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<div>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 43751 ***</div>
<h1>The Project Gutenberg eBook, Early Western Travels 1748-1846, Volume XIV,
by Edwin James, Edited by Reuben Gold Thwaites</h1>
<table border="0" style="background-color: #ccccff;margin: 0 auto;" cellpadding="10">
<tr>
<td valign="top">
Note:
</td>
<td>
Images of the original pages are available through
Internet Archive/American Libraries. See
<a href="http://archive.org/details/earlywesterntrav14thwa">
http://archive.org/details/earlywesterntrav14thwa</a>
</td>
</tr>
</table>
<p> </p>
<div class="transnote">
<p>TRANSCRIBER'S NOTE——</p>
<p>This ebook reproduces the 1905 Arthur H. Clark Company
Edition, which is itself based on an 1823 London edition
of Part I of James's Account of S. H. Long's Expedition.
The 1905 edition incorporated portions from several
differing published editions of the account, plus a map
which does not appear to have been directly related to
James's account. The original pagination of the 1823
London edition was included in the 1905 edition, and is
shown in this ebook by numbers enclosed in brackets,
e.g. {135}.</p>
<p>Further details of this transcription are located at the
<a href="#TRANSCRIBERS_ENDNOTE">end</a> of this e-book.</p>
</div>
<hr class="full" />
<p> </p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
<img id="coverpage" src="images/cover.jpg" width="600" height="800"
alt="" title="cover page" />
</div>
<h1>Early Western Travels<br />
1748-1846<br />
Volume XIV<br />
</h1>
<div class="front">
<div class="fsize1">Early Western Travels</div>
<div class="fsize1">1748-1846</div>
<p>A Series of Annotated Reprints of some of the best</p>
<p>and rarest contemporary volumes of travel, descriptive</p>
<p>of the Aborigines and Social and</p>
<p>Economic Conditions in the Middle</p>
<p>and Far West, during the Period</p>
<p>of Early American Settlement</p>
<p><br /><br />
<small>Edited with Notes, Introductions, Index, etc., by</small></p>
<div class="fsize2">Reuben Gold Thwaites, LL.D.</div>
<p>Editor of "The Jesuit Relations and Allied Documents," "Original
Journals of the Lewis and Clark Expedition," "Hennepin's
New Discovery," etc.</p>
<p style="font-size:1.5em;margin-bottom:0.1em;">Volume XIV</p>
<p style="font-size:1.1em;">
Part I of James's Account of S. H. Long's Expedition,<br />
1819-1820</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 125px;">
<img src="images/i003.jpg" width="125" height="151"
alt="" title="Arthur H. Clark Company trademark emblem." />
</div>
<p>Cleveland, Ohio</p>
<p>The Arthur H. Clark Company</p>
<p>1905</p>
</div>
<div class="front">
<p><span class="smcap">Copyright 1905, by</span></p>
<p>THE ARTHUR H. CLARK COMPANY</p>
<p>ALL RIGHTS RESERVED<br /><br /><br /><br /></p>
<p>The Lakeside Press</p>
<p>R. R. DONNELLEY & SONS COMPANY</p>
<p>CHICAGO</p>
</div>
<h2 title="Contents of Volume XIV">
<a name="CONTENTS_OF_VOLUME_XIV" id="CONTENTS_OF_VOLUME_XIV"></a>
CONTENTS OF VOLUME XIV</h2>
<div class="contents">
<table summary="contents">
<tr>
<td class="left0"><a href="#PREFACE_TO_VOLUMES_XIV-XVII"><span class="smcap">Preface to Volumes
XIV-XVII.</span> <i>The Editor</i></a></td>
<td class="right">9</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="left0"><span class="smcap">
Account of an Expedition from Pittsburgh to the Rocky Mountains,
performed in the Years 1819, 1820.</span> By order of the Hon. J. C.
Calhoun, Secretary of War, under the command of Maj. S. H. Long,
of the U. S. Top. Engineers. Compiled from the Notes of Major
Long, Mr. T. Say, and other Gentlemen of the Party. [Part I, being
chapters i-x of Volume I of the London edition, 1823.] <i>Edwin
James</i>, Botanist and Geologist to the Expedition</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="left1"><a href="#Dedication">Dedication</a></td>
<td class="right">33</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="left1"><a href="#PRELIMINARY_NOTICE">Preliminary Notice [from Philadelphia edition, 1823]</a></td>
<td class="right">35</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="left1">Text:</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="left2"><a href="#CHAPTER_I">CHAPTER I</a>—Departure from Pittsburgh. North-western slope of Alleghany Mountains. Rapids of the Ohio</td>
<td class="right">39</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="left2"><a href="#Chapter_II">CHAPTER II</a>—The Ohio below the Rapids at Louisville.
Ascent of the Mississippi from the mouth of the Ohio to St. Louis</td>
<td class="right">77</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="left2"><a href="#Chapter_III">CHAPTER III</a>—Tumuli and Indian graves about St. Louis, and on the Merameg. Mouth of the Missouri. Charboniere. Journey by land from St. Charles to Loutre Island</td>
<td class="right">108</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="left2"><a href="#Chapter_IV">CHAPTER IV</a>—Settlement of Cote Sans Dessein. Mouths of the Osage. Manito Rocks. Village of Franklin</td>
<td class="right">136</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="left2"><a href="#Chapter_V">CHAPTER V</a>—Death of Dr. Baldwin. Charaton River, and Settlement. Pedestrian Journey from Franklin to Fort Osage</td>
<td class="right">153</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="left2"><a href="#Chapter_VI">CHAPTER VI</a>—Mouth of the Konzas. Arrival at Wolf River. Journey by land from Fort Osage to the Village of the Konzas</td>
<td class="right">171</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="left2"><a href="#Chapter_VII">CHAPTER VII</a>—Further Account of the Konza Nation. Robbery of Mr. Say's Detachment by a War-party of Pawnees. Arrival at the Platte</td>
<td class="right">199</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="left2"><a href="#Chapter_VIII">CHAPTER VIII</a>—Winter Cantonment near Council Bluff. Councils with the Otoes, Missouries, Ioways, Pawnees, &c.</td>
<td class="right">221</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="left2"><a href="#Chapter_IX">CHAPTER IX</a>—Animals. Sioux and Omawhaw Indians. Winter Residence at Engineer Cantonment</td>
<td class="right">250</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="left2"><a href="#CHAPTER_X">CHAPTER X</a>—Account of the Omawhaws. Their Manners, and Customs, and Religious Rites. Historical Notices of Black Bird, Late Principal Chief</td>
<td class="right">288</td></tr>
</table></div>
<h2 title="Illustrations to Volume XIV">
<a name="ILLUSTRATIONS_TO_VOLUME_XIV"
id="ILLUSTRATIONS_TO_VOLUME_XIV"></a>
ILLUSTRATIONS TO VOLUME XIV</h2>
<div class="contents">
<table summary="illustrations">
<tr>
<td class="left0">"<a href="#Map_of_the_Country_drained">Map of the Country drained by the Mississippi</a>"</td>
<td class="right">30</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="left0"><a href="#Facsimile_of_title-page_to_Volume_I">Facsimile of title-page to Volume I of James's <cite>Account</cite></a></td>
<td class="right">31</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="left0">"<a href="#Indian_Record_of_a_Battle">Indian Record of a Battle between the Pawnees and the Konzas—a Fac-Simile of a Delineation upon a Bison Robe</a>"</td>
<td class="right">202</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="left0">"<a href="#War_Dance_in_the_interior">War Dance in the interior of a Konza Lodge</a>"</td>
<td class="right">208</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="left0">"<a href="#Oto_Council">Oto Council</a>"</td>
<td class="right">238</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="left0">"<a href="#Pawnee_Council">Pawnee Council</a>"</td>
<td class="right">246</td></tr>
</table></div>
<h2 title="Preface to Volumes XIV-XVII">
<a name="PREFACE_TO_VOLUMES_XIV-XVII"
id="PREFACE_TO_VOLUMES_XIV-XVII"></a>PREFACE TO VOLUMES XIV-XVII</h2>
<p class="pgalone"><span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_9"
id="Page_9"></a>[pg009]</span></p>
<p class="toclink"><a href="#CONTENTS_OF_VOLUME_XIV">toc</a></p>
<p>The present volume and the three which succeed it
are devoted to a reprint of Edwin James's <cite>Account of an
Expedition from Pittsburgh to the Rocky Mountains, performed
in the Years 1819, 1820, . . . under the Command
of Maj. S. H. Long</cite>. This exploration was the outcome,
and almost the only valuable result, of the ill-starred
project popularly known at the time as the Yellowstone
expedition, which had been designed to establish military
posts on the upper Missouri for the several purposes of
protecting the growing fur-trade, controlling the Indian
tribes, and lessening the influence which British trading
companies were believed to exert upon them.<a name="FNanchor_1"
id="FNanchor_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> The
movement gave rise to great expectations, for interest in
our Western territories was already keen; it was confidently
hoped that an era of rapid development was about
to open in the trans-Mississippi region, under government
initiative and protection.<a name="FNanchor_2" id="FNanchor_2"></a>
<a href="#Footnote_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a></p>
<p>As originally planned, the scientific observations of the
expedition were to be conducted by a company of specialists
under the command of Major Long, to whom detailed instructions
were issued by Secretary of War Calhoun.<a name="FNanchor_3"
id="FNanchor_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a>
The military branch, under Colonel Henry<span class="xxpgn"><a
name="Page_10" id="Page_10"></a>[pg010]</span> Atkinson,<a
name="FNanchor_4" id="FNanchor_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_4"
class="fnanchor">[4]</a> was set in motion in the autumn of 1818,
and a considerable body of troops passed the following winter near
the present site of Leavenworth, Kansas. In the spring of 1819,
however, defects in the plans began to hamper the execution of the
enterprise. Those were the early days of steam navigation, and the
waters of the Missouri had not yet been stirred by paddle-wheels.
Prudence counselled that the success of the movement should
not be staked on the behavior of steamboats in untried waters.
Nevertheless, the authorities decided against the old-fashioned
keel-boats recommended by Atkinson;<a name="FNanchor_5"
id="FNanchor_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a>
in arranging for transportation, a further blunder was made in
engaging a contractor without competition or adequate securities.
The service proved entirely inefficient, and it was not until late
in September of 1819 that the troops were concentrated at Council
Bluffs, where, perforce, a halt was made for the winter.</p>
<p>The scientific members of the expedition had meanwhile
assembled at Pittsburg, and on May 5, 1819, they began
the descent of the Ohio in the steamer "Western
Engineer."<a name="FNanchor_6" id="FNanchor_6"></a><a href="#Footnote_6" class="fnanchor">[6]</a> Stephen Harriman Long, the chief of this
party, was born at Hopkinton, New Hampshire, in 1764.
After being graduated at Dartmouth (1809), and teaching
<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11"></a>[pg011]</span>
for a few years, he entered the army (1814) as lieutenant
in the corps of engineers. Until 1816 he was assistant
professor of mathematics at West Point, being then transferred
to the topographical engineers, with the brevet rank
of major. Previous to the exploration which forms the
subject of our text, he travelled extensively in the South-west,
between the Arkansas and Red rivers, and his journals,
although never published, ranked among the most
useful sources of information for that region. Major
Long's associates in the present undertaking were Major
John Biddle, journalist of the party; Dr. William Baldwin,
physician and botanist; Dr. Thomas Say, zoologist;
Augustus Edward Jessup, geologist; T. R. Peale, assistant
naturalist; Samuel Seymour, painter; and Lieutenant
James D. Graham and Cadet William H. Swift, assistant
topographers.<a name="FNanchor_7" id="FNanchor_7"></a>
<a href="#Footnote_7" class="fnanchor">[7]</a></p>
<p>The "Western Engineer" arrived at St. Louis on the
ninth of June, and proceeded again on the twenty-first,
after the party had completed certain arrangements for
their journey and examined the Indian mounds in the
vicinity. The voyage up the Missouri was begun on the
twenty-second, being marked by no more important incident
than an occasional halt to repair the machinery or clean
the boiler. Notwithstanding it drew but nineteen inches
of water, the boat grounded twice on sand-bars within four
miles of the Mississippi; but on the whole, it worked fairly
well and gave comparatively little annoyance. At St.
Charles, on June 27, the party was joined by Benjamin
O'Fallon, agent for Indian affairs, and John Dougherty,
his interpreter. Here Messrs. Say, Jessup, Peale, and
Seymour left the boat and made a land excursion, rejoining<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12"></a>[pg012]</span>
the party at Loutre Island. At Franklin, then the uppermost
town of any importance on the Missouri, a halt of
several days was made; here Dr. Baldwin, who had been
ill since the departure from Pittsburg, was left behind, his
death occurring on the thirty-first of August. From Franklin
a party under Dr. Say proceeded by land to Fort Osage,
where they arrived on July 24, a week in advance of the
boat. On the sixth of August Dr. Say left Fort Osage in
command of a party bound for the principal village of the
Kansa Indians, then situated near the site of the present
village of Manhattan, Kansas. Arriving there on the
twentieth, they were hospitably entertained for four days;
but after their departure were set upon and robbed by a
war party of Pawnee braves, and consequently forced to
abandon further progress by land and return to the boat.</p>
<p>Meantime the steamer had left Fort Osage on August
10, and eight days later arrived at Cow Island, near Leavenworth,
where a portion of the troops of the Yellowstone
expedition had wintered. Here another week was spent
in a council with the Kansa Indians. On the twenty-ninth
of August, Say and his companions arrived at Cow
Island, four days after the departure of the boat; both
Say and Jessup were ill, and the party had decided to return
to the river at that point instead of attempting the
longer journey to Council Bluffs, the appointed rendezvous.
The others succeeded in overtaking the
steamer, the invalids remaining for a time at Cow Island.</p>
<p>Near the quarters of the troops at Council Bluffs (Camp
Missouri), Long's party also halted, on September 17,
and prepared a winter camp, named "Engineer Cantonment."
Here Long left his companions, and, accompanied
by Jessup, returned to the East for the winter. His colleagues<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13"></a>[pg013]</span>
at the cantonment pursued such studies as were
possible in the winter season, collecting much valuable
information relative to the neighboring tribes of Pawnee,
Oto, Iowa, Missouri, and Omaha Indians, and making
short excursions which gave them some knowledge of the
geology and natural history of the vicinity.</p>
<p>Long returned to the West in the spring of 1820. Leaving
St. Louis on April 24, he crossed the intervening wilderness
to Council Bluffs by land, arriving at Engineer
Cantonment on May 28. With him came Captain J. R.
Bell, to replace Major Biddle, also the author of the
account herewith reprinted; the latter assumed the duties
which had originally been assigned to Baldwin and Jessup.
Edwin James was born at Weybridge, Vermont, in 1797,
and after graduation at Middlebury College (1816) pursued
the study of medicine under a brother, Daniel James,
who was a practising physician of Albany, New York.
At the same time he prosecuted studies in botany and
geology under Dr. John Torrey and Professor Amos
Eaton, joining the expedition in 1820 fresh from the tutelage
of these men.</p>
<p>Long was also the bearer of fresh instructions. Congress,
annoyed at the first season's operations, the results
of which had been out of all proportion to the heavy expenditures,
had refused further appropriations, and the
progress of the Yellowstone expedition was necessarily
arrested. Long's party, however, with the exception of
Lieutenant Graham, who with the steamboat was assigned
to special duty on the Missouri and Mississippi, was to
ascend the Platte to its source, and return to the Mississippi
by way of the Arkansas and the Red.</p>
<p>The company as now organized, in addition to the scientific<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14"></a>[pg014]</span>
gentlemen already named, included Dougherty
and four other men to serve as interpreters, baggage
handlers, and the like, and a detachment of seven soldiers
from the troops at Camp Missouri—a total of twenty.
Leaving the Missouri on June 6, the expedition visited
the Pawnee villages on Loup River, where two Frenchmen
were engaged as guides and interpreters. An effort was
made to introduce the process of vaccination among the
Pawnee, who, in common with other tribes, had suffered
heavily from the ravages of smallpox; but the vaccine
having been thoroughly drenched by the wreck of one of
the keel-boats of the Yellowstone expedition, the attempt
was unsuccessful. After two days at the villages, progress
was resumed on the thirteenth, and from this time
until the mountains were reached, little was encountered
to excite interest, save herds of buffalo and the mirage.
From near Grand Island the company followed the north
bank of the Platte, until they reached the forks, where they
crossed to the south bank of the South Fork.</p>
<p>On the thirtieth the Rockies were first sighted—their
route along the Platte having borne directly towards the
mountain which has since received Long's name, and
which was, at first, mistaken for Pike's Peak. The fourth
of July, which they had hoped to celebrate in the mountains,
found them still at some distance from them; on the
fifth they encamped upon the site of the present city of
Denver, and the following day directly in front of the
chasm through which issues the South Platte. Here two
days were passed while James and Peale, with two companions,
sought to cross the first range and gain the valley
of the Platte beyond; but after surmounting several ridges,
each of which appeared to be the summit, only to find<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15"></a>[pg015]</span>
higher land beyond, the undertaking was abandoned.
They did reach, however, an elevated point from which
they could distinguish the two forks of the South Platte.</p>
<p>A few days later, members of the expedition performed
a more memorable exploit. On the twelfth of July, the
camp then being a few miles south of the site of Colorado
Springs, James set out with two men, and two days later
succeeded in reaching the summit of Pike's Peak, being, so
far as history records, the first to accomplish this feat. In
honor of the achievement, Major Long christened the
mountain James's Peak; but by force of local usage, the
present name supplanted this appropriate designation.
Lieutenant Swift had meanwhile quite accurately calculated
the height of the peak above the basal plains, although
an erroneous estimate of the elevation of the latter
produced an error of nearly three thousand feet in the
determination for the elevation of the summit above sea
level. Here, as elsewhere, the observations for longitude
and latitude involved a considerable error.</p>
<p>On the sixteenth the party again broke camp, and moved
southwest to the Arkansas, which they reached twelve or
fifteen miles above the present city of Pueblo. The following
day Captain Bell, Dr. James, and two of the men
ascended the river to the site of Cañon City, at the entrance
of Royal Gorge, where they turned back, again baffled by
what seemed to them impassable barriers.</p>
<p>The expedition began the descent of the Arkansas on
the nineteenth. After two days' march a camp was made
a few miles above the future site of La Junta, Colorado;
here a division into two parties was effected, for the purpose
of carrying out the instructions of the War Department
to explore the courses of both the Arkansas and the<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16"></a>[pg016]</span>
Red. The division assigned to the exploration of Red
River, consisting of James, Peale, and seven men, was
commanded by Major Long himself, for this was one of
the principal objects of the expedition; the other division,
charged with the less important task of descending the
Arkansas, the entire course of which had already been examined
by Pike and his assistants, was led by Captain
Bell.</p>
<p>Leaving the Arkansas on the twenty-fourth, Long's
party crossed Purgatory Creek and the upper waters of
Cimarron River, and after six days reached a small tributary
of Canadian River, which, after five days' still
further travel, brought them to the latter near the present
Texas-New Mexico boundary line. As the region in
which they had encountered the waters of the Canadian
was that wherein the sources of the Red had, previous to
that time, been universally supposed to lie, they naturally
at first believed that they were upon the latter stream.
Their suspicions were soon aroused by the deviation of the
river's course from that which they expected the Red
to pursue; but it was not until they arrived at the confluence
of this waterway with the Arkansas that they became
certain of their error. During their descent of the Canadian
they encountered parties of Kaskaia and Comanche
Indians, whose conduct was not uniformly friendly. Few
incidents of interest, however, broke the painful monotony
of a journey accompanied by almost constant suffering
from exposure to violent storms and intense heat, lack of
food and water, and the attacks of wood ticks. On the
thirteenth of September the explorers arrived at Fort
Smith, the appointed rendezvous, where they found Bell's
party awaiting them.<span class="xxpgn">
<a name="Page_17" id="Page_17"></a>[pg017]</span></p>
<p>The experience of the Arkansas division had, in most
particulars, been quite similar to that of Long's, but on
the whole less vexatious. The chief event, however, involved
an irreparable loss to the expedition. This was
the desertion, on the night of the thirtieth of August, of
three soldiers, who wantonly took with them all the manuscripts
completed by Dr. Say and Lieutenant Swift since
leaving the Missouri. The stolen books contained notes
on the manners, habits, history, and languages of the
Indians, and on the animals which had been examined, a
journal of the expedition, and a mass of topographical
data. During part of the journey, Bell's party was even
more astray than Long's. Soon after passing the Great
Bend of the Arkansas, they mistook the Nennescah River
for the Negracka, or Salt Fork of the Arkansas; similar
errors added to their bewilderment, and for some time
they were unaware whether they were near Fort Smith or
still far distant—until, on the first of September, they met
friendly Osage Indians near Verdigris River. They
reached Fort Smith on the ninth.</p>
<p>From Fort Smith the reunited party followed the Arkansas
to the Cherokee towns on Illinois Creek, in Pope
County, Arkansas, whence they proceeded overland directly
to Cape Girardeau, Missouri. James and Swift,
parting from their companions at the Cherokee towns,
visited the Arkansas Hot Springs, now a famous health
resort, and returning to the Arkansas at Little Rock,
also crossed the country to Cape Girardeau, where all
members of the expedition were assembled on October
12. Here nearly all of the party were attacked by intermittent
fever.</p>
<p>Two or three weeks later, the expedition being now disbanded,
<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18"></a>[pg018]</span>
Major Long and Captain Bell set out for Washington,
leaving their colleagues to act according to their
own pleasure. About the first of November, Messrs. Say,
Seymour, and Peale departed by steamboat, intending to
return home by way of New Orleans. They were accompanied
by Lieutenant Graham, who, on completion of the
special duties assigned to him at Engineer Cantonment,
had met the exploring party at Cape Girardeau with the
"Western Engineer." Lieutenant Swift and Dr. James
essayed to ascend the Ohio to Louisville with the vessel;
but at Golconda, Illinois, James experienced a recurrence
of fever, which for some time prevented his proceeding
farther, while Swift, leaving the boat at Smithland, Kentucky,
continued his journey on horseback.</p>
<p>James's <cite>Account</cite> is the only narrative of the expedition,
and his connection with the party gives his work the authority
of an official report. Moreover, he not only had
access to the notes of his associates, but received much
personal assistance, especially from Long and Say. The
original edition was published at Philadelphia in 1823, by
Carey and Lea; it consisted of two volumes of 503 and
442 pages respectively, containing James's narrative, with
appendices giving a catalogue of animals observed at
Engineer Cantonment, the Indian sign language, Indian
speeches at the councils held by Major O'Fallon, astronomical
and meteorological records, and vocabularies of
Indian languages, especially those of the Oto, Kansa,
Omaha, Sioux, Minitaree, and Pawnee tribes. Extracts
from Major Long's report to the secretary of war, dated
January 20, 1821, and from the report made by his assistants
to Long on the mineralogy and geology of the region
explored, were incorporated in the second volume. A<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19"></a>[pg019]</span>
third volume contained the maps and plates, and the
edition was provided with a brief index and "Preliminary
Notice."</p>
<p>The same year another edition was published in London,
by Longman, Hurst, Rees, Orme, & Brown. This
edition, the one selected by us for reprinting, was in three
volumes, and contained the text essentially as printed in
the Philadelphia edition.<a name="FNanchor_8" id="FNanchor_8"></a><a href="#Footnote_8" class="fnanchor">[8]</a> In the arrangement of notes,
however, a different plan was adopted; in the Philadelphia
issue, all annotation was given at the foot of the
appropriate pages, while in the London edition the notes
for each volume were grouped in the back of the book. In
the present reprint the former plan is followed. The Preliminary
Notice found in the Philadelphia edition was
omitted from the London version, but is supplied in the
present reprint. The appendices giving astronomical and
meteorological data and Indian vocabularies, which were
omitted from the London edition, are also included in our
reprint. Finally, instead of the atlas which accompanied
the Philadelphia edition, selected illustrations, including
a map of the region explored, were incorporated with
the text in the various volumes of the London print.</p>
<p>In certain ways the results of the expedition were disappointing,
even to those persons whose expectations were
far less extravagant than the Missourian who had declared
that "ten years shall not pass away before we shall have
the rich productions of [China] transported from Canton
to the Columbia, up that river to the mountains, over the<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20"></a>[pg020]</span>
mountains and down the Missouri and Mississippi, all
the way (mountains and all), by the potent power of
steam." To this class, the report which the expedition
made on the trans-Mississippi country was far from encouraging.
Said Major Long in his final estimate: "In
regard to this extensive section of country, I do not hesitate
in giving the opinion, that it is almost wholly unfit for cultivation,
and of course uninhabitable by a people depending
upon agriculture for their subsistence. Although tracts
of fertile land considerably extensive are occasionally to
be met with, yet the scarcity of wood and water, almost
uniformly prevalent, will prove an insuperable obstacle in
the way of settling the country. This objection rests not
only against the section immediately under consideration,
but applies with equal propriety to a much larger portion
of the country. . . . This region, however, viewed
as a frontier, may prove of infinite importance to the
United States, inasmuch as it is calculated to serve as a
barrier to prevent too great an extension of our population
westward, and secure us against the machinations or incursions
of an enemy that might otherwise be disposed to
annoy us in that part of our frontier." In similar vein is
the comment of Dr. James: "We have little apprehension
of giving too unfavourable an account of this portion of
the country. Though the soil is in some places fertile, the
want of timber, of navigable streams, and of water for the
necessities of life, render it an unfit residence for any but a
nomad population. The traveller who shall at any time
have traversed its desolate sands, will, we think, join us
in the wish that this region may for ever remain the unmolested
haunt of the native hunter, the bison, and the
jackall." Such a verdict was not welcomed by an expansive<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21"></a>[pg021]</span>
people, eager to enter into and possess a land which
imagination pictured as suitable for the seat of an empire.</p>
<p>The teeming animal life of the great plains might have
suggested to Long and his associates its adaptability to
the needs of man; but for the occupation of the land without
political peril, at least two agencies were required,
which were, in their day, hardly more than dreams. We
cannot blame the explorers for failing to anticipate the
marvels of the railroad and the irrigating ditch; indeed,
the repulse of the agricultural vanguard which attempted
the invasion of the plains west of the hundredth meridian
only half a generation ago, vindicates the prediction
that the country could not be possessed by methods then
known. It may be doubted whether their conservatism
was not wiser than the confidence of the more ardent expansionists;
yet it is doubtless true that their report, by
depreciating the estimate of the value of the region,
put weapons into the hands of those Eastern men who
cherished a traditional jealousy of Westward expansion,
and caused the government rather to follow than to lead
the movement.</p>
<p>Another apparent ground for criticism is the failure of
the expedition to accomplish either of the great objects
mentioned in the instructions—the discovery of the
sources of the Platte and of the Red. The readiness with
which the explorers relinquished their efforts to penetrate
the mountains at the cañons of the Platte and Arkansas,
although the season was midsummer, seems to indicate
inefficiency as well as indifference to instructions. Likewise,
when the Canadian was reached and mistaken for
the Red, no effort was made to ascend the stream to its
source; the explorers were content to descend the river,<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22"></a>[pg022]</span>
leaving the exact location of its head undetermined. Some
excuse for this conduct is afforded by the inadequacy of
the equipment provided by Congress for this enterprise.
The federal government supplied six horses; the remainder
of the thirty-four were furnished by the members of the
party. "Our saddles and other articles of equipage,"
wrote James, "were of the rudest kind, being, with a few
exceptions, such as we had purchased from the Indians, or
constructed ourselves;" and, he adds, that the "very inadequate
outfit . . . was the utmost our united means
enabled us to furnish." Consequently, the party was compelled
to subsist largely upon the country explored, and its
movements were in no small degree dictated by the fear
of want. That many of the hardships experienced were
due to the slender outfit, is proved by the comparative
comfort with which later parties followed in their footsteps.
Twenty-five years afterwards, Colonel Abert,
starting from Bent's Fort, on the upper Arkansas, not
many miles from the point where Long's forces had divided,
crossed the upland to the Canadian and descended
to its mouth, following essentially Long's route, and making
the whole journey in wagons, for which, save in a few
places, a smooth course was found. This party succeeded
in finding sufficient water at almost every camp, while the
entire trip resembled more an outing for pleasure than it
did the harrowing journey of Major Long. The route
up the Canadian afterward became a much-used pathway
to New Mexico.<a name="FNanchor_9" id="FNanchor_9"></a>
<a href="#Footnote_9" class="fnanchor">[9]</a></p>
<p class="pgalone"><span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_23"
id="Page_23"></a>[pg023]</span></p>
<p>When all allowances have been made, much carelessness
is evident in the explorations of the Long expedition.
The bewilderment of Bell's party was inexcusable in men
of science possessing instruments for determining latitude
and longitude; their geographical errors to some extent
nullified their observations of natural features. Cimarron
River, the most important tributary of the Arkansas next
to the Canadian, they missed entirely, and the relative
size and location of the tributaries of the Arkansas remained
uncertain for years after. Upon beginning the
descent of the Arkansas they travelled two hundred miles
without, so far as James's <cite>Account</cite> shows, making a note
on geography or topography; but possibly some allowance
for this omission should be made because of the theft of
manuscripts by the deserters. Of the itinerary of the
expedition from the Platte to the Canadian, it has been
said, "It would be scarcely possible to find in any narrative
of Western history so careless an itinerary, and in a
scientific report like that of Dr. James it is quite inexcusable."<a
name="FNanchor_10" id="FNanchor_10"></a><a
href="#Footnote_10" class="fnanchor">[10]</a>
To the account of the country traversed
by the expedition, James added information relative to
portions of Arkansas and Louisiana, much of which was
already accessible to the public through the reports and
writings of Hunter and Dunbar, Sibley, Darby, Stoddard,
Schoolcraft, and others. However, this portion of James's
narrative also draws data from Major Long's manuscript<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24"></a>[pg024]</span>
journals, not elsewhere available, and gives the only account
of the attempted exploration of Red River under
Captain Richard Sparks, based on the memoranda of
members of the expedition.</p>
<p>After all criticisms have been urged to the utmost, the
work of the expedition was, and is, of considerable value.
The exploration of the Canadian River was an important
contribution to American geography. It was thenceforth
evident that the sources of the Red must be looked for
farther south than had previously been supposed, although
a generation was to elapse before their discovery. Otherwise,
the exploration added greatly to the knowledge of a
portion of the country but imperfectly known through
hunters and traders. Especially is this true as regards
details relative to natural history and ethnology; for the
work was done in the spirit of modern scientific investigation,
and in this respect anticipated later expeditions, for
which American public sentiment in 1820 was hardly ripe.
The collections included more than sixty skins of new or
rare animals, several thousand insects, of which many
hundreds were new, nearly five hundred undescribed
plants, mineral specimens, many new species of shells,
numerous fossils, a hundred and twenty-two animal
sketches, and a hundred and fifty landscape views. While
not primarily designed as a scientific report on these collections,
James's <cite>Account</cite> gives in the form of notes<a
name="FNanchor_11" id="FNanchor_11"></a><a href="#Footnote_11" class="fnanchor">[11]</a>
much of the more important information derived from
them. Perhaps no other portions of the work, however
equal in value those devoted to the aborigines;<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25"></a>[pg025]</span>
as an authoritative source of knowledge of the sociology of
the Kansa and Omaha tribes, the <cite>Account</cite> has no rival.</p>
<p>Soon after his return from the Rockies, Major Long was
sent upon another expedition, this time to the sources of
the St. Peter's (now Minnesota) River. This enterprise
was contemplated by the original instructions issued to
Long at the time of the Yellowstone project; but the subsequent
abandonment of the latter compelled alterations
in the programme of the scientific division. As in the
case of the first journey, the report of the St. Peter's exploration
is the work of another person—William H.
Keating, author of <cite>Long's Expedition to the Source of St.
Peter's River, Lake of the Woods, etc.</cite> (Philadelphia, 2
vols., 1824).</p>
<p>For these several explorations, Long was breveted lieutenant-colonel.
In 1827 he assumed charge of the survey
of the Baltimore & Ohio Railroad, and for many years
thereafter was much engaged in railroad engineering. His
<cite>Railroad Manual</cite> (1829) was the first original treatise on
railroad building published in this country. Upon the
organization of the Topographical Engineers as a separate
corps (1838), he became a major; later (1861) he was made
chief of the corps, with the rank of colonel. He was retired
from active service in 1863, still being entrusted
with important duties, which were interrupted by his
death, occurring at Alton, Illinois, the following year.</p>
<p>After the publication of his account of Long's expedition,
Dr. James received an appointment as army surgeon,
and was on the frontier for six years, which he utilized in
studying Indian dialects; during this period he translated
the New Testament into the Chippewa tongue (1833), and
published <cite>The Narrative of John Tanner</cite> (New York,<span
class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26"></a>[pg026]</span>
1830), the story of a child who had been stolen by the
Indians, and became a well-known interpreter. Resigning
his army post (1830), James became associate editor
of the <cite>Temperance Herald and Journal</cite>, at Albany; later
(1834) he removed to Iowa, and settled (1836) as an agriculturist
near Burlington, where he died in 1861.</p>
<p>In the preparation for the press of this reprint of James's
<cite>Account</cite>, the Editor has had throughout the assistance of
Homer C. Hockett, B.A., instructor in history in the
University of Wisconsin.</p>
<p class="right">R. G. T.</p>
<p class="indent1"><span class="smcap">Madison. Wis.</span>, March, 1905.</p>
<div class="front">
<p class="fsize2 center">
<a name="Part_I_of_Jamess_Account_of_S_H_Longs"
id="Part_I_of_Jamess_Account_of_S_H_Longs"></a><span class="smcap">
Part I of James's Account of S. H. Long's
Expedition, 1819-1820</span></p>
<p>Preliminary Notice reprinted from Volume I of Philadelphia edition,
1823. Text reprinted from Volume I of London edition, 1823.</p>
</div>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> <a
id="Map_of_the_Country_drained"></a> <img src="images/i030.jpg"
width="600" height="444" alt="" /> <div class="caption">Map
of the Country drained by the Mississippi.<span
class="epubhide"><br /><a href="images/i030hd.jpg"><small>see
larger</small></a></span></div> </div>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 414px;">
<a id="Facsimile_of_title-page_to_Volume_I"></a>
<img src="images/i031.jpg" width="414" height="700"
alt="" style="border:thin black solid;" /> <div
class="caption">Facsimile of title-page to Volume I
of James's <cite>Account</cite> <span class="los"><a
href="#ILLUSTRATIONS_TO_VOLUME_XIV"> go to List of
Illustrations</a></span></div>
</div>
<p class="toclink"><a href="#CONTENTS_OF_VOLUME_XIV">toc</a></p>
<div class="front" title="Dedication"><a id="Dedication"></a>
<div>TO</div>
<div>THE HONOURABLE</div>
<div class="fsize2">JOHN C. CALHOUN,</div>
<div>SECRETARY OF WAR;</div>
<div>WHOSE LIBERAL VIEWS, ENLIGHTENED POLICY, AND</div>
<div>JUDICIOUS MEASURES,</div>
<div>WHILE THEY HAVE BEEN PROSECUTED WITH THE UTMOST</div>
<div>CIRCUMSPECTION AND ECONOMY,</div>
<div>HAVE CONTRIBUTED IN AN EMINENT DEGREE</div>
<div>TO THE</div>
<div>ADVANCEMENT OF THE NATIONAL CHARACTER OF THE</div>
<div>UNITED STATES,</div>
<div>BOTH IN SCIENCE AND POLITICS;</div>
<div>THE FOLLOWING PAGES</div>
<div>ARE MOST RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED BY</div>
<div>THE AUTHORS,</div>
<div>AS A FEEBLE TESTIMONIAL OF</div>
<div>THEIR HIGH CONSIDERATION OF HIS TALENTS AND</div>
<div>PATRIOTISM, AND A GRATEFUL ACKNOWLEDGEMENT</div>
<div>OF HIS INDULGENCE AND PATRONAGE.</div>
</div>
<h2 title="Preliminary Notice">
<a name="PRELIMINARY_NOTICE" id="PRELIMINARY_NOTICE"></a>PRELIMINARY
NOTICE</h2>
<p class="center">[From the Philadelphia edition, 1823]</p>
<p class="pgalone"><span class="xxpgn">
<a name="Page_35" id="Page_35"></a>[pg035]</span></p>
<p class="toclink"><a href="#CONTENTS_OF_VOLUME_XIV">toc</a></p>
<p>In selecting from a large mass of notes and journals the
materials of the following volumes, our design has been
to present a compendious account of the labors of the
Exploring Party, and of such of their discoveries as were
thought likely to gratify a liberal curiosity. It was not
deemed necessary to preserve uniformity of style, at the
expense of substituting the language of a compiler for
that of an original observer. Important contributions of
entire passages from Major Long and Mr. Say, will be
recognized in various parts of the work, though we have
not always been careful to indicate the place of their introduction.
Those gentlemen have indeed been constantly
attentive to the work, both to the preparation of
the manuscript and its revision for the press.</p>
<p>In the following pages we hope to have contributed
something towards a more thorough acquaintance with
the Aborigines of our country. In other parts of our narrative
where this interesting topic could not be introduced,
we have turned our attention towards the phenomena of
nature, to the varied and beautiful productions of animal
and vegetable life, and to the more magnificent if
less attractive features of the inorganic creation.</p>
<p>{2} If in this attempt we have failed to produce any
thing to amuse or instruct, the deficiency is in ourselves.
The few minute descriptions of animals and plants that
were thought admissible, have been placed as marginal<span
class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36"></a>[pg036]</span>
notes, and we hope they will not be the less acceptable to
the scientific reader, for being given in the order in which
they occurred to our notice.</p>
<p>Descriptions of the greater number of the animals and
plants collected on the Expedition, remain to be given.
These may be expected to appear from time to time, either
in periodical journals or in some other form.</p>
<p>Not aspiring to be considered historians of the regions
we traversed, we only aimed at giving a sketch true at the
moment of our visit, and which, as far as it embraces the
permanent features of nature, will we trust, be corroborated
by those who shall follow our steps. Much remains
to be done not only on the ground we have occupied,
but in those vast regions in the interior of our continent,
to which the foot of civilized man has never penetrated.
We cannot but hope, that the enlightened spirit which has
already evinced itself in directing a part of the energies of
the nation, towards the development of the physical resources
of our country, will be allowed still farther to
operate; that the time will arrive, when we shall no longer
be indebted to the men of foreign countries, for a knowledge
of any of the products of our own soil, or for our
opinions in science.</p>
<p>We feel it a duty incumbent upon us, to acknowledge
our obligations to many distinguished individuals, both
{3} military and scientific, and particularly to several
members of the Philosophical Society at Philadelphia, for
their prompt offers of any aid in their power to contribute
towards advancing the objects of the expedition at its
commencement. We are indebted more especially to
Professors James, Walsh, and Patterson, to Dr. Dewees
and Mr. Duponceau; each of whom furnished a number<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37"></a>[pg037]</span>
of queries, and a list of objects, by which to direct our
observations. These we found eminently useful, and we
regret to state that, with many of our manuscripts they
were inadvertently mislaid, otherwise, they should have
been published in this place, for the information of future
travellers.</p>
<p>An interesting communication from Messrs. Gordon
and Wells, of Smithland, Kentucky, was received after
the first volume had gone to press, consequently too late
for insertion.</p>
<p>As a farther introduction to our narrative, we subjoin an
extract from the orders of the Honourable Secretary of
War to Major Long, exhibiting an outline of the plan and
objects of the Expedition.</p>
<div class="blockquot">
<p>"You will assume the command of the Expedition to
explore the country between the Mississippi and the
Rocky Mountains."</p>
<p>"You will first explore the Missouri and its principal
branches, and then, in succession, Red river, Arkansa and
Mississippi, above the mouth of the Missouri."</p>
<p>"The object of the Expedition, is to acquire as thorough
and accurate knowledge as may be practicable, of a portion
of our country, which is daily becoming {4} more interesting,
but which is as yet imperfectly known. With this
view, you will permit nothing worthy of notice, to escape
your attention. You will ascertain the latitude and longitude
of remarkable points with all possible precision.
You will if practicable, ascertain some point in the 49th
parallel of latitude, which separates our possessions from
those of Great Britain. A knowledge of the extent of our
limits will tend to prevent collision between our traders
and theirs."<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_38"
id="Page_38"></a>[pg038]</span></p>
<p>"You will enter in your journal, every thing interesting
in relation to soil, face of the country, water courses and
productions, whether animal, vegetable, or mineral."</p>
<p>"You will conciliate the Indians by kindness and presents,
and will ascertain, as far as practicable, the number
and character of the various tribes, with the extent of
country claimed by each."</p>
<p>"Great confidence is reposed in the acquirements and
zeal of the citizens who will accompany the Expedition
for scientific purposes, and a confident hope is entertained,
that their duties will be performed in such a manner, as
to add both to their own reputation and that of our country."</p>
<p>"The Instructions of Mr. Jefferson to Capt. Lewis,
which are printed in his travels, will afford you many valuable
suggestions, of which as far as applicable, you will
avail yourself."</p></div>
<p>It will be perceived that the travels and researches of
the Expedition, have been far less extensive than {5} those
contemplated in the foregoing orders:—the state of the national
finances, during the year 1821, having called for retrenchments
in all expenditures of a public nature,—the means necessary for
the farther prosecution of the objects of the Expedition, were
accordingly withheld. <span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_39"
id="Page_39"></a>[pg039]</span></p>
<p class="fsize2 center"><a name="EXPEDITION_FROM_PITTSBURGH"
id="EXPEDITION_FROM_PITTSBURGH"></a>EXPEDITION FROM PITTSBURGH
TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS<br />[PART I.]</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 100px;">
<img src="images/hr-100.png" width="100" height="1"
alt="horizontal rule 100" />
</div>
<h2 title="Chapter I"><a name="CHAPTER_I" id="CHAPTER_I"></a>
CHAPTER I</h2>
<p class="chaphead">Departure from Pittsburgh—North-western slope of
the Alleghany Mountains—Rapids of the Ohio.</p>
<p class="toclink"><a href="#CONTENTS_OF_VOLUME_XIV">toc</a></p>
<p>Early in April, 1819, the several persons constituting
the exploring party had assembled at Pittsburgh. It
had been our intention to commence the descent of the
Ohio, before the middle of that month; but some unavoidable
delays in the completion of the steam boat,
and in the preparations necessary for a long voyage, prevented
our departure until the first of May. On the
31st of March, the following instructions were issued by
the commanding officer, giving an outline of the services
to be performed by the party, and assigning to each
individual<a name="FNanchor_12" id="FNanchor_12"></a><a
href="#Footnote_12" class="fnanchor">[001]</a>
the appropriate duties:—</p>
<p class="pgalone"><span class="xxpgn">
<a name="Page_40" id="Page_40"></a>[pg040]</span></p>
<div class="blockquot">
<p>"Pursuant to orders from the Hon. Secretary of War,
Major Long assumes the command of the expedition
about to engage in exploring the Mississippi, Missouri,
and their navigable tributaries, on board the United
States' steam-boat, Western Engineer.</p>
<p>"The commanding officer will direct the movements
and operations of the expedition, both in relation {2} to
military and scientific pursuits. A strict observance of
all orders, whether written or verbal, emanating from
him, will be required of all connected with the expedition.
The prime object of the expedition being a topographical
description of the country to be explored, the
commanding officer will avail himself of any assistance
he may require of any persons on board to aid in taking
the necessary observations. In this branch of duty,<span
class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41"></a>[pg041]</span>
Lieutenant Graham and Cadet Swift will officiate as his
immediate assistants.</p>
<p>"The journal of the expedition will be kept by Major
Biddle, whose duty it will be to record all transactions
of the party that concern the objects of the expedition,
to describe the manners and customs, &c. of the inhabitants
of the country through which we may pass; to
trace in a compendious manner the history of the towns,
villages, and tribes of Indians we may visit; to review
the writings of other travellers, and compare their statements
with our own observations; and in general to
record whatever may be of interest to the community in
a civil point of view, not interfering with the records to
be kept by the naturalists attached to the expedition.</p>
<p>"Dr. Baldwin will act as botanist for the expedition.<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42"></a>[pg042]</span>
A description of all the products of vegetation, common
or peculiar to the countries we may traverse, will be required
of him, also the diseases prevailing among the
inhabitants, whether civilized or savages, and their
probable causes, will be subjects for his investigation;
any variety in the anatomy of the human frame, or any
other phenomena observable in our species, will be
particularly noted by him. Dr. Baldwin will also
officiate as physician and surgeon for the expedition.</p>
<p>"Mr. Say will examine and describe any objects in
zoology, and its several branches, that may come under
our observation. A classification of all land and water
animals, insects, &c. and a particular description {3} of
the animal remains found in a concrete state will be
required of him.</p>
<p>"Geology, so far as it relates to earths, minerals, and
fossils, distinguishing the primitive, transition, secondary,
and alluvial formations and deposits, will afford subjects
of investigation for Mr. Jessup. In this science,
as also in botany and zoology, facts will be required
without regard to the theories or hypotheses that have
been advanced on numerous occasions by men of science.</p>
<p>"Mr. Peale will officiate as assistant naturalist. In
the several departments above enumerated, his services
will be required in collecting specimens suitable to be
preserved, in drafting and delineating them, in preserving
the skins, &c. of animals, and in sketching the
stratifications of rocks, earths, &c. as presented on the
declivities of precipices.</p>
<p>"Mr. Seymour, as painter for the expedition, will
furnish sketches of landscapes, whenever we meet with
any distinguished for their beauty and grandeur. He<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43"></a>[pg043]</span>
will also paint miniature likenesses, or portraits, if required,
of distinguished Indians, and exhibit groups of
savages engaged in celebrating their festivals, or sitting
in council, and in general illustrate any subject, that
may be deemed appropriate in his art.</p>
<p>"Lieutenant Graham and Cadet Swift, in addition to
the duties they may perform in the capacity of assistant
topographers, will attend to drilling the boat's crew, in
the exercise of the musket, the field-piece, and the sabre.</p>
<p>"Their duties will be assigned them, from time to
time, by the commanding officer.</p>
<p>"All records kept on board the steam-boat, all subjects
of natural history, geology, and botany, all drawings,
as also journals of every kind relating to the expedition,
will at all times be subject to the inspection of
the commanding officer, and at the conclusion of each
trip or voyage, will be placed at his disposal, as agent for
the United States' government.</p>
<p>{4} "Orders will be given, from time to time, whenever
the commanding officer may deem them expedient.</p>
<p class="right">
"<span class="smcap">S. H. Long</span>, <i>Major U. S. Engineers,<br />
commanding Expedition</i>."</p>
</div> <!--end of block quote-->
<p>On the 3d of May we left the arsenal,<a name="FNanchor_13"
id="FNanchor_13"></a><a href="#Footnote_13" class="fnanchor">[002]</a>
where the boat
had been built, and after exchanging a salute of twenty-two<span
class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44"></a>[pg044]</span>
guns, began to descend the Alleghany, towards
Pittsburgh. Great numbers of spectators lined the
banks of the river, and their acclamations were occasionally
noticed by the discharge of ordnance on board
the boat. The important duties assigned the expedition
rendered its departure a subject of interest, and some
peculiarities in the structure of the boat attracted attention.</p>
<p>We were furnished with an adequate supply of arms
and ammunition, and a collection of books and instruments.</p>
<p>On Wednesday the 5th of May, having completed
some alterations, which it appeared necessary to make
in our engine, and received on board all our stores, we
left Pittsburgh and proceeded on our voyage. All the
gentlemen of the party, except Dr. Baldwin, were in
good health, and entered upon this enterprise in good
spirits and with high expectations. Fourteen miles below
Pittsburgh, we passed a steam-boat lying aground; we
received and returned their salute, as is customary with
the merchants' boats on the Ohio and Mississippi.</p>
<p>At evening we heard the cry of the whip-poor-will;<a
name="FNanchor_14" id="FNanchor_14"></a><a href="#Footnote_14"
class="fnanchor">[003]</a> and among other birds saw the pelecanus
carbo, several turkey vultures, and the tell-tale sand-piper. The
spring was now rapidly advancing, the dense forests of the Ohio
bottoms were unfolding their luxuriant foliage, and the scattered
plantations assuming the cheering aspect of summer.</p>
<p>{5} A few weeks' residence at and near Pittsburgh, and several
journies across the Alleghany mountains, in different parts, have
afforded us the opportunity of collecting<span class="xxpgn"><a
name="Page_45" id="Page_45"></a>[pg045]</span> a few observations
relative to that important section of country, which contains the
sources of the Ohio.</p>
<p>In the Alleghany river we found several of those little
animals, which have been described as a species of Proteus,
but which to us appear more properly to belong to
the genus Triton.<a name="FNanchor_15" id="FNanchor_15"></a>
<a href="#Footnote_15" class="fnanchor">[004]</a></p>
<p class="pgalone"><span class="xxpgn">
<a name="Page_46" id="Page_46"></a>[pg046]</span></p>
<p>The north-western slope of that range of mountains,
known collectively as the Alleghanies, has a moderate
inclination towards the bed of the Ohio, and the St.
Lawrence, which run nearly in opposite directions along
its base. This mountain chain extends uninterrupted
along the Atlantic coast, from the Gulf of St. Lawrence
south-west to the great alluvial formation of the Mississippi.
It crosses the St. Lawrence at the rapids above
Quebec, and has been supposed to be connected as a
spur to a group of primitive mountains occupying a
large portion of the interior of the continent, north of
the great Lakes.<a name="FNanchor_16" id="FNanchor_16"></a><a href="#Footnote_16" class="fnanchor">[005]</a> An inspection of any of the late maps
of North America, will show that this range holds the
second place among the mountain chains of this continent.
All our rivers of the first magnitude have their
sources, either in the Rocky Mountains, or in elevated
spurs, projecting from the sides of that range. The
largest of the rivers, flowing from the Alleghanies, is the
Ohio; and even this, running almost parallel to the
range, and receiving as many, and, with a few exceptions,
as large rivers from the north as from the south,
seems in a great measure independent of it. From the
most elevated part of the continent, at the sources of the
Platte, and Yellow Stone, branches of the Missouri, the
descent towards the Atlantic is at least {6} twice obstructed
by ranges of hills nearly parallel, in direction, to
each other. Erroneous impressions have heretofore prevailed
respecting the character of that part of the country
called the Mississippi Valley. If we consider attentively
that extensive portion of our continent, drained
by the Mississippi, we shall find it naturally divided into
two nearly equal sections. This division is made by a
range of hilly country, to be hereafter particularly described,
running from near the north-western angle of
the Gulf of Mexico north-eastwardly to Lake Superior.
Eastward, from this range, to the summit of the Alleghanies,
extends a country of forests, having usually a<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49"></a>[pg049]</span>
deep and fertile soil, reposing upon extensive strata of
argillaceous sandstone, compact limestone, and other
secondary rocks. Though these rocks extend almost to
the highest summits of the Alleghanies, and retain even
there the horizontal position which they have in the
plains, the region they underlay is not to be considered
as forming a district of table lands. On the contrary,
its surface is varied by deep vallies and lofty hills; and
there are extensive tracts elevated probably not less
than eight hundred feet above the Atlantic ocean. The
north-western slope of the Alleghany mountains, though
more gradual than the south-eastern, is, like it, divided
by deep vallies, parallel to the general direction of the
range. In these vallies, many of the rivers, which derive
their sources from the interior and most elevated
hills of the group, pursue their courses for many miles,
descending either towards the south-west, or the north-east,
until they at length acquire sufficient force to
break through the opposing ridges, whence they afterward
pursue a more direct course. As instances, we may
mention the Monongahela river, which runs nearly
parallel, but in an opposite direction, to the Ohio; the
great Kenhawa, whose course above the falls forms an
acute angle with the part below; also the Cumberland,
and Tennessee, which run a {7} long distance parallel to
each other, and to the Ohio. This fact seems to justify
the inference, that some other agent than the rivers has
been active in the production of the vallies between the
subordinate ridges of the Alleghany. There appears
some reason to believe that the rocky hills, along the
immediate course of the Ohio and the larger western
rivers, have received, at least, their present form from<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50"></a>[pg050]</span>
the operation of streams of water. They do not, like
the accessory ridges of the Alleghany, form high and
continuous chains, apparently influencing the direction
of rivers, but present groups of conic eminences separated
by water-worn vallies, and having a sort of symmetric
arrangement. The structure of these hills does
not so much differ from that of the Alleghany mountains,
as their form and position. The long chains of
hills, which form the ascent to the Alleghany, on the
western side, are based either on metalliferous limestone,
or some of the inclined rocks belonging to the transition
formation of Werner, and have their summits capped
with the more recent secondary aggregates in strata
without inclination, and greatly resembling those found
in the plains west of the Ohio. It is not easy to conceive
how these horizontal strata, unless originally continuous,
should appear so similar at equal elevations in
different hills, and hills separated by vallies of several
miles in width. If that convulsion which produced the
inclination of the strata, of the metalliferous limestone,
the clay-slate, and the gray wacke, happened before
the deposition of the compact limestone, and the argillaceous
sandstones, why are not these later aggregates
found principally in the vallies, where their integrant
particles would be supposed most readily to have
accumulated? On the other hand, if the secondary
rocks had been deposited previous to that supposed
change, how have their stratifications retained the original
horizontal {8} position, while that of the transition
strata has been changed?</p>
<p>Most of the rivers which descend from the western side
of the Alleghany mountains are of inconsiderable magnitude,<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51"></a>[pg051]</span>
and by no means remarkable, on account of the
straightness of their course, or the rapidity of their currents.
The maps accompanying this work, will, in the
most satisfactory manner, illustrate the great contrast in
this respect, between the district now under consideration
and the eastern slope of the Rocky Mountains. The Tennessee,
the Cumberland, the Kentucky, the Kenhawa and
Alleghany rivers, though traversed in their courses by
rocky dikes, sometimes compressing their beds into a
narrow compass, occasioning rapids, and in other instances
causing perpendicular falls, yet compared to the
Platte, and the western tributaries of the Missouri generally,
can be considered neither shoal nor rapid. Their
immediate banks are permanent, often rocky, and the
sloping beach covered with trees or shrubs, and the water,
except in time of high floods, nearly transparent. The
waters of the Ohio, and its tributaries, and perhaps of
most other rivers, when they do not suspend such quantities
of earthy matter as to destroy their transparency,
reflect, from beneath their surface, a greenish colour.
This colour has been thought to be, in some instances,
occasioned by minute confervas, or other floating plants,
or to result from the decomposition of decaying vegetable
matter. That it depends on neither of these causes, however,
is sufficiently manifest, for when seen by transmitted
light, the green waters are usually transparent and colourless.
Some rivers of Switzerland, and some of South
America, which descend from lofty primitive mountains,
consisting of rocks of the most flinty and indestructible
composition, covered with perpetual snows, and almost
destitute of organic beings, or exuviæ, either animal or {9}
vegetable, and whose waters have a temperature, even in<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52"></a>[pg052]</span>
summer, raised but a few degrees above the freezing point,
which circumstance, together with the rapidity of their
currents, render them unfit for the abode of vegetable life,
and is incompatible with the existence of putrefaction,
notwithstanding the transparency of their waters, and the
reddish, or yellowish colour of the rocks which pave their
beds, have a tinge of green, like the Ohio and Cumberland,
at times of low water. It is well known that the water of
the ocean, though more transparent than any other, is
usually green near the shores; and on soundings, while at
main ocean, its colour is blue. Perhaps the power which
transparent waters have of decomposing the solar light,
and reflecting principally the green rays, may have some
dependence upon the depth of the stratum. If this were
the case, we might expect all rivers, equally transparent
and of equal depth, to reflect similar colours, which is not
always the case.</p>
<p>In the southern part of Pennsylvania, the range called
particularly the Alleghany ridge, is near the centre, and is
most elevated of the group. Its summit divides the
waters of the Susquehannah on the east from those of the
Ohio on the west.</p>
<p>This mountain consists principally of argillite and the
several varieties of grey wacke, grey wacke slate, and the
other aggregates, which in transition formations usually
intervene between the metalliferous limestone and the inclined
sandstone. The strata have less inclination than
in the Cove, Sideling, and South mountains, and other
ridges east of the Alleghany. The summit is broad, and
covered with heavy forests. Something of the fertility of
the Mississippi valley seems to extend, in this direction, to
the utmost limits of the secondary formation. The western<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53"></a>[pg053]</span>
descent of the Alleghany ridge is more gradual than
the eastern, and the inclination of the strata in some measure
reversed. It is proper to remark, that, {10} throughout
this group of mountains, much irregularity prevails in the
direction as well as of the dip and inclination of strata. If
any remark is generally applicable, it is, perhaps, that the
inclination of the rocks is towards the most elevated summits
in the vicinity.</p>
<p>Laurel ridge, the next in succession, is separated from
the Alleghany by a wide valley. Its geological features
are, in general, similar to those of the eastern ranges; but
about its summit, the sandstones of the coal formation
begin to appear alternating with narrow beds of bituminous
clay-slate. Near the summit of this ridge, coal beds have
been explored, and, at the time of our visit, coals were sold
at the pits for ten cents per bushel. In actual elevation,
the coal strata at the summit of Laurel-hill, fall but little
below the summits of the Alleghany. Thus, in traversing
from east to west the state of Pennsylvania, there is a constant
but gradual ascent from the gneiss at Philadelphia,
the several rocky strata occurring one above another, in
the inverse order of their respective ages, the points most
elevated being occupied by rocks of recent origin, abounding
in the remains of animal and vegetable life.</p>
<p>Near the summit of this ridge some change is observed
in the aspect of the forest. The deep umbrageous hue of
the hemlock spruce, the Weymouth pine, and other trees
of the family of the coniferæ, is exchanged for the livelier
verdure of the broad-leaved laurel, the rhododendron, and
the magnolia acuminata.</p>
<p>Chesnut ridge, the last of those accessary to the Alleghany
on the west, deserving the name of a mountain, is<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54"></a>[pg054]</span>
somewhat more abrupt and precipitous, than those before
mentioned. This ridge is divided transversely by the bed of
the Loyalhanna, a rapid, but beautiful stream, along which
the turnpike is built. Few spots in the wild and mountainous
regions {11} of the Alleghanies, have a more grand
and majestic scenery than this chasm. The sides and
summits of the two overhanging mountains, were, at the
time of our journey, brown, and to appearance almost
naked; the few trees which inhabit them being deciduous,
while the laurels and rosebays gave the deep and narrow
vallies the luxuriant verdure of spring.</p>
<p>The Monongahela rises in Virginia, in the Laurel ridge,
and running northward, receives in Pennsylvania the
Yohogany, whose sources are in the Alleghany mountain,
opposite those of the Potomac. This river, like most of
those descending westward from the Alleghany, has falls
and rapids at the points where it intersects Laurel-hill,
and some of the smaller ranges. Along the fertile bottoms
of the Alleghany river, we begin to discover traces of those
ancient works so common in the lower parts of the Mississippi
valley, the only remaining vestiges of a people once
numerous and powerful, of whom time has destroyed
every other record. These colossal monuments, whatever
may have been the design of their erection, have long since
outlived the memory of those who raised them, and will
remain for ages affecting witnesses of the instability of
national, as well as individual greatness; and of the futility
of those efforts, by which man endeavours to attach his
name and his memorial to the most permanent and indestructible
forms of inorganic matter.</p>
<p>In the deep vallies west of the Alleghany, and even west
of the Laurel ridge, the metalliferous limestone, which<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55"></a>[pg055]</span>
appears to be the substratum of this whole group of mountains,
is again laid bare. In this part of the range, we
have not observed those frequent alternations of clay-slate
with this limestone, which have been noticed by Mr.
Eaton and others in New England.<a name="FNanchor_17" id="FNanchor_17"></a><a href="#Footnote_17" class="fnanchor">[006]</a> In its inclination, and
in most particulars {12} of external character, it is remarkably
similar to the mountain limestone of Vermont, and
the western counties of Massachusetts. Many portions
of the interior of the state of Pennsylvania have a basis of
this limestone. When not overlaid by clay-slate, and
particularly when not in connexion with sandstone, the
soils resting on the transition limestone are found peculiarly
fertile and valuable, having usually a favourable
disposition of surface for agricultural purposes, and
abounding with excellent water.</p>
<p>The transition limestone is not, however, of frequent
occurrence westward of the Alleghany ridge. It appears
only in the vallies,<a name="FNanchor_18" id="FNanchor_18"></a><a href="#Footnote_18" class="fnanchor">[007]</a> and is succeeded by clay-slate and the
old sandstone lying almost horizontally. The coal, with
the accompanying strata of argillaceous sandstone and
shale, are, as far as we have seen, entirely horizontal.</p>
<p>The country westward from the base of the Chesnut
ridge has an undulating surface. The hills are broad, and
terminated by a rounded outline, and the landscape, presenting
a grateful variety of fields and forests, is often
beautiful, particularly when, from some elevation, the
view overlooks a great extent of country, and the blue<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56"></a>[pg056]</span>
summits of the distant mountains are added to the perspective.</p>
<p>Pittsburgh has been so often described, the advantages
and disadvantages of its situation, and the gloomy repulsiveness
of its appearance, have been so often and so
justly portrayed, that we should not think ourselves well
employed in recounting our own observations. The
Alleghany and the Monongahela at Pittsburgh, where
they unite to form the Ohio, are nearly equal in magnitude;
the former, however, on account of the rapidity of its current,
and the transparency of its waters, is a far more
beautiful river than the latter. Its sources are distributed
along the margin of Lake Erie, and a portage, of only fifteen
miles, connects its navigation with that of the St.
Lawrence.</p>
<p>{13} About the sources of the Alleghany are extensive
forests of pine, whence are drawn great supplies of lumber
for the country below as far as New Orleans. On French
Creek, and other tributary streams, are large bodies of low
and rather fertile lands, closely covered with forests, where
the great Weymouth pine, and the hemlock spruce, are
intermixed with beech, birch, and the sugar maple. The
great white or Weymouth pine, is one of the most beautiful
of the North American species. Its trunk often attains
the diameter of five or six feet, rising smooth and
straight from sixty to eighty feet, and terminated by a
dense conical top. This tree, though not exclusively
confined to the northern parts of our continent, attains
there its greatest magnitude and perfection. It
forms a striking feature in the forest scenery of Vermont,
New Hampshire, and some parts of Canada,
and New York; rising by nearly half its elevation above
the summits of the other trees, and resembling, like<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57"></a>[pg057]</span>
the palms of the tropics, so beautifully described by M. De
Saint Pierre, and M. De Humboldt, "a forest planted
upon another forest."<a name="FNanchor_19" id="FNanchor_19"></a><a href="#Footnote_19" class="fnanchor">[008]</a> The sighing of the wind in the
tops of these trees, resembles the scarce audible murmurings
of a distant waterfall, and adds greatly to the impression
of solemnity produced by the gloom and silence
of the pine forest. In the southern parts of the Alleghany
mountains, pines are less frequent, and in the central portions
of the valley of the Mississippi, they are extremely
rare.</p>
<p>The coal formation, containing the beds which have long
been wrought near Pittsburgh, appears to be of great extent;
but we are unable particularly to point out its limits
towards the north and east.<a name="FNanchor_20" id="FNanchor_20"></a><a href="#Footnote_20" class="fnanchor">[009]</a> One hundred miles above
Pittsburgh, near the Alleghany river, is a spring, on the surface
of {14} whose waters are found such quantities of a
bituminous oil, that a person may gather several gallons in
a day. This spring is most probably connected with coal
strata, as are numerous similar ones in Ohio, Kentucky,
&c.<a name="FNanchor_21" id="FNanchor_21"></a><a href="#Footnote_21" class="fnanchor">[010]</a> Indeed, it appears reasonable to believe that the<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58"></a>[pg058]</span>
coal strata are continued along the western slope of the
Alleghanies with little interruption, at least as far northward
as the brine springs of Onondago. Of all the saline
springs belonging to this formation, and whose waters are
used for the manufacture of salt, the most important are
those of the Kenhawa, a river of Virginia. Others occur
in that country of ancient monuments, about Paint Creek,
between the Sciota and the Muskinghum, near the Silver
Creek hills in Illinois; and indeed in almost all the country
contiguous to the Ohio river. Wherever we have had the
opportunity of observing these brine springs, we have
usually found them in connexion with an argillaceous
sandstone, bearing impressions of phytolytes, culmaria,
and those tessellated zoophytes, so common about many
coal beds.<a name="FNanchor_22" id="FNanchor_22"></a><a
href="#Footnote_22" class="fnanchor">[011]</a> It appeared to us worthy of remark, that in
many places, where explorations have been made for salt
water, and where perpendicular shafts have been carried
to the depth of from two to four hundred feet, the water,
when found, rises with sufficient force to elevate itself
several feet above the surface of the earth. This effect
appears to be produced by the pressure of an aërial fluid,
existing in connexion with the water, in those cavities beneath
the strata of sandstone, where the latter is confined,
or escaping from combination with it, as soon as the
requisite enlargement is given, by perforating the superincumbent<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59"></a>[pg059]</span>
strata. We have had no opportunity of examining
attentively the gaseous substances which escape from
the brine pits, but from their sensible properties we are
induced to suppose, that carbonic acid, and carburetted
hydrogen, are among those of most frequent occurrence.<a name="FNanchor_23" id="FNanchor_23"></a><a href="#Footnote_23" class="fnanchor">[012]</a></p>
<p>{15} The little village of Olean,<a name="FNanchor_24" id="FNanchor_24"></a><a href="#Footnote_24" class="fnanchor">[013]</a> on the Alleghany river,
has been for many years a point of embarkation, where
great numbers of families, migrating from the northern and
eastern states, have exchanged their various methods, of
slow and laborious progression by land, for the more convenient
one of the navigation of the Ohio. From Olean
downward, the Alleghany and Ohio bear along with their
currents fleets of rude arks laden with cattle, horses, household
furniture, agricultural implements, and numerous
families having all their possessions embarked on the same
bottom, and floating onward toward that imaginary region
of happiness and contentment, which, like the "town of
the brave and generous spirits," the expected heaven of
the aboriginal American, lies always "beyond the place
where the sun goes down."</p>
<p>This method of transportation, though sometimes speedy<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60"></a>[pg060]</span>
and convenient, is attended with uncertainty and danger.
A moderate wind blowing up the river, produces such
swells in some parts of the Ohio, as to endanger the safety
of the ark; and these heavy unmanageable vessels are with
difficulty so guided in their descent, as to avoid the <i>planters</i>,
sunken logs, and other concealed obstructions to the navigation
of the Ohio. We have known many instances of
boats of this kind so suddenly sunk, as only to afford time
for the escape of the persons on board.</p>
<p>On the 6th we arrived at Wheeling,<a name="FNanchor_25" id="FNanchor_25"></a><a href="#Footnote_25" class="fnanchor">[014]</a> a small town of
Virginia, situate on a narrow margin along the bank of the
Ohio, at the base of a high cliff of sandstone. Here the
great national road from Cumberland comes in conjunction
with that of Zanesville, Columbus, and Cincinnati.
The town of Cumberland, from which this great national
work has received the appellation of the Cumberland road,
lies on the north side of the Potomac, one hundred and forty
miles E. by S. from Wheeling. The road between these
two points was constructed by the government {16} of the
United States, at a cost of one million eight hundred thousand
dollars.<a name="FNanchor_26" id="FNanchor_26"></a><a href="#Footnote_26" class="fnanchor">[015]</a> The bridges and other works of masonry,
on the western portion of this road, are built of a compact
argillaceous sandstone, of a light gray or yellowish white
colour, less durable than the stone used in the middle and
eastern sections, which is the blue metalliferous limestone,
one of the most beautiful and imperishable among the
materials for building which our country affords. A few
miles from Wheeling, a small but beautiful bridge, forming<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61"></a>[pg061]</span>
a part of this road, is ornamented with a statue of that
distinguished statesman, Mr. Clay; erected, as we were informed,
by a gentleman who resides in that neighbourhood.</p>
<p>In an excursion on shore, near the little village of
Charleston,<a name="FNanchor_27" id="FNanchor_27"></a><a href="#Footnote_27" class="fnanchor">[016]</a> in Virginia, we met with many plants common
to the eastern side of the Alleghanies; beside the delicate
sison bulbosum, whose fruit was now nearly ripened.
In shady situations we found the rocks, and even the
trunks of trees to some little distance from the ground,
closely covered with the sedum ternatum, with white
flowers fully unfolded. The cercis canadensis, and the
cornus florida, were now expanding their flowers, and in
some places occurred so frequently, as to impart their
lively colouring to the landscape. In their walks on shore,
the gentlemen of the party collected great numbers of the
early-flowering herbaceous plants, common to various
parts of the United States.<a name="FNanchor_28" id="FNanchor_28"></a><a href="#Footnote_28" class="fnanchor">[017]</a> An enumeration of a few of<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62"></a>[pg062]</span>
the species most commonly known, with the dates of their
flowering, is given in the note.</p>
<p>The scenery of the banks of the Ohio, for two or three
hundred miles below Pittsburgh, is eminently beautiful,
but is deficient in grandeur and variety. The hills usually
approach on both sides nearly to the brink of the river;
they have a rounded and graceful form, and are so grouped
as to produce a pleasing effect. Broad and gentle swells of
two or three hundred feet, covered with the verdure of the
almost unbroken {17} forest, embosom a calm and majestic
river; from whose unruffled surface, the broad outline of
the hills is reflected with a distinctness equal to that with
which it is imprinted upon the azure vault of the sky. In
a few instances near the summits of the hills, the forest
trees become so scattered, as to disclose here and there a
rude mass, or a perpendicular precipice of gray sandstone,
or compact limestone, the prevailing rocks in all this region.
The hills are, however, usually covered with soil
on all sides, except that looking towards the river, and
in most instances are susceptible of cultivation to
their summits. These hilly lands are found capable of<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63"></a>[pg063]</span>
yielding, by ordinary methods of culture, about fifty bushels
of maize per acre. They were originally covered with
dense and uninterrupted forests, in which the beech trees
were those of most frequent occurrence. These forests
are now disappearing before the industry of man; and the
rapid increase of population and wealth, which a few years
have produced, speaks loudly in favour of the healthfulness
of the climate, and of the internal resources of the
country. The difficulty of establishing an indisputable
title to lands, has been a cause operating hitherto to
retard the progress of settlement, in some of the most fertile
parts of the country of the Ohio; and the inconveniences
resulting from this source still continue to be felt.</p>
<p>On the 7th, we passed the mouth of the Kenhawa, and
the little village of Point Pleasant. The spot now occupied
by this village is rendered memorable, on account of
the recollections connected with one of the most affecting
incidents in the history of the aboriginal population. It
was here that a battle was fought, in the autumn of 1774,
between the collected forces of the Shawanees, Mingoes,
and Delawares on one side, and a detachment of the Virginia
militia, on the other. In this battle, Logan, <i>the
friend of the whites</i>, avenged himself in a signal manner
of the injuries of one man, by whom all his women {18}
and children had been murdered. Notwithstanding his
intrepid conduct, the Indians were defeated, and sued for
peace; but Logan disdained to be seen among the suppliants.
He would not turn on his heel to save his life.
"For my country," said he, "I rejoice in the beams of
peace; but, do not harbour a thought that mine is the joy of
fear. Logan never felt fear. Who is there to mourn for
Logan! Not one." This story is eloquently related by<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64"></a>[pg064]</span>
Mr. Jefferson, in his "Notes on Virginia," and is familiar
to the recollection of all who have read that valuable
work.<a name="FNanchor_29" id="FNanchor_29"></a><a href="#Footnote_29" class="fnanchor">[018]</a></p>
<p>In the afternoon of the 8th, we encountered a tremendous
thunder-storm, in which our boat, in spite of all the
exertions we were able to make, was driven on shore; but
we fortunately escaped with little injury, losing only our
flag-staff with the lantern attached to it, and some other
articles of little importance. On the following day we
passed Maysville,<a name="FNanchor_30" id="FNanchor_30"></a><a href="#Footnote_30" class="fnanchor">[019]</a> a small town of Kentucky. On our
return to Philadelphia, in 1821, we were delayed some time
at this place; and taking advantage of the opportunity thus
afforded, we made an excursion into that beautiful agricultural
district, south-east of Maysville, about the large
village of Washington.<a name="FNanchor_31" id="FNanchor_31"></a><a href="#Footnote_31" class="fnanchor">[020]</a> The uplands here are extremely
fertile, and in an advanced state of cultivation. The disposition
of the surface resembles that in the most moderately
hilly parts of Pennsylvania; and to the same graceful
undulation of the landscape, the same pleasing alternation
of cultivated fields, with dense and umbrageous forests, is<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65"></a>[pg065]</span>
added an aspect of luxuriant fertility, surpassing any thing
we have seen eastward of the Alleghanies. Having prolonged
our walk many miles, we entered after sunset a
tall grove of elms and hickories; towards which we were
attracted by some unusual sounds. Directed by these, we
at length reached an open quadrangular area of several
acres, where the forest had been in part cleared away,
and much grass had sprung up. Here we found several
hundreds of people, part sitting {19} in tents and booths,
regularly arranged around the area, and lighted with
lamps, candles, and fires; part assembled about an elevated
station, listening to religious exhortations. The
night had now become dark, and the heavy gloom of the
forest, rendered more conspicuous by the feeble light of
the encampment, together with the apparent solemnity of
the great numbers of people, assembled for religious worship,
made considerable impression on our feelings.</p>
<p>On the 9th May, we arrived at Cincinnati.<a name="FNanchor_32" id="FNanchor_32"></a><a href="#Footnote_32" class="fnanchor">[021]</a> Since our
departure from Pittsburgh, Dr. Baldwin's illness had increased,
and he had now become so unwell, that some
delay appeared necessary on his account; as we wished
also for an opportunity of making some repairs and alterations
in the machinery of the boat, it was resolved to
remain at Cincinnati some days. Dr. Baldwin was accordingly
moved on shore, to the house of Mr. Glen, and
Dr. Drake was requested to attend him. Cincinnati is
the largest town on the Ohio. It is on the north bank of
the river, and the ground on which it stands is elevated,
rising gradually from the water's edge.<a name="FNanchor_33"
id="FNanchor_33"></a><a href="#Footnote_33"
class="fnanchor">[022]</a></p>
<p class="pgalone"><span class="xxpgn">
<a name="Page_66" id="Page_66"></a>[pg066]</span></p>
<p>Compact limestone appears here, in the bed of the Ohio,
and extends some distance in all directions. This limestone
has been used in paving the streets, for which purpose
its tabular fragments are placed on edge, as bricks
are sometimes used in flagging. The formation of limestone,
to which this rock belongs, is one of great extent,
occupying a large part of the country from the shores of
Lake Erie, to the southern boundary of the state of Tennessee.<a name="FNanchor_34" id="FNanchor_34"></a><a href="#Footnote_34" class="fnanchor">[023]</a>
It appears, however, to be occasionally interrupted,
or overlaid by fields of sandstone. It abounds in
casts, and {20} impressions of marine animals. An orthocerite,
in the museum of the college<a name="FNanchor_35" id="FNanchor_35"></a><a href="#Footnote_35" class="fnanchor">[024]</a> at Cincinnati, measures
near three feet in length. Very large specimens of
what has been considered lignite, have also been discovered
and parts of them deposited in that collection. We
saw here no remains of ammonites. Numerous other
species appear to be similar to those found in the limestone
of the Catskill and Hellebergh mountains.</p>
<p>The soil, which overlays the limestone of Cincinnati, is
a deep argillaceous loam, intermixed with much animal<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67"></a>[pg067]</span>
and vegetable matter. Vegetation is here luxuriant; and
many plants unknown eastward of the Alleghany mountains,
were constantly presenting themselves to our notice.
Two species of æsculus are common. One of these has a
nut as large as that of the Æ. hippocastanum, of the
Mediterranean, the common horse-chesnut of the gardens.</p>
<p>These nuts are round, and after a little exposure become
black, except in that part which originally formed the
point of attachment to the receptacle, which is an oblong
spot three-fourths of an inch in diameter; the whole bearing
some resemblance to the eyeball of a deer, or other
animal. Hence the name <i>buck-eye</i>, which is applied to
the tree. The several species of æsculus are confined
principally to the western states and territories. In allusion
to this circumstance, the indigenous backwoodsman
is sometimes called buck-eye, in distinction from the
numerous emigrants who are introducing themselves from
the eastern states. The opprobrious name of Yankee is
applied to these last, who do not always stand high in the
estimation of the natives of the south and west. Few of
these sectional prejudices are, however, to be discovered
in Ohio, the greater part of the population here having
been derived from New England. Cincinnati, which in
1810, contained 2500 inhabitants, is now said to number
about 12,000.<a name="FNanchor_36" id="FNanchor_36"></a><a href="#Footnote_36" class="fnanchor">[025]</a> Its plan is regular, and most of the buildings
are of {21} brick. The dwellings are neat and capacious,
and sometimes elegant.</p>
<p>The site of the town was heretofore an aboriginal station,
as appears from the numerous remains of ancient
works still visible. We forbear to give any account of<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68"></a>[pg068]</span>
these interesting monuments, as they have already been
repeatedly described.<a name="FNanchor_37" id="FNanchor_37"></a><a href="#Footnote_37" class="fnanchor">[026]</a></p>
<p>On Tuesday, the 18th, the weather becoming clear and
pleasant, Dr. Baldwin thought himself sufficiently recovered
to proceed on the voyage; accordingly, having assisted
him on board the boat, we left Cincinnati at ten o'clock.</p>
<p>During our stay at that place, we had been gratified by
the hospitable attentions of the inhabitants of the town.
Mr. Glen was unremitting in his exertions to promote the
recovery of Dr. Baldwin's health; to him, as well as to
Dr. Drake, and several other gentlemen of Cincinnati, all
the members of our party were indebted for many friendly
attentions.</p>
<p>Below Cincinnati the scenery of the Ohio becomes more
monotonous than above. The hills recede from the
river, and are less elevated. Heavy forests cover the
banks on either side, and intercept the view from all distant
objects. This is, however, somewhat compensated
by the magnificence of the forests themselves. Here the
majestic platanus attains its greatest dimensions, and the
snowy whiteness of its branches is advantageously contrasted
with the deep verdure of the cotton-wood, and other
trees which occur in the low grounds.</p>
<p>The occidental plane tree is, perhaps, the grandest of
the American forest trees, and little inferior, in any respect,
to the boasted plane tree of the Levant. The platanus
orientalis attains, in its native forests, a diameter of
from ten to sixteen feet. An American plane tree, which
we measured, on the bank of the Ohio, between Cincinnati
and the rapids at Louisville, was fourteen feet in diameter.<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69"></a>[pg069]</span>
One which stood, some years since, near the village
of {22} Marietta, was found, by M. Michaux, to measure
15<span class="fraction"><sup>7</sup>⁄<sub>10</sub></span> ft. in diameter, at twenty feet from the ground.<a name="FNanchor_38" id="FNanchor_38"></a><a href="#Footnote_38" class="fnanchor">[027]</a>
They often rise to an elevation of one hundred and fifty
feet. The branches are very large and numerous, forming
a spreading top, densely covered with foliage. Many
of those trees, which attain the greatest size, are decayed
in the interior of the trunk, long after the annual increase
continues to be added at the exterior circumference. The
growth of the American plane tree does not appear to be
very rapid. It was remarked by Humboldt, that in the
hot and damp lands of North America, between the Mississippi
and the Alleghany mountains, the growth of trees
is about one-fifth more rapid than in Europe, taking for
examples the platanus occidentalis, the liriodendron tulipifera,
and the cupressus disticha, all of which reach from
nine to fifteen feet in diameter. It is his opinion that the
growth in these trees does not exceed a foot in diameter in
ten years.<a name="FNanchor_39" id="FNanchor_39"></a><a href="#Footnote_39" class="fnanchor">[028]</a> As far as our observation has enabled us to
judge, this estimate rather exceeds than falls short of the
truth. This growth is greatly exceeded in rapidity by the
baobab, and other trees in the tropical parts of America;
also by the gigantic adansonia of the eastern continent,<a name="FNanchor_40" id="FNanchor_40"></a><a href="#Footnote_40" class="fnanchor">[029]</a>
and equalled, perhaps, by several trees in our own climate,
whose duration is less extended than that of those above
mentioned.<a name="FNanchor_41" id="FNanchor_41"></a>
<a href="#Footnote_41" class="fnanchor">[030]</a></p>
<p class="pgalone"><span class="xxpgn">
<a name="Page_70" id="Page_70"></a>[pg070]</span></p>
<p>The sycamore, or occidental plane tree, has been cultivated
for more than one hundred and eighty years in England,
yet it does not appear to have become entirely naturalized
there, as we are informed by President Smith,<a name="FNanchor_42" id="FNanchor_42"></a><a href="#Footnote_42" class="fnanchor">[031]</a>
that great numbers were killed by the severe frost of the
winters of 1810-11. In America this tree is very widely
distributed, and {23} extends northward beyond the forty-fifth
degree of north latitude. In the fertile alluvial lands
of Otter Creek, and other rivers which discharge into Lake
Champlain, the sycamore attains more than one-half the
magnitude which it is seen to reach in the most prolific
portions of the Mississippi valley; it appears, therefore,
that some other cause than the frigidity of the climate,
must have occasioned the destruction of the plane trees
in England, since it is well known that the winters of
Vermont and Lower Canada far surpass in severity
those of the island of Great Britain.</p>
<p>The fruit of the sycamore is the favourite food of the
paroquet, and large flocks of these gaily-plumed birds constantly
enliven the gloomy forests of the Ohio.</p>
<p>During the night of the 18th, the weather being clear,
we continued on our voyage, as is customary with most of
the steam-boats navigating the Ohio.</p>
<p>It was long since remarked by Mr. Schulz,<a name="FNanchor_43" id="FNanchor_43"></a><a href="#Footnote_43" class="fnanchor">[032]</a> and
considered by him as an inexplicable circumstance, that
the reflection, by night, of the image of the banks of the
Ohio, does not furnish an infallible guide to the middle of<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71"></a>[pg071]</span>
the bed of the river. Nothing is more manifest than that
the banks at different places, having different degrees of
elevation, and being sometimes naked, and sometimes covered
with very tall trees, must, of necessity, cast shadows
of different lengths, upon the surface of the water; consequently
that the luminous stripe along the middle of the
river, from the surface of which the sky and the stars are
reflected, must be greatly subject to irregularities in position
and direction. This circumstance often proves very
annoying to inexperienced pilots, who attempt to navigate
the Ohio, or any other river of similar character, by night,
as we have had occasion in many instances to experience.</p>
<p>On the morning of the 19th we arrived at Louisville<a name="FNanchor_44" id="FNanchor_44"></a><a href="#Footnote_44" class="fnanchor">[033]</a>
having passed, in the night, the boats containing {24} the
sixth regiment of infantry, then on their way to the Missouri.
At Louisville, we stopped to procure a pilot to
conduct our boat over the rapids. Two or three pilots
appointed pursuant to an act of the legislature of Kentucky,
reside at Louisville, always holding themselves in
readiness to go on board such boats as are about to descend
the rapids, and leaving them again at Shippingsport;
for which service they are entitled to receive two dollars
for each ark or raft.</p>
<p>At these rapids, called usually the falls of the Ohio, the
river descends about twenty-two feet, in a distance of less
than two miles. At times of high water an acceleration of
current, not usual in other parts of the river, is all that is
perceived in passing down this descent: at other times the
water is dashed and broken upon the rocky and uneven
bed of the channel, called the <i>Indian chute</i>, through which<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72"></a>[pg072]</span>
a great part of the water passes. The magnificence of a
cataract is, however, at no time displayed here; and it is
only in peculiar conditions of the atmosphere, that the
noise of the fall can be heard at the distance of one-fourth
of a mile from the bank of the river.</p>
<p>Large boats ascend the rapids at the time of the spring
floods, by the aid of a cable made fast to a tree, or some
other object above, and taken in by the capstan. In 1821,
the Maysville, a steam-boat of about two hundred tons,
was taken up, and had nearly reached the head of the rapid,
when the cable broke; and the boat swinging round,
was thrown against the rocks, in the bed of the river, and
placed in such a situation as to render hopeless all attempts
to get her off before the next annual rise of the water.
Arks and small barges descend, by the aid of skilful pilots,
for great part of the year. It is expected that the navigation
of this dangerous rapid will soon be rendered more
convenient, by canaling, which can be accomplished at a
very inconsiderable {25} expense. The direction of the
Ohio, above and below the rapids, is nearly from north-east
to south-west, but where the stream passes the rocky
obstruction occasioning the fall, it is a little deflected from
its course, making a bend towards the west. Thus a
point is formed on the south-eastern side projecting from
the elevated bank, which, from its present position,
would seem to indicate that the bed of the river had
changed its place, having formerly traversed the point
from north-east to south-west, in a direct line. In times
of high floods the water is, in part, discharged through
this old channel, and large boats are said to have ascended
by that route within a few years past.</p>
<p>On this point stands the small town of Shippingsport,<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73"></a>[pg073]</span>
at the foot of the rapids.<a name="FNanchor_45" id="FNanchor_45"></a><a href="#Footnote_45" class="fnanchor">[034]</a> The proposed canal will traverse
the point in the rear of this village. The obstacles
to be encountered in opening a canal at this place are but
trifling. The soil is firm and gravelly, being based on
horizontal strata of compact limestone, and fine argillaceous
sandstone.<a name="FNanchor_46" id="FNanchor_46"></a><a href="#Footnote_46" class="fnanchor">[035]</a></p>
<p>The sandstone, which is the rock of most common occurrence
about the rapids, very closely resembles that of
Pittsburgh. It is commonly of a compact texture, having
an argillaceous cement, with a laminated structure.
At Shippingsport, and at Clarksville,<a name="FNanchor_47" id="FNanchor_47"></a><a href="#Footnote_47" class="fnanchor">[036]</a> in Indiana, it is
succeeded by bituminous clay-slate. While we were waiting
at the rapids, several of the party made an excursion
to visit the boiling spring, at the foot of the Silver Creek
hills, in Indiana, at a little distance from New Albany.<a name="FNanchor_48" id="FNanchor_48"></a><a href="#Footnote_48" class="fnanchor">[037]</a>
This spring is small, discharging no water above the surface
of the ground. It is an artificial excavation in the
clayey bank of a small stream, called Fountain Creek. It
is filled to the level of the water in the creek, the spring
itself evidently discharging very little, if any water. That
which fills the basin is turbid, being kept in constant agitation
by the bubbles of inflammable air which rise through
it. The {26} smell of sulphuretted hydrogen is perceptible
at considerable distance about the spring; and a piece of
silver, held near the surface of the water, was quickly tarnished.<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74"></a>[pg074]</span>
The Silver Creek hills are of argillaceous sandstone,
and secondary clay-slate; and this spring seems to
be placed near the meeting of the two strata.</p>
<p>In the bed of the Ohio, opposite Shippingsport, is a
tabular mass of rocks, visible above water for great part
of the year, and called Corn Island.<a name="FNanchor_49" id="FNanchor_49"></a><a href="#Footnote_49" class="fnanchor">[038]</a> On the highest
parts of this, are remaining some small portions of the limestone
stratum, which appears in many places to have been
worn through, and removed by the river. Five or six
acres of the surface of this island are of the smooth compact
argillaceous sandrock before mentioned, lying horizontally,
and divided into squares and parallelograms by
the natural fissures. These fissures contain some soil
which supports, in the summer, a dense growth of herbaceous
plants. Among these, we noticed the hypericum
sphæcrocarpum of Michaux, (apparently not the plant
mentioned by Nuttall, under that name, which has been
noticed near Philadelphia, by Collins and others, but without
doubt that originally described by Michaux). Two
species of andropogon, the panicum virgatum, solanum
nigrum, polygala verticillata, leplanthus gramineus, chenopodium
botrys, &c. The lower part of the island is covered
with loose sand; bearing some small cotton-wood
and willow trees.</p>
<p>The unenclosed grounds, about Louisville and Shippingsport,<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75"></a>[pg075]</span>
are extensive, and afford pasturage to great
numbers of domestic animals. They are, however, much
overrun with luxuriant weeds. The datura strammonium,
which is common in every part of Ohio, is sometimes eaten
by sheep; and the spiny capsules of the seed, when about
half ripened, we have seen eaten with apparent avidity by
cows. In addition to this loathsome plant, the common
May-weed (anthemis cotula) has become abundant {27}
in all the waste-grounds, to the exclusion of the native
plants. A few of these, which keep their places with the
greatest obstinacy by the road sides, are the sida abutilon
and S. spinosa, and the verbena hastata; while the thistles,
chrysanthemums and Johnsworts, so common about old
fields in New England, are not to be met with. The
eleusine mucronata, of <i>Pursh</i>, is one of the most frequent
grasses along the streets.</p>
<p>The Silver Creek hills are elevated about one hundred and fifty
or two hundred feet above the level of the country in the rear
of Jeffersonville.<a name="FNanchor_50" id="FNanchor_50"></a><a
href="#Footnote_50" class="fnanchor">[039]</a> They form a
continuous range, crossing the country from north to south.
On the Kentucky side they constitute the commencement of a
rugged and barren district, called the <i>Knobs</i>, and extending
far to the south.<a name="FNanchor_51" id="FNanchor_51"></a><a
href="#Footnote_51" class="fnanchor">[040]</a> At some remote
period this range may have formed a barrier, extending across
what is now the immediate valley of the Ohio, and retarding
the retreat of the waters from the tract above the falls.<a
name="FNanchor_52" id="FNanchor_52"></a><a href="#Footnote_52"
class="fnanchor">[041]</a> Coal<span class="xxpgn"><a
name="Page_76" id="Page_76"></a>[pg076]</span> occurs frequently
in this range of hills, on the north side of the Ohio; quarries
have been opened near the Blue river, in Indiana, about the two
Pidgeons, opposite the mouth of Green river, and in various
other places.<a name="FNanchor_53" id="FNanchor_53"></a><a
href="#Footnote_53" class="fnanchor">[042]</a></p>
<p>The larger steam-boats which run on the Mississippi, and the
Ohio, ascend usually no farther than Shippingsport; and several of
them remain at this place, during several months of the summer,
while the water is too low to admit their passing up and down the
rivers. This time it is often necessary to spend in repairs of
various kinds. The high steam-engines require frequent repairs,
and in the difficult navigation of the Mississippi the hulks
of vessels are often injured. It frequently happens that the
boats built at Pittsburgh, and other places near the sources of
the Ohio, are, within three or four years after they {28} are
launched, in a condition to require the planking of the hulk to
be replaced with new timber. These boats are usually planked with
the upland white oak: we have been informed that such as are built
lower down on the river, and of timber found in the low grounds,
are more durable. <span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_77"
id="Page_77"></a>[pg077]</span></p>
<h2 title="Chapter II"><a name="Chapter_II" id="Chapter_II"></a>
<span class="smaller">{29}</span> CHAPTER II</h2>
<p class="chaphead">The Ohio below the Rapids at Louisville—Ascent of the
Mississippi from the mouth of the Ohio to St. Louis.<a
name="FNanchor_54" id="FNanchor_54"></a><a href="#Footnote_54"
class="fnanchor">[043]</a></p>
<p class="toclink"><a href="#CONTENTS_OF_VOLUME_XIV">toc</a></p>
<p>Our small boat descended over the rapids without
injury; and having taken on board some wood near New
Albany, we proceeded on our voyage, with a pressure of
steam equalling one hundred pounds to the square inch,
upon all parts of the engine exposed to its immediate operation.
This enabled us to descend, at the rate of ten miles
per hour. A small island in the Ohio, about twenty-three
miles below the rapids, is called Flint Island, from the
great numbers of fragments of flints, broken arrow points,
and various instruments of stone, heretofore used by the
Indians, which are found there on turning up the soil.
This island has probably been the favourite residence of
some tribe, particularly expert in the manufacture of those
rude implements, with which the wants of the aboriginal
Americans were supplied. The stone employed in these
manufactures appears to have been, in most instances,
that compact flint, which occurs in nodular masses, in the
secondary limestones. In one instance we met with a triangular
prism, of a very hard and compact aggregate of
felspar, and hornblende, unlike any rock we have seen in
the valley of the Mississippi. This prism was about five
inches long, with faces of about {30} an inch in width, and
was perforated, from end to end, forming a complete
tube, with an orifice about half an inch in diameter, and<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78"></a>[pg078]</span>
smoothly polished, both within and without. We were
never able to discover to what use this implement could
have been applied; nor do we recollect to have met with
accounts of any thing analogous to it, except, perhaps,
those "tubes of a very hard stone" mentioned by the
Jesuit Venegas, as used by the natives of California, in
their treatment of the sick.<a name="FNanchor_55" id="FNanchor_55"></a><a href="#Footnote_55" class="fnanchor">[044]</a> That it may have passed,
by means of the intercourse of various tribes of Indians,
from the primitive mountains of California to the rapids of
the Ohio, is not, perhaps, improbable. Indirect methods of
communication may have conveyed the productions of one
part of the continent to another very remote from it. The
savages of the Missouri receive an intoxicating bean from
their neighbours on the south and west; these again must
probably procure it from other tribes inhabiting, or occasionally
visiting, the tropical regions.</p>
<p>In the Philadelphia museum are many Indian pipes of
that red indurated clay, found only (as far as hitherto
known) on the Pipe Stone branch of the Little Sioux river
of the Missouri; one of these, however, was found on the
banks of the Rio de la Plata, in South America: several
were found in the territory now called New England, and
in the north-eastern part of the continent.</p>
<p>On the 26th we passed the mouth of the Wabash, and<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79"></a>[pg079]</span>
arrived at Shawaneetown,<a name="FNanchor_56" id="FNanchor_56"></a><a href="#Footnote_56" class="fnanchor">[045]</a> ten miles below. Near the
mouth of the Wabash, an accident happened to the engine,
which rendered it necessary for us to drift down, until we
should arrive at some place where repairs might be made.
Some of the gentlemen of the party determined to go on
shore, and walk to Shawaneetown. In swimming across
a creek, {31} three miles above that place, Lieutenant
Graham dropped his rifle in the water, and having spent
some time in attempts to recover it, did not arrive at
Shawaneetown until after the boat had reached that place.</p>
<p>On the 27th, several of the party went out to hunt in
the forests and swamps, north-west of Shawaneetown. At
about four miles' distance from the Ohio, they arrived at
the banks of a small pond, three miles long, and only
three or four hundred yards wide. Here they killed a
turkey; and some small birds. On the bank of the pond,
was found a specimen of the Lake Erie tortoise,<a name="FNanchor_57" id="FNanchor_57"></a><a href="#Footnote_57" class="fnanchor">[046]</a> depositing
its eggs in the sand, at about twenty yards' distance
from the water. It had made, with its feet, a hole in the
sand, two inches in diameter and four inches in depth,
enlarging towards the bottom to three inches. This species
occurs frequently in the pools and stagnant waters
along the Ohio. We first met with it near the rapids at
Louisville. Among other birds, we noticed about Shawaneetown,
the pileated woodpecker, the minute tern, numerous
flocks of the psittacus caroliniensis, two broods of
young wood duck, some gulls, and semipalmated sandpipers.
The terns appear to be attracted hither by great<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80"></a>[pg080]</span>
numbers of a species of phryganea, with which we found
the stomachs of some of them filled. The semipalmated
sandpipers were in large flocks, and did not appear stationary.</p>
<p>We left Shawaneetown at twelve o'clock on the 28th, and
stopped three miles below, to take in wood; then proceeding
forward, at four <span class="smcap">P. M.</span> we ran aground on a sand
bar, seven miles above the "Cave Inn," or "House of
Nature."<a name="FNanchor_58" id="FNanchor_58"></a><a href="#Footnote_58" class="fnanchor">[047]</a> After much exertion, by means of anchors
and poles, with the aid of the engine, and all the men, who
were under the necessity of jumping into the river, we at
length {32} succeeded in getting her off, and ran down to
the cave, where we lay by for the night.</p>
<p>Early the next morning, we went to visit the cave, of
the entrance to which two views were sketched by Mr.
Seymour. It is a perpendicular fissure, extending about
one hundred and sixty feet into the horizontal limestone
cliffs, which here form the north bank of the river. At
times of high water, the Ohio flows in, and fills the cave
nearly to its roof. In this cave, it is said, great numbers
of large bones were some time ago found, but we saw no
remains of any thing of this kind. Impressions and casts
of the shells of submarine animals are seen in the rocks,
forming the sides of the cave, as in all the strata of compact
limestone, in this region. The organic remains here,
do not appear to be so numerous as those of the rocks at
the falls, and at Cincinnati; and are much less distinct,
and visible in the fracture; indeed the fracture generally
exhibits to the eye no vestige of organic remains. It is
upon the surface only, and more especially in such parts<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81"></a>[pg081]</span>
of it as are in a certain stage of decomposition, that they
are at all to be distinguished.</p>
<p>As far as we could discover, they consist chiefly of the
caryophyllæ, similar to the radiated species, so common
at the falls of Ohio; of the encrinus, but of this our specimens
were not so perfect as to enable us to determine the
analogy. Numerous other remains were exhibited, but
not sufficiently characterized to be referred to their proper
places in the system. The top of the cliff, into which this
fissure opens, is said to be the favourite haunt of great
numbers of birds of prey. This is not improbable, as
many hawks and birds of prey always choose high and inaccessible
cliffs to build their nests in. We saw about
the tops of these rocks, only one pair of hawks, which we
took to be of the red-shouldered species, (falco lineatus,)
but a heavy rain, which commenced soon after we had
ascended, prevented {33} us from procuring a specimen.
About the cave, we found some fragments of pottery,
arrow points, and other articles of Indian manufacture.</p>
<p>Near Shawaneetown are extensive salt manufactories,
at a place heretofore called United States' Saline, affording
employment and a source of trade to a part of the inhabitants
of that village. Common salt, with the nitrates of
lime, potash, &c. occur in great plenty, in connexion with
the horizontal limestones and sandstones on the Ohio.
Of these we subjoin some account, from the mineralogical
report of Mr. Jessup.<a name="FNanchor_59" id="FNanchor_59"></a>
<a href="#Footnote_59" class="fnanchor">[048]</a></p>
<p class="pgalone"><span class="xxpgn">
<a name="Page_82" id="Page_82"></a>[pg082]</span></p>
<p>On the 29th of May we passed the mouths of the Cumberland
and Tennessee, the two largest rivers, tributary to
the Ohio. At the mouth of the Cumberland is a little
village called Smithland; where, for a considerable part of
the year, such goods are deposited as are designed for
Nashville and other places on the Cumberland.</p>
<p>The Cumberland and Tennessee rivers are, for many
miles, nearly parallel in direction, and at no great distance
apart. Between them are some low sandstone hills; but,
we believe, no lofty range of mountains, as has been<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83"></a>[pg083]</span>
sometimes represented. About these hills, also, in the low
ridges north of the Ohio, we found the sandstone, which
appears to be the basis rock, often overlaid with extensive
beds of a pudding-stone, wherein pebbles of white, yellow,
and variously coloured quartz, are united in a cement
highly tinged by oxide of iron; extensive fields of compact
limestone also occur in the same connexion.</p>
<p>About half way between the mouth of the Cumberland
and Tennessee, near the old deserted settlement originally
called Smithland,<a name="FNanchor_60" id="FNanchor_60"></a><a href="#Footnote_60" class="fnanchor">[049]</a> are several large catalpa trees. They<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84"></a>[pg084]</span>
do not, however, appear to be native; nor have we here, or
elsewhere, been able to discover any confirmation of the
opinion, that this tree is indigenous to any part of the
United States.</p>
<p>It is here called <i>petalfra</i>, which, as well as catalpa, {34}
the received appellation, may be a corruption from Catawba,
the name of the tribe by whom, according to the
suggestion of Mr. Nuttall, the tree may have been introduced.
Following the directions of the Pittsburgh navigator,<a name="FNanchor_61" id="FNanchor_61"></a><a href="#Footnote_61" class="fnanchor">[050]</a>
we kept near the left shore, below the Cave Inn;
by which means we again ran our boat aground, on a
sand-bar, where we spent a considerable part of the night
in the most laborious exertions. These were at length
crowned with success; and having the boat once more
afloat, we proceeded with greater caution.</p>
<p>On the 30th, we arrived at a point a little above the
mouth of Cash river, where a town has been laid out,
called America.<a name="FNanchor_62" id="FNanchor_62"></a><a href="#Footnote_62" class="fnanchor">[051]</a> It is on the north bank of the Ohio,
about eleven miles from the Mississippi, and occupies the
first heights on the former, secure from the inundation of
both these rivers (if we except a small area three and a
half miles below, where there are three Indian mounds,
situated on a tract containing about half an acre above
high-water mark). The land on both sides of the Ohio,<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85"></a>[pg085]</span>
below this place, is subject to be overflowed to various
depths, from six to fourteen feet in time of floods; and on
the south side, the flat lands extend four or five miles
above, separated from the high country by lakes and
marshes. The aspect of the country, in and about the
town, is rolling or moderately hilly, being the commencement
of the high lands between the two rivers above mentioned;
below it, however, the land is flat, having the character
of the low bottoms of the Ohio. The growth is principally
cotton-wood, sycamore, walnut, hickory, maple,
oak, &c. The soil is first-rate, and well suited to the cultivation
of all products common to a climate of 37 deg.
N. lat. From the extensive flat, or bottom, in its neighbourhood,
and the heavy growth of timber which here
generally prevails, it is probable that the place will be
unhealthy, till extensive clearings are made in its vicinity.</p>
<p>This position may be considered as the head of constant
{35} navigation for the Mississippi. The Mississippi,
from New Orleans to the Ohio, is navigable for
boats of the largest size; and America may be considered
as the head of constant as well as heavy navigation. Ice
is seldom to be found in the Mississippi as low down as
the mouth of the Ohio, and never in so large quantities
as to oppose any serious obstruction to the navigation.</p>
<p>The navigation of the Ohio has a serious impediment
about four and a half miles above the town, occasioned
by a limestone bar extending across the river, called the
Grand Chain. This bar is impassable in the lowest stage
of the water, and will not admit boats of any considerable
burden, except in the higher stages.</p>
<p>The Mississippi has, in like manner, two bars, called the
Big and Little Chain, which appear to be a continuation<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86"></a>[pg086]</span>
of the same range of rocks as that in the Ohio, extending
across the point of land situated between the two rivers.
These bars are situated a little above the Tyawapatia
Bottom, about thirty miles above the mouth of the Ohio,
and in low water have but a moderate depth of water
across them; which, added to the rapidity of the current,
occasions a serious obstacle to the navigation.</p>
<p>Boats suited to the navigation of both rivers above the
bars here specified, should be of inferior size; those for the
Mississippi not exceeding one hundred tons burden, and
those for the Ohio from fifty to seventy-five tons.</p>
<p>Any position on the Mississippi in the neighbourhood of
the Ohio would be objectionable, for the following reasons:—First,
The rapidity of the current, which renders it
difficult to find a safe and commodious landing, there
being no rocky-bound shore within thirty miles above and
a far greater distance below the point. The Iron Banks,<a name="FNanchor_63" id="FNanchor_63"></a><a href="#Footnote_63" class="fnanchor">[052]</a>
seventeen miles below the mouth of the Ohio, have been
thought by some an eligible position for the extensive
business, {36} which, it is admitted by all, must centre in
this neighbourhood. But at this place there is no safe
landing; and besides, the banks are composed of layers of
sand and clay alternating with each other, of an acclivity
nearly perpendicular, and annually wearing away by the
current of the river, which sets strongly against them.
These banks are elevated about one hundred and thirty
feet above the common level of the river, and are insurmountable,
except by a circuitous route, leading from the
river a considerable distance above and below them.
<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_87"
id="Page_87"></a>[pg087]</span></p>
<p>Second, There are no positions on the Mississippi, except
the Iron and Chalk Banks, for a great distance below
the Ohio, secure from inundation. The bottom directly
opposite the mouth of the Ohio, on the west side of the
Mississippi is elevated a little above high water; but as it
is an alluvial shore, having no permanent foundation, and
the banks often falling in, it affords no conveniences or
security as a place of business.</p>
<p>Third, No places of anchorage for boats of heavy burden
are to be found, except in the main channel of the river,
where they would be exposed to drift-wood, great quantities
of which are brought down in times of freshet; and
when borne along with the rapid current of the river, occasion
serious danger to boats lying in its way.</p>
<p>The town of America is almost entirely exempt from
any of these objections;—although it has not a rocky
foundation, (which may be said of most of the towns on
the Ohio,) the current of the river is so gentle, that no
such guard against the undermining and wasting away of
the banks is required. In case of an excessive flood, or
an unusual quantity of floating ice (which may possibly
be apprehended in remarkably cold seasons), the mouth
of Cash river, five miles below the town, is a harbour in
which boats may lie in perfect security.<a name="FNanchor_64" id="FNanchor_64"></a><a href="#Footnote_64" class="fnanchor">[053]</a></p>
<p>We would not encourage the idea, that the site {37} now
fixed upon as a town is exclusively the point where business<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88"></a>[pg088]</span>
is to be done; but that the town will eventually extend
along on that side of the river about four miles, to the Big
Chain above described.</p>
<p>In view of the great extent of inland navigation centring
at this place, and the incalculable amount of products to
be realized, at no distant period, from the cultivation of
the rich vallies and fertile plains of the west, a great proportion
of which must find a market here, no doubt can
be entertained that it will eventually become a place of as
great wealth and importance as almost any in the United
States.</p>
<p>In the afternoon of the 30th we arrived at the mouth of
the Ohio.</p>
<p>This beautiful river has a course of one thousand and
thirty-three miles, through a country surpassed in fertility
of soil by none in the United States. Except in high floods,
its water is transparent, its current gentle, and nearly uniform.
For more than half of its course its banks are high,
and its bed gravelly. With the exception of about two
miles at the rapids, at Louisville, it has sufficient depth of
water, for a part of the year, to float vessels of 300 tons
burthen to Cincinnati. The country which it washes
may, with propriety, be considered under two divisions.
The first, extending from its head at Pittsburgh to the
little town of Rockport,<a name="FNanchor_65" id="FNanchor_65"></a><a href="#Footnote_65" class="fnanchor">[054]</a> about 150 miles below the falls
or rapids at Louisville, is hilly. This district forms a portion
of one of the sides of that great formation of secondary
rocks, which occupies the basin of the Mississippi and its
tributaries. This formation, like others of the same
period, is rough, with small elevations, which are most<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89"></a>[pg089]</span>
considerable on its borders, and diminish in proportion
as we approach nearer its central parts.</p>
<p>Compact limestone, and sandstone of several varieties, are
the rocks which invariably occur along that portion of the Ohio
we are now considering. Sandstone of a light gray or ashen
colour, of a compact {38} texture, an argillaceous cement,
and a slaty or lamellated structure, is the most abundant,
and occupies the lowest points which we have hitherto been
able to examine. This rock frequently contains alternating
beds of coal, bituminous shale, and its accompanying minerals.
The beds of compact limestone, which occur in this region,
usually rest upon the sandstone just mentioned. Considered
as a stratum, its distribution is the reverse of that of the
sandstone. It occupies the central and least elevated portions
of the formation; and on the borders where the sandstone is
most abundant, the limestone is of less extent and of more
uncommon occurrence. These remarks are applicable to the hilly
district on the upper portion of the Ohio river. From Pittsburgh
to Cincinnati, the prospect from the river is that of hills
of moderate elevation, sometimes rocky and abrupt, but often
sufficiently gradual in their ascent to admit of cultivation
to their summits. Their character, as to extent, direction,
&c. seems to be determined by the number, direction, and
magnitude of the streams which traverse them. They are the
remains of what was formerly a continuous and nearly horizontal
stratum, with a large deposit of superincumbent soil, which the
flowing of water, during the lapse of ages, has channelled and
excavated to its present form. These hills diminish in altitude
as you approach the falls from above; there they again rise to
a height nearly equal to what they attain at the head<span
class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90"></a>[pg090]</span>
of the river, and from thence gradually diminish, until they
disappear, a little above the confluence of the Ohio and Green<a
name="FNanchor_66" id="FNanchor_66"></a><a href="#Footnote_66"
class="fnanchor">[055]</a> rivers. Here commences the low country,
which extends west to the Mississippi. It is characterized by
the great extent of the river alluvion, the increased width and
diminished velocity of the stream. The river banks are low,
but thickly wooded with sycamore, cotton-wood, river maple,
the planera aquatica, cypress, &c. The river hills, which
terminate the alluvial district, {39} are distant and low;
and it often happens that the surface descends on both sides,
from the immediate banks of the river to these hills. Hence,
when the waters of the river are sufficiently swollen to flow
over its banks, they inundate extensive tracts; from which
they cannot return to the channel of the river, and are left
stagnant during the summer months, poisoning the atmosphere with
noxious exhalations. Many of these inundated tracts have a soil
of uncommon fertility, which it is probable will hereafter be
recovered from the dominion of the river by dikes or levees.</p>
<p>The beach or sloping part of the immediate bank of the
Ohio, throughout its whole extent, is of rather gradual
ascent, and covered with timber a considerable distance
below high-water mark. The average rapidity of the
current of the Ohio is about two and a half miles per
hour, and the descent of its surface nine inches per mile,
as estimated by Dr. Drake of Cincinnati. The annual
inundations happen in the spring. The range between
extreme high and low water, in the upper part of the river,
is more than 60 feet; but below, where it is not confined
by high banks, it is much less.
<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_91"
id="Page_91"></a>[pg091]</span></p>
<p>About the falls of Ohio, the cane, (myegia macrosperma
of Persoon,) begins to be seen, and increases in
quantity thence westward to the Mississippi. The "Cave
Inn Rock," or "House of Nature," which we have before
mentioned, is an immense cavern penetrating horizontally
into a stratum of compact limestone, which forms the river
bank for some distance above Golconda in Illinois. Its
entrance is a large and regular arch, placed immediately
on the brink of the river, and a similar form is preserved
in some degree through its whole extent. The Battery
Rock is a high mural precipice of the same stratum, running
in a straight line, and forming the northern bank of
the river which washes its base. The face of this precipice
is smooth and naked, and it is surmounted {40} by a
heavy growth of timber. This limestone is compact, entirely
horizontal in its position, and filled with organic
remains. It is traversed by veins containing sulphuret
of lead; and at several places near Golconda, this is accompanied
by fluat of lime, in beautiful yellow and violet-coloured
crystals. Fluat of lime is also found disseminated
in small and irregular masses throughout the rock. At
Golconda, six miles below the cave, a coarse gray flinty
sandstone is found, extending some distance to the west.
This rock forms broad hills on the Kentucky side, between
the Cumberland and Tennessee rivers; where it abounds
in iron ore of several kinds. Perhaps these hills ought to
be considered as a spur from the Cumberland hills. At
the mouth of the Tennessee river, is a locality of the
columnar argillaceous oxide of iron, which rises from the
surface in pyramidal and columnar masses, somewhat
resembling the cypress knees.</p>
<p>An extensive tract of land between the Tennessee and<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92"></a>[pg092]</span>
Mississippi rivers, included in the recent purchase from
the Cherokees,<a name="FNanchor_67" id="FNanchor_67"></a><a href="#Footnote_67" class="fnanchor">[056]</a> is rocky and broken, abounding in ores of
iron and lead, and probably some other minerals. We
have seen a specimen of sulphuret of antimony, in possession
of an inhabitant, who being a sort of alchymist,
greatly delighting in mystery, thought it imprudent to
reveal the secret of its particular locality. It is to be
hoped, future and more minute examinations than we had
the opportunity of making, may hereafter detect valuable
mineral depositions in this tract.</p>
<p>The confluence of the Ohio and Mississippi, is in
latitude 37° 22′ 9″ north, according to the observations of
Mr. Ellicott, and in longitude 88° 50′ 42″ west, from Greenwich.<a name="FNanchor_68" id="FNanchor_68"></a><a href="#Footnote_68" class="fnanchor">[057]</a>
The lands about the junction of these two great
rivers are low, consisting of recent alluvion, and covered
with dense forests. At the time of our journey, the spring
floods having subsided in the Ohio, this quiet and gentle
river {41} seemed to be at once swallowed up, and lost in
the rapid and turbulent current of the Mississippi. Floods
of the Mississippi, happening when the Ohio is low, occasion
a reflux of the waters of the latter, perceptible at
Fort Massac, more than thirty miles above. It is also
asserted, that the floods in the Ohio occasion a retardation
in the current of the Mississippi, as far up as the Little
Chain, ten miles below Cape Girardeau.<a name="FNanchor_69" id="FNanchor_69"></a><a href="#Footnote_69" class="fnanchor">[058]</a> The navigation
of the Mississippi above the mouth of the Ohio, also
that of the Ohio, is usually obstructed for a part of the
winter by large masses of floating ice. The boatmen<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93"></a>[pg093]</span>
observe that soon after the ice from the Ohio enters the
Mississippi, it becomes so much heavier by arresting the
sands, always mixed with the waters of that river, that it
soon sinks to the bottom. After ascending the Mississippi
about two miles, we came to an anchor, and went on
shore on the eastern side. The forests here are deep and
gloomy, swarming with innumerable mosquitoes, and the
ground overgrown with enormous nettles. There is no
point near the confluence of the Ohio and Mississippi,
from which a distant prospect can be had. Standing in
view of the junction of these magnificent rivers, meeting
almost from opposite extremities of the continent, and each
impressed with the peculiar character of the regions from
which it descends, we seem to imagine ourselves capable
of comprehending at one view all that vast region between
the summits of the Alleghanies and of the Rocky Mountains,
and feel a degree of impatience at finding all our
prospects limited by an inconsiderable extent of low
muddy bottom lands, and the unrelieved, unvaried, gloom
of the forest.</p>
<p>Finding it necessary to renew the packing of the piston
in the steam-engine, which operation would require some
time, most of the gentlemen of the {42} party were dispersed
on shore in pursuit of their respective objects, or
engaged in hunting. Deer, turkeys, and beaver are still
found in plenty in the low grounds, along both sides of
the Mississippi; but the annoyance of the mosquitoes and
nettles preventing the necessary caution and silence in
approaching the haunts of these animals, our hunting was
without success.</p>
<p>We were gratified to observe many interesting plants,
and among them several of the beautiful family of the<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94"></a>[pg094]</span>
orchidæ,<a name="FNanchor_70" id="FNanchor_70"></a><a href="#Footnote_70" class="fnanchor">[059]</a> particularly the orchis spectabile, so common
in the mountainous parts of New England.</p>
<p>The progress of our boat against the heavy current of
the Mississippi, was of necessity somewhat slow. Steam-boats
in ascending are kept as near the shore as the depth
of water will admit; and ours often approached so closely
as to give such of the party as wished, an opportunity to
jump on shore. On the first of June, several gentlemen
of the party went on shore, six miles below the settlement
of Tyawapatia bottom, and walked up to that place
through the woods. They passed several Indian encampments,
which appeared to have been recently tenanted.
Under one of the wigwams they saw pieces of honey-comb,
and several sharpened sticks, that had been used
to roast meat upon: on a small tree near by was suspended
the lower jaw-bone of a bear. Soon after leaving these
they came to another similar camp, where they found a
Shawanee Indian and his squaw, with four children, the
youngest lashed to a piece of board, and leaned against a
tree.</p>
<p>The Indian had recently killed a deer, which they purchased
of him for one dollar and fifty cents—one-third
more than is usually paid to white hunters. They afterwards
met with another encampment, where were several
families. These Indians have very little acquaintance with
the English language, and appeared reluctant to use the
few words they {43} knew. The squaws wore great numbers<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95"></a>[pg095]</span>
of trinkets, such as silver arm-bands and large earrings.
Some of the boys had pieces of lead tied in various
parts of the hair. They were encamped near the Mississippi,
for the purpose of hunting on the islands. Their village
is on Apple Creek, ten miles from Cape Girardeau.</p>
<p>June 2d. As it was only ten miles to Cape Girardeau,
and the progress of the boat extremely tedious, several of
the party, taking a small supply of provisions, went on
shore, intending to walk to that place.</p>
<p>Above the settlement of Tyawapatia, and near Cape à
la Bruche,<a name="FNanchor_71" id="FNanchor_71"></a><a href="#Footnote_71" class="fnanchor">[060]</a> is a ledge of rocks, stretching across the Mississippi,
in a direct line, and in low water forming a serious
obstacle to the navigation. These rocks are of limestone,
and mark the commencement of the hilly country
on the Mississippi. Here the landscape begins to have
something of the charm of distant perspective. We seem
released from the imprisonment of the deep monotonous
forest, and can occasionally overlook the broad hills of
Apple Creek, and the Au Vaise,<a name="FNanchor_72"
id="FNanchor_72"></a><a href="#Footnote_72" class="fnanchor">[061]</a> or Muddy river of Illinois,
diversified with a few scattered plantations, and some
small natural meadows. <span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_96"
id="Page_96"></a>[pg096]</span></p>
<p>About five miles above Cape Girardeau we found the
steam-boat Jefferson, destined for the Missouri. She had
been detained some time waiting for castings which were
on board the Western Engineer. Several other steam-boats,
with stores for the troops about to ascend the Missouri,
had entered that river, and were waiting to be overtaken
by the Jefferson and the Calhoun, which last we had
left at the rapids of the Ohio. On the 3d of June we
passed that insular rock in the middle of the Mississippi,
called the Grand Tower.<a name="FNanchor_73"
id="FNanchor_73"></a><a href="#Footnote_73" class="fnanchor">[062]</a> It is about one hundred and
fifty feet high, and two hundred and fifty in diameter.
Between it and the right shore is a {44} channel of about
one hundred and fifty yards in width, with a deep and
rapid current.</p>
<p>In the summer of 1673, Father Marquette and M. Joliet
descended the Mississippi, probably as far as the mouth of
the Arkansa. Their narrative contains sufficient evidence
that they passed the mouth of the Missouri, the Grand
Tower, the mouth of the Ohio, &c. As their work may
not be easily accessible to many of our readers, we subjoin,
in a note, an interesting passage, in which these
objects are mentioned.<a name="FNanchor_74" id="FNanchor_74"></a>
<a href="#Footnote_74" class="fnanchor">[063]</a></p>
<p class="pgalone"><span class="xxpgn">
<a name="Page_97" id="Page_97"></a>[pg097]</span></p>
<p>The strata of sandstone containing the extensive beds of
coal which have been explored, about the Muddy river of
Illinois, are here divided transversely by the bed of the
Mississippi. The Grand Tower, the precipice opposite
the mouth of the Obrazo,<a name="FNanchor_75" id="FNanchor_75"></a><a href="#Footnote_75" class="fnanchor">[064]</a> containing the singular cavity
called the Devil's Oven, the Cornice Rock, and other remarkable
cliffs, are monuments indicating the great extent
to which the Mississippi has channelled its bed in these
strata of horizontal sandstone.</p>
<p>The Grand Tower, from its form and situation, strongly
suggests the idea of a work of art. It is not impossible<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98"></a>[pg098]</span>
that a bridge may be constructed here, for which this rock
shall serve as a pier. The shores, on both sides, are of
substantial and permanent rocks, which undoubtedly extend
across, forming the bed of the river. It is probable,
however, that the ledge of rocks called the Two Chains,
extending down to Cape à la Bruche, presents greater
facilities for the construction of a bridge than this point,
as the high lands there approach nearer the river, and are
less broken than in the neighbourhood of the Grand
Tower. The Ohio would also admit of a bridge at the
chains, which appear to be a continuation of the range of
rocks here mentioned, crossing that river fifteen miles
above its confluence with the Mississippi. We look forward
to the time when these great works will be completed.</p>
<p>{45} Compact and sparry limestones are frequent in this
region; but all the rocks seem to be acted upon with great
rapidity by currents of water. The country on the east
side of the Mississippi, back of Fort Chartres, and about
the river St. Mary, is much broken by sink holes, having
the form of a funnel, and occasioned, probably, by the
action of subterraneous streams of water finding their way
through the friable sandstones, which underlay the deep
and fertile soils in those places. We passed in succession
the mouths of the river St. Mary, opposite to which is the
fine settlement of the Bois Broule bottoms; the Ocoa, or
Kaskaskia river; the St. Lora, a handsome stream, from
the west; and the Gabaree Creek, on which stands the old
French town of St. Genevieve.<a name="FNanchor_76" id="FNanchor_76"></a><a href="#Footnote_76" class="fnanchor">[065]</a> The navigation of the<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99"></a>[pg099]</span>
Mississippi, above the mouth of the Ohio, is at all times
difficult. The current is considerably accelerated by the
descent of the river over the rocky traverses which cross its
bed. At times of low water, innumerable sand-bars occur
in various parts of the channel, rendering the navigation
extremely precarious.</p>
<p>A little below the mouth of the Kaskaskia, is a creek
called the Saline, entering on the west side. A grant of a
tract of land, one league square, was here made by the
Spanish government, in favour of a Frenchman named
Pegreau, the founder of the deserted town called New
Bourbon.<a name="FNanchor_77" id="FNanchor_77"></a><a href="#Footnote_77" class="fnanchor">[066]</a> The tract included a valuable brine spring,
near the mouth of the creek. The proprietor built a house
near the bank of the Mississippi, where he resided for some
time, and carried on a manufacture of salt; but having
occasion to go to France, he rented his works to a man,
who for want of funds, or for some other reason, failed to
keep them in operation. After the transfer of Louisiana
to the United States' Government, this grant, among
others, became an object of speculation; and advantage
being taken of Pegreau's absence, the worthless tenant was
instigated {46} to prosecute his landlord for breach of contract,
and by a legal process recovered damages to the
amount of nine thousand dollars, for the disbursement
of which the property was sold, and fell into the hands
of the present proprietors.</p>
<p>At the mouth of the Kaskaskia river, on the east bank<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100"></a>[pg100]</span>
of the Mississippi, a town has been recently commenced,
called Portland. The high lands approach here to the
brink of the river, affording an elevated and advantageous
site. The landing is said to be good; and there is reason
to expect that Portland will soon rival the old town of
Kaskaskia, the present seat of a great portion of the mercantile
business in this part of Illinois.<a name="FNanchor_78" id="FNanchor_78"></a><a href="#Footnote_78" class="fnanchor">[067]</a></p>
<p>On the 5th the wind blew from the south-east, and with
the aid of sails, we were enabled to ascend the river with
considerable rapidity. As we were proceeding briskly
forward, our boat struck upon one of those concealed
trunks of trees so frequent in the Mississippi, and soon
afterwards we discovered that a leak had occurred, which
made it necessary for us to lie by. By the constant use of
the pumps during the remainder of the day, and the
following night, we were able to prevent the water from
gaining further upon us; and the next day, having discovered
the leak, we raised the stern of the boat, by
means of a pair of shears, and succeeded in repairing the
injury.</p>
<p>On the beach, opposite the place where we lay by for
these repairs, was a large flock of pelicans, which remained
in sight for several hours. We had met with some wild
geese; and a swan, which we saw was unable to fly,
having at that time cast its feathers. The yellow-breasted
chat, chuck-wills-widow, the falco haliatus, the kingfisher,<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101"></a>[pg101]</span>
bank swallow, and numerous other birds, occurred.</p>
<p>At the mouth of the Kaskaskia river, on the east side of
the Mississippi, commences the celebrated valley called the
American Bottom, extending along {47} the eastern bank
of the river last mentioned to the Piasa hills, four miles
above the mouth of the Missouri. It is several miles in
width, and has a soil of astonishing fertility, consisting of
comparatively recent depositions from the river. It has all
the disadvantages usually attending tracts of recent river
alluvion, the most valuable parts of it being liable to be
swept away by the current of the Mississippi, and its surface
descending from the brink of the river to the stagnant
pools and lagoons, at the outskirts of the valley. But the
inexhaustible fertility of its soil makes amends for the insalubrity
of the air, and the inconveniences of a flat and
marshy situation; and this valley is undoubtedly destined
to become one of the most populous parts of America. We
were formerly shown here a field that had been cultivated,
without manure, one hundred years in succession, and
which, when we saw it (in August, 1819) was covered with
a very luxuriant growth of corn.</p>
<p>The town of Kaskaskia, the villages of Prairie de Roches,
Kahokia, Prairie du Pont, Harrisonville, and Fort Chartres,
are situate in this tract. Some of them are in a flourishing
condition. Fort Chartres, which was built by the French
government, at the expense of one million and a half of dollars,
stood near the bank of the river, about twenty miles from
Kaskaskia. Not long after they were erected, a part of the
works were undermined by the washing of the river; since which
time the whole has<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_102"
id="Page_102"></a>[pg102]</span> been suffered to remain in ruins,
which are now one-fourth of a mile distant from the river.<a
name="FNanchor_79" id="FNanchor_79"></a><a href="#Footnote_79"
class="fnanchor">[068]</a></p>
<p>The country west of the Mississippi, opposite the American
Bottom, is of a very different character. The high
lands approach the river, presenting abrupt declivities,
prominent points, and in many places perpendicular precipices
from one to two hundred {48} feet high, frowning over
the brink of the river. One of the most remarkable of these
is known by the name of the Cornice Rock. It bounds a
narrow arm of the river, which has generally sufficient water
to admit the passage of boats. The rock extends nearly
in a straight line, having a front of about four hundred
yards, the brow of the precipice at some points impending
over the channel through which boats pass. The rock
rises above, to the height of fifty or sixty feet, smoothly
rounded by the attrition of the water, which never rising
to the upper part of the precipice, leaves that to project in
the form of a cornice. Though the lands on the west side
of the Mississippi are less fertile than those of the American
Bottom, they are of great value, and have long been objects
of scandalous speculation.</p>
<p>Among a variety of stratagems, practised in this part of
the country to obtain titles to lands, was one which will be<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103"></a>[pg103]</span>
best explained by the following anecdote, related to us by
a respectable citizen of St. Genevieve. Preparatory to
taking possession of Louisiana in 1805, the legislature
passed a law, authorising a claim to one section of land, in
favour of any person who should have actually made
<i>improvements</i>, in any part of the same, previous to the
year 1804. Commissioners were appointed to settle all
claims of this description; more commonly known by the
name of improvement rights. A person, somewhere in
the county of Cape Girardeau, being desirous of establishing
a claim of this kind to a tract of land, adopted the following
method:—The time having expired for the establishment
of a right, agreeably to the spirit of the law, he
took with him two witnesses to the favourite spot, on which
he wished to establish his claim, and in their presence
marked two trees, standing on opposite sides of a spring;
one with the figures 1803, the other 1804, and placed a stalk
of growing corn in the spring. He then brought the witnesses
before the commissioners, who upon their {49} declaration,
that they had seen corn growing at the place specified,
in the spring between 1803 and 1804, admitted the
claim of the applicant, and gave him a title to the land.
In the old district of Cape Girardeau, as in other parts of
Louisiana, the difficulty of establishing indisputable titles
to the lands, arising out of the great number of Spanish
grants, pre-emption, and improvement claims, has greatly
retarded the settlement of the country.<a name="FNanchor_80" id="FNanchor_80"></a><a href="#Footnote_80" class="fnanchor">[069]</a> Establishments
were made here more than one hundred and fifty years
since; yet the features of the country are little changed, retaining<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104"></a>[pg104]</span>
the rudeness and gloominess of the original
forest.<a name="FNanchor_81" id="FNanchor_81"></a><a href="#Footnote_81" class="fnanchor">[070]</a></p>
<p>At five o'clock, on the afternoon of the sixth, we passed
the Platteen rock, a perpendicular precipice, not unlike
the Cornice rock, near the mouth of a creek of the same
name. Along the base of this cliff, we found the water
three and sometimes four fathoms deep. In the evening
we arrived at Herculaneum, a small village on the west
side of the Mississippi, depending principally upon the
lead mines for its business.<a name="FNanchor_82" id="FNanchor_82"></a><a href="#Footnote_82" class="fnanchor">[071]</a></p>
<p>Here are three shot manufactories, all of them built at
the summits of perpendicular precipices; by which means,
the expense of erecting high towers has been avoided.
Thirty or forty miles to the south-west of Herculaneum,
commences the region of the lead mines, which, though not
yet satisfactorily explored, is known to extend for many
miles through the hilly country, at the sources of the
Merameg, the St. Francis, and the other small rivers, rising
in the angle between the Mississippi and Missouri, below
the mouth of the latter river.</p>
<p>Soon after the cession of Louisiana to the United States,
particular care was taken to have all claims to land investigated
and registered. Some few {50} may have been
omitted, which may be hereafter revived, but these cannot
be numerous. In all the recent sales of public lands in the<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105"></a>[pg105]</span>
western states and territories, liberal reservations have
been made for the encouragement of learning. We subjoin
some particulars, extracted from a communication of
the commissioner of public lands. From this statement,
it will be easy to form an idea of the liberal provision made
by government, for the future support of schools and colleges.
It is probable, similar grants will be made to the
Eastern States.<a name="FNanchor_83" id="FNanchor_83"></a>
<a href="#Footnote_83" class="fnanchor">[072]</a></p>
<p class="pgalone"><span class="xxpgn">
<a name="Page_106" id="Page_106"></a>[pg106]</span></p>
<p>On the 7th, after taking in wood at Herculaneum, we
moved up the river; but had scarcely passed the mouth of
the Merameg,<a name="FNanchor_84" id="FNanchor_84"></a><a href="#Footnote_84" class="fnanchor">[073]</a> when we found ourselves unable to stem
the heavy current of the Mississippi, on account of the great
quantities of mud that had accumulated in the boilers,
and prevented our raising the requisite pressure of steam.
While we were lying at anchor, to afford the steam engineer
an opportunity to clean the boilers, some gentlemen of the
party returned along shore to the Merameg, a beautiful
river, whose limpid and transparent waters present a
striking contrast to the yellow and turbid Mississippi.
They were fortunate in meeting with many interesting
objects, and, among others, an undescribed mus, which
has received, from Mr. Ord, the name of floridanus.<a name="FNanchor_85" id="FNanchor_85"></a><a href="#Footnote_85" class="fnanchor">[074]</a>
<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107"></a>[pg107]</span>Upon the specimen, which was a male, was a dilated,
glabrous, ventral line, 2¼ inches long. This species is
well known in some districts, under the name of large
hairy-tailed rat, and is by no means rare in Florida. It is
as large as the ordinary stature of the Norway rat, and is
equally troublesome. The contents of its stomach were
entirely vegetable, consisting of the green bark of trees, and
the young shoots of plants. Their nests are large, and are
composed of a great quantity of brush. Dr. Baldwin had
rarely been able to join in the excursions on shore. Plants
were, however, collected and brought to him on board the
boat, {51} where he spent much of his time in the examination
of such as were interesting or new.<a name="FNanchor_86" id="FNanchor_86"></a><a href="#Footnote_86" class="fnanchor">[075]</a></p>
<p>A few rods above our anchoring ground, were two
graves, supposed to be those of Indians. One of them
was quite recent, and both were covered with heaps of
loose stones, probably designed as monuments, and to protect
the graves from the ravages of wolves or other animals.
The eighth of June brought us to the small village<span class="xxpgn"><a
name="Page_108" id="Page_108"></a>[pg108]</span>
of Vide Poche,<a name="FNanchor_87" id="FNanchor_87"></a><a
href="#Footnote_87" class="fnanchor">[076]</a> and the following day to St. Louis,
where our arrival was noticed by a salute from a six-pounder
on the bank of the river, and the discharge of ordnance
on board several of the steam-boats lying in front
of the town.</p>
<h2 title="Chapter III"><a name="Chapter_III" id="Chapter_III"></a>
<span class="smaller">{52}</span> CHAPTER III</h2>
<p class="chaphead">Tumuli and Indian Graves about St. Louis, and on the
Merameg—Mouth of the Missouri—Charboniere—Journey
by land from St. Charles, to Loutre Island.</p>
<p class="toclink"><a href="#CONTENTS_OF_VOLUME_XIV">toc</a></p>
<p>Saint Louis, formerly called Pain Court,<a name="FNanchor_88" id="FNanchor_88"></a><a href="#Footnote_88" class="fnanchor">[077]</a> was founded
by Pierre La Clade [Laclède] and his associates in 1764,
eighty-four years after the establishment of Fort Creve-cœur,
on the Illinois river. Until a recent period, it was
occupied almost exclusively by people of French extraction,
who maintained a lucrative traffic with the Indians. The
history, and present condition of this important town, are
too well known to be dwelt upon in this place. Its population
has been rapidly augmented within a few years, by
the immigration of numerous families, and its wealth and
business extended by the accession of enterprising merchants
and mechanics from the Eastern States. As the
town advances in importance and magnitude, the manners<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109"></a>[pg109]</span>
and customs of the people of the United States, are taking
the place of those of the French and Spaniards, whose
numbers are proportionably diminishing. As this place
seems destined to be the depôt for such articles of merchandize,
as are to be sent from New Orleans to the upper
rivers, it is unfortunate, that no good harbour offers for the
protection of boats against the impetuosity of the current,
and from the danger occasioned by floating ice. In this
respect, the site of a projected town, a few miles below,
has a decided advantage over Saint Louis, as it possesses
a good harbour. It was selected many years since, by
some Canadian Frenchmen, who formed a settlement
there.<a name="FNanchor_89" id="FNanchor_89"></a><a href="#Footnote_89" class="fnanchor">[078]</a></p>
<p>The horizontal strata of limestone which underlay the
town of Saint Louis and the surrounding country, {53} have
strongly attracted the attention of the curious, on account
of having been found, in one or two instances, to contain
distinct impressions of the human foot. There is now in
the possession of Mr. Rapp,<a name="FNanchor_90" id="FNanchor_90"></a><a href="#Footnote_90" class="fnanchor">[079]</a> of the Society of the Harmonites,
a stone, which has upon its surface marks that
appear to have been formed by the naked feet of some
human being, who was standing upon it while in a plastic
state; also an irregular line, apparently traced by a stick or<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110"></a>[pg110]</span>
wand, held in the hand of the same person. This stone
was taken from the slope of the immediate bank of the
Mississippi below the range of the periodical floods. To
us there seems nothing inexplicable or difficult to understand
in its appearance.</p>
<p>Nothing is more probable, than that impressions of
human feet made upon that thin stratum of mud, which
was deposited on the shelvings of the rocks, and left naked
by the retiring of the waters, may, by the induration of the
mud, have been preserved, and at length have acquired the
appearance of an impression made immediately upon the
limestone. This supposition will be somewhat confirmed,
if we examine the mud and slime deposited by the water of
the Mississippi, which will be found to consist of such an
intimate mixture of clay and lime, as under favourable
circumstances would very readily become indurated. We
are not confident that the impressions above mentioned
have originated in the manner here supposed, but we cannot
by any means adopt the opinion of some, who have
considered them as contemporaneous to those casts of submarine
animals, which occupy so great a part of the body
of the limestone. We have no hesitation in saying, that
whatever those impressions maybe, if they were produced,
as they appear to have been by the agency of human feet,
they belong to a period far more recent, than that of the
deposition of the limestone on whose surface they are
found.</p>
<p>The country about St. Louis, like that in the rear {54} of
Fort Chartres, and indeed like the horizontal limestone
country generally, abounds in sink holes sometimes of
great depth. These are very numerous, from five to seven<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111"></a>[pg111]</span>
miles back of the town. They are in the form of vast
funnels, having at the surface a diameter of from twenty
to fifty yards. Mr. Say descended into one of these, for
the purpose of ascertaining the medium temperature below
the surface of the earth. This sink opens at the bottom of
a deep ravine. It has two apertures near each other,
through which water is admitted, and each large enough
to afford passage to the body of a man. Within are two
chambers from six to twelve feet in breadth, and thirty-five
feet long. At the bottom of the second chamber is a pool
of water rather difficult of access. In this apartment the
mercury stood at 60° fah.: in a shady part of the ravine
about twenty-five feet below the general surface at 75°.
The grassy plains to the west of St. Louis are ornamented
with many beautifully flowering herbaceous plants. Among
those collected there, Dr. Baldwin observed the aristolochia
Sipho, cypripedium spectabile,<a name="FNanchor_91" id="FNanchor_91"></a><a href="#Footnote_91" class="fnanchor">[080]</a> lilium catesbeiana, bartsia
coccinea, triosteum perfoliatum, cistus canadensis, clematis
viorna, and the tradescantia virginica. The borders of
this plain begin to be overrun with a humble growth of
black jack and the witch hazel,<a name="FNanchor_92" id="FNanchor_92"></a><a href="#Footnote_92" class="fnanchor">[081]</a> it abounds in rivulets, and
some excellent springs of water, near one of which was
found a new and beautiful species of viburnum. On the
western borders of this prairie are some fine farms. It is
here that Mr. John Bradbury,<a name="FNanchor_93" id="FNanchor_93"></a><a href="#Footnote_93" class="fnanchor">[082]</a> so long and so advantageously
known as a botanist, and by his travels into the
interior of America, is preparing to erect his habitation.<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112"></a>[pg112]</span>
This amiable gentleman lost no opportunity during our
stay at St. Louis to make our residence there agreeable to
us. Near the site selected for his house is a mineral spring,
whose {55} waters are strongly impregnated with sulphuretted
hydrogen gas. Cattle and horses, which range here
throughout the season, prefer the waters of this spring to
those of the creek in whose bed it rises, and may be seen
daily coming in great numbers, from distant parts of the
prairie, to drink of it.</p>
<p>Tumuli, and other remains of the labours of nations of
Indians that inhabited this region many ages since, are remarkably
numerous about St. Louis. Those tumuli immediately
northward of the town, and within a short distance
of it, are twenty-seven in number, of various forms
and magnitudes, arranged nearly in a line from north to
south. The common form is an oblong square, and they
all stand on the second bank of the river. The statement
given below of their forms, magnitudes, and relative positions,
is the result of actual admeasurement taken with
care, and with as much accuracy as their present indefinite
boundaries, together with the dense growth of underwood,
covering their surface, and tending to beguile and obstruct
the vision of the observer, will admit.</p>
<p>It seems probable these piles of earth were raised as
cemeteries, or they may have supported altars for religious
ceremonies. We cannot conceive any useful purpose to which
they can have been applicable in war, unless as elevated
stations from which to observe the motions of an approaching
enemy; but for this purpose a single mound would have
been sufficient, and the place chosen would probably have
been different. <span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_113"
id="Page_113"></a>[pg113]</span></p>
<p>Nothing like a ditch, or an embankment, is to be seen about any
part of these works.<a name="FNanchor_94" id="FNanchor_94"></a><a
href="#Footnote_94" class="fnanchor">[083]</a></p>
<p>Indian graves are extremely numerous about St. Louis,
though none are found in the immediate vicinity of the
town: they are most frequent on the hills about the Merameg
and on the north side of the Missouri. On the 12th
June, Mr. Say and Mr. Peale, accompanied by one man,
descended the Mississippi,{56} in a small boat to the mouth
of the Merameg, and ascended the latter river about fifteen
miles, to a place where great numbers of graves have been
explored, and have been represented to contain the bones
of a diminutive race of men. Most of these graves are
found near the bank of the Merameg. They do not rise
above the general surface, but their presence is ascertained
by the vertical stones which enclose them, and project
a little at either end of the grave. When the included
earth, and the numerous horizontal flat stones are removed,
we find the sides neatly constructed of long flat stones,
vertically implanted and adapted to each other, edge to
edge, so as to form a continuous wall. The graves are
usually three or four feet, though sometimes six feet in
length. The bones they contained appeared to have been
deposited after having been separated from the flesh, and
from each other, according to the custom of some tribes of
Indians at the present day.</p>
<p>In the first grave opened by Mr. Say were found the
fragments of an earthen pot, and the bones of an infantine
skull; the second contained what appeared to be the remains
of a middle aged man, of the ordinary stature, laid<span
class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117"></a>[pg117]</span>
at full length; the bones much confused and broken. An
inhabitant residing here informed them, that many similar
graves had been found along the summits of most of the
neighbouring hills. In one of these he had found two
pieces of earthenware, one having nearly the form of a
porter-bottle; the other with a wide mouth; but this grave
contained no bones. After spending a night at this place,
they crossed the river to the town of Lilliput, (one of the
projected towns here has received this name,) the place so
often mentioned as the locality of the graves of a pigmy
race. Appearances here are in general similar to those
already described. One head that had been dug up was
that of an old person, in whom the teeth had been lost, and
the alveolæ {57} obliterated, leaving the sharp edge of the
jaw-bone. From this the neighbouring settlers had inferred
the existence of a race of men without teeth, having their
jaws like those of the turtle. Having satisfied themselves
that all the bones found here were those of men of the common
size, Mr. Say and Mr. Peale "sold their skiff, shouldered
their guns, bones, spade, &c. and bent their weary
steps towards St. Louis, (distant sixteen miles,) where they
arrived at eleven o'clock P. M., having had ample time, by
the way, to indulge sundry reflections on that quality of the
mind, either imbibed in the nursery or generated by evil
communications, which incites to the love of the marvellous,
and, by hyperbole, casts the veil of falsehood over the
charming features of simple nature."</p>
<p>These graves evidently contain the relics of a more
modern people than those who erected the mounds.</p>
<p>On the summit of one of the large hillocks, near St.
Louis, (No. 27. described in note 83) are several of these
graves: we opened five of them, but in one only were we<span
class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118"></a>[pg118]</span>
fortunate in finding any thing interesting, and all that this
contained was a solitary tooth of a species of rat, together
with the vertebræ and ribs of a serpent of moderate size,
and in good preservation; but whether the animal had been
buried by the natives, or had perished there, after having
found admittance through some hole, we could not determine.
If they were buried by the Indians, they are probably
the bones of a species of crotalus, as it is known that
many Indians of the present day have a sort of veneration
for animals of that genus. The circumstance of the discovery
of these bones renders it somewhat probable, that
rattlesnakes were formerly worshipped by the natives of
America, and their remains, like those of the Ibis of Egypt,
religiously entombed after death.</p>
<p>Whilst we were at Cincinnati, Dr. Drake exhibited {58}
to us, in his cabinet of natural history, two large marine
shells, that had been dug out of ancient Indian tumuli in
that vicinity. These shells were each cut longitudinally,
and the larger half of each only remained. From this
circumstance it seems probable that they had been used
by the aborigines as drinking cups; or, consecrated to
superstition, they may have been regarded as sacred utensils,
and either used in connection with the rites of sacrifice,
or in making libations to their deities; they may, however,
like the cymbium of the Archipelago, have served a more
useful and salutary purpose in bathing.</p>
<p>One of these specimens seems to be a <i>Cassis cornutus</i>, of
authors, or great conch shell, though it is proper to observe,
that of the three revolving bands of tubercles, characteristic
of that species, the inferior one in this specimen is double.
In length it is about nine inches and a quarter, and in breadth
seven inches. <span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_119"
id="Page_119"></a>[pg119]</span></p>
<p>The other specimen is a heterostrophe shell of the genus
<i>Fulgur</i> of Montfort; and, as far as we can judge, in every
respect the same with those which are, at the present day,
found on the coast of Georgia and East Florida, known to
naturalists under the name of <i>F. perversus</i>, though it is
certainly much larger than any of the recent specimens we
have seen; its length being nine inches, and breadth six and
a half.</p>
<p>Several different countries have been mentioned by
authors as the habitation of the <i>cornutus</i>; according to
Rumphius, it inhabits Amboyna, the straits of Malacca,
and the shores of the island of Boeton; Humphreys says it
is brought from the East Indies and China; Linnæus believed
it to inhabit the coasts of America; but Bruguiere, a
more recent author, informs us that Linnæus was probably
mistaken in the habitation of this shell, and states it to be
a native of the Asiatic ocean.</p>
<p>The <i>cornutus</i> becomes of some importance in the question
relative to the Asiatic origin of the American {59} Indians.
All the authorities to which we have been able to refer, correspond
in assigning the shores of Asia, or those of the
islands which lie near that continent, as the native
territory of this great species of conch, with the sole
exception of Linnæus; but as no other author has discovered
it on the coasts of this continent, we must believe
with Bruguiere, that it is only to be found in the Asiatic
ocean.</p>
<p>The circumstance then of this shell being discovered in
one of the ancient Indian tumuli, affords, at least, an evidence
that an intercourse formerly existed between the
Indians of North America and those of Asia; and leads us
to believe that even a limited commerce was carried on<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120"></a>[pg120]</span>
between them, as it undoubtedly was with the Atlantic
coast, from which the Fulgur was obtained.</p>
<p>But although this isolated fact does not yield a positive
proof of the long asserted migration of the ancestors of the
present race of American Indians from Asia to this country,
yet, when taken in combination with other evidence,
which has been collected by various authors, with so much
industry, it will be regarded as highly corroborative of that
popular belief.<a name="FNanchor_95" id="FNanchor_95"></a><a href="#Footnote_95" class="fnanchor">[084]</a></p>
<p>In the prairies of Illinois, opposite St. Louis, are numbers
of large mounds. We counted seventy-five in the
course of a walk of about five miles, which brought us to
the hill a few years since occupied by the monks of La
Trappe.<a name="FNanchor_96" id="FNanchor_96"></a><a href="#Footnote_96" class="fnanchor">[085]</a> This enormous mound lies nearly from north
to south, but it is so overgrown with bushes and weeds,
interlaced with briers and vines, that we were unable to
obtain an accurate account of its dimensions.</p>
<p>The survey of these productions of human industry,
these monuments without inscription, commemorating the
existence of a people once numerous and powerful, but no
longer known or remembered, never fails, though often
repeated, to produce an impression of sadness. As we
stand upon these {60} mouldering piles, many of them now
nearly obliterated, we cannot but compare their aspect of
decay with the freshness of the wide field of nature, which<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121"></a>[pg121]</span>
we see reviving around us; their insignificance, with the
majestic and imperishable features of the landscape. We
feel the insignificance and the want of permanence in
every thing human; we are reminded of what has been
so often said of the pyramids of Egypt, and may with
equal propriety be applied to all the works of men, "these
monuments must perish, but the grass that grows between
their disjointed fragments shall be renewed from year to
year."<a name="FNanchor_97" id="FNanchor_97"></a><a href="#Footnote_97" class="fnanchor">[086]</a></p>
<p>June 21st. After completing our arrangements at St.
Louis, we left that place at noon, and at 10 o'clock on the
following day, entered the mouth of the Missouri. From
St. Louis upward to the Missouri, the water of the Mississippi,
for a part of the year, is observed to be clear and of a
greenish colour on the Illinois side, while it is turbid and
yellow along the western bank. But at the time of our
ascent every part of the Mississippi appeared equally turbid,
its waters soon becoming blended with the heavy
flood of the Missouri.</p>
<p>The Missouri being now swollen by the spring floods,
which had subsided in the Mississippi, entered that river
with such impetuosity, as apparently to displace almost
the whole body of the waters in its channel. We had
occasion to observe that the water of the Missouri passes
under that of the Mississippi, rising and becoming mingled
with it on the opposite shore, so that a portion of the clear,
green waters of the latter river run for some distance in the<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122"></a>[pg122]</span>
middle of the channel, and along the surface of the Missouri
waters, rendered perhaps specifically heavier by the
great quantities of earthy matter mingled with them. The
waters of the Missouri are so charged with mud and sand
as to be absolutely opake, and of a clay {61} colour; while
those of the Mississippi being comparatively clear, and
having a somewhat olivaceous tint, afford an opportunity
of tracing their respective courses, after their junction in
the same channel. At some stages of water they run side
by side, and in a great measure unmingled as far as Herculaneum,
forty-eight miles below their confluence.</p>
<p>We had the pleasure to find, notwithstanding the furnace
was supplied with wood of an indifferent quality, that the
force of our steam-engine was sufficient to propel the boat
against the current of the Missouri, without recourse to the
aid of the <i>cordelle</i>,<a name="FNanchor_98" id="FNanchor_98"></a><a href="#Footnote_98" class="fnanchor">[087]</a> which we had expected to find necessary.</p>
<p>We were somewhat surprised to see here a flock of black-headed
terns. It is remarkable that these birds, whose
ordinary range is in the immediate vicinity of the sea-coast,
should ascend this river to so great a distance. They are
not seen on the Delaware as high as Philadelphia, unless
driven up by storms.</p>
<p>In ascending from the mouth of the Missouri to Bellefontain,
a distance of four miles, our boat grounded twice
on the point of the same sand-bar, and considerable time
was consumed in efforts to get her afloat. A military post
was established at Bellefontain, under the direction of the
government of the United States, by General Wilkinson,
in 1803; but the soil on which his works were erected has<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123"></a>[pg123]</span>
disappeared, the place being now occupied by the bed of
the river. A few fruit trees only, which stood in the end
of his garden, are yet standing, but are now on the brink of
the river. The first bank is here ten or twelve feet high,
rising perpendicularly from the water. Near its base are
the trunks of several trees with one end imbedded, and the
other projecting horizontally over the surface of the water,
affording an evidence of the recent deposition of the soil
of the low plains, and an admonition of the uncertainty of
tenure, on the first bank of the river. One of these projecting
trunks is still in good preservation. It is {62} about
three feet in diameter, and from its direction, must pass
immediately under the roots of two large trees, now
occupying the surface of the soil.<a name="FNanchor_99" id="FNanchor_99"></a><a href="#Footnote_99" class="fnanchor">[088]</a> Similar appearances
are frequent along the Mississippi and Missouri, and furnish
abundant evidence that these rivers are constantly
changing their bed, and, from the great rapidity of the
stream, as well as from the appearances presented, we
must suppose these changes are not very slowly produced;
but their range is confined to the valley within the second
banks, which are here raised about seventy feet. On this
second bank, in the rear of the site of the former works,
the buildings belonging to the present military establishment
have been erected. They were commenced in 1810.
The houses are of one story, constructed of logs, based upon
masonry, and united in the form of a hollow square. At<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124"></a>[pg124]</span>
the foot of the second bank rises a fine spring of water,
which has given name to the place. Cold Water creek, a
very small stream not navigable, discharges itself a few
hundred yards above; in times of high water its mouth
might afford harbour to small boats. Before the recent
change in the bed of the Missouri, this creek entered
higher up than at present, and then afforded a good harbour
for boats of all sizes. The sixth regiment were encamped
here at the time of our arrival, waiting for the
contractor's steam-boats, three of which we had passed at
the mouth of the river.<a name="FNanchor_100" id="FNanchor_100"></a><a href="#Footnote_100" class="fnanchor">[089]</a></p>
<p>Here we found it necessary to adjust a tube to the boilers
of our steam-engine, in order to form a passage, through
which the mud might be blown out: the method heretofore
adopted, of taking off one end for the purpose of admitting
a man to clean them, proving too tedious when it was
found necessary to repeat the operation daily. The expedient
of the tube succeeded to our entire satisfaction.</p>
<p>Dr. Baldwin found here a plant, which he considered as
forming a new genus, approaching astragalus; {63} also
the new species of rose, pointed out by Mr. Bradbury, and
by him called Rosa mutabilis. This last is a very beautiful
species, rising sometimes to the height of eight or ten feet.
The linden tree<a name="FNanchor_101" id="FNanchor_101"></a><a href="#Footnote_101" class="fnanchor">[090]</a> attains great magnitude in the low<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125"></a>[pg125]</span>
grounds of the Missouri; its flowers were now fully expanded.</p>
<p>In ascending from Bellefontain to Charboniere, where
we came to an anchor, on the evening of the 24th, we were
opposed by a very strong current, and much impeded by
sand-bars. On the upper ends of these sand-bars are
many large rafts of drift wood; these are also frequent
along the right hand shore. In several places we observed
portions of the bank in the act of falling or sliding into the
river. By this operation, numerous trees, commonly cotton-woods
and willows, are overturned into the water.</p>
<p>The forests, on the low grounds immediately in the
vicinity of the Missouri, are remarkably dense; but in
many instances, the young willows and poplars (which are
the first and almost the only trees that spring up on the
lands left naked by the river) have not attained half their
ordinary dimensions, before, by another change in the
direction of the current, they are undermined, and precipitated
down, to be borne away by the river. The
growth of the cotton-tree is very rapid, that of the salix
angustata, the most common of the willows found here,
is more tardy, as it never attains to great size. The seeds
of both these trees are produced in the greatest profusion,
and ripened early in the summer, and being furnished by
nature with an apparatus to ensure their wide dissemination,
they have extended themselves and taken root
in the fertile lands along all the ramifications of the
Mississippi, prevailing almost to the exclusion of other
trees.</p>
<p>{64} Charboniere<a name="FNanchor_102" id="FNanchor_102"></a><a href="#Footnote_102" class="fnanchor">[091]</a> is on the right bank of the Missouri.<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126"></a>[pg126]</span>
This name was given it by the boatmen and the
earliest settlers, on account of several narrow beds of coal,
which appear a few feet from the water's edge, at the base
of a high cliff of soft sandstone. The smell of sulphur is
very perceptible along the bank of the river, occasioned
doubtless by the decomposition of pyrites, in the exposed
parts of the coal beds. Some small masses of sulphate of
lime also occur, and have probably derived their origin
from the same source.</p>
<p>At St. Charles we were joined by Maj. O'Fallon, agent
for Indian affairs in Missouri, and his interpreter, Mr.
John Dougherty, who had travelled by land from St.
Louis.<a name="FNanchor_103" id="FNanchor_103"></a><a href="#Footnote_103" class="fnanchor">[092]</a> When Lewis and Clark ascended the Missouri,
the town of St. Charles was said to contain one hundred
houses, the inhabitants deriving their support principally
from the Indian trade. This source having in a great
measure failed, on account of the disappearance of the
aborigines, before the rapid advances of the white population,
the town remained in a somewhat declining condition
for several years; but as the surrounding country was soon
occupied by an agricultural population, a more permanent
though less lucrative exchange is taking the place of the
Indian trade. Accordingly within two or three years,
many substantial brick buildings had been added, and
several were now in progress: we could enumerate, however,<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127"></a>[pg127]</span>
only about one hundred houses. There are two
brick kilns, a tanyard, and several stores.<a name="FNanchor_104" id="FNanchor_104"></a><a href="#Footnote_104" class="fnanchor">[093]</a></p>
<p>A mile or two below St. Charles, are many trunks
of trees projecting from the bank, like those mentioned
at Bellefontain. In the face of the banks are usually
great numbers of the holes made by the bank-swallow
for its nest, and the birds themselves are frequently
seen.</p>
<p>At St. Charles, arrangements were made for the purpose
of transporting baggage for such of the gentlemen {65} of
the party as should choose to ascend the Missouri by
land, that they might have the better opportunities for
investigating the natural history of the country. Messrs.
Say, Jessup, Peale, and Seymour, having provided themselves
with a horse and pack-saddle, on which they fastened
their blankets, a tent, and some provisions, accompanied
by one man, left St. Charles at 7 o'clock on the
morning of the 26th, intending to keep nearly an equal
pace with the steam-boat, in order to rejoin it as occasion
might require. Dr. Baldwin, still confined by debility and
lameness, was compelled to forego the pleasure of accompanying
them.</p>
<p>The Western Engineer proceeded on her voyage, soon
after the departure of Mr. Say and his detachment. Having
grounded several times in the course of the day, and
contending all the way against a heavy current, she proceeded
but a few miles. We passed some rocky cliffs;
but in general the immediate banks of the river presented
the same appearance as below, consisting of a recent alluvium.
After we had anchored at evening, Dr. Baldwin<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128"></a>[pg128]</span>
was able to walk a short distance on shore, but returned
much fatigued by his exertions.<a name="FNanchor_105" id="FNanchor_105"></a><a href="#Footnote_105" class="fnanchor">[094]</a></p>
<p>On the morning of the 27th, after having taken in a
small supply of indifferent fuel, we crossed over to the
right-hand side of the river, and took on board one of the
party, who had left the boat at an early hour, to visit a
friend residing a short distance from the river. At evening
we came to anchor half a mile below Point Labidee,<a name="FNanchor_107" id="FNanchor_107"></a><a href="#Footnote_107" class="fnanchor">[095]</a>
a high bluff, where observations for latitude were taken.
Here we were detained a day making some necessary repairs.</p>
<p>A fine field of wheat, which appeared to be ripe, extended
down to the brink of the river opposite the spot
where we lay. This belonged to the plantation of a farmer,
recently from Virginia. From him we obtained a plentiful
supply of milk, and some bacon hams. A portion
of the bank had lately fallen into {66} the river, and
with it a part of the wheat field, and the dwelling house
and other buildings seemed destined soon to follow.</p>
<p>The shore here was lined with the common elder, (sambucus
canadensis) in full bloom, and the cleared fields<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129"></a>[pg129]</span>
were yellow with the flowers of the common mullein. This
plant, supposed to have been originally introduced from
Europe, follows closely the footsteps of the whites. The
liatris pycnostachia, here called "pine of the prairies,"
which was now in full bloom, has a roundish tuberous root,
of a warm somewhat balsamic taste, and is used by the
Indians and others for the cure of gonnorrhœa.</p>
<p>The Indian interpreter, Mr. Dougherty, also showed us
some branches of a shrub, which he said was much used
among the natives in the cure of lues venerea. They
make a decoction of the root, which they continue to
drink for some time. It is called "blue wood" by the
French, and is the symphoria racemosa of Pursh, common
to the maritime states, the banks of the St. Lawrence, and
the Missouri. It is here rather taller, and the branches
less flexuous than in the eastern states.<a name="FNanchor_108" id="FNanchor_108"></a><a href="#Footnote_108" class="fnanchor">[096]</a></p>
<p>Without meeting any remarkable occurrences, we
moved on from day to day, encountering numerous obstacles
in the navigation of the river, and being occasionally
delayed by the failure of some part of the steam-engine,
till on the 2d of July, we arrived at Loutre Island,
where we found Mr. Say and his companions.</p>
<p>After leaving the steam-boat at St. Charles, on the 25th
of June, this party had travelled over a somewhat hilly
country, covered with open oak woods for about ten miles,
to a small creek, called the Darden,<a name="FNanchor_109" id="FNanchor_109"></a><a href="#Footnote_109" class="fnanchor">[097]</a> entering the Mississippi
a few miles above the Illinois. This stream they
crossed three miles from the Missouri, having in their<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130"></a>[pg130]</span>
walk suffered greatly {67} from thirst. At evening they
tied their pack-horse to a bush; and as they returned, after
being absent a few minutes for water, the animal took
fright, and breaking loose, disencumbered himself of his
pack, and set off on a gallop to return to St. Charles; and
it was not without great exertion that he was overtaken
and brought back. They then pitched their tent, and
were so fortunate as to find a house at the distance of half
a mile. This belonged to a family from Carolina, and
exhibited great appearance of neatness and comfort, but
the owner was found particularly deficient in hospitality.
He refused to sell or to give any refreshments for the use
of the party, and even granted them some water with
apparent reluctance, marching haughtily about his piazza,
while some person was annoying his family by playing
wretchedly on a flute. Mr. Say and the gentlemen of his
party had on the fatigue dress of common soldiers, to
which they probably owed the coldness of their reception.
We are, however, glad to be able, from much experience,
to say that there are few houses in the lately settled parts
of the United States, where common soldiers would have
met such a reception as was accorded by this Mr. N. to
the gentlemen of the party. Want of hospitality is rarely
the fault of the inhabitants of the remote settlements.
Being refused refreshments, they returned to their camp,
and with the addition of a hawk which they had killed,
made a supper from the contents of their pack.</p>
<p>On the 27th they crossed the Perogue,<a name="FNanchor_110" id="FNanchor_110"></a><a href="#Footnote_110" class="fnanchor">[098]</a> about nineteen
miles from St. Charles; and after a fatiguing march of<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131"></a>[pg131]</span>
several miles, were entertained at the house of a very
worthy man, who supplied them with whatever his place
afforded. From too long fasting, and from the effect of
exposure and fatigue, Mr. Say and others became somewhat
unwell; and on their account, the party remained at
the house of their friendly host till evening, when they
walked four {68} miles to a place called Fort Kennedy.
They purchased a ham, and a loaf of corn bread of Mr.
Kennedy, paying ten cents per pound for the ham, and
twenty-five cents for all the bread, milk, and corn, consumed
during their stay.<a name="FNanchor_111" id="FNanchor_111"></a><a href="#Footnote_111" class="fnanchor">[099]</a></p>
<p>The next morning, having travelled about seven miles,
they halted for breakfast; and having fettered their horse,
dismissed him to feed; but when sought for the purpose
of continuing their journey, he could not be found. Two
travellers at length arrived, and informed them that the
horse had been seen at about six miles' distance, on the
way towards St. Charles: a horse was therefore hired,
and a person returned in pursuit; but he was not to be
found, having proceeded on his journey previously to the
arrival of the messenger.</p>
<p>The prairie flies (a species of tabanus,) are exceedingly
troublesome to horses and cattle, insomuch that people
who cross these grassy plains usually travel very early in
the morning, and again at evening, resting greater part of
the day; some, indeed, journey only by night. If they
travel at all in the day, they have the precaution to defend
the horse, by a covering thrown loosely over him.
The tabani appear about the 10th of June, and are seen in<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132"></a>[pg132]</span>
immense numbers, until about the 10th of August, when
they disappear. Near the farm houses we observed, that
cattle, when attacked by them, ran violently among the
bushes, to rid themselves of their persecutors.—Mosquitoes
were not numerous.</p>
<p>As they were fearful of being unable to overtake the
steam-boat on the Missouri, if they made a longer delay
to prosecute the search for their horse, it was determined
to abandon him altogether, rather than return to St.
Charles, whither he had doubtless gone; accordingly, on
the 29th of June, they made a division of their baggage,
and each one shouldering his respective portion, proceeded
towards the margin of Loutre Prairie. When they
arrived here, they determined {69} to take the most direct
route towards the Missouri, as it seemed folly for them to
attempt, in the drought and heat, which then prevailed,
to cross the extensive plains of Loutre and the Grand
Prairie with their heavy burthens. They therefore followed
a path leading nearly south, along a naked ridge;
where they travelled twelve miles, without finding water,
and arrived at Loutre Island in the evening. They were
all the day tormented with excessive thirst; and being unaccustomed
to travelling on foot, they were much fatigued,
and several became lame. The soil of the extensive prairies
which they passed was not very good; but mixed at the
surface with so much vegetable matter, accumulated by
the successive growth and decomposition of the yearly
products, as to give it the aspect of fertility.<a name="FNanchor_112" id="FNanchor_112"></a><a href="#Footnote_112" class="fnanchor">[100]</a></p>
<p>On the south side of Loutre Prairie a well has been sunk<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133"></a>[pg133]</span>
sixty-five feet, without obtaining water; on the north water
is readily found, by digging to a moderate depth. Loutre
Prairie is twenty-three, and Grand Prairie is twenty-five
miles in length: on the borders of each are some scattering
settlements.</p>
<p>Near Loutre Island are several forts, as they are called
by the inhabitants, built by the settlers during the late
war, and designed to afford protection against the attacks
of the aborigines, chiefly the Kickapoos, and Saukees, who
were most feared in this quarter. They are simply strong
log-houses, with a projecting upper story, and with loop-holes
for musketry.</p>
<p>It was within a few miles of this place, that a company
of mounted rangers, commanded by Captain Calloway,
were attacked by the Indians. The assault commenced
as the rangers were entering a narrow defile, near the confluence
of the Prairie Forks of Loutre Creek. Several men
were killed at the first fire, and Captain Calloway received
in his body a ball that had passed through his watch.
So furious was the onset, that there was no time for reloading
their pieces after they had discharged them. {70}
Captain Calloway threw his gun into the creek, that it
might not add to the booty of the Indians; and though
mortally wounded, drew his knife, and killed two of the
assailants; but seeing no prospect of success he ordered a
retreat, hoping thereby to save the lives of some of his
men. He was the last to leave the ground; when springing
into the creek he received a shot in his head, and expired
immediately.<a name="FNanchor_113" id="FNanchor_113"></a>
<a href="#Footnote_113" class="fnanchor">[101]</a></p>
<p class="pgalone"><span class="xxpgn">
<a name="Page_134" id="Page_134"></a>[pg134]</span></p>
<p>Loutre Island is something more than nine miles long,
and about one mile wide, and is the residence of several
families. Between it and the main land is an isthmus,
which is left naked at times of low water. Loutre Creek
enters at the lower end of the island. It is not navigable.
Mr. Talbot, formerly from Kentucky, has been resident here
for nine years. His farm is in a high state of cultivation,
and furnishes abundant supplies of poultry, eggs, potatoes,
and the numerous products of the kitchen garden, of which
he sent a handsome present on board our boat. He informed
us that peach-trees succeed well in the most fertile
parts of the island.<a name="FNanchor_114" id="FNanchor_114"></a><a href="#Footnote_114" class="fnanchor">[102]</a></p>
<p>The first dwellings constructed by the white settlers are
nearly similar in every part of the United States. Superior
wealth and industry are indicated by the number and magnitude
of corn-cribs, smoke-houses, and similar appurtenances;
but on the Missouri, we rarely meet with any
thing occupying the place of the barn in the northern
states. The dwellings of people who have emigrated from
Virginia, or any of the more southern states, have usually
the form of double cabins, or two distinct houses, each containing
a single room, and connected to each other by a
roof; the intermediate space, which is often equal in area
to one of the cabins, being left open at the sides, and having
the naked earth for a floor, affords a cool and airy
retreat, where the family will usually be found in the heat
of the day. The roof is composed of from three to five<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135"></a>[pg135]</span>
logs, laid longitudinally, {71} and extending from end to
end of the building; on these are laid the shingles, four or
five feet in length; over these are three or four heavy logs,
called weight poles, secured at their ends by withes, and
by their weight supplying the place of nails.</p>
<p>They have corn-mills, consisting of a large horizontal
wooden wheel, moved by a horse, and having a band
passed round its periphery to communicate motion to the
stone. These are called band-mills, and are the most
simple and economical of those in which the power of
horses is employed. The solitary planter, who has chosen
his place remote from the habitation of any other family,
has sometimes a mill of a more primitive character, called
a hand-mill, probably differing little from those used
among the ancient Egyptians. It consists of two stones;
and while one person causes the uppermost to revolve
horizontally upon the disk of the other, a second, who is
usually a child or a woman, introduces the corn a few
grains at a time, through a perforation in the upper stone.
Some are content with the still ruder apparatus, consisting
of an excavation in the top of a stump; into which the
corn is thrown, and brayed with a pestle. This is the
method in use among many of the agricultural Indians.</p>
<p>A large species of lampyris is common on the lower part
of the Missouri. It is readily distinguished from the
smaller species, the common fire-fly, by its mode of coruscating.
It emits from three to seven or eight flashes, in
rapid succession, then ceases; but shortly after renews its
brilliancy. This species appears early in May. We saw
many of them in returning by night from the Merameg to
St. Louis; but before our arrival at Loutre Island they had
disappeared, and were succeeded by great numbers of the<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136"></a>[pg136]</span>
lampyris pyralis, whose coruscations are inferior in quantity
of light, and appear singly.</p>
<p>The black walnut attains, in the Missouri bottoms, {72}
its greatest magnitude. Of one, which grew near Loutre
Island, there had been made two hundred fence-rails,
eleven feet in length, and from four to six inches in thickness.
A cotton-tree, in the same neighbourhood, produced
thirty thousand shingles, as we were informed by a
credible witness.</p>
<h2 title="Chapter IV"><a name="Chapter_IV" id="Chapter_IV"></a>
<span class="smaller">{73}</span> CHAPTER IV</h2>
<p class="chaphead">Settlement of Cote Sans Dessein—Mouths of the Osage—Manito
Rocks—Village of Franklin</p>
<p class="toclink"><a href="#CONTENTS_OF_VOLUME_XIV">toc</a></p>
<p>The left bank of the Missouri at the confluence of Loutre
Creek is precipitous, terminating a group of hills which
can be distinguished running far to the north-east. Towards
the river these fall off in perpendicular precipices,
whose bases are concealed in a dense growth of trees and
underwood. From their summits huge masses of rock
have fallen; and some of these are of such magnitude, that
their summits rise above the surrounding forest. One
standing opposite the head of the island next above Loutre,
is marked with numerous rude drawings, executed by the
Indians; some representing men with the heads of bisons,
spears, arrows, bows, &c. Half a mile above this rock
the Gasconade enters the Missouri from the south. The
sources of this river are in the hilly country, near those of
some of the larger tributaries of the Yungar fork of the
Osage; its waters are transparent, and its current rapid.
Traversing a rocky and broken country, it has not the
uniformity of current common to many of the branches
of the Missouri, but is varied by numerous cataracts and<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137"></a>[pg137]</span>
rapids, affording convenient stations for water-mills.
Some saw-mills have already been erected; and from
them a supply of pine-timber is brought to the settlements
on the Missouri, that tree being rarely met with
here, except in the hilly country. The Gasconade is navigable
for a few miles. As might be expected, a projected
town is placed at the confluence of this {74} river and the
Missouri, and is to be called Gasconade.<a name="FNanchor_115" id="FNanchor_115"></a><a href="#Footnote_115" class="fnanchor">[103]</a></p>
<p>Above the Gasconade, the aspect of the shores of the
Missouri is the same as below, except that the hills are discontinued
on the left side, and make their appearance on
the right, extending along eight or nine miles; above this
both shores are low bottom grounds.</p>
<p>Having received on board Mr. Say and his companions,
we left Loutre Island on the 3d of July; and passing in
succession the mouths of the Gasconade, Bear Creek, the
Au Vase, and other tributaries, we anchored on the evening
of the 5th, above the little village of Cote Sans Dessein.<a name="FNanchor_116" id="FNanchor_116"></a><a href="#Footnote_116" class="fnanchor">[104]</a>
This place contains about thirty families, mostly
French, occupying as many small log cabins, scattered
remotely along the left bank of the river. Nearly opposite<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138"></a>[pg138]</span>
the village is the lower mouth of the Osage. Just above
the town is the elevated insular hill, which has given name
to the place; it extends about eight hundred yards, parallel
to the bank of the river, and terminates at a small stream
called Revoe's Creek. Back of the hill is a marsh, discharging
a small stream of water into the creek. The site
of the settlement of Cote Sans Dessein is remarkable on
account of the fertility of the soil, the black mould extending
to the depth of about four feet. The soil is very rich
for twenty or thirty miles, in the rear of the village; but the
uncertainty of the titles, arising from the conflicting claims,
founded on the basis of pre-emption, New Madrid grants,
and the concession of a large tract opposite the mouth of
the Osage, made by the Spanish authorities in favour of
Mr. Choteau, still operates to retard the increase of population.
<a name="FNanchor_117" id="FNanchor_117"></a>
<a href="#Footnote_117" class="fnanchor">[105]</a></p>
<p class="pgalone"><span class="xxpgn">
<a name="Page_139" id="Page_139"></a>[pg139]</span></p>
<p>At the time of the late war the inhabitants of this settlement,
relying on mutual protection, did not retire, but
erected two stockades, and block-houses for their defence;
the Sauks, assisted by some Foxes and Ioways, having by a
feigned attack and {75} retreat, induced the greater part of
the men to pursue them, gained their rear by means of
an ambuscade, and entering the village, raised their war-cry
at the doors of the cabins. The women and children
fled in consternation to the block-houses. At this juncture
a young man was seen, who would not abandon his
decrepit mother, even though she entreated him to fly and
save his own life, leaving her, who could at best expect to
live but a few days, to the mercy of the savages. The
youth, instead of listening to her request, raised her upon
his shoulders, and ran towards the stockade, closely pursued
by the Indians. They fired several times upon him,
and he must have been cut off had not a sally been made
in his favour.</p>
<p>After killing the villagers who had fallen into their
hands, the Indians proceeded to attack the lower stockade.
The block-house at this work was defended by
two men, and several women. On hearing the war-cry,
this little but determined garrison responded to it in such
a manner as to communicate to the Indians the idea that
the block-house contained a considerable number of men.
They, therefore, proceeded to the attack with caution. In
the first onset, one of the two men received a mortal
wound, which made him incapable of further exertion—the
other continued to discharge the guns at the besiegers,
they being loaded and put into his hands by the women.
One mode of attack, adopted by the Indians, had nearly
proved successful. They threw burning torches upon the<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140"></a>[pg140]</span>
roof, which was several times on fire; but the women, with
admirable presence of mind, and undaunted intrepidity,
ascended to the top of the building and extinguished the
flames. This scene continued during the entire day; and
at evening, when the assailants withdrew, a small portion
only of the roof remained; so often had the attempt to fire
the building been repeated. The loss sustained by the
enemy was never correctly {76} ascertained; it has since
been stated by an Indian, that fourteen were killed and
several wounded, but many are of opinion that two or three
only were killed.</p>
<p>We saw the hero of this affair at the block-house itself,
now converted into a dwelling; but he did not appear to be
greatly esteemed, having perhaps few qualities except personal
intrepidity to recommend him.<a name="FNanchor_118" id="FNanchor_118"></a><a href="#Footnote_118" class="fnanchor">[106]</a> Cote Sans Dessein
contains a tavern, a store, a blacksmith's shop, and a
billiard table.</p>
<p>The Cane<a name="FNanchor_119" id="FNanchor_119"></a><a href="#Footnote_119" class="fnanchor">[107]</a> is no where met with on the Missouri; but
its place is in part supplied by the equisetum hiemale,
which, remaining green through the winter, affords an
indifferent pasturage for horned cattle and horses: to the
latter, it often prove deleterious. The inhabitants of St.
Genevieve placed their horses upon an island covered with
rushes, where great numbers of them shortly after died;
but it was observed that such as received regularly a small
quantity of salt remained uninjured. Of a large number
of horses, placed on an island near the mouth of the Nishnebottona,<a name="FNanchor_120" id="FNanchor_120"></a><a href="#Footnote_120" class="fnanchor">[108]</a>
to feed upon this plant, no less than twenty<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141"></a>[pg141]</span>
were found dead at the end of five days. May not the
deleterious properties of the equisetum hiemale depend,
in some measure, on the frozen water included in the cavity
of the stalk?</p>
<p>We were told the cows on this part of the Missouri, at
certain seasons of the year, give milk so deleterious as to
prove fatal, when taken into the stomach; and this effect
is commonly attributed to a poisonous plant, said to be
frequent in the low grounds, where it is eaten by the cattle.
They have a disease called the <i>milk sickness</i>: it commences
with nausea and dizziness, succeeded by headache, pain
in the stomach and bowels, and finally, by a prostration of
strength, which renders the patient unable to stand; a general
torpor soon ensues, succeeded {77} by death. It is a
common belief that the flesh of animals, that have eaten
of this poisonous weed, is noxious, and that horses are
destroyed by it.</p>
<p>We have heard it remarked by the inhabitants of the
Ohio below the rapids, that the milk of cows running at
large in August is poisonous; and this they do not fail to
attribute to the effect of noxious plants; and in some places
they point out to you one, and in another place another
vegetable, to which they assign these properties. The
inhabitants generally seem to have no suspicion that milk,
unless it is poisoned, can be an unwholesome article of diet;
and we have been often surprised to see it given to those
labouring under fever. Throughout the western states,
and particularly in the more remote settlements, much use
is made of butter-milk, and soured milk in various forms;
all of which they sell to travellers. Below Cote Sans Dessein
we paid, for new milk, twenty-five cents per gallon,
and for soured milk, eighteen and three-fourth cents. At<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142"></a>[pg142]</span>
that place twenty-five cents per quart were demanded by
the French settlers. It is commonly remarked that the
French, as well as the Indians, who have been long in the
immediate vicinity of the whites, charge a much higher
price for any article than the Anglo-Americans, under the
same circumstances. Emigrants from the southern states
prefer sour milk; and the traveller's taste in this particular,
we have often observed, forms a test to discover
whether he is entitled to the opprobrious name of <i>Yankee</i>,
as the people of the northern and eastern states rarely
choose sour milk. We have found that in some of the
sickliest parts of the valley of the Mississippi, where bilious
and typhoid fevers prevail, through the summer and
autumn, the most unrestrained use is made of butter, milk,
eggs, and similar articles of diet. Dr. Baldwin was of
opinion that the <i>milk sickness</i> of the Missouri did not
originate from any deleterious vegetable substance eaten
by the cows, but {78} was a species of typhus, produced by
putrid exhalations, and perhaps aggravated by an incautious
use of a milk diet.</p>
<p>During the few days we remained at Cote Sans Dessein,
Dr. Baldwin, though suffering much from weakness, and
yielding perceptibly to the progress of a fatal disease, was
able to make several excursions on shore. His devotion
to a fascinating pursuit stimulated him to exertions for
which the strength of his wasted frame seemed wholly inadequate;
and it is not, perhaps, improbable that his efforts
may have somewhat hastened the termination of his life.</p>
<p>Between Loutre Island and Cote Sans Dessein compact limestone
occurs, in horizontal strata, along the sides of the Missouri
valley. It is of a bluish white colour, compact structure, and a
somewhat concoidal fracture, containing <span class="xxpgn"><a
name="Page_143" id="Page_143">[Pg 143]</a></span>few organic
remains. It alternates with sandstones, having a silicious
cement.<a name="FNanchor_121" id="FNanchor_121"></a><a
href="#Footnote_121" class="fnanchor">[109]</a> These horizontal
strata are deeply covered with soil, usually a calcareous loam,
intermixed with decayed vegetable matter.<span class="xxpgn"><a
name="Page_144" id="Page_144"></a>[pg144]</span></p>
<p>July 6th.—Soon after leaving the settlement of Cote
Sans Dessein, we passed the upper and larger mouth of
the Osage river. Here, to use the language of the country,
a town has been <i>located</i>, and the lots lately disposed of at
St. Louis, at various prices, from fifty to one hundred and
eighty dollars each.<a name="FNanchor_122" id="FNanchor_122"></a>
<a href="#Footnote_122" class="fnanchor">[110]</a> Within the limits of this town is a
considerable hill, rising at the point of the junction of the
two rivers, and running parallel to the Missouri. From
its summit is an extensive view of the village of Cote Sans
Dessein, and the surrounding country.</p>
<p>The river of the Osages, so called from the well-known
tribe of Indians inhabiting its banks, enters the Missouri
one hundred and thirty-three miles above the confluence
of the latter river with the Mississippi. Its sources are in
the Ozark mountains, opposite those of the White river of
the Mississippi, and of the Neosho, {79} a tributary of the
Arkansa. Flowing along the base of the north-western
slope of a mountainous range, it receives from the east several
rapid and beautiful rivers, of which the largest is the
Yungar, (so named, in some Indian language, from the
great number of springs tributary to it,) entering the Osage
one hundred and forty miles from the Missouri.</p>
<p>In point of magnitude the Osage ranks nearly with the
Cumberland and Tennessee. It has been represented as
navigable for six hundred miles; but as its current is known
to be rapid, flowing over great numbers of shoals and sand-bars,
this must be considered an exaggeration. In the
lower part of its course it traverses broad and fertile
bottom lands, bearing heavy forests of sycamore and cotton<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145"></a>[pg145]</span>
trees. We may expect the country along the banks of this
river will soon become the seat of a numerous population,
as it possesses in a fertile soil and a mild climate, advantages
more than sufficient to compensate for the difficulty
of access, and other inconveniences of situation.</p>
<p>The northern bank of the Missouri, for some distance
above the confluence of the Osage, is hilly. Moreau's
Creek enters three miles above; and at its mouth is Cedar
Island, where we anchored for the night. This island is
three miles long, and has furnished much cedar timber
for the settlements below; but its supply is now nearly
exhausted.<a name="FNanchor_123" id="FNanchor_123"></a><a href="#Footnote_123" class="fnanchor">[111]</a></p>
<p>In the afternoon of the following day we were entangled
among great numbers of <i>snags</i> and <i>planters</i>, and had a
cat-head carried away by one of them. In shutting off
the steam on this occasion, one of the valves was displaced;
and as we were no longer able to confine the
steam, the engine became useless, the boat being thus exposed
to imminent danger. At length we succeeded in
extricating ourselves; and came to an anchor near the
entrance of a small stream, called Mast Creek by Lewis
and Clarke.<a name="FNanchor_124" id="FNanchor_124"></a><a href="#Footnote_124" class="fnanchor">[112]</a></p>
<p>{80} At evening dense cumulostratus and cirrostratus
clouds skirted the horizon: above these we observed a
comet bearing north-west by north. Above the mouth of
the Osage, the immediate valley of the Missouri gradually<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146"></a>[pg146]</span>
expands, embracing some wide bottoms, in which are
many settlements increasing rapidly in the number of
inhabitants. The Manito rocks, and some other precipitous
cliffs, are the terminations of low ranges of hills running
in quite to the river. These hills sometimes occasion
rapids in the river, as in the instance of the Manito rocks;
opposite which commences a group of small islands
stretching obliquely across the Missouri, and separated by
narrow channels, in which the current is stronger than
below. Some of these channels we found obstructed by
collections of floating trees, which usually accumulate
about the heads of islands, and are here called rafts.
After increasing to a certain extent, portions of these rafts
becoming loosened, float down the river, sometimes covering
nearly its whole surface, and greatly endangering
the safety, and impeding the progress, of such boats as are
ascending. The group above mentioned is called the
Thousand Islands.</p>
<p>Nashville, Smithton, Rectorsville, and numerous other
towns of similar character and name, containing from one
to half a dozen houses each, are to be met with in a few
miles above the Little Manito rocks. Almost every
settler, who has established himself on the Missouri, is
confidently expecting that his farm is, in a few years, to
become the seat of wealth and business, and the mart for
an extensive district.<a name="FNanchor_125" id="FNanchor_125"></a>
<a href="#Footnote_125" class="fnanchor">[113]</a></p>
<p class="pgalone"><span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_147"
id="Page_147"></a>[pg147]</span></p>
<p>The banks of the Missouri, in this part, present an alternation
of low alluvial bottoms and rocky cliffs. Roche à Pierce Creek is
a small stream entering nearly opposite another, called Splice
Creek, a few miles above the Manito rocks. Here is a range of
rocky cliffs, penetrated by numerous cavities and fissures, {81}
hence called by the French boatmen, Roche a Piercè, and giving
name to the creek.<a name="FNanchor_126" id="FNanchor_126"></a><a
href="#Footnote_126" class="fnanchor">[114]</a> These rocks we
found filled with organic remains, chiefly encrinites. About
eight or ten miles above this point the Missouri again washes
the base of the rocky hills, which bound its immediate valley.
The rocks advance boldly to the brink of the river, exhibiting a
perpendicular front, variegated with several colours arranged in
broad stripes. Here is a fine spring of water gushing out at the
base of the precipice; over it are several rude paintings executed
by the Indians. These cliffs are called the Big Manito rocks,
and appear to have been objects of peculiar veneration with the
aborigines, and have accordingly received the name of their Great
Spirit.</p>
<p>It is not to be understood that the general surface of the
country, of which we are now speaking, is traversed by
continuous ridges, which, in their course across the valley
of the Missouri, occasion the alternation of hill and plain;
which to a person ascending the river, forms the most conspicuous
feature of the country. The immediate valley of
the Missouri preserves great uniformity in breadth, and is
bounded on both sides by chains of rocky bluffs rising from
one to two hundred feet above the surface of the included
valley, and separating it from those vast woodless plains<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148"></a>[pg148]</span>
which overspread so great a part of the country. Meandering
from right to left along this valley the river alternately
washes the base of the bluffs on either side, while,
from a person passing up or down the stream, the heavy
forests intercept the view of the bluffs, except at the points
where they are thus disclosed. Opposite the Big Manito
rocks, and the island of the same name, is the Little Saline
river, on the left side; and three or four miles above, on
the opposite side, a stream called the Big Manito Creek.<a name="FNanchor_127" id="FNanchor_127"></a><a href="#Footnote_127" class="fnanchor">[115]</a>
Here we passed the night of the 12th July. About midnight
so violent a storm arose that we were {82} compelled
to leave our encampment on shore, the tent being blown
down, and to seek shelter on board the boat. Though the
storm did not continue long, the water fell to the depth of
one inch and an half.</p>
<p>After taking in a supply of wood, we departed on the
morning of the 13th, and the same day arrived at Franklin.
This town, at present, increasing more rapidly than any
other on the Missouri, had been commenced but two years
and an half before the time of our journey. It then contained
about one hundred and twenty log houses of one
story, several framed dwellings of two stories, and two of
brick, thirteen shops for the sale of merchandize, four
taverns, two smiths' shops, two large team-mills, two billiard-rooms,
a court-house, a log prison of two stories, a
post-office, and a printing-press issuing a weekly paper.
At this time bricks were sold at ten dollars per thousand,
corn at twenty-five cents per bushel, wheat one dollar,
bacon at twelve and a half cents per pound, uncleared<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149"></a>[pg149]</span>
lands from two to ten or fifteen dollars per acre. The
price of labour was seventy-five cents per day.</p>
<p>In 1816 thirty families only of whites, were settled on
the left side of the Missouri, above Cote Sans Dessein.
In three years, their numbers had increased to more than
eight hundred families.</p>
<p>The Missouri bottoms about Franklin are wide, and
have the same prolific and inexhaustible soil as those
below. The labour of one slave is here reckoned sufficient
for the culture of twenty acres of Indian corn, and produces
ordinarily about sixty bushels per acre, at a single
crop. In the most fertile parts of Kentucky, fifteen acres
of corn are thought to require the labour of one slave, and
the crop being less abundant, we may reckon the products
of agriculture there, at about one third part less than in
the best lands on the Missouri. Franklin is the seat of
{83} justice for Howard county. It stands on a low and
recent alluvial plain, and has behind it a small stagnant
creek. The bed of the river, near the shore, has been
heretofore obstructed by sand-bars, which prevented large
boats from approaching the town; whether this evil will
increase or diminish, it is not possible to determine; such
is the want of stability in every thing belonging to the
channel of the Missouri. It is even doubtful whether the
present site of Franklin will not, at some future day, be
occupied by the river, which appears to be at this time
encroaching on its bank. Similar changes have happened
in the short period since the establishments of the first
settlements on the Missouri. The site of St. Anthony, a
town which existed about thirteen years since, near Bon
Homme, is now occupied by the channel of the river.
Opposite Franklin is Boonsville, containing, at the time<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150"></a>[pg150]</span>
of our visit, eight houses, but having, in some respects,
a more advantageous situation, and probably destined to
rival, if not surpass, its neighbour.<a name="FNanchor_128" id="FNanchor_128"></a><a href="#Footnote_128" class="fnanchor">[116]</a></p>
<p>Numerous brine springs are found in the country about
Franklin. Boon's Lick, four miles distant, was the earliest
settlement in this vicinity, and for some time gave name
to the surrounding country. Some furnaces have been
erected, and salt is manufactured, in sufficient quantities
to supply the neighbouring settlements. Compact limestone
appears to be the prevailing rock, but it is well known
that the coal-beds, and strata of sand-stone, occur at a
little distance from the river.<a name="FNanchor_129" id="FNanchor_129"></a><a href="#Footnote_129" class="fnanchor">[117]</a> We visited one establishment
for the manufacture of salt. The brine is taken
from a spring at the surface of the earth, and is not remarkably
concentrated, yielding only one bushel of salt
to each four hundred and fifty gallons. Eighty bushels
are manufactured daily, and require three cords of wood
for the evaporation of the water. The furnace consists
of a chimney-like funnel, rising obliquely along the side of
a hill, {84} instead of the vertical and horizontal flues,
commonly used in these manufactories. The fire being
kindled in the lower orifice of this, the ascent of the air<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151"></a>[pg151]</span>
drives the flame against forty or fifty iron pots, inserted in
a double series; to these the water is conveyed by small
pipes. The banks of the ravine in which this spring rises,
still retain the traces of those numerous herds of bisons,
elk, and other herbivorous animals, which formerly resorted
here for their favourite condiment.</p>
<p>While at Franklin, the gentlemen of the exploring party
received many gratifying attentions, particularly from
Gen. T. A. Smith, at whose house they were often hospitably
received, and where they all dined by invitation
on the 17th of July.<a name="FNanchor_130"
id="FNanchor_130"></a><a href="#Footnote_130" class="fnanchor">[118]</a>
Here we met several intelligent
inhabitants of the village, and of the surrounding country,
from whose conversation we were able to collect much information
of the character of the country, and the present
condition of the settlements.</p>
<p>Mr. Munroe, a resident of Franklin, related to us, that
being on a hunting excursion, in the year 1816, he remained
some time on a branch of the Le Mine river, where he
found the relics of the encampment of a large party of
men, but whether of white troops, or Indian warriors, he
could not determine. Not far from this encampment, he
observed a recent mound of earth, about eight feet in
height, which he was induced to believe must be a cachè,
or place of deposit, for the spoils which the party, occupying
the encampment, had taken from an enemy, and which
they could not remove with them on their departure. He<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152"></a>[pg152]</span>
accordingly opened the mound, and was surprised to find
in it the body of a white officer, apparently a man of rank,
and which had been interred with extraordinary care.</p>
<p>The body was placed in a sitting posture, upon an
Indian rush mat, with its back resting against some logs
placed around it in the manner of a log house, enclosing
{85} a space of about three by five feet, and about four feet
high, covered at top with a mat similar to that beneath.
The clothing was still in sufficient preservation to enable
him to distinguish a red coat, trimmed with gold lace,
golden epaulets, a spotted buff waistcoat, finished also with
gold lace, and pantaloons of white nankeen. On the head
was a round beaver hat, and a bamboo walking stick, with
the initials J. M. C. engraved upon a golden head, reclined
against the arm, but was somewhat decayed where it came
in contact with the muscular part of the leg. On raising
the hat, it was found that the deceased had been hastily
scalped.</p>
<p>To what nation this officer belonged, Mr. Munroe could
not determine. He observed, however, that the button
taken from the shoulder, had the word Philadelphia
moulded upon it. The cane still remains in the possession
of the narrator, but the button was taken by another of
his party.</p>
<p>In relation to this story, Gen. Smith observed, that
when he commanded the United States' troops in this department,
he was informed of an action that had taken
place near the Le Mine, in the Autumn of 1815, between
some Spanish dragoons, aided by a few Pawnee Indians,
and a war party of Sauks and Foxes. In the course of
this action, a Spanish officer had pursued an Indian boy,
who was endeavouring to escape with a musket on his<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153"></a>[pg153]</span>
shoulder, but who finding himself nearly overtaken, had
discharged the musket behind him at random, and had
killed the officer on the spot. The skirmish continuing,
the body was captured, and recaptured several times, but
at last remained with the Spanish party. This may possibly
have been the body discovered by Mr. Munroe, but
by whom it was buried, in a manner so singular, is unknown.</p>
<p>About the middle of July, the summer freshets in the
Missouri began to subside at Franklin. On the {86} 17th
the water fell twelve inches, though in the preceding week
more than two inches of rain had fallen. We were informed
that the floods had continued longer this year, and
had risen higher than usual, owing to the unusual quantities
of rain that had fallen.</p>
<h2 title="Chapter V"><a name="Chapter_V" id="Chapter_V"></a>
<span class="smaller">{87}</span> CHAPTER V</h2>
<p class="chaphead">Death of Dr. Baldwin—Charaton River, and Settlement—Pedestrian
Journey from Franklin to Fort Osage.</p>
<p class="toclink"><a href="#CONTENTS_OF_VOLUME_XIV">toc</a></p>
<p>Dr. Baldwin's health had so much declined that, on our
arrival at Franklin, he was induced to relinquish the intention
of ascending farther with the party. He was removed on shore
to the house of Dr. Lowry, intending to remain there until he
should recover so much strength as might enable him to return
to his family. But the hopes of his friends, even for his
partial recovery, were not to be realized. He lingered a few
weeks after our departure, and expired on the thirty-first
of August. His diary, in which the latest date is the eighth
of August, only a few days previous to his death, shows with
what earnestness,<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_154"
id="Page_154"></a>[pg154]</span> even in the last stages of
weakness and disease, his mind was devoted to the pursuit,
in which he had so nobly spent the most important part of
his life. He has left behind him a name which will long be
honoured;—his early death will be regretted not only by those
who knew his value as a friend, but by all the lovers of that
fascinating science, to which his life was dedicated, and which
his labours have so much contributed to advance and embellish.
We regret that it is not in our power to add to this inadequate
testimony of respect, such notices of the life and writings
of Dr. Baldwin, as might be satisfactory to our readers. His
manuscripts were numerous, but his works were left unfinished.
The remarks on the Rotbollia, published in Silliman's Journal,
are his only productions, as far as we are informed, hitherto
before the public.<a name="FNanchor_131" id="FNanchor_131"></a><a
href="#Footnote_131" class="fnanchor">[119]</a> His Herbarium,
it is well known, {88} has contributed to enrich the works of
Pursh and Nuttall. He was the friend and correspondent of the
venerable Muhlenbergh, and contributed materials for the copious
catalogue of North American plants, published by that excellent
botanist. In South America he met with Bonpland, the illustrious
companion of Humboldt, and a friendly correspondence was
established between them, which continued<span class="xxpgn"><a
name="Page_155" id="Page_155"></a>[pg155]</span> until
his death.<a name="FNanchor_132" id="FNanchor_132"></a><a
href="#Footnote_132" class="fnanchor">[120]</a> He had travelled
extensively, not only in South America, but in Georgia, Florida,
and other parts of North America. His notes and collections
are extensive and valuable. During the short period of his
connection with the exploring party, the infirmities, resulting
from a long established and incurable pulmonary disease, then
rapidly approaching its fatal termination, could not overcome
the activity of his mind, or divert his attention entirely from
his favourite pursuit. Though unable to walk on shore, he caused
plants to be collected and brought on board the boat; and not
disheartened by the many vexations attending this method of
examination, he persevered, and in the course of the voyage from
Pittsburgh to Franklin, detected and described many new plants,
and added many valuable observations relating to such as were
before known. To show the scope and accuracy of his method of
observation, and for the gratification of the botanical reader,
we subjoin a part of the observations registered in Dr. Baldwin's
diary, from July 15th, the time of our departure from Cote Sans
Dessein, to its conclusion. From this the reader will be able
to form a satisfactory idea of the vegetable physiognomy of
the country on this portion of the banks of the Missouri.<a
name="FNanchor_133" id="FNanchor_133"></a><a href="#Footnote_133"
class="fnanchor">[121]</a></p>
<p class="pgalone"><span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_157"
id="Page_157"></a>[pg157]</span></p>
<p>Messrs. Say, Jessup, Seymour, and Dougherty, accompanied by
Major Biddle, left Franklin on the 19th of July, intending to
traverse the country by land, to Fort Osage, where they proposed
to await the arrival of the steamboat. A pack-horse was purchased
{89} for the transportation of their baggage, and a tent,
blankets, and provisions, furnished for their accommodation.</p>
<p>The party now remaining on board the steam-boat, consisted
of Major Long, Major O'Fallon, Mr. Peale, and
Lieutenants Graham and Swift. Having completed some
repairs of machinery, and other necessary operations,
which had occasioned a delay of six days at Franklin, we
left that place on the same day, at four o'clock in the afternoon.
The inhabitants of the village were assembled on
the banks of the river to witness our departure, and signified
their good wishes by repeated cheers and acclamations.
The fuel we had taken on board, being of an indifferent
quality, we were able to make small progress
against the rapid current of the Missouri. We anchored,
for the night, three miles above Franklin. Finding the
valves, and other parts of the steam-engine, so much worn
by the fine sand, suspended in the water of the river, as to
become leaky, we were compelled to lie by, and were occupied
for a day in making repairs. In the meantime the
boat's crew were employed in taking on board a supply of
dry mulberry wood, which is the best that the forests along
the Missouri afford. The water in the river was now subsiding,
and the rapidity of the current consequently diminishing;
we did not, therefore, so much regret the necessary
delays, as we might otherwise have done. Some of the
party went out on the south-west side of the river, to search
for game. Most of the deer, and larger animals, as well as<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_158" id="Page_158"></a>[pg158]</span>
the turkies, have fled from this part of the country, though
it is but a few years since they were extremely abundant;
they met, however, with a racoon, the Maryland arctomys,
some small birds, and some interesting little animals.
After leaving the river bottom, they passed some
groves of small scattered oak trees, and bushes, and arrived
at the margin of a wide grassy plain, which spread before
them as unvaried, {90} and apparently as boundless as the
ocean, and which is said to extend uninterrupted, near
three hundred miles, to the Arkansa.</p>
<p>At evening a soldier came on board the boat, who had
been sent express from Colonel Chambers' command. He
brought intelligence that the detachment had arrived
within fifteen miles of Fort Osage, and that their provisions
were nearly exhausted.</p>
<p>Charaton, where we arrived on the 22d, is a small village,
its settlement having been commenced in the year
1817. It is, however, in a flourishing condition, and from
the advantages of its situation, promises to become one of
the most important towns on the Missouri. It does not
stand immediately on the bank of the Missouri, but of the
Charaton river, about seven hundred yards above its
mouth. Charaton will be the depot of merchandize, for a
large extent of fertile country, which lies towards the north
and east. At this time, the settlement contained about
fifty houses, and near five hundred inhabitants, on a spot
where two years previous, no permanent habitation had
been established. Such is the rapidity, with which the
forests of the Missouri are becoming filled with an enterprising
and industrious population.<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159"></a>[pg159]</span><a name="FNanchor_134" id="FNanchor_134"></a><a href="#Footnote_134" class="fnanchor">[122]</a></p>
<p>Charaton river is seventy-five yards wide at its mouth,
and navigable, at high water, one hundred and fifty miles.
Half a mile from its confluence with the Missouri, it
receives the Little Charaton, also a considerable stream,
and navigable for many miles. The Charaton originates
near the De Moyen<a name="FNanchor_135" id="FNanchor_135"></a><a href="#Footnote_135" class="fnanchor">[123]</a> river of the Mississippi, and traverses
a country which is of great importance, both on account of
the fertility of its soil, and its inexhaustible mines of coal.
The Western Engineer, being the first steam-boat that
had ever ascended the Missouri, above Charaton, great
numbers of the settlers were attracted to the banks of the
river, on both sides, to witness our progress. So numerous
were the obstacles to be encountered, that many were
of opinion our progress {91} would soon be arrested. It
sometimes happened, that mistaking the channel, we ran
our boat aground in shoal places, and in some instances it
was necessary to fall back, in order to extricate ourselves
from these difficulties. In this way much time was consumed.</p>
<p>The expansions of the Missouri bottom above Franklin
have, since their settlement, received distinctive names.
We pass on the south the Chenai au Barre, Tabeau, Tite-saw,
and Miami bottoms; on the north, those of Charaton,
Sugar-tree, and Grand river. These are wild and fertile<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160"></a>[pg160]</span>
plains, usually covered with heavy forests of cotton-wood,
sycamore, ash, and sugar-maple, and partly encircled by
the bluffs, rising abruptly, about to the elevation of the
highest trees, thence sloping gradually to the prairies, the
region of the Gramina, and the Cyperacæa. Eighteen
miles above Charaton, is the entrance of Grand river an
important tributary to the Missouri from the north. This
river is one hundred and fifty yards wide at its mouth, and
is navigable for boats of small burthen, about two hundred
miles. Its waters are transparent, except in times of high
floods, and its current less rapid than that of the Missouri.
There are no settlements on its banks, except at the
mouth, where is a trading house, and the residence of a
single family. The lands are, however, of a good quality,
and the adequate supply of timber, and numerous springs
of water, will ensure their speedy settlement. The Sauks,
Foxes, and Ioways, hunt in the plains towards the sources
of Grand river, where elk and deer are still numerous,
and the latter dispose of their pelfries to the traders on the
Missouri.<a name="FNanchor_136" id="FNanchor_136"></a><a href="#Footnote_136" class="fnanchor">[124]</a></p>
<p>The navigation of the Missouri, for a few miles above
and below the mouth of Grand river, is supposed to be
more difficult than at almost any other place, owing to the
rapidity of the current, and the numerous sand-bars and
snags. Two miles above the confluence is the channel
called Grand river {92} Cut-Off, so thickly set with snags
as to be almost impassable. The distance by the Cut-Off
to the head of the island is three-fourths of a mile;
by the course of the river to the same point it is six miles.<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161"></a>[pg161]</span><a name="FNanchor_137" id="FNanchor_137"></a><a href="#Footnote_137" class="fnanchor">[125]</a>
We followed the old channel, which is much obstructed by
trunks of trees and sand-bars, and after a few hours succeeded
in ascending this dangerous pass. Compact limestone,
and argillaceous sandstone, occur frequently along
the Missouri, above the mouth of Grand river, and
indications of coal are often met with. In a country affording
but an insufficient supply of timber for the consumption
of a dense population, these extensive beds of fossil
coal will be considered of great value, and the necessities
of the inhabitants will lead to their early exploration.
Whenever the dominion of man is sufficiently established
in these vast plains to prevent the annual ravages of fires,
trees will spring up; but we may expect that before forests
originating in this manner can arrive at maturity, the population
along the banks of the Missouri will become so
dense, as to require the greater part of the soil for the purposes
of culture.</p>
<p>The beds of coal in this district lie horizontally, varying
much in thickness, and occurring often at an elevation of
a few feet above the surface of the water in the Missouri.<a name="FNanchor_138" id="FNanchor_138"></a><a href="#Footnote_138" class="fnanchor">[126]</a></p>
<p>On the first of August we arrived at Fort Osage, one
hundred and five miles above the mouth of Grand river.
Here Mr. Say and his party had been some days encamped,
having arrived on the 24th of July from their equestrian
journey across the country from Franklin. After leaving
that place on the 19th, they passed through a fine bottom
on the left side of the river, closely covered with forests of
oaks, elms, hackberry, walnut, the mulberry, the gleditschia,
the guilandina, and the other trees common on<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162"></a>[pg162]</span>
the Missouri, for twelve miles, when they arrived at Arrow
rock, where is a ferry by which they crossed {93} the Missouri.
In this walk they passed a field of corn, containing
seven hundred acres. The ferry boat used at Arrow
rock is one peculiarly adapted to the navigation of a rapid
stream. It consists of two canoes, on which rests a platform,
with a slight railing to prevent cattle from falling off.</p>
<p>Arrow rock is so called from its having been formerly
resorted to, by the neighbouring Indians, for the stone
used to point their arrows. It is a beautiful situation,
and rises to considerable elevation above the water.<a
name="FNanchor_139" id="FNanchor_139"></a><a href="#Footnote_139"
class="fnanchor">[127]</a> From its summit is a pleasing view
of the river, and near the base is a remarkable eddy, which, as
they were crossing, whirled their ferry-boat entirely round. On
the second day they left their encampment at an early hour, and
travelled forward through plains where very few trees were to be
seen. They turned off from the Osage trace, in which they had been
travelling, and went eight miles to visit the salt-works, and some
remarkable diggings, on the saline fork of the Le Mine. Here, at
one establishment, one hundred bushels of salt are manufactured
per week; eight men are employed, and one hundred and eighty
gallons of water are evaporated to produce a bushel of salt.<a
name="FNanchor_140" id="FNanchor_140"></a><a href="#Footnote_140"
class="fnanchor">[128]</a></p>
<p class="pgalone"><span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163"></a>[pg163]</span></p>
<p>Two miles from the confluence of the Camp Fork with
the Saline, are the salt-works, and the residence of Mr.
Lockhart, who received the detachment with much hospitality.</p>
<p>His works were not then in operation, but were sufficiently
extensive for the manufacture of five hundred
bushels of salt per week. Near his house are the <i>diggings</i>
so often mentioned in this region as objects of curiosity.
These are irregular, but very numerous excavations of
little depth, but evidently the result of the united labours
of many persons who were possessed of instruments of
iron and steel, as no others could have penetrated, and
removed the compact rocky soil, of which the points and
brows of the hills are composed. These excavations occur
frequently {94} in an extent of two or three miles; and from
the amount of labour which appears to have been expended
on them, it has been thought by some, that several
hundred men must have been occupied two or three years
in digging them; but this is, doubtless, much overrated.
Whoever were the labourers; it is probable their search
was for the precious metals, though at present no indications
of any metallic ores, except of a little iron, are perceptible
about the diggings. Mr. Lockhart had sunk a
shaft to the depth of twenty-two feet, but the appearances
continued the same as at the surface.<a name="FNanchor_141" id="FNanchor_141"></a><a href="#Footnote_141" class="fnanchor">[129]</a></p>
<p>After travelling forty miles from Arrow rock, for great
part of the way through open plains, where the high grass<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164"></a>[pg164]</span>
and weeds rendered their progress difficult and laborious,
they pitched their tent, on the evening of July 21st, on a
branch of the Le Mine. Here they saw four Mississippi
kites. The forks of the tail of this bird are so much
elongated as to resemble some fortuitous appendage, for
which, at first sight, they are often mistaken. Sandhill
cranes, and flocks of prairie hens were also seen, but were
so shy as not to be taken without much difficulty.</p>
<p>The country about the Le Mine is beautiful and fertile.
The unaccustomed eye, in roving over those extensive
undulating prairies, is beguiled by the alternation of forests
and meadows, arranged with an appearance of order, as
if by the labour of men, and seeks in vain to repose upon
some cottage or mansion embosomed in the little copses of
trees, or in the edge of the forest, which margins the small
streams and ravines in the distance.</p>
<p>Their provisions being nearly exhausted, the detachment
delayed a short time at their encampment on the Le
Mine, to replenish their stock by hunting. This camp
was near a place called the Grand Pass, a narrow neck of
prairie between the timber of the Saline, and that of a
small creek discharging directly {95} into the Missouri.
Here the Osage trace passes, and a little beyond falls
into a waggon-road leading to the Tabeau settlement.<a name="FNanchor_142" id="FNanchor_142"></a><a href="#Footnote_142" class="fnanchor">[130]</a></p>
<p>On the 22nd Major Biddle experienced a severe attack
of cramp in the stomach, but soon found some relief from<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165"></a>[pg165]</span>
swallowing a quantity of ginger, the only medicine with
which they were provided. On the following day they
entered the forests of the Missouri bottom, and soon after
crossed the Tabeau, where a town of the same name, at
that time containing two houses, had been established.
Tabeau is the name of a Canadian hunter, who formerly
frequented this region.<a name="FNanchor_143" id="FNanchor_143"></a><a href="#Footnote_143" class="fnanchor">[131]</a> The creek is navigable to the
site of the projected town, about one mile from the Missouri,
having for this distance about six feet of water.
Four miles from this place they crossed the Little Tabeau,
and at evening pitched their tent on a stream called the
Little Chenal au Barre, about a mile and a half from the
Missouri. Here is a good mill seat. The Great and
Little Chenal au Barre, are two creeks entering the Missouri
about a mile and a half from each other. Before the
mouths of these two creeks is a large island, the slough or
Chenal dividing this island from the shore, received the
additional name of Au Barre from a hunter known by
that appellation, who was lost here for some time, successively
ascending the two creeks, which he mistook for
the Missouri; hence the name of Chenal au Barre island,
Great and Little Chenal au Barre Creek, &c.<a name="FNanchor_144" id="FNanchor_144"></a><a href="#Footnote_144" class="fnanchor">[132]</a></p>
<p>In the afternoon they halted to rest at the cabin of a
hunter on Fire Prairie Creek, so called from the circumstance
of three or four Indians having been burned to
death by the sudden conflagration of the dry grass in the<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166"></a>[pg166]</span>
meadows at its source.<a name="FNanchor_145" id="FNanchor_145"></a><a href="#Footnote_145" class="fnanchor">[133]</a> Here Mr. Say had an opportunity
to examine a young black wolf, which was confined
by a chain at the door of the hut. These animals are
common in this part of the country. This individual was
one of five that had been taken from the same den. It
had become {96} familiar with the hunter and his family,
but was shy towards strangers. When fed on meat the
ferocity of his disposition manifested itself in attempts to
bite the children. It was ordinarily fed on bread and
milk.</p>
<p>This man had been settled here two years, but had not
"made a crop," having subsisted himself and his family
by hunting, wherein he had been very successful. In the
preceding autumn he had killed seventy deer and fifty
bears. He took great pleasure in relating his hunting adventures,
particularly his engagements with bears. One
bear which he had killed, he said, weighed seven hundred
pounds; but in this instance he was probably mistaken.
He had seen in the winter of 1818, a large herd of bisons
near the Grand Pass; but they had been driven down by
the severity of the weather, and were not ordinarily to be
found within the limits of his hunting excursions. During
the severe wintry weather, he affirmed that bears make
for themselves a shelter of brushwood, into which they
creep to secure themselves from the cold.</p>
<p>From May until July the female of the common deer conceals her
young whilst she goes to feed. It is at this time that the hunters
take advantage of the maternal feelings<span class="xxpgn"><a
name="Page_167" id="Page_167"></a>[pg167]</span> of the animal
to secure their prey. They conceal themselves and imitate the
cry of the fawn. The solicitude of the parent animal for her
young overcomes her usual care for her own safety; and believing
she hears the cries of her offspring in distress, she hurries
toward the spot where the hunter lies concealed, and falls
an easy prey.<a name="FNanchor_146" id="FNanchor_146"></a><a
href="#Footnote_146" class="fnanchor">[134]</a></p>
<p class="pgalone"><span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_168"
id="Page_168"></a>[pg168]</span></p>
<p>Mr. Say and his companions were very politely received by
Col. Chambers, then at Fort Osage. The rifle regiment was
encamped here, waiting the arrival of the contractor's boats.<a
name="FNanchor_147" id="FNanchor_147"></a><a href="#Footnote_147"
class="fnanchor">[135]</a></p>
<p>Fort Osage was established in 1808, by Gov. Lewis. It
stands on an elevated bluff, commanding a beautiful view
of the river, both above and below. The {97} works are a
stockade, of an irregular pentagonal form, with strong log
pickets perforated with loop-holes; two block houses are
placed at opposite angles; one of them, however, flanks
one of its curtains too obliquely to be of much service in
defending it. There is also a small bastion at a third
angle. Within are two series of buildings for quarters,
store-houses, &c. The position of the fort is not a secure
one, on account of numerous ravines and declivities that
would cover an enemy within a short distance; but is such,
that boats ascending or descending the river must be exposed
to its fire. The stream in the middle of the river,
and on the opposite side, is so remarkably rapid, that it is
in vain to contend against it with the oar or paddle; it is,
therefore, usually necessary for ascending boats to enter
the eddy, which brings them within musket-shot of the
fort.<a name="FNanchor_148" id="FNanchor_148"></a><a href="#Footnote_148" class="fnanchor">[136]</a></p>
<p>At the time of our journey, Fort Osage, which, according<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169"></a>[pg169]</span>
to our estimate, is one hundred and forty-two miles, by the
course of the river, above Charaton, was the extreme frontier
of the settlements. For a great distance below, the
establishments of the white settlers were confined to the
immediate banks of the Missouri. The inhabitants of
this frontier are mostly emigrants from Tennessee, and are
hospitable to strangers. Many of them are possessed of
considerable wealth. In the inhabitants of the new States
and Territories there is a manifest propensity, particularly
in the males, to remove westward, for which it is not easy
to account. The women, having their attention directed
almost exclusively to domestic pursuits, form local attachments,
and establish habits, which are not interrupted
without occasioning some disquietude. They are at first
discontented in their new abode; in a few weeks they become
reconciled, but less attached than to their former
home; and, at length, by the habit of frequent migration,
they {98} acquire the same fondness for an adventurous
unsettled life, as characterises the men.</p>
<p>Daniel Boon, whose history is connected with that of
all the new settlements from Kentucky westward, answered
to an inquiry concerning the cause of his frequent change
of residence, "I think it time to remove when I can no
longer fall a tree for fuel, so that its top will lie within a few
yards of the door of my cabin."<a name="FNanchor_149" id="FNanchor_149"></a><a href="#Footnote_149" class="fnanchor">[137]</a> The charms of that
mode of life, wherein the artificial wants and the uneasy
restraints inseparable from a crowded population are not
known, wherein we feel ourselves dependent immediately
and solely on the bounty of nature, and the strength of our
own arm, will not be appreciated by those to whom they<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170"></a>[pg170]</span>
are known only from description, though they never fail to
make an impression upon such as have acquired a knowledge
of them from experience. A settler on the Missouri
observed to us, that the land he at present occupied was not
better than that he had left in Tennessee; but he did not
wish to spend all his life in one place, and he had learned
from experience, that a man might live in greater ease and
freedom where his neighbours were not very numerous.</p>
<p>A person upwards of sixty years old, who had recently
arrived at one of the highest settlements of the Missouri,
inquired of us very particularly of the river Platte, and of
the quality of the lands about its source. We discovered
that he had the most serious intention of removing with his
family to that river. On the last day of July and the first
of August, about two inches of rain fell: the prevailing
winds were from the north-east; but the superior strata of
the atmosphere carried clouds of different descriptions in
different, and sometimes opposite directions. The moon
soon after rising, passed behind a long dense body of cirrus
clouds, that floated over the eastern horizon. Long and
distinct radii were soon after seen converging to a point
fifteen or twenty of {99} the moon's diameters to the eastward
of its disk. Such is the refracting power of the
aqueous vapors sometimes suspended in the atmosphere.</p>
<p>Horizontal strata of sandstone and compact lime stone,
are disclosed in the cliffs on both sides the valley of the
Missouri. These rocks contain numerous remains of
caryophilla, productus, and terebratulæ.<a
name="FNanchor_150" id="FNanchor_150"></a><a
href="#Footnote_150" class="fnanchor">[138]</a></p>
<p class="pgalone"><span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171"></a>[pg171]</span></p>
<p>Some days passed after our arrival at Fort Osage, before
the weather admitted our making the astronomical observations
necessary to ascertain its position. The mean of
the results of several observations of the meridian altitude
of the sun's lower limb gave 39° 9′ 33½″ north, for the
latitude of the place.</p>
<h2 title="Chapter VI"><a name="Chapter_VI" id="Chapter_VI"></a>
<span class="smaller">{100}</span> CHAPTER VI</h2>
<p class="chaphead">Mouth of the Konzas—Arrival at Wolf River—Journey
by land from Fort Osage to the village of the Konzas.</p>
<p class="toclink"><a href="#CONTENTS_OF_VOLUME_XIV">toc</a></p>
<p>Wishing to extend our examinations between Fort
Osage and the Konzas river, also between that river and
the Platte, a party was detached from the steam-boat, with<span
class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172"></a>[pg172]</span>
instructions to cross the Konzas at the Konza village,
thence to traverse the country by the nearest route to the
Platte, and to descend that river to the Missouri. The
party consisted of Mr. Say, to whom the command was
entrusted, Messrs. Jessup, Peale, and Seymour, Cadet
Swift, Mr. J. Dougherty, and five soldiers. They were
furnished with three pack-horses, and a supply of provisions
for ten days. Thus organized and equipped, they
commenced their march on the afternoon of August 6th,
accompanied by Major Biddle and his servant.</p>
<p>After their departure, the steam-boat was delayed a few
days at Fort Osage. On the ninth, a part of the troops
destined for the Missouri service arrived in keel-boats.
Colonel Chambers, with the principal part of his regiment,
were still at Fort Osage, awaiting the arrival of supplies of
provisions now daily expected.</p>
<p>On the following day we resumed our journey, and were
accompanied about ten miles by Mr. Sibley, agent of
Indian affairs, and his lady, to whom the gentlemen of the
party were indebted for numerous hospitable attentions
during their stay at Fort Osage; also by Captain Bissel,
and Lieutenant Pentland,<a name="FNanchor_151" id="FNanchor_151"></a><a href="#Footnote_151" class="fnanchor">[139]</a> of the rifle regiment, who returned
in a skiff. Our progress was much impeded by
shoals and rapids in the {101} river, but we succeeded in
passing these without warping, and anchored at sunset,
having ascended eighteen miles.</p>
<p>Between Fort Osage and the mouth of the Konzas river,
a distance of about fifty-two miles, are many rapid places<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_173" id="Page_173"></a>[pg173]</span>
in the Missouri. We were able to ascend all these, except
one, without towing. It was with some difficulty we supplied
our furnace with wood of a suitable quality. The
forests of the Missouri, though limited in extent, are deep
and shady, and though the atmosphere is perceptibly less
humid than in the forests of the Mississippi, fallen trees,
whose wood is soft and porous like that of the linden and
cotton tree, absorb much moisture from the ground. It
was only when we were so fortunate as to find a dry mulberry,
ash, or cotton-wood still standing, that we could
procure fuel well adapted to our purpose. Much time
was of necessity expended in cutting and bringing on board
our supplies of this article, and the additional delay occasioned
by the numerous obstacles to the easy navigation of
the river, made our ascent somewhat tedious.</p>
<p>The mouth of the Konzas river was so filled with mud,
deposited by the late flood in the Missouri, as scarcely to
admit the passage of our boat, though with some difficulty
we ascended that river about a mile, and then returning
dropped anchor opposite its mouth. The spring freshets
subside in the Konzas, the Osage, and all those tributaries
that do not derive their sources from the Rocky Mountains,
before the Missouri reaches its greatest fulness; consequently
the waters of the latter river, charged with mud,
flow into the mouths of its tributaries, and there becoming
nearly stagnant, deposit an extensive accumulation of mud
and slime. The Konzas river has a considerable resemblance
to the Missouri; but its current is more moderate,
and the water less turbid, except at times of high floods.
Its valley, like that of the Missouri, has a deep and fertile
soil, bearing similar {102} forests of cotton-wood, sycamore,
&c., interspersed with meadows; but, in ascending, trees<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174"></a>[pg174]</span>
become more and more scattered, and at length disappear
almost entirely, the country, at its sources, being one immense
prairie.<a name="FNanchor_152" id="FNanchor_152"></a><a href="#Footnote_152" class="fnanchor">[140]</a></p>
<p>We sailed from the mouth of the Konzas on the 13th of
August. Numerous sand-bars occur in the Missouri above
that point, and these occasioned us some delay. The
water having fallen several feet, we had less velocity of
current to contend against, but found it more necessary to
keep in the channel, and could not so often take advantage
of the eddy currents below the points and along the shore.</p>
<p>A party of white hunters were encamped on the Missouri,
not far above the Konzas. In the rudeness of their deportment
and dress, they appeared to us to surpass the
savages themselves. They are usually the most abandoned
and worthless among the whites who adopt the life
of wandering hunters: frequently they are men whose
crimes have excluded them from society.</p>
<p>Eighteen miles above the Konzas river, and five above the
Little Platte, is a large island, which, from its rhombic form,
has received the name of Diamond island. The principal channel
is on the north side. It is difficult to pass, being much
obstructed by sand-bars. Four miles above this is a small group,
called the Three Islands; and two miles further another cluster,
known as the Four Islands, and by the French as the Isles des
Parcs, or Field Islands. At each of these places, as in the
neighbourhood of islands generally, the navigation is difficult.<a
name="FNanchor_153" id="FNanchor_153"></a><a href="#Footnote_153"
class="fnanchor">[141]</a></p>
<p class="pgalone"><span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_175"
id="Page_175"></a>[pg175]</span></p>
<p>The site of an old village of the Konzas, and the remains
of a fortification erected by the French, were pointed out a
few miles below Isle au Vache. This island, which lies about
one hundred miles above Fort Osage, was the wintering post of
Capt. Martin's detachment, destined to proceed in advance of
the troops ordered to the Missouri. Captain Martin, {103} with
three companies of the rifle regiment, left Bellefontain in
September 1818, and arrived at Isle au Vache in October, with
the expectation of resuming his march as early in the following
spring as the weather would permit. But not having received the
necessary supplies of provisions as anticipated, they had been
compelled to remain till the time of our arrival, subsisting
themselves principally by hunting. Fortunately this part of the
country afforded so much game, that a competent supply was easily
obtained. Between two and three thousand deer, beside great
numbers of bears, turkies, &c., had been taken. The arrival of
the boats, laden with provisions, now furnished them the means of
continuing their ascent, and they had the prospect of departing
within a few days.<a name="FNanchor_154" id="FNanchor_154"></a><a
href="#Footnote_154" class="fnanchor">[142]</a></p>
<p class="pgalone"><span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_176"
id="Page_176"></a>[pg176]</span></p>
<p>Previous to our departure from Fort Osage, Major O'Fallon,
the Indian agent who accompanied us, had sent a messenger across
the country by land to the Konzas nation of Indians, residing
on the Konzas river, summoning their chiefs to a council, to be
held at Isle au Vache, on the arrival of the Western Engineer.<a
name="FNanchor_155" id="FNanchor_155"></a><a href="#Footnote_155"
class="fnanchor">[143]</a> Agreeably to the message sent by an
interpreter, the Indians had been expected on the 18th, but did
not arrive until the 23d of August, having been absent, when the
messenger reached their village, on a hunting excursion. As soon
as they received the invitation, they repaired with all convenient
speed to the appointed place, having sent runners before, to
apprise us of their approach.</p>
<p>The interpreter, who returned with them, brought intelligence
of the safe arrival of Mr. Say and his party, and
of their kind reception at the Konza village. We were
sorry to learn that Mr. Say had been in ill health, and had
not entirely recovered.</p>
<p>On the 24th, the chiefs and principal men of the Konzas,
to the number of one hundred and fifty, assembled under
an arbour prepared for their reception. The Indian agent
addressed them in a speech {104} adapted to the occasion,
setting forth the causes of complaint which they had given<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_177" id="Page_177"></a>[pg177]</span>
by their repeated insults and depredations upon the whites,
giving them notice of the approach of a military force, of
sufficient strength to chastise their insolence, and advising
them to seize the present opportunity of averting the vengeance
they deserved by proper concessions, and by their
future good behaviour to conciliate those, whose friendship
they would have so much occasion to desire.</p>
<p>The replies of the chiefs were simple and short, expressive
of their conviction of the justice of the complaints
made against them, and of their acquiescence in the terms
of reconciliation proposed by the agent. There were
present at this council one hundred and sixty-one Konzas,
including chiefs and warriors, and thirteen Osages. The
most distinguished men were Na-he-da-ba, or <i>Long Neck</i>,
one of the principal chiefs. Ka-he-ga-wa-ta-ning-ga,
<i>Little Chief</i>, second in rank. Shon-ga-ne-ga, who had
been one of the principal chiefs, but had resigned his
authority in favour of Ka-he-ga-wa-ta-ning-ga. Wa-ha-che-ra,
<i>Big Knife</i>, a partizan or leader of war parties.
Wom-pa-wa-ra, <i>He who scares all men</i>, more commonly
known to the whites as Plume Blanche, or White Plume,
a man rising rapidly in importance, and apparently destined
to become the leader of the nation.<a name="FNanchor_156"
id="FNanchor_156"></a><a href="#Footnote_156" class="fnanchor">[144]</a>
In addition
to the Indians, the officers of the garrison and a few gentlemen
were present at the council. The ceremonies were
commenced by a discharge of ordnance from the steamboat;
the flags were hoisted in their appropriate places, a
council flag being placed near the chair occupied by the
agent. The Indians appeared gratified at the displays<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_178" id="Page_178"></a>[pg178]</span>
made on the occasion, but their attention was more particularly
aroused by the exhibition of a few rockets and
shells, fired for their entertainment. At our departure,
which, on account of the Indians, was delayed until the
25th of August, many {105} of them were present, and
manifested some surprise at witnessing the operations of
the steam-boat.<a name="FNanchor_157" id="FNanchor_157"></a><a href="#Footnote_157" class="fnanchor">[145]</a></p>
<p>It was thought advisable to make some addition to our
force at Isle au Vache, as we should soon be in advance of
the troops on the Missouri, and might be exposed to insults
and depredations, from some of the numerous tribes of
Indians. Accordingly, on application to Colonel Morgan,
a boat and fifteen men, under the command of Lieutenant
Fields, were detailed for this duty, and directed to regulate
their movements agreeably to the orders of the commanding
officer of the exploring expedition.<a name="FNanchor_158" id="FNanchor_158"></a><a href="#Footnote_158" class="fnanchor">[146]</a> These men were<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_179" id="Page_179"></a>[pg179]</span>
furnished with provisions for sixty days, and having embarked
on board a keel-boat, called the General Smith,
they sailed in company with the Western Engineer. A
favourable wind springing up, we proceeded in the course
of the day about twenty-three miles, and encamped at
night near the entrance of a small stream, called Independence
Creek. A little above, and on the south side of
the river, is the site of an old Konza town, formerly called
the village of the Twenty-four.<a name="FNanchor_159" id="FNanchor_159"></a><a href="#Footnote_159" class="fnanchor">[147]</a> Above Cow Island the
Missouri is more serpentine in direction than below, and
the difficulties of the navigation we found by no means
diminished as we ascended. The bed of the river in many
places is broad, and the water distributed into small
channels separated by sand-bars. About fifty miles above
Cow Island we passed a spot that had lately been occupied
as a hunting camp by Captain Martin, who had been here
to procure the requisite provisions for the subsistence of
his party.</p>
<p>At the Yellow Banks we found the bluffs elevated about
one hundred and fifty feet above the surface of the valley.<a name="FNanchor_160" id="FNanchor_160"></a><a href="#Footnote_160" class="fnanchor">[148]</a>
Barometric observations, several times repeated, gave
nearly the same result at some points below. One hundred<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_180" id="Page_180"></a>[pg180]</span>
and fifty feet may, therefore, be assumed as the medium
depth of the immediate valley of the Missouri; its
aggregate width, for the {106} first five hundred miles above
the Mississippi, may be estimated at about three miles.
The corresponding appearances in the strata of the opposite
sides of this valley, as well as its entire form and character,
indicate it to have been formed by the river. But far
more than that vast body of soil and of rocky strata, which
formerly filled the space now occupied by the immediate
valley of the river, has been removed by the Missouri.
From the summit of the bluffs there is a sloping ascent
towards the interior of the country; and it is probable the
aggregate elevation of the great plains is not less than
three hundred feet above the surface of the river. If we
admit that this great valley, with its numerous ramifications,
has resulted from the operation of currents, wearing
down and transporting to the ocean the solid materials of
the earth's surface, it would appear necessary still farther
to acknowledge that this channel was once much deeper
than at present, for we usually meet with thick alluvial
depositions covering the rocks that line the bottom of the
Missouri valley. The manifest tendency of the operation
of the Mississippi, at this time, upon its valley, is to fill up
rather than to excavate; but it may be doubted whether
this is equally, or even to any degree, the case with the
Missouri. The aggregate mass of alluvion within the
valley of the Missouri is, undoubtedly, moving downwards,
with considerable rapidity; for the quantity of earthy matter
carried into the Mississippi is, at all times, very great.
In their descent the alluvial substances are alternately
deposited and swept away, as by the variations in the
direction of the current any particular point is, from time<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_181" id="Page_181"></a>[pg181]</span>
to time, either exposed to, or sheltered from, the action of
the stream.</p>
<p>About eighty-seven miles above Cow Island is the
mouth of the Nodowa, a river of some importance, being
about seventy yards wide, and navigable to some distance.
It is not usually seen in passing, being {107} concealed by
the island called the Great Nodowa, which is about five
miles long, and covered with heavy forests. The lands on
the Nodowa are of an excellent quality.<a name="FNanchor_161" id="FNanchor_161"></a><a href="#Footnote_161" class="fnanchor">[149]</a></p>
<p>On the 1st of September, we were under the necessity of
remaining encamped near the mouth of Wolf river,<a name="FNanchor_162" id="FNanchor_162"></a><a href="#Footnote_162" class="fnanchor">[150]</a> that
some repairs might be made to the steam engine. Here
we sent out some persons to hunt, who after a short time
returned, having taken a deer, a turkey, and three swarms
of bees, which afforded us about half a barrel of honey.
On the trees which margin the river, we frequently observed
a fine species of squirrel, which possesses all the
graceful activity of the common gray squirrel, as it leaps
from bough to bough.<a name="FNanchor_163" id="FNanchor_163"></a><a
href="#Footnote_163" class="fnanchor">[151]</a> After
our machinery was adjusted,<span class="xxpgn"><a
name="Page_182" id="Page_182"></a>[pg182]</span>
we resumed our ascent, and had proceeded a
short distance, when we were hailed from shore by Mr.
Dougherty, who had accompanied Mr. Say's party across
the country. We were not a little surprised at this unexpected
meeting, and were apprehensive some disaster
had befallen the detachment.</p>
<p>Mr. Dougherty being received on board, informed us
that Mr. Peale, Mr. Swift, Mr. Seymour, Chaboneau the
Indian interpreter,<a name="FNanchor_164" id="FNanchor_164"></a><a href="#Footnote_164" class="fnanchor">[152]</a> and one of the soldiers, were at a
little distance in the rear, having accompanied him across
the country, from Cow Island, where they had arrived five
days after our departure. Mr. Say and Mr. Jessup had
been left sick at Cow Island. We encamped immediately,
to give those who were near an opportunity of joining us.
It will now be necessary to return to the time of Mr. Say's<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_183" id="Page_183"></a>[pg183]</span>
departure from Fort Osage, and briefly to trace the progress
of his detachment to the place where a rencontre with a
war-party of Pawnees frustrated their design, and made it
necessary for them to rejoin the steam-boat.</p>
<p>Mr. Say's detachment, consisting of twelve men and a
boy, furnished with three pack-horses for the {108} transportation
of baggage, departed from Fort Osage on the
evening of August 6th. Their route lay westward across
the woodless plains about the sources of the Hay Cabin,
Blue Water, and Warreruza Creek. The cliffs along the
Blue Water are naked perpendicular rocks. In the vallies
numerous Indian encampments occurred, which
appeared not long since to have been occupied. These
were most frequently seen at the points, where the streams
making almost a complete circuit, and nearly enclosing
a small tract of ground, afforded an important protection
against the approach of an enemy. The prairies about
the head waters of the Warreruza abound in game.
Here ravens were first seen by the party, and numbers
of large banded rattlesnakes were killed. The blowing
flies swarmed in inconceivable numbers, attacking
not only the provision of the party, but depositing
their eggs upon the blankets, clothing, and even on the
furniture of the horses. On the 11th of August they
arrived at some elevated ridges, from which they overlooked
an extensive country, and could trace the whole
course of the Wahrengeho, or Full Creek, diverging
slightly from the Konzas, and could readily perceive timber
upon several of its head branches. The lands between the
head waters of Full Creek and the Konzas are not so good
as those about the sources of the Warreruza, and produce
less timber. The settlement of this region will be much retarded<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_184" id="Page_184"></a>[pg184]</span>
on account of the want of trees, these being confined
to the margins of the watercourses, while tracts of valuable
soil, of many miles in extent, have not a single tree or bush
upon them. The soil is, however, well adapted to the
culture of some of our most valuable forest trees. The
sugar-maple, and several of the most important species of
carya, the oaks, the tulip-tree, and the linden, would unquestionably
succeed.<a name="FNanchor_165" id="FNanchor_165"></a><a href="#Footnote_165" class="fnanchor">[153]</a></p>
<p>In consequence of the excessive heat of the weather, the
great fatigues of the party, and their constant {109} exposure
in the open plains, the health of several of them began
to be impaired. The high and coarse grasses, which now
covered the plains, greatly impeded their progress, and
very rapidly destroyed their clothing and mockasins. Their
journey was, therefore, slow and laborious. On the night
of the 13th they encamped on the bank of the Konzas,
having travelled some distance parallel to the course of<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_185" id="Page_185"></a>[pg185]</span>
that river. The next day several of the party, already
much debilitated, began to be afflicted with dysentery;
some accidents also occurred to retard their progress, and
on that and the following day they advanced only two
miles. On the 16th they marched about fifteen miles,
and encamped on the bank of the Konzas. Being now in
doubt as to the situation of the Konza village, and the illness
of some of the party continuing, they determined to
remain encamped, while some persons should be sent out
to reconnoitre the country, and discover, if possible,
whether that part of the river at which they had arrived,
was above or below the village they designed to visit.<a name="FNanchor_166" id="FNanchor_166"></a><a href="#Footnote_166" class="fnanchor">[154]</a>
The Konzas river, in this part, bears the closest resemblance
to the Missouri, both in the turbulence and rapidity
of its current, and the aspect of the country along its banks;
it is, however, so shoal as at almost any point to admit of
being forded without difficulty.</p>
<p>Willow islands, moving sand-bars, and <i>falling-in</i> banks,
are as frequent as in the Missouri. The line of forest
which skirts the banks, including the bed of the river, is
about half a mile wide, but not entirely uninterrupted.<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_186" id="Page_186"></a>[pg186]</span>
The course of the river is remarkably serpentine, forming
woodland points alternately on both sides.</p>
<p>After crossing and recrossing the river, and extending
their search in every direction, they had the satisfaction at
last to fall in with a beaten path leading up the river, and
which their guide and interpreter was confident would
conduct them to the Konza village.</p>
<p>{110} On the morning of the 19th, they passed across a
wide and fertile prairie to the Vermillion, a stream which
enters the Konzas from the north-west. It is four feet
deep, and about twenty yards wide.<a name="FNanchor_167" id="FNanchor_167"></a><a href="#Footnote_167" class="fnanchor">[155]</a> Here they halted
in the middle of the day, and dined on the flesh of a black
wolf, the only game they were able to procure.</p>
<p>About Vermillion Creek are some open forests of oak,
not extending far on either side. The trees are from fifteen
to twenty-five feet high, and from one foot to eighteen
inches in diameter, standing at a considerable distance
from each other.</p>
<p>On the day following, the Konza village was descried at
a distance. The detachment immediately halted to arrange
their dress, and inspect their firearms. This was
thought the more necessary, as no party of whites had
visited the village since a number of the Konzas had received
a whipping at Isle au Vache, and it was a matter of
doubt, whether the party would meet a friendly reception.</p>
<p>As they approached the village, they perceived the tops
of the lodges red with the crowds of natives; the chiefs and
warriors came rushing out on horseback, painted and
decorated, and followed by great numbers on foot. Mr.<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_187" id="Page_187"></a>[pg187]</span>
Say and his party were received with the utmost cordiality,
and conducted into the village by the chiefs, who went before
and on each side, to protect them from the encroachments
of the crowd. On entering the village the crowd
readily gave way before the party, but followed them into
the lodge assigned to them, and completely and most
densely filled the spacious apartment, with the exception
only of a small space opposite to the entrance, where the
party seated themselves on the beds, still protected from
the pressure of the crowd by the chiefs, who took their seats
on the ground immediately before them. After the ceremony
of smoking with the latter, the object which the party
had in view in passing through their territories was explained
to them, and {111} seemed to be perfectly satisfactory.
At the lodge of the principal chief they were regaled
with jerked bison meat and boiled corn, and were afterwards
invited to six feasts in immediate succession. Chaboneau
and the old Frenchman, who had been despatched
from Fort Osage, to summon the Konzas to meet the agent
at Isle au Vache, had arrived some days previous; but the
nation being at that time absent on a hunting excursion,
the interpreters, after reaching the village, had proceeded
immediately into the plains in pursuit of them. At the
time of the arrival of our detachment, the village was in
confusion, the hunters having lately returned, and being
then engaged in preparations for the journey to Isle au
Vache. Two runners were despatched to give notice to
Major O'Fallon, that his summons had been received;
and at the same time the chiefs and principal warriors departed
for the place appointed. Before his departure, the
principal chief was careful to appoint a fit person to attend
Mr. Say's party, and arrangements were made to promote<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_188" id="Page_188"></a>[pg188]</span>
their comfort and convenience, while they should remain
at the village.</p>
<p>Many reports had been circulated among the Konzas
respecting the invitation to council their chiefs had received.
They were conscious of having recently offended,
by firing on Major O'Fallon, and by insulting and plundering
several soldiers of Captain Martin's command. For
these offences they had been in some measure punished at
the time, Major O'Fallon having returned their fire from
his boat, and not entirely without effect, as was supposed;
several also had been flogged by the orders of Captain
Martin; yet they did not consider themselves secure from
the vengeance of the whites. Many believed that at the
time of the anticipated council, barrels of gunpowder were
to be placed in the earth to destroy them at once. The two
runners, who had been despatched, quarrelled before they
had gone far; one saying, all {112} the things that had been
told them by the interpreters were lies, for which assertion
he was struck to the ground by his companion. In this
situation they were found by the advancing chiefs.
Finally, a dispute happened between the chiefs themselves
respecting rank, in consequence of which ten or twelve of
them returned to the village.</p>
<p>Mr. Say, who spent some time among the Konzas, gives,
in his notes, the following account of that nation:</p>
<div class="blockquot">
<p>"The approach to the village is over a fine level prairie
of considerable extent; passing which, you ascend an abrupt
bank of the height of ten feet to a second level, on which the
village is situate in the distance, within about one-fourth of
a mile of the river. It consists of about a hundred and
twenty lodges, placed as closely together as convenient, and
destitute of any regularity of arrangement. The ground<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_189" id="Page_189"></a>[pg189]</span>
area of each lodge is circular, and is excavated to the depth
of from one to three feet, and the general form of the exterior
may be denominated hemispheric.</p>
<p>"The lodge in which we reside is larger than any other
in the town, and being that of a grand chief, it serves as a
council-house for the nation. The roof is supported by
two series of pillars, or rough vertical posts, forked at top
for the reception of the transverse connecting pieces of each
series; twelve of these pillars form the outer series, placed
in a circle; and eight longer ones the inner series, also
describing a circle; the outer wall, of rude frame-work,
placed at a proper distance from the exterior series of pillars,
is five or six feet high. Poles, as thick as the leg at
base, rest with their butts upon the wall, extending on the
cross-pieces, which are upheld by the pillars of the two
series, and are of sufficient length to reach nearly to the
summit. These poles are very numerous, and, agreeably
to the position which we have indicated, they are placed all
round in a radiating {113} manner, and support the roof
like rafters. Across these are laid long and slender sticks
or twigs, attached parallel to each other by means of bark
cord; these are covered by mats made of long grass, or
reeds, or with the bark of trees; the whole is then covered
completely over with earth, which, near the ground, is
banked up to the eaves. A hole is permitted to remain in
the middle of the roof to give exit to the smoke. Around
the walls of the interior, a continuous series of mats are
suspended; these are of neat workmanship, composed of
a soft reed united by bark cord, in straight or undulated
lines, between which lines of black paint sometimes occur.
The bedsteads are elevated to the height of a common seat
from the ground, and are about six feet wide; they extend<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_190" id="Page_190"></a>[pg190]</span>
in an uninterrupted line around three-fourths of the circumference
of the apartment, and are formed in the
simplest manner of numerous sticks, or slender pieces of
wood resting at their ends on cross pieces, which are supported
by short notched or forked posts, driven into the
ground; bison-skins supply them with a comfortable bedding.
Several medicine or mystic bags are carefully attached
to the mats of the wall; these are cylindrical, and
neatly bound up; several reeds are usually placed upon
them, and a human scalp serves for their fringe and tassels.
Of their contents we know nothing.</p>
<p>"The fire-place is a simple shallow cavity, in the centre
of the apartment, with an upright and a projecting arm for
the support of the culinary apparatus. The latter is very
simple in kind, and limited in quantity, consisting of a
brass kettle, an iron pot, and wooden bowls and spoons;
each person, male as well as female, carries a large knife in
the girdle of the breech cloth behind, which is used at their
meals, and sometimes for self-defence. During our stay
with these Indians they ate four or five times each day,
invariably supplying us with the best pieces, or choice
{114} parts, before they attempted to taste the food themselves.</p>
<p>"They commonly placed before us a sort of soup, composed
of maize of the present season, of that description
which, having undergone a certain preparation, is appropriately
named sweet corn, boiled in water, and enriched
with a few slices of bison meat, grease, and some beans,
and to suit it to our palates, it was generally seasoned with
rock salt, which is procured near the Arkansa river.</p>
<p>"This mixture constituted an agreeable food; it was
served up to us in large wooden bowls, which were placed<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_191" id="Page_191"></a>[pg191]</span>
on bison robes or mats, on the ground; as many of us as
could conveniently eat from one bowl sat round it, each
in as easy a position as he could contrive, and in common
we partook of its contents by means of large spoons made
of bison horn. We were sometimes supplied with uncooked
dried meat of the bison, also a very agreeable food,
and to our taste and reminiscence, far preferable to the
flesh of the domestic ox. Another very acceptable dish
was called <i>leyed corn</i>; this is maize of the preceding season
<i>shelled</i> from the cob, and first boiled for a short time in a
ley of wood-ashes until the hard skin, which invests the
grains, is separated from them; the whole is then poured
into a basket, which is repeatedly dipped into clean water,
until the ley and skins are removed; the remainder is then
boiled in water until so soft as to be edible. They also
make much use of maize roasted on the cob, of boiled
pumpkins, of musk-melons, and water-melons, but the
latter are generally pulled from the vine before they are
completely ripe.</p>
<p>"Ca-ega-wa-tan-ninga, or the Fool Chief, is the hereditary
principal chief, but he possesses nothing like monarchical
authority, maintaining his distinction only by his
bravery and good conduct. There are ten or twelve inferior
chieftains, or persons who aspire to such dignity, but
these do not appear to {115} command any great respect
from the people. Civil as well as military distinction arises
from bravery or generosity. Controversies are decided
amongst themselves; they do not appeal to their chief, excepting
for counsel. They will not marry any of their kindred,
however remote. The females, before marriage,
labour in the fields, and serve their parents, carry wood and
water, and attend to the culinary duties; when the eldest<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_192" id="Page_192"></a>[pg192]</span>
daughter marries, she commands the lodge, the mother, and
all the sisters; the latter are to be also the wives of the same
individual. When a young man wishes to marry a particular
female, his father gives a feast to a few persons, generally
old men, and acquaints them with his design; they repair
to the girl, who generally feigns an unwillingness to marry,
and urges such reasons as her poverty, youth, &c.—the
old men are often obliged to return six or seven times before
they can effect their object. When her consent is obtained,
the parents of the young man take two or three
blankets and some meat to the parents of the female that
they may feast, and immediately return to their lodge.
The parents put on the meat to cook, and place the same
quantity of meat and merchandize on two horses, and dress
their daughter in the best garments they can afford; she
mounts one of the horses, and leads the other, and is preceded
by a crier announcing, with a loud voice, the marriage
of the young couple, naming them, to the people; in
this way she goes to the habitation of her husband, whose
parents take from her every thing she brings, strip her entirely
naked, dress her again in clothes as good as she
brought, furnish her with two other horses, with meat and
merchandize, and she returns with her crier to her parents.
These two horses she retains as her own, together with all
the articles she brings back with her. Her parents then
make a feast, to which they invite the husband, his parents
and friends; the young couple are seated together, and {116}
all then partake of the good cheer, after which the father of
the girl makes a harangue, in which he informs the young
man that he must now assume the command of the lodge,
and of every thing belonging to him and his daughter. All
the merchandize which the bride returned with, is distributed<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_193" id="Page_193"></a>[pg193]</span>
in presents from herself to the kindred of her husband
in their first visit. The husband then invites the
relatives of his wife to a feast. Whatever peltries the
father possesses are at the disposal of the son to trade with
on his own account; and in every respect the parents, in
many instances, become subservient to the young man.</p>
<p>"After the death of the husband the widow scarifies
herself, rubs her person with clay, and becomes negligent
of her dress, until the expiration of a year, when the eldest
brother of the deceased takes her to wife without any
ceremony, considers her children as his own, and takes
her and them to his house; if the deceased left no brother,
she marries whom she pleases. They have, in some instances,
four or five wives; but these are mostly sisters; if
they marry into two families the wives do not harmonize
well together, and give the husband much inquietude;
there is, however, no restriction in this respect, except in
the prudence of the husband. The grandfather and
grandmother are very fond of their grandchildren, but
these have very little respect for them. The female children
respect and obey their parents; but the males are very
disobedient, and the more obstinate they are, and the less
readily they comply with the commands of their parents,
the more the latter seem to be pleased, saying, 'He will
be a brave man, a great warrior; he will not be controlled.'</p>
<p>"The attachment of fraternity is as strong, if not
stronger, than with us. The niece has great deference
for the uncle. The female calls her mother's sister <i>mother</i>,
and her mother's brother <i>uncle</i>. The male calls his
father's brother <i>father</i>, his father's sister [106] <i>aunt</i>, his
mother's sister <i>mother</i>, and his mother's brother <i>uncle</i>.<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_194" id="Page_194"></a>[pg194]</span>
Thirteen children have occurred in one family. A woman
had three children at a birth; all lived.</p>
<p>"The young men are generally coupled out as friends;
the tie is very permanent, and continues often throughout
life.</p>
<p>"They bear sickness and pain with great fortitude, seldom
uttering a complaint; bystanders sympathize with
them, and try every means to relieve them. Insanity is
unknown; the blind are taken care of by their friends and
the nation generally, and are well dressed and fed. Drunkenness
is rare, and is much ridiculed; a drunken man is
said to be bereft of his reason, and is avoided. As to the
origin of the nation, their belief is, that the Master of life
formed a man, and placed him on the earth; he was solitary,
and cried to the Master of life for a companion, who
sent him down a woman; from the union of these two proceeded
a son and daughter, who were married, and built
themselves a lodge distinct from that of their parents; all
the nations proceeded from them, excepting the whites,
whose origin they pretend not to know. When a man is
killed in battle, the thunder is supposed to take him up,
they do not know where. In going to battle each man
traces an imaginary figure of the thunder on the soil;
and he who represents it incorrectly is killed by the
thunder. A person saw this thunder one day on the
ground, with a beautiful mockasin on each side of it;
having much need of a pair, he took them and went
his way; but on his return, by the same spot, the
thunder took him off, and he has not been since heard of.
They seem to have vague notions of the future state.
They think that a brave warrior, or good hunter, will
walk in a good path; but a bad man, or coward, will find a<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_195" id="Page_195"></a>[pg195]</span>
bad path. Thinking the deceased has far to travel, they
bury with his body mockasins, some articles of food, &c.
{118} to support him on the journey. Many persons, they
believe, have become reanimated, who had been, during
their apparent death, in strange villages; but as the inhabitants
used them ill, they returned. They say they have
never seen the Master of life, and therefore cannot pretend
to personify him; but they have often heard him speak
in the thunder; they wear often a shell which is in honour,
or in representation of him, but they do not pretend that
it resembles him, or has any thing in common with his
form, organization, or dimensions.</p>
<p>"This nation having been at profound peace with the
Osages, since the year 1806,<a name="FNanchor_168" id="FNanchor_168"></a><a href="#Footnote_168" class="fnanchor">[156]</a> have intermarried freely
with them, so that in stature, features, and customs, they
are more and more closely approaching that people.
They are large and symmetrically well formed, with the
usual high cheek bones, the nose more or less aquiline,
colour reddish coppery, the hair black and straight.
Their women are small and homely, with broad faces.
We saw but a single squaw in the village who had any pretensions
to beauty; she was recently married to an enterprizing
warrior, who invited us to a feast, apparently in
order to exhibit his prize to us. The ordinary dress of
the men is a breech cloth of blue or red cloth, secured in
its place by a girdle; a pair of leggings, made of dressed
deer-skin, concealing the leg, excepting a small portion of
the upper part of the thigh; a pair of mockasins made of<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_196" id="Page_196"></a>[pg196]</span>
dressed deer, elk, or bison-skin, not ornamented; and a
blanket to cover the upper part of the body, often thrown
over one arm in hot weather, leaving that part naked; or
it is even entirely thrown aside. The outer cartilage of
the ear is cut through in three places, and upon the rims,
thus separated, various ornaments are suspended, such as
wampum, string beads, silver or tin trinkets, &c. The
hair of most of their chiefs and warriors is scrupulously
removed from the head; being careful, however, to leave
enough, as in honour {119} they are bound to do, to supply
their enemy with a scalp, in case they should be vanquished.
This residuum consists of a portion on the back
of the head, of about the breadth of the hand, rounded at
its upper termination near the top of the head, the sides
rectilinear, and nearly parallel, though slightly approaching
each other towards the origin of the neck, where it
abruptly terminates; on the exterior margin, the hair is
somewhat longer and erect; this strip of hair is variously
decorated; it is sometimes coloured on the margin with
vermilion, sometimes a tail feather of the war eagle is
attached transversely with respect to the head; this feather
is white at base, and black at tip; but the principal ornament,
which appears to be worn by some of their chief
warriors, and which is, at the same time, by far the most
handsome, is the tail of the common deer; this is attached
by the base near to the top of the patch of hair, the back
of it resting on the hair, and the tip secured near the termination
of the patch; the bristly hair of the tail is dyed
red by a beautiful permanent colour, and parted longitudinally
in the middle by a broad silver plate, which is
attached at top, and suffered to hang loose. Many of
them are tattooed on different parts of the body. The<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_197" id="Page_197"></a>[pg197]</span>
young boys are entirely naked, with the exception of a
girdle, generally of cloth, round their protruding abdomen.
This part of the body in the children of this nation
is remarkably prominent; it is more particularly so when
they are very young, but gradually subsides as they advance
in age. In hot weather the men, whilst in the village,
generally use fans, with which they cool themselves,
when in the shade, and protect their heads from the sun
whilst walking out; they are made of the wing or tail of the
turkey. The women rarely use them. The dress of the
female is composed of a pair of mockasins, leggings of
blue or red cloth, with a broad projecting border on the
outside, and covering the leg to the knee, or a {120} little
above; many, however, and perhaps almost a majority of
them, do not in common wear this part of the dress.
Around the waist, secured by a belt or cestus, is wrapped
a piece of blue cloth, the sides of which meet, or come
nearly in contact on the outside of the right thigh, and the
whole extends downward as far as the knee, or to the mid-leg;
around the left shoulder is a similar piece of cloth,
which is attached, by two of the corners, at the axilla of the
right arm, and extends downward as far as the waist.
This garment is often laid aside, when the body, from the
waist upward, is entirely exposed. Their hair is suffered
to grow long; it is parted longitudinally on the top of the
head, and flows over the shoulders, the line of separation
being coloured with vermilion. The females, like those
of other aborigines, cultivate the maize, beans, pumpkins,
and water-melons; gather and prepare the two former,
when ripe, and pack them away in skins, or in mats, for
keeping; prepare the flesh of the bison, by drying, for
preservation; attend to all the cooking; bring wood and<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_198" id="Page_198"></a>[pg198]</span>
water; and in other respects manage the domestic concerns,
and appear to have over them absolute sway. These
duties, as far as we could observe, they not only willingly
performed as a mere matter of duty, but they exhibited in
their deportment a degree of pride and ambition to acquit
themselves well; in this respect resembling a good housewife
amongst the civilized fair. Many of them are tattooed.</p>
<p>"Both sexes of all ages bathe frequently, and enter the
water indiscriminately. The infant is washed in cold
water soon after its birth, and the ablution is frequently
repeated; the mother also bathes with the same fluid soon
after delivery. The infant is tied down to a board, after
the manner of many of the Indian tribes.</p>
<p>"The chastity of the young females is guarded by the
mother with the most scrupulous watchfulness, {121} and
a violation of it is a rare occurrence, as it renders the individual
unfit for the wife of a chief, a brave warrior, or
good hunter. To wed her daughter to one of these, each
mother is solicitous; as these qualifications offer the same
attractions to the Indian mother as family and fortune
exhibit to the civilized parent.</p>
<p>"The men carefully pluck from their chins, axilla of the arms,
eye-brows, &c. every hair of beard that presents itself: this
is done with a spiral wire, which, when used, is placed with the
side upon the part, and the ends are pressed towards each other
so as to close the spires upon the hairs, which can then be
readily drawn out; this instrument we observed to be an article
of dress of the chiefs, who departed to attend the council at
the Isle au Vache." <span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_199"
id="Page_199"></a>[pg199]</span></p>
</div> <!--end blockquot-->
<h2 title="Chapter VII"><a name="Chapter_VII" id="Chapter_VII"></a>
<span class="smaller">{122}</span> CHAPTER VII</h2>
<p class="chaphead">Further Account of the Konza Nation—Robbery of Mr.
Say's Detachment by a War-Party of Pawnees—Arrival
at the Platte.</p>
<p class="toclink"><a href="#CONTENTS_OF_VOLUME_XIV">toc</a></p>
<p>The Konza warriors, like those of some others of the
Missouri tribes on their departure on a war excursion,
sometimes make vows, binding themselves never to return
until they have performed some feat which they mention,
such as killing an enemy, striking an enemy's dead body,
or stealing a horse. An instance lately occurred of a warrior
who had been long absent under a vow of this sort,
and finding it impossible to meet an enemy, and being in
a starving condition, he returned to his own village by
night, with the determination of accomplishing his vow,
by killing and scalping the first person he should meet.
This person happened to be the warrior's own mother, but
the darkness of the night prevented the discovery until he
had accomplished his bloody purpose.</p>
<p>On the 23d of August, Mr. Say's party began to prepare
for leaving the Konza village, where they had been treated
with much hospitality. They purchased a number of
articles for their use on the journey they proposed to take,
such as jerked bison meat, pounded maize, bison fat put
up like sausages, mockasins, leggings, spoons made of the
horn of the bison, two large wooden dishes, &c. They
received also an addition to their cavalcade of two horses,
one belonging to Major O'Fallon, and another which they
procured from a Frenchman residing in the village.</p>
<p>A Pawnee prisoner, an interesting young man, {123}
was brought to them, who said he was desirous to accompany
them to his nation, but at the same time was afraid<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_200" id="Page_200"></a>[pg200]</span>
his people would not recognize him, and would kill him
for a Konza. He was promised protection, but at the
same time it was remarked to him, that if he should
attempt to steal the horses of the party on the way, they
would certainly pursue him and take his scalp.</p>
<p>On the 24th, says Mr. Say, having been detained until
afternoon in searching for our horses, we departed, accompanied
by several Indians, who intended to pass the
night with us and to return to the village the following
morning.</p>
<p>Our path led along the margin of Blue Earth Creek,
a stream of the width of twenty-five yards, and greatest
depth of three feet, which discharges into the river a mile
or two above the Konza village. The soil supports but
a thin growth of grass, and the timber is far from abundant,
consisting principally of different sorts of oak, confined
to the margin of the creek, its ravines and tributaries.
One of our Indian followers, who, although a chief of the
extinct Missouri nation,<a name="FNanchor_169"
id="FNanchor_169"></a><a href="#Footnote_169"
class="fnanchor">[157]</a> has yet much influence with the
Konzas, wished to exchange a horse he had with him for
one of ours, which was evidently a less valuable animal.
The reason he assigned in explanation of his desire of such
an apparently disadvantageous exchange was, that his
horse had been presented to him by a person, who, he
feared, intended to reclaim him, but that if he should
exchange him for another horse, he would be secure in the
possession of the individual so obtained, as an Indian will
not reclaim a present which is not identically the same he
had given. At the distance of seven miles from the village,
our party encamped by the side of the creek, in a<span
class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_203" id="Page_203"></a>[pg203]</span>
narrow, but beautiful and level prairie bottom, which was
bounded by an abrupt, though verdant range of bluffs.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
<a id="Indian_Record_of_a_Battle"></a> <img src="images/i202.png"
width="600" height="403" alt="" /> <div class="caption">Indian
Record of a Battle between the Pawnees and the Konzas--A
Fac-simile of a Delineation upon a Bison Robe. <span
class="los"><a href="#ILLUSTRATIONS_TO_VOLUME_XIV">go to List of
Illustrations</a></span>
</div></div>
<p>Mr. Dougherty and one of the Indians went in {124}
quest of game, and having supplied the two remaining
Indians with a pipe and tobacco, we were partaking of
some refreshment, when one of the party suddenly drew
our attention to an extensive cloud of dust, which arose
from the plain, and which we soon perceived but partially
concealed a body of Indians, who had already approached
within a quarter of a mile, and were now running with
great swiftness. Our Indian followers now displayed all
their activity; the chief seized his gun, and ran towards
the advancing multitude to obtain his horse, which he
mounted and rode off at full speed, whilst his companion
disappeared in the bushes in an instant. This was a
sufficient intimation that a hostile party was before us, and
a timely admonition of the approach of danger. Our men
were therefore drawn up in a line, and all prepared themselves
for defence in case of extremity.</p>
<p>The advancing party were armed, decorated, and
painted, for battle, but they manifested, as they rushed
up to us, the most pacific deportment, shaking us by the
hand, putting their arms about our necks, and raising their
hands with the palm towards us, in token of peace. We
were not, however, disposed to rely upon these assurances
of friendship, being fully aware of the difficulties which
their partizans would have to surmount in checking the
inconsiderate prowess of the younger warriors. We now
observed some of them seizing our horses, which were
staked at some distance: they mounted them and rode
swiftly in the direction that the chief had taken, but they
soon returned. It soon became necessary to protect our<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_204" id="Page_204"></a>[pg204]</span>
baggage by arranging ourselves around it; still, however,
in despite of our vigilance, many of our small articles were
stolen. They begged for whiskey and tobacco; and a
small portion of the latter was given them. Amidst the
confusion arising from the incessant and rapid movements
of the Indians, we observed an individual bearing off a
small {125} package of very fine pounded meat; I immediately
pointed out the circumstance to the partizan, and
directed him to recover it and punish the thief; he complied
by wresting the meat from the grasp of the latter,
and from that of several others who had been contending
for portions of it, placed it beneath his feet, and defended
it with his lance; but Chabonneau, to whom the meat belonged,
declaring that he had given it to them, they were
permitted to retain it. A tent which had been pitched for
me in consideration of my illness, and in which my blanket,
pistols, together with some small articles, had been deposited,
was plundered of its contents; it was finally cut down,
and would have been taken away, had we not made an
effort to preserve it. During the whole transaction those
warriors, who stood at a short distance, intently watched
our movements, as if they were led to believe, from the
attitude we assumed, that we would attempt to repel them,
even with our inadequate force. No sudden action or
motion of any one of the party escaped them; and individuals
were frequently observed to draw their arrows to
test the elasticity of the bows. At a critical juncture, a
tall and graceful Indian cocked his gun fiercely, and put
his war whistle to his mouth, but the signal was not blown.
Amongst numerous incidents that occurred during the half
hour that we were surrounded by them, an individual
attempted to seize a knapsack belonging to one of the<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_205" id="Page_205"></a>[pg205]</span>
soldiers, and immediately under his observation; the latter
placed his foot upon the knapsack to detain it, and at the
same time prepared his gun as if to shoot the offender, who
leaped backward with great agility, and with an ejaculation
of pleasure, drew his arrow to the head. The whole
party precipitately retreated just as Mr. Dougherty returned
from hunting; being briefly informed of the nature
of their visit, he called aloud to the fugitives in their own
language, but they passed on without heeding him, taking
our {126} horses with them. I had by a rough estimate
fixed their number at one hundred and forty; they
were chiefly armed with the bow and arrow, and lance,
with the usual accompaniments of tomahawks, war-clubs,
and knives, together with a few guns. Fortunately no
personal indignity was offered us; yet we could not repress
a sensation of much mortification at the prospect of a frustration
of our enterprise, which now seemed inevitable, and
of extreme vexation at the irreparable loss of our horses,
which no exertions of ours could have saved: an appeal to
arms, except in the last extremity, would have been the
height of imprudence, conquest being hopeless, and escape
almost impossible.</p>
<p>Soon after their departure Mr. Jessup and Chabonneau
set out for the village to procure assistance, for the purpose
of removing our camp to that place from which we
recommenced our journey at a moment so unpropitious;
whilst we busied ourselves in removing the baggage to a
situation amongst the neighbouring bushes, which appeared
favourable for concealment, and for defence, in
case of a night attack, which was confidently anticipated.
Several alarms occurred during the night, and on the
return of day we observed thirty mounted Indians riding<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_206" id="Page_206"></a>[pg206]</span>
swiftly towards us. The chief, who left us so precipitately
the preceding evening, on his arrival at the village,
hastily assembled a little band of warriors for the purpose
of returning immediately to our assistance, and it was he
and his party, that we had now the pleasure to greet.
They expressed great satisfaction, when they learned that
we were all uninjured. After saluting us cordially, they
pursued the trail of the Pawnees for some distance, and
from the footsteps in the grass, and other appearances, to
be duly appreciated only by the eye of an Indian, they estimated
the number of the Pawnees at one hundred and
thirty. On their return they restored to us some bacon and
other articles, which had been {127} carried off by the
fugitives, and rejected as not at all to their taste. We
were now supplied with a conveyance for ourselves and
our baggage, and were conducted back to the village.</p>
<p>The Indians who committed this robbery, were a war-party
of the republican Pawnees, and were about one hundred
and forty in number. Their nation was at war with
the Konzas.</p>
<p>Mr. Say's party were kindly received at the village they
had left on the preceding day. In the evening they had
retired to rest in the lodge set apart for their accommodation,
when they were alarmed by a party of savages rushing
in, armed with bows, arrows, and lances, shouting and
yelling in a most frightful manner. The gentlemen of the
party had immediate recourse to their arms; but observing
that some squaws, who were in the lodge, appeared unmoved,
they began to suspect that no molestation to them
was intended. The Indians collected around the fire in
the centre of the lodge, yelling incessantly; at length their
howlings assumed something of a measured tone, and they<span
class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_209" id="Page_209"></a>[pg209]</span>
began to accompany their voices with a sort of drum and
rattles. After singing for some time, one who appeared
to be their leader, struck the post over the fire with his
lance, and they all began to dance, keeping very exact
time with the music. Each warrior had, besides his arms,
and rattles made of strings of deer's hoofs, some part of
the intestines of an animal inflated, and enclosing a few
small stones, which produced a sound like pebbles in a
gourd shell. After dancing round the fire for some time,
without appearing to notice the strangers, they departed,
raising the same wolfish howl, with which they had entered;
but their music and their yelling continued to be
heard about the village during the night.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
<a id="War_Dance_in_the_interior"></a> <img src="images/i208.png"
width="600" height="351" alt="" /> <div class="caption">War
Dance in the interior of a Konza Lodge <span class="los"><a
href="#ILLUSTRATIONS_TO_VOLUME_XIV">go to List of
Illustrations</a></span></div>
</div>
<p>This ceremony, called the <i>dog dance</i>, was performed by
the Konzas for the entertainment of their guests. Mr.
Seymour took an opportunity to sketch {128} the attitudes
and dresses of the principal figures.<a name="FNanchor_170" id="FNanchor_170"></a><a href="#Footnote_170" class="fnanchor">[158]</a></p>
<p>Finding it impracticable to obtain horses by purchase,
out of their almost exhausted stock of merchandize, to
enable them to prosecute their march to Council Bluff,
after due deliberation, they saw no alternative, but to endeavour
to hire horses on credit, and to make the best of
their way for Cow Island, in hopes of meeting the steamboat
there. A Frenchman, Mr. Gunville, resident with
this nation, agreed to furnish two pack horses, and a saddle
horse for Mr. Say, whose state of health would not admit
of his continuing the journey on foot. Thus furnished
they prepared to depart, and in the meantime two runners
were despatched to inform Major Long of their situation
by letter. <span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_210"
id="Page_210"></a>[pg210]</span></p>
<p>On the 25th of August, Mr. Say and his party again left
the Konza village, accompanied by the French trader,
who had furnished them two horses, and by a Missouri
Indian; but this last had followed them only a few miles,
when he repented of his undertaking and returned.</p>
<p>In pursuing the most direct route from the Konza village
to the Missouri, they crossed at the distance of seventeen
miles, the Vermilion, a small stream bordered with
handsome forests. Nineteen miles beyond this they arrived
at the sources of Grasshopper Creek, where they encamped
on the evening of the 27th.<a name="FNanchor_171" id="FNanchor_171"></a><a href="#Footnote_171" class="fnanchor">[159]</a> Here the soil
changes somewhat abruptly. The high prairies about
the Vermilion and Blue Earth creeks are barren, almost
naked, and inhabited by some orbicular lizards. About
Grasshopper Creek the soil is fertile, the grass dense and
luxuriant.</p>
<p>On the 29th they arrived at Isle au Vache, and were
hospitably received by Colonel Morgan and the officers of
his command, but had the mortification to learn that
Major Long, after waiting a sufficient time to enable the
Indian agent to complete his negotiations {129} with the
Konzas, had departed with the steam-boat before the
arrival of the messengers, that had been sent to notify him
of their disaster. These runners had been despatched
immediately after their arrival, with instructions to overtake
the steam-boat, and to deliver Mr. Say's letter, but<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_211" id="Page_211"></a>[pg211]</span>
after some days they returned, without having been able
to effect any thing.</p>
<p>It was now determined that Mr. Say and Mr. Jessup,
who on account of ill health, were unable to travel farther
on foot, should for the present remain at Isle au Vache,
while the other gentlemen of the detachment should continue
their journey. Mr. Dougherty, from his intimate
acquaintance with the country, was of opinion that by
crossing in the nearest direction from Isle au Vache to the
mouth of Wolf river, they might yet overtake the steam-boat.
They accordingly placed themselves under his
guidance, and, by great exertion, fortunately arrived at
the mouth of Wolf river, on the evening of the 1st of September,
as the steam-boat was passing.</p>
<p>The country south-west of the Missouri, between the
Konzas and the Platte, is drained principally by Wolf
river and the Great Nemahaw. These rivers, like the
Nodowa and Nishnebottona, which enter the Missouri
nearly opposite them from the north-east, rise in the prairies
at an elevation probably of forty or fifty feet above the
level of the Missouri. As they descend, their vallies becoming
gradually wider, embosom a few trees, and at
length, near their entrance into the Missouri valley, are
forests of considerable extent. The surface of these prairies
presents a constant succession of small rounded hills,
becoming larger and more abrupt as you approach the
beds of the rivers. The soil is deep, reposing usually on
horizontal beds of argillaceous sandstone, and secondary
limestone. In all the limestones along the Missouri, we
observe a tendency to crystalline structure, and they have
often a reddish or yellowish white {130} colour. There is,<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_212" id="Page_212"></a>[pg212]</span>
however, always something in the arrangement and in the
aspect of the crystals to distinguish these sparry varieties
from the primitive granular limestone, to which they have
something of general resemblance. The horizontal disposition
of the strata of this limestone, the great numbers of
organic relics contained in it, and its intimate connexion
with coal strata, indicate with sufficient clearness its relation
to the secondary rocks. No person who shall examine
this stratum with the least attention, either about the
Nemahaw and the Konzas, or in the mining district at the
sources of the Gasconade, the Merameg, and the St. Francis,
will for a moment mistake it for any of those varieties
of transition or primitive limestone, which it in some respects
so closely resembles. The crystalline varieties, no
less than the compact blue limestones, embrace numerous
masses of chert or hornstone. This occurs of various colours,
and these are arranged in spots or stripes. Some
specimens have several distinct colours arranged in zigzag
lines, somewhat resembling the fortification agate. The
hunters use fragments of this stone for gun-flints; the savages
also formerly employed it in the manufacture of arrow
points and other implements.<a name="FNanchor_172" id="FNanchor_172"></a><a href="#Footnote_172" class="fnanchor">[160]</a></p>
<p>The soil superimposed upon these strata of limestone,
is a calcareous loam. Near the rivers it is intermixed with
sand; this is also the case with the soil of the high prairies
about the Konzas village. In ascending the Konzas river,
one hundred, or one hundred and twenty miles from the
Missouri, you discover numerous indications, both in the
soil, and its animal and vegetable productions, of an
approach to the borders of that great Sandy Desert, which
stretches eastward from the base of the Rocky Mountains.<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_213" id="Page_213"></a>[pg213]</span>
You meet there with the orbicular lizard, or "horned frog,"
an inhabitant of the arid plains of {131} New Mexico.
You distinguish also some cacti, as well as many of those
plants allied to chenopodium and salsola, which delight in
a thirsty muriatiferous soil. The catalogue of the forest
trees belonging to the vallies of this region is not very
copious. The cotton-wood and the plane tree, every
where form conspicuous features of the forests. With
these are intermixed the tall and graceful acacia, the honey
locust, and the bonduc, or coffee-tree,<a name="FNanchor_173" id="FNanchor_173"></a><a href="#Footnote_173" class="fnanchor">[161]</a> and several species
of juglans, carya and fraxinus, with pinnated or many-parted
leaves. Trees of the family of the coniferæ are not
of frequent occurrence on the Missouri. About the summits
of rocky cliffs are here and there a few cedars or junipers,
the only trees that retain their verdure during the
winter.</p>
<p>The prairies, for many miles on each side of the Missouri,
produce abundance of good pasturage; but as far as our
observation has extended, the best soil is a margin from
ten to twelve miles in breadth, along the western bank of
the river. In the summer very little water is to be found
in the prairies, all the smaller streams failing, even though
the season be not unusually dry. On account of the want
of wood and of water, the settlements will be for a long
time confined to the immediate vallies of the Missouri, the
Konzas, and the larger rivers; but it is probable, forests
will hereafter be cultivated in those vast woodless regions,<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_214" id="Page_214"></a>[pg214]</span>
which now form so great a proportion of the country; and
wells may be made to supply the deficiency of running water.</p>
<p>We have seen at Bellefontain, as well as at several
other points on this river, a pretty species of sparrow,
which is altogether new to us;<a name="FNanchor_174"
id="FNanchor_174"></a><a href="#Footnote_174"
class="fnanchor">[162]</a> and several specimens of a serpent
have occurred, which has considerable affinity with the
pine-snake of the southern states, or bull-snake of Bartram.<a
name="FNanchor_175" id="FNanchor_175"></a><a href="#Footnote_175"
class="fnanchor">[163]</a></p>
<p class="pgalone"><span class="xxpgn">
<a name="Page_215" id="Page_215"></a>[pg215]</span></p>
<p>Having received on board the detachment that had arrived
from the Konza village, except Messrs. {132} Say
and Jessup, who, on account of ill health, remained at Isle
au Vache, we left the mouth of Wolf river on the 2nd of
September. A party of hunters, furnished with a horse for
the transportation of game, were despatched at the same
time with instructions to hunt on the south side of the
river, and to join us again in the evening. We had little
difficulty in procuring a constant supply of venison. Deer
are very numerous on this part of the Missouri, and we
had several opportunities to kill them from on board, as
they were swimming across the river.</p>
<p>Twenty-one miles above the mouth of Wolf river, and<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_216" id="Page_216"></a>[pg216]</span>
on the same side, is the entrance of the Grand Nemahaw,
a considerable river which rises in the plains between the
Platte and the Republican Fork of the Konzas river, and
running eastwardly about one hundred and fifty miles,
discharges into the Missouri a little north of latitude forty
degrees. In the straightness of its course, the rapidity and
turbulence of its stream, it has a general resemblance to
the other western tributaries of the Missouri. A few miles
above the Nemahaw, and on the opposite side, is the mouth
of the Tarkio, a smaller stream.<a name="FNanchor_176" id="FNanchor_176"></a><a href="#Footnote_176" class="fnanchor">[164]</a></p>
<p>On the 4th of September we were joined by the hunters,
who brought two deer, and informed us they had killed
several others. Lieutenant Field's boat was allowed to
remain at the encampment of the preceding night, after
the departure of the steam-boat, for the purpose of taking
on board a large quantity of honey. Swarms of bees were
found here in great numbers, and the honey they afforded
made a valuable addition to our provisions, consisting now
in a great measure of hunters' fare.</p>
<p>Finding one of the valves of the steam-engine much
worn and leaky, we were now under the necessity of stopping
for a day to have a new one, which we had brought,
adapted to its place. Several of the men amused themselves
by hunting and fishing. {133} We had now a plentiful<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_217" id="Page_217"></a>[pg217]</span>
supply of game, and many large catfish were taken,
some of them weighing more than fifty pounds.</p>
<p>We passed in succession the mouths of the Nishnebottona
and the Little Nemahaw,<a name="FNanchor_177" id="FNanchor_177"></a><a href="#Footnote_177" class="fnanchor">[165]</a> and arrived on the 7th
at the Grand Pass. Here the Nishnebottona, a beautiful
river about sixty yards wide, approaches within one hundred
and fifty yards of the Missouri, being separated from
it by a sandy prairie, rising scarcely twenty feet above the
surface of the water. After pursuing for a short distance
a parallel course, the two rivers diverge, and the Nishnebottona
meanders along the side of the Missouri valley,
about sixty miles to its confluence with the latter river.<a name="FNanchor_178" id="FNanchor_178"></a><a href="#Footnote_178" class="fnanchor">[166]</a>
From this point is a pleasing view of the hills called the
Baldpated Prairie, stretching along the north-eastern side
of the Nishnebottona, and diminished to the size of anthills
in the distant perspective.<a name="FNanchor_179" id="FNanchor_179"></a><a href="#Footnote_179" class="fnanchor">[167]</a> Here the navigation is
much obstructed by sand-bars, and the ordinary current
of the Missouri, according to the statement of Lewis and<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_218" id="Page_218"></a>[pg218]</span>
Clarke, corroborated by our observation, is something
more than one fathom per second.<a name="FNanchor_180" id="FNanchor_180"></a><a href="#Footnote_180" class="fnanchor">[168]</a> In many places the
Missouri hurries across concealed sand bars and other obstructions,
with the velocity of seven, eight, or even twelve
feet in a second.<a name="FNanchor_181" id="FNanchor_181"></a><a href="#Footnote_181" class="fnanchor">[169]</a> Between these obstructions, the channel
becomes deeper, and the current more moderate; consequently
the aggregate velocity at times of low water may
be reckoned something less than six feet to the second.
As the volume of water is increased by the heavy rains,
and the melting of the snows within the Rocky Mountains,
the current is proportionably accelerated, and becomes
more equable, running for many miles in succession, not
less than seven hundred and twenty feet per minute. At
the time of our ascent the summer floods had not entirely
subsided, and in contending against the current, we found
occasion {134} in a few instances to make use of the towing
rope.</p>
<p>About thirteen miles above the Grand Pass is a point
where Lewis and Clarke witnessed the falling of a portion,
about three-fourths of a mile in length, of a high cliff of
sandstone and clay. Appearances have considerably
changed since the time of their journey. There is still an
indentation along the bluff, showing the upper part of the<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_219" id="Page_219"></a>[pg219]</span>
portion which had slid down, but the whole is now covered
with grass. The river has retired from the base of the
cliff it was then undermining. A grassy plain, of some
extent, occupies the spot where the bed of the river must
have been; but this prairie is, in its turn, experiencing the
vicissitude incident to every thing along the bank of the
Missouri, and is evidently very soon to disappear entirely.
A mile or two above this point are cliffs of sandstone and
indurated clay, in a state of rapid disintegration. Here
we observed extensive beds of aluminous earth, of a dark
grey colour, alternating with red and yellowish white sandstone.
Here are also numerous vegetable remains, which
Mr. Say thought to consist of the limbs of trees included
in the rock, carbonized and often intermixed with pyrites;
smaller limbs in short fragments lay intermixed, and crossing
each other in every direction.</p>
<p>Among other things, we observed here what appeared
to be the cast of the seed vessel of the nelumbium, of uncommon
magnitude. Fragments of mineral coal were
observed scattered about the surface.</p>
<p>The mouth of the Platte,<a name="FNanchor_182" id="FNanchor_182"></a><a href="#Footnote_182" class="fnanchor">[170]</a> where we arrived on the
15th of September is, according to our observations, in
latitude 41° 3′ 13″ north. We shall hereafter have occasion
to speak more particularly of this river. Its mouth
now exhibited a great extent of naked sand-bars, the water,
which was transparent and of a greenish colour, flowing
almost unseen through a number of small channels.
Masses of sand accumulate at the mouth of the Platte,
rendering the {135} navigation of the Missouri at that<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_220" id="Page_220"></a>[pg220]</span>
point extremely difficult. The Platte, during its floods,
pours into the Missouri a volume of water, considerably
exceeding in magnitude that of the latter river, occasioning
a reflux of the waters for many miles. From the
Platte upward, the annual range from high to low water in
the Missouri, may be rated at about eighteen feet.</p>
<p>Above the Platte, the scenery of the Missouri becomes
much more interesting. The bluffs on each side are more
elevated and abrupt, and being absolutely naked, rising
into conic points, split by innumerable ravines, they have
an imposing resemblance to groups of high granitic mountains,
seen at a distance. The forests within the valley
are of small extent, interspersed with wide meadows
covered with carices and cyperaceæ, with some species of
limnetis, polypogon, and arundo, sometimes sinking into
marshes occupied by sagittarias, alismas, and others of the
hydrocharidæ. The woodlands here, as on the whole of
the Missouri below, are filled with great numbers of pea
vines,<a name="FNanchor_183" id="FNanchor_183"></a><a href="#Footnote_183" class="fnanchor">[171]</a> which afford an excellent pasturage for horses and
cattle. The roots of the apios tuberosa were much sought
after, and eaten by the soldiers, who accompanied us in
our ascent. They are little tubers about half an inch in
diameter, and when boiled are very agreeable to the taste.
Two and a half miles above the mouth of the Platte, and
on the same side, is that of the Papilion, a stream of considerable
length, but discharging little water.<a name="FNanchor_184" id="FNanchor_184"></a><a href="#Footnote_184" class="fnanchor">[172]</a> Here we
found two boats belonging to the Indian traders at St.
Louis. They had passed us some days before, and were
to remain for the winter at the mouth of the Papilion, to
trade with the Otoes, Missouries, and other Indians.
<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_221"
id="Page_221"></a>[pg221]</span></p>
<p>The banks of the Missouri, above the Platte, have long
been frequented by the Indians, either as places {136} of
permanent or occasional residence. Deserted encampments
are often seen. On the north-east side, near the
mouth of Mosquito river, are the remains of an old
Ioway village. Four miles above, and on the opposite
side, was formerly a village of the Otoes. On the 17th of
September we arrived at the trading establishment of the
Missouri Fur Company, known as Fort Lisa, and occupied
by Mr. Manuel Lisa, one of the most active persons engaged
in the Missouri fur trade. We were received by a
salute from this establishment, and encamped a little
above, on the same side of the river.<a name="FNanchor_185"
id="FNanchor_185"></a><a href="#Footnote_185"
class="fnanchor">[173]</a></p>
<h2 title="Chapter VIII"><a name="Chapter_VIII" id="Chapter_VIII"></a>
<span class="smaller">{137}</span> CHAPTER VIII</h2>
<p class="chaphead">Winter cantonment near Council Bluff—Councils with
the Otoes, Missouries, Ioways, Pawnees, &c.</p>
<p class="toclink"><a href="#CONTENTS_OF_VOLUME_XIV">toc</a></p>
<p>The position selected for the establishment of winter
quarters for the exploring party, was on the west bank of
the Missouri, about half a mile above Fort Lisa, five miles
below Council Bluff, and three miles above the mouth of
Boyer's river.<a name="FNanchor_186" id="FNanchor_186"></a><a href="#Footnote_186" class="fnanchor">[174]</a> At this place we anchored on the 19th<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_222" id="Page_222"></a>[pg222]</span>
of September, and in a few days had made great progress
in cutting timber, quarrying stone, and other preparations
for the construction of quarters.</p>
<p>Cliffs of sparry limestone rise in the rear of the site we
had selected, to an elevation of near three hundred feet.<a
name="FNanchor_187" id="FNanchor_187"></a><a href="#Footnote_187"
class="fnanchor">[175]</a>
At times of low water, strata of horizontal sandstone are
disclosed in the bed of the Missouri. These pass under
and support the limestone. Both these strata probably
extend in connexion, some distance to the west; but as
they are deeply covered with soil, we could not accurately
ascertain their boundary in that direction. On the map
accompanying this work, we have traced a line running
from the Canadian river of the Arkansa, to the Elk Horn,
between 96° and 98° west longitude, and marking what
we supposed nearly the westernmost limit of the horizontal
limestones, and the argillaceous sandstones, disclosed
in the beds of the larger rivers.</p>
<p>{138} Both these strata embrace numerous relics of
marine animals, many of which we collected.<a name="FNanchor_188"
id="FNanchor_188"></a><a href="#Footnote_188" class="fnanchor">[176]</a></p>
<p class="pgalone"><span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_223" id="Page_223"></a>[pg223]</span></p>
<p>Immediately after our arrival, an interpreter had been
sent across the country, to intercept the traders then on
their way to the Pawnees, with considerable quantities of
merchandize. It was thought proper to suspend all intercourse
with those Indians, until an adjustment of the recent
difficulties should take place. In addition to the outrage
committed on Mr. Say's party, they had made prisoners
of two white hunters from the Arkansa, a father and son,
who had been found hunting in the Indian territories.
These men had been liberated through the interference of
some of the members of the Missouri Fur Company, and
had recently arrived at Fort Lisa. During their captivity,
they had been treated with such severity by the Pawnees,
that they had often entreated an end might be put to their
lives.<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_228"
id="Page_228"></a>[pg228]</span></p>
<p>The interpreter returned on the 20th, having accomplished
the object of his mission. Soon afterwards, Mr.
Dougherty arrived from the Oto village, whither he had
been sent with a deputation to Konzas, to aid in effecting
a reconciliation between those nations. This proposition,
which originated with the Konzas, was favourably received
by the Otoes. Mr. D. was soon afterwards despatched
to the Pawnees, with instructions to demand of
them the property plundered from Mr. Say's party, also
to require that the persons who had committed that outrage
should be given up. He was accompanied by two
Frenchmen acquainted with the Pawnees and their
language.</p>
<p>A party of Otoes arrived at Fort Lisa on the 26th of
September, with pack-horses laden with pelfries, and
bringing with them a soldier, who, having been accidentally
separated from a small detachment that were driving
some beeves from Martin's Cantonments, towards Council
Bluff, had wandered about in the prairie for five days,
without tasting food, {139} when he at last had the good
fortune to fall in with the Otoes, who hospitably fed and
conducted him to the trading house. <span class="xxpgn"><a
name="Page_229" id="Page_229"></a>[pg229]</span></p>
<p>The Council Bluff, so called by Lewis and Clarke, from
a council with the Otoes and Missouries held there on the
3d of August 1804, is a remarkable bank rising abruptly
from the brink of the river, to an elevation of about one
hundred and fifty feet. This is a most beautiful position,
having two important military features, security, and
a complete command of the river. Its defects are a want
of wood within a convenient distance, there being little
within a mile above, and much farther below, also a want
of stone and of water, except that of the river. From the
summits of the hills, about one mile in the rear of the
bluff, is presented the view of a most extensive and beautiful
landscape. The bluffs on the east side of the river
exhibit a chain of peaks stretching as far as the eye can
reach. The river is here and there seen meandering in
serpentine folds, along its broad valley, chequered with
woodlands and prairies, while at a nearer view you look
down on an extensive plain interspersed with a few scattered
copses or bushes, and terminated at a distance by
the Council Bluff.</p>
<p>This position is about five miles above that selected for
the wintering post of the exploring party. At the last
mentioned place, a very narrow plain or beach, closely
covered with trees, intervenes between the immediate
bank of the river and the bluffs, which rise near two hundred
feet, but are so gradually sloped as to be ascended
without great difficulty, and are also covered with trees.
This spot presented numerous advantages for the cantonment
of a small party like ours. Here were abundant supplies
of wood and stone, immediately on the spot where
we wished to erect our cabins, and the situation was sheltered
by the high bluffs from the north-west winds. The
place was called Engineer Cantonment. {140} On the<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_230" id="Page_230"></a>[pg230]</span>
26th of September, Mr. Say and Mr. Jessup arrived in the
flotilla from Cow Island, in company with Col. Morgan,
Dr. Gale, and Captain Magee.<a name="FNanchor_189" id="FNanchor_189"></a><a href="#Footnote_189" class="fnanchor">[177]</a> They had both nearly
recovered their health, and entertained the liveliest sense
of the eminent politeness and hospitality which had been
conferred on them by the above named gentlemen, as well
as the other officers of the military expedition.</p>
<p>About one hundred Otoes, together with a deputation
of the Ioway nation, who had been summoned to a council
by Major O'Fallon, presented themselves at our camp on
the 3d of October. The principal chiefs advanced before
their people, and upon invitation seated themselves. After
a short interval of silence Shonga-tonga, the Big Horse, a
large portly Indian of a commanding presence, arose and
said, "My father, your children have come to dance before
your tent, agreeably to our custom of honouring brave or
distinguished persons."</p>
<p>After a suitable reply, by Major O'Fallon, the amusement
of dancing was commenced by the striking up of
their rude instrumental and vocal music; the former consisting
of a gong made of a large keg, over one of the ends
of which a skin was stretched, which was struck by a small
stick; and another instrument, consisting of a stick of firm
wood, notched like a saw, over the teeth of which a smaller<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_231" id="Page_231"></a>[pg231]</span>
stick was rubbed forcibly backward and forward; with
these, rude as they were, very good time was preserved
with the vocal performers who sat around them, and by all
the natives as they sat in the inflection of their bodies, or
the movements of their limbs; after the lapse of a little
time three individuals leaped up and danced around for a
few minutes, then, at a concerted signal from the master
of the ceremonies, the music ceased, and they retired to
their seats uttering a loud noise, which by patting the
mouth rapidly with the hand, was broken into a succession
of similar sounds, somewhat like the hurried barking of a
dog. Several sets {141} of dancers succeeded, each terminating
as the first. In the intervals of the dances, a warrior
would step forward and strike a flagstaff they had
erected with a stick, whip, or other weapon, and recount
his martial deeds. This ceremony is called <i>striking the
post</i>, and whatever is then said may be relied upon as
rigid truth, being delivered in the presence of many a jealous
warrior and witness, who could easily detect and would
immediately disgrace the <i>striker</i> for exaggeration or falsehood.
This is called the beggars' dance, during which
some presents are always expected by the performers, as
tobacco, whiskey, or trinkets. But on this occasion, as
none of those articles were immediately offered, the amusement
was not, at first, distinguished by much activity.
The master of the ceremonies continually called aloud to
them to exert themselves; but still they were somewhat
dull and backward. Ietan now stepped forward and
lashed a post with his whip, declaring that he would thus
punish those who did not dance; this threat from one
whom they had vested with authority for this occasion
had a manifest effect upon his auditors, who were presently<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_232" id="Page_232"></a>[pg232]</span>
highly wrought up by the sight of two or three little mounds
of tobacco twist which were now laid before them, and
appeared to infuse new life.</p>
<p>After lashing the post and making his threat, Ietan went
on to narrate his martial exploits. He had stolen horses
seven or eight times from the Konzas; he had first struck
the bodies of three of that nation slain in battle. He had
stolen horses from the Ietan nation, and had struck one of
their dead. He had stolen horses from the Pawnees,
and struck the body of one Pawnee Loup. He had stolen
horses several times from the Omawhaws, and once from
the Puncas. He had struck the bodies of two Sioux. On
a war party, in company with the Pawnees, he had attacked
the Spaniards and penetrated into one of their
camps; the Spaniards, {142} excepting a man and boy,
fled; himself being at a distance before his party, he was
shot at and missed by the man, whom he immediately
shot down and struck. "This, my father," said he, "is
the only martial act of my life that I am ashamed of."<a name="FNanchor_190" id="FNanchor_190"></a><a href="#Footnote_190" class="fnanchor">[178]</a>
After several rounds of dancing, and of striking at the
post by the warriors, Mi-a-ke-ta, or the Little Soldier, a
war-worn veteran, took his turn to strike the post. He
leaped actively about, and strained his voice to its utmost
pitch whilst he portrayed some of the scenes of blood in<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_233" id="Page_233"></a>[pg233]</span>
which he had acted. He had struck dead bodies of individuals
of all the red nations around, Osages, Konzas,
Pawnee Loups, Pawnee Republicans, Grand Pawnees,
Puncas, Omawhaws, and Sioux, Padoucas, La Plais or
Bald Heads, Ietans, Sauks, Foxes, and Ioways;<a name="FNanchor_191" id="FNanchor_191"></a><a href="#Footnote_191" class="fnanchor">[179]</a> he had
struck eight of one nation, seven of another, &c. He was
proceeding with his account when Ietan ran up to him,
put his hand upon his mouth, and respectfully led him to
his seat. This act was no trifling compliment paid to the
well-known brave. It indicated that he had still so many
glorious acts to speak of, that he would occupy so much
time as to prevent others from speaking, and put to shame
the other warriors by the contrast of his actions with theirs.</p>
<p>Their physical action in dancing is principally confined<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_234" id="Page_234"></a>[pg234]</span>
to leaping a small distance from the ground with both
feet, the body being slightly inclined, and upon alighting,
an additional slight but sudden inclination of the body is
made, so as to appear like a succession of jerks; or the feet
are raised alternately, the motions of the body being the
same. Such are the movements, in which the whole party
correspond; but in the figures, as they are termed in our
assembly rooms, each individual performs a separate part,
and each part is a significant pantomimic narrative. In
all their variety of action they are careful to observe the
musical cadences. In this dance Ietan represented one
who was in the act of stealing {143} horses. He carried a
whip in his hand, as did a considerable number of the
Indians, and around his neck were thrown several leathern
thongs, for bridles and halters, the ends of which
trailed upon the ground behind him; after many preparatory
manœuvres, he stooped down, and with his knife
represented the act of cutting the <i>hopples</i> of horses; he
then rode his tomahawk, as children ride their broomsticks,
making such use of his whip as to indicate the
necessity of rapid movement lest his foes should overtake
him. Wa-sa-ba-jing-ga, or Little Black Bear, after a
variety of gestures, threw several arrows in succession over
his head, thereby indicating his familiarity with the flight
of such missiles; he at the same time covered his eyes with
his hand to indicate that he was blind to danger. Others
represented their manœuvres in battle, seeking their enemy,
discharging at him their guns or arrows, &c. &c. Most
of the dancers were the principal warriors of the nation,
men who had not condescended to amuse themselves
or others in this manner for years before; but they
now appeared in honour of the occasion, and to conciliate<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_235" id="Page_235"></a>[pg235]</span>
in the best manner the good will of the representative
of the government of the Big-knives.<a name="FNanchor_192" id="FNanchor_192"></a><a href="#Footnote_192" class="fnanchor">[180]</a>
Amongst these veteran warriors Ietan, or Sha-mon-e-kus-se,
Ha-she-a, the broken arm, commonly called Cut
Nose, and Wa-sa-ba-jing-ga, or Little Black Bear, three
youthful leaders, in particular attracted our attention.
In consequence of having been appointed soldiers on
this occasion, to preserve order, they were painted
entirely black. The countenance of the former indicated
much wit, and had in its expression something of
the character of that of Voltaire; he frequently excited
the mirth of those about him by his remarks and gestures.
Ha-she-a, called Cut Nose, in consequence of having lost
the tip of his nose in a quarrel<a name="FNanchor_193" id="FNanchor_193"></a><a href="#Footnote_193" class="fnanchor">[181]</a> with Ietan, wore a handsome
robe of white wolf skin, with an appendage behind
him, called a <i>crow</i>. This singular decoration is a large
cushion, made of the skin of a crow, {144} stuffed with any
light material, and variously ornamented; it has two decorated
sticks projecting from it upward, and a pendant one
beneath; this apparatus is secured upon the buttocks by
a girdle passing round the body. The other actors in the
scene were decorated with paints of several colours fantastically
disposed upon their persons. Several were
painted with white clay, which had the appearance of
being grooved in many places. This grooved appearance
is given by drawing the finger nails over the part so as to<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_236" id="Page_236"></a>[pg236]</span>
remove the pigment from thence in parallel lines. These
lines are either rectilinear, undulated, or zigzag; sometimes
passing over the forehead transversely or vertically;
sometimes in the same directions, or obliquely over the
whole visage, or upon the breast, arms, &c. Many were
painted with red clay, in which the same lines appeared.
A number of them had the representation of a black hand
with outspread fingers, on different parts of the body,
strongly contrasting with the principal colour with which
the body was overspread; the hand was depicted in different
positions upon the face, breast, and back. The face
of others was coloured, one half black, and one half white,
or red and white, &c.; many coloured their hair with red
clay; but the eye-lids and base of the ears were generally
tinged with vermilion. At the conclusion of the ceremony,
whiskey, which they always expect on similar occasions,
was produced, and a small portion was given to each.
The principal chiefs of the different nations, who had remained
passive spectators of the scene, now directed their
people to return to their camp. The word of the chiefs
was obeyed, excepting by a few of the Ioways, who appeared
to be determined to keep their places notwithstanding
the reiterated command of the chiefs. Ietan
now sprang towards them, with an expression of much
ferocity in his countenance, and it is probable a tragic
scene would have been displayed had not the chiefs {145}
requested him to use gentle means, and thus he succeeded,
after which the chiefs withdrew.</p>
<p>October 4th. At ten o'clock, the hour appointed for
the council, the Indians, headed by their chiefs, arrived;
and after shaking us all by the hand took their seats.
There were about one hundred Otoes, seventy Missouries,<span
class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_239" id="Page_239"></a>[pg239]</span>
and fifty or sixty Ioways. They arranged themselves,
agreeably to their tribes, on puncheon benches, which had
been prepared for them, and which described a semicircle,
on the chord of which sat the whites, with Major O'Fallon
and his interpreters in the centre. Sentinels walked to
and fro behind the benches; and a handsome standard
waved before the assembly. The council was opened by
a few rounds from the howitzers. A profound silence
reigned for a few minutes, when Major O'Fallon arose,
and in a very animated and energetic manner addressed
his Indian auditors. Suitable replies were given by
Shonga-tonga, the Crenier, and others, with all the extravagant
gesticulation which is one of the prominent features
of Indian oratory.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
<a id="Oto_Council"></a> <img src="images/i238.png" width="600"
height="358" alt="" /> <div class="caption">Oto Council <span
class="los"><a href="#ILLUSTRATIONS_TO_VOLUME_XIV">List of
Illustrations</a></span></div>
</div>
<p>At the termination of the council, presents were made
of blankets, kettles, strouding, tobacco, guns, powder, and
ball, &c. The Big Horse and the Crenier only were
acknowledged as chiefs, and to the latter, who did not
possess a large medal, one was given in exchange for a
smaller one which he possessed. No chief was acknowledged
amongst the Missouries, as it is the wish of Major
O'Fallon to extinguish as much as possible national prejudices
between these two nations or tribes.</p>
<p>Cut Nose now presented to the agent his crow and bison
robe ornamented with hieroglyphicks. The Little Black
Bear presented his robe of white wolf and bison skin, and
a pair of handsome leggings. The Black Bird presented
a robe and the serrated instrument of music before mentioned,
observing, significantly, that the latter was then
the only weapon {146} he possessed with which he could
defend his father.</p>
<p>October 5th. Last evening Loutre, an old Missouri<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_240" id="Page_240"></a>[pg240]</span>
Indian died; he had spoken in the council a few hours before,
and remarked then that he had not long to live. He
was buried without ceremony near the trading house.</p>
<p>October 9th. Messengers who had been sent yesterday
for the Pawnees returned, having met with them on the
Elk Horn creek, twenty-five miles distant, on their way
hither.<a name="FNanchor_194" id="FNanchor_194"></a><a href="#Footnote_194" class="fnanchor">[182]</a> They arrived about noon, seventy in number,
consisting of individuals of each of the three tribes, called
Grand Pawnees, Pawnee Republicans, and Pawnee Loups,
or Pawnemahas, and halted at some distance from our
camp. As we approached them we observed the majority
of them standing in a forest of young willow trees, holding
their mules by the bridles, and looking dubiously around.
The chief of the principal band, Long Hair, was haranguing
them in a loud voice, "Take off your saddles; why
do you stand peeping and trembling in the bushes? you
ought to have trembled when the whites were seen near the
Konza village, &c." We saluted the principal men in the
usual manner of shaking by the hand, though not with
much cordiality. Major O'Fallon then said, "Pawnees,
encamp here and smoke your pipes in security; you have
conducted yourselves badly, but the whites will not harm
the red-skins when they have them thus in their power;
we fight in the plains, and scorn to injure men seated
peaceably by their fires. Think well of what you will
have to say to me in council to-morrow." These assurances
appeared to annul their present apprehensions, and
they proceeded to encamp.</p>
<p>Three boats came from Camp Missouri to take on board<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_241" id="Page_241"></a>[pg241]</span>
a quantity of provisions which are stored here for the
troops; we exchanged salutes with them. The noise of
the artillery excited the apprehensions of the {147} Indians;
who, being sensible of having grossly offended the whites,
now anticipated some exemplary punishment, and were
not at ease until reassured of their safety, and the cause of
the firing of such great guns so near them was explained.</p>
<p>In the evening, accompanied by several gentlemen of
the party, we visited the camp of the Pawnees, whom we
found sitting round their fires, smoking their pipes in
silence. Some were employed in making bows, having
found plenty of hickory, and hop horn beam wood here,
which are not to be procured in the vicinity of their villages.
Their mules were tied to trees, feeding on the bark of the
cotton wood. The three tribes were seated around different
fires. We sat down in the group of Grand Pawnees,
and smoked with their chief Tar-ra-re-ca-wa-o, or Long
Hair. This [is] an hereditary chief, of a lofty and rather
haughty mien; his mouth is, perhaps through habit, drawn
down a little at the corners. He has the appearance and
character of an intrepid man, although not distinguished
as a warrior, having, during his life, killed but a single
man, who was a Spaniard. He is, however, artful and
politic, and has performed some laudable actions. The
following anecdote may serve in part to illustrate the more
amiable traits of his character. Dorion, a Mestizo,<a name="FNanchor_195" id="FNanchor_195"></a><a href="#Footnote_195" class="fnanchor">[183]</a> on
a trading expedition, had accumulated a considerable
quantity of peltry, at the Pawnee republican village, when
it was situated on the Republican fork of the Konza river.<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_242" id="Page_242"></a>[pg242]</span>
As he had no horses to transport his merchandize, he requested
the chief of that village to assist him in conveying
it to the Grand Pawnees on the Platte, as he intended to
descend that river to trade with the Otoes, on his way to
St. Louis; the chief directly ordered horses to be brought,
the furs were packed upon them, and they departed on the
journey; but owing to some alleged misconduct on the
part of Dorion, the chief, when half way, ordered the
goods to be taken from the horses, and to be left on the
plain. {148} He then, with his followers, returned to his village.
The trader, after bewailing his unfortunate condition,
at length resolved to go to the Grand Pawnee village and
solicit the aid of Long Hair. Having arrived at the residence
of the chief, he related to him in what manner he
had been used by the Republican chief, and concluded by
requesting assistance to bring in his goods. Long Hair,
without reply, ascended to the top of his lodge and called
out to his people to bring him one hundred horses. Taking
the best of these, and a sufficient number of attendants, he
accompanied Dorion, and assisted him to transport all his
peltries, and did not cease with his good offices, until he
had aided him in building a skin canoe, and had packed
all the merchandize aboard, although previously told by
Dorion that he had nothing to reward him with, having,
as he said, traded every thing away, though at the same
moment he had a number of Indian goods concealed in his
packs of buffalo robes. After all was completed, "Now,"
said the chief, "Dorion, I know that you are a bad man;
I have no doubt but you have a quantity of such goods as
we want, concealed in those packs, and could reward me
if you were liberal enough; but I ask nothing: you have a
forked tongue. You have abused me to the whites, by<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_243" id="Page_243"></a>[pg243]</span>
calling me a rascal, saying I robbed the traders, &c.; but
go, I will not harm you; tell the red head (Governor
Clarke) that I am a rascal, robber, &c., I am content."<a name="FNanchor_196" id="FNanchor_196"></a><a href="#Footnote_196" class="fnanchor">[184]</a></p>
<p>At another fire, surrounded by his particular band, sat
the Knife Chief, La-che-le-cha-ru, principal chief of the
Pawneemahas. He is a large portly man, with a very prepossessing
countenance; the hair on the sides of his head
is gray; he has a deep scar on the right side, from a wound
which was inflicted by a female prisoner, of the Padouca
nation, whom he had adopted and taken into his family.
This squaw, becoming infuriated at the prospect of the
state of slavery to which she supposed herself now reduced,
{149} stabbed her child to the heart, mortally wounded the
brother of this chief, and, before she could be despatched,
had inflicted this wound, through which the bowels protruded.
The individuals of this band live in great harmony
amongst themselves, owing probably to their having
but two chiefs, who are unrivalled. The second chief is a
Mestizo. Against this band we have no accusation; they
have always demeaned themselves well towards the
American whites.</p>
<p>In a third group were collected the representatives of
the Pawnee Republicans; this nation or clan stands accused
of whipping, robbing, and otherwise abusing a white
American and his son, whom they found trapping beaver
on the Arkansa river, this season; of killing two American
citizens, two years since, who were also trapping beaver
on the same river; and of robbing our party of sundry
articles and horses, near the Konza village, whilst under<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_244" id="Page_244"></a>[pg244]</span>
the protection of the flag of our country, of the nature of
which they had been instructed, and perfectly well understood.
These outrages, and many others, they had committed
on lands, to which they do not pretend to have any
claim, situated far from their own territories, and in the
immediate vicinity of nations with whom they then were,
and still are, at war.<a name="FNanchor_197" id="FNanchor_197"></a><a href="#Footnote_197" class="fnanchor">[185]</a></p>
<p>On the following day the Pawnees were summoned to
council, and in a short time they appeared marching leisurely
in a narrow pathway, in <i>Indian file</i>, led by the grand
chief; near this pathway the musical band was stationed,
and when Long Hair arrived opposite, they struck up,
suddenly and loudly, a martial air. We wished to observe
the effect which instruments, that he had never seen or
heard before, would produce on this distinguished man, and
therefore {150} eyed him closely, and were not disappointed
to observe that he did not deign to look upon them, or to
manifest, by any motion whatever, that he was sensible of
their presence. The Indians arranged themselves on the
benches prepared for them, and the cessation of the music
was succeeded by stillness, which was suddenly interrupted
by loud explosions from our howitzers, that startled many
of us, but did not appear to attract the notice of the
Pawnees.</p>
<p>Major O'Fallon rose and addressed them in a very
austere tone and manner; stating the offences they had
committed against the white people, and admonishing
them to a reformation in their conduct, and to restore the
articles they had stolen from us; this was chiefly directed<span
class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_247" id="Page_247"></a>[pg247]</span>
against the Pawnee Republicans; the Loups were applauded
for their uniformly good deportment.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
<a id="Pawnee_Council"></a> <img src="images/i246.png"
width="600" height="353" alt="" /> <div
class="caption">Pawnee Council <span class="los"><a
href="#ILLUSTRATIONS_TO_VOLUME_XIV">List of
Illustrations</a></span></div>
</div>
<p>The council terminated after much of the property taken
from us near the Konza village was restored, and a promise
given that the offenders should be punished by whipping.<a
name="FNanchor_198" id="FNanchor_198"></a><a href="#Footnote_198"
class="fnanchor">[186]</a></p>
<p>The leisure we enjoyed after our arrival at Engineer
Cantonment, afforded the opportunity of making numerous excursions
to collect animals, and to explore the neighbouring country.
We give here some account of two species of sorex, taken near
our cabins.<a name="FNanchor_199" id="FNanchor_199"></a><a
href="#Footnote_199" class="fnanchor">[187]</a></p>
<p class="pgalone"><span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_248" id="Page_248">[Pg
248]</a></span></p>
<p>Early in October the cabins for winter-quarters were
completed. Having made arrangements for the subsistence
of the party, and being about to return to Washington,
Major Long issued orders to the officers and
gentlemen of the expedition, for their government during
his absence. The following extract will show to what
objects they were instructed to direct their attention.</p>
<div class="blockquot">
<p>"Mr. Say will have every facility afforded him that circumstances
will admit to examine the country, {151} visit
the neighbouring Indians, procure animals, &c. for the
attainment of which he will call on Lt. Graham, who is
authorized to make any expenditures in behalf of the
expedition that may be deemed reasonable and necessary,
and afford any aid in his power, consistent with the performance
of other duties. Mr. Seymour or Mr. Peale
will accompany him, whenever their services are deemed
requisite.</p>
<p>"Major O'Fallon has given permission to Mr. Dougherty
to aid the gentlemen of the party, in acquiring information<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_249" id="Page_249"></a>[pg249]</span>
concerning the Indians, &c.; this gentleman will,
therefore, be consulted in relation to visits, and all kinds
of intercourse with the Indians, that may be necessary in
the prosecution of the duties of the expedition.</p>
<p>"In regard to these duties, the gentlemen of the expedition
will consult my orders of March last. The documents
transmitted from the Philosophical Society of Philadelphia,
by the Secretary of War; and the instructions of Mr. Jefferson
to Capt. Lewis, to be found in vol. 1st of Lewis and
Clarke's expedition,<a name="FNanchor_200" id="FNanchor_200"></a><a href="#Footnote_200" class="fnanchor">[188]</a> and regulate their observations and
inquiries accordingly.</p>
<p>"Lt. Graham will embrace every opportunity for celestial
and barometric observations, and calculate the latitude,
longitude, magnetic dip and variation, with the utmost
attainable precision; also the heights of the neighbouring
hills, and the adjacent high table lands. He will also continue
the meteorologic observations as usual, noticing the
changes of weather, and all celestial and atmospheric
phenomena. To aid him in these duties, he will call on
Lieut. Swift, or any other gentleman of the expedition,
who may not be particularly engaged at the time in other
important duties.</p>
<p>"It is believed, that the field for observation and inquiry
is here so extensive, that all the gentlemen of the expedition
will find ample range for the exercise of their talents in
their respective pursuits; and it is {152} hoped, that through
their unremitted exertions and perseverance, a rich harvest
of useful intelligence will be acquired."</p></div>
<p>On the 11th of October, Major Long and Mr. Jessup
took leave of their friends at Engineer Cantonment, and
<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_250"
id="Page_250"></a>[pg250]</span>
accompanied by several other persons, began to descend
the Missouri in a canoe, on their way towards Washington
and Philadelphia.</p>
<h2 title="Chapter IX"><a name="Chapter_IX" id="Chapter_IX"></a>
<span class="smaller">{153}</span> CHAPTER IX</h2>
<p class="chaphead">Animals—Sioux and Omawhaw Indians—Winter Residence
at Engineer Cantonment</p>
<p class="toclink"><a href="#CONTENTS_OF_VOLUME_XIV">toc</a></p>
<p>The subsequent account of the transactions at and near
Council Bluff, and of the observations made there, we copy
from the journal of Mr. Say.</p>
<p>Descriptions of some of the animals which occurred, are
given in the notes below.<a name="FNanchor_201"
id="FNanchor_201"></a><a href="#Footnote_201" class="fnanchor">[189]</a></p>
<p class="pgalone"><span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_251" id="Page_251"></a>[pg251]</span></p>
<p>The prairie wolves<a name="FNanchor_202" id="FNanchor_202"></a><a
href="#Footnote_202" class="fnanchor">[190]</a>
roam over the plains in considerable
numbers, and during the night, the principal season of
their hunts, they venture very near to the encampment of
the traveller. They are by far the most numerous of our
wolves, and often unite in packs for the purpose of chasing
deer, which they very frequently succeed in running down,
and killing. This, however, is an achievement attended
with much difficulty to them, and in which the exertion of
their utmost swiftness and cunning are so often unavailing,
that they are sometimes reduced to the necessity of eating
wild plums, and other fruits, to them almost indigestible,
in order to distend the stomach, and appease, in a degree,
the cravings of hunger.</p>
<p>Their bark is much more distinctly like that of the
domestic dog, than of any other animal; in fact the first
two or three notes could not be distinguished from the
bark of a small terrier, but these notes are succeeded by a
lengthened scream.</p>
<p>The wonderful intelligence of this animal is well worthy<span
class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_256" id="Page_256"></a>[pg256]</span>
of note, and a few anecdotes respecting it may not be
amiss. Mr. Peale constructed and tried various kinds of
traps to take them, one of which was of the description
called "a live trap," a shallow box reversed, and supported
at one end, by the {154} well known kind of trap sticks,
usually called the "figure four," which elevated the front
of the trap upwards of three feet above its slab flooring;
the trap was about six feet long, and nearly the same in
breadth, and was plentifully baited with offal. Notwithstanding
this arrangement, a wolf actually burrowed
under the flooring, and pulled down the bait through the
crevices of the floor; tracks of different sizes were observed
about the trap. This procedure would seem to be the
result of a faculty beyond mere instinct.</p>
<p>This trap proving useless, another was constructed in
a different part of the country, formed like a large cage,
but with a small entrance on the top, through which the
animals might enter, but not return; this was equally
unsuccessful; the wolves attempted in vain to get at
the bait, as they would not enter by the route prepared
for them.</p>
<p>A large double "steel trap" was next tried; this was
profusely baited, and the whole, with the exception of the
bait, was carefully concealed beneath the fallen leaves.
This was also unsuccessful. Tracks of the anticipated
victims were next day observed to be impressed in numbers
on the earth near the spot, but still the trap, with its
seductive charge, remained untouched. The bait was
then removed from the trap, and suspended over it from
the branch of a tree; several pieces of meat were also suspended
in a similar manner, from trees in the vicinity; the
following morning the bait over the trap alone remained.<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_257" id="Page_257"></a>[pg257]</span>
Supposing that their exquisite sense of smell warned them
of the position of the trap, it was removed, and again
covered with leaves, and the baits being disposed as before,
the leaves to a considerable distance around were burned,
and the trap remained perfectly concealed by ashes; still
the bait over the trap was avoided. Once only this trap
was sprung, and had fastened for a short time upon the
foot of a species, which was shot the following day at no
great distance; it proved to be a species distinct from the
{155} prairie wolf, and we have described it under the
name of C. nubilus.</p>
<p>In no respect disheartened by these futile attempts,
many times repeated, and varied in every obvious manner,
another scheme was executed, which eventuated in complete
success. This was the log trap, in which one log is
elevated above another at one end, by means of an upright
stick, which rests upon a rounded horizontal trigger stick,
on the inferior log.</p>
<p>The latrans does not diffuse the offensive odour, so remarkable
in the two species of jackalls, (C. aureus and
C. anthus) though in many respects it resembles those
animals. Like the Mexicanus, the hair on the vertebral
line is elongated; and we should be disposed to regard it as
the same animal, but it differs from the description of that
species, both in colour and physiognomy. The ears are
proportionally longer than those of C. cancrivorus, and,
as well as the tail, shorter than the corresponding parts of
C. mesomelas.</p>
<p>This animal, which does not seem to be known to naturalists,
unless it should prove to be the Mexicanus, is most
probably the original of the domestic dog, so common in
the villages of the Indians of this region, some of the varieties<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_258" id="Page_258"></a>[pg258]</span>
of which still retain much of the habit and manners of
this species.</p>
<p>On the 14th of October, four hundred Omawhaw Indians
assembled at Camp Missouri. Major O'Fallon
addressed them in an appropriate speech, stating the
reasons for their being called to council; upon which
Ong-pa-ton-ga, the Big Elk,<a name="FNanchor_203" id="FNanchor_203"></a><a href="#Footnote_203" class="fnanchor">[191]</a> arose, and after shaking by
the hand each of the whites present, placed his robe of
otter skins, and his mockasins under the feet of the agent,
whom he addressed to the following effect, as his language
was interpreted by Mr. Dougherty.</p>
<div class="blockquot">
<p>"He had heard that his father wished to see him, and
he had wished to see and to hear the words of his father,
ever since he learned that he was ascending {156} the river.
He was informed last fall of his being at the river Platte,
and as he could not then go to see him, he had now come
to visit him; and here I am, my father. All these young
people you see around here are yours; although they are
poor and trifling, yet they are your children. I have
always loved the whites since I first remember to have seen
them, and this affection increases with my age. All my
nation loves the whites, and always have loved them.
Amongst all the good things of this world I place the
whites first. But it appears that there are many nations
that live nearer to you than I, that do not love you, though
you have done more for them, than you have done for me.
When they meet with you, they flatter you, in order to get
presents from you, notwithstanding which, they would not
hesitate to kill some of your people on their way home.
Some of them shake hands with you in a friendly manner,<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_259" id="Page_259"></a>[pg259]</span>
whilst their hands are yet stained with your blood; and if
you examine your own hands, my father, I think you would
find some of it adhering to them yet. For my part, my
father, I am proud to boast, that my hands are clean.
Never has one of my nation stained his hands with the
blood of a white man. I do not understand, my father,
your mode of treating those well who treat you ill. It is
true, I know, that you have more sense than I have, but I
cannot understand it. I have heard that the Pawnees
have been to see you; a nation that has killed, robbed, and
insulted your people. I was also informed that you feasted
them, and at their departure you put weapons in their
hands. I should not be surprised to hear, that those very
weapons were stained with white man's blood before they
reached the Pawnee village. This is what I cannot understand.
This circumstance led me to believe, that if you
treated those that have injured you so well, you surely
would treat your poor children the Omawhaws, who have
never done harm to your people, with much kindness {157}
also. But I am afraid the transaction will have a bad effect
on my young men. When they heard of American troops
ascending this river, they feared and respected them. But
I am fearful that this transaction will throw them off their
guard, make them lose their respect for you, and cause
them to do something that they would not otherwise have
done, and thus create trouble and difference between us.
You said, my father, that those troops do not come to
harm us. I believe it is true. I consider them all my
brothers and friends. So far from thinking they come to
injure me, I regard them as my shield, to guard me against
bad nations around me. You say, that if ever there is a
difference between us, that it will be our fault; but I hope<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_260" id="Page_260"></a>[pg260]</span>
not, my father, I cannot think that the Omawhaws will
offer any indignity to your people, now that they have seen
all those troops, when they have not harmed individuals
who have resided years in their village unprotected,
although we were then less enlightened than we now are.
Some think, my father, that you have brought all these
warriors here to take our land from us, but I do not believe
it. For although I am but a poor, simple Indian,
yet I know that this land will not suit your farmers; if I
even thought your hearts bad enough to take the land, I
would not fear it, as I know there is not wood enough on
it for the use of whites. You might settle along this river,
where timber is to be found; but we can always get
wood enough in our country to make our little fires. There
is one thing I fear, my father; my nation is coming down
here to hunt this winter, and if you send out your soldiers
to hunt also, they will drive off all the game, and our
women and children will starve. We have heard of the
ascent of the troops up this river ever since last fall, and
we have been told by other nations, that if they chance to
meet with any squaws unprotected, they ravish them.
But, my father, we shall soon know if this be true or not;
because, having {158} but little to eat, our squaws will be
obliged to go out into the prairies to dig roots; I shall trust
to you, and not hesitate to let them go." He also observed,
that he could not see the necessity of stationing so many
troops here, as there was no one to oppose; he thought it
desirable that they should go higher up the river, to chastise
those refractory Indians who will not listen to our words.
"There is one thing, my father," he observed, "which I
wish you to inform me of. We have heard of your tying
up and whipping individuals of several nations, as you<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_261" id="Page_261"></a>[pg261]</span>
ascended this river. What is the offence which will subject
us to this punishment? I wish to know, that I may
inform my people, that they may be on their guard." He
then observed that all his children were poor, and that they
had come with the expectation of receiving something from
their father.</p></div>
<p>This speech, contrary to the usual mode of Indian orators,
was commenced in a low tone, the voice gradually
rising as the speaker proceeded, until it attained its full
intonation.</p>
<p>Several speakers subsequently went forward and delivered
their sentiments, generally alluding to the circumstance
of our treating those who injure us kindly, and
neglecting our friends.</p>
<p>Ta-sone, the White Cow,<a name="FNanchor_204" id="FNanchor_204"></a><a href="#Footnote_204" class="fnanchor">[192]</a> spoke with that allusion, and
added, "Look at me, my father, look at my hands; examine
me well, I am a wild man, born in the prairie;" and
subsequently, "I told you, my father, to look at me, that
you might see if there is any of the blood of your people
upon me. Some, whose hands have been stained with
blood, endeavour to wash it off, but some of it will still
remain."</p>
<p>It is proper to mention, as explanatory of some of the
allusions in the above speeches, that the Pawnees, at the
conclusion of their council, had been invited to dine at
Camp Missouri, and that many of their chiefs were there
presented with sabres, as I before stated. It was to this
circumstance that the above-mentioned {159} speakers had
reference, as being inexplicable to them; as it seemed as
if we wished to conciliate the good will of those evil-doers<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_262" id="Page_262"></a>[pg262]</span>
through fear, and yet they could hardly accuse us of fear,
surrounded as we were by so formidable an array of troops.</p>
<p>It was evident, however, that the speakers had mentally
no reference to Major O'Fallon, as they knew he had not
committed or sanctioned the acts of which they complained
in their truly delicate and peculiar manner. But
they looked upon him as responsible for the actions of his
people, knowing him to be the representative of the government,
and that in case of wrong, they could not obtain
redress from any other person. How much soever Major
O'Fallon may have disapproved of the treatment which
the Pawnees had received from the military, he was perfectly
conscious of having conducted himself towards them
according to their deserts, so far as power had been placed
in his hands. But being thus verbally accused, pointedly
and repeatedly of injustice, for acts not his own, he arose
and said, "Omawhaws, you say I called the Pawnees here
to feast them and make them presents, after they had
killed and insulted us, but it is not true. I did not smoke
the pipe of peace with them, neither will I, until our differences
are settled. I told the Pawnees that, even if I stood
unsupported before them, I would, nevertheless, either
compel them to make reparation for their offences, or
leave my bones amongst them for my nation to come and
bury."</p>
<p>The Big Elk, and Big Eyes, were the only chiefs acknowledged
by Major O'Fallon, who then made liberal
presents to them for their people.</p>
<p>Some of these presents were distributed by the Indians
after a peculiar manner, but which I learn is very common
amongst the Indians of this country. A certain portion of
them is placed upon the ground, and whoever can <i>strike</i><span
class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_263" id="Page_263"></a>[pg263]</span>
<i>the post</i> the most frequently, {160} gains them. Another
portion is then staked for any other competitors who may
choose to advance. A valuable stake was then offered, and
an aged veteran stepped forth, and looking round upon his
nation with a majestic mien, in which there was not a little
expression of triumph, he seemed to challenge the bravest
of the brave to come forward and compete with him for the
possession of it; but agreeably to his expectations no one
advanced, and he bore off the prize by common consent,
without going through the ceremony of <i>striking</i>.</p>
<p>From the 24th of October to the 10th of November, the
atmosphere was generally filled with a dense smoke, like
a fog or stratus, which proceeded from the conflagrated
prairies. It sometimes affected our vision painfully,
sometimes it so far intercepted the rays of the sun that the
disk of that luminary appeared of a blood-red, and the eye
could repose upon it uninjured. On the morning of the
8th instant, it occurred in greater quantity than at any
other time, when it was so extremely dense as to intercept
a view of the opposite shore of the Missouri from Engineer
Cantonment.</p>
<p>On the 9th of November some rain fell, attended with
thunder and lightning. The rain continued on the day
following, with the wind from the south-east; at evening
the smoke was almost entirely dissipated, and the clouds,
which were cirro-cumuli passing to the north-north-west,
became visible.</p>
<p>A party of Sioux visited us on the 15th of November, to
view the steam-boat. As Major Long had left orders to
put the steam machinery in action occasionally, in order
to preserve it from rust, Lieutenant Graham concluded to
exhibit the boat with the engine in action. The Indians<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_264" id="Page_264"></a>[pg264]</span>
hesitated to enter the boat, fearing, as they said, that it was,
or that it contained some <i>great medicine</i> of the Big-knives
that might injure them. But when on board and at their
ease, one of them observed doubtingly, {161} "he hardly
thought the Big-knives had any medicine to hurt them."
They appeared much delighted with the boat; its size
seemed to surprise them, several measured the width of the
deck by straddling, instead of pacing as we do. We exhibited
to them the air-gun, magnet, &c. which considerably
excited their attention. Two of the howitzers were discharged,
loaded with case-shot; the effect produced, of the
shot falling into the water, at unequal distances and times,
was new and unexpected, and they covered their mouths
with the hand, to express their astonishment. Of these
warriors, three are Tetons, one a Yancton, and a Sa-ho-ne;
three different tribes of the great Dacota or Sioux nation.
They are fine looking men, with very prominent cheekbones.
They are more attentive to their dress, and are
much neater than the other Indians we have seen; though
it is proper to observe that, as visitors, they are clothed in
their best attire. They decorate their hair with a profusion
of feathers of the war eagle, and of a species of owl
which we have not seen. They also suspend in the headdress
an entire skin of the paroquet. The hair is in great
profusion, and is thrown upon the back in very long rolls;
but upon close inspection, the greater portion of it is perceived
to be false hair artificially attached to their own,
the points of junction being indicated by small masses of
clay, with which the attachment is effected. Two of these
Tetons are inseparable friends, were raised together from
their infancy, and although not allied by blood, there is a
strong personal resemblance between them, which is not a<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_265" id="Page_265"></a>[pg265]</span>
little enhanced by a studied similarity in dress and ornaments.
These two individuals are firm friends to the
whites. One of them was a few years since at the Sa-ho-ne
village in company with a trader, and being invited to a
feast, they had proceeded but a short distance, when a
Sa-ho-ne rushed from his concealment and knocked the
trader down with his war-club. The Teton immediately
{162} attacked the assailant, felled him in his turn to the
earth, gashed his body with the spear of his war-club and
left him for dead. This is a strong evidence of the determination
of the savages, as they are called, to protect
those whom they consider under their guardianship. The
Teton retaliated the blow given to the trader, not only at
the immediate risk of his life in the combat, but of having
to expiate the deed to many a kindred exasperated warrior,
and also at the hazard of originating a war between the
two bands.</p>
<p>In the course of the winter we received frequent supplies
of provisions from Camp Missouri; and by means of
some exertion and diligence in hunting, we were able to
procure plenty of fresh venison and other game. For
coffee we substituted the fruit of the gymnocladus canadensis,
which afforded a palatable and wholesome beverage.
The flesh of the <i>skunk</i> we had sometimes dressed for
dinner, and found it a remarkably rich and delicate food.</p>
<p>On the 5th of December, the gentlemen of the party
dined by invitation with Mr. M. Lisa.</p>
<p>The principal Ioway chief was once at our camp; he is
a very intelligent Indian, with a solemn dignity of deportment,
and would not deign to enter our houses or even to
approach them until invited. He is said to have a more
intimate knowledge of the manners of the whites, than any<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_266" id="Page_266"></a>[pg266]</span>
other Indian of the Missouri, and to be acquainted with
many of the words of our language, but will not willingly
make use of them, fearing to express himself improperly,
or not trusting to his pronunciation. He remained near
Council Bluff in the autumn, in order to be present at the
councils with the different nations, and to observe the conduct
of the whites towards them respectively, a considerable
time after his nation had departed down the river to their
beaver trapping. After this he went with his family to the
head waters of the Boyer, and during his stay there trapped
sixty {163} beaver; when with us he was about to go in
search of his people. He had three wives with him, one of
whom appeared to be about nine or ten years of age, and
whom we mistook for his daughter, until he undeceived us.
We showed him our books of engravings, with which he
was highly pleased. The Indians, almost all of them,
delight to look over engravings, particularly those which
represent animals; they are not soon fatigued when employed
in this way.</p>
<p>This Indian is known by several names, as Grand Batture,
Hard Heart, Sandbar, and in his own language,
Wang-e-waha. During our late contest with Great
Britain, he turned his back upon his nation, in consequence
of their raising the tomahawk upon our citizens,
and crossing the Missouri, united his destiny with the
Otoes, who received and treated him with distinguished
respect. Last autumn his nation joined him, and submitted
to his guidance; so that the Otoes, Missouries, and
Ioways were then united.</p>
<p>Some time since in a transaction with a captain, formerly
of the United States' army, he thought himself grossly insulted,
and demanded on the spot personal satisfaction,<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_267" id="Page_267"></a>[pg267]</span>
agreeably to the custom of the whites, challenging his
opponent to single combat, with pistols or such other
weapons as he might choose.</p>
<p>He is esteemed the bravest and most intelligent of the
Ioways, and amongst the Otoes he was associated with
many equally brave with himself. But as there are national
prejudices amongst the Indians as well as amongst
the whites, he has not escaped from many a keen allusion
to his nation. In a quarrel, which arose from some expressions
of this nature, Ietan knocked him down with a
war-club.</p>
<p>He has been in fifty battles, and has commanded in
seven.</p>
<p>He says the white people often request the Indians to
abstain from war, and yet the white people continue {164}
to fight each other, as if they wished to monopolize the occupation
of war, and thereby deprive the Indian of his
principal avenue to honour and dignity.</p>
<p>Several Omawhaws, who have been trapping in the
country opposite to Blackbird-hill, remained with us last
night. The principal one, A-ha-ga-nash-he, or the Upright
Horn, has a rather handsome Sioux squaw, to whom
he appears to be much attached, paying her great attention
in conversation, giving her a portion of his whiskey, and
handing her the pipe to smoke. She is, however, not
exempted from the ordinary employments of the Indian
women, and we had an opportunity to-day of seeing her
depart from Mr. Lisa's with a heavy load, consisting of the
goods which her husband had received in exchange for his
beaver, on her back, whilst he carried only a keg of whiskey
slung over his shoulders, and his gun and hunting apparatus.
Previously to the departure of the Omawhaws from<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_268" id="Page_268"></a>[pg268]</span>
our establishment this morning, the brother of one of
them, who, report said, had been killed by the Sioux,
arrived; he has been with about ten lodges, (about twenty
men) of his tribe trapping on the Elk Horn, and they had
taken about two hundred beavers. He has taken sixty
himself, of which he presented his elder brother twenty,
and is on his way to Mr. Lisa, to have a trader with merchandize
sent to his party to deal for the skins. It is a
singular circumstance, that this is the second instance of
these two brothers meeting in this vicinity, after the one
had been supposed to have been killed by the Sioux.</p>
<p>A-ha-ga-nash-he, whom we invited to take up his
lodgings for the night in our room, became alarmed at my
repute as a medicine man, fearing that I would cast some
spell upon him, or otherwise injure him by the operation
of some potent mystic medicine: he removed his quarters
to the adjoining room, where he seemed to think he was
safe from my incantations.</p>
<p>Our hunter, whose name is No-zun-da-je; or, "He {165}
that does not dodge," is esteemed a good hunter by his
nation; but he is not a distinguished warrior, although he
has been in numerous battles. He says he has killed several
red skins in action, but never yet had the honour to <i>strike</i> a
body. He showed us the scars of many wounds, most of
which he had inflicted on himself, when in mourning for
the death of his relatives and friends, by thrusting arrows
through the skin and a portion of the flesh of his arm. His
brother, at the same time, showed many scars which he
had caused by cutting out pieces from his body with a
knife, on the same occasions.</p>
<p>Several Omawhaws visited us on the 8th, and a party
of three of them, who were in possession of a keg of whiskey,<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_269" id="Page_269"></a>[pg269]</span>
invited our hunter to accompany them, for the night,
to "make his heart glad" with a portion of its contents.
The Omawhaws, Otoes, Missouries, and Ioways are excessively
attached to this destructive liquor.</p>
<p>On the 9th December, Lieutenant Swift, in company
with Mr. Pilcher<a name="FNanchor_205" id="FNanchor_205"></a><a href="#Footnote_205" class="fnanchor">[193]</a> of the Missouri Fur Company, set out
on a visit to the Omawhaws. His course was first directed
towards the Elk Horn river, tributary to the Platte, and
afterwards along the valley of the former, to the Omawhaw
encampment, which he reached at the distance of about
one hundred and twenty miles. The country over which
he travelled was almost entirely destitute of woodland; the
surface generally cut by numerous ravines; the soil for the
most part sandy, but in some instances enriched by a
black loam. He returned to camp on the 23d, his companion
having purchased of the Indians one hundred and
thirty beaver skins, besides raccoon and deer skins.</p>
<p>10th. By a recent occurrence, the late treaty of peace
between the Otoes and Konzas was on the eve of being
infracted. The Otoes, who were encamped for hunting
near the mouth of the Platte, had four horses stolen from
them about two weeks since, and {166} subsequently ten
more. These robberies were immediately attributed to the
Konzas, and a war-party prepared themselves to march and
retaliate upon that nation. Hashea, however, prevented
them from going, saying that their father (Major O'Fallon)<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_270" id="Page_270"></a>[pg270]</span>
had been instrumental in reconciling them to a peace with
the Konzas, and it would be highly improper for them to
strike a blow, without asking his opinion upon the subject.
It seems more probable that the horses have been taken
either by the Sauks or Ioways. The latter appears to be
a faithless people; they obtained a considerable quantity
of goods on credit, last fall, from the Missouri Fur Company,
and now, we are informed, instead of returning to
discharge their debts, they are on their way down the river
to barter their beaver at Fort Osage. It is said they will
inhabit their old village, on the river Des Moines, the
ensuing season.</p>
<p>12th. Many Indians visited us yesterday and to-day,
some of whom brought jerked deer meat, mockasins, &c.
to exchange for their favourite drink, and for trinkets.
But as we have none of the latter, and as the former is
interdicted from them by our laws, we are not authorized
to make any purchases. That they do contrive to get
whiskey elsewhere, perhaps of the traders, we have abundant
proof. Yesterday a squaw got drunk, and made
much noise; but her companions, after much ado, carried
her off to their encampment.</p>
<p>As we were cutting up a log for fuel, one of the Omawhaws
seeing a knot or protuberance of the wood, suitable
to form into a bowl, requested us to cut it off for him; but
not choosing to gratify him in that manner, we offered the
axe we were using, that he might cut it in his own way; he,
however, would not accept of it, but pointed to the palm of
his hand, giving us to understand that such labour would
make his hand sore and hard; he then called one of his
squaws, who immediately went to work, {167} and handled
the axe very dexterously. Observing several young Indians
passing, I indicated to her the propriety of requesting<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_271" id="Page_271"></a>[pg271]</span>
one of them to assist her, but she laughed significantly,
as if she would say—you are ironical.</p>
<p>The Indians are very fickle in bargaining. An Indian,
some time since, exchanged his rifle for Mr. Dougherty's
shot gun; yesterday he reversed the bargain, giving a pair
of mockasins in return; and this morning he requested to
exchange again, in which he was gratified.</p>
<p>A squaw offered to exchange mockasins for a couple of
our military stocks. We could not conceive to what use
she would apply them, but, upon inquiry, we learned that
she wished to ornament the crupper of her horse with them.</p>
<p>The stone quarry, which supplied limestone for building
chimnies at camp Missouri, was situate at the distance of
an hundred yards below our cantonment. The labourers
that were employed in this quarry opened upon many large
fissures, in which were found a number of serpents that
had entered there for the purpose of hybernating. Of
these, three species appear to be new.<a name="FNanchor_206"
id="FNanchor_206"></a><a href="#Footnote_206"
class="fnanchor">[194]</a></p>
<p class="pgalone"><span class="xxpgn">
<a name="Page_272" id="Page_272"></a>[pg272]</span></p>
<p>This morning three Omawhaws were fired upon by a
war-party of five Ioway Indians, and two were wounded;
this occurred on the east side of the river, nearly opposite
to our cantonment. When they fired, each one called out
his name agreeably to the Indian custom. A party of
Omawhaws then assembled, and pursued them about fifteen
miles, but without success.</p>
<p>Two Oto warriors, and a boy, nephew of Ishta-gre-ja,
Gray Eyes the elder, visited us this afternoon. They have
been hunting on Blue Water creek, in the neighbourhood
of the Konzas hunting camps, and not distant from the<span
class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_273" id="Page_273"></a>[pg273]</span>
village of the latter; they have been so fortunate as to take
one hundred and forty beavers, the skins of which they left
at {168} their village, under the care of the son of Gray Eyes
and their squaws; their business in this quarter is to look
out for the best market for their peltries. They say it was
certainly not the Konzas who stole the horses from their
brethren who are encamped near the confluence of the
Platte. They attribute that theft to the Ioways, who,
they say, are still fools, as they always have proved themselves
to be.</p>
<p>30th. In the morning a nimbus from the north. An<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_274" id="Page_274"></a>[pg274]</span>
imperfect parhelion appeared at sunrise, consisting of
three luminous spots, at about 22° distant from each other
in the horizon; one of them was the real place of the sun,
and the others were to the north and south of it. As the
sun ascended towards the zenith, the mock suns continued
to ascend equally and parallel with it, but became gradually
fainter until they disappeared near the zenith.</p>
<p>Evening. A complete paraselene appeared about the
moon, of the diameter of 45 degrees.</p>
<p>The mercury was below Zero the greater part of the day,
in Fahrenheit's thermometer.</p>
<p>31st. Several Canadians in the employ of the Missouri
Fur Company, came this evening to dance and sing before
us, agreeably to the custom of their countrymen, in celebration
of the termination of the year. They were adorned
with paint after the Indian manner, clothed with bison
robes, and had bells attached to different parts of their
dress. So completely were they disguised, that three of
their employers, who happened to be present, had much
difficulty in recognizing them. This dance is called <i>La
Gineolet</i>,<a name="FNanchor_207" id="FNanchor_207"></a><a href="#Footnote_207" class="fnanchor">[195]</a> and may have had its origin in the same cause
that produced our <i>Belshnickles</i>, who make their appearance
on Christmas-eve. We gave them what was expected,
whiskey, flour, and meat.</p>
<p>January 6th, 1820. Mr. Graham and I measured the
width of the river in two places, a short distance below our
cantonment, and a short distance above; [158] the latter
gave two hundred and seventy-seven and one-third yards,
and the former one hundred yards. <span class="xxpgn">
<a name="Page_275" id="Page_275"></a>[pg275]</span></p>
<p>We hear the barking of the prairie wolves every night
about us; they venture close to our huts; last night they
ran down and killed a doe, within a short distance of our
huts; this morning the remains of the carcass were found,
consisting only of bones and skin.</p>
<p>Mr. Fontenelle,<a name="FNanchor_208" id="FNanchor_208"></a>
<a href="#Footnote_208" class="fnanchor">[196]</a> in the
employ of the Missouri Fur Company, who has been absent for
some time trading with one of the bands of the Omawhaws, called
to-day on his return; this band had been much necessitated
for food, subsisting for some time upon the fruit of the red
haws, which the squaws sought for beneath the proper trees,
under the snow. He met with some of the nation of Sioux, called
Gens de Feuille<a name="FNanchor_209" id="FNanchor_209"></a><a
href="#Footnote_209" class="fnanchor">[197]</a> by the French.
They have been much thinned in numbers by a disorder, which,
from the description given of it, may be the quinsy. This same
band is said to have suffered much from the small-pox last
autumn. They were also now nearly starved for want of food;
but they said if they could hold out until they arrived at
Min-da-wa-cong, or Medicine lake, (on the maps, Spirit lake,)<a
name="FNanchor_210" id="FNanchor_210"></a><a href="#Footnote_210"
class="fnanchor">[198]</a> they would do very well, as they had
there a considerable quantity of wild oats buried, or <i>caché</i>, as
the French say.</p>
<p>13th. Ietan,<a name="FNanchor_211" id="FNanchor_211"></a><a href="#Footnote_211" class="fnanchor">[199]</a> an Oto, of whom we have before spoken,<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_276" id="Page_276"></a>[pg276]</span>
visited us to-day for the purpose of getting two gun-locks
mended. He left his people at the Republican fork of the
Konza river, and intends as soon as he returns, to lead a
party in pursuit of bisons, which he says are in plenty on
the Loup fork of the Platte, about sixty miles distant
from us.<a name="FNanchor_212" id="FNanchor_212"></a><a href="#Footnote_212" class="fnanchor">[200]</a></p>
<p>14th. Ietan called this morning, and as some of our
party were going to visit at Camp Missouri, he accompanied
them in order to obtain Major O'Fallon's permission
for his nation to go to war with the {170} Konzas.
He informed the agent that individuals of that nation had
sometime since stolen horses from them. That one of the
losers, Big Soldier, had gone to the Konza village to demand
the horses; but seeing a number of horses belonging to that
nation when he arrived near the village, he could not resist
the temptation of immediately retaliating by seizing several,
and appropriating them to his own use. But, Ietan
said, he thought the honour of his nation still called for
war, and he solicited the acquiescence of the agent in that
measure. The Major replied, that his opinion ought to
have been asked previously to the retaliatory measure
which had already been prematurely taken, as they were
not certain that the Konzas were the offenders, and that
this ought to have been ascertained before any depredation
on the Konzas had been committed. But the course
which he would now advise them to pursue was, to send a
deputation to the Konzas, for the purpose of ascertaining
the fact, to return the Konzas' horses, and to demand their<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_277" id="Page_277"></a>[pg277]</span>
own. This course seemed satisfactory to the warrior; who,
however, stated that if the Konzas attempted to steal
horses from them in future, he would certainly lead a war
party himself against them.</p>
<p>15th. Mr. Woods, of the Missouri Fur Company, has
returned from a trading excursion. He reports that he
saw several of the Pawnee <i>caches</i>, which had been broken
open and robbed of their corn by the Omawhaws. This
is by no means a rare occurrence with the Indians, but it
does not appear that it has ever led to hostilities between
nations; they say that when a person is in want of food, he
has a right to take any he can find.</p>
<p>Corporal Norman, who went out this morning to kill
rabbits, returned about noon with twenty-seven, which he
had killed with single balls.</p>
<p>February 9th. Several Oto Indians have visited us
within this day or two, and one of them, Ca-he-ga-in-ya,
{171} remained with us last night; he was finely dressed,
had on a chief's coat laced with silver, and a profusion
of wampum about his neck, and suspended to his ears;
he departed this morning on his way to the Omawhaws,
to trade for horses.</p>
<p>The ice on the Missouri is sixteen inches in thickness,
that of the Boyer creek fifteen and three-fourths.</p>
<p>12th. Messrs. Dougherty, Peel [Peale], and myself, with
an assistant, encamped at a pond near the Boyer to obtain
fish; we cut several holes in the ice of the pond, and obtained
one otter and a number of small fishes, amongst
which three species appeared to be new; several specimens
were of the genus gasterosteus.</p>
<p>15th. Mr. Zenoni, of the Fur Company, who departed
the twenty-seventh ultimo on a trading expedition, returned<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_278" id="Page_278"></a>[pg278]</span>
and remained with us last night. He and two
men had ascended the Elk Horn about twenty-five miles
higher than Mr. Swift had been, but were not successful
in finding any Indians. And although they saw a few
bisons and antelopes, and elks, they were not so fortunate
as to kill any game for subsistence, excepting three turkeys;
so that they returned in a state of considerable exhaustion,
having been for some time on an allowance of a
little maize per day. He found that the upper part of the
Elk Horn had not frozen during the severe weather, but
still remained open. This circumstance seems to indicate
the flow of a great quantity of spring water, or water
of a medium temperature, in that part of the stream, requiring
time to cool in its passage, before it can congeal.</p>
<p>19th. The sand is blown by the violence of the wind
from the sand-bars of the river, so as to resemble a dense
fog. We have been hitherto very well supplied with fresh
meat, from game killed principally by Mr. Peale, who, on
one occasion, killed two deer at a single shot and with one
ball, but we are now reduced again to salt pork of a very
inferior quality. {172} The party, with the exception of
myself, continue to enjoy good health.</p>
<p>22d. Messrs. Dougherty and Peale returned from a
hunt, having killed twelve bisons out of a herd of several
hundreds they met with near Sioux river, and brought us
a seasonable supply of meat. They saw several herds of
elk, and yesterday they saw swans, geese, and ducks, flying
up the river. A dinner and ball were given at Camp Missouri,
in honour of the day, to which our party were invited.</p>
<p>24th. Mr. Graham and I endeavoured to ascertain the
rapidity of the current of this part of the Missouri, at the
present low water. We availed ourselves of a long vacancy<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_279" id="Page_279"></a>[pg279]</span>
in the ice to float a porter bottle, to which the proper
specific gravity was given, by partially filling it with water,
it was attached to a cord of one hundred and twenty-two
feet in length; it floated this distance in six successive experiments
in the following several times 1′ 07″—1′ 04″—1′
07½″—1′ 05″—1′ 07″—1′ 07″, the mean of which is
1′ 06½″ nearly, giving a velocity of 1 mile 441 yards 1½
feet per hour.</p>
<p>By these experiments, however, the superficial current
or stratum only was indicated, and as we had reason to
suppose that this stratum was more impeded by friction
against the inferior surface of the ice than it would be by
the atmosphere, it became an object to ascertain the average
velocity of the different depths. With this view a
staff ten feet long was made to float vertically, by means of
a weight attached to its inferior extremity; a line of one
hundred and seventy-eight feet in length was run out by
this arrangement, during the following intervals of time,
in four experiments, viz. 1′ 21″—1′ 21″—1′ 19″—1′ 21″,
of which the mean is 1′ 20½″, which would seem to indicate
a current of the velocity of 1 mile 893 yards 1 foot per
hour. Thus the average velocity of ten feet in depth of
the current of the Missouri, is greater by almost 452 yards
in a single hour, than {173} that of a superficial stratum of
about six inches depth, during the ice-bound state of
the river. During these experiments the atmosphere was
nearly calm.</p>
<p>25th. Cooked for dinner the entire hump of a bison,
after the manner of the Indians; this favourite part of the
animal was dissected from the vertebræ, after which the
spinous processes were taken out, and the denuded part
was covered with skin, which was firmly sewed to that of<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_280" id="Page_280"></a>[pg280]</span>
the back and sides of the hump; the hair was burned and
pulled off, and the whole mass exhibiting something of a
fusiform shape, was last evening placed in a hole dug in
the earth for its reception, which had been previously
heated by means of a strong fire in and upon it. It was
now covered with cinders and earth, to the depth of about
one foot, and a strong fire was made over it. In this situation
it remained until it was taken up for the table to-day,
when it was found to be excellent food. Mr. Lisa and
family dined with us by invitation. That we have sometimes
food in great sufficiency, the provision upon our table
this day will sufficiently attest. It consisted of the entire
bison hump, above mentioned; the rump of a bison roasted,
boiled bison meat, two boiled bison tongues, the spinous
processes roasted in the manner of spare-ribs, sausages
made of minced tender loin and fat, &c. It is true that
we have no vegetables whatever, but having been so long
estranged from them, we scarcely regret their absence.
Their place is supplied by excellent wheat flour, of which
our cook prepares us bread fully equal, in point of excellence,
to any that we have ever eaten. The above repast
was prepared for eleven persons, of whom two were ladies.<a name="FNanchor_213" id="FNanchor_213"></a><a href="#Footnote_213" class="fnanchor">[201]</a>
The collation was succeeded by coffee as a desert.</p>
<p>February 28th. I ascertained the temperature of spring
water, which, however, was somewhat exposed to the atmosphere,
but in a shaded situation, and in a ravine, to be
47°; that of the atmosphere being at {174} the same time
56°, and that of the river 32°, of Fahrenheit's scale.</p>
<p>Wednesday, March 8th. The Big Elk, Big Eyes, and<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_281" id="Page_281"></a>[pg281]</span>
Wash-co-mo-ne-a visited us to-day on their way, with
their attendants, to the traders with jerked bison meat.
They presented us with five large pieces. The Big Elk,
principal Omawhaw chief, is much pitted with the smallpox,
and is of commanding presence. He speaks with
great emphasis, and remarkably distinct. He observed
that we must think them strange people to be thus constantly
wandering about during the cold of winter, instead
of remaining comfortably housed in their village; "But,"
said he, "our poverty and necessities compel us to do so in
pursuit of game; yet we sometimes venture forth for our
pleasure, as in the present instance, to visit the white
people, whom we are always delighted to see." Big Eyes
is a large and remarkably muscular man. His nose is
that of the European, the opposite to the Roman curve;
he is second chief of the Omawhaws.</p>
<p>The Omawhaw chiefs remained with us the greater part
of the following day, and presented us with eight more
pieces of jerked meat. We presented them in return with
some tobacco, &c. The Big Elk made us a considerable
harangue, with all the remarkable vivacity, fluency, and
nerve of Indian eloquence, in which he said that he would
address me by the title of father; "And you," said he, to
Mr. Dougherty, "whom I know so well, I will call brother.
The Indians around," said he, "who tell the white people
that they love them, speak falsely, as is proved by their
killing the white people; but my nation truly love you, they
have never stained their hands with the blood of a white
man, and this much cannot be said by any nation of this
land." He added a strong expression, that such was his
attachment to us, that he believed that he should, at a
future day, be a white man himself. <span class="xxpgn">
<a name="Page_282" id="Page_282"></a>[pg282]</span></p>
<p>{175} When they took their leave, we advised them not
to visit Camp Missouri, telling them what, in fact, they
had already been informed of, that many of the soldiers
were sick; (we did not wish them to observe the extent of
the malady, with which that camp was afflicted,) but Big
Elk remarked, that it had been his intention to go there,
and it was not fear that could prevent him; his life was at
the disposal of the great Wahconda only, and he could not
die before his time; "But," said he, "agreeably to your
request I certainly will not go."</p>
<p>Of all the objects which we exhibited to the view of the
chiefs, quicksilver (mercury) seemed to excite the most
surprise; they weighed the vessel, in which it was contained,
in their hands, dipped their fingers into it, and
were surprised at the resistance which it offered to the
immersion, and what appeared most singular was, that
they should be withdrawn without any appearance of
moisture upon them; that they might not be deceived they
repeated the experiment again and again. A couple of
iron nails were then thrown upon the mercury, and as
these did not sink to the bottom, they pressed them down
with their fingers; but finding that the nails constantly
arose again to the surface, the Big Elk returned the vessel
to me, saying, with a smile of pleasure strongly impressed
on his strongly marked countenance, that the fluid was
the Omawhaw's Wahconda.</p>
<p>The last load of stone, which was taken from the quarry
early in December last, was prevented from reaching
Camp Missouri by the floating ice; the boat was driven
ashore and abandoned. It was now observed floating
down the river, with a large quantity of drift ice; and,
when opposite our cantonment, was readily secured by
Major Ketchum, without having received any injury<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_283" id="Page_283"></a>[pg283]</span>
whatever.<a name="FNanchor_214" id="FNanchor_214"></a><a href="#Footnote_214" class="fnanchor">[202]</a> Major Ketchum, with a detachment of
men, has been engaged for two or three days past in cutting
out of the ice, three of the boats from our harbour.
These, together with {176} one, which is at Camp Missouri,
are intended to convey the sick from that camp down the
river to Fort Osage. Camp Missouri has been sickly,
from the commencement of winter; but its situation is at
this time truly deplorable. More than three hundred soldiers
are, or have been sick, and nearly one hundred have
died. This fatality is occasioned by the scurvy (scorbutus).
Individuals who are seized rarely recover, as
they cannot be furnished with the proper aliments; they
have no vegetables, fresh meat, nor antiscorbutics, so that
the patients grow daily worse, and entering the hospital is
considered by them as a certain passport to the grave.
Yet it is some consolation to reflect that all the science,
care, and attention of the healing art have been exerted
for the relief of the sufferers by Doctors Gale and Moore,
as far as their present insulated situation will admit. The
causes which have been productive of all this disease, are
not distinctly known, although there are many supposed
ones to which it has been imputed. But it was generally
remarked, that the hunters, who were much employed in
their avocation, and almost constantly absent from Camp
Missouri, escaped the malady.</p>
<p>On the 19th, Mr. Immel,<a name="FNanchor_215" id="FNanchor_215"></a><a href="#Footnote_215" class="fnanchor">[203]</a> of the Missouri Fur Company,<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_284" id="Page_284"></a>[pg284]</span>
returned from an expedition to the Sioux. During
his stay in the vicinity of the pseudo volcanoes, which
occur on the banks of the Missouri, a tremendous subterranean
explosion occurred, which much alarmed the Indians
as well as the whites; the concussion was succeeded
by a large volume of dense smoke from the aperture of
the volcano, by the sinking in of a portion of the hill in
the rear, and by the cracking of the ice in the river. Messrs.
Peale, Swift, and Dougherty departed in a periogue yesterday,
on their way to the Bowyer Creek to hunt.</p>
<p>An igneous meteor, or jack-o'-lantern, was seen on the
evening of the 20th, near our cantonment; it was described
to me as of the size of a double fist, {177} with a caudate
appendage, or tail, of the length of about two feet; it
emitted a light of the colour of the flame of burning sulphur;
it passed along the river shore nearly over the observer's
head, at but a very small elevation, nearly in a
right line, with an equable motion, about as rapid as the
flight of a bird, and with an audible sound like the blowing
of a moderate stream of air through a thicket; it was visible
about one half a minute, when it crossed the river, became
paler, and disappeared.</p>
<p>The waters of the Missouri have been as clear during the
winter as ordinary rivers; the earthy matter, which they
hold in suspension during the temperate and warm
weather, and which every person who views the river remarks
as characteristic of its waters, subsides as soon as
the wintry temperature occurs, but is again renewed in
the spring. They have been gradually more and more
turbid, these two or three days past. The ice in the river
broke up on the 29th ult., and entirely disappeared on
the 19th instant. <span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_285"
id="Page_285"></a>[pg285]</span></p>
<p>Great flights of geese, swans, ducks, brant, and cranes
have been passing up the river, at their usual migrating
altitude above the surface of the earth; but this migration
of these aquatic birds has nearly ceased.</p>
<p>April 5th. A war-party of Omawhaws arrived at
the trading house of the Missouri Fur Company. They
are one of three parties, which have been for ten days past
in pursuit of a war-party of thirteen Sauks who carried off
a number of horses from near the Omawhaw village.
They pursued the trail of the Sauks, until they lost it
nearly opposite to this place; they, nevertheless, continued
the pursuit in the direction which they supposed the
enemy had taken, but are now returning unsuccessful;
they say they are in hopes, that one of the other parties
may overtake them. It seems probable, that it was this
same {178} party of Sauks who fired upon a soldier on the
30th ult.</p>
<p>6th. The war-party mentioned yesterday visited us this
morning, on their way home. They danced for us, and
after receiving bread, buffaloe meat, and tobacco, departed
well pleased. In the afternoon, another war-party
of eleven Omawhaws, who had also been in pursuit of the
same Sauks, arrived. We were notified of their proximity
by hearing their war-song, and going out, we observed
them at a short distance arranged in a line, from the centre
of which were elevated two handsome streamers, which,
upon their approach, we found to be two long lances, to
which feathers of different colours, fancifully arranged,
were attached. The partizan advanced, and made us a
speech as usual, in which he gave an account of their adventures,
and concluded by praising the kindness of the
whites, their hospitality, and their greatness in arts and<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_286" id="Page_286"></a>[pg286]</span>
arms. This address being well understood to aim at
food and lodging, though neither of these were mentioned,
we supplied them with bison meat, bread, and maize, and
invited them to remain with us during the night to rest
themselves in comfort and safety. They immediately sat
down, and, the food being portioned out by one of the warriors,
they proceeded to eat with the appearance of such
appetites as convinced us that their fast had been of long
duration. In conversation during the evening the partizan
said, that they had followed a considerable trail, supposing
that the Sauks had taken that direction; that they
observed stakes stuck in the ground at certain distances,
and the trees <i>blazed</i> as far as they went upon that trail.
He inquired if we knew the reason of such marks; he was
then informed, that it was to indicate the course of a road
which was to be made in that direction, and that if he had
travelled far enough upon the trail he would have met with
towns of white people, who would have treated him well.
After musing some time, he {179} observed, that they had
travelled a good distance on that route, and having occasion
to deviate a short distance from it, they found when
they returned that a white man and three horses had
passed along during their absence; (this was Lieutenant
Fields, the express,) they immediately despatched two of
their young men back to follow him, and to learn if he had
met the fugitive Sauks; but they could not overtake him.
"We continued on," said Naugh-ken-ne (or the Left
Hand), "with all speed; but at length, being almost famished,
we were necessitated to halt and hunt; of course we
gave over the pursuit. Not wishing to return to our nation
without obtaining some trophy, we resolved to go
to Nishnebottona, in order to strike upon the Ioways,<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_287" id="Page_287"></a>[pg287]</span>
who, we had been informed, were at that place; but when
we arrived there, we had the mortification to learn that
they were gone; we must, therefore, return without these
poor young men having any opportunity to distinguish
themselves." "Did you not," we asked, "make peace
with the Ioways last season?" "Yes, it is true we made
a kind of peace with them, but you know they are bad
men; we do not like them; the whites do not like them;
perhaps it was a party of that nation, and not Sauks, that
stole our horses, and you know it was very hard to be
obliged, after all our difficulties and starvations, to
return to our people without either scalps or horses. We
wished to obtain some trophy that should repay us for our
toils." In the evening they sang for our amusement a
number of tunes, whilst two or three danced as well as
they could in our small chamber. A negro belonging to
the Fur Company coming in on an errand, they spoke of
him as the <i>black white man</i>, and one of them jokingly said,
he was a Wasabajinga, or little black bear.<a name="FNanchor_216" id="FNanchor_216"></a><a href="#Footnote_216" class="fnanchor">[204]</a></p>
<p>The Indians departed early on the 7th, with many
thanks for the attention they had received. Before they
went, they presented to us a wild cat, which {180} they had
shot, but we advised them to keep it to eat on the way
home, upon which they thanked us for it, as if they had
never owned it.</p>
<p>11th. We learn that a third war-party of Omawhaws,
who departed in pursuit of the Sauks before either of the
others, were met by a strong party of that nation, who were
on their way to the Omawhaw village; they however escaped
<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_288"
id="Page_288"></a>[pg288]</span>
from them with the loss of one man killed and several
wounded; the loss of the Sauks is not known. The
party speak highly of one of their number, a boy of twelve
years, who, at a critical juncture of the engagement, ran
up to several of the enemy and flashed his gun three times
at them; he escaped unhurt.</p>
<h2 title="Chapter X"><a name="CHAPTER_X" id="CHAPTER_X"></a>
<span class="smaller">{181}</span> CHAPTER X</h2>
<p class="center">From the notes of Mr. Say.<a
name="FNanchor_217" id="FNanchor_217"></a><a href="#Footnote_217"
class="fnanchor">[205]</a></p>
<p class="chaphead">Account of the Omawhaws—Their manners and customs,
and religious rites—Historical notices of Black
Bird, late principal chief.</p>
<p class="toclink"><a href="#CONTENTS_OF_VOLUME_XIV">toc</a></p>
<p>A great portion of the information contained in the
following pages, respecting the Missouri Indians, and particularly
the Omawhaws, was obtained from Mr. John
Dougherty, deputy Indian agent for the Missouri, who
had an excellent opportunity of making himself acquainted
with the natives, by residing for a time in the
Omawhaw village, and by visiting all the different nations
of this river.</p>
<p>This gentleman with great patience, and in the most
obliging manner, answered all the questions which I proposed
to him, relating to such points in their manners,
habits, opinions, and history, as we had no opportunity of
observing ourselves. And we have much to regret that it
is not in our power to present the reader with a biographical
sketch of this amiable and intrepid traveller.</p>
<p>The permanent Omawhaw village is situate on Omawhaw<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_289" id="Page_289"></a>[pg289]</span>
Creek, within two and a half miles of the Missouri
river, and about one hundred miles by water above Engineer
Cantonment, and seventy by land. It consists of
dirt lodges, similar to those of the Konzas already described.
Omawhaw creek takes its rise from the bluffs
in the rear of the village, and discharges into the river at
the distance of seven miles below. About two miles from
the town it dilates into a large pond, which is filled with
luxuriant {182} aquatic plants, amongst which the zizania
and nelumbium, are particularly worthy of note both for
their beauty and importance for economical purposes. A
fertile prairie, of the length of four miles by one mile and
three quarters wide, is outspread in front of the village,
and is bounded near the river by a narrow line of timber.</p>
<p>The inhabitants occupy their village not longer than
five months in the year. In April they arrive from their
hunting excursions, and in the month of May they attend
to their horticultural interests, and plant maize, beans,
pumpkins, and water-melons, besides which they cultivate
no other vegetable. They also at this season dress
the bison skins, which have been procured during the
winter hunt, for the traders, who generally appear for the
purpose of obtaining them. The young men, in the mean
time, are employed in hunting within the distance of seventy
or eighty miles around for beaver, otter, deer, musk-rat,
elk, &c.</p>
<p>When the trading and planting occupations of the people
are terminated, and provisions begin to fail them, which
occurs generally in June, the chiefs assemble a council for
the purpose of deliberating upon the further arrangements
necessary to be made. This assembly decrees a
feast to be prepared on a certain day, to which all the distinguished<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_290" id="Page_290"></a>[pg290]</span>
men of the nation are to be invited, and one of
their number is appointed to have it prepared in his own
lodge. On the return of this individual to his dwelling,
he petitions his squaws to have pity on him, and proceed
to clean and adjust the apartment, to spread the mats and
skins for seats, and to collect wood and bring water for
cooking. He requests them to provide three or four large
kettles, to prepare the maize, and to kill their fattest dog
for a feast. The squaws generally murmur at this last
proposition, being reluctant to sacrifice these animals,
which are so serviceable to them in carrying burdens, like
the dogs of the oberrating Tartars; but when they are informed
{183} of the honour that awaits them, of feasting
all the distinguished men, they undertake their duties with
pride and satisfaction.</p>
<p>When they have performed their part, the squaws give
notice to the husband, who then calls two or three old public
criers to his lodge; he invites them to be seated near him,
and after the ceremony of smoking, he addresses them in a
low voice, directing them to pass through the village, and
invite the individuals whom he names to them, to honour
him by their presence at the feast, which is now prepared,
"Speak in a loud voice," says he, "and tell them to bring
their bowls and spoons." The criers having thus received
their instructions, sally out together, and in concert sing
aloud as they pass in various directions through the village.
In this song of invitation, the names of all the elect are
mentioned. Having performed this duty, they return to
the lodge, and are soon followed by the chiefs and warriors.</p>
<p>The host seats himself in the back part of the
lodge facing the entrance, where he remains during the
ceremony. <span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_291"
id="Page_291"></a>[pg291]</span></p>
<p>If the host is invested with the dignity of chief, he directs
those who enter, where to seat themselves, so that
the chiefs may be arranged on one side, and the warriors
on the other; if he is a warrior, he seats the principal chief
of the village by his side, who whispers in his ear the situation
which those who enter ought to occupy; this intimation
is repeated aloud by the host.</p>
<p>When the guests are all arranged, the pipe is lighted, and
the indispensable ceremony of smoking succeeds.</p>
<p>The principal chief, Ongpatonga, then rises, and
extending his expanded hand towards each in succession,<a
name="FNanchor_218" id="FNanchor_218"></a><a href="#Footnote_218"
class="fnanchor">[206]</a> gives thanks to them individually by
name, for the honour {184} of their company, and requests their
patient attention to what he is about to say. He then proceeds
somewhat in the following manner. "Friends and relatives: we
are assembled here for the purpose of consulting respecting the
proper course to pursue in our next hunting excursion, or whether
the quantity of provisions at present on hand, will justify a
determination to remain here to weed our maize. If it be decided
to depart immediately, the subject to be then taken into view
will be the direction, extent, and object of our route; whether
it would be proper to ascend Running-Water creek, (Ne-bra-ra, or
Spreading water), or the Platte, (Ne-bres-kuh, or Flat water),
or hunt the bison between the sources of those two streams; or
whether we shall proceed farther, towards the black hills of the
south-west, in pursuit of wild horses, &c."</p>
<p>Having thus disclosed the business of the council,
he is frequently succeeded by an old chief, who thanks
him for his attention to their wants, and advises the
assembly to pay great attention to what he has said, as
he is a man of<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_292"
id="Page_292"></a>[pg292]</span> truth, of knowledge, and of
bravery; he further assures them, that they have ample cause to
return thanks to the great Wahconda or Master of life, for having
sent such a man amongst them.</p>
<p>The assembly then take the subject into consideration,
and after much conversation, determine upon a route,
which Ongpatonga proposed in his speech. This chief,
previous to the council, is careful to ascertain the opinions
and wishes of his people, and he speaks accordingly.</p>
<p>He sometimes, however, meets with opposition from persons
who propose other hunting grounds, but their discourses
are filled with compliments to his superior knowledge
and good sense.</p>
<p>The proceedings of the council are uniformly conducted
with the most perfect good order and decorum.</p>
<p>{185} Each speaker carefully abstains from militating
against the sensibility of any of his hearers, and uncourteous
expressions towards each other on these occasions,
are never heard. Generally at each pause of the speaker,
the audience testify their approbation aloud, by the interjection
<i>heh</i>; and as they believe that he has a just right to
his own opinions, however absurd they may appear to be,
and opposite to their own, the expression of them excites
no reprehension, and if they cannot approve, they do not
condemn, unless urged by necessity.</p>
<p>During the council, the criers remain seated near the
fire listening to the proceedings, and at the same time attending
to the culinary apparatus, as neither the squaws
nor the children are admitted.</p>
<p>When the food is sufficiently cooked, the criers remove
the kettles from the fire, and, at the proper time, one of
them takes up a portion of the soup in a spoon, and after<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_293" id="Page_293"></a>[pg293]</span>
presenting it towards each of the cardinal points with one
hand, whilst the other is elevated, and the palm extended,
he casts it into the ashes of the fire; a small piece of the
choice part of the meat is also sacrificed to the great Wahconda
with the same formality, and is doubtless intended
as an impetratory oblation.</p>
<p>They then serve out the food to the guests, placing the
best portions of it before the chiefs. Each individual on
the reception of his portion, returns his thanks to the host
in such respectful expressions as become his relative consequence,
as How-je-ne-ha—How-we-sun-guh—How-na-ga-ha,
&c.; thank you father—thank you younger
brother—thank you uncle, &c., after which they eat in
silence. The criers help themselves out of the kettles, but
are careful to leave a portion in those that are borrowed,
to compensate for their use.</p>
<p>The feast terminated, the ceremony of smoking succeeds,
after which, the business and enjoyments of the
council being concluded, the guests rise up in {186} succession,
and returning thanks to the host, pass out of the
lodge in an orderly manner, first the warriors and afterwards
the chiefs.</p>
<p>The criers now sing through the village in praise of the
host, thanking him before the people for his hospitality,
repeating also the names of the chiefs who were present,
and thanking them for their kindness to the old criers,
who, they say, are disqualified by age for any other occupations
than those of eating, smoking, and talking; they
also communicate to the people the resolutions of the
council.</p>
<p>The prospect of a journey is highly grateful to the
squaws, who lose no time in preparing for the day of departure,<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_294" id="Page_294"></a>[pg294]</span>
by actively and assiduously occupying themselves
in mending mockasins and other clothing, preparing their
pack-saddles and dog-sleds, and depositing in the earth,
for safe keeping, all the moveables which are not to be
transported with them on the journey.</p>
<p>The men in the mean time amuse themselves with hunting,
playing with the hoop and stick, cards, dancing, &c.;
whilst at night the young warriors and beaux are occupied
with affairs of gallantry, or contriving assignations.
The young men also adorn themselves with paint, and do
honour to chiefs and distinguished braves, by dancing in
their respective lodges.</p>
<p>The day assigned for their departure having arrived,
the squaws load their horses and dogs, and take as great
a weight upon their own backs as they can conveniently
transport, and, after having closed the entrances to their
several habitations, by placing a considerable quantity
of brushwood before them, the whole nation departs
from the village.</p>
<p>Those affluent chiefs and warriors who are the owners of
many horses, are enabled to mount their families on horseback,
but the greater portion {187} of the young men and
squaws are necessarily pedestrians.</p>
<p>Many of the latter, besides the heavy load upon their backs,
surmounted perhaps by an infant, lead a horse
with one hand, on the load of which another child is often
placed, and properly secured there in a sitting posture. In
the other hand they often bear a heavy staff of wood,
sharpened to a broad edge at one end for the purpose of
digging up the <i>Nu-ga-re</i>, or ground-apple, called by the
French <i>Pomme blanche</i>; a root resembling a long turnip,
about the size of a hen's egg, with a rough thick skin, and<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_295" id="Page_295"></a>[pg295]</span>
hard pith. It is sometimes eaten raw, and has a sweet
taste, but is rather dry; or it is dried in the sun, and pulverized;
in this state it furnishes the chief ingredient of an
excellent soup.</p>
<p>The men scatter about in every direction to reconnoitre
the country for enemies and game; but, notwithstanding
the constant activity of the hunters, the people are often
much necessitated for food previously to their arrival
within view of the bisons, an interval of fifteen or twenty
days.</p>
<p>When at length the highly welcome news is brought of
the proximity of a herd of these animals, the nation proceeds
to encamp at the nearest water-course.</p>
<p>The travelling huts, or as they are usually denominated,
skin lodges, are neatly folded up, and suspended to the
pack-saddle of the horse, for the purpose of transportation.
The poles intended to sustain it are at one extremity,
laid upon the neck of the horse, whilst the opposite
end trails upon the ground behind. When pitched, the
skin lodge is of a high conic form; they are comfortable,
effectually excluding the rain, and in cold weather a fire is
kindled in the centre, the smoke of which passes off
through the aperture in the top; on one side of this aperture
is a small triangular wing of skin, which serves for a
cover {188} in rainy weather, and during the rigors of
winter to regulate the ascent of the smoke. The doorway
is a mere opening in the skin, and closed when necessary
by the same material. They are often fancifully
ornamented on the exterior, with figures, in blue and red
paint, rudely executed, though sometimes depicted with
no small degree of taste.</p>
<p>The hunters, who are in advance of the main body on<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_296" id="Page_296"></a>[pg296]</span>
the march, resort to telegraphic signals, from an elevated
position, to convey to the people information respecting
their discoveries. If they see bisons, they throw up their
robes in a peculiar manner, as a signal for a halt; another
disposition of the robe intimates the proximity of an
enemy; and if one of their party has been killed, two of
the survivors communicate the intelligence by running
towards each other from a little distance, and on passing,
one of them casts himself upon the earth.</p>
<p>On perceiving these latter signals, the warriors of the
nation cast the burdens from the horses, and with their
martial weapons ride in full speed to meet them, exhibiting
more the appearance of a race, than an ordinary advance
to mortal combat.</p>
<p>The hunters, after making the signal for bisons, to
induce the people to halt and encamp, return as expeditiously
as possible, and on their approach are received with
some ceremony. The chiefs and magi are seated in front
of their people, puffing smoke from their pipes, and thanking
the Master of life, with such expressions as "How-wa-con-da,"
"Thanks Master of life,"—
"How-nin-e-shet-ta-wa-con-da-a-mah-pan-ne-nah-pa-e-wa-rat-a-cum-ba-ra."—
"Thank you, Master of life, here is smoke, I
am poor, hungry, and want to eat." The hunters draw
near to the chiefs and magi, and in a low tone of voice
inform them of the discovery of bisons. They are questioned
as to the number, and reply by holding up to the
view some small sticks in a horizontal position, {189} and
compare one herd at a stated distance with this stick, and
another with that, &c.</p>
<p>It is then the business of some old man or crier to
harangue the people, informing them of the discovery,<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_297" id="Page_297"></a>[pg297]</span>
requesting the squaws to keep in good heart, telling them
they have endured many hardships with fortitude, that
there is now a termination to their difficulties for the present,
and that on the morrow the men will go in pursuit of
the bisons, and without doubt bring them plenty of meat.</p>
<p>On all occasions of public rejoicings, festivals, dances,
or general hunts, a certain number of resolute warriors are
previously appointed, to preserve order, and keep the
peace. In token of their office they paint themselves entirely
black; usually wear the <i>crow</i>, and arm themselves
with a whip or war-club, with which they punish on the
spot those who misbehave, and are at once both judges
and executioners. Thus, at the bison hunts, they knock
down or flog those whose manœuvres tend to frighten the
game, before all are ready, or previously to their having
arrived at the proper point, from which to sally forth upon
them.</p>
<p>Four or five such officers, or soldiers, are appointed at
a council of the chiefs, held in the evening, to preserve
order amongst the hunters for the succeeding day.</p>
<p>On the following morning, all the men, excepting the
superannuated, depart early in pursuit of the favourite
game. They are generally mounted, armed with bows
and arrows. The soldiers of the day accompany the rapidly
moving cavalcade on foot, armed with war-clubs, and
the whole are preceded by a footman bearing a pipe.</p>
<p>On coming in sight of the herd, the hunters talk kindly
to their horses, applying to them the endearing names of
father, brother, uncle, &c.; they petition them not to fear
the bisons, but to run well, {190} and keep close to them,
but at the same time to avoid being gored.</p>
<p>The party having approached as near to the herd as they<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_298" id="Page_298"></a>[pg298]</span>
suppose the animals will permit, without taking alarm,
they halt, to give the pipe-bearer an opportunity to perform
the ceremony of smoking, which is considered necessary
to their success. He lights his pipe, and remains a
short time with his head inclined, and the stem of the pipe
extended towards the herd. He then smokes, and puffs
the smoke towards the bisons, towards the heavens, and
the earth, and finally to the cardinal points successively.
These last they distinguish by the terms <i>sunrise</i>, <i>sunset</i>,
<i>cold country</i>, and <i>warm country</i> or they designate them collectively,
by the phrase of the <i>four winds</i>, <i>Ta-da-sa-ga-to-ba</i>.</p>
<p>The ceremony of smoking being performed, the word
for starting is given by Ongpatonga. They immediately
separate into two bands, who pass in full speed to the
right and left, and perform a considerable circuit, with the
object of enclosing the herd, at a considerable interval,
between them.</p>
<p>They then close in upon the animals, and each man
endeavours to kill as many of them as his opportunity
permits.</p>
<p>It is upon this occasion that the Indians display their
horsemanship, and dexterity in archery. Whilst in full
run they discharge the arrow with an aim of much certainty,
so that it penetrates the body of the animal behind
the shoulder. If it should not bury itself so deeply as they
wish, they are often known to ride up to the enraged animal
and withdraw it. They observe the direction and depth
to which the arrow enters, in order to ascertain whether or
not the wound is mortal, of which they can judge with a
considerable degree of exactness; when a death-wound is
inflicted, the hunter raises a shout of exultation, to prevent<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_299" id="Page_299"></a>[pg299]</span>
others from pursuing the individual of which {191} he
considers himself certain. He then passes in pursuit of
another, and so on, until his quiver is exhausted, or the
game has passed beyond his further pursuit.</p>
<p>The force of the arrow, when discharged by a dexterous
and athletic Indian, is very great, and we were even credibly
informed, that under favourable circumstances, it
has been known to pass entirely through the body of a
bison, and actually to fly some distance, or fall to the
ground on the opposite side of the animal.</p>
<p>Notwithstanding the apparent confusion of this engagement,
and that the same animal is sometimes feathered
by arrows from different archers, before he is despatched,
or considered mortally wounded, yet as each man knows
his own arrows from all others, and can also estimate the
nature of the wound, whether it would produce a speedy
death to the animal, quarrels respecting the right of
property in the prey seldom occur, and it is consigned to
the more fortunate individual, whose weapon penetrated
the most vital part.</p>
<p>The chase having terminated, each Indian can trace
back his devious route to the starting-place, so as to recover
any small article he may have lost.</p>
<p>This surrounding chase the Omawhaws distinguish by
the name of Ta-wan-a-sa.</p>
<p>A fleet horse well trained to the hunt, runs at the proper
distance, with the reins thrown upon his neck, parallel
with the bison, turns as he turns, and does not cease to
exert his speed until the shoulder of the animal is presented,
and the fatal arrow is implanted there. He then complies
with the motion of his rider, who leans to one side, in order
to direct his course to another bison. Such horses as these<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_300" id="Page_300"></a>[pg300]</span>
are reserved by their owners exclusively for the chase, and
are but rarely subjected to the drudgery of carrying
burdens.</p>
<p>When the herd has escaped, and those that are {192}
only wounded or disabled are secured, the hunters proceed
to flay and cut up the slain.</p>
<p>Formerly, when the chiefs possessed a greater share of
power than they now do, one of them would advance
towards a carcass which struck his fancy, either from its
magnitude or fatness, and the rightful owner would relinquish
it to him without a word; but they now seldom
put the generosity of the people thus to the test.</p>
<p>Some individual will usually offer his bison to the medicine,
either voluntarily, or at the request of a chief, and on
the succeeding day it is cooked, and all the distinguished
men are invited to partake of the feast.</p>
<p>In the operation of butchering, a considerable knowledge
of the anatomical structure of the animal is exhibited,
in laying open the muscles properly, and extending them
out into the widest and most entire surfaces, by a judicious
dissection.</p>
<p>If they are much pressed by hunger, they in the first
place open the flank in order to obtain the kidneys, which
are then eaten without waiting for the tardy process of
culinary preparation.</p>
<p>A hunter who has been unsuccessful, assists some one
in skinning and cutting up, after which he thrusts his
knife in the part he wishes for his own share, and it is
given to him.</p>
<p>If the squaws should arrive, the knife is resigned to them,
whilst the men retire a short distance from the scene, to smoke
and rest themselves. <span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_301"
id="Page_301"></a>[pg301]</span></p>
<p>The slaughtered animals are chiefly, and almost exclusively,
cows selected from the herd; the bulls being eatable
only in the months of May and June.</p>
<p>Every eatable part of the animal is carried to the camp
and preserved, excepting the feet and the head; but the
brains are taken from the skull for the purpose of dressing
the skin, or converting it into Indian leather. Those
skins which are obtained during this season are known by
the name <i>Summer skins</i>, and {193} are used in the construction
of their skin lodges, and for their personal cloathing
for summer wear.</p>
<p>Three squaws will transport all the pieces of the carcass
of a bison, excepting the skin, to the camp, if the latter is
at any moderate distance; and it is their province to prepare
the meat, &c. for keeping.</p>
<p>The vertebræ are comminuted by means of stone-axes,
similar to those which are not unfrequently ploughed up
out of the earth in the Atlantic states; the fragments are
then boiled, and the rich fat or medulla which rises, is
carefully skimmed off and put up in bladders for future
use. The muscular coating of the stomach is dried; the
smaller intestines are cleaned and inverted, so as to include
the fat that had covered their exterior surface, and then
dried; the larger intestines, after being cleaned, are stuffed
with meat, and cooked for present eating.</p>
<p>The meat, with the exception of that of the shoulders,
or hump, as it is called, is then dissected with much skill
into large thin slices, and dried in the sun, or jerked over a
slow fire on a low scaffold.</p>
<p>The bones of the thighs, to which a small quantity of
flesh is left adhering, are placed before the fire until the
meat is sufficiently roasted, when they are broken, and the<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_302" id="Page_302"></a>[pg302]</span>
meat and marrow afford a most delicious repast. These,
together with the tongue and hump, are esteemed the best
parts of the animals.</p>
<p>The meat, in its dried state, is closely condensed together
into quadrangular packages, each of a suitable size,
to attach conveniently to one side of the packsaddle of a
horse. The dried intestines are interwoven together into
the form of mats, and tied up into packages of the same
form and size. They then proceed to <i>cache</i>, or conceal
in the earth these acquisitions, after which they continue
onward in pursuit of other herds of their favourite animal.</p>
<p>The nation return towards their village in the month of
August, having visited for a short time the {194} Pawnee
villages, for the purpose of trading their guns for horses.</p>
<p>They are sometimes so successful in their expedition,
in the accumulation of meat, as to be obliged to make
double trips, returning about mid-day for half the whole
quantity which was left in the morning. When within
two or three days journey of their own village, runners are
despatched to it, charged with the duty of ascertaining the
safety of it, and the state of the maize.</p>
<p>On the return of the nation, which is generally early in
September, a different kind of employment awaits the
ever-industrious squaws. The property buried in the
earth is to be taken up and arranged in the lodges, which
are cleaned out and put in order. The weeds which, during
their absence, had grown up in every direction through
the village, are cut down and removed.</p>
<p>A sufficient quantity of sweet corn is next to be prepared
for present and future use. Whilst the maize is yet in
the milk or soft state, and the grains have nearly attained
to their full size, it is collected and boiled on the cob; but<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_303" id="Page_303"></a>[pg303]</span>
the poor who have no kettles, place the ear, sufficiently
guarded by its husk, in the hot embers until properly
cooked; the maize is then dried, shelled from the cob,
again exposed to the sun, and afterwards packed away for
keeping, in neat leathern sacks. The grain prepared in
this manner has a shrivelled appearance, and a sweet
taste, whence its name. It may be boiled at any season
of the year with nearly as much facility as the recent
grain, and has much the same taste.</p>
<p>They also pound it into a kind of small hominy, which
when boiled into a thick mush, with a proper proportion
of the smaller entrails and jerked meat, is held in much
estimation.</p>
<p>When the maize which remains on the stalk is fully ripe,
it is gathered, shelled, dried, and also packed away in
leathern sacks. They sometimes {195} prepare this hard
corn for eating, by the process of leying it, or boiling it in
a ley of wood-ashes for the space of an hour or two, which
divests it of the hard exterior skin; after which it is well
washed and rinsed. It may then be readily boiled to an
eatable softness, and affords a palatable food.</p>
<p>The hard ripe maize is also broken into small pieces
between two stones, one or two grains at a time, the larger
stone being placed on a skin, that the flying fragments
may not be lost. This coarse meal is boiled into a mush
called Wa-na-de. It is sometimes parched previously to
being pounded, and the mush prepared from this description
of meal is distinguished by the term Wa-jun-ga.
With each of these two dishes, a portion of the small prepared
intestines of the bison, called Ta-she-ba, are boiled,
to render the food more sapid.</p>
<p>Their pumpkins, Wat-tong, are boiled, or rather<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_304" id="Page_304"></a>[pg304]</span>
steamed, as the pot is filled with them cut in slices, with
the addition of a very small quantity of water. But the
greater number of these vegetables are cut into long slips,
and, as well as the smaller intestines and stomach of the
bison, cut in pieces, are interwoven as before mentioned
into a kind of network.</p>
<p>A singular description of food is made use of by some
tribes of the Snake Indians, consisting chiefly, and sometimes
wholly of a species of ant, (formica, Lin.) which is
very abundant in the region in which they roam. The
squaws go in the cool of the morning to the hillocks of
these active insects, knowing that then they are assembled
together in the greatest numbers. Uncovering the little
mounds to a certain depth, the squaws scoop them up in
their hands, and put them into a bag prepared for the purpose.
When a sufficient number are obtained, they repair
to the water, and cleanse the mass from all the dirt and
small pieces of wood collected with them. The ants are
then placed upon a flat stone, and by the pressure of a
rolling-pin, are crushed together into a dense {196} mass,
and rolled out like pastry. Of this substance a soup is
prepared, which is relished by the Indians, but is not at
all to the taste of white men. Whether or not this species
of ant is analogous to the vachacos, which Humboldt
speaks of, as furnishing food to the Indians of the Rio
Negro and the Guainia, we have no opportunity of ascertaining.</p>
<p>We could not learn that any one of the nations of the
Missouri Indians are accused, even by their enemies, of
eating human flesh from choice, or for the gratification of
a horrible luxury: starvation alone can induce them to eat
of it. An Ioway Indian, however, having killed an Osage,<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_305" id="Page_305"></a>[pg305]</span>
compelled some children of his own nation to eat of the
uncooked flesh of the thigh of his victim. And a Sioux of
the St. Peter's dried some of the flesh of a Chippeway
whom he had killed, and presented it to some white men,
who ate it without discovering the imposition.</p>
<p>The Indians, like the Hottentots, Negroes, and monkeys,
eat the lice which they detect in each others heads. The
squaws search for these parasites; and we have often seen
them thus occupied with activity, earnestness, and much
success. One of them, who was engaged in combing the
head of a white man, was asked why she did not eat the
vermin; she replied, that "white men's lice are not good."</p>
<p>Although the bison cow produces a rich milk, yet the
Indians make no use of that of the individuals they kill in
hunting.</p>
<p>During these active employments, which the squaws
cheerfully and even emulously engage in, the occupations
of the men are chiefly those of amusement or recreation.</p>
<p>Numbers of the young warriors are very officious in
offering their services to the squaws, as protectors during
their field labours; and from the opportunities they enjoy
of making love to their charge in the privacy of high weeds,
it is extremely common for them to form permanent attachments
to the wives {197} of their neighbours, and an elopement
to another nation is the consequence.</p>
<p>The men devote a portion of their time to card-playing.
Various are the games which they practise, of which one
is called <i>Matrimony</i>; but others are peculiar to themselves:
the following is one, to which they seem to be particularly
devoted.</p>
<p>The players seat themselves around a bison robe spread
on the ground, and each individual deposits in the middle<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_306" id="Page_306"></a>[pg306]</span>
the articles he intends to stake, such as vermilion, beads,
knives, blankets, &c., without any attention to the circumstance
of equalizing its value with the deposits made
by his companions.</p>
<p>Four small sticks are then laid upon the robe, and the
cards are shuffled, cut, and two are given to each player,
after which the trump is turned. The hands are then
played, and whoever gains two tricks takes one of the
sticks. If two persons make each a trick, they play together
until one loses his trick, when the other takes a
stick. The cards are again dealt, and the process is continued
until all the sticks are taken, If four persons have
each a stick, they continue to play, to the exclusion of the
unsuccessful gamesters. When a player wins two sticks,
four cards are dealt to him, that he may take his choice of
them. If a player wins three sticks, six cards are dealt to
him, and should he take the fourth stick he wins the stake.</p>
<p>They are so inveterately attached to the heinous vice of
gambling, that they are known to squander in this way
every thing they possess, with the solitary exception of
their habitation, which, however, is regarded more as the
property of the woman than of the man.</p>
<p>A game, to which the squaws are very much devoted,
is called by the Omawhaws <i>Kon-se-ke-da</i>, or plumstone-shooting.
It bears some resemblance to that of dice. Five
plumstones are provided, three of which are marked on one
side only with a greater {198} or smaller number of black
dots or lines, and two of them are marked on both sides.
They are, however, sometimes made of bone, of a rounded
and flattened form, somewhat like an orbicular button-mould;
the dots in this case being impressed. A wide
dish, and a certain number of small sticks, by the way of<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_307" id="Page_307"></a>[pg307]</span>
counters, are also provided. Any number of persons may
play at this game, and agreeably to the number engaged
in it, is the quantity of sticks or counters. The plumstones
or bones are placed in the dish, and a throw is made
by simply jolting the vessel against the ground to cause the
dice to rebound, and they are counted as they lie when
they fall. The party plays round for the first throw.
Whoever gains all the sticks in the course of the game, wins
the stake. The throws succeed each other with so much
rapidity, that we vainly endeavoured to observe their laws
of computation, which it was the sole business of an assistant
to attend to.</p>
<p>The squaws sometimes become so highly interested in
this game as to neglect their food and ordinary occupations,
sitting for a whole day, and perhaps night also,
solely intent upon it, until the losers have nothing more
to stake.</p>
<p>Having now a plentiful store of provisions, they content
themselves in their village until the latter part of October,
when, without the formality of a council or other ceremony,
they again depart from the village, and move in
separate parties to various situations on both sides of the
Missouri, and its tributaries, as far down as the Platte.</p>
<p>Their primary object at this time, is to obtain, on credit
from the traders, various articles indispensably necessary
to their fall, winter, and spring hunts: such as guns, particularly
those of <i>Mackinaw</i>, powder, ball, and flints;
beaver-traps, brass, tin, and camp-kettles; knives, hoes,
squaw-axes, and tomahawks.</p>
<p>Having obtained these implements, they go in pursuit
{199} of deer, or apply themselves to trapping for beaver
and otter. Elk was sometime since an object of pursuit,<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_308" id="Page_308"></a>[pg308]</span>
but these animals are now rather rare in the Omawhaw
territories.</p>
<p>This hunt continues until towards the close of December,
and during the rigours of the season they experience
an alternation of abundance and scarcity of food.
The men are very much exposed to the cold, and, in trapping,
to the water. They are also frequently obliged to
carry heavy burdens of game from considerable distances.</p>
<p>The assiduous hunter often returns to his temporary
residence in the evening, after unsuccessful exertions continued
the live-long day: he is hungry, cold, and fatigued;
with his mockasins, perhaps, frozen on his feet. His
faithful squaw may be unable to relieve his hunger, but
she seats herself by his side near the little fire, and after
having disposed of his hunting apparatus, she rubs his
mockasins and leggings, and pulls them off, that he may
be comfortable; she then gives him water to drink, and
his pipe to smoke. His children assemble about him, and
he takes one of them upon his knee, and proceeds to relate
to it the adventures of the day, that his squaw may be informed
of them. "I have been active all day, but the
Master of life has prevented me from killing any game;
but never despond, my children and your mother, I may
be fortunate to-morrow." After some time he retires to
rest, but the wife remains to dry his clothing. He often
sings until midnight, and on the morrow he again sallies
forth before the dawn, and may soon return with a superabundance
of food. Such is the life of the Indian hunter,
and such the privations and pleasures to which his being
is habitually incident.</p>
<p>The squaws, in addition to their occupation of flaying
the animals which their husbands entrap, and of preparing<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_309" id="Page_309"></a>[pg309]</span>
and preserving the skins, are often necessitated to dig the
pomme de terre, <i>noo</i>; and to {200} scratch the groundpea,
<i>himbaringa</i>, (the same word is also applied to the bean,)
from beneath the surface of the soil. This vegetable is
produced on the roots of the apios tuberosa, they also
frequently find it hoarded up in the quantity of a peck or
more in the brumal retreats of the field mouse, (mus
agrarius, Var?) for its winter store. The seeds of the
nelumbium luteum, analogous to the sacred bean of the
Brahmins, also contribute to their sustenance; these are
distinguished by the name Te-row-a, or bison-beaver, [<i>te</i>,
bison; and <i>row-a</i>, beaver; in the Oto dialect,] and when
roasted are much esteemed. The root of this plant is also
an article of food during the privations of this portion of
the year; it is either roasted or boiled; and is prepared for
keeping by boiling, after which it is cut up in small pieces
and dried: in taste it is somewhat similar to the sweet
potato.</p>
<p>With the skins of the animals obtained during this hunt,
the natives again repair to the traders to compensate them
for the articles which they had obtained on credit. But
owing to the intrigues of rival traders, the Indians are,
with, however, numerous exceptions, not remarkable for
any great degree of punctuality in making their returns to
cancel their debts. Many obtain credit from one trader,
and barter their peltries with another, to the great injury
of the first.</p>
<p>Like genuine traders, the Omawhaws endeavour, by
various subterfuges, to make the best of their market.
An artful fellow will assure a trader that he has a number
of skins, but that he does not wish to bring them forward,
until he assembles a still greater number; but, in the meantime,<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_310" id="Page_310"></a>[pg310]</span>
he must have a keg of whiskey, otherwise he will
barter his skins with another trader. Another knave owes
his trader, perhaps, twenty skins; but in consequence of
the unlucky occurrence of many circumstances, which he
proceeds to particularize, he can at present pay but half
that number, and the other ten, which he {201} brings
with him, he wishes to trade for other articles of merchandize.
The trader submits to the imposition thus
practised, rather than lose their custom; and is thus deservedly
punished for his own deceptive proceedings
with respect to his rivals, and for the habit of practising
on the ignorance of the natives, in which many of
them freely indulge.</p>
<p>Thus the Missouri traders are repaid for hardly more
than half the value of the merchandize which they credit;
but should they obtain peltries for one-third of the amount,
they clear their cost and charges.</p>
<p>After having discharged their debts wholly, or in part,
the Indians exchange the remainder of their skins, for
strouding for breech-clouts and petticoats, blankets,
wampum, guns, powder and ball, kettles, vermilion, verdigrise,
mockasin-awls, fire-steels, looking-glasses, knives,
chiefs' coats, calico, ornamented brass finger-rings, arm-bands
of silver, wristbands of the same metal, ear-wheels
and bobs, small cylinders for the hair, breast brooches,
and other silver ornaments for the head; black and blue
handkerchiefs, buttons, tin cups, pans and dishes, scarlet
cloth, &c.</p>
<p>The man is the active agent in this barter, but he avails
himself of the advice of his squaw, and often submits to
her dictation.</p>
<p>Each nation of Indians practises every art they can devise,<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_311" id="Page_311"></a>[pg311]</span>
to prevent white traders from trafficking with their
neighbours, in order to engross as much as possible of the
trade themselves, and to be the carriers at second hand to
the others. For this purpose they sometimes intrigue
deeply, and resort to artful expedients. "You do not
treat your traders as we do," said a cunning Oto to some
Pawnees; "we dictate to them the rate of exchanges; and
if they persist in refusing to comply, we use force to compel
them; we flog them, and by these means we obtain our
articles at a much lower rate than you do:"—thus endeavouring
to induce those people {202} to banish traders
from their village by ill treatment.</p>
<p>In trade, the largest sized beaver skin is called by the
French a <i>plus</i>, and constitutes the chief standard of value.
Thus as many of any other description of skins as are considered
of equal value with this large beaver skin, are collectively
denominated a <i>plus</i>; and the number of deer,
raccoon, otter, &c. that shall respectively constitute a plus,
is settled between the parties, previously to the commencement
of the exchanges.</p>
<p>Brass kettles are usually exchanged for beaver skins,
pound for pound, which weight of the latter is worth about
three dollars at St. Louis.</p>
<p>The beaver skins are embodied into neat packs by the
traders, each weighing one hundred pounds, and consisting
of seventy or eighty skins, according to their magnitude.</p>
<p>The business of this hunt having terminated with the
year, the Omawhaws return to their village, in order to
procure a supply of maize from their places of concealment,
after which they continue their journey in pursuit of bisons.</p>
<p>On this occasion they divide into two parties, one of
which ascends the Missouri, and the other the Elkhorn<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_312" id="Page_312"></a>[pg312]</span>
rivers. The party which discovers a herd, gives notice of
the fact to the other party, by an especial messenger, and
invites them to join in the pursuit of it.</p>
<p>This expedition continues until the month of April, when
they return to their village, as before stated, loaded with
provisions.</p>
<p>It is during this expedition that they procure all the
skins, of which the bison robes of commerce are made;
the animals at this season having their perfect winter dress,
the hair and wool of which are long and dense.</p>
<p>The process of preparing the hides for the traders falls
to the lot of the squaws. Whilst in the green {203} state,
they are stretched and dried as soon as possible; and, on
the return of the nation to the village, they are gradually
dressed during the intervals of other occupations. The
hide is extended upon the ground; and with an instrument
resembling an adze, used in the manner of our carpenters,
the adherent portions of dried flesh are removed, and the
skin rendered much thinner and lighter than before. The
surface is then plastered over with the brains or liver of
the animal, which have been carefully retained for the
purpose, and the warm broth of meat is also poured over
it. The whole is then dried, after which it is again subjected
to the action of the brains and broth, then stretched
in a frame, and while still wet, scraped with pumice-stone,
sharp stones, or hoes, until perfectly dry. Should it not
yet be sufficiently soft, it is subjected to friction, by pulling
it backwards and forwards over a twisted sinew. This
generally terminates the operation. On the commencement
of the process, the hides are almost invariably each
divided longitudinally into two parts, for the convenience
of manipulation, and when finished, they are again united<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_313" id="Page_313"></a>[pg313]</span>
by sewing with sinew. This seam is almost always present
in the bison robe; but one of the largest that we have seen,
is used as a covering for one of our humble beds at this
cantonment, and has been dressed entire, being entirely
destitute of a seam.</p>
<p>The brain of an animal is sufficient to dress its skin, and
some persons make two-thirds of it suffice for that purpose.</p>
<p>The skins of the elk, deer, and antelopes are dressed in
the same manner; but those that are intended to form the
covering of their travelling lodges, for leggings, and summer
mockasins, &c. have the adze applied to the hairy side
in dressing, instead of the flesh side.</p>
<p>Great numbers of these robes are annually purchased by
the traders; and Mr. Lisa assured us, that {204} he once
transported fifteen thousand of them to St. Louis in one
year.</p>
<p>The Indian form of government is not sufficiently powerful
to restrain the young warriors from the commission of
many excesses and outrages, which continually involve the
nations in protracted wars; and, however well disposed the
chiefs may be, and desirous to maintain the most amicable
deportment towards the white people, they have not the
power to enable them to compel those restless spirits,
greedy of martial distinction, to an observance of that
pacific demeanour which their precepts inculcate.</p>
<p>To accomplish this object, much depends upon the
course pursued by the agents of the United States. If the
character of these is dignified, energetic, and fearless, they
will certainly meet that respect from the natives which is
due to the importance of their missions. But, on the contrary,
if their conduct is deficient in promptness, energy,
and decision; if their measures are paralyzed by personal<span
class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_314" id="Page_314"></a>[pg314]</span>
fear of the desperadoes, whom they must necessarily encounter
in the execution of their duties, their counsels will
fall unheeded in the assemblies which they address.<a
name="FNanchor_219" id="FNanchor_219"></a><a href="#Footnote_219"
class="fnanchor">[207]</a></p>
<p>The power of some of the former rulers of the Omawhaws
is said to have been almost absolute. That of the
celebrated Black Bird,<a name="FNanchor_221" id="FNanchor_221"></a><a
href="#Footnote_221" class="fnanchor">[208]</a> Wash-ing-guh-sah-ba, seems to
have been actually so, and was retained undiminished
until his death, which occurred in the year 1800, of the
smallpox, which then almost desolated his nation. Agreeably
to his orders, he was interred in a sitting posture, on
his favourite horse, upon the summit of a high bluff of the
bank of the Missouri, "that he might continue to see the
white people ascending the river to trade with his nation."<span
class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_318" id="Page_318"></a>[pg318]</span>
A mound was raised over his remains, on which food was
regularly placed for many years afterwards; but this rite
has been discontinued, and the staff, that {205} on its
summit supported a white flag, has no longer existence.</p>
<p>This chief appears to have possessed extraordinary mental
abilities, but he resorted to the most nefarious means
to establish firmly the supremacy of his power. He gained
the reputation of the greatest of medicine men; and his
medicine, which was no other than arsenic itself, that had
been furnished him for the purpose, by the villany of the
traders, was secretly administered to his enemies or rivals.
Those persons who offended him, or counteracted his
views, were thus removed agreeably to his predictions,
and all opposition silenced, apparently by the operation
of his potent spells.</p>
<p>Many were the victims to his unprincipled ambition,
and the nation stood in awe of him, as of the supreme
arbiter of their fate.</p>
<p>With all his enormities he was favourable to the traders;
and although he compelled them to yield to him one half
of their goods, yet he commanded his people to purchase
the remainder at double prices, that the trader might still
be a gainer.</p>
<p>He delighted in the display of his power, and, on one
occasion, during a national hunt, accompanied by a white
man, they arrived on the bank of a fine flowing stream,
and although all were parched with thirst, no one but the
white man was permitted to taste of the water. As the
chief thought proper to give no reason for this severe punishment,
it seemed to be the result of caprice.</p>
<p>One inferior, but distinguished chief, called Little Bow,
at length opposed his power. This man was a warrior of<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_319" id="Page_319"></a>[pg319]</span>
high renown, and so popular in the nation, that it was remarked
of him, that he enjoyed the confidence and best
wishes of the people, whilst his rival reigned in terror.
Such an opponent could not be brooked, and the Black
Bird endeavoured to destroy him.</p>
<p>{206} On one occasion the Little Bow returned to his
lodge, after the absence of a few days on an excursion.
His wife placed before him his accustomed food; but the
wariness of the Indian character led him to observe some
peculiarity in her behaviour, which assured him that all
was not right; he questioned her concerning the food she
had set before him, and the appearance of her countenance,
and her replies, so much increased his suspicions, that he
compelled her to eat the contents of the bowl. She then
confessed that the Black Bird had induced her to mingle
with the food a portion of his terrible medicine, in order
to destroy him. She fell a victim to the machination of
the Black Bird, who was thus disappointed of his object.</p>
<p>With a band of nearly two hundred followers, the Little
Bow finally seceded from the nation, and established a
separate village on the Missouri, where they remained
until the death of the tyrant.</p>
<p>On one occasion, the Black Bird seems to have been
touched by remorse, or perhaps by penitence, in his career
of enormity. One of his squaws having been guilty of
some trifling offence, he drew his knife, in a paroxysm
of rage, and stabbed her to the heart. After viewing her
dead body a few moments, he seated himself near it, and
covering his face with his robe, he remained immovable
for three days, without taking any nourishment. His
people vainly petitioned that he would "have pity on
them," and unveil his face; he was deaf to all their remonstrances,<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_320" id="Page_320"></a>[pg320]</span>
and the opinion prevailed that he intended to die
through starvation. A little child was at length brought in
by its parent, who gently raised the leg of the chief, and
placed the neck of the child beneath his foot. The murderer
then arose, harangued his people, and betook himself
to his ordinary occupations.</p>
<p>Towards the latter part of his life, he became very {207}
corpulent, the consequence of indolence and repletion. He
was transported by carriers, on a bison robe, to the
various feasts to which he was daily invited; and should
the messenger find him asleep, they dared not to awaken
him by a noise or by shaking, but by respectfully tickling
his nose with a straw.</p>
<p>The successor of Black Bird was the Big Rabbit, Mush-shinga.
He possessed considerable authority, but he
lived only a few years to enjoy it.</p>
<p>Ta-so-ne, or the White Cow, the hereditary successor of
Mush-shinga, being governed by an unambitious wife, remained
inactive; whilst the next important man, Ong-pa-ton-ga,
or the Big Elk, more distinguished for his vigorous
intellect than for any martial qualities, attained to the
supreme dignity, which he still retains.</p>
<p>The power of this amiable and intelligent chief was very
considerable during the early part of his administration;
and although not so absolute as his predecessors, yet it is
believed that he could then inflict the punishment of death
upon an individual with his own hands, with impunity.
Five years ago he informed a stranger, in the presence of
his people, that he could compel any one of them to lie
down before him, that he might place his foot upon his
neck; this assertion was assented to by his hearers.</p>
<p>But the influence of the grand chief of the
Omawhaws<span class="xxpgn"><a name="Page_321"
id="Page_321"></a>[pg321]</span> has very much diminished, in
consequence of the improper distribution of medals by the whites;
so that, although one of the most intelligent leaders that the
nation has probably ever had, yet he could hardly do more at
this time than inflict a blow for the most serious offence.
Still, however, he maintains a supremacy over six or seven
medalled rivals, in despite of the intrigues of the traders.<a
name="FNanchor_222" id="FNanchor_222"></a><a href="#Footnote_222"
class="fnanchor">[209]</a> He does not now attempt to coerce any
of his people, but substitutes advice and persuasion.</p>
<p>{208} By his influence and pacific councils, he has
rendered the Omawhaws a peaceful people, who limit
their warfare to the punishing of war-parties that depredate
on them or their possessions; and he exultingly
affirms, that his hands are unstained with the blood of
white men.</p>
<div class="footnotesfirst">
<div class="fakeh3">Footnotes to Preface:</div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_1" id="Footnote_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1">
<span class="label">[1]</span></a> See statement of the objects of the expedition by Secretary Calhoun, in
<cite>American State Papers</cite>, "Military Affairs," ii, p. 33.</p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_2" id="Footnote_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2"><span
class="label">[2]</span></a>
See quotations from contemporary sources in Chittenden, <cite>American Fur
Trade</cite>, ii, p. 562 <i>et seq.</i> Chapter ii of that volume gives a good account of the
Yellowstone expedition.</p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_3" id="Footnote_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_3"><span
class="label">[3]</span></a>
See Preliminary Notice to the Philadelphia edition (1823), which we supply
in its proper place in the present reprint—it having been omitted from the
London edition which we follow.</p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_4" id="Footnote_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_4"><span
class="label">[4]</span></a>
Henry Atkinson of North Carolina, became captain in the Third Infantry
in 1808. His subsequent record, as given in Powell, <cite>List of Officers of the
U. S. Army</cite>, is as follows: "Col. I. G. 25 April, 1813. Col. 4th Inf., 15 April,
1814. Trans. to 37th Inf., 22 April, 1814. Trans. to 6th Inf., 17 May, 1815.
Brig. Gen. 13 May, 1820. Col. A. G., 1 June, 1821 which he declined, and on
16 Aug., 1821, was assigned as Col. 6th Inf. Retained as Col., 21 Aug., with
Bvt. rank of Brig. Gen., 13 May, 1820. Died 14 June, 1842."</p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_5" id="Footnote_5"></a><a href="#FNanchor_5"><span
class="label">[5]</span></a> Atkinson had contrived a device similar to the paddle-wheel of a steamer,
for propelling keel-boats, but operated by men. It was afterwards used successfully.</p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_6" id="Footnote_6"></a><a href="#FNanchor_6"><span
class="label">[6]</span></a> See the description of this boat given in
note 145, <i>post</i>.</p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_7" id="Footnote_7"></a><a
href="#FNanchor_7"><span class="label">[7]</span></a>
For biographical sketches see footnote 1 of text.</p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_8" id="Footnote_8"></a><a href="#FNanchor_8"><span
class="label">[8]</span></a>
There are in the two editions differences in phraseology, and each contains
a few paragraphs omitted from the other. As a rule these differences
are of minor importance; where important, the footnotes to the reprint give
both readings. The London edition contains a complete copy of Long's
report in place of mere extracts.</p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_9" id="Footnote_9"></a><a href="#FNanchor_9"><span
class="label">[9]</span></a> The expedition was the most extensive which
had been sent out by the
government, up to that time; and, as the <cite>North American Review</cite> remarked,
was "in many respects much better qualified and fitted out than Lewis and
Clark." Nevertheless, in commenting on the sentence in the Preliminary
Notice, in which James explains the scarcity of means for the expedition as
due to the state of the national finances, the same journal exclaims: "Detestable
parsimony! The only country but one in the world, that has not been reduced
to an avowed or virtual bankruptcy; the country, which has grown and is growing
in wealth and prosperity beyond any other and beyond all other nations,
too poor to pay a few gentlemen and soldiers for exploring its mighty rivers,
and taking possession of the empires, which Providence has called it to govern!"</p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_10" id="Footnote_10"></a><a
href="#FNanchor_10"><span class="label">[10]</span></a>
Chittenden, <cite>American Fur Trade</cite>, ii, p. 578.</p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_11" id="Footnote_11"></a><a
href="#FNanchor_11"><span class="label">[11]</span></a> We have, for convenience, signed James's name to all notes reprinted by
us from the original issue; it should be understood, however, that several members
of the party contributed these notes—some of them being indicated therein,
and others not.</p>
</div></div>
<div class="footnotes">
<div class="fakeh3">Footnotes to Chapter I:</div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_12" id="Footnote_12"></a><a href="#FNanchor_12"><span
class="label">[001]</span></a> John Biddle, a Pennsylvanian, entered the army July 6, 1812, as second
lieutenant in the 3d Artillery. In March following he became first lieutenant,
and in the succeeding October captain in the 42d Infantry. He was transferred
to the artillery corps in 1815, made major and assistant inspector-general in
1817, and disbanded in 1821. He was in Long's party only during the first
season.</p>
<p>William Baldwin (1779-1819), also of Pennsylvania, was the son of a minister
of the Society of Friends. He studied medicine in the University of Pennsylvania,
taking his degree in 1807. Meanwhile he had become interested in
botany, and upon locating at Wilmington, Delaware, to practice his profession,
studied assiduously the flora of the vicinity. In 1811 ill-health compelled him
to remove to Georgia, but during the War of 1812-15 he served as a surgeon in
the army. In 1817 he was a member of the special commission sent by the
federal government to investigate the affairs of the Spanish-American colonies,
then struggling for independence. Some of Dr. Baldwin's writings were published
in the <cite>Transactions</cite> of the American Philosophical Society and <cite>Silliman's
Journal</cite>. He died while upon the present expedition, and a further sketch will
be found in the text, <i>post</i>.</p>
<p>Thomas Say (1787-1834) was also the son of a Pennsylvania Friend, Benjamin
Say, a physician, and one of the "fighting Quakers" of the Revolution.
Thomas was one of the founders of the Academy of Natural Sciences at Philadelphia,
and before joining Long's expedition had taken part in a scientific
exploration of the coasts of Georgia and Florida. He accompanied Major
Long upon his later expedition up St. Peter's River. In 1825 he joined the
colony under Robert Dale Owen, at New Harmony, Indiana. His principal
work was <cite>American Entomology</cite> (Philadelphia, 3 vols., 1824-28). He is said to
have discovered more new species of insects than any predecessor, many of
them being discovered during the present exploration.</p>
<p>Augustus Edward Jessup was born at New Richmond, Massachusetts, in
1789, and although known chiefly as a prosperous Philadelphia business man,
was much interested in science, being an early member of the Philadelphia
Academy. He remained with the expedition during the first season only.</p>
<p>Titian Ramsey Peale (1800-1885) came of a family which has produced a
remarkable number of artists, the most notable being a brother, Rembrandt.
His father, an uncle, another brother, and three cousins achieved more or less
distinction in that field. Like his father and brother, T. R. Peale divided his
attention between art and natural science. He was an officer of the Philadelphia
Academy, and author of <cite>Mammalia and Ornithology</cite> (1848). From 1838
to 1842 he was a member of Lieutenant Charles Wilkes's exploring expedition
to the South Sea; during the years 1849-72 he was an examiner in the patent
office.</p>
<p>The events of the life of Samuel Seymour are now not known.</p>
<p>James D. Graham (1799-1865), a Virginian, was a West-Pointer of the class
of 1817. When ordered on Long's expedition he was first lieutenant in the
artillery corps. From 1822-29 was on topographical duty in Vermont and
elsewhere. This experience was followed by a number of years of railroad
surveying, and he also took part in nearly all the federal boundary surveys of the
period, serving on the northeastern, Canadian, and Mexican boundary commissions.
During the later years of his life he was in charge of harbor improvements
on the Atlantic coast and Great Lakes, and while engaged in the latter
work discovered the existence of lake tides. At the time of his death he was
colonel in the corps of engineers.</p>
<p>William Henry Swift, of Massachusetts, was of mixed Puritan and Huguenot
stock. His father was an army surgeon, and a brother, General Joseph
Gardner Swift, was the first graduate of West Point. William himself entered
the military academy when but thirteen years of age (1813), and as his class
graduated during his absence on Long's expedition, he was, under date of
July 1, 1819, promoted to a lieutenancy in the artillery corps. The map of the
country explored by the expedition was prepared by him. His later career was
notable—he was engaged especially on coast improvements, fortifications, railroads,
and canals; to him more than to any one else is attributed the success of
the Illinois and Michigan canal. His collection of papers relative to the latter
was, upon his death, presented to the Chicago Historical Society.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_13" id="Footnote_13"></a><a href="#FNanchor_13"><span
class="label">[002]</span></a>
Allegheny arsenal is on the Pittsburg side of Allegheny River, opposite
the upper end of McCullough's Island. The grounds lie between Thirty-ninth
and Fortieth streets. The site was purchased in 1814; a wall inclosing the
grounds was completed in 1829. The arsenal was for many years used in the
manufacture of war materials, a force of twelve hundred men being employed
there during the War of Secession. Since 1868 it has been used as a military
post, and as a quartermaster's depot. There were recently (1904) discovered
there the principal documents relating to the equipment of the Lewis and Clark
expedition, which was largely outfitted therefrom.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_14" id="Footnote_14"></a><a
href="#FNanchor_14"><span class="label">[003]</span></a>
Caprimulgus vociferus.—<span class="smcap">James.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_15" id="Footnote_15"></a><a href="#FNanchor_15"><span
class="label">[004]</span></a> <i>Triton lateralis.</i> <span
class="smcap">Say.</span>—<i>Body</i> and extremity above brown, with irregular
black spots; <i>tail</i> much compressed, subacutely edged above and beneath, lanceolate;
a black vitta from the nostrils passes through the eyes, and is dilated on
the sides, and becomes obsolete on the tail; a vertebral indented line, from the
neck to the origin of the caudal carina, more faintly indented on the head;
<i>head</i> somewhat rectilineary attenuated from the anterior branchia, to the vicinity
of the nostril, and truncate or subemarginate before; <i>nostrils</i> minute; <i>eyes</i> very
small, whitish, crossed with the lateral line of the head; <i>beneath</i> pale flesh-colour;
<i>chin</i> and <i>jaws</i> to the branchia, and <i>tail</i> from the posterior feet, with the
exception of the areola of the anus, coloured like the back; <i>mouth</i> moderate,
angles beneath the eyes; <i>lips</i> covering the jaws freely, inferior lip with a duplicature
each side, which is white and covered by the superior lip; <i>tongue</i> free,
fleshy, rounded, extending beyond the angles of the mouth; <i>teeth</i>, lower jaw in a
single row, obtusely conic, small, rather distant; a few smaller ones near the
angle, elevated on a slightly prominent portion of the jaw; <i>superior jaw</i>, with a
double series of teeth similar to the others, but rather smaller, an unarmed depression
corresponding with the elevation in the lower jaw, and a few elevated
teeth nearer the angle; <i>throat</i> with a duplicated cuticle; branchiæ permanent.
Legs short, weak, four-toed.</p>
<p>Total length 10 inches, from the tip of the nose to the vent, 6½ inches.</p>
<p>We caught this animal with the hook and line in the neighbourhood of
Pittsburgh, but it is by no means so common there as the Salamandra Alleghaniensis
of Michaux, or young alligator.</p>
<p>The colour above is in reality pale, but it is rendered of a brownish appearance
by the very numerous confluent points of that colour, which nearly cover
the surface of the body; branchia bright red; peduncles colour of the body.
Daudin informs us, that Schneider, in his history of Amphibia, describes an
animal very similar to this, found in Lake Champlain, and which Daudin supposes
to be the larva of <i>Triton Alleghaniensis</i>; Daudin, however, is of the opinion,
that the hind feet were mutilated, from the circumstance of their having
only four toes.</p>
<p>The late Professor B. S. Barton had heard of this animal, and from the
account he received, was led to regard it as a Siren.</p>
<p>Finally, Dr. Mitchell has autoptically described the animal, in the 4th vol.
of Silliman's Journal, as a Proteus.</p>
<p>Not supposing the <i>lateralis</i> to belong, strictly speaking, to either of these
genera, and with a view to ascertain its real nature, we obtained permission
from the Academy of Natural Science, to open a specimen belonging to their
cabinet, and which was brought from the Ohio by Mr. J. Speakman. The
result corresponded with our most confident expectations, showing that the
number of its vertebræ is greatly inferior to that of the Proteus, and corresponding
with that of the Tritons; and that the pseudo ribs were in an entire series,
somewhat superior in proportional length and perfection of form to those of the
Proteus, and resembling those of the Triton. It has, therefore, a far more close
alliance with the genus Triton, than with any other yet established.</p>
<p>Several animals have been described, to which it is more closely related by
the character of the persistent branchia, than it is to the well-known types of the
genus, of which the branchia disappear at the age of puberty. Of such animals
the following may be instanced:</p>
<p>The <i>Axolotl</i> of Mexico. Siren pisciformis of Shaw. Gen. Zool.</p>
<p>The <i>Tetradactyla</i> of Lacepede in the Ann. des Mus. vol. x.</p>
<p>The <i>Siren Operculée</i> of Beauvois in Philos. Trans. of Phila. vol. iv.</p>
<p>And possibly also, the <i>Proteus Neo Cæsariensis</i> of Professor Green.—Jour.
A. N. S. vol. i.</p>
<p>These four or five species might with propriety be separated from the genus to
which they are referable in the present state of the system, and placed in a separate
genus, the external characters of which will be the same as those of Triton,
with the exception of the persistent branchia. Its proper station will doubtless
be intermediate between Triton and Proteus, but far more closely related to the
former.</p>
<p>It may be proper to mention in this place, that the generic name <i>Triton</i>, was
applied by Laurenti to the Newts, long before Montfort made use of it in Conchology
to designate the war conch of the ancient Romans, and of the present
inhabitants of Madison's Island.</p>
<p>We are indebted to Dr. Richard Harlan, for the following anatomical observations,
on this singular animal.</p>
<p>Alveolar margins of the maxillæ serrated, the spiculæ pointing backwards
towards the œsophagus. The œsophagus very large, like that of the serpents,
gradually expanding as it descends to form the stomach, which again contracts
at the commencement of the intestinal tube; the lining membrane of the œsophagus
and stomach, thrown into longitudinal folds, which were continued
throughout the intestines; which tube undergoes several enlargements in its
course, giving it a sacculated appearance similar to the alimentary canal of the
alligator; in the animal under consideration, they form several convolutions
previous to their termination into the cloaca; the stomach contained an earth
worm. The mesentery transparent, displaying a number of very large lacteals,
which, in the present instance, were filled with coagulated chyle. Length of
the intestines 10 inches. The ovary is of considerable size, of an oblong figure,
lying close to the vertebræ, and opening by a straight duct into the posterior
part of the cloaca. <i>Liver</i> very large, and apparently (but not certainly) discharged
its contents into the stomach. <i>Lungs</i> consist of two long membranous
bags, which run the whole length of the abdomen, anteriorly to the stomach
and intestines; the opening of the larynx scarcely large enough to admit a pin's
head; the lungs resemble two long air-bags, more than a true pulmonary apparatus;
the cartilaginous laminæ of the branchia, three in number, attached
superiorly to the integuments over the cervical vertebræ, converging together
beneath or anteriorly, and are attached to a cartilage answering to the os
hyoides; the heart, which was extremely small, consisted apparently of one
auricle and one ventricle, the aorta soon bifurcated, sending one branch to each
pulmonary apparatus to be intimately ramified upon the branchia, resembling
so far the circulation of fishes, and differing from the amphibia, in which there
is either a double or mixed circulation.</p>
<p>Olfactory apparatus similar to that of fishes, viz. a small aperture near the
extremity of the snout leads into a cavity or <i>cul de sac</i>, lined by a delicate membrane,
plentifully supplied by the fibrillæ of two slender olfactory nerves, which
go off from the anterior end of each lobe of the cerebrum. The brain is of an
oblong figure, the cerebrum is formed of two lobes, the cerebellum of one lobe
situate directly posterior, not much thicker than the medulla oblongata. The
optic nerves, which were large in proportion to the organs of vision, took their
origin in a very unusual manner. On either side of the medulla oblongata, is
given off a large nerve, which proceeds forwards and outwards, and soon after
it passes outside of the cavity of the cranium, it divides into two branches, the
smaller goes to the eye, the larger is distributed to the superior maxilla. The
eye itself is small, and the lens which was coagulated by the spirits, is about half
the size of a pin's-head, and of the texture of the lens of a fish when boiled.</p>
<p>The number of vertebræ from the atlas to the last lumbar, is exactly nineteen;
to the transverse processes of all of them (after the two first) is attached,
by a movable articulation, a small slender spicular of bone, or rib-like process,
about one-eighth of an inch in length, which at the same time, they give origin
to the large muscles that move the body, offer no obstruction to the lateral
curvatures of the animal when in motion, but as to appearance or function
are not to be considered as ribs. The number of vertebræ from the first sacral
to the last caudal, is from twenty to thirty-five; they become exceedingly small
towards the end of the tail; on the back part of the œsophagus, exterior to the
cavity of the cranium, is found on each side, a calcareous concretion, similar
to that in the head of the shark.—<span class="smcap">James.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_16" id="Footnote_16"></a><a href="#FNanchor_16"><span
class="label">[005]</span></a> Maclure.—<span class="smcap">James.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_17" id="Footnote_17"></a><a href="#FNanchor_17"><span
class="label">[006]</span></a> Geological Survey of Rensselaer county, p. 11.—<span
class="smcap">James.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_18" id="Footnote_18"></a><a href="#FNanchor_18"><span
class="label">[007]</span></a>
When central Pennsylvania began to seek an outlet for her population,
the fertility of the soil produced by the disintegration of the limestone flooring
of the northeast-and-southwest valleys of the mountains, and the barriers to
Western migration imposed by the parallel ridges, directed most of the pioneers
southwestward.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_19" id="Footnote_19"></a><a href="#FNanchor_19"><span
class="label">[008]</span></a>
See Humboldt's Personal Narrative, vol. v. p. 46. Also St. Pierre's Paul
and Virginia.—<span class="smcap">James.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_20" id="Footnote_20"></a><a href="#FNanchor_20"><span class="label">[009]</span></a> The great coal field of which that of western Pennsylvania is a part, is eight
hundred miles in length and one hundred and eighty in width. Besides Pennsylvania,
it includes southeastern Ohio, the western part of Maryland, most of
West Virginia, portions of Kentucky and Tennessee, and the northern end of
Alabama. In Pennsylvania, the main field does not extend farther north than
a central east-and-west line, but several great projections reach almost to the
northern boundary. East of the Alleghenies the deposits are anthracite, while
the bituminous fields occupy the southwestern section of the state.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_21" id="Footnote_21"></a><a href="#FNanchor_21"><span class="label">[010]</span></a> The uses of petroleum have been known from time immemorial; but the
quantities laboriously gathered from springs like those here described were
economically insignificant. The importance of the industry dates from the
discovery, in 1858, that vast quantities of oil could be obtained by drilling wells.
The excitement which ensued was comparable to that caused by finding gold
in California. Among United States exports, petroleum products now rank
near the top of the column.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_22" id="Footnote_22"></a><a href="#FNanchor_22"><span
class="label">[011]</span></a> James implies that the Onondaga salt deposits are in the Carboniferous
system. Such deposits, however, occur in almost every geological system,
from Silurian to Recent, and the New York areas are found in the Silurian;
the Kanawha salt district is Carboniferous. The Onondaga springs were known
to Jesuit missionaries as early as 1646, and soon after were utilized in making
salt for the Indian trade. The existence of salt licks and springs west of the
mountains was an important factor in the settlement of the trans-Allegheny
country. The pioneers could not have ventured so far from the coast without
a native supply of this necessity.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_23" id="Footnote_23"></a><a href="#FNanchor_23"><span class="label">[012]</span></a> So-called gas springs were known to settlers long before any attempt was
made to utilize the product; about 1821, burners were first devised by which it
was made to serve for lighting purposes. For several years after the beginning
of the oil industry, gas was generally considered as a worthless and troublesome
by-product, and not many wells were drilled for it until after 1870. The
pressure of the gas is sometimes enormous—as much as three hundred and
fifty pounds to the square inch has been noted. Natural gas consists essentially
of carburetted hydrogen.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_24" id="Footnote_24"></a><a href="#FNanchor_24"><span class="label">[013]</span></a> Olean is situated at the head of navigation of the Allegheny, at the mouth
of Olean Creek, in Cattaraugus County, New York. The first settlers came
prior to 1805. It was the southern terminus of the Genesee Valley canal (begun
in 1836), until in the fifties when that waterway was extended to the Pennsylvania
line. The growth of Olean has been rapid since the inception of the oil
industry; it now being one of the most important storage and shipping points
in the oil fields.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_25" id="Footnote_25"></a><a href="#FNanchor_25"><span
class="label">[014]</span></a>
For sketch of Wheeling, see André Michaux's <cite>Travels</cite>, in our
volume iii, note 15.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_26" id="Footnote_26"></a><a href="#FNanchor_26"><span class="label">[015]</span></a> For note on national road, see Harris's <cite>Journal</cite>, in our volume iii, note
45.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_27" id="Footnote_27"></a><a href="#FNanchor_27"><span class="label">[016]</span></a> Charleston, the seat of Kanawha County, West Virginia, is situated on
the Great Kanawha, about fifty miles above its mouth. The site was included
in a grant made (1772) by Lord Dunmore, royal governor of Virginia, to Thomas
Bullitt. In 1786 Bullitt transferred his claim to George Clendenin, who was the
first settler on the spot; he built Clendenin's fort in 1786 or 1787.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_28" id="Footnote_28"></a><a href="#FNanchor_28"><span class="label">[017]</span></a> <i>April</i> 3d. Dentaria laciniata, Lamium amplexicaule, Draba verna, Poa
anua, Alsine media, Houstonia cerulea, Saxifraga virginiensis.</p>
<p>4th. Anemone hepatica, <i>Hepatica triloba of Pursh</i>. Flowers varying from
blue to white. Alnus serulata, Carpinus Americanus, Satyrium repens, root
perennial.</p>
<p>9th. Collected in flower from the south-west side of the Ohio, Sanguinaria
canadensis, Hydrocotile bipinnata; root small and round, with small tubers
attached to the fibre like radicles, flowers white. Poa brevi-folia.</p>
<p>13th. Glehoma hederacea; this plant covers not only the low grounds, but
the wildest hills, particularly in northern exposures. Is it native?</p>
<p>24th. Pulmonaria Virginica: this is a predominant plant on the islands, as
well as along the shores of the Alleghany on both sides. Epigæa repens, Phlox
divaricata.</p>
<p>25th. Corydalis cucullaria, Trillium erectum, flowers varying from dark
purple to white. Anemone thalictroides, Carex oligocarpa, Gnaphalium plantagineum,
Potentilla sarmentosa, Obolaria virginica, Acer saccharinum, and A.
dasycarpum, still flowering. Also the Celtis occidentalis, Ulmus Americana,
and Planera aquatica, past.</p>
<p>27th. Veronica peregrina, and Ranunculus celeratus; both common in the
wildest situations and apparently native.</p>
<p>28th. Stellaria pubera, Turritis lævigata, Arabis lyrata, Viola pubescens,
Ranunculus hirsutus, Thalictum dioicum, Cercis canadensis, Cerastium vulgatum.</p>
<p>30th. Dentaria diphylla, Trillium sesile, Mitella diphylla, Delphinium tricorne,
Arabis thaliana, Caulophillum thalictroides.</p>
<p><i>May</i> 1st. Carpinus Americanus, Vicia cracca, Ranunculus abortivus, Saxifraga
Pennsylvanica, Uvularia grandiflora, <i>Ph.</i></p>
<p>3d. Geranium maculatum. Apple-tree flowering. Veronica officinalis.
<i>Dr. Baldwin's</i> Diary.—<span class="smcap">James.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_29" id="Footnote_29"></a><a
href="#FNanchor_29"><span class="label">[018]</span></a> For
Point Pleasant and the battle fought there, see Thwaites and
Kellogg, <cite>Documentary History of Lord Dunmore's War</cite>
(Madison, Wis., 1905); Croghan's <cite>Journals</cite>, in our
volume i, note 101; and Bradbury's <cite>Travels</cite>, in our
volume v, note 156. Chief Logan was not present at this battle.
The full text of his famous speech is given in Jefferson's "Notes
on Virginia;" Ford, <cite>Writings of Thomas Jefferson</cite>
(New York, 1894), iii, p. 156; Roosevelt, <cite>Winning of the
West</cite> (New York, 1889), i, p. 237. It has long ranked as one
of the great masterpieces of Indian oratory; but its genuineness
was attacked by Luther Martin, of Maryland, and others. A summary
of the evidence pro and con is given in Brantz, <i>Tah-Gah-Jute;
or Logan and Cresap</i> (Albany, 1867), appendix No. 2. It is now
generally conceded that it was delivered by Logan substantially as
we have it.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_30" id="Footnote_30"></a><a href="#FNanchor_30"><span
class="label">[019]</span></a> For sketch of Maysville, see André Michaux's
<cite>Travels</cite>, in our volume iii,
note 23.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_31" id="Footnote_31"></a><a href="#FNanchor_31"><span class="label">[020]</span></a> Washington, four miles southwest of Maysville, was founded in 1786, and
was an important town in the early days of Kentucky. It was for some time
the seat of Mason County.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_32" id="Footnote_32"></a><a href="#FNanchor_32"><span
class="label">[021]</span></a> For the early history of Cincinnati, see
Cuming's <cite>Tour</cite>, in our volume iv,
note 166.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_33" id="Footnote_33"></a><a href="#FNanchor_33"><span class="label">[022]</span></a> For sketches of Glen and Drake, see Nuttall's <cite>Journal</cite>, in our volume
xiii, note 35.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_34" id="Footnote_34"></a><a href="#FNanchor_34"><span
class="label">[023]</span></a> Drake's Picture of Cincinnati, page 64. To that work, Cranmer's [Cramer's]
"Navigator," published at Pittsburgh in 1814, and Gilleland's "Ohio and
Mississippi Pilot," we refer our readers for very minute, and in general very
accurate, accounts of the country along the Ohio.—<span class="smcap">James.</span></p>
<p>
<i>Comment by Ed.</i> This area, known to geologists as the "Cincinnati anticline,"
is co-extensive with the fertile blue grass lands. It consists essentially
of an island of Ordovician (Lower Silurian) limestone, surrounded by the later
systems. The Ordovician system is especially characterized by mollusca of
the cephalopod class, to which <i>Orthoceras</i> belongs, while the Ammonites do
not appear below the Devonian.</p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_35" id="Footnote_35"></a><a href="#FNanchor_35"><span
class="label">[024]</span></a> Cincinnati College, the forerunner of Cincinnati University, grew out of
a school established in 1814 on the model of the new English system of Lancaster
and Bell. The college was chartered in 1815. Possibly the reference
is to the recently-established medical college, for which see Nuttall's <cite>Journal</cite>,
in our volume xiii, note 35.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_36" id="Footnote_36"></a><a href="#FNanchor_36"><span
class="label">[025]</span></a> Population by census of 1820, 9,642; of 1830,
24,831.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_37" id="Footnote_37"></a><a href="#FNanchor_37"><span
class="label">[026]</span></a> The Cincinnati mounds are now obliterated. A good description of them,
with diagram, is given in <cite>Smithsonian Contributions to Knowledge</cite> (Washington,
1852), iii, art. vii.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_38" id="Footnote_38"></a><a href="#FNanchor_38"><span
class="label">[027]</span></a> Voy. a l' ouest des monts Alleghany, 1804. p. 93.—<span
class="smcap">James.</span></p>
<p>
<i>Comment by Ed.</i> See F. A. Michaux's <cite>Travels</cite>, in our volume iii, p. 175.</p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_39" id="Footnote_39"></a><a href="#FNanchor_39"><span
class="label">[028]</span></a> Pers. Nar. vol. i. p. 357. Philadelphia Edition.—<span
class="smcap">James.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_40" id="Footnote_40"></a><a href="#FNanchor_40"><span class="label">[029]</span></a> Salt's Abyssinia, p. 49. Amer. Edit.—<span class="smcap">James.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_41" id="Footnote_41"></a><a href="#FNanchor_41"><span class="label">[030]</span></a> The cotton-wood-tree is of very rapid growth. It has been ascertained
that one individual, in the term of twenty-one years, attained the height of one
hundred and eight feet, and nine inches, and the diameter of twenty and an
half inches, exclusive of the bark. <cite>Barton's</cite> Supp. Med. and Phys. Jour. p. 71.—<span class="smcap">James.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_42" id="Footnote_42"></a><a href="#FNanchor_42"><span class="label">[031]</span></a> Sir James Edward Smith (1759-1828), founder and first president of the
Linnæan Society (1788).—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_43" id="Footnote_43"></a><a href="#FNanchor_43"><span class="label">[032]</span></a> Charles Schultz, Jr., was the author of <cite>Travels on an inland voyage
through the states of New York, Pennsylvania, Virginia, Ohio, Kentucky, and
Tennessee, and through the territories of Indiana, Louisiana, Mississippi, and
New Orleans; performed in the years 1807 and 1808</cite> (New York, 1810).—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_44" id="Footnote_44"></a><a href="#FNanchor_44"><span class="label">[033]</span></a> On Louisville and the Falls of the Ohio, see Croghan's <cite>Journals</cite>, in our
volume i, note 106.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_45" id="Footnote_45"></a><a href="#FNanchor_45"><span class="label">[034]</span></a> For sketch of Shippingsport, see Cuming's <cite>Tour</cite>, in our volume iv, note
171.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_46" id="Footnote_46"></a><a href="#FNanchor_46"><span class="label">[035]</span></a> For the history of the canal at the Falls of the Ohio, see Nuttall's <cite>Journal</cite>,
in our volume xiii, note 40.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_47" id="Footnote_47"></a><a href="#FNanchor_47"><span class="label">[036]</span></a> On Clarksville see André Michaux's <cite>Travels</cite>, in our volume iii, note
123.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_48" id="Footnote_48"></a><a href="#FNanchor_48"><span class="label">[037]</span></a> New Albany, founded in 1813, is just below Louisville, in Floyd County,
Indiana.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_49" id="Footnote_49"></a><a href="#FNanchor_49"><span class="label">[038]</span></a> Corn Island was the site of the first settlement at Louisville. George Rogers
Clark built a fort on the island in the spring of 1778, to protect his supplies.
The twenty families who had followed him to Kentucky established themselves
at the lower end, where the land was most elevated, and during the summer
raised the crop of corn from which it is said the island derived its name. It
stood just above the present Louisville-Albany bridge, in the elbow of the stream;
in Clark's time it had an area of at least seven acres, but it has now been almost
entirely obliterated both by the erosion of the stream and the operations of a
neighboring cement mill which has used the island as a quarry.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_50" id="Footnote_50"></a><a href="#FNanchor_50"><span class="label">[039]</span></a> Jeffersonville, laid out in 1802, is opposite Louisville, in Clark County,
Indiana.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_51" id="Footnote_51"></a><a href="#FNanchor_51"><span class="label">[040]</span></a> The same name is applied locally to the hills which extend nearly fifty
miles to the northward of the river.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_52" id="Footnote_52"></a><a href="#FNanchor_52"><span class="label">[041]</span></a> Volney.—<span class="smcap">James.</span></p>
<p> <i>Comment by Ed.</i> Constantin François Chassebœuf Boisgirais,
Comte de Volney, the French traveller and author, member of
the brilliant group which included Holbach, Madame Helvetius,
Voltaire, and the encyclopædists, the correspondent of Franklin
and the friend of Bonaparte, travelled extensively in the interior
of America during the years 1795 to 1799, and after his return to
France published an account of his observations under the title,
<cite>Tableau du Climat et du Sol des Etats-Unis d'Amérique</cite>
(Paris, 1803). A translation was published in Philadelphia the
succeeding year.</p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_53" id="Footnote_53"></a><a
href="#FNanchor_53"><span class="label">[042]</span></a> The
Indiana coal fields are now known to embrace an area of about
seven thousand square miles, chiefly in the southwest quarter of
the state.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div></div>
<div class="footnotes">
<div class="fakeh3">Footnotes to Chapter II:</div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_54" id="Footnote_54"></a><a href="#FNanchor_54"><span class="label">[043]</span></a> Observations were made, at Shippingsport, to ascertain the rate of going
of our chronometer, the latitude of the place, and for other purposes; according
to these, the Falls are in 38° 15′ 23″ N.— <span class="smcap">James.</span></p>
<p>
<i>Comment by Ed.</i> The latitude is 38° 15′ 8″.</p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_55" id="Footnote_55"></a><a
href="#FNanchor_55"><span class="label">[044]</span></a> Page 108.—<span class="smcap">James.</span></p>
<p><i>Comment by Ed.</i> Miguel Venegas, a native of Mexico, was born in 1680,
joined the Jesuit order in 1700, and after several years' service as professor of
Latin, rhetoric, and theology, went out as a missionary to the Indians. His
chief work was, <cite>Noticia de la California y su Conquista temporal y espiritual
hasta el tiempo presente</cite> (Madrid, 3 vols., 1757). Its importance as a contemporary
account of the native tribes and mission stations of California is attested
by the fact that translations were promptly made into English, French, and
Dutch. The English edition is entitled <cite>Natural and Civil History of California</cite>
(London, 2 vols., 1759).</p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_56" id="Footnote_56"></a><a href="#FNanchor_56"><span class="label">[045]</span></a> For historical importance of the Wabash River and origin of the name,
see Croghan's <cite>Journals</cite>, in our volume i, note 107; for sketch of the site of Shawneetown,
see <cite>ibid.</cite>, note 108.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_57" id="Footnote_57"></a><a href="#FNanchor_57"><span class="label">[046]</span></a> Testudo geographica of Leseuer.—<span class="smcap">James.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_58" id="Footnote_58"></a><a href="#FNanchor_58"><span class="label">[047]</span></a> Usually called Cave-in-Rock. For additional facts relative to its history,
see Cuming's <cite>Tour</cite>, in our volume iv, note 180.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_59" id="Footnote_59"></a><a href="#FNanchor_59"><span class="label">[048]</span></a> <i>Nitrate of Potash.</i>—This salt occurs in most of the caves in the western
states and territories. It is found in efflorescences and incrustations frequently
combined with nitrate of lime. Its colour is grayish or yellowish white. The
manufacture of nitre, in the numerous caves in Kentucky, is conducted as follows:
The earths containing the nitrates of lime and potash are lixiviated; the
lixivium is afterwards passed through the ashes of wood, by the alkali of which
the nitrate of lime is decomposed. If the earths, after having been lixiviated,
are replaced in the caves, they again become impregnated with the same salts.</p>
<p>One bushel of earth commonly yields from one to four pounds of nitre.
The process by which nature supplies the consumption of this important article
has not yet been discovered.</p>
<p>
<i>Muriate of Soda.</i>—In the United States, common salt has been usually found
in solution combined with the sulphates of lime, magnesia, and soda, and with
sulphuretted hydrogen gas. The springs yielding the greatest quantity of salt,
are those of the Kenhawa, and Little Sandy rivers, the United States' Salines
near Shawaneetown, Illinois, Boon's Saline, near Franklin, Missouri, and Lockhart's
on the Le Mine river.</p>
<p>The Kenhawa salt-works supply about thirty thousand bushels of salt per
annum. The rocks about these springs belong to the secondary formation, and
are limestone, variegated sandstone, and bituminous shale: we were informed
that two hundred and fifty gallons of this water yield one bushel of salt. At
the Salines of the Little Sandy, ten thousand bushels are manufactured yearly.
The waters, like those of the Kenhawa, hold in solution muriate and sulphate of
soda, sulphate of lime, and probably a small portion of sulphate of magnesia.
Limestone and sandstone are the only rocks to be met with in the neighbourhood.
The United States' salines, near Shawaneetown, produce at present about a hundred
and thirty thousand bushels of salt per annum; they formerly yielded
more than two hundred thousand in the same time. There are now seven
furnaces in operation: the water is procured from three wells, two of which are
rented by Major I. Taylor. At these works the salt water formerly issued from
the earth at the surface. A well of sixteen feet deep brought the workmen to a
spring, which now discharges sixteen gallons of water per minute. Two hundred
and fifty gallons yield fifty pounds of salt. About one thousand yards to
the east of this well is a basin, or hollow, one hundred and thirty-five feet in
diameter. The soil in and about it is intimately blended with fragments of
earthen ware.</p>
<p>In the middle of this basin a well has been sunk, which affords a more concentrated
brine than that before mentioned; one hundred and ten gallons yielding
fifty pounds of salt.</p>
<p>In digging this well, the first fourteen feet was through a light earth mixed
with ashes and fragments of earthen ware: the remaining fourteen through a bed
of clay, deeply coloured with oxyde of iron, and containing fragments of pottery.
The clay has something the appearance of having been subjected to the action
of fire. At the eastern side of the basin appears to have been a drain for the
purpose of conveying away the superabundant water. In this drain, about
four feet below the surface of the earth, is a layer of charcoal about six inches
deep. The stones in the vicinity appear as if they had been burnt. Four
miles west of this point, a well has been sunk sixty feet through the following
beds.</p>
<p>First—— twenty feet of tenacious blue clay, at the bottom of which they came
to a small spring of salt water.</p>
<p>Second—— another bed of clay, of a similar character, twenty-five feet
thick.</p>
<p>Third—— a bed of quicksand, about ten feet deep; in which they met with a
large vein of salt water.</p>
<p>Bones of the mammoth, and other animals, were found both in the clay and
sand. The original reservation at these salines comprised ninety-two thousand
one hundred and sixty acres of woodland, and was transferred from the United
States to the state of Illinois, at the time of the admission of the latter into the
union. The rents amount to ten thousand dollars per annum.</p>
<p><i>Nitrate of Lime</i> is found in the calcareous caverns of
Kentucky, accompanying nitrate of potash, with which it is
intimately blended in the earth, on the floors of the caves:
it is also sometimes found in delicate accicular crystals,
shooting up from the walls and floors of the caverns.—<span
class="smcap">James.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_60" id="Footnote_60"></a><a href="#FNanchor_60"><span class="label">[049]</span></a> Smithland is now the seat of Livingston County. The deserted settlement
three miles below the mouth of Cumberland River was laid out about
1800 by one Coxe; upon the failure of his plans, the site was converted into a
farm.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_61" id="Footnote_61"></a><a href="#FNanchor_61"><span
class="label">[050]</span></a> See Cuming's <cite>Tour</cite>, in our volume
iv, note 43.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_62" id="Footnote_62"></a><a href="#FNanchor_62"><span class="label">[051]</span></a> The correct name of this stream is Cache River. The French explorers
applied the term "cache" (hiding-place) to many streams, probably because
of articles hidden there by them. This particular stream is about thirty miles
long, being navigable for small boats about a third of the distance.</p>
<p>The town of America was laid off in 1818, with the expectation that it would
attain considerable size. For two or three years it grew rapidly; then low water
uncovered a long bar which excluded steamers from the landing, whereupon
the town declined and practically disappeared, the site now being occupied by
but one or two small dwellings.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_63" id="Footnote_63"></a><a href="#FNanchor_63"><span class="label">[052]</span></a> For a description of the Iron Banks, see Nuttall's <cite>Journal</cite>, in our volume
xiii, note 54.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_64" id="Footnote_64"></a><a href="#FNanchor_64"><span class="label">[053]</span></a> Although the range from extreme high to extreme low water amounts to
sixty feet perpendicular, in many parts of the Ohio, it does not exceed twenty
feet at this place, owing to the width to which the Ohio spreads in this neighbourhood,
when the river is high. This may be considered a circumstance
much in favour of the place, when compared with the disadvantages most other
positions on the Ohio labour under, from inundation in high water, and the
difficulty of unlading in low.—<span class="smcap">James.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_65" id="Footnote_65"></a><a href="#FNanchor_65"><span class="label">[054]</span></a> Rockport is the seat of Spencer County, Indiana, one hundred and forty
miles below Louisville, measured on the river's course.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_66" id="Footnote_66"></a><a href="#FNanchor_66"><span class="label">[055]</span></a> Green River enters the Ohio from the Kentucky side, thirty-five miles
below Rockport.—<span class="smcap">Ed</span>.</p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_67" id="Footnote_67"></a><a href="#FNanchor_67"><span
class="label">[056]</span></a> On Cherokee purchase, see Cuming's
<cite>Tour</cite>, in volume iv, this series,
note 190.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_68" id="Footnote_68"></a><a href="#FNanchor_68"><span class="label">[057]</span></a> Latitude 36° 59′ 47.99″; longitude, 89° 9′ 31.2″.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_69" id="Footnote_69"></a><a href="#FNanchor_69"><span class="label">[058]</span></a> Schultz's Travels, vol. 2. p. 92.—<span class="smcap">James.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_70" id="Footnote_70"></a><a href="#FNanchor_70"><span class="label">[059]</span></a> The cymbidium hiemale of Willdenow, which has been placed by Mr.
Nuttall under the genus corallorhiza of Haller, occurs in the fertile soils of
the Mississippi, with two radical leaves, as described by the early authors.
Mr. N.'s amended description is therefore only applicable to the plant as it
occurs in the eastern states, where it is commonly found to have but a single
leaf.—<span class="smcap">James.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_71" id="Footnote_71"></a><a href="#FNanchor_71"><span class="label">[060]</span></a> Tyawapatia (Tywappity, Tiwappaty) Bottom was the name formerly
applied to the flood plain on the Missouri side, in the present Scott County.
It extended from the mouth of the Ohio to Commerce, near the site of which
was the settlement referred to. Americans began to enter the bottom as early
as 1798, and in 1823 the town of Commerce was laid out on the site of a trading
post already twenty years old.</p>
<p>The name Cape à la Bruche is probably a corruption of Cape à la Broche
(spit-like). The point was also called Cape La Croix (The Cross), which name
alone survives. It is about six miles below Cape Girardeau, on the same side
of the river.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_72" id="Footnote_72"></a><a href="#FNanchor_72"><span class="label">[061]</span></a> The name Au Vaise is a corruption of Rivière au Vase (Muddy River);
the present name is Big Muddy. It enters the Mississippi from the northeast,
at the northwest corner of Union County, Illinois, and boats ascend forty or
fifty miles.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_73" id="Footnote_73"></a><a href="#FNanchor_73"><span class="label">[062]</span></a> Opposite the town of the same name, in Jackson County, Illinois.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_74" id="Footnote_74"></a><a href="#FNanchor_74"><span class="label">[063]</span></a> They left the Illinois about the middle of June. Of the rocky cliffs below
the confluence of that river, Father Marquette speaks as follows: "Among the
rocks I have mentioned, we found one very high and steep, and saw two monsters
painted upon it, which are so hideous that we were frightened at first sight, and
the boldest savages dare not fix their eyes upon them. They are drawn as big
as a calf, with two horns like a wild-goat. Their looks are terrible, though
their face has something of human figure in it. Their eyes are red, their beard
is like that of a tiger, and their body is covered with scales. Their tail is so
long that it goes over their heads, and then turns between their fore-legs under
the belly, ending like a fish-tail. There are but three colours, viz. red, green,
and black; but those monsters are so well drawn that I cannot believe the savages
did it; and the rock whereon they are painted is so steep that it is a wonder
to me how it was possible to draw those figures: but to know to what purpose
they were made is as great a mystery. Whatever it be, our best painters would
hardly do better.</p>
<p>
"As we fell down the river, following the gentle stream of the waters, and
discoursing upon those monsters, we heard a great noise of waters, and saw
several small pieces of timber, and small floating islands, which were huddled
down the river <i>Pekitanoni</i>. The waters of this stream (the Missouri) are so
muddy, because of the violence of its stream, that it is impossible to drink of it;
and they spoil the clearness of the Mississippi, and make its navigation very
dangerous in this place. This river runs from the north-west; and I hope to
discover, in following its channel to its source, some other river that discharges
itself into the <i>Mar Marvejo</i>, or the <i>Caliphornian Gulf</i>.</p>
<p>
"About twenty leagues lower than the Pekitanoni, we met another river,
called the Ouabouskigon; but before we arrived there, we passed through a most
formidable place to the savages, who believe that a <i>manito</i> or devil resides in
that place, to deliver such as are so bold as to come near it. This terrible
<i>manito</i> proves to be nothing but some rocks in a turning of the river, about
thirty feet high, against which the stream runs with great violence." This is
probably the Grand Tower. "The river <i>Ouabouskigon</i> (Ohio) comes from the
eastward. The <i>Chuoanous</i> (Shawneese) inhabit its banks; and are so numerous,
that I have been informed there are thirty-eight villages of that nation
situated on this river."—<span class="smcap">James.</span></p>
<p>
<i>Comment by Ed.</i> James dates the start too early, for by Marquette's account,
it was near the end of June ("sur la fin de Juin"); nor is James's version quite
accurate. Compare the French of Marquette's account in <i>Jesuit Relations</i>, lix,
p. 138.</p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_75" id="Footnote_75"></a><a href="#FNanchor_75"><span class="label">[064]</span></a> Spelled also Brazos and Brazeau—a Perry County (Missouri) tributary of
the Mississippi.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_76" id="Footnote_76"></a><a href="#FNanchor_76"><span class="label">[065]</span></a> The Bois Broulé (Burnt Wood) Bottoms lie chiefly in Perry County, Missouri.
The tract is about eighteen miles long and from four to six wide.</p>
<p>For Kaskaskia River and settlement, see André Michaux's <cite>Travels</cite>, in our
volume iii, note 132.</p>
<p>For Ste. Geneviève, see Cuming's <cite>Tour</cite>, in our volume iv, note 174.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_77" id="Footnote_77"></a><a href="#FNanchor_77"><span class="label">[066]</span></a> Among the nobles who fled from France during the Revolution was the
father of Charles Dehault Delassus, last governor of Upper Louisiana under
Spanish domination. The elder Delassus came to Ste. Geneviève, and was placed
in command of a post established for him on a bluff overlooking the
river, two or three miles below the town; this post was named New Bourbon
(La Nouvelle Bourbon), in honor of the fallen French dynasty. The town
which grew up around it was still in existence in 1812.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_78" id="Footnote_78"></a><a href="#FNanchor_78"><span class="label">[067]</span></a> Portland was one of many towns laid out along the Mississippi by speculators
who hoped that important cities would arise on the sites chosen. This
particular venture was undertaken by a company organized in Cincinnati in
1819; but inhabitants failed to come, and the buildings erected by the promoters
fell into ruins. The site was near the present town of Chester; an Illinois state
penitentiary now stands on the spot.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_79" id="Footnote_79"></a><a href="#FNanchor_79"><span class="label">[068]</span></a> It is stated by Mr. Schultz that Fort Chartres, which was originally built
one-fourth of a mile from the river, was undermined in 1808. Vol. 2, p. 37.—<span class="smcap">James.</span></p>
<p>
<i>Comment by Ed.</i> For Kaskaskia, Prairie du Rocher, Cahokia, and Fort
Chartres, see André Michaux's <cite>Travels</cite>, in our volume iii, notes 132, 133, 135,
136.</p>
<p>Prairie du Pont, one mile south of Cahokia, grew up about a water-mill
built in 1754 on a creek of that name, by missionaries of St. Sulpice.</p>
<p>Harrisonville dates from the era of American domination. It was laid out
in 1808, and named for William Henry Harrison, the governor of Indiana
Territory, which then included Illinois. It was, in early days, the county town.</p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_80" id="Footnote_80"></a><a href="#FNanchor_80"><span class="label">[069]</span></a> Ample information on the subject of land titles, is contained in Stoddart's
Sketches of Louisiana, pages 243-267.—<span class="smcap">James.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_81" id="Footnote_81"></a><a href="#FNanchor_81"><span class="label">[070]</span></a> The statement here is not accurate. Marquette's descent of the Mississippi
was just one hundred and fifty years earlier, and the French settlements
in Illinois date from the beginning of the eighteenth century; while Ste. Geneviève,
the first in Missouri, was not established before 1732.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_82" id="Footnote_82"></a><a href="#FNanchor_82"><span class="label">[071]</span></a> Herculaneum, laid out in 1808, was another of the now extinct river
towns. It was thirty miles below St. Louis, and was at one time seat of Jefferson
County.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_83" id="Footnote_83"></a><a href="#FNanchor_83"><span class="label">[072]</span></a> A <i>township</i> is a square, whose sides (limited by true meridians and parallels
to the equator) are each 6 miles in length: area 36 square miles, or <i>sections</i>,
each containing 640 acres. Each township contains 23,040 acres. A
<i>quarter-section</i> is a square whose sides (bounded by meridians and parallels),
are each half a mile, and contain 160 acres. The corners of each section are
distinctly marked by the United States' deputy-surveyors. The <i>sections</i> are
numbered from 1 to 36, beginning at the N. E. corner of the township, and
going from right to left, to the N. W. corner; and then returning from left to
right to the east boundary of the township, and so on.</p>
<p>The act of February 22. 1817, authorizes the sale, in <i>half quarter</i> sections,
or (80 acres) of the sections 2, 5, 20, 23, 30, 33, of each township. The subdivision
of the quarter section is made by true meridians.</p>
<p>The <i>section</i> No. 16. in every township, is by law reserved for the support of
schools; the S. E. corner of that section is the centre of each township. More
than 60 million acres of United States' land, have already been surveyed:—
<span class="fraction"><sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>36</sub></span>
of 60 millions is 1,666,666 acres, reserved by law for the support of schools.
The section No. 16. will unquestionably be reserved in all future surveys and
disposals of public lands.</p>
<p>For colleges and seminaries of a higher grade, thirteen whole townships
have already been granted by the United States to Michigan, Ohio, Indiana,
&c. Thirteen townships are equal to 299,520 acres.</p>
<p>By section 2. of the act of April 18. 1806, relative to Tennessee, 200,000 acres
are in that state reserved for colleges and academies.</p>
<p>The reservations for schools, colleges, &c. are—</p>
<table summary="reservations for schools etc.">
<tr>
<td align="left">Section No. 16.</td>
<td align="right">1,666,666</td></tr>
<tr>
<td align="left">Thirteen townships</td>
<td align="right">299,520</td></tr>
<tr>
<td align="left">Reservation in Tennessee</td>
<td align="right" class="btmline">200,000</td></tr>
<tr>
<td align="left"></td>
<td align="right">2,166,186</td>
<td align="left">acres;</td></tr>
</table>
<p class="continue">which, at the minimum price established previous to the year 1820, of two dollars
per acre, is $4,332,372.</p>
<p>The area of the whole state of Ohio (the eldest of the states north of the Ohio)
is about 25 millions of acres; of this about 14,400 had been surveyed anterior
to the late cessions, which embrace the N. W. part of that state: <span class="fraction"><sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>36</sub></span> of 14,400,000
is 400,000.</p>
<p>The free spirit of Ohio, united with signal industry and economy, has already
given to section 16. in the surveyed portion of the state, a value of at least four
dollars per acre, or of 1,600,000 dollars. There are instances, in which section
16. in Ohio, is worth from twenty to thirty dollars per acre.—<cite>National Intelligencer
of November 10. 1819.</cite>—<span class="smcap">James.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_84" id="Footnote_84"></a><a href="#FNanchor_84"><span class="label">[073]</span></a> The Meramec River (the name is a corruption of an Indian word meaning
"Catfish") forms part of the boundary between Jefferson and St. Louis
counties, Missouri. It flows from the southwest, its chief sources lying in Dent
County, and is navigable for steamboats for almost a hundred miles.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_85" id="Footnote_85"></a><a href="#FNanchor_85"><span class="label">[074]</span></a> <i>Genus Mus. L.— M. Floridanus, Ord, Say.</i> <i>Body</i> robust; <i>back</i> plumbeous;
sides, sacrum, and origin of the tail, ferrugineous-yellowish; <i>fur</i> plumbeous
near its base; all beneath white; <i>tail</i> hairy, above brown, as long as the body;
<i>head</i> plumbeous, intermixed with gray, gradually attenuated to the nose; <i>ears</i>
large, prominent, patulous, obtusely rounded, naked or furnished with obsolete
sparse hairs behind, and on the margin within; <i>eyes</i> moderately prominent;
<i>whiskers</i>, some black, and some white bristles, elongated, longest surpassing
the tips of the ears, arranged in six longitudinal series, superior labia, and those
of the angles of the mouth, folded into the mouth, and hairy within; <i>legs</i> subequal,
robust; anterior legs with a few white projecting setæ near the foot behind;
<i>feet</i> white; <i>toes</i> annulate beneath, with impressed lines, intermediate ones
equal, exterior ones equal; shorter thumb minute; <i>palm</i> with five tuberculous
prominences, of which the anterior ones are placed triangularly, and the others
transversely; <i>nails</i> concealed by the hairs; <i>posterior feet</i>, inner toe shortest, 2d,
3d, and 4th subequal, the third slightly longest, all beneath annulated; <i>nails</i>
concealed by the hairs; <i>palm</i> with six tubercles, of which the three posterior
ones are distant from each other. Entire length, from nose to tip of tail,
sixteen inches nearly; <i>tail</i> seven inches, <i>ear</i> rather more than
<span class="fraction"><sup>9</sup>⁄<sub>10</sub></span> of an inch long,
greatest breadth one inch. From tip of nose to anterior canthus of the eye,
<span class="fraction"><sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>20</sub></span> inches. Length of the eye nearly <span class="fraction"><sup>2</sup>⁄<sub>5</sub></span>.—<span class="smcap">James.</span></p>
<p><i>Comment by Ed.</i> George Ord, a Philadelphia scientist and writer, was
known especially for his work in ornithology. He was at one time a vice president
of the American Philosophical Society, and from 1851-58 was president
of the Academy of Natural Sciences at Philadelphia.</p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_86" id="Footnote_86"></a><a href="#FNanchor_86"><span class="label">[075]</span></a>
Near the mouth of the Merameg were collected the Rudbeckia <i>hirta</i>, and
R. purpurea, a small white flowering species of Houstonia, the Galium tinctorium
Smyrnium aureum, a phlox, a new species of potentilla, a conyza, the trifolium
reflexum, a beautiful aira, the campunula perfoliata, diospyros virginiana,
rhus glabra, and many others. <cite>Dr. Baldwin's MS. Notes.</cite>—<span class="smcap">James.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_87" id="Footnote_87"></a><a href="#FNanchor_87"><span class="label">[076]</span></a> Vide Poche (Empty Pocket), more properly Carondelet, now included in
St. Louis, was at this time five miles south of the original city. It is of about
the same age.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div></div>
<div class="footnotes">
<div class="fakeh3">Footnotes to Chapter III:</div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_88" id="Footnote_88"></a><a href="#FNanchor_88"><span class="label">[077]</span></a> The name Pain Court (Short of Bread), and the similar appellations of
Carondelet (<i>Vide Poche</i>—Empty Pocket), and of Ste. Geneviève (<i>Misère</i>—Poverty),
are said to have originated in the good-natured raillery between the
French of the several settlements. They probably point also to the want often
experienced by a trading people who neglected agriculture. For further facts
relative to the early history of St. Louis, see Croghan's <cite>Journals</cite>, in our
volume i, note 134, and André Michaux's <cite>Travels</cite>, in our volume iii, note
138.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_89" id="Footnote_89"></a><a href="#FNanchor_89"><span class="label">[078]</span></a> The lack of a good harbor at St. Louis has occasioned vast trouble and
expense. The encroachment of the river on the Illinois side caused sand-bars
to form along the city water front, and for many years it seemed likely that the
town would eventually be left high and dry. Efforts at improvement were begun
in 1833, ox-teams and plows being used to loosen the sand for high water to
remove. Both city and federal governments have since made many improvements,
the river at that point requiring almost continuous care.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_90" id="Footnote_90"></a><a href="#FNanchor_90"><span class="label">[079]</span></a> George Rapp, the founder of the Harmonites, was born in Würtemberg
in 1770. The sect endeavored to revive the practices of the primitive Christian
church, communism and celibacy being among its tenets. After founding
Harmony, Pennsylvania, in 1803, and New Harmony, Indiana, in 1815, the
community settled at Harmony, Pennsylvania, where Rapp died in 1847.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_91" id="Footnote_91"></a><a href="#FNanchor_91"><span class="label">[080]</span></a> C. parviflorum.—<span class="smcap">James.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_92" id="Footnote_92"></a><a href="#FNanchor_92"><span class="label">[081]</span></a> Hamamelis virginica, and quercus nigra.—<span class="smcap">James.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_93" id="Footnote_93"></a><a href="#FNanchor_93"><span class="label">[082]</span></a> Bradbury's <cite>Travels</cite> are reprinted as volume v of our series. See preface
of that volume for biographical sketch.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_94" id="Footnote_94"></a><a
href="#FNanchor_94"><span class="label">[083]</span></a>
What we have called base in the following statement is in reality the length
of a line passing over the top of the mound, from the termination of the base
each side.</p>
<p>The numbers refer to a draft. The heights are estimated, with the exception
of two.</p>
<table summary="details of Indian tumuli">
<tr>
<td align="left" colspan="3">
No. 2. A square with a hollow way, gradually sloping to the top;
or, in other words, a hollow square open behind.</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="pad2">Base</td>
<td align="right">50</td>
<td align="left">feet.</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="pad2">Height</td>
<td align="right">5</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="pad2">Distance N. from the Spanish bastion</td>
<td align="right">259</td></tr>
<tr>
<td align="left" colspan="3">No. 3. An oblong square.</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="pad2">Longitudinal base</td>
<td align="right">114</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="pad2">Transverse base</td>
<td align="right">50</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="pad2">Length at top</td>
<td align="right">80</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="pad2">Perpendicular height</td>
<td align="right">4</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="pad2">Distance from No. 2. N.</td>
<td align="right">115</td></tr>
<tr>
<td align="left" colspan="3">No. 4. An oblong square.</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="pad2">Longitudinal base</td>
<td align="right">84</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="pad2">Longitudinal top</td>
<td align="right">45</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="pad2">Perpendicular height</td>
<td align="right">4</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="pad2">Distance N.</td>
<td align="right">251</td></tr>
<tr>
<td align="left" colspan="3">
Nos. 2. 3. and 4. are each about 33 ordinary steps from the edge
of the second bank of the river.</td></tr>
<tr>
<td align="left" colspan="3">No. 5. An oblong square.</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="pad2">Longitudinal base</td>
<td align="right">81</td>
<td align="left">feet.</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="pad2">Longitudinal top</td>
<td align="right">35</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="pad2">Perpendicular height</td>
<td align="right">4</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="pad2">Distance W.</td>
<td align="right">155</td></tr>
<tr>
<td align="left" colspan="3">
No. 6. Different in form from the others. It is called the
<i>Falling</i> <i>Garden</i>, and consists of three stages, all of equal
length, and of the same parallelogramic form: the superior stage,
like the five succeeding mounds, is bounded on the east by the
edge of the second bank of the river: the second and third stages
are in succession on the declivity of the bank, each being
horizontal; and are connected with each other, and with the first,
by an abruptly oblique descent.</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="pad2">Longitudinal base</td>
<td align="right">114</td>
<td align="left">feet.</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="pad2">Longitudinal top</td>
<td align="right">88</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="pad2">Transverse base of first stage</td>
<td align="right">30</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="pad2">Transverse height of first stage</td>
<td align="right">5</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="pad2">Declivity to the second stage</td>
<td align="right">34</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="pad2">Transverse surface of second stage</td>
<td align="right">51</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="pad2">Declivity to the third stage</td>
<td align="right">30</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="pad2">Transverse surface of third stage</td>
<td align="right">87</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="pad2">Declivity to the natural slope</td>
<td align="right">19</td></tr>
<tr>
<td align="left" colspan="3">No. 7. Like the three succeeding ones, conical.</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="pad2">Distance northward</td>
<td align="right">95</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="pad2">Base</td>
<td align="right">83</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="pad2">Top</td>
<td align="right">34</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="pad2">Height</td>
<td align="right">4½</td></tr>
<tr>
<td align="left">No. 8. Distance about N.</td>
<td align="right">94</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="pad2">Base</td>
<td align="right">98</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="pad2">Top</td>
<td align="right">31</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="pad2">Height</td>
<td align="right">5</td></tr>
<tr>
<td align="left">No. 9. Distance about N.</td>
<td align="right">70</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="pad2">Base</td>
<td align="right">114</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="pad2">Top</td>
<td align="right">56</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="pad2">Height</td>
<td align="right">16</td></tr>
<tr>
<td align="left">No. 10. Distance about N.</td>
<td align="right">74</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="pad2">Base</td>
<td align="right">91</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="pad2">Top</td>
<td align="right">34</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="pad2">Height</td>
<td align="right">8 or 10</td></tr>
<tr>
<td align="left" colspan="3">No. 11. Nearly square, with a large area on the top (a brick house is erected at the S.W. corner). The eastern side appears to range with the preceding mounds.</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="pad2">Distance</td>
<td align="right">158</td>
<td align="left">feet.</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="pad2">Base</td>
<td align="right">179</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="pad2">Top</td>
<td align="right">107</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="pad2">Height W. side, say</td>
<td align="right">5</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="pad2">Height S.</td>
<td align="right">11</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="pad2">Height E.</td>
<td align="right">15 or 20</td></tr>
<tr>
<td align="left">No. 12. Nearly square, westerly a little N. from No. 7. and distant from it</td>
<td align="right">30</td>
<td align="left">feet.</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="pad2">Base</td>
<td align="right">129</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="pad2">Top</td>
<td align="right">50</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="pad2">Height</td>
<td align="right">10</td></tr>
<tr>
<td align="left" colspan="3">No. 13. A parallelogram, placed transversely with respect to the group.</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="pad2">Distance</td>
<td align="right">30</td>
<td align="left">feet.</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="pad2">Distance from No. 5. N. 10 W.</td>
<td align="right">350</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="pad2">Longitudinal base</td>
<td align="right">214</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="pad2">Longitudinal top</td>
<td align="right">134</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="pad2">Transverse base</td>
<td align="right">188</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="pad2">Transverse top</td>
<td align="right">97</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="pad2">Height</td>
<td align="right">12</td></tr>
<tr>
<td align="left">No. 14. A convex mound, W.</td>
<td align="right">55</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="pad2">Base</td>
<td align="right">95</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="pad2">Height</td>
<td align="right">5 or 6</td></tr>
<tr>
<td align="left" colspan="3">No. 15. Together with the three succeeding ones, more or less square.</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="pad2">Distance N.W.</td>
<td align="right">117</td>
<td align="left">feet.</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="pad2">Base</td>
<td align="right">70</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="pad2">Height</td>
<td align="right">4</td></tr>
<tr>
<td align="left">No. 16. Distance N. 10 E.</td>
<td align="right">103</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="pad2">Base</td>
<td align="right">124</td></tr>
<tr>
<td align="left">No. 17. Distance N.</td>
<td align="right">78</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="pad2">Base</td>
<td align="right">82</td></tr>
<tr>
<td align="left">No. 18. Distance, N.N.E.</td>
<td align="right">118</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="pad2">Base</td>
<td align="right">77</td></tr>
<tr>
<td align="left" colspan="3">The mounds from 14. to 18. inclusive, are so arranged as to describe a curve, which, when continued, terminates at the larger mounds, Nos. 15. and 19. No. 19. A large quadrangular mound, placed transversely, and with No. 13., ranging in a line nearly parallel to the principal series (from 2. to 11.)</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="pad2">Distance N.N.W. from No. 13.</td>
<td align="right">484</td>
<td align="left">feet.</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="pad2">Distance E.N.E. from No. 18.</td>
<td align="right">70</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="pad2">Base</td>
<td align="right">187</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="pad2">Top</td>
<td align="right">68</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="pad2">(By measurement) Height</td>
<td align="right">23</td></tr>
<tr>
<td align="left" colspan="3">No. 20. A small barrow, perhaps two feet
high, and of proportionably rather large base, say 15 or 20 feet.</td></tr>
<tr>
<td align="left" colspan="3">No. 21. A mound similar to the preceding,
same height. West of No. 16., base 25 feet.</td></tr>
<tr>
<td align="left" colspan="3">No. 22. Quadrangular.</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="pad2">Distance West from No. 16.</td>
<td align="right">319</td>
<td align="left">feet.</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="pad2">Base</td>
<td align="right">73</td></tr>
<tr>
<td align="left" colspan="3">No. 23. A mound of considerable regularity; but, owing to the thickness of the bushes, we cannot at present satisfy ourselves of its being artificial, though from its corresponding with No. 25. we suppose it to be so.</td></tr>
<tr>
<td align="left" colspan="3">No. 24. Appears to be an irregular mound 10 or 12 feet high, and 145 feet base.</td></tr>
<tr>
<td align="left" colspan="3">No. 25. Distant N. 10 E. 114 feet; and following this course 132 feet, we arrive at an elevation on its margin, as is also the case with No. 24., and which we have numbered 26.</td></tr>
<tr>
<td align="left" colspan="3">No. 26. Of which the base is 89 feet, and height 10 or 12.—It is distant W.N.W. from No. 26., 538 feet.</td></tr>
<tr>
<td align="left" colspan="3">No. 27. Is the largest mound, of an elongated-oval form, with a large step on the eastern side.</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="pad2">Distance N. from No. 26.</td>
<td align="right">1463</td>
<td align="left">feet.</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="pad2">Longitudinal base</td>
<td align="right">319</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="pad2">Longitudinal top</td>
<td align="right">136</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="pad2">Transverse base</td>
<td align="right">158</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="pad2">Transverse top</td>
<td align="right">11</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="pad2">Step transversely</td>
<td align="right">79</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="pad2">Height by measurement</td>
<td align="right">34</td></tr>
</table>
<p>At the distance of a mile to the westward, is said to be another large mound.
—<span class="smcap">James.</span></p>
<p><i>Comment by Ed.</i> These mounds have been effaced by the growth of the
city. The map of them prepared by Long's party was not published until 1861;
it will be found on page 387 of the Smithsonian Institution <cite>Report</cite> for that year.</p>
</div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_95" id="Footnote_95"></a><a
href="#FNanchor_95"><span class="label">[084]</span></a>
The uncertainty with which the shell mentioned was classed
as <i>Cassis cornutus</i> renders its identification in terms of
modern nomenclature practically impossible; such identification
could be accurately made only by examination of the same
specimen. The value of the argument relative to the origin of
the Indians is, therefore, not easy to estimate.—<span
class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_96" id="Footnote_96"></a><a href="#FNanchor_96"><span class="label">[085]</span></a> From this fact it derived the name "Monk's Mound." The Trappist
establishment was made in 1808, but was soon afterwards abandoned. The
mound is one of the largest in the United States—the area of the base is six
acres, that of the top two; the height is ninety-one feet.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_97" id="Footnote_97"></a><a href="#FNanchor_97"><span class="label">[086]</span></a> Maturin.-<span class="smcap">James.</span></p>
<p>
<i>Comment by Ed.</i> Charles Robert Maturin (1782-1816) was a Dublin
dramatist and novelist. In his writings passages of undoubted eloquence
were strangely mingled with extravagance and bombast. The incoherence of
his plots and the inconsistency of his characters led many who recognized his
genius to believe him mad.</p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_98" id="Footnote_98"></a><a href="#FNanchor_98"><span class="label">[087]</span></a> The cordelle was a rope, often several hundred yards long, by means of
which men towed boats up rapid streams. When the current was especially
strong, the end of the cordelle was attached to a tree and a windlass used.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_99" id="Footnote_99"></a><a href="#FNanchor_99"><span class="label">[088]</span></a> In a section of forty feet perpendicular, of the alluvion of the Mississippi,
near New Madrid, Mr. Shultz found seven hundred and ninety-eight layers,
indicating an equal number of inundations, in the time of their deposition.
Supposing these inundations to have happened yearly, we have an easy method
of forming an estimate of the rapidity of the elevation of the bed of the Mississippi.
These layers were found to vary in thickness, from one-fourth of an
inch to three inches. See Shultz's <cite>Travels</cite>, vol. ii. p. 90.—<span class="smcap">James.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_100" id="Footnote_100"></a><a href="#FNanchor_100"><span class="label">[089]</span></a> Bellefontaine, or Fort Bellefontaine (old Fort Charles the Prince), was occupied
by troops until 1826. See Thwaites, <cite>Original Journals of the Lewis and
Clark Expedition</cite>, v, pp. 392, 393, note 2. The site of the newer works mentioned
in the text is now uncertain. An island opposite the mouth of Cold
Water Creek was the camp of Lewis and Clark the first night after beginning
the ascent of the Missouri (May 14, 1804).—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_101" id="Footnote_101"></a><a href="#FNanchor_101"><span class="label">[090]</span></a> Tilia Americana. The Podalyria alba, anemone virginiana, polygala incarnata
(prairies) anagallis arvensis, lathyrus decaphyllus, ranunculus fluviatalis,
carex multiflora, &c. were collected at Bellefontain. <cite>Dr. Baldwin's MS. Notes.</cite>—<span class="smcap">James.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_102" id="Footnote_102"></a><a href="#FNanchor_102"><span class="label">[091]</span></a> The correct orthography of the word is Charbonnière, which means
"carrying coals."—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_103" id="Footnote_103"></a><a href="#FNanchor_103"><span class="label">[092]</span></a> This was Benjamin O'Fallon, whose mother was the youngest sister of
George Rogers and William Clark; his father, Dr. James O'Fallon, was a
Revolutionary character and prominent Kentucky pioneer. A brother, John
O'Fallon, was in the middle of the century, one of the most prominent citizens
of St. Louis.</p>
<p>John Dougherty was later for many years agent for the Oto, Pawnee, and
Omaha tribes.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_104" id="Footnote_104"></a><a
href="#FNanchor_104"><span class="label">[093]</span></a>
For St. Charles, see Bradbury's <cite>Travels</cite>, in our volume v,
note 9.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_105" id="Footnote_105"></a><a href="#FNanchor_105"><span class="label">[094]</span></a> The vegetable productions at this place were, the populus deltoides, occupying
the narrow margin of the river (not here preceded by the salix angustata,
as is generally the case in recent alluvial grounds on the Ohio and Mississippi);
the amorpha fruticosa,<a name="FNanchor_106" id="FNanchor_106"></a><a
href="#Footnote_106" class="fnanchor">[A]</a> and platanus occidentalis, next follow. The margin of
the bluff produces the quercus rubra, juglans pubescens, carpinus Americana,
(around the latter, we observed the celastrus scandens entwined and in fruit,)
and on higher grounds, the laurus sassafras and juniperus Virginianus. Of
herbaceous plants, the only one in flower was the rudbeckia fulgida. The
higher parts of the hills were in many places thickly covered with species of
elymus and andropogon, the summits being usually quite naked, and consisting
of horizontal masses of ferruginous coloured sandstone. <i>Baldwin.</i>—<span class="smcap">JAMES.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_106" id="Footnote_106"></a><a
href="#FNanchor_106"><span class="label">[A]</span></a>
This beautiful flowering shrub occupies the low lands of Georgia, on the sea coast,
but is not confined to the margin of rivers, as appears to be the case on the Missouri.</p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_107" id="Footnote_107"></a><a
href="#FNanchor_107"><span class="label">[095]</span></a>
On Point L'Abbadie, see Bradbury's <cite>Travels</cite>, comprising our volume v,
note 13.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_108" id="Footnote_108"></a><a
href="#FNanchor_108"><span class="label">[096]</span></a>
Baldwin.—<span class="smcap">James.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_109" id="Footnote_109"></a><a href="#FNanchor_109"><span class="label">[097]</span></a> Dardenne Creek flows northeast across St. Charles County to the Mississippi,
as do nearly all the watercourses of this county. It and the township of
the same name are so called from one of the early settlers.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_110" id="Footnote_110"></a><a href="#FNanchor_110"><span class="label">[098]</span></a> Perruque (Wig) Creek is said to commemorate the adventure of a Frenchman
whose wig became entangled in the branches of a tree while he was crossing
the stream.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_111" id="Footnote_111"></a><a href="#FNanchor_111"><span class="label">[099]</span></a> Thomas Kennedy, a Revolutionary veteran from Virginia came to Warren
County, Missouri, early in 1808. His stockade and blockhouse, built for protection
against the Indians during the War of 1812-15, stood a mile and a half
southeast of Wright City.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_112" id="Footnote_112"></a><a href="#FNanchor_112"><span class="label">[100]</span></a> The course of the party had been northwest through St. Clair and Warren
counties, and thence south by west to the river. Loutre Island is on the boundary
between Warren and Montgomery counties.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_113" id="Footnote_113"></a><a href="#FNanchor_113"><span class="label">[101]</span></a> This affair took place March 7, 1815. Captain James Callaway was the
grandson of Daniel Boone. His company consisted besides himself of a lieutenant
and fourteen men.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_114" id="Footnote_114"></a><a
href="#FNanchor_114"><span class="label">[102]</span></a>
Loutre (Otter) Island was the site of the first settlements in
Montgomery County, which probably date back to 1798. There were
two Talbots among the early arrivals, Christopher and Hale. Among
their neighbors were the Thorps, Ashcrafts, Coles, Pattons, and
Coopers—there were two or three families of each, most of them
being from Kentucky. The father of "Kit" Carson was another member
of the community.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div></div>
<div class="footnotes">
<div class="fakeh3">Footnotes to Chapter IV:</div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_115" id="Footnote_115"></a><a href="#FNanchor_115"><span class="label">[103]</span></a> Of Gasconade in 1823 it is said, "very few buildings are as yet erected,
and it is very doubtful whether its increase will be as rapid as was anticipated."
It was the first seat of Gasconade County, but was supplanted by Hermann.
At present its population numbers less than one hundred.</p>
<p>The description of Gasconade River is adequate. The "Yungar" fork of
Osage is now called Niangua (Osage word for bear).—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_116" id="Footnote_116"></a><a href="#FNanchor_116"><span class="label">[104]</span></a> Au Vase (Muddy) has been corrupted to Auxvasse, and there are now
two streams in Callaway County bearing this name. The larger, also called
Big Muddy Creek, is the first important stream above the Gasconade. Bear
(or Loose) Creek, is seven miles farther up, and the second Auxvasse, which
answers the description in the text, is just beyond. Other tributaries are Deer
Creek, from the south, just above Big Muddy River, and Middle River, from
the north, opposite Bear Creek. The stream called Revoe's Creek a few lines
below, is now Rivaux (Rivals) Creek.</p>
<p>For Côte Sans Dessein, see Bradbury's <cite>Travels</cite>, comprising our volume v,
note 20.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_117" id="Footnote_117"></a><a href="#FNanchor_117"><span class="label">[105]</span></a> The grants of land in Louisiana under Spanish rule were in a marked
degree irregular and heterogeneous. Only those were complete which had received
endorsement by the governor-general at New Orleans. Most of the
settlers were too poor to undertake the journey thither and pay the required
fees; a tacit right of occupation was therefore permitted by the local officials,
lands were unsurveyed, and much confusion resulted. During the last decade
of Spanish authority (1794-1804) large numbers of Americans had been tempted
to cross the Mississippi and stake out claims in upper Louisiana. Some of
these were bona fide settlers, more mere speculators; and after the rumor of
Spanish cession to France was heard, fraudulent grants were made in large
numbers. Upon knowledge of this, the congress of the United States in the
act of March 26, 1804, revoked all grants made since the treaty of San Ildefonso
(1800) with a proviso exempting the rights of actual settlers. This law
created much dissatisfaction, and petitions for redress were sent from both
upper Louisiana and Orleans Territory. See <cite>American State Papers</cite>, "Miscellaneous,"
i, pp. 396-405. Thereupon Congress passed acts for redress—that
for upper Louisiana (March 2, 1805) creating a commission, which first
met in St. Louis, September 20, 1806; but its final report was not made until
1812. See <cite>American State Papers</cite>, "Public Lands," ii, pp. 388-603.</p>
<p>The lands set apart for the relief of sufferers by the New Madrid earthquakes
were known as "New Madrid grants." Auguste Chouteau established
the first distillery in St. Louis by the aid of an extensive grant.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_118" id="Footnote_118"></a><a href="#FNanchor_118"><span class="label">[106]</span></a> The hero of this exploit was a Frenchman bearing the name of Baptiste
Louis Roi.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_119" id="Footnote_119"></a><a href="#FNanchor_119"><span class="label">[107]</span></a> Miegia macrosperma of Persoon.—<span class="smcap">James.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_120" id="Footnote_120"></a><a href="#FNanchor_120"><span
class="label">[108]</span></a>
The Nishnebottona (Nishnabotna) enters the Missouri in Atchison
County, in the northwest corner of the state. See <i>post</i>, note 166.—<span
class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_121" id="Footnote_121"></a><a
href="#FNanchor_121"><span class="label">[109]</span></a>
From Bay Charles Hill, four miles below Hannibal, Missouri, we received,
through Dr. Sommerville, several organic remains. Among them are
the following:—</p>
<p>Carbonate of Lime.</p>
<p>One specimen contains exclusive quantities of segments of the encrinite of
small diameter, from one-fourth of an inch down to minute.</p>
<p>Another specimen also, with numerous small encrinites, has a very wide and
short radiated productus.</p>
<p>Another specimen, a grayish chert, containing cavities formed by the solution
and disappearance of encrinites. The parts of these which were originally
hollow when in the state of carbonate of lime, being subsequently filled with
chert, now show the nature of the fossil, being cylindrical cavities, with a solid
centre and transverse partitions, the largest three-tenths of an inch wide.</p>
<p>From Rector's-hill, adjoining the village of Clarksville, Missouri, from Dr.
Sommerville's collection:—</p>
<p>A specimen of oolite—carbonate of lime.</p>
<p>It is composed of small spherical granules in contact with each other, which,
in their fracture, exhibit rather a concentric tendency, with the appearance of
a central nucleus; but we could not perceive any decided evidences of former
organization in them. Imbedded in the mass are a few columnar segments of
encrinites, and a portion of a compressed bivalve, which, in the form of its
radiating lines, resembles a pecten.</p>
<p>From Charbonière:—</p>
<p>A specimen in argillaceous sandstone of a portion of a leaf like the nelumbium.
It is only the middle portion of the impression of the leaf that remains,
being of an oval form of about five inches in greatest diameter, the rest being
broken away; the stalk has been broken off at the junction of the leaf.</p>
<p>Productus spinosus. <span class="smcap">Say.</span></p>
<p>A small species of terebratula, in width two-fifths, and in length more than
seven-tenths of an inch—an internal cast—individuals very numerous, varying
much in size, the smallest being about one-fifth of an inch wide.</p>
<p>From the Mammelles near St. Charles:—</p>
<p>Productus: a portion of a valve, and smaller portion of the opposite valve
of a remarkably large species, of which the proportions may have been not dissimilar
to that of the Ency. Meth. pl. 244. fig. 5. The striæ are similar to those
of that shell, except in being somewhat smaller; and the groove of one valve, and
consequent elevation of the other, not so profound, less abrupt, and more angular
in the middle, and far less prominent on the edge of the shell. It may justly
be named <i>grandis</i>, as its hinge width was more than 3½ inches.—<span class="smcap">James.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_122" id="Footnote_122"></a><a href="#FNanchor_122"><span class="label">[110]</span></a> The town established here was Osage City. In 1823 it was described as
still "nearly in a state of nature." The present population is about five hundred.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_123" id="Footnote_123"></a><a href="#FNanchor_123"><span class="label">[111]</span></a> Moreau's Creek (River à Morou, Marrow Creek, Murrow Creek) flows
from the south. Moreau signifies "extremely black."</p>
<p>Just above Cedar Island is Jefferson City (Missouriopolis on the map,) the
state capital.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_124" id="Footnote_124"></a><a href="#FNanchor_124"><span class="label">[112]</span></a> Mast Creek cannot be identified with certainty, as there are several small
creeks where Lewis and Clark locate it, fourteen and a half miles above Cedar
Island. The name was given because of an accident to the mast of their vessel.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_125" id="Footnote_125"></a><a href="#FNanchor_125"><span class="label">[113]</span></a> Nashville was laid out in 1819, on land owned by a man named Nash.
The site was on the river, just below Providence, Boone County, but the town
was destroyed by a change of the channel.</p>
<p>The site of Smithton was a half mile west of the court house in the town of
Columbia, but the difficulty in obtaining water there led to removal in 1820 to
the site of Columbia. The original town was named Smithton in honor of
Thomas A. Smith, land office register at Franklin. See <i>post</i>, note 118.—<span
class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_126" id="Footnote_126"></a><a href="#FNanchor_126"><span class="label">[114]</span></a> Roche à Pierce is a corruption of a phrase meaning "pierced rock,"
which has been restored in the present name of the stream (Roche Percée).
The mouth of the river is just above Providence.</p>
<p>On some maps, Splice Creek is Spice Creek.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_127" id="Footnote_127"></a><a href="#FNanchor_127"><span class="label">[115]</span></a> The Little Saline (Petite Saline) flows from the south. Big Manito Creek
(now corrupted to Moniteau) debouches at Rocheport, on the north side of the
river. Another Moniteau Creek enters the Missouri from the south, at the
Thousand Islands, near the boundary between Cole and Moniteau counties.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_128" id="Footnote_128"></a><a href="#FNanchor_128"><span class="label">[116]</span></a> The disaster feared actually occurred in 1828. Franklin was laid off
in 1816, being named for the famous Philadelphian. For a decade it was a
town of considerable importance. It was the county seat, contained the United
States land office, and was the point of departure for the Santa Fé country.
Most of the inhabitants hailed from Kentucky, Tennessee, and Virginia,
and at one time numbered between fifteen hundred and two thousand. When
the encroachments of the river drove away the residents, they founded New
Franklin, two miles distant, and thereafter the earlier site was known as
Old Franklin.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_129" id="Footnote_129"></a><a href="#FNanchor_129"><span class="label">[117]</span></a> In compact limestone, which had been subjected to the action of fire, we
observed segments of encrinites becoming easily detached. They were three-fifths
of an inch in diameter, varying to the size of fine sand. At Boonsville
we found a small ostrea and a terebratula, in carbonate of lime.—<span class="smcap">James.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_130" id="Footnote_130"></a><a
href="#FNanchor_130"><span class="label">[118]</span></a>
Thomas A. Smith, a native of Virginia, attained the rank of brigadier-general
during the War of 1812-15. Resigning his commission in 1818, he was
appointed receiver of the land office at Old Franklin, Missouri. In 1826
he removed to a large tract of prairie land on Salt Fork, Saline County,
about eight miles from Marshall. This being one of the earliest attempts to
occupy prairie land, Smith called his estate "Experiment." He was an intimate
friend of Senator Thomas A. Benton. See volume xvi of our series, note 91,
for his military record.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
</div></div>
<div class="footnotes">
<div class="fakeh3">Footnotes to Chapter V:</div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_131" id="Footnote_131"></a><a href="#FNanchor_131"><span class="label">[119]</span></a> In a letter addressed to Mr. Frazer, an extract from which was published
in the tenth volume of the London Journal of Literature and the Arts, Dr.
Baldwin mentions having discovered near Monte Video, in South America,
the <i>Solanum Tuberosum</i> in its native locality. Mr. Lambert, however, considered
this plant as the <i>Solanum Commersoni</i> of Dunal; and though it produces
tuberous roots, and in other respects makes a near approach to S. tuberosum,
he was not satisfied of their identity, and remarks that it is yet to be proved, that
this is the stock from which the common potatoe has been derived. It appears,
however, that the original locality of the solanum tuberosum has been ascertained
by Ruiz and Pavon, after having escaped the observation of Humboldt
and Bonpland.—<span class="smcap">James.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_132" id="Footnote_132"></a><a href="#FNanchor_132"><span class="label">[120]</span></a> Frederick Pursh was born in Siberia, in 1774. Coming to the United
States at the age of twenty-five, he spent twelve years in botanical studies, the
results of which were published in England under the title <cite>Flora Americae
Septentrionalis, or a Systematic Arrangement and Description of the Plants of
North America</cite> (London, 2 vols., 1814). Pursh died at Montreal in 1820, while
preparing a flora of Canada.</p>
<p>For sketch of Muhlenberg, see F. A. Michaux's <cite>Travels</cite>, in our volume iii,
note 9.</p>
<p>Aimé Bonpland (1773-1858) was a French scientist and traveller. It has
been said that the expedition of Humboldt and Bonpland in tropical America
(1799-1804) "laid the foundation of the sciences of physical geography and
meteorology in their larger bearings." The fruit of their joint labors appeared
at Paris in 1807, under the title <cite>Voyage aux régions équinoxiales du nouveau
continent</cite>.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_133" id="Footnote_133"></a><a href="#FNanchor_133"><span class="label">[121]</span></a> Above Cote Sans Dessein, we saw frequently the Juglans nigra, and
J. pubescens, called white hickory; also a species of Cratægus, which, though
sometimes seen in Pennsylvania, appears to be hitherto undescribed. Its fruit
is large, yellow when ripe, and of an agreeable flavour. On the evening of
the 11th we anchored opposite a steep bank, which I was assisted to climb;
but night came on, and put an end to our herbarizations before I had the
opportunity to collect any thing interesting. The soil here is a dark vegetable
mould, at least five feet in depth, and little intermixed with sand. I ascended
the same bank on the following morning, but found nothing except a species of
Carex that I do not recollect to have seen before.</p>
<p>After getting under weigh, we passed high calcareous bluffs on the left side
of the river, covered with timber, and reminding us of the deep umbrageous
forests within the tropics.</p>
<p>Franklin, July 15th. Portulacca sativa, Solanum nigrum, Urticapumila,
Datura strammonium, and Phytolacca decandra, occur by the road side. Blackberries
were now ripe, but not well-flavoured. Campanula Americana, the large
Vernonia mentioned at Cote Sans Dessein, now flowering.</p>
<p>Some plants were brought in, among which we distinguished the Monarda
fistulosa, Achillea millefolia, Cacalia atriplicifolia, called "horse-mint," Queria
canadensis, Menispermum lyoni, Verbena urticifolia. The Annona triloba is
frequent about Franklin; also the Laurus benzoin, and the Symphoria now in
flower, the Rhus glabrum, Cercis canadensis, Ampelousis quinquefolia, Eupatorium
purpureum, in flower. Cucubalus stellatus, still flowering. The Prickly-fruited
Æsculus has nearly ripened its nut, Zanthoxylon clava herculis, in fruit,
a "wild gourd" not in flower.</p>
<p>July 26th. The Gleditschia is a small tree here; Geum album, Myosotis
virginiana, Amaranthus hybridus, Erigeron canadense, Solanum carolinianum,
very luxuriant and still flowering. The leaf of the Tilia glabra I found to
measure thirteen inches in length, and eleven in breadth. Bignonia radicans,
Dioscorea villosa, a Helianthus with a leaf margined with spines, the narrow-leaved
Brachystemum, the Lyatris pycnostachia, Rudbeckia purpurea, and
various others in flower. Juglans porcina and cinerea, Ostrya virginica, Rhus
copallinum.—August 4th. Dr. Lowry informed me he has seen Pyrus coronaria,
forty feet in height, in the forests about Franklin. He showed me a
Rudbeckia about three feet high with a cone of dark purple flowers, probably
a new species.</p>
<p>5th. Eupatorium hieracifolium beginning to flower, Menispermum canadense,
here called "sarsaparilla," its slender yellow roots being substituted for
that article.</p>
<p>6th. A Mimulus is found here resembling M. ringens, but the leaves are
not sessile; peduncle very short, flowers large, pink-coloured, stem acutely quadrangular;
Campanula Americana, three and a half feet high.—<span class="smcap">James.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_134" id="Footnote_134"></a><a href="#FNanchor_134"><span class="label">[122]</span></a> The name of this river has undergone many changes, appearing as Charleton,
Charlatan, Chératon, Charliton, Chareton, and Charlotte; the form Chariton
has now become fixed. The origin is unknown.</p>
<p>The town here mentioned, two miles north of Glasgow, was laid out by Duff
Green, a famous Jacksonian politician, and other associates. The growth was
for a few years so rapid that one settler exchanged St. Louis lots for an equal
number in Chariton; but the location proved unhealthful, and was abandoned
in 1829. Monticello, on higher ground, a mile away, and Thorntonsburg, at
the mouth of the Chariton, were founded in succession, but likewise disappeared.
Glasgow, laid out in 1836, was the first permanent town in the vicinity.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_135" id="Footnote_135"></a><a href="#FNanchor_135"><span class="label">[123]</span></a> The Des Moines River. The Illinois Indians called their habitat Moingona.
The French contracted this to les Moins, and called this stream
la Rivière des Moins. Later the name became associated with the Trappist
monks (moines), and by a play on words was changed to la Rivière des
Moines.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_136" id="Footnote_136"></a><a href="#FNanchor_136"><span class="label">[124]</span></a> On the Sauk and Foxes, see Bradbury's <cite>Travels</cite>, in our volume v, note 21.
For the Iowa, see Brackenridge's <cite>Journal</cite>, in our volume vi, note 13.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_137" id="Footnote_137"></a><a href="#FNanchor_137"><span class="label">[125]</span></a> Changes in the river have obliterated the channel
here called the Cut-Off.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_138" id="Footnote_138"></a><a href="#FNanchor_138"><span class="label">[126]</span></a> The coal-fields of Missouri have an area of about twenty-six thousand
square miles; a line drawn southwest from the mouth of the Des Moines River
to Vernon County roughly bounds the district. Northwest of this line every
county contains coal, and there are outlying patches on the southeast.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_139" id="Footnote_139"></a><a href="#FNanchor_139"><span class="label">[127]</span></a> Arrow Rock (the Pièrre à flèche of early French explorers) stands on the
west side of the river, in Saline County. The first settlements in the county
were made in the neighboring bottoms, and the earliest ferry west of Franklin
crossed the river at this point. The rock gave its name to a town founded
in 1829, which for a time was the county seat and an important shipping
point.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_140" id="Footnote_140"></a><a href="#FNanchor_140"><span class="label">[128]</span></a> Le Mine (Lamine, or La Mine) River empties into the Missouri seven
miles above Booneville, Cooper County. Renaudière named the stream
Rivière à la Mine, in 1723. It is about a hundred and thirty miles long. Salt
Fork, here called "saline fork," the principal tributary, crosses Saline county
roughly parallel with the Missouri.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_141" id="Footnote_141"></a><a href="#FNanchor_141"><span class="label">[129]</span></a> In 1720 Philip Renault, director-general of mines of the French colonies
in America, sent prospecting parties from Fort Chartres, into Missouri and
Arkansas, to seek gold and silver. These curious "diggings" are by some
supposed to have been made by his men. Charles Lockhart, mentioned in the
text, employed a number of men in 1819 in digging over some of these old pits,
but without making any important discoveries.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_142" id="Footnote_142"></a><a href="#FNanchor_142"><span class="label">[130]</span></a> Grand Pass received its name from the fact that the Osage trace, connecting
farther west with the Santa Fé trail, here followed the narrow divide
between Salt Fork and the Missouri bottom. This "pass" is about a mile
and a half long, and in one place so narrow that a stone can be thrown across.
A hotel was built here in 1835, and a small village now occupies the spot. For
a short time during a flood in 1875, part of the water of Salt Fork flowed across
the divide.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_143" id="Footnote_143"></a><a href="#FNanchor_143"><span class="label">[131]</span></a> The entire courses of both the Tabeau and Little Tabeau are within Lafayette
County. The mouth of the larger is near the boundary between Ray
and Carroll counties. The name is sometimes erroneously spelled Tabo and
Tebo.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_144" id="Footnote_144"></a><a href="#FNanchor_144"><span class="label">[132]</span></a> For derivation of this name, see Brackenridge's <cite>Journal</cite>, in our volume
vi, note 14.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_145" id="Footnote_145"></a><a
href="#FNanchor_145"><span class="label">[133]</span></a>
This stream debouches at the boundary between Jackson and Lafayette
counties, south of the Missouri. Its name is usually shortened to Fire Creek.
Lewis and Clark applied the name Fire Prairie Creek to a stream which entered
from the north. No stream nearer than Clear Creek, or Fishing Creek,
five miles above Fire Creek, answers their description.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_146" id="Footnote_146"></a><a href="#FNanchor_146"><span class="label">[134]</span></a> A variety of this species, the Cervus Virginianus, three specimens of which
occurred at Engineer cantonment, had all the feet white near the hoofs, and
extending to them on the hind part from a little above the spurious hoofs. This
white extremity was divided upon the sides of the foot by the general colour of
the leg, which extended down near to the hoof, leaving a white triangle in front,
of which the point was elevated rather higher than the spurious hoofs. The
black mark upon the lower lip, rather behind the middle of the sides, was strongly
noted—</p>
<table summary="Cervus Virginianus specimen measurements">
<tr>
<td align="left"></td>
<th align="right">ft.</th>
<th align="right">in.</th></tr>
<tr>
<td align="left">Total length, exclusive of hair, at tip of tail</td>
<td align="right">5</td>
<td align="right">4¾</td></tr>
<tr>
<td align="left">Ear, from the upper part of the head</td>
<td align="right">0</td>
<td align="right">6½</td></tr>
<tr>
<td align="left">Tail, from lateral base, exclusive of the hair</td>
<td align="right">0</td>
<td align="right">9½</td></tr>
<tr>
<td align="left">Hind foot, from tip of os calcus to tip of toe</td>
<td align="right">1</td>
<td align="right">6¼</td></tr>
<tr>
<td align="left">Fore arm</td>
<td align="right">1</td>
<td align="right">11<sup>7</sup>⁄<sub>8</sub></td></tr>
<tr>
<td align="left">Weight, in February, 115lbs.</td></tr>
</table>
<p>This species, common as it is, was never figured, nor indeed very well
described, until the year 1819, when it appeared in the valuable work of Messrs.
Geoffroy and F. Cuvier (Hist. Nat. des Mammiferes, 2d liv.) Its highest
northern range is Canada, in North America; and it is found as far south as the
river Orinoco, in South America.</p>
<p>This species is leanest in February and March, and in best condition in
October and November. The rutting season commences in November, and
continues about one month, ceasing generally about the middle of December.
During this season the neck of the male becomes much dilated.</p>
<p>The fawn, towards autumn, loses its spots; and the hair becomes grayish,
and lengthens in the winter. In this state the deer is said by the hunters to be
<i>in the gray</i>. This coat is shed in the latter part of May and beginning of June,
and is then substituted by the reddish coat. In this state the animal is said to
be <i>in the red</i>. Towards the last of August the old bucks begin to change to
the dark bluish colour; the doe commences this change a week or two later.
In this state they are said to be <i>in the blue</i>. This coat gradually lengthens until
it comes again to the <i>gray</i>. The skin is said to be toughest in the <i>red</i>, thickest
in the <i>blue</i>, and thinnest in the <i>gray</i>. The blue skin is most valuable.</p>
<p>The horns are cast in January. They lose the velvet the last of September
and beginning of October. About the middle of March, Mr. Peale shot a large
doe, in the matrix of which were three perfectly formed young, of the size of a
rabbit.—<span class="smcap">James.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_147" id="Footnote_147"></a><a href="#FNanchor_147"><span class="label">[135]</span></a> This rifle regiment, under Colonel Talbot Chambers, was a contingent
of the troops assigned to the Yellowstone expedition. See preface.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_148" id="Footnote_148"></a><a href="#FNanchor_148"><span class="label">[136]</span></a> Fort Osage was surrounded by a tract six miles square. It was the only
government trading factory west of the Mississippi. The post was occupied
at intervals until 1827, when it was superseded by Fort Leavenworth and permanently
abandoned. The site was near that of the present town of Sibley,
Jackson County, which was named in honor of George C. Sibley (see volume
v of our series, note 36), who was (1818-25) government agent at Fort Osage.
The distance above Chariton River, by the government survey of the Missouri,
is a hundred and twenty miles. See our volume v, note 31.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_149" id="Footnote_149"></a><a href="#FNanchor_149"><span class="label">[137]</span></a> A sketch of Boone as a Missouri pioneer will be found in Bradbury's
<cite>Travels</cite>, in our volume v, note 16.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_150" id="Footnote_150"></a><a href="#FNanchor_150"><span class="label">[138]</span></a> From Fort Osage.</p>
<p>
<i>Productus spinosus</i>, <span class="smcap">Say</span>.—Longitudinally and transversely subequally striated,
the transverse striæ somewhat larger than the others; a few remote short
spines, or acute tubercles, on the surface, arising from the longitudinal striæ.</p>
<p>Breadth an inch and a half; the striæ are somewhat indistinct—as in No. 5.</p>
<p>
<i>Productus incurvus</i>, <span class="smcap">Say</span>.—Shell much compressed; hinge margin nearly
rectilinear; surface of the valves longitudinally striated; convex valve longitudinally
indented in the middle; the beak prominent and incurved at tip;
opposite valve with a longitudinal prominence in the middle; the beak incurved
into the hinge beneath the other beak, and distant from it.</p>
<p>Width more than <span class="fraction">2<sup>2</sup>⁄<sub>5</sub></span> inches. A few univalves also occurred, but they were
so extremely imperfect that their genera could not be made out.</p>
<p>A dark-coloured carbonate of lime, containing small Terebratulæ like the
T. ovata of Sowerby, but less than half as long.</p>
<p>No. 1. a mass of carbonate of lime, containing segments of encrinites in small
ossicula.</p>
<p>6. A Caryophylla of a single star, about four inches long, of an irregularly
transversely undulated surface, imperfect at each end, but seems to have been
attached at base. Near the base it is bent at an angle of about 45 degrees.</p>
<p>Some small and young specimens of the Terebratula, like T. subundata
of Sowerby.</p>
<p>Miliolites centralis. <span class="smcap">Say.</span></p>
<p>12. Astrea. A species of very minute alveoles. From the state of the petrifaction
no radii are perceptible, so that the genus is not determinable.</p>
<p>Saltworks near Arrow Rock. Columnar segments of the Encrinus.</p>
<p>Inferior portion of the head of A. Pentramea. <span class="smcap">Say.</span></p>
<p>Segments of the column of an oval encrinus, much narrower in the middle
than the oval vertebra of an encrinite represented by Parkinson, Vol. 2. pl. 13.
f. 40.—resembling those of the genus <i>Platycrinites</i> of Miller.—<span class="smcap">James.</span></p>
</div></div>
<div class="footnotes">
<div class="fakeh3">Footnotes to Chapter VI:</div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_151" id="Footnote_151"></a><a href="#FNanchor_151"><span class="label">[139]</span></a> For Bissel, see Cuming's <cite>Tour</cite>, in our volume iv, note 182.</p>
<p>Charles Pentland, of Pennsylvania, served during the War of 1812-15 as
ensign and third lieutenant in the 4th Rifles. Retained in 1815, he was in 1821
transferred to the 6th Infantry, in which, two years later, he became captain.
He was dismissed in 1826.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_152" id="Footnote_152"></a><a href="#FNanchor_152"><span class="label">[140]</span></a> The Kansas River and its tributaries drain most of the state of the same
name. It heads in the prairies of eastern Colorado, and joins the Missouri at
the point where the latter enters the State of Missouri. It is still sometimes
called the Kaw. The name appears in various forms on early French maps—as
Cans, Rivière des Kancés, Rivière des Quans, etc.— <span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_153" id="Footnote_153"></a><a href="#FNanchor_153"><span class="label">[141]</span></a> The Little Platte (which the French called Petite Rivière Platte, or Little
Shallow River), rises in southern Iowa and flows south to its confluence with
the Missouri in Platte County. Its mouth is now opposite Diamond Island,
for the channels of the two rivers have, in their shifting, been brought together
several miles above the old confluence. The abandoned lower channel is still
visible.</p>
<p>Diamond Island is near the Kansas side of the Missouri, on the line between
Leavenworth and Wyandotte counties.</p>
<p>When Lewis and Clark passed this spot in 1804, the two smaller islands of
the group called Three Islands had but recently appeared. They are opposite
the mouth of Nine Mile Creek, five or six miles below Leavenworth. The
principal member of the group is Spar Island.</p>
<p>The Four Islands are in front of Leavenworth, and one of the largest has
the same name as the city.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_154" id="Footnote_154"></a><a href="#FNanchor_154"><span class="label">[142]</span></a> Isle au Vache (Isle des Vaches, Isle de Vache, Buffalo Island), now Cow
Island, is on the line between Atchison and Leavenworth counties.</p>
<p>Wyly Martin, a Tennesseean, had been captain in the 3d Rifle regiment
at the close of the War of 1812-15, and after an honorable discharge in 1815,
had been reinstated the same year. He was transferred to the 6th Infantry in
1821, and resigned two years later.</p>
<p>Lewis and Clark note the site of the Kansa village and French fort. The
former stood in a valley between two high elevations, and the latter was on
another elevation a mile in the rear. They found few traces of the village,
but there remained the general outline of the fortifications and some ruins of
chimneys. It was near this spot that Fort Leavenworth was established, in
1827. See Bradbury's <cite>Travels</cite>, in our volume v, note 37.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_155" id="Footnote_155"></a><a href="#FNanchor_155"><span class="label">[143]</span></a> For the early history of the Kansa, see Bradbury's <cite>Travels</cite>, in our volume
v, note 37.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_156" id="Footnote_156"></a><a
href="#FNanchor_156"><span class="label">[144]</span></a>
White Plume became the chief of the tribe, and some fifteen years later
was still in power. Catlin, in <cite>North American Indians</cite> (London, 1866), ii, p.
23, described him as urbane and hospitable, and of portly build.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_157" id="Footnote_157"></a><a href="#FNanchor_157"><span
class="label">[145]</span></a> The surprise of the Indians will hardly be cause for wonder, after reading
the following description of the "Western Engineer," which appeared in the
St. Louis <cite>Enquirer</cite>, June 19, 1819, ten days after the expedition arrived at that
place: "The bow of the vessel exhibits the form of a huge serpent, black and
scaly, rising out of the water from under the boat, his head as high as the deck,
darted forward, his mouth open, vomiting smoke, and apparently carrying the
boat on his back. From under the boat, at its stern issues a stream of foaming
water, dashing violently along. All the machinery is hid. . . . The
boat is ascending the rapid stream at the rate of three miles an hour. Neither
wind nor human hands are seen to help her; and to the eye of ignorance the
illusion is complete, that a monster of the deep carries her on his back smoking
with fatigue, and lashing the waves with violent exertion."</p>
<p>A resident of Franklin, Missouri, thus described the boat and the impression
it made upon the savages: "In place of a bowsprit, she has carved a great
serpent, and as the steam escapes out of its mouth, it runs out a long tongue,
to the perfect horror of all Indians that see her. They say, 'White man bad
man, keep a great spirit chained and build fire under it to make it work a
boat.'"—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_158" id="Footnote_158"></a><a href="#FNanchor_158"><span class="label">[146]</span></a> Willoughby Morgan, a Virginian, served during the War of 1812-15 as
captain and major of infantry. In 1815 he was retained in the rifle regiment
as captain, with brevet of major, becoming lieutenant-colonel in 1818. In
1821 he was transferred to the infantry; he became colonel of the 1st Infantry
in 1830, and died in 1832.</p>
<p>
"Lieutenant Fields" is probably Gabriel Field, whose army record is given
as follows in the registers: "Born in ——. Appointed from Mo. 2nd Lieut.
Rifles, 24 May, 1817; 1st Lieut., 15 April, 1818; transferred to 6th Infantry, 1
June, 1821; resigned 16 April, 1823."—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_159" id="Footnote_159"></a><a href="#FNanchor_159"><span class="label">[147]</span></a> Independence Creek owes its name to Lewis and Clark, who reached
this point on July 4, 1804. Its mouth is on the line between Atchison and
Doniphan counties, Kansas. Lewis and Clark named another small stream,
fifteen miles below, Fourth of July Creek. They also visited the site of the
Indian village here mentioned, and thought it must have been a large one,
judging from the remains.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_160" id="Footnote_160"></a><a href="#FNanchor_160"><span class="label">[148]</span></a> The color is due to the presence of yellow ochre.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_161" id="Footnote_161"></a><a href="#FNanchor_161"><span class="label">[149]</span></a> For data relative to the Nodaway River, see Bradbury's <cite>Travels</cite>, in our
volume v, note 5.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_162" id="Footnote_162"></a><a href="#FNanchor_162"><span class="label">[150]</span></a> The name of Wolf River or Creek (Rivière du Loup of early French
maps), is a translation of the Indian name. The stream debouches four miles
below the town of Iowa Point, in Doniphan County, Kansas.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_163" id="Footnote_163"></a><a
href="#FNanchor_163"><span class="label">[151]</span></a>
<i>Sciurus macrurus.</i> <span class="smcap">Say.</span>—<i>Body</i> above each side, mixed gray and black;
fur plumbeous, black at base, then pale cinnamon, then black, then cinereous,
with a long black tip; <i>ears</i> bright ferruginous behind, the colour extending to
the base of the fur, which, in its winter dress, is prominent beyond the edge;
within dull ferruginous, the fur slightly tipped with black; <i>side of the head and
orbits</i> pale ferruginous, cheek under the eye and ear dusky; <i>whiskers</i> black, in
about five series, of which the four inferior ones are more distinct, hairs a little
flattened; <i>mouth</i> margined with black; <i>teeth</i> reddish yellow; <i>head</i> beneath, <i>neck</i>
and <i>feet</i> above pale ferruginous; <i>belly</i> paler; fur pale plumbeous at base; <i>palms</i>
black; <i>toes</i>, anterior ones four, the thumb tubercle not longer than its lobe in
the palm, and furnished with a broad flat nail; posterior toes five; <i>tail</i> beneath
bright ferruginous, the colour extending to the base of the fur, with a submarginal
black line; above mixed ferruginous and black; fur within pale cinnamon,
with the base and three bands black; tip ferruginous.</p>
<table summary="Sciurus macrurus specimen measurements">
<tr>
<td align="left"></td>
<th align="right">ft.</th>
<th align="right">in.</th></tr>
<tr>
<td align="left">From nose to tip of tail (exclusive of the hair)</td>
<td align="right">1</td>
<td align="right">7¼</td></tr>
<tr>
<td align="left">Tail, from base to tip (exclusive of the hair)</td>
<td></td>
<td align="right"><span class="fraction">9<sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>10</sub></span></td></tr>
<tr>
<td align="left">Ear, from head to tip</td>
<td></td>
<td align="right">0¾</td></tr>
</table>
<p>The most common species of squirrel on the banks of the Missouri river. It
is allied to <i>S. cinereus</i>, but cannot be considered as a variety of that species;
neither does it approach any of the numerous varieties of the very variable <i>S.
capistratus</i> of Bosc.</p>
<p>The fur of the back in the summer dress is from <span
class="fraction"><sup>3</sup>⁄<sub>5</sub></span> to <span
class="fraction"><sup>7</sup>⁄<sub>10</sub></span> of an inch long;
but in the winter dress the longest hairs of the middle of the back are one inch and
<span class="fraction"><sup>3</sup>⁄<sub>4</sub></span> in length.
This difference in the length of the hairs, combined with a greater
portion of fat, gives to the whole animal a thicker and shorter appearance;
but the colours continue the same, and it is only in this latter season that the ears
are fringed, which is the necessary consequence of the elongation of the hair.
This species was not an unfrequent article of food at our frugal yet social meals
at Engineer Cantonment, and we could always immediately distinguish the bones
from those of other animals, by their remarkably red colour.</p>
<p>The tail is even more voluminous than that of the <i>S. cinereus</i>.</p>
<p>It seems to approach the <i>Sc. rufiventer</i>. <i>Geoff.</i> v. Dict. D. Hist. Nat. article
Ecu. p. 104.—<span class="smcap">James.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_164" id="Footnote_164"></a><a href="#FNanchor_164"><span class="label">[152]</span></a> See sketch of Charbonneau in Brackenridge's <cite>Journal</cite>, volume vi of our
series, note 3.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_165" id="Footnote_165"></a><a href="#FNanchor_165"><span class="label">[153]</span></a> Hay Cabin Creek and Blue Water are now known respectively as the
Little Blue River and Big Blue River (or Creek; not to be confounded with the
Big Blue of Kansas). Both debouche in Jackson County, Missouri. The
Warreruza is the modern Wakarusa (the meaning of which is variously given
as "thigh deep" and "river of big weeds"), which flows across Shawnee and
Douglas counties, Kansas, to the northeast corner of the latter. Full Creek (or
River) is the present Upper Mill Creek, another southern tributary of the Kansas,
the mouth of which is in northeastern Wabaunsee County, by a direct line
about fifty miles above the confluence of the Wakarusa. Pike's chart of 1806,
which Say's party possessed, shows Hay Cabin Creek, Blue Water, Warreruza,
and Full River successively, south of the Missouri and Kansas. There are
several other creeks, however, between the Blue Water and Warreruza which
Pike does not show, and the Warreruza is a larger stream than his chart indicates.
Say's party apparently mistook one of the small streams for the Warreruza,
and, upon reaching the latter, mistook it in turn for Full Creek. They
could hardly have traced the course of Full Creek from the lower Warreruza,
where they must have been on August eleventh. This error explains their
doubt, while encamped on the Kansas on August sixteenth, whether they were
above or below the Indian village, which is plainly shown on Pike's chart as
situated at the mouth of Blue Earth (Big Blue) River.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_166" id="Footnote_166"></a><a href="#FNanchor_166"><span class="label">[154]</span></a> When Say's party reached the Kansas, they had crossed Johnson and
Douglas counties, following the high prairie country which lies from six to fifteen
miles south of the river. The camp on the thirteenth was probably not far
from Lecompton; by the sixteenth, they must have been near Topeka.</p>
<p>Big Blue River (Blue Earth on the map), at the mouth of which the Kansa
village stood, rises in Nebraska, flows through Marshall County, Kansas, and
forms the boundary between Riley and Pottawatomie counties. Near the confluence,
a westward bend of the Big Blue forms a peninsula about two miles
long and half a mile wide, which was the site of the village. A few years ago
the exact locations of the lodges were still indicated by circular ridges and depressions,
from which a map of the village was prepared (see Kansas Historical
Society <cite>Transactions</cite>, 1881, p. 288). The site was partially abandoned in 1830,
and three villages constructed near Topeka; these in turn were abandoned
when the territory which contained them was ceded to the United States in
1846.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_167" id="Footnote_167"></a><a href="#FNanchor_167"><span class="label">[155]</span></a> The Vermillion is a Pottawatomie County stream about twenty miles
east of the Big Blue.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_168" id="Footnote_168"></a><a
href="#FNanchor_168"><span class="label">[156]</span></a>
Pike, p. 144.—<span class="smcap">James.</span></p>
<p><i>Comment by Ed.</i> The reference is to <cite>An Account of Expeditions to the
Sources of the Mississippi and through the Western Parts of Louisiana</cite>, etc.
(Philadelphia, 1810). Pike mediated a peace treaty between the Kansa and
Osage, at the Pawnee village on Republican River, September 28, 1806.</p>
</div></div>
<div class="footnotes">
<div class="fakeh3">Footnotes to Chapter VII:</div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_169" id="Footnote_169"></a><a href="#FNanchor_169"><span class="label">[157]</span></a> For sketch of the Missouri Indians, see Bradbury's <cite>Travels</cite>, in our volume
v, note 26.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_170" id="Footnote_170"></a><a href="#FNanchor_170"><span class="label">[158]</span></a> For a description of the dog dance of the Sioux, see Smithsonian Institution
<cite>Report</cite>, 1885, part ii, pp. 307, 308.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_171" id="Footnote_171"></a><a href="#FNanchor_171"><span class="label">[159]</span></a> Grasshopper Creek rises near the northern line of the state, its mouth
being in Jefferson County, opposite Lecompton. The name was changed to
Delaware River when the tribe of that name was removed to its lower course.</p>
<p>The route of the party on its return may have been across Pottawatomie
and Jackson counties, and through southern Atchison; or, more probably,
northern Jefferson and Leavenworth counties.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_172" id="Footnote_172"></a><a href="#FNanchor_172"><span class="label">[160]</span></a> Jessup's MS. Report.—<span class="smcap">James.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_173" id="Footnote_173"></a><a href="#FNanchor_173"><span class="label">[161]</span></a> The guilandina dioica of Linn., Marshall, &c. but referred by Michaux
to the new genus gymnocladus, of which it is the only well ascertained species.
It is common throughout the western states, and territories, and in Canada,
where it is called by the French Chicot, or stump tree, from the nakedness of its
appearance in winter. In the English gardens, where it has been cultivated
many years under the name of the hardy bonduc, it has attained considerable
magnitude, but has not hitherto been known to produce flowers.—<span class="smcap">James.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_174" id="Footnote_174"></a><a href="#FNanchor_174"><span class="label">[162]</span></a> <i>Fringilla grammaca</i>, <span class="smcap">Say</span>.—Above blackish-brown; <i>head</i> lineated;
beneath white, a black line from the inferior base of the inferior mandible,
above this a dilated white line; from the angle of the mouth proceeds a black
line, which is much dilated and ferruginous behind the eye, and terminates
in a contracted black line; a black line from the eye to the superior mandible,
enclosed, as well as the eye, by a dilated white line, which is more contracted
behind the eye; top of the head with two dilated lines, which are black on the
front and ferruginous on the crown and hind head, and separated from each
other by a cinereous line; interscapulars and lesser wing coverts margined with
dull cinereous or brownish; <i>wings</i> dusky brown, a white spot on the outer webs
of the second, third, and fourth primaries, near their bases; <i>back</i> dirty olive-brown;
<i>tail</i> rounded; <i>tail feathers</i> twelve, blackish-brown, two intermediate
ones immaculate, adjoining ones with a small white spot at tip, which, on the
lateral ones, increases in size until on the exterior one it occupies half of the
total length of the feather; the exterior web of the outer feather is white to its
base; <i>chin</i> and <i>throat</i> white; <i>neck</i> and <i>breast</i> dull cinereous; <i>abdomen</i> and <i>vent</i>
white; <i>feet</i> pale, tinged with orange; nail of the middle toe slightly dilated on the
inner side.</p>
<p>Length six and a quarter inches.</p>
<p>Shot at Belle Fontain on the Missouri. Many specimens were obtained.
The auriculars of the female are yellowish-brown. They run upon the ground
like a lark, seldom fly into a tree, and sing sweetly. They were subsequently
observed at Engineer Cantonment.—<span class="smcap">James.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_175" id="Footnote_175"></a><a
href="#FNanchor_175"><span class="label">[163]</span></a>
<i>Coluber obsoletus</i>, <span class="smcap">Say</span>.—<i>Body</i> black above, beneath whitish, with large
subquadrate black spots, which are confluent, and pale bluish towards the tail;
<i>throat</i> and <i>neck</i> pure white; <i>sides</i> between the scales with red marks.</p>
<p>Description. <i>Body</i> black, <i>anterior half</i> with a series of continuous, dilated
dull-red large circles, formed upon the skin between the scales, on the side;
on many of the scales, are white marginal dashes near their bases: these scales
are placed in groups each side of the vertebræ of the anterior moiety of the body;
<i>scales</i> bipunctured at tip; <i>beneath</i> flat, so as to produce an angle or carnia each
side; white slightly tinged with yellowish red, irrorate with black points, and
spotted with large oblong quadrate marks, which gradually become more continuous,
confluent and plumbeous towards the tail, occupying nearly the whole
surface; <i>head</i> beneath and <i>throat</i> pure white; posterior <i>canthus</i> of the eye two-scaled;
<i>iris</i> blackish; <i>pupil</i> deep-blued black, enclosed by a silvery line.</p>
<table summary="Coluber obsoletus specimen measurements">
<tr>
<td align="left">One specimen,</td>
<td align="left">Pl. 228 — Sc. 67 ?</td></tr>
<tr>
<td align="left">Another specimen</td>
<td align="left">Pl. 233 — Sc. 84</td></tr>
<tr>
<td align="left">Another specimen</td>
<td align="left">Pl. 228 — Sc. 84</td></tr>
<tr>
<td align="left">Total length —</td>
<td align="left">4 feet 11<span class="fraction"><sup>5</sup>⁄<sub>8</sub></span> inches.</td></tr>
<tr>
<td align="left">Tail length</td>
<td align="left">4 feet 10<span class="fraction"><sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>8</sub></span> inches.</td></tr>
</table>
<p>The lateral red marks are not perceptible, unless the skin be dilated so as
to separate the scales; and the small white marginal lines on the bases of some
of the scales are observable only on close inspection. It varies in being nearly
or quite destitute of spots on the anterior portion of the body beneath, but the
posterior half of the inferior surface still remains blackish. The whole animal
bears strong resemblance to C. <i>constrictor</i>; but the scales are decidedly smaller,
and the number of its plates and scales approach it still more closely to that uncertain
species C. <i>ovivorus</i>. It is not an uncommon species on the Missouri
from the vicinity of Isle au Vache to Council Bluff.</p>
<p>
<i>Penis</i> terminated by a hemisphere, covered with compressed, white spines,
which are reflected at tip; the series interrupted on the posterior side of the
member by a canal; <i>it</i> is much dilated, dark reddish brown, abruptly contracted
at base from the exterior side, and with a prominent tubercle on the middle of
the inner side: length one inch and a quarter, width about seven-sixteenths of
an inch.—<span class="smcap">James.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_176" id="Footnote_176"></a><a
href="#FNanchor_176"><span class="label">[164]</span></a> The Grand Nemahaw, now usually called Big Nemaha, does not rise
so far to the west as is here implied. Its sources are in Lancaster County,
Nebraska, almost directly north of the mouth of Republican River. The confluence
of the Big Nemaha is just above the Kansas-Nebraska line.</p>
<p>There are two streams (Big and Little) called Tarkio Creek. They flow parallel
through Atchison and Holt counties, Missouri. The mouth of the Big
Tarkio is opposite that of the Big Nemaha; that of the Little Tarkio is
now about eleven miles below, but the channel is very changeable. Tarkio is
said to mean "full of walnuts."—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_177" id="Footnote_177"></a><a
href="#FNanchor_177"><span class="label">[165]</span></a> The Little Nemaha flows through the Nebraska county of the same
name; its mouth is between the towns of Aspinwall and Nemaha.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_178" id="Footnote_178"></a><a
href="#FNanchor_178"><span class="label">[166]</span></a>
Nishnabotna is an Indian word signifying "canoe making river." Fifteen
years earlier, Lewis and Clark found the divide between the rivers about
three hundred yards wide. At that time the mouth of the Nishnabotna was on
the line between Atchison and Holt counties, Missouri. Since then its waters
have found their way across Grand Pass, and the old channel below that point
has been abandoned. In 1804 the main current of the Missouri ran north of
L'Isle Chauve (Bald Island), the middle of which lay opposite Grand Pass.
The channel now runs south of this island, while the Nishnabotna, reaching the
old channel of the Missouri at the middle of the island, follows it to the confluence
of the island's foot. This was the condition in 1879 (see <cite>Map of the
Missouri River</cite>, from the government survey, plates xx and xxi), but the channels
are constantly shifting.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_179" id="Footnote_179"></a><a href="#FNanchor_179"><span class="label">[167]</span></a> Lewis and Clark applied the name "Bald Hills" to "the ridge of naked
hills" here described, and "Bald-pated Prairie" to the low lands at their
base.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_180" id="Footnote_180"></a><a href="#FNanchor_180"><span class="label">[168]</span></a> Lewis and Clarke, vol. i. p. 28.—<span class="smcap">James.</span></p>
<p>
<i>Comment by Ed.</i> The reference is to Biddle's <cite>History of the Expedition
under the Command of Captains Lewis and Clark to the Sources of the Missouri</cite>,
etc. (Philadelphia, 1814). See also Thwaites, <cite>Original Journals of the Lewis
and Clark Expedition</cite> (New York, 1904).</p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_181" id="Footnote_181"></a><a href="#FNanchor_181"><span class="label">[169]</span></a> This velocity of current is equalled by that of the Cassiquiare in South
America, and probably surpassed by the Oronoko, the average descent of whose
bed is thirteen inches to the mile of 950 toises (6 feet 4.376 inches per toise).
See Humb. Pers. Nar. vol. v. p. 637, and vol. iv. p. 452. La Condamine and
Major Rennel suppose the mean descent of the Amazon and the Ganges,
scarce four or five inches to the mile, which is about equal to that of the Mississippi,
according to the most satisfactory estimates we have been able to make.—<span class="smcap">James.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_182" id="Footnote_182"></a><a href="#FNanchor_182"><span class="label">[170]</span></a> Platte River (sometimes called Flatwater and Nebraska, all three names
having the same meaning) is the largest tributary of the Missouri. It joins the
latter between Sarpy and Cass counties, Nebraska, 640.8 miles from the Mississippi.
Its mouth is taken as the line between the "upper" and "lower" Missouri.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_183" id="Footnote_183"></a><a href="#FNanchor_183"><span class="label">[171]</span></a> Species of apios, the glycine of Lin.—<span class="smcap">James.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_184" id="Footnote_184"></a><a href="#FNanchor_184"><span class="label">[172]</span></a> See Bradbury's <cite>Travels</cite>, in our volume v, note 40.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_185" id="Footnote_185"></a><a href="#FNanchor_185"><span class="label">[173]</span></a> The Mosquito is on the Iowa side, in Pottawatomie County, its mouth
being a few miles below Council Bluffs.</p>
<p>For the Oto Indians, Missouri Fur Company, and Manuel Lisa, see Bradbury's
<cite>Travels</cite>, in our volume v, notes 42, 149, 64 respectively. Lisa established
the post named for him, in 1812, and for a decade it was the most important
trading station on the Missouri. It stood about twenty miles above the present
town of Council Bluffs (Iowa), on the opposite side of the
river.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
</div></div>
<div class="footnotes">
<div class="fakeh3">Footnotes to Chapter VIII:</div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_186" id="Footnote_186"></a><a href="#FNanchor_186"><span class="label">[174]</span></a> The camp was in the southeast corner of Washington County, Nebraska.
Boyer River rises in Sac County, Iowa, flows southwest through Crawford and
Harrison counties, and debouches in Pottawatomie County, nearly opposite
the boundary between Washington and Douglas counties,
Nebraska.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_187" id="Footnote_187"></a><a
href="#FNanchor_187"><span class="label">[175]</span></a>
Height of the bluff, ascertained by Lieutenant Graham.</p>
<table summary="height of the bluff"><tr>
<td>Trigonometrically,</td>
<td>271 feet.</td></tr>
<tr>
<td>Barometrically,</td>
<td>277 feet.</td> </tr>
</table>
<p class="right">—James.</p>
</div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_188" id="Footnote_188"></a><a href="#FNanchor_188"><span class="label">[176]</span></a> We add some notices of a few of the most important.</p>
<p>1. <i>Terebratula.</i>—A specimen considerably resembling the T. <i>subundata</i> of
Sowerby, in the undulated line of the edges of the valves; but it is a much more
depressed shell, and of a much less rounded form.</p>
<p>In the young state, the undulation of the edge is not very distinct; but this
character increases with age, so that in the young state, it appears like a totally
different species from the adult.</p>
<p>2. In the same rock are very numerous arquated spines, like ribs of fish,
some of them 1½ inches long.</p>
<p>3. A fragment of a terebratula or productus, imbedded, with very long
spines, which may possibly be the same with the above.</p>
<p>4. A specimen, being a mass of comminuted fragments of shells, amongst
which are only recognizable a few segments of the column of the encrinus,
and minute turretted univalves of five whirls, which resemble turritella, and are
about one-twentieth of an inch long.</p>
<p>5. <i>Millepora cylindrica</i>, <span class="smcap">Say</span>.—Branched, cylindric; <i>pores</i> very regular,
alternate, oval, placed nearer to each other than the length of their own transverse
diameters, and resembling those of an <i>alveolite</i>.</p>
<p>Diameter, about one-tenth of an inch.</p>
<p>6. Segments of the column of encrinus of authors, of a pentangular form.</p>
<p>7. Ossiculæ of the body of a crinoid animal of the analogous species to
No. 21.</p>
<p>8. Fragment of Perna?</p>
<p>9. A mass of argillaceous sandstone, containing spines of a Linnæan echinus,
belonging probably to the genus cidarites of Lamarck. Of these spines some
are elongate-conic, others slightly fusiform, obtuse and slightly dilated near
the tip, both are armed with short asperities throughout their length. They
resemble in some degree those of the <i>cidarites pistillaris</i> of Lamarck, but they
are smaller, less fusiform, and the asperities are not prominent.</p>
<p>In the same mass are segments of encrinus, and fragments of the retepore.</p>
<p>10. Retepore, much resembling the <i>milleporites flustriformis</i> of Martin,
Petrif. Derbi. pl. 43. fig. 1 and 2., but the alveoles in our specimens are rather
smaller.</p>
<p>11. <i>Millepora cylindrica</i>, <span class="smcap">Say</span>.—Of the diameter of half an inch.</p>
<p>12. <i>Productus subserratus</i>, <span class="smcap">Say</span>.—Shell transverse, convex valve semicircular,
destitute of asperities or striæ, longitudinally indented in the middle; line
of the hinge rectilinear, half as long again as the length of the shell, with three
or four spines or serratures on each side towards the angle; <i>umbo</i> not prominent;
the beak hardly prominent beyond the line of the hinge. Length, more than
three-tenths; breadth, more than half an inch. A large specimen was four-fifths
of an inch wide.</p>
<p>If we except the beak, the outline of this shell, as respects the hinge margin
and the sides, considerably resembles that of P. <i>spinulosus</i> of Sowerby, but the
base is far more obtusely rounded, and it is a shorter shell comparatively with
its width. The serratures are very often broken off. The curvature of the
sides does not in the slightest degree project beyond the angles of the hinge line.</p>
<p>13. An imperfect cast, very like the <i>terebratula subundata</i> of Sowerby, and
of equal magnitude.</p>
<p>14. Pentagonal ossiculæ of the trunk of encrinus of authors, which in outline
may be compared to figs. 61 and 62, of plate 13. vol. 2. of Parkinson's Organic
Remains, but their surfaces do not now exhibit any sculpture.</p>
<p>15. Many of these shells exhibit the most unequivocal evidences of having
been in a plastic state, at some period or other, since their deposition in their present
situations. The fine striæ of a <i>productus lineolatus</i>, are so interlaced on the
middle of a valve of one of our specimens, as at once to convince every observer
of the shell having been thus partially dissolved, and when in this state to have
been gently rubbed by some other body, in two directions proceeding obliquely
to the same point, so as to throw the striæ in that part entirely out of their proper
longitudinal direction. It is very common to find shells unnaturally flattened,
or compressed in various ways and degrees, often without any fracture in the
shell or cast; a circumstance which certainly could never happen to the shell,
unless it was in a plastic state, or in a state of partial solution.</p>
<p>16. A specimen of carbonate of lime, on its surface a mass of sub-parallel
tubes, connected by short lateral processes. The whole much resembles, and
is probably congeneric with the erismatholithus tubiporites (<i>catenatus</i>) of Martin's
Petrif. Derbi. t. 42. fig. 2., but the connecting processes of the tubes are much
shorter than they are represented in that figure; but it corresponds much more
exactly with the tubiporite, figured by Parkinson in his Organic Remains, vol.
2. pl. 1. f. 1., and may with great propriety form a new genus, the type of which
will be the tubipora strues of Lin.</p>
<p>The genus is probably allied to favosites and tubipora.</p>
<p>17. <i>Trilobus.</i>—The abdomen of a species of this singular genus frequently
occurs in the sandstone of the Missouri; near Engineer Cantonment they were
very common. The largest was rather more than one inch long, by about one
and three-tenths inches in breadth at base; but the more general length is about
three-fourths of an inch. The tergum or intermediate lobe is narrow, being not
more than two-thirds of the width of the flanks, and much more convex than
those parts.</p>
<p>But a single specimen occurred, which we can, without any doubt, consider
as the thorax of a trilobus; but whether or not it appertains to the same species
with the above, or to some other of which we have no other fragment, we are
at a loss to determine. Like the above-mentioned abdomen, it is distinct from
any that we have seen figures of. It is of a narrow lunate form, highly convex,
the disk destitute of sculpture, and the eyes prominent.</p>
<p>18. Many imperfect casts of two different kinds of bivalve shells occur near
Engineer Cantonment, of which one may possibly have been a <i>cardita</i>.</p>
<p>19. Tooth of a squalus, which seems to approach nearest to those of <i>Sq.
maximus</i>, by its compressed conic form.</p>
<p>Greatest length 2<span class="fraction"><sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>10</sub></span> inches.</p>
<p>Thickness more than <span class="fraction"><sup>2</sup>⁄<sub>5</sub></span> of an inch.</p>
<p>The sides are rounded, without any appearance of serratures; thickened near
the tip, and more compressed near the base.</p>
<p>20. Tooth of a squalus, something like that of <i>S. galeus</i>, but less of a
triangular form, and the lateral processes are more distinct, and also less triangular
than in that species.</p>
<p>21. An imperfect body of a crinoid animal, <i>encrinite</i> of authors; the fragment
is about one-half of the inferior portion of the body, from which the following
description is made out, taking into view the whole circumference. The
plates composing the <i>first costal</i> series (Miller), five in number, are longitudinally
pentangular, much curved inwards towards the base, to join the <i>first columnar
joint</i>, or perhaps the <i>pelvis</i>; at which part the plate is narrow, being
about one-ninth of an inch, whilst the other sides are nearly three-tenths
of an inch each, the superior ones being somewhat longer than the others;
the <i>second costal plates</i>, (Miller,) five in number, are transversely pentangular,
the superior joint being long, the lateral ones shortest, the former
being one-half an inch in length, the latter <span
class="fraction"><sup>3</sup>⁄<sub>20</sub></span>,
and the inferior sides which articulate
to the segments of the pelvis, somewhat less than <span
class="fraction"><sup>3</sup>⁄<sub>10</sub></span> of an inch; the margins
of the first costal joints, as well as the superior margins of the segments of the
pelvis, are armed with a few tubercles, some of which seem to have been perforated;
all the superior pieces are wanting in our specimen, but the truncated
surface, on which the <i>scapulars</i> (Miller) rested, is of a pentagonal outline, and
composed of a series of horizontal equilateral triangles, two to each side, which
are separated on each side from the adjacent pairs by a deep groove, which
corresponds, and is nearly at right angles with the exterior sutures, which join
the first costal joints to each other; these triangular surfaces are also separated
from the exterior edge by two grooves, which are crenated, and enclose an
oblong foramina between them; a single <i>intercostal plate</i> occurs, interposed between
two of the <i>second costals</i>; it is of an oblong hexagonal form, its base resting
upon the extremity of a segment of the <i>first costals</i>, which is truncated to
receive it; the superior portion of this plate is much bent inward towards the
abdominal cavity; its tip is quadrate and concave.</p>
<p>The whole exterior surface of this reliquium, with the exception of the
tubercles, and sutural impressed lines, is plain and equable.</p>
<p>If we have not mistaken the pieces of this imperfect specimen, the pelvis
is wanting, but the cavity in which it existed must have been about <span class="fraction"><sup>3</sup>⁄<sub>20</sub></span> of an inch
in diameter.</p>
<p>The plate-like form of the ossiculæ, and their mode of articulation with
each other, by an extension horizontally inwards, as we have described above,
in the case of those plates which we have considered as the <i>second costals</i>, seem
to indicate, that this species ought to be referred to the second division of the
crinoidea, or <i>semiarticulata</i> of Miller. It certainly, however, cannot be at all
referred to poteriocrinites, the only genus which that author has framed in this
division of the family. We refrain from distinguishing it by a name either
generic or specific, until other specimens can be obtained, in which the characters
are less equivocal.</p>
<p>We have two <i>second costal plates</i>, which made part of distinct individuals,
larger than the above described one. Of these the surface of one is perfectly
glabrous, whilst that of the other has light orbicular indentations instead of
tubercles; a third very small one is perfectly smooth like the first, and doubtless
formed part of the body of a young individual.</p>
<p>Another plate found near the same spot with the above, is of a somewhat
triangular form exteriorly, or rather like the face of a truncated pyramid, of
which the middle of the summit is a little produced in the form of a right angle,
thus offering a scollop on each side of the apex for the adaptation of superior
ossiculæ. On divesting it carefully of its extraneous matrix, we discovered
that it was readily adjusted by its base to the summit of those segments of the
fragment above described, which we have supposed to be <i>second costals</i>, a prominent
line on its base corresponding with the inner one of those grooves which
we have described, to characterize the superior face of those plates. This
plate, then, agreeably to the relations in which we have viewed the preceding
pieces, must be a <i>scapula</i>; it is susceptible of considerable hinge-like motion,
and appears to have been much less firmly attached to the costals than the latter
are to each other.</p>
<p>A segment of a crinoid animal, which seemed to have been a <i>first costal
joint</i> of a <i>pentacrinus</i> of Parkinson, occurred near the same place.</p>
<p>22. <i>Productus pectinoides</i>, <span class="smcap">Say</span>.—Convex valve, with a central longitudinal
indentation; the whole surface is longitudinally ribbed, each rib being marked
by two striæ, in addition to the central carina.</p>
<p>The shell is not of frequent occurrence, and a perfect specimen has not yet
been obtained, but the portions we have examined, are sufficient to show that
it is perfectly distinct from either of the species we have mentioned. We do
not find any species figured or described by authors like it.</p>
<p>23. <i>Productus compressus</i>, <span class="smcap">Say</span>.—Shell much compressed, with numerous
acute striæ, upwards of fifty in number on each valve, the alternate ones rather
smaller; a very slight central longitudinal indentation on the convex valve;
outline suborbicular; hinge edge rectilinear, shorter than the greatest breadth
of the shell.</p>
<p>Greatest breadth from <span class="fraction"><sup>3</sup>⁄<sub>5</sub></span> to 1 inch. In its proportions it resembles the truncated
portion of the productus of Martin, as represented on his plate 22. fig. 3.
It is very common.</p>
<p>24. A shell of the length and breadth of three inches sometimes occurs,
the convex valve of which is transversely undulated, its umbo prominent, and
curved like that of a gryphæa, its tip resting on the base of the opposite valve
which is concave, with a transverse linear base; its muscular impressions seem
to have been lateral.</p>
<p>25. A single specimen was found of a valve of a shell, in some degree resembling
a pecten, but without the auricles. Length more than 2<span class="fraction"><sup>3</sup>⁄<sub>10</sub></span> inches.</p>
<p>26. <i>Productus lineolatus</i>, <span class="smcap">Say</span>.—Valves with numerous, fine, equal, equidistant,
longitudinal striæ, and a few small tubercles; convex valve very much
elongated, its basal portion is curved downwards, almost perpendicularly with
respect to the disk near the umbones.</p>
<p>So singular is the structure of this shell, that the internal cavity appears to
have been perfectly transverse, with respect to the general length of the shell,
and small in comparison with the length. It strongly resembles the anomites
productus of Martin, as represented on plate 22. fig. 102. of his Petrif. Derbi.,
and like that shell it is armed with small tubercles, though fewer in number,
and the striæ are much more numerous and smaller.</p>
<p>27. Cast of a turretted univalve, probably a cerithium, of the length of 2½
inches.</p>
<p>28. Cast of the anterior portion of a valve of a shell like an ostrea, of the
breadth of 2½ inches.</p>
<p>29. On the Missouri near the Platte, occur masses of rock, which seem to
be almost exclusively composed of a remarkable petrifaction, belonging to the
family of concamerated shells. This shell is elongated, fusiform, and when
broken transversely, it exhibits the appearance of numerous cells disposed spirally
as in the <i>nummulite</i>, but its longitudinal section displays only deep grooves.
The shell was therefore composed of tubes or syphons, placed parallel to each
other, and revolving laterally, as in the genus <i>melonis</i> of Lamarck, with which
its characters undoubtedly correspond. But as in the transverse fracture, its
spiral system of tubes cannot be traced to the centre in any of the numerous
specimens we have examined, it would seem to have a solid axis, and consequently
belongs to that division of the genus that Montfort regards as distinct,
under the name of <i>miliolites</i>, which seems to be similar to the <i>fasciolites</i> of Parkinson,
and altogether different from the miliolites of Lamarck. Our specimens
are conspicuously striated on the exterior, which distinction, together with their
elongated fusiform shape, sufficiently distinguish them as a species from the
<i>sabulosus</i> which Montfort describes as the type of his genus. No aperture is
discoverable in this shell, but the termination of the exterior volution very
much resembles an aperture as long as the shell.</p>
<p>The length is three-tenths of an inch; and its greatest breadth one-twelfth.</p>
<p>We call it <i>miliolites secalicus</i>, <span class="smcap">Say</span>.—Mr. T. Nuttall informs me, that he
observed it in great quantities high up the Missouri.</p>
<p>In the same mass were some segments of the encrinus, and a terebratula
with five or six obtuse longitudinal waves.</p>
<p>30. Another petrifaction, abundant in some fragments of compact carbonate
of lime, also found on the shores of the Missouri, possesses all the generic characters
which we have attributed to the preceding species, excepting that in the
transverse fracture the cells distinctly revolve from the centre itself, and of course
the shell was destitute of the solid nucleus as in melonis, <i>Lamarck</i>. It has about
four volutions. We have named this species, which is, notwithstanding the
difference of the central portion of the same genus with the preceding <i>miliolites
centralis, Say</i>. As in the preceding, it is entirely filled solidly with carbonate
of lime, and this substance being of a greater purity in the filled-up cavities of
the fossil than in the mass, its interior divisions are very obvious.</p>
<p>The latter species we observed about one hundred miles up the Konzas
river, where it forms the chief body of the rocks in extensive ranges. It seems
to be a carbonate of lime containing iron.—<span class="smcap">James.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_189" id="Footnote_189"></a><a href="#FNanchor_189"><span class="label">[177]</span></a> John Gale, of New Hampshire, was surgeon in the rifles. He entered
the army in 1812, as surgeon's mate in the 23d Infantry. After an honorable
discharge in 1815, he was the same year reinstated as surgeon's mate in the 3d
Infantry, and in 1818 made surgeon in the rifles. Three years later he became
major-surgeon. He died in 1830.</p>
<p>Matthew J. Magee was captain of a Pennsylvania company of volunteers
during the first two years of the War of 1812-15. In 1814 he was made captain
in the 4th Rifles. After being discharged at the close of the war, he was reinstated
(1816) as first lieutenant of ordnance with brevet rank as captain. A little
later he was made captain, and in 1818 was transferred to the rifles. In 1821
he was transferred to the infantry. His death occurred in 1824.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_190" id="Footnote_190"></a><a href="#FNanchor_190"><span class="label">[178]</span></a> Ietan, as he was called by the whites, is said to have been the son of Big
Horse (Shonga-tonga). The name may have been given him for some exploit
against the Ietan (Comanche) tribe. His Indian name (Shamonekusse, Shongmunecuthe)
means Prairie Wolf. In 1821-22 Ietan accompanied a deputation
of chiefs to the East; the Indians made careful observations of what they saw,
after their own fashion, and, it is said, attempted to count the people of New
York by means of notched sticks. Among his fellows Ietan was noted for his
wit and sagacity, as well as for warlike prowess. His death resulted (April, 1837)
from a wound received while pursuing some young braves who had seduced
two of his wives.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_191" id="Footnote_191"></a><a href="#FNanchor_191"><span class="label">[179]</span></a> The Ietan Indians, more commonly known as Comanche, were a branch
of the Shoshoni family. Their range was the upper Arkansas, Canadian, and
Red rivers.</p>
<p>On the Pawnee and Pawnee Loups, see respectively Brackenridge's <cite>Journal</cite>,
in our volume vi, note 17, and Bradbury's <cite>Travels</cite>, in our volume v, note 44.
The Pawnee nation consisted of four principal tribes: 1. Pawnee proper (Grand
Pawnee); 2. Pawnee Republican, who dwelt on the Republican fork of Kansas
River; 3. Tapage, on the Platte; 4. Pawnee Loups (Skidi; Pani-mahas).</p>
<p>The Omaha and Ponca were closely related tribes of Siouan stock. For
their early history and present condition, see our volume v, notes 49, 63.</p>
<p>The Sioux (Dakota) were the chief branch of the great family to which they
have given their name. The branch was divided into a number of tribes, including
the Yankton and Teton, mentioned below in the text.</p>
<p>Sketches of the Osage, Sauk and Foxes, and Iowa will be found in our
volume v, notes 21, 22.</p>
<p>The Padouca were a powerful tribe when visited by Bourgmont in 1724 (see
succeeding volume, note 29), but the nation disintegrated and lost its identity
before the close of the eighteenth century, if, indeed, the name was not from the
beginning applied collectively to several kindred tribes of the plains. Their
habitat was the banks of the upper Kansas River; later they removed to the
Platte, the North Fork of which is sometimes designated by their name.</p>
<p>The Indians here called La Plais (La Playes) were reported by Lewis and
Clark (<cite>Statistical View</cite>) to be a numerous tribe of Shoshoni stock, inhabiting
the plains at the heads of the Arkansas and Red rivers. Later authorities seem
not to have distinguished them from the kindred Comanche.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_192" id="Footnote_192"></a><a href="#FNanchor_192"><span class="label">[180]</span></a> The Indian name for Americans. On the origin of the term, see Thwaites,
<cite>Daniel Boone</cite> (New York, 1902), p. 111, note.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_193" id="Footnote_193"></a><a href="#FNanchor_193"><span class="label">[181]</span></a> This quarrel, and the resulting loss of part of the nose of one of the contestants,
has given rise to a number of fables. In one of them Ietan and his
brother are the combatants, and it is Ietan who loses the tip of his nose. In
his thirst for revenge he pursues his brother across the plains and through the
forest, both in friendly and hostile villages, only to fall a prey to bitter remorse
when, after many months, he overtakes the fugitive and slays him.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_194" id="Footnote_194"></a><a href="#FNanchor_194"><span class="label">[182]</span></a> Elkhorn River (Corne de Cerf, of the French explorers) is a considerable
northern tributary of the Platte, into which it falls on the western line of Sarpy
County. The head waters are only a few miles from the Niobrara River, in
Rock County.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_195" id="Footnote_195"></a><a href="#FNanchor_195"><span class="label">[183]</span></a> One of the half-breed sons of Pierre Dorion (Durion), who accompanied
Lewis and Clark as interpreter. See Bradbury's <cite>Travels</cite>, in our volume v,
note 7.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_196" id="Footnote_196"></a><a href="#FNanchor_196"><span class="label">[184]</span></a> Red-head was the customary Indian name for Governor William Clark,
and St. Louis was "Red-head's Town." For sketch of Clark, see Nuttall's
<cite>Journal</cite>, in our volume xiii, note 105.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_197" id="Footnote_197"></a><a href="#FNanchor_197"><span class="label">[185]</span></a> It was a party of the Grand Pawnees that robbed and ill-treated Lieutenant
Pike and his party, when traversing the country within their range.—<span class="smcap">James.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_198" id="Footnote_198"></a><a href="#FNanchor_198"><span class="label">[186]</span></a> See Appendix C at the end of volume xvii.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_199" id="Footnote_199"></a><a
href="#FNanchor_199"><span class="label">[187]</span></a>
1. <i>Sorex parvus</i>, <span class="smcap">Say</span>.—Brownish
cinereous above; beneath cinereous;
teeth blackish; tail short, of moderate thickness.</p>
<p><i>Body</i> above brownish cinereous, beneath cinereous; <i>head</i> elongated; <i>eyes</i> and
<i>ears</i> concealed; <i>whiskers</i> long, the longest nearly attaining the back of the head;
<i>nose</i> naked emarginate; <i>front teeth</i> black, lateral ones piceous; <i>feet</i> whitish, five-toed;
<i>nails</i> prominent, acute, white; <i>tail</i> short, subcylindric, of moderate thickness,
slightly thicker in the middle, whitish beneath.</p>
<table summary="Sorex parvus specimen measurements">
<tr>
<td>Length from tip of nose to root of tail,</td>
<td>2 <span class="fraction"><sup>3</sup>⁄<sub>8</sub></span> inches.</td></tr>
<tr>
<td>Length of tail,</td>
<td>0 <span class="fraction"><sup>3</sup>⁄<sub>4</sub></span> inches.</td></tr>
<tr>
<td>Length from the upper teeth to tip of nose,</td>
<td><span class="fraction">0 <sup>3</sup>⁄<sub>20</sub> inches.</span></td></tr>
</table>
<p>Mr. Peale caught this animal in a pitfall, which he had dug for the purpose
of catching a wolf. It is a female.</p>
<p>Barton, in his Medical and Physical Journal for 1806, p. 67, says, that,
"Sorex minutissimus of Zimmerman, has been discovered in the trans-Mississippi
part of the United States, in the country that is watered by the Missouri;"
—had he reference to this species?</p>
<p>This <i>sorex minutissimus</i>, is probably synonymous with S. <i>exilis</i>, to which
our specimens cannot be referred, whilst the character attributed to that species,
of "tail very thick in the middle," is considered essential.</p>
<p>2. <i>Sorex brevicaudus</i>, <span class="smcap">Say</span>.— Blackish-plumbeous above, beneath rather
lighter; teeth, blackish; tail, short, robust.</p>
<table summary="Sorex brevicaudus speciment measurements">
<tr>
<td align="left">Total length from nose to tip of tail,</td>
<td align="left">4<span class="fraction"><sup>5</sup>⁄<sub>8</sub></span> inch.</td></tr>
<tr>
<td align="left">Total length of the tail,</td>
<td align="left">1</td></tr>
<tr>
<td align="left">Total length from the upper teeth to the tip of nose,</td>
<td align="left">0<span class="fraction"><sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>8</sub></span></td></tr>
</table>
<p><i>Above</i> blackish plumbeous, when viewed from before; silvery plumbeous
when viewed from behind; <i>fur</i> dense, rather long; <i>beneath</i> rather paler; <i>head</i>
large; <i>eyes</i> very minute; <i>ears</i> white, entirely concealed beneath the fur, aperture
very large, with two distinct semisepta, (tragus and antitragus?) which are
sparsely hairy at tip; <i>rostrum</i> short, with a slightly impressed, abbreviated line
above; <i>nose</i> livid brown, emarginate; <i>mouth</i> margined with whitish and with
sparse short hairs; <i>teeth</i> piceous-black at tip; <i>feet</i>, white, the second, third, and
fourth toes subequal, the first and fifth shorter, the former rather shortest,
anterior with but very few hairs, nearly naked; <i>nails</i> nearly as long as the toes;
<i>tail</i> with rather sparse hairs, nearly of equal diameter, but slightly thickest in
the middle, depressed, and nearly as long as the posterior feet.</p>
<p>This specimen, which is a male, closely resembles <i>S. parvus</i>, but it is much
larger; the head is proportionably much larger and more elongated; the tail
more robust, and the inferior anterior pair of incisores are similar to those of
S. <i>constrictus</i>, fig. 7. pl. 15. of the Mem. du Mus. by Mr. Geoffroy St. Hilaire.
The incisors of the superior jaw are twelve in number, in a cranium belonging
to this species, five on each side in addition the two larger anterior ones; the
posterior tooth of the lateral ones is smallest.</p>
<p>May not this be the animal mentioned by the late professor Barton in his
Medical and Physical Journal, for March, 1816, which, he says, "may be called
the black shrew?" I do not know that the black shrew has ever received any
further notice, unless it is the same species to which Mr. Ord has applied the
name of <i>Sorex niger</i>.—<span class="smcap">James.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_200" id="Footnote_200"></a><a href="#FNanchor_200"><span
class="label">[188]</span></a> See Thwaites, <cite>Original Journals of the
Lewis and Clark Expedition</cite>,
Appendix, vol. vii, doc. xviii.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
</div></div>
<div class="footnotes">
<div class="fakeh3">Footnotes to Chapter IX:</div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_201" id="Footnote_201"></a><a href="#FNanchor_201"><span class="label">[189]</span></a> I. <i>Vespertilio pruinosus.</i>—Ears large, short, not so long as the head,
hairy on the exterior side more than half their length; <i>tragus</i> very obtuse at tip,
arcuated; <i>canine teeth</i> large, prominent; <i>incisors</i>, only one distinct one on each
side, placed very near the canine, conic, almost on a line with it, and furnished
with a small tubercle on its exterior base; <i>nostrils</i> distant; <i>fur</i> of the back, long,
black brown at base, then pale brownish-yellow, then blackish, then white;
towards the rump dark ferruginous takes the place of the brownish-yellow on
the fur; <i>beneath</i> the colours are similar to those of the back; but on the anterior
portion of the breast the fur is not tipped with white, and on the throat it is dull
yellowish-white dusky at base; the brachial membrane is densely hairy on the
anterior margin beneath; interfemoral membrane covered with fur: length nearly
4½ inches.</p>
<p>This bat is common in this region, and was observed by Mr. Thomas Nuttall
at Council Bluffs. It is a fine large species, and remarkable for its many-coloured
fur. It has much affinity with the New York bat, (V. novaboracensis,) but is
more than double its size, and is distinguished from it by many minor characters.</p>
<p>The late professor Barton, presented a specimen of this bat to the Philadelphia
museum, that had been captured in Philadelphia.</p>
<p>2. <i>Vespertilio arquatus.</i>—<i>Head</i> large, <i>ears</i> rather shorter than the head,
wide, and at tip, rounded, hairy at base, posterior edge with two slight and very
obtuse emarginations; the anterior base distant from the eye; <i>tragus</i> arquated,
obtuse at tip; interfemoral membrane naked, including the tail to one half of
the penultimate joint.</p>
<p>Total length 5 inches: tail 1½ inches.</p>
<p>Expansion more than 13 inches.</p>
<p>This bat might be readily mistaken for the Carolina bat, (V. carolinensis,
Geoff.) which it resembles in colour, but differs from it in being of a larger size,
the ears broader and proportionally shorter, and an arquated tragus, curving in
an almost luniform manner towards the anterior portion of the ear, like that of
the V. <i>serotinus</i>, Daub. Geoff., though not so broad. The upper incisor teeth,
like those of several of our species of bats, are not prominent; they are very
much inclined forward, and do not rise at their tips above the level of the intermediate
callosity.—<span class="smcap">James.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_202" id="Footnote_202"></a><a href="#FNanchor_202"><span class="label">[190]</span></a>
1. <i>Canis latrans.</i>—Cinereous or gray, varied with black above, and dull
fulvous, or cinnamon; <i>hair</i> at base dusky plumbeous, in the middle of its length
dull cinnamon, and at tip gray or black, longer on the vertebral line; <i>ears</i> erect,
rounded at tip, cinnamon behind, the hair dark plumbeous at base, inside lined
with gray hair; <i>eyelids</i> edged with black, superior eyelashes black beneath, and
at tip above; supplemental lid margined with black-brown before, and edged
with black-brown behind; <i>iris</i> yellow; <i>pupil</i> black-blue; spot upon the lachrymal
sac black-brown; rostrum cinnamon, tinctured with grayish on the nose; <i>lips</i>
white, edged with black, three series of black seta; <i>head</i> between the ears intermixed
with gray, and dull cinnamon, hairs dusky plumbeous at base; <i>sides</i> paler
than the back, obsoletely fasciate with black above the legs; <i>legs</i> cinnamon on
the outer side, more distinct on the posterior hair: a dilated black abbreviated
line on the anterior ones near the wrist; <i>tail</i> bushy, fusiform, straight, varied
with gray and cinnamon, a spot near the base above, and tip black: the tip of
the trunk of the tail, attains the tip of the os calcis, when the leg is extended;
<i>beneath</i> white, immaculate; <i>tail</i> cinnamon towards the tip, tip black; posterior
feet four-toed, anterior five-toed.</p>
<table summary="Canis latrans speciment measurements">
<tr>
<td align="left"></td>
<th align="right">ft.</th>
<th align="right">in.</th>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="left">Total length (excepting the hair at tip of tail)</td>
<td align="right">3</td>
<td align="right">9½</td></tr>
<tr>
<td align="left">Trunk of the tail</td>
<td align="right">1</td>
<td align="right">0½</td></tr>
<tr>
<td align="left">Hind foot os calcis to tip of claw</td>
<td align="right">0</td>
<td align="right">7<span class="fraction"><sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>5</sub></span></td></tr>
<tr>
<td align="left">Fore foot elbow to tip of claw</td>
<td align="right">1</td>
<td align="right">0¾</td></tr>
<tr>
<td align="left">Ears from top of head</td>
<td align="right">0</td>
<td align="right">4</td></tr>
<tr>
<td align="left">Rostrum from anterior can thus of the eye</td>
<td align="right">0</td>
<td align="right">3¾</td></tr>
</table>
<p>Taken in a trap, baited with the body of a wild cat.</p>
<p>The line on the anterior side of the anterior feet, near the wrist, is wanting in a
second specimen.</p>
<p>This species varies very much in size; another specimen measured—</p>
<table summary="Canis latrans second speciment measurements">
<tr>
<td align="left"></td>
<th align="right">ft.</th>
<th align="right">in.</th></tr>
<tr>
<td align="left">In total length (excepting the hair at tip of tail)</td>
<td align="right">3</td>
<td align="right">2½</td></tr>
<tr>
<td align="left">Tail (excepting the hair at tip of tail)</td>
<td align="right">0</td>
<td align="right">11¾</td></tr>
<tr>
<td align="left">Ear from top of head to tip</td>
<td align="right">0</td>
<td align="right">3<span class="fraction"><sup>5</sup>⁄<sub>8</sub></span></td></tr>
</table>
<p>The snout was narrower than in the preceding specimens, but in colour
similar.</p>
<p>Another specimen was destitute of the cinnamon colour, excepting on the
snout, where it was but slightly apparent; the general colour was, therefore,
gray with an intermixture of black, in remote spots and lines, varying in
position and figure with the direction of the hair.</p>
<p>2. <i>Canis nubilus.</i>—Dusky, the hair cinereous at base, then brownish-black,
then gray, then black; the proportion of black upon the hair is so considerable
as to give to the whole animal a much darker colour than the darkest of the
<i>latrans</i>; but the gray of the hairs combining with the black tips, in the general
effect, produce a mottled appearance; the gray colour, predominates on the
lower part of the sides; <i>ears</i> short, deep brownish-black, with a patch of gray
hair on the anterior side within; <i>muzzle</i> blackish above; <i>superior lips</i>, anterior
to the canine teeth, gray; <i>inferior jaw</i> at tip, and extending in a narrowed line
backwards, nearly to the origin of the neck, gray; <i>beneath</i> dusky ferruginous,
greyish, with long hair between the hind thighs, and with a large white spot on
the breast; the ferruginous colour is very much narrowed on the neck, but is
dilated on the lower part of the cheeks; <i>legs</i> brownish-black, with but a slight
admixture of gray hairs, excepting on the anterior edge of the hind thighs, and
the lower edgings of the toes, where the gray predominates; the <i>tail</i> is short,
fusiform, a little tinged with ferruginous black above, near the base and at tip,
the tip of the trunk hardly attaining to the os calcis; the longer hairs of the back,
particularly over the shoulders, resemble a short sparse mane.</p>
<table summary="Canis nubilus speciment measurements">
<tr>
<td align="left"></td>
<th align="right">ft.</th>
<th align="right">in.</th></tr>
<tr>
<td align="left">Length from the tip of the nose to the origin of the tail</td>
<td align="right">4</td>
<td align="right">3¾</td></tr>
<tr>
<td align="left">Length of the trunk of the tail</td>
<td align="right">1</td>
<td align="right">1</td></tr>
<tr>
<td align="left">Ear, from anterior angle to the tip</td>
<td align="right">0</td>
<td align="right">3¾</td></tr>
<tr>
<td align="left">From the anterior angle of the ear, to the posterior canthus of the eye,</td>
<td align="right">0</td>
<td align="right">4¾</td></tr>
<tr>
<td align="left">From anterior canthus of the eye, to the middle of the tip of the nose,</td>
<td align="right">0</td>
<td align="right">5½</td></tr>
<tr>
<td align="left">Between the anterior angles of the ears, rather more than</td>
<td align="right">0</td>
<td align="right">3</td></tr>
</table>
<p>The aspect of this animal is far more fierce and formidable than either the
common red wolf, or the prairie wolf, and is of a more robust form. The length
of the ears and tail distinguish it at once from the former, and its greatly superior
size, besides the minor characters of colour, &c., separate it from the prairie
wolf. As the black wolf (C. lycaon,) is described to be of a deep and uniform
black colour, and his physiognomy is represented to be nearly the same as that
of the common wolf, it is beyond a doubt different from this species. It has
the mane of the <i>mexicanus</i>. It diffuses a strong and disagreeable odour, which
scented the clothing of Messrs. Peale and Dougherty, who transported the animal
several miles from where they killed it to the cantonment.</p>
<p>1. <i>Sylvia celatus.</i>—<i>Above</i> dull greenish-olive; <i>rump</i> and <i>tail coverts</i> purer
greenish-olive; <i>primaries</i> and <i>tail feathers</i> blackish-brown, olive-green on the
exterior margins, and white on the interior margin; <i>head</i> very slightly and inconspicuously
crested; <i>crest</i> with the feathers orange at base; <i>bill</i> horn colour,
slender, base of the inferior mandible whitish beneath; <i>beneath</i> olivaceous yellow;
<i>inferior tail coverts</i> pure yellow; <i>legs</i> dusky.</p>
<p>Length 5¼ inches.</p>
<p>Shot at Engineer Cantonment early in May. This bird is distinguished by
the colour of the feathers on the crown of the head, which are of a fulvous colour,
tipped with the same colour as that of the neck and back, so that the fulvous
colour does not appear at first sight. The wings are destitute of any white band,
and the margins of the six exterior primaries are much paler than those of the
others. We cannot find any description of this bird; it seems, however, to
approach nearest to the S. <i>leucogastra</i>, Steph., Nashville warbler of Wilson; but
in our specimen the belly is not white, neither does Wilson's description of
the colour of the head of his Nashville warbler agree at all with that of our
bird.</p>
<p>2. <i>Sylvia bifasciata.</i>—Above bluish; all beneath white; <i>head</i> highly varied
with darker; between the eyes and bill blackish; <i>bill</i> black; <i>interscapulars</i> lineate
with blackish; <i>wings</i> blackish; <i>shoulders</i> bluish; <i>wing coverts</i> with two white
bands; <i>primaries</i> margined with white on the inner side, and with plumbeous
on the exterior side; <i>tail</i> black; <i>feathers</i> blackish, white on the inner margin, and
plumbeous on the exterior margin; and, excepting the two middle ones, with a
white spot on the inner side, near the tip; <i>flanks</i> spotted with plumbeous; <i>feet</i>
black.</p>
<p>Length rather more than 4¾ inches.</p>
<p>Shot in May, near Engineer Cantonment. This species seems to approach
very closely to S. cærulea.</p>
<p><i>Genus Limosa</i>, <span class="smcap">Cuv.</span></p>
<p><i>Limosa scolopacea.</i>—Dusky cinereous; <i>bill</i>, straight; upper mandible a little
longer, and very slightly arquated towards the tip; the grooves continue to near
the tip, about as long again as the head, yellowish green; <i>tip</i> black, dilated,
rugose, with a dorsal groove; <i>palate</i> with reflected, cartilaginous spines; <i>head</i>
with a line from the upper mandible, passing over the eye and inferior orbit;
white <i>cheeks</i>, <i>chin</i>, <i>throat</i>, and origin of the <i>breast</i>, cinereous; the plumage margined
with dull whitish; <i>back</i> beneath the interscapulars, white; <i>rump</i>, plumage
white, fasciate with black; <i>tail coverts</i>, and <i>tail</i> white fasciate with black, which
latter colour is more abundant; <i>lesser wing coverts</i> margined with whitish;
<i>greater wing coverts</i> black, terminal margin white: <i>secondaries</i> black, margin and
submargin white; <i>primaries</i> black, interior ones very slightly edged with white;
<i>outer shaft</i> white, a little longer than the second; <i>breast</i> and <i>belly</i> white; <i>sides</i>
spotted or undulated with blackish cinereous; <i>inferior tail coverts</i> with black
abbreviated bands, the white prevailing; <i>feet</i> dirty greenish; <i>toes</i> webbed at base,
the exterior one reaching the first joint of outer toe, the interior one very short;
<i>hind toe</i> rather long.</p>
<table summary="Limosa scolopacea speciment measurements">
<tr>
<td align="left"></td>
<th align="right">inches.</th></tr>
<tr>
<td align="left">Length from tip of bill to that of the tail,</td>
<td align="right">11¾</td></tr>
<tr>
<td align="left">Length of bill,</td>
<td align="right">2¾</td></tr>
<tr>
<td align="left">Length of feet,</td>
<td align="right">5¾</td></tr>
<tr>
<td align="left">Length from the knee to the origin of the feathers,</td>
<td align="right">1<span class="fraction"><sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>10</sub></span></td></tr>
</table>
<p>Tail projecting more than one inch beyond the tip of the wing.</p>
<p>Several specimens were shot in a pond near the Bowyer creek. Corresponds
with the genus scolopax, Cuv. in having the dorsal grooves at the tip of the upper
mandible, and in having this part dilated and rugose; but the eye is not large,
nor is it placed far back upon the head; which two latter characters, combined
with its more elevated and slender figure, and the circumstance of the thighs
being denudated of feathers high above the knee, and the exterior toe being united
to the middle toe by a membrane, which extends as far as the first joint, and
the toes being also margined, combine to distinguish this species from those of
the genus to which the form and characters of its bill would refer it, and approach
it more closely to <i>limosa</i>. In one specimen the two exterior primaries
on each wing were light brown, but the quills were white. It may perhaps with
propriety be considered as the type of a new genus, and under the following
characters, be placed between the genera scolopax and limosa.</p>
<p><i>Bill</i> longer than the head, dilated and rugose at tip: <i>tip</i> slightly curved downwards,
and with a dorsal groove: <i>nasal groove</i> elongated; <i>feet</i> long, an extensive
naked space above the knee; <i>toes</i> slightly margined, a membrane connecting the
basal joints of the exterior toes; first of the primaries rather longest.</p>
<p><i>Genus Pelidna</i>, <span class="smcap">Cuv.</span></p>
<p>1. <i>Pelidna pectoralis.</i>—<i>Bill</i> black, reddish-yellow at base; upper mandible
with a few indented punctures near the tip; <i>head</i> above black, plumage margined
with ferruginous, a distinct brown line from the eye to the upper mandible;
<i>cheeks</i> and <i>neck</i> beneath cinereous very slightly tinged with rufous, and lineate
with blackish; <i>orbits</i> and line over the eye white; <i>chin</i> white; <i>neck</i> above dusky,
plumage margined with cinereous, <i>scapulars</i>, <i>interscapulars</i>, and <i>wing coverts</i>
black, margined with ferruginous, and near the exterior tips with whitish; <i>primaries</i>
dusky, slightly edged with whitish, outer quill shaft white; <i>back</i>, (beneath
the interscapulars, <i>rump</i>) and <i>tail coverts</i> black, immaculate; <i>tail feathers</i> dusky,
margined with white at tip, two intermediate ones longest, acute, attaining the
tip of the wings, black, edged with ferruginous: <i>breast</i>, <i>venter</i>, <i>vent</i> and <i>inferior
tail coverts</i> white, plumage blackish at base; <i>sides</i> white, the plumage towards
the tail slightly lineate with dusky; <i>feet</i> greenish-yellow; <i>toes</i> divided to the base.</p>
<table summary="Pelidna pectoralis specimen measurements">
<tr><td>Length nearly</td> <td> 9 inches.</td></tr>
<tr><td>Bill</td> <td>1<span class="fraction"><sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>8</sub></span> inches</td></tr>
</table>
<p>This bird in many respects resembles <i>cinclus</i>, but as the average size of that
bird is stated at seven inches and one or two lines, ours is doubtless a distinct
species. Many flocks of them were seen at Engineer Cantonment, both in the
spring and autumn, the individuals of which corresponded in point of magnitude:
we add a description for the information of ornithologists. It is described
from a specimen in the autumnal plumage. In the spring dress, the colour of
the superior part of the bird is much paler, almost destitute of black, and the
feathers are brownish, margined with pale cinereous; the superior part of the
head is always darker than any part of the neck, and margined with ferruginous;
the plumage of the neck beneath, and the breast, does not appear to be subject
to so much change, as that of the superior part of the body.</p>
<p>2. <i>Pelidna cinclus.</i> <span class="smcap">Var.</span>—Above blackish-brown, plumage edged with
cinereous, or whitish; <i>head</i> and <i>neck</i> above cinereous with dilated fuscous lines;
<i>eyebrows</i> white; a brown line between the eye and corner of the mouth, above
which the front is white; <i>cheeks</i>, <i>sides of the neck</i>, and <i>throat</i>, cinereous, lineate
with blackish-brown; <i>bill</i> short, straight, black; <i>chin</i>, <i>breast</i>, <i>belly</i>, <i>vent</i>, and <i>inferior
tail coverts</i> pure white, plumage plumbeous at base; <i>scapulars</i> and <i>lesser
wing coverts</i> margined with white; <i>greater wing coverts</i> with a broad white tip;
<i>primaries</i> surpassing the tip of the tail, blackish, slightly edged with whitish,
exterior shaft white, shafts whitish on the middle of their length; <i>rump</i> blackish,
plumage margined at tip with cinereous tinctured with rufous; <i>tail coverts</i> white,
submargins black; <i>tail feathers</i> cinereous margined with white, two middle ones
slightly longer, black, margined with white; <i>legs</i> blackish. A male.</p>
<table summary="Pelidna cinclus specimen measurements">
<tr><td>Length to tip of tail</td> <td>7 inches.</td></tr>
<tr><td>Bill </td> <td><span class="fraction"><sup>7</sup>⁄<sub>8</sub></span> of an inch.</td></tr>
</table>
<p>This bird was shot in November, near Engineer Cantonment, and it is probably
a variety of the very variable <i>cinclus</i> in its winter plumage.—<span class="smcap">James.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_203" id="Footnote_203"></a><a href="#FNanchor_203"><span class="label">[191]</span></a> A sketch of Big Elk is given in Bradbury's <cite>Travels</cite>, volume v of our series,
note 52.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_204" id="Footnote_204"></a><a href="#FNanchor_204"><span class="label">[192]</span></a> Some reminiscences of White Cow (or White Buffalo), will be found in
Nebraska Historical Society <cite>Transactions</cite>, i, p. 79 <i>et seq.</i>—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_205" id="Footnote_205"></a><a
href="#FNanchor_205"><span class="label">[193]</span></a>
Joshua Pilcher was a Virginian who came to St. Louis when a young man,
during the War of 1812-15, and there plied his trade of hatter. He became a
director of the bank of St. Louis, and entered the Missouri Fur Company
upon its organization, succeeding Manuel Lisa as president upon the latter's
death. Upon the dissolution of this company, he was for a time at Council
Bluffs in charge of the American Fur Company's interests. He succeeded
William Clark as superintendent of Indian affairs (1838), holding the position
until his death, in 1847.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_206" id="Footnote_206"></a><a
href="#FNanchor_206"><span class="label">[194]</span></a>
<i>Coluber flaviventris.</i>—Olivaceous, beneath yellow; inferior jaw beneath
white; scales destitute of carina.</p>
<p>Description. <i>Body</i> above, olivaceous; tinged with brown on the vertebræ;
<i>scales</i> impunctured at tip, posterior edges and basal edge black; <i>skin</i> black,
beneath yellow, rather paler behind; <i>inferior jaw</i> beneath white to the origin
of the plates; <i>head</i> with nine plates above, two longitudinal series, of about four
large scales each, intervening on each side between the two posterior plates and
the three posterior supermaxillary plates; intermaxillary plate somewhat heptagonal,
dilated, emarginate at the mouth, superior angle obtusely pointed; <i>eye</i>
black-brown, pupil deep black, surrounded by a whitish line, posterior canthus
with two plates.</p>
<p class="continue" style="padding-left:3em;">Plates 176, scales 84</p>
<p class="continue" style="padding-left:3em;">Plates 174, scales —</p>
<table summary="Coluber flaviventris speciment measurements">
<tr>
<td align="left"></td>
<th align="right">ft.</th>
<th align="right">in.</th></tr>
<tr>
<td align="left">Total length</td>
<td align="right">3</td>
<td align="right">4½</td></tr>
<tr>
<td align="left">Tail</td>
<td align="right"></td>
<td align="right">8<span class="fraction"><sup>5</sup>⁄<sub>8</sub></span></td></tr>
<tr>
<td align="left">Head, to the tip of the maxillary bones</td>
<td align="right"></td>
<td align="right">1<span class="fraction"><sup>3</sup>⁄<sub>20</sub></span></td></tr>
<tr>
<td align="left" style="padding-left:3em;">
Another specimen, plates 130, scales 91.</td></tr>
<tr>
<td align="left">Total length</td>
<td align="right">3</td>
<td align="right">11<span class="fraction"><sup>3</sup>⁄<sub>8</sub></span></td></tr>
<tr>
<td align="left">Tail</td>
<td align="right"></td>
<td align="right">11½</td></tr>
</table>
<p>Three specimens were found. The inferior surface of one was immaculate,
but that of the smaller one had on each side of the plates an obsolete double
series of reddish-brown spots, irregularly alternate on each side; these were so
indistinct as not to be noticed at the first glance of the eye. The tip of the tail
in this last is deficient.</p>
<p>2. <i>Coluber parietalis.</i>—Above blackish, with three yellowish fillets, and
about eighty red concealed spots; beneath bluish; a series of black dots each
side.</p>
<p>Description. <i>Body</i> above black-brown, a vertebral greenish yellow vitta,
and a lateral pale yellow one, beneath which is a fuliginous shade; between the
dorsal and lateral vitta are about eighty concealed red spots or semifasciæ,
formed upon the skin and lateral margins of the scales, obsolete towards the
cloaca, at which the series terminates; <i>scales</i> elongated, all carinate, and slightly
reflexed at the lateral edges; <i>head</i> dark olive, beneath white, <i>parietal plates</i> with
a double white spot at the middle of the suture; <i>intermaxillary plate</i> subhexagonal,
emarginate at the mouth, and at tip hardly angulated, almost rounded
in that part, transverse diameter nearly double the longitudinal; <i>superior maxillary
plates</i> white, intermediate sutures blackish; <i>eye</i> yellowish, pupil black,
posterior canthus two-scaled, beneath bluish green, a longitudinal series of
black dots each side at the base of the scuta, terminating at the cloaca.</p>
<p style="padding-left:4em;">Plates 165, scales 88.</p>
<table summary="Coluber parietalis specimen measurements">
<tr>
<td align="left"></td>
<th align="right">ft.</th>
<th align="right">in.</th></tr>
<tr>
<td align="left">Total length</td>
<td align="right">1</td>
<td align="right">3<span class="fraction"><sup>3</sup>⁄<sub>10</sub></span></td></tr>
<tr>
<td align="left">Tail</td>
<td></td>
<td align="right">4<span class="fraction"><sup>9</sup>⁄<sub>10</sub></span></td></tr>
</table>
<p>This is a common serpent in this section of country. In order to render the
lateral red spots very apparent, it is necessary to dilate the skin, when they exhibit
a very striking character, being of a vermilion red. It varies in having the
lateral series of red spots alternating with a series of smaller red spots nearer to
the dorsal line.</p>
<p>In common with <i>ordinatus</i> it has a double common white spot on the parietal
plates, and a series of black spots on each side of the interior surface of the
body; but in addition to the proportions of plates, and scales, and length of tail,
the red colour of the lateral concealed spots very sufficiently denotes its specific
dissimilarity from that most common of the serpents of the United States.</p>
<p>3. <i>Coluber proximus.</i>—Body above black, trilineate, vertebral line ocraceous,
lateral one yellowish, a double white spot on the parietal plates.</p>
<p>Description. <i>Body</i> above black, with three vittæ; vertebral vitta ocraceous,
occupying the dorsal series of scales and a moiety of each one of the second
series each side; lateral vitta greenish-yellow, occupying more than the moiety
of the seven and eight series of scales: beneath the lateral vitta the black is
tinged with greenish-blue; <i>head</i> with seven olivaceous plates above; parietal
ones with a double, white, longitudinal spot: <i>intermaxillary plate</i> pentangular,
the superior termination obtusely rounded; <i>posterior canthus of the eye</i> three-scaled,
of which the two inferior ones are white; <i>anterior canthus</i> white; <i>supermaxillary
plates</i> bluish-green; <i>maxillary angles</i> with a small black dot; <i>inferior
maxilla</i> white beneath; beneath pale greenish-blue.</p>
<p style="padding-left:4em;">Plates 178, scales 86.</p>
<table summary="Coluber proximus specimen measurements">
<tr>
<td align="left">Total length</td>
<td align="right">2 ft.</td>
<td align="right">7¼ in.</td></tr>
<tr>
<td align="left">Tail</td>
<td align="right"></td>
<td align="right">7¾ in.</td></tr>
</table>
<p>Resembles <i>Coluber saurita</i>, <i>ordinatus</i> and <i>parietalis</i>. Numerous longitudinal,
abbreviated white lines, may be observed by dilating the black portion of the
skin as in <i>ordinatus</i>; these lines or spots are obsolete upon the neck and upon
the posterior portion of the body. The extreme tip of the tail is wanting in this
specimen.</p>
<p>It differs from <i>saurita</i> in the numerical proportion which its subcaudal scales
bear to its plates; from <i>ordinatus</i> it may be distinguished by being destitute of
the two series of black points beneath; it is a much more slender serpent than
<i>parietalis</i>, and the tail is proportionally longer.—<span class="smcap">James.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_207" id="Footnote_207"></a><a href="#FNanchor_207"><span class="label">[195]</span></a> The name of this dance is apparently a derivative of the Canadian-French
<i>gingue</i> (<i>se mettre en</i>), meaning to engage in the gaiety of a lively company.
The verb <i>ginguer</i> means to run or jump hither and thither; it is a derivative of
the Norman <i>giguer</i>, which has the same meaning.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_208" id="Footnote_208"></a><a href="#FNanchor_208"><span class="label">[196]</span></a> Lucien Fontenelle, born in New Orleans of French parents, fled from his
home when fifteen years of age, and engaged in the fur-trade at St. Louis.
Later he became a leader in the mountain explorations of the American Fur
Company. His wife was an Omaha woman, and some of his descendants were
prominent in the history of Nebraska; a son, Logan Fontenelle, became a chief
of the Omaha tribe. Fontenelle is supposed by some to have committed suicide
at Fort Laramie, about 1836, but the manner of his death is uncertain.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_209" id="Footnote_209"></a><a href="#FNanchor_209"><span class="label">[197]</span></a> The Gens des Feuilles (People of the Leaves) were the Assiniboin tribe
of the Siouan family. Lewis and Clark reported their numbers at two hundred
and fifty men. At that time they lived on White River, in South Dakota.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_210" id="Footnote_210"></a><a href="#FNanchor_210"><span class="label">[198]</span></a> In Dickinson County, Iowa.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_211" id="Footnote_211"></a><a href="#FNanchor_211"><span class="label">[199]</span></a> Sha-mon-e-kus-se.—<span class="smcap">James.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_212" id="Footnote_212"></a><a href="#FNanchor_212"><span class="label">[200]</span></a> Loup (Wolf) River is a large northern tributary of the Platte, which
empties into the latter a few miles below Columbus, Platte County. It rises
in the arid sand hills of northwestern Nebraska, and flows southeast for three
hundred miles to the confluence. It is sometimes called the Pawnee Loup
River, from the dominant Indian tribe on its waters.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_213" id="Footnote_213"></a><a href="#FNanchor_213"><span class="label">[201]</span></a> One of the ladies was Madam Lisa; the name of the other is not known.
They are supposed to have been the first white women to ascend the Missouri
to this point.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_214" id="Footnote_214"></a><a href="#FNanchor_214"><span class="label">[202]</span></a> Daniel Ketchum owed his title of major to a brevet awarded for distinguished
services at the battle of Niagara Falls. He entered the army early in
the war as second lieutenant in the 25th Infantry, and rose through a first lieutenancy
to a captaincy in 1813. He died in 1828.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_215" id="Footnote_215"></a><a href="#FNanchor_215"><span class="label">[203]</span></a> Little is recorded concerning this individual. His name was probably
Michael, and he had been a United States army officer. The circumstances of
his death are better known than the incidents of his life, he having been killed
by the Indians (1823) on the Yellowstone.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_216" id="Footnote_216"></a><a href="#FNanchor_216"><span class="label">[204]</span></a> Compare the astonishment of the Indians at the appearance of Captain
Clark's negro servant York, in Thwaites, <cite>Original Journals of the Lewis and
Clark Expedition</cite>, index.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
</div></div>
<div class="footnotes">
<div class="fakeh3">Footnotes to Chapter X:</div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_217" id="Footnote_217"></a><a
href="#FNanchor_217"><span class="label">[205]</span></a>
The succeeding chapters [the last in this volume, and the first five in the
next], which relate to the manners and customs of the Indians, chiefly the
Omawhaws, are from the notes of Mr. Say.—<span class="smcap">James.</span></p>
<p><i>Comment by Ed.</i> With the account of the Omaha here given, compare
Dorsey, "Omaha Sociology," in Bureau of Ethnology <cite>Report</cite>, 1881-82, p. 205.</p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_218" id="Footnote_218"></a><a
href="#FNanchor_218"><span class="label">[206]</span></a> See No. 43 in Language of Signs, Appendix B, volume xvii.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_219" id="Footnote_219"></a><a
href="#FNanchor_219"><span class="label">[207]</span></a> In corroboration of the remarks given in the text, we add the following
account of an interview which Major O'Fallon had with Indians of the Mississippi,<a name="FNanchor_220" id="FNanchor_220"></a><a href="#Footnote_220" class="fnanchor">[B]</a>
whose agent has been hitherto unable to restrain them from carrying on
warlike operations against the Missouri Indians.</p>
<p>In St. Louis, on the 3d April, 1821, B. O'Fallon, agent for Indian affairs on
Missouri, met a deputation from the Saukee nation of Indians, on the subject of
a most destructive war, carried on by them against the Otoes, Missouries, and
Omawhaws of his agency, and spoke to them as follows:—</p>
<div class="blockquot" style="font-size:1em;">
<p>"<span class="smcap">Saukees</span>,</p>
<p>"I am glad you have arrived, before my departure for the Council Bluff, as
it affords me an opportunity to address you on a subject that has agitated my
mind for some time past. Yes, Saukees, for some time past I have wished to
speak to you on a subject that even now makes the blood run warm in my veins.</p>
<p>"In addressing you upon this important subject, I shall not speak to please
your ears, but to strike your hearts.</p>
<p>"Saukees, you must recollect to have seen me frequently; but you do not
know me, and I know you well. I recollect when I first visited your land, your
balls whistled round my ears. I was then a boy, and wished to be a man—I
am now a man, with a heart as strong as my strength.</p>
<p>"A few winters since, I was a chief to the red skins of the upper Mississippi
(Sioux and Foxes); I am now chief to the red skins of Missouri, some of whose
blood you have spilt. Listen that you may hear me; dispose your minds to
understand me; and remember well what I am now going to tell you, and carry
my words to your nation, that they may not deceive themselves.</p>
<p>"When I first climbed the rapid Missouri, I found the red skins as wild as
wolves. Without ears they roved through the plains, only thirsting for each
other's blood. They could only see the storm as it gathered around them;
they could only see the clouds when they obscured the sun, and hear it thunder
when it rained: but when I sat down on their land, they assembled around me;
they listened to my words; I settled the difference that existed between them,
and gave peace to the land. They then sat down to rest; but they could not
rest long, for the Saukees of the Mississippi, you whom the Big Knives, like
fools, have suffered to live, came and disturbed them in their sleep. When
disturbed, not like women did they mourn their misfortunes; but like men, they
rose in arms and came to me. I did not consult my feelings; I consulted the
feelings of my nation, and I was for peace. I told them to sit down, and they
did so. Keep your ears open that you may hear me, and raise your eyes that
you may see me, for I have saved your blood. Yes, Saukees, I restrained their
arms, and they sat down in tears. But you were not satisfied: you presumed
upon their forbearance, and came again; but they were not asleep, and you did
not spill their blood, but you stole their horses: you stole horses from the whites,
who, like fools, had still suffered you to live; and you murdered some traders,
who were also white. They again raised their arms; every body who were
there at the time, both whites and red skins, raised their arms, and looked
around them; but they could not see you; for, like the timid wolf, you had sought
the wood, where they could not follow you, until they had consulted me—I,
whose blood began to boil in my veins. Saukees, my heart was for war; but
my nation was too much for peace, and it was my business to promote peace;
therefore I gave them some tobacco, and told them once more to sit down, and
endeavour to restrain their feelings: they did so; and I left them smoking their
pipes, and came away to see the great American Chief. After I left them, you
returned again to their land: you found them asleep; you stole their horses,
murdered their women and children, took their scalps, and carried some of them
prisoners to your villages.</p>
<p>"How long, how long, Saukees, will you continue to disturb the repose of
other nations? How long will you (like the serpent creeping through the grass)
continue to disturb the unsuspecting stranger passing through your country?
Be cautious how you disturb the red skins of Missouri; or your women and
children shall mourn the loss of husbands and fathers—husbands and fathers
shall mourn the loss of wives and children.</p>
<p>"Yes, Saukees, the Otoes, Missouries, and Omawhaws, are unwilling to be
disturbed any longer. They will no longer suffer you to make slaves of their
children, and dance their scalps in your villages.</p>
<p>"Saukees, be cautious; you live in the woods, and the game of your country
is nearly exhausted. You will soon have to desert those woods in which the red
skins of Missouri cannot find you, and follow the buffalo in the plains, where
the red-skins are not less brave than you, and as numerous as the buffalo. As
long as you have the wood to conceal your warriors, you may continue to disturb
the women and children of Missouri; but when hunger drives you from
those woods, your bodies will be exposed to balls, to arrows, and to spears.
You will only have time to discharge your guns, before, on horseback, their
spears will spill your blood. I know that your guns are better than those of
Missouri, and you shoot them well: but when you reach the prairies, they will
avail you nothing against the Otoes, Missouries, Omawhaws, and Pawnees.
As you have seen the whirlwind break and scatter the trees of your woods, so
will your warriors bend before them on horseback. (Here B. O'Fallon paused,
to give the Saukees an opportunity to reply; when one of their most distinguished
partisans arose and spoke with energy and animation, recounting many of his
feats in war. He mentioned how often he had struck upon the tribes of Missouri,
and that the Otoes had killed his brother, whom he loved as a father, and
whose spirit could not be appeased as long as an Oto walked erect upon the
earth. He also spoke of the difficulty of restraining his young warriors, who
were unwilling to die in obscurity. To which B. O'Fallon spoke to the following
effect:)</p>
<p>
"Saukees, one of your partizans, forgetting to whom he was speaking, has
had the presumption to recount his feats in war, how often he had struck the red
skins of Missouri, and to insinuate that he was unwilling to restrain his young
men. I believe him to be a man of sense; but he has spoken without reflection,
he has spoken like a fool.</p>
<p>
"Saukees, it has always been, and still is, my business to prevent (if possible)
the effusion of human blood—to give peace and happiness to the land: but
when I cannot stop the running of blood, I will probe the wound, and make it
run more fast.</p>
<p>
"I wish you to understand that the Otoes and Missouries, though few in
number, and much exposed, do not beg for peace; and I do not ask it for them.
They have not as yet revenged the death of some of their murdered countrymen:
the spirits of these dead are not satisfied. No, Saukees, these red skins, whom
you persecute, have opened their ears to my words, and are constantly looking
towards me. They do not wish a dishonourable peace. I would sooner see
you drink their blood, than suffer them to make a dishonourable peace. You
have a few of their children as prisoners among you; if you consult the interest
of your nation, you will send them to their mothers: if you do not deliver them
up, the red-skins of Missouri will go after them; and in hunting them they may
find some of yours.</p>
<p>
"I tell you to be cautious, Saukees, how you disturb the red skins of Missouri.
They call themselves my children: be cautious how you disturb my
children, or I will no longer look to the pacific disposition of my nation, but
consult my own feelings, and probe the wound which I cannot heal.</p>
<p>
"I am not like many white chiefs whom you have been accustomed to see.
I never act an humble part. I am one of those white men who never fear a red
skin—when I move amongst them, it is not like a dog with his tail between his
legs, but as becomes a man; and when I speak, I feel the strength of my nation.</p>
<p>
"On the Missouri I have guns, powder and balls, blankets, breech-clouts,
and leggings, and I am now getting more. I know where you have your village,
and I know the face of the country over which you stretch your limbs. I know
how and where you are scattered on hunting excursions. I know where you are
most exposed, and what I do not know I can easily learn from the whites, and
other red skins of the Mississippi.</p>
<p>
"I have every thing that a red skin wants; and you all know he wants only
the means of war. You know that all red skins are fond of war, and that I can
make brother fight brother.</p>
<p>
"Saukees; you are a strong nation of red skins; but if you don't endeavour to
restrain the ungovernable disposition of some of your young men, they will
expose your hearts in the midst of your strength.</p>
<p>
"Yes, Saukees, be cautious how you offend me; lest I assemble an army of
red skins, and from some high peak on Missouri, show them where to find your
village, and your exposed and scattered lodges. I know that the red skins of
Missouri cannot destroy you directly; but they can give you unpleasant dreams.
Be cautious, Saukees, how you deceive yourselves, or suffer others to deceive
you, or the day will come when some of your children will have the misfortune
to behold the dogs fighting over the bones of their fathers upon this land; and
as I may have many years to live, I don't intend to sit still; and if I continue to
increase in strength as I have done, I may live to see the day when I can make
you smile, or shed tears of blood. Saukees, I have done, I am going to the
Council Bluff."</p>
<p>The Chief of the Saukees, after consulting each warrior separately, replied,
(in substance) as follows:—</p>
<p>
"American Chief, I have been attentive, and I have heard your words, and
those of the <i>red head</i> (Gov. Clark). Yours entered one ear, and his the other:
they shall not escape until my nation hears them. I feel the truth of all you
have said, and have never been more for peace than now. All those braves
have expressed their wish for peace with the red skins of Missouri. This partizan,
who without reflection spoke exultingly of his feats, since he has heard
your words is also for peace; not from any fear of those whom he has bled, but
from an unwillingness to displease you, whom he conceives to be a man of truth.</p>
<p>
"At our village on Rock river, and encampment at the De Moyen, we have
five Oto prisoners, whom I will promise to deliver up, when you send for them.</p>
<p>
"My brother, I only regret that my nation was not present on this occasion,
to have heard your words. The wisdom of my nation, all the reflecting men, are
for peace; but we have many young men difficult to restrain, whose ears, (I believe,)
would open to words coming from your mouth, when mine, for the want
of strength, may fail.</p>
<p>
"My brother, I wish you to pause—I wish you to forbear until I disclose
your words to my people, and you hear from them.</p>
<p>"My brother, we receive you as the son of the <i>red head</i>; and inasmuch as we
love him, we love you, and do not wish to offend you."—<span class="smcap">James.</span></p>
</div></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_220" id="Footnote_220"></a><a
href="#FNanchor_220"><span class="label">[B]</span></a> Of the
Sauk nation; they call themselves Sauke-waw-ke.</p> </div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_221" id="Footnote_221"></a><a
href="#FNanchor_221"><span class="label">[208]</span></a> For a
sketch of Blackbird, see Bradbury's <cite>Travels</cite>, in our
volume v, note 48.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p> </div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_222" id="Footnote_222"></a><a
href="#FNanchor_222"><span class="label">[209]</span></a>
On the custom of giving medals to chiefs in recognition of their leadership,
see Thwaites, <cite>Original Journals of the Lewis and Clark Expedition</cite>, index.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div></div>
<p> </p>
<p> </p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 100px;">
<img src="images/hr-100.png" width="100" height="1"
alt="horizontal rule 100" />
</div>
<div class="transnote">
<p><a id="TRANSCRIBERS_ENDNOTE"></a>TRANSCRIBER'S NOTE.</p>
<p>Original spelling, hyphenation, and grammar has
been mostly retained, with a few exceptions.</p>
<p>Hyphenation questions, when the hyphen occurred at the end of
a line, were settled in favor of consistency, whenever possible.</p>
<p>Footnotes were moved from the bottoms of pages to the end of
the book. Footnotes to the Preface have only one or two digits,
e.g. "[11]"; footnotes to the body of the book have three e.g.
"[011]".</p>
<p>In tables, "ditto", and "do." were replaced with repetitive
text for clarity. Sometimes blank space indicated repetition in a
printed table. The first table in <a href="#Footnote_199">Footnote
187</a> is an example, wherein the words "Length" and "inches."
occurred on the first line only, in the original, but are repeated
on each line in this ebook. Whenever it was clear to the
transcriber that repetition was indeed meant by white space, text
was substituted for the blank. There are rare cases of this which
are perhaps debatable. For example, see <a href="#Footnote_94">
Footnote 83</a>--tumulus No. 4. In this table, the "Longitudinal
base" has measurement 84 feet, and the "top" has measurement 45
feet. The original table had white space under "Longitudinal",
suggesting that "Longitudinal top" was meant; and that meaning has
been embodied herein.</p>
<p>Footnote <a href="#Footnote_66">055</a>: two periods inserted,
to end the sentence, and at the end of the footnote.</p>
<p>Page <a href="#Page_248">248</a>: "permisssion" changed to
"permission".</p>
<p>Page <a href="#Page_307">307</a>: comma inserted after "hoes"
in "camp-kettles; knives, hoes squaw-axes,".</p>
<p>Page <a href="#Page_308">308</a>: period deleted from "having
disposed of his hunting apparatus,. she rubs his".</p>
</div>
<p> </p>
<div>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 43751 ***</div>
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