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diff --git a/43751-0.txt b/43751-0.txt index 53dcbf1..e1dfb88 100644 --- a/43751-0.txt +++ b/43751-0.txt @@ -1,41 +1,4 @@ -The Project Gutenberg eBook, Early Western Travels 1748-1846, Volume XIV, -by Edwin James, Edited by Reuben Gold Thwaites - - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - - - - - -Title: Early Western Travels 1748-1846, Volume XIV - Part I of James's Account of S. H. Long's Expedition, 1819-1820 - - -Author: Edwin James - -Editor: Reuben Gold Thwaites - -Release Date: September 16, 2013 [eBook #43751] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - - -***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EARLY WESTERN TRAVELS 1748-1846, -VOLUME XIV*** - - -E-text prepared by E-text prepared by Richard W, Greg Bergquist, and the -Online Distributed Proofreading Team (http://www.pgdp.net) from page -images generously made available by Internet Archive/American Libraries -(http://archive.org/details/americana) - - +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 43751 *** Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this file which includes the original illustrations. @@ -11544,363 +11507,4 @@ hoes squaw-axes,". Page 308: period deleted from "having disposed of his hunting apparatus,. she rubs his". - - -***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EARLY WESTERN TRAVELS 1748-1846, -VOLUME XIV*** - - -******* This file should be named 43751-0.txt or 43751-0.zip ******* - - -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: -http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/4/3/7/5/43751 - - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. Special rules, -set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to -copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to -protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark. 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You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - - - - - -Title: Early Western Travels 1748-1846, Volume XIV - Part I of James's Account of S. H. Long's Expedition, 1819-1820 - - -Author: Edwin James - -Editor: Reuben Gold Thwaites - -Release Date: September 16, 2013 [eBook #43751] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 - - -***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EARLY WESTERN TRAVELS 1748-1846, -VOLUME XIV*** - - -E-text prepared by E-text prepared by Richard W, Greg Bergquist, and the -Online Distributed Proofreading Team (http://www.pgdp.net) from page -images generously made available by Internet Archive/American Libraries -(http://archive.org/details/americana) - - - -Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this - file which includes the original illustrations. - See 43751-h.htm or 43751-h.zip: - (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/43751/43751-h/43751-h.htm) - or - (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/43751/43751-h.zip) - - - Images of the original pages are available through - Internet Archive/American Libraries. See - http://archive.org/details/earlywesterntrav14thwa - - -Transcriber's note: - - This ebook reproduces the 1905 Arthur H. Clark Company - Edition, which is itself based on an 1823 London edition - of Part I of James's Account of S. H. Long's Expedition. - The 1905 edition incorporated portions from several - differing published editions of the account, plus a map - which does not appear to have been directly related to - James's account. The original pagination of the 1823 - London edition was included in the 1905 edition, and is - shown in this ebook by numbers enclosed in brackets, - e.g. {135}. - - Text enclosed by underscores is in italics (_italics_). - - Small capitals have been converted to uppercase. - - A carat character is used to denote superscription. The - character(s) enclosed in curly brackets following the - carat is/are superscripted (examples: Pub^{d}, C^{o.}). - - Further details of this transcription are located at the - end of this e-book. - - - - - -EARLY WESTERN TRAVELS - -1748-1846 - -VOLUME XIV - - - -EARLY WESTERN TRAVELS -1748-1846 - -A Series of Annotated Reprints of some of the best -and rarest contemporary volumes of travel, -descriptive of the Aborigines and Social and -Economic Conditions in the Middle -and Far West, during the Period -of Early American Settlement - -Edited with Notes, Introductions, Index, etc., by - -Reuben Gold Thwaites, LL.D. - -Editor of "The Jesuit Relations and Allied Documents," -"Original Journals of the Lewis and Clark Expedition," -"Hennepin's New Discovery," etc. - -Volume XIV - -Part I of James's Account of S. H. Long's Expedition, -1819-1820 - - - - - - - -Cleveland, Ohio -The Arthur H. Clark Company -1905 - -Copyright 1905, by -The Arthur H. Clark Company - -All Rights Reserved - -The Lakeside Press -R. R. Donnelley & Sons Company -Chicago - - - - -CONTENTS OF VOLUME XIV - - - PREFACE TO VOLUMES XIV-XVII. _The Editor_ 9 - - ACCOUNT OF AN EXPEDITION FROM PITTSBURGH TO THE - ROCKY MOUNTAINS, PERFORMED IN THE YEARS 1819, 1820. - By order of the Hon. J. C. Calhoun, Secretary of - War, under the command of Maj. S. H. Long, of the - U. S. Top. Engineers. Compiled from the Notes of - Major Long, Mr. T. Say, and other Gentlemen of the - Party. [Part I, being chapters i-x of Volume I of - the London edition, 1823.] _Edwin James_, Botanist - and Geologist to the Expedition - - Dedication 33 - - Preliminary Notice [from Philadelphia edition, - 1823] 35 - - Text: - CHAPTER I--Departure from Pittsburgh. - North-western slope of Alleghany Mountains. - Rapids of the Ohio 39 - - CHAPTER II--The Ohio below the Rapids at - Louisville. Ascent of the Mississippi from - the mouth of the Ohio to St. Louis 77 - - CHAPTER III--Tumuli and Indian graves about - St. Louis, and on the Merameg. Mouth of the - Missouri. Charboniere. Journey by land from - St. Charles to Loutre Island 108 - - CHAPTER IV--Settlement of Cote Sans Dessein. - Mouths of the Osage. Manito Rocks. Village - of Franklin 136 - - CHAPTER V--Death of Dr. Baldwin. Charaton - River, and Settlement. Pedestrian Journey - from Franklin to Fort Osage 153 - - CHAPTER VI--Mouth of the Konzas. Arrival at - Wolf River. Journey by land from Fort Osage - to the Village of the Konzas 171 - - CHAPTER VII--Further Account of the Konza - Nation. Robbery of Mr. Say's Detachment by a - War-party of Pawnees. Arrival at the Platte 199 - - CHAPTER VIII--Winter Cantonment near Council - Bluff. Councils with the Otoes, Missouries, - Ioways, Pawnees, &c. 221 - - CHAPTER IX--Animals. Sioux and Omawhaw - Indians. Winter Residence at Engineer - Cantonment 250 - - CHAPTER X--Account of the Omawhaws. Their - Manners, and Customs, and Religious Rites. - Historical Notices of Black Bird, Late - Principal Chief 288 - - - - -ILLUSTRATIONS TO VOLUME XIV - - "Map of the Country drained by the Mississippi" 30 - - Facsimile of title-page to Volume I of James's - _Account_ 31 - - "Indian Record of a Battle between the Pawnees - and the Konzas--a Fac-Simile of a Delineation - upon a Bison Robe" 202 - - "War Dance in the interior of a Konza Lodge" 208 - - "Oto Council" 238 - - "Pawnee Council" 246 - - - - -PREFACE TO VOLUMES XIV-XVII - - -The present volume and the three which succeed it are devoted to a -reprint of Edwin James's _Account of an Expedition from Pittsburgh -to the Rocky Mountains, performed in the Years 1819, 1820, . . . -under the Command of Maj. S. H. Long_. This exploration was the -outcome, and almost the only valuable result, of the ill-starred -project popularly known at the time as the Yellowstone expedition, -which had been designed to establish military posts on the upper -Missouri for the several purposes of protecting the growing -fur-trade, controlling the Indian tribes, and lessening the -influence which British trading companies were believed to exert -upon them.[1] The movement gave rise to great expectations, for -interest in our Western territories was already keen; it was -confidently hoped that an era of rapid development was about to -open in the trans-Mississippi region, under government initiative -and protection.[2] - -As originally planned, the scientific observations of the -expedition were to be conducted by a company of specialists under -the command of Major Long, to whom detailed instructions were -issued by Secretary of War Calhoun.[3] The military branch, under -Colonel Henry Atkinson,[4] was set in motion in the autumn of -1818, and a considerable body of troops passed the following -winter near the present site of Leavenworth, Kansas. In the spring -of 1819, however, defects in the plans began to hamper the -execution of the enterprise. Those were the early days of steam -navigation, and the waters of the Missouri had not yet been -stirred by paddle-wheels. Prudence counselled that the success of -the movement should not be staked on the behavior of steamboats in -untried waters. Nevertheless, the authorities decided against the -old-fashioned keel-boats recommended by Atkinson;[5] in arranging -for transportation, a further blunder was made in engaging a -contractor without competition or adequate securities. The service -proved entirely inefficient, and it was not until late in -September of 1819 that the troops were concentrated at Council -Bluffs, where, perforce, a halt was made for the winter. - -The scientific members of the expedition had meanwhile assembled -at Pittsburg, and on May 5, 1819, they began the descent of the -Ohio in the steamer "Western Engineer."[6] Stephen Harriman Long, -the chief of this party, was born at Hopkinton, New Hampshire, in -1764. After being graduated at Dartmouth (1809), and teaching for -a few years, he entered the army (1814) as lieutenant in the corps -of engineers. Until 1816 he was assistant professor of mathematics -at West Point, being then transferred to the topographical -engineers, with the brevet rank of major. Previous to the -exploration which forms the subject of our text, he travelled -extensively in the South-west, between the Arkansas and Red -rivers, and his journals, although never published, ranked among -the most useful sources of information for that region. Major -Long's associates in the present undertaking were Major John -Biddle, journalist of the party; Dr. William Baldwin, physician -and botanist; Dr. Thomas Say, zoologist; Augustus Edward Jessup, -geologist; T. R. Peale, assistant naturalist; Samuel Seymour, -painter; and Lieutenant James D. Graham and Cadet William H. -Swift, assistant topographers.[7] - -The "Western Engineer" arrived at St. Louis on the ninth of June, -and proceeded again on the twenty-first, after the party had -completed certain arrangements for their journey and examined the -Indian mounds in the vicinity. The voyage up the Missouri was -begun on the twenty-second, being marked by no more important -incident than an occasional halt to repair the machinery or clean -the boiler. Notwithstanding it drew but nineteen inches of water, -the boat grounded twice on sand-bars within four miles of the -Mississippi; but on the whole, it worked fairly well and gave -comparatively little annoyance. At St. Charles, on June 27, the -party was joined by Benjamin O'Fallon, agent for Indian affairs, -and John Dougherty, his interpreter. Here Messrs. Say, Jessup, -Peale, and Seymour left the boat and made a land excursion, -rejoining the party at Loutre Island. At Franklin, then the -uppermost town of any importance on the Missouri, a halt of -several days was made; here Dr. Baldwin, who had been ill since -the departure from Pittsburg, was left behind, his death occurring -on the thirty-first of August. From Franklin a party under Dr. Say -proceeded by land to Fort Osage, where they arrived on July 24, a -week in advance of the boat. On the sixth of August Dr. Say left -Fort Osage in command of a party bound for the principal village -of the Kansa Indians, then situated near the site of the present -village of Manhattan, Kansas. Arriving there on the twentieth, -they were hospitably entertained for four days; but after their -departure were set upon and robbed by a war party of Pawnee -braves, and consequently forced to abandon further progress by -land and return to the boat. - -Meantime the steamer had left Fort Osage on August 10, and eight -days later arrived at Cow Island, near Leavenworth, where a -portion of the troops of the Yellowstone expedition had wintered. -Here another week was spent in a council with the Kansa Indians. -On the twenty-ninth of August, Say and his companions arrived at -Cow Island, four days after the departure of the boat; both Say -and Jessup were ill, and the party had decided to return to the -river at that point instead of attempting the longer journey to -Council Bluffs, the appointed rendezvous. The others succeeded in -overtaking the steamer, the invalids remaining for a time at Cow -Island. - -Near the quarters of the troops at Council Bluffs (Camp Missouri), -Long's party also halted, on September 17, and prepared a winter -camp, named "Engineer Cantonment." Here Long left his companions, -and, accompanied by Jessup, returned to the East for the winter. -His colleagues at the cantonment pursued such studies as were -possible in the winter season, collecting much valuable -information relative to the neighboring tribes of Pawnee, Oto, -Iowa, Missouri, and Omaha Indians, and making short excursions -which gave them some knowledge of the geology and natural history -of the vicinity. - -Long returned to the West in the spring of 1820. Leaving St. Louis -on April 24, he crossed the intervening wilderness to Council -Bluffs by land, arriving at Engineer Cantonment on May 28. With -him came Captain J. R. Bell, to replace Major Biddle, also the -author of the account herewith reprinted; the latter assumed the -duties which had originally been assigned to Baldwin and Jessup. -Edwin James was born at Weybridge, Vermont, in 1797, and after -graduation at Middlebury College (1816) pursued the study of -medicine under a brother, Daniel James, who was a practising -physician of Albany, New York. At the same time he prosecuted -studies in botany and geology under Dr. John Torrey and Professor -Amos Eaton, joining the expedition in 1820 fresh from the tutelage -of these men. - -Long was also the bearer of fresh instructions. Congress, annoyed -at the first season's operations, the results of which had been -out of all proportion to the heavy expenditures, had refused -further appropriations, and the progress of the Yellowstone -expedition was necessarily arrested. Long's party, however, with -the exception of Lieutenant Graham, who with the steamboat was -assigned to special duty on the Missouri and Mississippi, was to -ascend the Platte to its source, and return to the Mississippi by -way of the Arkansas and the Red. - -The company as now organized, in addition to the scientific -gentlemen already named, included Dougherty and four other men to -serve as interpreters, baggage handlers, and the like, and a -detachment of seven soldiers from the troops at Camp Missouri--a -total of twenty. Leaving the Missouri on June 6, the expedition -visited the Pawnee villages on Loup River, where two Frenchmen -were engaged as guides and interpreters. An effort was made to -introduce the process of vaccination among the Pawnee, who, in -common with other tribes, had suffered heavily from the ravages of -smallpox; but the vaccine having been thoroughly drenched by the -wreck of one of the keel-boats of the Yellowstone expedition, the -attempt was unsuccessful. After two days at the villages, progress -was resumed on the thirteenth, and from this time until the -mountains were reached, little was encountered to excite interest, -save herds of buffalo and the mirage. From near Grand Island the -company followed the north bank of the Platte, until they reached -the forks, where they crossed to the south bank of the South Fork. - -On the thirtieth the Rockies were first sighted--their route along -the Platte having borne directly towards the mountain which has -since received Long's name, and which was, at first, mistaken for -Pike's Peak. The fourth of July, which they had hoped to celebrate -in the mountains, found them still at some distance from them; on -the fifth they encamped upon the site of the present city of -Denver, and the following day directly in front of the chasm -through which issues the South Platte. Here two days were passed -while James and Peale, with two companions, sought to cross the -first range and gain the valley of the Platte beyond; but after -surmounting several ridges, each of which appeared to be the -summit, only to find higher land beyond, the undertaking was -abandoned. They did reach, however, an elevated point from which -they could distinguish the two forks of the South Platte. - -A few days later, members of the expedition performed a more -memorable exploit. On the twelfth of July, the camp then being -a few miles south of the site of Colorado Springs, James set -out with two men, and two days later succeeded in reaching the -summit of Pike's Peak, being, so far as history records, the -first to accomplish this feat. In honor of the achievement, -Major Long christened the mountain James's Peak; but by force -of local usage, the present name supplanted this appropriate -designation. Lieutenant Swift had meanwhile quite accurately -calculated the height of the peak above the basal plains, although -an erroneous estimate of the elevation of the latter produced an -error of nearly three thousand feet in the determination for the -elevation of the summit above sea level. Here, as elsewhere, the -observations for longitude and latitude involved a considerable -error. - -On the sixteenth the party again broke camp, and moved southwest -to the Arkansas, which they reached twelve or fifteen miles above -the present city of Pueblo. The following day Captain Bell, Dr. -James, and two of the men ascended the river to the site of Cañon -City, at the entrance of Royal Gorge, where they turned back, -again baffled by what seemed to them impassable barriers. - -The expedition began the descent of the Arkansas on the -nineteenth. After two days' march a camp was made a few miles -above the future site of La Junta, Colorado; here a division -into two parties was effected, for the purpose of carrying out -the instructions of the War Department to explore the courses -of both the Arkansas and the Red. The division assigned to the -exploration of Red River, consisting of James, Peale, and seven -men, was commanded by Major Long himself, for this was one of the -principal objects of the expedition; the other division, charged -with the less important task of descending the Arkansas, the -entire course of which had already been examined by Pike and his -assistants, was led by Captain Bell. - -Leaving the Arkansas on the twenty-fourth, Long's party crossed -Purgatory Creek and the upper waters of Cimarron River, and after -six days reached a small tributary of Canadian River, which, after -five days' still further travel, brought them to the latter near -the present Texas-New Mexico boundary line. As the region in which -they had encountered the waters of the Canadian was that wherein -the sources of the Red had, previous to that time, been -universally supposed to lie, they naturally at first believed that -they were upon the latter stream. Their suspicions were soon -aroused by the deviation of the river's course from that which -they expected the Red to pursue; but it was not until they arrived -at the confluence of this waterway with the Arkansas that they -became certain of their error. During their descent of the -Canadian they encountered parties of Kaskaia and Comanche Indians, -whose conduct was not uniformly friendly. Few incidents of -interest, however, broke the painful monotony of a journey -accompanied by almost constant suffering from exposure to violent -storms and intense heat, lack of food and water, and the attacks -of wood ticks. On the thirteenth of September the explorers -arrived at Fort Smith, the appointed rendezvous, where they found -Bell's party awaiting them. - -The experience of the Arkansas division had, in most particulars, -been quite similar to that of Long's, but on the whole less -vexatious. The chief event, however, involved an irreparable loss -to the expedition. This was the desertion, on the night of the -thirtieth of August, of three soldiers, who wantonly took with -them all the manuscripts completed by Dr. Say and Lieutenant Swift -since leaving the Missouri. The stolen books contained notes on -the manners, habits, history, and languages of the Indians, and on -the animals which had been examined, a journal of the expedition, -and a mass of topographical data. During part of the journey, -Bell's party was even more astray than Long's. Soon after passing -the Great Bend of the Arkansas, they mistook the Nennescah River -for the Negracka, or Salt Fork of the Arkansas; similar errors -added to their bewilderment, and for some time they were unaware -whether they were near Fort Smith or still far distant--until, on -the first of September, they met friendly Osage Indians near -Verdigris River. They reached Fort Smith on the ninth. - -From Fort Smith the reunited party followed the Arkansas to the -Cherokee towns on Illinois Creek, in Pope County, Arkansas, whence -they proceeded overland directly to Cape Girardeau, Missouri. -James and Swift, parting from their companions at the Cherokee -towns, visited the Arkansas Hot Springs, now a famous health -resort, and returning to the Arkansas at Little Rock, also crossed -the country to Cape Girardeau, where all members of the expedition -were assembled on October 12. Here nearly all of the party were -attacked by intermittent fever. - -Two or three weeks later, the expedition being now disbanded, -Major Long and Captain Bell set out for Washington, leaving their -colleagues to act according to their own pleasure. About the first -of November, Messrs. Say, Seymour, and Peale departed by -steamboat, intending to return home by way of New Orleans. They -were accompanied by Lieutenant Graham, who, on completion of the -special duties assigned to him at Engineer Cantonment, had met the -exploring party at Cape Girardeau with the "Western Engineer." -Lieutenant Swift and Dr. James essayed to ascend the Ohio to -Louisville with the vessel; but at Golconda, Illinois, James -experienced a recurrence of fever, which for some time prevented -his proceeding farther, while Swift, leaving the boat at -Smithland, Kentucky, continued his journey on horseback. - -James's _Account_ is the only narrative of the expedition, and his -connection with the party gives his work the authority of an -official report. Moreover, he not only had access to the notes of -his associates, but received much personal assistance, especially -from Long and Say. The original edition was published at -Philadelphia in 1823, by Carey and Lea; it consisted of two -volumes of 503 and 442 pages respectively, containing James's -narrative, with appendices giving a catalogue of animals observed -at Engineer Cantonment, the Indian sign language, Indian speeches -at the councils held by Major O'Fallon, astronomical and -meteorological records, and vocabularies of Indian languages, -especially those of the Oto, Kansa, Omaha, Sioux, Minitaree, and -Pawnee tribes. Extracts from Major Long's report to the secretary -of war, dated January 20, 1821, and from the report made by his -assistants to Long on the mineralogy and geology of the region -explored, were incorporated in the second volume. A third volume -contained the maps and plates, and the edition was provided with a -brief index and "Preliminary Notice." - -The same year another edition was published in London, by Longman, -Hurst, Rees, Orme, & Brown. This edition, the one selected by us -for reprinting, was in three volumes, and contained the text -essentially as printed in the Philadelphia edition.[8] In the -arrangement of notes, however, a different plan was adopted; in -the Philadelphia issue, all annotation was given at the foot of -the appropriate pages, while in the London edition the notes for -each volume were grouped in the back of the book. In the present -reprint the former plan is followed. The Preliminary Notice found -in the Philadelphia edition was omitted from the London version, -but is supplied in the present reprint. The appendices giving -astronomical and meteorological data and Indian vocabularies, -which were omitted from the London edition, are also included in -our reprint. Finally, instead of the atlas which accompanied the -Philadelphia edition, selected illustrations, including a map of -the region explored, were incorporated with the text in the -various volumes of the London print. - -In certain ways the results of the expedition were disappointing, -even to those persons whose expectations were far less extravagant -than the Missourian who had declared that "ten years shall not -pass away before we shall have the rich productions of [China] -transported from Canton to the Columbia, up that river to -the mountains, over the mountains and down the Missouri and -Mississippi, all the way (mountains and all), by the potent power -of steam." To this class, the report which the expedition made on -the trans-Mississippi country was far from encouraging. Said Major -Long in his final estimate: "In regard to this extensive section -of country, I do not hesitate in giving the opinion, that it is -almost wholly unfit for cultivation, and of course uninhabitable -by a people depending upon agriculture for their subsistence. -Although tracts of fertile land considerably extensive are -occasionally to be met with, yet the scarcity of wood and water, -almost uniformly prevalent, will prove an insuperable obstacle -in the way of settling the country. This objection rests not -only against the section immediately under consideration, but -applies with equal propriety to a much larger portion of the -country. . . . This region, however, viewed as a frontier, may -prove of infinite importance to the United States, inasmuch as -it is calculated to serve as a barrier to prevent too great an -extension of our population westward, and secure us against the -machinations or incursions of an enemy that might otherwise be -disposed to annoy us in that part of our frontier." In similar -vein is the comment of Dr. James: "We have little apprehension of -giving too unfavourable an account of this portion of the country. -Though the soil is in some places fertile, the want of timber, -of navigable streams, and of water for the necessities of life, -render it an unfit residence for any but a nomad population. The -traveller who shall at any time have traversed its desolate sands, -will, we think, join us in the wish that this region may for ever -remain the unmolested haunt of the native hunter, the bison, and -the jackall." Such a verdict was not welcomed by an expansive -people, eager to enter into and possess a land which imagination -pictured as suitable for the seat of an empire. - -The teeming animal life of the great plains might have suggested -to Long and his associates its adaptability to the needs of man; -but for the occupation of the land without political peril, at -least two agencies were required, which were, in their day, hardly -more than dreams. We cannot blame the explorers for failing to -anticipate the marvels of the railroad and the irrigating ditch; -indeed, the repulse of the agricultural vanguard which attempted -the invasion of the plains west of the hundredth meridian only -half a generation ago, vindicates the prediction that the country -could not be possessed by methods then known. It may be doubted -whether their conservatism was not wiser than the confidence of -the more ardent expansionists; yet it is doubtless true that their -report, by depreciating the estimate of the value of the region, -put weapons into the hands of those Eastern men who cherished a -traditional jealousy of Westward expansion, and caused the -government rather to follow than to lead the movement. - -Another apparent ground for criticism is the failure of the -expedition to accomplish either of the great objects mentioned in -the instructions--the discovery of the sources of the Platte and -of the Red. The readiness with which the explorers relinquished -their efforts to penetrate the mountains at the cañons of the -Platte and Arkansas, although the season was midsummer, seems to -indicate inefficiency as well as indifference to instructions. -Likewise, when the Canadian was reached and mistaken for the Red, -no effort was made to ascend the stream to its source; the -explorers were content to descend the river, leaving the exact -location of its head undetermined. Some excuse for this conduct is -afforded by the inadequacy of the equipment provided by Congress -for this enterprise. The federal government supplied six horses; -the remainder of the thirty-four were furnished by the members of -the party. "Our saddles and other articles of equipage," wrote -James, "were of the rudest kind, being, with a few exceptions, -such as we had purchased from the Indians, or constructed -ourselves;" and, he adds, that the "very inadequate outfit . . . was -the utmost our united means enabled us to furnish." Consequently, -the party was compelled to subsist largely upon the country -explored, and its movements were in no small degree dictated by -the fear of want. That many of the hardships experienced were due -to the slender outfit, is proved by the comparative comfort with -which later parties followed in their footsteps. Twenty-five years -afterwards, Colonel Abert, starting from Bent's Fort, on the upper -Arkansas, not many miles from the point where Long's forces had -divided, crossed the upland to the Canadian and descended to its -mouth, following essentially Long's route, and making the whole -journey in wagons, for which, save in a few places, a smooth -course was found. This party succeeded in finding sufficient water -at almost every camp, while the entire trip resembled more an -outing for pleasure than it did the harrowing journey of Major -Long. The route up the Canadian afterward became a much-used -pathway to New Mexico.[9] - -When all allowances have been made, much carelessness is evident -in the explorations of the Long expedition. The bewilderment -of Bell's party was inexcusable in men of science possessing -instruments for determining latitude and longitude; their -geographical errors to some extent nullified their observations -of natural features. Cimarron River, the most important tributary -of the Arkansas next to the Canadian, they missed entirely, and -the relative size and location of the tributaries of the Arkansas -remained uncertain for years after. Upon beginning the descent -of the Arkansas they travelled two hundred miles without, so -far as James's _Account_ shows, making a note on geography or -topography; but possibly some allowance for this omission should -be made because of the theft of manuscripts by the deserters. Of -the itinerary of the expedition from the Platte to the Canadian, -it has been said, "It would be scarcely possible to find in -any narrative of Western history so careless an itinerary, -and in a scientific report like that of Dr. James it is quite -inexcusable."[10] To the account of the country traversed by -the expedition, James added information relative to portions of -Arkansas and Louisiana, much of which was already accessible to -the public through the reports and writings of Hunter and Dunbar, -Sibley, Darby, Stoddard, Schoolcraft, and others. However, this -portion of James's narrative also draws data from Major Long's -manuscript journals, not elsewhere available, and gives the -only account of the attempted exploration of Red River under -Captain Richard Sparks, based on the memoranda of members of the -expedition. - -After all criticisms have been urged to the utmost, the work of -the expedition was, and is, of considerable value. The exploration -of the Canadian River was an important contribution to American -geography. It was thenceforth evident that the sources of the -Red must be looked for farther south than had previously been -supposed, although a generation was to elapse before their -discovery. Otherwise, the exploration added greatly to the -knowledge of a portion of the country but imperfectly known -through hunters and traders. Especially is this true as regards -details relative to natural history and ethnology; for the work -was done in the spirit of modern scientific investigation, and in -this respect anticipated later expeditions, for which American -public sentiment in 1820 was hardly ripe. The collections included -more than sixty skins of new or rare animals, several thousand -insects, of which many hundreds were new, nearly five hundred -undescribed plants, mineral specimens, many new species of shells, -numerous fossils, a hundred and twenty-two animal sketches, and a -hundred and fifty landscape views. While not primarily designed as -a scientific report on these collections, James's _Account_ gives -in the form of notes[11] much of the more important information -derived from them. Perhaps no other portions of the work, -however equal in value those devoted to the aborigines; as an -authoritative source of knowledge of the sociology of the Kansa -and Omaha tribes, the _Account_ has no rival. - -Soon after his return from the Rockies, Major Long was sent upon -another expedition, this time to the sources of the St. Peter's -(now Minnesota) River. This enterprise was contemplated by the -original instructions issued to Long at the time of the -Yellowstone project; but the subsequent abandonment of the latter -compelled alterations in the programme of the scientific division. -As in the case of the first journey, the report of the St. Peter's -exploration is the work of another person--William H. Keating, -author of _Long's Expedition to the Source of St. Peter's River, -Lake of the Woods, etc._ (Philadelphia, 2 vols., 1824). - -For these several explorations, Long was breveted lieutenant-colonel. -In 1827 he assumed charge of the survey of the Baltimore & Ohio -Railroad, and for many years thereafter was much engaged in -railroad engineering. His _Railroad Manual_ (1829) was the first -original treatise on railroad building published in this country. -Upon the organization of the Topographical Engineers as a separate -corps (1838), he became a major; later (1861) he was made chief of -the corps, with the rank of colonel. He was retired from active -service in 1863, still being entrusted with important duties, which -were interrupted by his death, occurring at Alton, Illinois, the -following year. - -After the publication of his account of Long's expedition, Dr. -James received an appointment as army surgeon, and was on the -frontier for six years, which he utilized in studying Indian -dialects; during this period he translated the New Testament into -the Chippewa tongue (1833), and published _The Narrative of John -Tanner_ (New York, 1830), the story of a child who had been -stolen by the Indians, and became a well-known interpreter. -Resigning his army post (1830), James became associate editor of -the _Temperance Herald and Journal_, at Albany; later (1834) he -removed to Iowa, and settled (1836) as an agriculturist near -Burlington, where he died in 1861. - -In the preparation for the press of this reprint of James's -_Account_, the Editor has had throughout the assistance of Homer -C. Hockett, B.A., instructor in history in the University of -qWisconsin. - R. G. T. - MADISON. WIS., March, 1905. - - -FOOTNOTES: - - [1] See statement of the objects of the expedition by Secretary - Calhoun, in _American State Papers_, "Military Affairs," ii, p. - 33. - - - [2] See quotations from contemporary sources in Chittenden, - _American Fur Trade_, ii, p. 562 _et seq._ Chapter ii of that - volume gives a good account of the Yellowstone expedition. - - - [3] See Preliminary Notice to the Philadelphia edition (1823), - which we supply in its proper place in the present reprint--it - having been omitted from the London edition which we follow. - - - [4] Henry Atkinson of North Carolina, became captain in the - Third Infantry in 1808. His subsequent record, as given in - Powell, _List of Officers of the U. S. Army_, is as follows: - "Col. I. G. 25 April, 1813. Col. 4th Inf., 15 April, 1814. - Trans. to 37th Inf., 22 April, 1814. Trans. to 6th Inf., 17 May, - 1815. Brig. Gen. 13 May, 1820. Col. A. G., 1 June, 1821 which he - declined, and on 16 Aug., 1821, was assigned as Col. 6th Inf. - Retained as Col., 21 Aug., with Bvt. rank of Brig. Gen., 13 May, - 1820. Died 14 June, 1842." - - - [5] Atkinson had contrived a device similar to the paddle-wheel - of a steamer, for propelling keel-boats, but operated by men. It - was afterwards used successfully. - - - [6] See the description of this boat given in note 145, _post_. - - - [7] For biographical sketches see footnote 1 of text. - - - [8] There are in the two editions differences in phraseology, - and each contains a few paragraphs omitted from the other. As a - rule these differences are of minor importance; where important, - the footnotes to the reprint give both readings. The London - edition contains a complete copy of Long's report in place of - mere extracts. - - - [9] The expedition was the most extensive which had been sent - out by the government, up to that time; and, as the _North - American Review_ remarked, was "in many respects much better - qualified and fitted out than Lewis and Clark." Nevertheless, - in commenting on the sentence in the Preliminary Notice, in - which James explains the scarcity of means for the expedition - as due to the state of the national finances, the same journal - exclaims: "Detestable parsimony! The only country but one in - the world, that has not been reduced to an avowed or virtual - bankruptcy; the country, which has grown and is growing in - wealth and prosperity beyond any other and beyond all other - nations, too poor to pay a few gentlemen and soldiers for - exploring its mighty rivers, and taking possession of the - empires, which Providence has called it to govern!" - - - [10] Chittenden, _American Fur Trade_, ii, p. 578. - - - [11] We have, for convenience, signed James's name to - all notes reprinted by us from the original issue; it should - be understood, however, that several members of the party - contributed these notes--some of them being indicated therein, - and others not. - - - - -PART I OF JAMES'S ACCOUNT OF S. H. LONG'S EXPEDITION, 1819-1820 - - -Preliminary Notice reprinted from Volume I of Philadelphia -edition, 1823. Text reprinted from Volume I of London edition, -1823. - - [Illustration: _Map of the Country_ drained by the - _MISSISSIPPI_.] - - - - - [Illustration: Facsimile of title-page to Volume I of James's - _Account_ - - ACCOUNT - - OF AN - - EXPEDITION - - FROM PITTSBURGH - - TO - - THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, - - PERFORMED - IN THE YEARS 1819, 1820. - - BY ORDER OF THE - HON. J. C. CALHOUN, SECRETARY OF WAR, - UNDER THE COMMAND OF - MAJ. S. H. LONG, OF THE U. S. TOP. ENGINEERS. - - COMPILED - FROM THE NOTES OF MAJOR LONG, MR. T. SAY, - AND OTHER GENTLEMEN OF THE PARTY, - BY EDWIN JAMES, - BOTANIST AND GEOLOGIST TO THE EXPEDITION. - - _IN THREE VOLUMES._ - VOL. I. - - LONDON: - PRINTED FOR - LONGMAN, HURST, REES, ORME, AND BROWN, - PATERNOSTER-ROW. - 1823. - ] - - - - - TO - - THE HONOURABLE - - JOHN C. CALHOUN, - - SECRETARY OF WAR; - - WHOSE LIBERAL VIEWS, ENLIGHTENED POLICY, AND - JUDICIOUS MEASURES, - WHILE THEY HAVE BEEN PROSECUTED WITH THE UTMOST - CIRCUMSPECTION AND ECONOMY, - HAVE CONTRIBUTED IN AN EMINENT DEGREE - TO THE - ADVANCEMENT OF THE NATIONAL CHARACTER OF THE - UNITED STATES, - BOTH IN SCIENCE AND POLITICS; - THE FOLLOWING PAGES - ARE MOST RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED BY - THE AUTHORS, - AS A FEEBLE TESTIMONIAL OF - THEIR HIGH CONSIDERATION OF HIS TALENTS AND - PATRIOTISM, AND A GRATEFUL ACKNOWLEDGEMENT - OF HIS INDULGENCE AND PATRONAGE. - - - - -PRELIMINARY NOTICE - - [From the Philadelphia edition, 1823] - - -In selecting from a large mass of notes and journals the materials -of the following volumes, our design has been to present a -compendious account of the labors of the Exploring Party, and of -such of their discoveries as were thought likely to gratify a -liberal curiosity. It was not deemed necessary to preserve -uniformity of style, at the expense of substituting the language -of a compiler for that of an original observer. Important -contributions of entire passages from Major Long and Mr. Say, will -be recognized in various parts of the work, though we have not -always been careful to indicate the place of their introduction. -Those gentlemen have indeed been constantly attentive to the work, -both to the preparation of the manuscript and its revision for the -press. - -In the following pages we hope to have contributed something -towards a more thorough acquaintance with the Aborigines of our -country. In other parts of our narrative where this interesting -topic could not be introduced, we have turned our attention -towards the phenomena of nature, to the varied and beautiful -productions of animal and vegetable life, and to the more -magnificent if less attractive features of the inorganic creation. - -{2} If in this attempt we have failed to produce any thing to -amuse or instruct, the deficiency is in ourselves. The few minute -descriptions of animals and plants that were thought admissible, -have been placed as marginal notes, and we hope they will not be -the less acceptable to the scientific reader, for being given in -the order in which they occurred to our notice. - -Descriptions of the greater number of the animals and plants -collected on the Expedition, remain to be given. These may be -expected to appear from time to time, either in periodical -journals or in some other form. - -Not aspiring to be considered historians of the regions we -traversed, we only aimed at giving a sketch true at the moment of -our visit, and which, as far as it embraces the permanent features -of nature, will we trust, be corroborated by those who shall -follow our steps. Much remains to be done not only on the ground -we have occupied, but in those vast regions in the interior of our -continent, to which the foot of civilized man has never -penetrated. We cannot but hope, that the enlightened spirit which -has already evinced itself in directing a part of the energies of -the nation, towards the development of the physical resources of -our country, will be allowed still farther to operate; that the -time will arrive, when we shall no longer be indebted to the men -of foreign countries, for a knowledge of any of the products of -our own soil, or for our opinions in science. - -We feel it a duty incumbent upon us, to acknowledge our -obligations to many distinguished individuals, both {3} military -and scientific, and particularly to several members of the -Philosophical Society at Philadelphia, for their prompt offers -of any aid in their power to contribute towards advancing the -objects of the expedition at its commencement. We are indebted -more especially to Professors James, Walsh, and Patterson, to -Dr. Dewees and Mr. Duponceau; each of whom furnished a number -of queries, and a list of objects, by which to direct our -observations. These we found eminently useful, and we regret to -state that, with many of our manuscripts they were inadvertently -mislaid, otherwise, they should have been published in this place, -for the information of future travellers. - -An interesting communication from Messrs. Gordon and Wells, of -Smithland, Kentucky, was received after the first volume had gone -to press, consequently too late for insertion. - -As a farther introduction to our narrative, we subjoin an extract -from the orders of the Honourable Secretary of War to Major Long, -exhibiting an outline of the plan and objects of the Expedition. - - "You will assume the command of the Expedition to explore the - country between the Mississippi and the Rocky Mountains." - - "You will first explore the Missouri and its principal - branches, and then, in succession, Red river, Arkansa and - Mississippi, above the mouth of the Missouri." - - "The object of the Expedition, is to acquire as thorough and - accurate knowledge as may be practicable, of a portion of our - country, which is daily becoming {4} more interesting, but - which is as yet imperfectly known. With this view, you will - permit nothing worthy of notice, to escape your attention. You - will ascertain the latitude and longitude of remarkable points - with all possible precision. You will if practicable, - ascertain some point in the 49th parallel of latitude, which - separates our possessions from those of Great Britain. A - knowledge of the extent of our limits will tend to prevent - collision between our traders and theirs." - - "You will enter in your journal, every thing interesting in - relation to soil, face of the country, water courses and - productions, whether animal, vegetable, or mineral." - - "You will conciliate the Indians by kindness and presents, and - will ascertain, as far as practicable, the number and - character of the various tribes, with the extent of country - claimed by each." - - "Great confidence is reposed in the acquirements and zeal of - the citizens who will accompany the Expedition for scientific - purposes, and a confident hope is entertained, that their - duties will be performed in such a manner, as to add both to - their own reputation and that of our country." - - "The Instructions of Mr. Jefferson to Capt. Lewis, which are - printed in his travels, will afford you many valuable - suggestions, of which as far as applicable, you will avail - yourself." - -It will be perceived that the travels and researches of the -Expedition, have been far less extensive than {5} those -contemplated in the foregoing orders:--the state of the national -finances, during the year 1821, having called for retrenchments in -all expenditures of a public nature,--the means necessary for the -farther prosecution of the objects of the Expedition, were -accordingly withheld. - - - - -EXPEDITION FROM PITTSBURGH TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS - - [PART I.] - - - - -CHAPTER I - - Departure from Pittsburgh--North-western slope of the - Alleghany Mountains--Rapids of the Ohio. - - -Early in April, 1819, the several persons constituting the -exploring party had assembled at Pittsburgh. It had been our -intention to commence the descent of the Ohio, before the middle -of that month; but some unavoidable delays in the completion of -the steam boat, and in the preparations necessary for a long -voyage, prevented our departure until the first of May. On the -31st of March, the following instructions were issued by the -commanding officer, giving an outline of the services to be -performed by the party, and assigning to each individual[001] the -appropriate duties:-- - - "Pursuant to orders from the Hon. Secretary of War, Major Long - assumes the command of the expedition about to engage in - exploring the Mississippi, Missouri, and their navigable - tributaries, on board the United States' steam-boat, Western - Engineer. - - "The commanding officer will direct the movements and - operations of the expedition, both in relation {2} to military - and scientific pursuits. A strict observance of all orders, - whether written or verbal, emanating from him, will be - required of all connected with the expedition. The prime - object of the expedition being a topographical description of - the country to be explored, the commanding officer will avail - himself of any assistance he may require of any persons on - board to aid in taking the necessary observations. In this - branch of duty, Lieutenant Graham and Cadet Swift will - officiate as his immediate assistants. - - "The journal of the expedition will be kept by Major Biddle, - whose duty it will be to record all transactions of the party - that concern the objects of the expedition, to describe the - manners and customs, &c. of the inhabitants of the country - through which we may pass; to trace in a compendious manner - the history of the towns, villages, and tribes of Indians we - may visit; to review the writings of other travellers, and - compare their statements with our own observations; and in - general to record whatever may be of interest to the community - in a civil point of view, not interfering with the records to - be kept by the naturalists attached to the expedition. - - "Dr. Baldwin will act as botanist for the expedition. A - description of all the products of vegetation, common or - peculiar to the countries we may traverse, will be required of - him, also the diseases prevailing among the inhabitants, - whether civilized or savages, and their probable causes, will - be subjects for his investigation; any variety in the anatomy - of the human frame, or any other phenomena observable in our - species, will be particularly noted by him. Dr. Baldwin will - also officiate as physician and surgeon for the expedition. - - "Mr. Say will examine and describe any objects in zoology, and - its several branches, that may come under our observation. A - classification of all land and water animals, insects, &c. and - a particular description {3} of the animal remains found in a - concrete state will be required of him. - - "Geology, so far as it relates to earths, minerals, and - fossils, distinguishing the primitive, transition, secondary, - and alluvial formations and deposits, will afford subjects of - investigation for Mr. Jessup. In this science, as also in - botany and zoology, facts will be required without regard to - the theories or hypotheses that have been advanced on numerous - occasions by men of science. - - "Mr. Peale will officiate as assistant naturalist. In the - several departments above enumerated, his services will be - required in collecting specimens suitable to be preserved, in - drafting and delineating them, in preserving the skins, &c. of - animals, and in sketching the stratifications of rocks, - earths, &c. as presented on the declivities of precipices. - - "Mr. Seymour, as painter for the expedition, will furnish - sketches of landscapes, whenever we meet with any distinguished - for their beauty and grandeur. He will also paint miniature - likenesses, or portraits, if required, of distinguished Indians, - and exhibit groups of savages engaged in celebrating their - festivals, or sitting in council, and in general illustrate any - subject, that may be deemed appropriate in his art. - - "Lieutenant Graham and Cadet Swift, in addition to the duties - they may perform in the capacity of assistant topographers, - will attend to drilling the boat's crew, in the exercise of - the musket, the field-piece, and the sabre. - - "Their duties will be assigned them, from time to time, by the - commanding officer. - - "All records kept on board the steam-boat, all subjects of - natural history, geology, and botany, all drawings, as also - journals of every kind relating to the expedition, will at all - times be subject to the inspection of the commanding officer, - and at the conclusion of each trip or voyage, will be placed - at his disposal, as agent for the United States' government. - - {4} "Orders will be given, from time to time, whenever the - commanding officer may deem them expedient. - - "S. H. LONG, _Major U. S. Engineers, - commanding Expedition_." - - -On the 3d of May we left the arsenal,[002] where the boat had been -built, and after exchanging a salute of twenty-two guns, began to -descend the Alleghany, towards Pittsburgh. Great numbers of -spectators lined the banks of the river, and their acclamations -were occasionally noticed by the discharge of ordnance on board -the boat. The important duties assigned the expedition rendered -its departure a subject of interest, and some peculiarities in the -structure of the boat attracted attention. - -We were furnished with an adequate supply of arms and ammunition, -and a collection of books and instruments. - -On Wednesday the 5th of May, having completed some alterations, -which it appeared necessary to make in our engine, and received on -board all our stores, we left Pittsburgh and proceeded on our -voyage. All the gentlemen of the party, except Dr. Baldwin, were -in good health, and entered upon this enterprise in good spirits -and with high expectations. Fourteen miles below Pittsburgh, we -passed a steam-boat lying aground; we received and returned their -salute, as is customary with the merchants' boats on the Ohio and -Mississippi. - -At evening we heard the cry of the whip-poor-will;[003] and among -other birds saw the pelecanus carbo, several turkey vultures, and -the tell-tale sand-piper. The spring was now rapidly advancing, -the dense forests of the Ohio bottoms were unfolding their -luxuriant foliage, and the scattered plantations assuming the -cheering aspect of summer. - -{5} A few weeks' residence at and near Pittsburgh, and several -journies across the Alleghany mountains, in different parts, have -afforded us the opportunity of collecting a few observations -relative to that important section of country, which contains the -sources of the Ohio. - -In the Alleghany river we found several of those little animals, -which have been described as a species of Proteus, but which to us -appear more properly to belong to the genus Triton.[004] - -The north-western slope of that range of mountains, known -collectively as the Alleghanies, has a moderate inclination -towards the bed of the Ohio, and the St. Lawrence, which run -nearly in opposite directions along its base. This mountain -chain extends uninterrupted along the Atlantic coast, from the -Gulf of St. Lawrence south-west to the great alluvial formation -of the Mississippi. It crosses the St. Lawrence at the rapids -above Quebec, and has been supposed to be connected as a spur -to a group of primitive mountains occupying a large portion of -the interior of the continent, north of the great Lakes.[005] An -inspection of any of the late maps of North America, will show -that this range holds the second place among the mountain chains -of this continent. All our rivers of the first magnitude have -their sources, either in the Rocky Mountains, or in elevated -spurs, projecting from the sides of that range. The largest of -the rivers, flowing from the Alleghanies, is the Ohio; and even -this, running almost parallel to the range, and receiving as -many, and, with a few exceptions, as large rivers from the north -as from the south, seems in a great measure independent of it. -From the most elevated part of the continent, at the sources -of the Platte, and Yellow Stone, branches of the Missouri, the -descent towards the Atlantic is at least {6} twice obstructed by -ranges of hills nearly parallel, in direction, to each other. -Erroneous impressions have heretofore prevailed respecting the -character of that part of the country called the Mississippi -Valley. If we consider attentively that extensive portion of our -continent, drained by the Mississippi, we shall find it naturally -divided into two nearly equal sections. This division is made by -a range of hilly country, to be hereafter particularly described, -running from near the north-western angle of the Gulf of Mexico -north-eastwardly to Lake Superior. Eastward, from this range, -to the summit of the Alleghanies, extends a country of forests, -having usually a deep and fertile soil, reposing upon extensive -strata of argillaceous sandstone, compact limestone, and other -secondary rocks. Though these rocks extend almost to the highest -summits of the Alleghanies, and retain even there the horizontal -position which they have in the plains, the region they underlay -is not to be considered as forming a district of table lands. -On the contrary, its surface is varied by deep vallies and -lofty hills; and there are extensive tracts elevated probably -not less than eight hundred feet above the Atlantic ocean. The -north-western slope of the Alleghany mountains, though more -gradual than the south-eastern, is, like it, divided by deep -vallies, parallel to the general direction of the range. In these -vallies, many of the rivers, which derive their sources from -the interior and most elevated hills of the group, pursue their -courses for many miles, descending either towards the south-west, -or the north-east, until they at length acquire sufficient force -to break through the opposing ridges, whence they afterward pursue -a more direct course. As instances, we may mention the Monongahela -river, which runs nearly parallel, but in an opposite direction, -to the Ohio; the great Kenhawa, whose course above the falls forms -an acute angle with the part below; also the Cumberland, and -Tennessee, which run a {7} long distance parallel to each other, -and to the Ohio. This fact seems to justify the inference, that -some other agent than the rivers has been active in the production -of the vallies between the subordinate ridges of the Alleghany. -There appears some reason to believe that the rocky hills, along -the immediate course of the Ohio and the larger western rivers, -have received, at least, their present form from the operation of -streams of water. They do not, like the accessory ridges of the -Alleghany, form high and continuous chains, apparently influencing -the direction of rivers, but present groups of conic eminences -separated by water-worn vallies, and having a sort of symmetric -arrangement. The structure of these hills does not so much differ -from that of the Alleghany mountains, as their form and position. -The long chains of hills, which form the ascent to the Alleghany, -on the western side, are based either on metalliferous limestone, -or some of the inclined rocks belonging to the transition -formation of Werner, and have their summits capped with the -more recent secondary aggregates in strata without inclination, -and greatly resembling those found in the plains west of the -Ohio. It is not easy to conceive how these horizontal strata, -unless originally continuous, should appear so similar at equal -elevations in different hills, and hills separated by vallies of -several miles in width. If that convulsion which produced the -inclination of the strata, of the metalliferous limestone, the -clay-slate, and the gray wacke, happened before the deposition -of the compact limestone, and the argillaceous sandstones, why -are not these later aggregates found principally in the vallies, -where their integrant particles would be supposed most readily to -have accumulated? On the other hand, if the secondary rocks had -been deposited previous to that supposed change, how have their -stratifications retained the original horizontal {8} position, -while that of the transition strata has been changed? - -Most of the rivers which descend from the western side of the -Alleghany mountains are of inconsiderable magnitude, and by -no means remarkable, on account of the straightness of their -course, or the rapidity of their currents. The maps accompanying -this work, will, in the most satisfactory manner, illustrate the -great contrast in this respect, between the district now under -consideration and the eastern slope of the Rocky Mountains. -The Tennessee, the Cumberland, the Kentucky, the Kenhawa and -Alleghany rivers, though traversed in their courses by rocky -dikes, sometimes compressing their beds into a narrow compass, -occasioning rapids, and in other instances causing perpendicular -falls, yet compared to the Platte, and the western tributaries -of the Missouri generally, can be considered neither shoal nor -rapid. Their immediate banks are permanent, often rocky, and -the sloping beach covered with trees or shrubs, and the water, -except in time of high floods, nearly transparent. The waters of -the Ohio, and its tributaries, and perhaps of most other rivers, -when they do not suspend such quantities of earthy matter as to -destroy their transparency, reflect, from beneath their surface, -a greenish colour. This colour has been thought to be, in some -instances, occasioned by minute confervas, or other floating -plants, or to result from the decomposition of decaying vegetable -matter. That it depends on neither of these causes, however, is -sufficiently manifest, for when seen by transmitted light, the -green waters are usually transparent and colourless. Some rivers -of Switzerland, and some of South America, which descend from -lofty primitive mountains, consisting of rocks of the most flinty -and indestructible composition, covered with perpetual snows, -and almost destitute of organic beings, or exuviæ, either animal -or {9} vegetable, and whose waters have a temperature, even in -summer, raised but a few degrees above the freezing point, which -circumstance, together with the rapidity of their currents, -render them unfit for the abode of vegetable life, and is -incompatible with the existence of putrefaction, notwithstanding -the transparency of their waters, and the reddish, or yellowish -colour of the rocks which pave their beds, have a tinge of green, -like the Ohio and Cumberland, at times of low water. It is well -known that the water of the ocean, though more transparent than -any other, is usually green near the shores; and on soundings, -while at main ocean, its colour is blue. Perhaps the power which -transparent waters have of decomposing the solar light, and -reflecting principally the green rays, may have some dependence -upon the depth of the stratum. If this were the case, we might -expect all rivers, equally transparent and of equal depth, to -reflect similar colours, which is not always the case. - -In the southern part of Pennsylvania, the range called particularly -the Alleghany ridge, is near the centre, and is most elevated of -the group. Its summit divides the waters of the Susquehannah on the -east from those of the Ohio on the west. - -This mountain consists principally of argillite and the several -varieties of grey wacke, grey wacke slate, and the other -aggregates, which in transition formations usually intervene -between the metalliferous limestone and the inclined sandstone. -The strata have less inclination than in the Cove, Sideling, and -South mountains, and other ridges east of the Alleghany. The -summit is broad, and covered with heavy forests. Something of the -fertility of the Mississippi valley seems to extend, in this -direction, to the utmost limits of the secondary formation. The -western descent of the Alleghany ridge is more gradual than the -eastern, and the inclination of the strata in some measure -reversed. It is proper to remark, that, {10} throughout this group -of mountains, much irregularity prevails in the direction as well -as of the dip and inclination of strata. If any remark is -generally applicable, it is, perhaps, that the inclination of the -rocks is towards the most elevated summits in the vicinity. - -Laurel ridge, the next in succession, is separated from the -Alleghany by a wide valley. Its geological features are, in -general, similar to those of the eastern ranges; but about its -summit, the sandstones of the coal formation begin to appear -alternating with narrow beds of bituminous clay-slate. Near the -summit of this ridge, coal beds have been explored, and, at the -time of our visit, coals were sold at the pits for ten cents per -bushel. In actual elevation, the coal strata at the summit of -Laurel-hill, fall but little below the summits of the Alleghany. -Thus, in traversing from east to west the state of Pennsylvania, -there is a constant but gradual ascent from the gneiss at -Philadelphia, the several rocky strata occurring one above -another, in the inverse order of their respective ages, the points -most elevated being occupied by rocks of recent origin, abounding -in the remains of animal and vegetable life. - -Near the summit of this ridge some change is observed in the -aspect of the forest. The deep umbrageous hue of the hemlock -spruce, the Weymouth pine, and other trees of the family of -the coniferæ, is exchanged for the livelier verdure of the -broad-leaved laurel, the rhododendron, and the magnolia acuminata. - -Chesnut ridge, the last of those accessary to the Alleghany on the -west, deserving the name of a mountain, is somewhat more abrupt -and precipitous, than those before mentioned. This ridge is -divided transversely by the bed of the Loyalhanna, a rapid, but -beautiful stream, along which the turnpike is built. Few spots in -the wild and mountainous regions {11} of the Alleghanies, have a -more grand and majestic scenery than this chasm. The sides and -summits of the two overhanging mountains, were, at the time of our -journey, brown, and to appearance almost naked; the few trees -which inhabit them being deciduous, while the laurels and rosebays -gave the deep and narrow vallies the luxuriant verdure of spring. - -The Monongahela rises in Virginia, in the Laurel ridge, and -running northward, receives in Pennsylvania the Yohogany, whose -sources are in the Alleghany mountain, opposite those of the -Potomac. This river, like most of those descending westward from -the Alleghany, has falls and rapids at the points where it -intersects Laurel-hill, and some of the smaller ranges. Along the -fertile bottoms of the Alleghany river, we begin to discover -traces of those ancient works so common in the lower parts of the -Mississippi valley, the only remaining vestiges of a people once -numerous and powerful, of whom time has destroyed every other -record. These colossal monuments, whatever may have been the -design of their erection, have long since outlived the memory of -those who raised them, and will remain for ages affecting -witnesses of the instability of national, as well as individual -greatness; and of the futility of those efforts, by which man -endeavours to attach his name and his memorial to the most -permanent and indestructible forms of inorganic matter. - -In the deep vallies west of the Alleghany, and even west of the -Laurel ridge, the metalliferous limestone, which appears to be the -substratum of this whole group of mountains, is again laid bare. -In this part of the range, we have not observed those frequent -alternations of clay-slate with this limestone, which have been -noticed by Mr. Eaton and others in New England.[006] In its -inclination, and in most particulars {12} of external character, it -is remarkably similar to the mountain limestone of Vermont, and the -western counties of Massachusetts. Many portions of the interior -of the state of Pennsylvania have a basis of this limestone. When -not overlaid by clay-slate, and particularly when not in connexion -with sandstone, the soils resting on the transition limestone are -found peculiarly fertile and valuable, having usually a favourable -disposition of surface for agricultural purposes, and abounding -with excellent water. - -The transition limestone is not, however, of frequent occurrence -westward of the Alleghany ridge. It appears only in the -vallies,[007] and is succeeded by clay-slate and the old sandstone -lying almost horizontally. The coal, with the accompanying strata -of argillaceous sandstone and shale, are, as far as we have seen, -entirely horizontal. - -The country westward from the base of the Chesnut ridge has an -undulating surface. The hills are broad, and terminated by a -rounded outline, and the landscape, presenting a grateful variety -of fields and forests, is often beautiful, particularly when, from -some elevation, the view overlooks a great extent of country, and -the blue summits of the distant mountains are added to the -perspective. - -Pittsburgh has been so often described, the advantages and -disadvantages of its situation, and the gloomy repulsiveness of -its appearance, have been so often and so justly portrayed, that -we should not think ourselves well employed in recounting our own -observations. The Alleghany and the Monongahela at Pittsburgh, -where they unite to form the Ohio, are nearly equal in magnitude; -the former, however, on account of the rapidity of its current, -and the transparency of its waters, is a far more beautiful river -than the latter. Its sources are distributed along the margin of -Lake Erie, and a portage, of only fifteen miles, connects its -navigation with that of the St. Lawrence. - -{13} About the sources of the Alleghany are extensive forests of -pine, whence are drawn great supplies of lumber for the country -below as far as New Orleans. On French Creek, and other tributary -streams, are large bodies of low and rather fertile lands, closely -covered with forests, where the great Weymouth pine, and the -hemlock spruce, are intermixed with beech, birch, and the sugar -maple. The great white or Weymouth pine, is one of the most -beautiful of the North American species. Its trunk often attains -the diameter of five or six feet, rising smooth and straight from -sixty to eighty feet, and terminated by a dense conical top. This -tree, though not exclusively confined to the northern parts of our -continent, attains there its greatest magnitude and perfection. It -forms a striking feature in the forest scenery of Vermont, New -Hampshire, and some parts of Canada, and New York; rising by -nearly half its elevation above the summits of the other trees, -and resembling, like the palms of the tropics, so beautifully -described by M. De Saint Pierre, and M. De Humboldt, "a forest -planted upon another forest."[008] The sighing of the wind in the -tops of these trees, resembles the scarce audible murmurings of a -distant waterfall, and adds greatly to the impression of solemnity -produced by the gloom and silence of the pine forest. In the -southern parts of the Alleghany mountains, pines are less -frequent, and in the central portions of the valley of the -Mississippi, they are extremely rare. - -The coal formation, containing the beds which have long been -wrought near Pittsburgh, appears to be of great extent; but we are -unable particularly to point out its limits towards the north and -east.[009] One hundred miles above Pittsburgh, near the Alleghany -river, is a spring, on the surface of {14} whose waters are found -such quantities of a bituminous oil, that a person may gather -several gallons in a day. This spring is most probably connected -with coal strata, as are numerous similar ones in Ohio, Kentucky, -&c.[010] Indeed, it appears reasonable to believe that the coal -strata are continued along the western slope of the Alleghanies -with little interruption, at least as far northward as the brine -springs of Onondago. Of all the saline springs belonging to this -formation, and whose waters are used for the manufacture of salt, -the most important are those of the Kenhawa, a river of Virginia. -Others occur in that country of ancient monuments, about Paint -Creek, between the Sciota and the Muskinghum, near the Silver -Creek hills in Illinois; and indeed in almost all the country -contiguous to the Ohio river. Wherever we have had the opportunity -of observing these brine springs, we have usually found them in -connexion with an argillaceous sandstone, bearing impressions of -phytolytes, culmaria, and those tessellated zoophytes, so common -about many coal beds.[011] It appeared to us worthy of remark, that -in many places, where explorations have been made for salt water, -and where perpendicular shafts have been carried to the depth of -from two to four hundred feet, the water, when found, rises with -sufficient force to elevate itself several feet above the surface -of the earth. This effect appears to be produced by the pressure -of an aërial fluid, existing in connexion with the water, in those -cavities beneath the strata of sandstone, where the latter is -confined, or escaping from combination with it, as soon as the -requisite enlargement is given, by perforating the superincumbent -strata. We have had no opportunity of examining attentively the -gaseous substances which escape from the brine pits, but from -their sensible properties we are induced to suppose, that carbonic -acid, and carburetted hydrogen, are among those of most frequent -occurrence.[012] - -{15} The little village of Olean,[013] on the Alleghany river, has -been for many years a point of embarkation, where great numbers of -families, migrating from the northern and eastern states, have -exchanged their various methods, of slow and laborious progression -by land, for the more convenient one of the navigation of the -Ohio. From Olean downward, the Alleghany and Ohio bear along with -their currents fleets of rude arks laden with cattle, horses, -household furniture, agricultural implements, and numerous -families having all their possessions embarked on the same bottom, -and floating onward toward that imaginary region of happiness and -contentment, which, like the "town of the brave and generous -spirits," the expected heaven of the aboriginal American, lies -always "beyond the place where the sun goes down." - -This method of transportation, though sometimes speedy and -convenient, is attended with uncertainty and danger. A moderate -wind blowing up the river, produces such swells in some parts of -the Ohio, as to endanger the safety of the ark; and these heavy -unmanageable vessels are with difficulty so guided in their -descent, as to avoid the _planters_, sunken logs, and other -concealed obstructions to the navigation of the Ohio. We have -known many instances of boats of this kind so suddenly sunk, as -only to afford time for the escape of the persons on board. - -On the 6th we arrived at Wheeling,[014] a small town of Virginia, -situate on a narrow margin along the bank of the Ohio, at the base -of a high cliff of sandstone. Here the great national road from -Cumberland comes in conjunction with that of Zanesville, Columbus, -and Cincinnati. The town of Cumberland, from which this great -national work has received the appellation of the Cumberland road, -lies on the north side of the Potomac, one hundred and forty miles -E. by S. from Wheeling. The road between these two points was -constructed by the government {16} of the United States, at a cost -of one million eight hundred thousand dollars.[015] The bridges and -other works of masonry, on the western portion of this road, are -built of a compact argillaceous sandstone, of a light gray or -yellowish white colour, less durable than the stone used in the -middle and eastern sections, which is the blue metalliferous -limestone, one of the most beautiful and imperishable among the -materials for building which our country affords. A few miles from -Wheeling, a small but beautiful bridge, forming a part of this -road, is ornamented with a statue of that distinguished statesman, -Mr. Clay; erected, as we were informed, by a gentleman who resides -in that neighbourhood. - -In an excursion on shore, near the little village of Charleston, -[016] in Virginia, we met with many plants common to the eastern -side of the Alleghanies; beside the delicate sison bulbosum, whose -fruit was now nearly ripened. In shady situations we found the -rocks, and even the trunks of trees to some little distance from -the ground, closely covered with the sedum ternatum, with white -flowers fully unfolded. The cercis canadensis, and the cornus -florida, were now expanding their flowers, and in some places -occurred so frequently, as to impart their lively colouring to the -landscape. In their walks on shore, the gentlemen of the party -collected great numbers of the early-flowering herbaceous plants, -common to various parts of the United States.[017] An enumeration -of a few of the species most commonly known, with the dates of -their flowering, is given in the note. - -The scenery of the banks of the Ohio, for two or three hundred -miles below Pittsburgh, is eminently beautiful, but is deficient -in grandeur and variety. The hills usually approach on both sides -nearly to the brink of the river; they have a rounded and graceful -form, and are so grouped as to produce a pleasing effect. Broad -and gentle swells of two or three hundred feet, covered with the -verdure of the almost unbroken {17} forest, embosom a calm and -majestic river; from whose unruffled surface, the broad outline of -the hills is reflected with a distinctness equal to that with -which it is imprinted upon the azure vault of the sky. In a few -instances near the summits of the hills, the forest trees become -so scattered, as to disclose here and there a rude mass, or a -perpendicular precipice of gray sandstone, or compact limestone, -the prevailing rocks in all this region. The hills are, however, -usually covered with soil on all sides, except that looking -towards the river, and in most instances are susceptible of -cultivation to their summits. These hilly lands are found capable -of yielding, by ordinary methods of culture, about fifty bushels -of maize per acre. They were originally covered with dense and -uninterrupted forests, in which the beech trees were those of most -frequent occurrence. These forests are now disappearing before the -industry of man; and the rapid increase of population and wealth, -which a few years have produced, speaks loudly in favour of the -healthfulness of the climate, and of the internal resources of the -country. The difficulty of establishing an indisputable title to -lands, has been a cause operating hitherto to retard the progress -of settlement, in some of the most fertile parts of the country of -the Ohio; and the inconveniences resulting from this source still -continue to be felt. - -On the 7th, we passed the mouth of the Kenhawa, and the little -village of Point Pleasant. The spot now occupied by this village -is rendered memorable, on account of the recollections connected -with one of the most affecting incidents in the history of the -aboriginal population. It was here that a battle was fought, in -the autumn of 1774, between the collected forces of the Shawanees, -Mingoes, and Delawares on one side, and a detachment of the -Virginia militia, on the other. In this battle, Logan, _the friend -of the whites_, avenged himself in a signal manner of the injuries -of one man, by whom all his women {18} and children had been -murdered. Notwithstanding his intrepid conduct, the Indians were -defeated, and sued for peace; but Logan disdained to be seen among -the suppliants. He would not turn on his heel to save his life. -"For my country," said he, "I rejoice in the beams of peace; but, -do not harbour a thought that mine is the joy of fear. Logan never -felt fear. Who is there to mourn for Logan! Not one." This story -is eloquently related by Mr. Jefferson, in his "Notes on -Virginia," and is familiar to the recollection of all who have -read that valuable work.[018] - -In the afternoon of the 8th, we encountered a tremendous -thunder-storm, in which our boat, in spite of all the exertions we -were able to make, was driven on shore; but we fortunately escaped -with little injury, losing only our flag-staff with the lantern -attached to it, and some other articles of little importance. On -the following day we passed Maysville,[019] a small town of -Kentucky. On our return to Philadelphia, in 1821, we were delayed -some time at this place; and taking advantage of the opportunity -thus afforded, we made an excursion into that beautiful -agricultural district, south-east of Maysville, about the large -village of Washington.[020] The uplands here are extremely fertile, -and in an advanced state of cultivation. The disposition of the -surface resembles that in the most moderately hilly parts of -Pennsylvania; and to the same graceful undulation of the -landscape, the same pleasing alternation of cultivated fields, -with dense and umbrageous forests, is added an aspect of -luxuriant fertility, surpassing any thing we have seen eastward of -the Alleghanies. Having prolonged our walk many miles, we entered -after sunset a tall grove of elms and hickories; towards which we -were attracted by some unusual sounds. Directed by these, we at -length reached an open quadrangular area of several acres, where -the forest had been in part cleared away, and much grass had -sprung up. Here we found several hundreds of people, part sitting -{19} in tents and booths, regularly arranged around the area, and -lighted with lamps, candles, and fires; part assembled about an -elevated station, listening to religious exhortations. The night -had now become dark, and the heavy gloom of the forest, rendered -more conspicuous by the feeble light of the encampment, together -with the apparent solemnity of the great numbers of people, -assembled for religious worship, made considerable impression on -our feelings. - -On the 9th May, we arrived at Cincinnati.[021] Since our departure -from Pittsburgh, Dr. Baldwin's illness had increased, and he had -now become so unwell, that some delay appeared necessary on his -account; as we wished also for an opportunity of making some -repairs and alterations in the machinery of the boat, it was -resolved to remain at Cincinnati some days. Dr. Baldwin was -accordingly moved on shore, to the house of Mr. Glen, and Dr. -Drake was requested to attend him. Cincinnati is the largest town -on the Ohio. It is on the north bank of the river, and the ground -on which it stands is elevated, rising gradually from the water's -edge.[022] - -Compact limestone appears here, in the bed of the Ohio, and -extends some distance in all directions. This limestone has been -used in paving the streets, for which purpose its tabular -fragments are placed on edge, as bricks are sometimes used in -flagging. The formation of limestone, to which this rock belongs, -is one of great extent, occupying a large part of the country from -the shores of Lake Erie, to the southern boundary of the state of -Tennessee.[023] It appears, however, to be occasionally -interrupted, or overlaid by fields of sandstone. It abounds in -casts, and {20} impressions of marine animals. An orthocerite, in -the museum of the college[024] at Cincinnati, measures near three -feet in length. Very large specimens of what has been considered -lignite, have also been discovered and parts of them deposited in -that collection. We saw here no remains of ammonites. Numerous -other species appear to be similar to those found in the limestone -of the Catskill and Hellebergh mountains. - -The soil, which overlays the limestone of Cincinnati, is a deep -argillaceous loam, intermixed with much animal and vegetable -matter. Vegetation is here luxuriant; and many plants unknown -eastward of the Alleghany mountains, were constantly presenting -themselves to our notice. Two species of æsculus are common. One -of these has a nut as large as that of the Æ. hippocastanum, of -the Mediterranean, the common horse-chesnut of the gardens. - -These nuts are round, and after a little exposure become -black, except in that part which originally formed the point -of attachment to the receptacle, which is an oblong spot -three-fourths of an inch in diameter; the whole bearing some -resemblance to the eyeball of a deer, or other animal. Hence the -name _buck-eye_, which is applied to the tree. The several species -of æsculus are confined principally to the western states and -territories. In allusion to this circumstance, the indigenous -backwoodsman is sometimes called buck-eye, in distinction from -the numerous emigrants who are introducing themselves from the -eastern states. The opprobrious name of Yankee is applied to -these last, who do not always stand high in the estimation of the -natives of the south and west. Few of these sectional prejudices -are, however, to be discovered in Ohio, the greater part of the -population here having been derived from New England. Cincinnati, -which in 1810, contained 2500 inhabitants, is now said to number -about 12,000.[025] Its plan is regular, and most of the buildings -are of {21} brick. The dwellings are neat and capacious, and -sometimes elegant. - -The site of the town was heretofore an aboriginal station, as -appears from the numerous remains of ancient works still visible. -We forbear to give any account of these interesting monuments, as -they have already been repeatedly described.[026] - -On Tuesday, the 18th, the weather becoming clear and pleasant, Dr. -Baldwin thought himself sufficiently recovered to proceed on the -voyage; accordingly, having assisted him on board the boat, we -left Cincinnati at ten o'clock. - -During our stay at that place, we had been gratified by the -hospitable attentions of the inhabitants of the town. Mr. Glen was -unremitting in his exertions to promote the recovery of Dr. -Baldwin's health; to him, as well as to Dr. Drake, and several -other gentlemen of Cincinnati, all the members of our party were -indebted for many friendly attentions. - -Below Cincinnati the scenery of the Ohio becomes more monotonous -than above. The hills recede from the river, and are less elevated. -Heavy forests cover the banks on either side, and intercept -the view from all distant objects. This is, however, somewhat -compensated by the magnificence of the forests themselves. Here the -majestic platanus attains its greatest dimensions, and the snowy -whiteness of its branches is advantageously contrasted with the -deep verdure of the cotton-wood, and other trees which occur in the -low grounds. - -The occidental plane tree is, perhaps, the grandest of the -American forest trees, and little inferior, in any respect, to the -boasted plane tree of the Levant. The platanus orientalis attains, -in its native forests, a diameter of from ten to sixteen feet. An -American plane tree, which we measured, on the bank of the Ohio, -between Cincinnati and the rapids at Louisville, was fourteen feet -in diameter. One which stood, some years since, near the village -of {22} Marietta, was found, by M. Michaux, to measure 15-7/10 ft. -in diameter, at twenty feet from the ground.[027] They often rise -to an elevation of one hundred and fifty feet. The branches are -very large and numerous, forming a spreading top, densely covered -with foliage. Many of those trees, which attain the greatest size, -are decayed in the interior of the trunk, long after the annual -increase continues to be added at the exterior circumference. The -growth of the American plane tree does not appear to be very -rapid. It was remarked by Humboldt, that in the hot and damp lands -of North America, between the Mississippi and the Alleghany -mountains, the growth of trees is about one-fifth more rapid than -in Europe, taking for examples the platanus occidentalis, the -liriodendron tulipifera, and the cupressus disticha, all of which -reach from nine to fifteen feet in diameter. It is his opinion -that the growth in these trees does not exceed a foot in diameter -in ten years.[028] As far as our observation has enabled us to -judge, this estimate rather exceeds than falls short of the truth. -This growth is greatly exceeded in rapidity by the baobab, and -other trees in the tropical parts of America; also by the gigantic -adansonia of the eastern continent,[029] and equalled, perhaps, by -several trees in our own climate, whose duration is less extended -than that of those above mentioned.[030] - -The sycamore, or occidental plane tree, has been cultivated for -more than one hundred and eighty years in England, yet it does not -appear to have become entirely naturalized there, as we are -informed by President Smith,[031] that great numbers were killed by -the severe frost of the winters of 1810-11. In America this tree -is very widely distributed, and {23} extends northward beyond the -forty-fifth degree of north latitude. In the fertile alluvial -lands of Otter Creek, and other rivers which discharge into Lake -Champlain, the sycamore attains more than one-half the magnitude -which it is seen to reach in the most prolific portions of the -Mississippi valley; it appears, therefore, that some other cause -than the frigidity of the climate, must have occasioned the -destruction of the plane trees in England, since it is well known -that the winters of Vermont and Lower Canada far surpass in -severity those of the island of Great Britain. - -The fruit of the sycamore is the favourite food of the paroquet, -and large flocks of these gaily-plumed birds constantly enliven -the gloomy forests of the Ohio. - -During the night of the 18th, the weather being clear, we -continued on our voyage, as is customary with most of the -steam-boats navigating the Ohio. - -It was long since remarked by Mr. Schulz,[032] and considered by -him as an inexplicable circumstance, that the reflection, by -night, of the image of the banks of the Ohio, does not furnish an -infallible guide to the middle of the bed of the river. Nothing -is more manifest than that the banks at different places, having -different degrees of elevation, and being sometimes naked, and -sometimes covered with very tall trees, must, of necessity, cast -shadows of different lengths, upon the surface of the water; -consequently that the luminous stripe along the middle of the -river, from the surface of which the sky and the stars are -reflected, must be greatly subject to irregularities in position -and direction. This circumstance often proves very annoying to -inexperienced pilots, who attempt to navigate the Ohio, or any -other river of similar character, by night, as we have had -occasion in many instances to experience. - -On the morning of the 19th we arrived at Louisville[033] having -passed, in the night, the boats containing {24} the sixth regiment -of infantry, then on their way to the Missouri. At Louisville, we -stopped to procure a pilot to conduct our boat over the rapids. -Two or three pilots appointed pursuant to an act of the -legislature of Kentucky, reside at Louisville, always holding -themselves in readiness to go on board such boats as are about to -descend the rapids, and leaving them again at Shippingsport; for -which service they are entitled to receive two dollars for each -ark or raft. - -At these rapids, called usually the falls of the Ohio, the river -descends about twenty-two feet, in a distance of less than two -miles. At times of high water an acceleration of current, not -usual in other parts of the river, is all that is perceived in -passing down this descent: at other times the water is dashed and -broken upon the rocky and uneven bed of the channel, called the -_Indian chute_, through which a great part of the water passes. -The magnificence of a cataract is, however, at no time displayed -here; and it is only in peculiar conditions of the atmosphere, -that the noise of the fall can be heard at the distance of -one-fourth of a mile from the bank of the river. - -Large boats ascend the rapids at the time of the spring floods, by -the aid of a cable made fast to a tree, or some other object -above, and taken in by the capstan. In 1821, the Maysville, a -steam-boat of about two hundred tons, was taken up, and had nearly -reached the head of the rapid, when the cable broke; and the boat -swinging round, was thrown against the rocks, in the bed of the -river, and placed in such a situation as to render hopeless all -attempts to get her off before the next annual rise of the water. -Arks and small barges descend, by the aid of skilful pilots, for -great part of the year. It is expected that the navigation of this -dangerous rapid will soon be rendered more convenient, by -canaling, which can be accomplished at a very inconsiderable {25} -expense. The direction of the Ohio, above and below the rapids, is -nearly from north-east to south-west, but where the stream passes -the rocky obstruction occasioning the fall, it is a little -deflected from its course, making a bend towards the west. Thus a -point is formed on the south-eastern side projecting from the -elevated bank, which, from its present position, would seem to -indicate that the bed of the river had changed its place, having -formerly traversed the point from north-east to south-west, in a -direct line. In times of high floods the water is, in part, -discharged through this old channel, and large boats are said to -have ascended by that route within a few years past. - -On this point stands the small town of Shippingsport, at the foot -of the rapids.[034] The proposed canal will traverse the point in -the rear of this village. The obstacles to be encountered in -opening a canal at this place are but trifling. The soil is firm -and gravelly, being based on horizontal strata of compact -limestone, and fine argillaceous sandstone.[035] - -The sandstone, which is the rock of most common occurrence about -the rapids, very closely resembles that of Pittsburgh. It is -commonly of a compact texture, having an argillaceous cement, with -a laminated structure. At Shippingsport, and at Clarksville,[036] -in Indiana, it is succeeded by bituminous clay-slate. While we -were waiting at the rapids, several of the party made an excursion -to visit the boiling spring, at the foot of the Silver Creek -hills, in Indiana, at a little distance from New Albany.[037] This -spring is small, discharging no water above the surface of the -ground. It is an artificial excavation in the clayey bank of a -small stream, called Fountain Creek. It is filled to the level of -the water in the creek, the spring itself evidently discharging -very little, if any water. That which fills the basin is turbid, -being kept in constant agitation by the bubbles of inflammable air -which rise through it. The {26} smell of sulphuretted hydrogen is -perceptible at considerable distance about the spring; and a piece -of silver, held near the surface of the water, was quickly -tarnished. The Silver Creek hills are of argillaceous sandstone, -and secondary clay-slate; and this spring seems to be placed near -the meeting of the two strata. - -In the bed of the Ohio, opposite Shippingsport, is a tabular mass -of rocks, visible above water for great part of the year, and -called Corn Island.[038] On the highest parts of this, are -remaining some small portions of the limestone stratum, which -appears in many places to have been worn through, and removed by -the river. Five or six acres of the surface of this island are of -the smooth compact argillaceous sandrock before mentioned, lying -horizontally, and divided into squares and parallelograms by the -natural fissures. These fissures contain some soil which supports, -in the summer, a dense growth of herbaceous plants. Among these, -we noticed the hypericum sphæcrocarpum of Michaux, (apparently not -the plant mentioned by Nuttall, under that name, which has been -noticed near Philadelphia, by Collins and others, but without -doubt that originally described by Michaux). Two species of -andropogon, the panicum virgatum, solanum nigrum, polygala -verticillata, leplanthus gramineus, chenopodium botrys, &c. The -lower part of the island is covered with loose sand; bearing some -small cotton-wood and willow trees. - -The unenclosed grounds, about Louisville and Shippingsport, are -extensive, and afford pasturage to great numbers of domestic -animals. They are, however, much overrun with luxuriant weeds. -The datura strammonium, which is common in every part of Ohio, -is sometimes eaten by sheep; and the spiny capsules of the -seed, when about half ripened, we have seen eaten with apparent -avidity by cows. In addition to this loathsome plant, the common -May-weed (anthemis cotula) has become abundant {27} in all the -waste-grounds, to the exclusion of the native plants. A few of -these, which keep their places with the greatest obstinacy by the -road sides, are the sida abutilon and S. spinosa, and the verbena -hastata; while the thistles, chrysanthemums and Johnsworts, so -common about old fields in New England, are not to be met with. The -eleusine mucronata, of _Pursh_, is one of the most frequent grasses -along the streets. - -The Silver Creek hills are elevated about one hundred and fifty or -two hundred feet above the level of the country in the rear of -Jeffersonville.[039] They form a continuous range, crossing the -country from north to south. On the Kentucky side they constitute -the commencement of a rugged and barren district, called the -_Knobs_, and extending far to the south.[040] At some remote period -this range may have formed a barrier, extending across what is now -the immediate valley of the Ohio, and retarding the retreat of the -waters from the tract above the falls.[041] Coal occurs frequently -in this range of hills, on the north side of the Ohio; quarries -have been opened near the Blue river, in Indiana, about the two -Pidgeons, opposite the mouth of Green river, and in various other -places.[042] - -The larger steam-boats which run on the Mississippi, and the Ohio, -ascend usually no farther than Shippingsport; and several of them -remain at this place, during several months of the summer, while -the water is too low to admit their passing up and down the -rivers. This time it is often necessary to spend in repairs of -various kinds. The high steam-engines require frequent repairs, -and in the difficult navigation of the Mississippi the hulks of -vessels are often injured. It frequently happens that the boats -built at Pittsburgh, and other places near the sources of the -Ohio, are, within three or four years after they {28} are -launched, in a condition to require the planking of the hulk to be -replaced with new timber. These boats are usually planked with the -upland white oak: we have been informed that such as are built -lower down on the river, and of timber found in the low grounds, -are more durable. - - -FOOTNOTES: - - [001] John Biddle, a Pennsylvanian, entered the army July - 6, 1812, as second lieutenant in the 3d Artillery. In March - following he became first lieutenant, and in the succeeding - October captain in the 42d Infantry. He was transferred - to the artillery corps in 1815, made major and assistant - inspector-general in 1817, and disbanded in 1821. He was in - Long's party only during the first season. - - William Baldwin (1779-1819), also of Pennsylvania, was the son - of a minister of the Society of Friends. He studied medicine - in the University of Pennsylvania, taking his degree in 1807. - Meanwhile he had become interested in botany, and upon - locating at Wilmington, Delaware, to practice his profession, - studied assiduously the flora of the vicinity. In 1811 - ill-health compelled him to remove to Georgia, but during the - War of 1812-15 he served as a surgeon in the army. In 1817 he - was a member of the special commission sent by the federal - government to investigate the affairs of the Spanish-American - colonies, then struggling for independence. Some of Dr. - Baldwin's writings were published in the _Transactions_ of the - American Philosophical Society and _Silliman's Journal_. He - died while upon the present expedition, and a further sketch - will be found in the text, _post_. - - Thomas Say (1787-1834) was also the son of a Pennsylvania - Friend, Benjamin Say, a physician, and one of the "fighting - Quakers" of the Revolution. Thomas was one of the founders of - the Academy of Natural Sciences at Philadelphia, and before - joining Long's expedition had taken part in a scientific - exploration of the coasts of Georgia and Florida. He accompanied - Major Long upon his later expedition up St. Peter's River. - In 1825 he joined the colony under Robert Dale Owen, at New - Harmony, Indiana. His principal work was _American Entomology_ - (Philadelphia, 3 vols., 1824-28). He is said to have discovered - more new species of insects than any predecessor, many of them - being discovered during the present exploration. - - Augustus Edward Jessup was born at New Richmond, Massachusetts, - in 1789, and although known chiefly as a prosperous Philadelphia - business man, was much interested in science, being an early - member of the Philadelphia Academy. He remained with the - expedition during the first season only. - - Titian Ramsey Peale (1800-1885) came of a family which has - produced a remarkable number of artists, the most notable - being a brother, Rembrandt. His father, an uncle, another - brother, and three cousins achieved more or less distinction - in that field. Like his father and brother, T. R. Peale - divided his attention between art and natural science. He was - an officer of the Philadelphia Academy, and author of - _Mammalia and Ornithology_ (1848). From 1838 to 1842 he was a - member of Lieutenant Charles Wilkes's exploring expedition to - the South Sea; during the years 1849-72 he was an examiner in - the patent office. - - The events of the life of Samuel Seymour are now not known. - - James D. Graham (1799-1865), a Virginian, was a West-Pointer - of the class of 1817. When ordered on Long's expedition he was - first lieutenant in the artillery corps. From 1822-29 was on - topographical duty in Vermont and elsewhere. This experience - was followed by a number of years of railroad surveying, and - he also took part in nearly all the federal boundary surveys - of the period, serving on the northeastern, Canadian, and - Mexican boundary commissions. During the later years of his - life he was in charge of harbor improvements on the Atlantic - coast and Great Lakes, and while engaged in the latter work - discovered the existence of lake tides. At the time of his - death he was colonel in the corps of engineers. - - William Henry Swift, of Massachusetts, was of mixed Puritan and - Huguenot stock. His father was an army surgeon, and a brother, - General Joseph Gardner Swift, was the first graduate of West - Point. William himself entered the military academy when but - thirteen years of age (1813), and as his class graduated during - his absence on Long's expedition, he was, under date of July 1, - 1819, promoted to a lieutenancy in the artillery corps. The map - of the country explored by the expedition was prepared by him. - His later career was notable--he was engaged especially on coast - improvements, fortifications, railroads, and canals; to him more - than to any one else is attributed the success of the Illinois - and Michigan canal. His collection of papers relative to the - latter was, upon his death, presented to the Chicago Historical - Society.--ED. - - - [002] Allegheny arsenal is on the Pittsburg side of Allegheny - River, opposite the upper end of McCullough's Island. The - grounds lie between Thirty-ninth and Fortieth streets. The - site was purchased in 1814; a wall inclosing the grounds was - completed in 1829. The arsenal was for many years used in the - manufacture of war materials, a force of twelve hundred men - being employed there during the War of Secession. Since 1868 - it has been used as a military post, and as a quartermaster's - depot. There were recently (1904) discovered there the principal - documents relating to the equipment of the Lewis and Clark - expedition, which was largely outfitted therefrom.--ED. - - - [003] Caprimulgus vociferus.--JAMES. - - - [004] _Triton lateralis._ SAY.--_Body_ and extremity above - brown, with irregular black spots; _tail_ much compressed, - subacutely edged above and beneath, lanceolate; a black vitta - from the nostrils passes through the eyes, and is dilated on the - sides, and becomes obsolete on the tail; a vertebral indented - line, from the neck to the origin of the caudal carina, more - faintly indented on the head; _head_ somewhat rectilineary - attenuated from the anterior branchia, to the vicinity of the - nostril, and truncate or subemarginate before; _nostrils_ - minute; _eyes_ very small, whitish, crossed with the lateral - line of the head; _beneath_ pale flesh-colour; _chin_ and _jaws_ - to the branchia, and _tail_ from the posterior feet, with the - exception of the areola of the anus, coloured like the back; - _mouth_ moderate, angles beneath the eyes; _lips_ covering - the jaws freely, inferior lip with a duplicature each side, - which is white and covered by the superior lip; _tongue_ free, - fleshy, rounded, extending beyond the angles of the mouth; - _teeth_, lower jaw in a single row, obtusely conic, small, - rather distant; a few smaller ones near the angle, elevated on - a slightly prominent portion of the jaw; _superior jaw_, with - a double series of teeth similar to the others, but rather - smaller, an unarmed depression corresponding with the elevation - in the lower jaw, and a few elevated teeth nearer the angle; - _throat_ with a duplicated cuticle; branchiæ permanent. Legs - short, weak, four-toed. - - Total length 10 inches, from the tip of the nose to the vent, - 6-1/2 inches. - - We caught this animal with the hook and line in the neighbourhood - of Pittsburgh, but it is by no means so common there as the - Salamandra Alleghaniensis of Michaux, or young alligator. - - The colour above is in reality pale, but it is rendered of a - brownish appearance by the very numerous confluent points of - that colour, which nearly cover the surface of the body; - branchia bright red; peduncles colour of the body. Daudin - informs us, that Schneider, in his history of Amphibia, - describes an animal very similar to this, found in Lake - Champlain, and which Daudin supposes to be the larva of - _Triton Alleghaniensis_; Daudin, however, is of the opinion, - that the hind feet were mutilated, from the circumstance of - their having only four toes. - - The late Professor B. S. Barton had heard of this animal, and - from the account he received, was led to regard it as a Siren. - - Finally, Dr. Mitchell has autoptically described the animal, - in the 4th vol. of Silliman's Journal, as a Proteus. - - Not supposing the _lateralis_ to belong, strictly speaking, to - either of these genera, and with a view to ascertain its real - nature, we obtained permission from the Academy of Natural - Science, to open a specimen belonging to their cabinet, and - which was brought from the Ohio by Mr. J. Speakman. The result - corresponded with our most confident expectations, showing - that the number of its vertebræ is greatly inferior to that of - the Proteus, and corresponding with that of the Tritons; and - that the pseudo ribs were in an entire series, somewhat - superior in proportional length and perfection of form to - those of the Proteus, and resembling those of the Triton. It - has, therefore, a far more close alliance with the genus - Triton, than with any other yet established. - - Several animals have been described, to which it is more - closely related by the character of the persistent branchia, - than it is to the well-known types of the genus, of which the - branchia disappear at the age of puberty. Of such animals the - following may be instanced: - - The _Axolotl_ of Mexico. Siren pisciformis of Shaw. Gen. Zool. - - The _Tetradactyla_ of Lacepede in the Ann. des Mus. vol. x. - - The _Siren Operculée_ of Beauvois in Philos. Trans. of Phila. - vol. iv. - - And possibly also, the _Proteus Neo Cæsariensis_ of Professor - Green.--Jour. A. N. S. vol. i. - - These four or five species might with propriety be separated - from the genus to which they are referable in the present - state of the system, and placed in a separate genus, the - external characters of which will be the same as those of - Triton, with the exception of the persistent branchia. Its - proper station will doubtless be intermediate between Triton - and Proteus, but far more closely related to the former. - - It may be proper to mention in this place, that the generic name - _Triton_, was applied by Laurenti to the Newts, long before - Montfort made use of it in Conchology to designate the war - conch of the ancient Romans, and of the present inhabitants of - Madison's Island. - - We are indebted to Dr. Richard Harlan, for the following - anatomical observations, on this singular animal. - - Alveolar margins of the maxillæ serrated, the spiculæ pointing - backwards towards the oesophagus. The oesophagus very large, like - that of the serpents, gradually expanding as it descends to - form the stomach, which again contracts at the commencement of - the intestinal tube; the lining membrane of the oesophagus and - stomach, thrown into longitudinal folds, which were continued - throughout the intestines; which tube undergoes several - enlargements in its course, giving it a sacculated appearance - similar to the alimentary canal of the alligator; in the animal - under consideration, they form several convolutions previous - to their termination into the cloaca; the stomach contained an - earth worm. The mesentery transparent, displaying a number of - very large lacteals, which, in the present instance, were filled - with coagulated chyle. Length of the intestines 10 inches. - The ovary is of considerable size, of an oblong figure, lying - close to the vertebræ, and opening by a straight duct into the - posterior part of the cloaca. _Liver_ very large, and apparently - (but not certainly) discharged its contents into the stomach. - _Lungs_ consist of two long membranous bags, which run the whole - length of the abdomen, anteriorly to the stomach and intestines; - the opening of the larynx scarcely large enough to admit a pin's - head; the lungs resemble two long air-bags, more than a true - pulmonary apparatus; the cartilaginous laminæ of the branchia, - three in number, attached superiorly to the integuments over the - cervical vertebræ, converging together beneath or anteriorly, - and are attached to a cartilage answering to the os hyoides; the - heart, which was extremely small, consisted apparently of one - auricle and one ventricle, the aorta soon bifurcated, sending - one branch to each pulmonary apparatus to be intimately ramified - upon the branchia, resembling so far the circulation of fishes, - and differing from the amphibia, in which there is either a - double or mixed circulation. - - Olfactory apparatus similar to that of fishes, viz. a small - aperture near the extremity of the snout leads into a cavity - or _cul de sac_, lined by a delicate membrane, plentifully - supplied by the fibrillæ of two slender olfactory nerves, - which go off from the anterior end of each lobe of the - cerebrum. The brain is of an oblong figure, the cerebrum is - formed of two lobes, the cerebellum of one lobe situate - directly posterior, not much thicker than the medulla - oblongata. The optic nerves, which were large in proportion to - the organs of vision, took their origin in a very unusual - manner. On either side of the medulla oblongata, is given off - a large nerve, which proceeds forwards and outwards, and soon - after it passes outside of the cavity of the cranium, it - divides into two branches, the smaller goes to the eye, the - larger is distributed to the superior maxilla. The eye itself - is small, and the lens which was coagulated by the spirits, is - about half the size of a pin's-head, and of the texture of the - lens of a fish when boiled. - - The number of vertebræ from the atlas to the last lumbar, is - exactly nineteen; to the transverse processes of all of them - (after the two first) is attached, by a movable articulation, - a small slender spicular of bone, or rib-like process, about - one-eighth of an inch in length, which at the same time, they - give origin to the large muscles that move the body, offer no - obstruction to the lateral curvatures of the animal when in - motion, but as to appearance or function are not to be - considered as ribs. The number of vertebræ from the first - sacral to the last caudal, is from twenty to thirty-five; they - become exceedingly small towards the end of the tail; on the - back part of the oesophagus, exterior to the cavity of the - cranium, is found on each side, a calcareous concretion, - similar to that in the head of the shark.--JAMES. - - - [005] Maclure.--JAMES. - - - [006] Geological Survey of Rensselaer county, p. 11.--JAMES. - - - [007] When central Pennsylvania began to seek an - outlet for her population, the fertility of the soil produced - by the disintegration of the limestone flooring of the - northeast-and-southwest valleys of the mountains, and the - barriers to Western migration imposed by the parallel ridges, - directed most of the pioneers southwestward.--ED. - - - [008] See Humboldt's Personal Narrative, vol. v. p. 46. Also St. - Pierre's Paul and Virginia.--JAMES. - - - [009] The great coal field of which that of western Pennsylvania - is a part, is eight hundred miles in length and one hundred and - eighty in width. Besides Pennsylvania, it includes southeastern - Ohio, the western part of Maryland, most of West Virginia, - portions of Kentucky and Tennessee, and the northern end of - Alabama. In Pennsylvania, the main field does not extend farther - north than a central east-and-west line, but several great - projections reach almost to the northern boundary. East of the - Alleghenies the deposits are anthracite, while the bituminous - fields occupy the southwestern section of the state.--ED. - - - [010] The uses of petroleum have been known from time - immemorial; but the quantities laboriously gathered from springs - like those here described were economically insignificant. The - importance of the industry dates from the discovery, in 1858, - that vast quantities of oil could be obtained by drilling wells. - The excitement which ensued was comparable to that caused - by finding gold in California. Among United States exports, - petroleum products now rank near the top of the column.--ED. - - - [011] James implies that the Onondaga salt deposits are in the - Carboniferous system. Such deposits, however, occur in almost - every geological system, from Silurian to Recent, and the New - York areas are found in the Silurian; the Kanawha salt district - is Carboniferous. The Onondaga springs were known to Jesuit - missionaries as early as 1646, and soon after were utilized in - making salt for the Indian trade. The existence of salt licks - and springs west of the mountains was an important factor in the - settlement of the trans-Allegheny country. The pioneers could - not have ventured so far from the coast without a native supply - of this necessity.--ED. - - - [012] So-called gas springs were known to settlers long before - any attempt was made to utilize the product; about 1821, - burners were first devised by which it was made to serve for - lighting purposes. For several years after the beginning of - the oil industry, gas was generally considered as a worthless - and troublesome by-product, and not many wells were drilled - for it until after 1870. The pressure of the gas is sometimes - enormous--as much as three hundred and fifty pounds to the - square inch has been noted. Natural gas consists essentially of - carburetted hydrogen.--ED. - - - [013] Olean is situated at the head of navigation of the - Allegheny, at the mouth of Olean Creek, in Cattaraugus County, - New York. The first settlers came prior to 1805. It was the - southern terminus of the Genesee Valley canal (begun in 1836), - until in the fifties when that waterway was extended to the - Pennsylvania line. The growth of Olean has been rapid since the - inception of the oil industry; it now being one of the most - important storage and shipping points in the oil fields.--ED. - - - [014] For sketch of Wheeling, see André Michaux's _Travels_, in - our volume iii, note 15.--ED. - - - [015] For note on national road, see Harris's _Journal_, in our - volume iii, note 45.--ED. - - - [016] Charleston, the seat of Kanawha County, West Virginia, - is situated on the Great Kanawha, about fifty miles above its - mouth. The site was included in a grant made (1772) by Lord - Dunmore, royal governor of Virginia, to Thomas Bullitt. In 1786 - Bullitt transferred his claim to George Clendenin, who was the - first settler on the spot; he built Clendenin's fort in 1786 or - 1787.--ED. - - - [017] _April_ 3d. Dentaria laciniata, Lamium amplexicaule, Draba - verna, Poa anua, Alsine media, Houstonia cerulea, Saxifraga - virginiensis. - - 4th. Anemone hepatica, _Hepatica triloba of Pursh_. Flowers - varying from blue to white. Alnus serulata, Carpinus Americanus, - Satyrium repens, root perennial. - - 9th. Collected in flower from the south-west side of the Ohio, - Sanguinaria canadensis, Hydrocotile bipinnata; root small and - round, with small tubers attached to the fibre like radicles, - flowers white. Poa brevi-folia. - - 13th. Glehoma hederacea; this plant covers not only the low - grounds, but the wildest hills, particularly in northern - exposures. Is it native? - - 24th. Pulmonaria Virginica: this is a predominant plant on the - islands, as well as along the shores of the Alleghany on both - sides. Epigæa repens, Phlox divaricata. - - 25th. Corydalis cucullaria, Trillium erectum, flowers varying - from dark purple to white. Anemone thalictroides, Carex - oligocarpa, Gnaphalium plantagineum, Potentilla sarmentosa, - Obolaria virginica, Acer saccharinum, and A. dasycarpum, still - flowering. Also the Celtis occidentalis, Ulmus Americana, and - Planera aquatica, past. - - 27th. Veronica peregrina, and Ranunculus celeratus; both - common in the wildest situations and apparently native. - - 28th. Stellaria pubera, Turritis lævigata, Arabis lyrata, - Viola pubescens, Ranunculus hirsutus, Thalictum dioicum, - Cercis canadensis, Cerastium vulgatum. - - 30th. Dentaria diphylla, Trillium sesile, Mitella diphylla, - Delphinium tricorne, Arabis thaliana, Caulophillum thalictroides. - - _May_ 1st. Carpinus Americanus, Vicia cracca, Ranunculus - abortivus, Saxifraga Pennsylvanica, Uvularia grandiflora, _Ph._ - - 3d. Geranium maculatum. Apple-tree flowering. Veronica - officinalis. _Dr. Baldwin's_ Diary.--JAMES. - - - [018] For Point Pleasant and the battle fought there, - see Thwaites and Kellogg, _Documentary History of Lord - Dunmore's War_ (Madison, Wis., 1905); Croghan's _Journals_, in - our volume i, note 101; and Bradbury's _Travels_, in our - volume v, note 156. Chief Logan was not present at this - battle. The full text of his famous speech is given in - Jefferson's "Notes on Virginia;" Ford, _Writings of Thomas - Jefferson_ (New York, 1894), iii, p. 156; Roosevelt, _Winning - of the West_ (New York, 1889), i, p. 237. It has long ranked - as one of the great masterpieces of Indian oratory; but its - genuineness was attacked by Luther Martin, of Maryland, and - others. A summary of the evidence pro and con is given in - Brantz, _Tah-Gah-Jute; or Logan and Cresap_ (Albany, 1867), - appendix No. 2. It is now generally conceded that it was - delivered by Logan substantially as we have it.--ED. - - - [019] For sketch of Maysville, see André Michaux's _Travels_, in - our volume iii, note 23.--ED. - - - [020] Washington, four miles southwest of Maysville, was - founded in 1786, and was an important town in the early days of - Kentucky. It was for some time the seat of Mason County.--ED. - - - [021] For the early history of Cincinnati, see Cuming's _Tour_, - in our volume iv, note 166.--ED. - - - [022] For sketches of Glen and Drake, see Nuttall's _Journal_, - in our volume xiii, note 35.--ED. - - - [023] Drake's Picture of Cincinnati, page 64. To that work, - Cranmer's [Cramer's] "Navigator," published at Pittsburgh in - 1814, and Gilleland's "Ohio and Mississippi Pilot," we refer our - readers for very minute, and in general very accurate, accounts - of the country along the Ohio.--JAMES. - - _Comment by Ed._ This area, known to geologists as the - "Cincinnati anticline," is co-extensive with the fertile blue - grass lands. It consists essentially of an island of Ordovician - (Lower Silurian) limestone, surrounded by the later systems. The - Ordovician system is especially characterized by mollusca of - the cephalopod class, to which _Orthoceras_ belongs, while the - Ammonites do not appear below the Devonian. - - - [024] Cincinnati College, the forerunner of Cincinnati - University, grew out of a school established in 1814 on the - model of the new English system of Lancaster and Bell. The - college was chartered in 1815. Possibly the reference is to the - recently-established medical college, for which see Nuttall's - _Journal_, in our volume xiii, note 35.--ED. - - - [025] Population by census of 1820, 9,642; of 1830, 24,831.--ED. - - - [026] The Cincinnati mounds are now obliterated. A good - description of them, with diagram, is given in _Smithsonian - Contributions to Knowledge_ (Washington, 1852), iii, art. - vii.--ED. - - - [027] Voy. a l' ouest des monts Alleghany, 1804. p. 93.--JAMES. - - _Comment by Ed._ See F. A. Michaux's _Travels_, in our volume - iii, p. 175. - - - [028] Pers. Nar. vol. i. p. 357. Philadelphia Edition.--JAMES. - - - [029] Salt's Abyssinia, p. 49. Amer. Edit.--JAMES. - - - [030] The cotton-wood-tree is of very rapid growth. It - has been ascertained that one individual, in the term of - twenty-one years, attained the height of one hundred and eight - feet, and nine inches, and the diameter of twenty and an half - inches, exclusive of the bark. _Barton's_ Supp. Med. and Phys. - Jour. p. 71.--JAMES. - - - [031] Sir James Edward Smith (1759-1828), founder and - first president of the Linnæan Society (1788).--ED. - - - [032] Charles Schultz, Jr., was the author of _Travels on an - inland voyage through the states of New York, Pennsylvania, - Virginia, Ohio, Kentucky, and Tennessee, and through the - territories of Indiana, Louisiana, Mississippi, and New Orleans; - performed in the years 1807 and 1808_ (New York, 1810).--ED. - - - [033] On Louisville and the Falls of the Ohio, see Croghan's - _Journals_, in our volume i, note 106.--ED. - - - [034] For sketch of Shippingsport, see Cuming's _Tour_, in our - volume iv, note 171.--ED. - - - [035] For the history of the canal at the Falls of the Ohio, see - Nuttall's _Journal_, in our volume xiii, note 40.--ED. - - - [036] On Clarksville see André Michaux's _Travels_, in our - volume iii, note 123.--ED. - - - [037] New Albany, founded in 1813, is just below Louisville, in - Floyd County, Indiana.--ED. - - - [038] Corn Island was the site of the first settlement - at Louisville. George Rogers Clark built a fort on the island - in the spring of 1778, to protect his supplies. The twenty - families who had followed him to Kentucky established - themselves at the lower end, where the land was most elevated, - and during the summer raised the crop of corn from which it is - said the island derived its name. It stood just above the - present Louisville-Albany bridge, in the elbow of the stream; - in Clark's time it had an area of at least seven acres, but it - has now been almost entirely obliterated both by the erosion - of the stream and the operations of a neighboring cement mill - which has used the island as a quarry.--ED. - - - [039] Jeffersonville, laid out in 1802, is opposite Louisville, - in Clark County, Indiana.--ED. - - - [040] The same name is applied locally to the hills which extend - nearly fifty miles to the northward of the river.--ED. - - - [041] Volney.--JAMES. - - _Comment by Ed._ Constantin François Chasseboeuf Boisgirais, - Comte de Volney, the French traveller and author, member of - the brilliant group which included Holbach, Madame Helvetius, - Voltaire, and the encyclopædists, the correspondent of Franklin - and the friend of Bonaparte, travelled extensively in the - interior of America during the years 1795 to 1799, and after - his return to France published an account of his observations - under the title, _Tableau du Climat et du Sol des Etats-Unis - d'Amérique_ (Paris, 1803). A translation was published in - Philadelphia the succeeding year. - - - [042] The Indiana coal fields are now known to embrace an area - of about seven thousand square miles, chiefly in the southwest - quarter of the state.--ED. - - - - -{29} CHAPTER II - - The Ohio below the Rapids at Louisville--Ascent of the - Mississippi from the mouth of the Ohio to St. Louis.[043] - - -Our small boat descended over the rapids without injury; and -having taken on board some wood near New Albany, we proceeded on -our voyage, with a pressure of steam equalling one hundred pounds -to the square inch, upon all parts of the engine exposed to its -immediate operation. This enabled us to descend, at the rate of -ten miles per hour. A small island in the Ohio, about twenty-three -miles below the rapids, is called Flint Island, from the great -numbers of fragments of flints, broken arrow points, and various -instruments of stone, heretofore used by the Indians, which are -found there on turning up the soil. This island has probably been -the favourite residence of some tribe, particularly expert in the -manufacture of those rude implements, with which the wants of the -aboriginal Americans were supplied. The stone employed in these -manufactures appears to have been, in most instances, that compact -flint, which occurs in nodular masses, in the secondary limestones. -In one instance we met with a triangular prism, of a very hard and -compact aggregate of felspar, and hornblende, unlike any rock we -have seen in the valley of the Mississippi. This prism was about -five inches long, with faces of about {30} an inch in width, and -was perforated, from end to end, forming a complete tube, with an -orifice about half an inch in diameter, and smoothly polished, -both within and without. We were never able to discover to what use -this implement could have been applied; nor do we recollect to have -met with accounts of any thing analogous to it, except, perhaps, -those "tubes of a very hard stone" mentioned by the Jesuit Venegas, -as used by the natives of California, in their treatment of the -sick.[044] That it may have passed, by means of the intercourse -of various tribes of Indians, from the primitive mountains of -California to the rapids of the Ohio, is not, perhaps, improbable. -Indirect methods of communication may have conveyed the productions -of one part of the continent to another very remote from it. The -savages of the Missouri receive an intoxicating bean from their -neighbours on the south and west; these again must probably procure -it from other tribes inhabiting, or occasionally visiting, the -tropical regions. - -In the Philadelphia museum are many Indian pipes of that red -indurated clay, found only (as far as hitherto known) on the Pipe -Stone branch of the Little Sioux river of the Missouri; one of -these, however, was found on the banks of the Rio de la Plata, in -South America: several were found in the territory now called New -England, and in the north-eastern part of the continent. - -On the 26th we passed the mouth of the Wabash, and arrived at -Shawaneetown,[045] ten miles below. Near the mouth of the Wabash, -an accident happened to the engine, which rendered it necessary -for us to drift down, until we should arrive at some place where -repairs might be made. Some of the gentlemen of the party -determined to go on shore, and walk to Shawaneetown. In swimming -across a creek, {31} three miles above that place, Lieutenant -Graham dropped his rifle in the water, and having spent some time -in attempts to recover it, did not arrive at Shawaneetown until -after the boat had reached that place. - -On the 27th, several of the party went out to hunt in the forests -and swamps, north-west of Shawaneetown. At about four miles' -distance from the Ohio, they arrived at the banks of a small pond, -three miles long, and only three or four hundred yards wide. Here -they killed a turkey; and some small birds. On the bank of the -pond, was found a specimen of the Lake Erie tortoise,[046] -depositing its eggs in the sand, at about twenty yards' distance -from the water. It had made, with its feet, a hole in the sand, -two inches in diameter and four inches in depth, enlarging towards -the bottom to three inches. This species occurs frequently in the -pools and stagnant waters along the Ohio. We first met with it -near the rapids at Louisville. Among other birds, we noticed about -Shawaneetown, the pileated woodpecker, the minute tern, numerous -flocks of the psittacus caroliniensis, two broods of young wood -duck, some gulls, and semipalmated sandpipers. The terns appear to -be attracted hither by great numbers of a species of phryganea, -with which we found the stomachs of some of them filled. The -semipalmated sandpipers were in large flocks, and did not appear -stationary. - -We left Shawaneetown at twelve o'clock on the 28th, and stopped -three miles below, to take in wood; then proceeding forward, at -four P. M. we ran aground on a sand bar, seven miles above the -"Cave Inn," or "House of Nature."[047] After much exertion, by -means of anchors and poles, with the aid of the engine, and all -the men, who were under the necessity of jumping into the river, -we at length {32} succeeded in getting her off, and ran down to -the cave, where we lay by for the night. - -Early the next morning, we went to visit the cave, of the entrance -to which two views were sketched by Mr. Seymour. It is a -perpendicular fissure, extending about one hundred and sixty feet -into the horizontal limestone cliffs, which here form the north -bank of the river. At times of high water, the Ohio flows in, and -fills the cave nearly to its roof. In this cave, it is said, great -numbers of large bones were some time ago found, but we saw no -remains of any thing of this kind. Impressions and casts of the -shells of submarine animals are seen in the rocks, forming the -sides of the cave, as in all the strata of compact limestone, in -this region. The organic remains here, do not appear to be so -numerous as those of the rocks at the falls, and at Cincinnati; -and are much less distinct, and visible in the fracture; indeed -the fracture generally exhibits to the eye no vestige of organic -remains. It is upon the surface only, and more especially in such -parts of it as are in a certain stage of decomposition, that they -are at all to be distinguished. - -As far as we could discover, they consist chiefly of the -caryophyllæ, similar to the radiated species, so common at the -falls of Ohio; of the encrinus, but of this our specimens were not -so perfect as to enable us to determine the analogy. Numerous -other remains were exhibited, but not sufficiently characterized -to be referred to their proper places in the system. The top of -the cliff, into which this fissure opens, is said to be the -favourite haunt of great numbers of birds of prey. This is not -improbable, as many hawks and birds of prey always choose high and -inaccessible cliffs to build their nests in. We saw about the tops -of these rocks, only one pair of hawks, which we took to be of the -red-shouldered species, (falco lineatus,) but a heavy rain, which -commenced soon after we had ascended, prevented {33} us from -procuring a specimen. About the cave, we found some fragments of -pottery, arrow points, and other articles of Indian manufacture. - -Near Shawaneetown are extensive salt manufactories, at a place -heretofore called United States' Saline, affording employment and -a source of trade to a part of the inhabitants of that village. -Common salt, with the nitrates of lime, potash, &c. occur in great -plenty, in connexion with the horizontal limestones and sandstones -on the Ohio. Of these we subjoin some account, from the -mineralogical report of Mr. Jessup.[048] - -On the 29th of May we passed the mouths of the Cumberland and -Tennessee, the two largest rivers, tributary to the Ohio. At the -mouth of the Cumberland is a little village called Smithland; -where, for a considerable part of the year, such goods are -deposited as are designed for Nashville and other places on the -Cumberland. - -The Cumberland and Tennessee rivers are, for many miles, nearly -parallel in direction, and at no great distance apart. Between -them are some low sandstone hills; but, we believe, no lofty range -of mountains, as has been sometimes represented. About these -hills, also, in the low ridges north of the Ohio, we found the -sandstone, which appears to be the basis rock, often overlaid with -extensive beds of a pudding-stone, wherein pebbles of white, -yellow, and variously coloured quartz, are united in a cement -highly tinged by oxide of iron; extensive fields of compact -limestone also occur in the same connexion. - -About half way between the mouth of the Cumberland and Tennessee, -near the old deserted settlement originally called Smithland,[049] -are several large catalpa trees. They do not, however, appear to -be native; nor have we here, or elsewhere, been able to discover -any confirmation of the opinion, that this tree is indigenous to -any part of the United States. - -It is here called _petalfra_, which, as well as catalpa, {34} the -received appellation, may be a corruption from Catawba, the name -of the tribe by whom, according to the suggestion of Mr. Nuttall, -the tree may have been introduced. Following the directions of the -Pittsburgh navigator,[050] we kept near the left shore, below the -Cave Inn; by which means we again ran our boat aground, on a -sand-bar, where we spent a considerable part of the night in the -most laborious exertions. These were at length crowned with -success; and having the boat once more afloat, we proceeded with -greater caution. - -On the 30th, we arrived at a point a little above the mouth of -Cash river, where a town has been laid out, called America.[051] It -is on the north bank of the Ohio, about eleven miles from the -Mississippi, and occupies the first heights on the former, secure -from the inundation of both these rivers (if we except a small -area three and a half miles below, where there are three Indian -mounds, situated on a tract containing about half an acre above -high-water mark). The land on both sides of the Ohio, below this -place, is subject to be overflowed to various depths, from six to -fourteen feet in time of floods; and on the south side, the flat -lands extend four or five miles above, separated from the high -country by lakes and marshes. The aspect of the country, in and -about the town, is rolling or moderately hilly, being the -commencement of the high lands between the two rivers above -mentioned; below it, however, the land is flat, having the -character of the low bottoms of the Ohio. The growth is -principally cotton-wood, sycamore, walnut, hickory, maple, oak, -&c. The soil is first-rate, and well suited to the cultivation of -all products common to a climate of 37 deg. N. lat. From the -extensive flat, or bottom, in its neighbourhood, and the heavy -growth of timber which here generally prevails, it is probable -that the place will be unhealthy, till extensive clearings are -made in its vicinity. - -This position may be considered as the head of constant {35} -navigation for the Mississippi. The Mississippi, from New Orleans -to the Ohio, is navigable for boats of the largest size; and -America may be considered as the head of constant as well as heavy -navigation. Ice is seldom to be found in the Mississippi as low -down as the mouth of the Ohio, and never in so large quantities as -to oppose any serious obstruction to the navigation. - -The navigation of the Ohio has a serious impediment about four and -a half miles above the town, occasioned by a limestone bar -extending across the river, called the Grand Chain. This bar is -impassable in the lowest stage of the water, and will not admit -boats of any considerable burden, except in the higher stages. - -The Mississippi has, in like manner, two bars, called the Big and -Little Chain, which appear to be a continuation of the same range -of rocks as that in the Ohio, extending across the point of land -situated between the two rivers. These bars are situated a little -above the Tyawapatia Bottom, about thirty miles above the mouth of -the Ohio, and in low water have but a moderate depth of water -across them; which, added to the rapidity of the current, -occasions a serious obstacle to the navigation. - -Boats suited to the navigation of both rivers above the bars here -specified, should be of inferior size; those for the Mississippi -not exceeding one hundred tons burden, and those for the Ohio from -fifty to seventy-five tons. - -Any position on the Mississippi in the neighbourhood of the Ohio -would be objectionable, for the following reasons:--First, The -rapidity of the current, which renders it difficult to find a safe -and commodious landing, there being no rocky-bound shore within -thirty miles above and a far greater distance below the point. The -Iron Banks,[052] seventeen miles below the mouth of the Ohio, have -been thought by some an eligible position for the extensive -business, {36} which, it is admitted by all, must centre in this -neighbourhood. But at this place there is no safe landing; and -besides, the banks are composed of layers of sand and clay -alternating with each other, of an acclivity nearly perpendicular, -and annually wearing away by the current of the river, which sets -strongly against them. These banks are elevated about one hundred -and thirty feet above the common level of the river, and are -insurmountable, except by a circuitous route, leading from the -river a considerable distance above and below them. - -Second, There are no positions on the Mississippi, except the Iron -and Chalk Banks, for a great distance below the Ohio, secure from -inundation. The bottom directly opposite the mouth of the Ohio, on -the west side of the Mississippi is elevated a little above high -water; but as it is an alluvial shore, having no permanent -foundation, and the banks often falling in, it affords no -conveniences or security as a place of business. - -Third, No places of anchorage for boats of heavy burden are to be -found, except in the main channel of the river, where they would -be exposed to drift-wood, great quantities of which are brought -down in times of freshet; and when borne along with the rapid -current of the river, occasion serious danger to boats lying in -its way. - -The town of America is almost entirely exempt from any of these -objections;--although it has not a rocky foundation, (which may be -said of most of the towns on the Ohio,) the current of the river -is so gentle, that no such guard against the undermining and -wasting away of the banks is required. In case of an excessive -flood, or an unusual quantity of floating ice (which may possibly -be apprehended in remarkably cold seasons), the mouth of Cash -river, five miles below the town, is a harbour in which boats may -lie in perfect security.[053] - -We would not encourage the idea, that the site {37} now fixed upon -as a town is exclusively the point where business is to be done; -but that the town will eventually extend along on that side of the -river about four miles, to the Big Chain above described. - -In view of the great extent of inland navigation centring at this -place, and the incalculable amount of products to be realized, at -no distant period, from the cultivation of the rich vallies and -fertile plains of the west, a great proportion of which must find -a market here, no doubt can be entertained that it will eventually -become a place of as great wealth and importance as almost any in -the United States. - -In the afternoon of the 30th we arrived at the mouth of the Ohio. - -This beautiful river has a course of one thousand and thirty-three -miles, through a country surpassed in fertility of soil by none in -the United States. Except in high floods, its water is transparent, -its current gentle, and nearly uniform. For more than half of its -course its banks are high, and its bed gravelly. With the exception -of about two miles at the rapids, at Louisville, it has sufficient -depth of water, for a part of the year, to float vessels of 300 -tons burthen to Cincinnati. The country which it washes may, with -propriety, be considered under two divisions. The first, extending -from its head at Pittsburgh to the little town of Rockport,[054] -about 150 miles below the falls or rapids at Louisville, is hilly. -This district forms a portion of one of the sides of that great -formation of secondary rocks, which occupies the basin of the -Mississippi and its tributaries. This formation, like others of -the same period, is rough, with small elevations, which are most -considerable on its borders, and diminish in proportion as we -approach nearer its central parts. - -Compact limestone, and sandstone of several varieties, are the -rocks which invariably occur along that portion of the Ohio we -are now considering. Sandstone of a light gray or ashen colour, -of a compact {38} texture, an argillaceous cement, and a slaty or -lamellated structure, is the most abundant, and occupies the lowest -points which we have hitherto been able to examine. This rock -frequently contains alternating beds of coal, bituminous shale, -and its accompanying minerals. The beds of compact limestone, -which occur in this region, usually rest upon the sandstone just -mentioned. Considered as a stratum, its distribution is the -reverse of that of the sandstone. It occupies the central and -least elevated portions of the formation; and on the borders where -the sandstone is most abundant, the limestone is of less extent -and of more uncommon occurrence. These remarks are applicable to -the hilly district on the upper portion of the Ohio river. From -Pittsburgh to Cincinnati, the prospect from the river is that -of hills of moderate elevation, sometimes rocky and abrupt, but -often sufficiently gradual in their ascent to admit of cultivation -to their summits. Their character, as to extent, direction, &c. -seems to be determined by the number, direction, and magnitude of -the streams which traverse them. They are the remains of what was -formerly a continuous and nearly horizontal stratum, with a large -deposit of superincumbent soil, which the flowing of water, during -the lapse of ages, has channelled and excavated to its present -form. These hills diminish in altitude as you approach the falls -from above; there they again rise to a height nearly equal to what -they attain at the head of the river, and from thence gradually -diminish, until they disappear, a little above the confluence of -the Ohio and Green[055] rivers. Here commences the low country, -which extends west to the Mississippi. It is characterized by -the great extent of the river alluvion, the increased width and -diminished velocity of the stream. The river banks are low, but -thickly wooded with sycamore, cotton-wood, river maple, the planera -aquatica, cypress, &c. The river hills, which terminate the -alluvial district, {39} are distant and low; and it often happens -that the surface descends on both sides, from the immediate banks -of the river to these hills. Hence, when the waters of the river -are sufficiently swollen to flow over its banks, they inundate -extensive tracts; from which they cannot return to the channel -of the river, and are left stagnant during the summer months, -poisoning the atmosphere with noxious exhalations. Many of these -inundated tracts have a soil of uncommon fertility, which it is -probable will hereafter be recovered from the dominion of the river -by dikes or levees. - -The beach or sloping part of the immediate bank of the Ohio, -throughout its whole extent, is of rather gradual ascent, and -covered with timber a considerable distance below high-water mark. -The average rapidity of the current of the Ohio is about two and a -half miles per hour, and the descent of its surface nine inches -per mile, as estimated by Dr. Drake of Cincinnati. The annual -inundations happen in the spring. The range between extreme high -and low water, in the upper part of the river, is more than 60 -feet; but below, where it is not confined by high banks, it is -much less. - -About the falls of Ohio, the cane, (myegia macrosperma of Persoon,) -begins to be seen, and increases in quantity thence westward -to the Mississippi. The "Cave Inn Rock," or "House of Nature," -which we have before mentioned, is an immense cavern penetrating -horizontally into a stratum of compact limestone, which forms -the river bank for some distance above Golconda in Illinois. -Its entrance is a large and regular arch, placed immediately on -the brink of the river, and a similar form is preserved in some -degree through its whole extent. The Battery Rock is a high mural -precipice of the same stratum, running in a straight line, and -forming the northern bank of the river which washes its base. The -face of this precipice is smooth and naked, and it is surmounted -{40} by a heavy growth of timber. This limestone is compact, -entirely horizontal in its position, and filled with organic -remains. It is traversed by veins containing sulphuret of lead; -and at several places near Golconda, this is accompanied by fluat -of lime, in beautiful yellow and violet-coloured crystals. Fluat -of lime is also found disseminated in small and irregular masses -throughout the rock. At Golconda, six miles below the cave, a -coarse gray flinty sandstone is found, extending some distance to -the west. This rock forms broad hills on the Kentucky side, between -the Cumberland and Tennessee rivers; where it abounds in iron ore -of several kinds. Perhaps these hills ought to be considered as -a spur from the Cumberland hills. At the mouth of the Tennessee -river, is a locality of the columnar argillaceous oxide of iron, -which rises from the surface in pyramidal and columnar masses, -somewhat resembling the cypress knees. - -An extensive tract of land between the Tennessee and Mississippi -rivers, included in the recent purchase from the Cherokees,[056] is -rocky and broken, abounding in ores of iron and lead, and probably -some other minerals. We have seen a specimen of sulphuret of -antimony, in possession of an inhabitant, who being a sort of -alchymist, greatly delighting in mystery, thought it imprudent to -reveal the secret of its particular locality. It is to be hoped, -future and more minute examinations than we had the opportunity of -making, may hereafter detect valuable mineral depositions in this -tract. - -The confluence of the Ohio and Mississippi, is in latitude 37° 22´ -9´´ north, according to the observations of Mr. Ellicott, and in -longitude 88° 50´ 42´´ west, from Greenwich.[057] The lands about -the junction of these two great rivers are low, consisting of -recent alluvion, and covered with dense forests. At the time of -our journey, the spring floods having subsided in the Ohio, this -quiet and gentle river {41} seemed to be at once swallowed up, and -lost in the rapid and turbulent current of the Mississippi. Floods -of the Mississippi, happening when the Ohio is low, occasion a -reflux of the waters of the latter, perceptible at Fort Massac, -more than thirty miles above. It is also asserted, that the floods -in the Ohio occasion a retardation in the current of the -Mississippi, as far up as the Little Chain, ten miles below Cape -Girardeau.[058] The navigation of the Mississippi above the mouth -of the Ohio, also that of the Ohio, is usually obstructed for a -part of the winter by large masses of floating ice. The boatmen -observe that soon after the ice from the Ohio enters the -Mississippi, it becomes so much heavier by arresting the sands, -always mixed with the waters of that river, that it soon sinks to -the bottom. After ascending the Mississippi about two miles, we -came to an anchor, and went on shore on the eastern side. The -forests here are deep and gloomy, swarming with innumerable -mosquitoes, and the ground overgrown with enormous nettles. There -is no point near the confluence of the Ohio and Mississippi, from -which a distant prospect can be had. Standing in view of the -junction of these magnificent rivers, meeting almost from opposite -extremities of the continent, and each impressed with the peculiar -character of the regions from which it descends, we seem to -imagine ourselves capable of comprehending at one view all that -vast region between the summits of the Alleghanies and of the -Rocky Mountains, and feel a degree of impatience at finding all -our prospects limited by an inconsiderable extent of low muddy -bottom lands, and the unrelieved, unvaried, gloom of the forest. - -Finding it necessary to renew the packing of the piston in the -steam-engine, which operation would require some time, most of the -gentlemen of the {42} party were dispersed on shore in pursuit of -their respective objects, or engaged in hunting. Deer, turkeys, -and beaver are still found in plenty in the low grounds, along -both sides of the Mississippi; but the annoyance of the mosquitoes -and nettles preventing the necessary caution and silence in -approaching the haunts of these animals, our hunting was without -success. - -We were gratified to observe many interesting plants, and among -them several of the beautiful family of the orchidæ,[059] -particularly the orchis spectabile, so common in the mountainous -parts of New England. - -The progress of our boat against the heavy current of the -Mississippi, was of necessity somewhat slow. Steam-boats in -ascending are kept as near the shore as the depth of water will -admit; and ours often approached so closely as to give such of the -party as wished, an opportunity to jump on shore. On the first of -June, several gentlemen of the party went on shore, six miles -below the settlement of Tyawapatia bottom, and walked up to that -place through the woods. They passed several Indian encampments, -which appeared to have been recently tenanted. Under one of the -wigwams they saw pieces of honey-comb, and several sharpened -sticks, that had been used to roast meat upon: on a small tree -near by was suspended the lower jaw-bone of a bear. Soon after -leaving these they came to another similar camp, where they found -a Shawanee Indian and his squaw, with four children, the youngest -lashed to a piece of board, and leaned against a tree. - -The Indian had recently killed a deer, which they purchased of him -for one dollar and fifty cents--one-third more than is usually -paid to white hunters. They afterwards met with another -encampment, where were several families. These Indians have very -little acquaintance with the English language, and appeared -reluctant to use the few words they {43} knew. The squaws wore -great numbers of trinkets, such as silver arm-bands and large -earrings. Some of the boys had pieces of lead tied in various -parts of the hair. They were encamped near the Mississippi, for -the purpose of hunting on the islands. Their village is on Apple -Creek, ten miles from Cape Girardeau. - -June 2d. As it was only ten miles to Cape Girardeau, and the -progress of the boat extremely tedious, several of the party, -taking a small supply of provisions, went on shore, intending to -walk to that place. - -Above the settlement of Tyawapatia, and near Cape à la Bruche,[060] -is a ledge of rocks, stretching across the Mississippi, in a -direct line, and in low water forming a serious obstacle to the -navigation. These rocks are of limestone, and mark the commencement -of the hilly country on the Mississippi. Here the landscape begins -to have something of the charm of distant perspective. We seem -released from the imprisonment of the deep monotonous forest, and -can occasionally overlook the broad hills of Apple Creek, and the -Au Vaise,[061] or Muddy river of Illinois, diversified with a few -scattered plantations, and some small natural meadows. - -About five miles above Cape Girardeau we found the steam-boat -Jefferson, destined for the Missouri. She had been detained some -time waiting for castings which were on board the Western -Engineer. Several other steam-boats, with stores for the troops -about to ascend the Missouri, had entered that river, and were -waiting to be overtaken by the Jefferson and the Calhoun, which -last we had left at the rapids of the Ohio. On the 3d of June we -passed that insular rock in the middle of the Mississippi, called -the Grand Tower.[062] It is about one hundred and fifty feet high, -and two hundred and fifty in diameter. Between it and the right -shore is a {44} channel of about one hundred and fifty yards in -width, with a deep and rapid current. - -In the summer of 1673, Father Marquette and M. Joliet descended -the Mississippi, probably as far as the mouth of the Arkansa. -Their narrative contains sufficient evidence that they passed the -mouth of the Missouri, the Grand Tower, the mouth of the Ohio, &c. -As their work may not be easily accessible to many of our readers, -we subjoin, in a note, an interesting passage, in which these -objects are mentioned.[063] - -The strata of sandstone containing the extensive beds of coal -which have been explored, about the Muddy river of Illinois, are -here divided transversely by the bed of the Mississippi. The Grand -Tower, the precipice opposite the mouth of the Obrazo,[064] -containing the singular cavity called the Devil's Oven, the -Cornice Rock, and other remarkable cliffs, are monuments -indicating the great extent to which the Mississippi has -channelled its bed in these strata of horizontal sandstone. - -The Grand Tower, from its form and situation, strongly suggests -the idea of a work of art. It is not impossible that a bridge may -be constructed here, for which this rock shall serve as a pier. -The shores, on both sides, are of substantial and permanent rocks, -which undoubtedly extend across, forming the bed of the river. It -is probable, however, that the ledge of rocks called the Two -Chains, extending down to Cape à la Bruche, presents greater -facilities for the construction of a bridge than this point, as -the high lands there approach nearer the river, and are less -broken than in the neighbourhood of the Grand Tower. The Ohio -would also admit of a bridge at the chains, which appear to be a -continuation of the range of rocks here mentioned, crossing that -river fifteen miles above its confluence with the Mississippi. We -look forward to the time when these great works will be completed. - -{45} Compact and sparry limestones are frequent in this region; but -all the rocks seem to be acted upon with great rapidity by currents -of water. The country on the east side of the Mississippi, back -of Fort Chartres, and about the river St. Mary, is much broken by -sink holes, having the form of a funnel, and occasioned, probably, -by the action of subterraneous streams of water finding their way -through the friable sandstones, which underlay the deep and fertile -soils in those places. We passed in succession the mouths of the -river St. Mary, opposite to which is the fine settlement of the -Bois Broule bottoms; the Ocoa, or Kaskaskia river; the St. Lora, -a handsome stream, from the west; and the Gabaree Creek, on which -stands the old French town of St. Genevieve.[065] The navigation -of the Mississippi, above the mouth of the Ohio, is at all times -difficult. The current is considerably accelerated by the descent -of the river over the rocky traverses which cross its bed. At times -of low water, innumerable sand-bars occur in various parts of the -channel, rendering the navigation extremely precarious. - -A little below the mouth of the Kaskaskia, is a creek called the -Saline, entering on the west side. A grant of a tract of land, one -league square, was here made by the Spanish government, in favour -of a Frenchman named Pegreau, the founder of the deserted town -called New Bourbon.[066] The tract included a valuable brine -spring, near the mouth of the creek. The proprietor built a house -near the bank of the Mississippi, where he resided for some time, -and carried on a manufacture of salt; but having occasion to go to -France, he rented his works to a man, who for want of funds, or -for some other reason, failed to keep them in operation. After the -transfer of Louisiana to the United States' Government, this -grant, among others, became an object of speculation; and -advantage being taken of Pegreau's absence, the worthless tenant -was instigated {46} to prosecute his landlord for breach of -contract, and by a legal process recovered damages to the amount -of nine thousand dollars, for the disbursement of which the -property was sold, and fell into the hands of the present -proprietors. - -At the mouth of the Kaskaskia river, on the east bank of the -Mississippi, a town has been recently commenced, called Portland. -The high lands approach here to the brink of the river, affording -an elevated and advantageous site. The landing is said to be good; -and there is reason to expect that Portland will soon rival the -old town of Kaskaskia, the present seat of a great portion of the -mercantile business in this part of Illinois.[067] - -On the 5th the wind blew from the south-east, and with the aid of -sails, we were enabled to ascend the river with considerable -rapidity. As we were proceeding briskly forward, our boat struck -upon one of those concealed trunks of trees so frequent in the -Mississippi, and soon afterwards we discovered that a leak had -occurred, which made it necessary for us to lie by. By the -constant use of the pumps during the remainder of the day, and the -following night, we were able to prevent the water from gaining -further upon us; and the next day, having discovered the leak, we -raised the stern of the boat, by means of a pair of shears, and -succeeded in repairing the injury. - -On the beach, opposite the place where we lay by for these -repairs, was a large flock of pelicans, which remained in sight -for several hours. We had met with some wild geese; and a swan, -which we saw was unable to fly, having at that time cast its -feathers. The yellow-breasted chat, chuck-wills-widow, the falco -haliatus, the kingfisher, bank swallow, and numerous other birds, -occurred. - -At the mouth of the Kaskaskia river, on the east side of the -Mississippi, commences the celebrated valley called the American -Bottom, extending along {47} the eastern bank of the river last -mentioned to the Piasa hills, four miles above the mouth of the -Missouri. It is several miles in width, and has a soil of -astonishing fertility, consisting of comparatively recent -depositions from the river. It has all the disadvantages usually -attending tracts of recent river alluvion, the most valuable parts -of it being liable to be swept away by the current of the -Mississippi, and its surface descending from the brink of the -river to the stagnant pools and lagoons, at the outskirts of the -valley. But the inexhaustible fertility of its soil makes amends -for the insalubrity of the air, and the inconveniences of a flat -and marshy situation; and this valley is undoubtedly destined to -become one of the most populous parts of America. We were formerly -shown here a field that had been cultivated, without manure, one -hundred years in succession, and which, when we saw it (in August, -1819) was covered with a very luxuriant growth of corn. - -The town of Kaskaskia, the villages of Prairie de Roches, Kahokia, -Prairie du Pont, Harrisonville, and Fort Chartres, are situate in -this tract. Some of them are in a flourishing condition. Fort -Chartres, which was built by the French government, at the expense -of one million and a half of dollars, stood near the bank of the -river, about twenty miles from Kaskaskia. Not long after they were -erected, a part of the works were undermined by the washing of the -river; since which time the whole has been suffered to remain in -ruins, which are now one-fourth of a mile distant from the -river.[068] - -The country west of the Mississippi, opposite the American Bottom, -is of a very different character. The high lands approach the -river, presenting abrupt declivities, prominent points, and in -many places perpendicular precipices from one to two hundred {48} -feet high, frowning over the brink of the river. One of the most -remarkable of these is known by the name of the Cornice Rock. It -bounds a narrow arm of the river, which has generally sufficient -water to admit the passage of boats. The rock extends nearly in a -straight line, having a front of about four hundred yards, the -brow of the precipice at some points impending over the channel -through which boats pass. The rock rises above, to the height of -fifty or sixty feet, smoothly rounded by the attrition of the -water, which never rising to the upper part of the precipice, -leaves that to project in the form of a cornice. Though the lands -on the west side of the Mississippi are less fertile than those of -the American Bottom, they are of great value, and have long been -objects of scandalous speculation. - -Among a variety of stratagems, practised in this part of the -country to obtain titles to lands, was one which will be best -explained by the following anecdote, related to us by a -respectable citizen of St. Genevieve. Preparatory to taking -possession of Louisiana in 1805, the legislature passed a law, -authorising a claim to one section of land, in favour of any -person who should have actually made _improvements_, in any part -of the same, previous to the year 1804. Commissioners were -appointed to settle all claims of this description; more commonly -known by the name of improvement rights. A person, somewhere in -the county of Cape Girardeau, being desirous of establishing a -claim of this kind to a tract of land, adopted the following -method:--The time having expired for the establishment of a right, -agreeably to the spirit of the law, he took with him two witnesses -to the favourite spot, on which he wished to establish his claim, -and in their presence marked two trees, standing on opposite sides -of a spring; one with the figures 1803, the other 1804, and placed -a stalk of growing corn in the spring. He then brought the -witnesses before the commissioners, who upon their {49} -declaration, that they had seen corn growing at the place -specified, in the spring between 1803 and 1804, admitted the claim -of the applicant, and gave him a title to the land. In the old -district of Cape Girardeau, as in other parts of Louisiana, the -difficulty of establishing indisputable titles to the lands, -arising out of the great number of Spanish grants, pre-emption, -and improvement claims, has greatly retarded the settlement of the -country.[069] Establishments were made here more than one hundred -and fifty years since; yet the features of the country are little -changed, retaining the rudeness and gloominess of the original -forest.[070] - -At five o'clock, on the afternoon of the sixth, we passed the -Platteen rock, a perpendicular precipice, not unlike the Cornice -rock, near the mouth of a creek of the same name. Along the base -of this cliff, we found the water three and sometimes four fathoms -deep. In the evening we arrived at Herculaneum, a small village on -the west side of the Mississippi, depending principally upon the -lead mines for its business.[071] - -Here are three shot manufactories, all of them built at the -summits of perpendicular precipices; by which means, the expense -of erecting high towers has been avoided. Thirty or forty miles to -the south-west of Herculaneum, commences the region of the lead -mines, which, though not yet satisfactorily explored, is known to -extend for many miles through the hilly country, at the sources of -the Merameg, the St. Francis, and the other small rivers, rising -in the angle between the Mississippi and Missouri, below the mouth -of the latter river. - -Soon after the cession of Louisiana to the United States, -particular care was taken to have all claims to land investigated -and registered. Some few {50} may have been omitted, which may be -hereafter revived, but these cannot be numerous. In all the recent -sales of public lands in the western states and territories, -liberal reservations have been made for the encouragement of -learning. We subjoin some particulars, extracted from a -communication of the commissioner of public lands. From this -statement, it will be easy to form an idea of the liberal -provision made by government, for the future support of schools -and colleges. It is probable, similar grants will be made to the -Eastern States.[072] - -On the 7th, after taking in wood at Herculaneum, we moved up the -river; but had scarcely passed the mouth of the Merameg,[073] when -we found ourselves unable to stem the heavy current of the -Mississippi, on account of the great quantities of mud that had -accumulated in the boilers, and prevented our raising the -requisite pressure of steam. While we were lying at anchor, to -afford the steam engineer an opportunity to clean the boilers, -some gentlemen of the party returned along shore to the Merameg, a -beautiful river, whose limpid and transparent waters present a -striking contrast to the yellow and turbid Mississippi. They were -fortunate in meeting with many interesting objects, and, among -others, an undescribed mus, which has received, from Mr. Ord, the -name of floridanus.[074] Upon the specimen, which was a male, was -a dilated, glabrous, ventral line, 2-1/4 inches long. This species -is well known in some districts, under the name of large -hairy-tailed rat, and is by no means rare in Florida. It is as -large as the ordinary stature of the Norway rat, and is equally -troublesome. The contents of its stomach were entirely vegetable, -consisting of the green bark of trees, and the young shoots of -plants. Their nests are large, and are composed of a great -quantity of brush. Dr. Baldwin had rarely been able to join in the -excursions on shore. Plants were, however, collected and brought -to him on board the boat, {51} where he spent much of his time in -the examination of such as were interesting or new.[075] - -A few rods above our anchoring ground, were two graves, supposed -to be those of Indians. One of them was quite recent, and both -were covered with heaps of loose stones, probably designed as -monuments, and to protect the graves from the ravages of wolves or -other animals. The eighth of June brought us to the small village -of Vide Poche,[076] and the following day to St. Louis, where our -arrival was noticed by a salute from a six-pounder on the bank of -the river, and the discharge of ordnance on board several of the -steam-boats lying in front of the town. - - -FOOTNOTES: - - [043] Observations were made, at Shippingsport, to ascertain the - rate of going of our chronometer, the latitude of the place, and - for other purposes; according to these, the Falls are in 38° 15´ - 23´´ N.--JAMES. - - _Comment by Ed._ The latitude is 38° 15´ 8´´. - - - [044] Page 108.--JAMES. - - _Comment by Ed._ Miguel Venegas, a native of Mexico, was born - in 1680, joined the Jesuit order in 1700, and after several - years' service as professor of Latin, rhetoric, and theology, - went out as a missionary to the Indians. His chief work was, - _Noticia de la California y su Conquista temporal y espiritual - hasta el tiempo presente_ (Madrid, 3 vols., 1757). Its - importance as a contemporary account of the native tribes and - mission stations of California is attested by the fact that - translations were promptly made into English, French, and - Dutch. The English edition is entitled _Natural and Civil - History of California_ (London, 2 vols., 1759). - - - [045] For historical importance of the Wabash River and origin - of the name, see Croghan's _Journals_, in our volume i, note - 107; for sketch of the site of Shawneetown, see _ibid._, note - 108.--ED. - - - [046] Testudo geographica of Leseuer.--JAMES. - - - [047] Usually called Cave-in-Rock. For additional facts relative - to its history, see Cuming's _Tour_, in our volume iv, note - 180.--ED. - - - [048] _Nitrate of Potash._--This salt occurs in most of the - caves in the western states and territories. It is found in - efflorescences and incrustations frequently combined with - nitrate of lime. Its colour is grayish or yellowish white. The - manufacture of nitre, in the numerous caves in Kentucky, is - conducted as follows: The earths containing the nitrates of lime - and potash are lixiviated; the lixivium is afterwards passed - through the ashes of wood, by the alkali of which the nitrate of - lime is decomposed. If the earths, after having been lixiviated, - are replaced in the caves, they again become impregnated with - the same salts. - - One bushel of earth commonly yields from one to four pounds of - nitre. The process by which nature supplies the consumption of - this important article has not yet been discovered. - - _Muriate of Soda._--In the United States, common salt has been - usually found in solution combined with the sulphates of lime, - magnesia, and soda, and with sulphuretted hydrogen gas. The - springs yielding the greatest quantity of salt, are those of - the Kenhawa, and Little Sandy rivers, the United States' - Salines near Shawaneetown, Illinois, Boon's Saline, near - Franklin, Missouri, and Lockhart's on the Le Mine river. - - The Kenhawa salt-works supply about thirty thousand bushels of - salt per annum. The rocks about these springs belong to the - secondary formation, and are limestone, variegated sandstone, - and bituminous shale: we were informed that two hundred and - fifty gallons of this water yield one bushel of salt. At - the Salines of the Little Sandy, ten thousand bushels are - manufactured yearly. The waters, like those of the Kenhawa, - hold in solution muriate and sulphate of soda, sulphate of - lime, and probably a small portion of sulphate of magnesia. - Limestone and sandstone are the only rocks to be met with in the - neighbourhood. The United States' salines, near Shawaneetown, - produce at present about a hundred and thirty thousand bushels - of salt per annum; they formerly yielded more than two hundred - thousand in the same time. There are now seven furnaces in - operation: the water is procured from three wells, two of which - are rented by Major I. Taylor. At these works the salt water - formerly issued from the earth at the surface. A well of sixteen - feet deep brought the workmen to a spring, which now discharges - sixteen gallons of water per minute. Two hundred and fifty - gallons yield fifty pounds of salt. About one thousand yards - to the east of this well is a basin, or hollow, one hundred - and thirty-five feet in diameter. The soil in and about it is - intimately blended with fragments of earthen ware. - - In the middle of this basin a well has been sunk, which - affords a more concentrated brine than that before mentioned; - one hundred and ten gallons yielding fifty pounds of salt. - - In digging this well, the first fourteen feet was through a - light earth mixed with ashes and fragments of earthen ware: - the remaining fourteen through a bed of clay, deeply coloured - with oxyde of iron, and containing fragments of pottery. The - clay has something the appearance of having been subjected to - the action of fire. At the eastern side of the basin appears - to have been a drain for the purpose of conveying away the - superabundant water. In this drain, about four feet below the - surface of the earth, is a layer of charcoal about six inches - deep. The stones in the vicinity appear as if they had been - burnt. Four miles west of this point, a well has been sunk - sixty feet through the following beds. - - First---- twenty feet of tenacious blue clay, at the bottom of - which they came to a small spring of salt water. - - Second---- another bed of clay, of a similar character, - twenty-five feet thick. - - Third---- a bed of quicksand, about ten feet deep; in which - they met with a large vein of salt water. - - Bones of the mammoth, and other animals, were found both in - the clay and sand. The original reservation at these salines - comprised ninety-two thousand one hundred and sixty acres of - woodland, and was transferred from the United States to the - state of Illinois, at the time of the admission of the latter - into the union. The rents amount to ten thousand dollars per - annum. - - _Nitrate of Lime_ is found in the calcareous caverns of - Kentucky, accompanying nitrate of potash, with which it is - intimately blended in the earth, on the floors of the caves: - it is also sometimes found in delicate accicular crystals, - shooting up from the walls and floors of the caverns.--JAMES. - - - [049] Smithland is now the seat of Livingston County. The - deserted settlement three miles below the mouth of Cumberland - River was laid out about 1800 by one Coxe; upon the failure of - his plans, the site was converted into a farm.--ED. - - - [050] See Cuming's _Tour_, in our volume iv, note 43.--ED. - - - [051] The correct name of this stream is Cache River. The French - explorers applied the term "cache" (hiding-place) to many - streams, probably because of articles hidden there by them. This - particular stream is about thirty miles long, being navigable - for small boats about a third of the distance. - - The town of America was laid off in 1818, with the expectation - that it would attain considerable size. For two or three years - it grew rapidly; then low water uncovered a long bar which - excluded steamers from the landing, whereupon the town declined - and practically disappeared, the site now being occupied by but - one or two small dwellings.--ED. - - - [052] For a description of the Iron Banks, see Nuttall's - _Journal_, in our volume xiii, note 54.--ED. - - - [053] Although the range from extreme high to extreme low water - amounts to sixty feet perpendicular, in many parts of the Ohio, - it does not exceed twenty feet at this place, owing to the width - to which the Ohio spreads in this neighbourhood, when the river - is high. This may be considered a circumstance much in favour - of the place, when compared with the disadvantages most other - positions on the Ohio labour under, from inundation in high - water, and the difficulty of unlading in low.--JAMES. - - - [054] Rockport is the seat of Spencer County, Indiana, one - hundred and forty miles below Louisville, measured on the - river's course.--ED. - - - [055] Green River enters the Ohio from the Kentucky side, - thirty-five miles below Rockport.--ED. - - - [056] On Cherokee purchase, see Cuming's _Tour_, in volume iv, - this series, note 190.--ED. - - - [057] Latitude 36° 59´ 47.99´´; longitude, 89° 9´ 31.2´´.--ED. - - - [058] Schultz's Travels, vol. 2. p. 92.--JAMES. - - - [059] The cymbidium hiemale of Willdenow, which has been placed - by Mr. Nuttall under the genus corallorhiza of Haller, occurs in - the fertile soils of the Mississippi, with two radical leaves, - as described by the early authors. Mr. N.'s amended description - is therefore only applicable to the plant as it occurs in the - eastern states, where it is commonly found to have but a single - leaf.--JAMES. - - - [060] Tyawapatia (Tywappity, Tiwappaty) Bottom was the - name formerly applied to the flood plain on the Missouri side, - in the present Scott County. It extended from the mouth of the - Ohio to Commerce, near the site of which was the settlement - referred to. Americans began to enter the bottom as early as - 1798, and in 1823 the town of Commerce was laid out on the - site of a trading post already twenty years old. - - The name Cape à la Bruche is probably a corruption of Cape à - la Broche (spit-like). The point was also called Cape La Croix - (The Cross), which name alone survives. It is about six miles - below Cape Girardeau, on the same side of the river.--ED. - - - [061] The name Au Vaise is a corruption of Rivière au - Vase (Muddy River); the present name is Big Muddy. It enters - the Mississippi from the northeast, at the northwest corner of - Union County, Illinois, and boats ascend forty or fifty - miles.--ED. - - - [062] Opposite the town of the same name, in Jackson County, - Illinois.--ED. - - - [063] They left the Illinois about the middle of June. Of - the rocky cliffs below the confluence of that river, Father - Marquette speaks as follows: "Among the rocks I have mentioned, - we found one very high and steep, and saw two monsters painted - upon it, which are so hideous that we were frightened at first - sight, and the boldest savages dare not fix their eyes upon - them. They are drawn as big as a calf, with two horns like a - wild-goat. Their looks are terrible, though their face has - something of human figure in it. Their eyes are red, their - beard is like that of a tiger, and their body is covered with - scales. Their tail is so long that it goes over their heads, - and then turns between their fore-legs under the belly, ending - like a fish-tail. There are but three colours, viz. red, - green, and black; but those monsters are so well drawn that I - cannot believe the savages did it; and the rock whereon they - are painted is so steep that it is a wonder to me how it was - possible to draw those figures: but to know to what purpose - they were made is as great a mystery. Whatever it be, our best - painters would hardly do better. - - "As we fell down the river, following the gentle stream of the - waters, and discoursing upon those monsters, we heard a great - noise of waters, and saw several small pieces of timber, and - small floating islands, which were huddled down the river - _Pekitanoni_. The waters of this stream (the Missouri) are so - muddy, because of the violence of its stream, that it is - impossible to drink of it; and they spoil the clearness of the - Mississippi, and make its navigation very dangerous in this - place. This river runs from the north-west; and I hope to - discover, in following its channel to its source, some other - river that discharges itself into the _Mar Marvejo_, or the - _Caliphornian Gulf_. - - "About twenty leagues lower than the Pekitanoni, we met another - river, called the Ouabouskigon; but before we arrived there, - we passed through a most formidable place to the savages, who - believe that a _manito_ or devil resides in that place, to - deliver such as are so bold as to come near it. This terrible - _manito_ proves to be nothing but some rocks in a turning of - the river, about thirty feet high, against which the stream - runs with great violence." This is probably the Grand Tower. - "The river _Ouabouskigon_ (Ohio) comes from the eastward. The - _Chuoanous_ (Shawneese) inhabit its banks; and are so numerous, - that I have been informed there are thirty-eight villages of - that nation situated on this river."--JAMES. - - _Comment by Ed._ James dates the start too early, for by - Marquette's account, it was near the end of June ("sur la fin - de Juin"); nor is James's version quite accurate. Compare the - French of Marquette's account in _Jesuit Relations_, lix, p. 138. - - - [064] Spelled also Brazos and Brazeau--a Perry County (Missouri) - tributary of the Mississippi.--ED. - - - [065] The Bois Broulé (Burnt Wood) Bottoms lie chiefly in Perry - County, Missouri. The tract is about eighteen miles long and - from four to six wide. - - For Kaskaskia River and settlement, see André Michaux's - _Travels_, in our volume iii, note 132. - - For Ste. Geneviève, see Cuming's _Tour_, in our volume iv, note - 174.--ED. - - - [066] Among the nobles who fled from France during the - Revolution was the father of Charles Dehault Delassus, last - governor of Upper Louisiana under Spanish domination. The - elder Delassus came to Ste. Geneviève, and was placed in - command of a post established for him on a bluff overlooking - the river, two or three miles below the town; this post was - named New Bourbon (La Nouvelle Bourbon), in honor of the - fallen French dynasty. The town which grew up around it was - still in existence in 1812.--ED. - - - [067] Portland was one of many towns laid out along the - Mississippi by speculators who hoped that important cities - would arise on the sites chosen. This particular venture was - undertaken by a company organized in Cincinnati in 1819; but - inhabitants failed to come, and the buildings erected by the - promoters fell into ruins. The site was near the present town - of Chester; an Illinois state penitentiary now stands on the - spot.--ED. - - - [068] It is stated by Mr. Schultz that Fort Chartres, which - was originally built one-fourth of a mile from the river, was - undermined in 1808. Vol. 2, p. 37.--JAMES. - - _Comment by Ed._ For Kaskaskia, Prairie du Rocher, Cahokia, and - Fort Chartres, see André Michaux's _Travels_, in our volume iii, - notes 132, 133, 135, 136. - - Prairie du Pont, one mile south of Cahokia, grew up about - a water-mill built in 1754 on a creek of that name, by - missionaries of St. Sulpice. - - Harrisonville dates from the era of American domination. It - was laid out in 1808, and named for William Henry Harrison, - the governor of Indiana Territory, which then included - Illinois. It was, in early days, the county town. - - - [069] Ample information on the subject of land titles, - is contained in Stoddart's Sketches of Louisiana, pages - 243-267.--JAMES. - - - [070] The statement here is not accurate. Marquette's - descent of the Mississippi was just one hundred and fifty - years earlier, and the French settlements in Illinois date - from the beginning of the eighteenth century; while Ste. - Geneviève, the first in Missouri, was not established before - 1732.--ED. - - - [071] Herculaneum, laid out in 1808, was another of the now - extinct river towns. It was thirty miles below St. Louis, and - was at one time seat of Jefferson County.--ED. - - - [072] A _township_ is a square, whose sides (limited by true - meridians and parallels to the equator) are each 6 miles in - length: area 36 square miles, or _sections_, each containing 640 - acres. Each township contains 23,040 acres. A _quarter-section_ - is a square whose sides (bounded by meridians and parallels), - are each half a mile, and contain 160 acres. The corners of - each section are distinctly marked by the United States' - deputy-surveyors. The _sections_ are numbered from 1 to 36, - beginning at the N. E. corner of the township, and going from - right to left, to the N. W. corner; and then returning from left - to right to the east boundary of the township, and so on. - - The act of February 22. 1817, authorizes the sale, in _half - quarter_ sections, or (80 acres) of the sections 2, 5, 20, 23, - 30, 33, of each township. The subdivision of the quarter - section is made by true meridians. - - The _section_ No. 16. in every township, is by law reserved - for the support of schools; the S. E. corner of that section - is the centre of each township. More than 60 million acres of - United States' land, have already been surveyed:--1/36 of 60 - millions is 1,666,666 acres, reserved by law for the support - of schools. The section No. 16. will unquestionably be - reserved in all future surveys and disposals of public lands. - - For colleges and seminaries of a higher grade, thirteen whole - townships have already been granted by the United States to - Michigan, Ohio, Indiana, &c. Thirteen townships are equal to - 299,520 acres. - - By section 2. of the act of April 18. 1806, relative to - Tennessee, 200,000 acres are in that state reserved for - colleges and academies. - - The reservations for schools, colleges, &c. are-- - - Section No. 16. 1,666,666 - Thirteen townships 299,520 - Reservation in Tennessee 200,000 - --------- - 2,166,186 acres; - - which, at the minimum price established previous to the year - 1820, of two dollars per acre, is $4,332,372. - - The area of the whole state of Ohio (the eldest of the states - north of the Ohio) is about 25 millions of acres; of this - about 14,400 had been surveyed anterior to the late cessions, - which embrace the N. W. part of that state: 1/36 of 14,400,000 - is 400,000. - - The free spirit of Ohio, united with signal industry and - economy, has already given to section 16. in the surveyed - portion of the state, a value of at least four dollars per - acre, or of 1,600,000 dollars. There are instances, in which - section 16. in Ohio, is worth from twenty to thirty dollars per - acre.--_National Intelligencer of November 10. 1819._--JAMES. - - - [073] The Meramec River (the name is a corruption of an Indian - word meaning "Catfish") forms part of the boundary between - Jefferson and St. Louis counties, Missouri. It flows from the - southwest, its chief sources lying in Dent County, and is - navigable for steamboats for almost a hundred miles.--ED. - - - [074] _Genus Mus. L.--M. Floridanus, Ord, Say._ _Body_ robust; - _back_ plumbeous; sides, sacrum, and origin of the tail, - ferrugineous-yellowish; _fur_ plumbeous near its base; all - beneath white; _tail_ hairy, above brown, as long as the body; - _head_ plumbeous, intermixed with gray, gradually attenuated to - the nose; _ears_ large, prominent, patulous, obtusely rounded, - naked or furnished with obsolete sparse hairs behind, and on the - margin within; _eyes_ moderately prominent; _whiskers_, some - black, and some white bristles, elongated, longest surpassing - the tips of the ears, arranged in six longitudinal series, - superior labia, and those of the angles of the mouth, folded - into the mouth, and hairy within; _legs_ subequal, robust; - anterior legs with a few white projecting setæ near the foot - behind; _feet_ white; _toes_ annulate beneath, with impressed - lines, intermediate ones equal, exterior ones equal; shorter - thumb minute; _palm_ with five tuberculous prominences, of - which the anterior ones are placed triangularly, and the others - transversely; _nails_ concealed by the hairs; _posterior feet_, - inner toe shortest, 2d, 3d, and 4th subequal, the third slightly - longest, all beneath annulated; _nails_ concealed by the hairs; - _palm_ with six tubercles, of which the three posterior ones - are distant from each other. Entire length, from nose to tip of - tail, sixteen inches nearly; _tail_ seven inches, _ear_ rather - more than 9/10 of an inch long, greatest breadth one inch. From - tip of nose to anterior canthus of the eye, 1/20 inches. Length - of the eye nearly 2/5.--JAMES. - - _Comment by Ed._ George Ord, a Philadelphia scientist and - writer, was known especially for his work in ornithology. He - was at one time a vice president of the American Philosophical - Society, and from 1851-58 was president of the Academy of - Natural Sciences at Philadelphia. - - - [075] Near the mouth of the Merameg were collected the - Rudbeckia _hirta_, and R. purpurea, a small white flowering - species of Houstonia, the Galium tinctorium Smyrnium aureum, a - phlox, a new species of potentilla, a conyza, the trifolium - reflexum, a beautiful aira, the campunula perfoliata, - diospyros virginiana, rhus glabra, and many others. _Dr. - Baldwin's MS. Notes._--JAMES. - - - [076] Vide Poche (Empty Pocket), more properly Carondelet, now - included in St. Louis, was at this time five miles south of the - original city. It is of about the same age.--ED. - - - - -{52} CHAPTER III - - Tumuli and Indian Graves about St. Louis, and on the Merameg-- - Mouth of the Missouri--Charboniere--Journey by land from St. - Charles, to Loutre Island. - - -Saint Louis, formerly called Pain Court,[077] was founded by Pierre -La Clade [Laclède] and his associates in 1764, eighty-four years -after the establishment of Fort Creve-coeur, on the Illinois river. -Until a recent period, it was occupied almost exclusively by people -of French extraction, who maintained a lucrative traffic with the -Indians. The history, and present condition of this important town, -are too well known to be dwelt upon in this place. Its population -has been rapidly augmented within a few years, by the immigration -of numerous families, and its wealth and business extended by the -accession of enterprising merchants and mechanics from the Eastern -States. As the town advances in importance and magnitude, the -manners and customs of the people of the United States, are taking -the place of those of the French and Spaniards, whose numbers are -proportionably diminishing. As this place seems destined to be the -depôt for such articles of merchandize, as are to be sent from -New Orleans to the upper rivers, it is unfortunate, that no good -harbour offers for the protection of boats against the impetuosity -of the current, and from the danger occasioned by floating ice. -In this respect, the site of a projected town, a few miles below, -has a decided advantage over Saint Louis, as it possesses a good -harbour. It was selected many years since, by some Canadian -Frenchmen, who formed a settlement there.[078] - -The horizontal strata of limestone which underlay the town of -Saint Louis and the surrounding country, {53} have strongly -attracted the attention of the curious, on account of having been -found, in one or two instances, to contain distinct impressions of -the human foot. There is now in the possession of Mr. Rapp,[079] of -the Society of the Harmonites, a stone, which has upon its surface -marks that appear to have been formed by the naked feet of some -human being, who was standing upon it while in a plastic state; -also an irregular line, apparently traced by a stick or wand, -held in the hand of the same person. This stone was taken from the -slope of the immediate bank of the Mississippi below the range of -the periodical floods. To us there seems nothing inexplicable or -difficult to understand in its appearance. - -Nothing is more probable, than that impressions of human feet made -upon that thin stratum of mud, which was deposited on the shelvings -of the rocks, and left naked by the retiring of the waters, may, -by the induration of the mud, have been preserved, and at length -have acquired the appearance of an impression made immediately -upon the limestone. This supposition will be somewhat confirmed, -if we examine the mud and slime deposited by the water of the -Mississippi, which will be found to consist of such an intimate -mixture of clay and lime, as under favourable circumstances would -very readily become indurated. We are not confident that the -impressions above mentioned have originated in the manner here -supposed, but we cannot by any means adopt the opinion of some, who -have considered them as contemporaneous to those casts of submarine -animals, which occupy so great a part of the body of the limestone. -We have no hesitation in saying, that whatever those impressions -maybe, if they were produced, as they appear to have been by the -agency of human feet, they belong to a period far more recent, than -that of the deposition of the limestone on whose surface they are -found. - -The country about St. Louis, like that in the rear {54} of Fort -Chartres, and indeed like the horizontal limestone country -generally, abounds in sink holes sometimes of great depth. These -are very numerous, from five to seven miles back of the town. -They are in the form of vast funnels, having at the surface a -diameter of from twenty to fifty yards. Mr. Say descended into one -of these, for the purpose of ascertaining the medium temperature -below the surface of the earth. This sink opens at the bottom of a -deep ravine. It has two apertures near each other, through which -water is admitted, and each large enough to afford passage to the -body of a man. Within are two chambers from six to twelve feet in -breadth, and thirty-five feet long. At the bottom of the second -chamber is a pool of water rather difficult of access. In this -apartment the mercury stood at 60° fah.: in a shady part of the -ravine about twenty-five feet below the general surface at 75°. -The grassy plains to the west of St. Louis are ornamented with -many beautifully flowering herbaceous plants. Among those -collected there, Dr. Baldwin observed the aristolochia Sipho, -cypripedium spectabile,[080] lilium catesbeiana, bartsia coccinea, -triosteum perfoliatum, cistus canadensis, clematis viorna, and the -tradescantia virginica. The borders of this plain begin to be -overrun with a humble growth of black jack and the witch -hazel,[081] it abounds in rivulets, and some excellent springs of -water, near one of which was found a new and beautiful species of -viburnum. On the western borders of this prairie are some fine -farms. It is here that Mr. John Bradbury,[082] so long and so -advantageously known as a botanist, and by his travels into the -interior of America, is preparing to erect his habitation. This -amiable gentleman lost no opportunity during our stay at St. Louis -to make our residence there agreeable to us. Near the site -selected for his house is a mineral spring, whose {55} waters are -strongly impregnated with sulphuretted hydrogen gas. Cattle and -horses, which range here throughout the season, prefer the waters -of this spring to those of the creek in whose bed it rises, and -may be seen daily coming in great numbers, from distant parts of -the prairie, to drink of it. - -Tumuli, and other remains of the labours of nations of Indians -that inhabited this region many ages since, are remarkably -numerous about St. Louis. Those tumuli immediately northward of -the town, and within a short distance of it, are twenty-seven in -number, of various forms and magnitudes, arranged nearly in a line -from north to south. The common form is an oblong square, and they -all stand on the second bank of the river. The statement given -below of their forms, magnitudes, and relative positions, is the -result of actual admeasurement taken with care, and with as much -accuracy as their present indefinite boundaries, together with the -dense growth of underwood, covering their surface, and tending to -beguile and obstruct the vision of the observer, will admit. - -It seems probable these piles of earth were raised as cemeteries, -or they may have supported altars for religious ceremonies. We -cannot conceive any useful purpose to which they can have been -applicable in war, unless as elevated stations from which to -observe the motions of an approaching enemy; but for this purpose -a single mound would have been sufficient, and the place chosen -would probably have been different. - -Nothing like a ditch, or an embankment, is to be seen about any -part of these works.[083] - -Indian graves are extremely numerous about St. Louis, though none -are found in the immediate vicinity of the town: they are most -frequent on the hills about the Merameg and on the north side of -the Missouri. On the 12th June, Mr. Say and Mr. Peale, accompanied -by one man, descended the Mississippi,{56} in a small boat to the -mouth of the Merameg, and ascended the latter river about fifteen -miles, to a place where great numbers of graves have been -explored, and have been represented to contain the bones of a -diminutive race of men. Most of these graves are found near the -bank of the Merameg. They do not rise above the general surface, -but their presence is ascertained by the vertical stones which -enclose them, and project a little at either end of the grave. -When the included earth, and the numerous horizontal flat stones -are removed, we find the sides neatly constructed of long flat -stones, vertically implanted and adapted to each other, edge to -edge, so as to form a continuous wall. The graves are usually -three or four feet, though sometimes six feet in length. The bones -they contained appeared to have been deposited after having been -separated from the flesh, and from each other, according to the -custom of some tribes of Indians at the present day. - -In the first grave opened by Mr. Say were found the fragments of -an earthen pot, and the bones of an infantine skull; the second -contained what appeared to be the remains of a middle aged man, of -the ordinary stature, laid at full length; the bones much -confused and broken. An inhabitant residing here informed them, -that many similar graves had been found along the summits of most -of the neighbouring hills. In one of these he had found two pieces -of earthenware, one having nearly the form of a porter-bottle; the -other with a wide mouth; but this grave contained no bones. After -spending a night at this place, they crossed the river to the town -of Lilliput, (one of the projected towns here has received this -name,) the place so often mentioned as the locality of the graves -of a pigmy race. Appearances here are in general similar to those -already described. One head that had been dug up was that of an -old person, in whom the teeth had been lost, and the alveolæ {57} -obliterated, leaving the sharp edge of the jaw-bone. From this the -neighbouring settlers had inferred the existence of a race of men -without teeth, having their jaws like those of the turtle. Having -satisfied themselves that all the bones found here were those of -men of the common size, Mr. Say and Mr. Peale "sold their skiff, -shouldered their guns, bones, spade, &c. and bent their weary -steps towards St. Louis, (distant sixteen miles,) where they -arrived at eleven o'clock P. M., having had ample time, by the -way, to indulge sundry reflections on that quality of the mind, -either imbibed in the nursery or generated by evil communications, -which incites to the love of the marvellous, and, by hyperbole, -casts the veil of falsehood over the charming features of simple -nature." - -These graves evidently contain the relics of a more modern people -than those who erected the mounds. - -On the summit of one of the large hillocks, near St. Louis, (No. -27. described in note 83) are several of these graves: we opened -five of them, but in one only were we fortunate in finding any -thing interesting, and all that this contained was a solitary -tooth of a species of rat, together with the vertebræ and ribs of -a serpent of moderate size, and in good preservation; but whether -the animal had been buried by the natives, or had perished there, -after having found admittance through some hole, we could not -determine. If they were buried by the Indians, they are probably -the bones of a species of crotalus, as it is known that many -Indians of the present day have a sort of veneration for animals -of that genus. The circumstance of the discovery of these bones -renders it somewhat probable, that rattlesnakes were formerly -worshipped by the natives of America, and their remains, like -those of the Ibis of Egypt, religiously entombed after death. - -Whilst we were at Cincinnati, Dr. Drake exhibited {58} to us, in -his cabinet of natural history, two large marine shells, that had -been dug out of ancient Indian tumuli in that vicinity. These -shells were each cut longitudinally, and the larger half of each -only remained. From this circumstance it seems probable that they -had been used by the aborigines as drinking cups; or, consecrated -to superstition, they may have been regarded as sacred utensils, -and either used in connection with the rites of sacrifice, or in -making libations to their deities; they may, however, like the -cymbium of the Archipelago, have served a more useful and salutary -purpose in bathing. - -One of these specimens seems to be a _Cassis cornutus_, of -authors, or great conch shell, though it is proper to observe, -that of the three revolving bands of tubercles, characteristic of -that species, the inferior one in this specimen is double. In -length it is about nine inches and a quarter, and in breadth seven -inches. - -The other specimen is a heterostrophe shell of the genus _Fulgur_ -of Montfort; and, as far as we can judge, in every respect the -same with those which are, at the present day, found on the coast -of Georgia and East Florida, known to naturalists under the name -of _F. perversus_, though it is certainly much larger than any of -the recent specimens we have seen; its length being nine inches, -and breadth six and a half. - -Several different countries have been mentioned by authors as the -habitation of the _cornutus_; according to Rumphius, it inhabits -Amboyna, the straits of Malacca, and the shores of the island of -Boeton; Humphreys says it is brought from the East Indies and -China; Linnæus believed it to inhabit the coasts of America; but -Bruguiere, a more recent author, informs us that Linnæus was -probably mistaken in the habitation of this shell, and states it -to be a native of the Asiatic ocean. - -The _cornutus_ becomes of some importance in the question relative -to the Asiatic origin of the American {59} Indians. All the -authorities to which we have been able to refer, correspond in -assigning the shores of Asia, or those of the islands which lie -near that continent, as the native territory of this great species -of conch, with the sole exception of Linnæus; but as no other -author has discovered it on the coasts of this continent, we must -believe with Bruguiere, that it is only to be found in the Asiatic -ocean. - -The circumstance then of this shell being discovered in one of the -ancient Indian tumuli, affords, at least, an evidence that an -intercourse formerly existed between the Indians of North America -and those of Asia; and leads us to believe that even a limited -commerce was carried on between them, as it undoubtedly was with -the Atlantic coast, from which the Fulgur was obtained. - -But although this isolated fact does not yield a positive proof of -the long asserted migration of the ancestors of the present race -of American Indians from Asia to this country, yet, when taken in -combination with other evidence, which has been collected by -various authors, with so much industry, it will be regarded as -highly corroborative of that popular belief.[084] - -In the prairies of Illinois, opposite St. Louis, are numbers of -large mounds. We counted seventy-five in the course of a walk of -about five miles, which brought us to the hill a few years since -occupied by the monks of La Trappe.[085] This enormous mound lies -nearly from north to south, but it is so overgrown with bushes and -weeds, interlaced with briers and vines, that we were unable to -obtain an accurate account of its dimensions. - -The survey of these productions of human industry, these monuments -without inscription, commemorating the existence of a people once -numerous and powerful, but no longer known or remembered, never -fails, though often repeated, to produce an impression of sadness. -As we stand upon these {60} mouldering piles, many of them now -nearly obliterated, we cannot but compare their aspect of decay -with the freshness of the wide field of nature, which we see -reviving around us; their insignificance, with the majestic and -imperishable features of the landscape. We feel the insignificance -and the want of permanence in every thing human; we are reminded -of what has been so often said of the pyramids of Egypt, and may -with equal propriety be applied to all the works of men, "these -monuments must perish, but the grass that grows between their -disjointed fragments shall be renewed from year to year."[086] - -June 21st. After completing our arrangements at St. Louis, we left -that place at noon, and at 10 o'clock on the following day, -entered the mouth of the Missouri. From St. Louis upward to the -Missouri, the water of the Mississippi, for a part of the year, is -observed to be clear and of a greenish colour on the Illinois -side, while it is turbid and yellow along the western bank. But at -the time of our ascent every part of the Mississippi appeared -equally turbid, its waters soon becoming blended with the heavy -flood of the Missouri. - -The Missouri being now swollen by the spring floods, which had -subsided in the Mississippi, entered that river with such -impetuosity, as apparently to displace almost the whole body of -the waters in its channel. We had occasion to observe that the -water of the Missouri passes under that of the Mississippi, rising -and becoming mingled with it on the opposite shore, so that a -portion of the clear, green waters of the latter river run for -some distance in the middle of the channel, and along the surface -of the Missouri waters, rendered perhaps specifically heavier by -the great quantities of earthy matter mingled with them. The -waters of the Missouri are so charged with mud and sand as to be -absolutely opake, and of a clay {61} colour; while those of the -Mississippi being comparatively clear, and having a somewhat -olivaceous tint, afford an opportunity of tracing their respective -courses, after their junction in the same channel. At some stages -of water they run side by side, and in a great measure unmingled -as far as Herculaneum, forty-eight miles below their confluence. - -We had the pleasure to find, notwithstanding the furnace was -supplied with wood of an indifferent quality, that the force of -our steam-engine was sufficient to propel the boat against the -current of the Missouri, without recourse to the aid of the -_cordelle_,[087] which we had expected to find necessary. - -We were somewhat surprised to see here a flock of black-headed -terns. It is remarkable that these birds, whose ordinary range is -in the immediate vicinity of the sea-coast, should ascend this -river to so great a distance. They are not seen on the Delaware as -high as Philadelphia, unless driven up by storms. - -In ascending from the mouth of the Missouri to Bellefontain, a -distance of four miles, our boat grounded twice on the point of the -same sand-bar, and considerable time was consumed in efforts to -get her afloat. A military post was established at Bellefontain, -under the direction of the government of the United States, by -General Wilkinson, in 1803; but the soil on which his works were -erected has disappeared, the place being now occupied by the -bed of the river. A few fruit trees only, which stood in the end -of his garden, are yet standing, but are now on the brink of the -river. The first bank is here ten or twelve feet high, rising -perpendicularly from the water. Near its base are the trunks of -several trees with one end imbedded, and the other projecting -horizontally over the surface of the water, affording an evidence -of the recent deposition of the soil of the low plains, and -an admonition of the uncertainty of tenure, on the first bank -of the river. One of these projecting trunks is still in good -preservation. It is {62} about three feet in diameter, and from -its direction, must pass immediately under the roots of two -large trees, now occupying the surface of the soil.[088] Similar -appearances are frequent along the Mississippi and Missouri, and -furnish abundant evidence that these rivers are constantly changing -their bed, and, from the great rapidity of the stream, as well as -from the appearances presented, we must suppose these changes are -not very slowly produced; but their range is confined to the valley -within the second banks, which are here raised about seventy feet. -On this second bank, in the rear of the site of the former works, -the buildings belonging to the present military establishment have -been erected. They were commenced in 1810. The houses are of one -story, constructed of logs, based upon masonry, and united in the -form of a hollow square. At the foot of the second bank rises a -fine spring of water, which has given name to the place. Cold Water -creek, a very small stream not navigable, discharges itself a few -hundred yards above; in times of high water its mouth might afford -harbour to small boats. Before the recent change in the bed of the -Missouri, this creek entered higher up than at present, and then -afforded a good harbour for boats of all sizes. The sixth regiment -were encamped here at the time of our arrival, waiting for the -contractor's steam-boats, three of which we had passed at the mouth -of the river.[089] - -Here we found it necessary to adjust a tube to the boilers of our -steam-engine, in order to form a passage, through which the mud -might be blown out: the method heretofore adopted, of taking off -one end for the purpose of admitting a man to clean them, proving -too tedious when it was found necessary to repeat the operation -daily. The expedient of the tube succeeded to our entire -satisfaction. - -Dr. Baldwin found here a plant, which he considered as forming a -new genus, approaching astragalus; {63} also the new species of -rose, pointed out by Mr. Bradbury, and by him called Rosa -mutabilis. This last is a very beautiful species, rising sometimes -to the height of eight or ten feet. The linden tree[090] attains -great magnitude in the low grounds of the Missouri; its flowers -were now fully expanded. - -In ascending from Bellefontain to Charboniere, where we came to an -anchor, on the evening of the 24th, we were opposed by a very -strong current, and much impeded by sand-bars. On the upper ends -of these sand-bars are many large rafts of drift wood; these are -also frequent along the right hand shore. In several places we -observed portions of the bank in the act of falling or sliding -into the river. By this operation, numerous trees, commonly -cotton-woods and willows, are overturned into the water. - -The forests, on the low grounds immediately in the vicinity of the -Missouri, are remarkably dense; but in many instances, the young -willows and poplars (which are the first and almost the only trees -that spring up on the lands left naked by the river) have not -attained half their ordinary dimensions, before, by another change -in the direction of the current, they are undermined, and -precipitated down, to be borne away by the river. The growth of -the cotton-tree is very rapid, that of the salix angustata, the -most common of the willows found here, is more tardy, as it never -attains to great size. The seeds of both these trees are produced -in the greatest profusion, and ripened early in the summer, and -being furnished by nature with an apparatus to ensure their wide -dissemination, they have extended themselves and taken root in the -fertile lands along all the ramifications of the Mississippi, -prevailing almost to the exclusion of other trees. - -{64} Charboniere[091] is on the right bank of the Missouri. This -name was given it by the boatmen and the earliest settlers, on -account of several narrow beds of coal, which appear a few feet -from the water's edge, at the base of a high cliff of soft -sandstone. The smell of sulphur is very perceptible along the bank -of the river, occasioned doubtless by the decomposition of -pyrites, in the exposed parts of the coal beds. Some small masses -of sulphate of lime also occur, and have probably derived their -origin from the same source. - -At St. Charles we were joined by Maj. O'Fallon, agent for Indian -affairs in Missouri, and his interpreter, Mr. John Dougherty, who -had travelled by land from St. Louis.[092] When Lewis and Clark -ascended the Missouri, the town of St. Charles was said to contain -one hundred houses, the inhabitants deriving their support -principally from the Indian trade. This source having in a great -measure failed, on account of the disappearance of the aborigines, -before the rapid advances of the white population, the town -remained in a somewhat declining condition for several years; but -as the surrounding country was soon occupied by an agricultural -population, a more permanent though less lucrative exchange is -taking the place of the Indian trade. Accordingly within two or -three years, many substantial brick buildings had been added, and -several were now in progress: we could enumerate, however, only -about one hundred houses. There are two brick kilns, a tanyard, -and several stores.[093] - -A mile or two below St. Charles, are many trunks of trees -projecting from the bank, like those mentioned at Bellefontain. In -the face of the banks are usually great numbers of the holes made -by the bank-swallow for its nest, and the birds themselves are -frequently seen. - -At St. Charles, arrangements were made for the purpose of -transporting baggage for such of the gentlemen {65} of the party -as should choose to ascend the Missouri by land, that they might -have the better opportunities for investigating the natural -history of the country. Messrs. Say, Jessup, Peale, and Seymour, -having provided themselves with a horse and pack-saddle, on which -they fastened their blankets, a tent, and some provisions, -accompanied by one man, left St. Charles at 7 o'clock on the -morning of the 26th, intending to keep nearly an equal pace with -the steam-boat, in order to rejoin it as occasion might require. -Dr. Baldwin, still confined by debility and lameness, was -compelled to forego the pleasure of accompanying them. - -The Western Engineer proceeded on her voyage, soon after the -departure of Mr. Say and his detachment. Having grounded several -times in the course of the day, and contending all the way against -a heavy current, she proceeded but a few miles. We passed some -rocky cliffs; but in general the immediate banks of the river -presented the same appearance as below, consisting of a recent -alluvium. After we had anchored at evening, Dr. Baldwin was able -to walk a short distance on shore, but returned much fatigued by -his exertions.[094] - -On the morning of the 27th, after having taken in a small supply -of indifferent fuel, we crossed over to the right-hand side of the -river, and took on board one of the party, who had left the boat -at an early hour, to visit a friend residing a short distance from -the river. At evening we came to anchor half a mile below Point -Labidee,[095] a high bluff, where observations for latitude were -taken. Here we were detained a day making some necessary repairs. - -A fine field of wheat, which appeared to be ripe, extended down to -the brink of the river opposite the spot where we lay. This -belonged to the plantation of a farmer, recently from Virginia. -From him we obtained a plentiful supply of milk, and some bacon -hams. A portion of the bank had lately fallen into {66} the river, -and with it a part of the wheat field, and the dwelling house and -other buildings seemed destined soon to follow. - -The shore here was lined with the common elder, (sambucus -canadensis) in full bloom, and the cleared fields were yellow -with the flowers of the common mullein. This plant, supposed to -have been originally introduced from Europe, follows closely the -footsteps of the whites. The liatris pycnostachia, here called -"pine of the prairies," which was now in full bloom, has a -roundish tuberous root, of a warm somewhat balsamic taste, and is -used by the Indians and others for the cure of gonnorrhoea. - -The Indian interpreter, Mr. Dougherty, also showed us some -branches of a shrub, which he said was much used among the natives -in the cure of lues venerea. They make a decoction of the root, -which they continue to drink for some time. It is called "blue -wood" by the French, and is the symphoria racemosa of Pursh, -common to the maritime states, the banks of the St. Lawrence, and -the Missouri. It is here rather taller, and the branches less -flexuous than in the eastern states.[096] - -Without meeting any remarkable occurrences, we moved on from day -to day, encountering numerous obstacles in the navigation of the -river, and being occasionally delayed by the failure of some part -of the steam-engine, till on the 2d of July, we arrived at Loutre -Island, where we found Mr. Say and his companions. - -After leaving the steam-boat at St. Charles, on the 25th of June, -this party had travelled over a somewhat hilly country, covered -with open oak woods for about ten miles, to a small creek, called -the Darden,[097] entering the Mississippi a few miles above the -Illinois. This stream they crossed three miles from the Missouri, -having in their walk suffered greatly {67} from thirst. At -evening they tied their pack-horse to a bush; and as they -returned, after being absent a few minutes for water, the animal -took fright, and breaking loose, disencumbered himself of his -pack, and set off on a gallop to return to St. Charles; and it was -not without great exertion that he was overtaken and brought back. -They then pitched their tent, and were so fortunate as to find a -house at the distance of half a mile. This belonged to a family -from Carolina, and exhibited great appearance of neatness and -comfort, but the owner was found particularly deficient in -hospitality. He refused to sell or to give any refreshments for -the use of the party, and even granted them some water with -apparent reluctance, marching haughtily about his piazza, while -some person was annoying his family by playing wretchedly on a -flute. Mr. Say and the gentlemen of his party had on the fatigue -dress of common soldiers, to which they probably owed the coldness -of their reception. We are, however, glad to be able, from much -experience, to say that there are few houses in the lately settled -parts of the United States, where common soldiers would have met -such a reception as was accorded by this Mr. N. to the gentlemen -of the party. Want of hospitality is rarely the fault of the -inhabitants of the remote settlements. Being refused refreshments, -they returned to their camp, and with the addition of a hawk which -they had killed, made a supper from the contents of their pack. - -On the 27th they crossed the Perogue,[098] about nineteen miles -from St. Charles; and after a fatiguing march of several miles, -were entertained at the house of a very worthy man, who supplied -them with whatever his place afforded. From too long fasting, and -from the effect of exposure and fatigue, Mr. Say and others became -somewhat unwell; and on their account, the party remained at the -house of their friendly host till evening, when they walked four -{68} miles to a place called Fort Kennedy. They purchased a ham, -and a loaf of corn bread of Mr. Kennedy, paying ten cents per -pound for the ham, and twenty-five cents for all the bread, milk, -and corn, consumed during their stay.[099] - -The next morning, having travelled about seven miles, they halted -for breakfast; and having fettered their horse, dismissed him to -feed; but when sought for the purpose of continuing their journey, -he could not be found. Two travellers at length arrived, and -informed them that the horse had been seen at about six miles' -distance, on the way towards St. Charles: a horse was therefore -hired, and a person returned in pursuit; but he was not to be -found, having proceeded on his journey previously to the arrival -of the messenger. - -The prairie flies (a species of tabanus,) are exceedingly -troublesome to horses and cattle, insomuch that people who cross -these grassy plains usually travel very early in the morning, and -again at evening, resting greater part of the day; some, indeed, -journey only by night. If they travel at all in the day, they have -the precaution to defend the horse, by a covering thrown loosely -over him. The tabani appear about the 10th of June, and are seen -in immense numbers, until about the 10th of August, when they -disappear. Near the farm houses we observed, that cattle, when -attacked by them, ran violently among the bushes, to rid -themselves of their persecutors.--Mosquitoes were not numerous. - -As they were fearful of being unable to overtake the steam-boat on -the Missouri, if they made a longer delay to prosecute the search -for their horse, it was determined to abandon him altogether, -rather than return to St. Charles, whither he had doubtless gone; -accordingly, on the 29th of June, they made a division of their -baggage, and each one shouldering his respective portion, -proceeded towards the margin of Loutre Prairie. When they arrived -here, they determined {69} to take the most direct route towards -the Missouri, as it seemed folly for them to attempt, in the -drought and heat, which then prevailed, to cross the extensive -plains of Loutre and the Grand Prairie with their heavy burthens. -They therefore followed a path leading nearly south, along a naked -ridge; where they travelled twelve miles, without finding water, -and arrived at Loutre Island in the evening. They were all the day -tormented with excessive thirst; and being unaccustomed to -travelling on foot, they were much fatigued, and several became -lame. The soil of the extensive prairies which they passed was not -very good; but mixed at the surface with so much vegetable matter, -accumulated by the successive growth and decomposition of the -yearly products, as to give it the aspect of fertility.[100] - -On the south side of Loutre Prairie a well has been sunk -sixty-five feet, without obtaining water; on the north water is -readily found, by digging to a moderate depth. Loutre Prairie is -twenty-three, and Grand Prairie is twenty-five miles in length: on -the borders of each are some scattering settlements. - -Near Loutre Island are several forts, as they are called by the -inhabitants, built by the settlers during the late war, and -designed to afford protection against the attacks of the -aborigines, chiefly the Kickapoos, and Saukees, who were most -feared in this quarter. They are simply strong log-houses, with a -projecting upper story, and with loop-holes for musketry. - -It was within a few miles of this place, that a company of mounted -rangers, commanded by Captain Calloway, were attacked by the -Indians. The assault commenced as the rangers were entering a -narrow defile, near the confluence of the Prairie Forks of Loutre -Creek. Several men were killed at the first fire, and Captain -Calloway received in his body a ball that had passed through his -watch. So furious was the onset, that there was no time for -reloading their pieces after they had discharged them. {70} -Captain Calloway threw his gun into the creek, that it might not -add to the booty of the Indians; and though mortally wounded, drew -his knife, and killed two of the assailants; but seeing no -prospect of success he ordered a retreat, hoping thereby to save -the lives of some of his men. He was the last to leave the ground; -when springing into the creek he received a shot in his head, and -expired immediately.[101] - -Loutre Island is something more than nine miles long, and about -one mile wide, and is the residence of several families. Between -it and the main land is an isthmus, which is left naked at times -of low water. Loutre Creek enters at the lower end of the island. -It is not navigable. Mr. Talbot, formerly from Kentucky, has been -resident here for nine years. His farm is in a high state of -cultivation, and furnishes abundant supplies of poultry, eggs, -potatoes, and the numerous products of the kitchen garden, of -which he sent a handsome present on board our boat. He informed us -that peach-trees succeed well in the most fertile parts of the -island.[102] - -The first dwellings constructed by the white settlers are nearly -similar in every part of the United States. Superior wealth and -industry are indicated by the number and magnitude of corn-cribs, -smoke-houses, and similar appurtenances; but on the Missouri, we -rarely meet with any thing occupying the place of the barn in the -northern states. The dwellings of people who have emigrated from -Virginia, or any of the more southern states, have usually the -form of double cabins, or two distinct houses, each containing a -single room, and connected to each other by a roof; the -intermediate space, which is often equal in area to one of the -cabins, being left open at the sides, and having the naked earth -for a floor, affords a cool and airy retreat, where the family -will usually be found in the heat of the day. The roof is composed -of from three to five logs, laid longitudinally, {71} and -extending from end to end of the building; on these are laid the -shingles, four or five feet in length; over these are three or -four heavy logs, called weight poles, secured at their ends by -withes, and by their weight supplying the place of nails. - -They have corn-mills, consisting of a large horizontal wooden -wheel, moved by a horse, and having a band passed round its -periphery to communicate motion to the stone. These are called -band-mills, and are the most simple and economical of those in -which the power of horses is employed. The solitary planter, who -has chosen his place remote from the habitation of any other -family, has sometimes a mill of a more primitive character, called -a hand-mill, probably differing little from those used among the -ancient Egyptians. It consists of two stones; and while one person -causes the uppermost to revolve horizontally upon the disk of the -other, a second, who is usually a child or a woman, introduces the -corn a few grains at a time, through a perforation in the upper -stone. Some are content with the still ruder apparatus, consisting -of an excavation in the top of a stump; into which the corn is -thrown, and brayed with a pestle. This is the method in use among -many of the agricultural Indians. - -A large species of lampyris is common on the lower part of the -Missouri. It is readily distinguished from the smaller species, -the common fire-fly, by its mode of coruscating. It emits from -three to seven or eight flashes, in rapid succession, then ceases; -but shortly after renews its brilliancy. This species appears -early in May. We saw many of them in returning by night from the -Merameg to St. Louis; but before our arrival at Loutre Island they -had disappeared, and were succeeded by great numbers of the -lampyris pyralis, whose coruscations are inferior in quantity of -light, and appear singly. - -The black walnut attains, in the Missouri bottoms, {72} its -greatest magnitude. Of one, which grew near Loutre Island, there -had been made two hundred fence-rails, eleven feet in length, and -from four to six inches in thickness. A cotton-tree, in the same -neighbourhood, produced thirty thousand shingles, as we were -informed by a credible witness. - - -FOOTNOTES: - - [077] The name Pain Court (Short of Bread), and the similar - appellations of Carondelet (_Vide Poche_--Empty Pocket), - and of Ste. Geneviève (_Misère_--Poverty), are said to have - originated in the good-natured raillery between the French of - the several settlements. They probably point also to the want - often experienced by a trading people who neglected agriculture. - For further facts relative to the early history of St. Louis, - see Croghan's _Journals_, in our volume i, note 134, and André - Michaux's _Travels_, in our volume iii, note 138.--ED. - - - [078] The lack of a good harbor at St. Louis has occasioned - vast trouble and expense. The encroachment of the river on the - Illinois side caused sand-bars to form along the city water - front, and for many years it seemed likely that the town would - eventually be left high and dry. Efforts at improvement were - begun in 1833, ox-teams and plows being used to loosen the sand - for high water to remove. Both city and federal governments have - since made many improvements, the river at that point requiring - almost continuous care.--ED. - - - [079] George Rapp, the founder of the Harmonites, was born in - Würtemberg in 1770. The sect endeavored to revive the practices - of the primitive Christian church, communism and celibacy being - among its tenets. After founding Harmony, Pennsylvania, in 1803, - and New Harmony, Indiana, in 1815, the community settled at - Harmony, Pennsylvania, where Rapp died in 1847.--ED. - - - [080] C. parviflorum.--JAMES. - - - [081] Hamamelis virginica, and quercus nigra.--JAMES. - - - [082] Bradbury's _Travels_ are reprinted as volume v of our - series. See preface of that volume for biographical sketch.--ED. - - - [083] What we have called base in the following statement is in - reality the length of a line passing over the top of the mound, - from the termination of the base each side. - - The numbers refer to a draft. The heights are estimated, with - the exception of two. - - No. 2. A square with a hollow way, gradually sloping to the top; - or, in other words, a hollow square open behind. - - feet. - Base 50 - Height 5 - Distance N. from the Spanish bastion 259 - - No. 3. An oblong square. - - feet. - Longitudinal base 114 - Transverse base 50 - Length at top 80 - Perpendicular height 4 - Distance from No. 2. N. 115 - - No. 4. An oblong square. - - feet. - Longitudinal base 84 - top 45 - Perpendicular height 4 - Distance N. 251 - - - Nos. 2. 3. and 4. are each about 33 - ordinary steps from the edge of the - second bank of the river. - - No. 5. An oblong square. - - feet. - Longitudinal base 81 - top 35 - Perpendicular height 4 - Distance W. 155 - - No. 6. Different in form from the - others. It is called the _Falling - Garden_, and consists of three stages, - all of equal length, and of the same - parallelogramic form: the superior - stage, like the five succeeding mounds, - is bounded on the east by the edge of - the second bank of the river: the second - and third stages are in succession on - the declivity of the bank, each being - horizontal; and are connected with each - other, and with the first, by an - abruptly oblique descent. - - feet. - Longitudinal base 114 - top 88 - Transverse base of first stage 30 - height of first stage 5 - Declivity to the second stage 34 - Transverse surface of second stage 51 - Declivity to the third stage 30 - Transverse surface of third stage 87 - Declivity to the natural slope 19 - - feet. - No. 7. Like the three succeeding ones, - conical. - Distance northward 95 - Base 83 - Top 34 - Height 4-1/2 - - No. 8. Distance about N. 94 - Base 98 - Top 31 - Height 5 - - No. 9. Distance about N. 70 - Base 114 - Top 56 - Height 16 - - No. 10. Distance about N. 74 - Base 91 - Top 34 - Height 8 or 10 - - No. 11. Nearly square, with a large area - on the top (a brick house is erected at - the S.W. corner). The eastern side - appears to range with the preceding - mounds. - Distance 158 - Base 179 - Top 107 - Height W. side, say 5 - Height S. 11 - Height E. 15 or 20 - - No. 12. Nearly square, westerly a little - N. from No. 7. and distant from it 30 - Base 129 - Top 50 - Height 10 - - No. 13. A parallelogram, placed - transversely with respect to the group. - - feet. - Distance 30 - Distance from No. 5. N. 10 W. 350 - Longitudinal base 214 - top 134 - Transverse base 188 - top 97 - Height 12 - - No. 14. A convex mound, W. 55 - Base 95 - Height 5 or 6 - - No. 15. Together with the three - succeeding ones, more or less square. - - feet. - Distance N.W. 117 - Base 70 - Height 4 - - No. 16. Distance N. 10 E. 103 - Base 124 - - No. 17. Distance N. 78 - Base 82 - - No. 18. Distance, N.N.E. 118 - Base 77 - - The mounds from 14. to 18. inclusive, - are so arranged as to describe a curve, - which, when continued, terminates at the - larger mounds, Nos. 15. and 19. No. 19. - A large quadrangular mound, placed - transversely, and with No. 13., ranging - in a line nearly parallel to the - principal series (from 2. to 11.) - - feet. - Distance N.N.W. from No. 13. 484 - Distance E.N.E. from No. 18. 70 - Base 187 - Top 68 - (By measurement) Height 23 - - No. 20. A small barrow, perhaps two feet - high, and of proportionably rather large - base, say 15 or 20 feet. - - No. 21. A mound similar to the - preceding, same height. West of No. 16., - base 25 feet. - - No. 22. Quadrangular. - - feet. - Distance West from No. 16. 319 - Base 73 - - No. 23. A mound of considerable - regularity; but, owing to the - thickness of the bushes, we cannot at - present satisfy ourselves of its being - artificial, though from its - corresponding with No. 25. we suppose - it to be so. - - No. 24. Appears to be an irregular mound - 10 or 12 feet high, and 145 feet base. - - No. 25. Distant N. 10 E. 114 feet; and - following this course 132 feet, we - arrive at an elevation on its margin, - as is also the case with No. 24., and - which we have numbered 26. - - No. 26. Of which the base is 89 feet, - and height 10 or 12.--It is distant - W.N.W. from No. 26., 538 feet. - - No. 27. Is the largest mound, of an - elongated-oval form, with a large step - on the eastern side. - - feet. - Distance N. from No. 26. 1463 - Longitudinal base 319 - top 136 - Transverse base 158 - top 11 - Step transversely 79 - Height by measurement 34 - - At the distance of a mile to the westward, is said to be another - large mound.--JAMES. - - _Comment by Ed._ These mounds have been effaced by the growth - of the city. The map of them prepared by Long's party was not - published until 1861; it will be found on page 387 of the - Smithsonian Institution _Report_ for that year. - - - [084] The uncertainty with which the shell mentioned was classed - as _Cassis cornutus_ renders its identification in terms of - modern nomenclature practically impossible; such identification - could be accurately made only by examination of the same - specimen. The value of the argument relative to the origin of - the Indians is, therefore, not easy to estimate.--ED. - - - [085] From this fact it derived the name "Monk's Mound." The - Trappist establishment was made in 1808, but was soon afterwards - abandoned. The mound is one of the largest in the United - States--the area of the base is six acres, that of the top two; - the height is ninety-one feet.--ED. - - - [086] Maturin.-JAMES. - - _Comment by Ed._ Charles Robert Maturin (1782-1816) was a Dublin - dramatist and novelist. In his writings passages of undoubted - eloquence were strangely mingled with extravagance and bombast. - The incoherence of his plots and the inconsistency of his - characters led many who recognized his genius to believe him mad. - - - [087] The cordelle was a rope, often several hundred yards - long, by means of which men towed boats up rapid streams. When - the current was especially strong, the end of the cordelle was - attached to a tree and a windlass used.--ED. - - - [088] In a section of forty feet perpendicular, of the alluvion - of the Mississippi, near New Madrid, Mr. Shultz found seven - hundred and ninety-eight layers, indicating an equal number of - inundations, in the time of their deposition. Supposing these - inundations to have happened yearly, we have an easy method - of forming an estimate of the rapidity of the elevation of - the bed of the Mississippi. These layers were found to vary - in thickness, from one-fourth of an inch to three inches. See - Shultz's _Travels_, vol. ii. p. 90.--JAMES. - - - [089] Bellefontaine, or Fort Bellefontaine (old Fort Charles - the Prince), was occupied by troops until 1826. See Thwaites, - _Original Journals of the Lewis and Clark Expedition_, v, pp. - 392, 393, note 2. The site of the newer works mentioned in the - text is now uncertain. An island opposite the mouth of Cold - Water Creek was the camp of Lewis and Clark the first night - after beginning the ascent of the Missouri (May 14, 1804).--ED. - - - [090] Tilia Americana. The Podalyria alba, anemone virginiana, - polygala incarnata (prairies) anagallis arvensis, lathyrus - decaphyllus, ranunculus fluviatalis, carex multiflora, &c. were - collected at Bellefontain. _Dr. Baldwin's MS. Notes._--JAMES. - - - [091] The correct orthography of the word is Charbonnière, which - means "carrying coals."--ED. - - - [092] This was Benjamin O'Fallon, whose mother was the youngest - sister of George Rogers and William Clark; his father, Dr. James - O'Fallon, was a Revolutionary character and prominent Kentucky - pioneer. A brother, John O'Fallon, was in the middle of the - century, one of the most prominent citizens of St. Louis. - - John Dougherty was later for many years agent for the Oto, - Pawnee, and Omaha tribes.--ED. - - - [093] For St. Charles, see Bradbury's _Travels_, in our volume - v, note 9.--ED. - - - [094] The vegetable productions at this place were, the populus - deltoides, occupying the narrow margin of the river (not here - preceded by the salix angustata, as is generally the case in - recent alluvial grounds on the Ohio and Mississippi); the - amorpha fruticosa,[A] and platanus occidentalis, next follow. - The margin of the bluff produces the quercus rubra, juglans - pubescens, carpinus Americana, (around the latter, we observed - the celastrus scandens entwined and in fruit,) and on higher - grounds, the laurus sassafras and juniperus Virginianus. Of - herbaceous plants, the only one in flower was the rudbeckia - fulgida. The higher parts of the hills were in many places - thickly covered with species of elymus and andropogon, the - summits being usually quite naked, and consisting of horizontal - masses of ferruginous coloured sandstone. _Baldwin._--JAMES. - - - [A] This beautiful flowering shrub occupies the low lands of - Georgia, on the sea coast, but is not confined to the margin of - rivers, as appears to be the case on the Missouri. - - - [095] On Point L'Abbadie, see Bradbury's _Travels_, comprising - our volume v, note 13.--ED. - - - [096] Baldwin.--JAMES. - - - [097] Dardenne Creek flows northeast across St. Charles County - to the Mississippi, as do nearly all the watercourses of this - county. It and the township of the same name are so called from - one of the early settlers.--ED. - - - [098] Perruque (Wig) Creek is said to commemorate the adventure - of a Frenchman whose wig became entangled in the branches of a - tree while he was crossing the stream.--ED. - - - [099] Thomas Kennedy, a Revolutionary veteran from Virginia - came to Warren County, Missouri, early in 1808. His stockade - and blockhouse, built for protection against the Indians during - the War of 1812-15, stood a mile and a half southeast of Wright - City.--ED. - - - [100] The course of the party had been northwest through St. - Clair and Warren counties, and thence south by west to the - river. Loutre Island is on the boundary between Warren and - Montgomery counties.--ED. - - - [101] This affair took place March 7, 1815. Captain James - Callaway was the grandson of Daniel Boone. His company consisted - besides himself of a lieutenant and fourteen men.--ED. - - - [102] Loutre (Otter) Island was the site of the first - settlements in Montgomery County, which probably date back - to 1798. There were two Talbots among the early arrivals, - Christopher and Hale. Among their neighbors were the Thorps, - Ashcrafts, Coles, Pattons, and Coopers--there were two or three - families of each, most of them being from Kentucky. The father - of "Kit" Carson was another member of the community.--ED. - - - - -{73} CHAPTER IV - - Settlement of Cote Sans Dessein--Mouths of the Osage--Manito - Rocks--Village of Franklin - - -The left bank of the Missouri at the confluence of Loutre Creek -is precipitous, terminating a group of hills which can be -distinguished running far to the north-east. Towards the river -these fall off in perpendicular precipices, whose bases are -concealed in a dense growth of trees and underwood. From their -summits huge masses of rock have fallen; and some of these are -of such magnitude, that their summits rise above the surrounding -forest. One standing opposite the head of the island next above -Loutre, is marked with numerous rude drawings, executed by the -Indians; some representing men with the heads of bisons, spears, -arrows, bows, &c. Half a mile above this rock the Gasconade enters -the Missouri from the south. The sources of this river are in -the hilly country, near those of some of the larger tributaries -of the Yungar fork of the Osage; its waters are transparent, and -its current rapid. Traversing a rocky and broken country, it has -not the uniformity of current common to many of the branches of -the Missouri, but is varied by numerous cataracts and rapids, -affording convenient stations for water-mills. Some saw-mills -have already been erected; and from them a supply of pine-timber -is brought to the settlements on the Missouri, that tree being -rarely met with here, except in the hilly country. The Gasconade is -navigable for a few miles. As might be expected, a projected town -is placed at the confluence of this {74} river and the Missouri, -and is to be called Gasconade.[103] - -Above the Gasconade, the aspect of the shores of the Missouri is -the same as below, except that the hills are discontinued on the -left side, and make their appearance on the right, extending along -eight or nine miles; above this both shores are low bottom -grounds. - -Having received on board Mr. Say and his companions, we left -Loutre Island on the 3d of July; and passing in succession the -mouths of the Gasconade, Bear Creek, the Au Vase, and other -tributaries, we anchored on the evening of the 5th, above the -little village of Cote Sans Dessein.[104] This place contains -about thirty families, mostly French, occupying as many small log -cabins, scattered remotely along the left bank of the river. -Nearly opposite the village is the lower mouth of the Osage. Just -above the town is the elevated insular hill, which has given name -to the place; it extends about eight hundred yards, parallel to -the bank of the river, and terminates at a small stream called -Revoe's Creek. Back of the hill is a marsh, discharging a small -stream of water into the creek. The site of the settlement of Cote -Sans Dessein is remarkable on account of the fertility of the -soil, the black mould extending to the depth of about four feet. -The soil is very rich for twenty or thirty miles, in the rear of -the village; but the uncertainty of the titles, arising from the -conflicting claims, founded on the basis of pre-emption, New -Madrid grants, and the concession of a large tract opposite the -mouth of the Osage, made by the Spanish authorities in favour of Mr. -Choteau, still operates to retard the increase of population.[105] - -At the time of the late war the inhabitants of this settlement, -relying on mutual protection, did not retire, but erected two -stockades, and block-houses for their defence; the Sauks, assisted -by some Foxes and Ioways, having by a feigned attack and {75} -retreat, induced the greater part of the men to pursue them, -gained their rear by means of an ambuscade, and entering the -village, raised their war-cry at the doors of the cabins. The -women and children fled in consternation to the block-houses. At -this juncture a young man was seen, who would not abandon his -decrepit mother, even though she entreated him to fly and save his -own life, leaving her, who could at best expect to live but a few -days, to the mercy of the savages. The youth, instead of listening -to her request, raised her upon his shoulders, and ran towards the -stockade, closely pursued by the Indians. They fired several times -upon him, and he must have been cut off had not a sally been made -in his favour. - -After killing the villagers who had fallen into their hands, the -Indians proceeded to attack the lower stockade. The block-house at -this work was defended by two men, and several women. On hearing -the war-cry, this little but determined garrison responded to it -in such a manner as to communicate to the Indians the idea that -the block-house contained a considerable number of men. They, -therefore, proceeded to the attack with caution. In the first -onset, one of the two men received a mortal wound, which made him -incapable of further exertion--the other continued to discharge -the guns at the besiegers, they being loaded and put into his -hands by the women. One mode of attack, adopted by the Indians, -had nearly proved successful. They threw burning torches upon the -roof, which was several times on fire; but the women, with -admirable presence of mind, and undaunted intrepidity, ascended to -the top of the building and extinguished the flames. This scene -continued during the entire day; and at evening, when the -assailants withdrew, a small portion only of the roof remained; so -often had the attempt to fire the building been repeated. The loss -sustained by the enemy was never correctly {76} ascertained; it -has since been stated by an Indian, that fourteen were killed and -several wounded, but many are of opinion that two or three only -were killed. - -We saw the hero of this affair at the block-house itself, now -converted into a dwelling; but he did not appear to be greatly -esteemed, having perhaps few qualities except personal intrepidity -to recommend him.[106] Cote Sans Dessein contains a tavern, a -store, a blacksmith's shop, and a billiard table. - -The Cane[107] is no where met with on the Missouri; but its place -is in part supplied by the equisetum hiemale, which, remaining -green through the winter, affords an indifferent pasturage for -horned cattle and horses: to the latter, it often prove -deleterious. The inhabitants of St. Genevieve placed their horses -upon an island covered with rushes, where great numbers of them -shortly after died; but it was observed that such as received -regularly a small quantity of salt remained uninjured. Of a large -number of horses, placed on an island near the mouth of the -Nishnebottona,[108] to feed upon this plant, no less than twenty -were found dead at the end of five days. May not the deleterious -properties of the equisetum hiemale depend, in some measure, on -the frozen water included in the cavity of the stalk? - -We were told the cows on this part of the Missouri, at certain -seasons of the year, give milk so deleterious as to prove fatal, -when taken into the stomach; and this effect is commonly -attributed to a poisonous plant, said to be frequent in the low -grounds, where it is eaten by the cattle. They have a disease -called the _milk sickness_: it commences with nausea and -dizziness, succeeded by headache, pain in the stomach and bowels, -and finally, by a prostration of strength, which renders the -patient unable to stand; a general torpor soon ensues, succeeded -{77} by death. It is a common belief that the flesh of animals, -that have eaten of this poisonous weed, is noxious, and that -horses are destroyed by it. - -We have heard it remarked by the inhabitants of the Ohio below -the rapids, that the milk of cows running at large in August is -poisonous; and this they do not fail to attribute to the effect -of noxious plants; and in some places they point out to you one, -and in another place another vegetable, to which they assign these -properties. The inhabitants generally seem to have no suspicion -that milk, unless it is poisoned, can be an unwholesome article -of diet; and we have been often surprised to see it given to -those labouring under fever. Throughout the western states, and -particularly in the more remote settlements, much use is made of -butter-milk, and soured milk in various forms; all of which they -sell to travellers. Below Cote Sans Dessein we paid, for new milk, -twenty-five cents per gallon, and for soured milk, eighteen and -three-fourth cents. At that place twenty-five cents per quart were -demanded by the French settlers. It is commonly remarked that the -French, as well as the Indians, who have been long in the immediate -vicinity of the whites, charge a much higher price for any article -than the Anglo-Americans, under the same circumstances. Emigrants -from the southern states prefer sour milk; and the traveller's -taste in this particular, we have often observed, forms a test -to discover whether he is entitled to the opprobrious name of -_Yankee_, as the people of the northern and eastern states rarely -choose sour milk. We have found that in some of the sickliest parts -of the valley of the Mississippi, where bilious and typhoid fevers -prevail, through the summer and autumn, the most unrestrained use -is made of butter, milk, eggs, and similar articles of diet. Dr. -Baldwin was of opinion that the _milk sickness_ of the Missouri -did not originate from any deleterious vegetable substance eaten -by the cows, but {78} was a species of typhus, produced by putrid -exhalations, and perhaps aggravated by an incautious use of a milk -diet. - -During the few days we remained at Cote Sans Dessein, Dr. Baldwin, -though suffering much from weakness, and yielding perceptibly -to the progress of a fatal disease, was able to make several -excursions on shore. His devotion to a fascinating pursuit -stimulated him to exertions for which the strength of his wasted -frame seemed wholly inadequate; and it is not, perhaps, improbable -that his efforts may have somewhat hastened the termination of his -life. - -Between Loutre Island and Cote Sans Dessein compact limestone -occurs, in horizontal strata, along the sides of the Missouri -valley. It is of a bluish white colour, compact structure, and a -somewhat concoidal fracture, containing few organic remains. It -alternates with sandstones, having a silicious cement.[109] These -horizontal strata are deeply covered with soil, usually a -calcareous loam, intermixed with decayed vegetable matter. - -July 6th.--Soon after leaving the settlement of Cote Sans Dessein, -we passed the upper and larger mouth of the Osage river. Here, to -use the language of the country, a town has been _located_, and -the lots lately disposed of at St. Louis, at various prices, from -fifty to one hundred and eighty dollars each.[110] Within the -limits of this town is a considerable hill, rising at the point of -the junction of the two rivers, and running parallel to the -Missouri. From its summit is an extensive view of the village of -Cote Sans Dessein, and the surrounding country. - -The river of the Osages, so called from the well-known tribe of -Indians inhabiting its banks, enters the Missouri one hundred and -thirty-three miles above the confluence of the latter river with -the Mississippi. Its sources are in the Ozark mountains, opposite -those of the White river of the Mississippi, and of the Neosho, -{79} a tributary of the Arkansa. Flowing along the base of the -north-western slope of a mountainous range, it receives from the -east several rapid and beautiful rivers, of which the largest is -the Yungar, (so named, in some Indian language, from the great -number of springs tributary to it,) entering the Osage one hundred -and forty miles from the Missouri. - -In point of magnitude the Osage ranks nearly with the Cumberland -and Tennessee. It has been represented as navigable for six -hundred miles; but as its current is known to be rapid, flowing -over great numbers of shoals and sand-bars, this must be -considered an exaggeration. In the lower part of its course it -traverses broad and fertile bottom lands, bearing heavy forests of -sycamore and cotton trees. We may expect the country along the -banks of this river will soon become the seat of a numerous -population, as it possesses in a fertile soil and a mild climate, -advantages more than sufficient to compensate for the difficulty -of access, and other inconveniences of situation. - -The northern bank of the Missouri, for some distance above the -confluence of the Osage, is hilly. Moreau's Creek enters three -miles above; and at its mouth is Cedar Island, where we anchored -for the night. This island is three miles long, and has furnished -much cedar timber for the settlements below; but its supply is now -nearly exhausted.[111] - -In the afternoon of the following day we were entangled among -great numbers of _snags_ and _planters_, and had a cat-head -carried away by one of them. In shutting off the steam on this -occasion, one of the valves was displaced; and as we were no -longer able to confine the steam, the engine became useless, the -boat being thus exposed to imminent danger. At length we succeeded -in extricating ourselves; and came to an anchor near the entrance -of a small stream, called Mast Creek by Lewis and Clarke.[112] - -{80} At evening dense cumulostratus and cirrostratus clouds -skirted the horizon: above these we observed a comet bearing -north-west by north. Above the mouth of the Osage, the immediate -valley of the Missouri gradually expands, embracing some wide -bottoms, in which are many settlements increasing rapidly in the -number of inhabitants. The Manito rocks, and some other -precipitous cliffs, are the terminations of low ranges of hills -running in quite to the river. These hills sometimes occasion -rapids in the river, as in the instance of the Manito rocks; -opposite which commences a group of small islands stretching -obliquely across the Missouri, and separated by narrow channels, -in which the current is stronger than below. Some of these -channels we found obstructed by collections of floating trees, -which usually accumulate about the heads of islands, and are here -called rafts. After increasing to a certain extent, portions of -these rafts becoming loosened, float down the river, sometimes -covering nearly its whole surface, and greatly endangering the -safety, and impeding the progress, of such boats as are ascending. -The group above mentioned is called the Thousand Islands. - -Nashville, Smithton, Rectorsville, and numerous other towns of -similar character and name, containing from one to half a dozen -houses each, are to be met with in a few miles above the Little -Manito rocks. Almost every settler, who has established himself on -the Missouri, is confidently expecting that his farm is, in a few -years, to become the seat of wealth and business, and the mart for -an extensive district.[113] - -The banks of the Missouri, in this part, present an alternation of -low alluvial bottoms and rocky cliffs. Roche à Pierce Creek is a -small stream entering nearly opposite another, called Splice -Creek, a few miles above the Manito rocks. Here is a range of -rocky cliffs, penetrated by numerous cavities and fissures, {81} -hence called by the French boatmen, Roche a Piercè, and giving -name to the creek.[114] These rocks we found filled with organic -remains, chiefly encrinites. About eight or ten miles above this -point the Missouri again washes the base of the rocky hills, which -bound its immediate valley. The rocks advance boldly to the brink -of the river, exhibiting a perpendicular front, variegated with -several colours arranged in broad stripes. Here is a fine spring -of water gushing out at the base of the precipice; over it are -several rude paintings executed by the Indians. These cliffs are -called the Big Manito rocks, and appear to have been objects of -peculiar veneration with the aborigines, and have accordingly -received the name of their Great Spirit. - -It is not to be understood that the general surface of the -country, of which we are now speaking, is traversed by continuous -ridges, which, in their course across the valley of the Missouri, -occasion the alternation of hill and plain; which to a person -ascending the river, forms the most conspicuous feature of the -country. The immediate valley of the Missouri preserves great -uniformity in breadth, and is bounded on both sides by chains of -rocky bluffs rising from one to two hundred feet above the surface -of the included valley, and separating it from those vast woodless -plains which overspread so great a part of the country. -Meandering from right to left along this valley the river -alternately washes the base of the bluffs on either side, while, -from a person passing up or down the stream, the heavy forests -intercept the view of the bluffs, except at the points where they -are thus disclosed. Opposite the Big Manito rocks, and the island -of the same name, is the Little Saline river, on the left side; -and three or four miles above, on the opposite side, a stream -called the Big Manito Creek.[115] Here we passed the night of the -12th July. About midnight so violent a storm arose that we were -{82} compelled to leave our encampment on shore, the tent being -blown down, and to seek shelter on board the boat. Though the -storm did not continue long, the water fell to the depth of one -inch and an half. - -After taking in a supply of wood, we departed on the morning of -the 13th, and the same day arrived at Franklin. This town, at -present, increasing more rapidly than any other on the Missouri, -had been commenced but two years and an half before the time of our -journey. It then contained about one hundred and twenty log houses -of one story, several framed dwellings of two stories, and two of -brick, thirteen shops for the sale of merchandize, four taverns, -two smiths' shops, two large team-mills, two billiard-rooms, a -court-house, a log prison of two stories, a post-office, and a -printing-press issuing a weekly paper. At this time bricks were -sold at ten dollars per thousand, corn at twenty-five cents per -bushel, wheat one dollar, bacon at twelve and a half cents per -pound, uncleared lands from two to ten or fifteen dollars per -acre. The price of labour was seventy-five cents per day. - -In 1816 thirty families only of whites, were settled on the left -side of the Missouri, above Cote Sans Dessein. In three years, -their numbers had increased to more than eight hundred families. - -The Missouri bottoms about Franklin are wide, and have the same -prolific and inexhaustible soil as those below. The labour of one -slave is here reckoned sufficient for the culture of twenty acres -of Indian corn, and produces ordinarily about sixty bushels per -acre, at a single crop. In the most fertile parts of Kentucky, -fifteen acres of corn are thought to require the labour of one -slave, and the crop being less abundant, we may reckon the -products of agriculture there, at about one third part less than -in the best lands on the Missouri. Franklin is the seat of {83} -justice for Howard county. It stands on a low and recent alluvial -plain, and has behind it a small stagnant creek. The bed of the -river, near the shore, has been heretofore obstructed by -sand-bars, which prevented large boats from approaching the town; -whether this evil will increase or diminish, it is not possible to -determine; such is the want of stability in every thing belonging -to the channel of the Missouri. It is even doubtful whether the -present site of Franklin will not, at some future day, be occupied -by the river, which appears to be at this time encroaching on its -bank. Similar changes have happened in the short period since the -establishments of the first settlements on the Missouri. The site -of St. Anthony, a town which existed about thirteen years since, -near Bon Homme, is now occupied by the channel of the river. -Opposite Franklin is Boonsville, containing, at the time of our -visit, eight houses, but having, in some respects, a more -advantageous situation, and probably destined to rival, if not -surpass, its neighbour.[116] - -Numerous brine springs are found in the country about Franklin. -Boon's Lick, four miles distant, was the earliest settlement in -this vicinity, and for some time gave name to the surrounding -country. Some furnaces have been erected, and salt is manufactured, -in sufficient quantities to supply the neighbouring settlements. -Compact limestone appears to be the prevailing rock, but it is well -known that the coal-beds, and strata of sand-stone, occur at a -little distance from the river.[117] We visited one establishment -for the manufacture of salt. The brine is taken from a spring at -the surface of the earth, and is not remarkably concentrated, -yielding only one bushel of salt to each four hundred and fifty -gallons. Eighty bushels are manufactured daily, and require three -cords of wood for the evaporation of the water. The furnace -consists of a chimney-like funnel, rising obliquely along the side -of a hill, {84} instead of the vertical and horizontal flues, -commonly used in these manufactories. The fire being kindled in -the lower orifice of this, the ascent of the air drives the flame -against forty or fifty iron pots, inserted in a double series; -to these the water is conveyed by small pipes. The banks of the -ravine in which this spring rises, still retain the traces of those -numerous herds of bisons, elk, and other herbivorous animals, which -formerly resorted here for their favourite condiment. - -While at Franklin, the gentlemen of the exploring party received -many gratifying attentions, particularly from Gen. T. A. Smith, at -whose house they were often hospitably received, and where they -all dined by invitation on the 17th of July.[118] Here we met -several intelligent inhabitants of the village, and of the -surrounding country, from whose conversation we were able to -collect much information of the character of the country, and the -present condition of the settlements. - -Mr. Munroe, a resident of Franklin, related to us, that being on a -hunting excursion, in the year 1816, he remained some time on a -branch of the Le Mine river, where he found the relics of the -encampment of a large party of men, but whether of white troops, -or Indian warriors, he could not determine. Not far from this -encampment, he observed a recent mound of earth, about eight feet -in height, which he was induced to believe must be a cachè, or -place of deposit, for the spoils which the party, occupying the -encampment, had taken from an enemy, and which they could not -remove with them on their departure. He accordingly opened the -mound, and was surprised to find in it the body of a white -officer, apparently a man of rank, and which had been interred -with extraordinary care. - -The body was placed in a sitting posture, upon an Indian rush mat, -with its back resting against some logs placed around it in the -manner of a log house, enclosing {85} a space of about three by -five feet, and about four feet high, covered at top with a mat -similar to that beneath. The clothing was still in sufficient -preservation to enable him to distinguish a red coat, trimmed with -gold lace, golden epaulets, a spotted buff waistcoat, finished -also with gold lace, and pantaloons of white nankeen. On the head -was a round beaver hat, and a bamboo walking stick, with the -initials J. M. C. engraved upon a golden head, reclined against -the arm, but was somewhat decayed where it came in contact with -the muscular part of the leg. On raising the hat, it was found -that the deceased had been hastily scalped. - -To what nation this officer belonged, Mr. Munroe could not -determine. He observed, however, that the button taken from the -shoulder, had the word Philadelphia moulded upon it. The cane -still remains in the possession of the narrator, but the button -was taken by another of his party. - -In relation to this story, Gen. Smith observed, that when he -commanded the United States' troops in this department, he was -informed of an action that had taken place near the Le Mine, in -the Autumn of 1815, between some Spanish dragoons, aided by a few -Pawnee Indians, and a war party of Sauks and Foxes. In the course -of this action, a Spanish officer had pursued an Indian boy, who -was endeavouring to escape with a musket on his shoulder, but who -finding himself nearly overtaken, had discharged the musket behind -him at random, and had killed the officer on the spot. The -skirmish continuing, the body was captured, and recaptured several -times, but at last remained with the Spanish party. This may -possibly have been the body discovered by Mr. Munroe, but by whom -it was buried, in a manner so singular, is unknown. - -About the middle of July, the summer freshets in the Missouri -began to subside at Franklin. On the {86} 17th the water fell -twelve inches, though in the preceding week more than two inches -of rain had fallen. We were informed that the floods had continued -longer this year, and had risen higher than usual, owing to the -unusual quantities of rain that had fallen. - - -FOOTNOTES: - - [103] Of Gasconade in 1823 it is said, "very few buildings are - as yet erected, and it is very doubtful whether its increase - will be as rapid as was anticipated." It was the first seat of - Gasconade County, but was supplanted by Hermann. At present its - population numbers less than one hundred. - - The description of Gasconade River is adequate. The "Yungar" - fork of Osage is now called Niangua (Osage word for bear).--ED. - - - [104] Au Vase (Muddy) has been corrupted to Auxvasse, and there - are now two streams in Callaway County bearing this name. The - larger, also called Big Muddy Creek, is the first important - stream above the Gasconade. Bear (or Loose) Creek, is seven - miles farther up, and the second Auxvasse, which answers the - description in the text, is just beyond. Other tributaries are - Deer Creek, from the south, just above Big Muddy River, and - Middle River, from the north, opposite Bear Creek. The stream - called Revoe's Creek a few lines below, is now Rivaux (Rivals) - Creek. - - For Côte Sans Dessein, see Bradbury's _Travels_, comprising our - volume v, note 20.--ED. - - - [105] The grants of land in Louisiana under Spanish rule were - in a marked degree irregular and heterogeneous. Only those were - complete which had received endorsement by the governor-general - at New Orleans. Most of the settlers were too poor to undertake - the journey thither and pay the required fees; a tacit right - of occupation was therefore permitted by the local officials, - lands were unsurveyed, and much confusion resulted. During the - last decade of Spanish authority (1794-1804) large numbers of - Americans had been tempted to cross the Mississippi and stake - out claims in upper Louisiana. Some of these were bona fide - settlers, more mere speculators; and after the rumor of Spanish - cession to France was heard, fraudulent grants were made in - large numbers. Upon knowledge of this, the congress of the - United States in the act of March 26, 1804, revoked all grants - made since the treaty of San Ildefonso (1800) with a proviso - exempting the rights of actual settlers. This law created much - dissatisfaction, and petitions for redress were sent from both - upper Louisiana and Orleans Territory. See _American State - Papers_, "Miscellaneous," i, pp. 396-405. Thereupon Congress - passed acts for redress--that for upper Louisiana (March 2, - 1805) creating a commission, which first met in St. Louis, - September 20, 1806; but its final report was not made until - 1812. See _American State Papers_, "Public Lands," ii, pp. - 388-603. - - The lands set apart for the relief of sufferers by the New - Madrid earthquakes were known as "New Madrid grants." Auguste - Chouteau established the first distillery in St. Louis by the - aid of an extensive grant.--ED. - - - [106] The hero of this exploit was a Frenchman bearing the name - of Baptiste Louis Roi.--ED. - - - [107] Miegia macrosperma of Persoon.--JAMES. - - - [108] The Nishnebottona (Nishnabotna) enters the Missouri in - Atchison County, in the northwest corner of the state. See - _post_, note 166.--ED. - - - [109] From Bay Charles Hill, four miles below Hannibal, - Missouri, we received, through Dr. Sommerville, several organic - remains. Among them are the following:-- - - Carbonate of Lime. - - One specimen contains exclusive quantities of segments of the - encrinite of small diameter, from one-fourth of an inch down - to minute. - - Another specimen also, with numerous small encrinites, has a - very wide and short radiated productus. - - Another specimen, a grayish chert, containing cavities formed - by the solution and disappearance of encrinites. The parts of - these which were originally hollow when in the state of - carbonate of lime, being subsequently filled with chert, now - show the nature of the fossil, being cylindrical cavities, - with a solid centre and transverse partitions, the largest - three-tenths of an inch wide. - - From Rector's-hill, adjoining the village of Clarksville, - Missouri, from Dr. Sommerville's collection:-- - - A specimen of oolite--carbonate of lime. - - It is composed of small spherical granules in contact with - each other, which, in their fracture, exhibit rather a - concentric tendency, with the appearance of a central nucleus; - but we could not perceive any decided evidences of former - organization in them. Imbedded in the mass are a few columnar - segments of encrinites, and a portion of a compressed bivalve, - which, in the form of its radiating lines, resembles a pecten. - - From Charbonière:-- - - A specimen in argillaceous sandstone of a portion of a leaf - like the nelumbium. It is only the middle portion of the - impression of the leaf that remains, being of an oval form of - about five inches in greatest diameter, the rest being broken - away; the stalk has been broken off at the junction of the - leaf. - - Productus spinosus. SAY. - - A small species of terebratula, in width two-fifths, and in - length more than seven-tenths of an inch--an internal - cast--individuals very numerous, varying much in size, the - smallest being about one-fifth of an inch wide. - - From the Mammelles near St. Charles:-- - - Productus: a portion of a valve, and smaller portion of the - opposite valve of a remarkably large species, of which the - proportions may have been not dissimilar to that of the Ency. - Meth. pl. 244. fig. 5. The striæ are similar to those of that - shell, except in being somewhat smaller; and the groove of one - valve, and consequent elevation of the other, not so profound, - less abrupt, and more angular in the middle, and far less - prominent on the edge of the shell. It may justly be named - _grandis_, as its hinge width was more than 3-1/2 inches.--JAMES. - - - [110] The town established here was Osage City. In 1823 it was - described as still "nearly in a state of nature." The present - population is about five hundred.--ED. - - - [111] Moreau's Creek (River à Morou, Marrow Creek, Murrow Creek) - flows from the south. Moreau signifies "extremely black." - - Just above Cedar Island is Jefferson City (Missouriopolis on the - map,) the state capital.--ED. - - - [112] Mast Creek cannot be identified with certainty, as there - are several small creeks where Lewis and Clark locate it, - fourteen and a half miles above Cedar Island. The name was given - because of an accident to the mast of their vessel.--ED. - - - [113] Nashville was laid out in 1819, on land owned by a man - named Nash. The site was on the river, just below Providence, - Boone County, but the town was destroyed by a change of the - channel. - - The site of Smithton was a half mile west of the court house - in the town of Columbia, but the difficulty in obtaining water - there led to removal in 1820 to the site of Columbia. The - original town was named Smithton in honor of Thomas A. Smith, - land office register at Franklin. See _post_, note 118.--ED. - - - [114] Roche à Pierce is a corruption of a phrase meaning - "pierced rock," which has been restored in the present name of - the stream (Roche Percée). The mouth of the river is just above - Providence. - - On some maps, Splice Creek is Spice Creek.--ED. - - - [115] The Little Saline (Petite Saline) flows from the south. - Big Manito Creek (now corrupted to Moniteau) debouches at - Rocheport, on the north side of the river. Another Moniteau - Creek enters the Missouri from the south, at the Thousand - Islands, near the boundary between Cole and Moniteau - counties.--ED. - - - [116] The disaster feared actually occurred in 1828. Franklin - was laid off in 1816, being named for the famous Philadelphian. - For a decade it was a town of considerable importance. It was - the county seat, contained the United States land office, and - was the point of departure for the Santa Fé country. Most of the - inhabitants hailed from Kentucky, Tennessee, and Virginia, and - at one time numbered between fifteen hundred and two thousand. - When the encroachments of the river drove away the residents, - they founded New Franklin, two miles distant, and thereafter the - earlier site was known as Old Franklin.--ED. - - - [117] In compact limestone, which had been subjected to the - action of fire, we observed segments of encrinites becoming - easily detached. They were three-fifths of an inch in diameter, - varying to the size of fine sand. At Boonsville we found a small - ostrea and a terebratula, in carbonate of lime.--JAMES. - - - [118] Thomas A. Smith, a native of Virginia, attained - the rank of brigadier-general during the War of 1812-15. - Resigning his commission in 1818, he was appointed receiver of - the land office at Old Franklin, Missouri. In 1826 he removed - to a large tract of prairie land on Salt Fork, Saline County, - about eight miles from Marshall. This being one of the - earliest attempts to occupy prairie land, Smith called his - estate "Experiment." He was an intimate friend of Senator - Thomas A. Benton. See volume xvi of our series, note 91, for - his military record.--ED. - - - - -{87} CHAPTER V - - Death of Dr. Baldwin--Charaton River, and Settlement--Pedestrian - Journey from Franklin to Fort Osage. - - -Dr. Baldwin's health had so much declined that, on our arrival at -Franklin, he was induced to relinquish the intention of ascending -farther with the party. He was removed on shore to the house of -Dr. Lowry, intending to remain there until he should recover so -much strength as might enable him to return to his family. But the -hopes of his friends, even for his partial recovery, were not to be -realized. He lingered a few weeks after our departure, and expired -on the thirty-first of August. His diary, in which the latest date -is the eighth of August, only a few days previous to his death, -shows with what earnestness, even in the last stages of weakness -and disease, his mind was devoted to the pursuit, in which he had -so nobly spent the most important part of his life. He has left -behind him a name which will long be honoured;--his early death -will be regretted not only by those who knew his value as a friend, -but by all the lovers of that fascinating science, to which his -life was dedicated, and which his labours have so much contributed -to advance and embellish. We regret that it is not in our power to -add to this inadequate testimony of respect, such notices of the -life and writings of Dr. Baldwin, as might be satisfactory to our -readers. His manuscripts were numerous, but his works were left -unfinished. The remarks on the Rotbollia, published in Silliman's -Journal, are his only productions, as far as we are informed, -hitherto before the public.[119] His Herbarium, it is well known, -{88} has contributed to enrich the works of Pursh and Nuttall. He -was the friend and correspondent of the venerable Muhlenbergh, and -contributed materials for the copious catalogue of North American -plants, published by that excellent botanist. In South America -he met with Bonpland, the illustrious companion of Humboldt, and -a friendly correspondence was established between them, which -continued until his death.[120] He had travelled extensively, -not only in South America, but in Georgia, Florida, and other -parts of North America. His notes and collections are extensive -and valuable. During the short period of his connection with the -exploring party, the infirmities, resulting from a long established -and incurable pulmonary disease, then rapidly approaching its fatal -termination, could not overcome the activity of his mind, or divert -his attention entirely from his favourite pursuit. Though unable -to walk on shore, he caused plants to be collected and brought -on board the boat; and not disheartened by the many vexations -attending this method of examination, he persevered, and in the -course of the voyage from Pittsburgh to Franklin, detected and -described many new plants, and added many valuable observations -relating to such as were before known. To show the scope and -accuracy of his method of observation, and for the gratification -of the botanical reader, we subjoin a part of the observations -registered in Dr. Baldwin's diary, from July 15th, the time of our -departure from Cote Sans Dessein, to its conclusion. From this the -reader will be able to form a satisfactory idea of the vegetable -physiognomy of the country on this portion of the banks of the -Missouri.[121] - -Messrs. Say, Jessup, Seymour, and Dougherty, accompanied by Major -Biddle, left Franklin on the 19th of July, intending to traverse -the country by land, to Fort Osage, where they proposed to await -the arrival of the steamboat. A pack-horse was purchased {89} for -the transportation of their baggage, and a tent, blankets, and -provisions, furnished for their accommodation. - -The party now remaining on board the steam-boat, consisted of -Major Long, Major O'Fallon, Mr. Peale, and Lieutenants Graham and -Swift. Having completed some repairs of machinery, and other -necessary operations, which had occasioned a delay of six days at -Franklin, we left that place on the same day, at four o'clock in -the afternoon. The inhabitants of the village were assembled on -the banks of the river to witness our departure, and signified -their good wishes by repeated cheers and acclamations. The fuel we -had taken on board, being of an indifferent quality, we were able -to make small progress against the rapid current of the Missouri. -We anchored, for the night, three miles above Franklin. Finding -the valves, and other parts of the steam-engine, so much worn by -the fine sand, suspended in the water of the river, as to become -leaky, we were compelled to lie by, and were occupied for a day in -making repairs. In the meantime the boat's crew were employed in -taking on board a supply of dry mulberry wood, which is the best -that the forests along the Missouri afford. The water in the river -was now subsiding, and the rapidity of the current consequently -diminishing; we did not, therefore, so much regret the necessary -delays, as we might otherwise have done. Some of the party went -out on the south-west side of the river, to search for game. Most -of the deer, and larger animals, as well as the turkies, have -fled from this part of the country, though it is but a few years -since they were extremely abundant; they met, however, with a -racoon, the Maryland arctomys, some small birds, and some -interesting little animals. After leaving the river bottom, they -passed some groves of small scattered oak trees, and bushes, and -arrived at the margin of a wide grassy plain, which spread before -them as unvaried, {90} and apparently as boundless as the ocean, -and which is said to extend uninterrupted, near three hundred -miles, to the Arkansa. - -At evening a soldier came on board the boat, who had been sent -express from Colonel Chambers' command. He brought intelligence -that the detachment had arrived within fifteen miles of Fort -Osage, and that their provisions were nearly exhausted. - -Charaton, where we arrived on the 22d, is a small village, its -settlement having been commenced in the year 1817. It is, however, -in a flourishing condition, and from the advantages of its -situation, promises to become one of the most important towns on -the Missouri. It does not stand immediately on the bank of the -Missouri, but of the Charaton river, about seven hundred yards -above its mouth. Charaton will be the depot of merchandize, for a -large extent of fertile country, which lies towards the north and -east. At this time, the settlement contained about fifty houses, -and near five hundred inhabitants, on a spot where two years -previous, no permanent habitation had been established. Such is -the rapidity, with which the forests of the Missouri are becoming -filled with an enterprising and industrious population.[122] - -Charaton river is seventy-five yards wide at its mouth, and -navigable, at high water, one hundred and fifty miles. Half a -mile from its confluence with the Missouri, it receives the -Little Charaton, also a considerable stream, and navigable for -many miles. The Charaton originates near the De Moyen[123] river -of the Mississippi, and traverses a country which is of great -importance, both on account of the fertility of its soil, and its -inexhaustible mines of coal. The Western Engineer, being the first -steam-boat that had ever ascended the Missouri, above Charaton, -great numbers of the settlers were attracted to the banks of the -river, on both sides, to witness our progress. So numerous were -the obstacles to be encountered, that many were of opinion our -progress {91} would soon be arrested. It sometimes happened, that -mistaking the channel, we ran our boat aground in shoal places, -and in some instances it was necessary to fall back, in order to -extricate ourselves from these difficulties. In this way much time -was consumed. - -The expansions of the Missouri bottom above Franklin have, since -their settlement, received distinctive names. We pass on the south -the Chenai au Barre, Tabeau, Tite-saw, and Miami bottoms; on the -north, those of Charaton, Sugar-tree, and Grand river. These are -wild and fertile plains, usually covered with heavy forests of -cotton-wood, sycamore, ash, and sugar-maple, and partly encircled -by the bluffs, rising abruptly, about to the elevation of the -highest trees, thence sloping gradually to the prairies, the -region of the Gramina, and the Cyperacæa. Eighteen miles above -Charaton, is the entrance of Grand river an important tributary to -the Missouri from the north. This river is one hundred and fifty -yards wide at its mouth, and is navigable for boats of small -burthen, about two hundred miles. Its waters are transparent, -except in times of high floods, and its current less rapid than -that of the Missouri. There are no settlements on its banks, -except at the mouth, where is a trading house, and the residence -of a single family. The lands are, however, of a good quality, and -the adequate supply of timber, and numerous springs of water, will -ensure their speedy settlement. The Sauks, Foxes, and Ioways, hunt -in the plains towards the sources of Grand river, where elk and -deer are still numerous, and the latter dispose of their pelfries -to the traders on the Missouri.[124] - -The navigation of the Missouri, for a few miles above and below -the mouth of Grand river, is supposed to be more difficult than at -almost any other place, owing to the rapidity of the current, and -the numerous sand-bars and snags. Two miles above the confluence -is the channel called Grand river {92} Cut-Off, so thickly set -with snags as to be almost impassable. The distance by the Cut-Off -to the head of the island is three-fourths of a mile; by the -course of the river to the same point it is six miles.[125] We -followed the old channel, which is much obstructed by trunks of -trees and sand-bars, and after a few hours succeeded in ascending -this dangerous pass. Compact limestone, and argillaceous -sandstone, occur frequently along the Missouri, above the mouth of -Grand river, and indications of coal are often met with. In a -country affording but an insufficient supply of timber for the -consumption of a dense population, these extensive beds of fossil -coal will be considered of great value, and the necessities of the -inhabitants will lead to their early exploration. Whenever the -dominion of man is sufficiently established in these vast plains -to prevent the annual ravages of fires, trees will spring up; but -we may expect that before forests originating in this manner can -arrive at maturity, the population along the banks of the Missouri -will become so dense, as to require the greater part of the soil -for the purposes of culture. - -The beds of coal in this district lie horizontally, varying much -in thickness, and occurring often at an elevation of a few feet -above the surface of the water in the Missouri.[126] - -On the first of August we arrived at Fort Osage, one hundred and -five miles above the mouth of Grand river. Here Mr. Say and his -party had been some days encamped, having arrived on the 24th of -July from their equestrian journey across the country from -Franklin. After leaving that place on the 19th, they passed -through a fine bottom on the left side of the river, closely -covered with forests of oaks, elms, hackberry, walnut, the -mulberry, the gleditschia, the guilandina, and the other trees -common on the Missouri, for twelve miles, when they arrived at -Arrow rock, where is a ferry by which they crossed {93} the -Missouri. In this walk they passed a field of corn, containing -seven hundred acres. The ferry boat used at Arrow rock is one -peculiarly adapted to the navigation of a rapid stream. It -consists of two canoes, on which rests a platform, with a slight -railing to prevent cattle from falling off. - -Arrow rock is so called from its having been formerly resorted to, -by the neighbouring Indians, for the stone used to point their -arrows. It is a beautiful situation, and rises to considerable -elevation above the water.[127] From its summit is a pleasing view -of the river, and near the base is a remarkable eddy, which, as -they were crossing, whirled their ferry-boat entirely round. On -the second day they left their encampment at an early hour, and -travelled forward through plains where very few trees were to be -seen. They turned off from the Osage trace, in which they had been -travelling, and went eight miles to visit the salt-works, and some -remarkable diggings, on the saline fork of the Le Mine. Here, at -one establishment, one hundred bushels of salt are manufactured -per week; eight men are employed, and one hundred and eighty -gallons of water are evaporated to produce a bushel of salt.[128] - - -Two miles from the confluence of the Camp Fork with the Saline, -are the salt-works, and the residence of Mr. Lockhart, who -received the detachment with much hospitality. - -His works were not then in operation, but were sufficiently -extensive for the manufacture of five hundred bushels of salt per -week. Near his house are the _diggings_ so often mentioned in this -region as objects of curiosity. These are irregular, but very -numerous excavations of little depth, but evidently the result of -the united labours of many persons who were possessed of -instruments of iron and steel, as no others could have penetrated, -and removed the compact rocky soil, of which the points and brows -of the hills are composed. These excavations occur frequently {94} -in an extent of two or three miles; and from the amount of labour -which appears to have been expended on them, it has been thought -by some, that several hundred men must have been occupied two or -three years in digging them; but this is, doubtless, much -overrated. Whoever were the labourers; it is probable their search -was for the precious metals, though at present no indications of -any metallic ores, except of a little iron, are perceptible about -the diggings. Mr. Lockhart had sunk a shaft to the depth of -twenty-two feet, but the appearances continued the same as at the -surface.[129] - -After travelling forty miles from Arrow rock, for great part of -the way through open plains, where the high grass and weeds -rendered their progress difficult and laborious, they pitched -their tent, on the evening of July 21st, on a branch of the Le -Mine. Here they saw four Mississippi kites. The forks of the tail -of this bird are so much elongated as to resemble some fortuitous -appendage, for which, at first sight, they are often mistaken. -Sandhill cranes, and flocks of prairie hens were also seen, but -were so shy as not to be taken without much difficulty. - -The country about the Le Mine is beautiful and fertile. The -unaccustomed eye, in roving over those extensive undulating -prairies, is beguiled by the alternation of forests and meadows, -arranged with an appearance of order, as if by the labour of men, -and seeks in vain to repose upon some cottage or mansion embosomed -in the little copses of trees, or in the edge of the forest, which -margins the small streams and ravines in the distance. - -Their provisions being nearly exhausted, the detachment delayed a -short time at their encampment on the Le Mine, to replenish their -stock by hunting. This camp was near a place called the Grand -Pass, a narrow neck of prairie between the timber of the Saline, -and that of a small creek discharging directly {95} into the -Missouri. Here the Osage trace passes, and a little beyond falls -into a waggon-road leading to the Tabeau settlement.[130] - -On the 22nd Major Biddle experienced a severe attack of cramp in -the stomach, but soon found some relief from swallowing a -quantity of ginger, the only medicine with which they were -provided. On the following day they entered the forests of the -Missouri bottom, and soon after crossed the Tabeau, where a town -of the same name, at that time containing two houses, had been -established. Tabeau is the name of a Canadian hunter, who formerly -frequented this region.[131] The creek is navigable to the site of -the projected town, about one mile from the Missouri, having for -this distance about six feet of water. Four miles from this place -they crossed the Little Tabeau, and at evening pitched their tent -on a stream called the Little Chenal au Barre, about a mile and a -half from the Missouri. Here is a good mill seat. The Great and -Little Chenal au Barre, are two creeks entering the Missouri about -a mile and a half from each other. Before the mouths of these two -creeks is a large island, the slough or Chenal dividing this -island from the shore, received the additional name of Au Barre -from a hunter known by that appellation, who was lost here for -some time, successively ascending the two creeks, which he mistook -for the Missouri; hence the name of Chenal au Barre island, Great -and Little Chenal au Barre Creek, &c.[132] - -In the afternoon they halted to rest at the cabin of a hunter -on Fire Prairie Creek, so called from the circumstance of three -or four Indians having been burned to death by the sudden -conflagration of the dry grass in the meadows at its source.[133] -Here Mr. Say had an opportunity to examine a young black wolf, -which was confined by a chain at the door of the hut. These -animals are common in this part of the country. This individual -was one of five that had been taken from the same den. It had -become {96} familiar with the hunter and his family, but was shy -towards strangers. When fed on meat the ferocity of his disposition -manifested itself in attempts to bite the children. It was -ordinarily fed on bread and milk. - -This man had been settled here two years, but had not "made a -crop," having subsisted himself and his family by hunting, wherein -he had been very successful. In the preceding autumn he had killed -seventy deer and fifty bears. He took great pleasure in relating -his hunting adventures, particularly his engagements with bears. -One bear which he had killed, he said, weighed seven hundred -pounds; but in this instance he was probably mistaken. He had seen -in the winter of 1818, a large herd of bisons near the Grand Pass; -but they had been driven down by the severity of the weather, and -were not ordinarily to be found within the limits of his hunting -excursions. During the severe wintry weather, he affirmed that -bears make for themselves a shelter of brushwood, into which they -creep to secure themselves from the cold. - -From May until July the female of the common deer conceals her -young whilst she goes to feed. It is at this time that the hunters -take advantage of the maternal feelings of the animal to secure -their prey. They conceal themselves and imitate the cry of the -fawn. The solicitude of the parent animal for her young overcomes -her usual care for her own safety; and believing she hears the -cries of her offspring in distress, she hurries toward the spot -where the hunter lies concealed, and falls an easy prey.[134] - -Mr. Say and his companions were very politely received by Col. -Chambers, then at Fort Osage. The rifle regiment was encamped -here, waiting the arrival of the contractor's boats.[135] - -Fort Osage was established in 1808, by Gov. Lewis. It stands on an -elevated bluff, commanding a beautiful view of the river, both -above and below. The {97} works are a stockade, of an irregular -pentagonal form, with strong log pickets perforated with -loop-holes; two block houses are placed at opposite angles; one of -them, however, flanks one of its curtains too obliquely to be of -much service in defending it. There is also a small bastion at a -third angle. Within are two series of buildings for quarters, -store-houses, &c. The position of the fort is not a secure one, on -account of numerous ravines and declivities that would cover an -enemy within a short distance; but is such, that boats ascending -or descending the river must be exposed to its fire. The stream in -the middle of the river, and on the opposite side, is so -remarkably rapid, that it is in vain to contend against it with -the oar or paddle; it is, therefore, usually necessary for -ascending boats to enter the eddy, which brings them within -musket-shot of the fort.[136] - -At the time of our journey, Fort Osage, which, according to our -estimate, is one hundred and forty-two miles, by the course of the -river, above Charaton, was the extreme frontier of the settlements. -For a great distance below, the establishments of the white -settlers were confined to the immediate banks of the Missouri. The -inhabitants of this frontier are mostly emigrants from Tennessee, -and are hospitable to strangers. Many of them are possessed of -considerable wealth. In the inhabitants of the new States and -Territories there is a manifest propensity, particularly in the -males, to remove westward, for which it is not easy to account. -The women, having their attention directed almost exclusively to -domestic pursuits, form local attachments, and establish habits, -which are not interrupted without occasioning some disquietude. -They are at first discontented in their new abode; in a few weeks -they become reconciled, but less attached than to their former -home; and, at length, by the habit of frequent migration, they {98} -acquire the same fondness for an adventurous unsettled life, as -characterises the men. - -Daniel Boon, whose history is connected with that of all the new -settlements from Kentucky westward, answered to an inquiry -concerning the cause of his frequent change of residence, "I think -it time to remove when I can no longer fall a tree for fuel, so -that its top will lie within a few yards of the door of my -cabin."[137] The charms of that mode of life, wherein the -artificial wants and the uneasy restraints inseparable from a -crowded population are not known, wherein we feel ourselves -dependent immediately and solely on the bounty of nature, and the -strength of our own arm, will not be appreciated by those to whom -they are known only from description, though they never fail to -make an impression upon such as have acquired a knowledge of them -from experience. A settler on the Missouri observed to us, that -the land he at present occupied was not better than that he had -left in Tennessee; but he did not wish to spend all his life in -one place, and he had learned from experience, that a man might -live in greater ease and freedom where his neighbours were not -very numerous. - -A person upwards of sixty years old, who had recently arrived at -one of the highest settlements of the Missouri, inquired of us -very particularly of the river Platte, and of the quality of the -lands about its source. We discovered that he had the most serious -intention of removing with his family to that river. On the last -day of July and the first of August, about two inches of rain -fell: the prevailing winds were from the north-east; but the -superior strata of the atmosphere carried clouds of different -descriptions in different, and sometimes opposite directions. The -moon soon after rising, passed behind a long dense body of cirrus -clouds, that floated over the eastern horizon. Long and distinct -radii were soon after seen converging to a point fifteen or twenty -of {99} the moon's diameters to the eastward of its disk. Such is -the refracting power of the aqueous vapors sometimes suspended in -the atmosphere. - -Horizontal strata of sandstone and compact lime stone, are -disclosed in the cliffs on both sides the valley of the Missouri. -These rocks contain numerous remains of caryophilla, productus, -and terebratulæ.[138] - -Some days passed after our arrival at Fort Osage, before the -weather admitted our making the astronomical observations -necessary to ascertain its position. The mean of the results of -several observations of the meridian altitude of the sun's lower -limb gave 39° 9´ 33-1/2´´ north, for the latitude of the place. - - -FOOTNOTES: - - [119] In a letter addressed to Mr. Frazer, an extract - from which was published in the tenth volume of the London - Journal of Literature and the Arts, Dr. Baldwin mentions - having discovered near Monte Video, in South America, the - _Solanum Tuberosum_ in its native locality. Mr. Lambert, - however, considered this plant as the _Solanum Commersoni_ of - Dunal; and though it produces tuberous roots, and in other - respects makes a near approach to S. tuberosum, he was not - satisfied of their identity, and remarks that it is yet to be - proved, that this is the stock from which the common potatoe - has been derived. It appears, however, that the original - locality of the solanum tuberosum has been ascertained by Ruiz - and Pavon, after having escaped the observation of Humboldt - and Bonpland.--JAMES. - - - [120] Frederick Pursh was born in Siberia, in 1774. Coming to - the United States at the age of twenty-five, he spent twelve - years in botanical studies, the results of which were published - in England under the title _Flora Americae Septentrionalis, or - a Systematic Arrangement and Description of the Plants of North - America_ (London, 2 vols., 1814). Pursh died at Montreal in - 1820, while preparing a flora of Canada. - - For sketch of Muhlenberg, see F. A. Michaux's _Travels_, in our - volume iii, note 9. - - Aimé Bonpland (1773-1858) was a French scientist and traveller. - It has been said that the expedition of Humboldt and Bonpland - in tropical America (1799-1804) "laid the foundation of the - sciences of physical geography and meteorology in their larger - bearings." The fruit of their joint labors appeared at Paris - in 1807, under the title _Voyage aux régions équinoxiales du - nouveau continent_.--ED. - - - [121] Above Cote Sans Dessein, we saw frequently the Juglans - nigra, and J. pubescens, called white hickory; also a species of - Cratægus, which, though sometimes seen in Pennsylvania, appears - to be hitherto undescribed. Its fruit is large, yellow when - ripe, and of an agreeable flavour. On the evening of the 11th we - anchored opposite a steep bank, which I was assisted to climb; - but night came on, and put an end to our herbarizations before I - had the opportunity to collect any thing interesting. The soil - here is a dark vegetable mould, at least five feet in depth, and - little intermixed with sand. I ascended the same bank on the - following morning, but found nothing except a species of Carex - that I do not recollect to have seen before. - - After getting under weigh, we passed high calcareous bluffs on - the left side of the river, covered with timber, and reminding - us of the deep umbrageous forests within the tropics. - - Franklin, July 15th. Portulacca sativa, Solanum nigrum, - Urticapumila, Datura strammonium, and Phytolacca decandra, - occur by the road side. Blackberries were now ripe, but not - well-flavoured. Campanula Americana, the large Vernonia - mentioned at Cote Sans Dessein, now flowering. - - Some plants were brought in, among which we distinguished the - Monarda fistulosa, Achillea millefolia, Cacalia atriplicifolia, - called "horse-mint," Queria canadensis, Menispermum lyoni, - Verbena urticifolia. The Annona triloba is frequent about - Franklin; also the Laurus benzoin, and the Symphoria now - in flower, the Rhus glabrum, Cercis canadensis, Ampelousis - quinquefolia, Eupatorium purpureum, in flower. Cucubalus - stellatus, still flowering. The Prickly-fruited Æsculus has - nearly ripened its nut, Zanthoxylon clava herculis, in fruit, a - "wild gourd" not in flower. - - July 26th. The Gleditschia is a small tree here; Geum album, - Myosotis virginiana, Amaranthus hybridus, Erigeron canadense, - Solanum carolinianum, very luxuriant and still flowering. The - leaf of the Tilia glabra I found to measure thirteen inches in - length, and eleven in breadth. Bignonia radicans, Dioscorea - villosa, a Helianthus with a leaf margined with spines, the - narrow-leaved Brachystemum, the Lyatris pycnostachia, Rudbeckia - purpurea, and various others in flower. Juglans porcina and - cinerea, Ostrya virginica, Rhus copallinum.--August 4th. Dr. - Lowry informed me he has seen Pyrus coronaria, forty feet in - height, in the forests about Franklin. He showed me a Rudbeckia - about three feet high with a cone of dark purple flowers, - probably a new species. - - 5th. Eupatorium hieracifolium beginning to flower, Menispermum - canadense, here called "sarsaparilla," its slender yellow roots - being substituted for that article. - - 6th. A Mimulus is found here resembling M. ringens, but the - leaves are not sessile; peduncle very short, flowers large, - pink-coloured, stem acutely quadrangular; Campanula Americana, - three and a half feet high.--JAMES. - - - [122] The name of this river has undergone many changes, - appearing as Charleton, Charlatan, Chératon, Charliton, - Chareton, and Charlotte; the form Chariton has now become fixed. - The origin is unknown. - - The town here mentioned, two miles north of Glasgow, was laid - out by Duff Green, a famous Jacksonian politician, and other - associates. The growth was for a few years so rapid that one - settler exchanged St. Louis lots for an equal number in - Chariton; but the location proved unhealthful, and was - abandoned in 1829. Monticello, on higher ground, a mile away, - and Thorntonsburg, at the mouth of the Chariton, were founded - in succession, but likewise disappeared. Glasgow, laid out in - 1836, was the first permanent town in the vicinity.--ED. - - - [123] The Des Moines River. The Illinois Indians called their - habitat Moingona. The French contracted this to les Moins, and - called this stream la Rivière des Moins. Later the name became - associated with the Trappist monks (moines), and by a play on - words was changed to la Rivière des Moines.--ED. - - - [124] On the Sauk and Foxes, see Bradbury's _Travels_, in our - volume v, note 21. For the Iowa, see Brackenridge's _Journal_, - in our volume vi, note 13.--ED. - - - [125] Changes in the river have obliterated the channel here - called the Cut-Off.--ED. - - - [126] The coal-fields of Missouri have an area of about - twenty-six thousand square miles; a line drawn southwest - from the mouth of the Des Moines River to Vernon County - roughly bounds the district. Northwest of this line every - county contains coal, and there are outlying patches on the - southeast.--ED. - - - [127] Arrow Rock (the Pièrre à flèche of early French explorers) - stands on the west side of the river, in Saline County. The - first settlements in the county were made in the neighboring - bottoms, and the earliest ferry west of Franklin crossed the - river at this point. The rock gave its name to a town founded - in 1829, which for a time was the county seat and an important - shipping point.--ED. - - - [128] Le Mine (Lamine, or La Mine) River empties into - the Missouri seven miles above Booneville, Cooper County. - Renaudière named the stream Rivière à la Mine, in 1723. It is - about a hundred and thirty miles long. Salt Fork, here called - "saline fork," the principal tributary, crosses Saline county - roughly parallel with the Missouri.--ED. - - - [129] In 1720 Philip Renault, director-general of mines of the - French colonies in America, sent prospecting parties from Fort - Chartres, into Missouri and Arkansas, to seek gold and silver. - These curious "diggings" are by some supposed to have been made - by his men. Charles Lockhart, mentioned in the text, employed a - number of men in 1819 in digging over some of these old pits, - but without making any important discoveries.--ED. - - - [130] Grand Pass received its name from the fact that the Osage - trace, connecting farther west with the Santa Fé trail, here - followed the narrow divide between Salt Fork and the Missouri - bottom. This "pass" is about a mile and a half long, and in one - place so narrow that a stone can be thrown across. A hotel was - built here in 1835, and a small village now occupies the spot. - For a short time during a flood in 1875, part of the water of - Salt Fork flowed across the divide.--ED. - - - [131] The entire courses of both the Tabeau and Little Tabeau - are within Lafayette County. The mouth of the larger is near the - boundary between Ray and Carroll counties. The name is sometimes - erroneously spelled Tabo and Tebo.--ED. - - - [132] For derivation of this name, see Brackenridge's _Journal_, - in our volume vi, note 14.--ED. - - - [133] This stream debouches at the boundary between Jackson and - Lafayette counties, south of the Missouri. Its name is usually - shortened to Fire Creek. Lewis and Clark applied the name Fire - Prairie Creek to a stream which entered from the north. No - stream nearer than Clear Creek, or Fishing Creek, five miles - above Fire Creek, answers their description.--ED. - - - [134] A variety of this species, the Cervus Virginianus, three - specimens of which occurred at Engineer cantonment, had all - the feet white near the hoofs, and extending to them on the - hind part from a little above the spurious hoofs. This white - extremity was divided upon the sides of the foot by the general - colour of the leg, which extended down near to the hoof, leaving - a white triangle in front, of which the point was elevated - rather higher than the spurious hoofs. The black mark upon the - lower lip, rather behind the middle of the sides, was strongly - noted-- - - ft. in. - Total length, exclusive of hair, at tip of tail 5 4-3/4 - Ear, from the upper part of the head 0 6-1/2 - Tail, from lateral base, exclusive of the hair 0 9-1/2 - Hind foot, from tip of os calcus to tip of toe 1 6-1/4 - Fore arm 1 11-7/8 - Weight, in February, 115lbs. - - This species, common as it is, was never figured, nor indeed - very well described, until the year 1819, when it appeared in - the valuable work of Messrs. Geoffroy and F. Cuvier (Hist. - Nat. des Mammiferes, 2d liv.) Its highest northern range is - Canada, in North America; and it is found as far south as the - river Orinoco, in South America. - - This species is leanest in February and March, and in best - condition in October and November. The rutting season - commences in November, and continues about one month, ceasing - generally about the middle of December. During this season the - neck of the male becomes much dilated. - - The fawn, towards autumn, loses its spots; and the hair - becomes grayish, and lengthens in the winter. In this state - the deer is said by the hunters to be _in the gray_. This coat - is shed in the latter part of May and beginning of June, and - is then substituted by the reddish coat. In this state the - animal is said to be _in the red_. Towards the last of August - the old bucks begin to change to the dark bluish colour; the - doe commences this change a week or two later. In this state - they are said to be _in the blue_. This coat gradually - lengthens until it comes again to the _gray_. The skin is said - to be toughest in the _red_, thickest in the _blue_, and - thinnest in the _gray_. The blue skin is most valuable. - - The horns are cast in January. They lose the velvet the last of - September and beginning of October. About the middle of March, - Mr. Peale shot a large doe, in the matrix of which were three - perfectly formed young, of the size of a rabbit.--JAMES. - - - [135] This rifle regiment, under Colonel Talbot Chambers, was a - contingent of the troops assigned to the Yellowstone expedition. - See preface.--ED. - - - [136] Fort Osage was surrounded by a tract six miles square. It - was the only government trading factory west of the Mississippi. - The post was occupied at intervals until 1827, when it was - superseded by Fort Leavenworth and permanently abandoned. The - site was near that of the present town of Sibley, Jackson - County, which was named in honor of George C. Sibley (see volume - v of our series, note 36), who was (1818-25) government agent at - Fort Osage. The distance above Chariton River, by the government - survey of the Missouri, is a hundred and twenty miles. See our - volume v, note 31.--ED. - - - [137] A sketch of Boone as a Missouri pioneer will be found in - Bradbury's _Travels_, in our volume v, note 16.--ED. - - - [138] From Fort Osage. - - _Productus spinosus_, SAY.--Longitudinally and transversely - subequally striated, the transverse striæ somewhat larger than - the others; a few remote short spines, or acute tubercles, on - the surface, arising from the longitudinal striæ. - - Breadth an inch and a half; the striæ are somewhat indistinct-- - as in No. 5. - - _Productus incurvus_, SAY.--Shell much compressed; hinge margin - nearly rectilinear; surface of the valves longitudinally - striated; convex valve longitudinally indented in the middle; - the beak prominent and incurved at tip; opposite valve with a - longitudinal prominence in the middle; the beak incurved into - the hinge beneath the other beak, and distant from it. - - Width more than 2-2/5 inches. A few univalves also occurred, but - they were so extremely imperfect that their genera could not be - made out. - - A dark-coloured carbonate of lime, containing small Terebratulæ - like the T. ovata of Sowerby, but less than half as long. - - No. 1. a mass of carbonate of lime, containing segments of - encrinites in small ossicula. - - 6. A Caryophylla of a single star, about four inches long, of an - irregularly transversely undulated surface, imperfect at each - end, but seems to have been attached at base. Near the base it - is bent at an angle of about 45 degrees. - - Some small and young specimens of the Terebratula, like T. - subundata of Sowerby. - - Miliolites centralis. SAY. - - 12. Astrea. A species of very minute alveoles. From the state - of the petrifaction no radii are perceptible, so that the - genus is not determinable. - - Saltworks near Arrow Rock. Columnar segments of the Encrinus. - - Inferior portion of the head of A. Pentramea. SAY. - - Segments of the column of an oval encrinus, much narrower in - the middle than the oval vertebra of an encrinite represented - by Parkinson, Vol. 2. pl. 13. f. 40.--resembling those of the - genus _Platycrinites_ of Miller.--JAMES. - - - - -{100} CHAPTER VI - - Mouth of the Konzas--Arrival at Wolf River--Journey by land - from Fort Osage to the village of the Konzas. - - -Wishing to extend our examinations between Fort Osage and the -Konzas river, also between that river and the Platte, a party was -detached from the steam-boat, with instructions to cross the -Konzas at the Konza village, thence to traverse the country by the -nearest route to the Platte, and to descend that river to the -Missouri. The party consisted of Mr. Say, to whom the command was -entrusted, Messrs. Jessup, Peale, and Seymour, Cadet Swift, Mr. J. -Dougherty, and five soldiers. They were furnished with three -pack-horses, and a supply of provisions for ten days. Thus -organized and equipped, they commenced their march on the -afternoon of August 6th, accompanied by Major Biddle and his -servant. - -After their departure, the steam-boat was delayed a few days at -Fort Osage. On the ninth, a part of the troops destined for the -Missouri service arrived in keel-boats. Colonel Chambers, with the -principal part of his regiment, were still at Fort Osage, awaiting -the arrival of supplies of provisions now daily expected. - -On the following day we resumed our journey, and were accompanied -about ten miles by Mr. Sibley, agent of Indian affairs, and his -lady, to whom the gentlemen of the party were indebted for -numerous hospitable attentions during their stay at Fort Osage; -also by Captain Bissel, and Lieutenant Pentland,[139] of the rifle -regiment, who returned in a skiff. Our progress was much impeded -by shoals and rapids in the {101} river, but we succeeded in -passing these without warping, and anchored at sunset, having -ascended eighteen miles. - -Between Fort Osage and the mouth of the Konzas river, a distance -of about fifty-two miles, are many rapid places in the Missouri. -We were able to ascend all these, except one, without towing. It -was with some difficulty we supplied our furnace with wood of a -suitable quality. The forests of the Missouri, though limited in -extent, are deep and shady, and though the atmosphere is -perceptibly less humid than in the forests of the Mississippi, -fallen trees, whose wood is soft and porous like that of the -linden and cotton tree, absorb much moisture from the ground. It -was only when we were so fortunate as to find a dry mulberry, ash, -or cotton-wood still standing, that we could procure fuel well -adapted to our purpose. Much time was of necessity expended in -cutting and bringing on board our supplies of this article, and -the additional delay occasioned by the numerous obstacles to the -easy navigation of the river, made our ascent somewhat tedious. - -The mouth of the Konzas river was so filled with mud, deposited by -the late flood in the Missouri, as scarcely to admit the passage -of our boat, though with some difficulty we ascended that river -about a mile, and then returning dropped anchor opposite its -mouth. The spring freshets subside in the Konzas, the Osage, and -all those tributaries that do not derive their sources from the -Rocky Mountains, before the Missouri reaches its greatest fulness; -consequently the waters of the latter river, charged with mud, -flow into the mouths of its tributaries, and there becoming nearly -stagnant, deposit an extensive accumulation of mud and slime. The -Konzas river has a considerable resemblance to the Missouri; but -its current is more moderate, and the water less turbid, except at -times of high floods. Its valley, like that of the Missouri, has a -deep and fertile soil, bearing similar {102} forests of -cotton-wood, sycamore, &c., interspersed with meadows; but, in -ascending, trees become more and more scattered, and at length -disappear almost entirely, the country, at its sources, being one -immense prairie.[140] - -We sailed from the mouth of the Konzas on the 13th of August. -Numerous sand-bars occur in the Missouri above that point, and -these occasioned us some delay. The water having fallen several -feet, we had less velocity of current to contend against, but -found it more necessary to keep in the channel, and could not so -often take advantage of the eddy currents below the points and -along the shore. - -A party of white hunters were encamped on the Missouri, not far -above the Konzas. In the rudeness of their deportment and dress, -they appeared to us to surpass the savages themselves. They are -usually the most abandoned and worthless among the whites who -adopt the life of wandering hunters: frequently they are men whose -crimes have excluded them from society. - -Eighteen miles above the Konzas river, and five above the Little -Platte, is a large island, which, from its rhombic form, has -received the name of Diamond island. The principal channel is on -the north side. It is difficult to pass, being much obstructed by -sand-bars. Four miles above this is a small group, called the -Three Islands; and two miles further another cluster, known as the -Four Islands, and by the French as the Isles des Parcs, or Field -Islands. At each of these places, as in the neighbourhood of -islands generally, the navigation is difficult.[141] - -The site of an old village of the Konzas, and the remains of a -fortification erected by the French, were pointed out a few miles -below Isle au Vache. This island, which lies about one hundred -miles above Fort Osage, was the wintering post of Capt. Martin's -detachment, destined to proceed in advance of the troops ordered -to the Missouri. Captain Martin, {103} with three companies of the -rifle regiment, left Bellefontain in September 1818, and arrived -at Isle au Vache in October, with the expectation of resuming his -march as early in the following spring as the weather would -permit. But not having received the necessary supplies of -provisions as anticipated, they had been compelled to remain till -the time of our arrival, subsisting themselves principally by -hunting. Fortunately this part of the country afforded so much -game, that a competent supply was easily obtained. Between two and -three thousand deer, beside great numbers of bears, turkies, &c., -had been taken. The arrival of the boats, laden with provisions, -now furnished them the means of continuing their ascent, and they -had the prospect of departing within a few days.[142] - -Previous to our departure from Fort Osage, Major O'Fallon, the -Indian agent who accompanied us, had sent a messenger across the -country by land to the Konzas nation of Indians, residing on the -Konzas river, summoning their chiefs to a council, to be held at -Isle au Vache, on the arrival of the Western Engineer.[143] -Agreeably to the message sent by an interpreter, the Indians had -been expected on the 18th, but did not arrive until the 23d of -August, having been absent, when the messenger reached their -village, on a hunting excursion. As soon as they received the -invitation, they repaired with all convenient speed to the -appointed place, having sent runners before, to apprise us of -their approach. - -The interpreter, who returned with them, brought intelligence of -the safe arrival of Mr. Say and his party, and of their kind -reception at the Konza village. We were sorry to learn that Mr. -Say had been in ill health, and had not entirely recovered. - -On the 24th, the chiefs and principal men of the Konzas, to the -number of one hundred and fifty, assembled under an arbour -prepared for their reception. The Indian agent addressed them in a -speech {104} adapted to the occasion, setting forth the causes of -complaint which they had given by their repeated insults and -depredations upon the whites, giving them notice of the approach -of a military force, of sufficient strength to chastise their -insolence, and advising them to seize the present opportunity of -averting the vengeance they deserved by proper concessions, and by -their future good behaviour to conciliate those, whose friendship -they would have so much occasion to desire. - -The replies of the chiefs were simple and short, expressive of -their conviction of the justice of the complaints made against -them, and of their acquiescence in the terms of reconciliation -proposed by the agent. There were present at this council one -hundred and sixty-one Konzas, including chiefs and warriors, and -thirteen Osages. The most distinguished men were Na-he-da-ba, or -_Long Neck_, one of the principal chiefs. Ka-he-ga-wa-ta-ning-ga, -_Little Chief_, second in rank. Shon-ga-ne-ga, who had been one of -the principal chiefs, but had resigned his authority in favour of -Ka-he-ga-wa-ta-ning-ga. Wa-ha-che-ra, _Big Knife_, a partizan or -leader of war parties. Wom-pa-wa-ra, _He who scares all men_, more -commonly known to the whites as Plume Blanche, or White Plume, a -man rising rapidly in importance, and apparently destined to -become the leader of the nation.[144] In addition to the Indians, -the officers of the garrison and a few gentlemen were present at -the council. The ceremonies were commenced by a discharge of -ordnance from the steamboat; the flags were hoisted in their -appropriate places, a council flag being placed near the chair -occupied by the agent. The Indians appeared gratified at the -displays made on the occasion, but their attention was more -particularly aroused by the exhibition of a few rockets and -shells, fired for their entertainment. At our departure, which, on -account of the Indians, was delayed until the 25th of August, many -{105} of them were present, and manifested some surprise at -witnessing the operations of the steam-boat.[145] - -It was thought advisable to make some addition to our force at -Isle au Vache, as we should soon be in advance of the troops on -the Missouri, and might be exposed to insults and depredations, -from some of the numerous tribes of Indians. Accordingly, on -application to Colonel Morgan, a boat and fifteen men, under the -command of Lieutenant Fields, were detailed for this duty, and -directed to regulate their movements agreeably to the orders of -the commanding officer of the exploring expedition.[146] These men -were furnished with provisions for sixty days, and having -embarked on board a keel-boat, called the General Smith, they -sailed in company with the Western Engineer. A favourable wind -springing up, we proceeded in the course of the day about -twenty-three miles, and encamped at night near the entrance of a -small stream, called Independence Creek. A little above, and on -the south side of the river, is the site of an old Konza town, -formerly called the village of the Twenty-four.[147] Above Cow -Island the Missouri is more serpentine in direction than below, -and the difficulties of the navigation we found by no means -diminished as we ascended. The bed of the river in many places is -broad, and the water distributed into small channels separated by -sand-bars. About fifty miles above Cow Island we passed a spot -that had lately been occupied as a hunting camp by Captain Martin, -who had been here to procure the requisite provisions for the -subsistence of his party. - -At the Yellow Banks we found the bluffs elevated about one hundred -and fifty feet above the surface of the valley.[148] Barometric -observations, several times repeated, gave nearly the same result -at some points below. One hundred and fifty feet may, therefore, -be assumed as the medium depth of the immediate valley of the -Missouri; its aggregate width, for the {106} first five hundred -miles above the Mississippi, may be estimated at about three -miles. The corresponding appearances in the strata of the opposite -sides of this valley, as well as its entire form and character, -indicate it to have been formed by the river. But far more than -that vast body of soil and of rocky strata, which formerly filled -the space now occupied by the immediate valley of the river, has -been removed by the Missouri. From the summit of the bluffs there -is a sloping ascent towards the interior of the country; and it is -probable the aggregate elevation of the great plains is not less -than three hundred feet above the surface of the river. If we -admit that this great valley, with its numerous ramifications, has -resulted from the operation of currents, wearing down and -transporting to the ocean the solid materials of the earth's -surface, it would appear necessary still farther to acknowledge -that this channel was once much deeper than at present, for we -usually meet with thick alluvial depositions covering the rocks -that line the bottom of the Missouri valley. The manifest tendency -of the operation of the Mississippi, at this time, upon its -valley, is to fill up rather than to excavate; but it may be -doubted whether this is equally, or even to any degree, the case -with the Missouri. The aggregate mass of alluvion within the -valley of the Missouri is, undoubtedly, moving downwards, with -considerable rapidity; for the quantity of earthy matter carried -into the Mississippi is, at all times, very great. In their -descent the alluvial substances are alternately deposited and -swept away, as by the variations in the direction of the current -any particular point is, from time to time, either exposed to, or -sheltered from, the action of the stream. - -About eighty-seven miles above Cow Island is the mouth of the -Nodowa, a river of some importance, being about seventy yards -wide, and navigable to some distance. It is not usually seen in -passing, being {107} concealed by the island called the Great -Nodowa, which is about five miles long, and covered with heavy -forests. The lands on the Nodowa are of an excellent quality.[149] - -On the 1st of September, we were under the necessity of remaining -encamped near the mouth of Wolf river,[150] that some repairs -might be made to the steam engine. Here we sent out some persons -to hunt, who after a short time returned, having taken a deer, a -turkey, and three swarms of bees, which afforded us about half a -barrel of honey. On the trees which margin the river, we -frequently observed a fine species of squirrel, which possesses -all the graceful activity of the common gray squirrel, as it leaps -from bough to bough.[151] After our machinery was adjusted, we -resumed our ascent, and had proceeded a short distance, when we -were hailed from shore by Mr. Dougherty, who had accompanied Mr. -Say's party across the country. We were not a little surprised at -this unexpected meeting, and were apprehensive some disaster had -befallen the detachment. - -Mr. Dougherty being received on board, informed us that Mr. Peale, -Mr. Swift, Mr. Seymour, Chaboneau the Indian interpreter,[152] and -one of the soldiers, were at a little distance in the rear, having -accompanied him across the country, from Cow Island, where they -had arrived five days after our departure. Mr. Say and Mr. Jessup -had been left sick at Cow Island. We encamped immediately, to give -those who were near an opportunity of joining us. It will now be -necessary to return to the time of Mr. Say's departure from Fort -Osage, and briefly to trace the progress of his detachment to the -place where a rencontre with a war-party of Pawnees frustrated -their design, and made it necessary for them to rejoin the -steam-boat. - -Mr. Say's detachment, consisting of twelve men and a boy, -furnished with three pack-horses for the {108} transportation of -baggage, departed from Fort Osage on the evening of August 6th. -Their route lay westward across the woodless plains about the -sources of the Hay Cabin, Blue Water, and Warreruza Creek. The -cliffs along the Blue Water are naked perpendicular rocks. In the -vallies numerous Indian encampments occurred, which appeared not -long since to have been occupied. These were most frequently seen -at the points, where the streams making almost a complete circuit, -and nearly enclosing a small tract of ground, afforded an -important protection against the approach of an enemy. The -prairies about the head waters of the Warreruza abound in game. -Here ravens were first seen by the party, and numbers of large -banded rattlesnakes were killed. The blowing flies swarmed in -inconceivable numbers, attacking not only the provision of the -party, but depositing their eggs upon the blankets, clothing, and -even on the furniture of the horses. On the 11th of August they -arrived at some elevated ridges, from which they overlooked an -extensive country, and could trace the whole course of the -Wahrengeho, or Full Creek, diverging slightly from the Konzas, and -could readily perceive timber upon several of its head branches. -The lands between the head waters of Full Creek and the Konzas are -not so good as those about the sources of the Warreruza, and -produce less timber. The settlement of this region will be much -retarded on account of the want of trees, these being confined to -the margins of the watercourses, while tracts of valuable soil, of -many miles in extent, have not a single tree or bush upon them. -The soil is, however, well adapted to the culture of some of our -most valuable forest trees. The sugar-maple, and several of the -most important species of carya, the oaks, the tulip-tree, and the -linden, would unquestionably succeed.[153] - -In consequence of the excessive heat of the weather, the great -fatigues of the party, and their constant {109} exposure in the -open plains, the health of several of them began to be impaired. -The high and coarse grasses, which now covered the plains, greatly -impeded their progress, and very rapidly destroyed their clothing -and mockasins. Their journey was, therefore, slow and laborious. -On the night of the 13th they encamped on the bank of the Konzas, -having travelled some distance parallel to the course of that -river. The next day several of the party, already much debilitated, -began to be afflicted with dysentery; some accidents also occurred -to retard their progress, and on that and the following day they -advanced only two miles. On the 16th they marched about fifteen -miles, and encamped on the bank of the Konzas. Being now in doubt -as to the situation of the Konza village, and the illness of some -of the party continuing, they determined to remain encamped, while -some persons should be sent out to reconnoitre the country, and -discover, if possible, whether that part of the river at which -they had arrived, was above or below the village they designed -to visit.[154] The Konzas river, in this part, bears the closest -resemblance to the Missouri, both in the turbulence and rapidity of -its current, and the aspect of the country along its banks; it is, -however, so shoal as at almost any point to admit of being forded -without difficulty. - -Willow islands, moving sand-bars, and _falling-in_ banks, are as -frequent as in the Missouri. The line of forest which skirts the -banks, including the bed of the river, is about half a mile wide, -but not entirely uninterrupted. The course of the river is -remarkably serpentine, forming woodland points alternately on both -sides. - -After crossing and recrossing the river, and extending their -search in every direction, they had the satisfaction at last to -fall in with a beaten path leading up the river, and which their -guide and interpreter was confident would conduct them to the -Konza village. - -{110} On the morning of the 19th, they passed across a wide and -fertile prairie to the Vermillion, a stream which enters the -Konzas from the north-west. It is four feet deep, and about twenty -yards wide.[155] Here they halted in the middle of the day, and -dined on the flesh of a black wolf, the only game they were able -to procure. - -About Vermillion Creek are some open forests of oak, not extending -far on either side. The trees are from fifteen to twenty-five feet -high, and from one foot to eighteen inches in diameter, standing -at a considerable distance from each other. - -On the day following, the Konza village was descried at a -distance. The detachment immediately halted to arrange their -dress, and inspect their firearms. This was thought the more -necessary, as no party of whites had visited the village since a -number of the Konzas had received a whipping at Isle au Vache, and -it was a matter of doubt, whether the party would meet a friendly -reception. - -As they approached the village, they perceived the tops of the -lodges red with the crowds of natives; the chiefs and warriors -came rushing out on horseback, painted and decorated, and followed -by great numbers on foot. Mr. Say and his party were received -with the utmost cordiality, and conducted into the village by the -chiefs, who went before and on each side, to protect them from the -encroachments of the crowd. On entering the village the crowd -readily gave way before the party, but followed them into the -lodge assigned to them, and completely and most densely filled the -spacious apartment, with the exception only of a small space -opposite to the entrance, where the party seated themselves on the -beds, still protected from the pressure of the crowd by the -chiefs, who took their seats on the ground immediately before -them. After the ceremony of smoking with the latter, the object -which the party had in view in passing through their territories -was explained to them, and {111} seemed to be perfectly -satisfactory. At the lodge of the principal chief they were -regaled with jerked bison meat and boiled corn, and were -afterwards invited to six feasts in immediate succession. -Chaboneau and the old Frenchman, who had been despatched from Fort -Osage, to summon the Konzas to meet the agent at Isle au Vache, -had arrived some days previous; but the nation being at that time -absent on a hunting excursion, the interpreters, after reaching -the village, had proceeded immediately into the plains in pursuit -of them. At the time of the arrival of our detachment, the village -was in confusion, the hunters having lately returned, and being -then engaged in preparations for the journey to Isle au Vache. Two -runners were despatched to give notice to Major O'Fallon, that his -summons had been received; and at the same time the chiefs and -principal warriors departed for the place appointed. Before his -departure, the principal chief was careful to appoint a fit person -to attend Mr. Say's party, and arrangements were made to promote -their comfort and convenience, while they should remain at the -village. - -Many reports had been circulated among the Konzas respecting the -invitation to council their chiefs had received. They were -conscious of having recently offended, by firing on Major -O'Fallon, and by insulting and plundering several soldiers of -Captain Martin's command. For these offences they had been in some -measure punished at the time, Major O'Fallon having returned their -fire from his boat, and not entirely without effect, as was -supposed; several also had been flogged by the orders of Captain -Martin; yet they did not consider themselves secure from the -vengeance of the whites. Many believed that at the time of the -anticipated council, barrels of gunpowder were to be placed in the -earth to destroy them at once. The two runners, who had been -despatched, quarrelled before they had gone far; one saying, all -{112} the things that had been told them by the interpreters were -lies, for which assertion he was struck to the ground by his -companion. In this situation they were found by the advancing -chiefs. Finally, a dispute happened between the chiefs themselves -respecting rank, in consequence of which ten or twelve of them -returned to the village. - -Mr. Say, who spent some time among the Konzas, gives, in his -notes, the following account of that nation: - - "The approach to the village is over a fine level prairie of - considerable extent; passing which, you ascend an abrupt bank - of the height of ten feet to a second level, on which the - village is situate in the distance, within about one-fourth of - a mile of the river. It consists of about a hundred and twenty - lodges, placed as closely together as convenient, and - destitute of any regularity of arrangement. The ground area - of each lodge is circular, and is excavated to the depth of - from one to three feet, and the general form of the exterior - may be denominated hemispheric. - - "The lodge in which we reside is larger than any other in the - town, and being that of a grand chief, it serves as a - council-house for the nation. The roof is supported by two - series of pillars, or rough vertical posts, forked at top for - the reception of the transverse connecting pieces of each - series; twelve of these pillars form the outer series, placed - in a circle; and eight longer ones the inner series, also - describing a circle; the outer wall, of rude frame-work, - placed at a proper distance from the exterior series of - pillars, is five or six feet high. Poles, as thick as the leg - at base, rest with their butts upon the wall, extending on the - cross-pieces, which are upheld by the pillars of the two - series, and are of sufficient length to reach nearly to the - summit. These poles are very numerous, and, agreeably to the - position which we have indicated, they are placed all round in - a radiating {113} manner, and support the roof like rafters. - Across these are laid long and slender sticks or twigs, - attached parallel to each other by means of bark cord; these - are covered by mats made of long grass, or reeds, or with the - bark of trees; the whole is then covered completely over with - earth, which, near the ground, is banked up to the eaves. A - hole is permitted to remain in the middle of the roof to give - exit to the smoke. Around the walls of the interior, a - continuous series of mats are suspended; these are of neat - workmanship, composed of a soft reed united by bark cord, in - straight or undulated lines, between which lines of black - paint sometimes occur. The bedsteads are elevated to the - height of a common seat from the ground, and are about six - feet wide; they extend in an uninterrupted line around - three-fourths of the circumference of the apartment, and are - formed in the simplest manner of numerous sticks, or slender - pieces of wood resting at their ends on cross pieces, which - are supported by short notched or forked posts, driven into - the ground; bison-skins supply them with a comfortable - bedding. Several medicine or mystic bags are carefully - attached to the mats of the wall; these are cylindrical, and - neatly bound up; several reeds are usually placed upon them, - and a human scalp serves for their fringe and tassels. Of - their contents we know nothing. - - "The fire-place is a simple shallow cavity, in the centre of - the apartment, with an upright and a projecting arm for the - support of the culinary apparatus. The latter is very simple - in kind, and limited in quantity, consisting of a brass - kettle, an iron pot, and wooden bowls and spoons; each person, - male as well as female, carries a large knife in the girdle of - the breech cloth behind, which is used at their meals, and - sometimes for self-defence. During our stay with these Indians - they ate four or five times each day, invariably supplying us - with the best pieces, or choice {114} parts, before they - attempted to taste the food themselves. - - "They commonly placed before us a sort of soup, composed of - maize of the present season, of that description which, having - undergone a certain preparation, is appropriately named sweet - corn, boiled in water, and enriched with a few slices of bison - meat, grease, and some beans, and to suit it to our palates, - it was generally seasoned with rock salt, which is procured - near the Arkansa river. - - "This mixture constituted an agreeable food; it was served up - to us in large wooden bowls, which were placed on bison robes - or mats, on the ground; as many of us as could conveniently - eat from one bowl sat round it, each in as easy a position as - he could contrive, and in common we partook of its contents by - means of large spoons made of bison horn. We were sometimes - supplied with uncooked dried meat of the bison, also a very - agreeable food, and to our taste and reminiscence, far - preferable to the flesh of the domestic ox. Another very - acceptable dish was called _leyed corn_; this is maize of the - preceding season _shelled_ from the cob, and first boiled for - a short time in a ley of wood-ashes until the hard skin, which - invests the grains, is separated from them; the whole is then - poured into a basket, which is repeatedly dipped into clean - water, until the ley and skins are removed; the remainder is - then boiled in water until so soft as to be edible. They also - make much use of maize roasted on the cob, of boiled pumpkins, - of musk-melons, and water-melons, but the latter are generally - pulled from the vine before they are completely ripe. - - "Ca-ega-wa-tan-ninga, or the Fool Chief, is the hereditary - principal chief, but he possesses nothing like monarchical - authority, maintaining his distinction only by his bravery and - good conduct. There are ten or twelve inferior chieftains, or - persons who aspire to such dignity, but these do not appear to - {115} command any great respect from the people. Civil as well - as military distinction arises from bravery or generosity. - Controversies are decided amongst themselves; they do not - appeal to their chief, excepting for counsel. They will not - marry any of their kindred, however remote. The females, - before marriage, labour in the fields, and serve their - parents, carry wood and water, and attend to the culinary - duties; when the eldest daughter marries, she commands the - lodge, the mother, and all the sisters; the latter are to be - also the wives of the same individual. When a young man wishes - to marry a particular female, his father gives a feast to a - few persons, generally old men, and acquaints them with his - design; they repair to the girl, who generally feigns an - unwillingness to marry, and urges such reasons as her poverty, - youth, &c.--the old men are often obliged to return six or - seven times before they can effect their object. When her - consent is obtained, the parents of the young man take two or - three blankets and some meat to the parents of the female that - they may feast, and immediately return to their lodge. The - parents put on the meat to cook, and place the same quantity - of meat and merchandize on two horses, and dress their - daughter in the best garments they can afford; she mounts one - of the horses, and leads the other, and is preceded by a crier - announcing, with a loud voice, the marriage of the young - couple, naming them, to the people; in this way she goes to - the habitation of her husband, whose parents take from her - every thing she brings, strip her entirely naked, dress her - again in clothes as good as she brought, furnish her with two - other horses, with meat and merchandize, and she returns with - her crier to her parents. These two horses she retains as her - own, together with all the articles she brings back with her. - Her parents then make a feast, to which they invite the - husband, his parents and friends; the young couple are seated - together, and {116} all then partake of the good cheer, after - which the father of the girl makes a harangue, in which he - informs the young man that he must now assume the command of - the lodge, and of every thing belonging to him and his - daughter. All the merchandize which the bride returned with, - is distributed in presents from herself to the kindred of her - husband in their first visit. The husband then invites the - relatives of his wife to a feast. Whatever peltries the father - possesses are at the disposal of the son to trade with on his - own account; and in every respect the parents, in many - instances, become subservient to the young man. - - "After the death of the husband the widow scarifies herself, - rubs her person with clay, and becomes negligent of her dress, - until the expiration of a year, when the eldest brother of the - deceased takes her to wife without any ceremony, considers her - children as his own, and takes her and them to his house; if - the deceased left no brother, she marries whom she pleases. - They have, in some instances, four or five wives; but these - are mostly sisters; if they marry into two families the wives - do not harmonize well together, and give the husband much - inquietude; there is, however, no restriction in this respect, - except in the prudence of the husband. The grandfather and - grandmother are very fond of their grandchildren, but these - have very little respect for them. The female children respect - and obey their parents; but the males are very disobedient, - and the more obstinate they are, and the less readily they - comply with the commands of their parents, the more the latter - seem to be pleased, saying, 'He will be a brave man, a great - warrior; he will not be controlled.' - - "The attachment of fraternity is as strong, if not stronger, - than with us. The niece has great deference for the uncle. The - female calls her mother's sister _mother_, and her mother's - brother _uncle_. The male calls his father's brother _father_, - his father's sister [106] _aunt_, his mother's sister - _mother_, and his mother's brother _uncle_. Thirteen children - have occurred in one family. A woman had three children at a - birth; all lived. - - "The young men are generally coupled out as friends; the tie - is very permanent, and continues often throughout life. - - "They bear sickness and pain with great fortitude, seldom - uttering a complaint; bystanders sympathize with them, and try - every means to relieve them. Insanity is unknown; the blind - are taken care of by their friends and the nation generally, - and are well dressed and fed. Drunkenness is rare, and is much - ridiculed; a drunken man is said to be bereft of his reason, - and is avoided. As to the origin of the nation, their belief - is, that the Master of life formed a man, and placed him on - the earth; he was solitary, and cried to the Master of life - for a companion, who sent him down a woman; from the union of - these two proceeded a son and daughter, who were married, and - built themselves a lodge distinct from that of their parents; - all the nations proceeded from them, excepting the whites, - whose origin they pretend not to know. When a man is killed in - battle, the thunder is supposed to take him up, they do not - know where. In going to battle each man traces an imaginary - figure of the thunder on the soil; and he who represents it - incorrectly is killed by the thunder. A person saw this - thunder one day on the ground, with a beautiful mockasin on - each side of it; having much need of a pair, he took them and - went his way; but on his return, by the same spot, the thunder - took him off, and he has not been since heard of. They seem to - have vague notions of the future state. They think that a - brave warrior, or good hunter, will walk in a good path; but a - bad man, or coward, will find a bad path. Thinking the - deceased has far to travel, they bury with his body mockasins, - some articles of food, &c. {118} to support him on the - journey. Many persons, they believe, have become reanimated, - who had been, during their apparent death, in strange - villages; but as the inhabitants used them ill, they returned. - They say they have never seen the Master of life, and - therefore cannot pretend to personify him; but they have often - heard him speak in the thunder; they wear often a shell which - is in honour, or in representation of him, but they do not - pretend that it resembles him, or has any thing in common with - his form, organization, or dimensions. - - "This nation having been at profound peace with the Osages, - since the year 1806,[156] have intermarried freely with them, - so that in stature, features, and customs, they are more and - more closely approaching that people. They are large and - symmetrically well formed, with the usual high cheek bones, - the nose more or less aquiline, colour reddish coppery, the - hair black and straight. Their women are small and homely, - with broad faces. We saw but a single squaw in the village who - had any pretensions to beauty; she was recently married to an - enterprizing warrior, who invited us to a feast, apparently in - order to exhibit his prize to us. The ordinary dress of the - men is a breech cloth of blue or red cloth, secured in its - place by a girdle; a pair of leggings, made of dressed - deer-skin, concealing the leg, excepting a small portion of - the upper part of the thigh; a pair of mockasins made of - dressed deer, elk, or bison-skin, not ornamented; and a - blanket to cover the upper part of the body, often thrown over - one arm in hot weather, leaving that part naked; or it is even - entirely thrown aside. The outer cartilage of the ear is cut - through in three places, and upon the rims, thus separated, - various ornaments are suspended, such as wampum, string beads, - silver or tin trinkets, &c. The hair of most of their chiefs - and warriors is scrupulously removed from the head; being - careful, however, to leave enough, as in honour {119} they are - bound to do, to supply their enemy with a scalp, in case they - should be vanquished. This residuum consists of a portion on - the back of the head, of about the breadth of the hand, - rounded at its upper termination near the top of the head, the - sides rectilinear, and nearly parallel, though slightly - approaching each other towards the origin of the neck, where - it abruptly terminates; on the exterior margin, the hair is - somewhat longer and erect; this strip of hair is variously - decorated; it is sometimes coloured on the margin with - vermilion, sometimes a tail feather of the war eagle is - attached transversely with respect to the head; this feather - is white at base, and black at tip; but the principal - ornament, which appears to be worn by some of their chief - warriors, and which is, at the same time, by far the most - handsome, is the tail of the common deer; this is attached by - the base near to the top of the patch of hair, the back of it - resting on the hair, and the tip secured near the termination - of the patch; the bristly hair of the tail is dyed red by a - beautiful permanent colour, and parted longitudinally in the - middle by a broad silver plate, which is attached at top, and - suffered to hang loose. Many of them are tattooed on different - parts of the body. The young boys are entirely naked, with - the exception of a girdle, generally of cloth, round their - protruding abdomen. This part of the body in the children of - this nation is remarkably prominent; it is more particularly - so when they are very young, but gradually subsides as they - advance in age. In hot weather the men, whilst in the village, - generally use fans, with which they cool themselves, when in - the shade, and protect their heads from the sun whilst walking - out; they are made of the wing or tail of the turkey. The - women rarely use them. The dress of the female is composed of - a pair of mockasins, leggings of blue or red cloth, with a - broad projecting border on the outside, and covering the leg - to the knee, or a {120} little above; many, however, and - perhaps almost a majority of them, do not in common wear this - part of the dress. Around the waist, secured by a belt or - cestus, is wrapped a piece of blue cloth, the sides of which - meet, or come nearly in contact on the outside of the right - thigh, and the whole extends downward as far as the knee, or - to the mid-leg; around the left shoulder is a similar piece of - cloth, which is attached, by two of the corners, at the axilla - of the right arm, and extends downward as far as the waist. - This garment is often laid aside, when the body, from the - waist upward, is entirely exposed. Their hair is suffered to - grow long; it is parted longitudinally on the top of the head, - and flows over the shoulders, the line of separation being - coloured with vermilion. The females, like those of other - aborigines, cultivate the maize, beans, pumpkins, and - water-melons; gather and prepare the two former, when ripe, - and pack them away in skins, or in mats, for keeping; prepare - the flesh of the bison, by drying, for preservation; attend to - all the cooking; bring wood and water; and in other respects - manage the domestic concerns, and appear to have over them - absolute sway. These duties, as far as we could observe, they - not only willingly performed as a mere matter of duty, but - they exhibited in their deportment a degree of pride and - ambition to acquit themselves well; in this respect resembling - a good housewife amongst the civilized fair. Many of them are - tattooed. - - "Both sexes of all ages bathe frequently, and enter the water - indiscriminately. The infant is washed in cold water soon - after its birth, and the ablution is frequently repeated; the - mother also bathes with the same fluid soon after delivery. - The infant is tied down to a board, after the manner of many - of the Indian tribes. - - "The chastity of the young females is guarded by the mother - with the most scrupulous watchfulness, {121} and a violation - of it is a rare occurrence, as it renders the individual unfit - for the wife of a chief, a brave warrior, or good hunter. To - wed her daughter to one of these, each mother is solicitous; - as these qualifications offer the same attractions to the - Indian mother as family and fortune exhibit to the civilized - parent. - - "The men carefully pluck from their chins, axilla of the arms, - eye-brows, &c. every hair of beard that presents itself: this - is done with a spiral wire, which, when used, is placed with - the side upon the part, and the ends are pressed towards each - other so as to close the spires upon the hairs, which can then - be readily drawn out; this instrument we observed to be an - article of dress of the chiefs, who departed to attend the - council at the Isle au Vache." - - -FOOTNOTES: - - [139] For Bissel, see Cuming's _Tour_, in our volume iv, note - 182. - - Charles Pentland, of Pennsylvania, served during the War of - 1812-15 as ensign and third lieutenant in the 4th Rifles. - Retained in 1815, he was in 1821 transferred to the 6th - Infantry, in which, two years later, he became captain. He was - dismissed in 1826.--ED. - - - [140] The Kansas River and its tributaries drain most of the - state of the same name. It heads in the prairies of eastern - Colorado, and joins the Missouri at the point where the latter - enters the State of Missouri. It is still sometimes called the - Kaw. The name appears in various forms on early French maps--as - Cans, Rivière des Kancés, Rivière des Quans, etc.--ED. - - - [141] The Little Platte (which the French called Petite Rivière - Platte, or Little Shallow River), rises in southern Iowa and - flows south to its confluence with the Missouri in Platte - County. Its mouth is now opposite Diamond Island, for the - channels of the two rivers have, in their shifting, been brought - together several miles above the old confluence. The abandoned - lower channel is still visible. - - Diamond Island is near the Kansas side of the Missouri, on the - line between Leavenworth and Wyandotte counties. - - When Lewis and Clark passed this spot in 1804, the two smaller - islands of the group called Three Islands had but recently - appeared. They are opposite the mouth of Nine Mile Creek, five - or six miles below Leavenworth. The principal member of the - group is Spar Island. - - The Four Islands are in front of Leavenworth, and one of the - largest has the same name as the city.--ED. - - - [142] Isle au Vache (Isle des Vaches, Isle de Vache, Buffalo - Island), now Cow Island, is on the line between Atchison and - Leavenworth counties. - - Wyly Martin, a Tennesseean, had been captain in the 3d Rifle - regiment at the close of the War of 1812-15, and after an - honorable discharge in 1815, had been reinstated the same - year. He was transferred to the 6th Infantry in 1821, and - resigned two years later. - - Lewis and Clark note the site of the Kansa village and French - fort. The former stood in a valley between two high elevations, - and the latter was on another elevation a mile in the rear. They - found few traces of the village, but there remained the general - outline of the fortifications and some ruins of chimneys. It was - near this spot that Fort Leavenworth was established, in 1827. - See Bradbury's _Travels_, in our volume v, note 37.--ED. - - - [143] For the early history of the Kansa, see Bradbury's - _Travels_, in our volume v, note 37.--ED. - - - [144] White Plume became the chief of the tribe, and some - fifteen years later was still in power. Catlin, in _North - American Indians_ (London, 1866), ii, p. 23, described him as - urbane and hospitable, and of portly build.--ED. - - - [145] The surprise of the Indians will hardly be cause for - wonder, after reading the following description of the "Western - Engineer," which appeared in the St. Louis _Enquirer_, June 19, - 1819, ten days after the expedition arrived at that place: "The - bow of the vessel exhibits the form of a huge serpent, black and - scaly, rising out of the water from under the boat, his head - as high as the deck, darted forward, his mouth open, vomiting - smoke, and apparently carrying the boat on his back. From under - the boat, at its stern issues a stream of foaming water, dashing - violently along. All the machinery is hid. . . . The boat is - ascending the rapid stream at the rate of three miles an hour. - Neither wind nor human hands are seen to help her; and to the - eye of ignorance the illusion is complete, that a monster of the - deep carries her on his back smoking with fatigue, and lashing - the waves with violent exertion." - - A resident of Franklin, Missouri, thus described the boat and - the impression it made upon the savages: "In place of a - bowsprit, she has carved a great serpent, and as the steam - escapes out of its mouth, it runs out a long tongue, to the - perfect horror of all Indians that see her. They say, 'White - man bad man, keep a great spirit chained and build fire under - it to make it work a boat.'"--ED. - - - [146] Willoughby Morgan, a Virginian, served during the War - of 1812-15 as captain and major of infantry. In 1815 he was - retained in the rifle regiment as captain, with brevet of major, - becoming lieutenant-colonel in 1818. In 1821 he was transferred - to the infantry; he became colonel of the 1st Infantry in 1830, - and died in 1832. - - "Lieutenant Fields" is probably Gabriel Field, whose army record - is given as follows in the registers: "Born in ----. Appointed - from Mo. 2nd Lieut. Rifles, 24 May, 1817; 1st Lieut., 15 April, - 1818; transferred to 6th Infantry, 1 June, 1821; resigned 16 - April, 1823."--ED. - - - [147] Independence Creek owes its name to Lewis and Clark, who - reached this point on July 4, 1804. Its mouth is on the line - between Atchison and Doniphan counties, Kansas. Lewis and Clark - named another small stream, fifteen miles below, Fourth of July - Creek. They also visited the site of the Indian village here - mentioned, and thought it must have been a large one, judging - from the remains.--ED. - - - [148] The color is due to the presence of yellow ochre.--ED. - - - [149] For data relative to the Nodaway River, see Bradbury's - _Travels_, in our volume v, note 5.--ED. - - - [150] The name of Wolf River or Creek (Rivière du Loup of early - French maps), is a translation of the Indian name. The stream - debouches four miles below the town of Iowa Point, in Doniphan - County, Kansas.--ED. - - - [151] _Sciurus macrurus._ SAY.--_Body_ above each side, mixed - gray and black; fur plumbeous, black at base, then pale - cinnamon, then black, then cinereous, with a long black tip; - _ears_ bright ferruginous behind, the colour extending to the - base of the fur, which, in its winter dress, is prominent beyond - the edge; within dull ferruginous, the fur slightly tipped with - black; _side of the head and orbits_ pale ferruginous, cheek - under the eye and ear dusky; _whiskers_ black, in about five - series, of which the four inferior ones are more distinct, - hairs a little flattened; _mouth_ margined with black; _teeth_ - reddish yellow; _head_ beneath, _neck_ and _feet_ above pale - ferruginous; _belly_ paler; fur pale plumbeous at base; _palms_ - black; _toes_, anterior ones four, the thumb tubercle not longer - than its lobe in the palm, and furnished with a broad flat - nail; posterior toes five; _tail_ beneath bright ferruginous, - the colour extending to the base of the fur, with a submarginal - black line; above mixed ferruginous and black; fur within pale - cinnamon, with the base and three bands black; tip ferruginous. - - ft. in. - From nose to tip of tail (exclusive of the hair) 1 7-1/4 - Tail, from base to tip (exclusive of the hair) 9-1/10 - Ear, from head to tip 0-3/4 - - The most common species of squirrel on the banks of the - Missouri river. It is allied to _S. cinereus_, but cannot be - considered as a variety of that species; neither does it - approach any of the numerous varieties of the very variable - _S. capistratus_ of Bosc. - - The fur of the back in the summer dress is from 3/5 to 7/10 of - an inch long; but in the winter dress the longest hairs of the - middle of the back are one inch and 3/4 in length. This - difference in the length of the hairs, combined with a greater - portion of fat, gives to the whole animal a thicker and - shorter appearance; but the colours continue the same, and it - is only in this latter season that the ears are fringed, which - is the necessary consequence of the elongation of the hair. - This species was not an unfrequent article of food at our - frugal yet social meals at Engineer Cantonment, and we could - always immediately distinguish the bones from those of other - animals, by their remarkably red colour. - - The tail is even more voluminous than that of the _S. - cinereus_. - - It seems to approach the _Sc. rufiventer_. _Geoff._ v. Dict. - D. Hist. Nat. article Ecu. p. 104.--JAMES. - - - [152] See sketch of Charbonneau in Brackenridge's _Journal_, - volume vi of our series, note 3.--ED. - - - [153] Hay Cabin Creek and Blue Water are now known respectively - as the Little Blue River and Big Blue River (or Creek; not to - be confounded with the Big Blue of Kansas). Both debouche in - Jackson County, Missouri. The Warreruza is the modern Wakarusa - (the meaning of which is variously given as "thigh deep" and - "river of big weeds"), which flows across Shawnee and Douglas - counties, Kansas, to the northeast corner of the latter. Full - Creek (or River) is the present Upper Mill Creek, another - southern tributary of the Kansas, the mouth of which is in - northeastern Wabaunsee County, by a direct line about fifty - miles above the confluence of the Wakarusa. Pike's chart of - 1806, which Say's party possessed, shows Hay Cabin Creek, Blue - Water, Warreruza, and Full River successively, south of the - Missouri and Kansas. There are several other creeks, however, - between the Blue Water and Warreruza which Pike does not show, - and the Warreruza is a larger stream than his chart indicates. - Say's party apparently mistook one of the small streams for the - Warreruza, and, upon reaching the latter, mistook it in turn for - Full Creek. They could hardly have traced the course of Full - Creek from the lower Warreruza, where they must have been on - August eleventh. This error explains their doubt, while encamped - on the Kansas on August sixteenth, whether they were above or - below the Indian village, which is plainly shown on Pike's chart - as situated at the mouth of Blue Earth (Big Blue) River.--ED. - - - [154] When Say's party reached the Kansas, they had crossed - Johnson and Douglas counties, following the high prairie country - which lies from six to fifteen miles south of the river. The - camp on the thirteenth was probably not far from Lecompton; by - the sixteenth, they must have been near Topeka. - - Big Blue River (Blue Earth on the map), at the mouth of which - the Kansa village stood, rises in Nebraska, flows through - Marshall County, Kansas, and forms the boundary between Riley - and Pottawatomie counties. Near the confluence, a westward bend - of the Big Blue forms a peninsula about two miles long and half - a mile wide, which was the site of the village. A few years - ago the exact locations of the lodges were still indicated by - circular ridges and depressions, from which a map of the village - was prepared (see Kansas Historical Society _Transactions_, - 1881, p. 288). The site was partially abandoned in 1830, and - three villages constructed near Topeka; these in turn were - abandoned when the territory which contained them was ceded to - the United States in 1846.--ED. - - - [155] The Vermillion is a Pottawatomie County stream about - twenty miles east of the Big Blue.--ED. - - - [156] Pike, p. 144.--JAMES. - - _Comment by Ed._ The reference is to _An Account of Expeditions - to the Sources of the Mississippi and through the Western Parts - of Louisiana_, etc. (Philadelphia, 1810). Pike mediated a peace - treaty between the Kansa and Osage, at the Pawnee village on - Republican River, September 28, 1806. - - - - -{122} CHAPTER VII - - Further Account of the Konza Nation--Robbery of Mr. Say's - Detachment by a War-Party of Pawnees--Arrival at the Platte. - - -The Konza warriors, like those of some others of the Missouri -tribes on their departure on a war excursion, sometimes make vows, -binding themselves never to return until they have performed some -feat which they mention, such as killing an enemy, striking an -enemy's dead body, or stealing a horse. An instance lately -occurred of a warrior who had been long absent under a vow of this -sort, and finding it impossible to meet an enemy, and being in a -starving condition, he returned to his own village by night, with -the determination of accomplishing his vow, by killing and -scalping the first person he should meet. This person happened to -be the warrior's own mother, but the darkness of the night -prevented the discovery until he had accomplished his bloody -purpose. - -On the 23d of August, Mr. Say's party began to prepare for leaving -the Konza village, where they had been treated with much -hospitality. They purchased a number of articles for their use on -the journey they proposed to take, such as jerked bison meat, -pounded maize, bison fat put up like sausages, mockasins, -leggings, spoons made of the horn of the bison, two large wooden -dishes, &c. They received also an addition to their cavalcade of -two horses, one belonging to Major O'Fallon, and another which -they procured from a Frenchman residing in the village. - -A Pawnee prisoner, an interesting young man, {123} was brought to -them, who said he was desirous to accompany them to his nation, -but at the same time was afraid his people would not recognize -him, and would kill him for a Konza. He was promised protection, -but at the same time it was remarked to him, that if he should -attempt to steal the horses of the party on the way, they would -certainly pursue him and take his scalp. - -On the 24th, says Mr. Say, having been detained until afternoon in -searching for our horses, we departed, accompanied by several -Indians, who intended to pass the night with us and to return to -the village the following morning. - -Our path led along the margin of Blue Earth Creek, a stream of the -width of twenty-five yards, and greatest depth of three feet, -which discharges into the river a mile or two above the Konza -village. The soil supports but a thin growth of grass, and the -timber is far from abundant, consisting principally of different -sorts of oak, confined to the margin of the creek, its ravines and -tributaries. One of our Indian followers, who, although a chief of -the extinct Missouri nation,[157] has yet much influence with the -Konzas, wished to exchange a horse he had with him for one of -ours, which was evidently a less valuable animal. The reason he -assigned in explanation of his desire of such an apparently -disadvantageous exchange was, that his horse had been presented to -him by a person, who, he feared, intended to reclaim him, but that -if he should exchange him for another horse, he would be secure in -the possession of the individual so obtained, as an Indian will -not reclaim a present which is not identically the same he had -given. At the distance of seven miles from the village, our party -encamped by the side of the creek, in a narrow, but beautiful -and level prairie bottom, which was bounded by an abrupt, though -verdant range of bluffs. - - [Illustration: INDIAN RECORD _of a_ BATTLE _between the PAWNEES - and the KONZAS_. - - A Fac simile _of a Delineation upon a_ BISON ROBE. - - _London, Pub^{d}, by Longman & C^{o.}, 1823_] - -Mr. Dougherty and one of the Indians went in {124} quest of game, -and having supplied the two remaining Indians with a pipe and -tobacco, we were partaking of some refreshment, when one of the -party suddenly drew our attention to an extensive cloud of dust, -which arose from the plain, and which we soon perceived but -partially concealed a body of Indians, who had already approached -within a quarter of a mile, and were now running with great -swiftness. Our Indian followers now displayed all their activity; -the chief seized his gun, and ran towards the advancing multitude -to obtain his horse, which he mounted and rode off at full speed, -whilst his companion disappeared in the bushes in an instant. This -was a sufficient intimation that a hostile party was before us, -and a timely admonition of the approach of danger. Our men were -therefore drawn up in a line, and all prepared themselves for -defence in case of extremity. - -The advancing party were armed, decorated, and painted, for -battle, but they manifested, as they rushed up to us, the most -pacific deportment, shaking us by the hand, putting their arms -about our necks, and raising their hands with the palm towards us, -in token of peace. We were not, however, disposed to rely upon -these assurances of friendship, being fully aware of the -difficulties which their partizans would have to surmount in -checking the inconsiderate prowess of the younger warriors. We now -observed some of them seizing our horses, which were staked at -some distance: they mounted them and rode swiftly in the direction -that the chief had taken, but they soon returned. It soon became -necessary to protect our baggage by arranging ourselves around -it; still, however, in despite of our vigilance, many of our small -articles were stolen. They begged for whiskey and tobacco; and a -small portion of the latter was given them. Amidst the confusion -arising from the incessant and rapid movements of the Indians, we -observed an individual bearing off a small {125} package of very -fine pounded meat; I immediately pointed out the circumstance to -the partizan, and directed him to recover it and punish the thief; -he complied by wresting the meat from the grasp of the latter, and -from that of several others who had been contending for portions -of it, placed it beneath his feet, and defended it with his lance; -but Chabonneau, to whom the meat belonged, declaring that he had -given it to them, they were permitted to retain it. A tent which -had been pitched for me in consideration of my illness, and in -which my blanket, pistols, together with some small articles, had -been deposited, was plundered of its contents; it was finally cut -down, and would have been taken away, had we not made an effort to -preserve it. During the whole transaction those warriors, who -stood at a short distance, intently watched our movements, as if -they were led to believe, from the attitude we assumed, that we -would attempt to repel them, even with our inadequate force. No -sudden action or motion of any one of the party escaped them; and -individuals were frequently observed to draw their arrows to test -the elasticity of the bows. At a critical juncture, a tall and -graceful Indian cocked his gun fiercely, and put his war whistle -to his mouth, but the signal was not blown. Amongst numerous -incidents that occurred during the half hour that we were -surrounded by them, an individual attempted to seize a knapsack -belonging to one of the soldiers, and immediately under his -observation; the latter placed his foot upon the knapsack to -detain it, and at the same time prepared his gun as if to shoot -the offender, who leaped backward with great agility, and with an -ejaculation of pleasure, drew his arrow to the head. The whole -party precipitately retreated just as Mr. Dougherty returned from -hunting; being briefly informed of the nature of their visit, he -called aloud to the fugitives in their own language, but they -passed on without heeding him, taking our {126} horses with them. -I had by a rough estimate fixed their number at one hundred and -forty; they were chiefly armed with the bow and arrow, and lance, -with the usual accompaniments of tomahawks, war-clubs, and knives, -together with a few guns. Fortunately no personal indignity was -offered us; yet we could not repress a sensation of much -mortification at the prospect of a frustration of our enterprise, -which now seemed inevitable, and of extreme vexation at the -irreparable loss of our horses, which no exertions of ours could -have saved: an appeal to arms, except in the last extremity, would -have been the height of imprudence, conquest being hopeless, and -escape almost impossible. - -Soon after their departure Mr. Jessup and Chabonneau set out for -the village to procure assistance, for the purpose of removing our -camp to that place from which we recommenced our journey at a -moment so unpropitious; whilst we busied ourselves in removing the -baggage to a situation amongst the neighbouring bushes, which -appeared favourable for concealment, and for defence, in case of a -night attack, which was confidently anticipated. Several alarms -occurred during the night, and on the return of day we observed -thirty mounted Indians riding swiftly towards us. The chief, who -left us so precipitately the preceding evening, on his arrival at -the village, hastily assembled a little band of warriors for the -purpose of returning immediately to our assistance, and it was he -and his party, that we had now the pleasure to greet. They -expressed great satisfaction, when they learned that we were all -uninjured. After saluting us cordially, they pursued the trail of -the Pawnees for some distance, and from the footsteps in the -grass, and other appearances, to be duly appreciated only by the -eye of an Indian, they estimated the number of the Pawnees at one -hundred and thirty. On their return they restored to us some bacon -and other articles, which had been {127} carried off by the -fugitives, and rejected as not at all to their taste. We were now -supplied with a conveyance for ourselves and our baggage, and were -conducted back to the village. - -The Indians who committed this robbery, were a war-party of the -republican Pawnees, and were about one hundred and forty in -number. Their nation was at war with the Konzas. - -Mr. Say's party were kindly received at the village they had left -on the preceding day. In the evening they had retired to rest in -the lodge set apart for their accommodation, when they were -alarmed by a party of savages rushing in, armed with bows, arrows, -and lances, shouting and yelling in a most frightful manner. The -gentlemen of the party had immediate recourse to their arms; but -observing that some squaws, who were in the lodge, appeared -unmoved, they began to suspect that no molestation to them was -intended. The Indians collected around the fire in the centre of -the lodge, yelling incessantly; at length their howlings assumed -something of a measured tone, and they began to accompany their -voices with a sort of drum and rattles. After singing for some -time, one who appeared to be their leader, struck the post over -the fire with his lance, and they all began to dance, keeping very -exact time with the music. Each warrior had, besides his arms, and -rattles made of strings of deer's hoofs, some part of the -intestines of an animal inflated, and enclosing a few small -stones, which produced a sound like pebbles in a gourd shell. -After dancing round the fire for some time, without appearing to -notice the strangers, they departed, raising the same wolfish -howl, with which they had entered; but their music and their -yelling continued to be heard about the village during the night. - - [Illustration: War Dance in the interior of a Konza Lodge] - -This ceremony, called the _dog dance_, was performed by the Konzas -for the entertainment of their guests. Mr. Seymour took an -opportunity to sketch {128} the attitudes and dresses of the -principal figures.[158] - -Finding it impracticable to obtain horses by purchase, out of -their almost exhausted stock of merchandize, to enable them to -prosecute their march to Council Bluff, after due deliberation, -they saw no alternative, but to endeavour to hire horses on -credit, and to make the best of their way for Cow Island, in hopes -of meeting the steamboat there. A Frenchman, Mr. Gunville, -resident with this nation, agreed to furnish two pack horses, and -a saddle horse for Mr. Say, whose state of health would not admit -of his continuing the journey on foot. Thus furnished they -prepared to depart, and in the meantime two runners were -despatched to inform Major Long of their situation by letter. - -On the 25th of August, Mr. Say and his party again left the Konza -village, accompanied by the French trader, who had furnished them -two horses, and by a Missouri Indian; but this last had followed -them only a few miles, when he repented of his undertaking and -returned. - -In pursuing the most direct route from the Konza village to the -Missouri, they crossed at the distance of seventeen miles, the -Vermilion, a small stream bordered with handsome forests. Nineteen -miles beyond this they arrived at the sources of Grasshopper -Creek, where they encamped on the evening of the 27th.[159] Here -the soil changes somewhat abruptly. The high prairies about the -Vermilion and Blue Earth creeks are barren, almost naked, and -inhabited by some orbicular lizards. About Grasshopper Creek the -soil is fertile, the grass dense and luxuriant. - -On the 29th they arrived at Isle au Vache, and were hospitably -received by Colonel Morgan and the officers of his command, but -had the mortification to learn that Major Long, after waiting a -sufficient time to enable the Indian agent to complete his -negotiations {129} with the Konzas, had departed with the -steam-boat before the arrival of the messengers, that had been -sent to notify him of their disaster. These runners had been -despatched immediately after their arrival, with instructions to -overtake the steam-boat, and to deliver Mr. Say's letter, but -after some days they returned, without having been able to effect -any thing. - -It was now determined that Mr. Say and Mr. Jessup, who on account -of ill health, were unable to travel farther on foot, should for -the present remain at Isle au Vache, while the other gentlemen of -the detachment should continue their journey. Mr. Dougherty, from -his intimate acquaintance with the country, was of opinion that by -crossing in the nearest direction from Isle au Vache to the mouth -of Wolf river, they might yet overtake the steam-boat. They -accordingly placed themselves under his guidance, and, by great -exertion, fortunately arrived at the mouth of Wolf river, on the -evening of the 1st of September, as the steam-boat was passing. - -The country south-west of the Missouri, between the Konzas and the -Platte, is drained principally by Wolf river and the Great -Nemahaw. These rivers, like the Nodowa and Nishnebottona, which -enter the Missouri nearly opposite them from the north-east, rise -in the prairies at an elevation probably of forty or fifty feet -above the level of the Missouri. As they descend, their vallies -becoming gradually wider, embosom a few trees, and at length, near -their entrance into the Missouri valley, are forests of -considerable extent. The surface of these prairies presents a -constant succession of small rounded hills, becoming larger and -more abrupt as you approach the beds of the rivers. The soil is -deep, reposing usually on horizontal beds of argillaceous -sandstone, and secondary limestone. In all the limestones along -the Missouri, we observe a tendency to crystalline structure, and -they have often a reddish or yellowish white {130} colour. There -is, however, always something in the arrangement and in the -aspect of the crystals to distinguish these sparry varieties from -the primitive granular limestone, to which they have something of -general resemblance. The horizontal disposition of the strata of -this limestone, the great numbers of organic relics contained in -it, and its intimate connexion with coal strata, indicate with -sufficient clearness its relation to the secondary rocks. No -person who shall examine this stratum with the least attention, -either about the Nemahaw and the Konzas, or in the mining district -at the sources of the Gasconade, the Merameg, and the St. Francis, -will for a moment mistake it for any of those varieties of -transition or primitive limestone, which it in some respects so -closely resembles. The crystalline varieties, no less than the -compact blue limestones, embrace numerous masses of chert or -hornstone. This occurs of various colours, and these are arranged -in spots or stripes. Some specimens have several distinct colours -arranged in zigzag lines, somewhat resembling the fortification -agate. The hunters use fragments of this stone for gun-flints; the -savages also formerly employed it in the manufacture of arrow -points and other implements.[160] - -The soil superimposed upon these strata of limestone, is a -calcareous loam. Near the rivers it is intermixed with sand; this -is also the case with the soil of the high prairies about the -Konzas village. In ascending the Konzas river, one hundred, or one -hundred and twenty miles from the Missouri, you discover numerous -indications, both in the soil, and its animal and vegetable -productions, of an approach to the borders of that great Sandy -Desert, which stretches eastward from the base of the Rocky -Mountains. You meet there with the orbicular lizard, or "horned -frog," an inhabitant of the arid plains of {131} New Mexico. You -distinguish also some cacti, as well as many of those plants -allied to chenopodium and salsola, which delight in a thirsty -muriatiferous soil. The catalogue of the forest trees belonging to -the vallies of this region is not very copious. The cotton-wood -and the plane tree, every where form conspicuous features of the -forests. With these are intermixed the tall and graceful acacia, -the honey locust, and the bonduc, or coffee-tree,[161] and several -species of juglans, carya and fraxinus, with pinnated or -many-parted leaves. Trees of the family of the coniferæ are not of -frequent occurrence on the Missouri. About the summits of rocky -cliffs are here and there a few cedars or junipers, the only trees -that retain their verdure during the winter. - -The prairies, for many miles on each side of the Missouri, produce -abundance of good pasturage; but as far as our observation has -extended, the best soil is a margin from ten to twelve miles in -breadth, along the western bank of the river. In the summer very -little water is to be found in the prairies, all the smaller -streams failing, even though the season be not unusually dry. On -account of the want of wood and of water, the settlements will be -for a long time confined to the immediate vallies of the Missouri, -the Konzas, and the larger rivers; but it is probable, forests -will hereafter be cultivated in those vast woodless regions, -which now form so great a proportion of the country; and wells may -be made to supply the deficiency of running water. - -We have seen at Bellefontain, as well as at several other points -on this river, a pretty species of sparrow, which is altogether -new to us;[162] and several specimens of a serpent have occurred, -which has considerable affinity with the pine-snake of the -southern states, or bull-snake of Bartram.[163] - -Having received on board the detachment that had arrived from the -Konza village, except Messrs. {132} Say and Jessup, who, on -account of ill health, remained at Isle au Vache, we left the -mouth of Wolf river on the 2nd of September. A party of hunters, -furnished with a horse for the transportation of game, were -despatched at the same time with instructions to hunt on the south -side of the river, and to join us again in the evening. We had -little difficulty in procuring a constant supply of venison. Deer -are very numerous on this part of the Missouri, and we had several -opportunities to kill them from on board, as they were swimming -across the river. - -Twenty-one miles above the mouth of Wolf river, and on the same -side, is the entrance of the Grand Nemahaw, a considerable river -which rises in the plains between the Platte and the Republican -Fork of the Konzas river, and running eastwardly about one hundred -and fifty miles, discharges into the Missouri a little north of -latitude forty degrees. In the straightness of its course, the -rapidity and turbulence of its stream, it has a general -resemblance to the other western tributaries of the Missouri. A -few miles above the Nemahaw, and on the opposite side, is the -mouth of the Tarkio, a smaller stream.[164] - -On the 4th of September we were joined by the hunters, who brought -two deer, and informed us they had killed several others. -Lieutenant Field's boat was allowed to remain at the encampment of -the preceding night, after the departure of the steam-boat, for -the purpose of taking on board a large quantity of honey. Swarms -of bees were found here in great numbers, and the honey they -afforded made a valuable addition to our provisions, consisting -now in a great measure of hunters' fare. - -Finding one of the valves of the steam-engine much worn and leaky, -we were now under the necessity of stopping for a day to have a -new one, which we had brought, adapted to its place. Several of -the men amused themselves by hunting and fishing. {133} We had now -a plentiful supply of game, and many large catfish were taken, -some of them weighing more than fifty pounds. - -We passed in succession the mouths of the Nishnebottona and the -Little Nemahaw,[165] and arrived on the 7th at the Grand Pass. -Here the Nishnebottona, a beautiful river about sixty yards wide, -approaches within one hundred and fifty yards of the Missouri, -being separated from it by a sandy prairie, rising scarcely -twenty feet above the surface of the water. After pursuing for a -short distance a parallel course, the two rivers diverge, and the -Nishnebottona meanders along the side of the Missouri valley, about -sixty miles to its confluence with the latter river.[166] From this -point is a pleasing view of the hills called the Baldpated Prairie, -stretching along the north-eastern side of the Nishnebottona, and -diminished to the size of anthills in the distant perspective.[167] -Here the navigation is much obstructed by sand-bars, and the -ordinary current of the Missouri, according to the statement of -Lewis and Clarke, corroborated by our observation, is something -more than one fathom per second.[168] In many places the Missouri -hurries across concealed sand bars and other obstructions, with the -velocity of seven, eight, or even twelve feet in a second.[169] -Between these obstructions, the channel becomes deeper, and the -current more moderate; consequently the aggregate velocity at times -of low water may be reckoned something less than six feet to the -second. As the volume of water is increased by the heavy rains, and -the melting of the snows within the Rocky Mountains, the current is -proportionably accelerated, and becomes more equable, running for -many miles in succession, not less than seven hundred and twenty -feet per minute. At the time of our ascent the summer floods had -not entirely subsided, and in contending against the current, we -found occasion {134} in a few instances to make use of the towing -rope. - -About thirteen miles above the Grand Pass is a point where Lewis -and Clarke witnessed the falling of a portion, about three-fourths -of a mile in length, of a high cliff of sandstone and clay. -Appearances have considerably changed since the time of their -journey. There is still an indentation along the bluff, showing -the upper part of the portion which had slid down, but the whole -is now covered with grass. The river has retired from the base of -the cliff it was then undermining. A grassy plain, of some extent, -occupies the spot where the bed of the river must have been; but -this prairie is, in its turn, experiencing the vicissitude -incident to every thing along the bank of the Missouri, and is -evidently very soon to disappear entirely. A mile or two above -this point are cliffs of sandstone and indurated clay, in a state -of rapid disintegration. Here we observed extensive beds of -aluminous earth, of a dark grey colour, alternating with red and -yellowish white sandstone. Here are also numerous vegetable -remains, which Mr. Say thought to consist of the limbs of trees -included in the rock, carbonized and often intermixed with -pyrites; smaller limbs in short fragments lay intermixed, and -crossing each other in every direction. - -Among other things, we observed here what appeared to be the cast -of the seed vessel of the nelumbium, of uncommon magnitude. -Fragments of mineral coal were observed scattered about the -surface. - -The mouth of the Platte,[170] where we arrived on the 15th of -September is, according to our observations, in latitude 41° 3´ -13´´ north. We shall hereafter have occasion to speak more -particularly of this river. Its mouth now exhibited a great extent -of naked sand-bars, the water, which was transparent and of a -greenish colour, flowing almost unseen through a number of small -channels. Masses of sand accumulate at the mouth of the Platte, -rendering the {135} navigation of the Missouri at that point -extremely difficult. The Platte, during its floods, pours into the -Missouri a volume of water, considerably exceeding in magnitude -that of the latter river, occasioning a reflux of the waters for -many miles. From the Platte upward, the annual range from high to -low water in the Missouri, may be rated at about eighteen feet. - -Above the Platte, the scenery of the Missouri becomes much more -interesting. The bluffs on each side are more elevated and abrupt, -and being absolutely naked, rising into conic points, split by -innumerable ravines, they have an imposing resemblance to groups -of high granitic mountains, seen at a distance. The forests within -the valley are of small extent, interspersed with wide meadows -covered with carices and cyperaceæ, with some species of limnetis, -polypogon, and arundo, sometimes sinking into marshes occupied by -sagittarias, alismas, and others of the hydrocharidæ. The -woodlands here, as on the whole of the Missouri below, are filled -with great numbers of pea vines,[171] which afford an excellent -pasturage for horses and cattle. The roots of the apios tuberosa -were much sought after, and eaten by the soldiers, who accompanied -us in our ascent. They are little tubers about half an inch in -diameter, and when boiled are very agreeable to the taste. Two and -a half miles above the mouth of the Platte, and on the same side, -is that of the Papilion, a stream of considerable length, but -discharging little water.[172] Here we found two boats belonging -to the Indian traders at St. Louis. They had passed us some days -before, and were to remain for the winter at the mouth of the -Papilion, to trade with the Otoes, Missouries, and other Indians. - - -The banks of the Missouri, above the Platte, have long been -frequented by the Indians, either as places {136} of permanent or -occasional residence. Deserted encampments are often seen. On the -north-east side, near the mouth of Mosquito river, are the remains -of an old Ioway village. Four miles above, and on the opposite -side, was formerly a village of the Otoes. On the 17th of -September we arrived at the trading establishment of the Missouri -Fur Company, known as Fort Lisa, and occupied by Mr. Manuel Lisa, -one of the most active persons engaged in the Missouri fur trade. -We were received by a salute from this establishment, and encamped -a little above, on the same side of the river.[173] - - -FOOTNOTES: - - [157] For sketch of the Missouri Indians, see Bradbury's - _Travels_, in our volume v, note 26.--ED. - - - [158] For a description of the dog dance of the Sioux, see - Smithsonian Institution _Report_, 1885, part ii, pp. 307, - 308.--ED. - - - [159] Grasshopper Creek rises near the northern line of the - state, its mouth being in Jefferson County, opposite Lecompton. - The name was changed to Delaware River when the tribe of that - name was removed to its lower course. - - The route of the party on its return may have been across - Pottawatomie and Jackson counties, and through southern - Atchison; or, more probably, northern Jefferson and Leavenworth - counties.--ED. - - - [160] Jessup's MS. Report.--JAMES. - - - [161] The guilandina dioica of Linn., Marshall, &c. but referred - by Michaux to the new genus gymnocladus, of which it is the only - well ascertained species. It is common throughout the western - states, and territories, and in Canada, where it is called by - the French Chicot, or stump tree, from the nakedness of its - appearance in winter. In the English gardens, where it has been - cultivated many years under the name of the hardy bonduc, it has - attained considerable magnitude, but has not hitherto been known - to produce flowers.--JAMES. - - - [162] _Fringilla grammaca_, SAY.--Above blackish-brown; _head_ - lineated; beneath white, a black line from the inferior base - of the inferior mandible, above this a dilated white line; - from the angle of the mouth proceeds a black line, which is - much dilated and ferruginous behind the eye, and terminates - in a contracted black line; a black line from the eye to the - superior mandible, enclosed, as well as the eye, by a dilated - white line, which is more contracted behind the eye; top of - the head with two dilated lines, which are black on the front - and ferruginous on the crown and hind head, and separated from - each other by a cinereous line; interscapulars and lesser wing - coverts margined with dull cinereous or brownish; _wings_ dusky - brown, a white spot on the outer webs of the second, third, and - fourth primaries, near their bases; _back_ dirty olive-brown; - _tail_ rounded; _tail feathers_ twelve, blackish-brown, two - intermediate ones immaculate, adjoining ones with a small white - spot at tip, which, on the lateral ones, increases in size until - on the exterior one it occupies half of the total length of - the feather; the exterior web of the outer feather is white to - its base; _chin_ and _throat_ white; _neck_ and _breast_ dull - cinereous; _abdomen_ and _vent_ white; _feet_ pale, tinged with - orange; nail of the middle toe slightly dilated on the inner - side. - - Length six and a quarter inches. - - Shot at Belle Fontain on the Missouri. Many specimens were - obtained. The auriculars of the female are yellowish-brown. - They run upon the ground like a lark, seldom fly into a tree, - and sing sweetly. They were subsequently observed at Engineer - Cantonment.--JAMES. - - - [163] _Coluber obsoletus_, SAY.--_Body_ black above, beneath - whitish, with large subquadrate black spots, which are - confluent, and pale bluish towards the tail; _throat_ and _neck_ - pure white; _sides_ between the scales with red marks. - - Description. _Body_ black, _anterior half_ with a series of - continuous, dilated dull-red large circles, formed upon the - skin between the scales, on the side; on many of the scales, - are white marginal dashes near their bases: these scales are - placed in groups each side of the vertebræ of the anterior - moiety of the body; _scales_ bipunctured at tip; _beneath_ - flat, so as to produce an angle or carnia each side; white - slightly tinged with yellowish red, irrorate with black - points, and spotted with large oblong quadrate marks, which - gradually become more continuous, confluent and plumbeous - towards the tail, occupying nearly the whole surface; _head_ - beneath and _throat_ pure white; posterior _canthus_ of the - eye two-scaled; _iris_ blackish; _pupil_ deep-blued black, - enclosed by a silvery line. - - One specimen, Pl. 228 -- Sc. 67 ? - Another specimen Pl. 233 -- Sc. 84 - Another specimen Pl. 228 -- Sc. 84 - Total length -- 4 feet 11-5/8 inches. - Tail length 4 feet 10-1/8 inches. - - The lateral red marks are not perceptible, unless the skin be - dilated so as to separate the scales; and the small white - marginal lines on the bases of some of the scales are - observable only on close inspection. It varies in being nearly - or quite destitute of spots on the anterior portion of the - body beneath, but the posterior half of the inferior surface - still remains blackish. The whole animal bears strong - resemblance to C. _constrictor_; but the scales are decidedly - smaller, and the number of its plates and scales approach it - still more closely to that uncertain species C. _ovivorus_. It - is not an uncommon species on the Missouri from the vicinity - of Isle au Vache to Council Bluff. - - _Penis_ terminated by a hemisphere, covered with compressed, - white spines, which are reflected at tip; the series interrupted - on the posterior side of the member by a canal; _it_ is much - dilated, dark reddish brown, abruptly contracted at base from - the exterior side, and with a prominent tubercle on the middle - of the inner side: length one inch and a quarter, width about - seven-sixteenths of an inch.--JAMES. - - - [164] The Grand Nemahaw, now usually called Big Nemaha, does not - rise so far to the west as is here implied. Its sources are in - Lancaster County, Nebraska, almost directly north of the mouth - of Republican River. The confluence of the Big Nemaha is just - above the Kansas-Nebraska line. - - There are two streams (Big and Little) called Tarkio Creek. - They flow parallel through Atchison and Holt counties, - Missouri. The mouth of the Big Tarkio is opposite that of the - Big Nemaha; that of the Little Tarkio is now about eleven - miles below, but the channel is very changeable. Tarkio is - said to mean "full of walnuts."--ED. - - - [165] The Little Nemaha flows through the Nebraska county of - the same name; its mouth is between the towns of Aspinwall and - Nemaha.--ED. - - - [166] Nishnabotna is an Indian word signifying "canoe making - river." Fifteen years earlier, Lewis and Clark found the - divide between the rivers about three hundred yards wide. At - that time the mouth of the Nishnabotna was on the line between - Atchison and Holt counties, Missouri. Since then its waters - have found their way across Grand Pass, and the old channel - below that point has been abandoned. In 1804 the main current - of the Missouri ran north of L'Isle Chauve (Bald Island), the - middle of which lay opposite Grand Pass. The channel now runs - south of this island, while the Nishnabotna, reaching the old - channel of the Missouri at the middle of the island, follows it - to the confluence of the island's foot. This was the condition - in 1879 (see _Map of the Missouri River_, from the government - survey, plates xx and xxi), but the channels are constantly - shifting.--ED. - - - [167] Lewis and Clark applied the name "Bald Hills" to "the - ridge of naked hills" here described, and "Bald-pated Prairie" - to the low lands at their base.--ED. - - - [168] Lewis and Clarke, vol. i. p. 28.--JAMES. - - _Comment by Ed._ The reference is to Biddle's _History of the - Expedition under the Command of Captains Lewis and Clark to - the Sources of the Missouri_, etc. (Philadelphia, 1814). See - also Thwaites, _Original Journals of the Lewis and Clark - Expedition_ (New York, 1904). - - - [169] This velocity of current is equalled by that of - the Cassiquiare in South America, and probably surpassed by - the Oronoko, the average descent of whose bed is thirteen - inches to the mile of 950 toises (6 feet 4.376 inches per - toise). See Humb. Pers. Nar. vol. v. p. 637, and vol. iv. p. - 452. La Condamine and Major Rennel suppose the mean descent of - the Amazon and the Ganges, scarce four or five inches to the - mile, which is about equal to that of the Mississippi, - according to the most satisfactory estimates we have been able - to make.--JAMES. - - - [170] Platte River (sometimes called Flatwater and Nebraska, all - three names having the same meaning) is the largest tributary - of the Missouri. It joins the latter between Sarpy and Cass - counties, Nebraska, 640.8 miles from the Mississippi. Its - mouth is taken as the line between the "upper" and "lower" - Missouri.--ED. - - - [171] Species of apios, the glycine of Lin.--JAMES. - - - [172] See Bradbury's _Travels_, in our volume v, note 40.--ED. - - - [173] The Mosquito is on the Iowa side, in Pottawatomie County, - its mouth being a few miles below Council Bluffs. - - For the Oto Indians, Missouri Fur Company, and Manuel Lisa, - see Bradbury's _Travels_, in our volume v, notes 42, 149, 64 - respectively. Lisa established the post named for him, in - 1812, and for a decade it was the most important trading - station on the Missouri. It stood about twenty miles above the - present town of Council Bluffs (Iowa), on the opposite side of - the river.--ED. - - - - -{137} CHAPTER VIII - - Winter cantonment near Council Bluff--Councils with the Otoes, - Missouries, Ioways, Pawnees, &c. - - -The position selected for the establishment of winter quarters for -the exploring party, was on the west bank of the Missouri, about -half a mile above Fort Lisa, five miles below Council Bluff, and -three miles above the mouth of Boyer's river.[174] At this place -we anchored on the 19th of September, and in a few days had made -great progress in cutting timber, quarrying stone, and other -preparations for the construction of quarters. - -Cliffs of sparry limestone rise in the rear of the site we had -selected, to an elevation of near three hundred feet.[175] At -times of low water, strata of horizontal sandstone are disclosed -in the bed of the Missouri. These pass under and support the -limestone. Both these strata probably extend in connexion, some -distance to the west; but as they are deeply covered with soil, we -could not accurately ascertain their boundary in that direction. -On the map accompanying this work, we have traced a line running -from the Canadian river of the Arkansa, to the Elk Horn, between -96° and 98° west longitude, and marking what we supposed nearly -the westernmost limit of the horizontal limestones, and the -argillaceous sandstones, disclosed in the beds of the larger -rivers. - -{138} Both these strata embrace numerous relics of marine animals, -many of which we collected.[176] - -Immediately after our arrival, an interpreter had been sent across -the country, to intercept the traders then on their way to the -Pawnees, with considerable quantities of merchandize. It was -thought proper to suspend all intercourse with those Indians, -until an adjustment of the recent difficulties should take place. -In addition to the outrage committed on Mr. Say's party, they had -made prisoners of two white hunters from the Arkansa, a father and -son, who had been found hunting in the Indian territories. These -men had been liberated through the interference of some of the -members of the Missouri Fur Company, and had recently arrived at -Fort Lisa. During their captivity, they had been treated with -such severity by the Pawnees, that they had often entreated an end -might be put to their lives. - -The interpreter returned on the 20th, having accomplished the -object of his mission. Soon afterwards, Mr. Dougherty arrived from -the Oto village, whither he had been sent with a deputation to -Konzas, to aid in effecting a reconciliation between those -nations. This proposition, which originated with the Konzas, was -favourably received by the Otoes. Mr. D. was soon afterwards -despatched to the Pawnees, with instructions to demand of them the -property plundered from Mr. Say's party, also to require that the -persons who had committed that outrage should be given up. He was -accompanied by two Frenchmen acquainted with the Pawnees and their -language. - -A party of Otoes arrived at Fort Lisa on the 26th of September, -with pack-horses laden with pelfries, and bringing with them a -soldier, who, having been accidentally separated from a small -detachment that were driving some beeves from Martin's Cantonments, -towards Council Bluff, had wandered about in the prairie for five -days, without tasting food, {139} when he at last had the good -fortune to fall in with the Otoes, who hospitably fed and conducted -him to the trading house. - -The Council Bluff, so called by Lewis and Clarke, from a council -with the Otoes and Missouries held there on the 3d of August 1804, -is a remarkable bank rising abruptly from the brink of the river, -to an elevation of about one hundred and fifty feet. This is a -most beautiful position, having two important military features, -security, and a complete command of the river. Its defects are a -want of wood within a convenient distance, there being little -within a mile above, and much farther below, also a want of stone -and of water, except that of the river. From the summits of the -hills, about one mile in the rear of the bluff, is presented the -view of a most extensive and beautiful landscape. The bluffs on -the east side of the river exhibit a chain of peaks stretching as -far as the eye can reach. The river is here and there seen -meandering in serpentine folds, along its broad valley, chequered -with woodlands and prairies, while at a nearer view you look down -on an extensive plain interspersed with a few scattered copses or -bushes, and terminated at a distance by the Council Bluff. - -This position is about five miles above that selected for the -wintering post of the exploring party. At the last mentioned -place, a very narrow plain or beach, closely covered with trees, -intervenes between the immediate bank of the river and the bluffs, -which rise near two hundred feet, but are so gradually sloped as -to be ascended without great difficulty, and are also covered with -trees. This spot presented numerous advantages for the cantonment -of a small party like ours. Here were abundant supplies of wood -and stone, immediately on the spot where we wished to erect our -cabins, and the situation was sheltered by the high bluffs from -the north-west winds. The place was called Engineer Cantonment. -{140} On the 26th of September, Mr. Say and Mr. Jessup arrived in -the flotilla from Cow Island, in company with Col. Morgan, Dr. -Gale, and Captain Magee.[177] They had both nearly recovered their -health, and entertained the liveliest sense of the eminent -politeness and hospitality which had been conferred on them by the -above named gentlemen, as well as the other officers of the -military expedition. - -About one hundred Otoes, together with a deputation of the Ioway -nation, who had been summoned to a council by Major O'Fallon, -presented themselves at our camp on the 3d of October. The -principal chiefs advanced before their people, and upon invitation -seated themselves. After a short interval of silence Shonga-tonga, -the Big Horse, a large portly Indian of a commanding presence, -arose and said, "My father, your children have come to dance -before your tent, agreeably to our custom of honouring brave or -distinguished persons." - -After a suitable reply, by Major O'Fallon, the amusement of dancing -was commenced by the striking up of their rude instrumental and -vocal music; the former consisting of a gong made of a large keg, -over one of the ends of which a skin was stretched, which was -struck by a small stick; and another instrument, consisting of a -stick of firm wood, notched like a saw, over the teeth of which -a smaller stick was rubbed forcibly backward and forward; with -these, rude as they were, very good time was preserved with the -vocal performers who sat around them, and by all the natives as -they sat in the inflection of their bodies, or the movements of -their limbs; after the lapse of a little time three individuals -leaped up and danced around for a few minutes, then, at a concerted -signal from the master of the ceremonies, the music ceased, and -they retired to their seats uttering a loud noise, which by patting -the mouth rapidly with the hand, was broken into a succession of -similar sounds, somewhat like the hurried barking of a dog. Several -sets {141} of dancers succeeded, each terminating as the first. -In the intervals of the dances, a warrior would step forward and -strike a flagstaff they had erected with a stick, whip, or other -weapon, and recount his martial deeds. This ceremony is called -_striking the post_, and whatever is then said may be relied upon -as rigid truth, being delivered in the presence of many a jealous -warrior and witness, who could easily detect and would immediately -disgrace the _striker_ for exaggeration or falsehood. This is -called the beggars' dance, during which some presents are always -expected by the performers, as tobacco, whiskey, or trinkets. -But on this occasion, as none of those articles were immediately -offered, the amusement was not, at first, distinguished by much -activity. The master of the ceremonies continually called aloud -to them to exert themselves; but still they were somewhat dull -and backward. Ietan now stepped forward and lashed a post with -his whip, declaring that he would thus punish those who did not -dance; this threat from one whom they had vested with authority -for this occasion had a manifest effect upon his auditors, who -were presently highly wrought up by the sight of two or three -little mounds of tobacco twist which were now laid before them, and -appeared to infuse new life. - -After lashing the post and making his threat, Ietan went on to -narrate his martial exploits. He had stolen horses seven or eight -times from the Konzas; he had first struck the bodies of three of -that nation slain in battle. He had stolen horses from the Ietan -nation, and had struck one of their dead. He had stolen horses -from the Pawnees, and struck the body of one Pawnee Loup. He had -stolen horses several times from the Omawhaws, and once from the -Puncas. He had struck the bodies of two Sioux. On a war party, in -company with the Pawnees, he had attacked the Spaniards and -penetrated into one of their camps; the Spaniards, {142} excepting -a man and boy, fled; himself being at a distance before his party, -he was shot at and missed by the man, whom he immediately shot -down and struck. "This, my father," said he, "is the only martial -act of my life that I am ashamed of."[178] After several rounds of -dancing, and of striking at the post by the warriors, Mi-a-ke-ta, -or the Little Soldier, a war-worn veteran, took his turn to strike -the post. He leaped actively about, and strained his voice to its -utmost pitch whilst he portrayed some of the scenes of blood in -which he had acted. He had struck dead bodies of individuals of -all the red nations around, Osages, Konzas, Pawnee Loups, Pawnee -Republicans, Grand Pawnees, Puncas, Omawhaws, and Sioux, Padoucas, -La Plais or Bald Heads, Ietans, Sauks, Foxes, and Ioways;[179] he -had struck eight of one nation, seven of another, &c. He was -proceeding with his account when Ietan ran up to him, put his hand -upon his mouth, and respectfully led him to his seat. This act was -no trifling compliment paid to the well-known brave. It indicated -that he had still so many glorious acts to speak of, that he would -occupy so much time as to prevent others from speaking, and put to -shame the other warriors by the contrast of his actions with -theirs. - -Their physical action in dancing is principally confined to -leaping a small distance from the ground with both feet, the body -being slightly inclined, and upon alighting, an additional slight -but sudden inclination of the body is made, so as to appear like -a succession of jerks; or the feet are raised alternately, the -motions of the body being the same. Such are the movements, in -which the whole party correspond; but in the figures, as they are -termed in our assembly rooms, each individual performs a separate -part, and each part is a significant pantomimic narrative. In all -their variety of action they are careful to observe the musical -cadences. In this dance Ietan represented one who was in the act -of stealing {143} horses. He carried a whip in his hand, as did -a considerable number of the Indians, and around his neck were -thrown several leathern thongs, for bridles and halters, the ends -of which trailed upon the ground behind him; after many preparatory -manoeuvres, he stooped down, and with his knife represented the act -of cutting the _hopples_ of horses; he then rode his tomahawk, as -children ride their broomsticks, making such use of his whip as -to indicate the necessity of rapid movement lest his foes should -overtake him. Wa-sa-ba-jing-ga, or Little Black Bear, after a -variety of gestures, threw several arrows in succession over his -head, thereby indicating his familiarity with the flight of such -missiles; he at the same time covered his eyes with his hand to -indicate that he was blind to danger. Others represented their -manoeuvres in battle, seeking their enemy, discharging at him their -guns or arrows, &c. &c. Most of the dancers were the principal -warriors of the nation, men who had not condescended to amuse -themselves or others in this manner for years before; but they -now appeared in honour of the occasion, and to conciliate in the -best manner the good will of the representative of the government -of the Big-knives.[180] Amongst these veteran warriors Ietan, or -Sha-mon-e-kus-se, Ha-she-a, the broken arm, commonly called Cut -Nose, and Wa-sa-ba-jing-ga, or Little Black Bear, three youthful -leaders, in particular attracted our attention. In consequence -of having been appointed soldiers on this occasion, to preserve -order, they were painted entirely black. The countenance of the -former indicated much wit, and had in its expression something -of the character of that of Voltaire; he frequently excited the -mirth of those about him by his remarks and gestures. Ha-she-a, -called Cut Nose, in consequence of having lost the tip of his nose -in a quarrel[181] with Ietan, wore a handsome robe of white wolf -skin, with an appendage behind him, called a _crow_. This singular -decoration is a large cushion, made of the skin of a crow, {144} -stuffed with any light material, and variously ornamented; it has -two decorated sticks projecting from it upward, and a pendant -one beneath; this apparatus is secured upon the buttocks by a -girdle passing round the body. The other actors in the scene were -decorated with paints of several colours fantastically disposed -upon their persons. Several were painted with white clay, which -had the appearance of being grooved in many places. This grooved -appearance is given by drawing the finger nails over the part so -as to remove the pigment from thence in parallel lines. These -lines are either rectilinear, undulated, or zigzag; sometimes -passing over the forehead transversely or vertically; sometimes in -the same directions, or obliquely over the whole visage, or upon -the breast, arms, &c. Many were painted with red clay, in which -the same lines appeared. A number of them had the representation -of a black hand with outspread fingers, on different parts of the -body, strongly contrasting with the principal colour with which the -body was overspread; the hand was depicted in different positions -upon the face, breast, and back. The face of others was coloured, -one half black, and one half white, or red and white, &c.; many -coloured their hair with red clay; but the eye-lids and base of -the ears were generally tinged with vermilion. At the conclusion -of the ceremony, whiskey, which they always expect on similar -occasions, was produced, and a small portion was given to each. The -principal chiefs of the different nations, who had remained passive -spectators of the scene, now directed their people to return to -their camp. The word of the chiefs was obeyed, excepting by a few -of the Ioways, who appeared to be determined to keep their places -notwithstanding the reiterated command of the chiefs. Ietan now -sprang towards them, with an expression of much ferocity in his -countenance, and it is probable a tragic scene would have been -displayed had not the chiefs {145} requested him to use gentle -means, and thus he succeeded, after which the chiefs withdrew. - -October 4th. At ten o'clock, the hour appointed for the council, -the Indians, headed by their chiefs, arrived; and after shaking us -all by the hand took their seats. There were about one hundred -Otoes, seventy Missouries, and fifty or sixty Ioways. They -arranged themselves, agreeably to their tribes, on puncheon -benches, which had been prepared for them, and which described a -semicircle, on the chord of which sat the whites, with Major -O'Fallon and his interpreters in the centre. Sentinels walked to -and fro behind the benches; and a handsome standard waved before -the assembly. The council was opened by a few rounds from the -howitzers. A profound silence reigned for a few minutes, when -Major O'Fallon arose, and in a very animated and energetic manner -addressed his Indian auditors. Suitable replies were given by -Shonga-tonga, the Crenier, and others, with all the extravagant -gesticulation which is one of the prominent features of Indian -oratory. - - [Illustration: Oto Council] - -At the termination of the council, presents were made of blankets, -kettles, strouding, tobacco, guns, powder, and ball, &c. The Big -Horse and the Crenier only were acknowledged as chiefs, and to the -latter, who did not possess a large medal, one was given in -exchange for a smaller one which he possessed. No chief was -acknowledged amongst the Missouries, as it is the wish of Major -O'Fallon to extinguish as much as possible national prejudices -between these two nations or tribes. - -Cut Nose now presented to the agent his crow and bison robe -ornamented with hieroglyphicks. The Little Black Bear presented -his robe of white wolf and bison skin, and a pair of handsome -leggings. The Black Bird presented a robe and the serrated -instrument of music before mentioned, observing, significantly, -that the latter was then the only weapon {146} he possessed with -which he could defend his father. - -October 5th. Last evening Loutre, an old Missouri Indian died; he -had spoken in the council a few hours before, and remarked then -that he had not long to live. He was buried without ceremony near -the trading house. - -October 9th. Messengers who had been sent yesterday for the -Pawnees returned, having met with them on the Elk Horn creek, -twenty-five miles distant, on their way hither.[182] They arrived -about noon, seventy in number, consisting of individuals of each -of the three tribes, called Grand Pawnees, Pawnee Republicans, and -Pawnee Loups, or Pawnemahas, and halted at some distance from our -camp. As we approached them we observed the majority of them -standing in a forest of young willow trees, holding their mules by -the bridles, and looking dubiously around. The chief of the -principal band, Long Hair, was haranguing them in a loud voice, -"Take off your saddles; why do you stand peeping and trembling in -the bushes? you ought to have trembled when the whites were seen -near the Konza village, &c." We saluted the principal men in the -usual manner of shaking by the hand, though not with much -cordiality. Major O'Fallon then said, "Pawnees, encamp here and -smoke your pipes in security; you have conducted yourselves badly, -but the whites will not harm the red-skins when they have them -thus in their power; we fight in the plains, and scorn to injure -men seated peaceably by their fires. Think well of what you will -have to say to me in council to-morrow." These assurances appeared -to annul their present apprehensions, and they proceeded to -encamp. - -Three boats came from Camp Missouri to take on board a quantity -of provisions which are stored here for the troops; we exchanged -salutes with them. The noise of the artillery excited the -apprehensions of the {147} Indians; who, being sensible of having -grossly offended the whites, now anticipated some exemplary -punishment, and were not at ease until reassured of their safety, -and the cause of the firing of such great guns so near them was -explained. - -In the evening, accompanied by several gentlemen of the party, we -visited the camp of the Pawnees, whom we found sitting round their -fires, smoking their pipes in silence. Some were employed in making -bows, having found plenty of hickory, and hop horn beam wood here, -which are not to be procured in the vicinity of their villages. -Their mules were tied to trees, feeding on the bark of the cotton -wood. The three tribes were seated around different fires. We sat -down in the group of Grand Pawnees, and smoked with their chief -Tar-ra-re-ca-wa-o, or Long Hair. This [is] an hereditary chief, -of a lofty and rather haughty mien; his mouth is, perhaps through -habit, drawn down a little at the corners. He has the appearance -and character of an intrepid man, although not distinguished as -a warrior, having, during his life, killed but a single man, -who was a Spaniard. He is, however, artful and politic, and has -performed some laudable actions. The following anecdote may serve -in part to illustrate the more amiable traits of his character. -Dorion, a Mestizo,[183] on a trading expedition, had accumulated a -considerable quantity of peltry, at the Pawnee republican village, -when it was situated on the Republican fork of the Konza river. -As he had no horses to transport his merchandize, he requested the -chief of that village to assist him in conveying it to the Grand -Pawnees on the Platte, as he intended to descend that river to -trade with the Otoes, on his way to St. Louis; the chief directly -ordered horses to be brought, the furs were packed upon them, and -they departed on the journey; but owing to some alleged misconduct -on the part of Dorion, the chief, when half way, ordered the goods -to be taken from the horses, and to be left on the plain. {148} -He then, with his followers, returned to his village. The trader, -after bewailing his unfortunate condition, at length resolved to -go to the Grand Pawnee village and solicit the aid of Long Hair. -Having arrived at the residence of the chief, he related to him in -what manner he had been used by the Republican chief, and concluded -by requesting assistance to bring in his goods. Long Hair, without -reply, ascended to the top of his lodge and called out to his -people to bring him one hundred horses. Taking the best of these, -and a sufficient number of attendants, he accompanied Dorion, and -assisted him to transport all his peltries, and did not cease with -his good offices, until he had aided him in building a skin canoe, -and had packed all the merchandize aboard, although previously -told by Dorion that he had nothing to reward him with, having, as -he said, traded every thing away, though at the same moment he had -a number of Indian goods concealed in his packs of buffalo robes. -After all was completed, "Now," said the chief, "Dorion, I know -that you are a bad man; I have no doubt but you have a quantity of -such goods as we want, concealed in those packs, and could reward -me if you were liberal enough; but I ask nothing: you have a forked -tongue. You have abused me to the whites, by calling me a rascal, -saying I robbed the traders, &c.; but go, I will not harm you; tell -the red head (Governor Clarke) that I am a rascal, robber, &c., I -am content."[184] - -At another fire, surrounded by his particular band, sat the Knife -Chief, La-che-le-cha-ru, principal chief of the Pawneemahas. He is -a large portly man, with a very prepossessing countenance; the -hair on the sides of his head is gray; he has a deep scar on the -right side, from a wound which was inflicted by a female prisoner, -of the Padouca nation, whom he had adopted and taken into his -family. This squaw, becoming infuriated at the prospect of the -state of slavery to which she supposed herself now reduced, {149} -stabbed her child to the heart, mortally wounded the brother of -this chief, and, before she could be despatched, had inflicted -this wound, through which the bowels protruded. The individuals of -this band live in great harmony amongst themselves, owing probably -to their having but two chiefs, who are unrivalled. The second -chief is a Mestizo. Against this band we have no accusation; they -have always demeaned themselves well towards the American whites. - -In a third group were collected the representatives of the Pawnee -Republicans; this nation or clan stands accused of whipping, -robbing, and otherwise abusing a white American and his son, whom -they found trapping beaver on the Arkansa river, this season; of -killing two American citizens, two years since, who were also -trapping beaver on the same river; and of robbing our party of -sundry articles and horses, near the Konza village, whilst under -the protection of the flag of our country, of the nature of which -they had been instructed, and perfectly well understood. These -outrages, and many others, they had committed on lands, to which -they do not pretend to have any claim, situated far from their own -territories, and in the immediate vicinity of nations with whom -they then were, and still are, at war.[185] - -On the following day the Pawnees were summoned to council, and in -a short time they appeared marching leisurely in a narrow pathway, -in _Indian file_, led by the grand chief; near this pathway the -musical band was stationed, and when Long Hair arrived opposite, -they struck up, suddenly and loudly, a martial air. We wished to -observe the effect which instruments, that he had never seen or -heard before, would produce on this distinguished man, and -therefore {150} eyed him closely, and were not disappointed to -observe that he did not deign to look upon them, or to manifest, -by any motion whatever, that he was sensible of their presence. -The Indians arranged themselves on the benches prepared for them, -and the cessation of the music was succeeded by stillness, which -was suddenly interrupted by loud explosions from our howitzers, -that startled many of us, but did not appear to attract the notice -of the Pawnees. - -Major O'Fallon rose and addressed them in a very austere tone and -manner; stating the offences they had committed against the white -people, and admonishing them to a reformation in their conduct, -and to restore the articles they had stolen from us; this was -chiefly directed against the Pawnee Republicans; the Loups were -applauded for their uniformly good deportment. - - [Illustration: Pawnee Council] - -The council terminated after much of the property taken from us -near the Konza village was restored, and a promise given that the -offenders should be punished by whipping.[186] - -The leisure we enjoyed after our arrival at Engineer Cantonment, -afforded the opportunity of making numerous excursions to collect -animals, and to explore the neighbouring country. We give here -some account of two species of sorex, taken near our cabins.[187] - - -Early in October the cabins for winter-quarters were completed. -Having made arrangements for the subsistence of the party, and -being about to return to Washington, Major Long issued orders to -the officers and gentlemen of the expedition, for their government -during his absence. The following extract will show to what -objects they were instructed to direct their attention. - - "Mr. Say will have every facility afforded him that circumstances - will admit to examine the country, {151} visit the neighbouring - Indians, procure animals, &c. for the attainment of which - he will call on Lt. Graham, who is authorized to make any - expenditures in behalf of the expedition that may be deemed - reasonable and necessary, and afford any aid in his power, - consistent with the performance of other duties. Mr. Seymour or - Mr. Peale will accompany him, whenever their services are deemed - requisite. - - "Major O'Fallon has given permission to Mr. Dougherty to aid the - gentlemen of the party, in acquiring information concerning - the Indians, &c.; this gentleman will, therefore, be consulted - in relation to visits, and all kinds of intercourse with the - Indians, that may be necessary in the prosecution of the duties - of the expedition. - - "In regard to these duties, the gentlemen of the expedition will - consult my orders of March last. The documents transmitted from - the Philosophical Society of Philadelphia, by the Secretary of - War; and the instructions of Mr. Jefferson to Capt. Lewis, to - be found in vol. 1st of Lewis and Clarke's expedition,[188] and - regulate their observations and inquiries accordingly. - - "Lt. Graham will embrace every opportunity for celestial and - barometric observations, and calculate the latitude, longitude, - magnetic dip and variation, with the utmost attainable - precision; also the heights of the neighbouring hills, and - the adjacent high table lands. He will also continue the - meteorologic observations as usual, noticing the changes of - weather, and all celestial and atmospheric phenomena. To aid - him in these duties, he will call on Lieut. Swift, or any other - gentleman of the expedition, who may not be particularly engaged - at the time in other important duties. - - "It is believed, that the field for observation and inquiry is - here so extensive, that all the gentlemen of the expedition - will find ample range for the exercise of their talents in - their respective pursuits; and it is {152} hoped, that through - their unremitted exertions and perseverance, a rich harvest of - useful intelligence will be acquired." - -On the 11th of October, Major Long and Mr. Jessup took leave of -their friends at Engineer Cantonment, and accompanied by several -other persons, began to descend the Missouri in a canoe, on their -way towards Washington and Philadelphia. - - -FOOTNOTES: - - [174] The camp was in the southeast corner of Washington - County, Nebraska. Boyer River rises in Sac County, Iowa, flows - southwest through Crawford and Harrison counties, and debouches - in Pottawatomie County, nearly opposite the boundary between - Washington and Douglas counties, Nebraska.--ED. - - - [175] Height of the bluff, ascertained by Lieutenant Graham. - - Trigonometrically, 271 feet. - Barometrically, 277 feet. --JAMES. - - - [176] We add some notices of a few of the most - important. - - 1. _Terebratula._--A specimen considerably resembling the T. - _subundata_ of Sowerby, in the undulated line of the edges of - the valves; but it is a much more depressed shell, and of a - much less rounded form. - - In the young state, the undulation of the edge is not very - distinct; but this character increases with age, so that in - the young state, it appears like a totally different species - from the adult. - - 2. In the same rock are very numerous arquated spines, like - ribs of fish, some of them 1-1/2 inches long. - - 3. A fragment of a terebratula or productus, imbedded, with - very long spines, which may possibly be the same with the - above. - - 4. A specimen, being a mass of comminuted fragments of shells, - amongst which are only recognizable a few segments of the - column of the encrinus, and minute turretted univalves of five - whirls, which resemble turritella, and are about one-twentieth - of an inch long. - - 5. _Millepora cylindrica_, SAY.--Branched, cylindric; _pores_ - very regular, alternate, oval, placed nearer to each other - than the length of their own transverse diameters, and - resembling those of an _alveolite_. - - Diameter, about one-tenth of an inch. - - 6. Segments of the column of encrinus of authors, of a - pentangular form. - - 7. Ossiculæ of the body of a crinoid animal of the analogous - species to No. 21. - - 8. Fragment of Perna? - - 9. A mass of argillaceous sandstone, containing spines of a - Linnæan echinus, belonging probably to the genus cidarites - of Lamarck. Of these spines some are elongate-conic, others - slightly fusiform, obtuse and slightly dilated near the - tip, both are armed with short asperities throughout their - length. They resemble in some degree those of the _cidarites - pistillaris_ of Lamarck, but they are smaller, less fusiform, - and the asperities are not prominent. - - In the same mass are segments of encrinus, and fragments of the - retepore. - - 10. Retepore, much resembling the _milleporites flustriformis_ - of Martin, Petrif. Derbi. pl. 43. fig. 1 and 2., but the - alveoles in our specimens are rather smaller. - - 11. _Millepora cylindrica_, SAY.--Of the diameter of half an - inch. - - 12. _Productus subserratus_, SAY.--Shell transverse, convex - valve semicircular, destitute of asperities or striæ, - longitudinally indented in the middle; line of the hinge - rectilinear, half as long again as the length of the shell, with - three or four spines or serratures on each side towards the - angle; _umbo_ not prominent; the beak hardly prominent beyond - the line of the hinge. Length, more than three-tenths; breadth, - more than half an inch. A large specimen was four-fifths of an - inch wide. - - If we except the beak, the outline of this shell, as respects - the hinge margin and the sides, considerably resembles that of - P. _spinulosus_ of Sowerby, but the base is far more obtusely - rounded, and it is a shorter shell comparatively with its - width. The serratures are very often broken off. The curvature - of the sides does not in the slightest degree project beyond - the angles of the hinge line. - - 13. An imperfect cast, very like the _terebratula subundata_ - of Sowerby, and of equal magnitude. - - 14. Pentagonal ossiculæ of the trunk of encrinus of authors, - which in outline may be compared to figs. 61 and 62, of plate - 13. vol. 2. of Parkinson's Organic Remains, but their surfaces - do not now exhibit any sculpture. - - 15. Many of these shells exhibit the most unequivocal - evidences of having been in a plastic state, at some period or - other, since their deposition in their present situations. The - fine striæ of a _productus lineolatus_, are so interlaced on - the middle of a valve of one of our specimens, as at once to - convince every observer of the shell having been thus - partially dissolved, and when in this state to have been - gently rubbed by some other body, in two directions proceeding - obliquely to the same point, so as to throw the striæ in that - part entirely out of their proper longitudinal direction. It - is very common to find shells unnaturally flattened, or - compressed in various ways and degrees, often without any - fracture in the shell or cast; a circumstance which certainly - could never happen to the shell, unless it was in a plastic - state, or in a state of partial solution. - - 16. A specimen of carbonate of lime, on its surface a mass of - sub-parallel tubes, connected by short lateral processes. The - whole much resembles, and is probably congeneric with the - erismatholithus tubiporites (_catenatus_) of Martin's Petrif. - Derbi. t. 42. fig. 2., but the connecting processes of the - tubes are much shorter than they are represented in that - figure; but it corresponds much more exactly with the - tubiporite, figured by Parkinson in his Organic Remains, vol. - 2. pl. 1. f. 1., and may with great propriety form a new - genus, the type of which will be the tubipora strues of Lin. - - The genus is probably allied to favosites and tubipora. - - 17. _Trilobus._--The abdomen of a species of this singular - genus frequently occurs in the sandstone of the Missouri; near - Engineer Cantonment they were very common. The largest was - rather more than one inch long, by about one and three-tenths - inches in breadth at base; but the more general length is - about three-fourths of an inch. The tergum or intermediate - lobe is narrow, being not more than two-thirds of the width of - the flanks, and much more convex than those parts. - - But a single specimen occurred, which we can, without any - doubt, consider as the thorax of a trilobus; but whether or - not it appertains to the same species with the above, or to - some other of which we have no other fragment, we are at a - loss to determine. Like the above-mentioned abdomen, it is - distinct from any that we have seen figures of. It is of a - narrow lunate form, highly convex, the disk destitute of - sculpture, and the eyes prominent. - - 18. Many imperfect casts of two different kinds of bivalve - shells occur near Engineer Cantonment, of which one may - possibly have been a _cardita_. - - 19. Tooth of a squalus, which seems to approach nearest to - those of _Sq. maximus_, by its compressed conic form. - - Greatest length 2-1/10 inches. - - Thickness more than 2/5 of an inch. - - The sides are rounded, without any appearance of serratures; - thickened near the tip, and more compressed near the base. - - 20. Tooth of a squalus, something like that of _S. galeus_, - but less of a triangular form, and the lateral processes are - more distinct, and also less triangular than in that species. - - 21. An imperfect body of a crinoid animal, _encrinite_ of - authors; the fragment is about one-half of the inferior - portion of the body, from which the following description is - made out, taking into view the whole circumference. The plates - composing the _first costal_ series (Miller), five in number, - are longitudinally pentangular, much curved inwards towards - the base, to join the _first columnar joint_, or perhaps the - _pelvis_; at which part the plate is narrow, being about - one-ninth of an inch, whilst the other sides are nearly - three-tenths of an inch each, the superior ones being somewhat - longer than the others; the _second costal plates_, (Miller,) - five in number, are transversely pentangular, the superior - joint being long, the lateral ones shortest, the former being - one-half an inch in length, the latter 3/20, and the inferior - sides which articulate to the segments of the pelvis, somewhat - less than 3/10 of an inch; the margins of the first costal - joints, as well as the superior margins of the segments of the - pelvis, are armed with a few tubercles, some of which seem to - have been perforated; all the superior pieces are wanting in - our specimen, but the truncated surface, on which the - _scapulars_ (Miller) rested, is of a pentagonal outline, and - composed of a series of horizontal equilateral triangles, two - to each side, which are separated on each side from the - adjacent pairs by a deep groove, which corresponds, and is - nearly at right angles with the exterior sutures, which join - the first costal joints to each other; these triangular - surfaces are also separated from the exterior edge by two - grooves, which are crenated, and enclose an oblong foramina - between them; a single _intercostal plate_ occurs, interposed - between two of the _second costals_; it is of an oblong - hexagonal form, its base resting upon the extremity of a - segment of the _first costals_, which is truncated to receive - it; the superior portion of this plate is much bent inward - towards the abdominal cavity; its tip is quadrate and concave. - - The whole exterior surface of this reliquium, with the - exception of the tubercles, and sutural impressed lines, is - plain and equable. - - If we have not mistaken the pieces of this imperfect specimen, - the pelvis is wanting, but the cavity in which it existed must - have been about 3/20 of an inch in diameter. - - The plate-like form of the ossiculæ, and their mode of - articulation with each other, by an extension horizontally - inwards, as we have described above, in the case of those - plates which we have considered as the _second costals_, seem - to indicate, that this species ought to be referred to the - second division of the crinoidea, or _semiarticulata_ of - Miller. It certainly, however, cannot be at all referred to - poteriocrinites, the only genus which that author has framed - in this division of the family. We refrain from distinguishing - it by a name either generic or specific, until other specimens - can be obtained, in which the characters are less equivocal. - - We have two _second costal plates_, which made part of - distinct individuals, larger than the above described one. Of - these the surface of one is perfectly glabrous, whilst that of - the other has light orbicular indentations instead of - tubercles; a third very small one is perfectly smooth like the - first, and doubtless formed part of the body of a young - individual. - - Another plate found near the same spot with the above, is of a - somewhat triangular form exteriorly, or rather like the face - of a truncated pyramid, of which the middle of the summit is a - little produced in the form of a right angle, thus offering a - scollop on each side of the apex for the adaptation of - superior ossiculæ. On divesting it carefully of its extraneous - matrix, we discovered that it was readily adjusted by its base - to the summit of those segments of the fragment above - described, which we have supposed to be _second costals_, a - prominent line on its base corresponding with the inner one of - those grooves which we have described, to characterize the - superior face of those plates. This plate, then, agreeably to - the relations in which we have viewed the preceding pieces, - must be a _scapula_; it is susceptible of considerable - hinge-like motion, and appears to have been much less firmly - attached to the costals than the latter are to each other. - - A segment of a crinoid animal, which seemed to have been a - _first costal joint_ of a _pentacrinus_ of Parkinson, occurred - near the same place. - - 22. _Productus pectinoides_, SAY.--Convex valve, with a - central longitudinal indentation; the whole surface is - longitudinally ribbed, each rib being marked by two striæ, in - addition to the central carina. - - The shell is not of frequent occurrence, and a perfect - specimen has not yet been obtained, but the portions we have - examined, are sufficient to show that it is perfectly distinct - from either of the species we have mentioned. We do not find - any species figured or described by authors like it. - - 23. _Productus compressus_, SAY.--Shell much compressed, with - numerous acute striæ, upwards of fifty in number on each - valve, the alternate ones rather smaller; a very slight - central longitudinal indentation on the convex valve; outline - suborbicular; hinge edge rectilinear, shorter than the - greatest breadth of the shell. - - Greatest breadth from 3/5 to 1 inch. In its proportions it - resembles the truncated portion of the productus of Martin, as - represented on his plate 22. fig. 3. It is very common. - - 24. A shell of the length and breadth of three inches - sometimes occurs, the convex valve of which is transversely - undulated, its umbo prominent, and curved like that of a - gryphæa, its tip resting on the base of the opposite valve - which is concave, with a transverse linear base; its muscular - impressions seem to have been lateral. - - 25. A single specimen was found of a valve of a shell, in some - degree resembling a pecten, but without the auricles. Length - more than 2-3/10 inches. - - 26. _Productus lineolatus_, SAY.--Valves with numerous, fine, - equal, equidistant, longitudinal striæ, and a few small - tubercles; convex valve very much elongated, its basal portion - is curved downwards, almost perpendicularly with respect to - the disk near the umbones. - - So singular is the structure of this shell, that the internal - cavity appears to have been perfectly transverse, with respect - to the general length of the shell, and small in comparison - with the length. It strongly resembles the anomites productus - of Martin, as represented on plate 22. fig. 102. of his - Petrif. Derbi., and like that shell it is armed with small - tubercles, though fewer in number, and the striæ are much more - numerous and smaller. - - 27. Cast of a turretted univalve, probably a cerithium, of the - length of 2-1/2 inches. - - 28. Cast of the anterior portion of a valve of a shell like an - ostrea, of the breadth of 2-1/2 inches. - - 29. On the Missouri near the Platte, occur masses of rock, - which seem to be almost exclusively composed of a remarkable - petrifaction, belonging to the family of concamerated shells. - This shell is elongated, fusiform, and when broken transversely, - it exhibits the appearance of numerous cells disposed spirally - as in the _nummulite_, but its longitudinal section displays - only deep grooves. The shell was therefore composed of tubes or - syphons, placed parallel to each other, and revolving laterally, - as in the genus _melonis_ of Lamarck, with which its characters - undoubtedly correspond. But as in the transverse fracture, its - spiral system of tubes cannot be traced to the centre in any - of the numerous specimens we have examined, it would seem to - have a solid axis, and consequently belongs to that division of - the genus that Montfort regards as distinct, under the name of - _miliolites_, which seems to be similar to the _fasciolites_ - of Parkinson, and altogether different from the miliolites - of Lamarck. Our specimens are conspicuously striated on the - exterior, which distinction, together with their elongated - fusiform shape, sufficiently distinguish them as a species - from the _sabulosus_ which Montfort describes as the type of - his genus. No aperture is discoverable in this shell, but the - termination of the exterior volution very much resembles an - aperture as long as the shell. - - The length is three-tenths of an inch; and its greatest breadth - one-twelfth. - - We call it _miliolites secalicus_, SAY.--Mr. T. Nuttall - informs me, that he observed it in great quantities high up - the Missouri. - - In the same mass were some segments of the encrinus, and a - terebratula with five or six obtuse longitudinal waves. - - 30. Another petrifaction, abundant in some fragments of compact - carbonate of lime, also found on the shores of the Missouri, - possesses all the generic characters which we have attributed - to the preceding species, excepting that in the transverse - fracture the cells distinctly revolve from the centre itself, - and of course the shell was destitute of the solid nucleus as in - melonis, _Lamarck_. It has about four volutions. We have named - this species, which is, notwithstanding the difference of the - central portion of the same genus with the preceding _miliolites - centralis, Say_. As in the preceding, it is entirely filled - solidly with carbonate of lime, and this substance being of a - greater purity in the filled-up cavities of the fossil than in - the mass, its interior divisions are very obvious. - - The latter species we observed about one hundred miles up the - Konzas river, where it forms the chief body of the rocks in - extensive ranges. It seems to be a carbonate of lime containing - iron.--JAMES. - - - [177] John Gale, of New Hampshire, was surgeon in the rifles. - He entered the army in 1812, as surgeon's mate in the 23d - Infantry. After an honorable discharge in 1815, he was the same - year reinstated as surgeon's mate in the 3d Infantry, and in - 1818 made surgeon in the rifles. Three years later he became - major-surgeon. He died in 1830. - - Matthew J. Magee was captain of a Pennsylvania company of - volunteers during the first two years of the War of 1812-15. - In 1814 he was made captain in the 4th Rifles. After being - discharged at the close of the war, he was reinstated (1816) - as first lieutenant of ordnance with brevet rank as captain. A - little later he was made captain, and in 1818 was transferred - to the rifles. In 1821 he was transferred to the infantry. His - death occurred in 1824.--ED. - - - [178] Ietan, as he was called by the whites, is said to have - been the son of Big Horse (Shonga-tonga). The name may have been - given him for some exploit against the Ietan (Comanche) tribe. - His Indian name (Shamonekusse, Shongmunecuthe) means Prairie - Wolf. In 1821-22 Ietan accompanied a deputation of chiefs to the - East; the Indians made careful observations of what they saw, - after their own fashion, and, it is said, attempted to count the - people of New York by means of notched sticks. Among his fellows - Ietan was noted for his wit and sagacity, as well as for warlike - prowess. His death resulted (April, 1837) from a wound received - while pursuing some young braves who had seduced two of his - wives.--ED. - - - [179] The Ietan Indians, more commonly known as Comanche, were - a branch of the Shoshoni family. Their range was the upper - Arkansas, Canadian, and Red rivers. - - On the Pawnee and Pawnee Loups, see respectively Brackenridge's - _Journal_, in our volume vi, note 17, and Bradbury's _Travels_, - in our volume v, note 44. The Pawnee nation consisted of four - principal tribes: 1. Pawnee proper (Grand Pawnee); 2. Pawnee - Republican, who dwelt on the Republican fork of Kansas River; 3. - Tapage, on the Platte; 4. Pawnee Loups (Skidi; Pani-mahas). - - The Omaha and Ponca were closely related tribes of Siouan stock. - For their early history and present condition, see our volume v, - notes 49, 63. - - The Sioux (Dakota) were the chief branch of the great family - to which they have given their name. The branch was divided - into a number of tribes, including the Yankton and Teton, - mentioned below in the text. - - Sketches of the Osage, Sauk and Foxes, and Iowa will be found - in our volume v, notes 21, 22. - - The Padouca were a powerful tribe when visited by Bourgmont in - 1724 (see succeeding volume, note 29), but the nation - disintegrated and lost its identity before the close of the - eighteenth century, if, indeed, the name was not from the - beginning applied collectively to several kindred tribes of - the plains. Their habitat was the banks of the upper Kansas - River; later they removed to the Platte, the North Fork of - which is sometimes designated by their name. - - The Indians here called La Plais (La Playes) were reported by - Lewis and Clark (_Statistical View_) to be a numerous tribe of - Shoshoni stock, inhabiting the plains at the heads of the - Arkansas and Red rivers. Later authorities seem not to have - distinguished them from the kindred Comanche.--ED. - - - [180] The Indian name for Americans. On the origin of - the term, see Thwaites, _Daniel Boone_ (New York, 1902), p. - 111, note.--ED. - - - [181] This quarrel, and the resulting loss of part of - the nose of one of the contestants, has given rise to a number - of fables. In one of them Ietan and his brother are the - combatants, and it is Ietan who loses the tip of his nose. In - his thirst for revenge he pursues his brother across the - plains and through the forest, both in friendly and hostile - villages, only to fall a prey to bitter remorse when, after - many months, he overtakes the fugitive and slays him.--ED. - - - [182] Elkhorn River (Corne de Cerf, of the French explorers) is - a considerable northern tributary of the Platte, into which it - falls on the western line of Sarpy County. The head waters are - only a few miles from the Niobrara River, in Rock County.--ED. - - - [183] One of the half-breed sons of Pierre Dorion (Durion), - who accompanied Lewis and Clark as interpreter. See Bradbury's - _Travels_, in our volume v, note 7.--ED. - - - [184] Red-head was the customary Indian name for Governor - William Clark, and St. Louis was "Red-head's Town." For sketch - of Clark, see Nuttall's _Journal_, in our volume xiii, note - 105.--ED. - - - [185] It was a party of the Grand Pawnees that robbed and - ill-treated Lieutenant Pike and his party, when traversing the - country within their range.--JAMES. - - - [186] See Appendix C at the end of volume xvii.--ED. - - - [187] 1. _Sorex parvus_, SAY.--Brownish cinereous above; beneath - cinereous; teeth blackish; tail short, of moderate thickness. - - _Body_ above brownish cinereous, beneath cinereous; _head_ - elongated; _eyes_ and _ears_ concealed; _whiskers_ long, the - longest nearly attaining the back of the head; _nose_ naked - emarginate; _front teeth_ black, lateral ones piceous; _feet_ - whitish, five-toed; _nails_ prominent, acute, white; _tail_ - short, subcylindric, of moderate thickness, slightly thicker in - the middle, whitish beneath. - - Length from tip of nose to root of tail, 2 3/8 inches. - Length of tail, 0 3/4 inches. - Length from the upper teeth to tip of nose, 0 3/20 inches. - - Mr. Peale caught this animal in a pitfall, which he had dug - for the purpose of catching a wolf. It is a female. - - Barton, in his Medical and Physical Journal for 1806, p. 67, - says, that, "Sorex minutissimus of Zimmerman, has been - discovered in the trans-Mississippi part of the United States, - in the country that is watered by the Missouri;"--had he - reference to this species? - - This _sorex minutissimus_, is probably synonymous with S. - _exilis_, to which our specimens cannot be referred, whilst - the character attributed to that species, of "tail very thick - in the middle," is considered essential. - - 2. _Sorex brevicaudus_, SAY.--Blackish-plumbeous above, - beneath rather lighter; teeth, blackish; tail, short, robust. - - Total length from nose to tip of tail, 4-5/8 inch. - Total length of the tail, 1 inch. - Total length from the upper teeth to the tip of nose, 0-1/8 inch. - - _Above_ blackish plumbeous, when viewed from before; silvery - plumbeous when viewed from behind; _fur_ dense, rather long; - _beneath_ rather paler; _head_ large; _eyes_ very minute; - _ears_ white, entirely concealed beneath the fur, aperture very - large, with two distinct semisepta, (tragus and antitragus?) - which are sparsely hairy at tip; _rostrum_ short, with a - slightly impressed, abbreviated line above; _nose_ livid brown, - emarginate; _mouth_ margined with whitish and with sparse short - hairs; _teeth_ piceous-black at tip; _feet_, white, the second, - third, and fourth toes subequal, the first and fifth shorter, - the former rather shortest, anterior with but very few hairs, - nearly naked; _nails_ nearly as long as the toes; _tail_ with - rather sparse hairs, nearly of equal diameter, but slightly - thickest in the middle, depressed, and nearly as long as the - posterior feet. - - This specimen, which is a male, closely resembles _S. - parvus_, but it is much larger; the head is proportionably - much larger and more elongated; the tail more robust, and the - inferior anterior pair of incisores are similar to those of - S. _constrictus_, fig. 7. pl. 15. of the Mem. du Mus. by Mr. - Geoffroy St. Hilaire. The incisors of the superior jaw are - twelve in number, in a cranium belonging to this species, five - on each side in addition the two larger anterior ones; the - posterior tooth of the lateral ones is smallest. - - May not this be the animal mentioned by the late professor - Barton in his Medical and Physical Journal, for March, 1816, - which, he says, "may be called the black shrew?" I do not know - that the black shrew has ever received any further notice, - unless it is the same species to which Mr. Ord has applied the - name of _Sorex niger_.--JAMES. - - - [188] See Thwaites, _Original Journals of the Lewis and Clark - Expedition_, Appendix, vol. vii, doc. xviii.--ED. - - - - -{153} CHAPTER IX - - Animals--Sioux and Omawhaw Indians--Winter Residence at - Engineer Cantonment - - -The subsequent account of the transactions at and near Council -Bluff, and of the observations made there, we copy from the -journal of Mr. Say. - -Descriptions of some of the animals which occurred, are given in -the notes below.[189] - -The prairie wolves[190] roam over the plains in considerable -numbers, and during the night, the principal season of their -hunts, they venture very near to the encampment of the traveller. -They are by far the most numerous of our wolves, and often -unite in packs for the purpose of chasing deer, which they very -frequently succeed in running down, and killing. This, however, is -an achievement attended with much difficulty to them, and in which -the exertion of their utmost swiftness and cunning are so often -unavailing, that they are sometimes reduced to the necessity of -eating wild plums, and other fruits, to them almost indigestible, -in order to distend the stomach, and appease, in a degree, the -cravings of hunger. - -Their bark is much more distinctly like that of the domestic dog, -than of any other animal; in fact the first two or three notes -could not be distinguished from the bark of a small terrier, but -these notes are succeeded by a lengthened scream. - -The wonderful intelligence of this animal is well worthy of note, -and a few anecdotes respecting it may not be amiss. Mr. Peale -constructed and tried various kinds of traps to take them, one of -which was of the description called "a live trap," a shallow box -reversed, and supported at one end, by the {154} well known kind -of trap sticks, usually called the "figure four," which elevated -the front of the trap upwards of three feet above its slab -flooring; the trap was about six feet long, and nearly the same in -breadth, and was plentifully baited with offal. Notwithstanding -this arrangement, a wolf actually burrowed under the flooring, and -pulled down the bait through the crevices of the floor; tracks of -different sizes were observed about the trap. This procedure would -seem to be the result of a faculty beyond mere instinct. - -This trap proving useless, another was constructed in a different -part of the country, formed like a large cage, but with a small -entrance on the top, through which the animals might enter, but -not return; this was equally unsuccessful; the wolves attempted in -vain to get at the bait, as they would not enter by the route -prepared for them. - -A large double "steel trap" was next tried; this was profusely -baited, and the whole, with the exception of the bait, was -carefully concealed beneath the fallen leaves. This was also -unsuccessful. Tracks of the anticipated victims were next day -observed to be impressed in numbers on the earth near the spot, -but still the trap, with its seductive charge, remained untouched. -The bait was then removed from the trap, and suspended over it -from the branch of a tree; several pieces of meat were also -suspended in a similar manner, from trees in the vicinity; the -following morning the bait over the trap alone remained. -Supposing that their exquisite sense of smell warned them of the -position of the trap, it was removed, and again covered with -leaves, and the baits being disposed as before, the leaves to a -considerable distance around were burned, and the trap remained -perfectly concealed by ashes; still the bait over the trap was -avoided. Once only this trap was sprung, and had fastened for a -short time upon the foot of a species, which was shot the -following day at no great distance; it proved to be a species -distinct from the {155} prairie wolf, and we have described it -under the name of C. nubilus. - -In no respect disheartened by these futile attempts, many times -repeated, and varied in every obvious manner, another scheme was -executed, which eventuated in complete success. This was the log -trap, in which one log is elevated above another at one end, by -means of an upright stick, which rests upon a rounded horizontal -trigger stick, on the inferior log. - -The latrans does not diffuse the offensive odour, so remarkable in -the two species of jackalls, (C. aureus and C. anthus) though in -many respects it resembles those animals. Like the Mexicanus, the -hair on the vertebral line is elongated; and we should be disposed -to regard it as the same animal, but it differs from the -description of that species, both in colour and physiognomy. The -ears are proportionally longer than those of C. cancrivorus, and, -as well as the tail, shorter than the corresponding parts of C. -mesomelas. - -This animal, which does not seem to be known to naturalists, -unless it should prove to be the Mexicanus, is most probably the -original of the domestic dog, so common in the villages of the -Indians of this region, some of the varieties of which still -retain much of the habit and manners of this species. - -On the 14th of October, four hundred Omawhaw Indians assembled at -Camp Missouri. Major O'Fallon addressed them in an appropriate -speech, stating the reasons for their being called to council; -upon which Ong-pa-ton-ga, the Big Elk,[191] arose, and after -shaking by the hand each of the whites present, placed his robe of -otter skins, and his mockasins under the feet of the agent, whom -he addressed to the following effect, as his language was -interpreted by Mr. Dougherty. - - "He had heard that his father wished to see him, and he had - wished to see and to hear the words of his father, ever since he - learned that he was ascending {156} the river. He was informed - last fall of his being at the river Platte, and as he could not - then go to see him, he had now come to visit him; and here I - am, my father. All these young people you see around here are - yours; although they are poor and trifling, yet they are your - children. I have always loved the whites since I first remember - to have seen them, and this affection increases with my age. All - my nation loves the whites, and always have loved them. Amongst - all the good things of this world I place the whites first. But - it appears that there are many nations that live nearer to you - than I, that do not love you, though you have done more for - them, than you have done for me. When they meet with you, they - flatter you, in order to get presents from you, notwithstanding - which, they would not hesitate to kill some of your people on - their way home. Some of them shake hands with you in a friendly - manner, whilst their hands are yet stained with your blood; - and if you examine your own hands, my father, I think you would - find some of it adhering to them yet. For my part, my father, - I am proud to boast, that my hands are clean. Never has one of - my nation stained his hands with the blood of a white man. I - do not understand, my father, your mode of treating those well - who treat you ill. It is true, I know, that you have more sense - than I have, but I cannot understand it. I have heard that the - Pawnees have been to see you; a nation that has killed, robbed, - and insulted your people. I was also informed that you feasted - them, and at their departure you put weapons in their hands. I - should not be surprised to hear, that those very weapons were - stained with white man's blood before they reached the Pawnee - village. This is what I cannot understand. This circumstance - led me to believe, that if you treated those that have injured - you so well, you surely would treat your poor children the - Omawhaws, who have never done harm to your people, with much - kindness {157} also. But I am afraid the transaction will have a - bad effect on my young men. When they heard of American troops - ascending this river, they feared and respected them. But I am - fearful that this transaction will throw them off their guard, - make them lose their respect for you, and cause them to do - something that they would not otherwise have done, and thus - create trouble and difference between us. You said, my father, - that those troops do not come to harm us. I believe it is - true. I consider them all my brothers and friends. So far from - thinking they come to injure me, I regard them as my shield, to - guard me against bad nations around me. You say, that if ever - there is a difference between us, that it will be our fault; but - I hope not, my father, I cannot think that the Omawhaws will - offer any indignity to your people, now that they have seen all - those troops, when they have not harmed individuals who have - resided years in their village unprotected, although we were - then less enlightened than we now are. Some think, my father, - that you have brought all these warriors here to take our land - from us, but I do not believe it. For although I am but a poor, - simple Indian, yet I know that this land will not suit your - farmers; if I even thought your hearts bad enough to take the - land, I would not fear it, as I know there is not wood enough - on it for the use of whites. You might settle along this river, - where timber is to be found; but we can always get wood enough - in our country to make our little fires. There is one thing I - fear, my father; my nation is coming down here to hunt this - winter, and if you send out your soldiers to hunt also, they - will drive off all the game, and our women and children will - starve. We have heard of the ascent of the troops up this river - ever since last fall, and we have been told by other nations, - that if they chance to meet with any squaws unprotected, they - ravish them. But, my father, we shall soon know if this be true - or not; because, having {158} but little to eat, our squaws - will be obliged to go out into the prairies to dig roots; I - shall trust to you, and not hesitate to let them go." He also - observed, that he could not see the necessity of stationing so - many troops here, as there was no one to oppose; he thought it - desirable that they should go higher up the river, to chastise - those refractory Indians who will not listen to our words. - "There is one thing, my father," he observed, "which I wish you - to inform me of. We have heard of your tying up and whipping - individuals of several nations, as you ascended this river. - What is the offence which will subject us to this punishment? - I wish to know, that I may inform my people, that they may be - on their guard." He then observed that all his children were - poor, and that they had come with the expectation of receiving - something from their father. - -This speech, contrary to the usual mode of Indian orators, was -commenced in a low tone, the voice gradually rising as the speaker -proceeded, until it attained its full intonation. - -Several speakers subsequently went forward and delivered their -sentiments, generally alluding to the circumstance of our treating -those who injure us kindly, and neglecting our friends. - -Ta-sone, the White Cow,[192] spoke with that allusion, and added, -"Look at me, my father, look at my hands; examine me well, I am a -wild man, born in the prairie;" and subsequently, "I told you, my -father, to look at me, that you might see if there is any of the -blood of your people upon me. Some, whose hands have been stained -with blood, endeavour to wash it off, but some of it will still -remain." - -It is proper to mention, as explanatory of some of the allusions -in the above speeches, that the Pawnees, at the conclusion of -their council, had been invited to dine at Camp Missouri, and that -many of their chiefs were there presented with sabres, as I before -stated. It was to this circumstance that the above-mentioned {159} -speakers had reference, as being inexplicable to them; as it -seemed as if we wished to conciliate the good will of those -evil-doers through fear, and yet they could hardly accuse us of -fear, surrounded as we were by so formidable an array of troops. - -It was evident, however, that the speakers had mentally no -reference to Major O'Fallon, as they knew he had not committed or -sanctioned the acts of which they complained in their truly -delicate and peculiar manner. But they looked upon him as -responsible for the actions of his people, knowing him to be the -representative of the government, and that in case of wrong, they -could not obtain redress from any other person. How much soever -Major O'Fallon may have disapproved of the treatment which the -Pawnees had received from the military, he was perfectly conscious -of having conducted himself towards them according to their -deserts, so far as power had been placed in his hands. But being -thus verbally accused, pointedly and repeatedly of injustice, for -acts not his own, he arose and said, "Omawhaws, you say I called -the Pawnees here to feast them and make them presents, after they -had killed and insulted us, but it is not true. I did not smoke -the pipe of peace with them, neither will I, until our differences -are settled. I told the Pawnees that, even if I stood unsupported -before them, I would, nevertheless, either compel them to make -reparation for their offences, or leave my bones amongst them for -my nation to come and bury." - -The Big Elk, and Big Eyes, were the only chiefs acknowledged by -Major O'Fallon, who then made liberal presents to them for their -people. - -Some of these presents were distributed by the Indians after a -peculiar manner, but which I learn is very common amongst the -Indians of this country. A certain portion of them is placed upon -the ground, and whoever can _strike the post_ the most frequently, -{160} gains them. Another portion is then staked for any other -competitors who may choose to advance. A valuable stake was then -offered, and an aged veteran stepped forth, and looking round upon -his nation with a majestic mien, in which there was not a little -expression of triumph, he seemed to challenge the bravest of the -brave to come forward and compete with him for the possession of -it; but agreeably to his expectations no one advanced, and he bore -off the prize by common consent, without going through the ceremony -of _striking_. - -From the 24th of October to the 10th of November, the atmosphere -was generally filled with a dense smoke, like a fog or stratus, -which proceeded from the conflagrated prairies. It sometimes -affected our vision painfully, sometimes it so far intercepted the -rays of the sun that the disk of that luminary appeared of a -blood-red, and the eye could repose upon it uninjured. On the -morning of the 8th instant, it occurred in greater quantity than -at any other time, when it was so extremely dense as to intercept -a view of the opposite shore of the Missouri from Engineer -Cantonment. - -On the 9th of November some rain fell, attended with thunder and -lightning. The rain continued on the day following, with the wind -from the south-east; at evening the smoke was almost entirely -dissipated, and the clouds, which were cirro-cumuli passing to the -north-north-west, became visible. - -A party of Sioux visited us on the 15th of November, to view the -steam-boat. As Major Long had left orders to put the steam -machinery in action occasionally, in order to preserve it from -rust, Lieutenant Graham concluded to exhibit the boat with the -engine in action. The Indians hesitated to enter the boat, -fearing, as they said, that it was, or that it contained some -_great medicine_ of the Big-knives that might injure them. But -when on board and at their ease, one of them observed doubtingly, -{161} "he hardly thought the Big-knives had any medicine to hurt -them." They appeared much delighted with the boat; its size seemed -to surprise them, several measured the width of the deck by -straddling, instead of pacing as we do. We exhibited to them the -air-gun, magnet, &c. which considerably excited their attention. -Two of the howitzers were discharged, loaded with case-shot; the -effect produced, of the shot falling into the water, at unequal -distances and times, was new and unexpected, and they covered -their mouths with the hand, to express their astonishment. Of -these warriors, three are Tetons, one a Yancton, and a Sa-ho-ne; -three different tribes of the great Dacota or Sioux nation. They -are fine looking men, with very prominent cheekbones. They are -more attentive to their dress, and are much neater than the other -Indians we have seen; though it is proper to observe that, as -visitors, they are clothed in their best attire. They decorate -their hair with a profusion of feathers of the war eagle, and of a -species of owl which we have not seen. They also suspend in the -headdress an entire skin of the paroquet. The hair is in great -profusion, and is thrown upon the back in very long rolls; but -upon close inspection, the greater portion of it is perceived to -be false hair artificially attached to their own, the points of -junction being indicated by small masses of clay, with which the -attachment is effected. Two of these Tetons are inseparable -friends, were raised together from their infancy, and although not -allied by blood, there is a strong personal resemblance between -them, which is not a little enhanced by a studied similarity in -dress and ornaments. These two individuals are firm friends to the -whites. One of them was a few years since at the Sa-ho-ne village -in company with a trader, and being invited to a feast, they had -proceeded but a short distance, when a Sa-ho-ne rushed from his -concealment and knocked the trader down with his war-club. The -Teton immediately {162} attacked the assailant, felled him in his -turn to the earth, gashed his body with the spear of his war-club -and left him for dead. This is a strong evidence of the -determination of the savages, as they are called, to protect those -whom they consider under their guardianship. The Teton retaliated -the blow given to the trader, not only at the immediate risk of -his life in the combat, but of having to expiate the deed to many -a kindred exasperated warrior, and also at the hazard of -originating a war between the two bands. - -In the course of the winter we received frequent supplies of -provisions from Camp Missouri; and by means of some exertion and -diligence in hunting, we were able to procure plenty of fresh -venison and other game. For coffee we substituted the fruit of the -gymnocladus canadensis, which afforded a palatable and wholesome -beverage. The flesh of the _skunk_ we had sometimes dressed for -dinner, and found it a remarkably rich and delicate food. - -On the 5th of December, the gentlemen of the party dined by -invitation with Mr. M. Lisa. - -The principal Ioway chief was once at our camp; he is a very -intelligent Indian, with a solemn dignity of deportment, and would -not deign to enter our houses or even to approach them until -invited. He is said to have a more intimate knowledge of the -manners of the whites, than any other Indian of the Missouri, and -to be acquainted with many of the words of our language, but will -not willingly make use of them, fearing to express himself -improperly, or not trusting to his pronunciation. He remained near -Council Bluff in the autumn, in order to be present at the -councils with the different nations, and to observe the conduct of -the whites towards them respectively, a considerable time after -his nation had departed down the river to their beaver trapping. -After this he went with his family to the head waters of the -Boyer, and during his stay there trapped sixty {163} beaver; when -with us he was about to go in search of his people. He had three -wives with him, one of whom appeared to be about nine or ten years -of age, and whom we mistook for his daughter, until he undeceived -us. We showed him our books of engravings, with which he was -highly pleased. The Indians, almost all of them, delight to look -over engravings, particularly those which represent animals; they -are not soon fatigued when employed in this way. - -This Indian is known by several names, as Grand Batture, Hard -Heart, Sandbar, and in his own language, Wang-e-waha. During our -late contest with Great Britain, he turned his back upon his -nation, in consequence of their raising the tomahawk upon our -citizens, and crossing the Missouri, united his destiny with the -Otoes, who received and treated him with distinguished respect. -Last autumn his nation joined him, and submitted to his guidance; -so that the Otoes, Missouries, and Ioways were then united. - -Some time since in a transaction with a captain, formerly of the -United States' army, he thought himself grossly insulted, and -demanded on the spot personal satisfaction, agreeably to the -custom of the whites, challenging his opponent to single combat, -with pistols or such other weapons as he might choose. - -He is esteemed the bravest and most intelligent of the Ioways, and -amongst the Otoes he was associated with many equally brave with -himself. But as there are national prejudices amongst the Indians -as well as amongst the whites, he has not escaped from many a keen -allusion to his nation. In a quarrel, which arose from some -expressions of this nature, Ietan knocked him down with a -war-club. - -He has been in fifty battles, and has commanded in seven. - -He says the white people often request the Indians to abstain from -war, and yet the white people continue {164} to fight each other, -as if they wished to monopolize the occupation of war, and thereby -deprive the Indian of his principal avenue to honour and dignity. - -Several Omawhaws, who have been trapping in the country opposite -to Blackbird-hill, remained with us last night. The principal one, -A-ha-ga-nash-he, or the Upright Horn, has a rather handsome Sioux -squaw, to whom he appears to be much attached, paying her great -attention in conversation, giving her a portion of his whiskey, -and handing her the pipe to smoke. She is, however, not exempted -from the ordinary employments of the Indian women, and we had an -opportunity to-day of seeing her depart from Mr. Lisa's with a -heavy load, consisting of the goods which her husband had received -in exchange for his beaver, on her back, whilst he carried only a -keg of whiskey slung over his shoulders, and his gun and hunting -apparatus. Previously to the departure of the Omawhaws from our -establishment this morning, the brother of one of them, who, -report said, had been killed by the Sioux, arrived; he has been -with about ten lodges, (about twenty men) of his tribe trapping on -the Elk Horn, and they had taken about two hundred beavers. He has -taken sixty himself, of which he presented his elder brother -twenty, and is on his way to Mr. Lisa, to have a trader with -merchandize sent to his party to deal for the skins. It is a -singular circumstance, that this is the second instance of these -two brothers meeting in this vicinity, after the one had been -supposed to have been killed by the Sioux. - -A-ha-ga-nash-he, whom we invited to take up his lodgings for the -night in our room, became alarmed at my repute as a medicine man, -fearing that I would cast some spell upon him, or otherwise injure -him by the operation of some potent mystic medicine: he removed -his quarters to the adjoining room, where he seemed to think he -was safe from my incantations. - -Our hunter, whose name is No-zun-da-je; or, "He {165} that does -not dodge," is esteemed a good hunter by his nation; but he is not -a distinguished warrior, although he has been in numerous battles. -He says he has killed several red skins in action, but never yet -had the honour to _strike_ a body. He showed us the scars of many -wounds, most of which he had inflicted on himself, when in -mourning for the death of his relatives and friends, by thrusting -arrows through the skin and a portion of the flesh of his arm. His -brother, at the same time, showed many scars which he had caused -by cutting out pieces from his body with a knife, on the same -occasions. - -Several Omawhaws visited us on the 8th, and a party of three of -them, who were in possession of a keg of whiskey, invited our -hunter to accompany them, for the night, to "make his heart glad" -with a portion of its contents. The Omawhaws, Otoes, Missouries, -and Ioways are excessively attached to this destructive liquor. - -On the 9th December, Lieutenant Swift, in company with Mr. -Pilcher[193] of the Missouri Fur Company, set out on a visit to -the Omawhaws. His course was first directed towards the Elk Horn -river, tributary to the Platte, and afterwards along the valley of -the former, to the Omawhaw encampment, which he reached at the -distance of about one hundred and twenty miles. The country over -which he travelled was almost entirely destitute of woodland; the -surface generally cut by numerous ravines; the soil for the most -part sandy, but in some instances enriched by a black loam. He -returned to camp on the 23d, his companion having purchased of the -Indians one hundred and thirty beaver skins, besides raccoon and -deer skins. - -10th. By a recent occurrence, the late treaty of peace between the -Otoes and Konzas was on the eve of being infracted. The Otoes, who -were encamped for hunting near the mouth of the Platte, had four -horses stolen from them about two weeks since, and {166} -subsequently ten more. These robberies were immediately attributed -to the Konzas, and a war-party prepared themselves to march and -retaliate upon that nation. Hashea, however, prevented them from -going, saying that their father (Major O'Fallon) had been -instrumental in reconciling them to a peace with the Konzas, and -it would be highly improper for them to strike a blow, without -asking his opinion upon the subject. It seems more probable that -the horses have been taken either by the Sauks or Ioways. The -latter appears to be a faithless people; they obtained a -considerable quantity of goods on credit, last fall, from the -Missouri Fur Company, and now, we are informed, instead of -returning to discharge their debts, they are on their way down the -river to barter their beaver at Fort Osage. It is said they will -inhabit their old village, on the river Des Moines, the ensuing -season. - -12th. Many Indians visited us yesterday and to-day, some of whom -brought jerked deer meat, mockasins, &c. to exchange for their -favourite drink, and for trinkets. But as we have none of the -latter, and as the former is interdicted from them by our laws, we -are not authorized to make any purchases. That they do contrive to -get whiskey elsewhere, perhaps of the traders, we have abundant -proof. Yesterday a squaw got drunk, and made much noise; but her -companions, after much ado, carried her off to their encampment. - -As we were cutting up a log for fuel, one of the Omawhaws seeing a -knot or protuberance of the wood, suitable to form into a bowl, -requested us to cut it off for him; but not choosing to gratify -him in that manner, we offered the axe we were using, that he -might cut it in his own way; he, however, would not accept of it, -but pointed to the palm of his hand, giving us to understand that -such labour would make his hand sore and hard; he then called one -of his squaws, who immediately went to work, {167} and handled the -axe very dexterously. Observing several young Indians passing, I -indicated to her the propriety of requesting one of them to -assist her, but she laughed significantly, as if she would -say--you are ironical. - -The Indians are very fickle in bargaining. An Indian, some time -since, exchanged his rifle for Mr. Dougherty's shot gun; yesterday -he reversed the bargain, giving a pair of mockasins in return; and -this morning he requested to exchange again, in which he was -gratified. - -A squaw offered to exchange mockasins for a couple of our military -stocks. We could not conceive to what use she would apply them, -but, upon inquiry, we learned that she wished to ornament the -crupper of her horse with them. - -The stone quarry, which supplied limestone for building chimnies -at camp Missouri, was situate at the distance of an hundred yards -below our cantonment. The labourers that were employed in this -quarry opened upon many large fissures, in which were found a -number of serpents that had entered there for the purpose of -hybernating. Of these, three species appear to be new.[194] - -This morning three Omawhaws were fired upon by a war-party of five -Ioway Indians, and two were wounded; this occurred on the east -side of the river, nearly opposite to our cantonment. When they -fired, each one called out his name agreeably to the Indian -custom. A party of Omawhaws then assembled, and pursued them about -fifteen miles, but without success. - -Two Oto warriors, and a boy, nephew of Ishta-gre-ja, Gray Eyes the -elder, visited us this afternoon. They have been hunting on Blue -Water creek, in the neighbourhood of the Konzas hunting camps, and -not distant from the village of the latter; they have been so -fortunate as to take one hundred and forty beavers, the skins of -which they left at {168} their village, under the care of the son -of Gray Eyes and their squaws; their business in this quarter is -to look out for the best market for their peltries. They say it -was certainly not the Konzas who stole the horses from their -brethren who are encamped near the confluence of the Platte. They -attribute that theft to the Ioways, who, they say, are still -fools, as they always have proved themselves to be. - -30th. In the morning a nimbus from the north. An imperfect -parhelion appeared at sunrise, consisting of three luminous spots, -at about 22° distant from each other in the horizon; one of them -was the real place of the sun, and the others were to the north -and south of it. As the sun ascended towards the zenith, the mock -suns continued to ascend equally and parallel with it, but became -gradually fainter until they disappeared near the zenith. - -Evening. A complete paraselene appeared about the moon, of the -diameter of 45 degrees. - -The mercury was below Zero the greater part of the day, in -Fahrenheit's thermometer. - -31st. Several Canadians in the employ of the Missouri Fur Company, -came this evening to dance and sing before us, agreeably to the -custom of their countrymen, in celebration of the termination of -the year. They were adorned with paint after the Indian manner, -clothed with bison robes, and had bells attached to different -parts of their dress. So completely were they disguised, that -three of their employers, who happened to be present, had much -difficulty in recognizing them. This dance is called _La -Gineolet_,[195] and may have had its origin in the same cause that -produced our _Belshnickles_, who make their appearance on -Christmas-eve. We gave them what was expected, whiskey, flour, and -meat. - -January 6th, 1820. Mr. Graham and I measured the width of the -river in two places, a short distance below our cantonment, and a -short distance above; [158] the latter gave two hundred and -seventy-seven and one-third yards, and the former one hundred -yards. - -We hear the barking of the prairie wolves every night about us; -they venture close to our huts; last night they ran down and -killed a doe, within a short distance of our huts; this morning -the remains of the carcass were found, consisting only of bones -and skin. - -Mr. Fontenelle,[196] in the employ of the Missouri Fur Company, -who has been absent for some time trading with one of the bands of -the Omawhaws, called to-day on his return; this band had been much -necessitated for food, subsisting for some time upon the fruit of -the red haws, which the squaws sought for beneath the proper -trees, under the snow. He met with some of the nation of Sioux, -called Gens de Feuille[197] by the French. They have been much -thinned in numbers by a disorder, which, from the description -given of it, may be the quinsy. This same band is said to have -suffered much from the small-pox last autumn. They were also now -nearly starved for want of food; but they said if they could hold -out until they arrived at Min-da-wa-cong, or Medicine lake, (on -the maps, Spirit lake,)[198] they would do very well, as they had -there a considerable quantity of wild oats buried, or _caché_, as -the French say. - -13th. Ietan,[199] an Oto, of whom we have before spoken, visited -us to-day for the purpose of getting two gun-locks mended. He left -his people at the Republican fork of the Konza river, and intends -as soon as he returns, to lead a party in pursuit of bisons, which -he says are in plenty on the Loup fork of the Platte, about sixty -miles distant from us.[200] - -14th. Ietan called this morning, and as some of our party were -going to visit at Camp Missouri, he accompanied them in order to -obtain Major O'Fallon's permission for his nation to go to war -with the {170} Konzas. He informed the agent that individuals of -that nation had sometime since stolen horses from them. That one -of the losers, Big Soldier, had gone to the Konza village to -demand the horses; but seeing a number of horses belonging to that -nation when he arrived near the village, he could not resist the -temptation of immediately retaliating by seizing several, and -appropriating them to his own use. But, Ietan said, he thought the -honour of his nation still called for war, and he solicited the -acquiescence of the agent in that measure. The Major replied, that -his opinion ought to have been asked previously to the retaliatory -measure which had already been prematurely taken, as they were not -certain that the Konzas were the offenders, and that this ought to -have been ascertained before any depredation on the Konzas had -been committed. But the course which he would now advise them to -pursue was, to send a deputation to the Konzas, for the purpose of -ascertaining the fact, to return the Konzas' horses, and to demand -their own. This course seemed satisfactory to the warrior; who, -however, stated that if the Konzas attempted to steal horses from -them in future, he would certainly lead a war party himself -against them. - -15th. Mr. Woods, of the Missouri Fur Company, has returned from a -trading excursion. He reports that he saw several of the Pawnee -_caches_, which had been broken open and robbed of their corn by -the Omawhaws. This is by no means a rare occurrence with the -Indians, but it does not appear that it has ever led to -hostilities between nations; they say that when a person is in -want of food, he has a right to take any he can find. - -Corporal Norman, who went out this morning to kill rabbits, -returned about noon with twenty-seven, which he had killed with -single balls. - -February 9th. Several Oto Indians have visited us within this day -or two, and one of them, Ca-he-ga-in-ya, {171} remained with us -last night; he was finely dressed, had on a chief's coat laced -with silver, and a profusion of wampum about his neck, and -suspended to his ears; he departed this morning on his way to the -Omawhaws, to trade for horses. - -The ice on the Missouri is sixteen inches in thickness, that of -the Boyer creek fifteen and three-fourths. - -12th. Messrs. Dougherty, Peel [Peale], and myself, with an -assistant, encamped at a pond near the Boyer to obtain fish; we -cut several holes in the ice of the pond, and obtained one otter -and a number of small fishes, amongst which three species appeared -to be new; several specimens were of the genus gasterosteus. - -15th. Mr. Zenoni, of the Fur Company, who departed the twenty-seventh -ultimo on a trading expedition, returned and remained with us last -night. He and two men had ascended the Elk Horn about twenty-five -miles higher than Mr. Swift had been, but were not successful -in finding any Indians. And although they saw a few bisons and -antelopes, and elks, they were not so fortunate as to kill any game -for subsistence, excepting three turkeys; so that they returned in -a state of considerable exhaustion, having been for some time on an -allowance of a little maize per day. He found that the upper part -of the Elk Horn had not frozen during the severe weather, but still -remained open. This circumstance seems to indicate the flow of a -great quantity of spring water, or water of a medium temperature, -in that part of the stream, requiring time to cool in its passage, -before it can congeal. - -19th. The sand is blown by the violence of the wind from the -sand-bars of the river, so as to resemble a dense fog. We have -been hitherto very well supplied with fresh meat, from game killed -principally by Mr. Peale, who, on one occasion, killed two deer at -a single shot and with one ball, but we are now reduced again to -salt pork of a very inferior quality. {172} The party, with the -exception of myself, continue to enjoy good health. - -22d. Messrs. Dougherty and Peale returned from a hunt, having -killed twelve bisons out of a herd of several hundreds they met -with near Sioux river, and brought us a seasonable supply of meat. -They saw several herds of elk, and yesterday they saw swans, -geese, and ducks, flying up the river. A dinner and ball were -given at Camp Missouri, in honour of the day, to which our party -were invited. - -24th. Mr. Graham and I endeavoured to ascertain the rapidity of -the current of this part of the Missouri, at the present low -water. We availed ourselves of a long vacancy in the ice to float -a porter bottle, to which the proper specific gravity was given, -by partially filling it with water, it was attached to a cord of -one hundred and twenty-two feet in length; it floated this -distance in six successive experiments in the following several -times 1´ 07´´--1´ 04´´--1´ 07-1/2´´--1´ 05´´--1´ 07´´--1´ 07´´, the mean -of which is 1´ 06-1/2´´ nearly, giving a velocity of 1 mile 441 -yards 1-1/2 feet per hour. - -By these experiments, however, the superficial current or stratum -only was indicated, and as we had reason to suppose that this -stratum was more impeded by friction against the inferior surface -of the ice than it would be by the atmosphere, it became an object -to ascertain the average velocity of the different depths. With -this view a staff ten feet long was made to float vertically, by -means of a weight attached to its inferior extremity; a line of -one hundred and seventy-eight feet in length was run out by this -arrangement, during the following intervals of time, in four -experiments, viz. 1´ 21´´--1´ 21´´--1´ 19´´--1´ 21´´, of which the -mean is 1´ 20-1/2´´, which would seem to indicate a current of the -velocity of 1 mile 893 yards 1 foot per hour. Thus the average -velocity of ten feet in depth of the current of the Missouri, is -greater by almost 452 yards in a single hour, than {173} that of a -superficial stratum of about six inches depth, during the -ice-bound state of the river. During these experiments the -atmosphere was nearly calm. - -25th. Cooked for dinner the entire hump of a bison, after the -manner of the Indians; this favourite part of the animal was -dissected from the vertebræ, after which the spinous processes -were taken out, and the denuded part was covered with skin, which -was firmly sewed to that of the back and sides of the hump; the -hair was burned and pulled off, and the whole mass exhibiting -something of a fusiform shape, was last evening placed in a hole -dug in the earth for its reception, which had been previously -heated by means of a strong fire in and upon it. It was now -covered with cinders and earth, to the depth of about one foot, -and a strong fire was made over it. In this situation it remained -until it was taken up for the table to-day, when it was found to -be excellent food. Mr. Lisa and family dined with us by -invitation. That we have sometimes food in great sufficiency, the -provision upon our table this day will sufficiently attest. It -consisted of the entire bison hump, above mentioned; the rump of a -bison roasted, boiled bison meat, two boiled bison tongues, the -spinous processes roasted in the manner of spare-ribs, sausages -made of minced tender loin and fat, &c. It is true that we have no -vegetables whatever, but having been so long estranged from them, -we scarcely regret their absence. Their place is supplied by -excellent wheat flour, of which our cook prepares us bread fully -equal, in point of excellence, to any that we have ever eaten. The -above repast was prepared for eleven persons, of whom two were -ladies.[201] The collation was succeeded by coffee as a desert. - -February 28th. I ascertained the temperature of spring water, -which, however, was somewhat exposed to the atmosphere, but in a -shaded situation, and in a ravine, to be 47°; that of the -atmosphere being at {174} the same time 56°, and that of the river -32°, of Fahrenheit's scale. - -Wednesday, March 8th. The Big Elk, Big Eyes, and Wash-co-mo-ne-a -visited us to-day on their way, with their attendants, to the -traders with jerked bison meat. They presented us with five large -pieces. The Big Elk, principal Omawhaw chief, is much pitted with -the smallpox, and is of commanding presence. He speaks with great -emphasis, and remarkably distinct. He observed that we must think -them strange people to be thus constantly wandering about during -the cold of winter, instead of remaining comfortably housed in -their village; "But," said he, "our poverty and necessities compel -us to do so in pursuit of game; yet we sometimes venture forth for -our pleasure, as in the present instance, to visit the white -people, whom we are always delighted to see." Big Eyes is a large -and remarkably muscular man. His nose is that of the European, the -opposite to the Roman curve; he is second chief of the Omawhaws. - -The Omawhaw chiefs remained with us the greater part of the -following day, and presented us with eight more pieces of jerked -meat. We presented them in return with some tobacco, &c. The Big -Elk made us a considerable harangue, with all the remarkable -vivacity, fluency, and nerve of Indian eloquence, in which he said -that he would address me by the title of father; "And you," said -he, to Mr. Dougherty, "whom I know so well, I will call brother. -The Indians around," said he, "who tell the white people that they -love them, speak falsely, as is proved by their killing the white -people; but my nation truly love you, they have never stained -their hands with the blood of a white man, and this much cannot be -said by any nation of this land." He added a strong expression, -that such was his attachment to us, that he believed that he -should, at a future day, be a white man himself. - -{175} When they took their leave, we advised them not to visit -Camp Missouri, telling them what, in fact, they had already been -informed of, that many of the soldiers were sick; (we did not wish -them to observe the extent of the malady, with which that camp was -afflicted,) but Big Elk remarked, that it had been his intention -to go there, and it was not fear that could prevent him; his life -was at the disposal of the great Wahconda only, and he could not -die before his time; "But," said he, "agreeably to your request I -certainly will not go." - -Of all the objects which we exhibited to the view of the chiefs, -quicksilver (mercury) seemed to excite the most surprise; they -weighed the vessel, in which it was contained, in their hands, -dipped their fingers into it, and were surprised at the resistance -which it offered to the immersion, and what appeared most singular -was, that they should be withdrawn without any appearance of -moisture upon them; that they might not be deceived they repeated -the experiment again and again. A couple of iron nails were then -thrown upon the mercury, and as these did not sink to the bottom, -they pressed them down with their fingers; but finding that the -nails constantly arose again to the surface, the Big Elk returned -the vessel to me, saying, with a smile of pleasure strongly -impressed on his strongly marked countenance, that the fluid was -the Omawhaw's Wahconda. - -The last load of stone, which was taken from the quarry early in -December last, was prevented from reaching Camp Missouri by the -floating ice; the boat was driven ashore and abandoned. It was now -observed floating down the river, with a large quantity of drift -ice; and, when opposite our cantonment, was readily secured by -Major Ketchum, without having received any injury whatever.[202] -Major Ketchum, with a detachment of men, has been engaged for two -or three days past in cutting out of the ice, three of the boats -from our harbour. These, together with {176} one, which is at Camp -Missouri, are intended to convey the sick from that camp down the -river to Fort Osage. Camp Missouri has been sickly, from the -commencement of winter; but its situation is at this time truly -deplorable. More than three hundred soldiers are, or have been -sick, and nearly one hundred have died. This fatality is -occasioned by the scurvy (scorbutus). Individuals who are seized -rarely recover, as they cannot be furnished with the proper -aliments; they have no vegetables, fresh meat, nor antiscorbutics, -so that the patients grow daily worse, and entering the hospital -is considered by them as a certain passport to the grave. Yet it -is some consolation to reflect that all the science, care, and -attention of the healing art have been exerted for the relief of -the sufferers by Doctors Gale and Moore, as far as their present -insulated situation will admit. The causes which have been -productive of all this disease, are not distinctly known, although -there are many supposed ones to which it has been imputed. But it -was generally remarked, that the hunters, who were much employed -in their avocation, and almost constantly absent from Camp -Missouri, escaped the malady. - -On the 19th, Mr. Immel,[203] of the Missouri Fur Company, -returned from an expedition to the Sioux. During his stay in the -vicinity of the pseudo volcanoes, which occur on the banks of the -Missouri, a tremendous subterranean explosion occurred, which much -alarmed the Indians as well as the whites; the concussion was -succeeded by a large volume of dense smoke from the aperture of -the volcano, by the sinking in of a portion of the hill in the -rear, and by the cracking of the ice in the river. Messrs. Peale, -Swift, and Dougherty departed in a periogue yesterday, on their -way to the Bowyer Creek to hunt. - -An igneous meteor, or jack-o'-lantern, was seen on the evening of -the 20th, near our cantonment; it was described to me as of the -size of a double fist, {177} with a caudate appendage, or tail, of -the length of about two feet; it emitted a light of the colour of -the flame of burning sulphur; it passed along the river shore -nearly over the observer's head, at but a very small elevation, -nearly in a right line, with an equable motion, about as rapid as -the flight of a bird, and with an audible sound like the blowing -of a moderate stream of air through a thicket; it was visible -about one half a minute, when it crossed the river, became paler, -and disappeared. - -The waters of the Missouri have been as clear during the winter as -ordinary rivers; the earthy matter, which they hold in suspension -during the temperate and warm weather, and which every person who -views the river remarks as characteristic of its waters, subsides -as soon as the wintry temperature occurs, but is again renewed in -the spring. They have been gradually more and more turbid, these -two or three days past. The ice in the river broke up on the 29th -ult., and entirely disappeared on the 19th instant. - -Great flights of geese, swans, ducks, brant, and cranes have been -passing up the river, at their usual migrating altitude above the -surface of the earth; but this migration of these aquatic birds -has nearly ceased. - -April 5th. A war-party of Omawhaws arrived at the trading house of -the Missouri Fur Company. They are one of three parties, which -have been for ten days past in pursuit of a war-party of thirteen -Sauks who carried off a number of horses from near the Omawhaw -village. They pursued the trail of the Sauks, until they lost it -nearly opposite to this place; they, nevertheless, continued the -pursuit in the direction which they supposed the enemy had taken, -but are now returning unsuccessful; they say they are in hopes, -that one of the other parties may overtake them. It seems -probable, that it was this same {178} party of Sauks who fired -upon a soldier on the 30th ult. - -6th. The war-party mentioned yesterday visited us this morning, on -their way home. They danced for us, and after receiving bread, -buffaloe meat, and tobacco, departed well pleased. In the -afternoon, another war-party of eleven Omawhaws, who had also been -in pursuit of the same Sauks, arrived. We were notified of their -proximity by hearing their war-song, and going out, we observed -them at a short distance arranged in a line, from the centre of -which were elevated two handsome streamers, which, upon their -approach, we found to be two long lances, to which feathers of -different colours, fancifully arranged, were attached. The -partizan advanced, and made us a speech as usual, in which he gave -an account of their adventures, and concluded by praising the -kindness of the whites, their hospitality, and their greatness in -arts and arms. This address being well understood to aim at food -and lodging, though neither of these were mentioned, we supplied -them with bison meat, bread, and maize, and invited them to remain -with us during the night to rest themselves in comfort and safety. -They immediately sat down, and, the food being portioned out by -one of the warriors, they proceeded to eat with the appearance of -such appetites as convinced us that their fast had been of long -duration. In conversation during the evening the partizan said, -that they had followed a considerable trail, supposing that the -Sauks had taken that direction; that they observed stakes stuck in -the ground at certain distances, and the trees _blazed_ as far as -they went upon that trail. He inquired if we knew the reason of -such marks; he was then informed, that it was to indicate the -course of a road which was to be made in that direction, and that -if he had travelled far enough upon the trail he would have met -with towns of white people, who would have treated him well. After -musing some time, he {179} observed, that they had travelled a -good distance on that route, and having occasion to deviate a -short distance from it, they found when they returned that a white -man and three horses had passed along during their absence; (this -was Lieutenant Fields, the express,) they immediately despatched -two of their young men back to follow him, and to learn if he had -met the fugitive Sauks; but they could not overtake him. "We -continued on," said Naugh-ken-ne (or the Left Hand), "with all -speed; but at length, being almost famished, we were necessitated -to halt and hunt; of course we gave over the pursuit. Not wishing -to return to our nation without obtaining some trophy, we resolved -to go to Nishnebottona, in order to strike upon the Ioways, who, -we had been informed, were at that place; but when we arrived -there, we had the mortification to learn that they were gone; we -must, therefore, return without these poor young men having any -opportunity to distinguish themselves." "Did you not," we asked, -"make peace with the Ioways last season?" "Yes, it is true we made -a kind of peace with them, but you know they are bad men; we do -not like them; the whites do not like them; perhaps it was a party -of that nation, and not Sauks, that stole our horses, and you know -it was very hard to be obliged, after all our difficulties and -starvations, to return to our people without either scalps or -horses. We wished to obtain some trophy that should repay us for -our toils." In the evening they sang for our amusement a number of -tunes, whilst two or three danced as well as they could in our -small chamber. A negro belonging to the Fur Company coming in on -an errand, they spoke of him as the _black white man_, and one of -them jokingly said, he was a Wasabajinga, or little black -bear.[204] - -The Indians departed early on the 7th, with many thanks for the -attention they had received. Before they went, they presented to -us a wild cat, which {180} they had shot, but we advised them to -keep it to eat on the way home, upon which they thanked us for it, -as if they had never owned it. - -11th. We learn that a third war-party of Omawhaws, who departed in -pursuit of the Sauks before either of the others, were met by a -strong party of that nation, who were on their way to the Omawhaw -village; they however escaped from them with the loss of one man -killed and several wounded; the loss of the Sauks is not known. -The party speak highly of one of their number, a boy of twelve -years, who, at a critical juncture of the engagement, ran up to -several of the enemy and flashed his gun three times at them; he -escaped unhurt. - - -FOOTNOTES: - - [189] I. _Vespertilio pruinosus._--Ears large, short, - not so long as the head, hairy on the exterior side more than - half their length; _tragus_ very obtuse at tip, arcuated; - _canine teeth_ large, prominent; _incisors_, only one distinct - one on each side, placed very near the canine, conic, almost - on a line with it, and furnished with a small tubercle on its - exterior base; _nostrils_ distant; _fur_ of the back, long, - black brown at base, then pale brownish-yellow, then blackish, - then white; towards the rump dark ferruginous takes the place - of the brownish-yellow on the fur; _beneath_ the colours are - similar to those of the back; but on the anterior portion of - the breast the fur is not tipped with white, and on the throat - it is dull yellowish-white dusky at base; the brachial - membrane is densely hairy on the anterior margin beneath; - interfemoral membrane covered with fur: length nearly 4-1/2 - inches. - - This bat is common in this region, and was observed by Mr. - Thomas Nuttall at Council Bluffs. It is a fine large species, - and remarkable for its many-coloured fur. It has much affinity - with the New York bat, (V. novaboracensis,) but is more than - double its size, and is distinguished from it by many minor - characters. - - The late professor Barton, presented a specimen of this bat to - the Philadelphia museum, that had been captured in Philadelphia. - - 2. _Vespertilio arquatus._--_Head_ large, _ears_ rather shorter - than the head, wide, and at tip, rounded, hairy at base, - posterior edge with two slight and very obtuse emarginations; - the anterior base distant from the eye; _tragus_ arquated, - obtuse at tip; interfemoral membrane naked, including the tail - to one half of the penultimate joint. - - Total length 5 inches: tail 1-1/2 inches. - - Expansion more than 13 inches. - - This bat might be readily mistaken for the Carolina bat, - (V. carolinensis, Geoff.) which it resembles in colour, but - differs from it in being of a larger size, the ears broader and - proportionally shorter, and an arquated tragus, curving in an - almost luniform manner towards the anterior portion of the ear, - like that of the V. _serotinus_, Daub. Geoff., though not so - broad. The upper incisor teeth, like those of several of our - species of bats, are not prominent; they are very much inclined - forward, and do not rise at their tips above the level of the - intermediate callosity.--JAMES. - - - [190] 1. _Canis latrans._--Cinereous or gray, varied with - black above, and dull fulvous, or cinnamon; _hair_ at base - dusky plumbeous, in the middle of its length dull cinnamon, - and at tip gray or black, longer on the vertebral line; _ears_ - erect, rounded at tip, cinnamon behind, the hair dark plumbeous - at base, inside lined with gray hair; _eyelids_ edged with - black, superior eyelashes black beneath, and at tip above; - supplemental lid margined with black-brown before, and edged - with black-brown behind; _iris_ yellow; _pupil_ black-blue; - spot upon the lachrymal sac black-brown; rostrum cinnamon, - tinctured with grayish on the nose; _lips_ white, edged with - black, three series of black seta; _head_ between the ears - intermixed with gray, and dull cinnamon, hairs dusky plumbeous - at base; _sides_ paler than the back, obsoletely fasciate with - black above the legs; _legs_ cinnamon on the outer side, more - distinct on the posterior hair: a dilated black abbreviated line - on the anterior ones near the wrist; _tail_ bushy, fusiform, - straight, varied with gray and cinnamon, a spot near the base - above, and tip black: the tip of the trunk of the tail, attains - the tip of the os calcis, when the leg is extended; _beneath_ - white, immaculate; _tail_ cinnamon towards the tip, tip black; - posterior feet four-toed, anterior five-toed. - - ft. in. - Total length (excepting the hair at tip of tail) 3 9-1/2 - Trunk of the tail 1 0-1/2 - Hind foot os calcis to tip of claw 0 7-1/5 - Fore foot elbow to tip of claw 1 0-3/4 - Ears from top of head 0 4 - Rostrum from anterior can thus of the eye 0 3-3/4 - - Taken in a trap, baited with the body of a wild cat. - - The line on the anterior side of the anterior feet, near the - wrist, is wanting in a second specimen. - - This species varies very much in size; another specimen - measured-- - - ft. in. - In total length (excepting the hair at tip of tail) 3 2-1/2 - Tail (excepting the hair at tip of tail) 0 11-3/4 - Ear from top of head to tip 0 3-5/8 - - The snout was narrower than in the preceding specimens, but in - colour similar. - - Another specimen was destitute of the cinnamon colour, - excepting on the snout, where it was but slightly apparent; - the general colour was, therefore, gray with an intermixture - of black, in remote spots and lines, varying in position and - figure with the direction of the hair. - - 2. _Canis nubilus._--Dusky, the hair cinereous at base, then - brownish-black, then gray, then black; the proportion of black - upon the hair is so considerable as to give to the whole - animal a much darker colour than the darkest of the _latrans_; - but the gray of the hairs combining with the black tips, in - the general effect, produce a mottled appearance; the gray - colour, predominates on the lower part of the sides; _ears_ - short, deep brownish-black, with a patch of gray hair on the - anterior side within; _muzzle_ blackish above; _superior - lips_, anterior to the canine teeth, gray; _inferior jaw_ at - tip, and extending in a narrowed line backwards, nearly to the - origin of the neck, gray; _beneath_ dusky ferruginous, - greyish, with long hair between the hind thighs, and with a - large white spot on the breast; the ferruginous colour is very - much narrowed on the neck, but is dilated on the lower part of - the cheeks; _legs_ brownish-black, with but a slight admixture - of gray hairs, excepting on the anterior edge of the hind - thighs, and the lower edgings of the toes, where the gray - predominates; the _tail_ is short, fusiform, a little tinged - with ferruginous black above, near the base and at tip, the - tip of the trunk hardly attaining to the os calcis; the longer - hairs of the back, particularly over the shoulders, resemble a - short sparse mane. - - ft. in. - - Length from the tip of the nose to the origin of the tail 4 3-3/4 - - Length of the trunk of the tail 1 1 - - Ear, from anterior angle to the tip 0 3-3/4 - - From the anterior angle of the ear, to the posterior - canthus of the eye, 0 4-3/4 - - From anterior canthus of the eye, to the middle of the - tip of the nose, 0 5-1/2 - - Between the anterior angles of the ears, rather more than 0 3 - - The aspect of this animal is far more fierce and formidable than - either the common red wolf, or the prairie wolf, and is of a - more robust form. The length of the ears and tail distinguish - it at once from the former, and its greatly superior size, - besides the minor characters of colour, &c., separate it from - the prairie wolf. As the black wolf (C. lycaon,) is described to - be of a deep and uniform black colour, and his physiognomy is - represented to be nearly the same as that of the common wolf, it - is beyond a doubt different from this species. It has the mane - of the _mexicanus_. It diffuses a strong and disagreeable odour, - which scented the clothing of Messrs. Peale and Dougherty, who - transported the animal several miles from where they killed it - to the cantonment. - - 1. _Sylvia celatus._--_Above_ dull greenish-olive; _rump_ and - _tail coverts_ purer greenish-olive; _primaries_ and _tail - feathers_ blackish-brown, olive-green on the exterior margins, - and white on the interior margin; _head_ very slightly and - inconspicuously crested; _crest_ with the feathers orange at - base; _bill_ horn colour, slender, base of the inferior - mandible whitish beneath; _beneath_ olivaceous yellow; - _inferior tail coverts_ pure yellow; _legs_ dusky. - - Length 5-1/4 inches. - - Shot at Engineer Cantonment early in May. This bird is - distinguished by the colour of the feathers on the crown of - the head, which are of a fulvous colour, tipped with the same - colour as that of the neck and back, so that the fulvous - colour does not appear at first sight. The wings are destitute - of any white band, and the margins of the six exterior - primaries are much paler than those of the others. We cannot - find any description of this bird; it seems, however, to - approach nearest to the S. _leucogastra_, Steph., Nashville - warbler of Wilson; but in our specimen the belly is not white, - neither does Wilson's description of the colour of the head of - his Nashville warbler agree at all with that of our bird. - - 2. _Sylvia bifasciata._--Above bluish; all beneath white; - _head_ highly varied with darker; between the eyes and bill - blackish; _bill_ black; _interscapulars_ lineate with - blackish; _wings_ blackish; _shoulders_ bluish; _wing coverts_ - with two white bands; _primaries_ margined with white on the - inner side, and with plumbeous on the exterior side; _tail_ - black; _feathers_ blackish, white on the inner margin, and - plumbeous on the exterior margin; and, excepting the two - middle ones, with a white spot on the inner side, near the - tip; _flanks_ spotted with plumbeous; _feet_ black. - - Length rather more than 4-3/4 inches. - - Shot in May, near Engineer Cantonment. This species seems to - approach very closely to S. cærulea. - - _Genus Limosa_, CUV. - - _Limosa scolopacea._--Dusky cinereous; _bill_, straight; upper - mandible a little longer, and very slightly arquated towards - the tip; the grooves continue to near the tip, about as long - again as the head, yellowish green; _tip_ black, dilated, - rugose, with a dorsal groove; _palate_ with reflected, - cartilaginous spines; _head_ with a line from the upper - mandible, passing over the eye and inferior orbit; white - _cheeks_, _chin_, _throat_, and origin of the _breast_, - cinereous; the plumage margined with dull whitish; _back_ - beneath the interscapulars, white; _rump_, plumage white, - fasciate with black; _tail coverts_, and _tail_ white fasciate - with black, which latter colour is more abundant; _lesser wing - coverts_ margined with whitish; _greater wing coverts_ black, - terminal margin white: _secondaries_ black, margin and - submargin white; _primaries_ black, interior ones very - slightly edged with white; _outer shaft_ white, a little - longer than the second; _breast_ and _belly_ white; _sides_ - spotted or undulated with blackish cinereous; _inferior tail - coverts_ with black abbreviated bands, the white prevailing; - _feet_ dirty greenish; _toes_ webbed at base, the exterior one - reaching the first joint of outer toe, the interior one very - short; _hind toe_ rather long. - - inches. - Length from tip of bill to that of the tail, 11-3/4 - Length of bill, 2-3/4 - Length of feet, 5-3/4 - Length from the knee to the origin of the feathers, 1-1/10 - - Tail projecting more than one inch beyond the tip of the wing. - - Several specimens were shot in a pond near the Bowyer creek. - Corresponds with the genus scolopax, Cuv. in having the dorsal - grooves at the tip of the upper mandible, and in having this - part dilated and rugose; but the eye is not large, nor is it - placed far back upon the head; which two latter characters, - combined with its more elevated and slender figure, and the - circumstance of the thighs being denudated of feathers high - above the knee, and the exterior toe being united to the middle - toe by a membrane, which extends as far as the first joint, - and the toes being also margined, combine to distinguish this - species from those of the genus to which the form and characters - of its bill would refer it, and approach it more closely to - _limosa_. In one specimen the two exterior primaries on each - wing were light brown, but the quills were white. It may perhaps - with propriety be considered as the type of a new genus, and - under the following characters, be placed between the genera - scolopax and limosa. - - _Bill_ longer than the head, dilated and rugose at tip: _tip_ - slightly curved downwards, and with a dorsal groove: _nasal - groove_ elongated; _feet_ long, an extensive naked space above - the knee; _toes_ slightly margined, a membrane connecting the - basal joints of the exterior toes; first of the primaries - rather longest. - - _Genus Pelidna_, CUV. - - 1. _Pelidna pectoralis._--_Bill_ black, reddish-yellow at - base; upper mandible with a few indented punctures near the - tip; _head_ above black, plumage margined with ferruginous, a - distinct brown line from the eye to the upper mandible; - _cheeks_ and _neck_ beneath cinereous very slightly tinged - with rufous, and lineate with blackish; _orbits_ and line over - the eye white; _chin_ white; _neck_ above dusky, plumage - margined with cinereous, _scapulars_, _interscapulars_, and - _wing coverts_ black, margined with ferruginous, and near the - exterior tips with whitish; _primaries_ dusky, slightly edged - with whitish, outer quill shaft white; _back_, (beneath the - interscapulars, _rump_) and _tail coverts_ black, immaculate; - _tail feathers_ dusky, margined with white at tip, two - intermediate ones longest, acute, attaining the tip of the - wings, black, edged with ferruginous: _breast_, _venter_, - _vent_ and _inferior tail coverts_ white, plumage blackish at - base; _sides_ white, the plumage towards the tail slightly - lineate with dusky; _feet_ greenish-yellow; _toes_ divided to - the base. - - Length nearly 9 inches. - Bill 1-1/8 inches. - - This bird in many respects resembles _cinclus_, but as the - average size of that bird is stated at seven inches and one or - two lines, ours is doubtless a distinct species. Many flocks - of them were seen at Engineer Cantonment, both in the spring - and autumn, the individuals of which corresponded in point of - magnitude: we add a description for the information of - ornithologists. It is described from a specimen in the - autumnal plumage. In the spring dress, the colour of the - superior part of the bird is much paler, almost destitute of - black, and the feathers are brownish, margined with pale - cinereous; the superior part of the head is always darker than - any part of the neck, and margined with ferruginous; the - plumage of the neck beneath, and the breast, does not appear - to be subject to so much change, as that of the superior part - of the body. - - 2. _Pelidna cinclus._ VAR.--Above blackish-brown, plumage - edged with cinereous, or whitish; _head_ and _neck_ above - cinereous with dilated fuscous lines; _eyebrows_ white; a - brown line between the eye and corner of the mouth, above - which the front is white; _cheeks_, _sides of the neck_, and - _throat_, cinereous, lineate with blackish-brown; _bill_ - short, straight, black; _chin_, _breast_, _belly_, _vent_, and - _inferior tail coverts_ pure white, plumage plumbeous at base; - _scapulars_ and _lesser wing coverts_ margined with white; - _greater wing coverts_ with a broad white tip; _primaries_ - surpassing the tip of the tail, blackish, slightly edged with - whitish, exterior shaft white, shafts whitish on the middle of - their length; _rump_ blackish, plumage margined at tip with - cinereous tinctured with rufous; _tail coverts_ white, - submargins black; _tail feathers_ cinereous margined with - white, two middle ones slightly longer, black, margined with - white; _legs_ blackish. A male. - - Length to tip of tail 7 inches. - Bill 7/8 of an inch. - - This bird was shot in November, near Engineer Cantonment, and - it is probably a variety of the very variable _cinclus_ in its - winter plumage.--JAMES. - - - [191] A sketch of Big Elk is given in Bradbury's _Travels_, - volume v of our series, note 52.--ED. - - - [192] Some reminiscences of White Cow (or White Buffalo), will - be found in Nebraska Historical Society _Transactions_, i, p. 79 - _et seq._--ED. - - - [193] Joshua Pilcher was a Virginian who came to St. Louis when - a young man, during the War of 1812-15, and there plied his - trade of hatter. He became a director of the bank of St. Louis, - and entered the Missouri Fur Company upon its organization, - succeeding Manuel Lisa as president upon the latter's death. - Upon the dissolution of this company, he was for a time - at Council Bluffs in charge of the American Fur Company's - interests. He succeeded William Clark as superintendent of - Indian affairs (1838), holding the position until his death, in - 1847.--ED. - - - [194] _Coluber flaviventris._--Olivaceous, beneath yellow; - inferior jaw beneath white; scales destitute of carina. - - Description. _Body_ above, olivaceous; tinged with brown on the - vertebræ; _scales_ impunctured at tip, posterior edges and basal - edge black; _skin_ black, beneath yellow, rather paler behind; - _inferior jaw_ beneath white to the origin of the plates; _head_ - with nine plates above, two longitudinal series, of about four - large scales each, intervening on each side between the two - posterior plates and the three posterior supermaxillary plates; - intermaxillary plate somewhat heptagonal, dilated, emarginate at - the mouth, superior angle obtusely pointed; _eye_ black-brown, - pupil deep black, surrounded by a whitish line, posterior - canthus with two plates. - - Plates 176, scales 84 - Plates 174, - ---- - - ft. in. - Total length 3 4-1/2 - Tail 8-5/8 - Head, to the tip of the maxillary bones 1-3/20 - - Another specimen, plates 130, scales 91. - Total length 3 11-3/8 - Tail 11-1/2 - - Three specimens were found. The inferior surface of one was - immaculate, but that of the smaller one had on each side of - the plates an obsolete double series of reddish-brown spots, - irregularly alternate on each side; these were so indistinct - as not to be noticed at the first glance of the eye. The tip - of the tail in this last is deficient. - - 2. _Coluber parietalis._--Above blackish, with three yellowish - fillets, and about eighty red concealed spots; beneath bluish; - a series of black dots each side. - - Description. _Body_ above black-brown, a vertebral greenish - yellow vitta, and a lateral pale yellow one, beneath which is - a fuliginous shade; between the dorsal and lateral vitta are - about eighty concealed red spots or semifasciæ, formed upon the - skin and lateral margins of the scales, obsolete towards the - cloaca, at which the series terminates; _scales_ elongated, - all carinate, and slightly reflexed at the lateral edges; - _head_ dark olive, beneath white, _parietal plates_ with a - double white spot at the middle of the suture; _intermaxillary - plate_ subhexagonal, emarginate at the mouth, and at tip hardly - angulated, almost rounded in that part, transverse diameter - nearly double the longitudinal; _superior maxillary plates_ - white, intermediate sutures blackish; _eye_ yellowish, pupil - black, posterior canthus two-scaled, beneath bluish green, a - longitudinal series of black dots each side at the base of the - scuta, terminating at the cloaca. - - Plates 165, scales 88. - - ft. in. - Total length 1 3-3/10 - Tail 4-9/10 - - This is a common serpent in this section of country. In order - to render the lateral red spots very apparent, it is necessary - to dilate the skin, when they exhibit a very striking - character, being of a vermilion red. It varies in having the - lateral series of red spots alternating with a series of - smaller red spots nearer to the dorsal line. - - In common with _ordinatus_ it has a double common white spot - on the parietal plates, and a series of black spots on each - side of the interior surface of the body; but in addition to - the proportions of plates, and scales, and length of tail, the - red colour of the lateral concealed spots very sufficiently - denotes its specific dissimilarity from that most common of - the serpents of the United States. - - 3. _Coluber proximus._--Body above black, trilineate, - vertebral line ocraceous, lateral one yellowish, a double - white spot on the parietal plates. - - Description. _Body_ above black, with three vittæ; vertebral - vitta ocraceous, occupying the dorsal series of scales and a - moiety of each one of the second series each side; lateral - vitta greenish-yellow, occupying more than the moiety of the - seven and eight series of scales: beneath the lateral vitta - the black is tinged with greenish-blue; _head_ with seven - olivaceous plates above; parietal ones with a double, white, - longitudinal spot: _intermaxillary plate_ pentangular, the - superior termination obtusely rounded; _posterior canthus of - the eye_ three-scaled, of which the two inferior ones are - white; _anterior canthus_ white; _supermaxillary plates_ - bluish-green; _maxillary angles_ with a small black dot; - _inferior maxilla_ white beneath; beneath pale greenish-blue. - - Plates 178, scales 86. - - Total length 2 ft. 7-1/4 in. - Tail 7-3/4 in. - - Resembles _Coluber saurita_, _ordinatus_ and _parietalis_. - Numerous longitudinal, abbreviated white lines, may be - observed by dilating the black portion of the skin as in - _ordinatus_; these lines or spots are obsolete upon the neck - and upon the posterior portion of the body. The extreme tip of - the tail is wanting in this specimen. - - It differs from _saurita_ in the numerical proportion which - its subcaudal scales bear to its plates; from _ordinatus_ it - may be distinguished by being destitute of the two series of - black points beneath; it is a much more slender serpent than - _parietalis_, and the tail is proportionally longer.--JAMES. - - - [195] The name of this dance is apparently a derivative of the - Canadian-French _gingue_ (_se mettre en_), meaning to engage in - the gaiety of a lively company. The verb _ginguer_ means to run - or jump hither and thither; it is a derivative of the Norman - _giguer_, which has the same meaning.--ED. - - - [196] Lucien Fontenelle, born in New Orleans of French parents, - fled from his home when fifteen years of age, and engaged in the - fur-trade at St. Louis. Later he became a leader in the mountain - explorations of the American Fur Company. His wife was an Omaha - woman, and some of his descendants were prominent in the history - of Nebraska; a son, Logan Fontenelle, became a chief of the - Omaha tribe. Fontenelle is supposed by some to have committed - suicide at Fort Laramie, about 1836, but the manner of his death - is uncertain.--ED. - - - [197] The Gens des Feuilles (People of the Leaves) were the - Assiniboin tribe of the Siouan family. Lewis and Clark reported - their numbers at two hundred and fifty men. At that time they - lived on White River, in South Dakota.--ED. - - - [198] In Dickinson County, Iowa.--ED. - - - [199] Sha-mon-e-kus-se.--JAMES. - - - [200] Loup (Wolf) River is a large northern tributary of - the Platte, which empties into the latter a few miles below - Columbus, Platte County. It rises in the arid sand hills of - northwestern Nebraska, and flows southeast for three hundred - miles to the confluence. It is sometimes called the Pawnee Loup - River, from the dominant Indian tribe on its waters.--ED. - - - [201] One of the ladies was Madam Lisa; the name of the other is - not known. They are supposed to have been the first white women - to ascend the Missouri to this point.--ED. - - - [202] Daniel Ketchum owed his title of major to a brevet awarded - for distinguished services at the battle of Niagara Falls. - He entered the army early in the war as second lieutenant in - the 25th Infantry, and rose through a first lieutenancy to a - captaincy in 1813. He died in 1828.--ED. - - - [203] Little is recorded concerning this individual. His name - was probably Michael, and he had been a United States army - officer. The circumstances of his death are better known than - the incidents of his life, he having been killed by the Indians - (1823) on the Yellowstone.--ED. - - - [204] Compare the astonishment of the Indians at the appearance - of Captain Clark's negro servant York, in Thwaites, _Original - Journals of the Lewis and Clark Expedition_, index.--ED. - - - - -{181} CHAPTER X[205] - - Account of the Omawhaws--Their manners and customs, and - religious rites--Historical notices of Black Bird, late - principal chief. - - -A great portion of the information contained in the following -pages, respecting the Missouri Indians, and particularly the -Omawhaws, was obtained from Mr. John Dougherty, deputy Indian -agent for the Missouri, who had an excellent opportunity of making -himself acquainted with the natives, by residing for a time in the -Omawhaw village, and by visiting all the different nations of this -river. - -This gentleman with great patience, and in the most obliging -manner, answered all the questions which I proposed to him, -relating to such points in their manners, habits, opinions, and -history, as we had no opportunity of observing ourselves. And we -have much to regret that it is not in our power to present the -reader with a biographical sketch of this amiable and intrepid -traveller. - -The permanent Omawhaw village is situate on Omawhaw Creek, within -two and a half miles of the Missouri river, and about one hundred -miles by water above Engineer Cantonment, and seventy by land. It -consists of dirt lodges, similar to those of the Konzas already -described. Omawhaw creek takes its rise from the bluffs in the -rear of the village, and discharges into the river at the distance -of seven miles below. About two miles from the town it dilates -into a large pond, which is filled with luxuriant {182} aquatic -plants, amongst which the zizania and nelumbium, are particularly -worthy of note both for their beauty and importance for economical -purposes. A fertile prairie, of the length of four miles by one -mile and three quarters wide, is outspread in front of the -village, and is bounded near the river by a narrow line of timber. - -The inhabitants occupy their village not longer than five months -in the year. In April they arrive from their hunting excursions, -and in the month of May they attend to their horticultural -interests, and plant maize, beans, pumpkins, and water-melons, -besides which they cultivate no other vegetable. They also at this -season dress the bison skins, which have been procured during the -winter hunt, for the traders, who generally appear for the purpose -of obtaining them. The young men, in the mean time, are employed -in hunting within the distance of seventy or eighty miles around -for beaver, otter, deer, musk-rat, elk, &c. - -When the trading and planting occupations of the people are -terminated, and provisions begin to fail them, which occurs -generally in June, the chiefs assemble a council for the purpose -of deliberating upon the further arrangements necessary to be -made. This assembly decrees a feast to be prepared on a certain -day, to which all the distinguished men of the nation are to be -invited, and one of their number is appointed to have it prepared -in his own lodge. On the return of this individual to his -dwelling, he petitions his squaws to have pity on him, and proceed -to clean and adjust the apartment, to spread the mats and skins -for seats, and to collect wood and bring water for cooking. He -requests them to provide three or four large kettles, to prepare -the maize, and to kill their fattest dog for a feast. The squaws -generally murmur at this last proposition, being reluctant to -sacrifice these animals, which are so serviceable to them in -carrying burdens, like the dogs of the oberrating Tartars; but -when they are informed {183} of the honour that awaits them, of -feasting all the distinguished men, they undertake their duties -with pride and satisfaction. - -When they have performed their part, the squaws give notice to the -husband, who then calls two or three old public criers to his -lodge; he invites them to be seated near him, and after the -ceremony of smoking, he addresses them in a low voice, directing -them to pass through the village, and invite the individuals whom -he names to them, to honour him by their presence at the feast, -which is now prepared, "Speak in a loud voice," says he, "and tell -them to bring their bowls and spoons." The criers having thus -received their instructions, sally out together, and in concert -sing aloud as they pass in various directions through the village. -In this song of invitation, the names of all the elect are -mentioned. Having performed this duty, they return to the lodge, -and are soon followed by the chiefs and warriors. - -The host seats himself in the back part of the lodge facing the -entrance, where he remains during the ceremony. - -If the host is invested with the dignity of chief, he directs -those who enter, where to seat themselves, so that the chiefs may -be arranged on one side, and the warriors on the other; if he is a -warrior, he seats the principal chief of the village by his side, -who whispers in his ear the situation which those who enter ought -to occupy; this intimation is repeated aloud by the host. - -When the guests are all arranged, the pipe is lighted, and the -indispensable ceremony of smoking succeeds. - -The principal chief, Ongpatonga, then rises, and extending his -expanded hand towards each in succession,[206] gives thanks to -them individually by name, for the honour {184} of their company, -and requests their patient attention to what he is about to say. -He then proceeds somewhat in the following manner. "Friends and -relatives: we are assembled here for the purpose of consulting -respecting the proper course to pursue in our next hunting -excursion, or whether the quantity of provisions at present on -hand, will justify a determination to remain here to weed our -maize. If it be decided to depart immediately, the subject to be -then taken into view will be the direction, extent, and object -of our route; whether it would be proper to ascend Running-Water -creek, (Ne-bra-ra, or Spreading water), or the Platte, (Ne-bres-kuh, -or Flat water), or hunt the bison between the sources of those two -streams; or whether we shall proceed farther, towards the black -hills of the south-west, in pursuit of wild horses, &c." - -Having thus disclosed the business of the council, he is -frequently succeeded by an old chief, who thanks him for his -attention to their wants, and advises the assembly to pay great -attention to what he has said, as he is a man of truth, of -knowledge, and of bravery; he further assures them, that they have -ample cause to return thanks to the great Wahconda or Master of -life, for having sent such a man amongst them. - -The assembly then take the subject into consideration, and after -much conversation, determine upon a route, which Ongpatonga -proposed in his speech. This chief, previous to the council, is -careful to ascertain the opinions and wishes of his people, and he -speaks accordingly. - -He sometimes, however, meets with opposition from persons who -propose other hunting grounds, but their discourses are filled -with compliments to his superior knowledge and good sense. - -The proceedings of the council are uniformly conducted with the -most perfect good order and decorum. - -{185} Each speaker carefully abstains from militating against the -sensibility of any of his hearers, and uncourteous expressions -towards each other on these occasions, are never heard. Generally -at each pause of the speaker, the audience testify their -approbation aloud, by the interjection _heh_; and as they believe -that he has a just right to his own opinions, however absurd they -may appear to be, and opposite to their own, the expression of -them excites no reprehension, and if they cannot approve, they do -not condemn, unless urged by necessity. - -During the council, the criers remain seated near the fire -listening to the proceedings, and at the same time attending to -the culinary apparatus, as neither the squaws nor the children are -admitted. - -When the food is sufficiently cooked, the criers remove the -kettles from the fire, and, at the proper time, one of them takes -up a portion of the soup in a spoon, and after presenting it -towards each of the cardinal points with one hand, whilst the -other is elevated, and the palm extended, he casts it into the -ashes of the fire; a small piece of the choice part of the meat is -also sacrificed to the great Wahconda with the same formality, and -is doubtless intended as an impetratory oblation. - -They then serve out the food to the guests, placing the best -portions of it before the chiefs. Each individual on the -reception of his portion, returns his thanks to the host in -such respectful expressions as become his relative consequence, -as How-je-ne-ha--How-we-sun-guh--How-na-ga-ha, &c.; thank you -father--thank you younger brother--thank you uncle, &c., after -which they eat in silence. The criers help themselves out of the -kettles, but are careful to leave a portion in those that are -borrowed, to compensate for their use. - -The feast terminated, the ceremony of smoking succeeds, after -which, the business and enjoyments of the council being concluded, -the guests rise up in {186} succession, and returning thanks to -the host, pass out of the lodge in an orderly manner, first the -warriors and afterwards the chiefs. - -The criers now sing through the village in praise of the host, -thanking him before the people for his hospitality, repeating also -the names of the chiefs who were present, and thanking them for -their kindness to the old criers, who, they say, are disqualified -by age for any other occupations than those of eating, smoking, -and talking; they also communicate to the people the resolutions -of the council. - -The prospect of a journey is highly grateful to the squaws, who -lose no time in preparing for the day of departure, by actively -and assiduously occupying themselves in mending mockasins and -other clothing, preparing their pack-saddles and dog-sleds, and -depositing in the earth, for safe keeping, all the moveables which -are not to be transported with them on the journey. - -The men in the mean time amuse themselves with hunting, playing -with the hoop and stick, cards, dancing, &c.; whilst at night the -young warriors and beaux are occupied with affairs of gallantry, -or contriving assignations. The young men also adorn themselves -with paint, and do honour to chiefs and distinguished braves, by -dancing in their respective lodges. - -The day assigned for their departure having arrived, the squaws -load their horses and dogs, and take as great a weight upon their -own backs as they can conveniently transport, and, after having -closed the entrances to their several habitations, by placing a -considerable quantity of brushwood before them, the whole nation -departs from the village. - -Those affluent chiefs and warriors who are the owners of many -horses, are enabled to mount their families on horseback, but the -greater portion {187} of the young men and squaws are necessarily -pedestrians. - -Many of the latter, besides the heavy load upon their backs, -surmounted perhaps by an infant, lead a horse with one hand, on -the load of which another child is often placed, and properly -secured there in a sitting posture. In the other hand they often -bear a heavy staff of wood, sharpened to a broad edge at one end -for the purpose of digging up the _Nu-ga-re_, or ground-apple, -called by the French _Pomme blanche_; a root resembling a long -turnip, about the size of a hen's egg, with a rough thick skin, -and hard pith. It is sometimes eaten raw, and has a sweet taste, -but is rather dry; or it is dried in the sun, and pulverized; in -this state it furnishes the chief ingredient of an excellent soup. - -The men scatter about in every direction to reconnoitre the -country for enemies and game; but, notwithstanding the constant -activity of the hunters, the people are often much necessitated -for food previously to their arrival within view of the bisons, an -interval of fifteen or twenty days. - -When at length the highly welcome news is brought of the proximity -of a herd of these animals, the nation proceeds to encamp at the -nearest water-course. - -The travelling huts, or as they are usually denominated, skin -lodges, are neatly folded up, and suspended to the pack-saddle of -the horse, for the purpose of transportation. The poles intended -to sustain it are at one extremity, laid upon the neck of the -horse, whilst the opposite end trails upon the ground behind. When -pitched, the skin lodge is of a high conic form; they are -comfortable, effectually excluding the rain, and in cold weather a -fire is kindled in the centre, the smoke of which passes off -through the aperture in the top; on one side of this aperture is a -small triangular wing of skin, which serves for a cover {188} in -rainy weather, and during the rigors of winter to regulate the -ascent of the smoke. The doorway is a mere opening in the skin, -and closed when necessary by the same material. They are often -fancifully ornamented on the exterior, with figures, in blue and -red paint, rudely executed, though sometimes depicted with no -small degree of taste. - -The hunters, who are in advance of the main body on the march, -resort to telegraphic signals, from an elevated position, to -convey to the people information respecting their discoveries. If -they see bisons, they throw up their robes in a peculiar manner, -as a signal for a halt; another disposition of the robe intimates -the proximity of an enemy; and if one of their party has been -killed, two of the survivors communicate the intelligence by -running towards each other from a little distance, and on passing, -one of them casts himself upon the earth. - -On perceiving these latter signals, the warriors of the nation -cast the burdens from the horses, and with their martial weapons -ride in full speed to meet them, exhibiting more the appearance of -a race, than an ordinary advance to mortal combat. - -The hunters, after making the signal for bisons, to induce the -people to halt and encamp, return as expeditiously as possible, -and on their approach are received with some ceremony. The chiefs -and magi are seated in front of their people, puffing smoke from -their pipes, and thanking the Master of life, with such -expressions as "How-wa-con-da," "Thanks Master of life,"-- -"How-nin-e-shet-ta-wa-con-da-a-mah-pan-ne-nah-pa-e-wa-rat-a-cum-ba-ra."-- -"Thank you, Master of life, here is smoke, I am poor, hungry, and -want to eat." The hunters draw near to the chiefs and magi, and in -a low tone of voice inform them of the discovery of bisons. They -are questioned as to the number, and reply by holding up to the -view some small sticks in a horizontal position, {189} and compare -one herd at a stated distance with this stick, and another with -that, &c. - -It is then the business of some old man or crier to harangue the -people, informing them of the discovery, requesting the squaws to -keep in good heart, telling them they have endured many hardships -with fortitude, that there is now a termination to their -difficulties for the present, and that on the morrow the men will -go in pursuit of the bisons, and without doubt bring them plenty -of meat. - -On all occasions of public rejoicings, festivals, dances, or -general hunts, a certain number of resolute warriors are -previously appointed, to preserve order, and keep the peace. In -token of their office they paint themselves entirely black; -usually wear the _crow_, and arm themselves with a whip or -war-club, with which they punish on the spot those who misbehave, -and are at once both judges and executioners. Thus, at the bison -hunts, they knock down or flog those whose manoeuvres tend to -frighten the game, before all are ready, or previously to their -having arrived at the proper point, from which to sally forth upon -them. - -Four or five such officers, or soldiers, are appointed at a -council of the chiefs, held in the evening, to preserve order -amongst the hunters for the succeeding day. - -On the following morning, all the men, excepting the superannuated, -depart early in pursuit of the favourite game. They are generally -mounted, armed with bows and arrows. The soldiers of the day -accompany the rapidly moving cavalcade on foot, armed with -war-clubs, and the whole are preceded by a footman bearing a pipe. - -On coming in sight of the herd, the hunters talk kindly to their -horses, applying to them the endearing names of father, brother, -uncle, &c.; they petition them not to fear the bisons, but to run -well, {190} and keep close to them, but at the same time to avoid -being gored. - -The party having approached as near to the herd as they suppose -the animals will permit, without taking alarm, they halt, to give -the pipe-bearer an opportunity to perform the ceremony of smoking, -which is considered necessary to their success. He lights his -pipe, and remains a short time with his head inclined, and the -stem of the pipe extended towards the herd. He then smokes, and -puffs the smoke towards the bisons, towards the heavens, and the -earth, and finally to the cardinal points successively. These last -they distinguish by the terms _sunrise_, _sunset_, _cold country_, -and _warm country_ or they designate them collectively, by the -phrase of the _four winds_, _Ta-da-sa-ga-to-ba_. - -The ceremony of smoking being performed, the word for starting is -given by Ongpatonga. They immediately separate into two bands, who -pass in full speed to the right and left, and perform a -considerable circuit, with the object of enclosing the herd, at a -considerable interval, between them. - -They then close in upon the animals, and each man endeavours to -kill as many of them as his opportunity permits. - -It is upon this occasion that the Indians display their -horsemanship, and dexterity in archery. Whilst in full run they -discharge the arrow with an aim of much certainty, so that it -penetrates the body of the animal behind the shoulder. If it -should not bury itself so deeply as they wish, they are often -known to ride up to the enraged animal and withdraw it. They -observe the direction and depth to which the arrow enters, in -order to ascertain whether or not the wound is mortal, of which -they can judge with a considerable degree of exactness; when a -death-wound is inflicted, the hunter raises a shout of exultation, -to prevent others from pursuing the individual of which {191} he -considers himself certain. He then passes in pursuit of another, -and so on, until his quiver is exhausted, or the game has passed -beyond his further pursuit. - -The force of the arrow, when discharged by a dexterous and -athletic Indian, is very great, and we were even credibly -informed, that under favourable circumstances, it has been known -to pass entirely through the body of a bison, and actually to fly -some distance, or fall to the ground on the opposite side of the -animal. - -Notwithstanding the apparent confusion of this engagement, and -that the same animal is sometimes feathered by arrows from -different archers, before he is despatched, or considered mortally -wounded, yet as each man knows his own arrows from all others, and -can also estimate the nature of the wound, whether it would -produce a speedy death to the animal, quarrels respecting the -right of property in the prey seldom occur, and it is consigned to -the more fortunate individual, whose weapon penetrated the most -vital part. - -The chase having terminated, each Indian can trace back his -devious route to the starting-place, so as to recover any small -article he may have lost. - -This surrounding chase the Omawhaws distinguish by the name of -Ta-wan-a-sa. - -A fleet horse well trained to the hunt, runs at the proper -distance, with the reins thrown upon his neck, parallel with the -bison, turns as he turns, and does not cease to exert his speed -until the shoulder of the animal is presented, and the fatal arrow -is implanted there. He then complies with the motion of his rider, -who leans to one side, in order to direct his course to another -bison. Such horses as these are reserved by their owners -exclusively for the chase, and are but rarely subjected to the -drudgery of carrying burdens. - -When the herd has escaped, and those that are {192} only wounded -or disabled are secured, the hunters proceed to flay and cut up -the slain. - -Formerly, when the chiefs possessed a greater share of power than -they now do, one of them would advance towards a carcass which -struck his fancy, either from its magnitude or fatness, and the -rightful owner would relinquish it to him without a word; but they -now seldom put the generosity of the people thus to the test. - -Some individual will usually offer his bison to the medicine, -either voluntarily, or at the request of a chief, and on the -succeeding day it is cooked, and all the distinguished men are -invited to partake of the feast. - -In the operation of butchering, a considerable knowledge of the -anatomical structure of the animal is exhibited, in laying open -the muscles properly, and extending them out into the widest and -most entire surfaces, by a judicious dissection. - -If they are much pressed by hunger, they in the first place open -the flank in order to obtain the kidneys, which are then eaten -without waiting for the tardy process of culinary preparation. - -A hunter who has been unsuccessful, assists some one in skinning -and cutting up, after which he thrusts his knife in the part he -wishes for his own share, and it is given to him. - -If the squaws should arrive, the knife is resigned to them, whilst -the men retire a short distance from the scene, to smoke and rest -themselves. - -The slaughtered animals are chiefly, and almost exclusively, cows -selected from the herd; the bulls being eatable only in the months -of May and June. - -Every eatable part of the animal is carried to the camp and -preserved, excepting the feet and the head; but the brains are -taken from the skull for the purpose of dressing the skin, or -converting it into Indian leather. Those skins which are obtained -during this season are known by the name _Summer skins_, and {193} -are used in the construction of their skin lodges, and for their -personal cloathing for summer wear. - -Three squaws will transport all the pieces of the carcass of a -bison, excepting the skin, to the camp, if the latter is at any -moderate distance; and it is their province to prepare the meat, -&c. for keeping. - -The vertebræ are comminuted by means of stone-axes, similar to -those which are not unfrequently ploughed up out of the earth in -the Atlantic states; the fragments are then boiled, and the rich -fat or medulla which rises, is carefully skimmed off and put up in -bladders for future use. The muscular coating of the stomach is -dried; the smaller intestines are cleaned and inverted, so as to -include the fat that had covered their exterior surface, and then -dried; the larger intestines, after being cleaned, are stuffed -with meat, and cooked for present eating. - -The meat, with the exception of that of the shoulders, or hump, as -it is called, is then dissected with much skill into large thin -slices, and dried in the sun, or jerked over a slow fire on a low -scaffold. - -The bones of the thighs, to which a small quantity of flesh is -left adhering, are placed before the fire until the meat is -sufficiently roasted, when they are broken, and the meat and -marrow afford a most delicious repast. These, together with the -tongue and hump, are esteemed the best parts of the animals. - -The meat, in its dried state, is closely condensed together into -quadrangular packages, each of a suitable size, to attach -conveniently to one side of the packsaddle of a horse. The dried -intestines are interwoven together into the form of mats, and tied -up into packages of the same form and size. They then proceed to -_cache_, or conceal in the earth these acquisitions, after which -they continue onward in pursuit of other herds of their favourite -animal. - -The nation return towards their village in the month of August, -having visited for a short time the {194} Pawnee villages, for the -purpose of trading their guns for horses. - -They are sometimes so successful in their expedition, in the -accumulation of meat, as to be obliged to make double trips, -returning about mid-day for half the whole quantity which was left -in the morning. When within two or three days journey of their own -village, runners are despatched to it, charged with the duty of -ascertaining the safety of it, and the state of the maize. - -On the return of the nation, which is generally early in September, -a different kind of employment awaits the ever-industrious squaws. -The property buried in the earth is to be taken up and arranged -in the lodges, which are cleaned out and put in order. The weeds -which, during their absence, had grown up in every direction -through the village, are cut down and removed. - -A sufficient quantity of sweet corn is next to be prepared for -present and future use. Whilst the maize is yet in the milk or -soft state, and the grains have nearly attained to their full -size, it is collected and boiled on the cob; but the poor who -have no kettles, place the ear, sufficiently guarded by its husk, -in the hot embers until properly cooked; the maize is then dried, -shelled from the cob, again exposed to the sun, and afterwards -packed away for keeping, in neat leathern sacks. The grain -prepared in this manner has a shrivelled appearance, and a sweet -taste, whence its name. It may be boiled at any season of the year -with nearly as much facility as the recent grain, and has much the -same taste. - -They also pound it into a kind of small hominy, which when boiled -into a thick mush, with a proper proportion of the smaller -entrails and jerked meat, is held in much estimation. - -When the maize which remains on the stalk is fully ripe, it is -gathered, shelled, dried, and also packed away in leathern sacks. -They sometimes {195} prepare this hard corn for eating, by the -process of leying it, or boiling it in a ley of wood-ashes for the -space of an hour or two, which divests it of the hard exterior -skin; after which it is well washed and rinsed. It may then be -readily boiled to an eatable softness, and affords a palatable -food. - -The hard ripe maize is also broken into small pieces between two -stones, one or two grains at a time, the larger stone being placed -on a skin, that the flying fragments may not be lost. This coarse -meal is boiled into a mush called Wa-na-de. It is sometimes -parched previously to being pounded, and the mush prepared from -this description of meal is distinguished by the term Wa-jun-ga. -With each of these two dishes, a portion of the small prepared -intestines of the bison, called Ta-she-ba, are boiled, to render -the food more sapid. - -Their pumpkins, Wat-tong, are boiled, or rather steamed, as the -pot is filled with them cut in slices, with the addition of a very -small quantity of water. But the greater number of these -vegetables are cut into long slips, and, as well as the smaller -intestines and stomach of the bison, cut in pieces, are interwoven -as before mentioned into a kind of network. - -A singular description of food is made use of by some tribes of -the Snake Indians, consisting chiefly, and sometimes wholly of a -species of ant, (formica, Lin.) which is very abundant in the -region in which they roam. The squaws go in the cool of the -morning to the hillocks of these active insects, knowing that then -they are assembled together in the greatest numbers. Uncovering -the little mounds to a certain depth, the squaws scoop them up in -their hands, and put them into a bag prepared for the purpose. -When a sufficient number are obtained, they repair to the water, -and cleanse the mass from all the dirt and small pieces of wood -collected with them. The ants are then placed upon a flat stone, -and by the pressure of a rolling-pin, are crushed together into a -dense {196} mass, and rolled out like pastry. Of this substance a -soup is prepared, which is relished by the Indians, but is not at -all to the taste of white men. Whether or not this species of ant -is analogous to the vachacos, which Humboldt speaks of, as -furnishing food to the Indians of the Rio Negro and the Guainia, -we have no opportunity of ascertaining. - -We could not learn that any one of the nations of the Missouri -Indians are accused, even by their enemies, of eating human flesh -from choice, or for the gratification of a horrible luxury: -starvation alone can induce them to eat of it. An Ioway Indian, -however, having killed an Osage, compelled some children of his -own nation to eat of the uncooked flesh of the thigh of his -victim. And a Sioux of the St. Peter's dried some of the flesh of -a Chippeway whom he had killed, and presented it to some white -men, who ate it without discovering the imposition. - -The Indians, like the Hottentots, Negroes, and monkeys, eat the -lice which they detect in each others heads. The squaws search for -these parasites; and we have often seen them thus occupied with -activity, earnestness, and much success. One of them, who was -engaged in combing the head of a white man, was asked why she did -not eat the vermin; she replied, that "white men's lice are not -good." - -Although the bison cow produces a rich milk, yet the Indians make -no use of that of the individuals they kill in hunting. - -During these active employments, which the squaws cheerfully and -even emulously engage in, the occupations of the men are chiefly -those of amusement or recreation. - -Numbers of the young warriors are very officious in offering their -services to the squaws, as protectors during their field labours; -and from the opportunities they enjoy of making love to their -charge in the privacy of high weeds, it is extremely common for -them to form permanent attachments to the wives {197} of their -neighbours, and an elopement to another nation is the consequence. - -The men devote a portion of their time to card-playing. Various -are the games which they practise, of which one is called -_Matrimony_; but others are peculiar to themselves: the following -is one, to which they seem to be particularly devoted. - -The players seat themselves around a bison robe spread on the -ground, and each individual deposits in the middle the articles -he intends to stake, such as vermilion, beads, knives, blankets, -&c., without any attention to the circumstance of equalizing its -value with the deposits made by his companions. - -Four small sticks are then laid upon the robe, and the cards are -shuffled, cut, and two are given to each player, after which the -trump is turned. The hands are then played, and whoever gains two -tricks takes one of the sticks. If two persons make each a trick, -they play together until one loses his trick, when the other takes -a stick. The cards are again dealt, and the process is continued -until all the sticks are taken, If four persons have each a stick, -they continue to play, to the exclusion of the unsuccessful -gamesters. When a player wins two sticks, four cards are dealt to -him, that he may take his choice of them. If a player wins three -sticks, six cards are dealt to him, and should he take the fourth -stick he wins the stake. - -They are so inveterately attached to the heinous vice of gambling, -that they are known to squander in this way every thing they -possess, with the solitary exception of their habitation, which, -however, is regarded more as the property of the woman than of the -man. - -A game, to which the squaws are very much devoted, is called by -the Omawhaws _Kon-se-ke-da_, or plumstone-shooting. It bears some -resemblance to that of dice. Five plumstones are provided, three of -which are marked on one side only with a greater {198} or smaller -number of black dots or lines, and two of them are marked on both -sides. They are, however, sometimes made of bone, of a rounded and -flattened form, somewhat like an orbicular button-mould; the dots -in this case being impressed. A wide dish, and a certain number -of small sticks, by the way of counters, are also provided. Any -number of persons may play at this game, and agreeably to the -number engaged in it, is the quantity of sticks or counters. The -plumstones or bones are placed in the dish, and a throw is made by -simply jolting the vessel against the ground to cause the dice to -rebound, and they are counted as they lie when they fall. The party -plays round for the first throw. Whoever gains all the sticks in -the course of the game, wins the stake. The throws succeed each -other with so much rapidity, that we vainly endeavoured to observe -their laws of computation, which it was the sole business of an -assistant to attend to. - -The squaws sometimes become so highly interested in this game as -to neglect their food and ordinary occupations, sitting for a -whole day, and perhaps night also, solely intent upon it, until -the losers have nothing more to stake. - -Having now a plentiful store of provisions, they content -themselves in their village until the latter part of October, -when, without the formality of a council or other ceremony, they -again depart from the village, and move in separate parties to -various situations on both sides of the Missouri, and its -tributaries, as far down as the Platte. - -Their primary object at this time, is to obtain, on credit from -the traders, various articles indispensably necessary to their -fall, winter, and spring hunts: such as guns, particularly those -of _Mackinaw_, powder, ball, and flints; beaver-traps, brass, tin, -and camp-kettles; knives, hoes, squaw-axes, and tomahawks. - -Having obtained these implements, they go in pursuit {199} of -deer, or apply themselves to trapping for beaver and otter. Elk -was sometime since an object of pursuit, but these animals are -now rather rare in the Omawhaw territories. - -This hunt continues until towards the close of December, and -during the rigours of the season they experience an alternation of -abundance and scarcity of food. The men are very much exposed to -the cold, and, in trapping, to the water. They are also frequently -obliged to carry heavy burdens of game from considerable -distances. - -The assiduous hunter often returns to his temporary residence in -the evening, after unsuccessful exertions continued the live-long -day: he is hungry, cold, and fatigued; with his mockasins, -perhaps, frozen on his feet. His faithful squaw may be unable to -relieve his hunger, but she seats herself by his side near the -little fire, and after having disposed of his hunting apparatus, -she rubs his mockasins and leggings, and pulls them off, that he -may be comfortable; she then gives him water to drink, and his -pipe to smoke. His children assemble about him, and he takes one -of them upon his knee, and proceeds to relate to it the adventures -of the day, that his squaw may be informed of them. "I have been -active all day, but the Master of life has prevented me from -killing any game; but never despond, my children and your mother, -I may be fortunate to-morrow." After some time he retires to rest, -but the wife remains to dry his clothing. He often sings until -midnight, and on the morrow he again sallies forth before the -dawn, and may soon return with a superabundance of food. Such is -the life of the Indian hunter, and such the privations and -pleasures to which his being is habitually incident. - -The squaws, in addition to their occupation of flaying the animals -which their husbands entrap, and of preparing and preserving the -skins, are often necessitated to dig the pomme de terre, _noo_; -and to {200} scratch the groundpea, _himbaringa_, (the same word -is also applied to the bean,) from beneath the surface of the -soil. This vegetable is produced on the roots of the apios -tuberosa, they also frequently find it hoarded up in the quantity -of a peck or more in the brumal retreats of the field mouse, (mus -agrarius, Var?) for its winter store. The seeds of the nelumbium -luteum, analogous to the sacred bean of the Brahmins, also -contribute to their sustenance; these are distinguished by the -name Te-row-a, or bison-beaver, [_te_, bison; and _row-a_, beaver; -in the Oto dialect,] and when roasted are much esteemed. The root -of this plant is also an article of food during the privations of -this portion of the year; it is either roasted or boiled; and is -prepared for keeping by boiling, after which it is cut up in small -pieces and dried: in taste it is somewhat similar to the sweet -potato. - -With the skins of the animals obtained during this hunt, the -natives again repair to the traders to compensate them for the -articles which they had obtained on credit. But owing to the -intrigues of rival traders, the Indians are, with, however, -numerous exceptions, not remarkable for any great degree of -punctuality in making their returns to cancel their debts. Many -obtain credit from one trader, and barter their peltries with -another, to the great injury of the first. - -Like genuine traders, the Omawhaws endeavour, by various -subterfuges, to make the best of their market. An artful fellow -will assure a trader that he has a number of skins, but that he -does not wish to bring them forward, until he assembles a still -greater number; but, in the meantime, he must have a keg of -whiskey, otherwise he will barter his skins with another trader. -Another knave owes his trader, perhaps, twenty skins; but in -consequence of the unlucky occurrence of many circumstances, which -he proceeds to particularize, he can at present pay but half that -number, and the other ten, which he {201} brings with him, he -wishes to trade for other articles of merchandize. The trader -submits to the imposition thus practised, rather than lose their -custom; and is thus deservedly punished for his own deceptive -proceedings with respect to his rivals, and for the habit of -practising on the ignorance of the natives, in which many of them -freely indulge. - -Thus the Missouri traders are repaid for hardly more than half the -value of the merchandize which they credit; but should they obtain -peltries for one-third of the amount, they clear their cost and -charges. - -After having discharged their debts wholly, or in part, the -Indians exchange the remainder of their skins, for strouding for -breech-clouts and petticoats, blankets, wampum, guns, powder and -ball, kettles, vermilion, verdigrise, mockasin-awls, fire-steels, -looking-glasses, knives, chiefs' coats, calico, ornamented brass -finger-rings, arm-bands of silver, wristbands of the same metal, -ear-wheels and bobs, small cylinders for the hair, breast -brooches, and other silver ornaments for the head; black and blue -handkerchiefs, buttons, tin cups, pans and dishes, scarlet cloth, -&c. - -The man is the active agent in this barter, but he avails himself -of the advice of his squaw, and often submits to her dictation. - -Each nation of Indians practises every art they can devise, to -prevent white traders from trafficking with their neighbours, in -order to engross as much as possible of the trade themselves, and -to be the carriers at second hand to the others. For this purpose -they sometimes intrigue deeply, and resort to artful expedients. -"You do not treat your traders as we do," said a cunning Oto to -some Pawnees; "we dictate to them the rate of exchanges; and if -they persist in refusing to comply, we use force to compel them; -we flog them, and by these means we obtain our articles at a much -lower rate than you do:"--thus endeavouring to induce those people -{202} to banish traders from their village by ill treatment. - -In trade, the largest sized beaver skin is called by the French a -_plus_, and constitutes the chief standard of value. Thus as many -of any other description of skins as are considered of equal value -with this large beaver skin, are collectively denominated a -_plus_; and the number of deer, raccoon, otter, &c. that shall -respectively constitute a plus, is settled between the parties, -previously to the commencement of the exchanges. - -Brass kettles are usually exchanged for beaver skins, pound for -pound, which weight of the latter is worth about three dollars at -St. Louis. - -The beaver skins are embodied into neat packs by the traders, each -weighing one hundred pounds, and consisting of seventy or eighty -skins, according to their magnitude. - -The business of this hunt having terminated with the year, the -Omawhaws return to their village, in order to procure a supply of -maize from their places of concealment, after which they continue -their journey in pursuit of bisons. - -On this occasion they divide into two parties, one of which -ascends the Missouri, and the other the Elkhorn rivers. The party -which discovers a herd, gives notice of the fact to the other -party, by an especial messenger, and invites them to join in the -pursuit of it. - -This expedition continues until the month of April, when they -return to their village, as before stated, loaded with provisions. - -It is during this expedition that they procure all the skins, of -which the bison robes of commerce are made; the animals at this -season having their perfect winter dress, the hair and wool of -which are long and dense. - -The process of preparing the hides for the traders falls to the -lot of the squaws. Whilst in the green {203} state, they are -stretched and dried as soon as possible; and, on the return of the -nation to the village, they are gradually dressed during the -intervals of other occupations. The hide is extended upon the -ground; and with an instrument resembling an adze, used in the -manner of our carpenters, the adherent portions of dried flesh are -removed, and the skin rendered much thinner and lighter than -before. The surface is then plastered over with the brains or -liver of the animal, which have been carefully retained for the -purpose, and the warm broth of meat is also poured over it. The -whole is then dried, after which it is again subjected to the -action of the brains and broth, then stretched in a frame, and -while still wet, scraped with pumice-stone, sharp stones, or hoes, -until perfectly dry. Should it not yet be sufficiently soft, it is -subjected to friction, by pulling it backwards and forwards over a -twisted sinew. This generally terminates the operation. On the -commencement of the process, the hides are almost invariably each -divided longitudinally into two parts, for the convenience of -manipulation, and when finished, they are again united by sewing -with sinew. This seam is almost always present in the bison robe; -but one of the largest that we have seen, is used as a covering -for one of our humble beds at this cantonment, and has been -dressed entire, being entirely destitute of a seam. - -The brain of an animal is sufficient to dress its skin, and some -persons make two-thirds of it suffice for that purpose. - -The skins of the elk, deer, and antelopes are dressed in the same -manner; but those that are intended to form the covering of their -travelling lodges, for leggings, and summer mockasins, &c. have -the adze applied to the hairy side in dressing, instead of the -flesh side. - -Great numbers of these robes are annually purchased by the -traders; and Mr. Lisa assured us, that {204} he once transported -fifteen thousand of them to St. Louis in one year. - -The Indian form of government is not sufficiently powerful to -restrain the young warriors from the commission of many excesses -and outrages, which continually involve the nations in protracted -wars; and, however well disposed the chiefs may be, and desirous -to maintain the most amicable deportment towards the white people, -they have not the power to enable them to compel those restless -spirits, greedy of martial distinction, to an observance of that -pacific demeanour which their precepts inculcate. - -To accomplish this object, much depends upon the course pursued by -the agents of the United States. If the character of these is -dignified, energetic, and fearless, they will certainly meet that -respect from the natives which is due to the importance of their -missions. But, on the contrary, if their conduct is deficient in -promptness, energy, and decision; if their measures are paralyzed -by personal fear of the desperadoes, whom they must necessarily -encounter in the execution of their duties, their counsels will -fall unheeded in the assemblies which they address.[207] - -The power of some of the former rulers of the Omawhaws is said to -have been almost absolute. That of the celebrated Black -Bird,[208] Wash-ing-guh-sah-ba, seems to have been actually so, -and was retained undiminished until his death, which occurred in -the year 1800, of the smallpox, which then almost desolated his -nation. Agreeably to his orders, he was interred in a sitting -posture, on his favourite horse, upon the summit of a high bluff -of the bank of the Missouri, "that he might continue to see the -white people ascending the river to trade with his nation." A -mound was raised over his remains, on which food was regularly -placed for many years afterwards; but this rite has been -discontinued, and the staff, that {205} on its summit supported a -white flag, has no longer existence. - -This chief appears to have possessed extraordinary mental -abilities, but he resorted to the most nefarious means to -establish firmly the supremacy of his power. He gained the -reputation of the greatest of medicine men; and his medicine, -which was no other than arsenic itself, that had been furnished -him for the purpose, by the villany of the traders, was secretly -administered to his enemies or rivals. Those persons who offended -him, or counteracted his views, were thus removed agreeably to his -predictions, and all opposition silenced, apparently by the -operation of his potent spells. - -Many were the victims to his unprincipled ambition, and the nation -stood in awe of him, as of the supreme arbiter of their fate. - -With all his enormities he was favourable to the traders; and -although he compelled them to yield to him one half of their -goods, yet he commanded his people to purchase the remainder at -double prices, that the trader might still be a gainer. - -He delighted in the display of his power, and, on one occasion, -during a national hunt, accompanied by a white man, they arrived -on the bank of a fine flowing stream, and although all were -parched with thirst, no one but the white man was permitted to -taste of the water. As the chief thought proper to give no reason -for this severe punishment, it seemed to be the result of caprice. - -One inferior, but distinguished chief, called Little Bow, at -length opposed his power. This man was a warrior of high renown, -and so popular in the nation, that it was remarked of him, that he -enjoyed the confidence and best wishes of the people, whilst his -rival reigned in terror. Such an opponent could not be brooked, -and the Black Bird endeavoured to destroy him. - -{206} On one occasion the Little Bow returned to his lodge, after -the absence of a few days on an excursion. His wife placed before -him his accustomed food; but the wariness of the Indian character -led him to observe some peculiarity in her behaviour, which -assured him that all was not right; he questioned her concerning -the food she had set before him, and the appearance of her -countenance, and her replies, so much increased his suspicions, -that he compelled her to eat the contents of the bowl. She then -confessed that the Black Bird had induced her to mingle with the -food a portion of his terrible medicine, in order to destroy him. -She fell a victim to the machination of the Black Bird, who was -thus disappointed of his object. - -With a band of nearly two hundred followers, the Little Bow -finally seceded from the nation, and established a separate -village on the Missouri, where they remained until the death of -the tyrant. - -On one occasion, the Black Bird seems to have been touched by -remorse, or perhaps by penitence, in his career of enormity. One -of his squaws having been guilty of some trifling offence, he drew -his knife, in a paroxysm of rage, and stabbed her to the heart. -After viewing her dead body a few moments, he seated himself near -it, and covering his face with his robe, he remained immovable for -three days, without taking any nourishment. His people vainly -petitioned that he would "have pity on them," and unveil his face; -he was deaf to all their remonstrances, and the opinion prevailed -that he intended to die through starvation. A little child was at -length brought in by its parent, who gently raised the leg of the -chief, and placed the neck of the child beneath his foot. The -murderer then arose, harangued his people, and betook himself to -his ordinary occupations. - -Towards the latter part of his life, he became very {207} -corpulent, the consequence of indolence and repletion. He was -transported by carriers, on a bison robe, to the various feasts to -which he was daily invited; and should the messenger find him -asleep, they dared not to awaken him by a noise or by shaking, but -by respectfully tickling his nose with a straw. - -The successor of Black Bird was the Big Rabbit, Mush-shinga. He -possessed considerable authority, but he lived only a few years to -enjoy it. - -Ta-so-ne, or the White Cow, the hereditary successor of -Mush-shinga, being governed by an unambitious wife, remained -inactive; whilst the next important man, Ong-pa-ton-ga, or the Big -Elk, more distinguished for his vigorous intellect than for any -martial qualities, attained to the supreme dignity, which he still -retains. - -The power of this amiable and intelligent chief was very -considerable during the early part of his administration; and -although not so absolute as his predecessors, yet it is believed -that he could then inflict the punishment of death upon an -individual with his own hands, with impunity. Five years ago he -informed a stranger, in the presence of his people, that he could -compel any one of them to lie down before him, that he might place -his foot upon his neck; this assertion was assented to by his -hearers. - -But the influence of the grand chief of the Omawhaws has very -much diminished, in consequence of the improper distribution of -medals by the whites; so that, although one of the most -intelligent leaders that the nation has probably ever had, yet he -could hardly do more at this time than inflict a blow for the most -serious offence. Still, however, he maintains a supremacy over six -or seven medalled rivals, in despite of the intrigues of the -traders.[209] He does not now attempt to coerce any of his people, -but substitutes advice and persuasion. - -{208} By his influence and pacific councils, he has rendered the -Omawhaws a peaceful people, who limit their warfare to the -punishing of war-parties that depredate on them or their -possessions; and he exultingly affirms, that his hands are -unstained with the blood of white men. - - -FOOTNOTES: - - [205] The succeeding chapters [the last in this volume, and the - first five in the next], which relate to the manners and customs - of the Indians, chiefly the Omawhaws, are from the notes of Mr. - Say.--JAMES. - - _Comment by Ed._ With the account of the Omaha here given, - compare Dorsey, "Omaha Sociology," in Bureau of Ethnology - _Report_, 1881-82, p. 205. - - - [206] See No. 43 in Language of Signs, Appendix B, volume - xvii.--ED. - - - [207] In corroboration of the remarks given in the text, we - add the following account of an interview which Major O'Fallon - had with Indians of the Mississippi,[B] whose agent has been - hitherto unable to restrain them from carrying on warlike - operations against the Missouri Indians. - - In St. Louis, on the 3d April, 1821, B. O'Fallon, agent for - Indian affairs on Missouri, met a deputation from the Saukee - nation of Indians, on the subject of a most destructive war, - carried on by them against the Otoes, Missouries, and Omawhaws - of his agency, and spoke to them as follows:-- - - "SAUKEES, - - "I am glad you have arrived, before my departure for the - Council Bluff, as it affords me an opportunity to address - you on a subject that has agitated my mind for some time - past. Yes, Saukees, for some time past I have wished to - speak to you on a subject that even now makes the blood run - warm in my veins. - - "In addressing you upon this important subject, I shall not - speak to please your ears, but to strike your hearts. - - "Saukees, you must recollect to have seen me frequently; but - you do not know me, and I know you well. I recollect when I - first visited your land, your balls whistled round my ears. - I was then a boy, and wished to be a man--I am now a man, - with a heart as strong as my strength. - - "A few winters since, I was a chief to the red skins of the - upper Mississippi (Sioux and Foxes); I am now chief to the red - skins of Missouri, some of whose blood you have spilt. Listen - that you may hear me; dispose your minds to understand me; and - remember well what I am now going to tell you, and carry my - words to your nation, that they may not deceive themselves. - - "When I first climbed the rapid Missouri, I found the red - skins as wild as wolves. Without ears they roved through the - plains, only thirsting for each other's blood. They could - only see the storm as it gathered around them; they could - only see the clouds when they obscured the sun, and hear it - thunder when it rained: but when I sat down on their land, - they assembled around me; they listened to my words; I - settled the difference that existed between them, and gave - peace to the land. They then sat down to rest; but they - could not rest long, for the Saukees of the Mississippi, you - whom the Big Knives, like fools, have suffered to live, came - and disturbed them in their sleep. When disturbed, not like - women did they mourn their misfortunes; but like men, they - rose in arms and came to me. I did not consult my feelings; - I consulted the feelings of my nation, and I was for peace. - I told them to sit down, and they did so. Keep your ears - open that you may hear me, and raise your eyes that you may - see me, for I have saved your blood. Yes, Saukees, I - restrained their arms, and they sat down in tears. But you - were not satisfied: you presumed upon their forbearance, and - came again; but they were not asleep, and you did not spill - their blood, but you stole their horses: you stole horses - from the whites, who, like fools, had still suffered you to - live; and you murdered some traders, who were also white. - They again raised their arms; every body who were there at - the time, both whites and red skins, raised their arms, and - looked around them; but they could not see you; for, like - the timid wolf, you had sought the wood, where they could - not follow you, until they had consulted me--I, whose blood - began to boil in my veins. Saukees, my heart was for war; - but my nation was too much for peace, and it was my business - to promote peace; therefore I gave them some tobacco, and - told them once more to sit down, and endeavour to restrain - their feelings: they did so; and I left them smoking their - pipes, and came away to see the great American Chief. After - I left them, you returned again to their land: you found - them asleep; you stole their horses, murdered their women - and children, took their scalps, and carried some of them - prisoners to your villages. - - "How long, how long, Saukees, will you continue to disturb - the repose of other nations? How long will you (like the - serpent creeping through the grass) continue to disturb the - unsuspecting stranger passing through your country? Be - cautious how you disturb the red skins of Missouri; or your - women and children shall mourn the loss of husbands and - fathers--husbands and fathers shall mourn the loss of wives - and children. - - "Yes, Saukees, the Otoes, Missouries, and Omawhaws, are - unwilling to be disturbed any longer. They will no longer - suffer you to make slaves of their children, and dance their - scalps in your villages. - - "Saukees, be cautious; you live in the woods, and the game - of your country is nearly exhausted. You will soon have to - desert those woods in which the red skins of Missouri cannot - find you, and follow the buffalo in the plains, where the - red-skins are not less brave than you, and as numerous as - the buffalo. As long as you have the wood to conceal your - warriors, you may continue to disturb the women and children - of Missouri; but when hunger drives you from those woods, - your bodies will be exposed to balls, to arrows, and to - spears. You will only have time to discharge your guns, - before, on horseback, their spears will spill your blood. I - know that your guns are better than those of Missouri, and - you shoot them well: but when you reach the prairies, they - will avail you nothing against the Otoes, Missouries, - Omawhaws, and Pawnees. As you have seen the whirlwind break - and scatter the trees of your woods, so will your warriors - bend before them on horseback. (Here B. O'Fallon paused, to - give the Saukees an opportunity to reply; when one of their - most distinguished partisans arose and spoke with energy and - animation, recounting many of his feats in war. He mentioned - how often he had struck upon the tribes of Missouri, and - that the Otoes had killed his brother, whom he loved as a - father, and whose spirit could not be appeased as long as an - Oto walked erect upon the earth. He also spoke of the - difficulty of restraining his young warriors, who were - unwilling to die in obscurity. To which B. O'Fallon spoke to - the following effect:) - - "Saukees, one of your partizans, forgetting to whom he was - speaking, has had the presumption to recount his feats in - war, how often he had struck the red skins of Missouri, and - to insinuate that he was unwilling to restrain his young - men. I believe him to be a man of sense; but he has spoken - without reflection, he has spoken like a fool. - - "Saukees, it has always been, and still is, my business to - prevent (if possible) the effusion of human blood--to give - peace and happiness to the land: but when I cannot stop the - running of blood, I will probe the wound, and make it run - more fast. - - "I wish you to understand that the Otoes and Missouries, - though few in number, and much exposed, do not beg for - peace; and I do not ask it for them. They have not as yet - revenged the death of some of their murdered countrymen: the - spirits of these dead are not satisfied. No, Saukees, these - red skins, whom you persecute, have opened their ears to my - words, and are constantly looking towards me. They do not - wish a dishonourable peace. I would sooner see you drink - their blood, than suffer them to make a dishonourable peace. - You have a few of their children as prisoners among you; if - you consult the interest of your nation, you will send them - to their mothers: if you do not deliver them up, the - red-skins of Missouri will go after them; and in hunting - them they may find some of yours. - - "I tell you to be cautious, Saukees, how you disturb the red - skins of Missouri. They call themselves my children: be - cautious how you disturb my children, or I will no longer - look to the pacific disposition of my nation, but consult my - own feelings, and probe the wound which I cannot heal. - - "I am not like many white chiefs whom you have been - accustomed to see. I never act an humble part. I am one of - those white men who never fear a red skin--when I move - amongst them, it is not like a dog with his tail between his - legs, but as becomes a man; and when I speak, I feel the - strength of my nation. - - "On the Missouri I have guns, powder and balls, blankets, - breech-clouts, and leggings, and I am now getting more. I - know where you have your village, and I know the face of the - country over which you stretch your limbs. I know how and - where you are scattered on hunting excursions. I know where - you are most exposed, and what I do not know I can easily - learn from the whites, and other red skins of the Mississippi. - - "I have every thing that a red skin wants; and you all know - he wants only the means of war. You know that all red skins - are fond of war, and that I can make brother fight brother. - - "Saukees; you are a strong nation of red skins; but if you - don't endeavour to restrain the ungovernable disposition of - some of your young men, they will expose your hearts in the - midst of your strength. - - "Yes, Saukees, be cautious how you offend me; lest I - assemble an army of red skins, and from some high peak on - Missouri, show them where to find your village, and your - exposed and scattered lodges. I know that the red skins of - Missouri cannot destroy you directly; but they can give you - unpleasant dreams. Be cautious, Saukees, how you deceive - yourselves, or suffer others to deceive you, or the day will - come when some of your children will have the misfortune to - behold the dogs fighting over the bones of their fathers - upon this land; and as I may have many years to live, I - don't intend to sit still; and if I continue to increase in - strength as I have done, I may live to see the day when I - can make you smile, or shed tears of blood. Saukees, I have - done, I am going to the Council Bluff." - - The Chief of the Saukees, after consulting each warrior - separately, replied, (in substance) as follows:-- - - "American Chief, I have been attentive, and I have heard - your words, and those of the _red head_ (Gov. Clark). Yours - entered one ear, and his the other: they shall not escape - until my nation hears them. I feel the truth of all you have - said, and have never been more for peace than now. All those - braves have expressed their wish for peace with the red - skins of Missouri. This partizan, who without reflection - spoke exultingly of his feats, since he has heard your words - is also for peace; not from any fear of those whom he has - bled, but from an unwillingness to displease you, whom he - conceives to be a man of truth. - - "At our village on Rock river, and encampment at the De - Moyen, we have five Oto prisoners, whom I will promise to - deliver up, when you send for them. - - "My brother, I only regret that my nation was not present on - this occasion, to have heard your words. The wisdom of my - nation, all the reflecting men, are for peace; but we have - many young men difficult to restrain, whose ears, (I - believe,) would open to words coming from your mouth, when - mine, for the want of strength, may fail. - - "My brother, I wish you to pause--I wish you to forbear - until I disclose your words to my people, and you hear from - them. - - "My brother, we receive you as the son of the _red head_; - and inasmuch as we love him, we love you, and do not wish to - offend you."--JAMES. - - - [B] Of the Sauk nation; they call themselves Sauke-waw-ke. - - - [208] For a sketch of Blackbird, see Bradbury's _Travels_, in - our volume v, note 48.--ED. - - - [209] On the custom of giving medals to chiefs in recognition of - their leadership, see Thwaites, _Original Journals of the Lewis - and Clark Expedition_, index.--ED. - - - - - * * * * * - - - - -Transcriber's note: - -Original spelling, hyphenation, and grammar has been mostly -retained, with a few exceptions. - -Page numbers from the 1905 Edition have been omitted herein, -but may be available in other editions of this ebook. - -The Illustration "Facsimile of title-page to Volume I of James's -_Account_" on page 31 has been replaced by text, as there were -no graphics on the page. - -Hyphenation questions, when the hyphen occurred at the end of -a line, were settled in favor of internal consistency whenever -possible. - -Footnotes were moved from the bottoms of pages to the ends of -chapters. Footnotes in the Preface have only one or two digits, -e.g. "[11]"; footnotes in the body of the book have three -e.g. "[011]". - -In tables, "ditto", "do." were replaced with repetitive text for -clarity. Sometimes blank space represents repetition in a table. -The first table in Footnote 187 is an example, wherein the words -"Length" and "inches." occurred on the first line only, in the -original, but are repeated on each line in this ebook. Whenever it -was perfectly clear to the transcriber that repetition was indeed -meant by white space, text was substituted for the blank. - -In the Illustration on page 202 "INDIAN RECORD [...]", The -notation "^{x}" means that "x" should be superscript. - -Footnote 055: two periods inserted, to end the sentence, and at the -end of the footnote. - -Page 248: "permisssion" changed to "permission". - -Page 307: comma inserted after "hoes" in "camp-kettles; knives, -hoes squaw-axes,". - -Page 308: period deleted from "having disposed of his hunting -apparatus,. she rubs his". - - - -***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EARLY WESTERN TRAVELS 1748-1846, -VOLUME XIV*** - - -******* This file should be named 43751-8.txt or 43751-8.zip ******* - - -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: -http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/4/3/7/5/43751 - - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at <a -href="http://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a></p> -<p>Title: Early Western Travels 1748-1846, Volume XIV</p> -<p> Part I of James's Account of S. H. Long's Expedition, 1819-1820</p> -<p>Author: Edwin James</p> -<p>Editor: Reuben Gold Thwaites</p> -<p>Release Date: September 16, 2013 [eBook #43751]</p> -<p>Language: English</p> -<p>Character set encoding: UTF-8</p> -<p>***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EARLY WESTERN TRAVELS 1748-1846, VOLUME XIV***</p> -<h4>E-text prepared by E-text prepared by Richard W, Greg Bergquist,<br /> - and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team<br /> - (<a href="http://www.pgdp.net">http://www.pgdp.net</a>)<br /> - from page images generously made available by<br /> - Internet Archive/American Libraries<br /> - (<a href="http://archive.org/details/americana">http://archive.org/details/americana</a>)</h4> <table border="0" style="background-color: #ccccff;margin: 0 auto;" cellpadding="10"> <tr> <td valign="top"> @@ -13184,360 +13166,6 @@ disposed of his hunting apparatus,. she rubs his".</p> </div> <p> </p> -<hr class="full" /> -<p>***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EARLY WESTERN TRAVELS 1748-1846, VOLUME XIV***</p> -<p>******* This file should be named 43751-h.txt or 43751-h.zip *******</p> -<p>This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:<br /> -<a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/4/3/7/5/43751">http://www.gutenberg.org/4/3/7/5/43751</a></p> -<p> -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed.</p> - -<p> -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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Thus, we do not necessarily -keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition.</p> - -<p>Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility: -<a href="http://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a></p> - -<p>This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, -including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to -subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks.</p> - +<div>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 43751 ***</div> </body> </html> diff --git a/43751.txt b/43751.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 5681053..0000000 --- a/43751.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11906 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg eBook, Early Western Travels 1748-1846, Volume XIV, -by Edwin James, Edited by Reuben Gold Thwaites - - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - - - - - -Title: Early Western Travels 1748-1846, Volume XIV - Part I of James's Account of S. H. Long's Expedition, 1819-1820 - - -Author: Edwin James - -Editor: Reuben Gold Thwaites - -Release Date: September 16, 2013 [eBook #43751] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII) - - -***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EARLY WESTERN TRAVELS 1748-1846, -VOLUME XIV*** - - -E-text prepared by E-text prepared by Richard W, Greg Bergquist, and the -Online Distributed Proofreading Team (http://www.pgdp.net) from page -images generously made available by Internet Archive/American Libraries -(http://archive.org/details/americana) - - - -Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this - file which includes the original illustrations. - See 43751-h.htm or 43751-h.zip: - (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/43751/43751-h/43751-h.htm) - or - (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/43751/43751-h.zip) - - - Images of the original pages are available through - Internet Archive/American Libraries. See - http://archive.org/details/earlywesterntrav14thwa - - -Transcriber's note: - - This ebook reproduces the 1905 Arthur H. Clark Company - Edition, which is itself based on an 1823 London edition - of Part I of James's Account of S. H. Long's Expedition. - The 1905 edition incorporated portions from several - differing published editions of the account, plus a map - which does not appear to have been directly related to - James's account. The original pagination of the 1823 - London edition was included in the 1905 edition, and is - shown in this ebook by numbers enclosed in brackets, - e.g. {135}. - - Text enclosed by underscores is in italics (_italics_). - - Small capitals have been converted to uppercase. - - A carat character is used to denote superscription. The - character(s) enclosed in curly brackets following the - carat is/are superscripted (examples: Pub^{d}, C^{o.}). - - Further details of this transcription are located at the - end of this e-book. - - - - - -EARLY WESTERN TRAVELS - -1748-1846 - -VOLUME XIV - - - -EARLY WESTERN TRAVELS -1748-1846 - -A Series of Annotated Reprints of some of the best -and rarest contemporary volumes of travel, -descriptive of the Aborigines and Social and -Economic Conditions in the Middle -and Far West, during the Period -of Early American Settlement - -Edited with Notes, Introductions, Index, etc., by - -Reuben Gold Thwaites, LL.D. - -Editor of "The Jesuit Relations and Allied Documents," -"Original Journals of the Lewis and Clark Expedition," -"Hennepin's New Discovery," etc. - -Volume XIV - -Part I of James's Account of S. H. Long's Expedition, -1819-1820 - - - - - - - -Cleveland, Ohio -The Arthur H. Clark Company -1905 - -Copyright 1905, by -The Arthur H. Clark Company - -All Rights Reserved - -The Lakeside Press -R. R. Donnelley & Sons Company -Chicago - - - - -CONTENTS OF VOLUME XIV - - - PREFACE TO VOLUMES XIV-XVII. _The Editor_ 9 - - ACCOUNT OF AN EXPEDITION FROM PITTSBURGH TO THE - ROCKY MOUNTAINS, PERFORMED IN THE YEARS 1819, 1820. - By order of the Hon. J. C. Calhoun, Secretary of - War, under the command of Maj. S. H. Long, of the - U. S. Top. Engineers. Compiled from the Notes of - Major Long, Mr. T. Say, and other Gentlemen of the - Party. [Part I, being chapters i-x of Volume I of - the London edition, 1823.] _Edwin James_, Botanist - and Geologist to the Expedition - - Dedication 33 - - Preliminary Notice [from Philadelphia edition, - 1823] 35 - - Text: - CHAPTER I--Departure from Pittsburgh. - North-western slope of Alleghany Mountains. - Rapids of the Ohio 39 - - CHAPTER II--The Ohio below the Rapids at - Louisville. Ascent of the Mississippi from - the mouth of the Ohio to St. Louis 77 - - CHAPTER III--Tumuli and Indian graves about - St. Louis, and on the Merameg. Mouth of the - Missouri. Charboniere. Journey by land from - St. Charles to Loutre Island 108 - - CHAPTER IV--Settlement of Cote Sans Dessein. - Mouths of the Osage. Manito Rocks. Village - of Franklin 136 - - CHAPTER V--Death of Dr. Baldwin. Charaton - River, and Settlement. Pedestrian Journey - from Franklin to Fort Osage 153 - - CHAPTER VI--Mouth of the Konzas. Arrival at - Wolf River. Journey by land from Fort Osage - to the Village of the Konzas 171 - - CHAPTER VII--Further Account of the Konza - Nation. Robbery of Mr. Say's Detachment by a - War-party of Pawnees. Arrival at the Platte 199 - - CHAPTER VIII--Winter Cantonment near Council - Bluff. Councils with the Otoes, Missouries, - Ioways, Pawnees, &c. 221 - - CHAPTER IX--Animals. Sioux and Omawhaw - Indians. Winter Residence at Engineer - Cantonment 250 - - CHAPTER X--Account of the Omawhaws. Their - Manners, and Customs, and Religious Rites. - Historical Notices of Black Bird, Late - Principal Chief 288 - - - - -ILLUSTRATIONS TO VOLUME XIV - - "Map of the Country drained by the Mississippi" 30 - - Facsimile of title-page to Volume I of James's - _Account_ 31 - - "Indian Record of a Battle between the Pawnees - and the Konzas--a Fac-Simile of a Delineation - upon a Bison Robe" 202 - - "War Dance in the interior of a Konza Lodge" 208 - - "Oto Council" 238 - - "Pawnee Council" 246 - - - - -PREFACE TO VOLUMES XIV-XVII - - -The present volume and the three which succeed it are devoted to a -reprint of Edwin James's _Account of an Expedition from Pittsburgh -to the Rocky Mountains, performed in the Years 1819, 1820, . . . -under the Command of Maj. S. H. Long_. This exploration was the -outcome, and almost the only valuable result, of the ill-starred -project popularly known at the time as the Yellowstone expedition, -which had been designed to establish military posts on the upper -Missouri for the several purposes of protecting the growing -fur-trade, controlling the Indian tribes, and lessening the -influence which British trading companies were believed to exert -upon them.[1] The movement gave rise to great expectations, for -interest in our Western territories was already keen; it was -confidently hoped that an era of rapid development was about to -open in the trans-Mississippi region, under government initiative -and protection.[2] - -As originally planned, the scientific observations of the -expedition were to be conducted by a company of specialists under -the command of Major Long, to whom detailed instructions were -issued by Secretary of War Calhoun.[3] The military branch, under -Colonel Henry Atkinson,[4] was set in motion in the autumn of -1818, and a considerable body of troops passed the following -winter near the present site of Leavenworth, Kansas. In the spring -of 1819, however, defects in the plans began to hamper the -execution of the enterprise. Those were the early days of steam -navigation, and the waters of the Missouri had not yet been -stirred by paddle-wheels. Prudence counselled that the success of -the movement should not be staked on the behavior of steamboats in -untried waters. Nevertheless, the authorities decided against the -old-fashioned keel-boats recommended by Atkinson;[5] in arranging -for transportation, a further blunder was made in engaging a -contractor without competition or adequate securities. The service -proved entirely inefficient, and it was not until late in -September of 1819 that the troops were concentrated at Council -Bluffs, where, perforce, a halt was made for the winter. - -The scientific members of the expedition had meanwhile assembled -at Pittsburg, and on May 5, 1819, they began the descent of the -Ohio in the steamer "Western Engineer."[6] Stephen Harriman Long, -the chief of this party, was born at Hopkinton, New Hampshire, in -1764. After being graduated at Dartmouth (1809), and teaching for -a few years, he entered the army (1814) as lieutenant in the corps -of engineers. Until 1816 he was assistant professor of mathematics -at West Point, being then transferred to the topographical -engineers, with the brevet rank of major. Previous to the -exploration which forms the subject of our text, he travelled -extensively in the South-west, between the Arkansas and Red -rivers, and his journals, although never published, ranked among -the most useful sources of information for that region. Major -Long's associates in the present undertaking were Major John -Biddle, journalist of the party; Dr. William Baldwin, physician -and botanist; Dr. Thomas Say, zoologist; Augustus Edward Jessup, -geologist; T. R. Peale, assistant naturalist; Samuel Seymour, -painter; and Lieutenant James D. Graham and Cadet William H. -Swift, assistant topographers.[7] - -The "Western Engineer" arrived at St. Louis on the ninth of June, -and proceeded again on the twenty-first, after the party had -completed certain arrangements for their journey and examined the -Indian mounds in the vicinity. The voyage up the Missouri was -begun on the twenty-second, being marked by no more important -incident than an occasional halt to repair the machinery or clean -the boiler. Notwithstanding it drew but nineteen inches of water, -the boat grounded twice on sand-bars within four miles of the -Mississippi; but on the whole, it worked fairly well and gave -comparatively little annoyance. At St. Charles, on June 27, the -party was joined by Benjamin O'Fallon, agent for Indian affairs, -and John Dougherty, his interpreter. Here Messrs. Say, Jessup, -Peale, and Seymour left the boat and made a land excursion, -rejoining the party at Loutre Island. At Franklin, then the -uppermost town of any importance on the Missouri, a halt of -several days was made; here Dr. Baldwin, who had been ill since -the departure from Pittsburg, was left behind, his death occurring -on the thirty-first of August. From Franklin a party under Dr. Say -proceeded by land to Fort Osage, where they arrived on July 24, a -week in advance of the boat. On the sixth of August Dr. Say left -Fort Osage in command of a party bound for the principal village -of the Kansa Indians, then situated near the site of the present -village of Manhattan, Kansas. Arriving there on the twentieth, -they were hospitably entertained for four days; but after their -departure were set upon and robbed by a war party of Pawnee -braves, and consequently forced to abandon further progress by -land and return to the boat. - -Meantime the steamer had left Fort Osage on August 10, and eight -days later arrived at Cow Island, near Leavenworth, where a -portion of the troops of the Yellowstone expedition had wintered. -Here another week was spent in a council with the Kansa Indians. -On the twenty-ninth of August, Say and his companions arrived at -Cow Island, four days after the departure of the boat; both Say -and Jessup were ill, and the party had decided to return to the -river at that point instead of attempting the longer journey to -Council Bluffs, the appointed rendezvous. The others succeeded in -overtaking the steamer, the invalids remaining for a time at Cow -Island. - -Near the quarters of the troops at Council Bluffs (Camp Missouri), -Long's party also halted, on September 17, and prepared a winter -camp, named "Engineer Cantonment." Here Long left his companions, -and, accompanied by Jessup, returned to the East for the winter. -His colleagues at the cantonment pursued such studies as were -possible in the winter season, collecting much valuable -information relative to the neighboring tribes of Pawnee, Oto, -Iowa, Missouri, and Omaha Indians, and making short excursions -which gave them some knowledge of the geology and natural history -of the vicinity. - -Long returned to the West in the spring of 1820. Leaving St. Louis -on April 24, he crossed the intervening wilderness to Council -Bluffs by land, arriving at Engineer Cantonment on May 28. With -him came Captain J. R. Bell, to replace Major Biddle, also the -author of the account herewith reprinted; the latter assumed the -duties which had originally been assigned to Baldwin and Jessup. -Edwin James was born at Weybridge, Vermont, in 1797, and after -graduation at Middlebury College (1816) pursued the study of -medicine under a brother, Daniel James, who was a practising -physician of Albany, New York. At the same time he prosecuted -studies in botany and geology under Dr. John Torrey and Professor -Amos Eaton, joining the expedition in 1820 fresh from the tutelage -of these men. - -Long was also the bearer of fresh instructions. Congress, annoyed -at the first season's operations, the results of which had been -out of all proportion to the heavy expenditures, had refused -further appropriations, and the progress of the Yellowstone -expedition was necessarily arrested. Long's party, however, with -the exception of Lieutenant Graham, who with the steamboat was -assigned to special duty on the Missouri and Mississippi, was to -ascend the Platte to its source, and return to the Mississippi by -way of the Arkansas and the Red. - -The company as now organized, in addition to the scientific -gentlemen already named, included Dougherty and four other men to -serve as interpreters, baggage handlers, and the like, and a -detachment of seven soldiers from the troops at Camp Missouri--a -total of twenty. Leaving the Missouri on June 6, the expedition -visited the Pawnee villages on Loup River, where two Frenchmen -were engaged as guides and interpreters. An effort was made to -introduce the process of vaccination among the Pawnee, who, in -common with other tribes, had suffered heavily from the ravages of -smallpox; but the vaccine having been thoroughly drenched by the -wreck of one of the keel-boats of the Yellowstone expedition, the -attempt was unsuccessful. After two days at the villages, progress -was resumed on the thirteenth, and from this time until the -mountains were reached, little was encountered to excite interest, -save herds of buffalo and the mirage. From near Grand Island the -company followed the north bank of the Platte, until they reached -the forks, where they crossed to the south bank of the South Fork. - -On the thirtieth the Rockies were first sighted--their route along -the Platte having borne directly towards the mountain which has -since received Long's name, and which was, at first, mistaken for -Pike's Peak. The fourth of July, which they had hoped to celebrate -in the mountains, found them still at some distance from them; on -the fifth they encamped upon the site of the present city of -Denver, and the following day directly in front of the chasm -through which issues the South Platte. Here two days were passed -while James and Peale, with two companions, sought to cross the -first range and gain the valley of the Platte beyond; but after -surmounting several ridges, each of which appeared to be the -summit, only to find higher land beyond, the undertaking was -abandoned. They did reach, however, an elevated point from which -they could distinguish the two forks of the South Platte. - -A few days later, members of the expedition performed a more -memorable exploit. On the twelfth of July, the camp then being -a few miles south of the site of Colorado Springs, James set -out with two men, and two days later succeeded in reaching the -summit of Pike's Peak, being, so far as history records, the -first to accomplish this feat. In honor of the achievement, -Major Long christened the mountain James's Peak; but by force -of local usage, the present name supplanted this appropriate -designation. Lieutenant Swift had meanwhile quite accurately -calculated the height of the peak above the basal plains, although -an erroneous estimate of the elevation of the latter produced an -error of nearly three thousand feet in the determination for the -elevation of the summit above sea level. Here, as elsewhere, the -observations for longitude and latitude involved a considerable -error. - -On the sixteenth the party again broke camp, and moved southwest -to the Arkansas, which they reached twelve or fifteen miles above -the present city of Pueblo. The following day Captain Bell, Dr. -James, and two of the men ascended the river to the site of Canyon -City, at the entrance of Royal Gorge, where they turned back, -again baffled by what seemed to them impassable barriers. - -The expedition began the descent of the Arkansas on the -nineteenth. After two days' march a camp was made a few miles -above the future site of La Junta, Colorado; here a division -into two parties was effected, for the purpose of carrying out -the instructions of the War Department to explore the courses -of both the Arkansas and the Red. The division assigned to the -exploration of Red River, consisting of James, Peale, and seven -men, was commanded by Major Long himself, for this was one of the -principal objects of the expedition; the other division, charged -with the less important task of descending the Arkansas, the -entire course of which had already been examined by Pike and his -assistants, was led by Captain Bell. - -Leaving the Arkansas on the twenty-fourth, Long's party crossed -Purgatory Creek and the upper waters of Cimarron River, and after -six days reached a small tributary of Canadian River, which, after -five days' still further travel, brought them to the latter near -the present Texas-New Mexico boundary line. As the region in which -they had encountered the waters of the Canadian was that wherein -the sources of the Red had, previous to that time, been -universally supposed to lie, they naturally at first believed that -they were upon the latter stream. Their suspicions were soon -aroused by the deviation of the river's course from that which -they expected the Red to pursue; but it was not until they arrived -at the confluence of this waterway with the Arkansas that they -became certain of their error. During their descent of the -Canadian they encountered parties of Kaskaia and Comanche Indians, -whose conduct was not uniformly friendly. Few incidents of -interest, however, broke the painful monotony of a journey -accompanied by almost constant suffering from exposure to violent -storms and intense heat, lack of food and water, and the attacks -of wood ticks. On the thirteenth of September the explorers -arrived at Fort Smith, the appointed rendezvous, where they found -Bell's party awaiting them. - -The experience of the Arkansas division had, in most particulars, -been quite similar to that of Long's, but on the whole less -vexatious. The chief event, however, involved an irreparable loss -to the expedition. This was the desertion, on the night of the -thirtieth of August, of three soldiers, who wantonly took with -them all the manuscripts completed by Dr. Say and Lieutenant Swift -since leaving the Missouri. The stolen books contained notes on -the manners, habits, history, and languages of the Indians, and on -the animals which had been examined, a journal of the expedition, -and a mass of topographical data. During part of the journey, -Bell's party was even more astray than Long's. Soon after passing -the Great Bend of the Arkansas, they mistook the Nennescah River -for the Negracka, or Salt Fork of the Arkansas; similar errors -added to their bewilderment, and for some time they were unaware -whether they were near Fort Smith or still far distant--until, on -the first of September, they met friendly Osage Indians near -Verdigris River. They reached Fort Smith on the ninth. - -From Fort Smith the reunited party followed the Arkansas to the -Cherokee towns on Illinois Creek, in Pope County, Arkansas, whence -they proceeded overland directly to Cape Girardeau, Missouri. -James and Swift, parting from their companions at the Cherokee -towns, visited the Arkansas Hot Springs, now a famous health -resort, and returning to the Arkansas at Little Rock, also crossed -the country to Cape Girardeau, where all members of the expedition -were assembled on October 12. Here nearly all of the party were -attacked by intermittent fever. - -Two or three weeks later, the expedition being now disbanded, -Major Long and Captain Bell set out for Washington, leaving their -colleagues to act according to their own pleasure. About the first -of November, Messrs. Say, Seymour, and Peale departed by -steamboat, intending to return home by way of New Orleans. They -were accompanied by Lieutenant Graham, who, on completion of the -special duties assigned to him at Engineer Cantonment, had met the -exploring party at Cape Girardeau with the "Western Engineer." -Lieutenant Swift and Dr. James essayed to ascend the Ohio to -Louisville with the vessel; but at Golconda, Illinois, James -experienced a recurrence of fever, which for some time prevented -his proceeding farther, while Swift, leaving the boat at -Smithland, Kentucky, continued his journey on horseback. - -James's _Account_ is the only narrative of the expedition, and his -connection with the party gives his work the authority of an -official report. Moreover, he not only had access to the notes of -his associates, but received much personal assistance, especially -from Long and Say. The original edition was published at -Philadelphia in 1823, by Carey and Lea; it consisted of two -volumes of 503 and 442 pages respectively, containing James's -narrative, with appendices giving a catalogue of animals observed -at Engineer Cantonment, the Indian sign language, Indian speeches -at the councils held by Major O'Fallon, astronomical and -meteorological records, and vocabularies of Indian languages, -especially those of the Oto, Kansa, Omaha, Sioux, Minitaree, and -Pawnee tribes. Extracts from Major Long's report to the secretary -of war, dated January 20, 1821, and from the report made by his -assistants to Long on the mineralogy and geology of the region -explored, were incorporated in the second volume. A third volume -contained the maps and plates, and the edition was provided with a -brief index and "Preliminary Notice." - -The same year another edition was published in London, by Longman, -Hurst, Rees, Orme, & Brown. This edition, the one selected by us -for reprinting, was in three volumes, and contained the text -essentially as printed in the Philadelphia edition.[8] In the -arrangement of notes, however, a different plan was adopted; in -the Philadelphia issue, all annotation was given at the foot of -the appropriate pages, while in the London edition the notes for -each volume were grouped in the back of the book. In the present -reprint the former plan is followed. The Preliminary Notice found -in the Philadelphia edition was omitted from the London version, -but is supplied in the present reprint. The appendices giving -astronomical and meteorological data and Indian vocabularies, -which were omitted from the London edition, are also included in -our reprint. Finally, instead of the atlas which accompanied the -Philadelphia edition, selected illustrations, including a map of -the region explored, were incorporated with the text in the -various volumes of the London print. - -In certain ways the results of the expedition were disappointing, -even to those persons whose expectations were far less extravagant -than the Missourian who had declared that "ten years shall not -pass away before we shall have the rich productions of [China] -transported from Canton to the Columbia, up that river to -the mountains, over the mountains and down the Missouri and -Mississippi, all the way (mountains and all), by the potent power -of steam." To this class, the report which the expedition made on -the trans-Mississippi country was far from encouraging. Said Major -Long in his final estimate: "In regard to this extensive section -of country, I do not hesitate in giving the opinion, that it is -almost wholly unfit for cultivation, and of course uninhabitable -by a people depending upon agriculture for their subsistence. -Although tracts of fertile land considerably extensive are -occasionally to be met with, yet the scarcity of wood and water, -almost uniformly prevalent, will prove an insuperable obstacle -in the way of settling the country. This objection rests not -only against the section immediately under consideration, but -applies with equal propriety to a much larger portion of the -country. . . . This region, however, viewed as a frontier, may -prove of infinite importance to the United States, inasmuch as -it is calculated to serve as a barrier to prevent too great an -extension of our population westward, and secure us against the -machinations or incursions of an enemy that might otherwise be -disposed to annoy us in that part of our frontier." In similar -vein is the comment of Dr. James: "We have little apprehension of -giving too unfavourable an account of this portion of the country. -Though the soil is in some places fertile, the want of timber, -of navigable streams, and of water for the necessities of life, -render it an unfit residence for any but a nomad population. The -traveller who shall at any time have traversed its desolate sands, -will, we think, join us in the wish that this region may for ever -remain the unmolested haunt of the native hunter, the bison, and -the jackall." Such a verdict was not welcomed by an expansive -people, eager to enter into and possess a land which imagination -pictured as suitable for the seat of an empire. - -The teeming animal life of the great plains might have suggested -to Long and his associates its adaptability to the needs of man; -but for the occupation of the land without political peril, at -least two agencies were required, which were, in their day, hardly -more than dreams. We cannot blame the explorers for failing to -anticipate the marvels of the railroad and the irrigating ditch; -indeed, the repulse of the agricultural vanguard which attempted -the invasion of the plains west of the hundredth meridian only -half a generation ago, vindicates the prediction that the country -could not be possessed by methods then known. It may be doubted -whether their conservatism was not wiser than the confidence of -the more ardent expansionists; yet it is doubtless true that their -report, by depreciating the estimate of the value of the region, -put weapons into the hands of those Eastern men who cherished a -traditional jealousy of Westward expansion, and caused the -government rather to follow than to lead the movement. - -Another apparent ground for criticism is the failure of the -expedition to accomplish either of the great objects mentioned in -the instructions--the discovery of the sources of the Platte and -of the Red. The readiness with which the explorers relinquished -their efforts to penetrate the mountains at the canyons of the -Platte and Arkansas, although the season was midsummer, seems to -indicate inefficiency as well as indifference to instructions. -Likewise, when the Canadian was reached and mistaken for the Red, -no effort was made to ascend the stream to its source; the -explorers were content to descend the river, leaving the exact -location of its head undetermined. Some excuse for this conduct is -afforded by the inadequacy of the equipment provided by Congress -for this enterprise. The federal government supplied six horses; -the remainder of the thirty-four were furnished by the members of -the party. "Our saddles and other articles of equipage," wrote -James, "were of the rudest kind, being, with a few exceptions, -such as we had purchased from the Indians, or constructed -ourselves;" and, he adds, that the "very inadequate outfit . . . was -the utmost our united means enabled us to furnish." Consequently, -the party was compelled to subsist largely upon the country -explored, and its movements were in no small degree dictated by -the fear of want. That many of the hardships experienced were due -to the slender outfit, is proved by the comparative comfort with -which later parties followed in their footsteps. Twenty-five years -afterwards, Colonel Abert, starting from Bent's Fort, on the upper -Arkansas, not many miles from the point where Long's forces had -divided, crossed the upland to the Canadian and descended to its -mouth, following essentially Long's route, and making the whole -journey in wagons, for which, save in a few places, a smooth -course was found. This party succeeded in finding sufficient water -at almost every camp, while the entire trip resembled more an -outing for pleasure than it did the harrowing journey of Major -Long. The route up the Canadian afterward became a much-used -pathway to New Mexico.[9] - -When all allowances have been made, much carelessness is evident -in the explorations of the Long expedition. The bewilderment -of Bell's party was inexcusable in men of science possessing -instruments for determining latitude and longitude; their -geographical errors to some extent nullified their observations -of natural features. Cimarron River, the most important tributary -of the Arkansas next to the Canadian, they missed entirely, and -the relative size and location of the tributaries of the Arkansas -remained uncertain for years after. Upon beginning the descent -of the Arkansas they travelled two hundred miles without, so -far as James's _Account_ shows, making a note on geography or -topography; but possibly some allowance for this omission should -be made because of the theft of manuscripts by the deserters. Of -the itinerary of the expedition from the Platte to the Canadian, -it has been said, "It would be scarcely possible to find in -any narrative of Western history so careless an itinerary, -and in a scientific report like that of Dr. James it is quite -inexcusable."[10] To the account of the country traversed by -the expedition, James added information relative to portions of -Arkansas and Louisiana, much of which was already accessible to -the public through the reports and writings of Hunter and Dunbar, -Sibley, Darby, Stoddard, Schoolcraft, and others. However, this -portion of James's narrative also draws data from Major Long's -manuscript journals, not elsewhere available, and gives the -only account of the attempted exploration of Red River under -Captain Richard Sparks, based on the memoranda of members of the -expedition. - -After all criticisms have been urged to the utmost, the work of -the expedition was, and is, of considerable value. The exploration -of the Canadian River was an important contribution to American -geography. It was thenceforth evident that the sources of the -Red must be looked for farther south than had previously been -supposed, although a generation was to elapse before their -discovery. Otherwise, the exploration added greatly to the -knowledge of a portion of the country but imperfectly known -through hunters and traders. Especially is this true as regards -details relative to natural history and ethnology; for the work -was done in the spirit of modern scientific investigation, and in -this respect anticipated later expeditions, for which American -public sentiment in 1820 was hardly ripe. The collections included -more than sixty skins of new or rare animals, several thousand -insects, of which many hundreds were new, nearly five hundred -undescribed plants, mineral specimens, many new species of shells, -numerous fossils, a hundred and twenty-two animal sketches, and a -hundred and fifty landscape views. While not primarily designed as -a scientific report on these collections, James's _Account_ gives -in the form of notes[11] much of the more important information -derived from them. Perhaps no other portions of the work, -however equal in value those devoted to the aborigines; as an -authoritative source of knowledge of the sociology of the Kansa -and Omaha tribes, the _Account_ has no rival. - -Soon after his return from the Rockies, Major Long was sent upon -another expedition, this time to the sources of the St. Peter's -(now Minnesota) River. This enterprise was contemplated by the -original instructions issued to Long at the time of the -Yellowstone project; but the subsequent abandonment of the latter -compelled alterations in the programme of the scientific division. -As in the case of the first journey, the report of the St. Peter's -exploration is the work of another person--William H. Keating, -author of _Long's Expedition to the Source of St. Peter's River, -Lake of the Woods, etc._ (Philadelphia, 2 vols., 1824). - -For these several explorations, Long was breveted lieutenant-colonel. -In 1827 he assumed charge of the survey of the Baltimore & Ohio -Railroad, and for many years thereafter was much engaged in -railroad engineering. His _Railroad Manual_ (1829) was the first -original treatise on railroad building published in this country. -Upon the organization of the Topographical Engineers as a separate -corps (1838), he became a major; later (1861) he was made chief of -the corps, with the rank of colonel. He was retired from active -service in 1863, still being entrusted with important duties, which -were interrupted by his death, occurring at Alton, Illinois, the -following year. - -After the publication of his account of Long's expedition, Dr. -James received an appointment as army surgeon, and was on the -frontier for six years, which he utilized in studying Indian -dialects; during this period he translated the New Testament into -the Chippewa tongue (1833), and published _The Narrative of John -Tanner_ (New York, 1830), the story of a child who had been -stolen by the Indians, and became a well-known interpreter. -Resigning his army post (1830), James became associate editor of -the _Temperance Herald and Journal_, at Albany; later (1834) he -removed to Iowa, and settled (1836) as an agriculturist near -Burlington, where he died in 1861. - -In the preparation for the press of this reprint of James's -_Account_, the Editor has had throughout the assistance of Homer -C. Hockett, B.A., instructor in history in the University of -qWisconsin. - R. G. T. - MADISON. WIS., March, 1905. - - -FOOTNOTES: - - [1] See statement of the objects of the expedition by Secretary - Calhoun, in _American State Papers_, "Military Affairs," ii, p. - 33. - - - [2] See quotations from contemporary sources in Chittenden, - _American Fur Trade_, ii, p. 562 _et seq._ Chapter ii of that - volume gives a good account of the Yellowstone expedition. - - - [3] See Preliminary Notice to the Philadelphia edition (1823), - which we supply in its proper place in the present reprint--it - having been omitted from the London edition which we follow. - - - [4] Henry Atkinson of North Carolina, became captain in the - Third Infantry in 1808. His subsequent record, as given in - Powell, _List of Officers of the U. S. Army_, is as follows: - "Col. I. G. 25 April, 1813. Col. 4th Inf., 15 April, 1814. - Trans. to 37th Inf., 22 April, 1814. Trans. to 6th Inf., 17 May, - 1815. Brig. Gen. 13 May, 1820. Col. A. G., 1 June, 1821 which he - declined, and on 16 Aug., 1821, was assigned as Col. 6th Inf. - Retained as Col., 21 Aug., with Bvt. rank of Brig. Gen., 13 May, - 1820. Died 14 June, 1842." - - - [5] Atkinson had contrived a device similar to the paddle-wheel - of a steamer, for propelling keel-boats, but operated by men. It - was afterwards used successfully. - - - [6] See the description of this boat given in note 145, _post_. - - - [7] For biographical sketches see footnote 1 of text. - - - [8] There are in the two editions differences in phraseology, - and each contains a few paragraphs omitted from the other. As a - rule these differences are of minor importance; where important, - the footnotes to the reprint give both readings. The London - edition contains a complete copy of Long's report in place of - mere extracts. - - - [9] The expedition was the most extensive which had been sent - out by the government, up to that time; and, as the _North - American Review_ remarked, was "in many respects much better - qualified and fitted out than Lewis and Clark." Nevertheless, - in commenting on the sentence in the Preliminary Notice, in - which James explains the scarcity of means for the expedition - as due to the state of the national finances, the same journal - exclaims: "Detestable parsimony! The only country but one in - the world, that has not been reduced to an avowed or virtual - bankruptcy; the country, which has grown and is growing in - wealth and prosperity beyond any other and beyond all other - nations, too poor to pay a few gentlemen and soldiers for - exploring its mighty rivers, and taking possession of the - empires, which Providence has called it to govern!" - - - [10] Chittenden, _American Fur Trade_, ii, p. 578. - - - [11] We have, for convenience, signed James's name to - all notes reprinted by us from the original issue; it should - be understood, however, that several members of the party - contributed these notes--some of them being indicated therein, - and others not. - - - - -PART I OF JAMES'S ACCOUNT OF S. H. LONG'S EXPEDITION, 1819-1820 - - -Preliminary Notice reprinted from Volume I of Philadelphia -edition, 1823. Text reprinted from Volume I of London edition, -1823. - - [Illustration: _Map of the Country_ drained by the - _MISSISSIPPI_.] - - - - - [Illustration: Facsimile of title-page to Volume I of James's - _Account_ - - ACCOUNT - - OF AN - - EXPEDITION - - FROM PITTSBURGH - - TO - - THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, - - PERFORMED - IN THE YEARS 1819, 1820. - - BY ORDER OF THE - HON. J. C. CALHOUN, SECRETARY OF WAR, - UNDER THE COMMAND OF - MAJ. S. H. LONG, OF THE U. S. TOP. ENGINEERS. - - COMPILED - FROM THE NOTES OF MAJOR LONG, MR. T. SAY, - AND OTHER GENTLEMEN OF THE PARTY, - BY EDWIN JAMES, - BOTANIST AND GEOLOGIST TO THE EXPEDITION. - - _IN THREE VOLUMES._ - VOL. I. - - LONDON: - PRINTED FOR - LONGMAN, HURST, REES, ORME, AND BROWN, - PATERNOSTER-ROW. - 1823. - ] - - - - - TO - - THE HONOURABLE - - JOHN C. CALHOUN, - - SECRETARY OF WAR; - - WHOSE LIBERAL VIEWS, ENLIGHTENED POLICY, AND - JUDICIOUS MEASURES, - WHILE THEY HAVE BEEN PROSECUTED WITH THE UTMOST - CIRCUMSPECTION AND ECONOMY, - HAVE CONTRIBUTED IN AN EMINENT DEGREE - TO THE - ADVANCEMENT OF THE NATIONAL CHARACTER OF THE - UNITED STATES, - BOTH IN SCIENCE AND POLITICS; - THE FOLLOWING PAGES - ARE MOST RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED BY - THE AUTHORS, - AS A FEEBLE TESTIMONIAL OF - THEIR HIGH CONSIDERATION OF HIS TALENTS AND - PATRIOTISM, AND A GRATEFUL ACKNOWLEDGEMENT - OF HIS INDULGENCE AND PATRONAGE. - - - - -PRELIMINARY NOTICE - - [From the Philadelphia edition, 1823] - - -In selecting from a large mass of notes and journals the materials -of the following volumes, our design has been to present a -compendious account of the labors of the Exploring Party, and of -such of their discoveries as were thought likely to gratify a -liberal curiosity. It was not deemed necessary to preserve -uniformity of style, at the expense of substituting the language -of a compiler for that of an original observer. Important -contributions of entire passages from Major Long and Mr. Say, will -be recognized in various parts of the work, though we have not -always been careful to indicate the place of their introduction. -Those gentlemen have indeed been constantly attentive to the work, -both to the preparation of the manuscript and its revision for the -press. - -In the following pages we hope to have contributed something -towards a more thorough acquaintance with the Aborigines of our -country. In other parts of our narrative where this interesting -topic could not be introduced, we have turned our attention -towards the phenomena of nature, to the varied and beautiful -productions of animal and vegetable life, and to the more -magnificent if less attractive features of the inorganic creation. - -{2} If in this attempt we have failed to produce any thing to -amuse or instruct, the deficiency is in ourselves. The few minute -descriptions of animals and plants that were thought admissible, -have been placed as marginal notes, and we hope they will not be -the less acceptable to the scientific reader, for being given in -the order in which they occurred to our notice. - -Descriptions of the greater number of the animals and plants -collected on the Expedition, remain to be given. These may be -expected to appear from time to time, either in periodical -journals or in some other form. - -Not aspiring to be considered historians of the regions we -traversed, we only aimed at giving a sketch true at the moment of -our visit, and which, as far as it embraces the permanent features -of nature, will we trust, be corroborated by those who shall -follow our steps. Much remains to be done not only on the ground -we have occupied, but in those vast regions in the interior of our -continent, to which the foot of civilized man has never -penetrated. We cannot but hope, that the enlightened spirit which -has already evinced itself in directing a part of the energies of -the nation, towards the development of the physical resources of -our country, will be allowed still farther to operate; that the -time will arrive, when we shall no longer be indebted to the men -of foreign countries, for a knowledge of any of the products of -our own soil, or for our opinions in science. - -We feel it a duty incumbent upon us, to acknowledge our -obligations to many distinguished individuals, both {3} military -and scientific, and particularly to several members of the -Philosophical Society at Philadelphia, for their prompt offers -of any aid in their power to contribute towards advancing the -objects of the expedition at its commencement. We are indebted -more especially to Professors James, Walsh, and Patterson, to -Dr. Dewees and Mr. Duponceau; each of whom furnished a number -of queries, and a list of objects, by which to direct our -observations. These we found eminently useful, and we regret to -state that, with many of our manuscripts they were inadvertently -mislaid, otherwise, they should have been published in this place, -for the information of future travellers. - -An interesting communication from Messrs. Gordon and Wells, of -Smithland, Kentucky, was received after the first volume had gone -to press, consequently too late for insertion. - -As a farther introduction to our narrative, we subjoin an extract -from the orders of the Honourable Secretary of War to Major Long, -exhibiting an outline of the plan and objects of the Expedition. - - "You will assume the command of the Expedition to explore the - country between the Mississippi and the Rocky Mountains." - - "You will first explore the Missouri and its principal - branches, and then, in succession, Red river, Arkansa and - Mississippi, above the mouth of the Missouri." - - "The object of the Expedition, is to acquire as thorough and - accurate knowledge as may be practicable, of a portion of our - country, which is daily becoming {4} more interesting, but - which is as yet imperfectly known. With this view, you will - permit nothing worthy of notice, to escape your attention. You - will ascertain the latitude and longitude of remarkable points - with all possible precision. You will if practicable, - ascertain some point in the 49th parallel of latitude, which - separates our possessions from those of Great Britain. A - knowledge of the extent of our limits will tend to prevent - collision between our traders and theirs." - - "You will enter in your journal, every thing interesting in - relation to soil, face of the country, water courses and - productions, whether animal, vegetable, or mineral." - - "You will conciliate the Indians by kindness and presents, and - will ascertain, as far as practicable, the number and - character of the various tribes, with the extent of country - claimed by each." - - "Great confidence is reposed in the acquirements and zeal of - the citizens who will accompany the Expedition for scientific - purposes, and a confident hope is entertained, that their - duties will be performed in such a manner, as to add both to - their own reputation and that of our country." - - "The Instructions of Mr. Jefferson to Capt. Lewis, which are - printed in his travels, will afford you many valuable - suggestions, of which as far as applicable, you will avail - yourself." - -It will be perceived that the travels and researches of the -Expedition, have been far less extensive than {5} those -contemplated in the foregoing orders:--the state of the national -finances, during the year 1821, having called for retrenchments in -all expenditures of a public nature,--the means necessary for the -farther prosecution of the objects of the Expedition, were -accordingly withheld. - - - - -EXPEDITION FROM PITTSBURGH TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS - - [PART I.] - - - - -CHAPTER I - - Departure from Pittsburgh--North-western slope of the - Alleghany Mountains--Rapids of the Ohio. - - -Early in April, 1819, the several persons constituting the -exploring party had assembled at Pittsburgh. It had been our -intention to commence the descent of the Ohio, before the middle -of that month; but some unavoidable delays in the completion of -the steam boat, and in the preparations necessary for a long -voyage, prevented our departure until the first of May. On the -31st of March, the following instructions were issued by the -commanding officer, giving an outline of the services to be -performed by the party, and assigning to each individual[001] the -appropriate duties:-- - - "Pursuant to orders from the Hon. Secretary of War, Major Long - assumes the command of the expedition about to engage in - exploring the Mississippi, Missouri, and their navigable - tributaries, on board the United States' steam-boat, Western - Engineer. - - "The commanding officer will direct the movements and - operations of the expedition, both in relation {2} to military - and scientific pursuits. A strict observance of all orders, - whether written or verbal, emanating from him, will be - required of all connected with the expedition. The prime - object of the expedition being a topographical description of - the country to be explored, the commanding officer will avail - himself of any assistance he may require of any persons on - board to aid in taking the necessary observations. In this - branch of duty, Lieutenant Graham and Cadet Swift will - officiate as his immediate assistants. - - "The journal of the expedition will be kept by Major Biddle, - whose duty it will be to record all transactions of the party - that concern the objects of the expedition, to describe the - manners and customs, &c. of the inhabitants of the country - through which we may pass; to trace in a compendious manner - the history of the towns, villages, and tribes of Indians we - may visit; to review the writings of other travellers, and - compare their statements with our own observations; and in - general to record whatever may be of interest to the community - in a civil point of view, not interfering with the records to - be kept by the naturalists attached to the expedition. - - "Dr. Baldwin will act as botanist for the expedition. A - description of all the products of vegetation, common or - peculiar to the countries we may traverse, will be required of - him, also the diseases prevailing among the inhabitants, - whether civilized or savages, and their probable causes, will - be subjects for his investigation; any variety in the anatomy - of the human frame, or any other phenomena observable in our - species, will be particularly noted by him. Dr. Baldwin will - also officiate as physician and surgeon for the expedition. - - "Mr. Say will examine and describe any objects in zoology, and - its several branches, that may come under our observation. A - classification of all land and water animals, insects, &c. and - a particular description {3} of the animal remains found in a - concrete state will be required of him. - - "Geology, so far as it relates to earths, minerals, and - fossils, distinguishing the primitive, transition, secondary, - and alluvial formations and deposits, will afford subjects of - investigation for Mr. Jessup. In this science, as also in - botany and zoology, facts will be required without regard to - the theories or hypotheses that have been advanced on numerous - occasions by men of science. - - "Mr. Peale will officiate as assistant naturalist. In the - several departments above enumerated, his services will be - required in collecting specimens suitable to be preserved, in - drafting and delineating them, in preserving the skins, &c. of - animals, and in sketching the stratifications of rocks, - earths, &c. as presented on the declivities of precipices. - - "Mr. Seymour, as painter for the expedition, will furnish - sketches of landscapes, whenever we meet with any distinguished - for their beauty and grandeur. He will also paint miniature - likenesses, or portraits, if required, of distinguished Indians, - and exhibit groups of savages engaged in celebrating their - festivals, or sitting in council, and in general illustrate any - subject, that may be deemed appropriate in his art. - - "Lieutenant Graham and Cadet Swift, in addition to the duties - they may perform in the capacity of assistant topographers, - will attend to drilling the boat's crew, in the exercise of - the musket, the field-piece, and the sabre. - - "Their duties will be assigned them, from time to time, by the - commanding officer. - - "All records kept on board the steam-boat, all subjects of - natural history, geology, and botany, all drawings, as also - journals of every kind relating to the expedition, will at all - times be subject to the inspection of the commanding officer, - and at the conclusion of each trip or voyage, will be placed - at his disposal, as agent for the United States' government. - - {4} "Orders will be given, from time to time, whenever the - commanding officer may deem them expedient. - - "S. H. LONG, _Major U. S. Engineers, - commanding Expedition_." - - -On the 3d of May we left the arsenal,[002] where the boat had been -built, and after exchanging a salute of twenty-two guns, began to -descend the Alleghany, towards Pittsburgh. Great numbers of -spectators lined the banks of the river, and their acclamations -were occasionally noticed by the discharge of ordnance on board -the boat. The important duties assigned the expedition rendered -its departure a subject of interest, and some peculiarities in the -structure of the boat attracted attention. - -We were furnished with an adequate supply of arms and ammunition, -and a collection of books and instruments. - -On Wednesday the 5th of May, having completed some alterations, -which it appeared necessary to make in our engine, and received on -board all our stores, we left Pittsburgh and proceeded on our -voyage. All the gentlemen of the party, except Dr. Baldwin, were -in good health, and entered upon this enterprise in good spirits -and with high expectations. Fourteen miles below Pittsburgh, we -passed a steam-boat lying aground; we received and returned their -salute, as is customary with the merchants' boats on the Ohio and -Mississippi. - -At evening we heard the cry of the whip-poor-will;[003] and among -other birds saw the pelecanus carbo, several turkey vultures, and -the tell-tale sand-piper. The spring was now rapidly advancing, -the dense forests of the Ohio bottoms were unfolding their -luxuriant foliage, and the scattered plantations assuming the -cheering aspect of summer. - -{5} A few weeks' residence at and near Pittsburgh, and several -journies across the Alleghany mountains, in different parts, have -afforded us the opportunity of collecting a few observations -relative to that important section of country, which contains the -sources of the Ohio. - -In the Alleghany river we found several of those little animals, -which have been described as a species of Proteus, but which to us -appear more properly to belong to the genus Triton.[004] - -The north-western slope of that range of mountains, known -collectively as the Alleghanies, has a moderate inclination -towards the bed of the Ohio, and the St. Lawrence, which run -nearly in opposite directions along its base. This mountain -chain extends uninterrupted along the Atlantic coast, from the -Gulf of St. Lawrence south-west to the great alluvial formation -of the Mississippi. It crosses the St. Lawrence at the rapids -above Quebec, and has been supposed to be connected as a spur -to a group of primitive mountains occupying a large portion of -the interior of the continent, north of the great Lakes.[005] An -inspection of any of the late maps of North America, will show -that this range holds the second place among the mountain chains -of this continent. All our rivers of the first magnitude have -their sources, either in the Rocky Mountains, or in elevated -spurs, projecting from the sides of that range. The largest of -the rivers, flowing from the Alleghanies, is the Ohio; and even -this, running almost parallel to the range, and receiving as -many, and, with a few exceptions, as large rivers from the north -as from the south, seems in a great measure independent of it. -From the most elevated part of the continent, at the sources -of the Platte, and Yellow Stone, branches of the Missouri, the -descent towards the Atlantic is at least {6} twice obstructed by -ranges of hills nearly parallel, in direction, to each other. -Erroneous impressions have heretofore prevailed respecting the -character of that part of the country called the Mississippi -Valley. If we consider attentively that extensive portion of our -continent, drained by the Mississippi, we shall find it naturally -divided into two nearly equal sections. This division is made by -a range of hilly country, to be hereafter particularly described, -running from near the north-western angle of the Gulf of Mexico -north-eastwardly to Lake Superior. Eastward, from this range, -to the summit of the Alleghanies, extends a country of forests, -having usually a deep and fertile soil, reposing upon extensive -strata of argillaceous sandstone, compact limestone, and other -secondary rocks. Though these rocks extend almost to the highest -summits of the Alleghanies, and retain even there the horizontal -position which they have in the plains, the region they underlay -is not to be considered as forming a district of table lands. -On the contrary, its surface is varied by deep vallies and -lofty hills; and there are extensive tracts elevated probably -not less than eight hundred feet above the Atlantic ocean. The -north-western slope of the Alleghany mountains, though more -gradual than the south-eastern, is, like it, divided by deep -vallies, parallel to the general direction of the range. In these -vallies, many of the rivers, which derive their sources from -the interior and most elevated hills of the group, pursue their -courses for many miles, descending either towards the south-west, -or the north-east, until they at length acquire sufficient force -to break through the opposing ridges, whence they afterward pursue -a more direct course. As instances, we may mention the Monongahela -river, which runs nearly parallel, but in an opposite direction, -to the Ohio; the great Kenhawa, whose course above the falls forms -an acute angle with the part below; also the Cumberland, and -Tennessee, which run a {7} long distance parallel to each other, -and to the Ohio. This fact seems to justify the inference, that -some other agent than the rivers has been active in the production -of the vallies between the subordinate ridges of the Alleghany. -There appears some reason to believe that the rocky hills, along -the immediate course of the Ohio and the larger western rivers, -have received, at least, their present form from the operation of -streams of water. They do not, like the accessory ridges of the -Alleghany, form high and continuous chains, apparently influencing -the direction of rivers, but present groups of conic eminences -separated by water-worn vallies, and having a sort of symmetric -arrangement. The structure of these hills does not so much differ -from that of the Alleghany mountains, as their form and position. -The long chains of hills, which form the ascent to the Alleghany, -on the western side, are based either on metalliferous limestone, -or some of the inclined rocks belonging to the transition -formation of Werner, and have their summits capped with the -more recent secondary aggregates in strata without inclination, -and greatly resembling those found in the plains west of the -Ohio. It is not easy to conceive how these horizontal strata, -unless originally continuous, should appear so similar at equal -elevations in different hills, and hills separated by vallies of -several miles in width. If that convulsion which produced the -inclination of the strata, of the metalliferous limestone, the -clay-slate, and the gray wacke, happened before the deposition -of the compact limestone, and the argillaceous sandstones, why -are not these later aggregates found principally in the vallies, -where their integrant particles would be supposed most readily to -have accumulated? On the other hand, if the secondary rocks had -been deposited previous to that supposed change, how have their -stratifications retained the original horizontal {8} position, -while that of the transition strata has been changed? - -Most of the rivers which descend from the western side of the -Alleghany mountains are of inconsiderable magnitude, and by -no means remarkable, on account of the straightness of their -course, or the rapidity of their currents. The maps accompanying -this work, will, in the most satisfactory manner, illustrate the -great contrast in this respect, between the district now under -consideration and the eastern slope of the Rocky Mountains. -The Tennessee, the Cumberland, the Kentucky, the Kenhawa and -Alleghany rivers, though traversed in their courses by rocky -dikes, sometimes compressing their beds into a narrow compass, -occasioning rapids, and in other instances causing perpendicular -falls, yet compared to the Platte, and the western tributaries -of the Missouri generally, can be considered neither shoal nor -rapid. Their immediate banks are permanent, often rocky, and -the sloping beach covered with trees or shrubs, and the water, -except in time of high floods, nearly transparent. The waters of -the Ohio, and its tributaries, and perhaps of most other rivers, -when they do not suspend such quantities of earthy matter as to -destroy their transparency, reflect, from beneath their surface, -a greenish colour. This colour has been thought to be, in some -instances, occasioned by minute confervas, or other floating -plants, or to result from the decomposition of decaying vegetable -matter. That it depends on neither of these causes, however, is -sufficiently manifest, for when seen by transmitted light, the -green waters are usually transparent and colourless. Some rivers -of Switzerland, and some of South America, which descend from -lofty primitive mountains, consisting of rocks of the most flinty -and indestructible composition, covered with perpetual snows, -and almost destitute of organic beings, or exuviae, either animal -or {9} vegetable, and whose waters have a temperature, even in -summer, raised but a few degrees above the freezing point, which -circumstance, together with the rapidity of their currents, -render them unfit for the abode of vegetable life, and is -incompatible with the existence of putrefaction, notwithstanding -the transparency of their waters, and the reddish, or yellowish -colour of the rocks which pave their beds, have a tinge of green, -like the Ohio and Cumberland, at times of low water. It is well -known that the water of the ocean, though more transparent than -any other, is usually green near the shores; and on soundings, -while at main ocean, its colour is blue. Perhaps the power which -transparent waters have of decomposing the solar light, and -reflecting principally the green rays, may have some dependence -upon the depth of the stratum. If this were the case, we might -expect all rivers, equally transparent and of equal depth, to -reflect similar colours, which is not always the case. - -In the southern part of Pennsylvania, the range called particularly -the Alleghany ridge, is near the centre, and is most elevated of -the group. Its summit divides the waters of the Susquehannah on the -east from those of the Ohio on the west. - -This mountain consists principally of argillite and the several -varieties of grey wacke, grey wacke slate, and the other -aggregates, which in transition formations usually intervene -between the metalliferous limestone and the inclined sandstone. -The strata have less inclination than in the Cove, Sideling, and -South mountains, and other ridges east of the Alleghany. The -summit is broad, and covered with heavy forests. Something of the -fertility of the Mississippi valley seems to extend, in this -direction, to the utmost limits of the secondary formation. The -western descent of the Alleghany ridge is more gradual than the -eastern, and the inclination of the strata in some measure -reversed. It is proper to remark, that, {10} throughout this group -of mountains, much irregularity prevails in the direction as well -as of the dip and inclination of strata. If any remark is -generally applicable, it is, perhaps, that the inclination of the -rocks is towards the most elevated summits in the vicinity. - -Laurel ridge, the next in succession, is separated from the -Alleghany by a wide valley. Its geological features are, in -general, similar to those of the eastern ranges; but about its -summit, the sandstones of the coal formation begin to appear -alternating with narrow beds of bituminous clay-slate. Near the -summit of this ridge, coal beds have been explored, and, at the -time of our visit, coals were sold at the pits for ten cents per -bushel. In actual elevation, the coal strata at the summit of -Laurel-hill, fall but little below the summits of the Alleghany. -Thus, in traversing from east to west the state of Pennsylvania, -there is a constant but gradual ascent from the gneiss at -Philadelphia, the several rocky strata occurring one above -another, in the inverse order of their respective ages, the points -most elevated being occupied by rocks of recent origin, abounding -in the remains of animal and vegetable life. - -Near the summit of this ridge some change is observed in the -aspect of the forest. The deep umbrageous hue of the hemlock -spruce, the Weymouth pine, and other trees of the family of -the coniferae, is exchanged for the livelier verdure of the -broad-leaved laurel, the rhododendron, and the magnolia acuminata. - -Chesnut ridge, the last of those accessary to the Alleghany on the -west, deserving the name of a mountain, is somewhat more abrupt -and precipitous, than those before mentioned. This ridge is -divided transversely by the bed of the Loyalhanna, a rapid, but -beautiful stream, along which the turnpike is built. Few spots in -the wild and mountainous regions {11} of the Alleghanies, have a -more grand and majestic scenery than this chasm. The sides and -summits of the two overhanging mountains, were, at the time of our -journey, brown, and to appearance almost naked; the few trees -which inhabit them being deciduous, while the laurels and rosebays -gave the deep and narrow vallies the luxuriant verdure of spring. - -The Monongahela rises in Virginia, in the Laurel ridge, and -running northward, receives in Pennsylvania the Yohogany, whose -sources are in the Alleghany mountain, opposite those of the -Potomac. This river, like most of those descending westward from -the Alleghany, has falls and rapids at the points where it -intersects Laurel-hill, and some of the smaller ranges. Along the -fertile bottoms of the Alleghany river, we begin to discover -traces of those ancient works so common in the lower parts of the -Mississippi valley, the only remaining vestiges of a people once -numerous and powerful, of whom time has destroyed every other -record. These colossal monuments, whatever may have been the -design of their erection, have long since outlived the memory of -those who raised them, and will remain for ages affecting -witnesses of the instability of national, as well as individual -greatness; and of the futility of those efforts, by which man -endeavours to attach his name and his memorial to the most -permanent and indestructible forms of inorganic matter. - -In the deep vallies west of the Alleghany, and even west of the -Laurel ridge, the metalliferous limestone, which appears to be the -substratum of this whole group of mountains, is again laid bare. -In this part of the range, we have not observed those frequent -alternations of clay-slate with this limestone, which have been -noticed by Mr. Eaton and others in New England.[006] In its -inclination, and in most particulars {12} of external character, it -is remarkably similar to the mountain limestone of Vermont, and the -western counties of Massachusetts. Many portions of the interior -of the state of Pennsylvania have a basis of this limestone. When -not overlaid by clay-slate, and particularly when not in connexion -with sandstone, the soils resting on the transition limestone are -found peculiarly fertile and valuable, having usually a favourable -disposition of surface for agricultural purposes, and abounding -with excellent water. - -The transition limestone is not, however, of frequent occurrence -westward of the Alleghany ridge. It appears only in the -vallies,[007] and is succeeded by clay-slate and the old sandstone -lying almost horizontally. The coal, with the accompanying strata -of argillaceous sandstone and shale, are, as far as we have seen, -entirely horizontal. - -The country westward from the base of the Chesnut ridge has an -undulating surface. The hills are broad, and terminated by a -rounded outline, and the landscape, presenting a grateful variety -of fields and forests, is often beautiful, particularly when, from -some elevation, the view overlooks a great extent of country, and -the blue summits of the distant mountains are added to the -perspective. - -Pittsburgh has been so often described, the advantages and -disadvantages of its situation, and the gloomy repulsiveness of -its appearance, have been so often and so justly portrayed, that -we should not think ourselves well employed in recounting our own -observations. The Alleghany and the Monongahela at Pittsburgh, -where they unite to form the Ohio, are nearly equal in magnitude; -the former, however, on account of the rapidity of its current, -and the transparency of its waters, is a far more beautiful river -than the latter. Its sources are distributed along the margin of -Lake Erie, and a portage, of only fifteen miles, connects its -navigation with that of the St. Lawrence. - -{13} About the sources of the Alleghany are extensive forests of -pine, whence are drawn great supplies of lumber for the country -below as far as New Orleans. On French Creek, and other tributary -streams, are large bodies of low and rather fertile lands, closely -covered with forests, where the great Weymouth pine, and the -hemlock spruce, are intermixed with beech, birch, and the sugar -maple. The great white or Weymouth pine, is one of the most -beautiful of the North American species. Its trunk often attains -the diameter of five or six feet, rising smooth and straight from -sixty to eighty feet, and terminated by a dense conical top. This -tree, though not exclusively confined to the northern parts of our -continent, attains there its greatest magnitude and perfection. It -forms a striking feature in the forest scenery of Vermont, New -Hampshire, and some parts of Canada, and New York; rising by -nearly half its elevation above the summits of the other trees, -and resembling, like the palms of the tropics, so beautifully -described by M. De Saint Pierre, and M. De Humboldt, "a forest -planted upon another forest."[008] The sighing of the wind in the -tops of these trees, resembles the scarce audible murmurings of a -distant waterfall, and adds greatly to the impression of solemnity -produced by the gloom and silence of the pine forest. In the -southern parts of the Alleghany mountains, pines are less -frequent, and in the central portions of the valley of the -Mississippi, they are extremely rare. - -The coal formation, containing the beds which have long been -wrought near Pittsburgh, appears to be of great extent; but we are -unable particularly to point out its limits towards the north and -east.[009] One hundred miles above Pittsburgh, near the Alleghany -river, is a spring, on the surface of {14} whose waters are found -such quantities of a bituminous oil, that a person may gather -several gallons in a day. This spring is most probably connected -with coal strata, as are numerous similar ones in Ohio, Kentucky, -&c.[010] Indeed, it appears reasonable to believe that the coal -strata are continued along the western slope of the Alleghanies -with little interruption, at least as far northward as the brine -springs of Onondago. Of all the saline springs belonging to this -formation, and whose waters are used for the manufacture of salt, -the most important are those of the Kenhawa, a river of Virginia. -Others occur in that country of ancient monuments, about Paint -Creek, between the Sciota and the Muskinghum, near the Silver -Creek hills in Illinois; and indeed in almost all the country -contiguous to the Ohio river. Wherever we have had the opportunity -of observing these brine springs, we have usually found them in -connexion with an argillaceous sandstone, bearing impressions of -phytolytes, culmaria, and those tessellated zoophytes, so common -about many coal beds.[011] It appeared to us worthy of remark, that -in many places, where explorations have been made for salt water, -and where perpendicular shafts have been carried to the depth of -from two to four hundred feet, the water, when found, rises with -sufficient force to elevate itself several feet above the surface -of the earth. This effect appears to be produced by the pressure -of an aerial fluid, existing in connexion with the water, in those -cavities beneath the strata of sandstone, where the latter is -confined, or escaping from combination with it, as soon as the -requisite enlargement is given, by perforating the superincumbent -strata. We have had no opportunity of examining attentively the -gaseous substances which escape from the brine pits, but from -their sensible properties we are induced to suppose, that carbonic -acid, and carburetted hydrogen, are among those of most frequent -occurrence.[012] - -{15} The little village of Olean,[013] on the Alleghany river, has -been for many years a point of embarkation, where great numbers of -families, migrating from the northern and eastern states, have -exchanged their various methods, of slow and laborious progression -by land, for the more convenient one of the navigation of the -Ohio. From Olean downward, the Alleghany and Ohio bear along with -their currents fleets of rude arks laden with cattle, horses, -household furniture, agricultural implements, and numerous -families having all their possessions embarked on the same bottom, -and floating onward toward that imaginary region of happiness and -contentment, which, like the "town of the brave and generous -spirits," the expected heaven of the aboriginal American, lies -always "beyond the place where the sun goes down." - -This method of transportation, though sometimes speedy and -convenient, is attended with uncertainty and danger. A moderate -wind blowing up the river, produces such swells in some parts of -the Ohio, as to endanger the safety of the ark; and these heavy -unmanageable vessels are with difficulty so guided in their -descent, as to avoid the _planters_, sunken logs, and other -concealed obstructions to the navigation of the Ohio. We have -known many instances of boats of this kind so suddenly sunk, as -only to afford time for the escape of the persons on board. - -On the 6th we arrived at Wheeling,[014] a small town of Virginia, -situate on a narrow margin along the bank of the Ohio, at the base -of a high cliff of sandstone. Here the great national road from -Cumberland comes in conjunction with that of Zanesville, Columbus, -and Cincinnati. The town of Cumberland, from which this great -national work has received the appellation of the Cumberland road, -lies on the north side of the Potomac, one hundred and forty miles -E. by S. from Wheeling. The road between these two points was -constructed by the government {16} of the United States, at a cost -of one million eight hundred thousand dollars.[015] The bridges and -other works of masonry, on the western portion of this road, are -built of a compact argillaceous sandstone, of a light gray or -yellowish white colour, less durable than the stone used in the -middle and eastern sections, which is the blue metalliferous -limestone, one of the most beautiful and imperishable among the -materials for building which our country affords. A few miles from -Wheeling, a small but beautiful bridge, forming a part of this -road, is ornamented with a statue of that distinguished statesman, -Mr. Clay; erected, as we were informed, by a gentleman who resides -in that neighbourhood. - -In an excursion on shore, near the little village of Charleston, -[016] in Virginia, we met with many plants common to the eastern -side of the Alleghanies; beside the delicate sison bulbosum, whose -fruit was now nearly ripened. In shady situations we found the -rocks, and even the trunks of trees to some little distance from -the ground, closely covered with the sedum ternatum, with white -flowers fully unfolded. The cercis canadensis, and the cornus -florida, were now expanding their flowers, and in some places -occurred so frequently, as to impart their lively colouring to the -landscape. In their walks on shore, the gentlemen of the party -collected great numbers of the early-flowering herbaceous plants, -common to various parts of the United States.[017] An enumeration -of a few of the species most commonly known, with the dates of -their flowering, is given in the note. - -The scenery of the banks of the Ohio, for two or three hundred -miles below Pittsburgh, is eminently beautiful, but is deficient -in grandeur and variety. The hills usually approach on both sides -nearly to the brink of the river; they have a rounded and graceful -form, and are so grouped as to produce a pleasing effect. Broad -and gentle swells of two or three hundred feet, covered with the -verdure of the almost unbroken {17} forest, embosom a calm and -majestic river; from whose unruffled surface, the broad outline of -the hills is reflected with a distinctness equal to that with -which it is imprinted upon the azure vault of the sky. In a few -instances near the summits of the hills, the forest trees become -so scattered, as to disclose here and there a rude mass, or a -perpendicular precipice of gray sandstone, or compact limestone, -the prevailing rocks in all this region. The hills are, however, -usually covered with soil on all sides, except that looking -towards the river, and in most instances are susceptible of -cultivation to their summits. These hilly lands are found capable -of yielding, by ordinary methods of culture, about fifty bushels -of maize per acre. They were originally covered with dense and -uninterrupted forests, in which the beech trees were those of most -frequent occurrence. These forests are now disappearing before the -industry of man; and the rapid increase of population and wealth, -which a few years have produced, speaks loudly in favour of the -healthfulness of the climate, and of the internal resources of the -country. The difficulty of establishing an indisputable title to -lands, has been a cause operating hitherto to retard the progress -of settlement, in some of the most fertile parts of the country of -the Ohio; and the inconveniences resulting from this source still -continue to be felt. - -On the 7th, we passed the mouth of the Kenhawa, and the little -village of Point Pleasant. The spot now occupied by this village -is rendered memorable, on account of the recollections connected -with one of the most affecting incidents in the history of the -aboriginal population. It was here that a battle was fought, in -the autumn of 1774, between the collected forces of the Shawanees, -Mingoes, and Delawares on one side, and a detachment of the -Virginia militia, on the other. In this battle, Logan, _the friend -of the whites_, avenged himself in a signal manner of the injuries -of one man, by whom all his women {18} and children had been -murdered. Notwithstanding his intrepid conduct, the Indians were -defeated, and sued for peace; but Logan disdained to be seen among -the suppliants. He would not turn on his heel to save his life. -"For my country," said he, "I rejoice in the beams of peace; but, -do not harbour a thought that mine is the joy of fear. Logan never -felt fear. Who is there to mourn for Logan! Not one." This story -is eloquently related by Mr. Jefferson, in his "Notes on -Virginia," and is familiar to the recollection of all who have -read that valuable work.[018] - -In the afternoon of the 8th, we encountered a tremendous -thunder-storm, in which our boat, in spite of all the exertions we -were able to make, was driven on shore; but we fortunately escaped -with little injury, losing only our flag-staff with the lantern -attached to it, and some other articles of little importance. On -the following day we passed Maysville,[019] a small town of -Kentucky. On our return to Philadelphia, in 1821, we were delayed -some time at this place; and taking advantage of the opportunity -thus afforded, we made an excursion into that beautiful -agricultural district, south-east of Maysville, about the large -village of Washington.[020] The uplands here are extremely fertile, -and in an advanced state of cultivation. The disposition of the -surface resembles that in the most moderately hilly parts of -Pennsylvania; and to the same graceful undulation of the -landscape, the same pleasing alternation of cultivated fields, -with dense and umbrageous forests, is added an aspect of -luxuriant fertility, surpassing any thing we have seen eastward of -the Alleghanies. Having prolonged our walk many miles, we entered -after sunset a tall grove of elms and hickories; towards which we -were attracted by some unusual sounds. Directed by these, we at -length reached an open quadrangular area of several acres, where -the forest had been in part cleared away, and much grass had -sprung up. Here we found several hundreds of people, part sitting -{19} in tents and booths, regularly arranged around the area, and -lighted with lamps, candles, and fires; part assembled about an -elevated station, listening to religious exhortations. The night -had now become dark, and the heavy gloom of the forest, rendered -more conspicuous by the feeble light of the encampment, together -with the apparent solemnity of the great numbers of people, -assembled for religious worship, made considerable impression on -our feelings. - -On the 9th May, we arrived at Cincinnati.[021] Since our departure -from Pittsburgh, Dr. Baldwin's illness had increased, and he had -now become so unwell, that some delay appeared necessary on his -account; as we wished also for an opportunity of making some -repairs and alterations in the machinery of the boat, it was -resolved to remain at Cincinnati some days. Dr. Baldwin was -accordingly moved on shore, to the house of Mr. Glen, and Dr. -Drake was requested to attend him. Cincinnati is the largest town -on the Ohio. It is on the north bank of the river, and the ground -on which it stands is elevated, rising gradually from the water's -edge.[022] - -Compact limestone appears here, in the bed of the Ohio, and -extends some distance in all directions. This limestone has been -used in paving the streets, for which purpose its tabular -fragments are placed on edge, as bricks are sometimes used in -flagging. The formation of limestone, to which this rock belongs, -is one of great extent, occupying a large part of the country from -the shores of Lake Erie, to the southern boundary of the state of -Tennessee.[023] It appears, however, to be occasionally -interrupted, or overlaid by fields of sandstone. It abounds in -casts, and {20} impressions of marine animals. An orthocerite, in -the museum of the college[024] at Cincinnati, measures near three -feet in length. Very large specimens of what has been considered -lignite, have also been discovered and parts of them deposited in -that collection. We saw here no remains of ammonites. Numerous -other species appear to be similar to those found in the limestone -of the Catskill and Hellebergh mountains. - -The soil, which overlays the limestone of Cincinnati, is a deep -argillaceous loam, intermixed with much animal and vegetable -matter. Vegetation is here luxuriant; and many plants unknown -eastward of the Alleghany mountains, were constantly presenting -themselves to our notice. Two species of aesculus are common. One -of these has a nut as large as that of the Ae. hippocastanum, of -the Mediterranean, the common horse-chesnut of the gardens. - -These nuts are round, and after a little exposure become -black, except in that part which originally formed the point -of attachment to the receptacle, which is an oblong spot -three-fourths of an inch in diameter; the whole bearing some -resemblance to the eyeball of a deer, or other animal. Hence the -name _buck-eye_, which is applied to the tree. The several species -of aesculus are confined principally to the western states and -territories. In allusion to this circumstance, the indigenous -backwoodsman is sometimes called buck-eye, in distinction from -the numerous emigrants who are introducing themselves from the -eastern states. The opprobrious name of Yankee is applied to -these last, who do not always stand high in the estimation of the -natives of the south and west. Few of these sectional prejudices -are, however, to be discovered in Ohio, the greater part of the -population here having been derived from New England. Cincinnati, -which in 1810, contained 2500 inhabitants, is now said to number -about 12,000.[025] Its plan is regular, and most of the buildings -are of {21} brick. The dwellings are neat and capacious, and -sometimes elegant. - -The site of the town was heretofore an aboriginal station, as -appears from the numerous remains of ancient works still visible. -We forbear to give any account of these interesting monuments, as -they have already been repeatedly described.[026] - -On Tuesday, the 18th, the weather becoming clear and pleasant, Dr. -Baldwin thought himself sufficiently recovered to proceed on the -voyage; accordingly, having assisted him on board the boat, we -left Cincinnati at ten o'clock. - -During our stay at that place, we had been gratified by the -hospitable attentions of the inhabitants of the town. Mr. Glen was -unremitting in his exertions to promote the recovery of Dr. -Baldwin's health; to him, as well as to Dr. Drake, and several -other gentlemen of Cincinnati, all the members of our party were -indebted for many friendly attentions. - -Below Cincinnati the scenery of the Ohio becomes more monotonous -than above. The hills recede from the river, and are less elevated. -Heavy forests cover the banks on either side, and intercept -the view from all distant objects. This is, however, somewhat -compensated by the magnificence of the forests themselves. Here the -majestic platanus attains its greatest dimensions, and the snowy -whiteness of its branches is advantageously contrasted with the -deep verdure of the cotton-wood, and other trees which occur in the -low grounds. - -The occidental plane tree is, perhaps, the grandest of the -American forest trees, and little inferior, in any respect, to the -boasted plane tree of the Levant. The platanus orientalis attains, -in its native forests, a diameter of from ten to sixteen feet. An -American plane tree, which we measured, on the bank of the Ohio, -between Cincinnati and the rapids at Louisville, was fourteen feet -in diameter. One which stood, some years since, near the village -of {22} Marietta, was found, by M. Michaux, to measure 15-7/10 ft. -in diameter, at twenty feet from the ground.[027] They often rise -to an elevation of one hundred and fifty feet. The branches are -very large and numerous, forming a spreading top, densely covered -with foliage. Many of those trees, which attain the greatest size, -are decayed in the interior of the trunk, long after the annual -increase continues to be added at the exterior circumference. The -growth of the American plane tree does not appear to be very -rapid. It was remarked by Humboldt, that in the hot and damp lands -of North America, between the Mississippi and the Alleghany -mountains, the growth of trees is about one-fifth more rapid than -in Europe, taking for examples the platanus occidentalis, the -liriodendron tulipifera, and the cupressus disticha, all of which -reach from nine to fifteen feet in diameter. It is his opinion -that the growth in these trees does not exceed a foot in diameter -in ten years.[028] As far as our observation has enabled us to -judge, this estimate rather exceeds than falls short of the truth. -This growth is greatly exceeded in rapidity by the baobab, and -other trees in the tropical parts of America; also by the gigantic -adansonia of the eastern continent,[029] and equalled, perhaps, by -several trees in our own climate, whose duration is less extended -than that of those above mentioned.[030] - -The sycamore, or occidental plane tree, has been cultivated for -more than one hundred and eighty years in England, yet it does not -appear to have become entirely naturalized there, as we are -informed by President Smith,[031] that great numbers were killed by -the severe frost of the winters of 1810-11. In America this tree -is very widely distributed, and {23} extends northward beyond the -forty-fifth degree of north latitude. In the fertile alluvial -lands of Otter Creek, and other rivers which discharge into Lake -Champlain, the sycamore attains more than one-half the magnitude -which it is seen to reach in the most prolific portions of the -Mississippi valley; it appears, therefore, that some other cause -than the frigidity of the climate, must have occasioned the -destruction of the plane trees in England, since it is well known -that the winters of Vermont and Lower Canada far surpass in -severity those of the island of Great Britain. - -The fruit of the sycamore is the favourite food of the paroquet, -and large flocks of these gaily-plumed birds constantly enliven -the gloomy forests of the Ohio. - -During the night of the 18th, the weather being clear, we -continued on our voyage, as is customary with most of the -steam-boats navigating the Ohio. - -It was long since remarked by Mr. Schulz,[032] and considered by -him as an inexplicable circumstance, that the reflection, by -night, of the image of the banks of the Ohio, does not furnish an -infallible guide to the middle of the bed of the river. Nothing -is more manifest than that the banks at different places, having -different degrees of elevation, and being sometimes naked, and -sometimes covered with very tall trees, must, of necessity, cast -shadows of different lengths, upon the surface of the water; -consequently that the luminous stripe along the middle of the -river, from the surface of which the sky and the stars are -reflected, must be greatly subject to irregularities in position -and direction. This circumstance often proves very annoying to -inexperienced pilots, who attempt to navigate the Ohio, or any -other river of similar character, by night, as we have had -occasion in many instances to experience. - -On the morning of the 19th we arrived at Louisville[033] having -passed, in the night, the boats containing {24} the sixth regiment -of infantry, then on their way to the Missouri. At Louisville, we -stopped to procure a pilot to conduct our boat over the rapids. -Two or three pilots appointed pursuant to an act of the -legislature of Kentucky, reside at Louisville, always holding -themselves in readiness to go on board such boats as are about to -descend the rapids, and leaving them again at Shippingsport; for -which service they are entitled to receive two dollars for each -ark or raft. - -At these rapids, called usually the falls of the Ohio, the river -descends about twenty-two feet, in a distance of less than two -miles. At times of high water an acceleration of current, not -usual in other parts of the river, is all that is perceived in -passing down this descent: at other times the water is dashed and -broken upon the rocky and uneven bed of the channel, called the -_Indian chute_, through which a great part of the water passes. -The magnificence of a cataract is, however, at no time displayed -here; and it is only in peculiar conditions of the atmosphere, -that the noise of the fall can be heard at the distance of -one-fourth of a mile from the bank of the river. - -Large boats ascend the rapids at the time of the spring floods, by -the aid of a cable made fast to a tree, or some other object -above, and taken in by the capstan. In 1821, the Maysville, a -steam-boat of about two hundred tons, was taken up, and had nearly -reached the head of the rapid, when the cable broke; and the boat -swinging round, was thrown against the rocks, in the bed of the -river, and placed in such a situation as to render hopeless all -attempts to get her off before the next annual rise of the water. -Arks and small barges descend, by the aid of skilful pilots, for -great part of the year. It is expected that the navigation of this -dangerous rapid will soon be rendered more convenient, by -canaling, which can be accomplished at a very inconsiderable {25} -expense. The direction of the Ohio, above and below the rapids, is -nearly from north-east to south-west, but where the stream passes -the rocky obstruction occasioning the fall, it is a little -deflected from its course, making a bend towards the west. Thus a -point is formed on the south-eastern side projecting from the -elevated bank, which, from its present position, would seem to -indicate that the bed of the river had changed its place, having -formerly traversed the point from north-east to south-west, in a -direct line. In times of high floods the water is, in part, -discharged through this old channel, and large boats are said to -have ascended by that route within a few years past. - -On this point stands the small town of Shippingsport, at the foot -of the rapids.[034] The proposed canal will traverse the point in -the rear of this village. The obstacles to be encountered in -opening a canal at this place are but trifling. The soil is firm -and gravelly, being based on horizontal strata of compact -limestone, and fine argillaceous sandstone.[035] - -The sandstone, which is the rock of most common occurrence about -the rapids, very closely resembles that of Pittsburgh. It is -commonly of a compact texture, having an argillaceous cement, with -a laminated structure. At Shippingsport, and at Clarksville,[036] -in Indiana, it is succeeded by bituminous clay-slate. While we -were waiting at the rapids, several of the party made an excursion -to visit the boiling spring, at the foot of the Silver Creek -hills, in Indiana, at a little distance from New Albany.[037] This -spring is small, discharging no water above the surface of the -ground. It is an artificial excavation in the clayey bank of a -small stream, called Fountain Creek. It is filled to the level of -the water in the creek, the spring itself evidently discharging -very little, if any water. That which fills the basin is turbid, -being kept in constant agitation by the bubbles of inflammable air -which rise through it. The {26} smell of sulphuretted hydrogen is -perceptible at considerable distance about the spring; and a piece -of silver, held near the surface of the water, was quickly -tarnished. The Silver Creek hills are of argillaceous sandstone, -and secondary clay-slate; and this spring seems to be placed near -the meeting of the two strata. - -In the bed of the Ohio, opposite Shippingsport, is a tabular mass -of rocks, visible above water for great part of the year, and -called Corn Island.[038] On the highest parts of this, are -remaining some small portions of the limestone stratum, which -appears in many places to have been worn through, and removed by -the river. Five or six acres of the surface of this island are of -the smooth compact argillaceous sandrock before mentioned, lying -horizontally, and divided into squares and parallelograms by the -natural fissures. These fissures contain some soil which supports, -in the summer, a dense growth of herbaceous plants. Among these, -we noticed the hypericum sphaecrocarpum of Michaux, (apparently not -the plant mentioned by Nuttall, under that name, which has been -noticed near Philadelphia, by Collins and others, but without -doubt that originally described by Michaux). Two species of -andropogon, the panicum virgatum, solanum nigrum, polygala -verticillata, leplanthus gramineus, chenopodium botrys, &c. The -lower part of the island is covered with loose sand; bearing some -small cotton-wood and willow trees. - -The unenclosed grounds, about Louisville and Shippingsport, are -extensive, and afford pasturage to great numbers of domestic -animals. They are, however, much overrun with luxuriant weeds. -The datura strammonium, which is common in every part of Ohio, -is sometimes eaten by sheep; and the spiny capsules of the -seed, when about half ripened, we have seen eaten with apparent -avidity by cows. In addition to this loathsome plant, the common -May-weed (anthemis cotula) has become abundant {27} in all the -waste-grounds, to the exclusion of the native plants. A few of -these, which keep their places with the greatest obstinacy by the -road sides, are the sida abutilon and S. spinosa, and the verbena -hastata; while the thistles, chrysanthemums and Johnsworts, so -common about old fields in New England, are not to be met with. The -eleusine mucronata, of _Pursh_, is one of the most frequent grasses -along the streets. - -The Silver Creek hills are elevated about one hundred and fifty or -two hundred feet above the level of the country in the rear of -Jeffersonville.[039] They form a continuous range, crossing the -country from north to south. On the Kentucky side they constitute -the commencement of a rugged and barren district, called the -_Knobs_, and extending far to the south.[040] At some remote period -this range may have formed a barrier, extending across what is now -the immediate valley of the Ohio, and retarding the retreat of the -waters from the tract above the falls.[041] Coal occurs frequently -in this range of hills, on the north side of the Ohio; quarries -have been opened near the Blue river, in Indiana, about the two -Pidgeons, opposite the mouth of Green river, and in various other -places.[042] - -The larger steam-boats which run on the Mississippi, and the Ohio, -ascend usually no farther than Shippingsport; and several of them -remain at this place, during several months of the summer, while -the water is too low to admit their passing up and down the -rivers. This time it is often necessary to spend in repairs of -various kinds. The high steam-engines require frequent repairs, -and in the difficult navigation of the Mississippi the hulks of -vessels are often injured. It frequently happens that the boats -built at Pittsburgh, and other places near the sources of the -Ohio, are, within three or four years after they {28} are -launched, in a condition to require the planking of the hulk to be -replaced with new timber. These boats are usually planked with the -upland white oak: we have been informed that such as are built -lower down on the river, and of timber found in the low grounds, -are more durable. - - -FOOTNOTES: - - [001] John Biddle, a Pennsylvanian, entered the army July - 6, 1812, as second lieutenant in the 3d Artillery. In March - following he became first lieutenant, and in the succeeding - October captain in the 42d Infantry. He was transferred - to the artillery corps in 1815, made major and assistant - inspector-general in 1817, and disbanded in 1821. He was in - Long's party only during the first season. - - William Baldwin (1779-1819), also of Pennsylvania, was the son - of a minister of the Society of Friends. He studied medicine - in the University of Pennsylvania, taking his degree in 1807. - Meanwhile he had become interested in botany, and upon - locating at Wilmington, Delaware, to practice his profession, - studied assiduously the flora of the vicinity. In 1811 - ill-health compelled him to remove to Georgia, but during the - War of 1812-15 he served as a surgeon in the army. In 1817 he - was a member of the special commission sent by the federal - government to investigate the affairs of the Spanish-American - colonies, then struggling for independence. Some of Dr. - Baldwin's writings were published in the _Transactions_ of the - American Philosophical Society and _Silliman's Journal_. He - died while upon the present expedition, and a further sketch - will be found in the text, _post_. - - Thomas Say (1787-1834) was also the son of a Pennsylvania - Friend, Benjamin Say, a physician, and one of the "fighting - Quakers" of the Revolution. Thomas was one of the founders of - the Academy of Natural Sciences at Philadelphia, and before - joining Long's expedition had taken part in a scientific - exploration of the coasts of Georgia and Florida. He accompanied - Major Long upon his later expedition up St. Peter's River. - In 1825 he joined the colony under Robert Dale Owen, at New - Harmony, Indiana. His principal work was _American Entomology_ - (Philadelphia, 3 vols., 1824-28). He is said to have discovered - more new species of insects than any predecessor, many of them - being discovered during the present exploration. - - Augustus Edward Jessup was born at New Richmond, Massachusetts, - in 1789, and although known chiefly as a prosperous Philadelphia - business man, was much interested in science, being an early - member of the Philadelphia Academy. He remained with the - expedition during the first season only. - - Titian Ramsey Peale (1800-1885) came of a family which has - produced a remarkable number of artists, the most notable - being a brother, Rembrandt. His father, an uncle, another - brother, and three cousins achieved more or less distinction - in that field. Like his father and brother, T. R. Peale - divided his attention between art and natural science. He was - an officer of the Philadelphia Academy, and author of - _Mammalia and Ornithology_ (1848). From 1838 to 1842 he was a - member of Lieutenant Charles Wilkes's exploring expedition to - the South Sea; during the years 1849-72 he was an examiner in - the patent office. - - The events of the life of Samuel Seymour are now not known. - - James D. Graham (1799-1865), a Virginian, was a West-Pointer - of the class of 1817. When ordered on Long's expedition he was - first lieutenant in the artillery corps. From 1822-29 was on - topographical duty in Vermont and elsewhere. This experience - was followed by a number of years of railroad surveying, and - he also took part in nearly all the federal boundary surveys - of the period, serving on the northeastern, Canadian, and - Mexican boundary commissions. During the later years of his - life he was in charge of harbor improvements on the Atlantic - coast and Great Lakes, and while engaged in the latter work - discovered the existence of lake tides. At the time of his - death he was colonel in the corps of engineers. - - William Henry Swift, of Massachusetts, was of mixed Puritan and - Huguenot stock. His father was an army surgeon, and a brother, - General Joseph Gardner Swift, was the first graduate of West - Point. William himself entered the military academy when but - thirteen years of age (1813), and as his class graduated during - his absence on Long's expedition, he was, under date of July 1, - 1819, promoted to a lieutenancy in the artillery corps. The map - of the country explored by the expedition was prepared by him. - His later career was notable--he was engaged especially on coast - improvements, fortifications, railroads, and canals; to him more - than to any one else is attributed the success of the Illinois - and Michigan canal. His collection of papers relative to the - latter was, upon his death, presented to the Chicago Historical - Society.--ED. - - - [002] Allegheny arsenal is on the Pittsburg side of Allegheny - River, opposite the upper end of McCullough's Island. The - grounds lie between Thirty-ninth and Fortieth streets. The - site was purchased in 1814; a wall inclosing the grounds was - completed in 1829. The arsenal was for many years used in the - manufacture of war materials, a force of twelve hundred men - being employed there during the War of Secession. Since 1868 - it has been used as a military post, and as a quartermaster's - depot. There were recently (1904) discovered there the principal - documents relating to the equipment of the Lewis and Clark - expedition, which was largely outfitted therefrom.--ED. - - - [003] Caprimulgus vociferus.--JAMES. - - - [004] _Triton lateralis._ SAY.--_Body_ and extremity above - brown, with irregular black spots; _tail_ much compressed, - subacutely edged above and beneath, lanceolate; a black vitta - from the nostrils passes through the eyes, and is dilated on the - sides, and becomes obsolete on the tail; a vertebral indented - line, from the neck to the origin of the caudal carina, more - faintly indented on the head; _head_ somewhat rectilineary - attenuated from the anterior branchia, to the vicinity of the - nostril, and truncate or subemarginate before; _nostrils_ - minute; _eyes_ very small, whitish, crossed with the lateral - line of the head; _beneath_ pale flesh-colour; _chin_ and _jaws_ - to the branchia, and _tail_ from the posterior feet, with the - exception of the areola of the anus, coloured like the back; - _mouth_ moderate, angles beneath the eyes; _lips_ covering - the jaws freely, inferior lip with a duplicature each side, - which is white and covered by the superior lip; _tongue_ free, - fleshy, rounded, extending beyond the angles of the mouth; - _teeth_, lower jaw in a single row, obtusely conic, small, - rather distant; a few smaller ones near the angle, elevated on - a slightly prominent portion of the jaw; _superior jaw_, with - a double series of teeth similar to the others, but rather - smaller, an unarmed depression corresponding with the elevation - in the lower jaw, and a few elevated teeth nearer the angle; - _throat_ with a duplicated cuticle; branchiae permanent. Legs - short, weak, four-toed. - - Total length 10 inches, from the tip of the nose to the vent, - 6-1/2 inches. - - We caught this animal with the hook and line in the neighbourhood - of Pittsburgh, but it is by no means so common there as the - Salamandra Alleghaniensis of Michaux, or young alligator. - - The colour above is in reality pale, but it is rendered of a - brownish appearance by the very numerous confluent points of - that colour, which nearly cover the surface of the body; - branchia bright red; peduncles colour of the body. Daudin - informs us, that Schneider, in his history of Amphibia, - describes an animal very similar to this, found in Lake - Champlain, and which Daudin supposes to be the larva of - _Triton Alleghaniensis_; Daudin, however, is of the opinion, - that the hind feet were mutilated, from the circumstance of - their having only four toes. - - The late Professor B. S. Barton had heard of this animal, and - from the account he received, was led to regard it as a Siren. - - Finally, Dr. Mitchell has autoptically described the animal, - in the 4th vol. of Silliman's Journal, as a Proteus. - - Not supposing the _lateralis_ to belong, strictly speaking, to - either of these genera, and with a view to ascertain its real - nature, we obtained permission from the Academy of Natural - Science, to open a specimen belonging to their cabinet, and - which was brought from the Ohio by Mr. J. Speakman. The result - corresponded with our most confident expectations, showing - that the number of its vertebrae is greatly inferior to that of - the Proteus, and corresponding with that of the Tritons; and - that the pseudo ribs were in an entire series, somewhat - superior in proportional length and perfection of form to - those of the Proteus, and resembling those of the Triton. It - has, therefore, a far more close alliance with the genus - Triton, than with any other yet established. - - Several animals have been described, to which it is more - closely related by the character of the persistent branchia, - than it is to the well-known types of the genus, of which the - branchia disappear at the age of puberty. Of such animals the - following may be instanced: - - The _Axolotl_ of Mexico. Siren pisciformis of Shaw. Gen. Zool. - - The _Tetradactyla_ of Lacepede in the Ann. des Mus. vol. x. - - The _Siren Operculee_ of Beauvois in Philos. Trans. of Phila. - vol. iv. - - And possibly also, the _Proteus Neo Caesariensis_ of Professor - Green.--Jour. A. N. S. vol. i. - - These four or five species might with propriety be separated - from the genus to which they are referable in the present - state of the system, and placed in a separate genus, the - external characters of which will be the same as those of - Triton, with the exception of the persistent branchia. Its - proper station will doubtless be intermediate between Triton - and Proteus, but far more closely related to the former. - - It may be proper to mention in this place, that the generic name - _Triton_, was applied by Laurenti to the Newts, long before - Montfort made use of it in Conchology to designate the war - conch of the ancient Romans, and of the present inhabitants of - Madison's Island. - - We are indebted to Dr. Richard Harlan, for the following - anatomical observations, on this singular animal. - - Alveolar margins of the maxillae serrated, the spiculae pointing - backwards towards the oesophagus. The oesophagus very large, like - that of the serpents, gradually expanding as it descends to - form the stomach, which again contracts at the commencement of - the intestinal tube; the lining membrane of the oesophagus and - stomach, thrown into longitudinal folds, which were continued - throughout the intestines; which tube undergoes several - enlargements in its course, giving it a sacculated appearance - similar to the alimentary canal of the alligator; in the animal - under consideration, they form several convolutions previous - to their termination into the cloaca; the stomach contained an - earth worm. The mesentery transparent, displaying a number of - very large lacteals, which, in the present instance, were filled - with coagulated chyle. Length of the intestines 10 inches. - The ovary is of considerable size, of an oblong figure, lying - close to the vertebrae, and opening by a straight duct into the - posterior part of the cloaca. _Liver_ very large, and apparently - (but not certainly) discharged its contents into the stomach. - _Lungs_ consist of two long membranous bags, which run the whole - length of the abdomen, anteriorly to the stomach and intestines; - the opening of the larynx scarcely large enough to admit a pin's - head; the lungs resemble two long air-bags, more than a true - pulmonary apparatus; the cartilaginous laminae of the branchia, - three in number, attached superiorly to the integuments over the - cervical vertebrae, converging together beneath or anteriorly, - and are attached to a cartilage answering to the os hyoides; the - heart, which was extremely small, consisted apparently of one - auricle and one ventricle, the aorta soon bifurcated, sending - one branch to each pulmonary apparatus to be intimately ramified - upon the branchia, resembling so far the circulation of fishes, - and differing from the amphibia, in which there is either a - double or mixed circulation. - - Olfactory apparatus similar to that of fishes, viz. a small - aperture near the extremity of the snout leads into a cavity - or _cul de sac_, lined by a delicate membrane, plentifully - supplied by the fibrillae of two slender olfactory nerves, - which go off from the anterior end of each lobe of the - cerebrum. The brain is of an oblong figure, the cerebrum is - formed of two lobes, the cerebellum of one lobe situate - directly posterior, not much thicker than the medulla - oblongata. The optic nerves, which were large in proportion to - the organs of vision, took their origin in a very unusual - manner. On either side of the medulla oblongata, is given off - a large nerve, which proceeds forwards and outwards, and soon - after it passes outside of the cavity of the cranium, it - divides into two branches, the smaller goes to the eye, the - larger is distributed to the superior maxilla. The eye itself - is small, and the lens which was coagulated by the spirits, is - about half the size of a pin's-head, and of the texture of the - lens of a fish when boiled. - - The number of vertebrae from the atlas to the last lumbar, is - exactly nineteen; to the transverse processes of all of them - (after the two first) is attached, by a movable articulation, - a small slender spicular of bone, or rib-like process, about - one-eighth of an inch in length, which at the same time, they - give origin to the large muscles that move the body, offer no - obstruction to the lateral curvatures of the animal when in - motion, but as to appearance or function are not to be - considered as ribs. The number of vertebrae from the first - sacral to the last caudal, is from twenty to thirty-five; they - become exceedingly small towards the end of the tail; on the - back part of the oesophagus, exterior to the cavity of the - cranium, is found on each side, a calcareous concretion, - similar to that in the head of the shark.--JAMES. - - - [005] Maclure.--JAMES. - - - [006] Geological Survey of Rensselaer county, p. 11.--JAMES. - - - [007] When central Pennsylvania began to seek an - outlet for her population, the fertility of the soil produced - by the disintegration of the limestone flooring of the - northeast-and-southwest valleys of the mountains, and the - barriers to Western migration imposed by the parallel ridges, - directed most of the pioneers southwestward.--ED. - - - [008] See Humboldt's Personal Narrative, vol. v. p. 46. Also St. - Pierre's Paul and Virginia.--JAMES. - - - [009] The great coal field of which that of western Pennsylvania - is a part, is eight hundred miles in length and one hundred and - eighty in width. Besides Pennsylvania, it includes southeastern - Ohio, the western part of Maryland, most of West Virginia, - portions of Kentucky and Tennessee, and the northern end of - Alabama. In Pennsylvania, the main field does not extend farther - north than a central east-and-west line, but several great - projections reach almost to the northern boundary. East of the - Alleghenies the deposits are anthracite, while the bituminous - fields occupy the southwestern section of the state.--ED. - - - [010] The uses of petroleum have been known from time - immemorial; but the quantities laboriously gathered from springs - like those here described were economically insignificant. The - importance of the industry dates from the discovery, in 1858, - that vast quantities of oil could be obtained by drilling wells. - The excitement which ensued was comparable to that caused - by finding gold in California. Among United States exports, - petroleum products now rank near the top of the column.--ED. - - - [011] James implies that the Onondaga salt deposits are in the - Carboniferous system. Such deposits, however, occur in almost - every geological system, from Silurian to Recent, and the New - York areas are found in the Silurian; the Kanawha salt district - is Carboniferous. The Onondaga springs were known to Jesuit - missionaries as early as 1646, and soon after were utilized in - making salt for the Indian trade. The existence of salt licks - and springs west of the mountains was an important factor in the - settlement of the trans-Allegheny country. The pioneers could - not have ventured so far from the coast without a native supply - of this necessity.--ED. - - - [012] So-called gas springs were known to settlers long before - any attempt was made to utilize the product; about 1821, - burners were first devised by which it was made to serve for - lighting purposes. For several years after the beginning of - the oil industry, gas was generally considered as a worthless - and troublesome by-product, and not many wells were drilled - for it until after 1870. The pressure of the gas is sometimes - enormous--as much as three hundred and fifty pounds to the - square inch has been noted. Natural gas consists essentially of - carburetted hydrogen.--ED. - - - [013] Olean is situated at the head of navigation of the - Allegheny, at the mouth of Olean Creek, in Cattaraugus County, - New York. The first settlers came prior to 1805. It was the - southern terminus of the Genesee Valley canal (begun in 1836), - until in the fifties when that waterway was extended to the - Pennsylvania line. The growth of Olean has been rapid since the - inception of the oil industry; it now being one of the most - important storage and shipping points in the oil fields.--ED. - - - [014] For sketch of Wheeling, see Andre Michaux's _Travels_, in - our volume iii, note 15.--ED. - - - [015] For note on national road, see Harris's _Journal_, in our - volume iii, note 45.--ED. - - - [016] Charleston, the seat of Kanawha County, West Virginia, - is situated on the Great Kanawha, about fifty miles above its - mouth. The site was included in a grant made (1772) by Lord - Dunmore, royal governor of Virginia, to Thomas Bullitt. In 1786 - Bullitt transferred his claim to George Clendenin, who was the - first settler on the spot; he built Clendenin's fort in 1786 or - 1787.--ED. - - - [017] _April_ 3d. Dentaria laciniata, Lamium amplexicaule, Draba - verna, Poa anua, Alsine media, Houstonia cerulea, Saxifraga - virginiensis. - - 4th. Anemone hepatica, _Hepatica triloba of Pursh_. Flowers - varying from blue to white. Alnus serulata, Carpinus Americanus, - Satyrium repens, root perennial. - - 9th. Collected in flower from the south-west side of the Ohio, - Sanguinaria canadensis, Hydrocotile bipinnata; root small and - round, with small tubers attached to the fibre like radicles, - flowers white. Poa brevi-folia. - - 13th. Glehoma hederacea; this plant covers not only the low - grounds, but the wildest hills, particularly in northern - exposures. Is it native? - - 24th. Pulmonaria Virginica: this is a predominant plant on the - islands, as well as along the shores of the Alleghany on both - sides. Epigaea repens, Phlox divaricata. - - 25th. Corydalis cucullaria, Trillium erectum, flowers varying - from dark purple to white. Anemone thalictroides, Carex - oligocarpa, Gnaphalium plantagineum, Potentilla sarmentosa, - Obolaria virginica, Acer saccharinum, and A. dasycarpum, still - flowering. Also the Celtis occidentalis, Ulmus Americana, and - Planera aquatica, past. - - 27th. Veronica peregrina, and Ranunculus celeratus; both - common in the wildest situations and apparently native. - - 28th. Stellaria pubera, Turritis laevigata, Arabis lyrata, - Viola pubescens, Ranunculus hirsutus, Thalictum dioicum, - Cercis canadensis, Cerastium vulgatum. - - 30th. Dentaria diphylla, Trillium sesile, Mitella diphylla, - Delphinium tricorne, Arabis thaliana, Caulophillum thalictroides. - - _May_ 1st. Carpinus Americanus, Vicia cracca, Ranunculus - abortivus, Saxifraga Pennsylvanica, Uvularia grandiflora, _Ph._ - - 3d. Geranium maculatum. Apple-tree flowering. Veronica - officinalis. _Dr. Baldwin's_ Diary.--JAMES. - - - [018] For Point Pleasant and the battle fought there, - see Thwaites and Kellogg, _Documentary History of Lord - Dunmore's War_ (Madison, Wis., 1905); Croghan's _Journals_, in - our volume i, note 101; and Bradbury's _Travels_, in our - volume v, note 156. Chief Logan was not present at this - battle. The full text of his famous speech is given in - Jefferson's "Notes on Virginia;" Ford, _Writings of Thomas - Jefferson_ (New York, 1894), iii, p. 156; Roosevelt, _Winning - of the West_ (New York, 1889), i, p. 237. It has long ranked - as one of the great masterpieces of Indian oratory; but its - genuineness was attacked by Luther Martin, of Maryland, and - others. A summary of the evidence pro and con is given in - Brantz, _Tah-Gah-Jute; or Logan and Cresap_ (Albany, 1867), - appendix No. 2. It is now generally conceded that it was - delivered by Logan substantially as we have it.--ED. - - - [019] For sketch of Maysville, see Andre Michaux's _Travels_, in - our volume iii, note 23.--ED. - - - [020] Washington, four miles southwest of Maysville, was - founded in 1786, and was an important town in the early days of - Kentucky. It was for some time the seat of Mason County.--ED. - - - [021] For the early history of Cincinnati, see Cuming's _Tour_, - in our volume iv, note 166.--ED. - - - [022] For sketches of Glen and Drake, see Nuttall's _Journal_, - in our volume xiii, note 35.--ED. - - - [023] Drake's Picture of Cincinnati, page 64. To that work, - Cranmer's [Cramer's] "Navigator," published at Pittsburgh in - 1814, and Gilleland's "Ohio and Mississippi Pilot," we refer our - readers for very minute, and in general very accurate, accounts - of the country along the Ohio.--JAMES. - - _Comment by Ed._ This area, known to geologists as the - "Cincinnati anticline," is co-extensive with the fertile blue - grass lands. It consists essentially of an island of Ordovician - (Lower Silurian) limestone, surrounded by the later systems. The - Ordovician system is especially characterized by mollusca of - the cephalopod class, to which _Orthoceras_ belongs, while the - Ammonites do not appear below the Devonian. - - - [024] Cincinnati College, the forerunner of Cincinnati - University, grew out of a school established in 1814 on the - model of the new English system of Lancaster and Bell. The - college was chartered in 1815. Possibly the reference is to the - recently-established medical college, for which see Nuttall's - _Journal_, in our volume xiii, note 35.--ED. - - - [025] Population by census of 1820, 9,642; of 1830, 24,831.--ED. - - - [026] The Cincinnati mounds are now obliterated. A good - description of them, with diagram, is given in _Smithsonian - Contributions to Knowledge_ (Washington, 1852), iii, art. - vii.--ED. - - - [027] Voy. a l' ouest des monts Alleghany, 1804. p. 93.--JAMES. - - _Comment by Ed._ See F. A. Michaux's _Travels_, in our volume - iii, p. 175. - - - [028] Pers. Nar. vol. i. p. 357. Philadelphia Edition.--JAMES. - - - [029] Salt's Abyssinia, p. 49. Amer. Edit.--JAMES. - - - [030] The cotton-wood-tree is of very rapid growth. It - has been ascertained that one individual, in the term of - twenty-one years, attained the height of one hundred and eight - feet, and nine inches, and the diameter of twenty and an half - inches, exclusive of the bark. _Barton's_ Supp. Med. and Phys. - Jour. p. 71.--JAMES. - - - [031] Sir James Edward Smith (1759-1828), founder and - first president of the Linnaean Society (1788).--ED. - - - [032] Charles Schultz, Jr., was the author of _Travels on an - inland voyage through the states of New York, Pennsylvania, - Virginia, Ohio, Kentucky, and Tennessee, and through the - territories of Indiana, Louisiana, Mississippi, and New Orleans; - performed in the years 1807 and 1808_ (New York, 1810).--ED. - - - [033] On Louisville and the Falls of the Ohio, see Croghan's - _Journals_, in our volume i, note 106.--ED. - - - [034] For sketch of Shippingsport, see Cuming's _Tour_, in our - volume iv, note 171.--ED. - - - [035] For the history of the canal at the Falls of the Ohio, see - Nuttall's _Journal_, in our volume xiii, note 40.--ED. - - - [036] On Clarksville see Andre Michaux's _Travels_, in our - volume iii, note 123.--ED. - - - [037] New Albany, founded in 1813, is just below Louisville, in - Floyd County, Indiana.--ED. - - - [038] Corn Island was the site of the first settlement - at Louisville. George Rogers Clark built a fort on the island - in the spring of 1778, to protect his supplies. The twenty - families who had followed him to Kentucky established - themselves at the lower end, where the land was most elevated, - and during the summer raised the crop of corn from which it is - said the island derived its name. It stood just above the - present Louisville-Albany bridge, in the elbow of the stream; - in Clark's time it had an area of at least seven acres, but it - has now been almost entirely obliterated both by the erosion - of the stream and the operations of a neighboring cement mill - which has used the island as a quarry.--ED. - - - [039] Jeffersonville, laid out in 1802, is opposite Louisville, - in Clark County, Indiana.--ED. - - - [040] The same name is applied locally to the hills which extend - nearly fifty miles to the northward of the river.--ED. - - - [041] Volney.--JAMES. - - _Comment by Ed._ Constantin Francois Chasseboeuf Boisgirais, - Comte de Volney, the French traveller and author, member of - the brilliant group which included Holbach, Madame Helvetius, - Voltaire, and the encyclopaedists, the correspondent of Franklin - and the friend of Bonaparte, travelled extensively in the - interior of America during the years 1795 to 1799, and after - his return to France published an account of his observations - under the title, _Tableau du Climat et du Sol des Etats-Unis - d'Amerique_ (Paris, 1803). A translation was published in - Philadelphia the succeeding year. - - - [042] The Indiana coal fields are now known to embrace an area - of about seven thousand square miles, chiefly in the southwest - quarter of the state.--ED. - - - - -{29} CHAPTER II - - The Ohio below the Rapids at Louisville--Ascent of the - Mississippi from the mouth of the Ohio to St. Louis.[043] - - -Our small boat descended over the rapids without injury; and -having taken on board some wood near New Albany, we proceeded on -our voyage, with a pressure of steam equalling one hundred pounds -to the square inch, upon all parts of the engine exposed to its -immediate operation. This enabled us to descend, at the rate of -ten miles per hour. A small island in the Ohio, about twenty-three -miles below the rapids, is called Flint Island, from the great -numbers of fragments of flints, broken arrow points, and various -instruments of stone, heretofore used by the Indians, which are -found there on turning up the soil. This island has probably been -the favourite residence of some tribe, particularly expert in the -manufacture of those rude implements, with which the wants of the -aboriginal Americans were supplied. The stone employed in these -manufactures appears to have been, in most instances, that compact -flint, which occurs in nodular masses, in the secondary limestones. -In one instance we met with a triangular prism, of a very hard and -compact aggregate of felspar, and hornblende, unlike any rock we -have seen in the valley of the Mississippi. This prism was about -five inches long, with faces of about {30} an inch in width, and -was perforated, from end to end, forming a complete tube, with an -orifice about half an inch in diameter, and smoothly polished, -both within and without. We were never able to discover to what use -this implement could have been applied; nor do we recollect to have -met with accounts of any thing analogous to it, except, perhaps, -those "tubes of a very hard stone" mentioned by the Jesuit Venegas, -as used by the natives of California, in their treatment of the -sick.[044] That it may have passed, by means of the intercourse -of various tribes of Indians, from the primitive mountains of -California to the rapids of the Ohio, is not, perhaps, improbable. -Indirect methods of communication may have conveyed the productions -of one part of the continent to another very remote from it. The -savages of the Missouri receive an intoxicating bean from their -neighbours on the south and west; these again must probably procure -it from other tribes inhabiting, or occasionally visiting, the -tropical regions. - -In the Philadelphia museum are many Indian pipes of that red -indurated clay, found only (as far as hitherto known) on the Pipe -Stone branch of the Little Sioux river of the Missouri; one of -these, however, was found on the banks of the Rio de la Plata, in -South America: several were found in the territory now called New -England, and in the north-eastern part of the continent. - -On the 26th we passed the mouth of the Wabash, and arrived at -Shawaneetown,[045] ten miles below. Near the mouth of the Wabash, -an accident happened to the engine, which rendered it necessary -for us to drift down, until we should arrive at some place where -repairs might be made. Some of the gentlemen of the party -determined to go on shore, and walk to Shawaneetown. In swimming -across a creek, {31} three miles above that place, Lieutenant -Graham dropped his rifle in the water, and having spent some time -in attempts to recover it, did not arrive at Shawaneetown until -after the boat had reached that place. - -On the 27th, several of the party went out to hunt in the forests -and swamps, north-west of Shawaneetown. At about four miles' -distance from the Ohio, they arrived at the banks of a small pond, -three miles long, and only three or four hundred yards wide. Here -they killed a turkey; and some small birds. On the bank of the -pond, was found a specimen of the Lake Erie tortoise,[046] -depositing its eggs in the sand, at about twenty yards' distance -from the water. It had made, with its feet, a hole in the sand, -two inches in diameter and four inches in depth, enlarging towards -the bottom to three inches. This species occurs frequently in the -pools and stagnant waters along the Ohio. We first met with it -near the rapids at Louisville. Among other birds, we noticed about -Shawaneetown, the pileated woodpecker, the minute tern, numerous -flocks of the psittacus caroliniensis, two broods of young wood -duck, some gulls, and semipalmated sandpipers. The terns appear to -be attracted hither by great numbers of a species of phryganea, -with which we found the stomachs of some of them filled. The -semipalmated sandpipers were in large flocks, and did not appear -stationary. - -We left Shawaneetown at twelve o'clock on the 28th, and stopped -three miles below, to take in wood; then proceeding forward, at -four P. M. we ran aground on a sand bar, seven miles above the -"Cave Inn," or "House of Nature."[047] After much exertion, by -means of anchors and poles, with the aid of the engine, and all -the men, who were under the necessity of jumping into the river, -we at length {32} succeeded in getting her off, and ran down to -the cave, where we lay by for the night. - -Early the next morning, we went to visit the cave, of the entrance -to which two views were sketched by Mr. Seymour. It is a -perpendicular fissure, extending about one hundred and sixty feet -into the horizontal limestone cliffs, which here form the north -bank of the river. At times of high water, the Ohio flows in, and -fills the cave nearly to its roof. In this cave, it is said, great -numbers of large bones were some time ago found, but we saw no -remains of any thing of this kind. Impressions and casts of the -shells of submarine animals are seen in the rocks, forming the -sides of the cave, as in all the strata of compact limestone, in -this region. The organic remains here, do not appear to be so -numerous as those of the rocks at the falls, and at Cincinnati; -and are much less distinct, and visible in the fracture; indeed -the fracture generally exhibits to the eye no vestige of organic -remains. It is upon the surface only, and more especially in such -parts of it as are in a certain stage of decomposition, that they -are at all to be distinguished. - -As far as we could discover, they consist chiefly of the -caryophyllae, similar to the radiated species, so common at the -falls of Ohio; of the encrinus, but of this our specimens were not -so perfect as to enable us to determine the analogy. Numerous -other remains were exhibited, but not sufficiently characterized -to be referred to their proper places in the system. The top of -the cliff, into which this fissure opens, is said to be the -favourite haunt of great numbers of birds of prey. This is not -improbable, as many hawks and birds of prey always choose high and -inaccessible cliffs to build their nests in. We saw about the tops -of these rocks, only one pair of hawks, which we took to be of the -red-shouldered species, (falco lineatus,) but a heavy rain, which -commenced soon after we had ascended, prevented {33} us from -procuring a specimen. About the cave, we found some fragments of -pottery, arrow points, and other articles of Indian manufacture. - -Near Shawaneetown are extensive salt manufactories, at a place -heretofore called United States' Saline, affording employment and -a source of trade to a part of the inhabitants of that village. -Common salt, with the nitrates of lime, potash, &c. occur in great -plenty, in connexion with the horizontal limestones and sandstones -on the Ohio. Of these we subjoin some account, from the -mineralogical report of Mr. Jessup.[048] - -On the 29th of May we passed the mouths of the Cumberland and -Tennessee, the two largest rivers, tributary to the Ohio. At the -mouth of the Cumberland is a little village called Smithland; -where, for a considerable part of the year, such goods are -deposited as are designed for Nashville and other places on the -Cumberland. - -The Cumberland and Tennessee rivers are, for many miles, nearly -parallel in direction, and at no great distance apart. Between -them are some low sandstone hills; but, we believe, no lofty range -of mountains, as has been sometimes represented. About these -hills, also, in the low ridges north of the Ohio, we found the -sandstone, which appears to be the basis rock, often overlaid with -extensive beds of a pudding-stone, wherein pebbles of white, -yellow, and variously coloured quartz, are united in a cement -highly tinged by oxide of iron; extensive fields of compact -limestone also occur in the same connexion. - -About half way between the mouth of the Cumberland and Tennessee, -near the old deserted settlement originally called Smithland,[049] -are several large catalpa trees. They do not, however, appear to -be native; nor have we here, or elsewhere, been able to discover -any confirmation of the opinion, that this tree is indigenous to -any part of the United States. - -It is here called _petalfra_, which, as well as catalpa, {34} the -received appellation, may be a corruption from Catawba, the name -of the tribe by whom, according to the suggestion of Mr. Nuttall, -the tree may have been introduced. Following the directions of the -Pittsburgh navigator,[050] we kept near the left shore, below the -Cave Inn; by which means we again ran our boat aground, on a -sand-bar, where we spent a considerable part of the night in the -most laborious exertions. These were at length crowned with -success; and having the boat once more afloat, we proceeded with -greater caution. - -On the 30th, we arrived at a point a little above the mouth of -Cash river, where a town has been laid out, called America.[051] It -is on the north bank of the Ohio, about eleven miles from the -Mississippi, and occupies the first heights on the former, secure -from the inundation of both these rivers (if we except a small -area three and a half miles below, where there are three Indian -mounds, situated on a tract containing about half an acre above -high-water mark). The land on both sides of the Ohio, below this -place, is subject to be overflowed to various depths, from six to -fourteen feet in time of floods; and on the south side, the flat -lands extend four or five miles above, separated from the high -country by lakes and marshes. The aspect of the country, in and -about the town, is rolling or moderately hilly, being the -commencement of the high lands between the two rivers above -mentioned; below it, however, the land is flat, having the -character of the low bottoms of the Ohio. The growth is -principally cotton-wood, sycamore, walnut, hickory, maple, oak, -&c. The soil is first-rate, and well suited to the cultivation of -all products common to a climate of 37 deg. N. lat. From the -extensive flat, or bottom, in its neighbourhood, and the heavy -growth of timber which here generally prevails, it is probable -that the place will be unhealthy, till extensive clearings are -made in its vicinity. - -This position may be considered as the head of constant {35} -navigation for the Mississippi. The Mississippi, from New Orleans -to the Ohio, is navigable for boats of the largest size; and -America may be considered as the head of constant as well as heavy -navigation. Ice is seldom to be found in the Mississippi as low -down as the mouth of the Ohio, and never in so large quantities as -to oppose any serious obstruction to the navigation. - -The navigation of the Ohio has a serious impediment about four and -a half miles above the town, occasioned by a limestone bar -extending across the river, called the Grand Chain. This bar is -impassable in the lowest stage of the water, and will not admit -boats of any considerable burden, except in the higher stages. - -The Mississippi has, in like manner, two bars, called the Big and -Little Chain, which appear to be a continuation of the same range -of rocks as that in the Ohio, extending across the point of land -situated between the two rivers. These bars are situated a little -above the Tyawapatia Bottom, about thirty miles above the mouth of -the Ohio, and in low water have but a moderate depth of water -across them; which, added to the rapidity of the current, -occasions a serious obstacle to the navigation. - -Boats suited to the navigation of both rivers above the bars here -specified, should be of inferior size; those for the Mississippi -not exceeding one hundred tons burden, and those for the Ohio from -fifty to seventy-five tons. - -Any position on the Mississippi in the neighbourhood of the Ohio -would be objectionable, for the following reasons:--First, The -rapidity of the current, which renders it difficult to find a safe -and commodious landing, there being no rocky-bound shore within -thirty miles above and a far greater distance below the point. The -Iron Banks,[052] seventeen miles below the mouth of the Ohio, have -been thought by some an eligible position for the extensive -business, {36} which, it is admitted by all, must centre in this -neighbourhood. But at this place there is no safe landing; and -besides, the banks are composed of layers of sand and clay -alternating with each other, of an acclivity nearly perpendicular, -and annually wearing away by the current of the river, which sets -strongly against them. These banks are elevated about one hundred -and thirty feet above the common level of the river, and are -insurmountable, except by a circuitous route, leading from the -river a considerable distance above and below them. - -Second, There are no positions on the Mississippi, except the Iron -and Chalk Banks, for a great distance below the Ohio, secure from -inundation. The bottom directly opposite the mouth of the Ohio, on -the west side of the Mississippi is elevated a little above high -water; but as it is an alluvial shore, having no permanent -foundation, and the banks often falling in, it affords no -conveniences or security as a place of business. - -Third, No places of anchorage for boats of heavy burden are to be -found, except in the main channel of the river, where they would -be exposed to drift-wood, great quantities of which are brought -down in times of freshet; and when borne along with the rapid -current of the river, occasion serious danger to boats lying in -its way. - -The town of America is almost entirely exempt from any of these -objections;--although it has not a rocky foundation, (which may be -said of most of the towns on the Ohio,) the current of the river -is so gentle, that no such guard against the undermining and -wasting away of the banks is required. In case of an excessive -flood, or an unusual quantity of floating ice (which may possibly -be apprehended in remarkably cold seasons), the mouth of Cash -river, five miles below the town, is a harbour in which boats may -lie in perfect security.[053] - -We would not encourage the idea, that the site {37} now fixed upon -as a town is exclusively the point where business is to be done; -but that the town will eventually extend along on that side of the -river about four miles, to the Big Chain above described. - -In view of the great extent of inland navigation centring at this -place, and the incalculable amount of products to be realized, at -no distant period, from the cultivation of the rich vallies and -fertile plains of the west, a great proportion of which must find -a market here, no doubt can be entertained that it will eventually -become a place of as great wealth and importance as almost any in -the United States. - -In the afternoon of the 30th we arrived at the mouth of the Ohio. - -This beautiful river has a course of one thousand and thirty-three -miles, through a country surpassed in fertility of soil by none in -the United States. Except in high floods, its water is transparent, -its current gentle, and nearly uniform. For more than half of its -course its banks are high, and its bed gravelly. With the exception -of about two miles at the rapids, at Louisville, it has sufficient -depth of water, for a part of the year, to float vessels of 300 -tons burthen to Cincinnati. The country which it washes may, with -propriety, be considered under two divisions. The first, extending -from its head at Pittsburgh to the little town of Rockport,[054] -about 150 miles below the falls or rapids at Louisville, is hilly. -This district forms a portion of one of the sides of that great -formation of secondary rocks, which occupies the basin of the -Mississippi and its tributaries. This formation, like others of -the same period, is rough, with small elevations, which are most -considerable on its borders, and diminish in proportion as we -approach nearer its central parts. - -Compact limestone, and sandstone of several varieties, are the -rocks which invariably occur along that portion of the Ohio we -are now considering. Sandstone of a light gray or ashen colour, -of a compact {38} texture, an argillaceous cement, and a slaty or -lamellated structure, is the most abundant, and occupies the lowest -points which we have hitherto been able to examine. This rock -frequently contains alternating beds of coal, bituminous shale, -and its accompanying minerals. The beds of compact limestone, -which occur in this region, usually rest upon the sandstone just -mentioned. Considered as a stratum, its distribution is the -reverse of that of the sandstone. It occupies the central and -least elevated portions of the formation; and on the borders where -the sandstone is most abundant, the limestone is of less extent -and of more uncommon occurrence. These remarks are applicable to -the hilly district on the upper portion of the Ohio river. From -Pittsburgh to Cincinnati, the prospect from the river is that -of hills of moderate elevation, sometimes rocky and abrupt, but -often sufficiently gradual in their ascent to admit of cultivation -to their summits. Their character, as to extent, direction, &c. -seems to be determined by the number, direction, and magnitude of -the streams which traverse them. They are the remains of what was -formerly a continuous and nearly horizontal stratum, with a large -deposit of superincumbent soil, which the flowing of water, during -the lapse of ages, has channelled and excavated to its present -form. These hills diminish in altitude as you approach the falls -from above; there they again rise to a height nearly equal to what -they attain at the head of the river, and from thence gradually -diminish, until they disappear, a little above the confluence of -the Ohio and Green[055] rivers. Here commences the low country, -which extends west to the Mississippi. It is characterized by -the great extent of the river alluvion, the increased width and -diminished velocity of the stream. The river banks are low, but -thickly wooded with sycamore, cotton-wood, river maple, the planera -aquatica, cypress, &c. The river hills, which terminate the -alluvial district, {39} are distant and low; and it often happens -that the surface descends on both sides, from the immediate banks -of the river to these hills. Hence, when the waters of the river -are sufficiently swollen to flow over its banks, they inundate -extensive tracts; from which they cannot return to the channel -of the river, and are left stagnant during the summer months, -poisoning the atmosphere with noxious exhalations. Many of these -inundated tracts have a soil of uncommon fertility, which it is -probable will hereafter be recovered from the dominion of the river -by dikes or levees. - -The beach or sloping part of the immediate bank of the Ohio, -throughout its whole extent, is of rather gradual ascent, and -covered with timber a considerable distance below high-water mark. -The average rapidity of the current of the Ohio is about two and a -half miles per hour, and the descent of its surface nine inches -per mile, as estimated by Dr. Drake of Cincinnati. The annual -inundations happen in the spring. The range between extreme high -and low water, in the upper part of the river, is more than 60 -feet; but below, where it is not confined by high banks, it is -much less. - -About the falls of Ohio, the cane, (myegia macrosperma of Persoon,) -begins to be seen, and increases in quantity thence westward -to the Mississippi. The "Cave Inn Rock," or "House of Nature," -which we have before mentioned, is an immense cavern penetrating -horizontally into a stratum of compact limestone, which forms -the river bank for some distance above Golconda in Illinois. -Its entrance is a large and regular arch, placed immediately on -the brink of the river, and a similar form is preserved in some -degree through its whole extent. The Battery Rock is a high mural -precipice of the same stratum, running in a straight line, and -forming the northern bank of the river which washes its base. The -face of this precipice is smooth and naked, and it is surmounted -{40} by a heavy growth of timber. This limestone is compact, -entirely horizontal in its position, and filled with organic -remains. It is traversed by veins containing sulphuret of lead; -and at several places near Golconda, this is accompanied by fluat -of lime, in beautiful yellow and violet-coloured crystals. Fluat -of lime is also found disseminated in small and irregular masses -throughout the rock. At Golconda, six miles below the cave, a -coarse gray flinty sandstone is found, extending some distance to -the west. This rock forms broad hills on the Kentucky side, between -the Cumberland and Tennessee rivers; where it abounds in iron ore -of several kinds. Perhaps these hills ought to be considered as -a spur from the Cumberland hills. At the mouth of the Tennessee -river, is a locality of the columnar argillaceous oxide of iron, -which rises from the surface in pyramidal and columnar masses, -somewhat resembling the cypress knees. - -An extensive tract of land between the Tennessee and Mississippi -rivers, included in the recent purchase from the Cherokees,[056] is -rocky and broken, abounding in ores of iron and lead, and probably -some other minerals. We have seen a specimen of sulphuret of -antimony, in possession of an inhabitant, who being a sort of -alchymist, greatly delighting in mystery, thought it imprudent to -reveal the secret of its particular locality. It is to be hoped, -future and more minute examinations than we had the opportunity of -making, may hereafter detect valuable mineral depositions in this -tract. - -The confluence of the Ohio and Mississippi, is in latitude 37 deg. -22' 9" north, according to the observations of Mr. Ellicott, and in -longitude 88 deg. 50' 42" west, from Greenwich.[057] The lands about -the junction of these two great rivers are low, consisting of -recent alluvion, and covered with dense forests. At the time of -our journey, the spring floods having subsided in the Ohio, this -quiet and gentle river {41} seemed to be at once swallowed up, and -lost in the rapid and turbulent current of the Mississippi. Floods -of the Mississippi, happening when the Ohio is low, occasion a -reflux of the waters of the latter, perceptible at Fort Massac, -more than thirty miles above. It is also asserted, that the floods -in the Ohio occasion a retardation in the current of the -Mississippi, as far up as the Little Chain, ten miles below Cape -Girardeau.[058] The navigation of the Mississippi above the mouth -of the Ohio, also that of the Ohio, is usually obstructed for a -part of the winter by large masses of floating ice. The boatmen -observe that soon after the ice from the Ohio enters the -Mississippi, it becomes so much heavier by arresting the sands, -always mixed with the waters of that river, that it soon sinks to -the bottom. After ascending the Mississippi about two miles, we -came to an anchor, and went on shore on the eastern side. The -forests here are deep and gloomy, swarming with innumerable -mosquitoes, and the ground overgrown with enormous nettles. There -is no point near the confluence of the Ohio and Mississippi, from -which a distant prospect can be had. Standing in view of the -junction of these magnificent rivers, meeting almost from opposite -extremities of the continent, and each impressed with the peculiar -character of the regions from which it descends, we seem to -imagine ourselves capable of comprehending at one view all that -vast region between the summits of the Alleghanies and of the -Rocky Mountains, and feel a degree of impatience at finding all -our prospects limited by an inconsiderable extent of low muddy -bottom lands, and the unrelieved, unvaried, gloom of the forest. - -Finding it necessary to renew the packing of the piston in the -steam-engine, which operation would require some time, most of the -gentlemen of the {42} party were dispersed on shore in pursuit of -their respective objects, or engaged in hunting. Deer, turkeys, -and beaver are still found in plenty in the low grounds, along -both sides of the Mississippi; but the annoyance of the mosquitoes -and nettles preventing the necessary caution and silence in -approaching the haunts of these animals, our hunting was without -success. - -We were gratified to observe many interesting plants, and among -them several of the beautiful family of the orchidae,[059] -particularly the orchis spectabile, so common in the mountainous -parts of New England. - -The progress of our boat against the heavy current of the -Mississippi, was of necessity somewhat slow. Steam-boats in -ascending are kept as near the shore as the depth of water will -admit; and ours often approached so closely as to give such of the -party as wished, an opportunity to jump on shore. On the first of -June, several gentlemen of the party went on shore, six miles -below the settlement of Tyawapatia bottom, and walked up to that -place through the woods. They passed several Indian encampments, -which appeared to have been recently tenanted. Under one of the -wigwams they saw pieces of honey-comb, and several sharpened -sticks, that had been used to roast meat upon: on a small tree -near by was suspended the lower jaw-bone of a bear. Soon after -leaving these they came to another similar camp, where they found -a Shawanee Indian and his squaw, with four children, the youngest -lashed to a piece of board, and leaned against a tree. - -The Indian had recently killed a deer, which they purchased of him -for one dollar and fifty cents--one-third more than is usually -paid to white hunters. They afterwards met with another -encampment, where were several families. These Indians have very -little acquaintance with the English language, and appeared -reluctant to use the few words they {43} knew. The squaws wore -great numbers of trinkets, such as silver arm-bands and large -earrings. Some of the boys had pieces of lead tied in various -parts of the hair. They were encamped near the Mississippi, for -the purpose of hunting on the islands. Their village is on Apple -Creek, ten miles from Cape Girardeau. - -June 2d. As it was only ten miles to Cape Girardeau, and the -progress of the boat extremely tedious, several of the party, -taking a small supply of provisions, went on shore, intending to -walk to that place. - -Above the settlement of Tyawapatia, and near Cape a la Bruche,[060] -is a ledge of rocks, stretching across the Mississippi, in a -direct line, and in low water forming a serious obstacle to the -navigation. These rocks are of limestone, and mark the commencement -of the hilly country on the Mississippi. Here the landscape begins -to have something of the charm of distant perspective. We seem -released from the imprisonment of the deep monotonous forest, and -can occasionally overlook the broad hills of Apple Creek, and the -Au Vaise,[061] or Muddy river of Illinois, diversified with a few -scattered plantations, and some small natural meadows. - -About five miles above Cape Girardeau we found the steam-boat -Jefferson, destined for the Missouri. She had been detained some -time waiting for castings which were on board the Western -Engineer. Several other steam-boats, with stores for the troops -about to ascend the Missouri, had entered that river, and were -waiting to be overtaken by the Jefferson and the Calhoun, which -last we had left at the rapids of the Ohio. On the 3d of June we -passed that insular rock in the middle of the Mississippi, called -the Grand Tower.[062] It is about one hundred and fifty feet high, -and two hundred and fifty in diameter. Between it and the right -shore is a {44} channel of about one hundred and fifty yards in -width, with a deep and rapid current. - -In the summer of 1673, Father Marquette and M. Joliet descended -the Mississippi, probably as far as the mouth of the Arkansa. -Their narrative contains sufficient evidence that they passed the -mouth of the Missouri, the Grand Tower, the mouth of the Ohio, &c. -As their work may not be easily accessible to many of our readers, -we subjoin, in a note, an interesting passage, in which these -objects are mentioned.[063] - -The strata of sandstone containing the extensive beds of coal -which have been explored, about the Muddy river of Illinois, are -here divided transversely by the bed of the Mississippi. The Grand -Tower, the precipice opposite the mouth of the Obrazo,[064] -containing the singular cavity called the Devil's Oven, the -Cornice Rock, and other remarkable cliffs, are monuments -indicating the great extent to which the Mississippi has -channelled its bed in these strata of horizontal sandstone. - -The Grand Tower, from its form and situation, strongly suggests -the idea of a work of art. It is not impossible that a bridge may -be constructed here, for which this rock shall serve as a pier. -The shores, on both sides, are of substantial and permanent rocks, -which undoubtedly extend across, forming the bed of the river. It -is probable, however, that the ledge of rocks called the Two -Chains, extending down to Cape a la Bruche, presents greater -facilities for the construction of a bridge than this point, as -the high lands there approach nearer the river, and are less -broken than in the neighbourhood of the Grand Tower. The Ohio -would also admit of a bridge at the chains, which appear to be a -continuation of the range of rocks here mentioned, crossing that -river fifteen miles above its confluence with the Mississippi. We -look forward to the time when these great works will be completed. - -{45} Compact and sparry limestones are frequent in this region; but -all the rocks seem to be acted upon with great rapidity by currents -of water. The country on the east side of the Mississippi, back -of Fort Chartres, and about the river St. Mary, is much broken by -sink holes, having the form of a funnel, and occasioned, probably, -by the action of subterraneous streams of water finding their way -through the friable sandstones, which underlay the deep and fertile -soils in those places. We passed in succession the mouths of the -river St. Mary, opposite to which is the fine settlement of the -Bois Broule bottoms; the Ocoa, or Kaskaskia river; the St. Lora, -a handsome stream, from the west; and the Gabaree Creek, on which -stands the old French town of St. Genevieve.[065] The navigation -of the Mississippi, above the mouth of the Ohio, is at all times -difficult. The current is considerably accelerated by the descent -of the river over the rocky traverses which cross its bed. At times -of low water, innumerable sand-bars occur in various parts of the -channel, rendering the navigation extremely precarious. - -A little below the mouth of the Kaskaskia, is a creek called the -Saline, entering on the west side. A grant of a tract of land, one -league square, was here made by the Spanish government, in favour -of a Frenchman named Pegreau, the founder of the deserted town -called New Bourbon.[066] The tract included a valuable brine -spring, near the mouth of the creek. The proprietor built a house -near the bank of the Mississippi, where he resided for some time, -and carried on a manufacture of salt; but having occasion to go to -France, he rented his works to a man, who for want of funds, or -for some other reason, failed to keep them in operation. After the -transfer of Louisiana to the United States' Government, this -grant, among others, became an object of speculation; and -advantage being taken of Pegreau's absence, the worthless tenant -was instigated {46} to prosecute his landlord for breach of -contract, and by a legal process recovered damages to the amount -of nine thousand dollars, for the disbursement of which the -property was sold, and fell into the hands of the present -proprietors. - -At the mouth of the Kaskaskia river, on the east bank of the -Mississippi, a town has been recently commenced, called Portland. -The high lands approach here to the brink of the river, affording -an elevated and advantageous site. The landing is said to be good; -and there is reason to expect that Portland will soon rival the -old town of Kaskaskia, the present seat of a great portion of the -mercantile business in this part of Illinois.[067] - -On the 5th the wind blew from the south-east, and with the aid of -sails, we were enabled to ascend the river with considerable -rapidity. As we were proceeding briskly forward, our boat struck -upon one of those concealed trunks of trees so frequent in the -Mississippi, and soon afterwards we discovered that a leak had -occurred, which made it necessary for us to lie by. By the -constant use of the pumps during the remainder of the day, and the -following night, we were able to prevent the water from gaining -further upon us; and the next day, having discovered the leak, we -raised the stern of the boat, by means of a pair of shears, and -succeeded in repairing the injury. - -On the beach, opposite the place where we lay by for these -repairs, was a large flock of pelicans, which remained in sight -for several hours. We had met with some wild geese; and a swan, -which we saw was unable to fly, having at that time cast its -feathers. The yellow-breasted chat, chuck-wills-widow, the falco -haliatus, the kingfisher, bank swallow, and numerous other birds, -occurred. - -At the mouth of the Kaskaskia river, on the east side of the -Mississippi, commences the celebrated valley called the American -Bottom, extending along {47} the eastern bank of the river last -mentioned to the Piasa hills, four miles above the mouth of the -Missouri. It is several miles in width, and has a soil of -astonishing fertility, consisting of comparatively recent -depositions from the river. It has all the disadvantages usually -attending tracts of recent river alluvion, the most valuable parts -of it being liable to be swept away by the current of the -Mississippi, and its surface descending from the brink of the -river to the stagnant pools and lagoons, at the outskirts of the -valley. But the inexhaustible fertility of its soil makes amends -for the insalubrity of the air, and the inconveniences of a flat -and marshy situation; and this valley is undoubtedly destined to -become one of the most populous parts of America. We were formerly -shown here a field that had been cultivated, without manure, one -hundred years in succession, and which, when we saw it (in August, -1819) was covered with a very luxuriant growth of corn. - -The town of Kaskaskia, the villages of Prairie de Roches, Kahokia, -Prairie du Pont, Harrisonville, and Fort Chartres, are situate in -this tract. Some of them are in a flourishing condition. Fort -Chartres, which was built by the French government, at the expense -of one million and a half of dollars, stood near the bank of the -river, about twenty miles from Kaskaskia. Not long after they were -erected, a part of the works were undermined by the washing of the -river; since which time the whole has been suffered to remain in -ruins, which are now one-fourth of a mile distant from the -river.[068] - -The country west of the Mississippi, opposite the American Bottom, -is of a very different character. The high lands approach the -river, presenting abrupt declivities, prominent points, and in -many places perpendicular precipices from one to two hundred {48} -feet high, frowning over the brink of the river. One of the most -remarkable of these is known by the name of the Cornice Rock. It -bounds a narrow arm of the river, which has generally sufficient -water to admit the passage of boats. The rock extends nearly in a -straight line, having a front of about four hundred yards, the -brow of the precipice at some points impending over the channel -through which boats pass. The rock rises above, to the height of -fifty or sixty feet, smoothly rounded by the attrition of the -water, which never rising to the upper part of the precipice, -leaves that to project in the form of a cornice. Though the lands -on the west side of the Mississippi are less fertile than those of -the American Bottom, they are of great value, and have long been -objects of scandalous speculation. - -Among a variety of stratagems, practised in this part of the -country to obtain titles to lands, was one which will be best -explained by the following anecdote, related to us by a -respectable citizen of St. Genevieve. Preparatory to taking -possession of Louisiana in 1805, the legislature passed a law, -authorising a claim to one section of land, in favour of any -person who should have actually made _improvements_, in any part -of the same, previous to the year 1804. Commissioners were -appointed to settle all claims of this description; more commonly -known by the name of improvement rights. A person, somewhere in -the county of Cape Girardeau, being desirous of establishing a -claim of this kind to a tract of land, adopted the following -method:--The time having expired for the establishment of a right, -agreeably to the spirit of the law, he took with him two witnesses -to the favourite spot, on which he wished to establish his claim, -and in their presence marked two trees, standing on opposite sides -of a spring; one with the figures 1803, the other 1804, and placed -a stalk of growing corn in the spring. He then brought the -witnesses before the commissioners, who upon their {49} -declaration, that they had seen corn growing at the place -specified, in the spring between 1803 and 1804, admitted the claim -of the applicant, and gave him a title to the land. In the old -district of Cape Girardeau, as in other parts of Louisiana, the -difficulty of establishing indisputable titles to the lands, -arising out of the great number of Spanish grants, pre-emption, -and improvement claims, has greatly retarded the settlement of the -country.[069] Establishments were made here more than one hundred -and fifty years since; yet the features of the country are little -changed, retaining the rudeness and gloominess of the original -forest.[070] - -At five o'clock, on the afternoon of the sixth, we passed the -Platteen rock, a perpendicular precipice, not unlike the Cornice -rock, near the mouth of a creek of the same name. Along the base -of this cliff, we found the water three and sometimes four fathoms -deep. In the evening we arrived at Herculaneum, a small village on -the west side of the Mississippi, depending principally upon the -lead mines for its business.[071] - -Here are three shot manufactories, all of them built at the -summits of perpendicular precipices; by which means, the expense -of erecting high towers has been avoided. Thirty or forty miles to -the south-west of Herculaneum, commences the region of the lead -mines, which, though not yet satisfactorily explored, is known to -extend for many miles through the hilly country, at the sources of -the Merameg, the St. Francis, and the other small rivers, rising -in the angle between the Mississippi and Missouri, below the mouth -of the latter river. - -Soon after the cession of Louisiana to the United States, -particular care was taken to have all claims to land investigated -and registered. Some few {50} may have been omitted, which may be -hereafter revived, but these cannot be numerous. In all the recent -sales of public lands in the western states and territories, -liberal reservations have been made for the encouragement of -learning. We subjoin some particulars, extracted from a -communication of the commissioner of public lands. From this -statement, it will be easy to form an idea of the liberal -provision made by government, for the future support of schools -and colleges. It is probable, similar grants will be made to the -Eastern States.[072] - -On the 7th, after taking in wood at Herculaneum, we moved up the -river; but had scarcely passed the mouth of the Merameg,[073] when -we found ourselves unable to stem the heavy current of the -Mississippi, on account of the great quantities of mud that had -accumulated in the boilers, and prevented our raising the -requisite pressure of steam. While we were lying at anchor, to -afford the steam engineer an opportunity to clean the boilers, -some gentlemen of the party returned along shore to the Merameg, a -beautiful river, whose limpid and transparent waters present a -striking contrast to the yellow and turbid Mississippi. They were -fortunate in meeting with many interesting objects, and, among -others, an undescribed mus, which has received, from Mr. Ord, the -name of floridanus.[074] Upon the specimen, which was a male, was -a dilated, glabrous, ventral line, 2-1/4 inches long. This species -is well known in some districts, under the name of large -hairy-tailed rat, and is by no means rare in Florida. It is as -large as the ordinary stature of the Norway rat, and is equally -troublesome. The contents of its stomach were entirely vegetable, -consisting of the green bark of trees, and the young shoots of -plants. Their nests are large, and are composed of a great -quantity of brush. Dr. Baldwin had rarely been able to join in the -excursions on shore. Plants were, however, collected and brought -to him on board the boat, {51} where he spent much of his time in -the examination of such as were interesting or new.[075] - -A few rods above our anchoring ground, were two graves, supposed -to be those of Indians. One of them was quite recent, and both -were covered with heaps of loose stones, probably designed as -monuments, and to protect the graves from the ravages of wolves or -other animals. The eighth of June brought us to the small village -of Vide Poche,[076] and the following day to St. Louis, where our -arrival was noticed by a salute from a six-pounder on the bank of -the river, and the discharge of ordnance on board several of the -steam-boats lying in front of the town. - - -FOOTNOTES: - - [043] Observations were made, at Shippingsport, to ascertain the - rate of going of our chronometer, the latitude of the place, and - for other purposes; according to these, the Falls are in 38 deg. - 15' 23" N.--JAMES. - - _Comment by Ed._ The latitude is 38 deg. 15' 8". - - - [044] Page 108.--JAMES. - - _Comment by Ed._ Miguel Venegas, a native of Mexico, was born - in 1680, joined the Jesuit order in 1700, and after several - years' service as professor of Latin, rhetoric, and theology, - went out as a missionary to the Indians. His chief work was, - _Noticia de la California y su Conquista temporal y espiritual - hasta el tiempo presente_ (Madrid, 3 vols., 1757). Its - importance as a contemporary account of the native tribes and - mission stations of California is attested by the fact that - translations were promptly made into English, French, and - Dutch. The English edition is entitled _Natural and Civil - History of California_ (London, 2 vols., 1759). - - - [045] For historical importance of the Wabash River and origin - of the name, see Croghan's _Journals_, in our volume i, note - 107; for sketch of the site of Shawneetown, see _ibid._, note - 108.--ED. - - - [046] Testudo geographica of Leseuer.--JAMES. - - - [047] Usually called Cave-in-Rock. For additional facts relative - to its history, see Cuming's _Tour_, in our volume iv, note - 180.--ED. - - - [048] _Nitrate of Potash._--This salt occurs in most of the - caves in the western states and territories. It is found in - efflorescences and incrustations frequently combined with - nitrate of lime. Its colour is grayish or yellowish white. The - manufacture of nitre, in the numerous caves in Kentucky, is - conducted as follows: The earths containing the nitrates of lime - and potash are lixiviated; the lixivium is afterwards passed - through the ashes of wood, by the alkali of which the nitrate of - lime is decomposed. If the earths, after having been lixiviated, - are replaced in the caves, they again become impregnated with - the same salts. - - One bushel of earth commonly yields from one to four pounds of - nitre. The process by which nature supplies the consumption of - this important article has not yet been discovered. - - _Muriate of Soda._--In the United States, common salt has been - usually found in solution combined with the sulphates of lime, - magnesia, and soda, and with sulphuretted hydrogen gas. The - springs yielding the greatest quantity of salt, are those of - the Kenhawa, and Little Sandy rivers, the United States' - Salines near Shawaneetown, Illinois, Boon's Saline, near - Franklin, Missouri, and Lockhart's on the Le Mine river. - - The Kenhawa salt-works supply about thirty thousand bushels of - salt per annum. The rocks about these springs belong to the - secondary formation, and are limestone, variegated sandstone, - and bituminous shale: we were informed that two hundred and - fifty gallons of this water yield one bushel of salt. At - the Salines of the Little Sandy, ten thousand bushels are - manufactured yearly. The waters, like those of the Kenhawa, - hold in solution muriate and sulphate of soda, sulphate of - lime, and probably a small portion of sulphate of magnesia. - Limestone and sandstone are the only rocks to be met with in the - neighbourhood. The United States' salines, near Shawaneetown, - produce at present about a hundred and thirty thousand bushels - of salt per annum; they formerly yielded more than two hundred - thousand in the same time. There are now seven furnaces in - operation: the water is procured from three wells, two of which - are rented by Major I. Taylor. At these works the salt water - formerly issued from the earth at the surface. A well of sixteen - feet deep brought the workmen to a spring, which now discharges - sixteen gallons of water per minute. Two hundred and fifty - gallons yield fifty pounds of salt. About one thousand yards - to the east of this well is a basin, or hollow, one hundred - and thirty-five feet in diameter. The soil in and about it is - intimately blended with fragments of earthen ware. - - In the middle of this basin a well has been sunk, which - affords a more concentrated brine than that before mentioned; - one hundred and ten gallons yielding fifty pounds of salt. - - In digging this well, the first fourteen feet was through a - light earth mixed with ashes and fragments of earthen ware: - the remaining fourteen through a bed of clay, deeply coloured - with oxyde of iron, and containing fragments of pottery. The - clay has something the appearance of having been subjected to - the action of fire. At the eastern side of the basin appears - to have been a drain for the purpose of conveying away the - superabundant water. In this drain, about four feet below the - surface of the earth, is a layer of charcoal about six inches - deep. The stones in the vicinity appear as if they had been - burnt. Four miles west of this point, a well has been sunk - sixty feet through the following beds. - - First---- twenty feet of tenacious blue clay, at the bottom of - which they came to a small spring of salt water. - - Second---- another bed of clay, of a similar character, - twenty-five feet thick. - - Third---- a bed of quicksand, about ten feet deep; in which - they met with a large vein of salt water. - - Bones of the mammoth, and other animals, were found both in - the clay and sand. The original reservation at these salines - comprised ninety-two thousand one hundred and sixty acres of - woodland, and was transferred from the United States to the - state of Illinois, at the time of the admission of the latter - into the union. The rents amount to ten thousand dollars per - annum. - - _Nitrate of Lime_ is found in the calcareous caverns of - Kentucky, accompanying nitrate of potash, with which it is - intimately blended in the earth, on the floors of the caves: - it is also sometimes found in delicate accicular crystals, - shooting up from the walls and floors of the caverns.--JAMES. - - - [049] Smithland is now the seat of Livingston County. The - deserted settlement three miles below the mouth of Cumberland - River was laid out about 1800 by one Coxe; upon the failure of - his plans, the site was converted into a farm.--ED. - - - [050] See Cuming's _Tour_, in our volume iv, note 43.--ED. - - - [051] The correct name of this stream is Cache River. The French - explorers applied the term "cache" (hiding-place) to many - streams, probably because of articles hidden there by them. This - particular stream is about thirty miles long, being navigable - for small boats about a third of the distance. - - The town of America was laid off in 1818, with the expectation - that it would attain considerable size. For two or three years - it grew rapidly; then low water uncovered a long bar which - excluded steamers from the landing, whereupon the town declined - and practically disappeared, the site now being occupied by but - one or two small dwellings.--ED. - - - [052] For a description of the Iron Banks, see Nuttall's - _Journal_, in our volume xiii, note 54.--ED. - - - [053] Although the range from extreme high to extreme low water - amounts to sixty feet perpendicular, in many parts of the Ohio, - it does not exceed twenty feet at this place, owing to the width - to which the Ohio spreads in this neighbourhood, when the river - is high. This may be considered a circumstance much in favour - of the place, when compared with the disadvantages most other - positions on the Ohio labour under, from inundation in high - water, and the difficulty of unlading in low.--JAMES. - - - [054] Rockport is the seat of Spencer County, Indiana, one - hundred and forty miles below Louisville, measured on the - river's course.--ED. - - - [055] Green River enters the Ohio from the Kentucky side, - thirty-five miles below Rockport.--ED. - - - [056] On Cherokee purchase, see Cuming's _Tour_, in volume iv, - this series, note 190.--ED. - - - [057] Latitude 36 deg. 59' 47.99"; longitude, 89 deg. 9' 31.2".--ED. - - - [058] Schultz's Travels, vol. 2. p. 92.--JAMES. - - - [059] The cymbidium hiemale of Willdenow, which has been placed - by Mr. Nuttall under the genus corallorhiza of Haller, occurs in - the fertile soils of the Mississippi, with two radical leaves, - as described by the early authors. Mr. N.'s amended description - is therefore only applicable to the plant as it occurs in the - eastern states, where it is commonly found to have but a single - leaf.--JAMES. - - - [060] Tyawapatia (Tywappity, Tiwappaty) Bottom was the - name formerly applied to the flood plain on the Missouri side, - in the present Scott County. It extended from the mouth of the - Ohio to Commerce, near the site of which was the settlement - referred to. Americans began to enter the bottom as early as - 1798, and in 1823 the town of Commerce was laid out on the - site of a trading post already twenty years old. - - The name Cape a la Bruche is probably a corruption of Cape a - la Broche (spit-like). The point was also called Cape La Croix - (The Cross), which name alone survives. It is about six miles - below Cape Girardeau, on the same side of the river.--ED. - - - [061] The name Au Vaise is a corruption of Riviere au - Vase (Muddy River); the present name is Big Muddy. It enters - the Mississippi from the northeast, at the northwest corner of - Union County, Illinois, and boats ascend forty or fifty - miles.--ED. - - - [062] Opposite the town of the same name, in Jackson County, - Illinois.--ED. - - - [063] They left the Illinois about the middle of June. Of - the rocky cliffs below the confluence of that river, Father - Marquette speaks as follows: "Among the rocks I have mentioned, - we found one very high and steep, and saw two monsters painted - upon it, which are so hideous that we were frightened at first - sight, and the boldest savages dare not fix their eyes upon - them. They are drawn as big as a calf, with two horns like a - wild-goat. Their looks are terrible, though their face has - something of human figure in it. Their eyes are red, their - beard is like that of a tiger, and their body is covered with - scales. Their tail is so long that it goes over their heads, - and then turns between their fore-legs under the belly, ending - like a fish-tail. There are but three colours, viz. red, - green, and black; but those monsters are so well drawn that I - cannot believe the savages did it; and the rock whereon they - are painted is so steep that it is a wonder to me how it was - possible to draw those figures: but to know to what purpose - they were made is as great a mystery. Whatever it be, our best - painters would hardly do better. - - "As we fell down the river, following the gentle stream of the - waters, and discoursing upon those monsters, we heard a great - noise of waters, and saw several small pieces of timber, and - small floating islands, which were huddled down the river - _Pekitanoni_. The waters of this stream (the Missouri) are so - muddy, because of the violence of its stream, that it is - impossible to drink of it; and they spoil the clearness of the - Mississippi, and make its navigation very dangerous in this - place. This river runs from the north-west; and I hope to - discover, in following its channel to its source, some other - river that discharges itself into the _Mar Marvejo_, or the - _Caliphornian Gulf_. - - "About twenty leagues lower than the Pekitanoni, we met another - river, called the Ouabouskigon; but before we arrived there, - we passed through a most formidable place to the savages, who - believe that a _manito_ or devil resides in that place, to - deliver such as are so bold as to come near it. This terrible - _manito_ proves to be nothing but some rocks in a turning of - the river, about thirty feet high, against which the stream - runs with great violence." This is probably the Grand Tower. - "The river _Ouabouskigon_ (Ohio) comes from the eastward. The - _Chuoanous_ (Shawneese) inhabit its banks; and are so numerous, - that I have been informed there are thirty-eight villages of - that nation situated on this river."--JAMES. - - _Comment by Ed._ James dates the start too early, for by - Marquette's account, it was near the end of June ("sur la fin - de Juin"); nor is James's version quite accurate. Compare the - French of Marquette's account in _Jesuit Relations_, lix, p. 138. - - - [064] Spelled also Brazos and Brazeau--a Perry County (Missouri) - tributary of the Mississippi.--ED. - - - [065] The Bois Broule (Burnt Wood) Bottoms lie chiefly in Perry - County, Missouri. The tract is about eighteen miles long and - from four to six wide. - - For Kaskaskia River and settlement, see Andre Michaux's - _Travels_, in our volume iii, note 132. - - For Ste. Genevieve, see Cuming's _Tour_, in our volume iv, note - 174.--ED. - - - [066] Among the nobles who fled from France during the - Revolution was the father of Charles Dehault Delassus, last - governor of Upper Louisiana under Spanish domination. The - elder Delassus came to Ste. Genevieve, and was placed in - command of a post established for him on a bluff overlooking - the river, two or three miles below the town; this post was - named New Bourbon (La Nouvelle Bourbon), in honor of the - fallen French dynasty. The town which grew up around it was - still in existence in 1812.--ED. - - - [067] Portland was one of many towns laid out along the - Mississippi by speculators who hoped that important cities - would arise on the sites chosen. This particular venture was - undertaken by a company organized in Cincinnati in 1819; but - inhabitants failed to come, and the buildings erected by the - promoters fell into ruins. The site was near the present town - of Chester; an Illinois state penitentiary now stands on the - spot.--ED. - - - [068] It is stated by Mr. Schultz that Fort Chartres, which - was originally built one-fourth of a mile from the river, was - undermined in 1808. Vol. 2, p. 37.--JAMES. - - _Comment by Ed._ For Kaskaskia, Prairie du Rocher, Cahokia, and - Fort Chartres, see Andre Michaux's _Travels_, in our volume iii, - notes 132, 133, 135, 136. - - Prairie du Pont, one mile south of Cahokia, grew up about - a water-mill built in 1754 on a creek of that name, by - missionaries of St. Sulpice. - - Harrisonville dates from the era of American domination. It - was laid out in 1808, and named for William Henry Harrison, - the governor of Indiana Territory, which then included - Illinois. It was, in early days, the county town. - - - [069] Ample information on the subject of land titles, - is contained in Stoddart's Sketches of Louisiana, pages - 243-267.--JAMES. - - - [070] The statement here is not accurate. Marquette's - descent of the Mississippi was just one hundred and fifty - years earlier, and the French settlements in Illinois date - from the beginning of the eighteenth century; while Ste. - Genevieve, the first in Missouri, was not established before - 1732.--ED. - - - [071] Herculaneum, laid out in 1808, was another of the now - extinct river towns. It was thirty miles below St. Louis, and - was at one time seat of Jefferson County.--ED. - - - [072] A _township_ is a square, whose sides (limited by true - meridians and parallels to the equator) are each 6 miles in - length: area 36 square miles, or _sections_, each containing 640 - acres. Each township contains 23,040 acres. A _quarter-section_ - is a square whose sides (bounded by meridians and parallels), - are each half a mile, and contain 160 acres. The corners of - each section are distinctly marked by the United States' - deputy-surveyors. The _sections_ are numbered from 1 to 36, - beginning at the N. E. corner of the township, and going from - right to left, to the N. W. corner; and then returning from left - to right to the east boundary of the township, and so on. - - The act of February 22. 1817, authorizes the sale, in _half - quarter_ sections, or (80 acres) of the sections 2, 5, 20, 23, - 30, 33, of each township. The subdivision of the quarter - section is made by true meridians. - - The _section_ No. 16. in every township, is by law reserved - for the support of schools; the S. E. corner of that section - is the centre of each township. More than 60 million acres of - United States' land, have already been surveyed:--1/36 of 60 - millions is 1,666,666 acres, reserved by law for the support - of schools. The section No. 16. will unquestionably be - reserved in all future surveys and disposals of public lands. - - For colleges and seminaries of a higher grade, thirteen whole - townships have already been granted by the United States to - Michigan, Ohio, Indiana, &c. Thirteen townships are equal to - 299,520 acres. - - By section 2. of the act of April 18. 1806, relative to - Tennessee, 200,000 acres are in that state reserved for - colleges and academies. - - The reservations for schools, colleges, &c. are-- - - Section No. 16. 1,666,666 - Thirteen townships 299,520 - Reservation in Tennessee 200,000 - --------- - 2,166,186 acres; - - which, at the minimum price established previous to the year - 1820, of two dollars per acre, is $4,332,372. - - The area of the whole state of Ohio (the eldest of the states - north of the Ohio) is about 25 millions of acres; of this - about 14,400 had been surveyed anterior to the late cessions, - which embrace the N. W. part of that state: 1/36 of 14,400,000 - is 400,000. - - The free spirit of Ohio, united with signal industry and - economy, has already given to section 16. in the surveyed - portion of the state, a value of at least four dollars per - acre, or of 1,600,000 dollars. There are instances, in which - section 16. in Ohio, is worth from twenty to thirty dollars per - acre.--_National Intelligencer of November 10. 1819._--JAMES. - - - [073] The Meramec River (the name is a corruption of an Indian - word meaning "Catfish") forms part of the boundary between - Jefferson and St. Louis counties, Missouri. It flows from the - southwest, its chief sources lying in Dent County, and is - navigable for steamboats for almost a hundred miles.--ED. - - - [074] _Genus Mus. L.--M. Floridanus, Ord, Say._ _Body_ robust; - _back_ plumbeous; sides, sacrum, and origin of the tail, - ferrugineous-yellowish; _fur_ plumbeous near its base; all - beneath white; _tail_ hairy, above brown, as long as the body; - _head_ plumbeous, intermixed with gray, gradually attenuated to - the nose; _ears_ large, prominent, patulous, obtusely rounded, - naked or furnished with obsolete sparse hairs behind, and on the - margin within; _eyes_ moderately prominent; _whiskers_, some - black, and some white bristles, elongated, longest surpassing - the tips of the ears, arranged in six longitudinal series, - superior labia, and those of the angles of the mouth, folded - into the mouth, and hairy within; _legs_ subequal, robust; - anterior legs with a few white projecting setae near the foot - behind; _feet_ white; _toes_ annulate beneath, with impressed - lines, intermediate ones equal, exterior ones equal; shorter - thumb minute; _palm_ with five tuberculous prominences, of - which the anterior ones are placed triangularly, and the others - transversely; _nails_ concealed by the hairs; _posterior feet_, - inner toe shortest, 2d, 3d, and 4th subequal, the third slightly - longest, all beneath annulated; _nails_ concealed by the hairs; - _palm_ with six tubercles, of which the three posterior ones - are distant from each other. Entire length, from nose to tip of - tail, sixteen inches nearly; _tail_ seven inches, _ear_ rather - more than 9/10 of an inch long, greatest breadth one inch. From - tip of nose to anterior canthus of the eye, 1/20 inches. Length - of the eye nearly 2/5.--JAMES. - - _Comment by Ed._ George Ord, a Philadelphia scientist and - writer, was known especially for his work in ornithology. He - was at one time a vice president of the American Philosophical - Society, and from 1851-58 was president of the Academy of - Natural Sciences at Philadelphia. - - - [075] Near the mouth of the Merameg were collected the - Rudbeckia _hirta_, and R. purpurea, a small white flowering - species of Houstonia, the Galium tinctorium Smyrnium aureum, a - phlox, a new species of potentilla, a conyza, the trifolium - reflexum, a beautiful aira, the campunula perfoliata, - diospyros virginiana, rhus glabra, and many others. _Dr. - Baldwin's MS. Notes._--JAMES. - - - [076] Vide Poche (Empty Pocket), more properly Carondelet, now - included in St. Louis, was at this time five miles south of the - original city. It is of about the same age.--ED. - - - - -{52} CHAPTER III - - Tumuli and Indian Graves about St. Louis, and on the Merameg-- - Mouth of the Missouri--Charboniere--Journey by land from St. - Charles, to Loutre Island. - - -Saint Louis, formerly called Pain Court,[077] was founded by Pierre -La Clade [Laclede] and his associates in 1764, eighty-four years -after the establishment of Fort Creve-coeur, on the Illinois river. -Until a recent period, it was occupied almost exclusively by people -of French extraction, who maintained a lucrative traffic with the -Indians. The history, and present condition of this important town, -are too well known to be dwelt upon in this place. Its population -has been rapidly augmented within a few years, by the immigration -of numerous families, and its wealth and business extended by the -accession of enterprising merchants and mechanics from the Eastern -States. As the town advances in importance and magnitude, the -manners and customs of the people of the United States, are taking -the place of those of the French and Spaniards, whose numbers are -proportionably diminishing. As this place seems destined to be the -depot for such articles of merchandize, as are to be sent from -New Orleans to the upper rivers, it is unfortunate, that no good -harbour offers for the protection of boats against the impetuosity -of the current, and from the danger occasioned by floating ice. -In this respect, the site of a projected town, a few miles below, -has a decided advantage over Saint Louis, as it possesses a good -harbour. It was selected many years since, by some Canadian -Frenchmen, who formed a settlement there.[078] - -The horizontal strata of limestone which underlay the town of -Saint Louis and the surrounding country, {53} have strongly -attracted the attention of the curious, on account of having been -found, in one or two instances, to contain distinct impressions of -the human foot. There is now in the possession of Mr. Rapp,[079] of -the Society of the Harmonites, a stone, which has upon its surface -marks that appear to have been formed by the naked feet of some -human being, who was standing upon it while in a plastic state; -also an irregular line, apparently traced by a stick or wand, -held in the hand of the same person. This stone was taken from the -slope of the immediate bank of the Mississippi below the range of -the periodical floods. To us there seems nothing inexplicable or -difficult to understand in its appearance. - -Nothing is more probable, than that impressions of human feet made -upon that thin stratum of mud, which was deposited on the shelvings -of the rocks, and left naked by the retiring of the waters, may, -by the induration of the mud, have been preserved, and at length -have acquired the appearance of an impression made immediately -upon the limestone. This supposition will be somewhat confirmed, -if we examine the mud and slime deposited by the water of the -Mississippi, which will be found to consist of such an intimate -mixture of clay and lime, as under favourable circumstances would -very readily become indurated. We are not confident that the -impressions above mentioned have originated in the manner here -supposed, but we cannot by any means adopt the opinion of some, who -have considered them as contemporaneous to those casts of submarine -animals, which occupy so great a part of the body of the limestone. -We have no hesitation in saying, that whatever those impressions -maybe, if they were produced, as they appear to have been by the -agency of human feet, they belong to a period far more recent, than -that of the deposition of the limestone on whose surface they are -found. - -The country about St. Louis, like that in the rear {54} of Fort -Chartres, and indeed like the horizontal limestone country -generally, abounds in sink holes sometimes of great depth. These -are very numerous, from five to seven miles back of the town. -They are in the form of vast funnels, having at the surface a -diameter of from twenty to fifty yards. Mr. Say descended into one -of these, for the purpose of ascertaining the medium temperature -below the surface of the earth. This sink opens at the bottom of a -deep ravine. It has two apertures near each other, through which -water is admitted, and each large enough to afford passage to the -body of a man. Within are two chambers from six to twelve feet in -breadth, and thirty-five feet long. At the bottom of the second -chamber is a pool of water rather difficult of access. In this -apartment the mercury stood at 60 deg. fah.: in a shady part of the -ravine about twenty-five feet below the general surface at 75 deg. -The grassy plains to the west of St. Louis are ornamented with -many beautifully flowering herbaceous plants. Among those -collected there, Dr. Baldwin observed the aristolochia Sipho, -cypripedium spectabile,[080] lilium catesbeiana, bartsia coccinea, -triosteum perfoliatum, cistus canadensis, clematis viorna, and the -tradescantia virginica. The borders of this plain begin to be -overrun with a humble growth of black jack and the witch -hazel,[081] it abounds in rivulets, and some excellent springs of -water, near one of which was found a new and beautiful species of -viburnum. On the western borders of this prairie are some fine -farms. It is here that Mr. John Bradbury,[082] so long and so -advantageously known as a botanist, and by his travels into the -interior of America, is preparing to erect his habitation. This -amiable gentleman lost no opportunity during our stay at St. Louis -to make our residence there agreeable to us. Near the site -selected for his house is a mineral spring, whose {55} waters are -strongly impregnated with sulphuretted hydrogen gas. Cattle and -horses, which range here throughout the season, prefer the waters -of this spring to those of the creek in whose bed it rises, and -may be seen daily coming in great numbers, from distant parts of -the prairie, to drink of it. - -Tumuli, and other remains of the labours of nations of Indians -that inhabited this region many ages since, are remarkably -numerous about St. Louis. Those tumuli immediately northward of -the town, and within a short distance of it, are twenty-seven in -number, of various forms and magnitudes, arranged nearly in a line -from north to south. The common form is an oblong square, and they -all stand on the second bank of the river. The statement given -below of their forms, magnitudes, and relative positions, is the -result of actual admeasurement taken with care, and with as much -accuracy as their present indefinite boundaries, together with the -dense growth of underwood, covering their surface, and tending to -beguile and obstruct the vision of the observer, will admit. - -It seems probable these piles of earth were raised as cemeteries, -or they may have supported altars for religious ceremonies. We -cannot conceive any useful purpose to which they can have been -applicable in war, unless as elevated stations from which to -observe the motions of an approaching enemy; but for this purpose -a single mound would have been sufficient, and the place chosen -would probably have been different. - -Nothing like a ditch, or an embankment, is to be seen about any -part of these works.[083] - -Indian graves are extremely numerous about St. Louis, though none -are found in the immediate vicinity of the town: they are most -frequent on the hills about the Merameg and on the north side of -the Missouri. On the 12th June, Mr. Say and Mr. Peale, accompanied -by one man, descended the Mississippi,{56} in a small boat to the -mouth of the Merameg, and ascended the latter river about fifteen -miles, to a place where great numbers of graves have been -explored, and have been represented to contain the bones of a -diminutive race of men. Most of these graves are found near the -bank of the Merameg. They do not rise above the general surface, -but their presence is ascertained by the vertical stones which -enclose them, and project a little at either end of the grave. -When the included earth, and the numerous horizontal flat stones -are removed, we find the sides neatly constructed of long flat -stones, vertically implanted and adapted to each other, edge to -edge, so as to form a continuous wall. The graves are usually -three or four feet, though sometimes six feet in length. The bones -they contained appeared to have been deposited after having been -separated from the flesh, and from each other, according to the -custom of some tribes of Indians at the present day. - -In the first grave opened by Mr. Say were found the fragments of -an earthen pot, and the bones of an infantine skull; the second -contained what appeared to be the remains of a middle aged man, of -the ordinary stature, laid at full length; the bones much -confused and broken. An inhabitant residing here informed them, -that many similar graves had been found along the summits of most -of the neighbouring hills. In one of these he had found two pieces -of earthenware, one having nearly the form of a porter-bottle; the -other with a wide mouth; but this grave contained no bones. After -spending a night at this place, they crossed the river to the town -of Lilliput, (one of the projected towns here has received this -name,) the place so often mentioned as the locality of the graves -of a pigmy race. Appearances here are in general similar to those -already described. One head that had been dug up was that of an -old person, in whom the teeth had been lost, and the alveolae {57} -obliterated, leaving the sharp edge of the jaw-bone. From this the -neighbouring settlers had inferred the existence of a race of men -without teeth, having their jaws like those of the turtle. Having -satisfied themselves that all the bones found here were those of -men of the common size, Mr. Say and Mr. Peale "sold their skiff, -shouldered their guns, bones, spade, &c. and bent their weary -steps towards St. Louis, (distant sixteen miles,) where they -arrived at eleven o'clock P. M., having had ample time, by the -way, to indulge sundry reflections on that quality of the mind, -either imbibed in the nursery or generated by evil communications, -which incites to the love of the marvellous, and, by hyperbole, -casts the veil of falsehood over the charming features of simple -nature." - -These graves evidently contain the relics of a more modern people -than those who erected the mounds. - -On the summit of one of the large hillocks, near St. Louis, (No. -27. described in note 83) are several of these graves: we opened -five of them, but in one only were we fortunate in finding any -thing interesting, and all that this contained was a solitary -tooth of a species of rat, together with the vertebrae and ribs of -a serpent of moderate size, and in good preservation; but whether -the animal had been buried by the natives, or had perished there, -after having found admittance through some hole, we could not -determine. If they were buried by the Indians, they are probably -the bones of a species of crotalus, as it is known that many -Indians of the present day have a sort of veneration for animals -of that genus. The circumstance of the discovery of these bones -renders it somewhat probable, that rattlesnakes were formerly -worshipped by the natives of America, and their remains, like -those of the Ibis of Egypt, religiously entombed after death. - -Whilst we were at Cincinnati, Dr. Drake exhibited {58} to us, in -his cabinet of natural history, two large marine shells, that had -been dug out of ancient Indian tumuli in that vicinity. These -shells were each cut longitudinally, and the larger half of each -only remained. From this circumstance it seems probable that they -had been used by the aborigines as drinking cups; or, consecrated -to superstition, they may have been regarded as sacred utensils, -and either used in connection with the rites of sacrifice, or in -making libations to their deities; they may, however, like the -cymbium of the Archipelago, have served a more useful and salutary -purpose in bathing. - -One of these specimens seems to be a _Cassis cornutus_, of -authors, or great conch shell, though it is proper to observe, -that of the three revolving bands of tubercles, characteristic of -that species, the inferior one in this specimen is double. In -length it is about nine inches and a quarter, and in breadth seven -inches. - -The other specimen is a heterostrophe shell of the genus _Fulgur_ -of Montfort; and, as far as we can judge, in every respect the -same with those which are, at the present day, found on the coast -of Georgia and East Florida, known to naturalists under the name -of _F. perversus_, though it is certainly much larger than any of -the recent specimens we have seen; its length being nine inches, -and breadth six and a half. - -Several different countries have been mentioned by authors as the -habitation of the _cornutus_; according to Rumphius, it inhabits -Amboyna, the straits of Malacca, and the shores of the island of -Boeton; Humphreys says it is brought from the East Indies and -China; Linnaeus believed it to inhabit the coasts of America; but -Bruguiere, a more recent author, informs us that Linnaeus was -probably mistaken in the habitation of this shell, and states it -to be a native of the Asiatic ocean. - -The _cornutus_ becomes of some importance in the question relative -to the Asiatic origin of the American {59} Indians. All the -authorities to which we have been able to refer, correspond in -assigning the shores of Asia, or those of the islands which lie -near that continent, as the native territory of this great species -of conch, with the sole exception of Linnaeus; but as no other -author has discovered it on the coasts of this continent, we must -believe with Bruguiere, that it is only to be found in the Asiatic -ocean. - -The circumstance then of this shell being discovered in one of the -ancient Indian tumuli, affords, at least, an evidence that an -intercourse formerly existed between the Indians of North America -and those of Asia; and leads us to believe that even a limited -commerce was carried on between them, as it undoubtedly was with -the Atlantic coast, from which the Fulgur was obtained. - -But although this isolated fact does not yield a positive proof of -the long asserted migration of the ancestors of the present race -of American Indians from Asia to this country, yet, when taken in -combination with other evidence, which has been collected by -various authors, with so much industry, it will be regarded as -highly corroborative of that popular belief.[084] - -In the prairies of Illinois, opposite St. Louis, are numbers of -large mounds. We counted seventy-five in the course of a walk of -about five miles, which brought us to the hill a few years since -occupied by the monks of La Trappe.[085] This enormous mound lies -nearly from north to south, but it is so overgrown with bushes and -weeds, interlaced with briers and vines, that we were unable to -obtain an accurate account of its dimensions. - -The survey of these productions of human industry, these monuments -without inscription, commemorating the existence of a people once -numerous and powerful, but no longer known or remembered, never -fails, though often repeated, to produce an impression of sadness. -As we stand upon these {60} mouldering piles, many of them now -nearly obliterated, we cannot but compare their aspect of decay -with the freshness of the wide field of nature, which we see -reviving around us; their insignificance, with the majestic and -imperishable features of the landscape. We feel the insignificance -and the want of permanence in every thing human; we are reminded -of what has been so often said of the pyramids of Egypt, and may -with equal propriety be applied to all the works of men, "these -monuments must perish, but the grass that grows between their -disjointed fragments shall be renewed from year to year."[086] - -June 21st. After completing our arrangements at St. Louis, we left -that place at noon, and at 10 o'clock on the following day, -entered the mouth of the Missouri. From St. Louis upward to the -Missouri, the water of the Mississippi, for a part of the year, is -observed to be clear and of a greenish colour on the Illinois -side, while it is turbid and yellow along the western bank. But at -the time of our ascent every part of the Mississippi appeared -equally turbid, its waters soon becoming blended with the heavy -flood of the Missouri. - -The Missouri being now swollen by the spring floods, which had -subsided in the Mississippi, entered that river with such -impetuosity, as apparently to displace almost the whole body of -the waters in its channel. We had occasion to observe that the -water of the Missouri passes under that of the Mississippi, rising -and becoming mingled with it on the opposite shore, so that a -portion of the clear, green waters of the latter river run for -some distance in the middle of the channel, and along the surface -of the Missouri waters, rendered perhaps specifically heavier by -the great quantities of earthy matter mingled with them. The -waters of the Missouri are so charged with mud and sand as to be -absolutely opake, and of a clay {61} colour; while those of the -Mississippi being comparatively clear, and having a somewhat -olivaceous tint, afford an opportunity of tracing their respective -courses, after their junction in the same channel. At some stages -of water they run side by side, and in a great measure unmingled -as far as Herculaneum, forty-eight miles below their confluence. - -We had the pleasure to find, notwithstanding the furnace was -supplied with wood of an indifferent quality, that the force of -our steam-engine was sufficient to propel the boat against the -current of the Missouri, without recourse to the aid of the -_cordelle_,[087] which we had expected to find necessary. - -We were somewhat surprised to see here a flock of black-headed -terns. It is remarkable that these birds, whose ordinary range is -in the immediate vicinity of the sea-coast, should ascend this -river to so great a distance. They are not seen on the Delaware as -high as Philadelphia, unless driven up by storms. - -In ascending from the mouth of the Missouri to Bellefontain, a -distance of four miles, our boat grounded twice on the point of the -same sand-bar, and considerable time was consumed in efforts to -get her afloat. A military post was established at Bellefontain, -under the direction of the government of the United States, by -General Wilkinson, in 1803; but the soil on which his works were -erected has disappeared, the place being now occupied by the -bed of the river. A few fruit trees only, which stood in the end -of his garden, are yet standing, but are now on the brink of the -river. The first bank is here ten or twelve feet high, rising -perpendicularly from the water. Near its base are the trunks of -several trees with one end imbedded, and the other projecting -horizontally over the surface of the water, affording an evidence -of the recent deposition of the soil of the low plains, and -an admonition of the uncertainty of tenure, on the first bank -of the river. One of these projecting trunks is still in good -preservation. It is {62} about three feet in diameter, and from -its direction, must pass immediately under the roots of two -large trees, now occupying the surface of the soil.[088] Similar -appearances are frequent along the Mississippi and Missouri, and -furnish abundant evidence that these rivers are constantly changing -their bed, and, from the great rapidity of the stream, as well as -from the appearances presented, we must suppose these changes are -not very slowly produced; but their range is confined to the valley -within the second banks, which are here raised about seventy feet. -On this second bank, in the rear of the site of the former works, -the buildings belonging to the present military establishment have -been erected. They were commenced in 1810. The houses are of one -story, constructed of logs, based upon masonry, and united in the -form of a hollow square. At the foot of the second bank rises a -fine spring of water, which has given name to the place. Cold Water -creek, a very small stream not navigable, discharges itself a few -hundred yards above; in times of high water its mouth might afford -harbour to small boats. Before the recent change in the bed of the -Missouri, this creek entered higher up than at present, and then -afforded a good harbour for boats of all sizes. The sixth regiment -were encamped here at the time of our arrival, waiting for the -contractor's steam-boats, three of which we had passed at the mouth -of the river.[089] - -Here we found it necessary to adjust a tube to the boilers of our -steam-engine, in order to form a passage, through which the mud -might be blown out: the method heretofore adopted, of taking off -one end for the purpose of admitting a man to clean them, proving -too tedious when it was found necessary to repeat the operation -daily. The expedient of the tube succeeded to our entire -satisfaction. - -Dr. Baldwin found here a plant, which he considered as forming a -new genus, approaching astragalus; {63} also the new species of -rose, pointed out by Mr. Bradbury, and by him called Rosa -mutabilis. This last is a very beautiful species, rising sometimes -to the height of eight or ten feet. The linden tree[090] attains -great magnitude in the low grounds of the Missouri; its flowers -were now fully expanded. - -In ascending from Bellefontain to Charboniere, where we came to an -anchor, on the evening of the 24th, we were opposed by a very -strong current, and much impeded by sand-bars. On the upper ends -of these sand-bars are many large rafts of drift wood; these are -also frequent along the right hand shore. In several places we -observed portions of the bank in the act of falling or sliding -into the river. By this operation, numerous trees, commonly -cotton-woods and willows, are overturned into the water. - -The forests, on the low grounds immediately in the vicinity of the -Missouri, are remarkably dense; but in many instances, the young -willows and poplars (which are the first and almost the only trees -that spring up on the lands left naked by the river) have not -attained half their ordinary dimensions, before, by another change -in the direction of the current, they are undermined, and -precipitated down, to be borne away by the river. The growth of -the cotton-tree is very rapid, that of the salix angustata, the -most common of the willows found here, is more tardy, as it never -attains to great size. The seeds of both these trees are produced -in the greatest profusion, and ripened early in the summer, and -being furnished by nature with an apparatus to ensure their wide -dissemination, they have extended themselves and taken root in the -fertile lands along all the ramifications of the Mississippi, -prevailing almost to the exclusion of other trees. - -{64} Charboniere[091] is on the right bank of the Missouri. This -name was given it by the boatmen and the earliest settlers, on -account of several narrow beds of coal, which appear a few feet -from the water's edge, at the base of a high cliff of soft -sandstone. The smell of sulphur is very perceptible along the bank -of the river, occasioned doubtless by the decomposition of -pyrites, in the exposed parts of the coal beds. Some small masses -of sulphate of lime also occur, and have probably derived their -origin from the same source. - -At St. Charles we were joined by Maj. O'Fallon, agent for Indian -affairs in Missouri, and his interpreter, Mr. John Dougherty, who -had travelled by land from St. Louis.[092] When Lewis and Clark -ascended the Missouri, the town of St. Charles was said to contain -one hundred houses, the inhabitants deriving their support -principally from the Indian trade. This source having in a great -measure failed, on account of the disappearance of the aborigines, -before the rapid advances of the white population, the town -remained in a somewhat declining condition for several years; but -as the surrounding country was soon occupied by an agricultural -population, a more permanent though less lucrative exchange is -taking the place of the Indian trade. Accordingly within two or -three years, many substantial brick buildings had been added, and -several were now in progress: we could enumerate, however, only -about one hundred houses. There are two brick kilns, a tanyard, -and several stores.[093] - -A mile or two below St. Charles, are many trunks of trees -projecting from the bank, like those mentioned at Bellefontain. In -the face of the banks are usually great numbers of the holes made -by the bank-swallow for its nest, and the birds themselves are -frequently seen. - -At St. Charles, arrangements were made for the purpose of -transporting baggage for such of the gentlemen {65} of the party -as should choose to ascend the Missouri by land, that they might -have the better opportunities for investigating the natural -history of the country. Messrs. Say, Jessup, Peale, and Seymour, -having provided themselves with a horse and pack-saddle, on which -they fastened their blankets, a tent, and some provisions, -accompanied by one man, left St. Charles at 7 o'clock on the -morning of the 26th, intending to keep nearly an equal pace with -the steam-boat, in order to rejoin it as occasion might require. -Dr. Baldwin, still confined by debility and lameness, was -compelled to forego the pleasure of accompanying them. - -The Western Engineer proceeded on her voyage, soon after the -departure of Mr. Say and his detachment. Having grounded several -times in the course of the day, and contending all the way against -a heavy current, she proceeded but a few miles. We passed some -rocky cliffs; but in general the immediate banks of the river -presented the same appearance as below, consisting of a recent -alluvium. After we had anchored at evening, Dr. Baldwin was able -to walk a short distance on shore, but returned much fatigued by -his exertions.[094] - -On the morning of the 27th, after having taken in a small supply -of indifferent fuel, we crossed over to the right-hand side of the -river, and took on board one of the party, who had left the boat -at an early hour, to visit a friend residing a short distance from -the river. At evening we came to anchor half a mile below Point -Labidee,[095] a high bluff, where observations for latitude were -taken. Here we were detained a day making some necessary repairs. - -A fine field of wheat, which appeared to be ripe, extended down to -the brink of the river opposite the spot where we lay. This -belonged to the plantation of a farmer, recently from Virginia. -From him we obtained a plentiful supply of milk, and some bacon -hams. A portion of the bank had lately fallen into {66} the river, -and with it a part of the wheat field, and the dwelling house and -other buildings seemed destined soon to follow. - -The shore here was lined with the common elder, (sambucus -canadensis) in full bloom, and the cleared fields were yellow -with the flowers of the common mullein. This plant, supposed to -have been originally introduced from Europe, follows closely the -footsteps of the whites. The liatris pycnostachia, here called -"pine of the prairies," which was now in full bloom, has a -roundish tuberous root, of a warm somewhat balsamic taste, and is -used by the Indians and others for the cure of gonnorrhoea. - -The Indian interpreter, Mr. Dougherty, also showed us some -branches of a shrub, which he said was much used among the natives -in the cure of lues venerea. They make a decoction of the root, -which they continue to drink for some time. It is called "blue -wood" by the French, and is the symphoria racemosa of Pursh, -common to the maritime states, the banks of the St. Lawrence, and -the Missouri. It is here rather taller, and the branches less -flexuous than in the eastern states.[096] - -Without meeting any remarkable occurrences, we moved on from day -to day, encountering numerous obstacles in the navigation of the -river, and being occasionally delayed by the failure of some part -of the steam-engine, till on the 2d of July, we arrived at Loutre -Island, where we found Mr. Say and his companions. - -After leaving the steam-boat at St. Charles, on the 25th of June, -this party had travelled over a somewhat hilly country, covered -with open oak woods for about ten miles, to a small creek, called -the Darden,[097] entering the Mississippi a few miles above the -Illinois. This stream they crossed three miles from the Missouri, -having in their walk suffered greatly {67} from thirst. At -evening they tied their pack-horse to a bush; and as they -returned, after being absent a few minutes for water, the animal -took fright, and breaking loose, disencumbered himself of his -pack, and set off on a gallop to return to St. Charles; and it was -not without great exertion that he was overtaken and brought back. -They then pitched their tent, and were so fortunate as to find a -house at the distance of half a mile. This belonged to a family -from Carolina, and exhibited great appearance of neatness and -comfort, but the owner was found particularly deficient in -hospitality. He refused to sell or to give any refreshments for -the use of the party, and even granted them some water with -apparent reluctance, marching haughtily about his piazza, while -some person was annoying his family by playing wretchedly on a -flute. Mr. Say and the gentlemen of his party had on the fatigue -dress of common soldiers, to which they probably owed the coldness -of their reception. We are, however, glad to be able, from much -experience, to say that there are few houses in the lately settled -parts of the United States, where common soldiers would have met -such a reception as was accorded by this Mr. N. to the gentlemen -of the party. Want of hospitality is rarely the fault of the -inhabitants of the remote settlements. Being refused refreshments, -they returned to their camp, and with the addition of a hawk which -they had killed, made a supper from the contents of their pack. - -On the 27th they crossed the Perogue,[098] about nineteen miles -from St. Charles; and after a fatiguing march of several miles, -were entertained at the house of a very worthy man, who supplied -them with whatever his place afforded. From too long fasting, and -from the effect of exposure and fatigue, Mr. Say and others became -somewhat unwell; and on their account, the party remained at the -house of their friendly host till evening, when they walked four -{68} miles to a place called Fort Kennedy. They purchased a ham, -and a loaf of corn bread of Mr. Kennedy, paying ten cents per -pound for the ham, and twenty-five cents for all the bread, milk, -and corn, consumed during their stay.[099] - -The next morning, having travelled about seven miles, they halted -for breakfast; and having fettered their horse, dismissed him to -feed; but when sought for the purpose of continuing their journey, -he could not be found. Two travellers at length arrived, and -informed them that the horse had been seen at about six miles' -distance, on the way towards St. Charles: a horse was therefore -hired, and a person returned in pursuit; but he was not to be -found, having proceeded on his journey previously to the arrival -of the messenger. - -The prairie flies (a species of tabanus,) are exceedingly -troublesome to horses and cattle, insomuch that people who cross -these grassy plains usually travel very early in the morning, and -again at evening, resting greater part of the day; some, indeed, -journey only by night. If they travel at all in the day, they have -the precaution to defend the horse, by a covering thrown loosely -over him. The tabani appear about the 10th of June, and are seen -in immense numbers, until about the 10th of August, when they -disappear. Near the farm houses we observed, that cattle, when -attacked by them, ran violently among the bushes, to rid -themselves of their persecutors.--Mosquitoes were not numerous. - -As they were fearful of being unable to overtake the steam-boat on -the Missouri, if they made a longer delay to prosecute the search -for their horse, it was determined to abandon him altogether, -rather than return to St. Charles, whither he had doubtless gone; -accordingly, on the 29th of June, they made a division of their -baggage, and each one shouldering his respective portion, -proceeded towards the margin of Loutre Prairie. When they arrived -here, they determined {69} to take the most direct route towards -the Missouri, as it seemed folly for them to attempt, in the -drought and heat, which then prevailed, to cross the extensive -plains of Loutre and the Grand Prairie with their heavy burthens. -They therefore followed a path leading nearly south, along a naked -ridge; where they travelled twelve miles, without finding water, -and arrived at Loutre Island in the evening. They were all the day -tormented with excessive thirst; and being unaccustomed to -travelling on foot, they were much fatigued, and several became -lame. The soil of the extensive prairies which they passed was not -very good; but mixed at the surface with so much vegetable matter, -accumulated by the successive growth and decomposition of the -yearly products, as to give it the aspect of fertility.[100] - -On the south side of Loutre Prairie a well has been sunk -sixty-five feet, without obtaining water; on the north water is -readily found, by digging to a moderate depth. Loutre Prairie is -twenty-three, and Grand Prairie is twenty-five miles in length: on -the borders of each are some scattering settlements. - -Near Loutre Island are several forts, as they are called by the -inhabitants, built by the settlers during the late war, and -designed to afford protection against the attacks of the -aborigines, chiefly the Kickapoos, and Saukees, who were most -feared in this quarter. They are simply strong log-houses, with a -projecting upper story, and with loop-holes for musketry. - -It was within a few miles of this place, that a company of mounted -rangers, commanded by Captain Calloway, were attacked by the -Indians. The assault commenced as the rangers were entering a -narrow defile, near the confluence of the Prairie Forks of Loutre -Creek. Several men were killed at the first fire, and Captain -Calloway received in his body a ball that had passed through his -watch. So furious was the onset, that there was no time for -reloading their pieces after they had discharged them. {70} -Captain Calloway threw his gun into the creek, that it might not -add to the booty of the Indians; and though mortally wounded, drew -his knife, and killed two of the assailants; but seeing no -prospect of success he ordered a retreat, hoping thereby to save -the lives of some of his men. He was the last to leave the ground; -when springing into the creek he received a shot in his head, and -expired immediately.[101] - -Loutre Island is something more than nine miles long, and about -one mile wide, and is the residence of several families. Between -it and the main land is an isthmus, which is left naked at times -of low water. Loutre Creek enters at the lower end of the island. -It is not navigable. Mr. Talbot, formerly from Kentucky, has been -resident here for nine years. His farm is in a high state of -cultivation, and furnishes abundant supplies of poultry, eggs, -potatoes, and the numerous products of the kitchen garden, of -which he sent a handsome present on board our boat. He informed us -that peach-trees succeed well in the most fertile parts of the -island.[102] - -The first dwellings constructed by the white settlers are nearly -similar in every part of the United States. Superior wealth and -industry are indicated by the number and magnitude of corn-cribs, -smoke-houses, and similar appurtenances; but on the Missouri, we -rarely meet with any thing occupying the place of the barn in the -northern states. The dwellings of people who have emigrated from -Virginia, or any of the more southern states, have usually the -form of double cabins, or two distinct houses, each containing a -single room, and connected to each other by a roof; the -intermediate space, which is often equal in area to one of the -cabins, being left open at the sides, and having the naked earth -for a floor, affords a cool and airy retreat, where the family -will usually be found in the heat of the day. The roof is composed -of from three to five logs, laid longitudinally, {71} and -extending from end to end of the building; on these are laid the -shingles, four or five feet in length; over these are three or -four heavy logs, called weight poles, secured at their ends by -withes, and by their weight supplying the place of nails. - -They have corn-mills, consisting of a large horizontal wooden -wheel, moved by a horse, and having a band passed round its -periphery to communicate motion to the stone. These are called -band-mills, and are the most simple and economical of those in -which the power of horses is employed. The solitary planter, who -has chosen his place remote from the habitation of any other -family, has sometimes a mill of a more primitive character, called -a hand-mill, probably differing little from those used among the -ancient Egyptians. It consists of two stones; and while one person -causes the uppermost to revolve horizontally upon the disk of the -other, a second, who is usually a child or a woman, introduces the -corn a few grains at a time, through a perforation in the upper -stone. Some are content with the still ruder apparatus, consisting -of an excavation in the top of a stump; into which the corn is -thrown, and brayed with a pestle. This is the method in use among -many of the agricultural Indians. - -A large species of lampyris is common on the lower part of the -Missouri. It is readily distinguished from the smaller species, -the common fire-fly, by its mode of coruscating. It emits from -three to seven or eight flashes, in rapid succession, then ceases; -but shortly after renews its brilliancy. This species appears -early in May. We saw many of them in returning by night from the -Merameg to St. Louis; but before our arrival at Loutre Island they -had disappeared, and were succeeded by great numbers of the -lampyris pyralis, whose coruscations are inferior in quantity of -light, and appear singly. - -The black walnut attains, in the Missouri bottoms, {72} its -greatest magnitude. Of one, which grew near Loutre Island, there -had been made two hundred fence-rails, eleven feet in length, and -from four to six inches in thickness. A cotton-tree, in the same -neighbourhood, produced thirty thousand shingles, as we were -informed by a credible witness. - - -FOOTNOTES: - - [077] The name Pain Court (Short of Bread), and the similar - appellations of Carondelet (_Vide Poche_--Empty Pocket), - and of Ste. Genevieve (_Misere_--Poverty), are said to have - originated in the good-natured raillery between the French of - the several settlements. They probably point also to the want - often experienced by a trading people who neglected agriculture. - For further facts relative to the early history of St. Louis, - see Croghan's _Journals_, in our volume i, note 134, and Andre - Michaux's _Travels_, in our volume iii, note 138.--ED. - - - [078] The lack of a good harbor at St. Louis has occasioned - vast trouble and expense. The encroachment of the river on the - Illinois side caused sand-bars to form along the city water - front, and for many years it seemed likely that the town would - eventually be left high and dry. Efforts at improvement were - begun in 1833, ox-teams and plows being used to loosen the sand - for high water to remove. Both city and federal governments have - since made many improvements, the river at that point requiring - almost continuous care.--ED. - - - [079] George Rapp, the founder of the Harmonites, was born in - Wuertemberg in 1770. The sect endeavored to revive the practices - of the primitive Christian church, communism and celibacy being - among its tenets. After founding Harmony, Pennsylvania, in 1803, - and New Harmony, Indiana, in 1815, the community settled at - Harmony, Pennsylvania, where Rapp died in 1847.--ED. - - - [080] C. parviflorum.--JAMES. - - - [081] Hamamelis virginica, and quercus nigra.--JAMES. - - - [082] Bradbury's _Travels_ are reprinted as volume v of our - series. See preface of that volume for biographical sketch.--ED. - - - [083] What we have called base in the following statement is in - reality the length of a line passing over the top of the mound, - from the termination of the base each side. - - The numbers refer to a draft. The heights are estimated, with - the exception of two. - - No. 2. A square with a hollow way, gradually sloping to the top; - or, in other words, a hollow square open behind. - - feet. - Base 50 - Height 5 - Distance N. from the Spanish bastion 259 - - No. 3. An oblong square. - - feet. - Longitudinal base 114 - Transverse base 50 - Length at top 80 - Perpendicular height 4 - Distance from No. 2. N. 115 - - No. 4. An oblong square. - - feet. - Longitudinal base 84 - top 45 - Perpendicular height 4 - Distance N. 251 - - - Nos. 2. 3. and 4. are each about 33 - ordinary steps from the edge of the - second bank of the river. - - No. 5. An oblong square. - - feet. - Longitudinal base 81 - top 35 - Perpendicular height 4 - Distance W. 155 - - No. 6. Different in form from the - others. It is called the _Falling - Garden_, and consists of three stages, - all of equal length, and of the same - parallelogramic form: the superior - stage, like the five succeeding mounds, - is bounded on the east by the edge of - the second bank of the river: the second - and third stages are in succession on - the declivity of the bank, each being - horizontal; and are connected with each - other, and with the first, by an - abruptly oblique descent. - - feet. - Longitudinal base 114 - top 88 - Transverse base of first stage 30 - height of first stage 5 - Declivity to the second stage 34 - Transverse surface of second stage 51 - Declivity to the third stage 30 - Transverse surface of third stage 87 - Declivity to the natural slope 19 - - feet. - No. 7. Like the three succeeding ones, - conical. - Distance northward 95 - Base 83 - Top 34 - Height 4-1/2 - - No. 8. Distance about N. 94 - Base 98 - Top 31 - Height 5 - - No. 9. Distance about N. 70 - Base 114 - Top 56 - Height 16 - - No. 10. Distance about N. 74 - Base 91 - Top 34 - Height 8 or 10 - - No. 11. Nearly square, with a large area - on the top (a brick house is erected at - the S.W. corner). The eastern side - appears to range with the preceding - mounds. - Distance 158 - Base 179 - Top 107 - Height W. side, say 5 - Height S. 11 - Height E. 15 or 20 - - No. 12. Nearly square, westerly a little - N. from No. 7. and distant from it 30 - Base 129 - Top 50 - Height 10 - - No. 13. A parallelogram, placed - transversely with respect to the group. - - feet. - Distance 30 - Distance from No. 5. N. 10 W. 350 - Longitudinal base 214 - top 134 - Transverse base 188 - top 97 - Height 12 - - No. 14. A convex mound, W. 55 - Base 95 - Height 5 or 6 - - No. 15. Together with the three - succeeding ones, more or less square. - - feet. - Distance N.W. 117 - Base 70 - Height 4 - - No. 16. Distance N. 10 E. 103 - Base 124 - - No. 17. Distance N. 78 - Base 82 - - No. 18. Distance, N.N.E. 118 - Base 77 - - The mounds from 14. to 18. inclusive, - are so arranged as to describe a curve, - which, when continued, terminates at the - larger mounds, Nos. 15. and 19. No. 19. - A large quadrangular mound, placed - transversely, and with No. 13., ranging - in a line nearly parallel to the - principal series (from 2. to 11.) - - feet. - Distance N.N.W. from No. 13. 484 - Distance E.N.E. from No. 18. 70 - Base 187 - Top 68 - (By measurement) Height 23 - - No. 20. A small barrow, perhaps two feet - high, and of proportionably rather large - base, say 15 or 20 feet. - - No. 21. A mound similar to the - preceding, same height. West of No. 16., - base 25 feet. - - No. 22. Quadrangular. - - feet. - Distance West from No. 16. 319 - Base 73 - - No. 23. A mound of considerable - regularity; but, owing to the - thickness of the bushes, we cannot at - present satisfy ourselves of its being - artificial, though from its - corresponding with No. 25. we suppose - it to be so. - - No. 24. Appears to be an irregular mound - 10 or 12 feet high, and 145 feet base. - - No. 25. Distant N. 10 E. 114 feet; and - following this course 132 feet, we - arrive at an elevation on its margin, - as is also the case with No. 24., and - which we have numbered 26. - - No. 26. Of which the base is 89 feet, - and height 10 or 12.--It is distant - W.N.W. from No. 26., 538 feet. - - No. 27. Is the largest mound, of an - elongated-oval form, with a large step - on the eastern side. - - feet. - Distance N. from No. 26. 1463 - Longitudinal base 319 - top 136 - Transverse base 158 - top 11 - Step transversely 79 - Height by measurement 34 - - At the distance of a mile to the westward, is said to be another - large mound.--JAMES. - - _Comment by Ed._ These mounds have been effaced by the growth - of the city. The map of them prepared by Long's party was not - published until 1861; it will be found on page 387 of the - Smithsonian Institution _Report_ for that year. - - - [084] The uncertainty with which the shell mentioned was classed - as _Cassis cornutus_ renders its identification in terms of - modern nomenclature practically impossible; such identification - could be accurately made only by examination of the same - specimen. The value of the argument relative to the origin of - the Indians is, therefore, not easy to estimate.--ED. - - - [085] From this fact it derived the name "Monk's Mound." The - Trappist establishment was made in 1808, but was soon afterwards - abandoned. The mound is one of the largest in the United - States--the area of the base is six acres, that of the top two; - the height is ninety-one feet.--ED. - - - [086] Maturin.-JAMES. - - _Comment by Ed._ Charles Robert Maturin (1782-1816) was a Dublin - dramatist and novelist. In his writings passages of undoubted - eloquence were strangely mingled with extravagance and bombast. - The incoherence of his plots and the inconsistency of his - characters led many who recognized his genius to believe him mad. - - - [087] The cordelle was a rope, often several hundred yards - long, by means of which men towed boats up rapid streams. When - the current was especially strong, the end of the cordelle was - attached to a tree and a windlass used.--ED. - - - [088] In a section of forty feet perpendicular, of the alluvion - of the Mississippi, near New Madrid, Mr. Shultz found seven - hundred and ninety-eight layers, indicating an equal number of - inundations, in the time of their deposition. Supposing these - inundations to have happened yearly, we have an easy method - of forming an estimate of the rapidity of the elevation of - the bed of the Mississippi. These layers were found to vary - in thickness, from one-fourth of an inch to three inches. See - Shultz's _Travels_, vol. ii. p. 90.--JAMES. - - - [089] Bellefontaine, or Fort Bellefontaine (old Fort Charles - the Prince), was occupied by troops until 1826. See Thwaites, - _Original Journals of the Lewis and Clark Expedition_, v, pp. - 392, 393, note 2. The site of the newer works mentioned in the - text is now uncertain. An island opposite the mouth of Cold - Water Creek was the camp of Lewis and Clark the first night - after beginning the ascent of the Missouri (May 14, 1804).--ED. - - - [090] Tilia Americana. The Podalyria alba, anemone virginiana, - polygala incarnata (prairies) anagallis arvensis, lathyrus - decaphyllus, ranunculus fluviatalis, carex multiflora, &c. were - collected at Bellefontain. _Dr. Baldwin's MS. Notes._--JAMES. - - - [091] The correct orthography of the word is Charbonniere, which - means "carrying coals."--ED. - - - [092] This was Benjamin O'Fallon, whose mother was the youngest - sister of George Rogers and William Clark; his father, Dr. James - O'Fallon, was a Revolutionary character and prominent Kentucky - pioneer. A brother, John O'Fallon, was in the middle of the - century, one of the most prominent citizens of St. Louis. - - John Dougherty was later for many years agent for the Oto, - Pawnee, and Omaha tribes.--ED. - - - [093] For St. Charles, see Bradbury's _Travels_, in our volume - v, note 9.--ED. - - - [094] The vegetable productions at this place were, the populus - deltoides, occupying the narrow margin of the river (not here - preceded by the salix angustata, as is generally the case in - recent alluvial grounds on the Ohio and Mississippi); the - amorpha fruticosa,[A] and platanus occidentalis, next follow. - The margin of the bluff produces the quercus rubra, juglans - pubescens, carpinus Americana, (around the latter, we observed - the celastrus scandens entwined and in fruit,) and on higher - grounds, the laurus sassafras and juniperus Virginianus. Of - herbaceous plants, the only one in flower was the rudbeckia - fulgida. The higher parts of the hills were in many places - thickly covered with species of elymus and andropogon, the - summits being usually quite naked, and consisting of horizontal - masses of ferruginous coloured sandstone. _Baldwin._--JAMES. - - - [A] This beautiful flowering shrub occupies the low lands of - Georgia, on the sea coast, but is not confined to the margin of - rivers, as appears to be the case on the Missouri. - - - [095] On Point L'Abbadie, see Bradbury's _Travels_, comprising - our volume v, note 13.--ED. - - - [096] Baldwin.--JAMES. - - - [097] Dardenne Creek flows northeast across St. Charles County - to the Mississippi, as do nearly all the watercourses of this - county. It and the township of the same name are so called from - one of the early settlers.--ED. - - - [098] Perruque (Wig) Creek is said to commemorate the adventure - of a Frenchman whose wig became entangled in the branches of a - tree while he was crossing the stream.--ED. - - - [099] Thomas Kennedy, a Revolutionary veteran from Virginia - came to Warren County, Missouri, early in 1808. His stockade - and blockhouse, built for protection against the Indians during - the War of 1812-15, stood a mile and a half southeast of Wright - City.--ED. - - - [100] The course of the party had been northwest through St. - Clair and Warren counties, and thence south by west to the - river. Loutre Island is on the boundary between Warren and - Montgomery counties.--ED. - - - [101] This affair took place March 7, 1815. Captain James - Callaway was the grandson of Daniel Boone. His company consisted - besides himself of a lieutenant and fourteen men.--ED. - - - [102] Loutre (Otter) Island was the site of the first - settlements in Montgomery County, which probably date back - to 1798. There were two Talbots among the early arrivals, - Christopher and Hale. Among their neighbors were the Thorps, - Ashcrafts, Coles, Pattons, and Coopers--there were two or three - families of each, most of them being from Kentucky. The father - of "Kit" Carson was another member of the community.--ED. - - - - -{73} CHAPTER IV - - Settlement of Cote Sans Dessein--Mouths of the Osage--Manito - Rocks--Village of Franklin - - -The left bank of the Missouri at the confluence of Loutre Creek -is precipitous, terminating a group of hills which can be -distinguished running far to the north-east. Towards the river -these fall off in perpendicular precipices, whose bases are -concealed in a dense growth of trees and underwood. From their -summits huge masses of rock have fallen; and some of these are -of such magnitude, that their summits rise above the surrounding -forest. One standing opposite the head of the island next above -Loutre, is marked with numerous rude drawings, executed by the -Indians; some representing men with the heads of bisons, spears, -arrows, bows, &c. Half a mile above this rock the Gasconade enters -the Missouri from the south. The sources of this river are in -the hilly country, near those of some of the larger tributaries -of the Yungar fork of the Osage; its waters are transparent, and -its current rapid. Traversing a rocky and broken country, it has -not the uniformity of current common to many of the branches of -the Missouri, but is varied by numerous cataracts and rapids, -affording convenient stations for water-mills. Some saw-mills -have already been erected; and from them a supply of pine-timber -is brought to the settlements on the Missouri, that tree being -rarely met with here, except in the hilly country. The Gasconade is -navigable for a few miles. As might be expected, a projected town -is placed at the confluence of this {74} river and the Missouri, -and is to be called Gasconade.[103] - -Above the Gasconade, the aspect of the shores of the Missouri is -the same as below, except that the hills are discontinued on the -left side, and make their appearance on the right, extending along -eight or nine miles; above this both shores are low bottom -grounds. - -Having received on board Mr. Say and his companions, we left -Loutre Island on the 3d of July; and passing in succession the -mouths of the Gasconade, Bear Creek, the Au Vase, and other -tributaries, we anchored on the evening of the 5th, above the -little village of Cote Sans Dessein.[104] This place contains -about thirty families, mostly French, occupying as many small log -cabins, scattered remotely along the left bank of the river. -Nearly opposite the village is the lower mouth of the Osage. Just -above the town is the elevated insular hill, which has given name -to the place; it extends about eight hundred yards, parallel to -the bank of the river, and terminates at a small stream called -Revoe's Creek. Back of the hill is a marsh, discharging a small -stream of water into the creek. The site of the settlement of Cote -Sans Dessein is remarkable on account of the fertility of the -soil, the black mould extending to the depth of about four feet. -The soil is very rich for twenty or thirty miles, in the rear of -the village; but the uncertainty of the titles, arising from the -conflicting claims, founded on the basis of pre-emption, New -Madrid grants, and the concession of a large tract opposite the -mouth of the Osage, made by the Spanish authorities in favour of Mr. -Choteau, still operates to retard the increase of population.[105] - -At the time of the late war the inhabitants of this settlement, -relying on mutual protection, did not retire, but erected two -stockades, and block-houses for their defence; the Sauks, assisted -by some Foxes and Ioways, having by a feigned attack and {75} -retreat, induced the greater part of the men to pursue them, -gained their rear by means of an ambuscade, and entering the -village, raised their war-cry at the doors of the cabins. The -women and children fled in consternation to the block-houses. At -this juncture a young man was seen, who would not abandon his -decrepit mother, even though she entreated him to fly and save his -own life, leaving her, who could at best expect to live but a few -days, to the mercy of the savages. The youth, instead of listening -to her request, raised her upon his shoulders, and ran towards the -stockade, closely pursued by the Indians. They fired several times -upon him, and he must have been cut off had not a sally been made -in his favour. - -After killing the villagers who had fallen into their hands, the -Indians proceeded to attack the lower stockade. The block-house at -this work was defended by two men, and several women. On hearing -the war-cry, this little but determined garrison responded to it -in such a manner as to communicate to the Indians the idea that -the block-house contained a considerable number of men. They, -therefore, proceeded to the attack with caution. In the first -onset, one of the two men received a mortal wound, which made him -incapable of further exertion--the other continued to discharge -the guns at the besiegers, they being loaded and put into his -hands by the women. One mode of attack, adopted by the Indians, -had nearly proved successful. They threw burning torches upon the -roof, which was several times on fire; but the women, with -admirable presence of mind, and undaunted intrepidity, ascended to -the top of the building and extinguished the flames. This scene -continued during the entire day; and at evening, when the -assailants withdrew, a small portion only of the roof remained; so -often had the attempt to fire the building been repeated. The loss -sustained by the enemy was never correctly {76} ascertained; it -has since been stated by an Indian, that fourteen were killed and -several wounded, but many are of opinion that two or three only -were killed. - -We saw the hero of this affair at the block-house itself, now -converted into a dwelling; but he did not appear to be greatly -esteemed, having perhaps few qualities except personal intrepidity -to recommend him.[106] Cote Sans Dessein contains a tavern, a -store, a blacksmith's shop, and a billiard table. - -The Cane[107] is no where met with on the Missouri; but its place -is in part supplied by the equisetum hiemale, which, remaining -green through the winter, affords an indifferent pasturage for -horned cattle and horses: to the latter, it often prove -deleterious. The inhabitants of St. Genevieve placed their horses -upon an island covered with rushes, where great numbers of them -shortly after died; but it was observed that such as received -regularly a small quantity of salt remained uninjured. Of a large -number of horses, placed on an island near the mouth of the -Nishnebottona,[108] to feed upon this plant, no less than twenty -were found dead at the end of five days. May not the deleterious -properties of the equisetum hiemale depend, in some measure, on -the frozen water included in the cavity of the stalk? - -We were told the cows on this part of the Missouri, at certain -seasons of the year, give milk so deleterious as to prove fatal, -when taken into the stomach; and this effect is commonly -attributed to a poisonous plant, said to be frequent in the low -grounds, where it is eaten by the cattle. They have a disease -called the _milk sickness_: it commences with nausea and -dizziness, succeeded by headache, pain in the stomach and bowels, -and finally, by a prostration of strength, which renders the -patient unable to stand; a general torpor soon ensues, succeeded -{77} by death. It is a common belief that the flesh of animals, -that have eaten of this poisonous weed, is noxious, and that -horses are destroyed by it. - -We have heard it remarked by the inhabitants of the Ohio below -the rapids, that the milk of cows running at large in August is -poisonous; and this they do not fail to attribute to the effect -of noxious plants; and in some places they point out to you one, -and in another place another vegetable, to which they assign these -properties. The inhabitants generally seem to have no suspicion -that milk, unless it is poisoned, can be an unwholesome article -of diet; and we have been often surprised to see it given to -those labouring under fever. Throughout the western states, and -particularly in the more remote settlements, much use is made of -butter-milk, and soured milk in various forms; all of which they -sell to travellers. Below Cote Sans Dessein we paid, for new milk, -twenty-five cents per gallon, and for soured milk, eighteen and -three-fourth cents. At that place twenty-five cents per quart were -demanded by the French settlers. It is commonly remarked that the -French, as well as the Indians, who have been long in the immediate -vicinity of the whites, charge a much higher price for any article -than the Anglo-Americans, under the same circumstances. Emigrants -from the southern states prefer sour milk; and the traveller's -taste in this particular, we have often observed, forms a test -to discover whether he is entitled to the opprobrious name of -_Yankee_, as the people of the northern and eastern states rarely -choose sour milk. We have found that in some of the sickliest parts -of the valley of the Mississippi, where bilious and typhoid fevers -prevail, through the summer and autumn, the most unrestrained use -is made of butter, milk, eggs, and similar articles of diet. Dr. -Baldwin was of opinion that the _milk sickness_ of the Missouri -did not originate from any deleterious vegetable substance eaten -by the cows, but {78} was a species of typhus, produced by putrid -exhalations, and perhaps aggravated by an incautious use of a milk -diet. - -During the few days we remained at Cote Sans Dessein, Dr. Baldwin, -though suffering much from weakness, and yielding perceptibly -to the progress of a fatal disease, was able to make several -excursions on shore. His devotion to a fascinating pursuit -stimulated him to exertions for which the strength of his wasted -frame seemed wholly inadequate; and it is not, perhaps, improbable -that his efforts may have somewhat hastened the termination of his -life. - -Between Loutre Island and Cote Sans Dessein compact limestone -occurs, in horizontal strata, along the sides of the Missouri -valley. It is of a bluish white colour, compact structure, and a -somewhat concoidal fracture, containing few organic remains. It -alternates with sandstones, having a silicious cement.[109] These -horizontal strata are deeply covered with soil, usually a -calcareous loam, intermixed with decayed vegetable matter. - -July 6th.--Soon after leaving the settlement of Cote Sans Dessein, -we passed the upper and larger mouth of the Osage river. Here, to -use the language of the country, a town has been _located_, and -the lots lately disposed of at St. Louis, at various prices, from -fifty to one hundred and eighty dollars each.[110] Within the -limits of this town is a considerable hill, rising at the point of -the junction of the two rivers, and running parallel to the -Missouri. From its summit is an extensive view of the village of -Cote Sans Dessein, and the surrounding country. - -The river of the Osages, so called from the well-known tribe of -Indians inhabiting its banks, enters the Missouri one hundred and -thirty-three miles above the confluence of the latter river with -the Mississippi. Its sources are in the Ozark mountains, opposite -those of the White river of the Mississippi, and of the Neosho, -{79} a tributary of the Arkansa. Flowing along the base of the -north-western slope of a mountainous range, it receives from the -east several rapid and beautiful rivers, of which the largest is -the Yungar, (so named, in some Indian language, from the great -number of springs tributary to it,) entering the Osage one hundred -and forty miles from the Missouri. - -In point of magnitude the Osage ranks nearly with the Cumberland -and Tennessee. It has been represented as navigable for six -hundred miles; but as its current is known to be rapid, flowing -over great numbers of shoals and sand-bars, this must be -considered an exaggeration. In the lower part of its course it -traverses broad and fertile bottom lands, bearing heavy forests of -sycamore and cotton trees. We may expect the country along the -banks of this river will soon become the seat of a numerous -population, as it possesses in a fertile soil and a mild climate, -advantages more than sufficient to compensate for the difficulty -of access, and other inconveniences of situation. - -The northern bank of the Missouri, for some distance above the -confluence of the Osage, is hilly. Moreau's Creek enters three -miles above; and at its mouth is Cedar Island, where we anchored -for the night. This island is three miles long, and has furnished -much cedar timber for the settlements below; but its supply is now -nearly exhausted.[111] - -In the afternoon of the following day we were entangled among -great numbers of _snags_ and _planters_, and had a cat-head -carried away by one of them. In shutting off the steam on this -occasion, one of the valves was displaced; and as we were no -longer able to confine the steam, the engine became useless, the -boat being thus exposed to imminent danger. At length we succeeded -in extricating ourselves; and came to an anchor near the entrance -of a small stream, called Mast Creek by Lewis and Clarke.[112] - -{80} At evening dense cumulostratus and cirrostratus clouds -skirted the horizon: above these we observed a comet bearing -north-west by north. Above the mouth of the Osage, the immediate -valley of the Missouri gradually expands, embracing some wide -bottoms, in which are many settlements increasing rapidly in the -number of inhabitants. The Manito rocks, and some other -precipitous cliffs, are the terminations of low ranges of hills -running in quite to the river. These hills sometimes occasion -rapids in the river, as in the instance of the Manito rocks; -opposite which commences a group of small islands stretching -obliquely across the Missouri, and separated by narrow channels, -in which the current is stronger than below. Some of these -channels we found obstructed by collections of floating trees, -which usually accumulate about the heads of islands, and are here -called rafts. After increasing to a certain extent, portions of -these rafts becoming loosened, float down the river, sometimes -covering nearly its whole surface, and greatly endangering the -safety, and impeding the progress, of such boats as are ascending. -The group above mentioned is called the Thousand Islands. - -Nashville, Smithton, Rectorsville, and numerous other towns of -similar character and name, containing from one to half a dozen -houses each, are to be met with in a few miles above the Little -Manito rocks. Almost every settler, who has established himself on -the Missouri, is confidently expecting that his farm is, in a few -years, to become the seat of wealth and business, and the mart for -an extensive district.[113] - -The banks of the Missouri, in this part, present an alternation of -low alluvial bottoms and rocky cliffs. Roche a Pierce Creek is a -small stream entering nearly opposite another, called Splice -Creek, a few miles above the Manito rocks. Here is a range of -rocky cliffs, penetrated by numerous cavities and fissures, {81} -hence called by the French boatmen, Roche a Pierce, and giving -name to the creek.[114] These rocks we found filled with organic -remains, chiefly encrinites. About eight or ten miles above this -point the Missouri again washes the base of the rocky hills, which -bound its immediate valley. The rocks advance boldly to the brink -of the river, exhibiting a perpendicular front, variegated with -several colours arranged in broad stripes. Here is a fine spring -of water gushing out at the base of the precipice; over it are -several rude paintings executed by the Indians. These cliffs are -called the Big Manito rocks, and appear to have been objects of -peculiar veneration with the aborigines, and have accordingly -received the name of their Great Spirit. - -It is not to be understood that the general surface of the -country, of which we are now speaking, is traversed by continuous -ridges, which, in their course across the valley of the Missouri, -occasion the alternation of hill and plain; which to a person -ascending the river, forms the most conspicuous feature of the -country. The immediate valley of the Missouri preserves great -uniformity in breadth, and is bounded on both sides by chains of -rocky bluffs rising from one to two hundred feet above the surface -of the included valley, and separating it from those vast woodless -plains which overspread so great a part of the country. -Meandering from right to left along this valley the river -alternately washes the base of the bluffs on either side, while, -from a person passing up or down the stream, the heavy forests -intercept the view of the bluffs, except at the points where they -are thus disclosed. Opposite the Big Manito rocks, and the island -of the same name, is the Little Saline river, on the left side; -and three or four miles above, on the opposite side, a stream -called the Big Manito Creek.[115] Here we passed the night of the -12th July. About midnight so violent a storm arose that we were -{82} compelled to leave our encampment on shore, the tent being -blown down, and to seek shelter on board the boat. Though the -storm did not continue long, the water fell to the depth of one -inch and an half. - -After taking in a supply of wood, we departed on the morning of -the 13th, and the same day arrived at Franklin. This town, at -present, increasing more rapidly than any other on the Missouri, -had been commenced but two years and an half before the time of our -journey. It then contained about one hundred and twenty log houses -of one story, several framed dwellings of two stories, and two of -brick, thirteen shops for the sale of merchandize, four taverns, -two smiths' shops, two large team-mills, two billiard-rooms, a -court-house, a log prison of two stories, a post-office, and a -printing-press issuing a weekly paper. At this time bricks were -sold at ten dollars per thousand, corn at twenty-five cents per -bushel, wheat one dollar, bacon at twelve and a half cents per -pound, uncleared lands from two to ten or fifteen dollars per -acre. The price of labour was seventy-five cents per day. - -In 1816 thirty families only of whites, were settled on the left -side of the Missouri, above Cote Sans Dessein. In three years, -their numbers had increased to more than eight hundred families. - -The Missouri bottoms about Franklin are wide, and have the same -prolific and inexhaustible soil as those below. The labour of one -slave is here reckoned sufficient for the culture of twenty acres -of Indian corn, and produces ordinarily about sixty bushels per -acre, at a single crop. In the most fertile parts of Kentucky, -fifteen acres of corn are thought to require the labour of one -slave, and the crop being less abundant, we may reckon the -products of agriculture there, at about one third part less than -in the best lands on the Missouri. Franklin is the seat of {83} -justice for Howard county. It stands on a low and recent alluvial -plain, and has behind it a small stagnant creek. The bed of the -river, near the shore, has been heretofore obstructed by -sand-bars, which prevented large boats from approaching the town; -whether this evil will increase or diminish, it is not possible to -determine; such is the want of stability in every thing belonging -to the channel of the Missouri. It is even doubtful whether the -present site of Franklin will not, at some future day, be occupied -by the river, which appears to be at this time encroaching on its -bank. Similar changes have happened in the short period since the -establishments of the first settlements on the Missouri. The site -of St. Anthony, a town which existed about thirteen years since, -near Bon Homme, is now occupied by the channel of the river. -Opposite Franklin is Boonsville, containing, at the time of our -visit, eight houses, but having, in some respects, a more -advantageous situation, and probably destined to rival, if not -surpass, its neighbour.[116] - -Numerous brine springs are found in the country about Franklin. -Boon's Lick, four miles distant, was the earliest settlement in -this vicinity, and for some time gave name to the surrounding -country. Some furnaces have been erected, and salt is manufactured, -in sufficient quantities to supply the neighbouring settlements. -Compact limestone appears to be the prevailing rock, but it is well -known that the coal-beds, and strata of sand-stone, occur at a -little distance from the river.[117] We visited one establishment -for the manufacture of salt. The brine is taken from a spring at -the surface of the earth, and is not remarkably concentrated, -yielding only one bushel of salt to each four hundred and fifty -gallons. Eighty bushels are manufactured daily, and require three -cords of wood for the evaporation of the water. The furnace -consists of a chimney-like funnel, rising obliquely along the side -of a hill, {84} instead of the vertical and horizontal flues, -commonly used in these manufactories. The fire being kindled in -the lower orifice of this, the ascent of the air drives the flame -against forty or fifty iron pots, inserted in a double series; -to these the water is conveyed by small pipes. The banks of the -ravine in which this spring rises, still retain the traces of those -numerous herds of bisons, elk, and other herbivorous animals, which -formerly resorted here for their favourite condiment. - -While at Franklin, the gentlemen of the exploring party received -many gratifying attentions, particularly from Gen. T. A. Smith, at -whose house they were often hospitably received, and where they -all dined by invitation on the 17th of July.[118] Here we met -several intelligent inhabitants of the village, and of the -surrounding country, from whose conversation we were able to -collect much information of the character of the country, and the -present condition of the settlements. - -Mr. Munroe, a resident of Franklin, related to us, that being on a -hunting excursion, in the year 1816, he remained some time on a -branch of the Le Mine river, where he found the relics of the -encampment of a large party of men, but whether of white troops, -or Indian warriors, he could not determine. Not far from this -encampment, he observed a recent mound of earth, about eight feet -in height, which he was induced to believe must be a cache, or -place of deposit, for the spoils which the party, occupying the -encampment, had taken from an enemy, and which they could not -remove with them on their departure. He accordingly opened the -mound, and was surprised to find in it the body of a white -officer, apparently a man of rank, and which had been interred -with extraordinary care. - -The body was placed in a sitting posture, upon an Indian rush mat, -with its back resting against some logs placed around it in the -manner of a log house, enclosing {85} a space of about three by -five feet, and about four feet high, covered at top with a mat -similar to that beneath. The clothing was still in sufficient -preservation to enable him to distinguish a red coat, trimmed with -gold lace, golden epaulets, a spotted buff waistcoat, finished -also with gold lace, and pantaloons of white nankeen. On the head -was a round beaver hat, and a bamboo walking stick, with the -initials J. M. C. engraved upon a golden head, reclined against -the arm, but was somewhat decayed where it came in contact with -the muscular part of the leg. On raising the hat, it was found -that the deceased had been hastily scalped. - -To what nation this officer belonged, Mr. Munroe could not -determine. He observed, however, that the button taken from the -shoulder, had the word Philadelphia moulded upon it. The cane -still remains in the possession of the narrator, but the button -was taken by another of his party. - -In relation to this story, Gen. Smith observed, that when he -commanded the United States' troops in this department, he was -informed of an action that had taken place near the Le Mine, in -the Autumn of 1815, between some Spanish dragoons, aided by a few -Pawnee Indians, and a war party of Sauks and Foxes. In the course -of this action, a Spanish officer had pursued an Indian boy, who -was endeavouring to escape with a musket on his shoulder, but who -finding himself nearly overtaken, had discharged the musket behind -him at random, and had killed the officer on the spot. The -skirmish continuing, the body was captured, and recaptured several -times, but at last remained with the Spanish party. This may -possibly have been the body discovered by Mr. Munroe, but by whom -it was buried, in a manner so singular, is unknown. - -About the middle of July, the summer freshets in the Missouri -began to subside at Franklin. On the {86} 17th the water fell -twelve inches, though in the preceding week more than two inches -of rain had fallen. We were informed that the floods had continued -longer this year, and had risen higher than usual, owing to the -unusual quantities of rain that had fallen. - - -FOOTNOTES: - - [103] Of Gasconade in 1823 it is said, "very few buildings are - as yet erected, and it is very doubtful whether its increase - will be as rapid as was anticipated." It was the first seat of - Gasconade County, but was supplanted by Hermann. At present its - population numbers less than one hundred. - - The description of Gasconade River is adequate. The "Yungar" - fork of Osage is now called Niangua (Osage word for bear).--ED. - - - [104] Au Vase (Muddy) has been corrupted to Auxvasse, and there - are now two streams in Callaway County bearing this name. The - larger, also called Big Muddy Creek, is the first important - stream above the Gasconade. Bear (or Loose) Creek, is seven - miles farther up, and the second Auxvasse, which answers the - description in the text, is just beyond. Other tributaries are - Deer Creek, from the south, just above Big Muddy River, and - Middle River, from the north, opposite Bear Creek. The stream - called Revoe's Creek a few lines below, is now Rivaux (Rivals) - Creek. - - For Cote Sans Dessein, see Bradbury's _Travels_, comprising our - volume v, note 20.--ED. - - - [105] The grants of land in Louisiana under Spanish rule were - in a marked degree irregular and heterogeneous. Only those were - complete which had received endorsement by the governor-general - at New Orleans. Most of the settlers were too poor to undertake - the journey thither and pay the required fees; a tacit right - of occupation was therefore permitted by the local officials, - lands were unsurveyed, and much confusion resulted. During the - last decade of Spanish authority (1794-1804) large numbers of - Americans had been tempted to cross the Mississippi and stake - out claims in upper Louisiana. Some of these were bona fide - settlers, more mere speculators; and after the rumor of Spanish - cession to France was heard, fraudulent grants were made in - large numbers. Upon knowledge of this, the congress of the - United States in the act of March 26, 1804, revoked all grants - made since the treaty of San Ildefonso (1800) with a proviso - exempting the rights of actual settlers. This law created much - dissatisfaction, and petitions for redress were sent from both - upper Louisiana and Orleans Territory. See _American State - Papers_, "Miscellaneous," i, pp. 396-405. Thereupon Congress - passed acts for redress--that for upper Louisiana (March 2, - 1805) creating a commission, which first met in St. Louis, - September 20, 1806; but its final report was not made until - 1812. See _American State Papers_, "Public Lands," ii, pp. - 388-603. - - The lands set apart for the relief of sufferers by the New - Madrid earthquakes were known as "New Madrid grants." Auguste - Chouteau established the first distillery in St. Louis by the - aid of an extensive grant.--ED. - - - [106] The hero of this exploit was a Frenchman bearing the name - of Baptiste Louis Roi.--ED. - - - [107] Miegia macrosperma of Persoon.--JAMES. - - - [108] The Nishnebottona (Nishnabotna) enters the Missouri in - Atchison County, in the northwest corner of the state. See - _post_, note 166.--ED. - - - [109] From Bay Charles Hill, four miles below Hannibal, - Missouri, we received, through Dr. Sommerville, several organic - remains. Among them are the following:-- - - Carbonate of Lime. - - One specimen contains exclusive quantities of segments of the - encrinite of small diameter, from one-fourth of an inch down - to minute. - - Another specimen also, with numerous small encrinites, has a - very wide and short radiated productus. - - Another specimen, a grayish chert, containing cavities formed - by the solution and disappearance of encrinites. The parts of - these which were originally hollow when in the state of - carbonate of lime, being subsequently filled with chert, now - show the nature of the fossil, being cylindrical cavities, - with a solid centre and transverse partitions, the largest - three-tenths of an inch wide. - - From Rector's-hill, adjoining the village of Clarksville, - Missouri, from Dr. Sommerville's collection:-- - - A specimen of oolite--carbonate of lime. - - It is composed of small spherical granules in contact with - each other, which, in their fracture, exhibit rather a - concentric tendency, with the appearance of a central nucleus; - but we could not perceive any decided evidences of former - organization in them. Imbedded in the mass are a few columnar - segments of encrinites, and a portion of a compressed bivalve, - which, in the form of its radiating lines, resembles a pecten. - - From Charboniere:-- - - A specimen in argillaceous sandstone of a portion of a leaf - like the nelumbium. It is only the middle portion of the - impression of the leaf that remains, being of an oval form of - about five inches in greatest diameter, the rest being broken - away; the stalk has been broken off at the junction of the - leaf. - - Productus spinosus. SAY. - - A small species of terebratula, in width two-fifths, and in - length more than seven-tenths of an inch--an internal - cast--individuals very numerous, varying much in size, the - smallest being about one-fifth of an inch wide. - - From the Mammelles near St. Charles:-- - - Productus: a portion of a valve, and smaller portion of the - opposite valve of a remarkably large species, of which the - proportions may have been not dissimilar to that of the Ency. - Meth. pl. 244. fig. 5. The striae are similar to those of that - shell, except in being somewhat smaller; and the groove of one - valve, and consequent elevation of the other, not so profound, - less abrupt, and more angular in the middle, and far less - prominent on the edge of the shell. It may justly be named - _grandis_, as its hinge width was more than 3-1/2 inches.--JAMES. - - - [110] The town established here was Osage City. In 1823 it was - described as still "nearly in a state of nature." The present - population is about five hundred.--ED. - - - [111] Moreau's Creek (River a Morou, Marrow Creek, Murrow Creek) - flows from the south. Moreau signifies "extremely black." - - Just above Cedar Island is Jefferson City (Missouriopolis on the - map,) the state capital.--ED. - - - [112] Mast Creek cannot be identified with certainty, as there - are several small creeks where Lewis and Clark locate it, - fourteen and a half miles above Cedar Island. The name was given - because of an accident to the mast of their vessel.--ED. - - - [113] Nashville was laid out in 1819, on land owned by a man - named Nash. The site was on the river, just below Providence, - Boone County, but the town was destroyed by a change of the - channel. - - The site of Smithton was a half mile west of the court house - in the town of Columbia, but the difficulty in obtaining water - there led to removal in 1820 to the site of Columbia. The - original town was named Smithton in honor of Thomas A. Smith, - land office register at Franklin. See _post_, note 118.--ED. - - - [114] Roche a Pierce is a corruption of a phrase meaning - "pierced rock," which has been restored in the present name of - the stream (Roche Percee). The mouth of the river is just above - Providence. - - On some maps, Splice Creek is Spice Creek.--ED. - - - [115] The Little Saline (Petite Saline) flows from the south. - Big Manito Creek (now corrupted to Moniteau) debouches at - Rocheport, on the north side of the river. Another Moniteau - Creek enters the Missouri from the south, at the Thousand - Islands, near the boundary between Cole and Moniteau - counties.--ED. - - - [116] The disaster feared actually occurred in 1828. Franklin - was laid off in 1816, being named for the famous Philadelphian. - For a decade it was a town of considerable importance. It was - the county seat, contained the United States land office, and - was the point of departure for the Santa Fe country. Most of the - inhabitants hailed from Kentucky, Tennessee, and Virginia, and - at one time numbered between fifteen hundred and two thousand. - When the encroachments of the river drove away the residents, - they founded New Franklin, two miles distant, and thereafter the - earlier site was known as Old Franklin.--ED. - - - [117] In compact limestone, which had been subjected to the - action of fire, we observed segments of encrinites becoming - easily detached. They were three-fifths of an inch in diameter, - varying to the size of fine sand. At Boonsville we found a small - ostrea and a terebratula, in carbonate of lime.--JAMES. - - - [118] Thomas A. Smith, a native of Virginia, attained - the rank of brigadier-general during the War of 1812-15. - Resigning his commission in 1818, he was appointed receiver of - the land office at Old Franklin, Missouri. In 1826 he removed - to a large tract of prairie land on Salt Fork, Saline County, - about eight miles from Marshall. This being one of the - earliest attempts to occupy prairie land, Smith called his - estate "Experiment." He was an intimate friend of Senator - Thomas A. Benton. See volume xvi of our series, note 91, for - his military record.--ED. - - - - -{87} CHAPTER V - - Death of Dr. Baldwin--Charaton River, and Settlement--Pedestrian - Journey from Franklin to Fort Osage. - - -Dr. Baldwin's health had so much declined that, on our arrival at -Franklin, he was induced to relinquish the intention of ascending -farther with the party. He was removed on shore to the house of -Dr. Lowry, intending to remain there until he should recover so -much strength as might enable him to return to his family. But the -hopes of his friends, even for his partial recovery, were not to be -realized. He lingered a few weeks after our departure, and expired -on the thirty-first of August. His diary, in which the latest date -is the eighth of August, only a few days previous to his death, -shows with what earnestness, even in the last stages of weakness -and disease, his mind was devoted to the pursuit, in which he had -so nobly spent the most important part of his life. He has left -behind him a name which will long be honoured;--his early death -will be regretted not only by those who knew his value as a friend, -but by all the lovers of that fascinating science, to which his -life was dedicated, and which his labours have so much contributed -to advance and embellish. We regret that it is not in our power to -add to this inadequate testimony of respect, such notices of the -life and writings of Dr. Baldwin, as might be satisfactory to our -readers. His manuscripts were numerous, but his works were left -unfinished. The remarks on the Rotbollia, published in Silliman's -Journal, are his only productions, as far as we are informed, -hitherto before the public.[119] His Herbarium, it is well known, -{88} has contributed to enrich the works of Pursh and Nuttall. He -was the friend and correspondent of the venerable Muhlenbergh, and -contributed materials for the copious catalogue of North American -plants, published by that excellent botanist. In South America -he met with Bonpland, the illustrious companion of Humboldt, and -a friendly correspondence was established between them, which -continued until his death.[120] He had travelled extensively, -not only in South America, but in Georgia, Florida, and other -parts of North America. His notes and collections are extensive -and valuable. During the short period of his connection with the -exploring party, the infirmities, resulting from a long established -and incurable pulmonary disease, then rapidly approaching its fatal -termination, could not overcome the activity of his mind, or divert -his attention entirely from his favourite pursuit. Though unable -to walk on shore, he caused plants to be collected and brought -on board the boat; and not disheartened by the many vexations -attending this method of examination, he persevered, and in the -course of the voyage from Pittsburgh to Franklin, detected and -described many new plants, and added many valuable observations -relating to such as were before known. To show the scope and -accuracy of his method of observation, and for the gratification -of the botanical reader, we subjoin a part of the observations -registered in Dr. Baldwin's diary, from July 15th, the time of our -departure from Cote Sans Dessein, to its conclusion. From this the -reader will be able to form a satisfactory idea of the vegetable -physiognomy of the country on this portion of the banks of the -Missouri.[121] - -Messrs. Say, Jessup, Seymour, and Dougherty, accompanied by Major -Biddle, left Franklin on the 19th of July, intending to traverse -the country by land, to Fort Osage, where they proposed to await -the arrival of the steamboat. A pack-horse was purchased {89} for -the transportation of their baggage, and a tent, blankets, and -provisions, furnished for their accommodation. - -The party now remaining on board the steam-boat, consisted of -Major Long, Major O'Fallon, Mr. Peale, and Lieutenants Graham and -Swift. Having completed some repairs of machinery, and other -necessary operations, which had occasioned a delay of six days at -Franklin, we left that place on the same day, at four o'clock in -the afternoon. The inhabitants of the village were assembled on -the banks of the river to witness our departure, and signified -their good wishes by repeated cheers and acclamations. The fuel we -had taken on board, being of an indifferent quality, we were able -to make small progress against the rapid current of the Missouri. -We anchored, for the night, three miles above Franklin. Finding -the valves, and other parts of the steam-engine, so much worn by -the fine sand, suspended in the water of the river, as to become -leaky, we were compelled to lie by, and were occupied for a day in -making repairs. In the meantime the boat's crew were employed in -taking on board a supply of dry mulberry wood, which is the best -that the forests along the Missouri afford. The water in the river -was now subsiding, and the rapidity of the current consequently -diminishing; we did not, therefore, so much regret the necessary -delays, as we might otherwise have done. Some of the party went -out on the south-west side of the river, to search for game. Most -of the deer, and larger animals, as well as the turkies, have -fled from this part of the country, though it is but a few years -since they were extremely abundant; they met, however, with a -racoon, the Maryland arctomys, some small birds, and some -interesting little animals. After leaving the river bottom, they -passed some groves of small scattered oak trees, and bushes, and -arrived at the margin of a wide grassy plain, which spread before -them as unvaried, {90} and apparently as boundless as the ocean, -and which is said to extend uninterrupted, near three hundred -miles, to the Arkansa. - -At evening a soldier came on board the boat, who had been sent -express from Colonel Chambers' command. He brought intelligence -that the detachment had arrived within fifteen miles of Fort -Osage, and that their provisions were nearly exhausted. - -Charaton, where we arrived on the 22d, is a small village, its -settlement having been commenced in the year 1817. It is, however, -in a flourishing condition, and from the advantages of its -situation, promises to become one of the most important towns on -the Missouri. It does not stand immediately on the bank of the -Missouri, but of the Charaton river, about seven hundred yards -above its mouth. Charaton will be the depot of merchandize, for a -large extent of fertile country, which lies towards the north and -east. At this time, the settlement contained about fifty houses, -and near five hundred inhabitants, on a spot where two years -previous, no permanent habitation had been established. Such is -the rapidity, with which the forests of the Missouri are becoming -filled with an enterprising and industrious population.[122] - -Charaton river is seventy-five yards wide at its mouth, and -navigable, at high water, one hundred and fifty miles. Half a -mile from its confluence with the Missouri, it receives the -Little Charaton, also a considerable stream, and navigable for -many miles. The Charaton originates near the De Moyen[123] river -of the Mississippi, and traverses a country which is of great -importance, both on account of the fertility of its soil, and its -inexhaustible mines of coal. The Western Engineer, being the first -steam-boat that had ever ascended the Missouri, above Charaton, -great numbers of the settlers were attracted to the banks of the -river, on both sides, to witness our progress. So numerous were -the obstacles to be encountered, that many were of opinion our -progress {91} would soon be arrested. It sometimes happened, that -mistaking the channel, we ran our boat aground in shoal places, -and in some instances it was necessary to fall back, in order to -extricate ourselves from these difficulties. In this way much time -was consumed. - -The expansions of the Missouri bottom above Franklin have, since -their settlement, received distinctive names. We pass on the south -the Chenai au Barre, Tabeau, Tite-saw, and Miami bottoms; on the -north, those of Charaton, Sugar-tree, and Grand river. These are -wild and fertile plains, usually covered with heavy forests of -cotton-wood, sycamore, ash, and sugar-maple, and partly encircled -by the bluffs, rising abruptly, about to the elevation of the -highest trees, thence sloping gradually to the prairies, the -region of the Gramina, and the Cyperacaea. Eighteen miles above -Charaton, is the entrance of Grand river an important tributary to -the Missouri from the north. This river is one hundred and fifty -yards wide at its mouth, and is navigable for boats of small -burthen, about two hundred miles. Its waters are transparent, -except in times of high floods, and its current less rapid than -that of the Missouri. There are no settlements on its banks, -except at the mouth, where is a trading house, and the residence -of a single family. The lands are, however, of a good quality, and -the adequate supply of timber, and numerous springs of water, will -ensure their speedy settlement. The Sauks, Foxes, and Ioways, hunt -in the plains towards the sources of Grand river, where elk and -deer are still numerous, and the latter dispose of their pelfries -to the traders on the Missouri.[124] - -The navigation of the Missouri, for a few miles above and below -the mouth of Grand river, is supposed to be more difficult than at -almost any other place, owing to the rapidity of the current, and -the numerous sand-bars and snags. Two miles above the confluence -is the channel called Grand river {92} Cut-Off, so thickly set -with snags as to be almost impassable. The distance by the Cut-Off -to the head of the island is three-fourths of a mile; by the -course of the river to the same point it is six miles.[125] We -followed the old channel, which is much obstructed by trunks of -trees and sand-bars, and after a few hours succeeded in ascending -this dangerous pass. Compact limestone, and argillaceous -sandstone, occur frequently along the Missouri, above the mouth of -Grand river, and indications of coal are often met with. In a -country affording but an insufficient supply of timber for the -consumption of a dense population, these extensive beds of fossil -coal will be considered of great value, and the necessities of the -inhabitants will lead to their early exploration. Whenever the -dominion of man is sufficiently established in these vast plains -to prevent the annual ravages of fires, trees will spring up; but -we may expect that before forests originating in this manner can -arrive at maturity, the population along the banks of the Missouri -will become so dense, as to require the greater part of the soil -for the purposes of culture. - -The beds of coal in this district lie horizontally, varying much -in thickness, and occurring often at an elevation of a few feet -above the surface of the water in the Missouri.[126] - -On the first of August we arrived at Fort Osage, one hundred and -five miles above the mouth of Grand river. Here Mr. Say and his -party had been some days encamped, having arrived on the 24th of -July from their equestrian journey across the country from -Franklin. After leaving that place on the 19th, they passed -through a fine bottom on the left side of the river, closely -covered with forests of oaks, elms, hackberry, walnut, the -mulberry, the gleditschia, the guilandina, and the other trees -common on the Missouri, for twelve miles, when they arrived at -Arrow rock, where is a ferry by which they crossed {93} the -Missouri. In this walk they passed a field of corn, containing -seven hundred acres. The ferry boat used at Arrow rock is one -peculiarly adapted to the navigation of a rapid stream. It -consists of two canoes, on which rests a platform, with a slight -railing to prevent cattle from falling off. - -Arrow rock is so called from its having been formerly resorted to, -by the neighbouring Indians, for the stone used to point their -arrows. It is a beautiful situation, and rises to considerable -elevation above the water.[127] From its summit is a pleasing view -of the river, and near the base is a remarkable eddy, which, as -they were crossing, whirled their ferry-boat entirely round. On -the second day they left their encampment at an early hour, and -travelled forward through plains where very few trees were to be -seen. They turned off from the Osage trace, in which they had been -travelling, and went eight miles to visit the salt-works, and some -remarkable diggings, on the saline fork of the Le Mine. Here, at -one establishment, one hundred bushels of salt are manufactured -per week; eight men are employed, and one hundred and eighty -gallons of water are evaporated to produce a bushel of salt.[128] - - -Two miles from the confluence of the Camp Fork with the Saline, -are the salt-works, and the residence of Mr. Lockhart, who -received the detachment with much hospitality. - -His works were not then in operation, but were sufficiently -extensive for the manufacture of five hundred bushels of salt per -week. Near his house are the _diggings_ so often mentioned in this -region as objects of curiosity. These are irregular, but very -numerous excavations of little depth, but evidently the result of -the united labours of many persons who were possessed of -instruments of iron and steel, as no others could have penetrated, -and removed the compact rocky soil, of which the points and brows -of the hills are composed. These excavations occur frequently {94} -in an extent of two or three miles; and from the amount of labour -which appears to have been expended on them, it has been thought -by some, that several hundred men must have been occupied two or -three years in digging them; but this is, doubtless, much -overrated. Whoever were the labourers; it is probable their search -was for the precious metals, though at present no indications of -any metallic ores, except of a little iron, are perceptible about -the diggings. Mr. Lockhart had sunk a shaft to the depth of -twenty-two feet, but the appearances continued the same as at the -surface.[129] - -After travelling forty miles from Arrow rock, for great part of -the way through open plains, where the high grass and weeds -rendered their progress difficult and laborious, they pitched -their tent, on the evening of July 21st, on a branch of the Le -Mine. Here they saw four Mississippi kites. The forks of the tail -of this bird are so much elongated as to resemble some fortuitous -appendage, for which, at first sight, they are often mistaken. -Sandhill cranes, and flocks of prairie hens were also seen, but -were so shy as not to be taken without much difficulty. - -The country about the Le Mine is beautiful and fertile. The -unaccustomed eye, in roving over those extensive undulating -prairies, is beguiled by the alternation of forests and meadows, -arranged with an appearance of order, as if by the labour of men, -and seeks in vain to repose upon some cottage or mansion embosomed -in the little copses of trees, or in the edge of the forest, which -margins the small streams and ravines in the distance. - -Their provisions being nearly exhausted, the detachment delayed a -short time at their encampment on the Le Mine, to replenish their -stock by hunting. This camp was near a place called the Grand -Pass, a narrow neck of prairie between the timber of the Saline, -and that of a small creek discharging directly {95} into the -Missouri. Here the Osage trace passes, and a little beyond falls -into a waggon-road leading to the Tabeau settlement.[130] - -On the 22nd Major Biddle experienced a severe attack of cramp in -the stomach, but soon found some relief from swallowing a -quantity of ginger, the only medicine with which they were -provided. On the following day they entered the forests of the -Missouri bottom, and soon after crossed the Tabeau, where a town -of the same name, at that time containing two houses, had been -established. Tabeau is the name of a Canadian hunter, who formerly -frequented this region.[131] The creek is navigable to the site of -the projected town, about one mile from the Missouri, having for -this distance about six feet of water. Four miles from this place -they crossed the Little Tabeau, and at evening pitched their tent -on a stream called the Little Chenal au Barre, about a mile and a -half from the Missouri. Here is a good mill seat. The Great and -Little Chenal au Barre, are two creeks entering the Missouri about -a mile and a half from each other. Before the mouths of these two -creeks is a large island, the slough or Chenal dividing this -island from the shore, received the additional name of Au Barre -from a hunter known by that appellation, who was lost here for -some time, successively ascending the two creeks, which he mistook -for the Missouri; hence the name of Chenal au Barre island, Great -and Little Chenal au Barre Creek, &c.[132] - -In the afternoon they halted to rest at the cabin of a hunter -on Fire Prairie Creek, so called from the circumstance of three -or four Indians having been burned to death by the sudden -conflagration of the dry grass in the meadows at its source.[133] -Here Mr. Say had an opportunity to examine a young black wolf, -which was confined by a chain at the door of the hut. These -animals are common in this part of the country. This individual -was one of five that had been taken from the same den. It had -become {96} familiar with the hunter and his family, but was shy -towards strangers. When fed on meat the ferocity of his disposition -manifested itself in attempts to bite the children. It was -ordinarily fed on bread and milk. - -This man had been settled here two years, but had not "made a -crop," having subsisted himself and his family by hunting, wherein -he had been very successful. In the preceding autumn he had killed -seventy deer and fifty bears. He took great pleasure in relating -his hunting adventures, particularly his engagements with bears. -One bear which he had killed, he said, weighed seven hundred -pounds; but in this instance he was probably mistaken. He had seen -in the winter of 1818, a large herd of bisons near the Grand Pass; -but they had been driven down by the severity of the weather, and -were not ordinarily to be found within the limits of his hunting -excursions. During the severe wintry weather, he affirmed that -bears make for themselves a shelter of brushwood, into which they -creep to secure themselves from the cold. - -From May until July the female of the common deer conceals her -young whilst she goes to feed. It is at this time that the hunters -take advantage of the maternal feelings of the animal to secure -their prey. They conceal themselves and imitate the cry of the -fawn. The solicitude of the parent animal for her young overcomes -her usual care for her own safety; and believing she hears the -cries of her offspring in distress, she hurries toward the spot -where the hunter lies concealed, and falls an easy prey.[134] - -Mr. Say and his companions were very politely received by Col. -Chambers, then at Fort Osage. The rifle regiment was encamped -here, waiting the arrival of the contractor's boats.[135] - -Fort Osage was established in 1808, by Gov. Lewis. It stands on an -elevated bluff, commanding a beautiful view of the river, both -above and below. The {97} works are a stockade, of an irregular -pentagonal form, with strong log pickets perforated with -loop-holes; two block houses are placed at opposite angles; one of -them, however, flanks one of its curtains too obliquely to be of -much service in defending it. There is also a small bastion at a -third angle. Within are two series of buildings for quarters, -store-houses, &c. The position of the fort is not a secure one, on -account of numerous ravines and declivities that would cover an -enemy within a short distance; but is such, that boats ascending -or descending the river must be exposed to its fire. The stream in -the middle of the river, and on the opposite side, is so -remarkably rapid, that it is in vain to contend against it with -the oar or paddle; it is, therefore, usually necessary for -ascending boats to enter the eddy, which brings them within -musket-shot of the fort.[136] - -At the time of our journey, Fort Osage, which, according to our -estimate, is one hundred and forty-two miles, by the course of the -river, above Charaton, was the extreme frontier of the settlements. -For a great distance below, the establishments of the white -settlers were confined to the immediate banks of the Missouri. The -inhabitants of this frontier are mostly emigrants from Tennessee, -and are hospitable to strangers. Many of them are possessed of -considerable wealth. In the inhabitants of the new States and -Territories there is a manifest propensity, particularly in the -males, to remove westward, for which it is not easy to account. -The women, having their attention directed almost exclusively to -domestic pursuits, form local attachments, and establish habits, -which are not interrupted without occasioning some disquietude. -They are at first discontented in their new abode; in a few weeks -they become reconciled, but less attached than to their former -home; and, at length, by the habit of frequent migration, they {98} -acquire the same fondness for an adventurous unsettled life, as -characterises the men. - -Daniel Boon, whose history is connected with that of all the new -settlements from Kentucky westward, answered to an inquiry -concerning the cause of his frequent change of residence, "I think -it time to remove when I can no longer fall a tree for fuel, so -that its top will lie within a few yards of the door of my -cabin."[137] The charms of that mode of life, wherein the -artificial wants and the uneasy restraints inseparable from a -crowded population are not known, wherein we feel ourselves -dependent immediately and solely on the bounty of nature, and the -strength of our own arm, will not be appreciated by those to whom -they are known only from description, though they never fail to -make an impression upon such as have acquired a knowledge of them -from experience. A settler on the Missouri observed to us, that -the land he at present occupied was not better than that he had -left in Tennessee; but he did not wish to spend all his life in -one place, and he had learned from experience, that a man might -live in greater ease and freedom where his neighbours were not -very numerous. - -A person upwards of sixty years old, who had recently arrived at -one of the highest settlements of the Missouri, inquired of us -very particularly of the river Platte, and of the quality of the -lands about its source. We discovered that he had the most serious -intention of removing with his family to that river. On the last -day of July and the first of August, about two inches of rain -fell: the prevailing winds were from the north-east; but the -superior strata of the atmosphere carried clouds of different -descriptions in different, and sometimes opposite directions. The -moon soon after rising, passed behind a long dense body of cirrus -clouds, that floated over the eastern horizon. Long and distinct -radii were soon after seen converging to a point fifteen or twenty -of {99} the moon's diameters to the eastward of its disk. Such is -the refracting power of the aqueous vapors sometimes suspended in -the atmosphere. - -Horizontal strata of sandstone and compact lime stone, are -disclosed in the cliffs on both sides the valley of the Missouri. -These rocks contain numerous remains of caryophilla, productus, -and terebratulae.[138] - -Some days passed after our arrival at Fort Osage, before the -weather admitted our making the astronomical observations -necessary to ascertain its position. The mean of the results of -several observations of the meridian altitude of the sun's lower -limb gave 39 deg. 9' 33-1/2" north, for the latitude of the place. - - -FOOTNOTES: - - [119] In a letter addressed to Mr. Frazer, an extract - from which was published in the tenth volume of the London - Journal of Literature and the Arts, Dr. Baldwin mentions - having discovered near Monte Video, in South America, the - _Solanum Tuberosum_ in its native locality. Mr. Lambert, - however, considered this plant as the _Solanum Commersoni_ of - Dunal; and though it produces tuberous roots, and in other - respects makes a near approach to S. tuberosum, he was not - satisfied of their identity, and remarks that it is yet to be - proved, that this is the stock from which the common potatoe - has been derived. It appears, however, that the original - locality of the solanum tuberosum has been ascertained by Ruiz - and Pavon, after having escaped the observation of Humboldt - and Bonpland.--JAMES. - - - [120] Frederick Pursh was born in Siberia, in 1774. Coming to - the United States at the age of twenty-five, he spent twelve - years in botanical studies, the results of which were published - in England under the title _Flora Americae Septentrionalis, or - a Systematic Arrangement and Description of the Plants of North - America_ (London, 2 vols., 1814). Pursh died at Montreal in - 1820, while preparing a flora of Canada. - - For sketch of Muhlenberg, see F. A. Michaux's _Travels_, in our - volume iii, note 9. - - Aime Bonpland (1773-1858) was a French scientist and traveller. - It has been said that the expedition of Humboldt and Bonpland - in tropical America (1799-1804) "laid the foundation of the - sciences of physical geography and meteorology in their larger - bearings." The fruit of their joint labors appeared at Paris - in 1807, under the title _Voyage aux regions equinoxiales du - nouveau continent_.--ED. - - - [121] Above Cote Sans Dessein, we saw frequently the Juglans - nigra, and J. pubescens, called white hickory; also a species of - Crataegus, which, though sometimes seen in Pennsylvania, appears - to be hitherto undescribed. Its fruit is large, yellow when - ripe, and of an agreeable flavour. On the evening of the 11th we - anchored opposite a steep bank, which I was assisted to climb; - but night came on, and put an end to our herbarizations before I - had the opportunity to collect any thing interesting. The soil - here is a dark vegetable mould, at least five feet in depth, and - little intermixed with sand. I ascended the same bank on the - following morning, but found nothing except a species of Carex - that I do not recollect to have seen before. - - After getting under weigh, we passed high calcareous bluffs on - the left side of the river, covered with timber, and reminding - us of the deep umbrageous forests within the tropics. - - Franklin, July 15th. Portulacca sativa, Solanum nigrum, - Urticapumila, Datura strammonium, and Phytolacca decandra, - occur by the road side. Blackberries were now ripe, but not - well-flavoured. Campanula Americana, the large Vernonia - mentioned at Cote Sans Dessein, now flowering. - - Some plants were brought in, among which we distinguished the - Monarda fistulosa, Achillea millefolia, Cacalia atriplicifolia, - called "horse-mint," Queria canadensis, Menispermum lyoni, - Verbena urticifolia. The Annona triloba is frequent about - Franklin; also the Laurus benzoin, and the Symphoria now - in flower, the Rhus glabrum, Cercis canadensis, Ampelousis - quinquefolia, Eupatorium purpureum, in flower. Cucubalus - stellatus, still flowering. The Prickly-fruited Aesculus has - nearly ripened its nut, Zanthoxylon clava herculis, in fruit, a - "wild gourd" not in flower. - - July 26th. The Gleditschia is a small tree here; Geum album, - Myosotis virginiana, Amaranthus hybridus, Erigeron canadense, - Solanum carolinianum, very luxuriant and still flowering. The - leaf of the Tilia glabra I found to measure thirteen inches in - length, and eleven in breadth. Bignonia radicans, Dioscorea - villosa, a Helianthus with a leaf margined with spines, the - narrow-leaved Brachystemum, the Lyatris pycnostachia, Rudbeckia - purpurea, and various others in flower. Juglans porcina and - cinerea, Ostrya virginica, Rhus copallinum.--August 4th. Dr. - Lowry informed me he has seen Pyrus coronaria, forty feet in - height, in the forests about Franklin. He showed me a Rudbeckia - about three feet high with a cone of dark purple flowers, - probably a new species. - - 5th. Eupatorium hieracifolium beginning to flower, Menispermum - canadense, here called "sarsaparilla," its slender yellow roots - being substituted for that article. - - 6th. A Mimulus is found here resembling M. ringens, but the - leaves are not sessile; peduncle very short, flowers large, - pink-coloured, stem acutely quadrangular; Campanula Americana, - three and a half feet high.--JAMES. - - - [122] The name of this river has undergone many changes, - appearing as Charleton, Charlatan, Cheraton, Charliton, - Chareton, and Charlotte; the form Chariton has now become fixed. - The origin is unknown. - - The town here mentioned, two miles north of Glasgow, was laid - out by Duff Green, a famous Jacksonian politician, and other - associates. The growth was for a few years so rapid that one - settler exchanged St. Louis lots for an equal number in - Chariton; but the location proved unhealthful, and was - abandoned in 1829. Monticello, on higher ground, a mile away, - and Thorntonsburg, at the mouth of the Chariton, were founded - in succession, but likewise disappeared. Glasgow, laid out in - 1836, was the first permanent town in the vicinity.--ED. - - - [123] The Des Moines River. The Illinois Indians called their - habitat Moingona. The French contracted this to les Moins, and - called this stream la Riviere des Moins. Later the name became - associated with the Trappist monks (moines), and by a play on - words was changed to la Riviere des Moines.--ED. - - - [124] On the Sauk and Foxes, see Bradbury's _Travels_, in our - volume v, note 21. For the Iowa, see Brackenridge's _Journal_, - in our volume vi, note 13.--ED. - - - [125] Changes in the river have obliterated the channel here - called the Cut-Off.--ED. - - - [126] The coal-fields of Missouri have an area of about - twenty-six thousand square miles; a line drawn southwest - from the mouth of the Des Moines River to Vernon County - roughly bounds the district. Northwest of this line every - county contains coal, and there are outlying patches on the - southeast.--ED. - - - [127] Arrow Rock (the Pierre a fleche of early French explorers) - stands on the west side of the river, in Saline County. The - first settlements in the county were made in the neighboring - bottoms, and the earliest ferry west of Franklin crossed the - river at this point. The rock gave its name to a town founded - in 1829, which for a time was the county seat and an important - shipping point.--ED. - - - [128] Le Mine (Lamine, or La Mine) River empties into - the Missouri seven miles above Booneville, Cooper County. - Renaudiere named the stream Riviere a la Mine, in 1723. It is - about a hundred and thirty miles long. Salt Fork, here called - "saline fork," the principal tributary, crosses Saline county - roughly parallel with the Missouri.--ED. - - - [129] In 1720 Philip Renault, director-general of mines of the - French colonies in America, sent prospecting parties from Fort - Chartres, into Missouri and Arkansas, to seek gold and silver. - These curious "diggings" are by some supposed to have been made - by his men. Charles Lockhart, mentioned in the text, employed a - number of men in 1819 in digging over some of these old pits, - but without making any important discoveries.--ED. - - - [130] Grand Pass received its name from the fact that the Osage - trace, connecting farther west with the Santa Fe trail, here - followed the narrow divide between Salt Fork and the Missouri - bottom. This "pass" is about a mile and a half long, and in one - place so narrow that a stone can be thrown across. A hotel was - built here in 1835, and a small village now occupies the spot. - For a short time during a flood in 1875, part of the water of - Salt Fork flowed across the divide.--ED. - - - [131] The entire courses of both the Tabeau and Little Tabeau - are within Lafayette County. The mouth of the larger is near the - boundary between Ray and Carroll counties. The name is sometimes - erroneously spelled Tabo and Tebo.--ED. - - - [132] For derivation of this name, see Brackenridge's _Journal_, - in our volume vi, note 14.--ED. - - - [133] This stream debouches at the boundary between Jackson and - Lafayette counties, south of the Missouri. Its name is usually - shortened to Fire Creek. Lewis and Clark applied the name Fire - Prairie Creek to a stream which entered from the north. No - stream nearer than Clear Creek, or Fishing Creek, five miles - above Fire Creek, answers their description.--ED. - - - [134] A variety of this species, the Cervus Virginianus, three - specimens of which occurred at Engineer cantonment, had all - the feet white near the hoofs, and extending to them on the - hind part from a little above the spurious hoofs. This white - extremity was divided upon the sides of the foot by the general - colour of the leg, which extended down near to the hoof, leaving - a white triangle in front, of which the point was elevated - rather higher than the spurious hoofs. The black mark upon the - lower lip, rather behind the middle of the sides, was strongly - noted-- - - ft. in. - Total length, exclusive of hair, at tip of tail 5 4-3/4 - Ear, from the upper part of the head 0 6-1/2 - Tail, from lateral base, exclusive of the hair 0 9-1/2 - Hind foot, from tip of os calcus to tip of toe 1 6-1/4 - Fore arm 1 11-7/8 - Weight, in February, 115lbs. - - This species, common as it is, was never figured, nor indeed - very well described, until the year 1819, when it appeared in - the valuable work of Messrs. Geoffroy and F. Cuvier (Hist. - Nat. des Mammiferes, 2d liv.) Its highest northern range is - Canada, in North America; and it is found as far south as the - river Orinoco, in South America. - - This species is leanest in February and March, and in best - condition in October and November. The rutting season - commences in November, and continues about one month, ceasing - generally about the middle of December. During this season the - neck of the male becomes much dilated. - - The fawn, towards autumn, loses its spots; and the hair - becomes grayish, and lengthens in the winter. In this state - the deer is said by the hunters to be _in the gray_. This coat - is shed in the latter part of May and beginning of June, and - is then substituted by the reddish coat. In this state the - animal is said to be _in the red_. Towards the last of August - the old bucks begin to change to the dark bluish colour; the - doe commences this change a week or two later. In this state - they are said to be _in the blue_. This coat gradually - lengthens until it comes again to the _gray_. The skin is said - to be toughest in the _red_, thickest in the _blue_, and - thinnest in the _gray_. The blue skin is most valuable. - - The horns are cast in January. They lose the velvet the last of - September and beginning of October. About the middle of March, - Mr. Peale shot a large doe, in the matrix of which were three - perfectly formed young, of the size of a rabbit.--JAMES. - - - [135] This rifle regiment, under Colonel Talbot Chambers, was a - contingent of the troops assigned to the Yellowstone expedition. - See preface.--ED. - - - [136] Fort Osage was surrounded by a tract six miles square. It - was the only government trading factory west of the Mississippi. - The post was occupied at intervals until 1827, when it was - superseded by Fort Leavenworth and permanently abandoned. The - site was near that of the present town of Sibley, Jackson - County, which was named in honor of George C. Sibley (see volume - v of our series, note 36), who was (1818-25) government agent at - Fort Osage. The distance above Chariton River, by the government - survey of the Missouri, is a hundred and twenty miles. See our - volume v, note 31.--ED. - - - [137] A sketch of Boone as a Missouri pioneer will be found in - Bradbury's _Travels_, in our volume v, note 16.--ED. - - - [138] From Fort Osage. - - _Productus spinosus_, SAY.--Longitudinally and transversely - subequally striated, the transverse striae somewhat larger than - the others; a few remote short spines, or acute tubercles, on - the surface, arising from the longitudinal striae. - - Breadth an inch and a half; the striae are somewhat indistinct-- - as in No. 5. - - _Productus incurvus_, SAY.--Shell much compressed; hinge margin - nearly rectilinear; surface of the valves longitudinally - striated; convex valve longitudinally indented in the middle; - the beak prominent and incurved at tip; opposite valve with a - longitudinal prominence in the middle; the beak incurved into - the hinge beneath the other beak, and distant from it. - - Width more than 2-2/5 inches. A few univalves also occurred, but - they were so extremely imperfect that their genera could not be - made out. - - A dark-coloured carbonate of lime, containing small Terebratulae - like the T. ovata of Sowerby, but less than half as long. - - No. 1. a mass of carbonate of lime, containing segments of - encrinites in small ossicula. - - 6. A Caryophylla of a single star, about four inches long, of an - irregularly transversely undulated surface, imperfect at each - end, but seems to have been attached at base. Near the base it - is bent at an angle of about 45 degrees. - - Some small and young specimens of the Terebratula, like T. - subundata of Sowerby. - - Miliolites centralis. SAY. - - 12. Astrea. A species of very minute alveoles. From the state - of the petrifaction no radii are perceptible, so that the - genus is not determinable. - - Saltworks near Arrow Rock. Columnar segments of the Encrinus. - - Inferior portion of the head of A. Pentramea. SAY. - - Segments of the column of an oval encrinus, much narrower in - the middle than the oval vertebra of an encrinite represented - by Parkinson, Vol. 2. pl. 13. f. 40.--resembling those of the - genus _Platycrinites_ of Miller.--JAMES. - - - - -{100} CHAPTER VI - - Mouth of the Konzas--Arrival at Wolf River--Journey by land - from Fort Osage to the village of the Konzas. - - -Wishing to extend our examinations between Fort Osage and the -Konzas river, also between that river and the Platte, a party was -detached from the steam-boat, with instructions to cross the -Konzas at the Konza village, thence to traverse the country by the -nearest route to the Platte, and to descend that river to the -Missouri. The party consisted of Mr. Say, to whom the command was -entrusted, Messrs. Jessup, Peale, and Seymour, Cadet Swift, Mr. J. -Dougherty, and five soldiers. They were furnished with three -pack-horses, and a supply of provisions for ten days. Thus -organized and equipped, they commenced their march on the -afternoon of August 6th, accompanied by Major Biddle and his -servant. - -After their departure, the steam-boat was delayed a few days at -Fort Osage. On the ninth, a part of the troops destined for the -Missouri service arrived in keel-boats. Colonel Chambers, with the -principal part of his regiment, were still at Fort Osage, awaiting -the arrival of supplies of provisions now daily expected. - -On the following day we resumed our journey, and were accompanied -about ten miles by Mr. Sibley, agent of Indian affairs, and his -lady, to whom the gentlemen of the party were indebted for -numerous hospitable attentions during their stay at Fort Osage; -also by Captain Bissel, and Lieutenant Pentland,[139] of the rifle -regiment, who returned in a skiff. Our progress was much impeded -by shoals and rapids in the {101} river, but we succeeded in -passing these without warping, and anchored at sunset, having -ascended eighteen miles. - -Between Fort Osage and the mouth of the Konzas river, a distance -of about fifty-two miles, are many rapid places in the Missouri. -We were able to ascend all these, except one, without towing. It -was with some difficulty we supplied our furnace with wood of a -suitable quality. The forests of the Missouri, though limited in -extent, are deep and shady, and though the atmosphere is -perceptibly less humid than in the forests of the Mississippi, -fallen trees, whose wood is soft and porous like that of the -linden and cotton tree, absorb much moisture from the ground. It -was only when we were so fortunate as to find a dry mulberry, ash, -or cotton-wood still standing, that we could procure fuel well -adapted to our purpose. Much time was of necessity expended in -cutting and bringing on board our supplies of this article, and -the additional delay occasioned by the numerous obstacles to the -easy navigation of the river, made our ascent somewhat tedious. - -The mouth of the Konzas river was so filled with mud, deposited by -the late flood in the Missouri, as scarcely to admit the passage -of our boat, though with some difficulty we ascended that river -about a mile, and then returning dropped anchor opposite its -mouth. The spring freshets subside in the Konzas, the Osage, and -all those tributaries that do not derive their sources from the -Rocky Mountains, before the Missouri reaches its greatest fulness; -consequently the waters of the latter river, charged with mud, -flow into the mouths of its tributaries, and there becoming nearly -stagnant, deposit an extensive accumulation of mud and slime. The -Konzas river has a considerable resemblance to the Missouri; but -its current is more moderate, and the water less turbid, except at -times of high floods. Its valley, like that of the Missouri, has a -deep and fertile soil, bearing similar {102} forests of -cotton-wood, sycamore, &c., interspersed with meadows; but, in -ascending, trees become more and more scattered, and at length -disappear almost entirely, the country, at its sources, being one -immense prairie.[140] - -We sailed from the mouth of the Konzas on the 13th of August. -Numerous sand-bars occur in the Missouri above that point, and -these occasioned us some delay. The water having fallen several -feet, we had less velocity of current to contend against, but -found it more necessary to keep in the channel, and could not so -often take advantage of the eddy currents below the points and -along the shore. - -A party of white hunters were encamped on the Missouri, not far -above the Konzas. In the rudeness of their deportment and dress, -they appeared to us to surpass the savages themselves. They are -usually the most abandoned and worthless among the whites who -adopt the life of wandering hunters: frequently they are men whose -crimes have excluded them from society. - -Eighteen miles above the Konzas river, and five above the Little -Platte, is a large island, which, from its rhombic form, has -received the name of Diamond island. The principal channel is on -the north side. It is difficult to pass, being much obstructed by -sand-bars. Four miles above this is a small group, called the -Three Islands; and two miles further another cluster, known as the -Four Islands, and by the French as the Isles des Parcs, or Field -Islands. At each of these places, as in the neighbourhood of -islands generally, the navigation is difficult.[141] - -The site of an old village of the Konzas, and the remains of a -fortification erected by the French, were pointed out a few miles -below Isle au Vache. This island, which lies about one hundred -miles above Fort Osage, was the wintering post of Capt. Martin's -detachment, destined to proceed in advance of the troops ordered -to the Missouri. Captain Martin, {103} with three companies of the -rifle regiment, left Bellefontain in September 1818, and arrived -at Isle au Vache in October, with the expectation of resuming his -march as early in the following spring as the weather would -permit. But not having received the necessary supplies of -provisions as anticipated, they had been compelled to remain till -the time of our arrival, subsisting themselves principally by -hunting. Fortunately this part of the country afforded so much -game, that a competent supply was easily obtained. Between two and -three thousand deer, beside great numbers of bears, turkies, &c., -had been taken. The arrival of the boats, laden with provisions, -now furnished them the means of continuing their ascent, and they -had the prospect of departing within a few days.[142] - -Previous to our departure from Fort Osage, Major O'Fallon, the -Indian agent who accompanied us, had sent a messenger across the -country by land to the Konzas nation of Indians, residing on the -Konzas river, summoning their chiefs to a council, to be held at -Isle au Vache, on the arrival of the Western Engineer.[143] -Agreeably to the message sent by an interpreter, the Indians had -been expected on the 18th, but did not arrive until the 23d of -August, having been absent, when the messenger reached their -village, on a hunting excursion. As soon as they received the -invitation, they repaired with all convenient speed to the -appointed place, having sent runners before, to apprise us of -their approach. - -The interpreter, who returned with them, brought intelligence of -the safe arrival of Mr. Say and his party, and of their kind -reception at the Konza village. We were sorry to learn that Mr. -Say had been in ill health, and had not entirely recovered. - -On the 24th, the chiefs and principal men of the Konzas, to the -number of one hundred and fifty, assembled under an arbour -prepared for their reception. The Indian agent addressed them in a -speech {104} adapted to the occasion, setting forth the causes of -complaint which they had given by their repeated insults and -depredations upon the whites, giving them notice of the approach -of a military force, of sufficient strength to chastise their -insolence, and advising them to seize the present opportunity of -averting the vengeance they deserved by proper concessions, and by -their future good behaviour to conciliate those, whose friendship -they would have so much occasion to desire. - -The replies of the chiefs were simple and short, expressive of -their conviction of the justice of the complaints made against -them, and of their acquiescence in the terms of reconciliation -proposed by the agent. There were present at this council one -hundred and sixty-one Konzas, including chiefs and warriors, and -thirteen Osages. The most distinguished men were Na-he-da-ba, or -_Long Neck_, one of the principal chiefs. Ka-he-ga-wa-ta-ning-ga, -_Little Chief_, second in rank. Shon-ga-ne-ga, who had been one of -the principal chiefs, but had resigned his authority in favour of -Ka-he-ga-wa-ta-ning-ga. Wa-ha-che-ra, _Big Knife_, a partizan or -leader of war parties. Wom-pa-wa-ra, _He who scares all men_, more -commonly known to the whites as Plume Blanche, or White Plume, a -man rising rapidly in importance, and apparently destined to -become the leader of the nation.[144] In addition to the Indians, -the officers of the garrison and a few gentlemen were present at -the council. The ceremonies were commenced by a discharge of -ordnance from the steamboat; the flags were hoisted in their -appropriate places, a council flag being placed near the chair -occupied by the agent. The Indians appeared gratified at the -displays made on the occasion, but their attention was more -particularly aroused by the exhibition of a few rockets and -shells, fired for their entertainment. At our departure, which, on -account of the Indians, was delayed until the 25th of August, many -{105} of them were present, and manifested some surprise at -witnessing the operations of the steam-boat.[145] - -It was thought advisable to make some addition to our force at -Isle au Vache, as we should soon be in advance of the troops on -the Missouri, and might be exposed to insults and depredations, -from some of the numerous tribes of Indians. Accordingly, on -application to Colonel Morgan, a boat and fifteen men, under the -command of Lieutenant Fields, were detailed for this duty, and -directed to regulate their movements agreeably to the orders of -the commanding officer of the exploring expedition.[146] These men -were furnished with provisions for sixty days, and having -embarked on board a keel-boat, called the General Smith, they -sailed in company with the Western Engineer. A favourable wind -springing up, we proceeded in the course of the day about -twenty-three miles, and encamped at night near the entrance of a -small stream, called Independence Creek. A little above, and on -the south side of the river, is the site of an old Konza town, -formerly called the village of the Twenty-four.[147] Above Cow -Island the Missouri is more serpentine in direction than below, -and the difficulties of the navigation we found by no means -diminished as we ascended. The bed of the river in many places is -broad, and the water distributed into small channels separated by -sand-bars. About fifty miles above Cow Island we passed a spot -that had lately been occupied as a hunting camp by Captain Martin, -who had been here to procure the requisite provisions for the -subsistence of his party. - -At the Yellow Banks we found the bluffs elevated about one hundred -and fifty feet above the surface of the valley.[148] Barometric -observations, several times repeated, gave nearly the same result -at some points below. One hundred and fifty feet may, therefore, -be assumed as the medium depth of the immediate valley of the -Missouri; its aggregate width, for the {106} first five hundred -miles above the Mississippi, may be estimated at about three -miles. The corresponding appearances in the strata of the opposite -sides of this valley, as well as its entire form and character, -indicate it to have been formed by the river. But far more than -that vast body of soil and of rocky strata, which formerly filled -the space now occupied by the immediate valley of the river, has -been removed by the Missouri. From the summit of the bluffs there -is a sloping ascent towards the interior of the country; and it is -probable the aggregate elevation of the great plains is not less -than three hundred feet above the surface of the river. If we -admit that this great valley, with its numerous ramifications, has -resulted from the operation of currents, wearing down and -transporting to the ocean the solid materials of the earth's -surface, it would appear necessary still farther to acknowledge -that this channel was once much deeper than at present, for we -usually meet with thick alluvial depositions covering the rocks -that line the bottom of the Missouri valley. The manifest tendency -of the operation of the Mississippi, at this time, upon its -valley, is to fill up rather than to excavate; but it may be -doubted whether this is equally, or even to any degree, the case -with the Missouri. The aggregate mass of alluvion within the -valley of the Missouri is, undoubtedly, moving downwards, with -considerable rapidity; for the quantity of earthy matter carried -into the Mississippi is, at all times, very great. In their -descent the alluvial substances are alternately deposited and -swept away, as by the variations in the direction of the current -any particular point is, from time to time, either exposed to, or -sheltered from, the action of the stream. - -About eighty-seven miles above Cow Island is the mouth of the -Nodowa, a river of some importance, being about seventy yards -wide, and navigable to some distance. It is not usually seen in -passing, being {107} concealed by the island called the Great -Nodowa, which is about five miles long, and covered with heavy -forests. The lands on the Nodowa are of an excellent quality.[149] - -On the 1st of September, we were under the necessity of remaining -encamped near the mouth of Wolf river,[150] that some repairs -might be made to the steam engine. Here we sent out some persons -to hunt, who after a short time returned, having taken a deer, a -turkey, and three swarms of bees, which afforded us about half a -barrel of honey. On the trees which margin the river, we -frequently observed a fine species of squirrel, which possesses -all the graceful activity of the common gray squirrel, as it leaps -from bough to bough.[151] After our machinery was adjusted, we -resumed our ascent, and had proceeded a short distance, when we -were hailed from shore by Mr. Dougherty, who had accompanied Mr. -Say's party across the country. We were not a little surprised at -this unexpected meeting, and were apprehensive some disaster had -befallen the detachment. - -Mr. Dougherty being received on board, informed us that Mr. Peale, -Mr. Swift, Mr. Seymour, Chaboneau the Indian interpreter,[152] and -one of the soldiers, were at a little distance in the rear, having -accompanied him across the country, from Cow Island, where they -had arrived five days after our departure. Mr. Say and Mr. Jessup -had been left sick at Cow Island. We encamped immediately, to give -those who were near an opportunity of joining us. It will now be -necessary to return to the time of Mr. Say's departure from Fort -Osage, and briefly to trace the progress of his detachment to the -place where a rencontre with a war-party of Pawnees frustrated -their design, and made it necessary for them to rejoin the -steam-boat. - -Mr. Say's detachment, consisting of twelve men and a boy, -furnished with three pack-horses for the {108} transportation of -baggage, departed from Fort Osage on the evening of August 6th. -Their route lay westward across the woodless plains about the -sources of the Hay Cabin, Blue Water, and Warreruza Creek. The -cliffs along the Blue Water are naked perpendicular rocks. In the -vallies numerous Indian encampments occurred, which appeared not -long since to have been occupied. These were most frequently seen -at the points, where the streams making almost a complete circuit, -and nearly enclosing a small tract of ground, afforded an -important protection against the approach of an enemy. The -prairies about the head waters of the Warreruza abound in game. -Here ravens were first seen by the party, and numbers of large -banded rattlesnakes were killed. The blowing flies swarmed in -inconceivable numbers, attacking not only the provision of the -party, but depositing their eggs upon the blankets, clothing, and -even on the furniture of the horses. On the 11th of August they -arrived at some elevated ridges, from which they overlooked an -extensive country, and could trace the whole course of the -Wahrengeho, or Full Creek, diverging slightly from the Konzas, and -could readily perceive timber upon several of its head branches. -The lands between the head waters of Full Creek and the Konzas are -not so good as those about the sources of the Warreruza, and -produce less timber. The settlement of this region will be much -retarded on account of the want of trees, these being confined to -the margins of the watercourses, while tracts of valuable soil, of -many miles in extent, have not a single tree or bush upon them. -The soil is, however, well adapted to the culture of some of our -most valuable forest trees. The sugar-maple, and several of the -most important species of carya, the oaks, the tulip-tree, and the -linden, would unquestionably succeed.[153] - -In consequence of the excessive heat of the weather, the great -fatigues of the party, and their constant {109} exposure in the -open plains, the health of several of them began to be impaired. -The high and coarse grasses, which now covered the plains, greatly -impeded their progress, and very rapidly destroyed their clothing -and mockasins. Their journey was, therefore, slow and laborious. -On the night of the 13th they encamped on the bank of the Konzas, -having travelled some distance parallel to the course of that -river. The next day several of the party, already much debilitated, -began to be afflicted with dysentery; some accidents also occurred -to retard their progress, and on that and the following day they -advanced only two miles. On the 16th they marched about fifteen -miles, and encamped on the bank of the Konzas. Being now in doubt -as to the situation of the Konza village, and the illness of some -of the party continuing, they determined to remain encamped, while -some persons should be sent out to reconnoitre the country, and -discover, if possible, whether that part of the river at which -they had arrived, was above or below the village they designed -to visit.[154] The Konzas river, in this part, bears the closest -resemblance to the Missouri, both in the turbulence and rapidity of -its current, and the aspect of the country along its banks; it is, -however, so shoal as at almost any point to admit of being forded -without difficulty. - -Willow islands, moving sand-bars, and _falling-in_ banks, are as -frequent as in the Missouri. The line of forest which skirts the -banks, including the bed of the river, is about half a mile wide, -but not entirely uninterrupted. The course of the river is -remarkably serpentine, forming woodland points alternately on both -sides. - -After crossing and recrossing the river, and extending their -search in every direction, they had the satisfaction at last to -fall in with a beaten path leading up the river, and which their -guide and interpreter was confident would conduct them to the -Konza village. - -{110} On the morning of the 19th, they passed across a wide and -fertile prairie to the Vermillion, a stream which enters the -Konzas from the north-west. It is four feet deep, and about twenty -yards wide.[155] Here they halted in the middle of the day, and -dined on the flesh of a black wolf, the only game they were able -to procure. - -About Vermillion Creek are some open forests of oak, not extending -far on either side. The trees are from fifteen to twenty-five feet -high, and from one foot to eighteen inches in diameter, standing -at a considerable distance from each other. - -On the day following, the Konza village was descried at a -distance. The detachment immediately halted to arrange their -dress, and inspect their firearms. This was thought the more -necessary, as no party of whites had visited the village since a -number of the Konzas had received a whipping at Isle au Vache, and -it was a matter of doubt, whether the party would meet a friendly -reception. - -As they approached the village, they perceived the tops of the -lodges red with the crowds of natives; the chiefs and warriors -came rushing out on horseback, painted and decorated, and followed -by great numbers on foot. Mr. Say and his party were received -with the utmost cordiality, and conducted into the village by the -chiefs, who went before and on each side, to protect them from the -encroachments of the crowd. On entering the village the crowd -readily gave way before the party, but followed them into the -lodge assigned to them, and completely and most densely filled the -spacious apartment, with the exception only of a small space -opposite to the entrance, where the party seated themselves on the -beds, still protected from the pressure of the crowd by the -chiefs, who took their seats on the ground immediately before -them. After the ceremony of smoking with the latter, the object -which the party had in view in passing through their territories -was explained to them, and {111} seemed to be perfectly -satisfactory. At the lodge of the principal chief they were -regaled with jerked bison meat and boiled corn, and were -afterwards invited to six feasts in immediate succession. -Chaboneau and the old Frenchman, who had been despatched from Fort -Osage, to summon the Konzas to meet the agent at Isle au Vache, -had arrived some days previous; but the nation being at that time -absent on a hunting excursion, the interpreters, after reaching -the village, had proceeded immediately into the plains in pursuit -of them. At the time of the arrival of our detachment, the village -was in confusion, the hunters having lately returned, and being -then engaged in preparations for the journey to Isle au Vache. Two -runners were despatched to give notice to Major O'Fallon, that his -summons had been received; and at the same time the chiefs and -principal warriors departed for the place appointed. Before his -departure, the principal chief was careful to appoint a fit person -to attend Mr. Say's party, and arrangements were made to promote -their comfort and convenience, while they should remain at the -village. - -Many reports had been circulated among the Konzas respecting the -invitation to council their chiefs had received. They were -conscious of having recently offended, by firing on Major -O'Fallon, and by insulting and plundering several soldiers of -Captain Martin's command. For these offences they had been in some -measure punished at the time, Major O'Fallon having returned their -fire from his boat, and not entirely without effect, as was -supposed; several also had been flogged by the orders of Captain -Martin; yet they did not consider themselves secure from the -vengeance of the whites. Many believed that at the time of the -anticipated council, barrels of gunpowder were to be placed in the -earth to destroy them at once. The two runners, who had been -despatched, quarrelled before they had gone far; one saying, all -{112} the things that had been told them by the interpreters were -lies, for which assertion he was struck to the ground by his -companion. In this situation they were found by the advancing -chiefs. Finally, a dispute happened between the chiefs themselves -respecting rank, in consequence of which ten or twelve of them -returned to the village. - -Mr. Say, who spent some time among the Konzas, gives, in his -notes, the following account of that nation: - - "The approach to the village is over a fine level prairie of - considerable extent; passing which, you ascend an abrupt bank - of the height of ten feet to a second level, on which the - village is situate in the distance, within about one-fourth of - a mile of the river. It consists of about a hundred and twenty - lodges, placed as closely together as convenient, and - destitute of any regularity of arrangement. The ground area - of each lodge is circular, and is excavated to the depth of - from one to three feet, and the general form of the exterior - may be denominated hemispheric. - - "The lodge in which we reside is larger than any other in the - town, and being that of a grand chief, it serves as a - council-house for the nation. The roof is supported by two - series of pillars, or rough vertical posts, forked at top for - the reception of the transverse connecting pieces of each - series; twelve of these pillars form the outer series, placed - in a circle; and eight longer ones the inner series, also - describing a circle; the outer wall, of rude frame-work, - placed at a proper distance from the exterior series of - pillars, is five or six feet high. Poles, as thick as the leg - at base, rest with their butts upon the wall, extending on the - cross-pieces, which are upheld by the pillars of the two - series, and are of sufficient length to reach nearly to the - summit. These poles are very numerous, and, agreeably to the - position which we have indicated, they are placed all round in - a radiating {113} manner, and support the roof like rafters. - Across these are laid long and slender sticks or twigs, - attached parallel to each other by means of bark cord; these - are covered by mats made of long grass, or reeds, or with the - bark of trees; the whole is then covered completely over with - earth, which, near the ground, is banked up to the eaves. A - hole is permitted to remain in the middle of the roof to give - exit to the smoke. Around the walls of the interior, a - continuous series of mats are suspended; these are of neat - workmanship, composed of a soft reed united by bark cord, in - straight or undulated lines, between which lines of black - paint sometimes occur. The bedsteads are elevated to the - height of a common seat from the ground, and are about six - feet wide; they extend in an uninterrupted line around - three-fourths of the circumference of the apartment, and are - formed in the simplest manner of numerous sticks, or slender - pieces of wood resting at their ends on cross pieces, which - are supported by short notched or forked posts, driven into - the ground; bison-skins supply them with a comfortable - bedding. Several medicine or mystic bags are carefully - attached to the mats of the wall; these are cylindrical, and - neatly bound up; several reeds are usually placed upon them, - and a human scalp serves for their fringe and tassels. Of - their contents we know nothing. - - "The fire-place is a simple shallow cavity, in the centre of - the apartment, with an upright and a projecting arm for the - support of the culinary apparatus. The latter is very simple - in kind, and limited in quantity, consisting of a brass - kettle, an iron pot, and wooden bowls and spoons; each person, - male as well as female, carries a large knife in the girdle of - the breech cloth behind, which is used at their meals, and - sometimes for self-defence. During our stay with these Indians - they ate four or five times each day, invariably supplying us - with the best pieces, or choice {114} parts, before they - attempted to taste the food themselves. - - "They commonly placed before us a sort of soup, composed of - maize of the present season, of that description which, having - undergone a certain preparation, is appropriately named sweet - corn, boiled in water, and enriched with a few slices of bison - meat, grease, and some beans, and to suit it to our palates, - it was generally seasoned with rock salt, which is procured - near the Arkansa river. - - "This mixture constituted an agreeable food; it was served up - to us in large wooden bowls, which were placed on bison robes - or mats, on the ground; as many of us as could conveniently - eat from one bowl sat round it, each in as easy a position as - he could contrive, and in common we partook of its contents by - means of large spoons made of bison horn. We were sometimes - supplied with uncooked dried meat of the bison, also a very - agreeable food, and to our taste and reminiscence, far - preferable to the flesh of the domestic ox. Another very - acceptable dish was called _leyed corn_; this is maize of the - preceding season _shelled_ from the cob, and first boiled for - a short time in a ley of wood-ashes until the hard skin, which - invests the grains, is separated from them; the whole is then - poured into a basket, which is repeatedly dipped into clean - water, until the ley and skins are removed; the remainder is - then boiled in water until so soft as to be edible. They also - make much use of maize roasted on the cob, of boiled pumpkins, - of musk-melons, and water-melons, but the latter are generally - pulled from the vine before they are completely ripe. - - "Ca-ega-wa-tan-ninga, or the Fool Chief, is the hereditary - principal chief, but he possesses nothing like monarchical - authority, maintaining his distinction only by his bravery and - good conduct. There are ten or twelve inferior chieftains, or - persons who aspire to such dignity, but these do not appear to - {115} command any great respect from the people. Civil as well - as military distinction arises from bravery or generosity. - Controversies are decided amongst themselves; they do not - appeal to their chief, excepting for counsel. They will not - marry any of their kindred, however remote. The females, - before marriage, labour in the fields, and serve their - parents, carry wood and water, and attend to the culinary - duties; when the eldest daughter marries, she commands the - lodge, the mother, and all the sisters; the latter are to be - also the wives of the same individual. When a young man wishes - to marry a particular female, his father gives a feast to a - few persons, generally old men, and acquaints them with his - design; they repair to the girl, who generally feigns an - unwillingness to marry, and urges such reasons as her poverty, - youth, &c.--the old men are often obliged to return six or - seven times before they can effect their object. When her - consent is obtained, the parents of the young man take two or - three blankets and some meat to the parents of the female that - they may feast, and immediately return to their lodge. The - parents put on the meat to cook, and place the same quantity - of meat and merchandize on two horses, and dress their - daughter in the best garments they can afford; she mounts one - of the horses, and leads the other, and is preceded by a crier - announcing, with a loud voice, the marriage of the young - couple, naming them, to the people; in this way she goes to - the habitation of her husband, whose parents take from her - every thing she brings, strip her entirely naked, dress her - again in clothes as good as she brought, furnish her with two - other horses, with meat and merchandize, and she returns with - her crier to her parents. These two horses she retains as her - own, together with all the articles she brings back with her. - Her parents then make a feast, to which they invite the - husband, his parents and friends; the young couple are seated - together, and {116} all then partake of the good cheer, after - which the father of the girl makes a harangue, in which he - informs the young man that he must now assume the command of - the lodge, and of every thing belonging to him and his - daughter. All the merchandize which the bride returned with, - is distributed in presents from herself to the kindred of her - husband in their first visit. The husband then invites the - relatives of his wife to a feast. Whatever peltries the father - possesses are at the disposal of the son to trade with on his - own account; and in every respect the parents, in many - instances, become subservient to the young man. - - "After the death of the husband the widow scarifies herself, - rubs her person with clay, and becomes negligent of her dress, - until the expiration of a year, when the eldest brother of the - deceased takes her to wife without any ceremony, considers her - children as his own, and takes her and them to his house; if - the deceased left no brother, she marries whom she pleases. - They have, in some instances, four or five wives; but these - are mostly sisters; if they marry into two families the wives - do not harmonize well together, and give the husband much - inquietude; there is, however, no restriction in this respect, - except in the prudence of the husband. The grandfather and - grandmother are very fond of their grandchildren, but these - have very little respect for them. The female children respect - and obey their parents; but the males are very disobedient, - and the more obstinate they are, and the less readily they - comply with the commands of their parents, the more the latter - seem to be pleased, saying, 'He will be a brave man, a great - warrior; he will not be controlled.' - - "The attachment of fraternity is as strong, if not stronger, - than with us. The niece has great deference for the uncle. The - female calls her mother's sister _mother_, and her mother's - brother _uncle_. The male calls his father's brother _father_, - his father's sister [106] _aunt_, his mother's sister - _mother_, and his mother's brother _uncle_. Thirteen children - have occurred in one family. A woman had three children at a - birth; all lived. - - "The young men are generally coupled out as friends; the tie - is very permanent, and continues often throughout life. - - "They bear sickness and pain with great fortitude, seldom - uttering a complaint; bystanders sympathize with them, and try - every means to relieve them. Insanity is unknown; the blind - are taken care of by their friends and the nation generally, - and are well dressed and fed. Drunkenness is rare, and is much - ridiculed; a drunken man is said to be bereft of his reason, - and is avoided. As to the origin of the nation, their belief - is, that the Master of life formed a man, and placed him on - the earth; he was solitary, and cried to the Master of life - for a companion, who sent him down a woman; from the union of - these two proceeded a son and daughter, who were married, and - built themselves a lodge distinct from that of their parents; - all the nations proceeded from them, excepting the whites, - whose origin they pretend not to know. When a man is killed in - battle, the thunder is supposed to take him up, they do not - know where. In going to battle each man traces an imaginary - figure of the thunder on the soil; and he who represents it - incorrectly is killed by the thunder. A person saw this - thunder one day on the ground, with a beautiful mockasin on - each side of it; having much need of a pair, he took them and - went his way; but on his return, by the same spot, the thunder - took him off, and he has not been since heard of. They seem to - have vague notions of the future state. They think that a - brave warrior, or good hunter, will walk in a good path; but a - bad man, or coward, will find a bad path. Thinking the - deceased has far to travel, they bury with his body mockasins, - some articles of food, &c. {118} to support him on the - journey. Many persons, they believe, have become reanimated, - who had been, during their apparent death, in strange - villages; but as the inhabitants used them ill, they returned. - They say they have never seen the Master of life, and - therefore cannot pretend to personify him; but they have often - heard him speak in the thunder; they wear often a shell which - is in honour, or in representation of him, but they do not - pretend that it resembles him, or has any thing in common with - his form, organization, or dimensions. - - "This nation having been at profound peace with the Osages, - since the year 1806,[156] have intermarried freely with them, - so that in stature, features, and customs, they are more and - more closely approaching that people. They are large and - symmetrically well formed, with the usual high cheek bones, - the nose more or less aquiline, colour reddish coppery, the - hair black and straight. Their women are small and homely, - with broad faces. We saw but a single squaw in the village who - had any pretensions to beauty; she was recently married to an - enterprizing warrior, who invited us to a feast, apparently in - order to exhibit his prize to us. The ordinary dress of the - men is a breech cloth of blue or red cloth, secured in its - place by a girdle; a pair of leggings, made of dressed - deer-skin, concealing the leg, excepting a small portion of - the upper part of the thigh; a pair of mockasins made of - dressed deer, elk, or bison-skin, not ornamented; and a - blanket to cover the upper part of the body, often thrown over - one arm in hot weather, leaving that part naked; or it is even - entirely thrown aside. The outer cartilage of the ear is cut - through in three places, and upon the rims, thus separated, - various ornaments are suspended, such as wampum, string beads, - silver or tin trinkets, &c. The hair of most of their chiefs - and warriors is scrupulously removed from the head; being - careful, however, to leave enough, as in honour {119} they are - bound to do, to supply their enemy with a scalp, in case they - should be vanquished. This residuum consists of a portion on - the back of the head, of about the breadth of the hand, - rounded at its upper termination near the top of the head, the - sides rectilinear, and nearly parallel, though slightly - approaching each other towards the origin of the neck, where - it abruptly terminates; on the exterior margin, the hair is - somewhat longer and erect; this strip of hair is variously - decorated; it is sometimes coloured on the margin with - vermilion, sometimes a tail feather of the war eagle is - attached transversely with respect to the head; this feather - is white at base, and black at tip; but the principal - ornament, which appears to be worn by some of their chief - warriors, and which is, at the same time, by far the most - handsome, is the tail of the common deer; this is attached by - the base near to the top of the patch of hair, the back of it - resting on the hair, and the tip secured near the termination - of the patch; the bristly hair of the tail is dyed red by a - beautiful permanent colour, and parted longitudinally in the - middle by a broad silver plate, which is attached at top, and - suffered to hang loose. Many of them are tattooed on different - parts of the body. The young boys are entirely naked, with - the exception of a girdle, generally of cloth, round their - protruding abdomen. This part of the body in the children of - this nation is remarkably prominent; it is more particularly - so when they are very young, but gradually subsides as they - advance in age. In hot weather the men, whilst in the village, - generally use fans, with which they cool themselves, when in - the shade, and protect their heads from the sun whilst walking - out; they are made of the wing or tail of the turkey. The - women rarely use them. The dress of the female is composed of - a pair of mockasins, leggings of blue or red cloth, with a - broad projecting border on the outside, and covering the leg - to the knee, or a {120} little above; many, however, and - perhaps almost a majority of them, do not in common wear this - part of the dress. Around the waist, secured by a belt or - cestus, is wrapped a piece of blue cloth, the sides of which - meet, or come nearly in contact on the outside of the right - thigh, and the whole extends downward as far as the knee, or - to the mid-leg; around the left shoulder is a similar piece of - cloth, which is attached, by two of the corners, at the axilla - of the right arm, and extends downward as far as the waist. - This garment is often laid aside, when the body, from the - waist upward, is entirely exposed. Their hair is suffered to - grow long; it is parted longitudinally on the top of the head, - and flows over the shoulders, the line of separation being - coloured with vermilion. The females, like those of other - aborigines, cultivate the maize, beans, pumpkins, and - water-melons; gather and prepare the two former, when ripe, - and pack them away in skins, or in mats, for keeping; prepare - the flesh of the bison, by drying, for preservation; attend to - all the cooking; bring wood and water; and in other respects - manage the domestic concerns, and appear to have over them - absolute sway. These duties, as far as we could observe, they - not only willingly performed as a mere matter of duty, but - they exhibited in their deportment a degree of pride and - ambition to acquit themselves well; in this respect resembling - a good housewife amongst the civilized fair. Many of them are - tattooed. - - "Both sexes of all ages bathe frequently, and enter the water - indiscriminately. The infant is washed in cold water soon - after its birth, and the ablution is frequently repeated; the - mother also bathes with the same fluid soon after delivery. - The infant is tied down to a board, after the manner of many - of the Indian tribes. - - "The chastity of the young females is guarded by the mother - with the most scrupulous watchfulness, {121} and a violation - of it is a rare occurrence, as it renders the individual unfit - for the wife of a chief, a brave warrior, or good hunter. To - wed her daughter to one of these, each mother is solicitous; - as these qualifications offer the same attractions to the - Indian mother as family and fortune exhibit to the civilized - parent. - - "The men carefully pluck from their chins, axilla of the arms, - eye-brows, &c. every hair of beard that presents itself: this - is done with a spiral wire, which, when used, is placed with - the side upon the part, and the ends are pressed towards each - other so as to close the spires upon the hairs, which can then - be readily drawn out; this instrument we observed to be an - article of dress of the chiefs, who departed to attend the - council at the Isle au Vache." - - -FOOTNOTES: - - [139] For Bissel, see Cuming's _Tour_, in our volume iv, note - 182. - - Charles Pentland, of Pennsylvania, served during the War of - 1812-15 as ensign and third lieutenant in the 4th Rifles. - Retained in 1815, he was in 1821 transferred to the 6th - Infantry, in which, two years later, he became captain. He was - dismissed in 1826.--ED. - - - [140] The Kansas River and its tributaries drain most of the - state of the same name. It heads in the prairies of eastern - Colorado, and joins the Missouri at the point where the latter - enters the State of Missouri. It is still sometimes called the - Kaw. The name appears in various forms on early French maps--as - Cans, Riviere des Kances, Riviere des Quans, etc.--ED. - - - [141] The Little Platte (which the French called Petite Riviere - Platte, or Little Shallow River), rises in southern Iowa and - flows south to its confluence with the Missouri in Platte - County. Its mouth is now opposite Diamond Island, for the - channels of the two rivers have, in their shifting, been brought - together several miles above the old confluence. The abandoned - lower channel is still visible. - - Diamond Island is near the Kansas side of the Missouri, on the - line between Leavenworth and Wyandotte counties. - - When Lewis and Clark passed this spot in 1804, the two smaller - islands of the group called Three Islands had but recently - appeared. They are opposite the mouth of Nine Mile Creek, five - or six miles below Leavenworth. The principal member of the - group is Spar Island. - - The Four Islands are in front of Leavenworth, and one of the - largest has the same name as the city.--ED. - - - [142] Isle au Vache (Isle des Vaches, Isle de Vache, Buffalo - Island), now Cow Island, is on the line between Atchison and - Leavenworth counties. - - Wyly Martin, a Tennesseean, had been captain in the 3d Rifle - regiment at the close of the War of 1812-15, and after an - honorable discharge in 1815, had been reinstated the same - year. He was transferred to the 6th Infantry in 1821, and - resigned two years later. - - Lewis and Clark note the site of the Kansa village and French - fort. The former stood in a valley between two high elevations, - and the latter was on another elevation a mile in the rear. They - found few traces of the village, but there remained the general - outline of the fortifications and some ruins of chimneys. It was - near this spot that Fort Leavenworth was established, in 1827. - See Bradbury's _Travels_, in our volume v, note 37.--ED. - - - [143] For the early history of the Kansa, see Bradbury's - _Travels_, in our volume v, note 37.--ED. - - - [144] White Plume became the chief of the tribe, and some - fifteen years later was still in power. Catlin, in _North - American Indians_ (London, 1866), ii, p. 23, described him as - urbane and hospitable, and of portly build.--ED. - - - [145] The surprise of the Indians will hardly be cause for - wonder, after reading the following description of the "Western - Engineer," which appeared in the St. Louis _Enquirer_, June 19, - 1819, ten days after the expedition arrived at that place: "The - bow of the vessel exhibits the form of a huge serpent, black and - scaly, rising out of the water from under the boat, his head - as high as the deck, darted forward, his mouth open, vomiting - smoke, and apparently carrying the boat on his back. From under - the boat, at its stern issues a stream of foaming water, dashing - violently along. All the machinery is hid. . . . The boat is - ascending the rapid stream at the rate of three miles an hour. - Neither wind nor human hands are seen to help her; and to the - eye of ignorance the illusion is complete, that a monster of the - deep carries her on his back smoking with fatigue, and lashing - the waves with violent exertion." - - A resident of Franklin, Missouri, thus described the boat and - the impression it made upon the savages: "In place of a - bowsprit, she has carved a great serpent, and as the steam - escapes out of its mouth, it runs out a long tongue, to the - perfect horror of all Indians that see her. They say, 'White - man bad man, keep a great spirit chained and build fire under - it to make it work a boat.'"--ED. - - - [146] Willoughby Morgan, a Virginian, served during the War - of 1812-15 as captain and major of infantry. In 1815 he was - retained in the rifle regiment as captain, with brevet of major, - becoming lieutenant-colonel in 1818. In 1821 he was transferred - to the infantry; he became colonel of the 1st Infantry in 1830, - and died in 1832. - - "Lieutenant Fields" is probably Gabriel Field, whose army record - is given as follows in the registers: "Born in ----. Appointed - from Mo. 2nd Lieut. Rifles, 24 May, 1817; 1st Lieut., 15 April, - 1818; transferred to 6th Infantry, 1 June, 1821; resigned 16 - April, 1823."--ED. - - - [147] Independence Creek owes its name to Lewis and Clark, who - reached this point on July 4, 1804. Its mouth is on the line - between Atchison and Doniphan counties, Kansas. Lewis and Clark - named another small stream, fifteen miles below, Fourth of July - Creek. They also visited the site of the Indian village here - mentioned, and thought it must have been a large one, judging - from the remains.--ED. - - - [148] The color is due to the presence of yellow ochre.--ED. - - - [149] For data relative to the Nodaway River, see Bradbury's - _Travels_, in our volume v, note 5.--ED. - - - [150] The name of Wolf River or Creek (Riviere du Loup of early - French maps), is a translation of the Indian name. The stream - debouches four miles below the town of Iowa Point, in Doniphan - County, Kansas.--ED. - - - [151] _Sciurus macrurus._ SAY.--_Body_ above each side, mixed - gray and black; fur plumbeous, black at base, then pale - cinnamon, then black, then cinereous, with a long black tip; - _ears_ bright ferruginous behind, the colour extending to the - base of the fur, which, in its winter dress, is prominent beyond - the edge; within dull ferruginous, the fur slightly tipped with - black; _side of the head and orbits_ pale ferruginous, cheek - under the eye and ear dusky; _whiskers_ black, in about five - series, of which the four inferior ones are more distinct, - hairs a little flattened; _mouth_ margined with black; _teeth_ - reddish yellow; _head_ beneath, _neck_ and _feet_ above pale - ferruginous; _belly_ paler; fur pale plumbeous at base; _palms_ - black; _toes_, anterior ones four, the thumb tubercle not longer - than its lobe in the palm, and furnished with a broad flat - nail; posterior toes five; _tail_ beneath bright ferruginous, - the colour extending to the base of the fur, with a submarginal - black line; above mixed ferruginous and black; fur within pale - cinnamon, with the base and three bands black; tip ferruginous. - - ft. in. - From nose to tip of tail (exclusive of the hair) 1 7-1/4 - Tail, from base to tip (exclusive of the hair) 9-1/10 - Ear, from head to tip 0-3/4 - - The most common species of squirrel on the banks of the - Missouri river. It is allied to _S. cinereus_, but cannot be - considered as a variety of that species; neither does it - approach any of the numerous varieties of the very variable - _S. capistratus_ of Bosc. - - The fur of the back in the summer dress is from 3/5 to 7/10 of - an inch long; but in the winter dress the longest hairs of the - middle of the back are one inch and 3/4 in length. This - difference in the length of the hairs, combined with a greater - portion of fat, gives to the whole animal a thicker and - shorter appearance; but the colours continue the same, and it - is only in this latter season that the ears are fringed, which - is the necessary consequence of the elongation of the hair. - This species was not an unfrequent article of food at our - frugal yet social meals at Engineer Cantonment, and we could - always immediately distinguish the bones from those of other - animals, by their remarkably red colour. - - The tail is even more voluminous than that of the _S. - cinereus_. - - It seems to approach the _Sc. rufiventer_. _Geoff._ v. Dict. - D. Hist. Nat. article Ecu. p. 104.--JAMES. - - - [152] See sketch of Charbonneau in Brackenridge's _Journal_, - volume vi of our series, note 3.--ED. - - - [153] Hay Cabin Creek and Blue Water are now known respectively - as the Little Blue River and Big Blue River (or Creek; not to - be confounded with the Big Blue of Kansas). Both debouche in - Jackson County, Missouri. The Warreruza is the modern Wakarusa - (the meaning of which is variously given as "thigh deep" and - "river of big weeds"), which flows across Shawnee and Douglas - counties, Kansas, to the northeast corner of the latter. Full - Creek (or River) is the present Upper Mill Creek, another - southern tributary of the Kansas, the mouth of which is in - northeastern Wabaunsee County, by a direct line about fifty - miles above the confluence of the Wakarusa. Pike's chart of - 1806, which Say's party possessed, shows Hay Cabin Creek, Blue - Water, Warreruza, and Full River successively, south of the - Missouri and Kansas. There are several other creeks, however, - between the Blue Water and Warreruza which Pike does not show, - and the Warreruza is a larger stream than his chart indicates. - Say's party apparently mistook one of the small streams for the - Warreruza, and, upon reaching the latter, mistook it in turn for - Full Creek. They could hardly have traced the course of Full - Creek from the lower Warreruza, where they must have been on - August eleventh. This error explains their doubt, while encamped - on the Kansas on August sixteenth, whether they were above or - below the Indian village, which is plainly shown on Pike's chart - as situated at the mouth of Blue Earth (Big Blue) River.--ED. - - - [154] When Say's party reached the Kansas, they had crossed - Johnson and Douglas counties, following the high prairie country - which lies from six to fifteen miles south of the river. The - camp on the thirteenth was probably not far from Lecompton; by - the sixteenth, they must have been near Topeka. - - Big Blue River (Blue Earth on the map), at the mouth of which - the Kansa village stood, rises in Nebraska, flows through - Marshall County, Kansas, and forms the boundary between Riley - and Pottawatomie counties. Near the confluence, a westward bend - of the Big Blue forms a peninsula about two miles long and half - a mile wide, which was the site of the village. A few years - ago the exact locations of the lodges were still indicated by - circular ridges and depressions, from which a map of the village - was prepared (see Kansas Historical Society _Transactions_, - 1881, p. 288). The site was partially abandoned in 1830, and - three villages constructed near Topeka; these in turn were - abandoned when the territory which contained them was ceded to - the United States in 1846.--ED. - - - [155] The Vermillion is a Pottawatomie County stream about - twenty miles east of the Big Blue.--ED. - - - [156] Pike, p. 144.--JAMES. - - _Comment by Ed._ The reference is to _An Account of Expeditions - to the Sources of the Mississippi and through the Western Parts - of Louisiana_, etc. (Philadelphia, 1810). Pike mediated a peace - treaty between the Kansa and Osage, at the Pawnee village on - Republican River, September 28, 1806. - - - - -{122} CHAPTER VII - - Further Account of the Konza Nation--Robbery of Mr. Say's - Detachment by a War-Party of Pawnees--Arrival at the Platte. - - -The Konza warriors, like those of some others of the Missouri -tribes on their departure on a war excursion, sometimes make vows, -binding themselves never to return until they have performed some -feat which they mention, such as killing an enemy, striking an -enemy's dead body, or stealing a horse. An instance lately -occurred of a warrior who had been long absent under a vow of this -sort, and finding it impossible to meet an enemy, and being in a -starving condition, he returned to his own village by night, with -the determination of accomplishing his vow, by killing and -scalping the first person he should meet. This person happened to -be the warrior's own mother, but the darkness of the night -prevented the discovery until he had accomplished his bloody -purpose. - -On the 23d of August, Mr. Say's party began to prepare for leaving -the Konza village, where they had been treated with much -hospitality. They purchased a number of articles for their use on -the journey they proposed to take, such as jerked bison meat, -pounded maize, bison fat put up like sausages, mockasins, -leggings, spoons made of the horn of the bison, two large wooden -dishes, &c. They received also an addition to their cavalcade of -two horses, one belonging to Major O'Fallon, and another which -they procured from a Frenchman residing in the village. - -A Pawnee prisoner, an interesting young man, {123} was brought to -them, who said he was desirous to accompany them to his nation, -but at the same time was afraid his people would not recognize -him, and would kill him for a Konza. He was promised protection, -but at the same time it was remarked to him, that if he should -attempt to steal the horses of the party on the way, they would -certainly pursue him and take his scalp. - -On the 24th, says Mr. Say, having been detained until afternoon in -searching for our horses, we departed, accompanied by several -Indians, who intended to pass the night with us and to return to -the village the following morning. - -Our path led along the margin of Blue Earth Creek, a stream of the -width of twenty-five yards, and greatest depth of three feet, -which discharges into the river a mile or two above the Konza -village. The soil supports but a thin growth of grass, and the -timber is far from abundant, consisting principally of different -sorts of oak, confined to the margin of the creek, its ravines and -tributaries. One of our Indian followers, who, although a chief of -the extinct Missouri nation,[157] has yet much influence with the -Konzas, wished to exchange a horse he had with him for one of -ours, which was evidently a less valuable animal. The reason he -assigned in explanation of his desire of such an apparently -disadvantageous exchange was, that his horse had been presented to -him by a person, who, he feared, intended to reclaim him, but that -if he should exchange him for another horse, he would be secure in -the possession of the individual so obtained, as an Indian will -not reclaim a present which is not identically the same he had -given. At the distance of seven miles from the village, our party -encamped by the side of the creek, in a narrow, but beautiful -and level prairie bottom, which was bounded by an abrupt, though -verdant range of bluffs. - - [Illustration: INDIAN RECORD _of a_ BATTLE _between the PAWNEES - and the KONZAS_. - - A Fac simile _of a Delineation upon a_ BISON ROBE. - - _London, Pub^{d}, by Longman & C^{o.}, 1823_] - -Mr. Dougherty and one of the Indians went in {124} quest of game, -and having supplied the two remaining Indians with a pipe and -tobacco, we were partaking of some refreshment, when one of the -party suddenly drew our attention to an extensive cloud of dust, -which arose from the plain, and which we soon perceived but -partially concealed a body of Indians, who had already approached -within a quarter of a mile, and were now running with great -swiftness. Our Indian followers now displayed all their activity; -the chief seized his gun, and ran towards the advancing multitude -to obtain his horse, which he mounted and rode off at full speed, -whilst his companion disappeared in the bushes in an instant. This -was a sufficient intimation that a hostile party was before us, -and a timely admonition of the approach of danger. Our men were -therefore drawn up in a line, and all prepared themselves for -defence in case of extremity. - -The advancing party were armed, decorated, and painted, for -battle, but they manifested, as they rushed up to us, the most -pacific deportment, shaking us by the hand, putting their arms -about our necks, and raising their hands with the palm towards us, -in token of peace. We were not, however, disposed to rely upon -these assurances of friendship, being fully aware of the -difficulties which their partizans would have to surmount in -checking the inconsiderate prowess of the younger warriors. We now -observed some of them seizing our horses, which were staked at -some distance: they mounted them and rode swiftly in the direction -that the chief had taken, but they soon returned. It soon became -necessary to protect our baggage by arranging ourselves around -it; still, however, in despite of our vigilance, many of our small -articles were stolen. They begged for whiskey and tobacco; and a -small portion of the latter was given them. Amidst the confusion -arising from the incessant and rapid movements of the Indians, we -observed an individual bearing off a small {125} package of very -fine pounded meat; I immediately pointed out the circumstance to -the partizan, and directed him to recover it and punish the thief; -he complied by wresting the meat from the grasp of the latter, and -from that of several others who had been contending for portions -of it, placed it beneath his feet, and defended it with his lance; -but Chabonneau, to whom the meat belonged, declaring that he had -given it to them, they were permitted to retain it. A tent which -had been pitched for me in consideration of my illness, and in -which my blanket, pistols, together with some small articles, had -been deposited, was plundered of its contents; it was finally cut -down, and would have been taken away, had we not made an effort to -preserve it. During the whole transaction those warriors, who -stood at a short distance, intently watched our movements, as if -they were led to believe, from the attitude we assumed, that we -would attempt to repel them, even with our inadequate force. No -sudden action or motion of any one of the party escaped them; and -individuals were frequently observed to draw their arrows to test -the elasticity of the bows. At a critical juncture, a tall and -graceful Indian cocked his gun fiercely, and put his war whistle -to his mouth, but the signal was not blown. Amongst numerous -incidents that occurred during the half hour that we were -surrounded by them, an individual attempted to seize a knapsack -belonging to one of the soldiers, and immediately under his -observation; the latter placed his foot upon the knapsack to -detain it, and at the same time prepared his gun as if to shoot -the offender, who leaped backward with great agility, and with an -ejaculation of pleasure, drew his arrow to the head. The whole -party precipitately retreated just as Mr. Dougherty returned from -hunting; being briefly informed of the nature of their visit, he -called aloud to the fugitives in their own language, but they -passed on without heeding him, taking our {126} horses with them. -I had by a rough estimate fixed their number at one hundred and -forty; they were chiefly armed with the bow and arrow, and lance, -with the usual accompaniments of tomahawks, war-clubs, and knives, -together with a few guns. Fortunately no personal indignity was -offered us; yet we could not repress a sensation of much -mortification at the prospect of a frustration of our enterprise, -which now seemed inevitable, and of extreme vexation at the -irreparable loss of our horses, which no exertions of ours could -have saved: an appeal to arms, except in the last extremity, would -have been the height of imprudence, conquest being hopeless, and -escape almost impossible. - -Soon after their departure Mr. Jessup and Chabonneau set out for -the village to procure assistance, for the purpose of removing our -camp to that place from which we recommenced our journey at a -moment so unpropitious; whilst we busied ourselves in removing the -baggage to a situation amongst the neighbouring bushes, which -appeared favourable for concealment, and for defence, in case of a -night attack, which was confidently anticipated. Several alarms -occurred during the night, and on the return of day we observed -thirty mounted Indians riding swiftly towards us. The chief, who -left us so precipitately the preceding evening, on his arrival at -the village, hastily assembled a little band of warriors for the -purpose of returning immediately to our assistance, and it was he -and his party, that we had now the pleasure to greet. They -expressed great satisfaction, when they learned that we were all -uninjured. After saluting us cordially, they pursued the trail of -the Pawnees for some distance, and from the footsteps in the -grass, and other appearances, to be duly appreciated only by the -eye of an Indian, they estimated the number of the Pawnees at one -hundred and thirty. On their return they restored to us some bacon -and other articles, which had been {127} carried off by the -fugitives, and rejected as not at all to their taste. We were now -supplied with a conveyance for ourselves and our baggage, and were -conducted back to the village. - -The Indians who committed this robbery, were a war-party of the -republican Pawnees, and were about one hundred and forty in -number. Their nation was at war with the Konzas. - -Mr. Say's party were kindly received at the village they had left -on the preceding day. In the evening they had retired to rest in -the lodge set apart for their accommodation, when they were -alarmed by a party of savages rushing in, armed with bows, arrows, -and lances, shouting and yelling in a most frightful manner. The -gentlemen of the party had immediate recourse to their arms; but -observing that some squaws, who were in the lodge, appeared -unmoved, they began to suspect that no molestation to them was -intended. The Indians collected around the fire in the centre of -the lodge, yelling incessantly; at length their howlings assumed -something of a measured tone, and they began to accompany their -voices with a sort of drum and rattles. After singing for some -time, one who appeared to be their leader, struck the post over -the fire with his lance, and they all began to dance, keeping very -exact time with the music. Each warrior had, besides his arms, and -rattles made of strings of deer's hoofs, some part of the -intestines of an animal inflated, and enclosing a few small -stones, which produced a sound like pebbles in a gourd shell. -After dancing round the fire for some time, without appearing to -notice the strangers, they departed, raising the same wolfish -howl, with which they had entered; but their music and their -yelling continued to be heard about the village during the night. - - [Illustration: War Dance in the interior of a Konza Lodge] - -This ceremony, called the _dog dance_, was performed by the Konzas -for the entertainment of their guests. Mr. Seymour took an -opportunity to sketch {128} the attitudes and dresses of the -principal figures.[158] - -Finding it impracticable to obtain horses by purchase, out of -their almost exhausted stock of merchandize, to enable them to -prosecute their march to Council Bluff, after due deliberation, -they saw no alternative, but to endeavour to hire horses on -credit, and to make the best of their way for Cow Island, in hopes -of meeting the steamboat there. A Frenchman, Mr. Gunville, -resident with this nation, agreed to furnish two pack horses, and -a saddle horse for Mr. Say, whose state of health would not admit -of his continuing the journey on foot. Thus furnished they -prepared to depart, and in the meantime two runners were -despatched to inform Major Long of their situation by letter. - -On the 25th of August, Mr. Say and his party again left the Konza -village, accompanied by the French trader, who had furnished them -two horses, and by a Missouri Indian; but this last had followed -them only a few miles, when he repented of his undertaking and -returned. - -In pursuing the most direct route from the Konza village to the -Missouri, they crossed at the distance of seventeen miles, the -Vermilion, a small stream bordered with handsome forests. Nineteen -miles beyond this they arrived at the sources of Grasshopper -Creek, where they encamped on the evening of the 27th.[159] Here -the soil changes somewhat abruptly. The high prairies about the -Vermilion and Blue Earth creeks are barren, almost naked, and -inhabited by some orbicular lizards. About Grasshopper Creek the -soil is fertile, the grass dense and luxuriant. - -On the 29th they arrived at Isle au Vache, and were hospitably -received by Colonel Morgan and the officers of his command, but -had the mortification to learn that Major Long, after waiting a -sufficient time to enable the Indian agent to complete his -negotiations {129} with the Konzas, had departed with the -steam-boat before the arrival of the messengers, that had been -sent to notify him of their disaster. These runners had been -despatched immediately after their arrival, with instructions to -overtake the steam-boat, and to deliver Mr. Say's letter, but -after some days they returned, without having been able to effect -any thing. - -It was now determined that Mr. Say and Mr. Jessup, who on account -of ill health, were unable to travel farther on foot, should for -the present remain at Isle au Vache, while the other gentlemen of -the detachment should continue their journey. Mr. Dougherty, from -his intimate acquaintance with the country, was of opinion that by -crossing in the nearest direction from Isle au Vache to the mouth -of Wolf river, they might yet overtake the steam-boat. They -accordingly placed themselves under his guidance, and, by great -exertion, fortunately arrived at the mouth of Wolf river, on the -evening of the 1st of September, as the steam-boat was passing. - -The country south-west of the Missouri, between the Konzas and the -Platte, is drained principally by Wolf river and the Great -Nemahaw. These rivers, like the Nodowa and Nishnebottona, which -enter the Missouri nearly opposite them from the north-east, rise -in the prairies at an elevation probably of forty or fifty feet -above the level of the Missouri. As they descend, their vallies -becoming gradually wider, embosom a few trees, and at length, near -their entrance into the Missouri valley, are forests of -considerable extent. The surface of these prairies presents a -constant succession of small rounded hills, becoming larger and -more abrupt as you approach the beds of the rivers. The soil is -deep, reposing usually on horizontal beds of argillaceous -sandstone, and secondary limestone. In all the limestones along -the Missouri, we observe a tendency to crystalline structure, and -they have often a reddish or yellowish white {130} colour. There -is, however, always something in the arrangement and in the -aspect of the crystals to distinguish these sparry varieties from -the primitive granular limestone, to which they have something of -general resemblance. The horizontal disposition of the strata of -this limestone, the great numbers of organic relics contained in -it, and its intimate connexion with coal strata, indicate with -sufficient clearness its relation to the secondary rocks. No -person who shall examine this stratum with the least attention, -either about the Nemahaw and the Konzas, or in the mining district -at the sources of the Gasconade, the Merameg, and the St. Francis, -will for a moment mistake it for any of those varieties of -transition or primitive limestone, which it in some respects so -closely resembles. The crystalline varieties, no less than the -compact blue limestones, embrace numerous masses of chert or -hornstone. This occurs of various colours, and these are arranged -in spots or stripes. Some specimens have several distinct colours -arranged in zigzag lines, somewhat resembling the fortification -agate. The hunters use fragments of this stone for gun-flints; the -savages also formerly employed it in the manufacture of arrow -points and other implements.[160] - -The soil superimposed upon these strata of limestone, is a -calcareous loam. Near the rivers it is intermixed with sand; this -is also the case with the soil of the high prairies about the -Konzas village. In ascending the Konzas river, one hundred, or one -hundred and twenty miles from the Missouri, you discover numerous -indications, both in the soil, and its animal and vegetable -productions, of an approach to the borders of that great Sandy -Desert, which stretches eastward from the base of the Rocky -Mountains. You meet there with the orbicular lizard, or "horned -frog," an inhabitant of the arid plains of {131} New Mexico. You -distinguish also some cacti, as well as many of those plants -allied to chenopodium and salsola, which delight in a thirsty -muriatiferous soil. The catalogue of the forest trees belonging to -the vallies of this region is not very copious. The cotton-wood -and the plane tree, every where form conspicuous features of the -forests. With these are intermixed the tall and graceful acacia, -the honey locust, and the bonduc, or coffee-tree,[161] and several -species of juglans, carya and fraxinus, with pinnated or -many-parted leaves. Trees of the family of the coniferae are not of -frequent occurrence on the Missouri. About the summits of rocky -cliffs are here and there a few cedars or junipers, the only trees -that retain their verdure during the winter. - -The prairies, for many miles on each side of the Missouri, produce -abundance of good pasturage; but as far as our observation has -extended, the best soil is a margin from ten to twelve miles in -breadth, along the western bank of the river. In the summer very -little water is to be found in the prairies, all the smaller -streams failing, even though the season be not unusually dry. On -account of the want of wood and of water, the settlements will be -for a long time confined to the immediate vallies of the Missouri, -the Konzas, and the larger rivers; but it is probable, forests -will hereafter be cultivated in those vast woodless regions, -which now form so great a proportion of the country; and wells may -be made to supply the deficiency of running water. - -We have seen at Bellefontain, as well as at several other points -on this river, a pretty species of sparrow, which is altogether -new to us;[162] and several specimens of a serpent have occurred, -which has considerable affinity with the pine-snake of the -southern states, or bull-snake of Bartram.[163] - -Having received on board the detachment that had arrived from the -Konza village, except Messrs. {132} Say and Jessup, who, on -account of ill health, remained at Isle au Vache, we left the -mouth of Wolf river on the 2nd of September. A party of hunters, -furnished with a horse for the transportation of game, were -despatched at the same time with instructions to hunt on the south -side of the river, and to join us again in the evening. We had -little difficulty in procuring a constant supply of venison. Deer -are very numerous on this part of the Missouri, and we had several -opportunities to kill them from on board, as they were swimming -across the river. - -Twenty-one miles above the mouth of Wolf river, and on the same -side, is the entrance of the Grand Nemahaw, a considerable river -which rises in the plains between the Platte and the Republican -Fork of the Konzas river, and running eastwardly about one hundred -and fifty miles, discharges into the Missouri a little north of -latitude forty degrees. In the straightness of its course, the -rapidity and turbulence of its stream, it has a general -resemblance to the other western tributaries of the Missouri. A -few miles above the Nemahaw, and on the opposite side, is the -mouth of the Tarkio, a smaller stream.[164] - -On the 4th of September we were joined by the hunters, who brought -two deer, and informed us they had killed several others. -Lieutenant Field's boat was allowed to remain at the encampment of -the preceding night, after the departure of the steam-boat, for -the purpose of taking on board a large quantity of honey. Swarms -of bees were found here in great numbers, and the honey they -afforded made a valuable addition to our provisions, consisting -now in a great measure of hunters' fare. - -Finding one of the valves of the steam-engine much worn and leaky, -we were now under the necessity of stopping for a day to have a -new one, which we had brought, adapted to its place. Several of -the men amused themselves by hunting and fishing. {133} We had now -a plentiful supply of game, and many large catfish were taken, -some of them weighing more than fifty pounds. - -We passed in succession the mouths of the Nishnebottona and the -Little Nemahaw,[165] and arrived on the 7th at the Grand Pass. -Here the Nishnebottona, a beautiful river about sixty yards wide, -approaches within one hundred and fifty yards of the Missouri, -being separated from it by a sandy prairie, rising scarcely -twenty feet above the surface of the water. After pursuing for a -short distance a parallel course, the two rivers diverge, and the -Nishnebottona meanders along the side of the Missouri valley, about -sixty miles to its confluence with the latter river.[166] From this -point is a pleasing view of the hills called the Baldpated Prairie, -stretching along the north-eastern side of the Nishnebottona, and -diminished to the size of anthills in the distant perspective.[167] -Here the navigation is much obstructed by sand-bars, and the -ordinary current of the Missouri, according to the statement of -Lewis and Clarke, corroborated by our observation, is something -more than one fathom per second.[168] In many places the Missouri -hurries across concealed sand bars and other obstructions, with the -velocity of seven, eight, or even twelve feet in a second.[169] -Between these obstructions, the channel becomes deeper, and the -current more moderate; consequently the aggregate velocity at times -of low water may be reckoned something less than six feet to the -second. As the volume of water is increased by the heavy rains, and -the melting of the snows within the Rocky Mountains, the current is -proportionably accelerated, and becomes more equable, running for -many miles in succession, not less than seven hundred and twenty -feet per minute. At the time of our ascent the summer floods had -not entirely subsided, and in contending against the current, we -found occasion {134} in a few instances to make use of the towing -rope. - -About thirteen miles above the Grand Pass is a point where Lewis -and Clarke witnessed the falling of a portion, about three-fourths -of a mile in length, of a high cliff of sandstone and clay. -Appearances have considerably changed since the time of their -journey. There is still an indentation along the bluff, showing -the upper part of the portion which had slid down, but the whole -is now covered with grass. The river has retired from the base of -the cliff it was then undermining. A grassy plain, of some extent, -occupies the spot where the bed of the river must have been; but -this prairie is, in its turn, experiencing the vicissitude -incident to every thing along the bank of the Missouri, and is -evidently very soon to disappear entirely. A mile or two above -this point are cliffs of sandstone and indurated clay, in a state -of rapid disintegration. Here we observed extensive beds of -aluminous earth, of a dark grey colour, alternating with red and -yellowish white sandstone. Here are also numerous vegetable -remains, which Mr. Say thought to consist of the limbs of trees -included in the rock, carbonized and often intermixed with -pyrites; smaller limbs in short fragments lay intermixed, and -crossing each other in every direction. - -Among other things, we observed here what appeared to be the cast -of the seed vessel of the nelumbium, of uncommon magnitude. -Fragments of mineral coal were observed scattered about the -surface. - -The mouth of the Platte,[170] where we arrived on the 15th of -September is, according to our observations, in latitude 41 deg. -3' 13" north. We shall hereafter have occasion to speak more -particularly of this river. Its mouth now exhibited a great extent -of naked sand-bars, the water, which was transparent and of a -greenish colour, flowing almost unseen through a number of small -channels. Masses of sand accumulate at the mouth of the Platte, -rendering the {135} navigation of the Missouri at that point -extremely difficult. The Platte, during its floods, pours into the -Missouri a volume of water, considerably exceeding in magnitude -that of the latter river, occasioning a reflux of the waters for -many miles. From the Platte upward, the annual range from high to -low water in the Missouri, may be rated at about eighteen feet. - -Above the Platte, the scenery of the Missouri becomes much more -interesting. The bluffs on each side are more elevated and abrupt, -and being absolutely naked, rising into conic points, split by -innumerable ravines, they have an imposing resemblance to groups -of high granitic mountains, seen at a distance. The forests within -the valley are of small extent, interspersed with wide meadows -covered with carices and cyperaceae, with some species of limnetis, -polypogon, and arundo, sometimes sinking into marshes occupied by -sagittarias, alismas, and others of the hydrocharidae. The -woodlands here, as on the whole of the Missouri below, are filled -with great numbers of pea vines,[171] which afford an excellent -pasturage for horses and cattle. The roots of the apios tuberosa -were much sought after, and eaten by the soldiers, who accompanied -us in our ascent. They are little tubers about half an inch in -diameter, and when boiled are very agreeable to the taste. Two and -a half miles above the mouth of the Platte, and on the same side, -is that of the Papilion, a stream of considerable length, but -discharging little water.[172] Here we found two boats belonging -to the Indian traders at St. Louis. They had passed us some days -before, and were to remain for the winter at the mouth of the -Papilion, to trade with the Otoes, Missouries, and other Indians. - - -The banks of the Missouri, above the Platte, have long been -frequented by the Indians, either as places {136} of permanent or -occasional residence. Deserted encampments are often seen. On the -north-east side, near the mouth of Mosquito river, are the remains -of an old Ioway village. Four miles above, and on the opposite -side, was formerly a village of the Otoes. On the 17th of -September we arrived at the trading establishment of the Missouri -Fur Company, known as Fort Lisa, and occupied by Mr. Manuel Lisa, -one of the most active persons engaged in the Missouri fur trade. -We were received by a salute from this establishment, and encamped -a little above, on the same side of the river.[173] - - -FOOTNOTES: - - [157] For sketch of the Missouri Indians, see Bradbury's - _Travels_, in our volume v, note 26.--ED. - - - [158] For a description of the dog dance of the Sioux, see - Smithsonian Institution _Report_, 1885, part ii, pp. 307, - 308.--ED. - - - [159] Grasshopper Creek rises near the northern line of the - state, its mouth being in Jefferson County, opposite Lecompton. - The name was changed to Delaware River when the tribe of that - name was removed to its lower course. - - The route of the party on its return may have been across - Pottawatomie and Jackson counties, and through southern - Atchison; or, more probably, northern Jefferson and Leavenworth - counties.--ED. - - - [160] Jessup's MS. Report.--JAMES. - - - [161] The guilandina dioica of Linn., Marshall, &c. but referred - by Michaux to the new genus gymnocladus, of which it is the only - well ascertained species. It is common throughout the western - states, and territories, and in Canada, where it is called by - the French Chicot, or stump tree, from the nakedness of its - appearance in winter. In the English gardens, where it has been - cultivated many years under the name of the hardy bonduc, it has - attained considerable magnitude, but has not hitherto been known - to produce flowers.--JAMES. - - - [162] _Fringilla grammaca_, SAY.--Above blackish-brown; _head_ - lineated; beneath white, a black line from the inferior base - of the inferior mandible, above this a dilated white line; - from the angle of the mouth proceeds a black line, which is - much dilated and ferruginous behind the eye, and terminates - in a contracted black line; a black line from the eye to the - superior mandible, enclosed, as well as the eye, by a dilated - white line, which is more contracted behind the eye; top of - the head with two dilated lines, which are black on the front - and ferruginous on the crown and hind head, and separated from - each other by a cinereous line; interscapulars and lesser wing - coverts margined with dull cinereous or brownish; _wings_ dusky - brown, a white spot on the outer webs of the second, third, and - fourth primaries, near their bases; _back_ dirty olive-brown; - _tail_ rounded; _tail feathers_ twelve, blackish-brown, two - intermediate ones immaculate, adjoining ones with a small white - spot at tip, which, on the lateral ones, increases in size until - on the exterior one it occupies half of the total length of - the feather; the exterior web of the outer feather is white to - its base; _chin_ and _throat_ white; _neck_ and _breast_ dull - cinereous; _abdomen_ and _vent_ white; _feet_ pale, tinged with - orange; nail of the middle toe slightly dilated on the inner - side. - - Length six and a quarter inches. - - Shot at Belle Fontain on the Missouri. Many specimens were - obtained. The auriculars of the female are yellowish-brown. - They run upon the ground like a lark, seldom fly into a tree, - and sing sweetly. They were subsequently observed at Engineer - Cantonment.--JAMES. - - - [163] _Coluber obsoletus_, SAY.--_Body_ black above, beneath - whitish, with large subquadrate black spots, which are - confluent, and pale bluish towards the tail; _throat_ and _neck_ - pure white; _sides_ between the scales with red marks. - - Description. _Body_ black, _anterior half_ with a series of - continuous, dilated dull-red large circles, formed upon the - skin between the scales, on the side; on many of the scales, - are white marginal dashes near their bases: these scales are - placed in groups each side of the vertebrae of the anterior - moiety of the body; _scales_ bipunctured at tip; _beneath_ - flat, so as to produce an angle or carnia each side; white - slightly tinged with yellowish red, irrorate with black - points, and spotted with large oblong quadrate marks, which - gradually become more continuous, confluent and plumbeous - towards the tail, occupying nearly the whole surface; _head_ - beneath and _throat_ pure white; posterior _canthus_ of the - eye two-scaled; _iris_ blackish; _pupil_ deep-blued black, - enclosed by a silvery line. - - One specimen, Pl. 228 -- Sc. 67 ? - Another specimen Pl. 233 -- Sc. 84 - Another specimen Pl. 228 -- Sc. 84 - Total length -- 4 feet 11-5/8 inches. - Tail length 4 feet 10-1/8 inches. - - The lateral red marks are not perceptible, unless the skin be - dilated so as to separate the scales; and the small white - marginal lines on the bases of some of the scales are - observable only on close inspection. It varies in being nearly - or quite destitute of spots on the anterior portion of the - body beneath, but the posterior half of the inferior surface - still remains blackish. The whole animal bears strong - resemblance to C. _constrictor_; but the scales are decidedly - smaller, and the number of its plates and scales approach it - still more closely to that uncertain species C. _ovivorus_. It - is not an uncommon species on the Missouri from the vicinity - of Isle au Vache to Council Bluff. - - _Penis_ terminated by a hemisphere, covered with compressed, - white spines, which are reflected at tip; the series interrupted - on the posterior side of the member by a canal; _it_ is much - dilated, dark reddish brown, abruptly contracted at base from - the exterior side, and with a prominent tubercle on the middle - of the inner side: length one inch and a quarter, width about - seven-sixteenths of an inch.--JAMES. - - - [164] The Grand Nemahaw, now usually called Big Nemaha, does not - rise so far to the west as is here implied. Its sources are in - Lancaster County, Nebraska, almost directly north of the mouth - of Republican River. The confluence of the Big Nemaha is just - above the Kansas-Nebraska line. - - There are two streams (Big and Little) called Tarkio Creek. - They flow parallel through Atchison and Holt counties, - Missouri. The mouth of the Big Tarkio is opposite that of the - Big Nemaha; that of the Little Tarkio is now about eleven - miles below, but the channel is very changeable. Tarkio is - said to mean "full of walnuts."--ED. - - - [165] The Little Nemaha flows through the Nebraska county of - the same name; its mouth is between the towns of Aspinwall and - Nemaha.--ED. - - - [166] Nishnabotna is an Indian word signifying "canoe making - river." Fifteen years earlier, Lewis and Clark found the - divide between the rivers about three hundred yards wide. At - that time the mouth of the Nishnabotna was on the line between - Atchison and Holt counties, Missouri. Since then its waters - have found their way across Grand Pass, and the old channel - below that point has been abandoned. In 1804 the main current - of the Missouri ran north of L'Isle Chauve (Bald Island), the - middle of which lay opposite Grand Pass. The channel now runs - south of this island, while the Nishnabotna, reaching the old - channel of the Missouri at the middle of the island, follows it - to the confluence of the island's foot. This was the condition - in 1879 (see _Map of the Missouri River_, from the government - survey, plates xx and xxi), but the channels are constantly - shifting.--ED. - - - [167] Lewis and Clark applied the name "Bald Hills" to "the - ridge of naked hills" here described, and "Bald-pated Prairie" - to the low lands at their base.--ED. - - - [168] Lewis and Clarke, vol. i. p. 28.--JAMES. - - _Comment by Ed._ The reference is to Biddle's _History of the - Expedition under the Command of Captains Lewis and Clark to - the Sources of the Missouri_, etc. (Philadelphia, 1814). See - also Thwaites, _Original Journals of the Lewis and Clark - Expedition_ (New York, 1904). - - - [169] This velocity of current is equalled by that of - the Cassiquiare in South America, and probably surpassed by - the Oronoko, the average descent of whose bed is thirteen - inches to the mile of 950 toises (6 feet 4.376 inches per - toise). See Humb. Pers. Nar. vol. v. p. 637, and vol. iv. p. - 452. La Condamine and Major Rennel suppose the mean descent of - the Amazon and the Ganges, scarce four or five inches to the - mile, which is about equal to that of the Mississippi, - according to the most satisfactory estimates we have been able - to make.--JAMES. - - - [170] Platte River (sometimes called Flatwater and Nebraska, all - three names having the same meaning) is the largest tributary - of the Missouri. It joins the latter between Sarpy and Cass - counties, Nebraska, 640.8 miles from the Mississippi. Its - mouth is taken as the line between the "upper" and "lower" - Missouri.--ED. - - - [171] Species of apios, the glycine of Lin.--JAMES. - - - [172] See Bradbury's _Travels_, in our volume v, note 40.--ED. - - - [173] The Mosquito is on the Iowa side, in Pottawatomie County, - its mouth being a few miles below Council Bluffs. - - For the Oto Indians, Missouri Fur Company, and Manuel Lisa, - see Bradbury's _Travels_, in our volume v, notes 42, 149, 64 - respectively. Lisa established the post named for him, in - 1812, and for a decade it was the most important trading - station on the Missouri. It stood about twenty miles above the - present town of Council Bluffs (Iowa), on the opposite side of - the river.--ED. - - - - -{137} CHAPTER VIII - - Winter cantonment near Council Bluff--Councils with the Otoes, - Missouries, Ioways, Pawnees, &c. - - -The position selected for the establishment of winter quarters for -the exploring party, was on the west bank of the Missouri, about -half a mile above Fort Lisa, five miles below Council Bluff, and -three miles above the mouth of Boyer's river.[174] At this place -we anchored on the 19th of September, and in a few days had made -great progress in cutting timber, quarrying stone, and other -preparations for the construction of quarters. - -Cliffs of sparry limestone rise in the rear of the site we had -selected, to an elevation of near three hundred feet.[175] At -times of low water, strata of horizontal sandstone are disclosed -in the bed of the Missouri. These pass under and support the -limestone. Both these strata probably extend in connexion, some -distance to the west; but as they are deeply covered with soil, we -could not accurately ascertain their boundary in that direction. -On the map accompanying this work, we have traced a line running -from the Canadian river of the Arkansa, to the Elk Horn, between -96 deg. and 98 deg. west longitude, and marking what we supposed -nearly the westernmost limit of the horizontal limestones, and the -argillaceous sandstones, disclosed in the beds of the larger -rivers. - -{138} Both these strata embrace numerous relics of marine animals, -many of which we collected.[176] - -Immediately after our arrival, an interpreter had been sent across -the country, to intercept the traders then on their way to the -Pawnees, with considerable quantities of merchandize. It was -thought proper to suspend all intercourse with those Indians, -until an adjustment of the recent difficulties should take place. -In addition to the outrage committed on Mr. Say's party, they had -made prisoners of two white hunters from the Arkansa, a father and -son, who had been found hunting in the Indian territories. These -men had been liberated through the interference of some of the -members of the Missouri Fur Company, and had recently arrived at -Fort Lisa. During their captivity, they had been treated with -such severity by the Pawnees, that they had often entreated an end -might be put to their lives. - -The interpreter returned on the 20th, having accomplished the -object of his mission. Soon afterwards, Mr. Dougherty arrived from -the Oto village, whither he had been sent with a deputation to -Konzas, to aid in effecting a reconciliation between those -nations. This proposition, which originated with the Konzas, was -favourably received by the Otoes. Mr. D. was soon afterwards -despatched to the Pawnees, with instructions to demand of them the -property plundered from Mr. Say's party, also to require that the -persons who had committed that outrage should be given up. He was -accompanied by two Frenchmen acquainted with the Pawnees and their -language. - -A party of Otoes arrived at Fort Lisa on the 26th of September, -with pack-horses laden with pelfries, and bringing with them a -soldier, who, having been accidentally separated from a small -detachment that were driving some beeves from Martin's Cantonments, -towards Council Bluff, had wandered about in the prairie for five -days, without tasting food, {139} when he at last had the good -fortune to fall in with the Otoes, who hospitably fed and conducted -him to the trading house. - -The Council Bluff, so called by Lewis and Clarke, from a council -with the Otoes and Missouries held there on the 3d of August 1804, -is a remarkable bank rising abruptly from the brink of the river, -to an elevation of about one hundred and fifty feet. This is a -most beautiful position, having two important military features, -security, and a complete command of the river. Its defects are a -want of wood within a convenient distance, there being little -within a mile above, and much farther below, also a want of stone -and of water, except that of the river. From the summits of the -hills, about one mile in the rear of the bluff, is presented the -view of a most extensive and beautiful landscape. The bluffs on -the east side of the river exhibit a chain of peaks stretching as -far as the eye can reach. The river is here and there seen -meandering in serpentine folds, along its broad valley, chequered -with woodlands and prairies, while at a nearer view you look down -on an extensive plain interspersed with a few scattered copses or -bushes, and terminated at a distance by the Council Bluff. - -This position is about five miles above that selected for the -wintering post of the exploring party. At the last mentioned -place, a very narrow plain or beach, closely covered with trees, -intervenes between the immediate bank of the river and the bluffs, -which rise near two hundred feet, but are so gradually sloped as -to be ascended without great difficulty, and are also covered with -trees. This spot presented numerous advantages for the cantonment -of a small party like ours. Here were abundant supplies of wood -and stone, immediately on the spot where we wished to erect our -cabins, and the situation was sheltered by the high bluffs from -the north-west winds. The place was called Engineer Cantonment. -{140} On the 26th of September, Mr. Say and Mr. Jessup arrived in -the flotilla from Cow Island, in company with Col. Morgan, Dr. -Gale, and Captain Magee.[177] They had both nearly recovered their -health, and entertained the liveliest sense of the eminent -politeness and hospitality which had been conferred on them by the -above named gentlemen, as well as the other officers of the -military expedition. - -About one hundred Otoes, together with a deputation of the Ioway -nation, who had been summoned to a council by Major O'Fallon, -presented themselves at our camp on the 3d of October. The -principal chiefs advanced before their people, and upon invitation -seated themselves. After a short interval of silence Shonga-tonga, -the Big Horse, a large portly Indian of a commanding presence, -arose and said, "My father, your children have come to dance -before your tent, agreeably to our custom of honouring brave or -distinguished persons." - -After a suitable reply, by Major O'Fallon, the amusement of dancing -was commenced by the striking up of their rude instrumental and -vocal music; the former consisting of a gong made of a large keg, -over one of the ends of which a skin was stretched, which was -struck by a small stick; and another instrument, consisting of a -stick of firm wood, notched like a saw, over the teeth of which -a smaller stick was rubbed forcibly backward and forward; with -these, rude as they were, very good time was preserved with the -vocal performers who sat around them, and by all the natives as -they sat in the inflection of their bodies, or the movements of -their limbs; after the lapse of a little time three individuals -leaped up and danced around for a few minutes, then, at a concerted -signal from the master of the ceremonies, the music ceased, and -they retired to their seats uttering a loud noise, which by patting -the mouth rapidly with the hand, was broken into a succession of -similar sounds, somewhat like the hurried barking of a dog. Several -sets {141} of dancers succeeded, each terminating as the first. -In the intervals of the dances, a warrior would step forward and -strike a flagstaff they had erected with a stick, whip, or other -weapon, and recount his martial deeds. This ceremony is called -_striking the post_, and whatever is then said may be relied upon -as rigid truth, being delivered in the presence of many a jealous -warrior and witness, who could easily detect and would immediately -disgrace the _striker_ for exaggeration or falsehood. This is -called the beggars' dance, during which some presents are always -expected by the performers, as tobacco, whiskey, or trinkets. -But on this occasion, as none of those articles were immediately -offered, the amusement was not, at first, distinguished by much -activity. The master of the ceremonies continually called aloud -to them to exert themselves; but still they were somewhat dull -and backward. Ietan now stepped forward and lashed a post with -his whip, declaring that he would thus punish those who did not -dance; this threat from one whom they had vested with authority -for this occasion had a manifest effect upon his auditors, who -were presently highly wrought up by the sight of two or three -little mounds of tobacco twist which were now laid before them, and -appeared to infuse new life. - -After lashing the post and making his threat, Ietan went on to -narrate his martial exploits. He had stolen horses seven or eight -times from the Konzas; he had first struck the bodies of three of -that nation slain in battle. He had stolen horses from the Ietan -nation, and had struck one of their dead. He had stolen horses -from the Pawnees, and struck the body of one Pawnee Loup. He had -stolen horses several times from the Omawhaws, and once from the -Puncas. He had struck the bodies of two Sioux. On a war party, in -company with the Pawnees, he had attacked the Spaniards and -penetrated into one of their camps; the Spaniards, {142} excepting -a man and boy, fled; himself being at a distance before his party, -he was shot at and missed by the man, whom he immediately shot -down and struck. "This, my father," said he, "is the only martial -act of my life that I am ashamed of."[178] After several rounds of -dancing, and of striking at the post by the warriors, Mi-a-ke-ta, -or the Little Soldier, a war-worn veteran, took his turn to strike -the post. He leaped actively about, and strained his voice to its -utmost pitch whilst he portrayed some of the scenes of blood in -which he had acted. He had struck dead bodies of individuals of -all the red nations around, Osages, Konzas, Pawnee Loups, Pawnee -Republicans, Grand Pawnees, Puncas, Omawhaws, and Sioux, Padoucas, -La Plais or Bald Heads, Ietans, Sauks, Foxes, and Ioways;[179] he -had struck eight of one nation, seven of another, &c. He was -proceeding with his account when Ietan ran up to him, put his hand -upon his mouth, and respectfully led him to his seat. This act was -no trifling compliment paid to the well-known brave. It indicated -that he had still so many glorious acts to speak of, that he would -occupy so much time as to prevent others from speaking, and put to -shame the other warriors by the contrast of his actions with -theirs. - -Their physical action in dancing is principally confined to -leaping a small distance from the ground with both feet, the body -being slightly inclined, and upon alighting, an additional slight -but sudden inclination of the body is made, so as to appear like -a succession of jerks; or the feet are raised alternately, the -motions of the body being the same. Such are the movements, in -which the whole party correspond; but in the figures, as they are -termed in our assembly rooms, each individual performs a separate -part, and each part is a significant pantomimic narrative. In all -their variety of action they are careful to observe the musical -cadences. In this dance Ietan represented one who was in the act -of stealing {143} horses. He carried a whip in his hand, as did -a considerable number of the Indians, and around his neck were -thrown several leathern thongs, for bridles and halters, the ends -of which trailed upon the ground behind him; after many preparatory -manoeuvres, he stooped down, and with his knife represented the act -of cutting the _hopples_ of horses; he then rode his tomahawk, as -children ride their broomsticks, making such use of his whip as -to indicate the necessity of rapid movement lest his foes should -overtake him. Wa-sa-ba-jing-ga, or Little Black Bear, after a -variety of gestures, threw several arrows in succession over his -head, thereby indicating his familiarity with the flight of such -missiles; he at the same time covered his eyes with his hand to -indicate that he was blind to danger. Others represented their -manoeuvres in battle, seeking their enemy, discharging at him their -guns or arrows, &c. &c. Most of the dancers were the principal -warriors of the nation, men who had not condescended to amuse -themselves or others in this manner for years before; but they -now appeared in honour of the occasion, and to conciliate in the -best manner the good will of the representative of the government -of the Big-knives.[180] Amongst these veteran warriors Ietan, or -Sha-mon-e-kus-se, Ha-she-a, the broken arm, commonly called Cut -Nose, and Wa-sa-ba-jing-ga, or Little Black Bear, three youthful -leaders, in particular attracted our attention. In consequence -of having been appointed soldiers on this occasion, to preserve -order, they were painted entirely black. The countenance of the -former indicated much wit, and had in its expression something -of the character of that of Voltaire; he frequently excited the -mirth of those about him by his remarks and gestures. Ha-she-a, -called Cut Nose, in consequence of having lost the tip of his nose -in a quarrel[181] with Ietan, wore a handsome robe of white wolf -skin, with an appendage behind him, called a _crow_. This singular -decoration is a large cushion, made of the skin of a crow, {144} -stuffed with any light material, and variously ornamented; it has -two decorated sticks projecting from it upward, and a pendant -one beneath; this apparatus is secured upon the buttocks by a -girdle passing round the body. The other actors in the scene were -decorated with paints of several colours fantastically disposed -upon their persons. Several were painted with white clay, which -had the appearance of being grooved in many places. This grooved -appearance is given by drawing the finger nails over the part so -as to remove the pigment from thence in parallel lines. These -lines are either rectilinear, undulated, or zigzag; sometimes -passing over the forehead transversely or vertically; sometimes in -the same directions, or obliquely over the whole visage, or upon -the breast, arms, &c. Many were painted with red clay, in which -the same lines appeared. A number of them had the representation -of a black hand with outspread fingers, on different parts of the -body, strongly contrasting with the principal colour with which the -body was overspread; the hand was depicted in different positions -upon the face, breast, and back. The face of others was coloured, -one half black, and one half white, or red and white, &c.; many -coloured their hair with red clay; but the eye-lids and base of -the ears were generally tinged with vermilion. At the conclusion -of the ceremony, whiskey, which they always expect on similar -occasions, was produced, and a small portion was given to each. The -principal chiefs of the different nations, who had remained passive -spectators of the scene, now directed their people to return to -their camp. The word of the chiefs was obeyed, excepting by a few -of the Ioways, who appeared to be determined to keep their places -notwithstanding the reiterated command of the chiefs. Ietan now -sprang towards them, with an expression of much ferocity in his -countenance, and it is probable a tragic scene would have been -displayed had not the chiefs {145} requested him to use gentle -means, and thus he succeeded, after which the chiefs withdrew. - -October 4th. At ten o'clock, the hour appointed for the council, -the Indians, headed by their chiefs, arrived; and after shaking us -all by the hand took their seats. There were about one hundred -Otoes, seventy Missouries, and fifty or sixty Ioways. They -arranged themselves, agreeably to their tribes, on puncheon -benches, which had been prepared for them, and which described a -semicircle, on the chord of which sat the whites, with Major -O'Fallon and his interpreters in the centre. Sentinels walked to -and fro behind the benches; and a handsome standard waved before -the assembly. The council was opened by a few rounds from the -howitzers. A profound silence reigned for a few minutes, when -Major O'Fallon arose, and in a very animated and energetic manner -addressed his Indian auditors. Suitable replies were given by -Shonga-tonga, the Crenier, and others, with all the extravagant -gesticulation which is one of the prominent features of Indian -oratory. - - [Illustration: Oto Council] - -At the termination of the council, presents were made of blankets, -kettles, strouding, tobacco, guns, powder, and ball, &c. The Big -Horse and the Crenier only were acknowledged as chiefs, and to the -latter, who did not possess a large medal, one was given in -exchange for a smaller one which he possessed. No chief was -acknowledged amongst the Missouries, as it is the wish of Major -O'Fallon to extinguish as much as possible national prejudices -between these two nations or tribes. - -Cut Nose now presented to the agent his crow and bison robe -ornamented with hieroglyphicks. The Little Black Bear presented -his robe of white wolf and bison skin, and a pair of handsome -leggings. The Black Bird presented a robe and the serrated -instrument of music before mentioned, observing, significantly, -that the latter was then the only weapon {146} he possessed with -which he could defend his father. - -October 5th. Last evening Loutre, an old Missouri Indian died; he -had spoken in the council a few hours before, and remarked then -that he had not long to live. He was buried without ceremony near -the trading house. - -October 9th. Messengers who had been sent yesterday for the -Pawnees returned, having met with them on the Elk Horn creek, -twenty-five miles distant, on their way hither.[182] They arrived -about noon, seventy in number, consisting of individuals of each -of the three tribes, called Grand Pawnees, Pawnee Republicans, and -Pawnee Loups, or Pawnemahas, and halted at some distance from our -camp. As we approached them we observed the majority of them -standing in a forest of young willow trees, holding their mules by -the bridles, and looking dubiously around. The chief of the -principal band, Long Hair, was haranguing them in a loud voice, -"Take off your saddles; why do you stand peeping and trembling in -the bushes? you ought to have trembled when the whites were seen -near the Konza village, &c." We saluted the principal men in the -usual manner of shaking by the hand, though not with much -cordiality. Major O'Fallon then said, "Pawnees, encamp here and -smoke your pipes in security; you have conducted yourselves badly, -but the whites will not harm the red-skins when they have them -thus in their power; we fight in the plains, and scorn to injure -men seated peaceably by their fires. Think well of what you will -have to say to me in council to-morrow." These assurances appeared -to annul their present apprehensions, and they proceeded to -encamp. - -Three boats came from Camp Missouri to take on board a quantity -of provisions which are stored here for the troops; we exchanged -salutes with them. The noise of the artillery excited the -apprehensions of the {147} Indians; who, being sensible of having -grossly offended the whites, now anticipated some exemplary -punishment, and were not at ease until reassured of their safety, -and the cause of the firing of such great guns so near them was -explained. - -In the evening, accompanied by several gentlemen of the party, we -visited the camp of the Pawnees, whom we found sitting round their -fires, smoking their pipes in silence. Some were employed in making -bows, having found plenty of hickory, and hop horn beam wood here, -which are not to be procured in the vicinity of their villages. -Their mules were tied to trees, feeding on the bark of the cotton -wood. The three tribes were seated around different fires. We sat -down in the group of Grand Pawnees, and smoked with their chief -Tar-ra-re-ca-wa-o, or Long Hair. This [is] an hereditary chief, -of a lofty and rather haughty mien; his mouth is, perhaps through -habit, drawn down a little at the corners. He has the appearance -and character of an intrepid man, although not distinguished as -a warrior, having, during his life, killed but a single man, -who was a Spaniard. He is, however, artful and politic, and has -performed some laudable actions. The following anecdote may serve -in part to illustrate the more amiable traits of his character. -Dorion, a Mestizo,[183] on a trading expedition, had accumulated a -considerable quantity of peltry, at the Pawnee republican village, -when it was situated on the Republican fork of the Konza river. -As he had no horses to transport his merchandize, he requested the -chief of that village to assist him in conveying it to the Grand -Pawnees on the Platte, as he intended to descend that river to -trade with the Otoes, on his way to St. Louis; the chief directly -ordered horses to be brought, the furs were packed upon them, and -they departed on the journey; but owing to some alleged misconduct -on the part of Dorion, the chief, when half way, ordered the goods -to be taken from the horses, and to be left on the plain. {148} -He then, with his followers, returned to his village. The trader, -after bewailing his unfortunate condition, at length resolved to -go to the Grand Pawnee village and solicit the aid of Long Hair. -Having arrived at the residence of the chief, he related to him in -what manner he had been used by the Republican chief, and concluded -by requesting assistance to bring in his goods. Long Hair, without -reply, ascended to the top of his lodge and called out to his -people to bring him one hundred horses. Taking the best of these, -and a sufficient number of attendants, he accompanied Dorion, and -assisted him to transport all his peltries, and did not cease with -his good offices, until he had aided him in building a skin canoe, -and had packed all the merchandize aboard, although previously -told by Dorion that he had nothing to reward him with, having, as -he said, traded every thing away, though at the same moment he had -a number of Indian goods concealed in his packs of buffalo robes. -After all was completed, "Now," said the chief, "Dorion, I know -that you are a bad man; I have no doubt but you have a quantity of -such goods as we want, concealed in those packs, and could reward -me if you were liberal enough; but I ask nothing: you have a forked -tongue. You have abused me to the whites, by calling me a rascal, -saying I robbed the traders, &c.; but go, I will not harm you; tell -the red head (Governor Clarke) that I am a rascal, robber, &c., I -am content."[184] - -At another fire, surrounded by his particular band, sat the Knife -Chief, La-che-le-cha-ru, principal chief of the Pawneemahas. He is -a large portly man, with a very prepossessing countenance; the -hair on the sides of his head is gray; he has a deep scar on the -right side, from a wound which was inflicted by a female prisoner, -of the Padouca nation, whom he had adopted and taken into his -family. This squaw, becoming infuriated at the prospect of the -state of slavery to which she supposed herself now reduced, {149} -stabbed her child to the heart, mortally wounded the brother of -this chief, and, before she could be despatched, had inflicted -this wound, through which the bowels protruded. The individuals of -this band live in great harmony amongst themselves, owing probably -to their having but two chiefs, who are unrivalled. The second -chief is a Mestizo. Against this band we have no accusation; they -have always demeaned themselves well towards the American whites. - -In a third group were collected the representatives of the Pawnee -Republicans; this nation or clan stands accused of whipping, -robbing, and otherwise abusing a white American and his son, whom -they found trapping beaver on the Arkansa river, this season; of -killing two American citizens, two years since, who were also -trapping beaver on the same river; and of robbing our party of -sundry articles and horses, near the Konza village, whilst under -the protection of the flag of our country, of the nature of which -they had been instructed, and perfectly well understood. These -outrages, and many others, they had committed on lands, to which -they do not pretend to have any claim, situated far from their own -territories, and in the immediate vicinity of nations with whom -they then were, and still are, at war.[185] - -On the following day the Pawnees were summoned to council, and in -a short time they appeared marching leisurely in a narrow pathway, -in _Indian file_, led by the grand chief; near this pathway the -musical band was stationed, and when Long Hair arrived opposite, -they struck up, suddenly and loudly, a martial air. We wished to -observe the effect which instruments, that he had never seen or -heard before, would produce on this distinguished man, and -therefore {150} eyed him closely, and were not disappointed to -observe that he did not deign to look upon them, or to manifest, -by any motion whatever, that he was sensible of their presence. -The Indians arranged themselves on the benches prepared for them, -and the cessation of the music was succeeded by stillness, which -was suddenly interrupted by loud explosions from our howitzers, -that startled many of us, but did not appear to attract the notice -of the Pawnees. - -Major O'Fallon rose and addressed them in a very austere tone and -manner; stating the offences they had committed against the white -people, and admonishing them to a reformation in their conduct, -and to restore the articles they had stolen from us; this was -chiefly directed against the Pawnee Republicans; the Loups were -applauded for their uniformly good deportment. - - [Illustration: Pawnee Council] - -The council terminated after much of the property taken from us -near the Konza village was restored, and a promise given that the -offenders should be punished by whipping.[186] - -The leisure we enjoyed after our arrival at Engineer Cantonment, -afforded the opportunity of making numerous excursions to collect -animals, and to explore the neighbouring country. We give here -some account of two species of sorex, taken near our cabins.[187] - - -Early in October the cabins for winter-quarters were completed. -Having made arrangements for the subsistence of the party, and -being about to return to Washington, Major Long issued orders to -the officers and gentlemen of the expedition, for their government -during his absence. The following extract will show to what -objects they were instructed to direct their attention. - - "Mr. Say will have every facility afforded him that circumstances - will admit to examine the country, {151} visit the neighbouring - Indians, procure animals, &c. for the attainment of which - he will call on Lt. Graham, who is authorized to make any - expenditures in behalf of the expedition that may be deemed - reasonable and necessary, and afford any aid in his power, - consistent with the performance of other duties. Mr. Seymour or - Mr. Peale will accompany him, whenever their services are deemed - requisite. - - "Major O'Fallon has given permission to Mr. Dougherty to aid the - gentlemen of the party, in acquiring information concerning - the Indians, &c.; this gentleman will, therefore, be consulted - in relation to visits, and all kinds of intercourse with the - Indians, that may be necessary in the prosecution of the duties - of the expedition. - - "In regard to these duties, the gentlemen of the expedition will - consult my orders of March last. The documents transmitted from - the Philosophical Society of Philadelphia, by the Secretary of - War; and the instructions of Mr. Jefferson to Capt. Lewis, to - be found in vol. 1st of Lewis and Clarke's expedition,[188] and - regulate their observations and inquiries accordingly. - - "Lt. Graham will embrace every opportunity for celestial and - barometric observations, and calculate the latitude, longitude, - magnetic dip and variation, with the utmost attainable - precision; also the heights of the neighbouring hills, and - the adjacent high table lands. He will also continue the - meteorologic observations as usual, noticing the changes of - weather, and all celestial and atmospheric phenomena. To aid - him in these duties, he will call on Lieut. Swift, or any other - gentleman of the expedition, who may not be particularly engaged - at the time in other important duties. - - "It is believed, that the field for observation and inquiry is - here so extensive, that all the gentlemen of the expedition - will find ample range for the exercise of their talents in - their respective pursuits; and it is {152} hoped, that through - their unremitted exertions and perseverance, a rich harvest of - useful intelligence will be acquired." - -On the 11th of October, Major Long and Mr. Jessup took leave of -their friends at Engineer Cantonment, and accompanied by several -other persons, began to descend the Missouri in a canoe, on their -way towards Washington and Philadelphia. - - -FOOTNOTES: - - [174] The camp was in the southeast corner of Washington - County, Nebraska. Boyer River rises in Sac County, Iowa, flows - southwest through Crawford and Harrison counties, and debouches - in Pottawatomie County, nearly opposite the boundary between - Washington and Douglas counties, Nebraska.--ED. - - - [175] Height of the bluff, ascertained by Lieutenant Graham. - - Trigonometrically, 271 feet. - Barometrically, 277 feet. --JAMES. - - - [176] We add some notices of a few of the most - important. - - 1. _Terebratula._--A specimen considerably resembling the T. - _subundata_ of Sowerby, in the undulated line of the edges of - the valves; but it is a much more depressed shell, and of a - much less rounded form. - - In the young state, the undulation of the edge is not very - distinct; but this character increases with age, so that in - the young state, it appears like a totally different species - from the adult. - - 2. In the same rock are very numerous arquated spines, like - ribs of fish, some of them 1-1/2 inches long. - - 3. A fragment of a terebratula or productus, imbedded, with - very long spines, which may possibly be the same with the - above. - - 4. A specimen, being a mass of comminuted fragments of shells, - amongst which are only recognizable a few segments of the - column of the encrinus, and minute turretted univalves of five - whirls, which resemble turritella, and are about one-twentieth - of an inch long. - - 5. _Millepora cylindrica_, SAY.--Branched, cylindric; _pores_ - very regular, alternate, oval, placed nearer to each other - than the length of their own transverse diameters, and - resembling those of an _alveolite_. - - Diameter, about one-tenth of an inch. - - 6. Segments of the column of encrinus of authors, of a - pentangular form. - - 7. Ossiculae of the body of a crinoid animal of the analogous - species to No. 21. - - 8. Fragment of Perna? - - 9. A mass of argillaceous sandstone, containing spines of a - Linnaean echinus, belonging probably to the genus cidarites - of Lamarck. Of these spines some are elongate-conic, others - slightly fusiform, obtuse and slightly dilated near the - tip, both are armed with short asperities throughout their - length. They resemble in some degree those of the _cidarites - pistillaris_ of Lamarck, but they are smaller, less fusiform, - and the asperities are not prominent. - - In the same mass are segments of encrinus, and fragments of the - retepore. - - 10. Retepore, much resembling the _milleporites flustriformis_ - of Martin, Petrif. Derbi. pl. 43. fig. 1 and 2., but the - alveoles in our specimens are rather smaller. - - 11. _Millepora cylindrica_, SAY.--Of the diameter of half an - inch. - - 12. _Productus subserratus_, SAY.--Shell transverse, convex - valve semicircular, destitute of asperities or striae, - longitudinally indented in the middle; line of the hinge - rectilinear, half as long again as the length of the shell, with - three or four spines or serratures on each side towards the - angle; _umbo_ not prominent; the beak hardly prominent beyond - the line of the hinge. Length, more than three-tenths; breadth, - more than half an inch. A large specimen was four-fifths of an - inch wide. - - If we except the beak, the outline of this shell, as respects - the hinge margin and the sides, considerably resembles that of - P. _spinulosus_ of Sowerby, but the base is far more obtusely - rounded, and it is a shorter shell comparatively with its - width. The serratures are very often broken off. The curvature - of the sides does not in the slightest degree project beyond - the angles of the hinge line. - - 13. An imperfect cast, very like the _terebratula subundata_ - of Sowerby, and of equal magnitude. - - 14. Pentagonal ossiculae of the trunk of encrinus of authors, - which in outline may be compared to figs. 61 and 62, of plate - 13. vol. 2. of Parkinson's Organic Remains, but their surfaces - do not now exhibit any sculpture. - - 15. Many of these shells exhibit the most unequivocal - evidences of having been in a plastic state, at some period or - other, since their deposition in their present situations. The - fine striae of a _productus lineolatus_, are so interlaced on - the middle of a valve of one of our specimens, as at once to - convince every observer of the shell having been thus - partially dissolved, and when in this state to have been - gently rubbed by some other body, in two directions proceeding - obliquely to the same point, so as to throw the striae in that - part entirely out of their proper longitudinal direction. It - is very common to find shells unnaturally flattened, or - compressed in various ways and degrees, often without any - fracture in the shell or cast; a circumstance which certainly - could never happen to the shell, unless it was in a plastic - state, or in a state of partial solution. - - 16. A specimen of carbonate of lime, on its surface a mass of - sub-parallel tubes, connected by short lateral processes. The - whole much resembles, and is probably congeneric with the - erismatholithus tubiporites (_catenatus_) of Martin's Petrif. - Derbi. t. 42. fig. 2., but the connecting processes of the - tubes are much shorter than they are represented in that - figure; but it corresponds much more exactly with the - tubiporite, figured by Parkinson in his Organic Remains, vol. - 2. pl. 1. f. 1., and may with great propriety form a new - genus, the type of which will be the tubipora strues of Lin. - - The genus is probably allied to favosites and tubipora. - - 17. _Trilobus._--The abdomen of a species of this singular - genus frequently occurs in the sandstone of the Missouri; near - Engineer Cantonment they were very common. The largest was - rather more than one inch long, by about one and three-tenths - inches in breadth at base; but the more general length is - about three-fourths of an inch. The tergum or intermediate - lobe is narrow, being not more than two-thirds of the width of - the flanks, and much more convex than those parts. - - But a single specimen occurred, which we can, without any - doubt, consider as the thorax of a trilobus; but whether or - not it appertains to the same species with the above, or to - some other of which we have no other fragment, we are at a - loss to determine. Like the above-mentioned abdomen, it is - distinct from any that we have seen figures of. It is of a - narrow lunate form, highly convex, the disk destitute of - sculpture, and the eyes prominent. - - 18. Many imperfect casts of two different kinds of bivalve - shells occur near Engineer Cantonment, of which one may - possibly have been a _cardita_. - - 19. Tooth of a squalus, which seems to approach nearest to - those of _Sq. maximus_, by its compressed conic form. - - Greatest length 2-1/10 inches. - - Thickness more than 2/5 of an inch. - - The sides are rounded, without any appearance of serratures; - thickened near the tip, and more compressed near the base. - - 20. Tooth of a squalus, something like that of _S. galeus_, - but less of a triangular form, and the lateral processes are - more distinct, and also less triangular than in that species. - - 21. An imperfect body of a crinoid animal, _encrinite_ of - authors; the fragment is about one-half of the inferior - portion of the body, from which the following description is - made out, taking into view the whole circumference. The plates - composing the _first costal_ series (Miller), five in number, - are longitudinally pentangular, much curved inwards towards - the base, to join the _first columnar joint_, or perhaps the - _pelvis_; at which part the plate is narrow, being about - one-ninth of an inch, whilst the other sides are nearly - three-tenths of an inch each, the superior ones being somewhat - longer than the others; the _second costal plates_, (Miller,) - five in number, are transversely pentangular, the superior - joint being long, the lateral ones shortest, the former being - one-half an inch in length, the latter 3/20, and the inferior - sides which articulate to the segments of the pelvis, somewhat - less than 3/10 of an inch; the margins of the first costal - joints, as well as the superior margins of the segments of the - pelvis, are armed with a few tubercles, some of which seem to - have been perforated; all the superior pieces are wanting in - our specimen, but the truncated surface, on which the - _scapulars_ (Miller) rested, is of a pentagonal outline, and - composed of a series of horizontal equilateral triangles, two - to each side, which are separated on each side from the - adjacent pairs by a deep groove, which corresponds, and is - nearly at right angles with the exterior sutures, which join - the first costal joints to each other; these triangular - surfaces are also separated from the exterior edge by two - grooves, which are crenated, and enclose an oblong foramina - between them; a single _intercostal plate_ occurs, interposed - between two of the _second costals_; it is of an oblong - hexagonal form, its base resting upon the extremity of a - segment of the _first costals_, which is truncated to receive - it; the superior portion of this plate is much bent inward - towards the abdominal cavity; its tip is quadrate and concave. - - The whole exterior surface of this reliquium, with the - exception of the tubercles, and sutural impressed lines, is - plain and equable. - - If we have not mistaken the pieces of this imperfect specimen, - the pelvis is wanting, but the cavity in which it existed must - have been about 3/20 of an inch in diameter. - - The plate-like form of the ossiculae, and their mode of - articulation with each other, by an extension horizontally - inwards, as we have described above, in the case of those - plates which we have considered as the _second costals_, seem - to indicate, that this species ought to be referred to the - second division of the crinoidea, or _semiarticulata_ of - Miller. It certainly, however, cannot be at all referred to - poteriocrinites, the only genus which that author has framed - in this division of the family. We refrain from distinguishing - it by a name either generic or specific, until other specimens - can be obtained, in which the characters are less equivocal. - - We have two _second costal plates_, which made part of - distinct individuals, larger than the above described one. Of - these the surface of one is perfectly glabrous, whilst that of - the other has light orbicular indentations instead of - tubercles; a third very small one is perfectly smooth like the - first, and doubtless formed part of the body of a young - individual. - - Another plate found near the same spot with the above, is of a - somewhat triangular form exteriorly, or rather like the face - of a truncated pyramid, of which the middle of the summit is a - little produced in the form of a right angle, thus offering a - scollop on each side of the apex for the adaptation of - superior ossiculae. On divesting it carefully of its extraneous - matrix, we discovered that it was readily adjusted by its base - to the summit of those segments of the fragment above - described, which we have supposed to be _second costals_, a - prominent line on its base corresponding with the inner one of - those grooves which we have described, to characterize the - superior face of those plates. This plate, then, agreeably to - the relations in which we have viewed the preceding pieces, - must be a _scapula_; it is susceptible of considerable - hinge-like motion, and appears to have been much less firmly - attached to the costals than the latter are to each other. - - A segment of a crinoid animal, which seemed to have been a - _first costal joint_ of a _pentacrinus_ of Parkinson, occurred - near the same place. - - 22. _Productus pectinoides_, SAY.--Convex valve, with a - central longitudinal indentation; the whole surface is - longitudinally ribbed, each rib being marked by two striae, in - addition to the central carina. - - The shell is not of frequent occurrence, and a perfect - specimen has not yet been obtained, but the portions we have - examined, are sufficient to show that it is perfectly distinct - from either of the species we have mentioned. We do not find - any species figured or described by authors like it. - - 23. _Productus compressus_, SAY.--Shell much compressed, with - numerous acute striae, upwards of fifty in number on each - valve, the alternate ones rather smaller; a very slight - central longitudinal indentation on the convex valve; outline - suborbicular; hinge edge rectilinear, shorter than the - greatest breadth of the shell. - - Greatest breadth from 3/5 to 1 inch. In its proportions it - resembles the truncated portion of the productus of Martin, as - represented on his plate 22. fig. 3. It is very common. - - 24. A shell of the length and breadth of three inches - sometimes occurs, the convex valve of which is transversely - undulated, its umbo prominent, and curved like that of a - gryphaea, its tip resting on the base of the opposite valve - which is concave, with a transverse linear base; its muscular - impressions seem to have been lateral. - - 25. A single specimen was found of a valve of a shell, in some - degree resembling a pecten, but without the auricles. Length - more than 2-3/10 inches. - - 26. _Productus lineolatus_, SAY.--Valves with numerous, fine, - equal, equidistant, longitudinal striae, and a few small - tubercles; convex valve very much elongated, its basal portion - is curved downwards, almost perpendicularly with respect to - the disk near the umbones. - - So singular is the structure of this shell, that the internal - cavity appears to have been perfectly transverse, with respect - to the general length of the shell, and small in comparison - with the length. It strongly resembles the anomites productus - of Martin, as represented on plate 22. fig. 102. of his - Petrif. Derbi., and like that shell it is armed with small - tubercles, though fewer in number, and the striae are much more - numerous and smaller. - - 27. Cast of a turretted univalve, probably a cerithium, of the - length of 2-1/2 inches. - - 28. Cast of the anterior portion of a valve of a shell like an - ostrea, of the breadth of 2-1/2 inches. - - 29. On the Missouri near the Platte, occur masses of rock, - which seem to be almost exclusively composed of a remarkable - petrifaction, belonging to the family of concamerated shells. - This shell is elongated, fusiform, and when broken transversely, - it exhibits the appearance of numerous cells disposed spirally - as in the _nummulite_, but its longitudinal section displays - only deep grooves. The shell was therefore composed of tubes or - syphons, placed parallel to each other, and revolving laterally, - as in the genus _melonis_ of Lamarck, with which its characters - undoubtedly correspond. But as in the transverse fracture, its - spiral system of tubes cannot be traced to the centre in any - of the numerous specimens we have examined, it would seem to - have a solid axis, and consequently belongs to that division of - the genus that Montfort regards as distinct, under the name of - _miliolites_, which seems to be similar to the _fasciolites_ - of Parkinson, and altogether different from the miliolites - of Lamarck. Our specimens are conspicuously striated on the - exterior, which distinction, together with their elongated - fusiform shape, sufficiently distinguish them as a species - from the _sabulosus_ which Montfort describes as the type of - his genus. No aperture is discoverable in this shell, but the - termination of the exterior volution very much resembles an - aperture as long as the shell. - - The length is three-tenths of an inch; and its greatest breadth - one-twelfth. - - We call it _miliolites secalicus_, SAY.--Mr. T. Nuttall - informs me, that he observed it in great quantities high up - the Missouri. - - In the same mass were some segments of the encrinus, and a - terebratula with five or six obtuse longitudinal waves. - - 30. Another petrifaction, abundant in some fragments of compact - carbonate of lime, also found on the shores of the Missouri, - possesses all the generic characters which we have attributed - to the preceding species, excepting that in the transverse - fracture the cells distinctly revolve from the centre itself, - and of course the shell was destitute of the solid nucleus as in - melonis, _Lamarck_. It has about four volutions. We have named - this species, which is, notwithstanding the difference of the - central portion of the same genus with the preceding _miliolites - centralis, Say_. As in the preceding, it is entirely filled - solidly with carbonate of lime, and this substance being of a - greater purity in the filled-up cavities of the fossil than in - the mass, its interior divisions are very obvious. - - The latter species we observed about one hundred miles up the - Konzas river, where it forms the chief body of the rocks in - extensive ranges. It seems to be a carbonate of lime containing - iron.--JAMES. - - - [177] John Gale, of New Hampshire, was surgeon in the rifles. - He entered the army in 1812, as surgeon's mate in the 23d - Infantry. After an honorable discharge in 1815, he was the same - year reinstated as surgeon's mate in the 3d Infantry, and in - 1818 made surgeon in the rifles. Three years later he became - major-surgeon. He died in 1830. - - Matthew J. Magee was captain of a Pennsylvania company of - volunteers during the first two years of the War of 1812-15. - In 1814 he was made captain in the 4th Rifles. After being - discharged at the close of the war, he was reinstated (1816) - as first lieutenant of ordnance with brevet rank as captain. A - little later he was made captain, and in 1818 was transferred - to the rifles. In 1821 he was transferred to the infantry. His - death occurred in 1824.--ED. - - - [178] Ietan, as he was called by the whites, is said to have - been the son of Big Horse (Shonga-tonga). The name may have been - given him for some exploit against the Ietan (Comanche) tribe. - His Indian name (Shamonekusse, Shongmunecuthe) means Prairie - Wolf. In 1821-22 Ietan accompanied a deputation of chiefs to the - East; the Indians made careful observations of what they saw, - after their own fashion, and, it is said, attempted to count the - people of New York by means of notched sticks. Among his fellows - Ietan was noted for his wit and sagacity, as well as for warlike - prowess. His death resulted (April, 1837) from a wound received - while pursuing some young braves who had seduced two of his - wives.--ED. - - - [179] The Ietan Indians, more commonly known as Comanche, were - a branch of the Shoshoni family. Their range was the upper - Arkansas, Canadian, and Red rivers. - - On the Pawnee and Pawnee Loups, see respectively Brackenridge's - _Journal_, in our volume vi, note 17, and Bradbury's _Travels_, - in our volume v, note 44. The Pawnee nation consisted of four - principal tribes: 1. Pawnee proper (Grand Pawnee); 2. Pawnee - Republican, who dwelt on the Republican fork of Kansas River; 3. - Tapage, on the Platte; 4. Pawnee Loups (Skidi; Pani-mahas). - - The Omaha and Ponca were closely related tribes of Siouan stock. - For their early history and present condition, see our volume v, - notes 49, 63. - - The Sioux (Dakota) were the chief branch of the great family - to which they have given their name. The branch was divided - into a number of tribes, including the Yankton and Teton, - mentioned below in the text. - - Sketches of the Osage, Sauk and Foxes, and Iowa will be found - in our volume v, notes 21, 22. - - The Padouca were a powerful tribe when visited by Bourgmont in - 1724 (see succeeding volume, note 29), but the nation - disintegrated and lost its identity before the close of the - eighteenth century, if, indeed, the name was not from the - beginning applied collectively to several kindred tribes of - the plains. Their habitat was the banks of the upper Kansas - River; later they removed to the Platte, the North Fork of - which is sometimes designated by their name. - - The Indians here called La Plais (La Playes) were reported by - Lewis and Clark (_Statistical View_) to be a numerous tribe of - Shoshoni stock, inhabiting the plains at the heads of the - Arkansas and Red rivers. Later authorities seem not to have - distinguished them from the kindred Comanche.--ED. - - - [180] The Indian name for Americans. On the origin of - the term, see Thwaites, _Daniel Boone_ (New York, 1902), p. - 111, note.--ED. - - - [181] This quarrel, and the resulting loss of part of - the nose of one of the contestants, has given rise to a number - of fables. In one of them Ietan and his brother are the - combatants, and it is Ietan who loses the tip of his nose. In - his thirst for revenge he pursues his brother across the - plains and through the forest, both in friendly and hostile - villages, only to fall a prey to bitter remorse when, after - many months, he overtakes the fugitive and slays him.--ED. - - - [182] Elkhorn River (Corne de Cerf, of the French explorers) is - a considerable northern tributary of the Platte, into which it - falls on the western line of Sarpy County. The head waters are - only a few miles from the Niobrara River, in Rock County.--ED. - - - [183] One of the half-breed sons of Pierre Dorion (Durion), - who accompanied Lewis and Clark as interpreter. See Bradbury's - _Travels_, in our volume v, note 7.--ED. - - - [184] Red-head was the customary Indian name for Governor - William Clark, and St. Louis was "Red-head's Town." For sketch - of Clark, see Nuttall's _Journal_, in our volume xiii, note - 105.--ED. - - - [185] It was a party of the Grand Pawnees that robbed and - ill-treated Lieutenant Pike and his party, when traversing the - country within their range.--JAMES. - - - [186] See Appendix C at the end of volume xvii.--ED. - - - [187] 1. _Sorex parvus_, SAY.--Brownish cinereous above; beneath - cinereous; teeth blackish; tail short, of moderate thickness. - - _Body_ above brownish cinereous, beneath cinereous; _head_ - elongated; _eyes_ and _ears_ concealed; _whiskers_ long, the - longest nearly attaining the back of the head; _nose_ naked - emarginate; _front teeth_ black, lateral ones piceous; _feet_ - whitish, five-toed; _nails_ prominent, acute, white; _tail_ - short, subcylindric, of moderate thickness, slightly thicker in - the middle, whitish beneath. - - Length from tip of nose to root of tail, 2 3/8 inches. - Length of tail, 0 3/4 inches. - Length from the upper teeth to tip of nose, 0 3/20 inches. - - Mr. Peale caught this animal in a pitfall, which he had dug - for the purpose of catching a wolf. It is a female. - - Barton, in his Medical and Physical Journal for 1806, p. 67, - says, that, "Sorex minutissimus of Zimmerman, has been - discovered in the trans-Mississippi part of the United States, - in the country that is watered by the Missouri;"--had he - reference to this species? - - This _sorex minutissimus_, is probably synonymous with S. - _exilis_, to which our specimens cannot be referred, whilst - the character attributed to that species, of "tail very thick - in the middle," is considered essential. - - 2. _Sorex brevicaudus_, SAY.--Blackish-plumbeous above, - beneath rather lighter; teeth, blackish; tail, short, robust. - - Total length from nose to tip of tail, 4-5/8 inch. - Total length of the tail, 1 inch. - Total length from the upper teeth to the tip of nose, 0-1/8 inch. - - _Above_ blackish plumbeous, when viewed from before; silvery - plumbeous when viewed from behind; _fur_ dense, rather long; - _beneath_ rather paler; _head_ large; _eyes_ very minute; - _ears_ white, entirely concealed beneath the fur, aperture very - large, with two distinct semisepta, (tragus and antitragus?) - which are sparsely hairy at tip; _rostrum_ short, with a - slightly impressed, abbreviated line above; _nose_ livid brown, - emarginate; _mouth_ margined with whitish and with sparse short - hairs; _teeth_ piceous-black at tip; _feet_, white, the second, - third, and fourth toes subequal, the first and fifth shorter, - the former rather shortest, anterior with but very few hairs, - nearly naked; _nails_ nearly as long as the toes; _tail_ with - rather sparse hairs, nearly of equal diameter, but slightly - thickest in the middle, depressed, and nearly as long as the - posterior feet. - - This specimen, which is a male, closely resembles _S. - parvus_, but it is much larger; the head is proportionably - much larger and more elongated; the tail more robust, and the - inferior anterior pair of incisores are similar to those of - S. _constrictus_, fig. 7. pl. 15. of the Mem. du Mus. by Mr. - Geoffroy St. Hilaire. The incisors of the superior jaw are - twelve in number, in a cranium belonging to this species, five - on each side in addition the two larger anterior ones; the - posterior tooth of the lateral ones is smallest. - - May not this be the animal mentioned by the late professor - Barton in his Medical and Physical Journal, for March, 1816, - which, he says, "may be called the black shrew?" I do not know - that the black shrew has ever received any further notice, - unless it is the same species to which Mr. Ord has applied the - name of _Sorex niger_.--JAMES. - - - [188] See Thwaites, _Original Journals of the Lewis and Clark - Expedition_, Appendix, vol. vii, doc. xviii.--ED. - - - - -{153} CHAPTER IX - - Animals--Sioux and Omawhaw Indians--Winter Residence at - Engineer Cantonment - - -The subsequent account of the transactions at and near Council -Bluff, and of the observations made there, we copy from the -journal of Mr. Say. - -Descriptions of some of the animals which occurred, are given in -the notes below.[189] - -The prairie wolves[190] roam over the plains in considerable -numbers, and during the night, the principal season of their -hunts, they venture very near to the encampment of the traveller. -They are by far the most numerous of our wolves, and often -unite in packs for the purpose of chasing deer, which they very -frequently succeed in running down, and killing. This, however, is -an achievement attended with much difficulty to them, and in which -the exertion of their utmost swiftness and cunning are so often -unavailing, that they are sometimes reduced to the necessity of -eating wild plums, and other fruits, to them almost indigestible, -in order to distend the stomach, and appease, in a degree, the -cravings of hunger. - -Their bark is much more distinctly like that of the domestic dog, -than of any other animal; in fact the first two or three notes -could not be distinguished from the bark of a small terrier, but -these notes are succeeded by a lengthened scream. - -The wonderful intelligence of this animal is well worthy of note, -and a few anecdotes respecting it may not be amiss. Mr. Peale -constructed and tried various kinds of traps to take them, one of -which was of the description called "a live trap," a shallow box -reversed, and supported at one end, by the {154} well known kind -of trap sticks, usually called the "figure four," which elevated -the front of the trap upwards of three feet above its slab -flooring; the trap was about six feet long, and nearly the same in -breadth, and was plentifully baited with offal. Notwithstanding -this arrangement, a wolf actually burrowed under the flooring, and -pulled down the bait through the crevices of the floor; tracks of -different sizes were observed about the trap. This procedure would -seem to be the result of a faculty beyond mere instinct. - -This trap proving useless, another was constructed in a different -part of the country, formed like a large cage, but with a small -entrance on the top, through which the animals might enter, but -not return; this was equally unsuccessful; the wolves attempted in -vain to get at the bait, as they would not enter by the route -prepared for them. - -A large double "steel trap" was next tried; this was profusely -baited, and the whole, with the exception of the bait, was -carefully concealed beneath the fallen leaves. This was also -unsuccessful. Tracks of the anticipated victims were next day -observed to be impressed in numbers on the earth near the spot, -but still the trap, with its seductive charge, remained untouched. -The bait was then removed from the trap, and suspended over it -from the branch of a tree; several pieces of meat were also -suspended in a similar manner, from trees in the vicinity; the -following morning the bait over the trap alone remained. -Supposing that their exquisite sense of smell warned them of the -position of the trap, it was removed, and again covered with -leaves, and the baits being disposed as before, the leaves to a -considerable distance around were burned, and the trap remained -perfectly concealed by ashes; still the bait over the trap was -avoided. Once only this trap was sprung, and had fastened for a -short time upon the foot of a species, which was shot the -following day at no great distance; it proved to be a species -distinct from the {155} prairie wolf, and we have described it -under the name of C. nubilus. - -In no respect disheartened by these futile attempts, many times -repeated, and varied in every obvious manner, another scheme was -executed, which eventuated in complete success. This was the log -trap, in which one log is elevated above another at one end, by -means of an upright stick, which rests upon a rounded horizontal -trigger stick, on the inferior log. - -The latrans does not diffuse the offensive odour, so remarkable in -the two species of jackalls, (C. aureus and C. anthus) though in -many respects it resembles those animals. Like the Mexicanus, the -hair on the vertebral line is elongated; and we should be disposed -to regard it as the same animal, but it differs from the -description of that species, both in colour and physiognomy. The -ears are proportionally longer than those of C. cancrivorus, and, -as well as the tail, shorter than the corresponding parts of C. -mesomelas. - -This animal, which does not seem to be known to naturalists, -unless it should prove to be the Mexicanus, is most probably the -original of the domestic dog, so common in the villages of the -Indians of this region, some of the varieties of which still -retain much of the habit and manners of this species. - -On the 14th of October, four hundred Omawhaw Indians assembled at -Camp Missouri. Major O'Fallon addressed them in an appropriate -speech, stating the reasons for their being called to council; -upon which Ong-pa-ton-ga, the Big Elk,[191] arose, and after -shaking by the hand each of the whites present, placed his robe of -otter skins, and his mockasins under the feet of the agent, whom -he addressed to the following effect, as his language was -interpreted by Mr. Dougherty. - - "He had heard that his father wished to see him, and he had - wished to see and to hear the words of his father, ever since he - learned that he was ascending {156} the river. He was informed - last fall of his being at the river Platte, and as he could not - then go to see him, he had now come to visit him; and here I - am, my father. All these young people you see around here are - yours; although they are poor and trifling, yet they are your - children. I have always loved the whites since I first remember - to have seen them, and this affection increases with my age. All - my nation loves the whites, and always have loved them. Amongst - all the good things of this world I place the whites first. But - it appears that there are many nations that live nearer to you - than I, that do not love you, though you have done more for - them, than you have done for me. When they meet with you, they - flatter you, in order to get presents from you, notwithstanding - which, they would not hesitate to kill some of your people on - their way home. Some of them shake hands with you in a friendly - manner, whilst their hands are yet stained with your blood; - and if you examine your own hands, my father, I think you would - find some of it adhering to them yet. For my part, my father, - I am proud to boast, that my hands are clean. Never has one of - my nation stained his hands with the blood of a white man. I - do not understand, my father, your mode of treating those well - who treat you ill. It is true, I know, that you have more sense - than I have, but I cannot understand it. I have heard that the - Pawnees have been to see you; a nation that has killed, robbed, - and insulted your people. I was also informed that you feasted - them, and at their departure you put weapons in their hands. I - should not be surprised to hear, that those very weapons were - stained with white man's blood before they reached the Pawnee - village. This is what I cannot understand. This circumstance - led me to believe, that if you treated those that have injured - you so well, you surely would treat your poor children the - Omawhaws, who have never done harm to your people, with much - kindness {157} also. But I am afraid the transaction will have a - bad effect on my young men. When they heard of American troops - ascending this river, they feared and respected them. But I am - fearful that this transaction will throw them off their guard, - make them lose their respect for you, and cause them to do - something that they would not otherwise have done, and thus - create trouble and difference between us. You said, my father, - that those troops do not come to harm us. I believe it is - true. I consider them all my brothers and friends. So far from - thinking they come to injure me, I regard them as my shield, to - guard me against bad nations around me. You say, that if ever - there is a difference between us, that it will be our fault; but - I hope not, my father, I cannot think that the Omawhaws will - offer any indignity to your people, now that they have seen all - those troops, when they have not harmed individuals who have - resided years in their village unprotected, although we were - then less enlightened than we now are. Some think, my father, - that you have brought all these warriors here to take our land - from us, but I do not believe it. For although I am but a poor, - simple Indian, yet I know that this land will not suit your - farmers; if I even thought your hearts bad enough to take the - land, I would not fear it, as I know there is not wood enough - on it for the use of whites. You might settle along this river, - where timber is to be found; but we can always get wood enough - in our country to make our little fires. There is one thing I - fear, my father; my nation is coming down here to hunt this - winter, and if you send out your soldiers to hunt also, they - will drive off all the game, and our women and children will - starve. We have heard of the ascent of the troops up this river - ever since last fall, and we have been told by other nations, - that if they chance to meet with any squaws unprotected, they - ravish them. But, my father, we shall soon know if this be true - or not; because, having {158} but little to eat, our squaws - will be obliged to go out into the prairies to dig roots; I - shall trust to you, and not hesitate to let them go." He also - observed, that he could not see the necessity of stationing so - many troops here, as there was no one to oppose; he thought it - desirable that they should go higher up the river, to chastise - those refractory Indians who will not listen to our words. - "There is one thing, my father," he observed, "which I wish you - to inform me of. We have heard of your tying up and whipping - individuals of several nations, as you ascended this river. - What is the offence which will subject us to this punishment? - I wish to know, that I may inform my people, that they may be - on their guard." He then observed that all his children were - poor, and that they had come with the expectation of receiving - something from their father. - -This speech, contrary to the usual mode of Indian orators, was -commenced in a low tone, the voice gradually rising as the speaker -proceeded, until it attained its full intonation. - -Several speakers subsequently went forward and delivered their -sentiments, generally alluding to the circumstance of our treating -those who injure us kindly, and neglecting our friends. - -Ta-sone, the White Cow,[192] spoke with that allusion, and added, -"Look at me, my father, look at my hands; examine me well, I am a -wild man, born in the prairie;" and subsequently, "I told you, my -father, to look at me, that you might see if there is any of the -blood of your people upon me. Some, whose hands have been stained -with blood, endeavour to wash it off, but some of it will still -remain." - -It is proper to mention, as explanatory of some of the allusions -in the above speeches, that the Pawnees, at the conclusion of -their council, had been invited to dine at Camp Missouri, and that -many of their chiefs were there presented with sabres, as I before -stated. It was to this circumstance that the above-mentioned {159} -speakers had reference, as being inexplicable to them; as it -seemed as if we wished to conciliate the good will of those -evil-doers through fear, and yet they could hardly accuse us of -fear, surrounded as we were by so formidable an array of troops. - -It was evident, however, that the speakers had mentally no -reference to Major O'Fallon, as they knew he had not committed or -sanctioned the acts of which they complained in their truly -delicate and peculiar manner. But they looked upon him as -responsible for the actions of his people, knowing him to be the -representative of the government, and that in case of wrong, they -could not obtain redress from any other person. How much soever -Major O'Fallon may have disapproved of the treatment which the -Pawnees had received from the military, he was perfectly conscious -of having conducted himself towards them according to their -deserts, so far as power had been placed in his hands. But being -thus verbally accused, pointedly and repeatedly of injustice, for -acts not his own, he arose and said, "Omawhaws, you say I called -the Pawnees here to feast them and make them presents, after they -had killed and insulted us, but it is not true. I did not smoke -the pipe of peace with them, neither will I, until our differences -are settled. I told the Pawnees that, even if I stood unsupported -before them, I would, nevertheless, either compel them to make -reparation for their offences, or leave my bones amongst them for -my nation to come and bury." - -The Big Elk, and Big Eyes, were the only chiefs acknowledged by -Major O'Fallon, who then made liberal presents to them for their -people. - -Some of these presents were distributed by the Indians after a -peculiar manner, but which I learn is very common amongst the -Indians of this country. A certain portion of them is placed upon -the ground, and whoever can _strike the post_ the most frequently, -{160} gains them. Another portion is then staked for any other -competitors who may choose to advance. A valuable stake was then -offered, and an aged veteran stepped forth, and looking round upon -his nation with a majestic mien, in which there was not a little -expression of triumph, he seemed to challenge the bravest of the -brave to come forward and compete with him for the possession of -it; but agreeably to his expectations no one advanced, and he bore -off the prize by common consent, without going through the ceremony -of _striking_. - -From the 24th of October to the 10th of November, the atmosphere -was generally filled with a dense smoke, like a fog or stratus, -which proceeded from the conflagrated prairies. It sometimes -affected our vision painfully, sometimes it so far intercepted the -rays of the sun that the disk of that luminary appeared of a -blood-red, and the eye could repose upon it uninjured. On the -morning of the 8th instant, it occurred in greater quantity than -at any other time, when it was so extremely dense as to intercept -a view of the opposite shore of the Missouri from Engineer -Cantonment. - -On the 9th of November some rain fell, attended with thunder and -lightning. The rain continued on the day following, with the wind -from the south-east; at evening the smoke was almost entirely -dissipated, and the clouds, which were cirro-cumuli passing to the -north-north-west, became visible. - -A party of Sioux visited us on the 15th of November, to view the -steam-boat. As Major Long had left orders to put the steam -machinery in action occasionally, in order to preserve it from -rust, Lieutenant Graham concluded to exhibit the boat with the -engine in action. The Indians hesitated to enter the boat, -fearing, as they said, that it was, or that it contained some -_great medicine_ of the Big-knives that might injure them. But -when on board and at their ease, one of them observed doubtingly, -{161} "he hardly thought the Big-knives had any medicine to hurt -them." They appeared much delighted with the boat; its size seemed -to surprise them, several measured the width of the deck by -straddling, instead of pacing as we do. We exhibited to them the -air-gun, magnet, &c. which considerably excited their attention. -Two of the howitzers were discharged, loaded with case-shot; the -effect produced, of the shot falling into the water, at unequal -distances and times, was new and unexpected, and they covered -their mouths with the hand, to express their astonishment. Of -these warriors, three are Tetons, one a Yancton, and a Sa-ho-ne; -three different tribes of the great Dacota or Sioux nation. They -are fine looking men, with very prominent cheekbones. They are -more attentive to their dress, and are much neater than the other -Indians we have seen; though it is proper to observe that, as -visitors, they are clothed in their best attire. They decorate -their hair with a profusion of feathers of the war eagle, and of a -species of owl which we have not seen. They also suspend in the -headdress an entire skin of the paroquet. The hair is in great -profusion, and is thrown upon the back in very long rolls; but -upon close inspection, the greater portion of it is perceived to -be false hair artificially attached to their own, the points of -junction being indicated by small masses of clay, with which the -attachment is effected. Two of these Tetons are inseparable -friends, were raised together from their infancy, and although not -allied by blood, there is a strong personal resemblance between -them, which is not a little enhanced by a studied similarity in -dress and ornaments. These two individuals are firm friends to the -whites. One of them was a few years since at the Sa-ho-ne village -in company with a trader, and being invited to a feast, they had -proceeded but a short distance, when a Sa-ho-ne rushed from his -concealment and knocked the trader down with his war-club. The -Teton immediately {162} attacked the assailant, felled him in his -turn to the earth, gashed his body with the spear of his war-club -and left him for dead. This is a strong evidence of the -determination of the savages, as they are called, to protect those -whom they consider under their guardianship. The Teton retaliated -the blow given to the trader, not only at the immediate risk of -his life in the combat, but of having to expiate the deed to many -a kindred exasperated warrior, and also at the hazard of -originating a war between the two bands. - -In the course of the winter we received frequent supplies of -provisions from Camp Missouri; and by means of some exertion and -diligence in hunting, we were able to procure plenty of fresh -venison and other game. For coffee we substituted the fruit of the -gymnocladus canadensis, which afforded a palatable and wholesome -beverage. The flesh of the _skunk_ we had sometimes dressed for -dinner, and found it a remarkably rich and delicate food. - -On the 5th of December, the gentlemen of the party dined by -invitation with Mr. M. Lisa. - -The principal Ioway chief was once at our camp; he is a very -intelligent Indian, with a solemn dignity of deportment, and would -not deign to enter our houses or even to approach them until -invited. He is said to have a more intimate knowledge of the -manners of the whites, than any other Indian of the Missouri, and -to be acquainted with many of the words of our language, but will -not willingly make use of them, fearing to express himself -improperly, or not trusting to his pronunciation. He remained near -Council Bluff in the autumn, in order to be present at the -councils with the different nations, and to observe the conduct of -the whites towards them respectively, a considerable time after -his nation had departed down the river to their beaver trapping. -After this he went with his family to the head waters of the -Boyer, and during his stay there trapped sixty {163} beaver; when -with us he was about to go in search of his people. He had three -wives with him, one of whom appeared to be about nine or ten years -of age, and whom we mistook for his daughter, until he undeceived -us. We showed him our books of engravings, with which he was -highly pleased. The Indians, almost all of them, delight to look -over engravings, particularly those which represent animals; they -are not soon fatigued when employed in this way. - -This Indian is known by several names, as Grand Batture, Hard -Heart, Sandbar, and in his own language, Wang-e-waha. During our -late contest with Great Britain, he turned his back upon his -nation, in consequence of their raising the tomahawk upon our -citizens, and crossing the Missouri, united his destiny with the -Otoes, who received and treated him with distinguished respect. -Last autumn his nation joined him, and submitted to his guidance; -so that the Otoes, Missouries, and Ioways were then united. - -Some time since in a transaction with a captain, formerly of the -United States' army, he thought himself grossly insulted, and -demanded on the spot personal satisfaction, agreeably to the -custom of the whites, challenging his opponent to single combat, -with pistols or such other weapons as he might choose. - -He is esteemed the bravest and most intelligent of the Ioways, and -amongst the Otoes he was associated with many equally brave with -himself. But as there are national prejudices amongst the Indians -as well as amongst the whites, he has not escaped from many a keen -allusion to his nation. In a quarrel, which arose from some -expressions of this nature, Ietan knocked him down with a -war-club. - -He has been in fifty battles, and has commanded in seven. - -He says the white people often request the Indians to abstain from -war, and yet the white people continue {164} to fight each other, -as if they wished to monopolize the occupation of war, and thereby -deprive the Indian of his principal avenue to honour and dignity. - -Several Omawhaws, who have been trapping in the country opposite -to Blackbird-hill, remained with us last night. The principal one, -A-ha-ga-nash-he, or the Upright Horn, has a rather handsome Sioux -squaw, to whom he appears to be much attached, paying her great -attention in conversation, giving her a portion of his whiskey, -and handing her the pipe to smoke. She is, however, not exempted -from the ordinary employments of the Indian women, and we had an -opportunity to-day of seeing her depart from Mr. Lisa's with a -heavy load, consisting of the goods which her husband had received -in exchange for his beaver, on her back, whilst he carried only a -keg of whiskey slung over his shoulders, and his gun and hunting -apparatus. Previously to the departure of the Omawhaws from our -establishment this morning, the brother of one of them, who, -report said, had been killed by the Sioux, arrived; he has been -with about ten lodges, (about twenty men) of his tribe trapping on -the Elk Horn, and they had taken about two hundred beavers. He has -taken sixty himself, of which he presented his elder brother -twenty, and is on his way to Mr. Lisa, to have a trader with -merchandize sent to his party to deal for the skins. It is a -singular circumstance, that this is the second instance of these -two brothers meeting in this vicinity, after the one had been -supposed to have been killed by the Sioux. - -A-ha-ga-nash-he, whom we invited to take up his lodgings for the -night in our room, became alarmed at my repute as a medicine man, -fearing that I would cast some spell upon him, or otherwise injure -him by the operation of some potent mystic medicine: he removed -his quarters to the adjoining room, where he seemed to think he -was safe from my incantations. - -Our hunter, whose name is No-zun-da-je; or, "He {165} that does -not dodge," is esteemed a good hunter by his nation; but he is not -a distinguished warrior, although he has been in numerous battles. -He says he has killed several red skins in action, but never yet -had the honour to _strike_ a body. He showed us the scars of many -wounds, most of which he had inflicted on himself, when in -mourning for the death of his relatives and friends, by thrusting -arrows through the skin and a portion of the flesh of his arm. His -brother, at the same time, showed many scars which he had caused -by cutting out pieces from his body with a knife, on the same -occasions. - -Several Omawhaws visited us on the 8th, and a party of three of -them, who were in possession of a keg of whiskey, invited our -hunter to accompany them, for the night, to "make his heart glad" -with a portion of its contents. The Omawhaws, Otoes, Missouries, -and Ioways are excessively attached to this destructive liquor. - -On the 9th December, Lieutenant Swift, in company with Mr. -Pilcher[193] of the Missouri Fur Company, set out on a visit to -the Omawhaws. His course was first directed towards the Elk Horn -river, tributary to the Platte, and afterwards along the valley of -the former, to the Omawhaw encampment, which he reached at the -distance of about one hundred and twenty miles. The country over -which he travelled was almost entirely destitute of woodland; the -surface generally cut by numerous ravines; the soil for the most -part sandy, but in some instances enriched by a black loam. He -returned to camp on the 23d, his companion having purchased of the -Indians one hundred and thirty beaver skins, besides raccoon and -deer skins. - -10th. By a recent occurrence, the late treaty of peace between the -Otoes and Konzas was on the eve of being infracted. The Otoes, who -were encamped for hunting near the mouth of the Platte, had four -horses stolen from them about two weeks since, and {166} -subsequently ten more. These robberies were immediately attributed -to the Konzas, and a war-party prepared themselves to march and -retaliate upon that nation. Hashea, however, prevented them from -going, saying that their father (Major O'Fallon) had been -instrumental in reconciling them to a peace with the Konzas, and -it would be highly improper for them to strike a blow, without -asking his opinion upon the subject. It seems more probable that -the horses have been taken either by the Sauks or Ioways. The -latter appears to be a faithless people; they obtained a -considerable quantity of goods on credit, last fall, from the -Missouri Fur Company, and now, we are informed, instead of -returning to discharge their debts, they are on their way down the -river to barter their beaver at Fort Osage. It is said they will -inhabit their old village, on the river Des Moines, the ensuing -season. - -12th. Many Indians visited us yesterday and to-day, some of whom -brought jerked deer meat, mockasins, &c. to exchange for their -favourite drink, and for trinkets. But as we have none of the -latter, and as the former is interdicted from them by our laws, we -are not authorized to make any purchases. That they do contrive to -get whiskey elsewhere, perhaps of the traders, we have abundant -proof. Yesterday a squaw got drunk, and made much noise; but her -companions, after much ado, carried her off to their encampment. - -As we were cutting up a log for fuel, one of the Omawhaws seeing a -knot or protuberance of the wood, suitable to form into a bowl, -requested us to cut it off for him; but not choosing to gratify -him in that manner, we offered the axe we were using, that he -might cut it in his own way; he, however, would not accept of it, -but pointed to the palm of his hand, giving us to understand that -such labour would make his hand sore and hard; he then called one -of his squaws, who immediately went to work, {167} and handled the -axe very dexterously. Observing several young Indians passing, I -indicated to her the propriety of requesting one of them to -assist her, but she laughed significantly, as if she would -say--you are ironical. - -The Indians are very fickle in bargaining. An Indian, some time -since, exchanged his rifle for Mr. Dougherty's shot gun; yesterday -he reversed the bargain, giving a pair of mockasins in return; and -this morning he requested to exchange again, in which he was -gratified. - -A squaw offered to exchange mockasins for a couple of our military -stocks. We could not conceive to what use she would apply them, -but, upon inquiry, we learned that she wished to ornament the -crupper of her horse with them. - -The stone quarry, which supplied limestone for building chimnies -at camp Missouri, was situate at the distance of an hundred yards -below our cantonment. The labourers that were employed in this -quarry opened upon many large fissures, in which were found a -number of serpents that had entered there for the purpose of -hybernating. Of these, three species appear to be new.[194] - -This morning three Omawhaws were fired upon by a war-party of five -Ioway Indians, and two were wounded; this occurred on the east -side of the river, nearly opposite to our cantonment. When they -fired, each one called out his name agreeably to the Indian -custom. A party of Omawhaws then assembled, and pursued them about -fifteen miles, but without success. - -Two Oto warriors, and a boy, nephew of Ishta-gre-ja, Gray Eyes the -elder, visited us this afternoon. They have been hunting on Blue -Water creek, in the neighbourhood of the Konzas hunting camps, and -not distant from the village of the latter; they have been so -fortunate as to take one hundred and forty beavers, the skins of -which they left at {168} their village, under the care of the son -of Gray Eyes and their squaws; their business in this quarter is -to look out for the best market for their peltries. They say it -was certainly not the Konzas who stole the horses from their -brethren who are encamped near the confluence of the Platte. They -attribute that theft to the Ioways, who, they say, are still -fools, as they always have proved themselves to be. - -30th. In the morning a nimbus from the north. An imperfect -parhelion appeared at sunrise, consisting of three luminous spots, -at about 22 deg. distant from each other in the horizon; one of them -was the real place of the sun, and the others were to the north -and south of it. As the sun ascended towards the zenith, the mock -suns continued to ascend equally and parallel with it, but became -gradually fainter until they disappeared near the zenith. - -Evening. A complete paraselene appeared about the moon, of the -diameter of 45 degrees. - -The mercury was below Zero the greater part of the day, in -Fahrenheit's thermometer. - -31st. Several Canadians in the employ of the Missouri Fur Company, -came this evening to dance and sing before us, agreeably to the -custom of their countrymen, in celebration of the termination of -the year. They were adorned with paint after the Indian manner, -clothed with bison robes, and had bells attached to different -parts of their dress. So completely were they disguised, that -three of their employers, who happened to be present, had much -difficulty in recognizing them. This dance is called _La -Gineolet_,[195] and may have had its origin in the same cause that -produced our _Belshnickles_, who make their appearance on -Christmas-eve. We gave them what was expected, whiskey, flour, and -meat. - -January 6th, 1820. Mr. Graham and I measured the width of the -river in two places, a short distance below our cantonment, and a -short distance above; [158] the latter gave two hundred and -seventy-seven and one-third yards, and the former one hundred -yards. - -We hear the barking of the prairie wolves every night about us; -they venture close to our huts; last night they ran down and -killed a doe, within a short distance of our huts; this morning -the remains of the carcass were found, consisting only of bones -and skin. - -Mr. Fontenelle,[196] in the employ of the Missouri Fur Company, -who has been absent for some time trading with one of the bands of -the Omawhaws, called to-day on his return; this band had been much -necessitated for food, subsisting for some time upon the fruit of -the red haws, which the squaws sought for beneath the proper -trees, under the snow. He met with some of the nation of Sioux, -called Gens de Feuille[197] by the French. They have been much -thinned in numbers by a disorder, which, from the description -given of it, may be the quinsy. This same band is said to have -suffered much from the small-pox last autumn. They were also now -nearly starved for want of food; but they said if they could hold -out until they arrived at Min-da-wa-cong, or Medicine lake, (on -the maps, Spirit lake,)[198] they would do very well, as they had -there a considerable quantity of wild oats buried, or _cache_, as -the French say. - -13th. Ietan,[199] an Oto, of whom we have before spoken, visited -us to-day for the purpose of getting two gun-locks mended. He left -his people at the Republican fork of the Konza river, and intends -as soon as he returns, to lead a party in pursuit of bisons, which -he says are in plenty on the Loup fork of the Platte, about sixty -miles distant from us.[200] - -14th. Ietan called this morning, and as some of our party were -going to visit at Camp Missouri, he accompanied them in order to -obtain Major O'Fallon's permission for his nation to go to war -with the {170} Konzas. He informed the agent that individuals of -that nation had sometime since stolen horses from them. That one -of the losers, Big Soldier, had gone to the Konza village to -demand the horses; but seeing a number of horses belonging to that -nation when he arrived near the village, he could not resist the -temptation of immediately retaliating by seizing several, and -appropriating them to his own use. But, Ietan said, he thought the -honour of his nation still called for war, and he solicited the -acquiescence of the agent in that measure. The Major replied, that -his opinion ought to have been asked previously to the retaliatory -measure which had already been prematurely taken, as they were not -certain that the Konzas were the offenders, and that this ought to -have been ascertained before any depredation on the Konzas had -been committed. But the course which he would now advise them to -pursue was, to send a deputation to the Konzas, for the purpose of -ascertaining the fact, to return the Konzas' horses, and to demand -their own. This course seemed satisfactory to the warrior; who, -however, stated that if the Konzas attempted to steal horses from -them in future, he would certainly lead a war party himself -against them. - -15th. Mr. Woods, of the Missouri Fur Company, has returned from a -trading excursion. He reports that he saw several of the Pawnee -_caches_, which had been broken open and robbed of their corn by -the Omawhaws. This is by no means a rare occurrence with the -Indians, but it does not appear that it has ever led to -hostilities between nations; they say that when a person is in -want of food, he has a right to take any he can find. - -Corporal Norman, who went out this morning to kill rabbits, -returned about noon with twenty-seven, which he had killed with -single balls. - -February 9th. Several Oto Indians have visited us within this day -or two, and one of them, Ca-he-ga-in-ya, {171} remained with us -last night; he was finely dressed, had on a chief's coat laced -with silver, and a profusion of wampum about his neck, and -suspended to his ears; he departed this morning on his way to the -Omawhaws, to trade for horses. - -The ice on the Missouri is sixteen inches in thickness, that of -the Boyer creek fifteen and three-fourths. - -12th. Messrs. Dougherty, Peel [Peale], and myself, with an -assistant, encamped at a pond near the Boyer to obtain fish; we -cut several holes in the ice of the pond, and obtained one otter -and a number of small fishes, amongst which three species appeared -to be new; several specimens were of the genus gasterosteus. - -15th. Mr. Zenoni, of the Fur Company, who departed the twenty-seventh -ultimo on a trading expedition, returned and remained with us last -night. He and two men had ascended the Elk Horn about twenty-five -miles higher than Mr. Swift had been, but were not successful -in finding any Indians. And although they saw a few bisons and -antelopes, and elks, they were not so fortunate as to kill any game -for subsistence, excepting three turkeys; so that they returned in -a state of considerable exhaustion, having been for some time on an -allowance of a little maize per day. He found that the upper part -of the Elk Horn had not frozen during the severe weather, but still -remained open. This circumstance seems to indicate the flow of a -great quantity of spring water, or water of a medium temperature, -in that part of the stream, requiring time to cool in its passage, -before it can congeal. - -19th. The sand is blown by the violence of the wind from the -sand-bars of the river, so as to resemble a dense fog. We have -been hitherto very well supplied with fresh meat, from game killed -principally by Mr. Peale, who, on one occasion, killed two deer at -a single shot and with one ball, but we are now reduced again to -salt pork of a very inferior quality. {172} The party, with the -exception of myself, continue to enjoy good health. - -22d. Messrs. Dougherty and Peale returned from a hunt, having -killed twelve bisons out of a herd of several hundreds they met -with near Sioux river, and brought us a seasonable supply of meat. -They saw several herds of elk, and yesterday they saw swans, -geese, and ducks, flying up the river. A dinner and ball were -given at Camp Missouri, in honour of the day, to which our party -were invited. - -24th. Mr. Graham and I endeavoured to ascertain the rapidity of -the current of this part of the Missouri, at the present low -water. We availed ourselves of a long vacancy in the ice to float -a porter bottle, to which the proper specific gravity was given, -by partially filling it with water, it was attached to a cord of -one hundred and twenty-two feet in length; it floated this -distance in six successive experiments in the following several -times 1' 07"--1' 04"--1' 07-1/2"--1' 05"--1' 07"--1' 07", the mean -of which is 1' 06-1/2" nearly, giving a velocity of 1 mile 441 -yards 1-1/2 feet per hour. - -By these experiments, however, the superficial current or stratum -only was indicated, and as we had reason to suppose that this -stratum was more impeded by friction against the inferior surface -of the ice than it would be by the atmosphere, it became an object -to ascertain the average velocity of the different depths. With -this view a staff ten feet long was made to float vertically, by -means of a weight attached to its inferior extremity; a line of -one hundred and seventy-eight feet in length was run out by this -arrangement, during the following intervals of time, in four -experiments, viz. 1' 21"--1' 21"--1' 19"--1' 21", of which the -mean is 1' 20-1/2", which would seem to indicate a current of the -velocity of 1 mile 893 yards 1 foot per hour. Thus the average -velocity of ten feet in depth of the current of the Missouri, is -greater by almost 452 yards in a single hour, than {173} that of a -superficial stratum of about six inches depth, during the -ice-bound state of the river. During these experiments the -atmosphere was nearly calm. - -25th. Cooked for dinner the entire hump of a bison, after the -manner of the Indians; this favourite part of the animal was -dissected from the vertebrae, after which the spinous processes -were taken out, and the denuded part was covered with skin, which -was firmly sewed to that of the back and sides of the hump; the -hair was burned and pulled off, and the whole mass exhibiting -something of a fusiform shape, was last evening placed in a hole -dug in the earth for its reception, which had been previously -heated by means of a strong fire in and upon it. It was now -covered with cinders and earth, to the depth of about one foot, -and a strong fire was made over it. In this situation it remained -until it was taken up for the table to-day, when it was found to -be excellent food. Mr. Lisa and family dined with us by -invitation. That we have sometimes food in great sufficiency, the -provision upon our table this day will sufficiently attest. It -consisted of the entire bison hump, above mentioned; the rump of a -bison roasted, boiled bison meat, two boiled bison tongues, the -spinous processes roasted in the manner of spare-ribs, sausages -made of minced tender loin and fat, &c. It is true that we have no -vegetables whatever, but having been so long estranged from them, -we scarcely regret their absence. Their place is supplied by -excellent wheat flour, of which our cook prepares us bread fully -equal, in point of excellence, to any that we have ever eaten. The -above repast was prepared for eleven persons, of whom two were -ladies.[201] The collation was succeeded by coffee as a desert. - -February 28th. I ascertained the temperature of spring water, -which, however, was somewhat exposed to the atmosphere, but in a -shaded situation, and in a ravine, to be 47 deg.; that of the -atmosphere being at {174} the same time 56 deg., and that of the -river 32 deg., of Fahrenheit's scale. - -Wednesday, March 8th. The Big Elk, Big Eyes, and Wash-co-mo-ne-a -visited us to-day on their way, with their attendants, to the -traders with jerked bison meat. They presented us with five large -pieces. The Big Elk, principal Omawhaw chief, is much pitted with -the smallpox, and is of commanding presence. He speaks with great -emphasis, and remarkably distinct. He observed that we must think -them strange people to be thus constantly wandering about during -the cold of winter, instead of remaining comfortably housed in -their village; "But," said he, "our poverty and necessities compel -us to do so in pursuit of game; yet we sometimes venture forth for -our pleasure, as in the present instance, to visit the white -people, whom we are always delighted to see." Big Eyes is a large -and remarkably muscular man. His nose is that of the European, the -opposite to the Roman curve; he is second chief of the Omawhaws. - -The Omawhaw chiefs remained with us the greater part of the -following day, and presented us with eight more pieces of jerked -meat. We presented them in return with some tobacco, &c. The Big -Elk made us a considerable harangue, with all the remarkable -vivacity, fluency, and nerve of Indian eloquence, in which he said -that he would address me by the title of father; "And you," said -he, to Mr. Dougherty, "whom I know so well, I will call brother. -The Indians around," said he, "who tell the white people that they -love them, speak falsely, as is proved by their killing the white -people; but my nation truly love you, they have never stained -their hands with the blood of a white man, and this much cannot be -said by any nation of this land." He added a strong expression, -that such was his attachment to us, that he believed that he -should, at a future day, be a white man himself. - -{175} When they took their leave, we advised them not to visit -Camp Missouri, telling them what, in fact, they had already been -informed of, that many of the soldiers were sick; (we did not wish -them to observe the extent of the malady, with which that camp was -afflicted,) but Big Elk remarked, that it had been his intention -to go there, and it was not fear that could prevent him; his life -was at the disposal of the great Wahconda only, and he could not -die before his time; "But," said he, "agreeably to your request I -certainly will not go." - -Of all the objects which we exhibited to the view of the chiefs, -quicksilver (mercury) seemed to excite the most surprise; they -weighed the vessel, in which it was contained, in their hands, -dipped their fingers into it, and were surprised at the resistance -which it offered to the immersion, and what appeared most singular -was, that they should be withdrawn without any appearance of -moisture upon them; that they might not be deceived they repeated -the experiment again and again. A couple of iron nails were then -thrown upon the mercury, and as these did not sink to the bottom, -they pressed them down with their fingers; but finding that the -nails constantly arose again to the surface, the Big Elk returned -the vessel to me, saying, with a smile of pleasure strongly -impressed on his strongly marked countenance, that the fluid was -the Omawhaw's Wahconda. - -The last load of stone, which was taken from the quarry early in -December last, was prevented from reaching Camp Missouri by the -floating ice; the boat was driven ashore and abandoned. It was now -observed floating down the river, with a large quantity of drift -ice; and, when opposite our cantonment, was readily secured by -Major Ketchum, without having received any injury whatever.[202] -Major Ketchum, with a detachment of men, has been engaged for two -or three days past in cutting out of the ice, three of the boats -from our harbour. These, together with {176} one, which is at Camp -Missouri, are intended to convey the sick from that camp down the -river to Fort Osage. Camp Missouri has been sickly, from the -commencement of winter; but its situation is at this time truly -deplorable. More than three hundred soldiers are, or have been -sick, and nearly one hundred have died. This fatality is -occasioned by the scurvy (scorbutus). Individuals who are seized -rarely recover, as they cannot be furnished with the proper -aliments; they have no vegetables, fresh meat, nor antiscorbutics, -so that the patients grow daily worse, and entering the hospital -is considered by them as a certain passport to the grave. Yet it -is some consolation to reflect that all the science, care, and -attention of the healing art have been exerted for the relief of -the sufferers by Doctors Gale and Moore, as far as their present -insulated situation will admit. The causes which have been -productive of all this disease, are not distinctly known, although -there are many supposed ones to which it has been imputed. But it -was generally remarked, that the hunters, who were much employed -in their avocation, and almost constantly absent from Camp -Missouri, escaped the malady. - -On the 19th, Mr. Immel,[203] of the Missouri Fur Company, -returned from an expedition to the Sioux. During his stay in the -vicinity of the pseudo volcanoes, which occur on the banks of the -Missouri, a tremendous subterranean explosion occurred, which much -alarmed the Indians as well as the whites; the concussion was -succeeded by a large volume of dense smoke from the aperture of -the volcano, by the sinking in of a portion of the hill in the -rear, and by the cracking of the ice in the river. Messrs. Peale, -Swift, and Dougherty departed in a periogue yesterday, on their -way to the Bowyer Creek to hunt. - -An igneous meteor, or jack-o'-lantern, was seen on the evening of -the 20th, near our cantonment; it was described to me as of the -size of a double fist, {177} with a caudate appendage, or tail, of -the length of about two feet; it emitted a light of the colour of -the flame of burning sulphur; it passed along the river shore -nearly over the observer's head, at but a very small elevation, -nearly in a right line, with an equable motion, about as rapid as -the flight of a bird, and with an audible sound like the blowing -of a moderate stream of air through a thicket; it was visible -about one half a minute, when it crossed the river, became paler, -and disappeared. - -The waters of the Missouri have been as clear during the winter as -ordinary rivers; the earthy matter, which they hold in suspension -during the temperate and warm weather, and which every person who -views the river remarks as characteristic of its waters, subsides -as soon as the wintry temperature occurs, but is again renewed in -the spring. They have been gradually more and more turbid, these -two or three days past. The ice in the river broke up on the 29th -ult., and entirely disappeared on the 19th instant. - -Great flights of geese, swans, ducks, brant, and cranes have been -passing up the river, at their usual migrating altitude above the -surface of the earth; but this migration of these aquatic birds -has nearly ceased. - -April 5th. A war-party of Omawhaws arrived at the trading house of -the Missouri Fur Company. They are one of three parties, which -have been for ten days past in pursuit of a war-party of thirteen -Sauks who carried off a number of horses from near the Omawhaw -village. They pursued the trail of the Sauks, until they lost it -nearly opposite to this place; they, nevertheless, continued the -pursuit in the direction which they supposed the enemy had taken, -but are now returning unsuccessful; they say they are in hopes, -that one of the other parties may overtake them. It seems -probable, that it was this same {178} party of Sauks who fired -upon a soldier on the 30th ult. - -6th. The war-party mentioned yesterday visited us this morning, on -their way home. They danced for us, and after receiving bread, -buffaloe meat, and tobacco, departed well pleased. In the -afternoon, another war-party of eleven Omawhaws, who had also been -in pursuit of the same Sauks, arrived. We were notified of their -proximity by hearing their war-song, and going out, we observed -them at a short distance arranged in a line, from the centre of -which were elevated two handsome streamers, which, upon their -approach, we found to be two long lances, to which feathers of -different colours, fancifully arranged, were attached. The -partizan advanced, and made us a speech as usual, in which he gave -an account of their adventures, and concluded by praising the -kindness of the whites, their hospitality, and their greatness in -arts and arms. This address being well understood to aim at food -and lodging, though neither of these were mentioned, we supplied -them with bison meat, bread, and maize, and invited them to remain -with us during the night to rest themselves in comfort and safety. -They immediately sat down, and, the food being portioned out by -one of the warriors, they proceeded to eat with the appearance of -such appetites as convinced us that their fast had been of long -duration. In conversation during the evening the partizan said, -that they had followed a considerable trail, supposing that the -Sauks had taken that direction; that they observed stakes stuck in -the ground at certain distances, and the trees _blazed_ as far as -they went upon that trail. He inquired if we knew the reason of -such marks; he was then informed, that it was to indicate the -course of a road which was to be made in that direction, and that -if he had travelled far enough upon the trail he would have met -with towns of white people, who would have treated him well. After -musing some time, he {179} observed, that they had travelled a -good distance on that route, and having occasion to deviate a -short distance from it, they found when they returned that a white -man and three horses had passed along during their absence; (this -was Lieutenant Fields, the express,) they immediately despatched -two of their young men back to follow him, and to learn if he had -met the fugitive Sauks; but they could not overtake him. "We -continued on," said Naugh-ken-ne (or the Left Hand), "with all -speed; but at length, being almost famished, we were necessitated -to halt and hunt; of course we gave over the pursuit. Not wishing -to return to our nation without obtaining some trophy, we resolved -to go to Nishnebottona, in order to strike upon the Ioways, who, -we had been informed, were at that place; but when we arrived -there, we had the mortification to learn that they were gone; we -must, therefore, return without these poor young men having any -opportunity to distinguish themselves." "Did you not," we asked, -"make peace with the Ioways last season?" "Yes, it is true we made -a kind of peace with them, but you know they are bad men; we do -not like them; the whites do not like them; perhaps it was a party -of that nation, and not Sauks, that stole our horses, and you know -it was very hard to be obliged, after all our difficulties and -starvations, to return to our people without either scalps or -horses. We wished to obtain some trophy that should repay us for -our toils." In the evening they sang for our amusement a number of -tunes, whilst two or three danced as well as they could in our -small chamber. A negro belonging to the Fur Company coming in on -an errand, they spoke of him as the _black white man_, and one of -them jokingly said, he was a Wasabajinga, or little black -bear.[204] - -The Indians departed early on the 7th, with many thanks for the -attention they had received. Before they went, they presented to -us a wild cat, which {180} they had shot, but we advised them to -keep it to eat on the way home, upon which they thanked us for it, -as if they had never owned it. - -11th. We learn that a third war-party of Omawhaws, who departed in -pursuit of the Sauks before either of the others, were met by a -strong party of that nation, who were on their way to the Omawhaw -village; they however escaped from them with the loss of one man -killed and several wounded; the loss of the Sauks is not known. -The party speak highly of one of their number, a boy of twelve -years, who, at a critical juncture of the engagement, ran up to -several of the enemy and flashed his gun three times at them; he -escaped unhurt. - - -FOOTNOTES: - - [189] I. _Vespertilio pruinosus._--Ears large, short, - not so long as the head, hairy on the exterior side more than - half their length; _tragus_ very obtuse at tip, arcuated; - _canine teeth_ large, prominent; _incisors_, only one distinct - one on each side, placed very near the canine, conic, almost - on a line with it, and furnished with a small tubercle on its - exterior base; _nostrils_ distant; _fur_ of the back, long, - black brown at base, then pale brownish-yellow, then blackish, - then white; towards the rump dark ferruginous takes the place - of the brownish-yellow on the fur; _beneath_ the colours are - similar to those of the back; but on the anterior portion of - the breast the fur is not tipped with white, and on the throat - it is dull yellowish-white dusky at base; the brachial - membrane is densely hairy on the anterior margin beneath; - interfemoral membrane covered with fur: length nearly 4-1/2 - inches. - - This bat is common in this region, and was observed by Mr. - Thomas Nuttall at Council Bluffs. It is a fine large species, - and remarkable for its many-coloured fur. It has much affinity - with the New York bat, (V. novaboracensis,) but is more than - double its size, and is distinguished from it by many minor - characters. - - The late professor Barton, presented a specimen of this bat to - the Philadelphia museum, that had been captured in Philadelphia. - - 2. _Vespertilio arquatus._--_Head_ large, _ears_ rather shorter - than the head, wide, and at tip, rounded, hairy at base, - posterior edge with two slight and very obtuse emarginations; - the anterior base distant from the eye; _tragus_ arquated, - obtuse at tip; interfemoral membrane naked, including the tail - to one half of the penultimate joint. - - Total length 5 inches: tail 1-1/2 inches. - - Expansion more than 13 inches. - - This bat might be readily mistaken for the Carolina bat, - (V. carolinensis, Geoff.) which it resembles in colour, but - differs from it in being of a larger size, the ears broader and - proportionally shorter, and an arquated tragus, curving in an - almost luniform manner towards the anterior portion of the ear, - like that of the V. _serotinus_, Daub. Geoff., though not so - broad. The upper incisor teeth, like those of several of our - species of bats, are not prominent; they are very much inclined - forward, and do not rise at their tips above the level of the - intermediate callosity.--JAMES. - - - [190] 1. _Canis latrans._--Cinereous or gray, varied with - black above, and dull fulvous, or cinnamon; _hair_ at base - dusky plumbeous, in the middle of its length dull cinnamon, - and at tip gray or black, longer on the vertebral line; _ears_ - erect, rounded at tip, cinnamon behind, the hair dark plumbeous - at base, inside lined with gray hair; _eyelids_ edged with - black, superior eyelashes black beneath, and at tip above; - supplemental lid margined with black-brown before, and edged - with black-brown behind; _iris_ yellow; _pupil_ black-blue; - spot upon the lachrymal sac black-brown; rostrum cinnamon, - tinctured with grayish on the nose; _lips_ white, edged with - black, three series of black seta; _head_ between the ears - intermixed with gray, and dull cinnamon, hairs dusky plumbeous - at base; _sides_ paler than the back, obsoletely fasciate with - black above the legs; _legs_ cinnamon on the outer side, more - distinct on the posterior hair: a dilated black abbreviated line - on the anterior ones near the wrist; _tail_ bushy, fusiform, - straight, varied with gray and cinnamon, a spot near the base - above, and tip black: the tip of the trunk of the tail, attains - the tip of the os calcis, when the leg is extended; _beneath_ - white, immaculate; _tail_ cinnamon towards the tip, tip black; - posterior feet four-toed, anterior five-toed. - - ft. in. - Total length (excepting the hair at tip of tail) 3 9-1/2 - Trunk of the tail 1 0-1/2 - Hind foot os calcis to tip of claw 0 7-1/5 - Fore foot elbow to tip of claw 1 0-3/4 - Ears from top of head 0 4 - Rostrum from anterior can thus of the eye 0 3-3/4 - - Taken in a trap, baited with the body of a wild cat. - - The line on the anterior side of the anterior feet, near the - wrist, is wanting in a second specimen. - - This species varies very much in size; another specimen - measured-- - - ft. in. - In total length (excepting the hair at tip of tail) 3 2-1/2 - Tail (excepting the hair at tip of tail) 0 11-3/4 - Ear from top of head to tip 0 3-5/8 - - The snout was narrower than in the preceding specimens, but in - colour similar. - - Another specimen was destitute of the cinnamon colour, - excepting on the snout, where it was but slightly apparent; - the general colour was, therefore, gray with an intermixture - of black, in remote spots and lines, varying in position and - figure with the direction of the hair. - - 2. _Canis nubilus._--Dusky, the hair cinereous at base, then - brownish-black, then gray, then black; the proportion of black - upon the hair is so considerable as to give to the whole - animal a much darker colour than the darkest of the _latrans_; - but the gray of the hairs combining with the black tips, in - the general effect, produce a mottled appearance; the gray - colour, predominates on the lower part of the sides; _ears_ - short, deep brownish-black, with a patch of gray hair on the - anterior side within; _muzzle_ blackish above; _superior - lips_, anterior to the canine teeth, gray; _inferior jaw_ at - tip, and extending in a narrowed line backwards, nearly to the - origin of the neck, gray; _beneath_ dusky ferruginous, - greyish, with long hair between the hind thighs, and with a - large white spot on the breast; the ferruginous colour is very - much narrowed on the neck, but is dilated on the lower part of - the cheeks; _legs_ brownish-black, with but a slight admixture - of gray hairs, excepting on the anterior edge of the hind - thighs, and the lower edgings of the toes, where the gray - predominates; the _tail_ is short, fusiform, a little tinged - with ferruginous black above, near the base and at tip, the - tip of the trunk hardly attaining to the os calcis; the longer - hairs of the back, particularly over the shoulders, resemble a - short sparse mane. - - ft. in. - - Length from the tip of the nose to the origin of the tail 4 3-3/4 - - Length of the trunk of the tail 1 1 - - Ear, from anterior angle to the tip 0 3-3/4 - - From the anterior angle of the ear, to the posterior - canthus of the eye, 0 4-3/4 - - From anterior canthus of the eye, to the middle of the - tip of the nose, 0 5-1/2 - - Between the anterior angles of the ears, rather more than 0 3 - - The aspect of this animal is far more fierce and formidable than - either the common red wolf, or the prairie wolf, and is of a - more robust form. The length of the ears and tail distinguish - it at once from the former, and its greatly superior size, - besides the minor characters of colour, &c., separate it from - the prairie wolf. As the black wolf (C. lycaon,) is described to - be of a deep and uniform black colour, and his physiognomy is - represented to be nearly the same as that of the common wolf, it - is beyond a doubt different from this species. It has the mane - of the _mexicanus_. It diffuses a strong and disagreeable odour, - which scented the clothing of Messrs. Peale and Dougherty, who - transported the animal several miles from where they killed it - to the cantonment. - - 1. _Sylvia celatus._--_Above_ dull greenish-olive; _rump_ and - _tail coverts_ purer greenish-olive; _primaries_ and _tail - feathers_ blackish-brown, olive-green on the exterior margins, - and white on the interior margin; _head_ very slightly and - inconspicuously crested; _crest_ with the feathers orange at - base; _bill_ horn colour, slender, base of the inferior - mandible whitish beneath; _beneath_ olivaceous yellow; - _inferior tail coverts_ pure yellow; _legs_ dusky. - - Length 5-1/4 inches. - - Shot at Engineer Cantonment early in May. This bird is - distinguished by the colour of the feathers on the crown of - the head, which are of a fulvous colour, tipped with the same - colour as that of the neck and back, so that the fulvous - colour does not appear at first sight. The wings are destitute - of any white band, and the margins of the six exterior - primaries are much paler than those of the others. We cannot - find any description of this bird; it seems, however, to - approach nearest to the S. _leucogastra_, Steph., Nashville - warbler of Wilson; but in our specimen the belly is not white, - neither does Wilson's description of the colour of the head of - his Nashville warbler agree at all with that of our bird. - - 2. _Sylvia bifasciata._--Above bluish; all beneath white; - _head_ highly varied with darker; between the eyes and bill - blackish; _bill_ black; _interscapulars_ lineate with - blackish; _wings_ blackish; _shoulders_ bluish; _wing coverts_ - with two white bands; _primaries_ margined with white on the - inner side, and with plumbeous on the exterior side; _tail_ - black; _feathers_ blackish, white on the inner margin, and - plumbeous on the exterior margin; and, excepting the two - middle ones, with a white spot on the inner side, near the - tip; _flanks_ spotted with plumbeous; _feet_ black. - - Length rather more than 4-3/4 inches. - - Shot in May, near Engineer Cantonment. This species seems to - approach very closely to S. caerulea. - - _Genus Limosa_, CUV. - - _Limosa scolopacea._--Dusky cinereous; _bill_, straight; upper - mandible a little longer, and very slightly arquated towards - the tip; the grooves continue to near the tip, about as long - again as the head, yellowish green; _tip_ black, dilated, - rugose, with a dorsal groove; _palate_ with reflected, - cartilaginous spines; _head_ with a line from the upper - mandible, passing over the eye and inferior orbit; white - _cheeks_, _chin_, _throat_, and origin of the _breast_, - cinereous; the plumage margined with dull whitish; _back_ - beneath the interscapulars, white; _rump_, plumage white, - fasciate with black; _tail coverts_, and _tail_ white fasciate - with black, which latter colour is more abundant; _lesser wing - coverts_ margined with whitish; _greater wing coverts_ black, - terminal margin white: _secondaries_ black, margin and - submargin white; _primaries_ black, interior ones very - slightly edged with white; _outer shaft_ white, a little - longer than the second; _breast_ and _belly_ white; _sides_ - spotted or undulated with blackish cinereous; _inferior tail - coverts_ with black abbreviated bands, the white prevailing; - _feet_ dirty greenish; _toes_ webbed at base, the exterior one - reaching the first joint of outer toe, the interior one very - short; _hind toe_ rather long. - - inches. - Length from tip of bill to that of the tail, 11-3/4 - Length of bill, 2-3/4 - Length of feet, 5-3/4 - Length from the knee to the origin of the feathers, 1-1/10 - - Tail projecting more than one inch beyond the tip of the wing. - - Several specimens were shot in a pond near the Bowyer creek. - Corresponds with the genus scolopax, Cuv. in having the dorsal - grooves at the tip of the upper mandible, and in having this - part dilated and rugose; but the eye is not large, nor is it - placed far back upon the head; which two latter characters, - combined with its more elevated and slender figure, and the - circumstance of the thighs being denudated of feathers high - above the knee, and the exterior toe being united to the middle - toe by a membrane, which extends as far as the first joint, - and the toes being also margined, combine to distinguish this - species from those of the genus to which the form and characters - of its bill would refer it, and approach it more closely to - _limosa_. In one specimen the two exterior primaries on each - wing were light brown, but the quills were white. It may perhaps - with propriety be considered as the type of a new genus, and - under the following characters, be placed between the genera - scolopax and limosa. - - _Bill_ longer than the head, dilated and rugose at tip: _tip_ - slightly curved downwards, and with a dorsal groove: _nasal - groove_ elongated; _feet_ long, an extensive naked space above - the knee; _toes_ slightly margined, a membrane connecting the - basal joints of the exterior toes; first of the primaries - rather longest. - - _Genus Pelidna_, CUV. - - 1. _Pelidna pectoralis._--_Bill_ black, reddish-yellow at - base; upper mandible with a few indented punctures near the - tip; _head_ above black, plumage margined with ferruginous, a - distinct brown line from the eye to the upper mandible; - _cheeks_ and _neck_ beneath cinereous very slightly tinged - with rufous, and lineate with blackish; _orbits_ and line over - the eye white; _chin_ white; _neck_ above dusky, plumage - margined with cinereous, _scapulars_, _interscapulars_, and - _wing coverts_ black, margined with ferruginous, and near the - exterior tips with whitish; _primaries_ dusky, slightly edged - with whitish, outer quill shaft white; _back_, (beneath the - interscapulars, _rump_) and _tail coverts_ black, immaculate; - _tail feathers_ dusky, margined with white at tip, two - intermediate ones longest, acute, attaining the tip of the - wings, black, edged with ferruginous: _breast_, _venter_, - _vent_ and _inferior tail coverts_ white, plumage blackish at - base; _sides_ white, the plumage towards the tail slightly - lineate with dusky; _feet_ greenish-yellow; _toes_ divided to - the base. - - Length nearly 9 inches. - Bill 1-1/8 inches. - - This bird in many respects resembles _cinclus_, but as the - average size of that bird is stated at seven inches and one or - two lines, ours is doubtless a distinct species. Many flocks - of them were seen at Engineer Cantonment, both in the spring - and autumn, the individuals of which corresponded in point of - magnitude: we add a description for the information of - ornithologists. It is described from a specimen in the - autumnal plumage. In the spring dress, the colour of the - superior part of the bird is much paler, almost destitute of - black, and the feathers are brownish, margined with pale - cinereous; the superior part of the head is always darker than - any part of the neck, and margined with ferruginous; the - plumage of the neck beneath, and the breast, does not appear - to be subject to so much change, as that of the superior part - of the body. - - 2. _Pelidna cinclus._ VAR.--Above blackish-brown, plumage - edged with cinereous, or whitish; _head_ and _neck_ above - cinereous with dilated fuscous lines; _eyebrows_ white; a - brown line between the eye and corner of the mouth, above - which the front is white; _cheeks_, _sides of the neck_, and - _throat_, cinereous, lineate with blackish-brown; _bill_ - short, straight, black; _chin_, _breast_, _belly_, _vent_, and - _inferior tail coverts_ pure white, plumage plumbeous at base; - _scapulars_ and _lesser wing coverts_ margined with white; - _greater wing coverts_ with a broad white tip; _primaries_ - surpassing the tip of the tail, blackish, slightly edged with - whitish, exterior shaft white, shafts whitish on the middle of - their length; _rump_ blackish, plumage margined at tip with - cinereous tinctured with rufous; _tail coverts_ white, - submargins black; _tail feathers_ cinereous margined with - white, two middle ones slightly longer, black, margined with - white; _legs_ blackish. A male. - - Length to tip of tail 7 inches. - Bill 7/8 of an inch. - - This bird was shot in November, near Engineer Cantonment, and - it is probably a variety of the very variable _cinclus_ in its - winter plumage.--JAMES. - - - [191] A sketch of Big Elk is given in Bradbury's _Travels_, - volume v of our series, note 52.--ED. - - - [192] Some reminiscences of White Cow (or White Buffalo), will - be found in Nebraska Historical Society _Transactions_, i, p. 79 - _et seq._--ED. - - - [193] Joshua Pilcher was a Virginian who came to St. Louis when - a young man, during the War of 1812-15, and there plied his - trade of hatter. He became a director of the bank of St. Louis, - and entered the Missouri Fur Company upon its organization, - succeeding Manuel Lisa as president upon the latter's death. - Upon the dissolution of this company, he was for a time - at Council Bluffs in charge of the American Fur Company's - interests. He succeeded William Clark as superintendent of - Indian affairs (1838), holding the position until his death, in - 1847.--ED. - - - [194] _Coluber flaviventris._--Olivaceous, beneath yellow; - inferior jaw beneath white; scales destitute of carina. - - Description. _Body_ above, olivaceous; tinged with brown on the - vertebrae; _scales_ impunctured at tip, posterior edges and basal - edge black; _skin_ black, beneath yellow, rather paler behind; - _inferior jaw_ beneath white to the origin of the plates; _head_ - with nine plates above, two longitudinal series, of about four - large scales each, intervening on each side between the two - posterior plates and the three posterior supermaxillary plates; - intermaxillary plate somewhat heptagonal, dilated, emarginate at - the mouth, superior angle obtusely pointed; _eye_ black-brown, - pupil deep black, surrounded by a whitish line, posterior - canthus with two plates. - - Plates 176, scales 84 - Plates 174, - ---- - - ft. in. - Total length 3 4-1/2 - Tail 8-5/8 - Head, to the tip of the maxillary bones 1-3/20 - - Another specimen, plates 130, scales 91. - Total length 3 11-3/8 - Tail 11-1/2 - - Three specimens were found. The inferior surface of one was - immaculate, but that of the smaller one had on each side of - the plates an obsolete double series of reddish-brown spots, - irregularly alternate on each side; these were so indistinct - as not to be noticed at the first glance of the eye. The tip - of the tail in this last is deficient. - - 2. _Coluber parietalis._--Above blackish, with three yellowish - fillets, and about eighty red concealed spots; beneath bluish; - a series of black dots each side. - - Description. _Body_ above black-brown, a vertebral greenish - yellow vitta, and a lateral pale yellow one, beneath which is - a fuliginous shade; between the dorsal and lateral vitta are - about eighty concealed red spots or semifasciae, formed upon the - skin and lateral margins of the scales, obsolete towards the - cloaca, at which the series terminates; _scales_ elongated, - all carinate, and slightly reflexed at the lateral edges; - _head_ dark olive, beneath white, _parietal plates_ with a - double white spot at the middle of the suture; _intermaxillary - plate_ subhexagonal, emarginate at the mouth, and at tip hardly - angulated, almost rounded in that part, transverse diameter - nearly double the longitudinal; _superior maxillary plates_ - white, intermediate sutures blackish; _eye_ yellowish, pupil - black, posterior canthus two-scaled, beneath bluish green, a - longitudinal series of black dots each side at the base of the - scuta, terminating at the cloaca. - - Plates 165, scales 88. - - ft. in. - Total length 1 3-3/10 - Tail 4-9/10 - - This is a common serpent in this section of country. In order - to render the lateral red spots very apparent, it is necessary - to dilate the skin, when they exhibit a very striking - character, being of a vermilion red. It varies in having the - lateral series of red spots alternating with a series of - smaller red spots nearer to the dorsal line. - - In common with _ordinatus_ it has a double common white spot - on the parietal plates, and a series of black spots on each - side of the interior surface of the body; but in addition to - the proportions of plates, and scales, and length of tail, the - red colour of the lateral concealed spots very sufficiently - denotes its specific dissimilarity from that most common of - the serpents of the United States. - - 3. _Coluber proximus._--Body above black, trilineate, - vertebral line ocraceous, lateral one yellowish, a double - white spot on the parietal plates. - - Description. _Body_ above black, with three vittae; vertebral - vitta ocraceous, occupying the dorsal series of scales and a - moiety of each one of the second series each side; lateral - vitta greenish-yellow, occupying more than the moiety of the - seven and eight series of scales: beneath the lateral vitta - the black is tinged with greenish-blue; _head_ with seven - olivaceous plates above; parietal ones with a double, white, - longitudinal spot: _intermaxillary plate_ pentangular, the - superior termination obtusely rounded; _posterior canthus of - the eye_ three-scaled, of which the two inferior ones are - white; _anterior canthus_ white; _supermaxillary plates_ - bluish-green; _maxillary angles_ with a small black dot; - _inferior maxilla_ white beneath; beneath pale greenish-blue. - - Plates 178, scales 86. - - Total length 2 ft. 7-1/4 in. - Tail 7-3/4 in. - - Resembles _Coluber saurita_, _ordinatus_ and _parietalis_. - Numerous longitudinal, abbreviated white lines, may be - observed by dilating the black portion of the skin as in - _ordinatus_; these lines or spots are obsolete upon the neck - and upon the posterior portion of the body. The extreme tip of - the tail is wanting in this specimen. - - It differs from _saurita_ in the numerical proportion which - its subcaudal scales bear to its plates; from _ordinatus_ it - may be distinguished by being destitute of the two series of - black points beneath; it is a much more slender serpent than - _parietalis_, and the tail is proportionally longer.--JAMES. - - - [195] The name of this dance is apparently a derivative of the - Canadian-French _gingue_ (_se mettre en_), meaning to engage in - the gaiety of a lively company. The verb _ginguer_ means to run - or jump hither and thither; it is a derivative of the Norman - _giguer_, which has the same meaning.--ED. - - - [196] Lucien Fontenelle, born in New Orleans of French parents, - fled from his home when fifteen years of age, and engaged in the - fur-trade at St. Louis. Later he became a leader in the mountain - explorations of the American Fur Company. His wife was an Omaha - woman, and some of his descendants were prominent in the history - of Nebraska; a son, Logan Fontenelle, became a chief of the - Omaha tribe. Fontenelle is supposed by some to have committed - suicide at Fort Laramie, about 1836, but the manner of his death - is uncertain.--ED. - - - [197] The Gens des Feuilles (People of the Leaves) were the - Assiniboin tribe of the Siouan family. Lewis and Clark reported - their numbers at two hundred and fifty men. At that time they - lived on White River, in South Dakota.--ED. - - - [198] In Dickinson County, Iowa.--ED. - - - [199] Sha-mon-e-kus-se.--JAMES. - - - [200] Loup (Wolf) River is a large northern tributary of - the Platte, which empties into the latter a few miles below - Columbus, Platte County. It rises in the arid sand hills of - northwestern Nebraska, and flows southeast for three hundred - miles to the confluence. It is sometimes called the Pawnee Loup - River, from the dominant Indian tribe on its waters.--ED. - - - [201] One of the ladies was Madam Lisa; the name of the other is - not known. They are supposed to have been the first white women - to ascend the Missouri to this point.--ED. - - - [202] Daniel Ketchum owed his title of major to a brevet awarded - for distinguished services at the battle of Niagara Falls. - He entered the army early in the war as second lieutenant in - the 25th Infantry, and rose through a first lieutenancy to a - captaincy in 1813. He died in 1828.--ED. - - - [203] Little is recorded concerning this individual. His name - was probably Michael, and he had been a United States army - officer. The circumstances of his death are better known than - the incidents of his life, he having been killed by the Indians - (1823) on the Yellowstone.--ED. - - - [204] Compare the astonishment of the Indians at the appearance - of Captain Clark's negro servant York, in Thwaites, _Original - Journals of the Lewis and Clark Expedition_, index.--ED. - - - - -{181} CHAPTER X[205] - - Account of the Omawhaws--Their manners and customs, and - religious rites--Historical notices of Black Bird, late - principal chief. - - -A great portion of the information contained in the following -pages, respecting the Missouri Indians, and particularly the -Omawhaws, was obtained from Mr. John Dougherty, deputy Indian -agent for the Missouri, who had an excellent opportunity of making -himself acquainted with the natives, by residing for a time in the -Omawhaw village, and by visiting all the different nations of this -river. - -This gentleman with great patience, and in the most obliging -manner, answered all the questions which I proposed to him, -relating to such points in their manners, habits, opinions, and -history, as we had no opportunity of observing ourselves. And we -have much to regret that it is not in our power to present the -reader with a biographical sketch of this amiable and intrepid -traveller. - -The permanent Omawhaw village is situate on Omawhaw Creek, within -two and a half miles of the Missouri river, and about one hundred -miles by water above Engineer Cantonment, and seventy by land. It -consists of dirt lodges, similar to those of the Konzas already -described. Omawhaw creek takes its rise from the bluffs in the -rear of the village, and discharges into the river at the distance -of seven miles below. About two miles from the town it dilates -into a large pond, which is filled with luxuriant {182} aquatic -plants, amongst which the zizania and nelumbium, are particularly -worthy of note both for their beauty and importance for economical -purposes. A fertile prairie, of the length of four miles by one -mile and three quarters wide, is outspread in front of the -village, and is bounded near the river by a narrow line of timber. - -The inhabitants occupy their village not longer than five months -in the year. In April they arrive from their hunting excursions, -and in the month of May they attend to their horticultural -interests, and plant maize, beans, pumpkins, and water-melons, -besides which they cultivate no other vegetable. They also at this -season dress the bison skins, which have been procured during the -winter hunt, for the traders, who generally appear for the purpose -of obtaining them. The young men, in the mean time, are employed -in hunting within the distance of seventy or eighty miles around -for beaver, otter, deer, musk-rat, elk, &c. - -When the trading and planting occupations of the people are -terminated, and provisions begin to fail them, which occurs -generally in June, the chiefs assemble a council for the purpose -of deliberating upon the further arrangements necessary to be -made. This assembly decrees a feast to be prepared on a certain -day, to which all the distinguished men of the nation are to be -invited, and one of their number is appointed to have it prepared -in his own lodge. On the return of this individual to his -dwelling, he petitions his squaws to have pity on him, and proceed -to clean and adjust the apartment, to spread the mats and skins -for seats, and to collect wood and bring water for cooking. He -requests them to provide three or four large kettles, to prepare -the maize, and to kill their fattest dog for a feast. The squaws -generally murmur at this last proposition, being reluctant to -sacrifice these animals, which are so serviceable to them in -carrying burdens, like the dogs of the oberrating Tartars; but -when they are informed {183} of the honour that awaits them, of -feasting all the distinguished men, they undertake their duties -with pride and satisfaction. - -When they have performed their part, the squaws give notice to the -husband, who then calls two or three old public criers to his -lodge; he invites them to be seated near him, and after the -ceremony of smoking, he addresses them in a low voice, directing -them to pass through the village, and invite the individuals whom -he names to them, to honour him by their presence at the feast, -which is now prepared, "Speak in a loud voice," says he, "and tell -them to bring their bowls and spoons." The criers having thus -received their instructions, sally out together, and in concert -sing aloud as they pass in various directions through the village. -In this song of invitation, the names of all the elect are -mentioned. Having performed this duty, they return to the lodge, -and are soon followed by the chiefs and warriors. - -The host seats himself in the back part of the lodge facing the -entrance, where he remains during the ceremony. - -If the host is invested with the dignity of chief, he directs -those who enter, where to seat themselves, so that the chiefs may -be arranged on one side, and the warriors on the other; if he is a -warrior, he seats the principal chief of the village by his side, -who whispers in his ear the situation which those who enter ought -to occupy; this intimation is repeated aloud by the host. - -When the guests are all arranged, the pipe is lighted, and the -indispensable ceremony of smoking succeeds. - -The principal chief, Ongpatonga, then rises, and extending his -expanded hand towards each in succession,[206] gives thanks to -them individually by name, for the honour {184} of their company, -and requests their patient attention to what he is about to say. -He then proceeds somewhat in the following manner. "Friends and -relatives: we are assembled here for the purpose of consulting -respecting the proper course to pursue in our next hunting -excursion, or whether the quantity of provisions at present on -hand, will justify a determination to remain here to weed our -maize. If it be decided to depart immediately, the subject to be -then taken into view will be the direction, extent, and object -of our route; whether it would be proper to ascend Running-Water -creek, (Ne-bra-ra, or Spreading water), or the Platte, (Ne-bres-kuh, -or Flat water), or hunt the bison between the sources of those two -streams; or whether we shall proceed farther, towards the black -hills of the south-west, in pursuit of wild horses, &c." - -Having thus disclosed the business of the council, he is -frequently succeeded by an old chief, who thanks him for his -attention to their wants, and advises the assembly to pay great -attention to what he has said, as he is a man of truth, of -knowledge, and of bravery; he further assures them, that they have -ample cause to return thanks to the great Wahconda or Master of -life, for having sent such a man amongst them. - -The assembly then take the subject into consideration, and after -much conversation, determine upon a route, which Ongpatonga -proposed in his speech. This chief, previous to the council, is -careful to ascertain the opinions and wishes of his people, and he -speaks accordingly. - -He sometimes, however, meets with opposition from persons who -propose other hunting grounds, but their discourses are filled -with compliments to his superior knowledge and good sense. - -The proceedings of the council are uniformly conducted with the -most perfect good order and decorum. - -{185} Each speaker carefully abstains from militating against the -sensibility of any of his hearers, and uncourteous expressions -towards each other on these occasions, are never heard. Generally -at each pause of the speaker, the audience testify their -approbation aloud, by the interjection _heh_; and as they believe -that he has a just right to his own opinions, however absurd they -may appear to be, and opposite to their own, the expression of -them excites no reprehension, and if they cannot approve, they do -not condemn, unless urged by necessity. - -During the council, the criers remain seated near the fire -listening to the proceedings, and at the same time attending to -the culinary apparatus, as neither the squaws nor the children are -admitted. - -When the food is sufficiently cooked, the criers remove the -kettles from the fire, and, at the proper time, one of them takes -up a portion of the soup in a spoon, and after presenting it -towards each of the cardinal points with one hand, whilst the -other is elevated, and the palm extended, he casts it into the -ashes of the fire; a small piece of the choice part of the meat is -also sacrificed to the great Wahconda with the same formality, and -is doubtless intended as an impetratory oblation. - -They then serve out the food to the guests, placing the best -portions of it before the chiefs. Each individual on the -reception of his portion, returns his thanks to the host in -such respectful expressions as become his relative consequence, -as How-je-ne-ha--How-we-sun-guh--How-na-ga-ha, &c.; thank you -father--thank you younger brother--thank you uncle, &c., after -which they eat in silence. The criers help themselves out of the -kettles, but are careful to leave a portion in those that are -borrowed, to compensate for their use. - -The feast terminated, the ceremony of smoking succeeds, after -which, the business and enjoyments of the council being concluded, -the guests rise up in {186} succession, and returning thanks to -the host, pass out of the lodge in an orderly manner, first the -warriors and afterwards the chiefs. - -The criers now sing through the village in praise of the host, -thanking him before the people for his hospitality, repeating also -the names of the chiefs who were present, and thanking them for -their kindness to the old criers, who, they say, are disqualified -by age for any other occupations than those of eating, smoking, -and talking; they also communicate to the people the resolutions -of the council. - -The prospect of a journey is highly grateful to the squaws, who -lose no time in preparing for the day of departure, by actively -and assiduously occupying themselves in mending mockasins and -other clothing, preparing their pack-saddles and dog-sleds, and -depositing in the earth, for safe keeping, all the moveables which -are not to be transported with them on the journey. - -The men in the mean time amuse themselves with hunting, playing -with the hoop and stick, cards, dancing, &c.; whilst at night the -young warriors and beaux are occupied with affairs of gallantry, -or contriving assignations. The young men also adorn themselves -with paint, and do honour to chiefs and distinguished braves, by -dancing in their respective lodges. - -The day assigned for their departure having arrived, the squaws -load their horses and dogs, and take as great a weight upon their -own backs as they can conveniently transport, and, after having -closed the entrances to their several habitations, by placing a -considerable quantity of brushwood before them, the whole nation -departs from the village. - -Those affluent chiefs and warriors who are the owners of many -horses, are enabled to mount their families on horseback, but the -greater portion {187} of the young men and squaws are necessarily -pedestrians. - -Many of the latter, besides the heavy load upon their backs, -surmounted perhaps by an infant, lead a horse with one hand, on -the load of which another child is often placed, and properly -secured there in a sitting posture. In the other hand they often -bear a heavy staff of wood, sharpened to a broad edge at one end -for the purpose of digging up the _Nu-ga-re_, or ground-apple, -called by the French _Pomme blanche_; a root resembling a long -turnip, about the size of a hen's egg, with a rough thick skin, -and hard pith. It is sometimes eaten raw, and has a sweet taste, -but is rather dry; or it is dried in the sun, and pulverized; in -this state it furnishes the chief ingredient of an excellent soup. - -The men scatter about in every direction to reconnoitre the -country for enemies and game; but, notwithstanding the constant -activity of the hunters, the people are often much necessitated -for food previously to their arrival within view of the bisons, an -interval of fifteen or twenty days. - -When at length the highly welcome news is brought of the proximity -of a herd of these animals, the nation proceeds to encamp at the -nearest water-course. - -The travelling huts, or as they are usually denominated, skin -lodges, are neatly folded up, and suspended to the pack-saddle of -the horse, for the purpose of transportation. The poles intended -to sustain it are at one extremity, laid upon the neck of the -horse, whilst the opposite end trails upon the ground behind. When -pitched, the skin lodge is of a high conic form; they are -comfortable, effectually excluding the rain, and in cold weather a -fire is kindled in the centre, the smoke of which passes off -through the aperture in the top; on one side of this aperture is a -small triangular wing of skin, which serves for a cover {188} in -rainy weather, and during the rigors of winter to regulate the -ascent of the smoke. The doorway is a mere opening in the skin, -and closed when necessary by the same material. They are often -fancifully ornamented on the exterior, with figures, in blue and -red paint, rudely executed, though sometimes depicted with no -small degree of taste. - -The hunters, who are in advance of the main body on the march, -resort to telegraphic signals, from an elevated position, to -convey to the people information respecting their discoveries. If -they see bisons, they throw up their robes in a peculiar manner, -as a signal for a halt; another disposition of the robe intimates -the proximity of an enemy; and if one of their party has been -killed, two of the survivors communicate the intelligence by -running towards each other from a little distance, and on passing, -one of them casts himself upon the earth. - -On perceiving these latter signals, the warriors of the nation -cast the burdens from the horses, and with their martial weapons -ride in full speed to meet them, exhibiting more the appearance of -a race, than an ordinary advance to mortal combat. - -The hunters, after making the signal for bisons, to induce the -people to halt and encamp, return as expeditiously as possible, -and on their approach are received with some ceremony. The chiefs -and magi are seated in front of their people, puffing smoke from -their pipes, and thanking the Master of life, with such -expressions as "How-wa-con-da," "Thanks Master of life,"-- -"How-nin-e-shet-ta-wa-con-da-a-mah-pan-ne-nah-pa-e-wa-rat-a-cum-ba-ra."-- -"Thank you, Master of life, here is smoke, I am poor, hungry, and -want to eat." The hunters draw near to the chiefs and magi, and in -a low tone of voice inform them of the discovery of bisons. They -are questioned as to the number, and reply by holding up to the -view some small sticks in a horizontal position, {189} and compare -one herd at a stated distance with this stick, and another with -that, &c. - -It is then the business of some old man or crier to harangue the -people, informing them of the discovery, requesting the squaws to -keep in good heart, telling them they have endured many hardships -with fortitude, that there is now a termination to their -difficulties for the present, and that on the morrow the men will -go in pursuit of the bisons, and without doubt bring them plenty -of meat. - -On all occasions of public rejoicings, festivals, dances, or -general hunts, a certain number of resolute warriors are -previously appointed, to preserve order, and keep the peace. In -token of their office they paint themselves entirely black; -usually wear the _crow_, and arm themselves with a whip or -war-club, with which they punish on the spot those who misbehave, -and are at once both judges and executioners. Thus, at the bison -hunts, they knock down or flog those whose manoeuvres tend to -frighten the game, before all are ready, or previously to their -having arrived at the proper point, from which to sally forth upon -them. - -Four or five such officers, or soldiers, are appointed at a -council of the chiefs, held in the evening, to preserve order -amongst the hunters for the succeeding day. - -On the following morning, all the men, excepting the superannuated, -depart early in pursuit of the favourite game. They are generally -mounted, armed with bows and arrows. The soldiers of the day -accompany the rapidly moving cavalcade on foot, armed with -war-clubs, and the whole are preceded by a footman bearing a pipe. - -On coming in sight of the herd, the hunters talk kindly to their -horses, applying to them the endearing names of father, brother, -uncle, &c.; they petition them not to fear the bisons, but to run -well, {190} and keep close to them, but at the same time to avoid -being gored. - -The party having approached as near to the herd as they suppose -the animals will permit, without taking alarm, they halt, to give -the pipe-bearer an opportunity to perform the ceremony of smoking, -which is considered necessary to their success. He lights his -pipe, and remains a short time with his head inclined, and the -stem of the pipe extended towards the herd. He then smokes, and -puffs the smoke towards the bisons, towards the heavens, and the -earth, and finally to the cardinal points successively. These last -they distinguish by the terms _sunrise_, _sunset_, _cold country_, -and _warm country_ or they designate them collectively, by the -phrase of the _four winds_, _Ta-da-sa-ga-to-ba_. - -The ceremony of smoking being performed, the word for starting is -given by Ongpatonga. They immediately separate into two bands, who -pass in full speed to the right and left, and perform a -considerable circuit, with the object of enclosing the herd, at a -considerable interval, between them. - -They then close in upon the animals, and each man endeavours to -kill as many of them as his opportunity permits. - -It is upon this occasion that the Indians display their -horsemanship, and dexterity in archery. Whilst in full run they -discharge the arrow with an aim of much certainty, so that it -penetrates the body of the animal behind the shoulder. If it -should not bury itself so deeply as they wish, they are often -known to ride up to the enraged animal and withdraw it. They -observe the direction and depth to which the arrow enters, in -order to ascertain whether or not the wound is mortal, of which -they can judge with a considerable degree of exactness; when a -death-wound is inflicted, the hunter raises a shout of exultation, -to prevent others from pursuing the individual of which {191} he -considers himself certain. He then passes in pursuit of another, -and so on, until his quiver is exhausted, or the game has passed -beyond his further pursuit. - -The force of the arrow, when discharged by a dexterous and -athletic Indian, is very great, and we were even credibly -informed, that under favourable circumstances, it has been known -to pass entirely through the body of a bison, and actually to fly -some distance, or fall to the ground on the opposite side of the -animal. - -Notwithstanding the apparent confusion of this engagement, and -that the same animal is sometimes feathered by arrows from -different archers, before he is despatched, or considered mortally -wounded, yet as each man knows his own arrows from all others, and -can also estimate the nature of the wound, whether it would -produce a speedy death to the animal, quarrels respecting the -right of property in the prey seldom occur, and it is consigned to -the more fortunate individual, whose weapon penetrated the most -vital part. - -The chase having terminated, each Indian can trace back his -devious route to the starting-place, so as to recover any small -article he may have lost. - -This surrounding chase the Omawhaws distinguish by the name of -Ta-wan-a-sa. - -A fleet horse well trained to the hunt, runs at the proper -distance, with the reins thrown upon his neck, parallel with the -bison, turns as he turns, and does not cease to exert his speed -until the shoulder of the animal is presented, and the fatal arrow -is implanted there. He then complies with the motion of his rider, -who leans to one side, in order to direct his course to another -bison. Such horses as these are reserved by their owners -exclusively for the chase, and are but rarely subjected to the -drudgery of carrying burdens. - -When the herd has escaped, and those that are {192} only wounded -or disabled are secured, the hunters proceed to flay and cut up -the slain. - -Formerly, when the chiefs possessed a greater share of power than -they now do, one of them would advance towards a carcass which -struck his fancy, either from its magnitude or fatness, and the -rightful owner would relinquish it to him without a word; but they -now seldom put the generosity of the people thus to the test. - -Some individual will usually offer his bison to the medicine, -either voluntarily, or at the request of a chief, and on the -succeeding day it is cooked, and all the distinguished men are -invited to partake of the feast. - -In the operation of butchering, a considerable knowledge of the -anatomical structure of the animal is exhibited, in laying open -the muscles properly, and extending them out into the widest and -most entire surfaces, by a judicious dissection. - -If they are much pressed by hunger, they in the first place open -the flank in order to obtain the kidneys, which are then eaten -without waiting for the tardy process of culinary preparation. - -A hunter who has been unsuccessful, assists some one in skinning -and cutting up, after which he thrusts his knife in the part he -wishes for his own share, and it is given to him. - -If the squaws should arrive, the knife is resigned to them, whilst -the men retire a short distance from the scene, to smoke and rest -themselves. - -The slaughtered animals are chiefly, and almost exclusively, cows -selected from the herd; the bulls being eatable only in the months -of May and June. - -Every eatable part of the animal is carried to the camp and -preserved, excepting the feet and the head; but the brains are -taken from the skull for the purpose of dressing the skin, or -converting it into Indian leather. Those skins which are obtained -during this season are known by the name _Summer skins_, and {193} -are used in the construction of their skin lodges, and for their -personal cloathing for summer wear. - -Three squaws will transport all the pieces of the carcass of a -bison, excepting the skin, to the camp, if the latter is at any -moderate distance; and it is their province to prepare the meat, -&c. for keeping. - -The vertebrae are comminuted by means of stone-axes, similar to -those which are not unfrequently ploughed up out of the earth in -the Atlantic states; the fragments are then boiled, and the rich -fat or medulla which rises, is carefully skimmed off and put up in -bladders for future use. The muscular coating of the stomach is -dried; the smaller intestines are cleaned and inverted, so as to -include the fat that had covered their exterior surface, and then -dried; the larger intestines, after being cleaned, are stuffed -with meat, and cooked for present eating. - -The meat, with the exception of that of the shoulders, or hump, as -it is called, is then dissected with much skill into large thin -slices, and dried in the sun, or jerked over a slow fire on a low -scaffold. - -The bones of the thighs, to which a small quantity of flesh is -left adhering, are placed before the fire until the meat is -sufficiently roasted, when they are broken, and the meat and -marrow afford a most delicious repast. These, together with the -tongue and hump, are esteemed the best parts of the animals. - -The meat, in its dried state, is closely condensed together into -quadrangular packages, each of a suitable size, to attach -conveniently to one side of the packsaddle of a horse. The dried -intestines are interwoven together into the form of mats, and tied -up into packages of the same form and size. They then proceed to -_cache_, or conceal in the earth these acquisitions, after which -they continue onward in pursuit of other herds of their favourite -animal. - -The nation return towards their village in the month of August, -having visited for a short time the {194} Pawnee villages, for the -purpose of trading their guns for horses. - -They are sometimes so successful in their expedition, in the -accumulation of meat, as to be obliged to make double trips, -returning about mid-day for half the whole quantity which was left -in the morning. When within two or three days journey of their own -village, runners are despatched to it, charged with the duty of -ascertaining the safety of it, and the state of the maize. - -On the return of the nation, which is generally early in September, -a different kind of employment awaits the ever-industrious squaws. -The property buried in the earth is to be taken up and arranged -in the lodges, which are cleaned out and put in order. The weeds -which, during their absence, had grown up in every direction -through the village, are cut down and removed. - -A sufficient quantity of sweet corn is next to be prepared for -present and future use. Whilst the maize is yet in the milk or -soft state, and the grains have nearly attained to their full -size, it is collected and boiled on the cob; but the poor who -have no kettles, place the ear, sufficiently guarded by its husk, -in the hot embers until properly cooked; the maize is then dried, -shelled from the cob, again exposed to the sun, and afterwards -packed away for keeping, in neat leathern sacks. The grain -prepared in this manner has a shrivelled appearance, and a sweet -taste, whence its name. It may be boiled at any season of the year -with nearly as much facility as the recent grain, and has much the -same taste. - -They also pound it into a kind of small hominy, which when boiled -into a thick mush, with a proper proportion of the smaller -entrails and jerked meat, is held in much estimation. - -When the maize which remains on the stalk is fully ripe, it is -gathered, shelled, dried, and also packed away in leathern sacks. -They sometimes {195} prepare this hard corn for eating, by the -process of leying it, or boiling it in a ley of wood-ashes for the -space of an hour or two, which divests it of the hard exterior -skin; after which it is well washed and rinsed. It may then be -readily boiled to an eatable softness, and affords a palatable -food. - -The hard ripe maize is also broken into small pieces between two -stones, one or two grains at a time, the larger stone being placed -on a skin, that the flying fragments may not be lost. This coarse -meal is boiled into a mush called Wa-na-de. It is sometimes -parched previously to being pounded, and the mush prepared from -this description of meal is distinguished by the term Wa-jun-ga. -With each of these two dishes, a portion of the small prepared -intestines of the bison, called Ta-she-ba, are boiled, to render -the food more sapid. - -Their pumpkins, Wat-tong, are boiled, or rather steamed, as the -pot is filled with them cut in slices, with the addition of a very -small quantity of water. But the greater number of these -vegetables are cut into long slips, and, as well as the smaller -intestines and stomach of the bison, cut in pieces, are interwoven -as before mentioned into a kind of network. - -A singular description of food is made use of by some tribes of -the Snake Indians, consisting chiefly, and sometimes wholly of a -species of ant, (formica, Lin.) which is very abundant in the -region in which they roam. The squaws go in the cool of the -morning to the hillocks of these active insects, knowing that then -they are assembled together in the greatest numbers. Uncovering -the little mounds to a certain depth, the squaws scoop them up in -their hands, and put them into a bag prepared for the purpose. -When a sufficient number are obtained, they repair to the water, -and cleanse the mass from all the dirt and small pieces of wood -collected with them. The ants are then placed upon a flat stone, -and by the pressure of a rolling-pin, are crushed together into a -dense {196} mass, and rolled out like pastry. Of this substance a -soup is prepared, which is relished by the Indians, but is not at -all to the taste of white men. Whether or not this species of ant -is analogous to the vachacos, which Humboldt speaks of, as -furnishing food to the Indians of the Rio Negro and the Guainia, -we have no opportunity of ascertaining. - -We could not learn that any one of the nations of the Missouri -Indians are accused, even by their enemies, of eating human flesh -from choice, or for the gratification of a horrible luxury: -starvation alone can induce them to eat of it. An Ioway Indian, -however, having killed an Osage, compelled some children of his -own nation to eat of the uncooked flesh of the thigh of his -victim. And a Sioux of the St. Peter's dried some of the flesh of -a Chippeway whom he had killed, and presented it to some white -men, who ate it without discovering the imposition. - -The Indians, like the Hottentots, Negroes, and monkeys, eat the -lice which they detect in each others heads. The squaws search for -these parasites; and we have often seen them thus occupied with -activity, earnestness, and much success. One of them, who was -engaged in combing the head of a white man, was asked why she did -not eat the vermin; she replied, that "white men's lice are not -good." - -Although the bison cow produces a rich milk, yet the Indians make -no use of that of the individuals they kill in hunting. - -During these active employments, which the squaws cheerfully and -even emulously engage in, the occupations of the men are chiefly -those of amusement or recreation. - -Numbers of the young warriors are very officious in offering their -services to the squaws, as protectors during their field labours; -and from the opportunities they enjoy of making love to their -charge in the privacy of high weeds, it is extremely common for -them to form permanent attachments to the wives {197} of their -neighbours, and an elopement to another nation is the consequence. - -The men devote a portion of their time to card-playing. Various -are the games which they practise, of which one is called -_Matrimony_; but others are peculiar to themselves: the following -is one, to which they seem to be particularly devoted. - -The players seat themselves around a bison robe spread on the -ground, and each individual deposits in the middle the articles -he intends to stake, such as vermilion, beads, knives, blankets, -&c., without any attention to the circumstance of equalizing its -value with the deposits made by his companions. - -Four small sticks are then laid upon the robe, and the cards are -shuffled, cut, and two are given to each player, after which the -trump is turned. The hands are then played, and whoever gains two -tricks takes one of the sticks. If two persons make each a trick, -they play together until one loses his trick, when the other takes -a stick. The cards are again dealt, and the process is continued -until all the sticks are taken, If four persons have each a stick, -they continue to play, to the exclusion of the unsuccessful -gamesters. When a player wins two sticks, four cards are dealt to -him, that he may take his choice of them. If a player wins three -sticks, six cards are dealt to him, and should he take the fourth -stick he wins the stake. - -They are so inveterately attached to the heinous vice of gambling, -that they are known to squander in this way every thing they -possess, with the solitary exception of their habitation, which, -however, is regarded more as the property of the woman than of the -man. - -A game, to which the squaws are very much devoted, is called by -the Omawhaws _Kon-se-ke-da_, or plumstone-shooting. It bears some -resemblance to that of dice. Five plumstones are provided, three of -which are marked on one side only with a greater {198} or smaller -number of black dots or lines, and two of them are marked on both -sides. They are, however, sometimes made of bone, of a rounded and -flattened form, somewhat like an orbicular button-mould; the dots -in this case being impressed. A wide dish, and a certain number -of small sticks, by the way of counters, are also provided. Any -number of persons may play at this game, and agreeably to the -number engaged in it, is the quantity of sticks or counters. The -plumstones or bones are placed in the dish, and a throw is made by -simply jolting the vessel against the ground to cause the dice to -rebound, and they are counted as they lie when they fall. The party -plays round for the first throw. Whoever gains all the sticks in -the course of the game, wins the stake. The throws succeed each -other with so much rapidity, that we vainly endeavoured to observe -their laws of computation, which it was the sole business of an -assistant to attend to. - -The squaws sometimes become so highly interested in this game as -to neglect their food and ordinary occupations, sitting for a -whole day, and perhaps night also, solely intent upon it, until -the losers have nothing more to stake. - -Having now a plentiful store of provisions, they content -themselves in their village until the latter part of October, -when, without the formality of a council or other ceremony, they -again depart from the village, and move in separate parties to -various situations on both sides of the Missouri, and its -tributaries, as far down as the Platte. - -Their primary object at this time, is to obtain, on credit from -the traders, various articles indispensably necessary to their -fall, winter, and spring hunts: such as guns, particularly those -of _Mackinaw_, powder, ball, and flints; beaver-traps, brass, tin, -and camp-kettles; knives, hoes, squaw-axes, and tomahawks. - -Having obtained these implements, they go in pursuit {199} of -deer, or apply themselves to trapping for beaver and otter. Elk -was sometime since an object of pursuit, but these animals are -now rather rare in the Omawhaw territories. - -This hunt continues until towards the close of December, and -during the rigours of the season they experience an alternation of -abundance and scarcity of food. The men are very much exposed to -the cold, and, in trapping, to the water. They are also frequently -obliged to carry heavy burdens of game from considerable -distances. - -The assiduous hunter often returns to his temporary residence in -the evening, after unsuccessful exertions continued the live-long -day: he is hungry, cold, and fatigued; with his mockasins, -perhaps, frozen on his feet. His faithful squaw may be unable to -relieve his hunger, but she seats herself by his side near the -little fire, and after having disposed of his hunting apparatus, -she rubs his mockasins and leggings, and pulls them off, that he -may be comfortable; she then gives him water to drink, and his -pipe to smoke. His children assemble about him, and he takes one -of them upon his knee, and proceeds to relate to it the adventures -of the day, that his squaw may be informed of them. "I have been -active all day, but the Master of life has prevented me from -killing any game; but never despond, my children and your mother, -I may be fortunate to-morrow." After some time he retires to rest, -but the wife remains to dry his clothing. He often sings until -midnight, and on the morrow he again sallies forth before the -dawn, and may soon return with a superabundance of food. Such is -the life of the Indian hunter, and such the privations and -pleasures to which his being is habitually incident. - -The squaws, in addition to their occupation of flaying the animals -which their husbands entrap, and of preparing and preserving the -skins, are often necessitated to dig the pomme de terre, _noo_; -and to {200} scratch the groundpea, _himbaringa_, (the same word -is also applied to the bean,) from beneath the surface of the -soil. This vegetable is produced on the roots of the apios -tuberosa, they also frequently find it hoarded up in the quantity -of a peck or more in the brumal retreats of the field mouse, (mus -agrarius, Var?) for its winter store. The seeds of the nelumbium -luteum, analogous to the sacred bean of the Brahmins, also -contribute to their sustenance; these are distinguished by the -name Te-row-a, or bison-beaver, [_te_, bison; and _row-a_, beaver; -in the Oto dialect,] and when roasted are much esteemed. The root -of this plant is also an article of food during the privations of -this portion of the year; it is either roasted or boiled; and is -prepared for keeping by boiling, after which it is cut up in small -pieces and dried: in taste it is somewhat similar to the sweet -potato. - -With the skins of the animals obtained during this hunt, the -natives again repair to the traders to compensate them for the -articles which they had obtained on credit. But owing to the -intrigues of rival traders, the Indians are, with, however, -numerous exceptions, not remarkable for any great degree of -punctuality in making their returns to cancel their debts. Many -obtain credit from one trader, and barter their peltries with -another, to the great injury of the first. - -Like genuine traders, the Omawhaws endeavour, by various -subterfuges, to make the best of their market. An artful fellow -will assure a trader that he has a number of skins, but that he -does not wish to bring them forward, until he assembles a still -greater number; but, in the meantime, he must have a keg of -whiskey, otherwise he will barter his skins with another trader. -Another knave owes his trader, perhaps, twenty skins; but in -consequence of the unlucky occurrence of many circumstances, which -he proceeds to particularize, he can at present pay but half that -number, and the other ten, which he {201} brings with him, he -wishes to trade for other articles of merchandize. The trader -submits to the imposition thus practised, rather than lose their -custom; and is thus deservedly punished for his own deceptive -proceedings with respect to his rivals, and for the habit of -practising on the ignorance of the natives, in which many of them -freely indulge. - -Thus the Missouri traders are repaid for hardly more than half the -value of the merchandize which they credit; but should they obtain -peltries for one-third of the amount, they clear their cost and -charges. - -After having discharged their debts wholly, or in part, the -Indians exchange the remainder of their skins, for strouding for -breech-clouts and petticoats, blankets, wampum, guns, powder and -ball, kettles, vermilion, verdigrise, mockasin-awls, fire-steels, -looking-glasses, knives, chiefs' coats, calico, ornamented brass -finger-rings, arm-bands of silver, wristbands of the same metal, -ear-wheels and bobs, small cylinders for the hair, breast -brooches, and other silver ornaments for the head; black and blue -handkerchiefs, buttons, tin cups, pans and dishes, scarlet cloth, -&c. - -The man is the active agent in this barter, but he avails himself -of the advice of his squaw, and often submits to her dictation. - -Each nation of Indians practises every art they can devise, to -prevent white traders from trafficking with their neighbours, in -order to engross as much as possible of the trade themselves, and -to be the carriers at second hand to the others. For this purpose -they sometimes intrigue deeply, and resort to artful expedients. -"You do not treat your traders as we do," said a cunning Oto to -some Pawnees; "we dictate to them the rate of exchanges; and if -they persist in refusing to comply, we use force to compel them; -we flog them, and by these means we obtain our articles at a much -lower rate than you do:"--thus endeavouring to induce those people -{202} to banish traders from their village by ill treatment. - -In trade, the largest sized beaver skin is called by the French a -_plus_, and constitutes the chief standard of value. Thus as many -of any other description of skins as are considered of equal value -with this large beaver skin, are collectively denominated a -_plus_; and the number of deer, raccoon, otter, &c. that shall -respectively constitute a plus, is settled between the parties, -previously to the commencement of the exchanges. - -Brass kettles are usually exchanged for beaver skins, pound for -pound, which weight of the latter is worth about three dollars at -St. Louis. - -The beaver skins are embodied into neat packs by the traders, each -weighing one hundred pounds, and consisting of seventy or eighty -skins, according to their magnitude. - -The business of this hunt having terminated with the year, the -Omawhaws return to their village, in order to procure a supply of -maize from their places of concealment, after which they continue -their journey in pursuit of bisons. - -On this occasion they divide into two parties, one of which -ascends the Missouri, and the other the Elkhorn rivers. The party -which discovers a herd, gives notice of the fact to the other -party, by an especial messenger, and invites them to join in the -pursuit of it. - -This expedition continues until the month of April, when they -return to their village, as before stated, loaded with provisions. - -It is during this expedition that they procure all the skins, of -which the bison robes of commerce are made; the animals at this -season having their perfect winter dress, the hair and wool of -which are long and dense. - -The process of preparing the hides for the traders falls to the -lot of the squaws. Whilst in the green {203} state, they are -stretched and dried as soon as possible; and, on the return of the -nation to the village, they are gradually dressed during the -intervals of other occupations. The hide is extended upon the -ground; and with an instrument resembling an adze, used in the -manner of our carpenters, the adherent portions of dried flesh are -removed, and the skin rendered much thinner and lighter than -before. The surface is then plastered over with the brains or -liver of the animal, which have been carefully retained for the -purpose, and the warm broth of meat is also poured over it. The -whole is then dried, after which it is again subjected to the -action of the brains and broth, then stretched in a frame, and -while still wet, scraped with pumice-stone, sharp stones, or hoes, -until perfectly dry. Should it not yet be sufficiently soft, it is -subjected to friction, by pulling it backwards and forwards over a -twisted sinew. This generally terminates the operation. On the -commencement of the process, the hides are almost invariably each -divided longitudinally into two parts, for the convenience of -manipulation, and when finished, they are again united by sewing -with sinew. This seam is almost always present in the bison robe; -but one of the largest that we have seen, is used as a covering -for one of our humble beds at this cantonment, and has been -dressed entire, being entirely destitute of a seam. - -The brain of an animal is sufficient to dress its skin, and some -persons make two-thirds of it suffice for that purpose. - -The skins of the elk, deer, and antelopes are dressed in the same -manner; but those that are intended to form the covering of their -travelling lodges, for leggings, and summer mockasins, &c. have -the adze applied to the hairy side in dressing, instead of the -flesh side. - -Great numbers of these robes are annually purchased by the -traders; and Mr. Lisa assured us, that {204} he once transported -fifteen thousand of them to St. Louis in one year. - -The Indian form of government is not sufficiently powerful to -restrain the young warriors from the commission of many excesses -and outrages, which continually involve the nations in protracted -wars; and, however well disposed the chiefs may be, and desirous -to maintain the most amicable deportment towards the white people, -they have not the power to enable them to compel those restless -spirits, greedy of martial distinction, to an observance of that -pacific demeanour which their precepts inculcate. - -To accomplish this object, much depends upon the course pursued by -the agents of the United States. If the character of these is -dignified, energetic, and fearless, they will certainly meet that -respect from the natives which is due to the importance of their -missions. But, on the contrary, if their conduct is deficient in -promptness, energy, and decision; if their measures are paralyzed -by personal fear of the desperadoes, whom they must necessarily -encounter in the execution of their duties, their counsels will -fall unheeded in the assemblies which they address.[207] - -The power of some of the former rulers of the Omawhaws is said to -have been almost absolute. That of the celebrated Black -Bird,[208] Wash-ing-guh-sah-ba, seems to have been actually so, -and was retained undiminished until his death, which occurred in -the year 1800, of the smallpox, which then almost desolated his -nation. Agreeably to his orders, he was interred in a sitting -posture, on his favourite horse, upon the summit of a high bluff -of the bank of the Missouri, "that he might continue to see the -white people ascending the river to trade with his nation." A -mound was raised over his remains, on which food was regularly -placed for many years afterwards; but this rite has been -discontinued, and the staff, that {205} on its summit supported a -white flag, has no longer existence. - -This chief appears to have possessed extraordinary mental -abilities, but he resorted to the most nefarious means to -establish firmly the supremacy of his power. He gained the -reputation of the greatest of medicine men; and his medicine, -which was no other than arsenic itself, that had been furnished -him for the purpose, by the villany of the traders, was secretly -administered to his enemies or rivals. Those persons who offended -him, or counteracted his views, were thus removed agreeably to his -predictions, and all opposition silenced, apparently by the -operation of his potent spells. - -Many were the victims to his unprincipled ambition, and the nation -stood in awe of him, as of the supreme arbiter of their fate. - -With all his enormities he was favourable to the traders; and -although he compelled them to yield to him one half of their -goods, yet he commanded his people to purchase the remainder at -double prices, that the trader might still be a gainer. - -He delighted in the display of his power, and, on one occasion, -during a national hunt, accompanied by a white man, they arrived -on the bank of a fine flowing stream, and although all were -parched with thirst, no one but the white man was permitted to -taste of the water. As the chief thought proper to give no reason -for this severe punishment, it seemed to be the result of caprice. - -One inferior, but distinguished chief, called Little Bow, at -length opposed his power. This man was a warrior of high renown, -and so popular in the nation, that it was remarked of him, that he -enjoyed the confidence and best wishes of the people, whilst his -rival reigned in terror. Such an opponent could not be brooked, -and the Black Bird endeavoured to destroy him. - -{206} On one occasion the Little Bow returned to his lodge, after -the absence of a few days on an excursion. His wife placed before -him his accustomed food; but the wariness of the Indian character -led him to observe some peculiarity in her behaviour, which -assured him that all was not right; he questioned her concerning -the food she had set before him, and the appearance of her -countenance, and her replies, so much increased his suspicions, -that he compelled her to eat the contents of the bowl. She then -confessed that the Black Bird had induced her to mingle with the -food a portion of his terrible medicine, in order to destroy him. -She fell a victim to the machination of the Black Bird, who was -thus disappointed of his object. - -With a band of nearly two hundred followers, the Little Bow -finally seceded from the nation, and established a separate -village on the Missouri, where they remained until the death of -the tyrant. - -On one occasion, the Black Bird seems to have been touched by -remorse, or perhaps by penitence, in his career of enormity. One -of his squaws having been guilty of some trifling offence, he drew -his knife, in a paroxysm of rage, and stabbed her to the heart. -After viewing her dead body a few moments, he seated himself near -it, and covering his face with his robe, he remained immovable for -three days, without taking any nourishment. His people vainly -petitioned that he would "have pity on them," and unveil his face; -he was deaf to all their remonstrances, and the opinion prevailed -that he intended to die through starvation. A little child was at -length brought in by its parent, who gently raised the leg of the -chief, and placed the neck of the child beneath his foot. The -murderer then arose, harangued his people, and betook himself to -his ordinary occupations. - -Towards the latter part of his life, he became very {207} -corpulent, the consequence of indolence and repletion. He was -transported by carriers, on a bison robe, to the various feasts to -which he was daily invited; and should the messenger find him -asleep, they dared not to awaken him by a noise or by shaking, but -by respectfully tickling his nose with a straw. - -The successor of Black Bird was the Big Rabbit, Mush-shinga. He -possessed considerable authority, but he lived only a few years to -enjoy it. - -Ta-so-ne, or the White Cow, the hereditary successor of -Mush-shinga, being governed by an unambitious wife, remained -inactive; whilst the next important man, Ong-pa-ton-ga, or the Big -Elk, more distinguished for his vigorous intellect than for any -martial qualities, attained to the supreme dignity, which he still -retains. - -The power of this amiable and intelligent chief was very -considerable during the early part of his administration; and -although not so absolute as his predecessors, yet it is believed -that he could then inflict the punishment of death upon an -individual with his own hands, with impunity. Five years ago he -informed a stranger, in the presence of his people, that he could -compel any one of them to lie down before him, that he might place -his foot upon his neck; this assertion was assented to by his -hearers. - -But the influence of the grand chief of the Omawhaws has very -much diminished, in consequence of the improper distribution of -medals by the whites; so that, although one of the most -intelligent leaders that the nation has probably ever had, yet he -could hardly do more at this time than inflict a blow for the most -serious offence. Still, however, he maintains a supremacy over six -or seven medalled rivals, in despite of the intrigues of the -traders.[209] He does not now attempt to coerce any of his people, -but substitutes advice and persuasion. - -{208} By his influence and pacific councils, he has rendered the -Omawhaws a peaceful people, who limit their warfare to the -punishing of war-parties that depredate on them or their -possessions; and he exultingly affirms, that his hands are -unstained with the blood of white men. - - -FOOTNOTES: - - [205] The succeeding chapters [the last in this volume, and the - first five in the next], which relate to the manners and customs - of the Indians, chiefly the Omawhaws, are from the notes of Mr. - Say.--JAMES. - - _Comment by Ed._ With the account of the Omaha here given, - compare Dorsey, "Omaha Sociology," in Bureau of Ethnology - _Report_, 1881-82, p. 205. - - - [206] See No. 43 in Language of Signs, Appendix B, volume - xvii.--ED. - - - [207] In corroboration of the remarks given in the text, we - add the following account of an interview which Major O'Fallon - had with Indians of the Mississippi,[B] whose agent has been - hitherto unable to restrain them from carrying on warlike - operations against the Missouri Indians. - - In St. Louis, on the 3d April, 1821, B. O'Fallon, agent for - Indian affairs on Missouri, met a deputation from the Saukee - nation of Indians, on the subject of a most destructive war, - carried on by them against the Otoes, Missouries, and Omawhaws - of his agency, and spoke to them as follows:-- - - "SAUKEES, - - "I am glad you have arrived, before my departure for the - Council Bluff, as it affords me an opportunity to address - you on a subject that has agitated my mind for some time - past. Yes, Saukees, for some time past I have wished to - speak to you on a subject that even now makes the blood run - warm in my veins. - - "In addressing you upon this important subject, I shall not - speak to please your ears, but to strike your hearts. - - "Saukees, you must recollect to have seen me frequently; but - you do not know me, and I know you well. I recollect when I - first visited your land, your balls whistled round my ears. - I was then a boy, and wished to be a man--I am now a man, - with a heart as strong as my strength. - - "A few winters since, I was a chief to the red skins of the - upper Mississippi (Sioux and Foxes); I am now chief to the red - skins of Missouri, some of whose blood you have spilt. Listen - that you may hear me; dispose your minds to understand me; and - remember well what I am now going to tell you, and carry my - words to your nation, that they may not deceive themselves. - - "When I first climbed the rapid Missouri, I found the red - skins as wild as wolves. Without ears they roved through the - plains, only thirsting for each other's blood. They could - only see the storm as it gathered around them; they could - only see the clouds when they obscured the sun, and hear it - thunder when it rained: but when I sat down on their land, - they assembled around me; they listened to my words; I - settled the difference that existed between them, and gave - peace to the land. They then sat down to rest; but they - could not rest long, for the Saukees of the Mississippi, you - whom the Big Knives, like fools, have suffered to live, came - and disturbed them in their sleep. When disturbed, not like - women did they mourn their misfortunes; but like men, they - rose in arms and came to me. I did not consult my feelings; - I consulted the feelings of my nation, and I was for peace. - I told them to sit down, and they did so. Keep your ears - open that you may hear me, and raise your eyes that you may - see me, for I have saved your blood. Yes, Saukees, I - restrained their arms, and they sat down in tears. But you - were not satisfied: you presumed upon their forbearance, and - came again; but they were not asleep, and you did not spill - their blood, but you stole their horses: you stole horses - from the whites, who, like fools, had still suffered you to - live; and you murdered some traders, who were also white. - They again raised their arms; every body who were there at - the time, both whites and red skins, raised their arms, and - looked around them; but they could not see you; for, like - the timid wolf, you had sought the wood, where they could - not follow you, until they had consulted me--I, whose blood - began to boil in my veins. Saukees, my heart was for war; - but my nation was too much for peace, and it was my business - to promote peace; therefore I gave them some tobacco, and - told them once more to sit down, and endeavour to restrain - their feelings: they did so; and I left them smoking their - pipes, and came away to see the great American Chief. After - I left them, you returned again to their land: you found - them asleep; you stole their horses, murdered their women - and children, took their scalps, and carried some of them - prisoners to your villages. - - "How long, how long, Saukees, will you continue to disturb - the repose of other nations? How long will you (like the - serpent creeping through the grass) continue to disturb the - unsuspecting stranger passing through your country? Be - cautious how you disturb the red skins of Missouri; or your - women and children shall mourn the loss of husbands and - fathers--husbands and fathers shall mourn the loss of wives - and children. - - "Yes, Saukees, the Otoes, Missouries, and Omawhaws, are - unwilling to be disturbed any longer. They will no longer - suffer you to make slaves of their children, and dance their - scalps in your villages. - - "Saukees, be cautious; you live in the woods, and the game - of your country is nearly exhausted. You will soon have to - desert those woods in which the red skins of Missouri cannot - find you, and follow the buffalo in the plains, where the - red-skins are not less brave than you, and as numerous as - the buffalo. As long as you have the wood to conceal your - warriors, you may continue to disturb the women and children - of Missouri; but when hunger drives you from those woods, - your bodies will be exposed to balls, to arrows, and to - spears. You will only have time to discharge your guns, - before, on horseback, their spears will spill your blood. I - know that your guns are better than those of Missouri, and - you shoot them well: but when you reach the prairies, they - will avail you nothing against the Otoes, Missouries, - Omawhaws, and Pawnees. As you have seen the whirlwind break - and scatter the trees of your woods, so will your warriors - bend before them on horseback. (Here B. O'Fallon paused, to - give the Saukees an opportunity to reply; when one of their - most distinguished partisans arose and spoke with energy and - animation, recounting many of his feats in war. He mentioned - how often he had struck upon the tribes of Missouri, and - that the Otoes had killed his brother, whom he loved as a - father, and whose spirit could not be appeased as long as an - Oto walked erect upon the earth. He also spoke of the - difficulty of restraining his young warriors, who were - unwilling to die in obscurity. To which B. O'Fallon spoke to - the following effect:) - - "Saukees, one of your partizans, forgetting to whom he was - speaking, has had the presumption to recount his feats in - war, how often he had struck the red skins of Missouri, and - to insinuate that he was unwilling to restrain his young - men. I believe him to be a man of sense; but he has spoken - without reflection, he has spoken like a fool. - - "Saukees, it has always been, and still is, my business to - prevent (if possible) the effusion of human blood--to give - peace and happiness to the land: but when I cannot stop the - running of blood, I will probe the wound, and make it run - more fast. - - "I wish you to understand that the Otoes and Missouries, - though few in number, and much exposed, do not beg for - peace; and I do not ask it for them. They have not as yet - revenged the death of some of their murdered countrymen: the - spirits of these dead are not satisfied. No, Saukees, these - red skins, whom you persecute, have opened their ears to my - words, and are constantly looking towards me. They do not - wish a dishonourable peace. I would sooner see you drink - their blood, than suffer them to make a dishonourable peace. - You have a few of their children as prisoners among you; if - you consult the interest of your nation, you will send them - to their mothers: if you do not deliver them up, the - red-skins of Missouri will go after them; and in hunting - them they may find some of yours. - - "I tell you to be cautious, Saukees, how you disturb the red - skins of Missouri. They call themselves my children: be - cautious how you disturb my children, or I will no longer - look to the pacific disposition of my nation, but consult my - own feelings, and probe the wound which I cannot heal. - - "I am not like many white chiefs whom you have been - accustomed to see. I never act an humble part. I am one of - those white men who never fear a red skin--when I move - amongst them, it is not like a dog with his tail between his - legs, but as becomes a man; and when I speak, I feel the - strength of my nation. - - "On the Missouri I have guns, powder and balls, blankets, - breech-clouts, and leggings, and I am now getting more. I - know where you have your village, and I know the face of the - country over which you stretch your limbs. I know how and - where you are scattered on hunting excursions. I know where - you are most exposed, and what I do not know I can easily - learn from the whites, and other red skins of the Mississippi. - - "I have every thing that a red skin wants; and you all know - he wants only the means of war. You know that all red skins - are fond of war, and that I can make brother fight brother. - - "Saukees; you are a strong nation of red skins; but if you - don't endeavour to restrain the ungovernable disposition of - some of your young men, they will expose your hearts in the - midst of your strength. - - "Yes, Saukees, be cautious how you offend me; lest I - assemble an army of red skins, and from some high peak on - Missouri, show them where to find your village, and your - exposed and scattered lodges. I know that the red skins of - Missouri cannot destroy you directly; but they can give you - unpleasant dreams. Be cautious, Saukees, how you deceive - yourselves, or suffer others to deceive you, or the day will - come when some of your children will have the misfortune to - behold the dogs fighting over the bones of their fathers - upon this land; and as I may have many years to live, I - don't intend to sit still; and if I continue to increase in - strength as I have done, I may live to see the day when I - can make you smile, or shed tears of blood. Saukees, I have - done, I am going to the Council Bluff." - - The Chief of the Saukees, after consulting each warrior - separately, replied, (in substance) as follows:-- - - "American Chief, I have been attentive, and I have heard - your words, and those of the _red head_ (Gov. Clark). Yours - entered one ear, and his the other: they shall not escape - until my nation hears them. I feel the truth of all you have - said, and have never been more for peace than now. All those - braves have expressed their wish for peace with the red - skins of Missouri. This partizan, who without reflection - spoke exultingly of his feats, since he has heard your words - is also for peace; not from any fear of those whom he has - bled, but from an unwillingness to displease you, whom he - conceives to be a man of truth. - - "At our village on Rock river, and encampment at the De - Moyen, we have five Oto prisoners, whom I will promise to - deliver up, when you send for them. - - "My brother, I only regret that my nation was not present on - this occasion, to have heard your words. The wisdom of my - nation, all the reflecting men, are for peace; but we have - many young men difficult to restrain, whose ears, (I - believe,) would open to words coming from your mouth, when - mine, for the want of strength, may fail. - - "My brother, I wish you to pause--I wish you to forbear - until I disclose your words to my people, and you hear from - them. - - "My brother, we receive you as the son of the _red head_; - and inasmuch as we love him, we love you, and do not wish to - offend you."--JAMES. - - - [B] Of the Sauk nation; they call themselves Sauke-waw-ke. - - - [208] For a sketch of Blackbird, see Bradbury's _Travels_, in - our volume v, note 48.--ED. - - - [209] On the custom of giving medals to chiefs in recognition of - their leadership, see Thwaites, _Original Journals of the Lewis - and Clark Expedition_, index.--ED. - - - - - * * * * * - - - - -Transcriber's note: - -Original spelling, hyphenation, and grammar has been mostly -retained, with a few exceptions. - -Page numbers from the 1905 Edition have been omitted herein, -but may be available in other editions of this ebook. - -The Illustration "Facsimile of title-page to Volume I of James's -_Account_" on page 31 has been replaced by text, as there were -no graphics on the page. - -Hyphenation questions, when the hyphen occurred at the end of -a line, were settled in favor of internal consistency whenever -possible. - -Footnotes were moved from the bottoms of pages to the ends of -chapters. Footnotes in the Preface have only one or two digits, -e.g. "[11]"; footnotes in the body of the book have three -e.g. "[011]". - -In tables, "ditto", "do." were replaced with repetitive text for -clarity. Sometimes blank space represents repetition in a table. -The first table in Footnote 187 is an example, wherein the words -"Length" and "inches." occurred on the first line only, in the -original, but are repeated on each line in this ebook. Whenever it -was perfectly clear to the transcriber that repetition was indeed -meant by white space, text was substituted for the blank. - -In the Illustration on page 202 "INDIAN RECORD [...]", The -notation "^{x}" means that "x" should be superscript. - -Footnote 055: two periods inserted, to end the sentence, and at the -end of the footnote. - -Page 248: "permisssion" changed to "permission". - -Page 307: comma inserted after "hoes" in "camp-kettles; knives, -hoes squaw-axes,". - -Page 308: period deleted from "having disposed of his hunting -apparatus,. she rubs his". - - - -***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EARLY WESTERN TRAVELS 1748-1846, -VOLUME XIV*** - - -******* This file should be named 43751.txt or 43751.zip ******* - - -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: -http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/4/3/7/5/43751 - - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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