; also, Mille Lac Lake, -Lake Mille Lac, Lake Mille Lacs, Mille Lacs Lake; item, Mil Lac, Mill -Lake, and other vagaries too many and too trivial to cite, all of -which the student of Minnesota geography will discover sooner or -later. The phrase being French, we naturally turn to see what a pure -French scholar who was also a great geographer has to say on the -subject. Speaking of the Sioux having their principal hunting-camps on -Leech l. and on "_Minsi-sagaigon-ing_, or Mille Lacs," Nicollet -explains in a note, Rep. 1843, p. 66: "This name is derived from -_minsi_, all sorts, or everywhere, etc.; _sagaigon_, lake; and _ing_, -which is a termination used to indicate a place; so the meaning of the -word is 'place where there are all sorts of lakes,' which the French -have rendered into Mille Lacs." Whence it appears that _Mille Lacs_ is -short for some such phrase as _le pays aux mille lacs_, _l'entourage -des mille lacs_, the country full of lakes, the environment of a -thousand lakes, etc. Now it so happens geographically that this one -lake among the thousand is vastly larger than any of the rest, perhaps -than all the rest put together; it is _par excellence le lac des mille -lacs_, the one among a thousand; furthermore, that it was a Sioux -rendezvous, which became known as Mille Lacs by a sort of unconscious -figure of speech on the part of those who very likely never heard of -the rhetorical trope synecdoche, but called a part by the name of the -whole, to suit themselves. I imagine, therefore, that the seeming -solecism of a plural phrase for a singular thing is logically correct; -that Nicollet was right in writing Mille Lacs; that Lac Mille Lacs -would be grammatically defensible, though inelegant; and that we could -say in English Lake Mille Lacs, or Lake Thousand-lakes, with equal -propriety, though we should avoid such forms as Lake Mille Lac, or -Mille Lac lake. In fine, the phrase Mille Lacs has ceased to concern -any question of grammatical number, and become a mere _name_ of two -words. As for the pleonasm or tautology of such phrases as Lac Mille -Lacs, or Lake Mille Lacs, etc., this need not disturb us as long as we -continue to talk of "Mississippi river," for example, as that means -"Misi River river." There are several earlier names of this remarkable -body of water. The memoir of Le Sieur Daniel Greysolon Du Luth on the -discovery of the country of the Nadouecioux, addressed in 1685 to -Monseigneur Le Marquis de Seignelay, as translated from the original -in the archives of the Ministry of the Marine, has this passage, as -given, _e. g._, in Shea's Hennep., 1880, p. 375: "On the 2nd of July, -1679, I had the honor to plant his Majesty's arms in the great village -of the Nadouecioux, called Izatys, where never had a Frenchman been, -no more than at the Songaskitons and Huetbatons," etc. De or Du Luth, -Lhut, Lhu, Lut, Lud, whatever the trader's name was, had come from -Montreal (Sept. 1st, 1678) with six or eight men to this part of -Canada and was in the vicinity of Sault Ste. Marie on Apr. 5th, 1679, -under the patronage of Comte Louis de Buade de Frontenac, who had -succeeded De Courcelle as governor of Canada Apr. 9th, 1672; -consequently he named the lake Lac de Buade or Lac Buade; this was its -original denomination in French, and such name appears on many old -maps, _e. g._, Hennepin's, 1683, Franquelin's, 1688, De L'Isle's, -1703, etc., some of which also mark a place by the name of Kathio, -supposed to be the site of a large Sioux village, on the W. side of L. -de Buade, near the base of the peninsula later known as Cormorant -Point. Du Luth's Izatys were Gens des Mille Lacs, _i. e._, Sioux who -lived about Lake Mille Lacs in the country of that "number of small -lakes called the Thousand Lakes," as Carver phrases it; they were the -Issati or Islati, Issaqui, Issanti, Issanati, Issanoti, Issayati, -etc., meaning those who lived in lodges on sharp stones, _i. e._, -Knife Indians, at one of the Mille Lacs called Lake Isan or Knife l. -However loosely Du Luth's term Izatys may have come to be used, it -designated and most properly designates the genuine original Gens du -Lac, or People of Lake Thousand-lakes, our modern Mdewakontonwans. Du -Luth's Houetbatons are supposed to be our Wakpatons, Warpetonwans, or -Waqpatonwans; his Songaskitons, our Sisitonwans, Seseetwawns or -Sissetons, _i. e._, lake-dwellers (_sisi_, marsh or lake, _tonwan_, -people); these two tribes are located on old maps eastward of Lake -Mille Lacs. In 1689, date of Pierre Lesueur's and Nicholas Perrot's -visit to Sioux dominions, we hear that N. E. of the Mississippi lived -the Menchokatonx or Mendesuacantons, _i. e._, the same Sioux as Du -Luth's Izatys of Lac Buade. According to E. D. Neill, Macalester Coll. -Cont. No. 10, in 1697 Aubert de la Chesnaye said that "at the lake of -the Issaqui, also called Lake Buade, are villages of the Sioux called -Issaqui; and beyond this lake are the Oetbatons; further off are the -Anitons who are also Cioux." Neill also cites a certain doc., dated -Quebec, 1710, which states that "the three bands with which we are -acquainted are the Tintons, the Songasquitons, and the Ouadebaetons." -Two of these are obviously the same as two of Du Luth's; the third -(Tintons) are the same as the Izatys, or rather a band of Indians who -came under this more general denomination. This connection is -established in Hennepin, whose Tintonbas, Tintonhas, or Thinthonhas -were Sioux who lived on the St. Francis (or Rum r., the main discharge -of Lake Buade) near the Issantis, and were the Indians who captured -his companions and himself. This dig at the roots of primitive Sioux -ethnology is merely to bring up the next name of Lac Buade; for, from -such intimate connection as this body of water had with certain Sioux, -it immediately became known as Lac des Issatis, and soon as Lac des -Sioux, or Sioux l.; moreover, St. Francis or Rum r., which runs out of -the lake, became Sioux r.; _e. g._, Franquelin's map, 1688, marks "R. -des François ou des Sioux." De L'Isle's map, 1703, letters the lake -"Mississacaigan ou L. Buade," and the issuant river "R. de -Mendeouacanion." The first of these two Indian names is the one which -Nicollet adopts for the lake in the form Minsi Sagaigoning; the other -is the same word as Mdewakantonwan. Nicollet's remark on this subject, -like all his pregnant writing, requires attention here, especially as -it raises a geographical besides a nomenclatural point, Rep. 1843, p. -67: "We still find some confusion on the maps as regards the name of -_Minsi-sagaigon-ing_. Some have laid it down as _Mille Lacs_; others -as Spirit lake; and on others, again, it appears as two lakes, with -(separately) both names. The ambiguity arises from the fact that the -same lake has been named by two nations. The one which I have adopted -is from the Chippeways; that by which it is known to the Sioux is -_Mini-wakan_--meaning literally, water spirit; but, in this case, -intended to signify _ardent spirits_. The river that issues from this -lake has been named Rum river by the traders; which appellation the -Chippeways have translated into _Ishkode-wabo_, or ardent spirits; and -the Sioux into _Mdote-mini-wakan_, or outlet of the ardent spirits." -That is a dismal aboriginal pun which mixes up nature-spirits with the -artificial product, turns the lake into a bottle, and the river into -its neck; it is bad enough to have been perpetrated "next morning," -and it is too bad that the debauches to which the traders allured the -Indians should have been perpetuated in geographical nomenclature. -Spirit l. is the name under which Long, for example, maps Lake Mille -Lacs, and the Gens du Lac he calls People of Spirit Lake; and -Schoolcraft, Narr. Journ. of 1820, pub. 1821, p. 214, has Great Spirit -lake and Missisawgaiegon--the latter name also applied to its -discharge (Rum r.). Spirit is not now a name of Lake Mille Lacs; the -one for which Nicollet conserved the name Mini-wakan, and which hence -became known as Spirit l. and Devil's l., is the large body of water -in N. Dakota, tributary to the Red River of the North; Spirit l. of -modern Minnesota geography is a little one of the collection in Aitkin -Co., between Lower Red Cedar l. and Mille Lacs l. The latter is the -second largest lacustrine body of water in the State. It is situated -across the intercounty line between Aitkin and Mille Lacs, about half -in one and half in the other of these two counties. Its figure is more -regular than usual, being squarish, with three corners rounded off and -the S. E. one drawn out a little; there is also some constriction -about the middle, where points facing each other run out from the E. -and W. shore respectively; the shore line is said to be about 100 -miles in all. The lake is readily accessible, being only some 12 m. S. -of Aitkin, and is a favorite resort for outings. One of the 14 present -Ojibwa reservations is on its S. shore. - -[VII-16] There is an error here, as what Hennepin called the St. François -in 1680 is Rum r. of Carver, 1766, and authors generally; while St. -Francis r. of Carver, which he thought was Hennepin's St. François, is -Pike's Leaf r., now known as Elk r. See note 7, p. 95, where this -case is fully discussed. - -[VII-17] Pike maps four on the W., above his Clear = Platte r., and -below his Pine cr. = Swan r.: see note 19, p. 103. - -[VII-18] The name of this branch of St. Pierre's r. in Minnesota -duplicates that of a large branch of the Mississippi in Wisconsin. The -Minnesota tributary is Miawakong r. of Long's map, 1823, and Manya -Wakan r. of Nicollet's, 1843. - -[VII-19] Lac à la Queue de Loutre of the F., whence the E. name. This is -the largest body of water into which the Red River of the North -expands in Minnesota, and may be called a principal source of that -river, as Pike says, though it compares with the true source very much -as Leech l. or Winnibigoshish l. does with that of the Mississippi. It -is situated about the center of Otter Tail Co., some 60-70 m. S. W. of -Leech l.; Pike's map tucks it up snug under Leech l. The Leech-Otter -Tail traverse, or route by which one passed from Mississippian waters -to those of Red r., as beyond indicated by Pike, is given in detail by -Schoolcraft upon information of traders who were familiar with this -chain of lakes. Using the nomenclature of his Narrative, etc., 1834, -p. 105, it may be stated as follows: From Leech l. through lakes -called Warpool, Little Long, of the Mountain and of the Island, to the -Crow Wing series, or Longwater, Little Vermillion, Birch, and Plé. -Lake Plé was the one where the route forked--one way leading on down -the Crow Wing series, the other turning off to the Otter Tail series. -The latter consisted in, first, a portage of four pauses to Island l.; -portage of one pause into a small lake which led into another, and -this into Lagard l.; half a pause to a small lake; pause and a half to -another; four pauses into Migiskun Aiaub or Fishline l.; a pause into -Pine l.; five pauses into a small river which runs into Scalp l. The -latter has an outlet which expands into three successive and about -equidistant lakes, and is then received into Lac Terrehaute, or Height -of Land l. The outlet of this last expands into a lake, and again into -water called Two Lakes from its form; whence the discharge is into -Otter Tail l. It is not easy to pick this exact route up from a modern -map; but I may add that it runs in Hubbard, Becker, and Otter Tail -cos.; that some of the lakes on or near this series are known as -Height of Land, Little Pine, Pine, and Rush (these being on the course -of Otter Tail r., and therefore on the Red River water-shed); and that -some places on or near the route are called Park Rapids, Osage, -Linnell, Shell Lake, Jarvis, Erie, McHugh, Frazer City, Lace, Perham, -and St. Lawrence. The N. P. R. R. from Moorhead to Brainerd crosses -the route in two or three places, one of these being between Pine and -Rush lakes. - -[VII-20] Pinenet or pinenett is Pike's version of épinette of the French -voyageurs, name of the tree we commonly call tamarac or hackmetack, -and which the botanists know as black larch, _Larix americana_. It is -so abundant and characteristic in some places that the wet grounds in -which it grows are usually called tamarac swamps. The sap pine of the -same sentence has been already noted as the balsam-fir, _Abies -balsamea_: see note 44, p. 132. There is a Lac Sapin, called in -English Balsam-fir lake. The supposed occurrence of hemlock, _Tsuga -canadensis_, in this locality is open to question. - -[VII-21] "R. le Crosse" of Pike's map, the discharge of the lake now -universally known as Ball Club: see the account of it in note 56, -p. 150. - -[VII-22] The lake which Pike calls Winipie is the large body of water in -British America, through which the combined streams of the Assiniboine -and Red River of the North find their way into Hudson's bay, and which -we know as Lake Winnipeg; but this does not further concern us now. -Pike's Lake Winipeque is what we now call Lake Winnibigoshish, on the -course of the Mississippi. The French forms of the latter name, such -as Ouinipique, etc., whence our Winipeque, Winipec, Winipeck, etc., -are diminutizing terms, as if to say Little Lake Winipeg. There can be -no occasion for confounding the two lakes, notwithstanding the -similarity and sometimes the identity of their names. - -Lake Winnibigoshish is that very large dilatation of the Mississippi -which lies next below Cass l.: see note 8, p. 159, for the distance -between the two, and details of that section of the river which -connects them. The variants of its name are moderately numerous: -Winipeque, as above, but Winipec on Pike's map; Wenepec, Lewis and -Clark's map, 1814; Little Winnepeck, Long; Winnipec, Beltrami, -Schoolcraft; Winnepeg and Big Winnipeg, Allen; Winibigoshish, -Nicollet, Owen--this last the only name now used, generally with -doubled _n_, and with some variants, like Winnepegoosis, etc. This is -the second largest body of water in the whole Itascan basin, exceeded -only by Leech l., and much exceeding Cass l.; its area is probably not -far from that of Lake Pepin, but the shape is very different. The -figure is squarish, with the N. W. and S. W. corners rounded off, and -the N. E. corner extended into a well-marked bay; the main diameters -are about 11 m. from N. to S., and 7½ from E. to W.; the area thus -indicated is little encroached upon by projecting points, so that the -shore line is shorter than usual in proportion to the extent of -waters; the collateral feeders of the lake are comparatively few and -unimportant. The lake lies partly in no fewer than eight townships -(each 6 × 6 m. sq.); but it only slightly encroaches on five of these, -occupying nearly all of T. 146, R. 28, 5th M., the greater part of T. -145, R. 28, and about half of T. 146, R. 27: actual area thus -equivalent to rather more than two townships, or over 72 sq. m. The -construction of the government dam at the outlet has decidedly altered -the shore line, and modified other natural features; the overflow due -to this obstruction has inundated the original shore contour in the -low places, formed some backwater expansions, and drowned countless -trees. Many of these stand stark and black where they grew, far out -from the present shore line, which itself is piled with drift-wood in -most places. Snags also abound all along the wooded shores, and the -water is so shallow that some beds of bulrushes rise above the surface -a mile or more from land. The scene is desolate and forbidding. Add to -this a danger of navigation to an unusual degree for the frail -birch-bark canoes which alone are used on Winnibigoshish. The lake is -too large to be safely crossed in such boats at any time. Even the -Indians habitually sneak to the shore through the snags and rushes; -for the water is very shallow, easily churned up to quite a sea. -Sudden squalls and shifting currents are always to be expected, and -one runs considerable risk in venturing where land cannot be made in a -few minutes, if necessary. It would be nothing, of course, to a -well-built keel-boat with sail and oars; but a birch-bark is quite -another craft. I have seen Winnibigoshish as smooth as glass, and then -in a few minutes been glad to put ashore, to escape a choice between -swamping or capsizing, amid whitecaps and combers at least four feet -from crest to hollow, breaking on a lee shore full of snags and piled -with driftwood. Good landing places are not to be found all along; -most of the shore is low, and much of it consists of floating-bog, in -which a man may sink as easily, and less cleanly, than in quicksand, -if he sets an incautious foot. The water is so impure as to be -scarcely fit for drinking; the lake is a sort of cesspool for all the -sewerage of the basin whose waters pass through it. Winnibigoshish, in -short, is dreary, dirty, deceitful, and dangerous. - -The Mississippi enters this reservoir in the S. W. part, at a point in -the S. W. ¼ of Sect. 36, T. 146, R. 29, 5th M., where it sweeps around -a firm bank, steep enough to be cut in some places, and on which some -Indians live; quite a little delta extends far out into the lake, -overgrown with bulrushes to such an extent as to hide the opening. But -it is not difficult to thread any one of several ways through these to -the high bank just said, which is the land-mark; a more conspicuous -one, from a distance, is a piece of high woodland whose point is due -S. ½ m. from the inlet. Hence southward is the nearest approach of -Leech l.; a traverse offers by means of Portage l. (Nicollet's Lake -Duponceau), though the carrying-place is somewhat over 2 m. long. - -Passing northward, to our left as we start from the Mississippian -inlet to go around the shore, the first prominent feature is Raven's -point, distant from the inlet 4 m. The maps all represent this as much -longer and sharper than it looked to my eye; probably much of the -point that was once land is now under water, owing to the dam. It is -the site of a squalid village of Chippewas, who have been civilized -into the whole assortment of our own vices. A considerable stream -falls in here, which I suppose is Kaminaigokag r. of Nicollet and -Owen, though it is nameless on more modern maps. Its mouth is in Sect. -18, T. 146, R. 29, close to the N. border of Sect. 19; near by is a -lake about a mile in diameter, probably due to overflowage. Rounding -Raven's point and proceeding N. 4 m. further, we come to a little bay -into which flows a considerable stream from the W. This is Third r., -often marked "III. R." The reason for this name will presently appear. -Schoolcraft in Narr. Journey of 1820, pub. 1821, p. 246, calls it -"Thornberry river, or La rivière des Epinettes," but F. _épinette_ -does not mean "thornberry": see note 20, p. 319. The mouth of Third -r. falls in the N. W. ¼ of Sect. 33, T. 147, R. 28. Coasting now E. -along the N. shore, we round the prominence which defines Third River -bay, and which I call Windy pt. from my experience there--it had no -name that I could discover. It consists of a floating-bog for some -distance back, and in this morass, further eastward, a small creek -empties in Sect. 35 of the T. and R. last said; this may be called Bog -cr., if no earlier name can be found; it is not one of the regularly -enumerated streams. A mile and a half eastward of Bog cr., nearly or -exactly on the line between Sect. 36 of the same township and Sect. 31 -of T. 147, R. 27, is the mouth of Pigeon r. No other name is heard on -the spot; but this is Second r. or "II. R." of the geographers. -Schoolcraft, _l. c._, called it Round Lake r., and Round l. is present -name of its principal source. There is a good landing here on a bit of -beach under a firm, bluffy bank, the site of the most decent and -well-to-do Chippewa village about the lake. Three and a half miles E. -S. E. of Pigeon r. is the wide, irregular opening of Cut Foot Sioux -r., otherwise First r., or "I. R.," which discharges from a system of -lakes, the nearest one of which is marked Cut Toe l. by Owen, and -Keeskeesedatpun l. on the Jewett map of 1890. This is the river called -Turtle Portage r. by Schoolcraft, _l. c._ Several houses stand on and -under the high land on the E. or left bank, a fraction of a mile back -of the opening, among them the trading-house of one Fairbanks, where -the usual robberies are perpetrated under another name, but without -further pretense of any sort. Four miles from the mouth of the Cut -Foot Sioux, in a direction about S. S. E., is the outlet of the -Mississippi, at the bottom of a large bay, offset from the rest of the -lake by prominent points of land. The separation of this bay from the -main body of waters is scarcely less well-marked than that of Pike bay -from the rest of Cass l. I propose to call it Dam bay. The points of -land which delimit its opening into Lake Winnibigoshish are: A long -linguiform extension from the S., occupying all the ground not -overflowed of Sects. 15 and 16, T. 146, R. 27, which may be designated -Tongue pt.; and opposite this, on the N., a much less extensive -prominence, which may become known as Rush pt., in Sect. 10 of the T. -and R. last said. Paddling 1½ m. from Cut Foot Sioux r., we go through -the strait between Tongue and Rush pts., and are then in Dam bay, a -roundish body of water about 2½ m. in diameter. At the S. end of this -is the short thoroughfare (outlet of the Mississippi), less than a -mile long, which leads into Little Lake Winnibigoshish, and has been -dammed at its lower end, in the S. W. ¼ of Sect. 25, necessitating, of -course, a portage of a few yards in canoeing. The dam in part consists -of a solid embankment, stretching from the S.; the rest is the wooden -construction for raising and lowering a series of gates by which the -flow of water can be regulated. This work looks sadly in need of -repair, and is said to be none too secure. At the N. end of the dam is -a high wooded hill, a fine spring of water, and some vacant buildings; -on the other side is a narrow pond over a mile long, called Rice l. - -Immediately below the dam, the Mississippi dilates into Little Lake -Winnibigoshish (once Rush l.), of irregularly oval figure, 2¾ m. long -by scarcely over 1 m. in greatest breadth, its longest diameter about -N. W. to S. E. At a point near the S. E. is the portage, or carrying -place, over to Ball Club l., whose head is there distant about a mile: -see note 56, p. 150. The outlet of the Mississippi is on the S., in -the N. W. ¼ Sect. 6, T. 145, R. 26. Thence the river flows scarcely W. -of S. for 3 m. direct, but I judge fully 6½ by its extremely tortuous -channel, to a place in Sect. 24, T. 145, R. 27, where some rapids -occur; these, however, are easily shot. The further course of the -river is S. E., 8 m. direct, but more than twice as far by the bends, -to the confluence of Leech Lake r., or Pike's "Forks of the -Mississippi": see back, note last cited, p. 151. This whole section of -the Mississippi, from Little Lake Winnibigoshish to the mouth of Leech -Lake r., is easy canoeing down, with plenty of smooth, swift water, -even at low stages, and good places to camp all along on the wooded -points against which the channel continually abuts as it bends from -side to side of the low bottom-land, mostly overgrown with reeds -(_Phragmites communis_) and bulrushes (_Scirpus lacustris_), but -toward Leech Lake r. becoming meadowy and thus fit for haying. Besides -the main bends, or regular channel, there are a great many minor -sluices or cut-offs, practicable for canoeists; and one is borne -quickly along by the current, without minding much whether one is in -the channel or not. This way down, though circuitous and several times -as far as the route by Ball Club l., which lies off to the left as you -descend, is decidedly preferable; but going up river I should advise -one to take the route through Ball Club, and portage over to Little -Lake Winnibigoshish. - -[VII-23] William Morrison is the first of white men known to have been at -Lake Itasca. He wintered at Lac la Folle, 1803-4, visited Lake Itasca -in 1804, and again in 1811 or 1812. Mr. Morrison was b. Canada, 1783, -d. there Aug. 9th, 1866. He kept a journal, which was lost, of his -movements before 1824. He described "Elk" l. to his daughter, Mrs. -Georgiana Demaray, and various other persons; he considered and -declared himself the first of white men at the source, though his -claim does not appear to have become a matter of authentic, citable -publication till 1856: see Final Rep. Minn. Geol. Surv., I. p. 26. The -document on which his claim mainly rests is the extant original of a -letter addressed by William to his brother Allan, dated Berthier, Jan. -16th, 1856. This is published verbatim in Brower's Report, Minn. Hist. -Soc. Coll., VII. 1893, pp. 122-124. Brower says (_l. c._ p. 120) that -the "Morrison letter," as originally published in Minn. Hist. Soc. -Coll., I. 1856, pp. 103, 104, or 2d ed., 1872, pp. 417-419, is "a -composite production." The article there covering the William Morrison -letter is entitled "Who Discovered Itasca Lake?" and includes a letter -from Allan Morrison to General Alexander Ramsay (now ex-Secretary of -War and President of the Society), dated Crow Wing, Benton County, M. -T., Feb. 17th, 1856. Charles Hallock, Esq., formerly of New York, the -well-known author of the Sportsman's Gazetteer and many other works, -founder of the Forest and Stream weekly in New York, and of the town -of Hallock, now the seat of Kittson Co., Minn., published a version of -the "Morrison letter," said to be a "correct copy," in his article The -Red River Trail, Harper's Mag. XIX. No. cix, June, 1859, p. 37, which -aroused the jealous recalcitration of Mr. Schoolcraft, whose -reclamation was made in a letter to George H. Moore, Esq., Librarian -of the New York Historical Society, dated Washington, Aug. 12th, 1859, -and published in the N. Y. Evening Post, Aug. 23d, 1859, p. 1, column -4. I have not inspected Morrison's autograph letter; but I have -compared the three printed versions here in mention--the one of 1856 -or 1872, Hallock's of 1859, and Brower's of 1893. They are all to the -same effect, and evidently from one source; but the textual -discrepancies of all three are so great that they can scarcely be -called "copies." Brower speaks of "several letters written by Mr. -Morrison on this subject," and states that the one he prints, of Jan. -16th, 1856, "is given in full, and just as written and signed." From -this imprint I extract the following clauses: "I left the old Grand -Portage, July, 1802, ... in 1803-4, I went and wintered at Lac La -Folle.... Lac La Biche is near to Lac La Folle. Lac La Biche is the -source of the Great River Mississippi, which I visited in 1804, and if -the late Gen. Pike did not lay it down as such when he came to Leech -lake it is because he did not happen to meet me.... I visited in 1804, -Elk lake, and again in 1811-12," etc. Nothing appears to invalidate -this letter; for Mr. Schoolcraft's contemptuous contention of 1859 -belittled Mr. Morrison and Mr. Hallock without disproving or even -disputing Mr. Morrison's claim. The gravamen of Mr. Schoolcraft's -charge is contained in the statement "that he [Morrison], or his -friends in Minnesota, should have deferred forty-seven years to make -this important announcement, is remarkable." It may have been -"remarkable"; but it is not inexplicable. Mr. Henry D. Harrower, in -the Educational Reporter Extra, Ivison, Blakeman, Taylor and Co., New -York and Chicago, pub. Oct., 1886, 8vo, p. 17, has some discerning and -judicious remarks on this score: "The statements of the brothers -Morrison have generally been received without question by scientists -and geographers in Minnesota; and in his letter Allan Morrison -expresses surprise that anyone should be ignorant of the title of his -brother to the discovery of Itasca prior to Schoolcraft. It is a -curious fact, however, that Allan Morrison acted as guide for Charles -Lanman for a number of weeks in 1846, during which time they visited -Itasca Lake; and that Lanman, in his published account of the trip, -nowhere mentions Wm. Morrison, or intimates that he was ever at the -source of the Mississippi, but definitely ascribes the discovery to -Schoolcraft in 1832. See Lanman's 'Adventures in the Wilderness,' vol. -i, pages 48, 75, etc. I venture the opinion that Morrison first -identified his Elk Lake of 1804 with Schoolcraft's Itasca when he read -Schoolcraft's 'Summary Narrative' (1855); and that it is safe to say -that if Morrison discovered Lake Itasca, Schoolcraft discovered -Morrison." This may be considered to raise the question, What -constitutes discovery? But that does not affect the main issue. Mr. -Morrison's declaration that he visited Lake Itasca in 1804 and again -in 1811-12 thus far rests uncontested. If the case is ever re-opened, -it will probably be upon newly discovered documentary evidence of -priority of discovery by some Frenchman. When Pike was at Leech l. he -just missed, by some months and scarcely more miles, the glory of the -most important discovery he could possibly have made in the course of -this or his other expedition. - -In May, 1820, Lewis Cass, then governor of Michigan, left Detroit with -38 men, among whom was Henry Rowe Schoolcraft. Proceeding by -Michilimackinac he struck the Miss. r. at Sandy l., and entered it -July 17th. The narrative recites that he went to Peckagama falls, -thence 55 m. to the Forks, 45 to Lake Winnipec, and about 50 m. more -to the large lake then first called Cassina and afterward Cass l. by -Schoolcraft. This was entered July 21st; but the party went no -further. It was then represented to them that the source of the river -was in a lake called La Beesh, _i. e._, La Biche, erroneously supposed -to be 60 miles N. W.; upon which the river was computed to be 3,038 m. -long, at an altitude of 1,330 feet: for the particulars of this -voyage, see Schoolcraft's Narrative Journal, etc., pub. E. and E. -Hosford, Albany, N. Y., 1821, 1 vol. 8vo, pp. i-xvi, 17-419, 4 unpaged -pages of index, map, plates; it is full of errors. The Cradled -Hercules, as Nicollet later called it, slept on this till Schoolcraft -returned in 1832 to awaken the infant, with Lieut. Allen, Rev. Mr. -Boutwell, Dr. Houghton, and Mr. Johnston, under the leadership of -Chief Ozawindib. - -Giacomo Constantino Beltrami was b. Bergamo, Italy, 1779; _au mieux_, -Mme. La Comtesse de Campagnoni _née_ Passeri, at Florence, 1812; -exiled, 1821; Fort St. Anthony (Snelling), May 10th, 1823; and when -Long's expedition came in July of that year, he accompanied it up the -Minn. r. and down the Red River of the North to Pembina, where he took -offense and his congé simultaneously, between Aug. 5th-9th. The -differences between the American soldier and the expatriated Italian -were great and various. Major Long ejected Signor Beltrami on the -spot, and on paper dismissed him not less curtly and contemptuously, -making this harsh judgment a personal matter over initials S. H. L. in -Keating, I., p. 314: "An Italian whom we met at Fort St. Anthony -attached himself to the expedition and accompanied us to Pembina. He -has recently published a book entitled, 'La Découverte des Sources du -Mississippi,' &c., which we notice merely on account of the fictions -and misrepresentations it contains." Mr. Schoolcraft makes a point of -snubbing Sig. Beltrami: see _posteà_. The amiable M. le Professeur -Nicollet alone has a kindly word for his co-laborer in Mississippian -exploration: "He descended Turtle river, which empties into Lake -Cass;--that had been the terminus of the expedition of 1820, under the -command of General Cass, and in honor of whom it is so named. Now, as -the sources of Turtle river are more distant from the mouth of the -Mississippi than this [Itasca] lake, Mr. Beltrami thought himself -authorized to publish that _he_ had discovered the sources of the -Mississippi. Hence, perhaps, may be explained why, as late as Mr. -Schoolcraft's expedition of 1832, the sources of the river were laid -down as N. W. of Lake Cass. I may be mistaken, but it strikes me that -American critics have been too disdainful of Mr. Beltrami's book, -which found many readers on both continents, whilst it propagated some -painful errors," Rep. 1843, p. 59. Hon. J. V. Brower, the latest and -altogether the best monographer, stigmatizes Sig. Beltrami as "a -hero-worshipper with but one hero, and that himself," Miss. R., etc., -1893, p. 136. With me the question is not one of Beltrami's character, -temperament, imagination, sex-relations, etc., but simply, What did he -do about the Mississippian _origines_? Brower gives a clear, -connected, and fair answer, _ibid._, pp. 137-141, in part from an -article by Mr. A. J. Hill of St. Paul. Beltrami bravely made his way -alone to Red l., which he left Aug. 26th, 1823; was guided Aug. 28th -to the vicinity of Turtle l.; found a spot whence he thought water -flowed four ways, N., S., E., W., to three oceans, and which _was_ a -part of the divide between Mississippian and Hudsonian waters; named -Lake Julia, tributary to Turtle l., as a "Julian source" of the -Mississippi, which it _was_; declared it to be the true source, as he -defined the "source" of a river, by position relative to position of -the mouth; declared and certainly believed he had discovered this -source, in which he was mistaken, as it was already known; named other -lakes for other friends; and was informed by his guide of Lake Itasca, -which he located on his map with approx. accuracy by the name of Doe -l., translating Lac La Biche of the F., though it appears in his text -as Bitch l. by mistake. For Beltrami distinctly speaks, II. p. 434, of -Lake Itasca: "which the Indians call Moscosaguaiguen, or Bitch lake, -which receives no tributary stream, and seems to draw its waters from -the bosom of the earth. _It is here in my opinion that we shall fix -the western sources of the Mississippi_," as Schoolcraft and Allen -did, nine years afterward. Beltrami proceeded to Cass l., and thence -to Fort St. Anthony, where he arrived after great hardships in a state -of extreme destitution; went to New Orleans, and there published his -first book, 1824. In all this I see no necessary occasion for disdain -or derision; the man did the best he could--"angels could do no more." -He showed courage, fortitude, endurance, perseverance, ambition, and -enthusiasm--all admirable qualities. He wrote an extravagant book, to -be sure; but it displays less egotism and more fidelity to the facts, -as he understood them, than Hennepin's, for example, and has a higher -moral quality than the average Jesuit Relation. He shot high, but not -with a longer bow than many a traveler before and since himself. One -test of his good faith is the perfect ease with which we can find the -facts in his book and separate them from the figments of his -overwrought imagination. Heredity and environment conspired to lead -him into grave errors of judgment and some misstatements of fact; but -which one of us who write books can stone _his_ glass house with -impunity? Beltrami's Julian source will run in the books as long as -the water runs from that source, alongside the Plantagenian and -Itascan sources. Beltrami's map locates Doe=Itasca l. with greater -accuracy than any earlier map does. The "pointed similarity" it has -been said to bear to Pike's--and I fear as a suggestion of -plagiarism--does not extend to the Itascan source, for there is not a -trace of this on Pike's published map. Beltrami went from New Orleans -to Mexico, traversed that country, reached London about 1827, -published his Pilgrimage, etc., 2 vols., and d. at Filotrano, Feb., -1855, in his 76th year. He fills the niche in Mississippian -geographical history between Cass, 1820, and Schoolcraft and Allen, -1832; meanwhile, Itasca State Park lies mainly in Beltrami Co., Minn., -which includes both the Julian and Itascan sources. There was nothing -the matter with Beltrami but woman on the brain; he had a queen bee in -his bonnet--that is all. Much that has been taken for puerile conceit -is the virile badinage of a man of the world, of wit, and of -penetration. I have read his Pilgrimage with interested attention; it -is clear to me that Beltrami was no mere _flâneur_--by no means such a -trifler as some of his passages might excuse one for supposing him to -be. He was a well-read and well-traveled man; his _obiter dicta_ on -various things, as religion, politics, society, and other broad -themes, are generally acute. He was a brave man; I imagine Major Long -had a time of it with Sioux, and Signor Beltrami too; it seems to have -been a case of scalping-knife and stiletto. As I have already cited -the military mailed hand, let us see the fine Italian hand: "Major -Long did not cut a very noble figure in the affair; I foresaw all the -disgusts and vexations I should have to experience," II. p. 303; "met -a band of Sioux. The major thought he read hostile intentions in their -faces; he even thought they had threatened him;--of course everybody -else thought so too--like Casti's courtiers; ... it was incumbent on -me, therefore, to be very much alarmed, too; ... I rather think the -fright they threw the major into was in revenge for his giving them -nothing but boring speeches. If they meant it so they had every reason -to be satisfied," II. pp. 336-37; "Colonel Snelling's son, who shewed -the most friendly concern and apprehensions for me. He also left the -major at the same time, not without violent altercation, ... with -considerable regret I parted from Dr. Say, one of the naturalists -attached to the expedition, the only one who deserved the designation -[this was a tickler for Prof. Keating's fifth rib]," II. 370; "they -[Colonel Snelling, Major Taliaferro, and others] were indignant -against Major Long for acting towards me in the miserable manner that -he did. With respect to myself, I feel towards him a sort of gratitude -for having by his disgusting manners only strengthened my -determination to leave him," II. p. 483. Beltrami was evidently able -to keep his own scalp, and his book is vastly diverting, except in the -boggy places, where he mires us down with his gynæcosophy. It is -entitled: A Pilgrimage in Europe and America, leading to the Discovery -of the Sources of the Mississippi River, etc., 2 vols., 8vo, London, -1828, pp. i-lxxvi, 1-472, and 1-545, map and plates. It is dedicated -"To the Fair Sex. Oh Woman!" The text is in epistolary form, -ostensibly addressed to the countess, and consists of 22 letters, -1821-23; matter of Julian sources, II. p. 409 _seq._, and map. - -In 1830, Cass was directed by the War Department to request -Schoolcraft, who was then an agent of the Office of Indian affairs of -the W. D., to proceed into the Chippewa country to endeavor to put an -end to the hostilities between the Chippewas and the Sioux. The wars -which neither Pike, nor Clark, nor anybody else had succeeded in -stopping permanently in those quarters were thus indirectly the cause, -and directly the occasion, of the rediscovery of the source of the -Miss. r. Schoolcraft left St. Mary's, at the foot of Lake Superior, -late in June, 1831, with 27 persons, exclusive of guides and Indian -portagers. But the atrocious massacre of Menomonees by the Sacs and -Foxes at Prairie du Chien, and other circumstances, diverted this -expedition from the sources of the river, and Schoolcraft returned to -the Sault Ste. Marie. The plan was resumed early in 1832, when another -party was made up of some 30 persons, on the basis of an attempt to -effect permanent peace between the two principal tribes. Schoolcraft -left the Sault June 7th, 1832. This place was and is on a large lake -which S. calls Igomi, Chigomi, and Gitchigomi, and others Kitchi -Gummi--though we prefer Lake Superior to the Chippewa vernacular. On -July 3d, he reached Mr. Aitkin's trading-house on the discharge of -Sandy l., a distance of about 150 m. by the usual St. Louis and -Savanna rivers route. Cass l. was entered on the 10th; this was the -point of departure for new exploration, as it was that where the Cass -expedition had ended July 21st, 1820. Cass l. was then determined to -be 2,978 instead of 3,038 m. from the Gulf of Mexico by the course of -the river. The Indian guide, Ozawindib, began to make history and -immortalize his name at this point. He took the party up the Miss. r. -to Lac Traverse or Pamitchi Gumaug, that is, to Lake Bemidji, and -thence by the chain of lakes Schoolcraft called Irving, Marquette, La -Salle, and Plantagenet, up the course of the "South" (better called -East) fork of the Miss. r. to the Naiwa r. and Usawa l., thus -discovering the linked chain which later became known as the -"Plantagenian source": see note 8, p. 162. Ozawindib then portaged -the party over to the lake which Morrison had discovered in 1804. Camp -was pitched on the island which by common consent bears Schoolcraft's -name, July 13th, 1832. The party consisted of 16 persons, including -Ozawindib, Mr. Schoolcraft, Lieut. James Allen, U. S. A., Dr. Douglass -Houghton, Rev. Wm. T. Boutwell, and Mr. George Johnston. The name -"Itasca" was a whim of Schoolcraft's, which would mislead anyone who -should search Indian languages for its etymology, especially as Mr. S. -himself affects obscurantism by saying: "Having previously got an -inkling of some of their mythological and necromantic notions of the -origin and mutations of the country, which permitted the use of a -female name for it, I denominated it Itasca." This is a dark hint of -mystic and very likely phallic superstitions; but the facts in the -case are given in Brower's Report, p. 148, from personal interview -with the Rev. Boutwell himself, who said in substance that once when -he and Mr. S. were in the same canoe in 1832, the latter suddenly -turned and asked him what was the Greek and Latin definition of the -headwaters or true source of a river. Mr. B. could not on the spur of -the moment rally any Greek, but mustered Latin enough to give Mr. S. -his choice of _Verum Caput_ (true head) or _Veritas_, _Caput_ (truth, -head); by combining which latter two words, beheading one and -bobtailing the other, Mr. S. made (Ver)ITASCA(put), and said, "Itasca -shall be the name." He was quite equal to such juggling with words; -_e. g._, his Lake Shiba is named by a word which consists of the -initial letters of _S_choolcraft, _H_oughton, _I_ohnston (for -_J_ohnston), _B_outwell, and _A_llen. It is lucky Mr. Boutwell did not -think of the Greek for "head waters," or Itasca might have been named -Lake Hydrocephalus. Mr. Schoolcraft perpetuated the etymological myth -by perpetrating some stanzas, two lines of which are: "As if in Indian -myths a truth there could be read, And these were tears indeed, by -fair Itasca shed." None of the party appears to have noticed the -smaller lake south of Itasca, though it was only 333 yards from the -head of the W. arm, which was not explored; and in fact the visit of -so much historical moment was in itself but momentary. The main point -ascertained was the _location_ of Itasca to the S. W. of Cass l., -where Beltrami had already represented it to be, instead of the N. W. -where Schoolcraft had supposed it was. The many little lakes and -streams in the Itasca basin, and all nice topographic features, were -left to be discovered by Nicollet and his successors. Their Chippewa -guide took them back by way of the main, west, or Itascan course of -the river to Cass l., whence they went to Leech l., thence by the -chain of lakes to Crow Wing r., and so on to the Mississippi again. It -is certainly not my desire to disparage Mr. Schoolcraft; but one who -could be taken to the source of the Mississippi and leave it the same -day, seeing nothing but what was shown him, and giving only a glance -at that, was not the person who should have snubbed Beltrami as he did -when he wrote that "a Mr. Beltrami, returning from the settlement of -Pembina by the usual route of the traders from Red Lake to Turtle -Lake, published at New Orleans, a small 12mo volume under the title of -'La découverte des sources du Mississippi, et de la Riviere [_sic_] -Sanglante,' a work which has since been expanded into two heavy 8vo -volumes by the London press" (Narrative, etc., heavy 8vo, New York, -1834, p. 73). That sort of a sneer at a prior explorer in the same -region comes with particularly bad grace from a gentleman who was -expert in expanding his own stock of information to the most -voluminous proportions, and whose cacoëthes scribendi, by dint of -incessant scratching, finally developed a case of pruritus senilis, -marked by an acute mania for renaming things he had named years -before: see his Summary Narrative, etc., Philada., Lippincott, Grambo -and Co., 1855. Mr. Schoolcraft never forgave Sig. Beltrami for telling -where Lake Itasca would be found; had he done so, he would have been -untrue to the supreme selfishness, inordinate vanity, vehement -prejudices, and conscientious narrow-mindedness with which his -all-wise and all-powerful Calvinistic Creator had been graciously -pleased to endow him. Another account of Schoolcraft's expedition of -1832 occupies pp. 125-132 of Minn. Hist. Soc. Coll., I. 2d ed. 1872; -Mr. Boutwell's narrative of the same is found _ibid._, pp. 153-176. - -James Allen's name is not so well known in this connection as it -should be. That is to say, the public seldom connects his name with -the discovery of Lake Itasca. But if Mr. Schoolcraft was the actual -head of the expedition of 1832, and became its best known historian, -Lieutenant Allen was a large and shapely portion of the body of that -enterprise, decidedly the better observer, geographer, and -cartographer; item, the commander of the military escort, which might -have been necessary for safety and success; item, the author of an -able, interesting, and important report upon the subject, which he -made to the military authorities. He was detailed for this duty by -order of A. Macomb, Major-General, commanding the army, dated Hdqrs. -of the Army, Washn., May 9th, 1832, and proceeded to Fort Brady, -Mich., with a detachment consisting of Corporal Wibru, and Privates -Briscoe, Beemis, Burke, Copp, Dutton, Ingram, Lentz, Riley, and Wade, -of the 5th Infantry. He was gone June 6th-Aug. 26th, 1832. His -movements were the same as Mr. Schoolcraft's, except where the latter -left him in the lurch on the St. Croix; his operations more extensive -and more intelligently directed to explore and report upon the -country. He named Schoolcraft isl. and various other things; Allen's -bay was named for him by Mr. Schoolcraft, and Allen's l. by Mr. -Brower. Allen was an Ohio man, appointed from Madison, Jefferson Co., -Ind., cadet at West Point, July 1st, 1825; 2d lieut. 5th Infantry, -July 1st, 1829; 2d lieut. 1st Dragoons, Mar. 4th, 1833; 1st lieut. May -31st, 1835; capt., June 30th, 1837; on detached service, engineering -duty, Chicago, 1837-38; d. suddenly at Fort Leavenworth, Kas., Aug. -22d or 23d, 1846, as lieutenant-colonel of a Mormon battalion of -volunteer infantry he had raised to re-enforce our Army of the West, -"beloved while living, and regretted after death, by all who knew -him," Hughes, Doniphan's Exped., 1847, p. 53. His valuable Mississippi -report, completed at Fort Dearborn (Chicago), Nov. 25th, 1833, was -transmitted to Congr. by Hon. Lewis Cass, Sec. of War, Apr. 11th, -1834, and published in Amer. State Papers, Class V. Milit. Affairs, V. -Ex. Doc. No. 579, 1st Session, 23d Congr., folio, pp. 312-344, and -map. - -The illustrious name of Jean Nicolas Nicollet is first in time on the -roll of those who have applied modern methods of exact and exacting -science to the geography of the West. Nicollet is most highly -appreciated by those who are themselves most worthy of appreciation -and most competent critics. Thus, Gen. G. K. Warren pronounces -Nicollet's map "one of the greatest contributions ever made to -American geography." It will stand forever as the sound basis of -knowledge on the subject. Notices of Nicollet's life and work are -found in: Trans. Assoc. Amer. Geol. and Nat., 1840-42, Boston, 1843, -pp. 32-34; Amer. Journ. Sci., 1st ser., XLVII. p. 139, sketch by Prof. -H. D. Rogers; Minn. Hist. Coll., I. (of 1850-56), 2d ed. 1872, pp. -183-195, memoir by Gen. H. H. Sibley; VI. 1891, pp. 242-245, being -reminiscences in the autobiography of Maj. Lawrence Taliaferro; and -VII. 1893, pp. 155-165, notice by J. V. Brower with portrait; Ann. -Rep. Smiths. Inst., 1870, p. 194; Frémont's Memoirs, I. pp. 30-72, -_passim_; notice in Educational Reporter Extra, Oct., 1886, by H. D. -Harrower; and especially N. H. Winchell, Amer. Geol., VIII. Dec., -1891, pp. 343-352, with portrait and best biography. N. was b. at -Cluses in Savoy, 1790; d. Baltimore, Md., Sept. 11th, 1843. He was a -watchmaker's apprentice till æt. 18; was a natural musician; studied -languages and mathematics, and in 1818 published an article which -became noted in the annals of insurance for its calculations on -probable duration of human life; he wrote others of similar character; -1819 to 1828, he published various mathematical and astronomical -treatises; was decorated in 1825 with the Cross of the Legion of -Honor; at one time held a professorship in the Royal College of Louis -Le Grand; was also an inspector of naval schools; he was in high -esteem, and made money. But the fickle goddess of fortune ceased to -smile; he made business ventures which failed, and cost him all his -worldly goods and all his fair-weather friends; in 1832 he was a poor -refugee in the United States. But his amiable character, his -accomplishments, his great talents, and greater genius were more -conspicuous in adversity than they had been in prosperity. He made -friends everywhere, among them some in high stations, able to estimate -his abilities and glad to use his services. Under the auspices of the -War Department, and with the personal attentions of such men as Pierre -Chouteau, Jr., Gen. Sibley, and Maj. Taliaferro, he was enabled to -make, 1833-39, those several explorations and surveys which resulted -in his Map and Report--a work which would have done credit to anyone -under any circumstances, but one which only a Nicollet could have -accomplished under the actual conditions. In 1840 and 1841 he was on -office duty in Washington, reducing his field-work and preparing his -map, which latter was drawn under his direction by Lieuts. J. C. -Frémont and E. P. Scammon. This was completed probably in 1840, as it -had been submitted to Congress and ordered to be printed, Feb. 16th, -1841. But the hardships he had endured in the field had undermined his -frail physique; the further drafts upon his balance of vitality were -overdrawn; and the fatal blow was given by Arago, who defeated his -election to the French Academy. "Pas même un Academicien," this great -soul never wore the crown of his life. His work was published under -the editorship of Gen. J. J. Abert, to whom science is indebted in -many ways--perhaps in no one of these more than in the recognition of -the merits of the gentle Savoyard, and consequently the steps he took -to facilitate and complete Nicollet's labors. The publication forms -Doc. No. 237, 26th Congr., 2d Session, entitled: Report intended to -illustrate a Map of the Hydrographical Basin of the Upper Mississippi -River, made by I. [_sic_] N. Nicollet, etc., 1 vol, 8vo, Washington, -Blair and Rives, 1843, pp. 1-170, map, 30¾ × 37 inches; also pub. as -Ex. Doc. No. 52, Ho. Reps., 2d Sess., 28th Congr. The report is -officially addressed to Colonel Abert; the original journals and other -MSS. were to be deposited in the Bureau of the Corps of Topographical -Engineers, Sept. 13th, 1843. I have examined the original map, from -which the published one was engraved, not without some variant -lettering here and there; it is now in bad condition, very brittle, -and would soon go to pieces if often unrolled without great care in -handling it. I think it should be renovated, without delay, and put in -the best possible condition for permanent preservation. - -July 26th, 1836, Nicollet went from Fort Snelling to the Falls of St. -Anthony, with Lieutenants S. N. Plummer, G. W. Shaw, and James -McClure, to see him off; 29th, he was ascending the river; at the -mouth of the Crow Wing he left the Mississippi, ascended the former to -Gayashk or Gull r., went from this to Pine r., visited Kadikomeg or -Whitefish l. thence up E. fork of Pine r. to Kwiwisens or Boy r., and -down this into Leech l., where he spent a week, mostly camped on Otter -Tail pt., where resided his principal guide, Francis Brunet--"a man -six feet three inches high--a giant of great strength, but at the same -time full of the milk of human kindness and, withal, an excellent -natural geographer." He found here Mr. Boutwell, who was good enough -to help him out of some sort of a scrape the Chippewas got him into. -He left Leech l. in a bark canoe with Brunet, another man named -Desiré, and a Chippewa whose name he renders Kegwedzissag, since -spelled Gaygwedosay and applied to a creek which runs into present Elk -l. He crossed several small lakes and came to one he calls -Kabe-Konang--not the same as Schoolcraft's Kubba Kunna, which latter -is the one S. called Lake Plantagenet, and is on Nicollet's Laplace r. -He continued up Kabekonang r., made a 5-m. portage to Laplace r. -(which is also called Naiwa, Yellow Head, and Schoolcraft's r., being -the Plantagenet fork of the Miss. r.), and ascended it to a position 1 -m. south of Assawa l., where he found the traces of a camp used four -years before by the Schoolcraft party. Next morning he was up at 4.30, -preparing for the 6-m. portage to Lake Itasca across the Big -Burning--by no means an easy thing; the ground was very bad, and the -mosquitoes as bad as they knew how to be. Brunet carried the canoe, -weighing 110-115 lbs.; Desiré and Kegwedzissag had each a load of -85-90 lbs.; while poor Nicollet had a full burden in proportion to the -powers of the slight and frail body that was so soon, alas! to fail -him altogether. "I had about 35 pounds' weight unequally distributed -upon my body.... I carried my sextant on my back in a leather case -thrown over me as a knapsack; then my barometer slung over my left -shoulder; my cloak thrown over the same shoulder confined the -barometer closely against the sextant; a portfolio under the arm; a -basket in hand which contained my thermometer, chronometer, pocket -compass, artificial horizon, tape-line, &c. On the right side, a -spy-glass, powder-flask, and shot-bag; and in my hand a gun or an -umbrella according to circumstances. Such was my accoutrement." Though -Nicollet estimated his load at only 35 pounds, it was an awkward one -to manage, and more than he should have undertaken to carry through -such a place; his head swam more than once, he lost his way, got -bogged several times, and only extricated himself by scrambling along -slippery and decayed tree-trunks. However, he reached Itasca safely, -two hours after the rest, pitched his tent on the island, and -proceeded to adjust his artificial horizon. During the three days -spent in exploring the basin he made those minute and precise -observations which will forever associate his honored name with -Mississippian discovery. His approach to the spot duplicated Mr. -Schoolcraft's; but the comparison need not be pushed further--it -cannot be. Nicollet's return was by way of the main stream to Lake -Cass and thence to Leech l.--where, by the way, he had a conference -with that sagacious savage Eshkibogikoj, otherwise Gueule Platte or -Flat Mouth, with whom he took tea "out of fine china-ware" and spent -evenings "full of instruction." Of the fine work he did at Lake -Itasca, I must quote his own modest words: "The honor of having first -explored the sources of the Mississippi and introduced a knowledge of -them in physical geography, belongs to Mr. Schoolcraft and Lieutenant -Allen. I come only after these gentleman; but I may be permitted to -claim some merit for having completed what was wanting for a full -geographical account of these sources. Moreover, I am, I believe, the -first traveler who has carried with him astronomical instruments, and -put them to profitable account along the whole course of the -Mississippi, from its mouth to its sources." He might well have -claimed more than this; for, aside from all topographic and -hydrographic details, what he discovered, determined, and described -was the Mississippi itself above Lake Itasca. His praise is greatest -in the mouths of wisest censure, and for once in the history of -discovery no one withholds from modest merit and signal achievement -their just dues. - -The length of this note warns me to resist the temptation to pursue -post-Nicolletian exploration and touring--through the names of Charles -Lanman, 1846; Rev. Frederick Ayer and son, 1849; Wm. Bungo, 1865; -Julius Chambers, of the New York Herald's "Dolly Varden" expedition, -1872; James H. Baker, in official capacities, 1875-79; Edwin S. Hall, -U. S. surveyor, 1875; A. H. Siegfried, representing the Louisville -Courier-Journal's "Rob Roy" expedition, 1879; O. E. Garrison, 1880; W. -E. Neal, 1880 and 1881; Rev. J. A. Gilfillan and Prof. Cooke, in May, -1881, the same year that one X. Y. Z. exploited his fraud--to that of -J. V. Brower, 1888-94. The scandalous episode in a record otherwise -honorable to all concerned may be read in all its unsavory particulars -in the able exposés made by Mr. H. D. Harrower, entitled: Captain -Glazier and his Lake, etc., pub. Ivison, Blakeman, Taylor and Co., -N. Y., Oct., 1886, pp. 1-58, with 9 maps; by Mr. Hopewell Clarke, in -Science and Education, I. No 2, Dec. 24th, 1886, pp. 45-57, with 5 -maps; by Hon. James H. Baker, in the report entitled: The Sources of -the Mississippi. Their Discoveries, real and pretended, read before -the Minn. His. Soc., Feb. 8th, 1887, and published as Vol. VI., Pt. I, -of that society's Collections, pp. 28; and by Commissioner Brower, pp. -191-209 of his elaborate and exhaustive monograph, pub. 1893, to which -I am greatly indebted, and to which reference should be made for -further details, whether in the history or the geography of the -Mississippian sources. Nicollet is the pivotal point upon which the -whole matter turns from Morrison to Brower, 1804-1894. - -Some Additional Facts about Nicollet, not given on my foregoing pages, -may be found in Horace V. Winchell's article, Amer. Geologist, Vol. -XIII, pp. 126-128, Feb., 1894. The date of birth is there given as -July 24th, 1786 (not 1790); the name, as Joseph (not Jean) Nicolas -Nicollet; and the place of death, as Washington, D. C. (not Baltimore, -Md.); the date is the same--Sept. 11th, 1843. - - - - -CHAPTER VIII. - -ETHNOGRAPHY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.[VIII-1] - - -The first nation of Indians whom we met with in ascending the -Mississippi from St. Louis were the Sauks, who principally reside in -four villages. The first at the head of the rapids De Moyen on the W. -shore, consisting of 13 log lodges; the second on a prairie on the E. -shore, about 60 miles above; the third on the Riviere De Roche, about -three miles from the entrance; and the fourth on the river Iowa. - -They hunt on the Mississippi and its confluent streams, from the -Illinois to the river Des Iowa; and on the plains west of them, which -border the Missouri. They are so perfectly consolidated with the -Reynards[VIII-2] that they scarcely can be termed a distinct nation; but -recently there appears to be a schism between the two nations, the -latter not approving of the insolence and ill-will which has marked -the conduct of the former toward the United States on many late -occurrences. They have for many years past, under the auspices of the -Sioux, made war on the Sauteaux, Osages, and Missouries; but as -recently a peace has been made between them and the nations of the -Missouri through the influence of the United States, and by the same -means between the Sioux and Sauteaux, their principal allies, it -appears that it would by no means be a difficult matter to induce them -to make a general peace, and pay still greater attention to the -cultivation of the earth; as they now raise a considerable quantity of -corn, beans, and melons. The character that they bear with their -savage brethren is that they are much more to be dreaded for their -deceit and inclination for stratagem than for their open courage. - -The Reynards reside in three villages. The first is on the W. side of -the Mississippi, six miles above the rapids of the River De Roche; the -second is about 12 miles in the rear of the lead mines; and the third -is on Turkey river, half a league from its entrance. They are engaged -in the same wars and have the same alliances as the Sauks, with whom -they must be considered as indissoluble in war or peace. They hunt on -both sides of the Mississippi from the Iowa, below Prairie Des Chiens -to a river of that name [Upper Iowa], above said village. They raise a -great quantity of corn, beans, and melons; the former of those -articles in such quantities as to sell many hundred bushels per annum. - -The Iowas reside on the De Moyen and Iowa rivers in two villages. They -hunt on the W. side of the Mississippi, the De Moyen, and westward to -the Missouri; their wars and alliances are the same as those of the -Sauks and Reynards, under whose special protection they conceive -themselves to be. They cultivate some corn, but not so much in -proportion as the Sauks and Reynards. Their residence being on the -small streams in the rear of the Mississippi, out of the highroad of -commerce, renders them less civilized than those nations. - -The Sauks, Reynards, and Iowas, since the treaty of the two former -with the United States [in 1804], claim the land from the entrance of -the Jauflioni [see note 14, p. 11], on the W. side of the -Mississippi, up the latter river to the Des Iowa, above Prairie Des -Chiens, and westward to the Missouri; but the limits between -themselves are undefined. All the land formerly claimed by those -nations E. of the Mississippi is now ceded to the United States; but -they have reserved to themselves the privilege of hunting and residing -on it, as usual. - -By killing the celebrated Sauk chief Pontiac, the Illinois, Cahokias, -Kaskaskias, and Piorias kindled a war with the allied nations of -Sauks and Reynards, which has been the cause of the almost entire -destruction of the former nations. - -The Winebagos or Puants are a nation who reside on the rivers -Ouiscousing, De Roche, Fox, and Green Bay, in seven villages, which -are situated as follows: 1st, at the entrance of Green Bay; 2d, at the -end of Green Bay; 3d, at Wuckan [Lake Poygan], on Fox river; 4th, at -Lake Puckway; 5th, at the portage of the Ouiscousing; 6th and 7th, on -Roche river. - -Those villages are so situated that the Winebagos can embody the whole -force of their nation, at any one point of their territory, in four -days. They hunt on the Ouiscousing and Rock rivers, and E. side of the -Mississippi, from Rock river to Prairie Des Chiens; on Lake Michigan, -Black river, and in the country between Lakes Michigan, Huron, and -Superior. From the tradition amongst them, and their speaking the same -language as the Otos of the Riviere Platte, I am confident in -asserting that they are a nation who have emigrated from Mexico to -avoid the oppression of the Spaniards; and the time may be fixed at -about 1½ centuries past, when they were taken under the protection of -the Sioux, to whom they still profess to owe faith, and at least -brotherly attention. They have formerly been at war with the nations -west of the Mississippi, but appear recently to have laid down the -hatchet. They are reputed brave, but from every circumstance their -neighbors distinguish their bravery as the ferocity of a tiger, rather -than the deliberate resolution of a man; and recently their conduct -has been such as to authorize the remark made by a chief of a -neighboring nation, that "a white man never should lie down to sleep -without precaution in their villages." - -The Menomene or Fols Avoins, as they are termed by the French, reside -in seven villages, situated as follows: 1st, at the Menomene river, 15 -leagues from Green Bay, on the north side of the lake; 2d, at Green -Bay; 3d, at Little Kakalin; 4th, at portage of Kakalin; 5th, on -Stinking Lake [Winnebago]; 6th, at the entrance of a small lake [Lac -Butte des Morts] on Fox river; and 7th, behind the Bank of the Dead -[Butte des Morts]. Their hunting-grounds are similar to those of the -Winebagos; only that, owing to the very high estimation in which they -are held both by Sioux and Chipeways, they are frequently permitted to -hunt near Raven river on the Mississippi, which may be termed the -battle-ground between those two great nations. The language which they -speak is singular, for no white man has ever yet been known to acquire -it; but this may probably be attributed to their understanding the -Algonquin, in which they and the Winebagos transact all conferences -with the whites or other nations; and the facility with which that -language is acquired is a further reason for its prevalence. - -The Fols Avoins, although a small nation, are respected by all their -neighbors for their bravery and independent spirit, and esteemed by -the whites as their friends and protectors. When in the country I -heard their chief assert in council with the Sioux and Chipeways, that -although they were reduced to few in number, yet they could say, "we -never were slaves," as they had always preferred that their women and -children should die by their own hands, to their being led into -slavery by their enemies. The boundary of their territory is -uncertain. The Sauks, Reynards, Puants, and Menomenes all reside, when -not at their villages, in lodges in the form of an ellipsis; some are -from 30 to 40 feet in length by 14 or 15 wide, and are sufficiently -large to shelter 60 people from the storm, or for 20 to reside in. -Their covering is rushes plaited into mats, and carefully tied to the -poles. In the center are the fires, immediately over which is a small -vacancy in the lodge, which in fair weather is sufficient to give vent -to the smoke; but in bad weather you must lie down on the ground to -prevent being considerably incommoded by it. - -We next come to that powerful nation the Sioux, the dread of whom is -extended over all the Savage nations, from the confluence of the -Mississippi and Missouri to Raven river on the former, and to the -Snake [Shoshone] Indians on the latter. But in those limits are many -nations whom they consider as allies, on a similar footing with the -allies of ancient Rome, _i. e._, humble dependents. But the Chipeway -nation is an exception, who have maintained a long contest with them, -owing to their country being intersected by numerous small lakes, -water-courses, impenetrable morasses, and swamps; and have hitherto -bid defiance to all the attacks of their neighbors. It is necessary to -divide the Sioux nation into the different bands, as distinguished -amongst themselves, in order to have a correct idea of them. - -Agreeably to this plan, I shall begin with the Minowa Kantong -[Mdewakantonwans] or Gens De Lac, who extend from Prairie Des Chiens -to La Prairie du Francois [vicinity of Shakopee, Chaska, etc.], 35 -miles up the St. Peters. This band is again subdivided into four -divisions, under different chiefs. The first of these most generally -reside at their village on the Upper Iowa river, above Prairie Des -Chiens, and are commanded by Wabasha, a chief whose father was -considered as the first chief of all the Sioux nation. This -subdivision hunts on both sides of the Mississippi and its confluent -streams, from Prairie Des Chiens to the riviere du Boeuff. The second -subdivision resides near the head of Lake Pepin, and hunts from the -riviere du Boeuff to near the St. Croix. Their chief's name is -Tantangamani--a very celebrated war-chief. The third subdivision -resides between the riviere au Canon and the entrance of the St. -Peters, headed by Chatewaconamani. Their principal hunting-ground is -on the St. Croix. They have a village [Kapoja] at a place called Grand -Marais [Pig's Eye lake], 15 miles below the entrance of the St. -Peters. It is situated on the east bank of the Mississippi, and -consists of 11 log huts. The fourth subdivision is situated from the -entrance of the St. Peters to the Prairie Des Francois; they are -headed by a chief called Chatamutah, but a young man, Wyaganage, has -recently taken the lead in all the councils and affairs of state of -this sub-band. They have one village, nine miles up the St. Peters, on -the N. side. This band (Minowa Kantong) are reputed the bravest of -all the Sioux, and have for years been opposed to the Fols Avoin -Sauteurs, who are reputed the bravest of all the numerous bands of -Chipeways. - -The second band of Sioux are the Washpetong [Waqpetonwan] or Gens Des -Fieulles [Feuilles], who inhabit the country from the Prairie De -Francois to near Roche Blanche, on the St. Peters. Their first chief -is Wasonquianni. They hunt on the St. Peters, also on the Mississippi, -up Rum river, and sometimes follow the buffalo on the plains. Their -subdivisions I am unacquainted with. - -The third band are the Sussitongs [Sisitonwans or Sissetons]; they -extend from the Roche Blanche [White Rock] to Lac de Gross Roche [Big -Stone or Inyantonka lake], on the river St. Peters; they are divided -into two subdivisions. The first, called the Cawrees [Kahras], are -headed by the chief called Wuckiew Nutch or Tonnere Rouge [Red -Thunder]. The second, the Sussitongs proper, are headed by Wacantoe or -Esprit Blue [Blue Spirit]. These two sub-bands hunt eastward to the -Mississippi, and up that river as far as the Riviere De Corbeau. - -The fourth great band are the Yanctongs [Ihanktonwans or Yanktons], -who are dispersed from the Montaignes [Coteau] De la Prairie, which -extends from St. Peters to the Missouri, to the De Moyen. They are -divided into two grand divisions, generally termed Yanctongs of the -North, and Yanctongs of the South [Yanktonnais and Yanktons]. The -former are headed by a chief called Muckpeanutah or Nuage Rouge [Red -Cloud]; and those of the Prairie, by Petessung. This band are never -stationary, but with the Titongs are the most erratic of all the -Sioux, sometimes to be found on the borders of the Lower Red River, -sometimes on the Missouri, and on those immense plains which are -between the two rivers. - -The fifth great band are the Titongs [Titonwans, commonly called -Tetons], who are dispersed on both sides of the Missouri; on the -north, principally from the river Chienne [Cheyenne] up; and on the -south, from the Mahas [Omahas] to the Minetares, or Gross Ventres -[Hidatsas]. They may be divided into the Titongs of the North and -South; but the immense plains over which they rove with the Yanctongs -renders it impossible to point out their place of habitation. - -The sixth, last, and smallest band of the Sioux are the Washpecoute -[Waqpekute or Wahkpakotoan], who reside generally on the lands west of -the Mississippi, between that river and the Missouri. They hunt most -generally on the head of the De Moyen. They appeared to me to be the -most stupid and inactive of all the Sioux. - -The Minowa Kantongs are the only band of Sioux who use canoes, and by -far the most civilized, being the only ones who have ever built log -huts, or cultivated any species of vegetables, and among those only a -very small quantity of corn and beans; for, although I was with them -in September or October, I never saw one kettle of either, they always -using wild oats for bread. This production nature has furnished to all -the most uncultivated nations of the N. W. continent, who may gather -in autumn a sufficiency which, when added to the productions of the -chase and the net, insures them a subsistence through all the seasons -of the year. This band is entirely armed with firearms, but is not -considered by the other bands as anything superior on that account, -especially on the plains. - -The Washpetong are a roving band; they leave the St. Peters in the -month of April, and do not return from the plains until the middle of -August. The Sussitongs of Roche Blanche have the character of being -the most evil-disposed Indians on the St. Peters. They likewise follow -the buffalo in the spring and summer months. The Sussitongs of Lac de -Gross Roche [Big Stone Lake], under Tonnere Rouge, have the character -of good hunters and brave warriors, which may principally be -attributed to their chief, Tonnere Rouge, who at the present day is -allowed by both white people and the savages of the different bands to -be (after their own chiefs) the first man in the Sioux nation. The -Yanctongs and Titongs are the most independent Indians in the world; -they follow the buffalo as chance directs, clothing themselves with -the skins, and making their lodges, bridles, and saddles of the same -materials, the flesh of the animal furnishing their food. Possessing -innumerable herds of horses, they are here this day, 500 miles off ten -days hence, and find themselves equally at home in either place, -moving with a rapidity scarcely to be imagined by the inhabitants of -the civilized world. - -The trade of the Minowa Kantongs, Washpetongs, Sussitongs, and part of -the Yanctongs, is all derived from the traders of Michilimackinac; and -the latter of those two bands supply the Yanctongs of the North and -Titongs with the small quantities of iron works [hardware] which they -require. Firearms are not in much estimation with them. The -Washpecoute trade principally with the people of Prairie Des Chiens; -but for a more particular explanation of this subject, please to refer -to the table.[VIII-3] - -_Abstract of the Nations of Indians on the Mississippi and its -confluent streams from St. Louis, Louisiana, to its source, including -Red Lake and Lower Red River._ - - TABLE LEGEND: - Column A = Warriors. - Column B = Women. - Column C = Children. - Column D = Villages. - Column E = Probable Souls. - Column F = Lodges of Roving Bands. - Column G = Fire Arms. - Column H = Primitive Language. - Column I = Traders or Bands with whom they traffic. - Column J = Annual Consumption of Merchandise. - Column K = Annual return of Peltry in packs. - - ======================================+====+=====+=====+===+=====+====+===== - | | | | | | | - Names. | | | | | | | - | | | | | | | - --------------+-----------+-----------+ | | | | | | - | | | | | | | | | - English. | Indian. | French. | A. | B. | C. | D.| E. | F. | G. - | | | | | | | | | - --------------+-----------+-----------+----+-----+-----+---+-----+----|----- - | | | | | | | | | - I. Sauks |Sawkee |Saque | 700| 750| 1400| 3| 2850| | 700 - | | | | | | | | | - | | | | | | | | | - | | | | | | | | | - II. Foxes |Ottagaumie |Reynards | 400| 500| 850| 3| 1750| | 400 - | | | | | | | | | - | | | | | | | | | - | | | | | | | | | - | | | | | | | | | - | | | | | | | | | - III. Iowas |Aiowais |Ne Perce | 300| 400| 700| 2| 1400| | 250 - | | | | | | | | | - | | | | | | | | | - | | | | | | | | | - | | | | | | | | | - IV. Winebagos |Ochangras |Puants | 450| 500| 1000| 7| 1950| | 450 - | | | | | | | | | - | | | | | | | | | - V. Menomenes |Menomene |Fols Avoin | 300| 350| 700| 7| 1350| | 300 - | | +----+-----+-----+---+---- +----+---- - | |[Total of | | | | | | | - | |the above] |2150| 2500| 4650| 22| 9300| |2100 - | | +----+-----+-----+---+-----+----+---- - | | | | | | | | | - VI. Sues |Narcotah |Sioux | | | | | | | - | | | | | | | | | - 1. People of |Minowa |Gens du | 305| 600| 1200| 3| 2105| 125| 305 - the Lakes |Kantong | Lac | | | | | | | - | | | | | | | | | - | | | | | | | | | - 2. People of |Washpetong |Gens des | 180| 350| 530| | 1060| 70| 160 - the Leaves | |Feuilles | | | | | | | - | | | | | | | | | - | | | | | | | | | - 3. Sissitons |Sussitongs |Sussitongs | 360| 700| 1100| | 2160| 155| 260 - | | | | | | | | | - | | | | | | | | | - 4. Yanktons |Yanctong |Yanctong | 900| 1600| 2700| | 4300| 270| 350 - | | | | | | | | | - | | | | | | | | | - 5. Tetons |Titong |Titong |2000| 3600| 6000| |11600| 600| 100 - | | | | | | | | | - | | | | | | | | | - 6. People of |Washpecoute|Gens des | 90| 180| 270| | 450| 50| 90 - the Leaves | [*] |Feuilles | | | | | | | - detached [*] | |tirees[*] | | | | | | | - | | +----+-----+-----+---+-----+----+---- - | |Total |3835| 6433|11800| 3|21675|1270|1270 - | |[Sioux] +----+-----+-----+---+-----+----+---- - | | | | | | | | | - VII. Chipeways|Ouchipawah |Sauteurs | | | | | | | - | | | | | | | | | - 1. Leapers | |Sauteurs | | | | | | | - | |proper | | | | | | | - | | | | | | | | | - |Of Sandy | | 45| 79| 224| | 345| 24| - |Lake[+] | | | | | | | | - | | | | | | | | | - |Of Leech | | 150| 280| 690| | 1120| 65| - |Lake[+] | | | | | | | | - | | | | | | | | | - |Of Red Lake| | 150| 260| 610| | 1020| 64| - |Lake[+] | | | | | | | | - | | | | | | | | | - 2. Of St. | | | | | | | | | - Croix and | | | | | | | | | - Chipeway r. | | | 104| 165| 420| | 689| 50| - | | | | | | | | | - 3. Of the | | | | | | | | | - other bands | | | | | | | | | - generally | | |1600| 2400| 4000| | 8000| 400| - | | | | | | | | | - | | +----+-----+-----+---+-----+----+---- - | |Total |2049| 3184| 5944| |11177| 630|2049 - | |[Chippewas]+----+-----+-----+---+-----+----+---- - | | | | | | | | | - | |[Grand |8034|12114|22394| 25|45152|1873|5414 - | |total] | | | | | | | - ==============+===========+===========+====+=====+=====+===+=====+====+==== - - ==============+===========+=================+=====+====+=================== - | | | | | - English | H. | I. | J. | K. | Species of - Names | | | | | Peltry. - | | | | | - --------------+-----------+-----------------+-----+----+------------------- - | {|Michilimackinac, | | |Deer, some bear, - I. Sauks |Sauk {|St. Louis, |15000| 600|a few otter, - | {|people of Prairie| | |beaver, racoon. - | {|des Chiens | | | - | | | | | - II. Foxes |Sauk, with | do. | 8500| 400| Deer, a few bear, - |a small | | | | with a small - |difference | | | | proportion more - |in the | | | | of furs. - |idiom | | | | - | | | | | - III. Iowas |Missouries |Michilimackinac |10000| 300| Deer, bear, otter, - | | | | | beaver, mink, - | | | | | racoon, gray fox, - | | | | | muskrat. - | | | | | - IV. Winebagos |Missouries,| do. | 9000| 200| Same as the - |or Zoto | | | | Fox's. - | | | | | - V. Menomenes |Menomene | do. | 9000| 250| Beaver, marten, - | | | | | gray fox, mink, - | | | | | muskrat, otter, - | | | | | deer, elk, &c. - | | | | | - VI. Sues | | | | | - | | | | | - 1. People of |Narcotah | do. |13500| 230| Deer, a few bear, - the Lakes | | | | | some beaver, - | | | | | racoon, &c. - | | | | | - 2. People of | do. | do. | 6000| 115| Deer, a few - the Leaves | | | | | buffalo-robes - | | | | | some beaver, - | | | | | otter, mink, &c. - | | | | | - 3. Sissitons | do. | do. |12500| 160| Deer, many - | | | | | buffalo-robe furs - | | | | | from Raven river. - | | | | | - | | | | | - 4. Yanktons | do. | do. | 8000| 130| Principally - | | | | | buffalo-robes. - | | | | | - 5. Tetons | do. |Yanktongs and | | | Buffalo-robes. - | |some Sussitongs | | | - | | | | | - 6. People of | do. |People of | 2000| 50| Deer, beaver, - the Leaves | |Prairies des | | | otter, bear - detached | |Chiens and on | | | &c. - | |head of de Moyen | | | - | | | | | - VII. Chipeways| | | | | - | | | | | - 1. Leapers | | | | | - | | | | | - Of Sandy |Algonquin |N. W. Company[++]| | | Beaver, muskrats, - Lake | | | | | otter, marten, - | | | | | black and - | | | | | silver fox &c. - | | | | | - Of Leech Lake | do. | do. | | | do. - | | | | | - | | | | | - Of Red Lake | do. | do. | | | do. - | | | | | - 2. Of St. | do. | do. | | | do. - Croix and | | | | | - Chipeway r. | | | | | - | | | | | - 3. Of the | do. |N. W. Co. |Un- | | Unknown. - other bands | |and others |cer- | | - generally | | |tain | | - ==============+===========+=================+=====+====+=================== - - ==============+====================+====================+================== - English | Best Positions | With whom | With whom at - Names | for | | peace or in - | Trading-Posts. | at war. | alliance. - --------------+--------------------+--------------------+------------------ - I. Sauks | Head of rapid |Chipeways |Reynards, Puants, - | de Moyen | |Sioux, Osage, - | | |Potowatomies, Fols - | | |Avoins, Ioways, - | | |all nations of the - | | |Missouri - | | | - II. Foxes | Giard's river, | do. | do. - | nearly opp. | | - | Prairie des | | - | Chiens, confluence | | - | of Miss. | | - | and Ouiscousing | | - | | | - III. Iowas | Rivers de Moyen | do. | do. - | and Iowa | | - | | | - IV. Winebagos | Portage de Cockalin|Since the peace |In alliance with - | (on Fox river) or |between Osages, |Sauks, Reynards, - | at Grand Calumet |Sauks and Reynards, |Sioux, Fols - | |Puants have tacitly |Avoins, &c., at - | |ceased war on the |peace with all - | |former |others - | | | - V. Menomenes | Portage des Perre, |None |In alliance with - | on Fox river | |Ottoway, Chipeway, - | | |Ochangras - | | | - VI. Sues | | | - | | | - 1. People of | Entrance St. Croix |Recently, Chipeways;| - the Lakes | |now at peace; at war|Sauks, Reynards, - | |with Assinniboins |Ioways, - | |and some nations on |Fols Avoins - | |the Missouri | - | | | - 2. People of | Little Rapids, | do. | do. - the Leaves | St. Peters | | - | | | - 3. Sissitons | Lac de Gross Roche,| do. | do. - | St. Peters | | - | | | - 4. Yanktons | | | - | | | - 5. Tetons | |Various nations of | do. - | |the Missouri | - | | | - 6. People of | Prairie des Chiens | do. | do. - the Leaves | | | - detached | | | - | | | - - VII. Chipeways| | | - | | | - 1. Leapers | | | - | | | - Of Sandy Lake | Sandy Lake |Recently, Sioux; |Fols Avoins, - | |now at peace; at war|all nations of - | |with Sauks, Foxes, |Canada - | |Iowas | - | | | - Of Leech Lake | Leech Lake | do. | do. - | | | - Of Red Lake | Red Lake | do. | do. - | | | - 2. Of St. | South side of | do. | do. - Croix and | Lake Superior | | - Chipeway r. | | | - | | | - 3. Of the | | | - other bands | | | - generally | | | - ==============+====================+====================+================== - - =============+==============================================+================= - Names | Names of Chiefs or Principal Men. | - -------------+---------------+--------------+---------------+ Remarks. - English | Indian. | French. | English. | - -------------+---------------+--------------+---------------+----------------- - I. Sauks |Washione | | | - |Pockquinike |Bras Casse |Broken Arm | - | | | | - II. Foxes |Olopier | | |First Chief - |Pecit |Petit Corbeau |Little Raven | - |Akaque |Peau Blanche |White Skin |Killed the Osage - | | | |on their way to - | | | |St. Louis; now - | | | |raising a war- - | | | |party to strike - | | | |the Sauteaux - | | | | - III. Iowas | | | | - | | | | - IV. Winebagos|New Okat | | |First chief; com- - |Sansamani | | |missioned as such - |Chenoway's Son | | |Commissioned - |Karamone | | | do. - |Du Quarre | | | do. - |Macraragah | | | do. - | | | | - V. Menomenes |Tomaw |Thomas Carron |Thomas Carron |First chief; - |Shawonoe | | |received com- - |Neckech | | |mission as such, - | | | |and flag - | | | | - | | | |Literally - | | | |translated; first - VI. Sues |Wabasha |La Feuille |The Leaf |chief of the - | | | |nation; received - | | | |a commission - | | | |and a flag - | | | | - 1. People of |Talangamane |Aile Rouge |Red Wing | do. - the Lakes |Chatewaconamani|Petit Corbeau |Little Raven |Received com- - | | | |mission and flag - |Tahamie |Orignal Leve |Rising Moose |Literally - | | | |translated - |Tatamane |Nez Corbeau |Raven Nose |Literally Wind - | | | |that Walks; - | | | |commissioned - | | | | - 2. People of |Wasonquianni |Araignee Jaune|Yellow Spider |First chief of - the Leaves | | | |the nation - |Wukunsna |Tonnerre qui |Rolling Thunder|Literally - | |Sonne | |translated - |Houho Otah |Le Noyeau |Stone of Fruit |Received a com- - | | | |mission and flag - | | | | - 3. Sissitons |Wacanto |Esprit Bleu |Blue Spirit |First chief of - | | | |his band - |Waminisabah |Killieu Noir |Black Eagle |Literally - | | | |translated - |Itoye |Gross Calumet |Big Pipe | - |Wuckiew Nutch |Tonnerre Rouge|Red Thunder |Literal - | | | |translation; - | | | |first chief of - | | | |all the Sioux - | | | | - 4. Yanktons |Petessung |Vache Blanche |White Buffalo |Literally - | | | |translated - |Muckpeanutah |Nuage Rouge |Red Cloud |Literally - | | | |translated; - |Champanage | | |first chief of - | | | |the nation - | | | | - 5. Tetons |Chantaoeteka |Coeur Mauvais |Bad Heart |Bois Brulle - |Shenouskar |Couverte |White Blanket |Okandanda - | |Blanche | | - | | | | - 6. People of |Wamaneopenutah |Coe ur du |Heart of the | - the Leaves | |Killeur Rouge |Red Eagle | - detached |Tantangashatah |Boeuf qui Joue |Playing Buffalo|Literal - | | | |translation - |Kachiwasigon |Corbeau |French Raven | do. - | | Francois | | - | | | | - VII. Chippeways | | | - | | | | - 1. Leapers | | | | - | | | | - Of Sandy Lake|Catawabata |De Breche |Broken Teeth |First chief of - | | | |his band - | | | | - Of Leech Lake|Eskibugeckoge |Geuelle Platte|Flat Mouth | do. - |Obigouitte |Chef de la |Chief of the | - | |Terre |Land | - |Oole |La Brule |The Burnt | - | | | | - Of Red Lake |Wiscoup |Le Sucre |The Sweet | do. - | | | | - 2. Of St. |Necktame |Preinier |Head Chief |Resides on Lac - Croix and | |[Premier] | |La Pluir river. - Chipeway r. | | | | - =============+===============+==============+===============+=============== - -N. B.--Wyaganage, or Fils de Pinchow, a chief of Gens du Lac, and head -of village at entrance of St. Peters, omitted; has received flag and -commission. [Z. M. P.] - -[N. B.--Total of Sacs, Foxes, Iowas, Winnebagoes, and Menomonees, and -Grand Total, embodied from the "Recapitulation," which was on separate -leaf (unpaged p. 66) of orig. ed.--E. C.] - -[*] This is merely a band of vagabonds, formed by refugees from all -other bands, which they left for some bad deed. - -[+] From actual estimate. - -[++] See my Reports on the trade of the N. W. Company. - - -The claims of limits of the Sioux nation are allowed by all their -neighbors to commence at Prairie Des Chiens, and ascend the -Mississippi on both sides to the Riviere De Corbeau; up that river to -its source; thence to the source of the St. Peters; thence to the -Montaigne De La Prairie; thence to the Missouri; down that river to -the Mahas, bearing thence N. E. to the source of the De Moyen; and -thence to the place of beginning. They also claim a large territory -south of the Missouri, but how far it extends is uncertain. The -country E. of the Mississippi, from Rum river to the Riviere De -Corbeau, is likewise in dispute between them and the Chipeways, and -has been the scene of many a sharp encounter for near 150 years past. - -From my knowledge of the Sioux nation, I do not hesitate to pronounce -them the most warlike and independent nation of Indians within the -boundaries of the United States, their every passion being subservient -to that of war; at the same time that their traders feel themselves -perfectly secure of any combination being made against themselves, it -is extremely necessary to be careful not to injure the honor or -feelings of an individual, which is certainly the principal cause of -the many broils which occur between them. But never was a trader known -to suffer in the estimation of the nation by resenting any indignity -offered him, even if it went to taking the life of the offender. Their -guttural pronunciation, high cheek bones, their visages, and distinct -manners, together with their own traditions, supported by the -testimony of neighboring nations, puts it in my mind beyond the shadow -of a doubt that they have emigrated from the N. W. point of America, -to which they have come across the narrow streight which in that -quarter divides the two continents, and are absolutely descendants of -a Tartarean tribe. - -The only personal knowledge which I have of the Chipeway nation is -restricted to the tribes on the south side of Lake Superior, on the -headwaters of the Chipeway and the St. Croix; and to those who reside -at Sandy Lake, Leech Lake, Rainy Lake, Red Lake, and the heads of the -rivers Rouge, Mississippi, and De Corbeau. They are divided, like the -Sioux, into many bands, the names of only seven of which I am -acquainted with. - -[1st.] I shall begin with those who reside on the south side of Lake -Superior, and on Lakes De Sable and Sang Sue, with the adjacent -country. They are generally denominated by the traders by the name of -Sauteuxs, but those of the headwaters of the Chipeway and St. Croix -rivers are called Fols Avoin Sauteurs. I am unacquainted with the -names of their chiefs. Those of Sandy Lake are headed by a chief -called Catawabata, or De Breche [Brèche-dent]. They hunt on Mille -Lacs, Red Lake, the east bank of the Mississippi from Rum river up to -the Des Corbeau, and thence on both sides of the Mississippi to Pine -river; on that river also, up the Mississippi to Lake De Sable, and -about 100 miles above that lake. Those of Leech Lake hunt on its -streams, Lake Winipie [Winnibigoshish], Upper Red Cedar Lake, Otter -Tail Lake, head of the De Corbeau, and the upper part of Lower Red -river. Their chief is Le Gieulle [La Gueule] Platte, or Eskibugeckoge -[Flat Mouth]. - -2d. The Crees reside on Red lake, and hunt in its vicinity and on Red -river. Their first chief's name is Wiscoup, or Le Sucre. - -3d. The Nepesangs reside on Lake Nippising and Lake St. Joseph. - -4th. The Algonquins reside on the Lake of the two Mountains, and are -dispersed along the north sides of Lakes Ontario and Erie. From this -tribe the language of the Chipeways derives its name, and the whole -nation is frequently designated by that appellation. - -5th. The Otoways [Ottawas] reside on the N. W. side of Lake Michigan -and Lake Huron; and hunt between those lakes and Lake Superior. - -6th. The Iroquois Chipeways are dispersed along the banks of all the -Great Lakes, from Ontario to the Lake of the Woods. - -7th. The Muscononges reside on the waters of Lower Red river, near to -Lake Winipie [Winnipeg], and are the furthest band of Chipeways. - -The Chipeways were the great and almost natural enemies of the Sioux, -with whom they had been waging a war of extermination for near two -centuries. On my arrival among them I succeeded in inducing both sides -to agree to a peace, and no blood was shed from Sept., 1805, to Apr., -1806, when I left the country. This object had frequently been in -vain attempted by the British government, who often brought the chiefs -of the two nations together at Michilimackinac, made them presents, -etc. But the Sioux, still haughty and overbearing, spurned the -proffered calumet, and returned to renew the scenes of slaughter and -barbarity. It may then be demanded, how could a subaltern with 20 men, -and no presents worthy of notice, effect that which the governors of -Canada, with all the immense finances of the Indian department, had -attempted in vain, although they frequently and urgently recommended -it? I reply that it is true the British government requested, -recommended, and made presents--but all this at a distance; and when -the chiefs returned to their bands, their thirst for blood soon -obliterated from their recollection the lectures of humanity which -they had heard in the councils of Michilimackinac. But when I appeared -amongst them the United States had lately acquired jurisdiction over -them, and the names of the Americans as warriors had frequently been -sounded in their ears; when I spoke to them on the subject I commanded -them, in the name of their great father, to make peace; offered them -the benefit of the mediation and guarantee of the United States; and -spoke of the peace, not as a benefit to us, but a step taken to make -themselves and their children happy. This language, held up to both -nations with the assistance of the traders, was a happy coincidence of -circumstances; and (may I not add?) the assistance of the Almighty -effected that which had long been attempted in vain. But I am -perfectly convinced that, unless troops are sent up between those two -nations, with an agent whose business it would be to watch the rising -discontents and check the brooding spirit of revenge, the weapons of -death will again be raised, and the echoes of savage barbarity will -resound through the wilderness.[VIII-4] - -The Chipeways are uncommonly attached to spirituous liquors; but may -not this be owing to their traders, who find it much to their [own] -interest to encourage their [the Chipeways'] thirst after an article -which enables them [the traders] to obtain their [the Chipeways'] -peltries at so low a rate as scarcely to be denominated a -consideration, and have reduced the people near the establishments to -a degree of degradation unparalleled? - -The Algonquin language is one of the most copious and sonorous -languages of all the savage dialects in North America; and is spoken -and understood by the various nations, except the Sioux, from the Gulf -of St. Lawrence to Lake Winipie [Winnipeg]. - -This nation is much more mild and docile than the Sioux, and if we may -judge from unprejudiced observers, more cool and deliberate in action. -But the latter possess a much higher sense of the honor of their -nation: the others plan for self-preservation. The Sioux attacks with -impetuosity; the other defends with every necessary precaution. But -the superior numbers of the Sioux would have enabled them to -annihilate the Chipeways long since had it not been for the nature of -their [the Chipeways'] country, which entirely precludes the -possibility of an attack on horseback. This also gives them a decided -advantage over an enemy half armed with arrows, as the least twig of a -bush will turn the shaft of death out of its direction; whereas, the -whizzing bullet holds its course nor spends its force short of the -destined victim. Thus we generally have found that when engaged in a -prairie the Sioux came off victorious; but if in the woods, even if -not obliged to retreat, the carcasses of their slaughtered brethren -showed how dearly they purchased the victory. - -The Sioux are bounded on the N. E. and N. by these two powerful -nations, the Chipeways and Knisteneaux [Crees], whose manners, -strength, and boundaries are ably described by Sir Alexander McKenzie. -The Assinniboins, or Stone Sioux, who border the Chipeways on the N. -W. and W., are a revolted band of the Sioux, who have maintained war -with the parent nation for about a century, and have rendered -themselves their most violent enemies. They extend from the Red river -W. nearly to the Rocky Mountains, and are computed at 1,500 warriors. -They reside on the plains, and follow the buffalo; consequently they -have very little occasion for traders or European productions. - -FOOTNOTES: - -[VIII-1] As explained in note 1, p. 287, this chapter is that part of -Doc. No. 18 which relates to the Indians, running pp. 56-66 and -folder, without break in the text of p. 56 from the geographical -matter. But its separation seems desirable, and I accordingly make a -chapter for its accommodation. There is no change in the sequence of -the matter. - -[VIII-2] The Sacs and Foxes have a curious history, perhaps not exactly -paralleled by that of any other tribes whatever. The names are linked -inseparably from the earliest times to the present day. Each has -always been to the other what neither of them has ever been to any -other Indians or to any whites--friend. The entire composure with -which we have been able to speak of Sacs and Foxes in our day and -generation is the reverse of the frame of mind which many persons now -living can recall as having been once theirs, before the final -subjugation of these capricious, turbulent, and enterprising tribes in -trans-Mississippian territory. They are Algonquian Indians who can be -traced in blood from Lake Ontario westward, along the gauntlet they -ran from Ontarian Canada to the final burying-grounds of their -hatchets in Iowa, Kansas, and the Indian Territory. They fought -everybody in their way--French, English, and American in turn, as well -as perhaps every Indian tribe they encountered. They were alternately -friends and foes of each of the two principal nations whose lands they -overran--their Algonquian relations the Chippewas, and their natural -enemies the Sioux, thus at times turning the balance of power between -these two hereditary foes. They inhabited at times many places along -the Great Lakes and westward, and the present names of not a few are -directly traceable to such occupancy. They were specially identified -with the histories of Wisconsin, Minnesota, and Illinois for more than -a hundred years. Carver speaks of their villages on the Wisconsin r. -in 1766, after they had been expelled from the Green Bay and Fox River -region. They appear to have been driven from the St. Croix by the -decisive battle at the Falls, in which they were defeated by the -Chippewas under Waboji (d. 1793). Writing of 1832, Schoolcraft speaks -of their recent residences on Rock r., and their confinement west of -the Mississippi by the then latest tragic act in their history. This -was the decisive battle of the Bad Axe in 1832: see note 51, p. 45. -The Foxes are located on the old maps under some form of their -Chippewan name Otagami; they were also called Miskwakis or Red Earths; -their F. name Reynard, which we translate Fox, and sometimes Dog or -Wolf, was an opprobrious nickname or nom de guerre. The Indian name -Osagi, Osawki, Osaukee, Sauk, Sac, Sacque, etc., is by some said to -signify the erratic propensities of the tribe which bears it, meaning -migrants, or those who went out of the land: for a probably better -definition, see note 16, p. 101. The survivors of both tribes -scarcely number 1,000. - -Le Bras Cassé, or Broken Arm, was a Sac chief whom Pike names -Pockquinike in his folding Table of the Foxes and other Indians. He -was a noted character, whose name turns up in various published -accounts. He figures, for example, in the Relation, etc., of -Perreault, on the scene of the assassination of Mr. Kay at Sandy Lake, -May 2d, 1785, by Le Cousin and his mother, both of whom knifed their -victim. Le Cousin was promptly stabbed by Feebyain or Le Petit Mort, a -friend of Kay's, and Brasse Casse (as Mr. Schoolcraft spells his name) -took Kay in hand to cure him; but the wound proved fatal Aug. 26th, -1785. - -[VIII-3] Folding Table F of the orig. ed., facing p. 66 of the App. to -Pt. 1, with a part of it, which the printer could not get on the -sheet, overrun as p. 66 of the main text, headed "Recapitulation." In -the present ed. this overrun piece is drawn into the table, which, as -now printed, can be set unbroken on two pages facing each other. - -For the modern scientific classification of the Siouan linguistic -family in general, and of the Dakotas or Sioux in particular, see my -ed. of Lewis and Clark, 1893, pp. 94-101, and pp. 128-130. As that -work is or should be in the hands of all good Americans, the subject -need not be traversed here. Taking that article as a modern norm or -standard of comparison, it may be useful to give here the -classification and nomenclature of the Sioux which was adopted by -Major Long, who was next in the field after Pike with an account of -these Indians, Keating, I. 1824, chap. viii., p. 376 _seq._ The -Dacota, he says, means the allied, who in their external relations -style themselves Ochente Shakoan, which signifies the nation of seven -(council-) fires, represented by the following septenary division -which once prevailed: 1. _Mende Wahkantoan_, or People of the Spirit -lake. 2. _Wahkpatoan_, or People of the Leaves. 3. _Sisitoan_, or Mia -Kechakesa. 4. _Yanktoanan_, or People of the Ferns. 5. _Yanktoan_, or -People descended from Ferns. 6. _Titoan_ , or Braggers. 7. -_Wahkpakotoan_, or People that shoot at Leaves. Of these Long has it -that No. 1 was the Gens du Lac of the French, and Nos. 2-6 were all -included in the Gens du Large of the F. traders, _i. e._, People "at -large," roving bands of prairie Sioux. But the French had other terms, -especially Gens des Feuilles for No. 2, and Gens des Feuilles Tirées -for No. 7. Comparing Long with Pike, we find: Long's No. 1=Pike's No. -1. Long's No. 2=Pike's No. 2. Long's No. 3=Pike's No. 3. Long's Nos. 4 -and 5=Pike's No. 4, with his two divisions. Long's No. 6=Pike's No. 5. -Long's No. 7=Pike's No. 6. Such a concordance as this deserves a -red-letter mark, considering how seldom authors have agreed upon -Sioux; and Pike is entitled to the credit of establishing the seven -main tribes. In his census, to be compared with Pike's, Long gives -total lodges, 2,330; warriors, 7,055; souls, 28,100: see Pike's -Abstract, on pp. 346, 347. These are distributed by Long as follows: -No. 1, 160--305--1,500. No. 2, 120--240--900. No. 3, 130--260--1,000; -to which add for the Kahra (Pike's Cawree) band of Sissetons, -160--450--1,500. No. 4, 460--1,300--5,200. No. 5, 200--500--2,000. No. -6, 900--3,600--14,440. No. 7, 100--200--800. To which add for various -stragglers 100--200--800, making total of lodges, warriors, and souls, -as above. Long estimated the revolted Stone Sioux, Haha, or -Assiniboines at 3,000--7,000--28,100, or almost precisely the same as -all the other Sioux together. Long's interesting particulars of the 14 -bands which he recognizes, by dividing his No. 1 into seven and -separating the Kahras from the other Sissetons, may be thus -summarized: No. 1. _Mende-Wahkantoan_: (1) Keoxa; pop. 40--70--400; -chief Wapasha, Wabasha, La Feuille or Leaf; two villages, one on Iowa -r., other near Lake Pepin; hunt both sides of the Miss. r. near the -Chippewa r. and its tributaries. Keoxa means "relationship -overlooked"; _i. e._, they inbreed closer than other Sioux. (2) -Eanbosandata, so called from the vertical rock on Cannon r.; pop. -10--25--100; chief Shakea; two small villages, one on the Miss. r., -other on Cannon r.; hunt on the headwaters of the latter. (3) Kapoja, -signifying light or active; one village (at the Grand Marais or Pig's -Eye marsh near St. Paul); pop. 30--70--300; chief, the celebrated -Chetanwakoamene, Petit Corbeau, or little Raven, who visited -Washington in July, 1824; hunt on St. Croix r. (4) Oanoska, meaning -great avenue; chief Wamendetanka or War Eagle, formerly dependent on -Petit Corbeau; one village (Black Dog's) on the St. Peter, S. side, -near the mouth; pop. 30--40--200; hunt on the Miss. r. above Falls of -St. Anthony. (5) Tetankatane, meaning Old Village; the oldest one -among the Dakotas; 400 lodges there when Wapasha's father ruled the -nation; Wapasha formerly lived there, but moved away with most of his -warriors; those that stayed chose a new leader from amongst -themselves, whose son Takopepeshene, the Dauntless, now rules; pop. -10--30--150; village on the St. Peter, 3 m. above its mouth; hunt on -this and Miss. r. (6) Taoapa; one village on the St. Peter; pop. -30--60--300; chief Shakpa, whose name means Six, is third in the -nation, ranking next after La Feuille and Petit Corbeau; hunt between -the Miss. and St. Peter. (7) Weakaote, a small band dependent on (6); -pop. 10--10--50. No. 2. _Wahkpatoan_, or Gens des Feuilles; name said -to mean "people that live beyond those that shoot at leaves," _i. e._, -higher up the river than the Wahkpakatoan; hunt near Otter Tail Lake; -chief Nunpakea, meaning "twice flying." No. 3. _Miakechesa_ or -Sisitoan: (_a_) Sissetons proper; no fixed abode; chief rendezvous, -Blue Earth r.; hunt buffalo over to the Missouri; live in skin tepees; -their chief Wahkanto, or Blue Spirit, by hereditary right. (_b_) Kahra -or Wild Rice Sissetons; no fixed abode; Lake Traverse and Red r.; skin -lodges; follow chief Tantankanaje, Standing Buffalo, hereditary, but -also a warrior. No. 4. _Yanktoanan_, the Fern Leaves, an important -tribe, pop. one-fifth of the whole nation; no fixed residence; skin -lodges; hunt from Red r. to the Missouri; trade at Lake Travers, Big -Stone l., and the Shienne r.; principal chief, Wanotan, the Charger. -No. 5. _Yanktoan_, descended from the Fern Leaves; live and trade on -the Missouri; hunt on E. side of that river; chief Tatanka Yuteshane, -meaning one who eats no buffalo. No. 6. Tetoans, Braggers; by far the -most numerous tribe of the Sioux, by some said to compose one-half of -the nation; rove between St. Peters and the Missouri; trade on both -rivers; live in skin lodges; hostile, great boasters; their chief -Chantapeta, or Heart of Fire, a powerful warrior. No. 7. -_Wahkpakotoan_, a name rendered by Long "'Shooters at Leaves,' which -they mistake for deer." No fixed abode; rove near head of the Cannon -and Blue Earth rivers; skin lodges; their last leader Shakeska, White -Nails, who died in 1822; he rose to his station by his military -ability. They have a regular hereditary chief Wiahuga, the Raven, -acknowledged as such by the Indian Agent; but he became disgusted with -the behavior of his tribe, and withdrew to Wapasha's. Long agrees with -Pike in giving this band a bad name as a lawless set. Pike says they -were mere vagabonds, and refugees from other tribes on account of -misdeeds. These Sioux were also called Gens des Feuilles Tirées and -Leaf Shooters. In the Lewis and Clark schedule they formed the Ninth -tribe of Sioux, named Wahpatoota, or Leaf Beds. A queer form of the -name is 8apik8ti=Ouapikouti, on one of Joliet's maps. - -The earliest form of the word _Sioux_ is believed to be Naduesiu, -derived from Jean Nicolet's journey of 1634-35, as written about five -years later in the Jesuit Relations, by Father Le Jeune. The form -Nadouessis, pl., is used by Raymbault and Jogues, who were at the -Sault Ste. Marie in 1641 (Jes. Rel. of 1642). Nadouesiouek is given in -a Relation of 1656, Nadouechiouec, 1660; and soon also Nadouesseronons, -Nadouesserons, etc. - -An excellent article on the Sioux, entitled Dakota Land and Dakota -Life, by Rev. E. D. Neill, occupies pp. 254-294 of the 2d ed. 1872, of -Minn. Hist. Soc. Coll., originally published in 1853. - -[VIII-4] The punctuation of the last two sentences in the original left -Pike's meaning obscure. It was by no means evident whether the -language which he had used to the Indians held up to their minds a -happy coincidence of circumstances which the traders helped to bring -about before the Almighty interfered at all, or whether the happy -coincidence of circumstances consisted in the endorsement of his -language both by the traders and the Almighty. On the whole, I am -inclined to think he meant that the speeches he made to the Indians -whom he addressed directly were repeated and backed up by the traders -among those Indians to whom he had no access; and that this was the -happy coincidence of circumstances which enabled the Almighty to -finish the business. But after all I am not quite confident that I -catch his meaning. If I do, I must say that he is not very -complimentary to the Deity, whose assistance he suspects may have been -necessary to effect that which the traders and himself jointly -attempted. For it seems from his further reflections on the subject -that he thought God possibly equal to burying the hatchet between the -Sioux and Chippewas, but hardly able to keep the peace without the -assistance of the military and of a special agent. However, Pike was -nothing if not a good soldier, and he had Napoleonic authority for -supposing that God would always be found on the side of the heaviest -artillery. - - - - -CHAPTER IX. - -VOCABULARY OF MISSISSIPPIAN PLACE-NAMES.[IX-1] - - - _English._ _French._ _Indian._ - - Natural Meadow Prairie - Buffalo river Riviere au Boeuf - Salt river Riviere au Sel Oahaha - River of Means Riviere de Moyen - Iowa river Riviere de Ayoua - Stony, or Rock river Riviere des Rochers - Turkey river Riviere au Dindon - Dog's meadow Prairie Des Chien - Ouiscousing - Raven river Riviere de Corbeau - Yellow river Riviere Jaune - Root river Riviere aux Racines - River of Embarrassments Riviere d'Embarras - Clear Water river Riviere l'Eau Clair - River of the Prairie of Riviere de la Prairie de - Cross Crosse - Chipeway river Riviere Sauteaux Ouchipewa Sippi - The Mountain which La Montaigne qui - soaks in the Water trempe dans l'Eau - River of do Riviere de do - Sandy point Point de Sable - The Barn La Grange - Cannon River Riviere a Canon - River St. Peters Riviere St. Pierre - Falls of St. Anthony Shute de St. Antoine - Rum river Prairie l'Eau de Vie - Leaf river Riviere aux Feuilles - Sauk river Riviere aux Saukes - Big Falls Grand rapid - Lower Red Cedar lake Le Bas Lac du Cedre Rouge - Raven island Isle de Corbeau - Pine river Riviere au Pin - Leech lake Lac Sang Sue - Sandy lake Lac de Sable - Pike river Riviere du Brochet - Bottom of the lake Fond du Lac - Swan river Riviere a Cigue - Falls of Packegamaw Petite Shute Packegamaw - Upper Red Cedar lake Le Haut Lac de Cedre Rouge - Red lake Lac Rouge - Green bay La Baye Verde - St. Ignatius St. Ignace - Oak Point Point au Chene - Meno Cockien - The Turn La Detour - Island of the Turn Isle du Detour - Burnt island Isle Brule - Potowatomies island Isle des Poux - Little Streight Petit Detroit - Port of the Dead Port des Morts - Vermillion island Isle Vermilion - Red river Riviere Rouge - Stinking rapid Puant Rapid - Wolf river Riviere des Loups - Hillock of the dead Butte des Morts - Lac Puckway - Muddy lake Lac Vaseux - -FOOTNOTE: - -[IX-1] This article formed Doc. No. 2, pp. 52, 53 of the App. to _Part -III._ of the orig. ed., entitled "Explanatory Table of Names of -Places, Persons, and Things, made use of in this Volume." But there is -not a name of any person in it, and not a name of anything in it that -does not belong to Part I., _i. e._, to the Mississippi voyage alone. -Having thus been obviously out of place in Part III., it is now -brought where it belongs, and a new chapter made for it, with a new -head, which more accurately indicates what it is. But even as a -vocabulary of Mississippian place-names, it is a mere fragment, -neither the plan nor scope of which is evident, as the names occur -neither in alphabetical nor any other recognizable order, and include -only a very small fraction of those which Pike uses in Part I. of his -book. He may have intended to make something of it which should -justify the title he gave it, and left it out of Part I. for that -reason; but nothing more came of it, and it was finally bundled into -Part III. The lists include a few terms which do not occur elsewhere -in the work, as for example, "River of Means"; but are chiefly curious -as an evidence of the difficulty our author found in spelling proper -names twice alike. - - - - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Expeditions of Zebulon Montgomery -Pike, Volume I (of 3), by Elliott Coues - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EXPEDITIONS OF ZEBULON PIKE, VOL I *** - -***** This file should be named 43774-8.txt or 43774-8.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/4/3/7/7/43774/ - -Produced by Melissa McDaniel, Charlie Howard, Rachael -Schultz and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at -http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images -generously made available by The Internet Archive) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - - -Title: The Expeditions of Zebulon Montgomery Pike, Volume I (of 3) - To Headwaters of the Mississippi River Through Louisiana - Territory, and in New Spain, During the Years 1805-6-7. - -Author: Elliott Coues - -Release Date: September 21, 2013 [EBook #43774] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EXPEDITIONS OF ZEBULON PIKE, VOL I *** - - - - -Produced by Melissa McDaniel, Charlie Howard, Rachael -Schultz and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at -http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images -generously made available by The Internet Archive) - - - - - - -</pre> - +<div>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 43774 ***</div> <div class="tnbox"> <p class="center"><b>Transcriber's Note:</b></p> @@ -29073,382 +29032,6 @@ example, "River of Means"; but are chiefly curious as an evidence of the difficulty our author found in spelling proper names twice alike.</p> </div> - - - - - - -<pre> - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Expeditions of Zebulon Montgomery -Pike, Volume I (of 3), by Elliott Coues - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EXPEDITIONS OF ZEBULON PIKE, VOL I *** - -***** This file should be named 43774-h.htm or 43774-h.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/4/3/7/7/43774/ - -Produced by Melissa McDaniel, Charlie Howard, Rachael -Schultz and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at -http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images -generously made available by The Internet Archive) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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Thus, we do not necessarily -keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition. - -Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility: - - www.gutenberg.org - -This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, -including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to -subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. - - -</pre> - +<div>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 43774 ***</div> </body> </html> diff --git a/43774.txt b/43774.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 7a5d814..0000000 --- a/43774.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,21660 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Expeditions of Zebulon Montgomery Pike, -Volume I (of 3), by Elliott Coues - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - - -Title: The Expeditions of Zebulon Montgomery Pike, Volume I (of 3) - To Headwaters of the Mississippi River Through Louisiana - Territory, and in New Spain, During the Years 1805-6-7. - -Author: Elliott Coues - -Release Date: September 21, 2013 [EBook #43774] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ASCII - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EXPEDITIONS OF ZEBULON PIKE, VOL I *** - - - - -Produced by Melissa McDaniel, Charlie Howard, Rachael -Schultz and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at -http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images -generously made available by The Internet Archive) - - - - - - - -Transcriber's Note: - - Inconsistent hyphenation and spelling in the original document have - been preserved. Obvious typographical errors have been corrected. - - Italic text is denoted by _underscores_ and bold text by =equal - signs=. Superscripts are prefixed with a ^caret. In Table D on - page 283, a symbol for "per" has been replaced with the word per. - - Footnote numbering, which in the original restarted at "1" with every - chapter, has been prepended with OP (Original Preface), NP - (New Preface), M (Memoir), or the Roman chapter number (e.g. VI-7 for - the 7th note of chapter 6). - - The table on pages 346 and 347 has been split to reduce the line - lengths. - - In Footnote M-6, 1892 should probably be 1792. - - On page 216, the barometer reading for August 25th seems to be missing - a digit. - - This book is the first of three volumes. Volume 2 is available at - http://www.gutenberg.org/etext/43775. Volume 3 is available at - http://www.gutenberg.org/etext/43776. It contains an Index and Maps. - - - - - Pike's Expeditions. - VOLUME I. - - - - - EDITION LIMITED TO ELEVEN HUNDRED AND FIFTY COPIES. - - - Nos. 1 to 150 on Handmade Paper. - Nos. 151 to 1150 on Fine Book Paper. - - No. ____ - - - - - [Illustration: Z. M. Pike] - - - - - THE EXPEDITIONS - OF - ZEBULON MONTGOMERY PIKE, - - To Headwaters of the Mississippi River, - Through Louisiana Territory, and in New Spain, - During the Years 1805-6-7. - - A NEW EDITION, - NOW FIRST REPRINTED IN FULL FROM THE ORIGINAL OF 1810, - WITH COPIOUS CRITICAL COMMENTARY, - MEMOIR OF PIKE, NEW MAP AND OTHER ILLUSTRATIONS, - AND COMPLETE INDEX, - - BY - ELLIOTT COUES, - Late Captain and Assistant Surgeon, United States Army, - Late Secretary and Naturalist, United States Geological Survey, - Member of the National Academy of Sciences, - Editor of Lewis and Clark, - etc., etc., etc. - - IN THREE VOLUMES. - VOL. I. - Memoir of the Author--Mississippi Voyage. - - NEW YORK: - FRANCIS P. HARPER. - 1895. - - - - - COPYRIGHT, 1895, - BY - FRANCIS P. HARPER, - New York. - - All rights reserved. - - - - -Dedication. - -TO THE PRESIDENT AND MEMBERS OF THE U. S. M. P. S. - - -Fellow Soldiers and Citizens: - -In presuming to claim your protection and patronage for the following -production, I feel less diffidence, knowing that the very institution -of the society will plead in my favor, it being avowedly formed for -the promotion of military knowledge. - -The work is merely a volume of details, and if it should be found -that in the relation I have delivered myself with perspicuity and -exactitude, it is the highest meed of praise that I claim. When I -touched on abstract subjects, or presumed to hypothesize, I have -merely suggested doubts without conclusions, which, if deemed worthy, -may hereafter be analyzed by men of genius and science. It being a -work which has arisen from the events of youthful military exertions, -the author, perhaps, has the most just and well-founded ground for a -hope that it may receive the solicited approbation of your honorable -institution. - -I am, gentlemen, with the greatest respect and high consideration, - - Your obedient servant, - - Z. M. PIKE, - - Major 6th Regt. Infantry, - M. U. S. M. P. Society. - - - - -CONTENTS OF VOL I. - - - PAGES - - ORIGINAL PREFACE, i-iv - - NEW PREFACE, v-xviii* - - MEMOIR OF ZEBULON MONTGOMERY PIKE, xix-cxiv - - PART I. - - THE MISSISSIPPI VOYAGE. - - CHAPTER I. - - ITINERARY: ST. LOUIS TO ST. PAUL, AUGUST 9TH-SEPTEMBER - 21ST, 1805, 1-81 - - CHAPTER II. - - ITINERARY, CONTINUED: ST. PAUL TO LEECH LAKE, - SEPTEMBER 22D, 1805-JANUARY 31ST, 1806, 82-151 - - CHAPTER III. - - ITINERARY, CONCLUDED: LEECH LAKE TO ST. LOUIS, - FEBRUARY 1ST-APRIL 30TH, 1806, 152-215 - - CHAPTER IV. - - WEATHER DIARY OF THE MISSISSIPPI, 216-220 - - CHAPTER V. - - CORRESPONDENCE AND CONFERENCES, 221-273 - - CHAPTER VI. - - COMMERCE OF THE MISSISSIPPI, 274-286 - - CHAPTER VII. - - GEOGRAPHY OF THE MISSISSIPPI, 287-336 - - CHAPTER VIII. - - ETHNOGRAPHY OF THE MISSISSIPPI, 337-354 - - CHAPTER IX. - - VOCABULARY OF MISSISSIPPIAN PLACE-NAMES, 355, 356 - - - - -PREFACE TO THE ORIGINAL EDITION. - - -To the Public: - -Books of travels, journals, and voyages have become so numerous, and -are so frequently impositions on the public, that the writer of the -following sheets feels under an obligation to explain, in some -measure, the original circumstances that led to the production of this -volume. Soon after the purchase of Louisiana by an enlightened -administration, measures were taken to explore the then unknown wilds -of our western country--measures founded on principles of scientific -pursuits, combined with a view of entering into a chain of -philanthropic arrangements for ameliorating the condition of the -Indians who inhabit those vast plains and deserts. His Excellency, -Meriwether Lewis, then a captain of the first regiment of infantry, -was selected by the President of the United States, in conjunction -with Captain C. Clarke [Wm. Clark], to explore the then unknown -sources of the Missouri, and I was chosen to trace the Mississippi to -its source, with the objects in view contemplated by my instructions; -to which I conceived my duty as a soldier should induce me to add an -investigation into the views of the British traders in that quarter as -to trade, and an inquiry into the limits of the territories of the -United States and Great Britain. As a man of humanity and feeling, I -made use of the name of my government to stop the savage warfare which -had for ages been carried on by two of the most powerful nations of -aborigines in North America. Why I did not execute the power vested in -me by the laws of the country, to ruin the British traders and enrich -myself, by seizing on the immense property of the North West Company, -which I found in the acknowledged boundary of the United States, will -be explained by my letter to Hugh M'Gillis, Esq., to whom I own -eternal gratitude for his polite and hospitable treatment of myself -and party. - -In the execution of this voyage I had no gentleman to aid me, and I -literally performed the duties (as far as my limited abilities -permitted) of astronomer, surveyor, commanding officer, clerk, spy, -guide, and hunter; frequently preceding the party for miles in order -to reconnoiter, and returning in the evening, hungry and fatigued, to -sit down in the open air, by firelight, to copy the notes and plot the -courses of the day. - -On my return from the Mississippi voyage, preparations were making for -a second, which was to be conducted by another gentleman of the army; -but General Wilkinson solicited as a favor that which he had a right -to command, viz., that I would agree to take charge of the expedition. -The late dangers and hardships I had undergone, together with the idea -of again leaving my family in a strange country, distant from their -connections, made me hesitate; but the ambition of a soldier, and the -spirit of enterprise which was inherent in my breast, induced me to -agree to his proposition. The great objects in view by this -expedition, as I conceived in addition to my instructions, were to -attach the Indians to our government, and to acquire such geographical -knowledge of the southwestern boundary of Louisiana as to enable our -government to enter into a definitive arrangement for a line of -demarkation between that territory and North Mexico. - -In this expedition I had the assistance of Lieutenant James [D.] -Wilkinson, and also of Dr. John H. Robinson, a young gentleman of -science and enterprise, who volunteered his services. I also was -fitted out with a complete set of astronomical and mathematical -instruments, which enabled me to ascertain the geographical situation -of various places to a degree of exactitude that would have been -extremely gratifying to all lovers of science, had I not been so -unfortunate as to lose the greater part of my papers by the seizure -of the Spanish government. - -With respect to the great acquisitions which might have been made to -the sciences of botany and zoology, I can only observe that neither my -education nor taste led me to the pursuit; and if they had, my mind -was too much engrossed in making arrangements for our subsistence and -safety to give time to scrutinize the productions of the countries -over which we traveled, with the eye of a Linnaeus or Buffon; yet Dr. -Robinson did make some observations on those subjects, which he has -not yet communicated. With respect to the Spanish part, it has been -suggested to me by some respected friends that the picture I drew of -the manners, morals, etc., of individuals generally of New Spain, if a -good likeness, was certainly not making a proper return for the -hospitality and kindness with which those people honored me. Those -reasons have induced me to omit many transactions, and draw a veil -over various habits and customs which might appear in an unfavorable -point of view, at the same time that I have dwelt with delight on -their virtues. - -There have not been wanting persons of various ranks who have -endeavored to infuse the idea into the minds of the public that the -last voyage was undertaken through some sinister designs of General -Wilkinson; and although this report has been amply refuted by two -letters from the Secretary of War, published with this work, yet I -cannot forbear, in this public manner, declaring the insinuation to be -a groundless calumny, arising from the envenomed breasts of persons -who, through enmity to the general, would, in attempting his ruin, -hurl destruction on all those who, either through their official -stations or habits of friendship, ever had any connection with that -gentleman. - -As a military man--as a soldier from the time I was able to bear -arms--it cannot be expected that a production of my pen can stand the -test of criticism; and I hope, by this candid appeal to the justice -and indulgence of the learned, to induce them to spare their censure -if they cannot award their praise. - -The gentleman who prints this work knows under what a variety of -disadvantages it has gone to the press.[OP-1] At a distance during its -publication, and engaged in my professional duties, it was impossible -to give to it that attention which, in order to reach its proper -degree of correctness, such a work necessarily would require. - - Z. M. PIKE. - -FOOTNOTE: - -[OP-1] The publisher owes it to truth, and to Colonel Pike, to state that -he very much doubts whether any book ever went to press under so many -disadvantages as the one now presented to the public. Some of those -disadvantages must be obvious to every man who reads the work; but -there are many others of a nature not sufficiently interesting for -publication, yet of sufficient magnitude to retard the work, embarrass -the publisher, and impose more anxiety than has fallen to his lot in -the various books which he has published. It is, however, confidently -believed that, notwithstanding all those circumstances, the Journal -and its Appendixes will be found particularly interesting and pregnant -with important information. - - - - -PREFACE TO THE NEW EDITION. - - -Pike's expeditions were the first military and the second governmental -explorations which were pushed to any considerable extent in our then -newly acquired territory of Louisiana. The name and fame of the -brilliant young soldier who impersonated the authority of the United -States over all the ground between British and Spanish possessions are -thus inseparably linked with those of Lewis and Clark in the beginning -of our history of the Great West--a West so great that it reached from -the Mississippi to the Pacific. The two movements were similar in -scope and plan; both were in the nature of claiming possession of -property; they were alike fruitful of permanent good results; but they -differed entirely in the circumstances under which each was devised, -and to a marked degree in their respective purposes. Lewis and Clark's -enterprise originated with the President of the United States; and -though both of the men to whom that most memorable exploration was -confided were officers of the regular army, their military -organization was entirely subservient to affairs of state, being -simply designed to secure the most efficient discipline in the -discharge of certain civilian duties. Jefferson had invested heavily -in real estate; the Louisiana purchase had been made with the people's -money; he naturally wished to know what sort of a bargain he had made -with Napoleon; so he sent Lewis and Clark to explore the vast extent -of country he had bought. While their faces were still fixed on the -setting sun, which for them still dipped behind the shining snow-caps, -Pike set forth on his first journey northward; while they were -homeward bound from the South Sea by way of the mighty Missouri and -the rugged Roche Jaune, he was pressing on his second way toward the -Mexican mountains. Both his expeditions originated with the -commander-in-chief of the army; both were as strictly military in -method as in purpose. Pike was the simon-pure and simple soldier, who -had been ordered by his general to carry our flag among British -traders and Sioux, Ojibways, and other Indians of the Northwest, in -the first instance; in the second place, to display that emblem of -authority among the Osages, Pawnees, and Comanches, and plant that -standard of the republic on the still disputed boundary of New Spain -in the Southwest. All else that he accomplished was incidental to -Wilkinson's main aim. How daring were Pike's exploits, these volumes -testify. Their moral effect was enormous; their results proved -far-reaching; and some of these are still in evidence of intrepid -adventure pushed to successful issue. - -If the record of Pike's expeditions be overshadowed by the history of -still greater and partly prior achievement, we may remember that its -luster is dimmed only in comparison with the incomparable story of -Lewis and Clark. If this witness of arduous duty ardently done in the -service of his country stand dumb before that startling tragedy which -set the seal of sacrifice upon a devoted life, we may reflect that -such a consummation of noble aspirations but capped the climax of -unswerving patriotism and unwavering fidelity to lofty ideals when it -transfigured the already celebrated explorer into a national hero and -a popular idol. Pike's personality is not less picturesque than is his -career unique; our interest in his character becomes vivid as we study -its manifestations, and perhaps even outgrows that regard we may -bestow upon those of his achievements which have passed into permanent -history. The present volumes tell his own story, in his own way; they -are autobiographical in all that relates to the principal incidents -and most stirring scenes of his life, before that final catastrophe -which turned the tide of international warfare. If the narrative -never halted at the point of an unaccustomed pen it would not be -Pike's, and it would lack a certain quality which not even a Biddle -could impart to the more polished and finished history of Lewis and -Clark. It now seems probable that both books will endure, side by -side, so long as any interest in the beginnings of our Great West -finds a place in the hearts of the people. - -Pike anticipated Lewis and Clark by about four years in bringing the -results of his partly simultaneous explorations before the public. -Since the first appearance of his work, there has never been a time -when it has not been cited by scholars as an original authority in the -many matters of historical, geographical, ethnological, and related -interests of which it treats. Nevertheless, it is undeniable that Pike -has never been so widely or so well known as he deserves to be in his -double character of traveler and author. The soldier could hardly -desire greater fame than fell to the happy lot of the hero of York, -victorious in death; but what of his life? Who was this General Pike -before that? Who was Lieutenant or Captain Pike--where did he go -exploring--what did he discover--how should we know? In searching -contemporaneous records of the War of 1812 for biographical data in -the preparation of the Memoir which introduces these volumes, it was -always the great soldier--General Pike--whom I found, with scant -recognition, if anything more than mere mention, of the still greater -explorer--the youthful, the dashing and winning, the ardent and -enthusiastic lieutenant, who dreamed of glory till his dream came -true. The fact would seem to be that Pike's death on the field of -battle, under exceptionally thrilling circumstances, obscured rather -than accentuated those earlier exploits which set his title to fame in -the clearest and truest light. Probably no good general would have -failed in what Pike accomplished on the day of his death; but how many -subalterns in their twenties have won imperishable renown by -achievements in the field of exploration? One purpose I had in view in -preparing a new edition of this work will have been subserved if I -have succeeded in eliminating a certain popular aberration, in -calculating aright the parallax of Pike as viewed from different -standpoints, and in thus placing his name in proper historical -perspective. - -Nearly or quite all that an editor might be expected to say in his -preface concerning the subject-matter of his author will be found to -have been said already in one place or another in the course of the -extensive and minute commentary which appears upon almost every page -of the present edition. Nevertheless, so few are the persons who have -any clear or coherent ideas on the subject of Pike's performances, -that it will be to consult the convenience of most readers who may -take up this book to give here a brief statement of his journeyings. - -Pike conducted two entirely separate and distinct expeditions. One of -them, in 1805-6, was from St. Louis by way of the Mississippi to the -headwaters of this river, and return--for the most part by the same -way he went. This round trip, which I have called the "Mississippi -Voyage," forms Pt. 1 of his book. The other expedition was taken -westward from St. Louis into the interior parts of the then Louisiana, -to the sources of the Arkansaw river, and among the Rocky mountains of -present Colorado. In so far as Pike protracted this exploration of his -own volition, it forms Pt. 2 of his book, which I have designated the -"Arkansaw Journey." But at one point in the course of this journey -Pike was captured by the Spaniards, and conducted against his will by -a roundabout way through Mexico to the then Spanish-American boundary -between Texas and Louisiana. This episode, unflattering to Pike's -sensibilities, if not wholly unforeseen by him, he saw fit to make the -subject of Pt. 3 of his book; I have entitled it the "Mexican Tour." - -I. In July, 1805, Pike was ordered by General Wilkinson to explore and -report upon the Mississippi river from St. Louis to its source, select -sites for military posts, treat with the Indians, make peace if -possible between the Sioux and Ojibways, and find out what he could -about the British traders who still occupied posts in our newly -acquired territory. Excepting these establishments of the Northwest -Company, there were then no white settlements on or near the river -beyond the village of Prairie du Chien, and our flag had never flown -in that quarter. Pike navigated his boats to the vicinity of present -Little Falls, but could get them no further. He there built a -stockade, in which some of his men were left for the winter, and with -the rest pushed on by land along the river to Lower Red Cedar -Lake--Sandy lake--Grand rapids and Pokegama falls--mouth of Leech Lake -river--up the latter to Leech lake--and thence to Upper Red Cedar (now -Cass) lake, at the mouth of Turtle river. This was the furthest point -he reached. He considered the Leech Lake drainage-area--which I have -called the Pikean source--to be the true origin of the Mississippi, -and remained in ignorance of the fact that this river flowed into Cass -lake from such lakes as Bemidji and Itasca, though these and others -were already known to some of the whites. Returning from Cass to Leech -lake, and thence, by a more direct overland route than he had before -taken, to the Mississippi in the vicinity of Lower Red Cedar lake, he -descended the river to his stockade, picked up the men who had -wintered there, and as soon as the ice broke up started in boats for -St. Louis, which he reached in safety with all his party in April, -1806. - -II. In July, 1806, Pike left St. Louis on his second expedition. He -ascended the Missouri to the Osage, and the latter to the villages of -the Indians of that name. Thence he continued westward overland, -entered Kansas, and proceeded to the Pawnee village on the Republican -river, near the present Kansas-Nebraska line. Turning southward, he -reached the Arkansaw river at the present site of Great Bend. There he -dispatched his junior officer, Lieutenant Wilkinson, with a few men, -to descend the Arkansaw, while with the rest of his company he -ascended the same river into Colorado, as far as Pueblo. From this -point he made an unsuccessful side-trip which had for its object the -ascent of the since famous peak which bears his name, and returned to -his camp at Pueblo. Thence pushing up the Arkansaw, he was halted by -the Grand canyon, at the site of present Canyon City. He then made a -detour to the right, which took him up Oil creek into South Park. He -traversed this park, along the South Platte and some of its -tributaries, left it by way of Trout Creek pass, and was thus again -brought to the Arkansaw. He pushed up this river till he viewed its -sources, in the vicinity of present Leadville, turned about, and with -great difficulty descended it to the very camp he had left at Canyon -City. This part of his journey was not accomplished without much -hardship, and ended in chagrin; for he had fancied himself on the -headwaters of that Red river whose sources he had been pointedly -instructed to discover. Nothing was known at that time, to Americans, -of the origin of that great branch of the Mississippi which was called -Red river lower down; nor was it known till years afterward that what -the Spaniards had called high up by a name equivalent to Red river was -really that main fork of the Arkansaw which is now designated the -Canadian river, whose sources are in the mountains not far from Santa -Fe. _This_ was the river which Pike might have found, had his search -been more fortunately directed, though neither he nor any other -American was aware of that fact at the time. Nevertheless, he -determined to carry out his orders to the letter, and with more -courage than discretion pushed southward from his camp at Canyon City -to discover an elusive Red river. He passed up that tributary of the -Arkansaw which is now called Grape creek, and thus into the Wet -Mountain valley. There the party suffered almost incredibly from cold -and hunger; some of the men were frozen and crippled for life. But -Pike managed to extricate himself and most of his companions from -their perilous situation by crossing the Sangre de Cristo range -through the Sand Hill pass into the San Luis valley, where he found -himself on the Rio Grande del Norte. He descended this river to the -Rio Conejos, and there established himself in a stockade--in part at -least for the purpose of tarrying while he sent a small party back for -those of the men who had been left behind, both at Canyon City and in -Wet Mountain valley. - -The secret which underlay Pike's ostensible instructions from General -Wilkinson, and the mystery which is supposed to have enshrouded his -movements on this portion of his second expedition, are fully -discussed in my notes, at various points in Pike's narrative or in my -Memoir, where the subject obtrudes. Without going into any particulars -here, it is to be said simply that Pike may have been ordered to -proceed to Santa Fe--or as near that capital of Spanish New Mexico as -he could go with the force at his command--without being informed of -whatever ulterior designs the general of the army may have -entertained. - -III. Pike was captured in his stockade, with the few men he had left -about him, by Spanish dragoons, under the orders of General -Allencaster, then governor of New Mexico. The message he received from -his captors was disguised under the form of a polite invitation to -visit the governor at Santa Fe. On the 27th of February, 1807, he left -his post as a prisoner in the hands of a half-hostile foreign power, -accompanied by the remnant of his men. They were treated with great -forbearance--nay, with distinguished consideration; nevertheless, Pike -was brought to book before the authorities, and required to explain -how he had happened to invade Spanish territory with an armed force. -Governor Allencaster then ordered him to report to General Salcedo at -Chihuahua; he was accordingly escorted by the military down the Rio -Grande from Santa Fe to El Paso, and thence by the usual route -southward, in what was then New Biscay, to the first named city. From -this capital he was conducted, still under guard, through a portion of -what is now the State of Durango, around by the Bolson de Mapimi, -thence northward throughout Coahuila, and so on to San Antonio. -Continuing through Texas, he was finally delivered out of the hands -of his Spanish hosts and captors, on crossing the river which in part -bounds our present State of Louisiana; and ended his long -peregrination at Natchitoches, among his own countrymen. - -At this point the author's narrative ends abruptly, so far as any -itinerary of his movements is concerned. We are not even told what -became of the men who did not accompany him to Natchitoches--those who -were left behind when he started from the Rio Conejos, either at that -point, or in the Wet Mountain valley, or on the Arkansaw. It had been -understood, and was fully expected, that they were all to follow him -through Mexico under Spanish escort. It is probable that they did so, -and that all were finally restored to the United States. But at the -last word we have on the subject from Pike himself, eight persons were -still detained in Mexico. (See p. 855.) - - * * * * * - -If the reader will now turn to p. xxxvi, he will find there and on -some following pages an analysis of the original edition of Pike's -work, together with an exposition of the wholly exceptional editorial -difficulty of reproducing such a complicated affair in anything like -good book form. The author, like many another gallant soldier, versed -in the arts of war, was quite innocent of literary strategy, though -capable of heading an impetuous assault upon the parts of speech. He -may have acquired an impression, by no means confined to his own -profession, that a book is made by putting manuscript in a -printing-press and stirring it about with a composing-stick, which, -like a magic wand that some kind fairy waves in an enchanted castle, -will transfigure the homeliness of the pen into a thing of beauty and -a joy forever. Pike seems to have labored under some such delusion in -preparing his copious materials for the press, and no one appears -either to have advised him in these premises or to have revised the -proofs. The result was innumerable errors, both of the writing and of -the printing, most of which might have been eliminated with due care. - -In the original edition, which has never before been reprinted in -full, or in anything like its own make-up, the three separate -itineraries above noted followed one another consecutively, with only -the interruption of certain meteorological tables. These itineraries -made about one-half of the volume in bulk, but perhaps only about -one-third of the total _ems_. They were called "Parts," respectively -enumerated I., II., III., and were the only portions of the whole -which were printed in large type, as the main "body" of the work. The -greater remainder of the author's materials were then thrown into the -form of three Appendixes, one for each of the three foregoing Parts, -each one being necessarily displaced from its proper connection, and -all being set in small type. The contents of these Appendixes were -miscellaneous and multifarious, but reducible in the main to two -sorts: (1) Formal retraversing of the ground gone over in the -itineraries, with reference to geography, ethnology, commerce, -military and political topics, and related matters which came under -Pike's observation; (2) Letters and other documents upon a variety of -subjects, representing what may be regarded as the officialities of -Pike's Expeditions. - -The determination to edit Pike with the omission of nothing whatever -which the work originally contained, and to preserve as far as seemed -reasonably possible the shape in which it came from his own hand, -involved a problem whose solution was one of no ordinary difficulty. -The division of the book into three Parts was perfectly sound, and by -all means to be preserved. The main departure from Pike's plan that -seemed to be required was simply to bring each Appendix into direct -connection with its own Part, and set it in uniform typography, as -being of equal value and interest with the itinerary. Having made -these transpositions, I found it an easy matter to introduce -chapter-heads which should co-ordinate the whole of the contents. Each -of the three itineraries could be conveniently divided into three -chapters, covering as many stages of the several journeys; and in like -manner it was found that the contents of each of the three Appendixes -could be naturally grouped under a few heads, thus carrying out the -plan of chaptering the whole book. To effect this result required no -change whatever in the course of the itineraries, and in the -appendicial matters involved only some few unimportant transpositions, -mainly for the purpose of rearranging the official correspondence in -the chronological sequence of the letters and other documents of which -it consisted. But even in this small matter I have been at the pains -of pointing out the position which each separate piece occupied in the -original edition--perhaps with needless scrupulosity. A glance at the -tables of contents of this edition will show how well or ill the -remodeling has been done. - -The transpositions thus effected, together with the repeatedly broken -and sometimes blank pagination of the original, made it obviously -impossible to indicate in this edition the former numeration of the -pages. Otherwise, in editing Pike's text, I have been guided by the -same principles which I applied to my recent redaction of Lewis and -Clark. I do not think that any editor may feel free to rewrite his -author. It would be an unwarrantable liberty to sacrifice an author's -individuality upon the altar of literary style. And especially in the -case of an old book--one whose intrinsic merits survive what are "the -defects of its qualities," and thus cause it to reappear in a new -guise--is it desirable that the reader should feel sure he is offered -a genuine text. At the same time, the essentials of genuineness are -different from its factitious ear-marks, and may be preserved with -fidelity by an editor who, nevertheless, feels free to disregard -non-essentials. Pike's is both a rare and a curious book; yet we need -not venerate its abounding misprints, or burn the incense of -admiration in the face of its frequently solecistic grammar, or even -kowtow to its peculiar punctuation. Such things as these are assuredly -among the non-essentials of a pure text, always amenable to editorial -revision, and always open to the welcome attentions of a friendly -printer. But for the rest, as I lately said on a similar occasion, "I -have punctiliously preserved the orthography of proper names in all -their variance and eccentricity; and wherever I have amplified any -statement in the text, or diverted the sense of a passage by a hair's -breadth, square brackets indicate the fact." - -A few words may be expected in this connection upon the new matter, by -the introduction of which the single volume of Pike has been extended -to three volumes, thus more than doubling the original text. I have -seldom, if ever, studied a work whose author seemed to me in so great -need of an interpreter. Pike was not always precise in his statements -of fact, and sometimes failed to convey his own meaning with entire -lucidity. Much was thus left to be supplied by the imagination of the -reader, or to be clarified by the exercise of his critical faculties, -whether or no he were sufficiently informed in the premises to follow -his author intelligently. In subjecting the text to a scrutiny, -perhaps exceptionally close and rigid, I have desired in the first -place to inform myself of the exact significance which the author -intended his words to have, thus putting myself as nearly as possible -in his place, and always, as I trust, in full sympathy with him, -however diverse from his views any of my own opinions may have been. -Coming to such understanding of the work in hand--one whose -accomplishment is now nearly a century old--my duty seemed to be to -criticise the subject-matter from the standpoint of to-day, however -copious might prove to be the additional information required, or to -whatever extent the resulting commentary might be protracted. This -part of my work is represented by the notes with which the present -edition has been freighted, and which are typographically -distinguished from the main text. These notes bespeak their own -variety and perhaps comprehensiveness; but of their value or interest -it is not for me to express any opinion. - -Aside from this main exercise of an editorial function to the best of -my ability, I have been induced to add another to the several good -memoirs of Pike which we already possessed--notably Whiting's and -Greely's. In the preparation of this I have been able to avail myself -of much hitherto unpublished documentary material and other sources of -information which have not before been utilized for this purpose. -Under the circumstances of its present connection this biography could -be prepared with little regard to Pike as an explorer, for these -volumes cover all such ground; and thus I could dwell for the most -part upon other aspects of his life and character, such as those which -led up to his conspicuous adventures, and especially those of the War -of 1812 which closed with his death a career of military honor and -renown. - -At the time when Pike first appeared in print, it was the fashion to -regard an index to a book rather as an elegant superfluity, or a -luxury of leisurely authorship, than as the imperative obligation and -absolute necessity which we now find it to be, whenever anything else -than fiction or poetry becomes a candidate for public favor. Pike has -never been indexed before; and many who now see how lengthy is the -list of proper names of persons, places, and other things, may for the -first time become aware of the extent and variety of information of -which this author's work has proved to be either the prolific source -or the pregnant occasion. - -All of the plates which illustrated the original edition of Pike have -been reproduced in facsimile. They consist of a portrait of the author -and six maps. To these are now added a facsimile of an autograph -letter, and a new map, both prepared expressly for the present -edition. The letter requires no further remark than that it is -believed to be the first one ever published, and that it is also -printed in its proper connection in the text of my Memoir, with many -other hitherto unpublished documents. The new map, which I have -legended as a Historico-geographical Chart of the Upper Mississippi -River, has been compiled and drawn under my direction by Mr. Daniel W. -Cronin, a skillful draughtsman of the U. S. Geological Survey, and is -copyrighted by my publisher. It is based primarily upon the Map of -the Mississippi River from Lake Itasca to the Falls of St. Anthony, -compiled from surveys and reconnoissances made under the direction of -Major F. U. Farquhar and Captain Charles J. Allen, U. S. A., and from -the U. S. Land Surveys, published in fifteen sheets, on the scale of -inch to mile, by the Engineer Department of the Army, in 1881. The -hydrographic data from this source are supplemented from the latest -map of Minnesota published by the U. S. General Land Office, from the -sectional maps of Minnesota and of the Upper Mississippi lately issued -by Jewett and Son of St. Paul, and from various other sources, in -protracting the branches of the main stream and locating the lakes, -etc., beyond the area shown on the Engineer charts. The Jewett maps -are the best ones I have seen among those published by private -enterprise; the map of Minnesota for which a certain Chicago firm is -responsible is the worst of all those which have appeared of late -years. My corner-map of the Infant Mississippi or "Cradled Hercules," -on a much larger scale than the rest, is reduced from Brower's map of -the Itasca State Park, with the author's kind permission; the names -given to the numerous features of the Itascan source of the -Mississippi are those now officially recognized, with the addition of -a few which I have myself bestowed in the course of my notes on Pike, -among other results of my recent tour of observation. In lettering the -main part of this chart, my idea was, first, to illustrate Pike, by -marking his camps with their dates, along the river, and also his -trail, where he went overland; it is believed that this has been done -with all the accuracy that a map of this scale permits, except for the -route from Leech lake back to the Mississippi, which has never -been--and probably never will be--ascertained with all desirable -exactitude. Secondly, I intended to give the actual present names of -all the natural and artificial features which are delineated; and -thirdly, to add to these designations all the synonymy and other -historical data which the map could conveniently carry. Though there -is theoretically no end to the information of this kind which might -be put upon a map, the practical limitations in any given case are -obvious; and overcrowded lettering would be rather confusing than -helpful to the reader. In general, the historical data which have been -selected to be legended are in direct connection with and support of -Pike's text and of my commentary thereupon. Only those who have long -experienced the practical difficulty of making a good printer or -draughtsman misspell words in order to reproduce historical forms -literally can appreciate the obstacles to complete success in such an -undertaking; but I indulge the hope that this chart, whatever its -imperfections may be, will be found useful enough to warrant the great -pains which have been taken to approximate accuracy. - -As in editing Lewis and Clark, so in working upon Pike, I have been -encouraged and assisted by many friends, not all of whom have I the -pleasure of knowing personally. I am under special obligations to Mr. -Alfred J. Hill of St. Paul, Minn., whose knowledge of the history and -geography of the Upper Mississippi region is not less accurate than -extensive. Mr. Hill has been good enough to accompany me throughout -Pt. 1 of the work, and give me the benefit of his close scrutiny of -the press-proofs, in the form of constant suggestion and criticism, -besides frequent references to other available sources of information -which I might have overlooked. His valued co-operation to this extent -increases very appreciably the confidence which the reader may feel in -all that relates to the Mississippi Voyage.[NP-1] Mr. R. I. Holcombe, -county historian of Missouri, now of the U. S. Marshal's office in St. -Paul, has criticised those pages of Pt. 2 which relate to the Osage -river. The same friendly attentions have been bestowed upon the whole -of Pike's route in Colorado by Mr. Wm. M. Maguire of Denver; and upon -various points concerning the pueblos of New Mexico and Arizona, by -Mr. F. W. Hodge of the U. S. Bureau of Ethnology. Hon. J. V. Brower -of St. Paul, Commissioner of the Itasca State Park, has made me free to -use his map of the park in connection with the new historico-geographical -chart of the Upper Mississippi. The Hon. the Secretaries of War and of -State have granted permission to examine official archives of their -respective Departments; this research, in the War Department, has been -facilitated by Mr. John Tweedale, Chief Clerk, and Mr. David Fitz -Gerald, Librarian; in the State Department, by Mr. W. W. Rockhill, -Chief Clerk; Mr. Andrew H. Allen, Chief of the Bureau of Rolls and -Library, and Mr. Walter Manton of the same Bureau. Gen. A. W. Greely, -Chief Signal Officer, U. S. Army; Gen. T. L. Casey, late Chief of -Engineers, U. S. Army, and Mr. W. W. Winship, Chief Draughtsman of the -same; Major J. W. Powell, late Director of the U. S. Geological -Survey, and Director of the Bureau of Ethnology, Smithsonian -Institution; Mr. Henry Gannett and Mr. A. H. Thompson of the same -Survey; Prof. G. Brown Goode, Director of the U. S. National Museum, -and Prof. Otis T. Mason of that Museum; Prof. Harry King, of the U. S. -General Land Office; Hon. D. M. Browning, Commissioner of Indian -Affairs, and Mr. R. F. Thompson of the same Bureau; Mr. L. O. Howard, -Chief of the Division of Entomology of the U. S. Department of -Agriculture; Mr. A. R. Spofford, Librarian of Congress; Prof. N. H. -Winchell, Director of the Geological Survey of Minnesota; Hon. Charles -Aldrich, Curator of the Iowa State Historical Department; Mr. R. G. -Thwaites, Secretary of the Historical Society of Wisconsin; Mr. D. L. -Kingsbury, Acting Secretary of the Historical Society of Minnesota; -Hon. C. C. James, Deputy Minister of Agriculture of Ontario, and Hon. -A. Blue of the Bureau of Mines of Ontario, have each rendered valued -official or personal favors, or both. I am also indebted in various -ways, most of which are indicated in their respective connections in -the course of my notes, to ex-President Benjamin Harrison; Mr. W. H. -Harrison of North Bend, O.; Mrs. B. H. Eaton of El Paso, Tex.; -Governor A. W. McIntire of Colorado; R. T. Durrett, LL. D., of -Louisville, Ky.; Prof. E. D. Cope of Philadelphia; Mr. James Bain, -Jr., of the Public Library of Toronto; Mr. L. P. Sylvain, Assistant -Librarian of Parliament, Ottawa; Lieutenant J. R. Williams of the -Third Artillery, U. S. A.; Lieutenant H. M. Chittenden of the Corps of -Engineers, U. S. A.; Rev. O. S. Bunting of Trenton, N. J.; Prof. J. D. -Butler of Madison, Wis.; Mr. W. P. Garrison of the New York Nation; -Judge Thos. H. Bacon of Hannibal, Mo.; Judge Nathan Richardson of -Little Falls, Minn.; Mr. Charles Hallock of Hallock, Minn.; Mr. H. D. -Harrower of New York, N. Y.; Mr. T. H. Lewis of St. Paul, Minn.; Mr. -C. H. Small of Pueblo, Col.; Mr. Geo. R. Buckman of Colorado Springs, -Col.; Mr. D. Bosse of Great Bend, Kas., and Mr. Luther R. Smith of -Washington, D. C. Mrs. Mary B. Anderson of Washington, D. C., has -taken great pains in preparing under my direction an index, of -somewhat unusual extent and special difficulty, which I am led to -believe will be found exceptionally accurate. Mr. Robert M. Trulan and -Mr. H. E. Gore-Kelly of the Mershon Printing Company, Rahway, N. J., -have read the proofs with untiring zeal as well as professional skill. -Mr. Francis P. Harper has set no limit to the extent to which my -editorial work might be protracted, leaving the substance of these -volumes entirely to my discretion; and I have returned the compliment -by deferring to his judgment in all that relates to the manufacture of -a book which may be found worthy to stand by the side of Lewis and -Clark. - - ELLIOTT COUES. - - SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION, - WASHINGTON, D. C., - _June 30th, 1895_. - -FOOTNOTE: - -[NP-1] Since these words were penned Mr. Hill has made the long portage, -alas! His death occurred at St. Paul, on the 15th inst. - - - - -MEMOIR OF - -ZEBULON MONTGOMERY PIKE. - -BY ELLIOTT COUES. - - -The best Life of Pike we have had is that which was prepared by Henry -Whiting and published in 1845 in Jared Sparks' Library of American -Biography, vol. xv. (or new series vol. v.), pp. 217-314. This -excellent memoir might be now reproduced, were it not mainly occupied -with the account of those expeditions to which these volumes are -devoted, and thus for the most part superfluous in the present -connection. It still continues to be a main source of our information -concerning the events of Pike's life before and after those exploits -of 1805-7 which immortalized his name, and is particularly valuable in -all that relates to his closing career, as the biographer was himself -a distinguished soldier and competent military critic.[M-1] - -But I have much new matter to offer, derived from a thorough -examination of the archives of the War Department, which include many -original and hitherto unpublished documents in Pike's case,[M-2] from -diligent search among contemporaneous records of the war of 1812-15, -and from various other sources. - - * * * * * - -The Pike family resided in New Jersey for several generations. One -Captain John Pike acquired his military title in Indian warfare. -Zebulon Pike, the father of Zebulon Montgomery Pike, had been a -captain in the Revolutionary army, and had served in the levies of -1791, when he was made a captain of infantry Mar. 5th, 1792; he was -assigned to the Third sub-Legion Sept. 4th, 1792, and to the 3d -Infantry Nov. 1st, 1796; he became major Mar. 21st, 1800, and was -transferred to the 1st Infantry Apr. 1st, 1802; he was brevetted -lieutenant-colonel July 10th, 1812, and honorably discharged June -15th, 1815. He died July 27th, 1834. His son, Zebulon Montgomery, was -born at Lamberton, afterward a south part of Trenton, N. J., Jan. 5th, -1779.[M-3] - -During Zebulon Montgomery's childhood his parents removed to a place -in Bucks Co., Pa., near the Delaware river, and thence to Easton, Pa. -Whiting says that he was remembered by some of his schoolmates who -were living in 1845, "as a boy of slender form, very fair complexion, -gentle and retiring disposition, but of resolute spirit. Instances are -mentioned in which his combative energies were put to a test, which -would reflect no discredit upon his subsequent career." He had only a -common school education, which appears to have been as slight in -quality as it was short in duration, though he was at one time under -the tuition of a Mr. Wall, a person of local repute in mathematics. He -entered the army as a raw, shy country youth, of the most slender -acquirements in any direction, whose main making of a man was -ambition. - -The records of young Pike's earliest military service are variant in -some particulars not of much consequence. In one of his letters, -printed beyond, p. lxv, he says that he entered the army when he was -15 years old. This would be in or about 1794, and doubtless refers to -his cadetship. According to his biographer, he entered his father's -company as a cadet, date not given; was commissioned as an ensign of -the 2d Infantry Mar. 3d, 1799; promoted to be a first lieutenant in -the same regiment Apr. 24th, 1800, and arranged to the 1st Infantry in -1802. In Heitman's Historical Register[M-4] it appears that Zebulon -Montgomery Pike, of New Jersey, was first appointed from New Jersey to -be a second lieutenant of the 2d Infantry, Mar. 3d, 1799; was next -promoted to be first lieutenant of the same regiment, Nov. 1st, 1799; -and then transferred to the 1st Infantry, Apr. 1st, 1802. Whatever may -have been the facts in the discrepant cases of the earlier dates, -there is no uncertainty from April 1st, 1802, when the name and rank -became First Lieutenant Z. M. Pike, 1st Regiment of U. S. Infantry. It -was as such that this young officer was first detailed for detached -service in the exploration of the Mississippi, by order of General -James Wilkinson, dated from the Commanding General's headquarters at -St. Louis, Mo., July 30th, 1805. - -Pike had not before been distinguished from any other meritorious and -zealous subaltern, though his qualities had already attracted -favorable attention. His selection by General Wilkinson for this duty -was the beginning of all his greatness. The letter in which the detail -was made will be found elsewhere (vol. ii, pp. 842-844). The principal -other dates of Pike's brief but brilliant military career may be -conveniently given here, though in so doing I anticipate events which -will come up again in their regular order: His promotion to a -captaincy in his regiment occurred by routine Aug. 12th, 1806, when he -was voyaging up the Osage, early in his second expedition. He became -major of the 6th Infantry May 3d, 1808, in less than a year after his -return from his tour in Mexico--a journey which was directly -continuous with his second, or Arkansaw expedition, but one which, -having been involuntarily performed, he chose to separate formally -from the other, and to make known as his "third" expedition. He became -the lieutenant-colonel of the 4th Infantry Dec. 31st, 1809. From Apr. -3d, 1812, to July 3d of that year, he was on duty as deputy -quartermaster-general. He became the colonel of the 15th Infantry July -6th, 1812, and was appointed to be brigadier-general Mar. 12th, 1813. -But before this appointment was confirmed General Pike had been killed -at the head of the troops he led to the assault on York, Upper Canada, -April 27th, 1813, aged 34 years, 3 months, 22 days. - -I am favored by Lieutenant J. R. Williams, of the army, with the -following copy of the rough draught of a hitherto unpublished letter -from General John R. Williams of Detroit to Major Amos Holton, giving -an interesting picture of Pike, framed in his early environment: - - DETROIT, May 20, 1845. - - MAJOR AMOS HOLTON, - DEAR SIR, - - I have recd your esteemed favor of the 14th April last, on - the interesting subject of your contemplated publication of - a Biographical memoir, illustrative of the Character and - services of the late Brigadier Genl. Zebulon Montgomery - Pike of the U. S. Army. The half Sheet of the Albany Argus - which you designed to accompany your letter, and which - gives an account of a night battle on the Champlain - frontier, I regret to say, has not been received. - - The period of my acquaintance with the subject of your - contemplated memoir, is indeed distant and remote; and - altho' those days are still cherished in my recollection as - the halcyon and pristine days of my youth and vigor, Yet, I - cannot but be truly sensible that many interesting - incidents have escaped my recollection in the lapse of - forty-five years. - - Soon after my arrival at Camp Allegheny in the month of May - 1800 I became acquainted with Lieut. Zebulon Montgomery - Pike of the 2d Regt. U. S. Infy, he was shortly afterwards - appointed Adjutant of the Regiment, in which Capacity he - served during the Years 1800 & 1801. No officer could be - more attentive prompt and efficient in the execution of the - several duties of his office--nor was there any more - emulous to acquire a perfect knowledge of the Military - profession, nor more zealous, ardent and persevering in the - pursuit of scientific improvement. - - It was these qualities and disposition of mind that laid - the foundation of the subsequent Character and fame of - Zebulon M. Pike and would probably have introduced him had - he lived, to the highest honors, at least, in the military - profession under the Republic. - - I then understood that his only means of Education had been - such as could be obtained in Garrison under the eye of his - father then Major Pike at the several posts he commanded, - notwithstanding these disadvantages he was a tolerable good - english scholar and wrote a good hand when I knew him and - had also acquired by his own persevering industry a - tolerably good knowledge of the french language--this I - know from the fact of having frequently corrected, at his - own request, several of his translations from Fenelon's - Telemachus. - - Pike was very gentlemanly in his deportment--manners - agreeable & polished, rather reserved in general and - somewhat taciturn except when incited to conversation on - some topic in which he felt interest and considered worthy - of his attention he had less levity in his character than - even many of his brother officers Senior to him in Years - and Rank. His appearance was military yet somewhat peculiar - he generally leaned or inclined his head on one side so - that the tip of his Chapeau touched his right shoulder when - on parade--His Stature was about five feet eight inches - tolerably square and robust for his Age which I think must - have been Twenty Years in 1800. His Complexion was then - Ruddy, eyes blue, light hair and good features his habits - were in keeping with his character, uniformly abstemious - and temperate his attention to duty unremitted. At that - period the most vexatious evil and obstacle that attended - the maintenance of discipline in the Army was the general - and extensive use of Ardent Spirits, Whiskey among the Men - which was constantly being introduced in Camp by the Men & - Women attached to the service and other hangers on around - the Camp--On one occasion returning to Camp from Pittsburgh - about ten o'clock in the evening Pike and myself being - desirous of detecting the Soldiers in their Clandestine - manoeufvres in the introduction of whiskey approaching the - Camp silently through the bushes and occasionally halting - to listen succeeded in capturing several fellows with jugs - & bottles of their favorite beverage, not however without a - race after them. On another occasion while going down the - Ohio river in flats--The flats always halted for the night - at some convenient place furnishing good ground & - conveniences for Bivouacking for the Night a guard being - mounted and Sentinels placed at suitable points around the - Camp. The Soldiers were then permitted to Land build fires - and bivouac on shore if they thought proper to do so in - preference to remaining in the flats crowded as they - were--there was about 70 men detailed for the purpose of - managing Ten flats containing the Provisions under my - Charge. The Signal for embarking in the Morning was the - Reveille at day break and the General immediately after. It - being then about the 20 December the weather was Cold and a - good deal of ice drifting in the River. The men generally - preferred the Company boats where they had to labor less - than in those of the Commissariat where they had to labor - constantly to keep up in the line agreeably to the order - regulating the movement of the troops. One morning they - appeared to be desirous of escaping from the Commissariat - boats to their respective Company boats in hopes of getting - rid of the duty to which they were detailed and left the - boats as fast as they were ordered to embark until Pike - observing their disobedience seized and threw several fire - brans at those in the Act of leaving the boats to which - they had been detailed and called to me to assist him by - which means the men were taught a lesson which was not - required to be repeated the residue of the journey down the - River. - - This prompt and decided course on the part of Pike was not - only well timed but very important as it prevented much - disorder and Confusion which would inevitably have ensued - had he taken the ordinary and regular but slow steps to - punish the Mutineers, to bring them to a sense of duty. the - moment of departure had arrived, the boats were unmoored, - and those which had precedence were already under way - floating down the rapid current of the Ohio; The Colonels - boat particularly, to whom he would have had to Report was - already at some distance--The alternative then, which he - adopted as quick as lightning was not only judicious but - necessary and indispensible under the Circumstances of the - Case. It operated a Salutary and instantaneous effect upon - the insubordinate Soldiery which at once brought them to a - sense of duty and order. This circumstance in my opinion - speaks volumes in favor of Pike. The quickness and decision - which characterized the transaction furnishes an index to - his character neither to be mistaken nor misunderstood. - - After our arrival at a point equidistant between Fort - Massac & the Confluence of the Ohio & Mississippi Rivers, - about eighteen miles below Fort Massac the Army landed on - the 5th January 1801 at a high Bluff on the right Bank of - the River where they encamped cleared the ground which was - covered with heavy timber laid out an encampment after the - plan of Greenville built with log huts which was named - Wilkinsonville. - - Some time in the summer of 1801 he obtained a furlow to - visit Cincinnati as it was believed, on a matrimonial - expedition at which time he was married to his present - relict Mrs. Pike. - - During the period alluded to, the duties of the Adjutant - were arduous and unremitting--especially during the - encampment on the Allegheny in addition to guard and police - duty--We had Battalion drill twice or thrice a week and - Company drill every day; and Officer drill once or twice a - week, thus you can perceive that our time was industriously - appropriated to the acquisition of military knowledge--We - had also the advantage of being drilled by officers that - served under the gallant Genl. Wayne and who composed part - of his Army at the memorable and decisive Battle of the - 20th of August 1794 at the Miami Rapids-- - - Colonel John Francis Hamtramck[M-5] of the 1st Regt U. S. - Infy acted as Brigadier Genl. under Genl. Wilkinson being - the senior Colonel of the U. S. Army--his remains now lie - within a stone's throw of my Office, near the Roman - Catholic Church of St Anne--As a Memorial of affection the - principal Town above this City and within the County of - Wayne bears his name Hamtramck as he was much beloved by - the inhabitants of this Country. - - Allow me here to make mention of the principal Officers - composing the Command at Camp Allegheny. Colo. David - Strong, Commandg 2d Regt Infy, Major Moses Porter with his - Co. of Artillery--Major Turner Brigade Inspector Captains - Graeton, Sedgwick, Shoemaker, (Visscher, stationed at fort - Fayette) Grey, Lukens, Claiborne--Lieuts. Rand, Whipple, - Schiras, Hook, Meriwether Lewis, Wilson--John Wilson--Z. M. - Pike, Dill--& to which was added at Wilkinsonville Lieuts. - Williams, Brevoort, Hughes, Hilton Many Blue & Others - together with a Battalion of the 4th Regt. under Major - Butler--making in the aggregate a force of about 1000 - effective men.[M-6] - - During the summer and autumn we were visited by Genl. - Wilkinson & his staff Composed of Lieuts Walbach & Macomb & - Lieut. Colo. Williams of the Engineer Corps.[M-7] about this - period sickness among the troops and many deaths occurred - in consequence of which the Troops were removed by order - of Genl. Wilkinson to Cumberland Heights[*] a season of - inactivity and a prospect unfavorable to Military life - prevailing--many Officers resigned and sought to obtain a - livelihood by other means than the profession of arms. - These and other subsequent events are matters of history - and I shall therefore close these short notes by pointing - to the subsequent life and services of the lamented Zebulon - M. Pike. - - My opportunities of acquaintance with him arose from the - Circumstance of having messed with Captain Peter Shoemaker - and himself about Eight Months without intermission we - three being the only members of the Mess. - - In conclusion, it may not be inappropriate to remark that - the period alluded to was during a state of peace. Yet, - whilst the prospect lasted that the Troops might soon - expect active service against the frontiers of the then - possessions of Spain--The Zeal, Ardor, Enterprize and - ambition of our Army could not have been surpassed; and - would have sustained a comparison with the best and most - glorious days of the Revolution, or of the late War with - Britain, or the later achievements of our Braves against - the forces of Mexico. - - You are at liberty to use these notes in such manner as - will meet the object you have in view. - - With respectful Consideration - I am Dear Sir Your Obedt Servt - JNO. R. WILLIAMS. - - MAJOR AMOS HOLTON - Washington City, D. C. - - transmitted the foregoing by - Mail Augt 26th 1846.[M-8] - -[*] Mr. Jefferson having been elected President of the U. S. The -policy of the Government changed instead of wresting the posts on the -west bank of the Mississippi from Spain by force of Arms as was -previously contemplated--They were eventually obtained by peaceable & -Successful negociation. (Orig. note.) - - - -The "matrimonial expedition" to which the foregoing letter quaintly -alludes was successful, like Pike's other expeditions of later date -and greater celebrity. The young lieutenant was married in 1801 (day -of the month not ascertained) to Clarissa Brown, daughter of General -John Brown of Kentucky. Whiting says that the issue of this connection -was "three daughters and one son. Only one of these children reached -the maturity of life, a daughter, who married Symmes Harrison, the son -of General [William Henry] Harrison, and became a widow, many years -since, with several children." Whiting continues with the following -statements, embodying perhaps as much as has hitherto been published -of Pike's domestic relations: - - Mrs. Pike withdrew to the seclusion of a family residence - [at North Bend] on the Ohio River just below Cincinnati, - soon after the fall of her gallant husband, where she has - since lived. It is well recollected by most of the officers - who served on Lake Ontario in the early part of the - campaign of 1813, that he regarded her with enthusiastic - sentiments, believing her to share in all his ardent - longings after distinction, and willing to make any - sacrifice for their fulfilment. No doubt it was with a - heart strengthened by such feelings, that she parted with - him on the eve of the expedition in which he fell; though - she may have felt, during her long widowhood, that the - sacrifice, with all its honorable alleviations, has been at - times as much as that heart could bear. - - There was found an interesting memorandum on one of the - blank pages of a copy of "Dodsley's Economy of Human - Life,"[M-9] which General Pike habitually carried about - with him. After affectionately alluding to his wife, and - his son then living, he lays down two maxims, which he - wishes may ever be present to the mind of his child, "as he - rises from youth to manhood." "First: Preserve your honor - free from blemish. Second: Be always ready to die for your - country." This son was cut off too soon to exemplify the - former in his life, or the latter in his death; but the - father, in his life and in his death, exemplified them - both. - -On seeking for information in regard to General Pike's daughter and -her children, I first wrote to ex-President Benjamin Harrison, by whom -I was favored with prompt reply, in part as follows: - - 674 NORTH DELAWARE STREET, - INDIANAPOLIS, IND., May 24, 1894. - - MY DEAR SIR: - - I have your letter of May 21st. My uncle, Symmes Harrison, - married the daughter of General Pike and left several - children; but I do not think I know of but one who - survives--William Henry Harrison, who lives in the - neighborhood of the old Pike homestead on the Ohio River, - about two and a half miles below my grandfather's old home - at North Bend.... I cannot give you the names of General - Pike's children; I was too young to have any knowledge of - them. Possibly my eldest sister, Mrs. Bettie H. Eaton, who - is now residing at El Paso, Texas, may be able to give you - some information about the Pike family. - - Very truly yours, - [Signed] BENJAMIN HARRISON. - -Mrs. Bettie Harrison Eaton was kind enough to reply to my further -inquiries, in a letter dated El Paso, Tex., July 2d, 1894, from which -I quote in substance: - - My cousin's, William Henry Harrison's, mother was a - daughter of General Pike, whose maiden name was Clarissa - Harlowe Pike. She was married to my uncle, John Cleves - Symmes Harrison, but in what year I do not know. Indeed, I - know very little about the Pike family, as I always - understood that my aunt was General Pike's only child; if - he had others I never heard of them. I remember her very - slightly, as I was quite a little girl when she died. Her - mother, Mrs. General Pike, of whom I have a better memory, - was a tall, dignified, rather austere looking woman, who - always dressed in deep black, wearing always a large black - Canton crape shawl and a black crape turban on her head, - which to my childish eyes gave her a somewhat awe-inspiring - appearance. She was a highly educated and accomplished - woman, and a fine French scholar. She kept for many years a - diary, which was written in French. My cousin, to whom I - refer you, lives on the old Pike homestead, and could - probably give you the dates you wish, as he no doubt has - the family Bible, and the old graveyard where the family - are buried is on the place. - -On applying to William Henry Harrison of North Bend, O., I received a -brief note dated Sept. 10th, 1894, in which the following information -is given: "My house burned some years ago, when all General Pike's -private papers were lost. He had but one child, my mother Clara. His -wife's maiden name was Clara Brown; she was the daughter of Captain -John Brown of Revolutionary fame." - - * * * * * - -With thus much--none too complete, but all that I have in -hand--concerning Pike's private life, we return to his public career. -The unnumbered extant notices to which the fame that he acquired gave -rise are mainly and most naturally devoted to the consideration of the -Mississippian, Arkansan, and Mexican exploits which form the matter of -the present volumes, but which need not occupy the present biographer, -as they speak for themselves. These cover the dates of 1805-6-7; and -before taking up Pike's life in 1808, we may next consider the -bibliography of the books to which his expeditions gave rise. - -The earliest one of these, forerunner of the regular edition of 1810, -is entitled: - - _An Account | of a | Voyage | up the Mississippi River, - from St. | Louis to its source; | made under the orders of - the War De- | partment, by Lieut. Pike, of the Uni- | ted - States Army, in the Years 1805 and | 1806. Compiled from - Mr. Pike's Jour- | nal. |_ - - Pamphlet, 8vo., pp. 1-68, no date, no author, no editor, no - publisher, no printer, no place of publication; title, - verso blank, pp. 1, 2; text, pp. 3-67, with colophon - ("Finis."); p. 68 being "Extract of a letter from N. - Boilvin [Nicholas Boivin] Indian agent, | to the Secretary - of War, dated St. Louis, | Oct, 6, 1806. |" - -This is an extremely rare tract. I have handled two copies, one of -which I own, title page gone; the other being a perfect example in the -Library of Congress at Washington. There is a third in the Ridgway -Library of Philadelphia; and Sabin's Bibl. Amer. cites a fourth, in -the library of the American Antiquarian Society at Worcester, Mass. -These are all that I know of, though of course others exist. The -authorship and circumstances of publication remain unknown, to me at -least. Sabin gives the date 1807; this is probably correct, certainly -true within a year, but questionable. I adopt it, in view of its -probability, and in the absence of conclusive evidence against it, -though Whiting says 1808. But early in 1808 Pike was already arranging -for the publication of his own book, which appeared in 1810. Pike does -not even allude to this publication, either in his own book, or in any -of the manuscripts I have seen in which the latter is mentioned. On -consultation with Mr. A. R. Spofford over the general aspect and -"make-up," no definite conclusion could be reached by that -exceptionally well-versed librarian. It is supposed by some, not -without plausibility, to have been a government publication; but Mr. -Spofford's ignorance of the fact, if it be such, is against this -supposition; for a publication which he cannot recognize on sight as -having been issued in Washington is unlikely. The tract looks as if it -formed a part of something else; witness the peculiar set of the title -page, the conclusion of the Pike matter on p. 67, and the appearance -on p. 68 of the Boivin letter, having no obvious connection with the -rest. However all this may really have been, there is no question of -the genuineness of this unauthenticated narrative. Pike never penned -it--he could not write so well as the anonymous author of this tract -did. But whoever wrote it had Pike's original manuscript journal or -note-book before him, and followed him closely, faithfully, and -accurately. Pike's case is put in the third person by the writer, who -gives in narrative form a better account of the Mississippi voyage -than Pike's slender literary attainments enabled him to write for -himself. This "text of 1807," as I shall call it, when I have occasion -to cite it in my commentary, is an invaluable check upon Pike's own -itinerary; he cannot have been unaware of its existence, and the -friendly hand which thus first gave to the world the best account -extant of the Mississippi voyage should not have been ignored when -Pike came to write out his notes for publication in the princeps -edition of his several expeditions, of date 1810.[M-10] - - * * * * * - -Immediately upon his escape from his Spanish captors and hosts, and -his return to his native land, Pike set about writing his book. This -was finished--or at any rate so far advanced that a contract for its -publication had been made--early in 1808 (see letter of May 27th, -1808, beyond, p. lxi). The original edition of his Expeditions is as -follows: - - _[1810.]--An Account of Expeditions | to the | Sources of - the Mississippi, | and through the | Western Parts of - Louisiana, | to the Sources of the | Arkansaw, Kans, La - Platte, and Pierre | Jaun, Rivers; | performed by order of - the | Government of the United States | during the years - 1805, 1806, and 1807. | And a Tour through | the | Interior - Parts of New Spain, | when conducted through these - Provinces, | by order of | the Captain-General, | in the - Year 1807. | ---- | By Major Z. M. Pike. | Illustrated by - maps and charts. | ---- | Philadelphia: | Published by C. - and A. Conrad, Co. No. 30, Chesnut Street. Somer- | vell & - Conrad, Petersburgh. Bonsal, Conrad, & Co. Norfolk, | and - Fielding Lucas, Jr. Baltimore. | ---- | John Binns, - Printer......1810. | One Vol. 8vo._ - - CONTENTS. - - Portrait of Pike, frontispiece. - - Title, backed with copyright, pp. [1], [2]. - - To the Public, being Preface by Pike and publisher's - Apology, pp. [3]-[5]; blank, p. [6]. - - Dedication, To the President and Members of the U. S. M. P. - S., one leaf not paginated, verso blank (= pp. 7, 8). - - Part I., being the Mississippi Voyage: Pike's Itinerary, - pp. 1-105; blank, p. 106; Meteorological Tables, 5 - unnumbered leaves, raising pages to 116, last blank. - - Part II., being the Arkansaw Journey: Instructions to Pike, - pp. 107-110; Pike's Itinerary, pp. 111-204. - - Part III., being the Mexican Tour: Pike's Itinerary, pp. - 205-277; p. 278 blank; one blank leaf; Meteorological - Table, one unpaged leaf. - - Appendix to Part I., pp. 1-66 (last not numbered) + 2 folding - Tables; contains Documents Nos. 1-18, and some others (No. - 18, pp. 41-66, is Observations, etc., on the Mississippi - Voyage); the folders are Tables C and F (other tables being - on pages), respectively to face p. 40 and p. 66. - - Appendix to Part II., pp. 1-53 (p. 54 blank), + 1 folding - Table to face p. 53; contains (No. 1) A Dissertation, etc., - on the Arkansaw Journey, pp. 1-18; (No. 2) Lieut. - Wilkinson's Report on his Arkansaw Expedition, pp. 19-32; - and other Documents to No. 15. - - Appendix to Part III., pp. 1-87 (p. 88 blank); contains - (No. 1) Geographical, Statistical, and General - Observations, etc., on the Mexican Tour, pp. 1-51, by far - the most important thing in the book; No. 2, pp. 52, 53, a - certain Vocabulary belonging to the Mississippi Voyage, and - therefore to App. to Part I.; with other Documents to No. - 19. - - Map, Falls of St. Anthony, page size. - - Map, Mississippi river, about 29-7/8 x 9 inches. - - Map, the First Part of Pike's Chart of Louisiana, folding, - about 171/2 x 171/2 inches, called Plate I. - - Map, the Second Part of Pike's Chart of Louisiana, folding, - about 17 x 151/2 inches, called Plate II. - - Map, Internal Provinces of New Spain, about 181/4 x 173/4 - inches. - - Map, Sketch of the Viceroyalty of New Spain, about 15-5/8 x - 12-7/8 inches. - - Total pages 8 + 278 + 10 + 4 + 66 + 54 + 88 = 508, some not paginated, - a few blank; 5 sets of pagination. Inserts 1 portrait, 3 - folding tables, 6 maps (5 folding) = 10. Folders all may be - found in a separate vol. in some copies. - -It has been said, "The pen is mightier than the sword." Pike's pen -proved mightier than his sword, and pistols too, in putting bookmaking -to confusion and editors to despair. It would be hard to find a match -for the disorder in which Pike's materials were set forth in print, -especially in the several Appendixes: Even the patient printer would -not let it go without published apology. No editor has hitherto been -found expert or rash enough to reproduce anything like the original -arrangement of the "Parts," "Appendixes" with their numerous pieces, -folding "Tables," etc. The English editor, who first undertook to -bring something like cosmos out of this chaos, created a new book by -weaving as much as he could of the matter of the Appendixes into the -main text, or into footnotes thereto, thereby greatly reducing the -bulk of the appendicial texts. But these contained documents which -proved refractory to such treatment; the plan could not be fully -carried out, for there was a residuum which still called for an -Appendix. In fact, the real bulk of Pike's cargo is in these -Appendixes; his Itineraries--the only portions of his book which were -printed in large type, as main text--being less important, if not less -interesting, than the rest of the freight. In approaching my own -editorial labors, my intention was to adhere as closely as possible to -the arrangement of the original. This I flatter myself I have -succeeded in doing, with a few important exceptions to which attention -is pointedly directed in my notes. These transpositions, with the -introduction of chapter-heads, and co-ordination of all of the -original book in uniform typography, have probably effected the -required result. - -In 1811 Pike's work was also published, from another MS. copy, with -many modifications, in a handsome quarto edition, as follows: - - _[1811.]--Exploratory Travels | through the | Western - Territories | of | North America: | comprising a | Voyage - from St. Louis, on the Mississippi, | to the | Source of - that River, | and a | Journey through the Interior of - Louisiana, | and the | North-eastern Provinces of New - Spain. | Performed in the years 1805, 1806, 1807, by Order - of the Government of the United States. | ---- | By Zebulon - Montgomery Pike, | Major 6th Regt. United States Infantry. - | ---- | London: | Printed for Longman, Hurst, Rees, Orme, - and Brown, | Paternoster-Row. | ---- | 1811. |_ - - One vol., 4to. Half-title, 1 leaf, verso blank; title, 1 - leaf, verso blank; advertisement, dated Jan. 28th, 1811, - and signed Thomas Rees, pp. v-ix; Congressional matters - taken from the App. to Part III. of the orig. ed., pp. - xi-xviii; contents, pp. xix, xx; main text, pp. 1-390; - Appendix, pp. 391-436; colophon, J. G. Barnard, Printer, - Skinner-street, London. The copy examined has only two - maps--the Mississippi, reduced to 4to page size; Louisiana - and New Mexico, prepared by putting together two of Pike's - orig. maps and reducing the result to 10-1/8 x 13-7/8 - inches. Folding tables reset to page size. - -This is the standard English edition, prepared under the careful and -able editorship of Dr. Thomas Rees, from a manuscript copy transmitted -to England at the time that the original manuscript went to press in -America. This edition, and not the American of 1810, is the basis of -the French and Dutch versions, and is also the one which was textually -reprinted as the Denver edition of 1889. Dr. Rees made Pike a much -better book than the author made for himself. The very great -differences from the American original, due to the English editor's -literary skill, are modestly set forth in the latter's Advertisement. -It appears from this that the MS. transmitted to England "was divided -into six parts, comprising the three journals which follow, and the -observations pertaining to each in a separate portion." As the -appendicial matters were received "in the desultory manner in which -they were originally composed, the editor judged it for the advantage -of the work to restore them, as nearly as he possibly could, in -distinct paragraphs, to the places they had first occupied in the -journal, thus rendering it unnecessary to lead the reader a second -time over the same ground." In other words, Dr. Rees picked the -helter-skelter Appendixes to pieces, and wove most of their contents -into the main text, as already said. The accounts of the Indians on -the Upper Mississippi, and the Observations on New Spain, he -"preserved in their original state. The Notes and Appendixes, with -some variation of arrangement, have been printed after the -manuscripts, but a few articles have been omitted, as containing only -repetitions of what had already appeared in the body of the work. With -respect to the language and style of the Author, the Editor felt he -had a much more delicate task to perform than in the disposal of the -materials." He therefore preserved Pike's language in substance, but -corrected his grammar freely. Dr. Rees' avowal of the trouble he had -with proper names of persons and places will surprise no one who reads -the present edition and sees with what extraordinary perversions of -Indian, French, and Spanish names both Dr. Rees and myself had to -contend. Dr. Rees speaks also of the "ignorant and careless -transcriber" of the copy which reached him, and observes further: "It -is mortifying to find that in America, where the Author was -accessible, and might readily have elucidated any accidental -obscurities in his manuscript, the work has been printed in very -nearly as incorrect a state as it appeared in the present editor's -copy. The sheets of the American Edition reached here some time after -his own had been in the printer's hands, but its numerous errors, -discreditable certainly to the American press, left him little to -regret that they had not arrived at an earlier period." For the rest, -Dr. Rees remarks that he furnished "some cursory notes, which are -distinguished by the letter E," and adds: "In the account of New Spain -he has subjoined the population of several places from Humboldt's -recent 'Essai Politique,' in order to furnish the reader with the -means of instant comparison. It is pleasing to observe how nearly -these statements agree in the most material instances; and the -circumstance affords no slight evidence of the general accuracy of -Major Pike's information." He is charitable enough to refrain from -adding what else this circumstance evidences. Dr. Rees' further -introduction to his main text consists of the Congressional papers, -which in the orig. ed. form a part of the App. to Pt. 3, and which are -given this prominence, apparently, to authenticate the whole work in -the eyes of the English public by these officialities. In the copy of -the Rees edition which I have handled I find but two maps, reduced as -above said. - -This was followed in 1812 by a French version, the title and collation -of which are here given: - - _[1812]--Voyage | au | Nouveau-Mexique, | a la suite a'une - expedition ordonnee | par le Gouvernement des Etats-Unis, | - pour reconnoitre les sources des rivieres | Arkansas, - Kanses, la Platte et Pierre-jaune, | dans l'interieur de la - Louisiane occidentale. | Precede | a'une Excursion aux - Sources du Mississippi, | Pendant les annees 1805, 1806, et - 1807. | Par le Major Z. M. Pike. | Traduit de l'anglais | - Par M. Breton, Auteur de la Biblioth. geographique. | Orne - d'une Nouvelle Carte de la Louisiane, en trois parties. | - Tome Premier [Second]. | A Paris, | Chez D'Hautel, - Libraire, Rue de la Harpe, n^o. 80, | pres le College de - Justice. | -- | 1812. |_ - - Two vols., 8vo. Vol. I., pp. i-xvi, 1-368; Vol. II., pp. - 1-373, with 3 maps. In Vol. I. the half title p., backed de - l'imprimerie de L. Hausmann, Rue de la Harpe, N^o. 80, is - pp. i, ii; full title p., verso blank, is pp. iii, iv; - Preface du Traducteur, pp. v-xiv; sub-title, Voyage au - Mississippi, backed with errata, pp. xv, xvi; Avertissement - de l'auteur, pp. 1-6; Wilkinson's instructions to Pike of - July 30th, 1805, abstracted from one of the pieces of App. - to Pt. 3 of the orig. ed., pp. 7, 8; main text of the - Mississippi Voyage, pp. 9-236, ending Pt. 1 of the orig. - ed.; thence the Arkansaw Journey, with separate sub-title, - Voyage au Nouveau-Mexique, pp. 237-368, ending Vol. I., - with end of Pt. 2 of the orig. ed.--In Vol. II., half title - p. backed blank, pp. 1, 2: full title, backed blank, pp. 3, - 4; main text, pp. 5-373, beginning at date of Feb. 27th, - 1807, when Pike was starting on his involuntary Mexican - tour; this tour ending on p. 236, with end of the main - text of Pt. 3 of the orig. ed.; thence to end of vol. - various matters from the Appendixes of Pts. 2 and 3, - including Lieutenant Wilkinson's Arkansaw Report, pp. - 325-363, and a piece of padding, pp. 293-324, this last - being Remarques Additionelles sur le sol, les productions - et les habitans de la Nouvelle-Espagne, of which the editor - says that "ces details sont extraits en partie de - l'excellente histoire d'Amerique par Winterbotham, et de - l'ouvrage de l'abbe Clavigero." These 32 pages of padding - have no business in the book; I suppose they were wanted to - balance the bulk of the two volumes. The maps of this - edition are three in number, supposed to belong in Vol. II. - They are the Mississippi and the two Arkansaw maps, - prepared by Antoine Nau, redrawn and re-engraved, with - French names instead of English ones; the size is about the - same as that of the original; the execution is rather - better. The editor apologizes, Vol I., p. xiii, for not - reproducing Pike's two maps of Mexico, because he would not - venture "d'attenter a la propriete de M. de Humboldt," _i. e._, - steal Humboldt's thunder. For it seems that Humboldt - thought Pike had done so, and he had just previously so - expressed himself in a reclamation in Le Moniteur. Humboldt - compliments Pike pro forma, and proceeds to protest: "Mais - les cartes du Mexique, publiees sous son [Pike's] nom, ne - sont que des reductions de ma grande carte de la - Nouvelle-Espagne, sur laquelle le voyageur a trace sa route - de Santa-Fe par Cohahuila a Nacodolhes [Nacogdoches or - Natchitoches]." - -Humboldt's direct and unqualified charge of plagiarism against Pike, -which has never been answered and is probably unanswerable, is -reiterated in that one of his works entitled: Personal Narrative of -Travels to the Equinoctial Regions of the New Continent during the -Years 1799-1804. By Alexander de Humboldt and Aime Bonpland. Written -in French by Alexander de Humboldt, and translated into English by -Helen Maria Williams, Philadelphia, M. Carey, 1 vol., 8vo, Dec. 23d, -1815, on p. xxii of which we read: "Mr. Pike displayed admirable -courage in an important undertaking for the investigation of western -Louisiana; but unprovided with instruments, and strictly watched on -the road from Santa Fe to Natchitoches, he could do nothing towards -the progress of the geography of the provincias internas. The maps of -Mexico, which are annexed to the narrative of his journey, are -reduced from my great map of New Spain, of which I left a copy, in -1804, at the secretary of state's office at Washington." In this -connection Humboldt also makes the same well-founded charge against -Arrowsmith, saying, p. xxi: "My general map of the kingdom of New -Spain, formed on astronomical observations, and on the whole of the -materials which existed in Mexico in 1804, has been copied by Mr. -Arrowsmith, who has appropriated it to himself, by publishing it on a -larger scale under the title of New Map of Mexico, compiled from -original Documents, by Arrowsmith. It is very easy to recognize this -map from the number of chalcographical errors with which it abounds," -etc. - -Of all forms of dishonesty, literary larceny is the most futile, -because the surest of detection. Plagiarism is worse than a crime--it -is a blunder. If the matter stolen is worth stealing, the transaction -is certain to be exposed, sooner or later. The distinction between the -use and misuse of the literary labors of another is so plain and -simple that it cannot be misunderstood. It depends solely upon whether -acknowledgment be made or not. Plagiarism acknowledged is no -plagiarism--one has only to say "by your leave," to appropriate with -impunity whatever he desires. But this instant formula is -indispensable. Subsequent apology or explanation is impossible. -Humboldt took Pike red-handed; this the present biographer deplores; -but he can neither discover nor invent a defense. Pike's senselessness -in this matter aggravates the offense. To have acknowledged his -indebtedness to Humboldt and Bonpland, and then utilized their work to -any extent he chose, would have been shrewd policy, as well as honest -conduct; for Humboldt's was already a name to conjure with, and the -hitherto nameless young writer could not have done better for himself -than to cite such high authority in connection with his own work.[M-11] -I have reluctantly satisfied myself that Pike's map of New Spain is -no other than Humboldt's Carte Generale du Royaume de la Nouvelle -Espagne, with Nau's errors and some little further modification. - -The Dutch edition of Pike, 1812-13, is as follows: - - _[1812-13.]--Reize | naar | Nieuw-Mexico | en de - Binnenlanden van | Louisiana, | Voorgegaan door eenen togt - | naar de Bronnen der | Mississippi, | gedaan op last van - het Gouver- | nement der Vereenigde Staten | in de jaren - 1805, 1806 en 1807, | door den Majoor | Z. M. Pike. | -- | - Uit het Engelsch vertaald. | -- | Eerste [Tweede] Deel. | - met Kaarten. | -- | Te Amsterdam, bij | C. Timmer. | - MCDCCCXII [MDCCCXIII]. | Stilsteeg, N^o. 18. |_ - - Two vols., 8vo. Vol. I., 1812 (notice misprint of date on - title page), pp. i-viii, 1-327. Vol. II., 1813, two prel. - leaves, and pp. 1-374, with three maps. Printed at - Amsterdam by A. Breeman & Co. In Vol. I., title leaf, verso - blank, pp. i, ii; Voorberigt van den Vertaler (Translator's - Preface), pp. iii-viii, dated Amsterdam, Nov. 7th, 1812; - main text, pp. 1-327, of which the Mississippi voyage runs - to p. 218 inclusive, and the remainder finishes the - Arkansaw journey, these being respectively Pt. 1 and Pt. 2 - of the orig. ed. In Vol. II. a half title and a full title - make each one unpaged leaf, and the main text runs pp. - 1-374, being Pt. 3 of the orig. ed. The three maps belong - in this vol. - -The general form and style of this version are most like those of the -French translation, from which, however, the Dutch differs in various -particulars. It appears to have been based upon the English quarto -rather than upon the original Philadelphia octavo, and to have been -translated independently therefrom, as the French also was. Both the -Dutch and the French editions follow the English one in working the -matter of the Appendixes into the main text--in fact, _no_ edition -that I know of has hitherto followed the awkward and exasperating form -of Pike's own book. The anonymous Dutch translator introduces a new -preface, and a few short footnotes, not reproducing those of the -French translator; the three maps are re-engraved from those prepared -by Antoine Nau, as in the French edition, but with lettering of the -names in Dutch instead of French. - -The foregoing English, French, and Dutch editions were speedily -followed by a German version. This seems to be a scarce book; I have -not yet been able to find a copy. I presume that, like the French and -Dutch, it was modeled upon the London quarto; but with what -modifications, if any, aside from translation into another language, I -have no idea. - -The latest and best edition of Pike which has hitherto appeared in the -United States, was published in 1889, as follows: - - _[1889.] Exploratory Travels | through the | Western - Territories | of | North America: | comprising a | Voyage - from St. Louis, on the Mississippi, | to the | Source of - that river, | and a | Journey through the Interior of - Louisiana, | and the | North-eastern Provinces of New - Spain. | Performed in the years 1805, 1806, 1807, by Order - of the Government of the United States. | -- | By Zebulon - Montgomery Pike, | Major 6th Regt. United States Infantry. - | -- | London: | Paternoster-Row. | -- | 1811. | -- | - Denver: | W. H. Lawrence & Co. | 1889. |_ - - One vol., large 4^to. Engr. portrait, frontispiece, - answering to pp. i, ii; title, verso copyright, pp. iii, - iv; introduction (new, by Wm. M. Maguire, Denver, 1889), - pp. v-xii; missing, pp. xiii, xiv; Report of Committee, - etc. (1808), pp. xv-xxii (abstracted from Doc. No. 6 and - accompanying papers of Appendix III. of the original); - contents, pp. xxiii, xxiv, or pp. 23, 24; main text, pp. - 25-351; blank, p. 352; Appendix, pp. 353-394; Mississippi - map, reduced, opp. p. 24; 1st Louisiana map, reduced, opp. - p. 146; 2d do., do., opp. p. 208; maps of Falls of St. - Anthony and of Mexico not found; folding tables reset to - page size. - -As appears from the foregoing title and collation, this is a faithful -and complete reprint of the English quarto. The title page is -facsimiled with the camera, down to the publishers' names; the text -is identical throughout, barring such slight literal or punctual -differences as are necessarily incident to resetting type. The only -noticeable change from the London edition is that Dr. Rees' -advertisement is replaced by a new introduction, from the pen of -William M. Maguire, Esq., of Denver. This is a valuable feature; my -only regret is that so competent and conscientious an editor as Mr. -Maguire--one familiar with much of Pike's route, and enthusiastic on -the subject--did not give the work that extended critical revision -which would have forestalled my own commentary and left me to exercise -my editorial wits in some other direction. As it is, I am indebted to -my valued correspondent in several particulars which appear in their -proper connections in the course of my notes. - -It is needless to cite here the multiplied notices of Pike and of his -travels or his book which appear in ordinary biographical and -encyclopedic publications. But, aside from Whiting's Memoir, already -adduced, I may notice some special articles of more or less recent -date. - -The Pacific Railroad Reports, XI. 1855, pp. 19-22, contain a notice of -Pike's Expeditions, by the late eminent geographer, General Gouverneur -Kemble Warren. The routes are traced correctly, except in the instance -of sending Pike over the Continental Divide to headwaters of the -Colorado of the West; for General Warren says: "It appears that -Lieutenant Pike has the honor of being the first American explorer -that reached the sources of this large river [the Arkansaw], and the -second that crossed the divide between the waters of the Atlantic and -Pacific oceans." The first clause of this statement is correct; in the -second, the writer was misled. - -"Mungo-Meri-Paike" is not the name of the celebrated Ethiopian -explorer who was born at Fowlshiels, in Selkirkshire, Scotland, Sept. -20th, 1771, and became known to fame as Mungo Park, but a -phonetization of the way "Montgomery Pike" reverberated in Spanish -ears. Colonel James F. Meline's Two Thousand Miles on Horseback, -etc., New York, Hurd and Houghton, 1867, exploits Pike in an -interesting manner, especially in Letter xxix, pp. 234-245. Meline's -contribution to the present biography is particularly valuable, as it -gives some documentary evidence of the Spanish view of Pike's invasion -of New Mexico. Most of this we have in Pike's book; but one of the -papers which Colonel Meline presents, both in the original Spanish and -in an English version, must find a place here; I give it in English, -from Meline's pp. 243-245.[M-12] It is Governor Allencaster's report to -General Salcedo, of date Santa Fe, N. M., Apr. 1st, 1807: compare Pike -at p. 607 and following pages; also, p. 809. - -The Topeka Commonwealth, a Kansan newspaper, during the summer and -autumn of 1877 published a series of articles by Noble L. Prentis. -These were afterward gathered in a volume entitled: A Kansan Abroad, -what purports to be the second edition of which appeared in 1878, -Topeka, Geo. W. Martin, sm. 8vo, pp. 240. One of the articles in this -book, pp. 191-214, is thus described by its author, who seems to have -been something of a wag: "The sketch, Pike of Pike's Peak, was first -delivered at Topeka, February 19th, 1877, under the patronage of the -Kansas State Historical Society. Afterward, in the cheerful month of -March, the author went around the country with his production in the -form of a 'lecture.' It was not as funny as was expected, and, as a -lecture, was not an overwhelming success. It now appears for the first -time in print; and may it find more readers than it ever did hearers." -In this wish I concur with pleasure; for Mr. Prentis evidently had -read his Pike with interested attention, and his essay is one of the -best short biographies of our hero that I have seen. I have occasion -to cite it twice in the present memoir. - -In his Explorers and Travellers, forming a volume of the Men of -Achievement series, New York, Charles Scribner's Sons, 1893, Art. VI., -pp. 163-193, General A. W. Greely, Chief Signal Officer, U. S. A., who -himself illuminates achievement in exploration, has given an -appreciative sketch of Pike's career, in the main correct, though -inaccurate in certain particulars. If I here specify two of these, it -is in no spirit of detraction, but with the good feeling that General -Greely reciprocated when I called his attention to them. It is said, -p. 173, that "Pike visited Red Lake and passed to the north, which -carried him to the drainage-basin of the Red River"; but Pike was -never out of the Mississippian watershed on that voyage, his furthest -point being Cass lake. This was formerly known as Red Cedar lake, -whence perhaps General Greely's misapprehension. Again, it is said, p. -183, that Pike "doubtless crossed into Middle Park [in Colorado] and -saw the head-waters of the Colorado"; but Pike went directly from -South Park back into the valley of the Arkansaw, and never viewed a -Pacific watershed. The general's summary, p. 175, of Pike's results on -the Mississippi is judicious--a conservative estimate, colored with a -generosity which none would wish to have been withheld: - - Pike had more than carried out his orders to explore the - sources of the great river, and did something more than - give to the world the first definite and detailed - information as to the upper river and its tributaries. He - discovered the extent and importance of the British trade - in that country, brought the foreign traders under the - license and customs regulations of the United States, and - broke up for all time their political influence over the - Indians. He did much to restrain the unlawful sale of - liquor to Indians by domestic traders, and not only - inspired the Indians with respect for Americans, but also - induced them to at least a temporary peace between - themselves. He replaced a foreign flag by the ensign of his - own country, and for the first time brought into this great - territory the semblance of national authority and - government. - -Hon. Alva Adams of Pueblo, Col., delivered an address before the -students and faculty of Colorado College, Colorado Springs, July 12th, -1894, which was published under the title: The Louisiana Purchase and -its first Explorer, Zebulon Montgomery Pike, 8vo, pp. 23. This is a -spirited oration, befitting the occasion and inspiring to read. It is -true that Pike's book appeared in 1810, thus anticipating by four -years the publication of Lewis and Clark; but can Governor Adams have -forgotten who first explored the Louisiana Purchase, and returned from -their expedition to the Pacific at noon of Sept. 23d, 1806? At that -date Pike was at the Pawnee village on the Republican river; and on -the 4th of October he had the news of Lewis and Clark's return to St. -Louis. His western expedition had been in progress only since July -15th, 1806. If Governor Adams had Pike's Mississippi voyage in mind, -that does not alter the case. Lewis and Clark started up the Missouri -May 24th, 1804; and when Pike began to navigate the Mississippi, Aug. -9th, 1805, Lewis and Clark were on Jefferson river, in Montana. -Furthermore, Pike was preceded in exploring Louisiana, from Missourian -waters to those of the Rio Grande, by James Pursley, who had himself -been preceded by Jean Baptiste Lalande, as we are duly informed by -Pike himself; and it is probable that French traders reached Santa Fe -by the same way half a century before Pike. - -The Annals of Iowa, 3d series, Vol. I. No. 7, Oct., 1894, pp. 531-36, -contains an article entitled: Pike's Explorations. This is anonymous, -but was written by my much esteemed friend, Hon. Charles Aldrich, -editor of the Annals and curator of the Iowa State Historical -Department at Des Moines. The article is clear and concise; and it -traces Pike's several journeys with absolute accuracy. - - * * * * * - -We return from this bibliographical excursus to resume the thread of -Pike's biography--would that there had been many more years to -chronicle in the gallant and patriotic, but all too brief, life of the -young soldier! No longer lieutenant, but captain, since Aug. 12th, -1806, Pike was delivered out of the hands of "our friends the enemy" -on the Sabine river, to which he had been escorted by his Spanish -captors, June 29th, 1807; and arrived at Natchitoches about 4 p. m., -July 1st. The following letter was received at the War Department -Sept. 29th, 1807; it is not included in the Appendix to Pt. 3 of the -book, and has probably never been published. I print verbatim from a -copy of the original now on file in the office of the secretary of -war: - - NATCHITOCHES 15 July. 1807. - - SIR - - I arrived here a few days since with part of my command - only, the ballance being yet in New Spain, but expect them - daily; as the Capt. General assured me they should follow - me in a short period; he detaining them I presume, to put - them through an _examination_, when he conceived they would - be more easily _intimidated_ into some equivocal - expressions; which might palliate the unjustifyable conduct - of the Spanish Government with respect to the expidition - which I had the honor to command. - - Whatever may be the sentiments of the Executive of the - United States as to the conduct of the Spaniards to - _myself_ and _command_, I am bound to submit. Yet I am - conscious that our Honor and Dignity, as a nation will not - permit us to tranquilly view, the violation of our - Territories; infringements of Treaties; Hostile - communications to our Savages; and oppression of our - Citizens; in various Instances: all of which I can make - manifest. - - The unreasionable Ideas of the Vice Roy, & His Excelly the - Capt. Genl. (the immediate representatives of his Catholic - Majesty on our Spanish Frontiers) as it respects the line - of Demarkation, is such that in my humble oppinion almost - precludes the possibility of a thought that they can ever - be amicably adjusted. - - On that subject I flatter myself I have acquired some - important and interesting information. - - Although the Capt. Genl. seized on (what he conceived all) - my papers, I yet possess by a little strategem, the whole - of my Journals; courses; and distances; and many other - Geographical; Historical; and Philosophical notes; which I - presume will be worthy of particular notice. - - I conceive by a fortuitous event, that information has been - acquired of the Spanish Kingdom of New Spain, which a - foreigner never yet possessed; and which in case of a - rupture between the United States, and that Govt, will be - of the highest importance: but should peace still continue - to bless those happy climes, will afford pleaseing subjects - of contemplation, for the statesmen, the philosopher; and - the Soldier. - - I received from Genl. Wilkinson, some Conditional Orders on - my Arrival at the place [this place--Natchitoches]; to - which I have replied; but as the destination of that - Gentleman, was uncertain, I thought it my duty to make a - short report to you: I shall remain here waiting for my men - a short time longer (as I expect some important information - by their hands) when I shall march by the way of Kentucky, - for the City of Washington. My papers being in such a - mutilated and deranged state it will require some time to - arrange them & (to which object every moment shall be - devoted) likewise at Washington: I can obtain some - necessary assistance as it would take one person a great - length of time to make fair copies, and draughts of the - plans, Journals &c &c of a tour of upwards of 4000 Miles-- - - The Surveys of Capns Lewis & Clark; mine of the - Mississippi; Osage; upper Arkensaw; L'Platte; and Kans - rivers; with Lieut Wilkinson's, & Mr. Freemans, of the - lower parts, of the Red, and Arkensaw rivers; together with - the notes I intend takeing on my route from hence up the - Mississippi; will I presume form a mass of matter; which - will leave but _three_, more objects, to be desired in - forming a compleate chart of Louisiana. - - I am Sir with High Consideration - - Your obl. Sert. - [Signed] Z. M. PIKE, Capt. - - The Honl. - HENRY DEARBORNE - Sect. W. Dept. - -While at Natchitoches, Captain Pike made it one of his first concerns -to move in the matter of Captain Nolan's men, then prisoners in -Mexico: see beyond, pp. 609, 657, 660, 666, 767, 811. The case is -little known, and has not proved an easy one to recover. But through -the kind attentions of the eminent historian, Reuben T. Durrett, LL. -D., president of the Filson Club of Louisville, Ky., I am put in -possession of an article which appeared in the Natchez Herald of Aug. -18th, 1807, setting forth the facts in full. This I have the pleasure -of presenting, literally according to the type-written copy which Dr. -Durrett transmits, Apr. 12th, 1895: - - NACHITOCHES, July 22, 1807. - - DEAR SIR--Inclosed you have a statement of the situation of - the companions of the deceased Philip Nolan, and a short - account of the ineffectual application I made, to rescue - them from the eternal slavery, which it is to be feared, is - destined for them, unless our government should be pleased - to interfere in their behalf. Certainly the court of Spain - would be too generous to refuse liberty to a few - debilitated and half-lost wretches, who have at least - expiated their crime, (if any) tenfold. - - As I promised on my arrival in the United States, to give - their friends an account of their situation, I could - conceive no more certain and expeditious a method than - through the medium of your Herald, and therefore wish you - to give this communication publicity; and hope the Editors - of the Gazettes of the states in which the friends of those - unfortunate young men may belong, will republish it, that - their connections may receive the melancholy assurances of - some being in existence, and that others are beyond the - power of tyranny and oppression. - - I am, &c., - [Signed] Z. M. PIKE. - - In a late involuntary tour which I made through part of his - Catholic majesty's dominions of New Spain, whilst at St. - Affe [Santa Fe], the capitol of N. Mexico and Chihuahua, I - met with a number of the poor unfortunate companions of the - deceased Nolan. One of whom gave me the following cursory - statement of their treatment, &c. since their being taken, - and on their joint application, I addressed a letter to his - excellency Nemeio [_sic_] Salcedo, in their favor, of which - an extract is subjoined, with the verbal reply of the - general. - - "We crossed the Mississippi on the 1st day of November, - 1800, at the Walnut hills [Nogales], and in January - following arrived at the river Brassus [Brazos], in the - provinces of Texus, and proceeded to build pens [for the - capture of mustangs]. In March, 1801, we began to run wild - horses, and having caught several hundreds of them we - selected the handsomest and let the ballance go. On the 22 - of March, we were attacked at break of day, by sixty - regular troops, and two hundred and forty militia and - Indians, with one field piece. Our commander, (Nolan) being - killed, we capitulated in the evening, on the assurance - that Nolan was killed, who only was to blame, we should be - conducted to Naggadoches [Nacogdoches], from whence there - was no doubt, we would have permission to return to our - country, as soon as the circumstances were stated to the - governor of St. Antonio. We remained there under promises - and daily expectations of being released until July, when - we were all put in heavy irons. - - "In August we were marched, in irons, to St. Antonio - [Texas]; and in December through the province of Coqquella - [Coahuila] and [New] Biscay, into the vice-royalty of - Mexico, to the city of St. Louis Potosi, where we remained - fourteen months, ironed, and in close confinement. In - February, 1803, we were dispatched to Chihuahua, where - after some time, our irons were struck off. From which to - the present time, we have experienced various treatment, - sometimes enjoying the liberty of the town, sometimes the - barracks, and for three months in irons and close - confinement. - - "David Fero, from near Albany, state of New York, has been - alternately in irons, the guard-house, limits of the fort - or procedie [presidio]--is now confined to the limits of a - fort called Cayome [_sic_], eight leagues distant from - Chihuahua--in bad health. [See beyond, pp. 660, 665, 811.] - - "Simon M'Coy, of the Oppelousas, or Natchez, a carpenter by - profession, has the liberty of the town of Chihuahua--in - good health. - - "Joseph Reed, state of Kentucky, in the province of Biscay, - but in what part and how situated unknown. - - "Solomon Cooley [Colly of pp. 609, 613, beyond], of the - state of Connecticut, a taylor by profession, carries on - his business in the town of St. Affee, which is his limits. - - "William Danton, of Natchez, residence and situation - unknown. - - "Charles King, of Natchez, works at the carpenter's trade, - is confined by night to the quartel at Chihuahua--in good - health. - - "Ephriam Blackburn, of Natchez, is in some of the procedios - of the province of Biscay--situation unknown. - - "Joel Pears, of North Carolina, deceased at Chihuahua. - - "John Waters, of Winchester, Virginia, a hatter, and - carries on his business at Chihuahua, has embraced the - Roman Catholic faith, after betraying a well concerted plan - of his companions to effect their escape, and in which it - is supposed they would have succeeded: his treachery caused - them a close confinement in irons, and in a loathsome - prison for three months--he is hated and despised, not only - by his own countrymen but by every honest Spaniard in the - place. - - "Ellis Bean, of Granger county, state of Tennessee, a - hatter, formerly carried on his business in the city of - Chihuahua, but being detected in an intrigue with the - daughter of an officer, and refusing to marry her, was in - close confinement at St. Jeronime [San Jeronimo], a few - leagues distant, in good health. - - "Thomas House, of Jefferson county, Tennessee, blacksmith, - confined to the quartel at night, but at that time was at - the hospital, in a very bad state of health. - - "Stephen Richards, of Natchez, has inlisted in the Spanish - service, was lately at Baton Rouge with his father, in the - quality of a citizen--belongs to the troops at Nagadoches." - - [Here follows the above-mentioned letter from Pike to his - Excellency, General Salcedo, given beyond, pp. 810-812.] - - This letter I presented personally, & after the general had - learned its contents, through an interpreter, he observed - in reply That having found those men, on his arrival from - Europe, to take the command of the internal provinces of - New Spain, in the dungeons of St. Louis Potosi, he had - demanded them of the Vice-Roy, and brought them to - Chihuahua, where their irons were struck off, and every - indulgence allowed them which his responsibility would - admit--that he had felt a particular desire to serve Fero, - but whose haughtiness of soul would not permit him to be - under any obligation to the government, further than his - allowance of twenty-five cents per day. That he had - reported their situation to the King, and consequently must - await the orders of his majesty; that with respect to the - letters, they had always been permitted to correspond - through him, with their friends--but that I might use my - own pleasure as to taking letters, but he thought the - peculiar delicacy of my own situation, should prevent me - from taking any written communication out of the country. - - Thus ended the conference, and thus stands the situation of - those unfortunate men at present. But as I knew some part - of the general's information to be incorrect, and - especially as it related to the freedom of communication - with their friends, I felt no such peculiar delicacy as to - prevent my bringing out letters--but brought every one - intrusted to my care. - - [Signed] Z. M. PIKE. - -The records I have examined do not show Captain Pike's movements for -the next few months. But imagination easily forges the missing links -of the return of an intrepid and successful explorer who had been a -captive in foreign lands, given up by his friends as lost to them -forever--a loved husband, whom _domus et placens uxor_ awaited--a -hero, whose story remained to be told to a public eager to hear of El -Dorado. He was in Washington soon--most likely before the end of the -year, certainly in Jan., 1808--and already in hot water. For he took -a header into the political caldron, which perpetually boils there, -but had been superheated for him in consequence of his supposed -confidential relations with his military commander-in-chief.[M-13] His -name came before Congress in a way which ruffled his plumes, and -extorted the following mettlesome effusion: - - WASHINGTON 22 Feby 08. - - SIR - - The Honorable John Rowan of the House of representatives - from Kentucky; has this day made some observations before - that Honarable body from which a tacit inference might be - drawn that my late Tour to the Westward was founded on - Views intirely unknown to the Government; and connected - with the nefarious plans of Aaron Burr and his associates. - Had those insinuations arisen in any other quarter I should - have concieved that my early choice of the military life, - the many ardious and confidential duties I have performed, - with the perfect knowledge which the Goverment must have of - my military and political Character; would have been a - sufficient justification for me to have passed over them in - silence: but comeing from so respectable a source. I feel - it a duty to myself; my family; and my profession; to - request of you a testimonial which may shut the mouth of - Calumny--and strike dumb the voice of slander. I have - therefore to request of you Sir! to Honor me with a - communication which may be calculated to present to the - Speaker of the House of representatives; or a Committee of - their Body, who have been appointed to inquire whether any, - or what, extra Compensation should be made me & my - Companions; for our late Voyages of Discovery, and - exploration; and that I may have permission to give - publicity to this letter which I have the Honor to address - you, and your answer. - - I am Sir with High Consideration - Your ob^t. Ser^t. - [Signed] Z. M. PIKE Cap^t 1^st. - UStates Reg^t. Infy - - The Hon. - HENRY DEARBORNE - Sec. War. Dep^t. - -On the same sheet of paper which has this letter, General Dearborn -drafted a reply, with many interlineations and erasures, to be copied -in a fair clerk's hand and signed by himself. In its final form, as -received by Captain Pike, it was published, with other papers relating -to Congressional action, as a part of Document No. 6 of the App. to -Pt. 3 of the orig. ed. of this work: see p. 844. Its first form is as -follows: - - Feb: 24. 1808, WAR DEPT. - - SIR. In answer to your letter of the 22^d Inst. I with - pleasure observe that alth'o the two exploring expeditions - you have performed were not previously ordered by the - President of the U. S. there were frequent communications - on the subject of each, between Gen^l. Wilkinson & this - Department, of which the President of the U. S. was - aquainted from time to time, and it will be no more than - what justice requires to say, that your conduct in each of - those expeditions met the approbation of the President; and - that the information you obtained and communicated to the - Executive in relation to the sources of the Mississippi & - the natives in that quarter and the country generally as - well on the uper Mississippi as that between the Arkansas & - the Missouri, and on the borders of the latter extensive - river to its source, and the adjacent countries, has been - considered as highly interesting in a political, - geographical & historical view. And you may rest assured - that your services are held in high estimation by the - President of the U. S.; and if opinion of my own can afford - you any satisfaction I can very frankly declare that I - consider the public very much indebted to you for the - enterprising persevering and judicious manner in which you - have performed them. - - [No signature.] - -To the above Pike made reply at once: - - WASHINGTON CITY 26 Feby 08 - - SIR! - - Suffer me to offer through you, to the president of the - United States the effusions of a Heart impress'd with - Gratitude for the very honarable testimonial of his - approbation received by the Medium of Your Communication of - the 24 Inst. - - The Confidence of the Executive, and the respect of our - fellow Citizens, must be the grand desiderata of every man - of Honor, who wears a sword in the republican Armies of the - United States; to acquire which has been the undeviateing - pursuit of the earliest part of my life, & shall mark the - colour of my future actions. - - Suffer me to add Sir! that I feel myself deeply impressed - by the Sentiments of personal respect and consideration - with which you was pleased to Honor me--and shall always be - proud to be considered as one who holds for your person and - character Sentiments of the Sincerest Respect & Esteem - - I am Sir - Your ob Sert - [Signed] Z. M. PIKE Capt - - The Hon^l. - HEN. DEARBORNE - Sec War Dep^t. - -Meanwhile Captain Pike was panting for promotion--dear to every -soldiers heart, and in his case well deserved. His majority was in -sight but not in hand. There appears to have been a technical obstacle -in his way. We often smile at the witticism expressed in the phrase: -"the United States and New Jersey." Like most such things, it is not -new. Being a Jerseyman, Captain Pike was required to establish the -fact that he was not an alien to the United States--not for that -reason, perhaps--still he was required to produce certain evidence of -citizenship, as the following curious correspondence shows: - - NEW-JERSEY. TRENTON 23^d March 1808. - - It appears by the records of this State, that Cap^t. John - Pike, in the Year 1666, was one of the Original purchasers - of & Settlers in Woodbridge--a magistrate & member of - Council under the Proprietory government.--I have been well - acquainted with Major Zebulon Pike, from my Childhood and - with Capt. John Brown (Lieuten^t. of Cavalry in the - revolutionary War) also a Native of Woodbridge--and whose - daughter Cap^t. ZM. Pike married; so that Cap^t Pike has - good reason to claim New-Jersey, not only as his Native - State, but as the residence of his family for near a - Century & a half. - - [Signed] Joseph Bloomfield - -The above certificate of Governor Bloomfield was inclosed by Pike to -the War Department with the following letter: - - WASHINGTON CITY 4 Apl 1808 - - SIR! - - Having received the enclosed document from Gov^r. - Bloomfield on the 27^th Ult^o.--who has particularly - interested himself in my promotion in the profession my - inclination has induced me to persue; I should not have - conceived it necessary to have laid it before you had I not - understood that you expressed a doubt as to the place of my - nativity; and whether, the state of Jersey, was that of - which I had a right to claim a Citizenship. I had not - conceived that it would be requisite for a native of - America who had served his country in Arms for Years (And - his forefathers before him) to establish the Locality of - his birth right but the prevoy prevoyance of my respected - friend His Excells Gov^r. Bloomfield has laid it in my - power to satisfy Gen^l. Dearborne on that Subject--I hope - I shall be pardoned for thus intrudeing myself on the time - of the Sec^y of War, and beg leave to offer assurances of - High respect & Esteem---- - - [Signed] Z. M. PIKE - - The Hon^l. - HEN^RY DEARBORNE. - Sec^y War Dep^t. - -Having thus proven that he was a citizen of New Jersey and of the -United States, the captain could feel that the coveted majority was -his. His commission as major of the 6th Infantry, of date May 3d, -1808, was acknowledged by him in the following letter, which I have -also chosen as the one to be reproduced in facsimile for the present -work: - - [Illustration: Facsimile of Letter] - - - WASHINGTON 5 May. 1808 - - SIR - - I have the Honor to acknowledge the receiipt of yours, - notifying me of my appointment to a Majority in the 6th - Regt. of Infantry in the Service of the United States. You - will please Sir! to receive this as my acceptance of the - same, and believe me to be - - With High Consideration - Your Ob^t. Ser^t. - [Signed] Z. M. PIKE - - The Hon^l. - HENRY DEARBORNE - Sec. War Dep. - -Among other things which had engaged Major Pike's attention was of -course his book--that story of his adventures which he had fondly -dreamed would immortalize his name, and respecting which his dream was -realized. He had already made such progress in his literary work that -he entered into official correspondence with the Secretary of War on -that subject. For instance: - - WASHINGTON, 14^th, April 1808. - - SIR:-- - - [A two-page letter concluding thus:] - - I shall in a day or two address an unofficial letter to the - President, requesting the favour of his advice, on the - Subject of the publication of my Voyages, on which, he - having read them, in Manuscript, will be a Competent - Judge--In this I shall speak as having the permission of - your Department for the publication.-- - - I am Sir, - with great Consideration, - Your obt. servt. - [Signed] Z. M. PIKE Captain. - -The inside history of books which the world will not let die is always -interesting. Here is a letter which speaks for itself: - - PHILADELPHIA 27 May. 1808. - - D^r. SIR! - - I have entered into an agreement with the firm of Conrad, - Lucas & C^o of this place to print and publish my Tours, - for which I allow them 20 pr. Cent on all the sales, and - pay besides the expences of printing &c.--This, with bad - debts and other Casualties will leave to myself but an - extreame small profit but as a soldiers views are more - Generally directed to fame than interest I hope that one - object will at least be accomplished.--The Work will not - exceed four dollars pr. Copy but the exact price we cannot - yet ascertain but hope Gen^l. Dearborne will give it all - the patronage which he may deem it entitled to; and Signify - to Mess^rs. Conrad and Lucas the number of Copies you - will take on ^ac of your Department. I have taken the - Liberty of encloseing under cover to you a letter addressed - to Nau [the draughtsman] which the Secy can read, and if he - does not wish to retain that man, in the Service of the - Goverment at the present time he will be good enough to - have the letter presented to him, and should the Goverment - wish his services in the Autumn or after he has done my - business he can return to Washington: But if he cannot be - spared by the Depart^t. the letter can be distroyed look - out for another person-- - - I beg leave to remind the Secy of War of the applications - which have been made in favour of my friend Doc^r. - Robinson--and hope he may yet be brought in for a Company - Vice some one who did not accept. - - Will Gen^l. Dearborne accept of my sincere acknowledgements - for the many favours he has conferred on me and believe me - to be with sincere respect and Esteem. - - His ob^t Ser^t - [Signed] Z M PIKE - -The War Department proved to be a liberal subscriber; for General -Dearborn indorsed the above in his own handwriting, "We will take 50 -copies." - -Matters thus being satisfactorily arranged for the publication of his -book, Major Pike seems to have returned at once, or very soon, to -military duty in his new rank--unless he went to see his wife on leave -of absence. We find him at Belle Fontaine in August of this year, as -evidenced by a letter I will transcribe in part, epitomizing the rest: - - CAMP BELLE FONTAIN-- - 18 Aug^t. 1808. - - SIR! - - Co^l. Hunt[M-14] deceased last night at half past 12 O. C. - after an illness of some weeks--He has left a distressed - widow and nine children unprovided for, and unprotected. - [The letter recommends military appointments for Col. - Hunt's two sons, George and Thomas; states that the command - of the district has devolved on Capt. James House of the - artillery; that Capt. Clemson's company of the 1st Infantry - had marched 10 days before for Fire Prairie, 25 miles up - the Missouri, and Capt. Pinckney's company was to march in - about 10 days for the Des Moines r., which would leave only - one company of artillery at Belle Fontaine; wishes to know - when he shall have definite orders to join his battalion in - New Jersey; expects to be at Pittsburgh next October; and - continues:] which is my anxious wish as from appearances we - shall again have to meet the European Invaders of our - country and if I know myself, I feel anxious to have the - honor of being amongst the first to rencounter their - boasted phalanx's--and to evence to them that the sons are - able to sustain the Independence handed down to us by our - Fathers - - [Signed] Z. M. PIKE, Maj^r. - 6^th Reg^t Inf - -Before the year closed Major Pike had come East, and found his hands -full, no doubt, in presenting to Congress the claims of himself and -his men to the generous consideration of that body, in the little -matter of an appropriation for their benefit. Those who have ever had -occasion to cool their heels in the halls of greatness, till the -mercury of their hopes congealed in the bulbs of their thoroughly -refrigerated boots, will best appreciate Pike's plight. The novelist's -realism of little Miss Flite in Chancery is out-realized in the Bleak -House on Capitol Hill, which William McGarrahan haunted for a -lifetime, and from which his injured ghost may not yet be freed. The -following letter was written when Pike had not lost hope: - - CAPITOL HILL, 2 Decem^r. 08. - - SIR - - I am informed by M^r. Montgomery that some members of the - committee (on the resolutions moved in favour of my late - exploreing parties) wish to have our members officially - notified; and the time we were employed in each Expedition, - which information you requested from General - Wilkinson--Inclosed you have a return of the party on each - tour and the commencement & expiration, but as all the - intervening time between my return from the source of the - Mississippi to our departure to the West we were employed - in prepareing for the second tour; I submit to your - Judgment whether the whole should not be engrossed--Also - there being a number of men still in new Spain the time - will necessarily be extended to them. [This matter makes - chap. vi., pp. 840-855, beyond.] - - The Committee meet to-morrow morning will Gen^l. Dearborne - have the goodness to furnish them with the necessary - information by that time--I would have waited on you - personally but am this day to set on General Court Martial - which convenes at 9 OC. A. M. - - I am Sir with High Respect - & Esteem your ob. ser^t - [Signed] Z M PIKE Maj^r. - 6 Reg^t Infy - - The Hon^l. - HENRY DEARBORNE - Sec W. Dep^t. - -Nothing came of this move. Pike was less fortunate than Lewis and -Clark. The difference did not all depend upon merit; simply, he had no -political "pull." His expeditions originated with General Wilkinson; -they were military movements with which the President had nothing to -do. Jealousy is the most nearly universal of human weaknesses, in high -as well as low places; besides which, Thomas Jefferson had his own -opinion of James Wilkinson. Whatever Major Pike may have thought of -it, he certainly lost little time in dancing attendance on Congress; -he was not built for a lobbyist. In Dec., 1808, we find him on -military duty at Fort McHenry, Md., as appears from various official -letters of his before me, but which need not be transcribed, as they -represent merely the routine correspondence of an army officer. At -some period in 1809 he was transferred to the West; and he was on duty -as military agent in New Orleans from Sept. 13th, 1809, to Mar. 10th, -1810, or later, by virtue of the following order: - - CAMP TERRE AU BOEUF, - Sep^t. 13^th. 1809-- - - SIR - - The Situation of the public service and the impossibility - of finding a suitable Character in private life to - undertake the temporary duties of Military Agent, Obliges - me to impose that Office on you.... [instructions follow.] - - [Signed] J. WILKINSON - - Maj^r. Z. M. PIKE - -During his tour of duty in New Orleans Major Pike became -lieutenant-colonel of the 4th Infantry Dec. 31st, 1809. One of -Lieutenant-Colonel Pike's letters shows that he did not forget -"Baroney," his quondam companion in arms on the Arkansaw: - - NEW ORLEANS - March 4^th. 1810 - - SIR - - Ensign Vasquez of the 2^d Infantry who was late Interpreter - on the tour of Discovery to the source of the Arkansaw &^c - presented himself to me at this place. After being three - years in the United States service without receiving any - settlement I made a statement of his accounts and gave him - an advance in Cash and a draft for the balance, in order - that if the form of settlement did not meet your - approbation they might be corrected. He has been absent - going on four years, and begs permission to return to St - Louis to see his Aged parents, which I hope will be granted - him by the Hon^l. Secretary of War. The French language is - his proper one; but he speaks Spanish very well, and is - beginning with the English, but very imperfectly as yet. - Under those circumstances I should conceive his services - would be most important on the Spanish Frontiers. As he is - about to embark for the City of Washington, I shall furnish - him with a duplicate of this letter, and remain Sir, with - - the highest Respect & Esteem - Your Obdt. Servt. - Z. M. PIKE - - The Hon^l WILLIAM EUSTIS} - Secretary War Department} - -There is little to mark Lieutenant-Colonel Pike's career in 1810-11, -or until the breaking out of the war of 1812. From many letters I have -seen by which he can be traced in these years, uneventful for him, I -select one which shows the workings of his mind at this time, as well -as his readiness to ventilate the views which he entertained. -Characters such as his have visions which they may freely express -without carrying conviction to others. The following communication was -received at the War Department from Mississippi Territory: - - CANTONMENT, WASHINGTON June 10, 10 - - SIR - - Although, it may be deemed unmilitary in me (a Subordinate - in Command) to address myself immediately to the War - Department yet the purport of this Communication being - principally of a private nature, I presume it will not, be - deemed a great deviation from propriety.--I entered the - Army at the early age of fifteen, and have continued to - pursue my profession with enthusiasm to the present time a - period upwards of Sixteen years during which I have had - every practical experience which the times offered of - becoming a Soldier.--Together with a Careful perusal of - numerous Millitary authors in the French & English - languages.--But hapily for my Country her Councils have - been guided by Such Judicious Measures; That the - opportunity which I have so long panted for, of Calling - into Action, The Experience I possess, has never - Occured.--Knowing that it must be the interest of the U.S - to keep at peace with the world, and despairing of ever - being Call^d Into actual service I should some time since - have resign^d the sword and became a farmer, (The only - proffession I can acquire) only for the unsettled state of - our foreign affairs.--Fortune has at length placed me - (Through the instrumentality of General Hampton) at the - Head of the Compleatest body of Infantry in the US.--If - this Regiment should be Consolidated and the Co^l. not - join, I should be very happy to retain the Command and - remain in this quarter.--If not I would hope to be ordered - to join my Regiment in New England, a quarter of the Union - I should be gratify^d. in spending some time in.--Should I - remain here and be permitted to introduce the modern - Discipline--into the Corps I would pledge my existance it - would be equal to any in the U S. in one year. This is a - subject of much diversity of Oppinion, as many gentlemen - wish to Confine us to Stuben.[M-15]--The value of whose - system no man appreciates more justly than myself. But the - Battle of Jena but too fatally evinced to the Prusian - Monarch that the mordern improvements in the Art of War had - been such, as entirely to overturn the principles of - manourvres of the Malboroughs--Eugenes and Fredericks. The - Millitary Establishment of the United States can only be - viewed as the nuclues of an Army in Case of War, from - whence Could be drawn Staff Officers well versed in tactics - and police--In the foregoing observations I mean to cast no - reflections on my superior officers;--but Conceive at the - same time the Ideas may not be deemed obtrusive On the - Hon^l Secty of War.--Whilst makeing this unofficial - Communication I think it my duty to intimate the situation - in which the neighbouring province of Florida now stands. - The Goverment is in a Compleat state of Lethargie.--The - Citizens are forrming committees and appear to be disposed - to offer their allegiance to the U S. when if it should be - refused, they will Make it a tender to Great Britain this - would have been done some time since had they not feared - the Isle of Cuba.--That Cuba is competant to keep them in - Subjection by force is extremely doubtful; But what line of - Conduct the U. S will persue on the Occasion is an - important question.--our views should only be turned to the - effect our interferance would have abroad for we have - disposible force in this territory & Orleans when joined to - the Malcontents amply sufficient to secure possession of - the province; But with respect to the effect this would - have on Mexico is seriously to be taken into concideration - Mexico including all the possessions of Spain North of - Terra Firma [Tierra Firme], must constitute ere long a - great and independant power of at least seven millions of - souls, with more of the precious metals than any other - nation in the world will it not be an object of the first - Magnitude for the U S to secure the trade, friendship and - alliance of this people. They never will become a maratime - or manufactoring nation they are at present pastorial and - On trial will prove Warlike. I hesitate not to say they Can - pour forth thousans of Calvary surpass'd by none in the - World. To this power We might become the Carryers and - Manifactories, for which no Nation Could vie with us; which - would be sources of immence Wealth.--And an Augmentation of - our power.--To this very important object I humby Conceive - a too early attention Cannot be paid--On this subject I - have probaly intruded my oppinion on Mr. Eustis, but I - could not forbear giveing those intimations which I - conceived might be beneficial to my Country.--I had a - brother in the Millitary Academy from whom I have not heard - for some time should he merit the favour of his - Country;--or if his Fathers Thirty Years service or my own - claim some small indulgence for him, I hope he may be - appointed an Ensign of Infantry and sufferd to join the - Regiment to which I may be attached; the latter part of - this request is not made from a desire that I may have it - in my power to shew him any favour;--far from it,--but - that, I may have him near me to Restrain the Disposition - which all youths evince for irregularities. And point out - to him the paths of propriety and Honor, also that he may - benefit [by] the few years he can appropriate to study by - the use of a variety of Millitary Authors I have - collected.--Such are my reasons for wishing my brother with - me. I hope this may meet the approbation of the Hon^be - Secr^ty.--And this letter may be attributed to its true - motives, and that the Honble Secty may beleive me as I am - from Duty and inclination Sincerely devoted to my Country - and his obedt - - Hble Sert-- - [Signed] Z M PIKE - - The Hon^l. - WM. EUSTIS - Secy War Dep^t-- - -Lieutenant-Colonel Pike's "despair of ever being called into service" -was of short duration. He was soon to be called upon to lay down his -life for his country on the battlefield. From April 3d, 1812, to July -3d of that year he had been deputy quartermaster-general. He was -promoted to the colonelcy of the 15th Infantry July 6th, 1812. The war -was upon us. Colonel Pike's qualifications for the command of a -regiment may be best estimated in the terms of his military -biographer, General Whiting, who says, pp. 309-311: - - Probably no officer in the army, at that time, was held in - higher estimation. This was not because he had seen much - actual service, for he had hardly been in the presence of - the enemy before the day on which he fell. It was on the - promise, rather than the fulfilment, that the public mind - rested his character for boldness and enterprise; and his - fitness to direct and control men had been determined, to - an extent that warranted much confidence, by his - expeditions in the north-west and the south-west. He had - there given such proofs of those qualities, as established - a reputation in advance. He had exhibited, moreover, an - indefatigable activity in the drill of his regiment, - requiring of all under his command an unwearied devotion to - duty, and an exact and prompt obedience to orders. - - His regiment became an example of zeal, discipline, and - aptitude in movements; his men had an unbounded belief in - his capacity, and his officers looked up to him with - unusual respect and affection. He inspired that confidence - in all under his orders, which is almost a certain evidence - that it is merited. - - At the opening of the war of 1812, we were almost without - any fixed guides in tactics and discipline. The standard of - the latter part of the revolution, and of subsequent times, - "Old Steuben," which had been approved by Washington, and - had led to some of the best triumphs of the closing years - of that glorious period, had become obsolete, even before - any substitute was provided. Hence, when new regiments came - into service by scores in 1812, nothing was prescribed for - regulation or for drill. The old regiments had their forms - and customs, which preserved in them the aspect of - regulars. But even these presented no uniform example. Some - adopted the "nineteen manoeuvres" of the English; others, - the ninety-and-nine manoeuvres of the French; while a few - adhered to old Dundas; and fewer still to older Steuben. - - Nothing was laid down by the proper authority; therefore - all manner of things were taken up without any authority at - all. Amid this confusion, or wide latitude of choice, - General Pike, though brought up in the old school, was - often tempted, by his ambitious desire for improvement, to - run into novelties. With a prescribed rule, he would have - been the most steady and uncompromising observer of it. - But, in such a competition for beneficial change, he most - naturally believed himself as capable as others of changing - for the better. - - In this spirit of innovation, the 15th regiment underwent - many changes, and exhibited, even in times when novelties - and singularities were no rarities, perhaps the widest - departure from common standards of any regiment in service. - Adopting the French system of forming in three ranks, his - third rank was armed in a manner peculiar to itself, having - short guns, being the ordinary musket cut off some inches, - and long pikes. It was said, by the wags of the day, that - his own name suggested the manner, and the regiment was - often called "Pike's regiment of pikes." - -These pikes presented a formidable appearance on drill and dress -parade, when the men could display their tactics with the precision of -automata. They were even retained in the assault of Fort York. But at -the first engagement after the fall of General Pike, the men threw -them away, together with the cut-off pieces, and picked up English -muskets to fight with. The experiment of putting his regiment on -snow-shoes which Pike tried--doubtless remembering their -serviceability to himself and his company on the upper Mississippi in -the winter of 1805-6--does not seem to have proven any more lasting or -decided a success. - -Colonel Pike's sword was stronger than his pen, as we know; but he -could sharpen either weapon on occasion, as the following spirited -repulse of a newspaper attack on his regiment will show:[M-16] - - CAMP NEAR PLATTSBURG [N. Y.], _Oct. 12th, 1812_. - - SIR: - - However incompatible it may be with the character and - profession of a soldier, to enter into the party politics - of the day, yet when the honor of the government, the corps - he commands, and his personal fame are wantonly attacked, - and attempted to be sacrificed to satiate the malignant - venom of party purposes, it becomes his duty as a man, a - patriot, to come forward and boldly contradict the base - calumniator. The following piece "from the Connecticut - Herald" and republished in the New York Herald of October - 3d, is not only calculated to bring disrepute on the - government, but to hold up our army as a mob wanting in - discipline as well as in patriotism. The piece alluded to - is as follows, viz.: - - "The multiplied proof of folly, or of madness, or some - worse cause, that have driven the nation into a ruinous, - offensive war, are accumulating with every day's - experience. Barely to enumerate the evidence would occupy - columns. Two or three facts of recent occurrence, which - have come to my knowledge, are in point and worthy of - record. It is then a fact (for I state it on the best - authority) that either the national treasury is so - miserably empty, or the proper department so deficient in - duty, that the army under General Dearborn, which has so - long been idling away their time near Albany, was not only - unpaid, but unprovided with the common necessaries of a - camp; and when, a few days since, a part of these troops - were ordered to the frontiers, one whole regiment (Colonel - Pike's) absolutely refused, and deliberately stacked their - arms, declaring they would not move until paid. In this - refusal they were justified by their colonel, and an old - soldier, who admitted they ought not to march unless the - government would first pay the arrears due them. It - fortunately happened that Mr. Secretary Gallatin was then - at Albany, and on learning the state of affairs at the - encampment, he borrowed $20,000 from one of the banks on - his private credit, by which means the troops were paid, - and cheerfully followed their commander." - - In contradiction to this statement it will be sufficient to - give the following facts: - - [Firstly]--That the regimental paymaster had in his hands - funds to pay the whole regiment up to the 31st. And [that] - within three days of the period when the troops moved, - three companies were paid previous to the march and the - balance so soon as the troops halted a sufficient time to - give the officers an opportunity to adjust the rolls and - prepare the accounts of the recruits. - - Secondly--That those funds were received by the regimental - paymaster from the district paymaster, Mr. Eakins, who was - then at Albany, and not from Mr. Gallatin whom, it is - believed, did not arrive till after the regiment moved from - Greenbush. - - These facts can be corroborated by every officer of the - 15th Infantry, who one and all deem the paragraph published - in the Herald a base calumny, a direct attack on their - honor as soldiers, and declare that the author, whoever he - may be, has asserted gross untruths. As for myself, I have - had the honor to serve in the army from the rank of - volunteer to the station I now hold, during the - Administration of Gen. Washington, Mr. Adams, Mr. - Jefferson, and Mr. Madison, and can affirm that I have - known some troops under the three first to have been upward - of a year without a payment, and under the latter for eight - months. This was owing to the dispersed state of our troops - on the western frontiers. But never did I hear of a corps - shewing a disposition to refuse to do their duty, because - they had not received their pay; nor do I believe the - American army has been disgraced by an instance of the kind - since the Revolutionary War. But ask any man of - consideration, what time it requires to organize an army, - or a corps of new recruits--if, owing to the want of a - knowledge of the officers to forms of returns, accounts, - etc., it will not be some time before a new corps can be as - well equipt, or appear as much like soldiers, as an old - one? Every soldier will reply that it will require two - years at least to teach both officers and men to reap the - same benefit from the same supplies as old soldiers. And - although at this time the 15th regiment has been as - regularly supplied as any other corps with clothing, pay, - arms, and accoutrements, even to watch coats to protect the - centinel against the winter storms, yet were there an old - regiment laying by their side, who had received the same - supplies, they would most indubitably be better equipped - and make themselves more comfortable, having the saving of - two or more years' supplies on hand. But whether ill or - well supplied, the soldiers and officers have too just a - sense of the duty they owe their country and their own - honor, ever to refuse to march against the enemy. And the - colonel begs leave to assure the author of the above - paragraph, that he hopes he will forbear any future attempt - to injure his reputation by praising an action which, if - true, must have forever tarnished the small claim he now - has to a military character. - - [Signed] Z. M. PIKE, - _Colonel 15th U. S. Infantry_. - -Colonel Pike seldom had occasion to make proclamations of a -politico-military character. But one such which he issued while he was -in command of a district may be here cited. It is not dated, in the -printed form before me, but was no doubt given out in Jan., 1813, as -it appears in Niles' Register for the week ending Jan. 30th, III. No. -22, p. 344: - - _To all whom it may concern._ The state of hostility which - exists between the Kingdom of Great Britain and the United - States makes it necessary that the intercourse which may - take place between this country and the adjacent province - of Canada should be regulated on the principles which - govern belligerent nations. I have had it in charge from - the commanding general, Chandler [John Chandler, of New - Hampshire, d. 1841] that no person should be permitted to - pass in or out of Canada without his permission, or, in his - absence, the permission of the commandant of the district - of Champlain. This order has been communicated to the - commanding officer on the lines, and will be strenuously - enforced. - - Some members of the community have been found so void of - all sense of honor, love of country, or any other principle - which has governed the virtuous of all nations and ages, as - to hold correspondence with and give intelligence to our - enemies. It therefore becomes my duty to put the laws in - full force. The two following sections of the rules and - articles of war, which are equally binding on the citizen - and the soldier, are published for the information of the - public, that no one may plead ignorance, as from this time - henceforward they shall be enforced with the greatest - severity. - - "Art. 56. Whosoever shall relieve the enemy with money, - victuals, or ammunition, or shall knowingly harbor or - protect an enemy shall suffer DEATH, or such other - punishment as shall be ordered by the sentence of a - court-martial. - - "Art. 57. Whosoever shall be convicted of holding - correspondence with, or giving intelligence to, the enemy, - either directly or indirectly, shall suffer DEATH, or such - other punishment as shall be ordered by the sentence of a - court-martial." - - [Signed] _Z. M. Pike, Col. 15th Regt. Inf. - Commanding West Lake Champlain_. - -During the winter of 1812-13, when the 15th regiment was stationed on -the northern frontier, in view of the operations to be undertaken -against the posts of the enemy on the lakes, great confidence in this -well-disciplined and zealous body of troops was felt by General Henry -Dearborn, formerly secretary of war, and then the senior major-general -of the army, in immediate command. As we have just seen, General Pike -was in charge of a military district on Lake Champlain; his command -was then of about 2,500 men. Various desultory demonstrations against -the enemy had proved futile, in some cases fatuous and disgraceful. -The War Department determined upon a more consistent and apparently -feasible plan of concerted operations, which had in view the reduction -of all the British posts on the St. Lawrence river and Lake Ontario. -The capture of Kingston (site of old Fort Frontenac) was a measure of -first importance. The garrison was supposed to be small, and lulled in -a sense of security, owing to the rigors of the season and the -numerical insignificance of our troops at Sackett's Harbor; nor was -Kingston likely to be re-enforced from below, as the British forces -were menaced on the Lower St. Lawrence by Pike's troops on Lake -Champlain. It was proposed to transport these in sleighs to the foot -of Lake Ontario with such promptitude that the movement could not be -counteracted. General Dearborn also proposed to concentrate other -forces at Sackett's Harbor, to which place his headquarters at Albany -were to be moved at once. This was in Feb., 1813. But while these -measures were pending, Sir George Prevost, Governor-General of the -Canadas, prorogued the Parliament then in session, and moved to -Kingston with re-enforcements for that place. According to General -Dearborn's dispatches of Mar. 3d from Sackett's Harbor, this -demonstration seemed so alarming that operations against Kingston were -suspended in favor of others which had regard to the safety of -Sackett's Harbor; though it appears in General Armstrong's History of -the War that Sir George Prevost had executed a clever ruse with few -troops, and "countervailed his antagonist only by dexterous and -well-timed reports," Whiting's Pike, p. 290 _seq._ - -The proposed attack on Kingston over the ice having been abandoned, -the Secretary of War's alternative plan of reducing in succession the -several posts on and about Lake Ontario engaged General Dearborn's -attention. The Secretary indicated the order in which the successive -attacks were to be made, viz.: Kingston and York on Lake Ontario; -George and Erie on the Niagara river. But this sequence was not -strictly regarded by General Dearborn, who determined to attack -Kingston last instead of first; considering the rotation of the -assaults to be of minor consequence, in view of the main features of a -campaign which had for its object the reduction of all the posts named -in the order of the Secretary. The general commanding, on consultation -with Commodore Isaac Chauncey, concluded to make York the initial -point of attack; George to come next, and then Kingston. - - The prospect held out by this plan of the campaign was - certainly very promising. It had all such probabilities in - its favor as could be commanded by those who control only - one side of the current of events. The force that could and - would be brought to bear on each point of attack was ample, - and left as little to hazard as prudence would suggest. The - plan was founded on the best principles of strategy, and - highly creditable to the generalship which dictated it. Had - it been carried out with the spirit and perseverance with - which it was commenced, there was every reasonable prospect - of a successful issue. The causes of its failure were - obvious: delays, without proper objects, after the capture - of Fort George; and a change of command, wholly unnecessary - and inexpedient, which led to the waste of nearly an entire - season of inactivity (Whiting, p. 297). - -As noted by this military critic and historian, General Dearborn was -relieved from command early in July, 1813, his successor being -enjoined to rest on his arms, except in the event of certain -improbable contingencies which never arose, until the arrival of -General Wilkinson, who did not reach Fort George until September, or -resume operations until Oct. 1st; so that "nearly three months were -utterly wasted by a body of 4,000 troops." - -But I have digressed from the attack on Fort York, with which alone -are we here concerned. - -In the latter part of April, 1813, the navigation of Lake Ontario was -open, and no molestation was apprehended, as it was known that Sir -James Yeo's fleet was not operative. Agreeably with the plan of the -campaign above briefly noted, therefore, General Dearborn embarked on -board Commodore Chauncey's fleet, with about 1,700 troops, under the -immediate command of Brigadier-General Pike, Apr. 25th. On the morning -of the 27th the fleet reached York harbor, where it was intended to -debark for the assault on Fort York. This military post defended the -place which had been known as Toronto till 1793, and was then called -York till 1834, when it resumed its aboriginal name. - - * * * * * - -The true signification of the Iroquois word which has settled in the -form _Toronto_, after long fluctuation of all its vowels, is -uncertain, or at any rate, is still questioned. It is now most -frequently translated "trees in the water," or by some equivalent -phrase, with reference to the formerly wooded, long, low spit of land -which still encompasses the harbor of Ontario's metropolis. -Irrespective of its etymology, the various connotations of _Toronto_ -in successive historical periods are to be carefully discriminated. If -we turn to old maps, we see that the present Georgian bay of Lake -Huron was Toronto bay; the present Lake Simcoe was Toronto lake; -present Severn river and the Humber were each of them Toronto river. -In the seventeenth century, Toronto was the official designation of a -region between Lake Simcoe and the Georgian bay--the country of the -Hurons, on the large peninsula which intervenes between Lake Huron and -Lake Ontario. The comparatively narrow neck of this peninsula offered, -by means of Humber river and certain portages, a convenient way to -pass between these two great lakes--it was, in fact, an Indian -thoroughfare. The mouth of the Humber consequently became an Indian -rendezvous, and the name of the whole region thus became best known in -connection with the locality of the present city. As the southern -terminus of this highway, on Lake Ontario, offered an eligible site -for a trading-post, advantage was taken of such an opportunity to cut -off trade from Chouagen (Oswego) by planting the original -establishment of the Whites near the mouth of the Humber. Such was the -French Fort Rouille, built in 1749, and named in compliment to Antoine -Louis Rouille, Comte de Jouy, then colonial minister. This post was -destroyed in 1756, to prevent it from falling into the hands of the -English. It became better known as Fort Toronto than it had been by -its proper French name, and later on passed into history as Old Fort -Toronto, in distinction from the two other establishments to which the -name was successively bequeathed. Fort Rouille, by whatever name -called, was never lost sight of entirely. Lossing's Field Book of the -War of 1812, New York, 1868, p. 593, has a cut which shows its -appearance when it had been to some extent renovated in 1812-13. The -exact site is now marked by a monument, lying alongside which is an -inscribed stone. These memorials are pointed out to visitors, on the -lake shore, in the southwest corner of the present Exposition grounds, -on the western side of the city of Toronto. After the abandonment of -old Fort Rouille the region round about remained for nearly half a -century a wild whose solitude may have been only relieved by the -lodges of a few Misisagas--those Indians of Ojibwa affinities who had -become members of the Iroquois confederation in 1746, three years -before the fort was built. In 1791, Upper and Lower Canada were -instituted by parliamentary measures which Pitt guided to success; the -latter was practically the province of Quebec; the former became the -province of Ontario, the refuge and future home of the United Empire -Loyalists. For the capital of Ontario, a site was to be chosen in then -unbroken wilds. The first provincial Parliament of the new province of -Upper Canada was held in May, 1793, at Newark, the present town of -Niagara, where the river of that name enters Lake Ontario. But this -place was ineligible; the river became an international boundary; the -guns of the United States Fort Niagara could be trained upon Newark; -and in August of the same year the seat of government of the new -province was transferred to the new site which had been surveyed to -that end by Bouchette, and selected for the purpose by General and -Governor John Graves Simcoe (b. Feb. 25th, 1752, d. Oct. 6th, 1806). -To this place Simcoe gave the name of York, after the duke, second son -of George III. The evolution of this embryo of future greatness was -slow; for many years "Little York," or "Muddy York," as it was styled -by some in derision, had but a few hundred inhabitants; its -maintenance was mainly due to the United Loyalists already mentioned. -In April, 1813, the works by which York was defended, and which -General Pike carried by assault, were those called Fort York; later -they were known as Fort Toronto, or "the Fort at Toronto." The town -which Simcoe had christened York did not resume the original -designation of the locality till 1834, when it was incorporated as the -city of Toronto. - -This magnificent metropolis, which so admirably illustrates the effect -of American momentum upon English stability, is situated upon the -north side of Lake Ontario, 39 miles northeast of Hamilton (which -occupies the _fond du lac_) and 310 miles west-southwest of Montreal; -at the observatory the position is calculated to be in latitude 43 deg. -39' 35" N. and longitude 79 deg. 23' 39" W. of the Greenwich meridian. -The city extends westward from the vicinity of the Don in the -direction of the Humber, across the small stream known as Garrison -creek. It thus has several miles of lake front on the south, at the -bay or harbor of Toronto, partly shut off from the lake by low land -which was once a peninsula, and some small islands, with an entrance -only from the west; but the peninsula has been artificially cut off -from the mainland. At its end stood a blockhouse, in a position known -as Gibraltar point; another blockhouse stood at the mouth of the Don, -on the left or east bank of that river. One now drives a few blocks -from any hotel in the heart of the city to "old" Fort York, at present -dismantled, but very much in evidence still of the scene of General -Pike's victory and mortal hurt. The visitor will be warned off the -premises by the functionary who has these _disjecta membra_ in charge, -as Lossing had been before I was; but may nevertheless keep on the -main street or road through the frowning earthworks, and will -presently find himself on Garrison Common. This is the large level -piece of ground, the middle of the lake front of which is occupied by -the present barracks, or "new fort." At points included within the -present garrison and parade ground were the positions of two outer -defenses of old Fort York, respectively called at that time the -Western and the Half Moon battery; these were the first and second -obstacles for Pike to surmount in advancing upon the main defenses of -York. Crossing Garrison Common in a few minutes we enter the -Exposition grounds, at the further corner of which, to the left, and -directly upon the lake shore, stand the Rouille monument and inscribed -cairn already mentioned, together with a historical cabin; a pier juts -into the lake close by these objects. The direct distance between the -Rouille monument and old Fort York is about 6,000 feet--little over a -mile by the road; the present barracks are nearly midway between those -two places. Old Fort York occupies a position about the mouth of -Garrison creek, between Front Street and the water's edge, at the foot -of Tecumseh Street, and close to Queen's Wharf, in the midst of -railroad tracks, freight houses, and depots. The magazine, which was -exploded at the cost of many American and some British lives, stood in -a depression at or near the mouth of the creek, with its top nearly on -a level with higher ground on either hand; it is said that its -existence was not suspected by the enemy. It was a comparatively large -structure of its kind, solidly built of heavy stone masonry, and -contained a great quantity of powder, shot, and shell. All the -positions here in mention may be inspected in a leisurely drive of an -hour. Those who have not been over the ground, or have not a city map -at hand, will be helped to a clear understanding of the situation by -the diagram given in Lossing, p. 590; together with the sketches there -given of York, of Fort York, of the magazine which was blown up by -General Sheaffe's order, and of the Western battery whose explosion -was accidental. Of the latter, the picture represents the remains as -they were in 1860. - -The conflicting accounts of uninformed, unconsciously biased, or -willfully mendacious writers have shrouded in obscurity the clear and -intelligible relation which can be given of the battle of York. -Especially have the two explosions which occurred during the assault -been confounded and falsified in history. It is necessary, at the -outset, to dissociate in mind these two catastrophes, namely: (1) The -accidental explosion of a portable magazine at the Western battery -during the advance of the Americans upon the main works. (2) The -intentional explosion of the fixed magazine during the retreat of the -British from the main works. The latter was somewhat premature, owing -to overmuch zeal of the soldier who had been ordered to fire the -train; but it was premeditated. - -A diligent comparison of many different descriptions of the battle of -York has satisfied me that the account in Whiting, Pike's most formal -biographer, leaves much to be desired, and that Lossing's relation is -decidedly preferable in most particulars. The latter gives, on the -whole, the clearest and truest picture which any modern historian has -painted. Lossing consulted the official reports of the commanders, -both British and American; the accounts given by Thompson, Perkins, -James, Auchinleck, Armstrong, Christy, Ingersoll, and others; -Whiting's Biography of Pike; Hough's County histories; Roger's -Canadian History; Smith's Canada; Cooper's Naval History; Niles' -Register; the Portfolio; the Analectic Magazine; he had some -manuscripts of actors in the scene, besides various verbal relations; -and he went over the ground in person. In the following sketch I shall -lean more heavily upon Lossing than upon Whiting; but for numerous -particulars shall refer back of both to contemporaneous records and -official reports, on both sides. I shall also adduce a certain obscure -author, P. Finan, who is among those who witnessed the fight, and who -describes what he saw in his little-known Journal of a Voyage to -Quebec in the Year 1825, with Recollections of Canada during the late -American War in the Years 1812-13, Newry, printed by Alexander -Peacock, 1828. H. A. Fay's Collection of Official Documents, etc., 1 -vol., 8vo, New York, 1817, gives General Dearborn's and Commodore -Chauncey's reports to the Secretary of War and of the Navy, -respectively, and the terms of the capitulation after the capture. -Brannan's Official Letters, etc., 1 vol., 8vo, Washington, 1823, gives -in full Pike's vigorous and rigorous brigade order, pp. 144-146; the -reports said of Dearborn and of Chauncey; and various other items. -These and many other materials are also contained in earlier form in -Niles' Weekly Register, IV. Mar.-Sept., 1813. What here follows is -derived mainly from the sources I have thus indicated, but also -includes a certified copy of the most important one of the original -Sheaffe documents in the Archives of Ontario at Ottawa. - -General Pike's brigade order for the attack on York appears as follows -in Niles' Register, IV. pp. 229, 230: - - SACKETT'S HARBOR, April 25, 1813. - - BRIGADE ORDER. When the debarkation shall take place on the - enemy's shore, Major Forsyth's light troops, formed in four - platoons, shall be first landed. They will advance a small - distance from the shore, and form the chain to cover the - landing of the troops. They will not fire unless they - discover the approach of a body of the enemy, but will make - prisoners of every person who may be passing, and send them - to the general. They will be followed by the regimental - platoons of the first brigade, with two pieces of Brooks' - artillery, one on the right and one on the left flank, - covered by their musketry, and the small detachments of - riflemen of the 15th and 16th Infantry. Then will be landed - the three platoons of the reserve of the first brigade, - under Major Swan.[M-17] Then Major Eustis, with his train of - artillery, covered by his own musketry. Then Colonel - M'Clure's volunteers, in four platoons, followed by the - 21st regiment, in six platoons. When the troops shall move - in column, either to meet the enemy or take a position, it - will be in the following order, viz.: First, Forsyth's - riflemen, with proper front and flank guards; the regiments - of the first brigade, with their pieces; then three - platoons of reserve; Major Eustis' train of artillery; - volunteer corps; 21st regiment; each corps sending out - proper flank guards. When the enemy shall be discovered in - front, the riflemen will form the chain, and maintain their - ground until they have the signal (the preparative) or - receive orders to retire, at which they will retreat with - the greatest velocity, and form equally on the two flanks - of the regiments of the first brigade, and then renew their - fire. The three reserve platoons of this line under the - orders of Major Swan, 100 yards in the rear of the colors, - ready to support any part which may show an unsteady - countenance. Major Eustis and his train will form in the - rear of this reserve, ready to act where circumstances may - dictate. - - The second line will be composed of the 21st Infantry in - six platoons, flanked by Colonel M'Clure's volunteers, - equally divided as light troops. The whole under the orders - of Colonel Ripley.[M-18] - - It is expected that every corps will be mindful of the - honor of the American arms, and the disgraces which have - recently tarnished our arms; and endeavor, by a cool and - determined discharge of their duty, to support the one and - wipe off the other. The riflemen in front will maintain - their ground at all hazards, until ordered to retire, as - will every corps of the army. With an assurance of being - duly supported, should the commanding general find it - prudent to withdraw the front line, he will give orders to - retire by the heads of platoons, covered by the riflemen; - and the second line will advance by the heads of platoons, - pass the intervals, and form the line, call in the light - troops, and renew the action. But the general may find it - proper to bring up the second line on one or both flanks, - to charge in columns, or perform a variety of manoeuvres - which it would be impossible to foresee. But as a general - rule, whatever may be the directions of lines at the - commencement of the action, the corps will form as before - directed. If they then advance in line, it may be in - parallel eschelons of platoons, or otherwise, as the ground - or circumstances may dictate. - - No man will load until ordered, except the light troops in - front until within a short distance of the enemy, and then - charge bayonets; thus letting the enemy see that we can - meet them in their own weapons. Any man firing or quitting - his post without orders, must be put to instant death, as - an example may be necessary. Platoon officers will pay the - greatest attention to the coolness and aim of their men in - the fire; their regularity and dressing in the charge. - Courage and bravery in the field do not more distinguish - the soldier than humanity after victory; and whatever - examples the savage allies of our enemies may have given - us, the general confidently hopes that the blood of an - unresisting or yielding enemy will never stain the weapons - of the soldiers of his column. - - The unoffending citizens of Canada are many of them our own - countrymen, and the poor Canadians have been forced into - the war. Their property must therefore be held sacred, and - any soldier who shall so far neglect the honor of his - profession as to be guilty of plundering the inhabitants, - shall, if convicted, be punished with death. But the - commanding general assures the troops that, should they - capture a large quantity of public stores, he will use his - best endeavors to procure them a reward from his - government. - - This order shall be read at the head of each corps and - every field officer shall carry a copy, in order that he - may at any moment refer to it; and give explanations to his - subordinates. - - All those found in arms in the enemy's country, shall be - treated as enemies; but those who are peaceably following - the pursuits of their various avocations, friends--and - their property respected. - - By order of Brigadier-general Z. M. PIKE. - - CHARLES G. JONES,[M-19] - Assistant aid-de-camp. - -Of quite another character than the foregoing order is the next word -which reaches us from General Pike--probably from the last letter he -ever wrote. It is always the soldier, but now the son and not the -officer who speaks, in this letter addressed to his father. The -extract is undated and unsigned, but was penned at Brownsville, near -Sackett's Harbor, on the day before the expedition sailed from the -latter place. I cite from Niles' Register of Saturday, July 10th, -1813, p. 304, these affecting passages: - -"I embark to-morrow in the fleet at Sackett's Harbor, at the head of a -column of 1,500 choice troops, on a secret expedition. If success -attends my steps, honor and glory await my name--if defeat, still -shall it be said we died like brave men, and conferred honor, even in -death, on the AMERICAN NAME. - -"Should I be the happy mortal destined to turn the scale of war, will -you not rejoice, O my father? May Heaven be propitious, and smile on -the cause of my country. But if we are destined to fall, may my fall -be like Wolfe's--to sleep in the arms of victory." - -His aspiration was answered, for he turned the scale of war; his dream -of glory came true, for he fell asleep, like Wolfe, in the arms of -victory! - -Commodore Isaac Chauncey's fleet, which conveyed the American troops -from Sackett's Harbor to York, consisted of 14 vessels: the Madison, -flagship; Oneida, Fair American, Hamilton, Governor Tompkins, -Conquest, Asp, Pert, Julia, Growler, Ontario, Scourge, Lady of the -Lake, and the transport Raven. - -On that fateful 27th of April, 1813, about seven o'clock in the -morning, when this fleet had reached York, the intention was to land -the troops at old Fort Rouille, whence the advance to the assault of -Fort York would have been only about a mile, along the lake front, -over the level ground of present Garrison Common. But a strong east -wind drove the boats "a considerable distance" leeward, to some wooded -point in the direction of the Humber. Exactly how far this was does -not appear; but there is evidence that it was not more than some -fraction of a mile--probably not as far west of Fort Rouille as the -latter was west of Fort York. General Dearborn says, "about a mile and -a half" from Fort York, which would be about half a mile west of Fort -Rouille; and the place called Grenadier Point has been named in this -connection. Doubtless the whole of the troops were not landed at -precisely the same spot. General Dearborn remained with the fleet, -which was to bombard York after landing the troops under the command -of General Pike. The former's official report to Hon. John Armstrong, -Secretary of War, dated Headquarters, York, Upper Canada, Apr. 28th, -1813, includes this passage (Brannan, p. 149): - - I had been induced to confide the immediate command of the - troops in action to General Pike, from a conviction that he - fully expected it, and would be much mortified at being - deprived of the honor, which he highly appreciated. - -As rendered in Niles' Register, IV. p. 179, it is to the same effect, -but somewhat differently worded: - - To the general I had been induced to confide the immediate - attack, from a knowledge that it was his wish and that he - would have been mortified had it not been given to him. - -We will hear from Pike himself once more before he falls. It is before -any landing has been effected. Forsyth's boats are nearing the shore; -they are fired upon from the woods, but have not yet answered a shot. -Pike is standing on the deck of the flagship, surrounded by his staff, -straining his eager eyes impatiently at the boats, which he sees have -been driven beyond the intended point of debarkation. "'By God! I -can't stay here any longer!' and addressing himself to his -staff--'Come, jump into the boat!' which we immediately did, the -commodore having reserved a boat specially for him and his suite; the -little coxswain was ordered immediately to steer for the middle of the -fray, and the balls whistled gloriously around; probably their number -was owing to seeing so many officers in one boat; but we laughed at -their clumsy efforts as we pressed forward with well-pulled oars."[M-20] - -The first troops which effected a landing were Forsyth's[M-21] Rifles, -conveyed in two boats. Their debarkation was promptly resisted by a -choice body of light troops from Fort York, consisting of a company of -Glengary Fencibles, with some Indians, under Major Givens. From an -advantageous position in the woods which had been taken up, the enemy -opened a galling fire as our troops left the boats. Concerning this -opening engagement I cite Whiting, pp. 300-303: - - The riflemen were formed on the bank as promptly as - possible, when the boats returned to the fleet for other - troops. In the meantime, this gallant little band, assisted - by some few other troops that were thrown on shore in other - boats, sustained the brunt of the combat. The numbers in - this initial struggle were about equal, and it became a - fair and close fight, to be turned either way as - re-enforcements should happen to arrive. The British light - troops were choice men, and commanded by a brave officer. - - Forsyth's men were undisciplined, but had seen some - desultory service on the Ogdensburg frontier, and had - unbounded confidence in their leader, who was rather an - extraordinary man, and regarded as a most promising - partisan officer. He had peculiar notions as to the manner - of training men. The common rules of discipline were looked - upon by him with the utmost contempt. All he seemed to - require of those under him was, that they should be good - marksmen, and ready to follow him.... - - At the time of this expedition, Major Forsyth was a fat - man, probably weighing some 200 pounds. The uniform of his - men was green, and, at the time he landed, he wore a - broad-skirted coat of that color, which was unbuttoned and - thrown back, displaying a white vest spread over his ample - chest, that afforded a mark for an enemy equal to the - chalked circle of a common infantry target. He had on his - head a broad-brimmed black hat. Soon after the landing, the - armorer of his regiment, a favorite of both himself and his - men, was killed. The skill of this man was such as enabled - him to give the rifle its most deadly character; and the - efficiency of the regiment was consequently supposed, both - by officers and men, to depend much upon him. When he fell, - every man felt as if a deed had been perpetrated by the - enemy that demanded revenge; and the whole detachment, from - Major Forsyth down to the most indifferent marksman, - entered into the combat with a fierce spirit of retaliation - that, no doubt, contributed much to the obstinacy of the - stand they made, and the unusual loss sustained by the - enemy immediately opposed to them. - - Taking to the woods in which the British light troops were - posted, the riflemen, after their loose manner, placed - themselves behind trees, and thus carried on the contest - with their more concentrated, better ordered, and, - therefore, more exposed opponents. It is said that Major - Forsyth continued, throughout the action, to move to and - fro, armed only with a light sword, immediately in the rear - of his men, pointing out with an earnest solemnity that - partook both of sorrow and anger, to one rifleman and - another, some one of the enemy, and exclaiming that he was - the man who had killed the favorite armorer. This - suggestion was almost sure to be fatal to the enemy thus - specially branded with the guilt of having taken off the - best man of the corps. The British light troops were nearly - all left on the ground they first occupied, being too - strong to retreat while the landing was only partially - made, and too much exposed to stand before such expertness - of aim, rendered so fierce and unyielding by one of the - chance shots of an opening fight. - -The force under Forsyth was soon supported by Major King's[M-22] -battalion of the 15th Infantry, consisting of three companies--Captain -John Scott's, Captain White Youngs', and that of Captain John Lambert -Hoppock, who had been mortally wounded in the boats. When General Pike -had landed with the whole body of his troops, the attacking force was -represented by the 6th, 15th, 16th, and 21st Infantry, Colonel -Maclure's 3d regiment of New York Militia, and several pieces of -artillery. - -At the first sharp collision, as we have seen, the British were -defeated, not without much loss on both sides. On their retreat, the -bugles sounded the advance, and the troops pressed forward along the -lake shore toward Fort York, which was meanwhile bombarded from the -fleet. One of General Pike's staff says: "Our march was by the lake -road in sections, but the route was so much intersected by streams and -rivulets, the bridges over which had been destroyed by the enemy as -they retreated, that we were considerably retarded in our progress. We -collected logs, and by severe efforts at length contrived to pass over -one field piece and a howitzer, which were placed at the head of our -column, in charge of Captain Fanning[M-23] of the 3d Artillery; and thus -we proceeded through a spacious wood, as we emerged from which we were -saluted by a battery of 24-pounders. The general then ordered one of -his aids (Fraser) and a sergeant to proceed to the right of the -battery, in order to discover how many men were in the works. We did -so, and reported to him the number, and that they were spiking their -own guns. The general immediately ordered Captain Walworth of the 16th -[_sic_] with his company of grenadiers to make the assault. Walworth -gallantly ordered his men to trail arms and advance at the accelerated -pace; but at the moment when they were ordered to recover and charge -the enemy, the enemy broke in the utmost confusion, leaving several -men wounded on the ground which they abandoned." - -This first serious obstacle to Pike's advance was the Western battery -already described, p. lxvii, where the explosion occurred before -Captain Walworth[M-24] could carry out the order to charge this work. -This accident caused some loss of life to the defenders, but none to -the assaulters. Lossing has, concerning it: - - The wooden magazine of the battery, that had been - carelessly left open, blew up, killing some of the men, and - seriously damaging the defences. The dismayed enemy spiked - their cannon and fled to the next, or Half Moon battery. - Walworth pressed forward, when that, too, was abandoned, - and he found nothing within but spiked cannon. Sheaffe and - his little army, deserted by the Indians, fled to the - garrison near the governor's house, and there opened fire - upon the Americans. Pike ordered his troops to halt, and - lie flat upon the grass, while Major Eustis,[M-25] with his - artillery battery, moved to the front, and soon silenced - the great guns of the enemy. - -Finan is more circumstantial in describing the casualty which did so -much to decide the fate of the day: - - While this part of our force was contending with the enemy - in the woods, an unfortunate accident occurred in the - battery opposed to the fleet which proved a death blow to - the little hope that might have been entertained of a - successful issue to the proceedings of the day. A gun was - aimed at one of the vessels, and the officers, desirous of - seeing if the ball would take effect, ascended the bastion: - In the meantime the artilleryman, waiting for the word of - command to fire, held the match behind him, as is usual - under such circumstances; and the traveling magazine, a - large wooden chest, containing cartridges for the great - guns, being open just at his back, he unfortunately put - the match into it and the consequence, as may be supposed, - was dreadful indeed! Every man in the battery was blown - into the air, and the dissection of the greater part of - their bodies was inconceivably shocking! The officers were - thrown from the bastion by the shock, but escaped with a - few bruises; the cannons were dismounted, and consequently - the battery was rendered completely useless. - - I was standing at the gate of the garrison when the poor - soldiers who escaped the explosion with a little life - remaining, were brought in to the hospital, and a more - afflicting sight could scarcely be witnessed. Their faces - were completely black, resembling those of the blackest - Africans; their hair frizzled like theirs, and their - clothes scorched and emitting an effluvia so strong as to - be perceived long before they reached one. One man in - particular presented an awful spectacle: he was brought in - a wheelbarrow, and from his appearance I should be inclined - to suppose that almost every bone in his body was broken; - he was lying in a powerless heap, shaking about with every - motion of the barrow, from which his legs hung dangling - down, as if only connected with his body by the skin, while - his cries and groans were of the most heart-rending - description. - - Although Spartan valour was evinced by our little party, it - proved unavailing against the numbers that pressed them - upon all sides; and in consequence of the loss of the - battery, and the reduction that had been made in the number - of our troops, their ground was no longer tenable; but - after nobly and desperately withstanding their enemies for - several hours, a retreat towards the garrison became - inevitable, although every inch of the ground was - obstinately disputed. - -It is remarkable that Whiting's relation of the attack has nothing -about this marked affair; it is in fact impossible to follow the -course of events in his narrative, between the conclusion of the -opening engagement and the final explosion of the main magazine. -Lossing, having brought our troops to a halt, when they were lying -upon the grass, continues with the result of Major Eustis' operations: - - The firing from the garrison ceased and the Americans - expected every moment to see a white flag displayed from - the blockhouse in token of surrender. Lieut. Riddle[M-26] was - sent forward to reconnoitre. General Pike, who had just - assisted, with his own hands, in removing a wounded soldier - to a comfortable place, was sitting upon a stump conversing - with a huge British sergeant[M-27] who had been taken - prisoner, his staff standing around him. At that moment was - felt a sudden tremor of the ground, followed by a - tremendous explosion near the British garrison. The enemy, - despairing of holding the place, had blown up their powder - magazine, situated upon the edge of the water at the mouth - of a ravine, near where the buildings of the Great Western - Railway stand. The effect was terrible. Fragments of - timber, and huge stones of which the magazine walls were - built, were scattered in every direction over a space of - several hundred yards. When the smoke floated away, the - scene was appalling. Fifty-two Americans lay dead, and 180 - were wounded. So badly had the affair been managed that 40 - of the British also lost their lives by the explosion.[M-28] - -General Armstrong states, in his History of the War of 1812, that -General Sheaffe said this explosion was accidental, his own soldiers -having been involved in its effects. General Whiting repeats this. But -both Armstrong and Whiting are clearly in error. If General Sheaffe -ever said this, he said what he knew was untrue. His words--such as -they may have been--may have referred to the earlier explosion at the -Western battery and been mistaken to apply to the main explosion. We -have his own reiterated writings, that the magazine was exploded by -his order. One of these statements is made in a hurried letter, whose -almost illegible handwriting betrays the state of mind to which this -gentleman had been reduced. It was written while he was on his retreat -to Kingston, and is addressed to his superior officer, Sir George -Prevost. The published text before me reads in part as follows -(italics editorial): - - HALDIMAND, 30th April. - - MY DEAR SIR GEORGE,--I have the mortification of reporting - to you that York is in the possession of the enemy, it - having on the 27th inst. been attacked by a force too - powerful to resist with success. Sixteen vessels of various - descriptions full of men, including their new ship the - Madison, formed their flotilla. The Grenadiers of the - King's suffered first in the action with the enemy (in - which Captain W. Neale was killed), and afterwards - severely, in connection with other corps, by the accidental - explosion of a battery magazine, which at the same time - disabled the battery. _I caused our grand magazine to be - blown up...._ - - I am, my dear Sir George, your very faithfully devoted servant, - R. H. SHEAFFE. - -Another letter from General Sheaffe, dated Kingston, May 5th, when he -had become more composed in mind than he seems to have been during -his inglorious if not disgraceful flight, gives a more coherent -account and many further details. I cite it in full, from the original -MS. now in the Department of Archives at Ottawa, as kindly copied and -certified for me by Mr. L. P. Sylvain of the Library of Parliament: - - KINGSTON, 5^th May, 1813. - - SIR, - - I did myself the honour of writing to Your Excellency on my - route from York to communicate the mortifying intelligence - that the Enemy had obtained possession of that place on the - 27^th of April, and I shall now enter into a fuller - detail, than I was enabled to do at the date of that - letter. - - In the evening of the 26^th of April I received - information that many Vessels had been seen from the - Highlands to the Eastward of York, soon after daylight the - next morning the Enemy's Vessels were discovered lying to - not far from the shore of the peninsula in front of the - town; they soon afterwards, sixteen in number of various - descriptions, made sail with a fresh breeze from the [_p. - 2_] eastward, led by the Ship lately built at Sackett's - harbour, and anchored off the point where the french fort - [Rouille] formerly stood; many boats full of troops were - soon discovered assembling near the Commander's Ship, - apparently with an intention of effecting a landing on the - ground off which he was anchored: our troops were ordered - into the Ravine in the rear of the Government Garden and - fields; Major Givens and the Indians with him were sent - forward through the wood to oppose the landing of the - Enemy--the Company of Glengary Light Infantry was directed - to support them, and the Militia not having arrived at the - Ravine, The Grenadiers of the King's Regiment and the small - portion of the Royal Newfoundland Fencibles belonging to - the Garrison of York were moved on, led by L^t Colonel - Heathcote of that corps, commanding the Garrison; this - movement was directed to be made within the wood, [_p. 3_] - parallel to the Lake-side, and only so far from it, as not - to be discovered by the Enemy's Vessels, several of which - were not at a great distance from the shore: Captain - Eustace's company of the King's Regiment, and some Militia - that were quartered at the east end of the town, and had - been left there during the night, lest the Enemy might make - some attempt on that flank, were ordered, with the - exception of a small party of the Militia, to join these - troops--which was soon effected: while these operations - were going on Major General Shaw, Adjudant General of - Militia led a portion of the Militia on a road at the back - of the wood to watch our rear, and to act according to - circumstances; by some mistake he led the Glengary company - away from the direction assigned to it, to accompany this - detachment, so that it came late into action, instead of - being near the Indians at its commencement; the movement of - the other troops was retarded [_p. 4_] by the difficulty of - the wood, while the Enemy being aided by the wind, rapidly - gained the shore under cover of a fire from the commodore's - ship and other vessels, and landed in spite of a spirited - opposition from major Givens and his small band of Indians; - the Enemy was shortly afterwards encountered by our handful - of troops, Captain McNeal of the King's Regiment was early - killed while gallantly leading his Company which suffered - severely: the troops fell back. I succeeded in rallying - them several times, and a detachment of the King's with - some Militia, whom I had placed near the edge of the wood - to protect our left Flank repulsed a column of the Enemy - which was advancing along the bank at the Lake side: but - our troops could not maintain the contest against the - greatly superior and increasing numbers of the Enemy--they - retired under cover of our batteries, which were engaged - with some of their Vessels, that had begun to beat up - towards [_p. 5_] the harbour, when their troops landed, - occasionally firing, and had anchored at a short distance - to the westward of the line from the Barracks to Gibraltar - Point; from that situation they kept up a heavy fire on our - batteries, on the Block House and Barracks, and on the - communications between them, some of their Guns being - thirty two pounders; to return their fire, we had two - complete twelve pounders, and old condemned guns without - trunnions (---- eighteen ---- pounders) which, after being - proved had been stocked and mounted under the direction of - Lieut. Ingouville of the Royal Newfoundland Regiment, whom - I had appointed Assistant Engineer; a twelve pounder of the - same description was added during the Engagement; with - these defective means the Enemy was kept at bay for some - time, _when, by some unfortunate accident, the traveling - Magazine at the Western battery blew up and killed and - wounded a considerable number of men_ [italics editorial]; - many of them belonging to the [_p. 6_] Grenadier Company of - the King's Regiment, the battery was crippled, the platform - being torn up, and one of the eighteen pounders overturned: - the Magazine was replaced and the battery restored to some - order, but it was evident that our numbers and means of - defence were inadequate to the task of maintaining - possession of York against the vast superiority of force - brought against it, though providentially little mischief - had hitherto been done by the long continued cannonade of - the Enemy, except to some of the buildings: _the troops - were withdrawn towards the town, and the grand Magazine was - at the same time blown up_ [italics editorial], the Enemy - was so near to it, that he sustained great loss, and was, - for a time, driven back by the explosion; some of our own - troops were not beyond the reach of fragments of the - stone, though they escaped with very little injury; Captain - Loring, my aide-de-camp, received a severe contusion, and - [_p. 7_] the horse he rode was killed. - - The troops were halted at a ravine not far to the westward - of the ship yard, I there consulted with the Superior - Officers, and it being too apparent that a further - opposition would but render the result more disastrous, - some of the Enemy's vessels indicating an intention to move - up the harbour, in order to co-operate with their land - forces, I ordered the troops of the line to retreat on the - road to Kingston, which was effected without any annoyance - from the Enemy; when we had proceeded some miles we met the - Light Company of the King's Regiment on its march for Fort - George, I had sent an express the preceding evening to - hasten its movement, but it was at too great a distance to - be able to join us at York. - - The ship on the stocks and the naval stores were destroyed - to prevent the Enemy from getting possession of them. [_p. - 8_] An attempt to set fire to the Gloucester that was - fitting out for purposes of transport, proved abortive; she - was aground a mere hulk, her repairs not being half - finished: I have been informed that the enemy succeeded in - getting her off, and putting her into a state to be towed - away; a number of shipwrights having arrived from Sackett's - harbour with the expectation of employing them in a similar - task on our new ship. - - The accounts of the number of the Enemy landed vary from - eighteen hundred and ninety to three thousand [!], our - force consisted of a Bombardier and twelve Gunners of the - Royal Artillery to assist whom men were drawn from other - corps, two companies of the 8th or King's Regiment, one of - them, the Grenadiers, being on its route for Fort George, - about a company in number, of the Royal [_p. 9_] - Newfoundland regiment, and one of the Glengary Light - Infantry, and about three hundred Militia and Dock Yard - men; the quality of some of these troops was of so superior - a description, and their general disposition so good, that - under less unfavourable circumstances we might have - repulsed the Enemy in spite of his numbers, or have made - him pay dearly for success; as it was, according to the - reports that have reached me, his loss was much greater - than ours, a return of which I have the honour of - transmitting, except of that of the Militia, of which a - return has not yet been received; but I believe it to have - been inconsiderable: Donald McLean Esqr Clerk of the House - of Assembly gallantly volunteered his services with a - musket, and was killed. - - [_p. 10_] Captain Jarvis of the Incorporated Militia, a - meritorious Officer, who had a share in the successes at - Detroit and Queenston, had been sent with a party of - Militia in three batteaux for the Militia Clothing, which - had been left on the road from Kingston, he came to me - during the action to report his arrival, and soon - afterwards he was severely wounded: a few of the Indians - (Missasagus & Chipeways) were killed and wounded, among the - latter were two chiefs. - - Thinking it highly probable that the Enemy would pay an - early visit to York, I had remained there long beyond the - period I had originally assigned for my departure to fort - George, in order to expedite the preparations which the - means in my power enabled me to make for the defence of the - place; Your [_p. 11_] Excellency knows that I had intended - to place Colonel Myers, Acting Quarter Master General, in - the command there, at least for a time; I afterwards learnt - that Colonel Young was in movement towards me with the 8th - or King's Regt. I then decided to give him the Command to - avoid the inconvenience of seperating (_sic_) the head of a - department from me, and being informed that he was to move - up by himself as speedily as possible, I was for some time - in daily expectation of seeing him; at length, having - reason to believe that he was to accompany one of the - divisions of his Regiment, I wrote to him both by the land - and by the water route to come to me without delay; about - the 25th of April I received certain intelligence, of what - had been [_p. 12_] before rumoured, that he was detained at - Kingston by a severe illness, and on the 26th I learnt that - Colonel Myers was to leave Fort George that day for York, I - therefore determined to wait for his arrival, and to leave - him in the command until Colonel Young might be in a state - to relieve him; it was in the evening of the same day that - I heard of the approach of the Enemy: I have thought it - proper to enter into this explanation, as Your Excellency - may have expected that I had returned to Fort George before - the period at which the attack was made on York. I propose - remaining here until I shall have received Your - Excellency's Commands. - - I have the honour to be, - With great respect, - Your Excellency's - Most obedient - humble servant - [Signed] R. H. SHEAFFE. - M. Gen. Command. - - His Excellency - SIR. GEORGE PREVOST. Bt - et. et. et. - - Certified a true copy of the original letter in the - Department of Archives, Ottawa. - - [Signed] L. P. SYLVAIN, Assist. Libr., Nov. 2d, 1894. - -Here is the clear and intelligible testimony of the British commanding -general to the facts that there were two explosions, one of which was -accidental and destructive to his own men, the other designed and -executed by his own command. It is believed to have been a little -premature, in the confusion of an evacuation that was nothing short of -a rout, before the defenders were quite out of reach of its effects; -but that they suffered little from what wrought such havoc with the -Americans, is incontestable. The ethics of the catastrophe I leave to -be discussed by professional military critics; but it seems to me that -General Sheaffe was justified in inflicting the utmost possible injury -upon the enemy, and that he would have been chargeable with culpable -neglect of duty if he had allowed valuable munitions of war to fall -into their hands. - -Before resuming the main thread of this painful narration I will -introduce two accounts, both by eye-witnesses. - -One of these is contained in an extract of a letter from a field -officer in the force which landed at York, name not given, to the War -Department, as published in Niles' Register, IV. p. 193. It is -explicit regarding both explosions, though loose in statement of -numbers killed by each, and in some other respects: - - The column of attack consisted of the 6th, 15th, 16th, and - 21st regiments of infantry, and a detachment of the light - and heavy artillery. Major Forsyth's corps of riflemen, and - Lieut. Col. M'Clure's corps of volunteers acted on the - flanks. There was a long piece of woods to go through, - which offered many obstructions to our heavy ordnance. As - was expected, we were there annoyed on our flanks by a part - of the British and Indians, with a six-pounder and two - howitzers. One of the enemies batteries [the Western] - accidentally blew up, by which they lost 50 men of the 8th - regiment. A part of our force was detached from our column, - as it came into the open ground, who carried the second - battery by storm. The troops were halted a few minutes to - bring up the heavy artillery to play on the blockhouse. - General Sheaffe, despairing of holding the town, ordered - fire to be put to the magazine, in which there were 500 - barrels of powder, many cart loads of stone, and an immense - quantity of iron, shells and shot. The explosion was - tremendous. The column was raked from front to rear. - General Pike and his three aids, and 250 officers and men - were killed or wounded in the column. Notwithstanding this - calamity and the discomfiture that might be expected to - follow it, the troops gave three cheers, instantly formed - the column, and marched on toward the town. General - Sheaffe fled and left his papers and baggage behind - him.[M-29] - -Finan gives a vivid picture of what he saw of the catastrophe. It must -be taken with some allowance, perhaps, for the force of the impression -which the terrible scene made upon him at the moment, and the -subsequent insistence with which his memory dwelt upon such a -spectacle; but it can hardly be much overdrawn: - - The governor's house, with some smaller buildings, formed a - square, at the center battery, and under it the grand - magazine, containing a large quantity of powder, was - situated. As there were only two or three guns at this - battery, and it but a short distance from the garrison, the - troops did not remain in it, but retreated to the latter. - When the Americans commanded by one of their best generals, - Pike, reached this small battery, instead of pressing - forward, they halted, and the general sat down on one of - the guns; a fatal proceeding--for, in a few minutes, his - advance guard, consisting of about 300 men and himself, - were blown into the air by the explosion of the grand - magazine. - - Some time before this horrible circumstance took place, the - vessels had commenced firing upon the garrison, which - obliged the females, and children, &c. to leave it; we - therefore retired into the country, to the house of an - officer of the militia, where we remained a short time; but - feeling anxious to know the fate of the day, I left the - house without the knowledge of my mother, and was - proceeding toward the garrison when the explosion took - place. I heard the report, and felt a tremendous motion in - the earth, resembling the shock of an earthquake; and, - looking towards the spot, I saw an immense cloud ascend - into the air. I was not aware at the moment what it had - been occasioned by, but it had an awfully grand effect; at - first it was a great confused mass of smoke, timber, men, - earth, &c. but as it rose, in a most majestic manner, it - assumed the shape of a vast balloon. When the whole mass - had ascended to a considerable height, and the force by - which the timber, &c. were impelled upwards became spent, - the latter fell from the cloud and spread over the - surrounding plain. I stopped to observe the cloud, which - preserved its round shape while it remained within my view. - I then advanced towards the garrison, but had not proceeded - much farther until I discovered our little party collected - in a close body between the town and that place, which - latter they had been obliged to evacuate. - -It is said, "Death loves a shining mark." One of the missiles that -hurtled down on that devoted band sought out their heroic leader with -fatal effect. A piece of rock fell on General Pike's back, and "broke -in upon the very springs of life," to use Whiting's words. A sadly -realistic memento of the speedily fatal injury reaches us from one of -his aids, who was by his side and was himself gravely wounded. -Lieutenant Fraser says, in a private letter he wrote by Pike's special -injunction, which appeared in the Aurora, and afterward in Niles' -Register, IV. p. 225: "Without the honor of a personal acquaintance, I -address you at the particular order of the late General Pike. After he -had been mortally wounded, his words were exactly these: '... I am -mortally wounded--my ribs and back are stove in--write my friend D... -and tell him what you know of the battle--and to comfort my ....' Some -things else he said, on which I shall again write you; and many -things he said for your ear have escaped me through the severity of my -own bruises." - -The dying general was carried to a boat at the lake side and conveyed -to the Pert, whence he was taken aboard the flagship Madison. Some -recorded words of his last moments need not be scanned with critical -eye. When those who bore their fallen leader reached the boat the -huzza of the troops fell upon his ears. "What does it mean?" he feebly -asked. "Victory!" was the reply; "the Union Jack is coming down, -General--the Stars and Stripes are going up!" The dying hero's face -lighted up with a smile of ecstasy. His spirit lingered a few hours. -Before the end came, the British flag was brought to him. He made a -sign to place it under his head; and thus he expired.[M-30] - -Military history hardly furnishes a closer parallel than that between -the death of Pike before York and of Wolfe before Quebec. Each led to -the assault; each conquered; each fell in the arms of victory; each is -said to have pillowed his head on the stricken colors of the -defenders. On the other hand, no contrast could be more obtrusive than -that between the fall of Brock before Queenstown Heights and the -conduct of his successor, Sheaffe, at York. The latter fled on the -heels of disaster across the Don and on toward Kingston; even his -personal baggage and papers fell into the hands of his enemy; the very -terms of the surrender of York were agreed upon by others, in the -absence of its late defender. But it is needless to pursue this -subject. General Sheaffe has by none been more severely criticised -than by British writers. - -When General Pike fell, the command devolved by seniority upon -Colonel Pearce,[M-31] of the 16th Infantry, until General Dearborn -arrived upon the scene. Lieutenant Riddle's detachment was so near the -place of explosion that it escaped the deadly shower; but the -Americans scattered in dismay at the catastrophe. They were rallied by -Brigade-Major Hunt and Lieutenant-Colonel Mitchell of the 3d -Artillery. The column was formed again and led into the captured town -without further resistance. Colonel Pearce sent a flag, demanding -immediate and unconditional surrender--and surrender it was, with the -single stipulation that private property should be respected. As soon -as practicable General Dearborn left the fleet for York, where he was -in command before night fell. His first dispatch to the Secretary of -War appears as follows in the text of Fay's Collection, p. 81, and is -substantially the same in Niles' Register, IV. p. 178: - - HEADQUARTERS, YORK, CAPITAL OF U. C. - April 27, 1813--8 o'clock, P. M. - - SIR--We are in full possession of this place, after a sharp - conflict, in which we lost some brave officers and - soldiers. General Sheaffe commanded the British troops, - militia, and Indians, in person.--We shall be prepared to - sail for the next object of the expedition, the first - favourable wind. I have to lament the loss of the brave and - active Brig. Gen. Pike. - - I am, &c. - H. DEARBORN. - - Hon. J. ARMSTRONG. - -The official reports of General Dearborn and of Commodore Chauncey to -their respective Secretaries of War and of the Navy appear in full in -Niles' Register, IV. pp. 178-180; in Brannan's Official Letters, pp. -146-149, and in Fay's Collection of Official Documents, pp. 81-85. The -text of Dearborn's in Niles is in greater part as follows: - - HEADQUARTERS, YORK, CAPITAL OF UPPER CANADA, - April 28, 1813. - - SIR: - - After a detention of some days by adverse winds, we arrived - at this place yesterday morning, and at eight o'clock - commenced landing the troops, about three miles westward - from the town, and one mile and a half from the enemy's - works. The wind was high and in unfavorable direction for - the boats, which prevented the landing of the troops at a - clear field, the scite of the ancient French fort Toronto - [Rouille]. It prevented, also, many of the armed vessels - from taking positions which would have most effectually - covered our landing, but everything that could be done was - effected. - - The riflemen under Major Forsyth first landed, under a - heavy fire from the Indians and other troops. General - Sheaffe commanded in person. He had collected his whole - force in the woods near the point where the wind compelled - our troops to land. His force consisted of 700 regulars and - militia, and 100 Indians. Major Forsyth was supported as - promptly as possible; but the contest was sharp and severe - for nearly half an hour, and the enemy were repulsed by a - number far inferior to theirs. As soon as General Pike - landed with 700 or 800 men and the remainder of the troops - were pushing for the shore, the enemy retreated to their - works. Our troops were now formed on the ground originally - intended for their landing, advanced through a thick wood, - and after carrying one [the Western] battery by assault, - were moving in columns toward the main work; when within 60 - rods of this, a tremendous explosion took place from a - magazine previously prepared, which threw out such immense - quantities of stone as most seriously to injure our troops. - I have not yet been able to collect the returns of the - killed and wounded; but our loss will I fear exceed 100 - [see p. xci]; and among those I have to lament the loss of - that brave and excellent officer, Brigadier-General Pike, - who received a concussion from a large stone, which - terminated his valuable life within a few hours. His loss - will be severely felt. - - Previously to this explosion the enemy had retired into the - town, excepting a party of regulars, to the number of 40, - who did not escape the effects of the shock.... - - General Sheaffe moved off with the regular troops and left - the commanding officer of the militia to make the best - terms he could. In the mean time all further resistance on - the part of the enemy ceased, and the outlines of a - capitulation were agreed on.... - - I have the honor to be, Sir, &c., - [Signed] HENRY DEARBORN. - - HON. GEN. JOHN ARMSTRONG, - Secretary of War, Washington. - -The "Terms of capitulation entered into on the 27th of April, 1813, -for the surrender of the town of York, in Upper Canada, to the Army -and Navy of the United States, under the command of Major-General -Dearborn and Commodore Chauncey," appear as follows, in Niles' -Register, IV. p. 180--omitting the clauses which relate to the -disposition of individuals as prisoners of war: - - That the troops, regular and militia, at this post, and the - naval officers and seamen, shall be surrendered prisoners - of war. The troops, regular and militia, to ground their - arms immediately, on parade, and the naval officers and - seaman to be immediately surrendered. - - That all public stores, naval and military, shall be - immediately given up to the commanding officers of the army - and navy of the United States. That all private property - shall be guaranteed to the citizens of the town of York. - - That all papers belonging to the civil officers shall be - retained by them. That such surgeons as may be procured to - attend the wounded of the British regulars and Canadian - militia shall not be considered prisoners of war. - -These articles bear the signatures of: Lieutenant-Colonel G. E. -Mitchell,[M-32] 3d U. S. Artillery; Major S. S. Conner,[M-33] aid-de-camp -to General Dearborn; Major William King, 15th U. S. Infantry; -Lieutenant Jesse D. Elliott, U. S. Navy; Lieutenant-Colonel W. -Chewitt, commanding 3d regiment of York Militia; Major W. Allen (or -Allan), of the same; and F. Gaurreau, "lieut. M. Dpt."--the last name -perhaps misprinted. - -General Pike's body was prepared at York and conveyed to Sackett's -Harbor for interment. It was first buried at Fort Tompkins, at a -little distance from the shiphouse, together with that of his -aid-de-camp, Captain Nicholson,[M-34] who had been mortally wounded by -his side. Among the defenses of Sackett's Harbor was one named Fort -Pike, which stood on Black River bay. A view of this work, as it was -in 1855, is given by Lossing. Madison Barracks was built close by Fort -Pike, soon after the war, and in the burying-ground there were -deposited the remains of several officers, to whose memories a simple -wooden monument was erected in 1819. Lossing figures this, p. 617, as -it was when he examined it in July, 1855, "more leaning than the Pisa -tower." In 1860 it was rapidly crumbling into dust; the urn which had -surmounted it was gone, and the inscription was illegible. A part of -the legend on the west panel, copied by Lossing at his previous visit, -had been: "In memory of Brigadier General Z. M. Pike, killed at York, -U. C. 27th April, 1813." - -A tablet to the memory of General Pike has for many years been set in -St. Michael's church, at Trenton, N. J. For a description of this -object and a copy of the inscription I am indebted to the courteous -attentions of the rector, Rev. O. S. Bunting. It consists of a marble -slab, about 36 inches high by 20 inches wide, inserted in the outer -wall of the church on the east side, the base being about two feet -from the ground. On this slab is carved in relief an urn, which -occupies the whole surface, as nearly as the shape of an urn can fill -a rectangle; and on the urn is engraven the following inscription: - - Sacred - to the memory of - GEN. Z. M. PIKE, - of the U. S. Army, - who fell in defence - of his country - on the 27th April - A. D. 1813, - at York - Upper Canada. - -On the base is inscribed: "This small tribute of respect is erected by -his friend, Z. R." The stone is in a good state of preservation, and -its position affords considerable security. Mr. Bunting has no -particulars of the erection of the tablet, and does not identify -"Z. R." - -Upon the fall of York, the press of the whole country teemed with -jubilant notices of the auspicious event--the first signal success of -our arms after a period of defeat, doubt, and almost despair. The -death of Pike was on every tongue, in terms of affection for the man -and honor to his name, coupled with expressions of horror and -detestation of the manner in which he and so many of his companions -had met their fate. The feeling in the latter regard was spontaneous -and natural under the circumstances--it appears differently in the -cold gray light of history. Among uncounted tributes to Pike's memory, -a few may be selected for reproduction in the present biography. - -The editor of Niles' Register was in the habit of dedicating a -completed volume. The fourth volume, from Mar. to Sept., 1813, is -inscribed: "In Testimony of Respect to the Memory of ZEBULON -MONTGOMERY PIKE, Brigadier-General: who fell gloriously before York, -in Upper Canada. And JAMES LAWRENCE, Captain in the Navy: Killed on -board the Chesapeake frigate, fighting the Shannon. This volume of the -Weekly Register, is dedicated. The former happily expired on the -conquered flag of the foe, the latter died exclaiming, 'Don't give up -the ship.'" - -The same volume prints the following tribute in No. 14, for the week -ending June 5th, 1813, pp. 228, 229: - - It has been the lot of few men, unassisted by many - adventitious circumstances to acquire and possess that high - confidence and respect of all classes of his - fellow-citizens, the late General Pike so happily enjoyed. - Without the splendor of achievement that surrounds the - fortunate hero, and commands the applause of the populace, - the lamented man forced his way into the public affection - by the power of his virtues and strength of his talents - alone. Careless of popularity, a great and good name was - "buckled on him" by a discriminating people. He was an - _aegis_ of the army; and the soldiery looked upon him with - admiration and reverence; love, mixed with the fear of - offending his nice ideas of right, governing them all. He - was a severe disciplinarian; but had the felicity to make - his soldiers assured that his strictness had for its object - their glory--their ease--their preservation and safety. - With a mind conscious of its own rectitude, he was not - easily diverted from his purpose; and difficulty only - invigorated exertion. To all the sweetness of a familiar - friend, he added a strength of remark and pungency of - observation, that delighted all around him. Though the camp - was his delight, he was fitted for any company; and could - make himself agreeable on every proper occasion. His - courage was invincible, for it was the result of his - reason; and his death is a proof of it. The pride of his - countrymen in arms, the pattern for a military life, he - fell, at the moment of victory, on the first opportunity - that had been afforded to reduce to practice the perfection - of his theory--"but he fell like a man." His transcendent - qualities were opening to the view; but they were nipped in - the bud by the base stratagem of a beaten foe.[M-35] His name - is unperishable; and will descend to posterity with the - Warrens, Montgomerys and Woosters, of the other war. Though - dead, he shall yet speak to the army of the United States. - His scheme of tactics and practice of discipline shall be - the criterion of the soldier's worth. He has left behind - him many accomplished scholars, who, "while memory holds - her seat," shall teach his rules to others, and sacredly - preserve them as landmarks whereby to govern themselves. - The labors of the illustrious dead are not lost. His body - has descended to the tomb, and the gallant spirit taken its - flight to Him that gave it--but his virtues shall live, and - be with us, many generations. - -Mr. Niles' eulogy concludes with a dramatic incident which commends -itself for insertion here, in further illustration of the strong hold -General Pike acquired upon public sentiment: - - It may not be amiss, perhaps, to notice a humble mark of - respect offered by the managers of the Baltimore theatre, a - few evenings ago, to the memory of the general. The house - was crowded in consequence of several spectacles designed - in honor of the day (the review of the Baltimore brigade). - Between the second and third acts of the play the curtain - slowly, but unexpectedly, rose to solemn music, and - exhibited a lofty obelisk on which was inscribed "Z. M. - Pike, Brigadier General--Fell gloriously before York--March - [April] 27, 1813." On the left hand of the monument was - that elegant actress, Mrs. Green, in character as Columbia, - armed, kneeling on one knee, and pensively pointing with - her spear to the name of the hero. Her dress was uncommonly - splendid and very appropriate to the idea [she] designed to - sustain. On the other side was a lady, an elegant figure, - dressed in the deepest mourning, gracefully leaning against - the pedestal, immovably fixed, "in all the solemn majesty - of woe." The curtain being fairly raised, a death-like - silence for a considerable time reigned in the house, the - music excepted; which did not interrupt the pleasing - melancholy by any ill-timed boisterousness: but soon the - feelings of the people burst forth in one unanimous - expression of applause, such has been rarely witnessed, - certainly never surpassed in any country, on a similar - occasion. - -In the House of Representatives of the national Congress, on Tuesday, -July 27th, 1813, the following resolution was submitted by Mr. Nelson: - - _Resolved_, That a committee be appointed to examine and - report on the propriety of conferring public honors on the - memory of James Lawrence, late of the U. States frigate - Chesapeake, and of Zebulon M. Pike, late a - brigadier-general in the armies of the U. States, whose - distinguished deaths in the service of their country add - lustre to the character of the American nation; the - propriety of adopting, as the peculiar children of the - Republic, the sons of those distinguished heroes; and the - propriety of making provision for the support and comfort - of the families of these deceased officers. - -Among the many measures which were adopted to honor General Pike's -name and fame, there is perhaps none more marked than the action of -the officers of the regiment of which he was the colonel. We have a -glimpse of the hearts that still beat for him in the proceedings -recorded in the Register of May 14th, 1814, VI. p. 176: - - BURLINGTON, _April 29, 1814_. - - At a meeting of the Board of Honor of the 15th, or Pike's - regiment held on the 24th inst., it was resolved, that the - following articles of the constitution governing said Board - be carried into effect.--"Article 2d. Each succeeding 27th - April, the day on which the immortal Pike fell; the - standard will be dressed in mourning; each officer to wear - crape, and all unnecessary duties dispensed with during the - day, as a token of respect for our departed friend and - commander," and that captain Vandalsem, captain Barton, and - lieutenant Goodwin be a committee of arrangement for the - day.[M-36] - - Agreeably to the above resolution, the regiment formed at - eleven o'clock a. m. on the grand parade, and proceeded in - funeral order through town, to the court house square, and - from thence through Pearl street, to the cantonment, where - by the request of the commanding officer, lieutenant - Goodwin delivered the following pertinent address: - - Fellow soldiers--Thus far have we solemnized this day in - commemoration of the immortal father of our regiment, our - beloved Pike. When our political horizon was darkened by - the confusion that pervaded the whole world, he was among - the first that advanced to meet our barbarous and unjust - enemy. Stimulated by a love of country, and a thirst for - glory, he solicited with ardor, the honor of facing the - enemy's batteries on all occasions, he panted to invade in - the just cause of his country, and lived with the lively - hope of perpetuating our freedom and handing it down - unpolluted to future generations. - - As an officer, the remotest corners of our country are - filled with his fame. Let the learned record his deeds, and - let us improve the principles he has left imprinted in our - minds, and like him live but "for honor and happiness in - this life, and fame after death." Nor let us confound him - with the list of ordinary heroes. He will compare with - [Joseph] Warren and [Richard] Montgomery, for like them he - fell at the head of his column, bravely fighting in his - country's cause. - - With body shattered by an inhuman and unequalled explosion, - he smiled in death, while our flag waved triumphant in his - sight, and expired without regret, on a pillow purchased - with his life. - - May the omnipotent hand which directs all things, cause his - spirit to hover around our councils in the field, and at - all times be with his beloved regiment. - - After which the regiment fired three vollies and retired to - their quarters. - - WHITE YOUNGS,[M-37] capt 15th inf. - President of the Board, _pro tem._ - - DANL. E. BURCH,[M-38] lt. 15th inf. - Secretary of the Board, _pro tem._ - -Within some months, probably, of General Pike's death, a man-of-war -was named in his honor. The Register for Aug. 7th, 1813, p. 374, -describes it: "The _General Pike_ is a strong, stout, and well built -vessel. Length on deck 140 feet, beam 37 feet, burthen about 900 -tons--has 14 ports on a side, and carries on the main deck long -24's--has also long 24's on the forecastle and poop, (one each), -moving on a circle, and four guns on her top gallant forecastle; in -all 34 guns." General A. W. Greely, who interested himself to procure -the information, tells me that this frigate, a twin ship with the -_Madison_, was built in 63 days and launched on Lake Ontario, at -Sackett's Harbor, where she barely escaped destruction by fire, owing -to the mistaken zeal of an officer who applied the torch, supposing -the American victory to be a defeat; and that it does not appear that -the vessel was ever brought into action. - -I have already alluded to the Fort Pike on Lake Ontario. There was -another Fort Pike, the name of which still finds place in current -gazetteers. This was a military post on Petites Coquilles island, in -Orleans parish, Louisiana, 35 miles E. N. E. of New Orleans. While it -is not probable that all the counties, towns, etc., called "Pike" were -named for our hero, certainly most of them bear his own name, alone or -in combination or composition. There is a Pike county in Alabama, -Arkansas, Georgia, Illinois, Indiana, Kentucky, Mississippi, Missouri, -Ohio, and Pennsylvania. There are about 20 Pike townships in different -counties of Indiana, Kansas, Missouri, Ohio, and Pennsylvania. Pike is -the name of several small places in Illinois, New York, North -Carolina, and Ohio. Pike City is a village in Sierra Co., Cal. Pike -Creek is a township of Shannon Co., Mo., and another township, of -Morrison Co., Minn., besides designating the stream itself which flows -through the latter: see beyond, pp. 104, 123, 316. Pike Five Corners -is a hamlet of Wyoming Co., N. Y. Pikeland is a station on the -Pickering Valley R. R., in Chester Co., Pa. Pike Mills is a hamlet in -Pike township, Potter Co., Pa. Pike rapids are those in the -Mississippi, otherwise Knife rapids: see pp. 100, 104, 122. Pike's bay -is the gulf at the southern part of Cass lake: see pp. 157, 158, 324. -Pike's fork of the Arkansaw river, is present Grape creek: see pp. -463, 482. Pike's island, in the Mississippi at the mouth of the -Minnesota river, is historic: see pp. 76, 197, 239. Pike's mountain is -the range of bluffs opposite Prairie du Chien: see p. 37. Pike's Peak -is not only the famous mountain so called, but a hamlet in Brown Co., -Ind., a hamlet in Wayne Co., Mich., and a mining-camp in Deer Lodge -Co., Mont. Pike Station is a village in Wayne Co., O. Piketon is a -hamlet in Stoddard Co., Mo., and a village in Pike Co., O. Piketon or -Pikeville is the capital of Pike Co., Ky. Pikesville or Pikeville is a -village in Baltimore Co., Md.; a hamlet in Pike township, Berks Co., -Pa.; the capital of Marion Co., Ala.; a post-office of Pike Co., Ind.; -a hamlet in Pikeville township, Wayne Co., N. C.; a village in Darke -Co., O.; and the capital of Bledsoe Co., Tenn. Some of these places -are no doubt named for other persons of the same surname; some are -called for the pike, a fish, as is the case with several Pike rivers, -creeks, or ponds not included in the above list; and some may refer to -a turnpike road, or have yet another implication. - -To those of the foregoing geographical and political names which -commemorate our hero is to be added the designation of "Pikes" as an -epithet of the "Forty-niners" and later emigrants who navigated the -great plains with their "prairie schooners." Thus Mr. Prentis, in the -address already cited, says, pp. 193, 194: - - To these people thus described, and to all who bore to them - a family resemblance, and who in 1849 and in subsequent - years crossed the Plains to California, came to be applied, - by whom I know not, the general name of "Pikes." Various - explanations have been given of the origin of the name. The - most reasonable one is, that, there are in Missouri and - Illinois two large counties named Pike, and separated from - each other by the Mississippi river. In 1849 an immense - emigration set in from these counties to California. In - consequence, the traveler bound for the States, meeting - teams, and asking the usual question, "Where are you from?" - was answered frequently with, "Pike county" meaning in some - cases one Pike county, in some cases the other. This led to - the general impression that everybody on the road was from - Pike county, or that the inhabitants of Pike had all taken - the road. Hence the general name of "Pikes," as applied to - emigrants, especially to those traveling from Missouri, - and, generally, those migrating from southern Illinois and - southern Indiana. Thus the popular song--the only poetry I - ever heard of applied to this class of "movers," commences: - - "My name it is Joe Bowers, - I've got a brother Ike; - I'm bound for Californy, - And I'm all the way from Pike." - -Pike County, Ill., and Pike County, Mo., are certainly both named for -the general, and I have no doubt that Mr. Prentis' explanation of -"Pikes" is correct. With the above doggerel compare the slang phrase -noted beyond, p. 454, and duly legended as the head-line of p. 457. - -Another curious word, to which Pike has given rise indirectly, is -"Peaker," as a designation of persons who came to the vicinity of -Pike's Peak. Thus, we read in Colonel Meline's book, p. 89: "Most of -the people who have settled on these farms [between Colorado Springs -and Denver] were disappointed 'Peakers'--either those who had thrown -down the shovel to take up the plough, or those who, with exhausted -means, found a long mountain journey still before them after they had -reached the Peak." - -There is a sameness about the many published portraits of Pike which -shows that they were probably all taken from one original painting. -Lossing's cut looks a little different from the rest, as it faces the -other way, but it is the same picture reversed in copying, no doubt -with the camera lucida. There is no mistaking the extremely long, -large nose, above the full compressed lips, denoting the forceful -character which Pike displayed conspicuously throughout his career, -whether in leading a handful of men through an unbroken wilderness, or -in heading the columns which assaulted an intrenched foe. The same -uniform coat, with its epaulets, its high standing, embroidered -collar, unbuttoned across the breast and the flap turned down on one -side, appears in all these likenesses. Such are inserted in some of -the editions of Pike's work; one of the reproductions forms the -frontispiece of an early popular history of the war, and is called "a -striking likeness" on the title page. They are all doubtless traceable -to the painting which has long hung and still hangs in the historical -gallery of Independence Hall at Philadelphia, alongside the portraits -of Meriwether Lewis, William Clark, and many other noble men who loved -and lived for their country. The painting which hangs in one of the -rooms of the Minnesota Historical Society at St. Paul is believed to -be a copy of this, though it differs in the introduction of a spirit -hand, extended from an invisible arm, holding a wreath over the -head--an attempt at symbolism in which the unknown artist has not been -very successful. This portrait is dim and much cracked. I am informed -by Mr. William M. Maguire of Denver, that a prominent citizen of -Colorado has recently executed a bronze bust of Pike, to be placed in -Manitou. Facsimiles of Pike's signature are seldom seen in print; -Lossing gives one with the portrait on p. 586 of his Field Book. I am -not aware that any facsimile of a letter in Pike's handwriting has -hitherto been published. That one which is given in the present volume -was selected from among many I have examined in the archives of the -War Department, both for its intrinsic historical interest, and for -the unusually well-formed signature it bears--that of one who died, as -he had lived, for his country--of one whose fame that country will -never permit to perish. - -FOOTNOTES: - -[M-1] Henry Whiting of Massachusetts entered the army as a cornet of -Light Dragoons Oct. 29th, 1808; he became a second lieutenant Sept. -15th, 1809, and a first lieutenant Aug. 20th, 1811; was transferred to -the 5th Infantry May 17th, 1815; promoted to be captain Mar. 3d, 1817; -and transferred to the 1st Artillery June 1st, 1821. He became major -and quartermaster Feb. 23d, 1835; lieutenant-colonel and deputy -quartermaster-general, July 7th, 1838; colonel and assistant -quartermaster-general, Apr. 21st, 1846. He was repeatedly brevetted -for faithful and meritorious service, and on Feb. 23d, 1847, received -the brevet of brigadier-general for gallantry in the battle of Buena -Vista. General Whiting died Sept. 16th, 1851. - -[M-2] Access to these records was given in the following terms: - - WAR DEPARTMENT, - WASHINGTON, D. C., - January 29, 1894. - - SIR: - - As requested in your letter of the 22nd instant, I take - pleasure in advising you that you will be afforded an - opportunity at such time as you may call at the Department - to examine for historical purposes such records as are on - file covering the expedition of Z. M. Pike, a publication - of whose travels you state first appeared in 1810. - - Very respectfully, - [Signed] DANIEL S. LAMONT, - Secretary of War. - - DR. ELLIOTT COUES, - Smithsonian Institution, - Washington, D. C. - -[M-3] See beyond, p. lix, for a document bearing on the Pike family, in -connection with a letter of Zebulon M. Pike, both introduced in their -proper chronological order in this memoir. But I find no better place -than this for a letter from his father, which has never been published -before and will be read with interest: - - Indiana Territory - Dear born County - July 15^th 1807 - - Sir - - I have taken the liberty of making out my accounts of Pay - Forrage and Subsistance from the 1^t of January to the 31^t - ins^t and forwarded them to the Pay Master for payment - which I pray may meet your approbation - - Permit me to request the Honor of a few lines informing if - Z. M. Pike received orders for His Government on His late - exploring expedition, from The President, Yourself, or - Gen^l Wilkinson, and if any or how late the last - information or communications from Him. I need not mention - how disagreeable a state of Suspense is, nor, to move your - sympathy, to say more than that the anxiety and concern, - exhibited for His safety, by an affectionate Mother and - Wife, is Great. By way of consolation to the former, I have - thought proper to extend the probable Period of His return, - untill this month; Mrs Pike is now begining to lose - confidence in my opinion, consequently my consolating - influence is daily lesening, and Her afflictions - increasing---- - - I decline in Strength as regular as Time paseth and However - Painfull the reflection, It is by the Bounty of my Country - Life is rendered Tolerable - - Be assured I write in Pain as well that I am - - Your Very Obed^t. Serv^t. - Zeb^n Pike---- - - Henry Dear born - Secretary of War---- - -This letter is endorsed in General Dearborn's handwriting: "Tell him -his son is safe, and is probably at Natchitoches"--where Captain Pike -had in fact arrived July 1st, 1807. The Secretary of War at the same -time ordered attention to the matter of Major Pike's pay and -allowances, mentioned in the letter. - -[M-4] Historical Register of the United States Army, from its -Organization, September 29th, 1789, to September 29th, 1889. By F. B. -Heitman, Clerk, Adjutant General's office, War Department, Washington, -D. C., 1890, 1 vol., large 8vo, pp. 890. I make a point throughout -Pike of identifying as far as possible the officers whose names appear -in his text, giving in brief their official records, and doing the -same for those who are mentioned in my own writing. I am indebted to -Heitman's invaluable work for most such matter. - -[M-5] This officer was a native of Canada, appointed to the army from -New York. He had served as a captain in the Revolutionary Army when he -was commissioned as a major of Infantry Sept. 29th, 1789; he was -assigned to the 1st Infantry Mar. 3d, 1791, and arranged to the Second -sub-Legion Sept. 4th, 1792; he became lieutenant-colonel commandant of -the First sub-Legion Feb. 18th, 1793, and colonel of the 1st Infantry -Apr. 1st, 1802; his death occurred Apr. 11th, 1803. (Another John -Francis Hamtramck, of Indiana, was a sergeant in the 1st Infantry -before he became a cadet at West Point, where he was graduated in -1819, continued to be an officer of the army till 1848, and died in -1858.) - -[M-6] The time when these officers were together at Camp Alleghany must -have been prior to Aug. 19th, 1801, when Lieutenant-Colonel David -Strong died. He was from Connecticut; entered the army as a captain of -Infantry Sept. 29th, 1789; became major of the 2d Infantry Nov. 4th, -1791; was arranged to the Second sub-Legion Sept. 4th, 1792; promoted -to be lieutenant-colonel Feb. 19th, 1793, and held that rank in the 2d -Infantry from Nov. 1st, 1796.--Moses Porter, of Massachusetts, had -served in the Revolutionary Army when he became a lieutenant of -Artillery Sept. 29th, 1789; he was promoted to be captain Nov. 4th, -1791; major May 26th, 1800, and colonel Mar. 12th, 1812; brevetted -brigadier-general Sept. 10th, 1813, for distinguished services, and -died April 14th, 1822.--Edward D. Turner, of Massachusetts, entered -the army as an ensign of the 2d Infantry Mar. 4th, 1791; became a -lieutenant July 13th, 1792; captain, Nov. 11th, 1793, and was brigade -inspector from Nov. 1st, 1799, to April 1st, 1802; he resigned Nov. -30th, 1805.--Richard Humphrey Greaton (not "Graeton"), of -Massachusetts, was made a lieutenant in the 2d Infantry Mar. 4th, -1791; became captain Feb. 18th, 1793, and was honorably discharged -June 1, 1802.--Theodore Sedgwick, of Massachusetts, became an ensign -of the 2d Infantry Mar. 4th, 1791; lieutenant, July 30th, 1792; -captain, Dec. 29th, 1793, and was honorably discharged June 1st, -1802.--Peter Shoemaker, of Pennsylvania, appointed ensign in the 2d -Infantry Apr. 11th, 1793; became lieutenant Mar. 3d, 1793; captain, -Mar. 3d, 1799, and was honorably discharged June 1st, 1802.--Nanning -John Visscher, of New York, entered the army as an ensign in the 2d -Infantry Mar. 16th, 1792; became lieutenant May 1st, 1794, and captain -Nov. 1st, 1799; he was honorably discharged June 1st, 1802; was -afterward made a captain of Rifles Apr. 26th, 1809; resigned Nov. -30th, 1812, and died Dec. 12th, 1821.--Archibald Gray (not "Grey"), of -Virginia, was made an ensign of Infantry Mar. 7th, 1792; lieutenant, -May 1st, 1794; was assigned to the 2d Infantry Nov. 1st, 1796; became -captain Nov. 1st, 1799, and resigned July 1st, 1801.--Jesse Lukens, of -Pennsylvania, was appointed an ensign in the Second sub-Legion Feb. -23d, 1793; became lieutenant Oct. 1st, 1793; was assigned to the 2d -Infantry Nov. 1st, 1796; promoted to be captain Mar. 3d, 1799, and -died May 21st, 1801.--Ferdinand Leigh Claiborne, of Virginia, was made -an ensign of the First sub-Legion Feb. 23d, 1793; lieutenant, June -30th, 1794; assigned to the 1st Infantry Nov. 1st, 1796; promoted to -be captain Oct. 23d, 1799, and resigned Jan. 1st, 1802; he was -afterward a colonel and brigadier-general of Volunteers in the war of -1812-14, and died in February, 1815.--Benjamin Rand, of Massachusetts, -became ensign in the Second sub-Legion May 12th, 1794; was assigned to -the 2d Infantry as such Nov. 1, 1796; became lieutenant Mar. 10th, -1797, and resigned Dec. 29th, 1800.--John Whipple became an ensign in -the 2d Infantry July 10th, 1797; a lieutenant Mar. 2d, 1799; was -transferred to the 1st Infantry April 1st, 1802; made captain Apr. -11th, 1803, and resigned Jan. 31st, 1807.--Peter Shiras (not -"Schiras"), of Pennsylvania, was commissioned a second lieutenant of -the 2d Infantry Mar. 3d, 1799; promoted to be first lieutenant Nov. -22d, 1799, and honorably discharged June 1, 1802.--Moses Hook, of -Massachusetts, was commissioned as a second lieutenant of the 1st -Infantry Mar. 3d, 1799; became first lieutenant Oct. 23d, 1799; -captain, Mar. 13th, 1805, and resigned Jan. 20th, 1808. (Merriwether -Lewis intended to take this officer with him, in the event of William -Clark's declination of his invitation: on this point, see Lewis and -Clark, ed. 1893, pp. xxiv, lxx.)--John Wilson, of Pennsylvania, was a -second lieutenant of the 2d Infantry from Mar. 3d, 1799, to Nov. 22d, -1799, when he became first lieutenant; he was honorably discharged -June 1st, 1802.--James Dill, of Pennsylvania, was made a second -lieutenant of the 2d Infantry Mar. 3d, 1799; a first lieutenant Nov. -1st, 1799, honorably discharged June 15th, 1800.--The above named -Lieut. Williams is not fully identified.--Henry B. Brevoort, of New -York, was commissioned a second lieutenant of the 3d Infantry Feb. -16th, 1801, and retained as an ensign in the 2d Infantry May 7th, 1802 -(?); was second lieutenant of the same July 1st, 1802; first -lieutenant Nov. 30th, 1805; captain May 1st, 1811; major in the 45th -Infantry Apr. 15th, 1814, and honorably discharged June 15th, -1815.--Daniel Hughes, of Maryland, was made an ensign of the 9th -Infantry Jan. 8th, 1799; a second lieutenant Mar. 3d. 1799, and -honorably discharged June 15th, 1800; he was reappointed second -lieutenant of the 2d Infantry Feb. 16th, 1801, and transferred to the -1st Infantry Apr. 1st, 1802; became first lieutenant Mar. 23d, 1805; -captain, Dec. 15th, 1808; major of the 2d Infantry Feb. 21st, 1814 and -was honorably discharged June 15th, 1815.--The Lieutenant "Hilton" is -probably an error.--For James B. Many see note 38, p. 210.--Uriah -Blue, of Virginia, was commissioned as a second lieutenant of the 8th -Infantry July 12th, 1799, and honorably discharged June 15th, 1800; -reappointed as a second lieutenant in the 2d Infantry Feb. 16th, 1801, -and honorably discharged again June 1st, 1802; reappointed as first -lieutenant of the 7th Infantry May 3d, 1808; became captain May 9th, -1809; major of the 39th Infantry Mar. 13th, 1814; was honorably -discharged June 15th, 1815, and reinstated Dec. 2d, 1815, as a captain -in the 8th Infantry, to rank as such from May 9th, 1809, and with -brevet of major from Mar. 13th, 1814; he resigned Dec. 3d, 1816, and -died in May, 1836.--Edward Butler, of Pennsylvania, had been a captain -in the levies of 1791, when he was made a captain of Infantry Mar. -5th, 1792, and arranged to the Fourth sub-Legion Sept. 4th, 1892; -acted as adjutant and inspector from July 18th, 1793, to May 13th, -1794; was assigned to the 4th Infantry Nov. 1st, 1796, and transferred -to the 2d Infantry April 1st, 1802; died May 9th, 1803. (For Williams -and "Hilton" see these names in Index.) - -[M-7] John De Barth Walbach was a native of Germany, who was -commissioned from Pennsylvania as a lieutenant of Light Dragoons Jan. -8th, 1799, and honorably discharged June 15th, 1800. He re-entered the -service as a lieutenant of the 2d Artillerists and Engineers Feb. -16th, 1801, and was retained in the Artillerists April 1st, 1802; he -became captain Jan. 31st, 1806, and was transferred to the Corps of -Artillery May 12th, 1814. During the war he served in various -capacities, with ranks of major and colonel, and was among those -retained as captain of Artillery May 17th, 1815. He became major Apr. -25th, 1818, and was transferred to the 1st Artillery June 1st, 1821; -promoted to be lieutenant-colonel May 30th, 1832, and to be colonel of -the 4th Artillery March 19th, 1842. He was repeatedly brevetted for -gallant, meritorious, and faithful services; his latest brevet being -that of brigadier-general Nov. 11th, 1823. General Walbach died June -10th, 1857. An unpublished letter before me, from General Wilkinson to -the Secretary of War, dated St. Louis, Nov. 26th, 1805, refers to -Lieutenant Walbach in the following terms: "In every cavalry -arrangement I must beg leave to call Walbach to your recollection, as -the ablest horse officer in America, not only in the choice of -animals, but in equipping, training, forming, and heading them to -action." - -Alexander Macomb was commander-in-chief of the army from May 29th, -1828, to his death, June 25th, 1841. He was brevetted major-general -Sept. 11th, 1814, and received the thanks of Congress Nov. 3d, 1814, -for distinguished and gallant conduct at Plattsburgh, N. Y. General -Macomb entered the army as a cornet of Light Dragoons Jan. 10th, 1799; -attained the rank of brigadier-general in 1814, and major-general in -1828. - -Jonathan Williams, of Massachusetts, was appointed from Pennsylvania a -major of the 2d Artillerists and Engineers Feb. 16th, 1801; he served -as inspector of fortifications from Dec. 14th, 1801, to June 1st, -1802, and was retained as major of Engineers April 1st, 1802. He -resigned June 20th, 1803; was made lieutenant-colonel and chief -engineer Apr. 19th, 1805, and promoted to be colonel Feb. 23d, 1808. -He resigned again July 31st, 1812, and died May 20th, 1815. - -[M-8] Note by Lieutenant J. R. Williams, May 19th, 1894: "The foregoing -is a literal copy of the rough draft of John R. Williams' letter to -Major Holton. The fair copy of course is not in my possession, but I -have reason to believe the fair copy must contain several of the -peculiar errors of the writer, whose early education was wholly -French, so that he never, as far as I know, capitalized the initial -letters of such words as _English_ and _French_. John R. Williams, -writer of this letter, entered the 2d U. S. Infantry as a cadet early -in 1800, but appears to have resigned in about six months. He was -subsequently connected with the same regiment for about a year in the -capacity of agent of the contractor for commissary supplies. The title -of general, by which he is well remembered in Detroit, was acquired by -his connection with the militia of Michigan for about 40 years, as -adjutant-general and major-general." - -[M-9] This is a remarkable book, which has had a very exceptional -career, the end of which is not even yet. Robert Dodsley, b. 1703, d. -Sept. 23d, 1764, was in early life a menial in the service of Hon. -Mrs. Lowther, but became by his natural talents a wealthy publisher, -as well as a prolific author. In the latter capacity he was scarcely -rated as more than a hack writer in his lifetime, during which he was -probably never suspected of having written an immortal book. Whether -this was a stroke of his own genius or not is questionable; but he -should have the full credit of the book, until an extraneous source of -his inspiration can be instanced. The OEconomy of Human Life was -first published anonymously in a collection of miscellanies, in 1745, -and soon acquired great repute, in part at least due to the fact that -it was commonly attributed to Lord Chesterfield. It ran through many -editions in various styles, some of them finely illustrated. The -earlier ones all preserved the author's anonymity, and in more than -one reprint of very late years his incognito is formally preserved. An -anonymous edition of 1806, which I have handled, consists only of Book -I, Parts i-vii, entitled as follows: The | OEconomy | of | Human -Life, | translated from an | Indian Manuscript, | written by an -Ancient Bramin | -- | London: | printed for W. Gardiner, Pall-Mall; -and | Vernor, Hood, and Sharpe, Poultny. | 1 vol., 12mo, pp. i-x, 1 -leaf, pp. 1-116, and many engr. head- and tail-pieces. Another, of -1809, with the authorship avowed, is as follows: The | Economy | of | -Human Life. | In Two Books. | -- | By Robert Dodsley. | -- | With six -elegant engravings by Mackenzie, | from designs by Craig and Unwins. | --- | London: | [etc., 4 lines of printers' names] | -- | 1809. 1 vol., -16mo, 1 prel. leaf, vignette title, pp. i-xviii, 5-188; portrait and -memoir of Dodsley, and 5 full-page engravings; said to have been pub. -Jan. 31st, 1809. The copy Pike had was most probably one of the cheap -American reprints which appeared about this time. Dodsley's book -consists of philosophical and moral reflections or aphorisms in curt, -sententious style, of distinctly Oriental flavor; it is feigned to be -based upon manuscripts of immense antiquity, discovered in the capital -of Tibet by an emissary of the emperor of China, and in some occult -manner received in England and translated. I liked the thing so much -that I lately brought out a new edition myself, preserving the -author's feigned origin of the book and his own incognito, transposing -some of the pieces, adding a new "foreword" in antique style, and -modifying the title to--Kuthumi: The True and Complete Oeconomy of -Human Life, etc. In this guise Dodsley's book forms No. 5 of my Biogen -Series, Boston, Estes and Lauriat, 1886; 1 vol., small square 8vo, pp. -i-x, 1-123. - -[M-10] Another good editorial version of Pike's Mississippi itinerary -appeared in the tract entitled: Materials for the Future History of -Minnesota, etc., the same being Part V. of the publications of the -Minn. Hist. Soc., 8vo, St. Paul, 1856, pp. about 142. The five -separately issued Parts, dating 1850-56, were in 1872 collectively -republished in a second edition, forming Vol. I. of the Collections of -the Minn. Hist. Soc., 8vo, pp. 1-519. In this reprint the article is -entitled: Pike's Explorations in Minnesota, 1805-06, and occupies pp. -368-416, or 48 pages, being thus about as extensive as the text of -1807. The editor says that his aim was "to make judicious extracts" -from Pike's journal; and he certainly succeeded in this intention. The -editor's name does not appear; but as the footnotes which explain or -amplify various points in the text are signed "W.," an initial of Mr. -J. Fletcher Williams, who was secretary of the society and editor of -its publications for many years, the work is presumably his, being -thus an authentic as well as a genuine account of the Mississippi -voyage. This publication therefore ranks side by side with the -original unknown editor's performance, though the two are separated by -an interval of half a century. - -[M-11] Thomas W. Field, Essay towards an Indian Bibl., etc., 1873, p. -313, throws the mantle of charity in the following terms: "Captain -Pike could be charged with no association in this misdemeanor, as the -work was edited and published in his absence on duty." This is true -only in so far as the forerunner of the Mississippi voyage is -concerned (see above, p. xxxiii,) and conveys an erroneous impression -regarding Pike's princeps edition, in which the plagiarism occurs. For -Pike wrote this book himself, and necessarily knew everything there -was in it. See beyond, p. lxi, where the circumstances under which it -was prepared are adduced from hitherto unpublished documents. - -[M-12] "REPORT OF A LATE OCCURRENCE IN THIS PROVINCE OF NEW MEXICO. - -"On the 15th of February last two Indians of the Ute tribe arrived and -brought into my presence an Anglo-American, a young man of genteel -appearance [joben de presencia fina, as Dr. Robinson appeared to be], -whose statement I heard, and even invited him to dine with me, in -order to satisfy myself he was what I supposed him to be as to -intelligence and good breeding. - -"I did not believe him, and suspecting the truth of his statement as -to the nature of his escort, I sent out a small regular detachment and -some provincial troops to reconnoitre, who not only fell in with a -first lieutenant with six soldiers in an excellent fort built on the -Conejos not far from its junction with the Del Norte, two days' -journey from the capital of this province, towards the same direction -[acia el mismo rumbo], but overcoming the obstacles of deep snows, -succeeded in finding the sergeant [Meek] and corporal [meaning Private -Miller] belonging to the detachment, making a total of thirteen -soldiers, two of them [Dougherty and Sparks] with frozen feet, and -having lost nearly all their fingers. [Compare p. 510, beyond.] - -"On the 2d of March last, the above-mentioned lieutenant, whose name -is Mungo-Meri-Paike, came in with six men of his detachment, and on -the 18th the remainder of his men. Without any resistance they -acquiesced in the notification made them, that being in my territory -it was absolutely necessary that they should appear before me. - -"They did so, with their arms, and I assured them that in no respect -should they be treated as prisoners, saving only that, in accordance -with the orders of the general commanding, it was necessary that they -should appear before him and fully explain the objects of their -mission. - -"Paike showed me his instructions from General Wilkinson, his journal, -and a rough sketch of a chart of all the rivers and countries he had -explored. - -"Placing all which papers in a trunk, of which I requested him to -retain the key, I delivered the same to the officer [Capitan Antonio -D'Almansa: see p. 611] commanding his escort--not to be opened save in -presence of the aforesaid general commanding. - -"From all which circumstances, from what I gathered from Robinson and -from the above named officer, I conclude distinctly that the -expedition of July [last--1806] was specially designed to conciliate -two Indian tribes in behalf of the U. S. Government, to make them -liberal presents, and drawing them into friendship, treaty, and -commerce, to place them under the Anglo-American protection--all this -referring especially to the Comanche tribe, the most powerful of our -allies. - -"Furthermore, that the Anglo-American government considers as included -within the boundaries of Louisiana all the rivers that empty into the -Mississippi, and all the territories that extend to the head waters of -the Rio Colorado [meaning that Red r. which is the branch of the -Arkansaw now called the Canadian r. as Meline explains in a footnote], -which rises a few leagues from the pueblo of Taos further to the north -in this province; that it is their intention this year or the next to -establish forts or settlements on all these rivers, in order to -monopolize all the trade and commerce carried on by a large number of -tribes in the province. - -"The detachment of Anglo-American troops referred to, went to -Chihuahua to appear before the commanding general, guarded by an -escort, being allowed to carry their arms and ammunition on account of -the danger of hostile Apaches on the route. - -"All of which is submitted to the general commanding, reminding him of -the representation made in my communication of the 4th of January last -year, concerning the necessity of placing this province on a -respectable footing, and of having frontier posts and positions thrown -out to oppose the ambitious views of the aforesaid Anglo-American -government, exposing also the wretchedly defenseless condition -actually existing, and so found for years past by whomsoever has been -in command. - -"SANTA FE, _April 1st, 1807_." - -[M-13] The reputation of General Wilkinson for honor and patriotism went -under a cloud, from which it has never been cleared, in connection -with the Burr conspiracy. He was technically acquitted, from lack of -evidence to convict; but the proof that he was a mercenary traitor -subsequently appeared. General Winfield Scott is reported to have -called him an "unprincipled imbecile." Governor Adams has lately put -the case bluntly, but as I believe truthfully, Address, July 12th, -1894, p. 20: "General Wilkinson, then in command of the western army, -has been proven by recently discovered documents to have been 'a -rascal through and through.' He was in sympathy and perhaps in the -confidence of Burr. Wearing the uniform and sword of an American -officer, he was in the pay of Spain, and conspired to create out of -the colonies west of the mountains a Spanish empire. It was Wilkinson -who sent Pike west; but no matter how guilty may have been his -superior in command, Pike certainly had no knowledge of his schemes. -Pike was innocent of any stain. He was a patriot as pure and sincere -as Wilkinson was a traitor base and ungrateful." While there is no -question of Pike's perfervid patriotism, we may doubt that his -lamb's-wool was as white as all that; in fact, Governor Adams himself -goes on to say: "It is not entirely clear that Pike was as innocent as -he professed of his whereabouts when captured in the San Luis valley. -Some believe he knew he was upon the Rio Grande, and not upon the Red -[river], as he pretended to believe. But had it been the Red instead -of the Rio Grande, what right had he to be on the south [_i. e._, -west] side of the river, his rude fort being several miles south -[west] of the stream and under an abeyance treaty upon forbidden -ground? The Spaniards believed that Pike carried secret orders to -intrude upon their territory." - -This belief of the Spaniards was well founded: compare my notes at p. -499, p. 504, p. 563, and p. 571. Colonel Meline corroborates the -general tenor and purport of these observations, in the following -terms, p. 313 of his work already cited: - -"Wilkinson's bulky and diffuse published memoirs may be searched in -vain for any information concerning Pike's expedition, and his silence -on the subject is, to say the least, suggestive. - -"Of his complicity with Burr but little doubt is now entertained and -proofs are not wanting of the existence of his designs upon Mexico, -from the period of his note in cypher to Governor Gayoso de Lemas -(February, 1797), and his dealings with [Captain Philip] Nolan, down -to the conspiracy of 1806. - -"It has been stated that Wilkinson himself planned the exploring -expedition of Pike, in order to obtain for his own purposes a more -perfect knowledge of the country, and that he availed himself of his -official authority to have it ordered by the Government. [See note 2, -p. 564.] - -"The Mississippi Herald of September 15th, 1807, published the -affidavit of Judge Timothy Kibby, of the Louisiana Territory, acting -Chief Justice of the Court of Common Pleas for the district of St. -Charles. - -"The affidavit sets forth-- - -"'That in confidential conversation the general (Wilkinson) speaking -of Pike's Expedition, upon inquiry, replied, smiling, that it was of a -_secret nature_, and that Lieutenant Pike himself was not apprised of -the ultimate object of the expedition, but that his destination was -Santa Fe, treating with the Indians as he advanced. - -"'He (Wilkinson) intimated that Lieutenant Pike had been dispatched by -_his orders_; that the plan was his own, not emanating from the -Government, but assented to.'" - -With these pertinent particulars I could--but need not--forbear to -couple the racy characterization given by Mr. Prentis, p. 198 of his -Kansan Abroad: - -"The military officer in charge of the western country at that time -[1806] was General James Wilkinson, a restless, bombastic, fussy old -gentleman, with a rare faculty for getting into difficulties. As an -officer in the Revolutionary army, he was concerned in the [Thomas] -Conway cabal, a plot to supplant Washington, and place in his stead -General Gates, an officer who afterwards got beautifully thrashed by -the British at Camden. He turned up in the army, after being for a -while a merchant at Lexington, Kentucky, in 1791; received Louisiana -from the French in 1803, and contrived to get mixed up in the Burr -business to such an extent that nobody knows to this day, I believe, -which side he was on. He was investigated, court-martialed, and -acquitted; went into the war of 1812; served on the Canadian frontier; -was a conspicuous failure; was court-martialed again [subjected to a -court of inquiry], and again acquitted; and finally, there being in -those days no chance to enter the lecture field, he wrote his memoirs -[1816], and retired to the City of Mexico, where he died. - -"General James Wilkinson in his day was probably the subject of more -uncomplimentary remarks than any man of his caliber in the country, -and I deem it no more than justice to say for him, that, with all his -faults, he was the steadfast friend of Zebulon M. Pike." - -I may add, that left-hand compliments to this notorious individual -have been current from that day to this, and are still in order. One -of the keenest of them is attributed to a distinguished contemporary -who, it is said, favored his appointment to the command of the army as -the only way of "keeping him out of mischief"! - -The following is the formal official record of General Wilkinson: Of -Maryland, appointed from that State colonel and adjutant-general in -Gates' army during the Revolutionary war with brevet of -brigadier-general from Nov. 6th, 1777; lieutenant-colonel commanding -the 2d Infantry Oct. 22d, 1791; brigadier-general March 5th, 1792; -commander-in-chief of the army from Dec. 15th, 1796, to July 13th, -1798, and from June 15th, 1800, to Jan. 27th, 1812; brevet -major-general, July 10th, 1812; major-general, Mar. 2d, 1813; -honorably discharged June 15th, 1815; died Dec. 28th, 1825. - -[M-14] Thomas Hunt of Massachusetts had been a captain in the -Revolutionary Army when he was made a captain of the 2d Infantry Mar. -4th, 1791; he was assigned to the Second sub-Legion Sept. 4th, 1792; -was promoted to a majority Feb. 18th, 1793; was in the 1st Infantry -Nov. 1st, 1796; made a lieutenant-colonel Apr. 1st, 1802, and colonel -April 11th, 1803; he died Aug. 18th, 1808, and it fell to the part of -Pike to announce his death to the War Department. - -[M-15] Baron Friedrich Wilhelm August Heinrich Ferdinand von Steuben, -the Prussian-American general, b. Magdeburg, Nov. 17th, 1730, d. New -York, Nov. 28th, 1794. He entered the Prussian military service in -1744, rising to the rank of adjutant-general and staff officer, 1762; -was distinguished at Prague, Rossbach, Kunersdorf, 1757-1759, and at -the siege of Schweidnitz; and later, in 1764, was grand marshal to the -Prince of Hohenzollern. In 1777 he came to the United States, reaching -Portsmouth, N. H., Dec. 1st; was appointed by Washington -inspector-general, with the rank of major-general, May 5th, 1778; and -reorganized the army. He served at Monmouth and Yorktown, and was a -member of the court-martial on Andre in 1780. His manual for the army -was approved by Congress in 1779; in 1790 he was voted by that body a -life-annuity of $2,500; and New York State gave him 16,000 acres near -Utica. Various places are named Steuben or Steubenville. Life by F. -Bowen in Sparks' Amer. Biogr. Life by F. Kapp, N. Y., 1860. - -[M-16] Cited from Hezekiah Niles' Weekly Register, III. No. 9, pp. 133, -134, Oct. 31st, 1812, into which it was copied from the Philadelphia -Aurora, headed "15th Regiment. To the editor of the Aurora." I copy -literally from the Register, but with modern punctuation, as I shall -do in subsequent extracts from the same source. - -[M-17] William Swan appears in Heitman's Register as major of the "2 -inf" in 1813. On the supposition that this is a typographical error -for 21st Infantry, which was engaged at York, the record may be given -as that of the above-named Major Swan: Of Massachusetts, appointed -from that State a first lieutenant of the 15th Infantry Jan. 8th, -1799; honorably discharged June 15th, 1800; reappointed first -lieutenant in the 1st Infantry Feb. 16th, 1801; captain Nov. 15th, -1807; deputy-quartermaster-general April 3d, 1812; major "2 inf" _i. e._ -21st Infantry, Jan. 20th, 1813; colonel and quartermaster-general -from Aug. 7th, 1813, to June 9th, 1814; lieutenant-colonel 20th -Infantry March 13th, 1814; transferred to the 4th Infantry Apr. 30th, -1814; resigned June 9th, 1814; died June 12th, 1872. - -[M-18] Eleazar Wheelock Ripley, b. Hanover, N. H., Apr. 15th, 1782, -appointed from Massachusetts lieutenant-colonel 21st Infantry Mar. -12th, 1812; colonel of that regiment Mar. 12th, 1813; brigadier-general -Apr. 15th, 1814; and brevet major-general July 25th, 1814, for -gallantry at the battle of Niagara Falls. On the 3d of November, 1814, -he was by resolution of Congress given a gold medal in testimony of -appreciation of his conduct at the battles of Chippewa, Niagara, and -Erie. He resigned Feb. 1st, 1820; was Democratic member of Congress -from Louisiana 1835-39: and d. in that State Mar. 2d, 1839. - -[M-19] Of New York, appointed a captain of the 29th Infantry Mar. 24th, -1813; resigned Mar. 14th, 1814. - -[M-20] From the narrative of Lieutenant Fraser, one of Pike's staff -officers, who was wounded by his side; it was published in the -Philadelphia Aurora, and copied into Niles' Register of Saturday, June -5th, 1813, IV. pp. 225, 226, from which I quote. - -[M-21] Benjamin Forsyth of North Carolina originally entered the army as -a second lieutenant of the 6th Infantry Apr. 24th, 1800, but was very -soon honorably discharged. He was reappointed as a captain of Rifles -July 1st, 1808; became major Jan. 20th, 1813, and was brevetted -lieutenant-colonel for distinguished services Feb. 6th, 1813. He was -killed in action at Odelltown, N. Y., June 28th, 1814. "The death of -this officer was in harmony with his character. After the taking of -York, finding that the official account of the action gave him little -credit for the conspicuous share he had in it, he became sick and -inactive, and kept himself in sullen seclusion among his own men, -apparently determined that no services should be rendered, either by -himself or his men, since they were so inadequately rewarded, or so -unduly estimated. He did little or nothing the residue of that -campaign. Having been promoted before the following campaign, he, on -the Champlain frontier, was put in command of an advanced party, which -was to engage the enemy and then fall back, in order to draw him into -an ambush. Lieutenant-Colonel Forsyth was the last man who was likely -to fulfill such a plan. As soon as he opened the fight with the enemy, -his instructions to fall back were either forgotten or ignored. His -spirit could not brook a retreat, even for an ultimate advantage. He -rushed on and fell, and lost, with his life, all the success that -would probably have followed more prudence, or strict obedience to -orders." (Whiting, _l. c._) - -[M-22] William King of Delaware was appointed from Maryland a second -lieutenant of the 5th Infantry May 3d, 1808; became first lieutenant -Sept. 30th, 1810; captain, 15th Infantry, July 2d, 1812; major, Mar. -3d, 1813. He was made colonel of the 3d Rifles Feb. 21st, 1814; was -transferred to the 4th Infantry May 17th, 1815; honorably discharged -June 1st, 1821; and died Jan. 1st, 1826. - -Two officers named John Scott, both of New Jersey, both of the 15th -Infantry, appear in Heitman's Register. The captain above said was -appointed as such Mar. 12th, 1812, resigned Aug. 15th, 1813, and died -in 1839. The other John Scott did not rise above the rank of a -subaltern. Possibly a single record in this case appears as those of -two different persons. For Captain White Youngs, see note 37, p. -cix. Captain Hoppock's name appears as "Hopsock" in some places. - -[M-23] Alexander C. W. Fanning of Massachusetts was appointed to a -cadetship at West Point April 14th, 1809; he was made a first -lieutenant of the 3d Artillery Mar. 12th, 1812, and promoted to be a -captain Mar. 13th, 1813; transferred to the corps of artillery May -12th, 1814, and to the 2d Artillery June 2d, 1821; became major of the -4th Artillery Nov. 3d, 1832, and lieutenant-colonel Sept. 16th, 1838; -he was transferred to the 2d Artillery May 24th, 1841. On Aug. 15th, -1814, he was brevetted major for gallant conduct at Fort Erie; on Aug. -15th, 1824, he was brevetted lieutenant-colonel for 10 years' faithful -service in one grade; and on Dec. 31st, 1834, he was brevetted colonel -for gallant and meritorious conduct in battle near the Withlachoochee -under General Clinch and in defending Fort Mellon, Florida; he died -Aug. 18th, 1846. - -[M-24] John Walworth of New York was appointed from that State first -lieutenant of the 6th (_sic_--Heitman) Infantry Dec. 12th, 1808; was -made captain Jan. 1st, 1810; major of the 33d Infantry May 1st, 1814, -and honorably discharged June 15th, 1815. - -[M-25] Abram Eustis of Virginia, appointed from Massachusetts a captain -of light artillery May 3d, 1808, became major of the same Mar. 15th, -1810. He was transferred to the 4th Artillery June 1st, 1821; became -lieutenant-colonel of the 2d Artillery May 8th, 1822; was transferred -to the 4th Artillery Aug. 2d, 1822; became colonel of the 1st -Artillery Nov. 17th, 1834, and brigadier-general June 30th, 1834; he -died June 27th, 1843. - -[M-26] David Riddle of Pennsylvania, who had been appointed a second -lieutenant of the 15th Infantry, was at that time a first lieutenant, -ranking as such from Mar. 13th, 1813. He was transferred to the 8th -Infantry May 17th, 1815, and became captain Dec. 3d, 1816, when he had -already been twice brevetted, for distinguished services at the battle -of Niagara Falls, and for gallant conduct in the sortie from Fort -Erie. - -[M-27] Lossing says elsewhere that one of the officers told him his own -life was probably saved by the bulk of this sergeant, who was blown -against him. This officer was Lieutenant Fraser, one of Pike's aids, -whose own words on the subject are given in Niles' Register, IV. p. -226: "The general had just aided in removing a wounded man with his -own hands, and sat down on a stump with a British sergeant we had -taken prisoner, whom the general, with Captain Nicholson and myself, -were examining, when the explosion took place. The general, Captain -Nicholson, and the British sergeant, were all mortally wounded, and I -was so much bruised in the general crash, that it is surprising how I -survived; probably I owe my escape to the corpulency of the British -serjeant, whose body was thrown upon mine by the concussion." - -[M-28] The figures, vary, as usual. The official report gives our loss -as 38 killed and 222 wounded by the explosion; which, added to 14 -killed and 32 wounded in battle gives a total of 306 army casualties -on our side in the whole affair; to which add 3 killed and 11 wounded -of the navy, making 320 in all. Whiting's figures for killed and -wounded, on the American side, are 320; on the British, in killed, -wounded, and taken, "about 500." The tabular exhibit in Niles' -Register, IV. p. 238, is as follows: - - _Killed in battle_--1 subaltern, 2 sergeants, 1 corporal, 2 - musicians, 8 privates 14 - - _Killed by the explosion_--1 captain, 4 sergeants, 4 - corporals, 29 privates 38 - --- - _Total killed_ 52 - === - _Wounded in battle_--2 captains (one since dead), 1 - subaltern, 3 sergeants, 4 corporals, 22 privates 32 - - _Wounded by the explosion_--1 brig. gen. (since dead), 1 - aid-de-camp, 1 acting aid, 1 volunteer aid, 6 captains, 6 - subalterns, 11 sergeants, 9 corporals, 1 musician, 185 - privates 222 - --- - _Total wounded_ 254 - === - _Total killed and wounded_ 306 - - _Of the navy_--2 midshipmen and 1 seaman killed, 11 seamen - wounded 14 - === - _Total killed and wounded_ 320 - -[M-29] The statement that General Sheaffe's retreat was so precipitate -that he lost his papers is confirmed by General Dearborn in a letter -to the Secretary of War, dated Niagara, May 3d, 1813 (Niles' Register, -_ibid._): "York was a magazine for Niagara, Detroit, etc., and -notwithstanding the immense amount which was destroyed by them, we -found more than we could bring off. Gen. Sheaffe's baggage and papers -fell into my hands; the papers are a valuable acquisition. A SCALP was -found in the executive and legislative council chamber, suspended near -the speaker's chair in company with the mace, etc." - -This "scalp incident," as it came to be known, and as I may remark in -passing, became the probably groundless pretext for a storm of abuse -of British methods of warfare. In the feverish state of public opinion -which the startling climax of the battle of York excited almost to -frenzy, it was regarded as adding insult to injury, and furthermore -taken as a proof that our dead and wounded would be handed over by the -British to their Indian allies, to be dealt with according to the -customs of savage warfare. Thus, the usually temperate and judicious -editor of the Register could permit himself to say: "The '_mace_' is -the emblem of authority, and the _scalp's_ position near it is truly -symbolical of the _British_ power in _Canada_. Horrible and infamous -wretches! But the reign of the murderers is nearly at an end," p. 190. -And again, p. 259, with "scalp" in large capitals, and various other -typographical methods of relieving his state of mind: "BRITISH -HUMANITY. When major-general _Dearborn_ stated that a SCALP had been -found in the _government-house of Upper Canada_, suspended near the -mace, the emblem of power, many persons affected to doubt the fact; -but most men believed, not only because General Dearborn had stated -the circumstance, but because it was strictly characteristic of the -_British_ government, which is as base and deliberately wicked as any -other in the civilized world. But the horrible fact is further and -conclusively established by commodore _Chauncey_, whose testimony will -not be disputed, openly, by those who _pretended_ to disbelieve gen. -Dearborn. Let us hear no more of '_British humanity_ and -_religion_'--nor permit these great attributes to be lavished upon -murderous villains. It is fact, horrible fact, that the legislature of -'_unoffending Canada_' did sanction (by hanging up in their hall, in -evidence of their authority, a _human scalp_) the murders of our -people by the savages. Great Heaven!" This senseless outburst -concludes with the following letter: - - _U. S. Ship Madison, Sackett's Harbor, 4th June, 1813._ - -SIR--I have the honor to present to you by the hands of lieutenant -Dudley, the British standard taken at York on the 27th of April last, -_accompanied by the mace, over which hung a human_ SCALP.--Those -articles were taken from the _parliament house_ by one of my officers -and presented to me. The scalp I caused to be presented to general -Dearborn, who I believe still has it in his possession. I also send by -the same gentleman, one of the British flags taken at Fort George on -the 27th of May. - -I have the honor to be, very respectfully, sir, your most obedient -humble servant, - - [Signed] ISAAC CHAUNCEY. - - HONORABLE WM. JONES, - _Secretary of the Navy, Washington_. - -It may be here added that the practice of scalping is by no means -confined to the aborigines of North America. Among white Americans, it -has never been too uncommon to excite remark, still less reprobation; -and though it may not have been a regularly recognized and practiced -incident of our warfare with Indians of late years, one has only to -read any of the chronicles of our earlier warrings with Indian, -English, or French foes, to perceive the entire reciprocity of the -custom. It fell into desuetude, on our part, less from any disrepute -than from sheer indifference. Instances are not lacking during the -last century, of our skinning whole Indians, tanning their hides, and -manufacturing the leather into various articles of use or joy; and -when we ceased to scalp as a rule, it was simply because scalps were -no longer worth the trouble of taking. I am myself no stranger to -reeking Apache scalps, taken both by citizens and soldiery. I knew a -young officer of our army who, in a spirit of bravado, fastened an -Apache scalp to each of his spurs, and wore them with the long black -hair trailing at his heels during one of his hunts for Indians in -Arizona. The legislature of one of our Territories passed a bill -offering a reward of a certain sum of money for every "buck" Indian's -scalp which should be produced, and a certain other sum for the scalp -of "anything in the shape of an Indian," _i. e._, woman or child. The -British general, Henry Hamilton, while lieutenant-governor at Detroit, -had a regular tariff of prices both for prisoners and for scalps which -he purchased from Indians and from white renegades, thus acquiring the -soubriquet of "the hair-buying general," applied to him by George -Rogers Clark. Honors are so easy on this score that they do not count -in the game of war which the British played with their American -cousins. - -[M-30] "A distinguished officer who was in the battle at York states -that, as he passed the general, after he was wounded, he cried, 'Push -on, my brave fellows, and avenge your general.' As he was breathing -his last the British standard was brought to him; he made a sign to -have it placed under his head, and died without a groan." - -[M-31] Cromwell Pearce of Pennsylvania. He had been appointed from his -State a first lieutenant of the 10th Infantry May 3d, 1799, and -honorably discharged June 15th, 1800. His colonelcy of the 16th -Infantry dated from April 25th, 1813; he was honorably discharged June -15th, 1815, and died April 2d, 1852. - -[M-32] George E. Mitchell of Maryland became major of the 3d Artillery -May 1st, 1812, and lieutenant-colonel Mar. 3d, 1813; he was brevetted -colonel May 5th, 1814, for gallant conduct in repelling the attack of -British forces on Fort Oswego, N. Y.; transferred to corps of -Artillery May 12th, 1814, and to 3d Artillery June 1st, 1821; he -resigned the same day, and died June 28th, 1832. - -[M-33] Samuel S. Conner of New Hampshire was appointed from -Massachusetts major of the 21st Infantry, Mar. 12th, 1812; became -lieutenant-colonel of the 13th Infantry Mar. 12th, 1813; resigned July -14th, 1814, and died Dec. 17th, 1820. - -[M-34] Benjamin Nicholson of Maryland, who languished of his wounds till -May 13th. He had been appointed a first lieutenant of the 14th -Infantry Mar. 12th, 1812, and promoted to be captain Mar. 3d, 1813. - -[M-35] This is but a mild sample of the epithets by which Sheaffe's -firing of the magazine was stigmatized in phrases current at a time -when invective was invoked till language was exhausted. In the cooling -of overheated passions a sense of humor stole in to the relief of -surcharged feelings, and execration of the shocking catastrophe -subsided from the sublime to the ridiculous. "And it was not until -after the capture of Fort George," says Whiting, p. 306, "that this -explosion ceased to haunt, like a dreadful spectre, the American army. -While preparing for that capture, it seemed to be a settled conviction -in the mind of the commander-in-chief, that explosions were to be the -ordinary means of warfare with the British. On the point opposite Fort -Niagara, and not far from Fort George, stood a lighthouse, which was -made of stone. The common impression was, that these stones were to be -discharged upon our heads whenever we made the attempt to land; it -being taken for granted that we should land between that and a -neighboring wood, as the open grounds there were completely commanded -by the guns of our fort. Many British deserters came over during the -month which elapsed between the capture of York and Fort George. The -question asked of each was, whether the lighthouse were _mined_. No -answer intimated that it was; still it was determined to land at a -safe distance from it, though the point chosen afforded the enemy an -excellent cover, where his batteries could be silenced only by our -vessels. After the landing had been effected, the lighthouse was -approached by stragglers with much caution, until some one, more hardy -or more curious than the rest, entering into it, found within its -recesses, instead of a Guy Fawkes, some women and children, who had -taken shelter there from the dangers of the day." - -[M-36] Henry H. Van Dalsem of New Jersey became a captain of the 15th -Infantry Mar. 12th, 1812, and resigned June 15th, 1815. - -Joseph L. Barton of New Jersey was appointed a first lieutenant of the -15th Infantry Mar. 12th, 1812, promoted to be captain July 30th, 1812, -and honorably discharged June 15th, 1815. - -Abraham Godwin of New Jersey was appointed a second lieutenant of the -15th Infantry Mar. 12th, 1812, became first lieutenant May 13th, 1813, -and was honorably discharged June 15th, 1815. - -[M-37] White Youngs of New York was made a captain of the 15th Infantry -Mar. 12th, 1812; transferred to the 8th Infantry May 17th, 1815; -brevetted major Sept. 11th, 1814, for gallant conduct at Plattsburgh, -N. Y.; resigned Mar. 8th, 1819, and died Dec. 8th, 1822. - -[M-38] Daniel E. Burch of New Jersey was appointed from that State -ensign in the 15th Infantry Oct. 7th, 1812; became third lieutenant -Mar. 13th, 1813, and second lieutenant Aug. 15th, 1813: he was -regimental paymaster from Mar. 12th, 1814, to June 15th, 1815, and -honorably discharged June 15th, 1815. He re-entered the service as -second lieutenant of the 7th Infantry Jan. 5th, 1817; became first -lieutenant June 7th, 1817, and captain June 30th, 1820; acted as -assistant quartermaster from Oct. 25th, 1822, to June 27th, 1831; -resigned Apr. 30th, 1833, and died May 8th, 1833. - - - - -PIKE'S EXPEDITIONS. - - - - -Part I. - -_THE MISSISSIPPI VOYAGE._ - - - - -CHAPTER I. - -ITINERARY: ST. LOUIS TO ST. PAUL, AUGUST 9TH-SEPTEMBER 21ST, 1805. - - -Sailed from my encampment, near St. Louis, at 4 p. m., on Friday, the -9th of August, 1805, with one sergeant, two corporals, and 17 -privates, in a keel-boat 70 feet long, provisioned for four months. -Water very rapid. Encamped on the east side of the river, at the head -of an island.[I-1] - -_Aug. 10th._ Embarked early; breakfasted opposite the mouth of the -Missouri, near Wood creek.[I-2] About 5 p. m. a storm came on from the -westward; the boat lay-to. Having gone out to march with two men -behind a cluster of islands, one of my soldiers swam a channel in the -night, to inform me that the boat had stopped during the storm. I -remained on the beach all night. Distance 281/2 miles.[I-3] - -_Sunday, Aug. 11th._ In the morning the boat came up and stopped -opposite the Portage De Sioux.[I-4] We here spread out our baggage to -dry; discharged our guns at a target, and scaled out our -blunderbusses. Dined at the cave below the Illinois, at the mouth of -which river we remained some time. From the course of the Mississippi, -the Illinois[I-5] might be mistaken for a part of it. Encamped on the -lower point of an island,[I-6] about six miles above the Illinois; were -much detained by passing the east side of some islands above the -Illinois; and were obliged to get into the water and haul the boat -through. - -_Aug. 12th._ In the morning made several miles to breakfast; about 3 -o'clock p. m. passed Buffaloe [Cuivre or Copper river] or riviere au -Boeuf, about five miles above which commences a beautiful cedar -cliff. Having passed this, the river expands to nearly two miles in -width, and has four islands, whose lowest points are nearly parallel; -these we called the Four Brothers. Encamped on the point of the east -one. It rained very hard all night. Caught one catfish. Distance 293/4 -miles.[I-7] - -_Aug. 13th._ Late before we sailed; passed a vast number of islands; -left one of our dogs on shore; were much detained by sand-bars, and -obliged to haul our boat over several of them; observed several -[Indian] encampments which had been lately occupied. Rained all day. -Distance 27 miles.[I-8] - -_Aug. 14th._ Hard rain in the morning; but a fine wind springing up, -we put off at half-past six o'clock. Passed a camp of Sacs, consisting -of three men with their families. They were employed in spearing and -scaffolding a fish,[I-9] about three feet in length, with a long flat -snout; they pointed out the channel, and prevented us from taking the -wrong one. I gave them a small quantity of whisky and biscuit; and -they, in return, presented me with some fish. Sailed on through a -continuation of islands for nearly 20 miles; met a young gentleman, -Mr. Robedoux,[I-10] by whom I sent a letter to St. Louis; encamped on an -island; caught 1,375 small fish. Rained all day. Distance 28 -miles.[I-11] - -_Aug. 15th._ Still raining in the morning. From the continued series -of wet weather, the men were quite galled and sore. Met a Mr. -Kettletas of N. Y., who gave me a line to Mr. Fisher of the Prairie -Des Chein [du Chien]. Passed a small [elsewhere named Bar] river to -the W., with a sand-bar at its entrance; also, passed Salt [elsewhere -called Oahahah] river, which I do not recollect having seen on any -chart; it is a considerable stream, and at high water is navigable for -at least 200 miles. Left another dog. Distance 26 miles.[I-12] - -_Aug. 16th._ Embarked early, but were so unfortunate as to get fast on -a log; and did not extricate ourselves until past eleven o'clock, -having to saw off a log under the water. At three o'clock arrived at -the house of a Frenchman, situate on the W. side of the river, -opposite Hurricane island. His cattle appeared to be in fine order, -but his corn in a bad state of cultivation. About one mile above his -house, on the W. shore, is a very handsome hill, which he informed me -was level on the top, with a gradual descent on either side, and a -fountain of fine water. This man likewise told me that two men had -been killed on the Big Bay, or Three Brothers; and desired to be -informed what measures had been taken in consequence thereof. Caught -three catfish and one perch. Encamped four miles above the house. -Distance 18 miles.[I-13] - -_Aug. 17th._ Embarked and came on remarkably well; at ten o'clock -stopped for breakfast, and in order to arrange our sail; when the wind -served, we put off and continued under easy sail all day. Passed three -batteaux. Distance 39 miles.[I-14] - -_Sunday, Aug. 18th._ Embarked early; about eleven o'clock passed an -Indian camp, on the E. side. They fired several guns; but we passed -without stopping. Very hard head winds part of the day. Caught six -fish. Distance 23 miles.[I-15] - -_Aug. 19th._ Embarked early and made fine way; but at nine o'clock, in -turning the point of a sand-bar, our boat struck a sawyer. At the -moment, we did not know it had injured her; but, in a short time -after, discovered her to be sinking; however, by thrusting oakum into -the leak and bailing, we got her to shore on a bar, where, after -entirely unloading, we with great difficulty keeled her sufficiently -to cut out the plank and put in a new one. This at the time I -conceived to be a great misfortune; but upon examination we discovered -that the injury resulting from it was greater than we were at first -induced to believe; for upon inspection we found our provisions and -clothing considerably damaged. The day was usefully and necessarily -employed in assorting, sunning, and airing those articles. One of my -hunters, Sparks, having gone on shore to hunt, swam the river about -seven miles above and killed a deer; but finding we did not come, he -returned down the river, and joined us by swimming. Whilst we were at -work at our boat on the sand-beach, three canoes with Indians passed -on the opposite shore. They cried, "How-do-you-do?" wishing us to give -them an invitation to come over; but receiving no answer they passed -on. We then put our baggage on board and put off, designing to go -where the young man had killed the deer; but after dark we became -entangled among the sand-bars, and were obliged to stop and encamp on -the point of a beach. Caught two fish. Distance 14 miles.[I-16] - -_Aug. 20th._ Arrived at the foot of the rapids De Moyen[I-17] at seven -o'clock. Although no soul on board had passed them, we commenced -ascending them immediately. Our boat being large and moderately -loaded, we found great difficulty. The river all the way through is -from three-quarters to a mile wide. The rapids are 11 miles long, with -successive ridges and shoals extending from shore to shore. The first -has the greatest fall and is the most difficult to ascend. The -channel, a bad one, is on the east side in passing the two first bars; -then passes under the edge of the third; crosses to the west, and -ascends on that side, all the way to the Sac village. The shoals -continue the whole distance. We had passed the first and most -difficult shoal, when we were met by Mr. Wm. Ewing,[I-18] who I -understand is an agent appointed to reside with the Sacs to teach them -the science of agriculture, with a French interpreter, four chiefs and -15 men of the Sac nation, in their canoes, bearing a flag of the -United States. They came down to assist me up the rapids; took out 14 -of my heaviest barrels, and put two of their men in the barge to pilot -us up. Arrived at the house of Mr. Ewing, opposite the village, at -dusk. The land on both sides of the rapids is hilly, but a rich soil. -Distance 16 miles.[I-19] - -_Aug. 21st._ All the chief men of the village came over to my -encampment, where I spoke to them to the following purport: - -"That their great father, the president of the United States, wishing -to be more intimately acquainted with the situation, wants, &c., of -the different nations of the red people, in our newly acquired -territory of Louisiana, had ordered the general to send a number of -his young warriors in different directions, to take them by the hand, -and make such inquiries as might afford the satisfaction required. - -"That I was authorized to choose situations for their trading -establishments; and wished them to inform me if that place would be -considered by them as central. - -"That I was sorry to hear of the murder which had been committed on -the river below; but, in consideration of their assurances that it was -none of their nation, and the anxiety exhibited by them on the -occasion, I had written to the general and informed him of what they -had said on the subject. - -"That in their treaty they engaged to apprehend all traders who came -among them without license; for that time, I could not examine their -traders on this subject; but that, on my return, I would make a -particular examination. - -"That if they thought proper they might send a young man in my boat, -to inform the other villages of my mission," etc. - -I then presented them with some tobacco, knives, and whisky. They -replied to the following purport: - -"That they thanked me for the good opinion I had of their nation, and -for what I had written the general. That themselves, their young -warriors, and the whole nation, were glad to see me among them. - -"That as for the situation of the trading-houses, they could not -determine, being but a part of the nation. With respect to sending a -young man along, that if I would wait until to-morrow, they would -choose one out. And finally, that they thanked me for my tobacco, -knives, and whisky." - -Not wishing to lose any time, after writing to the general[I-20] and my -friends, I embarked and made six miles above the village. Encamped on -a sand-bar. One canoe of savages passed. - -_Aug. 22d._ Embarked at 5 o'clock a. m. Hard head winds. Passed a -great number of islands. The river very wide and full of sand-bars. -Distance 23 miles.[I-21] - -_Aug. 23d._ Cool morning. Came on 51/4 miles, where, on the west shore, -there is a very handsome situation for a garrison. The channel of the -river passes under the hill, which is about 60 feet perpendicular, -and level on the top; 400 yards in the rear there is a small prairie -of 8 or 10 acres, which would be a convenient spot for gardens; and on -the east side of the river there is a beautiful prospect over a large -prairie, as far as the eye can extend, now and then interrupted by -groves of trees. Directly under the rock is a limestone spring, which, -after an hour's work, would afford water amply sufficient for the -consumption of a regiment. The landing is bold and safe, and at the -lower part of the hill a road may be made for a team in half an hour. -Black and white oak timber in abundance. The mountain continues about -two miles, and has five springs bursting from it in that distance. - -Met four Indians and two squaws; landed with them; gave them one quart -of _made_ whisky [_i. e._, about three-fourths water], a few biscuit, -and some salt. I requested some venison of them; they pretended they -could not understand me; but after we had left them they held up two -hams, and hallooed and laughed at us in derision. Passed nine horses -on shore, and saw many signs of Indians. Passed a handsome prairie on -the east side, and encamped at its head.[I-22] - -Three batteaux from Michilimackinac stopped at our camp. We were told -they were the property of Mr. Myers Michals. We were also informed -that the largest Sac village was about 21/2 miles out on the prairie; -and that this prairie was called halfway from St. Louis to the prairie -Des Cheins. - -_Aug. 24th._ In the morning passed a number of islands. Before dinner, -Corporal Bradley and myself took our guns and went on shore; we got -behind a savannah, by following a stream we conceived to have been a -branch of the river, but which led us at least two leagues from -it.[I-23] My two favorite dogs, having gone out with us, gave out in the -prairie, owing to the heat, high grass, and want of water; but, -thinking they would come on, we continued our march. We heard the -report of a gun, and supposing it to be from our boat, answered it; -shortly after, however, we passed an Indian trail, which appeared as -if the persons had been hurried, I presume at the report of our guns; -for with this people all strangers are enemies. Shortly after we -struck the river, and the boat appeared in view; stayed some time for -my dogs; two of my men volunteered to go in search of them. Encamped -on the west shore, nearly opposite a chalk bank. My two men had not -yet returned, and it was extraordinary, as they knew my boat never -waited for any person on shore. They endeavored to strike the -Mississippi ahead of us. We fired a blunderbuss at three different -times, to let them know where we lay. Distance 231/2 miles.[I-24] - -_Sunday, Aug. 25th._ Stopped on the Sand-bank prairie on the E. side -[about New Boston, Ill.], from which you have a beautiful prospect of -at least 40 miles down the river, bearing S. 38 deg. E. Discovered that -our boat leaked very fast; but we secured her inside so completely -with oakum and tallow as nearly to prevent the leak. Fired a -blunderbuss every hour, all day, as signals for our men. Passed the -river Iowa. Encamped at night on the prairie marked Grant's prairie -[below Muscatine, Ia.]. The men had not yet arrived. Distance 28 -miles.[I-25] - -_Aug. 26th._ Rain, with a very hard head wind. Towed our boat about -nine miles, to where the river Hills join the Mississippi. Here I -expected to find the two men I had lost, but was disappointed. The -mercury in Reamur [Reaumur] at 13 deg.; whereas yesterday it was 26 deg. [=611/4 -and 901/2 Fahr.] Met two peroques [_sic_[I-26]] full of Indians, who -commenced hollowing [hallooing] "How do you do?" etc. They then put to -shore and beckoned us to do likewise, but we continued our course. -This day very severe on the men. Distance 281/2 miles.[I-27] - -_Aug. 27th._ Embarked early; cold north wind; mercury 10 deg.; the wind so -hard ahead that we were obliged to tow the boat all day. Passed one -peroque of Indians; also, the Riviere De Roche [Rock river], late in -the day. Some Indians, who were encamped there, embarked in their -canoes and ascended the river before us. The wind was so very strong -that, although it was down the stream, they were near sinking. -Encamped about four miles above the Riviere De Roche, on the W. shore. -This day passed a pole on a prairie on which five dogs were hanging. -Distance 22 miles.[I-28] - -_Aug. 28th._ About an hour after we had embarked, we arrived at the -camp of Mr. James Aird,[I-29] a Scotch gentleman of Michilimackinac. He -had encamped, with some goods, on the beach, and was repairing his -boat, which had been injured in crossing [descending] the rapids of -the Riviere De Roche, at the foot of which we now were. He had sent -three boats back for the goods left behind. Breakfasted with him and -obtained considerable information. Commenced ascending the rapids. -Carried away our rudder in the first rapid; but after getting it -repaired, the wind raised and we hoisted sail. Although entire -strangers, we sailed through them with a perfect gale blowing all the -time; had we struck a rock, in all probability we would have bilged -and sunk. But we were so fortunate as to pass without touching. Met -Mr. Aird's boats, which had pilots, fast on the rocks. Those shoals -are a continued chain of rocks, extending in some places from shore to -shore, about 18 miles in length.[I-30] They afford more water than those -of De Moyen, but are much more rapid. - -_Aug. 29th._ Breakfasted at the Reynard village, above the rapids; -this is the first village of the Reynards.[I-31] I expected to find my -two men here, but was disappointed. Finding they had not passed, I lay -by until four o'clock, the wind fair all the time. The chief informed -me, by signs, that in four days they could march to Prairie Des -Cheins; and promised to furnish them with mockinsons [moccasins], and -put them on their route. Set sail and made at least four knots an -hour. I was disposed to sail all night; but the wind lulling, we -encamped on the point of an island, on the W. shore. Distance 20 -miles.[I-32] - -_Aug. 30th._ Embarked at five o'clock; wind fair, but not very high. -Sailed all day. Passed four peroques of Indians. Distance 43 -miles.[I-33] - -_Aug. 31st._ Embarked early. Passed one peroque of Indians; also, two -encampments, one on a beautiful eminence on the W. side of the river. -This place had the appearance of an old town. Sailed almost all day. -Distance 311/2 miles.[I-34] - -_Sunday, Sept. 1st._ Embarked early; wind fair; arrived at the lead -mines [Dubuque, Ia.] at twelve o'clock. A dysentery, with which I had -been afflicted several days, was suddenly checked this morning, which -I believe to have been the occasion of a very violent attack of fever -about eleven o'clock. Notwithstanding it was very severe, I dressed -myself, with an intention to execute the orders of the general -relative to this place. We were saluted with a field-piece, and -received with every mark of attention by Monsieur [Julien] Dubuque, -the proprietor. There were no horses at the house, and it was six -miles to where the mines were worked; it was therefore impossible to -make a report by actual inspection. I therefore proposed 10 queries, -on the answers to which my report was founded.[I-35] - -Dined with Mr. D., who informed me that the Sioux and Sauteurs[I-36] -were as warmly engaged in opposition as ever; that not long since the -former killed 15 Sauteurs, who on the 10th of August in return killed -10 Sioux, at the entrance of the St. Peters [Minnesota river]; and -that a war-party, composed of Sacs, Reynards, and Puants -[Winnebagoes[I-37]], of 200 warriors, had embarked on an expedition -against the Sauteurs; but that they had heard that the chief, having -had an unfavorable dream, persuaded the party to return, and that I -would meet them on my voyage. At this place I was introduced to a -chief called Raven, of the Reynards. He made a very flowery speech on -the occasion, which I answered in a few words, accompanied by a small -present. - -I had now given up all hopes of my two men, and was about to embark -when a peroque arrived, in which they were, with a Mr. Blondeau, and -two Indians whom that gentleman had engaged above the rapids of Stony -[Rock] river. The two soldiers had been six days without anything to -eat except muscles [mussels], when they met Mr. James Aird, by whose -humanity and attention their strength and spirits were in a measure -restored; and they were enabled to reach the Reynard village, where -they met Mr. B. The Indian chief furnished them with corn and shoes, -and showed his friendship by every possible attention. I immediately -discharged the hire of the Indians, and gave Mr. Blondeau a passage to -the Prairie des Cheins. Left the lead mines at four o'clock. Distance -25 miles.[I-38] - -_Sept. 2d._ After making two short reaches, we commenced one which is -30 miles in length; the wind serving, we just made it, and encamped on -the E. side [near Cassville, Wis.], opposite the mouth of Turkey -river. In the course of the day we landed to shoot pigeons. The moment -a gun was fired, some Indians, who were on the shore above us, ran -down and put off in their peroques with great precipitation; upon -which Mr. Blondeau informed me that all the women and children were -frightened at the very name of an American boat, and that the men held -us in great respect, conceiving us very quarrelsome, much for war, and -also very brave. This information I used as prudence suggested. We -stopped at an encampment about three miles below the town, where they -gave us some excellent plums. They dispatched a peroque to the -village, to give notice, as I supposed, of our arrival. It commenced -raining about dusk, and rained all night. Distance 40 miles.[I-39] - -_Sept. 3d._ Embarked at a pretty early hour. Cloudy. Met two peroques -of family Indians; they at first asked Mr. Blondeau "if we were for -war, or if going to war?" I now experienced the good effect of having -some person on board who could speak their language; for they -presented me with three pair of ducks and a quantity of venison, -sufficient for all our crew for one day; in return, I made them some -trifling presents. Afterward met two peroques, carrying some of the -warriors spoken of on the 2d inst. They kept at a great distance, -until spoken to by Mr. B., when they informed him that their party had -proceeded up as high as Lake Pepin without effecting anything. It is -surprising what a dread the Indians in this quarter have of the -Americans. I have often seen them go round islands to avoid meeting my -boat. It appears to me evident that the traders have taken great pains -to impress upon the minds of the savages the idea of our being a very -vindictive, ferocious, and warlike people. This impression was perhaps -made with no good intention; but when they find that our conduct -toward them is guided by magnanimity and justice, instead of operating -in an injurious manner, it will have the effect to make them reverence -at the same time they fear us. Distance 25 miles.[I-40] - -_Sept. 4th._ Breakfasted just below the Ouiscousing [Wisconsin -river[I-41]]. Arrived at the Prairie des Cheins about eleven o'clock; -took quarters at Captain Fisher's, and were politely received by him -and Mr. Frazer. - -_Sept. 5th._ Embarked about half-past ten o'clock in a Schenectady -boat, to go to the mouth of the Ouiscousing, in order to take the -latitude [which I found to be 43 deg. 28' 8" N.], and look at the -situation of the adjacent hills for a post. Was accompanied by Judge -Fisher, Mr. Frazer, and Mr. Woods. We ascended the hill[I-42] on the -west side of the Mississippi, and made choice of a spot which I -thought most eligible, being level on the top, having a spring in the -rear, and commanding a view of the country around. A shower of rain -came on which completely wet us, and we returned to the village -without having ascended the Ouiscousing as we intended. Marked four -trees with A. B. C. D., and squared the sides of one in the center. -Wrote to the general. - -_Sept. 6th._ Had a small council with the Puants, and a chief of the -lower band of the Sioux. Visited and laid out a position for a post, -on a hill called the Petit Gris [Gres],[I-43] on the Ouiscousing, three -miles above its mouth. Mr. Fisher, who accompanied me, was taken very -sick, in consequence of drinking some water out of the Ouiscousing, -The Puants never have any white interpreters, nor have the Fols Avoin -[Folle Avoine (Menominee)[I-44]] nation. In my council I spoke to a -Frenchman and he to a Sioux, who interpreted to some of the Puants. - -_Sept. 7th._ My men beat all the villagers jumping and hopping. Began -to load my new boats. - -_Sept. 8th._ Embarked at half-past eleven o'clock in two batteaux. The -wind fair and fresh. I found myself very much embarrassed and cramped -in my new boats, with provision and baggage. I embarked two -interpreters, one to perform the whole voyage, whose name was Pierre -Rosseau [Rousseau[I-45]]; and the other named Joseph Reinulle -[Reinville[I-46]], paid by Mr. Frazer to accompany me as high as the -falls of St. Anthony. Mr. Frazer[I-47] is a young gentleman, clerk to -Mr. Blakely of Montreal; he was born in Vermont, but has latterly -resided in Canada. To the attention of this gentleman I am much -indebted; he procured for me everything in his power that I stood in -need of, dispatched his bark canoes, and remained himself to go on -with me. His design was to winter with some of the Sioux bands. We -sailed well, came 18 miles, and encamped on the W. bank.[I-48] - -I must not omit here to bear testimony to the politeness of all the -principal inhabitants of the village. There is, however, a material -distinction to be made in the nature of those attentions: The kindness -of Messrs. Fisher, Frazer, and Woods, all Americans, seemed to be the -spontaneous effusions of good will, and partiality to their -countrymen; it extended to the accommodation, convenience, exercises, -and pastimes of my men; and whenever they proved superior to the -French, openly showed their pleasure. But the French Canadians -appeared attentive rather from their natural good manners than sincere -friendship; however, it produced from them the same effect that -natural good will did in the others. - -_Sept. 9th._ Embarked early. Dined at Cape Garlic, or at Garlic river; -after which we came on to an island on the E. side, about five miles -below the river [Upper] Iowa, and encamped. Rained before sunset. -Distance 28 miles.[I-49] - -_Sept. 10th._ Rain still continuing, we remained at our camp. Having -shot at some pigeons, the report was heard at the Sioux lodges, the -same to whom I spoke on the 6th at the Prairie [du Chien]; when La -Fieulle [Feuille[I-50]] sent down six of his young men to inform me -"that he had waited three days with meat, etc., but that last night -they had began to drink, and that on the next day he would receive me -with his people sober." I returned him for answer "that the season was -advanced, time was pressing, and if the rain ceased I must go on." Mr. -Frazer and the interpreter went home with the Indians. We embarked -about one o'clock.[I-51] Frazer, returning, informed me that the chief -acquiesced in my reasons for pressing forward, but that he had -prepared a pipe (by way of letter) to present me, to show to all the -Sioux above, with a message to inform them that I was a chief of their -new fathers, and that he wished me to be treated with friendship and -respect. - -On our arrival opposite the lodges, the men were paraded on the bank, -with their guns in their hands. They saluted us with ball with what -might be termed three rounds; which I returned with three rounds from -each boat with my blunderbusses. This salute, although nothing to -soldiers accustomed to fire, would not be so agreeable to many -people; as the Indians had all been drinking, and as some of them even -tried their dexterity, to see how near the boat they could strike. -They may, indeed, be said to have struck on every side of us. When -landed, I had my pistols in my belt and sword in hand. I was met on -the bank by the chief, and invited to his lodge. As soon as my guards -were formed and sentinels posted, I accompanied him. Some of my men -who were going up with me I caused to leave their arms behind, as a -mark of confidence. At the chief's lodge I found a clean mat and -pillow for me to sit on, and the before-mentioned pipe on a pair of -small crutches before me. The chief sat on my right hand, my -interpreter and Mr. Frazer on my left. After smoking, the chief spoke -to the following purport: - -"That, notwithstanding he had seen me at the Prairie [du Chien], he -was happy to take me by the hand among his own people, and there show -his young men the respect due to their new father [President -Jefferson]. That, when at St. Louis in the spring, his father [General -Wilkinson] had told him that if he looked down the river he would see -one of his young warriors [Pike] coming up. He now found it true, and -he was happy to see me, who knew the Great Spirit was the father of -all, both the white and the red people; and if one died, the other -could not live long. That he had never been at war with their new -father, and hoped always to preserve the same understanding that now -existed. That he now presented me with a pipe, to show to the upper -bands as a token of our good understanding, and that they might see -his work and imitate his conduct. That he had gone to St. Louis on a -shameful visit, to carry a murderer; but that we had given the man his -life, and he thanked us for it. That he had provided something to eat, -but he supposed I could not eat it; and if not, to give it to my young -men." - -I replied: "That, although I had told him at the Prairie my business -up the Mississippi, I would again relate it to him." I then mentioned -the different objects I had in view with regard to the savages who had -fallen under our protection by our late purchase from the Spaniards; -the different posts to be established; the objects of these posts as -related to them; supplying them with necessaries; having officers and -agents of government near them to attend to their business; and above -all to endeavor to make peace between the Sioux and Sauteurs. "That it -was possible on my return I should bring some of the Sauteurs down -with me, and take with me some of the Sioux chiefs to St. Louis, there -to settle the long and bloody war which had existed between the two -nations. That I accepted his pipe with pleasure, as the gift of a -great man, the chief of four bands, and a brother; that it should be -used as he desired." I then eat of the dinner he had provided, which -was very grateful. It was wild rye [rice?] and venison, of which I -sent four bowls to my men. - -I afterward went to a dance, the performance of which was attended -with many curious maneuvers. Men and women danced indiscriminately. -They were all dressed in the gayest manner; each had in the hand a -small skin of some description, and would frequently run up, point -their skin, and give a puff with their breath; when the person blown -at, whether man or woman, would fall, and appear to be almost -lifeless, or in great agony; but would recover slowly, rise, and join -in the dance. This they called their great medicine; or, as I -understood the word, dance of religion, the Indians believing that -they actually puffed something into each others' bodies which -occasioned the falling, etc. It is not every person who is admitted; -persons wishing to join them must first make valuable presents to the -society to the amount of $40 or $50, give a feast, and then be -admitted with great ceremony. Mr. Frazer informed me that he was once -in the lodge with some young men who did not belong to the club; when -one of the dancers came in they immediately threw their blankets over -him, and forced him out of the lodge; he laughed, but the young -Indians called him a fool, and said "he did not know what the dancer -might blow into his body." - -I returned to my boat; sent for the chief and presented him with two -carrots of tobacco, four knives, half a pound of vermilion, and one -quart of salt. Mr. Frazer asked liberty to present them some rum; we -made them up a keg between us, of eight gallons--two gallons of whisky -[the rest water]. Mr. Frazer informed the chief that he dare not give -them any without my permission. The chief thanked me for all my -presents, and said "they must come free, as he did not ask for them." -I replied that "to those who did not ask for anything, I gave freely; -but to those who asked for much, I gave only a little or none." - -We embarked about half-past three o'clock; came three miles, and -encamped on the W. side.[I-52] Mr. Frazer we left behind, but he came up -with his two peroques about dusk. It commenced raining very hard. In -the night a peroque arrived from the lodges at his camp. During our -stay at their camp, there were soldiers appointed to keep the crowd -from my boats, who executed their duty with vigilance and rigor, -driving men, women, and children back, whenever they came near my -boats. At my departure, their soldiers said, "As I had shaken hands -with their chief, they must shake hands with my soldiers." In which -request I willingly indulged them. - -_Sept. 11th._ Embarked at seven o'clock, although raining. Mr. -Frazer's canoes also came on until nine o'clock. Stopped for -breakfast and made a fire. Mr. Frazer stayed with me; finding his -peroques not quite able to keep up, he dispatched them. We embarked; -came on until near six o'clock, and encamped on the W. side. Saw -nothing of his peroques after they left us. Supposed to have come 16 -miles this day.[I-53] Rain and cold winds, all day ahead. The river has -never been clear of islands since I left Prairie Des Chein. I -absolutely believe it to be here two miles wide. Hills, or rather -prairie knobs, on both sides. - -_Sept. 12th._ It raining very hard in the morning, we did not embark -until ten o'clock, Mr. Frazer's peroques then coming up. It was still -raining, and was very cold; passed the Racine[I-54] river; also a -prairie called Le Cross [La Crosse], from a game of ball played -frequently on it by the Sioux Indians. This prairie is very handsome; -it has a small square hill, similar to some mentioned by Carver. It is -bounded in the rear by hills similar to [those of] the Prairie Des -Chein. - -On this prairie Mr. Frazer showed me some holes dug by the Sioux, when -in expectation of an attack, into which they first put their women and -children, and then crawl themselves. They were generally round and -about 10 feet in diameter; but some were half-moons and quite a -breastwork. This I understood was the chief work, which was the -principal redoubt. Their modes of constructing them are: the moment -they apprehend or discover an enemy on the prairie, they commence -digging with their knives, tomahawks, and a wooden ladle; and in an -incredibly short space of time they have a hole sufficiently deep to -cover themselves and their families from the balls or arrows of the -enemy. They [enemies] have no idea of taking those subterraneous -redoubts by storm, as they would probably lose a great number of men -in the attack; and although they might be successful in the event, it -would be considered a very imprudent action. - -Mr. Frazer, finding his canoes not able to keep up, stayed at this -prairie to organize one of them, intending then to overtake us. Came -on three miles further.[I-55] - -_Sept. 13th._ Embarked at six o'clock. Came on to a sand-bar, and -stopped to dry my things. At this place Mr. Frazer overtook me. We -remained here three hours; came on to the foot of the hills, at le -Montaigne qui Trompe a l'Eau [_sic_], which is a hill situated on the -river. Rain all day, except about two hours at noon. Passed Black -river. Distance 21 miles.[I-56] - -_Sept. 14th._ Embarked early; the fog so thick we could not -distinguish objects 20 yards. When we breakfasted we saw nothing of -Mr. Frazer's canoes. After breakfast, at the head of an island, met -Frazer's boats. Wind coming on fair, we hoisted sail, and found that -we were more on an equality with our sails than our oars. The birch -canoes sailed very well, but we were able to outrow them. Met the -remainder of the war-party of the Sacs and Reynards before noted, -returning from their expedition against the Sauteurs. I directed my -interpreter to ask "How many scalps they had taken?" They replied, -"None." He added, "They were all squaws"; for which I reprimanded him. -Passed the mountain which stands in the river; or, as the French term -it, which soaks in the river. Came to the Prairie Le Aisle -[_sic_[I-57]], on the west. - -Mr. Frazer, Bradley, Sparks, and myself, went out to hunt. We crossed -first a dry flat prairie; when we arrived at the hills we ascended -them, from which we had a most sublime and beautiful prospect. On the -right, we saw the mountains which we passed in the morning and the -prairie in their rear; like distant clouds, the mountains at the -Prairie Le Cross; on our left and under our feet, the valley between -the two barren hills through which the Mississippi wound itself by -numerous channels, forming many beautiful islands, as far as the eye -could embrace the scene; and our four boats under full sail, their -flags streaming before the wind. It was altogether a prospect so -variegated and romantic that a man may scarcely expect to enjoy such a -one but twice or thrice in the course of his life. I proposed keeping -the hills until they led to the river, encamping and waiting the next -day for our boats; but Mr. Frazer's anxiety to get to the boats -induced me to yield. After crossing a very thick bottom, fording and -swimming three branches of the river, and crossing several morasses, -we at twelve o'clock arrived opposite our boats, which were encamped -on the east side. We were brought over. Saw great sign of elk, but had -not the good fortune to come across any of them. My men saw three on -the shore. Distance 21 miles.[I-58] - -_Sunday, Sept. 15th._ Embarked early. Passed the riviere Embarrass -[Zumbro river], and Lean Clare [_i. e._, l'Eau Claire; Clear, White -Water, or Minneiska river], on the W., which is navigable 135 miles. -Encamped opposite the river Le Boeuf [Beef or Buffalo river], on the -W. shore.[I-59] At the head of this river the Chipeways inhabit, and -it is navigable for peroques 40 or 50 leagues. Rained in the -afternoon. Mr. Frazer broke one of his canoes. Came about three miles -further than him. Distance 25 miles. - -_Sept. 16th._ Embarked late, as I wished Mr. Frazer to overtake me, -but came on very well. His canoes overtook us at dinner, at the grand -encampment [71/2 miles[I-60]] below Lake Pepin. We made the sandy -peninsula on the east at the entrance of Lake Pepin, by dusk; passed -the Sauteaux [Chippewa[I-61]] river on the east, at the entrance of the -lake. After supper, the wind being fair, we put off with the -intention to sail across; my interpreter, Rosseau, telling me that he -had passed the lake twenty times, but never once in the day; giving as -a reason that the wind frequently rose and detained them by day in the -lake. But I believe the traders' true reason generally is their fears -of the Sauteurs, as these have made several strokes of war at the -mouth of this river, never distinguishing between the Sioux and their -traders. However, the wind serving, I was induced to go on; and -accordingly we sailed, my boat bringing up the rear, for I had put the -sail of my big boat on my batteau, and a mast of 22 feet. Mr. Frazer -embarked on my boat. At first the breeze was very gentle, and we -sailed with our violins and other music playing; but the sky afterward -became cloudy and quite a gale arose. My boat plowed the swells, -sometimes almost bow under. When we came to the Traverse -[crossing-place], which is opposite Point De Sable [Sandy point], we -thought it most advisable, the lake being very much disturbed and the -gale increasing, to take harbor in a bay on the east. One of the -canoes and my boat came in very well together; but having made a fire -on the point to give notice to our boats in the rear, they both ran on -the bar before they doubled it, and were near foundering; but by -jumping into the lake we brought them into a safe harbor. Distance 40 -miles.[I-62] - -_Sept. 17th._ Although there was every appearance of a very severe -storm, we embarked at half-past six o'clock, the wind fair; but before -we had hoisted all sail, those in front had struck theirs. The wind -came on hard ahead. The sky became inflamed, and the lightning seemed -to roll down the sides of the hills which bordered the shore of the -lake. The storm in all its grandeur, majesty, and horror burst upon -us in the Traverse, while making for Point De Sable; and it required -no moderate exertion to weather the point and get to the windward side -of it. Distance three miles.[I-63] - -There we found Mr. Cameron,[I-64] who had sailed from the prairie -[Prairie du Chien] on the 5th; he had three bark canoes and a wooden -one with him. He had been lying here two days, his canoes unloaded and -turned up for the habitation of his men, his tents pitched, and -himself living in all the ease of an Indian trader. He appeared to be -a man of tolerable information, but rather indolent in his habits; a -Scotchman by birth, but an Englishman by prejudice. He had with him a -very handsome young man, by the name of John Rudsdell, and also his -own son, a lad of fifteen. - -The storm continuing, we remained all day. I was shown a point of -rocks [Maiden Rock, 400 feet high[I-65]] from which a Sioux maiden -cast herself, and was dashed into a thousand pieces on the rocks -below. She had been informed that her friends intended matching her to -a man she despised; having been refused the man she had chosen, she -ascended the hill, singing her death-song; and before they could -overtake her and obviate her purpose she took the lover's leap! Thus -ended her troubles with her life. A wonderful display of sentiment in -a savage! - -_Sept. 18th._ Embarked after breakfast. Mr. Cameron, with his boats, -came on with me. Crossed the lake, sounded it, and took an observation -at the upper end. I embarked in one of his canoes, and we came up to -Canoe river,[I-66] where there was a small band of Sioux under the -command of Red Wing, the second war chief in the nation. He made me a -speech and presented a pipe, pouch, and buffalo skin. He appeared to -be a man of sense, and promised to accompany me to St. Peters [the -Minnesota river]; he saluted me, and had it returned. I made him a -small present.[I-67] - -We encamped on the end of the island, and although it was not more -than eleven o'clock, were obliged to stay all night. Distance 18 -miles.[I-68] - -_Sept. 19th._ Embarked early; dined at St. Croix[I-69] river. Messrs. -Frazer and Cameron having some business to do with the savages, we -left them at the encampment; but they promised to overtake me, though -they should be obliged to travel until twelve o'clock at night. Fired -a blunderbuss for them at Tattoo. The chain of my watch became -unhooked, by lending her to my guard; this was a very serious -misfortune.[I-70] - -_Sept. 20th._ Embarked after sunrise. Cloudy, with hard head winds; a -small shower of rain; cleared up in the afternoon, and became -pleasant. Encamped on a prairie on the east side, on which is a large -painted stone, about eight miles below the Sioux village. The traders -had not yet overtaken me. Distance 261/2 miles.[I-71] - -_Sept. 21st._ Embarked at a seasonable hour; breakfasted at the Sioux -village on the east side [near St. Paul,[I-72] capital of Minnesota]. -It consists of 11 lodges, and is situated at the head of an island -just below a ledge of rocks [Dayton bluff, in the city]. The village -was evacuated at this time, all the Indians having gone out to the -lands to gather fols avoin [folle avoine, wild rice: see note 44, -page 39]. About two miles above, saw three bears swimming over the -river, but at too great a distance for us to have killed them; they -made the shore before I could come up with them. Passed a camp of -Sioux, of four lodges, in which I saw only one man, whose name was -Black Soldier. The garrulity of the women astonished me, for at the -other camps they never opened their lips; but here they flocked around -us with all their tongues going at the same time. The cause of this -freedom must have been the absence of their lords and masters. Passed -the encampment of Mr. Ferrebault [Faribault[I-73]], who had broken his -peroque and had encamped on the west side of the river, about three -miles below St. Peters [under the bluff below Mendota]. We made our -encampment on the N. E. point of the big [Pike's] island opposite -[Fort Snelling or] St. Peters.[I-74] Distance 24 miles. - -The Mississippi became so very narrow this day, that I once crossed -in my batteaux with forty strokes of my oars. The water of the -Mississippi, since we passed Lake Pepin, has been remarkably red; and -where it is deep, appears as black as ink. The waters of the St. -Croix and St. Peters appear blue and clear, for a considerable -distance below their confluence. - -I observed a white flag on shore to-day, and on landing, discovered -it to be white silk; it was suspended over a scaffold, on which were -laid four dead bodies, two inclosed in boards, and two in bark. They -were wrapped up in blankets, which appeared to be quite new. They were -the bodies, I was informed, of two Sioux women who had lived with two -Frenchmen, one of their children, and some other relative; two of whom -died at St. Peters and two at St. Croix, but were brought here to be -deposited upon this scaffold together. This is the manner of Sioux -burial when persons die a natural death; but when they are killed they -suffer them to lie unburied. This circumstance brought to my -recollection the bones of a man I found on the hills below the St. -Croix; the jaw bone I brought on board. He must have been killed on -that spot. - -FOOTNOTES: - -[I-1] Roster of the party: 1. Lieutenant Z. M. Pike, 1st lieut. 1st -regt. U. S. Infantry, comdg.--2. Non-comm. officers: (1) Sergeant -Henry Kennerman; (2) Corporal Samuel Bradley; (3) Corporal William E. -Meek.--3. Privates: (1) John Boley; (2) Peter Branden; (3) John Brown; -(4) Jacob Carter; (5) Thomas Dougherty; (6) William Gorden; (7) -Solomon Huddleston; (8) Jeremiah Jackson; (9) Hugh Menaugh; (10) -Theodore Miller; (11) John Mountjoy; (12) David Owings; (13) Alexander -Roy; (14) Patrick Smith; (15) John Sparks; (16) Freegift Stoute; (17) -David Whelply. This detail for detached service was made July 1st, -1805; returned Apr. 30th, 1806, without change, excepting Bradley -promoted, _vice_ Kennerman reduced to the ranks. Voyage of the 9th was -between St. Louis Co., Mo., and Madison Co., Ill., past Caberet's isl. -to camp on Illinois side at head of Chouteau's isl. - -The above roster of the Mississippi Expedition is derived from the -Return of Persons, etc., which formed a part of one of the Papers -accompanying a Congressional Committee Report which was given as No. -6, pp. 64-68 of the Appendix to Part 3 of the orig. ed. of this work. -It appears in full, in its proper connection, at or near the end of -the main text of the present edition. - -The letter of instructions from General Wilkinson, dated St. Louis, -July 30th, 1805, in obedience to which Lieutenant Pike proceeded upon -the Mississippi Expedition, likewise formed one of the Papers -accompanying the same Congressional Committee Report. It was given -nowhere else in the orig. ed. of this book; though the corresponding -instructions Pike received for his second (Arkansaw) Expedition were -prefixed to the main text of his narrative. The Mississippi order -appears in full, in its original position, near the end of the main -text of the present edition. - -[I-2] Or Du Bois r., Madison Co., Ill., notable in history as that at -whose mouth Lewis and Clark had their winter camp of 1803-4, whence -their expedition started May 14th, 1804. At this date it was said to -be opp. the mouth of the Missouri; it is now opp. the large Mobile -isl. and the Missouri enters 2 m. below Wood r., through the Amazon -bend. - -[I-3] In undertaking to follow a traveler, the first thing to ascertain -is his "personal equation"--_i. e._, the probable error of his -mileages. Pike traveled entirely by his watch, and all his distances -are guesses based upon rate of progress--so many hours, so many miles. -The way to approximate accuracy in this matter is to take him between -two fixed points whose actual distance apart is ascertained, see what -he makes of this, and adjust him accordingly. From St. Louis to -Keokuk, by the present usual steamboat channel of the Miss. r., is -2021/4 m.; say to the foot of Des Moines rapids, roundly 200 m. Pike's -figures, as nearly as these can be got at, make this distance about -250 m. Hence we must discount his mileages 20 per cent., or one-fifth, -as a rule. Taking one thing with another--changes in the channel in -the course of the century, good or bad water, Pike's own feelings, -errors of manuscript or print, etc., we shall find this deduction to -work well; with the aid of such topographical data as we have, it will -enable us to set most of his camps pretty closely. On the 10th, Pike -gets left to bivouac on the bank at a point in Jersey Co., Ill., -opposite Portage des Sioux, Mo., his barge being storm-bound somewhere -above Alton, Ill., perhaps in the vicinity of Clifton or Randolph. The -distance between Alton, first notable point above the Mo. r., and -Grafton, last notable point below the Illinois r., is 16 m. Besides -Alton and Clifton, places passed on the N. side are Shields' branch, -Hop Hollow, Falling Rock cr., and Piasa cr.--some of the present isls. -above Mobile isl. are Maple, Ellis, Search's, Piasa, and Eagle's -Nest--the latter off Portage des Sioux. - -[I-4] Portage des Sioux (or de Sioux) is that place in St. Charles Co., -Mo., where the Mo. r. comes nearest to the Miss. r. before their -confluence. It was the site of an early settlement on the S. bank of -the Miss. r., one Francois Saucier having first built on the spot, -1769 or 1770; the village was already there in Pike's time, and still -perpetuates the old F. name of the hostile Sioux's crossing-place -(_ca._ 1780) between the two great rivers, also called Sioux Portage -or Portage of the Sioux: see Beck's Gaz.; or Wetmore's, p. 254. - -[I-5] First great tributary of the Miss. r. above the Mo. r., falling -in at Calhoun pt., Calhoun Co., Ill., opp. Camden, Jersey Co., Ill.; -Mason's isl. the largest one of several more in the Miss. r. just -below the mouth of the Ill. r. In coming S. the Miss. r. makes a great -bend E. and then nearly N. to the confluence, whence it turns again to -a course approx. coincident with that which the Ill. r. holds; hence -Pike's remark that the one might be mistaken for a part of the other. -The river has had many names; the present is in form a French plural, -_sc._ Riviere des Illinois, _sc._ of the people who lived on -it--Illin, Illini, Illinoct, Illinoac, Illinoet, Illiniwek, Illeni, -Illenois, Ilinois, Islinois, Islenois, etc. Pike's map has Illenois; -Franquelin's, 1688, R. des Ilinois. Another aboriginal name, Theakiki, -Teakiki, etc., whence Kankakee, was applied to one of the branches of -this river. The Ill. r. sometimes shared the name St. Louis with the -Mississippi and the Ohio. It was called R. de Seignelay by Hennepin, -in compliment to the marquis of that name; and once known as the -Divine r. The importance of this river as a water-way from the Great -Lakes to the Mississippi is second only to that of the Wisconsin, and -would be first if the long projected connection of St. Louis with -Chicago by water were made. The use of these two rivers for this -purpose was originally almost simultaneous; for Joliet and Marquette -reached the Miss. r. from Green bay by the Wisc. r. June 15th or 17th, -1673, came down the Miss. r. past the mouth of the Ill. r. in July -that year, continued down to or near the Arkansaw, turned up the Miss. -r. July 17th, reached the Ill. r., and went up the latter to L. -Michigan, Aug.-Sept., 1673. One of Joliet's maps, 1674, clearly shows -the Wis. r. and Ill. r. connections of the Miss. r. with L. Michigan -and Green bay respectively. Michael Accault's party, consisting of -himself, Antoine Auguelle, and L. Hennepin, dispatched by La Salle -from Fort Crevecoeur on the Ill. r., Feb. 29th, 1680, reached its -mouth Mar. 7th, 1680; La Salle did the same himself Feb. 6th, 1682. -The latter--one of the very greatest men in the early history of -American discovery and exploration--came upon the Ill. r. in Dec., -1679, and made the first French establishment on Lower Mississippian -waters in Jan., 1680, at the Illinois village Pimetoui, close to -present Peoria. - -[I-6] Among the islands (or their modern representatives) past which -Pike struggled may be named Perry, Squaw, Enterprise, and Iowa; the -present channel is W. of all these excepting Squaw, taking through -Hatchet chute to Rock ldg. and Milan, Calhoun Co., Ill. That island -whose foot is now nearest 6 m. from the Illinois r. is Dardenne; but -camp was more probably a mile short of this, where is now Bolter's -isl., as it is called--properly Boulder's. - -[I-7] About 21 m., Bolter's isl. to the Four Brothers, at Cap au Gres. -The present run of the principal islands is: Dardenne, Two Branch, -Criminal, Peruque, Sweden, all below the mouth of Buffalo, Copper or -Cuivre r. Dardenne cr. falls in on the left hand going up, right bank, -opp. the island of that name; it appears as Dardonne on Owen's map. -Peruque cr. occupies a corresponding position opp. Peruque and Sweden -isls.; Nicollet's map has Perruque. R. au Cuivre or aux Boeufs of -the French, Copper and Buffalo r. of others ("Quiver" r. of Lewis and -Clark's map, 1814), is a large stream which courses from Montgomery -into Lincoln Co., Mo., and then, with its Big cr. branch, separates -the latter from St. Charles Co.; it falls into Cuivre slough, which -cuts off Cuivre isl., 3 m. long. At the upper end of this slough is -the mouth of the creek mapped by Nicollet as M^cLean's, now as Bob, -Bobb, Bobs, Bobbs, etc., cr. Some of the named places along the river -are Brock's, Dixon's, Fruitland, Thomason's, Beck's, Two Branch, -Martin's, Hastings, Beech's, and Bogtown--all insignificant, mostly -mere landings, and all in Calhoun Co., Ill., excepting Beck's. Pike's -Four Brothers are represented by islands Nos. 499, 500, 501, and 502, -of late surveys, not now abreast; all are small, and the largest one -is called Sarah Ann. Pike's "beautiful cedar cliff" is Cap au Gres -rock, opposite a hamlet of the same name in Lincoln Co., Mo.; Dogtown, -Ill., is under the cliff. The phrase is commonly rendered Cap au Gre -or Cap au Gris, by mistaking F. gres, a noun, meaning sandstone, for -F. _gris_, adj., gray. Long of 1817, as pub. 1860 and again 1890, has -a Little Cape Gris; Beltrami, II. p. 196, renders Great Cape Gray. The -exact distance to this place from Grafton is 27 m.; from Alton, 43 m.; -from St. Louis 66 m. - -[I-8] Cap au Gres to Hamburg, Calhoun Co., Ill., 22 m.; river crooked, -and channel still more so; late start and much obstruction; Pike may -hardly have reached Hamburg, but was in that vicinity, and we may set -him there, in the absence of any datum for greater precision. The -"vast" number of islands he passed have their modern representatives -in such as: Sandy, 21/2 m. long, with Turner's near it; Stag and Maple, -abreast; Sterling; Westport, 31/2 m. long, with Kickapoo and Kelly's -alongside it. Along this whole way, on the left hand going up, in -Lincoln Co., Mo., runs a long slough approx. parallel with the river. -This is the discharge of Bryant's cr., which approaches the river opp. -Hamburg, gets from the hills and runs in the bottom down to Sandy -isl.; it is called Bayou au Roi on some maps, Bayou Roy on others. -Nicollet charts it with his usual accuracy, but without name. The -principal places passed are the villages of Sterling and Westport, -Lincoln Co., Mo.; Gilead, back up on the hill, in Calhoun Co., Ill.; -lesser ones are the landings, wood-piles, or what-not, called Asbury, -Turner's, Hogtown, and Red's. The St. L., Keok. and N. W. R. R. runs -in the bottom along the bayou; stations Foley, Apex, Elsberry, and -Dameron. - -[I-9] _Polyodon spatula_, or _Spatularia spatula_, the paddlefish, also -called spoon-billed cat or duck-billed cat, common in Mississippian -waters. It sometimes attains a length of 5 or 6 feet; the shape -resembles that of the sturgeon, but the skin is scaleless, like a -cat's. One of the Relations ascribed to Hennepin, and pub. 1697, -speaks of this fish as the "long-beaked sturgeon," and says it was -spawning Apr. 24th. Hennepin doubtless became acquainted with it when -he was first on the Mississippi, under Accault, in 1680: see, _e. g._, -Shea's Tr. of Henp., 1880, p. 359. - -[I-10] Doubtless one of the brothers mentioned in Lewis and Clark: see -ed. 1893, pp. 1209, 1236, 1243. - -[I-11] From Hamburg to Clarksville is 141/2 m., Louisiana or -Louisianaville, 241/2; Pike went about 20, say to Krider's bend, and his -camp was on an island which we may take to be that now called -Krider's, 6 m. above Clarksville, 4 m. below Louisiana. The -"continuation of islands" is now the following in ascending series, -omitting about a dozen small ones; Mosier's or Mozier's, and Howard's, -together, the former 13/4 m. long; Tilden's; McCoy's or Cock; Slim and -Grimes, the former 31/4 m. long; Coon, 1 m.; Carroll's or Carle's, 13/4; -Amaranth, small; Eagle, 1 m.; Clarksville, 2 m., opposite the town; -Pharr's, 13/4 m.; and Krider's, 1 m. Above Mosier's isl. and ldg., on -the E., is the outlet of Hamburg bay, 31/2 m. above the town; Bay cr. -falls into it. Behind Slim isl. is the chute of that name, into which -falls the large creek called Guin's, Guinn's, Gwin's, etc.; and at the -head of the island is the mouth of Ramsey's cr., another large one. -These streams are both in Pike Co., Mo.; and as soon as Pike passes -opposite Clarksville he has Pike Co., Ill., on his right, so that he -sails many miles with a county of his own on each side. Clarksville, -Mo., is something of a town, on the edge of the river, under the hill -around which Calumet cr. comes to fall in just above; and 3 m. higher -comes Little Calumet cr. on the same side. Opposite Clarksville is the -lower opening of that immense slough whose character is not less -remarkable than its name. This runs for more than 30 m. alongside the -river, clear through Pike Co., Ill., and into Adams Co., forming a -maze of channels which intersect one another and thus cut off various -islands, besides opening into the Mississippi at several places; some -of these lesser sloughs are called Spring Lake, Atlas, Cocklebur, -Swift, Coon, Mud, Five Points, Crooked, Running, and Swan. This -collateral water-course also receives a series of creeks, among which -are those called Big or Big Stew, Six Mile, Honey or Hadley, Ashton or -Fall, and Harkness. This whole affair is commonly called the Snicarty -or Sny Carte; it is Suycartee Slough on Owen's map, and has other -variants too numerous to recount. All these words or phrases are -perversions of F. Chenal Ecarte, lit. cut-off channel. For this and -the corresponding formation of the name Sniabar or Snibar, given to a -creek and town in Missouri, see my note, N. Y. Nation, Jan. 19th, -1893, and Lewis and Clark, ed. 1893, p. 29. The embankment built to -defend the river from the slough is known as the Sny levee. - -[I-12] About 20 m., setting Pike in the vicinity of Cincinnati, Pike -Co., Ill.; camp perhaps a little beyond this town, but just about -opposite the boundary between Pike Co., Mo., and Ralls Co., Mo. On the -Illinois side we have nothing worthy of note but the snaky Snicarty, -back of which are the villages Atlas and Rockport. But the Missouri -side offers some interesting things. On decamping from Krider's isl., -Pike passes in quick succession two creeks, Louisiana and Salt river, -all on his left, all within 6 m. 1. Pike elsewhere cites both these -creeks, and says the first of them is the one he calls Bar r.; this is -now Buffalo cr., falling in 2 m. below Louisiana; the bar at its -mouth, whence the name, is present Buffalo isl. 2. The next creek is -that immediately above, whose mouth is Louisiana; this is called Noir -cr. on most of the maps before me, but Bear cr. on the latest G. L. O. -map; which name the natives prefer I am not informed. 3. Louisiana is -quite a town, which dates back to Nicollet's time, at least, as he -marks it on the beautiful map he made before 1840. The Chic. and Alton -R. R. bridges the river at the mouth of Noir or Bear cr. This was -built 1872-73 (Act of Congr., Mar. 3d, 1871); the town or station Pike -is on the Illinois side, opp. Louisiana. The C. B. and Q. R. R. sends -a branch here; the St. L., Keok. and N. W. R. R. also runs through -Louisiana. 4. Next is Salt r., which Pike elsewhere calls Oahahah, and -others Auhaha, 2 m. above Louisiana. This seems to have been known -long before the time Pike's remark would suggest; if I mistake not, it -is laid down on some maps before 1700. It is a large river; the French -were along here in 1680-90, and I can put my finger on an old F. -Riviere au Sel. Salt r., with its branches, is big enough to water -five or six modern counties, before it falls in through Pike Co. -Present islands in Pike's course of to-day, from Salt r. upward, are -Angle, South, and North Fritz between Hickory chute and Scott's ldg., -Atlas, Blackbird, and Denmark, between a couple of Snicarty openings -and Mundy's ldg. or Ashburn sta.; then the very large Gilbert's isl., -21/2 m. long, which lies between Gilbert's and Tompkins' ldg. on the -Missouri side, and Cincinnati ldg. on the other. A good deal of -engineering work was done at this bad place to close Gilbert's chute -and throw the main channel over against the Illinois side. - -[I-13] Cincinnati Landing, Pike Co., Ill., to Hannibal, Marion Co., Mo., -12 m. direct, and not much more by river, as its course is quite -straight. The Frenchman's house, 4 m. beyond which Pike went to camp, -was a germ of Hannibal, sown under the handsome hill, just above a -little run which Nicollet and Owen both map as Bear cr., opposite -Hurricane isl. This place is mapped by Pike as Hurricane Settlement; -he speaks of it again under date of Apr. 26th, 1806. It is now a -notable railroad center; the Wabash R. R. built the bridge in 1871 -(Act of Congr., July 25th, 1866). On the Illinois side there was a -place called Douglasville, which seems to have been a forerunner of -the town or station Shepherd; while Hannibal itself has also the St. -L., Keok. and N. W. R. R. skirting the Miss. r., the Hann. and St. -Jo., the St. L. and Hann., and the Mo., Kas. and Tex. To reach this -then French embryo, Pike proceeded with present Pike Co., Ill., on his -right the whole way, but with Ralls Co. on his left, to past Saverton -in the latter county, and so on to Marion Co., Mo. He passed the -positions of the islands now called Taylor's, Cottel's, King's, and -Glasscock's; and after he had interviewed the Frenchman he went on -past the present position of the mouth of Bayou St. Charles, off which -are Turtle, Glaucus, and other islands, to camp in Marion Co., Mo., -about where the present boundary between Pike and Adams cos., Ill., -strikes the river--that is to say, opposite Armstrong isl., near the -beginning of the Snicarty. The St. Charles or Charles is old in -history; I have seen the name ascribed to Hennepin, 1680, but have not -myself so found it. Pike's Hurricane isl. is probably not now -determinable, if existent, unless he means a large tract of -bottom-land opposite Hannibal, isolated by the Snicarty. Glasscock's -isl. is now or was lately the only well-founded island on the river -near the mouth of Bear cr. It is said in Holcombe's Hist. Marion Co., -1884, p. 902, that an island opposite the mouth of Bear cr. -disappeared in 1849. Judge Thos. W. Bacon, who came to Hannibal in -1847, informs me _in lit._ Mar. 21st, 1894, that he remembers no such -island; "there was a sand-bar visible at low water just above the -mouth of Bear cr., and it disappeared long ago, but no such fugitive -formation could properly be termed an island. Along the N. front of -the site of Hannibal was once an incipient island--a sand-bar with -growing willows extending from the N. end almost to the mainland. This -gradually disappeared except at the lower end, where it prolonged and -merged into a granite gravel bed or bar visible at low water, which -was dredged away by the government." Pike is probably mistaken in -using the name Hurricane in the present connection. There were a -Hurricane ldg., isl., and cr. lower down, in Lincoln Co.; but Judge -Bacon informs me he never heard the name applied to Hannibal. Nor is -it true that this town was ever called Stavely's ldg., except as a -piece of fugitive sarcasm in the newspapers of a rival town, arising -in the habit of one John W. Stavely, a saddler of Hannibal, who used -to haunt the landing when steamers arrived. It could not well have -been first known as a "landing," because the first steamer to arrive -there, the Gen. Putnam, Moses D. Bates, master, came in 1825, while -Hannibal was platted in 1819 by its present name, shortly after Pike -Co. was organized (Dec. 14th, 1818). The classical term is said to be -traceable to Antoine Soulard, surveyor-general, who is also said to -have named Fabius r. for the great Roman cunctator. But this is -dubious; old forms Fabas and Fabbas suggest Sp. _fabas_ beans. Bay St. -Charles was called Scipio r., as attested by the hamlet of Port Scipio -at its mouth. - -[I-14] This stretch of "39" m. needs to be warily discussed. The whole -distance from Hannibal to Keokuk by the river channel is only 61 m. Pike -makes it from his camp of the 16th to that of the 19th 39 + 23 + 4 = 76 -m.; he also started from a little above Hannibal on the 17th, and did -not quite make Keokuk on the 19th; for he only got to the foot of the -Des Moines rapids after breakfast on the 20th. The whole way would -have been about 80 of his miles against say 60 of actual travel, or -the proportion of 4:3, as already noted, p. 2; and we may confidently -set him down on the 17th halfway between Hannibal and Keokuk. Now from -Hannibal to La Grange is 30 m. and from La Grange to Keokuk is 31 m.; -La Grange, Lewis Co., Mo., at the mouth of Wyaconda r., is the -required location of camp of the 17th. This is 10 m. above Quincy, the -seat of Adams Co., Ill., one of the best known cities on the river, -though not as old as some of them. The C. B. and Q. R. R. bridged the -river just above the city in 1867-68; a West Quincy grew up on the -Missouri side, and the present importance of the place requires no -comment. A very short distance above Quincy Pike passes from Marion -into Lewis Co., Mo. But the most important point of this day's voyage -is one to which the above text does not even allude. Pike elsewhere -speaks of a certain Jaustioni river, as the then boundary between the -U. S. and the Sac nation, 7 m. above the Frenchman's house at -Hurricane Settlement, on the W. side; and he traces this river on his -map by the name Jauflione. Now there are five large streams which -enter the Miss. r. on the W. within 3 m. of one another, by four -separate mouths, in Marion Co., say 2 to 5 miles below W. Quincy, and -the proportionate distance above Hannibal. They are now known as (1) -South Two Rivers; (2) North Two Rivers; (3) a branch of the -latter--these three emptying practically together, just below Fabius -isl.; (4) South Fabius; and (5) North Fabius rivers, which fall into a -slough whose two mouths are opposite Orton's isl. Pike has left us no -data to decide which of these he means by Jaustioni or Jauflione, -especially as the positions of the several outlets have no doubt -changed since 1805. They are all at present, or were very recently, -considerably more than the "seven" miles above Hannibal, being -entirely beyond the Bayou St. Charles, itself about 7 m. long. Pike's -queer names, Justioni or Jaustioni, and Jauflione (latter in early -text, 1807, p. 4, and on map), are found also as Jeffreon, and usually -as Jeffrion. Some form of the name, the meaning of which I have never -learned, endured for many years; thus Jauflione r. appears in Morse's -Univ. Gaz., 3d ed. 1821, p. 350, though it had mostly disappeared from -ordinary maps of about that date. The river thus designated has a -history which will bear looking up. Judge Thos. H. Bacon of Hannibal -refers me to certain documents bearing on French Colonial history to -be found in Amer. State Papers, VI. 1860, pp. 713-14, and 830-34, also -repub. in Holcombe's Hist. Marion Co., 1884. On p. 834 is: "July 10th, -1810. Board met. Present John B. C. Lucas, Clement B. Penrose, and -Frederick Bates, Commissioners. Charles Gratiot, assignee of Mathurin -Bouvet, claiming 84 arpents of land front on the Mississippi river and -in depth from the river back to the hills in the district of St. -Charles.... The Board order that this claim be surveyed, provided that -it be not situated above the mouth of the River Jeffrion conformably -to the possession of Mathurin Bouvet," etc. As Bouvet's claim was -ultimately confirmed to Gratiot, Jeffrion r. must have been above Salt -r. The next considerable river above Salt r. is that one of the "Two -Rivers" called South r.; but this is hardly 30 m. long, and an Act of -Dec. 31st, 1813, describes Jeffrion r. as over 30 m. long. The next -one is North Two Rivers; undoubtedly it is this one which was known as -the Jeffrion in Territorial days. When the region was first settled it -was called the Two Rivers country, and the title of a certain Two -Rivers Baptist Association preserves this designation. The Governor of -Louisiana Territory was required to divide it into districts (Act of -Congr., Mar. 26th, 1804, sec. 13); Holcombe's Hist. Marion Co., p. 37, -says that Governor Wm. Clark by proclamation reorganized the districts -into counties Oct. 1st, 1812; and doubtless the Jeffrion would be -there again in mention. Bouvet's settlement on Bay Charles is -unquestionable in location; it was described as about 34 leagues above -St. Louis, and was a place with which the commissioners must have been -officially acquainted. In history B. Charles is nearly a century older -than St. Louis, and it was for many years a better known locality. -Present North r. is the only one that answers the historical and -geographical requirements of the north one of Two Rivers of early -Territorial times and of the Jeffrion r. of French Colonial days. -Holcombe, p. 148, gives an account of Kentucky prospectors on the -Jeffrion in 1817. The name of the Sac chief Black Hawk occurs in -connection with an incident on Two Rivers in 1812. But the most -satisfactory and in fact a conclusive identification of North Two -Rivers with the Jauflione is derivable from the terms of our treaty -with the Sacs and Foxes of 1804. This will be found in Statutes at -Large, VII. p. 84, _seq._: A Treaty between the United States of -America and the United Tribes of Sac and Fox Indians, made Nov. 3d, -1804, ratified Jan. 25th, 1805, and proclaimed Feb. 21st, 1805. Among -the "articles of a treaty made at St. Louis in the district of -Louisiana between William Henry Harrison, governor of the Indiana -territory and of the district of Louisiana [etc., etc.] of the one -part, and the chiefs and head men of the united Sac and Fox tribes of -the other part," there is one defining the boundary thus: "ARTICLE 2. -The general boundary or line between the lands of the United States -and of the said Indian tribes shall be as follows, to wit: Beginning -at a point on the Missouri river opposite to the mouth of the -Gasconade river; thence in a direct course so as to strike the river -Jeffreon at the distance of thirty miles from its mouth, and down the -said Jeffreon to the Mississippi," etc., etc. In company with Mr. -Robert F. Thompson of the Bureau of Indian Affairs at Washington I -made a special examination of maps in his office with reference to -this point, and among them found one, prepared for office use in -determining boundaries indicated in the terms of Indian treaties, on -which the boundary in mention had been drawn from the Missouri -opposite the mouth of the Gasconade directly to a point supposed to be -30 m. up the _North_ Two Rivers, which I had on other grounds -determined the Jauflione or Jeffreon to be. This river empties in -Fabius township, in the N. W. 1/4 of Sect. 3, T. 58 N., R. 5 W., -Marion Co., Mo. - -On this extraordinary cession see a note by L. C. D[raper] in Minn. -Hist. Coll., III. Part 2, p. 143, 1874. - -At the upper end of St. Charles bayou, called Bayou chute, a couple of -miles below Two Rivers, was the site of a place that rejoiced on paper -in the name of Marion City. They started a railroad there, were liable -to wash-outs, and inspired Charles Dickens' idea of his quizzical -"Eden." If one would like to see how uncounted "cities" were laid out -in gaudy prints--some consisting in a hovel or two, some without even -that--let him look over Featherstonhaugh's diverting relations of the -'30's, when he traveled in these parts, then overrun with a set of the -neediest, greediest, and most unscrupulous landsharks that ever lived -on calomel, whisky, and the gullibility of their fellows. Marion City -is located on one of the maps before me, but not on any of the others. -A little above it are Fabius and Orton isls., already mentioned, and -opposite these is Ward's isl., larger than either of the other two. A -couple of miles above Quincy begins the group of Cottonwood isls., -opposite a large horseshoe-shaped slough which seems to be an old -cut-off of the river; it is connected with the Fabius r. outlets, and -receives Durgan's (_i. e._, Durkee's) cr. At Quincy is the lower -outlet of a very extensive snicarty, 12 or 15 m. direct, and much more -by its sinuosities; this begins at Canton (above La Grange) and -connects at various points with Canton chute, itself some 10 m. long. -La Grange, where Pike camps, was so called from the hill under which -it nestled, and the English of which would be Barn hill. The original -settlement was named Wyaconda or Waconda, from the river at whose -mouth it was made; thus Nicollet's map marks Wiyakonda instead of La -Grange, preserving the Indian name of the place. This river is a large -one which, with its branches, traverses Scotland and Clark cos. before -entering Lewis Co. Before settlement a certain tract of country below -La Grange had been called Waconda prairie, or in some similar form of -the Indian word, as Wacondaw of Maj. Thos. Forsyth, 1819; and this is -what Pike's map presents as the "Small Prairie." - -[I-15] About two-thirds of the way from La Grange to Keokuk--say to Fox -prairie, at the mouth of Fox r., site of Gregory's Landing, Clark Co., -Mo. The principal place passed is Canton, Lewis Co., Mo., 7 m. above -La Grange, opposite the head of Canton chute. Some other places that -were started, such as Satterfield, would be hard to find on a -latter-day map. Tully is now practically a part of Canton; Tully isl. -exists, 3 or 4 m. above Canton, and Satterfield's creek is a branch of -Fox r. Near there, one Dodd kept for some years a woodyard on the -Illinois side, and the steamboat channel among the sand-bars and -islands in his vicinity acquired the name of Dodd's crossing. - -[I-16] About 10 m., from Gregory's ldg. to "the point of a beach" within -the present city limits of Keokuk, Lee Co., Ia., immediately above the -mouth of Des Moines r., which for some distance separates the States -of Missouri and Iowa; opposite is Hancock Co., Ill. The place where -Pike got sawyered was very likely between Hackley's and Fox isls. The -place is a bad one; there has been a good deal of engineering work -done in damming Hackley's chute, and jettying the channel over to the -other side. Fox r. (once called R. Puante, whence also Stinking cr.) -is not mentioned by Pike in the present connection; but he speaks of -it elsewhere, and lays it down on his map without name, marking an -Indian village on the Illinois side between its mouth and that of Des -Moines r. The present or a very recent arrangement of its discharge is -by Fox slough, a small snicarty that begins at Alexandria and runs 5 -m. down to Gregory's ldg. This cuts off a piece of bottom which the -railroad traverses between the points said, besides Fox and several -lesser islands. - -[I-17] For the origin of this name, involving a spurious etymology by -association with Trappist monks, see Lewis and Clark, ed. 1893, p. 20. -The always careful and accurate Nicollet made the matter quite plain: -see his Rep. 1843, p. 22. Some form of the old Indian name is used by -the earliest French travelers in these parts. One of the oldest maps I -have seen, dressee par J. B. Franquelin dans 1688 pour etre presentee -a Louis XIV., letters R. des Moingana, and marks the Indian village of -Moingoana. One of Joliet's maps has Moeng8ena. Joliet and Marquette -passed its mouth going down the Miss. r. in 1673, on or about June -25th; Accault, Auguelle, and Hennepin passed it going up the Miss. r. -early in 1680. Besides the many early variants of the phrase which -settled into Des Moines, we find R. of the Outontantas, 8tantas, -8t8ntes, Otentas, etc., R. of the Peouareas, Paotes, etc., R. of the -Maskoutens, etc., Nadouessioux, etc. This is the largest river Pike -has come to since he left the Illinois, and the only tributary of the -Missouri which he charts with any detail; he lays it down with 20 of -its branches, and marks the positions on it of old Forts Crawford and -St. Louis. We observe that he calls it De Moyen; and this gives -occasion for a blunder not less amusing than to call it Trappist r. -would be. For our hero was ambitious of French scholarship, and on -consulting his dictionary to find out about _moyen_, he set the stream -down as _Means_ r. in his French-English vocabulary of geographical -names. Another author, or his printer, got it Demon r. Beltrami, 1828, -renders Le Moine and Monk r. Pike's editor of the early text, 1807, -has des Moines, p. 4. The stream is a large and very important one, -too much so to be entered upon in a mere note like this; but I may -observe that it is historically less significant than those of similar -extent on the Illinois and Wisconsin side of the Mississippi, because -several of the latter were highways during the seventeenth and -eighteenth centuries. The mouth of the Des Moines became of course the -scene of early settlement, but not all the places started there -survived. Nicollet's map shows three--Keokuck, Montebello, Warsaw. -Owen's, somewhat later, has also Nassau and Churchville, immediately -at the debouchure, where there came to be also a Buenavista. -Publishing in 1847, but having written of 1835, the always -entertaining Featherstonhaugh speaks of "a sorry settlement on the -left bank, called Keokuk, after a celebrated Sauk chief, inhabited -altogether by a set of desperados"--a diagnosis which will no doubt be -better relished by the Hamiltonians, Varsovians, and Alexandrians than -by the present polished Keokukites. He should have made one exception, -however, for he found there the famous George Catlin, Nov. 4th, 1835: -see his book, II. p. 42. Besides Keokuk, Lee Co., Ia., at the foot of -the rapids above the mouth of the Des Moines, the three places which -have grown into urban reality are: Hamilton, Hancock Co., Ill., -directly opposite Keokuk; Warsaw, Hancock Co., Ill., 2 m. below the -mouth, and directly opposite this, Alexandria, Clark Co., Mo. Three -States as well as three counties thus met here. Pike continues with -Illinois on his right, but now has Iowa instead of Missouri on his -left. - -Fort Edwards was a position of importance for some years. This -military post was built on the east side of the Mississippi, 3 m. -below the foot of the rapids, and directly opposite the two islands -which divided the outlet of the Des Moines into three channels. Half a -mile S. W. from the fort was Cantonment Davis, its precursor, -abandoned when the works were completed. The locality is practically -Warsaw. A full description of this establishment, as it was at the -time of Long's visit in August, 1817, is given in his report, as -printed in Minn. Hist. Col., II. Part 1, 1860; 2d ed. 1890, pp. 77-80. -It had been building since June, 1816, and was not quite finished in -1817. - -[I-18] Some light--at least that light in which he was regarded--is -thrown on Mr. Ewing by a letter before me from General James Wilkinson -to General Henry Dearborn, Secretary at War, dated St. Louis, Dec. 3d, -1805: "In a former letter you have asked me who this Ewing was? I can -give you no further Information than that I found Him in a place, -which He is utterly unqualified to fill--He is I understand placed at -the River Desmoin, to teach the Indians the Arts of Agriculture, but -has I believe given but a wretched example--This is I think the Third -visit he has made since my arrival to this place, and I expect his -disbursements which are supplied by Mr. Chouteau may exceed -expectation--He appears to be a young man of innocence, levity & -simplicity--without experience or observation." - -[I-19] The rapids named from their situation above the mouth of Des -Moines r. have also been known as the Lower rapids, in distinction -from those higher up about the mouth of Rock r. These formidable -obstacles to navigation have been overcome by modern engineering -skill, but Pike's curt notice of the channel is clearly recognizable. -The river was bridged by the Wabash road between Hamilton and Keokuk, -in 1869-70 (Act of Congr., July 25th, 1866); the town lock and chain -are within a mile or so of the bridge. Then succeed the English, -Lamalee, and Spanish chains, and the Upper chain at the head of the -rapids. The distance is about 11 m. Sandusky, Ia., was located between -the English and Lamalee chains; Nashville, Ia., at the Spanish chain; -Solferino, Ia., above the last; at or near one of these last two is -Galland, Ia.; and on the Illinois side is a place called Sonora. On -that side Cheney cr. falls in at Hamilton, and higher up are two -others, known as Golden's and Quarry Sugar, but which used to be -called Wagoner's and Larry's; while on the Iowan side Price's cr. -falls in at the middle lock, Lamalee's at Sandusky, and several -smaller ones at various points. The railroad and canal hug the Iowan -side. At the head of the rapids the river makes a sharp bend; in the -concavity of this bend stands Nauvoo, Ill., originally a Mormon -settlement; it used to be called also Commerce. This is the place -where Mr. Ewing had his establishment when he entertained Pike; the -latter charts it as "U. S. Agricultural Estab^t." The Sac village -opposite was on the site of the present town of Montrose, Ia. A large -creek runs through this town. There are some islands at the head of -the rapids, between Nauvoo and Montrose, one of which, No. 401 of the -Miss. Surv. chart, is called Montrose. At the head of the bend, still -opp. Nauvoo, is the lower end of Dobson's slough, which receives a -stream charted by Nicollet and Owen as Sugar cr., but later dedicated -to his Satanic majesty by the name of Devil's or Big Devil cr., called -by Beltrami Manitou cr. Devil's isl. is the name of the large tract, -nearly 4 m. long, which is isolated by Dobson's slough, certain -sections of which latter are known as Big River and Potter's. - -[I-20] James Wilkinson: see elsewhere for this letter, which formed Doc. -No. 1, App. to Pt. 1. of the orig. ed. of this work. Pike's 5 or 6 m. -takes him past Dobson's slough and Devil's or Sugar cr. and isl., and -the sand-bar on which he camped is now represented by Niota isl., 21/2 -m. long, or one of the small ones close by. The locality is the -well-known one of the city of Madison, or Fort Madison, seat of Lee -Co., Ia. Opposite this city, in Hancock Co., Ill., are two little -places, one called Niota, and the other Appannose (Nicollet), -Appanoose (G. L. O. map), Appanooce (Miss. Surv. chart), etc. A -certain creek which falls in by Niota and is known as Tyson's cr. -seems to be the never-identified one which Lewis and Clark mapped in -1814 as Sand Bank cr. - -A history of Lee Co., pub. Chicago, 1879, says that the city of Fort -Madison was so called from the old fort and trading-post of that name. -The author speaks of the tradition that this establishment was built -by Zachary Taylor, when this distinguished general, afterward -president of the United States, was a lieutenant in the army; and -attempts to refute this tradition by an appeal to the War Department -for the facts in the case. But unluckily, the information he derived -from this source was erroneous; for the Hon. Geo. W. McCrary, then -secretary of war, told him that the adjutant-general of the army -reported to him (McCrary) that Fort Madison was erected by Pike in -1805. Whereas, besides imperishable renown, Pike erected nothing in -1805 but his stockade on Swan r., and various patriotic flag-poles. -The difference between selecting or recommending a site for a fort, -and building one on that site, is obvious at sight. But Pike did not -even select or recommend this spot for a fort, the lowest one of -several which he did pick out being at Burlington: see next note. Z. -Taylor was a 1st lieut. of the 7th Infantry in 1808, appointed from -Ky.; which fact, as far as it goes, supports the tradition. The -Andreas Hist. Atl. of Ia. has it that the fort for which the town was -named was built in 1808; evacuated and burned by hostile Indians, 1813 -(qu. 1812?). On Monday, Aug. 4th, 1817, when Long visited the ruins of -Fort Madison, there was nothing left but some old chimneys, a covert -way leading from the main garrison to some sort of an elevated outwork -in the rear, and a number of fruit-trees on the ground which had been -a garden: see Minn. Hist. Soc. II., Part 1, 1860, 2d ed. 1890, p. 75. -In the fall of 1832 one Peter Williams settled on the present site of -the town. The old trading-house there was called Le Moine factory. The -old fort stood close to the river, and as I judge within a third of a -mile of the present State penitentiary. - -[I-21] About 18 m., to a position above the mouth of Skunk r., a little -below the Burlington bluffs; he calls it 51/4 m. to the locality he -presently describes with particularity, and which will be recognized -as the site of Burlington, seat of Des Moines Co., Ia. After passing -Madison on his left, with Niota and Appanoose on his right, he goes up -by Pontoosuc and Dallas, both in Hancock Co., Ill., and then has -Henderson Co., Ill., on his right. Further up, on the left, Lee Co. is -separated from Des Moines Co., Ia., by Skunk r. This is a large -stream, whose present pleasant name translates the Indian word -rendered Shikagua by Nicollet, and Shokauk by Featherstonhaugh; Lewis -and Clark map it as Polecat r. Beltrami, 1828, calls it Polecat r. and -River of the Bete Puante. Green Bay is a small place in Lee Co., on a -sort of slough which discharges into the river behind Lead isl., and -which is called Green bay. This is connected in some way, which for me -remains occult, with a creek called by Nicollet Lost cr.; it is a part -of the intricate waters between Skunk r. and that stream which runs -through Madison past the State penitentiary, where the bridge that was -built in 1887-88 strikes the Iowa side. Jollyville was a place on the -same waters, but seems to have been lost like the creek. Some of the -islands besides Lead, the present positions of which Pike passed, if -not these islands themselves, are now known as Dutchman, Hog, Polk, -Thompson, Peel, and Twin, the latter at the mouth of Skunk r. His camp -I suppose to have been about on the spot where one Sauerwein used to -keep his woodyard, about halfway between Twin isls. and the mouth of -Spruce (or Spring) cr. This is nearly opp. the middle of the great -island now called Burlington, formerly Big, being 7 m. long, separated -from the Illinois mainland by Shokokon slough, on which there is or -was a place called by this latter name. A number of creeks make into -this slough, among them those called Dug Out, Honey (Camp cr. of -Nicollet and Owen), and Ellison's. A place called Montreal started -near Ellison's cr., but does not seem to have survived. What Pike maps -as "Sand bank Creek," at a place he calls "Sand Bay," seems to be Dug -Out cr., or the next one below, which falls into the slough behind -Thompson's isl., near Dallas City. - -[I-22] This is the prairie through which meanders Henderson r., 6 m. -above Burlington. The Sac village was on its north bank. The prairie -and the village are lettered on the map as per text; the river is -shown there, without name; the Burlington bluffs are delineated, -marked "Positions for a Fort." The present city was built across the -mouth of Hawkeye cr., a rivulet which makes in above the steepest part -of the bluff, where the Flint hills recede a little from the river; it -extends to the larger Flint cr. or r., at whose mouth it may be said -to be situated. Across the Mississippi is East Burlington, Ill., at -the head of Shokokon slough; the bridge which the C., B. and Q. R. R. -built in 1867-68 spans the river and connects the two places. There -are numerous islands above Burlington, the principal of which are -O'Connell's, Rush, and Otter. Above Henderson r. there is nothing of -special note till we reach Oquawka, seat of Henderson Co., Ill., -reckoned 13 m. by the channel above Burlington. Pike omits his -customary mileages to-day, but did not get beyond Oquawka, which is at -the head of the prairie on which he camped; for here begin some steep -banks, known before and since Pike's day as the Yellow banks. He marks -them on his map, and they are mentioned by the same name in Forsyth's -narrative of 1819. - -[I-23] We are not told which side of the river this was, and the -sentence is otherwise ambiguous, as all streams hereabouts are -branches of the river. We know he means a bayou or slough, by -following which he expected soon to regain the Mississippi ahead of -his boats, and I suppose that Huron slough, on the Iowa side, led him -astray. The slough itself is not long, merely cutting off Huron and -some smaller islands for four miles; but this receives Iowa slough, -which meanders toward the river, and so would take Pike and Bradley -away from the river if they followed it up. This supposition is -strengthened by Pike's using the word "savannah," which with him means -rather marsh or bog than prairie, and he would hardly have applied it -to the better ground on the Illinois side if he had gone there and -been misled by Henderson r. Moreover, he continues to camp on the west -side, as he would naturally do after loss of the two men who went to -find his dogs; and also he expected to recover the men at the place -above where the hills first come down to the river, which is at -Muscatine, Ia. He does not say who these men were; they were not -recovered till Sept. 1st, at Dubuque. - -[I-24] This mileage is excessive, as are all those hence to Rock Island -or Davenport, the distance of which by the channel is 70 m. from -Oquawka, though Pike makes it 92. Moreover, the distance from Oquawka -to New Boston, directly opposite the mouth of the Iowa r., is only 18 -m., and Pike remains below the Iowa r. to-day. What with sloughing it, -losing his dogs, and waiting for his men, he did not get much beyond -Keithsburg, Mercer Co., Ill., which we may safely take as to-day's -datum-point. This is built under a bank at the mouth of Pope's cr., -and so far answers the requirements of Pike's camp opposite it. The -situation is in Louisa Co., Ia., but a little distance over the -boundary of Des Moines Co. Excepting Keithsburg, no notable point is -passed to-day. A place called Huron was started on the slough of that -name, but it never came to anything. Huron isl. is called Thieves' -isl. on some maps. The large one (No. 355) opp. Keithsburg, and -crossed by the railroad, is separated from the Iowan side by Black -Hawk slough. - -[I-25] Pike delineates "Sand Bank" on his map directly opposite the -mouth of Iowa r. This is the site of New Boston, Mercer Co., Ill. The -bank comes immediately upon the river with a frontage of 2 m., and -Edwards r. falls in at the foot of the bank, 31/2 m. above Pope's r. At -New Boston the Mississippi turns sharply, so that the mouth of Iowa r. -is rather on the S. than W.; and the bank on which is the town recedes -northward, leaving low ground between itself and the Mississippi, -watered by the ramifications of Sturgeon bay, Illinois slough, Swan -lake, etc. This is what Pike means by his "Sand-bank prairie on the E. -side." As to that "marked Grant's prairie," I should observe that no -such name appears on the map as published; Pike referred to his -immense original draft in water-colors, now preserved in the War -Department, and from which the small printed map was reduced with the -omission of too many details. What he means by Grant's prairie is the -lowlands on the Iowa side before you come to Muscatine, which is the -point where the hills first reach the river-side. Compare Apr. 26th, -1806. Grant's prairie is now known as Muscatine isl., being virtually -cut off by Muscatine slough, whose lower mouth is hardly 2 m. above -the Iowa r., though the upper entrance is at Muscatine--a distance of -some 18-20 m. At one point this slough dilates into a body of water -which is now called Keokuk lake, but which was charted by Nicollet as -"L. Maskuding or in the Prairie." Here are obviously the origin and -meaning of the name "Muscatine." The town now so called was once known -as Bloomington. I suspect that "Grant's" prairie in Pike may be -intended for _Grande_ prairie; thus Beltrami calls it Grande Prairie -Mascotin, II. p. 196, and Forsyth has Grand Mascoutin. There was a -place started by the name of Port Louisa on the Iowan side of the -river, near one of the openings of Muscatine slough; but it seems to -have disappeared after bequeathing the name to the county, whose seat -is now Wapello. As to Pike's "28" miles to-day, that is best disposed -of by observing that to-morrow he drags his boat "nine miles, to where -the river Hills join the Mississippi," _i. e._, to Muscatine. So he -camps on the Iowan side, a certain distance below Muscatine. We shall -not be far out if we set him exactly on the boundary between Louisa -and Muscatine cos., opp. the lower end of Blanchard's isl., behind the -middle of which Copperas or Copper cr. falls in on the Illinois side. - -The great Iowa r. should not be passed without remark. For the name in -its extreme fluidity, see Lewis and Clark, ed. 1893, p. 20. Some still -more singular forms of the word than those there noted reach us from -the time when the French writers and cartographers used the figure 8 -for the letters _ou_; so that "Iowa" was liable to appear as Ay8ay -(Ayouay), or in some such form: Neill cites forms sing. and pl. as -Aye8ias, Ayo8ois, Ayooues, Ayavois, Ayoois, Ayouez, Ayoes, Aaiaoua, to -which I can add Aiavvi; another series of words flows from the -introduction of J or j: thus Pike, early text, 1807, p. 5, has Jowa, -and I have noticed also Ajoe, Jaway, Joway, Jowah, etc. Beltrami, -1828, has Yawoha, Yahowa, and Yawowa. This river-system waters a great -portion of the State, on courses S., S. E., and E. Pike says elsewhere -that in ascending it 36 m. you come to a fork, the right-hand branch -of which is called Red Cedar r. Waiving any question of distance, this -is correct; and moreover, Red Cedar is the larger of the two forks, -though by a very unusual freak of nomenclature the united stream Iowa -takes the name of the lesser fork. He further says that Red Cedar r. -branches out 300 m. from its mouth; which triple forking is "called -the Turkey's foot." This term seems to have lapsed; the situation is -in Black Hawk Co., above Cedar Falls, and one of the turkey's toes is -called Shell Rock r. The notable town of Cedar Rapids is lower down, -in Linn Co. The confluence of Iowa r. proper with Red Cedar is at -Fredonia, Louisa Co.; Pike's map represents this by the -pitchfork-shaped object, though it is not lettered with any name. He -marks a village of Iowas "about 10 miles up," on the "right" bank, -_i. e._, on the right-hand side going up, left bank. Iowa r. presents the -anomaly of a great river with nothing to speak of at its mouth (New -Boston is across the Mississippi). "Iowa City" seems never to have got -much beyond its original wood-pile, and a similar "city" which -Nicollet charts by the name of Black Hawk would be hard to find now. -There is, however, a little place called Toolsboro, under the hill on -the left bank, 2 m. above the mouth of the Iowa. - -[I-26] Pirogues: see L. and C., ed. 1893, p. 4. Pike uses this form -consistently. The most amusing variant of the word I have noticed -occurs in Shea's Hennepin's Descr. Louisiana, Eng. tr., 1880, p. 156, -where we read, "a number of parrakeets and about eighty cabins full of -Indians," and an editorial note informs us that "the French printer -put peroquets, but Margry's Relation gives the real word, 'pirogues,' -'canoes.'" - -[I-27] The distance between Muscatine and Rock Island is 28 or 29 m. by -the channel. As Pike has 6 or 8 m. to go before reaching Muscatine, -makes "281/2" to-day, and "22" to-morrow, we can confidently set him -down to-night halfway between these two places--say vicinity of -Montpelier, Muscatine Co., Ia., 4 or 5 m. below Buffalo, Ia., and -Andalusia, Ill. There is no specially notable point in this whole -stretch, after Muscatine is passed; the most of a place is Fairport, -Ia., 3 m. above Tahma or Sweetland cr. Several places that were -started seem to have died young, if they were not stillborn; we find -on older maps such as Geneva, somewhere between Muscatine and Fairport -on the Iowa side, and Wyoming, apparently in the same position as -Fairport now is. Between Muscatine and Fairport the river is or was -recently divided into Drury slough, Wyoming slough, and Hersey chute -betwixt these. Pine cr. falls in on the Iowan side, 21/2 m. above -Fairport. Opposite Fairport the long Andalusia slough opens, running -down on the Illinois side all the way from Andalusia, a distance of 9 -m. Pike's camp was probably on the Iowan side (still in Muscatine -Co.); across the river he has Rock Island Co., Ill. - -[I-28] Actually about 16 m., to one of the most definite locations of -the voyage thus far, in the heart of the present city of Davenport, -seat of Scott Co., Ia., and directly opposite Rock Island, seat of -Rock Island Co., Ill. Soon after passing present site of Montpelier, -Pike went from Muscatine into Scott Co., Ia. Next are the two towns -directly opposite each other, of Buffalo, Ia., and Andalusia, Ill.; -the former is marked N. Buffalo on Nicollet's map; the other is called -Rockport on Owen's map, or Rockport was then where Andalusia is now. -Linwood, Ia., is a small place 2 m. above Buffalo; and 3 m. above this -was the site of Rockingham, Ia. This last was started directly -opposite the mouth of Rock r., but never flourished. In fact there is -probably no place on the Mississippi where more mushroom towns have -been projected on paper by unscrupulous speculators than about the -mouth of Rock r.; and we observe that they mostly had resounding -names, well known in other parts of the world. A certain -Stephensonville is marked on Nicollet's map, apparently in the present -position of the city of Rock Island. In the mouth of Rock r. is a -triangular island, dividing the two outlets, and opposite this is -Credit isl. (No. 312), 11/2 m. long. Pike's camp in Davenport was -probably about opposite the lower point of Rock isl., 21/2 m. long; this -is No. 307 of the Engineers' chart, and its lower end was utilized for -the bridge built in 1869-72 by the C., R. I. and P. R. R. (Act of -Congr., July 26th, 1868). - -La Riviere de Roche, or a la Roche, of the French, which Pike and -others call Stoney or Stony and Rocky or Rock r., and which is now -known by the latter name, is the second largest in Illinois. It arises -in Wisconsin, in the region S. of Lake Winnebago, leaves that State at -Beloit, and holds a general S. W. course through Illinois to the -Mississippi. It used to be called Kickapoo r.--a name traceable to R. -des Kicapous of Franquelin's map, 1688. Pike gives its source as near -Green bay of L. Michigan, and ascribes a length of 450 m., 300 of them -navigable. His map letters "The largest Sac Vill." on its S. side near -the mouth, about the present position of Milan, and delineates the -extensive rapids of the Miss. r., above its mouth, which the text of -the 28th describes. Rock r. afforded one of the five or six principal -waterways between the Great Lakes and the Miss. r., the connection -being made above the Horicon marshes by portage from the small stream -which falls into L. Winnebago at Fond du Lac. But this way was less -eligible than the Fox-Wisconsin route. - -[I-29] See Lewis and Clark, ed. 1893, pp. 1202, 1203, 1211. James Aird -and his brother George were among the Sioux traders at the mouth of -the Minnesota or St. Pierre r. in 1803 and thereafter; others -similarly engaged then and there were Archibald Campbell, Duncan -Graham, and Francis M. Dease. - -[I-30] Davenport, Ia., to Le Claire, Ia., 16 m. by water; Rock Island, -Ill., to Port Byron, Ill., 17 m.; actual extent of the rapids somewhat -less than either of these distances. The chains, in ascending series, -are called Lower, Moline, Duck Creek, Winnebago, Campbell's, St. -Louis, Crab Island, Sycamore, Smith's, Upper. The principal islands -are: Rock, No. 307, 21/2 m. long, with the little ones called Papoose -(No. 308), Benham's, and Sylvan, alongside; Campbell's, opp. -Watertown, Ill.; Spencer's, opp. Hampton, Ill., on the Iowan side; and -Fulton's. A number of creeks make in on both sides; among them are -Duck, Crow, and Spencer's, on the Iowan side, and the one on the -Illinois side which falls in by Watertown, name unknown to me. The -rapids were formerly guarded by Fort Armstrong, occupying an eligible -site on the extreme lower end of Rock isl. A good account of this -post, as it was in 1817, is found in Long's Expedition of that year, -printed in 1860 and reprinted in 1890, in Part I of II. of the Minn. -Hist. Coll., pp. 67-73. The places on the Illinois side are: Moline, -31/2 m. above Rock Island; Watertown, 5 m. above Moline; Hampton, 1 m. -above Moline; Rapids City, 41/2 m. above Hampton; Port Byron, 1 m. -further; land distances less than by river-channel. On the Iowan side, -between Davenport and Le Claire, are places called Gilberttown or -Gilbert, opp. Moline, and Valley City or Pleasant Valley, opp. -Hampton. Pike does not say where he camped at the head of the rapids; -but it was no doubt at Le Claire, as the channel ran on the Iowan -side. - -[I-31] This Fox Indian village is located on Pike's map, but without -name. It was on the Iowan side, above the rapids--not at Le Claire, -but somewhat further up, at or near present town of Princeton, Scott -Co., Ia. Forsyth in 1819 speaks of "the Little Fox village, 9 miles -above the rapids." A mile above Princeton, on the Illinois side, is -Cordova, marked Cordawa on Owen's map, and Berlin on Nicollet's. - -[I-32] At 4 m. above Cordova, Pike passed on the left or Iowan side a -river whose name is perhaps the most remarkable thing about it: -Wabisapencun, Pike's map; Wabisipinekan, Pike's text, further on; -Wabisapincun, Lewis and Clark's map of 1814; Wapisipinacon, Long's; -Wabezipinikan, Nicollet's; Wabesapinica, Featherstonhaugh's; -Wapsipinicon, Owen's and U. S. Eng'rs'; Wapsipinecon, G. L. O. No two -original authors agree, and when one tries to copy another he is -liable to be foiled by his printer. But the river runs on just the -same, through several Iowan counties, on a general S. E. course, -approximately parallel in most of its extent with Red Cedar r. It also -does duty as the boundary between Scott and Clinton cos., Ia., along -most of their apposed extent. There are several islands about its -mouth; one of them is called Adams. Opposite the mouth of the W----n -r., for a space of about 8 m. along the Illinois side of the -Mississippi, the hills recede, leaving a low place in which the body -of water known as Marais d'Osier, or Lake Willowmarsh, is situated: -see Pike's map, in the interval between his "High Prairie" (ending at -Cordova) and his "Rocky Hills" (beginning about Albany). Beltrami, II. -196, calls this Marais d'Oge, and says it was "inhabited by a savage -of the same name"! Beltrami's bosom friend, Major Long, has a still -more startling rendition of the phrase, as Mer a Doge, in Minn. Hist. -Coll., II. Part 1, 1860, 2d ed. 1890, p. 67. It appears as Mare de Oge -on an Illinois atlas before me. From Le Claire to Albany is 18 m.; -Pike probably did not get quite so far as this, but for convenience of -keeping tally we will assume that he did, and set him on the lower -point of the great Beaver isl. (No. 291), at the mouth of Comanche -slough, directly opposite Albany, Whiteside Co., Ill.; nearest place -on the other side is Comanche or Camanche, Clinton Co., Ia. Beaver -isl. is 3 m. long, and extends up to Clinton, the county seat. - -[I-33] The distance by river-channel from Albany to Dubuque is reckoned -72 m. Pike's figures are 43 + 311/2 + 25 = 991/2 m. The required reduction of -mileage is about one-fourth off; applying which to the "43" m. of the -30th, we find Pike somewhere in the vicinity of Apple r., and may most -conveniently set him at its mouth. Decamping on the 30th, he first -made the stretch of Beaver isl., past Cedar and Cat-tail crs., right, -and came to Clinton. The original name of this city, or of its site, -was New York; both these terms seem to point back to the time when -Governor Dewitt C. Clinton was popular. The river was spanned here by -the bridge built by the C. and N. W. R. R. in 1864-65, utilizing -island No. 290. Two or three miles above stand, facing each other, -Lyons, Clinton Co., Ia., and Fulton, Whiteside Co., Ill.; around the -other side of the hill N. of Fulton, Otter cr. falls in. The line of -hills on the Iowan side comes to the river a mile above Lyons, but at -once recedes again, leaving along the river-side what is called the -Pomme de Terre, Potato, or Ground Apple prairie, at the head of which -Elk r. or cr. falls in, 8 m. above Lyons. The recession of the hills -on the Illinois side from Fulton is much greater for a space of 16 m., -where there is low ground for some miles back from the river, sloughy -the whole way near the river, and thus making various islands, the -largest of which are called Fulton and Savanna. Near the head of -Fulton isl. is a little place named Thompson, in Carroll Co., Ill. The -line of Whiteside and Carroll cos. strikes the river about halfway -between Fulton (town) and Thompson. On the Iowan side, the line of -Clinton and Jackson cos. is between Elk r. and Sabula. The latter -town, or its site, used to be called Charleston. It naturally grew -after 1881, when the C., M. and St. P. R. R. built the bridge here, -under Act of Congr., Apr. 1st, 1872. The site of Sabula is called -Prairie du Frappeur, Beltrami, II. p. 196, where it is said to have -been "inhabited by a savage of that name." Before crossing the river, -the track ran for a couple of miles on Savanna isl., at the head of -which Plum r. falls in; and immediately above this point is Savanna, -Carroll Co., Ill., 21/2 m. from Sabula. The high ground comes close to -the river at Savanna, but on the Iowan side there is sloughy bottom -for 4 m. above Sabula, all this lowland being known as Keller's isl.; -above this, higher ground comes to the river-side at Keller's bar. -Rush or Big Rush cr. falls in on the Illinois side 5 m. above Savanna, -and 2 m. further is the mouth of La Pomme or Apple r., nearly up to -the boundary between Carroll and Jo Daviess cos., Ill. One Arnold used -to have his landing a mile below Apple r., about where we suppose Pike -to have camped. - -[I-34] Whatever the exact distance represented by this mileage, we have -to set the Expedition down in a very unhealthy place to-night, as will -presently appear. Soon after decamping from Apple r.,--that is, in 5 -miles' distance by the channel, Pike passes on his left a notable -stream, which he elsewhere calls the Great Macoketh. This is Makokety -r. of Nicollet, Maquoketa r. of others, whose name is now usually -spelled Makoqueta. This is also the designation of the county seat of -Jackson, situated upon the river. It falls in opposite Sand prairie, -about where the line between Carroll and Jo Daviess cos. strikes the -river. The "beautiful eminence on the W." which Pike observed is -Leopold hill, near Bellevue, Jackson Co., Ia. This town existed before -Nicollet's map was made, as he marks it by name. The locality called -Cheniere by Beltrami II. 196, was hereabouts. He gives it on the W., -10 m. above his R. la Pomme. The hills begin to approach the river -four or five miles below Bellevue, and so continue with little -interruption to Dubuque. The trough of the river is similar on the -Illinois side, but the hills do not hug the river so closely, leaving -a stretch of sloughy bottom, especially at the delta of the Galena r. -This is the insalubrious place of encampment. The Galena was long -named, and is still sometimes called, Fever r. The same slough by -which it discharges receives Smallpox cr.; and on the Iowan side, -opposite Harris slough, which is the upper end of the Fever delta, a -creek falls in known as Tete du Mort, or Tete des Morts. It must have -been a choice region of saturnine and miasmatic poisons, as the -victims of lead-palsy and ague-cake who lived on Fever r. had the -option of moving down on Smallpox cr. or over to Death's-head cr. The -place to avoid is pointed out to Mississippian tourists by Pilot Knob, -an isolated eminence on the prairie near the variolous creek, 3 m. S. -of the city of Galena, which is about the same distance up the febrile -stream. The cranial creek is said to have been so named on account of -the number of skulls which resulted from an Indian fight there. On -this point Beltrami, 1828, II. p. 160, has "a place called the -Death's-heads; a field of battle where the Foxes defeated the -Kikassias [Kaskaskias?], whose heads they fixed upon poles as trophies -of their victory. We stopped at the entrance of the river la Fievre, a -name in perfect conformity with the effect of the bad air which -prevails there." Nor do I know what terrors may be hidden under the -name of Sinsinawa cr., which makes in a mile or two higher up, on the -Illinois side. Two of the sloughs at the delta are called respectively -Harris' and Spratt's; a third is Stone slough. One Gordon established -a ferry here, many years ago, and a place on the Iowan side, close to -the boundary between Jackson and Dubuque cos., is still known as -Gordon's ferry. Regarding the nomenclature of Galena r., we should not -omit to cite here Keating's Long's Exp. of 1823, published 1824, I. p. -212, where it is stated that Smallpox cr. and Fever r. are the same: -"a small stream, called by the Indians Mekabea Sepe, or Small-pox -river; it is the Riviere de la Fievre, which is said to enter the -Mississippi opposite to Dubuque's mines." Probably not much weight -attaches to this observation, which Major Long only made -parenthetically, and evidently at second-hand information, in speaking -of a badger which his party had killed and cooked; though it is also -quite possible that Galena r. once rejoiced in both names, one of -which was later conferred upon the small creek which enters its delta. -That Long knew the Galena as La Fievre r. is certain, for he uses the -latter name, though without any accent, in the narrative of his voyage -of 1817, in speaking of reaching it on Monday, July 28th, of that -year. See Minn. Hist. Coll., II. Part 1, 1860; 2d ed. 1890, p. 66. It -appears that Long's MS. of his voyage of 1817 was placed in Prof. -Keating's hands when the latter was preparing for publication the -history of Long's Expedition of 1823. This source of information was -freely drawn upon; in fact, I do not see that Prof. Keating did not -fully avail himself of this opportunity to editorially embody in the -narrative of 1823 the whole substance of the 1817 materials, in so far -as Major Long went over the same ground in the two expeditions. But -the earlier narrative contains considerable matter not pertinent to -the later one, inasmuch as Major Long in 1817 traversed a long section -of the Mississippi that he did not retrace in 1823. On this particular -account, as well as for more general reasons, it was desirable and -eminently fitting that Long's Expedition of 1817 should be published; -and that was first done in long after-years by my friend, the late -Rev. Edw. D. Neill, the veteran Minnesota historian, who received the -MS. for this purpose from Dr. Edwin James, then of Burlington, Ia. -(who d. Oct. 28th, 1861). As originally published under Dr. Neill's -careful editorship, the article was entitled: "Voyage in a Six-Oared -Skiff to the Falls of Saint Anthony in 1817. By Major Stephen H. Long, -Topographical Engineer United States Army," and formed Part 1 of Vol. -II. of the Minn. Hist. Coll., 1860 (about 80 pages); 2d ed. 1890, -half-title and introductory note by E. D. N., one leaf; journal, pp. -9-83; map and appendix, prepared by A. J. Hill, pp. 84-88. Major -Long's movements of 1817 occupied 76 days, of which the journal here -printed covers the period from July 9th to Aug. 15th, both inclusive, -or 38 days; as it picks up Major Long after his return to Prairie du -Chien from a tour of the Fox-Wisconsin portage, takes him from that -Prairie to the falls, and returns him to Bellefontaine, near the mouth -of the Missouri. The objects of this voyage were to meander the upper -Mississippi and take its topography, with special reference to the -selection of military sites. It was performed in a boat furnished by -Governor William Clark, Superintendent of Indian Affairs at St. Louis. -Its most important single result was the speedy occupation of the -mouth of St. Peter's r. for a military post, at first called Fort St. -Anthony, and in 1824 named Fort Snelling; but the narrative is replete -with matter of permanent historical and scientific interest. Major -Long was a conscientious, competent, and well-equipped explorer, as -all three of his important and memorable expeditions attest. The -present expedition is the only one of which we have the account from -his own pen, as Dr. James and Prof. Keating, respectively, were the -authors of the other two. Stephen Harriman Long, of New Hampshire, was -appointed from that State a second lieutenant of Engineers Dec. 12th, -1814, and brevetted major of Topographical Engineers Apr. 29th, 1816, -though his actual majority in that corps was not reached till July -7th, 1838. He became colonel Sept. 9th, 1861, was retired June 1st, -1863, and died at Alton, Ill., Sept. 4th, 1864. - -[I-35] This Dubuque matter formed a part of Doc. No. 2 of App. to Part 1 -of the orig. ed., p. 5, and will be found beyond: see Chap. v. Art. 3. -The document was transmitted to General Wilkinson by Pike from Prairie -du Chien. - -[I-36] Chippewas, or Ojibways--of whom Pike has much to say in this -volume. The French nickname he uses, found also as Saulteurs, -Saulteux, Saltiaux, Sautiers, Saltiers, Soutors, Soters, etc., was not -given because these Indians were better jumpers than any others, but -because the band of Chippewas whom it originally designated lived -about the Sault de Sainte Marie, or St. Mary's falls, of Lake -Superior. The term afterward became synonymous with Chippewas or -Ojibways in a broad sense. On the map of Champlain's Voy., Paris, -1632, the Sault is marked du Gaston, for the brother of Louis XIII., -and there located between Mer Douce and Grand Lac, _i. e._, between -Lakes Huron and Superior. The chute seems to have been first heard of -about 1616-18, from one Etienne Brusle, or Stephen Broolay. In 1669, -when the Jesuits reached the place, they changed the name to -compliment the B. V. M. There is no doubt that Ojibwa or Ojibway is -preferable to Chippewa or Chippeway, as a name of the tribe; but the -latter is best established, both in official history and in geography, -and may be most conveniently retained. These are the same word, -etymologically, and are mere samples of the extraordinary profusion of -forms in which the name exists. Very likely 50 different combinations -of letters could be produced, some of them bearing little resemblance -to one another. The meaning of the name is in chronic dispute. The -linguistic sages seem to be agreed that the word has something to do -with _puckering_; but whether it refers to the place which is puckered -up between the two lakes above said, or to the way the moccasins of -these Indians were puckered along a peculiar seam, or to the habits of -these Indians of torturing with fire till the skins of their prisoners -were puckered by burning to a crisp, are questions much agitated. The -learned Anglojibway, Hon. W. W. Warren, historian of his tribe, takes -the latter view, saying: "The word is composed of _o-jib_, 'pucker -up,' and _ub-way_, 'to roast,' and it means, 'to roast till puckered -up.'" Mr. Warren adduces also the name Abboinug, literally Roasters, -given by the Ojibways to the Sioux, from the same horrid practice. He -says that the Ojibways, as a distinct tribe or people, denominate -themselves Awishinaubay. Probably the best account we possess of these -Indians is that given in the Minn. Hist. Coll., V. of which is almost -entirely devoted to the subject (pp. 1-510, 1885). This consists of -Warren's history, based on traditions, and of Neill's, based on -documents. The two thus admirably complement each other, and are -preceded by a memoir of Warren, by J. Fletcher Williams. - -[I-37] Our name of these Siouan Indians comes from their Algonkin -appellation, which reached us through an assortment of French forms -like Ouinipigou (as Vimont, Relation, 1640), etc., several of which -have served as the originals of place-names now fixed in current -usage. The term Puants, meaning Stinkers, was the French nickname. It -is found as Puans, Pauns, Pawns, Paunts, etc., originated very early, -and was much in vogue. On the old map cited in the foregoing note -appears the legend "La Nation des Puans," though these Indians, with -their Green bay, are marked on it N. instead of S. of Lakes Superior -and Huron. The Stinkards gave occasion for a Latin synonym, as seen in -the phrase "Magnus Lacus Algonquiniorum seu Lacus Foetentium" of De -Creux's map, Hist. Canada, Paris, 1664. They were also called Gens de -Mer, Sea People. Jean Nicolet of Cherbourg in France, in the service -of Champlain's Hundred Associates, believed to have been the first -white man to enter Green bay, in July, 1634, calls them by their own -name of themselves, which he renders Ochunkgraw, and which later -acquired a variety of forms: see note 44, p. 39, and Butterfield's -Disc. N. W., 1881, _passim_, esp. p. 38. - -[I-38] Pike did not get far from Dubuque, if he left at 4 p. m. He -probably stopped at the first convenient place to camp above the -bluff, in the vicinity of Little Makoqueta r.--perhaps on the spot -where Sinipi, Sinipee, or Sinope was started. In bringing him up to -Dubuque from the Galena delta we have not much to note: Suisinawa, -Sinsinawa, or Sinsinniwa r., right; Menomonee cr., right, and Catfish -cr., left, between which is Nine Mile isl.; Massey, Ia., town at -Dodge's branch; East Dubuque, Ill., rather below the large city of -Dubuque. This is the oldest establishment in Iowa, as the Canadian -Frenchman Julien Dubuque came there in 1788; extinction of Indian -title and permanent settlement not till 1833; town incorporated 1837; -city charter, 1840; pop. 3,100 in 1850: for the rest, see any -gazetteer or cyclopedia. With this day's journey Pike finishes -Illinois, which has been on his right all the way, and takes Wisconsin -on that side; but Iowa continues on his left. The interstate line runs -on the parallel of 42 deg. 30' N., which cuts through Dubuque. - -[I-39] From Dubuque to Cassville is only 30 m., and Pike was somewhat -advanced beyond Dubuque when he started. "The mouth of Turkey river," -opp. which he camped, is of course a fixed point; and this shows the -required reduction of his "40" miles to somewhat under 30. -Determinations like these would be proof, were any needed, of the -proposition advanced at the start, that the set of mileages with which -we have to deal require a discount of 20 to 25 per cent. as a rule. In -making his "two short reaches," Pike passed his Little Macoketh, the -Little Makoqueta r., on his left, and the extensive slough on his -right which receives the discharges of Platte and Grant rivers. He -maps the former river: see the unnamed stream on the left, where "M^r. -Dubuques Houfe" and "Lead Mines" are lettered. The other two rivers -are not laid down; they run in Grant Co., Wis. Beltrami, II. 196, has -a locality on the W. said to be 16 m. above Dubuque's mines, and to be -called Prairie Macotche, "from the name of a savage who inhabited it." -This item is no doubt imaginary; but Macotche is clearly the same word -as Makoqueta. Pike's "long reach" is the 15 m. or more where the river -is straight; it begins about Specht's Ferry (opp. which the Potosi -canal was dug for an outlet of Grant r.) and extends to Turkey r. On -the left, about halfway along this stretch, is the town of Waupeton -(Wahpeton, Warpeton, etc.), at or near which the boundary between -Dubuque and Clayton cos. strikes the Mississippi; the town of -Buenavista, Clayton Co., Ia., is 31/2 m. higher, between Plum and -Panther crs. On the right a snicarty 11 m. long connects Grant r. with -Jack Oak slough, at the head of which Cassville is situated, at the -mouth of Furnace cr., and obliquely opposite the mouth of Turkey r. -Some places which started along the river have failed, or changed -their names; I do not now find Osceola, which maps mark near the mouth -of Platte r.; nor Lafayette, which started about the present site of -Potosi, and is now marked by some dilapidated chimneys you will -observe when the C., B. and Q. train stops at a sort of station there; -nor Frenchtown and Finlay, both on the Iowan side, the latter at the -mouth of a creek called Bastard on a map of 1857; nor Frankford, at or -near Buenavista; nor Winchester, about the mouth of Turkey r. Whether -by accident or design, Grant r. is lettered "Le Grand R." on -Nicollet's map. The Fox village, whose women and children were so -frightened at the sight of the Americans, is marked by Pike on the N. -side of Turkey r., near its mouth, about where Winchester seems to -have stood. Present Turkey R. Junction of the C., M. and St. P. R. R. -is on the other side. This stream is "Turkies" r. of Beltrami, II. p. -196. - -[I-40] Probably 19 m., Cassville to Clayton, Ia., whence he could go -comfortably for breakfast to Wyalusing, Wis., or still nearer the -Wisconsin r. Above the mouth of Turkey r. the Miss. r. is divided into -two courses, called the Casville slough on the Wisconsin side and the -Guttenberg channel on the Iowan side. The latter is the broadest -course, but the former is, or was some years ago, the main channel. -The two come together 10 m. above Cassville, and a mile or two above -Glen Haven, Wis. Guttenberg, Ia., is 8 m. above Cassville, at the -mouth of Miners, Miner's, or Miners' cr.; it seems to have been -formerly called Prairie La Port, as marked on Nicollet's map. Buck or -Back cr. falls in a mile above. Approaching Clayton the banks are high -and abrupt on the Iowan side, but on the other the hills recede, -leaving a sloughy bottom into which several creeks empty, one of them -Sandy cr., which comes by a sort of sand-bank. In this vicinity there -was a place called Cincinnati, Wis., which seems to have disappeared, -like another called Kilroy, on the Iowan side. Owen's map marks -Killroy, a Clayton Co. map of 1857 has Keleroy, and Nicollet lays down -the sizable creek near which it appears to have been situated, now -known as the Sny Magill. The distance from Clayton to Wyalusing is 3 -m.; thence it is about the same to the Wisconsin r. - -[I-41] R. des Ouisconsins on Hennepin's map, 1683, and thus near the -modern form, though in the plural for the Indians and with _ou_ for -the letter _w_ that the F. alphabet lacks; in Hennepin's text, -_passim_, Ouscousin, Oviscousin, Onisconsin, Misconsin, etc., -according to typesetter's fancy; Ouisconsing, Misconsing, etc., in La -Salle, and there also Meschetz Odeba; Miscou, Joliet on one of his -maps, Miskonsing on another; Ouisconching, Perrot; Ouisconsinc, -Lahontan's map; Ouisconsing, Franquelin's map, 1688; Ouisconsin, -Carver; variable in Pike; Owisconsin and Owisconsing in Beltrami; -Wisconsan, consistently, in Long; Wisconsin in Nicollet, and most -writers since his time. Were it not for La Salle's appearance on the -Illinois r. in 1680, and his sending Hennepin down it to the -Mississippi, when he dispatched Michael Accault and Antoine Auguelle -from Fort Crevecoeur to trade with the Chaas, the Wisconsin would -rank first in historical significance as a waterway to the Mississippi -from the Great Lakes; and such priority of date is offset in favor of -the Wisconsin as the best and most traveled route from the lakes to -points below the Falls of St. Anthony. It was already an Indian -highway when it was first known to the whites, and did not cease to be -such when the paddle was exchanged for the paddlewheel. A pretty full -account of the Fox-Wisconsin route will be rendered beyond in this -work. There are accounts of white settlements, or at least -trading-posts, at Prairie du Chien about 1755; but white men may have -lived in this vicinity, if not upon the spot, long before that, for -Franquelin's map of 1688 locates a certain Fort St. Nicolas in what -appears to be the position of P. du Chien, as well as I can judge. -Moreover, Joliet and Marquette reached the Mississippi r. by way of -the Fox-Wisconsin, June 15th or 17th, 1673. Our most definite -information, however, dates from Oct. 15th, 1766, when Carver came to -the spot. He reached it by the Fox-Wisconsin route, went up the -Mississippi as high as the river St. Francis, wintered 1766-67 up the -St. Peter, returned to P. du C. in the summer of 1767, went up the -Mississippi again to the Chippewa r., and by that river back to the -Great Lakes in July, 1767. He called the place Prairie le Chien; at -the time of his visit it was "a large town containing about 300 -families," with houses well built after the Indian fashion, and a -great trade center for all the country roundabout. Carver also called -the place Dog Plains. This is plain as a transl. of the F., and nobody -doubts what Prairie du Chien denotes; what it connotes, however, or -its actual implication, is another question which has been much -mooted. Pike states elsewhere in this work that the place--which, by -the way, he seldom if ever calls Prairie du Chien, but de Chein, des -Cheins, etc.--was named for Indian_s_ who lived here, known as -Reynards, etc., and would translate this F. nickname either Fox, Wolf, -or Dog; in one place he has Dog's Plain. But Wolf or Dog does not seem -to have been the name used for this tribe, which, when they were not -called Ottagamies (or by some form of that word) were either the -Reynards of the French or the Foxes of the English and Americans. -Beltrami, II., p. 170, has that "it takes its name from an Indian -family whom the first Frenchmen met there, called Kigigad or Dog." The -whole weight of evidence is on the side of a personal name in the -singular number. Long states that P. du C. was named after an Indian -who lived there and was called the Dog. This may bear on Pike's -statement, and the latter may be explicable upon the understanding -that it refers to certain Indians, not necessarily of the Reynard -tribe, who were called Dog Indians, _i. e._, The Dog's Indians. -Nicollet marks the Indian town by the Chippewa name, Kipy Saging; -Schoolcraft renders this Tipisagi, with reference to the treaty of -Prairie du Chien. At the time of Long's 1823 visit the village had -about 20 dwelling-houses besides the stores, most of them old and some -decaying; the pop. was about 150. He located the place as in lat. 43 deg. -3' 31" N., long. 90 deg. 52' 30" W.; magn. var. 8 deg. 48' 52" E. Long -speaks of one Mr. Brisbois, who had long resided there; of Mr. Rolette -of the Am. Fur Co.; and of Augustin Roque, a half-breed and -whole-fraud, to whom we shall refer again. Fort Crawford began to be -built July 3d, 1816, by the troops under the command of -Lieutenant-Colonel William S. Hamilton of North Carolina, who had -attained that rank in the 3d Rifles Feb. 21st, 1814, and who resigned -from the army March 8th, 1817; it would hold four or five companies, -but was a mean establishment, poorly built on a bad site, too near -Rousseau channel and the Kipy Saging slough. Long relates that in 1822 -the fort as well as the village was inundated, so that the water stood -three or four feet deep on the parade ground and ran into the -officers' quarters and the barracks, forcing the garrison to camp for -a month on higher ground. One of the blockhouses of the fort was built -on a mound which was large enough to have supported the whole -establishment, though only the stockade ran up to it. Through the -attentions of Wm. Hancock Clark of Detroit, Mich., I am in possession -of a water-color picture of the fort, roughly but tellingly done by -his illustrious grandfather, William Clark, who with Governor Lewis -Cass effected the important treaty of P. du C., Aug. 19th, 1825. This -measures 18 x 15 inches, and shows a part of the stockade straggling -up to that one of the blockhouses which was on the hill or mound, as -described by Long. The general effect upon the beholder is to suggest -something of a cross between a penitentiary and a stockyard, but -unsafe for criminals and too small for cattle. The remains are extant, -and may be observed about 40 rods W. of the railroad track, half a -mile S. of the station of the C., B. and Q. This Fort Crawford must -not be confounded with the earlier one of the same name, built in 1812 -or sooner, at the N. end of the town, close to Rousseau channel. This -site was near the positions of the two early French settlements, as -distinguished from the later one that grew up S. of the site of the -second Fort Crawford. Our actual settlement, continued on as the -Prairie du Chien of to-day, only dates from 1835 or thereabouts, after -the cessation of Indian hostilities in that quarter; the town is now -the seat of Crawford Co., Wis. It is in the very S. W. corner of the -county, which is separated from Grant Co. by the Wisconsin r. The -bridge across the Mississippi to N. McGregor was built in 1873-74 and -altered in 1888; C., M. and St. P. R. R.; Act of Congr. legalizing, -June 6th, 1874. Notwithstanding its prominent situation, its -distinguished history, and its comparative antiquity, Prairie du Chien -has never amounted to much, and probably never will. There is nothing -the matter with the place--the trouble is with the people. The place -to-day cuts a lesser figure than it did in Pike's time, when it was -our extreme frontier post in that direction, and it continued to be -such until Fort St. Anthony (Snelling) was built. A part of the -difficulty is ecclesiastical; no priest-ridden community can expect to -keep up with the times. Prairie du Chien is an antique curio, -comparing with the rest of Wisconsin very much as Quebec does with -Ontario--and for similar reasons. - -[I-42] The bluff W. bank of the Miss. r., opp. P. du C., was later -called Pike's mountain; which, says Long's MSS. of 1817, No. I, fol. -37, as cited by Keating, 1824, received its name from having been -recommended by the late General Pike, in his journal, "as a position -well calculated for the construction of a military post to command the -Mississippi." But this recommendation is nowhere made in Pike's -journal: it is made in a letter which Pike wrote to General Wilkinson -from P. du C., this date of Sept. 5th, as the above text says, and -which formed in the orig. ed. Doc. No. 2 of the App. to Part I--the -same that covered the Dubuque report. The particular hill that Pike -picked out does not differ from the general range of bluffs which -extend on that side of the river for several miles, all of about the -same elevation. But to be particular, it was that hill which stands -between McGregor and N. McGregor. The original settlement of McGregor -was called in the first instance McGregor's landing. This was 11/2 mile -below N. McGregor, built at the mouth of the creek that comes down by -Pike's mountain. This stream used to be known as Giard or Gayard r. -(latter on Pike's map), and these were common spellings of the name of -a person otherwise known as Gaillard, of mixed French-Indian blood, -said to have been, with Antaya and Dubuque, one of the three first -white settlers at Prairie du Chien, and by Long to have died suddenly -during the latter's expedition up the Wisconsin r. The present name of -the creek is Bloody Run, which may easily have acquired if it did not -deserve the designation in some one or more of the uncounted fierce -collisions of this blood-brued region. But tradition, if not authentic -history, ascribes the origin of the sanguinary title to the Nimrodic -exploits of the celebrated Captain Martin Scott, a mighty hunter who -used to kill so much game in that vicinity that he was said to have -made this stream literally run with blood. But so much used to be told -about Captain Scott--on whom was fathered in those parts the story of -the coon which promised to come down if he would not shoot, elsewhere -connected with the name of Davy Crockett--that the legends concerning -him may pass for what they may be worth. The mouth of this creek is 3 -m. below that of Yellow r., and the boundary between Clayton and -Allamakee cos. strikes the Mississippi between the two, though very -near the mouth of the latter. - -[I-43] See note _antea_, p. 5, where the phrase Cap au Gres is -mentioned. Pike's term Petit Gris, elsewhere Petit Grey, would be -preferably rendered Petit Cap au Gres, in the peculiar system of -phonetics which our Parisian friends are wont to enjoy. This Little -Sandstone bluff extends up the Wisconsin in the direction of -Bridgeport. A small creek which comes down a break in the bluff, and -empties into the N. side of the Wisconsin a mile above its mouth, is -also named Petit Gris or Gres. There was also a Grand Gres in that -vicinity--to judge from a creek I find on some maps by the name of -Grandgris--perhaps the branch of the Wisconsin now known as Kickapoo -r. Pike's recommendation of the Petit Gres as a military site was -never acted upon. - -[I-44] I think Pike never once hits what a grammarian would consider the -proper way to write this phrase. Wherever he happens upon it, the -gender or the number gets awry. The hitch in pluralizing seems to be -because the first _s_ is sounded before the initial vowel of the next -word, but the last _s_ is silent, because the French seldom articulate -their letters at par. _Folle avoine_, literally "fool oat"--a phrase -also reflected in the Latin term _avena fatua_--is the Canadian French -name of the plant known to botanists as _Zizania aquatica_, and to us -common folks as wild rice, wild oats, water-rice, water-oats, Indian -or Canadian rice or oats, etc. My friend Prof. Lester F. Ward, whom I -desired to prepare the botanical definitions for the Century -Dictionary, and who did write them, with the assistance of Mr. F. H. -Knowlton, after the lamented death of Prof. Sereno Watson, Prof. Asa -Gray's successor at Cambridge, defines _Zizania_ as "a genus of -grasses, of the tribe _Oryzeae_. It is characterized by numerous narrow -unisexual spikelets in a long, loose androgynous panicle, each -spikelet having two glumes and six stamens or two more or less connate -styles." This would be news to the Menominees, though these Indians -subsisted so largely upon the seeds of the plant that the French -called them les Folles Avoines, and the English knew them as the -Rice-eaters. This rice grows in profusion in all the lacustrine -regions of the N. W., and is regularly harvested by all the Indians of -that country, to be sold or bartered as well as eaten by them. Its -great size, its purplish spike-like heads when ripe, and its -omnipresence, render it one of the most conspicuous products of the -region. The Indians do not cut the stalk as we reap our cereals, -because the loose grains fall so readily that the easiest way to -gather them is to simply shake or beat them into a canoe. As to the -polyglot council which Pike held with the Puants, we may hope without -believing that the Winnebagoes were deeply impressed by the -combination of New Jersey and Canadian French which fell upon their -ears through the Dakotan tongue. It is true that the Winnebagoes come -of Siouan stock, and so have some linguistic affinity with the Sioux; -but the dialect they acquired is conceded by all philologists to be -peculiar to themselves, and peculiarly difficult to utter. The -Winnebago spoken at this council was probably as different from the -Dakotan as Latin is from its cognate Greek, or even as Pike's French -was from that spoken in Montreal or Paris. The Winnebagoes call -themselves by a name which is rendered Otchagra by Long, Howchungera -by Featherstonhaugh, Hotcangara by Powell; also Ochungarand, -Hohchunhgrah, and in various other ways which authors prefer and -printing-offices permit: see note 37, p. 31. Since Charlevoix they -have been known as Puans, Puants, or Stinkers--and they deserve to be. -Their vernacular is noted for the predominance of the growler or -dog-letter _r_, _litera canina_ of the Latin grammarians. - -[I-45] Billon's Ann. St. Louis, 1804-21, pub. 1888, p. 382, is obviously -in error in stating that Pierre Rousseau embarked with Pike at St. -Louis; for here we have him first hired at P. du C. I know nothing -further of the man; but he is doubtless the one from whom Rousseau -channel of the Miss. r., which runs past P. du C. on the Wis. side, as -distinguished from the main steamboat channel past McGregor on the -Iowan side, derived its name. - -[I-46] Joseph Reinville or Renville was the name of two persons, father -and son, former French-Canadian, latter half-breed by a Sioux squaw of -the village of Petit Corbeau or Little Raven (Kaposia). Long extolls -him for ability and fidelity as an interpreter, remarking that he had -met with few men that appeared "to be gifted with a more inquiring and -discerning mind, or with more force and penetration," Keating, Exp. of -1823, I. p. 312. Reinville naturally acquired great influence over the -Indians, and when the British decided to use such allies in the war of -1812-14, he was selected by Colonel Robert Dickson as the man who -could be most relied upon to command the Sioux. In his military -capacity he received the rank, pay, and emoluments of a captain in the -British army, and distinguished himself as well by humanity as by -gallantry in war. After this he entered the service of the H. B. Co.; -left it, relinquishing also his British pension, and returned to his -old trading-post near the sources of Red r., where he established the -successful Columbia Fur Co. Reinville had that energy and independence -which enabled him to decide for himself and act upon his decisions; he -therefore made bitter enemies as well as warm friends, whose judgments -of his character and conduct were, of course, as diverse as their -feelings for or against him. Reinville was born at Kaposia, near St. -Paul, about 1779, and died in March, 1846: see sketch of his life by -Rev. E. D. Neill in Minn. Hist. Soc. Coll., I., 2d ed. 1872, pp. -196-206. - -[I-47] This Frazer I do not doubt was a relative of the Robert Frazer, -Frazier, Fraser, etc., who accompanied Lewis and Clark. The latter was -a "Green Mountain boy," and it is highly improbable that two unrelated -Frazers came from Vermont to the Western frontiers in the beginning of -this century. But I can only conjecture what their degree of kinship -was. One Joseph Jack Frazer cut a figure in early Minnesota history, -if we may judge from the sketches of his life and adventures which ran -through the columns of the St. Paul Pioneer, about 1866 or 1867, from -the pen of General Henry Hastings Sibley. In this connection I may be -permitted to note the fact, not generally known, that Robert Frazer -was one of several annalists of that famous expedition, who went so -far as to issue a MS. prospectus of a book he was going to publish -about it, with Captain Lewis' own sanction. But this project failed -for lack of subscribers to what any publisher would now be glad to -accept, could the MSS. be found. See Prof. James D. Butler's review of -my L. and C., N. Y. Nation, Oct. 26th and Nov. 2d, 1893. - -[I-48] Pike's was luckier than Long's boat-party of 1823, which started -from P. du C. as Pike did, but did not get much above Yellow r. It -consisted of Thomas Say, the subsequently distinguished naturalist; -Prof. W. H. Keating; Mr. Samuel Seymour, the artist; the rascally -interpreter Roque or Rocque; and Lieutenant Martin Scott, the latter -in command of a corporal and his squad of eight soldiers. These men -tapped a keg of liquor, and got too drunk to navigate--the crew did, I -mean, for it is well known that officers never drink. Yellow r. is -present name of the stream consistently so called since it ceased to -be R. Jaune of the French regime; it has been already mentioned as -falling in on the W., 3 m. above Bloody Run and N. McGregor. Three -miles higher, on the same side, is Paint cr., or Painted Rock cr., -near a place full of historic interest; for at one point along the -almost unbroken bluffs is the steep escarpment which became known to -the F. as Roche Peinte, or Rochers Peints, and which continues to be -called Painted Rock or Rocks, from the Indian pictographs with which -it was adorned for ages. Beltrami gives it as Pointed Rock, II. p. -196. High places of all sorts, whether the elevation be phallic or -terrene, have always been regarded as great medicine by the untutored, -from the days of the priests of Baal, Moloch, or Jahveh, to those of -the similar shamans and marvel-mongers of Lo. Such theological -jugglery is reflected in the present name of Waucon or Waukon -Junction, near the mouth of Paint cr., where the Chic., Dub. and Minn. -R. R., meandering the river, sends the Waukon branch to Waukon, seat -of Allamakee Co., Ia. A town, or something that tried to be one, by -the prosaic name of Johnsonsport, is to be found on some maps at the -mouth of Paint cr. About 4 m. above Waukon Junction is a place called -Harper's Ferry, suggestive of Virginian emigration. The bluffs hug the -Iowan bank closely to Paint cr. The opposite side is low for some -miles back, with sloughs or bayous known as Marais, Courtois, Sioux, -etc., into which drain several creeks, among them one called -Fisher's--no doubt for the gentleman who entertained Pike--and another -named Pickadee; both these are received in Sioux bayou. But above -Paint cr. the channel runs, or recently did run, on the Wisconsin -side, having an intricate snicarty on the other, whose various courses -are known as Seaman's slough, Big Suck-off, Gordon's bay, Martell's -lake, Center, Harper, St. Paul, Crooked, Ferry, etc., sloughs. -Wherever the channel was in Pike's time, he says that he camped on the -W. side, and I suppose at a point about opposite present town of -Lynxville, Crawford Co., Wis., which is reckoned 17 m. above P. du C. -by comparatively recent hydrographers. To reach this place he passed -Trout cr., which falls in on the right hand nearly opp. Painted Rock, -and the site of Viola, at the mouth of Buck cr., also on the right. - -[I-49] Say Island No. 142, or head of No. 143, for a present location -which exactly fits, being on E. side, 4 or 5 m. below mouth of Upper -Iowa r., and opp. De Soto, Wis., on the border of Crawford and Vernon -cos. The camp itself is of little consequence, in comparison with the -notable points passed to reach it, at Pike's Cape Garlic and in that -vicinity. At the head of Harper and Crooked sloughs the channel runs -under the Iowan bluffs to Lansing, Allamakee Co., Ia., 121/2 m. from -Lynxville. On the Wisconsin side for the same distance is a remarkably -labyrinthic snicarty, whose principal run is called Winneshiek slough, -upon which is Ferryville, Crawford Co., Wis., at or near the mouth of -Sugar cr. The series of creeks which fall into these sloughs is as -follows, in ascending order: Kettle, above Polander hollow; Copper, -above Cumming's hollow; Buck (duplicating a name: see last note); the -Sugar cr. just said; and Rush, above Ferryville. The river sweeps -under the bold Iowan headlands, two prominent points of which became -known as Cape Garlic and Cape Winnebago--one from the alliaceous plant -growing there, and the other from the incident about to be cited; -while two of the four streams which fall in through four breaks on -these bluffs were correspondingly called Garlic r. or Cape Garlic cr., -and Winnebago r. or Cape Winnebago cr. Authors differ as to which is -which; I make the following determinations: 1. At the point where the -main channel of the Mississippi divides into Crooked and Harper -sloughs, 8 m. below Lansing, and near where Heytman had his landing, a -large creek falls in. This is properly Garlic r.--the one on which the -town of Capoli is situated. _Capoli_ means Cape Garlic, being a -perversion of the F. Cap a L'Ail--a phrase that has been peculiarly -unlucky at the hands of compositors and engravers; even on Nicollet's -map it stands by accident Cap a' Lail, though the eminent geographer -himself was un Francais de France, whose mother-tongue was academic. -Beltrami, II. p. 197, expands the phrase to Cape a l'Ail Sauvage. 2. -Three miles above the mouth of Capoli cr. a rivulet falls in between -two eminences; the lower one of these is present Capoli bluff, -formerly Cap Puant or Cape Winnebago; the upper one is now called -Atchafalaga bluff, formerly Cap a l'Ail or Cape Garlic; the rivulet -just said is Pike's Garlic r. 3. At 41/2 m. higher, through a recess in -the highlands falls in the stream now called Village cr., which -Nicollet maps as Cape Winnebago cr. This is the one on which the town -of Village Creek is situated, 3 m. up. Its mouth is exactly a mile -below the mouth of Coon or Clear cr., on which Lansing is situated, -under Mt. Hosmer--this "mountain" being that part of the bluffs which -is isolated between the two creeks just said to fall in a mile apart. -With thus much by way of geographical determinations, I must leave to -someone more familiar than I am with the local traditions or actual -history of the place, to identify the exact scene of the following -incident, given in Keating's Long's Exp. of 1823, pub. 1824, I. p. -266: "Two remarkable capes or points were observed on the right bank -of the Mississippi below Iowa river; the lower one is designated by -the name of Cape _Puant_, because at a time when the Sioux and -Winnebagoes (_Puants_) were about to commence hostilities, a party of -the latter set out on an expedition to invade the territory of the -Sioux and take them by surprise; but these being informed of the -design, collected a superior force and lay in ambush near this place, -expecting the arrival of their enemies. As soon as the Winnebagoes had -landed, the Sioux sallied from their hiding-places, pressed upon them -as they lay collected in a small recess between the two capes, drove -them into the river, and massacred the whole party. Garlic cape, just -_above_ [italics mine] this, strikes the voyager by the singularity of -its appearance. In shape it represents a cone cut by a vertical plane -passing through its apex and base; its height is about four hundred -feet." I suppose the "small recess" of this recital to be that between -present Capoli (lower) and present Atchafalaga (upper) bluffs, -respectively former Cape Winnebago (lower) and former Cape Garlic -(upper) bluffs. - -[I-50] La Feuille is a name which Pike rarely, and only by accident, -spells correctly. But in writings of the period it was extremely -variable, being found even as Lefei, Lefoi, Lefoy, La Fye, etc. This -French term commonly appears in English as The Leaf, sometimes Falling -Leaf, and is conjecturally a translation of the native name of the -hereditary chiefs of the Kioxa (Kiyuksa) band of Sioux. This has -usually been rendered Wabasha or Wapasha, and explained as derived -from _wapa_, leaf, and _sha_, red. In one place Long has Wauppaushaw. -In Riggs and Pond's Dakota dictionary the name is given as Wapahasha, -and etymologized as from _wapaha_, a standard, and _sha_, red. In -Minn. Hist. Coll., I. 2d ed. 1872, p. 370, J. Fletcher Williams -surmises the origination of the name in the chieftainship of the -Warpekutes, otherwise Leaf Shooters--though why the tribe was so -called, and whether the English term is a proper version of the -aboriginal name, seem never to have been satisfactorily shown. Such -forms of the chief's name as Wabashaw and Wapashaw, etc., are common, -besides which there are some odd and rare ones; _e. g._, Beltrami, II. -p. 180, has: "The Great Wabiscihouwa, who is regarded as the Ulysses -of the whole nation." Three chiefs named Wabasha are known to us in -history. Wabasha I. was famous during the Revolutionary war. Wabasha -II. was his son, and the latter is the one of whom Pike, Long, -Beltrami, and many others speak. He was already a great chief in -Pike's time, who grew in credit and renown with years. He was seen in -1820 by General Henry Whiting, who describes him as a small man with a -patch over one eye, who nevertheless impressed everyone with respect, -and whose profile was said to resemble that of the illustrious Conde. -"While with us at Prairie du Chien," says Whiting, "he never moved, or -was seen, without his pipe-bearer. His people treated him with -reverence. Unlike all other speakers in council, he spoke sitting, -considering, it was said, that he was called upon to stand only in the -presence of his great father at Washington, or his representatives at -St. Louis." He was not a warrior, believing that Indians could prosper -only at peace with one another and with the whites, and declared that -he had never been at war with the latter, though many of his young -men, against his advice, had been led astray in the war of 1812. His -son, Wabasha III., resided at the village below Lake Pepin until 1853, -and in 1872 was living on the Niobrara Reservation. - -[I-51] To go up to the mouth of Upper Iowa r., for the conference with -Leaf's band of Sioux, who received the Expedition with almost touching -warmth, as Pike goes on to narrate. His map letters "Upper Iowa -River," and marks "Sioux Vill." on the S. side near the mouth. Pike's -text of 1807, p. 7, has Jowa: Beltrami has Yahowa in text, Yawowa on -map: for other forms see note 25, p. 22. The river is a large one -which, with its tributaries, drains a N. E. portion of Iowa and some -adjoining Minnesota land. The river discharges by a set of sloughs in -such intricate fashion that it is not easy to locate its principal -mouth with entire precision, to say nothing of where it was at Pike's -visit; recent hydrographic surveys, on the scale of a mile to the -inch, show the largest opening at a point exactly 21/2 m. S. of the -inter-State line between Iowa and Minnesota, which runs to the -Mississippi on the parallel of 43 deg. 30' N., through the village of New -Albin, on Winnebago cr., and cuts through Lost slough. Assuming this -position, which is probably right within a fraction of a mile, Pike is -precisely opposite the place where was fought the decisive battle of -Bad Axe, notable in history as finishing the second Black Hawk war. -Black Hawk was the most celebrated chief during the Sac and Fox war, -b. about 1768, at the Sac vill. near the mouth of Rock r. in Illinois, -d. on the Des Moines, in Iowa, Oct. 3d, 1838. In the campaign of 1832 -the Indians were defeated on the Wisconsin r. July 21st, by Colonel -Henry Dodge, and again Aug. 2d by General Henry Atkinson. Zach. Taylor -had become colonel of the 1st Infantry Apr. 4th, 1832, and had his -hdqrs. at Fort Crawford, P. du Chien. He moved his forces under -General Atkinson, and caught the Indians opposite the mouth of Upper -Iowa r., as they were preparing to cross the Mississippi; the battle -of Bad Axe was fought, the hostiles were defeated, and their -organization was broken up. Colonel Taylor returned to P. du Chien -with the troops he commanded, and soon afterward received the formal -surrender of the Sac chieftain, whose sagacity was as great as his -courage. Black Hawk was sent by Taylor, with about 60 of his people, -as a prisoner of war to General Winf. Scott, and with some of them was -confined for a while in Fortress Monroe; released June 5th, 1833. The -first stream of any size, on the Wisconsin side, above the scene of -action was named and is still called Bad Axe. A place above Battle cr. -and Battle isl., very near the battle-field, if not actually on the -spot, was started by the name of Victory, which it still bears. This -is directly on the river-bank, at the mouth of a rivulet which makes -in there, about a mile below the spot where one Tippet had his -landing. Tippet's place was nearly opposite the Iowa-Minnesota State -line, and 11/2 m. S. of the lower mouth of Bad Axe r. As the price of -their defeat the S. and F. Inds. were obliged to surrender a large -tract of land, about 9,000 sq. m., along 180 m. of the W. bank of the -Mississippi, and, perhaps, 50 m. broad; this became known as the Scott -or the Black Hawk purchase, and later as the Iowa district; it was -attached to the Territory of Michigan for judicial purposes in 1834, -and the separate Territory of Iowa was made July 4th, 1838. - -[I-52] By the river channel barely over the Iowa State line into Houston -Co., Minn., obliquely opposite Tippet's landing, and about a mile -below the mouth of Bad Axe r., which falls in on the Wisconsin side. -Pike continues to have Wisconsin on his right until he crosses the -mouth of St. Croix r. - -I suspect that the _Upper_ Iowa r., which Pike has just left, has a -longer historical record than that with which it is generally -credited. Franquelin, 1688, maps a large river above the Wisconsin and -below Root r., thus apparently in the position of the Upper Iowa. He -letters Indians on it as Peoueria and Tapoueri. Perrot's Ayoes r. -seems to be the same, as is certainly the Ioua r. of Lewis and Clark's -map, 1814. Long has Little Ioway r. in 1817, and Upper Iaway r. in -1823. - -[I-53] This is not very definite--perhaps Pike forgot to wind up his -watch after the Sioux affair. But we shall be about right to set him -down at Brownsville, Houston Co., Minn.; this is below Root r., which -he passes to-morrow, and within convenient reach of the place, 3 m. -beyond La Crosse, to which he comes on that rainy day. Starting from -the State line, as already said, he first rounds Bad Axe bend, at the -mouth of Bad Axe r., and then comes to the town of Genoa, 81/4 m. above -Victoria. Genoa used to be called Bad Axe; but they do not seem to -have fancied the name, or perhaps the Victorians crowed over them, and -told them stories about George Washington and his little hatchet, so -it was changed. Bad Axe r. is also found with the F. name Mauvaise -Hache: _e. g._, Beltrami, II. p. 178. A mile above Genoa the river -divides in two courses, inclosing an irregularly oval cluster of -islands 61/2 m. long; that on the Minnesota side is Raft channel, which -runs part of the way under bluffs; the one on the Wisconsin side, -which is or was lately the steamboat way, is Coon, Raccoon, or Racoon -slough, with a creek of these names coming in about its middle, 3 and -2 m. above Britt's and Warner's ldgs., respectively. The hills are -some miles back on this side, with a break where Coon cr. comes in, -and so continue all the way to Prairie La Crosse. Brownsville is at -the mouth of Wild Cat cr., 11/2 m. above the place where the two courses -of the river reunite, or rather begin to separate; and this town is 21 -m. by the river-channel above Victoria--for Coon slough is very -crooked. Britt's ldg. became the site of a place called Bergen; and -one by the name of Stoddard is on the slough a little above Coon cr., -about opp. Brownsville. The Wisconsin county line between Vernon and -La Crosse comes to the river between Stoddard and Mormon creeks. - -[I-54] R. aux Racines of the French; Racine or Root r., the latter name -now most used, though in the case of a well-known Wisconsin city the -F. word persists as the name. Nicollet calls it Hokah or Root r., and -so does Owen. The Franquelin map of 1688 marks a certain R. des -Arounoues, which some authors identify with Lahontan's semi-mythical -R. Morte or Longue, and refer both to Root r.; but this is -questionable. Long speaks (I. p. 247) of Root r. as having its Dakotan -name Hoka, and being supposed to be the same as the Riviere Long or -Riviere Morte of Lahontan, I. p. 112, called by Coxe in 1741, p. 19 -and p. 63, Mitschaoywa and Meschaouay. He utterly discredits the -Baron's "180 leagues" of this river, as well as his fabulous nations -"Eokoros," "Essanapes," and "Gnacsitares." Without prejudice to the -perennial question, which it would be a pity to settle now, whether -the Baron was a knave or a fool, or most likely both, it may be -observed that Major Long is mistaken in supposing his Hoka or Root r. -to be the one which Lahontan represents himself to have gone up; for -if he went up any real river, that is Cannon r., as Nicollet urges, -and would clinch his argument by calling it Lahontan r.: see beyond. -Hokah, Racine, or Root r.--to use all three of the sure names--is a -large stream which runs E. through several of the lower tier of -Minnesota counties, and falls in through Houston Co., 31/2 m. directly -S. of La Crosse, though the distance is more than this by the winding -river-channel. Mormon cr. comes into the slough on the Wisconsin side -opposite Root r., immediately below La Crosse prairie. The slough on -the Minnesota side above Root r. is called Broken Arrow--and this, by -the way, is connected with a certain small Target lake; so that no -doubt some actual incident gave rise to both these names. This lake is -the outlet of Pine cr. - -[I-55] Three of Pike's river-miles beyond La Crosse bring him to La -Crescent, Houston Co., Minn., close to the border of Winona Co.--not -that he says he camped on the W. side, but he would naturally select -that side in preference to the other, where the various outlets of La -Crosse and Black rivers make such a snicarty. La Crescent is curiously -so called, apparently in rivalry with La Crosse, and perhaps by some -individual who thought he knew what La Crosse means, and was minded to -suggest by the Turkish emblem that the star of the new place was in -the ascendant and the town bound to grow. Thus far, however, it has -been more of an excrescence from La Crosse than a crescence of itself. -_Crosse_, in French, does not mean "cross," but the game of hockey, -shinny, or bandy, and the crooked stick or racket with which it is -played. Pike describes the game beyond, under date of Apr. 20th, 1806. -The F. word for "crescent" is _croissant_. The beautiful Prairie a la -Crosse was so called by the French because the Indians used to play -ball there when they felt safe; and when the enemy appeared they could -scoop holes in it and scuttle into them in a few minutes. The river -which laves this ball-ground on the N. became La Riviere de la Prairie -a la Crosse, which we naturally shorten into La Crosse r. Pike says la -Cross and le Cross, usually. I have seen it spelled Crose. Lewis and -Clark's map of 1814 letters "Prairie La Crosse R." Long has in one -place Prairie de la Cross. Featherstonhaugh turns the phrase into Ball -Game r. It was probably by accident that Long once gave it as La Croix -r.; for he is careful in his statements, and his editor, Keating, is -scholarly. This slip is particularly unlucky, as it is liable to cause -confusion with St. Croix, name of the large river higher up on the -same side. The city of La Crosse was started on the edge of the plain, -immediately over the river, and gave name to the county of which it -became the seat. Two of the islands which the city faces are Grand and -La Plume, respectively 11/4 and 3/4 m. long. Close above La Crosse r.--in -fact, connected with one of its mouths at the place where the town of -North La Crosse was planted--is Black r. This has a long history. La -Salle speaks of it as R. Noire and Chabadeba [Beaver], in his letter -of Aug. 22d, 1682; R. Noire appears on Franquelin's map, 1688; -Hennepin has it under the Sioux name Chabedeba or Chabaoudeba, and the -like, translated Beaver r. Franqulin locates a certain Butte -d'Hyvernement, or wintering-hill, at the mouth of R. Noire; Menard and -Guerin are said to have ascended the latter in 1661. The most -remarkable things about the mouth of Black r. are the extraordinary -length of its delta and the great changes which this has experienced -within comparatively few years. The waters of Black r., though it is -not a very large stream, have found their way into the Mississippi -from La Crosse upward for 12 m. or more. There are now a number of -openings, though the principal one is the lowermost, nearest La -Crosse. Nicollet, writing about 1840, gives this as the "new mouth" of -the Sappah or Black r. (Sapah Watpa of the Sioux), and calls the next -one Broken Gun channel. This is rendered by F. Casse-Fusils in -Beltrami, II. p. 178, who recites the gun-breaking incident. This -channel now opens opposite the mouth of Dakota cr., which falls in -under Mineral bluff, at a place called Dakota. The main former -debouchment seems to have been at a point about 12 m. direct above La -Crosse, through what is now known as Hammond's chute. In Pike's time -the mouth was evidently high up, for he does not pass it till the -13th. The present (or recent) channel is turbid and sloughy for some -miles up from its contracted opening into the Mississippi, reminding -one of the similar but more pronounced expansion of St. Croix r. above -its mouth. The width of the delta, or its extent sideways from the -Mississippi, averages between 3 and 4 m., inclusive of a higher piece -of ground it incloses, called Lytle's prairie or terrace; this is 41/4 -m. long and 20-30 feet above high-water mark; Half Way cr. comes -around its lower end. The vicissitudes of Black r. may be among the -reasons why exact identification of some places about its mouth in the -early French writers is not easy. Speaking with reserve, and ready to -stand corrected by anyone who knows more than I do about it, I do not -see why the traditional Butte d'Hyvernement may not have been Mt. -Trempealeau. As for the extent of the Black River basin, this is long -enough to begin in Taylor Co., where waters separate in various -directions, and to run through Clark and Jackson cos.; thence the -river separates La Crosse from Trempealeau Co. till it reaches the -town of New Amsterdam; after which the river enters its delta in La -Crosse Co., and the county line runs 5 or 6 m. to the Mississippi on a -parallel of latitude. - -[I-56] From La Crosse to the town of Trempealeau is reckoned 19 m. by -the channel; the mountain is 3 m. further by the same way. Pike was -advanced beyond La Crosse when he started from La Crescent, and his 21 -m. no doubt set him snug under the famous hill whose F. name snagged -him when he reached it. This is not the mountain which "deceives" -(_trompe_) in the water, as by mirage or reflection of itself -reversed; but one which rises so abruptly from the water's edge that -it seems to bathe, or at least to soak its feet, in the water, and was -therefore called by the French la Montagne qui Trempe a l'Eau--a -clumsy phrase which we have reduced to Mt. Trempealeau, Mt. Trombalo, -and various other terms not less curious. There is a notable -assortment of names along the river. On decamping and crossing the -bounds of Houston Co. into Winona Co., Minn., Pike comes to the Rising -Sun--though his course is about N., and we are not informed whether -this name advertises a certain stove-polish, or is meant to throw in -the shade both the Turkish crescent and the Christian cross. E. of -Rising Sun is Minnesota isl., on the Wisconsin side. A few miles -further is a place in Minnesota by the Teutonic name of Dresbach, at -the head of Dresbach's isl.; 11/2 m. further is a town with the Siouan -name Dakota; while E. of these (across the Black r. delta in Wis.) is -a place called Onalaska, suggestive of Captain Cook's voyage to the -Aleutian isls. One Winter used to have his ldg. on the Wis. side, 21/2 -m. above Dakota, and in the vicinity of the place where Black r. -debouched in Pike's time--Winter's ldg. being a singular verbal -coincidence, almost like a pun upon the old name of hibernation (Butte -d'Hyvernement), which appears on the earlier pages of Mississippian -history. At 3 m. above Winter's ldg. stands Richmond, which was -established under Queen's bluff on the Minn. side. Both of these names -suggest English Colonial history of the times when a certain country -was named Virginia--certainly not to quiz one of the greatest women who -ever graced a crown, but to emphasize a diplomatic euphemism. The -"highest hill" in this vicinity is Queen's bluff, also known as Spirit -rock--not that called Kettle hill by Long in 1817; its elevation was -determined by Nicollet to be 531 feet, but was reduced to 375 feet by -later measurements. The town of Trempealeau, in the Wis. co. of that -name, is midway between Richmond and the mountain; but before Pike -reached the latter, he passed on his left the site of Lamoille, Minn., -built under the bluff, about 300 feet high, between two creeks whose -names are Trout and Cedar. It is really wonderful how much history is -hidden--or revealed--in mere names. Personal and local words are the -most concrete facts of history. If, for example, those which appear in -this paragraph were set forth at full length in proper historical -perspective, we should have a perfect panorama of scenes and incidents -along 20 m. of the river for 200 yrs. The myrionymous molehill on the -river, which has been dignified by the name of a mountain because there -are no mountains to speak of in Wisconsin or Minnesota, and which has -been belittled by a set of phrases so absurd that it could not be further -ridiculed if one were to call it Mt. Trombonello, or Mt. Trump Low, or -Mt. Tremble Oh, or Mt. Soak-your-feet-in-mustard-water-and-go-to-bed-oh, -has not only conferred titles on a town and a county in Wisconsin, but -also on the river which washes its foot, and which is known by one of -the most unique circumlocutory phrases to be found in geographical -terminology: La Riviere de la Montagne qui Trempe a l'Eau, of the -French; River of the Mountain, etc., Pike; Mont. q. t. a l'E. r., -Owen; Mountain Island r., Nicollet; Bluff Island r., Long--and so on -through all the chimes that can be rung out of paraphrase. It is now -usually called Trempealeau r., and forms the boundary between this and -Buffalo cos. The Sioux name of the mountain is rendered Minnay -Chonkahah, or Bluff in the Water, by Featherstonhaugh. A more frequent -form of this is Minneshonka. The Winnebago name is given as -Hay-me-ah-chan or Soaking mountain in Hist. Winona Co., 1883. The -island on which the mountain rests has a corresponding series of -names. - -Pike passed to-day the place where was once situated an old French -fort, which has lately been unearthed alongside the Chic., Burl. and -N. R. R. The site is on the S. half of the S. E. quarter of Section -20, Township 18 N., Range 9 W., 13/4 m. above the village, and 11/2 m. below -the mountain, of Trempealeau. It was discovered by T. H. Lewis, July, -1885, and by him examined in Nov., 1888, and again in Apr., 1889: see -his article, Mag. Amer. Hist., Sept., 1889, and separate, 8vo. p. 5, -with three cuts, and postscript dated Feb. 22d, 1890. See also T. H. -Kirk, Mag. Amer. Hist., Dec., 1889, article entitled, "Fort Perrot, -Wisconsin, established in 1685, by Nicholas Perrot," with reference to -the evasive Butte d'Hyvernement, or wintering-hill of the Franquelin -map, 1688. The separate of Mr. Lewis' article is entitled, "Old French -Post at Trempeleau, Wisconsin." "Fort Perrot," as a name of this -establishment, must not be confounded with the one often so called on -Lake Pepin. - -[I-57] A meaningless phrase as it stands, and one open to various -rendering, as L'Aile, L'Ail, or L'Ile. Pike's text of 1807, p. 12, has -L'aile; Long's of 1807, as printed in Minn. Hist. Coll., II. Part 1, -2d ed. 1890, p. 175, has Aux Aisle; Beltrami's, II. p. 180, gives aux -Ailes. "The site of Winona was known to the French as La Prairie Aux -Ailes (pronounced O'Zell) or the Wing's prairie, presumably because of -its having been occupied by members of Red Wing's band," Hist. Winona -Co., 1883. It is easily recognized by Pike's vivid description: see -next note. Long, _l. c._, calls it "an extensive lawn," and notes the -situation on it in 1817 of an Indian village, whose chief he calls -Wauppaushaw by a rather unusual spelling of the native name of La -Feuille. Forsyth, 1819, names it Wing prairie. - -[I-58] From his camp in the vicinity of Trempealeau and Lamoille towns, -a little below the Mountain which, etc., Pike makes it 21 m. to-day -and 25 m. to-morrow to a point opp. the mouth of Buffalo r. He is -therefore to-day a little short of halfway between Trempealeau and -Alma. From Trempealeau to Fountain City is 20 m. by the channel; from -Fountain City to Alma is 22 m. Pike camps to-day at Fountain City, -Buffalo Co., Wis., immediately below the mouth of Eagle cr. The island -at the head of which he breakfasted, and where Frazer's boats came up, -was No. 75, which separates the Homer chute, also called Blacksmith -slough, from the rest of the Mississippi. Though narrow, this is, or -lately was, the steamboat channel. Opposite is town of Homer, Winona -Co., Minn., under Cabin bluff (most probably Kettle hill of Long). At -11/2 m. above Homer, on the same side, is the town of Minneopa. Here the -bluffs recede from the river; here Pike left his boats for an -excursion on the hills. The "Prairie Le Aisle," which he first -crossed, is in Burris valley. The highest point of the hills which he -ascended for his prospect is called the Sugarloaf. Standing there -to-day, we overlook Winona, seat of the county, and at the foot of the -hills between us and the town is Lake Winona, nearly 2 m. long, -discharging into Burris Valley cr. Looking E. from the Sugar-loaf, -down-river, we perceive that the Mountain which, etc., is simply a -point of the bluffs which stands isolated in the delta of Trempealeau -r. To our left of it as we look, and beyond it eastward, stretches the -high prairie between the delta just said and that of Black r. Rambling -further along the hills back of Winona we come to Minnesota City, at a -break in the bluffs through which a rivulet finds its way into Crooked -slough. From this spot Fountain City is in full view, 31/2 air-miles off -on a course N. by E., under Eagle bluff, on the other side of the -river. A portion of these bluffs is probably that called Tumbling Rock -by Forsyth in 1819. We could keep along the hills till they strike the -river about 5 m. further. But Mr. Frazer is anxious to get back to the -boats; very likely Bradley and Sparks are also. So we descend into the -bottom from Minnesota City, flounder across some sloughs, and on -reaching the W. bank of the Mississippi, we signal to our men to come -over in a canoe and ferry us to Fountain City. - -[I-59] Fountain City to Alma, 22 m. Camp opp. Alma, in Wabasha Co., -Minn., amid the intricacies of the Zumbro delta. For many miles above -and below this place--from Chippewa r. down to Winona, say 40 m.--the -Father of Waters, like the father of Shem, Ham, and Japhet, if we can -credit the chronicles of that ancient mariner, gets himself in very -bad form. He reels along as if he would like to take both sides of the -bluffs at once. Great skill has been shown by engineers in trying to -steer him in the way he should go; much money has been spent in -throwing out jetties like friends at each elbow of the staggering -patriarch, to mend his ways; some of his worst lurches have been -dammed as a matter of necessity, and all of them have been otherwise -objurgated as a matter of course by every steamboat captain. The late -General G. K. Warren, who was intrusted with the responsible duty of -surveying the river with reference to the improvement of navigation, -makes a most accurate observation in his preliminary Rep., Ex. Doc. -No. 57, 2d Sess. 39th Congr., p. 19: "It is often remarked, 'What a -slight thing will cause a change of the river.' But it is erroneous to -infer from this that it is easy to make it change as we wish. Effects -are often accumulating unobserved during a state of unstable -equilibrium. A slight cause then disturbs this, and marked changes -take place. But it is exceedingly superficial to attribute the whole -effect to this last cause." In consequence of the great changes in the -river, both natural and artificial, since the days of Pike, we must -not assume the present or quite recent details to be those of Pike's -time; nor should we presume to speak censoriously regarding the -identification of such things as Carver's supposed fortifications of -1766-67. Within the bounds of the solid, if not eternal hills, through -which the water has excavated its trough, we have the great river safe -enough. But these bounds are some miles apart, and between them all is -in the "unstable equilibrium" of which the eminent engineer just cited -speaks. The result is incessant shiftiness or shiftlessness, not only -as regards the sloughy bottoms and snicarties themselves, but in -respect of the sands which accumulate in various places and form banks -or terraces which sometimes take such shapes as to be easily mistaken -for artificial mounds. The cardinal principle of sound archaeology is -to assume every mound to be a natural formation until it is proven to -be the work of man. One of the most notable historical instances in -point is that of the "fortifications" at Bon Homme, on the Missouri -r., which deceived even so accurate an observer as Captain Clark: see -L. and C., ed. 1893, p. 103, _seq._, and pl. Some of the present or -quite recent water-ways in the vicinity of Fountain City are those -known as Pap chute, Betsy, Haddock, and Rollingstone sloughs, -Horseshoe bend, and Fountain City bay, into which Eagle cr. falls, -under Eagle bluff. The hills then come to the river on the Minnesota -side, and so continue past Mt. Vernon to Minneiska. One of the boldest -of these headlands is called Chimney Rock. Some have an altitude of -450 feet. On the other side the bluffs recede above Fountain City, -break to give passage to Eagle c., start again about 21/2 m. from the -river, and thence upward approach gradually till they strike the river -at Alma. The space between these hills and the river bottom is partly -filled by a sand terrace for about 9 m., with an average width of a -mile. On the edge of the upper one of these banks is Buffalo City, 2 -m. above which a place was started by the name of Belvidere. The -boundary between Winona and Wabasha cos. comes on a parallel of -latitude to the river at Minneiska, a town named for the river at -whose mouth it is situated, under high bluffs, facing the lower part -of Summerfield or Summerfield's isl., which is 4 m. long. This river -is Pike's "Lean Clare," clearly by typographical error, as he -elsewhere has Riviere l'Eau Clair, almost right, and correctly -translates the phrase by Clear r. and Clear Water r. This is also -White Water r. of Long and others, at present the usual alternative -name of Minneiska r.; Miniskon r., Nicollet; Miniskah r., Owen; -Minneska r., Warren; and so on with the forms of the Indian word. -Clear r. comes into the bottom between the Minneiska bluffs and a -certain isolated hill to the northward, in the vicinity of which Clear -r. is still or was lately connected with one of the lowest sluices of -the Zumbro r. This last is what Pike calls riviere Embarrass (river -Embaras, ed. 1807, p. 13). The French named it Riviere aux Embarras, -from the difficulty they found in attempting to navigate it, and we -have made Zumbro out of this embarrassment. Nicollet calls it Wazi Oju -r., in which he is followed by Owen and others. Its delta extends -practically from Minneiska to Wabasha, a distance of 20 m. by the -Mississippi channel. The opening which Pike takes as the mouth is the -lower one, as he passes it before camping opp. Alma. This delta -incloses one long, narrow sand terrace, continuous for 9 m., and -several similar but smaller banks, as well as an extensive system of -sloughs and islands. The West Newton chute and accompanying islands -are among these; and Pike's camp was at the head of this chute, -directly opposite Alma and the mouth of Buffalo r. The history of this -river dates back to 1680 at least: R. des Boeufs, Hennepin, map, -1683; River of Wild Bulls, Hennep., Engl. transl.; Boeufs R., -Lahontan, map; Buffaloe or Buffalo r., Pike, Long, Nicollet, Owen, -etc.; Beef r., Warren and others; _cf._ also, R. de Bon Secours of the -early F. writers, whence Good Help r. by translation. Some connect the -two names, as R. des Boeufs ou de Bon Secours, as if the supply of -beef had been a great relief. There were plenty of buffaloes on this -part of the Mississippi in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, -and indeed down to some early years of our own. But they were -exterminated or driven off soon after Fort St. Anthony (Snelling) was -built in 1819. Fort St. Antoine appears in earliest connection with -the river. Its own mouth has no doubt been fixed since prehistoric -times by the solid Alma bluffs around which it sweeps into the -Mississippi. But the delta of Chippewa r., whose main discharge is by -a contracted opening 91/2 direct miles above the mouth of Buffalo r., -extends between these two points, and is meandered by the intricacies -of Beef slough, which such competent professional opinion as Warren's -pronounces to have once divided the main Chippewa: Ex. Doc. No. 57, -etc., p. 13. "The Chippeway river had a large lateral gorge like that -of the St. Croix to fill up before reaching the valley of the -Mississippi, and it now joins the Mississippi by a very complete set -of delta streams, beginning about 15 miles above its mouth. There was -a time when the mouth now known as Beef slough was about equal to the -main Chippeway. In their growth each kept along the bluffs or sides of -the gorge they were filling up, raising their immediate banks and -leaving a depression between them. The bank which the present -Mississippi finally put across the delta was not then there, and large -trees grew up on this intermediate space. The delta having finally -reached the Mississippi, the water was more rapidly raised in Lake -Pepin. This intermediate space was closed up on its third side by the -new forming bank of the Mississippi, and became a lake. The trees in -it then perished, and their submerged parts, preserved by the water, -remain standing in the lake at this time [July 31st, 1865]. This place -is known as Stump lake, and this name it bore among the aboriginal -Sioux (Chan-poksa-m'de). The lower of these two delta mouths became -obstructed and dammed up by the new forming banks of the Mississippi; -the lower part of it then filled up, and it finally broke through its -own banks into Stump lake, so that it now issues therefrom in several -much obstructed channels, almost entirely useless to navigation.... -The Trempealeau and Black rivers repeat the operation of the Chippeway -on a smaller scale, the Wisconsin probably on a greater, other streams -doing the same in proportion to their size." In this view of Beef -slough as an obstructed channel of the Chippewa, Beef or Buffalo r. is -simply an affluent of the Chippewa, precisely as the Minneiska is of -the Zumbro, or La Crosse of Black r.; and other such cases of -originally distinct rivers falling into the Mississippi as one by -their deltopoetic processes could easily be cited. - -[I-60] "Grand Encampment" is a phrase in use since Carver's Travels -first appeared. Carver first came to Lake Pepin Nov. 1st, 1766. Those -who wish to verify the fact will find it on p. 34 of the Phila. ed. of -1796, which is commoner and therefore more accessible than any of the -earlier ones; the London princeps, 1778, is a rare book; the place is -p. 54 of this ed. On p. 35, Carver says the place was "some miles -below Lake Pepin." This left the location in the air, especially as he -does not say which side of the river; and various authors have raised -such a fog about it that we might be excused if we failed to find it -anywhere. By Pike as above, the place is between Buffalo r. and -Chippewa r.; he starts late, noons on the spot, and gets into Lake -Pepin at dusk. On his return voyage, Apr. 15th, 1806, he stops at the -place; he makes it on the right (west) bank, 9 m. below Lake Pepin. -When Long comes by, in 1823, his boat-party camps opposite the mouth -of Buffalo r., just as Pike did yesterday; on the 30th of June they -find themselves "a few miles" below L. Pepin, and much concerned to -discover Carver's "fortifications": see Keating, I. pp. 276-78. The -upshot of their long discussion is the conclusion that Carver did -really see what he says he saw, but that the works he described were -not at the Grand Encampment, where they found no fortifications. But -this is clearly a non sequitur, or a lucus a non, or a petitio -principii, or an argumentum ad hominem, or whatever may be the logical -definition of an illogical syllogism. It misses the point. The -question is not one of identifying Carver's locality; the question is -whether what he saw there was an artificial work or a natural -formation. The place can be pointed out with the point of a pin stuck -through the map, provided the topography has not changed too much for -that during the century; for the point which now points to Carver's -location is Point Teepeeota of the U. S. survey chart. The point -above, at which Major Long's boat-party landed an hour or two later -that day, and "which appeared to correspond with the description" of -Carver's place, though "their search here was likewise unsuccessful" -(p. 278), is the present site of Wabasha--the place where Nicholas -Perrot is thought to have landed in 1683, and built a log fort, the -first thing of the kind in all that country, afterward marked on some -maps as Fort Perrot. Teepeeota pt. is the projecting end of the long -narrow sand-drift or sand terrace already mentioned as extending 9 m. -or more in the delta of the Zumbro; it strikes the Mississippi -immediately below the Middle mouth of the Zumbro, and in fact -determines the position of that opening. Teepeeota pt. is 41/2 m. direct -above Alma, somewhat more than 5 m. by the channel; it is 3 m. direct -below Wabasah, a little more by the channel; it is 6 m. below the -upper mouth of Chippewa r., say 7 by the channel. The Indian name -would be more correctly rendered Tipiotah--_tipi_ meaning a lodge or -dwelling (such as is called "wigwam" in novels, but seldom so on the -spot) and the rest of the word denoting multitude; the paper-town -there, called Tepeeotah City, went up in smoke, 1859. The island off -Teepeeota pt., but a little lower down, is now called Grand Encampment -isl. Of the accuracy of this identification I do not see how there can -be any question, though time has modified the contour details in the -course of nature, as well as in the course of the engineering work -done there of late years. These fortifications of the river against -its own sands are doubtless the only ones of any magnitude that have -ever been made on the spot, before or since Carver; though there was -nothing to hinder the Sioux from scooping holes in the sand-drift and -scuttling into them when the Chippewas came in sight, as we know they -did at Prairie La Crosse and elsewhere. Under these circumstances, I -think the gentlemen of Major Long's party were as unjust to themselves -in doubting their own identifications (in which they were supported by -Hart, Rolette, and others who knew about the place), as they were to -Carver in saying, p. 277: "No gentleman of the party would be willing -to ascribe to Carver a scrupulous adherence to truth, (personal -observation having convinced them all of the many misrepresentations -contained in his work)." If this is meant to charge Carver with -willful misrepresentation, I think it is unjust as well as ungenerous. -Carver mistook a natural for an artificial work--so did William Clark, -to the extent of drawing one to a scale and describing it in the terms -of military science--so have done many professional archaeologists. -Carver made mistakes, like the rest of us; he was often loose about -distances, dimensions, and such things; he believed more things that -were told him than a less honest and more wary wayfarer would have -taken to be true; but I think that he drew a short bow for so long a -journey, had no occasion to deceive anyone but himself, and always -intended to tell the truth as it seemed to him--in short, I do not see -how his good faith can be seriously questioned. I accept Carver's -statements, as I do those of Pike, Long, and other honest persons, for -what they may prove to be worth. - -[I-61] R. des Sauteurs, etc., of the French, _i. e._, River of the -Chippewas, with all the uncounted variations of the latter word, from -such forms as Ouchipouwaictz to the present Chippewa, Chippeway, or -Chipeway. Pike's 1807 text has Sautiaux r., p. 13. Beltrami has -Cypewais in text, Cypoway on map. Present usage among geographers -favors two _p's_ and no _y_; the ethnologists incline rather to -Ojibwa. This one of the major tributaries of the Mississippi now falls -in by its main upper mouth 11/2 m. below the end of Lake Pepin, from the -N., nearly at a right angle; it is somewhat bottle-nosed--that is, -with a contracted orifice of a turgid body of water, though the -dilation is not so great as in the case of the St. Croix. The general -character of the delta has been already discussed in connection with -Beef slough. Pike has this on his right all the way from Alma to L. -Pepin. On his left he passes Grand Encampment isl. and dines near -Point Teepeeota, already described as the point of that sandbank I -should wish to call Carver's Terrace. He next comes to Wabasha, seat -of the Minnesota county of that name, so called from the celebrated -Sioux chief of whom we read much in Long, I. p. 272, and elsewhere; -his name is there spelled Wapasha, and his village was at that time -not on this spot, but lower down (Winona). The site of Wabasha -duplicates the situation at Point Teepeeota; it is in the Zumbro -delta, below the Upper Zumbro outlet, on the point of a sand-bank -identical in formation with Carver's Terrace, though much -smaller--under 3 m. in length, and less than a mile wide. Passing -Wabasha, Pike comes 2 m. to the town now called Read's Landing, at the -uppermost point of the Zumbro floodplain, almost opposite the mouth of -Chippewa r. Nicollet marks "Roques," _i. e._, Augustin Rocque's -trading-house, in about the right position, _i. e._ at present site of -Wabasha, where Rocque's old chimney was evidence in 1884. This person, -whose last name might be spelled with a _g_ as well as his first, very -likely lived on more than one spot in the course of his career. -Featherstonhaugh informs us that "Ruque's" Indian name was -Wajhustachay, and that his house stood on the edge of a high prairie, -50 feet from the water, at S. E. end of L. Pepin, right bank, opp. -Chip. r.; which fits in only with the site of present Read's Landing. -Here the C., M. and St. P. R. R. bridged the Miss. r. in '82 (Act of -Congr., Mar. 28th, '82). As indicated in an earlier note, the Chippewa -is one of the main waterways between the Mississippi and the Great -Lakes; the connection will be more particularly noted hereafter. -Carver went this way in June or July, 1867, after he had wintered up -the St. Peter. For some distance from its mouth this river separates -Pepin from Buffalo Co. - -[I-62] Apparently a misprint: Alma to Read's Landing, near the foot of -Lake Pepin, 12 m. by the crooked channel; thence to Wakouta, near the -head of the lake, is only 25 m., and Pike is not yet halfway through. -He says himself that he made 3 m. further to Sandy pt., and then 18 m. -up to Cannon r. He undoubtedly ran for shelter from the gale at or -near Stockholm, Pepin Co., Wis. The channel is or has lately been -along the Minnesota side to Lake City, crossing obliquely to the other -side in passing Stockholm, then leaving for the Minn. side to reach -Point No Point, and so on up this side to Wakouta, Red Wing, and -Cannon r. "_Le lac est petit, mais il est malin_": I faithfully copy -this venerable Jo Miller, and am ready to agree that the lake is not -big, but bad. It is reckoned about 21 m. long, averaging about 21/2 -broad; thus it is merely a dilation of the Mississippi, like that of -the St. Croix and some other Mississippian tributaries, though on a -larger scale. The Chippewa r. was concerned in the formation of Lake -Pepin, and the two have had some reciprocal effect. General Warren's -opinion may be here cited, Ex. Doc. No. 57, 1866-67, p. 11: "In order -to better understand the formation of the present bottom-land valley, -and comprehend the existing state of things, we must go back to the -time when, by the elevation of the continent above the ocean, the -present rivers, like the Wisconsin and Chippeway, began to flow into -the channel formed by the present Mississippi bluffs. As soon as the -sediment brought down by their waters had filled up the lateral chasm -by which they joined the Mississippi, this sediment would begin to -obstruct the flow of the Mississippi water, force its channel to the -opposite side, and narrow and dam it back till the water gained -sufficient force to carry the sediment down the valley. The continual -sorting out of this sediment would leave the heavier particles behind, -so that this bar would continually increase in elevation and form a -lake above. There are evidences of the effect of the Wisconsin in -making such a dam in the neighborhood of Prairie du Chien, also by -other affluents above their mouths, which lakes have since been filled -up. In the case of the Chippeway and Lake Pepin this effect still -remains, the affluents above the Chippeway not having been able to -fill up the lake which was formed. It seems almost impossible to doubt -that this is the origin of Lake Pepin, and there are evidences in the -shape of the sand and boulder spits along the Mississippi bluffs above -Lake Pepin, such as are only formed now in it and Lake St. Croix, -which indicate that the lake formerly extended up much higher than -now.... The river now enters Lake Pepin by three principal mouths, and -the land of the delta gently slopes down to and under the water. It -has advanced very slowly, if at all, since first visited by white men. -The largest sized cottonwood trees, dying of old age, are found on the -islands within two miles of the head of the lake. The small willows on -the low and extreme points seem of an almost uniform size and age; and -are small more, perhaps, from the unfavorable condition in which they -are placed than from want of time to grow since the land was formed. -The bottom in the shoal places at the head of Lake Pepin is composed -of soft mud, and not of sand. It seems probable that nearly all the -other islands of the Mississippi were formed in similar lakes by -advancing deltas, until finally the lakes were filled up. Lake Pepin -has almost no current, and deepens gradually down to near the point of -entrance of the Chippeway, and then rapidly shoals and narrows to form -again the flowing river." Lake Pepin is curved on itself, more so than -the old-fashioned Italic letter _{~LATIN SMALL LETTER LONG S~}_, -there being a bend in the middle -reach which is oblique between the straight and approximately parallel -reaches at the two ends--say W. N. W. and E. S. E., then N. and S., -then nearly W. and E. The lake nearly fills the space between the -bluffs in which it is embedded, but there are several pieces of arable -bottom-land in places where the bluffs recede, furnishing the sites of -a corresponding number of settlements, mostly at points where creeks -or brooks fall in between gaps in the hills. Such are Pepin and -Stockholm, Pepin Co., Wis.; Maiden Rock City and Bay City, Pierce Co., -Wis.; Lake City, Wabasha Co., Minn.; Florence, Frontenac, and Wakouta -or Wacouta, Goodhue Co., Minn. Maiden Rock City is under the line of -bluffs, about 400 feet high, to several of which the Winona legend -attaches; but this town is at the mouth of Rush cr., and thus nearly 5 -m. by the railroad above that bluff to which the names of Maiden's -Rock, Maiden's Head, and Lover's Leap more particularly belong. This -is directly opposite Sandy point, and only about 2 m. by rail above -the village of Stockholm; being that one of the series of quite -similar bluffs which has a remarkable vertical escarpment, at a point -where there is little room to spare for the track between the talus at -its foot and the lake shore. A good view is obtained as the cars -recede from it. Rush cr. is mapped both by Pike and by Nicollet, -without name; it seems to be that called Porcupine-Quill cr. by -Schoolcraft, and is perhaps Marchessau r. of Featherstonhaugh. A -similar stream, also mapped by Pike and by Nicollet, without name, and -now known as Pine or Mill Pine cr., falls in 11/2 m. below Rush cr. -Three other small streams, known as Bogus cr., Lost cr., and Roaring -r., fall in below Stockholm on the Wisconsin side; on which side, near -the head of the lake, at the place called Bay City, is Isabel cr. (the -Clear Water cr. of Nicollet, and perhaps the Rocher Rouge r. of -Featherstonhaugh). On the Minnesota side a creek falls in below and -another above Lake City; Wells cr. (the Sandy Point cr. of Pike, and -the Sand Point r. of Nicollet), falls in at the point indicated by -these names, a mile or more below Frontenac; while at Wacouta we find -a stream mapped by Nicollet without name, formerly called Bullard's -and now known as Ida cr. The most prominent part of the Minnesota -shore, where the channel sweeps around the convexity of the bold -headland, is fittingly called Point No Point--as the up-bound -passenger discovers when the boat rounds it. This is immediately above -Frontenac, opp. Maiden Rock City, and about the junction of the middle -with the upper reach of the lake. This body of water is between two -States and four counties. The line between Pepin and Pierce cos., -Wis., strikes it at or near Maiden Rock City; that between Wabasha and -Goodhue, Minn., comes to the lake below Frontenac, about Lake City. - -Lake Pepin is commonly said to have been "discovered by Hennepin" in -1680. This statement is exactly one-third right and two-thirds wrong, -and does a double injustice, because it ignores two of the three white -men who were simultaneously on the spot. These were: 1. Michael -Accault, the bourgeois or leader of the party, who afterward -flourished under the style of Le Sieur d'Accault, d'Acau, d'Ako, -Dacan, etc. 2. His man Antoine Auguelle, commonly called Le Picard, or -Picard du Gay. 3. His ecclesiastical functionary Louis Hennepin, a -monk of the Franciscan order, whom La Salle got rid of by sending him -along with Accault and Auguelle, when this Chaas trading-party started -from Fort Crevecoeur on the Illinois r., Feb. 29th, 1680; they -reached the Miss. r. at the mouth of the Illinois, Mar. 7th, 1680, and -came to Lake Pepin in June of that year. It is a pity that the -reverend father's vanity, servility, and envy prevented him from -sticking to his ghostly trade; but he was ambitious of authorship, -like many another religious worldling, and jealous of La Salle. So he -set about a book for the glory of a trinity composed of Louis -Hennepin, Louis XIV., and God. It has made much trouble for -geographers and historians, who would willingly have waited for all -the information that it contains till this should have been imparted -by some less bigoted, less bombastic, and more veracious chronicler -than this Recollect priest, who recollected a good many things that -never happened, and forgot some of those that did occur. Hennepin is -the able philologist who discovered that the Indians called their -solar deity by the name of the then King of France, and who followed -up this discovery by naming the whole country Louisiana. He is the -same unscrupulous courtier who represents the king's arms to have been -cut in the bark of an oak west of Lac des Assenipoils, ca. lat. 60 deg. -N.: see his map, place marked "Armes du Roy telle quel^le sont -grauee sur l'escorce d'vn Chesne a lendroit marque--A". The tree may -be there yet, but the monk never was. Lahontan's fables are -entertaining, like La Fontaine's; Hennepin's are a bore. When this -little Louis is not wheedling the great Louis, he is apt to be -whining; he was troubled with gumboils, from dental caries, and did -not always remember the excellent injunction he received from Father -Gabriel--_viriliter age et comfortetur cor tuum_; which an Englishman -might freely render, "Be a man and keep your courage up." This -missionary lachrymosely named the lake, to which Accault, Auguelle, -and himself were taken by the Indians, Lac des Pleurs, a phrase which -appears in Engl. transls. of his book as Lake of Tears, "which we so -named," as Shea's text reads, p. 198, "because the Indians who had -taken us, wishing to kill us, some of them wept the whole night, to -induce the others to consent to our death"--_hinc illae lacrymae_. -Hennepin, by the way, says further, _ibid._: "Half a league below the -Lake of Tears, on the south side, is Buffalo river." This would make -R. aux Boeufs = Chippewa r.: see note 59, p. 58, for some -bearings on the case. The obscurity of the origin of the name Lake -Pepin has not been cleared up, so far as I know. Lesueur came here -Sept. 14th, 1700, and "Pepin" is found in La Harpe's MS. relation of -Lesueur's journey of July 12th-Dec. 13th, 1700. It is unlikely that -this name, by whomever given, was bestowed with direct reference to -any person of the Carlovingian dynasty; they were all dead and gone -ages before the lake was discovered, when nobody but historical -researchers took any interest in those defunct monarchs. St. Croix's -and St. Pierre's rivers were certainly named for contemporaneous -individuals, and so probably was Lake Pepin. There were a number of -Frenchmen by the name of Pepin, Papin, etc., in the country in later -years, and some one or more of them may have come before 1700. Carver -first came here Nov. 1st, 1766; he notes the remains of an old F. -factory, "where it is said Capt. St. Pierre resided." Old Ft. St. -Antoine may have been on the lake rather than at the mouth of R. des -Boeufs ou de Bon Secours; and the lake was once called Lac de Bon -Secours, or Bonsecours, a phrase which has been translated Lake Good -Help and Lake Relief. Fort Beauharnois was built on the lake, after -Sept. 17th, 1727, when La Perriere du Boucher landed on Pointe au -Sable or elsewhere; the exact site is unknown. This was an extensive -and substantial structure, and was named in honor of the then Governor -of Canada; it included a mission-house which the ecclesiastical -functionaries of Boucher's outfit called St. Michael, after an -archangel of that denomination. This was the fourth French -establishment; the other three having been Fort L'Huillier, 1700, -built by Lesueur, on the Blue Earth r., a branch of St. Pierre's; the -fort on Isle Pelee, below Hastings, by Lesueur also, in 1695; and the -fort below the foot of Lake Pepin, at or near present Wabasha, built -by Perrot, 1683. - -[I-63] To a position 11/2 m. below present Frontenac, Goodhue Co., Minn., -about the mouth of Sand Point r. of Nicollet, now called Wells cr.; -this is below present Point No Point, and Frontenac is between. The -county was named by the Legislative Assembly of Minnesota, in 1853, -for James M. Goodhue, b. Hebron, N. H., Mar. 31st, 1810, came to St. -Paul, Minn., Apr. 18th, 1849, founded the Pioneer newspaper, d. 8.30 -p. m., Friday, Aug. 27th, 1852: see his obit. by E. D. Neill, Minn. -Hist. Soc. Coll., I (orig. ed. 1850-56), 2d ed. 1872, pp. 245-53. - -[I-64] Pike calls him Murdock Cameron on Apr. 12th: see that date; text -of 1807 has Mordock Cameron, p. 59 and p. 64: see also L. and C., ed. -1893, pp. 239, 1222. This is the same Cameron of whom Featherstonhaugh, -Canoe Voyage, etc., I. 1847, p. 314, speaks at length, and whose death -in 1811 is given as follows: "Passed a place on the right bank [of St. -Pierre's r., above the Waraju] where Milor [F.'s voyageur] buried his -bourgeois, a Mr. Cameron, in 1811. He was an enterprising, sagacious -Scotchman who had amassed a good deal of property by trafficking with -the Indians;... and whilst upon one of his expeditions he was taken -ill in his canoe, was landed, and died in the woods." Fgh. does not -hint at foul play here; for the suspicions in the case, see Long, as -cited in my L. and C. Cameron was buried on a bluff near Lac qui -Parle, the lake where his trading-post was, and "Cameron's grave" has -continued to be an identified spot from that day to this. Cameron's -name appears as that of one of the four witnesses to Pike's Sioux -treaty of Sept. 23d on one of the manuscript copies of that document -before me. The "Milor" mentioned here was a Canadian French half-breed -who became very well known as a resident of Mendota, Minn., where he -died about 1860, "after a long life full of adventure and daring -exploits," as J. F. Williams says, Minn. Hist. Coll., I. 2d. ed. 1872, -p. 375. - -[I-65] Those of a sentimental turn who may like to have the -full-rounded legend of the maiden Winona will find the romance related -in a scholarly yet sympathetic vein by Prof. Keating, in Long of 1823, -pub. 1824, I. pp. 280-85. Beltrami, II. p. 183, calls the girl -Oholoaitha, her lover Anikigi, comparing the pair to the muse of -Mitylene and Phaon. Whether the tragic event is fact or fancy is -another question I see no use of raising. There is no inherent -improbability in the case; any girl could have thrown herself over the -rock with more ease than she had climbed it for that purpose, and -suicide is not less frequent among squaws than various other peoples -of both sexes. In the case of Indian women the most usual causes are -said to be grief, anger, and revenge, though in some cases the -suicidal resolve is more deliberate, and rather a matter of social -etiquette or of a religious code than of emotional insanity. I -understand that hanging is the customary method of taking one's self -off; and that the smallest tree which will answer the purpose is -preferred, because it is an article of belief that the ghost thus -discarnated must drag the instrument of death about for a period, and -a woman naturally prefers to lighten the load as much as possible. -Supposing Winona to have taken the fatal leap, it is reasonable to -infer from the faith in such affairs that she is there yet, chained to -the rock like another Andromeda; for the bluff is too big for her to -budge an inch, even with the assistance of a possible Perseus. There -is unimpeachable precedent for her performance in the classics, not -entirely dissociated from the name and fame of the gifted poetical -archetaera Sappho; and rocks reputed to be the scenes of lovers' leaps -abound in history and geography. - -[I-66] That much-named river, whereto hangs a tale of great length. -Pike here has the right name of it, though it is now usually called -Cannon r., by perversion of the French Riviere aux Canots: Cano, -Canot, Canon, Canow r. of various writers; Riviere au Canon, Canoe r., -Cannon r., Pike, _passim_; Canon r., Long's map; Eamozindata or High -Rock r., Long's text, 1824, I. p. 263; Inyan Bosndata r., Natural -Obelisk r., Standing Rock r., Lahontan r., Cannon r., Nicollet, text -and map. It is commonly supposed that the stream marked R. aux Raisins -on Franquelin's map of 1688 is this river, and I see no objection to -this identification; for though the name is suspiciously like a -mistake for R. aux Racines, the river is laid down as above the -Chippewa, and can hardly have been intended for Root r. The main -question is whether R. Morte and R. Longue (Long r.), Lahontan, -1686-87, are names to be added to the synonyms of this stream. The -Baron Lahontan, "Lord Lieutenant of the French colony at Placentia in -Newfoundland," gives an account of himself on the Miss. r. in Letter -XVI. of his book, pp. 104-141 of the English ed., Lond., 1735. This -letter is "Dated at Missilimakinac, May 28th, 1689, containing an -Account of the Author's Departure from, and Return to Missilimackinac. -A Description of the Bay of Puante, and its Villages. An Ample -Description of the Beavers; followed by the journal of a remarkable -Voyage upon the Long River, and a Map of the adjacent Country." -According to this relation Lahontan came by the Fox-Wisconsin route to -Prairie du Chien Oct. 23d, 1686, thus hard upon the heels of Accault's -party, who had Hennepin along: "On the 3d [of Nov.] we entered the -Mouth of the Long River, which looks like a lake full of Bull-rushes; -we found in the middle of it a narrow Channel," etc. He continued his -journey, on paper if not on the river, and returned to the Mississippi -Mar. 2d, 1687; dropped down to the Missouri Mar. 17th; went up the -Missouri to the Osage r.; down the Missouri to the Mississippi again -Mar. 25th; down the Mississippi to the Wabash, and back up to the -Illinois Apr. 7th; up the Illinois to Fort Crevecoeur Apr. 16th; -arrived at "Chekakou" Apr. 24th; and made Michilimackinac soon -afterward. The whole _crux_ of Lahontan's relation is in his Long r., -which he professes to have ascended a great distance to the countries -of the Eororos, Esanapes, and Gnacsitares, where he also got wind of -equally peculiar people called Mozeemlek and Tahuglauk. The main -feature of his map is the "Morte or River Longue," represented as -larger than that portion of the Mississippi which he traces, and as -heading in a great lake which connects across high mountains by -numerous large streams with another great river which runs off his map -due W. _De te fabula narratur._ But there is nothing to forbid us to -suppose that Lahontan went up to or toward, or even ascended, some -such stream as Cannon r., and then simply tacked this on to St. -Peter's r. by hearsay. We must in justice observe that all he -professes to know about Long r. above the point he says he ascended it -he acknowledges he got from the natives; and he is careful to separate -his map into two parts by a heavy line lettered "The Division of the -Two Maps," _i. e._, his own and one "drawn upon Stag-skins by y^e -Gnacsitares." Such a piece of patch-work would easily make his Long r. -out of Cannon or some similar stream, run on to the whole course of -St. Peter's above the Mankato or Blue Earth r. Fortunately we have -little to do with the Baron's crazy-quilt, but I must here quote -Nicollet, because he sees reason to believe that Lahontan really did -ascend Cannon r., and has signalized his conclusion by naming it -Lahontan r. on his map. Though the gentle Nicollet's quality of mercy -was never strained, yet his judgments, even his special pleadings, -deserve always the most respectful consideration. Nicollet says, in -substance, Rep. pp. 20, 21, that he was forced to this conclusion -after surveying the Undine region; that the principal statements of -the Baron "coincided remarkably well with what I have laid down as -belonging to Cannon river.... His account, too, of the mouth of the -river is particularly accurate"; the objection that the Baron says -that he navigated Long r. in November and December, when it is usually -frozen, is in part overcome by the fact that it is one of the last to -freeze, and the last resort of the wild fowl; and while he must -convict the Baron of "gross exaggeration of the length of the river," -of its numerous population, and other pretended information, he would -conclude "that if La Hontan's claims to discoveries are mere fables, -he has had the good fortune or the sagacity to come near the truth." -As this musty old straw has never been threshed over to find any more -grains of wheat in it than Nicollet believed he had garnered, no one -else is likely in the future to make more of it than this; and our -alternative seems to be to accept Nicollet's results, or _noll. pros._ -the whole case. I incline to the former, partly from my habitual -inclination to account for as many historical names as possible, -partly because I have so much confidence in Nicollet. It does not seem -to have occurred to him that his view of the case would be -strengthened by the original though probably not new suggestion I have -made, to the effect that fables of the St. Peter, tacked on to some -facts of Cannon r., would explain Lahontan's Long r. - -[I-67] The present town of Redwing or Red Wing, Goodhue Co., Minn., -commemorates this chieftain, and preserves the site of his village -with entire exactitude. Pike's tabular statement, bound in this work, -calls him Talangamane, L'Aile Rouge, and Red Wing; his tribe, Minowa -Kantong, Gens du Lac, and People of the Lakes. Beltrami, II. p. 186, -makes one Tantangamani "the unnatural father of the unhappy -Oholoaitha." "Major Long arrived on the evening of the 30th [of June, -1823] at an Indian village, which is under the direction of Shakea, -(the man that paints himself red;) the village has retained the -appellation of Redwing, (aile rouge,) by which this chief was formerly -distinguished," Keating's Long, I. p. 251, where the name which Pike -renders "Talangamane" is given as that of Red Wing's son, Tatunkamene, -and translated Walking Buffalo. "The Redwing chief is, at present -[1823], very much superannuated, but he is still much respected on -account of his former distinguished achievements," _ibid._, p. 260. -More about him to come in Pike, beyond. - -[I-68] Frontenac to Red Wing, some 13 miles by present channel, whence -it is a couple of miles further to the head of the island opp. Cannon -r. camp. Pike coasts the Minnesota shore till he finishes with the -lake at the mouth of Bullard's or Ida cr., a streamlet that makes in -at a town called after the chief Wakouta, Wacouta, Wakuta, etc. Here -he enters one of the channels by which the Mississippi finds its way -into the lake, no doubt the middle one, then as now the main one, -which, however, soon joins the south one; the north channel is -narrower, crookeder, shoaler, and connected with some expansions known -as Upper and Lower lakes and Goose bay. The town of Red Wing is -situated on the S. side of a sharp bend the river makes in coming from -the Cannon, on a plain under bluffs that nearly encompass the town; -one of these is specially notable as the isolated elevation forming a -conspicuous landmark on the very brink of the river. This is Barn -bluff, or Barn mountain, so named by tr. of F. La Grange; it is 3/4 of a -mile long and 345 feet above low water mark; "upon the highest point -of the Grange. Major Long, who ascended it in 1817, observed an -artificial mound, whose elevation above its base was about five feet," -Keating, I. p. 296. Nicollet made the altitude 322 feet, with -commendable caution; Owen gave 350 feet, almost correctly. This word -_Grange_ is often found as Gange: thus Beltrami has in text, p. 189, -mountain of the Gange, and Gange r.; latter also on map, and I suppose -Ganges r. could be found, even at this distance from India. About the -mouth of Cannon r., opp. Pike's camp, there was a place called -Remnichah; both Nicollet and Owen chart Remnicha r. or cr. as a stream -falling in close to the mouth. While Remnicha or Hhemnicha was a name -of Red Wing's village, it also covered the whole tract from Barn bluff -to Cannon r. Mr. A. J. Hill informs me of "a small ravine or coulee -which ran through Red Wing's village, and in 1854, when I lived there, -was called the Jordan. It only headed a few blocks back, and is now -doubtless a sewer or filled up." So Nicollet's Remnicha r. is that now -known as Hay cr., above which a certain Spring cr. makes in on the -same side. Present town of Trenton, Pierce Co., Wis., is about a mile -above camp. - -[I-69] Discovery of the St. Croix r. is commonly attributed to -Accault's party, already mentioned as consisting of himself, Auguelle, -and Hennepin, prisoners in the hands of the Sioux at the time. The -date is 1680; day in question. According to La Salle's letter of Aug. -22d, 1682, written at Fort Frontenac, in Margry's Relations, II. p. -245 _seq._, it was very shortly after the 22d of April, 1680, when the -Indians who were carrying them off had come up the Mississippi to 8 -leagues below the falls of St. Anthony, and then determined to finish -their journey by land to their village at Mille Lacs. As the St. Croix -is more than 24 m. below Minneapolis, this party must have passed its -mouth about the date said. The Memoir of Le Sieur Daniel Greysolon Du -Luth to the Marquis of Seignelay, 1685 (Archives of the Ministry of -the Marine), states that in June, 1680, he entered a river 8 leagues -from the end of Lake Superior, ascended it, made a half league -portage, and fell into "a very fine river," which took him to the -Mississippi r. This was the St. Croix, which Du Luth thus certainly -descended to its mouth at that time. He heard of the captivity of his -countrymen with indignation and surprise, hired a Sioux to show him -where they were, and rescued them; he says that he put them in his -canoes and carried them to Michelimakinak, whence, after wintering -there, they set out for the settlements Mar. 29th, 1681. It is quite -possible that before the great triangular duel which La Salle, Du -Luth, and Hennepin managed to arrange among themselves over the -operations of 1680, the St. Croix was seen by the missionary Menard, -who in 1661 may have reached the Mississippi by way of the St. Croix -or some other way, and was soon after lost. Marquette is not in -question here, as he came by the Wisconsin to the Mississippi and went -down the latter. So with any other person who reached the Mississippi -prior to 1680. Excepting the Menard matter, which is uncertain, the -case narrows to Accault's party and Du Luth, within some weeks of each -other, late spring and early summer of 1680; the facts appear to be -that the former first passed the mouth of the St. Croix, and the -latter first descended this river. Hennepin first named the river R. -de Tombeau, Descr. Louis., 1683, map; this is translated Tomb r., as, -_e. g._, Shea's Hennepin, 1880, p. 199, where we read: "Forty leagues -above [Chippewa r.] is a river full of rapids, by which, striking -northwest [read N. E.], you can proceed to Lake Conde [L. Superior], as -far as Nimissakouat [in Margry Nemitsakouat, in the Nouv. Dec. -Nissipikouet, being the Bois Brule] river, which empties into that -lake. This first river is called Tomb river because the Issati [Sioux] -left there the body of one of their warriors, killed by a rattlesnake, -on whom, according to their custom, I put a blanket." Some translate -Grave r. On Franquelin's map, 1688, the St. Croix is lettered R. de la -Magdelaine, though a certain Fort St. Croix appears about its head; by -whom it was first called Magdalene r. I am not informed. Lahontan's -map shows nothing here; he was too full of his fabulous Long r. to -concern himself much with real rivers. Next come Lesueur and his -people, 1695; he had first reached the Mississippi in 1683, and on -this his second appearance (his third being in 1700) they built the -trading-house called Fort Lesueur on Pelee isl., just below the mouth -of the St. Croix, as already noted. His editor, so far as this trip is -concerned, is the clever carpenter Penicaut, a sensible, -fair-and-square man. Just here comes in the question of the first -application of the _name_ St. Croix. The river was already so called -and the name in use before 1700; thus, Nicolas Perrot's prise de -possession, a document dated at Fort St. Antoine, May 8, 1689, -mentions the Riviere-Sainte-Croix. The Carte du Canada ou de la -Nouvelle France, par Guillame de L'Isle, Paris, 1703, traces the river -and letters it "L. & R. Ste. Croix," _i. e._, as some have translated -it, Lake and River Holy Cross; said lake being, of course, the -dilation of the same bottle-nosed river, which issues from a -contracted orifice, but is a mile or two wide higher up. But whatever -the theological proclivity to suppose this name to have been given for -the usual instrument of the execution of Roman malefactors, later put -by the Emperor Constantine on his banner, and afterward used for other -purposes, it is certain that the Christian crucifix is not directly -implied in the name. It is a personal designation, connoting one -Sainte Croix or Saint Croix, a trader named in La Harpe's MSS. of -Lesueur's third voyage as a Frenchman who had been wrecked there; for -we read: "September 16 he [Lesueur] passed on the east a large river -called Sainte-Croix, because a Frenchman of that name was shipwrecked -at its mouth." Hennepin names Sainte Croix as one of six men who -deserted La Salle. A letter written in June, 1684, by Du Luth to -Governor De la Barre (who succeeded Frontenac in 1682), states that -the writer had met one Sieur de la Croix and his two companions. This -case resembles those of La Crosse r. already noted, and St. Pierre r., -noted beyond. It may be summed in the statement that St. Croix r., St. -Pierre r., and Lake Pepin, were all three so named for persons, by -Lesueur or his companions, not earlier than 1683 and not later than -1695; best assignable date, 1689. The river has also been called -Hohang or Fish r. (_cf._ Sioux Hogan-wanke-kin). The character of St. -Croix's r. as a waterway to the Great Lakes is elsewhere discussed. -This stream now forms the boundary between Wisconsin and Minnesota -from its mouth to beyond 46 deg. N., where it splits up into small streams -in Burnett Co., Wis. Its general course is not far from S.--it is due -S. for many miles before it falls into the Mississippi; which latter, -for a great distance above their confluence, has a general bearing S. -E. Immediately at the mouth of the St. Croix, on the E., is Prescott, -Pierce Co., Wis., the site of which was once recommended by Long for a -military post; on the W. is Point Douglas, Washington Co., Minn.; and -across the Mississippi, a very little higher up, is Hastings, seat of -Dakota Co., Minn., at the mouth of Vermilion r. The above-mentioned -dilation of the river into Lake St. Croix extends some 30 m. up from -its mouth; and as far above this lake as an Indian ordinarily paddled -his canoe in a day was the long-noted Sioux-Chippewa boundary, at a -place which became known as Standing Cedars. Thus the river did duty -in Indian politics before it set bounds to our Minnesota and -Wisconsin. This lake was often called Lower St. Croix l., in -distinction from the sizable body of water at the head of the river -known as Upper St. Croix l. For the route thence by Burnt r. to Lake -Superior, see a note beyond. - -[I-70] Especially as it leaves us in the lurch for mileage of the 19th. -But we can easily overhaul him before he gets to St. Paul, which is -only 30 river-miles from Prescott (mouth of St. Croix r.). He did not -go far above this river; for he makes it 261/2 + 8 = 341/2 m. to the Sioux -village, which latter was close to the present city limits of St. -Paul. If we must set a camp for him, it may be assigned to Hastings, -Dakota Co., Minn., 21/2 m. above Prescott, Pierce Co., Wis., and 181/2 m. -below Newport, Washington Co., Minn., in the vicinity of which he will -camp to-morrow. "Tattoo," at which the blunderbuss was fired, is not a -place, as the context and capitalization might suggest, but a certain -military call which is habitually sounded in garrisons and camps in -the evening before taps. It marks the hour when the soldiers are -supposed to retire to their quarters for their devotions before the -lights are put out at taps, and when the officers settle down in -earnest for the night's poker. In approaching the St. Croix from his -camp opposite Cannon r., Pike has bluffs off his right nearly all the -way, and the town of Diamond Bluff, Pierce Co., Wis., is at the point -where they first reach to the river, a mile and a half above the mouth -of Trimbelle r., right, and 11 m. below Prescott. On the left the -bluffs are off the river all the way, and for most of this distance -Vermilion slough, running under the bluffs, cuts off an island 11 m. -long and at its widest near 3 m. broad. The lower outlet of the slough -is below Trimbelle r.; the middle opening is only 3 m. below Prescott; -the upper one is at Hastings. The bottom-land of the principal island -has several bodies of water, one of them called Sturgeon l., -discharging separately from the main slough; and is traversed -lengthwise by a sand-bank 6 m. long, which may be called Lesueur's -Terrace. For this Prairie or Bald isl. is no doubt that formerly known -as Isle Pelee, on which was built Fort Lesueur, 1695. The middle -opening of Vermilion slough is in common with a lower outlet of -Vermilion r. This is Rapid r. of Long, and Riviere Jaune of the -French; "R. Jaune" appears on Franquelin's map, 1688. The upper -discharge of this river is at Hastings, and thus above the mouth of -the St. Croix; Lake Isabel is a small sheet between the river and the -town. The Minnesota county line between Goodhue and Dakota strikes the -Mississippi just 11/4 m. below the lower mouth of Vermilion r. At the -mouth of the St. Croix the Mississippi ceases or rather begins to -separate Wisconsin from Minnesota; so that henceforth Pike proceeds in -the latter State. - -[I-71] Hastings to Newport, 181/2 m. by the channel; camp a mile and a -half beyond this, vicinity of present Red Rock, Washington Co., at the -point on the small strip of prairie where the Sioux had their -celebrated red medicine-stone; this was the "large painted stone" Pike -observed. It gave name to Red Rock, having meanwhile become a -historical object. We read in Long, I. p. 287: "a stone which is held -in high veneration by the Indians on account of the red pigment with -which it is bedawbed, it is generally called the painted stone.... It -is a fragment of syenite, which is about four and a half feet in -diameter.... The Indians frequently offer presents to the Great Spirit -near this stone," etc. The party found near the stone an eagle's -feather, roots of _Psoralea esculenta_, and willow sticks painted red; -they secured a fragment of the idol for their mineralogical -collection. At the time of this visit (1823) there was an Indian -burying-ground a short distance above--in sight from the spot--if that -place can be called a burying-ground where the bodies are not buried -in the ground but scaffolded in the air; a mode of disposition of the -dead which might be called hypsitaphy, in distinction from bathytaphy -or ordinary underground interment. See Pike's remarks on Sioux burial -on the 21st. To reach the sacred spot, hallowed by association with -the deepest religious emotions of the untutored aboriginal mind, Pike -left Hastings, where the river was bridged by the C., M. and St. P. R. -R. in 1871 (Act of Minn. Legisl., Feb. 7th, 1867), and soon passed the -site of Nininger, Dakota Co., a small town built at the lower point of -a steep bluff which fronts the river's edge on the S., at the mouth of -the rivulet which serves as the upper discharge of Lake Rebecca or -King l.--in fact the whole bottom on his left is an island 23/4 m. long, -extending from Hastings to Nininger, being cut off by the slough of -which King l. is a dilation. On the right, in Washington Co., bluffs -front the river for a mile or more, to the lower opening of Boulanger -slough, which cuts off an island 21/2 m. long. The immediate frontage of -the Nininger bluffs on the river is less than a mile, for they recede -at the lower opening of Nininger slough. The river thus winds from -side to side of its bed, with alternation of bluffs and bottom on each -side. Above Nininger slough the river makes a great loop to the left; -the whole irregular curve is subtended on the right by Grey Cloud -slough, about 4 m. long direct, and longer by its meanders, thus -cutting off Grey Cloud isl., of the same length, and over 2 m. wide in -some places; town site Grey Cloud, Washington Co., on the river bank -on this island, which also presents at its northern end a limestone -rock, 50 to 75 feet above low-water mark, and a mile or more long; -this is probably the Medicine Wood of Forsyth, 1819. Near the middle -of the loop, on the other side, is the _nominis umbra_ site of Pine -Bend, Dakota Co., where the river runs under the hills. This loop was -formerly called Detour de Pin or des Pins, whence its modern names -Pine bend and Pine turn. The hills border the river pretty closely for -5 m. further, to Merrimac, opposite which is an island of the same -name; within 11/2 m. of this on the right hand, opposite an island of -its own name, is Newport, Washington Co. - -[I-72] Newport to St. Paul--to a steamboat ldg. about the foot of -Wabasha or Robert st.--is 81/2 m. by the channel, and considerably more -than halfway up to Pike's camp on the island at the mouth of St. -Peter's or the Minnesota r. Thus, though Pike calls to-day's voyage -"24 miles," it is nearer 14. One who then swept around the bold bend -of the river at St. Paul saw a germ of that great metropolis in the -humble Sioux village, though only prescience could have divined what -time would make of the site above it. A later account than Pike's is -given in Keating's Long's Exp. of 1823, pub. 1824, I. p. 289: "Passed -an Indian village consisting of ten or twelve huts, situated at a -handsome turn on the river, about 10 miles below the mouth of the St. -Peter; the village is generally known by the name of the Petit -Corbeau, or Little Raven, which was the appellation of the father and -grandfather of the present chief. He is called Chetanwakoamene (the -good sparrow-hunter). The Indians designate this band by the name of -Kapoja, which implies that they are deemed lighter and more active -than the rest of the nation." This was a band of Mdewakantonwan Sioux -(the Minowa Kantong of Pike), for which, as well as for the celebrated -chief himself, see notes beyond. The term which Keating renders Kapoja -is now Kaposia, as a designation of the locality of South Park, a -place on the west bank of the river; but the old Sioux village was on -the east bank, below Frenchman's bar, in the low ground formerly -called by the French Grand Marais, rendered by Beltrami Great March -(for Great Marsh, II. p. 197), and now rejoicing in the epithet of -Pig's Eye marsh or lake. Pig's Eye was the soubriquet of one Peter -Parrant, a whisky-seller who squatted on the bottom in 1838, below -Carver's Cave in the Dayton bluff. The whole region about the mouth of -St. Peter's r. had been a Sioux focus and stamping-ground for -generations before any of the localities thereabouts received names -from us. The curious origin of the name St. Paul for the present -capital was in this wise: The limits of the military reservation about -Fort Snelling were authoritatively fixed in 1839. The whisky-traders, -loafers, and squatters about the place became so troublesome that the -U. S. Marshal of Wisconsin was directed to remove all such intruders, -who were given till next spring to decamp; and on May 6th, 1840, the -troops were called out to complete the eviction by the destruction of -cabins. In the words of E. D. Neill, Minn. Hist. Soc., II. Part 2, -1864, 2d ed. 1881, p. 142: "The squatters then retreated to the -nearest point below the military reserve, and there they became the -inglorious founders of a hamlet, which was shortly graced with the -small Roman Catholic chapel of St. Paul, the name of which is retained -by the thrifty capital of Minnesota, which has emerged from the -groggeries of 'certain lewd fellows of the baser sort.'" The chapel -above mentioned was built by Rev. Lucian Galtier, on what is now -Catholic block; it fronted on Bench street. It was dedicated Nov. 1st, -1841. The first marriage bans were those of one Vital Guerin, -described as "a resident of St. Paul;" and thus the priest named the -place as well as the house, although it was also called for a time St. -Paul Landing, because some stores had been put up close by, which -caused steamboats to stop there. In 1848, when Minnesota acquired -Territorial organization, and the capital was fixed at St. Paul, no -such place could be found on ordinary maps; it was some obscure -settlement, supposed to be somewhere about the mouth of St. Peter's -r., or in the vicinity of St. Anthony's falls, perhaps at a place -known as White Rock, or Iminijaska, where some bluffs were more easily -discernible than any village. Even down to 40 years ago, or a little -before 1858, when Minnesota acquired statehood, St. Paul had only -replaced tepees with a sprinkling of log cabins; and people scrambled -up the bluff by digging their toes into the ground. The site of the -city is one which would hardly have been anticipated as such; nor -would the original features of the locality be easily recognized now -after all the grading and terracing that has been done to convert the -stubborn hills and intractable hollows into a beautiful city of over -190,000 inhabitants. But all this was to be, and is well worth all -that it cost. Among the natural features which should be noted in this -connection, especially as they have given rise to conflicting -historical statements, are Carver's Great Cave in Dayton's bluff, and -Nicollet's New (Fountain) Cave, halfway thence to Fort Snelling; but -for these, as well as for a third cave close to Carver's, see a note -beyond, at date of Apr. 12th, 1806, when Pike's text brings the matter -up. - -[I-73] Jean Baptiste Faribault, b. Berthier, Lower Canada, 1774, d. -Faribault, Minn., Aug. 20th, 1860, being at the time the oldest white -resident of the present State. Jean Baptiste was the youngest one of -10 children of Bartholomew (who was b. in Paris and came to Canada in -1754); he was in business in Quebec 1790-97, at the latter date -entered the employ of J. J. Astor as an agent of the N. W. Co., and -was engaged in the Indian trade at various points in the Mississippi -region for about 50 years, for the most part on his own account. One -of the posts he established was at the mouth of the Minnesota r., -where Pike found him. In 1814 he married a half-breed daughter of -Major Hause (then Superintendent of Indian Affairs), by whom he had -eight children. His Indian name was Chahpahsintay, meaning Beaver -Tail. His eldest son, Alexander, founded the present town of -Faribault, Minn. Mr. J. B. Faribault "espoused the cause of the U. S. -during the war of 1812, and lost many thousand dollars thereby, as -well as narrowly escaping with his life on several occasions. He -labored all his life to benefit the red man, teach him agriculture and -the arts of industry, and protect his interests. He had an unbounded -influence over them; his advice was never disregarded. He was -prominent at all treaties, and rendered the U. S. many valuable -services," says J. F. Williams, Minn. Hist. Coll., I. 2d ed. 1872, p. -377: see also _ibid._, p. 468. An extended memoir of Faribault, by -General H. H. Sibley, occupies pp. 168-79 of III. of the Minn. Hist. -Coll., 1874. - -[I-74] The history of the discovery of St. Peter's r., off the mouth of -which Pike is now camped, is involved in some obscurity, which modern -research has not wholly cleared up, though the main facts have -probably been certified. (1) It has been conceded since Carver's time -that Hennepin missed the river. Discovery has not been traced back of -Lesueur's time. Lesueur was first on the Mississippi hereabouts in -1683; next in 1695, when he built on Pelee isl., just below the St. -Croix; and again in 1700; both these rivers are noted in the treatise -of Nicolas Perrot, and before 1700 the river of St. Pierre had been so -named. (2) Charlevoix's account, Hist. N. Fr., Paris, 1744, IV. pp. -165, 166, is in substance: In 1700 Lesueur, sent by D'Iberville to -establish himself in the Sioux country and take possession of a -copper-mine _que le Sueur y avait decouverte_, had already discovered -there, some time before; ascended St. Peter 40 leagues to Riviere -Verte (now Blue Earth r.) which comes in on the left hand as you go -up; ascended this Green r. 1 league; built a fort and wintered there, -1700-1; in April, "1702," for which read 1701, went up Green r. 3/4 -league to his mine and in 22 days got out over 30,000 lbs. of ore, of -which 4,000 selected lbs. were sent to France; there was a mountain of -this mineral 10 leagues long, etc. (3) The Amer. Philos. Society's -copy of the MS. of Benard de la Harpe is carefully digested by Keating -in Long's Exp., I. pp. 317-322. This MS. is entitled: "Journal -historique concernant l'etablissement des Francais a la Louisianne, -tire des memoires de Messrs. d'Iberville et de Bienville, etc., par M. -Benard de la Harpe." The original of this copy was in the hands of Dr. -Sibley, who certifies to the correctness of the copy in a note -annexed, dated Natchitoches, Oct. 29th, 1805. Some of the contents of -this MS. are: (_a_) Lesueur and d'Iberville, with 30 hands, reached -the mouth of the Mississippi Dec., 1699. Lesueur was sent there by M. -l'Huillier, fermier general, under orders to establish himself at a -place near the sources of the Mississippi, where he had _previously_ -discovered a green ore, _i. e._, in 1695. The substance of the 1695 -discovery is: Lesueur built a fort on an island (Isle Pelee, now -Prairie isl.) in the Mississippi over 200 m. above the Illinois, by -order of Count Frontenac; and the same year he went to Montreal with -the Chippewa chief Chingouabe and the Sioux chief Tioscate, the latter -the first of his nation that ever was in Canada, and received very -kindly by the authorities in view of what they hoped to make out of -his country. With this Sioux chief Lesueur had intended to reascend -the Mississippi in 1696; but the former died at Montreal after 33 -days' illness. Lesueur, thus released from an obligation to go back -with the chief to the country where he had discovered the ore, -determined to go to France to ask leave to open mines; this voyage he -made, and had his permit in 1697. June, 1697, he embarked at La -Rochelle for Canada; was captured by the British on the Newfoundland -banks and carried to Portsmouth; after peace, returned to Paris for a -new commission, which was issued to him in 1698; went to Canada with -this; various obstacles threw him back to Europe; and meanwhile part -of the men whom he had left in charge in 1695 abandoned their posts -and proceeded to Montreal. Thus operations on the mines were suspended -from 1695 to 1700, for Lesueur and d'Iberville, with their 30 workmen, -as we have seen, only reached the mouth of the Mississippi in Dec., -1699. (_b_) The MS. we are following states, under date of Feb. 10th, -1702, that Lesueur was that day come to the mouth of the Mississippi -with 2000 quintaux of blue and green earth. This he certainly had got -on his tour of Dec., 1699-Feb., 1702, from and back to the mouth of -the Mississippi, and he had got it from the mine he opened and worked -on Riviere Verte or Blue Earth r., the principal branch of St. -Peter's. The MS. contains a narrative of this tour from July 12th to -Dec. 13th, 1700. It appears that Lesueur moved as follows: July 13th, -mouth of the Missouri; Sept. 1st, mouth of the Wisconsin; Sept. 14th, -mouth of the Chippewa (on one of whose branches he had found a 60-lb. -mass of copper during his previous journey); same day, Lake Pepin, so -designated in the MS.; 16th, passed La Croix r., so called from a -Frenchman wrecked there; 19th, entered St. Peter's r.; Oct. 1st had -ascended this for 441/4 leagues, and then entered Blue r., so called for -the color of the earth on its banks; started an establishment at or -more probably near the mouth of Blue r., at what the MS. gives as lat. -44 deg. 13' N.; Oct. 14th, finished the works, which were named Fort -L'Huillier; Oct. 26th, went to the mine with three canoes, which he -loaded with colored earth taken from mountains near which were mines -of copper, samples of which L'Huillier had assayed at Paris in 1696. -Lesueur wintered there, 1700-1, and, as we have seen, was back to the -mouth of the Mississippi Feb. 10th, 1702. (_c_) From these historical -data Keating in Long, 1823, I. p. 320, infers that St. Peter's and the -Blue (Blue Earth) rivers were those streams which Lesueur had ascended -in 1695, which date is consequently assigned to the discovery, without -reference back to 1683. This inference is made "from the circumstance -that they are mentioned as well known, and not as recently discovered; -and more especially from the observation of la Harpe, that the eastern -Sioux having complained of the situation of the fort [L'Huillier], -which they would have wished to see at the confluence of the St. Peter -and Mississippi, M. le Sueur endeavoured to reconcile them to it. 'He -had foreseen,' says la Harpe, 'that an establishment on the Blue river -would not be agreeable to the eastern Sioux, who are the rulers of all -the other Sioux, because they were the first with whom the French -traded, and whom they provided with guns; nevertheless, as this -undertaking had not been commenced with the sole view of trading for -beavers, but in order to become thoroughly acquainted with the quality -of the various mines _which he had previously discovered there_ -[italics Keating's], he replied to the natives that he was sorry he -had not been made sooner acquainted with their wishes, &c., but that -the advanced state of the season prevented his returning to the mouth -of the river.' No mention is made in this narrative of the stream -being obstructed with ice, a circumstance which, had it really -occurred, would, we think, have been recorded by de la Harpe, who -appears to have been a careful and a curious observer, and who -undoubtedly saw le Sueur's original narrative." (4) On the foregoing -data Nicollet, Rep. 1843, p. 18, has some judicious remarks in fixing -Lesueur's locality with precision: "On the left bank of the Mankato -[Green, Blue, or Blue Earth r.], six miles from its mouth, in a rocky -bluff composed of sandstone and limestone, are found cavities in which -the famed blue or green earth, used by the Sioux as their principal -pigment, is obtained. This material is nearly exhausted, and it is not -likely that this is the spot where a Mr. Lesueur (who is mentioned in -the Narrative of Major Long's Second Expedition, as also by Mr. -Featherstonhaugh) could, in his third voyage, during the year 1700, -have collected his 4000 pounds of copper earth sent by him to France. -I have reason to believe that Lesueur's location is on the river to -which I have affixed his name, and which empties into the Mankato -three-quarters of a league above Fort L'Huillier, built by him and -where he spent a winter. This location corresponds precisely with that -given by Charlevoix, whilst it is totally inapplicable to the former. -Here the blue earth is abundant in the steep and elevated hills at the -mouth of this river, which hills form a broken country on the right -side of the Mankato. Mr. [J. C.] Fremont and myself have verified this -fact: he, during his visit to Lesueur river; and I, upon the locality -designated by Mr. Featherstonhaugh, where the Ndakotahs formerly -assembled in great numbers to collect it, but to which they now seldom -resort, as it is comparatively scarce--at least so I was informed by -Sleepy-eye, the chief of the Sissitons, who accompanied me during this -excursion." (5) Featherstonhaugh's remarks, Canoe Voyage, etc., I. p. -280 and p. 304, seem to me less judicious than likely to make the -judicious grieve; in fine, they are singularly obtuse to have come -from so British a man and so clever a story-teller. He heads a page in -caps, "THE COPPER-MINE, A FABLE;" he has in text, "finding the -copper-mine to be a fable"; again: "that either M. le Sueur's green -cupreous earth had not corresponded to the expectations he had raised, -or that the whole account of it was to be classed with Baron -Lahontan's" fables, etc. This sort of talk would befog the whole -subject, were it not obvious that it has no bearing whatever upon the -historico-geographical case we are discussing. The question is _where_ -Lesueur went, and _when_ he got there--not at all what he found there. -It is obtuse, I say, because unintentionally misleading, for F'gh to -say that, when he reached the bluff whence the pigment had been taken, -"Le Sueur's story lost all credit with me, for I instantly saw that it -was nothing but a continuation of the seam which divided the sandstone -from the limestone ... containing a silicate of iron of a -blueish-green color." In the first place, F'gh was not at exactly the -right spot, which Nicollet has pointed out. Secondly, though Lesueur -should have been mistaken or mendacious about any copper-mine being in -that region--though he should not have collected 30,000 lbs. of ore in -22 days, or even a gunny-sack full of anything in a year--though the -mountains should shrink to bluffs, and the whole commercial features -of the case turn into the physiognomy of the wild-cat--that would not -affect the historical and geographical facts, viz.: Lesueur ascended -the St. Peter's to the Mankato, and this as far at least as its first -branch, thus exploring both these rivers in 1700. Item, he had been to -if not also up the river of St. Pierre in 1695; and it had been known -since his first voyage in 1683. (6) As to the name Riviere St. Pierre, -or de St. Pierre, which we have translated St. Peter, or St. Peter's -r., the former obscurity of its origin has, I think, been almost -entirely cleared up. Keating's Long, 1824, I. p. 322, has: "We have -sought in vain for the origin of the name; we can find no notice of -it; it appears to us at present not unlikely that the name may have -been given by le Sueur in 1795 [slip for 1695], in honor of M. de St. -Pierre Repantigni, to whom La Hontan incidentally alludes (I. p. 136) -as being in Canada in 1789 [_i. e._, 1689]. This person may have -accompanied le Sueur on his expedition." Keating does not cite in this -connection the remark of Carver, ed. 1796, p. 35: "Here [at Lake -Pepin] I discovered the ruins of a French factory, where it is said -Captain St. Pierre resided, and carried on a very great trade with the -Naudowessies [Sioux], before the reduction of Canada." This person was -Jacques Le Gardeur St. Pierre, who in 1737 commanded the fort on Lake -Pepin (Fort Beauharnois). One Fort St. Pierre was built at Rainy l. -late in 1731; J. Le G. St. Pierre was there in 1751: for extended -notice of him, see Neill, Macalester Coll. Cont., No. 4, 1890, pp. -136-40. His father was Captain Paul St. Pierre, who was sent to the -French post (Maison Francoise) at La Pointe (Chaquamegon bay) in 1718. -Nicollet, Rep. 1843, p. 68, cites Carver, and states: "I have no -hesitation in assigning its [the name's] origin to a Canadian by the -name of De St. Pierre, who resided for a long time thereabouts." The -name appears for the first time in Perrot's report, of the date 1689, -which is also the most probable date of naming the St. Croix r. and -Lake Pepin. The only question left is, whether the river was not named -to compliment _Pierre_ Lesueur himself. Whoever the St. Pierre whose -name the river bears may prove to be, the name is a personal one, -which we should not have translated into English St. Peter; for it -certainly has nothing to do with the legendary saint so styled, whose -career is connected with the crowing of cocks three times more than -with the course of any river. Had the stream been named by some priest -for such a sadly overworked patron as the apocryphal first Bishop of -Rome, we should have heard all about it in the Jesuit Relations or -elsewhere. (7) The suggestion that the name St. Pierre is a perversion -of _sans pierres_ ("without stones"), may be dismissed as too good to -be true; for it is a settled principle of sound philology that the -easiest etymologies are the most likely to have been invented to fit -the case, _ex post-facto_. (8) As to native names, Nicollet says, -_l. c._: "The name which the Sioux give to the St. Peter's river is -_Mini-sotah_; and to St. Peter's, as a station [Mendota], -_Mdote-mini-sotah_. The adjective _sotah_ is of different translation. -The Canadians translate it by a pretty equivalent French word, -_brouille_--perhaps most properly rendered into English by _blear_; -as, for instance, _mini sotah_, blear water, or the entrance of blear -water. I have entered into this explanation, because the word _sotah_ -really means neither clear nor turbid, as some authors have asserted; -its true meaning being readily found in the Sioux expression -_ishta-sotah_, blear-eyed.... The Chippeways are more accurate; by -them, the St. Peter's river [is called] _Ashkibogi-sibi_, the Green -Leaf river." It occurs to me that the distinction Nicollet draws would -correspond to _translucent_, as distinguished on the one hand from -colorless or transparent water, and on the other from opaque or turbid -water. I may also refer to the old medical term, _gutta serena_, for -forming cataract of the eye, when clear vision is obscured by a degree -of opacity that does not entirely exclude light. As applied to water, -Sioux _sotah_ may be about equivalent to Greek glaukos, Latin -_glaucus_, variously rendered "gray," "bluish-green," etc., and -Nicollet's "blear-eyed" be equivalent to what was called _glaucoma_ -(glaukoma). Notice what Pike says above of the color of the -water; but it must be added that, when he speaks of the Mississippi as -"remarkably red," we must understand only a reddish-yellow hue of its -shoal portions, imparted by its sands; and by "black as ink," only the -darker color of deeper places where the sands do not show through. The -name Mini-sota has a number of variants: for example, Carver, who -wintered on it Nov., 1766-Apr., 1767, has "the River St. Pierre, -called by the natives the Waddapawmenesotor"; with which compare -Watapan Menesota of Long, Watpamenisothe of Beltrami, and the title of -Featherstonhaugh's diverting book, "A Canoe Voyage up the Minnay -Sotor," etc. It has become fixed of late years, since an Act of -Congress, approved June 19th, 1852 (Stat. at Large, X. p. 147), -decreed that the noble river should bear the name of the State through -which it flows. (9) The Minnesota r. appears on various old maps of -Louisiana (not on Hennepin's, 1683). Franquelin's, 1688, traces it -without any name, but letters it with the name of the Indians, "Les -Mascoutens Nadouescioux," _i. e._, Sioux of the Prairie, Gens du Large -of the French, collectively, as distinguished from Gens du Lac. De -L'Isle's map, 1703, has "R. St. Pierre." - - - - -CHAPTER II. - -ITINERARY, CONTINUED: ST. PAUL TO LEECH LAKE, SEPTEMBER 22D, -1805-JANUARY 31ST, 1806. - - -_Sunday, Sept. 22d._ Employed in the morning measuring the river. About -three o'clock Mr. Frazer and his peroques arrived; and in three hours -after Petit Corbeau, at the head of his band, arrived with 150 -warriors. - -They ascended the hill in the point between the Mississippi and St. -Peters, and gave us a salute, _a la mode savage_, with balls; after -which we settled affairs for the council next day. Mr. Frazer and -myself took a bark canoe, and went up to the village, in order to see -Mr. Cameron. We ascended the St. Peters to the village, and found his -camp. He engaged to be at the council the next day, and promised to -let me have his barge. The Sioux had marched on a war excursion; but, -hearing by express of my arrival, they returned by land. We were -treated very hospitably, and hallooed after to go into every lodge to -eat. Returned to our camp about eleven o'clock, and found the Sioux -and my men peaceably encamped. No current in the river.[II-1] - -_Sept. 23d._ Prepared for the council, which we commenced about twelve -o'clock. I had a bower or shade, made of my sails, on the beach, into -which only my gentlemen (the traders) and the chiefs entered. I then -addressed them in a speech, which, though long and touching on many -points, had for its principal object the granting of land at this -place, falls of St. Anthony, and St. Croix [river], and making peace -with the Chipeways. I was replied to by Le Fils de Pinchow, Le Petit -Corbeau, and l'Original Leve. They gave me the land required, about -100,000 acres, equal to $200,000, and promised me a safe passport for -myself and any [Chippewa] chiefs I might bring down; but spoke -doubtfully with respect to the peace. I gave them presents to the -amount of about $200, and as soon as the council was over, I allowed -the traders to present them with some liquor, which, with what I -myself gave, was equal to 60 gallons. In one half-hour they were all -embarked for their respective villages. - -The chiefs in the council were: Le Petit Corbeau, who signed the -grant; Le Fils de Pinchow, who also signed; Le Grand Partisan; Le -Original Leve, war-chief; gave him my father's [General Wilkinson's] -tomahawk, etc.; Le Demi Douzen, war-chief; Le Beccasse; Le Boeuf que -Marche. - -It was somewhat difficult to get them to sign the grant, as they -conceived their word of honor should be taken for the grant without -any mark; but I convinced then it was not on their account, but my -own, that I wished them to sign it.[II-2] - -_Sept. 24th._ In the morning I discovered that my flag was missing -from my boat. Being in doubt whether it had been stolen by the -Indians, or had fallen overboard and floated away, I sent for my -friend, Original Leve, and sufficiently evinced to him, by the -vehemence of my action, by the immediate punishment of my guard -(having inflicted on one of them corporeal punishment), and by sending -down the shore three miles in search of it, how much I was displeased -that such a thing should have occurred. I sent a flag and two carrots -of tobacco, by Mr. Cameron, to the Sioux at the head of the St. -Peters; made a small draft of the position at this place; sent up the -boat I got from Mr. Fisher to the village on the St. Peters, and -exchanged her for a barge with Mr. Duncan. My men returned with the -barge about sundown. She was a fine light thing; eight men were able -to carry her. Employed all day in writing. - -_Sept. 25th._ I was awakened out of my bed by Le Petit Corbeau, head -chief, who came up from his village to see if we were all killed, or -if any accident had happened to us. This was in consequence of their -having found my flag floating three miles below their village, 15 -miles hence, from which they concluded some affray had taken place, -and that it had been thrown overboard. Although I considered this an -unfortunate accident for me, I was exceedingly happy at its effect; -for it was the occasion of preventing much bloodshed among the -savages. A chief called Outard Blanche[II-3] had his lip cut off, and -had come to Petit Corbeau and told him, "that his face was his -looking-glass, that it was spoiled, and that he was determined on -revenge." The parties were charging their guns and preparing for -action, when lo! the flag appeared like a messenger of peace sent to -prevent their bloody purposes. They were all astonished to see it. The -staff was broken. Then Petit Corbeau arose and spoke to this effect: -"That a thing so sacred had not been taken from my boat without -violence; that it would be proper for them to hush all private -animosities, until they had revenged the cause of their eldest -brother; that he would immediately go up to St. Peters, to know what -dogs had done that thing, in order to take steps to get satisfaction -of those who had done the mischief." They all listened to this -reasoning; he immediately had the flag put out to dry, and embarked -for my camp. I was much concerned to hear of the blood likely to have -been shed, and gave him five yards of blue stroud, three yards of -calico, one handkerchief, one carrot of tobacco, and one knife, in -order to make peace among his people. He promised to send my flag by -land to the falls, and make peace with Outard Blanche. Mr. Frazer went -up to the village. We embarked late, and encamped at the foot of the -rapids. In many places, I could scarce [almost] throw a stone over the -river. Distance three miles.[II-4] - -_Sept. 26th._ Embarked at the usual hour, and after much labor in -passing through the rapids, arrived at the foot of the falls [of St. -Anthony, in the city of Minneapolis], about three or four o'clock; -unloaded my boat, and had the principal part of her cargo carried over -the portage. With the other boat, however, full loaded, they were not -able to get over the last shoot, and encamped about 600 yards below. I -pitched my tent and encamped above the shoot. The rapids mentioned in -this day's march might properly be called a continuation of the falls -of St. Anthony, for they are equally entitled to this appellation with -the falls of the Delaware and Susquehanna. Killed one deer. Distance -nine miles.[II-5] - -_Sept. 27th._ Brought over the residue of my lading this morning. Two -men arrived from Mr. Frazer, on St. Peters, for my dispatches. This -business of closing and sealing appeared like a last adieu to the -civilized world. Sent a large packet to the general, and a letter to -Mrs. Pike, with a short note to Mr. Frazer. Two young Indians brought -my flag across by land; they arrived yesterday, just as we came in -sight of the falls. I made them a present for their punctuality and -expedition, and the danger they were exposed to from the journey. -Carried our boats out of the river as far as the bottom of the hill. - -_Sept. 28th._ Brought my barge over, and put her in the river above -the falls. While we were engaged with her, three-quarters of a mile -from camp, seven Indians, painted black, appeared on the heights. We -had left our guns at camp, and were entirely defenseless. It occurred -to me that they were the small party of Sioux who were obstinate, and -would go to war when the other part of the bands came in. These they -proved to be. They were better armed than any I had ever seen, having -guns, bows, arrows, clubs, spears, and some of them even a case of -pistols. I was at that time giving my men a dram, and giving the cup -of liquor to the first, he drank it off; but I was more cautious with -the remainder. I sent my interpreter to camp with them to wait my -coming, wishing to purchase one of their war-clubs, which was made of -elk-horn, and decorated with inlaid work. This, and a set of bows and -arrows, I wished to get as a curiosity. But the liquor I had given him -beginning to operate, he came back for me; refusing to go till I -brought my boat, he returned, and (I suppose being offended) borrowed -a canoe and crossed the river. In the afternoon we got the other boat -near the top of the hill, when the props gave way, and she slid all -the way down to the bottom, but fortunately without injuring any -person. It raining very hard, we left her. Killed one goose and a -raccoon. - -_Sunday, Sept. 29th._ I killed a remarkably large raccoon. Got our -large boat over the portage, and put her in the river, at the upper -landing. This night the men gave sufficient proof of their fatigue, by -all throwing themselves down to sleep, preferring rest to supper. This -day I had but 15 men out of 22; the others were sick. - -This voyage could have been performed with great convenience if we had -taken our departure in June. But the proper time would be to leave the -Illinois as soon as the ice would permit, when the river would be of a -good height. - -_Sept. 30th._ Loaded my boat, moved over, and encamped on the island. -The large boats loading likewise, we went over and put on board. In -the meantime I took a survey of the Falls, Portage, etc. If it be -possible to pass the falls at high water, of which I am doubtful, it -must be on the east side, about 30 yards from shore, as there are -three layers of rocks, one below the other. The pitch off either is -not more than five feet; but of this I can say more on my return. (It -is never possible, as ascertained on my return.) - -_Oct. 1st._ Embarked late. The river at first appeared mild and -sufficiently deep; but after about four miles the shoals commenced, -and we had very hard water all day; passed three rapids. Killed one -goose and two ducks. This day the sun shone after I had left the -falls; but whilst there it was always cloudy. Distance 17 miles.[II-6] - -_Oct. 2d._ Embarked at our usual hour, and shortly after passed some -large islands and remarkably hard ripples. Indeed the navigation, to -persons not determined to proceed, would have been deemed -impracticable. We waded nearly all day, to force the boats off shoals, -and draw them through rapids. Killed three geese and two swans. Much -appearance of elk and deer. Distance 12 miles.[II-7] - -_Oct. 3d._ Cold in the morning. Mercury at zero. Came on very well; -some ripples and shoals. Killed three geese and one raccoon [_Procyon -lotor_]; also a brelaw,[II-8] an animal I had never before seen. -Distance 151/2 miles.[II-9] - -_Oct. 4th._ Rained in the morning; but the wind serving, we embarked, -although it was extremely raw and cold. Opposite the mouth of Crow -river [present name] we found a bark canoe cut to pieces with -tomahawks, and the paddles broken on shore; a short distance higher up -we saw five more, and continued to see the wrecks until we found -eight. From the form of the canoes my interpreter pronounced them to -be Sioux; and some broken arrows to be the Sauteurs. The paddles were -also marked with the Indian sign of men and women killed. From all -these circumstances we drew this inference, that the canoes had been -the vessels of a party of Sioux who had been attacked and all killed -or taken by the Sauteurs. Time may develop this transaction. My -interpreter was much alarmed, assuring me that it was probable that at -our first rencounter with the Chipeways they would take us for Sioux -traders, and fire on us before we could come to an explanation; that -they had murdered three Frenchmen whom they found on the shore about -this time last spring; but notwithstanding his information, I was on -shore all the afternoon in pursuit of elk. Caught a curious little -animal on the prairie, which my Frenchman [Rousseau] termed a prairie -mole,[II-10] but it is very different from the mole of the States. -Killed two geese, one pheasant [ruffed grouse, _Bonasa umbellus_], and -a wolf. Distance 16 miles.[II-11] - -_Oct. 5th._ Hard water and ripples all day. Passed several old Sioux -encampments, all fortified. Found five litters in which sick or -wounded had been carried. At this place a hard battle was fought -between the Sioux and Sauteurs in the year 1800. Killed one goose. -Distance 11 miles.[II-12] - -_Sunday, Oct. 6th._ Early in the morning discovered four elk; they -swam the river. I pursued them, and wounded one, which made his escape -into a marsh; saw two droves of elk. I killed some small game and -joined the boats near night. Found a small red capot hung upon a tree; -this my interpreter informed me was a sacrifice by some Indians to the -_bon Dieu_. I determined to lie by and hunt next day. Killed three -prairie-hens [pinnated grouse, _Tympanuchus americanus_] and two -pheasants. This day saw the first elk. Distance 12 miles.[II-13] - -_Oct. 7th._ Lay by in order to dry my corn, clothing, etc., and to -have an investigation into the conduct of my sergeant [Kennerman], -against whom some charges were exhibited. Sent several of my men out -hunting. I went toward evening and killed some prairie-hens; the -hunters were unsuccessful. Killed three prairie-hens and six -pheasants. - -_Oct. 8th._ Embarked early and made a very good day's march; had but -three rapids to pass all day. Some oak woodland on the W. side, but -the whole bottom covered with prickly-ash. I made it a practice to -oblige every man to march who complained of indisposition, by which -means I had some flankers on both sides of the river, who were -excellent guards against surprises; they also served as hunters. We -had but one raccoon killed by all. Distance 20 miles.[II-14] - -_Oct. 9th._ Embarked early; wind ahead; barrens and prairie. Killed -one deer and four pheasants. Distance 3 miles. [Camp between Plum -creek and St. Augusta.] - -_Oct. 10th._ Came to large islands and strong water early in the -morning. Passed the place at which Mr. [Joseph] Reinville and Mons. -Perlier [?] wintered in 1797. Passed a cluster of more than 20 islands -in the course of four miles; these I called Beaver islands, from the -immense sign of those animals; for they have dams on every island and -roads from them every two or three rods. I would here attempt a -description of this wonderful animal, and its admirable system of -architecture, were not the subject already exhausted by the numerous -travelers who have written on this subject. Encamped at the foot of -the Grand [Sauk] Rapids. Killed two geese, five ducks, and four -pheasants. Distance 161/2 miles.[II-15] - -_Oct. 11th._ Both boats passed the worst of the rapids by eleven -o'clock, but we were obliged to wade and lift them over rocks where -there was not a foot of water, when at times the next step would be in -water over our heads. In consequence of this our boats were frequently -in imminent danger of being bilged on the rocks. About five miles -above the rapids our large boat was discovered to leak so fast as to -render it necessary to unload her, which we did. Stopped the leak and -reloaded. Near a war-encampment I found a painted buckskin and a piece -of scarlet cloth, suspended by the limb of a tree; this I supposed to -be a sacrifice to Matcho Maniton [_sic_], to render their enterprise -successful; but I took the liberty of invading the rights of his -diabolical majesty, by treating them as the priests of old have often -done--that is, converting the sacrifice to my own use. Killed only two -ducks. Distance 8 miles.[II-16] - -_Oct. 12th._ Hard ripples in the morning. Passed a narrow rocky place -[Watab rapids], after which we had good water. Our large boat again -sprung a leak, and we were again obliged to encamp early and unload. -Killed one deer, one wolf, two geese, and two ducks. Distance 121/2 -miles.[II-17] - -_Sunday, Oct. 13th._ Embarked early and came on well. Passed [first a -river on the right, which we named Lake river (now called Little Rock -river) and then] a handsome little river on the east, which we named -Clear river [now Platte]; water good. Killed one deer, one beaver, two -minks, two geese, and one duck. Fair winds. Discovered one buffalo -sign. Distance 29 miles.[II-18] - -_Oct. 14th._ Ripples a considerable [part of the] way. My hunters -killed three deer, four geese, and two porcupines. When hunting -discovered a trail which I supposed to have been made by the savages. -I followed it with much precaution, and at length started a large bear -feeding on the carcass of a deer; he soon made his escape. Yesterday -we came to the first timbered land above the falls. Made the first -discovery of bear since we left St. Louis, excepting what we saw three -miles below St. Peters. Distance 17 miles.[II-19] - -_Oct. 15th._ Ripples all day. In the morning the large boat came up, -and I once more got my party together; they had been detained by -taking in the game. Yesterday and this day passed some skirts of good -land, well timbered, swamps of hemlock, and white pine. Water very -hard. The river became shallow and full of islands. We encamped on a -beautiful point on the west, below a fall [Fourth, Knife, or Pike -rapids] of the river over a bed of rocks, through which we had two -narrow shoots to make our way the next day. Killed two deer, five -ducks, and two geese. This day's march made me think seriously of our -wintering ground and leaving our large boats. Distance five -miles.[II-20] - -_Oct. 16th._ When we arose in the morning found that snow had fallen -during the night; the ground was covered, and it continued to snow. -This indeed was but poor encouragement for attacking the rapids, in -which we were certain to wade to our necks. I was determined, however, -if possible, to make la riviere de Corbeau [now Crow Wing river], the -highest point ever made by traders in their bark canoes. We embarked, -and after four hours' work became so benumbed with cold that our -limbs were perfectly useless. We put to shore on the opposite side of -the river, about two-thirds of the way up the rapids. Built a large -fire; and then discovered that our boats were nearly half-full of -water, both having sprung such large leaks as to oblige me to keep -three hands bailing. My Sergeant Kennerman, one of the stoutest men I -ever knew, broke a blood-vessel and vomited nearly two quarts of -blood. One of my corporals, Bradley, also evacuated nearly a pint of -blood when he attempted to void his urine. These unhappy -circumstances, in addition to the inability of four other men, whom we -were obliged to leave on shore, convinced me that if I had no regard -for my own health and constitution, I should have some for those poor -fellows, who were killing themselves to obey my orders. After we had -breakfasted and refreshed ourselves, we went down to our boats on the -rocks, where I was obliged to leave them. I then informed my men that -we would return to the camp, and there leave some of the party and our -large boats. This information was pleasing, and the attempt to reach -the camp soon accomplished. - -My reasons for this step have partly been already stated. The -necessity of unloading and refitting my boats, the beauty and -convenience of the spot for building huts, the fine pine trees for -peroques, and the quantity of game, were additional inducements. We -immediately unloaded our boats and secured their cargoes. In the -evening I went out upon a small but beautiful creek [_i. e._, Pine -creek of Pike, now Swan river[II-21]] which empties into the falls [on -the W. side], for the purpose of selecting pine trees to make canoes. -Saw five deer, and killed one buck weighing 137 pounds. By my leaving -men at this place, and from the great quantities of game in its -vicinity, I was insured plenty of provision for my return voyage. In -the party [to be] left behind was one hunter, to be continually -employed, who would keep our stock of salt provisions good. Distance -2331/2 [about 111] miles above the falls of St. Anthony. - -_Oct. 17th._ It continued to snow. I walked out in the morning and -killed four bears, and my hunter three deers. Felled our trees for -canoes and commenced working on them. - -_Oct. 18th._ Stopped hunting and put every hand to work. Cut 60 logs -for huts and worked at the canoes. This, considering we had only two -felling-axes and three hatchets, was pretty good work. Cloudy, with -little snow. - -_Oct. 19th._ Raised one of our houses and almost completed one canoe. -I was employed the principal part of this day in writing letters and -making arrangements which I deemed necessary, in case I should never -return. - -_Sunday, Oct. 20th._ Continued our labor at the houses and canoes; -finished my letters, etc. At night discovered the prairie on the -opposite side of the river to be on fire: supposed to have been made -by the Sauteurs. I wished much to have our situation respectable -[defensible] here, or I would have sent next day to discover them. - -_Oct. 21st._ Went out hunting, but killed nothing, not wishing to -shoot at small game. Our labor went on. - -_Oct. 22d._ Went out hunting. About 15 miles up the [Pine] creek saw a -great quantity of deer; but from the dryness of the woods and the -quantity of brush, only shot one through the body, which made its -escape. This day my men neglected their work, which convinced me I -must leave off hunting and superintend them. Miller and myself lay out -all night in the pine woods. - -_Oct. 23d._ Raised another blockhouse; deposited all our property in -the one already completed. Killed a number of pheasants and ducks, -while visiting my canoe-makers. Sleet and snow. - -_Oct. 24th._ The snow having fallen one or two inches thick in the -night, I sent out one hunter, Sparks, and went out myself; Bradley, my -other hunter, being sick. Each of us killed two deer, one goose, and -one pheasant. - -_Oct. 25th._ Sent out men with Sparks to bring in his game. None of -them returned, and I supposed them to be lost in the hemlock swamps -with which the country abounds. My interpreter, however, whom I -believe to be a coward, insisted that they were killed by the -Sauteurs. Made arrangements for my departure. - -_Oct. 26th._ Launched my canoes and found them very small. My hunter -killed three deer. Took Miller and remained out all night, but killed -nothing. - -_Sunday, Oct. 27th._ Employed in preparing our baggage to depart. - -_Oct. 28th._ My two canoes being finished, launched, and brought to -the head of the rapids, I put my provision, ammunition, etc., on -board, intending to embark by day. Left them under the charge of the -sentinel; in an hour one of them sunk, in which was the ammunition and -my baggage; this was occasioned by what is called a wind-shock.[II-22] -This misfortune, and the extreme smallness of my canoes, induced me to -build another. I had my cartridges spread out on blankets and large -fires made around them. At that time I was not able to ascertain the -extent of the misfortune, the magnitude of which none can estimate, -save only those in the same situation with ourselves, 1,500 miles from -civilized society; and in danger of losing the very means of -defense--nay, of existence. - -_Oct. 29th._ Felled a large pine and commenced another canoe. I was at -work on my cartridges all day, but did not save five dozen out of 30. -In attempting to dry the powder in pots I blew it up, and it had -nearly blown up a tent and two or three men with it. Made a dozen new -cartridges with the old wrapping-paper. - -_Oct. 30th._ My men labored as usual. Nothing extraordinary. - -_Oct. 31st._ Inclosed my little work completely with pickets. Hauled -up my two boats, and turned them over on each side of the gateway, by -which means a defense was made to the river. Had it not been for -various political reasons, I would have laughed at the attack of 800 -or 1,000 savages, if all my party were within. For, except accidents, -it would only have afforded amusement, the Indians having no idea of -taking a place by storm. Found myself powerfully attacked with the -fantastics of the brain called ennui, at the mention of which I had -hitherto scoffed; but my books being packed up, I was like a person -entranced, and could easily conceive why so many persons who had been -confined to remote places acquired the habit of drinking to excess and -many other vicious practices, which have been adopted merely to pass -time. - -_Nov. 1st._ Finding that my canoe would not be finished in two or -three days, I concluded to take six men and go down the river about 12 -miles [vicinity of Buffalo cr. (Two Rivers)], where we had remarked -great sign of elk and buffalo. Arrived there about the middle of the -afternoon. All turned out to hunt. None of us killed anything but -Sparks, one doe. A slight snow fell. - -_Nov. 2d._ Left the camp with the fullest determination to kill an -elk, if it were possible, before my return. I never had killed one of -those animals. Took Miller, whose obliging disposition made him -agreeable in the woods. I was determined, if we came on the trail of -elk, to follow them a day or two in order to kill one. This, to a -person acquainted with the nature of those animals, and the extent of -the prairies in this country, would appear, what it really was, a very -foolish resolution. We soon struck where a herd of 150 had passed. -Pursued and came in sight about eight o'clock, when they appeared, at -a distance, like an army of Indians moving along in single file; a -large buck, of at least four feet between the horns, leading the van, -and one of equal magnitude bringing up the rear. We followed until -near night, without once being able to get within pointblank shot. I -once made Miller fire at them with his musket, at about 400 yards' -distance; it had no other effect than to make them leave us about five -miles behind on the prairie. Passed several deer in the course of the -day, which I think we could have killed, but did not fire for fear of -alarming the elk. Finding that it was no easy matter to kill one, I -shot a doe through the body, as I perceived by her blood where she lay -down in the snow; yet, not knowing how to track, we lost her. Shortly -after saw three elk by themselves near a copse of woods. Approached -near them and broke the shoulder of one; but he ran off with the other -two just as I was about to follow. Saw a buck deer lying on the grass; -shot him between the eyes, when he fell over. I walked up to him, put -my foot on his horns, and examined the shot; immediately after which -he snorted, bounced up, and fell five steps from me. This I considered -his last effort; but soon after, to our utter astonishment, he jumped -up and ran off. He stopped frequently; we pursued him, expecting him -to fall every minute; by which we were led from the pursuit of the -wounded elk. After being wearied out in this unsuccessful chase we -returned in pursuit of the wounded elk, and when we came up to the -party, found him missing from the flock. Shot another in the body; but -my ball being small, he likewise escaped. Wounded another deer; when, -hungry, cold, and fatigued, after having wounded three deer and two -elk, we were obliged to encamp in a point of hemlock woods, on the -head of Clear [Platte] river. The large herd of elk lay about one mile -from us, in the prairie. Our want of success I ascribe to the -smallness of our balls, and to our inexperience in following the track -after wounding the game, for it is very seldom a deer drops on the -spot you shoot it. - -_Sunday, Nov. 3d._ Rose pretty early and went in pursuit of the elk. -Wounded one buck deer on the way. We made an attempt to drive them -into the woods; but their leader broke past us, and it appeared as if -the drove would have followed him, though they had been obliged to run -over us. We fired at them passing, but without effect. Pursued them -through the swamp till about ten o'clock, when I determined to attempt -to make the river, and for that purpose took a due south course. -Passed many droves of elk and buffalo, but being in the middle of an -immense prairie, knew it was folly to attempt to shoot them. Wounded -several deer, but got none. In fact, I knew I could shoot as many -deer as anybody; but neither myself nor company could find one in ten, -whereas one experienced hunter would get all. Near night struck a lake -about five miles long and two miles wide. Saw immense droves of elk on -both banks. About sundown saw a herd crossing the prairie toward us. -We sat down. Two bucks, more curious than the others, came pretty -close. I struck one behind the fore shoulder; he did not go more than -20 yards before he fell and died. This was the cause of much -exultation, because it fulfilled my determination; and, as we had been -two days and nights without victuals, it was very acceptable. Found -some scrub oak. In about one mile made a fire, and with much labor and -pains got our meat to it; the wolves feasting on one half while we -were carrying away the other. We were now provisioned, but were still -in want of water, the snow being all melted. Finding my drought very -excessive in the night, I went in search of water, and was much -surprised, after having gone about a mile, to strike the Mississippi. -Filled my hat and returned to my companion. - -_Nov. 4th._ Repaired my mockinsons, using a piece of elk's bone as an -awl. We both went to the Mississippi and found we were a great -distance from the camp. I left Miller to guard the meat and marched -for camp. Having strained my ankles in the swamps, they were extremely -sore, and the strings of my mockinsons cut them and made them swell -considerably. Before I had gone far I discovered a herd of 10 elk; -approached within 50 yards and shot one through the body. He fell on -the spot; but rose again and ran off. I pursued him at least five -miles, expecting every minute to see him drop. I then gave him up. -When I arrived at Clear [Platte] river, a deer was standing on the -other bank. I killed him on the spot, and while I was taking out the -entrails another came up. I shot him also. This was my last ball, and -then only could I kill! Left part of my clothes at this place to scare -the wolves. Arrived at my camp at dusk, to the great joy of our men, -who had been to our little garrison to inquire for me, and receiving -no intelligence, had concluded we were killed by the Indians, having -heard them fire on the opposite bank. The same night we saw fires on -the opposite shore in the prairie; this was likewise seen in the fort, -when all the men moved into the works. - -_Nov. 5th._ Sent four of my men with one canoe, loaded with the -balance of nine deer that had been killed; with the other two, went -down the river for my meat. Stopped for the deer, which I found safe. -Miller had just started to march home, but returned to camp with us. -Found all the meat safe, and brought it to the river, where we pitched -our camp. - -_Nov. 6th._ At the earnest entreaties of my men, and with a hope of -killing some more game, I agreed to stay and hunt. We went out and -found that all the elk and buffalo had gone down the river from those -plains the day before, leaving large roads to point out their course. -This would not appear extraordinary to persons acquainted with the -nature of those animals, as the prairie had unluckily caught fire. -After Miller left the camp for home, Sparks killed two deer, about six -miles off; and it being near the river, I sent the three men down with -the canoe, to return early in the morning. It commenced snowing about -midnight, and by morning was six inches deep. - -_Nov. 7th._ Waited all day with the greatest anxiety for my men. The -river became nearly filled with snow, partly congealed into ice. My -situation can more easily be imagined than described. Went down the -river to where I understood the deer were killed; but discovered -nothing of my men. I now became very uneasy on their account, for I -was well aware of the hostile disposition of the Indians to all -persons on this part of the Mississippi, taking them to be -traders--and we had not yet had an opportunity of explaining to them -who we were. Snow still continued falling very fast, and was nearly -knee-deep. Had great difficulty to procure wood sufficient to keep up -a fire all night. Ice in the river thickening. - -_Nov. 8th._ My men not yet arrived. I determined to depart for the -garrison, and when the river had frozen, to come down on the ice with -a party, or, if the weather became mild, by water, with my other -peroques, to search for my poor men. Put up about ten pounds of meat, -two blankets, and a bearskin, with my sword and gun, which made for me -a very heavy load. Left the meat in as good a situation as possible. -Wrote on the snow my wishes, and put my handkerchief up as a flag. -Departed. My anxiety of mind was so great that, notwithstanding my -load and the depth of the snow, I made into the bottom, above our -former hunting-camp, a little before night. Passed several deer and -one elk, which I might probably have killed; but not knowing whether I -should be able to secure the meat if I killed them, and bearing in -mind that they were created for the use and not the sport of man, I -did not fire at them. While I was endeavoring to strike fire I heard -voices, and looking round, observed Corporal Meek and three men -passing. Called them to me, and we embarked together. They were on -their march down to see if they could render us any assistance in -ascending the river. They were much grieved to hear my report of the -other men, Corporal Bradley, Sparks, and Miller. - -_Nov. 9th._ Snowed a little. The men carried my pack. I was so sore -that it was with difficulty I carried my gun; fortunately they brought -with them a pair of mockinsons, sent me by one of my soldiers, Owings, -who had rightly calculated that I was bare-foot; also a phial of -whisky, sent by the sergeant; were both very acceptable to me. They -brought also some tobacco for my lost men. We experienced difficulty -in crossing the river, owing to the ice. Moved into the post my -command, who were again encamped out, ready to march up the river. Set -all hands to making sleds, in order that the moment the river closed I -might descend, with a strong party, in search of my lost men. Issued -provisions, and was obliged to use six venison hams, being part of a -quantity of elegant hams I had preserved to take down, if possible, -to the general and some other friends. Had the two hunters not been -found, I must have become a slave to hunting in order to support my -party. The ice still ran very thick. - -_Sunday, Nov. 10th._ Continued making sleds. No news of my hunters. -Ice in the river very thick and hard. Raised my tent with puncheons, -and laid a floor in it. - -_Nov. 11th._ I went out hunting. Saw but two deer. Killed a remarkably -large black fox. Bradley and Miller arrived, having understood the -writing on the snow, and left Sparks behind at the camp to take care -of the meat. Their detention was owing to their being lost on the -prairie the first night, and not being able to find their deer. - -_Nov. 12th._ Dispatched Miller and Huddleston to the lower -hunting-camp, and Bradley and Brown to hunting in the woods. Made my -arrangements in camp. Thawing weather. - -_Nov. 13th._ Bradley returned with a very large buck, which supplied -us for the next four days. - -_Nov. 14th._ It commenced raining at 4 o'clock a. m.; lightning and -loud thunder. I went down the river in one of my canoes, with five -men, in order to bring up the meat from the lower camp; but after -descending about 13 miles, found the river blocked up with ice. -Returned about two miles and encamped in the bottom where I had my -hunting-camp on the 1st inst. Extremely cold toward night. - -_Nov. 15th._ When we meant to embark in the morning, found the river -full of ice and hardly moving. Returned to camp and went out to hunt, -for we had no provision with us. Killed nothing but five prairie-hens, -which afforded us this day's subsistence; this bird I took to be the -same as grouse. Expecting the ice had become hard, we attempted to -cross the river, but could not. In the endeavor one man fell through. -Freezing. - -_Nov. 16th._ Detached Corporal Meek and one private to the garrison, -to order the sleds down. No success in hunting, except a few fowl. I -began to consider the life of a hunter a very slavish life, and -extremely precarious as to support; for sometimes I have myself, -although no hunter, killed 600 weight of meat in one day; and I have -hunted three days successively without killing anything but a few -small birds, which I was obliged to do to keep my men from starving. -Freezing. - -_Sunday, Nov. 17th._ One of my men arrived; he had attempted to make -the camp before, but lost himself in the prairie, lay out all night, -and froze his toes. He informed us that the corporal and the men I -sent with him had their toes frost-bitten, the former very badly; that -three men were on their way down by land, the river above not being -frozen over. They arrived a few hours before night. Freezing. - -_Nov. 18th._ Took our departure down the river on the ice, our baggage -on the sled. Ice very rough. Distance 12 miles. Freezing. - -_Nov. 19th._ Arrived opposite our hunting-camp about noon. Had the -meat, etc., moved over. They had a large quantity of meat. I went out -and killed a very large buck. Thawing. - -_Nov. 20th._ Departed to return to the stockade, part of our meat on -the sled and part in the little peroque, the river being open in the -middle. Killed four deer. Thawing. Distance five miles. - -_Nov. 21st._ Marched in the morning. Came to a place where the river -was very narrow, and the channel blocked up. Were obliged to unload -our peroque and haul her over. The river having swelled a good deal at -this place the ice gave way with myself and two men on it. We seized -the sled that stood by us, with some little baggage on it, and by -jumping over four cracks, the last two feet wide, providentially made -our passage good without losing an individual thing. Encamped opposite -Clear [Platte] river. Killed one deer and one otter. Freezing. - -_Nov. 22d._ Were obliged to leave our canoe at Clear river, the river -being closed. Made two trips with our sled. Killed one deer. Distance -five miles. - -_Nov. 23d._ Having seen a great deal of buffalo sign, I determined to -kill one the next day--forgetting the elk chase. Encamped nearly -opposite our camp of the 15th and 16th. Thawing. Distance four miles. - -_Sunday, Nov. 24th._ Took Miller and Boley and went in pursuit of -buffalo. Came up with some about ten o'clock. In the afternoon wounded -one. Pursued them until night, and encamped on the side of a swamp. -Thawing. - -_Nov. 25th._ Commenced again the pursuit of the buffalo, and continued -till eleven o'clock, when I gave up the chase. Arrived at the camp -about sundown, hungry and weary, having eaten nothing since we left -it. My rifle carried too small a ball to kill buffalo; the balls -should not be more than 30 to the pound--an ounce ball would be still -preferable--and the animal should be hunted on horse-back. I think -that in the prairies of this country the bow and arrow could be used -to more advantage than the gun; for you might ride immediately -alongside, and strike them where you pleased, leaving them to proceed -after others. Thawing. - -_Nov. 26th._ Proceeded up the river. The ice getting very rotten, the -men fell through several times. Thawing. Distance five miles. - -_Nov. 27th._ Took one man and marched to the post. Found all well. My -hunter, Bradley, had killed 11 deer since my departure. Sent all the -men down to help the party up. They returned, accompanied by two -Indians, who informed me they were two men of a band who resided on -Lake Superior, called the Fols Avoins, but spoke the language of the -Chipeways. They informed me that Mr. Dickson's[II-23] and the other -trading-houses were established about 60 miles below, and that there -were 70 lodges of Sioux on the Mississippi. All my men arrived at the -post. We brought from our camp below the balance of 17 deer and 2 elk. - -_Nov. 28th._ The Indians departed, much pleased with their reception. -I dispatched Corporal Meek and one private down to Dickson with a -letter, which would at least have the effect of attaching the most -powerful tribes in this quarter to my interest. - -_Nov. 29th._ A Sioux, the son of a warrior called the Killeur -Rouge,[II-24] of the Gens des Feuilles, and a Fols Avoin, came to the -post. He said that having struck our trail below and finding some to -be shoe-tracks, he conceived it to be the establishment of some -traders, took it, and came to the post. He informed me that Mr. -Dickson had told the Sioux "that they might now hunt where they -pleased, as I had gone ahead and would cause the Chipeways, wherever I -met them, to treat them with friendship; that I had barred up the -mouth of the St. Peters, so that no liquor could ascend that river; -but that if they came on the Mississippi they should have what liquor -they wanted; also, that I was on the river and had a great deal of -merchandise to give them in presents." This information of Mr. Dickson -to the Indians seemed to have self-interest and envy for its motives; -for, by the idea of my having prevented liquor from going up the St. -Peters he gave the Indians to understand that it was a regulation of -my own, and not a law of the United States; by assuring them he would -sell to them on the Mississippi, he drew all the Indians from the -traders on the St. Peters, who had adhered to the restriction of not -selling liquor; and should any of them be killed the blame would all -lie on me, as he had without authority assured them they might hunt in -security. I took care to give the young chief a full explanation of my -ideas on the subject. He remained all night. Killed two deer. - -_Nov. 30th._ I made the two Indians some small presents. They crossed -the river and departed. Detached Kennerman with 11 men to bring up the -two canoes. - -_Sunday, Dec. 1st._ Snowed a little in the middle of the day. Went out -with my gun, but killed nothing. - -_Dec. 2d._ Sparks arrived from the party below, and informed me they -could not kill any game, but had started up with the little peroque; -also, that Mr. Dickson and a Frenchman had passed my detachment about -three hours before. He left them on their march to the post. Sparks -arrived about ten o'clock at night. - -_Dec. 3d._ Mr. Dickson, with an engagee and a young Indian, arrived -at the fort. I received him with every politeness in my power, and -after a serious conversation with him on the subject of the -information given me on the 29th ult., was induced to believe it in -part incorrect. He assured me that no liquor was sold by him, or by -any houses under his direction. He gave me much useful information -relative to my future route, which gave me great encouragement as to -the certainty of my accomplishing the object of my voyage to the -fullest extent. He seemed to be a gentleman of general commercial -knowledge, possessing much geographical information of the western -country, and of open, frank manners. He gave me many assurances of his -good wishes for the prosperity of my undertaking. - -_Dec. 4th._ My men arrived with one canoe only. Calculated on -returning them two days later. - -_Dec. 5th._ Mr. Dickson, with his two men, departed for their station -[in the vicinity of Thousand Islands, below St. Cloud], after having -furnished me with a letter for a young man of his house on Lake de -Sable [Sandy lake], and _carte blanche_ as to my commands on him. -Weather mild. - -_Dec. 6th._ I dispatched my men down to bring up the other peroque -with a strong sled on which it was intended to put the canoe about -one-third, and to let the end drag on the ice. Three families of the -Fols Avoins arrived and encamped near the fort; also, one Sioux, who -pretended to have been sent to me from the Gens des Feuilles, to -inform me that the Yanctongs and Sussitongs,[II-25] two bands of Sioux -from the head of the St. Peters and the Missouri, and the most savage -of them, had commenced the war-dance and would depart in a few days; -in which case he conceived it would be advisable for the Fols Avoins -to keep close under my protection; that making a stroke on the -Chipeways would tend to injure the grand object of my voyage, etc. -Some reasons induced me to believe he was a self-created envoy; -however, I offered to pay him, or any young Sioux, who would go to -those bands and carry my word. He promised to make known my wishes -upon his return. My men returned in the evening without my canoe, -having been so unfortunate as to split her in carrying her over the -rough hilly ice in the ripples below. So many disappointments almost -wearied out my patience; notwithstanding, I intended to embark by land -and water in a few days. - -_Dec. 7th._ An Indian by the name of Chien Blanche,[II-26] of the Fols -Avoin tribe, with his family and connections, arrived and encamped -near the stockade. He informed me that he had wintered here for ten -years past; that the sugar-camp near the stockade was where he made -sugar. He appeared to be an intelligent man. I visited his camp in the -afternoon, and found him seated amidst his children and grandchildren, -amounting in all to ten. His wife, although of an advanced age, was -suckling two children that appeared to be about two years old. I -should have taken them to be twins, had not one been much fairer than -the other. Upon inquiry, however, I found that the fairest was the -daughter of an Englishman, by one of the Indian's daughters, lately -deceased; since whose death the grandmother had taken it to the -breast. His lodge was made of rushes plaited into mats, after the -manner of the Illinois. I was obliged to give some meat to all the -Indians who arrived at the stockade, at the same time explaining our -situation. The Chien Blanche assured me it should be repaid with -interest in the course of the winter, but that at that time he was -without anything to eat. In fact, our hunters having killed nothing -for several days, we were ourselves on short allowance. - -_Dec. 8th._ An invalid Sioux arrived with the information that the -bands of the Sussitongs and Yanctongs had actually determined to make -war on the Chipeways, and that they had formed a party of 150 or 160 -men; but that part of the Sussitongs had refused to go to war, and -would be here on a visit to me the next day. This occasioned me to -delay crossing the river immediately, on my voyage to Lake Sang Sue -[Leech lake], as it was possible that by having a conference with them -I might still prevent the stroke intended to be made against the -Chipeways. - -_Dec. 9th._ Prepared to embark. Expecting the Sioux, I had two large -kettles of soup made for them. Had a shooting-match with four prizes. -The Sioux did not arrive, and we ate the soup ourselves. Crossed the -river and encamped above the [Knife or Pike] rapids.[II-27] Wind changed -and it grew cold. - -_Dec. 10th._ After arranging our sleds and peroque we commenced our -march. My sleds were such as are frequently seen about farmers' yards, -calculated to hold two barrels or 400 weight, in which two men were -geared abreast. The sleds on the prairie and the peroque were towed by -three men. Found it extremely difficult to get along, the snow being -melted off the prairie in spots. The men who had the canoe were -obliged to wade and drag her over the rocks in many places. Shot the -only deer I saw; it fell three times, and then made its escape. This -was a great disappointment, for upon the game we took now we depended -for our subsistence. This evening disclosed to my men the real danger -they had to encounter. Distance five miles.[II-28] - -_Dec. 11th._ It having thawed all night, the snow had almost melted -from the prairie. I walked on until ten o'clock, and made a fire. I -then went back to look for the peroque, and at a remarkable [Little -Elk] rapid in the river, opposite a high piny island, made a fire and -waited for them to come up, when we partly unloaded. I returned and -met the sleds. When we arrived at the place pitched on for our camp, I -sent the men down to assist the peroque. In the afternoon, from about -three o'clock, we heard the report of not less than 50 guns ahead, and -after dusk much shooting on the prairie. I was at a loss to know who -they could be, unless they were Sauteaux, and what could be their -object in shooting after dark. Kept a good lookout. Distance five -miles.[II-29] - -_Dec. 12th._ The snow having almost entirely left the prairie, we were -obliged to take on but one sled at a time and treble man it. In the -morning my interpreter came to me with quite a martial air, and -requested that he might be allowed to go ahead to discover what -Indians we heard fire last evening. I gave him permission and away he -went. Shortly after, I went out with Corporal Bradley and a private, -and in about an hour overtook my partizan, on a bottom close to the -river; he was hunting raccoons, and had caught five. We left him; and -after choosing an encampment and sending the private back to conduct -the party to it, the corporal and myself marched on, anxious to -discover the Indians. We ascended the river about eight miles; saw no -Indians, but discovered that the river was frozen over. This pleased -me more, for we would now be enabled to walk three times our usual -distance in a day. - -I was much surprised that we saw no Indians. After our return to camp -I was told that a Fols Avoin Indian had met my party and informed them -that in the rear of the hills that bordered the prairie there were -many small lakes which by portages communicated with Lake Superior; -that in one day's march on that course we would find English -trading-houses; that the Chipeways were there hunting; that the Sioux -who had visited my camp on the 29th ult., on hearing the firing, had -prudently returned with his companions to the west side of the -Mississippi, agreeably to my advice. How persons unacquainted with the -searching spirit of trade and the enterprise of the people of the -northwest would be surprised to find people who had penetrated from -Lake Superior to lakes little more than marshes! It likewise points -out the difficulty of putting a barrier on their trade. - -All my sleds and peroques did not get up until half-past ten o'clock. -Saw a very beautiful fox, with red back, white tail and breast. My -interpreter called them reynard d'argent [silver fox]. I had no -opportunity of shooting him. Killed six raccoons and one porcupine -[_Erethizon dorsatum_]. Fine day. Distance seven miles.[II-30] - -_Dec. 13th._ Made double trips. Embarked at the upper end of the -ripples. It commenced snowing at three o'clock. Bradley killed one -deer, another man killed one raccoon. Storm continued until next -morning. Distance five miles.[II-31] - -_Dec. 14th._ We departed from our encampment at the usual hour, but -had not advanced one mile when the foremost sled, which happened -unfortunately to carry my baggage and ammunition, fell into the river. -We were all in the river up to our middle in recovering the things. -Halted and made a fire. Came to where the river was frozen over. -Stopped and encamped on the west shore, in a pine wood ["Pine camp" of -Mar. 4th, 1806]. Upon examining my things, found all my baggage wet -and some of my books materially injured; but a still greater injury -was, that all my cartridges and four pounds of double battle Sussex -powder which I had brought for my own use, were destroyed. Fortunately -my kegs of powder were preserved dry, and some bottles of common -glazed powder, which were so tightly corked as not to admit water. Had -this not been the case, my voyage must necessarily have been -terminated, for we could not have subsisted without ammunition. During -the time of our misfortune, two Fols Avoin Indians came to us, one of -whom was at my stockade on the 29th ult., in company with the Sioux. I -signified to them by signs the place of our encampment, and invited -them to come and encamp with us. They left me and both arrived at my -camp in the evening, having each a deer which they presented me; I -gave them my canoe to keep until spring, and in the morning at parting -made them a small present. Sat up until three o'clock drying and -assorting my ammunition, baggage, etc. Killed two deer. Distance four -miles. - -_Sunday, Dec. 15th._ Remained at our camp making sleds. Killed two -deer. Crossed and recrossed several Indian trails in the woods. - -_Dec. 16th._ Remained at the same camp, employed as yesterday. Killed -three deer. I wounded a buffalo in the shoulder, and by a fair race -overtook him in the prairie and gave him another shot; but it being -near night left him till morning.[II-32] - -_Dec. 17th._ Departed from our agreeable encampment at an early hour. -Found our sleds to be very heavily loaded. Broke one sled-runner and -were detained by other circumstances. Bradley, Rosseau the -interpreter, and myself killed four deer and wounded five others. -Having 11 on hand already, I found it necessary to leave behind some -of my other lading. At night we dug a hole, four feet deep, three feet -wide, and six feet long, in which we put one barrel of pork and one -barrel of flour, after wrapping them up in seven deerskins to preserve -them from the damp; we then filled up the hole and built our fire -immediately over it.[II-33] - -_Dec. 18th._ Did not get off until eight o'clock, from the delay in -bringing in our meat. Ice tolerably good. Began to see the Chipeway -encampments very frequently, but had not entirely left the Sioux -country on the western shore. Beautiful pine ridges. - -_Dec. 19th._ Were obliged to take to the prairie, from the river's -being open: but the snow was frozen hard and the sleds did not sink -deep, so that we made a pretty good day's journey. Killed one deer -and two otters. River still open. Distance 10 miles.[II-34] - -_Dec. 20th._ Traveled part of the day on the prairie and on the ice. -Killed one deer. Heard three reports of guns just at sunset, from the -opposite side of the river. Deposited one barrel of flour. Distance -seven miles.[II-35] - -_Dec. 21st._ Bradley and myself went on ahead and overtook my -interpreter, who had left camp very early in hopes that he would be -able to see the river De Corbeau, where he had twice wintered. He was -immediately opposite a large island [Ile de Corbeau[II-36]], which he -supposed to have great resemblance to an island opposite the mouth of -the above river; but finally he concluded it was not the island and -returned to camp. But this was actually the [Riviere de Corbeau or -Crow Wing] river, as we discovered when we got to the head of the -island, from which we could see the river's entrance. This fact -exposes the ignorance and inattention of the French and traders, and, -with the exception of a few intelligent men, what little confidence is -to be placed on their information. We ascended the Mississippi about -five miles above the confluence; found it not frozen, but in many -places not more than 100 yards over, mild and still; it had indeed all -the appearance of a small river of a low country. Returned and found -that my party, having broken sleds, etc., had only made good three -miles, while I had marched 35. - -_Sunday, Dec. 22d._ Killed three deer. Owing to the many difficult -places we had to pass, made but 41/2 miles. - -_Dec. 23d._ Never did I undergo more fatigue, performing the duties of -hunter, spy, guide, commanding officer, etc., sometimes in front, -sometimes in the rear, frequently in advance of my party 10 or 15 -miles. At night I was scarcely able to make my notes intelligible. -Killed two raccoons. From our sleds breaking down, and having to make -so many portages on the road, made but four miles.[II-37] - -_Dec. 24th._ Took the latitude of the Isle de Corbeau, and found it to -be in 45 deg. 49' 50" N. [It is above 46 deg.] The Mississippi becomes very -narrow above the river De Corbeau; and, as if it were the forks, -changes its direction from hard W. [read N.] to N. E. generally.[II-38] -Distance 101/2 miles.[II-39] - -_Dec. 25th._ Marched, and encamped at eleven o'clock. Gave out two -pounds of extra meat, two pounds of extra flour, one gill of whisky, -and some tobacco per man, in order to distinguish Christmas Day. -Distance three miles. [Not quite to Brainerd yet.] - -_Dec. 26th._ Broke four sleds, broke into the river four times, and -had four carrying-places, since we left the river De Corbeau. The -timber was all yellow and pitch pine, of which there were scarcely any -below. Distance three miles.[II-40] - -_Dec. 27th._ After two carrying-places we arrived where the river was -completely closed with ice; after which we proceeded with some degree -of speed and ease. Killed one bear. The country on both sides -presented a dreary and barren prospect of high rocks, with dead pine -timber. Snow. Distance 10 miles.[II-41] - -_Dec. 28th._ Two sleds fell through the ice. In the morning passed a -very poor country with bare knobs on each side; but toward evening the -bottoms became larger and the pine ridges better timbered. Bradley and -myself marched 10 miles beyond the sleds. Killed one deer. Distance 12 -miles.[II-42] - -_Sunday, Dec. 29th._ Cold, windy day. Met with no material -interruptions; passed some rapids. The snow blew from the woods on to -the river. The country was full of small lakes, some three miles in -circumference. Distance 21 miles.[II-43] - -_Dec. 30th._ The snow having drifted on the ice retarded the sleds. -Numerous small lakes and pine ridges continued. A new species of pine, -called the French sap pine. Killed one otter [_Lutra canadensis_]. -Distance 12 miles.[II-44] - -_Dec. 31st._ Passed Pine[II-45] river about eleven o'clock. At its -mouth there was a Chipeway's encampment of 15 lodges; this had been -occupied in the summer, but was now vacant. By the significations of -their marks we understood that they had marched a party of 50 warriors -against the Sioux, and had killed four men and four women, which were -represented by images carved out of pine or cedar. The four men were -painted and put in the ground to the middle, leaving above ground -those parts which are generally concealed; by their sides were four -painted poles, sharpened at the end to represent the women. Near this -were poles with deerskins, plumes, silk handkerchiefs, etc.; also, a -circular hoop of cedar with something attached, representing a scalp. -Near each lodge they had holes dug in the ground, and boughs ready to -cover them, as a retreat for their women and children if attacked by -the Sioux. - -_Wednesday, Jan. 1st, 1806._ Passed on the bank of the river [1 m. -above Dean brook] six very elegant bark canoes, which had been laid up -by the Chipeways; also, a camp which we conceived to have been -evacuated about ten days. My interpreter came after me in a great -hurry, conjuring me not to go so far ahead, and assured me that the -Chipeways, encountering me without an interpreter, party, or flag, -would certainly kill me. Notwithstanding this I went on several miles -further than usual, in order to make any discoveries that were to be -made; conceiving the savages not so barbarous or ferocious as to fire -on two men (I had one with me) who were apparently coming into their -country, trusting to their generosity; and knowing that if we met only -two or three we were equal to them, I having my gun and pistols and -he his buck-shot. Made some extra presents for New Year's Day. - -_Jan. 2d._ Fine warm day. Discovered fresh sign of Indians. Just as we -were encamping at night, my sentinel informed us that some Indians -were coming full speed upon our trail or track. I ordered my men to -stand by their guns carefully. They were immediately at my camp, and -saluted the flag by a discharge of three pieces; when four Chipeways, -one Englishman, and a Frenchman of the N. W. Company, presented -themselves. They informed us that some women, having discovered our -trail, gave the alarm, and not knowing but it was their enemies, they -had departed to make a discovery. They had heard of us and revered our -flag. Mr. [Cuthbert?] Grant, the Englishman, had only arrived the day -before from Lake De Sable [Sandy lake], from which he had marched in -one day and a half. I presented the Indians with half a deer, which -they received thankfully, for they had discovered our fires some days -ago, and believing it to be the Sioux, they dared not leave their -camp. They returned, but Mr. Grant remained all night. - -_Jan. 3d._ My party marched early, but I returned with Mr. Grant to -his establishment on [Lower] Red Cedar Lake, having one corporal with -me. When we came in sight of his house I observed the flag of Great -Britain flying. I felt indignant, and cannot say what my feelings -would have excited me to do, had he not informed me that it belonged -to the Indians. This was not much more agreeable to me. After -explaining to a Chipeway warrior called Curly Head [Curleyhead in text -of 1807, p. 33[II-46]] the object of my voyage, and receiving his -answer that he would remain tranquil until my return, we ate a good -breakfast for the country, departed, and overtook my sleds just at -dusk. Killed one porcupine. Distance 16 miles.[II-47] - -_Jan. 4th._ We made 28 points[II-48] in the river; broad, good bottom, -and of the usual timber. In the night I was awakened by the cry of the -sentinel, calling repeatedly to the men; at length he vociferated, -"G--d d--n your souls, will you let the lieutenant be burned to -death?" This immediately aroused me. At first I seized my arms, but -looking round I saw my tents in flames. The men flew to my assistance -and we tore them down, but not until they were entirely ruined. This, -with the loss of my leggins, mockinsons, socks, etc., which I had -hung up to dry, was no trivial misfortune, in such a country and on -such a voyage. But I had reason to thank God that the powder, three -small casks of which I had in my tent, did not take fire; if it had I -must certainly have lost all my baggage, if not my life. - -_Sunday, Jan. 5th._ Mr. Grant promised to overtake me yesterday, but -has not yet arrived. I conceived it would be necessary to attend his -motions with careful observation. Distance 27 miles.[II-49] - -_Jan. 6th._ Bradley and myself walked up 31 points, in hopes to -discover Lake De Sable [Sandy lake]; but finding a near cut of 20 -yards for 10 [two?] miles, and being fearful the sleds would miss it, -we returned 23 points before we found our camp. They had made only -eight points. Met two Frenchmen of the N. W. Company with about 180 -[qu. 80?] pounds on each of their backs, with rackets [snowshoes] on; -they informed me that Mr. Grant had gone on with the Frenchman. Snow -fell all day and was three feet deep. Spent a miserable night. - -_Jan. 7th._ Made but 11 miles, and then were obliged to send ahead and -make fires every three miles; notwithstanding which the cold was so -intense that some of the men had their noses, others their fingers, -and others their toes frozen, before they felt the cold sensibly. Very -severe day's march. - -_Jan. 8th._ Conceiving I was at no great distance from Sandy Lake, I -left my sleds, and with Corporal Bradley took my departure for that -place, intending to send him back the same evening. We walked on very -briskly until near night, when we met a young Indian, one of those who -had visited my camp near [Lower] Red Cedar Lake. I endeavored to -explain to him that it was my wish to go to Lake De Sable that -evening. He returned with me until we came to a trail that led across -the woods; this he signified was a near course. I went this course -with him, and shortly after found myself at a Chipeway encampment, to -which I believe the friendly savage had enticed me with an expectation -that I would tarry all night, knowing that it was too late for us to -make the lake in good season. But upon our refusing to stay, he put us -in the right road. We arrived at the place where the track left the -Mississippi, at dusk, when we traversed about two leagues of a -wilderness, without any very great difficulty, and at length struck -the shore of Lake De Sable, over a branch of which our course lay. The -snow having covered the trail made by the Frenchmen who had passed -before with the rackets, I was fearful of losing ourselves on the -lake; the consequence of which can only be conceived by those who have -been exposed on a lake, or naked plain, a dreary night of January, in -latitude 47 deg. and the thermometer below zero. Thinking that we could -observe the bank of the other shore, we kept a straight course, some -time after discovered lights, and on our arrival were not a little -surprised to find a large stockade. The gate being open, we entered -and proceeded to the quarters of Mr. Grant, where we were treated with -the utmost hospitality. - -_Jan. 9th._ Marched the corporal [back] early, in order that our men -should receive assurances of our safety and success. He carried with -him a small keg of spirits, a present from Mr. Grant. The -establishment of this place was formed 12 years since by the N. W. -Company, and was formerly under the charge of a Mr. Charles Brusky -[Bousquai[II-50]]. It has attained at present such regularity as to -permit the superintendent to live tolerably comfortable. They have -horses procured from Red river of the Indians; raise plenty of Irish -potatoes; catch pike, suckers, pickerel, and white-fish in abundance. -They have also beaver, deer, and moose; but the provision they chiefly -depend upon is wild oats, of which they purchase great quantities from -the savages, giving at the rate of about $1.50 per bushel. But flour, -pork, and salt are almost interdicted to persons not principals in the -trade. Flour sells at 50 cts.; salt, $1; pork, 80 cts.; sugar, 50 -cts.; coffee, ----, and tea, $4.50 per pound. The sugar is obtained -from the Indians, and is made from the maple tree. - -_Jan. 10th._ Mr. Grant accompanied me to the Mississippi to mark the -place for my boats to leave that river. This was the first time I -marched on rackets. I took the course of [Sandy] Lake river, from its -mouth to the lake. Mr. Grant fell through the ice with his rackets on, -and could not have got out without assistance. - -_Jan. 11th._ Remained all day within quarters. - -_Sunday, Jan. 12th_. Went out and met my men about 16 miles. A tree -had fallen on one of them and hurt him very much, which induced me to -dismiss a sled and put the lading on the others. - -_Jan. 13th._ After encountering much difficulty, we [the main party] -arrived at the establishment of the N. W. Company on Lake de Sable, a -little before night. The ice being very bad on [Sandy] Lake river, -owing to the many springs and marshes, one sled fell through. My men -had an excellent room furnished them, and were presented with potatoes -and fille (cant term for a dram of spirits). Mr. Grant had gone to an -Indian lodge to receive his credits. - -_Jan. 14th._ Crossed the lake to the north side, that I might take an -observation; found the lat. 46 deg. 9' 20" N. [it is about 46 deg. 46']. -Surveyed that part of the lake. Mr. Grant returned from the Indian -lodges. They brought a quantity of furs and 11 beaver carcases. - -_Jan. 15th._ Mr. Grant and myself made the tour of the lake, with two -men whom I had for attendants. Found it to be much larger than could -be imagined at a view. My men sawed stocks for the sleds, which I -found it necessary to construct after the manner of the country. On -our march met an Indian coming into the fort; his countenance -expressed no little astonishment when told who I was and whence I -came; for the people in this country themselves acknowledge that the -savages hold the Americans in greater veneration than any other white -people. They say of us, when alluding to warlike achievements, that we -"are neither Frenchmen nor Englishmen, but white Indians." - -_Jan. 16th._ Laid down Lake De Sable, etc. A young Indian whom I had -engaged to go as a guide to Lake Sang Sue [Leech Lake], arrived from -the woods. - -_Jan. 17th._ Employed in making sleds, or _traineaux de glace_, after -the manner of the country. Those sleds are made of a single plank -turned up at one end like a fiddlehead, and the baggage is lashed on -in bags and sacks. Two other Indians arrived from the woods. Engaged -in writing. - -_Jan. 18th._ Busy in preparing my baggage for my departure for Leech -Lake, reading, etc. - -_Sunday, Jan. 19th._ Employed as yesterday. Two men of the N. W. -Company arrived from Fond du Lac Superior with letters, one of which -was from their establishment in Athapuscow [Athapasca], and had been -since last May on the route. While at this post I ate roasted beavers, -dressed in every respect as a pig is usually dressed with us; it was -excellent. I could not discern the least taste of Des Bois [_i. e._, -of the wood on which beavers feed]. I also ate boiled moose's head: -when well boiled, I consider it equal to the tail of the beaver; in -taste and substance they are much alike. - -_Jan. 20th._ The men with the sleds took their departure about two -o'clock. Shortly after I followed them. We encamped at the portage -between the Mississippi and Leech Lake [_i. e._, Willow[II-51]] river. -Snow fell in the night. - -_Jan. 21st._ Snowed in the morning, but we crossed [Willow portage] -about nine o'clock. I had gone on a few points when I was overtaken by -Mr. Grant, who informed me that the sleds could not get along, in -consequence of water being on the ice [of Willow river]; he sent his -men forward. We returned and met the sleds, which had scarcely -advanced one mile. We unloaded them and sent eight men back to the -post [on Sandy lake] with whatever might be denominated extra -articles; but in the hurry sent my salt and ink. Mr. Grant encamped -with me and marched early in the morning [of the 22d]. - -_Jan. 22d._ Made a pretty good day's journey. My Indian came up about -noon. Distance 20 miles. - -_Jan. 23d._ Marched about 18 miles. Forgot my thermometer, having hung -it on a tree; sent Boley back five miles for it. My young Indian and -myself killed eight partridges; took him to live with me. - -_Jan. 24th._ At our encampment this night Mr. Grant had encamped on -the night of the same day he left me; it was three days' march for us. -In the evening the father of his girl came to my camp and stayed all -night; he appeared very friendly and was very communicative; but -having no interpreter, we made but little progress in conversation. It -was late before the men came up. - -_Jan. 25th._ Traveled almost all day through the lands, and found them -much better than usual. Boley lost the Sioux pipestem which I carried -along for the purpose of making peace with the Chipeways; I sent him -back for it; he did not return until eleven o'clock at night. It was -very warm; thawing all day. Distance 44 points. - -_Sunday, Jan. 26th._ I left my party in order to proceed to a house or -lodge of Mr. Grant's on the Mississippi [opposite Grand Rapids], where -he was to tarry until I overtook him. Took with me my Indian, Boley, -and some trifling provision; the Indian and myself marched so fast -that we left Boley on the route about eight miles from the lodge. Met -Mr. Grant's men on their return to Lake De Sable, they having -evacuated the house this morning, and Mr. Grant having marched -[thence] for Leech Lake. The Indian and I arrived before sundown [at -Grant's house[II-52]]. Passed the night very uncomfortably, having -nothing to eat, not much wood, nor any blankets. The Indian slept -sound. I cursed his insensibility, being obliged to content myself -over a few coals all night. Boley did not arrive. In the night the -Indian mentioned something about his son, etc. - -_Monday, Jan. 27th._ My Indian rose early, mended his mockinsons, then -expressed by signs something about his son and the Frenchman we met -yesterday. Conceiving that he wished to send some message to his -family, I suffered him to depart. After his departure I felt the curse -of solitude, although he truly was no company. Boley arrived about ten -o'clock. He said that he had followed us until some time in the night; -when, believing that he could not overtake us, he stopped and made a -fire; but having no ax to cut wood, he was near freezing. He met the -Indians, who made him signs to go on. I spent the day in putting my -gun in order, mending my mockinsons, etc. Provided plenty of wood; -still found it cold, with but one blanket. - -I can only account for the gentlemen of the N. W. Company contenting -themselves in this wilderness for 10, 15, and some of them for 20 -years, by the attachment they contract for the Indian women. It -appears to me that the wealth of nations would not induce me to remain -secluded from the society of civilized mankind, surrounded by a savage -and unproductive wilderness, without books or other sources of -intellectual enjoyment, or being blessed with the cultivated and -feeling mind of a civilized fair [one]. - -_Tuesday, Jan. 28th._ [My party joined Boley and myself at Grant's -house to-day. _Wednesday, Jan. 29th._[II-53] Took Miller and proceeded -ahead of my party; reached Pakagama falls about one o'clock; proceeded -to three deserted Chipeway lodges; found a fine parcel of firewood -split; cut down three sap pines and wove the branches into one of the -lodges to protect ourselves from the storm; had a tolerable night. -_Thursday, Jan. 30th._ Miller and myself] left our encampment at a -good hour; unable to find any trail, passed through one of the most -dismal cypress swamps I ever saw, and struck the Mississippi at a -small lake. Observed Mr. Grant's tracks going through it; found his -mark of a cut-off, agreed on between us; took it, and proceeded very -well until we came to a small lake where the trail was entirely hid. -But after some search on the other side, found it; when we passed -through a dismal swamp, on the other side of which we found a large -lake at which I was entirely at a loss; no trail was to be seen. -Struck a [White Oak[II-54]] point about three miles, where we found a -Chipeway lodge of one man, his wife, five children, and one old woman. -They received us with every mark that distinguished their barbarity, -such as setting their dogs on ours, trying to thrust their hands into -our pockets, etc. But we convinced them that we were not afraid, and -let them know we were Chewockomen[II-55] (Americans), when they used us -more civilly. - -After we had arranged a camp as well as possible, I went into the -lodge; they presented me with a plate of dried meat. I ordered Miller -to bring about two gills of liquor, which made us all good friends. -The old squaw gave me more meat, and offered me tobacco, which, not -using, I did not take. I gave her an order upon my corporal for one -knife and half a carrot of tobacco. Heaven clothes the lilies and -feeds the ravens, and the same almighty Providence protects and -preserves these creatures. After I had gone out to my fire, the old -man came out and proposed to trade beaver-skins for whisky; meeting -with a refusal, he left me; when presently the old woman came out with -a beaver-skin; she also being refused, he returned to the charge with -a quantity of dried meat, which, or any other, I should have been glad -to have had. I gave him a peremptory refusal; then all further -application ceased. It really appeared that with one quart of whisky I -might have bought all they possessed. Night remarkably cold; was -obliged to sit up nearly the whole of it. Suffered much with cold and -from want of sleep. - -_Friday, Jan. 31st._ Took my clothes into the Indian's lodge to dress, -and was received very coolly; but by giving him a dram unasked, and -his wife a little salt, I received from them directions for my route. -Passed the lake or morass, and opened on meadows through which the -Mississippi winds its course of nearly 15 miles long. Took a straight -course through them to the head, when I found we had missed the river; -made a turn of about two miles and regained it. Passed a fork which I -supposed to be [that coming from] Lake Winipie [or Winipeque, _i. e._, -the main Mississippi river coming from Lake Winnibigoshish], making -the course N. W. The branch we took was Leech Lake branch, course S. -W. and W. Passed a very large meadow or prairie, course W.[II-56] The -[Leech Lake branch of the] Mississippi is only 15 yards wide. -Encamped about one mile below the traverse of the meadow. - -Saw a very large animal which, from its leaps, I supposed to have been -a panther; but if so, it was twice as large as those on the lower -Mississippi. He evinced some disposition to approach. I lay down -(Miller being in the rear) in order to entice him to come near, but he -would not. The night was remarkably cold. Some spirits which I had in -a small keg congealed to the consistency of honey. - -FOOTNOTES: - -[II-1] The village which Pike visited is marked on his map on the west, -upper, or left bank of the Minnesota r., which here runs little E. of -N. into the Mississippi. The hill on the point whence the Sioux -saluted him so savagely was the scene of many a more warlike -demonstration in after-years; for here was built Fort St. Anthony, -later known as Fort Snelling, one of the most important and permanent -military establishments in the United States, and for nearly half a -century the most notable place on the Mississippi above Prairie du -Chien. It was erected on the land which Pike secured by the -transaction his text is about to describe, and which extended thence -up the river to include the falls of St. Anthony, and thus the site of -the present great city of Minneapolis, with St. Paul the twin -metropolis of the Northwest. The location of Fort Snelling is in -Nicollet's opinion "the finest site on the Mississippi river"; and I -should be the last to dissent from this judgment, after my enjoyable -visit to the fort in 1873, at the invitation of General Alexander. The -bluff headland is about 105 feet above the water; the two rivers -separated by this rocky point are respectively over 300 and nearly 600 -feet broad. The height of Pilot Knob, across the Minnesota r., is -about 250 feet. The plateau on the point of which the fort is situated -stretches indefinitely S. W.; 8 m. direct N. W. are Minneapolis and -the falls. The Mississippi receives the Minnesota at the point of -greatest convexity of a deep bend to the S., duplicating that bend to -the N. on which St. Paul is situated, the two together forming quite a -figure of =S=. Nothing came of Pike's recommendation of this site for a -military post till a report to the same effect was made by Major Long, -after his expedition of 1817, during which he reached the place at 2 -p. m., Wednesday, July 16th. On Feb. 10th, 1819, the Secretary of War, -John C. Calhoun, ordered the 5th infantry to proceed to the -Mississippi and establish regimental headquarters at the mouth of St. -Peter's r. A detachment of troops, mustering 98 rank and file, under -Colonel Henry Leavenworth, who had become lieutenant-colonel of that -regiment Feb. 10th, 1818, was first cantoned at New Hope, near -Mendota, Sept. 24th, 1819, and preparations were begun at once for a -permanent structure. The winter of 1819-20 was disastrous from scurvy. -On May 5th, 1820, camp was shifted to a place near a spring, above the -graveyard, and was thereupon named Camp Coldwater. In the spring of -1820 Jean Baptiste Faribault located himself in the vicinity; Governor -Lewis Cass came from his exploration of the upper Mississippi during -the summer, and Lawrence Taliaferro's Indian agency was established as -Camp St. Peter's. As usual, the colonel commanding and the Indian -agent clashed, notably in the matters of medals and whisky. In August, -1820, Colonel Josiah Snelling, who had become colonel of the regiment -June 1st, 1819, arrived and relieved Colonel Leavenworth of the -command. He determined to build on the point originally selected by -Pike. The corner-stone of Fort St. Anthony is supposed to have been -laid Sept. 10th, 1820; and the building was so far forward in the -autumn of 1822 that the troops moved in, though it was not completed. -It is traditional that a tree on which Pike had cut his name was -ordered to be spared in the process of construction; but, if so, it -soon disappeared. On May 10th, 1823, the first steamboat, the -Virginia, reached the fort. It brought among other notables the -Chevalier Beltrami. On July 3d, 1823, Major Long arrived, en route to -his exploration of St. Peter's r. In 1824 General Winfield Scott -visited the fort on a tour of inspection. It does not appear to have -struck anybody before that the name of a professional saint of the -Prince of Peace was absurdly inapplicable to any military -establishment. General Scott very sensibly reported that the name was -"foreign to all our associations," besides being "geographically -incorrect," and recommended the post to be named Fort Snelling, in -well-deserved compliment to the distinguished officer who had built -it. The story of Fort Snelling, from its inception to the end of all -Indian collisions, is an integral and very prominent part of the -history of Minnesota; it is an honorable record, of which citizens and -soldiery may be equally proud--one replete with stirring scenes and -thrilling episodes, which in the lapse of years tradition has -delighted to set in all the glamour of romance. But the most sober -historians have found a wealth of material in the stern actualities of -Fort Snelling. The facts in the case need no embellishment. The -following are some of the many references that could be given to the -early history of Fort Snelling: Occurrences in and around Fort -Snelling from 1819 to 1840, E. D. Neill, M. H. C., II. Part 2, 1864; -2d ed. 1881, pp. 102-42. Early Days at Fort Snelling, Anon., M. H. C., -I. Part 5, 1856; 2d ed. 1872, pp. 420-438 (many inaccuracies in dates, -etc.). Running the Gauntlet, _ibid._, pp. 439-56, Anon., believed to -be by W. J. Snelling, son of Josiah Snelling. Reminiscences of Mrs. -Ann Adams, 1821-29, M. H. C., VI. Part 2, 1891, pp. 93-112. -Autobiography of Maj. Lawrence Taliaferro, written in 1864, M. H. C., -VI. Part 2, pp. 189-255 (specially interesting, as he was Indian -agent, 1819-40). - -[II-2] Pike's speech at this memorable conference, the treaty itself, -and a long letter which Pike addressed to Wilkinson in this connection -on the 23d, 24th, and 25th, formed Docs. Nos. 4 and 5 of the App. to -Part 1 of the orig. ed. These are given in full beyond, Chap. V. Arts. -4, 5, and 6, where the text of the treaty is subjected to a searching -criticism in the light of subsequent events. Here we may conveniently -note the names of the chiefs concerned in the transaction. The best -article I have seen upon this subject is that by Dr. Thomas Foster of -Duluth, in the St. Paul Daily Democrat of May 4th, 1854, as cited by -J. Fletcher Williams in Minn. Hist. Coll., I. 2d ed. 1872, p. 379; -this, however, requires some additions and corrections. - -1. Little Crow and Little Raven are English equivalents of Petit -Corbeau, which latter is a French version of the name of the -hereditary chiefs of the Kapoja band, borne by successive individuals -through several generations. Pike's Little Crow is said by Long to -have been son of Little Crow, who was himself son of Little Crow; and -Foster identifies Pike's Little Crow "as the grandfather of the -present chief, Little Crow," _i. e._, of one of this name who was chief -in 1854, adding neatly that "he was the Great Crow of all," _i. e._, -the most celebrated of all those who bore the name. This reference -would seem to cover five generations, from Pike's Little Crow backward -to his grandfather and forward to his grandson. Riggs renders Pike's -Little Crow's name Chatanwakoowamani, Who-walks-pursuing-a-hawk; says -that his son's name was Wamdetanka, or Big Eagle, who flourished in -the thirties; and adds that the dynasty became extinct with -Taoyatidoota (or Towaiotadootah), who was the Little Crow of the Sioux -outbreak of 1862. He was a very black crow indeed, this last of the -_Corvidae_, and was killed by a Mr. Lamson in 1863. Confining attention -now to the one who seems by this reckoning to have been Little Crow -III. of the series I.-V., we find him tabulated by Pike as -Chatewaconamini. We have already found him cited by Long as -Chetanwakoamene, rendered Good Sparrow Hunter. Beltrami, II. p. 191, -presents Chatewaconamani, or the Little Raven, as the chief in 1823. -Featherstonhaugh has a chief he calls Tchaypehamonee, or Little Crow, -living in 1835. Rev. Dr. Neill has in one place Chatonwahtooamany, Petit -Corbeau. Dr. Foster gives the Dakota name as Tchahtanwahkoowahmane, -or the Hawk that Chases Walking. Pike's Little Crow lived many years -after he "touched the quill" (signed his x mark) to the cession, and -was in Washington in 1824. Schoolcraft, who held a council with the -Wahpeton Sioux at Fort Snelling, July 25th, 1832, says, Narr., etc., -1834, p. 146: "The aged chief Petite [_sic_] Corbeau uttered their -reply. I recognized in this chief one of the signers of the grant of -land made at this place 26 years ago, when the site of the fort was -first visited by the late General Pike." The death of this good man -(in 1834?) occurred from a mortal wound he accidentally inflicted upon -himself in drawing his gun from a wagon, at his village of Kaposia. -The circumstances are narrated with interesting particulars by General -H. H. Sibley, Minn. Hist. Coll., III. 1874, pp. 251-54. - -2. The chief here and consistently throughout Pike's book of 1810 -called Fils de Pinchow appears in the 1807 text as Fils de Penichon, -Penechon, or Pinechon; but nowhere are we told of whom this eminent -individual was the son. The name seems to have been one to conjure -with; and our curiosity is excited to discover Pinchow I., who was -such a personage that Pike's Fils de Pinchow, or Pinchow II., needed -no other title to glory. On looking up this subject, I find, first, -that "Pinchow," as rendered in the above text, and the three forms -given in the 1807 print, are four variants of a word which is also -written Pinichon, Pinchon, Penition, Pinneshaw, etc., in French or -English; and that these are corruptions of a Dakota word. Thus -Beltrami, II. p. 207, introduces us to one Tacokoquipesceni, or -Panisciowa, as being in 1823 chief of the old village on the St. -Peter's, three miles above its mouth. The shorter name which Beltrami -uses is obviously the same as Pinchow, etc., while the longer one he -uses is the same as that Takopepeshene of which we read in Keating's -Long, I. p. 385: "Wapasha formerly lived in that [old] village, but -having removed from it with the greater part of his warriors, a few -preferred remaining there, and chose one of their number as a leader. -His son Takopepeshene, (dauntless,) now [1823] rules over them." We -read further in Keating's Long, I. p. 419, of the Nanpashene, or -"Dauntless Society," as an association of young braves who feared -nothing: see further in this matter, Lewis and Clark, ed. 1893, p. 96. -So the connection of all these words is obvious, though the genetic -relationships of the individuals bearing the name is not so clear. I -suppose that Pike, Beltrami, and Long all refer to one and the same -individual, _i. e._, to the son of that individual whom the warriors -who preferred to remain at the said village chose as their leader. Dr. -Foster, as above cited, says that Pinchon, or Pinichon, etc., was the -grandfather of one Good Road, and in his tribe the most noted chief of -the eastern Sioux; the name conferred upon this chief being -Tahkookeepayshne, or "What is he afraid of?" implying the affirmation -that he was afraid of nothing. This having been corrupted by the -French to Pinchon, etc., and taken up in English as Pinneshaw, etc., -was readopted by the Sioux themselves as a common noun, rather than a -proper name, to designate a very brave man; so that they would speak -of such or such a one as a pinneshaw. Recurring now to the individual -whom Pike names Fils de Pinchow, we elsewhere find him listed by Pike -under the name of Wyaganage, as a chief of the Gens du Lac and head of -the village Pike visited at the mouth of the St. Peter's; this is the -Way Ago Enagee whose name appears above as that of a signer by his =x= -mark of the grant of land; and such appears to be the only name by -which he became officially known to us. It is spelled differently in -every one of the several places where I have found it in print or in -manuscript; but in no case irrecognizably. - -3. We know no more of the Grand Partisan than this name or title. Dr. -Foster supposes him to have been only a principal soldier--certainly -not a chief. - -4. "Le Original Leve" is decidedly original! The queer phrase stands -for L'Orignal Leve, given in the text of 1807 as Le Orignal Leve, and -thus nearly right. The individual thus designated is listed on Pike's -tabular exhibit as Tahamie, Orignal leve, and Rising Moose; he is also -mentioned in Pike's letter to Wilkinson of Sept. 23d-26th, 1805, as -Elan Levie. There is no doubt about the meaning of these phrases; for -_orignal_, _orignac_, _oriniac_, _orenac_, etc., are Basque forms of a -name of the moose, which animal, as well as the elk, is also called -_elan_, while _leve_ certainly implies that the animal had arisen, and -was standing on his legs, not that he was in the act of rising. Dr. -Foster evidently did not know what the French phrase should be, for he -presents Pike's peculiar cacographies, and is brought to book about it -by Mr. Williams; but he gives us some interesting particulars of the -chief who bore these names, and I transcribe his remarks in substance. -Tah'amie, L'Orignal Leve, or Standing Moose is believed to be -identical with an aged Indian whom most old Minnesotians knew by the -name of Tammahhaw, who had but one eye and always wore a stove-pipe -hat. He used to boast that he was the only "American" Sioux--by which -he meant that in the war of 1812, when the Sioux sided with the -British, and Little Crow and Joseph Reinville led a war-party against -the Americans, he refused to join them and went to St. Louis, where he -entered the service of the Americans in the employ of General William -Clark. In 1854 he still treasured a commission he had received in 1814 -(or May 6th, 1816?) from General Clark. Dr. Foster remarks that if -there is no mistake in the identity, the friendship Tahamie conceived -for Pike stood the test of time, and the two fought together against -our common enemies--a fact which our government should not overlook. -One Joseph Mojou, an old Canadian of Point Prescott, told Dr. Foster -that Tamahaw was called by the voyageurs "Old Priest," because he was -such a talker on all occasions; and Dr. Foster remarks that the Sioux -word _tamwamda_, which resembles this Indian's name, means to -vociferate, reiterate, harangue, etc. Mr. E. A. C. Hatch informed Dr. -Foster that when he traded with the Winnebagoes, and with Wabasha's -band of Sioux, he knew the Indian and had seen the commission issued -by General Clark; also, that the Winnebagoes, who were acquainted with -this Indian, translated his name Nazeekah in their language--this -being their word for the pike, a fish, and _tammahhay_ being the -Dakotan word for that fish. According to J. F. Williams, Minn. Hist. -Coll., III. 1874, p. 15, Tahama or Tahamie was called by the French Le -Bourgne (Borgne), and by the English One-eye, or the One-eyed Sioux, -and that the loss of the eye occurred by accident in a game during his -boyhood. He was born at Prairie a l'Aile, the present site of Winona, -and died in April, 1860, "at least 85 years old, though some who knew -him well place his age at nearly 100." A daguerreotype likeness of -him, procured at Wabasha in 1859 by Hon. C. S. Bryant, is in the -possession of the Minnesota Historical Society. - -5. "Le Demi Douzen" is not named elsewhere in this book, and does not -appear at all in the 1807 edition. If the phrase which represents his -name means Half Dozen, or Six, it would be better written Demie -Douzaine, or Demi-douzaine; but we have seen enough of Pike's French -to be already satisfied that he always saluted the letters of the -French alphabet with blank cartridges. The Indian he calls Demi Douzen -is thoroughly identified by Dr. Foster as the father of the present -(1854) chief Little Six, and the chief of the large Sioux village -which was situated 28 m. up the St. Peter's, 3 or 4 m. this side of -the modern Indian village of Shakopee. The father--the one who -attended Pike's conference--was known as Shahkpay, Half Dozen, and -Six; his son as Shahkpaydan, or Little Six, the former being the -second of the name, or Six II., and the latter the third of the name, -or Six III.; but who was the original Half Dozen, or Six I., founder -of this dynasty, we are not informed. Long speaks of Six II. as -Shakpa, chief of the village Taoapa; and Forsyth calls this one "Mr. -Six, a good-for-nothing fellow." - -6. "Le Beccasse" of the above text was a stumbling-block. In the 1807 -edition the term appears as Le Bucasse. It looks as if it were meant -for La Becasse, meaning Woodcock. But Dr. Foster (whose text as cited -by Mr. Williams has Le Boccasse) informs us that the phrase should be -written Bras Casse--by which he evidently means Bras Casse, as he -translates Broken Arm. (Pike's tabular exhibit presents a certain Bras -Casse; but this was a _Sauk_ chief, otherwise Pockquinike.) Broken -Arm's Sioux name is believed by Dr. Foster to have been Wahkantahpay; -"and as late as 1825 he was still living at his small village of -Wahpaykootans, on a lake near the Minnesota [river] some five or six -miles below Prairie La Fleche, now Le Sueur." - -7. Le Boeuf que [qui] Marche, or Walking Buffalo, as we are informed -by Dr. Foster, was also called Tahtawkahmahnee; "he was a kind of -sub-chief of old Wabashaw (who was not present), being also called Red -Wing; and it is from him that the village at the head of Lake Pepin -derives its name. He was the father [Hancock says uncle] of Wahkootay, -the present [1854] old chieftain of the Red Wing band." Compare note -67, p. 69. - -[II-3] Outard Blanche, correctly Outarde Blanche, means White Bustard. -The bustard is a very large bird, many species of which inhabit -Europe, Asia, and Africa, but none America. It may, therefore, be well -to explain that outarde was a name given by the early French in -America to the Canada goose (_Bernicla canadensis_); but that since -this goose is mostly black, the phrase outarde blanche would rather -indicate the snow goose (_Chen hyperboreus_), which when adult is pure -white excepting the tips of the wings. I remember seeing somewhere a -statement, the source of which I cannot now recall, to the effect that -the phrase meant White Buzzard, not White Bustard; in which case the -French form would be Busard Blanc. Major Taliaferro speaks of White -Buzzard in his autobiography, as printed in Minn. Hist. Coll., VI. -Part 2, 1891, p. 225, p. 234, etc. Major Forsyth calls him White -Bustard. However this may be, it is certain that there was a chief of -the name of Mahgossau, who was called Old Bustard, and for many years -known to the whites by the latter designation. For an account of the -stabbing of this chief in a whisky-bout, in the summer of 1820, see -letter of Lawrence Taliaferro, Indian agent at St. Peters, dated Aug. -5th, 1820, in Minn. Hist. Coll., II. Part 2, 1864, 2d ed. 1881, p. -104. - -[II-4] Setting camp close to a small stream which falls in on Pike's -left, and which has acquired great celebrity for its pretty little -water-fall. For this is no other than the Minnehaha. It is a wonder -Pike missed Minnehaha falls; or that, if he was informed of them, he -did not take the trouble to go less than a mile up the stream to see -so pretty a spectacle. About 21/2 m. from Fort Snelling, on the road to -Minneapolis, the stream spills over the bluff, with as clear a descent -as water ordinarily makes from the nozzle of a spout. The picturesque -features of this place may be imagined, or easily inspected by -ordinary tourist travel; the poetical and sentimental are well -developed by Longfellow in Hiawatha; the hydrographic are a creek 5 -yards wide, falling 43 feet in an unbroken parabolic curve. This was -formerly plain Brown's cr. and Brown's fall; Nicollet named the stream -Cascade cr.; but it will doubtless always be best known by the name -which Longfellow transferred from its original to a new application, -to suit the exigencies of verse. This stream is the discharge of Lake -Minnetonka. In its course it receives the outlet of a chain of lakes -from the W., called Bass (modern), Calhoun (Nicollet), and Harriet -(Nicollet); nearer the falls is a set of smaller lakes, whose modern -names are Diamond, Pearl, Duck, Mother, Amelia, and Rice (latter, the -Lake Ann of times when Fort Snelling was Fort St. Anthony, an -expansion of Brown's cr. itself). - -[II-5] The rapids Pike thus ascends to the falls, and the comparative -characters of the two gorges, of the Mississippi and Minnesota -respectively, which unite at Fort Snelling, indicate that in -prehistoric time the falls were located about the position of the -fort. But there has been no natural recession within the brief -historic period--merely a momentary flash on the screen of geologic -duration. The most marked alteration of the falls that we know of was -the accidental result of an unintended interference by man. This -happened from the bursting of a log-boom. "Behind the boom were -thousands of logs two or three feet across and twelve feet long. These -descending by the fall probably acquired a velocity of not less than -64 feet a second, and striking endwise on the debris of the hard -copping rock pulverized it so that the undermining of the soft sand -rock which this debris protected went on with great rapidity," Warren, -Ex. Doc. No. 57, 1866-7, p. 19. On July 5th, 1880, the Minn. Hist. -Soc. celebrated the bi-centennial of the discovery of the falls, and -there is no question that they were first seen of white men by the two -companions of Accault within a few hours of July 5th, 1680, if not by -the light of that very day. The occasion was a buffalo-hunt down river -from the great Sioux town on Lake Buade (Mille Lacs), when the Indians -brought the Picard and the priest (two of their three prisoners) -along. The falls were named by Hennepin Sault de S^t. Antoine de Padoue -(so map, 1683) "in gratitude for the favors done me by the Almighty -through the intercession of that great saint whom we had chosen patron -and protector of all our enterprises," as Shea's tr. Hennep., 1880, p. -200, puts it. What these favors were is not evident in the light of -history; according to Hennepin's own relation, God's gracious designs, -whatever they may have been, were effectually disconcerted by the -Sioux, who took this slavish son of superstition by the nape of the -neck and otherwise subjected him to dire indignities; while as to the -monk Anthony, that Franciscan was born at Lisbon, Aug. 15th, 1195, -died at Padua, June 13th, 1231, and there is not a scintilla of -evidence that he did anything whatever subsequent to this latter date. -We might laugh off even so glaring an anachronism as a mere -theological pleasantry which deceives no one, were it not for the -injustice it does to La Salle, who furnished the sinews of war for -Accault's, Auguelle's, and Hennepin's campaign, and was the only -person who patronized their trip, saving the said Sioux, who turned it -into a personally conducted tour like our modern Cook's. "Saut St. -Antoine" appears on Franquelin's map, 1688. The Sioux called these -falls Minirara, the laughing water, whence Minnehaha. In Dakotan _ira_ -means to laugh, and the reduplicated form _irara_ means to laugh much -or often; but _ira_ is compounded of _i_, the mouth, and _ra_, to -curl; and in its application to the falls _rara_, which is simply _ra_ -reduplicated, should be translated curling and not laughing waters. -Ungeographical transfer of Minnehaha to Brown's falls is simply -poetical license. The Chip. name was Kakabikah, alluding to the -severed rock. Hennepin calls the falls "something very astonishing," -indeed "terrible," _more suo crasso_, and exaggerated the descent of -waters to 50 or 60 feet. Carver brings him to book about this, and -reduces the height to 30 feet. Pike's figures are very close indeed, -and his description is the most accurate we had in 1810; Long makes -the height practically the same, but Pike's breadth of 627 yards was -reduced by Say and Calhoun in 1823 to 594. In view of these good -measurements it is surprising that Schoolcraft elevates the falls to -40 feet perpendicular, and narrows the width to 227 yards. He was a -man of great ability and still greater industry, whose acquirements -were extensive and varied; yet he must be taken warily, for there is -many a loose screw in his handiwork, and no structure is stronger than -its weakest joint. The trouble with Schoolcraft is two-fold; he tried -to cover too much ground to go over it thoroughly, and never emerged -from the penumbra of that same theological occultation which kept -Hennepin's wits in total eclipse. The natural beauty of this cataract -was not destined to be a thing of joy forever; one's emotions, on -beholding it now, are those that might be aroused by any mill-tail of -similar dimensions. But the new beauty of utility has been conferred -by human skill and ingenuity in utilizing the vast water-power, to -which Minneapolis measurably owes her matchless progress and present -opulence; pop. 1870, 13,000; 1880, 47,000; 1885, 129,000; now or -lately, 220,000; thus surpassing the 190,000 of her elder sister, St. -Paul--in fact becoming the alter ego of the wonderful pair. -Considering the rapid building up of the fair interurban district, and -consequently the absorption of respective suburbs into mutualities, it -is logical to infer the complete Siamization of the splendid twins, -and a clutch at the laurels of Chicago or New York. By that time such -scenes as the Mississippi has here transferred to the canvas of human -art will be shifted to the Great Falls of the Missouri, where history -will repeat itself in another magnificent metropolis. Everything -begins in watery elements; the force of falling water controls the -course of empire; and the conversion of gravitational potentialities -into electrical potencies realizes dreams of destiny, without the -intercession of saints or the interference of God. - -[II-6] Decidedly less than this; it is only 18-20 m. by river or rail -from Minneapolis to Anoka, which Pike does not reach till to-morrow -night; to-day's camp between Casey's isls. and Coon cr., in Anoka Co. -if on the right, in Hennepin Co. if on the left. The three rapids he -passed raised him from 792 to 808 feet above sea-level; one of them is -known as Fridley's bar, 5 m. above Minneapolis, 11/2 m. below Durnam's -isl. He had made the usual portage of the falls on the right-hand side -(left bank); and soon after decamping this morning he passed on his -left Bassett's cr., which runs through the city, or recently did -so--what disposition may have since been made of it I do not know. -This was formerly called Falls cr., as by Nicollet, who maps it in -connection with his Lake of the Isles and two other sheets. Either -this or the next above on the same side is also traced on Pike's map, -without name. This next one is Shingle cr., called Omini Wakan cr. by -Nicollet and by Owen; it comes in on the left a mile or more below -Fridley's bar. Half a mile above Durnam's isl., and on the right, is -Rice or Manomin cr., which Nicollet calls Ottonwey r., and connects -with Mde Wakanton l. Pike also traces this one, but by no name. R. R. -station Fridley is near its mouth. (See further under Fridley, in the -index.) - -[II-7] About 8 m., to Anoka, seat of that county, a logging town of -6,000 pop., at mouth of Rum r. Pike first passed Coon cr., right, and -the most difficult rapids he went up are those named for the same -intelligent and ablutionary quadruped, _Procyon lotor_. Coon or Racoon -cr. was formerly known as Peterah cr. Wanyecha (now Elm) cr. falls in -on the left, slightly below Rum r. The latter is a notable stream, -being the main discharge of Mille Lacs, and as such having acquired a -long history. Carver called it Rum r.: "in the little tour I made -about the Falls [of St. A.], after traveling 14 m. by the side of the -Mississippi, I came to a river nearly 20 yards wide which ran from the -north east, called Rum River," he says, p. 45, ed. 1796. This was Nov. -19th, 1767, and the river has oftenest been so designated ever since. -But here is a place where the involuntary exploration which the Sioux -forced on Accault's party comes in, and the Hennepinian canonical -calendar is obtruded as usual, making the following trouble: - -"Eight leagues above St. Anthony of Padua's falls on the right, you -find the river of the Issati or Nadoussiou [Sioux], with a very narrow -mouth, which you can ascend to the north for about 70 leagues to Lake -Buade or of the Issati [Mille Lacs] where it rises. We gave this river -the name of St. Francis," Shea's Henp., tr. 1880, p. 201. In French -the name was R. de St. Francois: so Henp., map, 1683; on Franquelin's, -1688, it is "Riviere des Francois ou des Sioux," which turns it over -from the saint to the French nation, possibly less saintly on the -whole--that is, unless Franquelin intended to cover St. Francis de -Sales, St. Francis d'Assisi, and St. Francis de Paola, or unless _des_ -be a mis-engravement for _de S_. But Franquelin's earlier map, 1683 or -1684, has only R. des Francois, which is there connected with R. de la -Madelaine (St. Croix r.) by R. du Portage, which latter stands for -present Snake r., a branch of the St. Croix. De L'Isle's map, 1703, -avoids any such question by turning the river entirely over to the -Sioux; he letters R. de Mendeouacanion, _i. e._, Mdewakantonwan or -Gens du Lac. A question affecting the identification of St. Francis -with Rum came up in Carver's time, and is still mooted. Carver says, -_ed. cit._ p. 45: "Reached the River St. Francis, near 60 miles above -the Falls. To this river Father Hennipin gave the name," etc. He -reached it Nov. 21st, 1687. This is the stream next _above_ Rum r. on -the same side, now best known as Elk r. But Pike's map letters "Leaf -R. or S^t. Francis of Carver & Henepen"; Long has it S^t. Francis r.; -even Nicollet gives Wichaniwa or St. Francis. Prof. N. H. Winchell -remarks, Hist. Sketch Expl. and Surv. Minn., 4to, p. 15: "On modern -maps the name of St. Francis is applied to the next stream above the -Rum, and that may have been the river to which Hennepin referred in -his journal, since by a portage the route by it to lake Buade is much -less than the course by the Rum river, and the Indians may have -followed that route." I quite agree with my friend the professor that -the Sioux who took charge of Hennepin's "explorations," in spite of -all the saints on the calendar, may have brought him that way from -Mille Lacs to the Mississippi; but the question is not by what river -he came; the question is, Which river did he call R. de St. Francois -and map by this name? To me Hennepin makes it perfectly clear that he -meant Rum r. Thus he fixes it 8 leagues = 23-1/3 m. above the falls, -which is much closer to the actual position of Rum r. than such a -befogged geographer often comes; item, he makes his St. Francois r. -come from Mille Lacs, as Rum r. does and the other one does not (at -least not uninterruptedly); item, his alternative names, r. of the -Issati or Nadoussiou, point directly to Rum r.; item, for a clincher, -Hennepin's map letters R. de St. Francois precisely along the whole -course of Rum r. from the Mississippi to Lac Buade, _and traces the -other river too_, without any name. You seldom find a case clearer -than this seems to me to be. Carver was simply mistaken in identifying -Hennepin's St. Francis with the other river instead of with his own -Rum r.; and this malidentification on Carver's part seems to have -given later writers an unconscious bias in the wrong direction; Pike -makes the same mistake further on in this book. The strongest -counter-argument to my view is that I differ with Nicollet in this -case. It is always unsafe to disagree with that model of caution and -precision; but I must venture to do so in this instance. For the rest, -add to the synonyms of Rum r. the aboriginal name Iskode Wabo, as -given by Nicollet, and the variants of this phrase; also, R. de l'Eau -de Vie of Pike; also, Missayguani-sibi and Brandy r. of Beltrami. F. -_eau de vie_ is obviously the explanation of the "Audevies Cr." of -Lewis and Clark's map, 1814, though the stream thus designated looks -to my eye too low down for Rum r. The source of this river is noted -beyond, where the case of Mille Lacs comes up. - -[II-8] The curious word "brelaw," elsewhere "brelau," which we owe to -Pike, is a corruption of F. _blaireau_, badger. This, of course, -originally denoted the European badger, _Meles taxus_, but was easily -transferred to the generically and specifically different American -badger, _Taxidea americana_. Other forms of similar perversity are -braro, brarow, brairo, braroca, praro, prarow, etc. See L. and C., ed. -1893, p. 64. Pike's original editor of 1807 had _blaireau_, correctly, -but Pike himself seldom got any F. word or phrase exactly right. - -[II-9] Less than this, as Crow r. is not yet passed, though Pike is not -much short of that point. There is little to note: pass Cloquet or -Clouquet isl.; camp at head of Goodwin's isl. or foot of Dayton -rapids; a small body of water to the right called L. Itaska, not to be -confounded with L. Itasca! At or near the mouth of Crow r. Pike leaves -both Hennepin and Anoka cos.; he then has Wright on his left and -Sherburne on his right. Dayton, Hennepin Co., is at the mouth of Crow -r. The crossing there was called Slater's ferry. - -[II-10] What Pierre Rousseau called a "prairie mole" was the -pocket-gopher of this region, _Thomomys talpoides_. This was first -made known to science by Dr. John Richardson in his paper entitled -"Short Characters of a few Quadrupeds Procured on Capt. Franklin's -late Expedition," published in the Zoological Journal, III. No. 12, -Jan.-Apr. 1828, pp. 516-520. He named it _Cricetus talpoides_, taking -this specific name from its mole-like appearance, and afterwards -called it _Geomys talpoides_, in the Fauna Boreali-Americana, I. 1829, -p. 204. Among the peculiarities of the animal, and indeed of the whole -family to which it belongs, are the strictly subterranean habits, and -the possession of large cheek-pouches external to the mouth and lined -with fur inside: see Coues and Allen, Monographs N. A. Rodentia, 1877, -p. 623. The common mole of the United States, from which Pike saw that -this gopher was very different, is _Scalops aquaticus_, of the -mammalian order _Insectivora_ (not _Rodentia_). - -[II-11] To a position about halfway between Elk r., Sherburne Co., and -Monticello, Wright Co.--say Baker's ferry, at head of Dimick's or -Demick's isl., and compare note at date of Apr. 9th. On making Dayton -rapids Pike passed the mouth of Crow r., which falls in on the left -above the town and below Dayton isl. This river rises in Green l., -Kamdiyohi Co., and by various affluents elsewhere, flows about E. -through Meeker and Wright, and then turns N. E., separating the latter -from Hennepin Co. (This must not be confounded with Crow Wing r., much -higher up the Mississippi.) It was discovered by Carver Nov. 20th, -1766, and by him called Goose r. Beltrami chose Rook's r. Nicollet has -Karishon or Crow r. This river needed an ornithologist to keep from -mixing up those birds so! Besides the three bird-names, Beltrami -produced Poanagoan-sibi or Sioux r., as he says it was called by the -"Cypowais." Elk River, 41 m. from St. Paul by rail, pop. 1,500, is the -seat of Sherburne Co. It is situated immediately below the mouth of -Elk r. This is the stream charted by Pike with the legend "Leaf R. or -S^t. Francis of Carver & Henepen": see for this case note 7. Pike -also calls it R. des Feuilles. Allen had St. Francis or Parallel r. -Beltrami said Kapitotigaya-sibi or Double r. Nicollet's terms -Wichaniwa and St. Francis belong to the main (East) fork of Elk r., -now commonly called the St. Francis; he names the other fork Kabitawi -(which is the same word that Beltrami uses in another form). Above Elk -River is Otsego, Wright Co., with Orano's (Jameson and Wilson) isls. -below and Davis isl. above it. - -[II-12] To vicinity of Monticello, Wright Co. In the course of the hard -water stemmed to-day are Spring rapids and Battle rapids, each of -which Pike marks "Ripple" on his map; the former is first above -Dimick's isl.; the latter is above Brown's isl. and Houghton's flats; -and the name no doubt commemorates the Indian fight of which Pike -speaks. The rise represented by the hard water is about 25 feet, -bringing the Expedition up to 898 or 900 feet above sea-level. -Nicollet's Migadiwin cr. falls in on the left, just above Monticello; -this is now known as Otter cr. Boom isl. is just below the ferry at -Monticello. - -[II-13] To some obscure point about one-third of the way from Monticello -to Clear Water. It is past Lane's and Cedar isls., and above Cedar -rapids, which Pike marks "Ripple" on his map (the third such mark -above his Leaf r.), and below Silver cr.; but I cannot stick a pin in -the map, as there is no named place in the immediate vicinity; nearest -probably R. R. station Lund, Wright Co. - -[II-14] Vicinity of Clear Water r., a sizable stream which separates -Wright from Stearns Co.; Kawakomik or Clear Water r. of Nicollet; -Kawakonuk r. of Owen; Kawanibio-sibi of Beltrami; and qu. Little Lake -r. of Carver's map? The whole distance from Monticello to town of -Clear Water at the mouth of this river is only 19 m., and thence to -St. Cloud, 14 m. = 33 m. for which Pike allows 12 + 20 + 3 + 161/2 = 511/2 -m. This is over his average excess, and the case is complicated by the -position assigned for the wintering station of the persons named on -the 10th. Pike lays down Clear Water r., and his map legends, a little -_below_ this, "Wintering Grounds of M^r. Potier, 1797; & M^r. Dickson, -1805-1806." The names do not correspond exactly with the text, and as -the wintering ground of the text was not passed till the 10th, when -Pike was certainly above the Clear Water, this wintering ground is -simply legended too low on the map. Compare Apr. 7th, beyond, when -Pike reaches the post of Mr. Dickson and the other person, there -called Paulier, in one day's voyage from his stockade on Swan r. As -there explained, the post in question was only 4 m. below the head of -Pike's Beaver isls., thus in the vicinity of St. Augusta, while Pike's -station of the 8th was at or near Clear Water. To reach this town and -river Pike passes Bear isl., Smiler's rapids, and on his left two -small streams. The lower one of these is Silver cr., coming from a -small lake between Silver Creek Siding and a place called Hasty. The -upper one of these is Bend cr. of Nicollet (discharge of Fish l.), so -named from falling into what was a remarkable bend of the Mississippi, -now a cut-off with a large (Boynton's) island. This place is 3 m. -below Clear Water, in Sect. 6, T. 122, R. 26, 5th M. - -[II-15] St. Cloud, seat of Stearns Co.; population 8,000; East St. Cloud -opp.; bridges; railroads converging by five tracks; rapids of 30,000 -horse-power, dammed and utilized. This is a notable place, likely to -become more so. The whole descent from the upper part of the town of -Sauk Rapids to the lower part of St. Cloud, a distance of some 5 m., -is 24 feet; of which Sauk rapids proper fall 17 or 18 feet in the -course of a mile. Pike camps at the foot of these. "Grand Rapids" of -the above text are mapped by Pike as "Big Rapids," the term also used -by Lewis and Clark; they are Nicollet's Second rapids. When I last saw -the place it was not easy to discern the natural course of the river, -it was so jammed with logging-booms. The "more than 20 islands" which -Pike passed to-day are in part included in the cluster called the -Archipelago by Beltrami, now known as the Thousand isls., smallest and -most numerous in the expansion of the river just below St. Cloud and -above Mosquito rapids; the latter, not bad, are between a large island -on the right and a creek that makes in on the left (S. 36, T. 124, R. -28, 5th M.). A short distance below these islands, probably not far -from Mosquito rapids, and thus somewhere about opposite St. Augusta, -was the above-named wintering place. - -[II-16] The whole distance by river from St. Cloud to Pike rapids, where -he stops to build his winter-quarters, is only 33 m. He makes this -8 + 121/2 + 29 + 17 + 5 = 711/2! As there is no possible mistake about the -place we have brought him to, or about that where we shall drop him, -an error of over 100 per cent. is evident in the mileage of the -11th-15th. The text gives but one named point (his Clear r.) to -consider for the required adjustment; but there are seven definite -named rivers in this course and several rapids; so that we can check -him at every few miles, and only need to cut down his mileage a little -more than one-half. Camp of the 11th ("8" = 4 m.) is a little above the -mouth of Sauk r. On heading Sauk rapids, Pike passes the town of Sauk -Rapids, seat of Benton Co., 75 m. by rail from St. Paul. It is a -smaller place than St. Cloud, pop. 1,200, but enjoys the same 30,000 -horse-power of the 18 feet to the mile fall of the Miss. r. Sauk r. -falls in from the W., opposite the upper part of the town; Pike -elsewhere calls it R. aux Saukes, and maps it as Sack r.; so does -Long, though he calls the Indians Sakawes and Sakawis: Nicollet's map -has Osakis r.; other variants of the name are Sac, Sacque, Saque, -Sawk, Saukee, Sawkee, Osaukee, Osauki, etc. The most elaborate way of -spelling Sauk that I have found is Sassassaouacotton. The form Ozaukee -is adopted by Verwyst, Wis. Hist. Soc., XII. 1892, p. 396, where it is -said that this and Sauk are corrupted from _ozagig_, meaning those who -live at a river's mouth. - -[II-17] About 6 m., to a position near the mouth of Little Rock r., -above Watab rapids and the town of that name in Benton Co. Pike first -passes on his right, about a mile from camp, a small stream whose name -has not reached me (it empties in the S. W. 1/4 of Sect. 15, T. 36, R. -31, 4th M.). In another mile he passes Little Sauk r., a stream like -its namesake, but small. This is called Watab r. by Nicollet, Owen, -and Brower, Wadub r. by Schoolcraft, Wattah r. by Allen. This little -river was formerly important as the most tangible part of the shadowy -Sioux-Chippewa boundary of 1825. Starting from the Chippewa r., the -line cut across most rivers, at odd places the savages no doubt -understood, but geographers never did. It crossed the St. Croix at -"Standing Cedars" below the falls, struck near the head of Coon cr., -crossed Rum r. at or near its principal forks, hit a "Point of Woods" -somewhere, crossed Leaf (Elk) r. low down, and reached the Mississippi -opp. the mouth of the Little Sauk, _which it followed up_, and then -went N. W., passed past Swan and Little Elk rivers to the watershed of -the Red River of the North, which it followed approx. N. to the Otter -Tail and Leech l. traverse. (See Allen's map.) The "narrow rocky -place" passed is Watab rapids, and the town of Watab is just above -these, on the creek to the right, 5 m. above Sauk Rapids. Sauk and -Watab are respectively the "2nd" and "3rd" rapids of Nicollet's map. -The word _watab_ means _spruce_; or, rather, as follows: "The small -roots of the spruce tree afford the _wattap_, with which the bark [of -birchen canoes] is sewed; ... Bark, some spare _wattap_, and gum, are -always carried in each canoe," Alex. Henry, Travels, 1761-66, N. Y., -8vo, 1809, p. 14. In this matter we also have the support of the -highest possible authority; for the Century Dictionary, representing -the acme of English scholarship, defines _watap_ or _watapeh_ as "the -long slender roots of the white spruce, _Picea alba_, which are used -by canoe-makers in northwestern North America for binding together the -strips of birch-bark." _Cf._ Baraga's Otchipwe Dict., 1880, Pt. 2, p. -404, _s. v._ _watab_. Pike charts Watab rapids; see his map, place -marked "Ripple," first above his "Little Sack R." This is where his -boat sprung a leak, and he did not get much further. - -[II-18] Say about 14 m., to a position between Platte r. and Spunk r. -Soon after decamping, Pike passed a river he does not mention above, -but which he elsewhere names Lake r., and maps conspicuously in -connection with a certain small sheet of water he names Elk l. These -are now known as Little Rock r. and Little Rock l. The stream is laid -down by Nicollet with the additional name of Pikwabic r. It falls into -a remarkable horseshoe bend of the river, which has not cut off an -island since the charts I use were drawn. Opposite this bend there is -a place called Brockway, in Stearns Co. Of Clear r. as above, and also -so charted by Pike, Lewis and Clark, and Allen, Pike elsewhere says -that it "is a beautiful little stream, of about 80 yards in width, and -heads in some swamps and small lakes on which the Sauteaux of Lower -Red Cedar Lake and Sandy Lake frequently come to hunt." It is -Pekushino r. of Nicollet, Bekozino-sibi and Pines Tail r. of Beltrami, -now commonly called Platte r., and occasionally Flat r., as on an 1850 -map of Minnesota before me; it heads in the region about Mille Lacs. -At the place where the railroad crosses Platte or Clear r. is -Royalton, in Bellevue township, Morrison Co. One-third of a mile below -its mouth is the line between Stearns and Morrison cos., on first -section-line above town-line 126-7. One of the two rivers here noted -is Cold r. of Carver, 1767; but I am uncertain which one. McNeal's -ferry over the Mississippi is about a mile below the mouth of the -Platte. - -[II-19] Making the requisite adjustment of this, we set Pike down in the -N. E. 1/4 of Sect. 29, T. 128, R. 29, 5th M.; this will give us 3 m. to -fill the bill of the "five" to-morrow. To-day's itinerary furnishes -some nice points which we must determine with precision--not for their -intrinsic importance, but for their significance in connection with -Pike's winter-quarters. The matter must be attended to here, though -the text has not a word about it. But Pike elsewhere speaks of three -creeks along here, above his Clear r.=Platte, and below his Pine -cr.=Swan r., near which he builds his stockade. Pike's map has four, -on the left, beginning above Clear r.: (1) Wolf cr.; (2) a creek; (3) -Buffalo cr.; (4) Rocky cr.--all names of his own, none used now. -Proceeding up from Platte=Clear r., we have on the left in succession: -(1) Spunk r., whose mouth is in the S. E. 1/4 of Sect. 22, T. 127, R. -29, 5th M. This is the Wolf cr. of Pike's, item of Lewis and Clark's -map, 1814; mapped, no name, Allen; Zakatagana-sibi of Beltrami; -Sagatagon or Spunk r. of Nicollet; Spunk brook of various maps. The -native name which we have translated means some sort of touchwood or -punk, which may be more plentiful hereabouts than elsewhere, or of -better quality. (2) A rivulet for which I can find no name, not even -on the local maps, and which is too insignificant to appear at all on -most maps; Pike's traces it without name. I will call it Maple brook, -because it falls in behind Maple isl., in Sect. 17 of the T., R., and -M. last said. Maple isl. is sizable, and locally well known; either -this or the little round one close by is probably Beltrami's "Island -of the Sun." (3) Two Rivers, or Two r., or Twin r., as the next stream -is called, which empties about the center of Sect. 8 of the same T., -R., and M., hardly a mile above Maple brook. This is the one Pike maps -by the name of Buffalo cr.; it is also Buffaloe cr. of Lewis and -Clark's map; and the Kanizotygoga of Beltrami. This is a sizable -stream, giving name to Two Rivers Township, and does not fall in -behind any island. (4) Little Two Rivers, or Two Rivers brook, which -falls in about half a mile higher up, in the same Section, behind an -island. (5) A nameless and utterly insignificant brook, which falls in -at McDougal's eddy, behind an island, in the S. E. 1/4 of Sect. 5 of the -same T., R., and M. I find it correctly laid down on a Morrison Co. -map, on a scale of 2 inches to the mile; but it does not appear on the -inch-to-mile charts I mostly follow. (6) Hay cr., which most maps run -into Little Two Rivers, but which is quite distinct, with the brook -(5) intervening. Hay cr. comes southward along the E. border of Swan -River township, turns S. E. across Sect. 31 of T. 128, R. 29, thence -enters Sect. 5 of T. 127, R. 29, and falls into the Mississippi behind -the three-cornered isl. which there lies opp. some rapids next above -McDougal's eddy. The only question seems to be, whether Pike's Rocky -cr. is Little Two Rivers or Hay cr.; but after pretty close scrutiny -of the country thereabouts, I incline to decide in favor of Little Two -Rivers, and could give various reasons for this identification. Pike -maps four rapids, in quick succession, above his Rocky cr. Two of -these I suppose to be those now known as Blanchard's and McDougal's, -both passed on the 14th; a third is surmounted on the 15th, but the -fourth finishes Pike's boat-voyage: see next note. - -[II-20] Three miles, to camp at the foot of Knife or Pike rapids, W. -side of the Mississippi, about the S. border of Sect. 7, T. 128, R. -29, 5th M. These are the 4th or Knife rapids of Nicollet, apparently -so called from the narrowness of the two channels into which the river -is divided for most of their extent by an island, which is what Pike's -text above means by the "two narrow shoots." The designation of Pike -rapids is not recent; it occurs on the Allen map pub. 1834, and no -doubt this antedates the time that the next creek above Swan r. was -named Pike cr., and the township next above Swan River township was -named Pike Creek township. The ascent is 10 or 11 feet to the mouth of -Swan r.; and this is 4 m. below the city of Little Falls. Little Falls -is given as 115 m. by the river from Minneapolis, and as 105 m. by -rail from St. Paul (N. P. R. R.). We know where Pike sleeps to-night -within a few rods, and shall be able to locate his stockade with a -"probable error" of no yards, feet, or inches. - -[II-21] "Lieu^t. Pikes, Block House or Post, for the Winter 1805-1806" -is legended on the pub. map, and marked by a zigzag line snug up under -his Pine cr. (now Swan r.). The orig. MS. map, now on file in the -Engineer Office of the War Dept., is large enough to show the exact -spot, on which is delineated a stockade 36 feet square, with a -blockhouse on the N. W. and another on the S. E. corner of the -structure. Notwithstanding such precise indicia, the site has been -vaguely stated by various authors, and even shifted down to Two Rivers -by so careful and usually correct a writer as my friend the Hon. J. V. -Brower, who is clearly in error in stating that "the south branch of -Two Rivers was named Pine creek, and the other Second creek," Minn. -Hist. Coll., VII., Mississippi R. and its Source, 8vo., Minneapolis, -1893, p. 126. This is simply an _obiter dictum_, by inadvertence. I -had satisfied myself of the true site within a few rods, when I first -learned from Prof. N. H. Winchell, State Geologist of Minnesota, that -traces of the building had been discovered by Judge Nathan Richardson, -Mayor of Little Falls, Minn. On writing to this gentleman, I received -a prompt reply, as follows: - - LITTLE FALLS, MINN., Feb. 24th, 1894. - - _Elliott Coues, Esq., Washington, D. C._ - - MY DEAR SIR: Yours of the 21st inst. is received making - inquiry about my discovering the location of a fort built - by Zebulon M. Pike in the fall of 1805. The location is on - the West bank of the Mississippi River on Government - Subdivision described as Lot No. 1, Sec. No. 7, in Township - No. 128 North, of Range No. 29 West, of the 5th Principal - Meridian, near the S. E. corner of said Lot No. 1, and near - 80 rods south from the mouth of Swan river and four miles - south of this city. I settled at this place in 1855. I - wrote a history of this county in 1876. Then in 1880 I - revised it. Before writing the revision in 1880 I looked - over the books in our State Historical Society, where I - found an account of Pike's Expedition up into this region - of country that year. His description of the location was - so plain and explicit that I had no trouble in finding it. - At that time there were no logs or timber left. The place - was plainly marked by a pile of stone, about the size of an - ordinary haycock, of which the chimney or fire-place was - built. The fort was built of logs. The bottom layer was - imbedded about one-half their size into the ground when - built. The groove in the earth showed very plain when I - first visited the place. As near as I could judge the - building was 40 feet square. Built just on the brink of a - slight elevation, as described by Mr. Pike in his - narrative. Afterward in speaking about the location of - Pike's Fort to an old settler, Samuel Lee, now residing at - Long Prairie in this State, he told me that he had been at - the place many years before, and when he was first at the - place the bottom tier of logs were still there. I visited - the spot two years ago for the purpose of getting one of - the stones that were used to build the fire-place, and took - one that will weigh about 75 pounds, which I am keeping as - a relic. The pile of stone is getting scattered about; the - ground has never been cleared and broken up, but is used as - a pasture. Unless something durable is put up soon to mark - the location all trace of it will be obliterated. This - country commenced to settle with farmers in 1850, and has - become quite well settled up. I will say before closing - that the rapids at the foot of which he built the fort bear - the name of Pike rapids, so named in honor of him. I will - send you a copy of our extra paper [Daily Transcript, of - Little Falls], issued the 1st of January. If I have omitted - anything that you may wish to know write me again. - - Yours very respectfully, - [Signed] N. RICHARDSON. - -Judge Richardson is entitled to the credit of recovering and making -known the spot in modern times. The Hist. Up. Miss. Vall., pub. -Minneap. 1881, treating Morrison Co. in Chap. cxxxviii, has on p. 586 -a short notice of the location, presumably upon Judge Richardson's -data, as the publishers' preface makes general acknowledgments of -indebtedness to him. In Oct., 1886, the place was visited by Mr. T. H. -Lewis, at the instance of Mr. A. J. Hill of St. Paul, and through the -friendly attentions of the latter I am put in possession of extracts -and tracings from Mr. Lewis' notebook, made on the spot at the date -said, when he found the extant remains. Mr. Lewis identified the site -upon his own observations, not being at the time informed of the -earlier discovery. So interesting a spot should be permanently marked -before all traces of it are obliterated, and I hope Judge Richardson -will interest himself to see that this is done. It need not be an -expensive or elaborate monument; probably the stones of the old -chimney and fire-place, now scattered about, would answer the purpose -if they were solidly piled up. - -POSTSCRIPT.--_Little Falls, Minn._, _Sept._ 8th, 1894.--I have this -day visited the spot in person, accompanied by Judge Richardson and -Mrs. Coues. We have piled up the rocks in a conspicuous heap. I do not -recognize any trace of the original woodwork, or of the ground-plan of -the structure, except the place of the chimney; but the site is -unquestionable. To reach it, you go down the main road from Little -Falls, about 4 m. along the W. side of the Miss. r., crossing Pike cr. -and next Swan r.; a few rods beyond the latter, turn to the left into -Simon Kurtzman's cornfield, through bars, and keep on due E. to the -river. You will see the cairn we have made in the following position: -Sect. 7, T. 128, R. 29, 5th M., in S. E. corner of Lot No. 1, 80 rods -E. of Simon Kurtzman's house, about 80 rods S. S. E. of the mouth of -Swan r., near the E. border of the cornfield, 30 paces back from the -brink of the Mississippi, 50 yards S. by E. of a lone pine tree 50 -feet high, on a flat piece of high ground in a copse of scattered -scrub oaks, overgrown with brush and weeds. Letter on the subject over -my signature in Little Falls Daily Transcript, Sept. 10, 1894, urging -the erection of a monument. - -[II-22] Or windshake--not that the canoe foundered in the wind, but that -there was a flaw in the wood of which it was built, such unsoundness -of timber being called a windshock or windshake. - -[II-23] For Dickson's trading-house of 1805-6 see note beyond, date of -Apr. 7th. Dickson's name frequently recurs in Pike, but I think never -once in full. Robert Dickson was an Englishman who began to trade with -the Sioux as early as 1790, and acquired great renown in the early -history of the country. The following occurs in Minn. Hist. Coll., I. -2d ed. 1872, p. 390: "Five years after Pike's visit he espoused the -British cause, and took a prominent part in encouraging the western -tribes in hostility against the Americans. Yet he is said to have been -very humane to American prisoners, rescuing many from the Indians, and -restraining the latter from barbarities and cold-blooded massacres. -After the war Dickson, some accounts say, did not resume trade with -the Sioux; but he did at least live at Lake Travers as late as 1817, -and was charged with alienating the Sioux from the United States, in -complicity with Lord Selkirk, who was there establishing his colony on -Red river. He was soon after arrested near what is now St. Paul, and -taken to St. Louis. He was probably soon released, however, and found -his way back to Queenstown in Canada, where he died. Dickson had a -Sioux wife and four half-breed children. One of his grandchildren was -wife of Joseph Laframboise, a well-known trader at Lac Qui Parle." To -this may be added that one of Col. Robert Dickson's half-breed sons -was William Dickson, whose name appears here and there in Minnesota -annals. - -[II-24] There is no such French word as "killeur," which Pike elsewhere -renders "killieu," and which appears in the text of 1807 as "killien" -and "killein." On consulting the F. text, I. p. 95, I find that the -editor says, "Plutot _tueur rouge_, car le mot killeur n'est pas -francois; c'est sans doute un barbarisme echappe a M. Pike." The son -of this chief Pike calls "Fils de Killeur Rouge": see Mar. 5th and -8th, 1806, beyond. There is a Canadian French word _pilleur_, -pillager, and the Leech Lake Chippewas were known as Pilleurs or -Pillagers; but this Killeur was a Sioux chief of the Gens des Feuilles -or Leaf Indians, now called Wahpetonwans: see L. and C., ed. 1893, p. -100. Pike translates Killeur by "Eagle"; and this clew to the meaning -of the word is carried on by Beltrami, II. p. 207, who has a chief -called "Ki-han or Red Quilliou"; _ibid._, p. 224, he speaks of "a bird -which the Canadians call _killiou_, and the Indians Wamendi-hi"; -_ibid._, p. 307, he says "a plume of _killow_," making an English word -of it. Forsyth has "the killiew (thus named from a species of eagle)," -in Minn. Hist. Col., III. 1874, p. 154. So _killeur_, etc., is simply -a French way of spelling a certain Indian name of the eagle, whose -feathers are used for ornament. I once noted this word in the form -_khoya_. Riggs' Dak. Dict., 1852, has "_Hu-ya_, _n._, the common -eagle" (the dotted _h_ a deep surd guttural). - -[II-25] Yanktons and Sissetons: see L. and C., ed. 1893, pp. 94, 100. - -[II-26] More probably Chien Blanc, or White Dog--unless we could go so -far as to suppose he was called by the less polite and less -appropriate name of Chienne Blanche. - -[II-27] About opp. the mouth of Pine cr. or Swan r., 1/2 m. above head of -Roberts' isl., and on or near the present site of Gregory, Morrison -Co. This place is marked as Aitkin's ferry, trading-post, and hotel, -on a Minnesota map, pub. Phila., Cowperthwait, 1850; it is about the -middle of the southwesternmost section of Little Falls township -(Township 40, Range 32, 4th mer.), say 3 m. below the middle of the -city of Little Falls. The head of Pike rapids is 1,071 or 1,072 feet -above sea-level. Swan r. bends up a little to fall into the Miss. r., -so that its mouth is slightly over the S. border of Sect. 6, Township -128, Range 29, 5th mer. There is a flour mill on its S. side, at the -bend, half a mile or less from its mouth. Ledoux P. O. is on this -stream, a few miles up, in Swan River township, which lies between -North Prairie township and Pike Creek township; Swan r. runs over the -N. border of it a mile W. of the Mississippi. By whom Pike's Pine cr. -was first called Swan r. I do not know, unless it was Nicollet; it is -Wabizio-sibi of Beltrami, Wabezi or Swan r. of Nicollet, 1836, Swan r. -of Owen and later writers; but Lieut. Allen has it Elk r. on his map, -by error. - -[II-28] Less than this, to camp on left or E. bank of the Mississippi, -in the present city of Little Falls, Morrison Co., probably about the -place where is the lower bridge, a few blocks from the Buckman hotel. -Painted Rock rapids is now Little falls. A high, small island at the -falls divides the river in two channels; it is Rock isl. of Nicollet, -now called Mill isl.; some mills are there, and there is the site of -the present dam, immediately below the lower bridge. Little Falls is a -flourishing place, as towns with a water-power of 35,000 horses may -easily be; pop. now or lately 3,000; dam built 1887-8, said to have -cost $250,000; two bridges span the river, the upper one for the N. P. -R. R., near the large sawmill which stands on the W. bank; chief -industry, milling flour and logs; city incorporated 1889; N. -Richardson, mayor for five years: see Little Falls Daily Transcript, -Industrial ed., Jan. 1st, 1894, large folio, pp. 28, maps and views, -price 5c. The Little falls--cataract, not town--are so called by Pike -elsewhere in this work; he also says that "the place is called by the -French Le Shute de la Roche Peinture," by which we may understand La -Chute de la Roche Peinte; his map legends "Painted Rock or Little -Falls." Beltrami names the falls Great Rock and Kekebicauge. As to the -"5 miles" of to-day's journey, we may note that the distance is less -now than it used to be by the channel, because there was a bend of the -river to the E. which is now straightened out. This bend appears on -maps of 20 years ago; it is now city ground, and the march of -improvement has effected various other changes in the course of the -river. When about a mile from this morning's camp, Pike passed a place -where the river was fordable, and may be so still; here was the site -of Swan River P. O., on the E. bank, in Little Falls township. When a -mile further on, he passed the mouth of a creek from the W. which he -calls 2nd cr. (on the map "2^d Cr."), and which others have rendered -Second cr., though Nicollet and Owen both have it Little Fall cr.; it -is now known as Pike cr., and gives name to Pike Creek township. It -falls into the Mississippi at the middle of the E. border of Sect. 25, -Township 129, Range 30, 5th mer., through the 6th one of the 16 -outlots of O. O. Searles, slightly beyond present city limits. - -[II-29] To a position at the head of Little Elk rapids, a short distance -above the mouth of Little Elk r. This is a sizable stream which comes -from the W. through Parker and Randall townships to the S. W. corner -of Green Prairie township, touches the N. E. corner of Pike creek -township, and then curves a couple of miles to the Mississippi through -Sects. 6 and 5, T. 129, R. 29, 5th M. Pike elsewhere notes it with -particularity by the name of Elk r. Beltrami says Moska or Mosko and -Doe or Bitch r. This last name is a mistaken rendering of R. la Biche -or Elk r. of the French--he makes the same singular blunder in the -case of Lake Itasca, which he calls Doe or Bitch l., after the French -Lac la Biche. The river is the Omoshkos or Elk r. of Nicollet and -Owen. It is marked Little Fork cr. on the Minn. map of 1850; and -Allen's map makes it Swan r., by an erroneous transposition of names; -see note 27 p. 122. - -[II-30] From Little Falls to Crow Wing is only 26 m. by the river. Pike -does not reach Crow Wing till the 21st, and his party does not get up -till the 23d or 24th. Exactly what distance he makes it cannot be -said, as mileage is missing some days. He appears to have thought it -some 50 or 60 m. Thus the itinerary does not afford data for fixing -camps with precision, and hence we can only check him approximately -from day to day. The sledge-party does not average 3 m. a day, but -Pike himself seems to skirmish about for many more miles--perhaps the -excessive mileages represent his own activities, not the actual -advance of the Expedition. The average course is due N. On the 12th -Conradi shoal and Belle Prairie were passed, to camp in the vicinity -of Fletcher cr. Belle Prairie is a comparatively old settlement on the -E. bank, founded by Frederick Ayer, a missionary, in 1848; pop. 800. -This is only 41/2 m. by rail from Little Falls. The town is directly -opposite the shoals. These are the Fifth rapid of Nicollet. A small -creek comes in opposite them from the W., in Green Prairie township. -Fletcher cr. is mapped by Nicollet without name; it is McKinney's r. -on the 1850 map of Minn. It falls in from the E. through Sect. 1, T. -41, R. 32, 4th M. - -[II-31] In the vicinity of Topeka, a town and station on the N. P. R. -R., on the E. bank of the river. - -[II-32] Camp of the 14th, 15th, and 16th seems to have been on the W. -bank of the river, at the head of Olmsted's bar, and was very likely -opp. the point of land in Sect. 15, T. 42, R. 32, 4th M., where one -Baker located his trading-house in 1831. It is formally named Pine -camp when it is passed on the way down, Mar. 4th, 1806: see that date. -Olmsted's bar is the Sixth rapid of Nicollet, at a place where the -river expands and contains a cluster of small islands, called The -Sirens by Beltrami, II. p. 466. - -[II-33] This cache was in the vicinity of present Fort Ripley. The town -now so called is on the E. side; railroad; pop. 500. Old Fort Ripley -itself is on the W. side, a mile off; some of the buildings still -stand. This post, or another in the same place, was once called Fort -Gaines; Prairie Percee of the F. intersected the river a little below. -The fort is in the N. E. 1/4 of Sect. 7, T. 131, R. 29, 5th M., about a -half mile below the mouth of Nokasippi r., which falls in from the E. -through Sect. 27, T. 43, R. 32, 4th M. This is a considerable stream: -Nokasippi and Noka Sipi of Schoolcraft; Nokay r. of Nicollet and of -Owen; Nokasele on one of my maps, Nankesele and Nankele on others; -Woco-sibi of Beltrami's text, II. p. 466, Wokeosiby and Prophet r. on -his map. This hint that the name is a personal one is correct. Noka -was a Chippewa, the grandfather of White Fisher or Waubojeeg. "It is -from this old warrior and stalwart hunter, who fearlessly passed his -summers on the string of lakes which form the head of the No-ka river, -which empties into the Mississippi nearly opposite present site of -Fort Ripley, that the name of this stream is derived," says W. W. -Warren, Minn. Hist. Coll., V. 1885, p. 266. It is mapped by Pike and -mentioned by him beyond at date of Mar. 3d, 1806; but he has no name -for it. Allen's map gives it as Long r. But the earliest name of the -stream I can discover is on Lewis and Clark's map, pub. 1814, where it -is called Scrub Oak r., no doubt from the prairie above it, to which -Pike gave that name. On reaching ownline 42-3, Pike leaves Morrison -for Crow Wing Co., on the right, but still has the former on his left, -up to Crow Wing r. - -[II-34] To some point probably more than halfway between the Nokasippi -and Crow Wing rivers, perhaps not far from the station or siding -Albion (St. Paul Div. of N. P. R. R.). It is beyond Lenox, and a -little above that creek for which I find no name, but which falls in -from the W. through Sect. 24, T. 132, R. 30, 5th M. - -[II-35] To a position immediately below the mouth of the Crow Wing r. - -[II-36] Riviere a l'Aile de Corbeau of the F., usually shortened into R. -de Corbeau, though Eng. Crow Wing r. reflects the full name. The large -island at its mouth was called Isle or Ile de Corbeau, and I suspect -that the similarity of _aile_ and _isle_ or _ile_ may be concerned in -this nomenclature. The river sometimes appears as Crow r., rendering -the shorter F. form; in such instance it must not be confounded with -Crow r. much lower down the Mississippi: see note 11, p. 97. Crow -Wing also appears as Crow-wing, and I have found both Cow-wing and -Crowing r. in Schoolcraft. Raven r. is another name; Pike sometimes -uses this. Beltrami has Raven's Plume r. and Crow Feather r. Nicollet -calls it Kagiwan r. This is the largest branch of the Mississippi -above Little Falls. The unnumbered affluents which unite to compose -the main stream head in lakes and marshes of Hubbard, Becker, Otter -Tail, Wadena, and Todd cos. Having received most of its tributaries, -and coursed through Wadena, the river for a short distance separates -Todd from Cass Co., and then runs between Cass and Morrison to empty -opp. the town of Crow Wing. Crow Wing r. was important as a means of -communication between the Mississippi and Red River of the North. It -was navigated up to the mouth of R. des Feuilles, now Leaf r., in the -S. part of Wadena Co.; thence the route was up Leaf r., and by portage -into Otter Tail l., one of the principal sources of Red r. waters. -Crow Wing r. was also a route to Leech l. Schoolcraft made the trip -this way from Leech l. to the Miss. r. in July, 1832; his map, pub. -1834, letters some of the main branches Kioshk r., Longprairie or -Warwater r., and Leaf r. The chain of lakes on this route are in his -nomenclature as follows, from below upward: 1. Kaichibo Sagitowa; 2. -Johnston's; 3. Allen's; 4. Longrice (Long Rice); 5. Summit; 6. Vieux -Desert; 7. Ossowa; 8. Ple; 9. Birth; 10. Little Vermillion; 11. -Kaginogumag, source of the river. Four small ones thence to Leech l. -are called Lake of the Island, Lake of the Mountain, Little Long l., -and Warpool l. The branch which Schoolcraft calls Kiosh is Nicollet's -Gayashk r., now called Gull r.; a lake on it has the same name, and -one higher up is Lake Sibley of Nicollet. Nicollet says that he -contracted Gayashk from Chip. Kagayashkensikang, "the place where -there are little gulls [terns]," Rep. 1843, p. 54. Gull r. comes from -the N., approx. parallel with the Mississippi, and falls into Crow -Wing r. only some 3 or 4 m. above its mouth; about the same distance -up it is crossed by the N. P. R. R., at or near Gull River station -(between Baxter and Sylvan Lake stations). - -[II-37] This seems to bring the whole party up to Crow Wing isl., opp. -old town of Crow Wing. Pike says himself that he could scarcely make -his notes intelligible, but we certainly know where he is to-day, and -have probably checked him from Little Falls with all the accuracy the -case admits. The town was mainly in Sect. 24, T. 44, R. 32, 4th M., -but settlements in 1857 were in Sect. 23; pop. in 1866, 600; Brainerd -killed the place about 1870: see Harper's Mag., XIX. 1859, p. 47. -Thos. Cowperthwait's map of Minn., Phila., 1850, letters "Morrison's" -on the town site. - -[II-38] "Hard W." is a misprint for N., the general course of the river -as you ascend, for many miles, till the Crow Wing is reached; after -this the Mississippi bears N. E.; and as the Crow Wing comes in from -the W., and is very large, their confluence is, as it were, the forks -of the Mississippi. - -[II-39] The whole way by river from Crow Wing to Pine r. (the next place -where we can certainly check Pike), is only 34 m. He makes it 101/2 + 3 -+ 3 + 10 + 12 + 21 + 12 = 711/2 m., with something over for morning of -Dec. 31st. Hence we have to cut him down about half. His "101/2" m. -takes him about 6 m. toward Brainerd, with nothing to note on the way, -excepting a small creek on the left hand, in Sect. 26, T. 133, R. 29, -5th M. From Crow Wing to Brainerd is 111/4 m. by the river; Crow Wing -Co. continues on the right; on the left is Cass Co., according to such -a presumably authoritative map as that of the G. L. O., 1893; but in -fact Crow Wing Co. also extends on the left-hand side of the -Mississippi from a point about 11/2 m. above the mouth of Crow Wing r. -upward for many miles, its W. border being along the middle line of R. -29. - -[II-40] To Brainerd, Crow Wing Co., called City of the Pines, now easily -first in this part of the State; pop. 10,000; junction of St. Paul -div. with main N. P. R. R., 136 m. from St. Paul by rail, 114 from -Duluth; recent utilization of the fall of the river furnishing perhaps -20,000 horse-power; water-works, electric lights, etc. It is a center -of the lumber interests, and a focus of roads from every direction; -the river is bridged, and the surplus population forms West Brainerd. -Brainerd was laid out by the railroad in 1870, and has no earlier -history. - -[II-41] Beyond Rice r. or cr., Nagajika cr. of Nicollet, which falls in -on the right, in Sect. 18, T. 45, R. 30, 4th M., about 3 m. above -Brainerd, and is to be distinguished from another of the same name -higher up on the same side; also, past French rapids, the Seventh of -Nicollet, which were Pike's carrying-places to-day. Above these he -found the river frozen solid. - -[II-42] Vicinity of Sand cr., from the right. This is mapped by -Nicollet, but without name. It falls in through Sect. 27, T. 46, R. -30, 4th M.; directly opposite its mouth is a smaller creek, from the -left. - -[II-43] To a position at or near the stream called White Bear-skin r. by -the geologist D. Norwood, 1847, being the discharge of Duck l. and -Swamp l., two of the largest of the numerous small lakes that lie -close along this course of the river. They are close together; each is -about 2 m. long and at one point only a mile or so to the left of the -river. Lake Taliaferro of Nicollet is on this connection, but further -off. Pike is fairly within the great lacustrine region of Minnesota, -where there are more lakes than have ever been counted. Half Moon l. -is a little one, about half a mile below the discharge of Duck and -Swamp lakes. The most notable point Pike passes to-day is the mouth of -Rabbit r., on the right. This is a considerable stream discharging -from a set of lakes (one at least of which has the same name), at the -junction of Sects. 13 and 24, T. 46, R. 30, 4th M., at or near the -foot of Island rapids. A smaller creek, also from the right, empties -below, in Sect. 24. Higher up are some rapids called Big Eddy. - -[II-44] Nearly to the mouth of Pine r. (not to be confounded with Pike's -Pine _cr._, now Swan r.): see next note. The new species of pine -"called the French sap pine," is the balsam-fir, _Abies balsamea_. -Pike meant to say "called by the French _sapin_." The text of 1807, p. -31, has "Sappine." - -[II-45] Present name of the largest stream in the northern portion of -Crow Wing Co., falling in from the N. in the S. W. 1/4 of Sect. 25, T. -136, R. 27, 5th M., at a sharp bend the Mississippi here makes. Pine -r. has been so called by pretty nearly all writers since Pike's time; -but Beltrami has it Singuoako or Pines r. It is connected directly, or -indirectly, with an immense number of small lakes, not all of which -have ever been counted, and still fewer named. Two of the largest are -called Whitefish and Pelican. This whole system of waters lies to the -N. and W. of the Mississippi, S. of Leech lake, and on Pike's left as -he ascends. It offered a means of communication with Leech lake much -more direct than the course of the Mississippi itself; this was taken -by Pike on his return journey, and the river is consequently to be -particularly noted in that connection: see under dates of Feb. -19th-24th, beyond. - -[II-46] Curly Head does not appear in Pike's tabular exhibit of Chippewa -chiefs, and we are left without his native name, or any fair -identification; but Hon. W. W. Warren supplies the requisite data, -Minn. Hist. Coll., V. 1885, p. 47, p. 348 _seq._, p. 366; see also -_ibid._ p. 469 _seq._ and p. 495. The name of the old civil and -military chief Babesigaundibay is inseparably linked with the history -of his tribe. He belonged to the Businause family, or Crane totem, and -ruled for many years over the Chippewas of the Mississippi r., in the -vicinity of Gayashk or Gull l., eventually becoming the third man in -importance in the councils of his nation, sharing honors with Broken -Tooth of Sandy l. and Flat Mouth of Leech l. His people increased in -numbers, held the Crow Wing region against all enemies, and in 1852 -numbered about 600. Curly Head was respected and beloved; "he was a -father to his people; they looked on him as children do to a parent; -and his lightest wish was immediately performed. His lodge was ever -full of meat, to which the hungry and destitute were ever welcome. The -traders vied with one another who should treat him best, and the -presents which he received at their hands he always distributed to his -people without reserve." This estimable man died on his way back from -the grand conference held at Prairie du Chien by Governors William -Clark and Lewis Cass, Aug. 19th, 1825. His signature to this treaty, -as printed in one of the copies before me, is "Babaseekeendase, -Curling Hair." I elsewhere find Babikesundeba. Curly Head died -childless; on his death-bed he called two of his pipe-bearers and -formally constituted them his successors. These were brothers; one was -Songukumigor, Strong Ground, and the other Pugonakeshig, or Hole in -the Day I. The latter exerted great influence for about a quarter of a -century, killed 36 people, and was killed by being bounced out of a -cart while drunk, near Platte r., Benton Co., Minn., early in 1847. - -[II-47] No mileage from Dec. 31st, 1805, to Jan. 3d, 1806: so we must -check Pike by other data. From Pine r. to town of Aitkin, Aitkin Co., -is 321/2 m. by river; this is very tortuous; air-line distance between -these points, 161/4 m., or just one-half of the river-miles. At 12 of -these direct miles' distance above Pine r. and 41/4 below Aitkin is our -most important datum-point, viz., mouth of Lower Red Cedar r. This is -the discharge of Lower Red Cedar l., a comparatively large body of -water 6 m. to the right (nearly S. from the mouth of L. R. C. r.). On -the shore of L. R. C. l., half a mile E. S. E. of the place where the -river issues from it, was the post of the N. W. Co., whence the party -that met Pike on the 2d came to see what was up, and to which Pike -repairs as Mr. Grant's guest on the 3d. While it is true that these -facts do not fix the three camps with all desirable precision, they -enable us to carry Pike on by "rule of thumb" in an intelligible -manner. I propose, therefore, to set him one-third of the way from -Pine r. to Lower Red Cedar r. on the 31st of Dec.--say opp. Rabbit l.; -two-thirds of this way on the 1st of Jan.--some point between Dean cr. -and Hay cr., both of which fall in on the left (probably a mile above -Dean cr.--see Feb. 24th, beyond); at mouth of Lower Red Cedar r., Jan. -2d; at Aitkin Jan. 3d--to reach which Little Willow r., flowing S. -from Waukenabo and Esquagamau lakes, is passed. These stages cannot in -any event be far out of the way; and to so make them brings up all the -points worth noting between Pine r. and Aitkin in orderly sequence. -The principal ones are the lake and the town. The lake has been well -known since the days of the old French regime; its relations with -Mille Lacs are intimate, and it was thus of consequence in connection -with old canoe-routes; it was for many years also the situation of -important trading-posts. It was le _Bas_ Lac aux Cedres Rouges of the -French, _Lower_ Red Cedar l., in distinction from another one of -similar name, now Cass l. The distinction is to be sedulously borne in -mind, especially as Pike most often ignores it formally, and -repeatedly speaks of "Red Cedar" or "Cedar" l. indifferently, meaning -the present one when he is hereabouts, and meaning Cass l. when he is -thereabouts; the name is also now commonly clipped down to Cedar l. -and Cedar r. or cr., meaning this one, in modern geographies and -guide-books. Lower Red Cedar l. is large, with perhaps 50 m. of -shore-line altogether; it bears from Aitkin in the direction of -Brainerd; some of its relations are with smaller bodies of water known -as Crystal l., Mud l., Spirit l., Hanging Kettle l., Pine l., Farm -Island l., and Sesabagomag l. Cedar Lake station is about 5 m. W. of -Aitkin, N. P. R. R. Aitkin is per schedule by rail 27 m. from -Brainerd, 87 m. from Duluth; population 1,000; for persons named -Aitkin (not Aiken or Aitken), see that word in the Index. The present -town is on the right hand going up, left or S. side of the -Mississippi, at the mouth of Mud or Muddy r. (Ripple cr.), a -considerable stream, connected with a system of small lakes. It falls -into the Mississippi in Sect. 1, T. 47, R. 27, 4th M.; and in this -same section is the mouth of a stream which Owen called Sesabagomag -r., but which I find given as Missagony r. on late maps. Nicollet -charted it, with no name. Below the mouth of Lower Red Cedar r. Pike -goes from Crow Wing into Aitkin Co. He had passed the county line Jan. -3d. - -[II-48] "Point" as a measure of distance is not a well-known term, and I -am not sure of what it means. There is some internal evidence in Pike -that one of his "points" was from -1/8 to 1/4 to 1/2 m., according to the -nature of the ground and the degree of "that tired feeling" which is -liable to overcome the most pushing wayfarer. I imagine "point" to -correspond to the _pause_ or _pose_ of the voyageurs. In their -language a _piece_ was a package of any goods, made up to weigh from -50 to 100 lbs., supposed to weigh about 90 on an average, for -convenience of transportation over portages. Such a pack would be -slung on the shoulders by the _fillet_ or forehead strap; and the -voyageur would start off at a dog-trot and drop it when he got tired. -This stop or rest was the _pose_; the Chip. name was _opuggiddiwanan_, -lit. the place of putting down the pack. Pike had to the last degree -the first qualification of a traveler--"go"; people who lack plenty of -that should stay at home. That he was a prudent or judicious traveler -can hardly be said; he must have been a terrible fellow to push, -merciless on his men, and especially on himself. He took all the -chances _per aspera_, when some of the roughest things might have been -smoothed or avoided had his foresight been as good as his hindsight. -He blew up things with gunpowder once, and it is a wonder he was not -blown up on the 4th, instead of being only burnt out. He missed very -few of the accidents that the spirits of fire, air, earth, and water -could conspire to throw in his way; and his faithless sergeant made -away with all the spirits he had in the keg at Swan r. However, he got -through all right, and got his men all through too--_sic iter ad -astra_. - -[II-49] The direct distance from Aitkin to the site of the N. W. Co. -house, at least 1 m. S. of the outlet of Sandy l., is about 24 m.; the -river is also pretty direct as a whole, between these two places; but -it is extremely tortuous in its many minor bends of a mile or two -apiece, so that the distance the sledges traveled on the ice may have -been twice as far as that by the way Pike and Bradley forged ahead. -These two reached Mr. Grant's house on the night of the 8th; the men -with the sledges, not till evening of the 13th. The two sets of camps -might be arbitrarily set along this lap, by ignoring such wild figures -as "27 miles" for the 5th, and assuming other data. But this would -probably not help us to a better understanding of this section of the -route than the following notes: 1. Less than a mile above the mouth of -Mud r. (Aitkin) a stream falls in on the right; this is Missagony r., -marked Sesabagomag r. on Owen's map. 2. Rice r. (Manomin r. of -Nicollet's map) falls in on the right, 41/2 m. in an air-line above the -mouth of Mud r., in Sect. 4, T. 47, R. 26, 4th M. 3. Willow r. falls -in on the left, 6 m. in an air-line above the mouth of Rice r., in -Sect. 2, T. 48, R. 26, 4th M. This is to be particularly noted in -connection with Pike's journey, as he proceeds approximately by way of -this river from Sandy l. to Grand Rapids in the vicinity of Pokegama -falls. It is the largest tributary of the Mississippi on that side -between Pine r. and the Leech Lake branch of the Mississippi. Pike -charts it by the name of Pike r.--not his own name, as Beltrami -implies, II. p. 446, but that of the pike, a fish, translating F. -Riviere du Brochet; it is also Pike r. of Long's map; it was called -Alder r. by Cass and Meaogeo r. by Beltrami; but it is now always -known as Willow r. Its system of lakes is also in close relation with -those E. and S. E. of Leech l., and the river was thus one of the -recognized routes between this lake and the Mississippi. Its mouth is -about one-third of the direct distance between Aitkin and Sandy lake. -4. There are some rapids above Willow r., two of them called Moose and -Sandy Lake rapids; the latter are only about 21/2 m. direct W. from the -lake, but fully 6 m. by the bends of the river; the town of Portage is -near them. Pike and Bradley left the river at some point below these -rapids, to make straight for the lake. 5. Sandy l., Lac au Sable or de -Sable of the French, is close to the river, on the right hand going -up, and discharges into the Mississippi by a short crooked stream -called Sandy Lake r., 2 m. or less in length. Its greatest diameter in -any direction is probably under 5 m., but the figure is so irregular, -with such extensive projections into the main body of waters, that the -actual shore-line is more than 30 m. It receives the discharges of a -number of smaller lakes in the vicinity, among them one called Aitkin -by Nicollet. Its principal feeders are two in number. One of these -comes in at the southernmost end of the lake, and takes the name of -Sandy, Sandy Lake, or Rice Lake r. The N. P. R. R. crosses this stream -near McGregor, which is 12 m. by the wagon-road southward from the -discharge of the lake. This river has a main branch from Manomin or -Rice l.; and either this branch or the whole river is the -Menomeny-sibi or Wild Oats r. of Beltrami. The other main affluent of -Sandy l. comes in from the E., at a point on the E. shore in the N. E. -1/4 of Sect. 9, T. 49, R. 23, 4th M., and is generally known as Prairie -r. Nicollet called it Little Prairie r.; Long, Savanna r. Its main -branch from the N. E. is now known as Savanna r.; Nicollet called this -West Savannah r. to distinguish it from that branch of the St. Louis -r. which he designated East Savannah r., and accentuate the relations -of the two. For it must be known that these rivers of the -Mississippian basin connect so closely with certain branches of the -St. Louis, in the Lake Superior basin, that they were formerly of the -utmost importance as waterways between the two great systems, and as -such were greatly used by the early voyageurs. The N. W. Co. house -where Pike was entertained stood on the W. shore of Sandy l., next to -the Mississippi. Pike marks the site on his map, and gives it as 11/4 m. -S. of the discharge of the lake into the short thoroughfare by which -this reaches the Mississippi. There are existing remains of old -settlements in various positions further south. A trail from the -Indian village struck the Mississippi r. in the S. E. 1/4 of Sect. 4, T. -49, R. 24. When David Thompson was here in 1798, he made the fort to -be lat. 46 deg. 46' 39" N., long. 93 deg. 20' W. It was a point of commercial -and even political importance long before Pike's day--it was such at -the pivotal date, 1763, in the history of French-English occupancy of -the Upper Mississippi. At the discharge of the lake into the -Mississippi on the N. side, in the center of Sect. 25, T. 50, R. 24, -is a small sharp point; this was the site of a post of the Amer. Fur -Co. of which Schoolcraft speaks in 1832; Palmburg was and Libby is -there now. It would be a pity if the government dam now constructing -on the outlet should convert this beautiful sheet of water into such a -dismal cesspool as Lake Winnibigoshish has become since that was -dammed; but lumberjacks prevail in northern Minnesota by a large -majority, and logging-booms have nothing in common with scenic -effects. - -[II-50] In the summer of 1802, the Morrison party, consisting of William -Morrison, the brothers Michael and Antoine Cheniers, John McBean, one -Bouvin, and one Grignon, came into the country in the service of the -X. Y. Co. (Richardson & Co.), in opposition to the N. W. Co. The -genuine Morrison letter elsewhere cited, in connection with the -discovery of the Mississippian source, says: "I found ... Sayers at -Leech Lake, Cotton at Fond du Lac, _and Bousquai at Sandy Lake_." The -latter is no doubt Pike's "Charles Brusky." The name stands Bousky in -Pike's text of 1807, p. 34. The Rev. Mr. Neill, Minn. Hist. Coll., V. -1885, p. 451, speaks of the visit of David Thompson, May 6th, 1798, to -Sandy Lake, adding, "where the post was in charge of Mr. Bruske" -(Bruske in the index). - -[II-51] See note 49, p. 137, for Willow r. Pike calls it "Leech Lake -river" in this place, not because that was then or ever has been its -name, but because it was on the route he was going to take from Sandy -l. to Leech l. He flatters our intelligence further by giving us a -perfectly blind snow-shoe trail, for the most part 'cross lots, -without a single compass-point, with wild mileage or none, and not -even a geographical hint, from the 20th to the 26th. He takes it for -granted that we know all about the swamps of N. Minnesota in -midwinter. Luckily, we are not without the means of bringing him to -book. He continues on the Willow River route toward Leech l. with his -whole party till the morning of the 26th, when he leaves the party to -follow up that route, and goes himself with Boley and the Indian to -Mr. Grant's house "on the Mississippi." The Mississippi is a pretty -long river, but it happens that we can discover where Mr. Grant's was -in 1805: see Pike's map, place marked "N. W. C^o.", on the right bank -(W. side) of the river, a little below the place marked "Ripple." This -was directly opposite the present town of Grand Rapids, Itasca Co., 3 -m. below Pokegama Falls. The air-line distance from the outlet of -Sandy l. to Grand Rapids is supposed to be 32-1/5 m.; by the way Pike -went perhaps 40-45 m. The course is about N. N. W. This cuts off a -considerable segment from the winding course of the Mississippi, which -makes a large elbow eastward. Pike subtends this bend; having crossed -the Mississippi near Sandy l., and thus continued across what he calls -the "portage" to Willow r., he goes up this, not far from parallel -with the Mississippi, till Willow r. bears more to the left; when he -leaves it to continue his course to Mr. Grant's house, having the -Mississippi on his right, but at several (say 5 to 10) miles' -distance, representing the amount of cut-off he makes. On the 26th, -with Boley and an Indian, he forges ahead of his party, who do not get -up to Grant's house till the evening of the 28th, though he is there -on the night of the 26th with the Indian, and Boley comes up on the -morning of the 27th. That section of the Mississippi which Pike thus -avoids may be passed over briefly, as it offers little of interest. -There are some rapids above Sandy l. Three of these are duly charted -by Nicollet, being his lower, middle, and upper "Small" rapids, -respectively now known as Ox-portage, Crooked, and Pine rapids. The -first of these are in Sect. 2, T. 50, R. 24, 4th M.: the others in the -next township above, of the same range. By far the most important -tributary of the Mississippi in this portion of its course is Swan r., -which falls in from the E. in Sect. 9, T. 52, R. 24, 4th M., 11/4 m. -(direct) south of the boundary line between Aitkin and Itasca cos., -which here runs on the line between T. 52 and T. 53. The Duluth and -Winnipeg R. R. from Duluth meanders the St. Louis r. as far as -Floodwood, continues N. W. to Wawana, along some tributaries of -Floodwood r., to the divide between Laurentian and Mississippian -waters in the vicinity of Swan r. The latter is marked "Wild Swan R." -on the U. S. Engineers' chart--which is well enough, as all the swans -in that country are wild, though this name apparently arose from -misunderstanding the legend "W. Swan R." on Nicollet's map. This -stands for _West_--not Wild--Swan r., and Nicollet meant by it to -contrast this stream with that tributary of the St. Louis which he -called East Swan r. At a distance of 61/2 air-line miles, but fully 14 -m. by the meanders of the Mississippi, above the mouth of Swan r., a -small stream comes in from the W., nearly if not exactly on the common -corner of Sects. 21, 22, 27 and 28 of T. 53, R. 24, 4th M. This is -Split Hand r.--the Cut Hand cr. of Nicollet and of Owen, draining from -a lake of the same incisive name, from Willibob l., and some others, -all of which lie southeastward of the large Lake Pokegama. This is the -stream called by Beltrami Singonki-sibi or Marten r. Above Split Hand -r. are several streams on either hand. The one which I take to be -Nicollet's Blueberry cr. falls in from the E. in the S. W. 1/4 of Sect. -21, T. 54, R. 24, 4th M., 3/4 of a mile due S. of a considerable hill in -the next section above, and 3 m. due E. of Hale l.--that little lake -which is at the tip of the longest eastward finger of Lake Pokegama. -Ascending the Mississippi still, we next come to Trout r. or cr., from -the E., whose mouth falls in the S. W. 1/4 of Sect. 5 of the township -just said. This has held its present name since the days of -Schoolcraft and Allen, though Beltrami called it Namago-sibi. Here we -are already approaching Grand Rapids, where we shall find Pike: for -the many important features of that vicinity see next note. - -[II-52] I do not know that the exact site of Grant's N. W. Co. House has -been recovered of late years; but there is no question of its location -nearly or directly opposite the town of Grand Rapids, somewhere in the -S. 1/2 of Sect. 21, T. 55, R. 25, 4th M. It doubtless stood on the first -rising ground from the river--most probably, as I think, on the knoll -that overlooks that curious expansion of the Mississippi into a pair -of ponds or one small lake of hour-glass shape, across the constricted -part of which the river flows. Grand Rapids is the seat of Itasca Co., -and has become quite a town of late years, at least in comparison with -any others for many miles thereabouts. It stands across the mouth of a -small creek, whose name, if it have one, I could not learn, even when -I was on the spot. It discharges from several small lakes. The rapids -from which the town takes its name are not particularly "grand." Pike -calls them a "ripple." "_Kakabikons_ (or simply _Kabikons_) rapids, as -I have laid them down on the map, have a fall of 9 feet in a distance -of 80 yards," Nicollet, Rep. 1843, p. 63. The volatile Beltrami calls -them "Sassicy-Woenne, or Thundering Rapids," II. p. 455. The Engineer -chart marks the rapids 1247 below and 1252 above--a difference of only -5 feet. At the direct distance of 21/2 m. below (E. S. E. of) the town -is a village called La Prairie, of no consequence in itself, but -occupying a notable place. This is the mouth of a comparatively large -river, charted by Pike as "Meadow R. navigable for Bark Canoes 100 M." -Long also maps it as Meadow r.; by Beltrami it is called -Mushkotensoi-sibi or Prairie r., and this last is its present -designation (duplicating the name of one of the tributaries of Sandy -l.: see note 49, p. 138). It is the translation of the Indian word -which Nicollet in this connection renders Mashkudens, and which occurs -in many forms, as Mascouten, Muscatine, etc. About 2 m. S. W. of Grand -Rapids is Horseshoe l., one of the many small bodies of water which -hover like satellites about Lake Pokegama: see next note. The D. and -W. R. R. keeps on the N. side of the Mississippi, from La Prairie -through Grand Rapids to Cohasset and Deer River, its present terminus. - -[II-53] Jan. 29th and 30th are not entered in the diary, and there is -intrinsic evidence of confusion in Pike's notes. Observe the statement -made under "Feb. 1st" that Pike reached Leech l. at 2.30 p. m., -crossed it to the house and arrived there about 3 p. m.--12 m. in -about half an hour, an obvious impossibility. Observe also that Boley -was his only soldier according to Jan. 26th and 27th; but that Miller -was the man with him on the 28th and later days. What became of Boley -and where did Miller come from? We have not a word about the main -party; in fact we are never told by what route they reached Leech -l.--simply that they got there five days after Pike, at 4 p. m., Feb. -6th: see that date. Fortunately the early text of 1807, pp. 37-40, -clears the whole matter up, as follows: "After the whole party had -arrived at this lodge [Grant's house, evening of _Jan. 28th_], Mr. -Pike determined to proceed on to the head of the river [Leech l.], -accompanied by one of his young men, named Miller. He left the camp on -the morning of the _29th_, when it was snowing very fast," etc., -reached Pokegama falls at 1 p. m.; soon after found three deserted -Chippewa lodges, and "a fine parcel of split wood"; cut down three -balsam-firs to make a shelter, and camped. _Jan. 30th_, passed through -the "dismal cypress swamp," found Mr. Grant's cut-off and reached the -inhospitable Chippewas, who were living at or near White Oak pt. (All -this is given on the 28th in the above text; this is where the break -was made, though there is no break in the week-days, for the entry -"Tuesday, Jan. 28th," covers that day, Wednesday 29th, and Thursday -30th, as shown by what I have bracketed in the text.) _Jan. 31st_, -Pike and Miller continued on from White Oak pt. and went past the -mouth of the Leech Lake fork to some point on that fork, described -above as "one mile below [_i. e._ beyond] the traverse of the meadow," -in the 1807 text as "a mile above the meadow"; camped there. _Feb. -1st_, reached Leech l. "a little after midday," p. 39 of the 1807 -text, agreeing with 2.30 p. m. of above text well enough; across the -lake it was "12 miles" to the establishment of the North West Company, -at _which they arrived about ten o'clock in the evening_. "The gates -were locked," etc., p. 40. - -[II-54] Pike has now (Jan. 29th and 30th) gone up the Mississippi from -Grand Rapids to White Oak pt.--not following the river exactly, but -taking the cut-off Mr. Grant marked for him. The air-line distance is -about 13 m. Supposing him to have taken something like the usual -trail, he went as follows: At 3 m. direct above Grand Rapids, 4 m. by -the river, he passed Pokegama falls at 1 p. m., Jan. 29th. This is a -place where the Mississippi drops about 15 feet over a granular quartz -ridge: Pike maps it "Falls of Pakagama 20 F^t. Portage 200 yards." -It is naturally one of the best known points on the river in this -vicinity. It is visible in part from the car window as you go by on -the railroad, but the dam which has been built just above is a more -conspicuous object from that point of view. Nicollet calls the -cataract Kabikons or Little falls, and more fully Kakabikons or -Little-severed Rock falls. At 31/4 m. by the river, above these falls, -is the discharge of Lake Pokegama itself. This is by far the largest -body of water in the vicinity, having an extreme length of 13 m.; but -its form is so irregular, something like a hand with spread-out -fingers, that its actual shore-line is very much greater; and a number -of smaller sheets of water are dotted about it on all sides. Two of -the largest of these are Sisibakwet and Rice lakes. Nicollet renders -Pakegomag, "a name applied by the Chippeways to all sheets of water in -the vicinity of a river," Rep. 1843, p. 63. Schoolcraft says -Peckagama, Allen Pecagama, Owen Pokegoma; Packegamau, and I suppose a -dozen more forms of the word, are found; Beltrami has Pakegamanaguen -or Hook l.; the form I use seems to be most frequent now. The accent -is on the antepenult--Pokeg'-ama. A mile or so below the mouth of this -lake Bass brook falls in from the north, discharging from Bass and -other lakes; the town of Cohasset is at its mouth. The trail now -crosses, or lately did cross, the Mississippi from S. E. to N. W. in -this vicinity. It continues westward, past two overflows of the river -known as Backwater and Cut-off lakes, respectively, on one side and -the other of the Mississippi, continues to a small lake which I -suppose to be one of those so said by Pike above, and then strikes for -the larger lake he speaks of. This traverse leaves the Mississippi -several miles to the left as you go west; for the river makes an -extensive sharp bend S., and there receives Vermilion r. (Wanomon r. -on Nicollet's map) from the S., at the bight of this bend. Exactly 21/4 -m. below the mouth of Vermilion r. is the discharge of Lake -Kabukasagetewa (as the name is rendered on the Warner and Foote map). -The "large lake" of the above text is evidently that known to the -voyageurs as Lac aux Chenes, whence our Oak l., also White Oak l.; -from the head of which to Pointe aux Chenes, now Oak pt. or White Oak -pt. (Red-oak Point, Nic., p. 63), is exactly 21/2 m. This is clearly the -place where the good Samaritan Chippewa and his amiable family -resided, close by the mouth of Deer r., which Pike charts by this -name, and which is still so called. This falls in from the N. through -another White Oak l., also called Deer, also Stephen's. Notice that -_this last_ (Deer r.) is the stream Beltrami erroneously calls -Onomonikana-sibi or Vermilion r., as he fetches it in on the N., both -in text and on his map. - -_Addendum to the above._ I found when at Deer River that the -nomenclature of the natives does not agree with that on our best maps -regarding the lake to be called "White Oak." The first White Oak l. of -the above note, and of all our modern maps--the one which Pike comes -to before he reaches White Oak pt.--is a small one 11/2 x 3/4 m., lying -chiefly in Sects. 3 and 10 of T. 55, R. 27, 4th M., and through it -goes one but not the other of the two courses into which the -Mississippi is here widely divided. The people never call this White -Oak l., but apply that name to the much larger one through which Deer -r. discharges above White Oak pt.--the Deer l. of Nicollet, Stephen's -lake of our maps. This is a pear-shaped body of water 23/4 m. in extreme -length, with a greatest breadth of over a mile at its lower end. It -lies mainly in Sects. 1, 2, and 12 of T. 144, R. 25, 5th M., but with -the butt end overrunning into T. 56, R. 27, 4th M., and both the inlet -and the outlet of Deer r. being in the latter township. It is thus -entirely off Pike's trail, N. and W. of White Oak pt. This lake -discharges into a loop of the Mississippi by a short thoroughfare of 1/2 -a mile, ending close above White Oak pt., in the N. E. 1/4 of Sect. 13, -T. 144, R. 25, 5th M. The miserable hamlet of Deer River--as vile a -place as it was ever my bad luck to discover--lies W. of Deer r., and -a mile or more N. of White Oak l. Here is the terminus of the D. and -W. R. R., a siding of which runs down to the lake at a point 1/2 a mile -W. of the inlet of Deer r., where a pier is built. On crossing the -lake to get into and go up the Mississippi the usual route is through -the outlet and thence _down_ the Mississippi for nearly a mile, to get -into a long, straight cut-off which avoids some great bends. But there -is a shorter way still, if one can find it, as I did on coming -down--an obscure point directly opposite the pier, in the reeds, where -a canoe can be pushed through into the nearest bend, and so save more -than a mile. A fact which may have originated or perpetuated the above -noted confusion of names is that, above this _large_ White Oak or -Stephen's l. there is a point of hard-wood called Little White Oak -pt., occupying a position with reference to the larger lake like that -which the original Pointe aux Chenes or Oak pt. bears to the lesser -lake. A glance at the Engineer chart, or at such a good map as -Jewett's, on the scale of 2 m. to the inch, will give a clearer idea -of these points than the most elaborate description is likely to -convey. - -[II-55] "Chewockomen," as well as the "Chewockmen" of the 1807 ed., is -far from any recognized or acceptable spelling of the Chippewa word, -one fairly good form of which is _Kitchimokomen_. Schoolcraft has -Chimoquemon. It means Big Knives or Long Knives, and is commonly so -translated, the reference being either to the swords of the officers -or the bayonets of the soldiers, which have often struck Indians -forcibly, both in a literal and in a figurative sense. Kitchimokomen -corresponds to the Sioux name _Isantanka_, of the same meaning and -application. - -[II-56] On leaving White Oak pt. on the morning of Jan. 31st, Pike and -Miller proceeded approximately up the course of the Mississippi to the -"fork" above said, _i. e._, the confluence of Leech Lake fork with the -main stream. This stretch, which Pike calls "nearly 15 miles long," is -just 6 m. in an air-line, and not much more by the trail. The -Mississippi here flows through "meadows," as Pike correctly says; -these meadows are in part what Nicollet named Eagle Nest savannah. It -is absolutely flat and low marshy ground, alternating with haying -fields, extending widely on both sides of the river, S. and W. of -White Oak l. Little White Oak pt. reaches the river in a narrow tongue -of higher ground, from the N., while higher up several bends of the -river abut against woodland on the S. Throughout this reach the river -is exceeding tortuous; its bends are, moreover, so connected with -collateral channels, in part natural and in part artificial, that the -stream is virtually double and incloses a series of large islands in -its sinuous folds. Some of these thoroughfares float the steamboats -that ply on the river to transport the hay; others are mere ditches, -through which only canoes can be shoved. Two m. below (N. N. E. of) -the Leech Lake fork, the Mississippi receives an important affluent, -namely, the discharge of Ball Club l., which enters at about the -middle of the S. border of Sect. 31, T. 145, R. 25, 5th M., and thus -only about 4 m. due W. of Deer River (town). The difference in level -between this lake and the river is so slight that sometimes, when the -latter is full, it backs up into the former. Ball Club is a pretty -large lake--6 m. long, usually called 7, and 1 to 2 m. broad in -different places, with its long axis about N. W. and S. E.; its shape -is not very well delineated on the Engineer chart, being not elbowed -enough. The outlet is from the lower broad end, in the same Sect. in -which it joins the Mississippi, and is thus less than 1 m. long -(little over 1/2 m.). This lake is notable because it is the usual and -direct route up to Little Lake Winnibigoshish and so on, to avoid the -more circuitous course of the Mississippi itself. You traverse the -main axis of the lake from its outlet N. W. to its head, and there -make a portage of a mile or so over into Little Lake Winnibigoshish. -"Ball Club," the now universal name of this body of water, is a term -which translates the F. La Crosse; Schoolcraft renders once Lac a la -Crose; Pike has Lac Le Crosse and Le Cross. Schoolcraft has in another -place Bogottowa l., which aboriginal name is rendered Bagatwa by -Beltrami, Pagadowan by Nicollet, by others Pagadawin, etc. All these -names refer to the celebrated game of ball, which the learned -Anglojibway Warren calls _baugahudoway_. Several streams feed this -lake; one of them comes in at the head, from a small lake which -Schoolcraft named Helix l., from the abundance of its snails of that -genus. To return from this excursus to Pike at the mouth of the Leech -Lake fork, up which he goes: This is of course a definite and -well-known point, exactly on the dividing line between the S. W. 1/4 of -Sect. 7, T. 144, R. 25, and the S. E. 1/4 of Sect. 12, T. 144, R. 26, -5th M. I had a good view of the confluence from a bit of high bank on -the left or N. side of the Mississippi, looking across the mazes of -marsh and meadow land through which both streams meander to their -junction. Leech Lake r. is a very large branch of the Mississippi, -deserving the name of "fork" which Pike applies; he also calls it the -South, and the Sang Sue branch or fork. Beltrami essays the Chippewa -name, as Cazaguaguagine-sibi. Inasmuch as Pike considered this river -to be the main stream, I propose to designate Leech Lake and its -feeders and discharge as the =Pikean Source=, in distinction from the -Julian, Plantagenian, and Itascan sources we shall discuss beyond. -Passing the Forks, Pike and Miller go up Leech Lake r., Jan. 31st, to -some undetermined point in the vicinity of the largest lake into which -this stream expands, and which Pike calls Muddy l. This is of an oval -figure, about 4 m. long by half as broad; its outlet is 31/4 m. up Leech -Lake r. from the forks. Nicollet named it Lake Bessel, after the -famous scientist--his map fairly glitters with the galaxy of -illustrious names he reflects from the bosoms of lakes in Northern -Minnesota, though I cannot recall an instance in which such academic -nomenclature has been "understanded of the people" and retained in -their speech. The lake in present mention is always called Mud or -Muddy, and is much frequented by the Indians for the eminently -utilitarian purpose of gathering wild rice. I saw a string of their -canoes heading that way Aug. 15th, 1894. - - - - -CHAPTER III. - -ITINERARY, CONCLUDED: LEECH LAKE TO ST. LOUIS, FEBRUARY 1ST-APRIL -30TH, 1806. - - -Saturday, Feb. 1st. Left our camp pretty early. Passed a continued -train of prairie, and arrived at Lake La Sang Sue [Leech lake] at -half-past two o'clock. I will not attempt to describe my feelings on -the accomplishment of my voyage, for this is [what was then mistaken -to be] the main source of the Mississippi.[III-1] The Lake Winipie -branch is navigable thence to [Upper] Red Cedar [now Cass] lake, for -the distance of five leagues, which is [very far from being] the -extremity of the navigation. Crossed the lake 12 miles to the -establishment of the N. W. Company, where we arrived about three -o'clock [10 o'clock, p. m.]; found all the gates locked, but upon -knocking were admitted, and received with marked attention and -hospitality by Mr. Hugh M'Gillis. Had a good dish of coffee, biscuit, -butter, and cheese for supper. - -_Sunday, Feb. 2d._ Remained all day within doors. In the evening sent -an invitation to Mr. [George] Anderson, who was an agent of Dickson, -and also for some young Indians at his house, to come over and -breakfast in the morning. - -_Feb. 3d._ Spent the day in reading Volney's Egypt,[III-2] proposing -some queries to Mr. Anderson, and preparing my young man [Miller] to -return with a supply of provisions to my party. - -_Feb. 4th._ Miller departed this morning. Mr. Anderson returned to his -quarters. My legs and ankles were so much swelled that I was not able -to wear my own clothes and was obliged to borrow some from Mr. -M'Gillis. - -_Feb. 5th._ One of Mr. M'Gillis' clerks [Roussand or Boussant[III-3]] -had been sent to some Indian lodges and expected to return in four -days, but had now been absent nine. Mr. Grant was dispatched in order -to find out what had become of him. - -_Feb. 6th._ My men arrived at the fort about four o'clock.[III-4] Mr. -M'Gillis asked if I had any objections to his hoisting their [British] -flag in compliment to ours. I made none, as I had not yet explained to -him my ideas. In making a traverse of the lake, some of my men had -their ears, some their noses, and others their chins frozen. - -_Feb. 7th._ Remained within doors, my limbs being still very much -swelled. Addressed a letter to Mr. M'Gillis on the subject of the N. -W. Company trade in this quarter.[III-5] - -_Feb. 8th._ Took the latitude and found it to be 47 deg. 16' 13". Shot -with our rifles. - -_Sunday, Feb. 9th._ Mr. M'Gillis and myself paid a visit to Mr. -Anderson, an agent of Mr. Dickson of the Lower Mississippi, who -resided at the west end of the lake.[III-6] Found him eligibly situated -as to trade, but his houses bad. I rode in a cariole for one person, -constructed in the following manner: Boards planed smooth, turned up -in front about two feet, coming to a point, and about 21/2 feet wide -behind; on which is fixed a box covered with dressed skins painted; -this box is open at the top, but covered in front about two-thirds of -the length. The horse is fastened between the shafts. The rider wraps -himself up in a buffalo-robe and sits flat down, having a cushion to -lean his back against. Thus accoutered, with a fur cap, etc., he may -bid defiance to the wind and weather. Upon our return we found that -some of the Indians had already returned from the hunting-camps; also, -Monsieur Roussand [Mr. M'Gillis' clerk of Feb. 5th], the gentleman -supposed to have been killed by the Indians. His arrival with Mr. -Grant diffused a general satisfaction through the fort. - -_Feb. 10th._ Hoisted the American flag in the fort. The English yacht -[Jack] still flying at the top of the flagstaff, I directed the -Indians and my riflemen to shoot at it. They soon broke the iron pin -to which it was fastened, and brought it to the ground. Reading -Shenstone, etc. - -_Feb. 11th._ The Sweet, Buck, Burnt, etc., arrived, all chiefs of -note, but the former in particular, a venerable old man.[III-7] From him -I learned that the Sioux occupied this ground when, to use his own -phrase, "he was a made man and began to hunt; that they occupied it -the year that the French missionaries were killed at the river -Pacagama." The Indians flocked in. - -_Feb. 12th._ Bradley and myself, with Mr. M'Gillis and two of his men, -left Leech Lake at ten o'clock, and arrived at the house at [Upper] -Red Cedar [now Cass[III-8]] Lake, at sunset, a distance of 30 miles. My -ankles were very much swelled and I was very lame. From the entrance -of the Mississippi to the streight is called six miles, S. W. -course. Thence to the south end, S. 30 E. four miles. The bay at the -entrance extends nearly E. and W. six miles; it is about 21/2 from the -north side to a large point. This may be called the upper source of -the Mississippi, being 15 miles above Little Lake Winipie [_i. e._, -Lake Winnibigoshish]; and the extent of canoe navigation only two -leagues to some of the Hudson's Bay waters. - -_Feb. 13th._ Were favored with a beautiful day. Took the latitude, and -found it to be 47 deg. 42' 40" N. At this place it was that Mr. -Thompson[III-9] made his observations in 1798, from which he determined -that the source of the Mississippi was in 47 deg. 38'. I walked about -three miles back in the country, at two-thirds water. One of our men -marched to Lake Winepie [_i. e._, Lake Winnibigoshish] and returned by -one o'clock, for the stem of the Sweet's pipe, a matter of more -consequence in his affairs with the Sioux than the diploma of many an -ambassador. We feasted on whitefish [_Coregonus_ sp.], roasted on two -iron grates fixed horizontally in the back of the chimney; the -entrails left in the fish. - -_Feb. 14th._ Left the house at nine o'clock. It becomes me here to do -justice to the hospitality of our hosts: one Roy, a Canadian, and his -wife, a Chipeway squaw. They relinquished for our use the only thing -in the house that could be called a bed, attended us like servants, -nor could either of them be persuaded to touch a mouthful until we had -finished our repasts. We made the [Leech Lake] garrison about sundown, -having been drawn at least 10 miles in a sleigh by two small dogs. -They were loaded with 200 pounds, and went so fast as to render it -difficult for the men with snowshoes to keep up with them. The chiefs -asked my permission to dance the calumet-dance, which I granted. - -_Feb. 15th._ The Flat Mouth,[III-10] chief of the Leech Lake village, -and many other Indians arrived. Received a letter from Mr. -M'Gillis.[III-11] Noted down the heads of my speech, and had it -translated into French, in order that the interpreter should be -perfectly master of his subject. - -_Sunday, Feb. 16th._ Held a council with the chiefs and warriors of -this place and of Red Lake; but it required much patience, coolness, -and management to obtain the objects I desired, viz.: That they should -make peace with the Sioux; deliver up their [British] medals and -flags; and that some of their chiefs should follow me to St. -Louis.[III-12] As a proof of their agreeing to the peace, I directed that -they should smoke out of the [Sioux chief] Wabasha's pipe, which lay -on the table; they all smoked, from the head chief to the youngest -soldier. They generally delivered up their flags with a good grace, -except Flat Mouth, who said he had left both at his camp, three days' -march, and promised to deliver them up to Mr. M'Gillis to be -forwarded. With respect to their returning with me, old Sweet thought -it most proper to return to the Indians of Red lake, Red river, and -Rainy Lake river. Flat Mouth said it was necessary for him to restrain -his young warriors, etc. The other chiefs did not think themselves of -sufficient consequence to offer any reason for not following me to St. -Louis, a journey of between 2,000 and 3,000 miles through hostile -tribes of Indians. I then told them, "that I was sorry to find that -the hearts of the Sauteurs of this quarter were so weak; that the -other nations would say, 'What! were there no soldiers at Leech, Red, -and Rainy Lakes who had the hearts to carry the calumet of their chief -to their father?'" This had the desired effect. The Bucks and Beaux -[_sic_--both pl.], two of the most celebrated young warriors, rose and -offered themselves to me for the embassy; they were accepted, adopted -as my children, and I was installed their father. Their example -animated the others, and it would have been no difficult matter to -have taken a company; two, however, were sufficient. I determined that -it should be my care never to make them regret the noble confidence -placed in me; for I would have protected their lives with my own. -Beaux is brother to Flat Mouth. Gave my new soldiers a dance and a -small dram. They attempted to get more liquor, but a firm and -peremptory denial convinced them I was not to be trifled with. - -_Feb. 17th._ The chief of the land[III-13] brought in his flag and -delivered it up. Made arrangements to march my party the next day. -Instructed Sweet how to send the parole to the Indians of Red river, -etc. Put my men through the manual, and fired three blank rounds, all -of which not a little astonished the Indians. I was obliged to give my -two new soldiers each a blanket, pair of leggins, scissors, and -looking-glass. - -_Feb. 18th._ We[III-14] marched for [Lower] Red Cedar Lake about eleven -o'clock, with a guide provided for me by Mr. M'Gillis; were all -provided with snowshoes. Marched off amid the acclamations and shouts -of the Indians, who generally had remained to see us take our -departure. Mr. Anderson promised to come on with letters; he arrived -about twelve o'clock and remained all night. He concluded to go down -with me to see Mr. Dickson. - -_Feb. 19th._ Bradley, Mr. L'Rone [?], the two young Indians [Buck and -Beau], and myself, left Mr. M'Gillis' at ten o'clock; crossed Leech -Lake in a S. E. direction 24 miles. Mr. M'Gillis' hospitality deserves -to be particularly noticed; he presented me with his dogs and cariole, -valued in this country at $200. One of the dogs broke out of his -harness, and we were not able during that day to catch him again; the -other poor fellow was obliged to pull the whole load--at least 150 -pounds. This day's march was from lake to lake.[III-15] - -_Feb. 20th._ I allowed my men to march at least three hours before me; -notwithstanding which, as it was cold and the road good, my sleigh -dogs brought me ahead of all by one o'clock. Halted for an encampment -at half past two o'clock. Our courses this day were S. E. six miles, -then S. 18 miles, almost all the way over lakes, some of which were -six miles across. Encamped on the bank of a lake called Sandy -Lake.[III-16] Indians were out hunting. - -_Feb. 21st._ Traveled this day generally S. Passed but two lakes; -Sandy Lake, which is of an oblong form, N. and S. four miles, and one -other small one. The Indians, at the instigation of Mr. L'Rone, -applied for him to accompany us. I consented that he should go as far -as [Lower] Red Cedar Lake. I then wrote a note to M'Gillis upon the -occasion. After Reale had departed with it, L'Rone disclosed to me -that it was his wish to desert the N. W. Company entirely, and -accompany me. To have countenanced for a moment anything of this kind, -I conceived would have been inconsistent with every principle of -honor; I therefore obliged him to return immediately. We then had no -guide, our Indians not knowing the road. Our course was through woods -and bad brush, 15 miles. - -_Feb. 22d._ Our course a little to the S. of E., through woods not -very thick. Arrived at White Fish Lake[III-17] at eleven o'clock, and -took an observation. My party crossed this lake and encamped between -two lakes. This may be called the source of Pine river. At this place -has been one of the N. W. Company's establishments at the N. E. and S. -side. It was a square stockade of about 50 feet, but at this time -nearly all consumed by fire. Also one standing over the point on the -E. side. - -_Sunday, Feb. 23d._ My two Indians, Boley, and myself, with my sleigh -and dogs, left the party under an idea that we should make [Lower] Red -Cedar lake. We marched hard all day, without arriving at the -Mississippi. Our course was nearly due east until near night, when we -changed more south. Took no provision or bedding. My Indians killed 15 -partridges, some nearly black, with a red mark over their eyes, called -the savanna partridge [Canada grouse or spruce partridge, _Dendragapus -canadensis_]. Overtaken about noon by two of Mr. Anderson's men, named -Brurie and [Blank], Mr. Anderson himself not being able to come. -Distance 30 miles. - -_Feb. 24th._ We started early, and after passing over one of the worst -roads in the world, found ourselves on a lake about three o'clock; -took its outlet [Dean creek] and struck the Mississippi about one mile -below the [Chippewa] canoes mentioned on Jan. 1st, by which I knew -where we were. Ascended the Mississippi about four miles, and encamped -on the west side [about the mouth of Hay creek[III-18]]. Our general -course this day was nearly S., when it should have been S. E. My -young warriors were still in good heart, singing and showing every -wish to keep me so. The pressure of my racket-strings brought the -blood through my socks and mockinsons, from which the pain I marched -in may be imagined. - -_Feb. 25th._ We marched and arrived at [Lower Red] Cedar lake before -noon; found Mr. Grant and De Breche, chief of Sandy lake -[Chippewas[III-19]] at the house. This gave me much pleasure, for I -conceive Mr. Grant to be a gentleman of as much candor as any with -whom I made an acquaintance in this quarter, and the chief, De Breche, -is reputed to be a man of better information than any [other] of the -Sauteurs. - -_Feb. 26th._ Sent one of Mr. Grant's men down with a bag of rice to -meet my people; he found them encamped on the Mississippi. Wrote a -letter[III-20] to Mr. Dickson on the subject of the Fols Avoins [Folle -Avoine or Menomonee Indians]; also, some orders to my sergeant -[Kennerman, at the stockade on Swan river]. This evening I had a long -conversation with De Breche; he informed me that a string of wampum -had been sent among the Chipeways, he thought by the British -commanding officer at St. Joseph. He appeared to be a very intelligent -man. - -_Feb. 27th._ The chief called the White Fisher and seven Indians -arrived at the house. My men also arrived about twelve o'clock. - -_Feb. 28th._ We left [Lower] Red Cedar lake about eleven o'clock, and -went to where the canoes were [near Dean creek], mentioned in my -journal of Jan. 1st. My young Indians [Buck and Beau] remained behind -under the pretense of waiting for the chief De Breche, who returned to -Sandy Lake for his [British] flag and medals, and was to render -himself at my post with Mr. Grant about the 15th of the following -month. - -_Mar. 1st._ Departed early. Passed our encampment of Dec. 31st at nine -o'clock. Passed Pine river at twelve o'clock. Passed our encampment of -Dec. 30th at three o'clock. Passed our encampment of Dec. 29th just -before we came to our present, which we made on the point of the Pine -Ridge below. Distance 43 miles.[III-21] - -_Sunday, Mar. 2d._ Passed our encampment of Dec. 28th at ten o'clock, -that of Dec. 27th at one o'clock, and encamped at that of Dec. 26th -[Brainerd]. Found wood nearly sufficient for our use. This morning -dispatched Bradley to the last place we had buried a barrel of flour -[Dec. 20th, a short distance below Crow Wing river], to thaw the -ground and hunt. This day a party of Indians struck the river behind -Bradley and before us, but left it 10 miles above Raven [Crow Wing] -river. - -_Mar. 3d._ Marched early; passed our Christmas encampment at sunrise. -I was ahead of my party in my cariole. Soon afterward I observed a -smoke on the W. shore. I hallooed, and some Indians appeared on the -bank. I waited until my interpreter came up; we then went to the camp. -They proved to be a party of Chipeways, who had left the encampment -the same day we left it. They presented me with some roast meat, which -I gave my sleigh dogs. They then left their camp and accompanied us -down the river. We passed our encampment of Dec. 24th at nine -o'clock, of the 23d at ten o'clock, and of the 22d at eleven o'clock; -here the Indians crossed over to the W. shore; arrived at the -encampment of Dec. 21st at twelve o'clock, where we had a barrel of -flour [cached Dec. 20th, short of Crow Wing river]. - -I here found Corporal Meek and another man from the post [on Swan -river], from whom I heard that the men were all well; they confirmed -the account of a Sioux having fired on a sentinel; and added that the -sentinel had first made him drunk and then turned him out of the tent; -upon which he fired on the sentinel and ran off, but promised to -deliver himself up in the spring. The corporal informed me that the -sergeant [Kennerman] had used all the elegant hams and saddles of -venison which I had preserved to present to the commander-in-chief and -other friends; that he had made away with all the whisky, including a -keg I had for my own use, having publicly sold it to the men, and a -barrel of pork; that he had broken open my trunk and sold some things -out of it, traded with the Indians, gave them liquor, etc.; and this, -too, contrary to my most pointed and particular directions. Thus, -after I had used in going up the river with my party the strictest -economy, living upon two pounds of frozen venison a day, in order that -we might have provision to carry us down in the spring, this fellow -was squandering the flour, pork, and liquor during the winter, while -we were starving with hunger and cold. I had saved all our corn, -bacon, and the meat of six deer, and left it at Sandy Lake, with some -tents, my mess-boxes, salt, tobacco, etc., all of which we were -obliged to sacrifice by not returning the same route we went; we had -consoled ourselves at this loss by the flattering idea that we should -find at our little post a handsome stock preserved--how mortifying the -disappointment! - -We raised our barrel of flour and came down to the mouth of the little -[Nokasippi] river, on the E., which we had passed on Dec. 21st. The -ice covered with water. - -_Mar. 4th._ Proceeded early. Passed our encampment of Dec. 20th at -sunrise. Arrived at that of the 19th [read 17th] at nine o'clock; here -we had buried two barrels.[III-22] Made a large fire to thaw the ground. -Went on the prairie and found Sparks, one of my hunters, and brought -him to the river at the Pine Camp [of Dec. 14th, 15th, 16th, vicinity -of Olmsted's bar]. Passed on opposite our encampment of Dec. 13th [at -or near Topeka], and encamped where Sparks and some men had an old -hunting-camp, and where Fresaie, a Chipeway chief, surrounded them. - -_Mar. 5th._ Passed all the encampments [Dec. 12th, 11th, 10th, 9th] -between Pine creek and the post, at which we arrived about ten -o'clock.[III-23] I sent a man on ahead to prevent the salute I had -before ordered by letter [of Feb. 28th]; this I had done from the idea -that the Sioux chiefs would accompany me. Found all well. Confined my -sergeant. About one o'clock Mr. Dickson arrived, with Killeur Rouge, -his son, and two other Sioux men, with two women who had come up to be -introduced to the Sauteurs they expected to find with me. Received a -letter from [Joseph] Reinville. - -_Mar. 6th._ Thomas [Carron[III-24]], the Fols Avoin's first chief, -arrived with ten others of his nation. I made a serious and -authoritative expostulative representation to him of my opinion of the -conduct of Shawonoe, another chief of his nation, who had behaved ill. -Had also a conference with Killeur Rouge and his people. At night -wrote to Messrs. Grant, M'Gillis, and Anderson. - -_Mar. 7th._ Held conversations with the Indians. Thomas [Carron], the -Fols Avoin chief, assured me that he would interest himself in -obliging the Puants to deliver up the men who had recently committed -murders on the Ouiscousing and Rock rivers; and if necessary he would -make it a national quarrel, on the side of the Americans. This Thomas -is a fine fellow, of a very masculine figure, noble and animated -delivery, and appears to be very much attached to the Americans. The -Sioux informed me that they would wait until I had determined my -affairs in this country, and then bear my words to the St. Peters. - -_Mar. 8th._ The Fols Avoin chief presented me with his pipe to give to -the Sauteurs on their arrival, with assurances of their safety on -their voyage, and his wish for them to descend the river. The Fils de -Killeur Rouge also presented me with his pipe to present to the -Sauteur Indians on their arrival, to make them smoke, and assure them -of his friendly disposition, and that he would wait to see them at Mr. -Dickson's. Thomas made a formal complaint against a Frenchman, by name -Greignor,[III-25] who resided in Green bay, and who he said abused the -Indians, beat them, etc., without provocation. I promised to write to -the commanding officer or Indian agent at Michilimackinac upon the -occasion. The Indians with Mr. Dickson all took their departure. -Hitched my dogs in the sleigh, which drew one of the Indian women down -the ice, to the no little amusement of the others. Went some distance -down the river in order to cut a mast. Cut a pine mast 35 feet long -for my big boat at the prairie [Prairie du Chien]. This day my little -boy broke the cock of my gun; few trifling misfortunes could have -happened which I should have regretted more, as the wild fowl just -began to return on the approach of spring. - -_Sunday, Mar. 9th._ I examined into the conduct of my sergeant, and -found that he was guilty; punished him by reduction, etc. Visited the -Fols Avoin lodges and received a present of some tallow. One of my men -arrived from the hunting-camp with two deer. - -_Mar. 10th._ Was visited by the Fols Avoin chief and several others of -his nation. This chief was an extraordinary hunter; to instance his -power, he killed 40 elk and a bear in one day, chasing the former from -dawn to eve. We were all busied in preparing oars, guns, mast, etc., -by the time the ice broke up, which was opening fast. - -_Mar. 11th._ In a long conversation with a Reynard, he professed not -to believe in an hereafter; but he believed that the world would all -be drowned by water at some future period; he asked how it was to be -repeopled. In justice to his nation, however, I must observe that his -opinion was singular.[III-26] - -_Mar. 12th._ Made preparations; had a fine chase with deer on the ice; -killed one. Since our return I have received eight deer from our camp. - -_Mar. 13th._ Received two deer from my hunting-camp. Went out with my -gun on the opposite side of the river. Ascended the mountain which -borders the prairie. On the point of it I found a stone on which the -Indians had sharpened their knives, and a war-club half finished. From -this spot you may extend the eye over vast prairies with scarcely any -interruption but clumps of trees, which at a distance appeared like -mountains, from two or three of which the smoke rising in the air -denoted the habitation of the wandering savage, and too often marked -them out as victims to their enemies; from whose cruelty I have had -the pleasure in the course of the winter and through a wilderness of -immense extent to relieve them, as peace has reigned through my -mediation from the prairie Des Cheins to the lower Red river. If a -subaltern with but 20 men, at so great a distance from the seat of his -government, could effect so important a change in the minds of those -savages, what might not a great and independent power effect, if, -instead of blowing up the flames of discord, they exerted their -influence in the sacred cause of peace? - -When I returned to the fort, I found the Fols Avoin chief, who -intended to remain all night. He told me that near the conclusion of -the Revolutionary War his nation began to look upon him as a warrior; -that they received a parole from Michilimackinac, on which he was -dispatched with 40 warriors; and that on his arrival he was requested -to lead them against the Americans. To which he replied: "We have -considered you and the Americans as one people. You are now at war; -how are we to decide who has justice on their side? Besides, you white -people are like the leaves on the trees for numbers. Should I march -with my 40 warriors to the field of battle, they with their chief -would be unnoticed in the multitude, and would be swallowed up as the -big water embosoms the small rivulets which discharge themselves into -it. No, I will return to my nation, where my countrymen may be of -service against our red enemies, and their actions renowned in the -dance of our nation." - -_Mar. 14th._ Took the latitude by an artificial horizon, and measured -the river. Received one deer and a half from my hunting-camp. Ice -thinner. - -_Mar. 15th._ This was the day fixed upon by Mr. Grant and the Chipeway -warriors for their arrival at my fort. I was all day anxiously -expecting them, for I knew that should they not accompany me down, the -peace partially effected between them and the Sioux would not be on a -permanent footing. Upon this I take them to be neither so brave or -generous as the Sioux, who in all their transactions appear to be -candid and brave, whereas the Chipeways are suspicious, consequently -treacherous and of course cowards. - -_Sunday, Mar. 16th._ Received three deer from our hunting-camp. -Examined trees for canoes. - -_Mar. 17th._ Left the fort with my interpreter [Rousseau] and [Private -Alexander] Roy, in order to visit Thomas, the Fols Avoin chief, who -was encamped, with six lodges of his nation, about 20 miles below us, -on a little [Wolf creek of Pike, now Spunk] river which empties into -the Mississippi on the W. side, a little above Clear river [of Pike, -now the Platte]. On our way down killed one goose, wounded another, -and a deer that the dogs had driven into an air-hole; hung our game on -the trees. Arrived at the creek; took out on it; ascended three or -four miles on one bank, and descended on the other [missing Carron's -camp both ways]. Killed another goose. Struck the Mississippi below -[Spunk river]. Encamped at our encampment of the [13th] of October, -when we ascended the river. Ate our goose for supper. It snowed all -day, and at night a very severe storm arose. It may be imagined that -we spent a very disagreeable night without shelter, and but one -blanket each. - -_Mar. 18th._ We marched [up Spunk river], determined to find the -[Menomonee] lodges. Met an Indian whose track we pursued through -almost impenetrable woods for about 21/2 miles to the camp. Here there -was one of the finest sugar-camps I almost ever saw, the whole of the -timber being sugar-tree. We were conducted to the chief's lodge, who -received us in patriarchal style. He pulled off my leggings and -mockinsons, put me in the best place in his lodge, and offered me dry -clothes. He then presented us with syrup of the maple to drink, and -asked whether I preferred eating beaver, swan, elk, or deer; upon my -giving the preference to the first, a large kettle was filled by his -wife, in which soup was made; this being thickened with flour, we had -what I then thought a delicious repast. After we had refreshed -ourselves, he asked whether we would visit his people at the other -lodges, which we did, and in each were presented with something to -eat; by some, with a bowl of sugar; by others, a beaver's tail, etc. -After making this tour we returned to the chief's lodge, and found a -berth provided for each of us, of good soft bearskins nicely spread, -and on mine there was a large feather pillow. - -I must not here omit to mention an anecdote which serves to -characterize more particularly their manners. This in the eyes of the -contracted moralist would deform my hospitable host into a monster of -libertinism; but by a liberal mind would be considered as arising from -the hearty generosity of the wild savage. In the course of the day, -observing a ring on one of my fingers, he inquired if it was gold; he -was told it was the gift of one with whom I should be happy to be at -that time; he seemed to think seriously, and at night told my -interpreter, "That perhaps his father" (as they all called me) "felt -much grieved for the want of a woman; if so, he could furnish him with -one." He was answered that with us each man had but one wife, and that -I considered it strictly my duty to remain faithful to her. This he -thought strange, he himself having three, and replied that "He knew -some Americans at his nation who had half a dozen wives during the -winter." The interpreter observed that they were men without -character; but that all our great men had each but one wife. The chief -acquiesced, but said he liked better to have as many as he pleased. -This conversation passing without any appeal to me, as the interpreter -knew my mind on those occasions and answered immediately, it did not -appear as an immediate refusal of the woman. Continued snowing very -hard all day. Slept very warm. - -_Mar. 19th._ This morning purchased two baskets of sugar, for the -amount of which I gave orders on Mr. Dickson. After feasting upon a -swan, took our leave for [the Swan river] camp; still snowing. Finding -my two companions [the interpreter and Private Roy] unable to keep up, -I pushed on and arrived at the [Mississippi] river. When I arrived at -the place where I had hung up my first goose [Mar. 17th], I found that -the ravens and eagles had not left a feather; and feasting upon the -deer was a band sufficient to have carried it away, which had picked -its bones nearly clean; what remained I gave my dogs. Stopped at the -place where I expected to find the last goose, but could see nothing -of it; at length I found it hid under the grass and snow, where some -animal had concealed it, after eating off its head and neck. I carried -it to the fort, where I arrived about an hour before sundown. -Dispatched immediately two men with rackets to meet the interpreter -and Le Roy [Private A. Roy]. They arrived about two hours after dark. -Some men also arrived at [from?] the hunting-camp with three deer. -The snow ceased falling about one hour after dark; it was nearly two -feet deep on a level, the deepest that had fallen so low down this -winter. - -_Mar. 20th._ Dispatched nine men to my hunting-camp, whence received -two deer. Cloudy almost all day; but the water rose fast over the ice. - -_Mar. 21st._ Received a visit from the Fols Avoin chief called the -Shawonoe, and six young men. I informed him without reserve of the -news I had heard of him at [Lower] Red Cedar Lake, and the letter I -wrote to Mr. Dickson. He denied it in toto, and on the contrary said -that he presented his flag and two medals to the Chipeways, as an -inducement for them to descend in the spring; and gave them all the -encouragement in his power. His party was much astonished at the -language I held with him. But from his firm protestations we finally -parted friends. He informed me that a camp of Sauteurs were on the -river, waiting for the chiefs to come down; from which it appeared -they were still expected. At night, after the others had gone, Thomas -arrived and stayed all night. We agreed upon a hunting-party; also -promised to pay old Shawonoe a visit. He informed me that he set out -the other day to follow me, but finding the storm so very bad returned -to his wigwam. The thermometer lower than it has been at any time -since I commenced my voyage. - -_Mar. 22d._ Ten of my men arrived from the hunting-camp with 41/2 deer. -Thomas departed; I sent a man with him to his camps, from which he -sent me two beavers. - -_Sunday, Mar. 23d._ Agreeably to promise, after breakfast I departed -with Miller and my interpreter to pay a visit to the old chief -Shawonoe. We arrived at his camp in about two hours. On our way we met -the Fols Avoin called Chein Blanche [Chien Blanc], who had visited my -post [Dec. 7th] previously to my starting up the river, and at whose -house we stopped when passing. We were received by old Shawonoe at his -lodge with the usual Indian hospitality, but very different from the -polite reception given us by Thomas. - -Charlevoix and others have all borne testimony to the beauty of this -nation. From my own observation, I had sufficient reason to confirm -their information as respected the males; for they were all straight -and well-made, about the middle size; their complexions generally fair -for savages, their teeth good, their eyes large and rather -languishing; they have a mild but independent expression of -countenance, that charms at first sight; in short, they would be -considered anywhere as handsome men. But their account of the women I -never before believed to be correct. In this lodge there were five -very handsome women when we arrived; and about sundown a married pair -arrived, whom my interpreter observed were the handsomest couple he -knew; and in truth they were, the man being about 5 feet 11 inches, -and possessing in an eminent manner all the beauties of countenance -which distinguish his nation. His companion was 22 years old, having -dark brown eyes, jet hair, an elegantly proportioned neck, and her -figure by no means inclined to corpulency, as they generally are after -marriage. He appeared to attach himself particularly to me, and -informed that his wife was the daughter of an American who, passing -through the nation about 23 years before, remained a week or two -possessed of her mother, and that she was the fruit of this amour; but -his name they were unacquainted with. I had brought six biscuits with -me, which I presented her on the score of her being my countrywoman; -this raised a loud laugh, and she was called "the Bostonian"[III-27] -during the rest of my stay. - -I found them generally extremely hard to deal with. My provision being -only a little venison, I wished to procure some bear's oil, for a few -gallons of which I was obliged to pay $1 per gallon, and then they -wanted to mix tallow with the oil. They also demanded $10 for a -bearskin, the most beautiful I ever saw, which I wanted to mount a -saddle. Indeed I was informed that traders in this country sometimes -give as much as $16 [apiece] for bearskins, for they are eminently -superior to anything of the kind on the lower Mississippi, and sell in -Europe for double the price. In the evening we were entertained with -the calumet and dog dance; also the dance of the ----. Some of the men -struck the post and told some of their war exploits; but as they spoke -in Menomene, my interpreter could not explain it. After the dance, we -had the feast of the dead, as it is called, at which each two or -three were served with a pan or vessel full of meat, and when all were -ready there was a prayer, after which the eating commenced. Then it -was expected we should eat up our portion entirely, being careful not -to drop a bone, but to gather all up and put them in the dish. We were -then treated with soup. After the eating was finished the chief again -gave an exhortation, which finished the ceremony. I am told they then -gather up all the fragments, and throw them in the water, lest the -dogs should get them. Burning them is considered as sacrilegious. In -this lodge were collected at one time 41 persons, great and small, 17 -of whom were capable of bearing arms, besides dogs without number. - -_Mar. 24th._ Rose early and with my dog-sled arrived at the fort -before ten o'clock. In the afternoon Mr. Grant arrived with De Breche -[Breche-dent] and some of his young men. Saluted him with 14 rounds. -Found my two young warriors [Buck and Beau] of Leech Lake were brave -enough to return to their homes. Mr. Grant and myself sat up late -talking. - -_Mar. 25th._ Sent an Indian to Thomas' lodge, and a letter to Mr. -Dickson. It snowed and stormed all day. Gave the chief the news. - -_Mar. 26th._ Thomas, the Fols Avoin chief, arrived with seven of his -men, and old Shawonoe and six of his party. I had them all to feed as -well as my own men. At night I gave them leave to dance in the -garrison, which they did until ten o'clock; but once or twice told me -that if I was tired of them the dance should cease. Old Shawonoe and -White Dog [Chien Blanc] of the Fols Avoins told their exploits, which -we could not understand; but De Breche arose and said, "I once killed -a Sioux and cut off his head with such a spear as I now present to -this Winebago"--at the same time presenting one to a Winebago present, -with whom the Chipeways were at war; this was considered by the former -as a great honor. My hunters went out but killed nothing. - -_Mar. 27th._ In the morning the Chipeway chief made a speech and -presented his peace pipe to me to bear to the Sioux, on which were -seven strings of wampum, as authority from seven bands of the -Chipeways either to conclude peace or to make war. As he had chosen -the former, he sent his pipe to the Sioux and requested me to inform -them that he and his people would encamp at the mouth of the Riviere -De Corbeau the ensuing summer, where he would see the United States -flag flying. As a proof of his pacific disposition, the Fols Avoin -chief then spoke and said: "His nation was rendered small by its -enemies; only a remnant was left, but they could boast of not being -slaves; for that always in preference to their women and children -being taken, they themselves killed them. But that their father (as -they called me) had traveled far, and had taken much pains to prevent -the Sioux and Chipeways from killing one another; that he thought none -could be so ungenerous as to neglect listening to the words of their -father; that he would report to the Sioux the pacific disposition of -the Sauteurs, and hoped the peace would be firm and lasting." I then -in a few words informed De Breche "that I would report to the Sioux -all he had said, and that I should ever feel pleased and grateful that -the two nations had laid aside the tomahawk at my request. That I -thanked the Fols Avoin chief for his good wishes and parole which he -had given the Sauteurs." After all this, each chief was furnished with -a kettle of liquor, to drink each other's health; and De Breche's flag -which I had presented him was displayed in the fort. The Fols Avoins -then departed, at which I was by no means displeased; for they had -already consumed all the dry meat I had laid aside for my voyage, and -I was apprehensive that my hunters would not be able to lay up another -supply. - -_Mar. 28th._ Late in the afternoon Mr. Grant and the Sauteurs took -their departure, calculating that the Sioux had left the country. Took -with me one of my soldiers and accompanied them to the Fols Avoins -lodge, called the Shawonese, where we ten stayed all night. The Fols -Avoins and Sauteurs had a dance, at which I left them and went to -sleep. Feasted on elk, sugar, and syrup. Previously to the Indians' -departing from my post, I demanded the chief's medal and flags; the -former he delivered, but with a bad grace; the latter he said were in -the lands when I left Lake De Sable (as instructed by the traders I -suppose), and that he could not obtain them. It thundered and -lightened. - -_Mar. 29th._ We all marched in the morning, Mr. Grant and party for -Sandy Lake, and I for my hunting-camp. I gave him my spaniel dog. He -joined me again after we had separated about five miles. Arrived at my -hunting-camp about eight o'clock in the morning, and was informed that -my hunters had gone to bring in a deer; they arrived with it, and -about eleven o'clock we all went out hunting. Saw but few deer, out of -which I had the good fortune to kill two. On our arrival at camp found -one of my men at the garrison with a letter from Mr. Dickson. The -soldier informed me that one Sioux had arrived with Mr. Dickson's men. -Although much fatigued, as soon as I had eaten something I took one of -my men and departed for the garrison one hour before sundown. The -distance was 21 miles, and the ice very dangerous, being rotten, with -water over it nearly a foot deep; we had sticks in our hands, and in -many places ran them through the ice. It thundered and lightened, with -rain. The Sioux, not finding the Sauteurs, had returned immediately. - -_Sunday, Mar. 30th._ Wrote to Mr. Dickson, and dispatched his man. -Considerably stiff from my yesterday's march. Calked our boats, as the -ice had every appearance of breaking up in a few days. Thus while on -the wing of eager expectation, every day seemed an age. Received 21/2 -deer from our hunting-camp. - -_Mar. 31st._ Finished calking my boats; the difficulty then was with -me, what I should get to pitch the seams. We were all this day and -next as anxiously watching the ice as a lover would the arrival of the -priest who was to unite him to his beloved. Sometimes it moved a -little, but soon closed. An Indian and his woman crossed it when the -poles which they held in their hands were forced through in many -places. The provision to which I was obliged to restrict myself and -men, viz., two pounds of fresh venison per day, was scarcely -sufficient to keep us alive. Though I had not an extraordinary -appetite, yet I was continually hungry. - -[_Apr. 1st._ No entry.] - -_Apr. 2d._ Went out and killed one deer and two partridges. The ice -began to move opposite the fort at the foot of the rapids, but dammed -up below. Received half a dozen bears from my hunting-camp. Launched -our canoe and brought her down. - -_Apr. 3d._ Sent one man down to see the river, another to the camp, -and took two men myself over the hills on the other side of the -Mississippi to hunt. In the course of the day I killed a swan and a -goose, and we certainly would have killed one or two elk had it not -been for the sleigh-dogs; for we lay concealed on the banks of Clear -river when four came and threw themselves into it opposite, and were -swimming directly to us when our dogs bounced into the water, and they -turned. We then fired on them, but they carried off all the lead we -gave them, and we could not cross the river unless we rafted (it being -bank-full), which would have detained us too long a time. In the -evening it became very cold, and we passed rather an uncomfortable -night. - -_Apr. 4th._ Took our course home. I killed one large buck and wounded -another. We made a fire and ate breakfast. Arrived at the fort at two -o'clock. Was informed that the river was still shut below, at the -cluster of [Beltrami's Archipelago, Pike's Beaver, and now the -Thousand] islands. Received some bear-meat and one deer from the camp. - -_Apr. 5th._ In the morning dispatched two men down the river in order -to see if it was open. My hunters arrived from the camps. Tallowed my -boats with our candles and launched them; they made considerable -water. The young [son of] Shawonoe arrived in my canoe from above, -with about 1,000 lbs. of fur, which he deposited in the fort. The men -returned and informed me that the river was still shut about 10 miles -below. - -_Sunday, Apr. 6th._ Sailed my peroque with Sergeant Bradley [promoted, -_vice_ Kennerman reduced] and two men, to descend the river and see if -it was yet open below. They returned in the afternoon and reported all -clear. I had previously determined to load and embark the next day, -and hoped to find it free by the time I arrived. The Fols Avoin called -the Shawonoe arrived and encamped near the stockade. He informed me -that his nation had determined to send his son down in his place, as -he declined the voyage to St. Louis. All hearts and hands were -employed in preparing for our departure. In the evening the men -cleared out their room, danced to the violin, and sang songs until -eleven o'clock, so rejoiced was every heart at leaving this savage -wilderness. - -_Apr. 7th._ Loaded our boats and departed at 40 minutes past ten -o'clock. At one o'clock arrived at Clear river, where we found my -canoe and men. Although I had partly promised the Fols Avoin chief to -remain one night, yet time was too precious, and we put off; passed -the Grand [Sauk] Rapids, and arrived at Mr. Dickson's[III-28] just before -sun-down. We were saluted with three rounds. At night he treated all -my men with a supper and a dram. Mr. Dickson, Mr. Paulier, and myself -sat up until four o'clock in the morning. - -_Apr. 8th._ Were obliged to remain this day on account of some -information to be obtained here. I spent the day in making a rough -chart of St. Peters, notes on the Sioux, etc., and settling the -affairs of the Indian department with Mr. Dickson, for whose -communications and those of Mr. Paulier I am infinitely indebted. Made -every necessary preparation for an early embarkation. - -_Apr. 9th._ Rose early in the morning and commenced my arrangements. -Having observed two Indians drunk during the night, and finding upon -inquiry that the liquor had been furnished by a Mr. Greignor or -Jennesse [La Jeunesse], I sent my interpreter to them to request they -would not sell any strong drink to the Indians; upon which Mr. -Jennesse demanded the restrictions in writing, which were given to -him.[III-29] On demanding his license it amounted to no more than merely -a certificate that he had paid the tax required by a law of the -Indiana territory on all retailers of merchandise, and was by no -means an Indian license; however, I did not think proper to go into a -more close investigation. Last night was so cold that the water was -covered with floating cakes of ice, of a strong consistence. After -receiving every mark of attention from Messrs. Dickson and Paulier, I -took my departure at eight o'clock. At 4 p. m. arrived at the house of -Mr. Paulier, 25 leagues, to whose brother I had a letter. Was received -with politeness by him and a Mr. Veau [Vean of 1807 text, p. 56] who -had wintered alongside of him, on the very island at which we had -encamped on the night of the [4th?] of October in ascending. - -After having left this place some time, we discovered a bark canoe -ahead; we gained on it for some time, when it turned a point about 300 -yards before, and on our turning it also, it had entirely disappeared. -This excited my curiosity; I stood up in the barge, and at last -discovered it turned up in the grass of the prairie; but after we had -passed a good gunshot, three savages made their appearance from under -it, launched it in the river, and followed, not knowing of my other -boats, which had just turned the point immediately upon them. They -then came on; and on my stopping for the night at a vacant -trading-house, they also stopped, and addressed me, "_Saggo, -Commandant_," or "Your servant, Captain." I directed my interpreter to -inquire their motives for concealing themselves. They replied that -their canoe leaked, and that they had turned her up to discharge the -water. This I did not believe; and as their conduct was equivocal I -received them rather sternly; I gave them, however, a small dram and -piece of bread. They then re-embarked and continued down the river. - -Their conduct brought to mind the visit of Fils de Pinchow to Mr. -Dickson, during the winter; one principal cause of which was that he -wished to inform me that the seven men, whom I mentioned to have met -[Sept. 28th] when crossing the portage of St. Anthony, had since -declared that they would kill him for agreeing to the peace between -the Sioux and the Sauteurs; me for being instrumental in preventing -them from taking their revenge for relations killed by Sauteurs in -August, 1805; and Thomas, the Fols Avoin chief, for the support he -seemed disposed to give me. This information had not made the -impression it ought to have made, coming from so respectable a source -as the first chief of the village; but the conduct of those fellows -put me to the consideration of it. And I appeal to God and my country, -if self-preservation would not have justified me in cutting those -scoundrels to pieces wherever I found them? This my men would have -done, if ordered, amid a thousand of them, and I should have been -supported by the chiefs of the St. Peters, at the mouth of which were -300 warriors, attending my arrival; also [I should have been justified -in cutting to pieces], the rascal who fired on my sentinel last winter -[see Mar. 3d, p. 178]. I dreaded the consequences of the meeting, not -for the present, but for fear the impetuosity of my conduct might not -be approved of by my government, which did not so intimately know the -nature of those savages. - -This day, for the first time, we saw the commencement of vegetation; -yet the snow was a foot deep in some places. - -_Apr. 10th._ Sailed at half past five o'clock; about seven passed Rum -river, and at eight were saluted by six or seven lodges of Fols -Avoins, among whom was a Mr. [Blank], a clerk of Mr. Dickson's. Those -people had wintered on Rum river, and were waiting for their chiefs -and traders to descend in order to accompany them to the Prairie Des -Chiens. Arrived at the Falls of St. Anthony at ten o'clock. Carried -over all our lading and the canoe to the lower end of the portage, and -hauled our boats up on the bank. I pitched my tents at the lower end -of the encampment, where all the men encamped except the guard, whose -quarters were above. - -The appearance of the Falls was much more tremendous than when we -ascended; the increase of water occasioned the spray to rise much -higher, and the mist appeared like clouds. How different my sensations -now, from what they were when at this place before! At that time, not -having accomplished more than half my route, winter fast approaching, -war existing between the most savage nations in the course of my -route, my provisions greatly diminished and but a poor prospect of an -additional supply, many of my men sick and the others not a little -disheartened, our success in this arduous undertaking very doubtful, -just upon the borders of the haunts of civilized men, about to launch -into an unknown wilderness--for ours was the first canoe that had ever -crossed this portage--were reasons sufficient to dispossess my breast -of contentment and ease. But now we have accomplished every wish, -peace reigns throughout the vast extent, we have returned thus far on -our voyage without the loss of a single man, and hope soon to be -blessed with the society of our relations and friends. - -The river this morning was covered with ice, which continued floating -all day; the shores were still barricaded with it. - -_Apr. 11th._ Although it snowed very hard, we brought over both boats -and descended the river to the [Pike's] island at the entrance of the -St. Peters. I sent to the chiefs and informed them I had something to -communicate to them. Fils de Pinchow immediately waited on me, and -informed me that he would provide a place for the purpose. About -sundown I was sent for and introduced into the council-house, where I -found a great many chiefs of the Sussitongs, Gens des Feuilles, and -Gens du Lac. The Yanctongs had not yet come down. They were all -waiting for my arrival. There were about 100 lodges, or 600 people; we -were saluted on our crossing the river with ball, as usual. The -council-house was two large lodges, capable of containing 300 men. In -the upper were 40 chiefs, and as many pipes set against the poles, -alongside of which I had the Sauteur's pipes arranged. I then informed -them in short detail of my transactions with the Sauteurs; but my -interpreters were not capable of making themselves understood. I was -therefore obliged to omit mentioning every particular relative to the -rascal who fired on my sentinel, and to the scoundrel who broke the -Fols Avoins' canoes and threatened my life. The interpreters, however, -informed them that I wanted some of their principal chiefs to go to -St. Louis; and that those who thought proper might descend to the -prairie [Prairie du Chien], where we would give them more explicit -information. They all smoked out of the Sauteurs' pipes, excepting -three, who were painted black and who were some of those who lost -their relations last winter. I invited Fils de Pinchow and the son of -Killeur Rouge to come over and sup with me; when Mr. Dickson and -myself endeavored to explain what I intended to have said to them, -could I have made myself understood; that at the Prairie we would have -all things explained; that I was desirous of making a better report of -them than Capt. [Meriwether] Lewis could do from their treatment of -him. The former of those savages was the person who remained around my -post all last winter, and treated my men so well; they endeavored to -excuse their people, etc. - -_Apr. 12th._ Embarked early. Although my interpreter had been -frequently up the river, he could not tell me where the cave spoken of -by Carver could be found; we carefully sought for it, but in -vain.[III-30] At the Indian village a few miles above [read below: see -note 72, p. 74] St. Peters we were about to pass a few lodges, but -on receiving a very particular invitation to come on shore, we landed -and were received in a lodge kindly; they presented us sugar, etc. I -gave the proprietor a dram, and was about to depart, when he demanded -a kettle of liquor; on being refused, and after I had left the shore, -he told me that he did not like the arrangements and that he would go -to war this summer. I directed the interpreter to tell him that if I -returned to the St. Peters with the troops I would settle that affair -with him. On our arrival at the St. Croix, I found Petit Corbeau -[Little Raven: see note 2, p. 85] with his people, and Messrs. -Frazer and Wood. We had a conference, when Petit Corbeau made many -apologies for the misconduct of his people; he represented to us the -different manners in which his young warriors had been inducing him -to go to war; that he had been much blamed for dismissing his party -last fall, but that he was determined to adhere as far as lay in his -power to our instructions; that he thought it most prudent to remain -here and restrain the warriors. He then presented me with a beaver -robe and pipe, and his message to the general, that he was determined -to preserve peace, and make the road clear; also, a remembrance of his -promised medal. I made him a reply calculated to confirm him in his -good intentions, and assured him that he should not be the less -remembered by his father, although not present. - -I was informed that notwithstanding the instruction of his license and -my particular request, Murdoch Cameron [see note 64, p. 66] had -taken liquor and sold it to the Indians on the river St. Peters, and -that his partner below had been equally imprudent. I pledged myself to -prosecute them according to law; for they have been the occasion of -great confusion and of much injury to the other traders. - -This day we met a canoe of Mr. Dickson's loaded with provision, under -the charge of Mr. Anderson, brother of Mr. [George] Anderson at Leech -Lake. He politely offered me any provision he had on board, for which -Mr. Dickson had given me an order; but not now being in want I did not -accept of any. This day, for the first time, I observed the trees -beginning to bud, and indeed the climate seemed to have changed very -materially since we passed the Falls of St. Anthony. - -_Sunday, Apr. 13th._ We embarked after breakfast. Messrs. Frazer and -Wood accompanied me. Wind strong ahead. They outrowed us--the first -boat or canoe we met with on the voyage able to do it; but then they -were double-manned and light. Arrived at the band of Aile Rouge [Red -Wing: see note 67, p. 69] at two o'clock, where we were saluted as -usual. - -We had a council, when he spoke with more detestation of the conduct -of the rascals at the mouth of the St. Peters than any man I had yet -heard. He assured me, speaking of the fellow who had fired on my -sentinel and threatened to kill me, that if I thought it requisite, he -should be killed; but as there were many chiefs above with whom he -wished to speak, he hoped I would remain one day, when all the Sioux -would be down, and I might have the command of a thousand men of them; -that I would probably think it no honor, but that the British used to -flatter them they were proud of having them for soldiers. I replied in -general terms, and assured him it was not for the conduct of two or -three rascals that I meant to pass over all the good treatment I had -received from the Sioux nation; but that in general council I would -explain myself. That as to the scoundrel who fired at my sentinel, had -I been at home the Sioux nation would never have been troubled with -him, for I would have killed him on the spot; but that my young men -did not do it, apprehensive that I would be displeased. I then gave -him the news of the Sauteurs, etc.; that as to remaining one day, it -would be of no service; that I was much pressed to arrive below, as my -general expected me, my duty called me, and the state of my provision -demanded the utmost expedition; that I would be happy to oblige him, -but my men must eat. He replied that, Lake Pepin being yet shut with -ice, if I went on and encamped on the ice it would not get me -provision; that he would send out all his young men the next day; and -that if the other bands did not arrive he would depart the day after -with me. In short, after much talk, I agreed to remain one day, -knowing that the lake was closed and that we could proceed only nine -miles if we went. - -This appeared to give general satisfaction. I was invited to different -feasts, and entertained at one by a person whose father had been -enacted a chief by the Spaniards. At this feast I saw a man called by -the French Roman Nose [Nez de Corbeau[III-31]], and by the Indians Wind -that Walks, who was formerly the second chief of the Sioux; but being -the cause of the death of one of the traders, seven years since, he -voluntarily relinquished that dignity, and has frequently requested to -be given up to the whites. But he was now determined to go to St. -Louis and deliver himself up, where he said they might put him to -death. His long repentance and the great confidence of the nation in -him would perhaps protect him from a punishment which the crime -merited. But as the crime was committed long before the United States -assumed its authority, and as no law of theirs could affect it, unless -it were ex post facto and had a retrospective effect, I conceived it -would certainly be dispunishable[III-32] now. I did not think proper, -however, to so inform him. I here received a letter from Mr. -Rollett,[III-33] partner of Mr. Cameron, with a present of some brandy, -coffee, and sugar. I hesitated about receiving those articles from the -partner of the man I intended to prosecute: their amount being -trifling, however, I accepted of them, offering him pay. I assured him -that the prosecution arose from a sense of duty, and not from any -personal prejudice. My canoe did not come up, in consequence of the -head wind. Sent out two men in a canoe to set fishing-lines; the canoe -overset, and had it not been for the timely assistance of the savages, -who carried them into their lodges, undressed them, and treated them -with the greatest humanity and kindness, they must inevitably have -perished. At this place I was informed that the rascal spoken of as -having threatened my life had actually cocked his gun to shoot me from -behind the hills, but was prevented by the others. - -_Apr. 14th._ Was invited to a feast by Roman Nose. His conversation -was interesting, and shall be detailed hereafter. The other Indians -had not yet arrived. Messrs. Wood, Frazer, and myself ascended a high -hill called the Barn [or La Grange; see note 68, p. 70], from which -we had a view of Lake Pepin, of the valley through which the -Mississippi by numerous channels wound itself to the St. Croix, the -Cannon river, and the lofty hills on each side. - -_Apr. 15th._ Arose very early and embarked about sunrise, much to the -astonishment of the Indians, who were entirely prepared for the -council when they heard I had put off. However, after some -conversation with Mr. Frazer, they acknowledged that it was agreeably -to what I had said, that I would sail early, and that they could not -blame me. I was very positive in my word, for I found it by far the -best way to treat the Indians. Aile Rouge had a beaver robe and pipe -prepared to present, but was obliged for the present to retain it. -Passed through Lake Pepin with my barges; the canoe being obliged to -lie by, did not come on. Stopped at a prairie on the right bank, -descending about nine miles below Lake Pepin. Went out to view some -hills which had the appearance of the old fortifications spoken of [by -Carver: see note of the Grand Encampment, p. 59]; but I will speak -more fully of them hereafter. In these hollows I discovered a flock of -elk; took out 15 men, but we were not able to kill any. Mr. Frazer -came up and passed on about two miles. We encamped together. Neither -Mr. Wood's nor my canoe arrived. Snowed considerably. - -_Apr. 16th._ Mr. Frazer's canoes and my boats sailed about one hour by -the sun. We waited some time, expecting Mr. Wood's barges and my -canoe; but hearing a gun fired just above our encampment, we were -induced to make sail. Passed Aile Prairie [Winona: note 57, p. 54], -also La Montagne qui Trompe a [Trempe a] L'eau, the prairie De Cross -[La Crosse], and encamped on the W. shore [at Brownsville], a few -hundred yards below where I had encamped on the [11th] day of -September, in ascending. Killed a goose flying. Shot at some pigeons -at our camp, and was answered from behind an island with two guns; we -returned them, and were replied to by two more. This day the trees -appeared in bloom. Snow might still be seen on the sides of the hills. -Distance 75 miles. - -_Apr. 17th._ Put off pretty early and arrived at Wabasha's band at -eleven o'clock, where I [was] detained all day for him [at Upper Iowa -river]; but he alone of all the hunters remained out all night. Left -some powder and tobacco for him. The Sioux presented me with a kettle -of boiled meat and a deer. I here received information that the Puants -had killed some white men below. Mr. Wood's and my canoe arrived. - -_Apr. 18th._ Departed from our encampment very early. Stopped to -breakfast at the Painted Rock. Arrived at Prairie Des Cheins at two -o'clock, and were received by crowds on the bank. Took up my quarters -at Mr. Fisher's. My men received a present of one barrel of pork from -Mr. Campbell, a bag of biscuit, 20 loaves of bread, and some meat from -Mr. Fisher. A Mr. Jearreau, from Cahokia, is here, who embarks -to-morrow for St. Louis. I wrote to General Wilkinson by him.[III-34] I -was called on by a number of chiefs, Reynards, Sioux of the Des Moyan -[Des Moines river], etc. The Winebagos were here intending, as I was -informed, to deliver some of the murderers to me. Received a great -deal of news from the States and Europe, both civil and military. - -_Apr. 19th._ Dined at Mr. Campbell's in company with Messrs. Wilmot, -Blakely, Wood, Rollet, Fisher, Frazer, and Jearreau. Six canoes -arrived from the upper part of St. Peters, with the Yanctong chiefs -from the head of that river. Their appearance was indeed savage, much -more so than any nation I have yet seen. Prepared my boat for sail. -Gave notice to the Puants that I had business to do with them the next -day. A band of the Gens Du Lac arrived. Took into my pay as -interpreter Mr. Y. [read J.] Reinville. - -_Sunday, Apr. 20th._ Held a council with the Puant chiefs, and -demanded of them the murderers of their nation;[III-35] they required -till to-morrow to consider it. I made a written demand of the -magistrates to take depositions concerning the late murders.[III-36] Had -a private conversation with Wabasha. - -This afternoon they had a great game of the cross on the prairie, -between the Sioux on the one side, and the Puants and Reynards on the -other. The ball is made of some hard substance and covered with -leather; the cross-sticks are round and net-work, with handles of -three feet long. The parties being ready, and bets agreed upon, -sometimes to the amount of some thousand dollars, the goals are set up -on the prairie at the distance of half a mile. The ball is thrown up -in the middle, and each party strives to drive it to the opposite -goal; when either party gains the first rubber, which is driving it -quick round the post, the ball is again taken to the center, the -ground changed, and the contest renewed; and this is continued until -one side gains four times, which decides the bet. It is an interesting -sight to see two or three hundred naked savages contending on the -plain who shall bear off the palm of victory; as he who drives the -ball round the goal is much shouted at by his companions. It sometimes -happens that one catches the ball in his racket, and depending on his -speed endeavors to carry it to the goal; when he finds himself too -closely pursued he hurls it with great force and dexterity to an -amazing distance, where there are always flankers of both parties -ready to receive it; it seldom touches the ground, but is sometimes -kept in the air for hours before either party can gain the victory. In -the game which I witnessed the Sioux were victorious--more, I believe, -from the superiority of their skill in throwing the ball than by their -swiftness, for I thought the Puants and Reynards the swiftest runners. - -_Apr. 21st._ Was sent for by La Feuille, and had a long and -interesting conversation with him, in which he spoke of the general -jealousy of his nation toward their chiefs; and said that although he -knew it might occasion some of the Sioux displeasure, he did not -hesitate to declare that he looked on Nez Corbeau [otherwise Raven -Nose and Roman Nose] as the man of most sense in their nation, and he -believed it would be generally acceptable if he was reinstated in his -rank. Upon my return I was sent for by Red Thunder,[III-37] chief of the -Yanctongs, the most savage band of the Sioux. He was prepared with the -most elegant pipes and robes I ever saw, and shortly declared, "That -white blood had never been shed in the village of the Yanctongs, even -when rum was permitted; that Mr. Murdoch Cameron arrived at his -village last autumn; that he invited him to eat, gave him corn as a -bird; that Cameron informed him of the prohibition of rum, and was the -only person who afterward sold it in the village." After this I had a -council with the Puants. Spent the evening with Mr. Wilmot, one of -the best informed and most gentlemanly men in the place. - -_Apr. 22d._ Held a council with the Sioux and Puants, the latter of -whom delivered up their [British] medals and flags. Prepared to depart -to-morrow. - -_Apr. 23d._ After closing my accounts, etc., at half past twelve -o'clock we left the Prairie; at the lower end of it were saluted by 17 -lodges of the Puants. Met a barge, by which I received a letter from -my lady. Further on met one batteau and one canoe of traders. Passed -one trader's camp. Arrived at Mr. Dubuque's at [mouth of Catfish -Creek, at] ten o'clock at night; found some traders encamped at the -entrance with 40 or 50 Indians; obtained some information from Mr. D., -and requested him to write me on certain points. After we had boiled -our victuals, I divided my men into four watches and put off, wind -ahead. Observed for the first time the half-formed leaves on the -trees. - -_Apr. 24th._ In the morning we used our oars until ten o'clock, and -then floated while breakfasting. At this time two barges, one bark, -and two wooden canoes passed us under full sail; by one of which I -sent back a letter to Mr. Dubuque that I had forgotten to deliver. -Stopped at dark to cook supper; after which, rowed under the windward -shore, expecting we could make headway with four oars; but were blown -on the lee shore in a few moments, when all hands were summoned, and -we again with difficulty made to windward, came-to, placed one sentry -on my bow, and all hands beside went to sleep. It rained, and before -morning the water overflowed my bed in the bottom of the boat, having -no cover or any extra accommodations, as it might have retarded my -voyage. The wind very hard ahead. - -_Apr. 25th._ Obliged to unship our mast to prevent its rolling -overboard with the swell. Passed the first Reynard village [near head -of Rock River rapids on the Iowan side] at twelve o'clock; counted 18 -lodges. Stopped at the prairie in descending on the left, about the -middle of the rapids, where there is a beautiful cove or harbor -[Watertown, Rock Island Co., Ill.]. There were three lodges of Indians -here, but none of them came near us. Shortly after we had left this, -observed a barge under sail, with the United States flag, which upon -our being seen put to shore on the Big [now Rock] Island, about three -miles above Stony [Rock] river, where I also landed. It proved to be -Capt. Many[III-38] of the Artillerists, who was in search of some Osage -prisoners among the Sacs and Reynards. He informed me that at the -[large Sac] village of Stony Point [near the mouth of Rock river] the -Indians evinced a strong disposition to commit hostilities; that he -was met at the mouth of the river by an old Indian, who said that all -the inhabitants of the village were in a state of intoxication, and -advised him to go up alone. This advice, however, he had rejected. -That when they arrived there they were saluted by the appellation of -the bloody Americans who had killed such a person's father, such a -person's mother, brother, etc. The women carried off the guns and -other arms, and concealed them. That he then crossed the river -opposite the village, and was followed by a number of Indians with -pistols under their blankets. That they would listen to no conference -whatever relating to the delivery of the prisoners, but demanded -insolently why he wore a plume in his hat, declared that they looked -on it as a mark of war, and immediately decorated themselves with -their raven's feathers, worn only in cases of hostility. We regretted -that our orders would not permit of our punishing the scoundrels, as -by a _coup de main_ we might easily have carried the village. Gave -Capt. Many a note of introduction to Messrs. Campbell, Fisher, Wilmot, -and Dubuque, and every information in my power. We sat up late -conversing. - -_Apr. 26th._ Capt. Many and myself took breakfast and embarked; wind -directly ahead, and a most tremendous swell to combat, which has -existed ever since we left the prairie. Capt. Many under full sail. -Descended by all the sinuosity of the shore, to avoid the strength of -the wind and force of the waves. Indeed I was confident I could sail -much faster up than we could possibly make down. Encamped on Grant's -prairie, where we had encamped Aug. 25th when ascending. There was one -Indian and family present, to whom I gave some corn. - -_Sunday, Apr. 27th._ It cleared off during the night. We embarked -early and came from eight or ten leagues above the river Iowa to the -[U. S. agricultural] establishment at the lower Sac village [at -Nauvoo, Ill., see Aug. 20th, 1805] by sundown, a distance of nearly 48 -leagues. Here I met with Messrs. Maxwell and Blondeau; took the -deposition of the former on the subject of the Indians' intoxication -at this place, for they were all drunk. They had stolen a horse from -the establishment, and offered to bring him back for liquor, but -laughed at them when offered a blanket and powder. Passed two canoes -and two barges. At the establishment received two letters from Mrs. -Pike. Took with us Corporal Eddy and the other soldier whom Capt. Many -had left. Rowed with four oars all night. A citizen took passage with -me. - -_Apr. 28th._ In the morning passed a wintering-ground where, from -appearance, there must have been at least seven or eight different -establishments. At twelve o'clock arrived at the French house -[Hurricane Settlement] mentioned in our voyage up, Aug. 16th [see note -13, that date]. Here we landed our citizen; his name was [Blank], -and he belonged to the settlement on Copper river. He informed me -there were about 25 families in the settlement. - -Stopped at some islands [note 12, Aug. 15th] about ten miles above -Salt river, where there were pigeon-roosts, and in about 15 minutes my -men had knocked on the head and brought on board 298. I had frequently -heard of the fecundity of this bird [_Ectopistes migratorius_[III-39]], -and never gave credit to what I then thought inclined to the -marvelous; but really the most fervid imagination cannot conceive -their numbers. Their noise in the woods was like the continued roaring -of the wind, and the ground may be said to have been absolutely -covered with their excrement. The young ones which we killed were -nearly as large as the old; they could fly about ten steps, and were -one mass of fat; their craws were filled with acorns and the wild pea. -They were still reposing on their nests, which were merely small -bunches of sticks joined, with which all the small trees were covered. - -Met four canoes of the Sacs, with wicker baskets filled with young -pigeons. They made motions to exchange them for liquor, to which I -returned the back of my hand. Indeed those scoundrels had become so -insolent, through the instigation of the traders, that nothing but the -lenity of our government and humanity for the poor devils could have -restrained me on my descent from carrying some of their towns by -surprise, which I was determined to have done had the information of -their firing on Capt. Many proved to have been correct. - -Put into the mouth of Salt river to cook supper, after which, although -raining, we put off and set our watches; but so violent a gale and -thunderstorm came on about twelve o'clock that we put ashore. -Discovered that one of my sleigh-dogs was missing. - -_Apr. 29th._ In the morning still raining, and wind up the river; -hoisted sail and returned to the mouth of the river, but neither here -nor on the shore could we find my dog. This was no little -mortification, as it broke the match, whose important services I had -already experienced, after having brought them so near home. We -continued on until twelve o'clock, when it ceased raining for a little -time, and we put ashore for breakfast. Rowed till sundown, when I set -the watch. Night fine and mild. - -_Apr. 30th._ By daylight found ourselves at the Portage de Sioux. I -here landed Captain Many's two men, and ordered them across by land to -the cantonment [Belle Fontaine, on the Missouri]. As I had never seen -the village, I walked up and through it; there are not more than 21 -houses at furthest, which are built of square logs. Met Lieut. -Hughes[III-40] about four miles above St. Louis,[III-41] with more than 20 -Osage prisoners, conveying them to the cantonment on the Missouri; he -informed me my friends were all well. Arrived about twelve o'clock at -the town, after an absence of eight months and 22 days. - -FOOTNOTES: - -[III-1] It is simple justice to Pike to state here that, in making this -widely erroneous statement, he reflected common report of his day, and -that he elsewhere himself qualifies the assertion. Thus, in his -general review of the Mississippi (which in the orig. ed. formed Doc. -No. 18, p. 41 _seq._ of the App. to Part 1), he says of the Leech Lake -branch: "This is rather considered as the main source, although the -Winipeque [read Winnibigoshish] branch is navigable the greatest -distance." If the volume of waters collected by Leech l. and then -contributed to the Mississippi were made the criterion, the true -Itascan source might have to look to its laurels. Deferring other -considerations to a more convenient connection, we may here confine -attention to the Leech Lake system. The lake itself is much the -largest body of water in the Mississippi basin above Mille Lacs, much -exceeding in size Lake Winnibigoshish, which itself much exceeds Lake -Cass. These three are the largest reservoirs of the whole drainage -area whose waters unite at the junction of the Leech Lake branch with -the main stream. This area, taken down to Pokegama falls, is about 80 -m. from E. to W. and 50 from N. to S.; its content is more than a -thousand lakes and rivers, few of which have been named. These are -quite clearly divided into two main sets, namely, those of the Leech -Lake system on the one hand, and all the rest on the other. Leech l. -is not much smaller than Red l. (of a different system); its greatest -diameter in one direction is over 20 m.; its figure is extremely -irregular, giving a shore-line said to be of about 160 m. length, with -9 principal salient re-entrances and 6 large bays; the feeders, large -and small, are 25-30 in number. The "fond du lac" is at that S. W. -place where the waters of Kabekona and other lakes discharge by the -Kabekona r., in Sect. 9, T. 142, R. 31, 5th M. This series affords, -with several portages, a tolerably direct approach to Lake Itasca, -which lies at an air-line distance of about 25 m. nearly due W. North -of the mouth of the Kabekona, in Sect. 9, T. 143, of the same R. and -M., the Kapukasagitowa, Pikesagidowag, or Bukesagidowag r. falls in -from the N. W. This point is only 7 m. directly S. of the southernmost -part of Cass l., and a chain of 10 small lakes here lies between Cass -and Leech, offering a waterway with some portages. Two of these small -lakes are Moss and Shiba of Schoolcraft; two others of them are his -Kapuka Sagitowa lakes. Further E. on the N. shore of Leech l. a river -falls in from the N. in Sect. 14, T. 144, R. 30. This is Carp r. of -Schoolcraft, draining from a chain of small lakes which approach the -Mississippi itself in that portion of its course which runs from Cass -to Winnibigoshish l. The N. E. extremity of Leech l., called Rush l. -by Schoolcraft and Pickering bay by Nicollet, reaches within 4 m. -(air-line) of Lake Winnibigoshish; there is a small lake between, -named Lake Duponceau by Nicollet, but now known as Portage l., from -the function indicated by this name. In fact it is easier to go from -Winnibigoshish over into Leech than from Cass over into the same. -Along the S. W., S., S. E., and E. shores of Leech l. is a succession -of affluents, some of the larger of which respectively establish -waterways of communication with Crow Wing r., with Pine r., and with -Willow r. The largest of these Leech l. tributaries is Kwiwisens or -Boy r., which offers by its system of lakes and portages the most -direct route by way of Willow r. to Sandy l. Some of the lakes along -this line are by Nicollet named Hassler, Gauss, Deluot, Eccleston, -Brule, and Rosati. One of the communications with Pine r. is made by -Sandy r., which falls into Leech l. from the S. (The Crow Wing -connections are noticed elsewhere in detail.) Leech l. discharges by -Leech Lake r. near its N. E. extremity, the outlet being in Sect. 29, -T. 144, R. 28, 5th M. The discharge is now controlled by a dam which, -like the similar structures at the outlet of Lake Winnibigoshish and -elsewhere, is designed to utilize the lakes as artificial reservoirs -to regulate the flow of the Mississippi according to the requirements -for navigation. Leech Lake r. is bowed into an arc whose chord is 16 -m. long; Mud l. lies in its course, as already said. The principal -projection of land into Leech l. from the N. is the well-known -Otter-tail pt.; opposite this, from the south, is Big pt.; continuous -with which, by a narrow isthmus, is a very extensive peninsula of -remarkable form, something like a badly shaped anchor or a distorted -letter T. This Tau-formed peninsula is the best known and most -historic place about the lake, as the site of a Chippewa village and -various other establishments, of which more anon. There are several -islands in Leech l.; the largest is Bear or Mukwa isl. (Macuwa of -Beltrami); two others are Pelican and Goose. Leech l. derives its -English name from the F. Lac Sang Sue, or L. aux Sangsues, originally -bestowed in compliment to the sanguisugent annelids with which it was -supposed to be peculiarly favored, by the Chippewas, who conveyed -their meaning in the voluble vocable Kasagaskwadjimekang. - -[III-2] Voy. en Egypte et en Syrie, etc., 2 vols., 8vo, Paris, 1787; tr. -Eng., London, 1787, etc. Constantin Francois Chasseboeuf, Comte de -Volney, b. Craon, Anjou, Feb. 3d, 1757, d. Paris, Apr. 25th, 1820, is -best known in letters by his celebrated work, commonly called -"Volney's Ruins," _i. e._, Les Ruines ou Meditations sur les -Revolutions des Empires, etc., orig. ed. 1791, numberless trans. and -eds. down to the present time. The illustrious author was the peer of -Voltaire or Paine in philosophy and religion, and underwent the usual -vicissitudes of free-thinkers of his time, from the prison to the -peerage. His intellect was clear and profound, his erudition vast and -varied; so they called him an "infidel"--whatever they may have meant -by that--and having given him the name would have hanged him had he -been hangable. His researches were chiefly in the fields of history, -geography, archaeology, linguistics, statecraft, and priestcraft, all -of which he illuminated to the great inconvenience of political and -ecclesiastical demagogues. _Nullum tetigit quod non ornavit_; the -clergy, however, he adorned with a touch that Voltaire himself might -have envied. Count Volney was in the U. S. in 1795-6-7; his -controversy with the meritorious but somewhat obtuse Priestley, on the -unquestionable unorthodoxy of his Ruins, brought his more formal -scientific works into prominence, and accentuated the fame of his most -imperishable treatise. Cheap editions of the Ruins abound, usually -including the tract originally entitled La Loi Naturelle; this is a -little catechism designed by a great philosopher to kindly help little -fools out of some of their folly; it is quite worthy to rank with -Paine's Age of Reason. Volney's complete works were edited by A. -Bossange, 8 vols., Paris, 1820-26. Pike was in good company on the 3d, -while he nursed his sore feet. - -[III-3] This clerk is named Roussand beyond, Feb. 9th. He is "a Monsr. -Boussant" in the early text, 1807, p. 40. - -[III-4] We have no hint of the route by which the main party reached -Leech l. after Pike first left them on the 26th of Jan., unless one is -conveyed in the statement that Miller _returned_ with a supply of -provisions for them. That would seem to imply that they followed -Pike's trail, and came to Leech l. by a route the same as his, or one -not materially different. This is in fact what they did: see note -51, p. 142. The shorter way would have been that Willow River -traverse indicated in note 1, p. 153. What seems to have been a usual -route in former days is clearly indicated on Nicollet's map. Starting -from Sandy l. it struck W. to Willow r. and went up this to Rosati and -Brule lakes, whence by portage over to Eccleston or Deluot l., and so -to the Boy's River connection, continued through Gauss and Hassler -lakes. All these have different names now, and I cannot speak with -confidence in the new nomenclature. Among the lakes of Nicollet's -series appear to be those now called Big Rice, Thunder, and Boy. - -[III-5] This letter formed Doc. No. 5, on p. 14 of the App. to Pt. 1 of -the orig. ed. It is given beyond, together with Mr. M'Gillis' reply; -which latter was Doc. No. 6, p. 17 of the same App. in the orig. ed. - -[III-6] This is the first intimation we have that Pike is not already at -the west end, or at any rate on the west side of Leech l. He certainly -has told us that he "crossed the lake 12 miles" to reach Mr. M'Gillis' -house, where he is now quartered. The only place marked on Pike's map -is on the W. side, with the legend "N. W. C^o. Ho. Lat. 47 deg. 16' 18" -N." The position of this seems to have been near Sugar pt., and to be -the same as that marked "Old N. W. House" on Lt. James Allen's map -facing p. 76 of Schoolcraft's Rep. pub. 1834. There have been various -trading-houses at the same and different points about Leech l., -simultaneously and successively. In 1832, according to Schoolcraft's -large map in the work just said, there was a "Tr. Post" on the E. side -of the lake, between the outlet and Boy's r., but the principal one -was on the Tau-formed peninsula, and was a post of the Am. Fur Co. -Schoolcraft was camped there July 16th, 1832. This place was then also -the site of the Chippewa village of Gueule Platte or Flat Mouth, a -chieftain of whom Pike has something to say soon, and of whom -Nicollet, who met him there in 1836, has told us somewhat, Rep. 1843, -p. 61 _seq._ - -[III-7] The Sweet of the above paragraph is elsewhere named by Pike as -Wiscoup and Le Sucre, first chief of a Red Lake band of Chippewas; The -Burnt, as Oole and La Brule, for which latter phrase I suppose Le -Brule might be preferred by some fastidious persons. The Buck is Iaba -Waddik of Schoolcraft, Summary, etc., 1855, p. 144. The Sweet was -probably not so named from any such personal peculiarity as would have -singled him out among all Indians of whatever tribe, but with -reference in some way to the concrete juice of the sugar-maple, _Acer -saccharinum_, upon which he fed: _cf._ Sugar pt., a place-name in this -vicinity. This is evidently the poetical case of "sweets to The -Sweet"--not of _saccharum per se_. The scholarly Anglojibway, Hon. W. -W. Warren, who should know best how to spell Chippewa words of any -author I have read, gives the name as Weeshcoob. This chief had great -character, and a long career. For some of his exploits which became -historical, see Minn. Hist. Coll., V. 1885, pp. 231, 376, 452, 454, -458--latter with esp. ref. to Pike. - -[III-8] Haut Lac aux Cedres Rouges of the French, Upper Red Cedar l. of -the English, in distinction from the one of like name much further -down the Mississippi, near Aitkin: see note 47, p. 135. Pike is -careless about the names, and calls both lakes Red Cedar, or Cedar -without further qualification. The valuable species of _Juniperus_, -commonly known as "cedar" or "red cedar," is not a very abundant tree -in N. Minnesota, and its prevalence about each of these lakes -duplicated their designation. They are too far apart, luckily, for any -confusion to have ever arisen. Pike's description of Up. R. C. l. is -not good, and his map is so far out as to omit entirely the entrance -of the Mississippi into this lake; for what he delineates as and -mistook for the entrance of the main river is merely the discharge of -the Turtle River chain of lakes from the Beltramian or so-called -Julian source of the Mississippi, which falls in at the extreme N. -border of the lake. Thus, what the text means by saying "from the -entrance of the Mississippi to the streight is called six miles," is -the distance from the mouth of Turtle r. to the strait which divides -off Pike's bay from the rest of Cass l.; "thence to the south end," -etc., is the length of Pike's bay; the "bay at the entrance" of the -supposed Mississippi, _i. e._, of Turtle r., means the general recess -of Cass l. on the N.; and finally, the "large point," given as 21/2 m. -"from the north side," is the point of Colcaspi or Grand isl., which -is almost a peninsula, and which marks off Allen's bay from the rest -of Cass l. With this much by way of comment on Pike, we will look -further at this interesting body of water, which I have lately crossed -twice. Its first English name, after the ones above given, was Lake -Cassina, bestowed by Schoolcraft in 1820, in honor of Governor and -General Lewis Cass (b. Exeter, N. H., Oct. 9th, 1782, d. Detroit, -Mich., June 17th, 1866), leader of the expedition which made its -nearest approach to the true source of the Miss. r., in July of that -year. Their camp was on the N. shore, close by the mouth of Turtle r., -on the W. side of that mouth, directly opposite the site of the N. W. -Co. Ho. where Pike now is. The name "Cassina Lake" stands on the -Schlcr. map of the 1820 Cass exped.; item, "Cassina L." is on Long's -map, 1823; the adj. Cassinian also occurs in Schlcr. and elsewhere; -but the latter afterward clipped the name to Cass, and it has become -fixed in this form--the same as that of the county later dedicated -appropriately to this eminent statesman and soldier. The Schlcr. map -of 1820 also lays down the Turtle River system with approximate -accuracy, and on this map was first traced the course of the -Mississippi to Lake Itasca. This had not then received its present -name, but stands there as "L. Labeish," _i. e._, Lac La Biche, or Lac -a la Biche, translating the Chippewa Omoshkos Sogiagon, and translated -Elk l. in English. The main defect of the 1820 map was in laying down -the Itascan source to the N. W. instead of to the S. W. of Cass -l.--thus really on the line of the Turtle River source. This mistake -was corrected in 1832, the year that Schoolcraft's party were guided -to Lake Itasca itself by the Chippewa chief, Ozawindib or Yellow Head. -Schoolcraft's nomenclature, as far as possible, was accepted by the -greatest geographer who ever saw the source of the Mississippi, and -Nicollet's example in this respect has been generally followed. Cass -is a beautiful lake, the third largest in the drainage-area of the -uppermost Mississippi, being exceeded in size only by Winnibigoshish -and Leech. The greatest length is nearly meridional; including Pike's -bay it is 93/4 m.; the greatest breadth is almost due E. and W.; -including Allen's bay it is 71/2 m. In position with reference to the -5th meridian (the only one with which we have to do in this note), the -Range line of townships 30-31, and the Township line of 145-146, -decussate at right angles in the center of the lake, just off the E. -shore of Colcaspi isl. The body of water thus occupies portions of -four townships. In figure Cass l. is more irregular than Lake -Winnibigoshish, less so than Leech l. Pike's bay, on the S., is almost -shut off from the rest of the lake by a long, narrow peninsula which -stretches nearly across from E. to W., leaving but a very narrow -thoroughfare. Pike's bay is of rounded form, about 3 m. in any -diameter. Allen's bay, on the W., is almost equally well marked off by -Colcaspi isl.; it is 2-1/3 m. long, with an average width of over a -mile, and includes two small islands, named Elm and Garden. Red Cedar -isl. lies in the S. E. part of the main body of water; but the most -conspicuous feature of the lake is the island best known as Grand or -Colcaspi. The latter curious name is one of those verbal wind-eggs -which Schoolcraft was fond of hatching; he tells us it is compounded -of fragments of the names of "the three prior explorers," meaning Cass -and himself, 1820, and Pike, 1806. This Island of Ozawindib, as named -by Brower, 1894, is shaped like a blacksmith's anvil or molar tooth; -its greatest diameters, along conjugate diagonal axes, are 23/4 and 21/2 -m.; aside from its horns, the island would yield a square of about 11/4 -m. The Chippewa village of Ozawindib, where Schoolcraft was camped -July 10th and again July 15th--between which dates he went to Itasca -and back--was on the N. E. point of the anvil. I should advise -canoeists to give this point a wide berth; for a shoal runs far out -northward, and the birch-bark may thump on a stony bottom if there is -any sea. This shoal reaches out directly across the straightest -traverse from the inlet to the outlet of the Mississippi. Ozawindib -isl. is almost a peninsula in relation to the north shore of the lake, -but a canoe can generally be floated across the isthmus. I waded and -dragged my boat on going up, but on returning was obliged to make a -portage of a few paces, as the water had lowered. But even if it be -found a carrying-place, it is the shortest and best way across the -lake from the inlet of the Mississippi, either to its outlet or to the -inlet of Turtle r. The latter falls in at the extreme N. of the lake, -21/2 m. W. N. W. from the outlet of the Mississippi, in the N. E. 1/4 of -Sect. 18, T. 146, R. 30. Here came David Thompson in 1798, along the -usual traders' route from the Red River country, in part the then -supposed course of the Mississippi itself above Red Cedar l. Here, in -Roy's N. W. Co. House, on the E. or left bank, is Pike this 12th of -February, 1806. Here were Cass and Schoolcraft in 1820; here came -Beltrami in 1823, down this same Turtle r. from his Lake Julia, and so -from the Julian source of the Mississippi. A mission once stood here; -there is now an Indian village at a little distance westward. The -place may be recognized at a distance by a high ridge on the right or -W. bank; and on nearer approach by a stout post with historical -inscriptions, erected by Brower in August, 1894. About a mile up -Turtle r. expands into a lake, called Kichi by Nicollet in 1836, and -by error Kitihi, as on Brower's map of 1892. No other considerable -stream enters Cass l., excepting the Mississippi itself. The -Mississippi leaves the lake in a recess on the N. E. shore, easy to -find by good land-marks--notice a clump of trees on the right of the -outlet as you approach it, and a house on the first rising ground to -the left. The position is in the N. E. 1/4 of Sect. 21, T. 146, R. 30. -From this point the river flows nearly E. S. E. into Lake -Winnibigoshish (makes 2-2/3 m. of southing in 81/4 m. of easting--air-line -about 9 m.). The general course is about straight, but the reciprocal -bends are numerous, giving an actual course, as I should judge, of 163/4 -m., though they call it 18. This is Cass r. or Red Cedar r.--the most -beautiful part of the Mississippi--good flat water and plenty of it at -the lowest stages of canoeing, with a moderate current and no rapids, -shoals, or snags to speak of; also, good camping places all along on -the wooded points or knolls. The only tributary of this "interlaken" -course of the Mississippi is from the S., about halfway between Cass -and Winnibigoshish; being the discharge from Horn l. (Eshkabwaka l. of -Owen), 3/4 of a mile (direct) E. of the boundary between Itasca and -Beltrami cos., in the S. E. 1/4 of Sect. 30, T. 146, R. 29. - -Pike at Leech l. was the nearest he ever went to the true source of -the Mississippi--about 25 m. in an air-line E. of Lake Itasca. Pike at -Cass l. is further away from this goal, but he is on the course of the -great river. Having already noted the Leech Lake sub-basin, or what I -call the Pikean source, I will with the reader's indulgence indicate -the main features of the true Itascan or Nicolletian sub-basin. To -this end we will start together from Cass l. and paddle our own canoe -to Lake Itasca. The following observations are from my canoe voyage -from Deer River to Lake Itasca and return, Aug. 15th-Sept. 3d, 1894: - -The Mississippi enters Cass l. at the W. end of Allen's bay, by a -crooked =S=-shaped thoroughfare about a mile long, from the next lake -above. The inlet into Cass opens in the center of Sect. 29, T. 146, R. -31; the outlet from the other lake is in the N. W. 1/4 of the same -section. So close, in fact, are the two lakes, that at two places they -are only separated by 100 yards or less. At the northern one of these -short portages stands a dilapidated old chapel, once a mission-house, -and other buildings are scattered about, chiefly Chippewa cabins. I -could learn no name for this next lake, though it appears to be the -one Schoolcraft called Andrusia in 1855; but if so, the name has -lapsed. A letter before me from Hon. J. V. Brower, Itasca State Park -Commissioner, dated St. Paul, Sept. 15th, 1894, says: "The beautiful -body of water situated upon Sects. 7, 8, 17, 18, 19, 20, 29, and 30, -T. 146, R. 31, 5th M., above Cass lake, and through which the -Mississippi takes its course, has this day been named by me Lake -Elliott Coues, as a slight recognition of your services to the public, -and for the purposes of a more accurate and correct geographical -description." This lake is 31/2 m. long by 11/4 m. in greatest breadth, -with its long axis meridional. The Mississippi runs across its S. end -about 3/4 of a mile from W. to E., the inlet being in the N. W. 1/4 of -Sect. 30 of the same T. and R. as the outlet. A trader's house is on -the N. side, in a Chippewa village. A winding course of the -Mississippi of 2 m. brings us to another lake, Pamitascodiac or -Tascodiac of Schoolcraft, and Vandermaelen of Nicollet. This is -hourglass-shaped, 21/4 m. long by about a mile across either bulb. The -Mississippi enters it at the N. and leaves it at the E., the inlet and -outlet being within half a mile of each other, in Sect. 25, T. 146, R. -32. For 2 or 3 m. above Lake Tascodiac canoeing is easy, through the -flat water of marsh and meadow land; but then begins the trouble which -hardly intermits thence to Lake Bemidji. The canoeist may as well put -on his rubber boots at the start and keep them on, for he will have to -wade most of the way and drag or shove his boat through almost -incessant rocky rapids, shoals, and snags. My canoe drew only about 3 -inches of water when my man and myself were overboard, yet we had -great difficulty in getting along at all without portaging. Where the -water is flat, it is shoal and snaggy; otherwise it is all "Metoswa" -rapids. The distance from Lake Tascodiac to Lake Bemidji is only 8 m. -in an air line, but this is the chord of a considerable arc the river -describes northward, which, with the minor bends around the wooded -points, makes, as I judge, about 131/2 m. of water-course. The people -call it 20 m., but that is because it is such a hard road to travel. -It took me a day and a quarter to make Bemidji from Elliott Coues; but -I did the same distance in less than one day coming down. Beltrami -calls this course "Demizimagua-maguen-sibi, or River of Lake -Traverse," II. p. 434--which reminds me to say that among the Indians -each section of the river between lakes takes the name of the lake -whence it flows. The Bemidji section of the Mississippi issues from -the lake of that name in the N. W. 1/4 of Sect. 2, T. 146, R. 33, near -the middle of the E. shore. This outlet is hidden in a maze of -bulrushes, and as there is no conspicuous landmark on shore it is not -easy to find. Lake Bemidji is a large body of water 51/2 m. long N. and -S., by 13/4 to 21/2 m. broad, of somewhat pyriform figure, lying athwart -the course of the Mississippi: whence the F. name Lac Traverse, which -we render Traverse, Travers, and Cross lake; Schl. named it Queen -Anne's l. in 1855. Among the Indian forms are Pamitchi, as -Schoolcraft; Pemidji, as Nicollet; also Bermiji, Permidji, etc., and -with an additional element Bemejigemug, Pamajiggermug, etc. The N. end -of Bemidji is only 21/2 m. from the S. end of Turtle l., so that the -Julian sources may be here easily reached by portage. From the outlet -as above described to the inlet is 23/4 m. on a S. W. course; for the -Mississippi enters at the extreme S. W. angle, in the N. W. 1/4 of Sect. -16, T. 146, R. 33. Here are some Chippewa cabins, and here is also the -lair of one of the ferocious blood-sucking parasites of the tribe of -Indian traders. The system only differs from robbery in name. For -instance, the squaw-man will sell you a whitefish for 10 cents a -pound. He bought that fish for two cents a pound from the Indian who -caught it, and he also paid for it in goods at his own price, probably -about five times their cost to him. Those old traders who were -satisfied to make 250 per cent. on prime cost were meek and lowly -philanthropists in comparison with some of their successors. A short -wide thoroughfare of about 40 rods leads directly from Bemidji into -Lake Irving, so named by Schoolcraft in 1832 after the facile writer, -and still so called. This is only 11/2 m. broad by 3/4 long, lying chiefly -in Sects. 16 and 17; the Mississippi comes directly across its short -axis from S. to N. The inlet is at the S. E. corner of Sect. 17. On -Nicollet's published map "L. Irving" appears out of place altogether, -on another stream. But that is a mere accident of cartography, for -which the admirable geographer is not responsible; he knew where Lake -Irving is as well as I do. Three short bends and then a straight -course of a mile bring us up the Mississippi to the mouth of a river -from the S., to be particularly noted for several reasons. It is the -largest remaining tributary of the Mississippi, and one of its sources -is a lake no more than 5 m. from Itasca itself. This river joins the -Mississippi in the S. E. of Sect. 20, T. 146, R. 33. Going up it we at -once fall upon the very small Lake Marquette; next, Lake La Salle -(Lasale on Nicollet's map), larger and hourglass-shaped; next, Lake -Plantagenet, a two-legged body of water, 23/4 m. long by 13/4 broad. The -first two were named in 1832 by Schoolcraft, who also said the largest -one was called Kubba Kunna, or Rest in the Path l.--these terms -becoming Rahbahkanna and Resting l. in Allen. Continuing through Lake -Plantagenet and up this "Plantagenian source" of the Mississippi, as -it has come to be known, we find that it forks in Sect. 21, T. 144, R. -34, at a direct distance of 7 or 8 m. from Lake Plantagenet. The fork -on our left as we go up takes us 5 or 6 m. further to Lake Naiwa, -called Neway l. by Nicollet, and recently renamed Lake George. -Alongside and emptying into this is Nicollet's L. Bowditch, lately -renamed L. Paine. These two are in Sects. 15, 19, 22, and 21, T. 143, -R. 34. Going up the other fork, we find in about 3 m. that it forks. -The fork on our left as we go up comes N. from a number of small -lakes, one of them lately become known as Lake Chenowagesic; and this -is probably to be considered the main course of the river we are now -on. The other fork comes from the west; if we follow it up we proceed -directly toward Lake Itasca, and find our stream heading in a lake -which occupies portions of Sects. 2 and 11, T. 143, R. 35. This is -Lake Assawa--Ossowa and Usawa of Schoolcraft, Usaw-way or Perch of -Allen, Assawe of Nicollet; also, Lake Alice of the Rand-McNally map -(Chicago, 1894), whose compilers adopted the names bestowed by a -certain unfortunate excursionist. Another name this unhappy person -gave this same lake is Elvira. It is historically of the greatest -possible interest, for from Lake Assawa did Schoolcraft's party -proceed by portage to discover Lake Itasca in 1832, and from it also -did Nicollet proceed by portage to Lake Itasca in 1836, and so on to -discover the actual source of the Mississippi, which Schoolcraft -missed in his hurry on that happy-go-lucky 13th of July. As to the -name which the whole stream thus sketched should bear, there may be -two opinions. Schoolcraft maps it with the legend "Plantagenian or -South Fork of the Mississippi," and makes the Assawa Lake fork the -main source, calling the Naiwa Lake fork by the name of this lake. -Nicollet names the main stream R. Laplace, after the celebrated -astronomer, as he did L. Bowditch after the translator of that -author's Mecanique Celeste; and he considers the main stream to be -that middle one which comes from the Chenowagesic l., furthest from -the S. (over the border of Hubbard Co., in fact). This view is -undoubtedly correct, and I, for one, should like to see Nicollet's -designation of Laplace r. stand. But the river is in fact called the -Naiwa, and this current designation will probably prevail. I observe -that our best maps in the present uncertainty omit any name, though -the Rand-McNally map legends "Schoolcraft R." (after Eastman's, 1855). -Should the main stream come to be known to geographers as the Naiwa, I -would suggest that its E. fork be called the East Naiwa, agreeably -with Schoolcraft's, 1832; and the other the West Naiwa. - -We return from this excursion up the Naiwa or Laplace r.--the -Plantagenian source of the Mississippi--and proceed up the latter from -the mouth of the former. We hold a due W. course on the whole for 51/2 -m. in an air-line, but on a zigzag with multitudinous minor -tortuosities, making the distance more than twice as far; part of the -way winding among wooded points, working our way over shoals and among -snags, to a point in the N. W. 1/4 of Sect. 28, T. 146, R. 34. Here the -small Allenoga r., on our right from the north, discharges from a -small, crooked lake which lies mainly in Sects. 16 and 21. Knowing no -name for this, I call it Cowhorn l., from its shape and from the -trivial circumstance of finding a horn stuck on a stake in the river. -We go on through a monotonous, swampy tract of reeds, rushes, wild -rice, and lily-pads, alternately approaching and receding from tamarac -clumps as the river winds about, for 21/2 m. further W. in an air-line, -and more than three times that distance in actual paddling, till we -reach some haying-meadows, and soon find the entrance of a notable -stream on our right, in the N. E. 1/4 of Sect. 25, T. 146, R. 35; this -is Pinidiwin r. (Pinnidiwin, Carnage, and De Soto r. of Schoolcraft, -Piniddiwin of Brower), through a lake about a mile wide, filled with a -fine crop of wild rice. Hence it is one of many lakes which are called -La Folle, Rice, or Manomin (Monomina on the Rand-McNally map); but it -had better keep the distinctive name of the river which flows through -it. I paddled up into Pinidiwin l., and was surprised at the volume of -water it discharged, as well as at the strength of its current. But -the river is a large, forked stream which drains a very extensive area -N. of the Mississippi. The volume of the Mississippi seemed diminished -nearly one-half above the mouth of this "Little Mississippi." The -course up the Mississippi is now S. W. to a point in the S. E. 1/4 of -Sect. 35, T. 146, R. 35; where, at a bend, it receives a sizable -tributary from the S. Nicollet charts this stream, but has no name for -it, and I know of none, excepting that suspicious "Hennepin R." which -appears on the same Rand-McNally map, so thoroughly vitiated by -countenancing the names given by a dishonest person. Hennepin r. rises -as far south as about the middle of T. 144, R. 35, and flows nearly -due northward; one of its tributaries comes from a certain Lake -Joliet, the name of which arose with the same trickster. Rounding the -bend here we go up N. W. into the middle of Sect. 28, T. 146, R. 35, -and turn S. W. to the corner of this section, on the property of Mr. -A. J. Jones, a _bona fide_ settler and cultivator of the soil. The -situation is also marked by a small creek (say Jones') which falls in -hard by from the W.; but it is more notable as a sort of "Great Bend" -of the Mississippi; for here is the place where, our course thus far -having been on the whole westward, we turn quite abruptly southward to -make for Lake Itasca, distant about 14 m. as the crow flies, but at -least twice as far as that by the way we paddle. It has been good flat -water, with no obstructions to speak of, for many miles back; but a -little distance above Jones' place we come to rocky rapids for half a -mile, reminding us of our experiences below Lake Bemidji. I do not -think that these, but that some of those higher up, are the rapids -where Allen's boat was wrecked on the 15th of July, 1832, though -Schoolcraft talks of having come "32" m. from Itasca on the 14th, -before the accident. As we proceed, other obstacles offer; snags -abound, the Mississippi becomes in places too shallow to float a -canoe, and in others bushes begin to meet across the channel, or -fallen logs require to be chopped out of the way. We pass an -insignificant creek on the right, and then soon sight quite an -imposing pine-clad ridge on the left. Here, in the S. W. 1/4 of Sect. -19, T. 145, R. 35, is the mouth of a creek on the left. This is marked -on Schoolcraft's map "Cano R.", _i. e._, Canot or Canoe r., also Ocano -(Au Canot), and Chemaun r. It is charted by Nicollet, without any -name. It has been described by Brower as Andrus cr., is on Eastman's -map (1855) as De Witt Clinton's r., and was once named La Salle r. by -an unscrupulous person. Above Andrus cr., in the S. E. 1/4 of Sect. 26 -of the tp. last said, a small creek comes in on the right, at "Dutch -Fred's" place. I heard a man call it Bear cr. Here the Mississippi -enters (or rather leaves) a haying-meadow, and within a mile receives -a small creek on our left, from the S., locally known as Killpecker or -Chillpecker cr. It is less than a mile hence to the house of one -Searles, in the S. W. 1/4 of Sect. 35, T. 145, R. 35. There is still -visible evidence that this was the site of an old trading-post; and on -discussing the case with my friend Brower, I agreed with his -conclusion that it was most probably the very spot we hear of from -William Morrison, who was the first known of white men at Lake Itasca, -in 1804. From this place upward to Lake Itasca the Mississippi is -practically unnavigable, at least in such a low stage of water as that -I found--not so much on account of the extensive rapids as from snags -and brush. The distance is called 20 m.--even 25 m., if one wants you -to hire his wagon--but it is nothing of the sort; 12 m. would cover -it. The air-line from Searles' house to Itasca is just 6 m., and -though the river is tortuous, besides having a general westward curve, -it can hardly be more than twice as much. One creek on this course, -called Division cr. by Brower, falls in from the W. in the S. W. 1/4 of -Sect. 27, T. 144, R. 36. A wagon-road leads from Searles' due S. to -the lower end of the N. arm of Lake Itasca. The distance is about 7 m. -by this road, which keeps on the ridge E. of the Mississippi till it -ends at the lake, close by the outlet, in the S. W. 1/4 of Sect. 35, T. -144, R. 36, thus almost on the line between T. 144 and T. 143, which -cuts the end of the N. arm, and forms the N. boundary of Itasca State -Park. Here Brower discovered the site of a prehistoric village in -Oct., 1894. - -This park, created by Act of the Minnesota Legislature, approved Apr. -20th, 1891, is 7 m. N. and S. by 5 m. E. and W., thus being 35 square -miles, 19,701-2/3 acres, consisting of Sects. 1, 2, 3, 4, 9, 10, 11, -12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 33, 34, 35, 36, of -T. 143, R. 36, in Beltrami Co., with Sects. 1, 2, 3, 4, of T. 142, R. -36, in Becker Co., Sects. 6, 7, 18, 19, 30, 31, of T. 143, R. 35, and -Sect. 6, of T. 142, R. 35--these in Hubbard Co. The rectangle thus -delimited includes nearly all the natural features about to be noted, -in the area designated as the ultimate reservoir bowl of the -Mississippi by Brower, to whose admirable official report I am -indebted for some particulars which did not come under my personal -observation on the spot, Aug. 24th and 25th, 1894. The brim of the -bowl is the Height of Land, Nicollet's Hauteurs des Terres, _sc._ -between Hudsonian and Mexican waters; for all the water in the bowl -runs into the Mississippi. The political boundary of the park is less -than conterminous with the area of this bowl. The latter is -conveniently divided into the greater and lesser segments, according -to whether the waters drain into the W. or the E. arm of Lake Itasca; -the greater segment contains the primal sources of the Mississippi. -The brim of the bowl has a maximum elevation of 1,750 feet above -sea-level. The southernmost lake in the bowl is Brower's Hernando de -Soto, supposed to be 2,5551/4 m. from the Gulf of Mexico, at an altitude -of 1,558 feet. Another is Morrison l. There are too many other small -lakes to mention, mostly beyond or beside any actual permanent surface -connection with the Mississippian stream; two little ones which come -very near to such connection are Whipple and Floating Moss. The -Mississippi springs from the ground under a hill which I call the -Verumontanum; the first collection of living waters, or what may be -termed Fons et Origo Springs, occurs about the contiguous corners of -Sects. 28/33|27/34, T. 143, R. 36. The rill which issues thence runs -northward in Sects. 27 and 28, collecting there in a pool worthily -named by Brower the Upper Nicollet l., after the keen-eyed geographer -who first spied and mapped it in connection with his immortal -discovery of the Mississippian Verum Caput. But this Lacus Superior -Nicolleti is not now connected by surface flowage with the -continuation of the Mississippi; Brower is correct in designating its -feeder as the "detached upper fork" of the Mississippi; for the Upper -Nicollet l. is separated by a dry ridge a few yards wide, forming a -sort of "natural bridge," under or through which water seeps, but over -which it certainly never flows. Stepping a few paces over this Pons -Naturalis, we descend into a boggy place where the several Nicollet -Springs issue from the ground and form a rill whose waters are -continuous to the Gulf of Mexico. If one wishes to "cover" the -Mississippi in any sense, one may do so literally here, where the -river is a few inches wide and fewer deep, by lying at full length on -both sides of the stream and drinking out of the channel. This rivulet -is the principal feeder of the Middle Nicollet l., which is of oval -figure, less than -1/3 of a mile long, lying chiefly in the S. E. 1/4 of -Sect. 21. The outlet of this lake is close to the inlet, by a -well-defined stream say -1/3 of a mile long, which starts W., receives -a small tributary called Howard cr. from the S., and then curves N. -into the Lower Nicollet l., 1/6 m. E. of the Middle l. This is in size -between the Upper and Middle lakes; it receives two rills, one of them -called Spring Ridge cr.; the Mississippi issues from the N. end of -this lake, and thence pursues a general N. E. course for about 3/4 of a -mile in an air-line, though crookedly and with several small bends, to -fall into the head of the W. arm of Lake Itasca, in the S. W. 1/4 of -Sect. 15. On its way it receives Demaray cr. from the W. Thus is -constituted, entirely above or S. of Lake Itasca, the Infant -Mississippi, discovered by Nicollet in 1836, and by him poetically -styled the Cradled Hercules. The cradle is now known as Nicollet -valley; it is bounded on the W. by the Hauteurs des Terres, now -Nicollet Heights, and on the E. by a long, curved, and somewhat broken -ridge, which I propose to call Brower Ridge, after the accomplished -gentleman whose name will always be associated with the history and -geography of the Itasca basin. This ridge is the best walking from -Itasca toward the Fons et Origo Springs--though in the present state -of the ground this is not saying much in its favor, yet this way is -less laborious than following up the Infant Mississippi. The N. end of -the ridge rises on Morrison hill, which overlooks Itasca on the one -hand and on the other gives a fine view of Elk l.; it is only a few -steps down to either lake from the summit, where stands the Brower -post of 1887 with its historical inscription, a sign-board -commemorating Nicollet, and a granite bowlder more durably graven with -a less enduring name (not Glazier). Elk l. is the largest body of -water in the bowl after Itasca, being of irregular oval figure, about -1 m. long by two-thirds as broad. It lies almost entirely in Sect. 22, -immediately S. of the head of the W. arm of Itasca, and thus alongside -the Herculean Incunabula, from which it is separated by Brower Ridge. -Elk l. has the bad luck of a bad name, with the more serious -misfortune of a vainglorious record of "exploitation." In the first -place the name--with due deference to Gen. J. H. Baker, who in 1876 -caused "Elk" to become official on the plot of T. 143, R. 36--seems to -me badly chosen. For "Elk" was originally the English name of Lake -Itasca, translating F. Lac la Biche, and Chippewa Omoshkos Sogiagon; -so its transfer to the smaller lake is liable to create confusion. -Better Gilfillan's Lake Breck, 1881, or Chippewa Gagiwitadinag -(embosomed in hills). In the second place a certain unworthy person -magnified the size of this lake, stretched out its principal feeder -southward, lengthened, widened, and deepened its discharge into -Itasca, labeled it Lake Glazier, and trumpeted his false claim of -discovering the one and only true source of the Mississippi, to the -scandal of geographical societies and other learned bodies. The best -_mot_ I ever heard on this subject was given me by a native of Deer -River, whose remark, however, is withheld, on the well-known principle -that "the greater the truth the greater the libel." Elk l. was well -described in 1872 by Julius Chambers, who called it Lake Dolly Varden; -its discharge into Itasca is now known as Chambers' cr. This is a -small side-stream about 333 yards long, in the bed of which I walked -dry-shod, yet which has been exploited as the course of the -Mississippi. Elk l. has several feeders, among them three creeks -called Elk, Siegfried, and Gaygwedosay--the latter for Nicollet's -guide of 1836, whom Nicollet calls Kegwedzissag. All the features thus -far noted are in the greater ultimate reservoir bowl, in relation with -the W. arm of Lake Itasca. Turning to the lesser part of the bowl, -whose waters drain into the E. arm, we find a chain of small lakes, -whose names from S. to N. are Josephine, Ako, Danger, Twin, and -Mary--the last having continuous surface flow by Mary cr. into the -head of the E. arm. Such, in brief, are the main features of the -Mississippian waters which drain from the S. into Lake Itasca; but I -suppose there are a hundred little lakes or pools in the bowl, which -seep through the bibulous soil--in fact, this flowing bowl is full of -lees. The largest lake, which forms its strongest feature, is of a -three-pronged or triradiate figure--mostly arms, with little body, -like a star-fish. It is said that the early name refers to the head -and antlers of the elk, respectively represented by the three -projections. There is not very much difference in size and shape -between them, though each has its particular form. Where the three -prongs come together as the main body of this lake is the small but -picturesque Schoolcraft isl., where the party of 1832 camped July -13th, as Nicollet did in Aug., 1836; it is decidedly the most eligible -spot for the purpose, before making one's periplus of the lake. The -island is in Sect. 11, T. 143, R. 36; its absolute position has been -dead-reckoned by Mr. A. J. Hill to be lat. 47 deg. 13' 10" N., long. 95 deg. -12' W. Mr. Brower has this summer (1894) set up a very stanch oaken -commemoration post, which bears a suitable legend and looks as if it -might stand for a century. The island was named by Allen (Rep., p. -332). Near it is a shallow place called Rocky Shoal. The lake is 3-2/3 -m. in greatest length from the end of the N. to that of the E. arm; -the ends of the E. and W. arms are 2-2/3 m. apart. The W. arm is -marked off by Ozawindib pt., the E. arm by Bear pt., and Turnbull pt. -projects into the latter arm about opposite the place where Nicollet -struck the lake in portaging over from Lake Assawa. The best view of -the lake is to be had from Rhodes' Hill, near the base of the E. arm. -Itasca has several feeders besides Mary cr., Chambers' cr., and the -Infant Mississippi; four of these are Island cr., from the W., -opposite Schoolcraft isl.; Floating Bog cr., falling in by Bear pt.; -Boutwell cr., on the W. side of the W. arm; and Shawinukumag cr., a -little rill close by the mouth of the Infant. There is one point about -the lake I wish to signalize by the name of Point Hill, after my -esteemed friend, Mr. Alfred J. Hill of St. Paul. When you come to the -N. end of the N. arm, at the usual landing or embarking place, where -McMullen's house stands, your view of Schoolcraft isl., as you look -southward up the N. arm, is intercepted by a promontory from the W. -side, near the center of Sect. 2, T. 143, R. 36; this is Point Hill. -The altitude of Lake Itasca is given by Brower as 1,457 feet; its -distance from the Gulf of Mexico, by the channel of the Mississippi, -is probably about 2,550 m.--by no means those "3,184" m. which the -Rand-McNally map exploits. The general situation is: 150 m. W. of Lake -Superior; 125 m. S. from the N. border of Minnesota; 75 m. E. from the -W. and 252 m. N. from the S. border of the same. The lake is reached -from St. Paul by 240 m. overland; take the G. N. R. R. to Park Rapids, -and go thence in one day by wagon. The distance from St. Paul by the -Mississippi is said to be 560 m.; it is practically out of the -question as a route, because of obstructions to navigation, especially -by logging-booms. A much easier way than I selected for my own -excursion is, as just said, to the lake by rail and wagon, thence down -the Mississippi by canoe or skiff to Deer River or Grand Rapids, where -you strike the D. and W. R. R., or even down to Brainerd, where the N. -P. R. R. crosses. The names most prominently associated with discovery -and exploration in the Itasca basin are: William Morrison, 1804; Henry -R. Schoolcraft and James Allen, 1832; Jean N. Nicollet, 1836; Julius -Chambers, 1872; James H. Baker and Edwin S. Hall, 1875; Hopewell -Clarke, 1886; J. V. Brower, 1889-94. A more extended historical note -will be found beyond; meanwhile let us return to Pike, at the mouth of -Turtle r., on Cass l. - -[III-9] David Thompson, the great explorer and surveyor, b. St. John's -parish, Westminster, Eng., Apr. 30th, 1770, d. Longueuil, opposite -Montreal, Canada, Feb. 16th, 1857, and now with his wife in Mt. Royal -cemetery. His activities compassed half a century, say 1790-1840, -during some of which years he seems to have been almost ubiquitous--so -extensive were his travels, in the service of the H. B. Co., N. W. -Co., and on professional duties in connection with the survey of the -boundary between the British possessions and the United States. Mr. -Thompson was a good practical astronomer and an admirable geographer. -Some of his determinations would not easily be surpassed in accuracy -by the best modern methods. He was also an assiduous journalist, and a -good draughtsman; but most of his work has never seen the light. The -manuscripts which he left are believed to cover the long period of -years during which he traveled and observed; and to include not only -his personal narrative, but also the mathematical tables by which his -astronomical observations were worked out for the determination of -latitude and longitude. They have more than once been drawn upon for -historical and geographical data; but no publication of such a -thorough digest of Thompson's life and work as could have been -prepared from these materials under competent and critical editorship -has ever been made. A brief recital of his journeys was read by J. B. -Tyrrell, B. A., etc., before the Canadian Institute, Mar. 3d, 1888, -and published that year, Toronto, 8vo., pp. 28. The official records I -have mentioned must not be confounded with certain fragments of -Thompson's MSS., now the property of a Mr. Charles Lindsey of Toronto, -and recently offered for sale. These are about 600 foolscap pp. in -Thompson's handwriting, drawn up very late in life--being thus by no -means his original journals and field note-books. Thompson was on the -Missouri at the Mandan villages Dec. 29th, 1797-Jan. 10th, 1798--thus -before Lewis and Clark, Oct. 27th, 1804-Apr. 7th, 1805, and the -younger Alexander Henry, July and Aug., 1806. While here he undertook -to determine from Indian information the _source_ of the Yellowstone -r., and made one of the most extraordinary computations on record; for -his figures agree within 20 m. or less with the true latitude and -longitude. Thompson was the first white man who ever descended the -Columbia r. from its head-waters to the point where Lewis and Clark -struck it, Oct. 16th, 1806; this voyage was made in the summer of -1811, and protracted to the Pacific at Astoria. That journey to which -Pike refers was made in 1798. Thompson came down the Turtle River -route to Cass l., late in April, and stopped at John Sayers' house, -located by him in lat. 47 deg. 27' 56" N. and long. 95 deg. W. If we marvel -why such a man as Thompson missed the honor of discovering the source -of the Mississippi, when that prize was so near at hand, we may -remember that the Turtle River head-waters were already the accepted -source, as being the furthest N. Leaving Cass l. May 3d, Thompson -descended the Mississippi through Lake Winnibigoshish, and so on to -the N. W. Co. house at Sandy l.; thence he went up Prairie or Savanna -r., the usual traders' route, portaged over to waters of the St. -Louis, and descended this river to the Fond du Lac house, which stood -21/2 m. from Lake Superior. This journey was from the post on the -Assiniboine r., at the mouth of Souris or Mouse r., which he left Feb. -25th; he reached Fond du Lac May 10th, or in 2 months and 18 days. - -[III-10] This most celebrated chief of the Leech Lake Chippewas, or -Pillagers, had three names, whose several variants number probably -three dozen. One of them may be written Ask a Buggy Cuss--for if that -is not right, it is as near right as some others, and easier to say -than any of the rest. It is the rule that the name is different with -everyone who uses it, and it often varies with the same author whose -"takes" fall into the hands of different compositors. Some of the -forms I have noted are: Aishkibugikozsh; Aishkabugakosh; Eshkibogikoj; -Esquibusicoge; Aishkebugekoshe and Eschkebugecoshe (in Minn. Hist. -Coll., V. _passim_); Eski Bugeckoge (in the French Pike, I. p. 220). -The French form of the name was Gueule Platte; and the English of it -was Flat Mouth. Pike spells the French in half a dozen different ways, -the question of gender included in the variation; while Schoolcraft, -who was something of a linguist, is equally vagarious in this case, -giving us Geulle Platte, Gouelle Platte, Guelle Plat, Gueulle Plat, -Guella Plat--anything you please, except Gruel Plate or Ghoul Plot! -Our Gallic friends themselves tried a variety of combinations, as -_gole_, _goule_, _gule_, before they suited themselves with _gueule_ -as a satisfactory substitute for the Latin _gula_--just as we did -before we made _gulley_ and _gullet_ out of the same old Roman stock. -On Pike's folding Abstract, the individual whose mouth, jaws, and -throat are so much in literary doubt figures as "Eskibugeckoge, -Geuelle Platte, Flat Mouth, first chief of his band." This was a large -one, best known as the Pillagers, also as Muckundwas, who had long -maintained a separate tribal organization. The medal which Flat Mouth -had received from the British at Fort William on Lake Superior, and -which Pike took from him to substitute an American one, was replaced -by a large solid silver one given him by Schoolcraft July 19th, 1828. -The latter author has a long and good account of this remarkably brave -and sensible Indian, who in 1832 seemed to be turned of 60 years, -about 5 feet 9 or 10 inches high, erect, but inclined to corpulency. -He had been on the war-path 25 times, and had killed a good many Sioux -without ever receiving a wound. He was a man of great discernment and -sound judgment, extensively and accurately informed upon all affairs -which concerned his people or himself. There is much said of him in -the Minnesota Historical Collections from first to last, especially in -the Hon. W. W. Warren's History of the Ojibwas, and Rev. E. D. Neill's -continuation of the same subject: see for example pp. 17, 19, 45, 50, -138, 178, 223, 269, 275, 324, 342, 349, 352, 359, 360, 362, 369, and -459, 463, 465, 475, 478, in Vol. V. of those Collections. He figured -prominently in Anglojibwa affairs for more than half a century, and -was living in 1852, at a supposed age of about 78 years, having been -born about 1774. The circumstances under which the Leech Lake Indians -received the names of Makandwyinniniwag, Mukundwais, or Muckundwas, F. -Pilleurs, E. Pillagers, Plunderers, and Robbers, are said in substance -by Schoolcraft to be these: During the period of great irregularities -in the fur-trade consequent upon the transfer of the balance of power -from French to English hands, when the latter were still dependent in -part or entirely upon the former for their clerks and boatmen, and -these were in great favor with the Indians, one Berti came on with -goods and took his station at the mouth of Crow-wing r. to trade with -the Chips. But he had more to sell than they could buy, including guns -and ammunition which he knew the Sioux would be glad to get. The -Chips., however, forbade his thus arming their foes; and when he -started for the Sioux country, in spite of their warnings and threats, -they arrested him by force of arms, and robbed him of all he -possessed, though they spared his life. Berti returned to Sandy l., -soon died of a broken heart, or of the exertions he had made to defend -his property, and was buried thereabouts. Dr. Douglass Houghton -relates a curious story of this trader's indirect causation of a -terrible smallpox epidemic that ravaged the Chips. The above -occurrences were in 1767-68. When the facts became known to the -company at Mackinac, the Indians were directed to make requital, with -threats of punishment for non-compliance. A deputation went to -Mackinac in the spring of 1770, with furs which were taken as an -equivalent for those which had been stolen, and the Indians were -dismissed with a cask of liquor and a closely rolled flag as a token -of friendship. They were enjoined not to broach the one or unroll the -other till they got home. But on the way they did both, and had a -drunken spree with some of their friends at Fond du Lac. Several were -taken sick, some died, and it was soon discovered that the disease had -broken out among them. It was spread broadcast, and is said to have -cost many hundred Chippewa lives before its ravages ceased. Whether -rightly or wrongly, the Indians were always firmly persuaded that a -dastardly outrage had been perpetrated upon them by the intentional -communication to them of the disease through the medium of the -presents they had received from officers of the fur company. I have -thus cited Schoolcraft for the popular or traditional as distinguished -from the proper or historical presentation of this case. The facts are -set forth at length in Warren's History of the Ojibways, chap. xxi., -forming pp. 256-262 of Minn. Hist. Coll., V. 1885. The nom de guerre -which the Pillagers accepted for themselves is there rendered -Mukimduawininewug (men who take by force). There appears to be no -truth whatever in laying upon the British the infamous charge of -intentional introduction of smallpox. Warren had the facts direct from -an intelligent old chief of the Pillagers, from which it appears that -the terrible epidemic, costing several thousand lives, was introduced -on the return of a war-party of Kenistenos, Assineboines, and -Ojibways, who had gone for scalps to the Kechepegano (Missouri) r., -and caught the infection from a village of Giaucthinnewug -(Grosventres). - -[III-11] Which formed Doc. No. 6, p. 17 of the App. to Pt. 1 of the orig. -ed., and will be found beyond. This letter answered Pike's of Feb. -7th. - -[III-12] The speech made at this conference by Pike, and the replies of -three chiefs, formed Docs. Nos. 7 and 8, p. 19 and p. 22 of the App. -to Pt. 1 of the orig. ed. Both are found beyond. - -[III-13] Though the phrase is not capitalized, this is the personal name -of a Leech Lake chief, whom Pike elsewhere calls Chef de la Terre and -Obigouitte. - -[III-14] That is, the main party, whom Pike starts off to-day with their -guide, in advance of himself, Corporal Bradley, Mr. "L'Rone," and the -two young Chips. named Buck and Beau. This would be inferred from the -above text, and is confirmed by that of 1807, p. 43, which says that -"the men were marched" Feb. 18th, and Pike with others was "to follow -afterwards." I have no clew as yet to the identity of this "L'Rone." -He seems to have been the guide whom Mr. M'Gillis provided, as Pike -says on the 21st, when this man was bundled back again, that he had -then no guide. But in that case, who or what was the Reale named on -the 21st? (See this name in Index.) - -[III-15] Pike is on a _Pine River route_ from Leech l. to Lower Red Cedar -l., and goes across country on a general course about S. S. E., in -Cass Co. This much is clear; but this region is none too well known, -and my own information does not suffice me to attempt identification -of the many small lakes he crosses till he comes to the large -Whitefish l. in the course of Pine r. I doubt that we have data which -enable anyone to trail him with confidence. The multiplicity of lakes -and streams of the Pine River connections affords in fact several ways -when the water is open, and when everything was frozen over Pike did -not necessarily take any one of the usual routes. The air-line -distance is some 55 m.; but he traveled much further, as he blundered -on the way and struck the Mississippi too low down--at the mouth of -present Dean cr. See note 47, p. 135, and forward, where Pike -describes his Pine River journey. - -[III-16] Not identified; but not to be confounded with the great Sandy l. -or Lac du Sable on the other side of the Mississippi, which Pike -reached Jan. 8th and left Jan. 20th: see note 49, p. 138. - -[III-17] Whitefish or Fish l., as it is still called, is the largest body -of water into which Pine r. expands, but by no means to be considered -as its source. Several large streams fall into it, and the largest one -of these is properly regarded as the continuation of Pine r. This lake -begins only about 10 m. (air-line) from the Mississippi. Nicollet -names it Kadikomeg l.; two smaller ones, lower down on Pine r., he -names Plympton and Davenport. Three of this same connection are now -Cross, Pine, and Gear. We know exactly where Pike is to-day; though -his account of what appear to be two? or three? N. W. Co. houses on -this lake is not as clear as we could wish. - -[III-18] On the up-voyage we figured out camp of Jan. 1st, 1806, to have -been between Dean and Hay crs.; the present pat coincidence confirms -the former independent determination: see note 47, p. 134. From -Whitefish l. Pike forged ahead of his party, accompanied by Boley, -Buck, and Beau, and bore away from Pine r. direct for Lower Red Cedar -l. He struck one of the little lakes connected with Dean cr., followed -this creek down to its mouth, and recognized this point on the -Mississippi as being a mile below where he had seen the Chippewa -canoes turned up Jan. 1st. Dean cr. empties 31/2 m. direct, exactly 5 m. -by the river, below Hay cr., about up to the mouth of which he goes to -camp to-night, and easily makes the N. W. Co. house to-morrow. Some -points I did not present in my former note on this locality are these: -Between Dean and Hay crs., and just W. of the "guide meridian" which, -N. of the Mississippi, marks the separation of the 4th and 5th -meridian systems of survey, is a very nearly straight stretch of the -river for 2 m., nearly E. and W. This was known to the old voyageurs -as the Grande Avenue. Its W. end is 13/4 m. above Dean cr.; its E. -beginning is at a sharp turn of the river 1/2 m. below (N. N. E. of) the -mouth of Hay cr., 23/4 m. scarcely E. of N. of the mouth of Cedar r.; -Pine Knoll is on this turn. At the end of the first 1/2 m. ascending the -Avenue, the range line between Ranges 27 and 28 (of the 4th M.) -strikes the Mississippi from the S., and ends there; this range line -is also the inter-county line between Crow Wing and Aitkin cos. -Rounding the bend at Pine Knoll and going less than 1/2 m., one comes to -the section line of Sects. 1 and 13, T. 136, R. 25, 5th M.; this is --1/8 m. from the mouth of Hay cr., and from this point upward Aitkin -Co. is on both sides of the river. Pike's camp of the 24th was within -a small fraction of a mile from the point thus indicated. - -[III-19] The first chief of the Sandy Lake Chippewas of Pike's time is -called on his table Catawabata, De Breche, and Broken Teeth. The -French form is intended for Dent Breche, and I suppose the more usual -term for a person with broken teeth would be Breche-dent. I have seen -the word printed as "Brusha." The native name is rendered Cadiwabida -by Schoolcraft, who speaks of him in 1832 as among the dead patriarchs -of his tribe. W. W. Warren renders this more correctly Kadowaubeda; -while Neill, with unusual inaccuracy on his part, speaks of -Catawatabeta _the_ Breche, in one place, and Kadewabedas, Breche, -Breche-dent, or Brechedent, in others. This man was living in July, -1828, when he visited Sandy l.; he was then the oldest Chippewa chief, -having been a small boy at the time of the capture of Fort Mackinac in -1763. - -[III-20] Doc. No. 9, p. 23 of App. to Pt. I of the orig. ed; to be found -beyond in the present ed. - -[III-21] See note 43, p. 131, Dec. 29th. It will not often be -necessary to recheck mileages on the down-voyage, now fairly under -way. "Pine Ridge" is hardly a named locality, though capitalized as -such. It is close to White Bear Skin r., the discharge of Duck and -Swamp lakes, near which we set camp of Dec. 29th, 1805. For a still -closer indication of the present camp, take the diminutive Half Moon -l., near the W. bank of the river. The point of the pine ridge is -opposite that. - -[III-22] There is difficulty in adjusting the discrepant records of Mar. -3d and 4th with those of Christmas week, 1805: see back, Dec. -17th-25th, and notes there. The party were then toiling by Crow Wing -r., between Ripley and Brainerd; Pike did not keep with his men, and -some of the discrepancies may be due to actual difference between his -movements and theirs. Pike also says, Dec. 23d, that he was scarcely -able to make his notes intelligible. The two records contradict -instead of corroborating each other. Thus, Dec. 17th has it that the -two-barrel cache (pork and flour) was made that day, not the 19th, as -above said; and it was at or near Ripley. Dec. 20th one barrel of -flour was buried; the party were then so close on to Crow Wing r. that -Pike got there early next morning. He did not leave Crow Wing r. till -after he had taken the latitude there, on the 24th. Meanwhile, his men -were struggling up to this river. It is really a small matter, of no -more than some 16 m. direct, or 20 m. by the Mississippi, and thus -hardly worth dwelling on; but I like to be accurate when I can. Pike -was camped at Brainerd Dec. 26th and Mar. 2d; he raised his one-barrel -cache of Dec. 20th, near Crow Wing r., on Mar. 3d, and continued on -down to the Nokasippi, which had been passed on or about Dec. 18th, -not 21st, as above; on Mar. 4th he came to the two-barrel cache which -he had made on Dec. 17th, not 19th, as above said, when he was in the -vicinity of Ripley; he continues to-day past Ripley, past his three -days' camp of Dec. 14th, 15th, and 16th, above Olmsted's bar, and -fetches up to-night opposite his camp of Dec. 13th, in the vicinity of -Topeka. Mar. 5th finds him at his stockade on Swan r. The camp of Mar. -3d, at the Nokasippi r., is an absolutely fixed point, as this is the -only river that falls in from the E. hereabouts. "Pine Camp" of the -above paragraph is the place where he was camped for three days, Dec. -14th, 15th, 16th, in the vicinity of Olmsted's bar. - -[III-23] "Between Pine creek and the post" is a slip for "between Pine -_camp_ and the post"; for the post was on Pine _creek_ (Swan r.). The -December camps passed Mar. 5th were four: Dec. 12th, at or near -Fletcher cr.; Dec. 11th, near Little Elk r.; Dec. 10th, at Little -Falls (city); Dec. 9th, just above Swan r., on the other side of the -Mississippi. The salute had been ordered by letter from Grant's house -on Lower Red Cedar l.: see back, Feb. 26th. For "Killeur Rouge" see -note 24, p. 118. - -[III-24] Full name of this Menomonee chief, as listed by Pike on his -tabular exhibit, where his native name is rendered Tomaw, and where -the other Folle Avoine chief also appears by the above name, Shawanoe, -not translated in F. or E. - -[III-25] Possibly a clew here to the unidentified person whose name -occurs as Greinyea or Grienway in Lewis and Clark, ed. of 1893, p. -1188, _q. v._ The person here meant is Louis Grignon: see Wis. Hist. -Coll., VII. p. 247. A Mr. Grignon is mentioned in Wm. Morrison's -letter (elsewhere cited) as one of the five persons besides himself -who formed the party that came into the country from Fond du Lac in -July, 1802. The name stands Greignon, text of 1807, p. 46. - -[III-26] Pike's observation strikes me as much more "singular" than the -Fox Indian's opinion. Many of us have been taught that the whole world -was once drowned, excepting one favored family, and we have also been -told how it was repeopled. That is one advantage which an enlightened -Christian has over Lo, the poor benighted Indian. The savage simply -accepts that one of the deluge-myths which his own ancestors -elaborated to suit themselves. But the Christian has the Word of God -himself, bound up in many different editions of various dates, for the -truth of that particular deluge-myth which the Jews appropriated, with -variations to suit their own tribal vanity, from the Chaldeans. They -invented very little except their precious Jehovah, who was less -polished and less agreeable a god than most of those who were -elaborated by the more civilized tribes who surrounded and generally -whipped the Jews. The Noachian narration, like the Genesis relation of -both the Elohistic and the Jehovistic scribes, was borrowed from one -of the myths that clustered about the legendary character known as -Gisdhubar, Izdubar, etc., alleged descendant of the last antediluvian -monarch Hasisadra, who became known to the Greeks through Berosus as -Xisuthros. The original of this deluge-myth was recovered from the -cuneiform characters by Geo. Smith of the British Museum in 1872, and -may be read in English and various other modern languages, to the -great edification of the faithful, no doubt: see it, _e. g._, in the -charming and readily accessible book, The Story of Chaldea, by Zenaide -A. Ragozin, 2d ed., 8vo, N. Y., G. P. Putnam's Sons, 1888, p. 301 and -p. 314. After the aqueous allegations had been reduced to writing in -Hebrew characters, and generations of Jewish rabbis had tinkered the -text to suit themselves with Masoretic points, and various anonymous -scribes had turned it into Septuagint Greek and Vulgate Latin, some -people in England who had never heard of the original, could not have -read a word of it if they had handled the very bricks on which it was -first stamped, and do not appear to have been informed on the subject -by the Holy Ghost, gave us their English version of the words of God -duly "authorized" by "the wisest fool in Europe," as the Duc de Sully -called James I. The most credible items in this account are that the -elephant took his trunk with him and stood behind it in the ark, but -that the cock and the fox were worse off for baggage, having only a -comb and a brush between them; yet I also believe just as firmly that -the raven which Noah let fly was the original progenitor of the Petit -Corbeau who lived in the village of Kapoja, near St. Paul, Minn. - -[III-27] The phrase which Pike's interpreter applied to the woman was no -doubt "La Bastonnaise." For a long period before and after the end of -the last century, "Bostonian" in some form was the nickname of -English-speaking whites, especially New Englanders--just as we now say -"Yankee." The Indians picked up the word from the Canadian French, and -it passed from mouth to mouth across the continent; _e. g._, it -entered the vocabulary of the Chinook jargon spoken on the N. W. -Coast. To cite a case: "On my remarking to Mr. Frobisher that I -suspected the _Bastonnais_ (Bostonians, or English colonists) had been -doing some mischief in Canada, the Indians directly exclaimed, 'Yes; -that is the name! _Bastonnais._' They were lately from the Grand -Portage," etc., Alex. Henry, Trav. of 1761-76, 8vo, N. Y., 1809, p. -329. - -[III-28] See back, note 14, p. 99, Oct. 8th, 1805. Pike's getting down -to Mr. Dickson's wintering-ground in one day from the stockade on Swan -r. confirms the opinion expressed in that note that this place is -marked too low on his map (below Clear Water r.). It also relieves us -of the difficulty that seemed to arise when we were told that Pike did -not pass Dickson's place till Oct. 10th, when we brought him up to St. -Cloud. Evidently, then, our adjustment of mileages and camps of Oct. -8th-10th is right, and Dickson's place was at the foot of the Thousand -Island cluster (Pike's Beaver isls.). The text of 1807, p. 21, speaks -of "the place where Mr. Rienville and Monsr. Perlier wintered in 1797. -Above it is a cluster of more than 20 islands in the course of four -miles, which they named the Beaver islands." As to the name of the -person who was with Mr. Dickson, we have choice of four: Paulier, as -above; Perlier, text of Oct. 10th, of both 1807 and 1810 eds., but -Paulire on p. 56 of the 1807 text; and Potier, on the map. One Antoine -_Pothier_, a trader, is named among Laclede's "thirty associates" by -Billon, Ann. St. Louis, 1764-1804, pub. 1886, p. 18; and it appears in -St. Louis archives that one Isidor _Peltier_ sold a slave to Louis -Blouin, Oct. 7th, 1767. For one _Pothier_, 1812, see also Wis. His. -Soc. Coll., XI. p. 272. But Pike's man is _Jacques Porlier_, b. 1765, -Milwaukee in 1783, Green Bay in 1791, d. 1839: see Wis. His. Soc. -Coll., III. p. 244, VII. p. 247, and Tasse, Les Canadiens de l'Ouest, -8vo, Montreal, 1878, I. pp. 137-141. - -[III-29] This letter formed Doc. No. 10, p. 24, of App. to Pt. 1 of the -orig. ed.; it is given beyond. It is dated Grand Isle (_i. e._, Grande -Ile), Apr. 9th; by which we may infer this to have been then the name -of the place where Mr. Dickson wintered, and that this place was on a -large island. All indications now are that the wintering-place in -question was on the foot of the large island at whose head are -Mosquito rapids, and only a mile or so above St. Augusta, as already -surmised in note 16, p. 100. For "a Mr. Greignor," see note 25, -p. 181. "A Mr. Veau" is Jacques Vieau or De Veau, b. 1757, d. 1852: -see W. H. S. C., XI. p. 218. The October date above is provokingly -blank for the day of the month. But I construe the passage to mean -that the place where Pike now is, Apr. 9th, is also the place where -Mr. Porlier's brother and Mr. Veau had wintered 1805-6. If so, we may -query Oct. 4th as the missing date; for though Pike does not say that -his camp that day was on an island, the position of Dimick's isl., to -which we then brought him, is such that he can easily make Rum r. by 7 -a. m. to-morrow, if he keeps on "some time" after leaving the island -in question, as he says he does. - -[III-30] Pike twice passed directly by Dayton bluff, in which this cave -was situated--once Sept. 21st, 1805, and again to-day: see back, note -72, p. 75, for the locality, and add: The cave which Carver -discovered in 1766 is thus described by him, pp. 39, 40, ed. of 1796: -"About 30 [say 15] miles below the Falls of St. Anthony, at which I -arrived the 10th day after I left Lake Pepin, is a remarkable cave of -an amazing depth. The Indians term it Wakon-teebe, that is, the -Dwelling of the Great Spirit. The entrance into it is about 10 feet -wide, the height of it 5 feet. The arch within is near 15 feet high, -and about 30 feet broad. The bottom of it consists of clear sand. -About 20 feet from the entrance begins a lake, the water of which is -transparent, and extends to an unsearchable distance; for the darkness -of the cave prevents all attempts to acquire a knowledge of it. I -threw a small pebble towards the interior parts of is [it], with my -utmost strength: I could hear that it fell into the water, and -notwithstanding it was of so small a size, it caused an astonishing -and horrible noise, that reverberated through all those gloomy -regions. I found in this cave many Indian hieroglyphics, which -appeared very ancient, for time had nearly covered them with moss, so -that it was with difficulty I could trace them. They were cut in a -rude manner upon the inside of the walls, which were composed of a -stone so extremely soft that it might easily be penetrated with a -knife; a stone everywhere to be found near the Mississippi. The cave -is only accessible by ascending a narrow, steep passage, that lies -near the brink of the river." Now it is easy to criticise such an -account, and those who wish to discredit this honest gentleman seize -upon "amazing depth," "unsearchable distance," "horrible noise," etc. -But that is unfair. These phrases are only Carver's _facon de parler_ -of his subjective sensations; the objective reality is truthfully and -recognizably described. Besides, one should be sure he is in Carver's -cave before he criticises the description--not get into another cave -and then find fault with Carver because the wrong cave does not fit -the right description, as our friend Schoolcraft did. The cave which -Carver does _not_ describe was not discovered till 1811. Long visited -two in 1817; in 1823 Long's second party visited the New or Fountain -cave, and Keating has left the matter in such clear light that the -passage may be transcribed, I. p. 289, ed. of 1824: "Above this -village [of Kapoja], there is a cave which is much visited by the -voyagers; we stopped to examine it, although it presents, in fact, but -little to admire; it is formed in the sandstone, and is of course -destitute of those beautiful appearances, which characterize the -caverns in calcareous rock. It is the same which is described by Mr. -Schoolcraft, whose name, as well as those of several of Governor Cass' -party we found carved in the rock. In his account of it, Mr. -Schoolcraft states it to be the cavern that was visited by Carver, but -adds that 'it appears to have undergone a considerable alteration -since that period.' It appears from Major Long's MSS. of 1817, that -there are two caves, both of which he visited; the lower one was -Carver's; it was in 1817 very much reduced in size from the dimensions -given by Carver; the opening into it was then so low, that the only -way of entering it was by creeping in a prostrate position. Our -interpreter, who had accompanied Major Long, told us that it was now -closed up; it was probably near the cemetery which we have mentioned. -The cavern which we visited, and which Mr. Schoolcraft describes, is -situated five miles above; it was discovered in 1811, and is called -the Fountain cave; there is a beautiful stream running through it," -etc. I think very likely the cave Long visited in 1817, and thought to -be Carver's, was really the smaller one alongside Carver's in Dayton -bluff, of which I am informed by my friend Mr. A. J. Hill, seeing how -"much reduced in size from the dimensions given by Carver" he found -it. Beltrami, II. pp. 191-193, goes on about Carver's cave in a way -which makes one think he entered no one of the three caves in this -vicinity, but drew on his imagination for his description after -reading up on the subject. He uses the phrase "cave of Trophonius," -and says that "the Sioux call this cave Whakoon-Thiiby"--a decidedly -original way of spelling it. Featherstonhaugh describes his visit of -Sept. 12th, 1835, to what he calls Carver's cave, p. 257 of his Canoe -Voyage, etc., pub. 1847. Nicollet, who is always to the point, speaks -of two caves, one 4 and the other 8 m. below St. Peters, Rep. 1843, p. -72: "Both are in the sandstone, but at different elevations. The -former is on a level with the river, and is reached through a short -ravine along the limpid streamlet that issues from it. Many authors -have thought this to be the cave described by Carver, but erroneously. -It would, in fact, be only necessary to compare the locality with -Carver's description, to be at once convinced. The cave now referred -to is of recent formation. The aged Sioux say that it did not exist -formerly. It has to them no ceremonial association. They scarcely ever -visit it, and there are none of their hieroglyphics upon its sides or -floor. It owes its formation to the dislocation and decomposition of -the upland limestone, which have left sloughy places; the waters of -which have penetrated into the sandstone, wearing it away, and giving -origin to the streamlet which issues from it. The location of this -cave is on my map designated as the _new cave_ [_New Cave_]. The -second, four miles below the former, is that described by Carver. Its -entrance has been, for more than 30 years, closed by the disintegrated -debris of the limestone capping the sandstone in which it is located. -On the 3d day of July, 1837, with the assistance of Messrs. Campbell -and Quinn--the former an interpreter for the Sioux, the latter for the -Chippeways--I set about clearing this entrance; which, by-the-bye, was -no easy work; for, on the 5th we were about abandoning the job, when, -unexpectedly, we found that we had made an opening into it; and -although we had not entirely disincumbered it of its rubbish, I saw -enough to satisfy me of the accuracy of Carver's description. The lake -mentioned by him is there; but I could only see a segment of the cave, -a portion of its roof being too near the surface of the water to -enable me to proceed any further. A Chippeway warrior made a long -harangue on the occasion; throwing his knife into the lake as an -offering to _Wakan-tibi_, the spirit of the grottoes. The ascent to -the cave is by a rapid slope; and on the rocks that form a wall to the -left, there are a number of ancient Sioux hieroglyphics, that mean -nothing more than to indicate the names of Indians that have at -various times visited this natural curiosity. On leaving the cave and -reaching the river, a stroll of a few yards to the left, by keeping -close to the rocks, brought us upon a sweet, limpid and copious spring -which had remained for a long time unknown in consequence of the -shingle and brush that conceal its outlet. This is evidently the issue -of the waters of Grotto lake; and their abundance indicates that the -lake is well fed, and doubtless occupies a considerable space within -the mountain. On the high grounds above the cave there are some Indian -mounds, to which the Indians belonging to the tribe of _Mdewakantonwans_ -formerly transported the bones of the deceased members of their -families," as is stated by Carver, Pike, Long, and many others. I am -led into this long note partly for the purpose of setting history -straight, and partly from the intrinsic interest of these Stygian -caverns, which Pike passes to-day without notice, as hundreds now do -every day and will do until the places are improved off the earth. The -cave that Nicollet opened is the veritable one that Carver discovered; -it is right on the railroad that skirts Dayton bluff, about a mile in -an air-line from Union depot. The New or Fountain cave is miles away, -in Upper St. Paul, near the railroad bridge there, unless it has -lately yielded to the triumph of art over nature and been effaced. Mr. -Hill writes from St. Paul, Mar. 18th, 1894: "Before the shaving off of -Carver's cave--or rather before our civil war--the serpent on the roof -on the right hand as you stood on the brink of the waters was very -plainly visible, and might have been traced by rubbing or otherwise; -but this would have required scaffolding. It has been remarked that -the serpent was the totem of Ottahtongoomlishcah, one of the Sioux -chiefs of the 'Cave Treaty.' I found by actual measurement that the -extreme length of the lake was 110 feet, before any alteration of the -surface had occurred." See also the article by Mr. Hill on Mounds, -Minn. Hist. Soc. Coll., VI. Pt. 2, 1891. J. Fletcher Williams, in -Minn. Hist. Soc. Coll., I. 2d ed. 1872, p. 355, notes that there was -little change in Carver's cave in the course of a century, for it was -much the same May 1st, 1867, when the Historical Society celebrated -the centennial of Carver's purported treaty with the Sioux. "Within -the past two years, however, sad changes have taken place. The St. -Paul & Chicago Railroad, having condemned for their use the strip of -land along the river bank, including the bluff or cliff in which is -the cave, have dug it down and nearly destroyed it. But a narrow -cavity now remains to mark its site. The pool or lake is gone, and the -limpid stream that flows through it now supplies a railroad tank." But -now, says Mr. Hill, "sand heaped from railroad cutting has again -backed up the water into a pool, the receptacle of all filth." Mr. T. -H. Lewis' article, Cave-Drawings, Appleton's Annual Cyclop., 1889, p. -117 (reprint, p. 3), gives the exact position of both the Dayton bluff -caves; the small one, 400 feet above Carver's, is 50 feet N. E. of -Commercial St., midway between Plum and Cherry Sts., at the foot of -the bluff; 35 feet long on the floor, as measured in 1889 to the edge -of the water in the rear, 24 feet wide, 10 feet high--thus about -one-third as large as Carver's. It had pictographs like those of -Carver's cave. None of those Carver mentions were ever copied; his -cave was in part demolished by grading when the railroad first came -by, and in the course of time the walls were scribbled over by the -ubiquitous army of idlers and tramps from whose vandalism no natural -formation or artificial monument in the world is secure. - -[III-31] Literally Raven's Nose. He is tabulated by Pike as Tatamane, Nez -Corbeau, Raven Nose, and Wind that Walks (latter name a euphemism). - -[III-32] "Dispunishable" is a good old word, though rare and now -obsolete; but Pike uses it in the opposite of its meaning, which was -simply "punishable"--for the prefix _dis-_ is here intensive, not -reversive or nugatory. C. D. marks it obs., and cites in support of -def. a passage from the last will of Dean Swift, in a clause of which -"_dispunishable_ of waste" occurs. - -[III-33] Joseph Rolette, Sr. There were various persons of this surname, -whose spelling varies as usual. Billon gives one Michel Rolette as a -French soldier who came from Fort Chartres to Laclede's village (St. -Louis) in 1764. Pike's "Mr. Rollett" is the same man as Beltrami's -"Mr. Roulet," said in Beltrami's book, II. p. 174, to have been at -Prairie du Chien in 1823, in the S. W. Co. The Minn. Hist. Coll., II. -Part 2, 1864, 2d ed. 1881, p. 107, mentions "the notorious Joseph -Rolette, sen.," as at Prairie du Chien, in or about Feb., 1822. The -memoir of Hercules M. Dousman, by General H. H. Sibley, Minn. Hist. -Coll., III. 1870-80, p. 193, speaks of "the late Joseph Rolette, -senior," as a partner of the American Fur Company, in 1826; again we -read there, p. 194: "In 1834 ... I formed with him [Dousman] and the -late Joseph Rolette, senior, a co-partnership with the American Fur -Company of New York, which passed in that year under the direction of -Ramsay Crooks as President"; and once more, _ibid._, p. 199: "In 1844, -Col. Dousman was united in marriage to the widow of his former partner -in business, Joseph Rolette, senior, who died some years previously." - -[III-34] This letter was Doc. No. 11, p. 25 of the App. to Pt. 1 of the -orig. ed. It is given beyond. - -[III-35] That is to say, certain ones of their nation who were murderers -of some white men: see Apr. 17th. The minutes of this Winnebago -conference formed Doc. No. 12, p. 26 of the App. to Pt. 1 of the orig. -ed.; given beyond. - -[III-36] Doc. No. 13, p. 29 of the App. to Pt. 1 of the orig. ed.; given -beyond. - -[III-37] On Pike's Tabular Abstract, one Red Thunder, Tonnerre Rouge, or -Wuckiew Nutch, appears as a Sisseton and "first chief of all the -Sioux"; while Red Cloud, Nuage Rouge, or Muckpeanutah, is exhibited as -first chief of the Yanktons. - -[III-38] James B. Many of Delaware, whose name occurs in Pike and -elsewhere as Many, Maney, Manny, and Mary, also as Mancy in the text -of 1807, was appointed first lieutenant of the 2d reg't of -Artillerists and Engineers June 4th, 1798, and hence of Artillerists -Apr. 1st, 1802; promoted to be captain Oct. 1st, 1804, and major, May -5th, 1813; he was transferred to the corps of Artillery May 12th, -1814, to the 4th Infantry June 1st, 1821, to the 5th Infantry Oct. -24th, 1821; on the 1st of Jan., 1822, he was made lieutenant-colonel -of the 7th Infantry, to rank from June 1st, 1821; became colonel of -the 2d Infantry July 21st, 1834, and died Feb. 23d, 1852. - -[III-39] Pigeons are among the least fecund of birds, as they lay only -two eggs at a clutch, and that not oftener than most other birds. But -Pike's account of their vast numbers is not in the least exaggerated. -The aggregate of individuals in existence in the United States during -those and for many later years defies all attempt at calculation. Some -single flights have been estimated to include millions. The settlement -of the country, and consequent wanton destruction during our -generation, have exterminated the wild pigeon in some regions, and -reduced to comparatively few its numbers in others. - -[III-40] Daniel Hughes of Maryland originally entered the army as an -ensign of the 9th Infantry, Jan. 8th, 1799; became a lieutenant that -year, and was honorably discharged June 15th, 1800. He was reappointed -second lieutenant of the 2d Infantry Feb. 16th, 1801, and transferred -to the 1st Infantry Apr. 1st, 1802; promoted to be first lieutenant -Mar. 23d, 1805, and captain Dec. 15th, 1808; became major of the 2d -Infantry Feb. 21st, 1814, and was honorably discharged June 15th, -1815. His subsequent career is not known to me. - -[III-41] A sketch of the early history of St. Louis forms pp. 75-92 of -Nicollet's Report of 1843, so often cited in the foregoing notes. It -will be well to abstract here the main historical points of this -article, which is not so well known as everything that Nicollet wrote -should be. Some of the following items are adduced from other sources, -as Billon's Annals. Louisiana was ceded by France to Spain, Treaty of -Fontainebleau, Nov. 3d, 1762, ratified Nov. 13th; and by Treaty of -Paris, Feb. 10th, 1763, France and Spain jointly made the cession to -Great Britain. In 1762 or 1763 D'Abadie was director-general of -Louisiana ad interim, vice Governor Kerlerec, relieved. He licensed -Laclede, Maxent (or Maxam) and Co., merchants of New Orleans, to trade -up the river. Pierre Ligueste Laclede, in charge of the party, left -New Orleans Aug. 3d, 1763; proceeded to St. Genevieve and Fort -Chartres, Nov. 3d; to the mouth of the Missouri in Dec.; blazed a site -for his trading-post, now St. Louis; and returned to winter at Fort -Chartres, 1763-64. He soon sent to the spot he had marked a boat with -30 persons, in charge of Auguste Chouteau; they arrived Feb. 15th, -1764 (so Nicollet), or Mar. 14th (Chouteau himself says). The list of -the "Thirty Associates" of Laclede given by Billon, p. 17, is 31, with -Antoine Riviere, who, however, did not go in this boat, but drove the -cart which contained Mrs. Chouteau and four children, and which was -escorted by Laclede in person. Chouteau says that Laclede came there -early in April, selected a site for his own house, and returned to -Fort Chartres. He brought his family in September, and established -himself in his new house. The settlement was made, and at least eight -persons were added to the original number by the fall of 1764. The -original name was Laclede's Village. In Oct., 1764, the infant colony -was annoyed by begging and pilfering Missouri Indians. D'Abadie died -Feb. 4th, 1765. Neyon de Villiers had turned over the command of Fort -Chartres, June 15th, 1764, to Louis St. Ange de Bellerive, by whom it -was given over to the British Captain Stirling, Oct. 10th (not July -17th), 1765; Stirling died in three months, and St. Ange resumed -temporary charge of the fort, pending arrival of Stirling's English -successor. British dominion E. of the Mississippi, already -established, was odious; it drove many persons across the river, and -naturally they gathered about the nucleus Laclede had provided. By the -end of 1765 several hundred were there; law was needed, and a -provisional government was set up by general consent in the election -or recognition of St. Ange as governor; this was in effect in April, -1766, with the first recorded document of a public character; first on -record being one filed by Joseph Labusciere, notary, Jan. 21st, 1766. -Laclede, St. Ange, Labusciere, and Judge Joseph Le Febvre d'Inglebert -d'Brouisseau were the four persons most prominent in moving the wheels -of government for four or five years. The settlement had already -outgrown all the earlier ones in the vicinity and become the actual -"metropolis" or capital place in the country. In 1767 the village had -perhaps 80 houses, and several hundred people. Late that year Capt. -Francisco Rios or Rivers arrived with some 25 men, sent by Don Antonio -d' Ulloa to take Spanish possession; he could not be conveniently -accommodated, so selected a camp on the Missouri, 14 miles away, where -he built in 1768 Fort Charles the Prince (site of subsequent Belle -Fontaine), named for the one who became in 1788 Charles IV. of Spain. -Definitive possession of Upper Louisiana was taken May 20th, 1770, by -Capt. Piedro Piernas, sent from New Orleans by Gen. Alex. O'Reilly -(Oreiley of Nicollet), who had landed there at 5 p. m., Aug. 18th, -1769. At the close of the French regime, 1770, the village had 100 -wooden and 15 stone houses; pop. 500. Before or about 1770, some other -settlements were made in the region roundabout; Blanchette the hunter -built his shack on les Petites Cotes, and this place became St. -Charles in 1784; the place to be called both Florissant and St. -Ferdinand was started by Francois Borosier Dunegan (so Nicollet--but -query this name?) Francois Saucier settled at Portage des Sioux. The -origin of the name _Pain Court_ is said to be: In 1767, one Delor -Detergette settled on the W. bank of the Miss. r., 6 m. S. of St. -Louis, and was followed by others, all so poor that when they visited -St. Louis, the people there would exclaim, "voila les poches vides qui -viennent!" "Here come the Empty Pockets!" "But," says Nicollet, "on -one occasion a wag remarked, 'You had better call them _emptiers of -pockets_'--_les Vide-poches_; a compliment which was retaliated by them -upon the place of St. Louis, which was subject to frequent seasons of -want, by styling it _Pain-Court_--_Short of Bread_." The Vide-poche -place became Carondelet in 1776. Laclede died at the Poste aux -Arkansas, June 20th, 1778. On May 6th, 1780, St. Louis was attacked by -Indians and British, and many persons (accounts differ as to numbers) -were killed or captured; it became known as l'Annee du Grand -Coup--year of the great blow. Similarly 1785 was called l'Annee des -Grandes Eaux, because of the flood in April when the Mississippi rose -to an unprecedented height and inundated the lowlands; it is -traditional that Auguste Chouteau moored his boat and breakfasted on -top of the highest roof in St. Genevieve. The year 1788 was called -L'Annee des Dix Batteaux, from circumstances of piracy on the river. -The winter of 1789-90 was notable for its intensity. There was no -interruption of Spanish dominion until the cession of Louisiana to the -United States: see Lewis and Clark, ed. 1893, p. xxxiii. and p. 2. - - - - -CHAPTER IV. - -WEATHER DIARY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.[IV-1] - -_Meteorological Observations made by Lieutenant Pike, on the -Mississippi, in 1805 and 1806._ - - -NOTE.--These observations are very imperfect, my mode of traveling -being such as to prevent my making regular references to the -thermometer; and during the intense cold which prevailed some part of -the winter, the mercury of the barometer sank into the bulb. I was -also frequently obliged to be absent from my party, when it was -impossible for me to carry instruments. Those different circumstances -occasioned the omissions which appear in the table. The instrument -employed was Reaumer's, but the observations made have been adapted to -the scale of Fahrenheit.--Z. M. PIKE, 1st lieutenant. - - =====+==============+========+================+=========+======+=======+===== - | Thermometer | | Wind | | | |Baro- - | (degrees) | | | | | |meter - Date +----+----+----+ Sky +--------+-------+ N. | W. | Var. |(in.) - |sun-| 3 |sun-| | Course |Force | Lat. | Long.| | - |rise|p.m.|set | | | | | | | - -----+----+----+----+--------+--------+-------+---------+------+-------+----- - Aug.| | | | | | | | | | - 6 | ...| ...| ...| clear | S S E | fresh | 39 deg.1' |15 deg.20'| 7 deg.54' | 28.5 - | | | | | | | | Ph. | | - 7 | ...| 90 | ...|thunder-| N W | very | ... | ... | ... | 28 - | | | | storm | | hard | | | | - 8 | ...| 75 | ...| rain | N W | do. | ... | ... | ... | 28.5 - 9 | ...| 83 | ...| cloudy | S by E | light | ... | ... | ... | 28.8 - 10 | ...| 97 | ...| flying | W |squally| ... | ... | ... | 28 - | | | | clouds | | | | | | - 11 | ...|1081/2| ...| do. | W by S | ... | ... | ... | ... | 20 - 12 | ...|1013/4| ...| rain | S by W | fresh | ... | ... | ... | 29.2 - 13 | ...| 833/4| ...| hard | N W | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - | | | | rain | | | | | | - 14 | ...| 811/2| ...| do. | S by E | do. | ... | ... | ... | 28.5 - 15 | ...| 881/4| ...| rainy | N W | do. | 40 deg.31" |16 deg.41"| ... | 29 - 16 | ...| 901/2| ...| clear | N W |gentle | ... | ... | ... | 30 - 17 | ...| 881/4| ...| do. | S E | do. | ... | ... | ... | 30.2 - 18 | ...| 811/2| ...| cloudy | N W |strong | ... | ... | ... | 28.5 - 19 | ...| 991/2| ...| clear | N W |gentle | ... | ... | ... | 30 - 20 | ...| 901/2| ...| do. | E | do. | ... | ... | ... | 30 - 21 | ...| 881/4| ...| cloudy | S E | fresh |40 deg.32'12"| ... | ... | 29 - 22 | ...| 901/2| ...| clear | N by W |strong | ... | ... | ... | 29.5 - 23 | ...|1061/4| ...| do. | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | 30 - 24 | ...| 823/4| ...| clear | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | 30 - 25 | ...| 811/4| ...| cloudy | N by W |strong | ... | ... | ... | 2 - 26 | 611/4| 721/2| ...| rain | N by W | gale | ... | ... | ... | ... - 27 | 541/2| 631/2| ...| do. | N by W | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 28 | 521/4| 611/4| ...| do. | S by E | hard | ... | ... | ... | ... - 29 | 521/4| 721/2| ...| cloudy | S by E | fresh | ... | ... | ... | 28.5 - 30 | 611/4| 881/4| ...| clear | S by W | do. | ... | ... | ... | 28 - 31 | ...| 923/4| ...| do. | S by W |gentle | ... | ... | ... | 28.5 - =====+==============+========+================+=========+======+=======+===== - - =====+==============+========+================+=========+======+=======+===== - | Thermometer | | Wind | | | |Baro- - | (degrees) | | | | | |meter - Date +----+----+----+ Sky +--------+-------+ N. | W. | Var. |(in.) - |sun-| 3 |sun-| | Course |Force | Lat. | Long.| | - |rise|p.m.|set | | | | | | | - -----+----+----+----+--------+--------+-------+---------+------+-------+----- - Sept.| | | | | | | | | | - 1 | ...| 881/4| ...| clear | S E | fresh | ... | ... | ... | 30 - 2 | ...| 95 | ...| do. | S |gentle | ... | ... | ... | 29.3 - 3 | ...| 791/4| ...| cloudy | N W | do. | ... | ... | ... | 28.8 - 4 | ...| 77 | ...| do. | S W | do. |43 deg.44'8" | ... | ... | 29 - 5 | ...| 881/4| ...| rain | S W | fresh | ... | ... | ... | 27 - 6 | ...| 95 | ...| clear | S by E | do. | ... | ... | ... | 27 - 7 | ...| 86 | ...| cloudy | S by E | do. | ... | ... | ... | 28 - 8 | ...| 991/2| ...| do. | S by E | do. | ... | ... | ... | 29.5 - 9 | ...| 923/4| ...| do. | S |gentle | ... | ... | ... | 28.8 - 10 | ...| 721/2| ...| rain | N by W | fresh | ... | ... | ... | ... - 11 | ...| 59 | ...| do. | N by E | hard | ... | ... | ... | ... - 12 | ...| 521/4| ...| do. | N by E | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 13 | ...| 50 | ...| do. | N |gentle | ... | ... | ... | ... - 14 | ...| 431/4| ...| clear | S E | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 15 | ...| 653/4| ...| rain | S E | do. | ... | ... | ... | 28 - 16 | ...| 77 | ...| rising | S E | fresh | ... | ... | ... | 28.5 - | | | | clouds | | | | | | - 17 | ...| 653/4| ...| rain | N W | hard | ... | ... | ... | ... - 18 | ...| 77 | ...| cloudy | N W |gentle |45 deg.44'8" | ... | ... | ... - 19 | ...| 653/4| ...| do. | S E | fresh | ... | ... | ... | ... - 20 | ...| 721/2| ...| clear | N W | do. | ... | ... | ... | 28.5 - 21 | 41 | 77 | ...| do. | S E |gentle | ... | ... | ... | 29 - 22 | ...| 77 | ...| do. | N W | fresh | ... | ... | ... | ... - 23 | ...| 811/2| ...| cloudy | N W | do. | ... | ... | ... | 28.5 - 24 | ...| 86 | ...| do. | N W | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 25 | ...| 77 | ...| flying | N W | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - | | | | clouds | | | | | | - 26 | ...| 653/4| ...| cloudy | S E | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 27 | ...| 653/4| ...| do. | S E | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 28 | ...| 653/4| ...| rain | S by E | hard | ... | ... | ... | 28 - 29 | ...| 721/2| ...| cloudy | S by E |fresh, | ... | ... | ... | ... - | | | | | | hard | | | | - 30 | ...| 653/4| ...| do. | N E | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - Oct.| | | | | | | | | | - 1 | 50 | 653/4| ...| cloudy | N W |fresh | 45 deg. | ... | ... | 28.5 - 2 | 50 | 721/2| ...| rain | N W | | ... | ... | ... | 28 - 3 | 32 | 50 | ...| clear | N W | | ... | ... | ... | 28.4 - 4 | 32 | 50 | ...| cloudy,| N W | | ... | ... | ... | 29 - | | | | hail | | | | | | - 5 | 32 | 23 | ...| clear | N W | hard | ... | ... | ... | 29.5 - 6 | 32 | 23 | ...| do. | N W | do. | ... | ... | ... | 29.5 - 7 | 361/2| 50 | ...| do. | N W | do. | ... | ... | ... | 29 - 8 | 26 | 50 | ...| do. | S E | fresh | ... | ... | ... | 29.5 - 9 | 41 | 541/2| ...| do. | W by N | | ... | ... | ... | 29.5 - 10 | 50 | 881/4| 653/4| do. | S by W | do. | ... | ... | ... | 29.5 - 11 | 361/2| 653/4| 541/2| do. | N by W | do. | ... | ... | ... | 29 - 12 | 361/2| 59 | 361/2| do. | N by W | hard | ... | ... | ... | 29.5 - 13 | 36 | 721/2| 59 | do. | S by W | fresh | ... | ... | ... | 36.2 - 14 | 36 | 653/4| 50 | do. | N W |gentle | ... | ... | ... | 29 - 15 | 431/4| 541/2| 41 | cloudy,| N by W | fresh | ... | ... | ... | 28.5 - | | | | rain | | | | | | - 16 | 50 | 653/4| 541/2| snow | do. | do. |45 deg.33'3" | ... | ... | 28.5 - 17 | 41 | 50 | 52 | do. | do. | do. | ... | ... | ... | 28 - 18 | 431/4| 541/2| 50 | cloudy | S by W | do. | ... | ... | ... | 29.5 - 19 | 451/2| 59 | 541/2| clear, | do. |gentle | ... | ... | ... | 29.8 - | | | | cloudy | | | | | | - 20 | 431/4| 54 | 431/4| do. | do. | do. | ... | ... | ... | 29.5 - 21 | 23 | 14 | 20 | clear | do. | do. | ... | ... | ... | 29 - 22 | 29 | 45 | 32 | cloudy,| N by W | do. | ... | ... | ... | 28.5 - | | | | snow | | | | | | - 23 | 20 | 27 | 23 | do. | N W | do. | ... | ... | ... | 29.3 - 24 | 20 | 27 | 23 | do. | N W | do. | ... | ... | ... | 29 - 25 | 16 | 23 | 43 | cloudy | ... | do. | ... | ... | 9 deg.10' | 29 - 26 | 11 | 20 | 32 | clear | W | do. | ... | ... | ... | 29.5 - 27 | 20 | 32 | 431/4| do. | W | do. | ... | ... | ... | 30 - 28 | 20 | 43 | 47 | do. | N E | do. |45 deg.33'3" | ... | 9 deg.10'S| 29.5 - 29 | 27 | 50 | 43 | cloudy,| N E | do. | ... | ... | ... | 29 - | | | | rain | | | | | | - 30 | 50 | 52 | 50 | do. | N E | do. | ... | ... | ... | 28.5 - 31 | 32 | 43 | 47 | cloudy | N | do. | ... | ... | 9 deg.10'S| 28 - =====+==============+========+================+=========+======+=======+===== - -REMARKS.--Sept. 1st, The [Dubuque] Mines. Sept. 5th, Prairie De Chien. -Sept. 10th, Barometer below 28. Sept. 18th, Lake Pepin. Sept. 22d, -River St. Peter's. Sept. 27th, Falls of St. Anthony. Oct. 16th, Pine -Creek Rapids. Oct. 28th, Pine Creek. - - =====+===============+=======+================+=========+======+=======+===== - | Thermometer | | Wind | | | |Baro- - | (degrees) | | | | | |meter - Date +----+-----+----+ Sky +--------+-------+ N. | W. | Var. |(in.) - |sun-| 3 |sun-| | Course |Force | Lat. |Long. | | - |rise|p.m. |set | | | | | | | - -----+----+-----+----+-------+--------+-------+---------+------+-------+----- - Nov.| | | | | | | | | | - 1 | 36 | ... | ...| rain | ... | ... |45 deg.33'3" | ... | ... | 28 - 2 | ...| ... | ...| snow | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 3 | ...|warm | ...| fair | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 4 | ...|fresh| ...| do. | N E |gentle | ... | ... | ... | ... - 5 | ...|warm | ...| do. | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 6 | ...|cool | ...| snow | N W | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 7 | ...|warm | ...| hail, | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - | | | | rain | | | | | | - 8 | ...| do. | ...| light | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - | | | | snow | | | | | | - 9 | ...|cold | 27 | do. | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 10 | 14 | 20 | 20 | clear | N W |gentle | ... | ... | ... | 28 - 11 | 20 | 25 | 25 | do. | S E | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 12 | 27 | 25 | 27 |cloudy | S W | do. | ... | ... | ... | 28.5 - 13 | 38 | 36 | 38 | do. | ... | do. | ... | ... | ... | 28.5 - 14 | 41 | ... | ... | rain | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 15 | 47 | 38 | 41 |cloudy | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 16 | 54 | 36 | 47 | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 17 | 47 | 36 | 32 | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 18 | 36 | 34 | 32 |clear | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 19 | 38 | 36 | 23 | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 20 | 38 | 36 | 41 | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 21 | 41 | 36 | 45 | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 22 | 41 | 36 | 38 | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 23 | 41 | 32 | 27 | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 24 | 38 | 34 | 32 | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 25 | 41 | 38 | 38 | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 26 | 38 | 32 | 34 | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 27 | 38 | 38 | 34 | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 28 | 29 | 43 | 41 |clear | N W | fresh | ... | ... | ... | ... - 29 | 23 | 32 | 36 | do. | N |gentle | ... | ... | ... | ... - 30 | 16 | 27 | 25 | do. | N by W | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - Dec.| | | | | | | | | | - 1 | 25 | 32 | 32 | snow | S W |gentle |45 deg.33'9" | ... | ... | ... - 2 | 7 | 27 | 16 |clear | S E | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 3 | 16 | 32 | 20 | do. | S E | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 4 | 20 | 32 | 27 | do. | S E | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 5 | 23 | 32 | 32 |cloudy | S E | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 6 | 25 | 32 | 32 |clear | S E | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 7 | 20 | 27 | 25 | do. | S E | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 8 | 16 | 25 | 27 | do. | S E | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 9 | 20 | 25 | 23 | do. | N E | fresh | ... | ... | ... | ... - 10 | 23 | 27 | 29 |cloudy | N W | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 11 | 27 | ... | 43 | do. | S E |gentle | ... | ... | ... | ... - 12 | 29 | ... | 32 | do. | N W | fresh | ... | ... | ... | ... - 13 | 38 | ... | 32 | snow | N W | hard | ... | ... | ... | ... - 15 | 7 | ... | 11 |cloudy | N W | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 16 | 9 | ... | 43 |clear | S |gentle | ... | ... | ... | ... - 17 | 20 | ... | 32 | do. | S E | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 18 | 36 | ... | 36 | do. | S E | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 19 | 36 | ... | 25 |cloudy | SE, NW | fresh | ... | ... | ... | ... - 20 | 25 | ... | 32 | do. | N E |gentle | ... | ... | ... | ... - 21 | 18 | ... | 27 | do. | N E | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 22 | 2 | ... | 5 |clear | N E | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 23 | 2 | ... | 32 | do. | N E | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 24 | 5 | ... | 27 | do. | N E | do. |45 deg.49'50"| ... | ... | ... - 25 | 27 | ... | 27 |cloudy | N W | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 26 | 23 | ... | 29 | do. | N E | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 27 | 23 | ... | 29 | snow | E | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 28 | 23 | ... | 32 |cloudy | S W | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 29 | 20 | ... | 11 |clear | N W | hard | ... | ... | ... | ... - 30 | 9 | ... | 11 | do. | W | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 31 | 9 | ... | 20 | do. | W | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - =====+===============+=======+================+=========+======+=======+===== - -REMARKS.--Nov. 2d, Absent from camp. Nov. 6th, Thunder and lightning. -Nov. 9th, Return to camp. Nov. 11th-12th, Thawing. Nov. 13th, Smoky. -Nov. 14th, Thunder and lightning. Nov. 16th-19th, Freezing. Nov. -20th-21st, Thawing. Nov. 22d, Freezing. Nov. 23d-27th, Thawing. Dec. -11th, Thawing. Dec. 12th, Slight snow. Dec. 13th, Storm. Dec. 14th, -Stormy. Dec. 17th-18th, Thawing. Dec. 19th-25th, Freezing. Dec. 28th, -Very cold. Dec. 31st, Very cold. - - =====+=================+=======+==============+=========+======+=======+===== - | Thermometer | | Wind | | | |Baro- - | (degrees) | | | | | |meter - Date +-------+----+----+ Sky +------+-------+ N. | W. | Var. |(in.) - |sunrise| 3 |sun-| |Course| Force | Lat. |Long. | | - | |p.m.|set | | | | | | | - -----+-------+----+----+-------+------+-------+---------+------+-------+----- - Jan.| | | | | | | | | - 1 |17-4/10|... | 11 |cloudy,| N E | fresh | ... | ... | ... | ... - | | | | snow | | | | | | - 2 | 2 |... | 20 |clear | E | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 3 |20 |... | 25 | do. | W | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 4 |23 |... | 25 | do. | W | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 5 |33-5/10|... | 20 | do. | E | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 6 |20 |... | 9 | snow | W | hard |46 deg.9'20" | ... | ... | ... - 7 |15-2/10|... | 1 |clear | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 8 | ... |... |... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 9 | ... |... |... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 10 | ... |... |... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 11 | ... |... |... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 12 | ... |... | 2 |clear | S E | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 13 |28-5/10|... | 6 | do. | ... | ... |46 deg.9'20" |22 deg.13'| ... | ... - 14 |24 |... | 1 | do. | N | ... |46 deg.9'20" | ... | 3 deg.41'W| ... - 15 |33-5/10|... | 6 | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 16 |19-8/10|... | 5 | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 17 | 6 | 23 | 20 | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 18 | 9 | 25 | 20 | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 19 | ... |... |... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 20 | ... |... |... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 21 | ... |... | 23 | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 22 |14 |... | 27 |clear | N W | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 23 |27 |... | 27 | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 24 |27 | 29 | 32 |cloudy |S by E| ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 25 | ... | 27 |... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 26 | ... | 5 |... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 27 | ... | 5 |... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 28 | 4 | 2 | 5 | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 29 | 5 | 14 | 11 | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 30 | 1 | 14 |... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 31 | 8 | 14 |... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - Feb.| | | | | | | | | | - 1 |10 | 7 | 5 |clear | ... | ... |47 deg.16'13"| ... | ... | ... - 2 | 5 | 9 | 14 | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 3 | 7 | 27 | 23 | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 4 | 1 | 9 | 1 | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 5 |10 | 14 | 7 | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 6 | 5 | 27 | 11 | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 7 | 2 | 23 | 20 | do. | W | fresh | ... | ... | ... | ... - 8 | 8 | 1 | 9 | do. | W | hard | ... | ... | ... | ... - 9 |17-5/10| 1 | 8 | snow | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 10 |17-5/10| 1 | 5 | do. | N E |gentle | ... | ... | ... | ... - 11 | 1 | 7 | 1 |clear | S E | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 12 | 5 | 16 | 1 | do. | N E | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 13 |23 | 36 | 32 |hail, |S by E| fresh | ... | ... | ... | ... - | | | |clouds | | | | | | - 14 |11 | 36 | 32 |clear | N W | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 15 | 5 | 20 | 16 | do. | N W | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 16 | 2 | 23 | 16 | do. | S W | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 17 | 5 | 32 | 32 |sleet, | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - | | | | snow | | | | | | - 18 |14 | 32 |... |clear | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 19 | ... |... | 20 | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 20 | 1 |... | 27 | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 21 |14 |... | 27 | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 22 |16 |... | 27 | do. | ... | ... |46 deg.32'32"| ... | ... | ... - 23 |14 |... | 23 | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 24 |16 |... | 20 | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 25 |11 |... | 25 | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 26 |23 |... | 36 | do. | S W | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 27 |16 |... | 11 | ... | N W | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 28 |16 |... |... | ... | N W | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - =====+=================+=======+==============+=========+======+=======+===== - -REMARKS.--Jan. 6th, Lake Sable. Jan. 7th, Absent for six days. Feb. -1st, Leech Lake. Feb. 22d, White Fish Lake. - - =====+==============+========+================+=========+======+=======+===== - |Thermometer | | Wind | | | |Baro- - | (degrees) | | | | | |meter - Date +----+----+----+ Sky +--------+-------+ N. | W. | Var. |(in.) - |sun-| 3 |sun-| | Course |Force | Lat. |Long. | | - |rise|p.m.|set | | | | | | | - -----+----+----+----+--------+--------+-------+---------+------+-------+----- - Mar.| | | | | | | | | | - 1 | 16 | ...| 16 | clear | S E | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 2 | 16 | ...| 20 | cloudy | S E | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 3 | 20 | ...| 43 | clear | E | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 4 | 20 | ...| 27 | do. | E | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 5 | 25 | ...| 29 | do. | ... | ... |45 deg.33'3" | ... | ... | ... - 6 | 36 | ...| 27 | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 7 | 29 | 41 | 27 | clear, | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - | | | | warm | | | | | | - 8 | 29 | 25 | 23 | cloudy | S E | hard | ... | ... | ... | ... - 9 | 36 | 43 | 41 | clear | S E | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 10 | 25 | 25 | 27 | do. | N E | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 11 | 32 | 36 | 38 | cloudy | S E | fresh | ... | ... | ... | ... - 12 | 34 | 47 | 38 | clear | N W | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 13 | 33 | 43 | 27 | do. | N W | ... |45 deg.14'8" | ... | ... | ... - 14 | 38 | 43 | 34 | do. | N W | fresh | ... | ... | ... | ... - 15 | 50 | 41 | 36 | do. | N | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 16 | 38 | 43 | 36 | do. | E | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 17 | 32 | 32 | 32 | snow | N W | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 18 | 32 | 32 | 32 | do. | N | do. |43 deg.44'8" | ... | ... | ... - 19 | 32 | 32 | 29 | do. | N E | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 20 | 29 | 38 | 29 | cloudy | N by E | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 21 | 9 | 32 | 20 | clear | N W | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 22 | 1 | 9 | 14 | do. | N E | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 23 | 7 | 32 | 32 | do. | E | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 24 | 5 | 25 | 32 | cloudy | N E | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 25 | 25 | 32 | 32 | snow | S E | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 26 | 11 | 25 | 27 | clear | E | fresh | ... | ... | ... | ... - 27 | 38 | 54 | 43 | do. | S E | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 28 | 36 | 41 | 43 | do. | S W | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 29 | 29 | 70 | 54 | do. | S E | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 30 | 52 | 56 | 43 | cloudy | N E | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 31 | 32 | 61 | 43 | clear | N E | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - Apr.| | | | | | | | | | - 1 | 29 | 61 | 43 | clear | N E | fresh | ... | ... | ... | ... - 2 | 34 | 74 | 63 | do. | S | hard | ... | ... | ... | ... - 3 | 45 | 70 | 43 | do. | N E | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 4 | 20 | 45 | 41 | do. | N E | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 5 | 29 | 45 | 38 | cloudy | N E | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 6 | 27 | 43 | 36 | do. | N E | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 7 | 23 | ...| 32 | snow | N E | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 8 | 41 | ...| 34 | cloudy | N | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 9 | 5 | 18 | 32 | clear | N E | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 10 | 5 | 54 | 25 | do. | N E | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 11 | 18 | 32 | 32 | snow | S E | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 12 | 10 | 54 | 43 | clear | S E | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 13 | 32 | 50 | 45 | do. | S E | hard | ... | ... | ... | ... - 14 | 38 | 50 | 45 | cloudy,| S E | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - | | | | rain | | | | | | - 15 | 34 | 52 | 32 | snow | S E | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 16 | 34 | 50 | 41 | do. | N W |fresh | ... | ... | ... | ... - 17 | 34 | 70 | 43 | clear | N W | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 18 | 45 | 92 | 63 | do. | N W | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 19 | 50 | 99 | 81 | do. | S E | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 20 | 59 | 95 | 79 | do. | S E | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 21 | 54 | 92 | 63 | cloudy | N W | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 22 | 43 | 63 | 52 | clear | N W |fresh | ... | ... | ... | ... - 23 | 36 | 72 | 63 | do. | S E | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - 24 | 43 | 70 | 61 | cloudy | S E | hard | ... | ... | ... | ... - 25 | 43 | 54 | 47 | cloudy,| S E | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - | | | | rain | | | | | | - 26 | 43 | 50 |... | do. | S E | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 27 | 43 | 95 | 77 | clear | N E |gentle | ... | ... | ... | ... - 28 | 43 | 81 | 72 | cloudy | S E | do. | ... | ... | ... | ... - 29 | 38 | 59 |... | rain | N W | ... | ... | ... | ... | ... - =====+==============+========+================+=========+======+=======+===== - -REMARKS.--Mar. 1st, Lower Red Cedar Lake. Mar. 6th, Snow at night. -Mar. 7th, Pine Creek. Mar. 9th, Very warm; ice melting fast. Mar. -11th, Raw and disagreeable. Mar. 12th, Ice melting fast. Mar. 15th, -Small snow in the night. Mar. 17th, Sleet and snow. Mar. 18th-19th, -Heavy snow. Mar. 20th, Thawing at noon; water rising. Mar. 21st, Cold. -Mar. 22d, Extraordinary cold. Mar. 24th, Sauteurs. Mar. 25th, Very -stormy. Mar. 26th, Moderate. Mar. 27th, Warm. Mar. 28th, Warm, -thunder, lightning. Mar. 29th, Warm, thunder, lightning, rain. Apr. -1st, Ice breaking up by degrees. Apr. 2d-3d, Ice commenced running. -Apr. 5th, Snow. Apr. 6th, River entirely breaks up. Apr. 8th, Snow, -hail. Apr. 9th, Remarkably cold. Apr. 11th, Snow falls three inches. - -FOOTNOTE: - -[IV-1] In the orig. ed. these Tables made five unpaged leaves, bound to -follow blank p. 106, and thus were appended to the main text of Pike's -itinerary, not put in the Appendix to Part I. It really makes little -difference where these Tables go, as nobody ever reads such matter. I -leave them where I find them, on the general principle of interfering -as little as possible with the original composition of the book, -simply introducing a chapter-head for their accommodation; and shall -pass this thrilling chapter without further remark. - - - - -CHAPTER V. - -CORRESPONDENCE AND CONFERENCES.[V-1] - - -_Art. 1. Letter, Pike to Wilkinson. (Orig. No. 1, pp. 1, 2.)_ - - HEAD OF THE RAPIDS DE MOYEN, Aug. 20th, 1805. - -DEAR GENERAL: - -I arrived here this day, after what I have considered as rather an -unfortunate voyage, having had a series of rainy weather for the first -six days, by which means all our biscuit was more or less damaged, -they being in very bad and open barrels; and our having got twice so -fast on forked sawyers or old trees as to oblige me partly to unload, -and staving in a plank on another [sawyer], which nearly sunk our boat -before we got on shore and detained us one whole day. These all -occasioned unavoidable detentions of two days, and the innumerable -islands and sand-bars which, without exaggeration, exceed those of the -river below the Ohio, have been the cause of much unexpected delay. -But I calculate on getting to Prairie de Chien in at least the same -time I was in coming [from St. Louis] here. - -We were met yesterday on the Rapids by Mr. William Ewing, who is sent -here by the government of the United States to teach the savages -agriculture; and who, I perceive in Governor Harrison's instructions, -is termed an agent of the United States, under the instructions of P. -Choteau, with, he says, a salary of $500 per annum. I conceived you -did not know of this functionary, else you would have mentioned him to -me. He was accompanied by Monsieur Louis Tisson Houire [Tesson -Honore[V-2]], who informed me he had calculated on going with me as my -interpreter; he said that you had spoken to him on the occasion, and -appeared much disappointed when I told him I had no instructions to -that effect. He also said he had promised to discover mines, etc., -which no person knew but himself; but, as I conceive him much of a -hypocrite, and possessing great gasconism, I am happy he was not -chosen for my voyage. They brought with them three peroques of -Indians, who lightened my barge and assisted me up the Rapids. They -expressed great regret at the news of two men having been killed on -the river below, which I believe to be a fact, as I have it from -various channels, and were very apprehensive they would be censured by -our government as the authors [of these murders], though from every -inquiry they conceive it not to be the case, and seem to ascribe the -murders to the Kickapoos. They strongly requested I would hear what -they had to say on the subject; this, with an idea that this place -would be a central position for a trading establishment for the Sacs, -Reynards, Iowas of the de Moyen, Sioux from the head of said [Des -Moines] river, and Paunte [Puants] of the de Roche [Rock river], has -induced me to halt part of the day to-morrow. I should say more -relative to Messrs. Ewing and Houire, only that they propose visiting -you with the Indians who descend, as I understand by your request, in -about 30 days, when your penetration will give you _le tout ensemble_ -of their characters [note 18, p. 15]. - -I have taken the liberty of inclosing a letter to Mrs. Pike to your -care. My compliments to Lieutenant Wilkinson, and the tender of my -highest respects for your lady, with the best wishes for your health -and prosperity. - - I am, General, - Your obedient servant, - [Signed] Z. M. PIKE. - - GENERAL WILKINSON. - - -_Art. 2. Letter, Pike to Wilkinson. (Orig. No. 2, pp. 2-4.)_ - - PRAIRIE DU CHIEN, Sept. 5th, 1805. - -DEAR GENERAL: - -I arrived here day before yesterday, and found my interpreter gone in -the employ of Mr. Dickson. I then endeavored to gain information -relative to crossing the falls; and amidst the ignorance of the -Canadians, and all the contradiction in the world, I have learned it -is impossible to carry my large barge round the shoot [chute]. I have -therefore hired two Schenectady barges, in which I shall embark day -after to-morrow, with some expectation and hope of seeing the head of -the Mississippi and the town of St. Louis yet this winter. - -I have chosen three places for military establishments. The first is -on a hill about 40 miles above the river de Moyen rapids, on the W. -side of the river, in about 41 deg. 2' N. latitude. The channel of the -river runs on that shore; the hill in front is about 60 feet -perpendicular, nearly level on the top; 400 yards in the rear is a -small prairie fit for gardening; over on the E. side of the river you -have an elegant view on an immense prairie, as far as the eye can -extend, now and then interrupted by clumps of trees; and, to crown -all, immediately under the hill is a limestone spring, sufficient for -the consumption of a regiment. The landing is good and bold, and at -the point of the hill a road could be made for a wagon in half a day. -This place I conceive to be the best to answer the general's -instructions relative to an intermediate post between Prairie de Chien -and St. Louis; but if its being on the W. bank is a material -objection, about 30 miles above the second Sac village at the third -yellow bank on the E. side is a commanding place, on a prairie and -most elegantly situated; but it is scarce of timber, and no water but -that of the Mississippi. When then thinking of the post to be -established at the Ouiscousing [mouth of Wisconsin river], I did not -look at the general's instructions. I therefore pitched on a spot on -the top of the hill on the W. side of the Mississippi [at or near -McGregor, Clayton Co., Ia.], which is ---- feet high, level on the -top, and completely commands both rivers, the Mississippi being only -one-half mile wide and the Ouiscousing about 900 yards when full. -There is plenty of timber in the rear, and a spring at no great -distance on the hill. If this position is to have in view the -annoyance of any European power who might be induced to attack it with -cannon, it has infinitely the preference to a position called the -Petit Gris on the Ouiscousing, which I visited and marked the next -day. This latter position is three miles up the Ouiscousing, on a -prairie hill on the W. side, where we should be obliged to get our -timber from the other side of the river, and our water out of it; -there is likewise a small channel which runs on the opposite side, -navigable in high water, which could not be commanded by the guns of -the fort, and a hill about three-quarters of a mile in the rear, from -which it could be cannonaded. These two positions I have marked by -blazing trees, etc. Mr. Fisher of this place will direct any officer -who may be sent to occupy them. I found the confluence of the -Ouiscousing and Mississippi to be in lat. 43 deg. 28' 8" N. - -The day of my arrival at the lead mines, I was taken with a fever -which, with Monsieur Dubuque's having no horses about his house, -obliged me to content myself with proposing to him the inclosed -queries [Art. 3]; the answers seem to carry with them the semblance of -equivocation. - -Messrs. Dubuque and Dickson were about sending a number of chiefs to -St. Louis, but the former confessing he was not authorized, I have -stopped them without in the least dissatisfying the Indians. - -Dickson is at Michilimackinac. I cannot say I have experienced much -spirit of accommodation from his clerks, when in their power to oblige -me; but I beg leave to recommend to your attention Mr. James Aird, who -is now in your country, as a gentleman to whose humanity and -politeness I am much indebted; also Mr. Fisher of this place, the -captain of militia and justice of the peace. - -A band of Sioux between here and the Mississippi have applied for two -medals, in order that they may have their chiefs distinguished as -friends of the Americans: if the general thinks proper to send them -here to the care of Mr. Fisher, with any other commands, they may -possibly meet me here, or at the falls of St. Anthony, on my return. - -[Lacuna here, indicating suppression of certain Spanish privacies.] - -The above suggestion would only be acceptable under the idea of our -differences with Spain being compromised; as should there be war, the -field of action is the sphere for young men, where they hope, or at -least aspire, to gather laurels or renown to smooth the decline of -age, or a glorious death. You see, my dear general, I write to you -like a person addressing a father; at the same time I hope you will -consider me, not only in a professional but a personal view, one who -holds you in the highest respect and esteem. My compliments to -Lieutenant Wilkinson, and my highest respects to your lady. - - I am, General, - Your obedient servant, - [Signed] Z. M. PIKE, Lt. - - GENERAL WILKINSON. - - -_Art. 3. The Dubuque Interrogation.[V-3] Queries proposed to Mr. -Dubuque, with his answers._ - -1. What is the date of your grant of the mines from the savages? - -_Ans._ The copy of the grant is in Mr. [Antoine Pierre] Soulard's -[Surveyor-general's] office at St. Louis. - -2. What is the date of the confirmation by the Spaniards? - -_Ans._ The same as to query first. - -3. What is the extent of your grant? - -_Ans._ The same as above. - -4. What is the extent of the mines? - -_Ans._ Twenty-eight or twenty-seven leagues long, and from one to -three broad. - -5. Lead made per annum? - -_Ans._ From 20,000 to 40,000 pounds. - -6. Quantity of lead per cwt. of mineral? - -_Ans._ Seventy-five per cent. - -7. Quantity of lead in pigs? - -_Ans._ All we make, as we neither manufacture bar, sheet-lead, nor -shot. - -8. If mixed with any other mineral? - -_Ans._ We have seen some copper, but having no person sufficiently -acquainted with chemistry to make the experiment properly, cannot say -as to the proportion it bears to the lead. - - [Signed] Z. M. PIKE. - - DUBUQUE LEAD MINES, Sept. 1st, 1805. - - -_Art. 4. Speech, Pike to the Sioux[V-4] (Part of Orig. No. 3, pp. -6-8), delivered at the entrance of the river St. Peter's, Sept. 23d, -1803._ - -BROTHERS: I am happy to meet you here at this council fire, which your -father has sent me to kindle, and to take you by the hands as our -children, we having lately acquired from the Spanish [read French] the -extensive territory of Louisiana. Our general has thought proper to -send out a number of his young warriors to visit all his red children, -to tell them his will, and to hear what request they may have to make -of their father. I am happy the choice has fallen on me to come this -road; as I find my brothers, the Sioux, ready to listen to my words. - -BROTHERS: It is the wish of our government to establish military posts -on the Upper Mississippi, at such places as may be thought expedient. -I have therefore examined the country, and have pitched on the mouth -of the St. Croix, this place [mouth of the Minnesota river], and the -Falls of St. Anthony. I therefore wish you to grant to the United -States nine miles square at St. Croix; and at this place, from a -league below the confluence of St. Peter's and the Mississippi to a -league above St. Anthony, extending three leagues on each side of the -river. As we are a people who are accustomed to have all our acts -written down, in order to have them handed down to our children, I -have drawn up a form of an agreement which we will both sign in the -presence of the traders now present. After we know the terms we will -fill it up, and have it read and interpreted to you. - -BROTHERS: Those posts are intended as a benefit to you. The old -chiefs now present must see that their situation improves by -communication with the whites. It is the intention of the United -States to establish factories at those posts, in which the Indians may -procure all their things at a cheaper and better rate then they do -now, or than your traders can afford to sell them to you, as they are -single men who come far in small boats. But your fathers are many and -strong; they will come with a strong arm, in large boats. There will -also be chiefs here, who can attend to the wants of their brothers, -without your sending or going all the way to St. Louis; they will see -the traders that go up your rivers, and know that they are good men. - -BROTHERS: Another object your father has at heart, is to endeavor to -make peace between you and the Chipeways. You have now been a long -time at war, and when will you stop? If neither side will lay down the -hatchet, your paths will always be red with blood; but if you will -consent to make peace, and suffer your father to bury the hatchet -between you, I will endeavor to bring down some of the Chipeway chiefs -with me to St. Louis, where the good work can be completed under the -auspices of your mutual father. I am much pleased to see that the -young warriors have halted to hear my words this day; and as I know it -is hard for a warrior to be struck and not strike again, I will send -word to the chiefs by the first Chipeway I meet, that, if they have -not yet felt your tomahawk, it is not because you have not the legs or -the hearts of men, but because you have listened to the voice of your -father. - -BROTHERS: If their chiefs do not listen to the voice of their father, -and continue to commit murders on you and our traders, they will call -down the vengeance of the Americans; for they are not like a blind man -walking into the fire. They were once at war with us, and joined to -all the northern Indians; they were defeated at Roche De Boeuff, and -were obliged to sue for peace; that peace we granted them. They know -we are not children, but, like all wise people, are slow to shed -blood. - -BROTHERS: Your old men probably know that about 30 years ago we were -subject to and governed by the king of the English; but he not -treating us like children, we would no longer acknowledge him as -father; and after ten years' war, in which he lost 100,000 men, he -acknowledged us a free and independent nation. They know that not many -years since we received Detroit, Michilimackinac, and all the posts on -the lakes from the English; and now--but the other day--Louisiana from -the Spanish [French]; so that we put one foot on the sea at the east -and the other on the sea at the west; and if once children, are now -men. Yet, I think the traders who come from Canada are bad birds -amongst the Chipeways, and instigate them to make war on their red -brothers the Sioux, in order to prevent our traders from going high up -the Mississippi. This I shall inquire into, and if it be so, shall -warn those persons of their ill conduct. - -BROTHERS: Mr. Choteau was sent by your father to the Osage nation, -with one of his young chiefs.[V-5] He sailed some days before me, and -had not time to procure the medals which I am told he promised to send -up; but they will be procured. - -BROTHERS: I wish you to have some of your head chiefs ready to go down -with me in the spring. From the head of the St. Pierre also, such -other chiefs as you may think proper, to the number of four or five. -When I pass here on my way I will send you word at what time you will -meet me at the Prairie des Chiens. - -BROTHERS: I expect that you will give orders to all your young -warriors to respect my flag, and its protection which I may extend to -the Chipeway chiefs who may come down with me in the spring; for were -a dog to run to my lodge for safety, his enemy must walk over me to -hurt him. - -BROTHERS: Here is a flag, which I wish to send to the Gens de -Feuilles, to show them they are not forgotten by their father. I wish -the comrade of their chief to take it on himself to deliver it with my -words. - -BROTHERS: I am told that hitherto the traders have made a practice of -selling rum to you. All of you in your right senses must know that it -is injurious, and occasions quarrels, murders, etc., amongst -yourselves. For this reason your father has thought proper to prohibit -the traders from selling you any rum. Therefore, I hope my brothers -the chiefs, when they know of a trader who sells an Indian rum, will -prevent that Indian from paying his [that trader's] credit. This will -break up the pernicious practice and oblige your father. But I hope -you will not encourage your young men to treat our traders ill from -this circumstance, or from a hope of the indulgence formerly -experienced; but make your complaints to persons in this country, who -will be authorized to do you justice. - -BROTHERS: I now present you with some of your father's tobacco and -other trifling things, as a memorandum of my good will; and before my -departure I will give you some liquor to clear your throats. - - -_Art 5. The Sioux Treaty[V-6] of Sept. 23d, 1805._ (_Part of Orig. No. -3, pp. 8, 9._) - -Whereas, at a conference held between the United States of America and -the Sioux nation of Indians: lieutenant Z. M. Pike, of the army of the -United States, and the chiefs and the warriors of said tribe, have -agreed to the following articles, which, when ratified and approved of -by the proper authority, shall be binding on both parties. - -_Art. 1._ That the Sioux nation grant unto the United States, for the -purpose of establishment of military posts, nine miles square at the -mouth of the St. Croix,[*] also from below the confluence of the -Mississippi and St. Peters up the Mississippi to include the falls of -St. Anthony, extending nine miles on each side of the river, that the -Sioux nation grants to the United States the full sovereignty and -power over said district for ever. - -[*] My demand was one league below: their reply was "from -below."--I imagine (without iniquity) they may be made to agree. -[Orig. Note.] - -_Art. 2._ That, in consideration of the above grants, the United -States shall pay (filled up by the senate with 2000 dollars.) - -_Art. 3._ The United States promise, on their part, to permit the -Sioux to pass and repass, hunt, or make other use of the said -districts as they have formerly done without any other exception than -those specified in article first. - - In testimony whereof we, the undersigned, have - hereunto set our hands and seals, at the mouth - of the river St. Peters, on the 23d day of - September, 1805. - - Z. M. PIKE, 1st lieut. (L. S.) - and agent at the above conference. - - his - LE PETIT CORBEAU, x (L. S.) - mark - - his - WAY AGO ENAGEE, x (L. S.) - mark - - - -_Art. 6. Letter, Pike to Wilkinson. (Orig. No. 4, pp. 9-13.)_ - - ST. PETERS, NINE MILES BELOW THE FALLS - OF ST. ANTHONY, Sept. 23d, 1805. - -DEAR GENERAL: - -I arrived here two days since, but shall not be able to depart before -day after to-morrow. Three of my men have been up to view the falls, -but their reports are so contradictory that no opinion can be formed -from them. - -All the young warriors of the two villages of Sioux near this place, -and many chiefs, had marched against the Chipeways, to revenge a -stroke made on their people, the very day after their return from -their visit to the Illinois; ten persons were then killed on this -ground. I yesterday saw the mausoleum in which all their bodies are -deposited, and which is yet daily marked with the blood of those who -swear to revenge them. But a runner headed them, and yesterday they -all arrived--about 250 persons, in company with those who were in the -ponds gathering rice. Amidst the yelling of the mourners and the -salutes of the warriors there was a scene worthy the pen of a -Robertson [qu. Rev. Wm. Robertson, the Scottish historian, b. 1721, d. -1793?] - -To-day I held a council on the beach, and made them a speech, in which -I touched on a variety of subjects; but the principal points were, -obtaining the lands as specified in the within articles,[V-7] making -peace with the Chipeways, and granting such [Chipeway] chiefs as -might accompany me down to visit you a safe conduct through their -[Sioux] country. These ends were accomplished. You will perceive that -we have obtained about 100,000 acres for a song. You will please to -observe, General, that the 2d article, relative to consideration, is -blank. The reasons for it were as follows: I had to fee privately two -of the chiefs, and beside that to make them presents at the council of -articles which would in this country be valued at $200, and the others -about $50; part of these things were private property purchased here, -such as a few scarlet shrouds [strouds], etc. These I was not -furnished by the United States; and although the chiefs in the council -presented me with the land, yet it is possible your Excellency may -think proper to insert the amount of those articles as the -considerations to be specified in Article 2d. They have bound me up to -many assurances that the posts shall be established; also, that if the -Chipeways are obstinate, and continue to kill the Indians who bear our -flags (the Chipeways on the Upper Mississippi bearing the English -flag) and our traders, we will take them in hand and teach them to lay -down the hatchet, as we have once already done. This I was the rather -induced to say, as there were some persons present who, although -trading under your licenses, I know to be British subjects. A chief by -the name of Elan Levie [Elan Leve[V-8]], then told me to look round on -those young warriors on the beach; that not only they, but those of -six villages more, were at our command. If possible, I will endeavor -to note down their several speeches, and show them you on my return. - -I have not a doubt of making Lake Sable [Sandy lake] in pretty good -season; but they inform me the source of the river is in Lake La Sang -Sue [Leech lake], about 60 leagues further. This I must also see, and -hope the General approves of my determination. At those two lakes -there are establishments of the N. W. Company. These are both in our -country, and time and circumstances only can determine in what manner -I shall conduct myself toward them.[*] Mr. [Hugh] M'Gillis, whose -father was a refugee and had his estate confiscated by the Americans, -has charge of those factories. He, they say, is a sworn enemy of the -United States. This was told me by a man who I expect was a friend of -the N. W. Company; but it had quite a contrary effect to what he -intended it to have, as I am determined, should he attempt anything -malicious toward me--open force he dare not--to spare no pains to -punish him. In fact, the dignity and honor of our government requires -that they should be taught to gather their skins in quiet, but even -then not in a clandestine manner. Added to this, they are the very -instigators of the war between the Chipeways and Sioux, in order that -they may monopolize the trade of the Upper Mississippi. - -[*] Incorrect--he being a Scotchman, a gentleman, and a man of -honor; but this was the information I received at the St. Peters. -[Orig. Note.] - -The chiefs who were at Saint Louis this spring gave up their English -medals to Mr. Chouteau. He promised them to obtain American medals in -return, and send them up by some officer. They applied to me for them, -and said they were their commissions--their only distinguishing mark -from the other warriors. I promised them that I would write you on the -occasion, and that you would remedy the evil. The chiefs were very -loath to sign the articles relative to the land, asserting that their -word of honor for the gift was sufficient, that it was an impeachment -of their probity to require them to bind themselves further, etc. This -is a small sample of their way of thinking. - -I must mention something to your Excellency relative to the man -recommended to me by Mr. Chouteau as interpreter. At the time he -solicited this employ he was engaged to Mr. [Robert] Dickson, and on -my arrival at the Prairie [du Chien] was gone up the St. Peters. I -understand he is to be recommended for the appointment of interpreter -to the United States in this quarter. On the contrary, I beg leave to -recommend for that appointment Mr. Joseph Reinville, who served as -interpreter for the Sioux last spring at the Illinois, and who has -gratuitously and willingly, by permission of Mr. [James] Frazer, to -whom he is engaged, served as my interpreter in all my conferences -with the Sioux. He is a man respected by the Indians, and I believe an -honest one. I likewise beg leave to recommend to your attention Mr. -Frazer, one of the two gentlemen who dined with you, and was destined -for the Upper Mississippi. He waited eight or ten days at Prairie [du -Chien] for me, detained his interpreter, and thenceforward has -continued to evince a zeal to promote the success of my expedition by -every means in his power. He is a Vermonter born, and, although not -possessing the advantages of a polished education, inherits that -without which an education serves but to add to frivolity of -character--candor, bravery, and that _amor patria_ which distinguishes -the good of every nation, from Nova Zembla to the [Equatorial] line. - -Finding that the traders were playing the devil with their rum, I -yesterday in council informed the Indians that their father had -prohibited the selling of liquor to them, and that they would oblige -him and serve themselves if they would prevent their young men from -paying the credits of any trader who sold rum to them, at the same -time charging the chiefs to treat them well; as their father, although -good, would not again forgive them, but punish with severity any -injuries committed on their traders. This, I presume, General, is -agreeable to the spirit of the laws. Mr. Frazer immediately set the -example, by separating his spirits from the merchandise in his boats, -and returning it to the Prairie, although it would materially injure -him if the other traders retained and sold theirs. In fact, unless -there are some persons at our posts here, when established, who have -authority effectually to stop the evil by confiscating the liquors, -etc., it will still be continued by the weak and malevolent. - -I shall forbear giving you a description of this place until my -return, except only to observe that the position for this post is on -the point [where Fort Snelling now stands], between the two rivers, -which equally commands both; and for that at the St. Croix, on the -hill on the lower side of the entrance, on the E. bank of the -Mississippi [now Prescott, Pierce Co., Wis.]. Owing to cloudy weather, -etc., I have taken no observation here; but the head of Lake Pepin is -in 44 deg. 58' 8" N., and we have made very little northing since. The -Mississippi is 130 yards wide, and the St. Peters 80 yards at their -confluence. - -_Sept. 24th._ This morning Little Corbeau came to see me from the -village, he having recovered an article which I suspected had been -taken by the Indians. He told me many things which the ceremony of the -council would not permit his delivering there; and added, he must tell -me that Mr. Roche, who went up the river St. Peters, had in his -presence given two kegs of rum to the Indians. The chief asked him why -he did so, as he knew it was contrary to the orders of his father, -adding that Messrs. Mareir and Tremer[V-9] had left their rum behind -them, but that he alone had rum, contrary to orders. Roche then gave -the chief 15 bottles of rum, as I suppose to bribe him to silence. I -presume he should be taught the impropriety of his conduct when he -applies for his license next year. - - - ABOVE THE FALLS OF ST. ANTHONY, Sept. 26th. - -The cloudy weather still continues, and I have not been able to take -the latitude. Mr. Frazer has been kind enough to send two of his -people across from the Sioux town on the St. Peters for my dispatches, -and the place being dangerous for them, I must haste to dispatch them. -Of course, General, the following short sketch of the falls will -merely be from _le coup d'oeuil_. The place where the river falls -over the rocks appears to be about 15 feet perpendicular, the sheet -being broken by one large island on the E. and a small one on the W., -the former commencing below the shoot and extending 500 yards above; -the river then falls through a continued bed of rocks, with a descent -of at least 50 feet perpendicular in the course of half a mile. Thence -to the St. Peters, a distance of 11 miles by water, there is almost -one continued rapid, aggravated by the interruption of 12 small -islands. The carrying-place has two hills, one of 25 feet, the other -of 12, with an elevation of 45 deg., and is about three-fourths of a mile -in length. Above the shoot, the river is of considerable width; but -below, at this time, I can easily cast a stone over it. The rapid or -suck continues about half a mile above the shoot, when the water -becomes calm and deep. My barges are not yet over, but my trucks are -preparing, and I have not the least doubt of succeeding. - -The general, I hope, will pardon the tautologies and egotisms of my -communications, as he well knows Indian affairs are productive of such -errors, and that in a wilderness, detached from the civilized world, -everything, even if of little import, becomes magnified in the eyes of -the beholder. When I add that my hands are blistered in working over -the rapids, I presume it will apologize for the manner and style of my -communications. - -I flatter myself with hearing from you at the Prairie, on my way down. - - I am, General, - Your obedient servant, - [Signed] Z. M. PIKE, Lt. - - GENERAL WILKINSON. - - -_Art. 7.[V-10] Instructions, Pike to Sergeant Henry Kennerman. (Orig. -No. 16, pp. 33, 34.)_ - - PINE CREEK RAPIDS, Oct. 1st, 1805. - -You are to remain here with the party under your command, subject to -the following instructions: Your guards to consist of one -non-commissioned officer and three privates, yourself mounting in -regular rotation, making one sentinel by day and by night; until your -position is inclosed by pickets, every man is to be employed on that -object; after which Sparks is to be employed in hunting; but this will -by no means excuse him from his tour of guard at night when in the -stockade, but he must be relieved during the day by another man. - -Should any Indians visit you previous to having your works complete, -divide your men between the two blockhouses, and on no conditions -suffer a savage to enter the one where the stores are, and not more -than one or two into the other; but should you be so fortunate as not -to be discovered until your works are completed, you may admit three, -without arms, and no more, to enter at once, at the same time always -treating them with as much friendship as is consistent with your own -safety. - -You are furnished with some tobacco to present them with, but on no -condition are you ever to give them one drop of liquor; inform them -that I have taken it all with me. From the arrangements I have made -with the Sioux it is presumable they will treat you with friendship; -but the Chipeways may be disposed to hostilities, and, should you be -attacked, calculate on surrendering only with your life. Instruct your -men not to fire at random, nor ever, unless the enemy is near enough -to make him a point-blank shot. This you must particularly attend to, -and punish the first man found acting in contradiction thereto. The -greatest economy must be used with the ammunition and provisions. Of -the latter I shall furnish Sparks his proportion; and at any time -should a man accompany him for a day's hunt, furnish him with four or -five balls and extra powder, and on his return take what is left away -from him. The provisions must be issued agreeably to the following -proportion: For four days N. 80 lbs. of fresh venison, elk, or -buffalo, or 60 lbs. fresh bear meat, with one quart of salt for that -period. The remainder of what is killed keep frozen in the open air as -long as possible, or salt and smoke it, so as to lay up meat for my -party and us all to descend the river with. If you are obliged, -through the failure of your hunter, to issue out of our reserved -provisions, you will deliver, for four days, 18 lbs. of pork or bacon, -and 18 lbs. of flour only. This will be sufficient, and must in no -instance be exceeded. No whisky will be issued after the present -barrel is exhausted, at half a gill per man per day. - -Our boats are turned up near your gate. You will make a barrel of -pitch, and give them a complete repairing to be ready for us to -descend in. - -I have delivered to you my journals and observations to this place, -with a letter accompanying them to his Excellency, General James -Wilkinson, which, should I not return by the time hereafter specified, -you will convey to him and deliver personally, requesting his -permission to deliver the others committed to your charge. - -You will observe the strictest discipline and justice in your command. -I expect the men will conduct themselves in such a manner that there -will be no complaints made on my return, and that they will be ready -to account to a higher tribunal. The date of my return is uncertain; -but let no information or reports, except from under my own hand, -induce you to quit this place until one month after the ice has broken -up at the head of the river; when, if I am not arrived, it will be -reasonable to suppose that some disastrous events detain us, and you -may repair to St. Louis. You are taught to discriminate between my -baggage and United States' property. The latter deliver to the -assistant military agent at St. Louis, taking his receipts for the -same; the former, if in your power, to Mrs. Pike. - -Your party is regularly supplied with provisions, to include the 8th -of December only, from which time you are entitled to draw on the -United States. - - [Signed] Z. M. PIKE, Lt. - - -_Art. 8. Letter, Pike to Hugh M'Gillis. (Orig. No. 5, pp. 14-16.)_ - - N. W. ESTABLISHMENT ON LEECH LAKE, - Feb. [6th], 1805. - - SIR: - -As [you are] a proprietor of the N. W. Company and director of the -Zond [Fond] du Lac department, I conceive it my duty as an officer of -the United States, in whose territory you are, to address you solely -on the subject of the many houses under your instructions. As a member -of the greatest commercial nation in the world, and of a company long -renowned for their extent of connections and greatness of views, you -cannot be ignorant of the rigor of the laws of the duties on imports -of a foreign power. - -Mr. Jay's treaty, it is true, gave the right of trade with the savages -to British subjects in the United States territories, but by no means -exempted them from paying the duties, obtaining licenses, and -subscribing unto all the rules and restrictions of our laws. I find -your establishments at every suitable place along the whole extent of -the south side of Lake Superior to its head, thence to the source of -the Mississippi, and down Red River, and even extending to the center -of our newly acquired territory of Louisiana, in which it will -probably yet become a question between the two governments, whether -our treaties will authorize British subjects to enter into the Indian -trade on the same footing as in the other parts of our frontiers, -this not having been an integral part of the United States at the time -of said treaty. Our traders to the south, on the Lower Mississippi, -complain to our government, with justice, that the members of the N. -W. Company encircle them on the frontiers of our N. W. territory, and -trade with the savages upon superior terms to what they can afford, -who pay the duties on their goods imported from Europe, and subscribe -to the regulations prescribed by law. - -These representations have at length attracted the attention of our -government to the object in question, and, with an intention to do -themselves as well as citizens justice, they last year took some steps -to ascertain the facts and make provision against the growing evil. -With this, and also with some geographical and local objects in view, -was I dispatched with discretionary orders, with a party of troops, to -the source of the Mississippi. I have found, Sir, your commerce and -establishments extending beyond our most exaggerated ideas; and in -addition to the injury done our revenue by evasion of the duties, -other acts done which are more particularly injurious to the honor and -dignity of our government. The transactions alluded to are the -presenting medals of his Britannic Majesty, and flags of the said -government, to the chiefs and warriors resident in the territory of -the United States. As political subjects are strictly prohibited to -our traders, what would be the ideas of the executive to see -foreigners making chiefs, and distributing flags, the standard of an -European power? The savages being accustomed to look on that standard, -which was the only prevailing one for years, as that which alone has -authority in the country, it would not be in the least astonishing to -see them revolt from the United States' limited subjection which is -claimed over them by the American government, and thereby be the cause -of their receiving a chastisement which, although necessary, yet would -be unfortunate, as they would have been led astray by the policy of -the traders of your country. - -I must likewise observe, Sir, that your establishments, if properly -known, would be looked on with an eye of dissatisfaction by our -government, for another reason, viz., there being so many furnished -posts, in case of a rupture between the two powers the English -government would not fail to make use of those as places of deposit of -arms, ammunition, etc., to be distributed to the savages who joined -their arms, to the great annoyance of our territory, and the loss of -the lives of many of our citizens. Your flags, Sir, when hoisted in -inclosed works, are in direct contradiction of the law of nations, and -their practice in like cases, which only admits of foreign flags being -expanded on board of vessels, and at the residences of ambassadors or -consuls. I am not ignorant of the necessity of your being in such a -position as to protect yourself from the sallies of drunken savages, -or the more deliberate plans of intending plunderers; and under those -considerations have I considered your stockades. - -You, and the company of which you are a member, must be conscious from -the foregoing statement that strict justice would demand, and I assure -you that the law directs, under similar circumstances, a total -confiscation of your property, personal imprisonment, and fines. But -having discretionary instructions and no reason to think the above -conduct to be dictated through ill-will or disrespect to our -government, and conceiving it in some degree departing from the -character of an officer to embrace the first opportunity of executing -those laws, I am willing to sacrifice my prospect of private -advantage, conscious that the government looks not to its interest, -but to its dignity in the transaction. I have therefore to request of -you assurances on the following heads which, setting aside the -chicanery of law, as a gentleman you will strictly adhere to: - -1st. That you will make representations to your agents, at your -headquarters on Lake Superior, of the quantity of goods wanted the -ensuing spring for your establishments in the territory of the United -States, in time sufficient (or as early as possible) for them to -enter them at the C. H. of Michilimackinac, and obtain a clearance and -license to trade in due form. - -2d. That you will give immediate instructions to all the posts in said -territory under your direction, at no time and under no pretense -whatever to hoist, or suffer to be hoisted, the English flag. If you -conceive a flag necessary, you may make use of that of the United -States, which is the only one which can be admitted. - -3d. That you will on no further occasion present a flag or medal to an -Indian, or hold councils with any of them on political subjects, or -others foreign from that of trade; but that, on being applied to on -those heads, you will refer them to the American agents, informing -them that these are the only persons authorized to hold councils of a -political nature with them. - -There are many other subjects, such as the distribution of liquor, -etc., which would be too lengthy to be treated of in detail. But the -company will do well to furnish themselves with our laws regulating -commerce with the savages, and regulate themselves in our territories -accordingly. - -I embrace this opportunity to acknowledge myself and command under -singular obligations to yourself and agents for the assistance which -you have rendered us, and the polite treatment with which we have been -honored. With sentiments of high respect for the establishment and -yourself, - - I am, Sir, - Your obedient servant, - Z. M. PIKE. - - HUGH M'GILLIS, Esq., - Proprietor and Agent of the N. W. Company - established at Zond [Fond] Du Lac. - - -_Art. 9. Letter, Hugh M'Gillis to Pike. (Orig. No. 6, pp. 17-19.)_ - - LEECH LAKE, Feb. 15th, 1806. - - SIR: - -Your address presented on the 6th inst. has attracted my most serious -consideration to the several objects of duties on importations; of -presents made to, and our consultations with, Indians; of inclosing -our stores and dwelling-houses; and finally, of the custom obtaining -to hoist the British flag in the territory belonging to the United -States of America. I shall at as early a period as possible present -the agents of the N. W. Company with your representations regarding -the paying duties on the importation of goods to be sent to our -establishments within the bounds of the territory of the United -States, as also their being entered at the custom house of -Michilimackinac; but I beg to be allowed to present for consideration, -that the major part of the goods necessary to be sent to the said -establishments for the trade of the ensuing year, are now actually in -our stores at Kamanitiguia, our headquarters on Lake Superior, and -that it would cause us vast expense and trouble to be obliged to -convey those goods back to Michilimackinac to be entered at the -custom-house office. We therefore pray that the word of gentlemen with -regard to the quantity and quality of the said goods, to be sent to -said establishment, may be considered as equivalent to the certainty -of a custom-house register. Our intention has never been to injure -your traders, paying the duties established by law. We hope those -representations to your government respecting our concerns with the -Indians may have been dictated with truth, and not exaggerated by envy -to prejudice our interests and to throw a stain on our character which -may require time to efface from the minds of a people to whom we must -ever consider ourselves indebted for that lenity of procedure of which -the present is so notable a testimony. The inclosures to protect our -stores and dwelling-houses from the insults and barbarity of savage -rudeness, have been erected for the security of my property and person -in a country, till now, exposed to the wild will of the frantic -Indians. We never formed the smallest idea that the said inclosures -might ever be useful in the juncture of a rupture between the two -powers, nor do we now conceive that such poor shifts will ever be -employed by the British government in a country overshadowed with wood -so adequate to every purpose. Forts might in a short period of time be -built far superior to any stockades we may have occasion to erect. - -We were not conscious, Sir, of the error I acknowledge we have been -guilty of committing, by exhibiting to view on your territory any -standard of Great Britain. I will pledge myself to your government, -that I will use my utmost endeavors, as soon as possible, to prevent -the future display of the British flag, or the presenting of medals, -or the exhibiting to public view any other mark of European power, -throughout the extent of territory known to belong to the dominion of -the United States. The custom has long been established and we -innocently and inoffensively, as we imagined, have conformed to it -till the present day. - -Be persuaded that on no consideration shall any Indian be entertained -on political subjects, or on any affairs foreign to our trade; and -that reference shall be made to the American agents, should any -application be made worthy such reference. Be also assured that we, as -a commercial company, must find it ever our interests to interfere as -little as possible with affairs of government in the course of trade, -ignorant as we are in this rude and distant country of the political -views of nations. - -We are convinced that the inestimable advantages arising from the -endeavors of your government to establish a more peaceful course of -trade in this part of the territory belonging to the United States are -not acquired through the mere liberality of a nation, and we are ready -to contribute to the expense necessarily attending them. We are not -averse to paying the common duties established by law, and will ever -be ready to conform ourselves to all rules and regulations of trade -that may be established according to common justice. - -I beg to be allowed to say that we have reason to hope that every -measure will be adopted to secure and facilitate the trade with the -Indians; and these hopes seem to be confirmed beyond the smallest idea -of doubt, when we see a man sent among us who, instead of private -considerations to pecuniary views, prefers the honor, dignity, and -lenity of his government, and whose transactions are in every respect -so conformable to equity. When we behold an armed force ready to -protect or chastise as necessity or policy may direct, we know not how -to express our gratitude to that people whose only view seems to be to -promote the happiness of all, the savages that rove over the wild -confines of their domains not excepted. - -It is to you, Sir, we feel ourselves most greatly indebted, whose -claim to honor, esteem, and respect will ever be held in high -estimation by myself and associates. The danger and hardships, by your -fortitude vanquished and by your perseverance overcome, are signal, -and will ever be preserved in the annals of the N. W. Company. Were it -solely from consideration of those who have exposed their lives in a -long and perilous march through a country where they had every -distress to suffer, and many dangers to expect,--and this with a view -to establish peace in a savage country,--we should think ourselves -under the most strict obligation to assist them. But we know we are in -a country where hospitality and gratitude are to be considered above -every other virtue, and therefore have offered for their relief what -our poor means will allow: and, Sir, permit me to embrace this -opportunity to testify that I feel myself highly honored by your -acceptance of such accommodations as my humble roof could afford. - -With great consideration and high respect for the government of the -United States, allow me to express my esteem and regard for yourself. - - I am, Sir, - Your obedient humble servant, - [Signed] H. M'GILLIS, - Of N. W. Company - - LIEUT. PIKE, - 1st. Regt. United States Infantry. - - -_Art. 10. Speech, Pike to the Sauteaux, in a Council at Leech Lake, -Feb. 16th, 1806. (Orig. No. 7, pp. 19-22.)_ - -BROTHERS: A few months since the Spaniards shut up the mouth of the -Mississippi, and prevented the Americans from floating down to the -sea. This your father, the President of the United States, would not -admit of. He therefore took such measures as to open the river, remove -the Spaniards from both sides of the Mississippi to a great distance -on the other side of the Missouri, and open the road from the ocean of -the east to that of the west. The Americans being then at peace with -all the world, your great father, the President of the United States, -began to look round on his red children, in order to see what he could -do to render them happy and sensible of his protection. For that -purpose he sent two of his Captains, Lewis and Clark, up the Missouri, -to pass on to the west sea, in order to see all his new children, to -go round the world that way, and return by water. They stayed the -first winter at the Mandane's[V-11] village, where you might have heard -of them. This year your great father directed his great war-chief -(General Wilkinson) at St. Louis, to send a number of his young -warriors up the Missouri, Illinois, Osage River, and other courses, to -learn the situation of his red children, to encourage the good, punish -the bad, and make peace between them all by persuading them to lay by -the hatchet and follow the young warriors to St. Louis, where the -great war-chief will open their ears that they may hear the truth, and -their eyes, to see what is right. - -BROTHERS: I was chosen to ascend the Mississippi, to bear to his red -children the words of their father; and the Great Spirit has opened -the eyes and ears of all the nations that I have passed to listen to -my words. The Sauks and Reynards are planting corn and raising cattle. -The Winnebagos continue peaceable, as usual, and even the Sioux have -laid by the hatchet at my request. Yes, my brothers, the Sioux, who -have so long and so obstinately waged war against the Chipeways, have -agreed to lay by the hatchet, smoke the calumet, and become again your -brothers, as they were wont to be.[V-12] - -BROTHERS: You behold the pipe of Wabasha as a proof of what I say. -Little Corbeau, Tills [Fils] De Pinchow, and L'Aile Rouge had marched -250 warriors to revenge the blood of their women and children, slain -last year at the St. Peters. I sent a runner after them, stopped their -march, and met them in council at the mouth of the St. Peters, where -they promised to remain peaceable until my return; and if the -Ouchipawah [Chippewa] chiefs accompanied me, to receive them as -brothers and accompany us to St. Louis, there to bury the hatchet and -smoke the pipe in the presence of our great war-chief; and to request -him to punish those who first broke the peace. - -BROTHERS: I sent flags and a message up the St. Peters to the bands of -Sioux on that river, requesting them to remain quiet, and not to go to -war. The People of the Leaves [Gens des Feuilles] received my message -and sent me word that they would obey; but the Yanctongs and -Sussitongs had left the St. Peters previous to my message arriving, -and did not receive it. When I left my fort they had appointed a day -for 50 of their chiefs and warriors to come and see me, but I could -not wait for them; so that, as to their dispositions for peace or war, -I cannot answer positively. - -BROTHERS: I have therefore come to fetch some of your approved chiefs -with me to St. Louis. - -BROTHERS: In speaking to you I speak to brave warriors. It is -therefore not my intention to deceive you. Possibly we may meet with -some bad people who may wish to do us ill; but if so, we will die -together, certain that our fathers, the Americans, will settle with -them for our blood. - -BROTHERS: I find you have received from your traders English medals -and flags. These you must deliver up, and your chiefs who go with me -shall receive others from the American government, in their room. - -BROTHERS: Traders have no authority to make chiefs; and in doing this -they have done what is not right. It is only great chiefs, appointed -by your fathers, who have that authority. But at the same time you are -under considerable obligations to your traders, who come over large -waters, high mountains, and up swift falls, to supply you with -clothing for your women and children, and ammunition for your hunters, -to feed you, and keep you from perishing with cold. - -BROTHERS: Your chiefs should see your traders done justice, oblige -your young men to pay their credits, and protect them from insults; -and your traders, on their part, must not cheat the Indians, but give -them the value of their skins. - -BROTHERS: Your father is going to appoint chiefs of his own to reside -among you, to see justice done to his white and red children, who will -punish those who deserve punishment, without reference to the color of -their skin. - -BROTHERS: I understand that one of your young men killed an American -at Red Lake last year, but the murderer is far off. Let him keep -so--send him where we never may hear of him more; for were he here I -would be obliged to demand him of you, and make my young men shoot -him. My hands on this journey are yet clear of blood--may the Great -Spirit keep them so! - -BROTHERS: We expect, in the summer, soldiers to come to the St. -Peters. Your chiefs who go with me may either come up with them, or -some traders who return sooner. They may make their selection. - -BROTHERS: Your father finds that the rum with which you are supplied -by the traders is the occasion of quarrels, murders, and bloodshed; -and that, instead of buying clothing for your women and children, you -spend your skins in liquor, etc. He has determined to direct his young -warriors and chiefs to prohibit it, and keep it from among you. But I -have found the traders here with a great deal of rum on hand. I have -therefore given them permission to sell what they have, that you may -forget it by degrees, against next year, when none will be suffered to -come in the country. - - -_Art. 11. Speeches, Chippewa Chiefs[V-13] to Pike, at Leech Lake, Feb. -16th, 1806. (Orig. No. 8, pp. 22, 23.)_ - - -_1st. Sucre of Red lake_ (_Wiscoup_). - -MY FATHER: I have heard and understood the words of our great father. -It overjoys me to see you make peace among us. I should have -accompanied you had my family been present, and would have gone to -see my father, the great war-chief. - -MY FATHER: This medal I hold in my hands I received from the English -chiefs. I willingly deliver it up to you. Wabasha's calumet, with -which I am presented, I receive with all my heart. Be assured that I -will use my best endeavors to keep my young men quiet. There is my -calumet. I send it to my father the great war-chief. What does it -signify that I should go to see him? Will not my pipe answer the same -purpose? - -MY FATHER: You will meet with the Sioux on your return. You will make -them smoke my pipe, and tell them that I have let fall my hatchet. - -MY FATHER: Tell the Sioux on the upper part of the river St. Peters to -mark trees with the figure of a calumet, that we of Red Lake who may -go that way, should we see them, may make peace with them, being -assured of their pacific disposition when we see the calumet marked on -the trees. - - -_2d. The Chief de la Terre of Leech lake_ (_Obigouitte_). - -MY FATHER: I am glad to hear that we and the Sioux are now brothers, -peace being made between us. If I have received a medal from the -English traders, it was not as a mark of rank or distinction, as I -considered it, but merely because I made good hunts and paid my debts. -Had Sucre been able to go and see our father, the great war-chief, I -should have accompanied him; but I am determined to go to -Michilimackinac next spring to see my brothers the Americans. - - -_3d. Geuelle Platte of Leech lake_ (_Eskibugeckoge_). - -MY FATHER: My heart beat high with joy when I heard that you had -arrived, and that all the nations through which you passed had -received and made peace among them. - -MY FATHER: You ask me to accompany you to meet our father, the great -war-chief. This I would willingly do, but certain considerations -prevent me. I have sent my calumet to all the Sauteaux who hunt round -about, to assemble to form a war-party; should I be absent, they, when -assembled, might strike those with whom we have made peace, and thus -kill our brothers. I must therefore remain here to prevent them from -assembling, as I fear that there are many who have begun already to -prepare to meet me. I present you with the medal of my uncle here -present. He received it from the English chiefs as a recompense for -his good hunts. As for me, I have no medal here; it is at my tent, and -I will cheerfully deliver it up. That medal was given me by the -English traders, in consideration of something that I had done; and I -can say that three-fourths of those here present belong to me. - -MY FATHER: I promise you, and you may confide in my word, that I will -preserve peace; that I bury my hatchet; and that even should the Sioux -come and strike me, for the first time I would not take up my hatchet; -but should they come and strike me a second time, I would dig up my -hatchet and revenge myself. - - -_Art. 12. Extract of a letter, Pike to Robert Dickson, Lower Red Cedar -Lake, Feb. 26th, 1806. (Orig. No. 9, pp. 23, 24.)_ - -Mr. Grant was prepared to go on a trading voyage among the Fols -Avoins; but that was what I could not by any means admit of, and I -hope that, on a moment's reflection, you will admit the justice of my -refusal. For what could be a greater piece of injustice than for me to -permit you to send goods, illegally brought into the country, down -into the same quarter, to trade for the credits of men who have paid -their duties, regularly taken out licenses, and in other respects -acted conformably to law? They might exclaim with justice, "What! Lt. -Pike, not content with suffering the laws to slumber when it was his -duty to have executed them, has now suffered the N. W. Company's -agents to come even here to violate them, and injure the citizens of -the United States--certainly he must be corrupted to admit this." - -This, Sir, would be the natural conclusion of all persons. - - -_Art. 13. Letter, Pike to La Jeunesse. (Orig. No. 10, p. 24.)_ - - GRAND ISLE, UPPER MISSISSIPPI, Apr. 9th, 1806. - -SIR: - -Being informed that you have arrived here with an intention of selling -spirituous liquors to the savages of this quarter, together with other -merchandise under your charge, I beg leave to inform you that the sale -of spirituous liquors on the Indian territories, to any savages -whatsoever, is contrary to a law of the United States for regulating -trade with the savages and preserving peace on the frontiers; and that -notwithstanding the custom has hitherto obtained on the Upper -Mississippi, no person whatsoever has authority therefor. As the -practice may have a tendency to occasion broils and dissensions among -the savages, thereby occasioning bloodshed and an infraction of the -good understanding which now, through my endeavors, so happily exists, -I have, at your particular request, addressed you this note in -writing, informing you that in case of an infraction I shall conceive -it my duty, as an officer of the United States, to prosecute according -to the pains and penalties of the law. - - I am, Sir, - With all due consideration, - Your obedient servant, - [Signed] Z. M. PIKE, Lt. - - MR. LA JENNESSE. - - -_Art. 14. Letter, Pike to Wilkinson. (Orig. No. 11, pp. 25, 26.)_ - - PRAIRIE DE CHIEN, Apr. 18, 1806. - -DEAR GENERAL: - -I arrived here within the hour, and as Mr. Jearreau, of Cahokia, -embarks for St. Louis early to-morrow morning, I embrace this -opportunity to give a slight sketch of the events of my expedition. -Being obliged to steal the hours from my repose, I hope the General -will pardon the conciseness of my epistle. - -I pushed forward last October with all eagerness, in hopes to make -Lake De Sable, and return to St. Louis in the autumn. The weather was -mild and promising until the middle of the month, when a sudden change -took place and the ice immediately commenced running. I was then -conscious of my inability to return, as the falls and other obstacles -would retain me until the river would close. I then conceived it best -to station part of my men, and push my discovery with the remainder on -foot. I marched with 11 soldiers and my interpreter, 700 miles, to the -source of the Mississippi, through (I may without vanity say) as many -hardships as almost any party of Americans ever experienced, by cold -and hunger. I was on the communication of Red river and the -Mississippi, the former being a water of Hudson's bay.[V-14] The -British flag, which was expanded on some very respectable positions, -has given place to that of the United States wherever we passed; -likewise, we have the faith and honor of the N. W. Company for about -$13,000 duties this year; and by the voyage peace is established -between the Sioux and Sauteurs. These objects I have been happy enough -to accomplish without the loss of one man, although once fired on. I -expect hourly the Sussitongs, Yanctongs, Wachpecoutes, and three -other bands of Sioux; some are from the head of the St. Peters, and -some from the plains west of that river. From here I bring with me a -few of the principal men only, agreeably to your orders; also, some -chiefs of the Fols Avoins or Menomones, and Winebagos, the latter of -whom have murdered three men since my passing here last autumn. The -murderers I shall demand, and am in expectation of obtaining two, for -whom I now have irons making, and expect to have them with me on my -arrival. Indeed, Sir, the insolence of the savages in this quarter is -unbounded; and unless an immediate example is made, we shall certainly -be obliged to enter into a general war with them. - -My party has been some small check to them this winter, as I was -determined to preserve the dignity of our flag, or die in the attempt. - -I presume, General, that my voyage will be productive of much new, -useful, and interesting information for our government, although -detailed in the unpolished diction of a soldier of fortune. - -The river broke up at my stockade, 600 miles above here, on the 7th -inst., and Lake Pepin was passable for boats only on the 14th. Thus -you may perceive, Sir, I have not been slow in my descent, leaving all -the traders behind me. From the time it will take to make my -arrangements, and the state of the water, I calculate on arriving at -the cantonment [Belle Fontaine] on the 4th of May; and hope my General -will be assured that nothing but the most insurmountable obstacles -shall detain me one moment. - -N. B. I beg leave to caution the General against attending to the -reports of any individuals relating to this country, as the most -unbounded prejudices and party rancor pervade almost generally. - - I am, dear Sir, - With great consideration, - Your obedient servant, - [Signed] Z. M. PIKE, Lt. - - -_Art. 15.[V-15] Speech, Pike to the Puants at Prairie Du Chien, Apr. -20th, 1806. (Part of Orig. No. 12, pp. 26, 27.)_ - -BROTHERS: When I passed here last autumn I requested to see you on my -return. I am pleased to see you have listened to my words. It pleased -the Great Spirit to open the ears of all the nations through which I -passed, to hear and attend to the words of their father. Peace has -been established between two of the most powerful nations in this -quarter. - -Notwithstanding all this, some of your nation have been bold enough to -kill some of the white people. Not content with firing on the canoes -descending the Ouiscousing last autumn, they have killed a man on Rock -river, when sitting peaceably in his tent. They have also recently -murdered a young man near this place, without any provocation -whatever. As an officer of the United States, it is my duty to demand -the murderers; and I do now demand them. - -BROTHERS: In this action I am not influenced or urged by any -individual of this place, or the people generally; no more than as it -is my duty to give all our citizens all the protection in my power. I -will not deceive you. If the prisoners are delivered to me, I shall -put them in irons, under my guards, and in all instances treat them as -men guilty of a capital crime; on their arrival below, they will be -tried for their lives; and if it be proved they have killed these -people without provocation, in all probability they will be put to -death. If, on the contrary, it is proved that the whites were the -aggressors, and it was only self-defence, it will be deemed -justifiable, and they will be sent back to their nation. - -It becomes you to consider well whether in case of a refusal you are -sufficiently powerful to protect these men against the power of the -United States, which have always, since the treaty of 1795, treated -all the savages as their children; but if they are obliged to march -troops to punish the many murders committed on their citizens, then -the innocent will suffer with the guilty. - -My demand will be reported in candor and truth below; when the general -will take such steps as he may deem proper. But I hope, for the sake -of your innocent women and children, you will do us and yourselves -justice. I was directed to invite a few chiefs down with me to St. -Louis. Many of different bands are about to descend with me. I now -give an invitation to two or three of your principal men to descend -with me. Whatever are your determinations, I pledge the faith of a -soldier for a safe conduct back to your nation. At present, I am not -instructed to act by force to procure those men, therefore you will -consider yourselves as acting without restraint, and under free -deliberations. - -They replied that they thanked me for the generous and candid manner -in which I had explained myself, and that they would give me an answer -to-morrow. - - -_Art. 16. Further Conferences with Indians at Prairie du Chien, Apr. -21st, 1806. (Part of Orig. No. 12, pp. 27-29.)_ - -The Puants met me in council, agreeably to promise. Karamone, their -chief, addressed me, and said they had come to reply to my demand of -yesterday. He requested that I, with the traders, would listen. A -soldier called Little Thunder then arose and said: "The chiefs were -for giving up the murderer present; but it was the opinion of the -soldiers that they should themselves take him with the others to their -father. But if I preferred their taking one down now, they would do -it; if, on the contrary, I expected all three, they would immediately -depart in pursuit of the others, and bring them all together to their -father. That if he did not bring them he would deliver himself up to -the Americans." I replied: "He must not attempt to deceive. That I had -before told him that I was not authorized to seize their men by force -of arms, but that I wished to know explicitly the time when we might -expect them at St. Louis, in order that our general should know what -steps to take in case they did not arrive. That the consequence of a -non-compliance would be serious to themselves and their children. Also -that they had recently hoisted a British flag near this place which, -had I been here, I should have prevented. I advised them to bring -their British flags and medals down to St. Louis, to deliver them up, -and receive others in exchange." Their reply was: "In ten days to the -Prairie, and thence to St. Louis in ten days more." - -Held a council with the Sioux, in which the chiefs of the Yanctongs, -Sussitongs, Sioux of the head of the De Moyen, and part of the Gens Du -Lac were present. Wabasha first spoke, in answer to my speech, wherein -I had recapitulated the conduct of the Sauteurs, their desire and -willingness for peace, their arrangements for next summer, the pipes -they had sent, etc. Also, the wish of the general for some of the -chiefs to descend below. Recommended the situation and good intentions -of the young chiefs at the mouth of the St. Peters, to the others; and -that they should give them assistance to keep the bad men in awe. - -They all acquiesced in the peace with the Sauteurs, but said generally -they doubted their bad faith, as they had experienced it many a time. -Nez Corbeau said he had been accused of being hired to kill Mr. Dixon -[Dickson], but he here solemnly denied ever having been instigated to -any such action. - -Tonnere Rouge then arose and said: Jealousy was in a great measure the -principal cause of his descending. That if any trader ever had cause -to complain of him, now let him do it publicly. That last year an -officer went up the Missouri, gave flags and medals, made chiefs, and -played the devil and all. That this year liquor was restricted -[forbidden] to the Indians on the Louisiana side, and permitted on -this. He wished to know the reason of those arrangements. - -I replied that the officer who ascended the Missouri was authorized by -their father; and that to make chiefs of them, etc., was what I now -invited them down for. As to liquor, it was too long an explanation to -give them here, but it would be explained to them below; and that in a -very short time liquor would be restricted on both sides of the river. - -The Puants in the evening came to the house, and Macraragah, alias -Merchant, spoke: That last spring he had embarked to go down to St. -Louis; but at De Buques [Dubuque's] the Reynards gave back. That when -he saw me last autumn he gave me his hand without shame; but since it -had pleased the father of life to cover them with shame, they now felt -themselves miserable. They implored me to present their flags and -medals to the general, as a proof of their good intentions; and when I -arrived at St. Louis, to assure the general they were not far behind. -The chiefs and the soldiers would follow with the murderers; but -begged I would make their road clear, etc. Delivered his pipe and -flag. - -Karamone then spoke, with apparent difficulty; assured me of the -shame, disgrace, and distress of their nation, and that he would -fulfill what the others had said; said that he sent by me the medal of -his father, which he considered himself no longer worthy to -wear--putting it around my neck, trembling--and begged me to intercede -with the general in their favor, etc. - -I assured him that the American was a generous nation, not confounding -the innocent with the guilty; that when they had delivered up the -three or four dogs who had covered them with blood, we would again -look on them as our children; advised them to take courage that, if -they did well, they should be treated well; said that I would tell -the general everything relative to the affair; also, their repentance, -and determination to deliver themselves and the murderers, and that I -would explain about their flags and medals. - - -_Art. 17. Letter, Pike to Campbell and Fisher. (Orig. No. 13, pp. -29, 30.)_ - -(_Notice to Messrs. Campbell and Fisher, for taking depositions -against the murderers of the Puant nation._) - - PRAIRIE DES CHIENS, Apr. 20th, 1806. - -GENTLEMEN: - -Having demanded of the Puants the authors of the late atrocious -murders, and understanding that it is their intention to deliver them -to me, I have to request of you, as magistrates of this territory, -that you will have all the depositions of those facts taken which it -is in your power to procure; and if at any future period, previous to -the final decisions of their fate, further proofs can be obtained, -that you will have them properly authenticated and forwarded to his -Excellency, General Wilkinson. - - I am, Gentlemen, - With respect, - Your obedient servant, - [Signed] Z. M. PIKE, Lt. - - -_Art. 18. Letter, Pike to Wilkinson. (Orig. No. 14, pp. 30, 31.)_ - - FORT ST. LOUIS, May 26th, 1806. - -DEAR SIR: - -I have hitherto detained the medals and flags, intending to present -them to you at the final conclusion of my vouchers on the subject of -my correspondence with the savages. But in order that the general -might know of whom I had obtained medals and flags, I gave him a -memorandum when I handed in my vouchers on the subject of the N. W. -Company. Now I have thought proper to send them by the bearer, marked -with the names of the chiefs from whom I obtained them. - -I also send you a pipe and beaver robe of Tonnere Rouge, as they are -the handsomest of any which I received on the whole route. I have -several other pipes, two sacks, and one robe; but as they bore no -particular message, I conceived the general would look on it as a -matter of no consequence; indeed, none except the Sauteurs' [presents] -were accompanied by a talk, but just served as an emblem of the good -will of the moment. I likewise send the skins of the lynx and brelaw -[badger], as the general may have an opportunity to forward them. - -Some gentlemen have promised me a mate for my dog; if I obtain him, -the pair, or the single one with the sleigh, is at the general's -service, to be transmitted to the States as we determined on doing. I -mentioned in my memorandums the engagements I was under relative to -the flags or medals, and should any early communications be made to -that country, I hope the subject may not be forgotten. I have labeled -each article with the name of those from whom I obtained them; also -the names of the different animals. - - I am, sir, - With esteem and high consideration, - Your obedient servant, - [Signed] Z. M. PIKE, Lt. - - GENERAL JAMES WILKINSON. - - * * * * * - -My faith was pledged to the savage chiefs for the replacing of the -medals and flags of the British government which they surrendered me, -by others of the same magnitude of the United States; but owing to the -change of agents, and a variety of circumstances, it was never -fulfilled. This has left a number of the Sioux and Sauteur chiefs -without their distinguishing marks of dignity, and has induced them to -look on my conduct toward them as a premeditated fraud. This would -render my life in danger should I ever return amongst them, and the -situation of any other officer who should presume to make a similar -demand extremely delicate; besides, it has compromitted with those -savage warriors the _faith_ of our government, which, to enable any -government ever to do good, should be held inviolate.[V-16] - - -_Art. 19. Letter,[V-17] Pike to Wilkinson. (Orig. No. 15, pp. -31-33.)_ - - BELLEFONTAINE, July 2d, 1806. - -DEAR SIR: - -I have at length finished all my reports, observations, and journals, -which arose from my late voyage to the source of the Mississippi, and -hope they may prove interesting, from the information on different -subjects which they contain. - -I perceive that I differ materially from Captain Lewis[V-18] in my -account of the numbers, manners, and morals of the Sioux. But our -reception by that nation at the first interview being so different, it -no doubt left an impression on our minds, which may have, unknown to -ourselves, given a cast to our observations. I will not only vouch for -the authenticity of my account as to numbers, arms, etc., from my own -notes, but from having had them revised and corrected by a -gentleman[V-19] of liberal education, who has resided 18 years in that -nation, speaks their language, and for some years past has been -collecting materials for their natural and philosophical history. - -I have not attempted to give an account of nations of Indians whom I -did not visit, except the Assinniboins, whom, from their intimate -connection with the Sioux, in a lineal point of view, it would have -been improper to leave out of the catalogue. - -The correctness of the geographical parts of the voyage I will vouch -for, as I spared neither time, fatigue, nor danger, to see for myself -every part connected with my immediate route. - -As the general already knows, at the time I left St. Louis there were -no instruments proper for celestial observations, excepting those -which he furnished me, which were inadequate to taking the longitude; -neither had I the proper tables or authors to accomplish that object, -though it can no doubt be ascertained by various charts at different -points of my route. Nor had I proper time-pieces or instruments for -meteorological observations. Those made were from an imperfect -instrument which I purchased in the town of St. Louis. - -I do not possess the qualifications of the naturalist, and even had -they been mine, it would have been impossible to gratify them to any -great extent, as we passed with rapidity over the country we surveyed, -which was covered with snow six months out of the nine I was absent. -And indeed, my thoughts were too much engrossed in making provision -for the exigencies of the morrow to attempt a science which requires -time, and a placidity of mind which seldom fell to my lot. - -The journal in itself will have little to strike the imagination, -being but a dull detail of our daily march, and containing many notes -which should have come into the geographical part; others of -observations on the savage character, and many that were never -intended to be included in my official report. - -The daily occurrences written at night, frequently by firelight, when -extremely fatigued, and the cold so severe as to freeze the ink in my -pen, of course have little claim to elegance of expression or style; -but they have truth to recommend them, which, if always attended to, -would strip the pages of many of our journalists of their most -interesting occurrences. - -The general will please to recollect also, that I had scarcely -returned to St. Louis before the [Arkansaw] voyage now in -contemplation was proposed to me; and that, after some consideration -my duty, and inclination in some respects, induced me to undertake it. -The preparations for my new voyage prevented the possibility of my -paying that attention to the correction of my errors that I should -otherwise have done. This, with the foregoing reasons, will, I hope, -be deemed a sufficient apology for the numerous errors, tautologies, -and egotisms which will appear. - - I am, dear General, - With great respect, - Your obedient servant, - [Signed] Z. M. PIKE, - Lt. 1st Regt. Infty. - - GENERAL JAMES WILKINSON. - -FOOTNOTES: - -[V-1] Under this head I bring all the matter which formed in the orig. -ed. the first 16 pieces, Nos. 1-16, pp. 1-34 of the Appendix to Pt. 1. -These fall easily together, as they consist entirely of letters Pike -wrote or received during his Mississippi Expedition--even the reports -of his Indian councils being actually a part of his correspondence -with General Wilkinson. I am also able to follow the original sequence -of the pieces, with the single exception of orig. No. 16 (instructions -to Kennerman), which Pike put last and I bring into chronological -order of dates. The difference of my Arts. 1-18 from Pike's Nos. 1-16 -results from my Art. 3, which had no number in the orig. ed. (it being -merely an inclosure in Pike's No. 2), and my Art. 5, the Sioux treaty, -which Pike did not separate by any sort of mark from his No. 3, though -it is by far the most important piece of this whole lot. The changes I -make affect the numeration after No. 2, but not the sequence in any -case except that of my Art. 7 (Pike's No. 16). I indicate the original -numeration and pagination. - -[V-2] There were three persons of this name down to 1805. Louis Tesson -Honore 1st, tailor, b. Canada, 1734, d. St. Louis, 1807, aged 73; -married Magdalena Peterson, b. 1739, d. St. Louis, 1812. The family -came to St. Louis from Kaskaskia. Among 8 children was--Louis Tesson -Honore 2d, eldest son; he married (1) Marie Duchouquette, (2) Theresa -Creely, in 1788; by the latter he had Louis Tesson Honore 3d, b. St. -Louis about 1790; married Amaranthe Dumoulin; d. there Aug. 20th, -1827. The one Pike names was no doubt No. 2. - -[V-3] This piece is the inclosure mentioned in Art. 2. In the orig. -ed. it had no number, and occupied p. 5. - -[V-4] Doc. No. 3, p. 6-9, of the orig. ed. was printed in a peculiarly -misleading manner. In the first place it was headed in capitals, -"Conferences held with different bands of Indians, on a voyage up the -Mississippi, in the years 1805 and 1806," though it was entirely -occupied with a single such conference, namely, that with the Sioux, -of Sept. 23d, 1805. In the second place, this major head was followed -by an italicised minor head which properly covered only Pike's speech -on the occasion, yet included the important terms of the treaty -effected, as the latter was tacked on to Pike's speech without any -separate heading, and even without any break in the text. We must -therefore break orig. Doc. No. 3 into two pieces, to be enumerated as -Art. 4 and Art. 5. For the former of these, which is Pike's speech, -the orig. minor head of Doc. No. 3 may be retained. For the latter of -these, which is the Sioux treaty, a new head must be supplied; -especially as this is by far the most important result of Pike's -Mississippi voyage--perhaps more important than all the rest -collectively--concerning which there is a great deal to be said. - -[V-5] Who the "father" may be whom Pike imposes upon the Indians in -his various powwows is not always clear. Sometimes President Jefferson -appears to be indicated; sometimes General Wilkinson; sometimes Pike -himself. In the present instance it is General Wilkinson, and the -Osage mission in mention is that upon which Lieutenant George Peter -had been detailed by the general. This appears in a letter from -General Wilkinson to the Secretary of War, dated St. Louis, Aug. 25th, -1805, now on file in the War Department, and in the following extract: -"I find our parties under Lieuts. Pike and Peter are making rapid -progress on their routes. Pike had ascended the Mississippi 150 miles -on the fifth day after he left this place, and I have just received a -letter from Peters [_sic_] dated the 19th inst., 150 miles up the -Osage River, altho' he left S^t. Charles, 25 miles from the mouth of -the Missouri, on the 10th inst. and had been obstructed by almost -incessant rains and consequent high waters. He is charmed with the -river and its banks, which He reports to be far superior to those of -the Ohio in beauty and fertility--Independent of the immediate objects -of these parties, they serve to instruct our young officers and also -our soldiery, on subjects which may hereafter become interesting to -the United States." George Peter of Maryland was appointed from the -District of Columbia to be a second lieutenant of the 9th Infantry, -July 12th, 1799, and honorably discharged June 15th, 1800; he was -appointed lieutenant of Artillerists and Engineers, Feb. 16th, 1801; -of Artillerists, Apr. 1st, 1802; became captain, Nov. 3d, 1807; was -transferred to the Light Artillery in May, 1808; resigned, June 11th, -1809; and died June 22d, 1861. - -[V-6] As explained in note 1, p. 221, this article requires -separation from Art. 4, from which it is totally distinct, though the -two form undistinguished parts of one Doc. No. 3, of the orig. ed. I -accordingly set them apart, and supply a new heading for Art. 5; but I -reprint the latter _precisely_ as it stands in the orig. ed., for -reasons which will presently appear. As originally drafted by Pike, -and by him communicated to General Wilkinson under cover of a letter -of equal date, it appears to have been "scarcely legible," as the -general informs the Secretary of War in a letter before me (see Art. -6). I doubt that this extraordinary document ever existed in a form -which might not be set aside as fatally defective; and I do not doubt -that we acquired legal title to the lands by some means subsequent to -this invalid instrument. The probability is that upon due and -sufficient investigation of points of law involved it would appear -that the supposed cession of lands was not a legally accomplished fact -until made such by later negotiation or legislation, with which we -have here nothing to do. The following argument concerning Pike's -treaty, as simply a starting-point for further steps in the -transaction, was submitted in the press-proofs to my relative James M. -Flower, Esq., of Chicago, who had no material modification to suggest. - -Let us first examine that version of the document which Pike presents -upon his own page, and which is therefore presumably authentic. - -1. The preamble recites that a conference was held "between the United -States of America and the Sioux nation of Indians." But it does not -appear that either of the alleged parties to the transaction was -officially and legally represented. The Sioux nation consisted in 1805 -of at least seven tribes, only one of which was concerned in the -affair; and if only the consent of this one tribe was required to -effect the cession the conference is erroneously described. -Furthermore, it does not appear by what authority Pike assumed to -represent the United States. He signs himself "agent" at the -conference. Agent of whom or of what? He was certainly not an Indian -agent, empowered by the United States to effect treaties with aliens; -and though it is true that he was instructed by his military superior -to obtain if possible certain cessions, among which was the cession of -land at and near the mouth of St. Peter's r., the question recurs -whether General Wilkinson was competent to issue military orders to -that effect without the authority of the government; and no such -authority is expressed or necessarily implied in the terms of the -alleged treaty. - -2. Art. 1, which ostensibly declares what lands were supposed to be -ceded, does in fact declare or describe no such lands sufficiently or -recognizably, and is furthermore vitiated by a blunder which would -constitute a fatal flaw in the title, if contested. (_a_) "Nine miles -square at the mouth of the St. Croix," is in the first place an -impossibility, because the mouth of the St. Croix has no such -dimensions; and in the second place may mean either a tract of 81 -square miles, whose center is at the mouth of the said river, or any -one of four or more square tracts of the said extent, any one of whose -angles, or any indetermined point of one of whose sides, is at the -mouth of the said river; and in no one of these contingencies is the -direction in which the remaining bounds are to be laid off described -either by points of the compass or by natural landmarks. (_b_) The -asterisk set at the words "St. Croix" refers to a memorandum which -Pike causes to appear as a clause of the treaty itself, interpolated -of his own motion, without the knowledge or consent of the other party -to the transaction; it is also unintelligible on its face. "My demand -was one league below." Below what? Below the mouth of the St. Croix? -That would be the obvious inference; but it would be erroneous to so -infer. "Their reply was 'from below.'" This is absolutely -unintelligible as it stands; it has no meaning whatever. "I imagine -(without iniquity) they may be made to agree." Is it Pike's -imagination that is without iniquity? Or is it some agreement that may -be brought about without iniquity between his demands and the terms of -the cession? Or is it the Indians who can without iniquity be made to -agree with a demand that conflicts with the terms of the cession as -understood by them? In point of fact, however, this interpolated -clause of the treaty, or interpolated memorandum relating to the terms -of the cession, has nothing whatever to do with the lands at or near -the St. Croix r., because the asterisk which points out the place of -the interpolation is misplaced by error of the types. The words which -stand "St. Croix,* also from," etc., should stand "St. Croix. *Also -from," etc. The printer foiled Pike's intention of placing the -asterisk at the beginning of the clause to which it pertains, by -setting it at the end of the preceding clause, to which it does not -pertain. - -3. Now making the actually required transference of the asterisk to -its proper and intended position (where it stands correctly on a -manuscript copy of the orig. doc. now before me), the whole difficulty -which this obnoxious interpolation occasions is shifted to a much more -important clause of the treaty, upon which it remains in full force. -Accordingly we find that this most important clause beginning "*Also -from below," etc., includes an irreconcilable discrepancy between -Pike's demand and the Indians' concession. He appears to have demanded -that the tract of land ceded should begin "one league" below the -confluence of St. Peter's with the Mississippi r.; and the Indians -appear to have agreed, not to this demand, but to a cession of a tract -of land which should begin "from below" the said confluence; though -how far "from below" is not said, and there is nothing to show whether -the distance should be more or less than the "one league" which Pike -demanded and to which the Indians did not agree. But it is impossible, -either with or without "iniquity," to come to any incontestable -conclusion concerning a boundary so unintelligibly indicated. The most -we can do is to "imagine," as Pike did, that what the Indians were -willing to cede and did in fact cede by the terms of the treaty, was a -tract which began on one side at no appreciable or no considerable -distance below the said confluence, _i. e._, exactly or immediately at -the mouth of St. Peter's r. This is a reasonable and natural, if not -the only, inference to be drawn from the obscure and scarcely -intelligible terms of the article in question; and I believe that such -has always been the assumption of its true purport. The initial point -assumed, then, is the mouth of St. Peter's r.; but the article does -not show in what, if any, direction a line is to be drawn through this -point for the purpose of establishing a practicable boundary. No line -can be determined by fewer than two points; yet the article specifies -no second point to or from which a line may be drawn from or to the -mouth of St. Peter's r. to represent one side of the tract supposed to -have been ceded. The further terms of the article throw no light on -the case. These terms are only "to include the falls of St. Anthony, -extending nine miles on each side of the river." This clause of the -cession does not specify which one of the two said rivers the Falls of -St. Anthony extend nine miles on each side of, and it is also a -natural impossibility for the said falls to extend any miles on either -side of any river. Seeking some other construction to be put upon -terms which are obviously absurd if taken literally, we drag from -obscurity a semblance of meaning they may be assumed to have. This -meaning is, that the tract of land ceded does to all intent and -purpose extend from a point at the mouth of St. Peter's r. to some -point in or on the Mississippi r., at or beyond the Falls of St. -Anthony; but to what point is not specified. However, we may assume -that the phrase "to include the falls of St. Anthony" is to be -construed to include no more than these falls. This assumption gives -us a second datum-point of the required boundary, but does not in any -way assist us to an intelligible connection between the first point -and the second one, along which any line can be drawn as a boundary. -This deficiency of any line whatever may be assumed to be supplied by -the only remaining clause of the article, namely, "extending nine -miles on each side of the river." But in what direction are nine miles -on each side of the river to be taken? For anything that appears to -the contrary, the distance between the mouth of St. Peter's r. and the -Falls of St. Anthony may be nine miles, and there is nothing in the -terms of the article which forbids the measurement of nine miles to be -made up each side of the Mississippi from the mouth of St. Peter's r. -to the Falls of St. Anthony, and as much further as nine miles may be -found to reach. On such assumption, the cession included only a -section of the Mississippi r., and not any land on either side of this -river beyond its immediate banks; all that was ceded by the Sioux -being in such event a waterway and a waterpower. To claim as ours by -the terms of the treaty any land on either side of the river, we have -to proceed upon yet another assumption, namely, that the nine miles in -question were to be measured in a direction away from the river "on -each side." But even assuming such to have been the intent and purport -of the article, several further questions arise. The first of these -concerns the meaning of the word "each" in its present connection. -This word means either one of two or more things in their reciprocal -relation, and thus implies both; in the present instance, as a river -has only two sides, "each side" means both sides. It is clear that a -distance of nine miles is to be measured away from each side of the -river, _i. e._, is to include some distance on both sides of the -river; but the terms of the article do not state whether the whole of -nine miles' distance from one side of the river, and the whole of nine -miles' distance from the other side of the river, was ceded, or -whether a part of these nine miles on one side and the rest of these -nine miles on the other was ceded; or, in the latter case, what part -of these nine miles on one side and what part of these nine miles on -the other side were ceded. In other words, is the tract of land ceded -eighteen miles wide, or only nine miles wide? In the former case it -would of course lie in two equal tracts, one on each side of the -river; in the latter case, its location would be wholly indeterminate -(within certain obvious limitations); for it might be four and a half -miles on each side, or four miles on one side and five on the other, -and so on. Even were all the foregoing questions settled--arbitrarily, -conventionally, or otherwise--yet others would arise. Among these -would be the shape of the two lateral boundaries of the tract of land. -This tract is described as "extending nine miles on each side of the -river." That is, each boundary furthest from the river is to be at the -same distance from its own side of the river at every point of its own -extent. This requires that these bounds should be parallel with each -other, and such parallelism involves the meandering of two lines -parallel at every point with the meanders of the river. Assuming that -this were satisfactorily done, it would still be impossible to -determine the connection of these two sides of a theoretical tract of -land with the other two sides required for actual boundary. For there -is nothing in the article to show the direction in which either the -line which crosses the mouth of St. Peter's r., or the line which -crosses the Falls of St. Anthony, is to be extended to intersect any -lines, however the latter may have been projected. We are forced to -yet further assumptions, for which the terms of the cession give no -warrant whatever. No determinable shape is given to the tract of land -by the terms of the cession. If we assume that a square was -intended--as was expressly the intention in the case of the land about -the mouth of the St. Croix--we are confronted with some terms of the -article which put a square out of the question. By these terms the -land can only be a square in case the mouth of the St. Peter's r. be -nine miles below the Falls of St. Anthony, and in the further case -that we measure four and a half miles from one and four and a half -miles from the other side of the Mississippi, and make all connections -at right angles by means of right lines. It is needless to push the -difficulty further. Nothing of this sort, we may be sure, was in the -minds of the Sioux at the time, and it may be doubted that anything of -the sort occurred to Pike. The patent fact remains that even if both -parties to the transaction were competent to execute the instrument by -which certain lands were ceded, neither the situation, nor the shape, -nor the size of the tract ceded can be determined from the article of -the treaty relating thereto. How the cession thus left in the air may -have been subsequently determined, it is not to my present purpose to -inquire. My contention is simply that we acquired by Article 1 of this -famous treaty no tract or tracts of land which can be located -according to the terms of the article; and that if there be not a -cloud upon the title to every foot of land between and including Fort -Snelling and Minneapolis, and for some distance on each side of those -places, then such cloud has been removed by legislative or other -action subsequent to the supposed cession. It will also be remembered -by those interested in such things that the question has been raised -whether the Sioux who seem to have ceded this land to us had at the -time a clear title to it; for Carver claimed, and some of his heirs -have since sought to establish his claim, that the Sioux had at one -time made over to him, for a valuable consideration, certain lands -supposed to be the same, wholly or in part, as those which they made -over to Pike. This case I understand was tried, and decided adversely -in law; whether it be not a good case in equity is another question. - -4. With the competency of both parties to the transaction brought into -question, and with the size, shape, and situation of the land-grant -shown to be indeterminable, we have next to consider whether Article 2 -does not invalidate, vitiate, or void the whole instrument. In the -version which Pike's printer offers us, it reads: "Art. 2. That in -consideration of the above grants, the United States shall pay (filled -up by the senate with 2000 dollars)." This is simply ridiculous. By -the terms of Article 2, the valuable consideration which the Sioux -received is an imaginary nonentity described as "(filled up by the -senate with 2000 dollars)." However, this absurdity in the wording of -an international document is so clearly due to the heedlessness of an -inexperienced young officer, and what Pike meant by such phraseology -is so obvious, that we can let it go with only the further remark that -the purport of Article 2, as it stands on his page, is clearer than -anything in Article 1. For it is an obvious editorial interpolation of -his own, forming no part of the original document, but simply intended -to inform the reader that at some time subsequent to the execution of -the instrument by the contracting parties, the Senate of the United -States voted to fill up a place which had been left blank in the -original document with a clause which provided that the United States -should pay $2,000 to the Indians in consideration of the grant which -the latter had made. But this very fact goes far to show that the -instrument was in the first place fatally defective, no valuable or -any consideration whatever having been originally expressed or implied -in the terms of Article 2. On this point I have carefully examined two -manuscript copies of the "treaty," both made soon after the -transaction in question, and both now on file in the War Department. -One of the manuscripts reads: "Article 2^nd.--That in consideration -of the above Grants, the United States" The other manuscript reads: -"Art. 2^d That in consideration of the above grants the U. S." A -third version of Article 2, in an official imprint of the treaty, -published by the Indian Bureau, is: "ARTICLE 2. That in consideration -of the above grants the United States ******" Whence it appears that -the words "shall pay," which occur in the version our young friend -offers in his book, were also an editorial invention of his own; there -is no hint in the original instrument that the United States was to -pay anything. For anything that appears to the contrary, the United -States might have declared war with England, or amended the -Constitution, or done nothing, in consideration of the above grant. -Pike could give the Indians no assurance that the United States would -do anything whatever--that they would even accept the lands as a gift, -because he had no knowledge of future Acts of Congress, and no -authority to make any stipulations which should be binding on the -government. What is perhaps the most extraordinary thing about this -extraordinary transaction is that Pike informs Wilkinson by letter of -equal date that lands to the extent of about 100,000 acres had been -obtained "for a song"; calls the general's attention pointedly to the -fact "that the 2d article, relative to consideration, is blank;" that -the "song" in mention was worth about $250, being the value of certain -presents with which he had personally and privately feed the two -chiefs who signed the treaty, these presents being partly from -articles of his personal property; and suggests to the general "to -insert the amount of those articles as the considerations to be -specified in article 2d." General Wilkinson expresses unfeigned -surprise at this, in a letter before me addressed to the Secretary of -War, dated St. Louis, Nov. 26th, 1805, in which he says: "You have a -copy of the agreement under cover, in which, for what reason I cannot -divine, he [Pike] omits the stipulation on the part of the United -States;" and again, after quoting some clauses of Pike's letter to -himself, he remarks: "I do not fairly comprehend this reasoning, but I -dare say Mr. Pike will be able to explain it satisfactorily, tho' it -is unquestionable he is a much abler soldier than negotiator." We need -not take the view that this was a shady transaction; yet if Wilkinson -had inserted $250 as the consideration to be paid for the land, no -more than this could have been claimed by the Sioux, and as this was -in part Pike's personal property, some land would have been his own -unless he had chosen to make it over to the United States on being -reimbursed in a like amount--that is, if such a treaty was worth any -more than the paper on which it was written. The facts appear to be -that Pike hobnobbed with two chiefs till he got them to make him a -present of the land he wanted, in consideration of some presents which -he had already made to these two Indians privately. - -5. The third article of the treaty is intelligible, though it is not -clear what "exceptions" were "specified" in Article 1, as recited -in Article 3. The purport seems to be that the Sioux should retain -right of way in the land, and such other use of it as should not be -abridged or nullified by our occupation. At the same time it is not -clear that, since the United States were to have "full sovereignty and -power," by the terms of Article 1, they were not authorized to -withdraw all the privileges of Article 3 if they saw fit to do so. - -6. The question of the validity of many legal documents is affected by -the presence or absence of witnesses to the same. In the present case -no signatures of witnesses appear on the face of the instrument, and -there is nothing whatever to show that it is anything more than a part -of a speech which Pike made to certain Indians, and which two of them -subscribed besides himself. None of the published versions of the -"treaty" which I have seen includes this important feature. But one of -the manuscript copies before me has the names of four persons as -witnesses, all whites. Reference to the second paragraph of Pike's -speech will show him to have spoken of "a form of agreement which we -will both sign in the presence of the traders now present." Four names -which appear on the face of the manuscript copy just mentioned, in the -usual place of witnesses' signatures, and under a word which I make -out to be "Tests," (_i. e._, _teste_ or _testibus_, in the ablative -sing. or pl.) are: Wm. Meyer, M[urdoch] Cameron, James Frazer, Duncan -Graham. It is remarkable that, if these names appear on the original -document, they were not transcribed on all the copies, and also -printed with the published versions, as an integral part of the same. - -7. The names of the two chiefs who are supposed to have "touched the -quill" to this transaction, _i. e._, signed with their respective -marks, occur in variant forms in the several copies; but this is the -rule in such cases, and has no significance except of clerical -incompetency. In the officially published version above mentioned the -two names stand "Le Petit Carbeau" and "Way Aga Enagee," each of which -only differs by one letter from the correct form (in the case of the -French) or from a usual form (in the case of the Sioux). Each of these -chiefs has been already identified: see note 2, p. 85 and p. 86. - -The subsequent history of this mock instrument or valid document is -not less singular than the conditions and circumstances under which it -originated. Diligent search for it among the treaties duly published -in the U. S. Statutes at Large fails to show that it was ever included -in that collection of official papers. But certain facts were -furnished, with the text of the treaty itself, to the Indian Bureau by -Mr. C. C. Royce of the Bureau of Ethnology at Washington, and printed -by the former Bureau in an editorial note explanatory of that text, on -p. 316 of its official publication entitled "Laws of the United States -relating to Indian Affairs," etc., Washington, Government Printing -Office, 1884. It appears in this place that the treaty (in some form) -was submitted by the President to the Senate, March 29th, 1808, thus -more than two years after the execution of the instrument in writing; -that the Senate reported favorably upon it April 13th, 1808, with the -following amendment to fill the blank in Article 2: "After the word -'States' in the second article insert the following words: 'shall, -prior to taking possession thereof, pay to the Sioux two thousand -dollars, or deliver the value thereof in such goods and merchandise as -they shall choose.'" With this amendment the Senate unanimously -advised and consented to its ratification, April 16th, 1808. -Examination of the records of the State Department fails to disclose -that any subsequent action was taken by the President; and the -ratification of the treaty does not appear to have ever been -proclaimed. This is a very unusual circumstance; for such treaties -ordinarily have three official dates of as many stages in their -progress from inception to full effect, viz.: date of agreement -between the contracting parties; date of ratification by the proper -authority; and date of proclamation by the President. In the present -case the principal evidence that the alleged cession of lands was ever -a legally accomplished fact is said by Mr. Royce to consist in certain -correspondence of the War Department more than twenty-five years after -the date of ratification of the amended treaty by the Senate. But that -the cession was effected, legally or otherwise, is certain. In 1819 -Major Thomas Forsyth, Indian Agent at St. Louis, had received -instructions from the War Department to deliver "a certain quantity of -goods, say $2,000 worth," "in payment of lands ceded by the Sioux -Indians to the late Gen. Pike for the United States": see Forsyth's -Narrative, as orig. pub. in Wis. Hist. Coll., 1872, with notes by -Lyman C. Draper, and repub. in Minn. Hist. Coll., III. 1874, pp. -139-67. Yet we find General H. H. Sibley saying, _ibid._, p. 174: "In -the year 1821, Col. Leavenworth called together the chiefs and head -men of the Sioux bands, and procured from them a grant of land nine -miles square at the junction of the Mississippi and Minnesota rivers." -What can one make of such conflicting statements? Here it is said that -Colonel Leavenworth procured in 1821 a grant of land which Major -Forsyth is said to have paid for in 1819, and which Pike is said to -have secured in 1805. In the same place General Sibley says that there -was an article in the Leavenworth-Sioux treaty of 1821 by which the -Indians "donated" Pike's isl. to Mr. J. B. Faribault. - -[V-7] "The within articles" are those of the Sioux Treaty of same -date, inclosed in this letter to General Wilkinson, which reached St. -Louis on or about Nov. 26th, 1805, and was immediately communicated in -full to the Secretary of War. A manuscript copy of the original is on -file in the Record Division of the War Department, together with two -copies of General Wilkinson's own letter to General Dearborn on the -same subject and other topics. I might reproduce the manuscript of -Pike's letter textually, but as the copy before me is in a clerk's -hand, its peculiarities being thus not Pike's own, it is not worth -while to replace the above fair imprint of the original with another -version which would show no difference except in its clerical errors. -See preceding article for a criticism of the treaty itself which -formed the inclosure of the present letter. One passage from General -Wilkinson's unpublished letter to the Secretary of War may be here -cited: "He [Pike] tells me he has no doubt of being able to make Lake -Sable in pretty good Season, but observes that the source of the River -is in 'Lake Sang Sue,' about sixty Leagues further North & that He -must 'see that also'--in which case he will have stretched his orders -& we shall not hear of Him before the Spring--He reports that our flag -is every where received with pleasure, & that he had patched up a -Peace between the Scioux & Chepaways, who are generally at War----" - -[V-8] This is the "Original Leve" of p. 85--the chief whose name would -be in English Standing Elk or Standing Moose: see note 2, p. 87. -Elan is French for such an animal; it is the same word as the Dutch -eland, which we have borrowed for a South African species. - -[V-9] "Mareir" and "Tremer" are both wrong, no doubt, but I do not -know what the right names are. A clerk's copy of the original letter -before me has "Mercier" and "Fener"--latter perhaps Francois Fennai: -_cf._ W. H. S. C., XII. p. 160. - -[V-10] Article 7 was misplaced in the orig. ed. as No. 16, being -brought in at the end of all the rest of the correspondence. I -transfer it to its present proper place in chronological sequence of -these documents. It requires no comment, being simply the written -orders which the commanding officer gave his sergeant for the guidance -of the latter during the former's absence, and which Kennerman -proceeded to disobey in general and in particular. - -[V-11] The first visit of white men to the Mandans was made in 1738, -under the leadership of Pierre Gaultier de Varennes, otherwise Le -Sieur Verendrye. A relation of this journey, by Rev. Dr. Edward D. -Neill, occupies pp. 113-119 of the Macalester College Contributions, -Department of History, Literature, and Political Science, Second -Series, No. 5, which I extract in substance, as follows: - -On Sept. 24th, 1738, Verendrye was at the confluence of the Red River -of the North with the Assiniboine r. Two days afterward he began his -journey up the latter, and on the 30th, having found a suitable place, -he established Fort La Reine. Within a week, Mgr. de La Marque -(otherwise Charles Nolan, Noland, or Nolant, son of J. B. Nolan and -Marie Anne La Marque, b. 1694), and his brother, Sieur Nolan, with -eight men, arrived in two canoes from Mackinac. On Oct. 16th Verendrye -selected 10 of his own men and 10 of La Marque's party for the Mandan -expedition, and their march began on the 18th. The party consisted of -Verendrye, with two of his sons; La Marque and his brother Nolan; -together with some voyageurs and Indians--in all 52 persons. On the -21st, at the distance of 26 leagues from Fort La Reine, they reached -the first (no doubt Turtle) mountain. After slow marches -southwestwardly, the first Mandans were met on the morning of the -28th. A chief came and stood near Verendrye, and one of his band -presented corn on the cob and some tobacco. These Indians were only -covered with a buffalo-robe, wearing no breech-clout. The Mandan chief -requested the French to visit his village, and left on the 30th, -accompanied by about 600 Indians. On the evening of the third day's -march an Assiniboine, one of a number of this tribe who had already -joined the expedition, stole a bag containing Verendrye's papers and -other valuables; two men were hired to pursue the thief, and they -captured him. On the morning of the fourth day's march camp was broken -early in order to reach the Mandan settlement. A short distance from -the village they were met on an elevation by a delegation of Mandans, -who presented the calumet. Verendrye directed his son, the chevalier, -to draw up the French in line, place the flag of France four paces -before them, and fire three volleys. At 4 p. m., Dec. 3d, Verendrye -and his associates entered the village and were conducted to the lodge -of the principal chief, where a bag containing presents, and also 300 -livres, was stolen. The Assiniboines were much afraid of the Sioux, -from whom they had separated years before, and the Mandans, not -wishing to entertain Verendrye's escort, purposely raised a rumor that -the Sioux were coming, whereupon the Assiniboines decamped. Verendrye -was embarrassed for want of a good interpreter, but learned that on -the banks of the Missouri, lower down, were the Pananas, and then the -Pananis, at war with each other. Six days after the Assiniboines -decamped, Chevalier Verendrye, Sieur Nolan, six Frenchmen, and several -Mandans visited a settlement on the bank of the river, and then Sieur -Verendrye and Mgr. de La Marque inspected the village. There were 130 -cabins. A fort was built on an elevation in the open prairie, -surrounded by a ditch about 15 feet deep and from 15 to 18 feet wide. -(Compare A. J. Hill's plot of Mandan fortification, in T. H. Lewis' -Minor Antiq. Art. No. iv, p. 5, 1884.) The cabins were spacious, -separated into several apartments by thick planks, and goods were hung -on posts in large bags. The men were naked, covered only with a -buffalo robe; the women also, excepting a loose apron about a foot -long. On the evening of Dec. 4th Verendrye's son and Nolan came back -and reported that the village they had visited was twice as large as -that where they were. On Dec. 8th the latitude was taken and found to -be 48 deg. 12' N. It was now decided to leave two men to winter with the -Mandans to acquire their language, and return with the rest to Fort La -Reine. Before they departed the head chief was presented with a flag, -and a leaden plate upon which the arms of France were cut. When ready -to leave, Verendrye fell sick and could not travel for two or three -days. On Dec. 24th, still weak, he reached the Assiniboine village, -and was agreeably surprised when the box of papers which had been -stolen was returned in good order. On Jan. 9th, 1739, the first height -of land between the Missouri and Assiniboine rivers was reached; here -Verendrye remained, while La Marque hurried on to Fort La Reine. There -he arrived Feb. 1st, and sent back assistance to Verendrye, who -reached the post, greatly fatigued, on the 10th of this month. The two -voyageurs who had been left with the Mandans returned to the fort -Sept. 27th, 1739, with reports representing more fiction than fact. - -In 1740 Verendrye visited Canada, and on Oct. 13th, 1741, he returned -to Fort La Reine. He afterward established a fifth post called Fort -Dauphin at Lac des Prairies, and a sixth, Fort Bourbon, at the mouth -of the Poskoyac r. (_i. e._, the Saskatchewan). In April, 1742, the -Chevalier Verendrye and his brother left Fort La Reine, and by way of -the Mandan village, on a southwestward course, are supposed to have -reached the Rocky Mountains in January, 1743. The Sieur Verendrye died -Dec. 6th, 1749. - -[V-12] "_As they were wont to be_" is a particularly fine rhetorical -climax to what our young friend so innocently prides himself on having -accomplished. It must have made the most stolid savage of them all -smile in his sleeve,--or whatever article of nether apparel he -wore,--as there never had been a time in his memory, or in the -memories of any of his ancestors as far back as his tribal traditions -went in the dim past, when the Sioux and Chippewas were not hereditary -foes, who killed and scalped each other with alacrious and -comprehensive reciprocity. It is true that in rare sporadic cases, -when both sets of red brethren were exhausted in war, or when each -found it necessary to let up a little on the other for a chance to -hunt in peace for the necessaries of life, temporary truces had been -agreed upon. But such spasms were supposed by neither party to last -longer than suited the convenience of either; nay, the very councils -in which such a peace was patched up sometimes ended in fresh -bloodshed on the sacred spot; and the annals of all the Indians of -North America might be sifted through and through to discover a more -notable case of inveterate, perpetual, and ferocious warfare than is -afforded by the hereditary hostility of these two powerful nations. -Pike was no doubt sincere and veracious in his representations of the -happy results of his peace-making; but his ignorance of the facts in -the case must have been complete, or he would have known that such a -truce as he effected was sure to be broken as soon as his back was -turned--if not sooner. Furthermore, the expediency of interfering with -such affairs may reasonably be doubted; for, paradoxical as it may -appear, a patched-up peace between tribes whose hostilities are -hereditary costs more lives than it saves, and makes more trouble than -it prevents. The vigilance of both parties is relaxed, private -enterprise replaces public policy, and individual murders multiply -rapidly till the normal equilibrium of forces is readjusted by open -declaration of the always existent intertribal hostility. War is the -necessary and natural state of affairs among savages; it is the main -business of their lives, and the principal if not the only means of -attaining all that is dearest to their hearts; and it is better for -all parties to proceed on that understanding in a straightforward, -businesslike way than to bushwhack for surreptitious scalps. Such -trophies of prowess must be had in any event and at all hazards; and -secret assassinations to secure them represent in the aggregate a -higher death-rate than that resulting from pitched battles. Meddling -with unmanageable things is never good policy, and interference with -intertribal relations of savages is generally inhumane as well as -impolitic. - -[V-13] The three whose answers to Pike's address are given in this -article have already been sufficiently identified: see back, note -7, p. 156, note 10, p. 169, note 13, p. 172. It is amusing to -observe the unanimity with which they declined the polite invitation -to visit General Wilkinson at St. Louis. Old Sweet's regrets strike me -as the most ingenuous. What was the use of his going in person if he -sent his pipe? If we send our card to a functionary in acknowledgment -of an invitation, is not the etiquette of the occasion accomplished by -that civil ceremony? Sucre's suggestion regarding the Sioux of the -upper Minnesota r., whose intentions were doubtful, was eminently -practical--if they wanted peace, let them so signify in the usual -manner. Chef de la Terre seems to have been less resourceful in polite -excuses than the other two. He could not go unless Sucre did; but some -other day, perhaps, etc. Flat Mouth's remarks were the most astute. -His excuse, whether feigned or not, was good; but as to his intention -of burying the hatchet so far out of sight that he would let the Sioux -strike him even once without digging it up, we may indulge a doubt. - -[V-14] This is true in a certain sense. When Pike was on Cass l., at -the mouth of Turtle r., Feb. 12th-14th., 1806, he was on a -Mississippian water-way of communication with Red r. and so with -Hudsonian waters. But this must not be taken to indicate that he ever -reached the divide between these waters, still less that he passed to -Red r. or Red l. The fact that it has been so taken gives occasion for -this note. For the situation at the dates said, see note 8, p. 157. - -[V-15] Orig. No. 12, though only entitled, "A speech delivered to the -Puants, at the Prairie des Cheins the 20th day of April, 1806," -included, besides the speech covered by this heading, various other -matters which came up April 21st, in another council with the same -Winnebagoes, and furthermore gave a report of a conference with the -Sioux, etc. Accordingly, I separate Orig. No. 12 into two articles, -making Pike's speech Art. 15, and supplying a new head for Art. 16, to -cover the rest of the proceedings at Prairie du Chien. - -[V-16] The above paragraph formed no part of the letter to which it is -appended, being an explanatory note which Pike added when he was about -to print the letter in his book. One reason why the Indians did not -get the medals they had been led to expect is evident in the following -extract of a letter before me from General Wilkinson to the Secretary -of War, dated St. Louis, Dec. 3d, 1805: "The Indians in all directions -Clamour for Medals, & it is found policy to present them, but we have -not one in the Country, or among the factory Goods--If you send any -out let them be addressed to the Superintendant & not the Agent, for -many & obvious reasons--the last aims at too much importance & the -former may need some." - -[V-17] This is the last letter we have from Pike on the subject of the -Mississippi voyage. It is, in fact, a letter of transmittal of his -official report to the commanding general, and thus a sort of preface -or introduction to the whole subject. In two weeks from the date of -this communication Pike had started up the Missouri on his second -expedition, and of course did nothing further with his Mississippi -matters until he had returned from Mexico, the following year. Article -19 therefore completes the batch of miscellaneous documents, chiefly -letters, which I have grouped in this chapter of "Correspondence and -Conferences." But we have still to deal with four formal articles -relating to the Mississippian voyage; these I make the subjects of the -following chapters. - -[V-18] The reference is here to Captain Meriwether Lewis' Statistical -View of the Indian Nations, etc., which formed the second one of five -papers accompanying President Jefferson's message to Congress, Feb. -16th, 1806: see L. and C., ed. 1893, p. cviii. - -[V-19] Mr. George Anderson, the same who furnished Pike with most of -the data he obtained concerning the fur-trade. See next chapter, on -the commerce of the Mississippi. - - - - -CHAPTER VI. - -COMMERCE OF THE MISSISSIPPI.[VI-1] - -_Observations on the trade, views, and policy of the North West -Company, and the national objects connected with their commerce, as it -interests the Government of the United States._[VI-2] - - -The fur-trade in Canada has always been considered an object of the -first importance to that colony, and has been cherished by the -respective governors of that province by every regulation in their -power, under both the French and English administrations. The great -and almost unlimited influence the traders of that country acquired -over the savages was severely felt, and will long be remembered by the -citizens on our frontiers. Every attention was paid by the cabinet of -St. James, in our treaty with Great Britain, to secure to their -Canadian subjects the privilege of the Indian trade within our -territories, and with what judgment they have improved the advantages -obtained by the mother country, time will soon unfold. - -In the year 1766, the trade was first extended from Michilimackinac, -to the northwest, by a few desperate adventurers, whose mode of life -on the voyage, and short residence in civilized society, obtained for -them the appellation of Coureurs des Bois. From those trifling -beginnings arose the present North West Company, who, notwithstanding -the repeated attacks made on their trade, have withstood every shock, -and are now, by the coalition of the late X. Y. Company, established -on so firm a basis as to bid defiance to every opposition which can be -made by private individuals. - -They, by a late purchase of the king's posts in Canada, extend their -line of trade from Hudson's Bay to the St. Lawrence, and up that river -on both sides to the Lakes; thence to the head of Lake Superior, at -which place the North West Company have their headquarters; thence to -the source of Red river and all its tributary streams through the -country to the Missouri; through the waters of Lake Winipie to the -Saskashawin; on that river to its source; up Elk river to the Lake of -the Hills; up Peace river to the Rocky mountains; from the Lake of the -Hills [Lac des Buttes, old French name of Lake Athapasca] up Slave -river to Slave Lake. This year they have dispatched a Mr. [(not Sir) -Alexander] Mackenzie on a voyage of trade and discovery down -Mackenzie's river to the north sea; and also a Mr. M'Coy,[VI-3] to -cross the Rocky mountains and proceed to the western ocean with the -same objects in view. - -They have had a gentleman by the name of [David] Thompson[VI-4] making -a geographical survey of the northwest part of the continent; who, -for three years, with an astonishing spirit of enterprise and -perseverance, passed over all that extensive and unknown country. His -establishment, although not splendid, the mode of traveling not -admitting it, was such as to admit of unlimited expenses in everything -necessary to facilitate his inquiries; and he is now engaged in -digesting the important results of his enterprise. - -I find from the observations and suggestions of Mr. Thompson, when at -the [Julian] source of the Mississippi, that it was his opinion the -line of limits between the United States and Great Britain must run -such a course from the head of the Lake of the Woods as to touch the -source of the Mississippi; and this I discovered to be the opinion of -the North West Company, who, we may suppose or reasonably conclude, -speak the language held forth by their government. The admission of -this pretension will throw out of our territory all the upper part of -Red river, and nearly two-fifths of the territory of Louisiana. -Whereas, if the line be run due west from the head of the Lake of the -Woods, it will cross Red river nearly at the entrance of Reed river, -and, it is conjectured, strike the western ocean at Birch Bay, in -Queen Charlotte Sound. Those differences of opinion, it is presumed, -might be easily adjusted between the two governments at the present -day; but it is believed that delays, by unfolding the true value of -the country, may produce difficulties which do not at present exist. - -The North West Company have made establishments at several places on -the south side of Lake Superior, and on the head waters of the -Sauteaux and St. Croix, which discharge into the Mississippi. The -first I met with on the voyage up was at Lower Red Cedar Lake, about -150 miles above Isle de Corfeau [Corbeau], on the east side of the -river, and distant therefrom six miles. It is situated on the north -point of the lake, and consists of log buildings, flanked by picketed -bastions on two of its angles. The next establishment I met with was -situated on Sandy Lake: for a description of which, see document -[herewith] marked A. Midway between Sandy Lake and Leech Lake is a -small house not worthy of notice [Grant's: see note 52 p. 144]. On -the southwest side of the latter lake, from the outlet of the -Mississippi, stand the headquarters of the Fond du Lac department: for -information relative to which, have reference to document marked B. -Here resides the director of this department. In document C is a -recapitulation of the specific articles of 115 packs of peltry, which -will give an idea of the whole, amounting per said voucher to 233 -packs per annum in the Fond du Lac department. Document D will explain -the relative price of goods in that district; but the trading prices -are various, according to situations and circumstances. Voucher E -shows the number of men, women, and children in the service of the -North West Company in the district aforesaid, with their pay per -annum, etc. This department brings in annually 40 canoes; from which, -by a calculation made by a gentleman [George Anderson] of veracity and -information, who has been 18 years in the Indian trade and in the -habit of importing goods by Michilimackinac, it appears that the -annual amount of duties would be about $13,000. The Lower Red river, -which I conceive to be within our territory, would yield about half -that sum, $6,500, and the Hudson Bay Company's servants, who import by -the way of Lake Winipie, $6,500 more. - -Thus is the United States defrauded annually of about $26,000. From my -observations and information, I think it will be an easy matter to -prevent the smuggling of the Fond du Lac department, by establishing a -post with a garrison of 100 men, and an office of the customs, near -the mouth of the St. Louis, where all goods for the Fond du Lac -department must enter. This is at present the distributing point, -where the company have an establishment, and where the goods, on being -received from Kamanitiquia, are embarked for their different -destinations. That point also commands the communication with Lake de -Sable, Leech Lake, Red Lake, etc. I am also of opinion that the goods -for Red River, if it be within our boundary, would enter here, in -preference to being exposed to seizure. It is worthy of remark that -the charter of the Hudson's Bay Company extends to all its waters: and -if the British government conceived they had authority to make such a -grant, they certainly would claim the country therein specified, which -would extend far south of the west line from the head of the Lake of -the Woods. - -The North West Company were about to push their trade down the -Mississippi until they would have met the traders of Michilimackinac; -but I gave them to understand that it could not be admitted, as -appears per letter to Mr. Dickson. - - -A. _Description of the N. W. Company's Fort at Sandy Lake._ - -The fort at Sandy Lake is situated on the S. side, near the W. end, -and is a stockade 100 feet square, with bastions at the S. E. and N. -W. angles, pierced for small-arms. The pickets are squared on the -outside, round within, about one foot diameter, and 13 feet above -ground. There are three gates: the principal one fronts the lake on -the N., and is 10 x 9 feet; the one on the W. 6 x 4 feet; and the one -on the E. 6 x 5 feet. As you enter by the main gate you have on the -left a building of one story, 20 feet square, the residence of the -superintendent. Opposite this house on the left of the E. gate, is a -house 25 x 15 feet, the quarters of the men. On entering the W. gate -you find the storehouse on the right, 30 x 20 feet, and on your left a -building 40 x 20 feet, which contains rooms for clerks, a workshop, -and provision store. - -On the W. and N. W. is a picketed inclosure of about four acres, in -which last year they raised 400 bushels of Irish potatoes, cultivating -no other vegetables. In this inclosure is a very ingeniously -constructed vault to contain the potatoes, and which likewise has -secret apartments to conceal liquors, dry goods, etc. - - -B. _Description of the N. W. Company's Fort at Leech Lake._ - -The fort is situated on the W. side of the lake, in lat. 47 deg. 16' 13" -N. It is built near the shore, on the declivity of a rising ground, -having an inclosed garden of about 5 acres on the N. W. It is a square -stockade of 150 feet, the pickets being 16 feet in length, 3 feet -under and 13 feet above the ground, bound together by horizontal bars -each 10 feet long. Pickets of 10 feet are likewise driven into the -ground on the inside of the work, opposite the apertures between the -large pickets. At the W. and E. angles are square bastions, pierced -for fire-arms. - -The main building in the rear, fronting the lake, is 60 x 25 feet, 11/2 -story high; the W. end of this is occupied by the director of the Fond -du Lac department. He has a hall 18 feet square, bed-room, and -kitchen, with an office. The center is a trading shop of 121/2 feet -square, with a bedroom in the rear, of the same dimensions. The E. end -is a large store 25 x 20 feet, under which is an ice-house well -filled. The loft extends over the whole building, and contains bales -of goods, packs of peltries; also, chests with 500 bushels of wild -rice. Beside the ice-house, there are cellars under all the other -parts of the building. The doors and window-shutters are musket-proof. - -On the W. side is a range of buildings 54 x 18 feet, fronting the -parade, the N. end of which is a cooper's shop 18 x 14 feet, with a -cellar; joining to which is a room called the Indian hall, expressly -for the reception of Indians, and in which the chiefs who met me in -council were entertained. In this hall are two closed bunks for -interpreters; its dimensions are 22 x 18 feet. Adjoining this is a -room 18 feet square for the clerks, in which my small party were -quartered. Under both of the latter rooms are cellars. - -On the E. side is a range of buildings 50 x 18 feet, which has one -room of 20 feet and one of 15 feet, for quarters for the men; also, a -blacksmith's shop of 15 feet, which is occupied by an excellent -workman. On the left of the main gate, fronting the river, is the -flag-staff, 50 feet in height. - -They intended building a small blockhouse over the main gate, fronting -the lake, to place a small piece of artillery in. There are likewise -gates on the N. and E. flanks, of about 10 x 8 feet. - - -D. _The price of goods in exchange with the Indians._ - - Blankets, 3 and 21/2 point, each, [VI-5]plus 4 $8 - Blankets, 2 point, each, 2 4 - Blankets, 11/2 point, each, 1 2 - Blue strouds, per fathom, 4 8 - Scarlet cloth, 8-6, 6 12 - Worsted binding, per piece, 4 8 - Vermilion, per pound, 4 8 - Molten [glass beads], blue and white, per fathom, 2 4 - Gunpowder, per half-pint, 1 2 - Balls, per 30, 1 2 - Shot of all sorts, per handful, 1 2 - Tobacco, per carrot, 4 8 - Twist tobacco, per fathom, 1 2 - Beaver-traps, each, 4 8 - Half-axes, each, 2 4 - Castites, 1 2 - N. W. guns, each, 10 20 - Knives, each, 1 2 - -For wampum and silver works, as well as rum, there is no regulation; -but the real price of goods here, in exchange for peltry, is about 250 -per cent. on the prime cost. - - GEO. ANDERSON. - - -C.--_Recapitulation of Furs and Peltries, North West Company, 1804-5, -Fond du Lac Department; Marks and Numbers as per margin._ - - TABLE LEGEND: - Column A = Marks. - Column B = Numbers. - Column C = Wt. of Packs, lbs. - Column D = Bears. - Column E = Bear Cubs. - Column F = Beaver, Mixed. - Column G = Beaver, Large. - Column H = Beaver, Small. - Column I = Beaver, Wt. in lbs. - Column J = Badgers. - Column K = Carcajoux. - Column L = Deer. - Column M = Foxes. - Column N = Fishers. - Column O = Lynxes. - Column P = Martens. - Column Q = Minks. - Column R = Original skins dr's'd. - Column S = Do. Parchment. - Column T = Do. Green. - Column U = Otters. - Column V = Racoons. - Column W = Musk Rats. - Column X = Wolves. - - ======+====+===+==+=+==+==+==+==+==+=+==+=+==+==+===+==+==+==+==+===+==+===+= - A | B | C | D|E| F| G| H| I| J|K| L|M|N | O| P | Q| R| S| T| U | V| W |X - ------+----+---+--+-+--+--+--+--+--+-+--+-+--+--+---+--+--+--+--+---+--+---+- - N. W. | 1 | 92| | | | | | | | |45| | | | | | | | | | | | - L. L. | 2 | 92| | | | | | | | |47| | | | | | | | | | | | - [Leech| 3 | 93| | | | | | | | |47| | | | | | | | | | | | - Lake] | 4 | 91| | | | | | | | |45| | | | | | | | | | | | - | 5 | 90| | | | | | | | |47| | | | | | | | | | | | - | 6 | 91| | | | | | | | |47| | | | | | | | | | | | - | 7 | 92| | | | | | | | |39| | | | | | | | | | | | - | 8 | 87| | | | | | | | |40| | | | | | | | | | | | - | 9 | 92| | | | | | | | |38| | | | | | | | | | | | - | 10 | 91| | | | | | | | |38| | | | | | | | | | | | - | 11 | 92| | | | | | | | |38| | | | | | | | | | | | - | 12 | 87| | | | | | | | |38| | | | | | | | | | | | - | 13 | 90| | | | | | | | |44| | | | | | | | | | | | - | 14 | 92| | | | | | | | |39| | | | | | | | | | | | - | 15 | 93| | | | | | | | |35| | | | | | | | | | | | - | 16 | 93| | | | | | | | |40| | | | | | | | | | | | - | 17 | 99| | | | | | | | |40| | | | | | | | | | | | - | 18 | 88| | | | | | | | |35| | | | | | | | | | | | - | 19 | 96| | | | | | | | | 2| | | | | | | | | | |655| - | 20 | 95| | | | | | | | | 2| | | | | | | | | | |607| - | 21 | 90| | |68| | |90| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | 22 | 89| | |66| | |89| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | 23 | 92| | |64| | |92| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | 24 | 92| | |71| | |92| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | 25 | 92| | |68| | |92| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | 26 | 92| | |65| | |92| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | 27 | 91| | |73| | |91| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | 28 | 89| | |75| | |89| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | 29 | 90| | |75| | |90| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | 30 | 90| | |85| | |90| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | 31 | 91| | |61| | |91| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | 32 | 92| | |60| | |92| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | 33 | 91| | |67| | |91| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | 34 | 91| | |74| | |91| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | 35 | 91| 5| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |60 | | | - | 36 | 99| 4| | | | | | | | 2| | | | | | | | |60 | | | - | 37 | 92|18| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | 38 | 93| 4| | | | | | | | 3| |22|25| | | | | |22 | | | - | 39 | 92| 6| | | | | | | | | |11| 4| | 2| | | |16 | 1| 94| - | 40 | 87| 6| | | | | | |1| 2|1|11| | 5|21| | | | |27|144| - | 41 | 92| 6| |29| | |20| | | 7| | 1| 1| | 5| | | |16 |10| 58| - | 42 | 93| | |66| | |93| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | 43 | 93| | |79| | |93| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | 44 | 90| | |70| | |93| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | 45 | 93| 2| | | | | | 1| |12| | 3| | 14| 2|13| | |7-1/3 | 2| 9 | - | 46 | 91| | | |79| | |91| | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | 47 | 90| | | |89| | |90| | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | 48 | 91| | | |69| | |91| | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | 49 | 91| | | |73| | |91| | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | 50 | 87| 2| | | | | | |1| 2| |12| 1| 3|15| 4| | |45 | | | - | 51 |104| 2| |36| | | | | | 1| | 2| 2| | 2| 2| | |10 | 1|137| - | 52 |127| 1| |46| | | | | | | | 4| | 4| 3| 2| | |11 | 2|117| - N. W. | 1 | 94| | | |57| 9|94| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - R. | 2 | 91| | | |51|14|91| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - [Red | 3 | 92| | | |50|22|92| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - Lake] | 4 | 92| | | |49|19|92| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | 5 | 92| | | |54|31|92| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | 6 | 92| | | |59| 6|62| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | 7 | 95| 7|1| | 2| | | | | | | | 3| | |11| | | | 3| | - | 8 | 92| | | | 2| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |672| - | 9 | 92| | | | | | | |1| 1| |15| | | | | | 1|67 | | |1 - | 10 | 90| | | | 1| | | | | 1| | | 3| | |11| | | | | | - | 11 | 90| 8|2| | 2| | | | | |1| 3| 7| 37|24| 5| | | | | 3| - | 12 | 95| | | |45| 8| | | | | | 2| | | | | | |11 |13| | - | 13 | 93| 4|4| | | | | | | | |11| | 7|19| 9| 1| | 1 | 3| 58| - | 14 | 93| 2|2| |13| 9| | | | | | 7| | 1| 1|11| | | 6 | 4| 6| - | 15 | 92| | | | 3| 6|14| | | | | | | 2| 1| | 2| 8| 1 | | 1| - N. W. | 1 | 86| | | | | | | | |14|1|18| | 3| 7| | | |25 | 7| | - S. | 2 | 91| | | | | | | | | 6| | | | | | | | | | |500| - [Sandy| 3 | 88| | | |40|29|88| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - Lake.]| 4 | 91| | | |37|32|91| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | 5 | 91| | | |37|30|91| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | 6 | 90| | | |31|37|90| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | 7 | 89| | | |38|26|89| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | 8 | 92| | | |41|33|92| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | 9 | 86| | | |43|17|86| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | 10 | 87| | | |32|40|87| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | 11 | 88| | | |41|28|88| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | 12 | 90| | | |44|22|90| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | 13 | 87| | | |35|38|87| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | 14 | 92| | | |43|23|92| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | 15 | 95| | | | | | | | | 5| |22| | | | | | |63 | | | - | 16 | 92| | | | | | | | |25| | 6| 3| 15|14| | | | |16| | - | 17 | 86| | | | | | | | |32| | | | | | | | | | | | - | 18 | 90| | | | | | | | |31| | | | | | | | | | | | - | 19 | 91| | | | | | | | |29| | | | | | | | | | | | - | 20 | 95| | | | | | | | |33| | | | | | | | | | | | - | 21 | 87| 7|1| |30| |43| | | 6| | | | | | | | | | | | - | 22 | 83| | | |38|33|83| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | 23 | 93| | | |34|42|93| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | 24 | 87| | | |34|43|87| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | 25 | 89| | | |36|37|89| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | 26 | 92| | | |57|14|92| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | 27 | 94|16|1| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | 28 | 94| 4| | | | | | | | 2| |11| | | | | | |58 | | | - | 29 | 90| | | | | | | | | 2| | | | | | | | | | |60 | - | 30 | 91| | | | | | | | | | | 5| 1| 43|22| 1|11| | |10| | - | 31 | 93| | | | | | | | |39| | | | | | | | | | | | - | 32 | 93| | | | | | | | |43| | | | | | | | | | | | - | 33 | 90| | | | | | | | |43| | | | | | | | | | | | - | 34 | 91| | | | | | | | |35| | | | | | | | | | | | - | 35 | 99| | | | | | | | |41| | | | | | | | | | | | - | 36 | 86| | | | | | | | |44| | | | | | | | | | | | - | 37 | 72| | | | | | | | | 7| | | | | 2|13| 1| | 1 | | 55| - | 38 | 92| 1| | |35|33| | | | 5| | | | | | 1| | | 5 | | | - F. L. |Sum-| | 1| | | 7| |12| | | | | 1| | | 3| | 1| | 4 | |162| - |mer | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - [Fond |Nos.| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - du | 1 | 91| | | | 2| | 4| | | | | | | | | | | | | |615| - Lac.] | 2 | 93| | | |51|14|93| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | 3 | 92| | | |45|24|92| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | 4 | 93| | | |44|25|93| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | 5 | 88| | | |41|34|88| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | 6 | 95| 5| | | | | | | | | | | |199|40| 8| | | | | | - | 7 | 95| 5| | | | | | | | | |16| | | | 6| | |35 | | | - | 8 | 95| 4| | | | | | | | | | | | | | 1| | | | |472| - | 9 | 93| 9|4| | | | | | | 2|1| | 3| | | 6| | | 6 | 6| 49| - | 10 | 98| |1| |30|19| | | | 1| | | | | | 2| | 2| | | | - |A. | | | | |11| |15| | | | | | | 2| | 2| | | 3 | | | - |Pac-| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - |ton | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - ------+----+---+--+-+--+--+--+--+--+-+--+-+--+--+---+--+--+--+--+---+--+---+- - Amount of the above returns, 115 Packs. - Different establishments not included, 34 Packs. - Amount of the E. of the X. Y. Company, 84 Packs. - Total amount, 233 Packs. - - -E. _Return of men employed in the N. W. Company's Department of Fond -du Lac, for 1805, with the amount of their wages per annum, etc._ - - Accountants, 3 - Clerks, and men receiving interpreters' wages, 19 - Interpreters, 2 - Canoe-men, 85 - --- - Total, 109 - - _Women and Children belonging to the Establishment._ - - Women, 29 - Children, 50 - --- - Total, 79 - - Livres. - - Sum of the wages per annum of the above 109 men, 63,913 - Average wages of each man, 586 7 - Due by the N. W. Company, 38,566 8 - Due to the N. W. Company, 24,326 16 - -N. B. The above women are all Indians, there not being a single white -woman N. W. of Lake Superior. - -FOOTNOTES: - -[VI-1] This article, for which I introduce a new chapter, with a new -major head, formed Doc. No. 17 of the orig. ed., pp. 35-40 and a -folder, of the Appendix to Pt. 1. The original title of the piece is -preserved as a minor head of the chapter, and this will also serve to -effect some sort of typographical uniformity with the following five -pieces, A, B, C, D, E, which are integral parts of the article, yet -were in the orig. ed. separated from the rest of the article under a -different heading, in larger type than the main heading itself; -moreover, the piece marked C, whose proper position was of course -between B and D, was a separate folding blanket-sheet bound to face p. -40, thus coming after E. The construction of this table is such that -it can be printed on two pages of the present edition, and be put -between D and E. - -Pike's remarks on the fur-trade are sound and very much to the point; -together with his descriptions of the trading-houses, etc., they -represent probably the best account extant of things as they were in -1805. His present Observations, etc., as well as his correspondence -with Hugh M'Gillis (Arts. 8 and 9 of the foregoing chapter, pp. -247-254), were extracted for use in the Statutes, Documents, and -Papers bearing on the Discussion respecting the Northern and Western -Boundaries of the Province of Ontario, pub. Toronto, Hunter, Rose and -Co., 1877, 8vo, pp. 318-323. - -[VI-2] The Indian trade is not among the least of the vexed questions -which the United States has sought to answer in the natural and -necessary process of causing the Indians to make their exeunt from the -world's stage. The prices at which goods were sold by private -individuals, whether French, English, or American, seem exorbitant, -extortionate--in a word, monstrous! But trade is a thing that seems to -regulate itself, without regard to theory or sentiment; the Indian -trade certainly did. I once asked the lion-tamer of a popular circus -what was the secret of his profession, expecting some discerning -remarks from him on the power of the human eye over wild beasts, and -so forth; but all he told me was, "You just have to know your lion." -In war, trade, or religion, you just have to know your Indian, as our -soldiers, traders, and priests found out for their respective selves. -General Whiting has some extremely moderate and judicious words on the -subject, in his Life of Pike, p. 231 _seq._, which I will reproduce in -substance, as it was a part of Pike's business on this voyage to keep -an eye on the Indian traders and trade. The various expenses attending -the transport of goods swelled the original value to such an -extraordinary degree that a knife cost an Indian the ordinary price of -a handsome sword, when he stuck it in his belt; and by the time his -squaw had put a yard and a half of blue strouds around her waist, her -lord was in debt for an amount that would have bought a city belle a -ball dress. Such high prices would have been ruinous to the Indian had -not their trade customs furnished a corrective. Few Indians ever -hunted beforehand; they seldom got their stock of skins to offer for -sale at a fair or any price, else the traffic would have been on more -nearly equal terms. They must have their outfit for the chase first, -and then they must feel the pangs of hunger before they would start on -a hunt. The trader was obliged to overcome their indolence by offering -certain inducements, besides furnishing the necessary means. This was -an invention of necessity on which the whole system of credits was -based, and on which such a structure of extortion and other evils was -reared. The trader had to let his goods go on credit into lazy, -improvident, always uncertain and often dishonest or criminal hands, -with no security for any adequate return for his outlay except in a -scale of ordinary prices that would cover him in case of extraordinary -losses. He took great risks and put up his premium accordingly. He -expected to realize 200 to 250 per cent. on the price of goods for -which he got anything, to cover the loss on what he got nothing for. -Thus the Indians were a prey to cupidity and extortion; they were -swindled, as it seems to us. Yet they had a way of getting even with -the most unprincipled trader, sometimes of beating him at his own -game. At the end of the hunt the Indian brought in his peltries. "If -these paid his debt," says Whiting, "which was not often the case, the -account was squared; if an arrearage remained, as was generally the -case, no reasoning nor threats could convince the red man that the -responsibility held over to another season, and that his obligations -survived the hunt. When that hunt terminated, and the furs obtained by -it had been fairly rendered, he considered the account as canceled. -Whether it was balanced or not was a question he did not undertake to -answer. - -"One of the objects Lieutenant Pike appears to have been instructed to -keep in view while on his trip, was the investigation of these evils -of the Indian trade, and to ascertain where proper trading -establishments could be fixed, which were intended to correct them. -These establishments were of course to be made under the patronage of -the Government. They were afterward actually made under the 'factor' -system. In a benevolent spirit, the United States enacted that certain -stores should be conveniently placed within the Indian territory, -where factors, having a salary and no interest in the trade, were to -keep on hand a constant supply of articles suitable for the Indians, -which were to be exchanged with them for peltries, the articles -bearing only a fair cost, all expenses included, and the peltries -being received at a fair rate. Government thus, out of kindness to the -Indians, became a trader, and a competitor with individual traders. - -"The theory was as promising as it was benevolent; but, like many -theories, it did not fulfill expectation when put into practice. It is -true that the Indian under it was sure of a just equivalent for such -furs and peltries as he brought in. This assurance was spread abroad -by agents, and was generally known and understood. But an important -consideration had been omitted in the calculations that suggested the -arrangement. Most of the Indians are improvident, and leave the morrow -to take care of itself. The future causes them no anxiety. It is the -present moment, with its gratifications, or its wants, that occupies, -almost exclusively, their minds--the former exhausted with blind -avidity, the latter borne with passive endurance. They seldom lay up -the means of providing themselves with the small equipments of a -hunting expedition. While they used the bow and arrow, it was -different. Then a few hours' exertion of their own hands provided all -that was necessary. But the moment a gun was put into their hands, -their dependence upon the trader was secured. They must have -ammunition, or their guns were more useless than the bow and arrow; -and they could obtain this only on credit. - -"Hence the United States factor, who had a knife at a few shillings, -and a stroud at not many more, and powder and ball at a fair rate, but -who could sell for cash only, or its equivalent, would find his -shelves nearly as full at the end of the season as at the beginning; -while the individual trader, who sold on credit, though he might sell -at an enormous profit, at a thousand per cent. above his government -competitor, would empty his shelves in a few weeks. Besides, no system -can work well unless it is managed well. The factor was expected, by -the law, to be honest and disinterested; and he was often so. Still, -he was in a remote part of the country, and beset by temptations, and -dealt with a people that were supposed to be unable to tell tales that -could be understood. The system was abandoned after a vain experiment -of a few years." - -About the time that Pike was on this expedition, Lewis and Clark also -had their attention turned to the same business. One of the results of -their observations was Lewis' Essay on an Indian Policy, which had -special regard to the commercial aspects of the case, and will never -go entirely out of date till the last Indian has bought his last -bullet, or had it fired into him. The reader is referred to this -article, occupying pp. 1215-43 of the 1893 ed. of L. and C. - -Trade is one of those things which, like a hen hunting for a nest, -does best when let alone. Any hen will lay more eggs and hatch more -chicks in a nest of her own selection than in the most artful -contrivances of the coop to provide for her comfort and convenience. -All interference with a man's tendency to take advantage of his -neighbor is unwise, and injurious to both parties. It tends to sharpen -the wits of the one and make him more of a knave than he was before; -while it blunts the wits of the other with a specious sense of being -protected, and thus makes him a bigger fool than ever. Trade being -what it is, in consequence of the great quantity of human nature there -is in mankind, can never be legislated into anything else than an -attempt to enrich one's self at another's expense by buying cheap and -selling dear. Free trade in all the markets of the world is the only -natural postulate; all tariff regulations and restrictions are simply -necessary concessions to the inherent weakness of artificial systems -of trade. The evils of damming individual channels of trade--or -rather, of attempting to dam them with desultory yet reiterated -interference--reach a climax of absurdity and injury in what is known -as tariff-tinkering. Very likely they ought to be _dammed_--all -avenues of selfishness ought to be; but they never will be in this -world. As to the practical worldly wisdom displayed in specific -measures to promote commercial activity by legislative interference, -it is probable that any jockey in the land, with a hidebound horse for -sale and some arsenic in his pocket, could give our legislators -pointers on those tricks which are said to be in all trades but ours. - -[VI-3] "A Mr. M'Coy" is not easily identified. I am inclined to think -that the name is McKay or Mackay, and that the person meant is -Alexander Mackay, who had been with Sir A. Mackenzie, left the N. W. -Co. in 1810, for Astor's American Fur Co., and was blown up with the -ship Tonquin in 1811; but I am far from feeling sure of this. - -[VI-4] David Thompson was among the Mandans from Dec. 29th, 1797, to -Jan. 10th, 1798. He left McDonald's house, which was near the mouth of -Mouse r., on Nov. 28th, en route to the Missouri. On Dec. 7th he -reached the old Ash house on Mouse r., "settled two years ago and -abandoned the following spring." Being unable to procure a guide here, -he took the lead himself and struck for Turtle mountain, west of which -he again crossed Mouse r., and followed this stream up to the bight of -the great loop it makes in North Dakota, at a point 37 m. from the -Missouri. Here leaving the river and coming south over the plains, he -struck the Missouri Dec. 29th, at a point 6 m. above the uppermost -Mandan village. These villages are said to have been five in number, -and to have contained in all 318 houses and seven tents, inhabited by -Mandan and Willow Indians in about equal numbers. (The census of the -Willow Indians is given as from 2,200 to 2,500, in another place in -Thompson's MS., where he calls them Fall Indians.) While among the -Mandans Thompson prepared a vocabulary of about 375 words of their -language. He left the villages Jan. 10th, 1798; but being delayed by -storms, it was Jan. 24th before he reached Mouse r., and Feb. 3d when -he regained McDonald's house. I take these items from J. B. Tyrrell's -paper on the journeys of David Thompson, read before the Canadian -Institute Mar. 3d, 1888, and pub. in advance of the Proceedings, -Toronto, 1888, 8vo, pp. 7, 8: see also note 9, 167. Another account -of Thompson's travels occupies pp. 94-103 of Statutes, etc., N. and W. -Bound. Ontario, pub. Toronto, 8vo, 1877. - -[VI-5] The _plus_ in the fur-trade was the standard of value, viz.: one -prime beaver (abiminikwa). In the above scale of prices the _plus_ was -reckoned as $2. The scale was a multiple or fraction of this, which -answered the purpose of an English shilling, French franc, Indian -rupee, or our dollar. Thus Perrault tells us that in 1784 a bear, an -otter, or a lynx was worth a _plus_; three martens or 15 muskrats were -also a _plus_; a buffalo was two _plus_, etc. A keg of "made" liquor, -_i. e._, three-fourths water, one-fourth alcohol, with a little -strychnine, _Cocculus indicus_, or tobacco-juice to flavor and color -it, has been sold to many an Indian for 20 to 40 _plus_. During my -recent canoe voyage to the source of the Mississippi, I believe that I -could have been provisioned, lodged, and transported by the Chippewas -for a month at the cost of a gallon or two of "made" whisky, had I -been provided with that article and disposed to put it to an unlawful -purpose. - - - - -CHAPTER VII. - -GEOGRAPHY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.[VII-1] - -_Observations on the Soil, Shores, Quarries, Timber, Islands, Rapids, -Confluent Streams, Highlands, Prairies, and Settlements on the -Mississippi,[VII-2] from St. Louis to its Source._ - - -From St. Louis to the mouth of the Missouri, on the east is a rich -sandy soil, timbered with buttonwood, ash, cottonwood, hackberry, etc. -The west side is highlands for a short distance above the town; then -it is bordered by a small prairie, after which is bottom-land, with -the same timber as on the east. The current is rapid, and the -navigation in low water obstructed by sand-bars. - -Immediately on the peninsula formed by the confluence of the -Mississippi and Missouri rivers is a small Kickapoo settlement, -occupied in summer only. On the west shore is a rich prairie, with -small skirts of woods; and on the east shore is generally high hills, -from 80 to 100 feet, extending to the mouth of the Illinois. The -current of the Mississippi, above the entrance of the Missouri, is -quite mild until you arrive at the mouth of the Illinois; where, -owing to the large sand-bars and many islands, it is extremely rapid. - -The Illinois River is about 450 yards wide at its mouth, and bears -from the Mississippi N. 75 deg. W. The current appears not to exceed 21/2 -miles per hour. The navigation and connecting streams of this river -are too well known to require a description at the present day. From -the Illinois to Buffalo river the E. shore is hills, but of easy -ascent. On the W. is continued the prairie, but not always bordering -on the river. The timber on both sides is generally hackberry, -cottonwood, and ash. Buffalo [Cuivre] river comes in on the W. shore, -and appears to be about 100 yards wide at its mouth; it bears from the -Mississippi S. 30 deg. W. From the Illinois to this river the navigation -is by no means difficult, and the current mild. - -Thence to Salt or Oahahah river, the east shore is either immediately -bounded by beautiful cedar cliffs, or the ridges may be seen at a -distance. On the W. shore there is a rich low soil, and two small -rivers which increase the waters of the Mississippi. The first -[Buffalo creek] called Bar river, about 20 yards in width. The second -[now Noir[VII-3] or Bear creek] is about 15 yards. Salt river bears from -the Mississippi N. 75 deg. W., and is about 100 or 120 yards wide at its -entrance, and when I passed appeared to be perfectly mild, with -scarcely any current. About one day's sail up the river there are salt -springs, which have been worked for four years; but I am not informed -as to their qualities or productions. In this distance the navigation -of the Mississippi is very much obstructed by bars and islands; indeed -to such a degree as to render it in many places difficult to find the -proper channel. The shores are generally a sandy soil, timbered with -sugar-maple, ash, pecan, locust, and black walnut. The E. side has -generally the preference as to situations for buildings. - -From this to the river Jaustioni [Jauflione, Jeffrion, or North Two -Rivers: see note 14, pp. 10, 11], which is our boundary between the -Sac nation and the United States on the west side of the Mississippi, -we have hills on the W. shore, and lowlands on the E., the latter of -which is timbered with hickory, oak, ash, maple, pecan, etc.; the -former the same, with an increase of oak. The E. is a rich sandy -soil, and has many very eligible situations for cultivation. About -seven miles below the Jaustioni a Frenchman is settled on the W. -shore. He is married to a woman of the Sac nation, and lives by a -little cultivation and the Indian trade. The [North] river before -mentioned is about 30 yards wide at its mouth, and bears from the -Mississippi about S. W. In this part of the river the navigation is -good. - -From this to the Wyaconda river [at La Grange, Lewis Co., Mo.] the -navigation is easy, with very few impediments; and the soil on both -sides pretty good. This river pays its tribute to the Mississippi by a -mouth 100 yards wide, and bears from the latter nearly due W. Just -below its entrance is [Durgan's creek] a small stream 15 yards wide, -which discharges into the Mississippi. Between this river and the -River de Moyen [Des Moines] there is one small [Fox] river emptying -into the Mississippi on the W., about 55 yards in width, and bearing -S. by W. The first part of the distance is obstructed by islands, and -the river expands to a great width, so as to render the navigation -extremely difficult; but the latter part affords more water and is -less difficult. The timber is principally oak and pecan; the soil as -on the river below. For a description of de Moyen, see the chart -herewith; and for that of the rapids [near Keokuk] see my diary of -Aug. 20th. - -Above the rapid de Moyen, on the W. bank of the Mississippi [at -Montrose, Lee Co., Ia.], is situated the first Sac village, consisting -of 13 lodges; and immediately opposite is the establishment of Mr. -Ewing,[VII-4] the American agent at that place. Whence to a large -prairie on the E. side, on which [and on Henderson river] is situated -the second Sac village; the E. side of the river is beautiful land, -principally prairie. The W. is in some part highland; both sides are -timbered with oak, ash, etc. The navigation is by no means difficult. - -Thence to the Iowa river the navigation is much obstructed with -islands. In ascending Iowa river 36 miles you come to a fork, the -right branch of which is called Red Cedar river, from the quantity of -that wood on its banks; this is navigable for batteaux nearly 300 -miles, where it branches out into three forks, called the Turkey's -foot. Those forks shortly after lose themselves in Rice lakes. - -The Iowa river bears from the Mississippi S. W. and is 150 yards wide -at its mouth. The E. shore of the Mississippi is high prairie, with -yellow clay banks, and in some places red sand. On the W. is prairie -also, but bounded on the shore by skirts of woods. About 10 miles up -the Iowa river, on its right bank, is a village of the Iowas. - -From this place to Rock river we generally had beautiful prairies on -the W., but in some places very rich land, with black walnut and -hickory timber. Stony [Rock] river is a large river which takes its -source near Green bay of Lake Michigan more than 450 miles from its -mouth, and is navigable upward of 300 miles; it empties into the -Mississippi on the E. shore, and is about 300 yards wide at its mouth. -It bears from the Mississippi almost due E. About three miles up this -river, on the S. bank [Milan, Rock Island Co., Ill.], is situated the -third town of the Sac nation, which, I was informed by Mr. James Aird, -was burned in the year 1781 or 1782, by about 300 Americans, although -the Indians had assembled 700 warriors to give them battle. For a -description of the rapids of Stony river, see my diary of Aug. 28th. - -Between Iowa river and Turkey river, on the W., you find Wabisipinekan -river. It coasts along Red Cedar river in a parallel direction, with -scarcely any wood on its banks. The next water is the Great Macoketh, -and 20 leagues higher is the little river of the same name. These two -rivers appear to approach each other, and have nothing remarkable -excepting lead mines, which are said to be in their banks. - -A little above the rapids of Rock river, on the W. side of the -Mississippi, is situated the first Reynard village; it consists of -about 18 lodges [Le Claire, Scott Co., Ia.]. From this place to the -lead mines [Dubuque, Ia.] the Mississippi evidently becomes narrower; -but the navigation is thereby rendered much less difficult. The shores -are generally prairie, which, if not immediately bordering on the -river, can be seen through the skirts of forests which border the -river. The timber is generally maple, birch, and oak, and the soil -very excellent. To this place we had seen only a few turkeys and deer, -the latter of which are pretty numerous from the river de Moyen up. -For a description of the lead mines, see my report from the prairie -des Chiens of Sept. 5th.[VII-5] - -From the lead mines unto Turkey river the Mississippi continues about -the same width; and the banks, soil, and productions are entirely -similar. Turkey river empties on the W., bears from the Mississippi -about S. W., and is about 100 yards wide at its mouth. Half a league -up this river, on the right bank, is the third village of the -Reynards, at which place they raise sufficient corn to supply all the -permanent and transient inhabitants of the Prairie des Chiens. Thence -to the Ouiscousing the high hills are perceptible on both sides, but -on the W. almost border the river the whole distance. The Ouiscousing -at its entrance is nearly half a mile wide, and bears from the -Mississippi nearly N. E. - -This river is the grand source of communication between the lakes and -the Mississippi, and the route by which all the traders of -Michilimackinac convey their goods for the trade of the Mississippi -from St. Louis to the river de Corbeau, and the confluent streams -which are in those boundaries. - - * * * * * - -The voyage from Michilimackinac to the Prairie des Chiens, by the -Ouiscousing and Fox rivers, is as follows:[VII-6] - - "The distance between Michilimackinac and the settlement at - the bottom of Green bay is calculated to be 80 leagues. On - leaving Michilimackinac there is a traverse of five miles - to Point St. Ignace [in Mackinac Co., Mich.], which is the - entrance into Lake Michigan. Four leagues from - Michilimackinac is an island of considerable extent, named - St. Helens [or Helena], which may be seen from that place - on a clear day. The shore [of Lake Michigan] from - Michilimackinac to Point du Chene [Pointe au Chene, Oak - Point], which is a league distant from the island, is - rocky; and from this point to the island of Epouvette, - which is a very small one near the banks of the lake, is - high and covered with pine; the soil is very barren. From - this island to the river Mino Cockien [Milakokia] is five - leagues. Two small islands are on the way, and a river - where boats and canoes may take shelter from a storm. The - river Mino Cockien is large and deep, and takes its rise - near Lake Superior. From this to Shouchoir [Pointe Seul - Choix, in Schoolcraft Co., Mich.] is ten leagues. The shore - [along by Points Patterson, Scott, and Hughes] is - dangerous, from the number of shoals that extend a great - way into the lake. This rock [or point], called Shouchoir, - is an excellent harbor for canoes, but its entrance, when - the wind blows from the lake, is difficult; but when once - in, canoes and boats may lie during any storm without - unlading. A custom prevails here among the voyagers for - everyone to have his name carved on the rocks the first - time he passes, and pay something to the canoe-men. From - this to the river Manistique [Monistique, at Epsport, - Schoolcraft Co., Mich.] is five leagues. This is a large - river; the entrance is difficult, from a sand-bank at its - mouth, and the waves are very high when the wind blows from - the lake. At certain seasons sturgeon are found here in - great numbers. The banks of this river are high and sandy, - covered with pine. It takes its rise [in part] from a large - lake [of the same name], and nearly communicates with Lake - Superior. From this to the Detour [Pointe de Tour (Turning - Point), end of the peninsula in Delta Co., between Baie de - Noc and Lake Michigan] is 10 leagues [passing Point - Wiggins, Pointe au Barque, and Portage bay]. The shore is - rocky, flat, and dangerous. Here begins the Traverse, at - the mouth of Green bay. The first island is distant from - the mainland about a league, and is called the Isle au - Detour [now Big Summer island]; it is at least three - leagues in circumference. There are generally a few - Sauteaux lodges of Indians on this island during the summer - months. From this to Isle Brule [Gravelly island] is three - leagues. There are two small [Gull] islands from these to - Isle Verte [St. Martin's island], and it is two leagues to - Isle de Pou [Washington island], called so from the - Poutowatomies having once had a village here, now - abandoned. In the months of May and June there is a fishery - of trout [_Salmo (Cristivomer) namaycush_], and they are - taken in great quantities by trolling. There are also - whitefish [_Coregonus clupeiformis_] in vast numbers. The - ship channel is between this island and Isle Verte. Thence - to Petit D'Etroit [Detroit] to the mainland is three - leagues, where some lodges of Ottawas and Sauteaux raise - small quantities of corn; but their subsistence, during the - summer months, chiefly depends upon the quantities of - sturgeon [_Acipenser rubicundus_] and other fish, with - which the lake here abounds. From Petit D'Etroit [the - strait between Washington island and the mainland of Door - Co., Wis., in which are Detroit, Plum, and Pilot islands] - to the mainland is three leagues, and is called the Port de - Mort [Porte des Morts], from a number of Reynard canoes - having been wrecked at this place, where everyone perished. - The shore is bold and rocky [Hedgehog Harbor, Death's Door - Bluffs, Sister Bluffs, etc.]. From this it is four leagues - to the Isle Racro [Horseshoe island, in Eagle bay], which - is a safe harbor, inaccessible to all winds. From this to - Sturgeon bay is eight leagues. The shore is bold and rocky - [Eagle Bluff, Egg Harbor, etc.], and several large - [Chambers, Green, and the small Strawberry, and Hat] - islands lie a few miles distant. A few Sauteaux families - raise corn here and reside during the summer season. Trout - and sturgeon are here in great numbers. Sturgeon's bay is - two miles across and about four leagues in length, and - communicates by a portage [now a canal] with Lake Michigan, - near Michilimackinac. Distant from the lake about two - leagues is the Isle Vermillion [off Little Sturgeon bay]. - Here were a few years ago a number of Fols Avoin - inhabitants, who were accustomed to raise corn; but for - what reasons they have left this place I cannot learn. From - this is 13 leagues to the entrance of Fox river. On leaving - Isle Vermillion, the woods and general appearance of the - country begin to change, and have a very different aspect - from the more northern parts of this lake [_i. e._, Green - bay]. A small river called Riviere Rouge [Red river, and - town of same name, in Kewaunee Co.] falls into the lake - [Green bay], about halfway between Isle Vermillion and La - Baye [La Baie;[VII-7] location of Green Bay, seat of Brown - Co.]. On approaching La Baye, the water of the latter - [lake, _i. e._, Green bay] assumes a whiter appearance, and - becomes less deep. A channel which winds a good deal may be - found for vessels of 50 and 60 tons burden; loaded vessels - of these dimensions have gone up Fox river to the French - settlement [of La Baie, site of Depere], opposite which is - the Fols Avoin village [present site of Nicollet], which - consists of 10 or 12 bark lodges. A great number of - Sauteaux, and some Ottawas, come here in the spring and - fall. Three leagues from La Baye [present Green Bay] is a - small village [below present Little Kaukauna] of the same - nation; and there is another three leagues higher, at the - portage of Kakalin [Little Rapids[VII-8]]. This portage is a - mile long; the ground even and rocky. There is a fall of - about ten feet, which obstructs the navigation. For three - leagues higher are almost continual rapids, until the fall - of Grand Konimee [vicinity of present Kaukauna], about five - feet high. Above this, the river opens into a small lake, - at the end of which is a strong rapid, called Puant's rapid - [now Winnebago rapids], which issues from a lake of that - name [_i. e._, Lake Winnebago, in Winnebago Co.[VII-9]]. This - lake is 10 leagues long, and from two to three wide. At its - entrance [where are now Menasha and Neenah, Winnebago Co.] - is another Puant village, of about the same number of - lodges, and at this end is a small river, which, with the - interval of a few portages, communicates with Rock river - [of Wisconsin and Illinois]. About midway between the two - Puant villages is a Fols Avoin village, on the south - [-east] side of the lake [in Calumet Co.], of 50 or 60 men. - Five leagues from the entrance of the lake, on the north - [-west] side, Fox river falls in [at Oshkosh, Winnebago - Co.], and is about 200 yards wide. Ascending two leagues - higher, is a small Fols Avoin village, where is a lake [Lac - Butte des Morts] more than two leagues long; and about a - league above this lake the river de Loup [Wolf river, after - flowing through Poygan lake] joins Fox river near a hill - [and town] called the But de Mort [Butte des Morts], where - the Fox nation were nearly exterminated by the French and - Confederate Indians. The rivers and lakes are, at certain - seasons, full of wild rice. The country on the borders of - this [Fox] river is finely diversified with woods and - prairies. Any quantity of hay may be made, and it is as - fine a country for raising stock as any in the same - latitude through all America. From the But de Mort to the - Lac a Puckway[VII-10] is 28 leagues. Here is another Puant - village, of seven or eight large lodges. This lake is three - leagues long; four leagues above it Lac de Boeuff [Buffalo - lake] begins, which is also four leagues long; this is full - of wild rice, and has a great many fowl in their season. - From Lac de Boeuff to the forks [confluence of the Necha - river with Fox river], which is five leagues from the - portage of the Ouiscousing, and 10 leagues above the forks - [??], is a very small lake, called Lac Vaseux [Muddy lake], - so choked with wild rice as to render it almost impassable. - The [Fox] river, although very winding, becomes more and - more serpentine on approaching the portage, and narrows so - much as almost to prevent the use of oars. The length of - the portage to the Ouiscousing [river, at present town of - Portage, Columbia Co.] is two miles; but when the waters - are high, canoes and boats pass over loaded. Here the - waters at that time separate, one part going to the Gulf of - Mexico, and the other to that of St. Lawrence. In wet - seasons the portage road is very bad, the soil being of a - swampy nature. There is for nearly halfway a kind of - natural canal, which is sometimes used, and I think a canal - between the two rivers might be easily cut [Wis. Cent., and - C., M., and St. P. R. R. to Portage now]. The expense at - present attending the transport is one-third of a dollar - per cwt.; for a canoe $5 and a boat $8; this is not cash, - but in goods at the rate of 200 per cent. on the sterling. - There are at present two white men who have establishments - there; they are much incommoded by the Puants of Rock - river, who are troublesome visitors. The Ouiscousing is a - large river; its bottom sandy, full of islands and - sand-bars during the summer season. The navigation is - difficult even for canoes, owing to the lowness of the - water. From the portage to its confluence with the - Mississippi is 60 leagues [about 40 leagues--112 miles]. - The Saques and Reynards formerly lived on its banks, but - were driven off by the Sauteaux. They were accustomed to - raise a great deal of corn and beans, the soil being - excellent. Opposite the Detour de Pin, halfway from the - portage, on the south side, are lead mines, said to be the - best in any part of the country, and to be wrought with - great ease. Boats of more than four tons are improper for - the communication between the Mississippi and - Michilimackinac." (_[Colonel Robert] Dickson._) - -The present village of Prairie des Chiens was first settled in the -year 1783, and the first settlers were Mr. Giard, Mr. Antaya, and Mr. -Dubuque. The old village is about a mile below the present one, and -existed during the time the French were possessed of the country. It -derives its name from a family of Reynards who formerly lived there, -distinguished by the appellation of Dogs. The present village was -settled under the English government, and the ground was purchased -from the Reynard Indians. It is situated about one league above the -mouth of the Ouiscousing river. On the E. bank of the river there is a -small pond or marsh which runs parallel to the river in the rear of -the town, which, in front of the marsh, consists of 18 dwelling-houses, -in two streets; 16 in Front Street and two in First Street. In the -rear of the pond are eight dwelling-houses; part of the houses are -framed, and in place of weatherboarding there are small logs let into -mortises made in the uprights, joined close, daubed on the outside -with clay, and handsomely whitewashed within. The inside furniture of -their houses is decent and, indeed, in those of the most wealthy -displays a degree of elegance and taste. - -There are eight houses scattered round the country, at the distance of -one, two, three, and five miles: also, on the W. side of the -Mississippi [now Bloody Run, on which is N. McGregor, Clayton Co., -Ia.] three houses, situated on a small stream called Giards [or -Giard's] river, making, in the village and vicinity, 37 houses, which -it will not be too much to calculate at 10 persons each. The -population would thus be 370 souls; but this calculation will not -answer for the spring or autumn, as there are then, at least, 500 or -600 white persons. This is owing to the concourse of traders and their -engagees from Michilimackinac and other parts, who make this their -last stage previous to launching into the savage wilderness. They -again meet here in the spring, on their return from their -wintering-grounds, accompanied by 300 or 400 Indians, when they hold a -fair; the one disposes of remnants of goods, and the others reserved -peltries. It is astonishing that there are not more murders and -affrays at this place, where meets such an heterogeneous mass to -trade, the use of spirituous liquors being in no manner restricted; -but since the American has become known, such accidents are much less -frequent than formerly. The prairie on which the village is situated -is bounded in the rear by high bald hills. It is from one mile to -three-quarters of a mile from the river, and extends about eight miles -from the Mississippi, to where it strikes the Ouiscousing at the Petit -Grey, which bears from the village S. E. by E. - -If the marsh before spoken of were drained, which might be easily -done, I am of the opinion it would render healthy the situation of the -prairie, which now subjects its inhabitants to intermitting fevers in -the spring and autumn. - -There are a few gentlemen residing at the Prairie des Chiens, and many -others claiming that appellation; but the rivalship of the Indian -trade occasions them to be guilty of acts at their wintering-grounds -which they would blush to be thought guilty of in the civilized world. -They possess the spirit of generosity and hospitality in an eminent -degree, but this is the leading feature in the character of frontier -inhabitants. Their mode of living has obliged them to have transient -connection with the Indian women; and what was at first policy is now -so confirmed by habit and inclination that it is become the ruling -practice of the traders, with few exceptions; in fact, almost one-half -the inhabitants under 20 years have the blood of the aborigines in -their veins. - -From this village to Lake Pepin we have, on the W. shore [Iowa and -Minnesota], first Yellow river [present name; at its mouth Council -Hill, Allamakee Co., Ia.], of about 20 yards wide, bearing from the -Mississippi nearly due W.; second, the [Upper] Iowa river, about 100 -yards wide, bearing from the Mississippi about N. W.; third, the -Racine [Root] river, about 20 yards wide, bearing from the Mississippi -nearly W., and navigable for canoes 60 miles; fourth, the rivers -Embarra [Embarras, or Zumbro] and Lean Claire [l'Eau Claire, now White -Water or Minneiska], which join their waters just as they form a -confluence with the Mississippi, are about 60 yards wide, and bear -nearly S. W. - -On the E. shore [Wisconsin], in the same distance, is the river de la -Prairie la Cross [La Crosse river], which empties into the Mississippi -at the head of the prairie of that name. It is about 20 yards wide, -and bears N. N. W. We then meet with the Black [present name] river, a -very considerable stream about 200 yards wide at its mouth, on which -the traders frequently winter with the Puants and Fols Avoins. Next we -pass the river of the Montaigne qui Trompes dans l'Eau [Riviere de la -Montagne qui Trempe a l'Eau, now Trempealeau river], a small stream in -the rear of the hill of that name. Then we find the Riviere au Boeuff -[Buffalo river], about 30 yards wide, bearing N. by W. At the entrance -of Lake Pepin, on the E. shore, joins the Sauteaux [Chippewa] river, -which is at least half a mile wide, and appears to be a deep and -majestic stream. It bears from the Mississippi nearly due N. This -river is in size and course, for some distance up, scarcely to be -distinguished from the Ouiscousing; it has a communication with -Montreal river by a short portage, and by this river with Lake -Superior.[VII-11] The agents of the N. W. Company supply the Fols Avoin -Sauteaux who reside at the head of this river; and those of -Michilimackinac, the Sioux who hunt on its lower waters. - -In this division of the Mississippi the shores are more than -three-fourths prairie on both sides, or, more properly speaking, bald -hills which, instead of running parallel with the river, form a -continual succession of high perpendicular cliffs and low valleys; -they appear to head on the river, and to traverse the country in an -angular direction. Those hills and valleys give rise to some of the -most sublime and romantic views I ever saw. But this irregular scenery -is sometimes interrupted by a wide extended plain which brings to mind -the verdant lawn of civilized life, and would almost induce the -traveler to imagine himself in the center of a highly cultivated -plantation. The timber of this division is generally birch, elm, and -Cottonwood; all the cliffs being bordered by cedar. - -The navigation unto [Upper] Iowa river is good, but thence to the -Sauteaux river is very much obstructed by islands; in some places the -Mississippi is uncommonly wide, and divided into many small channels -which from the cliffs appear like so many distinct rivers, winding in -a parallel course through the same immense valley. But there are few -sand-bars in those narrow channels; the soil being rich, the water -cuts through it with facility. - -La Montaigne qui Trompe dans l'Eau stands in the Mississippi near the -E. shore, about 50 miles below the Sauteaux river, and is about two -miles in circumference, with an elevation of 200 feet, covered with -timber. There is a small [Trempealeau: see note 56, pp. 52-54] -river which empties into the Mississippi in the rear of the mountain, -which I conceive once bounded the mountain on the lower side, and the -Mississippi on the upper, when the mountain was joined to the main by -a neck of low prairie ground, which in time was worn away by the -spring freshets of the Mississippi, and thus formed an island of this -celebrated mountain. - -Lake Pepin, so called by the French, appears to be only an expansion -of the Mississippi. It commences at the entrance of the Sauteaux, and -bears N. 55 deg. W. 12 miles to Point de Sable, which is a neck of land -making out about one mile into the lake from the W. shore, and is the -narrowest part of the lake. From here to the upper end the course is -nearly due W. about 10 miles, making its whole length 22 miles, and -from 4 to 11/2 miles in width; the broadest part being in the bay below -Point de Sable. This is a beautiful place; the contrast of the -Mississippi full of islands, and the lake with not one in its whole -extent, gives more force to the grandeur of the scene. The French, -under the government of M. Frontenac, drove the Reynards or -Ottaquamies [Outagamas, etc.] from the Ouiscousing, pursued them up -the Mississippi, and, as a barrier, built a stockade [Fort -Beauharnois?] on Lake Pepin on the W. shore, just below Point de -Sable. As was generally the case with that nation, they blended the -military and mercantile professions, by making their fort a factory -for the Sioux. The lake, at the upper end, is three fathoms deep; but -this, I am informed, is its shoalest part. From [Upper] Iowa river to -the head of Lake Pepin, elk are the prevailing species of wild game, -with some deer, and a few bear. - -From the head of Lake Pepin for about 12 miles, to Cannon river, the -Mississippi is branched out into many channels, and its bosom covered -with numerous islands. There is a hill on the W. shore [at Red Wing], -about six miles above the lake, called the Grange [la Grange, the -Barn], from the summit of which you have one of the most delightful -prospects in nature. When turning your face to the E. you have the -river winding in three [South, Middle, and North] channels at your -feet; on your right the extensive bosom of the lake, bounded by its -chain of hills; in front, over the Mississippi, a wide extended -prairie; on the left the valley of the Mississippi, open to view quite -to the St. Croix; and partly in your rear, the valley through which -passes Riviere au Canon. When I viewed it, on one of the islands below -appeared the spotted lodges of Red Wing's band of Sioux. The white -tents of the traders and my soldiers, and three flags of the United -States waving on the water, gave a contrast to the still and lifeless -wilderness around and increased the pleasure of the prospect. - -From Cannon river to the St. Croix, the Mississippi evidently becomes -narrower, and the navigation less obstructed by islands. St. Croix -river joins the Mississippi on the E., and bears from the latter -almost due N. It is only 80 yards wide at its mouth, but 500 yards up -commences [Lower] Lake St. Croix, which is from 11/2 to 3 miles wide, -and 36 long. This river communicates with Lake Superior by the Burnt -river, by a portage of half a mile only, and in its whole extent has -not one fall or rapid worthy of notice.[VII-12] This, with the mildness -of its current, and its other advantages, render it by far the most -preferable communication which can be had with the N. W. from this -part of our territories. Its upper waters are inhabited by the Fols -Avoins and Sauteaux, who are supplied by the agents of the North West -Company; and its lower division, by the Sioux and their traders. - -The Mississippi from Cannon river is bounded on the E. by high ridges, -but the left is low ground. The timber is generally ash and maple, -except the cedar of the cliffs. From the St. Croix to the St. Peters -the Mississippi is collected into a narrow compass; I crossed it at -one place with 40 strokes of my oars,[VII-13] and the navigation is very -good. The E. bank is generally bounded by the river ridges, but the W. -sometimes by timbered bottom or prairie. The timber is generally -maple, sugar-tree, and ash. About 20 miles below the entrance of the -St. Peters, on the E. shore, at a place called the Grand Morais -[Marais, Big Marsh, now Pig's Eye marsh or lake], is situated Petit -Corbeau's village of 11 log houses. For a description of the St. -Peters see the chart herewith. - -From the St. Peters to the Falls of St. Anthony the river is -contracted between high hills, and is one continual rapid or fall, the -bottom being covered with rocks which in low water are some feet -above the surface, leaving narrow channels between them. The rapidity -of the current is likewise much augmented by the numerous small, rocky -islands which obstruct the navigation. The shores have many large and -beautiful springs issuing forth, which form small cascades as they -tumble over the cliffs into the Mississippi. The timber is generally -maple. This place we noted for the great quantity of wild fowl. - -As I ascended the Mississippi, the Falls of St. Anthony did not strike -me with that majestic appearance which I had been taught to expect -from the descriptions of former travelers. On an actual survey I find -the portage to be 260 poles; but when the river is not very low, boats -ascending may be put in 31 poles below, at a large cedar tree; this -would reduce it to 229 poles. The hill over which the portage is made -is 69 feet in ascent, with an elevation at the point of debarkation of -45 deg. The fall of the water between the place of debarkation and -reloading is 58 feet; the perpendicular fall of the shoot is 161/2 feet. -The width of the river above the shoot is 627 yards; below, 209. For -the form of the shoot, see a rough draught herewith.[VII-14] In high -water the appearance is much more sublime, as the great quantity of -water then forms a spray, which in clear weather reflects from some -positions the colors of the rainbow, and when the sky is overcast -covers the falls in gloom and chaotic majesty. - -From the Falls of St. Anthony to Rum river, the Mississippi is almost -one continual chain of rapids, with the eddies formed by winding -channels. Both sides are prairie, with scarcely any timber but small -groves of scrub oak. Rum river is about 50 yards wide at its mouth, -and takes its source in Le Mille Lac,[VII-15] which is but 35 miles S. of -Lower Red Cedar Lake. The small Indian canoes ascend this river quite -to the lake, which is considered as one of the best fur -hunting-grounds for some hundreds of miles, and has been long a scene -of rencounters between the hunting-parties of the Sioux and Sauteaux. -Last winter a number of Fols Avoins and Sioux, and some Sauteaux -wintered in that quarter. From Rum river to Leaf river, called [not] -by Father Hennipin and [but by] Carver the river St. Francis,[VII-16] and -which was the extent of their travels, the prairies continue with few -interruptions. The timber is scrub-oak, with now and then a lonely -pine. Previous to your arrival at Leaf river, you pass Crow [Carver's -Goose] river on the W., about 30 yards wide, which bears from the -Mississippi S. W. Leaf river is only a small stream of not more than -15 yards over, and bears N. by W. - -The elk begin to be very plenty; there are also some buffalo, -quantities of deer, raccoons, and on the prairie a few of the animals -called by the French brelaws [blaireaux, badgers]. - -Thence to Sac [or Sauk] river, a little above the Grand Rapids [Sauk -Rapids, St. Cloud, etc.], both sides of the river are generally -prairie, with skirts of scrub-oak. The navigation is still obstructed -with ripples, but with some intermissions of a few miles. - -At the Grand Rapids the river expands to about 3/4 of a mile in width, -its general width not being more than {~VULGAR FRACTION THREE FIFTHS~} of a mile, and tumbles over -an unequal bed of rocks for about two miles, through which there -cannot be said to be any channel; for, notwithstanding the rapidity of -the current, one of my invalids who was on the W. shore waded to the -E., where we were encamped. The E. bank of these rapids is a very high -prairie; the W. scrubby wood-land. The Sac river is a considerable -stream, which comes in on the W. and bears about S. W., and is 200 -yards wide at its mouth. - -The quantity of game increases from Sac river to Pine creek [now Swan -river], the place where I built my stockade and left part of my party; -the borders are prairie, with groves of pine on the edge of the bank; -but there are some exceptions, where you meet with small bottoms of -oak, ash, maple, and lynn [linden, basswood or whitewood, _Tilia -americana_--bois blanc of the voyageurs]. - -In this distance there is an intermission of rapids for about 40 -miles, when they commence again, and are fully as difficult as ever. -There are three small creeks[VII-17] emptying on the W. scarcely worthy -of notice, and on the E. are two small rivers called Lake and Clear -Rivers; the former, quite a small one [now called Little Rock], bears -N. W., and is about 15 yards wide at its mouth; about three miles from -its entrance is a beautiful small [Little Rock] lake, around which -resort immense herds of elk and buffalo. Clear river [now called -Platte river] is a beautiful little stream of about 80 yards in width, -which heads in some swamps and small lakes [Platte, Ogechie, etc.] on -which the Sauteaux of Lower Red Cedar Lake and Sandy Lake frequently -come to hunt. The soil of the prairies from above the falls is sandy, -but would raise small grain in abundance; the bottoms are rich, and -fit for corn or hemp. - -Pine creek [now Swan river] is a small stream which comes in on the W. -shore, and bears nearly W. It is bordered by large groves of white and -red pine. - -From Pine creek to the Isle De Corbeau, or river of that name [now -called Crow Wing], two small rivers come in on the W. shore. The first -[now Pike creek] is of little consequence; but the second, called Elk -[or as now Little Elk] river, is entitled to more consideration, from -its communication with the river St. Peters. They first ascend it to a -small lake, cross this, then ascend a small stream [Long Prairie -river, a branch of Crow Wing river] to a large [Osakis] lake; from -which they make a portage of four miles W. and fall into the Sauteaux -[or Chippewa[VII-18]] river, which they descend into the river St. -Peters. On the E. side is one small stream [Nokasippi river], which -heads toward Lower Red Cedar Lake, and is bounded by hills. - -The whole of this distance is remarkably difficult to navigate, being -one continued succession of rapid shoals and falls; but there is one -[fall which] deserves to be more particularly noticed, viz.: The place -called by the French Le Shute de la Roche Peinture [La Chute de la -Roche Peinte, Rapids of the Painted Rock, now Little falls], which is -certainly the third obstacle in point of navigation which I met with -in my whole route. The shore, where there is not prairie, is a -continued succession of pine ridges. The entrance of the river De -Corbeau is partly hid by the island of that name, and discharges its -waters into the Mississippi above and below it; the lowest channel -bearing from the Mississippi N. 65 deg. W., the upper due W. This, in my -opinion, should be termed the Forks of the Mississippi, it being -nearly of equal magnitude, and heading not far from the same source, -although taking a much more direct course to their junction. It may be -observed on the chart that, from St. Louis to this place, the course -of the river has generally been N. to W. and that from here it bears -N. E. - -This river affords the best and most approved communication with the -Red river; and the navigation is as follows: You ascend the river De -Corbeau 180 miles, to the entrance of the river Des Feuilles [now Leaf -river], which comes from the N. W. This you ascend 180 miles also; -then make a portage of half a mile into Otter Tail Lake,[VII-19] which -is a principal source of Red river. The other [Long Prairie] branch of -the river De Corbeau bears S. W. and approximates with the St. Peters. -The whole of this river is rapid, and by no means affording so much -water as the Mississippi. Their confluence is in latitude 45 deg. 49' 50" -N. In this division the elk, deer, and buffalo were probably in -greater quantities than in any other part of my whole voyage. - -Thence to Pine river [present name: not to be confounded with Pike's -Pine creek, now Swan river] the Mississippi continues to become -narrower, and has but few islands. In this distance I discovered but -one rapid, which the force of the frost had not entirely covered with -ice. The shores in general presented a dreary prospect of high barren -nobs, covered with dead and fallen pine timber. To this there were -some exceptions of ridges of yellow and pitch-pine; also some small -bottoms of lynn, elm, oak, and ash. The adjacent country is at least -two-thirds covered with small lakes, some of which are three miles in -circumference. This renders communication impossible in summer, except -with small bark canoes. - -In this distance we first met with a species of pine [fir] called the -sap pine [French sapin, balsam-fir, _Abies balsamea_]. It was equally -unknown to myself and all my party. It scarcely ever exceeds the -height of 35 feet, and is very full of projecting branches. The leaves -are similar to other pines, but project out from the branches on each -side in a direct line, thereby rendering the branch flat. This -formation occasions the natives and voyagers to give it the preference -on all occasions to the branches of all other trees for their beds, -and to cover their temporary camps; but its greatest virtue arises -from its medicinal qualities. The rind is smooth, with the exception -of little protuberances of about the size of a hazel-nut; the top of -which being cut, you squeeze out a glutinous substance of the -consistence of honey. This gum or sap gives name to the tree, and is -used by the natives and traders of that country as a balsam for all -wounds made by sharp instruments, or for parts frozen, and almost all -other external injuries which they receive. My poor fellows -experienced its beneficial qualities by the application made of it to -their frozen extremities in various instances. - -Pine river bears from the Mississippi N. 30 deg. E., although it empties -on that which has been hitherto termed the W. shore. It is 80 yards -wide at its mouth, and has an island immediately at the entrance. It -communicates with Lake Le Sang Sue [Leech lake] by the following -course of navigation: In one day's sail from the confluence, you -arrive at the first part of White Fish Lake [present name], which is -about six miles long and two wide. Thence you pursue the river about -two miles, and come to the second White Fish Lake, which is about -three miles long and one wide; then you have the river three miles to -the third lake, which is seven miles long and two in width. This I -crossed on my return from the head of the Mississippi on the [20th] of -February; it is in 46 deg. 32' 32" N. lat. Thence you follow the river a -quarter of a mile to the fourth lake, which is a circular one of about -five miles in circumference. Thence you pursue the river one day's -sail to a small lake; thence two days' sail to a portage, which -conveys you to another lake; whence, by small portages from lake to -lake, you make the voyage to Leech Lake. The whole of this course lies -through ridges of pines or swamps of pinenet [epinette[VII-20]], sap -pine, hemlock, etc. From the river De Corbeau to this place the deer -are very plenty, but we found no buffalo or elk. - -From this spot to [Lower] Red Cedar Lake, the pine ridges are -interrupted by large bottoms of elm, ash, oak, and maple, the soil of -which would be very proper for cultivation. From the appearance of the -ice, which was firm and equal, I conceive there can be but one ripple -in this distance. [Lower] Red Cedar lake lies on the E. side of the -Mississippi, at the distance of six miles from it, and is near equally -distant from the river De Corbeau and Lake De Sable [Sandy lake]. Its -form is an oblong square, and may be 10 miles in circumference. From -this to Lake De Sable, on the E. shore, you meet with Muddy [now Rice] -river, which discharges itself into the Mississippi by a mouth 20 -yards wide, and bears nearly N. E. We then meet with Pike [now Willow: -see note 49, p. 127] river, on the W., about 77 [air-line about 15] -miles below Sandy lake, bearing nearly due N.; up which you ascend -with canoes four days' sail, and arrive at a Wild Rice lake, which you -pass through and enter a small stream, and ascend it two leagues; then -cross a portage of two acres into a [Big Rice] lake seven leagues in -circumference; then two leagues of a [Kwiwisens or Little Boy] river -into another small lake. Thence you descend the current N. E. into -Leech lake. The banks of the Mississippi are still bordered by pines -of different species, except a few small bottoms of elm, lynn, and -maple. The game is scarce, and the aborigines subsist almost entirely -on the beaver, with a few moose, and wild rice or oats. - -Sandy Lake River, the discharge of said lake, is large, but only six -[about two] miles in length from the lake to its confluence with the -Mississippi. Lake De Sable is about 25 miles in circumference, and has -a number of small rivers running into it. One of those is entitled to -particular attention: the Savanna, which by a portage of 33/4 miles -communicates with the river [Fond Du Lac or] St. Louis, which empties -into Lake Superior at Fond Du Lac, and is the channel by which the N. -W. Company bring all their goods for the trade of the Upper -Mississippi. Game is very scarce in this country. - -In ascending the Mississippi from Sandy Lake, you first meet with the -Swan river [still so called: not to be confounded with the other of -the same present name] on the east, which bears nearly due E., and is -navigable for bark canoes for 90 miles to Swan Lake. You then meet -with the Meadow [or Prairie] River, which falls in on the E., bears -nearly E. by N., and is navigable for Indian canoes 100 miles. You -then in ascending meet with a very strong ripple [Grand rapids], and -an expansion of the river where it forms a small lake. This is three -miles below the Falls of Packegamau [Pokegama], and from which the -noise of that shoot might be heard. The course of the river is N. 70 deg. -W.; just below, the river is a quarter of a mile in width, but above -the shoot not more than 20 yards. The water thus collected runs down a -flat rock, which has an elevation of about 30 degrees. Immediately -above the fall is a small island of about 50 yards in circumference, -covered with sap pine. The portage, which is on the E. (or N.) side, -is no more than 200 yards, and by no means difficult. Those falls, in -point of consideration as an impediment to the navigation, stand next -to the Falls of St. Anthony, from the source of the river to the Gulf -of Mexico. The banks of the river to Meadow river have generally -either been timbered by pine, pinenett [epinette], hemlock, sap pine -[sapin or balsam-fir], or aspen tree. Thence it winds through high -grass meadows or savannas, with pine swamps appearing at a distance to -cast a deeper gloom on the borders. From the falls in ascending, you -pass Lake Packegamau on the W., celebrated for its great production of -wild rice; and next meet with Deer river [present name] on the E., -the extent of its navigation unknown. You next meet with the Riviere -Le Crosse[VII-21] [Riviere a la Crosse] on the E. side, which bears -nearly N., and has only a portage of one mile to pass from it into the -Lake Winipeque Branch of the Mississippi [through Little Lake -Winnibigoshish]. - -We next come to what the people of that quarter call the forks of the -Mississippi, the right fork of which bears N. W., and runs eight -leagues to Lake Winipeque [Winnibigoshish[VII-22]], which is of an oval -form, and about 36 miles in circumference. From Lake Winipeque the -river continues five leagues to Upper Red Cedar [now Cass] Lake, which -may be termed the Upper Source of the Mississippi. The [other fork or] -Leech Lake Branch bears from the forks S. W., and runs through a chain -of meadows. You pass Muddy [or Mud] lake, which is scarcely anything -more than an extensive marsh of 15 miles in circumference; the river -bears through it nearly N., after which it again turns W. In many -places this branch is not more than 10 or 15 yards in width, although -15 or 20 feet deep. From this to Leech Lake the communication -[through Leech Lake river] is direct and without any impediment. This -is rather considered as the main source, although the Winipeque Branch -is navigable the greatest distance. - -To this place the whole face of the country has an appearance of an -impenetrable morass or boundless savanna. But on the borders of the -lake is some oak, with large groves of sugar-maple, from which the -traders make sufficient sugar for their consumption the whole year. -Leech Lake communicates with the river De Corbeau by seven portages, -and with the river Des Feuilles; also, with the Red river, by the Otter -Tail Lake on the one side, and by [Upper] Red Cedar Lake and other -small lakes to Red Lake on the other. Out of these small lakes and -ridges rise the upper waters of the St. Lawrence, Mississippi,[VII-23] -and Red river, the latter of which discharges itself into the ocean -by Lake Winipie, Nelson's River, and Hudson's Bay. All those waters -have their upper sources within 100 miles of each other, which I -think plainly proves this to be the most elevated part of the N. E. -continent of America. But we must cross what is commonly termed the -Rocky Mountains, or a Spur of the Cordeliers [Cordilleras], previous -to our finding the waters whose currents run westward and pay tribute -to the western ocean. - -In this quarter we find moose, a very few deer and bear, but a -vast variety of fur animals of all descriptions. - -FOOTNOTES: - -[VII-1] This article, for which I make a new chapter with a major head, -was in the orig. ed. _a part_ of Doc. No. 18 of the Appendix to Pt. 1, -running from p. 41 to p. 56; the remainder of the document--continuing -without break to p. 66, and including also a folding table--being an -account of the Indians. I make a separate chapter for this -ethnographic matter, beyond. I retain as a minor heading of the -present chapter Pike's original title of No. 18, nearly in his words; -but must cut it down to exclude "the savages," and in so doing I also -reduce its verbiage a little. As thus restricted, this article is a -rapid review or cursory description of the Mississippi, in so far as -Pike ascended and descended this river. Having already given a copious -commentary in my notes on his itinerary, I must refer the reader back -to these for most details; here I simply bracket a few names in the -text for the purpose of ready recognition, and restrict my notes to -new matters which come up. - -[VII-2] The form of the word _Mississippi_ was not fixed with eleven -letters till after 1800. President Jefferson, a scholar of his times -and especially interested in linguistics, used nine or ten letters. -Our fashion of doubling all the consonants except the first is -distinctly an innovation which has no advantage over _Misisipi_, but -on the contrary the undesirable effect of obscuring the pronunciation -of the Algonquian elements by neutralizing the vowels. Analysis of the -eleven letters shows three consonantal sounds, one of them repeated, -and each of these four followed by a short if not neutral vowel: -_Mi-si-si-pi_. The initial _m_ is a nasolabial, not likely to vary, -and in fact constant. This is followed by a sibilant surd, repeated, -with probable and actual variation to _s_ of _c_ or _ch_ in one or -both places. The final consonant _p_ is a labial surd, easily and -actually variant to its sonant _b_. The name is really a term of two -words: Misi Sipi=Misi River--whatever Misi may mean. Waiving this, and -taking the name as one word, the _actual_ variations which I have -noted from time to time may be thus displayed as regards the eleven -letters: (1) _M_, constant; (2) _i_, variant to _a_ and _e_; (3) first -_s_, var. to _c_, or missing; (4) second _s_, var. to _c_ and _ch_, or -missing; (5) second _i_, nearly constant, when present; (6) third _s_, -var. to _c_, not to _ch_, when present; (7) fourth _s_, same as third -_s_; (8) third _i_, var. to _e_ and _y_; (9) first _p_, var. to _b_; -(10) second _p_, constant, if not dropped after the third _p_, never -present if the third _p_ becomes _b_; (11) final _i_, var. to _e_ and -_y_. The permutations possible under the several variants indicated -may be ciphered out by those who have leisure for amusement; probably -not one-tenth of the possibilities are actualities in print; and of -those actually existent probably no complete list has ever been made. -We might expect to find 30 forms without much trouble. Some of the -examples I have noted are: _Mischipi_, Freytas, from Spanish Relations -of 1661, pub. 1663, perhaps the first appearance of the word in print; -_Messipi_, Allouez, in French Relations of 1667, said to be the -original form in that language; _Mississipy_, 1671; _Messisipi_, -Joliet, after 1673; _Micissypy_, Perrot; _Masciccipi_, La Salle, qu. -misprint in first syllable? _Meschasipi_ and other forms in Hennepin, -1683, and his editors; _Messchsipi_ on an old map, about 1688; _Michi -Sepe_, Labal, as cited by Brower; _Mechesebe_, etc. The general -evolution of the present word has been: early elimination of _c_ or -_ch_; tendency of all the vowels to _i_, with _e_ in the first place -and _y_ in the last place longest persistent; and then the doubling of -the _s_'s and the _p_, all the possible cases of this process being -not only extant, but neither very old nor very rare. The unconscious -_motif_ here seems to have been to give the longest river the longest -name. There are many other names of the "Mycycypy" river, aboriginal, -Spanish, and French, for the whole or certain parts of its course. -Spanish relations from De Soto yield for lower parts of the river -_Chucagua_ in variant forms; _Tamalisieu_; _Tapatui_; and _Mico_. -Also, for about the mouth, we have _Malabanchia_ or _Malabouchia_, -from French narration, D'Iberville, Mar. 2d, 1699. An Iroquois name, -_Gastacha_, is cited. Spanish relations yield several of the earliest -names, all of which have been translated; _e. g._, _El Rio_, The -River, Knight of Elvas, pub. 1557; _Rio Grande_, Grand r., Great r., -ref. to Hernando de Soto, near Quizquiz, Sunday, May 8th, 1541, and at -Guachoya, Apr. 17th, 1542; _Rio del Espiritu Santo_, as De Biedma, -River of the Holy Ghost, with variant spellings of the phrase, _cf._ -Chavez map, in Ortelius, Antwerp, 1580, and Cortes map for Spanish -Charles V., 1520; _Rio de las Palmas_, River of Palms, Admiral map, -1507, pub. in ed. Ptolemy, 1513 (I cite these two without prejudice to -the question whether they did actually apply or were only supposed to -apply to the Mississippi); _Rio de los Palisados_ (as I find it cited, -though it seems to me _R. de las Palizadas_ would be better Spanish -for Palisade r., the connotation of this term being what a steamboat -man would mean if he said Snag or Sawyer r.); and _Rio Escondido_, -Hidden r., because it was hard to find the right channel through the -delta. Certain genuflexions of French knees to powers that were and -happily be no longer, are reflected in the names _Riviere de la -Conception_, _sc._ of the B. V. M., which Marquette conceived in one -of the unisexual transports of his morbid imagination, June 15th or -17th, 1673, trans. Immaculate Conception r.; _R. de Buade_, _sc._ -Frontenac r., as Joliet, who had an eye to a visible patron; _R. de -Colbert_, as Hennepin, who kept one eye on St. Anthony and the other -on King Louis; _R. de Louis_, _R. de St. Louis_, _R. de Louisiane_ of -various F. relations (_St. Louis_ occurring in letters patent of Louis -XIV. to Crozat, Sept. 14th, 1712); from descriptive phrases which are -found in Radisson's relations, Forked r. and River That Divides Itself -in Two have been evolved as names with the aid of capitals; the upper -section of the stream, flowing from Lake Itasca, has been called _R. a -la Biche_, Elk r., from the former F. name Lac a la Biche, translating -Ojibwa Omoshkos Sogiagon; the next section, _Bemidji-sibi_, with many -variants of this, in Ojibwa, French, Italian, and English; the next -section, _R. aux Cedres Rouges_, Red Cedar r., Cassina r., Cass r.; -next section, _Winnibigoshish r._, in many variants; and below the -confluence of the Leech Lake fork, _Kitchi-sibi_, Great r. There are -also several forms of the Sioux name, to the same effect as -Kitchi-sibi. I am ignorant of any English name originally given as a -genuine appellation, and not a translation or mere epithet, like -"Father of Waters," and the like. It is text-book tradition that this -phrase translates the Algonquian term; which tradition is too untrue -and too popular to ever die--let it rest in peace, along with -Washington's hatchet and Tell's apple. It is Featherstonhaugh, I think -(I have mislaid the mem. I once made), who remarks with great gravity -and great truth, that "Father of Waters" is a misnomer, because the -river resulting from the confluence of other rivers is the Son of -Waters and not the father of them at all. This is a sober sort of -statement, for a witticism; it is not a figurative locution or a -flight of fancy; it is a solemn fact. It only stops short of the most -comprehensive statement that can be made regarding the origin of -rivers, which is, that all rivers arise in cloudland. - -[VII-3] See note 12, p. 7, and add: I suspect that _Noir_ is not the -F. adj. which means "black," but a perversion of the noun _Noix_, -_Noyau_, or _Noyer_, meaning "nut" or "walnut." Beck's Gazetteer, -1823, gives the name as Noyer cr. - -[VII-4] An opinion of Mr. Ewing occupies note 18, p. 15. A hitherto -unpublished letter of General William Clark, Indian Agent for -Louisiana, to the Secretary at War, is in part as follows: - - "Saint Louis 22nd. June 1807. - -"Sir - -"... William Ewing's Account for provisions, hired men and Squars -[squaws] appears to be unatherized by any person in this Country. M^r. -G. Chouteau informs me that he never empowered him under any authority -which he possessed to incur such expences to the U : States as [are] -charged in his account.--And further says that he has always given -such provisions and other articles to M^r. Ewing as he thought the -Public Service required, for which he either paid himself or included -in the account of Rations settled with the Contractor.--The public -clammer [clamor] at this place is very much against M^r. Ewing; many -unfavourable relation has been made of his conduct, such as -purchaseing the Indians Guns for whisky and selling them again to the -Indians for a high price.--Selling his corn to the Traders for -trinkets for his Squar, hireing men on the behalf of the United States -and sending them to work for his private benefit, makeing an incorrect -report to me, &^c. &^c. I am induced to believe from the report of -M^r. Bolvar [Nicholas Boilvin] and others who are willing to sweare -that M^r. W^m. Ewing has behaved incorrectly and his example is -degrading to the institution, and calculate to give the Indians an -unfavourable impression of the public Agents in this Country. The -Conduct of public Agents in this distant quarter, I fear will never be -under sufficent check until there is a person to whome all are obliged -to account resideing in this Country, with full power and descretion -to inspect their actions &^c. &^c. - -"A copy of Mr. Ewings report is inclosed in which he states the -situation of his establishment and his prospects &^c.... - - "Your most Obedent - "Humble Servent, - [Signed] "W^M. CLARK. I. A. L." - -[VII-5] Being letter to General Wilkinson, from that place at that date, -which formed Doc. No. 2, p. 2, of the App. to Pt. 1 of the orig. ed. -See Art. 2, p. 223. The lead mines are of course identifiable with the -location of Dubuque; but the precise situation of Julien Dubuque's -house, where Pike stopped both ways, was Catfish cr., about 2 m. -below. Mr. Dubuque died Mar. 24th, 1810, aged 451/2 years, and was -buried on the eminence close by, which became known as Dubuque's -bluff, and still bears this name. The peculiar character of his claim -to the property occasioned much litigation, which was carried up to -the Supreme Court of the U. S., and there decided in favor of the -settlers, in or about 1853. - -[VII-6] This description makes in the orig. ed. a 3-page footnote, which -I reset in the main text, as no confusion will come from this obvious -digression, the reader returning to Prairie du Chien in due course. It -was furnished to Pike by (Robert) Dickson, whose name appears at the -end. In spite of the mangling of the geographical names, and one or -two sentences that seem to have got awry, it is a very telling piece -of work--perhaps the most concise and correct statement extant in 1810 -of what is one of the most memorable routes in the annals of American -exploration. It was by this famous Fox-Wisconsin traverse from the -Great Lakes to the Miss. r. that the latter was itself discovered to -Europeans. For it is practically if not identically the route of -Joliet and Marquette, 1673. Under the Canadian governorship of Comte -Louis de Buade de Frontenac, who succeeded De Courcelle Apr. 9th, -1672, the Quebec trader Joliet, the priest Marquette, and five other -Frenchmen, who were at Michilimackinac in Dec., 1672, passed thence by -Green bay of Lake Michigan, Fox r., Lake Winnebago and Wis. r., to -Miss. r. at Prairie du Chien, reached June 15th or 17th, 1673, and -named Riviere Colbert after the French king's minister. Our esteemed -antetemporary Jonathan Carver paddled that way too, and so did others -too numerous to mention, among them the macronymous G. W. -Featherstonhaugh, F. R. S., etc., whose canoe voyage up the Minnay -Sotor, etc., made in 1835, furnished data for very readable and -realistic gossip, 2 vols. 8vo, Lond. 1847, I. p. 151 _seq._ The -clearest view of the Fox-Wisconsin traverse I have seen is on the map -accompanying Bvt. Maj. C. R. Suter's Rep., being Doc. E of Bvt. -Maj.-Gen. G. K. Warren's Prelim. Rep. Surv. Miss. River above Rock -Island rapids, this being Ex. Doc. No. 58, Ho. Reps., 39th Congress, -2d Sess., 8vo, Washington, Government Printing Office, 1867, pp. -1-116. Accurate engineering operations always reduce the mileages -guessed at by tired travelers or idle tourists, but Dickson's -estimates come remarkably near Suter's measurements, some of which -are: Lower Fox r., 371/2 m.; traverse on Lake Winnebago, 151/2 m.; Upper -Fox r., 104 m.; canal at portage, 2-1/3 m.; Wisconsin r., 112 m.; -total, Green Bay to Prairie du Chien, 271-1/3 m. - -I may here summarize as curtly as I can the main points of the -probable fact that the Upper Mississippi was reached by practically -this route, by Menard and Guerin, before its long-alleged and -generally accepted discovery by Joliet and Marquette, as above noted. -In 1659 Fond du Lac was approached by two traders, Groseilliers and -Radisson; the former was Medard Chouart, the latter Pierre d'Esprit. -Groseilliers, Grozayyay, Desgrozeliers, etc., was b. near Meaux in -France; traded on Lake Huron in 1646; in 1647, married Veuve Etienne -of Quebec, daughter of Abraham Martin; in Aug., 1653, married -Marguerite Hayet Radisson, sister of Radisson. Radisson was b. St. -Malo, France; came to Canada 1651, married Elizabeth Herault 1656; was -at Three Rivers in Canada in 1658, and arranged to go with -Groseilliers to Lake Superior. The two built the first trading-post on -Lake Superior, at Chaquamegon bay (old Chagouamikon, etc.). -Groseilliers was back at Montreal Aug. 21st, 1660; he returned to Lake -Superior and was at Keweenaw bay Oct. 15th, 1660. Some of the traders -of his party wintered here 1660-61; with them was the Jesuit Menard, -the first missionary on the lake. Menard and one Jean Guerin left the -lake June 13th, 1661, for the region of the Ottawa lakes in Wisconsin. -Perrot says that Menard and Guerin followed the Outaouas to the Lake -of the Illinoets (Lake Michigan), and to the River Louisiane (_i. e._, -the Mississippi), to a point above the River Noire (Black r.), where -they were deserted by their Huron Indians. One day in August, 1661, -they were ascending a rapid in their canoe, which Menard left to -lighten it; he lost his way, and perished; Guerin survived. Menard's -breviary and cassock, it is said, were later found among the Sioux. -Justin Winsor's Narr. and Crit. Hist. Amer. IV. p. 206, gives a sketch -map on which a place is marked as that where Menard was lost. This -seems to be toward the sources of Chippewa r. If Perrot's relation be -true, and not misunderstood, Menard and Guerin reached the Mississippi -via the Wisconsin from Green bay, ascended it to the Black or the -Chippewa, and left it that way in the summer of 1661, 12 years before -Joliet and Marquette came to the Mississippi. - -[VII-7] Dickson's use of the term "La Baye" requires qualification to -prevent misreading him. 1. The old Baye des Puans or Puants, Stinkers' -bay, so called from the malodorous fish-eating Winnebagos who lived -thereabouts, became from its verdure la Baie Verte, our Green bay, -_i. e._, the whole water of that great N. W. arm of Lake Michigan, into -the head of which Lower Fox r. empties. The last 7 m. of this river -makes a sort of estuary from the foot of the last rapids, or head of -natural river navigation, to the waters of Green bay; and this whole -estuarian course was La Baye or La Baie of various early writers. 2. -The earliest French footing on the estuary was the Jesuit mission at -the foot of the rapids called Rapides des Peres (Priests' rapids), -whence the modern name De Pere or Depere for the town now at or near -the spot, on the E. bank of the river. The earliest French fort there -was called Fort La Baye or La Baie; and this is the implication of the -term as the name of a spot or place on the estuary also called "La -Baye" or "La Baie." 3. When settlement was made under English -occupation it crept down the estuary on the E. side to near the bay, -and "La Baye," _i. e._, La Baie Verte, furnished the local habitation -as well as the name of our Green Bay (town), a mile or two above the -mouth of the estuary. 4. Under our regime, La Baie of the American Fur -Company period was at a place called Shantytown, say halfway between -the old French La Baye (present town of Depere) and the less old -English La Baie (present county town of Green Bay, Brown Co., Wis.). -5. There were other settlements along the estuary, on the same side -too. Thus, writing of 1835, Featherstonhaugh speaks of the new -American settlement of Navarino, "a short distance" from Shantytown; -he describes the latter as "a small bourgade," and locates Navarino -opp. Fort Howard, _i. e._, where Green Bay now is. 6. On the left -bank, nearly opp. present Green Bay, but rather nearer Green bay, was -the site of our Fort Howard, which flourished say 60 years ago, and -bequeathed the name to the town of Howard or Fort Howard, now opposite -Green Bay. On the left bank higher up, opp. Depere, is a town called -Nicollet, no doubt a belated bud of promise, as no such place appears -on maps of 25 years ago. 7. None of the foregoing localities or -establishments on Fox r. must be confounded with the recent outgrowth -called Bay Settlement, which is out on the S. E. shore of Green bay, -toward Point Sable. - -[VII-8] Kakalin and Konimee of the above text, also Cockien of p. 295, -are three forms of one word which has other curious shapes. -Featherstonhaugh I. p. 162, speaks of rapids "called in the Menominie -tongue Kawkawnin, literally 'can't get up,'" and says that the -voyageurs make it Cocolo. Suter's text has Kankarma; his map, Kankana. -Present usage favors Kaukauna; so G. L. O. maps, railroad folders, -etc. With the qualifying terms Petit and Grand, or Little and Great, etc., -the word denotes different places and things on the river; _i. e._, -certain lower and upper rapids themselves, together with certain -settlements at or near each of these obstructions to navigation. Petit -Kakalin, Petite chute, Little Konimee, Little shoot, Little rapids, -designated the lower rapids; and the town 6 m. above Depere received -the name of Little Rapids or Little Kaukauna. Some miles above this -place is now Wrightstown, on the right or E. bank of Fox r. Between -Little Kaukauna and Wrightstown are obstructions in the river which -are or were called Rapides Croches, from their crookedness. All the -foregoing are in present Brown Co. Passing to Outagamie Co., we find -what Dickson called the fall of Grand Konimee, and others knew as -Grand Kakalin, Grand chute, etc. This is now simply styled Kaukauna -falls, without any qualifying term; and the town there is Kaukauna -Falls. Above Kaukauna falls and town, say 2 or 3 m., are rapids called -Little chute (duplicating a different application of the name), and -within a mile of them are others known as Cedar rapids. In this -vicinity is also the town of Little Chute, 7 or 71/2 m. below Appleton, -seat of Outagamie Co. From Appleton we pass into Winnebago Co., and it -is only 6 or 8 m. to where Dickson says "the river opens into a small -lake," _i. e._, Lake Winnebago discharges into Lower Fox r. This -outlet is by two channels, N. and S., separated by Doty or Doty's -isl.; here are the Puant, or, as now known, Winnebago rapids; here was -the first Puant or Winnebago village; here are now the cities of -Menasha on the N. channel, and Neenah on the S. channel. The rapids -are strongest in the latter. - -[VII-9] Formerly Lac des Puans or des Puants, Stinkers' l., etc. This is -the large body of water in Winnebago, Calumet, and Fond Du Lac cos., -35 m. long, 9 to 14 m. wide, and 12 to 25 feet deep, thus being an -extensive overflow of Fox r., which enters at Oshkosh, Winnebago Co., -about the middle of the W. side of the lake, and leaves by Neenah and -Menasha, at the N. W. corner. The distance between these points, which -was the usual canoe traverse, is 151/2 m. There is a small island in -this distance, known by the name of Garlic, which Featherstonhaugh -calls Hotwater, from a droll incident he describes, I. p. 174. The -Puant village which Dickson mentions as being at the upper end of the -lake was at or near present Fond Du Lac, the county seat, and one of -well known places in Wisconsin. Dickson's midway "Fols Avoine" village -was the Menomonee settlement on the E. side of the lake, in Calumet -Co. (Stockbridge and Brotherton Res.). Lake Winnebago conveniently -divides Fox r. into the Upper Fox, which runs into it, and the Lower -Fox, which runs out of it into Green bay; it also acts as a sort of -reservoir or regulator to prevent freshets in the Lower Fox. The -western shore is now skirted with railroads all the way from Menasha -to Fond du Lac, and various towns are strung along this distance. Just -before Fox r. falls in, it suffers dilatation into what was and is -still called Lac Butte des Morts, the head of which is about 7 m. from -Oshkosh; town of the same cheerful name there now. In this vicinity -Loup or Wolf r. falls into the Upper Fox, after passing through an -expansion known by some such perversions of the Chippewa name as -Pawmaygun, Pauwaicun, Poygan, etc. - -[VII-10] This is easier to locate than to tell the name of. It is that -dilatation of Upper Fox r. which lies mainly in Green Lake Co., and -for some little distance separates this from Marquette Co. The lake is -141/2 m. long, but very narrow. Rush l. would be the English translation -of the Indian name, a few of the variants of which are Apachquay, -Apuckaway, Apukwa, Puckaway, Packaway, Pokeway, Puckway, Pacaua, etc. -Before this notable lake was reached, the canoes passed the mouth of -Wolf r., as above said; of Waukan r., discharging from a certain Rush -l. in Winnebago Co., in the vicinity of places called Omri, Delhi, and -Eureka; a couple of small streams at and near Berlin, Green Lake Co.; -Puckegan cr., the discharge of Green l., which falls in at Fiddler's -(qu. Fidler's?) Bend, on the S.; near this White r., on the N.; -present site of Princeton, Green Lake Co., 121/4 m. above Fiddler's -Bend; and lastly Mechan or Mecan r., whence it is only 6 m. to Lake -Puckaway. The town of Marquette, Green Lake Co., is on the lake near -its foot; and 7 m. above its head is Montello, seat of Marquette Co. A -stream absurdly called Grand r. falls in on the S. between Lake -Puckaway and Montello. From Montello to Packwaukee is 8 m.; this is on -Boeuff, Beef, or Buffalo l., a dilatation of the river like Lake -Puckaway, but not so wide. There was an old French fort or factory -here, whose name is given as Ganville (qu. Bienville?). The "forks" of -Fox r. of which Dickson speaks is the confluence of Necha r.; but -there seems to be some copyist's mistake about the situation of his -Lac Vaseux "ten leagues above the forks"; for there is no 281/2 m. of -the river left. Lac Vaseux of the text, otherwise known as Muddy, -Rice, and Manomin, immediately succeeds Buffalo l., being below (north -of) Moundville and Roslin or Port Hope. It seems to be reckoned a part -of Lake Buffalo, for the distance hence to the Wisconsin r. is given -as only about 14 m. The canal which Dickson recommends was long since -cut, with a length of 2-1/3 m. to Portage, seat of Columbia Co. From -this place along the Wisconsin r. to the Mississippi, given by Dickson -and repeated by Long as 60 leagues = 165 m., is 112 m. I have not the -clew to the exact location of Dickson's Detour du Pin or Pine Bend; -but I imagine it was about the situation of Lone Rock, Richland Co., -above the mouth of Pine r., and below the place that Mr. Whitney named -Helena, when he had his curious shot-tower there some 60 years ago. - -[VII-11] The Montreal or Kawasidjiwong r. is a small stream which -separates Wisconsin from Michigan for some little distance, and falls -into Lake Superior at Oronto bay, E. of Point Clinton. The connection -with Sauteur or Chippewa r., of which Pike speaks, was made by -portages from the main E. fork of the Chippewa--that is, from -Manidowish, Flambeau, or Torch r. But we should note here that there -was more than one recognized route by way of the Chippewa from the -Mississippi to Lake Superior, and in Carver's case, for example, -confusion has arisen in consequence. Thus, some say that Carver left -the Mississippi by way of Chippewa r. This is true; but he did not -reach Lake Superior by way of Flambeau r. and Montreal r. Observing -this, some say he reached Lake Superior by way of the St. Croix and -the river he calls Goddard's. This is true; but he did not leave the -Mississippi by St. Croix r. In June, 1767, Carver came from Prairie du -Chien up the Miss. r. to the Chippewa; he went up this for the Ottawaw -lakes, as he calls the present Lac Court Oreilles and some lesser ones -close by; visited the Chippewa town whence the river took its name, he -says, "near the heads of this river;... In July I left this town, and -having crossed a number of small lakes and carrying places that -intervened, came to a head branch of the river St. Croix. This branch -I descended to a fork, and then ascended another to its source. On -both these rivers I discovered several mines of virgin copper, which -was as pure as that found in any other country. Here I came to a small -brook," which by confluence of others soon "increased to a most rapid -river, which we descended till it entered into Lake Superior.... This -river I named ... Goddard's River," Trav., ed. 1796, pp. 66, 67. A -small river west of Goddard's Carver named Strawberry r., "from the -great number of strawberries of a good size and flavor that grew on -its banks." - -[VII-12] Pike was sadly misinformed on this point. No place on the river -is better known than St. Croix falls, above Osceola Mills, Polk Co., -Wis., and Franconia, Chisago Co., Minn., where the descent is quoted -at 5 feet in 300 yards. Higher up, the river has many rapids--toward -its head so many that Nicollet's map legends "Succession of Rapids"; -Schoolcraft's marks about a dozen; Lieut. Allen, when abandoned by Mr. -Schoolcraft, encountered "almost interminable rapids"; La Salle cited -Du Luth for "forty leagues of rapids," in his letter from Fort -Frontenac, Aug. 22d, 1682; and Hennepin called the St. Croix "a river -full of rapids." They are most numerous and most nearly continuous -above Yellow and Namakagon rivers, two of the principal branches of -the Upper St. Croix, both of which drain from the region about the -Ottawa lakes and others in Sawyer and Washburn cos., Wis. Pike's Burnt -r. is supposed to be the same as Carver's Goddard r.; it is also -called Burnt Wood r., from the F. Bois Brule, and the latter name is -still in use. Burnt r. is called by Nicollet Wissakude and by others -Misacoda--a name no doubt the same as Nimissakouat, Nemitsakouat, -Nissipikouet, etc., _de l'ancien regime_; on Franquelin's map, 1688, -it stands Neouoasicoton. This last is a specially notable case, as -Franquelin marks "Fort St. Croix" and "Portage" near the head of his -river at a certain "Lac de la Providence" in which he heads his "R. de -la Magdelaine"; for these are the Upper St. Croix l. and the St. Croix -r. (This post was probably established by Du Luth before 1684 or 1685; -he had been in Paris in 1683; at Montreal, Quebec, etc., 1682 and -1681; and in June, 1680, made the Bois Brule-St. Croix trip from Lake -Superior to the Mississippi.) Franquelin's early map, 1683-84, is said -to be the first to delineate the Bois Brule-St. Croix route: this -shows R. de la Magdelaine connecting by Lac de la Providence with R. -Neouaisicoton, but no Fort St. Croix is there marked. This river is -said well enough to head in this lake; but more precisely, its sources -are in the feeders of this lake. One of these, which is situated on a -pine ridge a couple of miles off, offers the always interesting, -though not very rare case of a sheet of water running two ways; for -this small Source l., as it is called, discharges one way into the St. -Croix stream, hence into the Gulf of Mexico, and the other way into -Burnt r., which takes water to Lake Superior and finally to the Gulf -of St. Lawrence. The Burnt is navigable, though much obstructed with -shoals, rapids, and falls; it runs in the main northward, near the E. -border of Douglas Co. (named for Stephen A. Douglas), and falls into -the Kichi Gummi, Sea of the North, West Sea, Grand Lac (Champlain's -Voy., 1632, map), Lac de Conde, Lac de Tracy, Lac Superieur, Lacus -Superior (De Creux, 1664, map), Lake Algona, etc. There were Chippewa -villages along nearly the whole line of both the rivers at various -points, including one on an island in the Upper St. Croix l. Islands -and peninsulas in lakes were always favorite sites, for in such cases -these Indians enjoyed some additional immunity from the Sioux in what -we may style their "moated granges." On the St. Croix r., low down, -was the Chippewa-Sioux boundary line, marked for some years by cedar -trees which stood there a few miles below St. Croix falls: see note -17, p. 101. - -[VII-13] Keating, I. 1824, p. 287, cites Long's MS. 1817, fol. 12, that -Major Long's "boat crossed it, from a dead start, in 16 strokes." -Referring to note 69, p. 70, for some historical remarks on St. -Pierre's r., I wish to add here that this remarkable stream was at one -period the main course of the Mississippi. The evidence of the rocks -supports the opinion that the Falls of St. Anthony were once opposite -the position of Fort Snelling. The Mississippi above the mouth of St. -Pierre's differs in various particulars from the character it acquires -below that point, and was once tributary to a then greater stream. -This case does not seem to have attracted the attention to which it -became entitled after its forcible presentation by General Warren. It -is not so well marked as the obvious case of the Missouri _vs._ the -Mississippi, in which there is no question which is the main and which -the subsidiary stream; but it is similar. In other words, what the -Mississippi is to the Missouri above St. Louis, that the Mississippi -has been to the Minnesota above Fort Snelling. - -[VII-14] The "rough draft" herein mentioned was published in the orig. -ed. as a plate of page size, and is reproduced in facsimile for the -present ed. - -[VII-15] Pike's phrase "Le Mille Lac" brings up an orthographic case -unique in some respects. No Minnesota lake is better known than this -one; but what shall we call it? Shall we say Mille Lac, and then call -the county in which it is partly situated Mille Lacs, as the G. L. O. -map of 1887 does? Is the single body of water Le Mille Lac, as Pike -says, or Les Mille Lacs? Is this one lake of a thousand, or a thousand -lakes in one? Nobody seems to know; hence a crop of phrases, _e. g._, -Mille Lac, Mille Lacs, Milles Lac, Milles Lacs; also, Mille Lac Lake, -Lake Mille Lac, Lake Mille Lacs, Mille Lacs Lake; item, Mil Lac, Mill -Lake, and other vagaries too many and too trivial to cite, all of -which the student of Minnesota geography will discover sooner or -later. The phrase being French, we naturally turn to see what a pure -French scholar who was also a great geographer has to say on the -subject. Speaking of the Sioux having their principal hunting-camps on -Leech l. and on "_Minsi-sagaigon-ing_, or Mille Lacs," Nicollet -explains in a note, Rep. 1843, p. 66: "This name is derived from -_minsi_, all sorts, or everywhere, etc.; _sagaigon_, lake; and _ing_, -which is a termination used to indicate a place; so the meaning of the -word is 'place where there are all sorts of lakes,' which the French -have rendered into Mille Lacs." Whence it appears that _Mille Lacs_ is -short for some such phrase as _le pays aux mille lacs_, _l'entourage -des mille lacs_, the country full of lakes, the environment of a -thousand lakes, etc. Now it so happens geographically that this one -lake among the thousand is vastly larger than any of the rest, perhaps -than all the rest put together; it is _par excellence le lac des mille -lacs_, the one among a thousand; furthermore, that it was a Sioux -rendezvous, which became known as Mille Lacs by a sort of unconscious -figure of speech on the part of those who very likely never heard of -the rhetorical trope synecdoche, but called a part by the name of the -whole, to suit themselves. I imagine, therefore, that the seeming -solecism of a plural phrase for a singular thing is logically correct; -that Nicollet was right in writing Mille Lacs; that Lac Mille Lacs -would be grammatically defensible, though inelegant; and that we could -say in English Lake Mille Lacs, or Lake Thousand-lakes, with equal -propriety, though we should avoid such forms as Lake Mille Lac, or -Mille Lac lake. In fine, the phrase Mille Lacs has ceased to concern -any question of grammatical number, and become a mere _name_ of two -words. As for the pleonasm or tautology of such phrases as Lac Mille -Lacs, or Lake Mille Lacs, etc., this need not disturb us as long as we -continue to talk of "Mississippi river," for example, as that means -"Misi River river." There are several earlier names of this remarkable -body of water. The memoir of Le Sieur Daniel Greysolon Du Luth on the -discovery of the country of the Nadouecioux, addressed in 1685 to -Monseigneur Le Marquis de Seignelay, as translated from the original -in the archives of the Ministry of the Marine, has this passage, as -given, _e. g._, in Shea's Hennep., 1880, p. 375: "On the 2nd of July, -1679, I had the honor to plant his Majesty's arms in the great village -of the Nadouecioux, called Izatys, where never had a Frenchman been, -no more than at the Songaskitons and Huetbatons," etc. De or Du Luth, -Lhut, Lhu, Lut, Lud, whatever the trader's name was, had come from -Montreal (Sept. 1st, 1678) with six or eight men to this part of -Canada and was in the vicinity of Sault Ste. Marie on Apr. 5th, 1679, -under the patronage of Comte Louis de Buade de Frontenac, who had -succeeded De Courcelle as governor of Canada Apr. 9th, 1672; -consequently he named the lake Lac de Buade or Lac Buade; this was its -original denomination in French, and such name appears on many old -maps, _e. g._, Hennepin's, 1683, Franquelin's, 1688, De L'Isle's, -1703, etc., some of which also mark a place by the name of Kathio, -supposed to be the site of a large Sioux village, on the W. side of L. -de Buade, near the base of the peninsula later known as Cormorant -Point. Du Luth's Izatys were Gens des Mille Lacs, _i. e._, Sioux who -lived about Lake Mille Lacs in the country of that "number of small -lakes called the Thousand Lakes," as Carver phrases it; they were the -Issati or Islati, Issaqui, Issanti, Issanati, Issanoti, Issayati, -etc., meaning those who lived in lodges on sharp stones, _i. e._, -Knife Indians, at one of the Mille Lacs called Lake Isan or Knife l. -However loosely Du Luth's term Izatys may have come to be used, it -designated and most properly designates the genuine original Gens du -Lac, or People of Lake Thousand-lakes, our modern Mdewakontonwans. Du -Luth's Houetbatons are supposed to be our Wakpatons, Warpetonwans, or -Waqpatonwans; his Songaskitons, our Sisitonwans, Seseetwawns or -Sissetons, _i. e._, lake-dwellers (_sisi_, marsh or lake, _tonwan_, -people); these two tribes are located on old maps eastward of Lake -Mille Lacs. In 1689, date of Pierre Lesueur's and Nicholas Perrot's -visit to Sioux dominions, we hear that N. E. of the Mississippi lived -the Menchokatonx or Mendesuacantons, _i. e._, the same Sioux as Du -Luth's Izatys of Lac Buade. According to E. D. Neill, Macalester Coll. -Cont. No. 10, in 1697 Aubert de la Chesnaye said that "at the lake of -the Issaqui, also called Lake Buade, are villages of the Sioux called -Issaqui; and beyond this lake are the Oetbatons; further off are the -Anitons who are also Cioux." Neill also cites a certain doc., dated -Quebec, 1710, which states that "the three bands with which we are -acquainted are the Tintons, the Songasquitons, and the Ouadebaetons." -Two of these are obviously the same as two of Du Luth's; the third -(Tintons) are the same as the Izatys, or rather a band of Indians who -came under this more general denomination. This connection is -established in Hennepin, whose Tintonbas, Tintonhas, or Thinthonhas -were Sioux who lived on the St. Francis (or Rum r., the main discharge -of Lake Buade) near the Issantis, and were the Indians who captured -his companions and himself. This dig at the roots of primitive Sioux -ethnology is merely to bring up the next name of Lac Buade; for, from -such intimate connection as this body of water had with certain Sioux, -it immediately became known as Lac des Issatis, and soon as Lac des -Sioux, or Sioux l.; moreover, St. Francis or Rum r., which runs out of -the lake, became Sioux r.; _e. g._, Franquelin's map, 1688, marks "R. -des Francois ou des Sioux." De L'Isle's map, 1703, letters the lake -"Mississacaigan ou L. Buade," and the issuant river "R. de -Mendeouacanion." The first of these two Indian names is the one which -Nicollet adopts for the lake in the form Minsi Sagaigoning; the other -is the same word as Mdewakantonwan. Nicollet's remark on this subject, -like all his pregnant writing, requires attention here, especially as -it raises a geographical besides a nomenclatural point, Rep. 1843, p. -67: "We still find some confusion on the maps as regards the name of -_Minsi-sagaigon-ing_. Some have laid it down as _Mille Lacs_; others -as Spirit lake; and on others, again, it appears as two lakes, with -(separately) both names. The ambiguity arises from the fact that the -same lake has been named by two nations. The one which I have adopted -is from the Chippeways; that by which it is known to the Sioux is -_Mini-wakan_--meaning literally, water spirit; but, in this case, -intended to signify _ardent spirits_. The river that issues from this -lake has been named Rum river by the traders; which appellation the -Chippeways have translated into _Ishkode-wabo_, or ardent spirits; and -the Sioux into _Mdote-mini-wakan_, or outlet of the ardent spirits." -That is a dismal aboriginal pun which mixes up nature-spirits with the -artificial product, turns the lake into a bottle, and the river into -its neck; it is bad enough to have been perpetrated "next morning," -and it is too bad that the debauches to which the traders allured the -Indians should have been perpetuated in geographical nomenclature. -Spirit l. is the name under which Long, for example, maps Lake Mille -Lacs, and the Gens du Lac he calls People of Spirit Lake; and -Schoolcraft, Narr. Journ. of 1820, pub. 1821, p. 214, has Great Spirit -lake and Missisawgaiegon--the latter name also applied to its -discharge (Rum r.). Spirit is not now a name of Lake Mille Lacs; the -one for which Nicollet conserved the name Mini-wakan, and which hence -became known as Spirit l. and Devil's l., is the large body of water -in N. Dakota, tributary to the Red River of the North; Spirit l. of -modern Minnesota geography is a little one of the collection in Aitkin -Co., between Lower Red Cedar l. and Mille Lacs l. The latter is the -second largest lacustrine body of water in the State. It is situated -across the intercounty line between Aitkin and Mille Lacs, about half -in one and half in the other of these two counties. Its figure is more -regular than usual, being squarish, with three corners rounded off and -the S. E. one drawn out a little; there is also some constriction -about the middle, where points facing each other run out from the E. -and W. shore respectively; the shore line is said to be about 100 -miles in all. The lake is readily accessible, being only some 12 m. S. -of Aitkin, and is a favorite resort for outings. One of the 14 present -Ojibwa reservations is on its S. shore. - -[VII-16] There is an error here, as what Hennepin called the St. Francois -in 1680 is Rum r. of Carver, 1766, and authors generally; while St. -Francis r. of Carver, which he thought was Hennepin's St. Francois, is -Pike's Leaf r., now known as Elk r. See note 7, p. 95, where this -case is fully discussed. - -[VII-17] Pike maps four on the W., above his Clear = Platte r., and -below his Pine cr. = Swan r.: see note 19, p. 103. - -[VII-18] The name of this branch of St. Pierre's r. in Minnesota -duplicates that of a large branch of the Mississippi in Wisconsin. The -Minnesota tributary is Miawakong r. of Long's map, 1823, and Manya -Wakan r. of Nicollet's, 1843. - -[VII-19] Lac a la Queue de Loutre of the F., whence the E. name. This is -the largest body of water into which the Red River of the North -expands in Minnesota, and may be called a principal source of that -river, as Pike says, though it compares with the true source very much -as Leech l. or Winnibigoshish l. does with that of the Mississippi. It -is situated about the center of Otter Tail Co., some 60-70 m. S. W. of -Leech l.; Pike's map tucks it up snug under Leech l. The Leech-Otter -Tail traverse, or route by which one passed from Mississippian waters -to those of Red r., as beyond indicated by Pike, is given in detail by -Schoolcraft upon information of traders who were familiar with this -chain of lakes. Using the nomenclature of his Narrative, etc., 1834, -p. 105, it may be stated as follows: From Leech l. through lakes -called Warpool, Little Long, of the Mountain and of the Island, to the -Crow Wing series, or Longwater, Little Vermillion, Birch, and Ple. -Lake Ple was the one where the route forked--one way leading on down -the Crow Wing series, the other turning off to the Otter Tail series. -The latter consisted in, first, a portage of four pauses to Island l.; -portage of one pause into a small lake which led into another, and -this into Lagard l.; half a pause to a small lake; pause and a half to -another; four pauses into Migiskun Aiaub or Fishline l.; a pause into -Pine l.; five pauses into a small river which runs into Scalp l. The -latter has an outlet which expands into three successive and about -equidistant lakes, and is then received into Lac Terrehaute, or Height -of Land l. The outlet of this last expands into a lake, and again into -water called Two Lakes from its form; whence the discharge is into -Otter Tail l. It is not easy to pick this exact route up from a modern -map; but I may add that it runs in Hubbard, Becker, and Otter Tail -cos.; that some of the lakes on or near this series are known as -Height of Land, Little Pine, Pine, and Rush (these being on the course -of Otter Tail r., and therefore on the Red River water-shed); and that -some places on or near the route are called Park Rapids, Osage, -Linnell, Shell Lake, Jarvis, Erie, McHugh, Frazer City, Lace, Perham, -and St. Lawrence. The N. P. R. R. from Moorhead to Brainerd crosses -the route in two or three places, one of these being between Pine and -Rush lakes. - -[VII-20] Pinenet or pinenett is Pike's version of epinette of the French -voyageurs, name of the tree we commonly call tamarac or hackmetack, -and which the botanists know as black larch, _Larix americana_. It is -so abundant and characteristic in some places that the wet grounds in -which it grows are usually called tamarac swamps. The sap pine of the -same sentence has been already noted as the balsam-fir, _Abies -balsamea_: see note 44, p. 132. There is a Lac Sapin, called in -English Balsam-fir lake. The supposed occurrence of hemlock, _Tsuga -canadensis_, in this locality is open to question. - -[VII-21] "R. le Crosse" of Pike's map, the discharge of the lake now -universally known as Ball Club: see the account of it in note 56, -p. 150. - -[VII-22] The lake which Pike calls Winipie is the large body of water in -British America, through which the combined streams of the Assiniboine -and Red River of the North find their way into Hudson's bay, and which -we know as Lake Winnipeg; but this does not further concern us now. -Pike's Lake Winipeque is what we now call Lake Winnibigoshish, on the -course of the Mississippi. The French forms of the latter name, such -as Ouinipique, etc., whence our Winipeque, Winipec, Winipeck, etc., -are diminutizing terms, as if to say Little Lake Winipeg. There can be -no occasion for confounding the two lakes, notwithstanding the -similarity and sometimes the identity of their names. - -Lake Winnibigoshish is that very large dilatation of the Mississippi -which lies next below Cass l.: see note 8, p. 159, for the distance -between the two, and details of that section of the river which -connects them. The variants of its name are moderately numerous: -Winipeque, as above, but Winipec on Pike's map; Wenepec, Lewis and -Clark's map, 1814; Little Winnepeck, Long; Winnipec, Beltrami, -Schoolcraft; Winnepeg and Big Winnipeg, Allen; Winibigoshish, -Nicollet, Owen--this last the only name now used, generally with -doubled _n_, and with some variants, like Winnepegoosis, etc. This is -the second largest body of water in the whole Itascan basin, exceeded -only by Leech l., and much exceeding Cass l.; its area is probably not -far from that of Lake Pepin, but the shape is very different. The -figure is squarish, with the N. W. and S. W. corners rounded off, and -the N. E. corner extended into a well-marked bay; the main diameters -are about 11 m. from N. to S., and 71/2 from E. to W.; the area thus -indicated is little encroached upon by projecting points, so that the -shore line is shorter than usual in proportion to the extent of -waters; the collateral feeders of the lake are comparatively few and -unimportant. The lake lies partly in no fewer than eight townships -(each 6 x 6 m. sq.); but it only slightly encroaches on five of these, -occupying nearly all of T. 146, R. 28, 5th M., the greater part of T. -145, R. 28, and about half of T. 146, R. 27: actual area thus -equivalent to rather more than two townships, or over 72 sq. m. The -construction of the government dam at the outlet has decidedly altered -the shore line, and modified other natural features; the overflow due -to this obstruction has inundated the original shore contour in the -low places, formed some backwater expansions, and drowned countless -trees. Many of these stand stark and black where they grew, far out -from the present shore line, which itself is piled with drift-wood in -most places. Snags also abound all along the wooded shores, and the -water is so shallow that some beds of bulrushes rise above the surface -a mile or more from land. The scene is desolate and forbidding. Add to -this a danger of navigation to an unusual degree for the frail -birch-bark canoes which alone are used on Winnibigoshish. The lake is -too large to be safely crossed in such boats at any time. Even the -Indians habitually sneak to the shore through the snags and rushes; -for the water is very shallow, easily churned up to quite a sea. -Sudden squalls and shifting currents are always to be expected, and -one runs considerable risk in venturing where land cannot be made in a -few minutes, if necessary. It would be nothing, of course, to a -well-built keel-boat with sail and oars; but a birch-bark is quite -another craft. I have seen Winnibigoshish as smooth as glass, and then -in a few minutes been glad to put ashore, to escape a choice between -swamping or capsizing, amid whitecaps and combers at least four feet -from crest to hollow, breaking on a lee shore full of snags and piled -with driftwood. Good landing places are not to be found all along; -most of the shore is low, and much of it consists of floating-bog, in -which a man may sink as easily, and less cleanly, than in quicksand, -if he sets an incautious foot. The water is so impure as to be -scarcely fit for drinking; the lake is a sort of cesspool for all the -sewerage of the basin whose waters pass through it. Winnibigoshish, in -short, is dreary, dirty, deceitful, and dangerous. - -The Mississippi enters this reservoir in the S. W. part, at a point in -the S. W. 1/4 of Sect. 36, T. 146, R. 29, 5th M., where it sweeps around -a firm bank, steep enough to be cut in some places, and on which some -Indians live; quite a little delta extends far out into the lake, -overgrown with bulrushes to such an extent as to hide the opening. But -it is not difficult to thread any one of several ways through these to -the high bank just said, which is the land-mark; a more conspicuous -one, from a distance, is a piece of high woodland whose point is due -S. 1/2 m. from the inlet. Hence southward is the nearest approach of -Leech l.; a traverse offers by means of Portage l. (Nicollet's Lake -Duponceau), though the carrying-place is somewhat over 2 m. long. - -Passing northward, to our left as we start from the Mississippian -inlet to go around the shore, the first prominent feature is Raven's -point, distant from the inlet 4 m. The maps all represent this as much -longer and sharper than it looked to my eye; probably much of the -point that was once land is now under water, owing to the dam. It is -the site of a squalid village of Chippewas, who have been civilized -into the whole assortment of our own vices. A considerable stream -falls in here, which I suppose is Kaminaigokag r. of Nicollet and -Owen, though it is nameless on more modern maps. Its mouth is in Sect. -18, T. 146, R. 29, close to the N. border of Sect. 19; near by is a -lake about a mile in diameter, probably due to overflowage. Rounding -Raven's point and proceeding N. 4 m. further, we come to a little bay -into which flows a considerable stream from the W. This is Third r., -often marked "III. R." The reason for this name will presently appear. -Schoolcraft in Narr. Journey of 1820, pub. 1821, p. 246, calls it -"Thornberry river, or La riviere des Epinettes," but F. _epinette_ -does not mean "thornberry": see note 20, p. 319. The mouth of Third -r. falls in the N. W. 1/4 of Sect. 33, T. 147, R. 28. Coasting now E. -along the N. shore, we round the prominence which defines Third River -bay, and which I call Windy pt. from my experience there--it had no -name that I could discover. It consists of a floating-bog for some -distance back, and in this morass, further eastward, a small creek -empties in Sect. 35 of the T. and R. last said; this may be called Bog -cr., if no earlier name can be found; it is not one of the regularly -enumerated streams. A mile and a half eastward of Bog cr., nearly or -exactly on the line between Sect. 36 of the same township and Sect. 31 -of T. 147, R. 27, is the mouth of Pigeon r. No other name is heard on -the spot; but this is Second r. or "II. R." of the geographers. -Schoolcraft, _l. c._, called it Round Lake r., and Round l. is present -name of its principal source. There is a good landing here on a bit of -beach under a firm, bluffy bank, the site of the most decent and -well-to-do Chippewa village about the lake. Three and a half miles E. -S. E. of Pigeon r. is the wide, irregular opening of Cut Foot Sioux -r., otherwise First r., or "I. R.," which discharges from a system of -lakes, the nearest one of which is marked Cut Toe l. by Owen, and -Keeskeesedatpun l. on the Jewett map of 1890. This is the river called -Turtle Portage r. by Schoolcraft, _l. c._ Several houses stand on and -under the high land on the E. or left bank, a fraction of a mile back -of the opening, among them the trading-house of one Fairbanks, where -the usual robberies are perpetrated under another name, but without -further pretense of any sort. Four miles from the mouth of the Cut -Foot Sioux, in a direction about S. S. E., is the outlet of the -Mississippi, at the bottom of a large bay, offset from the rest of the -lake by prominent points of land. The separation of this bay from the -main body of waters is scarcely less well-marked than that of Pike bay -from the rest of Cass l. I propose to call it Dam bay. The points of -land which delimit its opening into Lake Winnibigoshish are: A long -linguiform extension from the S., occupying all the ground not -overflowed of Sects. 15 and 16, T. 146, R. 27, which may be designated -Tongue pt.; and opposite this, on the N., a much less extensive -prominence, which may become known as Rush pt., in Sect. 10 of the T. -and R. last said. Paddling 11/2 m. from Cut Foot Sioux r., we go through -the strait between Tongue and Rush pts., and are then in Dam bay, a -roundish body of water about 21/2 m. in diameter. At the S. end of this -is the short thoroughfare (outlet of the Mississippi), less than a -mile long, which leads into Little Lake Winnibigoshish, and has been -dammed at its lower end, in the S. W. 1/4 of Sect. 25, necessitating, of -course, a portage of a few yards in canoeing. The dam in part consists -of a solid embankment, stretching from the S.; the rest is the wooden -construction for raising and lowering a series of gates by which the -flow of water can be regulated. This work looks sadly in need of -repair, and is said to be none too secure. At the N. end of the dam is -a high wooded hill, a fine spring of water, and some vacant buildings; -on the other side is a narrow pond over a mile long, called Rice l. - -Immediately below the dam, the Mississippi dilates into Little Lake -Winnibigoshish (once Rush l.), of irregularly oval figure, 23/4 m. long -by scarcely over 1 m. in greatest breadth, its longest diameter about -N. W. to S. E. At a point near the S. E. is the portage, or carrying -place, over to Ball Club l., whose head is there distant about a mile: -see note 56, p. 150. The outlet of the Mississippi is on the S., in -the N. W. 1/4 Sect. 6, T. 145, R. 26. Thence the river flows scarcely W. -of S. for 3 m. direct, but I judge fully 61/2 by its extremely tortuous -channel, to a place in Sect. 24, T. 145, R. 27, where some rapids -occur; these, however, are easily shot. The further course of the -river is S. E., 8 m. direct, but more than twice as far by the bends, -to the confluence of Leech Lake r., or Pike's "Forks of the -Mississippi": see back, note last cited, p. 151. This whole section of -the Mississippi, from Little Lake Winnibigoshish to the mouth of Leech -Lake r., is easy canoeing down, with plenty of smooth, swift water, -even at low stages, and good places to camp all along on the wooded -points against which the channel continually abuts as it bends from -side to side of the low bottom-land, mostly overgrown with reeds -(_Phragmites communis_) and bulrushes (_Scirpus lacustris_), but -toward Leech Lake r. becoming meadowy and thus fit for haying. Besides -the main bends, or regular channel, there are a great many minor -sluices or cut-offs, practicable for canoeists; and one is borne -quickly along by the current, without minding much whether one is in -the channel or not. This way down, though circuitous and several times -as far as the route by Ball Club l., which lies off to the left as you -descend, is decidedly preferable; but going up river I should advise -one to take the route through Ball Club, and portage over to Little -Lake Winnibigoshish. - -[VII-23] William Morrison is the first of white men known to have been at -Lake Itasca. He wintered at Lac la Folle, 1803-4, visited Lake Itasca -in 1804, and again in 1811 or 1812. Mr. Morrison was b. Canada, 1783, -d. there Aug. 9th, 1866. He kept a journal, which was lost, of his -movements before 1824. He described "Elk" l. to his daughter, Mrs. -Georgiana Demaray, and various other persons; he considered and -declared himself the first of white men at the source, though his -claim does not appear to have become a matter of authentic, citable -publication till 1856: see Final Rep. Minn. Geol. Surv., I. p. 26. The -document on which his claim mainly rests is the extant original of a -letter addressed by William to his brother Allan, dated Berthier, Jan. -16th, 1856. This is published verbatim in Brower's Report, Minn. Hist. -Soc. Coll., VII. 1893, pp. 122-124. Brower says (_l. c._ p. 120) that -the "Morrison letter," as originally published in Minn. Hist. Soc. -Coll., I. 1856, pp. 103, 104, or 2d ed., 1872, pp. 417-419, is "a -composite production." The article there covering the William Morrison -letter is entitled "Who Discovered Itasca Lake?" and includes a letter -from Allan Morrison to General Alexander Ramsay (now ex-Secretary of -War and President of the Society), dated Crow Wing, Benton County, M. -T., Feb. 17th, 1856. Charles Hallock, Esq., formerly of New York, the -well-known author of the Sportsman's Gazetteer and many other works, -founder of the Forest and Stream weekly in New York, and of the town -of Hallock, now the seat of Kittson Co., Minn., published a version of -the "Morrison letter," said to be a "correct copy," in his article The -Red River Trail, Harper's Mag. XIX. No. cix, June, 1859, p. 37, which -aroused the jealous recalcitration of Mr. Schoolcraft, whose -reclamation was made in a letter to George H. Moore, Esq., Librarian -of the New York Historical Society, dated Washington, Aug. 12th, 1859, -and published in the N. Y. Evening Post, Aug. 23d, 1859, p. 1, column -4. I have not inspected Morrison's autograph letter; but I have -compared the three printed versions here in mention--the one of 1856 -or 1872, Hallock's of 1859, and Brower's of 1893. They are all to the -same effect, and evidently from one source; but the textual -discrepancies of all three are so great that they can scarcely be -called "copies." Brower speaks of "several letters written by Mr. -Morrison on this subject," and states that the one he prints, of Jan. -16th, 1856, "is given in full, and just as written and signed." From -this imprint I extract the following clauses: "I left the old Grand -Portage, July, 1802, ... in 1803-4, I went and wintered at Lac La -Folle.... Lac La Biche is near to Lac La Folle. Lac La Biche is the -source of the Great River Mississippi, which I visited in 1804, and if -the late Gen. Pike did not lay it down as such when he came to Leech -lake it is because he did not happen to meet me.... I visited in 1804, -Elk lake, and again in 1811-12," etc. Nothing appears to invalidate -this letter; for Mr. Schoolcraft's contemptuous contention of 1859 -belittled Mr. Morrison and Mr. Hallock without disproving or even -disputing Mr. Morrison's claim. The gravamen of Mr. Schoolcraft's -charge is contained in the statement "that he [Morrison], or his -friends in Minnesota, should have deferred forty-seven years to make -this important announcement, is remarkable." It may have been -"remarkable"; but it is not inexplicable. Mr. Henry D. Harrower, in -the Educational Reporter Extra, Ivison, Blakeman, Taylor and Co., New -York and Chicago, pub. Oct., 1886, 8vo, p. 17, has some discerning and -judicious remarks on this score: "The statements of the brothers -Morrison have generally been received without question by scientists -and geographers in Minnesota; and in his letter Allan Morrison -expresses surprise that anyone should be ignorant of the title of his -brother to the discovery of Itasca prior to Schoolcraft. It is a -curious fact, however, that Allan Morrison acted as guide for Charles -Lanman for a number of weeks in 1846, during which time they visited -Itasca Lake; and that Lanman, in his published account of the trip, -nowhere mentions Wm. Morrison, or intimates that he was ever at the -source of the Mississippi, but definitely ascribes the discovery to -Schoolcraft in 1832. See Lanman's 'Adventures in the Wilderness,' vol. -i, pages 48, 75, etc. I venture the opinion that Morrison first -identified his Elk Lake of 1804 with Schoolcraft's Itasca when he read -Schoolcraft's 'Summary Narrative' (1855); and that it is safe to say -that if Morrison discovered Lake Itasca, Schoolcraft discovered -Morrison." This may be considered to raise the question, What -constitutes discovery? But that does not affect the main issue. Mr. -Morrison's declaration that he visited Lake Itasca in 1804 and again -in 1811-12 thus far rests uncontested. If the case is ever re-opened, -it will probably be upon newly discovered documentary evidence of -priority of discovery by some Frenchman. When Pike was at Leech l. he -just missed, by some months and scarcely more miles, the glory of the -most important discovery he could possibly have made in the course of -this or his other expedition. - -In May, 1820, Lewis Cass, then governor of Michigan, left Detroit with -38 men, among whom was Henry Rowe Schoolcraft. Proceeding by -Michilimackinac he struck the Miss. r. at Sandy l., and entered it -July 17th. The narrative recites that he went to Peckagama falls, -thence 55 m. to the Forks, 45 to Lake Winnipec, and about 50 m. more -to the large lake then first called Cassina and afterward Cass l. by -Schoolcraft. This was entered July 21st; but the party went no -further. It was then represented to them that the source of the river -was in a lake called La Beesh, _i. e._, La Biche, erroneously supposed -to be 60 miles N. W.; upon which the river was computed to be 3,038 m. -long, at an altitude of 1,330 feet: for the particulars of this -voyage, see Schoolcraft's Narrative Journal, etc., pub. E. and E. -Hosford, Albany, N. Y., 1821, 1 vol. 8vo, pp. i-xvi, 17-419, 4 unpaged -pages of index, map, plates; it is full of errors. The Cradled -Hercules, as Nicollet later called it, slept on this till Schoolcraft -returned in 1832 to awaken the infant, with Lieut. Allen, Rev. Mr. -Boutwell, Dr. Houghton, and Mr. Johnston, under the leadership of -Chief Ozawindib. - -Giacomo Constantino Beltrami was b. Bergamo, Italy, 1779; _au mieux_, -Mme. La Comtesse de Campagnoni _nee_ Passeri, at Florence, 1812; -exiled, 1821; Fort St. Anthony (Snelling), May 10th, 1823; and when -Long's expedition came in July of that year, he accompanied it up the -Minn. r. and down the Red River of the North to Pembina, where he took -offense and his conge simultaneously, between Aug. 5th-9th. The -differences between the American soldier and the expatriated Italian -were great and various. Major Long ejected Signor Beltrami on the -spot, and on paper dismissed him not less curtly and contemptuously, -making this harsh judgment a personal matter over initials S. H. L. in -Keating, I., p. 314: "An Italian whom we met at Fort St. Anthony -attached himself to the expedition and accompanied us to Pembina. He -has recently published a book entitled, 'La Decouverte des Sources du -Mississippi,' &c., which we notice merely on account of the fictions -and misrepresentations it contains." Mr. Schoolcraft makes a point of -snubbing Sig. Beltrami: see _postea_. The amiable M. le Professeur -Nicollet alone has a kindly word for his co-laborer in Mississippian -exploration: "He descended Turtle river, which empties into Lake -Cass;--that had been the terminus of the expedition of 1820, under the -command of General Cass, and in honor of whom it is so named. Now, as -the sources of Turtle river are more distant from the mouth of the -Mississippi than this [Itasca] lake, Mr. Beltrami thought himself -authorized to publish that _he_ had discovered the sources of the -Mississippi. Hence, perhaps, may be explained why, as late as Mr. -Schoolcraft's expedition of 1832, the sources of the river were laid -down as N. W. of Lake Cass. I may be mistaken, but it strikes me that -American critics have been too disdainful of Mr. Beltrami's book, -which found many readers on both continents, whilst it propagated some -painful errors," Rep. 1843, p. 59. Hon. J. V. Brower, the latest and -altogether the best monographer, stigmatizes Sig. Beltrami as "a -hero-worshipper with but one hero, and that himself," Miss. R., etc., -1893, p. 136. With me the question is not one of Beltrami's character, -temperament, imagination, sex-relations, etc., but simply, What did he -do about the Mississippian _origines_? Brower gives a clear, -connected, and fair answer, _ibid._, pp. 137-141, in part from an -article by Mr. A. J. Hill of St. Paul. Beltrami bravely made his way -alone to Red l., which he left Aug. 26th, 1823; was guided Aug. 28th -to the vicinity of Turtle l.; found a spot whence he thought water -flowed four ways, N., S., E., W., to three oceans, and which _was_ a -part of the divide between Mississippian and Hudsonian waters; named -Lake Julia, tributary to Turtle l., as a "Julian source" of the -Mississippi, which it _was_; declared it to be the true source, as he -defined the "source" of a river, by position relative to position of -the mouth; declared and certainly believed he had discovered this -source, in which he was mistaken, as it was already known; named other -lakes for other friends; and was informed by his guide of Lake Itasca, -which he located on his map with approx. accuracy by the name of Doe -l., translating Lac La Biche of the F., though it appears in his text -as Bitch l. by mistake. For Beltrami distinctly speaks, II. p. 434, of -Lake Itasca: "which the Indians call Moscosaguaiguen, or Bitch lake, -which receives no tributary stream, and seems to draw its waters from -the bosom of the earth. _It is here in my opinion that we shall fix -the western sources of the Mississippi_," as Schoolcraft and Allen -did, nine years afterward. Beltrami proceeded to Cass l., and thence -to Fort St. Anthony, where he arrived after great hardships in a state -of extreme destitution; went to New Orleans, and there published his -first book, 1824. In all this I see no necessary occasion for disdain -or derision; the man did the best he could--"angels could do no more." -He showed courage, fortitude, endurance, perseverance, ambition, and -enthusiasm--all admirable qualities. He wrote an extravagant book, to -be sure; but it displays less egotism and more fidelity to the facts, -as he understood them, than Hennepin's, for example, and has a higher -moral quality than the average Jesuit Relation. He shot high, but not -with a longer bow than many a traveler before and since himself. One -test of his good faith is the perfect ease with which we can find the -facts in his book and separate them from the figments of his -overwrought imagination. Heredity and environment conspired to lead -him into grave errors of judgment and some misstatements of fact; but -which one of us who write books can stone _his_ glass house with -impunity? Beltrami's Julian source will run in the books as long as -the water runs from that source, alongside the Plantagenian and -Itascan sources. Beltrami's map locates Doe=Itasca l. with greater -accuracy than any earlier map does. The "pointed similarity" it has -been said to bear to Pike's--and I fear as a suggestion of -plagiarism--does not extend to the Itascan source, for there is not a -trace of this on Pike's published map. Beltrami went from New Orleans -to Mexico, traversed that country, reached London about 1827, -published his Pilgrimage, etc., 2 vols., and d. at Filotrano, Feb., -1855, in his 76th year. He fills the niche in Mississippian -geographical history between Cass, 1820, and Schoolcraft and Allen, -1832; meanwhile, Itasca State Park lies mainly in Beltrami Co., Minn., -which includes both the Julian and Itascan sources. There was nothing -the matter with Beltrami but woman on the brain; he had a queen bee in -his bonnet--that is all. Much that has been taken for puerile conceit -is the virile badinage of a man of the world, of wit, and of -penetration. I have read his Pilgrimage with interested attention; it -is clear to me that Beltrami was no mere _flaneur_--by no means such a -trifler as some of his passages might excuse one for supposing him to -be. He was a well-read and well-traveled man; his _obiter dicta_ on -various things, as religion, politics, society, and other broad -themes, are generally acute. He was a brave man; I imagine Major Long -had a time of it with Sioux, and Signor Beltrami too; it seems to have -been a case of scalping-knife and stiletto. As I have already cited -the military mailed hand, let us see the fine Italian hand: "Major -Long did not cut a very noble figure in the affair; I foresaw all the -disgusts and vexations I should have to experience," II. p. 303; "met -a band of Sioux. The major thought he read hostile intentions in their -faces; he even thought they had threatened him;--of course everybody -else thought so too--like Casti's courtiers; ... it was incumbent on -me, therefore, to be very much alarmed, too; ... I rather think the -fright they threw the major into was in revenge for his giving them -nothing but boring speeches. If they meant it so they had every reason -to be satisfied," II. pp. 336-37; "Colonel Snelling's son, who shewed -the most friendly concern and apprehensions for me. He also left the -major at the same time, not without violent altercation, ... with -considerable regret I parted from Dr. Say, one of the naturalists -attached to the expedition, the only one who deserved the designation -[this was a tickler for Prof. Keating's fifth rib]," II. 370; "they -[Colonel Snelling, Major Taliaferro, and others] were indignant -against Major Long for acting towards me in the miserable manner that -he did. With respect to myself, I feel towards him a sort of gratitude -for having by his disgusting manners only strengthened my -determination to leave him," II. p. 483. Beltrami was evidently able -to keep his own scalp, and his book is vastly diverting, except in the -boggy places, where he mires us down with his gynaecosophy. It is -entitled: A Pilgrimage in Europe and America, leading to the Discovery -of the Sources of the Mississippi River, etc., 2 vols., 8vo, London, -1828, pp. i-lxxvi, 1-472, and 1-545, map and plates. It is dedicated -"To the Fair Sex. Oh Woman!" The text is in epistolary form, -ostensibly addressed to the countess, and consists of 22 letters, -1821-23; matter of Julian sources, II. p. 409 _seq._, and map. - -In 1830, Cass was directed by the War Department to request -Schoolcraft, who was then an agent of the Office of Indian affairs of -the W. D., to proceed into the Chippewa country to endeavor to put an -end to the hostilities between the Chippewas and the Sioux. The wars -which neither Pike, nor Clark, nor anybody else had succeeded in -stopping permanently in those quarters were thus indirectly the cause, -and directly the occasion, of the rediscovery of the source of the -Miss. r. Schoolcraft left St. Mary's, at the foot of Lake Superior, -late in June, 1831, with 27 persons, exclusive of guides and Indian -portagers. But the atrocious massacre of Menomonees by the Sacs and -Foxes at Prairie du Chien, and other circumstances, diverted this -expedition from the sources of the river, and Schoolcraft returned to -the Sault Ste. Marie. The plan was resumed early in 1832, when another -party was made up of some 30 persons, on the basis of an attempt to -effect permanent peace between the two principal tribes. Schoolcraft -left the Sault June 7th, 1832. This place was and is on a large lake -which S. calls Igomi, Chigomi, and Gitchigomi, and others Kitchi -Gummi--though we prefer Lake Superior to the Chippewa vernacular. On -July 3d, he reached Mr. Aitkin's trading-house on the discharge of -Sandy l., a distance of about 150 m. by the usual St. Louis and -Savanna rivers route. Cass l. was entered on the 10th; this was the -point of departure for new exploration, as it was that where the Cass -expedition had ended July 21st, 1820. Cass l. was then determined to -be 2,978 instead of 3,038 m. from the Gulf of Mexico by the course of -the river. The Indian guide, Ozawindib, began to make history and -immortalize his name at this point. He took the party up the Miss. r. -to Lac Traverse or Pamitchi Gumaug, that is, to Lake Bemidji, and -thence by the chain of lakes Schoolcraft called Irving, Marquette, La -Salle, and Plantagenet, up the course of the "South" (better called -East) fork of the Miss. r. to the Naiwa r. and Usawa l., thus -discovering the linked chain which later became known as the -"Plantagenian source": see note 8, p. 162. Ozawindib then portaged -the party over to the lake which Morrison had discovered in 1804. Camp -was pitched on the island which by common consent bears Schoolcraft's -name, July 13th, 1832. The party consisted of 16 persons, including -Ozawindib, Mr. Schoolcraft, Lieut. James Allen, U. S. A., Dr. Douglass -Houghton, Rev. Wm. T. Boutwell, and Mr. George Johnston. The name -"Itasca" was a whim of Schoolcraft's, which would mislead anyone who -should search Indian languages for its etymology, especially as Mr. S. -himself affects obscurantism by saying: "Having previously got an -inkling of some of their mythological and necromantic notions of the -origin and mutations of the country, which permitted the use of a -female name for it, I denominated it Itasca." This is a dark hint of -mystic and very likely phallic superstitions; but the facts in the -case are given in Brower's Report, p. 148, from personal interview -with the Rev. Boutwell himself, who said in substance that once when -he and Mr. S. were in the same canoe in 1832, the latter suddenly -turned and asked him what was the Greek and Latin definition of the -headwaters or true source of a river. Mr. B. could not on the spur of -the moment rally any Greek, but mustered Latin enough to give Mr. S. -his choice of _Verum Caput_ (true head) or _Veritas_, _Caput_ (truth, -head); by combining which latter two words, beheading one and -bobtailing the other, Mr. S. made (Ver)ITASCA(put), and said, "Itasca -shall be the name." He was quite equal to such juggling with words; -_e. g._, his Lake Shiba is named by a word which consists of the -initial letters of _S_choolcraft, _H_oughton, _I_ohnston (for -_J_ohnston), _B_outwell, and _A_llen. It is lucky Mr. Boutwell did not -think of the Greek for "head waters," or Itasca might have been named -Lake Hydrocephalus. Mr. Schoolcraft perpetuated the etymological myth -by perpetrating some stanzas, two lines of which are: "As if in Indian -myths a truth there could be read, And these were tears indeed, by -fair Itasca shed." None of the party appears to have noticed the -smaller lake south of Itasca, though it was only 333 yards from the -head of the W. arm, which was not explored; and in fact the visit of -so much historical moment was in itself but momentary. The main point -ascertained was the _location_ of Itasca to the S. W. of Cass l., -where Beltrami had already represented it to be, instead of the N. W. -where Schoolcraft had supposed it was. The many little lakes and -streams in the Itasca basin, and all nice topographic features, were -left to be discovered by Nicollet and his successors. Their Chippewa -guide took them back by way of the main, west, or Itascan course of -the river to Cass l., whence they went to Leech l., thence by the -chain of lakes to Crow Wing r., and so on to the Mississippi again. It -is certainly not my desire to disparage Mr. Schoolcraft; but one who -could be taken to the source of the Mississippi and leave it the same -day, seeing nothing but what was shown him, and giving only a glance -at that, was not the person who should have snubbed Beltrami as he did -when he wrote that "a Mr. Beltrami, returning from the settlement of -Pembina by the usual route of the traders from Red Lake to Turtle -Lake, published at New Orleans, a small 12mo volume under the title of -'La decouverte des sources du Mississippi, et de la Riviere [_sic_] -Sanglante,' a work which has since been expanded into two heavy 8vo -volumes by the London press" (Narrative, etc., heavy 8vo, New York, -1834, p. 73). That sort of a sneer at a prior explorer in the same -region comes with particularly bad grace from a gentleman who was -expert in expanding his own stock of information to the most -voluminous proportions, and whose cacoethes scribendi, by dint of -incessant scratching, finally developed a case of pruritus senilis, -marked by an acute mania for renaming things he had named years -before: see his Summary Narrative, etc., Philada., Lippincott, Grambo -and Co., 1855. Mr. Schoolcraft never forgave Sig. Beltrami for telling -where Lake Itasca would be found; had he done so, he would have been -untrue to the supreme selfishness, inordinate vanity, vehement -prejudices, and conscientious narrow-mindedness with which his -all-wise and all-powerful Calvinistic Creator had been graciously -pleased to endow him. Another account of Schoolcraft's expedition of -1832 occupies pp. 125-132 of Minn. Hist. Soc. Coll., I. 2d ed. 1872; -Mr. Boutwell's narrative of the same is found _ibid._, pp. 153-176. - -James Allen's name is not so well known in this connection as it -should be. That is to say, the public seldom connects his name with -the discovery of Lake Itasca. But if Mr. Schoolcraft was the actual -head of the expedition of 1832, and became its best known historian, -Lieutenant Allen was a large and shapely portion of the body of that -enterprise, decidedly the better observer, geographer, and -cartographer; item, the commander of the military escort, which might -have been necessary for safety and success; item, the author of an -able, interesting, and important report upon the subject, which he -made to the military authorities. He was detailed for this duty by -order of A. Macomb, Major-General, commanding the army, dated Hdqrs. -of the Army, Washn., May 9th, 1832, and proceeded to Fort Brady, -Mich., with a detachment consisting of Corporal Wibru, and Privates -Briscoe, Beemis, Burke, Copp, Dutton, Ingram, Lentz, Riley, and Wade, -of the 5th Infantry. He was gone June 6th-Aug. 26th, 1832. His -movements were the same as Mr. Schoolcraft's, except where the latter -left him in the lurch on the St. Croix; his operations more extensive -and more intelligently directed to explore and report upon the -country. He named Schoolcraft isl. and various other things; Allen's -bay was named for him by Mr. Schoolcraft, and Allen's l. by Mr. -Brower. Allen was an Ohio man, appointed from Madison, Jefferson Co., -Ind., cadet at West Point, July 1st, 1825; 2d lieut. 5th Infantry, -July 1st, 1829; 2d lieut. 1st Dragoons, Mar. 4th, 1833; 1st lieut. May -31st, 1835; capt., June 30th, 1837; on detached service, engineering -duty, Chicago, 1837-38; d. suddenly at Fort Leavenworth, Kas., Aug. -22d or 23d, 1846, as lieutenant-colonel of a Mormon battalion of -volunteer infantry he had raised to re-enforce our Army of the West, -"beloved while living, and regretted after death, by all who knew -him," Hughes, Doniphan's Exped., 1847, p. 53. His valuable Mississippi -report, completed at Fort Dearborn (Chicago), Nov. 25th, 1833, was -transmitted to Congr. by Hon. Lewis Cass, Sec. of War, Apr. 11th, -1834, and published in Amer. State Papers, Class V. Milit. Affairs, V. -Ex. Doc. No. 579, 1st Session, 23d Congr., folio, pp. 312-344, and -map. - -The illustrious name of Jean Nicolas Nicollet is first in time on the -roll of those who have applied modern methods of exact and exacting -science to the geography of the West. Nicollet is most highly -appreciated by those who are themselves most worthy of appreciation -and most competent critics. Thus, Gen. G. K. Warren pronounces -Nicollet's map "one of the greatest contributions ever made to -American geography." It will stand forever as the sound basis of -knowledge on the subject. Notices of Nicollet's life and work are -found in: Trans. Assoc. Amer. Geol. and Nat., 1840-42, Boston, 1843, -pp. 32-34; Amer. Journ. Sci., 1st ser., XLVII. p. 139, sketch by Prof. -H. D. Rogers; Minn. Hist. Coll., I. (of 1850-56), 2d ed. 1872, pp. -183-195, memoir by Gen. H. H. Sibley; VI. 1891, pp. 242-245, being -reminiscences in the autobiography of Maj. Lawrence Taliaferro; and -VII. 1893, pp. 155-165, notice by J. V. Brower with portrait; Ann. -Rep. Smiths. Inst., 1870, p. 194; Fremont's Memoirs, I. pp. 30-72, -_passim_; notice in Educational Reporter Extra, Oct., 1886, by H. D. -Harrower; and especially N. H. Winchell, Amer. Geol., VIII. Dec., -1891, pp. 343-352, with portrait and best biography. N. was b. at -Cluses in Savoy, 1790; d. Baltimore, Md., Sept. 11th, 1843. He was a -watchmaker's apprentice till aet. 18; was a natural musician; studied -languages and mathematics, and in 1818 published an article which -became noted in the annals of insurance for its calculations on -probable duration of human life; he wrote others of similar character; -1819 to 1828, he published various mathematical and astronomical -treatises; was decorated in 1825 with the Cross of the Legion of -Honor; at one time held a professorship in the Royal College of Louis -Le Grand; was also an inspector of naval schools; he was in high -esteem, and made money. But the fickle goddess of fortune ceased to -smile; he made business ventures which failed, and cost him all his -worldly goods and all his fair-weather friends; in 1832 he was a poor -refugee in the United States. But his amiable character, his -accomplishments, his great talents, and greater genius were more -conspicuous in adversity than they had been in prosperity. He made -friends everywhere, among them some in high stations, able to estimate -his abilities and glad to use his services. Under the auspices of the -War Department, and with the personal attentions of such men as Pierre -Chouteau, Jr., Gen. Sibley, and Maj. Taliaferro, he was enabled to -make, 1833-39, those several explorations and surveys which resulted -in his Map and Report--a work which would have done credit to anyone -under any circumstances, but one which only a Nicollet could have -accomplished under the actual conditions. In 1840 and 1841 he was on -office duty in Washington, reducing his field-work and preparing his -map, which latter was drawn under his direction by Lieuts. J. C. -Fremont and E. P. Scammon. This was completed probably in 1840, as it -had been submitted to Congress and ordered to be printed, Feb. 16th, -1841. But the hardships he had endured in the field had undermined his -frail physique; the further drafts upon his balance of vitality were -overdrawn; and the fatal blow was given by Arago, who defeated his -election to the French Academy. "Pas meme un Academicien," this great -soul never wore the crown of his life. His work was published under -the editorship of Gen. J. J. Abert, to whom science is indebted in -many ways--perhaps in no one of these more than in the recognition of -the merits of the gentle Savoyard, and consequently the steps he took -to facilitate and complete Nicollet's labors. The publication forms -Doc. No. 237, 26th Congr., 2d Session, entitled: Report intended to -illustrate a Map of the Hydrographical Basin of the Upper Mississippi -River, made by I. [_sic_] N. Nicollet, etc., 1 vol, 8vo, Washington, -Blair and Rives, 1843, pp. 1-170, map, 303/4 x 37 inches; also pub. as -Ex. Doc. No. 52, Ho. Reps., 2d Sess., 28th Congr. The report is -officially addressed to Colonel Abert; the original journals and other -MSS. were to be deposited in the Bureau of the Corps of Topographical -Engineers, Sept. 13th, 1843. I have examined the original map, from -which the published one was engraved, not without some variant -lettering here and there; it is now in bad condition, very brittle, -and would soon go to pieces if often unrolled without great care in -handling it. I think it should be renovated, without delay, and put in -the best possible condition for permanent preservation. - -July 26th, 1836, Nicollet went from Fort Snelling to the Falls of St. -Anthony, with Lieutenants S. N. Plummer, G. W. Shaw, and James -McClure, to see him off; 29th, he was ascending the river; at the -mouth of the Crow Wing he left the Mississippi, ascended the former to -Gayashk or Gull r., went from this to Pine r., visited Kadikomeg or -Whitefish l. thence up E. fork of Pine r. to Kwiwisens or Boy r., and -down this into Leech l., where he spent a week, mostly camped on Otter -Tail pt., where resided his principal guide, Francis Brunet--"a man -six feet three inches high--a giant of great strength, but at the same -time full of the milk of human kindness and, withal, an excellent -natural geographer." He found here Mr. Boutwell, who was good enough -to help him out of some sort of a scrape the Chippewas got him into. -He left Leech l. in a bark canoe with Brunet, another man named -Desire, and a Chippewa whose name he renders Kegwedzissag, since -spelled Gaygwedosay and applied to a creek which runs into present Elk -l. He crossed several small lakes and came to one he calls -Kabe-Konang--not the same as Schoolcraft's Kubba Kunna, which latter -is the one S. called Lake Plantagenet, and is on Nicollet's Laplace r. -He continued up Kabekonang r., made a 5-m. portage to Laplace r. -(which is also called Naiwa, Yellow Head, and Schoolcraft's r., being -the Plantagenet fork of the Miss. r.), and ascended it to a position 1 -m. south of Assawa l., where he found the traces of a camp used four -years before by the Schoolcraft party. Next morning he was up at 4.30, -preparing for the 6-m. portage to Lake Itasca across the Big -Burning--by no means an easy thing; the ground was very bad, and the -mosquitoes as bad as they knew how to be. Brunet carried the canoe, -weighing 110-115 lbs.; Desire and Kegwedzissag had each a load of -85-90 lbs.; while poor Nicollet had a full burden in proportion to the -powers of the slight and frail body that was so soon, alas! to fail -him altogether. "I had about 35 pounds' weight unequally distributed -upon my body.... I carried my sextant on my back in a leather case -thrown over me as a knapsack; then my barometer slung over my left -shoulder; my cloak thrown over the same shoulder confined the -barometer closely against the sextant; a portfolio under the arm; a -basket in hand which contained my thermometer, chronometer, pocket -compass, artificial horizon, tape-line, &c. On the right side, a -spy-glass, powder-flask, and shot-bag; and in my hand a gun or an -umbrella according to circumstances. Such was my accoutrement." Though -Nicollet estimated his load at only 35 pounds, it was an awkward one -to manage, and more than he should have undertaken to carry through -such a place; his head swam more than once, he lost his way, got -bogged several times, and only extricated himself by scrambling along -slippery and decayed tree-trunks. However, he reached Itasca safely, -two hours after the rest, pitched his tent on the island, and -proceeded to adjust his artificial horizon. During the three days -spent in exploring the basin he made those minute and precise -observations which will forever associate his honored name with -Mississippian discovery. His approach to the spot duplicated Mr. -Schoolcraft's; but the comparison need not be pushed further--it -cannot be. Nicollet's return was by way of the main stream to Lake -Cass and thence to Leech l.--where, by the way, he had a conference -with that sagacious savage Eshkibogikoj, otherwise Gueule Platte or -Flat Mouth, with whom he took tea "out of fine china-ware" and spent -evenings "full of instruction." Of the fine work he did at Lake -Itasca, I must quote his own modest words: "The honor of having first -explored the sources of the Mississippi and introduced a knowledge of -them in physical geography, belongs to Mr. Schoolcraft and Lieutenant -Allen. I come only after these gentleman; but I may be permitted to -claim some merit for having completed what was wanting for a full -geographical account of these sources. Moreover, I am, I believe, the -first traveler who has carried with him astronomical instruments, and -put them to profitable account along the whole course of the -Mississippi, from its mouth to its sources." He might well have -claimed more than this; for, aside from all topographic and -hydrographic details, what he discovered, determined, and described -was the Mississippi itself above Lake Itasca. His praise is greatest -in the mouths of wisest censure, and for once in the history of -discovery no one withholds from modest merit and signal achievement -their just dues. - -The length of this note warns me to resist the temptation to pursue -post-Nicolletian exploration and touring--through the names of Charles -Lanman, 1846; Rev. Frederick Ayer and son, 1849; Wm. Bungo, 1865; -Julius Chambers, of the New York Herald's "Dolly Varden" expedition, -1872; James H. Baker, in official capacities, 1875-79; Edwin S. Hall, -U. S. surveyor, 1875; A. H. Siegfried, representing the Louisville -Courier-Journal's "Rob Roy" expedition, 1879; O. E. Garrison, 1880; W. -E. Neal, 1880 and 1881; Rev. J. A. Gilfillan and Prof. Cooke, in May, -1881, the same year that one X. Y. Z. exploited his fraud--to that of -J. V. Brower, 1888-94. The scandalous episode in a record otherwise -honorable to all concerned may be read in all its unsavory particulars -in the able exposes made by Mr. H. D. Harrower, entitled: Captain -Glazier and his Lake, etc., pub. Ivison, Blakeman, Taylor and Co., -N. Y., Oct., 1886, pp. 1-58, with 9 maps; by Mr. Hopewell Clarke, in -Science and Education, I. No 2, Dec. 24th, 1886, pp. 45-57, with 5 -maps; by Hon. James H. Baker, in the report entitled: The Sources of -the Mississippi. Their Discoveries, real and pretended, read before -the Minn. His. Soc., Feb. 8th, 1887, and published as Vol. VI., Pt. I, -of that society's Collections, pp. 28; and by Commissioner Brower, pp. -191-209 of his elaborate and exhaustive monograph, pub. 1893, to which -I am greatly indebted, and to which reference should be made for -further details, whether in the history or the geography of the -Mississippian sources. Nicollet is the pivotal point upon which the -whole matter turns from Morrison to Brower, 1804-1894. - -Some Additional Facts about Nicollet, not given on my foregoing pages, -may be found in Horace V. Winchell's article, Amer. Geologist, Vol. -XIII, pp. 126-128, Feb., 1894. The date of birth is there given as -July 24th, 1786 (not 1790); the name, as Joseph (not Jean) Nicolas -Nicollet; and the place of death, as Washington, D. C. (not Baltimore, -Md.); the date is the same--Sept. 11th, 1843. - - - - -CHAPTER VIII. - -ETHNOGRAPHY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.[VIII-1] - - -The first nation of Indians whom we met with in ascending the -Mississippi from St. Louis were the Sauks, who principally reside in -four villages. The first at the head of the rapids De Moyen on the W. -shore, consisting of 13 log lodges; the second on a prairie on the E. -shore, about 60 miles above; the third on the Riviere De Roche, about -three miles from the entrance; and the fourth on the river Iowa. - -They hunt on the Mississippi and its confluent streams, from the -Illinois to the river Des Iowa; and on the plains west of them, which -border the Missouri. They are so perfectly consolidated with the -Reynards[VIII-2] that they scarcely can be termed a distinct nation; but -recently there appears to be a schism between the two nations, the -latter not approving of the insolence and ill-will which has marked -the conduct of the former toward the United States on many late -occurrences. They have for many years past, under the auspices of the -Sioux, made war on the Sauteaux, Osages, and Missouries; but as -recently a peace has been made between them and the nations of the -Missouri through the influence of the United States, and by the same -means between the Sioux and Sauteaux, their principal allies, it -appears that it would by no means be a difficult matter to induce them -to make a general peace, and pay still greater attention to the -cultivation of the earth; as they now raise a considerable quantity of -corn, beans, and melons. The character that they bear with their -savage brethren is that they are much more to be dreaded for their -deceit and inclination for stratagem than for their open courage. - -The Reynards reside in three villages. The first is on the W. side of -the Mississippi, six miles above the rapids of the River De Roche; the -second is about 12 miles in the rear of the lead mines; and the third -is on Turkey river, half a league from its entrance. They are engaged -in the same wars and have the same alliances as the Sauks, with whom -they must be considered as indissoluble in war or peace. They hunt on -both sides of the Mississippi from the Iowa, below Prairie Des Chiens -to a river of that name [Upper Iowa], above said village. They raise a -great quantity of corn, beans, and melons; the former of those -articles in such quantities as to sell many hundred bushels per annum. - -The Iowas reside on the De Moyen and Iowa rivers in two villages. They -hunt on the W. side of the Mississippi, the De Moyen, and westward to -the Missouri; their wars and alliances are the same as those of the -Sauks and Reynards, under whose special protection they conceive -themselves to be. They cultivate some corn, but not so much in -proportion as the Sauks and Reynards. Their residence being on the -small streams in the rear of the Mississippi, out of the highroad of -commerce, renders them less civilized than those nations. - -The Sauks, Reynards, and Iowas, since the treaty of the two former -with the United States [in 1804], claim the land from the entrance of -the Jauflioni [see note 14, p. 11], on the W. side of the -Mississippi, up the latter river to the Des Iowa, above Prairie Des -Chiens, and westward to the Missouri; but the limits between -themselves are undefined. All the land formerly claimed by those -nations E. of the Mississippi is now ceded to the United States; but -they have reserved to themselves the privilege of hunting and residing -on it, as usual. - -By killing the celebrated Sauk chief Pontiac, the Illinois, Cahokias, -Kaskaskias, and Piorias kindled a war with the allied nations of -Sauks and Reynards, which has been the cause of the almost entire -destruction of the former nations. - -The Winebagos or Puants are a nation who reside on the rivers -Ouiscousing, De Roche, Fox, and Green Bay, in seven villages, which -are situated as follows: 1st, at the entrance of Green Bay; 2d, at the -end of Green Bay; 3d, at Wuckan [Lake Poygan], on Fox river; 4th, at -Lake Puckway; 5th, at the portage of the Ouiscousing; 6th and 7th, on -Roche river. - -Those villages are so situated that the Winebagos can embody the whole -force of their nation, at any one point of their territory, in four -days. They hunt on the Ouiscousing and Rock rivers, and E. side of the -Mississippi, from Rock river to Prairie Des Chiens; on Lake Michigan, -Black river, and in the country between Lakes Michigan, Huron, and -Superior. From the tradition amongst them, and their speaking the same -language as the Otos of the Riviere Platte, I am confident in -asserting that they are a nation who have emigrated from Mexico to -avoid the oppression of the Spaniards; and the time may be fixed at -about 11/2 centuries past, when they were taken under the protection of -the Sioux, to whom they still profess to owe faith, and at least -brotherly attention. They have formerly been at war with the nations -west of the Mississippi, but appear recently to have laid down the -hatchet. They are reputed brave, but from every circumstance their -neighbors distinguish their bravery as the ferocity of a tiger, rather -than the deliberate resolution of a man; and recently their conduct -has been such as to authorize the remark made by a chief of a -neighboring nation, that "a white man never should lie down to sleep -without precaution in their villages." - -The Menomene or Fols Avoins, as they are termed by the French, reside -in seven villages, situated as follows: 1st, at the Menomene river, 15 -leagues from Green Bay, on the north side of the lake; 2d, at Green -Bay; 3d, at Little Kakalin; 4th, at portage of Kakalin; 5th, on -Stinking Lake [Winnebago]; 6th, at the entrance of a small lake [Lac -Butte des Morts] on Fox river; and 7th, behind the Bank of the Dead -[Butte des Morts]. Their hunting-grounds are similar to those of the -Winebagos; only that, owing to the very high estimation in which they -are held both by Sioux and Chipeways, they are frequently permitted to -hunt near Raven river on the Mississippi, which may be termed the -battle-ground between those two great nations. The language which they -speak is singular, for no white man has ever yet been known to acquire -it; but this may probably be attributed to their understanding the -Algonquin, in which they and the Winebagos transact all conferences -with the whites or other nations; and the facility with which that -language is acquired is a further reason for its prevalence. - -The Fols Avoins, although a small nation, are respected by all their -neighbors for their bravery and independent spirit, and esteemed by -the whites as their friends and protectors. When in the country I -heard their chief assert in council with the Sioux and Chipeways, that -although they were reduced to few in number, yet they could say, "we -never were slaves," as they had always preferred that their women and -children should die by their own hands, to their being led into -slavery by their enemies. The boundary of their territory is -uncertain. The Sauks, Reynards, Puants, and Menomenes all reside, when -not at their villages, in lodges in the form of an ellipsis; some are -from 30 to 40 feet in length by 14 or 15 wide, and are sufficiently -large to shelter 60 people from the storm, or for 20 to reside in. -Their covering is rushes plaited into mats, and carefully tied to the -poles. In the center are the fires, immediately over which is a small -vacancy in the lodge, which in fair weather is sufficient to give vent -to the smoke; but in bad weather you must lie down on the ground to -prevent being considerably incommoded by it. - -We next come to that powerful nation the Sioux, the dread of whom is -extended over all the Savage nations, from the confluence of the -Mississippi and Missouri to Raven river on the former, and to the -Snake [Shoshone] Indians on the latter. But in those limits are many -nations whom they consider as allies, on a similar footing with the -allies of ancient Rome, _i. e._, humble dependents. But the Chipeway -nation is an exception, who have maintained a long contest with them, -owing to their country being intersected by numerous small lakes, -water-courses, impenetrable morasses, and swamps; and have hitherto -bid defiance to all the attacks of their neighbors. It is necessary to -divide the Sioux nation into the different bands, as distinguished -amongst themselves, in order to have a correct idea of them. - -Agreeably to this plan, I shall begin with the Minowa Kantong -[Mdewakantonwans] or Gens De Lac, who extend from Prairie Des Chiens -to La Prairie du Francois [vicinity of Shakopee, Chaska, etc.], 35 -miles up the St. Peters. This band is again subdivided into four -divisions, under different chiefs. The first of these most generally -reside at their village on the Upper Iowa river, above Prairie Des -Chiens, and are commanded by Wabasha, a chief whose father was -considered as the first chief of all the Sioux nation. This -subdivision hunts on both sides of the Mississippi and its confluent -streams, from Prairie Des Chiens to the riviere du Boeuff. The second -subdivision resides near the head of Lake Pepin, and hunts from the -riviere du Boeuff to near the St. Croix. Their chief's name is -Tantangamani--a very celebrated war-chief. The third subdivision -resides between the riviere au Canon and the entrance of the St. -Peters, headed by Chatewaconamani. Their principal hunting-ground is -on the St. Croix. They have a village [Kapoja] at a place called Grand -Marais [Pig's Eye lake], 15 miles below the entrance of the St. -Peters. It is situated on the east bank of the Mississippi, and -consists of 11 log huts. The fourth subdivision is situated from the -entrance of the St. Peters to the Prairie Des Francois; they are -headed by a chief called Chatamutah, but a young man, Wyaganage, has -recently taken the lead in all the councils and affairs of state of -this sub-band. They have one village, nine miles up the St. Peters, on -the N. side. This band (Minowa Kantong) are reputed the bravest of -all the Sioux, and have for years been opposed to the Fols Avoin -Sauteurs, who are reputed the bravest of all the numerous bands of -Chipeways. - -The second band of Sioux are the Washpetong [Waqpetonwan] or Gens Des -Fieulles [Feuilles], who inhabit the country from the Prairie De -Francois to near Roche Blanche, on the St. Peters. Their first chief -is Wasonquianni. They hunt on the St. Peters, also on the Mississippi, -up Rum river, and sometimes follow the buffalo on the plains. Their -subdivisions I am unacquainted with. - -The third band are the Sussitongs [Sisitonwans or Sissetons]; they -extend from the Roche Blanche [White Rock] to Lac de Gross Roche [Big -Stone or Inyantonka lake], on the river St. Peters; they are divided -into two subdivisions. The first, called the Cawrees [Kahras], are -headed by the chief called Wuckiew Nutch or Tonnere Rouge [Red -Thunder]. The second, the Sussitongs proper, are headed by Wacantoe or -Esprit Blue [Blue Spirit]. These two sub-bands hunt eastward to the -Mississippi, and up that river as far as the Riviere De Corbeau. - -The fourth great band are the Yanctongs [Ihanktonwans or Yanktons], -who are dispersed from the Montaignes [Coteau] De la Prairie, which -extends from St. Peters to the Missouri, to the De Moyen. They are -divided into two grand divisions, generally termed Yanctongs of the -North, and Yanctongs of the South [Yanktonnais and Yanktons]. The -former are headed by a chief called Muckpeanutah or Nuage Rouge [Red -Cloud]; and those of the Prairie, by Petessung. This band are never -stationary, but with the Titongs are the most erratic of all the -Sioux, sometimes to be found on the borders of the Lower Red River, -sometimes on the Missouri, and on those immense plains which are -between the two rivers. - -The fifth great band are the Titongs [Titonwans, commonly called -Tetons], who are dispersed on both sides of the Missouri; on the -north, principally from the river Chienne [Cheyenne] up; and on the -south, from the Mahas [Omahas] to the Minetares, or Gross Ventres -[Hidatsas]. They may be divided into the Titongs of the North and -South; but the immense plains over which they rove with the Yanctongs -renders it impossible to point out their place of habitation. - -The sixth, last, and smallest band of the Sioux are the Washpecoute -[Waqpekute or Wahkpakotoan], who reside generally on the lands west of -the Mississippi, between that river and the Missouri. They hunt most -generally on the head of the De Moyen. They appeared to me to be the -most stupid and inactive of all the Sioux. - -The Minowa Kantongs are the only band of Sioux who use canoes, and by -far the most civilized, being the only ones who have ever built log -huts, or cultivated any species of vegetables, and among those only a -very small quantity of corn and beans; for, although I was with them -in September or October, I never saw one kettle of either, they always -using wild oats for bread. This production nature has furnished to all -the most uncultivated nations of the N. W. continent, who may gather -in autumn a sufficiency which, when added to the productions of the -chase and the net, insures them a subsistence through all the seasons -of the year. This band is entirely armed with firearms, but is not -considered by the other bands as anything superior on that account, -especially on the plains. - -The Washpetong are a roving band; they leave the St. Peters in the -month of April, and do not return from the plains until the middle of -August. The Sussitongs of Roche Blanche have the character of being -the most evil-disposed Indians on the St. Peters. They likewise follow -the buffalo in the spring and summer months. The Sussitongs of Lac de -Gross Roche [Big Stone Lake], under Tonnere Rouge, have the character -of good hunters and brave warriors, which may principally be -attributed to their chief, Tonnere Rouge, who at the present day is -allowed by both white people and the savages of the different bands to -be (after their own chiefs) the first man in the Sioux nation. The -Yanctongs and Titongs are the most independent Indians in the world; -they follow the buffalo as chance directs, clothing themselves with -the skins, and making their lodges, bridles, and saddles of the same -materials, the flesh of the animal furnishing their food. Possessing -innumerable herds of horses, they are here this day, 500 miles off ten -days hence, and find themselves equally at home in either place, -moving with a rapidity scarcely to be imagined by the inhabitants of -the civilized world. - -The trade of the Minowa Kantongs, Washpetongs, Sussitongs, and part of -the Yanctongs, is all derived from the traders of Michilimackinac; and -the latter of those two bands supply the Yanctongs of the North and -Titongs with the small quantities of iron works [hardware] which they -require. Firearms are not in much estimation with them. The -Washpecoute trade principally with the people of Prairie Des Chiens; -but for a more particular explanation of this subject, please to refer -to the table.[VIII-3] - -_Abstract of the Nations of Indians on the Mississippi and its -confluent streams from St. Louis, Louisiana, to its source, including -Red Lake and Lower Red River._ - - TABLE LEGEND: - Column A = Warriors. - Column B = Women. - Column C = Children. - Column D = Villages. - Column E = Probable Souls. - Column F = Lodges of Roving Bands. - Column G = Fire Arms. - Column H = Primitive Language. - Column I = Traders or Bands with whom they traffic. - Column J = Annual Consumption of Merchandise. - Column K = Annual return of Peltry in packs. - - ======================================+====+=====+=====+===+=====+====+===== - | | | | | | | - Names. | | | | | | | - | | | | | | | - --------------+-----------+-----------+ | | | | | | - | | | | | | | | | - English. | Indian. | French. | A. | B. | C. | D.| E. | F. | G. - | | | | | | | | | - --------------+-----------+-----------+----+-----+-----+---+-----+----|----- - | | | | | | | | | - I. Sauks |Sawkee |Saque | 700| 750| 1400| 3| 2850| | 700 - | | | | | | | | | - | | | | | | | | | - | | | | | | | | | - II. Foxes |Ottagaumie |Reynards | 400| 500| 850| 3| 1750| | 400 - | | | | | | | | | - | | | | | | | | | - | | | | | | | | | - | | | | | | | | | - | | | | | | | | | - III. Iowas |Aiowais |Ne Perce | 300| 400| 700| 2| 1400| | 250 - | | | | | | | | | - | | | | | | | | | - | | | | | | | | | - | | | | | | | | | - IV. Winebagos |Ochangras |Puants | 450| 500| 1000| 7| 1950| | 450 - | | | | | | | | | - | | | | | | | | | - V. Menomenes |Menomene |Fols Avoin | 300| 350| 700| 7| 1350| | 300 - | | +----+-----+-----+---+---- +----+---- - | |[Total of | | | | | | | - | |the above] |2150| 2500| 4650| 22| 9300| |2100 - | | +----+-----+-----+---+-----+----+---- - | | | | | | | | | - VI. Sues |Narcotah |Sioux | | | | | | | - | | | | | | | | | - 1. People of |Minowa |Gens du | 305| 600| 1200| 3| 2105| 125| 305 - the Lakes |Kantong | Lac | | | | | | | - | | | | | | | | | - | | | | | | | | | - 2. People of |Washpetong |Gens des | 180| 350| 530| | 1060| 70| 160 - the Leaves | |Feuilles | | | | | | | - | | | | | | | | | - | | | | | | | | | - 3. Sissitons |Sussitongs |Sussitongs | 360| 700| 1100| | 2160| 155| 260 - | | | | | | | | | - | | | | | | | | | - 4. Yanktons |Yanctong |Yanctong | 900| 1600| 2700| | 4300| 270| 350 - | | | | | | | | | - | | | | | | | | | - 5. Tetons |Titong |Titong |2000| 3600| 6000| |11600| 600| 100 - | | | | | | | | | - | | | | | | | | | - 6. People of |Washpecoute|Gens des | 90| 180| 270| | 450| 50| 90 - the Leaves | [*] |Feuilles | | | | | | | - detached [*] | |tirees[*] | | | | | | | - | | +----+-----+-----+---+-----+----+---- - | |Total |3835| 6433|11800| 3|21675|1270|1270 - | |[Sioux] +----+-----+-----+---+-----+----+---- - | | | | | | | | | - VII. Chipeways|Ouchipawah |Sauteurs | | | | | | | - | | | | | | | | | - 1. Leapers | |Sauteurs | | | | | | | - | |proper | | | | | | | - | | | | | | | | | - |Of Sandy | | 45| 79| 224| | 345| 24| - |Lake[+] | | | | | | | | - | | | | | | | | | - |Of Leech | | 150| 280| 690| | 1120| 65| - |Lake[+] | | | | | | | | - | | | | | | | | | - |Of Red Lake| | 150| 260| 610| | 1020| 64| - |Lake[+] | | | | | | | | - | | | | | | | | | - 2. Of St. | | | | | | | | | - Croix and | | | | | | | | | - Chipeway r. | | | 104| 165| 420| | 689| 50| - | | | | | | | | | - 3. Of the | | | | | | | | | - other bands | | | | | | | | | - generally | | |1600| 2400| 4000| | 8000| 400| - | | | | | | | | | - | | +----+-----+-----+---+-----+----+---- - | |Total |2049| 3184| 5944| |11177| 630|2049 - | |[Chippewas]+----+-----+-----+---+-----+----+---- - | | | | | | | | | - | |[Grand |8034|12114|22394| 25|45152|1873|5414 - | |total] | | | | | | | - ==============+===========+===========+====+=====+=====+===+=====+====+==== - - ==============+===========+=================+=====+====+=================== - | | | | | - English | H. | I. | J. | K. | Species of - Names | | | | | Peltry. - | | | | | - --------------+-----------+-----------------+-----+----+------------------- - | {|Michilimackinac, | | |Deer, some bear, - I. Sauks |Sauk {|St. Louis, |15000| 600|a few otter, - | {|people of Prairie| | |beaver, racoon. - | {|des Chiens | | | - | | | | | - II. Foxes |Sauk, with | do. | 8500| 400| Deer, a few bear, - |a small | | | | with a small - |difference | | | | proportion more - |in the | | | | of furs. - |idiom | | | | - | | | | | - III. Iowas |Missouries |Michilimackinac |10000| 300| Deer, bear, otter, - | | | | | beaver, mink, - | | | | | racoon, gray fox, - | | | | | muskrat. - | | | | | - IV. Winebagos |Missouries,| do. | 9000| 200| Same as the - |or Zoto | | | | Fox's. - | | | | | - V. Menomenes |Menomene | do. | 9000| 250| Beaver, marten, - | | | | | gray fox, mink, - | | | | | muskrat, otter, - | | | | | deer, elk, &c. - | | | | | - VI. Sues | | | | | - | | | | | - 1. People of |Narcotah | do. |13500| 230| Deer, a few bear, - the Lakes | | | | | some beaver, - | | | | | racoon, &c. - | | | | | - 2. People of | do. | do. | 6000| 115| Deer, a few - the Leaves | | | | | buffalo-robes - | | | | | some beaver, - | | | | | otter, mink, &c. - | | | | | - 3. Sissitons | do. | do. |12500| 160| Deer, many - | | | | | buffalo-robe furs - | | | | | from Raven river. - | | | | | - | | | | | - 4. Yanktons | do. | do. | 8000| 130| Principally - | | | | | buffalo-robes. - | | | | | - 5. Tetons | do. |Yanktongs and | | | Buffalo-robes. - | |some Sussitongs | | | - | | | | | - 6. People of | do. |People of | 2000| 50| Deer, beaver, - the Leaves | |Prairies des | | | otter, bear - detached | |Chiens and on | | | &c. - | |head of de Moyen | | | - | | | | | - VII. Chipeways| | | | | - | | | | | - 1. Leapers | | | | | - | | | | | - Of Sandy |Algonquin |N. W. Company[++]| | | Beaver, muskrats, - Lake | | | | | otter, marten, - | | | | | black and - | | | | | silver fox &c. - | | | | | - Of Leech Lake | do. | do. | | | do. - | | | | | - | | | | | - Of Red Lake | do. | do. | | | do. - | | | | | - 2. Of St. | do. | do. | | | do. - Croix and | | | | | - Chipeway r. | | | | | - | | | | | - 3. Of the | do. |N. W. Co. |Un- | | Unknown. - other bands | |and others |cer- | | - generally | | |tain | | - ==============+===========+=================+=====+====+=================== - - ==============+====================+====================+================== - English | Best Positions | With whom | With whom at - Names | for | | peace or in - | Trading-Posts. | at war. | alliance. - --------------+--------------------+--------------------+------------------ - I. Sauks | Head of rapid |Chipeways |Reynards, Puants, - | de Moyen | |Sioux, Osage, - | | |Potowatomies, Fols - | | |Avoins, Ioways, - | | |all nations of the - | | |Missouri - | | | - II. Foxes | Giard's river, | do. | do. - | nearly opp. | | - | Prairie des | | - | Chiens, confluence | | - | of Miss. | | - | and Ouiscousing | | - | | | - III. Iowas | Rivers de Moyen | do. | do. - | and Iowa | | - | | | - IV. Winebagos | Portage de Cockalin|Since the peace |In alliance with - | (on Fox river) or |between Osages, |Sauks, Reynards, - | at Grand Calumet |Sauks and Reynards, |Sioux, Fols - | |Puants have tacitly |Avoins, &c., at - | |ceased war on the |peace with all - | |former |others - | | | - V. Menomenes | Portage des Perre, |None |In alliance with - | on Fox river | |Ottoway, Chipeway, - | | |Ochangras - | | | - VI. Sues | | | - | | | - 1. People of | Entrance St. Croix |Recently, Chipeways;| - the Lakes | |now at peace; at war|Sauks, Reynards, - | |with Assinniboins |Ioways, - | |and some nations on |Fols Avoins - | |the Missouri | - | | | - 2. People of | Little Rapids, | do. | do. - the Leaves | St. Peters | | - | | | - 3. Sissitons | Lac de Gross Roche,| do. | do. - | St. Peters | | - | | | - 4. Yanktons | | | - | | | - 5. Tetons | |Various nations of | do. - | |the Missouri | - | | | - 6. People of | Prairie des Chiens | do. | do. - the Leaves | | | - detached | | | - | | | - - VII. Chipeways| | | - | | | - 1. Leapers | | | - | | | - Of Sandy Lake | Sandy Lake |Recently, Sioux; |Fols Avoins, - | |now at peace; at war|all nations of - | |with Sauks, Foxes, |Canada - | |Iowas | - | | | - Of Leech Lake | Leech Lake | do. | do. - | | | - Of Red Lake | Red Lake | do. | do. - | | | - 2. Of St. | South side of | do. | do. - Croix and | Lake Superior | | - Chipeway r. | | | - | | | - 3. Of the | | | - other bands | | | - generally | | | - ==============+====================+====================+================== - - =============+==============================================+================= - Names | Names of Chiefs or Principal Men. | - -------------+---------------+--------------+---------------+ Remarks. - English | Indian. | French. | English. | - -------------+---------------+--------------+---------------+----------------- - I. Sauks |Washione | | | - |Pockquinike |Bras Casse |Broken Arm | - | | | | - II. Foxes |Olopier | | |First Chief - |Pecit |Petit Corbeau |Little Raven | - |Akaque |Peau Blanche |White Skin |Killed the Osage - | | | |on their way to - | | | |St. Louis; now - | | | |raising a war- - | | | |party to strike - | | | |the Sauteaux - | | | | - III. Iowas | | | | - | | | | - IV. Winebagos|New Okat | | |First chief; com- - |Sansamani | | |missioned as such - |Chenoway's Son | | |Commissioned - |Karamone | | | do. - |Du Quarre | | | do. - |Macraragah | | | do. - | | | | - V. Menomenes |Tomaw |Thomas Carron |Thomas Carron |First chief; - |Shawonoe | | |received com- - |Neckech | | |mission as such, - | | | |and flag - | | | | - | | | |Literally - | | | |translated; first - VI. Sues |Wabasha |La Feuille |The Leaf |chief of the - | | | |nation; received - | | | |a commission - | | | |and a flag - | | | | - 1. People of |Talangamane |Aile Rouge |Red Wing | do. - the Lakes |Chatewaconamani|Petit Corbeau |Little Raven |Received com- - | | | |mission and flag - |Tahamie |Orignal Leve |Rising Moose |Literally - | | | |translated - |Tatamane |Nez Corbeau |Raven Nose |Literally Wind - | | | |that Walks; - | | | |commissioned - | | | | - 2. People of |Wasonquianni |Araignee Jaune|Yellow Spider |First chief of - the Leaves | | | |the nation - |Wukunsna |Tonnerre qui |Rolling Thunder|Literally - | |Sonne | |translated - |Houho Otah |Le Noyeau |Stone of Fruit |Received a com- - | | | |mission and flag - | | | | - 3. Sissitons |Wacanto |Esprit Bleu |Blue Spirit |First chief of - | | | |his band - |Waminisabah |Killieu Noir |Black Eagle |Literally - | | | |translated - |Itoye |Gross Calumet |Big Pipe | - |Wuckiew Nutch |Tonnerre Rouge|Red Thunder |Literal - | | | |translation; - | | | |first chief of - | | | |all the Sioux - | | | | - 4. Yanktons |Petessung |Vache Blanche |White Buffalo |Literally - | | | |translated - |Muckpeanutah |Nuage Rouge |Red Cloud |Literally - | | | |translated; - |Champanage | | |first chief of - | | | |the nation - | | | | - 5. Tetons |Chantaoeteka |Coeur Mauvais |Bad Heart |Bois Brulle - |Shenouskar |Couverte |White Blanket |Okandanda - | |Blanche | | - | | | | - 6. People of |Wamaneopenutah |Coe ur du |Heart of the | - the Leaves | |Killeur Rouge |Red Eagle | - detached |Tantangashatah |Boeuf qui Joue |Playing Buffalo|Literal - | | | |translation - |Kachiwasigon |Corbeau |French Raven | do. - | | Francois | | - | | | | - VII. Chippeways | | | - | | | | - 1. Leapers | | | | - | | | | - Of Sandy Lake|Catawabata |De Breche |Broken Teeth |First chief of - | | | |his band - | | | | - Of Leech Lake|Eskibugeckoge |Geuelle Platte|Flat Mouth | do. - |Obigouitte |Chef de la |Chief of the | - | |Terre |Land | - |Oole |La Brule |The Burnt | - | | | | - Of Red Lake |Wiscoup |Le Sucre |The Sweet | do. - | | | | - 2. Of St. |Necktame |Preinier |Head Chief |Resides on Lac - Croix and | |[Premier] | |La Pluir river. - Chipeway r. | | | | - =============+===============+==============+===============+=============== - -N. B.--Wyaganage, or Fils de Pinchow, a chief of Gens du Lac, and head -of village at entrance of St. Peters, omitted; has received flag and -commission. [Z. M. P.] - -[N. B.--Total of Sacs, Foxes, Iowas, Winnebagoes, and Menomonees, and -Grand Total, embodied from the "Recapitulation," which was on separate -leaf (unpaged p. 66) of orig. ed.--E. C.] - -[*] This is merely a band of vagabonds, formed by refugees from all -other bands, which they left for some bad deed. - -[+] From actual estimate. - -[++] See my Reports on the trade of the N. W. Company. - - -The claims of limits of the Sioux nation are allowed by all their -neighbors to commence at Prairie Des Chiens, and ascend the -Mississippi on both sides to the Riviere De Corbeau; up that river to -its source; thence to the source of the St. Peters; thence to the -Montaigne De La Prairie; thence to the Missouri; down that river to -the Mahas, bearing thence N. E. to the source of the De Moyen; and -thence to the place of beginning. They also claim a large territory -south of the Missouri, but how far it extends is uncertain. The -country E. of the Mississippi, from Rum river to the Riviere De -Corbeau, is likewise in dispute between them and the Chipeways, and -has been the scene of many a sharp encounter for near 150 years past. - -From my knowledge of the Sioux nation, I do not hesitate to pronounce -them the most warlike and independent nation of Indians within the -boundaries of the United States, their every passion being subservient -to that of war; at the same time that their traders feel themselves -perfectly secure of any combination being made against themselves, it -is extremely necessary to be careful not to injure the honor or -feelings of an individual, which is certainly the principal cause of -the many broils which occur between them. But never was a trader known -to suffer in the estimation of the nation by resenting any indignity -offered him, even if it went to taking the life of the offender. Their -guttural pronunciation, high cheek bones, their visages, and distinct -manners, together with their own traditions, supported by the -testimony of neighboring nations, puts it in my mind beyond the shadow -of a doubt that they have emigrated from the N. W. point of America, -to which they have come across the narrow streight which in that -quarter divides the two continents, and are absolutely descendants of -a Tartarean tribe. - -The only personal knowledge which I have of the Chipeway nation is -restricted to the tribes on the south side of Lake Superior, on the -headwaters of the Chipeway and the St. Croix; and to those who reside -at Sandy Lake, Leech Lake, Rainy Lake, Red Lake, and the heads of the -rivers Rouge, Mississippi, and De Corbeau. They are divided, like the -Sioux, into many bands, the names of only seven of which I am -acquainted with. - -[1st.] I shall begin with those who reside on the south side of Lake -Superior, and on Lakes De Sable and Sang Sue, with the adjacent -country. They are generally denominated by the traders by the name of -Sauteuxs, but those of the headwaters of the Chipeway and St. Croix -rivers are called Fols Avoin Sauteurs. I am unacquainted with the -names of their chiefs. Those of Sandy Lake are headed by a chief -called Catawabata, or De Breche [Breche-dent]. They hunt on Mille -Lacs, Red Lake, the east bank of the Mississippi from Rum river up to -the Des Corbeau, and thence on both sides of the Mississippi to Pine -river; on that river also, up the Mississippi to Lake De Sable, and -about 100 miles above that lake. Those of Leech Lake hunt on its -streams, Lake Winipie [Winnibigoshish], Upper Red Cedar Lake, Otter -Tail Lake, head of the De Corbeau, and the upper part of Lower Red -river. Their chief is Le Gieulle [La Gueule] Platte, or Eskibugeckoge -[Flat Mouth]. - -2d. The Crees reside on Red lake, and hunt in its vicinity and on Red -river. Their first chief's name is Wiscoup, or Le Sucre. - -3d. The Nepesangs reside on Lake Nippising and Lake St. Joseph. - -4th. The Algonquins reside on the Lake of the two Mountains, and are -dispersed along the north sides of Lakes Ontario and Erie. From this -tribe the language of the Chipeways derives its name, and the whole -nation is frequently designated by that appellation. - -5th. The Otoways [Ottawas] reside on the N. W. side of Lake Michigan -and Lake Huron; and hunt between those lakes and Lake Superior. - -6th. The Iroquois Chipeways are dispersed along the banks of all the -Great Lakes, from Ontario to the Lake of the Woods. - -7th. The Muscononges reside on the waters of Lower Red river, near to -Lake Winipie [Winnipeg], and are the furthest band of Chipeways. - -The Chipeways were the great and almost natural enemies of the Sioux, -with whom they had been waging a war of extermination for near two -centuries. On my arrival among them I succeeded in inducing both sides -to agree to a peace, and no blood was shed from Sept., 1805, to Apr., -1806, when I left the country. This object had frequently been in -vain attempted by the British government, who often brought the chiefs -of the two nations together at Michilimackinac, made them presents, -etc. But the Sioux, still haughty and overbearing, spurned the -proffered calumet, and returned to renew the scenes of slaughter and -barbarity. It may then be demanded, how could a subaltern with 20 men, -and no presents worthy of notice, effect that which the governors of -Canada, with all the immense finances of the Indian department, had -attempted in vain, although they frequently and urgently recommended -it? I reply that it is true the British government requested, -recommended, and made presents--but all this at a distance; and when -the chiefs returned to their bands, their thirst for blood soon -obliterated from their recollection the lectures of humanity which -they had heard in the councils of Michilimackinac. But when I appeared -amongst them the United States had lately acquired jurisdiction over -them, and the names of the Americans as warriors had frequently been -sounded in their ears; when I spoke to them on the subject I commanded -them, in the name of their great father, to make peace; offered them -the benefit of the mediation and guarantee of the United States; and -spoke of the peace, not as a benefit to us, but a step taken to make -themselves and their children happy. This language, held up to both -nations with the assistance of the traders, was a happy coincidence of -circumstances; and (may I not add?) the assistance of the Almighty -effected that which had long been attempted in vain. But I am -perfectly convinced that, unless troops are sent up between those two -nations, with an agent whose business it would be to watch the rising -discontents and check the brooding spirit of revenge, the weapons of -death will again be raised, and the echoes of savage barbarity will -resound through the wilderness.[VIII-4] - -The Chipeways are uncommonly attached to spirituous liquors; but may -not this be owing to their traders, who find it much to their [own] -interest to encourage their [the Chipeways'] thirst after an article -which enables them [the traders] to obtain their [the Chipeways'] -peltries at so low a rate as scarcely to be denominated a -consideration, and have reduced the people near the establishments to -a degree of degradation unparalleled? - -The Algonquin language is one of the most copious and sonorous -languages of all the savage dialects in North America; and is spoken -and understood by the various nations, except the Sioux, from the Gulf -of St. Lawrence to Lake Winipie [Winnipeg]. - -This nation is much more mild and docile than the Sioux, and if we may -judge from unprejudiced observers, more cool and deliberate in action. -But the latter possess a much higher sense of the honor of their -nation: the others plan for self-preservation. The Sioux attacks with -impetuosity; the other defends with every necessary precaution. But -the superior numbers of the Sioux would have enabled them to -annihilate the Chipeways long since had it not been for the nature of -their [the Chipeways'] country, which entirely precludes the -possibility of an attack on horseback. This also gives them a decided -advantage over an enemy half armed with arrows, as the least twig of a -bush will turn the shaft of death out of its direction; whereas, the -whizzing bullet holds its course nor spends its force short of the -destined victim. Thus we generally have found that when engaged in a -prairie the Sioux came off victorious; but if in the woods, even if -not obliged to retreat, the carcasses of their slaughtered brethren -showed how dearly they purchased the victory. - -The Sioux are bounded on the N. E. and N. by these two powerful -nations, the Chipeways and Knisteneaux [Crees], whose manners, -strength, and boundaries are ably described by Sir Alexander McKenzie. -The Assinniboins, or Stone Sioux, who border the Chipeways on the N. -W. and W., are a revolted band of the Sioux, who have maintained war -with the parent nation for about a century, and have rendered -themselves their most violent enemies. They extend from the Red river -W. nearly to the Rocky Mountains, and are computed at 1,500 warriors. -They reside on the plains, and follow the buffalo; consequently they -have very little occasion for traders or European productions. - -FOOTNOTES: - -[VIII-1] As explained in note 1, p. 287, this chapter is that part of -Doc. No. 18 which relates to the Indians, running pp. 56-66 and -folder, without break in the text of p. 56 from the geographical -matter. But its separation seems desirable, and I accordingly make a -chapter for its accommodation. There is no change in the sequence of -the matter. - -[VIII-2] The Sacs and Foxes have a curious history, perhaps not exactly -paralleled by that of any other tribes whatever. The names are linked -inseparably from the earliest times to the present day. Each has -always been to the other what neither of them has ever been to any -other Indians or to any whites--friend. The entire composure with -which we have been able to speak of Sacs and Foxes in our day and -generation is the reverse of the frame of mind which many persons now -living can recall as having been once theirs, before the final -subjugation of these capricious, turbulent, and enterprising tribes in -trans-Mississippian territory. They are Algonquian Indians who can be -traced in blood from Lake Ontario westward, along the gauntlet they -ran from Ontarian Canada to the final burying-grounds of their -hatchets in Iowa, Kansas, and the Indian Territory. They fought -everybody in their way--French, English, and American in turn, as well -as perhaps every Indian tribe they encountered. They were alternately -friends and foes of each of the two principal nations whose lands they -overran--their Algonquian relations the Chippewas, and their natural -enemies the Sioux, thus at times turning the balance of power between -these two hereditary foes. They inhabited at times many places along -the Great Lakes and westward, and the present names of not a few are -directly traceable to such occupancy. They were specially identified -with the histories of Wisconsin, Minnesota, and Illinois for more than -a hundred years. Carver speaks of their villages on the Wisconsin r. -in 1766, after they had been expelled from the Green Bay and Fox River -region. They appear to have been driven from the St. Croix by the -decisive battle at the Falls, in which they were defeated by the -Chippewas under Waboji (d. 1793). Writing of 1832, Schoolcraft speaks -of their recent residences on Rock r., and their confinement west of -the Mississippi by the then latest tragic act in their history. This -was the decisive battle of the Bad Axe in 1832: see note 51, p. 45. -The Foxes are located on the old maps under some form of their -Chippewan name Otagami; they were also called Miskwakis or Red Earths; -their F. name Reynard, which we translate Fox, and sometimes Dog or -Wolf, was an opprobrious nickname or nom de guerre. The Indian name -Osagi, Osawki, Osaukee, Sauk, Sac, Sacque, etc., is by some said to -signify the erratic propensities of the tribe which bears it, meaning -migrants, or those who went out of the land: for a probably better -definition, see note 16, p. 101. The survivors of both tribes -scarcely number 1,000. - -Le Bras Casse, or Broken Arm, was a Sac chief whom Pike names -Pockquinike in his folding Table of the Foxes and other Indians. He -was a noted character, whose name turns up in various published -accounts. He figures, for example, in the Relation, etc., of -Perreault, on the scene of the assassination of Mr. Kay at Sandy Lake, -May 2d, 1785, by Le Cousin and his mother, both of whom knifed their -victim. Le Cousin was promptly stabbed by Feebyain or Le Petit Mort, a -friend of Kay's, and Brasse Casse (as Mr. Schoolcraft spells his name) -took Kay in hand to cure him; but the wound proved fatal Aug. 26th, -1785. - -[VIII-3] Folding Table F of the orig. ed., facing p. 66 of the App. to -Pt. 1, with a part of it, which the printer could not get on the -sheet, overrun as p. 66 of the main text, headed "Recapitulation." In -the present ed. this overrun piece is drawn into the table, which, as -now printed, can be set unbroken on two pages facing each other. - -For the modern scientific classification of the Siouan linguistic -family in general, and of the Dakotas or Sioux in particular, see my -ed. of Lewis and Clark, 1893, pp. 94-101, and pp. 128-130. As that -work is or should be in the hands of all good Americans, the subject -need not be traversed here. Taking that article as a modern norm or -standard of comparison, it may be useful to give here the -classification and nomenclature of the Sioux which was adopted by -Major Long, who was next in the field after Pike with an account of -these Indians, Keating, I. 1824, chap. viii., p. 376 _seq._ The -Dacota, he says, means the allied, who in their external relations -style themselves Ochente Shakoan, which signifies the nation of seven -(council-) fires, represented by the following septenary division -which once prevailed: 1. _Mende Wahkantoan_, or People of the Spirit -lake. 2. _Wahkpatoan_, or People of the Leaves. 3. _Sisitoan_, or Mia -Kechakesa. 4. _Yanktoanan_, or People of the Ferns. 5. _Yanktoan_, or -People descended from Ferns. 6. _Titoan_ , or Braggers. 7. -_Wahkpakotoan_, or People that shoot at Leaves. Of these Long has it -that No. 1 was the Gens du Lac of the French, and Nos. 2-6 were all -included in the Gens du Large of the F. traders, _i. e._, People "at -large," roving bands of prairie Sioux. But the French had other terms, -especially Gens des Feuilles for No. 2, and Gens des Feuilles Tirees -for No. 7. Comparing Long with Pike, we find: Long's No. 1=Pike's No. -1. Long's No. 2=Pike's No. 2. Long's No. 3=Pike's No. 3. Long's Nos. 4 -and 5=Pike's No. 4, with his two divisions. Long's No. 6=Pike's No. 5. -Long's No. 7=Pike's No. 6. Such a concordance as this deserves a -red-letter mark, considering how seldom authors have agreed upon -Sioux; and Pike is entitled to the credit of establishing the seven -main tribes. In his census, to be compared with Pike's, Long gives -total lodges, 2,330; warriors, 7,055; souls, 28,100: see Pike's -Abstract, on pp. 346, 347. These are distributed by Long as follows: -No. 1, 160--305--1,500. No. 2, 120--240--900. No. 3, 130--260--1,000; -to which add for the Kahra (Pike's Cawree) band of Sissetons, -160--450--1,500. No. 4, 460--1,300--5,200. No. 5, 200--500--2,000. No. -6, 900--3,600--14,440. No. 7, 100--200--800. To which add for various -stragglers 100--200--800, making total of lodges, warriors, and souls, -as above. Long estimated the revolted Stone Sioux, Haha, or -Assiniboines at 3,000--7,000--28,100, or almost precisely the same as -all the other Sioux together. Long's interesting particulars of the 14 -bands which he recognizes, by dividing his No. 1 into seven and -separating the Kahras from the other Sissetons, may be thus -summarized: No. 1. _Mende-Wahkantoan_: (1) Keoxa; pop. 40--70--400; -chief Wapasha, Wabasha, La Feuille or Leaf; two villages, one on Iowa -r., other near Lake Pepin; hunt both sides of the Miss. r. near the -Chippewa r. and its tributaries. Keoxa means "relationship -overlooked"; _i. e._, they inbreed closer than other Sioux. (2) -Eanbosandata, so called from the vertical rock on Cannon r.; pop. -10--25--100; chief Shakea; two small villages, one on the Miss. r., -other on Cannon r.; hunt on the headwaters of the latter. (3) Kapoja, -signifying light or active; one village (at the Grand Marais or Pig's -Eye marsh near St. Paul); pop. 30--70--300; chief, the celebrated -Chetanwakoamene, Petit Corbeau, or little Raven, who visited -Washington in July, 1824; hunt on St. Croix r. (4) Oanoska, meaning -great avenue; chief Wamendetanka or War Eagle, formerly dependent on -Petit Corbeau; one village (Black Dog's) on the St. Peter, S. side, -near the mouth; pop. 30--40--200; hunt on the Miss. r. above Falls of -St. Anthony. (5) Tetankatane, meaning Old Village; the oldest one -among the Dakotas; 400 lodges there when Wapasha's father ruled the -nation; Wapasha formerly lived there, but moved away with most of his -warriors; those that stayed chose a new leader from amongst -themselves, whose son Takopepeshene, the Dauntless, now rules; pop. -10--30--150; village on the St. Peter, 3 m. above its mouth; hunt on -this and Miss. r. (6) Taoapa; one village on the St. Peter; pop. -30--60--300; chief Shakpa, whose name means Six, is third in the -nation, ranking next after La Feuille and Petit Corbeau; hunt between -the Miss. and St. Peter. (7) Weakaote, a small band dependent on (6); -pop. 10--10--50. No. 2. _Wahkpatoan_, or Gens des Feuilles; name said -to mean "people that live beyond those that shoot at leaves," _i. e._, -higher up the river than the Wahkpakatoan; hunt near Otter Tail Lake; -chief Nunpakea, meaning "twice flying." No. 3. _Miakechesa_ or -Sisitoan: (_a_) Sissetons proper; no fixed abode; chief rendezvous, -Blue Earth r.; hunt buffalo over to the Missouri; live in skin tepees; -their chief Wahkanto, or Blue Spirit, by hereditary right. (_b_) Kahra -or Wild Rice Sissetons; no fixed abode; Lake Traverse and Red r.; skin -lodges; follow chief Tantankanaje, Standing Buffalo, hereditary, but -also a warrior. No. 4. _Yanktoanan_, the Fern Leaves, an important -tribe, pop. one-fifth of the whole nation; no fixed residence; skin -lodges; hunt from Red r. to the Missouri; trade at Lake Travers, Big -Stone l., and the Shienne r.; principal chief, Wanotan, the Charger. -No. 5. _Yanktoan_, descended from the Fern Leaves; live and trade on -the Missouri; hunt on E. side of that river; chief Tatanka Yuteshane, -meaning one who eats no buffalo. No. 6. Tetoans, Braggers; by far the -most numerous tribe of the Sioux, by some said to compose one-half of -the nation; rove between St. Peters and the Missouri; trade on both -rivers; live in skin lodges; hostile, great boasters; their chief -Chantapeta, or Heart of Fire, a powerful warrior. No. 7. -_Wahkpakotoan_, a name rendered by Long "'Shooters at Leaves,' which -they mistake for deer." No fixed abode; rove near head of the Cannon -and Blue Earth rivers; skin lodges; their last leader Shakeska, White -Nails, who died in 1822; he rose to his station by his military -ability. They have a regular hereditary chief Wiahuga, the Raven, -acknowledged as such by the Indian Agent; but he became disgusted with -the behavior of his tribe, and withdrew to Wapasha's. Long agrees with -Pike in giving this band a bad name as a lawless set. Pike says they -were mere vagabonds, and refugees from other tribes on account of -misdeeds. These Sioux were also called Gens des Feuilles Tirees and -Leaf Shooters. In the Lewis and Clark schedule they formed the Ninth -tribe of Sioux, named Wahpatoota, or Leaf Beds. A queer form of the -name is 8apik8ti=Ouapikouti, on one of Joliet's maps. - -The earliest form of the word _Sioux_ is believed to be Naduesiu, -derived from Jean Nicolet's journey of 1634-35, as written about five -years later in the Jesuit Relations, by Father Le Jeune. The form -Nadouessis, pl., is used by Raymbault and Jogues, who were at the -Sault Ste. Marie in 1641 (Jes. Rel. of 1642). Nadouesiouek is given in -a Relation of 1656, Nadouechiouec, 1660; and soon also Nadouesseronons, -Nadouesserons, etc. - -An excellent article on the Sioux, entitled Dakota Land and Dakota -Life, by Rev. E. D. Neill, occupies pp. 254-294 of the 2d ed. 1872, of -Minn. Hist. Soc. Coll., originally published in 1853. - -[VIII-4] The punctuation of the last two sentences in the original left -Pike's meaning obscure. It was by no means evident whether the -language which he had used to the Indians held up to their minds a -happy coincidence of circumstances which the traders helped to bring -about before the Almighty interfered at all, or whether the happy -coincidence of circumstances consisted in the endorsement of his -language both by the traders and the Almighty. On the whole, I am -inclined to think he meant that the speeches he made to the Indians -whom he addressed directly were repeated and backed up by the traders -among those Indians to whom he had no access; and that this was the -happy coincidence of circumstances which enabled the Almighty to -finish the business. But after all I am not quite confident that I -catch his meaning. If I do, I must say that he is not very -complimentary to the Deity, whose assistance he suspects may have been -necessary to effect that which the traders and himself jointly -attempted. For it seems from his further reflections on the subject -that he thought God possibly equal to burying the hatchet between the -Sioux and Chippewas, but hardly able to keep the peace without the -assistance of the military and of a special agent. However, Pike was -nothing if not a good soldier, and he had Napoleonic authority for -supposing that God would always be found on the side of the heaviest -artillery. - - - - -CHAPTER IX. - -VOCABULARY OF MISSISSIPPIAN PLACE-NAMES.[IX-1] - - - _English._ _French._ _Indian._ - - Natural Meadow Prairie - Buffalo river Riviere au Boeuf - Salt river Riviere au Sel Oahaha - River of Means Riviere de Moyen - Iowa river Riviere de Ayoua - Stony, or Rock river Riviere des Rochers - Turkey river Riviere au Dindon - Dog's meadow Prairie Des Chien - Ouiscousing - Raven river Riviere de Corbeau - Yellow river Riviere Jaune - Root river Riviere aux Racines - River of Embarrassments Riviere d'Embarras - Clear Water river Riviere l'Eau Clair - River of the Prairie of Riviere de la Prairie de - Cross Crosse - Chipeway river Riviere Sauteaux Ouchipewa Sippi - The Mountain which La Montaigne qui - soaks in the Water trempe dans l'Eau - River of do Riviere de do - Sandy point Point de Sable - The Barn La Grange - Cannon River Riviere a Canon - River St. Peters Riviere St. Pierre - Falls of St. Anthony Shute de St. Antoine - Rum river Prairie l'Eau de Vie - Leaf river Riviere aux Feuilles - Sauk river Riviere aux Saukes - Big Falls Grand rapid - Lower Red Cedar lake Le Bas Lac du Cedre Rouge - Raven island Isle de Corbeau - Pine river Riviere au Pin - Leech lake Lac Sang Sue - Sandy lake Lac de Sable - Pike river Riviere du Brochet - Bottom of the lake Fond du Lac - Swan river Riviere a Cigue - Falls of Packegamaw Petite Shute Packegamaw - Upper Red Cedar lake Le Haut Lac de Cedre Rouge - Red lake Lac Rouge - Green bay La Baye Verde - St. Ignatius St. Ignace - Oak Point Point au Chene - Meno Cockien - The Turn La Detour - Island of the Turn Isle du Detour - Burnt island Isle Brule - Potowatomies island Isle des Poux - Little Streight Petit Detroit - Port of the Dead Port des Morts - Vermillion island Isle Vermilion - Red river Riviere Rouge - Stinking rapid Puant Rapid - Wolf river Riviere des Loups - Hillock of the dead Butte des Morts - Lac Puckway - Muddy lake Lac Vaseux - -FOOTNOTE: - -[IX-1] This article formed Doc. No. 2, pp. 52, 53 of the App. to _Part -III._ of the orig. ed., entitled "Explanatory Table of Names of -Places, Persons, and Things, made use of in this Volume." But there is -not a name of any person in it, and not a name of anything in it that -does not belong to Part I., _i. e._, to the Mississippi voyage alone. -Having thus been obviously out of place in Part III., it is now -brought where it belongs, and a new chapter made for it, with a new -head, which more accurately indicates what it is. But even as a -vocabulary of Mississippian place-names, it is a mere fragment, -neither the plan nor scope of which is evident, as the names occur -neither in alphabetical nor any other recognizable order, and include -only a very small fraction of those which Pike uses in Part I. of his -book. He may have intended to make something of it which should -justify the title he gave it, and left it out of Part I. for that -reason; but nothing more came of it, and it was finally bundled into -Part III. The lists include a few terms which do not occur elsewhere -in the work, as for example, "River of Means"; but are chiefly curious -as an evidence of the difficulty our author found in spelling proper -names twice alike. - - - - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Expeditions of Zebulon Montgomery -Pike, Volume I (of 3), by Elliott Coues - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EXPEDITIONS OF ZEBULON PIKE, VOL I *** - -***** This file should be named 43774.txt or 43774.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/4/3/7/7/43774/ - -Produced by Melissa McDaniel, Charlie Howard, Rachael -Schultz and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at -http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images -generously made available by The Internet Archive) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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