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diff --git a/43745-h/43745-h.htm b/43745-h/43745-h.htm index ae85be3..0ef8c51 100644 --- a/43745-h/43745-h.htm +++ b/43745-h/43745-h.htm @@ -2,7 +2,7 @@ "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> <html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" xml:lang="en" lang="en"> <head> - <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=iso-8859-1" /> + <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=UTF-8" /> <meta http-equiv="Content-Style-Type" content="text/css" /> <title> The Project Gutenberg eBook of With the World's Great Travellers, @@ -129,49 +129,7 @@ </style> </head> <body> - - -<pre> - -Project Gutenberg's With the World's Great Travellers, Volume IV, by Various - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - - -Title: With the World's Great Travellers, Volume IV - -Author: Various - -Editor: Charles Morris - Oliver H. G. Leigh - -Release Date: September 16, 2013 [EBook #43745] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK WORLD'S GREAT TRAVELLERS *** - - - - -Produced by D Alexander, Ralph Carmichael and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - - - - - - -</pre> - - +<div>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 43745 ***</div> <div id="coverpage" class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> <img src="images/cover.jpg" width="600" height="939" @@ -324,7 +282,7 @@ J. B. LIPPINCOTT COMPANY</p> <td><span class="smcap">John Russell</span></td> <td class="tdr"><a href="#THE_CAPITAL_OF_AUSTRIA">201</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>The Esterházy Palaces</td> +<tr><td>The Esterházy Palaces</td> <td><span class="smcap">John Paget</span></td> <td class="tdr"><a href="#THE_ESZTERHAZY_PALACES">210</a></td></tr> @@ -512,7 +470,7 @@ arches of old Rome, with grander massiveness. It commemorates the triumphs of Napoleon.</p> <p>Notre Dame is not a modern imitation. The great -cathedral stands on the little Ile de la Cité which was the +cathedral stands on the little Ile de la Cité which was the beginning of Paris, inhabited two thousand years ago by the Parisii, a Celtic tribe whose name survives. For eight centuries it has been a Christian church. The west front @@ -567,8 +525,8 @@ Richelieu. After his death it had a king for its master, to-day its grand arcades echo to the chatter of bargain-seeking shoppers, despite the firebrands of the Communists. Adjoining it is the national playhouse, the -Comédie Française, which also had a narrow escape from -the caresses of the reformers. Molière managed this theatre +Comédie Française, which also had a narrow escape from +the caresses of the reformers. Molière managed this theatre for a while, for which, and because he gave the world immortal plays, he was denied Christian burial. His statue, however, makes amends. A greater theatre @@ -581,7 +539,7 @@ bewildering in magnificence.</p> <p>After weariness of city sights it is good to make for the Bois de Boulogne, the main park of Paris. Its twenty-three -hundred acres are connected with the Champs-Élysées +hundred acres are connected with the Champs-Élysées by several avenues, of which the finest is the Avenue du Bois de Boulogne, three hundred and fifteen feet wide and forty-two hundred long. The drive round the lake is the @@ -592,18 +550,18 @@ among the showplaces. At the opposite, the east, side of the city is the spacious Bois de Vincennes, a favorite park with many attractions. The monuments of Paris are familiar to the average reader who stays at home. The -July Column replaces the Bastille, the Vendôme Column, -with its statue of Napoleon as Cæsar, was pulled down by +July Column replaces the Bastille, the Vendôme Column, +with its statue of Napoleon as Cæsar, was pulled down by the Commune and has risen again. Arches, fountains -and statuary abound on all sides. Père la Chaise cemetery +and statuary abound on all sides. Père la Chaise cemetery is the favorite field of oratory, many eulogies of the dead being political harangues of extreme types. Here are buried enough celebrities to immortalize a monumentless -city, Abélard and Héloïse, Chopin, Rossini, Bellini, +city, Abélard and Héloïse, Chopin, Rossini, Bellini, Cherubini, Alfred de Musset, Bernardin de St.-Pierre, -Beaumarchais, Béranger, Talma, Racine, Molière, Lafontaine, +Beaumarchais, Béranger, Talma, Racine, Molière, Lafontaine, Balzac, and many national statesmen. In Montmartre -cemetery lie Heine, Murger, Halévy, Gautier, +cemetery lie Heine, Murger, Halévy, Gautier, Troyon. Lafayette and many of the old nobility who perished in the Revolution, repose in the Picpus burial-ground.</p> @@ -634,7 +592,7 @@ Over a simple glass of sweetened water grave-looking men will vivaciously enact a dialogue which a stranger to the country might suppose was the prelude to a tragedy, when it is only a comparison of views on last night’s ballet. -The outdoor gatherings in front of the innumerable cafés +The outdoor gatherings in front of the innumerable cafés is one of the charms of the gay capital. The habit is Parisian to the core. They sit and quiz the human menagerie as it parades for their delectation; at least this is the complacent @@ -914,7 +872,7 @@ I cannot like; the young St. John, a glorious figure, and<span class="pagenum">< the Madonna del Cardellino, one of the loveliest of his holy families. There is also a great picture by Andrea del Sarto, which impressed me much; the Adoration of the Magi, by -Albert Dürer, the heads full of a simple grandeur peculiar +Albert Dürer, the heads full of a simple grandeur peculiar to that noble artist; and an exquisite little Virgin and Child, by Correggio. In another room, after looking at a bewildering number of pictures, most of which have @@ -1268,7 +1226,7 @@ tract where rocks of every size, fallen from the overhanging mountain, lie strewn about in chaotic confusion, we reached Arco. This sunny village nestles at the foot of an immense detached boulder whose dizzy summit is -crowned by mediæval battlements and towers. Home fit +crowned by mediæval battlements and towers. Home fit only for birds of prey, this castle was long the nest of a family of robbers. Scarcely had we lost in the distance this greatest wonder of the valley when a sharp turn of @@ -1668,7 +1626,7 @@ majestic front of the Temple of Fortune, its pillars of polished granite glistening in the sun as if they had been erected yesterday, while on the left the rank grass was waving from the arches and mighty walls of the palace of -the Cæsars! In front ruin upon ruin lined the way for +the Cæsars! In front ruin upon ruin lined the way for half a mile, where the Coliseum towered grandly through the blue morning mist, at the base of the Esquiline Hill! </p> @@ -1935,7 +1893,7 @@ friends to see it by sunset. Passing by the glorious fountain of Trevi, we made our way to the Forum, and from thence took the road to the Coliseum, lined on both sides with remains of splendid edifices. The grass-grown ruins -of the palace of the Cæsars stretched along on our right; +of the palace of the Cæsars stretched along on our right; on our left we passed in succession the granite front of the Temple of Antoninus and Faustina, the three grand arches of the Temple of Peace, and the ruins of the Temple of @@ -2027,7 +1985,7 @@ loop-holes, like plates of polished sapphire; and last night, as the moon has grown into the zenith, I went to view it with her. Around the Forum all was silent and spectral; a sentinel challenged us at the Arch of Titus, under which -we passed, and along the Cæsars’ wall, which lay in shadow. +we passed, and along the Cæsars’ wall, which lay in shadow. Dead stillness brooded around the Coliseum; the pale, silvery lustre streamed through its arches and over the grassy walls, giving them a look of shadowy grandeur @@ -2052,7 +2010,7 @@ we go to the “European Days and Ways” of Alfred E. Lee, who also deals with Vesuvius as well as with its victim. He tells us the whole history of the excavation, of which we can but say here that up to 1860 not more than one-third of the town was excavated, and that in 1863 -the archæologist Fiorelli was appointed to supervise the work, which +the archæologist Fiorelli was appointed to supervise the work, which has gone on steadily since.]</p></blockquote> <p>The ancient Pompeiians who gazed upon and admired @@ -2143,7 +2101,7 @@ discovered in one spot by the door, covered by a fine ashen dust that had evidently been slowly wafted through the apertures until it had filled the whole space. There were jewels and coins, and candelabra for unavailing light, and -wine, hardened in the amphoræ, for a prolongation of agonized<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</a></span> +wine, hardened in the amphoræ, for a prolongation of agonized<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</a></span> life. The sand, consolidated by damps, had taken the forms of the skeletons as in a cast, and the traveller may yet see the impression of a female neck and bosom, @@ -2151,7 +2109,7 @@ of young and round proportions, the trace of the fated Julia! It seems to the inquirer as if the air had been gradually changed into a sulphurous vapor; the inmates of the vaults had rushed to the door and found it closed -and blocked up by the scoriæ without, and in their attempts +and blocked up by the scoriæ without, and in their attempts to force it had been suffocated with the atmosphere. In the garden was found a skeleton with a key by its bony hand, and near it a bag of coins. This is believed to have @@ -2245,7 +2203,7 @@ as, for instance, Theseus abandoning Ariadne, Ulysses relating his adventures to Penelope, Cupid holding a mirror up to Venus, Apollo and the Muses, Polyphemus receiving Galatea’s letter from Cupid, Leda and -the Swan, Diana surprised in her bath by Actæon, Achilles +the Swan, Diana surprised in her bath by Actæon, Achilles and Patroclus, and representations of Venus, Cupid, Bacchus, Silenus, Mercury, and the fauns in endless variety. A favorite subject was the beautiful youth Narcissus, son<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</a></span> @@ -2305,11 +2263,11 @@ in the vestibule. The House of Sallust, so named from an epigraph on its outside wall, appears from later discoveries to have been the property of A. Cossius Libanus. This house was finished in gay colors and embellished with -mural paintings, one of which—a representation of Actæon +mural paintings, one of which—a representation of Actæon surprising Diana at her bath—is singularly well preserved. Other subjects treated are the rape of Europa (badly defaced), and Helle in the sea extending her arm to Phryxus. -Opposite to the Actæon is a dainty chamber, arbitrarily +Opposite to the Actæon is a dainty chamber, arbitrarily named the venereum, surrounded by polygonal columns painted red. The impluvium was adorned with a bronze group—now in the museum at Palermo—representing Hercules @@ -2402,7 +2360,7 @@ its pride and splendor.</p> <p>An inspection of the ruins of Pompeii deepens upon the mind its impressions of the sublimity and terror of Vesuvius. Physically speaking, the volcano is but a monstrous -heap of ashes, stones, and scoriæ, hollow, or partially so, in +heap of ashes, stones, and scoriæ, hollow, or partially so, in the centre, and streaked with black, solidified lava-currents on the outside. From the crater, whirling volumes of steam and smoke constantly issue, each rotary gush representing @@ -3200,7 +3158,7 @@ smooth waters of the Gulf of Salamis, while beyond rises range upon range of lofty mountain-peaks with strikingly varied outline, terminating on the one hand in the towering cone of Egina, and on the other in the pyramidal, fir-clad -summit of Cithæron.</p> +summit of Cithæron.</p> <p>Upon the plain, at the distance of three or four miles from the sea, are several small rocky hills of picturesque @@ -3248,11 +3206,11 @@ had supposed, Lycabettus and the Acropolis more imposing, Pentelicus farther away, and the plain larger, the gulf narrower, and Egina nearer and more mountainous, than he had fancied. He is astonished at the smallness of the harbor -at Peiræus, having insensibly formed his conception of +at Peiræus, having insensibly formed his conception of its size from the notices of the mighty fleets which sailed from it in the palmy days when Athens was mistress of the seas. He is not prepared to see the southern shore of Salamis -so near to the Peiræus, though it explains the close +so near to the Peiræus, though it explains the close connection between that island and Athens, and throws some light upon the great naval defeat of the Persians. In short, while every object is recognized as it presents @@ -3269,7 +3227,7 @@ not unfrequently. Hastening towards the he will first inspect the remains of the great theatre of Dionysus, so familiar to him as the place where, in the presence of all the people and many strangers, were acted -the plays of his favorite poets, Æschylus and Sophocles, +the plays of his favorite poets, Æschylus and Sophocles, and where they won many prizes. Hurrying over the eastern brow of the hill, he comes suddenly upon the spot, enters at the summit, as many an Athenian did in the @@ -3299,7 +3257,7 @@ the demands of a later style of theatrical representation.</p> <p>After looking in vain for the seat occupied by the priestess of the Unknown God, our traveller passes on and enters with a beating heart the charmed precincts of the Acropolis -itself. The Propylæa, which he has been accustomed +itself. The Propylæa, which he has been accustomed to regard too exclusively as a mere entrance-gate to the glories beyond, impresses him with its size and grandeur, and the little temple of Victory by its side with its elegance. @@ -3361,7 +3319,7 @@ are seen of the stucco and pictures with which the walls were covered when it was fitted up as a Christian church in the Byzantine period. Near the centre of the marble pavement is a rectangular space laid with dark stone from -the Peiræus or from Eleusis. It marks the probable site +the Peiræus or from Eleusis. It marks the probable site of the colossal precious statue of the goddess in gold and ivory,—one of the most celebrated works of Phidias. The smaller apartment beyond, accessible only from the opposite @@ -3410,7 +3368,7 @@ of a subject. The row of fair maidens looking out towards the Parthenon do not seem much oppressed by the burden which rests upon them, while their graceful forms lend a pleasing variety to the scene. Passing out by the northern -wing of the Propylæa, a survey is had of the numerous +wing of the Propylæa, a survey is had of the numerous fragments of sculpture discovered among the ruins upon the hill, and temporarily placed in the ancient Pinacotheca. The eye rests upon sweet infant faces and upon rugged @@ -3604,7 +3562,7 @@ Asia Minor, which lay on the eastern horizon.</p> <p>Rhodes is second to Cyprus (if it be second) in antiquity, and its civilization may be traced to the same sources. Its -position at the mouth of the Ægean Sea, whose waters +position at the mouth of the Ægean Sea, whose waters here mingle with those of the Mediterranean, invited immigration both from Asia and Africa. The Phœnicians, sailing westward, landed on its shores; while from farther @@ -3650,7 +3608,7 @@ treasures; though the conquerors, who</p> <p>brought the sculptures of Rhodes with those of Greece; yet the island itself remains, fair as when it first rose from -the bosom of the Ægean Sea. Never was it fairer than +the bosom of the Ægean Sea. Never was it fairer than this morning, as the sunrise, flashing across the blue waters, lighted up the gray old town, with its walls and towers,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[Pg 92]</a></span> which stand out from a background of hills. The island @@ -3816,7 +3774,7 @@ tropical vegetation, and the seas flash at night with phosphorescent splendor. But with all that is attractive in those groups of islands, I can hardly believe anything to be equal to this Greek Archipelago. It seems to me that -no waters can be so beautiful as those of the Ægean Sea, +no waters can be so beautiful as those of the Ægean Sea, although there are waters of wonderful clearness in our Western Hemisphere, notably those round the Bahamas and the Bermudas.</p> @@ -4261,7 +4219,7 @@ large lustre presented by the English ambassador. Above the raised platform hangs another lustre of a smaller size, but more elegant. Immediately over the sofas constituting the divan are mirrors engraved with Turkish inscriptions; -poetry and passages from the Korân. The +poetry and passages from the Korân. The sofas are of white satin beautifully embroidered by the women of the seraglio.</p> @@ -4538,7 +4496,7 @@ three thousand one hundred and thirteen feet above Zermatt itself, seemed an absurdity in such weather; for there, at an elevation of over eight thousand feet, we should be enveloped in the denser vapors above, and half frozen into -the bargain. We sought the <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">salle-à-manger</i>, and consoled +the bargain. We sought the <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">salle-à -manger</i>, and consoled ourselves with cutlets and Beaujolais. There we held serious counsel together, and lit our pipes and sallied forth to inspect the prospect outside. We went first to the little @@ -4591,7 +4549,7 @@ though bedrooms were out of the question.</p> <p>The air was intensely keen. The water, when we essayed to wash our hands, was of an icy temperature, and we put on whatever extra clothing we could abstract from -our knapsacks. An excellent table-d’hôte, however, soon +our knapsacks. An excellent table-d’hôte, however, soon set us right; and a brisk walk after dark up and down the plateau in front of the hotel, in company with the newly-arrived English clergyman, who had undertaken the duties @@ -4617,7 +4575,7 @@ tried to follow, you may imagine what the din was like.”</p> <p>We had been informed that there were twenty-nine people in the house, including ourselves, unprovided with beds, and that we were to be accommodated <em>on the table in -the salle-à-manger</em>. The prospect was not agreeable, and +the salle-à -manger</em>. The prospect was not agreeable, and we lingered in the warm salon until half-past ten, by which time the ladies had all retired. Presently a small army of maid-servants marched into the room with folding iron @@ -4647,7 +4605,7 @@ Rousing my companion, and dressing as rapidly as possible, I made for the door of the hotel, and stepped out upon the terrace. I had looked upon many scenes of grandeur and beauty in many parts of Switzerland, from the Rigi, -from Pilatus, from Mürren, from the Lauberhorn, but +from Pilatus, from Mürren, from the Lauberhorn, but never in all my experience had I witnessed a scene like that which lay before me. There was not a speck in all the blue vault of heaven. The frosty air was so clear that @@ -4805,7 +4763,7 @@ a week of storms. Not one of the good men, however, could be induced to come, and I returned to Breuil on the 17th, hoping to combine the skill of Carrel with the willingness of Meynet on a new attempt by the same route as -before; for the Hörnli ridge, which I had examined in the +before; for the Hörnli ridge, which I had examined in the mean time, seemed to be entirely impracticable. Both men were inclined to go, but their ordinary occupations prevented them from starting at once.</p> @@ -4906,7 +4864,7 @@ July. <p>This Great Tower is one of the most striking features of the ridge. It stands out like a turret at the angle of a castle. Behind it a battlemented wall leads upward to the -citadel. Seen from the Théodule pass, it looks only an insignificant +citadel. Seen from the Théodule pass, it looks only an insignificant pinnacle, but as one approaches it (on the ridge), so it seems to rise, and when one is at its base it completely conceals the upper parts of the mountain. I found here a @@ -4976,7 +4934,7 @@ times as rapidly as upon the rocks.</p> <p>The Tower was now almost out of sight, and I looked over the central Pennine Alps to the Grand Combin and to -the chain of Mont Blanc. My neighbor, the Dent d’Hérens,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">[Pg 127]</a></span> +the chain of Mont Blanc. My neighbor, the Dent d’Hérens,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">[Pg 127]</a></span> still rose above me, although but slightly, and the height which had been attained could be measured by its help. So far, I had no doubts about my capacity to descend that @@ -4985,7 +4943,7 @@ ahead, I saw that the cliffs steepened, and I turned back (without pushing on to them and getting into inextricable difficulties), exulting in the thought that they would be passed when we returned together, and that I had without -assistance got nearly to the height of the Dent d’Hérens, +assistance got nearly to the height of the Dent d’Hérens, and considerably higher than any one had been before. My exultation was a little premature.</p> @@ -4996,9 +4954,9 @@ myself through the Chimney, however, by making a fixture of the rope, which I then cut off and left behind, as there was enough and to spare. My axe had proved a great nuisance in coming down, and I left it in the tent. -It was not attached to the bâton, but was a separate affair,—an +It was not attached to the bâton, but was a separate affair,—an old navy boarding-axe. While cutting up the different -snow-beds on the ascent, the bâton trailed behind fastened +snow-beds on the ascent, the bâton trailed behind fastened to the rope; and when climbing the axe was carried behind, run through the rope tied round my waist, and was sufficiently out of the way, but in descending, when coming @@ -5011,7 +4969,7 @@ dearly for the imprudence.</p> <p>The Col du Lion was passed, and fifty yards more would have placed me on the “Great Staircase,” down which one can run. But on arriving at an angle of the cliffs of the -Tête du Lion, while skirting the upper edge of the snow +Tête du Lion, while skirting the upper edge of the snow which abuts against them, I found that the heat of the two<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">[Pg 128]</a></span> past days had nearly obliterated the steps which had been cut when coming up. The rocks happened to be impracticable @@ -5041,7 +4999,7 @@ have a fair idea of the place.</p> <p>The knapsack brought my head down first, and I pitched into some rocks about a dozen feet below: they caught something, and tumbled me off the edge, head over heels, -into the gully. The bâton was dashed from my hands, and +into the gully. The bâton was dashed from my hands, and I whirled downward in a series of bounds, each longer than the last,—now over ice, now into rocks,—striking my head four or five times, each time with increased force. @@ -5052,7 +5010,7 @@ my left side. They caught my clothes for a moment, and<span class="pagenum"><a n I fell back on to the snow with motion arrested: my head fortunately came the right side up, and a few frantic catches brought me to a halt in the neck of the gully and -on the verge of the precipice. Bâton, hat, and veil +on the verge of the precipice. Bâton, hat, and veil skimmed by and disappeared, and the crash of the rocks which I had started, as they fell on to the glacier, told how narrow had been the escape from utter destruction. @@ -5240,7 +5198,7 @@ running along the interior dyke.</p> the darkest red to light rose-color, chiefly two windows<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">[Pg 134]</a></span> wide and two stories high, have the front wall rising above and concealing the roof, and in the shape of a blunt triangle -surmounted by a parapet. Some of these pointed façades +surmounted by a parapet. Some of these pointed façades rise into two curves, like a long neck without a head; some are cut into steps like the houses that children build with blocks; some present the aspect of a conical pavilion, some @@ -5313,12 +5271,12 @@ towards one in the middle, like conspirators in conclave.</p> <p>Observe them attentively one by one, from top to bottom, and they are interesting as pictures.</p> -<p>In some, upon the summit of the façade, there projects +<p>In some, upon the summit of the façade, there projects from the middle of the parapet a beam with cord and pulley to pull up baskets and buckets. In others, jutting from a round window, is the carved head of a deer, a sheep, or a goat. Under the head, a line of whitewashed stone or -wood cuts the whole façade in half. Under this line there +wood cuts the whole façade in half. Under this line there are two broad windows with projecting awnings of striped linen. Under these again, over the upper panes, a little green curtain. Below this green curtain two white ones,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">[Pg 136]</a></span> @@ -5553,11 +5511,11 @@ more absurd cocky little wheat-ricks, with hardly corn enough in them to make a loaf of bread, more white and purple lupins on the embankments, more red-tiled roofs, half thatch, half tile, which M—— pronounced “most -æsthetic,” more sun, yes, that was perhaps the best of all. +æsthetic,” more sun, yes, that was perhaps the best of all. Then a great green fort, and we were at Antwerp.</p> <p>We hardly gave ourselves time to swallow a hasty -<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">déjeûner</i>, and then set forth with the charming feeling that +<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">déjeûner</i>, and then set forth with the charming feeling that we had nothing to do but amuse ourselves. We had not an idea of where we were going, or what we meant to see. All was new, therefore all to us was worth seeing. Only a @@ -5580,7 +5538,7 @@ ought to see it? finally, of course, should they show it to us? We were in too mighty a presence to heed them. Above us, almost painfully high, rose the great steeple, pointing up to the clear blue sky. We stood at a corner -of the old Marché and gazed and gazed, hardly able at +of the old Marché and gazed and gazed, hardly able at first to take in the idea of its real height, foreshortened as it is when one stands so near. It grew upon us, revealed itself to us, as we looked and wondered, and ever @@ -5613,7 +5571,7 @@ of the Virgin over the high altar close by, still less of the gorgeous but revolting Marie de Medici series in the Louvre. To quote Fromentin once more, “<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">Tout y est contenu, concis, laconique comme dans une page du texte -sacré.</i>” Let those who judge him merely by pictures such +sacré.</i>” Let those who judge him merely by pictures such as the last go to Antwerp, and, casting aside all preconceived ideas, say then whether Peter Paul Rubens shall not be pardoned all his carelessness, his coarseness,—yes, @@ -5693,7 +5651,7 @@ fallen mast. Then others began to arrive, and as the flames rose higher some slight interest arose with them. The gray woman turned and ran for the pompiers. The interest grew and spread among the gathering crowd. -Soldiers just landing from the Tête de Flandre caught +Soldiers just landing from the Tête de Flandre caught sight of the crackling flames and rushed towards them. Stevedores left the lading of their steamer, and, leaping across masts and spars, with sacks over their heads and @@ -5787,7 +5745,7 @@ Raphael, Holbein, Correggio, Titian, Carlo Dolce, Paul Veronese, Rubens, Rembrandt, Vandyke, Guido, Ruysdael, Wouvermans, Claude, Poussin, and I do not know who else; but I would give them all, and more besides, for the portraits -of Charlemagne and Sigismund by Dürer, and the +of Charlemagne and Sigismund by Dürer, and the historical painting of the peace of Westphalia, with its forty-seven original portraits by Sandrart. I do really think that I have seen a million of paintings, and have come to the @@ -5830,7 +5788,7 @@ expression it gives to their faces? Well, this is just the expression of the greater part of these so celebrated portraits and paintings. It is appalling to think of,—I mean my want of taste,—but I do like to see pictures look natural. -“How will madame have potatoes, sauté or grillé, or +“How will madame have potatoes, sauté or grillé, or au naturel?” The word <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">naturel</i> sounds so charmingly after all I have seen, that I reply joyously, “Au naturel;” and he brought me boiled potatoes,—just what I liked. I forgot @@ -5920,7 +5878,7 @@ thousand thalers! A costly plaything. All the Saxon crown jewels, collected from the time of the Elector Maurice, 1541, were one blaze of light and beauty. Boxes are always ready for packing them, particularly in time of -war, when they are taken to the fortress of Königstein.</p> +war, when they are taken to the fortress of Königstein.</p> <p>We have been over the bridge to the Japanese palace to see the collections of porcelain from the earliest times until<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">[Pg 152]</a></span> @@ -5929,7 +5887,7 @@ Europe from China and Japan, and Saxony was the first European country in which its manufacture was begun. Von Tzschirnhausen was making experiments in his three glass huts when, in 1701, he was joined by John Frederic -Böttger, an alchemist, who said he had succeeded in finding +Böttger, an alchemist, who said he had succeeded in finding the philosopher’s stone, and who, in the presence of witnesses, melted eighteen two groschen pieces, sprinkled into the liquid mass a reddish powder, and changed them @@ -5943,7 +5901,7 @@ am afraid we shall not have time to go there.</p> <p>But to return to the Japanese palace. There were costly selections of Chinese, Japanese, East Indian, Dresden, and -Sèvres porcelain. It is really astonishing to see what improvement +Sèvres porcelain. It is really astonishing to see what improvement was made in Dresden china in twenty years, and then from those twenty years until the present time. There are twenty rooms in the basement of this building @@ -5952,7 +5910,7 @@ had put them in the story above, where ever so much old statuary is placed, for then they could be seen to so much better advantage, and the statuary be kept in the shade, where, in my opinion, a good lot of it should always be. -Kändler’s model of a huge monument to Augustus (III. +Kändler’s model of a huge monument to Augustus (III. of Poland and II. of Saxony) is entirely of porcelain, and cost twelve thousand thalers. A camellia, thirty-eight inches high, modelled by Schiefer, in Meissen, in 1836, is @@ -5966,7 +5924,7 @@ china, and spoke to the guide about it. He said the veil was china too. I examined it closely; the work on the border was perfect, and you could see the head and neck through the veil as plainly as if it had been real lace. The -Sèvres china given by the first Napoleon was the handsomest +Sèvres china given by the first Napoleon was the handsomest of any we saw. Some majolica vases were very fine, and cost about ten thousand dollars each. There were Chinese gods, made in China, of the most beautiful porcelain, @@ -6061,7 +6019,7 @@ There are two triumphant fly-away statues on the grand bridge over the Elbe which exhilarate me every time I see them.</p> -<p>Brühl’s Terrace is a very delightful promenade, and an +<p>Brühl’s Terrace is a very delightful promenade, and an ornament to the city. I was asked if I had seen the statuary at the “flurs” (flight of stairs) of this terrace. One group represents Evening, the other Night; they are very @@ -6369,13 +6327,13 @@ left, as it was already eleven o’clock, glad to breathe the pure cold air.</p> <p>In the University I heard Gervinus, who was formerly -professor in Göttingen, but was obliged to leave on account +professor in Göttingen, but was obliged to leave on account of his liberal principles. He is much liked by the students and his lectures are very well attended. They had this winter a torchlight procession in honor of him. He is a stout, round-faced man, speaks very fast, and makes them laugh continually with his witty remarks. In the room I -saw a son of Rückert, the poet, with a face strikingly like +saw a son of Rückert, the poet, with a face strikingly like his father’s. The next evening I went to hear Schlosser, the great historian. Among his pupils are the two princes of Baden, who are now at the University. He came hurriedly @@ -6479,7 +6437,7 @@ or incapable of pointing a moral or adorning a tale.</p> splendors! From the happy moment I passed the Royal National Gallery, with its great front covered with the commanding pictures by Cornelius, with background of gold, -and crossed the handsome bridge, <i lang="de" xml:lang="de">Schloss Brücke</i>, ornamented +and crossed the handsome bridge, <i lang="de" xml:lang="de">Schloss Brücke</i>, ornamented with colossal marble statues, full of action and life, that spans the lovely embanked Spree, until now, with a charming park and the Cathedral at my back, the University @@ -6670,7 +6628,7 @@ of horses imagine that you see them.” Just suppose we are crossing together, and because of the many vehicles and people on horseback, I will take you by the hand, so. We have been admiring the trees and flowers in front of -Prince Blücher’s palace, one of a series of palaces on each +Prince Blücher’s palace, one of a series of palaces on each side of the street near the Brandenburg Gate; they stand back from the pavements, and have extensive flower-gardens in front, the only separation between these and the @@ -6765,7 +6723,7 @@ disintegration of the white rays of light resulted in a rainbow, curved partially around the trees. I look at it, racking my memory at the same time for the word I need; he sees I observe it and am pleased; he nods, and says, -“<i lang="de" xml:lang="de">Schön</i>” (beautiful); I reply, “Very.” In a few moments, +“<i lang="de" xml:lang="de">Schön</i>” (beautiful); I reply, “Very.” In a few moments, dragging the hose towards me, throwing the water over a weeping birch, and making another rainbow, he points towards it. “Our Herr Professor Helmholtz,” pointing towards @@ -6793,7 +6751,7 @@ no sounds are heard but those of horses’ feet; no screaming of papers or wares of any sort is permitted, and no chimes! Then, again, people in the most ordinary circumstances have fine lace curtains and beautifully woven -fabrics hanging around in graceful festoons, portières, +fabrics hanging around in graceful festoons, portières, statuary, pictures, flowers, birds, and books; often the most beautiful things in the way of prints are pinned<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175">[Pg 175]</a></span> frameless on the walls; there are beautiful marquetry floors, @@ -7390,7 +7348,7 @@ gradually assuming shape till it stood before us in the form of a magnificent triumphal arch, bearing upon its front the illuminated motto,—</p> -<p class="motto center">Glück-Auf!</p> +<p class="motto center">Glück-Auf!</p> <p>signifying, “Good luck to you!” or, literally, “Luck upon it!” the famous greeting of the miners. Under this triumphal @@ -7398,8 +7356,8 @@ arch we passed slowly into an immense chamber, of such vast proportions and rugged outline that the eye failed to penetrate its profound depths. Then from various corridors, high among the conglomerate crags, descended -mysterious voices, crying, one after another, “Glück-auf! -Glück-auf! Glück-auf!” till the reverberation united them +mysterious voices, crying, one after another, “Glück-auf! +Glück-auf! Glück-auf!” till the reverberation united them all in a grand chorus, so deep, so rich, varied, and powerful that mortal ears could encompass no more. Was it real? Could these be human voices and earthly sounds, @@ -7415,8 +7373,8 @@ in the water—the reflected images of rocks, corridors and precipices—the sudden contrasts of light and gloom—the scintillations of the crystal salt points—formed a scene of miraculous and indescribable grandeur. Unable to control -my enthusiasm, I shouted at the top of my voice, “Glück-auf! -Glück-auf!” The cry was caught up by the guides +my enthusiasm, I shouted at the top of my voice, “Glück-auf! +Glück-auf!” The cry was caught up by the guides and torch-bearers; it arose and was echoed from rock to rock by the chorus singers, till, like the live thunder, it leaped</p> @@ -7504,9 +7462,9 @@ general ruin.</p> <blockquote> <p>[The modern enlightenment of Europe is a class enlightenment only. -The mass of many populations still dwell in the shadow of mediæval +The mass of many populations still dwell in the shadow of mediæval superstition. As one example of this we append the following description -of a curious religious mania, a relic from the centuries of mediævalism. +of a curious religious mania, a relic from the centuries of mediævalism. The party of travellers with whom we have to deal had seen all there was to see in Trier (Treves), and the suggestion was made to go see the jumping procession at Echternach, which would come @@ -7550,7 +7508,7 @@ of indifferent color, and which, on trial, at once extinguished our friend as far as his coat collar. In fear and dread, and with incessant reference to our watches, we drove to our fourth and last hope. Here a hat, carefully -wrapped in a number of the <cite lang="de" xml:lang="de">Cölnische Zeitung</cite>, was handed +wrapped in a number of the <cite lang="de" xml:lang="de">Cölnische Zeitung</cite>, was handed to us, and with a little manœuvring we settled that it might do. Having “requisitioned” two colored bandanas from a friend who was getting himself up for the expedition @@ -7603,7 +7561,7 @@ phase in Prussia. We were anxiously toiling up a steep incline in single file, not even daring to rest our horses, for fear they should not be able to hold up the carriages, when a sudden turn showed us a small public-house at the top of -the hill, in front of which sat a young <i lang="de" xml:lang="de">Fähnrich</i> (ensign). +the hill, in front of which sat a young <i lang="de" xml:lang="de">Fähnrich</i> (ensign). Two large carts laden with forage stood directly across the road, occupying its entire width, and two troopers, looking remarkably the worse for dirt, with pipes in their mouths, @@ -7881,7 +7839,7 @@ which are all entered by a common stair. There is much more regularity, and there are many more cornices and pillars, in Berlin; in Dresden there is a more frequent intermixture of showy edifices; there is more lightness and -airiness of effect in the best parts of Munich; and in Nürnberg +airiness of effect in the best parts of Munich; and in Nürnberg and Augsburg there is a greater profusion of the outward ornaments of the olden time; but in none of these towns is there so much of that sober and solid stateliness, @@ -7905,7 +7863,7 @@ on the domain, and, accordingly, they are perpetually trespassing.</p> <p>The streets, even those in which there is the greatest -bustle, the Kärnthnerstrasse, for example, are generally +bustle, the Kärnthnerstrasse, for example, are generally narrow; carriages, hackney-coaches, and loaded wagons, observing no order, cross each other in all directions; and, while they hurry past each other, or fill the street by @@ -7967,7 +7925,7 @@ people requires them less for purposes of recreation; for, when amusement is their object, they hasten beyond the walls to the coffee-houses of the glacis, or the shades of the Prater, the wine-houses and monks of Kloster-Neuburg, or -the gardens of Schönbrunn. The best of these squares +the gardens of Schönbrunn. The best of these squares happen to be in parts of the city where the fashionable world does not often intrude; they are not planted, but they are excellently paved; they are not gaudy with @@ -8102,7 +8060,7 @@ sides in opposite directions; the two on each side are filled with horsemen, galloping along to try the capacity of their steeds, or provoking them into impatient curvetings, to try the effect of their own forms and dexterity on -the beauties who adorn the open calèches.</p> +the beauties who adorn the open calèches.</p> <p>The two exterior alleys are consecrated to pedestrians; but those of the Viennese who must walk, because not<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_210" id="Page_210">[Pg 210]</a></span> @@ -8134,14 +8092,14 @@ banks of the magnificent river itself.</p> <hr class="chap" /> <h2><a name="THE_ESZTERHAZY_PALACES" id="THE_ESZTERHAZY_PALACES"> - THE ESZTERHÁZY PALACES.</a></h2> + THE ESZTERHÃZY PALACES.</a></h2> <h3>JOHN PAGET.</h3> <blockquote> <p>[Paget’s “Hungary and Transylvania” is the source of our present selection, we having chosen, from his many pictures of Hungarian life -and people, a description of the famous Eszterházys, a family renowned +and people, a description of the famous Eszterházys, a family renowned particularly for its jewels, which have been gathering for centuries in the castle of Forchtenstein.]</p> </blockquote> @@ -8235,12 +8193,12 @@ an intoxicating effect. through a well-cultivated country, chiefly inhabited by Germans, who have crept in upon this side of Hungary from Presburg nearly to the borders of Croatia. The -Neusiedler Lake, or the Fertö Tava Hungarian, which we +Neusiedler Lake, or the Fertö Tava Hungarian, which we soon came in sight of, is about twenty-four miles long by twelve broad, varying in depth from nine to thirteen feet. In parts, particularly at the north end, its shores are hilly and pretty, but on the eastern side they are flat, and terminate -in a very extensive marsh, called the Hanság.</p> +in a very extensive marsh, called the Hanság.</p> <p>It is supposed to be this lake which the Emperor Galerius drained into the Danube, and which has been allowed @@ -8252,7 +8210,7 @@ snipe-shooting....</p> <p>At Eisenstadt, some short distance from the lake, is a palace of the first of the Hungarian magnates, Prince -Eszterházy. This palace, though not remarkable for its +Eszterházy. This palace, though not remarkable for its beauty (it is in a heavy, though florid, Italian style), is well fitted up for a princely residence. We walked through suites of apartments innumerable; but by far the most @@ -8261,7 +8219,7 @@ hall of great size, and richly ornamented in white and gold. This room was last used when the present prince was installed lord-lieutenant of the county of Oedenburg, an office hereditary in his family; and great is still -the fame of the almost regal pomp with which he fêted +the fame of the almost regal pomp with which he fêted the crowds of nobles who flocked around him upon that occasion.</p> @@ -8277,11 +8235,11 @@ or its grounds receive a visitor.</p> <p>Great as is the splendor of some of our English peers, I almost fear the suspicion of using a traveller’s license -when I tell of Eszterházy’s magnificence. Within a few +when I tell of Eszterházy’s magnificence. Within a few miles of this same spot he has three other palaces of equal size.</p> -<p>Just at the southern extremity of the lake stands Eszterház, +<p>Just at the southern extremity of the lake stands Eszterház, a huge building in the most florid Italian style, built only in 1700, and already uninhabited for sixty years. Its marble halls, brilliant with gold and painting, are still fresh @@ -8298,7 +8256,7 @@ mirrors, and serves only as a dwelling for the dormant bats, which hang in festoons from its gilded cornices. England is famous for her noble castles and her rich mansions, yet we can have little idea of a splendor such as -Eszterház must formerly have presented. Crowded as it +Eszterház must formerly have presented. Crowded as it was by the most beautiful women of four countries, its three hundred and sixty strangers’ rooms filled with guests, its concerts directed by a Haydn, its opera supplied @@ -8308,10 +8266,10 @@ antechambers, and its gates guarded by the grenadiers of its princely master, its magnificence must have exceeded<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_215" id="Page_215">[Pg 215]</a></span> that of half of the royal courts of Europe. I know of nothing but Versailles which gives one so high a notion of -the costly splendor of a past age as Eszterház.</p> +the costly splendor of a past age as Eszterház.</p> <p>Haydn was for more than thirty years <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">maestro di capello</i> -to Prince Eszterházy; and, during that period, lived chiefly +to Prince Eszterházy; and, during that period, lived chiefly with the family. His portrait is still preserved, and it is almost the only picture of much interest the palace contains. Haydn was a very poor and obscure person when @@ -8322,7 +8280,7 @@ anecdote of his introduction to the prince is recounted by Carpani:</p> <p>“The Maestro Friedberg, a friend and admirer of Haydn, -lived with Prince Eszterházy. Regretting that Haydn +lived with Prince Eszterházy. Regretting that Haydn should be overlooked, he persuaded him to compose a symphony worthy of being performed on the birthday of his highness. Haydn consented; the day arrived; the @@ -8360,7 +8318,7 @@ was granted to his entreaties. The surname of the Blackymoor, however, which the prince had bestowed upon him, stuck to him for years after.”</p> -<p>The only part of Eszterház at present occupied is the +<p>The only part of Eszterház at present occupied is the stables, which had just received an importation of twelve beautiful thoroughbred horses from England, with some very promising young stock. An old English groom had @@ -8371,8 +8329,8 @@ the estates of the nobles are mismanaged and the revenues plundered—of the many little wants and luxuries requisite for English race-horses.</p> -<p>The estates of Prince Eszterházy are said to equal the -kingdom of Würtemberg in size; it is certain they contain +<p>The estates of Prince Eszterházy are said to equal the +kingdom of Würtemberg in size; it is certain they contain one hundred and thirty villages, forty towns, and thirty-four castles! The annual revenue from such vast possessions is said, however, not to amount to one hundred and @@ -8383,7 +8341,7 @@ few of whom are indebted to a less amount than half their incomes.</p> <p>I remember some years since an anecdote going the -rounds of the papers to the effect that Prince Eszterházy +rounds of the papers to the effect that Prince Eszterházy had astonished one of our great agriculturists who had shown him his flock of two thousand sheep, and asked him with some little pride if he could show as many, by telling @@ -8395,13 +8353,13 @@ thousand, to every hundred of which one shepherd is allowed, thus making the number of shepherds two thousand five hundred! But, as a <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">spirituelle</i> of the neighborhood observed when we were discussing these matters, -“Les Eszterházys font tout en grand: le feu prince a doté -deux cents maîtresses, et pensionné cent enfans illégitimes!”</p> +“Les Eszterházys font tout en grand: le feu prince a doté +deux cents maîtresses, et pensionné cent enfans illégitimes!”</p> -<p>It is not right to leave Eszterház without mention of -Hánystock, or the wild man of the Hanság. The Hanság +<p>It is not right to leave Eszterház without mention of +Hánystock, or the wild man of the Hanság. The Hanság is a bog about twenty miles long, on the borders of -which Eszterház is built. About eighty years since, in +which Eszterház is built. About eighty years since, in some part of this bog, an extraordinary creature is said to have been found, possessing something of the human form, but with scarcely any other quality that could entitle it to @@ -8413,22 +8371,22 @@ no signs of any passion or feeling, except fear and anger, and was in every respect in the lowest state of brutality. The most curious part of its history is that no one ever heard of it till accidentally found by a peasant in the bog, -when it was brought to Eszterház, where, after remaining<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_218" id="Page_218">[Pg 218]</a></span> +when it was brought to Eszterház, where, after remaining<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_218" id="Page_218">[Pg 218]</a></span> fourteen months, it escaped, and was never heard of again. I believe there is some reason to suspect an imposition, for an Italian adventurer appeared and disappeared about the -same time with Hánystock, and though unable to cite name +same time with Hánystock, and though unable to cite name or place, I feel pretty certain that a similar occurrence took place in another part of Europe soon after.</p> <p>A few miles from Eisenstadt, and just on the confines of Austria, is a yet more interesting monument of what we -should call feudal greatness, belonging to the Eszterházy +should call feudal greatness, belonging to the Eszterházy family. The castle of Forchtenstein, built by a Count -Eszterházy, is still in a perfect state of preservation. It is +Eszterházy, is still in a perfect state of preservation. It is placed on a bold rock, and commands a view of the whole country to the northeast and south. It is now used as a -prison for Prince Eszterházy’s peasantry,—for he is one of +prison for Prince Eszterházy’s peasantry,—for he is one of the few who retain the right of life and death, the <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">jus gladii</i>, on his own estates,—and is consequently guarded by a small detachment of very venerable-looking grenadiers.</p> @@ -8445,7 +8403,7 @@ which is one hundred and seventy yards deep, and said to have been worked in the solid rock by Turkish prisoners, is the collection of arms. Besides arms sufficient for a regiment of foot and another of horse, which ere this an -Eszterházy has equipped and maintained at his own cost, +Eszterházy has equipped and maintained at his own cost, there is the gala equipment of a troop of cavalry which attended one of the princesses on her wedding-day, thirty pieces of artillery, suits of plain black armor for several @@ -8455,7 +8413,7 @@ every description.</p> <p>One suit of armor is interesting from the tale of rude courtesy attached to it. It formerly belonged to a Count -Eszterházy who fell in a battle against the old enemies of +Eszterházy who fell in a battle against the old enemies of Hungary, the Turks. A ball from the Pasha’s own pistol had already pierced the Count’s cuirass, but, anxious to make more certain of his death, the Moslem leaped from @@ -8464,19 +8422,19 @@ broke open his visor, when he discovered in the fallen foe an old friend by whom he had been most kindly treated when a prisoner in Hungary. Faithful to his friendship, the Turk made the only reparation in his power, for, after -treating the body of Eszterházy with every possible mark +treating the body of Eszterházy with every possible mark of respect, he collected the armor in which he had died, and sent it, with the arms which had caused his death, as a present to his family.</p> <p>A great number of banners, as well those taken from -the enemy as those under which the followers of Eszterházy +the enemy as those under which the followers of Eszterházy fought, are hung round the walls. It is characteristic of the times that most of the Hungarian flags bear a painting of the cross, with a figure of Christ as large as life.</p> <p>In one room we noticed the genealogical tree of all the -Eszterházys, in which it is made out, as clearly as possible, +Eszterházys, in which it is made out, as clearly as possible, that, beginning with Adam, who reclines in a very graceful attitude at the bottom of the tree, they pass through every great name, Jewish as well as heathen, from Moses @@ -8506,7 +8464,7 @@ to have two persons present who live at a distance, each of whom has a key, without which the other is of no use, and therefore had not provided against the difficulty.</p> -<p>The splendor of the Eszterházy jewels is no secret in +<p>The splendor of the Eszterházy jewels is no secret in England, and it is in this good castle those heaps of treasure, which so tempted her majesty’s fair lieges at her coronation, are commonly preserved. It is said that each @@ -8517,7 +8475,7 @@ Hungary, a small party presented themselves before Forchtenstein and demanded its surrender. The grenadiers, however, shut the gates, cut the bridge, and set them at defiance; and, as the enemy had no means of enforcing -obedience, Prince Eszterházy saved his jewels. Besides +obedience, Prince Eszterházy saved his jewels. Besides the jewels there is an extensive collection of ancient Hungarian costumes; among others, if I recollect rightly, one worn by King Mathias Corvinus.</p> @@ -8536,12 +8494,12 @@ worn by King Mathias Corvinus.</p> <p>[It is a journey in Sweden which our traveller proposes to describe in the work from which we quote, but we find the story of her journey to Sweden more interesting, and give her graphic account of the German -cities of Hamburg and Lübeck, and the picturesque water route along +cities of Hamburg and Lübeck, and the picturesque water route along the Swedish coast, ending with an account of what she saw of interest in Sweden’s capital city.]</p> </blockquote> -<p>Our route to Sweden was by Hamburg and Lübeck, for +<p>Our route to Sweden was by Hamburg and Lübeck, for at the latter place we were to pick up some of our party; and, indeed, under any circumstances, it is the best route for a first visit to the country, for then you approach @@ -8582,7 +8540,7 @@ us at Stockholm.</p> <p>Time did not permit us to see the Zoological Gardens, which are said to be almost the best in Europe; for the -hour for starting for Lübeck had arrived, and we were +hour for starting for Lübeck had arrived, and we were obliged to leave the wealthy city of Hamburg but half explored.</p> @@ -8601,15 +8559,15 @@ in this very district, and that he was with difficulty rescued by the ambassador himself from being seriously maltreated by the natives.</p> -<p>Arriving at Lübeck, when the evening light was red<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_223" id="Page_223">[Pg 223]</a></span> +<p>Arriving at Lübeck, when the evening light was red<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_223" id="Page_223">[Pg 223]</a></span> upon the beautiful Holstein Thor, and upon the many spires and towers of the quaint old town, it seemed almost as if we had been dropped into the Middle Ages. It impressed me more strongly with a sense of Old-World life -than Nürnberg, Regensburg, or any other of the German +than Nürnberg, Regensburg, or any other of the German towns that I have visited dating from about that time.</p> -<p>The environs of Lübeck are very pleasant in summer, +<p>The environs of Lübeck are very pleasant in summer, for the whole country round is so densely wooded, and there are drives in all directions to quaint little villages that look like pictures out of the past....</p> @@ -8648,7 +8606,7 @@ till two o’clock dinner,—a meal which occupies an hour and a half nearly. The cuisine is excellent, and there is nothing to do particularly on deck in the middle of the day except to select an easy seat under the shady awning, so you submit -to the table-d’hôte with admirable patience.</p> +to the table-d’hôte with admirable patience.</p> <p>After dinner the Swedes regale themselves with a glass of sherry or cognac, with a cigar, and an hour later you @@ -8772,12 +8730,12 @@ holiday-maker, who, before he is aware, finds himself suffering from a surfeit of useful knowledge. Don’t look at “Murray” or “Baedeker,” but just allow yourself to go with the tide in this pleasure-loving city. In -the forenoon one must eat ices in the delicious little café -called the Strömparterre. It is a garden by the water-side, +the forenoon one must eat ices in the delicious little café +called the Strömparterre. It is a garden by the water-side, and, though quite in the centre of the town, bright with a profusion of flowers and waving trees. Here you may sit and watch the little steamers coming and going every few -minutes from the Djurgárd Park. The waters are alive +minutes from the Djurgárd Park. The waters are alive with these boats, and with other craft, for the locomotion of the city is mostly conducted by water. One can go anywhere and everywhere, it would seem, for a few ocre, @@ -8786,12 +8744,12 @@ and a riksdollar is about thirteen pence of our money.</p> <p>One of the first of many pleasant excursions that we made was to Mariefred and the royal castle of Gripsholm. -This interesting place is on the south side of the Mälar +This interesting place is on the south side of the Mälar Lake. The steamer from Stockholm takes about three hours, and the voyage gives one an opportunity of seeing some of the prettiest scenery in the environs of the capital. The deep fjords, the fairy islands, the well-wooded banks of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_228" id="Page_228">[Pg 228]</a></span> -the Mälar Lake, present an ever-changing combination of +the Mälar Lake, present an ever-changing combination of picturesque objects. Conspicuous among the rest is the high rock of Kungshatt, where stands a pole with a hat, to keep alive the story of some king of old, who jumped @@ -8913,7 +8871,7 @@ down with the family in the general room to your meal. It will assuredly consist of either trout and salmon, or salmon and trout, with perhaps an egg, perhaps potatoes, perhaps black bread. No Bass, but perhaps some Norsk -Öl, a very pleasant beverage. After supper you will smoke +Öl, a very pleasant beverage. After supper you will smoke a pipe with your landlord, who will probably invite you to see the pigs, or will lend you a hand to splice up any broken harness of your carriole.</p> @@ -8999,10 +8957,10 @@ fishing avocations,—all these will be novel.</p> <p>Among the red-letter days of the trip will be a sail among the Loffoden Islands, “jagged as the jaws of a shark,” and swarming with sea-fowl; a glimpse at the -neighborhood of the Maelström, so celebrated in fable; a +neighborhood of the Maelström, so celebrated in fable; a visit to a Lapp encampment, and an occasional stroll through some of the towns at which the steamer stays. -Tromsö is one of these halting-places: it is a modern town, +Tromsö is one of these halting-places: it is a modern town, which has grown rapidly. It was only founded in 1794, and in 1816 had but three hundred inhabitants; now, owing to the success of its herring-fishery, it has grown @@ -9015,7 +8973,7 @@ the world, and because “in the season” it is crowded with representatives of all nations, who come here to trade, but because here you are within the limits of the region of the Midnight Sun, and from here you will take your boat (unless -you continue by the Vadsö steamer) for the North Cape.</p> +you continue by the Vadsö steamer) for the North Cape.</p> <p>The effect of the midnight sun has been variously described.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_234" id="Page_234">[Pg 234]</a></span> Carlyle revels in the idea that while all the nations @@ -9040,7 +8998,7 @@ you landed on your excursion to the North Cape; how every one seemed impressed with the same idea that it was a sacrilege to break the silence, and the party that set forth in high spirits had settled down into the gravity of -a funeral cortége. And it is strange how the stillness and +a funeral cortége. And it is strange how the stillness and awfulness, felt while in the little boat upon the silent sea, held you spellbound and entranced; and the spell could not be broken until you set to work on the difficult climb @@ -9173,7 +9131,7 @@ go down in this land; the <cite>Tribune</cite> was a voiceless oracle; the <cite>World</cite> ceased to “move after all;” the <cite>Times</cite> were out of joint, and the <cite>Express</cite> came to a dead halt! But all this had its compensations; for soon we cross the great -bridge, and are housed in the Hôtel d’Angleterre, where +bridge, and are housed in the Hôtel d’Angleterre, where though no papers were found in our expected mail, plenty of news as to the President, and the land we love, were found in letters, and these twelve days only from New @@ -9412,7 +9370,7 @@ of all the palaces in the world, I suppose the Winter Palace would be that superlative edifice. Since the attempt to blow it up as the royal people were about to dine it has been closed. I made an effort, through Colonel Hoffman, -our chargé d’affaires, to obtain an entrance for the Americans +our chargé d’affaires, to obtain an entrance for the Americans now stopping here, but vainly. Recent events forbade. The Czar himself will not go into it again. It is shut for two years. This was a disappointment, but it was partly @@ -9759,7 +9717,7 @@ boots, plunge our swollen feet into cold water, and, with coats off and collars thrown open, sit over our tea and black bread in that quaint little cross-beamed room, with an appetite never excited by the best <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">plats</i> of the Erz-Herzog -Karl or the Trois Frères Provençaux. Two things, +Karl or the Trois Frères Provençaux. Two things, at least, one may always be sure of finding in perfection at a Russian post-station: tea is the one; the other I need not particularize, as its presence does not usually become @@ -10325,7 +10283,7 @@ through them trousers, anyhow.”</p> <p>I must confess that I rather chuckled as my legs assumed herculean proportions, and I thought that I should have a good laugh at the wind, no matter how cutting it might -be; but Æolus had the laugh on his side before the journey +be; but Æolus had the laugh on his side before the journey was over. A heavy flannel undershirt, and shirt covered by a thick wadded waistcoat and coat, encased my body, which was further enveloped in a huge <i lang="ru" xml:lang="ru">shuba</i>, or fur @@ -10423,9 +10381,9 @@ themselves to its crest. There a huge obelisk, which, if of stone, might have come from ancient Thebes, lay half buried beneath a pile of fleecy snow. Farther on we came to what might have been a Roman temple or vast hall in -the palace of a Cæsar, where many half-hidden pillars and +the palace of a Cæsar, where many half-hidden pillars and monuments erected their tapering summits above the piles -of the débris. The wind had done in that northern latitude +of the débris. The wind had done in that northern latitude what has been performed by some violent preadamite agency in the Berber desert. Take away the ebon blackness of the stony masses which have been there @@ -10587,7 +10545,7 @@ as in the one inhabited by the family.</p> <p>“This is a little better,” muttered my companion, unpacking his portmanteau and taking out a teapot, with two small metal cases containing tea and sugar. “Quick, -Tëtka, Aunt!” he cried (this to the old woman of the +Tëtka, Aunt!” he cried (this to the old woman of the house), “quick with the samovar!” when an aged female, who might have been any age from eighty to a hundred, for she was almost bent double by decrepitude, carried in @@ -10616,8 +10574,8 @@ asked a pupil of his master. “Absence of pain,” was the philosopher’s answer; and let any one who doubts that a feeling of intense enjoyment can be obtained from drinking a mere glass of tea, try a sleighing journey through -Russia with the thermometer at 20° Reaumur and a wind. -[20° Reaumur below zero equals -13° Fahrenheit.]</p> +Russia with the thermometer at 20° Reaumur and a wind. +[20° Reaumur below zero equals -13° Fahrenheit.]</p> <p>In almost an hour’s time we were ready to start, but not so our driver, and to the expostulations of my companion @@ -11163,384 +11121,7 @@ A few (2) obvious misspellings were corrected. If you wish to check these, you can search the HTML source code for 'Transcriber's Note'. </p> - - - - - - -<pre> - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of With the World's Great Travellers, -Volume IV, by Various - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK WORLD'S GREAT TRAVELLERS *** - -***** This file should be named 43745-h.htm or 43745-h.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/4/3/7/4/43745/ - -Produced by D Alexander, Ralph Carmichael and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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