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diff --git a/old/43655.txt b/old/43655.txt deleted file mode 100644 index bce0886..0000000 --- a/old/43655.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,22504 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of In Darkest Africa, Vol. 2; or, The quest, -rescue and retreat of Emin, governor of Equatoria, by Henry Morton Stanley - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license - - -Title: In Darkest Africa, Vol. 2; or, The quest, rescue and retreat of Emin, governor of Equatoria - -Author: Henry Morton Stanley - -Release Date: September 9, 2013 [EBook #43655] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ASCII - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK IN DARKEST AFRICA, VOL. 2 *** - - - - -Produced by Chuck Greif and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by the -Posner Memorial Collection -(http://posner.library.cmu.edu/Posner/)) - - - - - - - - - [Illustration: Henry M. Stanley Signature - - 1890] - - COPYRIGHT 1890 BY CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS - - - - - IN DARKEST AFRICA - - OR THE - - QUEST, RESCUE, AND RETREAT OF EMIN - GOVERNOR OF EQUATORIA - - BY - - HENRY M. STANLEY - - WITH TWO STEEL ENGRAVINGS, AND ONE HUNDRED AND - FIFTY ILLUSTRATIONS AND MAPS - - IN TWO VOLUMES - - VOL. II - - "I will not cease to go forward until I come to - the place where the two seas meet, - though I travel ninety years."--KORAN, chap. xviii., v. 62. - - NEW YORK - CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS - - 1890 - - [_All rights reserved_] - - COPYRIGHT, 1890, BY - CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS - - Press of J. J. Little & Co., - Astor Place, New York. - - - - -CONTENTS OF VOLUME II. - - -CHAPTER XXI. - -WE START OUR THIRD JOURNEY TO THE NYANZA. - - PAGE - - -Mr. Bonny and the Zanzibaris--The Zanzibaris' complaints--Poison of the -Manioc--Conversations with Ferajji and Salim--We tell the rear column of -the rich plenty of the Nyanza--We wait for Tippu-Tib at Bungangeta -Island--Muster of our second journey to the Albert--Mr. Jameson's letter -from Stanley Falls dated August 12th--The flotilla of canoes starts--The -Mariri Rapids--Ugarrowwa and Salim bin Mohammed visit me--Tippu-Tib, -Major Barttelot and the carriers--Salim bin Mohammed--My answer to -Tippu-Tib--Salim and the Manyuema--The settlement of the -Batundu--Small-pox among the Madi carriers and the Manyuema--Two insane -women--Two more Zanzibari raiders slain--Breach of promises in the -Expedition--The Ababua tribe--Wasp Rapids--Ten of our men killed and -eaten by natives--Canoe accident at Manginni--Lakki's raiding party at -Mambanga--Feruzi and the bush antelope--Our cook, Jabu, shot dead by a -poisoned arrow--Panga Falls--Further casualties by the natives--Nejambi -Rapids--The poisoned arrows--Mabengu Rapids--Child-birth on the -road--Our sick list--Native affection--A tornado at Little Rapids--Mr. -Bonny discovers the village of Bavikai--Remarks about Malaria--Emin -Pasha and mosquito curtain--Encounter with the Bavikai natives--A cloud -of moths at Hippo Broads--Death of the boy Soudi--Incident at -Avaiyabu--Result of vaccinating the Zanzibaris--Zanzibari stung by -wasps--Misfortunes at Amiri Rapids--Our casualities--Collecting food -prior to march to Avatiko 1 - - -CHAPTER XXII. - -ARRIVAL AT FORT BODO. - - -Ugarrowwa's old station once more--March to Bunda--We cross the Ituri -River--Note written by me opposite the mouth of the Lenda River--We -reach the Avatiko plantations--Mr. Bonny measures a pigmy--History and -dress of the pigmies--A conversation by gesture--The pigmy's -wife--Monkeys and other animals in the forest--The clearing of -Andaki--Our tattered clothes--The Ihuru River--Scarcity of food; Amani's -meals--Uledi searches for food--Missing provisions--We reach -Kilonga-Longa's village again--More deaths--The forest improves for -travelling--Skirmish near Andikumu--Story of the pigmies and the box of -ammunition--We pass Kakwa Hill--Defeat of a caravan--The last of the -Somalis--A heavy shower of rain--Welcome food discovery at Indemau--We -bridge the Dui River--A rough muster of the people--A stray goat at our -Ngwetza camp--Further capture of dwarfs--We send back to Ngwetza for -plantains--Loss of my boy Saburi in the forest--We wonder what has -become of the Ngwetza party--My boy Saburi turns up--Starvation Camp--We -go in search of the absentees, and meet them in the forest--The Ihuru -River--And subsequent arrival at Fort Bodo 37 - - -CHAPTER XXIII. - -THE GREAT CENTRAL AFRICAN FOREST. - - -Professor Drummond's statements respecting Africa--Dimensions of the -great forest--Vegetation--Insect life--Description of the trees, -&c.--Tribes and their food--The primaeval forest--The bush proper--The -clearings: wonders of vegetable life--The queer feeling of loneliness--A -forest tempest--Tropical vegetation along the banks of the -Aruwimi--Wasps' nests--The forest typical of human life--A few secrets -of the woods--Game in the forest--Reasons why we did not hunt the -animals--Birds--The Simian tribe--Reptiles and insects--The small bees -and the beetles--The "jigger"--Night disturbances by falling trees, -&c.--The Chimpanzee--The rainiest zone of the earth--The Ituri or Upper -Aruwimi--The different tribes and their languages--Their features and -customs--Their complexion--Conversation with some captives at -Engwedde--The Wambutti dwarfs: their dwellings and mode of living--The -Batwa dwarfs--Life in the forest villages--Two Egyptians captured by the -dwarfs at Fort Bodo--The poisons used for the arrows--Our treatment for -wounds by the arrows--The wild fruits of the forest--Domestic -animals--Ailments of the Madis and Zanzibaris--The Congo Railway and the -forest products 73 - - -CHAPTER XXIV. - -IMPRISONMENT OF EMIN PASHA AND MR. JEPHSON. - - -Our reception at Fort Bodo--Lieut. Stairs' report of what took place at -the Fort during our relief of the rear column--No news of -Jephson--Muster of our men--We burn the Fort and advance to find Emin -and Jephson--Camp at Kandekore--Parting words to Lieut. Stairs and -Surgeon Parke, who are left in charge of the sick--Mazamboni gives us -news of Emin and Jephson--Old Gavira escorts us--Two Wahuma messengers -bring letters from Emin and Jephson--Their contents--My replies to the -same handed to Chief Mogo for delivery--The Balegga attack us, but, with -the help of the Bavira, are repulsed--Mr. Jephson turns up--We talk of -Emin--Jephson's report bearing upon the revolt of the troops of -Equatoria, also his views respecting the invasion of the province by the -Mahdists, and its results--Emin Pasha sends through Mr. Jephson an -answer to my last letter 112 - - -CHAPTER XXV. - -EMIN PASHA AND HIS OFFICERS REACH OUR CAMP AT KAVALLI. - - -Lieut. Stairs and his caravan are sent for--Plans regarding the release -of Emin from Tunguru--Conversations with Jephson by which I acquire a -pretty correct idea of the state of affairs--The rebel officers at -Wadelai--They release Emin, and proceed in the s.s. _Khedive_ and -_Nyanza_ to our camp at Kavalli--Emin Pasha's arrival--Stairs and his -caravan arrive at Mazamboni's--Characteristic letter from Jephson, who -is sent to bring Emin and his officers from the Lake to Kavalli--Short -note from the Pasha--Arrival of Emin Pasha's caravan--We make a grand -display outside our camp--At the grand divan: Selim Bey--Stairs' column -rolls into camp with piles of wealth--Mr. Bonny despatched to the Nyanza -to bring up baggage--Text of my message to the rest of the revolted -officers at Wadelai--Note from Mr. Bonny--The Greek merchant, Signor -Marco, arrives--Suicide of Zanzibari named Mrima--Neighbouring chiefs -supply us with carriers--Captain Nelson brings in Emin's -baggage--Arrangements with the chiefs from the Ituri River to the -Nyanza--The chief Kabba-Rega--Emin Pasha's daughter--Selim Bey receives -a letter from Fadl-el-Mulla--The Pasha appointed naturalist and -meteorologist to the Expedition--The Pasha a Materialist--Dr. Hassan's -arrival--My inspection over the camp--Capt. Casati arrives--Mr. Bonny -appears with Awash Effendi and his baggage--The rarest doctor in the -world--Discovery of some chimpanzees--The Pasha in his vocation of -"collecting"--Measurements of the dwarfs--Why I differ with Emin in the -judgment of his men--Various journeys from the camp to the Lake for men -and baggage--The Zanzibaris' complaints of the ringleaders--Hassan -Bakari--The Egyptian officers--Interview with Shukri Agha--The flora on -the Baregga Hills--The chief of Usiri joins our -confederacy--Conversation with Emin regarding Selim Bey and Shukri -Agha--Address by me to Stairs, Nelson, Jephson and Parke before Emin -Pasha--Their replies--Notices to Selim Bey and Shukri Agha 139 - - -CHAPTER XXVI. - -WE START HOMEWARD FOR ZANZIBAR. - - -False reports of strangers at Mazamboni's--Some of the Pasha's -ivory--Osman Latif Effendi gives me his opinions on the Wadelai -officers--My boy Sali as spy in the camp--Capt. Casati's views of Emin's -departure from his province--Lieut. Stairs makes the first move -homeward--Weights of my officers at various places--Ruwenzori -visible--The little girl reared by Casati--I act as mediator between -Mohammed Effendi, his wife, and Emin--Bilal and Serour--Attempts to -steal rifles from the Zanzibari's huts--We hear of disorder and distress -at Wadelai and Mswa--Two propositions made to Emin Pasha--Signal for -general muster under arms sounded--Emin's Arabs are driven to muster by -the Zanzibaris--Address to the Egyptians and Soudanese--Lieut. Stairs -brings the Pasha's servants into the square--Serour and three others, -being the principal conspirators, placed under guard--Muster of Emin -Pasha's followers--Osman Latif Effendi and his mother--Casati and Emin -not on speaking terms--Preparing for the march--Fight with clubs between -the Nubian, Omar, and the Zanzibaris--My judgments on the combatants--We -leave Kavalli for Zanzibar--The number of our column--Halt in -Mazamboni's territory--I am taken ill with inflammation of the -stomach--Dr. Parke's skilful nursing--I plan in my mind the homeward -march--Frequent reports to me of plots in the camp--Lieut. Stairs and -forty men capture Rehan and twenty-two deserters who left with our -rifles--At a holding of the court it is agreed to hang Rehan--Illness of -Surgeon Parke and Mr. Jephson--A packet of letters intended for Wadelai -falls into my hands, and from which we learn of an important plot -concocted by Emin's officers--Conversation with Emin Pasha about the -same--Shukri Agha arrives in our camp with two followers--Lieut. Stairs -buries some ammunition--We continue our march and camp at -Bunyambiri--Mazamboni's services and hospitality--Three soldiers appear -with letters from Selim Bey--Their contents--Conversation with the -soldiers--They take a letter to Selim Bey from Emin--Ali Effendi and his -servants accompany the soldiers back to Selim Bey 182 - - -CHAPTER XXVII. - -EMIN PASHA--A STUDY. - - -The Relief of David Livingstone compared with the Relief of Emin -Pasha--Outline of the journey of the Expedition to the first meeting -with Emin--Some few points relating to Emin on which we had been -misinformed--Our high conception of Emin Pasha--Loyalty of the troops, -and Emin's extreme indecision--Surprise at finding Emin a prisoner on -our third return to the Nyanza--What might have been averted by the -exercise of a little frankness and less reticence on Emin's part--Emin's -virtues and noble desires--The Pasha from our point of view--Emin's rank -and position in Khartoum, and gradual rise to Governor of -Equatoria--Gordon's trouble in the Soudan--Emin's consideration and -patience--After 1883 Emin left to his own resources--Emin's small -explorations--Correctness of what the Emperor Hadrian wrote of the -Egyptians--The story of Emin's struggles with the Mahdi's forces from -1883 to 1885--Dr. Junker takes Emin's despatches to Zanzibar in -1886--Kabba Rega a declared enemy of Emin--The true position of Emin -Pasha prior to his relief by us, showing that good government was -impossible--Two documents (one from Osman Digna, and the other from Omar -Saleh) received from Sir Francis Grenfell, the Sirdar 228 - - -CHAPTER XXVIII. - -TO THE ALBERT EDWARD NYANZA. - - -Description of the road from Bundegunda--We get a good view of the twin -peaks in the Ruwenzori range--March to Utinda--The Pasha's officers -abuse the officer in command: which compels a severe order--Kaibuga -urges hostilities against Uhobo--Brush with the enemy: Casati's servant, -Akili, killed--Description of the Ruwenzori range as seen from -Mboga--Mr. Jephson still an invalid--The little stowaway named -Tukabi--Captain Nelson examines the Semliki for a suitable ferry--We -reach the Semliki river: description of the same--Uledi and Saat Tato -swim across the river for a canoe--A band of Wara Sura attack us--All -safely ferried across the river--In the Awamba forest--Our progress to -Baki-kundi--We come across a few Baundwe, forest aborigines--the -Egyptians and their followers--Conversation with Emin Pasha--Unexplored -parts of Africa--Abundance of food--Ruwenzori from the spur of -Ugarama--Two native women give us local information--We find an old man -at Batuma--At Bukoko we encounter some Manyuema raiders: their -explanation--From Bakokoro we arrive at Mtarega, the foot of the -Ruwenzori range--Lieutenant Stairs with some men explore the Mountains -of the Moon--Report of Lieutenant Stairs' experiences--The Semliki -valley--The Rami-lulu valley--The perfection of a tropical -forest--Villages in the clearing of Ulegga--Submission of a Ukonju -chief--Local knowledge from our friends the Wakonju--Description of the -Wakonju tribe--The Semliki river--View of Ruwenzori from Mtsora--We -enter Muhamba, and next day camp at Karimi--Capture of some fat cattle -of Rukara's--the Zeriba of Rusesse--Our first view of Lake Albert Edward -Nyanza 250 - - -CHAPTER XXIX. - -THE SOURCES OF THE NILE--THE MOUNTAINS OF THE MOON, AND THE FOUNTAINS OF -THE NILE. - - -Pere Jerome Lobo and the Nile--The chartographers of Homer's -time--Hekataeus's ideas of Africa--Africa after Hipparchus--The great -Ptolemy's map--Edrisi's map--Map of the Margarita Philosophica--Map of -John Ruysch--Sylvannus' map--Sebastian Cabot's map--The arbitrariness of -the modern map maker--Map of Constable, Edinburgh--What Hugh Murray says -in his book published in 1818--A fine dissertation on the Nile by Father -Lobo--Extracts from part of a MS. in the possession of H. E. Ali Pasha -Moubarek--Plan of Mount Gumr--A good description of Africa by -Scheabeddin--The Nile according to Abdul Hassen Ali--Abu Abd Allah -Mohammed on the Nile river 291 - - -CHAPTER XXX. - -RUWENZORI: THE CLOUD KING. - - -Recent travellers who have failed to see this range--Its classical -history--The range of mountains viewed from Pisgah by us in 1887--The -twin cones and snowy mountain viewed by us in 1888 and January -1889--Description of the range--The Semliki valley--A fair figurative -description of Ruwenzori--The principal drainage of the snowy range--The -luxurious productive region known as Awamba forest or the Semliki -valley--Shelter from the winds--Curious novelties in plants in Awamba -forest--The plains between Mtsora and Muhamba--Changes of climate and -vegetation on nearing the hills constituting the southern flank of -Ruwenzori--The north-west and west side of Ruwenzori--Emotions raised in -us at the sight of Ruwenzori--The reason why so much snow is retained on -Ruwenzori--The ascending fields of snow and great tracts of -_debris_--Brief views of the superb Rain Creator or Cloud -King--Impression made on all of us by the skyey crests and snowy breasts -of Ruwenzori 313 - - -CHAPTER XXXI. - -RUWENZORI AND LAKE ALBERT EDWARD. - - -Importance of maps in books of travels--The time spent over my maps--The -dry bed of a lake discovered near Karimi; its computed size--Lessons -acquired in this wonderful region--What we learn by observation from the -Semliki valley to the basin of the twin lakes--Extensive plain between -Rusesse and Katwe--The Zeribas of euphorbia of Wasongora--The raid of -the Waganda made eighteen years ago--The grass and water on the wide -expanses of flats--The last view and southern face of Ruwenzori--The -town of Katwe--The Albert Edward Nyanza--Analysis of the brine obtained -from the Salt Lake at Katwe--Surroundings of the Salt Lake--The blood -tints of its waters--The larger Salt Lake of Katwe, sometimes called -Lake of Mkiyo--The great repute of the Katwe salt--The Lakists of the -Albert Edward--Bevwa, on our behalf, makes friends with the -natives--Kakuri appears with some Wasongora chiefs--Exploration of the -large Katwe lake--Kaiyura's settlement--Katwe Bay--A black leopard--The -native huts at Mukungu--We round an arm of the lake called Beatrice -Gulf, and halt at Muhokya--Ambuscade by some of the Wara-Sura, near the -Rukoki: we put them to flight--And capture a Mhuma woman--Captain Nelson -and men follow up the rear guard of Rukara--Halt at Buruli: our Wakonju -and Wasongora friends leave us--Sickness amongst us through bad -water--The Nsongi River crossed--Capture of a Wara-Sura--Illness and -death among the Egyptians and blacks--Our last engagement with the -Wara-Sura at Kavandare pass--Bulemo-Ruigi places his country at our -disposal--The Pasha's muster roll--Myself and others are smitten down -with fever at Katari Settlement--The south side of Lake Albert Edward -and rivers feeding the Lake--Our first and last view, also colour of the -Lake--What we might have seen if the day had been clearer 334 - - -CHAPTER XXXII. - -THROUGH ANKORI TO THE ALEXANDRA NILE. - - -The routes to the sea, _via_ Uganda, through Ankori, to Ruanda and -thence to Tanganika--We decide on the Ankori route--We halt at Kitete, -and are welcomed in the name of King Antari--Entertained by Masakuma and -his women--A glad message from King Antari's mother--Two Waganda -Christians, named Samuel and Zachariah, appear in camp: Zachariah -relates a narrative of astounding events which had occurred in -Uganda--Mwanga, King of Uganda; his behaviour--Our people recovering -from the fever epidemic--March up the valley between Iwanda and Denny -Range--We camp at Wamaganga--Its inhabitants--The Rwizi River -crossed--Present from the king's mother--The feelings of the natives -provoked by scandalous practices of some of my men--An incident -illustrating the different views men take of things--Halt at the valley -of Rusussu--Extract from my diary--We continue our journey down Namianja -Valley--The peaceful natives turn on us, but are punished by Prince -Uchunku's men--I go through the rite of blood-brotherhood with Prince -Uchunku--The Prince's wonder at the Maxim gun--A second deputation from -the Waganda Christians: my long cross-examination of them: extract from -my journal--My answer to the Christians--We enter the valley of -Mavona--And come in sight of the Alexandra Valley--The Alexandra -Nile 358 - - -CHAPTER XXXIII. - -THE TRIBES OF THE GRASS-LAND. - - -The Wahuma: the exact opposite of the Dwarfs: their descendants--Tribes -nearly allied to the true negro type--Tribes of the Nilotic basin--The -Herdsmen--The traditions of Unyoro--My experiences of the Wahuma gained -while at Kavalli--View of the surrounding country from Kavalli -camp--Chiefs Kavalli, Katto, and Gavira, unbosom their wrongs to me--Old -Ruguji's reminiscences--The pasture-land lying between Lake Albert and -the forest--The cattle in the district round Kavalli: their -milk-yield--Three cases referring to cattle which I am called upon to -adjudicate--Household duties of the women--Dress among the Wahuma--Old -Egyptian and Ethiopian characteristics preserved among the tribes of the -grass-land--Customs, habits, and religion of the tribes--Poor Gaddo -suspected of conspiracy against his chief, Kavalli: his death--Diet of -the Wahuma--The climate of the region of the grass-land 384 - - -CHAPTER XXXIV. - -TO THE ENGLISH MISSION STATION, SOUTH END OF VICTORIA NYANZA. - - -Ankori and Karagwe under two aspects--Karagwe; and the Alexandra -Nile--Mtagata Hot Springs--A baby rhinoceros, captured by the Nubians, -shows fight in camp--Disappearance of Wadi Asmani--The Pasha's opinion -of Capt. Casati--Surgeon Parke and the pigmy damsel--Conduct of a boy -pigmy--Kibbo-bora loses his wife at the Hot Springs--Arrival at -Kufurro--Recent kings of Karagwe--Kiengo and Captain Nelson's -resemblance to "Speke"--The King of Uganda greatly dreaded in -Karagwe--Ndagara refuses to let our sick stay in his country--Camp at -Uthenga: loss of men through the cold--We throw superfluous articles in -Lake Urigi in order to carry the sick--We enter the district of -Ihangiro: henceforward our food has to be purchased--the Lake of -Urigi--At the village of Mutara, Fath-el-Mullah runs amuck with the -natives, and is delivered over to them--The Unyamatundu plateau--Halt at -Ngoti: Mwengi their chief--Kajumba's territory--We obtain a good view of -Lake Victoria--The country round Kisaho--Lions and human skulls in the -vicinity of our camp--The events of 1888 cleared our track for a -peaceful march to the sea--We reach Amranda and Bwanga--The French -missionaries and their stations at Usambiro--Arrival at Mr. Mackay's, -the English Mission station--Mr. Mackay and his books--We rest, and -replenish our stores, etc.--Messrs. Mackay and Deakes give us a -sumptuous dinner previous to our departure--The last letter from Mr. A. -M. Mackay, dated January 5, 1890 404 - - -CHAPTER XXXV. - -FROM THE VICTORIA NYANZA TO ZANZIBAR. - - -Missionary work along the shores of the Victoria Nyanza and along the -Congo river--The road from Mackay's Mission--The country at -Genge--Considerable difficulty at preserving the peace at Kungu--Rupture -of peace at Ikoma--Capture and release of Monangwa--The Wasukuma -warriors attack us, but finally retire--Treachery--The natives follow us -from Nera to Seke--We enter the district of Sinyanga; friendship between -the natives and our men--Continued aggression of the natives--Heavy -tributes--Massacre of caravan--The district of Usongo, and its chief -Mittinginya--His surroundings and neighbours--Two French missionaries -overtake us--Human skulls at Ikungu--We meet one of Tippu-Tib's caravans -from Zanzibar--Troubled Ugogo--Lieutenant Schmidt welcomes us at the -German station of Mpwapwa--Emin Pasha visits the Peres of the French -Mission of San Esprit--The Fathers unacquainted with Emin's repute--Our -mails in Africa continually going astray--Contents of some newspaper -clippings--Baron von Gravenreuth and others meet us at Msua--Arrival of -an Expedition with European provisions, clothing and boots for us--Major -Wissman--He and Schmidt take Emin and myself on to Bagamoyo--Dinner and -guests at the German officer's mess house--Major Wissman proposes the -healths of the guests; Emin's and my reply to the same--Emin's -accident--I visit Emin in the hospital--Surgeon Parke's report--The -feeling at Bagamoyo--Embark for Zanzibar--Parting words with Emin -Pasha--Illness of Doctor Parke--Emin Pasha enters the service of the -German Government--Emin Pasha's letter to Sir John Kirk--Sudden -termination of Emin's acquaintance with me--Three occasions when I -apparently offended Emin--Emin's fears that he would be unemployed--The -British East African Company and Emin--Courtesy and hospitality at -Zanzibar--Monies due to the survivors of the Relief -Expedition--Tippu-Tib's agent at Zanzibar, Jaffar Tarya--The Consular -Judge grants me an injunction against Jaffar Tarya--At -Cairo--Conclusion 432 - - - - -APPENDICES. - - -A.--CONGRATULATIONS BY CABLE RECEIVED AT ZANZIBAR 481 - -B.--COMPARATIVE TABLES OF FOREST AND GRASS-LAND LANGUAGES 490 - -C.--ITINERARY OF THE JOURNEYS MADE IN 1887, 1888, 1889 496 - -D.--BALANCE SHEET, &C., OF THE RELIEF EXPEDITION 513 - -GENERAL INDEX 515 - - - - -LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. - -VOLUME II. - - -_STEEL ENGRAVING._ - -PORTRAIT OF HENRY M. STANLEY _Frontispiece._ - -(From a Photograph taken at Cairo, March, 1890.) - -_FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS._ - - Facing - page - -SWORDS AND KNIVES OF THE ABABUA 22 - -ENTERING ANDIKUMU 50 - -THE SCOUTS DISCOVER THE PIGMIES CARRYING AWAY THE CASE OF -AMMUNITION 54 - -STARVATION CAMP: SERVING OUT MILK AND BUTTER FOR BROTH 66 - -A PAGE FROM MR. STANLEY'S NOTE-BOOK--SKETCH-MAPS 94 - -THE PIGMIES AT HOME--A ZANZIBAR SCOUT TAKING NOTES 104 - -ADDRESS TO REBEL OFFICERS AT KAVALLI 148 - -THE PIGMIES AS COMPARED WITH THE ENGLISH OFFICERS, SOUDANESE, -AND ZANZIBARIS 152 - -THE PIGMIES UNDER THE LENS, AS COMPARED TO CAPTAIN CASATI'S -SERVANT OKILI 164 - -CLIMBING THE PLATEAU SLOPES 170 - -RESCUED EGYPTIANS AND THEIR FAMILIES 220 - -RUWENZORI, FROM KAVALLI'S 252 - -RUWENZORI, FROM MTSORA 286 - -BIRD'S-EYE VIEW OF RUWENZORI, LAKE ALBERT EDWARD, AND LAKE -ALBERT 318 - -RUWENZORI, FROM KARIMI 328 - -EXPEDITION WINDING UP THE GORGE OF KARYA-MUHORO 362 - -A PAGE FROM MR. STANLEY'S NOTE-BOOK--MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS 396 - -WEAPONS OF THE BALEGGA AND WAHUMA TRIBES 400 - -BABY RHINOCEROS SHOWING FIGHT IN CAMP 406 - -SOUTH-WEST EXTREMITY OF LAKE VICTORIA NYANZA 419 - -STANLEY, EMIN, AND OFFICERS AT USAMBIRO 425 - -EXPERIENCES IN USUKUMA 438 - -BANQUET AT MSUA 450 - -UNDER THE PALMS AT BAGAMOYO 454 - -THE RELIEF EXPEDITION RETURNING TO ZANZIBAR 462 - -THE FAITHFULS AT ZANZIBAR 474 - -_OTHER ILLUSTRATIONS._ - -A SWIMMING RACE AFTER A BUSH ANTELOPE 25 - -DWARF CAPTIVE AT AVITAKO 41 - -BRIDGING THE DUI RIVER 60 - -TWO-EDGED SPEARS 99 - -PLAY-TABLE 99 - -BACK-REST AND STOOL 99 - -DECORATED EARTHEN POT 99 - -ARROWS OF THE DWARFS 101 - -ELEPHANT TRAP 102 - -A BELLE OF BAVIRA 130 - -VIEW OF CAMP AT KAVALLI 140 - -SHUKRI AGHA, COMMANDANT OF MSWA STATION 173 - -SALI, HEAD-BOY 185 - -AN ANCIENT EGYPTIAN LADY 207 - -ATTACK BY THE WANYORO AT SEMLIKI FERRY 260 - -HOUSES ON THE EDGE OF THE FOREST 264 - -EGYPTIAN WOMEN AND CHILDREN 266 - -THE TALLEST PEAK OF RUWENZORI, FROM AWAMBA FOREST 274 - -SOUTH-WEST TWIN CONES OF RUWENZORI--SKETCH. BY LIEUT. STAIRS 278 - -[1]AFRICA IN HOMER'S WORLD 293 - - " MAP OF HEKATAEUS 294 - - " HIPPARCHUS, 100 B.C. 295 - -PTOLEMY'S MAP OF AFRICA, A.D. 150 295 - -CENTRAL AFRICA ACCORDING TO EDRISI, A.D. 1154 296 - -MAP OF THE MARGARITA PHILOSOPHICA, A.D. 1503 296 - - " JOHN RUYSCH, A.D. 1508 297 - -MAP, SYLVANUS', A.D. 1511 297 - -HIERONIMUS DE VERRAZANO'S MAP, A.D. 1529 298 - -SEBASTIAN CABOT'S MAP OF THE WORLD, 16TH CENTURY 298 - -THE NILE'S SOURCES ACCORDING TO GEOGRAPHERS OF THE 16TH AND -17TH CENTURIES 299 - -MAP OF THE NILE BASIN, A.D. 1819 301 - -MOUNTAINS OF THE MOON--MASSOUDI, 11TH CENTURY 308 - -MAP OF NILE BASIN TO-DAY FROM THE MEDITERRANEAN TO S. LAT. 4 deg. 311 - -VIEW OF RUWENZORI FROM BAKOKORO WESTERN CONES 326 - -THE LITTLE SALT LAKE AT KATWE 342 - -SECTION OF A HOUSE NEAR LAKE ALBERT NYANZA 348 - -A VILLAGE IN ANKORI 361 - -EXPEDITION CLIMBING THE ROCK IN THE VALLEY OF ANKORI 362 - -MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS OF THE BALEGGA 399 - -A HOT SPRING, MTAGATA 406 - -LAKE URIGI 415 -VIEW FROM MACKAY'S MISSION, LAKE VICTORIA 428 - -ROCK HILLS, USAMBIRO 437 - -HOUSE AND BALCONY FROM WHICH EMIN FELL 454 - -SKETCH OF CASKET CONTAINING THE FREEDOM OF THE CITY OF LONDON 488 - -SKETCH OF CASKET, THE GIFT OF KING LEOPOLD 489 - - -_MAPS._ - -A MAP OF THE ROUTE OF THE EMIN PASHA -RELIEF EXPEDITION THROUGH AFRICA. _In Pocket._ - -A MAP OF EMIN PASHA'S PROVINCE. _In Pocket._ - -PROFILE SKETCH OF RUWENZORI AND THE VALLEY OF THE SEMLIKI. - _Facing page 335_ - - - - -IN DARKEST AFRICA. - - - - -CHAPTER XXI. - -WE START OUR THIRD JOURNEY TO THE NYANZA. - - Mr. Bonny and the Zanzibaris--The Zanzibaris' complaints--Poison of - the Manioc--Conversations with Ferajji and Salim--We tell the rear - column of the rich plenty of the Nyanza--We wait for Tippu-Tib at - Bungangeta Island--Muster of our second journey to the Albert--Mr. - Jameson's letter from Stanley Falls dated August 12th--The flotilla - of canoes starts--The Mariri rapids--Ugarrowwa and Salim bin - Mohammed visit me--Tippu-Tib, Major Barttelot, and the - carriers--Salim bin Mohammed--My answer to Tippu-Tib--Salim and the - Manyuema--The settlement of the Batundu--Small-pox among the Madi - carriers and the Manyuema--Two insane women--Two more Zanzibari - raiders slain--Breach of promises in the Expedition--The Ababua - tribe--Wasp Rapids--Ten of our men killed and eaten by - natives--Canoe accident at Manginni--Lakki's raiding party at - Mambanga--Feruzi and the bush antelope--Our cook, Jabu, shot dead - by a poisoned arrow--Panga Falls--Further casualties by the - natives--Nejambi Rapids--The poisoned arrows--Mabengu - Rapids--Child-birth on the road--Our sick list--Native affection--A - tornado at Little Rapids--Mr. Bonny discovers the village of - Bavikai--Remarks about Malaria--Emin Pasha and mosquito - curtain--Encounter with the Bavikai natives--A cloud of moths at - Hippo Broads--Death of the boy Soudi--Incident at Avaiyabu--Result - of vaccinating the Zanzibaris--Zanzibari stung by - wasps--Misfortunes at Amiri Rapids--Our casualties--Collecting food - prior to march to Avatiko. - -[Sidenote: 1888. Aug. 21. Bavabya.] - -That uncanny concurrence of circumstances, illustrated by the contents -of the last chapter, was recalled to my mind again on the next morning -which dawned on us after the arrival of the advance column at Bavabya. - -[Sidenote: 1888. Aug. 21. Forest.] - -In Mr. Bonny's entry in the log-book will be found mentioned that the -Soudanese and Zanzibaris mustered of their own accord to lay their -complaints before me. Mr. Bonny, in his official report, had stated it -was his intention, "under God's help, to make the Expedition more -successful than it had been hitherto." By his written report, and his -oral accounts, by the brave deliberation of his conduct during the -terrible hours of the 19th July, and by the touching fidelity to his -duties, as though every circumstance of his life was precisely what it -ought to be, Mr. Bonny had leaped at a bound, in my estimation, to a -most admiring height. I was sure, also, that Major Barttelot must have -discovered remarkable elements of power in him, which, unfortunately for -my credit, had been unseen by me. But no sooner had permission been -given to the men to speak, than I was amazed at finding himself -listening to a confession that the first day's march to the eastward -under Mr. Bonny was to be the signal for his total abandonment by the -Zanzibaris. - -I gave them a patient hearing. Only sixty seemed in any way likely to -survive the trials they had endured out of the 101 or 102 remaining. -They all appeared unutterably miserable, many seemed heart-broken, but -there were several whose looks suggested a fixed hate, malice, and -spite. - -"Well, sit down, children," said I, "and let us talk this matter -quietly," and when they had seated themselves in a semi-circle before -me, and our own robust people from the Nyanza had crowded about behind, -I addressed them thus:-- - -"Ah, my poor men, the days of weeping and grieving are over. Dry your -tears and be glad. See those stout fellows behind you. They have seen -the white Pasha, they have shared his bounties of meat, and milk and -millet, and have heard him praise their manliness. They are the people -who should weep, but weep for gladness, for every step hence is one step -nearer to Zanzibar. We came back from the Nyanza to seek you who were so -long lost to us. We have found you, thanks be to God! Now, let bygones -be bygones. I cannot restore the dead, but I can rejoice the hearts of -the living. Think no more of your sufferings, but live in hope of a -brighter future. It was necessary for us to go before you, to clear the -road and assist the white man before he perished. We told you all this -before we departed from you. You should have remembered our promise that -as soon as we had found him whom we sought we should come back with the -good news to you. We have kept our word--have you kept yours? - -"No, you lost your faith in us. When the runaways from our party -returned to you, and they, with gaping mouths, told you what was false -to hide their crime of desertion, you listened with wide-open ears, and -accepted their tales as truths. Did they bring a letter from any of us? -No! but you found silver watches, and Arab cloaks striped with gold in -their baggage. Do common carriers find such things in the forest? If -they do, then you should have said to them, 'Come, turn back with us, -and show us the place where we may also find such wealth.' Those -carriers had stolen those things from us, and had run away with their -booty. You saw these things, and yet you believed that we were all -destroyed, that I was shot in seventeen places, and all the white men -except one had been killed, and the one remaining had gone to Ujiji! Oh, -men of little wit! - -"What, nearly 400 Zanzibaris, and six white men, all lost except a few, -and those few gone to Ujiji instead of coming to you, their brothers and -friends! That is too much for belief. I thought Zanzibaris were wiser -men, for truly I have seen wise ones in my time. - -"And if I were not dead, how came you to believe that I would forget -you, and my white sons whom I left with you. Whither could I go, except -to my own children if I were distressed or unable to go on? Was not the -fact of our long absence a proof that we were still going on doing our -work, since even deserters and thieves had nowhere to flee except back -to you? - -"Aye, I see well how it has happened unto you. You lay on your backs -rotting in camp, and have been brooding and thinking until the jiggers -have burrowed into your brains, and Shaitan has caused you to dream of -evil and death. You became hardened in mind, and cruel to your own -bodies. Instead of going to the little masters, and telling them of your -griefs and fears, you have said Mambu Kwa Mungu--it is God's trouble. -Our masters don't care for us, and we don't care for them. - -"Now, Ferajji, you are a head man, tell me what cause of complaint in -particular you have. Did the white men ill-treat you?" - -"No, they treated me well; but they were hard on some of the men." - -"How hard, and on whom?" - -"On the Zanzibaris, and if they were not _chap-a-chap_ (active)." - -"But what did they wish to be _chap-a-chap_ for? Had you important work -to do?" - -"No, for when the steamer went away there was little to do. Only fixing -the earth work, sweep camp, cut fuel, and stand guard at night. But the -_goee-goees_ (lazy or useless) would not come when called. Then the -white men got impatient, and would call again louder. Then the -_goee-goees_ would come slowly--lazily--little by little, and say they -had pains in the head, or in the body, back, chest, or feet. Then the -masters would get angry, and say it was shamming. Every day it was the -same thing." - -"But how could sweeping camp, getting fuel, and standing guard be hard -work for 250 people?" - -"It was no work at all." - -"Was anybody else punished except the _goee goees_?" - -"No one except the thieves." - -"Did you have many of them?" - -"I think all the thieves of Zanzibar joined the 'journey-makers' this -time." - -"That cannot be, Ferajji, because we had some thieves with us, and there -must have been a few left on the coast." - -The audience laugh. Ferajji replied, "That is indeed truth, but we had a -great many. Brass rods, cowries, and garments were lost daily. -Zanzibaris accused Soudanese, Soudanese accused Somalis, Somalis accused -Zanzibaris, and so it went round. Nothing was safe. Put anything under -your pillow, roll it under the sleeping-mat, bind it tight, and make it -into a headrest, and lo! in the morning it was gone! Indeed, I became -afraid my teeth would be stolen next." - -"But those white teeth of yours are not purchased, are they, Ferajji?" - -"No, thank Allah, they were born with me, but those who thrive on -thieving may well be feared." - -"That is true, Ferajji; but why should they have stolen all the time?" - -"Hunger made them steal. Hunger killed the strong lion in the fable, and -hunger will kill the best man." - -"Hunger! what are you talking of. Hunger, with all those fields of -manioc near here?" - -"Manioc, master! Manioc will do for a time, but manioc with sauce is -better." - -"Sauce! I don't understand you, Ferajji?" - -"Why, dry manioc--that is manioc with nothing but itself--manioc in the -morning, and at noon, and at the sunset meal, and nothing but eternal -manioc, with neither salt, nor fish, nor meat, nor oil, nor butter, nor -fat of any kind to assist its passage down the gullet, is apt to cloy. -Give the appetite something now and then new to smell, or see with the -manioc, and the Zanzibari is satisfied. Without that the stomach -by-and-by shuts the door, and won't take anything, and men die." - -"I see, but I left salt in the storeroom. It was to purchase fish, -bananas and palm oil that the brass rods, cowries and beads were for." - -"Ah, now you are drawing near the point, master. Sometimes--nay, we were -a long time without either." - -"But if they were in the store, surely there must be some reason why -they were not given out?" - -"We come to the thieves again, who became so active that they sold our -axes and bill-hooks, and sold them to the natives for fish. Those who -shared in the fish refused to tell who the thieves were, and our rations -of cowries and brass rods were stopped." - -"After all, Ferajji, though manioc by itself is very dry eating, it is -very good food. Think of it, all the blacks from Banana to Stanley -Falls live on it, why should not Zanzibaris of this expedition live on -it as they lived during six years on the Congo with me. I cannot see any -reason for manioc to kill 100 men in eleven months. Tell me when did the -people begin to sicken." - -"There were about a dozen sick when you left, sick of ulcers, bowel and -chest complaints. A few recovered; then, in about four weeks, many got -very feeble, and some sank lower and thinner until they died, and we -buried them. When our friends came up from Bolobo, we thought they -looked very different from us at Yambuya. They were stout and strong--we -were thin and dying. Then, in another month, the men from Bolobo began -to sicken and die, and every few days we buried one, or two, or even -three at a time. There was no difference after a while between the -Yambuya and Bolobo men." - -"Had you any cholera, small-pox, fever, or dysentery among you?" - -"No, the men did not die of any of those things. Perhaps the Somalis and -Soudanese did not take kindly to the climate, but it was not the climate -that killed the Zanzibaris. Oh---- " - -"And you say it was not by the stick, or hard work, or cholera, -small-pox, fever, dysentery or climate?" - -"Nothing of any of those things killed the Zanzibaris." - -"Were they shot, or hanged, poisoned, or drowned?" - -"Neither was any of those things done unto them, and a proper and good -man was never punished, and we had one day out of seven in the week to -ourselves." - -"Now in the name of the Prophet Mohammed--throw your eyesight on these -forty men here who sit apart. Look at those big eyes, hollow cheeks, -thin necks, and every rib bare to the view. You see them? What has -caused those men to be thus?" - -"God knows!" - -"Yet they are wasting away, man, and they will die." - -"It is true." - -"Well, then, give me some idea--of what is killing them?" - -"I cannot tell you, master; may be it is their fate to be thus." - -"Bah! God has done His best for you. He has given you eyes, hands to -feel, feet to walk, a good stomach to digest your food, and a sense to -pilot your path through the world. Don't say that God made strong men to -wither them away in this manner. I must and will find the reason of this -out. - -"Now, you Salim, the son of Rashid, speak to me. The son of a wise -father should know a few wise things. There is Death among you, and I -want to find out why. Say, how you and your comrades living in camp for -a year can lose more lives than we did during all our journey, through -this big forest, despite all the hunger and hard work we met?" - -Salim thus urged, replied modestly: "I am not wise, and all the world -knows it. I am but a youth, and a porter, who for a little wage has come -to gather a little money by carrying my load through Pagan lands. What -strength I have I give freely to the owner of the caravan. Bitter things -have happened to us while you were away. I have lost a brother since I -came here. You must know, sir, that dry manioc and water is not good for -a son of Adam. If our friends and relatives have sickened, and died--it -must surely be that the manioc has had something to do with it. Thank -God, I am well, and still strong, but I have seen the days when I would -willingly have sold my freedom for a full meal. Whatsoever tended to -fill the void of the stomach I have sought out and have continued to -live on day after day, until, praise be to God and the Prophet--you have -come back to us. But, sir, all men are not the same--the sense of all -men is not equal, and it may be that white men differ one from the other -as much as we blacks; for I see that some of them are rich, and some are -poor, some attend the engines down in the belly of the ship, and some -walk the quarter deck and command." - -"Aye, Salim has the gift of speech," murmured the crowd. - -This encouraged Salim, who, clearing his throat, resumed: "There is no -doubt that the main fault lies in the manioc. It is a most bitter kind, -and the effects of eating it we all know. We know the sickness, the -retching, the quaking of the legs, the softening of the muscles, the -pain in the head as if it were bound with iron and the earth swimming -round the place whereon we stand, and the fall into a deadly faint. I -say we have felt all this, and have seen it in others. Some of us have -picked up the knack of making it eatable; but there are others who are -already too feeble or too lazy to try, or try to care how to live. - -"For some time we have been thinking that in every camp of ours there is -nothing but graves, and dying and burying. There has been no meat, nor -salt, nor dripping, nor gravy. There has been manioc, always manioc, and -no more. But if the gullet be dry, what will drive the food down the -passage? If the stomach is filled with loathing it requires a little -gravy or dripping to make the food palatable. - -"We knew that in a few weeks we were to leave here for Stanley Falls, or -for up the river, and we had made up our minds to leave the white men's -service--every one of us. There has been death among us, it is here -still, and no one knows what is the cause of it. I myself don't quite -believe that it is because we are working for white men, but there are -some of us who do. But we were all agreed until you came that we had -seen enough of it. There is another thing I wished to say, and that -is--we have wondered why we who belong to the Continent should die, and -white men who are strangers to it should live. When we were on the Congo -and on other journeys it was the white men who died, and not we. Now it -is we who die, a hundred blacks for one white. No, master, the cause of -death is in the food. The white men had meat of goat, and fowls, and -fish; we have had nothing but manioc and therefore died. I have spoken -my say." - -"Well, it is my turn to talk. I have been listening, and thinking, and -everything seems clear to me. You say that manioc was your food at -Yambuya, and that it made you sick and your men died?" - -"Yes." - -"And you say that the men of Bolobo when they come to Yambuya were in -good condition?" - -"Yes." - -"But that afterwards they became sick and died also?" - -"Yes." - -"What did the men of Bolobo eat when there?" - -"Chikwanga." - -"Well, what is chikwanga but bread made out of manioc?" - -"That is true." - -"Did you make it into bread?" - -"Some of us." - -"And some of you have lived. Now the truth of the matter is this. You -went out into the fields, and gathered the manioc tubers, the finest and -best. And you cut some leaves of manioc and brought them in, to bruise -them and make greens. This manioc is of the bitter kind. This bitterness -which you taste in it is poison. It would not only kill a few hundreds. -It would kill a whole race. - -"As you peeled the tubers, you cut raw slices and ate them, you pounded -your greens and as 'kitoweo,' you ate them also. These are two instances -in which you took poison. - -"Now the men from Bolobo had bought the manioc bread from the native -women. They had steeped the tubers in the river for four or five or six -days until the poison had all been washed away, they had then picked the -fibres out, dried the mush, and when dry they had made it into good -bread. That was what fed the Bolobo men, and fattened them. But the men -of Yambuya had scraped their manioc, and cut the roots for drying in the -sun, and as they did so they ate many a piece raw, and before the slices -were well dried they had eaten some, because they had no reserve of -food, and hunger forced them. Even those of you who put your roots to -soak in the water ate many a nice-looking bit, and you bruised and -cooked your greens to serve with your badly-prepared bread, and men -naturally sickened and died of the poison; and the men of Bolobo, when -they came up, did like the men of Yambuya, and by-and-by they fell ill -and died also. That is the reason why there are a hundred graves at -Yambuya, and that is what ails these sick men here. Not one of the white -men died, because they had rice, beans, biscuits and meat of fowl and -goat. If it were the climate that had killed your friends, the white men -less adapted for it would have died first, as they have done on the -lower Congo; but neither the climate nor the camp had anything to do -with your mortal sickness--the retching, and quaking of the limbs, the -vertigo and pain in the head, the weakening of the knees, and the -softening of the muscles, the final loathing, and indifference to -life--nothing else than the poison of the bitter manioc. - -"What you should have done was to have sent two or three daily out of -each mess to gather in the manioc in sufficient quantities and steep it -in the river, and have always plenty of prepared flour on hand to make -porridge or dumplings when hungry. Had you done so, I should have about -200 sleek and strong men ready for travel with me to Zanzibar. - -"Now follow what I say to you now. Eat as little of this manioc as you -can. Go, gather plenty of it, put it in the river to steep, and while it -is soaking eat your fill of bananas and plantains. In a day or two I -will move away from here. The sick shall be carried to a big island a -few hours distant, and there you will prepare twenty days' provisions of -flour. Those who cannot get sufficient bananas make gratings over the -fire, slice your manioc thin, and let them dry till morning; then pound, -and make into flour, and eat what is good for white man as well as -black. To-morrow, all of you come back again to me, and you will throw -away those filthy rags of clothing into the river, and I shall clothe -you anew. Meantime, rejoice, and thank God that we have come to save you -from the grave." - -We had brought with us a saving salve for all the despair and discontent -that wrought confusion in the minds of those who were herded within the -pen of Banalya. The influence of the beauty of the grass-land, its -wealth of grains and vegetables, and its stores of food had been -impressed so vividly upon the minds of our men of the advance column, -that the subject-matter of their revelations excited the dullest mind to -a lively hope that good times were come again. The men who had feasted -their eyes and glutted their appetites in that glorious land were never -tired of relating those details which have such a charm for those who -know from bitter experience what it is to hunger. As vivid as the word -pictures describing the happy region was the rapture of attention paid -to them by the poor emaciates who bore on their faces the unhealthy -stain of anaemia. To these it seemed an Eden filled with all manner of -pleasant things--abundance of food, grain and meat for strength, milk -and millet for nourishment. Slight regard was paid by the narrators to -the miserable months to be endured before the Eden could be reached, nor -did the eager listeners seem to care to sift the narratives. Their -imagination was so engrossed with the bright scenes that quite obscured -the stern realities to be borne before they could be attained. I -listened to the artless prattle of these adult children, sympathised -with their enthusiasm, and pitied them with all my soul. "Inshallah!" -said the boys from the Nyanza, with fervid emotion, "We shall feast on -beef once again, then you will laugh at the days you fed on manioc roots -and greens." - -Was it to be doubted that these seductive visions would lead the sickly -ones of Banalya from erring thoughts of desertion? Milk and honey, meat -and millet, with wages and bounties, were stronger attractions than the -dried fish of Stanley Falls, the cane of the Arab master, and a doubtful -future. - -The cloud that had weighed down the spirits of the men of the rear -column so long was now about to be uplifted. But first it was necessary -to remove every one from the immediate vicinity of Banalya, the scene of -the tragedy and nursery of vicious moods and mischiefs. The couriers -sent on the 17th of August with notice of our arrival to Tippu-Tib must -have reached him on the 24th of August. I had stated I should wait for -him ten days, and even that period was begrudged by the impatient Nyanza -men, who had heard with scorn of his calculating dilatoriness. But this -delay was not only needed to give another opportunity to Tippu-Tib, but -also to enable Mr. Jameson, who was reported to be at Stanley Falls, to -join us, and also to reorganise the Expedition, and re-arrange the -goods, which had become terribly deranged by the demands of Tippu-Tib, -that they should be reduced to suit mere boy carriers. - -[Sidenote: 1888. Aug. 21. Bungangeta.] - -After three days' halt at the camp we embarked all the sick and goods in -the canoes, and proceeded to Bungangeta Island, which we reached in -three hours. All the Manyuema carriers proceeded by land to a camp -opposite the island. During our stay at Banalya, Ugarrowwa had descended -the river from Wasp Rapids and occupied the larger island; we therefore -paddled to another higher up, which in some respects was more suitable -for us. The land column straggled into the camp opposite during three -successive days, but the rear guard, driving the stragglers, did not -reach the landing-place until the evening of the 24th, though the -distance was but six miles. Mr. Bonny did not reach until the 22nd. The -advance column in 1887 had covered the distance in four hours, but -meantime the Arabs had destroyed the large settlements, and the -marvellously thriving bush had buried ruins, fields, and plantations -under accumulated layers of leafy parasites. This short march, -protracted over three days, emphasised the necessity that existed for a -complete reorganization and thorough overhaul. We had also lost four -half-loads and two rifles through absconding Manyuema. On the whole it -was a capital test march, and proves, if any further proof was needed -beyond the log-book, the utter unruliness of this mob of slaves, which -had half-maddened the officers of the rear column. Without Tippu-Tib, or -one of his nephews, such a column could not be taken through the broad -extents of wildernesses ahead. At this rate of marching we should be 450 -days reaching the Albert Nyanza. Messrs. Jameson and Bonny had been -forty-three days going ninety miles. The difficulties which our officers -met on the road are but slightly glanced at in the log-book, but the -patience with which they had met them was never more manifest. We stayed -on our breezy island until the 31st August. Cloth, beads, cowries, and -brass rods had been distributed at the rate of five doti or twenty -yards, three pounds cowries, one pound beads, and fifteen brass rods per -man of the Nyanza force, and half as much to the men of the rear column, -equal in value to L760 to the Nyanza force, and L283 to the Banalya men. -They all deserved equally, but the latter had already a pretty fair kit, -whereas the Nyanza men had been clad in goat skins and strips of -bark-cloth. This "pocket-money" to each would enable our men to enjoy -perfect rest while Ugarrowwa's 600 people would only be too happy in -preparing flour, making manioc cakes and bread--as reserve -provisions--for a fair portion of cloth and other articles. - -Besides the work of restoring the baggage into order, which needed my -personal supervision, I had to write my reports to the Relief Committee, -to the London Royal, and Royal Scottish Geographical Societies, who were -contributories to the Relief Fund, to hold my palaver with the Manyuema -headmen, who one day vowed strictest fidelity, and the next burdened my -ear with complaints of their moody-mad men, losses by disease, -desertion, thefts of goods, menaces, &c., &c. But my answer to them all -was almost similar in terms to that used in my note to Tippu-Tib on the -17th: "If you decline the journey it is well, if you proceed with me it -is well also. Exercise your own free will. I do not need you, but if you -like to follow me I can make use of you, and will pay you according to -the number of loads you carry." Some of them understood this as -implying leave to proceed upon their own business--that of ravaging and -marauding--but three head men volunteered to accompany me. I engaged -them on the condition that if they followed me of their own will for -thirty days I would after that time trust them with loads. - -At the muster of the Expedition, August 29th, the roll was made out as -follows:-- - - Men. Carriers. - - Zanzibaris capable of carrying goods 165} - Madi carriers 57}= 283 - Manyuema carriers 61} - Soudanese and officers 21 - Sick, &c. (Zanzibaris) 45 - Somali 1 - Emin Pasha's soldiers 4 - Manyuema chiefs, women and followers 108 - Officers and servant 3 - ___________ - 465 283 - -List of loads to be carried on 2nd Journey to the Albert:-- - - Gunpowder 37 cases - Remington ammunition 83 " - Winchester 11 " - Maxim 9 " - Beads in sacks 19 " - Cowries 6 " - Brass wire coils 4 " - Cloth in bales 17 " - Percussion caps 4 " - Miscellaneous 40 " - ____ - 230 loads for 283 carriers. - -There were besides a few extra loads of miscellanea, which, so long as -all were carried in canoes, were useful and necessary, such as service -ammunition, native provisions, rope, &c., but the above formed the -indispensable baggage, when we should start overland. Though we had -fifty-three carriers in excess of loads, sickness, wounds, and death -would naturally, from the nature of the country and the present physical -condition of the rear column, decrease the number greatly, and the time -would arrive no doubt when the carriers would only be equal to the -loads, and the head men would have to relieve the sick porters. But -meantime a very fair chance of life was offered to the sick. For -something like sixty days they would be carried in canoes, and fed on -plantain flour and garden herbs. Goats and fowls were very scarce, for -Ugarrowwa had despoiled both banks. Also the porters would not be called -upon to exert their strength in the transport of any burdens. It only -remained for individuals to abstain from wild and reckless looting, and -seeking untimely fate by excess of zeal and imprudence, to assure us a -greater immunity from loss of life on this final journey to the Albert -Nyanza than we enjoyed on our first journey. - -[Sidenote: 1888 Aug. 30 Lower Mariri] - -During our stay out at Bungangeta Island Mr. Jameson's letter from -Stanley Falls arrived dated August 12th. Though the letter stated he -purposed to descend to Bangala, the messenger reported that he was -likely to proceed to Banana Point, but whether Banana Point or Bangala -mattered very little. When he descended from Stanley Falls he -deliberately severed himself from the Expedition, and no inducement -would tempt me to remain in the neighbourhood of Banalya. I had given my -word to the officers at Fort Bodo and to Emin Pasha and the Egyptians -that on December 22nd, or thereabouts, I should be in the neighbourhood -of Fort Bodo, and by January 16th, or near that date, on the Nyanza. It -was natural that we should grieve and deplore the loss of Mr. Jameson to -the Expedition, for the log-book entries pleaded powerfully for him, but -the fatality that attached itself to the rear column was not to deplete -our numbers also, nor should the garrison at Fort Bodo wonder and bewail -our long absence, and lose their wits in consequence of our breach of -promise. I wrote a letter, however, to Mr. Jameson, wherein I suggested -that if he could muster sixty men, and immediately follow our blazed -path, which was too broad to be mistaken, he might easily overtake our -large column marching in single file through the forest along a road, -bristling with obstacles, of sloughs, marshes, creeks and rivers. But, -as the reader is aware, though we were ignorant of it, Mr. Jameson had -been dead twelve days before my letter was written. - -On the 30th August I sent the entire flotilla of canoes--twenty-nine in -number, with twelve of Ugarrowwa's--to transport Mr. Bonny, 239 men and -their personal kit, provisions and cooking pots, five miles up river to -the landing-place above the Rendi River, with orders to the land column -to continue along our track to the next village, and the canoes having -discharged their passengers returned to the island. - -The next day--thirteen days having elapsed since Tippu-Tib had been -communicated with and no reply having been received--we departed from -Bungangeta Island on our final journey through the forest land, east. We -embarked 225 men, inclusive of canoe crews, feeble and sick, and 275 -full loads of between sixty and sixty-five pounds each of expeditionary -property, provisions of flour, private kits of the people, &c., and -despite a burning sun, which made extempore awnings very necessary, -pressed on up river for six hours until we arrived at our old camp below -Lower Mariri. On the 1st of September we reached the foot of Mariri -Rapids to find that Bonny's column had passed on to South Mupe. As the -unsophisticated Zanzibaris and Manyuema had quite overlooked the device -of portage opposite rapids, we had to despatch couriers to South Mupe -for men to assist in the transport of loads overland. - -On the 2nd we were engaged in poling the canoes through the dangerous -river, and in the operation two were capsized. The next day we poled -through the upper Mariri Rapids, and at noon we were all assembled at -South Mupe. - -[Sidenote: 1888. Sept. 4. Mupe.] - -Ugarrowwa had followed us up with his flotilla to collect a little more -ivory, and was encamped at Upper Mariri Village. I had finished my -hastily written letters to the Royal and Scottish Geographical -Societies, and availed myself of his visit to me to request him to see -that they were forwarded to England, but during our halt on the 4th -September at South Mupe he re-visited me with Salim bin Mohammed, the -nephew of Tippu-Tib, so often mentioned in connection with Major -Barttelot and Mr. Jameson. This man was of medium height and of slender -build, with good and regular Arab features, much marred by the -small-pox, and a face that reflected courage and audacity. - -Mr. Bonny's story of him and his malevolence to Major Barttelot -personally had led me to imagine that I had misjudged his character, but -at this interview I was confirmed in my previous impressions of him and -of Tippu-Tib. It was simply this, that both Arabs were quite capable of -shedding pagan blood without concern as to its guilt, but would not plan -out any cold-blooded conspiracy to murder Arabs or white men for a less -cause than revenge. Now as neither had cause to plot the murder of -Barttelot, or to conspire for the destruction of the rear column, there -ought absolutely to be no grounds for supposing that they had ever -imagined such mischiefs. I am not disposed to doubt that Tippu-Tib did -send or lead a contingent of carriers in person to the Aruwimi. His -excuses for his early return--on the plea that he could not find the -camp--may be told to the "Marines." They prove that he was lukewarm, -that he did not care sufficiently for the promised reward, and he ought -to have been dropped out of mind. When, however, the young officers -pleaded, and entreated, and coaxed him, both he and his nephew saw -clearly that the service so eagerly and earnestly desired was worth -money, and they raised their price; not out of ill-will, but out of an -uncontrollable desire to make more profit. The obligations Tippu was -under by contract, the gratitude due me for my assistance, were all -forgotten in the keen and sharpened appetite for money. The Major -possessed no resources to meet their demands, the worthy uncle and -nephew believed that both he and Jameson were rich, and the Expedition -to be under the patronage of wealthy men. "Why, then," say they both -with smug complacency, "if they want us so badly, let them pay. Stanley -has been good to us, that is true (see the Major's report), but a man -can't work for his friend for nothing--friendship is too dear at the -price"--and so they took another turn of the screw. It was done -effectively I admit. If Tippu-Tib appeared a trifle indifferent he knew -how to assume it, he knew he would be coaxed to good humour with gifts. -If Salim bin Mohammed appeared a little vexed, sour, or talked of -wounded susceptibilities, the Major opened his boxes and chose a gay -uniform jacket, or sent a forty-five guinea rifle, or a bale of cloth, -or a pair of ivory handled revolvers; if Salim bin Massoud his -brother-in-law talked a little big, his condescending kindness was -secured and stimulated by a rich bounty. - -Salim had come in person, he said, to give a verbal reply to my note of -the 17th, and he was ordered by his uncle to send couriers immediately -back to him with my words. - -The Arab's inability to comprehend the meaning of a legal contract, his -litigious and wavering spirit, his settled forgetfulness of words -spoken, his facility for breaking promises, and tampering with -agreements, his general inveracity, insincerity and dissimulation, as -well as his gift of pouring a stream of compliments amid a rain of -Mashallahs and Inshallahs, were never better displayed than at this -interview. Salim said that Tippu-Tib had sent him to ask what we should -do. This, after six letters, one in English and five in Arabic and -Swahili, on the 17th! - -"Now Salim," said I, "listen. If I thought you or Tippu-Tib were in any -way implicated in the murder of my friend, you would never leave this -camp alive. You have only seen hitherto one side of me. But I know and -believe from my soul that it was neither you nor Tippu-Tib who caused -the death of the Major. Therefore we can speak together as formerly -without anger. Tippu-Tib has not injured me beyond what the consul and -the Seyyid of Zanzibar can settle easily between them. Into their hands -I will commit the case. Tell your uncle that the passage of himself and -his ninety-six followers from Zanzibar to Stanley Falls must be paid, -that the loss of goods, rifles, powder, and ammunition, the loss of time -of this entire expedition will have to be made good. Tell him to do -what he likes, but in the end I shall win. He cannot hurt me, but I can -hurt him. Tell him to consider these things, and then say whether it -would not be better to prove at the last that he was sorry, and that in -future he would try to do better. If he would like to try, say, that if -he gathers his men, and overtakes me before I cross the expedition over -the Ituri in about fifty days hence, he shall have a chance of -retrieving my good opinion, and quashing all legal proceedings." - -"Very well, I hear all you say. I shall return to-night to Banalya; -Ugarrowwa will lend me canoes. I shall be with Tippu-Tib in eight days, -and on the 17th day I shall be back here, on your track. I shall -overhaul you before forty days." - -"Good, then," I said, "we had better utter our last farewells, for we -shall not meet again unless we meet at Zanzibar, about eighteen months -hence." - -"Why?" - -"Because neither you nor Tippu-Tib have the least intention of keeping -your word. Your business here has been to order the Manyuema who are -with me back to Stanley Falls. But it is perfectly immaterial. Take them -back, for once more I say, it is not in your power to hurt me." - -"Inshallah, Inshallah, let your heart rest in peace, we meet in less -than forty days, I swear to you." - -Poor Salim! he proceeded straight from my presence to the quarters of -the Manyuema headmen, and tempted them to return with him, which, -singular to relate, they obstinately declined to do. Salim waxing -wrathful, employed menaces, upon hearing which they came to me demanding -protection. - -Smiling, I said to Salim, "What you promised me just now is true; you -have seen me in less than forty days! But what is the meaning of this? -These are independent Manyuema chiefs, who were sent by Tippu-Tib to -follow us. They are obeying Tippu-Tib in doing so. Let them alone, -Salim, there will be less people for you to look after on the road, you -know, because you also will follow us. Don't you see? There, that will -do. Come and get into your canoe, otherwise we shall make two marches -before you leave here--and you have promised to catch me, you know, in -forty days." - -Our move on the 5th was to the large settlement of the Batundu, who -owned a flourishing crop of Indian corn, and a splendid plantation of -bananas, as yet untouched by any caravan. The rear column men required -good feeding to restore them to health, and though meat was -unprocurable, bananas and corn were not amiss. Here we halted two days, -during which we became aware of certain serious disadvantages resulting -from contact with the Manyuema. For these people had contracted the -small-pox, and had communicated it to the Madi carriers. Our Zanzibaris -were proof against this frightful disease, for we had taken the -precautions to vaccinate every member of the expedition on board the -_Madura_, in March, 1887. But on the Madis it began to develop with -alarming rapidity. Among the Manyuema were two insane women, or rather, -to be quite correct, two women subject to spasms of hysterical -exaltation, possessed by "devils," according to their chiefs, who -prevented sleep by their perpetual singing during the night. Probably -some such mania for singing at untimely hours was the cause of the -Major's death. If the poor Major had any ear for harmony, their -inharmonious and excited madhouse uproar might well have exasperated -him. - -The female sympathisers of these afflicted ones frequently broke out -into strange chorus with them, in the belief that this method had a -soothing effect, while any coercive measures for silencing them only -exaggerated their curious malady. Whatever influence the chorus may have -had on the nerves of the sufferers, on us, who were more tranquil, it -was most distressing. - -[Sidenote: 1888. Sept. 5. Batundu.] - -At this settlement two Zanzibaris, exceedingly useful, and reckoned -among the elect of the force, secretly left camp to make a raid on the -Batundu, and were ambushed and slain. This was the manner our most -enterprising men became lost to us. One of these two was the leader of -the van, and had acted in that capacity since we had departed from -Yambuya, June 1887. The sad occasion was an opportunity to impress on -the infatuated men for the hundredth time the absurd folly they were -guilty of in sacrificing their lives for a goat, in nobly working for -months to earn pay and honour by manliness and fidelity, and then bury -all in the entrails of cannibals. I had bestowed on them cattle, sheep, -goats, fowls, handfuls of silver, and a thousand pounds' worth of -clothes, but none, no, not one, had offered his throat to me to be cut. -But for the sake of a goat, at any time day or night the cannibal might -kill and then eat them. What monstrous ingratitude! They were instantly -penitential. Again they promised to me by Allah! that they would not do -so again, and, of course, in a day or two they would forget their -promise. It is their way. - -But any person who has travelled with the writer thus far will have -observed that almost every fatal accident hitherto in this Expedition -has been the consequence of a breach of promise. How to adhere to a -promise seems to me to be the most difficult of all tasks for every -999,999 men out of every million whom I meet. I confess that these black -people who broke their promises so wantonly were the bane of my life, -and the cause of continued mental disquietude, and that I condemned them -to their own hearing as supremest idiots. Indeed, I have been able to -drive from one to three hundred cattle a five hundred mile journey with -less trouble and anxiety than as many black men. If we had strung them -neck and neck along a lengthy slave-chain they would certainly have -suffered a little inconvenience, but then they themselves would be the -first to accuse us of cruelty. Not possessing chains, or even rope -enough, we had to rely on their promises that they would not break out -of camp into the bush on these mad individual enterprises, which -invariably resulted in death, but never a promise was kept longer than -two days. - -[Sidenote: 1888. Sept. 8. Elephant Playground.] - -"Elephant Playground" Camp was our next halting-place, and thence we -moved to Wasp Rapids. - -I learned from some of Ugarrowwa's men that inland from Bwamburi are the -Ababua tribe, among whom a different style of architecture prevails, the -huts being more commodious and comfortable, and plastered, and that to -the dwellings are attached wide verandahs. I was also told that their -blacksmith's art was carried to a high standard, and that on every blade -of spear, sword, knife, or arrow, considerable decorations were -lavished. Some of the tri-bladed and four-bladed knives were shown to -me, and they were recognised as characteristic of the Monbuttu and -Nyam-Nyam as described by Schweinfurth in his "Artes Africanae." - -On leaving Wasp Rapids, on the 12th, our canoes carried 198; the land -column under Mr. Bonny numbered 262. Being unladen, the trained men -arrived in camp before the advance canoe of the flotilla. The road was -now distinct and well trodden like ordinary African footpaths. - -[Sidenote: 1888. Sept. 12. Manginni.] - -[Illustration: SWORDS AND KNIVES. (_From a photograph._)] - -On reaching camp, however, the men, under pretence of cutting phrynia -leaves to roof their huts, vanished into the forest, eluding the guards, -and escaped along a path leading inland. Some of these managed to gain a -few fowls, a sheaf or two of sugar-cane, and an abundance of mature -plantains, but there were others who met only misfortune. Three Manyuema -were killed, and a Lado soldier of the irregulars of Emin Pasha received -a broad and sharp spear through his body, which, glancing past the -vertebrae, caused a ghastly wound, but fortunately uninjured a vital -part. The wounds were sewn up and bandages applied. The rear guard -reported that on the road five Manyuema, three Zanzibaris, and one -Soudanese were killed and eaten by ghoulish natives who had been hiding -while the column was passing, and that these men belonging to the -Banalya party had been resting near their hiding-place, when they were -suddenly set upon and despatched. It was only five days previously that -I had addressed the people publicly on the danger they were incurring -by these useless and wholly unnecessary raids. When food was really -required, which was once in five days, a foraging party would be sent to -cut plantains in such abundance that they sufficed for several days, and -twelve hours' drying over a fire rendered the provisions portable. Their -absolute inability to keep their promise, and the absolute impossibility -of compelling them to do so, had been the cause of twelve deaths, and -the thirteenth person was so seriously wounded that he was in imminent -danger of dying. We had the small-pox raging among the Manyuema and -Madis, and daily creating havoc among their numbers, and we had this -fatal want of discipline, which was utterly irremediable in the forest -region. The more vehemently I laboured to correct this disorder in the -mob, the more conscious I became that only a death penalty on the raider -would stop him; but then when the natives themselves executed infallibly -the sentence, there was no necessity for me to do it. - -Just above Manginni a canoe was capsized through pure carelessness. With -our best divers we proceeded to the scene and recovered every article -excepting a box of gunpowder and one of beads. The canoe was broken. - -Passing by Mugwye's, we reached Mambanga, and halted two days to prepare -food for the uninhabited wilderness that stretches thence to Engwedde. -At this camp Lakki or a "Hundred thousand," a veritable Jack Cade, loud, -noisy, blustering--the courier who in the midst of the midnight fray at -Bandeya shouted to his comrades: "These fellows want meat, and meat they -shall have, but it will be their own!"--heading a secret raiding party -made up of choice friends, and returned twenty-four hours later with a -curious and most singular wound from a poisoned arrow. Carbonate of -ammonium was injected into the wound, and he was saved, but Lakki was -firmly of the opinion that he was indebted to the green tobacco leaves -employed to cover it. - -[Sidenote: 1888. Sept. 14. Mambanga.] - -[Illustration: A SWIMMING RACE AFTER A BUSH ANTELOPE.] - -[Sidenote: 1888. Sept. 17. Ngula River.] - -While preparing our forest camps we were frequently startled at the -sudden rush of some small animal resembling a wild goat, which often -waited in his covert until almost trodden upon, and then bounded swiftly -away, running the gauntlet among hundreds of excited and hungry people, -who with gesture, voice, and action attempted to catch it. This time, -however, the animal took a flying leap over several canoes lying abreast -into the river, and dived under. In an instant there was a desperate -pursuit. Man after man leaped head foremost into the river, until its -face was darkly dotted with the heads of the frantic swimmers. This -mania for meat had approached madness. The poisoned arrow, the -razor-sharp spear, and the pot of the cannibal failed to deter them from -such raids; they dared all things, and in this instance an entire -company had leaped into the river to fight and struggle, and perhaps be -drowned, because there was a chance that a small animal that two men -would consider as insufficient for a full meal, might be obtained by one -man out of fifty. Five canoes were therefore ordered out to assist the -madmen. About half a mile below, despite the manoeuvres of the animal -which dived and swam with all the cunning of savage man, a young fellow -named Feruzi clutched it by the neck, and at the same time he was -clutched by half-a-dozen fellows, and all must assuredly have been -drowned had not the canoes arrived in time, and rescued the tired -swimmers. But, alas! for Feruzi, the bush antelope, for such it was, no -sooner was slaughtered than a savage rush was made on the meat, and he -received only a tiny morsel, which he thrust into his mouth for -security. - -During the next journey it was the river column that suffered. We were -near our old camp at the confluence of the Ngula and the Ituri. A man in -the advance canoe was shot in the back with a poisoned arrow. The wound -was treated instantly with an injection of carbonate of ammonia, and no -ill-effects followed. - -The day following, the river column again suffered, and this time the -case was as fatal as that caused by a bullet, and almost instantaneous. -Jabu, our cook, somewhat indisposed, was sitting in the stern of a canoe -while the crew was on shore about forty feet from him, hauling it past a -bit of rapids. A bold and crafty native, with fixed arrow before him, -steadily approached the vessel and shot a poisoned wooden dart, which -penetrated the arm near the shoulders and pierced the base of the -throat. The wound was a mere needle-hole puncture, but Jabu had barely -time to say "Mahommed!" when he fell back dead. - -Our next move was to Panga Falls. On the following day, 20th September, -we made a road past the Falls, hauled twenty-seven canoes to the -landing-place above, in view of Fort Island and then conveyed all goods -and baggage to the camp. - -[Sidenote: 1888. Sept. 21. Nejambi Rapids.] - -During our first journey through the neighbourhood we had lost no person -through native weapons, but since our first passage the natives had been -stimulated into aggressive efforts by the ease with which the reckless -improvident black when not controlled by a white man, could be -butchered. The deserters from the advance column had furnished the -wretches with several meals; the stupid, dense-headed Bakusu under -Ugarrowwa had supplied them with victims until the cannibal had -discovered that by his woodcraft he could creep upon the unsuspecting -men and drive his spear through them as easily as through so many goats. -We had lost fourteen men in thirty days. A silly Madi strayed into the -bush on the 20th, to collect fuel. A native confronted him and drove his -weapon clean through his body. On the 21st a Manyuema woman, fifty paces -from our camp, was pierced with a poisoned arrow, and was dead before we -could reach her. And, to complete the casualties, a Zanzibari of the -rear column succumbed to manioc poison. - -Nejambi Rapids was our next camp. As soon as we had arrived and stacked -goods, about a hundred men, driven by hunger, started in a body to -forage for plantains. We, who remained in camp, had our hands full of -work. The twenty-seven canoes required to be hauled, on the next day, -past the rapids, and a road had to be cleared, and rattan cables were -wanted for each vessel for hauling. - -By sunset several of the foragers had returned well rewarded for their -enterprise, but many were belated, and, till long past midnight, guns -were fired as signals, and the great ivory horns sounded loud blasts -which travelled through the glades with continued rolling echoes. About -nine p.m., tidings came that two Zanzibaris had been killed by poisoned -arrows. An hour later a dead body, that of Ferajji, the humorous -head-man, who was cross-examined at Banalya, was brought in. On -inspection, the corpse was found studded with beads of perspiration. The -arrow wound was a mere pin-hole puncture in upper left arm, but it had -proved quite enough. It was said that he walked about an hour after -being struck, towards camp, but then cried out for a little rest, as he -was faint. During the ten minutes' rest he died. - -Young Hussein bin Juma, of a respectable parentage at Zanzibar, was soon -after carried in, and brought to me, not dead, as reported, but in an -extremely low condition. I discovered that the arrow had pierced the -outer flesh of the right arm, and had entered an inch above the third -rib. The arrow was hastily withdrawn and shown to me. It was smeared -over with a dark substance like thick coal tar, and emitted a most -peculiar odour. The arm was not swollen, but the body wound had caused a -considerable tumour, soft to the touch. He said that he had felt -exceedingly faint at one time, and that he perspired greatly, but had -felt great relief after retching. At present he was languid, and -suffered from thirst. After washing well both wounds, five grains of -carbonate ammonia were injected into each wound, and a good dose of -strong medical brandy was administered. - -In ten days young Hussein was quite restored, and went about performing -his accustomed duties. - -A squad of men returned long after midnight with fowls, plantains, and -fortunately without accident. But early in the morning, Tam, a native of -Johanna, raving from small-pox, threw himself into the rapids and was -drowned. He had declined being vaccinated. - -After hauling our canoes overland three-quarters of a mile, we halted a -day above the rapids to prepare five days' rations of flour. The strain -of hauling the rotten craft had reduced our flotilla to twenty-two -vessels. - -Engwedde's long series of rapids was passed without accident, and thence -we moved to Avisibba, and a good march brought us to the camp below -Mabengu Rapids, where we had waited so long for the lost column under -Jephson in August, 1887. - -The next day was a halt, and a strong foraging party was sent over to -Itiri to collect food. In the afternoon it returned, bringing several -days' supply of plantains with a few goats and fowls, and for the first -time we were able to make soup and distribute meat to the Banalya sick. -It was reported to me that the Manyuema had carved a woman most -butcherly to allay their strong craving for meat, but the headman -assured me that it was utterly false, and I am inclined to believe him, -for the Zanzibaris, if they had really detected such a monstrous habit -in people who might at any time contaminate their cooking-pots, would -have insisted on making a severe example. - -[Sidenote: 1888. Sept. 30. Avugadu.] - -On the last day of September we moved up to above upper rapids of -Avugadu, at which camp we discovered wild oranges. There were also wild -mango-trees, if we may trust the flowering and foliage. Red figs of a -sweetish flavour were very common, but as their shrunk pedicels -possessed no saccharine secretions they were uneatable. - -A native woman was delivered of a child on the road. She was seen -standing over the tiny atom. The Zanzibaris as they came up crowded -around the unusual sight, and one said, "throw the thing into the river -out of the way." "But why should you do that when the infant is alive?" -asked another. "Why don't you see that it is white? it must be some -terrible disease I am sure." "Oh Ignorance, how many evils transpire -under thy dark shade." "Father, forgive them, for they know not what -they do," rushed to my mind, as I looked in wonder at the speakers, who, -utterly unconscious that they were committing murder, would have -extinguished the little spark of life there and then. - -Our anxieties at this period were mainly on the account of those -suffering from ulcers. There was one wise little boy of about thirteen -called Soudi, who formerly attended on the Major. An injury he had -received had caused about four inches of the leg bone to be exposed. We -had also fifteen cases of small-pox, who mingled in the freest manner -possible with our Zanzibaris, and only the suicide, Tam, had thus far -been attacked. - -[Sidenote: 1888. Oct. 1. Avejeli.] - -On arriving at Avejeli, opposite the Nepoko, the wife of the Manyuema -drummer, a prepossessing lassie, went out to the gardens close by to -collect herbs. A band of natives were in hiding, and they pierced her -with arrows. Seven of them quivered in her body. Her screams attracted -attention, and she was hastily brought in, but even as we were about to -inject the ammonium she rolled over, raised her arms, and embraced her -young husband in the most touching manner, gave a long sigh, and died. -"Oh, ye travellers! who belong to that clique who say the Africans know -neither love, affection, nor jealousy. What would you have said to this -pitiful death-scene?" We had also a Manyuema woman who was a hideous -object, a mass of loathsome pustules, emitting an almost unbearable -stench, but her husband tended and served her with a surpassing and -devoted tenderness. Death, death everywhere, and on every day, and in -every shape; but love, supreme love stood like a guardian angel to make -death beautiful! Poor unlettered, meek creatures, the humblest of -humanity, yet here unseen, and unknown of those who sing of noble -sacrifices, of constancy and devotion, proving your brotherhood with us -amid the sternest realities by lulling your loved ones to rest with the -choicest flowers of love! - -On the 2nd of October we moved up to Little Rapids below the confluence -of the Ngaiyu with the Ituri, where a tornado visited us, churned up the -generally waveless river into careering rollers, that stretched from -bank to bank, with a power and force that disturbed the very bed and -muddied the stream until it resembled a wild strip of shallow -wind-driven sea, beating on an alluvial shore. Our canoes were dashed -one against the other until they promised to become matchwood, while the -great forest groaned and roared with the agony of the strife, but in -half-an-hour the river had resumed its placid and tender face, and the -forest stood still as though petrified. - -During a halt on the 3rd, Mr. Jameson's box, containing various trifles -belonging to an industrial naturalist, was opened. Books, diaries, and -such articles as were worth preserving, were sealed up for transport -athwart the continent; the others, unnecessary to a person in -civilization, were discarded. - -[Sidenote: 1888. Oct. 3. Bavikai.] - -Mr. Bonny was despatched with twenty-eight men past the Ngaiyu, to -verify my hope that a landing-place I had observed in passing and -repassing would lead to the discovery of a road by which I could avoid -the devastated wilderness that stretched for nearly 200 miles along the -south bank between the Basopo Rapids and Ibwiri. Mr. Bonny, after -returning, was pleased to express his surprise at the marvellous -dexterity and agility of the scouts, who sprang with the lightness of -springing bush antelopes over every kind of impediment, and who in -almost every thousand paces gained five hundred ahead of him. A mile and -a half from the landing-place on the north bank he had found a fine -village surrounded by rich groves of plantains. To this village, called -Bavikai, we proceeded more in the hope that we could utilize some road -going north-easterly, whence, after sixty miles or so, we could strike -on a bee-line course for the Albert. - -As the men were being transported across the river opposite the -landing-place of the Bavikai on the 4th, I saw a dozen Madis in a -terrible condition from the ravages of the small-pox, and crowding them, -until they jostled them in admirable unconcern, were some two dozen of -the tribe as yet unaffected by the disease. This little fact put me on a -line of reflections which, had a first-class shorthand writer been near, -might have been of value to other thoughtless persons. Never did -ignorance appear to me so foolish. Its utter unsuspectingness was -pitiful. Over these human animals I saw the shadow of Death, in the act -to strike. But I said to myself, I see the terrible shade over them -ready to smite them with the disease which will make them a horror, and -finally kill them. When I fall also it will probably be from some -momentary thoughtlessness, when I shall either be too absorbed, or too -confident to observe the dark shadow impending over me. However, _Mambu -Kwa Mungu_, neither they nor I can avoid our fate. - -Among my notes on the 5th of October I find a few remarks about Malaria. - -While we have travelled through the forest region we have suffered less -from African fevers, than we did in the open country between Mataddi and -Stanley Pool. - -A long halt in the forest clearings soon reminds us that we are not yet -so acclimated as to utterly escape the effects of malaria. But when -within the inclosed woods our agues are of a very mild form, soon -extinguished by a timely dose of quinine. - -On the plateau of Kavalli and Undussuma, Messrs. Jephson, Parke, and -myself were successively prostrated by fever, and the average level of -the land was over 4500 feet above the sea. - -On descending to the Nyanza plain, 2500 feet lower, we were again laid -up with fierce attacks. - -At Banana Point, which is at sea-level, ague is only too common. - -At Boma, 80 feet higher, the ague is more common still. - -At Vivi, there were more cases than elsewhere, and the station was about -250 feet higher than Boma, and not a swamp was near it. - -At Stanley Pool, about 1100 feet above sea level, fever of a pernicious -form was prevalent. - -While ascending the Congo with the wind astern we were unusually -exempted from ague. - -But descending the Upper Congo, facing the wind, we were smitten with -most severe forms of it. - -While ascending the Aruwimi we seldom thought of African fever, but -descending it in canoes, meeting the wind currents, and carried towards -it by river-flow and paddle, we were speedily made aware that -acclimatisation is slow. - -Therefore it is proved that from 0 to 5000 feet above the sea there is -no immunity from fever and ague, that over forty miles of lake water -between a camp and the other shore are no positive protection; that a -thousand miles of river course may serve as a flue to convey malaria in -a concentrated form; that if there is a thick screen of primeval forest, -or a grove of plantains between the dwelling-place and a large clearing -or open country there is only danger of the local malaria around the -dwelling, which might be rendered harmless by the slightest attention to -the system; but in the open country neither a house nor a tent are -sufficient protection, since the air enters by the doors of the house, -and under the flaps, and through the ventilators to poison the inmates. - -Hence we may infer that trees, tall shrubbery, a high wall or close -screen interposed between the dwelling-place and the wind currents will -mitigate their malarial influence, and the inmate will only be -subjected to local exhalations. - -Emin Pasha informed me that he always took a mosquito curtain with him, -as he believed that it was an excellent protector against miasmatic -exhalations of the night. - -Question, might not a respirator attached to a veil, or face screen of -muslin, assist in mitigating malarious effects when the traveller finds -himself in open regions? - -Three companies of forty men each were sent in three different -directions to follow the tracks leading from Bavikai. The first soon got -entangled in the thick woods bordering the Ngaiyu, and had an engagement -with the natives of Bavikai, who were temporarily encamped in the dark -recesses, the second followed a path that ran E. by N., and soon met a -large force of natives coming from three different villages. One of our -men was wounded in the head with a poisoned arrow. The third was -perplexed by a network of paths, and tried several of them, but all -ended in plantations of plantains and thin bush of late growth, and in -the search these men encountered savages well armed and prepared with -poisoned darts. We were therefore compelled to recross the river to the -south bank, to try again higher up, to avoid the trying labour of -tunnelling through the forest. - -[Sidenote: 1888. Oct. 10. Hippo Broads.] - -On the 10th the Expedition reached Hippo Broads. On this date we saw a -cloud of moths sailing up river, which reached from the water's face to -the topmost height of the forest, say 180 feet, so dense, that before it -overtook us we thought that it was a fog, or, as was scarcely possible, -a thick fall of lavender-coloured snow. The rate of flight was about -three knots an hour. In the dead calm morning air they maintained an -even flight, but the slightest breeze from the banks whirled them -confusedly about, like light snow particles on a gusty day. Every now -and then the countless close packed myriads met a cloud of moth migrants -from above river, and the sunbeams glinting and shining on their -transparent wing caused them to resemble fire sparks. - -Bits of turfy green, cropped close by hippo, which favours this fine -reach of river, distinguish the banks near this locality. Many oil -palms, some raphia, arums, phrynia, amoma, pepper bushes, &c., denote a -very ancient site of a human settlement. My tent was pitched under a -small branching fig-tree, which protected it from a glowing Equatorial -sun, but the heat reflected from the river's face mounted up to 87 deg. in -the shade at 3 P.M. This unusual heat preceded a tempest, with -lightning, startling thunder, and deluging rain. - -At the Bafaido Cataract, a woman who fell into our hands informed us -that the Medze tribe lived on the other side of the Ngaiyu River and -that the Babandi were found on its left bank. - -Near Avaiyabu, a lurking native who had been standing behind a leafy -screen of parasites depending from the branches of a big tree, suddenly -stepped into the path, snatched a little girl belonging to the Manyuema, -and drove his double-edged dagger from breast to back, and holding his -weapon above his head uttered a furious cry, which might well have been -"Death to the invader!" - -And at the next camp, Avamberri landing-place, Soudi the wise little boy -who had served the Major, while being carried past the rapids to the -canoes waiting above, died on the carriers' shoulders. The enamel -covering of the leg-bone had been all destroyed by the virulent ulcer. -Since we had left Bungangeta Island, Soudi had been carried and nursed, -but want of exercise, and exposure to sun in the canoe and constant rain -had weakened his digestion. His constitution had been originally healthy -and sound. The little fellow had borne his sufferings bravely, but the -reserve medicines were at Bangala, and we could do nothing for him. - -On the 18th of October we were at Amiri Rapids, and the second Zanzibari -showed symptoms of small-pox. So far we had been remarkably free of the -disease, despite the fact that there were from ten to twenty sufferers -daily in the camp since arriving at the settlement of the Batundu. Out -of 620 Zanzibaris who were ordered to be vaccinated, some few -constitutions might possibly have resisted the vaccine; but no more -decided proof of the benefits resulting to humanity could be obtained -from Jenner's discovery than were furnished by our Expedition. Among the -Manyuema, Madis, and native followers, the epidemic had taken deadly -hold, and many a victim had already been tossed into the river weighted -with rocks. For this was also a strange necessity we had to resort to, -to avoid subsequent exhumation by the natives whom we discovered to be -following our tracks for the purpose of feeding on the dead. - -One of the Zanzibari headmen while acting as coxswain of a canoe was so -stung by wasps at this camp that he despaired of his life, and insisted -that his will should be written, wherein he made his brother, then with -us, his sole legatee. I conformed to his wish in a clerkly fashion that -pleased him well, but I also administered a ten-grain dose of carbonate -of ammonium hypodermically, and told him he should reach Zanzibar in -spite of the vicious wasps who had so punished him. The next day he was -a new man, and boasted that the white man's medicines could cure -everything except death. - -[Sidenote: 1888. Oct. 18. Amiri Falls.] - -After moving to the top of Amiri Rapids, a series of misfortunes met us. -Some few of the flighty-headed untrained men of the rear-column rushed -off to the plantain plantations without a leader or authority, and -conducted themselves like children. The natives surrounded them and -punished them, wounding three. Two others, one suffering from a -palpitation of the heart, and another feeble youth, had left the trail -to hide from the rear-guard. - -Up to date, we had lost since 1st of September, nine Zanzibaris killed, -one from suicide, one from ulcers, and two were missing. Of the Manyuema -contingent, fifteen had been killed or had died from small pox, and -eighteen Madis had either been killed or had perished from the pest. -Total loss, forty-four deaths within forty-nine days. - -[Sidenote: 1888. Oct. 19. - -Amiri Falls.] - -From Amiri Falls to Avatiko was a seven-days' march through a -depopulated country, through a land wholly empty of food. Beyond Avatiko -by the new route I proposed to follow, two days would probably transpire -before another supply of food could be obtained. This was my estimate, -at which with the Zanzibaris of the advance column who were now trained -in forest life, we might perform these journeys. If we could obtain no -food at Avatiko, then our lot would be hard indeed. Up to within a day's -march of Avatiko, we could employ the canoes in carrying an extra supply -of provisions. It would not be impossible to take twenty days' rations -of flour per capita; but a leader to perform such a work must be obeyed. -He performs his duties by enjoining on all his followers to remember his -words, to take heed of his advice, and do their utmost to conform to his -instructions. - -On the 20th at dawn, 160 rifles were despatched to the plantations five -miles inland from Amiri Falls. The men were told how many days Avatiko -was distant, and that they should employ one day in collecting food, in -peeling, slicing and drying their plantains in the plantation, so that -they could bring from sixty to seventy pounds of food, which when -distributed would supply each person with over twenty pounds, equal to -ten days' rations. Experience of them proved to me that the enterprising -would carry sufficient to satisfy them with fifteen days' unstinted -food; others, again, despite the warning of death rung in their ears, -would not carry more than would suffice them for four days. - -On the afternoon of the 21st I was gratified to see that the people had -been very successful. How many had followed my advice it was impossible -to state. The messes had sent half their numbers to gather the food, and -every man had to contribute two handfuls for the officers and sick. It -only remained now for the chiefs of the messes to be economical of the -food, and the dreaded wilderness might be safely crossed. - - - - -CHAPTER XXII. - -ARRIVAL AT FORT BODO. - - Ugarrowwa's old station once more--March to Bunda--We cross the - Ituri River--Note written by me opposite the mouth of the Lenda - River--We reach the Avatiko plantations--Mr. Bonny measures a - pigmy--History and dress of the pigmies--A conversation by - gesture--The pigmy's wife--Monkeys and other animals in the - forest--The clearing of Andaki--Our tattered clothes--The Ihuru - River--Scarcity of food; Amani's meals--Uledi searches for - food--Missing provisions--We reach Kilonga-Longa's village - again--More deaths--The forest improves for travelling--Skirmish - near Andikumu--Story of the pigmies and the box of ammunition--We - pass Kakwa Hill--Defeat of a caravan--The last of the Somalis--A - heavy shower of rain--Welcome food discovery at Indemau--We bridge - the Dui River--A rough muster of the people--A stray goat at our - Ngwetza camp--Further capture of dwarfs--We send back to Ngwetza - for plantains--Loss of my boy Saburi in the forest--We wonder what - has become of the Ngwetza party--My boy Saburi turns up--Starvation - Camp--We go in search of the absentees, and meet them in the - forest--The Ihuru River--And subsequent arrival at Fort Bodo. - - -[Sidenote: 1888. Oct. 23. Ugarrowwa's Station.] - -The Expedition reached Ugarrowwa's old station on the 23rd of October, -and slept within its deserted huts. In the court of the great house of -the chief of the raiders, a crop of rice had grown up, but the birds had -picked every grain. Over one hundred people found comfortable shelter in -the spacious passages; and had supplies been procurable within a -respectable distance, it would not have ill-suited us for a halt of a -week; but it was too risky altogether to consume our rations because of -the comfort of shelter. It was the centre of a great desolate area, -which we were bound by fear of famine to travel through with the utmost -speed. - -[Sidenote: 1888. Oct. 24. Bunda.] - -The following day we marched to Bunda. The river column received -attention from Ugarrowwa's old subjects, and the Manyuema sprang -overboard to avoid the arrows; but the Zanzibaris from the canoe behind -leaped ashore, and by a flank attack assisted us to save the bewildered -Manyuema, who in their careless happy attitudes in the canoe had offered -such tempting targets for the natives. - -The Ituri River was now in full flood, for the rains fell daily in -copious tropical showers. The streams and creeks flowing into the Ituri -from the right bank were deep, which caused the land party excessive -worry and distress. No sooner had they crossed one creek up to the -waist, than in a few moments another of equal or greater depth had to be -waded through. They were perpetually wringing their clothes, and -declaiming against the vexatious interruptions. Across the mouths of -deeper tributaries the canoes were aligned, and served as floating -bridges for the party to cross, while each man was the subject of some -jest at his bedraggled appearance. The foremost men were sure to have -some wet mud or soapy clay on the boards; the garments of others would -be dripping with water, and presently fall after fall would testify to -the exceeding slipperiness of the bridge, and would be hailed with -uproarious chaff and fun. On this day thirty-two streams were crossed by -the land party. - -On the 25th, we moved up to a camp, opposite the mouth of the Lenda -River. We were making progress, but I came across the following note -written that evening. It will be seen later that such congratulations -could only have been the outcome of a feeling of temporary pleasure that -the day was not far distant when we should see the end to our harder -labours. - -[Sidenote: 1888. Oct. 25. Lenda River.] - -"I desire to render most hearty thanks that our laborious travels -through the forest are drawing to a close. We are about 160 miles -to-night from the grass-land; but we shall reduce this figure quickly -enough, I hope. Meantime we live in anticipation. We bear the rainy -season without a murmur, for after the rain the harvest will be ready -for us in the grass-land. We do not curse the mud and reek of this humid -land now, though we crossed thirty-two streams yesterday, and the mud -banks and flats were sorely trying to the patience. We have a number of -minor pleasures in store. It will be a great relief to be delivered from -the invasions of the red ants, and to be perfectly secure from their -assaults by day and by night. When we have finally dried the soles of -our boots and wiped the mildew of the forest off their tops, our dreams -will be undisturbed by one enemy at least. While we smart under the -bites of the ferocious small bees, and start at the sting of small ants, -and writhe under the venom of a hornet, or groan by reason of the sting -of a fiendish wasp, or flap away the ever-intrusive butterfly, or dash -aside the hurtful tiger slug, or stamp with nervous haste on the -advancing greenish centipede, we remind ourselves that these miseries -will not be for many days now. A little more patience and then merrier -times. We have had four goats since August 17th for meat. We have -subsisted mainly on roast plantains. They have served to maintain the -soul attached to the body. We are grateful even for this, though our -strength is not to be boasted of. We complacently think of the beef, and -veal, and mutton diet ahead, garnished with a variety of edibles such as -the sweet potato and beans, and millet flour for porridge with milk, and -sesamum oil for cooking. Relief also from the constant suspicion, -provoked by an animal instinct, that a savage with a sheaf of poisoned -arrows is lurking within a few feet of one will be something to be -grateful for. The ceaseless anxiety, the tension of watchfulness, to -provide food, and guard the people from the dangers that meet their -frolics, will be relaxed; and I shall be glad to be able to think better -of the world and its inhabitants than the doubtful love I entertain for -mankind in the forest." - -[Sidenote: 1888. Oct. 27. - -Lenda - -River.] - -We found our camp at Umeni on the 26th, but there were only two small -bunches of miniature plantains discovered here, and a raging tornado -roared like a legion of demons through the forest, and shook the ancient -tree giants to their base, while the dark Ituri was so beswept that it -became pallid under the whistling, screaming fury of the squalls. - -On the next day we rowed up to below Big Cataract, unloaded the goods, -left the canoes in the bushes, shouldered our loads, and marched away -after half an hour's halt only, for five miles inland. We had left the -Ituri navigation for the last time. - -We entered the Avatiko plantations after three hours' march on the 28th, -and just while the majority of the people was perilously near -starvation. They spread over the plantations with the eagerness of -famished wolves after prey. Here we stayed two days in foraging and -preparing a supply of food. - -We had not been long at Avatiko before a couple of pigmies were brought -to me. What relation the pair were to one another is not known. The man -was young, probably twenty-one. Mr. Bonny conscientiously measured him, -and I recorded the notes. - -Height, 4 ft.; round head, 20-1/4 in.; from chin to back top of head, 24-1/4 -in.; round chest, 25-1/2 in.; round abdomen, 27-3/4 in.; round hips, 22-1/2 in.; -round wrist, 4-1/4 in.; round muscle of left arm, 7-1/2 in.; round ankle, 7 -in.; round calf of leg, 7-3/4 in.; length of index finger, 2 in.; length of -right hand, 4 in.; length of foot, 6-1/4 in.; length of leg, 22 in.; length -of back, 18-1/2 in.; arm to tip of finger, 19-3/4 in. - -This was the first full-grown man we had seen. His colour was coppery, -the fell over the body was almost furry, being nearly half an inch in -length. His head-dress was a bonnet of a priestly form, decorated with a -bunch of parrot feathers; it was either a gift or had been stolen. A -broad strip of bark cloth covered his nakedness. His hands were very -delicate, and attracted attention by their unwashed appearance. He had -evidently been employed in peeling plantains. - -[Sidenote: 1888. - -Oct. 28. - -Avatiko.] - -Not one London editor could guess the feelings with which I regarded -this mannikin from the solitudes of the vast central African forest. To -me he was far more venerable than the Memnonium of Thebes. That little -body of his represented the oldest types of primeval man, descended from -the outcasts of the earliest ages, the Ishmaels of the primitive race, -for ever shunning the haunts of the workers, deprived of the joy and -delight of the home hearth, eternally exiled by their vice, to live the -life of human beasts in morass and fen and jungle wild. Think of it! -Twenty-six centuries ago his ancestors captured the five young -Nassamonian explorers, and made merry with them at their villages on the -banks of the Niger. Even as long as forty centuries ago they were known -as pigmies, and the famous battle between them and the storks was -rendered into song. On every map since Hekataeus' time, 500 years B.C., -they have been located in the region of the Mountains of the Moon. When -Mesu led the children of Jacob out of Goshen, they reigned over Darkest -Africa undisputed lords; they are there yet, while countless dynasties -of Egypt and Assyria, Persia, Greece and Rome, have flourished for -comparatively brief periods, and expired. And these little people have -roamed far and wide during the elapsed centuries. From the Niger banks, -with successive waves of larger migrants, they have come hither to pitch -their leafy huts in the unknown recesses of the forest. Their kinsmen -are known as Bushmen in Cape Colony, as Watwa in the basin of the -Lulungu, as Akka in Monbuttu, as Balia by the Mabode, as Wambutti in the -Ihuru basin, and as Batwa under the shadows of the Lunae Montes. - -[Illustration: DWARF CAPTIVE AT AVATIKO.] - -As the gigantic Madis, and tall Soudanese, and tallest Zanzibaris -towered above the little man, it was delightful to observe the thoughts -within him express themselves with lightning rapidity on his face. The -wonderment that filled him, the quick shifting and chilling fears as to -his fate, the anxious doubts that possessed him, the hopes that sprang -up as he noted humour on the faces, the momentary shades of anxiety, -curiosity to know whence these human monsters had come from, what they -would do with him eventually; would they kill him, how? by roasting him -alive, or plunging him screaming into a vat-like cooking pot? Ach Gott! -I hope not, and a slight shake of the head, with a more pallid colour on -the lips and a nervous twitch showed what distress he was in. He would -do anything to deserve the favour of these big men, just as the young -Nassamonians were willing to do 2600 years ago, when his pigmy -forefathers pointed their fingers and jabbered at them in the old -Nigritian village. So we took him to sit by us, and stroked him on the -back, gave him some roast bananas to put into that distended aldermanic -abdomen of his, and the pigmy smiled his gratitude. What a cunning rogue -he was! how quick-witted! He spoke so eloquently by gesture that he was -understood by the dullest of us. - -"How far is it to the next village where we can procure food?" - -He placed the side of his right hand across the left wrist. (More than -two days' march.) - -"In what direction?" - -He pointed east. - -"How far is it to the Ihuru?" - -"Oh!" He brought his right hand across his elbow joint--that is double -the distance, four days. - -"Is there any food north?" - -He shook his head. - -"Is there any west or north-west?" - -He shook his head, and made a motion with his hand as though he were -brushing a heap of sand away. - -"Why?" - -He made the motion with his two hands as though he were holding a gun, -and said "Doooo!" - -"To be sure the Manyuema have destroyed everything." - -"Are there any 'Doooo' in the neighbourhood, now?" - -He looked up and smiled with a gush as artful as a London coquette, as -if to say, "You know best! Oh! naughty man, why do you chaff me?" - -"Will you show us the road to the village where we can get food?" - -He nodded his head rapidly, patted his full-moon belly, which meant, -"Yes, for there I shall get a full meal; for here"--he smiled -disdainfully as he pressed his thumb nail on the first joint of his left -index finger--"are plantains only so big, but there they are as big as -this," and he clasped the calf of his leg with two hands. - -"Oh, Paradise!" cried the men, "bananas as big as a man's leg!" The -pigmy had contrived to ingratiate himself into every man's affection. My -authority was gone until the story of the monstrous bananas would be -disproved. Some of them looked as if they would embrace him, and his -face mimicked artless innocence, though he knew perfectly well that, in -their opinion, he was only a little lower than an angel. - -And all this time, the coppery face of the nut-brown little maid was -eloquent with sympathy in the emotions of the male pigmy. Her eyes -flashed joy, a subtle spirit glided over her features with the -transition of lightning. There were the same tricks of by-play; the same -doubts, the same hopes, the same curiosity, the same chilling fear, was -felt by the impressionable soul as she divined what feelings moved her -kinsman. She was as plump as a thanksgiving turkey or a Christmas goose; -her breasts glistened with the sheen of old ivory, and as she stood with -clasped hands drooping below--though her body was nude--she was the very -picture of young modesty. - -The pair were undoubtedly man and woman. In him was a mimicked dignity, -as of Adam; in her the womanliness of a miniature Eve. Though their -souls were secreted under abnormally thick folds of animalism, and the -finer feelings inert and torpid through disuse, they were there for all -that. And they suited the wild Eden of Avatiko well enough. - -[Sidenote: 1888. - -Oct. 28. - -Forest.] - -Burdened with fresh supplies of dried plantains, and guided by the -pigmies, we set out from the abandoned grove of Avatiko E.N.E., crossed -the clear stream of Ngoki at noon, and at 3 P.M. were encamped by the -brook Epeni. We observed numerous traces of the dwarfs in the wilds -which we had traversed, in temporary camps, in the crimson skins of the -amoma, which they had flung away after eating the acid fruit, in the -cracked shells of nuts, in broken twigs that served as guides to the -initiated in their mysteries of woodcraft, in bow-traps by the wayside, -in the game-pits sunk here and there at the crossings of game-tracks. -The land appeared more romantic than anything we had seen. We had wound -around wild amphitheatral basins, foliage rising in terraces one above -another, painted in different shades of green, and variegated with -masses of crimson flowers, and glistening russet, and the snowdrop -flowerets of wild mangoes, or the creamy silk floss of the bombax, and -as we looked under a layer of foliage that drooped heavily above us, we -saw the sunken basin below, an impervious mass of leafage grouped crown -to crown like heaped hills of soft satin cushions, promising luxurious -rest. Now and then troops of monkeys bounded with prodigious leaps -through the branches, others swinging by long tails a hundred feet above -our heads, and with marvellous agility hurling their tiny bodies through -the air across yawning chasms, and catching an opposite branch, resting -for an instant to take a last survey of our line before burying -themselves out of sight in the leafy depths. Ibises screamed to their -mates to hurry up to view the column of strangers, and touracos argued -with one another with all the guttural harshness of a group of Egyptian -fellahs, plantain-eaters, sunbirds, grey parrots, green parroquets, and -a few white-collared eagles either darted by or sailed across the leafy -gulf, or sat drowsily perched in the haze upon aspiring branches. There -was an odour of musk, a fragrance of flowers, perfume of lilies mixed -with the acrid scent of tusky boars in the air; there were heaps of -elephant refuse, the droppings of bush antelopes, the pungent dung of -civets, and simians along the tracks, and we were never long away from -the sound of rushing rivulets or falling cascades, sunlight streamed in -slanting silver lines and shone over the undergrowth and the thick crops -of phrynia, arum, and amoma, until their damp leaves glistened, and the -dewdrops were brilliant with light. - -And the next day our march underneath the eternal shades was through -just such a land, and on the morning of the 1st of November we emerged -into the clearing of Andaki, to refresh our souls with the promised -fruit of its groves. The plantains were not very large, but they were -mature and full, and before an hour had elapsed, the wooden grates were -up, and the fruit lay in heaps of slices on the bars over the fire. The -word was passed that the first and second day of the month should be -employed in preparing as much provisions as every man could carry. We -were in N. Lat. 1 deg. 16-1/2'. Kilonga-Longa's station was in 1 deg. 6', and Fort -Bodo in 1 deg. 20', so that our course was good. - -[Sidenote: 1888. - -Nov. 2. - -Audaki.] - -On the second some scouts hunting up the various tracks extending -eastward came across two women, one of whom said she knew of a great -village to the north where there was food. Another said that Andari lay -E.N.E., four days' march, where there was such a stock of food that -Andaki was a mere handful compared with it. - -Soon after leaving Andaki, and crossing a broad ridge, we came upon a -vast abandoned clearing. Probably a year had elapsed since the people -had fled, and their settlements had been consumed with fire, for the -banana plants were choked by the voracious undergrowth and wild plants, -and the elephants had trampled through and through, and sported for -months among the wasted groves, and over the crushed Musa plants, -through phrynia flourishing two fathoms deep, and where the stumps of -cut trees had sprouted and grown until their tufted tops were joined to -one another in one great thick carpet of bush. Through this we carved -our way with brandished billhooks and cutlasses; the native women had -lost the track, and were bewildered by the wildly luxuriant shrubbery, -under which we sweated in the damp hot-house heat, and ploughed our way -through the deep green sea, until after ten hours we came to a babbling -rillet, and must perforce camp from sheer exhaustion, though we had made -but five miles. - -[Sidenote: 1888. - -Nov. 4. - -Forest.] - -On the morning of the fourth we resumed the task, to slash, cut, creep -and crawl, bore through, in and out, to clamber over logs, tread -carefully over gaping rifts in the reeking compost, bend under logs, to -tunnel away with might and main, to drive through--a hungry column of -men was behind, a wilderness before us--to crash headlong through the -plants, veer to the left, and now to the right, to press on and on, to -sharpen the weapons on the stones of the brook; to take a hasty drink to -satisfy our thirst, and again to the work. Cleave away merrily, boys; -sever those creepers; cut those saplings down! No way now? then widen -that game hole in the bush clump! Come, strike with billhook and sword, -axe and cutlass! We must not die like fools in this demon world! This -way and that, through and through, until after sixteen hours we had cut -a crooked channel through the awful waste, and stood once more under the -lordly crowns of the primeval forest. - -Paddy's traditional patchy clothes was a dress suit compared to mine, as -I stood woefully regarding the rents and tatters and threads waving in -tassels from my breeches and shirt; and the men smiled, and one said we -looked like rats dragged through the teeth of traps, which I thought was -not a bad simile. But we had no time for talk; we ate a couple of roast -plantains for lunch, and continued our journey, and by 3 P.M. were -within half-an-hour of the Ihuru River. - -The next day, before it was full daylight, we were filing along an -elephant track that ran parallel with the Ihuru, which was at this time -one raging series of rapids its whole length, and sounding its unceasing -uproar in our ears. Numbers of deep tributaries were waded through; but -we maintained a quick pace, owing to the broad track of the elephants, -and by the usual hour of the afternoon nine miles had been covered. - -Thirteen Zanzibaris of the rear column, and one of the Danagla soldiers -of Emin Pasha, had succumbed during the last few days, and I do not know -how many Madis and Manyuema. - -On the evening of the sixth, after a march of eight miles, I became -impressed with the necessity of finding food shortly, unless we were to -witness wholesale mortality. Starvation is hard to bear, but when loads -must be carried upon empty stomachs, and the marches are long, the least -break in the continuity of supply brings with it a train of diseases -which soon thins the ranks. Our Nyanza people were provident, and eked -their stores with mushrooms and wild fruit; but the feeble -manioc-poisoned men of the rear column, Madis and Manyuema, were utterly -heedless of advice and example. - -A youth named Amani, who looked rather faint, was adjured to tell me the -truth about what he had eaten the last two days. - -[Sidenote: 1888. - -Nov. 6. - -Forest.] - -"I will," he said. "My mess had a fair provision of plantain flour that -would have kept us with ease two days longer; but Sulimani, who carried -it, put it down by the roadside while he went to gather mushrooms. When -he returned the food was gone. He says the Manyuema had stolen it. Each -one of us then on reaching camp last night set out to hunt for -mushrooms, out of which we made a gruel. That is what we had to eat last -night for supper. This morning we have fasted, but we are going to hunt -up mushrooms again." - -"And what will you eat to-morrow?" - -"To-morrow is in the hands of God. I will live in hopes that I shall -find something." - -This youth, he was only nineteen, had carried sixty pound of cartridges -in the meantime, and would carry it again to-morrow, and the next day, -until he dropped, and measured his length with eyes upturned to the dark -cope of leaves above, to be left there to mildew and rot; for out of -nothing, nothing can be extracted to feed hungry men. He was only a -solitary instance of over 400 people. - -We reached a Manyuema Camp, and Uledi recognised it as being a place -where he had halted during a forage tour to the west of the Ihuru, while -he was waiting for Messrs. Jephson and Nelson at Ipoto, and the advance -column was journeying to Ibwiri in November, 1887. - -On the 7th a halt was ordered, that a column might be sent under Uledi -to search the clearing of Andari, six miles N.N.W. of the camp, but over -a hundred were so weak that they were unable to go, whereupon the messes -were ordered to bring their pots up, and three handfuls of flour were -placed in each to make gruel with, that they might have strength to -reach the plantation. - -On the 8th, about 200 remained silent in camp awaiting the foragers. In -the afternoon, perceiving that it was too long a fast to wait for them -we served out more plantain flour. - -[Sidenote: 1888. - -Nov. 9. - -Forest.] - -On the 9th, the foragers had not arrived. Two men had died in camp. One -reeled from the effects of a poisonous fungus, as they came to get -another ration of flour for their gruel; their steps were more feeble; -the bones of the sternum were fearfully apparent. Three days would find -us all perished, but we were hopeful that every minute we should hear -the murmur of the returning column. - -On the morning of the 10th, anxious for the European provisions which we -were carrying for the officers at Fort Bodo, I had them examined, and -discovered to my consternation that fifty-seven tins of meat, teas, -coffees, milks, were short--had been eaten by the Manyuema. If a look -had potency sufficient to blast them, they would have speedily been -reduced to ashes. "Dear me, how could the tins have vanished?" asked the -chief Sadi. Ah, how? But the provision boxes were taken from his party, -and Winchester and Maxim ammunition cases were served instead to them as -freight. - -At 2 P.M. the column of foragers returned, bringing from three to six -days' provisions, which they had gathered from an abandoned plantation. -The bearers had refreshed themselves previous to gathering. Now, in -return for my gruel, each member had to refund me one pound of flour, as -my reserve store, and one pound for the sick, who were deprived of the -power to forage, and who were rejected by the messes. So that in this -manner the sick received about eight pounds of flour, or dried -plantains, and I owned a reserve of 200 pounds for future use. - -Within an hour-and-a-half on the 11th we had reached Kilonga-Longa's -ferry. The natives, fearing a repetition of his raids to the west of the -Ihuru, had destroyed every canoe, and thus prevented me from crossing to -pay Kilonga-Longa another visit, and to settle some accounts with him. -The river was also in flood, and a gaunt and hungry wilderness stretched -all round us. There was no other way for it than to follow the Ihuru -upward until we could find means to cross to the east, or left side. Our -course was now N.E. by N. - -[Sidenote: 1888. - -Nov. 12. - -Forest.] - -On the 12th, we followed a track, along which quite a tribe of pigmies -must have passed. It was lined with amoma fruit-skins, and shells of -nuts, and the crimson rinds of phrynia berries. No wood-beans, or -fenessi, or mabungu, are to be found in this region, as on the south -bank of Ituri River. On reaching camp, I found that at the ferry, near -the native camp at which we starved four days, six people had -succumbed--a Madi, from a poisonous fungus, the Lado soldier, who was -speared above Wasp Rapids, two Soudanese of the rear-column, a Manyuema -boy in the service of Mr. Bonny, and Ibrahim, a fine young Zanzibari, -from a poisoned skewer in the foot. - -During the 13th the great forest was perceptibly improved for travel. -Our elephant and game track had brought us across another track leading -easterly from Andari, and both joined presently, developing to a highway -much patronised by the pigmy tribes. This we followed for two hours. We -could tell where they had stopped to light their pipes, and to crack -nuts, and trap game, and halt to gossip. The twigs were broken three -feet from the ground, showing that they were snapped by dwarfs. Where it -was a little muddy the path showed high delicate insteps, proving their -ancient ancestry and aristocratic descent, and small feet not larger -than those of young English misses of eight years old. The path improved -as we tramped along; it grew a highway of promise. Camps of the dwarfs -were numerous. The soil was ochreous, the trees were larger, and towered -to magnificent heights. - -[Sidenote: 1888. - -Nov. 13. - -Forest.] - -[Illustration: ENTERING ANDIKUMU.] - -I observed as we filed into camp that it was time to obtain a further -supply of food, and rest somewhere, the bearing of the people lacked -confidence, their forms were shrinking under the terrible task, and -perpetual daily toil and round of marching and hunger. I could have wept -at the excess of misfortunes which weighed us daily lower towards the -grave; but we had been for so long strained to bear violent -vicissitudes, and so frequently afflicted with sights of anguish and -suffering, that we were reduced to hear each day's tale of calamity in -sorrowful silence. What losses we had already borne were beyond power -of plaint and tear to restore. The morrow's grief awaited us, as certain -as the morrow's sun; and to dwell upon the sorrowful past was to unfit -us for what we had yet to bear. - -To make 230 loads equal to the daily lessening number of carriers was a -most aggravating task. Not one out of twenty men but made some complaint -of a severe ulcer, a headache, or threatened rupture, undefined bodily -pains, a whitlow, a thorn in the foot, rheumatism, fever, &c. The loads -remained always the same, but the carriers died. - -On the 14th, the Expedition, after a six hours' march, approached Anduta -and Andikumu. As the advance guard was pressing in over the logs and -debris of the prostrated forest, some arrows flew, and two men fell -wounded, and immediately boxes and bales were dropped, and quite a -lively skirmish with the tall-hatted natives occurred; but in -half-an-hour the main body of the caravan filed in, to find such a store -of abnormally large plantains that the ravenous men were in ecstacies. - -In extent the clearing was equal to the famous one of Ibwiri. It was -situate in the bosom of hills which rose to the east, west and south. -Along one of the tracks we saw the blazings of the Manyuema on the -trees, and one of the villages was in ruins; but the size of the -clearing had baffled the ravaging horde in their attempt to destroy the -splendid plantain groves. - -On examining the boxes of ammunition before stacking them for the night, -it was found that Corporal Dayn Mohammed had not brought his load in, -and we ascertained that he had laid it at the base of a big tree near -the path. Four headmen were at once ordered to return with the Soudanese -Corporal to recover the box. - -[Sidenote: 1888. - -Nov. 14. - -Andikumu.] - -Arriving near the spot, they saw quite a tribe of pigmies, men, women -and children, gathered around two pigmy warriors, who were trying to -test the weight of the box by the grummet at each end. Our headmen, -curious to see what they would do with the box, lay hidden closely, for -the eyes of the little people are exceedingly sharp. Every member of the -tribe seemed to have some device to suggest, and the little boys hopped -about on one leg, spanking their hips in irrepressible delight at the -find, and the tiny women carrying their tinier babies at their backs -vociferated the traditional wise woman's counsel. Then a doughty man put -a light pole, and laid it through the grummets, and all the small people -cheered shrilly with joy at the genius displayed by them in inventing a -method for heaving along the weighty case of Remington ammunition. The -Hercules and the Milo of the tribe put forth their utmost strength, and -raised the box up level with their shoulders, and staggered away into -the bush. But just then a harmless shot was fired, and the big men -rushed forward with loud shouts, and then began a chase; and one -over-fat young fellow of about seventeen was captured and brought to our -camp as a prize. We saw the little Jack Horner, too fat by many pounds; -but the story belongs to the headmen, who delivered it with infinite -humour. - -Mr. Bonny was sent to the Ihuru River on the 17th, to examine an old -ferry reported to be there, but returned unsuccessful in finding a -canoe, but with the information that the river appeared to flow from -E.N.E., and was about sixty yards wide, with quiet current, and good -depth. - -The afternoon of the 14th, 15th and 16th of November, were spent by the -people in making amends for their past abstinence. What with boiled, -roasted plantains and porridge, they must have consumed an immense -number. Probably each man had eaten 140 plantains during the three days. - -[Sidenote: 1888. - -Nov. 19. - -Anduta.] - -[Illustration: THE SCOUTS DISCOVER THE PYGMIES CARRYING AWAY THE CASE OF -AMMUNITION.] - -Within a short time after leaving Andikumu on the 19th, we passed -through Anduta; and then the column passed by a picturesque hill called -Kakwa, over a rough country bristling with immense rock fragments and -boulders thickly covered, and surrounded with depths of ferns. Among the -rocks near our camp on this date was found a store of corn and -bananas, which no doubt belonged to the dwarfs. Had the find occurred -a few days previously, there would have been a riotous scramble for -them; but now each man was so burdened with his private stores that they -regarded it with supreme indifference. The men also so suffered from -indigestion after their revel at Andikumu that they were unfit for -travel. - -A five-mile march was made on the 20th. Since striking the dwarfs' -highway, unlike the loamy soils which absorbed the perpetual rains -nearer the Ituri, the path now led through a stiff red clayey country, -which retained the rain in pools, and made it soapy and slippery. - -At the noonday halt the leader of the van wandered a few hundred yards -ahead on the path and encountered a native caravan from Anditoke, N. The -natives uttered a howl of surprise at perceiving him, but seeing that he -had no weapon, quickly advanced towards him with uplifted spears. But -the howl they had raised had been heard by all at the halting-place, and -the savages were met in time to save the Zanzibari leader. A skirmish -took place, two of the natives were wounded and one was killed, and the -effects of the caravan were captured. These effects consisted of iron -rings, knobs, bracelets, and anklets, and calamus fibre leg-rings, a few -native smith's tools, and, most singular of all, several unfired -Remington cartridges. - -The first thought that was suggested was that Fort Bodo had either been -evacuated or captured, or that some patrols had been waylaid; but on -reflection we settled on the conviction that these cartridges had -belonged to some raiding parties of Manyuema, but that originally they -were our property. - -The travelling powers of the men was noticeably low on the 21st; they -still suffered from their late debauch. At noon of this day we were in -N. lat. 1 deg. 43', which proved that, despite every effort to find a path -leading eastward we were advancing north. - -[Sidenote: 1888. - -Nov. 21. - -Forest.] - -Chama Issa, the last of the Somalis, was reported dead on this day, but -at the noon halt I was greatly gratified to see him; his case, being as -he was the last of the Somalis, excited great interest. A portion from -my own table went to him daily, and two Soudanese were detailed for -extra pay to serve, feed, and carry him. Up to the evening of this day -thirty-two out of the Banalya rear column had perished. At Banalya I had -estimated that about half of the number would not survive. While they -were being carried in the canoes there was no call for exertion, but the -march overland had been most fatal to the unfortunates. - -On the 22nd, soon after the advance had reached camp, a cold and heavy -shower of rain fell, which demoralized many in the column; their failing -energies and their impoverished systems were not proof against cold. -Madis and Zanzibaris dropped their loads in the road, and rushed -helter-skelter for the camp. One Madi managed to crawl near my tent, -wherein a candle was lit, for in a rainstorm the forest, even in -daylight, is as dark as on an ordinary night in the grass-land. Hearing -him groan, I issued out with the candle, and found the naked body rigid -in the mud, unable to move. As he saw the candle flame his eyes dilated -widely, and he attempted to grasp it with his hands. He was at once -borne to a fire, and laid within a few inches of it, and with the -addition of a pint of hot broth made from the Liebig Company's extract -of meat we restored him to his senses. On the road in front of the rear -guard two Madis died, and also one Zanzibari of the rear column stricken -instantaneously to death by the intensely cold rain. - -We made a march of two hours the next day, and then despatched -forty-five choice men ahead to try and obtain meal for the salvation of -the Banalya men and the Madis, whose powers were too weak for further -effort. The scouts returned within twenty-four hours with a goat, which -was at once slaughtered to make thirty gallons of soup. When thickened -with two pounds of wheaten flour, the soup made a most welcome meal for -over sixty men. We reached Indemau by 10 A.M. on the 25th. The village -was situated in a hollow at the base of a mount, and was distant from -the Dui branch of the Ihuru six miles. - -[Sidenote: 1888. - -Nov. 25. - -Indemau.] - -At Indemau the long-enduring members of the Expedition received another -respite from total annihilation. The plantain groves were extensive and -laden with fruit, and especially with ripe mellow plantains whose -fragrance was delicious. But in the same manner that it was impossible -to teach these big children to economise their rations, so it was -impossible to teach them moderation when they found themselves in the -midst of plenty. At Andikumu an army might have been supplied with good -wholesome food, but the inordinate voracity of the famished people had -been followed by severe indigestion, and at Indemau their intemperate -appetites brought on such sickening repletion that we were engaged every -morning in listening to their complaints and administering enemata to -relieve the congested bodies. - -A path from Indemau was discovered, leading across the Dui River; there -was another leading to Indeperri, a large settlement about fifteen miles -N.E. from Fort Bodo. It had been my original purpose to steer a course -through the forest which would take us direct to the grass-land, along a -more northerly route than the line of Ipoto and Fort Bodo, after sending -a detachment to settle accounts with Kilonga-Longa; but in our endeavour -to find a ford or ferry across the Ihuru we had been compelled by the -high flood to continue parallel with the river until now. Observation -proved us to be in N. lat. 1 deg. 47' and E. long. 29 deg. 7' 45". But the -discovery of Remington cartridges among the stores of a native caravan -in these unknown parts, and yet within a reasonable distance of Fort -Bodo, notwithstanding a rational assurance that Fort Bodo was -impregnable and the garrison were now safe with Emin Pasha on the -Nyanza, had intruded doubts in my mind which I thought would best be -resolved by deflecting our course southward, and sweeping past the old -Fort, and seeing with our own eyes what had really occurred. Mr. Bonny -was therefore sent with the chief Rashid and sixty men, to build a -bridge across the Dui River. - -[Sidenote: 1888. - -Dec. 1. - -Dui River.] - -After a halt of five days the Expedition marched from Indemau on the -1st of December for the Dui. Mr. Bonny and old Rashid, with their -assistants, were putting the finishing touches to the bridge, a work -which reflected great credit on all concerned in its construction, but -especially on Mr. Bonny. Without halting an instant the column marched -across the five branches of the Dui, over a length of rough but -substantial woodwork, which measured in the aggregate eighty yards, -without a single accident. - -[Illustration: BRIDGING THE DUI RIVER.] - -On the other side of the Dui we made a rough muster of the people, and -discovered that thirty-four of the rear column had died, and that out of -sixteen Zanzibaris on the sick list, fourteen were of the Yambuya party, -and they all appeared to be in such a condition that a few days only -would decide their fate. Every goat and fowl that we could procure were -distributed to these poor people in the hope of saving them. We cooked -for them; Mr. Bonny was directed to administer medicines daily; we -relieved them of every article, excepting their own rations, and yet so -wrecked were their systems by what they had endured at Yambuya and -Banalya, that a slight abrasion from plants, branches or creepers, -developed into a raging ulcer, which in three or four days would be -several inches across. Nothing but the comforts and rest obtained in a -metropolitan hospital would have arrested this rapid decline. - -We made a short march to the small village of Andiuba, and from thence -we reached in three hours the large settlement of Addiguhha. On the 4th -we reached Ngwetza in four-and-a-half hours, and formed camp outside of -the plantain-grove. We had passed through ten villages of the pigmies, -but without having seen one of them. The woods were dense, and the -undergrowth flourishing. Belts of sloughy mud, disparted by small -streams, divided one village from another. It was in just such a -locality our camp was pitched on the 4th of December. Presently into the -centre of the camp a full uddered goat, with two fine kids four months -old, walked, and after a short stare of undisguised surprise at the -family, we sprang upon them and secured the undoubted gift of the gods, -and sacrificed them. Half-an-hour later we were told that one of the -Uchu natives attached to Mr. Bonny had received an arrow in his body, -and that the dwarfs had attacked and killed a Manyuema boy. A party was -sent to convey the boy's body into the woods, where it could be buried -by his friends, but in the morning the meat had been carried away. - -The criers were instructed to proceed through the camp to prepare five -days' provisions of food. Their cries were heard ringing from end to -end, and huge loads of material for the wooden grates were brought in, -and throughout the 5th the people devoted themselves to the preparation -of flour. - -[Sidenote: 1888. - -Dec. 5. - -Ngwetza.] - -The next day, as we marched southerly, it was observed that we were -following a gradual slope to the river Ihuru. We crossed six broad and -sluggish streams, with breadths of mud coloured red by iron; banked by -dense nurseries of Raphia Palm and rattan. About 3 P.M. the -advance-guard stumbled upon several families of dwarfs, and a capture -was made of an old woman, a girl, and a boy of eighteen, besides a stock -of bananas, and some fowls. The "old" lady was as strong as a horse -apparently, and to the manner of carrying a load of bananas she appeared -to be quite accustomed. - -The family of little people intimated that they knew the forest well, -but they had a strong inclination for an E.N.E. course, which would have -taken us away from Fort Bodo. They were therefore sent to the rear, and -we swung along S., and by E., sometimes S.S.E., traversed six streams on -the 7th, and a similar number on the 8th. - -Soon after the headquarters' tent had been pitched, and the undergrowth -of leafy plants had been cleared somewhat, I observed a young fellow -stagger; and going up to him I questioned him as to the cause. I was -astonished to be told that it was from weakness, and want of food. Have -you eaten all your five days' rations already? No, he had thrown it away -because the dwarf captives had said that in one day they would reach a -famous place for plantains, the "biggest in the world." - -Upon extending my inquiries it was found that there were at least 150 -people in the camp who had likewise followed his example, and discarded -superfluous food, and on that day, the 8th, they had nothing. The -headmen were called that night to a council, and after being reproached -for their reckless conduct, it was resolved that on the next day almost -every able-bodied person should return to Ngwetza which we had left on -the morning of the 6th. The distance was 19-1/2 hours for the caravan, but -as much time was necessarily lost in cutting through the jungly -undergrowth, and even now and then in laying a course, the forage party -would be able to return to Ngwetza in eleven hours' travel. - -[Sidenote: 1888. - -Dec. 9. - -Starvation - -Camp.] - -On the morning of the 9th, about 200 people started for the plantain -groves of Ngwetza, but before departing they contributed about 200 lbs. -of plantain flour as a reserve for the sickly ones, and guards of the -camp. We were about 130 in number, men, women and pigmies, the majority -of whom were already distressed. I gave half-a-cupful of flour to each -person for the day, then despatched Mr. Bonny with ten men to find the -Ihuru River. According to my calculations, the camp was in N. lat. 1 deg. -27' 15", and E. long. 29 deg. 21' 30", about nine geographical miles in an -air-line north of Fort Bodo, but it was useless to show the chart to men -dreading that starvation was again imminent. All they saw was the -eternal myriads of trees with a dead black unknown environing the camp -round about, shutting out all hope, and a viewless and stern prospect of -rigid wood with a dark cope of leaves burying them out of sight of sky -and sunshine, as though they lived under a pall. But they knew that the -Ihuru was not far from Fort Bodo, and if Mr. Bonny and his men -discovered it, some little encouragement would be gained. Mr. Bonny -succeeded in finding the river, and blazed a path to it. - -For employment's sake I sat down to recalculate all my observations with -exactitude, to correct certain discrepancies that our journeys over the -same ground had enabled me to detect; and buried in my Norie, and -figures and charts, my mind was fully occupied. But on the 14th my work -was done. I lived in hope the next day, with my hearing on the strain -for the sound of voices. The people looked miserable, but hopeful. A box -of European provisions was opened, a pot of butter and milk were taken -out, and a table-spoonful of each dropped into the earthenware pots that -were already filled with boiling water. In this manner a thin broth was -made which would serve to protract the agony of existence. On the sixth -day the pots were again ranged round me in a semi-circle, and in -rotation, each cook brought his vessel of hot water to receive his -butter and milk, and after being well stirred, marched off with his -group to distribute the broth according to measure. A little heartened -by the warm liquid they scattered through the woods to hunt up the red -berries of the phrynia, and pick up now and then the amomum, whose -sour-sweet pulp appeared to quiet the gnawing of the stomach. A -mushroom in the course of several hundred yards' rambling would perhaps -fall to the lot of the seeker. But when 130 men have wandered about and -about, to and fro, searching for the edibles, the circle widens, and day -by day the people had to penetrate further and further away from the -camp. And it happened that while searching with eagerness, impelled on -and on by the eager stomach, that they were carried some miles away, and -they had paid no regard to the course they were going; and when they -wished to return to camp they knew not which way to seek it, and two -full-grown men and Saburi, a little boy of eight years, did not return. -I had a peculiar liking for the small child. His duty was to carry my -Winchester, and cartridge pouch. He was usually a dark cherub, round as -a roller, strong and sturdy, with an old man's wisdom within his little -boy's head, and frequently when the caravan was on its mettle, and a -fair road before it, I looked back often and often to see how little -Saburi trotted steadily after me. Being the rifle-bearer, trained to be -at my heels at any strange sound, I deprived myself of many a choice bit -to nourish Saburi with, so that his round stomach had drawn a smile from -all who looked at him. He looked like a little boy with a keg under his -frock. But, alas! in the last few days the keg had collapsed, and he, -like all the others, had penetrated into the wilderness of phrynia to -search for berries. On this day he was lost. - -In the dark the muzzle-loaders of the Manyuema were employed to fire -signals. About 9 P.M. we thought we heard the little boy's voice. The -halloo was sounded, and a reply came from the other end of the camp. One -of the great ivory horns boomed out its deep sound. Then the cry came -from the opposite side. Some of the men said that it must be Saburi's -ghost wailing his death. The picture of the little fellow seeing the -dark night come down upon him with its thick darkness in those eerie -wilds, with fierce dwarfs prowling about, and wild boar and huge -chimpanzee, leopards and cheetahs, with troops of elephants trampling -and crashing the crisp phrynia, and great baboons beating hollow -trees--everything terrifying, in fact, round about him--depressed us -exceedingly. We gave him up for lost. - -It had been an awful day. In the afternoon a boy had died. Three persons -were lost. The condition of the majority was most disheartening. Some -could not stand, but fell down in the effort. These sights began to act -on my nerves, until I began to feel not only moral sympathy, but -physical as well, as though bodily weakness was infectious. - -On my bed that night the thought of the absent men troubled me; but -however distasteful was the idea that a terrible misfortune--such as -being lost in the woods, or collapsing from hunger before they reached -the groves--it became impossible not to regard the darkest view and -expect the worst, in order, if possible, to save a remnant of the -Expedition that the news might be carried to the Pasha and thence to -civilisation some day. I pictured the entire column perished here in -this camp, and the Pasha wondering month after month what had become of -us, and we corrupting and decaying in this unknown corner in the great -forest, and every blaze on the trees healed up, and every trail -obliterated within a year, and our burial-place remaining unknown until -the end of time. Indeed, it appeared to me as if we were drifting -steadily towards just such a fate. Here were about 200 men without food -going thirty-five miles to seek it. Not 150 would perhaps reach it; the -others would throw themselves, like the Madis, to the ground, to wait, -to beg from others, if perchance they returned. If an accident to the 50 -bravest men happen, what then? Some are shot down by dwarfs; the larger -aborigines attack the others in a body. The men have no leader; they -scatter about, they become bewildered, lose their way, or are speared -one after another. While we are waiting, ever waiting for people who -cannot return, those with me die first by threes, sixes, tens, twenties, -and then, like a candle extinguished, we are gone. Nay, something had to -be done. - -On the sixth day we made the broth as usual, a pot of butter and a pot -of milk for 130 people, and the headmen and Mr. Bonny were called to -council. On proposing a reverse to the foragers of such a nature as to -cause an utter loss of all, they appeared unable to comprehend such a -possibility, though folly after folly, madness after madness, had marked -every day of my acquaintance with them. The departure of men secretly on -raids, and never returning, the leaping of fifty men into the river -after a bush antelope, the throwing away of their rations after fifteen -months' experiences of the forest, the reckless rush into guarded -plantations, skewering their feet, the inattention they paid to -abrasions leaving them to develope into rabid ulcers; the sale of their -rifles to men who would have enslaved them all, follies practised by -blockheads day after day, week after week; and then to say they could -not comprehend the possibility of a fearful disaster. Were not 300 men -with three officers lost in the wood for six days? Were not three -persons lost close to this camp yesterday and they have not returned? -Did I not tell these men that we should all die if they were not back on -the fourth day? Was not this the sixth day of their absence? Were there -not fifty people close to death now? and much else of the same kind? - -By-and-by, the conviction stole on their minds that if by accident we -were to remain in camp inactive for three days, we should then be too -weak to seek food; and they agreed with me that it would be a wise thing -to bury the goods, and set out on our return to Ngwetza to procure food -for ourselves. But there was one difficulty. If we buried the goods, and -fifty sick men preferred to remain in the camp to following us, should -we return to the _cache_, we should find that the sick had exhumed the -goods, and wrecked everything out of pure mischief. - -[Illustration: STARVATION CAMP: SERVING OUT MILK AND BUTTER FOR BROTH.] - -Mr. Bonny then came to the rescue, and offered to stay with ten men in -camp, if I provided food for him and the garrison for ten days, the time -we decided we should be absent. Food to make a light gruel for so -small a number for ten days was not difficult to find. Half a cupful of -cornflour per man for thirteen men for ten days was measured, with the -addition of four milk biscuits per man each day. A few tins of butter -and condensed milk were also set apart to assist the gruel. For those -unwilling or unable to follow us to the plantains we could do nothing. -What might sustain a small garrison of thirteen men for many days would -not save the lives of fifty when they were already so far gone, that -only an abundance of digestive plantain flour could possibly save them. - -On this morning little Saburi walked into camp quite unconcerned, and -fresh as from a happy outing. "Why Saburi! where have you been?" "I lost -my way while picking berries, and I wandered about, and near night I -came to a track. I saw the marks of the axes, and I said--Lo! this is -our road, and I followed it thinking I was coming to camp. But, instead -of that, I saw only a big river. It was the Ihuru! Then I found a big -hollow tree, and I went into it and slept; and then I came back along -the road, and so and so, until I walked in here. That is all." - -We mustered every soul alive in the camp on the morning of the 15th. -Sadi, the Manyuema headman, reported fourteen of his people unable to -travel; Kibbobora reported his sick brother as being the only person of -his party too sick to move; Fundi had a wife and a little boy too weak -for the journey. The Expedition was obliged to leave 26. 43 persons -verging on dissolution unless food could be procured within twenty-four -hours. Assuming a cheery tone, though my heart was well-nigh breaking, I -told them to be of good courage, that I was going to hunt up the -absentees, who no doubt were gorging themselves; most likely I should -find them on the road, in which case they would have to run all the way. -"Meantime, pray for my success. God is the only one who can help you!" - -[Sidenote: 1888. - -Dec. 15. - -Starvation - -Camp.] - -We set out 1 P.M. on our return journey towards Ngwetza, thirty-five -miles distant, with sixty-five men and boys and twelve women. We -travelled until night, and then threw ourselves on the ground, -scattered about in groups, or singly, each under his own clump of bush, -silent and sad, and communing with his own thoughts. Vain was it for me -to seek for that sleep which is the "balm of hurt minds." Too many -memories crowded about me; too many dying forms haunted me in the -darkness; my lively fancies were too distorted by dread, which painted -them with dismal colours; the stark forms lying in links along the path, -which we had seen that afternoon in our tramp, were things too solemn -for sudden oblivion. The stars could not be seen to seek comfort in -their twinkling; the poor hearts around me were too heavy to utter -naught but groans of despair; the fires were not lit, for there was no -food to cook--my grief was great. Out of the pall-black darkness came -out the eerie shapes that haunt the fever-land, that jibe and mock the -lonely man, and weave figures of flame, and draw fiery forms in the -mantle of the night; and whispers breathed through the heavy air of -graves and worms, and forgetfulness; and a demon hinted in the dazed -brain that 'twere better to rest than to think with a sickening heart; -and the sough of the wind through the crowns of the thick-black bush -seemed to sigh and moan "Lost! lost! lost! Thy labour and grief are in -vain. Comfortless days upon days; brave lives are sobbing their last; -man after man roll down to the death, to mildew and rot, and thou wilt -be left alone!" - -"Allah ho Akbar," was the cry that rang through the gloom, from a man -with a breaking heart. The words went pealing along through the dark, -and they roused the echoes of "God is great" within me. Why should a -Moslem recall a Christian to thoughts of his God? "Ye fools, when will -ye be wise? He that planted the ear, shall He not hear? He that formed -the eye, shall He not see?" And, lo! worthier thoughts possess the mind, -the straining of the eyes through the darkness is relaxed, and the sight -is inverted to see dumb witnesses of past mercies on this or that -forgotten occasion; one memory begets another, until the stubborn heart -is melted, and our needs are laid as upon a tablet before the Great -Deliverer. - -Towards morning I dozed, to spring up a few hours later as the darkness -was fading, and a ghostly light showed the still groups of my -companions. - -"Up, boys, up! to the plantains! up! Please God we shall have plantains -to-day!" This was uttered to cheer the sad hearts. Within a few minutes -we had filed away from our earthy couches, and were on the track in the -cheerless light of the morning, some hobbling from sores, some limping -from ulcers, some staggering from weakness. We had commenced to feel -warmed up with the motion of the march, when, hark! I heard a murmur of -voices ahead. Little Saburi held the rifle ready, observant of the least -sign of the hand, when I saw a great pile of green fruit rising above -the broad leaves of the phrynia that obstructed a clear view, and -intuitively one divined that this must be the column of foragers -advancing to meet us, and in a second of time, the weak, the lame, and -the cripple, the limping and moaning people forgot their griefs and -their woes, and shouted the grateful chant which goes up of its own -accord towards the skies out of the full and sensitive hearts, "Thanks -be to God." Englishman and African, Christian and Pagan, all alike -confess Him. He is not here, or there, but everywhere, and the heart of -the grateful man confesseth Him. - -It needed only one view of the foremost men to have told what the -heedless, thoughtless herd had been doing. It was no time for -reproaches, however, but to light fires, sit down and roast the green -fruit, and get strength for the return, and in an hour we were swinging -away back again to Starvation Camp, where we arrived at 2.30 P.M., to be -welcomed as only dying men can welcome those who lend the right hand to -help them. And all that afternoon young and old, Zanzibari and Manyuema, -Soudanese and Madi, forgot their sorrows of the past in the pleasures of -the present, and each vowed to be more provident in the future--until -the next time. - -[Sidenote: 1888. - -Dec. 17. - -Ihuru - -River.] - -On the 17th we reached the Ihuru, and the next day forded the river, and -from thence we cut our way through the forest, through bush and plants -which were the undergrowth, and early in the afternoon of the 19th we -emerged out of the trackless bush, and presently were on the outskirts -of the plantations of Fort Bodo, at which all the people admired -greatly. - -On the 20th we cut a track through the deserted plantations, and after -an hour's hard work reached our well-known road, which had been so often -patrolled by us. We soon discovered traces of recent travel, and late -foraging in piles of plantain skins near the track; but we could not -discover by whom these were made. Probably the natives had retired to -their settlements; perhaps the dwarfs were now banqueting on the fat of -the land. We approached the end of our broad western military road, and -at the turning met some Zanzibari patrols who were as much astonished as -we were ourselves at the sudden encounter. Volley after volley soon rang -through the silence of the clearing. The fort soon responded, and a -stream of frantic men, wild with joy, advanced by leaps and bounds to -meet us; and among the first was my dear friend the Doctor, who -announced, with eyes dancing with pleasure, "All is well at Fort Bodo." - - - - -CHAPTER XXIII. - -THE GREAT CENTRAL AFRICAN FOREST. - - Professor Drummond's statements respecting Africa--Dimensions of - the great forest--Vegetation--Insect life--Description of the - trees, &c.--Tribes and their food--The primaeval forest--The bush - proper--The clearings: wonders of vegetable life--The queer feeling - of loneliness--A forest tempest--Tropical vegetation along the - banks of the Aruwimi--Wasps' nests--The forest typical of human - life--A few secrets of the woods--Game in the forest--Reasons why - we did not hunt the animals--Birds--The Simian tribe--Reptiles and - insects--The small bees and the beetles--The "jigger"--Night - disturbances by falling trees, &c.--The Chimpanzee--The rainiest - zone of the earth--The Ituri or Upper Aruwimi--The different tribes - and their languages--Their features and customs--Their - complexion--Conversation with some captives at Engwedde--The - Wambutti dwarfs: their dwellings and mode of living--The Batwa - dwarfs--Life in the forest villages--Two Egyptians captured by the - dwarfs at Fort Bodo--The poisons used for the arrows--Our treatment - for wounds by the arrows--The wild fruits of the forest--Domestic - animals--Ailments of the Madis and Zanzibaris--The Congo Railway - and the forest products. - - -[Sidenote: 1888. - -Dec. - -Forest.] - -An English Professor, qualified to write F.R.S.E., F.G.S., after his -name, who is a talented writer, and gifted with first-class descriptive -powers, while confessing that he was but a "minor traveller, possessing -but few assets," ventured upon the following bold statements respecting -Africa:-- - -"Cover the coast belt with rank yellow grass, dot here and there a palm, -scatter through it a few demoralised villages, and stock it with the -leopard, the hyena, the crocodile, and the hippopotamus; clothe the -mountainous plateaux next, both of them with endless forest, not grand -umbrageous forest, like the forests of South America, nor matted jungle -like the forests of India, but with thin, rather weak forest, with -forest of low trees, whose half-grown trunks and scanty leaves offer no -shade from the tropical sun,"--but you will find nothing in all these -trees to remind you that you are in the tropics. "Day after day you may -wander through these forests with nothing except the climate to remind -you where you are * * * * *." "The fairy labyrinth of ferns and palms, -the festoons of climbing plants blocking the paths and scenting the -forests with their resplendent flowers, the gorgeous clouds of insects, -the gaily plumaged birds, the parraquets, the monkey swinging from his -trapeze in the shaded bowers--these are unknown to Africa." - -"Once a week you will see a palm; once in three months the monkeys will -cross your path; the flowers on the whole are few, the trees are poor, -and, to be honest"--but enough; if this is honest description, the -reader had better toss my books aside, for this chapter goes to prove -that I differ in toto with the learned Professor's views respecting -tropical Africa. - -We have travelled together thus far 1670 miles through the great central -African forest, and we can vouch that the above description by Professor -Drummond bears no more resemblance to tropical Africa than the tors of -Devon, or the moors of Yorkshire, or the downs of Dover represent the -smiling scenes of England, of leafy Warwickshire, the gardens of Kent, -and the glorious vales of the isle. Nyassaland is not Africa, but -itself. Neither can we call the wilderness of Masai Land, or the -scrub-covered deserts of Kalahari, or the rolling grass land of Usukuma, -or the thin forests of Unyamwezi, or, the ochreous acacia-covered area -of Ugogo, anything but sections of a continent that boasts many zones. -Africa is about three times greater than Europe in its extent, and is -infinitely more varied. You have the desert of deserts in the Sahara, -you have the steppes of Eastern Russia in Masai Land and parts of South -Africa, you have the Castilian uplands in Unyamwezi, you have the best -parts of France represented by Egypt, you have Switzerland in Ukonju and -Toro, the Alps in Ruwenzori--you have Brazil in the Congo basin, the -Amazon in the Congo River, and its immense forests rivalled by the -Central African forest which I am about to describe. - -The greatest length of this forest, that is from near Kabambarre in -South Manyuema to Bagbomo on the Welle-Makua in West Niam-niam, is 621 -miles; its average breadth is 517 miles, which makes a compact square -area of 321,057 square miles. This is exclusive of the forest areas -separated or penetrated into by campo-like reaches of grass land, or of -the broad belts of timber which fill the lower levels of each great -river basin like the Lumani, Lulungu, Welle-Mubangi, and the parent -river from Bolobo to the Loika River. - -The Congo and the Aruwimi rivers enabled us to penetrate this vast area -of primeval woods a considerable length. I only mean to treat, -therefore, of that portion which extends from Yambuya in 25 deg. 3-1/2' E. L. -to Indesura, 29 deg. 59' = 326-1/2 English miles in a straight line. - -Now let us look at this great forest, not for a scientific analysis of -its woods and productions, but to get a real idea of what it is like. It -covers such a vast area, it is so varied and yet so uniform in its -features, that it would require many books to treat of it properly. Nay, -if we regard it too closely, a legion of specialists would be needed. We -have no time to examine the buds and the flowers or the fruit, and the -many marvels of vegetation, or to regard the fine differences between -bark and leaf in the various towering trees around us, or to compare the -different exudations in the viscous or vitrified gums, or which drip in -milky tears or amber globules, or opaline pastils, or to observe the -industrious ants which ascend and descend up and down the tree shafts, -whose deep wrinkles of bark are as valleys and ridges to the insect -armies, or to wait for the furious struggle which will surely ensue -between them and yonder army of red ants. Nor at this time do we care to -probe into that mighty mass of dead tree, brown and porous as a sponge, -for already it is a mere semblance of a prostrate log. Within it is -alive with minute tribes. It would charm an entomologist. Put your ear -to it, and you hear a distinct murmurous hum. It is the stir and -movement of insect life in many forms, matchless in size, glorious in -colour, radiant in livery, rejoicing in their occupations, exultant in -their fierce but brief life, most insatiate of their kind, ravaging, -foraging, fighting, destroying, building, and swarming everywhere and -exploring everything. Lean but your hand on a tree, measure but your -length on the ground, seat yourself on a fallen branch, and you will -then understand what venom, fury, voracity, and activity breathes around -you. Open your notebook, the page attracts a dozen butterflies, a -honey-bee hovers over your hand; other forms of bees dash for your eyes; -a wasp buzzes in your ear, a huge hornet menaces your face, an army of -pismires come marching to your feet. Some are already crawling up, and -will presently be digging their scissor-like mandibles in your neck. -Woe! woe! - -And yet it is all beautiful--but there must be no sitting or lying down -on this seething earth. It is not like your pine groves and your dainty -woods in England. It is a tropic world, and to enjoy it you must keep -slowly moving. - -Imagine the whole of France and the Iberian peninsula closely packed -with trees varying from 20 to 180 feet high, whose crowns of foliage -interlace and prevent any view of sky and sun, and each tree from a few -inches to four feet in diameter. Then from tree to tree run cables from -two inches to fifteen inches in diameter, up and down in loops and -festoons and W's and badly-formed M's; fold them round the trees in -great tight coils, until they have run up the entire height, like -endless anacondas; let them flower and leaf luxuriantly, and mix up -above with the foliage of the trees to hide the sun, then from the -highest branches let fall the ends of the cables reaching near to the -ground by hundreds with frayed extremities, for these represent the air -roots of the Epiphytes; let slender cords hang down also in tassels -with open thread-work at the ends. Work others through and through these -as confusedly as possible, and pendent from branch to branch--with -absolute disregard of material, and at every fork and on every -horizontal branch plant cabbage-like lichens of the largest kind, and -broad spear-leaved plants--these would represent the elephant-eared -plant--and orchids and clusters of vegetable marvels, and a drapery of -delicate ferns which abound. Now cover tree, branch, twig, and creeper -with a thick moss like a green fur. Where the forest is compact as -described above, we may not do more than cover the ground closely with a -thick crop of phrynia, and amoma, and dwarf bush; but if the lightning, -as frequently happens, has severed the crown of a proud tree, and let in -the sunlight, or split a giant down to its roots, or scorched it dead, -or a tornado has been uprooting a few trees, then the race for air and -light has caused a multitude of baby trees to rush upward--crowded, -crushing, and treading upon and strangling one another, until the whole -is one impervious bush. - -But the average forest is a mixture of these scenes. There will probably -be groups of fifty trees standing like columns of a cathedral, grey and -solemn in the twilight, and in the midst there will be a naked and gaunt -patriarch, bleached white, and around it will have grown a young -community, each young tree clambering upward to become heir to the area -of light and sunshine once occupied by the sire. The law of -primogeniture reigns here also. - -There is also death from wounds, sickness, decay, hereditary disease and -old age, and various accidents thinning the forest, removing the unfit, -the weakly, the unadaptable, as among humanity. Let us suppose a tall -chief among the giants, like an insolent son of Anak. By a head he lifts -himself above his fellows--the monarch of all he surveys; but his pride -attracts the lightning, and he becomes shivered to the roots, he -topples, declines, and wounds half a dozen other trees in his fall. This -is why we see so many tumorous excrescences, great goitrous swellings, -and deformed trunks. The parasites again have frequently been outlived -by the trees they had half strangled, and the deep marks of their -forceful pressure may be traced up to the forks. Some have sickened by -intense rivalry of other kinds, and have perished at an immature age; -some have grown with a deep crook in their stems, by a prostrate log -which had fallen and pressed them obliquely. Some have been injured by -branches, fallen during a storm, and dwarfed untimely. Some have been -gnawed by rodents, or have been sprained by elephants leaning on them to -rub their prurient hides, and ants of all kinds have done infinite -mischief. Some have been pecked at by birds, until we see ulcerous sores -exuding great globules of gum, and frequently tall and short nomads have -tried their axes, spears, and knives, on the trees, and hence we see -that decay and death are busy here as with us. - -To complete the mental picture of this ruthless forest, the ground -should be strewn thickly with half formed humus of rotting twigs, -leaves, branches; every few yards there should be a prostrate giant, a -reeking compost of rotten fibres, and departed generations of insects, -and colonies of ants, half veiled with masses of vines and shrouded by -the leafage of a multitude of baby saplings, lengthy briars and calamus -in many fathom lengths, and every mile or so there should be muddy -streams, stagnant creeks, and shallow pools, green with duckweed, leaves -of lotus and lilies, and a greasy green scum composed of millions of -finite growths. Then people this vast region of woods with numberless -fragments of tribes, who are at war with each other and who live apart -from ten to fifty miles in the midst of a prostrate forest, amongst -whose ruins they have planted the plantain, banana, manioc, beans, -tobacco, colocassia, gourds, melons, &c., and who, in order to make -their villages inaccessible, have resorted to every means of defence -suggested to wild men by the nature of their lives. They have planted -skewers along their paths, and cunningly hidden them under an apparently -stray leaf, or on the lee side of a log, by striding over which the -naked foot is pierced, and the intruder is either killed from the poison -smeared on the tops of the skewers, or lamed for months. They have piled -up branches, and have formed abattis of great trees, and they lie in -wait behind with sheaves of poisoned arrows, wooden spears hardened in -fire, and smeared with poison. - -The primeval forest, that is that old growth untouched by man, and left -since the earliest time to thrive and die, one age after another, is -easily distinguishable from that part which at some time or another -afforded shelter for man. The trees are taller and straighter, and of -more colossal girth. It has frequently glades presenting little -difficulty for travel, the invariable obstructions being the arum, -phrynia, and amoma. The ground is firmer and more compact, and the -favourite camping ground for the pigmy nomads are located in such -places. When the plants and small bushes are cut down, we have an airy, -sylvan, and cool temple, delightful for a dwelling. - -Then comes the forest which during a few generations has obliterated all -evidences of former husbandry. A few of the trees, especially of the -soft-wooded kind, have grown to equal height with the ancient -patriarchs, but as soon as man abandoned the clearing, hosts of nameless -trees, shrubs, and plants have riotously hastened to avail themselves of -his absence, and the race for air and light is continued for many years; -consequently the undergrowth by the larger quantity of sunshine becomes -luxuriant, and there are few places penetrable in it without infinite -labour. Among these a variety of palms will be found, especially the -Elais and Raphia vinifera. - -And after this comes the bush proper, the growth of a few years, which -admits no ingress whatever within its shade. We are therefore obliged to -tunnel through stifling masses of young vegetation, so matted and -tangled together that one fancies it would be easier to travel over the -top were it of equal and consistent thickness and level. Vigorous young -trees are found imbedded in these solid and compact masses of -vegetation, and these support the climbing plants, the vines, and -creepers. Under these, after a pathway has been scooped out, the unshod -feet are in danger from the thorns, and the sharp cut stalks, which are -apt to pierce the feet and lacerate the legs. - -This last was the character of the bush mostly near the river. Both -banks presented numberless old clearings and abandoned sites; and as the -stream was the only means of communication employed by the tribes, the -only way of effecting any progress was by laborious cutting. - -The clearings which had been abandoned within a year exhibited veritable -wonders of vegetable life, of unsurpassed fecundity, and bewildering -variety of species. The charred poles of the huts became the supports of -climbers whose vivid green leaves soon shrouded the ugliness of -desolation, and every upright and stump assumed the appearance of a -miniature bower, or a massive piece of columned ruin. As the stumps were -frequently twenty feet high, and were often seen in twins, the plants -had gravitated across the space between, and after embracing had -continued their growth along the length of one another, and had formed -in this manner an umbrageous arch, and had twisted themselves in endless -lengths around the supports until it became difficult to find what -supported such masses of delicate vines. In some instances they had -formed lofty twin towers with an arched gateway between, resembling a -great ruin of an old castle, and the whole was gay with purple and white -flowers. The silvered boles of ancient primeval giants long ago ringed -by the axe and doomed to canker and decay, and the great gaunt -far-spreading arms and branchlets had been clothed by vines a -hundred-fold until they seemed like clouds of vivid green, which, under -the influence of sudden gusts, streamed with countless tendrils, or -swayed like immense curtains. - -When marching along with the column, or encamped for the night, the -murmur of voices was not congenial to nourishing any fine sentiments -about the forest. We suffered too much hunger, and sustained such -protracted misery; we were preyed upon too often in patience, and -temper, and forbearance. Our clothes, suited well enough for open -country, were no protection against the hostilities of the bush. But if -once we absented ourselves from camp, and the voices of the men died -away, and we forgot our miseries, and were not absorbed by the sense of -the many inconveniences, an awe of the forest rushed upon the soul and -filled the mind. The voice sounded with rolling echoes, as in a -cathedral. One became conscious of its eerie strangeness, the absence of -sunshine, its subdued light, and marvelled at the queer feeling of -loneliness, while inquiringly looking around to be assured that this -loneliness was no delusion. It was as if one stood amid the inhabitants -of another world. We enjoyed life--the one vegetable, the other human. -Standing there so massive and colossal, so silent and still, and yet -with such solemn severity of majesty, it did seem curious that the two -lives, so like in some sense, were yet so incommunicable. It would have -suited the fitness of things, I thought, had a wrinkled old patriarch -addressed me with the gravity and seriousness of a Methuselah, or an -Achillean and powerful bombax, with his buttressed feet planted firm in -the ground, had disdainfully demanded my business in that assembly of -stately forest kings. - -But what thoughts were kindled as we peeped out from an opening in the -woods and looked across the darkening river which reflected the -advancing tempest, and caught a view of the mighty army of trees--their -heights as various as their kind, all rigid in the gloaming, awaiting in -stern array the war with the storm. The coming wind has concentrated its -terrors for destruction, the forked lightning is seen darting its spears -of white flame across the front of infinite hosts of clouds. Out of -their depths issues the thunderbolt, and the march of the winds is heard -coming to the onset. Suddenly the trees, which have stood still--as in -a painted canvas--awaiting the shock with secure tranquillity, are seen -to bow their tops in unison, followed by universal swaying and straining -as though a wild panic had seized them. They reel this way and that, but -they are restrained from flight by sturdy stems and fixed roots, and the -strong buttresses which maintain them upright. Pressed backward to a -perilous length they recover from the first blow, and dart their heads -in furious waves forward, and the glory of the war between the forest -and the storm is at its height. Legion after legion of clouds ride over -the wind-tost crests, there is a crashing and roaring, a loud soughing -and moaning, shrill screaming of squalls, and groaning of countless -woods. There are mighty sweeps from the great tree-kings, as though -mighty strokes were being dealt; there is a world-wide rustling of -foliage, as though in gleeful approval of the vast strength of their -sires; there are flashes of pale green light, as the lesser battalions -are roused up to the fight by the example of their brave ancients. Our -own spirits are aroused by the grand conflict--the Berserker rage is -contagious. In our souls we applaud the rush and levelling force of the -wind, and for a second are ready to hail the victor; but the magnificent -array of the forest champions, with streaming locks, the firmness with -which the vast army of trees rise in unison with their leaders, the -rapturous quiver of the bush below inspire a belief that they will win -if they but persevere. The lightning darts here and there with splendour -of light and scathing flame, the thunders explode with deafening -crashes, reverberating with terrible sounds among the army of woods, the -black clouds roll over and darken the prospect; and as cloud becomes -involved within cloud, in the shifting pale light, we have a last view -of the wild war, we are stunned by the fury of the tempest, and the -royal rage of the forest, when down comes the deluge of tropic -rain--which in a short time extinguishes the white heat wrath of the -elements, and soothes to stillness the noble anger of the woods. - -Along the banks of the Aruwimi, a better idea of tropical vegetation -may be obtained than in any part of Africa, outside of the eastern half -of the Congo basin. The banks are for the most part low, though no one -could guess what height they were, because of the lofty hedges of -creeping plants, which cover every inch of ground from the water's edge -to as high as fifty feet above in some places, while immediately behind -them rises the black-green forest to the towering height of from 150 to -200 feet above the river. The aspects of the banks vary considerably -however. Abandoned sites of human dwellings possess their own peculiar -wilderness appearance, the virgin forest its own, and as the soil varies -so do its growths. - -Lately abandoned clearings will show, besides inordinate density of -vegetation, gorgeous flowering sections. Above these will probably rise -a few trees with masses of thick, shining leaves, and a profusion of -blood-red flowers, whose petals have been showered on the impervious -mass of leguminous vines of creepers and shrubs below, and strongly -contrast to their own light purple, yellow, or white flowerets. The -amoma show snowy flower-goblets, edged with pink; a wild vine will have -its light purple; a creeper, with pinnate leaves, though flowerless at -the time, will have its foliage tinted auburn; a pepper bush with its -red pods, or a wild mango, attracts attention by myriads of bead-like -flowerets; or an acacia effuses overpowering fragrance from its snowy -buds, or a mimosa with its sweet-smelling yellow blossoms. Different -shades of green are presented by ferns, protruding leaves of sword -grass, a young Elais palm, or the broad and useful leaf of the phrynium. -A young fig-tree, with silver stem, and branching widely, mixes its -leaves with those of the tender leaflets of the sensitive plant and the -palmate calamus; below is a multitude of nettles, and nettle-leafed -plants with stalks and leaves, making a mass of vegetation at once -curious and delightful. Perhaps the base of all this intricate and -inextricable confusion of plants and impervious hill of verdure and -beauty, is a prostrate tree, long ago fallen, fast decaying, black with -mould, spread thinly with humus, fungous parasites abounding, and every -crack, cranny, and flaw in it nesting all kinds of insatiable insects, -from the tiny termite to the black centipede or mammoth beetle. - -Further on we see something different. Numberless giant trees, pressing -right up to the edge of the river bank, have caused some to grow -horizontally to the length of fifty feet over the river. Under their -shade a hundred canoes find shelter from a scorching sun. The wood is -yellow and hard as iron. To cut one of these trees would require a score -of American axes. It bears clusters of fruit which when unripe are -russet, and afterwards resemble beautiful damsons. Others of the same -species produce a fruit like ripe dates, but neither are edible. - -These widely-spreading trees are favourites with the black wasps, to -which they attach their pensile nests. Externally the nests are like -fancifully cut brown-paper sacks, or a series of such sacks arranged one -above another, with frills and ornate cuttings, like the fancy paper -grate-covers in English parlours in summer time. - -We avoided such trees religiously, and when there was no such terror as -a big nest of wasps near, we could rest in comfort and examine the -forest at leisure. We first saw besides countless grey columns, -thousands of pendent slender threads and wavy lines, loops, festoons, -clustered groups and broad breadths of grey mingled with more than -studied disorder with darkest depths of green, lightened only by broad -damp leaves reflecting stray glints of sunshine or sprays, and a magic -dust of softened light perpetually shifting and playing, profound spaces -of darkness relieved by a breadth of grey tree trunk, silvered rods of -parasites, or fancy grey filigree of vine stems. As we surveyed the -whole, the eye caught various crimson dots of phrynia berries, or red -knots of amoma fruit, outer fringes of auburn leaves, a cap of a -mushroom staring white out of a loose sheaf of delicate ferns, or snowy -bits of hard fungi clinging like barnacles to a deeply-wrinkled log; the -bright green of orchid leaves, the grey green face of a pendent leaf of -an elephant-eared plant--films of moss, tumorous lumps on trees exuding -tears of gum, which swarmed with ants, length after length of whiplike -calamus--squirming and twisting lianes, and great serpent-like -convolvuli, winding in and out by mazy galleries of dark shadows, and -emerging triumphant far above to lean their weight on branches, running -coils at one place, forming loops at another place, and then stretching -loosely their interminable lengths out of sight. - -As I have already said, the forest is typical of the life of humanity. -No single glance can be taken of it without becoming conscious that -decay, and death, and life, are at work there as with us. I never could -cast a leisurely look at it but I found myself, unconsciously, wondering -at some feature which reminded me of some scene in the civilised world. -It has suggested a morning when I went to see the human tide flowing -into the city over London Bridge between half-past seven and half-past -eight, where I saw the pale, overworked, dwarfed, stoop-shouldered, on -their way to their dismal struggle for existence. They were represented -here faithfully, in all their youth, vigour, and decrepitude; one is -prematurely aged and blanched, another is goitrous, another is -organically weak, another is a hunchback, another suffers from poor -nutrition, many are pallid from want of air and sunshine, many are -supported by their neighbours because of constitutional infirmity, many -of them are toppling one over another, as though they were the -incurables of a hospital, and you wonder how they exist at all. Some are -already dead, and lie buried under heaps of leaves, or are nurseries of -bush families and parasites, or are colonised by hordes of destructive -insects; some are bleached white by the palsying thunderbolt, or -shivered by the levin brand, or quite decapitated; or some old veteran, -centuries old, which was born before ever a Christian sailed south of -the Equator, is decaying in core and vitals; but the majority have the -assurance of insolent youth, with all its grace and elegance of form, -the mighty strength of prime life, and the tranquil and silent pride of -hoary old aristocrats; and you gather from a view of the whole one -indisputable fact--that they are resolved to struggle for existence as -long as they may. We see all characters of humanity here, except the -martyr and suicide. For sacrifice is not within tree nature, and it may -be that they only heard two precepts, "Obedience is better than -sacrifice," and "Live and multiply." - -And as there is nothing so ugly and distasteful to me as the mob of a -Derby day, so there is nothing so ugly in forest nature as when I am -reminded of it by the visible selfish rush towards the sky in a -clearing, after it has been abandoned a few years. Hark! the bell -strikes, the race is about to begin. I seem to hear the uproar of the -rush, the fierce, heartless jostling and trampling, the cry, "Self for -self, the devil take the weakest!" To see the white-hot excitement, the -noisy fume and flutter, the curious inequalities of vigour, and the -shameless disregard for order and decency! - -It is worth pausing also to ask why small incidents in such an out of -the way place as the trackless depths of a primeval forest should remind -one of thoughts of friends and their homes in England. The melancholy -sound of the wind fluttering the leafy world aloft, and the sad rustle -of the foliage reminded me vividly of a night spent at--- House, where I -passed half the time listening to the dreadful sighing of the rooky -grove, which filled my mind with forlornness and discomfort. Here again, -as I lay in my tent, were suggested memories of ocean gales, and general -cold, pitiful wretchedness, and when the rain fell in an earnest shower -and the heavy fall of raindrops roused the deep and funereal dirge that -sounded round about me, it seemed to me I heard sad and doleful echoes -of sad and unsatisfied longings, and crowds of unworded thoughts, and -past aspirations, unbreathed sentiments of love, friendship, and -unuttered sympathies advancing with awful distinctness to the sharpened -imagination, until one seemed ready to dissolve in tears and gasp -sobbingly, "Oh, my friends, the good God is above all, and knows all -things!" - -These are a few secrets of the woods that one learns in time, even -without a mentor in forestry. To know that the Elais palm while -requiring moisture requires plenty of sunshine to flourish, that the -Raphia palm flourishes best by the sedge-lined swamp and stenchful -sewery ooze, that the Calamus palm requires a thick bush for its -support, that the Phoenix spinosa thrives best by the waterside, and that -the Fan palm is killed by excessive moisture, is not difficult to learn. -But for a stranger in tropic woods, accustomed to oak, beech, poplar, -and pine, he is somewhat mazed at the unfamiliar leafage above him. -By-and-by, however, he can tell at a glance which are the soft and hard -woods. There are several families of soft woods, which stand in place of -the pine and fir in the tropics, and these have invariably large leaves. -It seems to be a rule that the soft woods shall have large leaves, and -the hard woods shall have smaller leaves, though they vary according to -their degrees of strength and durability. The trees of the Rubiaceae -order, for instance, have leaves almost similar in form and size to the -castor-oil plant. The wood is most useful and workable, fit to build -fleets of wooden vessels, or to be turned into beautiful domestic -utensils--trays, benches, stools, troughs, wooden milk-pots, platters, -mugs, spoons, drums, &c. It serves for boarding, ceiling, doors, fences, -and palisades. Though it is brittle as cedar it will stand any amount of -weather without splitting. There are more than one species of what is -known as cotton-wood, but you may know them all by the magnificent -buttresses, and their unsurpassed height, by the silver grey of their -bark, and by the stiff thorns on their stems, by the white floss of -their flowering and grey-green leaves. - -Then there is the strong African teak, the camwood, the African -mahogany, the green-heart, the lignum vitae, the everlasting iron-wood, -the no less hard yellow wood by the riverside, infinitely harder than an -oak; the stink-wood, the ebony, the copal-wood tree with its glossy and -burnished foliage, the arborescent wild mango, the small-leaved wild -orange, the silver-boled wild fig, the butter tree, the acacia tribes, -the stately mpafu, and the thousands of wild fruit-trees, most of which -are unknown to me. Therefore, to understand what this truly tropical -forest is like you must imagine all these confusedly mixed together, and -lashed together by millions of vines, creepers, and giant convolvuli, -until a perfect tangle has been formed, and sunshine quite shut out, -except a little flickering dust of light here and there to tell you that -the sun is out in the sky like a burning lustrous orb. - -Considering how many months we were in the forest, the hundreds of miles -we travelled through and through it, it is not the least wonder that an -accident never befell one of the Expedition from the beginning to the -end of our life in it, from the fall of a branch or a tree. Trees have -fallen immediately before the van, and directly after the rear guard had -passed; they have suddenly crashed to the earth on our flanks, and near -the camps, by night as well as by day. The nearest escape we had was -soon after we had landed from our boat one day, when a great ruin -dropped into the river close to the stern, raising the boat up high with -the mound of water raised by it, and spraying the crew who were at work. - -Many people have already questioned me respecting the game in the -forest. Elephant, buffalo, wild pig, bush antelopes, coneys, gazelles, -chimpanzees, baboons, monkeys of all kinds, squirrels, civets, wild -cats, genets, zebra--ichneumons, large rodents, are among the few we -know to exist within the woods. The branches swarm with birds and bats, -the air is alive with their sailing and soaring forms, the river teems -with fish and bivalves, oysters and clams; there are few crocodiles and -hippopotami also. But we must remember that all the tribes of the forest -are naturally the most vicious and degraded of the human race on the -face of the earth, though in my opinion they are quite as capable of -improvement as the wild Caledonian, and susceptible of transformation -into orderly and law-abiding peoples. The forest, however, does not -admit of amicable intercourse. Strangers cannot see one another until -they suddenly encounter, and are mutually paralysed with surprise at the -fact. Instinctively they raise their weapons. One has a sheaf of arrows -to kill game, and a poison as deadly as prussic acid; the other has a -gun which sends a bullet with such force that the frontal bone is -instantly smashed. Supposing that one at least of the parties is so -amiable as to allow the other to kill him; his friends would dub him a -fool, and nothing has been gained. The dead man's friends must feel -called upon to avenge him, and will hunt the murderer too. Fortunately, -these buried peoples contrive to learn news of any strangers, and -disappear generally in time before their villages are reached. But how -far they have retreated, or how near they may be, is unknown; -consequently as they are in the habit of eating what they kill it would -not be safe for a small hunting party to set out to search for game. -That is one reason why there were no animals hunted. - -Secondly, it is not every person who has the gift of finding his way in -a forest. A dozen times on a day's march I had to correct the course of -the van. Even such a grand landmark as a river was not sufficient to -serve as a guide to the course. Within 200 yards any man in the -Expedition, if he were turned about a little, would be bewildered to -find his way back to the place whence he started. - -Thirdly, a small party would make too much noise in breaking of twigs, -in treading upon crisp leaves, in brushing against bush, or in cutting a -vine or a creeper to make headway. A wild animal is warned long before -the hunters know that it is near them, and bounds away to distant -coverts. We have suddenly come across elephants, but when they were -within ten yards of us they have crashed their way through a jungle that -was impervious to pursuers. As for buffalo and other game, their tracks -were very common, but it would have been madness to have pursued them -for the above three reasons alone. - -Fourthly, we had too serious an object in view, which was to discover -food and where we were most likely to get it--not for a small party, but -for all. - -As for birds, they made clatter enough overhead, but we were in the -basement, and they were on the roof of a fifteen-storey house. They -could not be seen at all, though their whistlings, warblings, -screamings, and hootings were heard everywhere. There were parrots, -ibis, touracos, parraquets, sunbirds, swifts, finches, shrikes, -whip-poor-wills, hoopoes, owls, guinea fowl, blackbirds, weavers, -kingfishers, divers, fish eagles, kites, wagtails, bee-eaters, pipits, -sandpipers, cockatoos, hornbills, jays, barbets, woodpeckers, pigeons, -and unknown minute tribes, and millions of large and small bats. - -The Simian tribe was well represented. I have caught sight of more than -a dozen species. I have seen the colobus, dark and grey furred baboons, -small black monkeys, galagos and flying squirrels, and others, but not -nearer than a hundred yards. Long before we could reach them they had -been alarmed by the murmur of the caravan, and commenced the retreat. - -We came across a number of reptiles. The Ituri swarms with water snakes -of various lengths. They continued to drop frequently very close to our -boat, slender green whip-snakes, others lead colour of formidable size; -others green, gold and black, six feet long. We saw pythons, puff -adders, horned and fanged snakes, while small bush snakes about two feet -long often fell victims during the preparation of camps. - -Insects would require a whole book. Never have I seen such countless -armies and species as during my various marches through this forest. I -should consider it _infra dig._ to refer to those minute creatures after -the lavish abuses I, in common with others of the Expedition, have -bestowed on them. I recollect but few hours of daylight that I did not -express myself unkindly towards them. Those bees, large and small, the -wasps, the hordes of moths by night, the house-flies, tsetse, gadflies, -gnats, and butterflies by day, the giant beetles, attracted by the -light in the tent, sailing through the darkness, and dashing frantically -against the canvas, rebounding in their rage from side to side, and all -the time hoarsely booming, finally with roars of fury dashing themselves -against my book or face, as though they would wreak vengeance on me for -some reason; then the swarms of ants peering into my plate, intruding -into my washy soup, crawling over my bananas, the crickets that sprang -like demons, and fixed themselves in my scalp, or on my forehead; the -shrill cicadae that drove one mad, worse than the peppo-inspired Manyuema -women. The Pasha professes to love these tribes, and I confess I have -done as much mischief to them as possible. - -The small bees of the size of gnats were the most tormenting of all the -species; we became acquainted with four. They are of the Mellipona. To -read, write, or eat required the devoted services of an attendant to -drive them away. The eyes were their favourite points of attack; but the -ears and nostrils also were sensitive objects to which they invariably -reverted. The donkeys' legs were stripped bare of hair, because of these -pests. The death of one left an odour of bitter almonds on the hand. - -The beetles, again, varied from the size of a monstrous two-and-a-half -inches in length to an insect that would have bored through the eye of a -tailor's needle. This last when examined through a magnifying glass -seemed to be efficiently equipped for troubling humanity. It burrowed -into the skin. It could not be discovered by the eyes unless attention -was directed by giving a cross rub with the hand, when a pain like the -prick of a pin was felt. The natives' huts were infested with three -peculiar species. One burrowed into one's body, another bored into the -rafters and dropped fine sawdust into the soup, another explored among -the crisp leaves of the roof and gave one a creeping fear that there -were snakes about; a fourth, which was a roaring lion of a beetle, -waited until night and then made it impossible to keep a candle lit for -a quiet pipe and meditation. - -[Sidenote: 1888. Dec. Forest.] - -Among the minor unpleasantnesses which we had to endure we may mention -the "jigger," which deposited its eggs under the toenails of the most -active men, but which attacked the body of a "goee-goee" and made him a -mass of living corruption; the little beetle that dived underneath the -skin and pricked one as with a needle; the mellipona bee, that troubled -the eyes, and made one almost frantic some days; the small and large -ticks that insidiously sucked one's small store of blood; the wasps, -which stung one into a raging fever if some careless idiot touched the -tree, or shouted near their haunts; the wild honey-bees, which one day -scattered two canoe crews, and punished them so that we had to send a -detachment of men to rescue them; the tiger-slug, that dropped from the -branches and left his poisonous fur in the pores of the body until one -raved from the pain; the red ants, that invaded the camp by night and -disturbed our sleep, and attacked the caravan half a score of times on -the march, and made the men run faster than if pursued by so many -pigmies; the black ants, which infested the trumpet tree, and dropped on -us when passing underneath, and gave us all a foretaste of the Inferno; -the small ants that invaded every particle of food, which required great -care lest we might swallow half a dozen inadvertently, and have the -stomach membranes perforated or blistered--small as they were, they were -the most troublesome, for in every tunnel made through the bush -thousands of them housed themselves upon us, and so bit and stung us -that I have seen the pioneers covered with blisters as from nettles; -and, of course, there were our old friends the mosquitos in numbers in -the greater clearings. - -But if we were bitten and stung by pismires and numberless tribes of -insects by day, which every one will confess is as bad as being whipped -with nettles, the night had also its alarms, terrors, and anxieties. In -the dead of night, when the entire caravan was wrapped in slumber, a -series of explosions would wake every one. Some tree or another was -nightly struck by lightning, and there was a danger that half the camp -might be mangled by the fall of one; the sound of the branches during a -storm was like the roar of breakers, or the rolling of a surge on the -shore. When the rain fell no voice could be heard in the camp, it was -like a cataract with its din of falling waters. Each night almost a dead -tree fell with startling crackle, and rending and rushing, ending with -the sound which shook the earth. - -There were trees parting with a decayed member, and the fall of it made -the forest echo with its crash as though it were a fusillade of -musketry. The night winds swayed the branches and hurled them against -each other, amid a chorus of creaking stems, and swinging cables and -rustle of leaves. Then there was the never-failing crick of the cricket, -and the shriller but not less monotonous piping call of the cicadae, and -the perpetual chorus of frogs; there was the doleful cry of the lemur to -his mate, a harsh, rasping cry which made night hideous, and loneliness -and darkness repulsive. There was a chimpanzee at solitary exercise -amusing himself with striking upon a tree like the little boys at home -rattle a stick against the area railings. There were the midnight troops -of elephants, who no doubt were only prevented from marching right over -us by the scores of fires scattered about the camp. - -Considering the number of sokos or chimpanzees in this great forest, it -is rather a curious fact that not one of the Expedition saw one alive. -My terrier "Randy" hunted them almost every day between Ipoto and -Ibwiri, and one time was severely handled. I have heard their notes four -several times, and have possessed a couple of their skulls, one of which -I gave to the Pasha; the other, that I was obliged to leave at the time, -was monstrously large. - -In 1887 rain fell during eight days in July, ten days in August, -fourteen days in September, fifteen days in October, seventeen days in -November, and seven days in December, = seventy-one days. From the 1st -of June, 1887, to the 31st of May, 1888, there were 138 days, or 569 -hours of rain. We could not measure the rain in the forest in any other -way than by time. We shall not be far wrong if we estimate this forest -to be the rainiest zone on the earth. - -For nine months of the year the winds blow from the South Atlantic along -the course of the Congo, and up the Aruwimi. They bear the moisture of -the sea, and the vapours exhaled by a course of 1400 miles of a river -which spreads from half-a-mile to sixteen miles wide, and meeting on -their easterly course the cold atmosphere prevailing at the high -altitude they descend upon the forest almost every alternate day in -copious showers of rain. This forest is also favourably situated to -receive the vapours exhaled by Lakes Tanganika, the Albert Edward, and -Albert Lakes. While standing in the plain on the verge of the forest, I -have seen the two rain clouds, one from the westward and one from the -eastward, collide and dissolve in a deluge of rain on Pisgah Mount and -the surrounding country. Besides the rains, which lasted ten or twelve -hours at a time during our march from Yambuya to Fort Bodo, we had -frequent local showers of short duration. When these latter fell we were -sure that some lofty hill was in the neighbourhood, which had -intercepted a portion of the vapour drifting easterly, and liquified it -for the benefit of the neighbourhood. The rear-guard of the caravan was -sometimes plunged in misery by a heavy rainfall while the pioneers were -enjoying the effects of sunshine above their heads. It occurred at -Mabengu Rapids, and at Engwedde. Being in the depths of the forest we -could not see any sign of a hill, but such sudden showers betrayed the -presence of one in the vicinity. When well away from these localities we -would sometimes look behind down a straight stretch of river, and hilly -masses 500 feet above the river were revealed to us. - -[Illustration: A PAGE FROM MR. STANLEY'S NOTE-BOOK.] - -The Ituri or Upper Aruwimi is therefore seldom very low. We have seen it -in July about six feet below high-water mark. In October one night it -rose a foot; it is highest in November, and lowest in December. But -it is a stream that constantly fluctuates, and pours an immense -volume of water into the Congo. In length of course it is about 700 -miles, rising to the south of that group of hills known as the -Travellers' Group, and called Mounts Speke, Schweinfurth, and Junker. -Its basin covers an area of 67,000 square miles. - -On the north side of the basin we have heard of the Ababua, Mabode, -Momvu, and the Balesse, to the south are the Bakumu and Baburu. These -are the principal tribes, which are subdivided into hundreds of smaller -tribes. The language of the Bakumu which is to be found inland east of -Stanley Falls, is known as far as Panga Falls, with slight dialectic -variations among the Baburu. The language of Momvu is spoken between -Panga Falls and the Ngaiyu. East of that we found that the language of -the Balesse took us as far as Indenduru, beyond that was a separate and -distinct language spoken by the Babusesse. But we found sub-tribes in -each section who professed not to understand what was said to them from -natives two camps removed from them. - -All the tribes from the Atlantic Ocean to East Longitude 30 deg. in the -Equatorial region have a distant resemblance of features and customs, -but I should place East Longitude 18 deg. as the divisional line of -longitude between two families of one original parent race. Across -twelve degrees of longitude, we have hundreds of tribes bearing a most -close resemblance to one another. What Schweinfurth and Junker, Emin and -Casati, have said about the Monbuttu, Niam Niam, and Momvu, may with a -few fine shades of difference, be said about the Bangala, the Wyyanzi, -the Batomba, the Basoko, the Baburu, the Bakumu, and Balesse. One tribe -more compact in organisation may possess a few superior characteristics -to one which has suffered misfortunes, and been oppressed by more -powerful neighbours, but in the main I see no difference whatever. They -own no cattle, but possess sheep, goats, and domestic fowls. One tribe -may be more partial to manioc, but they all cultivate the plantain and -banana. Their dresses all alike are of bark cloth, their headdresses -are nearly similar, though one tribe may be more elaborate in the mode -of dressing theirs than another. Some of them practise circumcision, and -they are addicted to eating the flesh of their enemies. Their weapons -are nearly the same--the broad razor-sharp spear, the double-edged and -pointed knife, the curious two-or four-bladed knives, their curved -swords; their small bows and short arrows; their stools, benches, and -back-rests; their ear-rings, bracelets, armlets and leglets; their great -war-drums and little tom-toms, their war-horns; their blacksmiths' and -carpenters' tools. - -In the architecture of their houses there is a great difference; in the -tattooing, facial marks, and their upper lip ornaments they also differ; -but these are often due to the desire to distinguish tribes, though they -do not show a difference of race. If one could travel in a steamer from -Equatorville on the Congo to Indesura on the Upper Ituri, and see the -various communities on the river banks from the deck, the passengers -would be struck, not only by the similarity of dress and equipments, but -also of complexion; whereas were a colony of Soudanese, Zanzibaris, -Wanyamwezi to be seen accidentally among those communities, the stranger -might easily distinguish them as being foreign to the soil. - -This region, which embraces twelve degrees of longitude, is mainly -forest, though to the west it has several reaches of grass-land, and -this fact modifies the complexion considerably. The inhabitants of the -true forest are much lighter in colour than those of the grass-land. -They are inclined normally to be coppery, while some are as light as -Arabs, and others are dark brown, but they are all purely negroid in -character. Probably this lightness of colour may be due to a long -residence through generations in the forest shades, though it is likely -to have been the result of an amalgamation of an originally black and -light coloured race. When we cross the limits of the forest and enter -the grass-land we at once remark, however, that the tribes are much -darker in colour. - -[Illustration: SPEARS.] - -[Illustration: POT.] - -[Illustration: STOOL.] - -[Illustration: PLAY-TABLE.] - -[Illustration: STOOL.] - -Among these forest tribes we have observed some singularly prepossessing -faces, and we have observed others uncommonly low and degraded. However -incorrigibly fierce in temper, detestable in their disposition, and -bestial in habits these wild tribes may be to-day, there is not one of -them which does not contain germs, and by whose means at some future -date civilisation may spread, and with it those manifold blessings -inseparable from it. I was much struck with the personal appearance and -replies of some captives of Engwedde, with whom, as they knew the -language of Momvu, I was able to converse. I asked them if they were in -the habit of fighting strangers always. Said they, "What do strangers -want from us? we have nothing. We have only plantains, palms, and fish." -"But supposing strangers wished to buy plantains, palm oil, and fish -from you, would you sell them?" "We have never seen any strangers -before. Each tribe keeps to its own place until it comes to fight with -us for some reason." "Do you always fight your neighbours?" "No; some of -our young men go into the woods to hunt game, and they are surprised by -our neighbours; then we go to them, and they come to fight us until one -party is tired, or one is beaten." "Well, will you be friends with me if -I send you back to your village?" They looked incredulous, and when they -were actually escorted out of the camp with cowries in their hands, they -simply stood still and refused to go fearing some trap. It seemed -incredible to them that they should not be sacrificed. One returned to -my tent, and was greeted kindly as an old acquaintance, received a few -bananas, deliberately went to a fire and roasted them, weighing in his -mind, I suppose, meanwhile, what it all meant; after refreshing himself, -he lit his pipe, and walked away with an assumed composure. Three trips -past that settlement, and their confidence would have been gained for -ever. - -Scattered among the Balesse, between Ipoto and Mount Pisgah, and -inhabiting the land situated between the Ngaiyu and Ituri Rivers, a -region equal in area to about two-thirds of Scotland, are the Wambutti, -variously called Batwa, Akka, and Bazungu. These people are undersized -nomads, dwarfs, or pigmies, who live in the uncleared virgin forest, and -support themselves on game, which they are very expert in catching. They -vary in height from three feet to four feet six inches. A full-grown -adult male may weigh ninety pounds. They plant their village camps at a -distance of from two to three miles around a tribe of agricultural -aborigines, the majority of whom are fine stalwart people. A large -clearing may have as many as eight, ten, or twelve separate communities -of these little people settled around them, numbering in the aggregate -from 2,000 to 2,500 souls. With their weapons, little bows and arrows, -the points of which are covered thickly with poison, and spears, they -kill elephants, buffalo, and antelope. They sink pits, and cunningly -cover them with light sticks and leaves, over which they sprinkle earth -to disguise from the unsuspecting animals the danger below them. They -build a shed-like structure, the roof being suspended with a vine, and -spread nuts or ripe plantains underneath, to tempt the chimpanzees, -baboons, and other simians within, and by a slight movement, the shed -falls, and the animals are captured. Along the tracks of civets, -mephitis, ichneumons, and rodents are bow traps fixed, which, in the -scurry of the little animals, are snapped and strangle them. Besides the -meat and hides to make shields, and furs, and ivory of the slaughtered -game, they catch birds to obtain their feathers; they collect honey from -the woods, and make poison, all of which they sell to the larger -aborigines for plantains, potatoes, tobacco, spears, knives, and arrows. -The forest would soon be denuded of game if the pigmies confined -themselves to the few square miles around a clearing; they are therefore -compelled to move, as soon as it becomes scarce, to other settlements. - -[Illustration: ARROWS OF THE DWARFS.] - -[Illustration: ELEPHANT TRAP.] - -They perform other services to the agricultural and larger class of -aborigines. They are perfect scouts, and contrive, by their better -knowledge of the intricacies of the forest, to obtain early intelligence -of the coming of strangers, and to send information to their settled -friends. They are thus like voluntary picquets guarding the clearings -and settlements. Every road from any direction runs through their camps. -Their villages command every cross-way. Against any strange natives, -disposed to be aggressive, they would combine with their taller -neighbours, and they are by no means despicable allies. When arrows are -arrayed against arrows, poison against poison, and craft against craft, -probably the party assisted by the pigmies would prevail. Their -diminutive size, superior wood-craft, their greater malice, would make -formidable opponents. This the agricultural natives thoroughly -understand. They would no doubt wish on many occasions that the little -people would betake themselves elsewhere, for the settlements are -frequently outnumbered by the nomad communities. For small and often -inadequate returns of fur and meat, they must allow the pigmies free -access to their plantains, groves, and gardens. In a word, no nation on -the earth is free from human parasites, and the tribes of the Central -African forest have much to bear from these little fierce people who -glue themselves to their clearings, flatter them when well fed, but -oppress them with their extortions and robberies. - -The pigmies arrange their dwellings--low structures of the shape of an -oval figure cut lengthways; the doors are from two feet to three feet -high, placed at the ends--in a rough circle, the centre of which is left -cleared for the residence of the chief and his family, and as a common. -About 100 yards in advance of the camp, along every track leading out of -it, is placed the sentry-house, just large enough for two little men, -with the doorway looking up the track. If we assumed that native -caravans ever travelled between Ipoto and Ibwiri, for instance, we -should imagine, from our knowledge of these forest people, that the -caravan would be mulcted of much of its property by these nomads, whom -they would meet in front and rear of each settlement, and as there are -ten settlements between the two points, they would have to pay toll -twenty times, in tobacco, salt, iron, and rattan, cane ornaments, axes, -knives, spears, arrows, adzes, rings, &c. We therefore see how utterly -impossible it would be for the Ipoto people to have even heard of -Ibwiri, owing to the heavy turnpike tolls and octroi duties that would -be demanded of them if they ventured to undertake a long journey of -eighty miles. It will also be seen why there is such a diversity of -dialects, why captives were utterly ignorant of settlements only twenty -miles away from them. - -As I have said, there are two species of these pigmies, utterly -dissimilar in complexion, conformation of the head, and facial -characteristics. Whether Batwa forms one nation and Wambutti another we -do not know, but they differ as much from each other as a Turk would -from a Scandinavian. The Batwa have longish heads and long narrow faces, -reddish, small eyes, set close together, which give them a somewhat -ferrety look, sour, anxious, and querulous. The Wambutti have round -faces, gazelle-like eyes, set far apart, open foreheads, which give one -an impression of undisguised frankness, and are of a rich yellow, ivory -complexion. The Wambutti occupy the southern half of the district -described, the Batwa the northern, and extend south-easterly to the -Awamba forests on both banks of the Semliki River, and east of the -Ituri. - -The life in their forest villages partakes of the character of the -agricultural classes. The women perform all the work of collecting fuel -and provisions, and cooking, and the transport of the goods of the -community. The men hunt, and fight, and smoke, and conduct the tribal -politics. There is always some game in the camp, besides furs and -feathers and hides. They have nets for fish and traps for small game to -make. The youngsters must always be practising with the bow and arrow, -for we have never come across one of their villages without finding -several miniature bows and blunt-headed arrows. There must be free use -of axes also, for the trees about bear many a mark which could only have -been done to try their edge. In every camp we have seen deep incisions -in a tree several inches deep, and perhaps 500 yards from the camp a -series of diamond cuttings in a root of a tree across the track, which, -when seen, informed us that we were approaching a village of the -Wambutti pigmies. - -[Illustration: A DWARF VILLAGE.] - -Two Egyptians, a corporal and a Cairo boy of fifteen, both light -complexioned, were captured near Fort Bodo during my absence, and no -one discovered what became of them. It is supposed they were made -prisoners, like young Nassamonians of old. I have often wondered what -was done to them, and what the feelings of both were--they were devout -Mussulmans--after they were taken to the Wambutti's camp. I fancy they -must have been something similar to those of Robert Baker, a sailor, in -1562-- - - "If cannibals they be - In kind, we do not know, - But if they be, then welcome we, - To pot straightway we goe. - They naked goe likewise, - For shame, we cannot so; - We cannot live after their guise, - Thus naked for to go. - By roots and leaves they live, - As beasts do in the wood: - Among these heathen who can thrive, - On this so wilde a food?" - -One of the poisons employed by the tribes of the forest to smear their -weapons, in order to make them more deadly, is a dark substance of the -colour and consistency of pitch. It is supposed--if native women may be -trusted--to be made out of a species of arum, a very common plant, with -large leaves, found in any quantity between Fort Bodo and Indesura. Its -smell, when fresh, reminds one of the old blister plaster. That it is -deadly there can be no doubt. They kill the elephants and other big game -with it, as certainly as these animals could be slain with bone-crushing -rifles. That they do kill elephants is proved by the vast stores of -ivory collected by Ugarrowwa, Kilonga-Longa, and Tippu-Tib, and each -adult warrior has a waist-belt, or a shoulder-belt, to suspend his -dagger and skinning-knife, and every mother who carries her child and -every wife who carries a basket has need of broad forehead-straps, made -out of buffalo hide, to bear her load on her back. - -[Sidenote: 1888. Dec. Forest.] - -The poison is not permitted to be manufactured in a village. It seems to -be a necessity, to prevent fatal accidents, that the poison should be -prepared in the bush. It is then laid on the iron arrows thickly, and -into the splints of the hard wooden arrows. - -Another poison is of a pale gluey colour. At Avisibba we discovered -several baskets of dried red ants among the rafters, and I conjectured, -from their resemblance in colour to the deadly poison which the -Avisibbas used, that it must have been made by crushing them into a fine -powder, and mixing it with palm oil. If one of these insects can raise a -blister on the skin of the size of a groat, what may not the powder of -mummied insects of the same species effect? If this pale poison be of -this material, one must confess that, in the forest, they possess -endless supplies of other insects still worse, such as the long black -ants which infest the trumpet tree, a bite from one of which can only be -compared to cautery from a red hot iron. But whatever it be, we have -great faith in a strong hypodermic injection of carbonate of ammonium, -and it may be that stronger doses of morphia than any that I ventured -upon might succeed in conquering the fatal tetanic spasms which followed -every puncture and preceded death. - -When one of these poisons is fresh its consequences are rapid. There is -excessive faintness, palpitation of the heart, nausea, pallor, and beads -of perspiration break out over the body, and death ensues. One man died -within one minute from a mere pin-hole, which pierced the right arm and -right breast. A headman died within an hour and a quarter after being -shot. A woman died during the time that she was carried a distance of -one hundred paces; another woman died within twenty minutes; one man -died within three hours; two others died after one hundred hours had -elapsed. These various periods indicate that some poisons were fresh and -others had become dry. Most of these wounds were sucked and washed and -syringed, but evidently some of the poison was left, and caused death. - -To render the poison ineffective, a strong emetic should be given, -sucking and syringing should be resorted to, and a heavy solution of -carbonate of ammonium should be injected into the wound, assuming that -the native antidote was unknown. - -As there is no grass throughout the forest region, the natives would be -put to hard shifts to cover their houses were it not for the invaluable -phrynia leaves, which grow everywhere, but most abundantly in the -primeval woods. These leaves are from a foot to twenty inches in -diameter, are attached to slender straight stalks from three to seven -feet high. Both stalks and leaves are useful in the construction of -native huts and camps. The fruit is like red cherries, but the rinds are -not eaten, though the kernels are often eaten to "deceive the stomach." - -The wild fruits of the forest are various, and having been sustained -through so many days of awful famine, it would be well to describe such -as we found useful. We owe most to a fine stately tree with small -leaves, which grows in large numbers along the south banks of the Ituri -between East Long. 28 deg. and 29 deg.. Its fruit lies in pods about ten inches -long, and which contain four heart-shaped beans called "makweme," an -inch and a quarter long by an inch broad and half an inch thick. It has -a tough dove-coloured skin which when cut shows a reddish inner skin. -When this latter is scraped away the bean may be bruised, mashed, or -boiled whole. It is better bruised, because, as the bean is rather -leathery, it has a better chance of being cooked to be digestible. The -pigmies taught us the art, and it may be well conceived that they have -had often need of it to support life during their forest wanderings. - -In the neighbourhood of these wood-bean trees grew a bastard bread-fruit -called _fenessi_ by the Zanzibaris, the fruit of which is as large as a -water-melon. When ripe we found it delightful and wholesome. - -On a higher level, as we followed the Ituri up from 1 deg. 6' to Lat. 1 deg. -47', we found the _spondia_ or hog-plums, a yellow, fragrant fruit with -a large stone. An india-rubber vine produced a pear-shaped fruit which, -though of delicious odour, was the cause of much nausea; a fruit also of -the size of a crab-apple, with an insipid sweetness about it, assisted -to maintain life. Then there were some nuts like horse-chestnuts which -we found the pigmies partial to, but we cannot speak very highly of -them. Besides the cherry-like berries of the phrynia, the kernels of -which were industriously sought after, were the rich red fruit of the -amoma, within whose husks is found an acid sweet pulp, and the grains of -paradise which were first introduced to England in the year 1815. The -berries of the calamus, or rattan, were also eaten, but they were -difficult to get. Figs also were tried, but they were not very tempting, -though anything to disguise hunger and to "deceive the stomach" found -favour. Even the cola nuts were eaten, but more for the sake of -expectoration than for the sake of pandering to the digestive organs. - -Among other articles to which we were reduced were white ants, -slugs--not the tiger-slug--snails, crabs, tortoises, roast field-rats, -and the siluroids of the streams. - -The domestic animals of the natives were principally confined to a fine -breed of goats, dogs--of the usual pariah order, but vari-coloured. We -saw only one domestic cat, and that was a brindled animal, and very -tame, but kept in a cage. - -It struck me as curious that while nearly all the Madis were attacked -with guinea worms, which rendered them utterly unfit for work, not one -Zanzibari suffered from them. The Madis' medicine for these was simply -oil or fat rubbed over the inflammation, which served to cause the worm -to withdraw from the leg. At one time, however, we had fifteen cases of -mumps among the Zanzibaris, but they used no medicine except rubbing the -swollen face with flour and water. Numbers of Manyuema, natives, and -Madis, unvaccinated and uninoculated, fell victims to variola; but only -four Zanzibaris were attacked with the disease, only one of which was -fatal, and two of them were not so much indisposed as to plead being -relieved from duties. - -Respecting the productions of the forest I have written at such length -in "The Congo and the Founding of its Free State" that it is unnecessary -to add any more here. I will only say that when the Congo Railway has -been constructed, the products of the great forest will not be the -least valuable of the exports of the Congo Independent State. The -natives, beginning at Yambuya, will easily be induced to collect the -rubber, and when one sensible European has succeeded in teaching them -what the countless vines, creepers, and tendrils of their forest can -produce, it will not be long before other competitors will invade the -silent river, and invoke the aid of other tribes to follow the example -of the Baburu. - - - - -CHAPTER XXIV. - -IMPRISONMENT OF EMIN PASHA AND MR. JEPHSON. - - Our reception at Fort Bodo--Lieut. Stairs' report of what took - place at the Fort during our relief of the rear column--No news of - Jephson--Muster of our men--We burn the Fort and advance to find - Emin and Jephson--Camp at Kandekore--Parting words to Lieut. Stairs - and Surgeon Parke, who are left in charge of the sick--Mazamboni - gives us news of Emin and Jephson--Old Gavira escorts us--Two - Wahuma messengers bring letters from Emin and Jephson--Their - contents--My replies to the same handed to Chief Mogo for - delivery--The Balegga attack us, but, with the help of the Bavira, - are repulsed--Mr. Jephson turns up--We talk of Emin--Jephson's - report bearing upon the revolt of the troops of Equatoria, also his - views respecting the invasion of the province by the Mahdists, and - its results--Emin Pasha sends through Mr. Jephson an answer to my - last letter. - -[Sidenote: 1888. - -Dec. 20. - -Fort Bodo.] - -Those who have read the pitiful tale of the rear column will no doubt be -curious to know how we re-entered Fort Bodo, which was only garrisoned -with fifty-nine rifles, after six months' absence. With my heart filled -with joy and gratitude I was escorted up the western avenue, glad men -leaping around me like spaniels, the Doctor imparting the most cheery -news; prosperous fields of corn on either hand, and goodly crops -everywhere; fenced squares, a neat village, clean streets, and every one -I met--white and black--in perfect health, except a few incurables. -Nelson was quite recovered, the dark shadow of the starvation camp was -entirely gone, and the former martial tread and manly bearing had been -regained; and Stairs, the officer _par excellence_, was precisely what -he ought to have been--the one who always obeyed and meant to obey. - -Lieutenant Stairs possessed 24,000 ears of corn in his granary, the -plantation was still bearing plantains and sweet potatoes and beans, -there was a good crop of tobacco; the stream in the neighbourhood -supplied fish--siluroids--and between officers and men there existed the -very best of feeling. He had not been free from trouble; troops of -elephants had invaded the fort, native plunderers by night had robbed -him of stores of tobacco, a mild benevolence had brought on the -plantation a host of pygmies, but at once alertness and firmness had -made him respected and feared by pigmies, aborigines, and Zanzibaris, -and in every wise suggestion his comrades had concurred and aided him. -The admirable and welcome letter herewith given speaks for itself-- - -Fort Bodo, Ibwiri, Central Africa, -_21st December, 1888_. - -H. M. STANLEY, ESQ., -Command of Emin Pasha Relief Expedition. - - SIR, - - I have the honour to report that, in accordance with your letter of - instructions, dated Fort Bodo, June 13th, 1888, I took over the - charge of Fort Bodo and its garrison. - - The strength of the garrison was then as follows:--Officers, 3; - Zanzibaris, 51; Soudanese, 5; Madis, 5; total, 64. - - Soon after your departure from Yambuya, the natives in the - immediate vicinity became excessively bold and aggressive; gangs of - them would come into the plantations nearly every day searching for - plantains, and at last a party of them came into the gardens east - of the Fort at night-time and made off with a quantity of tobacco - and beans. On the night of the 21st August they again attempted to - steal more tobacco; this time, however, the sentries were on the - alert. The lesson they received had the effect of making the - natives less bold, but still our bananas were being taken at a - great rate. I now found it necessary to send out three parties of - patrols per week; these had as much as they could do to keep out - the natives and elephants. If fires were not made every few days - the elephants came into the bananas, and would destroy in a single - night some acres of plantation. - - By November 1st we had got the natives well in hand, and at this - time I do not believe a single native camp exists within eight - miles of the Fort. Those natives to the S.S.E. of the Fort gave us - the most trouble, and were the last to move away from our - plantations. - - At the end of July we all expected the arrival of Mr. Mounteney - Jephson from the Albert Nyanza to relieve the garrison, and convey - our goods on to the Lake shore. Day after day, however, passed - away, and no sign of him or news from him reaching us made many of - the men more and more restless as each day passed. Though most of - the men wished to remain at the Fort till relief turned up, either - in the shape of Mr. Jephson or yourself, still some eight or ten - discontented ones, desirous of reaching the Lake and partaking of - the plenty there, were quite ready at any time to desert the loads, - the white men, and sick. - - Seeing how things stood I treated the men at all times with the - greatest leniency, and did whatever I could to make their life at - the Fort as easy for them as was possible. - - Shortly after the time of Mr. Jephson's expected arrival, some of - the men came to me and asked for a "shauri;" this I granted. At - this shauri the following propositions were made by one of the men - (Ali Juma), and assented to by almost every one of the Zanzibaris - present. - - I. To leave the Fort, march on to the Lake by way of Mazamboni's - country, making double trips, and so get on all the loads to the - Lake and have plenty of food. - - II. Or, to send say fifteen couriers with a letter to the edge of - the plain, there to learn if the Bandusuma were still our friends - or no; if unfriendly, then to return to the Fort; if friendly, then - the couriers would take on the letter to Mr. Jephson, and relief - would come. - - To the first proposal I replied:-- - - (1.) Mr. Stanley told me not to move across the plain, whatever - else I did, without outside aid. - - (2.) Did not Mr. Stanley tell Emin Pasha it was not safe to cross - the plains, even should the natives be friendly, without sixty - guns? - - (3.) We had only thirty strong men, the rest were sick; we should - lose our loads and sick men. - - We all lived on the best of terms after I had told them we could - not desert the Fort. We went on hoeing up the ground and planting - corn and other crops, as if we expected a prolonged occupation. On - the 1st September a severe hurricane accompanied by hail passed - over the Fort, destroying fully 60 per cent. of the standing corn, - and wrecking the banana plantations to such an extent that at least - a month passed before the trees commenced to send up young shoots. - Had it not been for this we should have had great quantities of - corn; but as it was I was only able to give each man ten corns per - week. The weakly ones, recommended by Dr. Parke, got one cup of - shelled corn each per day. At one time we had over thirty men - suffering from ulcers, but, through the exertion of Dr. Parke, all - their ulcers on your arrival had healed up with the exception of - some four. - - Eight deaths occurred from the time of your departure up to the - 20th December, two were killed by arrows, and two were captured by - natives. - - In all matters where deliberation was necessary the other officers - and myself took part. We were unanimous in our determination to - await your arrival, knowing that you were using every endeavour to - bring relief to us as speedily as possible. - - On the 20th December I handed over the charge of the Fort to you, - and on the 21st the goods entrusted to my care. - -I have the honour to be, Sir, -Your obedient servant, -(Signed) W. G. STAIRS, Lieut. R.E. - - - - -[Sidenote: 1888. - -Dec. 21. - -Fort Bodo.] - -We were now left to conjecture what had become of the energetic Jephson, -the man of action, who had been nick-named _Buburika_, or the Cheetah, -because he was so quick and eager, and strained at the leash. No small -matter would have detained him, even if the Pasha after all thought -that a long journey to Fort Bodo was unnecessary. - -But the fact that neither had been heard of placed us in a dilemma. We -had fifty-five extra loads to carry, over and above the number of -carriers, of absolutely necessary property. After a little midnight -mental deliberation I resolved to make double marches between Fort Bodo -and the Ituri River on the edge of the plains, leave Lieutenant Stairs -and officers and sick at the well-furnished clearing of Kandekore, and -march to the Nyanza to search for Emin Pasha and Mr. Mounteney Jephson. -This would probably cause me to exceed my original estimate of time by -ten days. But what can one do when every plan is thwarted by some -unlucky accident or another? Fort Bodo had been reached two days before -the stipulated time. If I arrived at the Nyanza by January 26 I should -be ten days behind time. - -On the 21st of December all this was explained to the men, and that -fifty-five men must volunteer to do double duty, but for every camp made -by them twice over I should pay for the extra work in cloth. Volunteers -responded readily at this, and the difficulty of carrying the extra -fifty-five loads of ammunition vanished. - -At the muster on the 22nd of December there were present in the -Fort--209 Zanzibaris, 17 Soudanese, 1 Somali, 151 Manyuema and -followers, 26 Madis, 2 Lados, 6 whites; total 412. Therefore the journey -from Banalya to Fort Bodo had cost 106 lives, of whom 38 belonged to the -rear column. - -On the 23rd we set out from Fort Bodo, and on the next day Captain -Nelson, having buried the Pasha's big demijohn, some broken rifles, &c., -set fire to the Fort and joined us. - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -Jan. 2. - -Indenduru.] - -Christmas Day and the day after we foraged for the double journeys, and -on the 27th Stairs was pushed forward with one hundred rifles to occupy -the ferry at the Ituri River, with orders, after making himself snug, to -send back fifty-five men to our Cross Roads camp. Meantime, being very -dilapidated in clothing, the Doctor and I tailored to make ourselves -respectable for the grass-land. - -On the 2nd of January, while waiting for the contingent from Stairs, a -Soudanese, gathering fuel only 150 yards from camp, received five arrows -in his back, which were extracted after tremendous exertion by the -Doctor--two of the arrows being so deeply fixed in bone and muscle that -the wounded man was almost raised from the ground. A sixth arrow was -found two months later. The man ultimately recovered, to die close to -Bagamoyo nearly a year later. - -On the next day the fifty-five men returned from Stairs with a note -reporting all was well at Ituri, and that he was hopeful of a pacific -conclusion to the negotiations with the natives of Kandokore, and on the -4th of the month at noon we moved from Cross Roads Camp. Six hours' -march on the 5th brought us to West Indenduru. The 6th we reached -Central Indenduru, and on the 7th we were in the Bakwuru village at the -foot of Pisgah, in view of the grass-land, at which the men of the rear -column and the Manyuema were never tired of gazing and wondering. On the -9th we crossed the Ituri River and established a camp in the village of -Kandekore on the east side. - -The next day all hands were set to work to make a camp, to clear the -bush around, for natives are accustomed to let it grow right up to the -eaves of their huts to enable them to retreat unperceived in case of -danger. - -In the evening after dinner Lieutenant Stairs and Surgeon Parke were -called to my tent, and I addressed them as to their duties during my -absence. Said I-- - - "Gentlemen, I have called you to give you a few parting words. - - "You know as well as I do that there is a constant unseen influence - at work creating an anxiety which has sometimes tempted us to - despair. No plan, however clear and intelligible it may be, but is - thwarted and reversed. No promises are fulfilled, instructions are - disregarded, suggestions are unavailing, and so we are constantly - labouring to correct and make amends for this general waywardness - which pursues us. We are no sooner out of one difficulty than we - are face to face with another, and we are subjected to everlasting - stress and strains of appalling physical miseries, and absolute - decimation. It is as clear to you as to me why these things are - so. They will go on and continue so, unless I can gather the - fragments of this Expedition together once and for all, and keep it - together, never to be separated again. But each time I have wished - to do so, the inability of the men to march, the necessity of - hurrying to one place and then to another, keep us eternally - detached. After bringing the rear column, and uniting it with the - advance, and collecting your garrison at Fort Bodo, we are - astonished at this total absence of news from Jephson and the - Pasha. Now I cannot manoeuvre with a hospital in tow, such as we - have with us. At the muster of to-day, after inspection, there were - 124 men suffering from ulcers, debility, weakness, dysentery, and - much else. They cannot march, they cannot carry. Jephson and the - Pasha are perhaps waiting for me. It is now January 10th, I - promised to be on the Nyanza again, even if I went as far as - Yambuya, by the 16th, I have six days before me. You see how I am - pulled this way and that way. If I could trust you to obey me, obey - every word literally, that you would not swerve one iota from the - path laid down, I could depart from you with confidence, and find - out what is the matter with Jephson and the Pasha." - - [Sidenote: 1889. - - Jan. 10. - - Kandekore.] - - "I don't see why you should doubt us. I am sure we have always - tried to do our very best to please and satisfy you," replied - Stairs. - - "That is strictly true, and I am most grateful to you for it. The - case of Yambuya seems to be repeated. Our friend Jephson is absent, - perhaps dead from fever or from some accident; but why do we not - hear from the Pasha? Therefore we surmise that some other trouble - has overtaken both. Well, I set out for the Nyanza, and either send - or cause to hear the news, or cut my way through Melindwa to behind - Mswa Station to discover the cause of this strange silence. Have - the Mahdists come up river, and annihilated everybody, or has - another Expedition reached them from the East, and they are all too - busy attending to them to think of their promise to us? Which is - it? No one can answer, but because of this mystery we cannot sit - down to let the mystery unfold itself, and I can do nothing towards - penetrating it with 124 men, who require a long rest to recover - from their fatigues and sicknesses. Therefore I am compelled to - trust to you and the doctor, that you will stay here until I know - what has happened, whether for one month or two months. I want you - to stay here and look after the camp alertly, and I want the doctor - to attend to these sick men and cure them, not to stint medicines, - but nurse them with good food from morning until night. Do you - promise this faithfully, on your words as gentlemen?" - - "We do," replied both warmly. - - "Now Doctor, I particularly address myself to you. Stairs will - perform all that is required as Superintendent and Governor of the - camp, but I look to you mostly. These 124 men are on the sick list, - some are but slightly indisposed, and some are in a dreadful state. - But they all require attention, and you must give it devotedly. You - must see that your worst cases are fed regularly. Three times a day - see that their food is prepared, and that it is given to them; - trust no man's word, see to it yourself in person; we want these - men to reach home. I warn you solemnly that your 'flood-tide of - opportunity' has come. Are you ambitious of distinction? Here is - your chance; seize it. Your task is clear before you, and you are - required to save these men, who will be the means of taking you - home, and of your receiving the esteem of all who shall hear of - your deeds. - - [Sidenote: 1889. - - Jan. 10. - - Kandekore.] - - "Gentlemen, the causes of failure in this world are that men are - unable to see the thing that lies ready at their hands. They look - over their work and forget their tasks, in attempting to do what is - not wanted. Before I left England I received some hundreds of - applications from volunteers to serve with me on this Expedition. - They at least believed that they could win what men vulgarly call - 'kudos,' though I do not believe that one in a thousand of them - knew what is the true way to glory. For instance, there are only - six whites here in this camp, yet one of the six sought me the - other night to request permission to explore the Welle-Mubangi - River--of all places in Africa! His duty was clearly before him, - and yet he did not see it. His opportunities were unheeded. He cast - yearning looks over and above what was right at his feet. He seemed - as if wakened out of a dream when I told him that to escort - refugees to their homes was a far nobler task than any number of - discoveries. On this Expedition there was a man who received a - salary for being loyal and devoted to me, yet when there were - opportunities for distinguishing himself, he allowed his employer's - baggage to be sent away before his very eyes, and his own rations - to be boxed up, and sent out of camp, and he never knew until told - that he had lost his opportunities to gain credit, increase of - salary, and promotion. I point out your opportunities, therefore - hold fast to them with a firm grip; do all you can with might and - main to make the most of them. Don't think of 'kudos,' or 'glory,' - but of your work. All your capital is in that; it will give you - great or little profit, as you perform it. Good-night. To-morrow I - go to do something, I know not what, and do not care until I hear - what it is I have to do. As I will do mine, do yours." - -The next morning, after encouraging remarks to the invalids, we set out -from Kandekore in the territory of the Bakuba, and in forty-five minutes -we had emerged out of the bush, to the immense delight and wonder of -such of the rear column and Manyuema as had not seen the glorious land -before. - -On the 12th we reached Besse, and were well received by our native -friends. They informed us that the Pasha was building big houses at -Nyamsassi, and the rumour was that he and many followers intended to -pass through the land. As we had been very anxious, this piece of good -news was hailed with great satisfaction. - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -Jan. 14. - -Undussuma.] - -We camped the day following in a vale a little north of Mukangi, and on -the 14th we reached our old camp in Mazamboni's country. It was not long -before Mazamboni, and Katto his brother, and his inseparable cousin -Kalenge, appeared, and in reply to our eager questioning, informed us -that Jephson had reached Kavalli's the day before yesterday (12th); that -Hailallah, a boy deserter, was in charge of Kavalli, and had grown as -tall as a spear. We were also told that _Maleju_ (the Pasha) had -despatched ten men to Kavalli's to obtain news of us, and that he had -caused some fields to be cultivated near the lake, and had planted corn -for our use. "What a good, thoughtful, kind man he must be!" we mentally -remarked. - -As Mazamboni presented us with two fat beeves, it was essential that the -Zanzibaris, and the Manyuema should be indulged a little after long -abstinence from flesh. We accordingly halted on the 15th, and during the -day Chief Gavira came in and imparted the intelligence that Jephson had -arrived at Katonza's village three days before with seventeen soldiers; -and our people, who were now well supplied with cloth for extra labour, -and five doti each from Banalya, besides beads, cowries, and wire, were -able to invest in luxuries to their hearts' content. The Manyuema smiled -blandly, and the Zanzibaris had contracted a habit, as they had scented -the grass-lands, of crowing, which when once started was imitated by -nearly 300 people. - -Old Gavira escorted us the next day, on the 16th, the date I should have -been on the Nyanza, and by the afternoon we were in one of the old -villages which was once burned by us, and which was again clean and new -and prosperous, and we welcome and honoured guests, only one long day's -march from the Lake. - -Now that we were actually out of the forest, and only one thing more to -do--since both the Pasha and Mr. Jephson were on the Lake shore just -below us, according to the native--viz., to deliver the ammunition into -the Pasha's hands, and escort a few Egyptians home, Old Gavira had -reason to suppose that afternoon that "Bula Matari" was a very amiable -person. - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -Jan. 16. - -Gavira's.] - -But at 5 P.M. two Wahuma messengers came with letters from Kavalli's, -and as I read them a creeping feeling came over me which was a complete -mental paralysis for the time, and deadened all the sensations except -that of unmitigated surprise. When I recovered myself the ears of -Jephson and the Pasha must certainly have tingled. I need not criminate -myself, however, and any person of any imagination may conceive what I -must have felt after he has read the following letters:-- - - LETTER FROM EMIN. - -Duffle, _2nd September, 1888_. - - DEAR SIR, - - Mr. Jephson having been obliged to accompany some officers who - start to see you, I profit of the occasion to tender you with my - best wishes, hearty congratulations for the safe arrival of your - Expedition, of which we have heard only by our boys, our letters - being rigorously withheld from us. Mr. Jephson, who has been of - good help to me, under very trying circumstances, will tell you - what has happened, and is likewise able to give you the benefit of - his experience, and to make some suggestions, should you decide to - come here as people wish. In the case of your coming, you will - greatly oblige me by taking measures for the safety of my little - girl, about whom I feel most anxious. - - Should, however, you decide not to come, that I can only wish you a - good and safe return to your country, and at the same time I may be - permitted to request you to tender my cordial thanks to your - officers and your people, and my heartfelt acknowledgment to those - kind hearted benefactors in England by whose generosity the - Expedition was started. - -Believe me, Dear Sir, to be, -Yours very sincerely, -(Signed) DR. EMIN. - - - - - * * * * * - - 2ND LETTER FROM EMIN. - - Duffle, 6, 11, 88.--Since the foregoing was written I have been - always a prisoner here. Twice we heard you had come in, but it was - not true. Now, the Mahdi's people having come up, and Rejaf Station - having been taken, we may be attacked some day or other, and there - seems only a few hours of our escaping. However, we hope yet. - To-day I have heard the soldiers from Muggi started yesterday for - Rejaf, and if they are defeated, as without any doubt they will be, - the Khartoum people will be here very quickly. - - Mr. Jephson has acquainted me with the letter he wrote to you, and - I think there is nothing to be joined to it.[2] - -Yours very sincerely, -(Signed) DR. EMIN. - - - - - * * * * * - - 3RD LETTER FROM EMIN. - -Tunguru, _21st December, 1888_. - -DEAR MR. STANLEY, - - Mr. Jephson having told to you whatever has happened here after we - left Duffle, I refrain from repeating the narrative.[3] Although - for a moment there happened a movement in my favour, the officers, - elated with their victory, soon were just as bad as they were in - the beginning of this comedy. Everyone is now fully decided to - leave the country for finding a shelter somewhere. Nobody thinks, - however, of going to Egypt, except, perhaps, a few officers and - men. I am, nevertheless, not without hope of better days; but I - join my entreaties with those of Mr. Jephson asking you to stay - where you are, viz., at Kavalli's, and to send only word of your - arrival as quickly as you can. - - Chief Mogo, the bearer of this and Mr. Jephson's letter, has my - orders to remain at Kavalli's until you arrive. He is a good and - true fellow, and you will oblige me by looking after him. - - With the best wishes for you and all your people, - -I am, -Yours very sincerely, -(Signed) DR. EMIN. - - - - - * * * * * - - LETTERS OF MR. JEPHSON. - -Duffle, _7th November, 1888_. - -DEAR SIR, - - I am writing to tell you of the position of affairs in this - country, and I trust Shukri Aga will be able by some means to - deliver this letter to Kavalli in time to warn you to be careful. - - On August 18th a rebellion broke out here, and the Pasha and I were - made prisoners. The Pasha is a complete prisoner, but I am allowed - to go about the station, though my movements are watched. The - rebellion has been got up by some half dozen officers and clerks, - chiefly Egyptians, and gradually others have joined; some through - inclination, but most through fear; the soldiers, with the - exception of those at Labore, have never taken part in it, but have - quietly given in to their officers. The two prime promoters of the - rebellion were two Egyptians, who we heard afterwards had gone and - complained to you at Nsabe. One was the Pasha's adjutant, Abdul - Vaal Effendi, who was formerly concerned in Arabi's rebellion; the - other was Achmet Effendi Mahmoud, a one-eyed clerk. These two and - some others, when the Pasha and I were on our way to Rejaf, went - about and told the people they had seen you, and that you were only - an adventurer, and had not come from Egypt; that the letters you - had brought from the Khedive and Nubar Pasha were forgeries; that - it was untrue that Khartoum had fallen, and that the Pasha and you - had made a plot to take them, their wives and children out of the - country, and hand them over to slaves to the English. Such words, - in an ignorant and fanatical country like this, acted like fire - amongst the people, and the result was a general rebellion, and we - were made prisoners. - - The rebels then collected officers from the different stations, and - held a large meeting here to determine what measures they should - take, and all those who did not join in the movement were so - insulted and abused, that they were obliged for their own safety to - acquiesce in what was done. The Pasha was deposed, and those - officers who were suspected of being friendly to him were removed - from their posts, and those friendly to the rebels were put in - their places. It was decided to take the Pasha away as a prisoner - to Rejaf, and some of the worst rebels were even for putting him in - irons, but the officers were afraid to put these plans into - execution, as the soldiers said they would never permit any one to - lay a hand on him. Plans were also made to entrap you when you - returned, and strip you of all you had. - - Things were in this condition when we were startled by the news - that the Mahdi's people had arrived at Lado with three steamers - and nine sandals and nuggars, and had established themselves on the - site of the old station. Omar Sale, their general, sent down three - peacock dervishes with a letter to the Pasha demanding the instant - surrender of the country. The rebel officers seized them and put - them in prison, and decided on war. After a few days the Donagla - attacked and captured Rejaf, killing five officers and numbers of - soldiers, and taking many women and children prisoners, and all the - stores and ammunition in the station were lost. The result of this - was a general stampede of people from the stations of Bidden, - Kirri, and Muggi, who fled with their women and children to Labore, - abandoning almost everything. At Kirri the ammunition was - abandoned, and was at once seized by the natives. The Pasha reckons - that the Donagla numbers about 1,500. - - The officers and a large number of soldiers have returned to Muggi, - and intend to make a stand against the Donagla. Our position here - is extremely unpleasant, for since this rebellion all is chaos and - confusion; there is no head, and half a dozen conflicting orders - are given every day, and no one obeys; the rebel officers are - wholly unable to control the soldiers. We are daily expecting some - catastrophe to happen, for the Baris have joined the Donagla, and - if they come down here with a rush nothing can save us. After the - fall of Rejaf, the soldiers cursed their officers and said, "If we - had obeyed our Governor, and had done what he told us, we should - now be safe; he has been a father and a mother to us all these - years; but instead of listening to him we listened to you, and now - we are lost." - - The officers are all very much frightened at what has happened, and - we are now anxiously awaiting your arrival, and desire to leave the - country with you, for they are now really persuaded that Khartoum - has fallen, and that you have come from the Khedive. The greater - part of the officers and all the soldiers wish to reinstate the - Pasha in his place, but the Egyptians are afraid that if he is - reinstated vengeance will fall on their heads, so they have - persuaded the Soudanese officers not to do so. The soldiers refuse - to act with their officers, so everything is at a standstill, and - nothing is being done for the safety of the station, either in the - way of fortifying or provisioning it. We are like rats in a trap; - they will neither let us act nor retire, and I fear unless you come - very soon you will be too late, and our fate will be like that of - the rest of the garrisons of the Soudan. Had this rebellion not - happened, the Pasha could have kept the Donagla in check for some - time, but as it is he is powerless to act. - - I would make the following suggestions concerning your movements - when you arrive at Kavalli's, which, of course, you will only adopt - if you think fit. - - On your arrival at Kavalli's, if you have a sufficient force with - you, leave all unnecessary loads in charge of some officers and men - there, and you yourself come to Nsabe, bringing with you as many - men as you can; bring the Soudanese officers, but not the soldiers, - with you. - - Despatch natives in a canoe to Mswa with a letter in Arabic to - Shukri Aga, telling him of your arrival, and telling him you wish - to see the Pasha and myself, and write also to the Pasha or myself - telling us number of men you have with you; it would, perhaps, be - better to write to me, as a letter to him might be confiscated. - - On no account have anything to do with people who come to you - unaccompanied by either the Pasha or myself, whoever they are, or - however fair their words may be. Neither the Pasha nor I think - there is the slightest danger now of any attempt to capture you - being made, for the people are now fully persuaded you come from - Egypt, and they look to you to get them out of their difficulties; - still it would be well for you to make your camp strong. - - If we are not able to get out of the country, please remember me to - my friends. With kindest wishes to yourself and all with you, - -I am, -Yours faithfully, -(Signed) A. J. MOUNTENEY JEPHSON. -TO H. M. STANLEY, ESQ., -Commander of the Relief Expedition. - - - - - * * * * * - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -Jan. 16. - -Nyanza.] - -Wadelai, _November 24th, 1888_. - - My messenger having not yet left Wadelai, I add this postscript, as - the Pasha wishes me to send my former letter to you in its - entirety, as it gives a fair description of our position at the - time I wrote, when we hardly expected to be ever able to get out of - the country. Shortly after I had written to you, the soldiers were - led by their officers to attempt to retake Rejaf, but the Donagla - defeated them, and killed six officers and a large number of - soldiers; amongst the officers killed were some of the Pasha's - worst enemies. The soldiers in all the stations were so - panic-stricken and angry at what had happened that they declared - they would not attempt to fight unless the Pasha was set at - liberty; so the rebel officers were obliged to free him and sent us - to Wadelai, where he is free to do as he pleases, but at present he - has not resumed his authority in the country; he is, I believe, by - no means anxious to do so. We hope in a few days to be at Tunguru, - a station on the Lake two days by steamer from Nsabe, and I trust - when we hear of your arrival that the Pasha himself will be able to - come down with me to see you. - - Shukri Aga tells us he has everything ready against your arrival, - in the shape of cattle, goats, chickens, corn, etc.; he has behaved - capitally throughout this rebellion, and is the only chief of - station who has been able to stand against the rebels. - - Our danger, as far as the Donagla are concerned, is, of course, - increased by this last defeat, but our position is in one way - better now, for we are further removed from them, and we have now - the option of retiring if we please, which we had not before when - we were prisoners. We hear that the Donagla have sent steamers down - to Khartoum for reinforcements; if so, they cannot be up for - another six weeks; meantime I hope that until the reinforcements - arrive they will not care to come so far from their base as Wadelai - or Tunguru. If they do, it will be all up with us, for the soldiers - will never stand against them, and it will be a mere walk over. - - These people are not the same sort that the soldiers fought three - years ago, but are regular fanatics, and come on with a rush, - cutting down men with their long sharp swords and broad spears. - Every one is anxiously looking for your arrival, the coming of the - Donagla has completely cowed them. Everything now rests on what the - Donagla decided on doing. If they follow up their victories and - come after us, we are lost, as I said before, for I do not think - the people will allow us to retire from the country; but if the - Donagla have sent down to Khartoum for reinforcements, and have - decided to wait for the arrival of their reinforcements, then we - may just manage to get out if you do not come later than the end of - December, but it is utterly impossible to foresee what will happen. - -A. J. M. J. - - - - -Tunguru, _December 18th, 1888_. - - DEAR SIR,-- - - Mogo not having yet started I send a second postscript in order to - give you the latest news I can. We are now at Tunguru. On November - 25th the Donagla surrounded Duffle and besieged it for four days, - but the soldiers, of whom there were some 500 in the station, - managed at last to repulse them, and they retired to Rejaf, which - is their headquarters. They have sent down to Khartoum for - reinforcements, and doubtless will again attack and take the - country when they are strengthened. In our flight from Wadelai I - was asked by the officers to destroy our boat lest it should fall - into the hands of the Donagla; I therefore broke it up, as we were - unable to save it. - - Duffle is being evacuated as fast as possible, and it is the - intention of the officers to collect at Wadelai, and to decide on - what steps they shall next take. The Pasha is unable to move hand - or foot, as there is still a very strong party against him, and the - officers are no longer in immediate fear of the Mahdi's people. - - Do not on any account come down to Nsabe, but make your camp at - Kavalli's; send a letter directly you arrive, and as soon as we - hear of your arrival I will come down to you. I will not disguise - the fact from you that you will have a difficult and dangerous task - before you in dealing with the Pasha's people. I trust you will - arrive before the Donagla return, or our case will be desperate. - -I am, yours faithfully, -(Signed) A. J. MOUNTENEY JEPHSON. - - - - - * * * * * - - MY REPLY TO MR. JEPHSON. - -Camp at Gavira's, one day from Nyanza, and one day's march east -of Mazamboni's. - -_January 17th, 1889._ - - MY DEAR JEPHSON,-- - - Your letter of November 7th, 1888, with two postscripts, one dated - November 24th, and the other dated December 18th, is to hand and - contents noted. - - I will not criticise your letter nor discuss any of its contents. I - wish to be brief, and promptly act; with that view I present you - with a _precis_ of events connected with our journey. - - We separated from the Pasha on the 23rd of May last, with the - understanding that in about two months you, with or without the - Pasha, would start for Fort Bodo with sufficient porters to take - the goods at the Fort and convey them to the Nyanza, the Pasha - expressing himself anxious to see Mt. Pisgah and our Fort, and, if - words may be relied on, he was anxious to assist us in his own - relief. We somewhat doubted whether his affairs would permit the - Pasha's absence, but we were assured you would not remain inactive. - - It was also understood that the Pasha would erect a small station - on Nyamsassi Island as a provision depot, in order that our - Expedition might find means of subsistence on arrival at the Lake. - - Eight months have elapsed, and not one single promise has been - performed. - - On the other hand, we, faithful to our promise, departed from the - Nyanza Plain May 25th, arrived at Fort Bodo June 8th--fifteen days - from the Nyanza. Conveying to Lieutenant Stairs and Captain Nelson - your comforting assurances that you would be there in two months, - and giving written permission to Stairs and Nelson to evacuate the - Fort and accompany you to the Nyanza with the garrison, which, with - the Pasha's soldiers, would have made a strong depot of Nyamsassi - Island, I set out from Fort Bodo on the 16th June to hunt up the - Major and his column. - - On the morning of the 17th August at 10 A.M., we sighted the rear - column at Banalya, ninety miles (English) from Yambuya--592 miles - from the Nyanza on the sixty-third day from Fort Bodo, and the - eighty-fifth from the Nyanza shore. - - I sent my despatches to Stanley Falls and thence to Europe, and on - the 31st August commenced my return towards the Nyanza. Two days - before the date stated I was at Fort Bodo--December 20th. On the - 24th December we moved from Fort Bodo towards the Ituri Ferry. But - as your non-arrival at Fort Bodo had left us with a larger number - of goods than our force could carry at one time, we had to make - double journeys to Fort Bodo and back to the Ituri Ferry, but by - the 10th January all that remained of the Expedition, with all its - effects, were on this side of the Ituri River, encamped half a mile - from the ferry, with abundance of food assured for months. On the - 12th January I left Stairs; your absence from the Fort, and the - absolute silence respecting you all, made us suspect that serious - trouble had broken out. Yesterday your letter, as above stated, - came to hand, and its contents explained the trouble. - - The difficulties I met at Banalya, are repeated to-day, near the - Albert Lake, and nothing can save us now from being overwhelmed by - them but a calm and clear decision. If I had hesitated at Banalya - very likely I should still be there waiting for Jameson and Ward, - with my own men dying by dozens. - - Are the Pasha, Casati and yourself to share the same fate? If you - are still victims of indecision, then a long good-night to you all. - But, while I retain my senses, I must save my Expedition; you may - be saved also if you are wise. - - In the "High Order" of the Khedive, dated 1st February, 1887, No. - 3, to Emin Pasha, a translation of which was handed to me, I find - the following words:-- - - "And since it is our sincerest desire to relieve you with your - officers and soldiers from the difficult position you are in, our - Government have made up their minds about the manner by which - relief from these troubles may be obtained. A mission for the - relief has been found, and the command of it given to Mr. Stanley, - the famous, &c., &c., &c., and he intends to set out on it with all - the necessary provisions for you, so that he may bring you, with - your officers and men, to Cairo by the route he may think proper to - take. Consequently we have issued this 'High Order' to you, and it - is sent to you by the hand of Mr. Stanley, to let you know what was - being done. As soon as it reaches you convey my best wishes to the - officers and men, and you are at full liberty with regard to your - leaving for Cairo or your stay there with officers and men. - - "Our Government has given a decision for paying your salaries, with - that of the officers and men. - - "Those who wish to stay there of the officers and men may do so on - their own responsibility, and they may not expect any assistance - from the Government. - - "Try to understand the contents well, and make them well known to - all the officers and men, that they may be fully aware of what they - are going to do." - - It is precisely what the Khedive says that I wish to say to you. - Try and understand all this thoroughly that you may be saved from - the effect of indecision, which will be fatal to you all if - unheeded. - - The first instalment of relief was handed to Emin Pasha on or about - the 1st of May, 1888. The second and final instalment of relief is - at this camp with us, ready for delivery at any place the Pasha - designates, or to any person charged by the Pasha to receive it. If - the Pasha fails to receive it, or to decide what shall be done with - it I must then decide briefly what I must do. - - Our second object in coming here was to receive such at our camp as - were disposed to leave Africa, and conduct them home by the nearest - and safest route. If there are none disposed to leave Africa our - Expedition has no further business in these regions, and will at - once retire. Try and understand what all this means. Try and see - the utter and final abandonment of all further relief, and the - bitter end and fate of those obstinate and misguided people who - decline assistance when tendered to them. From the 1st May, 1888, - to January 1889, are nine months--so long a time to consider a - simple proposition of leaving Africa or staying here! - - Therefore, in this official and formal letter accompanying this - explanatory note to you, I designate Kavalli's village as the - rendezvous where I am willing to receive those who are desirous of - leaving Africa, subject, of course, to any new light thrown upon - the complication by a personal interview or a second letter from - you. - - And now I address myself to you personally. If you consider - yourself still a member of the Expedition subject to my orders, - then, upon receipt of this letter, you will at once leave for - Kavalli's with such of my men--Binza and the Soudanese--as are - willing to obey you, and bring to me the final decision of Emin - Pasha and Signor Casati respecting their personal intentions. If I - am not at Kavalli's then, stay there, and send word by letter by - means of Kavalli's messengers to Mpinga, Chief of Gavira, who will - transmit the same to Mazamboni's, when probably I shall receive it. - You will understand that it will be a severe strain on Kavalli's - resources to maintain us with provisions longer than six days, and - if you are longer than this period we must retire to Mazamboni's, - and finally to our camp on the Ituri Ferry. Otherwise we must seize - provisions by force, and any act of violence would cut off and - close native communication. This difficulty might have been avoided - had the Pasha followed my suggestion of making a depot at - Nyamsassi. The fact that there are provisions at Mswa does not help - us at all. There are provisions in Europe also. But unfortunately - they are as inaccessible as those of Mswa. We have no boat now to - communicate by lake, and you do not mention what has become of the - steamers, the _Khedive_ and _Nyanza_. - - I understand that the Pasha has been deposed and is a prisoner. - Who, then, is to communicate with me respecting what is to be done? - I have no authority to receive communications from the - officers--mutineers. It was Emin Pasha and his people I was - supposed to relieve. If Emin Pasha was dead, then to his lawful - successor in authority. Emin Pasha being alive prevents my - receiving a communication from any other person, unless he be - designated by the Pasha. Therefore the Pasha, if he be unable to - come in person to me at Kavalli's with a sufficient escort of - faithful men, or be unable to appoint some person authorised to - receive this relief, it will remain for me to destroy the - ammunition so laboriously brought here, and return home. - - Finally, if the Pasha's people are desirous of leaving this part of - Africa, and settle in some country not far remote from here, or - anywhere bordering the Nyanza (Victoria), or along the route to - Zanzibar, I am perfectly ready to assist, besides escorting those - willing to go home to - - Cairo safely; but I must have clear and definite assertions, - followed by prompt action, according to such orders as I shall give - for effecting this purpose, or a clear and definite refusal, as we - cannot stay here all our lives awaiting people who seem to be not - very clear as to what they wish. - - Give my best wishes to the Pasha and Signor Casati, and I hope and - pray that wisdom may guide them both before it is too late. I long - to see you, my dear fellow, and hear from your own lip your story. - -Yours very sincerely, -(Signed) HENRY M. STANLEY. -To A. J. MOUNTENEY JEPHSON, Esq. - - - - - * * * * * - - PRIVATE POSTSCRIPT. - -Kavalli, _January 18th, 1889 3 p.m._ - - MY DEAR JEPHSON,-- - - I now send thirty rifles and three of Kavalli's men down to the - Lake with my letters, with urgent instructions that a canoe should - set off and the bearers be rewarded. - - I may be able to stay longer than six days here, perhaps for ten - days. I will do my best to prolong my stay until you arrive, - without rupturing the peace. Our people have a good store of beads, - cowries, and cloth, and I notice that the natives trade very - readily, which will assist Kavalli's resources should he get uneasy - under our prolonged visit. - - Be wise, be quick, and waste no hour of time, and bring Binza and - your own Soudanese with you. I have read your letters half-a-dozen - times over, but I fail to grasp the situation thoroughly, because - in some important details one letter seems to contradict the other. - In one you say the Pasha is a close prisoner, while you are allowed - a certain amount of liberty; in the other you say that you will - come to me as soon as you hear of our arrival here, and "I trust," - you say, "the Pasha will be able to accompany me." Being prisoners, - I fail to see how you could leave Tunguru at all. All this is not - very clear to us who are fresh from the bush. - - If the Pasha can come, send a courier on your arrival at our old - camp on the Lake below here to announce the fact, and I will send a - strong detachment to escort him up to the plateau, even to carry - him, if he needs it. I feel too exhausted, after my thirteen - hundred miles of travel since I parted from you last May, to go - down to the Lake again. The Pasha must have some pity on me. - - Don't be alarmed or uneasy on our account; nothing hostile can - approach us within twelve miles without my knowing it. I am in the - midst of a friendly population, and if I sound the war-note, within - four hours I can have two thousand warriors to assist to repel any - force disposed to violence. And if it is to be a war of wits, why - then I am ready for the cunningest Arab alive. - - I wrote above that I read your letters half-a-dozen times, and my - opinion of you varies with each reading. Sometimes I fancy you are - half Mahdist or Arabist, and then Eminist. I shall be wiser when I - see you. - - Now don't you be perverse, but obey; and let my order to you be as - a frontlet between the eyes, and all, with God's gracious help, - will end well. - - I want to help the Pasha somehow, but he must also help me and - credit me. If he wishes to get out of this trouble, I am his most - devoted servant and friend; but if he hesitates again, I shall be - plunged in wonder and perplexity. I could save a dozen Pashas if - they were willing to be saved. I would go on my knees to implore - the Pasha to be sensible in his own case. He is wise enough in all - things else, except in his own interest. Be kind and good to him - for many virtues, but do not you be drawn into that fatal - fascination which Soudan territory seems to have for all Europeans - of late years. As soon as they touch its ground, they seem to be - drawn into a whirlpool, which sucks them in and covers them with - its waves. The only way to avoid it is to obey blindly, devotedly, - and unquestioningly, all orders from the outside. - - The Committee said, "Relieve Emin Pasha with this ammunition. If he - wishes to come out, the ammunition will enable him to do so; if he - elects to stay, it will be of service to him." The Khedive said the - same thing, and added, "But if the Pasha and his officers wish to - stay, they do so on their own responsibility." Sir Evelyn Baring - said the same thing, in clear and decided words; and here I am, - after 4,100 miles of travel, with the last instalment of relief. - Let him who is authorised to take it, take it. Come; I am ready to - lend him all my strength and wit to assist him. But this time there - must be no hesitation, but positive yea or nay, and home we go. - -Yours very sincerely, -HENRY M. STANLEY. -A. J. MOUNTENEY JEPHSON, Esq. - - - - - * * * * * - -Camp at Mpinga's, one long march -from the Nyanza, and 10 miles east of Mazamboni's. - -_January 17th, 1889._ - -To His Excellency EMIN PASHA, - Governor of the Equatorial Province. - - SIR, - - I have the honour to inform you that the second instalment of - relief which this Expedition was ordered to convey to you is now in - this camp, ready for delivery to any person charged to receive it - by you. If you prefer that we should deposit it at Kavalli or at - Kyya Nkondo's, on the Lake, we shall be ready to do so on the - receipt of your instructions. - - This second instalment of relief consists of sixty-three cases - Remington cartridges, twenty-six cases of gunpowder, each 45 lbs. - weight; four cases of percussion caps, four bales of goods, one - bale of goods for Signor Casati--a gift from myself; two pieces of - blue serge, writing-paper, envelopes, blank books, &c. - - Having after great difficulty--greater than was - anticipated--brought relief to you, I am constrained to officially - demand from you receipts for the above goods and relief brought to - you, and also a definite answer to the question if you propose to - accept our escort and assistance to reach Zanzibar, or if Signor - Casati proposes to do so, or whether there are any officers or men - disposed to accept of our safe conduct to the sea. In the latter - event, I would be obliged to you if you would kindly state how - those persons desirous of leaving Africa can be communicated with. - I would respectfully suggest that all persons desirous of leaving - with me should proceed to and form camp either at Nsabe or at Kyya - Nkondo's on the Lake, with sufficient stores of grain, &c., to - support them one month, and that a note should be sent to me - informing me of the same _via_ Kavalli, whence I soon may receive - it. The person in charge of the people at this camp will inform me - definitely whether the people are ready to accept of our safe - conduct, and, upon being thus informed, I shall be pleased to - assume all further charge of them. - - If, at the end of twenty days, no news has been heard from you or - Mr. Jephson, I cannot hold myself responsible for what may happen. - We should be glad to stay at Kavalli's if we were assured of food, - but a large following cannot be maintained there except by exacting - contributions by force, which would entirely close our intercourse - with the natives, and prevent us from being able to communicate - with you. - - If grain could be landed at Kyya Nkondo's by steamer, and left in - charge of six or seven of your men, I could, upon being informed of - the fact, send a detachment of men to convey it to the plateau. It - is only the question of food that creates anxiety. Hence you will - perceive that I am under the necessity of requesting you to be very - definite and prompt, if you have the power. - - If within this period of twenty days you will be able to - communicate with me, and inform or suggest to me any way I can make - myself useful, or lend effective aid, I promise to strain every - effort to perform service to you. Meantime, awaiting your steamer - with great anxiety,[4] - -I am, your obedient servant, -(Signed) HENRY M. STANLEY, -Commanding Relief Expedition. - - - - -The second day after reaching Kavalli's, thirty rifles were despatched -to the Lake shore with my replies to Emin Pasha and Mr. Jephson. The men -delivered the letters to Chief Mogo, and on their return to our camp -reported that the chief had departed from Nsabe for Mswa station. During -these few days we had received five beeves, six goats, and five days' -rations of Indian corn, beans, sweet potatoes and millet, and further -contributions were on the way to camp from the surrounding chiefs. - -On the evening of the 21st, notice was brought to me that the Balegga -were collecting to attack us, and early the following morning sixty -rifles, with 1,500 Bavira and Wahuma were sent to meet them. The forces -met on the crest of the mountains overlooking the Lake, and the Balegga, -after a sharp resistance, were driven to their countrymen among the -subjects of Melindwa, who was the ally of Kabba Rega. - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -Jan. 23. - -Nyanza.] - -The 23rd was spent by all the people of the plain country as a -thanksgiving day, and the Bavira women met at the camp to relieve their -joy at their deliverance from their inveterate enemy, with dancing and -singing, which lasted from 9 A.M. until 3 P.M. Each woman and child in -the dance circles was decked with bunches of green leaves in front and -rear and was painted with red clay, while their bodies were well smeared -with butter. The dance was excellent and exciting and not ungraceful, -but the healthy vocal harmony was better. The young warriors circled -around the female dancers, and exhibited their dexterity with the spear. - -[Illustration: A BELLE OF BAVIRA.] - -During the following days we had rest and quiet. Contributions of -cattle, sheep, goats, fowls and provisions were supplied daily with -great regularity, but on the 5th of February a note came from Jephson, -stating that he had arrived on the Lake shore, and a detachment of -Zanzibaris was at once sent to escort him to the plateau, the distance -being about thirteen miles. - -The next day Mr. Jephson himself arrived, and after dinner, in -conversing about the Pasha, he summed up, after nine months' residence -with him, all he had learned, in the following words:-- - -"Sentiment is the Pasha's worst enemy. No one keeps Emin Pasha back but -Emin Pasha himself." He further said, "I know no more about Emin Pasha's -intentions this minute than you do yourself, and yet we have talked -together every day during your absence." I then asked him to write me a -full report of what had taken place, bearing upon the revolt of the -troops of Equatoria, and his views respecting the invasion of the -Province by the Mahdists, and its results. Mr. Jephson readily complied, -and wrote the following:-- - -Kavalli's Village, Albert Nyanza, -_February 7th, 1889._ - - DEAR SIR, - - I have the honour to submit to you the following report of my stay, - from May 24th, 1888, up to the present time, with his Excellency - Emin Pacha, Mudir of the Equatorial Province. - - According to your orders I visited nearly all the stations in the - Province, and read the letters from His Highness the Khedive and - from His Excellency Nubar Pasha, before all the officers, soldiers, - and Egyptian employes in each station and also your own address to - the soldiers. After having read, I spoke to the people, and after - giving them sufficient time to talk it over amongst themselves, - invited them to give me their decision as to whether they elected - to accept our safe-conduct to Egypt, or remain in this country. - - In every station, with the exception of Labore, their unanimous - answer was "We will follow our mudir wherever he goes." They all - seemed glad that we had come to help them, and said many things - indicating their good opinion of their mudir, and spoke in the - highest terms of his justice and kindness to them, and of his - devotion to them all these years. During the whole of my stay in - his country the Pasha has left me perfect liberty to mix with his - officers and people, and I was free to converse with them as I - pleased. - - On reaching Kirri, which is the last station occupied by the - soldiers of the 2nd Battalion, we stayed before going further, to - hear news from Rejaf. The country to the north and west of Kirri is - occupied by the soldiers of the 1st Battalion, who have been in - open rebellion against the Pasha's authority for nearly four years. - Here the Pasha received a letter from Hamid Aga, the major of the - 1st Battalion, begging him not to come on to Rejaf, as the rebels - had formed a plan to seize us and take us down to Khartoum, as - they believed Government still existed there, and that the news - that it had fallen was false. We were therefore obliged to return - without visiting the more northern stations. - - On our return, whilst reading the letters before the people at - Labore, a soldier stepped out of the ranks and exclaimed, "All that - you are saying is a lie, and these letters are forgeries. Khartoum - has not fallen. That is the right road to Egypt. We will go by that - road only, or will stay and die in this country." - - On the Pasha's ordering him to be put in prison, the soldiers broke - from their ranks and surrounded us, and having loaded their rifles - presented them at us. They were generally excited and the utmost - uproar prevailed, and for some minutes we expected a general - massacre of ourselves and the small number of people with us. - However, they gradually cooled down, and asked me afterwards to - come and speak with them alone, which I did, and they expressed - great regret at what had happened. We have since heard that Surur - Aga, the Chief of the Station, had instigated them to act in this - way. - - A few days afterwards, on our return to Duffle, August 18th, we - found a mutiny had broken out, headed by Fadl el Mulla Aga, the - Chief of Fabbo Station, and that the station was in the hands of - the mutineers--on our entry we were at once made prisoners. It - appears that during our absence certain Egyptians, chief amongst - them Abdul Wahab Effendi and Mustapha Effendi el Adjemi, both of - whom were sent up here for being concerned in Arabi's rebellion, - together with the clerks Mustapha Effendi Achmet, Achmet Effendi - Mahmoud, Sabri Effendi, Tybe Effendi, and several others had in our - absence been speaking to the people and circulating letters amongst - them, saying it was untrue that Khartoum had fallen, that the - letters we had brought from His Highness the Khedive and his - Excellency Nubar Pasha were forgeries, that you were only an - adventurer and had not come from Egypt, but that you had formed a - plot with the Pasha to take all the people out of the country and - to hand them over, together with their wives and children, as - slaves to the English. They added, in Egypt they had rebelled - against His Highness the Khedive himself, so that it was no great - matter to rebel against Emin Pasha. - - These words raised a storm in the country, and though the soldiers - themselves took no active part in the mutiny beyond acting as - sentries over us, they allowed their officers to do as they - pleased. The head mutineers Fadl el Mulla Aga, Achmet Aga Dinkawi, - and Abdul Aga el Opt had them marched to Duffle and joined the - rebellious Egyptians who had invited him to act as their chief. - They sent letters to all the stations, telling the officers they - had put the mudir and myself in prison, as we had conspired to - betray them, and ordered them to come up to Duffle and attend a - meeting, when they would decide what further steps should be - taken--they also invited the rebellious officers of the 1st - Battalion to act with them. - - I was brought up before the mutineers and questioned about the - Expedition, and the letter from His Highness was examined and - declared by the clerks to be a forgery. The mutineers then proposed - to depose the Pasha, and all those who were averse to such a - measure were by intimidation at last forced to give in. A letter - was handed to him informing him of his deposition, and it was - decided that he should be kept a prisoner at Rejaf. I was declared - to be free, but to all intents and purposes I was a prisoner, as I - was not allowed to leave the station, and all my movements were - closely watched. A plan was also formed to entice you into the - country, and to rob you of all your guns, ammunition, stores, etc., - and then to turn you adrift. - - The mutineers then proceeded to form a new Government, and all - those officers who were suspected of being friendly to the Pasha - were removed from their posts. Soon, however, jealousy and - dissensions began to arise amongst them, and after the Pasha's - house and the houses of two or three people supposed to be friendly - to him had been looted, things came pretty much to a standstill. - - Whilst things were in this state, we suddenly heard, on October - 15th, that the Mahdi's people had arrived in three steamers, and - nine sandals and nuggars, at Lado; and on the 17th three dervishes, - under a flag of truce, brought a letter from Omar Sale, the - commander of the Mahdi's forces, addressed to the Pasha, promising - him a free pardon should he and his people surrender. The letter - was opened by the mutineers who decided to fight. On October 21st - we heard that the Mahdi's people, who had been joined by many - negroes of the Bari tribe, had attacked and taken Rejaf, and three - officers, two clerks, and a great many men had been killed, and all - the women and children in the station had been captured. This - created a panic, and the officers and soldiers, together with their - women and children, abandoned the stations of Bidden, Kirri, and - Muggi, and fled in disorder to Labore; at Kirri they even left the - ammunition behind them. - - The mutineers on hearing of this disaster determined to send down - large reinforcements to Muggi, and soldiers were sent down from all - the southern stations to collect there. On October 31st we heard - that there were great dissensions amongst the officers at Muggi, - and the soldiers had declared they would not fight unless their - mudir was set at liberty. On November 15th we heard that the - soldiers had marched down to Rejaf, but that on their approaching - the station the Mahdi's people had sallied out and attacked them - with a rush; the soldiers made no attempt to fight, but turned at - once and fled, leaving their officers behind them. Six officers, - and the newly-made Governor of the Province, and some of the worst - of the rebels were killed, two more officers were missing, and many - soldiers were killed as they fell down exhausted in the flight. - - Upon hearing the news, the officers who were friendly to the Pasha, - at once pressed the rebel officers to set him at liberty; and they - being afraid of the people, set him free and sent us to Wadelai, - where the Pasha was most enthusiastically received by the faithful - part of the population there--he had been a close prisoner just - three months. At last the people believed that Khartoum had fallen - and that we had come from Egypt. - - After remaining some days at Wadelai and hearing no news from - Duffle, people became very uneasy, and messengers were sent down to - Duffle, on the east bank of the river, to carry letters and to - ascertain the reason of the long silence, as we had heard that a - large body of the Mahdi's people were advancing from the west on - Wadelai and were only four days distant. - - On December 4th, an officer in command of Bora, a small station - between Wadelai and Duffle, came in with his soldiers in great - haste, saying they had abandoned their post at Duffle, Fabbo and - all the northern station had fallen, and that the steamers also had - been captured and were in the hands of the Mahdi's people, the - natives round the stations had all risen and joined the enemy and - had killed our messengers. On hearing this news a council was held, - and the officers and soldiers at once decided to abandon and retire - to Tunguru, from which place they would ascend the mountains and - try to join you at Fort Bodo. I was desired at the council to - destroy our boat the _Advance_, to prevent her falling into the - hands of the Mahdi, and, as there was no prospect of saving her, I - was reluctantly obliged to do so. On the next day, December 5th, we - had all ready for an early start, taking with us only a few bundles - of the most necessary things and abandoning everything else. All - the ammunition in the storehouses was divided among the soldiers, - who at the last moment declared, as they now had plenty of - ammunition, they preferred to retire to their own - countries--Makraka and the countries round--where they would - disperse and live amongst their own people, and that they would - desert the Pasha and their officers. - - Things, however, seemed desperate, and we hurried on without - them--a long, straggling procession, consisting chiefly of Egyptian - employes with their wives and families; we were accompanied only by - some seven or eight soldiers who remained faithful. Some of our - servants were armed with percussion-guns, and we may have mustered - some thirty guns amongst us. Immediately on our quitting the - station the soldiers entered the houses and looted them. - - On December 6th a steamer was seen coming up the river after us, - and our people prepared to fire on her; but it turned out that - there were some of our own people from Duffle on board with letters - from the Pasha. The letters contained the news that Fabbo had been - evacuated, and that the refugees had been able to reach Duffle in - spite of the negroes who had attacked them. Duffle had been - besieged by the Mahdi's people for four days, and the station - itself had been taken and held for some time by a small body of the - enemy, who had entered it at night and they had also captured the - steamers. They had driven the soldiers, of whom there were some - 500, actually out of the station; but they, finding themselves - between two fires, had with the energy of despair responded to the - entreaties of their officers. Selim Aga Mator, Bellal Aga, Bachil - Aga, Burgont, and Suleiman Aga, had re-entered the station and - retaken it, and after making a sally, had so punished the enemy - that they retired to Rejaf and sent down two steamers to Khartoum - for reinforcements. - - From all accounts we have since heard the soldiers acted with great - cowardice, except at last when they were rendered desperate. In - this affray at Duffle, fourteen officers and a large number of - soldiers were killed, and Suleiman Aga was shot by his own men, and - has since died. The losses of the enemy were estimated at 250, but - probably a third of that number would be nearer the mark, even - though the Mahdi's people fought almost entirely with spears and - swords, and the soldiers were armed with Remingtons, and fought - behind a ditch and earthworks, but they are such bad shots that - their shooting had not much effect. - - The officers and soldiers at Wadelai were anxious for the Pasha to - return, but after the faithless example the soldiers had shown, - when he believed things to be desperate, he preferred to proceed to - Tunguru. After this retreat from Wadelai, lasting only two days, I - am better able to understand what a difficult and almost impossible - task getting the people to Zanzibar will be, should they elect to - go with us. - - After this retreat from Wadelai, the party against the Pasha, which - is again in the ascendant, now that the immediate fear of the - Mahdi's people is removed, have accused him of having invented the - whole story of the fall of Duffle, in order to cut off their - retreat and hand them over to the Mahdi, whilst he and the people - with him escaped from the country and joined you. They sentenced - the Pasha, Casati and myself to death for treachery. - - During the Council held eventually at Wadelai by all the officers - and soldiers, there was a great amount of quarrelling and - discussion, some wishing to stay in the country, and some wishing - to follow the Pasha, words ran high, and the contending parties - even came to blows. Fadl el Mulla Aga and his party wished to take - the Pasha and myself prisoners, and the other party, headed by - Selim Aga Mator, wished to join the Pasha and leave the country - with him; but though they profess to wish to leave the country, - they make no effort whatever to get things ready for the start. If - you intend to take them with you, you will have to wait many months - before they are ready. Meanwhile the Pasha, Signor Casati and I - were waiting at Tunguru, the mutineers having given strict - injunctions to the chief of the station to detain us there until - further orders. - - On January the 26th the Pasha and I got letters from you, dated - January 17th and 18th, and obeying the strict order you give me in - your letters to start for Kavalli's immediately on receipt of them, - I got ready to start the next day, bringing with me the Pasha's - answer to your letter. Owing to the treachery of some of the - Pasha's people, I was delayed two days in the earlier stage of my - journey; but thanks to Shukri Agha, the Chief of Mswa Station, who - has remained faithful to the Pasha, and of whose conduct throughout - the whole of the last unfortunate five months I cannot speak too - highly, I was enabled to induce the natives to bring me in a canoe - to Nyamsassi, but as the Lake is so rough and dangerous at this - time of the year, it has taken me five days from Mswa to Nyamsassi. - - It is impossible to give you any true idea of the state of the - country at the present. Sometimes the mutineers are in the - ascendant, and sometimes the party for the Pasha. One steamer full - of reinforcements for the Mahdi's people has already arrived at - Rejaf, and two more steamers full are shortly expected, - reinforcements will also probably soon come in from Bahr el Ghazal, - when the Mahdi's people, turning to revenge their defeat at Duffle, - will most certainly descend on Wadelai with an overpowering force, - and will surprise the people in the midst of their quarrels and - uncertainty. Tunguru is but two days distant from Wadelai, and the - Pasha's position there, surrounded by people in whom he can place - no trust, is dangerous in the extreme, and it is of the utmost - importance that he should be relieved with as little delay as - possible. - - In your letter to me dated January 17th and 18th, you speak rather - bitterly of the Pasha and myself having failed to carry out our - promises of building a station at Nsabe, garrisoning it and storing - it with provisions ready for you on your return to the Nyanza, of - having failed to relieve Fort Bodo, and to carry the loads and - garrison to the station at Nsabe, and of not having such people as - wished to avail themselves of our escort ready at Nsabe, to start - with you on your return. The reason we were unable to do so was as - follows:--After being away from his country for nearly a month with - you at Nsabe, the Pasha had naturally much business to attend to on - his return to Wadelai, the seat of Government, and I myself was for - nearly a month constantly prostrated by fever, and we were not able - to start from Wadelai to visit the northern stations till July.[5] - - Having done our work to the north, we were returning with the - intention of carrying out our promises to you, when on August 18th, - we were taken prisoners, and all authority was taken out of the - Pasha's hands, and we were rendered absolutely powerless to fulfil - those promises. We had tried before leaving Wadelai, to start a - party to Nsabe to build a station, but the soldiers had refused to - obey the order, until they had heard what their brethren in the - Northern stations had decided to do. It is very lucky that a - station was not built, and the goods and garrison of Fort Bodo - removed there, for the rebels would most certainly have seized all - our goods, and made the Europeans in charge prisoners. - - And this leads me now to say a few words concerning the position of - affairs in this country when I entered it on 21st April, 1888. The - first battalion had long been in open rebellion against the Pasha's - authority, and had twice attempted to make him prisoner; the second - battalion, though professedly loyal, was insubordinate and almost - unmanageable, the Pasha possessed only a semblance, a mere rag of - authority--and if he required anything of importance to be done he - could no longer order, he was obliged to beg his officers to do it. - - Now when we were at Nsabe in May '88, though the Pasha hinted that - things were a little difficult in this country, he never revealed - to us the true state of things, which was actually desperate; and - we had not the slightest idea that any mutiny or discontent was - likely to arise amongst his people. We thought--as we and most - people in Europe and Egypt had been taught to believe, by the - Pasha's own letters and Dr. Junker's later information--that all - these difficulties arose from events outside his country, whereas - in point of fact, his real danger arose from internal dissensions. - Thus we were led to place our trust in people who were utterly - unworthy of our confidence and help, and who instead of being - grateful to us for wishing to help them, have from the very first - conspired to plunder the Expedition, and turn us adrift; and had - the mutineers in their highly excited state been able to prove one - single case of injustice, cruelty or neglect of his people against - the Pasha, he would most assuredly have lost his life in this - rebellion. - - There are of course some people who have remained faithful to the - Pasha, and many who have remained neutral, and these chiefly are - the people who are willing to come out with us. There are also a - great number of Egyptian clerks, many of whom have behaved very - badly, but the coming of the Mahdi's people has so frightened them - that they too now wish to come out with us; but in spite of my - constant advice to them to move forward, they seem incapable of - making any effort to leave the country and concentrate at Nsabe, at - which place they would be within our reach--there is absolutely - nothing to prevent their doing so, but their own laziness. - - The greater part of the people, a large number of Egyptians and - most of the Soudanese, are decidedly averse to going to Egypt, and - do not wish to leave the country. Most of them have never been to - Egypt, but have been recruited from the countries round here. Here - they can support a large household, many of the officers have as - many as from eighteen to one hundred people, women, children and - servants, in their houses, and it is the great ambition of every - Soudanese to have as many people as possible in his house, but in - Egypt they could only afford to support three or four people on - their pay. These things being considered, it is quite natural that - they should prefer to remain in their own country. - - As to the Pasha's wish to leave the country, I can say decidedly he - is most anxious to go out with us, but under what condition he will - consent to come out I can hardly understand. I do not think he - quite knows himself, his ideas seem to me to vary so much on the - subject; to-day he is ready to start up and go, to-morrow some new - idea holds him back. I have had many conversations with him about - it, but have never been able to get his unchanging opinion on the - subject. After this rebellion I remarked to him, "I presume now - that your people have deposed you and put you aside, you do not - consider that you have any longer any responsibility or obligation - concerning them," and he answered, "Had they not deposed me I - should have felt bound to stand by them and help them in any way I - could, but now, I consider I am absolutely free to think only of my - personal safety and welfare, and if I get the chance, I shall go - out regardless of everything;" and yet only a few days before I - left him, he said to me, "I know I am not in any way responsible - for these people, but I cannot bear to go out myself first and - leave anyone behind me who is desirous of quitting the country. It - is mere sentiment I know, and perhaps a sentiment you will not - sympathize with, but my enemies at Wadelai would point at me and - say to the people, 'You see he has deserted you.'" These are merely - two examples of what passed between us on the subject of his going - out with us, but I could quote numbers of things he said, all - equally contradictory. Again, too, being somewhat impatient after - one of these unsatisfactory conversations, I said, "If even the - Expedition does reach any place near you, I shall advise Mr. - Stanley to arrest you and carry you off, whether you will or no;" - to which he replied, "Well, I shall do nothing to prevent his doing - that." It seems to me, if we are to save him, we must first save - him from himself. - - Before closing this report, I must bear witness to the fact that in - my frequent conversations with all sorts and conditions of the - Pasha's people, most of them spoke of his justice and generosity to - them, but they also said, and what I have seen confirms it, that he - did not hold his people with a sufficiently firm hand. - - The three Soudanese soldiers you left with me as orderlies and my - servant Binza return with me, but Mabruki Kassim, the man who was - wounded by the buffalo at Nsabe, died two days after you left for - Fort Bodo. - -I am, dear Sir, -Your obedient servant, -(Signed) A. J. MOUNTENEY JEPHSON. - -To H. M. STANLEY, Esq., -Commanding the Relief Expedition. - - - - -Mr. Jephson also handed me an official receipt to my formal letter of -January 18th, written by Emin Pasha. - -Tunguru, -_January 27th, 1889_. - -To H. M. STANLEY, Esq., -Commanding the Relief Expedition. - - SIR, - - I have the honour to acknowledge receipt of your note of January - 14th, Camp Undussuma, and of your official letter of January 17th, - which came to hand yesterday afternoon. I beg at the same time to - be allowed to express my sincere congratulations to you and to your - party for the work you performed. - - I take note of your offer to deliver to me, or any person appointed - by me, the second instalment of goods brought by you, consisting of - sixty-three cases of Remington cartridges, twenty-six cases of - gunpowder, each 45 lbs. weight, four cases percussion caps, four - bales of goods, one bale of goods for Signor Casati--a gift from - yourself; two pieces of serge, writing-paper, envelopes, - blank-books, &c. As soon as the officers I am awaiting from Wadelai - come here, I shall appoint one of them to take charge of these - goods, and I shall at the same time instruct him to give you formal - receipt for them. - - The thirty-one cases of Remington cartridges, which formed the - first instalment of goods, have been duly deposited in Government - stores. - - Concerning your question if Signor Casati and myself propose to - accept your escort and assistance to reach Zanzibar, and if there - are any officers and men disposed to accept of your safe-conduct to - the sea, I have to state that not only Signor Casati and myself - would gladly avail us of your help, but that there are lots of - people desirous of going out from the far Egypt, as well as for any - other convenient place. As these people have been delayed by the - deplorable events which have happened during your absence, and as - only from a few days they begin to come in, I should entreat you to - kindly assist them. I propose to send them to Nyamsassi, and a - first party start to-day with Mr. Jephson. Every one of them has - provisions enough to last at least for a month. - - I beg to tender my thanks for the statement of your movements. As - from the day you fixed your movements until the arrival of your - letter elapsed nine days; the remainder of the time you kindly gave - us, viz., eleven days, will scarcely be sufficient. I cannot, - therefore, but thank you for your good intentions, and those of the - people who sent you, and I must leave it to you if you can await - us, and prefer to start after the twenty days have elapsed. - - I fully understand the difficulties of getting food and provisions - for your people, and I am very sorry that the short time you have - to give me will not be sufficient to send you stores from here. - - As Mr. Jephson starts by this steamer, and has kindly promised to - hand you this note, I avail myself of the occasion to bear witness - to the great help and assistance his presence afforded to me. Under - the most trying circumstances he has shown so splendid courage, - such unfaltering kindness and patience, that I cannot but wish him - every success in life, and thank him for all his forbearance. As - probably I shall not see you any more,[6] you will be pleased to - inform his relations of my thanks to him and them. - - Before concluding, I beg to be permitted to tender anew my most - heartfelt thanks to you and to your officers and men, and to ask - you to transmit my everlasting gratitude to the kind people who - sent you to help us. May God protect you and your party, and give - you a happy and speedy homeward march. - -I am, Sir, -Your obedient servant, -(Signed) Dr. EMIN PASHA. - - - - - - - -CHAPTER XXV. - -EMIN PASHA AND HIS OFFICERS REACH OUR CAMP AT KAVALLI. - - Lieut. Stairs and his caravan are sent for--Plans regarding the - release of Emin from Tunguru--Conversations with Jephson by which I - acquire a pretty correct idea of the state of affairs--The rebel - officers at Wadelai--They release Emin, and proceed in the s.s. - _Khedive_ and _Nyanza_ to our camp at Kavalli--Emin Pasha's - arrival--Stairs and his caravan arrive at - Mazamboni's--Characteristic letter from Jephson, who is sent to - bring Emin and his officers from the Lake to Kavalli--Short note - from the Pasha--Arrival of Emin Pasha's caravan--We make a grand - display outside our camp--At the grand divan: Selim Bey--Stairs' - column rolls into camp with piles of wealth--Mr. Bonny despatched - to the Nyanza to bring up baggage--Text of my message to the rest - of the revolted officers at Wadelai--Note from Mr. Bonny--The Greek - merchant, Signor Marco, arrives--Suicide of Zanzibari named - Mrima--Neighbouring chiefs supply us with carriers--Captain Nelson - brings in Emin's baggage--Arrangements with the chiefs from the - Ituri River to the Nyanza--The chief Kabba-Rega--Emin Pasha's - daughter--Selim Bey receives a letter from Fadl-el-Mulla--The Pasha - appointed naturalist and meteorologist to the Expedition--The Pasha - a Materialist--Dr. Hassan's arrival--My inspection over the - camp--Capt. Casati arrives--Mr. Bonny appears with Awash Effendi - and his baggage--The rarest doctor in the world--Discovery of some - chimpanzees--The Pasha in his vocation of - "collecting"--Measurements of the dwarfs--Why I differ with Emin in - the judgment of his men--Various journeys from the camp to the Lake - for men and baggage--The Zanzibaris' complaints--The - ringleaders--Hassan Bakari--The Egyptian officers--Interview with - Shukri Agha--The flora on the Baregga Hills--The chief of Usiri - joins our confederacy--Conversation with Emin regarding Selim Bey - and Shukri Agha--Address by me to Stairs, Nelson, Jephson and Parke - before Emin Pasha--Their replies--Notices to Selim Bey and Shukri - Agha. - - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -Feb. 7. - -Kavalli's.] - -On February 7th I decided to send for Lieutenant Stairs and his caravan, -and despatched Rashid with thirty-five men to obtain a hundred carriers -from Mazamboni to assist the convalescents. My object was to collect the -expedition at Kavalli, and send letters in the meantime to Emin Pasha -proposing that he should: 1st. Seize a steamer and embark such people -as chose to leave Tunguru, and sail for our Lake shore camp. After which -we could man her with Zanzibaris, and perform with despatch any further -transport service necessary. If this was not practicable, then-- - -2nd. To march to Mswa station overland, and on arrival to report by -canoe that he had done so. If this was not possible. - -3rd. Stay at Tunguru, and let me know by Chief Mogo whether he needed a -force of rescue. - -[Illustration: VIEW OF CAMP AT KAVALLI.] - -In which case, on arrival of Lieutenant Stairs, I proposed to march with -300 rifles and 2,000 native auxiliaries through Melindwa to Mswa -station, and thence to Tunguru, to employ force for the relief of the -Pasha. But it was absolutely necessary that I should be clearly told -what the Pasha wished. In his letter of the 27th January there was a -disposition to be somewhat lachrymose and melancholic, quite contrary to -what was expected in answer to the definite question given in the formal -letter of January 17th, "Was he disposed to accept our escort and -assistance to reach Zanzibar, or suggest to me any way by which I could -make myself useful or lend effective aid." If he stated his wish -decisively then, then I promised "to strain every effort to perform -service to him." - -Perceiving that neither my letter to Mr. Jephson--which was intended to -be read to the Pasha--nor that my formal letter to himself was -understood by him, I proceeded to write one after a purely business -style, which I thought the dullest private in his army might understand, -but when Jephson heard it read he affected to be aghast at it. - -As there was no intention to wound the most super-sensitive -susceptibilities of any person--least of all the Pasha--I wrote one -after a style which probably Chesterfield himself would have admitted -was the proper thing, which my friend Jephson pronounced was "charming," -and "nice," and "exquisitely sweet," and on the 8th sent the couriers -down to the Lake with it. - -Day by day, during conversation with Mr. Jephson--who was, "by the bye," -a pronounced Eminist--I acquired a pretty correct idea of the state of -affairs. There was one confirmed habit I observed that Mr. Jephson had -contracted during his compulsory residence with the Pasha which provoked -a smile, and that was, while saying several crushing things about the -Province, he interlarded his clever remarks with--"Well, you know, the -poor, dear Pasha! He is a dear old fellow, you know. 'Pon my word, I -can't help but sympathise with the Pasha, he's such a dear good man," -&c., &c. They served to illuminate traits of character, and showed that, -at all events, Jephson had a kindly heart, and what he had seen and -heard only made him esteem the Pasha the more; but when he spoke of the -Egyptians, the most portentous vocabulary was requisitioned to load them -with abuse--"unmitigated scoundrels, depraved villains, treacherous -dogs, unscrupulously vile," &c., &c. The Egyptians were "animals with -foxy natures," the Soudanese were "brutishly stupid." One chief clerk -had falsified accounts at the Khartoum Arsenal, and had been the -recipient of 1,500 stripes with the kourbash; another had been detected -making huge profits by mixing powdered charcoal with the gunpowder, and -filling Remington cartridges with it. A major had been convicted of -trading in Government stores; others had been sent to the Siberia of the -Equator as convicts, guilty of various felonies, arson, murder, &c.; -others were transported thither for being concerned in Arabi's -rebellion, &c., &c.; and it became clear that whatever sanguine hopes -the Pasha had cherished, he must often have distrusted his powers during -his constrained intercourse with the penal outcasts placed under him. -While there was a reserve of dominating power, and an overshadowing -personality of stern justice in the figure of Gordon at Khartoum, the -penal serfs were under some control, though Gessi Pasha, even as far -back as 1879, was copious in complaints of Emin to Gordon, but when the -news spread throughout the Province that Khartoum was taken, and the -Governor-General slain, and all traces of Egyptian Government had -vanished, the native unruliness of the Egyptians, and brutish -stubbornness of the Soudanese found vent, and was manifested in utter -disregard to orders, and perverse misconduct. Emin was now a Pasha in -name and title only. Government was petrified, order was dead. Some men, -in Emin's place, would have become so disgusted, that after arming -themselves with excuses for retreat by overt proofs of contempt of his -authority, would have collected a few faithful men, or have retired to -some small post like Mswa station at the remote South, reported frankly -the events, and have applied for relief and instructions. Others, again, -would have exacted performance of duty and discipline to the very end, -regardless of consequences. Others, again, would have removed with such -as were willing from the arena of perpetual discord, founded an empire -or a kingdom, and have applied for assistance from the civilized world, -which they would certainly have obtained. Others, like Emin did, would -have temporised and hoped. Men, however, reap only what they have sown; -as the seed is sown, so will be the harvest. - -But while we were discussing the probable decision of the Pasha, and -awaiting the arrival of Stairs's column, events unknown to us were -occurring, which decided the matter for us as well as for Emin. - -The rebel officers, who were concentrated at Wadelai, while Jephson was -on his way to us South of Tunguru, heard of our arrival on the Lake. -Report had magnified our forces. We had several hundred Zanzibaris and -allies, and we were armed with machine guns and repeating rifles. The -Egyptian Government at Khartoum was dead, and in its place was a Khalif, -with resistless armies fully established. There were Mahdist agents and -traitors among them, the rest were indifferent. Emin was deposed, and a -prisoner. To him who hath shall be given. Like a rolling snowball, -power, when once established, attracts and grows; an isolated snowdrop -melts. Emin was the snowdrop, the Khalif of Khartoum was the growing -snowball. - -It is easy, therefore, to understand the motives of the officers, who -are declared rebels, who have traitors and Mahdists among them to -influence their councils, and to predict what the natural outcome will -be. They will curry favour with the Khalif by betraying their would-be -rescuers and their former Pasha and his white companions into his hands, -and win honour and glory by so doing. For the machine guns, repeating -rifles and Remingtons, and a batch of white prisoners, the Khalif would -reward them handsomely, and promote those chiefly concerned in their -delivery to him to honourable and lucrative offices, and endow them with -robes of honour. But there is a difficulty. How will they gain access to -the camp of their rescuers when they have heard of the Pasha being -imprisoned and their friend Jephson having been treated so cruelly? -"Nothing easier," says one; "let us send a deputation to the Pasha to -humbly ask forgiveness, and promise to reinstate him in power, and Emin -is so good-natured that he will readily condone our offences, and offer -to introduce us to his friends as penitents, who, wearied with trouble, -only now seek to prove their obedience and loyalty to their great -Government. Once in the stranger's camp, we may see for ourselves what -further can be done, and if we then agree to capture the gang of whites -and their followers, nothing will be easier, for all white men are -soft-headed duffers. At any rate, it is wise to have two ways from which -to choose. If the Khalif is relentless, and his Donagla pursue us with -that fierceness so characteristic of them, and the door to his mercy is -closed, we can fall back upon the camp of the white men, and by apparent -obedience disarm all suspicion, make use of them to find us a land of -plenty, and suddenly possess ourselves of their arms and ammunition, and -either send them adrift as beggars, or slay the whites and make their -followers our slaves." - -We can imagine the thunders of applause that greeted this Egyptian son -of Beelzebub as he ended his oration. But whether such a speech was made -or not, the officers despatched a deputation to the Pasha, of fourteen -officers. They kissed Emin's hands, they expressed humble contrition for -their offences, they offered to reinstate him in power as Governor, and -they implored him to accompany them to Stanley's Camp at Kavalli, and to -speak for them, and the Pasha gladly acceded to their request. He -embarked on board the steamer _Khedive_; refugees crowded on board with -their goods and baggage, and Captain Casati was with them with his -following, and the _Nyanza_ likewise was freighted, and with every show -of honour the Pasha was brought to Mswa. At this station he met my -messengers with my last letter, and having read it, he resumed his -voyage to our Lake shore Camp. - -While Jephson and I were at dinner on the evening of February 13th, -messengers came to us and delivered to us a letter from Emin Pasha. - -Camp, -_February 13th_, 1889. - -TO HENRY M. STANLEY, Esq., Commanding the Relief Expedition. - - SIR,-- - - In answer to your letter of the 7th instant, for which I beg to - tender my best thanks, I have the honour to inform you that - yesterday, at 3 P.M., I arrived here with my two steamers, carrying - a first lot of people desirous to leave this country under your - escort. As soon as I have arranged for cover of my people, the - steamships have to start for Mswa station, to bring on another lot - of people awaiting transport. - - With me there are some twelve officers anxious to see you, and only - forty soldiers. They have come under my orders to request you to - give them some time to bring their brothers--at least, such as are - willing to leave--from Wadelai, and I promised them to do my best - to assist them. Things having to some extent now changed, you will - be able to make them undergo whatever conditions you see fit to - impose upon them. To arrange these I shall start from here with the - officers for your camp, after having provided for the camp, and if - you send carriers I could avail me of some of them. - - I hope sincerely that the great difficulties you have had to - undergo, and the great sacrifices made by your Expedition in its - way to assist us, may be rewarded by a full success in bringing out - my people. The wave of insanity which overran the country has - subsided, and of such people as are now coming with me we may be - sure. - - Signor Casati requests me to give his best thanks for your kind - remembrance of him. - - Permit me to express to you once more my cordial thanks for - whatever you have done for us until now, and believe me to be, - -Yours very faithfully, -Dr. EMIN. - - - - -The Pasha evidently believes that his men are still faithful to him. He -says: "You will be able to make them undergo whatever conditions you see -fit to impose upon them...." "Of such people as are now coming with me -you may be sure." - -I hope so, but if one-half of what Jephson says is true, the Pasha must -have greater confidence in them than I can command. However, if the -"wave of insanity has subsided," so much the better. All is well that -ends well. Jephson will go down to the Lake to-morrow with fifty rifles, -to escort the Pasha and his officers to the Plateau. I shall send -couriers also to Stairs at Mazamboni's to bring up his force quickly, -that we may be all at hand to impress our rebel friends by the way our -wild fantastic warrior-carriers deploy at the word of command. - -_February 16th_.--Received note from Stairs announcing arrival at -Mazamboni's, which states he may arrive on the 17th or 18th instant. He -writes: "We were all delighted at the Ituri River Camp at the arrival of -your couriers with Chief Rashid, bringing the news that Jephson was with -you; but the news about Emin Pasha seemed very black. However, your -letter this morning dispels every foreboding, and now we all hope we -shall be able to move on with speed towards Zanzibar." - -Goodness, how impatient young men are! I wonder if we shall get away -within three months! - -Another courier has arrived from Jephson with one of Jephson's -characteristic letters. - -Were Camp, Albert Nyanza, _February 15th_, 1889. - - DEAR SIR,-- - - I reached this camp yesterday, but owing to the natives leading us - by a very long road we did not arrive till morning. - - We found the Pasha, Casati, Marco, Vita, the apothecary, and - several officers and clerks, who had made their camp in a very nice - spot about two miles north of our old camp, where we first met the - Pasha. - - On arriving, after having delivered your letter, and having told - and heard the news, I asked the Pasha when he proposed moving. He - said he must speak to his officers first. This morning a meeting - was called, and it was decided that we should start to-morrow for - Kavalli's, taking two days on the road. - - The Pasha will come to see you, will perhaps stay a few days in - your camp, and then return and bring up his daughter and the rest - of his loads, which amount to about 200, which consist of millet, - salt, sesame, &c. The officers will only bring twenty loads, as - they are merely coming up to talk with you for bringing up their - troops and goods. The clerks bring up all their loads and remain - with us. - - Both the steamers return to Mswa on the 18th, to bring up the rest - of the people and goods from that station, as well as to bring up - corn for the supply of the Lake camp. - - On the arrival of the steamers at Mswa, the irregulars (some fifty - guns) will march overhead to Kavalli's with such women as are able - to walk well, and the steamers, on their return here, will at once - take the officers down to Wadelai. - - The Pasha has brought sixty tusks of ivory; the surplus will - doubtless be useful. Though there is a day's delay, I do not regret - it, as both the Zanzibaris and myself were fairly worn out when we - reached here yesterday, and had we started to-day there would, I - fear, have been many sore feet. In spite, however, of our fatigue, - the Zanzibaris rushed madly into the camp, howling like demons. - They went through the usual mad exercises with imaginary enemies, - and then drew up in line before the Pasha. The soldiers drew up in - correct form and saluted him also. He was very pleased, and asked - me to say a few words to them, expressing his thanks to them for - all the trials they have gone through to help him, which I did, as - well as I was able, in my broken Ki-swa-hili. The Pasha set all the - women to grind corn, and I served out two cups apiece to them, the - Soudanese, Manyuema, and natives. To-day Saat Tato, the hunter, and - another, have brought in two kudu, and a springbok, so that they - have plenty to eat. I was much amused to see how the slothful ugly - Soudanese stared at the mad antics of the Zanzibaris, with the sort - of expression that said, What sort of people can these boisterous, - unruly Zanzibaris be? - - I find Casati more impossible than ever. I asked him whether he - would go with us to-morrow, and he replied he would rather wait. I - then asked, "How many loads have you?" - - "Oh," he answered, "you know I have very few things. All my things - were taken by Kabba-Rega; perhaps I may want eighty carriers." - - Vita, the apothecary, wants forty carriers, and Marco, the Greek - trader, wants sixty, so at this rate our Zanzibaris will be killed - between here and Kavalli's. The Pasha remonstrated with Casati for - taking all his grinding-stones, earthen jars, bedsteads for his - boys and women, &c., upon which he said:-- - - "Mr. Stanley has offered to take all our loads." - - These people have no conscience, and would rather load down our - long-suffering people than throw away a single load of rubbish - which they will eventually be obliged to discard. - - Casati, so the Pasha tells me, was averse to their leaving Tunguru, - in spite of Shukri Aga's offer of carriers, and my urgent letter, - and did all he could to prevent his coming down here, as he - considered it "impolitic." One internally fumes at the selfishness - of these people, and at their inability or aversion from seeing - things as they really are. - - The rumour of the "white man's" expedition to Fallibeg has turned - out to be, as Clerk Jopson says, "all a bam," and nothing more has - been heard of it. - - Casati refuses to move until he has sufficient carriers to take him - and all his goods away together. The Pasha is very irritated about - it. - - The boat (_Advance_) has been very well mended with bolts just like - our own. I am going on board the steamer this evening to get some - spanners, and, if possible, some spare bolts. The Pasha has also - brought the light oars, which belonged to Gordon's india-rubber - boat, so that we have now the full complement. - - The Pasha, Casati, and the officers desire me to send you their - greetings. - -I am, &c., &c., &c., -A. J. MOUNTENEY JEPHSON. - - - - -The Pasha, 200 loads! Casati, who has lost everything, eighty loads! -Vita, the apothecary, forty loads! Marco, the Greek, sixty loads! = 380 -loads for four persons! True, I promised to convey everything up to the -Plateau Camp but grinding stones! Well, if I gave such a promise, we -must keep it, I suppose. However, there is no harm in Mr. Jephson fuming -a little. - -From the Pasha the following note was received:-- - -DEAR SIR,-- - - Mr. Jephson with your people have arrived yesterday, and we - propose to start to-morrow morning; I shall therefore have the - pleasure to see you the day after to-morrow. My men are very - anxious to hear from your own lips that their foolish behaviour in - the past will not prevent you from guiding them. - - I am greatly obliged for your kindly letter,[7] handed to me by Mr. - Jephson, and I hope that my being somewhat African in my moods may - not interfere with our friendly relations. - -Agree, dear Sir, my best wishes, and believe me to be, -Yours very faithfully, -Dr. EMIN. - - - - -_February 17th_.--Emin Pasha's caravan, consisting of about sixty-five -persons, reached this camp about noon. The officers, who are a -deputation from the revolted troops at Wadelai, are headed by Selim -Bey--promoted to Bey by the Pasha. He is six feet high, large of girth, -about fifty years old, black as coal: I am rather inclined to like him. -The malignant and deadly conspirator is always lean. I read in this -man's face, indolence, a tendency to pet his animalism. He is a man to -be led, not to conspire. Feed him with good things to eat, and plenty to -drink, Selim Bey would be faithful. Ah, the sleepy eye of the -full-stomached man! This is a man to eat, and sleep, and snore, and play -the sluggard in bed, to dawdle slip-shod in the bed-chamber, to call for -coffee fifty times a day, and native beer by the gallon; to sip and sip -and smile and then to sleep again; and so and so to his grave. The -others are lean, of Cassius' make. Three of them were Egyptians, -something of Arabi in their facial mould; the others are black -Soudanese. - -We made a grand display outside the camp, banners waving, the Zanzibari -veterans like a wall of iron on each side of the pathway, the Manyuema -auxiliaries with a rough-and-ready look about them, the natives of -Kavalli and the neighbourhood in hundreds, banking the formation. - -Through the centre of the twin lines the Pasha, small and wiry of -figure, like a Professor of Jurisprudence in appearance, despite his -fez and white clothes, was escorted to the great square of the camp, and -straight to the Barzah. - -[Illustration: ADDRESS TO REBEL OFFICERS AT KAVALLI.] - -The officers, in brand new uniforms, rarely aired, evidently created a -great sensation. The natives hungrily looked at them, and looked with -gaping lips and projected eyes. - -At the Barzah house, the Pasha formally introduced these officers. We -mutually saluted. We enquired anxiously about each other's healths, and -expressed ourselves mutually gratified that there was no fear of -consumption, diabetes, or dysentery troubling us, and that possibly, -without fear of these ailments, we might meet on the morrow at a grand -divan, whereat each one would be pleased to express his heart's secret -desire. - -_February 18th._--The grand divan was held to-day. Each person present -was arrayed in his best uniform. After an interchange of elegant -compliments and coffee had been served, the Pasha was requested to be -good enough to enquire of the deputation if they would be pleased to -state their errand, or whether they would prefer that I should disclose -the object of this gathering from twenty lands near the shores of their -Lake. - -They expressed through the Pasha, who is admirable as a translator, and -who has the art of softening any rigour of speech that a plain -Anglo-Saxon might naturally use, that they would be greatly gratified to -hear me first. - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -Feb. 18. - -Kavalli's.] - -Well, I said, open your ears that the words of truth may enter. The -English people, hearing from your late guest, Dr. Junker, that you were -in sore distress here, and sadly in need of ammunition to defend -yourselves against the infidels and the followers of the false prophet, -have collected money, which they entrusted to me to purchase ammunition, -and to convey it to you for your needs. But as I was going through -Egypt, the Khedive asked me to say to you, if you so desired you might -accompany us, but that if you elected to stay here, you were free to -act as you thought best; if you chose the latter, he disclaimed all -intention of forcing you in any manner. Therefore you will please -consult your own wishes entirely, and speak whatever lies hidden in your -hearts. - -After the Pasha had translated there was a general murmur of -"Khweis"--good. - -Then Selim Bey, the superior officer, said-- - -"The Khedive is most gracious and kind. We are His Highness's most -devoted and loyal subjects. We cannot wish to stay here. We hail from -Cairo, and we desire nothing better than to visit the land of our -breeding again. Far be it from us to wish to stay here. What gain can be -obtained here? We are officers and soldiers of His Highness. He has but -to command, and we will obey. Those who choose to live among the pagans -here will do so. If they are left behind, it is their own fault. We have -been deputed by our brothers and friends at Wadelai to ask you to give -us only time to embark our families, so that we may assemble together in -your camp, and start for home." - -They then produced the following document, the translation of which is -as follows:-- - - "To His Excellency the Envoy of our Great Government, Mr. Stanley. - - "When Selim Bey Mator, commander of the troops of this province, - came here and told us of the news of your coming, we were greatly - rejoiced to learn of your safe arrival in this Province, and our - desire to reach our Government has been greatly augmented, and - therefore we hope, with the help of God, to be very soon with you, - and to inform you of this we have written this letter. - - Wadelai. - - Mabruk Shereef, Lieutenant. Ali el Kurdi, Lieutenant. - Noor Abd el bein " Ahmed Sultan " - Mustapha Ahmed " Fadl el Mula Bakhit " - Halid Abdallah " Dais el Bint Abdallah " - Faraj Sid Hamed " Said Ibrahim " - Mursal Sudan " Hussein Mohamed, Captain. - Murjan Ndeen " Murjan Idris " - Sabah el Hami " Mustapha el Adjemi " - Bakhit Mohamed " Kher Yusuf es Said " - Adeen Ahmed " Marjan Bakhit " - Ismail Hussein " Surur Sudan " - Mohamed Abdu " Abdallah Mauzal " - Halid Majib " Fadl el Mulla el Emin " - Ahmed Idris " Ahmed el Dinkani " - Rehan Rashid " Kadi Ahmed " - Rikas Hamed en Nil " Said Abd es Sid " - Halil Sid Ahmed " Bakhit Bergoot, Adjutant Major. - Feraj Mohamed " Bilal Dinkani " - - - -[Illustration: DWARFS AND SOUDANESE, WITH OFFICERS.] - -I then said: "I have heard with attention what you have spoken. I shall -give you a written promise to the effect that you are granted a -sufficient time to proceed from here to Wadelai to collect your troops -and embark them with your families on board the steamers. It takes five -days for a steamer to proceed to Wadelai, and five days to return. I -shall give you a reasonable time for this work, and if I see that you -are really serious in your intentions, I shall be quite willing to -extend the time in order that we may proceed homeward in comfort." - -Selim Bey and his officers answered simultaneously, "We are serious in -our intentions, and there is no occasion for delay." To which I, wholly -convinced, readily assented. The meeting terminated. An ox was presented -to them and their followers for meat rations; and ten gallons of beer, -with loads of sweet potatoes and bananas, were dispatched to their -quarters for their entertainment. - -At noon, Stairs' column rolled into camp with piles of -wealth--Remington, Maxim and Winchester fixed ammunition, gunpowder, -percussion caps, bales of handkerchiefs, white cottons, blue cutch -cloths, royal striped robes, beads of all colours, coils of bright wire, -&c. &c. There were Zanzibaris, Madis, Lados, Soudanese, Manyuema, -Baregga, Bandusuma, dwarfs and giants; in all, 312 carriers. - -The stay on the Ituri River had benefited the men greatly. As Surgeon -Parke came in, I mentally blessed him, for to this fine display of -convalescents he had largely contributed by his devotion. - -The camp numbers now over 500 people, and the huts extend on each side -of a great open square, 200 yards long by 60 wide. As a fire would be -most destructive, a liberal space is preserved between each hut. - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -Feb. 19. - -Kavalli's.] - -_February 19th._--I have despatched Mr. William Bonny to the Nyanza with -thirty rifles and sixty-four Bavira natives, to bring up the baggage of -Captain Casati, Signor Marco, the Greek, and Dr. Vita Hassan. I propose -sending at intervals a company of men from our camp (which is on top of -the plateau, 4,800 feet above the sea level) to the Lake shore, which is -about 2,400 above the sea. The journey is a long and tiring day's march, -but the round trip is made within three days. The plateau slope is very -steep and stony. I have vowed not to descend it again for any idle -purpose. I have already been up and down four times; would as soon -undergo shot-drill or the treadmill as undertake it again. Bonny, of -course, will be curious to see the Lake, as this is his first visit. - -Called Selim Bey and his officers to the Barzah house, and delivered to -him my message to the revolted officers at Wadelai. - - SALAAMS! - - The officers, Selim Bey, and others, having requested Mr. Stanley - to await the arrival of their friends from Wadelai, Mr. Stanley - causes his answer to be written down in order to prevent - misunderstanding. - - Mr. Stanley and his officers having been specially sent by the - Khedive as guides to show the road to such people as desired to - leave the Equatorial province for Cairo, cannot do otherwise than - consent to give such reasonable time as may be required for the - assembling of all people willing to depart with him. - - It must, however, be positively understood that all men proposing - to depart with Mr. Stanley must provide their own means of carriage - for themselves, their families, and baggage. No exception can be - made except for the Pasha, Captain Casati, and the Greek merchant - named Marco, the two last being strangers and not in the Egyptian - service. - - Therefore all officers and men proposing to depart from this - country with Mr. Stanley will be careful to provide such animals - and porters as they may need for the transport of their children - and goods. - - They will also be careful not to burden themselves with superfluous - articles; arms, clothing, ammunition, cooking pots, and provisions - being the only necessaries needed. - - The reserve ammunition, which has been brought from Egypt for the - service of the Pasha and his people, is of course at the - disposition of the Pasha only, according to the orders of His - Highness the Khedive. - - Mr. Stanley wishes it to be distinctly understood that he is - responsible only for finding the right road, and for provisioning - all the people according to the nature of the country. - - Mr. Stanley, however, holds himself in honor bound to do all in his - power for the comfort, safety, and welfare of Emin Pasha and his - people, and to assist his friends in all things to the best of his - ability. - - On the arrival of this answer before the officers at Wadelai, the - officers responsible for the direction of the people will do well - to hold a general council, and consider this answer before moving. - Such people as believe in their hearts that they have the courage - and means to depart from the Equatorial Province will prepare to - proceed to this camp as directed by the Pasha. Such people as are - doubtful of their power and ability to move, will act as the - superiors of the party will decide. - - Mr. Stanley, in the meanwhile, will form an advance camp to make - ready for the reception of such people as are going out. - - At Kavalli's, HENRY M. STANLEY, - _February 19th, 1889._ Commanding the Relief Expedition. - - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -Feb. 21. - -Kavalli's.] - -_February 21st_.--Chief Katonza on the Lake shore has been sending -messengers to the Lake camp to inform Captain Casati that Kabba Regga, -King of Unyoro, had seized his cattle on the 19th inst., and that his -next objective was Casati's camp. - -What followed may be gleaned from the following note just received from -Mr. W. Bonny:-- - - "At the wish of Signor Casati I send you this note. He is writing - his own views to the Pasha. He states that Kabba Regga's general - has a strong force somewhere near, and wishes me to remain another - day that you may reinforce me. I have agreed to send a messenger, - but decline to remain. I have pointed out to him, that if there is - danger, I cannot risk my men unnecessarily. My men will leave with - the loads this morning. I have endeavoured to persuade Casati that - if he wishes to avoid danger, he can march under our escort to the - Plateau. If Kabba Regga's people meet me on the road I hope to make - them learn that they have met some of Stanley's men. - -"Yours, &c., -"W. BONNY." - - - - -The native courier arrived with this news at 2 P.M. The Pasha and -officers started immediately for the Lake camp with sixty rifles and -sixty natives of the plateau. I do not think there will be any irruption -of the Wanyoro into territory protected by us, but it is better to be on -the safe side. - -_February 22nd._--The Greek merchant Signor Marco, a fine manly-looking -man much browned by tropic heat, arrived to-day, escorted by Mr. Bonny. -Marco has an eye to comfort I see. In his train are domestics bearing -parrots, pigeons, bedsteads for himself and harem, heavy Persian -carpets, ox-hide mats and enormous baskets, and, oh horror! he has -actually brought three hundredweight of stone to serve as grinding -stones to reduce his grain to flour, as though the natives here could -not lend us any number of grinding stones. He has brought, besides, ten -gallon pots to make beer, and to use as water vessels. If all the -refugees are similarly encumbered, we shall, I fear, be employed here -for months. That was a rash promise of mine to convey all their -property. I will wait a little to note if all the officers, clerks, and -soldiers expect me to regard stone as baggage. - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -Feb. 23. - -Kavalli's.] - -_Feb. 23rd._--One of our Zanzibaris named Mrima, impatient at the slow -progress towards recovery from a large and painful ulcer, shot himself -with a Remington rifle to-day. Poor fellow, I remember him as a cheery, -willing, and quick boy. - -The Pasha writes me that all is well at the Lake camp. - -_Feb. 24th._--Sent twenty-five rifles, under headman Wadi Khamis, to -escort fifty of Mpinga's natives as carriers. - -I have notified all the chiefs of the various tribes on the plateau that -they must supply carriers varying from fifty to one hundred each, -according to their strength, to assist me in the transport of the -baggage of our guests. Eleven have consented to proceed to the Lake in -rotation, provided I protect their people from the brutality of the -strangers, who, they say, have been beating their people in the most -cruel manner, and making them carry "stones" of too heavy a weight for a -man. This is the first time I have heard of this, and will make -inquiries immediately. - -_Feb. 25th._--Captain Nelson, who escorted the Pasha to the Lake the -other day, brought in sixty loads of baggage, mostly belonging to the -Pasha. I observe an immense number of articles that must necessarily be -thrown away. There is an old Saratoga trunk, which was borne by two men. -I tried to lift one end of it, and from its weight I should say it -contains stones or treasure. What a story that old trunk could tell -since it left Cairo. How many poor natives has it killed? How much -anguish has it caused? The Zanzibaris smile grimly at the preposterously -large size of the boxes they have to carry. They declare there are -thousands of such cumbrous articles yet, and that they will be kept here -for ten years. The square is littered with sea-chests and clumsy -coffin-like coffers, the ten-gallon jars increase in number, and the -baskets look bigger and ominously heavy. - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -Feb. 25. - -Kavalli's.] - -One man, an Egyptian, named Achmet Effendi, who came up, is about -fifty-five years old, bent, thin, feeble, and sick. He is unable to ride -a donkey without assistance. - -I foresee a terrible mortality, if only sick and feeble men and women -propose to undertake the 1,400 miles journey to the sea. Already a large -number of small children, from one to eight years old, have arrived. -These will have to be carried. By whom? - -A Soudanese woman gave birth to a child on the road. Another child is so -ill that it cannot survive long. - -Lieut. Stairs was despatched with Chief Mwite to stir up his refractory -people, who for the last four days have sent us no food. - -We have formed a confederacy on the plateau, embracing all the region -from the Ituri River to the Nyanza. For protection granted them against -marauding Balegga of the mountains and the Warasura Kabba Rega, the -chiefs agree to supply us with contributions of grain and cattle, and to -surrender the government of the country into my hands, to raise fighting -men whenever ordered, and to assist me in invading Unyoro should -retaliation for invasion of their soil by the Warasura render it -necessary. - -_Feb. 26th._--An ally of Kabba Rega was attacked this morning, and 125 -head of cattle were captured. Much mischief has been done by this man, -and already he occupies the country between here and the Pasha's -province, and Kabba Rega relied on him for assistance when the grand -struggle between him and the Pasha should begin. Communication is made -across the Lake in canoes, and Kabba Rega is well informed of our -movements. When we retire from here we shall have to reckon with Kabba -Rega. He possesses 1,500 guns; mostly rifles and double-barrelled shot -guns, Jocelyn and Starr, Sharp, Henry-Martini, and Snider rifles, and -carbines. Having undertaken the serious work of protecting these -hundreds of refugees to the sea, I shall enter on the affair with a -clear conscience. We will not seek a struggle; the opposing forces are -not matched, but there is only one road, and that runs through a portion -of Unyoro. - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -Feb. 27. - -Kavalli's.] - -_Feb. 27th_.--Our cattle were driven to pasture this morning, but the -calves were most intractable, and created great fun and not a little -trouble. We have milk and meat for our sick now. - -I hear that Selim Bey and the Egyptian officers departed on the 26th -inst. by the steamers _Khedive_ and _Nyanza_, which brought to the Lake -camp from Mswa a large cargo of baggage and several score of fresh -refugees. - -Emin Pasha reached camp this morning from the Lake. He was accompanied -by his daughter, a little girl of six years old, named Ferida, the -offspring of an Abyssinian woman. She is extremely pretty, with large, -beautiful black eyes. - -104 carriers conveyed the Pasha's luggage and stores of flour, millet, -sesamum, honey, and salt. - -The head man, Wadi Khamis, who escorted this caravan, reports that one -of Selim Bey's officers stole a Remington rifle and took it with him. -This is odd. If these people meditate returning here they should be -aware that theft of arms is severely punished. - -The Pasha informs me that another mail arrived from Wadelai on the 25th, -and that an official letter was handed to Selim Bey from the rebel -officers headed by Fadl-el-Mulla, announcing to him that he was deposed -from his position as Chief Commander of the Troops, and that he, the -Pasha and Casati, were sentenced to death by court-martial. Captain -Fadl-el-Mulla has promoted himself on assuming authority to the rank of -Bey or Colonel. This is quite in Jack Cade's style. We must now call him -Fadl-el-Mulla Bey. - -_Feb. 28th_.--Sent fifty rifles and seventy-two natives of the Wabiaasi -and Ruguji tribes under Lieut. Stairs to the Lake camp to escort another -contingent of refugees and convey baggage up to the plateau. - -_March 1st_.--The Pasha, with his own consent, and indeed on his own -proposal, has been appointed naturalist and meteorologist to the -Expedition. He has accordingly received one aneroid, one max. and min. -thermometer, one Bath thermometer, one standard thermometer, two -boiling-point thermometers, which, added to his own instruments, equip -him completely. No expedition could be so well served as ours will be. -He is the most industrious and exact observer that I know.[8] - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -March 1. - -Kavalli's.] - -The Pasha is in his proper element as naturalist and meteorologist. He -is of the school of Schweinfurth and Holub. His love of science borders -on fanaticism. I have attempted to discover during our daily chats -whether he was Christian or Moslem, Jew or Pagan, and I rather suspect -that he is nothing more than a Materialist. Who can say why votaries of -science, though eminently kindly in their social relations, are so -angular of character? In my analysis of the scientific nature I am -constrained to associate with it, as compared with that of men who are -more Christians than scientists, a certain hardness, or rather -indelicacy of feeling. They strike me as being somewhat unsympathetic, -and capable of only cold friendship, coolly indifferent to the warmer -human feelings. I may best express what I mean by saying that I think -they are more apt to feel an affection for one's bleached skull and -frame of unsightly bones, than for what is divine within a man. If one -talks about the inner beauty, which to some of us is the only beauty -worth anything, they are apt to yawn, and to return an apologetic and -compassionate smile. They seem to wish you to infer that they have -explored the body through and through, and that it is waste of time to -discuss what only exists in the imagination. - -Sent seventy-two natives of Mpigwa's tribe under twelve Zanzibaris to -Lake camp for baggage. - -Up to date 514 loads of baggage have been conveyed from the Lake shore -to our camp on the plateau. - -_March 2nd_.--Dr. Vita Hassan, of Tunis, has arrived in charge of -Lieut. Stairs, with 122 carriers. - -_March 3rd_.--Mr. Bonny descended to the Nyanza to-day with fifty-two -Zanzibaris and forty natives of the tribe of Malai and Mabise. - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -March 3. - -Kavalli's.] - -I went over the camp on an inspection. I find that we have here -representatives of Germany, Greece, Tunis, England, Ireland, Italy, -America, Egypt, Nubia, Madiland, Monbuttu, Langgo, Bari, Shuli, -Zanzibar, Usagara, Useguhha, Udoe, Unyamwezi, Uganda, Unyoro, Bavira, -Wahuma, Marungu, Manyuema, Basoko, Usongora, Congo, Arabia, Johanna, -Comoro, Madagascar, Somali, Circassia, Turkey!!! besides pigmies from -the Great Forest, and giants from the Blue Nile. - -The camp is rapidly spreading out into a town. Order is maintained -without any trouble. Eighty gallons of milk are served out daily to the -sick, and six pounds of beef per week per man, besides flour, sweet -potatoes, peas, beans, and bananas with liberal measure. - -There must be a fearful consumption of food in the Soudanese camp if one -may judge from the quantity of flour that is being ground. From the -early morning until late in the afternoon the sound of the grinding -stones and the sweet voices of the grinders are heard. - -The tribe of Mpigwa arrived with seventy loads from the Lake shore. -These came up with Capt. Casati, to whom the baggage belongs. - -_March 5th_.--Mr. Bonny appeared this morning with ninety-four loads of -luggage from below. He was accompanied by the Major of the 2nd -Battalion, Awash Effendi. I am told all this monstrous pile belongs to -him alone. Ninety-four loads represent a weight of 2-1/3 tons. - -Mr. Mounteney Jephson started for the Nyanza this morning with forty-two -Zanzibaris and Manyuema. - -During the six weeks we have been here three men and a baby have died. - -This Expedition possesses the rarest doctor in the world. No country in -Europe can produce his equal in my opinion. There may be many more -learned perhaps, more skilful, older, or younger, as the case may be, -but the best of them have something to learn from our doctor. He is such -a combination of sweetness and simplicity. So unostentatious, so -genuinely unobtrusive. We are all bound to him with cords of love. We -have seen him do so much out of pure love for his "cases," that human -nature becomes ennobled by this gem. He is tenderness itself. He has -saved many lives by his devoted nursing. We see him each day at 8 A.M.. -and 5 P.M. with his selectest circle of "sick" around him. None with -tender stomach dare approach it. He sits in the centre as though it were -a rare perfume. The sloughing ulcers are exposed to view, some fearful -to behold, and presenting a spectacle of horror. The doctor smiles and -sweetly sniffs the tainted air, handles the swollen limbs, cleanses them -from impurity, pours the soothing lotion, cheers the sufferers, binds up -the painful wounds, and sends the patient away with a hopeful and -gratified look. May the kindly angels record this nobleness and -obliterate all else. I greatly honour what is divine in man. This gift -of gentleness and exquisite sensibility appeal to the dullest. At -Abu-Klea our doctor was great; the wounded had cause to bless him; on -the green sward of Kavalli, daily ministering to these suffering blacks, -unknowing and unheeding whether any regarded him, our doctor was greater -still. - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -March 5. - -Kavalli's.] - -_March 6th_.--Some chimpanzees have been discovered in a grove which -fills a deep hollow in the Baregga Hills. The Pasha has shown me a -carefully prepared skull of one which he procured near Mswa. It exactly -resembles one I picked up at Addiguhha, a village between the two -branches of the Ihuru River. The chimpanzee is the "soko" of -Livingstone, though he grows to an unusual size in the Congo forest. - -During the few days we have been here the Pasha has been indefatigable -in adding to his collection of birds, larks, thrushes, finches, -bee-eaters, plantain eaters, sunbirds, &c., &c. - -The Pasha appears to be extraordinarily happy in this vocation of -"collecting." I have ordered the Zanzibaris to carry every strange -insect, bird, and reptile to him. Even vermin do not appear amiss to -him. We are rewarded by seeing him happy. - -Each morning his clerk Rajab roams around to murder every winged fowl of -the air, and every victim of his aim he brings to his master, and then -after lovingly patting the dead object he coolly gives the order to skin -it. By night we see it suspended, with a stuffing of cotton within, to -be in a day or two packed up as a treasure for the British Museum! - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -March 6. - -Kavalli's.] - -These "collectors" strike me as being a rare race. Schweinfurth boiled -the heads of the slain in Monbuttu once to prepare the skulls for a -Berlin museum. Emin Pasha proposes to do the same should we have a brush -with the Wanyoro. I suggested to him that the idea was shocking; that -possibly the Zanzibaris might object to it. He smiled: "All for -science." - -This trait in the scientific man casts some light upon a mystery. I have -been attempting to discover the reasons why we two, he and I, differ in -our judgments of his men. We have some dwarfs in the camp. The Pasha -wished to measure their skulls; I devoted my observations to their inner -nature. He proceeded to fold his tape round the circumference of the -chest; I wished to study the face. The Pasha wondered at the feel of the -body; I marvelled at the quick play of the feelings as revealed in -lightning movements of the facial muscles. The Pasha admired the breadth -of the frontal bone;[9] I studied the tones of the voice, and watched -how beautifully a slight flash of the eye coincided with the slightest -twitch of a lip. The Pasha might know to a grain what the body of the -pigmy weighed, but I only cared to know what the inner capacity was. - -[Illustration: THE PYGMIES UNDER THE LENS, AS COMPARED TO CAPTAIN -CASATI'S SERVANT OKILI.] - -And this is the reason the Pasha and I differ about the characters of -his men. He knows their names, their families, their tribes, their -customs; and little as I have been with them, I think I know their -natures. The Pasha says they are faithful; I declare they are false. He -believes that the day he leaves Kavalli they will all follow him to a -man; I imagine he will be wofully deceived. He argues that he has known -them for thirteen years, and he ought to know better than I who have not -known them as many weeks. Very well, let it be so. Time will decide. -Nevertheless, these discussions make the days at Kavalli pass smoothly, -for the Pasha is an accomplished conversationalist. - -_March 7th_.--Mr. Mounteney Jephson arrived from the Lake shore with -Mohammed Emin and family, an Egyptian widow, and four orphan children. - -Surgeon Parke was permitted a holiday, to be devoted to leading to the -Nyanza fifty-two Zanzibaris, thirty natives, and nineteen Manyuema for -conveyance of luggage here. - -_March 8th_.--Uledi, the hero of old days, was despatched with -twenty-one carriers to carry loads from the Lake to this camp. - -_March 9th_.--Surgeon Parke has returned with his caravan. "Well, -doctor," said I, "how did you like your holiday?" He smiled. "It may be -agreeable as a change, but it is fearful work. I see that the best men -are pulled down by that steep long climb up the plateau slope. I hear a -great deal of grumbling." - -"I am aware," I replied, "of what is going on. But what can we do? -These people are our guests. We are bound to help them as much as -possible. We indeed came here for that purpose. I wish, however, they -would leave those stones behind, for even the carriers laugh at the -absurd idea of carrying an 80lb. rock such a fearful height. However, -when the Zanzibaris are tired of it, they will let me know in some way. -Meantime, let us see to how far a point they will push our patience." - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -March 9. - -Kavalli's.] - -_March 10th_.--This morning as the Zanzibaris mustered for the detail to -be picked out for the usual caravan to the Nyanza, they demanded to -speak to me. The speaker was applauded every few minutes by the -companies as they stood under their respective officers. - -"Sir," said he, "we are tired of this work of carrying rocks, and great -double-load boxes, and wooden bedsteads. If we did not think it were a -waste of labour we would not speak. Whither can they take the rubbish we -have been obliged to carry up here? Will any one man undertake to carry -one of those huge coffins a day's march through the bush? The strongest -man in the world would be killed under it. For whom are we doing it? For -a set of thankless, heartless people, who profess God with their lips, -and know nothing of Him or of the prophet Mohammed--blessed be his name! -Besides, what do they think of us? They call us _abid_--slaves. They -think that any one of them can lick ten of us. They say that some day -they will take our rifles from us, and make us their slaves. We know -enough Arabic to know what they mean, bad as their slang Arabic is. We -have come to ask you how long this is to last? If you mean to kill us, -who were saved out of the forest, with this ungrateful work, please tell -us. We are your servants, and we must do your bidding." - -"It is well," I replied. "I have heard your speech. I knew you would -come to this. But you must have some faith in me. Trust to me. Go on to -the Nyanza to-day, and when you return I will explain further." - -Captain Nelson was appointed leader of the caravan of 81 Zanzibaris, -Soudanese, and Manyuema, and marched away with them. - -I observed that the people declined their rations for the journey, and -that they were unmistakably discontented and in an evil mood. Fearing -trouble, I sent messengers after Captain Nelson to send me the two who -seemed to be the principals under guard back to camp. The Captain on -receipt of the order commanded the Soudanese to take them, upon which -the fifty Zanzibaris set up a loud yell of defiance, and some cried, -"Shoot them all, and let us go to Mazamboni." - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -March 10. - -Kavalli's.] - -The Captain, however, was firm, and insisted on sending them to me, -whereupon they said they would all return to camp to protect their -friends. - -Seeing the caravan return, the signal to muster under arms was given, -and the companies were drawn up in position to prevent any sudden -manoeuvre. - -The malcontents were formed in line in the centre, and on looking at -them I saw that little was needed to provoke strife. I sympathised with -them secretly, but could not overlook such a serious breach of -discipline. - -"Now, my men," I said, "obey me at once, and to the letter. He who -hesitates is lost. Open your ears and be sharp. 'Ground arms!' It was -done promptly. 'Retire four paces to the rear!' They withdrew quietly. -'Now, Captain Stairs, march your company to the front, and take -possession of the rifles," which was done. - -Captain Nelson was then ordered to make his report as to the cause of -the caravan's return. He pointed out the ringleaders concerned in the -outbreak, and those who had cried, "Shoot them all, and let us run to -Mazamboni." These were at once seized and punished. The ringleaders were -tied to the flag-staff. The caravan was again entrusted to Captain -Nelson, but without arms, and was marched away to its duty. - -Near sunset, Hassan Bakari having absented himself without permission, -was lightly punished with a cane by the captain of his company. On being -released, he rushed in a furious temper to his hut, vowing he would -shoot himself. He was caught in the act of preparing his rifle for the -deed. Five men were required to restrain him. Hearing the news, I -proceeded to the scene, and gently asked the reason of this outburst. He -declaimed against the shame which had been put on him, as he was a -freeman of good family and was not accustomed to be struck like a slave. -Remarks appropriate to his wounded feelings were addressed to him, to -which he gratefully responded. His rifle was restored to him with a -smile. He did not use it. - -_March 11th_.--Forty-one natives descended to the Nyanza to-day for more -baggage. These make a total of 928 men sent down for the same purpose up -to date. - -_March 12th_.--"Three O'clock," the hunter, took a caravan to the -Nyanza, consisting of thirty-four Zanzibaris and twenty-five natives. - -_March 13th_.--Lieut. Stairs, R.E., took down to the Lake sixty-three -Zanzibaris and Manyuema. - -The forty-one natives who left on the 11th inst. returned to-day, -bringing with them absolute rubbish--wooden bedsteads, twenty gallon -copper pots, and some more flat rocks, which the Soudanese call -grinding-stones. They complained that when they objected to carry these -heavy, useless weights they were cruelly beaten. - -As I have informed the Pasha several times that I cannot allow such -rubbish to be carried, and as the Pasha has written to that effect to -Osman Latif Effendi, the commander of the Lake shore camp, and his -orders are not obeyed, I shall presently have to stop this cruel work. - -_March 14th_.--Twenty-one of the Balegga have offered their services, -and have been sent down to the Lake to carry baggage. Total loads up to -date, 1,037. - -I consider this carrier work to which I have subjected myself, officers, -and men, as an essential part of my duty to my guests. They may not be -deserving of this sacrifice on our part, but that makes no difference. -What I regret is that such severe labour should be incurred uselessly. -If any one of them were to express a concern that we were put to so much -trouble, most of us would regard it as some compensation. But I have -heard nothing which would lead me to believe that they regard this -assistance as anything more than their due. - -[Illustration: CLIMBING THE PLATEAU-SLOPES.] - -I see the Egyptian officers congregating in special and select groups -each day, seated on their mats, smoking cigarettes, and discussing our -absolute slavishness. They have an idea that any one of them is better -than ten Zanzibaris, but I have not seen any ten of them that could be -so useful in Africa as one Zanzibari. - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -March 14. - -Kavalli's.] - -_March 15th_.--Lieut. Stairs appeared with his caravan to-day. He -reports that there are 100 people still at the Nyanza Camp, with an -immense pile of baggage of the usual useless kind just arrived from Mswa -station. - -[Illustration: SHUKRI AGHA, COMMANDANT OF MSWA STATION.] - -Shukri Agha, commandant of Mswa, has also arrived. At an interview with -him, in the presence of the Pasha, I informed him in plain terms that if -he expected to retire to the coast he would have to set about it -immediately. I told him that I had been amazed at many things since my -arrival the third time at the Lake, but the most wonderful thing of all -was the utter disregard to instructions and orders manifested by -everybody. In May last, ten months ago, they had all been informed of -the cause of our coming. They had promised to be ready, and now he, -Shukri Agha, had come to us to ask us for instructions, just as though -he had never heard anything of the matter. If he, a commandant of a -station, and commander of troops, appeared to be so slow to comprehend, -how ever was it possible to convey it into the sense of the Soudanese -soldier. All I had to say now was, that unless he, Shukri Agha, paid -attention to what I said, he would be left behind to take the -consequences. - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -March 15. - -Kavalli's.] - -"Ah," says Shukri, "I will go back to Mswa, and the very next day I -shall embark the women and children on the steamers, and I shall march -with our cattle through Melindwa overland, and we shall all be here in -seven days." - -"I shall expect you on the tenth day from this, with your families, -soldiers, and cattle." - -The Pasha said to me in the evening, "Shukri Agha has given me his -solemn promise that he will obey the orders I have given him to depart -from Mswa at once." - -"Did you write them firmly, Pasha, in such a manner that there can be no -doubt!" - -"Surely, I did so." - -"Do you think he will obey them?" - -"Most certainly. What, Shukri Agha! He will be here in ten days without -fail, and all his soldiers with him." - -_March 16th_.--Shukri Agha descended to the Nyanza to-day; also 108 -carriers, natives, for baggage. - -_March 17th_.--Twenty-nine natives of Malai's tribe, and sixteen natives -of Bugombi, have been sent to the Nyanza Camp. Total, 1,190 carriers up -to date. - -The Pasha proceeded this morning to the Baregga Hills for a picnic, and -to increase his ornithological and entomological collections. A goat was -taken up also to be slaughtered for the lunch. Lieut. Stairs, Mr. -Jephson, Captain Nelson, Surgeon Parke, and Mr. Bonny have gone up with -quite a following to encourage him to do his best and keep him company. - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -March 17. - -Kavalli's.] - -Yesterday Jephson and I had examined the summits of the hills, and in -one of the hollows we had discovered tree ferns, standing eight feet -high, with stalks eight inches in diameter. We also brought with us a -few purple flowering heliotropes, aloes, and rock ferns for the Pasha. -All this has inspired him with a desire to investigate the flora for -himself. - -These hills have an altitude varying from 5,400 to 5,600 feet above the -sea. The folds and hollows between these hills are here and there -somewhat picturesque, though on account of late grass burnings they are -not at their best just now. Each of the hollows has its own clear water -rillet, and along their courses are bamboos, tree ferns, small palms, -and bush, much of which is in flower. From the lively singing of the -birds I heard yesterday, it was thought likely this insatiable collector -might be able to add to his store of stuffed giant-larks, thrushes, -bee-eaters, sun-birds, large pigeons, &c. Only four specimens were -obtained, and the Pasha is not happy. - -In a bowl-like basin, rimmed around by rugged and bare rocks, I saw a -level terrace a mile and a half long by a mile wide, green as a tennis -lawn. Round about the foot of this terrace ran a clear rivulet, through -a thick bank of woods, the tops of which just came to the level of the -terrace. It has been the nicest site for a mission or a community of -white men that I have seen for a long time. The altitude was 5,500 feet -above the sea. From the crest of the rocky hills encircling it we may -obtain a view covering 3,000 square miles of one of the most gloriously -beautiful lands in the world. Pisgah, sixty miles westward, dominates -all eminences and ridges in the direction of the forest world; -Ruwenzori, 18,000 to 19,000, white with perpetual snow, eighty miles -off, bounds the view south; to the east the eye looks far over the -country of Unyoro; and north-east lies the length of the Albert Nyanza. -On the terrace the picnic was held. - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -March 18. - -Kavalli's.] - -_March 18th_.--The redoubtable Rudimi, chief of Usiri, has at last -joined our confederacy. Besides seven head of cattle, seven goats, and -an ample store of millet flour and sweet potatoes, he brought me -thirty-one carriers. They were immediately sent to the Lake shore camp. - -We can now trust these natives to handle any property unguarded. -Altogether fifteen chiefs have submitted to our stipulation that they -shall cease fighting with one another; that they shall submit all causes -of complaint to us, and agree to our decisions. The result is that the -Wavira shake hands with the Wasiri, the Balegga, and the Wahuma. The -cases are frequently very trivial, but so far our decisions have given -satisfaction. - -The camp now consists of 339 huts and five tents, exclusive of Kavalli's -village, on the southern side of which our town has grown. There are -sometimes as many as 2,000 people in it. - -_March 21st_.--The natives of Melindwa, having made a descent upon -Ruguji's, one of our Wahuma allies, and captured forty head of his -cattle, Lieut. Stairs and Mr. Jephson were despatched with Companies 1 -and 2, and returned with 310 head of cattle. Ruguji recognised his -cattle and received them. The Wahuma are all herdsmen and shepherds. The -Wavira devote themselves to agriculture. - -_March 22nd_.--The Pasha, with Mr. Marco, paid a visit to Mpigwa, chief -of Nyamsassi, and were well received, returning with large gifts of -food. - -_March 23rd_.--Contributions of provisions have come in from many chiefs -to-day as an expression of gratitude for the retaliatory raid on -Melindwa. - -_March 26th_.--Yesterday afternoon the steamer _Nyanza_ came in with the -mails from Wadelai, and carriers came in this morning with them. - -Selim Bey writes from Wadelai to the Pasha that he is sure all the -rebels will follow him, and that they may be expected at our camp. The -Pasha, beaming with joy, came to me and imparted this news, and said, -"What did I tell you? You see I was right? I was sure they would all -come." - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -March 26. - -Kavalli's.] - -Let us see what this good news amounts to. - -Selim Bey left our camp on the 26th February with a promise that I -should wait "a reasonable time." Though the distance is only five days, -we will give him eight days. He arrives at Wadelai on the 4th March. He -promised solemnly to begin embarking as soon as possible. We will grant -him five days for this, considering that such people have no idea of -time, and eight days for the voyage from Wadelai to our Lake camp. He -should then have arrived on the 17th inst. He has not appeared yet, and -in his letters to the Pasha he only states that his intentions are what -they were on the 26th February last, viz., to start. - -On the 14th of March Shukri Agha, commandant of Mswa, appeared to obtain -instructions from the Pasha, and on the 17th Shukri Agha was back again -at Mswa station, having received an order to abandon that station and to -be here on the 27th. We are now told that Shukri Agha is still at Mswa, -and Selim Bey still at Wadelai, and that every order issued by the Pasha -has been disregarded, and every promise broken. - -I replied to the Pasha that I was only aware of our folly in relying on -any promise made by such people, that neither Selim Bey nor probably -Shukri Agha had any intention of accompanying us anywhere. Days had -passed into weeks, and weeks had grown into months, and years would -doubtless elapse before we should leave Africa. - -"I must beg leave, Pasha, to impress on you that, besides my duty to you -and to your people, I have a duty to perform to the Relief Committee. -Every month I stay in Africa costs about L400. I have a duty to perform -to my officers. They have their careers in the army to think of--their -leave of absence has long ago expired. Then we must think of the -Zanzibaris. They will want to return to their homes; they are already -waxing impatient. If we had only some proof that Selim Bey and his men -had any real intention of leaving Africa, and would furnish this proof -by sending a couple of companies of soldiers, and I could see that the -soldiers were under control, there would be no difficulty in staying -some months more. But if you think that from the 1st of May, 1888, to -the end of March, 1889, are eleven months, and that we have been only -able to get about forty officers and clerks and their families, and that -the baggage of these has required all the carriers on this plateau one -month to carry it two days' march, you will perceive that I have no -reason to share in your joy. - -"I pray you also to remember, that I have been at great pains to get at -the correct state of mind which those officers at Wadelai are in. I have -been told most curious things. Major Awash Effendi, of the 2nd -Battalion, Osman Latif Effendi, Mohamed the engineer, have told me -secretly that neither Selim Bey or Fadl-el-Mulla Bey will leave for -Egypt. The former may perhaps come as far as here and settle in this -district. But whatever the Wadelai officers may profess to be desirous -of doing, I have been warned that I must be on my guard. Nobody places -any faith in them except yourself. While believing that you may perhaps -be right after all, you must admit that I have the best of reasons for -doubting their good intentions. They have revolted three times against -you. They captured Mr. Jephson, and in menacing him with rifles they -insulted me. They have made it known widely enough that they intended to -capture me on my return here. But, Pasha, let me tell you this much: it -is not in the power of all the troops of the province to capture me, and -before they arrive within rifle-shot of this camp, every officer will be -in my power." - -"But what answer shall I give them?" asked the Pasha. - -"You had better hear it from the officers yourself. Come, without -saying a word to them. I will call them here and ask them in your -presence, because they are involved in the question as much as I am -myself." - -"Very well," he replied. - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -March 26. - -Kavalli's.] - -A messenger was sent to summon the officers, Stairs, Nelson, Jephson, -and Parke, and when they were seated I addressed them:-- - - "Gentlemen,--Before giving me the benefit of your advice at this - important period, let me sum up some facts as they have transpired. - - "Emin Pasha has received a mail from Wadelai. Selim Bey, who left - the post below here on the 26th February last, with a promise that - he would hurry up such people as wished to go to Egypt, writes from - Wadelai that the steamers are engaged in transporting some people - from Duffle to Wadelai, that the work of transport between Wadelai - and Tunguru will be resumed upon the accomplishment of the other - task. When he went away from here, we were informed that he was - deposed, and that Emin Pasha and he were sentenced to death by the - rebel officers. We now learn that the rebel officers, ten in - number, and all their faction, are desirous of proceeding to Egypt; - we may suppose, therefore, that Selim Bey's party is in the - ascendant again. - - "Shukri Agha, the chief of the Mswa Station--the station nearest to - us--paid us a visit there in the middle of March. He was informed - on the 16th of March, the day that he departed, that our departure - for Zanzibar would positively begin on the 10th of April. He took - with him urgent letters for Selim Bey, announcing that fact in - unmistakable terms. - - "Eight days later we hear that Shukri Agha is still at Mswa, having - only sent a few women and children to the Nyanza Camp; yet he and - his people might have been here by this if they intended to - accompany us. - - "Thirty days ago Selim Bey left us with a promise of a reasonable - time. The Pasha thought once that twenty days would be a reasonable - time. However, we have extended it to forty-four days. Judging by - the length of time Selim Bey has already taken, only reaching - Tunguru with one-sixteenth of the expected force, I personally am - quite prepared to give the Pasha my decision. For you must know, - gentlemen, that the Pasha having heard from Selim Bey 'intelligence - so encouraging,' wishes to know my decision, but I have preferred - to call you to answer for me. - - "You are aware that our instructions were to carry relief to Emin - Pasha, and to escort such as were willing to accompany us to Egypt. - We arrived at the Nyanza, and met Emin Pasha in the latter part of - April, 1888, just twelve months ago. We handed him his letters from - the Khedive and his Government, and also the first instalment of - relief, and asked him whether we were to have the pleasure of his - company to Zanzibar. He replied that his decision depended on that - of his people. - - "This was the first adverse news that we received. Instead of - meeting with a number of people only too anxious to leave Africa, - it was questionable whether there would be any except a few - Egyptian clerks. With Major Barttelot so far distant in the rear, - we could not wait at the Nyanza for his decision, as that might - possibly require months; it would be more profitable to seek and - assist the rear column, and by the time we arrived here again, - those willing to go to Egypt would be probably impatient to start. - We, therefore, leaving Mr. Jephson to convey our message to the - Pasha's troops, returned to the forest region for the rear column, - and in nine months were back again on the Nyanza. But instead of - discovering a camp of people anxious and ready to depart from - Africa, we found no camp at all, but hear that both the Pasha and - Mr. Jephson are prisoners, that the Pasha has been in imminent - danger of his life from the rebels, and at another time is in - danger of being bound on his bedstead and taken to the interior of - Makkaraka country. It has been current talk in the Province that we - were only a party of conspirators and adventurers, that the letters - of the Khedive and Nubar Pasha were forgeries, concocted by the - vile Christians, Stanley and Casati, assisted by Mohammed Emin - Pasha. So elated have the rebels been by their bloodless victory - over the Pasha and Mr. Jephson, that they have confidently boasted - of their purpose to entrap me by cajoling words, and strip our - Expedition of every article belonging to it, and send us adrift - into the wilds to perish. We need not dwell on the ingratitude of - these men, or on their intense ignorance and evil natures, but you - must bear in mind the facts to guide you to a clear decision. - - "We believed when we volunteered for this work that we should be - met with open arms. We were received with indifference, until we - were lead to doubt whether any people wished to depart. My - representative was made a prisoner, menaced with rifles, threats - were freely used. The Pasha was deposed, and for three months was a - close prisoner. I am told this is the third revolt in the Province. - Well, in the face of all this, we have waited nearly twelve months - to obtain the few hundreds of unarmed men, women, and children in - this camp. As I promised Selim Bey and his officers that I would - give a reasonable time, Selim Bey and his officers repeatedly - promised to us there should be no delay. The Pasha has already - fixed April 10th, which extended their time to forty-four days, - sufficient for three round voyages for each steamer. The news - brought to-day is not that Selim Bey is close to here, but that he - has not started from Wadelai yet. - - "In addition to his own friends, who are said to be loyal and - obedient to him, he brings the ten rebel officers, and some six - hundred or seven hundred soldiers, their faction. - - "Remembering the three revolts which these same officers have - inspired, their pronounced intentions against this Expedition, - their plots and counterplots, the life of conspiracy and smiling - treachery they have led, we may well pause to consider what object - principally animates them now--that from being ungovernably - rebellious against all constituted authority, they have suddenly - become obedient and loyal soldiers of the Khedive and his 'Great - Government.' You must be aware that, exclusive of the thirty-one - boxes of ammunition delivered to the Pasha by us in May, 1888, the - rebels possess ammunition of the Provincial Government equal to - twenty of our cases. We are bound to credit them with intelligence - enough to perceive that such a small supply would be fired in an - hour's fighting among so many rifles, and that only a show of - submission and apparent loyalty will ensure a further supply from - us. Though the Pasha brightens up each time he obtains a plausible - letter from these people, strangers like we are may also be - forgiven for not readily trusting those men whom they have such - good cause to mistrust. Could we have some guarantee of good faith, - there could be no objection to delivering to them all they - required: that is, with the permission of the Pasha. Can we be - certain, however, that if we admit them into this camp as good - friends and loyal soldiers of Egypt, they will not rise up some - night and possess themselves of all the ammunition, and so deprive - us of the power of returning to Zanzibar? It would be a very easy - matter for them to do so, after they had acquired the knowledge of - the rules of the camp. With our minds filled with Mr. Jephson's - extraordinary revelations of what has been going on in the Province - since the closing of the Nile route, beholding the Pasha here - before my very eyes, who was lately supposed to have several - thousands of people under him, but now without any important - following, and bearing in mind the 'cajoling' and 'wiles' by which - we were to be entrapped, I ask you, would we be wise in extending - the time of delay beyond the date fixed, that is, the 10th of - April?" - -The officers one after another replied in the negative. - -"There, Pasha," I said, "you have your answer. We march on the 10th of -April." - -The Pasha then asked if we could "in our conscience acquit him of having -abandoned his people," supposing they had not arrived by the 10th of -April. We replied, "Most certainly." - -_March 27th_.--The couriers have left to embark for Wadelai. - -They bore the following: - - Notice to Selim Bey and the Rebel Officers. - -Camp at Kavalli, -_March 26th_, 1889. - - "Salaams,--The Commander of the Relief Expedition having promised - to grant a reasonable time for the arrival of such people at this - camp as were desirous to quit the country, notifies Selim Bey and - his brother officers that this is the 30th day since they departed - from the Nyanza Camp for Wadelai to assemble their people. - - "The 'reasonable time' promised to them has expired to-day. - - "However, as the Pasha has requested an extension of time, it is - hereby notified to all concerned that the Expedition will make a - further halt at this camp of fourteen days from this date, or, in - other words, that the Expedition will positively commence the march - toward Zanzibar on the morning of the TENTH OF APRIL next. All - those people not arriving by that date must abide the consequences - of their absence on the day of our departure. - -"HENRY M. STANLEY." - - - - - Notice to Shukri Agha, Commanding Mswa. - - "The Commander of the Relief Expedition hereby announces to the - good and loyal officer Shukri Agha, that in order to allow him - sufficient time to reach this camp, the Expedition will make a - further halt of fourteen days from this date, at this camp, but - that on the morning of the tenth day of April next, no matter who - or who may not be ready to march on that date, positively no - further delay will be granted. - - "The Commander of the Expedition, out of sincere affection for - Shukri Agha, begs that he will take this last notice into his - earnest consideration, and act accordingly, - -"HENRY M. STANLEY." - - - - - - - -CHAPTER XXVI. - -WE START HOMEWARD FOR ZANZIBAR. - - - False reports of strangers at Mazamboni's--Some of the Pasha's - ivory--Osman Latiff Effendi gives me his opinions on the Wadelai - officers--My boy Sali as spy in the camp--Capt. Casati's views of - Emin's departure from his province--Lieut. Stairs makes the first - move homeward--Weights of my officers at various places--Ruwenzori - visible--The little girl reared by Casati--I act as mediator - between Mohammed Effendi, his wife, and Emin--Bilal and - Serour--Attempts to steal rifles from the Zanzibari's huts--We hear - of disorder and distress at Wadelai and Mswa--Two propositions made - to Emin Pasha--Signal for general muster under arms sounded--Emin's - Arabs are driven to muster by the Zanzibaris--Address to the - Egyptians and Soudanese--Lieut. Stairs brings the Pasha's servants - into the square--Seroor and three others, being the principal - conspirators, placed under guard--Muster of Emin Pasha's - followers--Osman Latif Effendi and his mother--Casati and Emin not - on speaking terms--Preparing for the march--Fight with clubs - between the Nubian, Omar, and the Zanzibaris--My judgments on the - combatants--We leave Kavalli for Zanzibar--The number of our - column--Halt in Mazamboni's territory--I am taken ill with - inflammation of the stomach--Dr. Parke's skilful nursing--I plan in - my mind the homeward march--Frequent reports to me of plots in the - camp--Lieut. Stairs and forty men capture Rehan and twenty-two - deserters who left with our rifles--At a holding of the court it is - agreed to hang Rehan--Illness of Surgeon Parke and Mr. Jephson--A - packet of letters intended for Wadelai falls into my hands, and - from which we learn of an important plot concocted by Emin's - officers--Conversation with Emin Pasha about the same--Shukri Agha - arrives in our camp with two followers--Lieut. Stairs buries some - ammunition--We continue our march and camp at - Bunyambiri--Mazamboni's services and hospitality--Three soldiers - appear with letters from Selim Bey--Their contents--Conversation - with the soldiers--They take a letter to Selim Bey from Emin--Ali - Effendi and his servants accompany the soldiers back to Selim Bey. - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -March 27. - -Kavalli's.] - -_March 27th._--I heard to-day that strangers, supposed to be Zanzibaris, -had arrived at Mazamboni's. I accordingly despatched Jephson with -forty-three rifles to ascertain the truth of this report, for it may be -Jameson, accompanied by Salim bin Mohamed and people. - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -March 29. - -Kavalli's.] - -_March 29th._--Mr. Jephson returned from Undussuma, bringing fifty-six -native carriers. There were no strangers. It was a false report. Alas! -for Jameson. We all wonder what course he adopted upon receiving my -letters. - -_March 31st._--Captain Nelson arrived in camp from Lake shore, bringing -132 loads. These bring up the total of loads carried from the Lake shore -to this camp to 1355. I am told there is nothing left except some large -ivories, weighing about 150 pounds each, which we cannot carry. The -Pasha brought with him sixty-five tusks, forty-five of which I proposed -paying to the Manyuema for their services, but they have declined taking -it, as they would prefer the monthly pay paid in goods to them on -arriving at the C. M. S. Mission at Msalala. - -Osman Latif Effendi, the Lieut.-Governor of the Equatorial Province, -came to me this afternoon, and gave me his opinions on the Wadelai -officers. He says: "Selim Bey may join us. He is not a bad man. He is -fond of beer and indolent. If he comes, he will have about 350 soldiers -and officers with him, who form his party. Fadl-el-Mulla Bey is chief of -the opposite party. Since they received news that Khartoum had fallen -they have cast off all allegiance to the Pasha. That was just before Dr. -Junker left. Believing that perhaps they would change their minds upon -hearing of you, Emin Pasha proceeded to see them with Mr. Jephson, and -both were immediately arrested. Fadl-el-Mulla Bey and his clerk are -Mahdists. They hoped to get great honour from the Khalifa for delivering -the Pasha up to them. They have had an idea of getting you to visit -them, and by sweet words and promising everything, to catch you and send -you to Khartoum. If Fadl-el-Mulla Bey comes here with his party, all I -can say is that you must be very careful. I am tired of the land and -wish to go to Cairo. I want nothing to do with them." - -"What do you think of the people here, Osman Latif?" - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -March 31. - -Kavalli's.] - -"Awash Effendi would not dare to be left behind. As the Major of the 2nd -Battalion he was said to be very severe. They hate him, and would kill -him; almost all the others, if Selim Bey came here, and advised them to -stop, would prefer living here to going with the Pasha. I and Awash -Effendi will follow you. If we died on the road that is the end of it. -We should be sure to die here if we stayed." - -"Why do they dislike the Pasha?" - -"I do not know, except that Shaitan (the Devil) instigates them. He has -been very just, and good to them all, but the more he allows them to do -as they please the further their hearts are from him. They say, 'Oh, let -him go on collecting beetles and birds. We don't want him.' The Pasha is -very happy when he travels, and is able to collect things, and does not -trouble himself about the men." - -"Do you think they would have liked him better if he had hanged a few?" - -"Perhaps. God knows." - -"Do you think you would have liked him better if he had been severe to -you?" - -"No, but I should have been more afraid of him." - -"Ah! Yes, of course." - -"But please don't tell the Pasha I said anything, otherwise he would not -forgive me." - -"Have no fear. If you hear what is going on in the camp let me know." - -"Myself and my son are at your service. We shall hear all that goes on, -and will let you know." - -I saw Osman Latif proceed soon after to the Pasha's quarters, and kiss -his hands, and bend reverently before him, and immediately I followed, -curious to observe. The Pasha sat gravely on his chair, and delivered -his orders to Osman Latif with the air of power, and Osman Latif bowed -obsequiously after hearing each order, and an innocent stranger might -have imagined that one embodied kingly authority and the other slavish -obedience. Soon after I departed absorbed in my own thoughts. - -[Illustration: SALI, HEAD BOY.] - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -March 31. - -Kavalli's.] - -Sali, my boy, is the cleverest spy in the camp. How he obtains his -information I do not know. But he appears to know a great deal more than -Osman Latif or Awash Effendi, or any of the young Egyptians. He is in -the counsels of the captains. He is intimate with Mohammed, the -engineer. He is apparently adored by Capt. Ibrahim Effendi Elham, and -his father-in-law, Ali Effendi. Of course he has many subordinate -informers to assist. The Zanzibaris are inveterate traders: they always -possess something to bargain with. During the preliminaries they shuffle -the affairs of the camp, and as they are detailed the traders piece this -and that together and pass it over when well digested to Sali, after -which I receive the benefit of it. Much naturally is pure gossip, but on -the whole it amounts to a sum of solid and valuable information. - -I discover that there is a plot to break away completely from the -Pasha's authority. The number of those actually faithful to-day in camp -is nine. I am told that they know the Pasha is so unsuspecting that they -have but to kiss his hand, and plead forgiveness, and he becomes pliant -to any schemer. - -When a man becomes the jest of such rogues authority is weak indeed. - -Dr. Vita Hassan and Mohammed the engineer say that the Pasha pays great -respect to Captain Casati's opinion. I consider it is a very natural -thing that he should respect the opinion of the only European who has -been with him between Dr. Junker's departure and our arrival. When -Casati is inclined to presume upon kindness, Mr. Jephson reports that -the Pasha knows exactly when to assume the governor. - -The Pasha appeared this morning at my tent and informed me that Captain -Casati was not well pleased with his departure from the Equatorial -Province; that he thought it was his duty to stay. - -"Where, Pasha?" - -"With my people." - -"What people, please?" - -"Why, with my soldiers." - -"Well now, really, I was under the impression that you wrote me some -time ago, with your own hand, besides endorsing Mr. Jephson's letter, -that you were a prisoner to your own soldiers, that they had deposed -you, that they had threatened to take you in irons, strapped on your -bedstead, to Khartoum, and I am sure you know as well as I do what that -means." - -"That is true. But you must not think that I am about to change my mind. -As I said to you, I leave with you on the 10th of April next. That is -settled. I wish, however, you would see Casati about this and talk to -him." - -"I should be most happy to do so, but my French is wretched, and his is -still worse." - -"Oh, if you will send a boy to call me I will come in and be your -interpreter." - -What we have gleaned of Casati's character is generally regarded as a -reflection of the Pasha himself. He has not been averse to declaring -that he would prefer Africa to Europe. There is some reason in the Pasha -seeking an excuse to remain here, but I can find none for Casati, though -he has a right to express his preference. But what good purpose can -influence either to stay here now I fail to see. When the Pasha -possessed force he declined the salary of L1500 a year and L12,000 -annual subsidy for the government of his Province: he deferred accepting -a somewhat similar post under British auspices until it was too late. -The proposal to return home was so displeasing to him that he elected to -leave it unanswered until he could learn the wishes of his troops, in -the attempt to ascertain which he was deposed, and imprisoned, and is -now--let us speak the truth--a fugitive from their power. - -But when these two men get together for a social chat, the result is -that the Pasha feels depressed, and vexes himself unnecessarily with -fears that he may be charged by his rebellious troops with deserting -them. Casati feels elated somewhat at having caused these doubts. What -Casati's object is, more than to secure a companion in misery, is to me -unknown. - -I proceeded to Captain Casati's quarters, and presently, after an -ineffectual effort to be intelligible to him, sent a boy to request the -Pasha's good offices. At once Casati commenced to lecture the Pasha in -the name of honour and duty, and to persuade him that he was -_moralement_ wrong in abandoning his troops, referring of course to the -Pasha's declared intention of leaving with us on the 10th of April. - -"But the Pasha, Captain Casati," I said, "never had an intention of -abandoning his troops, as no person knows better than you. It is these -troops who have deposed him, and made him a prisoner from August 18th to -February 8th, or thereabouts, nearly six months. They have three times -revolted, they have said repeatedly they do not want him, nor will obey -him, and they have threatened to kill him. They would probably have sent -him to Khartoum before this, had not the mad Danaglas shown what little -mercy would have been shown to them." - -"The governor of a fort should never surrender his charge," replied -Casati. - -"I quite agree with you in that, if his troops remain faithful to him; -but if his troops arrest him, haul down the flag, and open the gates, -what can the poor governor do?" - -"A captain of a warship should fight his guns to the last." - -"Quite so, but if the crew seize the captain, and put him into the hold -in irons, and haul down the flag, what then?" - -"No, I do not agree with you," said the Captain, with emphasis. "The -Pasha should remain with his people." - -"But where are his people? The rebels refuse to have anything to do with -him except as a prisoner to them. Do you mean to say that the Pasha -should return as a prisoner, and be content with that humiliating -position?" - -"No, certainly not." - -"Perhaps you think that they would relent, and elevate him again to the -post of Governor?" - -"I cannot say." - -"Do you think they would?" - -"It may be." - -"Would you advise the Pasha to trust himself into the power of -Fadl-el-Mulla Bey and his officers again?" - -"No." - -"Now, here are your servants. Supposing they lay hold of you one night, -and were going to kill you, and you were only saved because your cries -attracted your deliverers to the scene. Would you trust your life in -their hands again?" - -"No." - -"Supposing your servants came to you this afternoon and told you they -would not obey you in the future, and if you insisted on their obedience -would shoot you, would you consider yourself as morally bound to command -them?" - -"No." - -"Then, my dear Casati, you have answered the Pasha, and what you would -not do, the Pasha is not bound to do. Emin Pasha had two duties to -perform, one to the Khedive and one to his soldiers. It is because he -performed his duty nobly and patiently towards the Khedive that I and my -young friends volunteered to help him. The Khedive commands him to -abandon the Province, and forwards assistance to him for that purpose. -He appeals to his troops and requests them to express their views, -whereupon they seize him, menace him with death, and finally imprison -him for six months. His answer is given him, which is, 'For the last -time, we have nothing to do with you.'" - -Casati was not convinced, and I see that the Pasha is much troubled in -mind. They will meet again to-night, and argue the moral aspect of the -case again. God knows what their intentions will be to-morrow. Neither -of them realise the true state of affairs. I am convinced that their -minds are in a bewildered state, as their position would be desperate if -we left them to themselves for a few days. - -Before retiring for the night the Pasha came to my tent and assured me -that he would leave on the 10th of April; that he is certain all the -Egyptians in this camp, numbering with their followers about 600, will -leave with him. But reports from other quarters prove to me that the -Pasha is grossly mistaken. How they will undeceive him I do not know. So -far I have not exchanged many words with any of the party, and I have -certainly not pretended to have any authority over them. I consider the -Pasha as my guest, and the Egyptians as his followers. I supply the -whole party with meat and grain, and Surgeon Parke attends to the sick -each morning and afternoon. - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -April 1. - -Kavalli's.] - -_April 1st_.--The first move homeward has been made to-day. Lieut. -Stairs has been despatched with his company, sixty-one effective rifles, -to form advance camp at Mazamboni's to store contributions, &c., ready -for the huge column that will leave here on the 10th instant. - -Accompanying him were Major Awash Effendi, Rushti Effendi, and two or -three other Egyptians and their followers, also fifty-seven of -Mazamboni's, twenty-nine of Usiri's, and thirty of Mpinga's natives. -Besides loads of No. 2 Company, these carriers took eighty-eight loads -of ammunition, Remington, Winchester, and gunpowder. - -Here is a curious table for medical men: - - WEIGHTS OF OFFICERS AT - - Banana Fort Bodo in Kavalli's After - Point, the Forest, Camp, sickness, - 1887. 1888. 1889. 1889.[10] - Stanley 168 lbs. 135 lbs. 145 lbs. 132 lbs. - Jephson 168 " 132 " 150-1/2 " 132 " - Dr. Parke 162 " 148 " 170 " - Major Barttelot 144 " -- -- - Lt. Stairs 164 " 143 " -- - Capt. Nelson 176 " 140 " 146 " - Emin Pasha -- -- 130 " - -_April 2nd_.--Ruwenzori has been visible the last three days. That -snow-covered range has been a most attractive and beautiful sight--pure, -dazzling, varying in colours with the hours, with infinite depth of -opaline blue all round it, until the sun set and dark night covered the -earth. The natives declared it could not be seen because the south hill -of the Baregga obstructed the view, but by our levels and triangulations -we knew it ought to be seen; and it has been seen. We pointed it out to -the natives. They turned and asked, "How did you know it could be seen -from here?" - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -April 3. - -Kavalli's.] - -_April 3rd_.--The Pasha is slowly opening his eyes. He came to me this -afternoon and related that he had assembled his household of fifty-one -souls--servants, guards, orderlies, who have hitherto been attached to -him--and had asked them who were willing to accompany him on the 10th of -April. All but four declined. The rest say they will wait for their -"brethren." - -One of these four faithfuls is one who bluntly stated that he only -followed to seize a little girl whom Captain Casati was detaining by -force from him, and that after getting possession of her he would return -to Kavalli to await his "brethren." - -Upon asking the Pasha what claims Casati had upon the girl--who is -intensely black and about five years old--he said that Casati a few -years ago had applied to him for a female cook. She had accompanied him -to Unyoro while he had represented him in that country. During her -service with Casati the female cook gave birth to this child, who was -the offspring of a Soudanese soldier. For three years the child was -reared by Casati in his house. She became a pet, and with her artless -prattle and childish ways she relieved the solitary man's tedious life. -On his expulsion from Unyoro by Rabba Rega and return to the province, -the woman was claimed by her husband, and likewise the child, but at the -same time he disclaimed paternity. Casati refused to deliver the child -up, and has obstinately refused to do so to this day. - -The Pasha thinks it possible that the soldier has some sinister -intentions respecting Casati, and deplores Casati's morbid attachment to -his servants, male and female. He is disinclined to exercise his -authority on Casati, who has been his guest and true friend for many -years, but he regrets that his friend will not be advised by him. This -conversation occurred between 5.30 to 6.30 P.M. - -One hour later, while taking a short stroll before my tent in the -moonlight, I heard a fierce brawling voice uttering in Arabic guttural -imprecations. Amid the loud, strenuous, and voluble abuse, I -distinguished my name and the Pasha's frequently, with determined -splutterings of "Enough--enough--enough!" I heard other voices coaxingly -crying, "For the Prophet's sake." "Have a little patience." "Ease your -wrath," and such like, and presently the Pasha's voice rang out deep and -strong "What is the matter there? Peace, I charge you; peace, -then,--Well, go and tell Mr. Stanley; his tent is not far off. Go!" - -Presently, one Mohammed Effendi, the engineer, a light skinned and not -unprepossessing Egyptian, thus challenged, rushed up to me, followed by -a large crowd, and poured--that is the term--a story strongly coloured -by jealousy and bitter with angry denunciations. His wife, he said, to -whom he had been lawfully married at Khartoum, had been allowed by him, -on the death of the Abyssinian mother of Ferida, to become nurse to the -child. This was thirty months ago. At first his wife could find time not -only to perform duty by the child, but also to him, but during the last -six months she had become estranged from him, and abused him violently -upon every occasion they met. During the last twenty-four hours he had -sent over a score of messages to her, each of which she had rejected -with increasing scorn. Was this right? Was there no justice for him? - -"Really, my friend Mohammed," I replied, "I have no authority to settle -such delicate questions. Have you been to the Pasha? Have you asked him -to try and exercise his authority? Seeing that she is a nurse in his -household, he is the person you should apply to; not me." - -"Go to him! Why should I go to him? Nay, then, if you will not do me -justice, I will either kill myself, or my wife, or the Pasha. I will do -one thing sure." - -He departed, storming loudly, so that the entire camp heard his threats. - -I had scarcely ceased wondering what all this meant, when a white-robed -figure stole up rapidly towards my tent, evidently a female by her -dress. - -"Who is this?" I asked. - -"The wife of Mohammed Effendi." - -"In the name of God why do you choose to come here?" - -"You must listen to my story, having heard that of Mohammed," she -answered. - -"Have you the Pasha's permission to visit me?" - -The permission being granted, the woman was shown into my tent by Mr. -Jephson and Dr. Parke. - -"Well, speak; my ears are opened." - -The fair one crouched down, and made a mass of white in the darkest -corner of the tent, lit as it was by a single candle. A subtle fragrance -of Shiraz, or Stamboul oil filled the tent, and a perfectly pure and -delightful voice uttered such clear-cut Arabic that I imagined I -understood every word. A fortnight's experience with such a voice would -make me an Arabic scholar. - -The fair one's story was to the effect that she disliked her husband -most heartily--yea, hated him altogether. He was simply a heathen brute. -He was too low to be worthy of her regard. He had robbed, torn her -clothes, beaten her, had half split her head one time. No; she would -never, never--no, never, &c., &c., have anything to do with him in -future. - -"Have you finished your story?" - -"Yes." - -"Serur! Take her back to the Pasha's house." - -A few seconds elapsed, and the Pasha advanced to the tent and craved an -interview. He related that the woman with the husband's consent had -become nurse to his little daughter, for which she received a liberal -wage in cloth, which was no sooner paid to her than her husband snatched -it away, and shamefully beat her. At her entreaties she obtained the -Pasha's protection even against the husband. He had heard no objections -made, and knew nothing of this fury of jealousy until this evening when -he heard the wrathy voice of Mohammed denouncing him, and threatening to -shoot him. Thereupon he was obliged to ask for my protection, as the -fellow might in a fit of madness kill somebody. - -"Do you leave this affair in my hands, Pasha?" - -"Certainly." - -"Very well. I will ask you to retire to your quarters, guards will be -placed at every entrance leading to them, and I will guarantee the -safety of all within. I will call Mohammed and hear his story patiently, -and will let you know what arrangements have been made before you -sleep." - -The Pasha retired and Mohammed was called. - -His story was that having given his wife permission to be nurse to -little Ferida, he had no intention of depriving the little girl of her -services; he simply wished that his wife should visit him occasionally -and prove herself amenable to marital duty. - -"If you will conform to a few simple conditions, I will do my best to -bring your wife to her senses, but it is necessary you should meet me at -the Pasha's house to-morrow morning and apologise to him for your -shocking violence to-night. Now, don't interrupt me," I said; "you have -been urged to this rude behaviour by your friends, Dr. Vita Hassan, -Bassili Effendi, and others to make a scene. Go to your house quietly, -and beware you utter no more words to-night. To-morrow morning we shall -meet again." - -This evening a mail has arrived from Wadelai, and the letters announce -the utmost disorder and the most extraordinary confusion at that -station. - -_April 4th_.--At 8 A.M. I proceeded to the Pasha's house and informed -him that I desired to call Mohammed to his presence. He consented, and -the man made a most submissive apology, though his angry features belied -his professions of penitence. He was then told to state to the Pasha -before me upon what conditions he was willing to let the woman continue -as nurse. He said he wished his wife to attend on Ferida until she was -put to sleep, from the first hour of the morning, that was all, to which -the Pasha expressed himself agreeable. - -"On the following conditions only, Mohammed, do I agree:-- - -"1st. Your wife shall attend on Ferida during the daytime. - -"2nd. Your wife shall return to your house after sunset. - -"3rd. Your wife is not to be beaten or bruised. - -"4th. Your wife's personal property shall remain with the Pasha. - -"5th. You shall assist, protect, and watch over your wife while on the -march, and allow her on reaching camp to serve Ferida. - -"6th. You shall not trouble your wife and distract her with your demands -during the day--except in case of your illness. - -"7th. The Pasha, in consideration of your wife's service, shall feed and -clothe her, and see that she is carried on the march." - -Both the Pasha and Mohammed agreed. - -The woman was then called, and the Pasha translated word for word the -above conditions. As she heard them she swept the white muslin from her -face, and in the absence of any superior attraction she appeared to me -to possess considerable beauty, with splendid large black eyes--a -distinctively fine Cairene face. The hut was filled with perfume from -her spotless white muslin robe. Under this overdress, she wore a scarlet -dress. In the wilds of Africa I never met anything approaching her. - -After the conditions had been translated, she interjected a vigorous -"Never, never, no, never!" coupled with a free abuse of Mohammed, who -stood looking ridiculously angry and jealous. He appealed to me to -listen to her. - -"Take her to you, Mohammed." - -The man gave the order to her to proceed to his house, which order she -contemptuously disregarded. - -"She must go to your house now," I said. - -Again Mohammed extended his hand towards her, which she angrily pushed -aside. "Never, never, no, never!" she cried fiercely, with flashes of -anger from her beautiful gazelle eyes. - -"Please to command her departure, Pasha." - -The Pasha delivered the order in his usual deep voice. She remained -immovable. - -"You see she refuses to go," said the Pasha. "What can be done?" - -"My dear Pasha, we were prepared for a scene. This is exactly what we -both knew would happen. Despite her obstinacy, she must--she absolutely -must depart with her husband, and we must forbear, whatever happens, -unless the man strikes her. Please to command once more, Pasha, that she -accompany her own proper husband, or she shall be carried bodily to her -home." - -The Pasha did so, and after a second's hesitation, during which it was -clear that she was measuring the strength of two wills, she walked out, -taking the sweet fragrance and loveliness of her presence with her. - -"After her, Mohammed! but if you strike her with even a feather, she -shall become as a stranger to you until you reach Cairo. Let her scold -on, man, even until she faints with weariness. Does a man like you fear -wind? Be considerate with her for three or four days. She will come -round, never fear." - -Ten minutes later Mohammed again made his appearance, and anxiously -cried out that she was possessed of a devil and unmanageable, tearing -her robes, and pulling at her face as though she would destroy its -beauty for ever, &c., &c. - -"Quite so, quite so, Mohammed; just what we expected she would do. Go -tie her up by the wrists, her hands behind her back, Mohammed. Do it -with a smile of confidence, and with soothing words, Mohammed. I know no -law to prevent you, Mohammed. She is your own lawful wife, Mohammed. But -beware of striking her, for if you do it you are a beast!" - -The man went, and, in a matter-of-fact way, tied up the shrewish beauty. -Then she shrieked and wailed for half an hour, and the neighbours' wives -came in to comfort her, and begged her to be submissive to her lord, and -promised her that her husband would become at once tender and kind if -she but showed due obedience. "It is the excess of his love for you," -they said, "that makes him so fierce and angry. If you were only wise, -he would become the most docile slave." Wise wives! - -But their combined advice, and the cunning suggestions thrown in, had -not so much influence in subduing that raging temper, in my opinion, as -her bonds, which made the proud woman appear absurdly helpless before -the sneering husband. - -At 3 P.M. she sent a pitiful message to me that I would cause her -release, but she was sternly told that her voice had no power, nor her -beauty any charms for me; that she must appeal to her husband. -Accordingly she turned to Mohammed, and meekly implored her lord to go -and plead for her, that her bonds pained her, and that she would in -future obey him devotedly. - -Then Mohammed came, with his face radiant with triumphant emotions, and -relieved of those jealous wrinkles which had so disfigured it, and -interceded for her release. This was granted, with an advice not to let -his fondness become folly; to be commanding in tone, and austerely -distant for a few days, otherwise she would regain her lost advantages. - -She was permitted to resume her duties in the Pasha's household. At -night she meekly returned to her husband's house of her own accord. Let -us hope that peace will spread her wings over the disturbed family for -the future. Amen! - -_April 5th_.--This morning Serour, a boy of Monbuttu land, belonging to -the Pasha's household, informed me that only two of the Pasha's servants -intended to follow him out of this camp. He stated that after the Pasha -had questioned his servants, the day before yesterday, they had gone -apart and consulted among themselves, and that they had finally resolved -to let him depart without them--orderlies, guards, clerks, and servants, -all except Bilal and he, Serour. - -"But are you sure that you will go with him?" - -"I don't know. If all my friends remain behind, what shall I do alone?" - -"Well, then, only Bilal is certain of going?" - -"Yes." - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -April 5. - -Kavalli's.] - -At 10.30, after the usual morning muster, Sali reported to me that the -Zanzibaris were talking of several attempts having been made, in various -parts of the camp, to steal rifles from their huts, but that on each -occasion the attempt was thwarted by the prompt wakefulness of the -people. I was glad to hear that at last the Zanzibaris had learned the -importance of securing their rifles close by them at night. There is a -general feeling in the camp that something is about to happen. The -whispering circles observed each day, the care they take that no -outsiders approach too near them, the discovery that the Pasha's -servants had actually informed the Pasha plainly that they would not -accompany him, the huge packets of letters that were despatched by the -Egyptians to the ever-dilatory Egyptians at Wadelai, the heavy mails -that came from Wadelai in return, the insidious warnings of others not -to trust in the Egyptians, coupled with the former theft of a rifle by -the returning officers, and these bold attempts to steal a few more -rifles, all conspired to prove conclusively that between this date and -the 10th of April some daring scheme is about to be tried. - -Up to this date I have regarded the Pasha and the people as our guests, -to be treated with all politeness and consideration, and myself as host -and guide merely, except when any matter was thrust and put into my -management. For the Pasha personally all of us entertained great respect -and sympathy. Not a day has passed without an exhibition of this feeling -from myself and officers, but we have been none the less aware that the -Pasha's method fails utterly to constrain obedience. There has not been -a single order of any importance obeyed, nor any request regarded. As -often as we have observed this we have chafed and regretted that each -time we have been emboldened to speak to him he has believed himself -infallible in his judgment, from his thirteen years' experience of them. -But now that the Egyptians had begun, from our quiet inoffensive manner, -to conceive that the whites were similar to their Pasha, and proposed to -accomplish some project involving our rights and liberties, the time was -come to act. - -I proceeded to the Pasha's house. - -The Pasha, who was putting the final touches to some birds just stuffed -by his secretary, pulled himself up with his usual dignity, and gravely -prepared himself to listen. - -"Emin Pasha," I said, "last evening couriers arrived from Wadelai and -Mswa. They brought a large packet of letters from Selim Bey, Egyptian -clerks, and others, and each letter which you received described -disorder and distress. There are now half a dozen factions there, each -arrayed against the other. One Coptic clerk wrote you that no one seemed -to know what he was about, that the soldiers broke into the Government -magazines and took out whatever pleased them, that the officers were -unable to restrain them, and that Wadelai was like a settlement -consisting wholly of madmen; that Selim Bey had not begun to embark his -own family yet, that he had but few followers, and that these were -altogether unruly. - -"Your people here also received many letters from their brethren, and, -as though in accordance with this fact, there was an attempt made last -night to appropriate our arms. Three separate times they entered the -Zanzibari huts and tried to abstract the rifles; but, acting after my -instructions, the Zanzibaris tied their rifles to their waists, and when -they were pulled, they were wakened, and the intending thieves decamped. -While you have been engaged with your collections and studies, I have -been observing. - -"They have yet five nights before our departure on the 10th inst. The -attempt to rob us of our arms of defence failed last night. They will -try again, and perhaps succeed, for I credit them with being clever -enough, and it is quite clear that they have a design of some kind. Of -course, if they succeed in appropriating even one rifle, the punishment -will be summary, for I shall then forget what is due to them as your -people and my guests. But this is what I wish to avoid. I should be loth -to shed their blood, and create scenes of violence, when a better way -of safeguarding our arms and ammunition, and effecting a quiet and -peaceable departure from here, can be found. - -"I propose to you one of two things. Sound the signal to muster all the -Arabs and Soudanese with you, and then find out gently who is willing to -leave with you. Those who are not willing, I shall order to leave the -camp. If they do not obey, then it will be for me to employ compulsion. -But as these people despise our Zanzibaris, they may very probably -attempt resistance. Well, in a land where there is no appeal but to our -fire-arms, it will certainly end violently, and we shall both regret it -afterwards. - -"The other proposal is much more effective and more bloodless. Do you -order your baggage to be packed up quietly, and at dawn my people shall -all be ready to escort you to a camp about three miles from here. From -that camp we shall issue a request that those who intend following you -shall come in and be welcome, but no other person shall approach without -permission on pain of death." - -"Hum! May I inform Casati of this?" demanded the Pasha. - -"No, sir. Casati is in no danger; they will not hurt him, because he is -not their governor or officer. He is only a traveller. He can come the -next day, or whenever he is inclined. If he is detained, I will attack -the rebel camp and rescue Casati quickly enough." - -The Pasha, while I spoke, shook his head in that melancholy, resigned -manner peculiar to him, which has always seemed to me to betray pitiable -irresolution. - -"You do not like either plan, Pasha, I see. Will you, then, suggest some -plan by which I can avoid coming into conflict with these wretched, -misguided people, for as certain as daylight, it is impending? In my -camp indiscipline and unruliness shall not prevail." - -The Pasha, after a while, replied, "Your plan is not bad, but there is -not sufficient time." - -"Why, Pasha, you have told me you have been packing up for the last -fifteen days. Do you mean to say that between now and to-morrow morning -you cannot finish packing your baggage? In thirty minutes our Expedition -can start. If you cannot be awakened to the danger of bloodshed, and you -will not accept my plan, nor suggest anything that will relieve us of -the necessity of destroying one another, I must at once take measures -for the general safety; and should a drop of blood be spilled, it must -be upon your head that the guilt of it will lie. Adieu." - -I rose and sounded the signal for general muster under arms. Myself and -officers armed, and the Zanzibaris, Manyuema, Soudanese, and natives, -seeing us assume our weapons, knew that the case was urgent, and -hastened to the square with wonderful celerity. The natives of Kavalli -passed the alarm, and some hundreds came rushing up to take their share -in what they believed was a coming struggle. - -Within five minutes the companies were under arms, and stood attentive -along three sides of the great square. The Pasha, seeing that I was in -earnest, came out, and begged me to listen to one word. - -"Certainly; what is it?" I asked. - -"Only tell me what I have to do now." - -"It is too late, Pasha, to adopt the pacific course I suggested to you. -The alarm is general now, and therefore I propose to discover for myself -this danger, and face it here. Sound the signal, please, for muster of -your Arabs before me." - -"Very good," replied the Pasha, and gave the order to his trumpeter. - -We waited ten minutes in silence. Then, perceiving that not much -attention was paid to the signal, I requested Mr. Jephson to take No. 1 -company, arm the men with clubs and sticks, and drive every Arab, -Egyptian, and Soudanese into the square, without regard to rank, to -search every house, and drag out every male found within. - -The Zanzibaris were deployed across the camp, and, advancing on the -run, began to shower blows upon every laggard and dawdler they came -across, until the most sceptical was constrained to admit that, when -commanded, the Zanzibaris were fit for something better than working as -a hamal for a lazy Egyptian and his slave. - -For the first time the Egyptians and Soudanese formed a decent line. Not -until they had formed it with military exactitude and precision was a -word said to them. It was most amusing to see an ordinary Zanzibari -carrier straighten with his staff--which he flourished with a grim -face--the line of majors, Vakeels, captains, lieutenants, clerks, and -storekeepers. - -When the line was satisfactory, I stepped up to them and informed them -that I heard they wished to fight, that they were eager to try what kind -of men the Zanzibaris were. They had seen how well they could work; it -would be a pity if they were not able to see how well they could fight. - -The Vakeel--Lieutenant-Governor--replied, "But we don't wish to fight." - -"Then what is this I hear, that one of you is as good as ten of my men, -of rifles being stolen, of plots and counterplots each day that you have -been here, of your resolve not to follow the Pasha after making us build -your houses and collect food for you, and carrying hundreds of loads the -last two months up this mountain from the lake, and last night three of -our houses were entered, and you laid your hands upon our arms. Speak, -and say what it all means." - -"Ah, Pasha, no one of us wishes to fight, and let the thieves, if found, -die." - -"If found! Will any thief confess his theft and deliver himself to be -shot. Will you, who are all of one mind, betray one another, and submit -yourselves to punishment? Do you intend to follow your Pasha?" - -"We all do," they answered. - -"Stay. Those who intend following the Pasha form rank on that other -side, like soldiers, each in his place." - -At once there was a general and quick movement in regular order; they -then turned about and faced me again. - -"So! Is there none desirous of staying in this fair land with Selim Bey, -where you will be able to make these natives do your work for you, cook, -and feed you?" - -"None, not one. La il Allah il Allah!" - -"Why, Pasha, you have been misinformed, surely? These people vow they -are all faithful. There is not a traitor here." - -"I do not see my servants and orderlies here," replied the Pasha. - -"Ah, Lieutenant Stairs, please take a party and roust every man out. On -the least resistance you know what to do." - -"Right, sir." - -Lieutenant Stairs took his company, gave his orders, and in a few -minutes the Pasha's servants were brought into the square; they were -deprived of their rifles and accoutrements. - -"Now, Pasha, please ask them severally before me what they intend -doing." - -Upon the Pasha asking them, they all replied they were willing to follow -their master to the end of the world, excepting one, Seroor. - -The Pasha, pointing out Seroor, said, "That is the chief conspirator in -my household." - -"Oh, it will only take one cartridge to settle his business." - -"But I hope, for God's sake, that you will try him first, and not take -my word for it." - -"Undoubtedly, my dear Pasha. We invariably give such people a fair -trial." - -Seroor was placed under guard with three others whom the Pasha pointed -out. - -"Now, Pasha, this business having been satisfactorily ended, will you be -good enough to tell these officers that the tricks of Wadelai must -absolutely cease here, and that in future they are under my command. If -I discover any treacherous tricks I shall be compelled to exterminate -them utterly. No Mahdist, Arabist, or rebel can breathe in my camp. -Those who behave themselves and are obedient to orders will suffer no -harm from their fellows or from us. My duty is to lead them to Egypt, -and until they arrive in Cairo I will not leave them. Whatever I can do -to make them comfortable I will do, but for sedition, and theft of arms, -there is only death." - - MUSTER OF EMIN PASHA'S FOLLOWERS, APRIL 5th, 1889. - - ------------------------------------+------+------+---------+-----+------+--------+-------- - NAME. | | | | | | |Total of - |Loads.|Wives.|Children.|Men. |Women.|Infants.|People. - ------------------------------------+------+------+---------+-----+------+--------+-------- - Emin Pasha, Governor | 51 | | 1 | 16 | 15 | 9 | 42 - Captain Casati, traveller | 10 | | | 3 | 8 | 1 | 13 - Signor Marco, merchant | 13 | 5 | 4 | 5 | 5 | 3 | 23 - Vita Hassan, apothecary | 11 | | 2 | 7 | 7 | 2 | 19 - Osman Effendi Latif, Vakeel }| | | | | | | - His mother }| | | | | | | - " Abdul Rahman, his son, 17 years}| | | | | | | - " Achmed " 10 " }| 11 | 2 | 4 | 3 | 5 | 1 | 17 - " Rejab " 5 " }| | | | | | | - " Sadi-eddeen " 4 " }| | | | | | | - Ayoub Effendi (absent), clerk | 4 | | | 1 | | | 1 - Achmet Effendi Ibrahim, captain | 9 | 3 | | 3 | 5 | 2 | 14 - Abdul Wahid Effendi, captain | 8 | 1 | | 4 | 3 | 1 | 10 - Ibrahim Effendi | | | | | | | 1 - Assinaka, clerk | 7 | | | 3 | 7 | | 11 - Ali Agha Shamruk, captain | 6 | 1 | | 2 | 1 | | 5 - Rushdi Effendi, clerk | 5 | 2 | 1 | 3 | 4 | | 11 - Ibrahim Effendi Telbass, lieutenant | 9 | 2 | | | 4 | | 7 - Abu Zehr Achmed | 5 | | | | 2 | 1 | 4 - Ali Effendi, captain }| | | | | | | - Mohammed, his son, 14 years }| | | | | | | - Ibrahim " 11 " }| 20 | 1 | 3 | 9 | 9 | | 23 - Abdul Hamed " 6 " }| | | | | | | - Mohammed Mutlook, soldier | 3 | | | | 1 | | 2 - Awash Effendi, major | 17 | | | 4 | 9 | 1 | 15 - Hamdam, soldier | 2 | | 1 | | | | 2 - Mohammed el Arabi, soldier | 4 | | | | 3 | | 4 - Sulieman Effendi, 1st lieutenant | 12 | | 3 | 5 | 5 | 2 | 16 - Faratch Ago, lieutenant | 20 | 4 | 5 | 5 | 12 | | 27 - Mohammed Sulieman, soldier | 3 | 1 | | | | | 2 - Bakheet, soldier | 2 | 1 | 1 | | | | 3 - Azra Effendi, clerk }| | | | | | | - His mother }| 8 | 3 | 2 | 2 | 4 | | 13 - Rafael Effendi, clerk | 5 | 2 | 1 | | 1 | | 5 - Wasuf Effendi, clerk | 6 | 2 | | 1 | 2 | 2 | 8 - Michael Effendi (deceased) }| | | | | | | - His children-- }| | | | | | | - Awab boy, 6 years }| | | | | | | - Bushara " 4 " }| | | | | | | - Girghis " 2 " }| | | | | | | - Fullah girl, 7 " }| 10 | | 8 | 4 | 8 | | 20 - Mustafia " 10 " }| | | | | | | - Mushtara " 4 " }| | | | | | | - Hamma " 2 " }| | | | | | | - Beheri " 4 " }| | | | | | | - Abrian Effendi, clerk | 9 | 3 | 2 | 7 | 8 | 1 | 22 - Awad Effendi, clerk | 10 | 4 | 5 | 2 | 3 | | 15 - Abdul Fettah (deceased) | 5 | 1 | 3 | | 1 | | 6 - - MUSTER OF EMIN PASHA'S FOLLOWERS, APRIL 5th, 1889--_continued_. - - ------------------------------------+------+------+---------+-----+------+--------+-------- - NAME. | | | | | | |Total of - |Loads.|Wives.|Children.|Men. |Women.|Infants.|People. - ------------------------------------+------+------+---------+-----+------+--------+-------- - Mohammed Kher, clerk | 5 | 6 | 3 | 2 | 5 | | 17 - Ibrahim Effendi, lieutenant | 5 | 1 | 1 | | | | 3 - Mohammed Effendi Emin, soldier | 8 | 4 | | | | 3 | 8 - Hamid Mohammed, soldier | 3 | 1 | | | 1 | 2 | 5 - Yusuf Effendi }| | | | | | | - Mohammed, his son, 12 years }| 12 | 4 | 4 | 10 | 12 | | 32 - Kahlil " 11 " }| | | | | | | - Ibrahim, his brother }| | | | | | | - Rajah Effendi, Pasha's secretary | 7 | 2 | 2 | 2 | 3 | | 10 - Arif Effendi, Pasha's clerk | 5 | 2 | | 2 | 3 | | 8 - Mabu, soldier | 2 | 1 | 1 | | | | 3 - Merjan, soldier | 1 | | | | | | 1 - Children of Mohammed Osman-- | | | | | | | - Ismail, son, 12 years }| | | | | | | - Bukra, girl, 13 " }| 4 | 3 | 3 | 2 | 2 | | 10 - Fatima " 10 " }| | | | | | | - Kur, sergeant | 2 | | | 2 | 2 | | 5 - Feruzi, trumpeter | 2 | 1 | | | | | 2 - Seeroor Adam, soldier | 5 | 3 | 2 | 3 | 3 | | 12 - Ahmed Effendi Reif, storekeeper | 3 | | | 1 | 1 | | 3 - Ahmed Effendi Ibrahim, clerk | 4 | 1 | 1 | | 1 | | 4 - Abu Scherag, soldier | 4 | 1 | | 1 | | | 3 - Basili Effendi} }| | | | | | | - Toma Effendi } three Coptic }| | | | | | | - Daoud Effendi } brothers, clerks }| 11 | | | 7 | 10 | | 22 - and two sisters, captains }| | | | | | | - Awari, soldier | 3 | 2 | | | | 2 | 5 - Farag Hashin, soldier | 3 | 1 | 1 | | | | 3 - Fathel Mullah, soldier | 2 | 1 | | | | | 2 - Ibrahim, soldier | 3 | | | | | | 1 - Shukri Aga (absent), captain }| | | | | | | - His children-- }| | | | | | | - Achmed, his son, 13 years }| 15 | 6 | 4 | 4 | 7 | 3 | 24 - Juma " 12 " }| | | | | | | - Adam " 14 " }| | | | | | | - Matyera, interpreter | 3 | 4 | 1 | 1 | | | 7 - +------+------+---------+-----+------+--------+------ - | 397 | 82 | 69 |126 | 182 | 36 | 551[11] - ------------------------------------+------+------+---------+-----+------+--------+-------- - -The Pasha translated, and the Arabs bowed their assent, and through the -Vakeel and two captains, vowed that they would obey their father -religiously. - -"Good," I replied; "and now that I assume command, I want to have a list -of your names and exact number of your families, and carriers will be -allotted to you according to your number, and on the fifth day we -leave." - -Poor Pasha! It was as clear as the noonday sun why 10,000 followers had -dwindled in number to Bilal, the solitary ONE! After a patient and -scrupulous analysis of the why and wherefore of these events, the result -is manifest, and we see the utter unfitness of the scientific student -and the man of unsuspecting heart to oppose these fawning, crafty -rogues, who have made fraud and perfidy their profession. At the same -time, it is not so clear that, had he penetrated their dissimulating -wiles, and grappled with these evil men boldly, and crushed the heads of -these veterans in falsehood and craft, that his position would have been -safer than it was. Each man, however, follows his own nature, and must -abide the consequences of his judgment and acts. But all must admit, -that what is so far written does infinite credit to his heart. - -_April 6th._--Sixty-five natives have arrived here, sent by the chief -Mazamboni as carriers, to be ready for the 10th instant. - -Osman Latif Effendi, the Lieutenant-Governor of the Province, was once -much addicted to inebriety, but of late years he has become a rigid -abstainer, and such an absorbed reader of the Koran that not long ago -his clothes were aflame before he was aware of it. - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -April 6. - -Kavalli's.] - -During the sudden muster of the day before yesterday, and the fierce -declaration of my intentions, he became energetic himself, and I found -that energy, as well as disease, becomes contagious. He had prepared for -an immediate start after us. His mother, an old lady, seventy-five -years old, with a million of wrinkles in her ghastly white face, was not -very fortunate in her introduction to me, for, while almost at white -heat, she threw herself before me in the middle of the square, jabbering -in Arabic to me, upon which, with an impatient wave of the hand, I -cried, "Get out of this; this is not the place for old women." She -lifted her hands and eyes up skyward, gave a little shriek, and cried, -"O Allah!" in such tragic tones that almost destroyed my character. -Every one in the square witnessed the limp and shrunk figure, and -laughed loudly at the poor old thing as she beat a hasty retreat. - -While arranging his eleven loads, consisting of baskets of provisions, -carpets, and cooking pots and family bedding, Osman Latif Effendi held -the Koran between thumb and finger, and alternately appealed to the -Arabic lines, and to the Arab lares and penates in the baskets. - -[Illustration: AN ANCIENT EGYPTIAN LADY.] - -Among the people yesterday I found forty-nine young fellows without -arms. As they drew up in line they preferred a request to be armed with -rifles. Not knowing their character, I sent to the Pasha to be good -enough to give me a list of the most deserving, that they might assist -in the defence of the column while on the march, but he begged to be -excused, as he did not feel well enough. Poor Casati is not on speaking -terms with the Pasha, because of his judgment against him in the matter -of the little black girl of the other day, and I suppose the Pasha will -not be on speaking terms with me, because of the shock of yesterday. - -The march will do them all good. When the Pasha is in presence of -Ruwenzori--the Mountains of the Moon--he will recover tone. - -_April 7th._--The Egyptians are now earnestly preparing for the march. I -have ordered every family to have a reserve of at least six days' -provisions on hand at all times, irrespective of the plenty that may be -in the vicinity. The Zanzibaris have become at last impressed with the -necessity of this, though it required eighteen months most woeful -experience and constant instruction to teach them this secret of African -travel. - -_April 8th._--Mazamboni's natives, who have been gathering here ready -for our departure, danced nearly the whole day. The women of the Bavira -turned out _en masse_ to exhibit a farewell performance. My vanity -induces me to publish the fact that the songs were merely extemporaneous -effusions in our honour for having as they say "fixed the country in -order." - -This afternoon Omar, sergeant of our Soudanese, created a scene because -of some supposed insult to his wife by the Zanzibaris. As the affair -waxed serious, the intending combatants were brought to the square and -requested, if they would not disperse, to fight the matter out before me -as umpire. Now Omar is a splendid specimen of manhood, an excellent -soldier and officer, but both he and the cantankerous Zanzibaris were -elated above reason by native beer. Omar and his Zanzibari antagonists -loudly clamoured for a fight. "With fists or clubs?" "Clubs for men," -shouted the Zanzibaris--a very unfortunate choice for them, as it turned -out. - -Omar stood like a colossus, with his coat sleeve rolled up. A Zanzibari -sprang to the front calling out, "I am Asmani, of Muscati; behold how I -will lay low this Nubian!" They made two passes, and Asmani was struck -to the ground senseless. He was taken up and placed in charge of Dr. -Parke. - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -April 8. - -Kavalli's.] - -"Next of ye who feel aggrieved by Omar." Hajji, a tall Zanzibari, -responded, flourished his club, struck deftly one side, but the blow was -cleverly caught by Omar, and before he could recover his guard Hajji had -measured his length on the greensward. The applause was terrific. There -were some 900 people present. Hajji was dragged away like the gored -horse in the Plaza de Toros, and sent to the Doctor to be cured of his -skull-crack. - -"Next;" and at the call bounded a sturdy, active little fellow named -Ulaiya--or England. "Ho, my lads, I am England--this Turki soldier shall -die!" In his brave confidence he flung his turban away, and exposed his -bare head. One, two, three! and, alas, for Ulaiya, the baton of Omar -came down on his unprotected cranium with a blow which would have killed -a white man, but only caused him to collapse and become too confused for -further effort. The sight of the blood streaming down his face -infuriated his comrades, and a general rush was made upon Omar, who, -before he was rescued, received an extremely sore back from the -multitude of blows showered on him, so that victor and vanquished had -received adequate punishment, and declared themselves perfectly -satisfied that each of their honours had been gratified by the display. -After their wounds, they were, however, taken to the guardhouse. - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -April 9. - -Kavalli's.] - -_April 9th._--This morning the combatants of yesterday were brought -before me at muster. Sergeant Omar was informed that, whereas he, being -an officer, had allowed himself to indulge in drink, his sentence was -that he should carry a box of ammunition while on the march until the -Zanzibaris' heads were healed, and during their retirement from the -active list, he, being in the meanwhile, disrated. Three other Soudanese -were sentenced to do porter's duty for a similar period for having -drawn steel weapons during the fight with intent to do deadly injury, -and one Soudanese received a dozen for putting a cartridge with intent -to shoot. Serur, the Monbuttu, servant of the Pasha, with his master's -permission, received two dozen for employing a shovel to strike the -combatants, having been inspired by malice for the events of the 5th -instant. - -Notice was also given that the march towards Zanzibar would commence -next morning, which announcement was received with "frantic applause." - -Mpinga, Msiri, Mwite, Malai, Wabiassi, Mazamboni, and Balegga have -furnished 350 carriers. They are assembled this evening, dancing, -singing, and feasting. - -Shukri Agha, Commandant of Mswa, has not arrived yet, though he has sent -his children and women. - -_April 10th._--March from Kavalli's to Mpinga's, four hours. - -At 7.30 A.M. the column streamed out of camp led by No. 1 company, then -followed the Pasha and his people, with their allotted number of -carriers. - -Roughly the number was as follows-- - - Expedition 230 - Manyuema 130 - Plateau natives 350 - Kavallis 200 - Pasha and people 600 - ----- - Total 1,510 - ----- - -There was no disorder or disturbance. The column kept as close order as -though it was composed of veterans. The ridges and swells of land were -lined with women and children, who sang their farewells to us. Every one -was animated and happy. - -Captain Nelson, in charge of the rear guard, set fire to the straw town -which had seen so many anxious weeks of our life. The fire was splendid; -the fearful flames seemed to lick the very sky from where we stood, and -the great cloud of black smoke announced to the country round about, -even as far as Pisgah, that the Expedition was homeward bound. - -_April 11th._--Halt. - -_April 12th._--March to Mazamboni's, four and a half hours. - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -April 12. - -Mazamboni's.] - -Continued our journey to the territory of our good friend Mazamboni, but -the compact order was much broken. The Pasha's people straggled over -many miles of the road. This will have to be corrected to avoid -wholesale casualities. There is no fear in this country, for this is our -own, and the natives are in a fair way of becoming civilized. - -Lieutenant Stairs was discovered, having made ample provision for the -wants of the column, and had nothing but grateful news to deliver to us. - -_April 13th._--Halt. I write this in bed, am in great pain; Dr. Parke -informs me I suffer from sub-acute gastritis, which I judge to be -something of an inflammation of the stomach; am under the influence of -morphia. Last night about 2 A.M. the first symptoms attacked me. A halt -has been ordered, which I fear will be a long one. This compulsory pause -will be a forced extension of time to those misguided people of the -Equatorial Province who may hear of our departure from Kavalli, and who -may take this halt as a further grace offered to them. - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -April 13. - -Mazamboni's.] - -Now followed, one day after another, days of excessive pain and almost -utter weariness of life. The body pined for want of the nourishment that -the excoriated stomach invariably rejected. Nothing but milk and water -could be taken, and the agony caused by the digestion had to be eased by -hypodermic injections of morphia. For the first few days the devoted -surgeon enabled me to hope that, through his skilful nursing, I might -soon recover, and my mind became active in planning the homeward march, -and conceiving every unhappy circumstance attending it, and the -necessary measures that should be taken. I supposed Kabba Rega was aware -of the retreat of the Pasha and his people, and would do his utmost to -oppose our progress, conceded to him in imagination hundreds of rifles, -and thousands of spearmen with his allies, who use the long bows of the -Wahuma, and fancied that after him we should meet the brave and warlike -Wasongora, of whom I had heard in 1875, and then the Wanyankori, with -their king named the "Lion," persecuting the column night and day, and -victim after victim dropping from among our living ranks; and then the -passage of the Alexandra Nile amid a rain of arrows, to encounter the no -less hostile people of Karagwe, assisted by the Waganda, and the column -daily decreasing in strength and numbers, until some day, a few, after -infinite struggles, would reach Msalala, and tell Mackay, the -missionary, the horrible scenes of disaster that had dogged us and -finally destroyed us; and lying helpless on my bed, with the murmur of -the great camp round about me, all these difficulties, arrayed by the -vividness of my imagination, had to be struggled against in some way, -and forthwith I lost myself in imaginary scenes of endless fights and -strategies along the base of the snowy range, seizing every point of -vantage, rushing into a palisaded village, and answering every shot with -two of most deadly aim; climbing a hill slope and repelling the enemy -with such spleen that they would be glad to cease the persecution. Or at -crossing of broad rivers, after a troublous search for the means, the -ambuscades protecting the ferry, or forming zeribas with frantic energy, -every man and woman assisting, the sharpshooters' rifles keeping up the -incessant and venomous fire; Stairs, Nelson, Jephson, Parke halloing -their men with cheering voice, and every one aflame with desire to -defend the people entrusted to our charge. Or scenes of combat in the -underwood of the tropic forest, utterly heedless of the divine beauty of -tropic flowering, cool shades and merry streamlets, and absorbed only in -the sanguinary necessities of the moment. I sometimes worked myself into -such a pitch of exaltation that a fever came and clouded all, and caused -me to babble confusedly, and the Doctor, gently shaking his head, would -have to administer an opiate. - -Nor were these the only bugbears raised in my dazed mind. Morning after -morning came the reports as usual of plots, and seditious circles of men -drawing new nets of craft to gain something I knew not what, and -pleasing their cruel hearts with foretelling the most ominous events. -Many a rumour seemed to be afloat that the rebels were advancing with a -soldiery bent on destruction, and the number of those deserting the camp -by night grew greater and greater, until I had counted eighty. And then -it was told me that someone was most active in disseminating falsehoods -and inventions of terrible scenes of starvation wherein nothing but -grass would be eaten, and that there was a grand effort to be made, -because the effect of these tales was so widespread that something like -a panic had seized the people. - -The Pasha discovered one of his men as being most industrious at this -evil work, and had had him tried and convicted, and sent for a detail of -men to shoot him as an example. "No detail of Zanzibaris can be sent," I -managed to whisper to Stairs. "Let the Pasha shoot his guilty man with -his own people. If he needs a guard for protection, let him have the -men, but we came to save life, not to destroy it." And as his own people -could not be trusted to execute such an order, the man's life was -spared. - -Then it was told me that one of the Lieutenant-Governor's men had shot a -friendly native through the head, because the poor fellow had not been -quick enough in collecting fuel to please the hard-hearted slave. "Put -him in chains," I said, "but do not kill him. Feed him and fatten him -ready for the march. He will do to carry a reserve of ammunition." - -"In a few days there will be few officers left," said Nelson. "They are -all going fast, and our labour has been in vain." "Let them go," I -replied. "If they do not wish to follow their Pasha, let them alone." - -Then came a report that Rehan had taken with him twenty-two people, with -several rifles belonging to us. - -"Ah well, Stairs, my dear fellow, pick out forty good men, march to the -Nyanza. You will find the rendezvous of these fellows at the Lake Shore -camp. Be very wary, and let your capture of them be sudden and thorough, -and bring them back. By taking our rifles they have made themselves -liable." - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -April 17. - -Mazamboni's.] - -On the fourth day later Lieutenant Stairs returned, having made an -excellent haul of carefully guarded prisoners, among whom was Rehan, the -ringleader. - -A court of officers was convened, the witnesses were summoned, and from -their evidence it was ascertained that his flight was to precede by two -days a general exodus of the Soudanese men, women, and children; that it -was a part of a deliberate plan to arm themselves at our expense, so -that, on the arrival of Selim Bey, who was daily expected, we should be -unable to make any prolonged defence. It was proved that he had -commenced his seditious practices soon after it was known that I was -seriously ill; that he had begun his intrigues by publishing the most -audacious statements respecting our cruelties when on the march; how -every officer and Soudanese would be laden with crushing loads on their -heads, that food would be denied them, and they would be told to feed on -grass. The final fall of the Equatorial Government resulted from the -scandalous falsehoods of an Egyptian clerk and lieutenant. Officers and -soldiers of the Pasha were summoned to bear witness to what they had -heard emanating from this man, and a mass of evidence, complete and -conclusive, was furnished to prove that Rehan had been guilty of most -atrocious practices, subversive of all discipline, and endangering the -safety of the Expedition and its charge. It was also proved that Rehan -had appropriated several rifles from the Expedition, with the intention -of joining Selim Bey, and finally employing our weapons and ammunition -against people who had done naught but good and kindness to him and his -friends. Thirdly, he was convicted of absconding with several women -belonging to the harems of the Egyptian officers. Fourthly, of -desertion; and fifthly, of having shot some friendly natives between our -camp and the Nyanza, after his flight from camp. The Court resolved -that on each specification the man Rehan deserved death. - -To my suggestion, that possibly a milder sentence, such as chaining him, -or putting him in a forked pole, with a box of ammunition on his head, -would be preferable, the Court was immovable; and, reviewing the case -carefully, I concurred in the sentence, and ordered that all should -assemble to hear the charges, the finding, and the sentence. - -I was borne out of my bed into the presence of the people, and though to -all present I seemed to be fast drifting into that dark and unknown -world whence none return who enter, I found strength to address the -doomed man. - -"Rehan, we are both before God; but it is written in the book of Fate -that you shall precede me to the grave. You are a wicked man, unfit to -breathe the air among men. I found you the slave of Awash Effendi, and I -made you a freeman, and the equal of any soldier here. I remember when, -in the forest, our friends were dying daily from weakness and hunger, I -asked you to assist in carrying the ammunition for your Pasha; you -freely consented to do so for wages. When the men recovered their -strength you were relieved of your load. When you were ill, I looked -after you, and supplied you with that which made you well. You knew that -all our sufferings were undergone while carrying ammunition for you and -your friends. When the work was done, your heart became black, and you -have daily sought to do us harm. You have wished to rob us of the means -of returning home; you have tried your best, in the malice of your -heart, to wrong us; you have vilified us; you have entered the houses of -the Egyptians and stolen their women, and you have murdered our native -friends who have given us food gratuitously for the last three months; -for all of which you deserve death by suspension from that tree. A -number of men, who were your friends at one time, have tried your case -patiently and fairly, and they answer me with one voice that you shall -die. - -"Now, I will give you one more chance for life. Look around on these men -with whom you have eaten and drunk. If there is any one of them who will -plead for you, your life is yours. - -"What say you, Soudanese and Zanzibaris? Shall this man have life or -death?" - -"Death!" came from every voice unanimously. - -"Then _Yallah rabuna_! Depart to God!" - -The Soudanese with whom he had gossipped and fraternally lived in the -forest briskly stepped forward and seized him, and the Zanzibaris flung -the fatal noose around his neck. A man climbed the tree, and tossed the -rope to a hundred pair of willing hands, and at the signal marched away, -and Rehan was a silent figure hanging between earth and heaven. - -"Pass the word, Mr. Stairs, throughout the camp among the Pasha's -people, and bid them come and look at the dead Rehan, that they may -think of this serious scene, and please God mend their ways." - -I had a relapse that night, and for days afterwards it appeared to me -that little hope was left for me. Then my good doctor was stricken -sorely with a pernicious type of fever which has so often proved fatal -on the African seaboard of the Atlantic. For many a day he was also an -object of anxiety, and the Pasha being a medical practitioner in past -times most kindly bestirred himself to assist his friend. Then Mr. -Mounteney Jephson fell so seriously ill that one night his life was -despaired of. He was said to be in a state of collapse, and our -priceless doctor rose from his sick bed and hastened with his men -supporting him to the side of his sick comrade, and applied -restoratives, and relieved our intense anxieties, and before retiring, -he called upon me to relieve my spasms. Thus passed these dreadful days. - -On the 29th of April I was able to sit up in bed, and from this date to -the 7th of May there was a steady but sure improvement, though the -tongue which indicated the inflammation of the mucous membrane of the -stomach appeared to be obstinately unpromising. - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -May 3. - -Mazamboni's.] - -_May 3rd._--Two packets of letters were brought to me by natives in the -neighbourhood of the Lake shore, and as they were in Arabic I sent them -to the Pasha. Presently the Pasha appeared and demanded an interview. -When he was seated he informed me that there had been a mistake, for one -of the packets was a mail for Wadelai despatched some days ago from our -camp, while the other packet was the mail from Wadelai. - -As I was not aware of any mail having been sent away since we had -arrived at Mazamboni's, such a packet must have been sent secretly, and -most probably with sinister intentions to us. "Therefore, Pasha, as we -are evidently in a state of war with your evil-minded people, I beg you -will be good enough to open the packet and read a few of those letters -to me, for you know everything is fair in war." - -The first letter was from Shukri Agha, and was a kindly letter to his -friend Selim Bey. There was not a syllable in it that was otherwise than -sterling honesty, and honest hopes of an early meeting. - -The second was from Ibrahim Effendi Elham, a captain who was in the -camp. It said, "I hope you will send us fifty soldiers as soon as you -receive this letter. We have started, and are now waiting for a few days -here. _I pray you, in the name of God, not to delay sending these men, -because if we have them to help us, we can delay the march of the -Expedition in many ways, but if you came yourself with 200 soldiers we -could obtain all you and I wish._ Our friends are anxiously expecting -news from you every day. The necessity is urgent." - -"That is a discovery, Pasha! Now are you satisfied that these people are -incorrigible traitors?" - -"Well, I should not have expected this of Ibrahim Effendi Elham. I have -been constantly kind to him. As for Selim Bey, I cannot see what he can -want." - -"It is this, Pasha. In reality few of these men wish to go to Egypt. -Even Selim Bey, despite all his promises, never intended to proceed to -Egypt. They were willing to accompany you until they reached some -promising land, where there was abundance of food and cattle, and -removed from all fear of the Mahdists; they then would tell you that -they were tired of the march, that they would die if they proceeded any -farther, and you, after conferring with me, would grant them ammunition, -and promise to send some more to them by-and-by. But this ammunition -would not be sufficient in their eyes, however liberal you were. Their -rifles would be too few, nothing would satisfy them but all the rifles -and ammunition and everything we possessed. Wait a moment, Pasha, and I -will reveal the whole plot to you. - -"After Mr. Jephson received my order last January, of course the news -soon spread as far north as your farthest station that I had arrived -with all my people and stores. They knew, though they affected to -disbelieve it, that the Khedive had sent ammunition to you. But they -were clever enough to perceive that they could get nothing from me -without an order from you. But as Jephson had fled and conveyed the news -of your deposition and imprisonment to me, even an order would scarcely -suffice. They therefore, knowing your forgiving disposition, come to -you, a deputation of them, to profess regret and penitence; they kiss -your hand and promise greatly, which you accept, and as a sign of amity -and forgiveness of the past accompany them, and introduce them to me. -You ask for a reasonable time for them, and it is granted. But so strong -was the temptation, they could not resist stealing a rifle. If they -intend to go with us, what do they wish to do with this rifle while -steaming on the Lake? Is it not a useless incumbrance to them? I suppose -that the varying strength and influence of the factions have delayed -them longer than they thought, and we have been saved from proceeding to -extremes by their dissensions. - -"Since I have heard Mr. Jephson's story, and your own account which -differs but little from his, and the different versions of Awash -Effendi, Osman Latif Effendi, and the Zanzibaris, I have long ago made -up my mind what to do. These people are not those to whom you may -preach and reason with effect, their heads are too dense, and their -hearts are too hardened with lying. They can understand only what they -feel, and to make such as these feel they must receive hard knocks. When -I had thoroughly sounded the depths of their natures my mind began to -discover by what method I could master these men. There were half a -dozen methods apparently feasible, but at the end of each there was an -obstacle in my way. - -"You could not guess what that obstacle was, Pasha?" - -"No, I cannot." - -"This obstacle that presented itself constantly, at the end of every -well-digested method, was yourself." - -"I! How was that?" - -"On the 5th of April you ceased to be so, but until then, I could not -carry any scheme into execution without reference to you. You were in -our eyes the Pasha still. You were the Governor and Commander of these -people. I could not propose to you to fight them. You believed in them -constantly. Each day you said, 'They will come, but it never came across -your mind to ask yourself, 'What will they do after they do come, if -they find they outnumber us three to one?' Had they come before the 5th -of April, my plan was to separate from you and leave you with them, and -form camp, with every detail of defence considered, seven or eight miles -from you. All communications were to be by letter, and guides were to be -furnished after we had gone in the advance a day's march, to show you -the road to our last camp. No force of any magnitude would be permitted -to approach my camp without a fight. - -"But after the 5th of April this method was altered. I should have been -wrong were I to separate from you, because I had a proof sufficient for -myself and officers that you had no people, neither soldiers nor -servants; that you were alone. I proposed then as I propose now; should -Selim Bey reach us, not to allow Selim Bey, or one single soldier of his -force, to approach my camp with arms. Long before they approach us we -shall be in position along the track, and if they do not ground arms at -command--why, then the consequences will be on their heads. Thus you see -that since the 5th of April I have been rather wishing that they would -come. I should like nothing better than to bring this unruly mob to the -same state of order and discipline they were in before they became -infatuated with Arabi, Mahdism, and chronic rebellion. But if they come -here they must first be disarmed; their rifles will be packed up into -loads, and carried by us. Their camp shall be at least 500 yards from -us. Each march that removes them further from Wadelai will assist us in -bringing them into a proper frame of mind, and by-and-by their arms will -be restored to them, and they will be useful to themselves as well as to -us." - -The day following our arrival at Mazamboni's, Shukri Agha, Commandant of -Mswa, had at length appeared. He had started from his station with -twenty soldiers. Arriving at Kavalli on the plateau, he had but ten -left; on reaching our camp he had but two, his trumpeter and -flag-bearer. All the rest had deserted their captain. It is needless to -comment on it. - -It is now the 7th of May. I hear this evening that there is quite a -force at Lake Shore Camp. Preparations for departure have been made -during the last four days. We will start to-morrow. We have been in this -country since the 18th of January--110 days. If this force proposes to -follow us, they can easily overtake such a column as ours, and if they -impress me that they are really desirous of accompanying us, we will not -be adverse to granting them some more time. - -On the 7th of May I requested Lieutenant Stairs to bury twenty-five -cases of ammunition in the ground-floor of his house, in order that if -the rebel officers appeared and expressed earnest penitence, and begged -to be permitted to stay at Mazamboni's, they might have means of -defence. Mr. Stairs performed this duty thoroughly and secretly. - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -May 8. - -Bunyambiri.] - -[Illustration: RESCUED EGYPTIANS AND THEIR FAMILIES.] - -_May 8th._--As I was too weak to walk more than fifty yards, I was -placed in a hammock, and was borne to the front to guide the column. -We advanced westward a few miles; then, abandoning our old route to the -forest, turned southwards by a well-trodden track, and travelled along -the base of the western slope of the group of hills known as Undussuma. -We were presently amongst the luxuriant fields, plantain and banana -plantations of the village of Bundegunda. The Indian corn and beans were -very flourishing, and these extended far into the fields and hollows of -the hills, a perfect marvel of exuberant plenty. It made a great and -favourable impression upon the Egyptians and their followers, and we -even wondered at the prodigious fertility of the soil and the happy -condition of the district. One reason for all this extraordinary -abundance was the protection and shelter from the cold winds blowing -from the Lake. - -An hour's march beyond the limits of the cultivation of Bundegunda, -through other fields of equal fertility and productiveness, we formed -camp, or rather located ourselves, in the village of Bunyambiri, which -Mazamboni had caused to be abandoned for our necessities. - -As Mazamboni escorted us with 300 of his own men, and was with us in -person, free permission was given to each member of the column to range -at will among the plantations and fields. The people thus literally -feasted on the ripe fruit of the banana, and the new beans, yams, sweet -potatoes, colocassia, &c. In return for his services and hospitality, -Mazamboni received forty head of cattle and sixteen tusks of ivory, -averaging 52 lbs. each. To my shame, however, the chief complained that -his people were being detained as slaves, and Lieutenant Stairs and his -brother officers had to escort him round the villages, to discover and -restore them to him. This was so very Egyptian, however, to consider -every service performed as their due, for some virtues and graces which, -though possibly innate in them, remained hidden so long. - -In the afternoon three soldiers, accompanied by Ayoub Effendi, an -Egyptian clerk, made their appearance with letters from Selim Bey. They -bring an extraordinary budget of news, which will bear being related, as -it is only one more final proof of how utterly lost to all sense and -reason were the officers and soldiers of the Equatorial Province, and -how utterly incapable they were to appreciate the nature of their late -Pasha and Governor. - -They say that Fadl el Mulla Bey and his party appeared for a time to be -consenting to all orders received from Emin Pasha and myself through -Selim Bey Mator, and apparently busied themselves with the preparations -for departure. Selim Bey had transported all the garrison of Duffle to -Wadelai by the steamers _Khedive_ and _Nyanza_, in doing which he had -broken his promise to us, and disregarded the orders to which, when -delivered to him, he swore obedience to the letter. It will be -remembered that he had been instructed to begin the transport of the -people from Wadelai to our Lake Shore camp, that we might assist the -people with the luggage to the plateau, while the transport on the Lake -by steamers would continue, and at the same time the garrisons of the -northernmost stations could march with their families and concentrate at -Wadelai. Thus we had idly waited from the 25th February until the 8th -May in the neighbourhood of the Lake, a period of ninety-two days, for -the appearance of some of them, as a proof that they were really in -earnest in their wish to depart with us. - -While Selim Bey was thus carrying the troops and their families from the -lower stations to Wadelai, he was unwittingly strengthening the force of -the opposite faction, that of Fadl el Mulla Bey, and they had no sooner -joined their numbers to him than he resolved to throw off the mask. In -the dead of night he marched his troops to the magazines, and, -possessing himself of all the ammunition stored there, left Wadelai and -proceeded north-west to the country of the Makkaraka. When Selim Bey -woke next morning, he found his following to consist of 200 officers, -soldiers, and clerks, the magazines empty, and no ammunition remaining -but the forty rounds per head which had been distributed to his soldiers -a few days previously. Bitterly cursing his fate and his misfortune, he -commenced embarking his people on board the steamers, and then departed -for Mswa, where he arrived on the 22nd of April, to remove south as far -as possible from all danger of the Mahdists. He had still abundance of -time, if his crass mind could only realise his position. In an hour he -could have obtained fuel sufficient from the abandoned station, and -might easily have arrived at our Lake Shore camp in nine hours' -steaming. On the 7th May he bethinks himself of our Expedition and of -his Pasha, and dictates one letter to us, which when read by us, only -provokes a smile. - -It says, "We wish to know why you convert Egyptian officers and soldiers -into beasts of burden. It has been reported to us that you have cruelly -laden all with baggage, and that you convert the soldiers into porters. -This is most shameful, and we shall strictly inquire into it." - -Another letter was of very different tenor. It related the treachery of -Fadl el Mulla, by whom he had been duped and abandoned, and begging us -to wait for him and his people, as absolute ruin stared them in the -face. They had but forty cartridges each, and if Kabba Rega attacked -them, they must be inevitably destroyed. - -The soldiers were called, and they gave us the details. Twenty soldiers -had arrived at Mazamboni's, but only these three had volunteered to -follow us. They also pleaded most abjectly for a further delay. The -Pasha and I exchanged looks. - -"But, my friends," I asked, "how can we be sure that Selim Bey intends -coming after all?" - -"He will be sure to do so this time." - -"But why is he waiting at Mswa? Why not have come himself with his -steamer to the Lake Shore camp? It is only nine hours' journey." - -"He heard through some deserters that you had gone on." - -"It might have been easy for him to have overtaken such a big caravan -as this, with the few people whom he leads." - -"But everything is going wrong. There are too many counsellors with -Selim Bey, and the Egyptian clerks fill his ears with all kinds of -stories. He is honest in his wishes to leave the land, but the others -bewilder us all with their falsehoods." - -"Well, we cannot stay here to await Selim Bey. I will go on slowly--a -couple of hours a day. I must keep these people marching, otherwise the -Pasha will be left alone. When we have crossed the Semliki River, we -will choose a place on the other side a few days, and then move slowly -again for a day or two, and halt. If Selim Bey is serious in his -intentions, he will soon overhaul us; and, besides, when we reach the -river we will send him a guide that will enable him to travel in four -days what will take us twelve days. You will carry a letter from the -Pasha to him explaining all this. But you must take care to be kind to -the natives, otherwise they will not help you." - -Among our Egyptians there was one called Ali Effendi, a captain, who -complained of heart disease. He had been ailing for months. He had nine -men and nine women servants, and, in addition to these, twelve carriers -were allotted to him. His baggage numbered twenty loads. He could not -travel 100 yards; he had also a child of six years that was too small to -walk. He required six carriers more, and there was not one to be -obtained, unless I authorised levying carriers by force from the -natives, an act that would have to be repeated day by day. We persuaded -this man to return, as a few days' march would finish him. As he would -not return without his family of fifteen persons, we consigned them to -the charge of the couriers of Selim Bey, who would escort him back to -their chief. - -The guides promised to this dilatory and obtuse Soudanese colonel were -despatched, according to promise, with a letter from the Pasha; and -though we loitered, and halted, and made short journeys of between one -and three hours' march for a month longer, this was the last -communication we had with Selim Bey. What became of him we never -discovered, and it is useless to try to conjecture. He was one of those -men with whom it was impossible to reason, and upon whose understanding -sense has no effect. He was not wicked nor designing, but so stupid -that he could only comprehend an order when followed by a menace and -weighted with force; but to a man of his rank and native courage, no -such order could be given. He was therefore abandoned as a man whom it -was impossible to persuade, and still less compel. - - - - -CHAPTER XXVII. - -EMIN PASHA.--A STUDY. - - - The Relief of David Livingstone compared with the Relief of Emin - Pasha--Outline of the journey of the Expedition to the first - meeting with Emin--Some few points relating to Emin on which we had - been misinformed--Our high conception of Emin Pasha--Loyalty of the - troops, and Emin's extreme indecision--Surprise at finding Emin a - prisoner on our third return to the Nyanza--What might have been - averted by the exercise of a little frankness and less reticence on - Emin's part--Emin's virtue and noble desires--The Pasha from our - point of view--Emin's rank and position in Khartoum, and gradual - rise to Governor of Equatoria--Gordon's trouble in the - Soudan--Emin's consideration and patience--After 1883 Emin left to - his own resources--Emin's small explorations--Correctness of what - the Emperor Hadrian wrote of the Egyptians--The story of Emin's - struggles with the Mahdi's forces from 1883 to 1885--Dr. Junker - takes Emin's despatches to Zanzibar in 1886--Kabba Rega a declared - enemy of Emin--The true position of Emin Pasha prior to his relief - by us, showing that good government was impossible--Two documents - (one from Osman Digna, and the other from Omar Saleh) received from - Sir Francis Grenfell, the Sirdar. - -Now that we have actually turned our backs to the Equatoria, and are -"homeward bound" with Emin Pasha, Captain Casati, and a few hundreds of -fugitives in company, let us look back upon the late events, and try to -discover the causes of them, and in what light we may truthfully regard -the late governor. - -When I was commissioned, while yet a very young man, for the relief of -David Livingstone, the missionary, I had no very fixed idea as to what -manner of man he was. The newspapers described him as worthy of the -Christian world's best regard; privately men whispered strange things of -him. One, that he had married an African princess, and was comfortably -domiciled in Africa; another, that he was something of a misanthrope, -and would take care to maintain a discreet distance from any European -who might be tempted to visit him. Not knowing whom to believe, I -proceeded to him with indifference, ready to take umbrage, but I parted -from him in tears. The newspapers were right in his case. - -In the instance of Emin Pasha, the newspapers, inspired by travellers -who were supposed to know him, described a hero, a second Gordon, a -tall, military-looking figure, austere in manners, an amateur in many -sciences, who, despite the universal misfortune hovering over a large -part of North-Central Africa, maintained evenness of mind, tranquillity -of soul, and governed men and things so well that he was able to keep -the Mahdi and his furious hordes at bay; that he had defeated his -generals several times, but that so severe and desperate had been his -resistance that he had almost exhausted his means. Like my personal -friends, who so generously subscribed the money for this expedition, it -filled me with pity to hear all this, as it filled the hearts of such -men as Stairs, Jephson, Nelson, Parke, Barttelot, Jameson, and many -hundreds of eager applicants for membership. Junker said his danger was -imminent; that the Pasha must yield before the overwhelming forces -arrayed against him, if not soon relieved. We seemed to feel that it was -true. On board the steamer while at sea, and during our journey up the -Congo, within the camp at Yambuya, while pressing on through the sullen -shades of the endless forest, until we stood on the verge of the -plateau--nay, until we stood on the shore of the Nyanza, the one fear -that had possessed us was that, notwithstanding every effort, we should -be also too late. Then only, when the natives on the Lake side averred, -to our eager and insistent enquiries, that they knew of no white man or -steamer being on the Lake, were we tempted to utter our suspicions. But -it was yet too early to declaim; the overland couriers from Zanzibar -might have been delayed, the steamer may have foundered soon after -Junker's departure, and Emin may have been unable to reach the -south-west end of the Lake. - -After an absence of nearly four months we were again on the Lake shore. -There were letters awaiting us from him. He had heard a rumour by -accident of our arrival, and had steamed down to the south-west end of -the Lake to verify it. It was only nine hours distant from his -southernmost station, and this had been his first visit. The effect was -excellent, but it was a great pity that he had not conformed to the -request sent by couriers at so much expense from Zanzibar. For the mere -number of lives saved it would have been better; we will say nothing of -the fatigue and suffering endured by us during the four months, for we -were vowed to that, and to the uttermost that he would demand and our -mission would exact. Still we said nothing. - -We were twenty-six days together after the meeting. During this period -we discovered that on some few points we had been misinformed. The Pasha -was not a tall military figure, nor was he by any means a Gordon. He was -simply Emin Pasha, with a greatness peculiar to himself. He was like -unto none that we had met before, but he was like unto some, perhaps, -that we had read of. - -We knew nothing positively detracting from our high conception of him. -What we saw was entirely in his favour. We witnessed what we conceived -to be a high state of discipline among the troops; we saw the steamers, -and the admirable state they were in; we thought we saw evidences of a -strong civilising and ruling influence; we obtained specimens of the -cloth his people had manufactured out of cotton grown by themselves; we -had a plentiful supply of liquor distilled from fermented millet; he was -exquisitely clean in person; prim, precise, withal courteous in manner; -he was extremely kind and affable, accomplished in literature, an -entertaining conversationalist, a devoted physician, an altogether -gentle man, whom to know was to admire. Had we parted with him at this -time we should have come away from his presence simply charmed with him. -No, decidedly he was not a Gordon; he differed greatly from Gordon in -some things--as, for example, in his devotion to science, in his careful -attention to details, in his liberal and charitable views of men and -things, in his high desire to elevate and instruct men in practical -usefulness, and his noble hopefulness of the land which was the scene of -his efforts. - -But while we admired him, a suspicion fixed itself in our minds that -there was something inexplicable about him. He sent a clerk and an -Egyptian lieutenant to speak with me. To my amazement they roundly -abused him. Each word they uttered they emphasized with hate and -indescribable scorn. - -Then a Soudanese captain related to me the story of a revolt of the 1st -Battalion which had taken place soon after Dr. Junker had parted from -him. He had fled from their neighbourhood, and had never been near them -since. But the 2nd Battalion, 650 rifles, was faithful to him, it was -said, so were the irregulars, 3000 in number. These formed a very -respectable force. So long as the 2nd Battalion and the irregulars were -loyal his position was still firm. - -Then the major and several captains of the 2nd Battalion were introduced -by him to me. After a while he said to the major, "Now, promise me, -before Mr. Stanley, that you will grant me forty men for this little -station that Mr. Stanley advises us ought to be built." That is curious, -too, for a Governor, I thought, and, try how I might to avoid reflecting -upon it as a trifle, its strangeness reverted often to my mind. But, in -the absence of frank information, it remained inexplicable. - -Then, again, it struck us all that an extreme indecision marked the -Pasha's conduct. Of course, as we were unable to explain it, our -sympathies undoubtedly were with him. We did not consider the 1st -Battalion, but if the 2nd Battalion and the irregulars were all loyal to -him, and were yet firm in their resolution to remain in the country, it -would have required a heart of stone to have abandoned them. That the -few Egyptians who were involved in restless intrigue against him wished -to go home was of no importance. The Pasha led us to believe that he -would be glad of their departure. But if the majority of the troops were -loyal, and preferred Equatoria to Egypt, and he loved his work, where -then was the cause of indecision? - -If Egypt intended to cast him off, what matter need it be to him? Here -was this offer of L12,000 annual subsidy, and L1500 salary to reimplace -Egypt. - -Or if Egypt only was objectionable, and another portion of Equatoria -under English auspices would be preferable, there was the alternative -with superior advantages of regular communication and certain support. - -When speaking of the troops--the 2nd Battalion and irregulars--Emin -Pasha was confident in their loyalty, and always stout in his -declarations that they would follow him if he elected to serve under -English auspices in Equatoria. He also said that it was by far the most -preferable offer made to him. Well, then, admitting that the troops are -loyal to him, that they would follow him anywhere, and that the offer is -agreeable to himself--why this indecision? - -We were compelled to retrace that weary journey to Banalya, and -returning to Fort Bodo to make double marches thence to the Ituri, and -arriving at the Nyanza for the third time, after an absence of eight and -a half months, we discovered that the object of our solicitude was a -prisoner, and that all the troops reputed loyal, and in whom he had such -implicit faith, were rebels, and had deposed him! This news was a -painful shock and a grievous surprise to us. But was it a surprise to -him? - -When we come to glance over his letters, and study them with the -knowledge we now have, it transpires that in many of them he hints at -troubles and dissensions among his troops, but led by his sanguine -optimistic nature they were regarded too slightingly by us. People at -home believed that they were but temporary ebullitions of discontent. We -in Africa knew only that the 1st Battalion were implicated. Dr. Junker -had not even deemed them of sufficient importance to mention--he only -expressed a doubt that Emin would abandon his civilising mission and -relegate himself to a useless life in Egypt as a retired Pasha, hence -the doubt implied in the Khedive's letter: "You may take advantage of -Mr. Stanley's escort, if you please; if you decline doing so, you remain -in Africa on your own responsibility." But Mr. Jephson, who is -associated with Emin during our absence, no sooner finds himself within -the military circles of the Province than it strikes him that the Pasha -has kept us in ignorance of the "true state of affairs." The -dissatisfaction of Mr. Jephson culminates when he finds himself a -prisoner, and finds leisure to ponder upon the unhappy prospect of being -paraded through the streets of Khartoum as the Khalifa's syce, or slave, -and my own may be forgiven when I find by indisputable proofs that this -might have been averted by the exercise of a little frankness and less -reticence on the Pasha's part. - -For had the Pasha informed me that he could not lead his troops to -Egypt, nor accept the subsidy and pay offered him, nor accept the -position under English auspices, because his troops had long ago cast -off all allegiance and had become chronically disloyal, and that he -really could not depend upon any one company of them, something else -might have been proposed. It could not have been a difficult matter to -have attacked every station in detail and reduced one after another to a -wholesome dread of authority. It needed only firmness and resolution on -the part of the Pasha. Had we begun at Mswa we should have found sixty -soldiers led by Shukri Agha, who has as yet not been implicated in any -disloyal act. These could have been embarked with our 300 on board the -steamer, and we could have advanced upon Tunguru. In thirty minutes that -station might have been settled, the disobedient shot, and marching with -the prestige of authority and victory, Wadelai would have succumbed -without the loss of a man except the ringleaders; and the other -stations, hearing of these successive measures, would soon have been so -terrified that we should have heard of nothing but capitulation -everywhere. The Madhi's troops being at one end of the line of stations -and a resolute column advancing from the other end, these rebels would -have had no other option than surrender to one or the other. - -But supposing that such a course had been adopted, of what avail, we may -well ask, would all this have been? Emin Pasha has been reinstalled in -his power and we must of necessity retire. What, then? In a few months -he is again in terrible straits for want of resources, and another call -for L30,000 and a new expedition is made to be repeated year after year, -at immense cost of life and immense sacrifices; for a land so distant -from the sea, and surrounded by warlike peoples and other disadvantages, -that were its soil of silver dust it would scarcely pay the transport. -Yet if Emin Pasha had expressed his desire to embark upon such an -enterprise, and been firm in his resolution, it was not for us to -question the wisdom of his proceeding, but to lend the right hand and -act with good-will. - -Was it a delusion on the Pasha's part, or was it his intention to -mislead us? I believe it was the former, caused by his extraordinary -optimism and his ready faith in the external show or affectation of -obedience. Even the crafty Egyptians had become penetrated with a high -sense of their power by the facility with which they gained pardon for -offences by ostentatious and obsequious penitence. Is this too harshly -worded? Then let me say in plain Anglo-Saxon, that I think his good -nature was too prone to forgive, whenever his inordinate self-esteem was -gratified. The cunning people knew they had but to express sorrow and -grief to make him relent, and to kiss his hands to cause him to forget -every wrong. There was therefore too little punishing and too much -forgiving. This amiability was extremely susceptible and tender, and the -Egyptians made the most of it. The Yakeel had cause to bless it. Awash -Effendi, major of the 2nd Battalion, suggested to the rebels, by a -letter which I believe the Pasha still possesses, that he should be made -the Mudir instead Emin, yet the Pasha never even reproached him. Azra -Effendi declared the Khedive's letter to be forgery, but never a rebuke -passed the lips of the Pasha, and Azra was conducted to the sea safely. - -The virtues and noble desires for which we must in strict justice -commend the man are as great and as creditable to him as those which we -cannot attribute to him. Any man striving for the sake of goodness to do -what in him lies to deserve the sweet approval of conscience becomes -armoured with a happy indifference of all else, and herein lies the -Pasha's merit, and which made his company so grateful to us when the -necessity for violent action ceased to vex him. We learned more of his -character from his manner than from words. That melancholy shake of the -head, the uplifted hand, the composed calm gravity of features, the -upturning eyes, and the little shrug, seemed to say to us, "What is the -use? You see I am resigned. I am adverse to violence; let it be. Why -force them? They surely ought to have seen during these many years that -I sought only their welfare. If they reject me, ought I to impose myself -and my ideas on them against their will?" He never admitted so much, but -we are free to construe these symptoms according to our lights. - -It is probable that his steady and loving devotion to certain pursuits -tending to increase of knowledge, and the injured eyesight, unfitted him -for the exercise of those sterner duties which appeared to us the -circumstances of his sphere demanded. But then we cannot blame him -because he loved scientific studies more than the duties of government, -or because his tastes led him to value the title of M.D. higher than the -rank of Pasha, or because he was in danger through a cataract of losing -his eyesight altogether. If the page of a book had to be brought within -two inches of his face it was physically impossible for him to observe -the moods on a man's face, or to judge whether the eyes flashed scorn or -illumined loyalty. - -Whatever may have been our own views of what ought to have been done we -have always a high respect for him. We cannot, at a moment when his own -fate lies trembling on the balance, but admire him when we see him -availing himself of every opportunity to increase his store of -lacustrine shells, or tropic plants, eager for the possession of a -strange bird without regard to its colour or beauty, as ready to examine -with interest a new species of rat as he is in the measurements of a -human skull. If a great hawk-moth or a strange longicorn, or a typhlops -be brought to him, he forthwith forgets the court-martial that is to -decide his sentence, and seems to be indifferent whether he is to be -summoned to be shot by his soldiery or to be strapped on his _angarep_ -to be deported as a prize to the Khalifa at Khartoum. When we learn all -this about him, and begin to understand him, though wondering at these -strange vagaries of human nature, we are only conscious that the man is -worth every sacrifice on our part. - -We cannot proceed by force to save him from himself, and rudely awake -him out of his dream, without his permission. His position forbids -it--our commission does not require it. To us he is only an honoured -guest expectant, to whom rudeness is out of place. Without request for -help, we are helpless. - -From our point of view we observe the Pasha, serene and tranquil, -encircled by wrangling rebels, and yet all along apparently unconscious -of the atmosphere of perfidy in which he lives--at least more inclined -to resignation than resistance. We feel that were we in his place, we -would speedily upset every combination against us, and are confident -that only one short resolute struggle is necessary to gain freedom and -power. But regarding him absorbed in his delusion that the fawning -obsequiousness of his perfidious followers and troops means devotion, -and seeing him enmeshed by treachery and fraud, and yet so credulous as -to believe this to be fidelity, we are struck dumb with amazement, and -can but turn our eyes towards one another, questioning and wondering. -For it was our misfortune, that, say what we would, we could not inspire -in him a sense of our conviction that his case was hopeless, and that -his people had cast him off utterly. We could not tell him that his men -looked down on him with contempt as a "bird collector," that they -thought he showed more interest in beetles than in men; that they only -paid him the externals of homage because they thought he was pleased and -satisfied. We could not tell him all this; but Nelson, who hated deceit, -would tell him in plain, blunt terms, that he was wrong in his beliefs, -and Parke would discourage them; and Jephson would argue with him, and -Stairs would give him open proof. But as often as these energetic young -Englishmen, out of pure friendship and pity, would attempt to warn him, -the Pasha was prompt to extenuate their offences, and excuse the malice -exhibited by his officers, and discouraged the efforts of his friends. -What each felt on returning from one of these profitless interviews had -better be left unwritten. - -He would say, "But I know my people better than you can possibly know -them. I have thirteen years' acquaintance with them, against as many -weeks that you have." - -The retort which we might have given to him was crushed under a silent -fuming, for he was still the Pasha! We might have said, "Aye; but, -Pasha, you know, you find more interest in insects than in men. You are -interested in the anatomy of a man, we in the soul. You know something -of his skull, but we can feel the pulse, and we are certain that your -faith in these men is misplaced, and that in the excess of this faith -lies folly." - -Yet in the fervour of his belief in their imaginary fidelity, and the -warmth of his manner, there was a certain nobility which deterred us -from argument. His unwarying trustfulness was not convincing; but it -deepened our regard for him, and it may be that he imbued us with a hope -that, though invisible to us, there remained some good in them. - -We dare not treat these features of a trustful, loving nature like that -of Emin Pasha with an insolent levity. He is a man, as I have said, -eminently lovable, and were it only for the pleasure we have oftentimes -received in his society, he deserves that what may be said of him shall -be delivered with charity at least. For the high though impossible hopes -entertained by him, and for the strenuous industry with which he -endeavoured to realize them, he deserves the greatest honour and -respect. - -If we will only consider the accident which brought him to Khartoum, and -the rank and position he then filled, and the manner he rose from doctor -to storekeeper at Lado, to that of Governor of African Equatoria, we -need not wonder that his nature and taste remained unchanged. The story -of Gordon's trouble in the Soudan has never been written, and it never -will be. Gordon is a name that English people do not care to examine and -define too closely. Otherwise, I should like to know why there were so -few English officers with him. I should be curious to discover why such -as had an opportunity of working with him did not care to protract their -stay in the Soudan. I am inclined to believe by my own troubles on the -Congo that his must have been great--perhaps greater; that not one of -the least of his troubles must have been the difficulty of finding good, -fit, serviceable, and willing men. In Emin Pasha he meets with a man -who, though a German and a doctor of medicine, is industrious, civil, -ready, and obliging. Had I met Emin on the Congo, those qualities would -have endeared him to me, as they must have been appreciated by Gordon. -Those qualities are much rarer than editors of newspapers imagine. Out -of three hundred officers on the Congo, I can only count ten who -possessed them, who by mere request would seize on their duties with -goodwill, and perform them. How many did Gordon have? Emin was one of -the best and truest. - -Now Emin loved botanizing, ornithology, entomology, studied geology, -made notes upon ethnology, and meteorology, and filled note-book after -note-book with his observations, and at the same time did not neglect -his correspondence. I know the courtesy with which he would write to -the Governor-General. I can imagine how the latter would be pleased with -receiving these letters--precise, careful, methodical, and polite. -Therefore Emin is pushed on in his African career from storekeeper to -chief of station, then envoy to Uganda, then offered a secretaryship, -then envoy of Gordon, then vice-king to the astute and subtle Kabba -Rega, and finally Governor of Equatoria. - -In the course of his promotions, Emin shows he is ambitious. He wants -seeds for the fields; he applies to Gordon for them, and his reply is, -"I don't want you for a gardener; I sent you to govern. If you don't -like it, come away." A proud young Englishman would have taken him at -his word, descended the Nile, and parted with Gordon sulkily. Emin sent -an apology, and wrote, "Very good, sir." Later, Emin sent for a -photograph apparatus, and receives, "I sent you to the Equatorial -Provinces as governor, not as photographer." Emin says in reply, "Very -well, sir. I thank you, sir. I will do my duty." Nor does he bother the -Governor-General with complaints that he never gets his mails in due -time, or of the provisions sent there to him. What a valuable man he -was! He showed consideration and patience, and Gordon appreciated all -this. - -By-and-by came trouble. After 1883 he is left to his own resources. The -people obey the Governor mechanically, and stations are building, and a -quiet progress is evident. They do not know yet how soon that Cromwell -at Khartoum may not ascend the Nile to Lado, and examine into the state -of affairs with his own eyes. Emin Bey, their Governor, is a very mild -ruler; that other one at Khartoum is in the habit of shooting mutineers. -Therefore, though there are many Arabists, and many inclined to that new -prophet, the Mahdi, among the troops of Emin, they are quiet. But -presently news leak that Khartoum is fallen, and Gordon slain, and all -power and stern authority prostrate; then comes the upheaval--the revolt -of the First Battalion and the flight of Emin to his more faithful -Irregulars and the Second Battalion, and finally universal dissolution -of the government. But Emin's tastes and nature remain unchanged. - -There are some things, however, I have wondered at in Emin. I have -already observed that he was earnest and industrious in making -observations upon plants, insects, birds, manners and customs, so that -he was well equipped for geographical exploration; but I was somewhat -staggered when I learned that he had not explored Lake Albert. He -possessed two steamers and two life-boats, and one station at the -north-west end of the Lake called Tunguru, and another called Mswa, -half-way up the west side; and yet he had never visited the southern end -of the Lake, examined the affluent at the south side, sounded the Lake -from the north to south and east to west; never visited the Ituri River, -which was only two days' good marching from Mswa. Had he done so he -would probably have seen the snowy range and left very little for us to -discover in that district. He had been to Monbuttu Land on business of -his province, where he had vast stores of ivory treasured; he had sent -soldiers to the edge of Turkan territory; he had been twice to Uganda -and once to Unyoro; but he had never stepped on board his steamer for a -visit to the south end of the Lake until March, 1888, when he came to -enquire into a report concerning our arrival, and then he had steamed -back again to his stations. - -The Emperor Hadrian wrote of the Egyptians that he found them "frivolous -and untrustworthy, fluttering at every wave of rumour, and were the most -revolutionary, excitable and criminal race in existence." - -Had he been present in our camp during our tedious sojourn at Kavalli's, -could he have written differently? The revolutionary character disclosed -to us compel us to endorse this description as perfect truth. -"Frivolous" we know them to be to our cost. "Untrustworthy:" were ever -men so faithless as these? "Fluttering at every wave of rumour:" our -camp bred rumours as the ground bred flies; there were as many as the -chirpings of an aviary; the least trifle caused them to flutter like a -brood from under the mother bird. A mail from Wadelai caused them to run -gadding from one circle to another, from hut to hut, from the highest to -the lowest, emulating the cackle of many hens. "Revolutionary:"--"Up -with Arabi!" "Vive le Mahdi!" "Hurrah for Fadl el Mullah Bey!" "More -power to the elbow of Selim Bey Mator!" and "Down with all Governments!" -And thus they proved themselves an excitable, frivolous, untrustworthy, -and criminal race which required government by stern force, not by -sentiment and love. - -But relieved from the dread of due penalty and the coercive arm of the -law by the fall of Khartoum and the death of the Governor-General, and -recognising that their isolation from Egypt gave them scope to follow -their vain imaginings, they were not long before they disclosed their -true characters, and revolted against every semblance of authority. -Happy was the Pasha, then, that the good record he had won in the -memories of his soldiers pleaded against the excesses to which their -unprincipled chiefs were inclined, which generally follows the ruin of -government. - -These were the people--practised in dissimulation, adepts in deceit, and -pastured in vice--which this mild-mannered man, this student of science, -governed for several years all alone, before any outbreak among them -occurred. During this portion of his career as Governor of Equatoria -only unqualified praise can be given. The troops were not all seized -with the mania prevalent in the Soudan, to uproot every vestige of -authority. - -To the north, west, and east gathered the Mahdists, barring all escape -by the Nile and cutting off all communication with Khartoum. On the 7th -of May, 1883, the first disaster occurs. Seventy soldiers are massacred -at El-del station who have been sent to reinforce the beleaguered -garrison, which, in its turn, is totally destroyed. On the 27th of -February, 1884, Lupton, the Governor of Bahr-el-Ghazal, informs him that -the rest of the inhabitants had rebelled, and on the 28th of the -following month he receives the news of the destruction of General -Hicks's army. On the 8th of April, the news is brought that the tribes -of Waddiafen, Elyat, Eofen, Euknah, Kanel, and Fakam were in open -rebellion. On the 30th of May he is informed by Lupton Bey, Governor of -the Bahr-el-Ghazal, that the Mahdi is within six hours of his -headquarters, and had summoned him to surrender his authority and -province, and warning him to take immediate steps for his defence. Four -days later, Karamalla--who in the meantime, had been appointed Governor -of Equatoria by the Mahdi to fill his place--wrote to him to deliver up -his province to him. Lupton Bey had already been vanquished. A committee -of six officers having debated this serious matter, came to the -conclusion that Emin had no other option open to him than to surrender. -In order to gain time he expressed his willingness to conform with their -decision, and despatched the judge of their province with some other -officers with the declaration of his readiness to yield.[12] - -But on the departure of the Commission, he set about fortifying the -stations in his charge, and prepared for resistance against Karamalla, -then fresh from the conquest of the Bahr-el-Ghazal. He concentrated -troops from the petty stations in the vicinity at Amadi station, and -strengthened that place against the expected attack of that proud chief, -and also gathered at headquarters a formidable force. At this critical -period he was able to weed out the most forward in their desire for -submission to the Mahdi, and to separate the loyal from the disloyal, -and vigorous orders were issued that traitors would meet with no mercy -at his hands if found communicating with the enemy. Arbeek, Ayak, and -Wafi Stations are abandoned, and the troops are gathered at Amadi. The -month following witnesses the struggle proceeding. Some of the principal -stations are so well defended that the Mahdists suffer repeated losses -of chiefs and men, while many of the Government officers have basely -abandoned their posts, and take service with Karamalla; but on the 27th -February, 1885, a month after the fall of Khartoum, the enemy has -surrounded Amadi on all sides, and a brisk siege is maintained. On the -first of April, after extraordinary efforts, the fall of Amadi is -announced, with great loss of life, ammunition, cannon, small arms, and -rockets. After hearing of this disaster, measures are taken for the -concentration of the force of the Province along the Nile, in order to -secure means of communication with Egypt _via_ Zanzibar, and Birri, -Kirri, Bedden and Rejaf stations are founded, and out of the soldiers -who have managed to escape with life from the many skirmishes and fights -in which they were engaged, during 1883, 1884, to this date (April 1885) -eight companies of eighty men each are formed, and called the First -Battalion, under the command of Major Rehan Agha Ibrahim. On the 1st of -June, after the small outlying stations have been abandoned, a -sufficient number of officers have been collected to form a second -Battalion, under the command of Major Awash Effendi Montazir, to whom -was given the command of the southern stations. In his despatch of 1st -September, 1885, to the Government of Egypt, we observe near the close -of it the first note of discontent with the Major of the First -Battalion. He says: - - "The other thing that this major has done is his sending 200 - soldiers when it was too late and when everything was finished, - which thing he did from want of decision and without asking my - permission to do so; for if the rebels were strong at first before - their capture of guns and ammunition, how much more so were they - after that. _But these disobediences have become a nature to these - persons, &c., &c._ But by the help of our merciful and great God, - and by the influence of our Government, and by the name of our - honourable Sovereign his Highness the Khedive, we were able to - preserve the honour of our Government flag up to this date." - -Yes, the honour of the Egyptian flag has been maintained, after the -shedding of "rivers of blood," after the exhibition of noble -stout-heartedness, unabated courage, and a prudent Fabian generalship, -which dispirited the enemy and animated his troops; he has been able to -align his troops in stations well fenced and fortified, so that the -struggle may be prolonged until he can hear the wishes of his Highness -the Khedive, and sound his plaint in the ears of Europe _via_ Zanzibar. -It is the story of this brave struggle that enlisted the sympathy of -myself and companions, and caused us to press on by the back door of -Africa to lend a helping hand, to rescue him if necessary, or to supply -him with the means of defence if needed. - -In April 1885 he learns "from the poor slave of God, Mohammed El Mahdi, -the son of Abdallah," in a letter to his friend and Governor Karamalla, -the son of Sheik Mohammed, to whom may God grant etc., of the death of -"that enemy to God--Gordon," and of the assault and capture of Khartoum, -and that all the Soudan from Lado down to Abu Hamad Cataract, is in the -hands of the Mahdists, and that from the north no hope of relief may be -expected. He examines his prospects and position to the south, east and -west. To the east is Kabba Rega, the King of Unyoro, and his tributary -chiefs. To him he sends Captain Casati as his representative or -ambassador. It is the policy of Kabba Rega to be kind to the Governor. -He knew him in past years as an officer of that active vice-king at -Khartoum, and was hospitable and friendly to him. He knows not as yet of -the wonderful changes that have come over that region of Africa, and is -ignorant of the ruin that had overtaken that proud Government which had -dictated laws to him. His African mind is too dense to grasp the meaning -of this new movement abreast of his territory, and therefore, fearing to -displease the Governor, he receives Captain Casati generously and with a -grand display of hospitality. By-and-by deserters approach him, cunning -Egyptians and treacherous Soudanese, with their arms and ammunition, and -bit by bit he discovers the meaning of that fierce struggle, and begins -to understand that the Government which he dreaded was a wreck. - -On the 2nd of January, 1886, Dr. Junker is taken across the Albert Lake -to Kibiro, a port of Unyoro. He is on his way home after years of travel -in Monbuttu and the Welle basin. He succeeds in reaching Uganda, and -because of his poverty is permitted to embark in a mission boat and -proceeds to Usambiro, at the south end of Lake Victoria, and thence to -Zanzibar, taking with him the despatches of Emin. It is through this -traveller we first learn the real straits that the Pasha is in, and the -distresses in prospect for him. - -Kabba Rega meanwhile is patient, like an heir-expectant. He knows that -eventually he must win. Day by day, week by week, he sits waiting. He -affects generosity to the Governor, permits letters to pass and repass -between Zanzibar and Equatoria, treats the Ambassador with due -consideration, and ostensibly he is a firm friend; so much so, that Emin -has "nothing but hearty praises of Kabba Rega." But about the 13th -February, 1888, Kabba Rega wakes up. He hears of an Expedition close to -the Nyanza, and native exaggeration has magnified its means and numbers. -On or about the same date that the Relief Expedition is looking up and -down the waters of the Nyanza for evidences of a white man's presence in -the region, Captain Casati is seized, his house robbed, and himself -expelled with every mark of ignominy and almost naked, and from this -time forth Kabba Rega is a declared enemy, having first sealed his -enmity in the blood of Mohammed Biri, who had been a trusted messenger -between Emin and the C.M.S. Mission in Uganda. - -To the west there is a great broad white blank, extending from his -Province to the Congo, of which absolutely nothing is known. To the -south there is a region marked on the map by the same white emptiness, -and turn which way he will, with a people unequal to the task of cutting -their way out and dreading the unknown, he has no other option than -waiting to see the effect of the disclosures of Junker and his own -despatches. - -But in the meantime he is not idle. By the defeat of the rebels and -Mahdists in Makkaraka he has compelled a truce, and is left undisturbed -by Karamalla. Beyond Wadelai he has established Tunguru and Mswa -stations, and though the First Battalion has long ago cast off his -authority, the Second Battalion and the Native Irregulars acknowledge, -after their way, his authority. He superintends agriculture, the -planting, raising, and manufacture of cotton, travels between station -and station, establishes friendship with the surrounding tribes, and by -his tact maintains the semblance of good government. - -There are some things, however, he cannot do: he cannot undo the evil -already done; he cannot eradicate the evil dispositions of his men, nor -can he, by only the exercise of temperate justice, appease the evil -passions roused by the revolution in the Soudan. He can only postpone -the hour of revolt. For against his sole influence are arrayed the -influences of the officers of the First Battalion, of the hundreds of -Egyptian employes scattered over the whole length of the Province, who, -by their insidious counsels, reverse the effect of every measure taken -by the Pasha, and palsy every effort made by him. He cannot inaugurate, -by the expression of his wish, a new system of dealing with the natives. -The system has been established throughout the Soudan of exacting from -the natives every species of contribution--herds, flocks, grain, and -servants; or, whenever there is scarcity, of proceeding by force of arms -and taking what they need from the aborigines. And this need, -unfortunately, is insatiable; it has no limit. The officers cannot be -limited to a certain number; each has three or four wives, besides -concubines, and these require domestic servants for their households. -Fadl el Mulla Bey's household requires a hundred slaves--men, women, -boys, and girls. The soldiers require wives, and these also must have -servants; and with the growth of the boys into manhood there grows new -needs, which the natives must satisfy with their women and children of -both sexes. - -There are 650 men and officers in the First Battalion, and as many in -the Second Battalion. There are about 3,000 Irregulars; there is a -little army of clerks, storekeepers, artisans, engineers, captains, and -sailors. These must be wived, concubined, and fed by the natives, and in -return there is nothing given to them. We hear of 8,000 head of cattle -being collected on a raid; the Pasha admitted that 1,600 beeves and cows -was the greatest number during his government. But these raids are -frequent; each station must have herds of its own, and there are -fourteen stations. Shukri Agha, Commandant of Mswa, was indefatigable in -making these raids. Of course the Pasha found this state of things in -his Province. It was an old-established custom, a custom that weighs -with all the weight of fearful oppression on the natives; and, -embarrassed as he was by the advance of Karamalla and the disease of -rebellion that raged like an epidemic in the hearts of his own subjects, -he was powerless to restrain them. But we can understand why the -natives, who had been for so many years under Egyptian government, -hailed the appearance of the Mahdists, and joined them to exterminate -the panic-stricken fugitives from the captured forts of the Province. -When the Congo State forgets its duties to its subjects, and sanctions -rapine and raiding, we may rest assured that its fall will be as sudden -and as certain as that of the Egyptian Government in the Soudan. - -I am not concerned in writing the history of this unhappy region, which -has been given up for years to be the prey of the vilest passions that -human nature is capable of feeling, but by these allusions to what I -personally know I am able to interest the reader in the true position of -Emin Pasha. This solitary man was engaged in as impossible a task as was -that of Gordon when he undertook and set out for Khartoum, in 1884, to -rescue the garrisons of the Soudan. He did brave things, but the bravest -portion of his story is when this earnest-minded man lives among these -lost people, and has to endure seeing his subjects robbed and despoiled -whenever any officer apprehends scarcity and resolves upon a raiding -expedition. He knows exactly what will happen; he knows there will be -indiscriminate shooting and looting, he knows there will be destruction -of villages and decimation of the owners; that with the captive herds -there will be long files of captive women and children, and a -distribution of the spoil; and yet he dares do nothing to thwart these -cruel and hard proceedings. How can he? He has no cloth or money to buy -food for all his people. What answer can he make when they demand of him -what they must do to live? Though the soil is gracious and repays -labour, it is useless for him to point to it. They will grow cotton to -clothe themselves, and cultivate gardens for kitchen vegetables, because -no native understands these things; but grain for bread, and cattle for -beef, the natives must yield to people nobler than themselves. He is the -only man who can think of this work as a wrong, and as he has no force -to compel men to think otherwise, he must needs endure this evil as he -endures many others. Good government was therefore impossible. It was -founded on blood and spoliation from the very beginning, and, like all -other Governments which preceded it, that were created with similar -views, it was decreed that it should perish utterly. - -As a fitting conclusion to this chapter, I append the following -documents received from Sir Francis Grenfell, the Sirdar of Egypt. Those -who love to trace effects to causes may find in these documents -criminating proofs of that intercourse with the enemy which was -maintained by the rebel officers. They explain what I have asserted. -They prove conclusively that their object in proceeding to the Pasha at -Tunguru, and imploring his forgiveness, promising to reinstate him in -power, and begging him to introduce them to me, was for the purpose -consummating the vile plot of betraying us into the hands of the -Mahdists. Thanks to Jephson, who was "a chiel takin' notes," and to the -clumsiness of their acts, Omar Saleh did not have the satisfaction of -conveying that "other traveller who had come to Emin," and whom he was -so anxious to catch, for exhibition at Khartoum--which he may possibly -regret more than I. - - LETTER FROM OSMAN DIGNA TO THE GOVERNOR-GENERAL, SUAKIM. - - "In the name of the Great God, &c. - - "This is from Osman Digna to the Christian who is Governor of - Suakim. Let me inform you that some time ago Rundle sent me a - letter asking me of the man who was Governor in the Equatorial - Provinces. On the arrival of the said letter in our hands I sent it - at once to the Khalifa, on whom be peace, &c. The Khalifa has sent - me the answer, and has informed me that the said Governor of the - Equator has fallen into our hands, and is now one of the followers - of the Mahdi. The Khalifa sent steamers to the Equator, commanded - by one of our chiefs, named Omar Saleh. They reached Lado, and on - their arrival they found that the troops of the said Governor, who - were composed of military men and officers, had seized the - Governor, with a traveller who was with him. They put them in - chains and delivered them into the hands of our chief. Now all the - province is in our hands, and the inhabitants have submitted to the - Mahdi. We have taken the arms and ammunition which were there; we - also brought the officers and chief clerk to the Khalifa, who - received them kindly, and now they are staying with him. They have - handed to him all their banners. - - "Therefore, as Rundle wishes to know what has become of this - Governor, you tell him of this message. - - "I enclose a copy of the letter which our chief in the Equator sent - to the Khalifa, and also a copy of that which Tewfik had sent to - the said Governor. - - "I also send you a dozen rounds of the ammunition, which were - brought from the Equator. I praise God for the defeat of the - unbeliever, and defeat of the infidels. - -"Sealed" - - - - -"The ammunition sent was Snider ammunition, marked 1869, and is in very -good condition. Two letters were enclosed. The first of these is -recognised by his Excellency the Sirdar as being the one given to Mr. -Stanley by his Highness the Khedive on his departure from Cairo." - -"The second is a copy of a letter of Omar Saleh to the Khalifa, dated -15th October, 1888, and is as follows:-- - - "We proceeded with the steamers and army, and reached the town of - Lado, where Emin, the Mudir of the Equator, is staying, on the 5th - Safar, 1306 (10th October, 1888). We must thank the officers and - men who made this conquest easy, for they had seized Emin and a - traveller who was staying with him, and put them both in chains, - refusing to go to Egypt with the Turks. - - "Tewfik had sent to Emin one of the travellers; his name is Mr. - Stanley. This Mr. Stanley brought with him a letter from Tewfik to - Emin, dated 8th Gamad Awal (the date of the Khedive's letter), - telling him to come with Mr. Stanley, and give the rest of the - force the option of coming with him or remaining here, as they - please. - - "The force refused the Turkish orders, and received us gladly. I - have found a great deal of ivory and feathers. I am sending with - this the officers and Chief Clerk on board the _Bordein_, commanded - by Mohammed Kheir. I am also sending the letter which came from - Tewfik to Emin, together with the banners we took from the Turks. - - "I have heard that there is another traveller who came to Emin. I - am looking out for him, and if he returns I am sure to catch him. - - "All the chiefs of the Province, with the inhabitants, are - delighted to see us. I have taken all the arms and ammunition. When - you have seen the officers and Chief Clerk, and given them the - necessary instructions, please send them back, as they will be of - great use to me." - - True copy. - -(Sd.) T. R. WINGATE. -Kaim. -A. A. G. Intell. - -W. O. -15/1/90. - - - - - - - -CHAPTER XXVIII. - -TO THE ALBERT EDWARD NYANZA. - - - Description of the road from Bundegunda--We get a good view of the - twin peaks in the Ruwenzori range--March to Utinda--The Pasha's - officers abuse the officer in command: which compels a severe - order--Kaibuga urges hostilities against Uhobo--Brush with the - enemy: Casati's servant, Akili, killed--Description of the - Ruwenzori range as seen from Nboga--Mr. Jephson still an - invalid--The little stowaway named Tukabi--Captain Nelson examines - the Semliki for a suitable ferry--We reach the Semliki river: - description of the same--Uledi and Saat Tato swim across the river - for a canoe--A band of Wara Sura attack us--All safely ferried - across the river--In the Awamba forest--Our progress to - Baki-kundi--We come across a few Baundwe, forest aborigines--The - Egyptians and their followers--Conversation with Emin - Pasha--Unexplored parts of Africa--Abundance of food--Ruwenzori - from the spur of Ugarama--Two native women give us local - information--We find an old man at Batuma--At Bukoko we encounter - some Manyuema raiders: their explanation--From Bakokoro we arrive - at Mtarega, the foot of the Ruwenzori range--Lieut. Stairs with - some men explore the Mountains of the Moon--Report of Lieut. - Stairs' experiences--The Semliki valley--The Rami-lulu valley--The - perfection of a tropical forest--Villages in the clearing of - Ulegga--Submission of a Ukonju chief--Local knowledge from our - friends the Wakonju--Description of the Wakonju tribe--The Semliki - river--View of Ruwenzori from Mtsora--We enter Muhamba, and next - day camp at Karimi--Capture of some fat cattle of Rukara's--The - Zeriba of Rusesse--Our first view of Lake Albert Edward Nyanza. - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -May 9. - -Bundegunda.] - -The road to the south, which we now pursued on moving from Bundegunda on -the 9th May, skirted the western base of that great bulk of mountain -land inhabited by the Balegga, and the Bandussuma of Mazamboni. It -crosses cultivated tracts devoted to beans and luxuriant sweet potatoes, -yams, colocassia, and sugar-cane; it is hedged thickly with glorious -plantains; it is flanked by humble villages, with cone roofs; it is -buried under miniature wildernesses of reedy cane; it dips down to -clear, limpid rillets, just escaped from the bosom of the tall mountains -soaring above; it winds in snaky curves over rich flats of pasture; it -runs close to the foot of steep slopes, and then starts off along -smoothly-descending spurs. About five miles off to the westward, or on -our right hand, the forest, black as night, keeps company with us. We -are seldom out of sight of the advancing capes and receding bays of the -dark, eternal mass. On our left, in intimate neighbourhood, rise the -mighty slopes, steeply receding upward into the greyish blue of an -uncertain sky, and far away, in solemn lines, like a colossal battalion -of mountains, is ranged the series between each of which are deep -ravines, narrow and far-reaching recessions, formed by -ceaselessly-murmuring streams. - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -May 10. - -Utinda.] - -On the morning of this day, Ruwenzori came out from its mantle of clouds -and vapours, and showed its groups of peaks and spiny ridges resplendent -with shining white snow; the blue beyond was as that of ocean--a -purified and spotless translucence. Far to the west, like huge double -epaulettes, rose the twin peaks which I had seen in December, 1887, and -from the sunk ridge below the easternmost rose sharply the dominating -and unsurpassed heights of Ruwenzori proper, a congregation of hoary -heads, brilliant in white raiment; and away to the east extended a -roughened ridge, like a great vertebra--peak and saddle, isolated mount -and hollow, until it passed out of sight behind the distant extremities -of the range we were then skirting. And while in constant view of it, as -I sat up in the hide hammock suspended between two men, my plan of our -future route was sketched. For to the west of the twin peaks, Ruwenzori -range either dropped suddenly into a plain or sheered away S.S.W. What I -saw was either an angle of a mass or the western extremity. We would -aim for the base of the twin peaks, and pursue our course southerly to -lands unknown, along the base-line. The guides--for we had many -now--pointed with their spears vaguely, and cried out "Ukonju" and -(giving a little dab into the air with their spear-points) "Usongora," -meaning that Ukonju was what we saw, and beyond it lay Usongora, -invisible. - -After halting at Ujungwa we rose next day to march to Utinda, seven -miles off. The valley between the Balegga Mountains and the forest -seemed to narrow, and the path threatened to take us into troublous -depths of spear-grass brakes and fens nourishing reed-cane, when, after -crossing the Chai and Aturo streams, and several gushing rivulets, it -ran up a lengthy spur of the Balegga Mountains, and took us to a height -of 500 feet above the valley. - -From this altitude we observed that we had narrowly escaped being buried -in the forest again, for it had advanced behind the spur right across -the valley, and occupied every inch of lowland. Within its sombre depths -the Chai and Aturo rivers and other streams united their currents to -form a respectable tributary of the Ituri river. - -A little to our left, as we looked south, was a deep basin parted into -numerous small arable plots, appertaining to the district of Utinda. -Every ravine and hollow seemed choked by long, straggling plantations of -plantain and banana. The beans and Indian corn were late, for they were -not more than five inches high, while at Bundegunda the crops were quite -four feet high and in flower. - -The Egyptians reached camp four hours after the advance guard, and the -officer in charge of the rear complained bitterly of the abuse that he -had received from the Pasha's officers, some of them jeering at him, -making mouths, and daring him to drive them along, which compelled me to -issue the following order:-- - - "Whereas the Expedition must necessarily proceed slowly, and - shorten its marches, owing to the promise that we have given Selim - Bey, and to the fact that the Egyptians, the Soudanese and their - followers are as yet unaccustomed to hard travel and fatigue, and - to the fact that I, their guide, am physically too weak to endure - more than two or three hours' exertion of any kind, the officers - will please exercise the greatest patience and forbearance, but - they must on no account forget the duties peculiar to the - rear-guard. They will permit no straggling by the wayside, no - looting of villages, no indiscriminate pillaging of plantations, no - marauding upon any excuse; and upon any insolence, whether from - Egyptian officer, private soldier, or follower, the officer in - charge will call his guard and bind the offender, and bring him to - me for punishment. If any violence is offered it must be met by - such violence as will instantly crush it." - -[Illustration: RUWENZORI, FROM KAVALLI'S.] - -From the basin of Utinda we ascended past a few cones dominating a ridge -which enclosed it on the south and south-east, and, after surmounting -two other ridges separated by well-watered valleys, we arrived on the -airy upland of grassy Uhobo, 4,900 feet above sea-level. A little later -Kaibuga entered into our camp. This chief was of the Wahuma settled -among the Balegga, whose grounds overlooked the plain of Kavalli and the -south end of the Nyanza, and whose territory extended to the debouchure -of the Semliki. He urged active hostilities, as Uhobo belonged to Kabba -Rega. Naturally we smiled at this, as we had not seen the semblance of a -single enemy, though it is true that the Uhobo natives had disappeared -from view at our approach. At this instant a picquet signalled the -advance of a column of Kabba Rega's people armed with guns, and two -companies of Zanzibaris were mustered by Lieutenant Stairs and Captain -Nelson, the latter of whom had so improved by the diet of Kavalli and -Mazamboni that he was fit for any work. - -After proceeding about two miles they met the small party of the Pasha's -people carrying the dead body of Captain Casati's faithful servant -Okili, for whom Casati entertained deep affection. He had been shot -through the forehead by a rifle-ball. It appears that while the -Soudanese had been bathing in a stream south of Uhobo, the column of the -Wara Sura happened to be observed marching in a pretty disciplined -manner with two flags towards them, and a few minutes later would have -surprised them, but the whole party hastily dressed, and, snatching -their rifles, opened fire on them. Three of the enemy fell dead, and -Okili was shot by the fire that was returned. On the approach of the -Zanzibaris the Wara Sura fled, and were pursued for three miles, but no -further casualties occurred. - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -May 12. - -Mboga.] - -A severe rainstorm, lasting seven hours, fell during the night, and in -the morning when marching to Mboga we were involved in cloud and mist. -As the day advanced, however, Ruwenzori thrust its immense body into -view far above the vapours rising from the low Semliki Valley, and every -now and then the topmost cones gathered the cloudy fleeces and veiled -their white heads from view. As we advanced nearer each day to the range -we were surprised that we were not able to discover so much snow as we -had seen at Kavalli, but on reflection it became evident that the line -of snow became obscured from view by an advanced ridge, which the nearer -we approached impeded the view the more. We observed also that the lofty -mountain range assumed the form of a crescent; Ajif Mountain forming the -northern end and the Twin Peak shoulder to the west the other end; and -further, that beyond Ajif, which I estimated at about 6,000 feet above -the sea, there was a steady and perceptible rise to the snow line, and -then a sudden uplift to the proud height of from 2,000 to 5,000 feet -higher, most of which was under snow. - -This place of Mboga, were it in any other country than under the Equator -in Mid Africa, would afford a splendid view of this unique range. From -the Twin Peak angle and up to thirty miles N.N.E. of Ajif the whole of -it ought to be in sight in any other clime, but the mist escapes in -continuous series or strata from the valley beneath, and floats in -fleeting evanescent masses, quite obscuring every other minute the -entire outlines. Between this point and the Ruwenzori range lies the -deep sunken valley of the Semliki, from twelve to twenty-five miles -wide. From a point abreast of Mboga to the edge of the Lake the first -glance of it suggests a lake. Indeed, the officers supposed it to be the -Albert Lake, and the Soudanese women were immoderately joyous at the -sight, and relieved their feelings by shrill lu-lu-lus; but a binocular -revealed pale brown grass in its sere, with tiny bushes dotting the -plain. To our right, as we looked down the depth of 2,500 feet, there -was a dark tongue of acacia bushes deepening into blackness as the -forest, which we had left near the Chai River, usurped the entire -breadth of the valley. - -Mr. Jephson was still an invalid, with a fever which varied from 102 deg. to -105 deg. temperature, ever since the 23rd of April, and at this time he was -in rather an anxious state of mind. Like myself, he was much shrunk, and -we both looked ill. We halted on the 13th to give rest to invalids and -the little children. - -To Kiryama, on the 14th, a village situated near the mouth of a deep and -narrow valley, and which in old times, when Lake Albert covered the -grassy plain and must have been a somewhat picturesque inlet, we made a -continuous descent by declining spurs. The soil of the valley was -extremely rich, and a copious stream coursed through it to the Semliki. -We obtained, at brief intervals, glimpses of Ruwenzori; but had the mist -not been so tantalising it would not have been deemed an unwelcome view -that we should have had of the magnificent and imposing altitude of -15,500 feet above us. - -In the camp of the immense caravan a little boy about eleven years old, -named Tukabi, was found. He was what is termed "a stowaway." While we -were at Mazamboni, his father, a subject of Kavalli, had come to appeal -for help to recover him. He had attached himself to some Zanzibaris. The -boy was delivered up, and his father was charged to observe the young -truant carefully. He had disguised himself with some cloth to cover his -face, but as he passed my tent I recognised him. He was asked why he -deserted his father to join strangers who might be unkind to him. -"Because," he answered, "I prefer my friend to my father." "Does your -father beat you?" "No, but I wish to see the place where these guns come -from, and where the thunder medicine (gunpowder) is made." It was the -first time in my experience that an African boy of such a tender age was -known to voluntarily abandon his parents. He was a singularly bright -little fellow, with very intelligent eyes, and belonged to the Wahuma -race. - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -May 14. - -Kiryama.] - -Captain Nelson was despatched to proceed to the Semliki River with 80 -rifles, to examine what opportunities there might be for crossing the -river. He returned after a brilliant march, and reported that the -Semliki at the ferry was about eighty or ninety yards wide, swift and -deep, with steep banks of from ten to twenty feet high, much subject to -undermining by the river; that the canoes had all been removed by -Ravidongo, the General of Kabba Rega, who was said to have gathered a -large force to oppose our crossing, and also that all the natives of -Uhobo, Mboga, and Kiryama districts, were collected across the Semliki -River with him, and that it was clear a stout resistance would be made, -as the opposite banks were carefully watched; that while they were -examining the river a volley had been fired at them, which was -fortunately harmless. - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -May 17. - -Awamba.] - -After a two days' rest at Kiryama we marched south across the grassy -plain to another ferry led by Kaibuga. That which some of us had assumed -to be a lake was very firm alluvium and lacustrine deposit, growing a -thin crop of innutritious grass, about 18 inches high. As we advanced up -the river it sensibly improved; and at the third hour from Kiryama an -acacia tree was seen; a little later there were five, then a dozen, wide -apart and stunted. At the fourth hour it was quite a thin forest on the -left side of the Semliki, while to the right it was a thick impervious -and umbrageous tropic forest, and suddenly we were on the bank of the -Semliki. At the point we touched the river it was sixty yards wide, with -between a four and five-knot current. A little below it widened into 100 -yards, a fine, deep, and promising river. Up and down, and opposite, -there were broad signs of recent land falls. Its banks consisted of -sediment and gravelly debris which could offer no resistance to the -strong current when it surged against the base. It washed away great -masses from underneath. There was a continual falling of dissolving -lumps, as though it was so much snow; then a sudden fall of a two-ton -fragment of the superincumbent bank. It was a loopy, and twisting, -crooked stream, forming a wide-stretching S in every mile of its course, -and its water was of a whitey-brown colour, and weighted with sediment. -Out of a tumblerful of the liquid, a fourth of an inch of fine earth -would be deposited. - -By a good aneroid the altitude of the bank, which was about twenty feet -above the river, was 2,388 feet above the sea. Lake Albert by the same -aneroid was 2,350 feet. There was a difference indicated of 38 feet. I -estimated that we were about thirty English miles from the lake. - -As we arrived at the river a canoe was observed floating down rapidly. -The alarm had been given, probably, by some natives who had heard our -voices, and in their hurry to escape had either purposely cast off their -canoe, or had feared to be detained through the necessity of securing -it. The village of the Awamba, whence it had floated adrift, was in -sight. Men were sent up and down the banks to discover a canoe, and -Uledi--always Uledi--sent up soon the good news that he had found one. -The caravan proceeded in his direction, and camped in a large but -abandoned banana plantation. The canoe was across the river in a small -creek, opposite the camping place. By some method it was necessary to -obtain it, as one canoe at this time was priceless. The men with the -bill-hooks were ordered up to clear twenty yards of bush, and to leave a -thin screen between the sharpshooters and the river. Then three or four -volleys scoured the position around the canoe, and in the meantime the -bold Uledi and Saat Tato, the hunter, swam across, and when near the -vessel the firing ceased. In a few seconds they had cut the canoe loose, -and were in it, paddling across to our side with all energy. They had -gained the centre of the river when the archers rose up and shot the -hunter, and at the same time the rifles blazed across. But the canoe was -obtained, and Saat Tato, streaming with blood, was attended by Dr. -Parke. Fortunately, the broad-bladed arrow had struck the shoulder -blade, which saved the vitals. Both the brave fellows were rewarded with -$20 worth of cloth on the spot. - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -May 18. - -Awamba.] - -At 5 P.M. Mr. Bonny performed signal service. He accepted the mission of -leading five Soudanese across the Semliki as the vanguard of the -Expedition. By sunset there were fifty rifles across the river. - -[Illustration: ATTACK BY THE WANYORO AT SEMLIKI FERRY.] - -On the 18th the ferriage was resumed at dawn. By noon two more canoes -had been discovered by scouts. Staits and Jephson were both very ill of -fever, and I was a prematurely old man of ninety in strength and -appearance and just able to walk at this time about one hundred yards. -Captain Nelson and Surgeon Parke therefore superintended the work of -transporting the Expedition across the Semliki. At two o'clock in the -afternoon, while the ferrying was briskly proceeding, a body of fifty of -the Wara Sura stole up to within 250 yards of the ferry, and fired a -volley at the canoes while in mid-river. Iron slugs and lead bullets -screamed over the heads of the passengers, and flew along the face of -the water, but fortunately there was no harm done. Notwithstanding our -admiration at their impudent audacity, a second volley might be more -effective, but Captain Nelson sprang from the river-side, and a hundred -rifles gathered around him and a chase began. We heard a good deal of -volleying, but the chase and retreat were so hot that not a bullet found -its purposed billet. However, the Wara Sura discovered that, whatever -our intentions might be, we were in strong force, and we understood that -they were capable of contriving mischief. In their hurried flight they -dropped several as well-made cartridges as could be prepared at -Woolwich; and here was a proof also what a nest of traitors there was in -the Equatorial Province, for all these articles were of course furnished -by the scores of deserters. - -By night of the 18th, 669 people had been ferried across. At 3 o'clock -of the 19th, 1,168 men, women and children, 610 loads of baggage, 3 -canoe loads of sheep and goats, and 235 head of cattle had been taken -across. The only loss sustained was a calf, which was drowned. It may he -imagined how pleased I was at the brilliant services, activity and care -shown by Captain Nelson and Dr. Parke. - -A few hours later one of the Pasha's followers was taken to the surgeon -with a fatal arrow-wound. It reminded me of the anxious times I -suffered, during the first eighteen months' experiences with the equally -thoughtless Zanzibaris. - -On the 20th the Expedition moved through the thick forest, along an -extremely sloughy path to a little village removed one and a half hours -from the river. We arrived just as the intolerable pests of gnats were -at their liveliest. They swarmed into the eyes, nostrils, and ears, in -myriads. We thought the uninhabited forest was preferable, but at 9 -o'clock the minute tribes retired to rest, and ceased to vex us. There -was an odour of stale banana wine and ripe banana refuse, and these -probably had attracted the gnats. Two large troughs--equal in size to -small canoes--were stationed in the village, in which the natives -pressed the ripe fruit and manufactured their wine. - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -May 20. - -Awamba.] - -For the first time we discovered that the Awamba, whose territory we -were now in, understood the art of drying bananas over wooden gratings, -for the purpose of making flour. We had often wondered, during our life -in the forest region, that natives did not appear to have discovered -what invaluable, nourishing, and easily digestible food they possessed -in the plantain and banana. All banana lands--Cuba, Brazil, West -Indies--seem to me to have been specially remiss on this point. If only -the virtues of the flour were publicly known, it is not to be doubted -but it would be largely consumed in Europe. For infants, persons of -delicate digestion, dyspeptics, and those suffering from temporary -derangements of the stomach, the flour, properly prepared, would be of -universal demand. During my two attacks of gastritis, a light gruel of -this, mixed with milk, was the only matter that could be digested. - -On the 22nd we were obliged to march for six hours through quagmire and -reeking mud before we were enabled to find a resting-place. The dense -forest, while as purely tropical in its luxuriance as any we had -travelled, was more discomforting owing to its greater heat and -over-abundant moisture. The excessive humidity revealed itself in a -thin, opaque, damp haze just above us. In the tree-tops it had already -gathered into a mist; above them it was a cloud; so that between us and -sunshine we had clouds several miles in thickness, the thick, dark, -matted foliage of the forest, then thickening layers of mist, and -finally a haze of warm vapour. We therefore picked our way through -shallow pool and gluey black mud, under a perpetual dropping of -condensed vapour, and by a leaden light that would encourage thoughts of -suicide, while bodily distress was evinced by trickling rillets of -perspiration. - -Emerging into a ruined village, the result of some late raid of the Wara -Sura, we threw looks towards Ruwenzori, but the old mountain had -disappeared under blue-black clouds that reminded one of brooding -tempests. The heights of Mboga were dimly visible, though they were -further from us than the stupendous mass behind which the thunder -muttered, and whence rain seemed imminent. We began to realize that we -were in the centre of a great fermenting vat, and that the exhalations -growing out of it concentrated themselves into clouds, and that the -latter hung in ever-thickening folds until they floated against the face -of Ruwenzori; that they languidly ascended the slants and clung to the -summits, until a draught of wind over the snow-crests blew them away and -cleared the view. - -We passed through an extremely populous district the next day, and -travelled only two and a quarter hours to reach Baki Kundi. Flanking the -path were familiar features, such as several camps of pigmies, who were -here called Watwa. - -The distance from the Semliki to these villages wherein we were now -encamped is 15-1/2 English miles, which we had taken three days to travel, -and two days' halt in consequence. But slow as this was, and supplied as -was the caravan with running streams of good water and unlimited -quantities of meat and grain, potatoes, plantains, and ripe fruit, the -misery of African travel had been realised to its depths. Mothers had -left their little children on the road, and one Egyptian soldier, named -Hamdan, had laid down by the wayside and stubbornly refused to move, -unwilling to pursue the journey of life further. He had no load to -carry, he was not sick, but he--what can be said? He belonged to the -donkey breed of humanity; he could not travel, but he could die, and the -rear-guard were obliged to leave him. This started a rumour through the -camp that the commander of the rear-guard had quietly despatched him. - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -May 24. - -Baki-Kundi.] - -The 24th of May was a halt, and we availed ourselves of it to despatch -two companies to trace the paths, that I might obtain a general idea -which would best suit our purposes. One company took a road leading -slightly east of south, and suddenly came across a few Baundwe, whom we -knew for real forest aborigines. This was in itself a discovery, for we -had supposed we were still in Utuku, as the east side of the Semliki is -called, and which is under Kabba Rega's rule. The language of the -Baundwe was new, but they understood a little Kinyoro, and by this means -we learned that Ruwenzori was known to them as Bugombowa, and that the -Watwa pigmies and the Wara Sura were their worst enemies, and that the -former were scattered through the woods to the W.S.W. - -The other company travelled in a S. by W. direction, reached the thin -line of open country that divided the immediate base-line of Ruwenzori -from the forest. They spoke in raptures of the abundance of food, but -stated that the people were hostile and warlike. The arms of the men -were similar to those of other forest people, but the women were -distinguished for iron collars, to which were suspended small -phial-shaped pendants of hollow iron, besides those ending in fine -spiral coils at the extremities. - -[Illustration: HOUSES ON THE EDGE OF THE FOREST.] - -Another short march of two and a quarter hours brought us to a village -of thirty-nine round, conical huts, which possessed elaborate doorways, -here and there ornamented with triangles painted red and black. The -_Elais gunieensis_ palm was very numerous near the village. - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -May 25. - -Ugarama.] - -On the next day we emerged out of the forest, and camped in the strip -of grass-land in the village of Ugarama, in N. lat. 0 deg. 45' 49" and E. -long. 30 deg. 14' 45". The path had led along the crests of a narrow, wooded -spur, with ravines 200 feet deep on either hand, buried by giant trees. -The grass-land here did not produce that short nutritive quality which -made Kavalli so pleasant, but was of gigantic spear-grasses, from 6 to -15 feet high. - -The Egyptian Hamdan made his reappearance at this camp. Left to himself -he had probably discovered it hard to die alone in the lonely woods, and -had repented of his folly. By this time we had become fully sensible of -the difficulty we should meet each day while these people were under our -charge. Low as was my estimation of them before, it had descended far -below zero now. Words availed nothing, reason could not penetrate their -dense heads. Their custom was to rush at early dawn along the path, and -after an hour's spurt sit down, dawdle, light a fire, and cook, and -smoke, and gossip; then, when the rear-guard came up to urge them along, -assume sour and discontented looks, and mutter to themselves of the -cruelty of the infidels. Almost every day complaints reached me from -them respecting Captain Nelson and Lieutenant Stairs. Either one or the -other was reported for being exacting and too peremptory. It was tedious -work to get them to comprehend that they were obeying orders; that their -sole anxiety was to save them from being killed by the natives, or from -losing their way; that the earlier they reached camp the better for -everybody; that marches of two or three hours would not kill a child -even; that while it was our duty to be careful of their lives, it was -also our duty to have some regard for the Zanzibaris, who, instead of -being two or three hours on the road were obliged to be ten hours, with -boxes on their heads; that it was my duty also to see that the white -officers were not worn out by being exposed to the rain, and mud, and -shivering damp, waiting on people who would not see the benefit of -walking four or five miles quickly to camp to enjoy twenty to twenty-one -hours' rest out of the twenty-four. These whining people, who were -unable to walk empty-handed two and a half or three hours per day, were -yellow Egyptians; a man with a little black pigment in his skin seldom -complained, the extreme black and the extreme white never. - -The Egyptians and their followers had such a number of infants and young -children that when the camp space was at all limited, as on a narrow -spur, sleep was scarcely possible. These wee creatures must have -possessed irascible natures, for such obstinate and persistent -caterwauling never tormented me before. The tiny blacks and sallow -yellows rivalled one another with force of lung until long past -midnight, then about 3 or 4 A.M. started afresh, woke everyone from -slumber, while grunts of discontent at the meeawing chorus would be -heard from every quarter. - -[Illustration: EGYPTIAN WOMEN AND CHILDREN.] - -Our Zanzibaris concluded that though the people of Equatoria might be -excellent breeders, they were very poor soldiers. The Egyptians had been -so long accustomed to overawe the natives of the Province by their -numbers and superior arms, that now their number was somewhat reduced -and overmatched by natives, they appeared to be doubtful of reaching -peaceful countries; but they were so undisciplined, and yet so -imperious, they would speedily convert the most peaceful natives to -rancorous foes. - -With the Pasha I had a conversation on this date, and I became fully -aware that, though polite, he yet smarted under resentment for the -explosion of April 5th. But the truth is that the explosion was -necessary and unavoidable. Our natures were diametrically opposed. So -long as there was no imperative action in prospect we should have been -both capable of fully enjoying one another's society. He was learned and -industrious and a gentleman, and I could admire and appreciate his -merits. But the conditions of our existence prohibited a too prolonged -indulgence in these pleasures. We had not been commissioned to pass our -days in Equatoria in scientific talk, nor to hold a protracted -conversazione on Lake Albert. The time had come, as appointed, to begin -a forward movement. It was not effected without that episode in the -square at Kavalli. Now that we were on the journey I discovered to my -regret that there were other causes for friction. The Pasha was devoured -with a desire to augment his bird collections, and thought that, having -come so far to help him, we might "take it easy." "But we are taking it -easy for manifold reasons. The little children, the large number of -women burdened with infants, the incapable Egyptians, the hope that -Selim Bey will overtake us, the feeble condition of Jephson and myself, -and Stairs is far from strong." "Well, then, take it more easy." "We -have done so; a mile and a half per day is surely easy going." "Then be -easier still." "Heavens, Pasha, do you wish us to stay here altogether? -Then let us make our wills, and resign ourselves to die with our work -undone." The thunder was muttering again, as behind the dark clouds on -Ruwenzori, and another explosion was imminent. - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -May 26. - -Ugarama.] - -I knew he was an ardent collector of birds and reptiles and insects, but -I did not know that it was a mania with him. He would slay every bird in -Africa; he would collect ugly reptiles, and every hideous insect; he -would gather every skull until we should become a travelling museum and -cemetery, if only carriers could be obtained. But then his people were -already developing those rabid ulcers, syphilis had weakened their -constitutions, a puncture of a thorn in the face grew into a horrid and -sloughy sore; they had pastured on vice and were reaping the -consequences. The camps soon became so filthy that they would breed a -pestilence, and we should soon become a moving sight to gods and men. -Carriers were dying--they were not well treated--and then, why then, we -could not move at all by-and-by. He was in Heaven when his secretary, -Rajab Effendi, brought him new species; he looked grateful when there -was to be a two days' rest, sad when he heard we should march; and when -we should reach a nice place near Ruwenzori, we should stay a week, oh, -splendid! - -Now, all this made me feel as if we were engaged in a most ungrateful -task. As long as life lasts, he will hold me in aversion, and his -friends, the Felkins, the Junkers, and Schweinfurths will listen to -querulous complaints, but they will never reflect that work in this -world must not consist entirely of the storage in museums of skulls, and -birds, and insects; that the continent of Africa was never meant by the -all-bounteous Creator to be merely a botanical reserve, or an -entomological museum. - -Every man I saw, giant or dwarf, only deepened the belief that Africa -had other claims on man, and every feature of the glorious land only -impressed me the more that there was a crying need for immediate relief -and assistance from civilisation; that first of all, roads of iron must -be built, and that fire and water were essential agencies for transport, -more especially on this long-troubled continent than on any other. - -Alas! alas! With this grand mountain range within a stone's throw of our -camp--not yet outlined on my map--that other lake we heard so much about -from Kaibuga, our Mhuma chief, not yet discovered, the Semliki Valley, -with its treasures of woods and vegetable productions, not yet explored, -and the Semliki River, which was said to connect the upper with the -lower lake, not yet traced. To hear about wonderful salt lakes that -might supply the world with salt; of large-bodied Wazongora, and numbers -of amiable tribes; of the mysterious Wanyavingi, who were said to be -descended from white men; to be in the neighbourhood of colossal -mountains topped with snow, which I believed to be the lost Mountains of -the Moon; to be in a land which could boast of possessing the fabulous -fountains de la lune, a veritable land of marvel and mystery, a land of -pigmies and tall men reported from of old, and not feel a glad desire to -search into the truth of these sayings. He--the Maker who raised those -eternal mountains and tapestried their slopes with the mosses, and -lichens, and tender herbs, and divided them by myriads of watercourses -for the melted snow to run into the fruitful valley, and caused that -mighty, limitless forest to clothe it, and its foliage to shine with -unfading lustre--surely intended that it should be reserved until the -fulness of time for something higher than a nursery for birds and a -store-place for reptiles. - -The abundance of food in this region was one of the most remarkable -features in it. Ten battalions would have needed no commissary to -provide their provisions. We had but to pluck and eat. Our scouts -reported that on every hand lay plantations abounding in the heaviest -clusters of fruit. The native granaries were full of red millet, the -huts were stored with Indian corn; in the neighbouring garden plots were -yams, sweet potatoes, colocassia, tobacco. - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -May 27. - -Ugarama.] - -From the spur of Ugarama, where we halted on the 27th, we could see that -up to 8,000 feet of the slopes they were dotted with several scores of -cultivated plots, and that the crooked lines of ravines were green with -lengthy banana groves, and that upland and lowland teemed with -population and food, and other products. Through a glass we were able to -note that a thick forest covered the upper slopes and ridges, with an -elevation of 9,000 up to 12,000 feet; and that where there was no -cultivation the woods continued down to the base. The wild banana was -seen flourishing up to a lofty limit, and graced the slopes denuded of -trees, and towered over the tallest grass. The Ruwenzori peaks appeared -shrouded by leaden clouds, and the lower mountain ranges played at -hide-and-seek under the drifting and shifting masses of white vapour. By -aneroid, Ugarama is 2,994 feet; and by boiling point, 2,942 feet above -the sea. The immediate range, under whose lee the spur ran out to -Ugarama village, was, by triangulation, discovered to be of an altitude -of 9,147 feet. - -Two women--light-complexioned and very pleasing--who were found in the -woods near the village, were able to speak the Kinyoro language. It was -from them we learned that we were in Ugarama, in the country of Awamba; -that Utuku was a name given to the open country up to the Mississi River -and the Lake; that the next district we should reach southerly was -Bukoko, where the principal Chief, Sibaliki, of the Awamba, lived; and -beyond Bukoko was Butama. That from Ugarama to the north extremity of -Bukonju or Ukonju, was one day's march; that two days thence would take -us to Toro, but we should have to cross the mountains; that the king of -N. Ukonju was called Ruhandika; that the Wakonju formerly owned vast -herds of cattle, but the Wara Sura had swept the herds away. We were -also told that if we followed the base line of the big mountains, three -days' march would enable us to reach a country of short grass, wherein -goats and sheep were plentiful, and wherein there were a few herds of -cattle; but the Wara Sura had raided so many times there that cattle -could not be kept. The enemies of the Awamba, who cut down the woods and -tilled the ground, were the vicious Watwa pigmies, who made their lives -miserable by robbing their plantations, and destroying small parties -while at work, or proceeding to market in adjoining districts, while -the Wara Sura devastated far and near, and they were in the service of -Kabba Rega. - -When asked if they ever enjoyed days of sunshine and the snow mountains -could be seen clear and bright for three or four days, or a week, or a -month, they replied that they had never witnessed so much rain as at -this time; and they believed that we had purposely caused this in order -the more easily to detect people by the tracks along the paths. They -also said that at first they had taken us for Wara Sura; but the large -herd of cattle with us disproved that we had taken them from the Awamba, -for they possessed none. When we informed them that we had seized them -from people who acknowledged Kabba Rega as their chief, they said: "Oh, -if our people but knew that, they would bring you everything." "Well, -then, you shall go and tell them that we are friends to everyone who -will not close the road. We are going to a far country, and, as we -cannot fly, we must use the path; but we never hurt those who do not -raise the spear and draw the bow." - -On the 28th we advanced five miles over a series of spurs, and across -deep ravines, continuous descents of 200 feet to ravines a few yards -across, and opposite ascensions, to a similar height. They were so steep -that we were either sliding, or climbing by means of the trees and -creepers depending from them; and all this under an unceasing, drizzly -rain. The rotting banana stalks and refuse of the fruit created a -sickening stench. - -The next day's march of four miles enabled us to reach Butama, after an -experience as opposite to the sloughs, mud, rock, descents and ascents -of the day before, as a fine path, broad enough for an European's -wide-stepping feet, could well be in Africa. The sandy loam quickly -absorbed the rain; the rank reed-grass, except at rare intervals, -afforded a sufficient space between, and troops of elephants had tramped -the ground hard. - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -May 29. - -Butama.] - -An old man, with white hair, and too feeble to flee, had awaited his -fate at Butama. On being questioned, he replied that the name of the -snow mountains that now were immediately above us at an appalling -height, was "Avirika, Aviruka, Avrika, Avruka, Avirika, and Avuruka!" so -he rang the changes by pressure of eager questions which he had excited -by its relation to Afrika. Upon the Watwa pigmies he was most severe. He -charged them with being exceedingly treacherous; that they were in the -habit of making friends with chiefs of rich districts by fraudful arts -and false professions, and, despite blood-brotherhood, and plighted -faith, of suddenly turning upon them and destroying them. - -On the 30th we reached Bukoko in four hours' easy travel, for we marched -over a smooth graduated terrace formed by the debris rolled down the -slopes of the snow mountain, and scoured by repeated falls of rain to a -gentle slope, luxuriant with reed-grass, and wonderfully prolific in -edibles, where cultivated. Here and there cropped out a monster boulder, -half imbedded in the loam and gravelly soil, which had rolled and -thundered wildly down when displaced by some landslip, or detached from -its resting-place by a torrential shower. - -Bukoko was a large and powerful settlement and an important cluster of -villages; but it struck us as we entered it that it had been for several -days abandoned, probably as long ago as a month. Its groves seemed -endless and most thriving, and weighted with fruit, and tomatoes grew in -prodigious plenty. - -The scouts, as usual, soon after stacking goods and arranging camp, set -out to explore, and in a short time met some people in cotton dresses -who were armed with guns, and who fired upon them. We heard the loud -boom of percussion muskets, and the sharper crack of rifles, and then -there was quiet. Presently the scouts returned to report, and they -brought me an Enfield rifle which had been thrown away by the defeated -band, two of the men were supposed to be fatally wounded, one was said -to be dead. They also brought with them a woman and a boy, who were -evidently natives of the country, and could say nothing intelligible. - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -May 30. - -Bukoko.] - -A company of seventy rifles was immediately despatched to reconnoitre -further, and in ten minutes there was quite a sustained fusillade, deep -booming of muskets against sharp volleys of Remingtons and Winchesters. -Soon after two of our men were carried to camp wounded, who reported -that the enemy were Wara Sura. The rifles appeared to have pressed the -strangers hard; the firing was getting more distant, but in an hour's -time we had two more wounded, and a Zanzibari youth, and a Manyuema -youth killed, and almost immediately, as I thought of preparing a strong -reinforcement, Uledi and the rifles walked into camp accompanied by the -chiefs of the enemy, who turned out to be Manyuema raiders, the -followers of Kilonga-Longa! - -Their story was that a band of fifty gunmen, accompanied by about 100 -spearmen, had crossed the Ituri River, and pushing east had arrived -about twenty days ago near the edge of the forest, having crossed the -Semliki River, and had, with their usual tactics, commenced raiding when -they caught sight of some men with guns whom they guessed to be Wara -Sura, and had fired upon them. The strangers had fired in return and -killed one of them, wounded another mortally, and four others severely. -The rest had fled to their settlement, crying out, "We are finished," -whereupon they had then sent men to be in ambush along the route, while -the community at the settlement was repairing its defences. On seeing -the head of the party coming along the road, they had fired, killing two -and wounding four slightly, but when their friends began to rain bullets -on them, they cried out "Who are you?" and were answered that they were -Stanley's men, and firing at once ceased, and an acquaintance ever -disastrous to us was then renewed. Though we should have wished to have -had a legitimate excuse for annihilating one band of the unconscionable -raiders, we could not but accept their apologies for what had clearly -been an accident, and gifts were exchanged. - -We were told that they had met gangs of the Wara Sura, but had met "bad -luck," and only one small tusk of ivory rewarded their efforts. Ipoto, -according to them, was twenty days' march through the forest from -Bukoko. - -Ruwenzori was now known as Virika by the Awamba of this district. - -Since emerging from the Awamba forest near Ugarama, we had journeyed -along a narrow strip, covered with prodigious growth of cane-grass -reaching as high as fifteen feet. From eminences it appears to be from -three to eight miles wide, separating the deep, dark forest. From the -immediate vicinity of the mountain, notwithstanding that the grass was -of the height and thickness of bamboo, the path was infinitely better, -and we had but to cross one or two ravines and watercourses during a -march. A feature of it was the parachute-shaped acacia, which in the -neighbourhood of the Nyanza was the only tree visible. Near the forest -line this tree disappears, and the vegetation, riotously luxuriant and -purely tropical, occupied the rest of the valley. - -[Illustration: THE TALLEST PEAK OF RUWENZORI, FROM AWAMBA FOREST.] - -The streams we had lately crossed were cold mountain torrents with -fairly wide beds, showing gravel, sand, cobble stones, specimens of the -rocks above, gneiss, porphyry, hornblende, sandstone, steatite, -hematite, and granite, with several pumice lumps. Three of the principal -rivers, called the Rami, Rubutu, and Singiri, were respectively of the -temperatures 68 deg., 62 deg., and 65 deg. Fahrenheit. - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -June 2. - -Banzombe.] - -After a halt of two days at Bukoko we marched a distance of eight miles -to the village of Banzombe, situate on a narrow, level-topped spur -between two deep ravines, on the edge of the forest, which here had -crept up to the base-line of the snow mountains. As usual, Ruwenzori was -invisible, and I feared we should have little chance of photographing -it, or employ any of its lofty peaks to take bearings. - -The vapours issuing from the Semliki Valley appeared to be weighed down -by pressure from above, judging by the long time required for a mass of -ascending vapour to each the summit. The smoke of the camp hung over us -like a fog until we were nearly blinded and suffocated. - -Our cattle showed signs of fagging out. We now possessed 104 head, and -30 sheep and goats. - -On the 3rd of June we reached the little village of Bakokoro, in N. Lat. -0 deg. 37', and here a Copt, one of four brothers, breathed his last. Three -considerable streams had been traversed during the short march of three -miles. The temperature of one was 62 deg. Fahrenheit. - -Unable to trace a path beyond Bakokoro, trending in the direction we -required, we halted on the 4th. Jephson was in a high fever; temperature -105 deg.. Mr. Bonny was also suffering; Stairs had recovered. Captain Nelson -was robust and strong, and during these days was doing double duty to -endeavour to make up for the long months he had been invalided, from -October, 1887, to October, 1888. - -Some plantains measured here were seventeen and a half inches in length, -and as thick as the fore-arm. - -After a short march of two and a half hours, we arrived at Mtarega, -situated near the deep gorge of the Rami-Lulu river, as it issued from a -deep chasm in the mountains. - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -June 3. - -Bakokoro.] - -We had all we desired to possess at this camp. We were within 200 yards -from the foot of the Ruwenzori range. Paths were seen leading up the -steep slopes; a fine cool river was 200 feet below, rushing through the -gorge fresh from the snow tops, 61 deg. Fahrenheit temperature. Bananas, -plantains, and yams, and corn and sugar-cane were in the plantations and -fields, 200 yards away. Now was the period of exploration, and to make -botanical collections. Accordingly I sounded the note to prepare to win -immortal renown by scaling the heights of the famous Mountains of the -Moon. My strength was so far recovered that I could walk 200 yards. Mr. -Jephson regretted to say that the fever had conquered and subdued his -sanguine spirit; Captain Nelson was sorry, but really, if there was any -practical use in climbing such ruthlessly tall mountains--and he took a -solemn look at them, and said, "No, thanks!" Surgeon Parke's line was -amid suffering humanity; Mr. Bonny was in bad luck--an obstinate fever -had gripped him, and reduced his limbs to mere sticks. Captain Casati -smiled mournfully, and seemed to say, "Look at me, and imagine how far I -could go." But the Pasha's honour was at stake; he had at all times -expressed rapture at the very thought, and this was the critical period -in the march of the Expedition, and Stairs took a sly glance at the -grim, unconquered heights, and said, "I'll go, like a shot." It only -remained for me to advise him, to furnish him with instruments, to -compare his aneroids with a standard one in camp, and supply the men -with many anxious counsels to avoid the cold, and to beware of chills -after an ascent. - -The night was an agreeable one. The altitude of the camp above the sea -was 3,860 feet, and a gentle, cool wind blew all night from the gap of -the Rumi-Lulu river. In the morning Stairs departed, and the Pasha -accompanied him. But, alas! the Pasha had to yield after a thousand -feet, and returned to camp, while Stairs held on his way. The following -is the report of his experiences:-- - -Expedition Camp, -_June 8th, 1889_. - -SIR,-- - - Early on the morning of the 6th June, accompanied by some forty - Zanzibaris, we made a start from the Expedition Camp at the - foot-hills of the range, crossed the stream close to a camp, and - commenced the ascent of the mountain. - - With me I had two aneroids, which together we had previously noted - and compared with a standard aneroid remaining in camp under your - immediate observation; also a Fahrenheit thermometer. - - For the first 900 feet above camp the climbing was fairly good, and - our progress was greatly aided by a native track which led up to - some huts in the hills. These huts we found to be of the ordinary - circular type so common on the plain, but with the difference that - bamboo was largely used in their interior construction. Here we - found the food of the natives to be maize, bananas, and colocassia - roots. On moving away from these huts, we soon left behind us the - long rank grass, and entered a patch of low scrubby bush, - intermixed with bracken and thorns, making the journey more - difficult. - - At 8.30 A.M. we came upon some more huts of the same type, and - found that the natives had decamped from them some days previously. - Here the barometer read 23.58 and 22.85; the thermometer 75 deg. F. On - all sides of us we could see Dracaenas, and here and there an - occasional tree-fern and palm: and, tangled in all shapes on either - side of the track, were masses of long bracken. The natives now - appeared at different hill-tops and points near by, and did their - best to frighten us back down the mountain, by shouting and blowing - horns. We, however, kept on our way up the slope, and in a short - time they disappeared and gave us very little further trouble. - - Of the forest plains, stretching far away below us, we could see - nothing, owing to the thick haze; we were thus prevented from - seeing the hills to the west and north-west. - - At 10 30 A.M., after some sharp climbing, we reached the last - settlement of the natives, the cultivation consisting of beans and - colocassias, but no bananas. Here the barometer read 22.36; - thermometer 84 deg. F. Beyond this settlement was a rough track leading - up the spur to the forest; this we followed, but in many places, to - get along at all, we had to crawl on our hands and knees, so steep - were the slopes. - - At 11 A.M. we reached this forest and found it to be one of - bamboos, at first open, and then getting denser as we ascended. We - had noticed a complete and sudden change in the air from that we - had just passed through. It became much cooler and more pure and - refreshing, and all went along at a faster rate and with lighter - hearts. Now that the Zanzibaris had come so far, they all appeared - anxious to ascend as high as possible, and began to chaff each - other as to who should bring down the biggest load of the "white - stuff" on the top of the mountain. At 12.40 P.M. we emerged from - the bamboos and sat down on a grassy spot to eat our lunch. - Barometers, 21.10 and 27.95/100. Thermometer, 70 deg. F. Ahead of us, - and rising in one even slope, stood a peak, in altitude 1200 feet - higher than we were. This we now started to climb, and after going - up it a short distance, came upon the tree-heaths. Some of these - bushes must have been 20 feet high, and, as we had to cut our way - foot by foot through them, our progress was necessarily slow and - very fatiguing to those ahead. - - At 3.15 P.M. we halted among the heaths for a few moments to regain - our breath. Here and there were patches of inferior bamboos, almost - every stem having holes in it, made by some boring insect and quite - destroying its usefulness. Under foot was a thick spongy carpet of - wet moss, and the heaths on all sides of us, we noticed, were - covered with "old man's beard" (_Usnea_). We found great numbers of - blue violets and lichens, and from this spot I brought away some - specimens of plants for the Pasha to classify. A general feeling of - cold dampness prevailed: in spite of our exertions in climbing, we - all felt the cold mist very much. It is this continual mist - clinging to the hill-tops that no doubt causes all the vegetation - to be so heavily charged with moisture and makes the ground under - foot somewhat slippery. - - Shortly after 4 P.M. we halted among some high heaths for camp. - Breaking down the largest bushes we made rough shelters for - ourselves, collected what firewood we could find, and in other ways - made ready for the night. Firewood, however, was scarce, owing to - the wood being so wet that it would not burn. In consequence of - this, the lightly-clad Zanzibaris felt the cold very much, though - the altitude was only about 8,500 feet. On turning in the - thermometer registered 60 deg. F. From camp I got a view of the peaks - ahead, and it was now that I began to fear that we should not be - able to reach the snow. Ahead of us, lying directly in our path, - were three enormous ravines; at the bottom of at least two of these - there was dense bush. Over these we should have to travel and cut - our way through the bush. It would then resolve itself into a - question of time as to whether we could reach the summit or not. I - determined to go on in the morning, and see exactly what - difficulties lay before us, and if these could be surmounted in a - reasonable time, to go on as far as we possibly could. - -[Illustration: S.W. TWIN CONES OF RUWENZORI, BY LIEUT. STAIRS.] - - On the morning of the 7th, selecting some of the best men, and - sending the others down the mountain, we started off again upwards, - the climbing being similar to that we experienced yesterday - afternoon. The night had been bitterly cold, and some of the men - complained of fever, but all were in good spirits, and quite ready - to go on. About 10 A.M. we were stopped by the first of the ravines - mentioned above. On looking at this I saw that it would take a - long time to cross, and there were ahead of it still two others. We - now got our first glimpse of a snow peak, distance about two and a - half miles, and I judged it would take us still a day and a half to - reach this, the nearest snow. To attempt it, therefore, would only - end disastrously, unprovided as we were with food and some better - clothing for two of the men. I therefore decided to return, - trusting all the time that at some future camp a better opportunity - of making an ascent would present itself, and the summit be - reached. Across this ravine was a bare rocky peak, very clearly - defined and known to us as the south-west of the "Twin Cones." The - upper part of this was devoid of vegetation, the steep beds of rock - only allowing a few grasses and heaths in one or two spots to - exist. - - The greatest altitude reached by us, after being worked out and all - connections applied, was about 10,677 feet above the sea. The - altitude of the snow peak above this would probably be about 6,000 - feet, making the mountain, say, 16,600 feet high. This, though, is - not the highest peak in the Ruwenzori cluster. With the aid of a - field-glass I could make out the form of the mountain-top - perfectly. The extreme top of the peak is crowned with an irregular - mass of jagged and precipitous rock, and has a distinct crater-like - form. I could see through a gap in the near side a corresponding - rim or edge on the farther of the same formation and altitude. From - this crown of rock, the big peak slopes to the eastward at a slope - of about 25 deg. until shut out from view by an intervening peak; but - to the west the slope is much steeper. Of the snow, the greater - mass lay on that slope directly nearest us, covering the slope - wherever its inclination was not too great. The largest bed of snow - would cover a space measuring about 600 by 300 feet, and of such a - depth that in only two spots did the black rock crop out above its - surface. Smaller patches of snow extended well down into the - ravine; the height from the lowest snow to the summit of the peak - would be about 1200 feet or 1000 feet. To the E.N.E. our horizon - was bounded by the spur which, standing directly behind our main - camp, and mounting abruptly, takes a curve in a horizontal plane - and centres on to the snow peak. Again that spur which lay south of - us also radiated from the two highest peaks. This would seem to be - the general form of the mountain, namely, that the large spurs - radiate from the snow-peaks as a centre, and spread out to the - plains below. This formation on the west side of the mountain would - cause the streams to flow from the centre, and flow on, gradually - separating from each other until they reached the plains below. - Thence they turn to W.N.W., or trace their courses along the bottom - spurs of the range and run into the Semliki River, and on to the - Albert Nyanza. Of the second snow-peak, which we have seen on - former occasions, I could see nothing, owing to the "Twin Cones" - intervening. This peak is merely the termination, I should think, - of the snowy range we saw when at Kavalli, and has a greater - elevation, if so, than the peak we endeavoured to ascend. Many - things go to show that the existence of these peaks is due to - volcanic causes. The greatest proof that this is so lies in the - numbers of conical peaks clustering round the central mass on the - western side. These minor cones have been formed by the central - volcano getting blocked in its crater, owing to the pressure of its - gases not being sufficient to throw out the rock and lava from its - interior; and consequently the gases, seeking for weak spots, have - burst through the earth's crust and thus been the means of forming - these minor cones that now exist. Of animal life on the mountain we - saw almost nothing. That game of some sort exists is plain from the - number of pitfalls we saw on the road-sides, and from the fact of - our finding small nooses in the natives' huts, such as those used - for taking ground game. - - We heard the cries of an ape in a ravine, and saw several dull, - greyish-brown birds like stonechats, but beyond these nothing. - - We found blueberries and blackberries at an altitude of 10,000 feet - and over, and I have been able to hand over to the Pasha some - specimens for his collections, the generic names of which he has - kindly given me, and which are attached below. That I could not - manage to reach the snow and bring back some as evidence of our - work, I regret very much; but to have proceeded onwards to the - mountain under the conditions in which we were situated, I felt - would be worse than useless, and though all of us were keen and - ready to go on, I gave the order to return. I then read off the - large aneroid, and found the hand stood at 19.90. I set the - index-pin directly opposite to the hand, and we started down hill. - At 3 P.M. on the 7th, I reached you, it having taken four and a - half hours of marching from the "Twin Cones." - -I have the honour to be, &c., -(Signed) W. G. STAIRS, Lieut. R.E. - - P.S.--The following are the generic names of the plants collected - by me, as named by the Pasha:-- - - - 1. Clematis. 14. Sonchus. 27. Asplenium. - 2. Viola. 15. Erica arborea. 28. Aspidium. - 3. Hibiscus. 16. Landolphia. 29. Polypodium. - 4. Impatiens. 17. Heliotropium. 30. Lycopodium. - 5. Tephorsia. 18. Lantana. 31. Selaginella. - 6. Elycina (?). 19. Mochosma. 32. Marchantia. - 7. Rubus. 20. Lissochilus. 33. Parmelia. - 8. Vaccinium. 21. Luzula. 34. Dracoena. - 9. Begonia. 22. Carex. 35. Usnea. - 10. Pencedanum. 23. Anthistiria. 36. Tree fern } - 11. Gnaphalium. 24. Adiantum. 37. One fern } unknown. - 12. Helichrysum. 25. Pellia. 38. One polypodium } - 13. Senecio. 26. Pteris aquilina. - -Might we have been able to obtain a view over the Semliki Valley we -should have enjoyed one of exceeding interest. But we were unable to see -more through the thick sluggish mist than that, wide as it may be, it is -covered with a deep forest. The mist soared over the whole in irregular -streams or in one heavy mass, which gave it the aspect of an inverted -sky. Sometimes for a brief period a faint image of endless woods loomed -out, but the mist streamed upward through the foliage as though a -multitude of great geysers emitted vapours of hot steam. In the -immediate foreground it was not difficult to distinguish elevations and -depressions, or round basin-like hollows filled with the light-green -forests of banana groves. - -One of the Twin Cones was visible a few hundred yards from camp, and -after a careful measurement with alta-azimuth it was found to be 12,070 -feet. - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -June 5. - -Mtarego.] - -After a halt of three days we struck camp, descended the precipitous -walls of the gorge of the Rami-lulu, and, traversing the narrow level, -shortly ascended up the equally wall-like slope on the other side, -discovering a fact which, but for the ascent and descent, we might not -have thought of, namely, that the Rami-lulu had channelled this deep -ditch through a terrace formed of the washings and scourings of soil off -the slopes. It was a debris, consisting of earth, rock, boulders, and -gravel, which had been washed down the gap and accompanied by landslips -of so great a magnitude as to have choked up the course of the river and -formed quite an extensive and elevated tract, but the Rami-lulu had -eventually furrowed and grooved itself deeply through, and so the great -bank of material lies cut in two, to the depth of 200 feet, sufficiently -instructive. - -At early dawn a Madi chief was speared by a bold native. About a mile -from Mtarega the grassy strip to which we had clung in preference was -ended, the forest had marched across the breadth of the Semliki Valley, -and had absorbed the Ruwenzori slopes to a height of seven thousand feet -above us, and whether we would or no, we had to enter the doleful shades -again. But then the perfection of a tropical forest was around us. It -even eclipsed the Ituri Valley in the variety of plants and general -sappiness. There were clumps of palms, there were giant tree-ferns, -there were wild bananas, and tall, stately trees all coated with thick -green moss from top to root, impenetrable thickets of broad-leafed -plants, and beads of moisture everywhere, besides tiny rillets oozing -out every few yards from under the matted tangle of vivid green and -bedewed undergrowth. It was the best specimen of a tropical conservatory -I had ever seen. It could not be excelled if art had lent its aid to -improve nature. In every tree-fork and along the great horizontal -branches grew the loveliest ferns and lichens; the elephant ear by the -dozen, the orchids in close fellowship, and the bright green moss had -formed soft circular cushions about them, and on almost every fibre -there trembled a clear water-drop, and everything was bathed by a most -humid atmosphere. The reason of all this was not far to seek; there were -three hot-water springs, the temperature of which was 102 deg.. This tract -of forest was also in the cosiest fold of the snow mountains, and -whatever heat a hot sun furnished on this place was long retained. - -We camped in a dry spot in this forest, and the next day, after marching -a distance of six and a quarter miles, we emerged out of it into the -superb clearing of Ulegga, and sought shelter in a straggling village -within a bow-shot reach of the mountains. Banana groves clothed the -slopes and ran up the ravines, and were ranged along the base line, and -extended out in deep frondiose groves far into the Semliki Valley. There -were bananas everywhere; and there was no lack of tobacco, or of Indian -corn, or of two kinds of beans, or of yams, and colocassia. - -We entered into this district suspicious and suspecting; the death of -the Madi chief had impressed us that we should not be too confident, and -that vigilance was necessary day and night. At the first village the -advance guard encountered men who unhesitatingly resented their -intrusion, and began hostilities, and this had created an impression -that an important effort would be made. Wherever we looked there were -villages, and if courage aided numbers the people were capable of an -obstinate resistance. So we pressed bands of armed men up to the -mountains, and the skirmishing was brisk, but at 4 P.M. Matyera, a Bari -interpreter among the Pasha's followers, managed to get speech of a few -natives, and succeeded in inducing the chief to consent to peace. He -came in and said that he had come to throw himself at our feet to be -slain or saved. The trumpeters sounded to cease firing, and within two -minutes there was a dead silence. - -This chief and his friends were the first representatives of Ukonju we -had seen, and the devoted mission of the chief instantly won our -sympathy and admiration. I was rather disappointed in their appearance, -however, though needlessly upon reflection. There is no reason, save a -fancy, why I should have expected those mountaineers familiar with -mountain altitudes to be lighter in complexion than the people in the -Semliki and Ituri Valley forests; but the truth is, they are much darker -than even the Zanzibaris. Supposing a people dwelt around a base line of -the Swiss Alps, and an irresistible army of Scandinavians swept up to -them, the aboriginal inhabitants would naturally take refuge up the -mountains, and in the same manner these dark-complexioned people of the -true negroid type found themselves unable to resist the invasions of the -Indo-African Wachwezi and the coppery-faced tribes of the forest, and -sought shelter in the hills, and recesses of the Equatorial Alps, and -round about them ebbed and flowed the paler tribes, and so the Wakonju -were confined to their mountains. - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -June 10. - -Ulegga.] - -During our march to Mtsora on the next day we crossed five streams, -which, descending from the mountains, flowed to the Semliki. One of -these was of considerable volume and called the Butahu River, the -temperature of which was 57 deg. Fahrenheit. - -At Mtsora we received in a short time a good local knowledge from the -Wakonju who were now our friends. I learned the following items of -interest. - -We were told that a few miles north of here was an arm of the upper lake -which we had heard so much about, and which I discovered in January, -1876. They call it the Ingezi, which in Kinyoro, means river, swamp, or -small lake. The Ruweru, or lake, was two days' march south. - -They also called it the Nyanza; and when I asked its name, they replied, -Muta-Nzige, and some of them knew of three Muta-Nziges--the -"Muta-Nzige," of Unyoro, the "Muta-Nzige," of Usongora, the -"Muta-Nzige," of Uganda. - -As for Nyanzas, the number became perplexing. There is the Nyanza of -Unyoro, the Nyanza of Usongora; the Nyanza of Unyampaka; the Nyanza of -Toro; the Nyanza Semliki; the Nyanza Unyavingi; the Nyanza of Karagwe; -and the Nyanza of Uganda. So that a river of any importance feeding a -lake, becomes a Nyanza, a large bay becomes a Nyanza; a small lake, or a -greater, is known as a Nyanza, or Ruweru. - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -June 11. - -Mtsora.] - -Those semi-Ethiopic peoples who were known to us at Kavalli, as the -Wahuma, Waima, Wawitu, Wachwezi, were now called Waiyana, Wanyavingi, -Wasongora, and Wanyankori. - -Ruwenzori, called already Bugombowa, Avirika, and Viruka, by the forest -tribes, became now known as the Ruwenzu-ru-ru, or Ruwenjura, according -as a native might be able to articulate. - -The Butahu River separates Ulegga from Uringa. - -The Wara-Sura were gathered under Rukara, a general of Kabba Rega, King -of Unyoro. Some of these ferocious raiders were said to be stationed at -the ferry of Waiyana, a few miles north of here. The Wakonju offered to -assist us to drive them out of the land. - -We were told that Rukara's headquarters were at Katwe, a town near the -Salt Lakes, which are somewhat to the south. - -That on the western bank of the Semliki are the tribes Wakovi and -Wasoki, and that there are also Watwa pigmies. - -We were informed that Usongora and Toro had submitted to Kabba Rega; but -the inhabitants of the lake islands refused to promise allegiance, and -it was said Kakuri, the chief, had applied to the Wanyavingi and -Wanyankori for assistance against Kabba Rega. We were promised the -submission of all the Wakonju and Wasangora if we entered into treaty or -agreement with them, and I accepted the offer. - -The Wakonju people are round-headed, broad faced, and of medium size. -They affect circlets manufactured of calamus fibre, very slender, and -covering the ankles by hundreds. They also wear a large number on the -upper arm. The chiefs also are distinguished by heavy copper or brass -wristlets. The women's neck decorations consist of heavy iron rings -coiled spirally at the ends. On the slopes of the mountain, I am told, -is found much fine crystal quartz. - -At the entrance of almost every village in Ukonju may be seen a -miniature tent, with a very small doorway, before which the natives -place a banana or an egg. A tradition exists that Mikonju, the founder -of the tribe who first cleared the forest, and planted bananas, -initiated this custom to prevent theft. It is a tithe offered to the -fetish or spirit to remind it that they wish their banana groves, or the -eggs whence issue fowls, protected. - -On the 12th of June I despatched Lieutenant Stairs, with sixty rifles -and a number of Wakonju guides, to proceed to the Semliki, and satisfy -all doubts about it; and on the next day he returned, having been -favourably received by the natives, who tendered their submission, and -accompanied our officer to the river explaining to him every matter of -interest. He found it forty-two yards wide, and ten feet deep, sunk -between banks of fifty and sixty feet high, and with a current of three -miles per hour. After tasting and looking at it, and questioning all the -natives who could impart information, he concluded that:--I. Because of -the unbroken appearance of the range westward, which has faced the -Ruwenzori range ever since leaving the Albert; II. Because of the -peculiar grey, muddy colour; III. Because of the peculiar flavour, which -is slightly saline, and "unsatisfying," like that of the Albert Lake; -IV. Because of the unanimous statement of the natives that it flows a -little west of north, then north, then north-easterly to the Lake of -Unyoro, which is the Albert; V. Because of the positive assurance of one -native traveller, who is acquainted with the river along its course, -from its exit out of one lake to its entering into the other; the -Semliki river leaves the upper lake, takes a winding course, with a -strong inclination to the western range, when, after turning to the -north-east, it gradually draws nearer the Ruwenzori range, flows through -Awamba forest and Utuku into the Albert Nyanza. - -From an anthill near Mtsora, I observed that from W.N.W., a mile away, -commenced a plain, which was a duplicate of that which had so deceived -the Egyptians, and caused them to hail it as their lake, and that it -extended southerly, and appeared as though it were the bed of a lake -from which the waters had recently receded. The Semliki, which had -drained it dry, was now from 50 to 60 feet below the crest of its banks. -The slopes, consisting of lacustrine deposits, grey loam, and sand, -could offer no resistance to a three-mile current, and if it were not -for certain reefs, formed by the bed-rock under the surface of the -lacustrine deposit, it is not to be doubted that such a river would soon -drain the upper lake. The forest ran across from side to side of the -valley, a dark barrier, in very opposite contrast to the bleached grass -which the nitrous old bed of the lake nourished. - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -June 12. - -Mtsora.] - -We had a magnificent view of Ruwenzori just before sunset one evening -during our halt in Mtsora. A large field of snow, and snow-peaks beyond -the foremost line, appeared in view. During the whole day our eyes had -rested on a long line of dark and solemn spurs, their summits buried in -leaden mist; but soon after 5 P.M. the upper extremities of those spurs -loomed up one after another, and a great line of mountain shoulders -stood out; then peak after peak struggled from behind night-black clouds -into sight, until at last the snowy range, immense and beautiful, a -perfect picture of beautiful and majestic desolateness, drew all eyes -and riveted attention, while every face seemed awed. The natives told us -that the meaning of the word Ruwenzori means the Rain-Maker, or Cloud -King. - -On the 14th of June, escorted by a large following of Wakonju, we -marched four and a half hours, and entered Muhamba, in Usongora. Soon -after leaving Mtsora we had descended into the grassy plains, which had -been within a calculable period a portion of the bed of the lake we were -now approaching. About half way, we passed a respectable tributary of -the Semliki, called the Rwimi, which separates Ukonju from Usongora. One -of the streams we crossed soon after issued from a hot-spring. - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -June 15. - -Karimi.] - -[Illustration: RUWENZORI, FROM MTSORA.] - -The next day, an hour's march from Muhamba, we left the plain and -commenced the ascent of the mountains, as the range declining towards -the south forms a lengthened hilly promontory, dividing Usongora into -western and eastern divisions, lying on either side of it, and both -being in past times covered by the lake. After an ascent of about 1,500 -feet, a world of hills rose before us, and a view worthy of memory would -have been obtained but for the eternal mist covering the grander ranges. -Still, it was a fascinating sight, and one that in the time to come will -be often painted and sketched and described. It reminded me greatly of -the lower Alps, as viewed from Berne, though these successive ranges of -African Alps are much higher; but the white-headed mountain kings rose -far above these even, and at this time were hidden in the murky clouds. -Having crossed the promontory, we descended 300 feet, and, crossing a -profound and narrow valley, camped at Karimi. - -At 5.15 P.M. the mists and fogs were blown away from the crowns of -Ruwenzori, and for once we enjoyed the best view obtained yet, a -description of which must be referred to in another chapter. The -photographic apparatus was up in a short time, to perpetuate one of the -rarest sights in the world, of one of the grandest views that Africa can -furnish. - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -June 16. - -Rusesse.] - -On the 16th June, after a long march of four and three-quarter hours, we -arrived at the zeriba of Rusesse. We descended from Karimi about 700 -feet to the plain of Eastern Usongora, and an hour later we came to -Ruverahi River, 40 feet wide, and a foot deep; an ice-cold stream, clear -as crystal and fresh from the snows. Ruwenzori was all the morning in -sight, a bright vision of mountain beauty and glory. As we approached -Rusesse a Msongora herdsman, in the employ of Rukara, the General of the -Wara-Sura, came across the plain, and informed us that he could direct -us to one of Rukara's herds. We availed ourselves of his kind offices, -which he was performing as a patriot son of the soil tyrannised over and -devastated by Rukara; and fifty rifles were sent with him, and in -fifteen minutes we were in possession of a fine herd of twenty-five fat -cattle, which we drove without incident with our one hundred head to the -zeriba of Rusesse. From a bank of cattle-dung, so high as to be like a -great earthwork round about the village, we gained our first view of the -Albert Edward Nyanza, at a distance of three miles. - - - - -CHAPTER XXIX. - -THE SOURCES OF THE NILE--THE MOUNTAINS OF THE MOON, AND THE FOUNTAINS OF -THE NILE. - - Pere Jerome Lobo and the Nile--The chartographers of Homer's - time--Hekataeus's ideas of Africa--Africa after Hipparchus--The - great Ptolemy's map--Edrisi's map--Map of the Margarita - Philosophica--Map of John Ruysch--Sylvannus' Map--Sebastian Cabot's - map--The arbitrariness of the modern map-maker--Map of Constable, - Edinburgh--What Hugh Murray says in his book published in 1818--A - fine dissertation on the Nile by Father Lobo--Extracts from part of - a MS. in the possession of H. E. Ali Pasha Moubarek--Plan of Mount - Gumr--A good description of Africa by Scheabeddin--The Nile - according to Abdul Hassen Ali--Abu Abd Allah Mohammed on the Nile - river. - - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -June. - -The Nile.] - -Every reader of this chapter will agree with Pere Jerome Lobo, of the -Company of Jesus, who wrote in the 16th century, that "it is not -difficult, after having found the sources of the Nile, and of the rivers -that run into it, to resolve the question as to its origin--a question -that has caused so much anxiety to ancient and modern authors, because -they were looking for that which could not be discovered in their heads, -by which they were lost in vain thoughts and reasonings." - -For the complacent satisfaction of those who have not undergone the -harassing anxieties attending the exploration of the countries in the -region of the Nile sources, and who would prefer to content themselves -with reading about them at home before a sparkling fire and under the -light of the parlour lamp, I beg to present them with a few copies of -ancient maps, from Homer's time, forty centuries ago, down to those -whence we derived instruction in African geography. They will observe -with pleasure that we have not much to boast of; that the ancient -travellers, geographers, and authors had a very fair idea whence the -Nile issued, that they had heard of the Lunae Montes, and the triple -lakes, and of the springs which gave birth to the famous river of Egypt. -We only claim to have barred for a time the periodic flights of these -interesting features of Africa, from 10 deg. north latitude to as far as 20 deg. -south latitude, and from east to west Africa, and to have located with -reasonable precision the grand old Mountains of the Moon, and the -Albertine and Victorine sources of the Nile. And for a time only! For -"what profit hath a man of all his labour which he taketh under the sun? -One generation passeth away, and another generation cometh. The thing -that hath been, it is that which shall be; and that which is done is -that which shall be done: and there is no new thing under the sun. Is -there anything whereof it may be said, See, this is new? it hath been -already of old time, which was before us. There is no remembrance of -former things; neither shall there be any remembrance of things that are -to come with those that shall come after." - -What the chartographers of Homer's time illustrated of geographical -knowledge succeeding chartographers effaced, and what they in their turn -sketched was expunged by those who came after them. In vain explorers -sweated under the burning sun, and endured the fatigues and privations -of arduous travel: in vain did they endeavour to give form to their -discoveries, for in a few years the ruthless map-maker obliterated all -away. Cast your eyes over these series of small maps, and witness for -yourselves what this tribe has done to destroy every discovery, and to -render labour and knowledge vain. There _is_ a chartographer living, the -chiefest sinner alive. In 1875, I found a bay at the north-east end of -Lake Victoria. A large and mountainous island, capacious enough to -supply 20,000 people with its products of food, blocked the entrance -from the lake into it, but there is a winding strait at either end of -sufficient depth and width to enable an Atlantic liner to steam in -boldly. The bay has been wiped out, the great island has been shifted -elsewhere, and the picturesque channels are not in existence on his -latest maps, and they will not be restored until some other traveller, -years hence, replaces them as they stood in 1875. And young travellers -are known to chuckle with malicious pleasure at all this, forgetful of -what old Solomon said in the olden time: "There is no remembrance of -former things; neither shall there be any remembrance of things that are -to come with those that shall come after." - -[Illustration: AFRICA IN HOMER'S WORLD.] - -So, though it is some satisfaction to be able to vindicate the more -ancient geographers to some extent, I publish at the end of the series -of old maps the small chart which illustrates what we have verified -during our late travels. I do it with the painful consciousness that -some stupid English or German map-maker within the next ten years may, -from spleen and ignorance, shift the basin 300 or 400 miles farther east -or west, north or south, and entirely expunge our labours. However, I am -comforted that on some shelf of the British Museum will be found a copy -of 'In Darkest Africa,' which shall contain these maps, and that I have -a chance of being brought forth as an honest witness of the truth, in -the same manner as I cite the learned geographers of the olden time to -the confusion of the map-makers of the nineteenth century. - -In the little sketch of 'Homer's World,' which I have taken the liberty -of copying, with a few others, from Judge Daly's[13] learned and -valuable contribution to the knowledge of ancient geography, it will be -seen that the Nile is traced up to an immense range of mountains, beyond -which are located the pigmies. - -Five centuries later a celebrated traveller called Hekataeus illustrates -his ideas of Africa in a map given below. Though he had visited Egypt, -it is quite clear that not many new discoveries had been made. According -to him the great Egyptian river takes its rise at the southern extremity -of Africa, where the pigmies live. - -[Illustration: AFRICA IN MAP OF HEKATAEUS. 500 B.C.] - -The next map of Africa that I wish to introduce for inspection is by the -"greatest astronomer of antiquity," Hipparchus, who lived 100 years B.C. -His sketch contains three distinct lakes, but situate far north of the -equator. - -Here follows the great Ptolemy, the Ravenstein or Justas Perthes of his -period. Some new light has been thrown by his predecessors, and he has -revised and embellished what was known. He has removed the sources of -the Nile, with scientific confidence, far south of the equator, and -given to the easternmost lake the name of Coloe Palus. - -[Illustration: HIPPARCHUS. 100 B.C.] - -A thousand years elapse, and bring us to Edrisi, an Arab geographer, -1154 A.D. Some little information has been gained in the meanwhile of -the Dark Interior. The Mountains of the Moon are prominent now, but -several degrees south of the equator. Two of the lakes discharge their -surplus waters to a third lake, which is north, whence the Nile issues, -flowing northward towards Egypt. We see in it the results of -geographical conferences, and many inquiries from ivory traders. - -[Illustration: PTOLEMY'S MAP. A.D. 150.] - -Four centuries later we see, by the following map, that the lakes have -changed their position. Ambitious chartographers have been eliciting -information from the latest traveller. They do not seem to be so well -acquainted with the distant region around the Nile sources as those -ancients preceding Edrisi. Nevertheless, the latest travellers must know -best. - -[Illustration: CENTRAL AFRICA _according to_ EDRISI. 1154 A.D.] - -But in the short space of five years new light has been thrown again, or -is it the mere vagary of a chartographer? Lo! the "Mountains of the -Moon" are restored many degrees below the equator, but there are only -two lakes south of the equator, while the third has travelled to an -immense distance north of the line. - -[Illustration: MAP OF THE MARGARITA PHILOSOPHICA A.D. 1503] - -Within three years Africa seems to have been battered out of shape -somewhat. The three lakes have been attracted to one another; between -two of the lakes the Mountains of the Moon begin to take form and rank. -The Mons Lunae are evidently increasing in height and length. As Topsy -might have said, "specs they have grown some." - -[Illustration: JOHN RUYSCH A.D. 1508.] - -[Illustration: SYLVANNUS' MAP A.D. 1511] - -[Illustration: HIERONIMUS DE VERRAZANO 1529] - -[Illustration: SEBASTIAN CABOT'S MAP OF THE WORLD 16th Century] - -In the following map we see a reproduction of Sebastian Cabot's map in -the sixteenth century. I have omitted the pictures of elephants and -crocodiles, great emperors and dwarfs, which are freely scattered over -the map with somewhat odd taste. The three lakes have arranged -themselves in line again, and the Mountains of the Moon are -picturesquely banked at the top head of all the streams, but the -continent evidently suggests unsteadiness generally, judging from the -form of it. - -That from the sixteenth to the middle of the nineteenth century very -little further knowledge respecting the sources of the Nile was known -may be proved by the map of my school-days, which follows. There is a -distinct retrogression by the determined stupidity of the map-maker. All -that we had gathered since the days of old Homer down to the seventeenth -century--all the lakes are swept away--the Mountains of the Moon run -from about 5 deg. to about 10 deg. north of the equator, and extend from Long. -20 deg. to the Gulf of Aden. We simply owe our ignorance to the map-makers. -We no sooner discover some natural feature than it is removed in a next -issue. - -[Illustration: THE NILE SOURCES ACCORDING TO GEOGRAPHERS OF THE 16^{TH} -& 17^{TH} CENTURIES] - -[Sidenote:1889. June. - -The Nile.] - -The arbitrariness of the modern map-maker is as bad as that of his -predecessors. In a late German map, for instance, considered to be the -best in Germany, there is a large bay removed altogether from the -Victoria Nyanza, and a straight line, drawn by pure caprice, usurps the -place of a very interesting and much indented coastline, explored by me -in 1875. Speke's Lake Urigi is jostled to the east, shunted to the -north; Ukerewe is utterly out of order, and the Tanganika has a great -bay named after a person who had followed in the steps of six preceding -investigators. Lake Leopold II. narrowly escaped being sponged out -because two Germans, Kund (?) and Tappenbeck, had lost their way, and -could not find it; but in the meantime an English missionary visited it, -and it was left in peace. English map-makers are quite as capricious. - -This map, for instance, which has made such cruel and wicked changes of -Homer, Hipparchus, Ptolemy, and others, was published by Constable in -1819, in a fit of aggravated biliousness no doubt. - -Hugh Murray, a compiler of African travels, published in London, 1818, a -book called an 'Historical Account of Discoveries and Travels in -Africa,' and as he has been an industrious collator of testimony which -the best authors of twenty centuries could furnish, I avail myself of -his assistance. He says: - - "Herodotus shows himself to have known the course of the Nile - higher probably than it has been traced by any modern European. - - "From Elephantine at the southern extremity of Egypt (Assouan) to - Meroe, the capital of Ethiopia, was a journey of fifty-two days, - and from thence an equal distance to the country of _Automolos_, or - exiles,[14] making in all a hundred and four days' journey. The - regions deeper in the interior were known to him only by the very - short narrative of the 'Excursion of the Nassamones.' The river to - which the travellers were carried flowing to the eastward is - believed to have been the Niger, though Herodotus conceived it to - be the Nile. As it was proved by this data to proceed from the - west, it appeared natural that this river was one of the main - branches. - - "Eratosthenes compared Africa to a trapezium, of which the - Mediterranean coast formed one side, the Nile another, the southern - coast the longest side, and the western coast the shortest side. So - little were the ancients aware of its extent that Pliny pronounced - it to be the least of the continents, and inferior to Europe. Upon - the Nile, therefore, they measured the habitable world of Africa, - and fixed its limit at the highest known point to which that river - had been ascended. This is assigned about three thousand stadia - (three or four hundred miles) beyond Meroe. They seem to have been - fully aware of two great rivers rising from lakes and called the - Astaboras and Astapus, of which the latter (White Nile) flows from - the lake to the south, is swelled to a great height by summer rains - and forms then almost the main body of the Nile. - - [Illustration: MAP OF THE NILE BASIN. 1819. A.D.] - - "Equal in fame with the Geographical School of Eratosthenes was - that of Ptolemy. This school displays an increase of actual - knowledge which was not, however, always accompanied by sounder - views respecting undiscovered regions. Ptolemy appears to have been - the first who formed a correct idea of the whole course of the - Nile, and assigns to its fountains a place in the vast range of the - Mountains of the Moon. But he places his Ethiopia interior much - further south beyond the equator, nearly in the latitude of Raptum" - (Kilwa?). - -The Prior of Neuville les Dames et de Prevessin, who published extracts -from Father Lobo, the Portuguese Jesuit, launches into a fine -dissertation on the Nile, some portions of which are as follows:-- - - "The greatest men of antiquity have passionately endeavoured to - discover the sources of the Nile, imagining, after a career of - conquest, that this discovery was only needed to consummate their - glory. Cambyses lost many people and much time in this search." - - "When Alexander the Great consulted the oracle of Jupiter of Ammon - the first thing he desired to know was whence the Nile sprang, and - having camped on the Indus he believed that he had at last - succeeded." - - "Ptolemy Philadelphia waged war on Ethiopia with a view to ascend - the Nile. He took the town of Axum, as may be seen by the - inscriptions that Cosmos Indoplustes has preserved, which he copied - during the reign of Emperor Justin I." - - "Lucan makes Caesar say in his 'Pharsalia,' that he would readily - abandon the design of warring against his country could he be happy - enough to see the primal fountains of the Nile: - - "'Nihil est quod noscere malim, - Quam fluvii causas per saecula tanta latentes, - Ignotumque caput: spes sit mihi certa videndi - Niliacos fontes; bellum civile relinquam.'" - - "Nero was animated by the same thirst for glory, for he despatched - armies to make this discovery, but the report submitted to him - removed all hope of success." - - "The ancients therefore, searching in vain for the sources of the - Nile, attempted to conceal their ignorance by mysteries, and they - related them in fables. Even the interpreters of Holy Scripture - were not exempt from this defect, as they knew no other lands on - Ethiopia than that of Africa; they thought that Gihon, mentioned in - Genesis, was the Nile, not being able to go against the Scriptures, - where it is said that the Gihon has its spring in the terrestrial - paradise, and it waters the land of Chus; it passes through under - the seas and under the earth to reappear in Ethiopia. How many - clever men have endeavoured to clear up these fables? and how many - different systems were got up? The Bishop of Avranches supports, in - his 'Treatise of the Terrestrial Paradise,' that the Gihon is an - easternly branch of the Euphrates, which flows from the country of - Eden and passes along the country of Chus, now the Cheezeslam. He - adds that Homer makes out that it descends from Jupiter, and calls - it [Greek: Detete]; this is what has caused Plautus to say, - in speaking of a river, which he does not name, that it has its - source in heaven and under the throne of Jupiter. The Egyptians, - Ethiopians, Abyssinians, Gymnosophists, after making out this river - to be a divinity, have thought themselves obliged to maintain the - old errors--even the most absurd ones. Therefore we should not be - astonished, after the poets having attributed a heavenly origin to - the Nile, if the Egyptians, who owe the fertility of their country - to it, have built temples, have erected altars, have established - festivals in its honour, finally, if they have adored it under the - name of Osiris." - - "The Jews and the Mohammedans, who are far from each other in - idolatry, have thought that the waters of the Nile were holy and - blessed, and the Agaus, who live in the environs of the sources of - this river, although instructed in the Christian religion, still - offer sacrifices; so that obstinacy and vanity support the - superstitions and the idolatries that ignorance has introduced." - - "The Nile has changed its name, according to the times and places: 'Nec - ante Nilus, quam se totum aquis concordibus rursus junxit. Sic quoque - etiamnum Siris, ut ante, nominatus per aliquos in totum Homero AEgyptus, - aliisque Triton.' Pliny does not say, as some others have said, that - it was the Nile which at first had the name of 'Egypt,' but it has - given it to the countries it watered while running into the sea, or it - is called so after the name of the country, as rivers are ordinarily - called after the name of the countries they pass through. Hesychius - pretends that the Nile was at first called Egypt, and that it is this - river which has given its name to the country: [Greek: Aigyptos, ho - Neilos ho potamos ach' ou kai e chara hypo tous neoterous Aigyptos - eponomasmenos] (AEgyptus, Nilus fluvius a quo regio a recentioribus - AEgyptus est appellata). Egypt, nevertheless, is not the first name - under which it was known; before it was called Oceanus, afterwards - Aetus or Aquila, then AEgyptus, and from thence it was called Triton, - on account of these three names; finally, it is known now by the - Greeks as well as the Latins by the name of Nile. According to Pliny - it takes the name of Syris by passing through the country of Syene. - The Egyptians, who think themselves indebted to it for the fecundity - of their country and for all its products, have called it the Saviour, - the Sun, the God, sometimes the Father. In the Ethiopian language, as - used by the learned, it is called GEJON, and he believes that it may - have been called so after the name of Gihon, of which Moses speaks - in his description of the terrestrial paradise, where he says, 'Et - nomen fluvii fecundi Gihon: ipse qui circumit omnem terram AEthiopiae.' - Vatable, in explaining the word Kuseh or AEthiopia, says that this must - mean the Eastern Ethiopia, 'de AEthiopia Orientali intelligit.' The - Nile or the Gejon do not environ the whole of Ethiopia or the whole of - Abyssinia, but merely a portion, which is the kingdom of Goyam." - - "It will easily be seen shortly how many false hypotheses, how many - false reasonings, have been made on the subject; however, there are - still people so obstinate of the antiquity, that they will not put - faith in those who have been on the spot, and who, having witnessed - with their own eyes, could efface what the ancients had written - about them. It was difficult and even impossible in following the - course of the Nile to go up to its source; those who undertook it - were always stopped by the cataracts, and despairing that neither - they themselves or others could succeed, they invented a thousand - stories. Let us add that neither the Greeks nor the Romans, who are - the only ones from whom we have borrowed all our knowledge, have - ever carried their arms to that side; who have not even heard - spoken of so many barbarous nations who live along this great - river; that the land where the Nile springs from, and all those in - its environs, are only inhabited by savage and barbarous people; - that to arrive there terrible mountains will have to be crossed, - impenetrable forests, deserts full of wild beasts, who hardly find - there anything to live on. If, however, those who have made so many - attempts to discover the source of the Nile had gone though the Red - Sea they might with less trouble and expense found what they were - looking for." - - -After hearing what the ancients said and thought of the sources of the -Nile, let us see what we are able to gather from the Arabs: - -The following are extracts from part of a manuscript, in the possession -of H. E. Ali Pasha Moubarek, the present Minister of Public Instruction, -Egypt. The name of the compiler is not given; only the date, 1098 A.H. = -1686 A.D. They are translated by Mr. Vandyck, teacher of English in the -Government Schools, Cairo. - - "Abu el Fadel, son of Kadama, says in his book, 'that all rivers in - inhabited countries are 228 in number. Some flow like the Nile, - from south to north, some flow from east to west, and some flow - from north to south, and some flow in more than one of these - directions, like the Euphrates and the Gihon.' He further says, 'As - for the Nile, it starts from the Mountains of Gumr (Kamar) beyond - the equator, from a source from which flow ten rivers, every five - of these flowing into a separate lake, then from each one of these - two lakes two rivers flow out; then all four of these rivers flow - into one great lake in the first zone, and from this great lake - flows out the Nile." - - "The author of the book called 'The Explorer's Desire,' says that - 'this lake is called the Lake of Likuri,[15] from the name of a - tribe in the Soudan who live around the lake, and are very - barbarous, and cannibals. From this lake flows out the river Garna, - and the Abyssinian river. After leaving this lake, the Nile - traverses the country of Likuri, then the country of - Mennan--another Soudanese tribe--between Khartoum and Nubia.'" - - "On reaching Dongola, the metropolis of Nubia, it goes to the west, - and then reaches the second zone. Here the banks are inhabited by - the Nuba, and the river has many large cultivated islands with - cities and villages, and the boats of the Nuba reach to this point - coming downward, whilst the boats of Upper Egypt reach that far - going upwards. There are there rugged rocks which prevent the ships - from passing except at high Nile. It then flows northward, and - passes east of Assouan, in Upper Egypt. It then passes between two - mountain chains which border Egyptian territory, east and west, - until it reaches Fostat; thence it flows a day's journey, and then - divides into two branches, the one emptying into the Mediterranean - at Damietta, and is called the eastern river, and the other, which - is the main Nile, passes on, and empties into the Mediterranean at - Rosetta, and is called the western branch." - - "The length of the Nile from its source is 3,748 parasangs. It is - said that it flows through uninhabited country for four months, and - through the Soudanese territory two months, and through Moslem - territory one month. No other river goes on increasing while the - other rivers are at their lowest, except the Nile, for it rises in - the dry season, when the sun is in the constellation Cancer, Leo - and Ceres." - - "It is said that this river has tributaries. Some say that its rise - is caused by snows melted in summer, and according to the quantity - of snowfall will be the greater or lesser rise. Others say that - the rise is caused by the different direction of the winds; that is - to say, that when the north wind blows strongly, it stirs up the - Mediterranean, and pushes the waters thereof backwards so that it - overflows the land; and when the south wind blows the Mediterranean - ceases to storm, and the waters that were dammed up flow away - again." - - "Others say that the rise is caused by fountains upon its banks, - that have been seen by travellers who have reached to the highest - point." - - "Others say that the Nile flows from snowy mountains, and they are - the mountains called Kaf. That it passes through the Green Sea, and - over gold and silver and emerald and ruby mines, flowing on _ad - infinitum_ until it reaches the lake of the Zingh (Zanzibar), and - they say were it not to enter into the salt sea and be mixed up - with the waters thereof, it could not be drunk for great - sweetness." - - "There is a difference of opinion as to the derivation of the word - 'Gumr.' Some say it ought to be pronounced 'Kamar,' which means the - moon, but the traveller, Ti Tarshi, says that it was called by that - name because 'the eye is dazzled by the great brightness.' This - mountain, the Gumr, extends eastward and westward into uninhabited - territory on both sides. Indeed, this whole chain is uninhabited on - the southern slope. This chain has peaks rising up into the air, - and other peaks lower. Some have said that certain people have - reached these mountains, and ascended them and looked over to the - other side, where they saw a sea with troubled waters, dark as - night, this sea being traversed by a white stream, bright as day, - which enters the mountains from the north, and passes by the grave - of the Great Hermes, and Hermes is the prophet Idrisi (Enoch)." - - "It is said that Idrisi there built a dome. Some say that people - have ascended the mountain, and one of them began to laugh and clap - his hands,[16] and threw himself down on the further side of the - mountain. The others were afraid of being seized with the same fit, - and so came back. It is said that those who saw it, saw bright - snows like white silver glistening with light.[17] Whoever looked - at them became attracted, and stuck to them until they died, and - this science is called 'Human Magnetism.'" - - "It is said that a certain king sent an expedition to discover the - Nile sources, and they reached copper mountains, and when the sun - rose, the rays reflected were so strong that they were burnt. - Others say that these people arrived at bright mountains like - crystal, and when the rays of the sun were reflected they burnt - them. Others say that Mount Gumr is a mountain on an island which - is called by this same name. Opposite to it is the land of - Serendib,[18] four months' journey in length and twenty days' - journey in breadth, and that from this mountain comes the bird - called gimre." - - "The author of the book called the 'Mirror of Ages,' says, 'Hameed, - son of Biktiari, has stated that the fountain which is the first of - all the fountains is in Mount Gumr. From this fountain start ten - rivers, one of which is the Nile. They say that the Nile traverses - the first zone, then passes into the second zone, and that the - length of it from the source to the Mediterranean is 3,000 - parasangs. Some have thought that these fountains are the cause of - the rise, whereas others say--and this is the most probable--that - the cause is the abundance of rain and torrents in Abyssinia and - Nubia, and that the delay in the rise reaching Egypt is on account - of the great distance. All other rivers flow to the south, whereas - it flows northward, and like it, Orontes in North Syria near - Hamath.' - - "Ti Farshi says that 'some astronomers state that the Nile comes - from beyond the equator 11-1/2 deg., and then flows on to Damietta and - Alexandria at 30 deg. lat. N. They say from its source to its mouth are - 142-1/3 deg. nearly, hence the length would be 8614-1/3 miles with all its - meanderings. It meanders eastward and westward greatly.' - - "Achmed, son of Ti Farshi, in his book of the description of the - Nile, says, 'historians relate that Adam bequeathed the Nile unto - Seth his son, and it remained in the possession of these children - of prophecy and of religion, and they came down to Egypt (or Cairo) - and it was then called Lul, so they came and dwelt upon the - mountains. After them came a son Kinaan, then his son Mahaleel, and - then his son Yaoud, and then his son Hamu and his son Hermes--that - is Idrisi the prophet.[19] Idrisi began to reduce the land to law - and order. The Nile used to come flowing down upon them, and they - would escape from it to the high mountains and to elevated land - until the river fell, then they would plant whatever country was - left bare. Idrisi gathered the people of Egypt and went with them - to the first stream of the Nile,[20] and there adjusted the - levelling of the land and of the water by lowering the high land - and raising the low land and other things according to the science - of astronomy and surveying. Idrisi was the first person who spoke - and wrote books upon these sciences. He then went to the land of - Abyssinia and Nubia, and gathered the people, and extended the - distance of the flow of the Nile, or reduced it according to the - swiftness or sluggishness of the stream. He even calculated the - volume of the water and the rate of flow. He is the first man who - regulated the flow of the Nile to Egypt. It is said that in the - days of Am Kaam, one of the Kings of Egypt, Idrisi was taken up to - Heaven, and he prophesied the coming of the flood, so he remained - the other side of the equator and there built a palace on the - slopes of Mount Gumr.[21] He built it of copper, and made - eighty-five statues of copper, the waters of the Nile flowing out - through the mouths of these statues and then flowing into a great - lake and thence to Egypt.' - - "Idyar el Wadi says, 'the length of the Nile is two months' journey - in Moslem territory, and four months' journey in uninhabited - country. That its source is from Mount Gumr beyond the equator, and - that it flows to the light coming out of the river of darkness, and - flows by the base of Mount Gumr.' - - "Mohammed, the Prophet of God, says:-- - - "'The Nile comes out of the Garden of Paradise, and if you were to - examine it when it comes out, you would find in it leaves of - Paradise.' - - "King Am Kaam, mentioned above, is Hermes I. The devils carried him - to this mountain, which is called Gumr, and there he saw how the - Nile flows out of the Black Sea and enters into the mountain of - Gumr. King Am Kaam built on the slopes of the mountain a palace - having eighty-five statues, to which he collected all the water - that flows from this mountain, conducting it in vaulted conduits - until the water reaches the statues and flows out of their mouths - in measured quantities and calculated cubic contents. It thence - flows in many rivers until it reaches the Great Central Lake.[22] - Round this lake is the country of the Soudan and their great city - Garma. In this great lake is a mountain which traverses it, going - out of the lake and extending north-west.[23] From this mountain - the Nile flows on a month's journey and then it divides in the land - of Nubia, one division going to the far west, and in this branch is - the greater part of the country called the Soudan--whilst the other - is the branch which flows down to the land of Egypt, and beyond - Assouan it divides into four branches and thus flows into the sea - at Damietta and Alexandria. It is said that three of these branches - flow into the Mediterranean, whereas the fourth branch flows into - the Salt Lake and thence to Alexandria. - - "It is said that the rivers Sihon, Gihon, the Nile and the - Euphrates, all start from a green jasper dome from a mountain, and - that this mountain is near the Dark Sea.[24] That the waters are - sweeter than honey, and more fragrant than musk, but that the - waters are changed in the course of the flow. - - "Sheikh Izz Edin, son of Ibn Gamar, says in his book on medicine - (and I have copied from the autograph manuscript), that the source - of the Nile is from Mount Gumr beyond the equator by 11 deg. and 20'. - From this mountain start ten rivers from various sources, each five - of which flow into a great round lake, which is distant from the - extreme uninhabited country of the west by 57 deg., and from the - equator 7 deg. and 31' to the south, and these two lakes are equal, the - diameter of each being 5 deg.. Out of each one of these two lakes flow - two rivers which empty into one great lake in the first zone. It is - distant from the uninhabited country of the west by 53 deg. and 30'. It - is distant north of the equator 2 deg.. Each one of these four rivers - empties itself separately into this great lake, and from it comes - out one single river, and this is the Nile. It passes through the - country to Nubia, and joins another river, whose source is from - another part near the equator, from a great round lake whose - diameter is 3 deg., and which is distant from the confines of inhabited - country on the west of 71 deg.. - - "After it has passed the city of Cairo, it reaches a town called - Shatanuf, where it divides into two rivers, both of which flow into - the salt sea, one of these branches being called the Rosetta River, - and the other the Damietta River. This river reaches to Mansoura, - and there branches off from it the river called Ashmun, which - empties into a lake there, and the remainder flows into the salt - sea near Damietta, and here I give a plan of Mount Gumr. - - "The historian El Gahez, in his description of countries, says that - 'the source of the river of Sindh[25] and the river Nile is from - one place,' and that he came to this conclusion because 'the two - rivers rise at the same time, and because the crocodile is found in - them both,' and that 'the kind of land-cultivation upon both is the - same.' The historian Mashi, in his 'History of Egypt,' says that in - the country of Tegala is a Soudanese tribe of the same name in - whose land gold crops up, and that in their land the Nile splits - and becomes two rivers, the one branch being the Nile of Egypt, and - the other being green, which flows eastward and traverses the salt - sea to the landing of Sindh, and this is the river called Meharaam. - - "The lake into which the water flows is called Biliha.[26] Part of - the Nile flows to the Soudan country, then passes to the east of - Kussed, and then flows along one of the mountains of this country - and comes out at the equator. Then it passes out from a lake there, - and continues going westward to the country of Laknur, and thence - northwards until it flows into the great ocean. Then it flows to - the country of Abyssinia, and thence to the country of the Soudan, - and then to the east of Dongola, until it comes upon the cataracts - of Assouan, thence it flows into the Mediterranean. - -[Illustration: MOUNTAINS OF THE MOON.--MASSOUDI, 11TH CENTURY.] - - "Makrisi says, 'There is no difference of opinion. The Nile comes - from Mount Gumr.' Makrisi also says that 'Merka-Eel, the son of - Doobar-Eel, the son of Garabat, the son of Asfusan, the son of - Adam, on coming to Egypt with a number of the tribe of Arabat, - settled in Egypt and there built the city of Assus and other - cities, and they dug the Nile until they led the water down to - them, because, before that time, it did not flow regularly, but - used to spread out over the land unto the country of King Mekronse - of Nuba. They regulated the course of the Nile and drew from it - various streams to their different cities which they had built. - They also led one stream to the city of Susan, then after the world - came out of the flood, and when time rolled on until the days of - Berdashir, the son of Bzar, the son of Ham, the son of Noah, the - flow of the Nile was again regulated a second time, after it had - been completely ruined by the flood.' But the historian Ibn - Wasifsha says, 'when Berdashir ruled--and he is the first who - became a priest and who practised magic and used to render himself - invisible--he sent the Prince Hermes to the great Lake,[27] whence - the waters of the Nile flow. It is also said that he regulated the - stream, because formerly it used to overflow in some places and not - in others.' - - "As for the place where are the copper statues, it contains - fifty-eight figures, and Hermes collected to these figures the - water that flows out of the Nile, conducting the water to them by - vaulted conduits and aqueducts, so that the water would flow to the - figures and then come out from Mount Gumr, and thence flow from - under the wall, and then pass out through the mouths of these - figures. He regulated and measured the quantity of water flowing - out, so as to allow to flow out that amount which is required for - the land of Egypt, viz., that it should rise only to eighteen - cubits, each cubit having thirty-two digits. Were it not for this - the Nile would swamp all the countries that it passes through. - - "El Welid, the son of Romah the Amalekite, was enabled to go to - discover the sources of the Nile. He occupied three years in - preparing for his expedition, and then started with a large army, - destroying every tribe he came upon. He passed through the tribes - of the Soudan, and through the gold country, and there he saw - golden sticks sprouting out. He continued journeying until he - reached the great Lake,[28] unto which the Nile flows coming from - the rivers which flow out from under Mount Gumr. He went on until - he reached the Temple of the Sun, and passed it until he reached - Mount Gumr or Kamar, which is a high mountain. He says that it is - called Mount Gumr because the moon does not shine except upon it - because it is outside of the Equator.[29] He saw the Nile flowing - out from under Mount Gumr and coming down from the rivers of Mount - Kaf. After the river traverses the Equator it is joined by waters - from a stream coming from the region of Tekraan[30] in India, and - this fountain starts from under Mount Gumr and flows in that - direction. It is said that the river Tekraan is like the Nile. It - rises and falls at the same time, and has in it crocodiles and - fishes resembling those in the Nile. - - "Some people have said that when they were there they saw neither - sun nor moon, but the only light was the light of the most merciful - God like the light of the sun. - - "Other explorers have said that the four rivers, Gihon, Sihon, the - Euphrates, and the Nile arise from one source--from a dome in the - gold country, which is beyond the dark sea, and that that country - is a part of the regions of Paradise, and that the dome is of - jasper. They also say that Hyad, one of the children of Ees, prayed - God to show him the extreme end of the Nile. God gave him power to - do this, and he traversed the dark river, walking upon it with his - feet over the water which did not stick to his feet, until he - entered that dome. This legend I have taken from El Makrisi's - book." - -The best description that I have been able to discover is by -Scheabeddin, an Arab geographer who wrote about 1400 A.D. He says:-- - - "The Isle of Mogreb (Africa) is in the midst of the seas which - water it on all sides. To the east it is bounded by the sea of - Kulzum (Red Sea); to the south and west by the ocean of which God - only knows the extent and limits; to the north it has for limits - the sea of Kharz, which is that by which the Franks came into the - Holy Land, by landing on the coast of Syria. - - "In the midst of the Isle of Mogreb are the deserts of the negroes, - which separate the country of the negroes from that of the Berbers. - In this isle is also the source of that great river which has not - its equal upon the earth. It comes from the mountain of the moon - which lies beyond the equator. Many sources come from this mountain - and unite in a great lake. From this lake comes the Nile, the - greatest and most beautiful of the rivers of all the earth. Many - rivers derived from this great river water Nubia, and the country - of the Djenawa. This river cuts horizontally the equator, traverses - Abyssinia, the country of Kuku, comes to Syene, cuts Egypt - throughout its whole length and throws itself into the sea between - Tunis and Damietta." - -Abdul Hassan Ali, ibu el Hasseyn, ibu Ali el Massoude, born at Baghdad, -and who came to Egypt 955 A.D., where he closed his accounts with the -world, and brought his many travels to an end, writes:-- - - "I have seen in a geography a plan of the Nile flowing from the - Mountains of the Moon--Jebel Kumr. - - "The waters burst forth from twelve springs and flow into two lakes - like unto the ponds of Bussora. After leaving these lakes, the - waters re-unite, and flow down through a sandy and mountainous - country. - - "The course of the Nile is through that part of the Soudan near the - country of the Zenj (Zanzibar)." - -As I finished the transcription of these interesting old legends, I said -in my heart: "As it happened unto the ancient authors, so it will happen -unto me. Why was I then more wise? I considered all travail, and every -right work--that for this a man is envied of his neighbour. Therefore I -hated life, because the work that is done under the sun is grievous unto -me--for all is vanity and vexation of spirit." - -The following was kindly translated by His Excellency Count de Landburg, -the Consul-General at Cairo for Sweden and Norway. - -[Illustration: MAP OF NILE BASIN TO-DAY, FROM MEDITERRANEAN TO S. LAT -4.] - - "Chams ed-din Abu Abd Allah Mohammed ed Dimachge (born 1256 A.D., - Dec. 1336 (31)), in his geography, _Mukhbat ed-dahr fe Ajaib - al-barr walbahr_, edited by Professor Mehren, St. Petersburg, 1866, - says (p. 88), in the chapter dealing with the four rivers of - Paradise:-- - - The scholars say about this, that the Egyptian river called the - Nile is the river of Nubia. Its springs are in the Mountains of the - Moon, which divide the inhabited land to the south of the equator, - and that on the outside from the southern unknown countries, - whereof there is no information. The number of its springs are ten - rivers, running with haste in ten valleys between high trees and - compact sands. The distance between the longest off situated - occidental is about fifteen days, and they all together flow into - two large lakes, the distance between these being four days. The - extension of the oriental lake with all its islands and mountains - is rather four days to him that passes around it, and the extension - of the occidental is about five days to him that passes around it, - and in both these lakes, and in the land that lies between the - streams above mentioned, are the wild Sudan tribes, whose nature - resembles to that of the beasts. They do eat whomsoever they - assault, and he that catches anybody of another tribe, kills him - and eats him, as the game eaten. The situation of these lakes is - from 50-56 deg. longitude from the springs of the river, and from 6-7 deg. - latitude on the south of the equator. The Oriental lake is called - _Kuku_ and _Tamim es-Sudanese_, and the occidental _Damadim_ and - _Galjur_ and _Hajami_. Farther issue from each of these two lakes - four rivers, running through populated valleys, where the Sudanese - have their settlements. These rivers are flowing near the equator - until 7 deg. latitude, and flow all together into one long and large - lake, which is called _Jawas_ and _el Jamia_ (Arab: the - 'Collector'), and which is called also _Kuri_[31] _of the - Sudanese_. Its circuit is about six days with the islands _Jawas_ - and _Kuri_, inhabited by the Sudanese. From this lake issue three - big rivers. The one flows towards the west, and is called Rhana; - another, turning to the south, flows to the east, and is called _ed - Damadim_, or the _Magid Shu of the Negroes_, and the third is the - river of Nubia, and is called _the Nile_. Its course is to the - north until it flows into the Mediterranean, as the river Damadim - flows into the Southern Sea, and the Rhana river into the Western - Ocean." - - - - -CHAPTER XXX. - -RUWENZORI: THE CLOUD-KING. - - Recent travellers who have failed to see this range--Its classical - history--The range of mountains viewed from Pisgah by us in - 1887--The twin cones and snowy mountain viewed by us in 1888 and - January 1889--Description of the range--The Semliki valley--A fair - figurative description of Ruwenzori--The principal drainage of the - snowy range--The luxurious productive region known as Awamba forest - or the Semliki valley--Shelter from the winds--Curious novelties in - plants in Awamba forest--The plains between Mtsora and - Muhamba--Changes of climate and vegetation on nearing the hills - constituting the southern flank of Ruwenzori--The north-west and - west side of Ruwenzori--Emotions raised in us at the sight of - Ruwenzori--The reason why so much snow is retained on - Ruwenzori--The ascending fields of snow and great tracts of - _debris_--Brief views of the superb Rain-Creator or - Cloud-King--Impression made on all of us by the skyey crests and - snowy breasts of Ruwenzori. - - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -June. - -Ruwenzori.] - -After the stories of the days of old, let us proceed to depict the -Ruwenzori range--which is the modern African term among the principal -tribes of the Lake regions for what was called Montes Lunae or Mons Lune -by the classical and European geographers, and by the Arab compilers of -travels as Jebel Kumr--Gumr, or Kammar--the Mountains of the Moon--as it -was seen by us. Several centuries have passed away since it was last -seen by any one capable of communicating an intelligent account of his -travels, and it may be many years will elapse before it is again seen by -any English-speaking explorer. The Nile route is closed for many a day -to come: the advance of the Manyuema, already spreading out far along -the West like an immense line of skirmishers, destroying and slaying as -they march eastward and northward, renders it very doubtful whether -subsistence would be found for an Expedition from the west; the ferocity -and number of the Wara Sura, and the treacherous character of the -Wanyoro, make it very certain that only a powerful force can ever be -able to pass through Toro; and the shifting events transpiring in -Uganda, which influence Uddu and Ankori, suggest a doubt, whether, in -defiance of Uganda, the south-east route would be practicable; and the -eastern route also presents serious difficulties. For these, as well as -for other reasons, such as the failure of so many modern travellers--Sir -Samuel and Lady Baker, Gessi Pasha, Mason Bey in 1877, our own -Expedition in 1887, and Emin Pasha in 1888--to see what ought to have -been seen, it is quite necessary that a more detailed description should -be given of this range. - -It is quite a mysterious fact that from the localities reached by Sir -Samuel Baker, Ruwenzori ought to have been as visible as St. Paul's dome -from Westminster Bridge. And any person steaming round the Lake Albert, -as Gessi Pasha and Mason Bey did, would be within easy view of the snow -mountains--provided, of course, that they were not obscured by the dense -clouds and depths of mist under which for about 300 days of the year the -great mountain range veils its colossal crown. - -Then, again, its classical history: the fables that have been woven -about it; its relation to the dear old Nile, the time-honoured Nile--the -Nile of the Pharaohs, of Joseph, Moses, and the Prophets; its being the -source whence so many springs of the Nile issue--its being the creator -of the "Sea of Darkness," Lake Albert Edward, from whose bosom the -Semliki--Nile to the West, and the infant Kafur to the East--emerge, to -feed the Albert on one hand and the Victoria Nile on the other; the very -mountain before whose shrine Alexander and Caesar would have -worshipped--if the poets may be believed; its rare appearance out of the -night-black clouds; its sudden and mysterious apparition on a large -portion of that "illimitable lake" of a modern traveller; its quaint -title--the Mountains of the Moon, so often sought in vain; its massive -and rugged grandeur, and immense altitude: all these explain why -Ruwenzori demands more than a brief notice. Who that has gazed on the -Bernese Oberland for the first time will ever forget the impression? In -my twenty-two years of African travel both discovery and spectacle were -unique, and its total unexpectedness of appearance, as well as its own -interesting character and history, appeal to me to describe as clearly -as possible, and with some detail, what we saw. - -While proceeding towards Lake Albert, in December, 1887, we obtained a -view from Pisgah of a long range of mountains, wooded to the summits, -which we estimated to be about 7,000 to 8,000 feet in height. It lay -from S.E. to S. On returning from the Lake, the same month, two enormous -truncate cones suddenly appeared into view, bearing S. -1/2. They might, we -believed, be between 10,000 and 12,000 feet high. They were called the -Twin Cones, and we thought them remarkable features. The sight of them -suggested that in their neighbourhood, or between them and the Gordon -Bennett Mountain, would be found an interesting country. - -When returning to the Nyanza for the second time in April, 1888, the -Twin Cones were invisible; but on the 25th of May, 1888, when scarcely -two hours' march from the Lake beach, lo! a stupendous snowy mountain -appeared, bearing 215 deg. magnetic--an almost square-browed central -mass--about thirty miles in length, and quite covered with snow; situate -between two great ridges of about 5,000 feet less elevation, which -extended to about thirty miles on either side of it. On that day it was -visible for hours. On surmounting the table-land, the next day or so, it -had disappeared. Not a trace of either Twin Cones or Snowy Mountain was -in view. - -On returning for the third time to the Nyanza, in January, 1889, and -during our long stay at Kavalli for two and a half months, it was -unseen, until suddenly casting our eyes, as usual, towards that point -where it ought to be visible, the entire length of the range burst out -of the cloudy darkness, and gratified over a thousand pairs of anxious -eyes that fixed their gaze upon the singular and magnificent scene. - -The upper part of the range, now divided distinctly into many -square-browed peaks, seemed poised aloft in a void of surprising -clearness, domed by a dark blue heaven as clear and spotless as crystal, -and a broad zone of milk-white mist enfolding it in the middle caused it -to resemble a spectral mountain isle sailing in mid-air--to realize a -dream of an Isle of the Blest. As the sun descended westerly the misty -zone drifted away, and the floating apparition became fixed to nether -regions of mountain slopes, and the sharply-cut outlines and broader -details might be easily traced through the binoculars. Though we were -nearly eighty miles off, we could even see ridgy fringes and tufted -clumps of trees, resting on broad ledges, or on mountain spires, or -coping some turret-like crag, which leaned over profound depths below. -We even agreed that the colour of the bare rock casques fronting the -glare of the sun, and which were aligned against the lucent blue beyond, -were of a purplish brown. We saw that the side presented to our view was -singularly steep and probably unscaleable, and that though the snowy -fields seemed to be mere patches, yet many feathery stretches descended -far below the summit of a bare ridge which intervened between the -central range and the Balegga Hills, twelve miles from us, over whose -summit, Ruwenzori, sixty-five miles further, loomed large and grand. - -It will then be understood that a transparent atmosphere is very rare in -this region, and that had our stay been as short as that of previous -travellers, Ruwenzori might have remained longer unknown. - -While we were advancing southward along the western flanks of -Mazamboni's, and the Balegga Hills, during the month of May, 1889, the -great snowy range was frequently, almost daily, visible--not in its -entirety, but by fits and starts, a peak here, a mountain shoulder -there, with sometimes only a dim visage of the crowns, and at other -times the lower parts only in view. The snow gleamed white out of a dark -and cloudy frame, or the flanks, dark as night, loomed like -storm-clouds, boding rain and squalls. At rare periods the whole -appeared with a brilliant sharp-cut clearness that was very useful to us -to map our future route. - -Yet all this time we scarcely understood its character, and not until we -had crossed the Semliki river, and had traversed a great portion of the -dense and tall woods, which thrive in the hothouse atmosphere of the -Semliki Valley, had we any intelligent comprehension of it. - -The average European reader will perfectly understand the character of -the Semliki Valley and the flanking ranges, if I were to say that its -average breadth is about the distance from Dover to Calais, and that in -length it would cover the distance between Dover and Plymouth, or from -Dunkirk to St. Malo in France. For the English side we have the Balegga -hills and rolling plateau from 3,000 to 3,500 feet above the valley. On -the opposite side we have heights ranging from 3,000 to 15,500 feet -above it. Now, Ruwenzori occupies about ninety miles of the eastern line -of mountains, and projects like an enormous bastion of an unconquerable -fortress, commanding on the north-east the approaches by the Albert -Nyanza and Semliki Valley, and on its southern side the whole basin of -the Albert Edward Lake. To a passenger on board one of the Lake Albert -steamers proceeding south, this great bastion, on a clear day, would -seem to be a range running east and west; to a traveller from the south -it would appear as barring all passage north. To one looking at it from -the Balegga, or western plateau, it would appear as if the slowly rising -table-land of Unyoro was but the glacis of the mountain range. Its -western face appears to be so precipitous as to be unscaleable, and its -southern side to be a series of traverses and ridges descending one -below the other to the Albert Edward Lake. While its eastern face -presents a rugged and more broken aspect, lesser bastions project out of -the range, and is further defended by isolated outlying forts like -Gordon Bennett Mountain, 14,000 to 15,000 feet high, and the Mackinnon -Mountain of similar height. That would be a fair figurative description -of Ruwenzori. - -The principal drainage of the snowy range is to the west, down into the -Semliki River, and south to the Albert Edward Lake. The Katonga flowing -into Lake Victoria, and the Kafur into the Victoria Nile, are both fed -from the eastern face of Ruwenzori. The Mississi River, emptying into -Lake Albert direct, rises from the northern extremity of the mountains. - -During our journey southward, through the Semliki Valley and along the -shores of the Albert Edward, I counted sixty-two streams which descended -from Ruwenzori alone, the most important being the Rami, Rubutu, -Singiri, Ramilulu, Butahu, Rusirubi, Rwimi rivers, descending to the -Semliki River; and the Ruverahi, Nyamagasani, Unyamwambi, Rukoki, Nsongi -and Rusango rivers, pouring into the Albert Edward. - -By boiling point the upper lake was ascertained to be at an altitude of -3,307 feet, and Lake Albert at 2,350 feet above the sea; thus making a -difference of level of 957 feet for about 150 miles of river. Therefore, -besides a strong current which we observed, and rapids, the Semliki -River must have a considerable number of great cataracts in its course -from lake to lake. - -The Semliki Valley is noted for its hot-house character only for some -forty miles. That portion of it exposed to the sweep of the gales from -Lake Albert seems to have but a sour soil, for the yield of it is an -acrid grass, rejected by cattle, and thin forests of acacia; but between -this and the portion of exposed lake to the upper end is a soil so rich -and so productive that would rival the best soils in the world. The -natives have long ago discovered this fact, for they have gathered in -multitudes of small tribes to clear the thick forest and plant their -banana and plantain stalks. One can scarcely travel a mile in any -direction without coming across a luxuriant, heavy-fruited plantain -grove. In no part of Africa may be seen such abundance of food, not even -in Uganda. Ten such columns as I led might have revelled in abundance. -The plantain fruit, when mature, measured from twelve to eighteen inches -in length, and thick as the fore-arm of an ordinary man. - -[Illustration: BIRD'S-EYE VIEW OF RUWENZORI, LAKE ALBERT EDWARD AND LAKE -ALBERT.] - -It occupied us sixteen days to traverse this rich forest region, -generally distinguished by the name of Awamba, after the tribe, and -during that time we had ten separate rainfalls, several of them lasting -over nine hours, while it thundered daily. Besides this, when we issued -out of the forest, and clung to the grassy foot of the range, at a few -hundred feet of altitude above it, we observed that, as far as we could -see, the forest extended unbroken, except by the numerous banana -plantations. There were many lateral depressions, marking the courses of -the streams, but few elevations of any importance, but over the whole -slowly sailed the snow-white mist in broad, irregular streams; these, in -a few moments, became joined into a universal mass, which to us, looking -down upon it, resembled an inverted sky. All this was very annoying to -us as curious sightseers, anxious to know the strange world we were in; -but it furnished suggestions as to the reason why this part was so -especially prolific, and why Ruwenzori was so coy. No winds could cool -this portion of the valley, or waft the vapours away and clear the -atmosphere from an entire corner of the compass, owing to the extent and -great height of Ruwenzori. The great mountain intercepted every breeze -from east round to south, and prevented the everlasting exhalations of -the valley from being blown in that direction, but, on their reaching -the intense cold above, distilled them, and rediffused them in copious -showers of rain. From north to west the northern range of mountains -obstructed the free passage of the winds, and assisted to maintain that -equable heat of the valley that was necessary for the fostering of that -marvellous vegetation. In every camp of this region the smoke hung over -us like a pall, smarting the eyes and half suffocating us. In such a -Nature's conservatory as the Semliki Valley, buried under its own -perpetual warm exhalations, vegetation, as a matter of course, finding -every favourable element therein necessary for its growth and -nourishment, grows in riotous profusion. Where the humus is deep we find -a tall and stately forest, with an impervious underwood of young trees, -bound together and sometimes altogether hidden by countless climbing -vines and robust plants; where the humus is thinner, as near the foot of -the range, dense crops of cane-grass, from ten to fifteen feet in -height, flourish luxuriant and impenetrable. Every tree-stem has its -green robe of soft moss, dripping with dew, and each tree-fern or -horizontal branch has its orchids, or broad elephant-eared plant. Every -rock is clothed with lichens, and if but the slightest hollow is found -in it, there will be seen a multitude of tropic plants crowding every -inch. In short, everywhere, except upon the perpendicular face of a -late-moved boulder, vegetation thrives of every variety of greenness, -form, and character. - -About a day before we finally issued out of the forest region we were -made still further aware what curious novelties in plants a natural -conservatory can produce. Between Mtarega and Ulegga we were astonished -at the huge girth of the wild banana plant, some of them being eighteen -inches in diameter two feet above the ground. The fronds were gathered -at the top of the stalk like an artificial bouquet, but presently spread -out, two feet wide and ten feet in length, forming graceful curves and a -most cooling shade, the leaves circling the flowers, which were like -great rosettes with drooping tassels. There seemed to be no limit to the -altitude at which these wild bananas grew, though we observed that their -number on the mountain slopes became more limited above 8,000 feet. The -tree-ferns, reaching as high as thirty feet from the ground, presented -themselves in a series of narrow groves along the moist hollows or near -banks of streamlets, while an untold variety of smaller ferns grew in -their neighbourhood, as though they were determined to prove their -relationship to the giants of the fern family. Then the calamus, -climbing from one tall tree to another with resolute grasp, next -attracted our attention. In the neighbourhood of such fern-groves the -trees were veritable giants, the orchids in their forks were most -numerous, and the elephant-eared lichen studded the horizontal branches, -while every tree was draped with soft green moss, beaded with dew, and -seemed sodden through excess of moisture. - -Though the forest region ends as we enter Ulegga, the interval between -it and Mtsora is so devoted to cultivation by the natives that it is -only at the latter place that we become fully aware that we have entered -a new region. Looking towards the W.N.W. we see the commencement of a -brown grassy plain, the very duplicate of that extending round the -southern end of Lake Albert. In appearance it is as flat as though the -level bottom of a lake had just appeared in view and continues thus to -the Albert Edward Nyanza. - -Between Mtsora and Muhamha we travelled along the edge of the low plain -or ancient bed of the northern portion of the Southern Nyanza, but soon -after leaving the last village we began to breast the mountains in order -to avoid the circuitous route along the plain round the promontory of -Sangwe-Mirembe. - -As we journeyed towards the south-west over these hills we observed that -in the same manner as a change had come over the character of the -Semliki Valley the slopes of Ruwenzori had also undergone a similar -change. Instead of the thick forests which climbed up the lower slopes -and covered the ravines, and wild bananas and wonderful ferneries, and -general sappiness and luxuriance of the various species of vegetation, -pastoral grass waved on every slope and crest, while a healthful cool -breeze caused us to bless our fortune in having parted from the close, -heated and moist atmosphere of the Semliki. - -But in two days' march we observed that there was another change. We -were in a much drier climate, and the superficial aspect of the country -was much as might be expected from a comparatively rainless district--it -was that of a worn-out and scorched country. The grass was void of -succulency and nutriment. The slopes of the rounded hills presented -grooves of a brick-dust colour; here and there grew a stunted tree with -wrinkled and distorted branches and ugly olive-green leaves, too surely -denoting that the best of the soil had been scoured away or consumed by -annual conflagrations, that vegetable life was derived under precarious -circumstances despite the copious showers of the rainy season. As these -hills, which constitute the southern flank of Ruwenzori, present -themselves, the plains below, between their base and Lake Albert Edward, -share their meagre, famished, treeless, and uninteresting character. -Though the vegetation differs, the gum-trees, such as the acacia, the -rigid black euphorbia, the milk weed, are indications of a lean soil and -salt-effusing earth, and in reality such is the character of the bed of -the receded Nyanza. - -In brief words, the north-west and west sides of Ruwenzori, blessed with -almost daily rains and with ever-fresh dews, enjoy perpetual spring and -are robed in eternal verdure; the south and south-west sides have their -well-defined seasons of rain and drought, and if seen during the dry -season, no greater contrast can be imagined than these opposing views of -nature's youth and nature's decay. - -There are many doubtless, like myself, who, while gazing upon any -ancient work, be it an Egyptian Pyramid or Sphynx, be it an Athenian -Parthenon, Palmyrene sun temple, Persepolitan palace, or even an old -English castle, will readily confess to feeling a peculiar emotion at -the sight. The venerableness of it, which time only can give, its -associations with men long ago gathered to their fathers, the builders -and inhabiters now quite forgotten, appeal to a certain sympathy in the -living. For its history there is a vague yearning; its age awakens -something like exultation that we little mortals can build such -time-defying structures. But more powerful and higher is that emotion -which is roused at the sight of a hoary old mountain like this of -Ruwenzori, which we know to be countless thousands of years old. When we -think how long it required the melted snow to carve out these ravines, -hundreds of fathoms deep, through the rocky cone of the range, or the -ages required to spread out the debris from its sides and bosom to cover -the Semliki Valley and the Nyanza plains, we are struck dumb at the -immeasurableness of the interval between that age when Ruwenzori rose -aloft into being; and in reply to the still small voice which seems to -ask--"Where wast thou when the foundations of the earth were laid? -Declare if thou hast understanding," we become possessed with a -wholesome awe, and can but feel a cheerful faith that it was good for us -to have seen it. - -Another emotion is that inspired by the thought that in one of the -darkest corners of the earth, shrouded by perpetual mist, brooding under -the eternal storm-clouds, surrounded by darkness and mystery, there has -been hidden to this day a giant among mountains, the melting snow of -whose tops has been for some fifty centuries most vital to the peoples -of Egypt. Imagine to what a God the reverently-inclined primal nations -would have exalted this mountain, which from such a far-away region as -this contributed so copiously to their beneficent and sacred Nile. And -this thought of the beneficent Nile brings on another. In fancy we look -down along that crooked silver vein to where it disports and spreads out -to infuse new life to Egypt near the Pyramids, some 4000 miles away, -where we beheld populous swarms of men--Arabs, Copts, Fellahs, Negroes, -Turks, Greeks, Italians, Frenchmen, English, Germans, and -Americans--bustling, jostling, or lounging; and we feel a pardonable -pride in being able to inform them for the first time that much of the -sweet water they drink, and whose virtues they so often exalt, issues -from the deep and extensive snow-beds of Ruwenzori or Ruwenjura--"the -Cloud-King." - -[Illustration: VIEW OF RUWENZORI FROM BAKOKORO WESTERN CONES.] - -Though from the nearest point to the central range we were distant -eight English miles in an air line, during the few brief clear views -obtained by us, especially that from Bakokoro, examination through a -good binocular informed us of the reason why so much snow was retained -on Ruwenzori. As will be seen from the various sketches of the profile, -the summit of the range is broken up into many sharp triangular casques -or narrow saddle-shaped ridges. Each casque, separately examined, seems -to be a miniature copy of the whole range, and dented by the elements, -time and weather, wind, rain, frost, and snow, and every side of -Ruwenzori appears to represent, though in an acuter degree, the -multitudinous irregularities of slopes and crests so characteristic of -its mighty neighbours which lie nearest to us, and are fully exposed to -the naked eye. Mostly all these triangular casque-like tops of the range -are so precipitous that, despite the everlasting snowfalls hardened by -the icy winds blowing over their exposed sides and summits, very little -snow is seen; but about 300 feet below, as may be estimated, ground more -adapted for the retention of the snow is found, which in some parts is -so extensive as to represent a vast field. Below this, however, another -deep precipice exposes its brown walls, and at the foot of it spreads -out another great field of snow joined here and there by sloping ground, -and this explains why the side of the range presented to view is not -uniformly covered with snow, and why the fields are broken up by the -brown patches. For quite 3,000 feet from the summit, as may be seen most -clearly from the view obtained from Karimi, there is illustrated a great -snowy continent enclosing numerous brown islands. - -Naturally where the crests are so steep and naked, and where the walls -of the precipices are so lofty, the rough weather to which they are -exposed contributes to their dismantling and ruinous crumbling. -Fragments of rock and tons of rocky dust and particles tumble from above -on the compressed snow-bed below, which imperceptibly moves through the -influence of thawing and undermining of the bed by the trickling water, -downwards towards the valley a league below. As it descends the thaw -increases, and the movement of the snow-bed is more rapid, until, -arriving in the neighbourhood of tropic heat, or buried in a great cloud -of tepid vapour from the valley beneath, there is a sudden dissolution -of the snow, and the rocky fragments, debris and dust, borne by the -snow, are hurled downward, crashing through the ravines and over the -slopes, until they are arrested in the valley by some obstruction, and -form a bank near the debouchure of a ravine, or are scattered over many -an acre below the smooth slope of a hill. - -Sometimes these ascending fields of snow, by the velocity of their -movements, grinding and dragging power, weight and compactness of their -bodies, cause extensive landslips, when tracts of wood and bush are -borne sheer down, with all the soil which nourished them, to the bed -rock, from which it will be evident that enormous masses of material, -consisting of boulders, rock fragments, pebbles, gravel, sand trees, -plants, and soil, are precipitated from the countless mountain slopes -and ravine sides into the valley of the Semliki. - -In front of the Rami-lulu River from the mountain there has been at one -time some such disastrous pouring of the ruins of a mountain side, so -sudden that the river was blocked, the tract there covered about six -square miles. Since that time the Rami-lulu has ploughed down to the -former solid rock-bed, and now flows between two very steep banks 200 -feet high, whence we can imagine the thickness of the debris. - -Between Ugarama and Bukoko we discovered a very fertile tract close to -the base of the mountain slope, prodigiously prolific in its melons, -pumpkins, sugar-cane and millet; the subsoil is principally gravel and -sand mixed with a rich dark loam, but the immense number of large -boulders imbedded and half buried in the earth is a striking feature, -and point to glacial influence. - -Between Bukoko and the mountains three miles away, and stretching along -their base southward for five or six miles, is another great tract -consisting of just such debris as the side of a mountain would naturally -consist in, but being principally of loose matter, it has assumed -through a long period of rainfalls a tolerably smooth gradated surface. - -If we consider these circumstances as occurring periodically since the -upheaval of the great range, and that mighty subsidence which created -the wide and deep gulf now embraced by the Albert Edward Nyanza, the -Semliki Valley, and Lake Albert, we need not greatly wonder that -Ruwenzori now is but the skeleton of what it was originally: "Dust thou -art, and unto dust shalt thou return." Its head has been shorn of much -of its glory of amplitude; its shoulders have been worn and abraded, -through its side scores of streams have channeled deep, and the ribs of -it now stand, not bare and denuded, but marking indisputably what -wearing and battering it has experienced since it was born out of fire. -Slowly but surely the mountain is retiring to the place whence it came. -A few ages hence the Albert Edward Nyanza will be a great plain, and at -a later period Lake Albert will share the same fate. Geographers of that -far-off epoch will then rub their eyes should they chance to discover -the outlines of the two Nyanzas and intervening valley as they were -described in 1889. - -[Illustration: RUWENZORI, FROM KARIMI.] - -On most days, the early hours of morning ushered into view a long, -solemn, and stupendous mass, dark as night, the summits of which -appeared to approach very closely to the cloudless grey sky. But as -toward the east the fast-coming day changed the grey to gold, faint bars -of white clouds became visible above, and simultaneously along the base -of the range there rose stealthily a long line of fleecy mist. This was -presently drawn within gaping valleys and fissures in the slopes, -wherein it ascended with the upward draught in rolling masses along the -slants of their crooked windings, gathering consistency and density as -they ascended, yet changing their shapes every instant. Detached -portions floated to the right and left, to attract unto them the -straying and scattered mists issuing one by one from profound recesses -of the chasms. Then, united in a long swaying line, robing the legions -of hill shoulders, they issued into view from every flaw and gap in the -slope, and ranged in order, it appeared as though the intention was to -rally round the immense white range above. As the mist, now dense and -deep, began to feel the movement of the air in the higher altitude, its -motion became quicker, more sudden in assuming new forms, and out of the -upper ravines a host of restless, rolling white companies joined the -main line, the foremost surging boldly ahead and leading the way, -irresistibly, skyward. - -By the time the sun is but a fourth of an hour above the eastern -horizon, and is beginning to expose the beauties that lie hid in -snow-beds upon high mountain-tops, and is playfully lavishing rainbow -colours around their borders and valances, lo! insensibly, as it were, -the mist, now formidably thick and broad, with bold and numerous -vanguards, has approached the snow, and rivals it in dazzling whiteness; -and presently, receiving full in its front the clear and strong -sunshine, excels it in glory of colour and gilding, and soon after rides -over the snow and the purple pinnacles of the range in splendid triumph. -But as minute after minute adds more mass to the mist, and the -fermenting Semliki Valley, with exhaustless power, pours forth army -after army, which hasten to join the upper ranks extended motionless -along the slopes and over every proud alpine crest, the mist loses its -beauty and splendour of colouring, and becomes like a leaden-coloured -fog, until finally, so great has been the accumulation, it becomes black -and terrible as a tempest cloud, and thus rests during the entire day, -and frequently until far into the night. Sometimes, however, a half-hour -or so before sunset, the cloud is blown away, and peak after peak, crest -after crest, snowy fields and mountain shoulders emerge in full glory -into light, and again we have a short but glorious view before night -falls and covers Ruwenzori with a still darker mantle. - -These brief--too brief--views of the superb Rain-Creator or Cloud-King, -as the Wakonju fondly termed their mist-shrouded mountains, fill the -gazer with a feeling as though a glimpse of celestial splendour was -obtained. While it lasted, I have observed the rapt faces of whites and -blacks set fixed and uplifted in speechless wonder towards that upper -region of cold brightness and perfect peace, so high above mortal reach, -so holily tranquil and restful, of such immaculate and stainless purity, -that thought and desire of expression were altogether too deep for -utterance. What stranger contrast could there be than our own nether -world of torrid temperature, eternally green sappy plants, and -never-fading luxuriance and verdure, with its savagery and war-alarms, -and deep stains of blood-red sin, to that lofty mountain king, clad in -its pure white raiment of snow, surrounded by myriads of dark -mountains, low as bending worshippers before the throne of a monarch, on -whose cold white face were inscribed "Infinity and Everlasting!" These -moments of supreme feeling are memorable for the utter abstraction of -the mind from all that is sordid and ignoble, and its utter absorption -in the presence of unreachable loftiness, indescribable majesty, and -constraining it not only to reverentially admire, but to adore in -silence, the image of the Eternal. Never can a man be so fit for Heaven -as during such moments, for however scornful and insolent he may have -been at other times, he now has become as a little child, filled with -wonder and reverence before what he has conceived to be sublime and -Divine. We had been strangers for many months to the indulgence of any -thought of this character. Our senses, between the hours of sleeping and -waking, had been occupied by the imperious and imminent necessities of -each hour, which required unrelaxing vigilance and forethought. It is -true we had been touched with the view from the mount called Pisgah of -that universal extent of forest, spreading out on all sides but one, to -many hundreds of miles; we had been elated into hysteria when, after -five months' immurement in the depths of forest wilds, we once again -trod upon green grass, and enjoyed open and unlimited views of our -surroundings--luxuriant vales, varying hill-forms on all sides, rolling -plains over which the long spring grass seemed to race and leap in -gladness before the cooling gale; we had admired the broad sweep and the -silvered face of Lake Albert, and enjoyed a period of intense rejoicing -when we knew we had reached, after infinite trials, the bourne and limit -of our journeyings; but the desire and involuntary act of worship were -never provoked, nor the emotions stirred so deeply, as when we suddenly -looked up and beheld the skyey crests and snowy breasts of Ruwenzori -uplifted into an inaccessible altitude, so like what our conceptions -might be of a celestial castle, with dominating battlement, and leagues -upon leagues of unscaleable walls. - - - - -CHAPTER XXXI. - -RUWENZORI AND LAKE ALBERT EDWARD. - - Importance of maps in books of travels--The time spent over my - maps--The dry bed of a lake discovered near Karimi; its computed - size--Lessons acquired in this wonderful region--What we learn by - observation from the Semliki valley to the basin of the twin - lakes--Extensive plain between Rusesse and Katwe--The Zeribas of - euphorbia of Wasongora--The raid of the Waganda made eighteen years - ago--The grass and water on the wide expanses of flats--The last - view and southern face of Ruwenzori--The town of Katwe--The Albert - Edward Nyanza--Analysis of the brine obtained from the Salt Lake at - Katwe--Surroundings of the Salt Lake--The blood tints of its - waters--The larger Salt Lake of Katwe, sometimes called Lake of - Mkiyo--The great repute of Katwe salt--The Lakists of the Albert - Edward: Bevwa, on our behalf, makes friends with the - natives--Kakuri appears with some Wasongora chiefs--Exploration of - the large Katwe lake--Kaiyura's settlement--Katwe Bay--A black - leopard--The native huts at Mukungu--We round an arm of the lake, - called Beatrice Gulf, and halt at Muhokya--Ambuscade by some of the - Wara-Sura near the Rukoki: we put them to flight--And capture a - Mhuma woman--Captain Nelson and men follow up the rearguard of - Rukara--Halt at Buruli: our Wakonju and Wasongora friends leave - us--Sickness amongst us through bad water--The Nsongi river - crossed--Capture of a Wara-Sura--Illness and death among the - Egyptians and blacks--Our last engagement with the Wara-Sura at - Kavandare pass--Bulemo-Ruigi places his country at our - disposal--The Pasha's muster-roll--Myself and others are smitten - down with fever at Katari Settlement--The south side of Lake Albert - Edward and rivers feeding the Lake--Our first and last view, also - colour of the Lake--What we might have seen if the day had been - clearer. - - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -June 15. - -Karimi.] - -[Illustration: PROFILE SKETCH OF RUWENZORI AND THE VALLEY OF THE -SEMLIKI.] - -Critics are in the habit of omitting almost all mention of maps when -attached to books of travel. This is not quite fair. Mine have cost me -more labour than the note-taking, literary work, sketching, and -photographing combined. In the aggregate, the winding of the three -chronometers daily for nearly three years, the 300 sets of observations, -the calculation of all these observations, the mapping of the positions, -tracing of rivers, and shading of mountain ranges, the number of -compassbearings taken, the boiling of the thermometers, the records of -the varying of the aneroids, the computing of heights, and the notes of -temperature, all of which are necessary for a good map, have cost me no -less than 780 hours of honest work, which, say at six hours per day, -would make 130 working days. If there were no maps accompanying books of -this kind it would scarcely be possible to comprehend what was -described, and the narrative would become intolerably dry. I relegate -the dryness to the maps, by which I am relieved from tedious -description, at the same time that they minister to my desire of being -clear, and are beautiful, necessary, and interesting features of the -book; and I am firmly convinced that with a glance at the profile map of -Ruwenzori, the Semliki Valley, and Lakes Albert Edward and Albert, the -reader will know more of the grand physical features of this region than -he knew of the surroundings of Lake Michigan. - -As we descend from Karimi to the basin of the Albert Edward the first -thing we become conscious of is that we are treading the dry bed of a -lake. We do not require a gifted geologist to tell us that. Five feet of -rise to the lake would increase its extent five miles to the north and -five miles to the south. Fifty feet of rise would restore the lake to -its old time-honoured condition, when its waves rolled over the pebbled -beach under the shadows of the forest near Mtsora. We find that we -really needed to pay this visit to the shores of the Albert Edward to -thoroughly understand the physical changes which have, within the last -few hundred years, diminished the former spacious lake to its present -circumscribed limits. We should be liable to censure and severe -criticism if we attempted to fix a hard and fast date to the period when -Lake Albert extended to the forest of Awamba from the north, and Lake -Albert Edward extended from the south over the plain of Makara to the -southern edge of the forest. But it does not need a clever mathematician -to calculate the number of years which have elapsed since the Semliki -channeled its bed deep enough to drain the Makara plain. It is easily -computable. The nitrous, saline, and acrid properties deposited over the -plain by the receding lake have not been thoroughly scoured out yet. The -grass is nutritious enough for the hardy cattle, the dark euphorbia, the -acacia, and thorn-bush find along the edges of the plain a little thin -humus of decayed grass; but nine-tenths of it is grassy plain, and the -tropic forest of Awamba cannot advance its borders. The case is the same -on the southern plain of the Albert. We find there a stretch of plain -twenty miles long devoted to poor grass, fatal to cattle; then we find -eight miles crossed with a thin forest of parachute acacias, with here -and there an euphorbia, and then we are in the old, old forest. - -At every leisure hour my mind reverted to the lessons which I was -acquiring in this wonderful region. Time was when Ruwenzori did not -exist. It was grassy upland, extending from Unyoro to the Balegga -plateau. Then came the upheaval at a remote period; Ruwenzori was raised -to the clouds, and a yawning abyss 250 miles long and thirty miles broad -lay S.W. and N.E. The tropic rains fell for ages; they filled the abyss -to overflowing with water, and in time it found an outlet through what -is known under the modern name of Equatoria. The outflowing water washed -the earth away along its course, down to the bed-rock, and for countless -ages, through every second of time, it has been scouring it away, atom -by atom, to form Lower Egypt and fill the Mediterranean, and in the -meantime the bottom of the abyss has been silting up with the sediment -and debris of Ruwenzori, with the remains of uncountable generations of -fish, with unnumbered centuries of dead vegetation, until now, with the -wearing away of the dykes of rock and reefs in the course of the White -Nile, two lakes have been formed; and other dykes of rock appeared -between the lakes, first as clusters of islets, then covered with -grass; finally, they caught the soil brought down by glaciers, moraines -have connected rock to rock, and have formed a valley marvellous in its -growth of tropic forest, and on each side of this forest there are -plains undergoing the slow process of crystalline transformation, and on -their lake borders you see yet an intermediate stage in the daily -increasing mud, and animal and vegetable life add to the height of it, -and presently it will be firm dry ground. Now dip a punting-pole into -the shallows at the south end of Lake Albert, and the pole drops into -five feet of ooze. It is the sediment borne down from the slopes of -Ruwenzori by the tributaries into the Semliki, and thence by the Semliki -into the still waters of the lake. And if we sound the depths of Lake -Albert Edward, the pole drops through four or five feet of grey mud, to -which are attached thousands of mica flakes and comminuted scales and -pulverized bones of fish, which emit an overpowering stench. And atom by -atom the bed-rock between the forest of Awamba and the Lake Albert -Edward is being eroded and scoured away, until, by-and-by, the lake will -have become dry land, and through the centre of it will meander the -Semliki, having gathered the tributaries from Ruwenzori, the Ankori, and -Ruanda uplands, to itself; and in the course of time, when the nitrous -and acrid properties have been well scoured off the plain, and the humus -has thickened, the forest of Awamba will advance by degrees, and its -trees will exude oil and gum, and bear goodly fruit for the uses of man. -That is, in brief, what we learn by observation from the Semliki Valley -and the basin of the twin lakes, and what will be confirmed during our -journey over the tracts of lake-bed between Rusesse and Unyampaka. - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -June 16. - -Rusesse.] - -Between Rusesse and Katwe is an extensive plain, dipping down in a -succession of low terraces to the Nyama-gazani River, and covered with -pasture grass. This terraced plain is remarkable for its growth of -euphorbia, which have been planted by generations of Wasongora to form -zeribas to protect their herds from beasts of prey and for defence -against the archers and spearmen of predatory tribes, and which thickly -dot the plains everywhere. Many of these euphorbia, that stood in -circles round the clustered huts, were venerable patriarchs, quite five -centuries old; hence we assume that the Wasongora have been established -in this region for a long time, and that they formed a powerful nation -until the Waganda and Wanyoro, furnished with guns and rifles by Arabs, -came sweeping through the land on their periodic raids. Readers of -'Through the Dark Continent' will remember the story of the Katekiro's -raid, that must have occurred about eighteen years ago, and of the -reported marvels said to have been met by the host, as they travelled -through a great plain where there were geysers spouting mud, hot -springs, intolerable thirst, immense loss of life, ruthless conflicts -between the native tribe and the Waganda, and bad water that killed -hundreds. We are now on the land which witnessed the raid of the -Waganda, and which then despoiled of its splendid herds of cattle. Since -that time Kabba Rega, with the aid of his musket-armed Wara-Sura, has -occupied the land, usurped the government of the country, and has -possessed himself of every cow. Captain Casati has informed me that he -once witnessed the return of the raiders from Wasongora, and saw the -many thousands of cattle which they had taken. - -The wide expanses of flats, white with efflorescing natron, teeming with -hot springs and muddy geysers, turned out to be pure exaggerations of an -imaginative boy, and nothing of all the horrors expected have we seen -except perhaps a dreary monotony of level and uniformity of surface -features, grass fallen into the sere through drought, and tufts of rigid -euphorbia, so characteristic of poor soil. The silence of the plain is -due to the wholesale expatriation of the tribe; thirst, because, as we -near the Lake borders, the tributaries lie far apart; sickness, from the -habit of people drinking the stagnant liquid found in pits. - -The grass of the plain grieved us sorely while travelling through it. -The stalks grew to the height of three feet, and its spikelets pierced -through the thickest clothing, and clung to every garment as we passed -by, and became very irritating and troublesome. - -The two best views obtained of Ruwenzori have been those obtained from -Karimi, up a long, narrow valley, and from the plain near the -Nyama-gazani River. The last was the farewell view, the great mountain -having suddenly cast its cloudy garments aside to gratify us once more. -In rank above rank the mountainous ridges rose until they culminated in -Ruwenzori. From the south it looks like a range of about thirty miles in -length, with as many blunt-topped peaks, separated from each other by -deep hollows. Up to this time we had estimated the height as about -17,000 feet, but the revelation of the southern face, shrouded with -far-descending fields of deep and pure snow, exalted it 1,500 feet -higher in the general opinion. I seized this opportunity to photograph -the scene, that other eyes might view the most characteristic image of -Ruwenzori. Here and there may be seen, as in the pencil sketches, the -dark patches, showing the more precipitous portions of the slopes, which -are too steep for the accumulation of snow. The greater exhibition of -snow on the southern face is due to the lesser height of the intervening -ridges, which on the north side shut out from view the snowy range. - -A few miles beyond the Nyama-gazani River, which is forty feet wide and -a foot deep, clear as crystal and beautifully cool, we entered the town -of Katwe, the headquarters of Rukara, the commanding chief of the -Wara-Sura. He and his troops had left the town the night before, and -evidently in such haste that he was unable to transport the grain away. - -The town of Katwe must have contained a large population, probably -2,000. As the surrounding country was only adapted for the rearing of -cattle, the population was supported by the sale of the salt of the two -salt lakes near it. It was quite a congeries of zeribas of euphorbia, -connected one with another by mazy lanes of cane hedges and inclosures. - - -It is situated on a narrow grassy ridge between the salt lake of Katwe -and a spacious bay of the Albert Edward Nyanza. In length the ridge is -about two miles, and in breadth half a mile from the shore of one lake -to the other. - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -June 17. - -Katwe.] - -By boiling point the Albert Edward Nyanza is 3,307 feet, the crest of -the grassy ridge of Katwe is 3,461 feet, and the Salt Lake is 3,265 feet -above the sea. So that the summit of the ridge was 154 feet above the -Salt Lake and 112 feet higher than the Albert Edward Lake, and the -difference of level between the two lakes was 42 feet. The town is -situated 0 deg. 8' 15" south of the Equator. - -[Illustration: THE LITTLE SALT LAKE AT KATWE.] - -After seeing to the distribution of corn, I proceeded across the ridge, -and descending a stiff slope, almost cliffy in its upper part, after 154 -feet of a descent, came to the dark sandy shore of the Salt Lake of -Katwe, at a place where there were piles of salt-cakes lying about. The -temperature of the water was 78.4 deg. Fahrenheit; a narrow thread of -sulphurous water indicated 84 deg.. Its flavour was that of very strong -brine.[32] Where the sand had been scooped cut into hollow beds, and the -water of the lake had been permitted to flow in, evaporation had left a -bed of crystal salt of rocky hardness, compacted and cemented together -like coarse quartz. The appearance of these beds at a distance was like -frozen pools. When not disturbed by the salt-gatherers, the shore is -ringed around with _Ukindu_ palms, scrubby bush, reedy cane, euphorbia, -aloetic plants; and at Mkiyo, a small village inhabited by salt-workers, -there is a small grove of bananas, and a few fields of Indian corn and -Eleusine coracana. Thus, though the lake has a singularly dead and -lonely appearance, the narrow belt of verdure below the cliffy walls -which encompass it, is a relief. Immediately behind this greenness of -plants and bush, the precipitous slopes rise in a series of horizontal -beds of grey compacted deposit, whitened at various places by thin -incrustations of salt. There are also chalky-looking patches here and -there, one of which, on being examined, proved to be of stalagmite. In -one of these I found a large tusk of ivory, bones of small animals, -teeth, and shells of about the size of cockles. There were several of -these stalagmite beds around the lake. - -One remarkable peculiarity of the lake was the blood tints of its water, -or of some deposit in it. On looking into the water I saw that this -deposit floated, like congealed blood, on and below the surface. A man -at my request stepped in, and at random; the water was up to his knees, -and bending down soon brought up a solid cake of coarse-grained -crystallised salt, and underneath it was a blood-red tinge. This reddish -viscous stuff gives the lake, when looked at from the crest of Katwe -ridge, a purple appearance, as though a crimson dye had been mixed with -it. - -Hundreds of dead butterflies of various colours strewed the beach. There -was not a fish seen in its waters, though its border seems to be a -favourite haunt for herons, storks, pelican, egrets. - -The larger Salt Lake of Katwe, sometimes called Lake of Mkiyo, from the -village of that name, is about three miles long, and ranges from half to -three-quarters of a mile in width, and about three feet deep. The -smaller lake is in a round grassy basin about two miles east, and is a -round shallow pool half-a-mile across. - -Every one acquainted with the above facts will at once perceive that -these salt basins are portions of the original lake occupying sunken -hollows, which were left isolated by the recession of the waters of the -Albert Edward Lake, and that evaporation has reduced the former sweet -waters into this strong brine. - -Salt is a valuable article, eagerly sought after by the tribes round -about. The reputation of this deposit had reached Kavalli, where I first -heard of the greater Salt Lake as "Katto." Flotillas of canoes come from -Makara, Ukonju, Unyampaka, Ankori and Ruanda, loaded with grain, to -barter for this article. Caravans arrive from eastern Ukonju, north -Usongora, Toro and Uhaiyana, to trade millet, bark cloth, beans, peas, -tullabun or eleusine, sesame, iron tools, weapons, &c., for it. The -islanders of Lake Albert Edward freight their little vessels with the -commodity, and with dried fish make voyages to the western and southern -shores, and find it profitable to carry on this exchange of produce. The -possession of Katwe town, which commands the lakes, is a cause of great -jealousy. The Wasongora owned it formerly, then Antari of Ankori. -Kakuri, the island chief, became heir to it, when finally Kabba Rega -heard of the rich deposits, and despatched Rukara to occupy the town. - -Our march into Ukonju had instantly caused the Wara-Sura to evacuate the -plain of Makara, and our approach to Katwe had caused a speedy flight of -Rukara and his army of musketeers and spearmen. Wakonju, to the number -of 150 men in our camp, and Wasongora were joining, and supplying us -with information gratuitously. - -In the afternoon of the first day's arrival at Katwe we saw a flotilla -of canoes approaching from an island distant about three miles from the -shore. The crews were cautious enough to keep just within hail. We were -told that they had been sent by Kakuri to ascertain what strangers were -those who had frightened Rukara and his Wara-Sura from the land, for -they had done good service to Kakuri and "all the world" by their acts. -We replied in a suitable manner, but they professed to disbelieve us. -They finally said that if we "burned the town of Katwe they would accept -it as a proof that we were not Wara-Sura." Accordingly, the villages -near the shore were fired, and the crews cheered the act loudly. - -The speaker said "I believe you to be of the Wanyavingi now. Sleep in -peace, and to-morrow Kakuri shall come with gifts to give you welcome." - -Then Bevwa, chief of our Wakonju, stood on a canoe which was in the lake -and asked, "Ah, you children of Kakuri, the great chief of the sea, do -you remember Kwaru-Kwanzi, who lent Kakuri's sons the spears to defend -the land from the Wara-Sura robbers. Lo! Kwara-Kwanzi, a true son of the -Wanyavingi, is here again. Rejoice, my friends, Rukara and his thieves -have fled, and all the land will rise as one man to follow in pursuit of -them." - -The crews clapped hands, applauding, and half-a-dozen little drums were -beaten. Then the principal speaker of the islanders said, "Kakuri is a -man who has not had a tooth drawn yet, and he is not going to have one -drawn by any Mrasura alive. We have caught a dozen Wara Sura as they -were flying from Makara because of these strangers. Kakuri will see that -they die before the sun sets, and to-morrow he will see the chief of the -strangers face to face." - -When they had paddled away, Bevwa was questioned as to these Wanyavingi. -What were they? Were they a tribe? - -Then Bevwa looked hard at me and said-- - -"Why do you ask? Do you not know that we believe you to be of the -Wanyavingi? Who but the Wanyavingi and Wachwezi are of your colour? - -"What, are they white people like us?" - -"They have no clothes like you, nor do they wear anything on their feet -like you, but they are tall big men, with long noses and a pale colour, -who came, as I heard from our old men, from somewhere beyond Ruwenzori, -and you came from that direction; therefore must be of the Wanyavingi." - -"But where do they live?" - -"Ruanda, and Ruanda is a great country, stretching round from east of -south to S.S.W. Their spears are innumerable, and their bows stand -higher than I. The king of Usongora, Nyika, was an Myavingi. There are -some men in these parts whom Kabba Rega cannot conquer, and those are in -Ruanda; even the King of Uganda will not venture there." - -When Kakuri appeared next morning he brought us gifts, several fish, -goats, bananas and beans. Some Wasongora chiefs were with him, who -offered to accompany us, in the hope that we should fall in with some -of the bands, as we journeyed towards Toro and Uhaiyana. The island -chief was a physically fine man, but not differing in complexion from -the dark Wakonju; while the Wasongora were as like in features to the -finest of the Somali types and Wa-galla as though they were of the same -race. - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -June 18. - -Katwe.] - -Kakuri was requested to bring his canoe in the afternoon, and freight -them with salt to deposit on his island, as I would have to continue my -journey eastward in a day or two. Therefore all the afternoon about 100 -islanders were busy transporting salt to Kakuri Island, and the Wakonju -who followed us did a good business by assisting them. They walked into -the lake to a distance of 100 yards, the depth being up to their knees, -and stooping down, conveyed great cakes of the crystallized salt to the -shore, and across the ridge to the canoes in the Albert Edward Lake. - -Having found a cumbrous and heavy canoe, but somewhat large, on the -19th, it was manned with twelve men, and I set out to explore. At about -11 A.M. I had got to a distance of eight miles, and halted in front of -Kaiyura's settlement, which consisted of eighty-one large huts, and was -rich in goats and sheep. Kaiyura is a Msongora, who so far remained -unconquered by the Wara-Sura. The craft that we were voyaging was too -clumsy and lopsided to venture far out into the lake, for with the -slightest breeze the water leaped in, but I was quite a mile from the -shore during most of the trip, and the lead was cast every few minutes, -but the deepest water I obtained was fifteen feet, while it sank over -three feet in a soft ooze. About 400 yards from the shore a long -sounding pole was used, and each time it dropped four feet into the -ooze, which emitted a most horrible stench, like that of a sewer, when -it came out. - -In the early part of the day the face of the Lake was as smooth as a -mirror, of a grey-green colour. The shore was remarkable for the great -number of butterflies, and many floated dead on the surface of the -water. - -There were two islands standing in the middle of Katwe Bay, and rising -about 100 feet above the water. One of them was distinguished for a -chalky-coloured cliff. They contained large settlements, and were -evidently well populated. - -On returning to Katwe I saw a great black leopard about 250 yards off, -just retreating from the Lake side, where he had been slaking his -thirst. He disappeared before we could paddle the unwieldy craft nearer -the shore. - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -June 19. - -Katwe.] - -The only advantage I derived from my day's exploration was the complete -survey of the bay, and obtaining a view beyond the headland of Kaiyura -into the chaotic and formless void. The haze was as thick as a fog, and -nothing could be distinguished further than three miles. - -On the 20th of June the Expedition marched out from Katwe, and escorted -by a large number of Wasongora chiefs and herdsmen, and our Wakonju -friends, filed to the eastward, along a path that skirted the greater -Salt Lake, and dipped down into the grassy round basin of the lesser -briny lake. Surmounting the ridge eastward of the basin, we descended -into a great plain, which evidently had but recently been covered with -the waters of the Albert Edward. Pools still existed, and narrowed -tongues of swamp, until, after a march of eighteen and a half miles, we -arrived at Mukungu, in Unyampaka, of Toro, Chief Kassesse, whose name -was made familiar to me in January 1876. - -Opposite the half-dozen zeribas of Mukungu was the long low island -called Irangara. The narrow arm of the Lake, about 150 yards across, -wound around it, and between the Islands of Katero, Kateribba, and four -or five others east of Irangara, with great floating masses of pistia -plants. Far across through the mist over the islands loomed the -highlands of Uhaiyana, and to the south we had the faintest image of -Kitagwenda, Chief Ruigi, and I knew then that we stood west of the arm -of the Lake we had called Beatrice Gulf. - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -June 20. - -Mukungu.] - -The cattle had been driven across into the Island of Irangara, -everything of value had been deported away, and a monstrous herd had but -lately left Mukungu for Buruli, urged to fast travel by the retreating -Rukara and his army. The huts of the chiefs showed that these people of -Mukungu were advanced in the arts of ornamental architecture. A house -which the Pasha occupied was one of the most ornate I had seen. The hut -was twenty feet in height and about twenty-five feet in diameter, with a -doorway brilliant in colouring like a rude imitation of the stucco work -of primitive Egyptians. The doorway was ample--six feet high and six -feet wide, with a neat arched approach. Plastered partitions divided the -interiors into segments of circles, in which were sunk triangles and -diamond figures, lines of triangles surmounting lines of diamonds, the -whole pointed in red and black. One division before the wide doorway was -intended as a hall of audience--behind the gaily-decorated partition was -the family bed-chamber; to the right were segments of the circle devoted -to the children. - -[Illustration: SECTION OF A HOUSE NEAR LAKE ALBERT NYANZA.] - -Every zeriba, besides being protected by an impenetrable hedge of -thorn-bush, had within a circular dyke of cow-dung, rising five feet -high. These great circular heaps of refuse and dung were frequently met -in Usongora, and will remain for a century to indicate the site of the -settlements, when village and generation after generation have -disappeared. - -The river-like arms of the Lake, now narrowing and broadening, swarmed -with egrets, ducks, geese, ibis, heron, storks, pelicans, snipes, -kingfishers, divers, and other water-birds. - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -June 21. - -Muhokya.] - -The next day we followed the track of Rukara and his army and droves, -and made a westerly and then northerly course to round the prolonged arm -of the Lake called Beatrice Gulf. A few years ago it must have spread to -a great distance. The plain was perfectly flat, and long reaching, -shallow, tongues of water projected far inland, which we had to cross. -As we advanced north, the hills of Toro appeared in view, and having -approached them we turned north-easterly, and after a march of eleven -miles, halted at Muhokya, a small village, equidistant from the Lake and -Mountain. The scouts in ranging around the outskirts, captured a -deserter from Rukara's army, who informed us that the Wara Sura were at -Buruli. - -On the 22nd we continued our march, a plain, level as a billiard table, -lay spread to our right, about forty feet below a terrace, over which we -were travelling, and the south-eastern flank of Ruwenzori range lay to -our left, projected into capes, terminated mostly by conical hills, with -spacious land bays, reaching far inland, between. We crossed these -little streams and two considerable rivers, the Unyamwambi and Rukoki, -the first being plentifully strewn with large round cobblestones, smooth -and polished from the powerful rolling they had received by the -impetuous torrent. - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -June 22. - -Buruli.] - -Arriving near the Rukoki, whose banks were hidden by a tall growth of -reedy cane, the vanguard suddenly received a volley from a large number -of musketeers, hidden in the thick brake. The Wasongora and Wakonju -were, unfortunately, in the van, leading the way, and these fell into a -heap in the river, their sharp spears as they frantically struggled in -their fright, more dangerous to us than the concealed enemy. However, -the loads were dropped, and in a few minutes we had two full companies -charging through the brake with admirable unconcern, just in time to see -the rear guard of the Wara-Sura breaking out of their coverts. Some -lively firing followed, but wars with natives require cavalry, for -every person seems to be on the perpetual run, either advancing or in -retreat. Some of the Wara-Sura fled south, some ran up the mountains to -avoid the pellets of our rifles. After seeing them all in full flight, -the companies returned, and we lifted our loads and resumed our march to -Buruli, whose extensive groves of banana plantations soon appeared in -view, and promised a rare supply of food. - -Just before reaching the ambuscade we had passed a slaughtered goat, -that had been laid across the path, around which had been placed a score -or so of yellow tomato-like fruit, the product of a very common bush. We -all knew that it implied we had better beware of vengeance, but the -natives, confident in us, had not hesitated to advance; nevertheless the -ambuscade was a great shock to them. - -In the afternoon the Wara-Sura were pursued by scouts, and ascertained -to be joining their scattered parties, and proceeding on an E.N.E. -course across the plain. The scouts, unable to contain themselves, sent -a few bullets after them, lending an impulsion to their flight. Their -baggage was thrown away; the sticks were seen being applied to their -prisoners, until several, frantic with fear and pain, threw their loads -away, and deserted to the arms of the scouts. Many articles were picked -up of great use that were discarded by the fugitives, and among the -prisoners was an Mhuma woman, of very pleasing appearance, who gave us -much information respecting Rukara and his vast herds of cattle. - -Early next morning Captain Nelson was despatched with one hundred -rifles, and fifty Wakonju and Wasongora spearmen to follow up the -rear-guard of Rukara, and if possible overtake the enemy. He followed -them for twelve miles, and perceiving no signs of them returned again to -Buruli, which we reached well after sunset, after a most brilliant -march. - -I was told of two hot springs being some miles off, one being near a -place called Iwanda, N. by E. from Buruli, the other, "hot enough to -cook bananas," N. E. near Luajimba. - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -June 25. - -Nsongi - -River.] - -We halted two days at Buruli, as we had performed some splendid marching -on the plains. The paths were good, broad, clear of thorns, stones, -roots, red ants, and all obstructions. At the same time, when abundant -food offered, it was unwise to press the people. Before leaving this -prosperous settlement, our Wakonju and Wasongora friends begged -permission to retire. Each chief and elder received our gifts, and -departed to our regret. Bevwa and his Wakonju were now eighty-five miles -distant from their homes, and their good nature, and their willingness -and unobtrusiveness, had quite won our hearts. - -A march of twelve miles took us on the 25th across a very flat plain, -level as a bowling-green, intersected by five streams, and broad tongues -of swamp, until about half-way it heaved up in gentle undulations, -alternated by breadths of grassy plain. Thick forests of acacia crested -these land swells, and on the edges of the subsident flats grew three -species of euphorbia, stout fan palms, a few borassus, and _Ukindu_ -palms. A little after noon we camped in a forest an hour's march from -the Nsongi River. - -It had evidently been often used as camping ground by Wara-Sura bands -and Toro caravans bound for the Salt Lakes, and as water was far, the -tired cooks used the water from some pits that had been excavated by -thirsty native travellers. This water created terrible sickness amongst -us. - -The next day we crossed the Nsongi, a river fifty feet wide and thirty -inches deep, and immediately after we began to ascend to the lofty -uplands of Uhaiyana, which form, with Eastern Toro, Kitagwenda, and -Ankori, the eastern wall of the basin of the Lake Albert Edward. We -encamped near noon on a broad plainlike terrace at Kawandare in -Uhaiyana, 3,990 feet above the sea, and about 680 feet above the Lake. - -The Wara-Sura were on the alert, and commenced from the hill-tops, but -as the advance rushed to attack they decamped, leaving one stout -prisoner in our hands, who was captured in the act of throwing a spear -by one of the scouts who had crept behind him. - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -June 26. - -Karamulli.] - -On first reaching the terrace we had passed through Kakonya and its -prosperous fields of white millet, sesamum, beans, and sweet potatoes. -Karamulli, a most important settlement lies E. by N. an hour's journey -from Kakonya. - -Soon after arriving in camp Yusuf Effendi, an Egyptian officer, died -from an indurated liver. This, I believe, was the sixth death among the -Egyptians. They had led such a fearful life of debauchery and licence in -their province that few of them had any stamina remaining, and they -broke down under what was only a moderate exercise to the Zanzibaris. - -The effects of the water drank from the pits the day before commenced to -be manifested on reaching the camp--that is, in twenty-four hours. Over -thirty cases of ague had been developed among the Zanzibaris, two of the -European officers were prostrated, and I myself felt approaching -symptoms. The Pasha's followers were reeling with sickness, and it was -reported that several were missing besides Manyuema. - -On the 27th a halt was ordered. Lieutenant Stairs was sent back with his -company to endeavour to recover some of the lost people. Some passed him -on the road attempting to overtake the column. One woman belonging to -one of the Pasha's followers was found speared through the body. He -arrived in time to save a Manyuema from sharing the same fate. These -utterly reckless people had acquired the art of evading the rear column -by throwing themselves into the grass and lying still until the officer -and his party had passed. - -Altogether the sick cases had increased to 200. Egyptians, blacks of -Zanzibar, Soudan, and Manyuema were moaning and sorrowing over their -sufferings. The Pasha, Dr. Parke, and Mr. Jephson had also succumbed to -severe attacks. - -On the 28th, led by one of the Wara-Sura prisoners, we made a short -march past the range of Kavandare. The advance and main body of the -column filed through the pass unmolested, but the rear guard was -fiercely attacked, though the enemy turned to flight when the repeating -rifles began to respond in earnest, and this proved our last engagement -with Kabba Rega's rovers called Wara-Sura. - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -June 29. - -Chamlirikwa.] - -We reached Chamlirikwa the next day, having meantime descended to the -level terrace at the foot of the eastern walls of the Albert Edward -basin, and on July 1st arrived at Kasunga-Nyanza in Eastern Unyampaka, a -place known to us in January, 1876, when I sent a body of Waganda to -search for canoes for the purpose of crossing the Lake then discovered. -Bulemo-Ruigi, the king, having heard our praises sounded by the -islanders of Kakuri, who had meanwhile crossed the Lake before us, -despatched messengers to place his country at our disposal with free -privileges of eating whatever gardens, fields, or plantations offered, -only asking that we would be good enough not to cut down banana stalks, -to which moderate request we willingly consented. - -The Pasha on this day sent me his muster-roll for the beginning of the -month, which was as follows:-- - - 44 officers, heads of families, and clerks. - 90 married women and concubines. - 107 children. - 223 guards, soldiers, orderlies, and servants. - 91 followers. - ---- - 555 - ---- - -On the 3rd of July we entered Katari settlement, in Ankori, on the -borders of the Lake. At the camp of the 28th of June symptoms of fever -developed, and numbered me among those smitten down with the sickness, -which raged like a pest through all ranks, regardless of age, colour, or -sex, and I remained till the 2nd of July as prostrated with it as any -person. Having laid every one low, it then attacked Captain Nelson, who -now was the hardiest amongst us. It took its course of shivering, -nausea, and high fever, irrespective of medicine, and after three or -four days of grievous suffering, left us dazed and bewildered. But -though nearly every person had suffered, not one fatal case had -occurred. - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -July 3. - -Katari.] - -From the camp of the 28th, above which was visible Mt. Edwin Arnold, we -skirted the base of the upland, and two days later entered the country -of Kitagwenda. By Unyampaka E. is intended the Lake shore of Kitagwenda. -The entire distance thence to Katari in Ankori is an almost unbroken -line of banana plantations skirting the shore of the Lake, and fields of -Indian corn, sugar-cane, eleusine, and holcus, which lie behind them -inland, which are the properties of the owners of the half-dozen salt -markets dotting the coast. The mountainous upland looms parallel with -the Lake with many a bold headland at the distance, varying from three -to six miles. - -We have thus travelled along the north, the north-west, and eastern -coasts of Lake Albert Edward. We have had abundant opportunities of -hearing about the south and western sides, but we have illustrated our -information on the carefully-prepared map accompanying these volumes. -The south side of the Lake, much of which we have viewed from commanding -heights such as Kitete, is of the same character as the flat plains of -Usongora, and extends between twenty and thirty miles to the base of the -uplands of Mpororo and Usongora. Kakuri's canoe-men have been frequent -voyagers to the various ports belonging to Ruanda and to the western -countries, and all around the Lake, and they inform me that the shores -are very flat, more extensive to the south than even to the north, and -more to the west than to the east. No rivers of any great importance -feed the Albert Edward Lake, though there are several which are from -twenty to fifty feet wide and two feet deep. The largest is said to be -the Mpanga and the Nsongi. This being so, the most important river from -the south cannot have a winding course of more than sixty miles, so that -the farthest reach of the Albertine sources of the Nile cannot extend -further than 1 deg. 10' south latitude. - -Our first view, as well as the last, of Lake Albert Edward, was utterly -unlike any view we ever had before of land or water of a new region. For -all other virgin scenes were seen through a more or less clear -atmosphere, and we saw the various effects of sunshine, and were -delighted with the charms which distance lends. On this, however, we -gazed through fluffy, slightly waving strata of vapours of unknown -depth, and through this thick opaque veil the lake appeared like dusty -quicksilver, or a sheet of lustreless silver, bounded by vague shadowy -outlines of a tawny-faced land. It was most unsatisfying in every way. -We could neither define distance, form, or figure, estimate height of -land-crests above the water, or depth of lake; we could ascribe no just -limit to the extent of the expanse, nor venture to say whether it was an -inland ocean or a shallow pond. The haze, or rather cloud, hung over it -like a grey pall. We sighed for rain to clear the atmosphere, and the -rain fell; but, instead of thickened haze, there came a fog as dark as -that which distracts London on a November day. - -The natural colour of the lake is of a light sea-green colour, but at a -short distance from the shore it is converted by the unfriendly mist -into that of pallid grey, or sackcloth. There is neither sunshine nor -sparkle, but a dead opacity, struggling through a measureless depth of -mist. If we attempted to peer under or through it, to get a peep at the -mysterious water, we were struck with the suggestion of chaos at the -sight of the pallid surface, brooding under the trembling and seething -atmosphere. It realised perfectly the description that "in the beginning -the earth was without form and void, and darkness was upon the face of -the deep." This idea was strengthened when we looked up to examine the -composition of this vaporous mist, and to ascertain whether we might -call it haze, mist, or fog. The eyes were fascinated with the clouds of -fantastic and formless phantasms, the eerie figures, flakes, films, -globules, and frayed or wormlike threads, swimming and floating and -drifting in such numberless multitudes that one fancied he could catch a -handful. In the delirium of fevers I have seen such shapes, like -wriggling animalculae, shifting their forms with the rapidity of -thought, and swiftly evolving into strange amorphous figures before the -dazed senses. More generally, and speaking plainly, the atmosphere -seemed crowded with shadowy, elongated organisms, the most frequent -bearing a rough resemblance to squirming tadpoles. While looking at the -dim image of an island about three miles from the shore, it was observed -that the image deepened, or got more befogged, as a thinner or thicker -horizontal stratum of these atmospheric shapes subsided downward or -floated upward; and following this with a fixed sight, I could see a -vibration of it as clearly as of a stream of sunbeams. From the crest of -a grassy ridge and the crown of a tall hill, and the sad grey beach, I -tried to resolve what was imaged but three miles away, and to ascertain -whether it was tawny land, or grey water, or ashen sky, but all in vain. -I needed but to hear the distant strains of a dirge to cause me to -imagine that one of Kakuri's canoes out yonder on the windless lake was -a funereal barge, slowly gliding with its freight of dead explorers to -the gloomy bourne from whence never an explorer returned. - -And oh! what might have been seen had we but known one of those -marvellously clear days, with the deep purified azure and that dazzling -transparency of ether so common to New York! We might have set some -picture before the world from these never-known lands as never painter -painted. We might have been able to show the lake, with its tender blue -colour, here broadening nobly, there enfolding with its sparkling white -arms clusters of tropic isles, or projecting long silvery tongues of -blazing water into the spacious meadowy flats, curving everywhere in -rounded bays, or extending along flowing shore-lines, under the shadows -of impending plateau walls, and flotillas of canoes gliding over its -bright bosom to give it life, and broad green bands of marsh grasses, -palms, plantains, waving crops of sugar-cane, and umbrageous globes of -foliage, to give beauty to its borders. And from point to point round -about the compass we could have shown the irregularly circular line of -lofty uplands, their proud hill bosses rising high into the clear air, -and their mountainous promontories, with their domed crowns projected -far into the basin, or receding into deep folds half enclosing fair -valleys, and the silver threads of streams shooting in arrowy flights -down the cliffy steeps; broad bands of vivid green grass, and spaces of -deep green forest, alternating with frowning grey or white precipices, -and far northward the horizon bounded by the Alps of Ruwenzori, a league -in height above the lake, beautiful in their pure white garments of -snow, entrancingly picturesque in their congregation of peaks and -battalions of mountain satellites ranged gloriously against the -crystalline sky. - -But alas! alas! In vain we turned our yearning eyes and longing looks in -their direction. The Mountains of the Moon lay ever slumbering in their -cloudy tents, and the lake which gave birth to the Albertine Nile -remained ever brooding under the impenetrable and loveless mist. - - - - -CHAPTER XXXII. - -THROUGH ANKORI TO THE ALEXANDRA NILE. - - - The routes to the sea, _via_ Uganda, through Ankori, to Ruanda, and - thence to Tanganika--We decide on the Ankori route--We halt at - Kitete, and are welcomed in the name of King Antari--Entertained by - Masakuma and his women--A glad message from King Antari's - mother--Two Waganda Christians, named Samuel and Zachariah, appear - in camp: Zachariah relates a narrative of astounding events which - had occurred in Uganda--Mwanga, King of Uganda; his behaviour--Our - people recovering from the fever epidemic--March up the valley - between Iwanda and Denny Range--We camp at Wamaganga--Its - inhabitants--The Rwizi Eiver crossed--Present from the king's - mother--The feelings of the natives provoked by scandalous - practices of some of my men--An incident illustrating the different - views men take of things--Halt at the valley of Rusussu--Extract - from my diary--We continue our journey down Namianja Valley--The - peaceful natives turn on us, but are punished by Prince Uchunku's - men--I go through the rite of blood-brotherhood with Prince - Uchunku--The Prince's wonder at the Maxim gun--A second deputation - from the Waganda Christians: my long cross-examination of them: - extract from my journal--My answer to the Christians--We enter the - valley of Mavona--And come in sight of the Alexandra Valley--The - Alexandra Nile. - -On the evening of July 3rd the officers of the Expedition were summoned -to my friend to assist me in the decision as to which of the following -routes we should adopt for our seaward march. They were told thus:-- - -"Gentlemen,--We are met to decide which route we shall choose to travel -to reach the sea. You deserve to have a voice in the decision. I will -give you impartially what may be said for or against each. - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -July 3. - -Ankori.] - -"I. As to the route _via_ Uganda along my old road to the mouth of the -Katonga. If, as in the old days, the king was friendly, I could take the -Expedition to Dumo, on the Victoria Lake, and I would find means to -borrow his canoes to transport us to Kavirondo, whence, after preparing -live stock and grain, we could start for Kikuyu, and thence to Mombasa. -But Mwanga is not Mtesa; the murderer of Bishop Hannington can be no -friend of ours. If we proceeded to Uganda, we should have two -alternatives before us; to fight, or give up our arms. If we did either -we should only have undergone all this trouble to uselessly sacrifice -those whom we have in our charge. - -"II. As to the route southerly direct through Ankori. In 1876 Antari, -the king, paid tribute to the King of Uganda. He pays it still, no -doubt. Scores of Waganda must be at the capital. They are clever enough -to hope that they would win favour of Mwanga if they could get a few -hundred rifles and ammunition for him. What they may not be able to -effect by fraud they may attempt to do by force. Long before we reached -the Alexandra Nile, a force of Waganda and Wanyankori would have -arrested our flight, and a decisive struggle would take place. Antari -himself is well able to prevent us marching through his territory, for -by my estimate he must be able to muster 200,000 spears, in case of an -invasion. 10,000 spears would be quite enough to stop our little force. -What he will do no one knows. With fifty Zanzibaris I could find my way -through the wilderness. With 600 such people as the Pasha has with him -attached to us the wilderness is impossible. We must, therefore, be -prepared for the worst. - -"III. The two first routes lead up those plateau walls that you see -close by. The third and last skirts for a day's march the base, and then -proceeds south to Ruanda, and through it to Uzige and the Tanganika, -whence we could send messengers to Ujiji, or to Kavalla, to bring canoes -or boats to us. We could then proceed homeward from Ujiji _via_ -Unyanyembe to Zanzibar, or to the south end of the Lake Tanganika, and -thence to Nyassa, and so down the Shire and Zambezi to Quilimane. But -long before we could reach the Tanganika every art that we know will -have been well tested. I know that it is almost a proverb with the Arab -that it is easier to get into Ruanda than to get out of it. An Arab -caravan went there about eighteen years ago, and never returned. -Mohammed, the brother of Tippu-Tib, has tried to penetrate Ruanda with -600 guns, and failed. I do not think there is force enough in Ruanda to -stop us, and if there were no other road, of course there would be no -debating as to what we should do, but go straight ahead. It is an -interesting country, and I should like to see its interesting king and -people. But it is a long journey. - -"Thus you have the shortest road _via_ Lake Victoria and Kavirondo, but -with the Waganda, with whom we must reckon. You have the next shortest -road, _via_ Ankori and Karagwe, but with Waganda and Ankori combined. -You have the longest route through Ruanda." - -After an animated discussion it was concluded to refer it to me, upon -which the Ankori route was elected. - -Accordingly instructions were issued to prepare five days' provisions, -that from the free provisions obtained from the Nyanza we might be well -into Ankori before beginning the distribution of beads and cloth to -about 1000 people, and also permission to assist themselves gratuitously -was withdrawn, and the criers were sent through the camp proclaiming in -the several languages that any person detected robbing plantations, or -convicted of looting villages, would be made a public example. - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -July 4. - -Kitete.] - -On the morning of the 4th we turned our backs to the Albert Edward -Nyanza, and followed a road leading east of south over the plain. In -about an hour the level flat assumed a rolling character freely -sprinkled over with bush clumps and a few trees. An hour's experience -of this kind brought us to the base of the first line of hills, thence -up one ascent after another until noon, when we halted at Kitete, having -gained a thousand feet of altitude. We were received kindly, and -welcomed in the name of the King Antari. Messengers had arrived almost -simultaneously from Masakuma, the Governor of the Lake Province of -Ankori, that we should be received with all hospitality and honour, and -brought by degrees to him. Consequently, such is the power of emissaries -from authority, the villagers were ordered out of their houses with -cries of "Room for the guests of Antari! Room for the friends of -Masukuma! Ha, villains, don't you hear? Out with you, bag and baggage!" -and so forth, the messengers every now and then taking sly glances at us -to note if we admired the style of the thing. We had not been long in -Ankori before we grasped the situation thoroughly. Ankori was the king's -property. The people we should have to deal with were only the -governors, called Wakungu, and the king, his mother, brothers, sisters, -uncles, aunts, &c. Ankori was a copy of Uganda. - -[Illustration: A VILLAGE IN ANKORI.] - -From Kitete a considerable portion of the south-east extremity of Lake -Albert Edward appeared in view. We were a thousand feet above it. The -sun shone strongly, and for once we obtained about a ten-mile view -through the mist. From 312-1/2 deg. to 324 deg. magnetic, the flats below were -penetrated with long-reaching inlets of the lake, surrounding numbers of -little low islets. To 17-1/2 deg. magnetic rose Nsinda Mountain, 2500 feet -above the lake; and behind, at the distance of three miles, rose the -range of Kinya-magara; and on the eastern side of a deep valley -separating it from the uplands of Ankori rose the western face, -precipitous and gray, the frowning walls of the Denny range. - -[Illustration: EXPEDITION CLIMBING THE ROCK IN THE VALLEY OF ANKORI.] - -Our course on the 5th was a steady ascent, E.N.E., to Kibwiga, at the -foot of the Denny range, Nsinda Mountain now bearing N.N.W. Opposite to -the village was Kinya-magara mountain. In the triangular valley between -these mountains the first herds of the Wanyankori were discovered. - -[Illustration: EXPEDITION WINDING UP THE GORGE OF KARYA-MUHORO.] - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -July 7. - -Kibwiga.] - -We travelled in very close and compact order on the 7th up the pass -between the ranges of Kinya-magara and Denny, and having gained the -altitude of 6160 feet, the summit of Kinya-magara, and felt uncommonly -chilled by the cold winds, we descended 800 feet down the eastern slope -of the range to the chief village of Masakuma, the Governor of the Lake -Province of Ankori. - -We found Masakuma to be a genial old fellow. With all our doings with -the Wara-Sura he was well acquainted, and at a great and ceremonious -meeting in the afternoon he insisted that we should tell our story, that -his sub-chiefs and elders might hear how the Wanyoro were beaten at -Mboga, Utuku, Awamba, Ukonju, Usongora, and were clean swept from Toro. -"There," said he, "that is the way the thieves of Unyoro should be -driven from all the lands which they have plundered. Ah, if we had only -known what brave work was being done we should have gone as far as Mruli -with you," which sentiment was loudly applauded. - -The women of the chief then came out dressed with bead-worked caps and -bead tassels, and a thick roll of necklaces and broad breast-ornaments -of neat bead-work, and paid us the visit of ceremony. We had to undergo -many fine compliments for the good work we had accomplished, and they -begged us to accept their expressions of gratitude. "Ankori is your own -country in future. No subject of Antari will refuse the right hand of -fellowship, for you proved yourselves to be true Wanyavingi." - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -July 8. - -Kibwiga.] - -Then the elders, grey-haired, feeble men, smitten with age, and in their -dotage advanced, and said, with the two hands spread out, palm upward, -"We greet you gladly. We see to-day, for the first time, what our -fathers never saw, the real Wachwezi, and the true Wanyavingi. Look on -them, oh people; they are those who made Kabba Rega run. These are they -of whom we heard that the Wara-Sura at the sight of them showed their -backs, and fled as though they had wings to their feet." - -Little did we anticipate such a reception as this from Ankori when we -debated, on the evening of July 3rd, what road we should take. And -though the terms Wachwezi and Wanyavingi did not seem to be very -euphonious, they were clearly titles of honour, and were accompanied -with an admiring regard from the chief Masakuma to the half-nude slave -women, who carried water and performed chores all day. - -On the following day over 300 bunches of bananas and several pots of -banana wine were brought us as our rations during our stay. Deputations -from the neighbouring settlements also came, and the story of the chase -of the Wara-Sura, and the deliverance of the Salt Lakes were retold them -by Masakuma, and we were publicly thanked again for our services. -Indeed, considering how many tribes were affected by our interference, -we were not surprised at the general joy manifested. The story was the -"open sesame" to the riveted attention and affection of the Wanyankori. - -Near sunset the runners despatched to the capital reappeared with a -message from the king's mother, which, though diplomatic, was well -understood by us. It ran as follows:-- - -"Masakuma will furnish you with guides to show you the road to Karagwe. -Food will be given you at every camp so long as you are in Ankori. Goats -and cattle will be freely given to you. Travel in peace. The king's -mother is ill now, but she hopes she will be well enough to receive you -when you again revisit the land. For from to-day the land is yours, and -all that is in it. Antari, the king, is absent on a war, and as the -king's mother is ill and confined to her bed, there is none worthy to -receive you." - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -July 10. - -Katara.] - -It appeared that at the capital our prowess and numbers had been -exaggerated, from the reports of Bevwa and Kakuri; our long column in -single file was also imposing. The terrible Maxim machine gun also -contributed a moral influence, and the fact that the Wanyoro, or -Wara-Sura, had been chased out of so many countries, and that Ruigi, -King of Kitagwenda, had also spoken in our favour, coupled with the -nature of the service which had caused so many canoe cargoes of salt to -be disposed of at small cost; and, therefore, though the royal family -were disposed to be cordial and kind, they were not wholly without fear -that the party which had marched through southern Unyoro might in some -manner be a danger to Ankori. - -Poor king's mother; had she known how secretly glad I was with the best -message that I received in all Africa, she need not have entertained any -anxiety respecting the manner in which her message would be received. -For though we were tolerably well supplied with native cloth and beads, -we were poor in gifts worthy of royalty of such pretensions as those of -Ankori. - -The country is said to be infested with lions and leopards, but we had -heard nothing of them during the night. A hyaena, however, broke into our -campfold on the first night at Masakuma's, and dragged away a goat. - -Two days' short marches of four and three-quarters and three hours -respectively, enabled us to reach Katara on the 11th of July. Our road -had led through a long winding valley, the Denny range on our right and -the Ivanda on our left. The streamlets we now crossed were the sources -of the Rusango, which, flowing north towards the Edwin Arnold Mt., meet -the Mpanga flowing south from the Gordon Bennett and Mackinnon Cones. -The Mpanga we crossed as we marched parallel with the eastern shore of -the Lake Albert Edward. - -Soon after arrival in camp two Waganda Christians named Samuel and -Zachariah, with an important following, appeared by the permission of -Antari. After greeting us, they said they wished to impart some -information if I could grant them a quiet hour. Expectant of the usual -praises of their king Mwanga, which every loyal Mganda, as I knew him, -was very prone to utter, we deferred the interview until evening. They -delivered a packet of gunpowder and percussion caps, the property of a -Manyuema, to me, which they had picked up on the road. This act was in -their favour, and I laid it down near my chair, but within a few minutes -it had been abstracted by a light-fingered Moslem. - -When evening came Zachariah took upon himself to relate a narrative of -astonishing events which had occurred in Uganda last year. King Mwanga, -the son of Mtesa, had proceeded from bad to worse, until the native -Mohammedans had united with the Christians, who are called "Amasia," to -depose the cruel tyrant because of his ruthless executions. The -Christians were induced to join the Mohammedans--proselytes of the Arab -traders--unanimously, not only because of Mwanga's butcheries of their -co-religionists, but because he had recently meditated a wholesale -massacre of them. He had ordered a large number of goats to be carried -on an island, and he had invited the Christians to embark in his canoes -for their capture. Had they accepted his invitation, his intention had -been to withdraw the vessels after the disembarkation, and to allow them -to subsist on the goats, and afterwards starve. But one of the pages -betrayed his purposes, and warned the Christian chiefs of the king's -design. Consequently they declined to be present. - -The union of these two parties in the kingdom of Uganda was soon -followed by a successful attempt to depose him. Mwanga resisted for a -time with such as were faithful to him, but as his capitals, Rubaga and -Ulagalla, were taken, he was constrained to leave the country. He -departed in canoes to the south of Lake Victoria, and took refuge with -Said bin Saif _alias_ Kipanda, a trader, and an old acquaintance of mine -in 1871, who was settled in Usukuma. Said, the Arab, however, -ill-treated the dethroned king, and he secretly fled again, and sought -the protection of the French missionaries at Bukumbi. Previous to this -it appears that both English and French missionaries had been expelled -from Uganda by Mwanga, and deprived of all their property except their -underclothing. The French settled themselves at Bukumbi, and the English -at Makolo's, in Usambiro, at the extreme south end of Lake Victoria. - -After Mwanga's departure from Uganda, the victorious Moslem and -Christian proselytes elected Kiwewa for their king. Matters proceeded -smoothly for a time, until it was discovered that the Moslem party were -endeavouring to excite hostility against the Christians in the mind of -the new King. They were heard to insinuate that, as England was ruled by -a queen, that the Christians intended to elevate one of Mtesa's -daughters on the throne occupied by Kiwewa. This king then leaned to the -Moslems, and abandoned the Christians, but they were pleased to express -their doubts of his attachment to them and their faith, and would not be -assured of it unless he formally underwent the ceremony of circumcision. -The necessity of this Kiwewa affected not to understand, and it was then -resolved by the Moslems to operate on him by force, and twelve Watongoli -(colonels) were chosen to perform the operation. Among these colonels -was my gossip, Sabadu, to whom I was indebted for the traditional -history of Uganda. Kiwewa was informed of their purpose, and filled his -house with armed men, who, as the colonels entered the house, were -seized and speared one by one. The alarm soon spread through the -capital, and an assault was instantly made on the palace and its court, -and in the strife Kiwewa was taken and slain. - -The rebels then elected Karema to be King of Uganda, who was a brother -of the slain Kiwewa and the deposed Mwanga, and he was the present -occupant of the throne. - -The Christians had repeatedly attacked Karema's forces, and had -maintained their cause well, sometimes successfully; but at the fourth -battle they were sorely defeated, and the survivors had fled to Ankori -to seek refuge with Antari, who, it was thought, would not disdain the -assistance of such a force of fighting men in his various troubles with -Mpororo and Ruanda. There were now about 2,500 Christians at Ankori's -capital, and about 2,000 scattered in Uddu. - -Having heard that Mwanga had become a Christian, and been baptised by -the French missionaries during his stay with them in Bukumbi, the -Christians tendered their allegiance to him, and he came to Uddu to see -them, in company with an English trader named Stokes; but, as the means -of retaking the throne were small, Mwanga took possession of an island -not far from the Murchison Bay, and there he remains with about 250 -guns, while Stokes, it is believed, had returned to the coast with ivory -to purchase rifles and ammunition at Zanzibar in the cause of Mwanga. Up -to this date the mainland of Uganda was under Karema, while the islands -recognised Mwanga, and the entire flotilla of Uganda, mustering several -hundred canoes, was at the disposition of the latter. - -They then informed me that their appearance in my camp was due to the -fact that while at the capital they had heard of the arrival of white -men, and they had been sent by their compatriots to solicit our -assistance to recover the throne of Uganda for Mwanga. - -Now, as this king had won an unenviable reputation for his excesses, -debaucheries, his executions of Christians in the most vile and -barbarous manner, and as he was guilty of causing Luba, of Usoga, to -murder Bishop Hannington and massacre over sixty of his poor Zanzibari -followers, though the story of Zachariah and Samuel was clear enough, -and no doubt true, there were strong reasons why I could not at once -place implicit credence in the conversion and penitence of Mwanga, or -even accept with perfect faith the revelations of the converts. I had -too intimate a knowledge of the fraudulent duplicity of Waganda, and -their remarkable gifts for dissimulation, to rush at this prospective -adventure; and even if I were inclined to accept the mission of -reinstating Mwanga, the unfulfilled duties of escorting the Pasha, and -his friend Casati, and the Egyptians, and their followers to the sea -prohibited all thoughts of it. But to African natives it is not so easy -to explain why their impulsive wishes cannot be gratified; and if -Kiganda nature remained anything similar to what I was acquainted with -in 1876, the Waganda were quite capable of intriguing with Antari to -interrupt my march. No readers of my chapters on the Waganda in 'Through -the Dark Continent' will doubt this statement. I therefore informed -Zachariah and Samuel that I should think of the matter, and give them my -final answer on reaching some place near the Alexandra Nile, where -supplies of food could be found sufficient for the party which I should -be obliged to leave behind in the event of my conforming to their wish, -and that it would be well for them to go back to the Waganda, ascertain -where Mwanga was at that time, and whether there was any news of Mr. -Stokes. - -At Katara, Mohammed Kher, an Egyptian officer, died. Abdul Wahid Effendi -had chosen to remain behind at Kitega, and Ibrahim Telbass and his -followers had, after starting from Kitega, vanished into the tall grass, -and, it may be presumed, had returned to remain with his sick -countryman. - -Our people were now recovered somewhat from that epidemic of fevers -which had prostrated so many of us. But the Pasha, Captain Casati, -Lieutenant Stairs, and Mr. Jephson were the principal sufferers during -these days. The night before we had slept at an altitude of 5,750 feet -above the sea. The long Denny Range was 700 feet higher, and on this -morning I observed that there was hoar frost on the ground, and during -this day's march we had discovered blackberries on the road bushes, a -fruit I had not seen for two decades. - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -July 11. - -Wamaganga.] - -On a third march up the valley we had followed between Iwanda and Denny -Range; we reached its extremity, and, crossing a narrow neck of land, -descended into the basin of the Rwizi. By degrees the misty atmosphere -of this region was clearing, and we could now see about five miles -distance, and the contour of the pastoral plateau of Ankori. It was not -by any means at its best. It was well into the droughty season. The dry -season had commenced two months previously. Hilly range, steep cone, -hummock, and plain were clothed with grass ripe for fire. The herds were -numerous, and all as fat as prize cattle. In the valley between the -Denny and Iwanda ranges, we had passed over 4,000 cattle of the -long-horned species. The basin of the Rwizi, which we were now in, and -which was the heart of Ankori, possessed scores of herds. - -We camped at Wamaganga on the 11th. Its inhabitants consist of Watusi -herdsmen and Wanyankori agriculturists. They represent the two classes -into which the people of Ankori are divided, and, indeed, all the tribes -of the pastoral regions, from the Ituri grass-land to Unyanyembe, and -from the western shores of the Victoria Lake to the Tanganika. The -Watusi women wore necklaces of copper bells, and to their ankles were -attached circlets of small iron bells. The language was that of Unyoro, -but there was a slight dialectic difference, and in their vocabulary -they had an expressive word for gratitude. "Kasingi" was frequently used -in this sense. - -One of our men, whom we greatly regretted, died at this place of illness -which ended in paralysis, and another, a Nubian, disappeared into the -tall grass and was lost. - -On the 12th we marched along the Rwizi, and after an hour and a half -crossed the stream, which had now spread into a swamp a mile wide, -overgrown with a flourishing jungle of papyrus. Our drove of cattle was -lessened by twenty-four head in crossing this swamp. An hour's distance -from the terrible swamp we camped in the settlement of Kasari. - -The King's mother sent us four head, and the King three head of cattle -and a splendid tusk of ivory, with a kindly message that he hoped he and -I would become allied by blood-brotherhood. Among the messengers -employed was a prince of the blood-royal of Usongora, a son of King -Nyika, as pure a specimen of Ethiopic descent as could be wished. The -messengers were charged to escort us with all honour, and to provide for -our hospitable entertainment on the way. - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -July 12. - -Kasari.] - -Though it is very economical to be the guest of a powerful African king, -it has its disadvantages, for the subjects become sour and discontented -at the great tax on their resources. They contrive to vex us with -complaints, some of which are fabricated. Our men also, emboldened by -their privileges, assume far more than they deserve, or are entitled to -in strict justice. They seized the milk of the Wanyankori, and it is -considered to be a great offence for a person who is accustomed to eat -vegetables to put his lips to a milk vessel, and a person who cooks his -food is regarded as unfit to touch one, as it causes the death of cattle -and other ill effects. Seven of our men were charged with these awful -crimes, and the herdsmen, who are as litigious as the Aden Somalis, came -in a white heat to prefer their complaints. It cost me some -inconvenience to judge the people and soothe the wounded feelings -provoked by such scandalous practices. - -On the 14th we arrived at Nyamatoso, a large and prosperous settlement, -situated at the northern base of the Ruampara range, when orders were -issued to provide seven days' rations of banana flour, because of the -abundance of this fruit in the vicinity. - -Mpororo is S.S.W. from this place. A few years ago Antari advanced and -invaded it, and after several sanguinary encounters the people and their -king became tributary to him. Ruanda begins from a line drawn to the -W.S.W., and is ruled over by King Kigeri. Not much information could be -gleaned respecting it, excepting that it was a large country, described -as equal from Nyamatoso to Kafurro. The people were reported to be -numerous and warlike, allowing no strangers to enter, or if they enter -are not allowed to depart. - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -July 14. - -Nyamatoso.] - -One of our officers, feeble from many fever attacks, animadverted -fiercely against the Wanyankori on this day, and I repeat this incident -to illustrate the different views men take of things, and how small -events prejudice them against a race. He said, "Yesterday you know the -sun was scorchingly hot, and the heat, the long march, and a slight -fever, made me feel as if I would give anything for a drink of cool -water. I came to that little village on the plain, and I asked a man, -who was insolently regarding us, and standing before the door of his -hut, to give me a little water to drink. Do you think he did so? He -pointed to the swamp, and with his spear to the black ooze, as if to -say, 'There you are, help yourself to what you want!' How can you call -these people a fine race? I don't understand where you get your ideas -from. Is that fine, to refuse a man a drink of water? If that man had -what he deserved--ah, well, it is no use talking." - -"My dear good fellow," I answered, "have a little patience, and I will -show you another view that might be taken of that man. Have you lost -your pocket mirror? If you have, I will lend you mine, and you will see -a most ungracious face, garnished with bristles, something like a thin -copy of William de la Marck unshaved, half starved, and sick. Your eyes -appear smaller than ever, and look lustreless and dead. Your lanky body -is clothed in rags. When you were in London I was charmed with your -appearance. Adonis was nothing to you, but now, alas! excuse me, we have -all a most disgraceful appearance; but you, when you have a fever! Well, -look in a glass, and examine yourself! Now this native saw such a man, -with such an unlovely aspect, coming to him. How did you ask him? Did -you give him one of your charming smiles, that would make a buffalo -pause in his charge; I doubt it. You were tired, feverish, thirsty--you -said imperiously, 'Give me a drink of water,'--and your manner -added--'instantly or----.' Why should he, a freeman, before his own -doorway obey such a command? He did not know you from Adam, and probably -your appearance suggested it would not be pleasant to cultivate your -acquaintance. Are you going to join the clique of travellers who can -never recognise the good that is in Africa and the Africans? To your -utter confusion, unfortunate man, let me tell you the story of an -occurrence that happened yesterday to one of your own personal friends. -The man of whom he tells the story was probably a brother or a cousin of -this same individual who has incurred your severe displeasure. - -"This officer had a bad attack of fever; he was seized with a vertigo, -he reeled, and sank in the grass by the wayside. The rear guard -commander saw him not, and passed him by, little thinking a sick comrade -lay fainting and almost unconscious near him. By-and-by a native warrior -came armed with spear, bow, and arrows. He saw there was something in -the grass. He went to the spot and saw one of our officers, helplessly -lying before him. If he were a brute he might have driven that sharp -spear of his into him, and we should have lost one of our number. But -this man, listen, did nothing of the kind; and though he had never heard -the story of the kindly Samaritan, went away, and in half-an-hour -returned with a half-gallon, gourd filled with fresh and cool milk, and -gave it to him to drink, and in a short time our friend rose up -strengthened, and marched to camp to tell me the kindly story. No Red -Cross official he; to the kindly sentiments of charity and mercy dinned -into the ears of the English race for sixteen centuries he was an utter -stranger. This is not like that English missionary who refused that -Dutch captain, of whom we have heard, the drink of water, and therefore -the race that can show one instance of such human kindness deserves to -be called a fine race. Do you doubt the story? Here is our friend; ask -him yourself. - -"Besides, think of the hospitality we receive from them. A thousand men -subsisting freely and gratuitously on the produce of their plantations, -and their fields; plantains, beans, millet, sweet potatoes for food, -tobacco to smoke, and a free road, without levy of tax or blackmail! -How do you know that that man had not been vexed by many things before -you came? Perhaps some of our men had gibed at him in scorn, or looted -his house, or threatened his family just before you came. Come, try -again. Go into any of these villages about here. Ask kindly and -smilingly for anything--milk, butter, or tobacco--and I will guarantee -you will not be refused. - -"And remember again, this country has only lately been conquered by -Antari. I am told that the king took forty women belonging to the chiefs -hereabouts, and distributed them as gifts to his bravest warriors, and -that all the principal chiefs were afterwards killed, and I do not -wonder that they resent the king laying such a tax upon them as the -provisioning of this multitude with us, and if you will observe the -conduct of the king's messengers you will find that it is very -tyrannical and overbearing, and very little calculated to increase their -estimation of us." - -The Expedition proceeded up a pass in the pastoral range of mountains -called Ruampara, the western end of which I think abuts the line of -hills that bound the Albert Edward basin, and divides the basin of the -Rwizi from the Alexandra Nile, and after crossing several airy mountain -tops, descended into the bowl-like valley of Rusussu, whence rises the -stream Namianja. Here we halted three days to refresh the people. - -Under date the 20th of July I find the following note in my diary:-- - - "This morning the fever that laid me low passed away. I have been a - little premature in saying that we were recovering from the ill - effects of that Usongora pit-water. No sooner is one of us well - than another is prostrated. The Pasha and I have been now three - times down with severe fever at the same time. Stairs' fever left - him yesterday. Bonny's temperature has been normal the last two - days. Casati fell ill on the 17th, was abed all day on the 18th, - and was up on the 19th. This is the way we exist now. There are - constant relapses into fever, with two or three days of insecure - health in the interval. Khamis Wadi Nassib has also died of - paralysis; and a Nubian has disappeared. - - "Four Egyptian officers have begged me, on account of their - increasing ulcers, to be permitted to stay in Ankori. As we are - already loaded with sick whites and other Egyptians, feeble old - women and children, I am obliged to yield to their entreaties, and - they and their families will therefore stay here. As I expect the - Heir-apparent of Ankori daily to go through the process of - blood-brotherhood, I will be able to provide for their comfort. - - [Sidenote: 1889. - - July 20. - - Rusussu.] - - "It is a peculiar climate, this of Ankori. The cold gusty winds - sweeping from E. to S.E., and then N.E., create chest affections; - there is universal coughing, catarrhs, headaches; the great - variation between maximum and minimum temperature makes us all - unusually feverish. Yet I remember, in Jan., 1876, my followers and - myself were healthy and vigorous while crossing North Ankori, and - my private journals contain no notes like these I jot down daily. - Perhaps this excessive sickness is owing to the season, or to that - deadly pit-water, or it may be our cooks employ the black water of - the Rwizi, which drains a putrefying compost. It is the winter - season now, whereas January is spring. - - "Dangers have less charms for the ear than distance creates for the - eye. The former is too often exaggerated out of all proportion to - the reality by the unrestrained tongue, while the latter, though - often hiding the hideousness of ravines, and the inaccessibility of - mountains or abysmal depths, glozes the whole with grace, flowing - contours, and smooth lines. We have frequently found it to be so on - this Expedition, and I fear the Egyptians who have disappeared from - the column, un-recommended by us, will find the dangers far more - real than they imagined would be the case as we repeated our - frequent warnings." - -On the 21st we resumed our march, and proceeded to follow a road that -ran down the valley parallel with the Namianja. Thistles of unusual -size, some sunflowers, and blackberry bushes lined the path. The stream -has three sources, a tiny thread of sweet water rising from a ferny -recess, a pool of nitrous and sulphurous water, and a little pond of -strong alkaline water. At the end of three hours' march the stream was 5 -feet wide, but its flavour was not much improved. Banana plantations -alternated with cattle-folds along the path. - -The next day we started at dawn to continue our journey down the -Namianja Valley, which is narrow and winding, with spacious plats in the -crooked lines of mountains. In an hour we turned sharply from E. by N. -to S.E. by S. down another valley. Herd after herd of the finest and -fattest cattle met us as they were driven from their zeribas to graze on -the rich hay-like grass, which was green in moist places. After a short -time the course deflected more eastward, until we gained the entrance of -a defile, which we entered, to ascend in half an hour the bare breast of -a rocky hill. Surmounting the naked hill, we crossed its narrow summit, -and descended at once its southerly side, into a basin prosperous with -banana plantations, pasture, and herds, and took refuge from the glaring -and scorching sun in Viaruha village. - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -July 21. - -Namianja.] - -The rear-guard were disconcerted on leaving Namianja Valley by the -hitherto peaceful natives turning out suddenly _en masse_ with -war-cries, and with very menacing gestures. They advanced to the attack -twice, without, however, doing more than levelling their spears and -threatening to launch them. On the third advance, conceiving that the -guard must be terribly frightened by their numbers, they shot some eight -or ten arrows, at which the Commander ordered a few harmless shots to be -fired, and this sufficed to send them scampering with loud cries up the -hills. - -Close behind the rear-guard, but unknown to them, were advancing -Uchunku, the Prince Royal of Ankori, and his escort of musketeers and -spearmen, and a second deputation from the Waganda Christians. The -Prince, in obedience to his father, was on his way to our camp to -exchange blood and form a treaty with me. The Prince, hearing the shots, -demanded to know the reason, and some of the Wahuma herdsmen, who had -been spectators of the hostile play, explained, upon which the -musketeers were sent in chase, killed two of the Wanyankori, and -disarmed twenty of them. - -At 2 P.M. Prince Uchunku and escort reached Viaruha, and instantly -requested an interview. He was a sweet-faced, gentle looking boy of -about thirteen or fourteen years old, a true Mhuma with the Abyssinian -features. He was accompanied by his governor, or guardian, an officer in -command of the spearmen and carbine-armed guards of the Prince. He gave -us two large steers; one had such massive and long horns, that made it -but a poor traveller, and had to be slaughtered for beef. The usual -friendly speeches were exchanged, and after he had fairly satisfied his -curiosity with viewing the strange sights in camp, it was arranged that -the ceremony should take place on the next day. - -On the 23rd the ceremony passed off with considerable eclat. The -Zanzibaris, Soudanese, and Manyuemas were all under arms ready to salute -the Prince with a few discharges from their rifles, at the face of the -hill, about 400 yards away. The Maxim was also in order to assist with -its automatic action. - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -July 23. - -Viaruha.] - -The rite of blood brotherhood began with the laying of a Persian carpet, -upon which the Prince and I took our seats cross-legged, with left hands -clasped across the knees. The Professors of the Art advanced, and made -an incision in each left arm, and then each Professor took a small -portion of butter, and two leaflets, which served as platters, mixed it -with our blood, and then exchanging the leaves, our foreheads were -rubbed with the mixture. The ceremony was thus relieved of the -repulsiveness which accompanies it when performed among the Congo -tribes. Then the Prince, who was now my young brother, took me by the -hand into my hut to smile and to look pleased. His young heart was made -glad with some choice Cairene cloths, a necklace contributed by the -Egyptian women and the Pasha, of fine large beads, which captured his -affection by storm. His governor received a cow, and the guardsmen -received an ox to feast themselves with beef, and the Prince had, in his -turn, to give a fine goat to our Professor, for these offices, even in -Congo land, are in high honour, and must receive handsome fees. - -The rifles then fired five rounds each, to the boy's great admiration, -but the showers of the Maxim and the cloud of dust raised by the bullets -on the face of the opposite hill simply sent him into ecstasies, and to -prevent him crying his soul out in rapture, he laid his hand firmly over -his mouth. Opinions differed as to the reason of his covering his mouth, -and even in jest it is not good to be untruthful, but some said that he -feared his fine teeth would be snapped in pieces by excessive chattering -in terror, but I firmly maintain that it was from childlike wonder and -pleasure. - -At any rate, I was publicly recognised as a son of Ankori, to be -hereafter permitted to range at will throughout the dominions of Antari, -with right of residence, and free access to every plantation in the -kingdom. Furthermore, the Prince swore in his father's name, for so he -was commanded, that all white men entering Ankori must have a -recommendation from me, and then such kindness would be shown to them as -would be shown to me personally. Only the cattle, goats, and weapons -were exempted as private property, over which the king even has no -right, except when they belong to criminals. - -With the Prince of Ankori was a second deputation from the Waganda -Christians. The result of my long cross-examination of them I embodied -in the following entry in my journal:-- - - "I feared I first heard of the expulsion of the missionaries from - Uganda that they had been inconsiderate, and impulsive, and acted - regardless of consequences, that though their conduct was strictly - upright and according to their code, their narrowness and want of - sympathy had caused them to commit errors of judgment; but the - Christian converts gave them an excellent character, and repeated - much of the good advice Mr. Mackay had bestowed on them, which were - undoubted proofs that though the yoke of Mwanga was exceedingly - heavy to them, the missionaries had in this abstained from meddling - in the politics of the country. Something like L50,000 must have - been expended on this mission since it was established. Were the - story of it truthfully written it would contain in itself all that - is needed to guide those interested in it. The tragic deaths of - Smith, O'Neil, Penrose, and Bishop Hannington, the mortal diseases - which cut off Dr. Smith, and, as Zachariah tells me, two more, one - of whom is called Bishop, the almost fruitless residence in Uganda - of Messrs. Wilson, Pearson, and Felkin, the splendid successes of - Mackay, and the industry and devotion of Ashe and Gordon. The - history of these gentlemen's labours, successes, and failures could - not be penned without immediate comprehensiveness of the causes - which led some to triumph, where wisdom was exhibited, and rashness - failed. - - "No man having put his hand to the plough and looking back is fit - for the kingdom of heaven. No man having accepted trust can in - honour do otherwise than continue in that trust until victory is - assured. I suppose, as the note of retreat had been sounded before - I left Africa, the council of the Christian Mission Society will - order Mr. Mackay to withdraw now. I hope not. The expulsion of the - missionaries and the dispersion of their Christian flocks would - strike any one else, looking at it from a layman's point of view, - as the dawn of the day of victory. The shouts of triumph uttered by - the Mohammedans now in power should not dishearten, but should - inspire them to nobler and wiser efforts, to persevere patiently - and unremittingly. No great cause, no great work, or great - enterprise was ever successful without perfect faith that it was - worthy of unwearying effort and strenuous striving. - - "Out of the 4,000 or 5,000 converts reported by Zachariah and - Samuel now in Ankori and Uddu, let us assume as 2,000 being due to - the labours of Mackay and his worthy associates. At L50,000, each - convert would appear to have cost L25. I am not one of those who - would always appeal to the state for help in such a crisis as this, - but to those able to spare out of great wealth, and who yet answer - that they must attend to those at home first, I would give the - reply of the wise Gentile woman--'True, Lord, but the dogs pick up - crumbs that fall from their master's table.' - - "The success of the mission to Nyanza is proved by the sacrifices - of the converts, by their determined resistance to the tyrant, by - their successful deposition of him. I have read somewhere that the - recognition of belligerents is not permissible until it is proved - that they can hold their own. If this be so the Waganda converts - have proved that the mission was a success, and a most remarkable - success. The missionaries were compelled to bore deep down, and - after that the element sprang up spontaneously. After years of - baffling and unpromising work the converts flocked spontaneously to - the new church of Equatorial Africa. Princes and peasants, chiefs - and warriors came forward to be instructed in the Christian - religion, and to be taught the arts of reading and writing, and to - be the proud possessors of printed books in their own language, - treating of the Author of salvation and His sufferings on behalf of - humanity. - - "The progress of this religion became alarming to the Mohammedans - and their native sympathisers, but it was not until the death of - the politic Mtesa that they could venture upon any plan to thwart - its growth. The accession of a boy-prince to the throne, and the - vices, banghi-smoking, drunkenness, and licentiousness, disclosed - the means whereby the Christians might be suppressed, and the - Moslems with a low, mean craftiness, and charged with concentrated - malice, were not slow to avail themselves of their opportunities. - The young king, despite the reputable character the whites had won - from all classes of the people, now regarded them with thoughts - foully perverted by unmeasured slander. To his distorted view the - missionaries were men banded together for the undermining of his - authority, for sapping the affections and loyalty of his subjects, - and for presently occupying the whole of Uganda. These various - expeditions, which as every one knew were roaming over the country, - now in Masai-land, presently in Usoga, then again in Usukuma and - Unyamwezi, the quarrels on the coast between Seyyid Barghash and - the Germans, the presence of war-ships at Zanzibar, the little - colonies of Germans studding the coast lands--what else could all - these movements aim at but the forcible conquest of Africa? Hence - an era of persecution was initiated by the order to burn and slay; - hence the _auto-da-fe_ in Uganda, the murder of Bishop Hannington, - and the massacre of his caravan in Usogo, the doom that ever seemed - to be imminent over the head of the faithful and patient Mackay, - and the menaced suspension of mission work. When the Christians had - scattered into their hiding places, and the jealousy of the Moslems - had cooled, the young King merged into an intolerable despot, and - murdered indiscriminately. Many an eminent person in the land fell - a victim to his suspicions, and was ordered to be either clubbed to - death or strangled. It was then the Mohammedans, fearing for - their own lives, solicited the aid of the Christians, and the - tyrant was compelled to flee the kingdom to find leisure to repent - during his Lake voyages, and finally to submit to be baptised."[33] - -Zachariah and Samuel were now informed that, owing to the impossibility -of leaving my charge, they had better trust to Mr. Stokes and Mr. -Mackay, and that if I could explain matters to their English friends I -would surely do so. Then, seeing that I was resolved on departure, five -of the Christians begged to be permitted to accompany me to the sea, -which permission was readily granted. - -On the 24th, after winding in and out of several valleys, between -various pastoral ranges, which were black from recent fires, as the -grass everywhere was white with age and drought, we entered the valley -of Mavona, to descend gradually amid a thin forest of acacia sprinkled -with euphorbia, milkweed, thistles, and tall aloetic plants. The -settlement of Mavona produced abundantly quite a variety of garden -produce, such as peas, beans, tomatoes, potatoes, manioc, cucumbers, -banigalls, bananas, and plantain. - -The next day, continuing down the Mavona valley for four and a half -hours, we suddenly came in sight of the Alexandra valley, and found that -the long line of hills which winded S.S.E. was on the Karagwe side of -the river. At this season the features of the land on both sides are -very forbidding, and unrelieved by any patch of cultivation, and -rendered more so by the fires, which have transformed every valley and -hill into wastes of black ashes and desolateness. - -During the 26th and 27th we were ferried across the river in four double -sets of most uncouth canoes, and then the Ankori escort, the Waganda -converts, were dismissed, having satisfied Antari, and each of our -friends with such gifts as won their professions of gratitude. - -The Alexandra Nile at this place was about 125 yards wide, and an -average depth of nine feet, flowing three knots per hour in the centre. - - - - -CHAPTER XXXIII. - -THE TRIBES OF THE GRASS-LAND. - - The Wahuma: the exact opposite of the Dwarfs: their - descendants--Tribes nearly allied to the true negro type--Tribes of - the Nilotic basin--The Herdsmen--The traditions of Unyoro--My - experiences of the Wahuma gained while at Kavalli--View of the - surrounding country from Kavalli camp--Chiefs Kavalli, Katto, and - Gavira unbosom their wrongs to me--Old Ruguji's reminiscences--The - pasture-land lying between Lake Albert and the forest--The cattle - in the district round Kavalli: their milk-yield--Three cases - referring to cattle which I am called upon to adjudicate--Household - duties of the women--Dress among the Wahuma--Old Egyptian and - Ethiopian characteristics preserved among the tribes of the - grass-land--Customs, habits, and religion of the tribes--Poor Gaddo - suspected of conspiracy against his chief, Kavalli: his death--Diet - of the Wahuma--The climate of the region of the grass-land. - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -July. - -The - -Wahuma] - - -The Wahuma are the most interesting people, next to the Pigmies in all -Central Africa. Some philological _nidderings_ have classed them under -the generic name Bantu, and every traveller ambitious of being -comprehended among the scientific, adds his testimony and influence to -perpetuate this most unscientific term. _Bantu_ is an Inner African word -of which the translation is Men. We are therefore asked seriously to -accept it as a solemn fact, upon scientific authority, that the Wahuma, -like the Pigmies, are men. - -The Wahuma are the exact opposite of the dwarfs. The latter are -undersized nomads, adapted by their habits to forest life; the former -are tall, finely-formed men, with almost European features, adapted from -immemorial custom and second nature to life in pastoral lands only. -Reverse their localities, and they pine and die. Take the Pigmies out of -their arboreal recesses and perpetual twilight, and from their vegetable -diet, and plant them on a grass-land open to the winds and the sunshine, -feed them on beef and grain, and milk as you may, and they shrink with -the cold and exposure, refuse their meat, and droop to death. On the -other hand, deport the Wahuma into the woods, and supply them with the -finest vegetables, and always with plenty of food, and the result is, -that they get depressed, their fine brown-black colour changes into -ashen gray, the proud haughty carriage is lost, they contract an aspect -of misery, and die in despair and weariness. Yet these two opposites of -humanity are called Bantu, or men, a term which is perfectly -meaningless, and yet as old as the story of the Creation. In North -America we see to-day Esquimaux, English, Irish, German, French and -Spanish Americans, and Indians, and, after the scientific manner, we -should call them Bantu. Interest in the various human families is not -roused by comprehending them under such unphilosophical terms. - -The Wahuma are true descendants of the Semitic tribes, or communities, -which emigrated from Asia across the Red Sea and settled on the coast, -and in the uplands of Abyssinia, once known as Ethiopia. From this great -centre more than a third of the inhabitants of Inner Africa have had -their origin. As they pressed southward and conquered the negro tribes, -miscegenation produced a mixture of races; the Semitic became tainted -with negro blood, the half-caste tribes inter-married again with the -primitive race, and became still more degraded in feature and form, and -in the course of ages lost almost all traces of their extraction from -the Asiatic peoples. If a traveller only bears this fact in mind, and -commences his researches from the Cape of Good Hope, he will be able -easily, as he marches northward, to separate the less adulterated -tribes from those who are so nearly allied to the true negro type as to -bear classification as negroid. The kinky, woolly hair is common to all; -but even in this there are shades of difference from that which is -coarse almost as horse-hair, to that which rivals silken floss for -fineness. The study of the hair may, however, be left; the great and -engrossing study being the Caucasian faces under the negro hair. From -among the Kaffirs, Zulus, Matabeles, Basutos, Bechuanas, or any other of -the fierce South African tribes, select an ordinary specimen of those -splendidly-formed tribes so ruthlessly denominated as negroes, and plant -him near a West African, or Congoese, or Gabonese type, and place a -Hindu between them, and having been once started on the right trail of -discovery, you will at once perceive that the features of the Kaffir are -a subtle amalgamation of the Hindu and West African types; but if we -take a Mhuma of mature age, the relation to the Hindu will still more -readily appear. Advancing across the Zambezi towards the watershed of -the Congo and Loangwa, we observe among the tribes a confusion of types, -which may be classed indifferently as being an intermediate family -between the West African and the Kaffir; an improvement on the former, -but not quite up to the standard of the latter. If we extend our travels -east or west we will find this to be a far-spreading type. It embraces -the Babisa, Barua, Balunda, and the tribes of the entire Congo basin; -and to the eastward, Wachunga, Wafipa, Wakawendi, Wakonongo, Wanyamwezi, -and Wasukuma. Among them, every now and then, we will be struck with the -close resemblance of minor tribal communities to the finest Zulus, and -near the eastern littoral we will see negroid West Africans reproduced -in the Waiau, Wasagara, Wangindo, and the blacks of Zanzibar. When we -return from the East Coast to the uplands bordering the Tanganika, and -advance north as far as Ujiji, we will see the stature and facial type -much improved. Through Ujiji we enter Urundi, and there is again a -visible improvement. If we go east a few days we enter Uhha, and we are -in the presence of twin-brothers of Zululand--tall, warlike creatures, -with Caucasian heads and faces, but dyed darkly with the sable pigment. -If we go east a little further, among those mixtures of pure negroes, -with Kaffir type of ancient Ukalaganza, now called Usumbwa, we see a -tall, graceful-looking herdsman with European features, but dark in -colour. If we ask him what he is, he will tell us his occupation is -herding cattle, and that he is a Mtusi, of the Watusi tribe. "Is there -any country, then, called Utusi?" and he will answer "No; but he came -from the north." We advance to the north, and we find ourselves -travelling along the spine of pastoral upland. We are in the Nilotic -basin. Every streamlet trends easterly to a great inland sea called now -the Victoria Nyanza, or westerly to the Albert Edward Nyanza. This -upland embraces Ruanda, Karagwe, Mpororo, Ankori, Ihangiro, Uhaiya, and -Uzongora, and all these tribes inhabiting those countries possess -cattle; but the people are not all herdsmen. Many among them are devoted -to agriculture. After journeying hither and thither, we are impressed -with the fact that all those occupied with tending cattle are similar to -that graceful Mtusi whom we met in Usumbwa, and who vaguely pointed to -the north as his original home, and that all the agriculturists are as -negroid in feature as any thick-lipped West Coast African. By dwelling -among them, we also learn that the herdsmen regard those who till the -soil with as much contempt as a London banking clerk would view the farm -labourer. Still advancing to the north we behold an immense snowy range. -It is an impassable barrier; we deflect our march to the west, and find -this Mtusi type numerous, and stretching up to the foot of the -mountains, and to dense, impenetrable forests unfit for the herding of -cattle; and at once the Caucasian type ceases, and the negroid features, -either coppery, black, or mixed complexion--the flat nose, the sunken -ridge, and the projecting of the lower part of the face--are dumb -witnesses that here the wave of superior races was arrested. We retrace -our steps, ascend to the upland and skirt the snowy range eastward, and -over a splendid grazing country called Toro, Uhaiyana, and Unyoro, we -see the fine-featured herdsmen again in numbers attending their vast -herds, and the dark flat-nosed negroid tilling the land with hoes, as we -saw them further south. After passing the snowy range on its northern -extremity, we proceed west across the flat grassy valley of the Semliki -to other grassy uplands parallel with Unyoro, but separated from it by -the Albert Nyanza; and over this pastoral region are living together, -but each strictly adhering to his own pursuit, the herdsmen and the -tillers of the soil. During our travels from Usumbwa the herdsmen have -changed their names from Watusi to Wanyambu, Wahuma, Waima, Wawitu, and -Wachwezi. That is, they have accepted these titles in the main from the -agricultural class, but whether in Ankori, or among the Balegga and -Bavira, or dwelling with the Waganda or in Unyoro, they call themselves -Watusi, Wahuma, or Wachwezi. In Karagwe, Ankori, or Usongora, they are -the dominating classes. Their descendants sit in the seat of power in -Ihangiro, Uhaiya, Uganda, and Unyoro; but the people of these countries -are an admixture of the Zulu and West African tribes, and therefore they -are more devoted to agriculture. When, as for instance, tribes such as -Waganda, Wasoga, and Wakuri have been left to grow up and increase in -power and prosperity, we have but to look at the sea-like expanse of the -Victoria Nyanza, and we see the reason of it. No further progress was -possible, and the wave of migration passed westward and eastward, and -overlapped these tribes, and in their progress southward dropped a few -members by the way, to become absorbed by the members of the -agricultural class, and to lose their distinctive characteristics. - -As the traditions of Unyoro report that the Wachwezi came from the -eastern bank of the Victoria Nile, we will cross that river, and we find -that between us and Abyssinia there are no grand physical features such -as great lakes or continuous ranges to bar the migration to the south of -barbarous multitudes; that the soil is poor and the climate dry, and -pasture unpromising, and that all the tribes are devoted to the rearing -of cattle; that the indigenous races, such as we see in the Congo basin -and near the littoral of east Africa, disparted by the waves of -migrating peoples on their course south, have been so thoroughly -extinguished by the superior Indo-African race that the vast area of the -upland from the Victoria Nile to the Gulf of Aden simply repeats its -long-established types, which we may call Galla, Abyssinian, Ethiopic, -or Indo-African.[34] This too brief outline will serve to prepare the -reader for knowing something more of the Wahuma, the true descendants of -these Ethiopians, who have for fifty centuries been pouring over the -continent of Africa east and west of the Victoria Nyanza in search of -pasture, and while doing so have formed superior tribes and nations -along their course, from the Gulf of Aden to the Cape of Good Hope--a -vast improvement on the old primitive races of Africa. - -I propose to illustrate the Wahuma by our experiences with those who -recognised Kavalli as chief. - -Looking westward from Kavalli's we had a prospect of over 1,000 square -miles. Though fairly populous in parts, the view was so immense that it -suggested little of human presence except in the immediate foreground. -Compared to the mountainous ridges and great swells of land, what were a -few clusters of straw-coloured cotes, with generous spaces between -showing the small arable plots of the Bavira soil-tillers? During the -earlier days of our residence at Kavalli we enjoyed the free, -uninterrupted, limitless view of pasture-land, swelling ridge, bold -mountain, isolated hill, subsiding valleys, and extending levels. -Undisturbed by anxiety from want of food, and satisfied with our diet of -grass-land esculents and nourishing meat, it was exhilarating to the -nerves to watch the countless grass blades stoop in broad waves before -the gusty winds from the Nyanza, and see them roll and swerve in -currents of varying green, after our long forest life. - -Kavalli's zeriba, wherein he herded his cattle and flocks every night, -was in the centre of a gentle slope of turfy green. Constant browsing by -the swarming herds of himself and Wahuma neighbours kept the grass -short, and gave us unobstructed views and walks over delicious pasture. -Even the tiny chicklings attendant on the mother hen might be numbered -at a bowshot's distance. Every few yards or so there rose an ant-hill -from 3 to 12 feet high. They served happily enough for the herdsmen to -keep watch over their herds and flocks of sheep and goats, and those -near the kraals were the resort of the elders and gossips to discuss the -events of the period. There at such times, in low converse with Kavalli -and his aged men, I gained large insight into the local histories of the -villages and tribes about him. Indeed, no more suitable spot could be -found, for before us were mapped out nearly threescore districts. - -Far to the west rose Pisgah, throned high above a hundred leagues of -dark forest-land, and every yard of its contour distinct in delineation -against the reddening sky. Lifted in lone majesty, a sombre mass, it -attracted the attention in every pause of the conversation. From Pisgah, -which to Kavalli was the end of the world, all beyond being fable and -night, he would direct our gaze to Kimberri's cones, a day's march -N.N.W. to the lofty peak of Kuka seen just behind, and then to the massy -square-browed mount of Duki, and the flats below occupied by the -Balungwa, of whose numerous herds he had much to say; and to Kavalli, be -it remembered, there was no subject so worthy of talk as cattle. To the -south of west a range of grassy mountains rose in Mazamboni's country, -and extending in a seemingly unbroken line to the verge of the gulf -occupied by the Albert Lake, and its bordering plains, valleys, and -terraces. The westerly portion is governed by Mazamboni, the easterly by -Chief Komubi. The plain extending from the mountains as far as Kavalli -is called Uzanza, and is occupied by the agricultural Bavira, who came -originally from behind Duki, in the neighbourhood of Kuka Peak. Between -Kavalli and Kimberri a great cantle of the plain is owned by warlike -Musiri and his people. - -Having dealt with the main feature of the land, Kavalli proceeds to -unbosom himself. He is in danger of his life from Kadongo, who is an -ally of Kabba-Rega, and he has an enemy in Katonza. Some years ago -Kavalli possessed a village near the Nyanza, where his fishermen lived. -Kadongo envied him the fine possession, and with Katonza and some -raiders of Unyoro set upon Kavalli, burned his village, slew many of his -people, and despoiled him of all his cattle in one night. Kavalli fled -to Melindwa, and after awhile he returned to live with the Bavira, and -by scraping a bit here and there, and making good bargains, he can show -about eighty head of cattle to-day. He has received warning, however, -that Kadongo will attack him again. - -No sooner has Kavalli ceased his graphic recital wrongs endured, than -Katto and Kalenge--Mazamboni's brother and cousin--begin to detail the -wrongs inflicted on them by Musiri. A brother and a sister, several -relatives, and many friends have been slaughtered by relentless Musiri. -The stories are given circumstantially with expressive action, and -heighten the atrocious conduct of Musiri. - -Then Gavira begins to relate how the Balegga of Mutundu, and Musiri, -have ill-treated him. According to him, what few herds escaped the -rapacious Wara-Sura during their periodic raids have been often thinned -by the nocturnal cattle-lifters of Mutundu and Musiri, who steal -alternately from him. "Ah," says Gavira, "to-day it is the Wara-Sura, -to-morrow it is Musiri, the day after Mutundu; we are continually flying -to the hills from somebody." - -Yet, gazing on the wonderfully pleasant scene of green grass-land before -us, with not a cloud in the sky, and a drowsy restfulness everywhere, -who could have supposed this Arcadia-like land was disturbed by -contentions, enmities, and wars? - -Most of the Wahuma now west of the Albert came from Unyoro, as they fled -from the avaricious tyranny and avarice of its kings. - -Old Ruguji, for instance, who is next neighbour to Kavalli, and whose -forty head of cattle we rescued for him from Melindwa, was born in -Unyoro, and remembers his great-grandfather, who must have been born -about 1750 A.D. When he was ten years old (1829) Kuguji remembered -Chowambi, father of Kamrasi, the father of Kabba Rega, sending to his -great-grandfather for cattle. "At that time the Semliki River flowed -into a large lagoon, called Katera, on the south-east side of the Lake. -The Waganda were often prevented from crossing over to the Balegga -countries because of those lagoons, but since the lagoons have been -filled with mud, and the Semliki falls into the Lake, and as Kamrasi -wanted cattle continually, and one day he took all, I took my women and -children, when I was a young man, and came over here." - -"Have you had peace here, Ruguji?" - -"See my scars; I have things to remind me of the Balegga and Melindwa, -Musiri and the Wara-Sura. The Bavira also came from Kukaland, and they -asked our permission while we were feeding our herds to come and live -with us, but they have the big head also, and some day there will be -trouble with them." - -The pasture-land lying between Lake Albert and the forest was subjected -to much denudation by rain. Though the bosses of hills, ridges, dykes, -bear an approximately uniform level, the intermediate ground varies -greatly--it is highest of course as it approaches the Albert, and lowest -towards the Ituri river, which drains nearly the whole of the area. It -would be difficult, however, to find an absolutely level tract of any -respectable extent, though a cursory view of it might decide otherwise. -It is a complicated system of slope and counter-slope, supplying scores -of tributary rivulets, brooks and stream, belonging to some main feeder -of the Ituri. - -The nature of the soil, being a loose sandy loam--loosened still more by -hosts of burrowing beetles, which do the office of moles and -earthworms--offers no resistance to the perpetual denuding of the -surface by frequent furious and long-lasting rainstorms, despite its -rich crops of grass. A visit to one of the streams after a rainstorm -reveals how rapid is the process of destruction; and if we follow one of -these smaller streams to the confluence with the main tributary, we -shall see yet greater proofs of the havoc created in the face of the -apparently smooth swells of land than would appear at first possible by -a few hours' heavy rain. - -In the district in view from Kavalli I have estimated that the entire -number of cattle cannot exceed 4,000 head. They are almost equal in size -to English oxen, and are of a humpless breed, very different from the -species south and east of Lake Victoria. The horns are of medium length, -though there are some few distinguished for unusual length of their -horns. The bulls, however, were well developed in the hump. The cattle -of Usongora and Unyoro are mostly all of a hornless and humpless breed, -and principally of a fawn colour; while those of Ankori have immensely -long horns, and their hides are of variegated hue. It is said that the -cattle are made hornless by burning them with fire, with a view to -enable them to penetrate jungles. The owners mark their cattle on the -ears with one or several cuts, by piercing or excision at the ends. - -Kavalli informed me that large numbers of cattle are sometimes poisoned -by plants, if they happened to be driven somewhere not generally haunted -by them. Repeated burnings of the grass, however, render the herbage -innocuous. The plains in the neighbourhood of the Lake are very fatal to -the herds. In fifteen days a disease develops, with a running at the -nostrils; the milk dries up, the coats begin to stare, the animal -refuses to eat, and dies. - -The old Wahuma have good veterinary knowledge perhaps, but many of their -practices would not bear repeating. I wished to have some butter made -with my ration of milk, and sent to borrow a churning gourd, and after -the operation directed the servants to wash the vessel; but this -produced a storm of reproaches. They believed water in the vessel to -injure the cattle. Nor will they permit a person who eats cooked food to -put his lips to any pot, basin, or gourd that is used in contact with -their cows. - -The sound of the churning was heard daily in a hut near my tent, and the -operation was performed in a somewhat similar style to agitating a -punkah, the milk gourd being suspended to the rafter of a house. - -The milk yield of the cattle is very small considering the size of the -cattle and the abundance of pasturage. The best milker does not furnish -more than half a gallon per diem. Kavalli's boys and young men were -employed in milking our cattle. They invariably lashed the hind legs -together, and brought the calf to its mother's head; one hand held the -wooden vessel and the other milked, and they appeared to leave but -little for the hungry calves. The goats often gave us as much milk as an -ordinary cow, but I have never observed that the natives cared for the -fair supply they might have obtained from these useful animals. - -Though a woman is as much a chattel in these lands as any article their -lords may own, and is priced at from one to five head of cattle, she is -held in honour and esteem, and she possesses rights which may not be -overlooked with impunity. The dower stock may have been surrendered to -the father, but if she be ill used she can easily contrive at some time -to return to her parents, and before she be restored the husband must -repurchase her, and as cattle are valuable, he is likely to bridle his -temper. Besides, there is the discomfort of the cold hearth, and the -chilly arrangement of the household, which soon serve to subdue the -tyrant. - -I was requested to adjudicate a case relating to marriage custom, -between Kavalli on the one hand, owner of a slave girl, and Katonza, a -Mhuma chief. The latter had sought Kavalli's girl in marriage, and had -paid two cows for her out of three that had been fixed as the price. -Kavalli therefore detained the bride of Katonza, and this detention was -the cause of his grievance. The price was not denied, and Katonza -offered a plea that he feared the girl might not be surrendered by -Kavalli if he paid the third cow. He was requested to put the cow into -court, and in this manner the bride was forthcoming. - -Kavalli brought another case to me for consideration. He was already -five times married, and he desired a sixth wife. He had purchased her -from the tribe of Bugombi, and her parents, having heard something to -his prejudice, wished to compel a double payment, and would not deliver -her to him. Whereupon I suggested to Kavalli that by giving another cow -and a calf the matter might be arranged. - -The next case that I had to judge was somewhat difficult. Chief Mpigwa -having appeared at the Barza (Durbar), a man stepped up to complain of -him, because he withheld two cows that belonged to his tribe. Mpigwa -explained that the man had married a girl belonging to his tribe and had -paid two cows for her, that she had gone to his house, and in course of -time had become a mother, and had borne three children to her husband. -The man died, whereupon his tribe accused the woman of having contrived -his death by witchcraft, and drove her home to her parents. Mpigwa -received her into the tribe with her children, and now the object of -complaint was the restoration of the two cows to the husband's tribe. -"Was it fair," asked Mpigwa, "after a woman had become the mother of -three children in the tribe to demand the cattle back again after the -husband's death, when they had sent the woman and her infants away of -their own accord?" The decision upheld Mpigwa in his views, as such -conduct was not only heartless and mean, but tended to bring the -honoured custom of marriage contracts into contempt. - -The women have control within the house, and over the products of the -dairy and the field. It is the man's duty to build the house, tend and -milk the cattle, repair the fence, and provide the clothing, which is -naturally scanty; but it is the woman who cultivates the field, makes -the butter, and does the marketing. Butter and milk must be purchased -from her, as well as the provisions. It is an universal custom in -Africa. - -The dress of the men consists generally of a single goat-skin, which -depends from the left shoulder. It is varied with antelope-hide with the -hair scraped off, excepting a margin of three or four inches wide round -the borders. The wives are clothed with cow-hides, which are often -beautifully tanned and soft: slave women, in the absence of a goat-skin, -wear a strip of leather round the waist, from which a narrow piece of -bark cloth depends in front and back, or a very limited apron. Girls up -to a marriageable age travel about publicly in complete nudity, while -boys over ten years old are rarely seen without a kid-skin, aping the -adult: on occasions of rejoicing each woman bears in her girdle at the -back a bunch of green leaves, corn or sugar-cane leaves, or a piece of -banana frond. - -The favourite wives of chiefs, or "medicine women," "witches," are also -entitled like the great chiefs to wear a leopard-skin, or in lieu of -that, cat or monkey-skins. It seems to be a pretty general idea that -leopard or lion skins prove rank and dignity. If a stranger expresses a -doubt that a chief is only a person of low rank, he points to his -leopard-skin and asks, "How can I possess this, then?" - -[Illustration: A PAGE FROM MR. STANLEY'S NOTE-BOOK.] - -[Illustration: MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS OF THE BALEGGA.] - -In looking over Wilkinson's 'Ancient Egyptians' the other day I was much -struck with the conservative character of the African, for among the -engravings I recognize in plate 459 the form of dress most common among -the Wahuma, Watusi, Wanyambu, Wahha, Warundi, and Wanyavingi, and which -were in vogue thirty-five centuries ago among the black peoples who paid -tribute to the Pharaohs. The musical instruments also, such as are -figured in plates 135, 136--a specimen of which is in the British -Museum--we discovered among the Balegga and Wahuma, and in 1876 among -the Basoga. The hafts of knives, the grooves in the blades and their -form, the triangular decorations in plaster in their houses, or on their -shields, bark clothes, boxes, cooking utensils, and in their weapons, -spears, bows, and clubs; in their _mundus_, which are similar in form to -the old pole-axe of the Egyptians, in the curved head-rests, their -ivory and wooden spoons; in their eared sandals, which no Mhuma would -travel without; in their partiality to certain colours, such as red, -black, and yellow; in their baskets for carrying their infants; in their -reed flutes; in the long walking-staffs; in the mode of expressing their -grief, by wailing, beating their breasts, and their gestures expressive -of being inconsolable; in their sad, melancholy songs; and in a hundred -other customs and habits, I see that old Egyptian and Ethiopian -characteristics are faithfully preserved among the tribes of the -grass-land. - -The boys have games similar to those of "marbles" and ball and -backgammon with us. As the ancients bore their watering-pots for -irrigating their fields, so the Wahuma convey the milk to their chiefs; -and the oil of their castor berries, and butter, serve to perpetuate the -custom of old antiquity in their ablutions; and in the respect paid to -the elders and their chiefs by the modern youth of Inner Africa may be -observed that reverence which was so often inculcated in the olden time. -These people, having no literature, and undisturbed by advent of -superior influences among them, have only learned what has been -communicated to them by their parents, who had received from their -progenitors such few functions and customs as were necessary for -existence and preservation of their particular tribal distinctions. Thus -the unlettered tribes of these long unknown regions are discovered to be -practising such customs, habits and precepts, as must have distinguished -the ancestors of the founders of the Pyramids in the dark prehistoric -ages of Egypt. - -No traces of any religion can be found among the Wahuma. They believe -most thoroughly in the existence of an evil influence in the form of a -man, who exists in uninhabited places as a wooded, darksome gorge, or -large extent of reedy brake, but that he can be propitiated by gifts; -therefore the lucky hunter leaves a portion of the meat, which he -tosses, however, as he would to a dog, or he places an egg, or a small -banana, or a kid-skin, at the door of the miniature dwelling which is -always found at the entrance to the zeriba. - -Every person wears a charm around the neck, or arm, or waist. They -believe in "evil eyes" and omens, but are not so superstitious as the -Waganda, probably because they are so scattered. Witchcraft is dreaded, -and the punishment of a suspected person follows swiftly. - -[Illustration: WEAPONS OF THE BALEGGA AND WAHUMA TRIBES.] - -Poor Gaddo, a good-looking, faithful young fellow who accompanied Mr. -Jephson as lake pilot to Mswa Station soon after his return to Kavalli's -village, was suspected of conspiring against his chief. Gaddo came to me -and reported that he was in danger, and he was advised to remain in my -camp until we should leave. The elders proceeded with a fowl to a -distance of about a hundred yards beyond the camp, and opened the -breast. They were seen whispering together over what they had -discovered, and it was presently known that the jury had found Gaddo -guilty of evil practices against Kavalli, and this was doom. As Gaddo -was as guiltless as the babe unborn, a messenger was sent to the chief -to say that if he were injured Kavalli would be held responsible. Yet -Gaddo felt so uncomfortable in the vicinity of the village, as public -opinion had already condemned him, that he sought to escape to Katonza's -by the lake, but on the brow of the plateau fate found him. It was -reported circumstantially that while standing on a rock he had fallen -over and broken his neck. It was very sad to hear the young wife and -children and sisters wailing for the dead, and Kavalli was markedly good -and amiable in those days. - -The diet of the Wahuma is principally milk. The sale of their butter and -hides now and then enables them to purchase sweet potatoes, millet, and -bananas, but it is with a peculiar pride they say they are not "hoemen." -The sorghum of the tribes around them is of the red variety. The Indian -corn, or maize, is of an inferior quality. It is planted in the latter -part of February at the same period as the beans. In two months the -latter are fit to be eaten. A month later the corn comes into ear, and -in the fourth month it is mature. In September the millet is sown and -is ripe for cutting in February. Every village owns extensive tracts -planted with sweet potatoes, and along the edges of their plantain -groves they grow _colocassia_, or _helmia_; but the latter are not -favourites with strangers, as ignorance in the art of cooking them -leaves them nauseous. - -The "malwa," or beer, is from fermented millet and ripe bananas. It is -in great demand, and a chief's greatest business in life appears to be -paying visits to his friends round about, for the purpose of exhausting -their malwa pots. Fortunately, it is not very potent, and is scarcely -strong enough to do more than inspire a happy convivial feeling. - -The climate of the region is agreeable. Five hours' work per day can be -performed, even out-door, without discomfort from excessive heat, and -three days out of seven during the whole of daylight, because of the -frequent clouded state of the sky. When, however, the sky is exposed, -the sun shines with a burning fervour that makes men seek the shelter of -their cool huts. The higher portions of the grass-land--as at Kavalli's, -in the Balegga Hills, and on the summit of the Ankori pastoral -ranges--range from 4,500 to 6,500 feet above the sea, and large extents -of Toro and Southern Unyoro as high as 10,000, and promise to be -agreeable lands for European settlers when means are provided to convey -them there. When that time arrives they will find amiable, quiet, and -friendly neighbours in that fine-featured race, of which the best type -are the Wahuma, with whom we have never exchanged angry words, and who -bring up vividly to the mind the traits of those blameless people with -whom the gods deigned to banquet once a year upon the heights of -Ethiopia. - - - - -CHAPTER XXXIV. - -TO THE ENGLISH MISSION STATION, SOUTH END OF VICTORIA NYANZA. - - Ankori and Karagwe under two aspects--Karagwe; and the Alexandra - Nile--Mtagata Hot Springs--A baby rhinoceros, captured by the - Nubians, shows fight in camp--Disappearance of Wadi Asmani--The - Pasha's opinion of Captain Casati--Surgeon Parke and the pigmy - damsel--Conduct of a boy pigmy--Kibbo-bora loses his wife at the - Hot Springs--Arrival at Kufarro--Recent kings of Karagwe--Kiengo - and Captain Nelson's resemblance to "Speke"--The King of Uganda - greatly dreaded in Karagwe--Ndagara refuses to let our sick stay in - his country--Camp at Uthenga: loss of men through the cold--We - throw superfluous articles in Lake Urigi in order to carry the - sick--We enter the district of Ihangiro: henceforward our food has - to be purchased--The Lake of Urigi--At the village of Mutara, - Fath-el-Mullah runs amuck with the natives, and is delivered over - to them--The Unyamatundu plateau--Halt at Ngoti: Mwengi their - chief--Kajumba's territory--We obtain a good view of Lake - Victoria--The country round Kisaho--Lions and human skulls in the - vicinity of our camp--The events of 1888 cleared our track for a - peaceful march to the sea--We reach Amranda and Bwanga--The French - missionaries and their stations at Usambiro--Arrival at Mr. - Mackay's, the English Mission station--Mr. Mackay and his books--We - rest, and replenish our stores, etc.--Messrs. Mackay and Deakes - give us a sumptuous dinner previous to our departure--The last - letter from Mr. A. M. Mackay, dated January 5, 1890. - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -July 28. - -Karagwe.] - -A stranger entering Ankori or Karagwe in the dry season, and taking a -casual view around, and seeing only vast spaces made black with fire, -and lines and massive outcroppings of grey rock, long mountainous ridges -heaving one after another, all burnt up, and scorched to seeming -desolateness, would be apt to exclaim impatiently, "Show me one beauty -spot on the face of it!" This man is an old acquaintance of mine. He is -a spleeny, querulous, joyless fellow, of thin blood and aching liver. He -will go to the Congo, or to East Africa, or to Bechuanaland, and -standing on an ant-heap, he will ask with a sneer, "Do you call this -Africa? Pho!" Nevertheless, within three weeks after the fire which -burnt the sere grass, and gave the land an aspect of desolation, the -young grass is waving merrily, exulting in its youth, and beauty, and -greenness over mountain summit, slope, and valley, and these two -pasture-lands, renowned for the breeding of their cattle, really look -beautiful. I have seen them now under two aspects. To Ankori I give the -preference. In it are mighty extents of plain stretching in a hazy, -billowy manner, broken up here and there by humpy eminences, pap-like -hills, and dwarfish mounts, divided by tributaries of the Alexandra like -the Rwizi, or by feeders of the Albert Edward like the Rusango, and all -within curving lines of grand grass-covered ranges, which separate one -broad river basin from another. It seems as though all this was arranged -after some cunning plan, to meet the exigencies of exclusive tribes. The -plan has been defeated, however, for Antari reigns over the basins of -the Rwizi, the Namianja, the Rusango, and many another stream, despite -the mountainous dyke, and of late years he has annexed Mpororo country, -and if his power were equal to his ambition he would probably annex -Karagwe, and Koki, and Uddu, down to the Victoria Lake. - -We are now in Karagwe. The Alexandra Nile--drawing its waters from -Ruanda, Mpororo, to the west; and from north, Uhha; and north-east, -Urundi and Kishakka--runs north along the western frontier of Karagwe, -and reaching Ankori, turns sharply round to eastward to empty into the -Victorian Sea; and as we leave its narrow valley, and ascend gradually -upward, along one of those sloping narrow troughs so characteristic of -this part of Central Africa, we camp at Unyakatera, below a mountain -ridge of that name, and like the view obtained from that summit two -score of times repeated, is all Karagwe. It is a system of deep narrow -valleys running between long narrow ranges as far as the eye can reach. -In the north of Karagwe they are drained by small streams which flow -into the Alexandra. - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -July 29. - -Mtagata.] - -The second day's travel was terminated when we reached Mtagata hot -springs, which I have already described in 'Through the Dark Continent.' - -[Illustration: A HOT SPRING, MTAGATA. _(From a Photograph.)_] - -[Illustration: BABY RHINOCEROS SHOWING FIGHT IN CAMP.] - -Soon after reaching the camp our Nubians set out to hunt, for the land -is famous for rhinoceros, and being good shots, they dropped four of -these huge beasts, and captured a baby, which they brought to us. We -tied the baby, which was as large as a prize boar, to a tree, and he -fully showed what combativeness there was in his nature. Sometimes he -mistook the tree for an enemy, and rushed to the attack, battering it -with its horny nose until, perceiving that the tree obstinately resisted -him, he would halt to reconnoitre it, as though he had the intention of -assaulting it by another method; but at such times some wicked Zanzibari -boys prodded him in the hams with a reed cane, and uttering a startling -squeal of rage he would dash at the offenders to the length of his -tether. He seemed to me to be the stupidest, most ireful, intractable -little beastie that ever I had met. Feeling himself restrained by the -cord, he felt sure it must be the tree that was teasing him, and he -would make another dash at it with such vehemence that sent him on his -haunches; prodded, pricked in the rear, he squealed again, and swinging -round with wonderful activity, he would start headlong, to be flung on -his back by the rope; until at last, feeling that it would be only -misery to him to be carried to the coast, he was consigned to the -butcher and his assistants. - -On the march of July 31st to Kirurumo, Wadi Asmani, a Zanzibari headman, -laid his rifle and box on the path, and disappeared without a word of -parting or warning to any person, with nearly thirty months' pay due to -him, while in perfect condition of body and at peace with all the world. - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -July 31. - -Kirurumo.] - -Captain Casati was placed in a hammock and carried on account of -increasing weakness. The Pasha visited me, and related his opinion that -Casati was a curious man. Said he: "I have just come from seeing my -friend Casati; I found him lying on some grass, and the sunshine pouring -on his bare head with such heat that, even with my topee, I suffered -inconvenience. He has four women, besides two Manyuema and his young man -from our province. I asked him why he did not make his people build him -a shelter with banana leaves, for there were some within forty yards of -him. He replied, 'I have no servants.' I then said to him, 'Why did you -not send for the bath-tub I promised you? You should avail yourself of -these hot springs.' 'True,'he replied, 'but I have no people.' 'But you -have four stout female servants that I know of.' 'Yes,' said he, 'but I -don't like to ask them to do anything lest they should say I work them -like slaves. They are widows, you know, and their husbands are dead, -etc.'" - -The young pigmy damsel who had been with us for over a year began to -show symptoms of chronic ill health, and was left with the chief of -Kirurumo. The little thing had performed devoted service to Surgeon -Parke, who had quite won her heart with those soft gentle tones of his -that made everybody smile affectionately on the Doctor. She used to be -the guardian of his tent, and whenever the Doctor had to absent himself -for his duties she crouched at the door, faithful as a spaniel, and -would permit no intruder to approach the doorway. She performed her work -in the most unobtrusive manner, and she was the only one of her sex who -did not abuse the privileges we generally concede to women in the camp. -On the road she carried the Doctor's satchel, and on nearing the -resting-place she was as industrious as a bee in collecting fuel, and -preparing the Surgeon's cheering cup of tea, which after patient -teaching she learned was necessary for his well-being. There was a -little fellow of her tribe attached to another of the officers, who -never spoke a word to mortal being except to his master, was one of the -first to gain camp, collect the fuel, and make his fire. Though loaded -on the march he never appeared fatigued or worried, and never gave any -trouble. Sometimes when by his industry he had collected a stock of -fuel, and a big callous-hearted ruffian took it from the boy, he would -show his distress by his looks, but presently gathering courage he would -abandon it and collect another pile, as though time was too precious to -waste in useless argument over the inevitable. And thus the Pigmies -showed by their conduct that they were related to all that was best and -noble in human nature. - -Kibbo-bora, a headman of the Manyuema, lost his wife at the Hot -Springs, and so great was his grief that he had to be restrained lest he -should commit suicide. Sitting apart in the gorge of Mtagata he howled -his laments during twenty-four hours, and his followers formed a chorus -to respond to his mournful cries. None of us had much sleep that night, -and thus we became involuntarily partakers of his woe. It was several -days before the poor fellow recovered from the shock. - -Continuing our journey along those grassy ridges which run parallel to -deep narrow valleys in a S.S.E. and N.N.W. direction, almost invariably -across the breadth of Karagwe and Ruanda to the westward, in three -marches we arrived at Kafurro, a settlement that was once a favourite -resort of Arab traders. - -As in Uganda, changes have taken place in Karagwe. Mtesa, first made -known to us by Captains Speke and Grant, has departed to the great -majority, and within fourteen years Mwanga, Kiwewa, Karema, and again -Mwanga, have sat on Mtesa's throne. Rumanika, the gentle pagan, a -characteristic Mhuma, has gone too, to sleep only a little more -peacefully than he had lived. And after him came Kyensi, his eldest son, -who reigned only nine months. Then followed Kakoko, another son, who -usurped the throne and reigned for three years, and during that time -slew seventeen brothers, and put out the eyes of Luajumba, his youngest -brother. Then Ka-chikonju went in unto Kakoko as he lay on his bedstead -sodden with _malwa_, and drove his sharp spear twice through his breast, -and relieved the land of the tyrant. The same month Hamed bin Ibrahim, -who had lived in Karagwe many years trading in ivory, was murdered by -his son, Syed bin Hamed. The successor of Kakoko to the rights and -prerogatives of King of Karagwe is Ndagara, or Unyagumbwa, for he has -two names, who was now in his sixteenth year, and as the son of Kyensi -was the rightful heir. - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -Aug. 3. - -Kafurro.] - -The welcome extended to us through Ankori was extended to the Expedition -in our journey through Karagwe. On the road to Kafurro we had been -permitted to help ourselves to bananas and plantains, and as soon as -Ndagara was officially informed of our arrival, he despatched to camp a -sufficient supply of bananas, an ox, fowls, _malwa_, and some loads of -beans, sweet potatoes, and grain. In return I made him a present of a -Winchester, and a couple of coils of wire. - -Kiengo, also the old guide of Speke and Grant, who accompanied them from -Unyanyembe to Unyoro, sent us an ox, bananas, fowls, and milk; and to -Captain Nelson, because he bore some resemblance to "Speki," he gave a -fat broad-tailed sheep, and the only tax we had to pay was that on our -patience while listening to his reminiscences of "Speki," which he was -never tired of repeating. - -The King of Uganda is greatly dreaded in Karagwe. Before Mwanga was -deposed no stranger could pass through the land without obtaining his -sanction. The Waganda, after the death of Rumanika, had carried matters -with such a high hand that they also taxed Ndagara's Arab guests with -the same freedom as they would have exacted toll in Uganda. Two years -before our arrival the Waganda were in force at Ndagara's capital, and -at Kitangule to command the ferries across the Alexandra Nile. They -found Bakari, a coast trader, occupying the place of Hamed Ibrahim at -Kafurro, and demanded from him twenty guns and twenty kegs of powder, -which he refused on the ground that he was a guest of the King of -Karagwe, and not of the King of Uganda; whereupon he and his principal -men were shot forthwith. Considering these things it is not likely we -should have had a peaceful passage through Karagwe had we adopted this -route for the relief of Emin, with such quantities of ammunition and -rifles as would have made Uganda so intractable that nothing but a great -military force would have been able to bring its king to reason. - -It was clearly demonstrated what hold Uganda maintained in Karagwe, when -in obedience to a request from twenty-six of the Pasha's people that I -should obtain permission of Ndagara for them to remain in the land -until they were cured of their ulcers, I sent word to the king that we -had several men and women unable to travel through excessive illness. -Ndagara returned a reply stating that on no consideration would he -permit the people to stay, as if it once reached the ears of the King of -Uganda that he allowed strangers to stay in his country, he would be so -exasperated that he would not only send a force to kill the strangers, -but that Karagwe would be ruined. His reply was given to the Pasha, and -he explained and argued with his wearied and sick followers, but, as he -said, they were resolved to stay, as they had only a choice of deaths, -and as we were already cruelly loaded, there was no help for it. - -From Kafurro we moved to Rozaka on the 7th, and the next day marched -over dreary wastes of sere grass, in valley and on mountain. The morning -was very gloomy and threatened rain, and after we had filed along a tall -ridge in the face of a bitter and chilly wind, a drizzly sleet commenced -to fall, which paralysed the Pasha's followers. The rearguard advancing -after the column saw symptoms of collapse among many cases, and its -commander, Captain Nelson, ordered a halt, and directed his men to make -fires, but before the freezing people could reach the warmth, many fell -down and stiffened, and becoming powerless had to be carried to the -fires and shampooed by the Zanzibaris, when they soon recovered. Five, -however, had perished from the cold before the hard-worked rearguard -could reach them. The head of the column, five miles ahead of the -rearguard, had spurred forward to gain shelter in the banana groves of -Uthenga basin, utterly beyond recall, as the habit of the Egyptians and -their followers was to dawdle along the road and place as much as a mile -or two between them and the porters, who by long experience had learned -that it was best to hurry to camp and be relieved of their burdens. - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -Aug. 10. - -Urigi Lake.] - -On the 10th we left Uthenga, and crossing two mountain ridges descended -800 feet to the narrow basin at the head of Urigi Lake, then traversed -the ancient bed, and winding along a road followed the east shore line -of the lake. On reaching camp, opposite to where the lake was about a -mile wide, we slaughtered nine head of cattle for meat rations, and -tossed two boxes of Remington ammunition into the water. We had already -relieved ourselves of African curios from the forest lands, and of every -superfluous article. We were now beginning to relieve ourselves of the -ammunition, to carry the sick refugees from the Equatorial Province. - -On the 11th we passed out of Karagwe territory, and because of the -complimentary introductions from Ndagara we were welcomed in Ihangiro, -and were escorted from village to village until we halted at Kavari. But -here was the end of the free living. Every grain and banana would have -to be purchased henceforward. From the Albert Nyanza to this first -important district in Ihangiro, nearly 600 miles, the Expedition had -been supplied gratuitously and abundantly. It now behoved us to -distribute to each man, woman, and child in the Expedition supplies of -beads of various colours, red, white, blue, brown, and pink, of -porcelain and glass, and each person would barter these currencies for -food as he or she pleased. To people who were accustomed to eat five -days' provisions in one day, it was imprudent to give more than four or -five days' ration beads at a time. Had we given each person a month's -allowance, which would have been a vast relief to our burdened carriers, -and a saving of some sick people's lives--as we should have been enabled -to have carried more of them in hammocks--nine-tenths of our followers -would have expended their ration monies in purchasing only a little -grain, but vast quantities of _malwa_, fowls, and goats, and in ten days -they would have applied for more beads or cloth, and the Expedition -would have been halted, completely beggared. - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -Aug. 11. - -Urigi Lake.] - -The Lake of Urigi is pretty when seen from Useni or Kavari. At this -season its hilly frame is all brown, with little dots of dark green bush -scattered here and there; the water was of a light blue owing to a -bright blue sky. Its receding waters have left great extents of flat -plain on the sides and around the bays running far inland into valleys. -Its shores and waters are favourite haunts of birds, from cranes, -herons, and pelicans, to the small black _Parra Africana_, egrets and -waders, which find excellent feeding over the large spaces near the -extremities and shore line of bays, covered with close-packed growths of -_Pistia stratiotes_ plants, until they resemble green lawns from a -little distance off. Hippos abound, and, unfortunately, armies of black -mosquitoes. The eastern shore we found to be littered with bones of -slain animals, for the lions and hyenas, it is said, kill much game. A -large supply of fish is found in the lake, but they are infested with -guinea worm--at least those which we purchased were deemed quite -uneatable from that cause. The lake measures about twenty-five miles in -length by from one to three miles wide, and is sunk about 1200 feet -below the average level of the bare grassy hills around it. - -[Illustration: LAKE URIGI.] - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -Aug. 12. - -Mutara.] - -From Kavari we journeyed along the lake shore to Mutara. No sooner had -we arrived than native men, women, and children visited us to barter -their surplus provisions of grain, honey, fish, malwa, fowls, and -bananas. The hard-headed Soudanese proceeded to the village of Mutara, a -mile off, and, unduly oblivious of the orders given the day before when -the beads were distributed, commenced to loot the village, more -especially for _malwa_ and beans. In a country where not the least -obstacle is placed in the way of travellers, and where they might -purchase anything of the product of the land for cash value, as much -surprise would be manifested as in Cairo or London at the sight of a mob -of men looting stores and markets. Consequently the natives -expostulated, and demanded to know what this conduct implied. For -answer, a Soudanese, Fathel Mullah, loaded his Remington and shot one -man dead, another in the jaw, and another in the leg. As this was -perfectly inexplicable to the natives, instead of avenging themselves -there and then, a body of fifty of them came to the camp as an orderly -deputation, to demand an explanation of me. The story appeared so -incredible that I sent an officer with them to see the dead man and -wounded, and the officer on his return reported that the story was true. -Then every man in the Expedition was mustered, the rolls were called, -Zanzibaris, Soudanese, Manyuema, Egyptians, and their followers, and the -natives were requested to walk all round the rude square, and point out -the man who had entered their village to run amuck while the women were -bartering in the camp, and after going searchingly about, five of them -pointed at Fathel Mullah. As this was not sufficient evidence even, the -question was addressed to the Soudanese, and his comrade Sururu stepped -out and described the circumstance that a native had tried to prevent -him taking a pot of _malwa_, whereupon, calling him _Abid_ and -_Kelb_--slave and dog--he shot him dead, and fired three or four times -at others indiscriminately. - -"The man is yours--you can take him; but if you will sell him for -cattle, cloth, wire, beads, or anything else, I will buy him." - -"No, no, no, no; we don't sell our people; not for a hundred cattle -would we part with him." - -"But what good will his blood be to you? You can't eat him; he will not -work for you. Take five cattle for him." - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -Aug. 13. - -Ngoti.] - -"No, no, no, no. We want him, for he has slain a chief man in our -village, and perhaps the others will die also. We will take him." - -"Take him, then; he does not belong to me, and has no right in my camp." - -He was marched away, and we never knew what became of him. - -On the next day we struck away more easterly from Lake Urigi, over rough -stony ground, which was waterless and uninhabited, with numerous -ant-hills covered with sickly and dwarfed bush, a thin forest of -miserable acacia spreading out on either hand, leafless, decaying, and -dead. Within two hours we reached the base of Unya-Matundu plateau, and, -as the morning was yet early, we ascended to the summit, 1,200 feet -above Lake Urigi, travelled an hour over a rolling surface of pasture -land, through prosperous fields and scattered settlements, and halted at -Ngoti after four and a half hours' march. - -Mwengi, the chief, was a gigantic young Mhuma, tall as a guardsman, but -quiet and possessed, and his people obeyed him with alacrity. We -therefore halted to do a day's bartering. A fine bunch of bananas could -be purchased for ten cowries, and as eight cowries constituted a day's -ration allowance, no one could possibly complain of insufficient food. - -An hour's march beyond Ngoti we began to descend the eastern face of the -plateau, and 900 feet below reached a rolling plain covered with -leafless and sickly acacia, and were in the country of Uzinja. - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -Aug. 15. - -Kimwani.] - -We halted after five hours in Kimwani or Kizinga--Chief Kajumba's -territory. The chief was another tall person of the Wahuma breed, at the -time suffering from ophthalmia. When the Waganda invaded his territory a -year ago he fled to Unya-Ruwamba, the Urigi district of Ihangiro, and -hid himself on an island in the lake, whence, after paying a tribute of -cattle to Uganda, he was permitted to return to his own land as a -subject of Mwanga, but to find his banana groves cut down and the land -well cleaned of every product. For the protection afforded him in his -distress, Ihangiro claims Kimwani as a district attached to it. -Kassasura, King of Usui, having invaded Kimwani and captured Kajumba and -held him a prisoner for two months, also lays claim to his allegiance. - -Kajumba, was liberal to us, as he sent us eighty-one bunches of bananas, -one goat, and two pots of _malwa_. As he was on the verge of senility, -he was inclined to be despotic and querulous, and it may be imagined -that perhaps a small caravan would be differently treated. - -Accompanied by guides from Kimwani we set out southward, and three miles -beyond Kajumba's we obtained a charming view of Lake Victoria and the -islands Ikuta, Majinga, Soswa, Rumondo, and distant Mysome, and near -noon we camped at Nyamagoju, at the south-west extremity of an arm of -the lake which receives the Lohugati, a periodical stream draining East -Usui. - -The next day's march was along a plain which extended from Nyamagoju to -another lake arm, at whose extremity we camped at a village called -Kisaho. Our route each day now was across flat extents of land, from -which the Lake had within twenty-five years or so receded. They are -covered over with low bush, which at this season is leafless. The ground -is dry, streamless, hard-baked and cracked, and shows a nitrous -efflorescence in many places. To our right, as the land rises, on ridges -over fifty feet above the Lake, we find a thin dwarf forest; at a -hundred feet elevation we see respectable trees, and grasses become more -nutritious. - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -Aug. 20. - -Itari.] - -[Illustration: SOUTHWEST EXTREMITY OF LAKE VICTORIA NYANZA.] - -We cut across a broad cape-like formation of land and passed from the -bay of Kisaho to a bay near Itari on the 20th, and from the summit of a -high ridge near the latter place I perceived by compass bearings and -solar observation, that we were much south of the south-west coast line, -as marked on my map in "Through the Dark Continent." From this elevated -ridge could be seen the long series of islands overlapping one another, -which, in our flight from the ferocious natives of Bumbire in 1875, -without oars, had been left unexplored, and which, therefore, I had -sketched as mainland. - -We find that the Wazinja call the Victoria Nyanza Muta Nzige, as the -Wanyoro call the Albert Lake Muta Nzige, and the Wasongora and -Wanyankori call the Albert Edward by the same name. - -On leaving Itari we were made aware of lions having paid the vicinity of -our camp a visit by a dead zebra which had just been killed. We were -also astonished at the number of human skulls about, and when we asked -the guides the cause, we were informed that at Itari the Wazinja -endeavoured to oppose the Waganda during their late invasion. It may be -that the Wazinja deserved the cruel visitation. It is well known that -Usui needs a lesson like it. The last caprice of Kasasura has been to -halt a caravan of 150 guns. - -As we reflected on the various events which appear to have occurred in -this region in 1887, the Waganda in force in Karagwe, audacious and -insolent, and shooting Arab traders, and invading Uzinja, and from -Kishakka to the Victoria Lake the land one seething area of strife and -bloodshed, it struck us that the events of 1888, the deposition of -Mwanga, the revolution and counter-revolution, were simply clearing our -track for a peaceful march to the sea. - -It became impressed on us as we travelled over these dry, waterless -plains, with their nakedness scarcely hidden by dwarf acacia, and hardy -euphorbias, that the forest people were utterly unfit to be taken out of -their arboreal homes. Half of those who had accompanied us we had been -obliged to leave behind, and yet there had been no want of either food -or water. In the same manner the Somalis, Soudanese, Madis, or Baris, -when taken into the forest, soon became joyless, dull, and moping, and -died. And yet I have read in affectedly learned books that Africa was -only fit for the Africans! - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -Aug. 21. - -Amranda.] - -To my great surprise, and indeed delight, the Lake extended to 2 deg. 48' -south latitude, which we ascertained on reaching Amranda on the 21st. -The highest elevation reached since leaving Nyamaagoju has not been -higher than 50 feet above the Lake, while immense tracts of as yet poor -flat country have been left bare by the recession of its waters, and -until many a season yet of rains has scoured the nitre out of these -plains they must remain mean and unproductive. - -By a gradual rise from Amranda southward we escape after a few miles out -of the unlovely plains to older land producing a better quality of -timber. Before we were 100 feet above the Lake a visible improvement had -taken place, the acacia had disappeared, and the myombo, a tree whose -bark is useful for native cloth and for boxes, and which might be -adapted for canoes, flourished everywhere. At Bwanga, the next village, -the language of the Wahuma, which we had heard continually since leaving -the Albert Nyanza, ceases, and the Unyamwezi interpreters had now to be -employed, which fact the sceptical Zanzibaris hailed as being evidence -that we were approaching _Pwani_ (the coast). - -And now we had to turn east, straight for the Mission House, which we -began to hear of as being in Usambiro. From Bwanga to Uyombi is a march -of 6-3/4 hours, thence another, Kamwaga, of 5 hours, thence to Umpete, 5 -hours, and from thence to the abandoned French Mission Station in -Usambiro in 6 hours. In the centre of the circular palisade was a neat -church, and above the roof of it was a simple cross, which instantly -suggested CHRIST and CIVILIZATION, words and thoughts to which I fear -most of us had been strangers for many months. - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -Aug. 27. - -Usambiro.] - -The French Missionaries, we must admit, are not to be excelled in the -art of building Stations and developing an appearance of comfort and -prettiness out of the most unpromising materials. Those who have -travelled the last three or four hundred miles with us will have seen -that I have been almost indifferent to the face of the land. We had -traversed it during the dry season, when it is difficult to find one -acre out of a million worth looking at, and yet equal to the unloveliest -of all was that occupied by this handsome Mission Station. There were -three rows of low earth-covered structures, forming three sides of a -spacious square, and in each row were four or five chambers neatly -plastered within and without with grey clay. Midway between the houses -were the church, excellently built out of materials in the vicinity; an -inner circle of palisades surrounded the civilized quarters, and an -outer circle protected the village of the proselytes. Nothing could be -better, considering that the myombo forest close by, and the soil around -them, furnished the materials, than the plan and execution of it. One -realised how patiently and with what love they must have laboured. There -were two faults in the place, however, which, had their faith not been -so great, they would have known before building. The natives were -cantankerous, hard-hearted, worldly Wanyamwezi, and there was no water, -and before they had quite completed the Station, the signal for retreat -and abandonment was given. - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -Aug. 28. - -Victoria - -Nyanza.] - -The next day, having already sent messengers ahead, that we might not -take Mr. Mackay, of the Church Missionary Society, by surprise, we -arrived in view of the English Mission, which was built in the middle of -what appeared to be no better than a grey waste, on ground gently -sloping from curious heaps of big boulders, or enormous blocks thrown -higgledy-piggledy to the height of a respectable hill down to a marshy -flat green with its dense crops of papyrus, beyond which we saw a gleam -of a line of water produced from an inlet of the Victoria Nyanza. We -were approaching the Mission by a waggon track, and presently we came to -the waggon itself, a simple thing on wooden wheels, for carrying timber -for building. There was not a green thing in view except in the marsh; -the aspect was cheerless and melancholy, grass all dead, trees either -shrunk, withered, or dead, at least there was not the promise of a bud -anywhere, which was of course entirely due to the dry season. When we -were about half a mile off a gentleman of small stature, with a rich -brown beard and brown hair, dressed in white linen and a grey Tyrolese -hat, advanced to meet us. - -"And so you are Mr. Mackay? Mwanga did not get you, then, this time? -What experiences you must have had with that man. But you look so well -one would say you had been to England lately." - -"Oh, no, this is my twelfth year. Mwanga permitted me to leave, and the -Rev. Cyril Gordon took my place, but not for long, since they were all -shortly after expelled from Uganda." - -Talking thus we entered the circle of tall poles within which the -Mission Station was built. There were signs of labour, and constant -unwearying patience, sweating under a hot sun, a steadfast determination -to do something to keep the mind employed, and never let idleness find -them with folded hands brooding over the unloveliness, lest despair -might seize them, and cause them to avail themselves of the speediest -means of ending their misery. There was a big, solid workshop in the -yard filled with machinery and tools, a launch's boiler was being -prepared by the blacksmiths, a big canoe was outside repairing; there -were sawpits, and large logs of hard timber, there were great stacks of -palisade poles, in a corner of an outer yard was a cattle-fold and a -goat-pen, fowls by the score pecked at microscopic grains, and out of -the European quarter there trooped out a number of little boys and big -boys looking uncommonly sleek and happy; and quiet labourers came up to -bid us, with hats off, "Good Morning." Now if there is anything on God's -earth better calculated than work to make men happy, it must be with -some peculiar dispositions the knowledge that their work is ended. -Hence, when I entered the Mission House my soul was possessed with some -such feeling as this; at any rate before my mission was terminated the -welcome we received promised rest and relief. - -[Illustration: STANLEY, EMIN, AND OFFICERS AT USAMBIRO.] - -I was ushered into the room of a substantial clay structure, the walls -about two feet thick, evenly plastered, and garnished with missionary -pictures and placards. There were four separate ranges of shelves filled -with choice, useful books. "Allah ho Akbar," replied Hassan, his -Zanzibari head-man, to me; "books! Mackay has thousands of books, in the -dining-room, bedroom, the church, everywhere. Books! ah, loads upon -loads of them!" And while I was sipping real coffee, and eating -home-made bread and butter for the first time for thirty months, I -thoroughly sympathised with Mackay's love of books. But it becomes quite -clear why, amongst so many books, and children, and outdoor work, Mackay -cannot find leisure to brood and become morbid, and think of -"drearinesses, wildernesses, despair and loneliness." A clever writer -lately wrote a book about a man who spent much time in Africa, which -from beginning to end is a long-drawn wail. It would have cured both -writer and hero of all moping to have seen the manner of Mackay's life. -He has no time to fret and groan and weep, and God knows if ever man had -reason to think of "graves and worms and oblivion," and to be doleful -and lonely and sad, Mackay had, when, after murdering his Bishop, and -burning his pupils, and strangling his converts, and clubbing to death -his dark friends, Mwanga turned his eye of death on him. And yet the -little man met it with calm blue eyes that never winked. To see one man -of this kind, working day after day for twelve years bravely, and -without a syllable of complaint or a moan amid the "wildernesses," and -to hear him lead his little flock to show forth God's loving kindness in -the morning, and His faithfulness every night, is worth going a long -journey, for the moral courage and contentment that one derives from it. - -We stayed at the Mission Station from the 28th of August to the morning -of the 17th of September, and on the Europeans of the Expedition the -effect of regular diet and well-cooked food, of amiable society and -perfect restfulness, was marvellous. - -We were rich in goods of all kinds, for in Mr. Mackay's keeping since -Mr. Stokes brought them from the coast in 1888, we possessed about 200 -loads of bulky currency and forty loads of preserved provisions. Thirty -loads of cloth were instantly distributed among the people on account, -at cost price, that each man might make amends during our rest for any -late privations. We had also fourteen pack-donkeys, which were delivered -to the Pasha's followers, and the Pasha, Casati, and myself, were able -to purchase riding asses from the French Missionaries at Bukumbi, who -were good enough to visit us with valuable gifts of garden produce. From -their stores our officers were enabled to purchase very necessary -outfits, such as boots, slippers, shirts, and hats, which made them -presentable once more. - -[Illustration: VIEW FROM MACKAY'S MISSION, LAKE VICTORIA (_from a -photograph_).] - -We were also able to obtain about twenty carriers, to assist in the -carriage of goods, that more of our Zanzibaris might be detailed for -hammock service; and yet after a stay of nineteen days, with as much -food as they could eat, and as great a variety as the country--by no -means badly stocked--could provide, when they were mustered for the -march the day before leaving Makolo's, there were over one hundred -people who complained of asthma, chest, spleen, liver, or lumbar pains, -and declared they could not travel. - -The evening before the day we resumed our journey for the sea Messrs. -Mackay and Deakes, the only two members of the Mission at present at -Makolo's (Messrs. Gordon and Walker having just departed for Uganda -before we arrived) gave us a sumptuous dinner, roast beef, roast fowl, -stews, rice and curry, plum-pudding, and a bottle of medical wine. And -as is the custom in civilised lands, speeches terminated the banquet. It -fell to my share to propose the health of Emin Pasha, and to Mr. Mackay -to propose mine, and there was no member then present who was not the -recipient of most friendly wishes on the part of everybody else, -delivered, as I thoroughly believe, in perfect sincerity. - - _The last letter from_ MR. A. M. MACKAY. - -"USAMBIRO, -"_January 5th, 1890._ - -"MY VERY DEAR SIR, - - "I have no less than three valuable letters from you, viz., two - dated Usongo, and one from Ugogo. The last arrived here on 1st - December. - - "Since the French priests passed this way to overtake your - Expedition, I have not sent off a post to the coast. - - "I was most pleased to hear of your satisfactory progress; and - doubtless you are, by this time, comfortably housed in civilized - territory, and enjoying a more than well-earned rest after the - fatigues and privations of African travel. If any man merits the - congratulations of Europe, certainly you do. But you will likely - soon be sick of being feted everywhere, and in disgust, retire into - some out-of-the-way corner to write the full account of your - remarkable adventures. What a strange loneliness hung about this - place--physically and mentally--after you left, goes without - saying. The looked-for mail did not come; only the carriers - returned from Kisokwe, on October 23rd, without any letters from - the coast. Although on December 1st we got a batch of letters, but - no papers or magazines. These will come some time. - - "Deakes has been a good deal unwell, but now fully recovered, while - the commencement of the rains has laid up nearly all my colony of - Baganda with protracted low fever. Your man, Ali bin Said, died on - September 27th, and one of the Pasha's whites, Mohammed Arabi, died - on October 20th. The others, eight in number, have all fully - recovered, and are at work. - - "I have fitted up my steam engine, and find pumps complete, and - also riveted the boiler, both outer shell and firebox. The boiler - has been a serious job, as fourteen years of knocking about have - thrown every plate out of shape, besides turning the iron, - originally of 'Best' brand, with a brittle, steely sort of thing, - which determined to crack on the first touch of a hammer. But by - carefully annealing the whole, I have succeeded. I am now rigging - up a steam saw-mill, to cut up the planks for the new boat. The - rough boat, or transformed canoe, which you saw here in progress, - is now nearly finished, and should have been completed some time - ago; but I have not been able to look after it, owing to occupation - at other work, including printing for Buganda. - - "You will have heard that, after severe fighting, the Christians - defeated Kalema and his Arab party, and have replaced Mwanga on the - throne. They have taken possession of all the chieftainships for - themselves, equally dividing them between the Roman Catholics and - the Protestants. An active young fellow named Kagwa Apollo, a pupil - of my own, is now the Katekiro. - - "Mwanga is altogether in the hands of the new Christian chiefs, and - they do not seem likely to allow him to have his own way any more. - Five of the Frenchmen, including their Bishops, are now there, - while our Mission is represented by only Walker and Gordon. - - "I can hear nothing of the I. B. E. A. Co., except the old report - of February from Zanzibar, that they were at Ulu. They seem to - require a man of determination and pluck at their head; and my joy - will be great when I hear of your undertaking to put their affairs - on a sound footing. I am glad to hear of Mr. Mackinnon being - knighted. He well deserves the honour. I have written to his agents - in Zanzibar, explaining the absurdity of their acceding to - Germany's wish to draw the boundary-line west of this Lake, along - the 1st parallel of S. Lat., as that would cut the kingdom of - Buganda into two halves; for Karagwe, Usui, and Usinja, as far - south as Serombo, are actually part of Buganda, being tributary to - it. No _paper_ delimitation, made in Berlin or London, can ever - remove these states from their allegiance to Buganda. Therefore, - there need be little jealousy about the matter. The only fair - boundary-line that I can see would be from this end of the long - creek (Smith Sound) diagonally S.W. to the intersection of the 4th - parallel with the 32nd degree of E. long., and then straight west - to Bikani on the Tanganika. - - "Many chiefs to the S.W. have been visiting here personally, and - others sending; and I mean to send these letters their way to Uyin, - as the wretched Nindo people are too grasping for my taste. - - "I sent cloth, etc., to Nindo, to redeem your rifle taken from your - messenger; but the rascally Mwanangwa has stuck to both ransom and - rifle, under pretext of some quarrel with Stokes; so I give that - crew a wide berth. - - "I hear, on good authority, that the Banyoro, whom you fought, were - not a chance raiding gang, but Kabba-Rega's own army, which he sent - expressly to check your advance. He was so terrified at the defeat - of his troops that he took refuge on an island in the Albert Lake. - Mwanga sent here a deputation, a month after you left, craving your - assistance. - - "The Arabs seem now completely discomfited, and have fled from - Nagu. Said bin Saif's (Kipanda) dhow, with a cargo of guns and kegs - of powder, was captured by Mwanga's people, and the vessel - destroyed. Sunguru's likewise. Stokes' boat is, at this moment, the - only one on the Lake. The _Eleanor_ I have cut up, as being too - rotten for further use, but hope soon to launch the other boat, - which may do good service till I get the steam launch afloat. - - "I have no definite news of the coast. I only heard of the - re-establishment of the Germans at Mpwapwa. Surely, they will learn - wisdom in time, but hitherto, they have made a sorry hash of - matters. I only hope they and the English will keep the gunpowder - out. In no other way will they ever be able to exercise any control - on the chiefs in the Interior. - - "'To be, or not to be; that is the question.' Is it to be a track - to the Lake or not? I see in you the only hope for this region, in - your getting Sir W. Mackinnon to see the matter in its true light. - I would not give sixpence for all the Company will do in half a - century to come, unless they join the Lake with the coast by a - line, let it be at first ever so rough. When they have got that, - they will have broken the backbone of native cantankerousness. - - "Very many thanks for your kindness in proposing to leave the - theodolite for me at Kisokwe. I hope it will come this far in - safety. I shall value it doubly as a souvenir from your hands. - -"With very best wishes, -"Believe me ever, -"My dear Sir, -"Yours faithfully, -(Signed) "A. M. MACKAY. - - "H. M. STANLEY, Esq." - - -To my great grief, I learn that Mr. Mackay, the best missionary since -Livingstone, died about the beginning of February. Like Livingstone, he -declined to return, though I strongly urged him to accompany us to the -coast. - - - - -CHAPTER XXXV. - -FROM THE VICTORIA NYANZA TO ZANZIBAR. - - Missionary work along the shores of the Victoria Nyanza and along - the Congo River--The road from Mackay's Mission--The country at - Genge--Considerable difficulty at preserving the peace at - Kungu--Rupture of peace at Ikoma--Capture and release of - Monangwa--The Wasukuma warriors attack us, but finally - retire--Treachery--The natives follow us from Nera to Seke--We - enter the district of Sinyanga: friendship between the natives and - our men--Continued aggression of the natives--Heavy - tributes--Massacre of a caravan--The district of Usongo, and its - chief Mittinginya--His surroundings and neighbours--Two French - missionaries overtake us--Human skulls at Ikungu--We meet one of - Tippu-Tib's caravans from Zanzibar--Troubled Ugogo--Lieut. Schmidt - welcomes us at the German station of Mpwapwa--Emin Pasha visits the - Peres of the French mission of San Esprit--The Fathers unacquainted - with Emin's repute--Our mails in Africa continually going - astray--Contents of some newspaper clippings--Baron von Gravenreuth - and others meet us at Msua--Arrival of an Expedition with European - provisions, clothing and boots for us--Major Wissman--He and - Schmidt take Emin and myself on to Bagamoyo--Dinner and guests at - the German officers' mess-house--Major Wissman proposes the healths - of the guests; Emin's and my reply to the same--Emin's accident--I - visit Emin in the hospital--Surgeon Parke's report--The feeling at - Bagamoyo--Embark for Zanzibar--Parting words with Emin - Pasha--Illness of Doctor Parke--Emin Pasha enters the service of - the German Government--Emin Pasha's letter to Sir John Kirk--Sudden - termination of Emin's acquaintance with me--Three occasions when I - apparently offended Emin--Emin's fears that he would be - unemployed--The British East African Company and Emin--Courtesy and - hospitality at Zanzibar--Moneys due to the survivors of the Relief - Expedition--Tippu-Tib's agent at Zanzibar, Jaffar Tarya--The - Consular Judge grants me an injunction against Jaffar Tarya--At - Cairo--Conclusion. - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -Sept. 16. - -Victoria - -Nyanza.] - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -Sept. 17. - -Victoria - -Nyanza.] - -It is fifteen years ago this month since I first saw this Victorian Sea, -and launched my boat on its waters, and sailed along the shores, peering -into the bays and creeks, and mapping out the area. Six months later -those two journals, the "Daily Telegraph" and "New York Herald" -published the fact to every person who could afford the small sum of one -penny, that the greatest Lake of Africa had been explored, and that at -the north end of the Lake there was an African King ruling three -millions of cleanly people, who cried out that he was in darkness and -required light. And some good men heard the cry, and responded to it -nobly. They sent missionaries to the King, and for years they taught him -and his people, at first with little success, but by-and-by some of the -seed fell upon good soil, and it took root and flourished, and despite -the tares and the thistles and rank grasses that grew in the virgin -soil, there was a good harvest. - -In turning towards the sea, the thought came across my mind that -elsewhere on the Congo, for 1400 miles from the western ocean, it had -been permitted to me to float the steamers along that river, and build -the Stations on its banks, which in 1887 were to be of great service to -me to carry myself and my followers along the great river, and to offer -shelter where we should meet with welcome and hospitality in the same -manner, as this Missionary Station, which we were about to leave, had -received us in 1889 with honour and regard. Truly I felt inclined to use -the metaphor of the Preacher, and to admit that the bread I had cast -upon the waters had returned to me abundantly after many days. - -I do not propose to linger long over the lands intervening between Lake -Victoria and Bagamoyo. I have already described them, and it is needless -to repeat what is already written. - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -Sept. 18. - -Genge] - -The road from Mackay's Mission takes a south-easterly direction in order -to cross the little stream, which as it approaches the creek at the -south-eastward of Lake Victoria forms a swamp about five yards wide. It -then turns northerly, runs parallel with the creek a little way, and -then strikes easterly over a low plain, where the soil seems to be so -poor as to grow a grass not much higher than rock moss. The 500 yards -wide swamp reminded me that the French missionaries, since their -settlement near the Lake at Bukumbi, have ascertained that the Lake is -now three feet lower than when they first settled here--that is about -eleven years ago--that Ukerewe is no longer an island but is a -peninsula. If this be true, and there is no reason to doubt it, and -assuming that the decrease of the Lake has been uniform, a decrease of -fifty feet in the Lake has required 183 years. At the time when -Frederick the Great was crowned King of Prussia Lake Victoria must have -been over 40,000 square miles in extent. It covers now, by this last -discovery at the south-western extremity of the Lake, as near as I am -able to measure it 26,900 square miles. - -The appearance of the country at Genge, which had steadily improved -since leaving the neighbourhood of Makolo inlet, suggested to our -coloured people that the missionaries had not made a wise choice in -settling in Usambiro. They did not reflect that the more populous a -district in Usukuma, or Unyamwezi is, it becomes less tenable to poor -missionaries, that the taxes, demands, and blackmail of the headstrong -and bumptious chief would soon be so onerous that starvation would be -imminent and the oppression unbearable. - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -Sept. 20. - -Ikoma.] - -As, for instance, we reached Ikoma on the 20th. At Genge and at Kungu we -had considerable difficulty in preserving the peace. The path was beset -by howling mobs, who came up dancing and uttering war-cries. This -mattered very little, but some demon of a youth was mischievous enough -to push both parties into a wordy war about whether we were cannibals or -not. They took the cicatrices on the Soudanese's features as proof that -they were maneaters, and maneaters had no business in their country. But -while something like a camp was being formed, though bush was scarce, -and grass was not to be discovered, there came a follower of the -Egyptians, a sinister-looking object; an arrow had pierced his arm, his -head was gashed with an axe, he had been robbed of his clothes and -allowance of cloth at Zanzibar, and his rifle. Two words were only -needed to have amply revenged him. We pocketed it, and many another -insult that day, and the next we marched to Ikoma, the residential -district of the chief, and naturally, being the seat of power, it was -four times more populous. - -Our business at Ikoma was very simple. Mr. Mackay had informed us that -Mr. Stokes, the English ivory trader, had a station there, that the -principal chief, Malissa, was his friend, and that at this station Mr. -Stokes had a supply of European provisions--biscuits, butter, ham, -bacon, &c.--that he wished to dispose of. Well, we were ten Europeans in -number, every one of whom was blessed with devouring appetites. We -agreed to call that way and purchase them at any cost, and Mr. Mackay -furnished us with two Zanzibari guides. Therefore, though the Kungu -natives had been dangerously insolent, we thought that at Malissa's, the -friend of Stokes, we should be asked to overlook the matter, as being -mere noisy ebullitions of a few intractable youths. - -Before us, in the centre of a plain which three or four centuries ago, -perhaps, was covered with the waters of Lake Victoria, there rose what -must have been once a hilly island, but now the soil had been thoroughly -scoured away, and left the frame of the island only in ridges of grey -gneissic rock, and ruined heaps of monoliths and boulders and vast rock -fragments, and under the shadow, and between these in narrow levels, -were grouped a population of about 5000 people; and within sound of -musket-shot, or blare of horn, or ringing cries, were congeries of -hamlets out on the plain round about this natural fortress, and each -hamlet surrounded by its own milk-weed hedge. In the plain west of the -isleted rock-heaps, I counted twenty-three separate herds of cattle, -besides flocks of sheep and goats, and we concluded that Ikoma was -prosperous, and secure in its vast population and its impregnable -rock-piles. - -As we drew near there came scores of sleek and merry youths and girls, -who kept laughing and giggling and romping about us like healthy, -guileless young creatures, enjoying their youth and life. We travelled -up a smooth easy pass flanked by piles of rocks rising to 200 feet above -us, which narrowed somewhat as we approached the chief's village. -Presently a multitude of warriors came forward on the double quick -towards us, making a brave display of feathers, shining spears, and -floating robes, and drew up in front of the column to drive it back. -They were heard shrilly screaming and sputtering their orders to the -guides, who were telling them that we were only a caravan--friends of -Stokes and Malissa; but the madmen drowned every word with storms of -cries, and menaced the guides and men of the advance. I walked up to -ascertain what was the matter, and I became an object to some fellows, -who raced at me with levelled spears. One man seized my rifle; two -Zanzibaris came up to my assistance, and tore the rifle from his hands; -bows were drawn, and spears were lifted; two of our men were wounded, -and in a second we were engaged in clearing the crowd away. In this -close _melee_ about ten lives were lost, and a Monangwa was captured. -After this burst of hostility there would be no chance of purchasing -provisions, and as the rocks had already begun to be lined with -musketeers and bowmen, we had to withdraw as quickly as possible from -the pass, and form camp somewhere before we should be overwhelmed. - -We found a pool of water near the end of the loose rock ridges; a huge -monolith or two stood upright like Druids' stones outside. We completed -the circle with bales and boxes, and grassy huts, and camped to wait the -upshot. - -From our camp we could see the ancient bed of the Lake spreading out for -a distance of many miles. Every half-mile or so there was a large -cluster of hamlets, each separated from the other by hedges of -milk-weed. The plain separating these clusters was common pasture -ground, and had been cropped by hungry herds as low as stone moss. On -our way to the camp a herd of cattle had been captured, but they had -been released; we had a Monangwa in our hands, and we asked him what all -this was about. He could not, or he would not, answer. We clothed him in -fine cloths, and sent him away to tell Malissa that we were white men, -friends of Stokes, that we had many Wasukuma porters in our caravan, and -that we had no intention of fighting anybody, but of going to the coast -as quickly as possible. The chief was escorted within a quarter of a -mile of Malissa's village, and released. He did not return, but during -the day there were several efforts made to annoy us, until at 4 P.M., -from the north, east and south, appeared three separate multitudes, for -a great effort. It was then the machine-gun was prepared. - -[Illustration: ROCK HILLS, USAMBIRO.] - -The Wasukuma swayed closer up, but cautiously, and, it appeared to me, -reluctantly. In front of the mob coming from the south were several -skirmishers, who pranced forward to within 300 yards. One of the -skirmishers was dropped, and the machine showered about a hundred and -fifty rounds in their direction. Not one of the natives was hit, but the -great range and bullet shower was enough. They fled; a company was sent -out to meet the eastern mob, another was sent to threaten the crowd to -the north, and the Wasukuma yielded and finally retired. Only one native -was killed out of this demonstration made by probably 2000 warriors. - -We had other things to do than fight Wasukuma, and therefore on the 21st -we resumed the coastward march. We had been disappointed in obtaining -those provisions of ham and bacon, and Malissa had lost his gifts of -cloth which we had made ready for him. - -We were not long on the march before the entire population of Urima -seemed to be gathering on our flanks, and at 8 A.M. a dash was made on -the column. There was not much necessity of telling the Egyptians and -their followers to keep close together. Nothing could be better than -their behaviour for our purpose. They were gathered in a close packed -mob. In front of them were two companies, and in rear was the rearguard, -Bonny's Soudanese, and Shukri Agha's company. The Wasukuma could make no -impression whatever on the column had they been treble their number, and -yet they seemed to be so sure that in some manner they would be able to -do something. But we continued on our way, pursued on flank and in rear -until noon, when we reached Muanza, on the edge of Jordan's Nullah, -which was a crooked rift in the old lacustrine deposit forty yards wide -and thirty feet deep, whence water was obtained from pits in the sand. - -[Illustration: OUR EXPERIENCES IN USUKUMA.] - -As the natives hovered round us we thought that we should make another -trial to cause them to abate their fierce rancour, and we sent -Poli-Poli, the chief Wasukuma guide, to talk to him. Poli-Poli literally -means, "Go gently, gently." An hour's crying out from a distance -succeeded in inducing a Monangwa and four of his men to approach and -enter our camp, and the camp was so absorbed with this arrival and -prospect of a happy termination to the "war." While we were exchanging -tokens of good will and professions of peace, and cutting out some cloth -for them, as an earnest of our intentions, the Wasukuma had been allowed -to approach. The Monangwa, and his friends had left my tent about five -minutes, perfectly satisfied apparently, when I heard about fifty rifle -shots fired in volleys. Running out I found that the enemy was right -among us. One of our men was dying from a spear wound, our goats were in -full flight, being driven away on the run, the bottom of the nullah was -covered with leaping forms. We had a very narrow escape from serious -loss; but seven natives were killed within ten yards of the camp, the -treacherous Monangwa received a bullet in the shoulder and lost his -cloth, and we recovered our goats. - -We marched on the next morning at the usual hour; the villages were -arranged on each side of our track in one continued series, and the -population of S. Nera turned out _en masse_. But the natives confined -themselves to following us in a dense column stretching for quite two -miles, every now and then firing at us from heavily loaded muskets. For -three hours we continued in this manner, until as we were about leaving -Nera, and entering Mamara, they uttered a series of war-cries, and made -another effort. Dropping our loads we raced towards them, and in a -minute's time they were on the full trot in retreat. We lifted our loads -and resumed our journey; but the natives presently re-collected, and -followed us on the flanks as far as Seke--a fatiguing march of six -hours. - -On the 23rd we proceeded from N. Seke to Seke Kwikuru, or Seke the -capital, vast crowds hanging on our flanks as before. Though we knew -that trifling mercies, such as we were able to show, seldom made any -impression on tribes quivering under extraordinary excitement and rage -for battle, nevertheless we abstained from needlessly augmenting this -causeless madness against us, and only halted a few minutes to repel a -rush. - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -Sept. 22. - -Seke.] - -We were all in sad want of water and rest. Our cattle and riding animals -had not been watered for two days, and at Seke the water was brackish -and scarce. The sun was at its hottest. Our faces were baked and -cracking. The grass was so short that the cattle were feeding upon the -roots to obtain subsistence. - -The next day was a halt. The natives appeared to within 800 yards of our -camp; but after a few shots they dispersed, and we were left to enjoy -the first rest gained after seven days' continuous travel and fighting. - -Entering Sinyanga on the 25th, we were welcomed with "lu-lu-lus" by the -women, and as they had heard all about our "little war" with Usukuma, -every elder we met expressed a hope that we had cleared the wicked -people out, for they were always a cursed lot, bothering travellers and -strangers. - -As we marched from one petty district to another, each independent from -the other, governed by its own chief and council of elders, exclusive -from its own peculiar customs, habits, or passion, varying differently -from the other according to the age, intelligence, and disposition of -the chief, our duties and rule of conduct varied. We moved through petty -spheres, wherein our duties varied according to the demands made upon -us. Here was the small district of Sinyanga with a population not -exceeding 2000. The chief and his headmen were as proud of their little -state as any monarch and his senate might be of an empire. The chief was -conscious of weakness, and that imprudent aggressiveness would prove -speedy ruin; but he exacted his dues all the same. We paid them freely -and with kindly words. The chief reciprocated the kindness, returned a -gift to mark his pleasure, then his people flocked to the camp to -exchange their grain and produce for cloth and beads, during which many -a friendship and brotherly act was formed between the natives and our -men. - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -Sept. 25. - -Sinyanga.] - -In Urima and Nera again, even on its frontiers, they pounced down on us -like wolves, with war-cries and insulting by-plays. Our flanks were -thronged with hooting warriors and jeering youths and fleering girls; -they annoyed us by gestures, wounded our sense of hearing by shrill -insolent screams and savage taunts. All this may be borne with -equanimity. Words do not hurt, but it makes us circumspect and reticent. -When we arrive in camp the mobs are greater; a knot of lusty long-legged -youths hang about the tents, flourish their weapons, blow their shrill -war-flutes, and artfully pursue a cunning system of annoyance. All this -is due to the belief that our forbearance means fear. They look around -and see their numbers fourfold more than our own. They whisper to one -another like village louts and bullies, "What a pity that we can't kick -up a row. Ah, if there was, I would soon make myself master of that -cloth, or that gun, or the things in those boxes, &c., &c." The chief is -carried away by this consuming desire, and relying upon the assurances -that it would be an easy matter to make a row and find an excuse, he -commits himself to some imprudent scheme, and, when too late, mourns the -failure but not the event. They cannot plead ignorance as the new tribes -can. Fifteen years ago I travelled through Usukuma, paying no more than -ten or twelve cloths to any chief, and receiving a good ox or a couple -of goats in return. Since that time, however, missionary after -missionary, both English and French, and Arab caravans have made Usukuma -a highway to the Victoria Lake. The tributes have been raised by the -chief to 300 doti--L90 per petty district. To three petty districts the -French missionaries were compelled to pay 900 doti of cloth--L270. L270 -sterling on three days' journey! These cloths will purchase guns which -will make them still more formidable to missionaries, and the result -will be in a few years that a small tribal chief will demand every scrap -of cloth in the caravan, and will halt it until it is paid, as Usui -stopped a caravan of 150 guns. - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -Sept. 25. - -Sinyanga.] - -Khambi Mbya--a nickname of an Arab who camped in Nera two years -ago--was homeward bound from Uganda with his ivory. The tribute had been -paid. A little personal dispute followed soon after between a woman of -the camp, and a herdsman at a pool, as to whether the woman should take -water first, or the cattle. The herdsman raised the war-cry, which -resulted in the massacre of every man, woman, and child in the caravan. - -Messrs. Ashe and Walker, C.M.S. missionaries, were seized, I am told, by -one of these petty chiefs, and detained until they were ransomed by -Mackay. Mr. Stokes, who is compelled by his business of trading in -ivory, like many an Arab trader before him, to be patient and -long-suffering, must have experienced many unhappy moments when he saw -his carriers dropping their bales and flying before a noisy mob of -bullies. The French missionaries have abandoned Usambiro Station, and -taken their residence in Bukumbi. Mr. Mackay has left Msalala, and built -a station at Makolo's. If these natives possessed any sense, or could -have been touched by shame after being so generously treated and -honoured by these missionaries, they would not drive them away by -extortion and oppression. - -On the 4th of October we arrived at Stokes' boma, in the country of his -friend Mittinginya. The king's capital lies about three-fourths of a -mile to the south-east, and is a square enclosure of wattle and mud. -Bullets might be rained against the walls for weeks without disastrous -effects to those within, and provided the defenders had fuel, food, and -water sufficient, and were properly vigilant, these fort-like structures -would be impregnable except against cannon. The district of Usongo, of -which Mittinginya is chief, is studded pretty thickly with these -structures, and excepting the stubborn old baobab no bush or plant -obstructs the view between each tembe. - -[Sidenote: 1889 - -Oct. 4. - -Usongo.] - -The chief has the faculty of getting embroiled with his neighbours, or -his neighbours must be unusually quarrelsome, or they mutually suffer -from an innate restlessness which drives them one against the other -with angry muskets. To the north is a chief called Simba, to the west he -has the people of Uyogu, behind these he has Kapera and his allies the -Watuta or Wangoni,--Equatorial Zulus; to the south the predatory -Wataturu, descendants of Somalis; to the north-east Wandui; and we -accidentally stumbled into this hornet's nest of angry tribes, led to do -it by reports of Mittinginya's good nature, and in the hope that we -should be able to obtain a few carriers for our ever-wailing Egyptians. - -To emphasize the visible unrest here, the chief has invited a horde of -wild Masai from the district of Lyteri, west of Kilima-Njaro, to assist -him in his ambitious projects. The Masai had already distinguished -themselves against the Watuta-Zulus; the Wanduis had become as -dumb-dogs. Seeing quiet strangers owning donkeys, the Masai quietly made -themselves masters of four, which however they were compelled to return, -and after eight days' halt we were able to leave Stokes's friend with -his hornets humming round him, with twenty fresh carriers to carry the -ulcerous Egyptians without being implicated in any feud. - -On the 17th we entered Ikungu, where we were overtaken by two French -missionaries, Peres Girault and Schintze,[35] who were invalids--it was -said, homeward bound and were desirous of availing themselves of our -escort to the sea. - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -Oct. 17. - -Ikungu.] - -Around the milk-weed hedges that surrounded the chief's village were -over a hundred human skulls, while innumerable fragments strewed the -vicinity. Inquiring what calamity had occurred, I was told they were the -remains of a tribe of Wanyaturu, over 400 strong, who had fled to Ikungu -from Ituru, in the hope of saving themselves from famine. What articles -they had brought with them were soon sold for food which they consumed, -and then they sold their children and their wives, and when they had -nothing left they died. The children were of mulatto colour, and very -superior to the sable urchins of Unyamwezi. - -We met a caravan from Zanzibar at this place belonging to Tippu-Tib, and -the Manyuema reported that the coast war between the Germans and Coast -Arabs was still proceeding, but that the Germans had commenced to be -victorious. - -On the 26th we entered Muhalala, and by the 8th of November we had -passed through Ugogo. There is no country in Africa that has excited -greater interest in me than this. It is a ferment of trouble and -distraction, and a vermin of petty annoyances beset the travellers from -day to day while in it. No natives know so well how to aggrieve and be -unpleasant to travellers. One would think there was a school somewhere -in Ugogo to teach low cunning and vicious malice to the chiefs, who are -masters in foxy-craft. Nineteen years ago I looked at this land and -people with desiring eyes. I saw in it a field worth some effort to -reclaim. In six months I felt sure Ugogo could be made lovely and -orderly, a blessing to the inhabitants and to strangers, without any -very great expense or trouble; it would become a pleasant highway of -human intercourse with far-away peoples, productive of wealth to the -natives, and comfort to caravans. I learned on arrival in Ugogo that I -was for ever debarred from the hope. It is to be the destiny of the -Germans to carry out this work, and I envy them. It is the worst news of -all that I shall never be able to drain this cesspool of iniquitous -passion, and extinguish the insolence of Wagogo chiefs, and make the -land clean, healthy, and even beautiful of view. While my best wishes -will accompany German efforts, my mind is clouded with a doubt that it -ever will be that fair land of rest and welcome I had dreamed of making -it. - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -Oct. 26. - -Ugogo.] - -Two days beyond Ugogo we entered the German Station of Mpwapwa, and were -welcomed by Lieutenant Rochus Schmidt, who had arrived about a month -previous, escorted by Major Wissman, who was said to be the Imperial -Commissary of German East Africa. He had already erected a stone -breastwork around his little camp, which contained 100 Zulus, on a -commanding but windy spot that must needs be fatal to many a white -officer whose misfortune it may be to be appointed Military Commandant -of Mpwapwa. - -The Rev. Mr. Price paid us a visit, and among other benefits resulting -from his presence we obtained a year's issue of the 'Weekly Times.' In -turning over the pages of the voluminous history of the past year, I was -impressed by nothing more than by the smoothness and easy groove in -which events were running, without jar or sensible vibration. The hum of -their travel seemed to be like that which we hear on a drowsy summer's -day at a country house in England, remote from the roll of street -traffic and the thundering rush of express trains. A distant murmuring -sound of railway waggons gliding over a pair of rails impresses the dull -ear, amid the quiet and repose, that the world is spinning safely along -without rack or tear. England was still at anchor amidst the silver -seas; the Empire was where it ought to be; Europe was amusing herself -with peaceful drill, and America was gathering her splendid harvests, -and filling the Treasury cellars with gold ingots and silver bricks. - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -Nov. 18. - -Muini - -Usagara.] - -On the 13th, accompanied by Lieutenant Schmidt, the Expedition, about -700 strong, moved from Mpwapwa towards the coast, and five days later -exchanged the parched aspect of the thorny wilderness of the interior -for one that was fragrant with the perfume of lilies, and pleasant with -the verdure of spring. After a two hours' march from Muini Usagara, we -defiled out of the Mukondokwa Valley, and emerged into the plain of the -Makata, the sight of which, with its green grass and pleasant shady -trees and many groups of villages, after four months of droughty views, -roused the enthusiasm of each of our officers. A Pere from the French -Mission near Ferahani, established near the base of the mountains, -brought us a few welcome articles with their compliments and good -wishes. - -At Vianzi, two marches later, supplies reached us from Major Wissman. -They consisted of such assortments of provisions that only an explorer -of experience would have known would be most appreciated, and in such -prodigal abundance that our camp tables hence to the coast were loaded -with luxuries. - -On the 23rd we arrived at Simbamwenni, which is a town surrounded with a -mud wall enclosing about 400 conical houses. During the next day's halt -Lieut. Schmidt escorted Emin Pasha to see the good Peres of the French -Mission of San Esprit, who have commenced to work at Morogoro with the -same earnest thoroughness that has made their establishment at Bagamoyo -so famous. They have planted oranges, mangoes, plantains, vanilla, -cinnamon and coffee, and almost all fruits known in tropical lands, and -have led a clear and bounteous stream of water through their little -estate. - -Lieutenant Schmidt informed me that he was somewhat taken aback at the -fact that the Fathers, in their intense devotion to their own religious -duties, were unacquainted with the repute of his illustrious companion. -A Pere had asked him in a whisper, after eyeing the Pasha in wonder, -"Can he speak anything but Arabic?" and was astounded when he heard, -with that warmth so characteristic of young straightforward German -officers, that he could not only speak Arabic, but could speak French, -English, German, Turkish, Italian and Greek, with easy fluency, and that -he was German by birth. - -"Indeed! And is his expedition commercial, scientific, or military?" - -Then Lieutenant Schmidt, all amazed at the extraordinary seclusion of -the pious recluse, had to relate the whole story, and for the first time -he knew what business had brought me on my third visit to this region. - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -Nov. 24. - -Simbawenni.] - -The Pasha, who enjoyed the relation of the story, was asked to be -comforted, and for his solace I related how I had been introduced by a -Canon of Westminster Abbey to a well-known bishop--as one who had done -some good work on the Congo. The bishop hesitated a minute, and then -said blandly, "Ah, indeed, how very interesting! But pray tell me where -is the Congo." But sometimes laymen were found to be as ignorant of -Africa as bishops, as for instance the British Cabinet Minister, who, -receiving a commercial deputation from Manchester, relating to some -grievances on the Niger, calmly pointed the speaker to a map of Africa, -and asked him to be good enough to show the river in which the great -city of Manchester appeared to be so interested. - -On the 27th we arrived at Ungerengeri, and for the first time we -received a few letters. Never had any such fatality attended mails in -Africa as had attended ours. Three several times I had requested our -friends to despatch our letters to Msalala, south end of Lake Victoria, -bearing legibly a superscription to the effect that they were "to be -left until called for." Bushels of mails had been sent, and every packet -but one, containing three letters, had been lost in Unyoro, Uganda, and -Bushiri, an opponent of Major Wissman, had captured others. - -Among many newspaper clippings received, was one which was a tissue of -perverted truths. It appeared to have been sent from Zanzibar by a -native clerk in a telegram. It read as follows: - -Zanzibar, June 12th, 1889. - - "Stanley is reported to have arrived in Ururi, where he rested a - few days. He returned to Lake Victoria, leaving behind him - fifty-six sick men and forty-four rifles. Many of the sick had - died. Shortly after Mitchell arrived and took away the rifles. - Stanley was reported to have suffered serious losses from sickness - and want of food. Later Stanley came himself. Emin Pasha is - reported to be in Unyara, north-east of Lake Victoria, fifteen - days' march. Stanley having picked up all the men who were left, - returned to Emin after having given a letter to the writer to - convey to the Agent-General of the Company." - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -Nov. 27. - -Ungerengeri.] - -The precis of the intelligence received having been doctored by a writer -at Zanzibar, rendered the message still more unintelligible. The -intelligence was received at Zanzibar by an agent of the ivory raider, -Ugarrowwa, and was intended to read thus: - - "Stanley has arrived on the Ituri (River). He proceeded on his way - to Lake Albert after leaving fifty-six sick men and forty-four - rifles with me. Most of these sick men died a short time - afterwards. - - "Mazinga (Lieut. Stairs) came here and took away the rifles. I was - informed that Stanley suffered serious losses from sickness and - famine. Finally Stanley came here in person. - - "Emin Pasha is reported to be in Unyoro, north-east, a - fifteen-days' march from here (Ugarrowwa's Station). Stanley having - picked up all the men who were left (of the rear column), returned - to Emin, having given a letter to me to give the Consul-General. - (Ugarrowwa was anxious to obtain a letter of introduction to the - Consul, he being known at Zanzibar as Uledi Balyuz, or the Consul's - Uledi, in contradistinction to other Uledis, who are as common as - Smiths in England.") - -What with atrocities on the Aruwimi; Stanley's death by seventeen -arrows; communications from an officer of the Congo Free State; letters -from missionaries and engineers; Osman Digna's report of the capture of -Emin Pasha and another white man; invasions of the Soudan by a white -Pasha, &c., there is a good reason why English editors should be not a -little perplexed. However, "All is well that ends well." - -While halting at Msua, the Baron von Gravenreuth arrived, with 100 -soldiers. The Baron is a dashing soldier, fond of the excitement of -battle-strife, and in his attacks on the zeribas of the coast Arabs has -displayed considerable skill. It was most amusing to hear him remind me -how he had once applied to me for advice respecting equipment and -conduct in Africa, and that I had paternally advised him to read 'The -Congo and the Founding of its Free State,' "an advice--I may tell you -now--I followed, and I am glad of it." - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -Nov. 28. - -Msua.] - -[Illustration: BANQUET AT MSUA.] - -Soon after appeared two correspondents of American newspapers, one of -whom was Mr. Thomas Stevens, and the other Mr. Edmund Vizetelly, -representing the 'New York Herald.' The last-named gentleman brought -us quite a number of well-selected articles for personal comfort and -some provisions, by request of Mr. James Gordon Bennett, the proprietor -of the Journal in whose service I had undertaken two previous -expeditions into Africa, and had accompanied Sir Robert Napier into -Abyssinia in 1867 and 1868, and Sir Garnet Wolseley into Ashantee in -1873 and 1874. - -Two marches from Msua an expedition from the Imperial British East -African Company arrived in our camp, conveying for our use 170 -porter-loads of rice, and twenty-five cases of European provisions, -clothing and boots, so that each person in the column received -twenty-two pounds of rice, besides rations of salt, sugar, jams and -biscuits. - -The evening of December 3rd, as we were conversing in the moonlight, the -sound of a cannon was heard. It was the evening gun at Zanzibar, and the -Zanzibaris set up ear-piercing cries of joy at that which announced to -them that the long journey across the Continent was drawing near its -close, and the Egyptians and their followers echoed the shouts as the -conviction dawned on them that within the next twenty-four hours they -should see the ocean, on which with all comfort and leisure they would -be borne to the land of Egypt and to their future homes. - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -Dec. 4. - -Bagamoyo.] - -On arriving at the ferry of the Kingani River, Major Wissman came across -to meet us, and for the first time I had the honour of being introduced -to a colleague who had first distinguished himself, at the headquarters -of the Kasai River, in the service of the International Association, -while I was building stations along the main river. On reaching the -right bank of the Kingani we found some horses saddled, and turning over -the command of the column to Lieut. Stairs, Emin Pasha and myself were -conducted by Major Wissman and Lieut. Schmidt to Bagamoyo. Within the -coast-town we found the streets decorated handsomely with palm branches, -and received the congratulations of Banian and Hindu citizens, and of -many a brave German officer who had shared the fatigues and dangers of -the arduous campaign, which Wissman was prosecuting with such well -deserved success, against the Arab malcontents of German East Africa. -Presently rounding a corner of the street we came in view of the battery -square in front of Wissman's headquarters, and on our left, close at -hand, was the softly undulating Indian Sea, one great expanse of -purified blue. "There, Pasha," I said. "We are at home!" - -[Illustration: HOUSE AND BALCONY FROM WHICH EMIN FELL.] - -[Illustration: UNDER THE PALMS AT BAGAMOYO.] - -"Yes, thank God," he replied. At the same time, the battery thundered -the salute in his honour, and announced to the war-ships at anchor that -Emin, the Governor of Equatoria, had arrived at Bagamoyo. - -We dismounted at the door of the mess-house of the German officers, and -were conducted upstairs to a long and broad verandah about forty-five by -twenty-five feet, which had been converted into a palmy bower, gaily -decorated with palm branches and German flags. Several round tables were -spread, and on a wide buffet was arranged a sumptuous lunch, of which -our appetites enabled us to partake fearlessly; but dubious of the -effects of fine champagne after such long absence, I diluted it largely -with Sauerbrunn water. The Pasha was never gayer than on this afternoon, -when surrounded by his friends and countrymen he replied to their -thousand eager questions respecting the life he had endured during his -long exile in Africa. - -At four o'clock the column filed in, making a brave show. The people -were conducted to huts ready constructed near the beach, and as the -carriers dropped their loads and the long train of hammocks deposited -their grievous burdens of sick men and women, and poor children for the -last time on the ground, they, like myself, must have felt profound -relief and understood to the full what this arrival by the shore of the -sea meant. - -At 7.30 P.M. the banquet was to take place. As we mounted the stairs to -the broad verandah, the Pasha was met, having just left the lunch table -to dress for dinner. We assembled in the palmy bower, thirty-four -persons all told--English Vice-Consul, Mr. Churchill, German Consul, and -Italian Consul, Captain Brackenbury, of H.M.S. _Turquoise_, and -Commander T. Mackenzie Fraser, of H.M.S. _Somali_; the Consular Judge, -Captains Foss and Hirschberg, of the German warships _Sperber_ and -_Schwalbe_, Officers of the Imperial Commissary's Staff, Emin Pasha, -Captain Casati, Captain Nelson, Lieutenant Stairs, Surgeon Parke, Mr. -Jephson, Mr. Bonny, Peres Etienne and Schmidt of the Bagamoyo Mission, -Peres Girault and Schinze of the Algerian Mission, Officers of the -German East Africa Co., Baron St. Paul Illaire, and others; Mr. W. H. W. -Nicoll of the Imperial British East Africa, Captain of the Commissary's -Flotilla, &c. &c. The band of the _Schwalbe_ was in attendance to give -_eclat_ to what was a very superb affair for Bagamoyo. - -The guests having assembled, Major Wissman led the way to the long -banqueting-room, into which the central room of the house had been -converted on the occasion. While we were feasting within, the -Zanzibaris--tireless creatures--were celebrating the close of a -troublous period in the street just below the verandah, with animal -energy vented in active dance and hearty chorus. The banquet included -the usual number of dishes. I am utterly powerless to describe it. To me -it appeared wonderful for Bagamoyo. From extreme sensitive delicacy I -omitted to inquire of Wissman where he obtained his chef, and how it all -was managed. Without a particle of exaggeration the dinner was a -triumph. The wines were choice and well selected and iced, and had it -not been for the Sauerbrunn close at hand in unstinted quantity, which -rendered them innocuous by liberal dilution, I should soon have been -incompetent to speak of their merits. I had almost forgotten the -ceremony which follows banquets; but as the time drew near 9 o'clock, -and the music was hushed and Major Wissman rose to his feet, a -presentiment possessed me, that with benevolent tolerance of any -untowardness manifest during our late mission, he aimed at proposing to -the company that they should join him in drinking, to the good healths -of the guests Emin Pasha, Captain Casati, Mr. Stanley and the officers -of the Expedition which had concluded its labours by its arrival in the -port of German East Africa that day. As I supposed, so the gallant Major -spoke, in well-measured phrases, with genuine kindness and incomparable -cordiality; and the company rose to their feet to emphasize the -sentiments with hearty hurrahs. - -The principles of my reply were first, that I was unaware that Emin -Pasha was a German when I offered my services to carry relief to him; -that our thoughts were mainly of a brave Governor in difficulties, -guarding his province with a tenacity, courage and wisdom, against the -assaults of ferocious fanatics who had already eradicated every vestige -of civilization from the Soudan. Secondly, that as it had been proved by -former expeditions that success was only gained by hearty good will, -unwearied effort, and uttermost striving, my companions and myself, like -men animated with one mind, had devoted ungrudgingly every fibre, and -all our strength, morally and physically, to accomplish the purpose for -which we set out. And thirdly, that as the world educated men to become -indifferent to its praise or censure, that as neither perfection nor -devotion ensured its favour, as misfortune insured its contempt, success -its envy or hate, and that as an individual might be won by sacrifice, -but that no individual possessed merit or could command fortune enough -to win the admiration of all--the safest plan was to seek the approval -of one's conscience; and fourthly, that though we had but proposed, it -was God who had disposed events as He saw fit. "Emin is here, Casati is -here. I and my friends are all here; wherefore we confess that we have a -perfect and wholesome joy in knowing that, for a season at least, the -daily march and its fatigues are at an end." - -The Pasha's speech, delivered with finished elocution,--clear, distinct, -and grammatical--and a deep, resonant voice, took the company with an -agreeable surprise, and was mainly an outpouring of gratitude to the -generous English people who had thought of him, to his German countrymen -for their kind reception of him, and to His Imperial Majesty Wilhelm II. -for his gracious message of welcome and congratulation. - -An effusive gladness pervaded the company. If there were several whose -hearts overflowed with undisguised pleasure at the thought that a -period of restfulness was to begin with the morning's sun--others -rejoiced from a pure and generous sympathy. But the Pasha was supremely -gay and happy. He was seen wandering from one end of the table to the -other, now bending over Pere Etienne; then exchanging innocent gaiety -with Surgeon Parke, and many others; while I was absorbed in listening -to Wissman's oral account of the events of the East Coast War. Presently -Sali, my boy-steward, suddenly whispered in my ear that the Pasha had -fallen down, which I took to mean "stumbled over a chair," but -perceiving that I did not accept it as a serious incident, he added, "he -has fallen over the verandah wall into the street and is dangerously -hurt." - -The banquet was forgotten. Sali led me down the stairs to the street, -and at a spot removed about twenty feet from the place where he had -fallen there were two little pools of blood. The accident seems to have -occurred within fifteen minutes after the delivery of his speech, and -some minutes must have elapsed before I was informed, for the Pasha had -been dragged away, and water had been poured over the head of the -unconscious man, and then he had been borne to the German Hospital, and -the native dance and song had continued undisturbed. - -Hastening after my guide, with my mind oppressed by this sudden -transition from gaiety to gloom, from joy to grief, from the upright -figure glowing with pleasure, and radiant with joy to the silent form on -the verge of the grave, I reached the hospital, and at the door met a -German officer who with uplifted hands revealed the impressions gathered -from his view of the unfortunate man. Guided upstairs, I was shown to a -bed surrounded by an anxious-looking group. On obtaining a view, I saw -the Pasha's form half undressed extended on the bed, wet bandages passed -over the right side of the head and right eye. A corner of the wetted -lint was lifted up, and I saw that the right eye was closed by a great -lump formed by swollen tissues, and discovered that the lint was -crimson with blood oozing from the ear. No one seemed to be able to give -an exact account of how the accident happened, but the general -impression seemed to be that the Pasha, who was half-blind, and had been -so for the last two years, had moved somewhat too briskly towards the -verandah, or balcony wall of that "palmy bower" wherein we had lunched, -to look at the happy natives dancing in the moonlight, and misjudging -its height, had leaned over suddenly and too far, and before he had -recovered his balance had toppled on to the zinc shed, over the sidewalk -and into the street, a fall of about fourteen feet from the edge of the -shed. Lieut. Rochus Schmidt had instantly been informed, and hurrying -into the street, found the Pasha unconscious, and had attempted to rouse -him by pouring cold water over his head, and failing in this had him -conveyed to the hospital. - -Next morning Surgeon Parke reported to me that the Pasha had remained -completely unconscious until near dawn, and that though the accident was -undoubtedly a serious one, it need not be considered dangerous, as he -had examined him, and could discover no fracture of the skull, the blood -from the ear having issued from injured arteries, and that provided no -inflammation supervened he might be easily removed within ten days. The -Pasha was much bruised on his right side and back, and was in a most -painful condition. - -Two German surgeons from the war-ships, however, announced that after a -careful examination they had come to the conclusion that the Pasha's -condition was most dangerous, that there was an unmistakable fracture -near the base of the skull, and that only 20 per cent. of such cases -ever recovered. - -There was not one European at Bagamoyo but felt extremely grieved at the -sad event that had wrecked the general joy. The feeling was much deeper -than soldiers will permit themselves to manifest. Outwardly there was no -manifestation; inwardly men were shocked that his first day's greeting -among his countrymen and friends should have proved so disastrous to -him after fourteen years' absence from them. What the Emir Karamallah -and his fanatics, a hundred barbarous negro tribes, conspirators, and -rebel soldiery, and fourteen years of Equatorial heat had failed to -effect, an innocent hospitality had nearly succeeded in doing. At the -very moment he might well have said, Soul, enjoy thyself! behold, the -shadow of the grave is thrust across their vision. This extremely dismal -prospect and immediate blighting of joy made men chary of speech, and -solemnly wonder at the mishap. - -On the 6th of December our people were embarked on board H.M.S. _Somali_ -and three of Major Wissmann's steamers, and at 9 A.M. a fleet, -consisting of H.M.S. _Turquoise_, Capt. Brackenbury, with Lieut. Stairs, -Major Wissmann, Messrs. Jephson and Bonny on board, the _Sperber_, Capt. -Foss, with myself, Capt. Nelson, and four Algerian Peres, the -_Schwalbe_, Capt. Hirschberg, H.M.S. _Somali_, Commander Fraser, and -three vessels of Wissmann's steam flotilla, after lifting anchor, formed -line, and proceeded towards the island of Zanzibar. The sea a clear -blue, paling into a diluted green over reefs which flanked the course, -was lovely, and as the gentle wind met us, we respired deep draughts of -air free from taint and miasma. Oh! the deep relief I felt that this was -the end of that continual rising in the morning with a hundred moaning -and despairing invalids wailing their helplessness and imploring for -help, of those daily scenes of disease, suffering, and unmitigable -misery, and of the diurnal torture to which the long-enduring caravan -had been subjected during what seemed now to have been an age of hideous -troubles far beyond the range of anything we had anticipated when we so -lightheartedly accepted the mission of relieving the Governor of -Equatoria. - -[Sidenote: 1889. - -Dec. 6. - -Zanzibar.] - -[Illustration: THE RELIEF EXPEDITION RETURNING TO ZANZIBAR.] - -Now let me for a moment speak proudly. Knowing what my companions and I -know, we have this certain satisfaction, that let envy, malice, and -jealousy provoke men to say what they will, the acutest -cross-examination of witnesses in a court of justice would elicit -nothing more, so far as we are concerned, than a fuller recognition -and higher appreciation of the sacrifice and earnestness of the -endeavour which we freely and gratuitously gave to assist Emin Pasha and -Captain Casati, and their few hundreds of followers. Money time, years, -strength, health, life, anything and everything--freely, kindly, and -devotedly--without even giving one thought to a reward, which, whatever -its character might be, would be utterly inadequate as compensation. To -one like me, what are banquets? A crust of bread, a chop, and a cup of -tea, is a feast to one who, for the best part of twenty-three years, has -had the satisfaction of eating a shilling's worth of food a day. -Receptions! they are the very honours I would wish to fly from, as I -profess myself slow of speech, and Nature has not fitted me with a -disposition to enjoy them. Medals! I cannot wear them; the pleasure of -looking at them is even denied me by my continual absence. What then? -Nothing. No honour or reward, however great, can be equal to that subtle -satisfaction that a man feels when he can point to his work and say, -"See, now, the task I promised you to perform with all loyalty and -honesty, with might and main, to the utmost of my ability, and God -willing, is to-day finished." Say, is it well and truly done? And when -the employer shall confess that "it is well and done," can there be any -recompense higher than that to one's inward self? - -In the morning I had paid a visit to Emin Pasha. He was in great trouble -and pain. "Well, Pasha," I said. "I hope you don't mean to admit the -possibility that you are to die here, do you?" "Oh! no. I am not so bad -as that," and he shook his head. - -"By what I have seen, Pasha, I am entirely of same opinion. A person -with a fractured head could not move his head after that manner.[36] -Good-bye. Dr. Parke will remain with you until dismissed by you, and I -hope to hear good news from him daily." We shook hands and I withdrew. - -It may be curious, but it is true. Emin Pasha, who breathed a -cosmopolitan spirit while he was in the Interior, and who professed -broad views, became different in a few days. Only one day before we -reached Bagamoyo I had said to him, "Within a short time, Pasha, you -will be among your countrymen; but while you glow with pride and -pleasure at being once more amongst them, do not forget that they were -English people who first heard your cries in the days of gloom; that it -was English money which enabled these young English gentlemen to rescue -you from Khartoum." - -"Never; have no fear of that," replied the Pasha. - -Dr. Parke bore up, I am told, against much unpleasantness. But finally, -falling ill himself, to the peril of his life he was conveyed to the -French hospital in Zanzibar, where he lay as hopeless a case almost as -Emin Pasha immediately after his accident. Happily he recovered from the -severe illness that he had incurred while watching at the Pasha's -bedside. - -The reports were more and more unsatisfactory from Bagamoyo, and finally -I despatched my boy-steward Sali, who returned from his visit to the -Pasha protesting that he had been threatened with a short shrift if he -ever visited Bagamoyo again; and never message or note did I receive -from Emin, the late Governor of Equatoria. - -While writing this concluding chapter there appeared the announcement -that Emin Pasha had entered the service of the German Government in East -Africa. It was the conviction that he would do this that had caused me -to remind him on the 4th of December, that it was English money which -had enabled our Expedition to proceed to his relief and rescue. That he -has ultimately elected to serve Germany in preference to England appears -perfectly natural, and yet the mere announcement surprised a great many -of his warmest and most disinterested friends, among whom we may number -ourselves. - -For among the copies of letters relating to Emin Pasha, and the objects -of our Expedition supplied to me by the British Foreign Office, was a -copy of one purporting to have been written by Emin himself to Sir John -Kirk, offering to surrender his province to England before even he had -obtained authority from the Khedive to part with it. The appearance of -this letter in print vexed him greatly, as it seemed to accuse him of -seeking to betray the interests of the Government he was supposed to -have served so faithfully. Instead, however, of meeting with an agent of -England, empowered to treat with him for the delivery of the province to -the British Government, and to appoint him as the Governor of the -Province under British auspices, he was informed that the Egyptian -Government, acting under the advice of the British representative at -Cairo, had only availed themselves of our Expedition to convey to him -their wish that he would retire from Equatoria with such troops as were -willing to accompany him, failing which he was to be left to stay in the -land on his own responsibility. Those who are interested in motives will -not find it difficult, therefore, to understand the apparent hesitation -and indecision that he seemed to labour under when questioned by me as -to his intentions. For nothing could have been more unexpected and -unwelcome than the official letters from the Khedive and Nubar Pasha -which declared their resolve to abandon the province, except the -absolute silence of British officials, or British philanthropists, or -commercial companies, respecting the future of the country wherein he -had spent so many years of his life in contentment, if not in peace. In -lieu of what he had expected, I had only the offer of the King of the -Belgians to make to him, to which were attached certain conditions, that -appeared to him to render the offer of no value. He could not guarantee -a revenue--possibly because he knew better than any one else that there -was neither government nor province, and that, therefore, revenue could -not be collected. It was then I proposed to him, solely on my own -responsibility, that he should take service with the British East -African Association, because the copy of his letter to Sir John Kirk -informed me that it approached nearer to his own proposition than the -other. As I could not guarantee the engagement without authority, and -could only promise that I would do my utmost to realise my ideas, I -could but extract a declaration of his preference that the second offer -was more congenial to him than retreat to Egypt, or service with the -Congo State. Yet, as we know, he could definitely accept neither, -inasmuch as he did not know whether his rebellious officers would -consent to depart from the province, even as far as the Victoria Nyanza. -As my mission to Emin was solely to convey ammunition to him, or to -assist him in any way desirable and convenient to him, I was as free to -carry offers to him from Italy, Germany, Russia, Portugal, or Greece as -I was to carry that from Belgium. But as Emin was disinclined to return -to Egypt, and declined to accept King Leopold's generous offer of -employment, and dared pledge himself to accept service with the English -company until he had ascertained whether any of his people were willing -to accompany him, he was compelled to return to his province to consult -the inclinations of his officers, in doing which he was deposed from his -authority and made a prisoner. When permitted to visit our camp by his -rebellious officers, he placed himself under our escort, and accompanied -us to the sea, with servants as we compelled to serve him during the -journey. - -Therefore, having accomplished our mission toward him faithfully, with -every consideration and respect while he acted as the Governor of an -important province, with every kindness and tender solicitude for -himself and family during a journey of 1,400 miles, until he was in the -arms of his countrymen, we have some reason for being more than -surprised that the accident at the banquet at Bagamoyo should have so -suddenly terminated our acquaintance without the smallest -acknowledgment. Three several times I am aware I offended Emin. The -first time was on April 5th, when, finding him utterly unable to -decide, or to suggest anything, or accept suggestion from me, my -patience, after fifty-two days' restraint, gave way. Even now the very -thought of it upsets me. If the Pasha had a whipping-boy, I fear the -poor fellow would have had a severe time of it. Secondly, my judgment in -the affair of Mohammed's wife was contrary to his wishes, but had he -been my brother, or benefactor, I could not have done otherwise than -render strict justice. Third was at Mtsora, when Emin came to apologise -for certain intemperate words he had used, and when I seized the -opportunity of giving him a little lecture upon the mode of conduct -becoming a Pasha and a gentleman. "I frankly accept your apology, -Pasha," I said, "but I do hope that from here to the coast you will -allow us to remember that you are still the Governor of the Equatorial -Province, and not a vain and spoiled child. We can but grieve to see you -exhibiting childish pettishness, when we cannot forget that you are he -for whom we were all ready to fling away our lives at a moment's notice. -The method of showing resentment for imaginary offences which we see in -vogue with you and Casati is new to us. We do not understand why every -little misunderstanding should be followed by suspension of intercourse. -We have been in the habit of expressing frankly our opinions, but never -above a minute nourishing resentment, and brooding over fancied wrongs. -If you could bear this in mind you would be convinced that this forced -seclusion in your tent cannot appear otherwise than absurd, and -infantile to us." - -"Ah, Mr. Stanley, I am sorry I ever came on with you, and, if you will -allow me, on reaching Mr. Mackay's, I will ask you to let me remain with -him," said he. - -"But why, Pasha?" I asked. "Tell me why, and what is it you wish. Has -any person offended you? I know of everything that transpires in this -camp, but I confess that I am ignorant of any offence being done towards -you intentionally by any person. Down to the smallest Zanzibari boy I -can only see a sincere desire to serve you. Now, Pasha, let me show you -in few words for the first time how strange your conduct has appeared to -us. When we volunteered to convey relief to you, you were a kind of hero -to us; you were Gordon's last lieutenant, who was in danger of being -overcome by the fate which seemed to overtake every person connected -with the Soudan, and we resolved to employ every faculty to extricate -you from what appeared to be the common doom. We did not ask what -country gave you birth, we did not inquire into your antecedents; you -were Emin, the heroic Governor of Equatoria to us. Felkin, and Junker, -and Allen, of the Anti-Slavery Society, had by their letters and -speeches created a keen sympathy in every breast for Emin, the last -lieutenant of Gordon. We were told that all you needed was ammunition, -and from the day when I left New York to take command of this -Expedition, I had only one thought, and that was to reach you before it -was too late. I wrote you from Zanzibar that we intended to take the -Congo route, and that we should march for Kavalli at the south-west end -of the Albert Lake, and I begged you to prepare the natives for our -coming, for you had two steamers, and life-boats, besides canoes. Well, -we reached Kavalli on the 14th December, 1887. You did not reach Kavalli -before March, 1888. That omission on your part cost us the life of a -gallant Englishman, and the lives of over a hundred of our brave and -faithful followers, and caused a delay of four months. We had to return -to Fort Bodo, and bring our boat to search for you. During twenty-six -days' stay with you, we were not certain of any one thing, except that -you would wait for the arrival of the Major and rear column. We hastened -back to hunt up the rear column to find the Major was dead, and the rear -column a wreck. Now all this might have been avoided if you had visited -Kavalli, and assisted in your own relief. When we returned to you in -January, 1889, you were deposed, a helpless prisoner, and in danger of -being taken to Khartoum; and yet, though you had written to me that you -and Casati and many Egyptians were resolved to depart if I would give -you a little time, after fifty-six days' patient waiting you were still -undecided what to do. My illness gave you an additional twenty-eight -days' delay, and I find you still hankering for something that I cannot -guess, and which you will not name. Up to this date we have lost Major -Barttelot, and 300 lives; we are here to lose our own lives if they are -required. What more can we do for you? Write out in plain words your -needs, and you shall then judge for yourself whether our professions are -mere empty words." - -From this time to the hour I bade him my farewell at the hospital on the -6th December nothing occurred to mar a pleasant intercourse. There was -one difficulty, however, under which I laboured, and that was to write -my letters to the Emin Relief Committee, without betraying our surprise -at the extraordinary vacillation which marked the Governor's conduct. It -would have been a more agreeable task to have maintained the illusions -under which we had set out from England, but it was impossible. What -transpired at Kavalli was visible to every officer in the Expedition, -and at some indiscreet moment the mask under which friendship may have -attempted to disguise the eccentricities of the Pasha would surely have -been brushed aside. It was, therefore, necessary that I should state the -truth as charitably as possible, so that whatever may have been deduced -by critics, the worst charge would have been no more than that his -apparent vacillation was due to excess of amiability. - -But the Pasha's conduct at Bagamoyo, from the moment he entered the -German Hospital, will not even permit me the privilege of exhibiting him -in such an amiable light. The ungrateful treatment which the poor boy -Sali received, the making of my letters common property among the German -officers, all of which were urging him to have regard for his own good -name and fair reputation, the strange ingratitude shown to Dr. Parke, -who ought not to have an enemy in the wide world, the sudden and -inexplicable cessation of intercourse with any member of our Expedition, -render it necessary that we should not close this book without reference -to these things. - -In Africa Emin Pasha expressed his fears that if he returned to Egypt he -would be unemployed. Within half-an-hour of my arrival in Cairo, I took -the liberty of urging upon the Khedive that Emin Pasha should be -assured, as early as possible, that he would be certain of employment. -The Khedive at once consented, and in thirty-six hours Emin replied, -"Thanks, my kind master." - -Four weeks later he cabled to the Khedive requiring that a credit for -L400 should be given to him at Zanzibar. Col. Euan-Smith, at Zanzibar, -was requested by the Government of Egypt to pay that amount to Emin, -whereupon he cabled back, "Since you cannot treat me better than that, I -send you my resignation." - -As he had offered his services to England, the British East African -Company were induced to listen to his overtures, and I was aware while -at Cairo that a very liberal engagement was open to his acceptance; but -suddenly everybody was shocked to hear that he had accepted service with -the Germans in East Africa, and naturally one of his first duties would -be to inform his new employers of the high estimate placed on his genius -for administration by the directors of the British East Africa Company. -I understand that he had agreed to serve Germany one month previous to -his offer of service to the British Company. It is clear, therefore, why -he was negotiating with the latter. - -As has been stated above, his desire to serve the Germans has not been a -surprise to me; but this reckless indifference to his own reputation, -and his disregard of the finer human feelings certainly are calculated -to diminish admiration. While most readers of this book would be -indifferent to his employment by his own Emperor, and would consider it -perfectly natural and right that he should show preference for his own -natal land and countrymen, it will not appear so natural to them that -the flag which he had stated at Kavalli he had served for thirty years, -should have been so disdainfully cast aside, or that the "kind master," -the Khedive of Egypt, who had given L14,000 towards his rescue, should -have been parted with so unceremoniously; or that Sir William Mackinnon -and his English friends, who had subscribed L16,000 for sending to him -the assistance he had requested, should have been subjected to such a -sudden chilling of their kindly sympathies. Nor will it appear quite -natural to us that he should so soon forget his "dear people" for whom -he pleaded so nobly in May, 1888, and February and March, 1889, as to -leave them in Cairo for four months without a word. Dr. Vita Hassan, the -apothecary, his most devoted follower, received a letter from him a few -days before I left Cairo, which announced to him that he and the others -must look out for themselves, that as he had severed his connection with -Egypt he could not be troubled any more with them. Poor Shukri Agha, -faithful to the last, with tears in his eyes came to me to ask what it -all meant? What had he done to be treated with such neglect? With eight -years' arrears of pay due to them, the Pasha's followers remain -wondering why their late chief has so utterly cast them away. - -We were the recipients at Zanzibar of so much courtesy and hospitality -that pages might be filled with the mere mention of them. To Major -Wissmann, I am vastly indebted for large and unstinted hospitality, and -I feel honoured with the acquaintance of this noble and brave German -centurion. To the gallant Captains Foss and Hirschberg we owe great -gratitude for their unremitting kindness. To Consul-General Col. -Euan-Smith and his charming wife, to whom I am indebted for courtesies -past counting, and a hospitality as ungrudging as it was princely and -thoroughly disinterested, besides favours and honours without number, I -am too poor in aught to do more than make this simple record of a -goodness which cannot be recompensed. And indeed there was not a German, -or English, or Italian, or Indian resident at Zanzibar who did not show -to myself and companions in some form or another, either by substantial -dinners and choice wines their--what was called--appreciation of our -services in behalf of Emin Pasha, Captain Casati, and their followers. - -The Agent of the East African Company, in company with Lieut. Stairs, -having completed their labours, of calculating the sums due to the -survivors of the Relief Expedition, and having paid them accordingly, a -purse of 10,000 rupees was subscribed thus: 3000 rupees from the Khedive -of Egypt; 3000 rupees from the Emin Relief Fund; 3000 rupees from myself -personally; 1000 rupees from the Seyyid Khalifa of Zanzibar, which -enabled the payees to deliver from 40 to 60 rupees extra to each -survivor according to desert. General Lloyd Mathews gave them also a -grand banquet, and in the name of the kind-hearted Sultan in various -ways showed how merit should be rewarded. An extra sum of 10,000 rupees -set apart from the Relief Fund is to be distributed also among the -widows and orphans of those who perished in the Yambuya Camp, and with -the Advance Column. [Illustration: THE FAITHFULS AT ZANZIBAR.] - -Among my visitors at Zanzibar was a Mohammedan East Indian, named Jaffar -Tarya, who is a wealthy Bombay merchant, and acts as agent for many Arab -and Zanzibari caravan owners in Africa. Among others he acts as agent -for Hamed bin Mohammed, _alias_ Tippu-Tib. He informed me that he held -the sum of L10,600 in gold, which was paid to him for and in behalf of -Tippu-Tib by the Government of the Congo Free State for ivory purchased -by Lieut. Becker from Tippu-Tib in its name. Jaffar Tarya had thus -unwittingly put the means in my hands to enable me to bring Tippu-Tib -some day before the Consular Court at Zanzibar to be judged for alleged -offences committed against British subjects--the gentlemen of the Emin -Relief Committee--and to refund certain expenses which had been incurred -by the declarations he had made before Acting Consul-General Holmwood, -that he would assist the Emin Pasha Relief Expedition with carriers. -Thus, in consideration of his signed agreement that he would furnish -the Expedition with 600 carriers, he had been granted free passage and -board for himself and ninety-six of his followers from Zanzibar to -Banana Point, River Congo=L1940, and from Banana Point to Stanley -Falls=L1940. At Yambuya he had received forty-seven bales of cloth, -about fifty cases of gunpowder, as many cases of fixed ammunition, -Remington rifles, elephant guns, revolvers, and L128 worth of stores for -his sub-chief, Muini Sumai, on the promise that he would supply carriers -to escort Major Barttelot until the Major would either meet me or Emin -Pasha, which he did not do further than for about ninety miles, and -therefore caused us a delay of nearly a year, and a further expense of -nearly twelve months' pay extra to about 250 Zanzibaris. The bill of -claims that we could legitimately present amounted in the aggregate to -L10,000. Whereupon I pleaded for an injunction that such moneys should -not depart from the hands of the British subject Jaffar Tarya until an -English court of justice should decide whether the Emin Relief Committee -was not entitled in equity to have these expenses and moneys refunded. -After hearing the evidence the Consular Judge granted the injunction. -There is not a doubt, then, that, if strict justice be dealt to this -arch offender, the Emin Relief Committee may find itself in possession -of funds sufficient to pay each Zanzibari survivor a bonus of 300 -rupees, and each of our officers the sum of L1000 cash, a consummation -devoutly to be wished. - -[Sidenote: 1890. - -Jan. 16. - -Cairo.] - -After arriving at Cairo on the 16th of January, 1890, and delivering the -260 refugees to the Egyptian authorities, I sought a retired house -wherein I might proceed to write this record of three years' experiences -"In Darkest Africa, and the Story of our Quest, Rescue, and Retreat of -Emin, the Governor of Equatoria." I discovered such a house in the Villa -Victoria, and on January 25th I seized my pen to do a day's work. But I -knew not how to begin. Like Elihu, my memory was full of matter, and I -desired to write that I might be refreshed; but there was no vent. My -right hand had forgotten its cunning, and the art of composition was -lost by long disuse. Wherefore, putting firm restraint against the -crowds of reminiscences that clamoured for issue, I let slip one after -another with painful deliberation into the light, and thus, while one -day my pen would fairly race over the paper at the rate of nine folios -an hour, at other times it could scarcely frame 100 words. But finally, -after fifty days' close labour, in obedience to an irresistible impulse -I have succeeded in reaching this page 903 of foolscap manuscript, -besides writing 400 letters and about 100 telegrams, and am compelled -from over-weariness to beg the reader's permission to conclude. - -Some scenes of the wonderful land of Inner Africa, through which we have -travelled together, must for ever cling to our memories. Wherever we go -some thought of some one of the many scenes in that great forest will -intrude itself into the mind. The eternal woods will stand in their -far-away loneliness for ever. As in the past, so they will flourish and -fall for countless ages in the future, in dumb and still multitudes, -shadowy as ghosts in the twilight, yet silently creeping upward and -higher into the air and sunshine. In fancy we shall often hear the -thunder crashing and rushing in rolling echoes through the silence and -the darkness; we shall see the leaden mists of the morning, and in the -sunshine the lustre of bedewed verdure and the sheen of wet foliage, and -inhale the fragrance of flowers. - -And now and then--oh, the misery of it!--athwart the memory will glide -spectres of men cowering in the rainy gloom, shivering with cold, gaunt -and sad-eyed through hunger, despairing in the midst of the unknown; we -shall hear the moaning of dying men, see the stark forms of the dead, -and shrink again with the hopelessness of our state. Then like gleams of -fair morning will rise to view the prospects of the grass-land, the -vistas of green bossy hills, the swirling swathes of young grass -waltzing merrily with the gale, the flowing lines of boscage darkening -the hollows, the receding view of uplifting and subsiding land waves -rolling to the distance where the mountains loom in faint image through -the undefined blue. And often thought will wing itself lighter than a -swift, and soar in aerial heights over sere plain, blue water, vivid -green land and silver lake, and sail along the lengthy line of colossal -mountain shoulders turned towards the Semliki, and around the -congregation of white heads seated in glory far above the Afric world, -and listen to the dropping waters as they tumble down along the winding -grooves of Ruwenzori in sheaves of silver arrows, and speed through the -impending rain-clouds, and the floating globes of white mist over -unexplored abysses, through the eternal haze of Usongora, and up with a -joyous leap into the cool atmosphere over Ankori and Karagwe, and -straight away over 300 leagues of pastoral plains, and thin thorn -forest, back again to marvel at the delightful azure of the Indian -Ocean. - -Good-night, Pasha, and you, Captain Casati! You will know better when -you have read these pages, what the saving of you cost in human life and -suffering. I have nothing to regret. What I have given that I have given -freely and with utmost good will; and so say we all. - -Good-night, Gentlemen of the Relief Committee! Three years are past -since your benevolence commissioned us to relieve the distressed and -rescue the weak. 260 all told have been returned to their homes; about -150 more are in safety. - -Good night, oh! my Companions! May honours such as you deserve be -showered upon you. To the warm hearts of your countrymen I consign you. -Should one doubt be thrown upon your manhood, or upon your loyalty or -honour, within these pages, the record of your faithfulness during a -period which I doubt will ever be excelled for its gloom and -hopelessness, will be found to show with what noble fortitude you bore -all. Good-night, Stairs, Jephson, Nelson, Parke, and you, Bonny, a long -good-night to you all! - - You who never turned your backs, - But marched breast forward, - Never doubted clouds would break, - Never dreamed, though right were worsted, - Wrong would triumph. - Held we fall to rise, are baffled to - Fight better, - Sleep to wake. - - No, at noonday, in the bustle of - Man's work-time, - Greet the Unseen with a cheer! - Bid them forward, breast and bark, as - Either should be. - "Strive and thrive!" cry, "speed, fight - On, for ever, - There as here." - -THE THANKS BE TO GOD FOR EVER AND EVER. AMEN. - - - - -APPENDICES. - - -APPENDIX A. - -CONGRATULATIONS BY CABLE - -RECEIVED AT ZANZIBAR. - - -WINDSOR, 10 _December_, 1889. - -STANLEY, _Zanzibar_. My thoughts are often with you and your brave -followers, whose dangers and hardships are now at an end. Once more I -heartily congratulate all, including the survivors of the gallant -Zanzibaris who displayed such devotion and fortitude during your -marvellous Expedition. Trust Emin progresses favourably. - -V. R. I. - - * * * * * - -BERLIN, 4 _December_, 1889. - -STANLEY, _Zanzibar_. Thanks to your tenacity of purpose and indomitable -courage, you have now, after having repeatedly crossed the Dark -Continent, achieved a new long journey full of fearful dangers and -almost unbearable hardship; that you have overcome it all, and that your -way home led you through territories placed under my flag, gives me -great satisfaction, and I welcome you heartily on your return to -civilization and safety. - -WILHELM IMPERATOR REX. -GRAF BISMARCK. - - * * * * * - -BRUSSELS, 23 _November_, 1889. - -STANLEY, _Zanzibar_. Many greetings and warmest congratulations on your -marvellous and heroic expedition. - -LEOPOLD. - - * * * * * - -WASHINGTON, 15 _December_, 1889. - -STANLEY, _Zanzibar_. I am directed by the President of the United States -to tender his congratulations to you upon the success which has attended -your long tour of discovery through Africa, and upon the advantages -which may accrue therefrom to the civilized world. - -BLAINE. - - * * * * * - -CAIRE, 7 _Decembre_, 1889. - -MONSIEUR STANLEY, ESQ., _Zanzibar_. Je vous adresse mes sinceres et -cordiales felicitations sur votre arrivee a Zanzibar apres toutes les -peripeties de votre remarquable Expedition pour aller au secours d'Emin -Pasha et de ses braves compagnons. Je vous ai envoye un de mes bateaux, -le Mansourah, pour vous ramener et j'attends avec impatience le plaisir -de vous recevoir tous. - -MEHEMET THEWFIK, _Khedive of Egypt_. - - * * * * * - -CAIRO ABDIN, 12 _December_, 1889. - -STANLEY, _Zanzibar_. You are authorised to pay 200 pounds as a -gratification to your Zanzibar men in recognition of their services. The -British Consul-General has been asked to pay you the amount on behalf of -the Egyptian Government. - -MEHEMET THEWFIK, _Khedive_. - - * * * * * - -LONDON, 12 _December_, 1889. - -Stanley, Zanzibar. Corporation London invite you to reception Guildhall. - -BRAND, _Guildhall_. - - * * * * * - -BRUXELLES, 11 _Decembre_, 1889. - -STANLEY, _Zanzibar_. Societe Geographie Bruxelles felicite invite. - - * * * * * - -MELBOURNE, 11 _December_, 1889. - -STANLEY, _Zanzibar_. Geographic Society, Victoria, congratulate you. -Convey Emin Pasha deep sympathy. - -MACDONALD, _Secretary_. - - * * * * * - -BRUXELLES, 8 _Decembre_, 1889. - -MONSIEUR STANLEY, _Zanzibar_. La Conference de Bruxelles justement emue -des souffrances et des perils que vous avez braves avec vos compagnons -et admirant l'energie que vous avez deployee dans l'accomplissement -d'une noble mission, vous adresse ses sinceres felicitations; elle -connait et apprecie les nouveaux et grands services que vous avez rendus -a la science et a l'humanite; elle vous prie d'exprimer ses sympathies a -Emin Pasha, qui fidele au devoir a si longtemps garde un poste -dangereux, a de lui faire part des voeux qu'elle forme pour son complet -retablissement au nom de la Conference. - -LE PRESIDENT BARON LAMBERMONT. - - * * * * * - -LONDON, 11 _December_, 1889. - -STANLEY, _Zanzibar_. Sir Julian Goldsmid, Sir Edwin Arnold, Alfred -Rothschild, Earl Wharncliffe, Prince Gluca, Sir Arthur Sullivan, Beatty -Kingston, Charles Wyndham, Colonel FitzGeorge, Lord Ronald Gower, Lord -Ernest Hamilton, Sir James Linton, Count Lutzow, Sir Morell Mackenzie, -General Sir Roger Palmer, D'Oyly Carte, Fred Cowen, Anderson, Critchett, -Sutherland Edwards, John Pettie, Robson, Rowe, Frank Lockwood, Farjeon, -Professor Herkomer, constituting Committee of Arts and Letters Club, -heartily congratulate you on brilliant success, safe return -civilization, invite you to banquet your honour. - - * * * * * - -LONDON, 2 _December_, 1889. - -STANLEY, _Zanzibar_. Council Royal Geographical Society congratulate you -heartily on success of journey and great discoveries. - -GRANT DUFF, _President_. - - * * * * * - -EDINBURGH, 30 _November_, 1889. - -STANLEY, _Zanzibar_. Hearty congratulations thanks. - -SCOTTISH GEOGRAPHIC. - - * * * * * - -MANCHESTER, 5 _December_, 1889. - -STANLEY, _Zanzibar_. Manchester Geographical Society sends cordial -greeting to yourself and brave companions, trusting your health may be -spared. - -GREENWOOD, STEINTHAL AND SOWERBUTTS. - - * * * * * - -BERLIN, 5 _December_, 1889. - -STANLEY, EMIN, _Zanzibar_. Geographical Society sends hearty welcome. - - * * * * * - -LONDON, 4 _December_, 1889. - -STANLEY, _Zanzibar_. I must be first to offer you my warmest hearty -congratulations on the completion of your herculean task. Inform me as -soon as possible of your movements and telegraph general state of health -of your staff. I congratulate them upon their success. - -(SIR WILLIAM) MACKINNON (Bart.). - - * * * * * - -LONDON, 25 _November_, 1889. - -STANLEY, _Zanzibar_. My wife and I thankfully rejoice to learn of your -safety and success, and anxiously await further information. Accept our -most hearty congratulations. We are longing to see you. Offer our -kindest sympathy to Emin Pacha and all your companions. All the -Company's officers have been instructed to do everything they can to -meet your wishes. - -(SIR WILLIAM) MACKINNON (Bart.). - - * * * * * - - _From_ the Emin Pasha Relief Committee and the Directors of the - Imperial British East African Company _to_ H. M. STANLEY, Esq., and - EMIN PASHA-- - -21 _November_, 1889. - -Most cordial hearty congratulations. - - * * * * * - -ADEN, 24 _November_, 1889. - -STANLEY, _Zanzibar_. Myself and George Mackenzie hope to organise proper -reception for you, which I consider both fitting and necessary. - -Col. EUAN-SMITH. - - * * * * * - -ADEN, 24 _November_, 1889. - -Heartiest welcome and sincerest congratulations on your safe return. I -hope to come and meet you at Bagamoyo if you do not reach there before -5th December. I only reach Zanzibar 2nd from England. Of course you will -stay with us on arrival. My wife joins me in heartiest good wishes. - -GEORGE S. MACKENZIE. - - * * * * * - -STANLEY. Heartiest congratulations yourself and Emin. Am bearer of -several letters from friends. It is absolutely necessary must remain -Mombasa four days. Must proceed with all haste, greet you as special -representative Relief Committee. - -G. S. MACKENZIE, _Aden_. - - * * * * * - -LONDON, 25 _December_, 1889. - -STANLEY, _Zanzibar_. Balinakill sends you united kindest heartiest good -wishes for a merry Christmas and a happy New Year. They rejoice that at -this season you are enjoying your well-earned repose after your -hardships and dangers. - -MACKINNON. - - * * * * * - -EMBEKELWENI, 3 _December_, 1889. - -STANLEY, _Zanzibar_. Safe again, thank God! - -Col. DE WINTON, _Swazieland_. - - * * * * * - -LONDON, 3 _December_. - -STANLEY, _Zanzibar_. Thousand welcomes! Your old friend, - -(J. R.) ROBINSON, _Daily News_. - - * * * * * - -LONDON, 14 _December_, 1889. - -STANLEY, _Zanzibar_. The Fishmongers Company send their congratulations -and wish to present Mr. H. M. Stanley with their Honorary Freedom. If -Mr. Stanley is willing to accept this, they request him to give them the -pleasure of his company at dinner during the month of February, or at -any other time he may find it more convenient. - - * * * * * - -BRUSSELS, 7 _December_, 1889. - -STANLEY, _Zanzibar_. The Burgomaster of Brussels sends in the name of -the Administration Communale his warmest felicitations to Henry Stanley -for the happy issue of his admirable enterprise, and hopes to welcome -him at the Town Hall. - -BULS. - - * * * * * - -LONDON, 22 _December_, 1889. - -STANLEY, _Zanzibar_. Applauds hero; tenders welcoming dinner. - -SAVAGE CLUB. - - * * * * * - -LONDON, 13 _December_, 1889. - -STANLEY, _Zanzibar_. George Club felicitate. - - * * * * * - -LONDON, 6 _December_, 1889. - -STANLEY, _Zanzibar_. The Turners Company gave a dinner to the Lord Mayor -at which many old friends were present. After receiving a generous -telegram from His Majesty King Leopold, an honorary Turner, your health -was drunk with stirring enthusiasm. The Company send you hearty -congratulations on your splendid achievement and cordially welcome you -home. - -BURDETT COUTTS, _Chairman_. - - * * * * * - -LONDON, 19 _December_, 1889. - -STANLEY, _Zanzibar_. Best Christmas wishes. Congratulations from all. - -LAWSON, _Daily Telegraph_. - - * * * * * - -LONDON, 18 _December_, 1889. - -STANLEY, _Zanzibar_. Americans, London, applaud heroic achievement in -cause of humanity, science, and invite you dinner. Minister Lincoln -presides, name probable date. - -WELLCOME, _Snowhill_. - - * * * * * - -PARIS, 6 _December_, 1889. - -STANLEY, _Zanzibar_. Let me first congratulate you upon your great -success, let me secondly thank you for letter, and your kindly treatment -of my correspondent. Hoping to see you soon, I am your great admirer, - -JAMES GORDON BENNETT, _New York Herald_. - - * * * * * - -EDINBURGH, 29 _November_, 1889. - -STANLEY, _Zanzibar_. Thousand welcomes, congratulations on safety and -brilliant achievement. - -BRUCE (Livingstone's son-in-law). - - * * * * * - -ZANZIBAR, 7 _December_, 1889. - -STANLEY, _Zanzibar_. Pierce says, several congratulations Society of -Arts. Elliot says, going to Cairo to-morrow, hopes to entertain you -there on New Year's day. Everybody says you are a phenomenally great -man; to myself your success truly wonderful, beats romance. Sorry about -Emin, hope your able doctor will pull him through, due to you he should -be landed safe at home. - - From MANAGING DIRECTOR, _Eastern Telegraph Company_. - - * * * * * - -4 _December_, 1889. - -STANLEY, _Zanzibar_. You will have many congratulations on the -successful termination of your most heroic work; but none can be more -sincere and earnest than those of your friend. - -(Sir) JOHN PENDER. - - * * * * * - -30 _November_, 1889. - -STANLEY, _Zanzibar_. Affectionate congratulations from your oldest -London friend on happy return and splendid achievements transcending all -that has gone before. Your name on every tongue on Sunday 22 December; -Robinson, Sala, Irving, Toole, Yates, Lawson, Wingfield, my guests at -Reform Club, when your health and glorious career was only toast of -evening. - -(J. C.) PARKINSON. - -VIENNA, 28 _November_, 1889. - -STANLEY, _Zanzibar_. Again welcome back from still another perilous -African Expedition. - -DOUGLAS GIBBS. - - * * * * * - -LEIPZIG, 5 _December_, 1889. - -STANLEY, _Zanzibar_. Heartiest congratulations. - -BROCKHAUS. - - * * * * * - -BRUSSELS, 4 _December_, 1889. - -STANLEY, _Zanzibar_. Warm congratulations. - -INDEPENDENCE BELGE AND GERALD HARRY. - - * * * * * - -NEW YORK, 5 _December_, 1889. - -STANLEY, _Zanzibar_. H. M. Stanley Africanus. - -(J. B.) POND. - - * * * * * - -LONDON, 5 _December_, 1889. - -STANLEY, _Zanzibar_. Sincerest congratulations. - -GLAVE, WARD. - - * * * * * - -LONDON, 4 _December_, 1889. - -STANLEY, _Zanzibar_. Bravo! welcome home. - -SHELDON, MAY, WELCOME. - - * * * * * - -NEW YORK, 6 _December_, 1889. - -STANLEY, _Zanzibar. Century Magazine_ sends congratulations. - -&c. &c. &c. &c. &c. &c. - - * * * * * - - (BY LETTER.) - -PARIS, _le_ 8 _Decembre_, 1889. - -MONSIEUR ET CHER COLLEGUE,--La Societe de Geographie de Paris nous -charge de vous feliciter de votre retour. Elle a pris le plus vif -interet aux perilleux voyages que vous venez d'accomplir et tout -particulierement aux decouvertes geographiques qui auront ete le -resultat. - -La Societe espere que vous voudrez bien la mettre a meme d'en apprecier -toute l'importance. - -Veuillez agreer, Monsieur et cher Collegue, avec nos felicitations -personnelles l'expression de nos sentiments les plus distingues. - -_Le Secretaire general_, -C. MAUNOIR. - - _Le President de la Commission Centrale, Membre de l'Institut_, - -J. Milne-Edwards. - - _Le President de la Societe, Membre de l'Institut_, - -COMTE DE LESSEPS. - - A. Monsieur Henry M. Stanley, Membre Correspondant de la - Societe de Geographie de Paris. - - * * * * * - -[Illustration: THE CASKET CONTAINING THE HONORARY FREEDOM OF THE CITY OF -LONDON, PRESENTED TO THE AUTHOR BEFORE SETTING OUT FOR THE RESCUE OF -EMIN, JAN. 1887.] - - GOLD CASKET PRESENTED TO MR. HENRY MORTON STANLEY WITH THE HONORARY - FREEDOM OF THE CITY. - -[Illustration: A CASKET, THE GIFT OF KING LEOPOLD II., KING OF THE -BELGIANS, CONTAINING THE STAR OF AFRICA, AND THE STAR OF SERVICE.] - -The design of the casket is Arabesque, and it stands upon a base of -Algerine onyx, surmounted by a plinth of ebony, the corners of which -project and are rounded. On each of these, at the angle of the casket, -stands an ostrich carved in ivory; behind each bird and curving over it -projects an elephant's tusk, which is looped to three spears placed in -the panelled angle of the casket, the pillars of which are of -crocidolite, resting in basal sockets of gold, and surmounted by -capitals of the same metal. The panels of the casket and also the roof -are of ivory richly overlaid with ornamental work in fine gold of -various colours. The back panel bears the City arms emblazoned in the -proper heraldic colours. Of the end panels, one bears the tricoloured -monogram "H.M.S." surrounded by a wreath-emblem of victory, and the -other that of the Lord Mayor of London. The front panel, which is also -the door of the casket, bears a miniature map of Africa surmounting the -tablet bearing the inscription: "Presented to Henry Morton Stanley with -the freedom of the City." Above both the front and back panels on the -roof are the standards of America and Great Britain, and, surmounting -the whole, on an oval platform is an allegorical figure of the Congo -Free State, seated by the source of the river from which it derives its -name, and holding the horn of plenty, which is overflowing with native -products. The design was selected from among a large number submitted by -the leading London goldsmiths, and reflects great credit upon the taste -and workmanship of the designers and makers, Messrs. George Edward & -Son, Glasgow, and Poultry, London. - - - - -APPENDIX B. - -NOTES. - - -The Wambutti knew a donkey and called it "atti." They say that they -sometimes catch them in pits. What they can find to eat is a wonder. -They eat leaves. - -Bakiokwa language of Indekaru. - -Wambutti call their language Ku-mbutti, or that of Bakwa, pronounced -_Bakkvwa_. I fancy Schweinfurth may have been unable to detect the -subtle sound of v-w and called his dwarfs Akka. - -The Ku-mbutti or Bakkwa, the Bakiokwa or Bukumu, and the Babira, between -Kinnena and Kabonge on the Congo, we perceive speak three dialects -closely resembling one another, especially the first and last are -remarkably similar, yet there is a distance of forest between them of -several hundred miles, and the Lindi, Lenda and Ituri rivers separate -them. - -The Bavira and Babusesse, separated only by the Ituri, both countries -being grass land, speak a dialect remarkably alike. Formerly it was one -language; but in two generations the Baviras have become corrupted by -using daily the Rukobe, or that of the Wahuma. They migrated from the -banks of the Ituri, crossed the Ruki, and dwelt among the Wahuma, who -are an exclusive and proud people. - -The Rukobe or Wahuma have no single word for thanks, but yo -simire-kurungi literally means, "I take it to be good of you," or "I -accept it kindly." - -Wahuma, when children, call their father "baba," equal to our papa; when -adults, "tata." - -Wahuma, when children, call their mother "mama," equal to our mamma; -when adults, "man." - -Wahuma, on the other side of the lake, are called Wachwezi. - -The number three is the most universally similar. Take from Zanzibar on -to the East Coast to Banana on to the West Coast there is but little -variation, and through the forest region to Lake Albert, water is almost -pretty near alike, especially on the Western half, varying from riba, -liba, libu, libo, ibo, rubu. - - Chicken = kuku, kokko, ngokko, bukoko.} - Spear = ikunga, kunga. } These words seem - Goat = me-me. } most popular across - Ten = kumi. } Africa. - Dog = mbwa, mbua. } - -One would imagine a confusion of languages, as for instance:-- - - Hottentot Babusesse Kumbutti Mandingo. - Eye = mu Head = mu Head = mo Man = mo - - Wahuma Galla - Milk = mata Head = matta - - Danakil Arabic. - Cow = la la = no - - Tuarik. Kikongo - Hair = zau Elephant = nzau - - Kiyanzi. Bakiokwa. - Friend = koi Eye = koi - - Kisawahili. East Manyuema. - Bana or Bwana = Master Bana = four - - Kisawahili. Bavira - Kiboko = Hippo Head, hand, finger = Kiboko - - Somali. } is in Swahili a vile slang word; and country - Boro, mountain } in Niam Niam. - -Semme in Hurrur is sky; in Soudanese Arabic it means good. - -Kuba in Bavira is sky; is dog in Adaiel, big in Swahili. - -Barra in Adaiel is woman; is continent in Swahili. - -Ina in Kiyanzi is four; in Yoruba means fire. - -Afi in Babira means road; in Ku-mbutti means river. - -A-e in Somali means dog, but means mother in Hurrur; so that son of a -female dog in Somali, would in Hurrur be a mother's son. - -Ariho in Wahuma, or, are you here, is sky in Niam Niam. - -Happa, here, in Swahili, becomes yes in Monbuttu. - -The ibuka of the forest, approaches the ebbugu of Monbuttu (Banana). - -The Niam Niam have no words for numerals higher than five; six becomes -the second one battisa; seven the second two battiuwi, &c., &c. - -The Wabarukuru likewise. - -Posyo, meat in Niam Niam, approaches the Posho, rations, Swahili, and -podzio, Russian for hurry. - -Rubu, rain, of the Adaiel is a common name for perhaps a score of -African rivers. Lufu, Ruvu, Rufu. The Danakil word for rain, robe, is as -nearly related to libo (water). Monbutti, ruba of Mbarukukaru; ibo of -the Babira; libu Babusesse. - -The ba (father) of the Niam Niam becomes mother in Mandingo. - -While De, woman of the Niam Niam, is the same as the Jalif to the W.N.W. -for far, but de is four in Dinka. - - -APPENDIX B. - -COMPARATIVE TABLE OF FOREST AND GRASSLAND LANGUAGES. - - - English. |Ku-mbutti or |Bakiokwa or |Pigmy Language | - | Bakwa. | Bakumu. |Near Indekaru, = | - | Forest. | Forest. | Mbarukukaru. | - | | | Forest. | - ---------------------------------------------------------- - One. | Kadi. | do. | Ujju. - Two. | Ibari. | do. | Ibari. - Three. | Saro. | do. | ikaro. - Four. | Zinna. | do. | ikwanganya. - Five. | itano. | .. | bumuti. - Six. | mutuba. | do. | ijju. - Seven. | Kitanai. | do. | bumutti-na-ibali. - Eight. | Kibbe. | .. | bumutti-na-iharo. - Nine. | ellalo. | do. | bumutti-na-ikwanganya. - Ten. | mukko. | .. | mabo. - Twenty. | mukko ibali.| do. | mabo ibari. - Thirty. | mukko saro. | do. | &c. - Forty. | .. | .. | &c. - Fifty. | .. | .. | &c. - Sixty. | .. | .. | &c. - Seventy. | .. | .. | &c. - Eighty. | .. | .. | &c. - Ninety. | .. | .. | &c. - Hundred. | .. | .. | &c. - Man. | moku. | mogo. | mabo-mabo. - Woman. | kali. | kali. | muttu. - Cow. | Banzari. | ikuma. | nkali. - | | | - Dog. | ibu. | ibu. | mbua. - Donkey. | atti. | makabo. | .. - Goat. | samanga. | meme-apabay.| me-me. - Foot. | itindi. | itindi. | maguru. - Finger. | Bukanzigu. | kerro. | iheu. - Head. | mo. | mabongo. | moru. - Stool. | mbata. | mbata. | pumburu. - Canoe. | kuku. | kungi. | bwato. - Tree. | mi. | buo. | mpaho. - House. | Imlu. | kurunbo. | bangwari. - Arrow. | mukwari. | appi. | bahura. - Knife. | ngwu. | tambi. | mbako. - Spear. | Ikunga. | murupa. | ikunga. - Chicken. | indumbi. | kokko. | Kokko. - River. | afi. | afi. | Faruba or Ruba. - Water. | libo. | akko. | Ruba. - Fire. | mosa. | musa. | ritta. - Tobacco. | .. | .. | .. - Sun. | Kupa. | mani. | Hehwahi. - Moon. | Sungi. | burugwurru. | Timba. - Stars. | Bibi. | Passi. | Antongera. - Sky. | Iku. | Iku. | ligaliki. - Rain. | mbua. | mbu. | maneri. - Elephant.| mbungu | uku. | mbungu. - Leopard. | mapiranga. | mapilougo. | Biukabui. - Hyena. | mdondate. | .. | kio. - Fish. | nsu-mbungi. | mbungi. | Bahi. - Meat. | nimbu. | kupa. | ngai. - Bird. | ndiya. | mbabu. | banori. - Country. | Imbanda. | .. | .. - - Babira. |Balegga, - Near |Near Lake - Kinenna. | Albert. - Forest. | - ------------+-------------- - moti. | anderre. - Ibari. | andrekwa. - isaro. | undichikwa. - .. | goruchi. - itano. | andekaro. - mutuba. | zabandu. - .. | karubaro. - .. | kaibandu. - .. | bangewada-una. - mukko. | Boga or zadichi. - .. | makibo za. - .. | .. - .. | .. - .. | .. - .. | .. - .. | .. - .. | .. - .. | .. - .. | .. - mkwa. | mbissa. - .. | .. - inki. | adthe. - mbo. | atche. - .. | .. - me-me. | ndiri. - itindi. | jokoloro. - njaga. | nethagwa. - mo. | nejjo. - mbuta. | .. - .. | achu. - mi. | achugwaro. - indu. | adza. - nsoh. | mburr. - mbago.[37] | adyo. - ikunga. | alle. - kokko. | 'n-o. - ibo. | adda. - ibo. | addchissi. - nsa. | kazi. - .. | .. - mani. | ajje. - Sungi. | apiro. - barerengwa.| bibiro. - kupa. | abiro. - mbua. | ajesi. - mbungu. | addy apesiabbe. - mabianga. | ngoro. - .. | nyiuhu. - Su. | abbe. - abore. | aza. - mbu. | are. - .. | ango. - - - ----------------------------------------------- - RUKOBE OR | | | - WAHUMA. | BAVIRA. | BABUSESSE |==> - GRASSLAND. | GRASSLAND. | GRASSLAND. | - ---------------|---------------|--------------| - Kimu. | buigiri. | ngilini. | - Kabili. | bala. | ball. | - asato. | isaro. | isaro. | - Kane. | ine. | aini. | - Katano. | bitano. | five atano. | - mitkaga. | madya. | kiboko-bari. | - musansa. | lalodu. | .. | - mnani. | lalo. | .. | - nuvenda. | sobya. | .. | - ikumi. | kumi. | ten-kumi. | - ikumu nakimu. | .. | kumi-bali. | - " nabili. | .. | .. | - " navato. | .. | .. | - " navine. | .. | .. | - " navitano.| .. | .. | - namukaga. | .. | .. | - na musansu. | .. | .. | - na minami. | .. | .. | - na mvenda. | .. | .. | - igana. | igana bingiri.| .. | - muntu. | augirini. | mbu. | - mkazi. | mkali. | mkali. | - | | | - mbwa. | nmbwa. | ba-umbwa. | - .. | .. | .. | - mbusi. | me-me. | me-me. | - kigere. | bata. | subugwata. | - mkumo. | kiboko. | buki kiboko. | - kiganza. | kiboko. | mu. | - ketebe. | mbata. | mbata. | - uwato. | bwato. | zabo. | - viti. | miri. | apobau. | - enju. | ndabo. | ndabo. | - engowe. | mara. | mara. | - muyo. | mbako. | mbago. | - ichumu. | kunga. | kunga. | - ngoko. | bukoko. | bukokuki. | - mgera. | ntongoro. | purupuru. | - mije-zi. | libo. | libu. | - muro. | musa. | musa. | - .. | .. | imbazi. | - usana. | mwani. | mwani. | - ukwezi. | Sungi. | Sungi. | - nyezi. | tanga-tanga. | nzoga. | - iguru. | Kuba. | uguru. | - njiro. | mbura. | mbula. | - njoju. | mbungu. | mbongu. | - engwe. | ungwi. | ungwi. | - mpissi. | mpiti. | usu. | - enchu. | bausu. | nyama. | - nyama. | nyama. | .. | - nyonyi. | mburu. | mburu. | - ensi. | nkungu. | para. .. | - ----------------------------------------------- - - ----------------------------------------------- - | | - ==> | | - DINKA. | MONBUTTU. | NIAM NIAM. - ---------------|-----------------|------------- - Tog. | Ona. | Sa. - Rog. | Orwi. | uwi. - ndiya. | Otta. | Biata. - De. | Oswa. | Biama. - duman. | Zerna. | Biswi. - ndoro. | Tengwi Kanna. | Batissa. - Bet. | Tororwi. | Batiwwi. - Deyarkuman. | Gwanda. | Batti-biata. - Hityaro. | Tengirigi Kanna.| Batti-biama. - .. | Tekkewe. | Bauwe. - .. | .. | Bolologowi. - .. | .. | .. - .. | .. | .. - .. | .. | .. - .. | .. | .. - .. | .. | .. - .. | .. | .. - .. | .. | .. - .. | .. | .. - .. | naberu. | Borro. - kyyakot. | nandro. | De. - aiinir. | Eyti. | .. - | (imported name).| - edju. | nessi. | Ango. - .. | .. | .. - etto. | name-me. | Vusende. - edjok. | nekonso. | Gwendwe. - ityin. | nette. | uribbe. - errano. | nedru. | li. - etotch. | nebara. | mbata. - ichorya. | nekoko. | kurumba. - ethim. | nekirri. | unguwa. - ichalotu. | nejji. | dima. - .. | nembangu. | Gonza. - ewelu. | nsape. | Sappe. - ijultar. | norru. | bassa. - ejjid. | nale. | kondo. - .. | nedda. | di. - aypu. | eggu. | imme. - icholmatch. | nakagu. | we. - .. | .. | .. - Echolokolo. | Neggu. | Uru. - echolpe. | Naugwe. | diwi. - gulpyatuil. | Etturu. | - echolnyalit. | Norro. | ariho. - eddun. | Nekuma. | mai. - Hakkon. | Nokko. | mbana. - ekkor. | Nokondo. | moma. - etchoretch. | | - etchorin. | Neugere. | tiya. - .. | Neri. | posyo. - ter (Arabic). | Nari. | zelle. - .. | Nebba. | Boro. - ----------------------------------------------- - - COMPARATIVE TABLE OF FOREST AND - - ------------------+---------------+--------------- - ENGLISH. | KU-MBUTTI. | BAKIOKWA. ==> - | | - ------------------+---------------+--------------- - Hill or Mountain. | mambu. | Ibiko. - Food. | Ilyapa. | Liari. - Stick. | mbembe. | mbeketti. - Wood. | kakala. | .. - Cloth. | nangombe. | bongo. - Potatoes. | mburebbo. | .. - Banana. | masaba. | Ibuki. - Salt. | kua. | mabwari. - Flour. | keke. | amamatubitubi - Road. | apende. | nzi. - Road to water. | mbungu-a-libo | .. - Stone. | Itari. | mukuku. - Eye. | mbukesu. | koi. - Nose. | Erro. | mbemberro. - Mouth. | medari. | medari. - Teeth. | minyo. | minyo. - Lips. | pasanioko. | basanioko. - Ears. | kitu. | kitoi. - Tongue. | idakka. | iddakako. - Hand. | ekkakanzikka. | ekkaki. - Hide or Skin. | koko. | kosso. - Run. | mbango. | .. - Sleep. | toro. | bulangi. - Thanks. | batori. | .. - | | - Father. | aupa. | aypa. - Mother. | ioyma. | eyma. - Brother. | Baruku. | aiyapa. - Dead. | kukwa. | ikussa. - No. | kimakari. | .. - Yes. | Ruki. | .. - Good-day. | Kundana. | .. - ------------------+---------------+--------------- - - +--------------+-----------------+-------------- -==> | PIGMY'S | BABIRA | BALEGGA. - | LANGUAGE. | (NEAR KUMINA). | - +--------------+-----------------+-------------- - | ligungu. | mambu. | abero. - | matanja. | pikisavia. | gussa. - | mbau. | lenda. | achu. - | .. | .. | akari. - | ngombe. | bongo. | abbo. - | .. | .. | lali. - | bogu. | ibnku. | Setza. - | appa. | kua. | ako. - | .. | simbo. | usaro-u. - | hambi. | afi. | adzu. - | .. | .. | .. - | libuku. | ite. | achu. - | liho. | isu. | ndenyo. - | hongo. | erro. | loro. - | uchi. | afenogo. | kangaroro. - | minyo. | mino. | nekuro. - | mbuchuki. | mututu. | necho. - | matewu. | kitui. | neppe. - | limi. | iddaka. | nechuro. - | rabegi. | njaga. | nethora. - | eddippa. | mbogo. | kura. - | mbangu. | kutiya. | akoro-lele. - | toro. | toro. | manduga-yigu. - | hek-heh. | .. | .. - | | | - | Abba. | abbe. | abbu. - | amma. | amme. | azha. - | Dadi mwami. | manema. | ja-jaugwa. - | mutwapwa. | kukwa. | doro. - | agh-agh. | .. | .. - | ibba. | .. | .. - | ubalya. | Kisa. | apobangaro. - +--------------+-----------------+-------------- - - -GRASSLAND LANGUAGES (_Continued_). - - WAHUMA. BAVIRA. WASUMBURU AND DINKA.==> - BABUSESSE. - rusossi. bimba. bimba. Ekgur. - viakulya. leri. lissa. benekuu epichar. - mwigo. mwigo. miri. etchortim. - enku. kubuna musa. bau. .. - rubuku. kibugu. bongo. Ebwam. - viyata. kiatta. kafetta. .. - vitoke. didi. nderi. .. - kisura. mukwa. gokoi. .. - nsano. mtubu. ntubu. etyolabib. - muhanda. siyo. sha, midende. ekgwera. - rubengu. tari. tari. makweguru. - lisu. iso. isu. enyer. - nindu. ruru. ruru. ewum. - mkanwa. noko. daka. ketok. - meno. minyo. mino. eyalesa. - munwa. noko. gubono. ettok. - mato. kitoi. kitui. ayit. - arimi. daka. daga. eleb. - kiganza. kiboko. kibogo. etchini. - mbirri or ruhu. mburu. ngufu. .. - chuiruki. kite-teha. .. .. - viame. kisi-niyha. toro. .. - yosimire, kusimiya mali. mtagako. nyapoto. - kurungi. - baba and Tata. baba. baba. etcha lur. - mana and mau. ma-me. mamaki. etcholmar. - mwana-mau. mikima-mama. namako. .. - afwiri. atyaku. kukwa. kojjajitor. - nga. kari. atingani. .. - kiniha. kimasoni. apongi. .. - kississi. kuramichi. lala binzoni. .. - -==> MONBUTTU. NIAM NIAM. - Nouru. Gaugara. - Anyo. Niya. - Nekkirri. Negua. - Ekkirre. Nyake. - Noggi. Lokki. - Namanzingi. Abaugwe. - Ebbugu. Bu. - Nagangu. Tikwo. - Nekkim-bappu. Ngunga. - Neyi. Jine. - Nekoppi. Mbia. - Nengo. Bunglise. - Namu. Omno. - Nettiko. Ng waiy. - Ekki. Lindise. - Andwitiki. Ngwa. - Ebbi. Turu. - Nekkadr. Milalo. - Ette. Bebeyo. - Nerikeppi. Kwotto. - Kurwengo. Moro. - Eyeye. Lammi. - No such word. - Papa. Ba. - Iyangwe. Na. - Iyandegwa. Uriwemi. - Nunsi. Kupi. - Kai. Wotte. - Kappa. Sudu. - Ingasije. Muyekonno. - - - - -APPENDIX C.--FROM THE ATLANTIC TO THE INDIAN OCEAN. - -ITINERARY OF THE JOURNEYS MADE IN 1887, 1888, 1889. - - - - -APPENDIX C.--FROM THE ATLANTIC TO THE INDIAN OCEAN. - -ITINERARY OF THE JOURNEYS MADE IN 1887, 1888, 1889. - -+-------------+-----------------------------------------+---------+-----------+-------+-----------+-------------+-------+ -| | |Distance | Time | Rain | | | Above | -| Date. | Name of Place or Camp. | in |occupied in| during| E. Long. | Latitude. | Sea | -| | | Miles. | Hrs.|Min. | Month.| | | Level.| -+-------------+-----------------------------------------+---------+-----+-----+-------+-----------+-------------+-------+ -| 1887. | | | | | | | | Feet. | -|March 19 & 20|{From the Atlantic Ocean up to the Lower}| | | | | | | | -| |{ Congo to Mataddi }| 108 | 14 | | | | | | -| March 24 to}| March overland from Mataddi to }| | | | | | | | -| April 21}| Leopoldville on Upper Congo. }| 235 | 74 | | | | | | -| May 1 to}| By steamer up the Congo from }| | | | | | | | -| June 15}| Leopoldville to Yambuya }| 1050 | | | |25 deg. 3' 30"|N. 1 deg. 17' 24"| | -| June 28 | Yambuya to Yankonde Forest | 10 | 6 | | | | | 1210 | -| 29 | Bahungi " | 4 | 2 | | |25 deg. 13' 30"|N. 1 deg. 20' | | -| 30 | Burnt Village " | 10 | 7 | | | |N. 1 deg. 14' 35"| | -| July 1 | Camp " | 8 | 5 | | |25 deg. 27' |N. 1 deg. 14' | | -| 2 | " " | 3 | 1 | 45 | | | | | -| 3 | " " | 6 | 7 | 45 | | | | | -| 4 | Camp by Aruwimi Elver " | 5 | 4 | 45 | | | | | -| 5 | Bukanda " | 6-1/2| 6 | 45 | |25 deg. 33' |N. 1 deg. 17' | | -| 6 | Camp " | 2 | 1 | 30 | | | | | -| 7 | Bakuti Village " | 6 | 5 | 30 | | | | | -| 8 | Bakoka Village " | 6 | 5 | 45 | | | | | -| 9 | Village " | 8 | 6 | | |25 deg. 37' 45"|N. 1 deg. 28' 38"| | -| 10 | " " | 7 | 5 | 45 | |25 deg. 42' 30"|N. 1 deg. 29' | | -| 11 | Gwengwere " | 5 | 4 | 30 | | |N. 1 deg. 28' 30"| | -| 12 | Lower Banalya " | 8 | 6 | | |25 deg. 51' 45"|N. 1 deg. 28' 45"| | -| 13 | Upper Banalya " | 8 | 6 | | |25 deg. 58' 45"|N. 1 deg. 31' | | -| 15 | Bungangeta " | 6 | 4 | 30 | |26 deg. 2' 15"|N. 1 deg. 33' | | -| 16 | Lower Mariri " | 7 | 5 | 30 | | | | | -| 17 | Central Mariri " | 5 | 5 | 30 | | | | | -| 18 | Camp " | 8 | 5 | 30 | | | | | -| 19 | Upper Mariri Forest | 2 | 2 | | | | | | -| 20 | " " | 2 | 2 | | |26 deg. 22' 45"|N. 1 deg. 46' | | -| 21 | S. Mupe " | 5 | 4 | 30 | | | | | -| 22 | N. Mupe " | 5 | 5 | 30 | | |N. 1 deg. 50' 48"| | -| 23 | Above Bumbwa " | 7 | 5 | 30 | |26 deg. 22' 15"|N. 1 deg. 56' | | -| 24 | Elephant Playground " | 9 | 6 | 30 | | | | | -| 25 | Bandeya (Wasp Rapids) " | 8 | 7 | | | | | | -| 27 | Camp " | 6 | 5 | 30 | |26 deg. 37' |N. 1 deg. 56' | | -| 28 | Below Mukupi " | 7 | 5 | 30 | |26 deg. 45' |N. 1 deg. 58' | | -| 29 | Opposite Myyui " | 6 | 4 | 15 |56-1/2 |26 deg. 46' 30"|N. 1 deg. 58' 30"| | -| | | | | | hrs. | | | | -| August 1 | Opposite Mambanga " | 9 | 6 | | |26 deg. 48' 45"|N. 1 deg. 57' | | -| 2 | Opposite Ngula R " | 9 | 6 | 30 | | | | | -| 3 | Below Panga Falls " | 7 | 5 | 30 | |26 deg. 50' 45"|N. 1 deg. 54' | | -| 4 | Panga Falls " | 4 | 4 | | |27 deg. 1' 30"|N. 1 deg. 53' | | -| 6 | Above Falls " | 1-1/2| | 45 | | | | | -| 7 | Nejambi Rapids " | 4 | 4 | 30 | | | | | -| 8 | Above Rapids " | 1 | | 30 | | | | | -| 9 | Utiri " | 7 | 4 | | |27 deg. 9' 45"|N. 1 deg. 51' | | -| 11 | Engwedde " | 10 | 5 | 30 | | | | | -| 13 | Avisibba " | 7 | 3 | 45 | |27 deg. 16' O"|N. 1 deg. 41' 16"| | -| 15 | Camp " | 3 | 2 | 45 | | | | | -| 16 | Lower Mabengu Rapids " | 6 | 3 | 45 | | | | | -| 22 | Upper Mabengu Rapids " | 2-1/2| 2 | 45 | | |N. 1 deg. 45' | | -| 23 | Avu-gadu " | 6-1/2| 3 | 30 | | |N. 1 deg. 40' | | -| 24 | Avu-gadu Rapids " | 4 | 5 | 30 | | | | | -| 25 | Fisher's Camp " | 9 | 5 | 30 | |27 deg. 27' 30"|N. 1 deg. 40' | | -| 26 | Ave-jeli " | 8 | 4 | 30 | |27 deg. 31' 45"|N. 1 deg. 37' | | -| 28 | Little Village " | 4-1/2| 5 | 30 | | | | | -| 29 | Camp " | 4 | 5 | 30 | | | | | -| 30 | Foot of Basopo Cataract " | 4 | 4 | | |27 deg. 35' 30'|N. 1 deg. 40' | | -| 31 | Basopo Cataract " | 2-1/2| 1 | 30 |56 HRS.| | | | -| September 1 | Foot of Rapids " | 6 | 4 | 30 | | | | | -+-------------+-----------------------------------------+---------+-----+-----+-------+-----------+-------------+-------+ -| | Carried forward | 1698 | | | | | | | -+-------------+-----------------------------------------+---------+-----+-----+-------+-----------+-------------+-------+ - --------------+----------------------------------------+--------+----------+---------+-------------+-------------+-------+ -| Date. | Name of Place or Camp. |Distance| Time | Rain | E Long. | Latitude. | Above | -| | | in |occupied in| during | | | Sea | -| | |Miles. | Hrs.| Min.| Month.| | | Level.| -|------------|----------------------------------------|--------|-----|-----|--------|-------------|-------------|-------| -| | BY ARUWIMI RIVER--_continued_. | | | | | | | Feet. | -| 1887 | Brought forward |1698 | | | | | | | -|September 3 | Camp Forest | 3 | 3 | 30 | | | | | -| 4 | Top of Cataract " | 4 | 2 | 45 | | | | | -| 5 | Hippo Broads Camp " | 3 | 1 | 30 | .. | .. | N 1 deg. 40' | 1916 | -| 6 | Foot of Bafaido Cataract " | 8 | 5 | .. | .. | .. | .. | 1964 | -| 8 | Aveyabu " | 9 | 5 | .. | .. | .. | N 1 deg. 29' | | -| 9 | Navaiya Rapids " | 7 | 4 | 30 | .. | 27 deg. 54' 30" | N 1 deg. 30' | | -| 10 | Navaiya Cataract " | 3-1/2| 3 | 30 | | | | | -| 11 | Navabi Village " | 4 | 3 | 30 | .. | 27 deg. 56' | N 1 deg. 26' | | -| 12 | Camp " | 6 | 5 | | | | | | -| 13 | Amiri Falls " | 6-1/2| 4 | .. | .. | .. | N 1 deg. 24' | | -| 15 | Rapids " | 5-1/2| 5 | | | | | | -| 16 | Below Ugarrowwa's Station " | 5-1/2| 5 | | | | | | -| 17 | Opposite Ugarrowwa's Station " | 1-1/2| 1 | .. | | 28 deg. 0' 45" | N 1 deg. 23' | | -| 19 | Camp below Bunda Village " | 7 | 4 | 30 | | | | | -| 20 | Near Lenda R. " | 9 | 6 | .. | .. | 28 deg. 5' | N 1 deg. 20' | | -| 21 | Above Lenda R. " | 2 | 1 | 30 | | | | | -| 22 | Umeni " | 5 | 3 | .. | .. | 28 deg. 18' | N 1 deg. 18' | | -| 23 | Near Cataract " | 6-1/2| 4 | | | | | | -| 25 | Old Arab Camp " | 3 | 4 | | | | | | -| 26 | Opposite Avetiko " | 3 | 5 | .. | .. | 28 deg. 20' 45" | N 1 deg. 16' | 2548 | -| 28 | Opposite island " | 7 | 5 | .. | .. | 28 deg. 24' | N 1 deg. 13' | | -| 30 | Native Camp at Ferry " | 8 | 6 | .. | 65 hrs.| 28 deg. 25' | N 1 deg. 11' | | -| October 3 | Narrows " | 4 | 5 | | | | | | -| 4 | Crossed River to right bank " | 1-1/2| 1 | | | | | | -| 5 | Nelson's Starvation Camp " | 2 | 1 | .. | .. | 28 deg. 30' | N 1 deg. 10' | | -| | (recrossed to left bank) | | | | | | | | -| 6 | Camp (Inland) " | 4-1/2| 4 | 30 | | | | | -| 7 | Camp on island " | 7 | 7 | | | | | | -| 8 | Camp opposite island Forest | 2 | 2 | | |28 deg. 37' 45" |N. 1 deg. 10' | | -| 11 | Camp " | 7 | 6 | | | | | | -| 12 | Camp " | 4-1/2| 3 | | | |N. 1 deg. 4' 26"| | -| 14 | Crossed Aruwimi River to N. bank " | | | | |28 deg. 43' 30" |N. 1 deg. 4' 45"| 2340 | -| 15 | Camp (Inland) " | 4-1/2| 4 | | |28 deg. 44' |N. 1 deg. 9' | | -| 16 | Camp " | 7 | 5 | | | | | | -| 17 | Camp " | 7 | 5 | 30 | | | | | -| 18 | Ipoto. Kilonga-Longa's Station " | 2 | 2 | 30 | |28 deg. 51' |N. 1 deg. 6' 11" | 2935 | -| 28 | Yumbu " | 5 | 3 | 30 | | | | | -| 29 | Busindi " | 6 | 4 | 30 | |28 deg. 54' 45" |N. 1 deg. 9' | 2889 | -| 31 | Camp " | 8 | 5 | 15 |51-1/2 | | | | -| | | | | | hrs. | | | | -| November 1 | Mambungu's " | 9 | 5 | 45 | |28 deg. 58' 45" |N. 1 deg. 13' 22"| 2560 | -| 3 | Camp " | 8-1/2| 5 | 45 | | | | | -| 4 | Ndugubisha " | 5-1/4| 3 | 30 | |29 deg. 10' 45" |N. 1 deg. 14' 28"| 3607 | -| 5 | West Inde-karu " | 9-3/4| 5 | 45 | |29 deg. 14' |N. 1 deg. 19' | | -| 6 | Inde-karu on Hill " | 2-1/2| 1 | 30 | |29 deg. 15' |N. 1 deg. 20' 15"| 3810 | -| 8 | Camp " | 11 | 7 | | | | | | -| 9 | Camp " | 9-1/2| 6 | 15 | | | | | -| 10 | W. Ibwiri (site of Fort Bodo) " | 4-1/4| 2 | 45 | |29 deg. 25' |N. 1 deg. 20' | 3503 | -| 24 | Camp " | 9 | 5 | 15 | | | | | -| 25 | Inde-mwani " | 8-1/2| 4 | 30 | | | | 3510 | -| 26 | W. Inde-nduru " | 11-1/4| 5 | 30 | |29 deg. 39' 15" |N. 1 deg. 22' | 3610 | -| 27 | E. Inde-nduru " | 7 | 3 | 15 | |29 deg. 41' |N. 1 deg. 22' 23"| 3470 | -| 29 | Baburu " | 10 | 5 | 15 | | | | 3758 | -| 30 | Bakwuru (Mount Pisgah, 4600 ft.) " | 3-1/4| 2 | 15 |64-1/4 |29 deg. 46' |N. 1 deg. 21' 40"| 4350 | -| | | | | | hrs. | | | | -| December 1 | Three Hut Village " | 10-1/2| 6 | 15 | | |N. 1 deg. 26' | 3814 | -| 2 | Inde-sura " | 7 | 4 | 15 | |29 deg. 51' 45" |N. 1 deg. 24' | | -| | (End of the Forest) | | | | | | | | -| 4 | Camp. Cross W. Ituri River | 8-1/2| 5 | | | | | 2950 | -| | (First in the Grass Land) | | | | | | | | -| 5 | Babusesse Villages | 7 | 5 | 30 | |30 deg. 0' 0" |N. 1 deg. 28' | | -| 6 | Crossed Ituri or Aruwimi River | | | | | | | 3470 | -+------------+----------------------------------------+--------+----+------+--------+-------------+-------------+-------+ -| | Carried forward |2028-3/4| | | | | | | -+------------+----------------------------------------+--------+----+------+--------+-------------+-------------+-------+ - -+----------+------------------------------------+--------+-----------+--------+----------+-----------+------+ -| | |Distance| Time | Rain | | |Above | -| Date. | Name of Place or Camp. | in |occupied in| during | E. Long. | Latitude | Sea | -| | | Miles. | Hrs.| Min.| Month.| | |Level.| -+----------+------------------------------------+--------+-----+-----+--------+----------+-----------+------+ -| | INLAND--_continued_. | | | | | | | Feet.| -| 1887. | Brought forward |2028-3/4| | | | | | | -|December 7|Crossed East Ituri River | 4 | 2 | 30 | | | | | -| 8|Undussuma. (Mazamboni's) | 13 | 6 | 45 | |30 deg. 10'45"|N.1 deg. 25'15"|4235 | -| 12|Uzanza or Gavira's | 9 | 5 | | | | |4657 | -| | (Brow of Plateau overlooking Lake)| | | | | | |5282 | -| 13|Lake Plain | 13 | 8 | | | | | | -| 14|Shore of the Albert Nyanza | 5 | 2 | 30 | |30 deg. 29' |N.1 deg. 19' 6"|2400 | -| | { By Aneroid No. 1}| | | | | | |2235 | -| |Altitude of Lake { " No. 2}| | | | | | |2400 | -| | above sea. { " No. 3}| | | | | | |2400 | -| | { By Hypsometer }| | | | | | |2245 | -| | Balegga Hills above Lake | | | | | | |5353 | -| | | | | | | | | | -| | (_Returning from Lake._) | | | | | | | | -| | | | | | | | | | -| 16|To foot of Plateau | 9 | 6 | | | | | | -| 17|Uzanzu (Gavira's) | 10 | 4 | 45 | | | |4657 | -| 19|E. Undussuma | 12 | 6 | | | | |4235 | -| 20|W. Urumangwa | 12 | 6 | | | | | | -| 21|East Ituri River | 5-1/2| 2 | 30 | | | | | -| 23|Main Ituri River | 4 | 2 | | | | | | -| 24|To Bridge across River | 2 | 1 | | | | | | -| 28|Village W. of Mbiri | 11 | 5 | | | | | | -| 29|Inde-sura Edge of Forest | 8 | 4 | 30 | | | | | -| 30|Three Hut Village. " | 7 | 5 | | | | | | -| 31|Imburun " | 9 | 5 | 45 | 31-3/4 | | | | -| 1888. | | | | | hrs | | | | -|January 1|Inde-tongo " | 5-1/2| 3 | 30 | |29 deg. 42' |N.1 deg. 29' | | -+----------+------------------------------------+--------+-----------+--------+----------+-----------+------+ - -+--------------+-----------------------------------------+--------+-----------+---------+-----------+---------------+------+ -| | |Distance| Time | Rain | | |Above | -| Date. | Name of Place or Camp. | in |occupied in| during | E. Long. | Latitude | Sea | -| | | Miles. | Hrs.| Min.| Month.| | |Level.| -+--------------+-----------------------------------------+--------+-----+-----+---------+-----------+---------------+------+ -| 2 | Inde-sedi Edge of Forest | 5 | 3 | | | | | | -| 3 | Barikunga " | 7 | 5 | | | | | | -| 5 | Inde-mwani " | 9 | 4 | 45 | | | | | -| 6 | Pigmies' Camp " | 8-1/4| 5 | 5 | | | | | -| 7 | FORT BODO " | 7-1/2| 4 | 15 |29-1/4 hrs.| | | 3503 | -|January 16 to{| During Building of Fort Bodo Lt. Stairs}| 157-1/2| | |43-1/2 hrs.| | | | -| April 26 {| proceeds to Ipoto and returns }| | | | | | | | -| {| Then proceeds to Ugarrowwa and back | 400 | | |60-1/2 hrs.| | | | -| | | | | | | | | | -| |SECOND JOURNEY TO ALBERT NYANZA. | | | | | | | | -| | | | | | | | | | -| April 2 | Camp | 4 | 2 | 30 | | | | | -| 3 | Pigmies' Cross Roads Camp Forest | 8-1/2| 6 | 10 | | | | | -| 4 | Inde-mwani " | 5-1/2| 3 | 20 | | | | 3510 | -| 5 | Pigmies' Camp " | 6-1/2| 4 | 20 | | | | | -| 6 | W. Inde-nduru " | 5 | 3 | | | | | 3610 | -| 7 | E. Inde-nduru " | 7 | 3 | 45 | | | | 3470 | -| 8 | Baburu " | 10 | 5 | 30 | | | | 3758 | -| 9 | W. Mande " | 9 | 5 | | | | | | -| 10 | Ituri River Ferry " | 3-1/2| 2 | 30 | | | | 3000 | -| 11 | First Camp Grass land | 7-1/2| 4 | 30 | | | | | -| 12 | Besse " | 7 | 3 | 30 | | | | 3565 | -| 13 | Near Mukangi " | 7 | 4 | 30 | | | | 3718 | -| 14 | Undussuma " | 12 | 6 | | | | | 4235 | -| 16 | Uzanza (Gavira's) " | 9 | 5 | 45 | | | | 4657 | -| 18 | Kavalli's " | 9 | 5 | | | | N. 1 deg. 28' | 4803 | -| 25 | Bundi " | 6 | 3 | | | | N. 1 deg. 25' 33"| | -| 26 | Badzwa. Nyanza Plain " | 3 | 2 | 45 | | 30 deg. 24' | N. 1 deg. 25' | | -| 29 | Albert Nyanza. Meeting with Emin. | 7 | 3 | 30 | | | | 2400 | -| 30 | Nsabe--Along Lake shore | 5 | 3 | |48-1/2 hrs.| 30 deg. 33' 45"| N. 1 deg. 30' 15"| | -+--------------+-----------------------------------------+--------+----+----+-----------+------------+--------------+------+ -| | Carried forward |2893-1/2| | | | | | | -+--------------+-----------------------------------------+--------+----+----+-----------+------------+--------------+------+ - -+-------------+-----------------------------------------+---------+-----------+-------+-----------+-------------+-------+ -| | |Distance | Time | Rain | | | Above | -| Date. | Name of Place or Camp. | in |occupied in| during| E. Long. | Latitude. | Sea | -| | | Miles. | Hrs.|Min. | Month.| | | Level.| -+-------------+-----------------------------------------+---------+-----+-----+-------+-----------+-------------+-------+ -| | | | | | | | | Feet. | -| | IN SEARCH OF REAR COLUMN. | | | | | | | | -| | | | | | | | | | -| 1888. | Brought forward | 2893-1/2| | | | | | | -| May 24 | Badzwa | 10 | 4 | | | | | | -| 26 | Bundi | 3 | 3 | | | | | | -| 27 | Uzanza (Gavira's) | 8 | 3 | 30 | | | | 4657 | -| 29 | Usiri | 5 | 3 | | | | | | -| 30 | Undussuma | 6-1/2| 3 | |29 hrs.| | | 4235 | -| June 1 | Mukangi | 12 | 5 | | | | | 3718 | -| 2 | Ukuba, Besse | 8 | 4 | 30 | | | | 3565 | -| 3 | Ituri River Ferry | 14-1/2| 6 | | | | | 3000 | -| 4 | W. Mande Forest | 3-1/2| 1 | 30 | | | | | -| 5 | E. Indepessu " | 13 | 6 | 30 | | | | | -| 6 | W. Inde-nduru " | 13 | 6 | 30 | | | | 3610 | -| 7 | Pigmies' Cross Roads Camp " | 13 | 7 | 20 | | | | | -| 8 | Fort Bodo " | 12 | 7 | | | | | 3503 | -| 16 | Camp " | 11-1/2| 7 | | | | | | -| 17 | Inde-karu on Hill " | 12-1/2| 8 | | | | | 3810 | -| 19 | Ndugubisha " | 12-1/4| 7 | 15 | | | | 3607 | -| 20 | Nzalli's " | 11-1/2| 5 | 45 | | | | 2560 | -| 21 | Camp of 31st October " | 12 | 7 | 20 | | | | | -| 22 | Busindi " | 12 | 7 | 20 | | | | 2889 | -| 23 | Ipoto (Arab settlement) " | 7 | 4 | 50 | | | | 2935 | -| 25 | Ituri River Ferry " | 4 | 2 | 15 | | | | | -| 26 | Camp of October 14th, 1887 " | 5-1/2| 2 | 45 | | | | | -| 27 | Camp " | 11 | 8 | | | | | | -| 28 | Nelson's Starvation Camp " | 10 | 6 | 55 | | | | | -| 29 | Iyuku " | 8-1/2| 7 | 20 | | | | | -| 30 | Camp " | 9 | 7 | 45 |43 hrs.| | | | -| July 1 | " " | 4 | 3 | 45 | | | | | -| 2 | Camp on Lenda River " | 9 | 7 | 50 | | | | | -+-------------+-----------------------------------------+---------+-----+-----+-------+-----------+-------------+-------+ - - -+----------+---------------------------------------+--------+--------+-------+-----------+-------------+------+ -| | |Distance|Time in | Rain | | |Above | -| Date. | Name of Place or Camp. | in |occupied| during| E. Long. | Latitude. | Sea | -| | | Miles. | Hrs.|Min. | Month.| | |Level.| -+----------+---------------------------------------+--------+---+----+-------+-----------+-------------+------+ -| 3 | Camp on Lenda River Forest | 6 | 4 | 10 | | | | | -| 5 | Crossed Lenda River to Camp " | 7 | 5 | 30 | | | | | -| 6 | Village " | 7 | 5 | 30 | | | | | -| 7 | Camp " | 8 | 6 | 15 | | | | | -| 8 | Bandeya " | 8 | 6 | 15 | | | | | -| 9 | Ujangwa " | 2-3/4| 2 | 45 | | | | | -| 10 | Camp " | 6 | 4 | 30 | | | | | -| 11 | Beyond Nuyo " | 3-3/4| 3 | 45 | | | | | -| 12 | Camp " | 4 | 3 | 30 | | | | | -| 13 | Below Ugarrowwa's Camp " | 8 | 4 | | | | | | -| 14 | Amiri Falls " | 11 | 5 | 30 | | | | | -| 16 | Camp of 12th Sept. 1887 " | 16-1/2| 7 | 30 | | | | | -| 17 | Navaiya Rapids " | 10-1/2| 3 | 45 | | | | | -| 20 | Ave-yabu (near Bafaido Cataract) " | 13 | 7 | 30 | | | | | -| 21 | Bafaido Cataract " | 4 | 2 | | | | | 1964 | -| 22 | Foot of Cataract " | 15 | 8 | | | | | | -| 23 | Basopo Cataract " | 8-1/2| 6 | 15 | | | | | -| 25 | Camp at Rapids " | 4 | 4 | | | | | | -| 26 | Ave-jeli " | 8-1/2| 5 | 30 | | | | | -| 28 | Near Avu-gadu Rapids " | 13 | 7 | 30 | | | | | -| 29 | Avu-gadu " | 6 | 4 | 30 | | | | | -| 30 | M[=a]bengu Village " | 11 | 6 | 30 | | | | | -| 31 | Avisibba " | 8 | 7 | 30 |61-1/2 | | | | -| | | | | | hrs. | | | | -| August 2 | Camp below Engwedde " | 13 | 5 | 30 | | | | | -| 3 | Opposite Bapaiya Island " | 9 | 7 | 30 | | | | | -| 4 | Panga Falls " | 8-1/2| 8 | 30 | | | | | -| 7 | Opposite Ngula R. mouth " | 11 | 8 | | | | | | -| 8 | " Mambanga " | 9 | 6 | 30 | | | | | -| 9 | " Myyui " | 9 | 6 | 30 | | | | | -| 10 | Camp " | 10 | 8 | | | | | | -| 11 | Bandeya " | 9 | 7 | | | | | | -| 12 | Batundu (by canoes) " | 16 | 6 | | | | | | -+----------+---------------------------------------+--------+---+----+-------+-----------+-------------+------+ -| | Carried forward |3438-3/4| | | | | | | -+----------+---------------------------------------+--------+---+----+-------+-----------+-------------+------+ - -+------------+------------------------------------------+--------+-----------+----------+------------+---------------+------+ -| | |Distance| Time | Rain | | |Above | -| Date. | Name of Place or Camp. | in |occupied in| during | E. Long. | Latitude | Sea | -| | | Miles. | Hrs.| Min.| Month. | | |Level.| -+------------+------------------------------------------+--------+-----+-----+-------- -+------------+---------------+------+ -| |IN SEARCH OF REAR COLUMN--_continued._ | | | | | | | Feet.| -| | | | | | | | | | -| 1888. | Brought forward |3438-3/4| | | | | | | -| August 13 | S. Mupe Forest | 11 | 4 | 30 | | | | | -| 15 | Below Mariri Rapids " | 9 | 10 | | | | | | -| 16 | Bungangeta Island " | 20 | 7 | | | | | | -| 17 | Banalya. Discovery of Rear Column | 7 | 1 | 30 | | | | | -| | | | | | | | | | -| | THIRD JOURNEY TO ALBERT NYANZA. | | | | | | | | -| | | | | | | | | | -| 21 | Bungangeta Island Forest | 7 | 3 | | | | | | -| 31 | Opposite Central Mariri " | 12 | 6 | | 47 hrs. | | | | -|September 1 | Mariri Rapids " | 8 | 3 | | | | | | -| 2 | Upper Mariri " | 4 | 4 | | | | | | -| 3 | S. Mupe " | 5 | 3 | | | | | | -| 5 | Batundu " | 11 | 7 | | | | | | -| 8 | Elephant Playground " | 10 | 6 | 30 | | | | | -| 9 | Below Bandeya " | 5 | 5 | 30 | | | | | -| 10 | Bandeya " | 3 | 3 | 45 | | | | | -| 12 | Opposite Manginni " | 10 | 6 | 30 | | | | | -| 13 | " Myyui " | 9 | 7 | | | | | | -| 14 | " Mambanga " | 9 | 5 | | | | | | -| 17 | " Ngula R. mouth " | 9 | 5 | 30 | | | | | -| 18 | " Island " | 7 | 4 | 45 | | | | | -| 19 | Panga Falls " | 4 | 4 | 30 | | | | | -| 20 | Camp above Falls " | 1-1/2| 1 | | | | | | -| 21 | Nejambi Rapids " | 4 | 4 | | | | | | -| 24 | Camp above Utiri " | 9 | 5 | 15 | | | | | -| 25 | Engwedde " | 9 | 6 | 45 | | | | | -| 26 | Avisibba " | 7 | 3 | 30 | | | | | -| 27 | Foot of Mabengu Rapids Forest | 9 | 6 | 30 | | | | | -| 29 | Upper Mabengu Rapids " | 2-1/2| 4 | | | | | | -| 30 | Upper Rapids of Avu-gadu " | 10-1/2|10 | |10-1/2hrs.| | | | -| October 1 | Ave-jeli " | 17 | 7 | 30 | | | | | -| 2 | Little Rapids " | 8-1/2| 5 | 30 | | | | | -| 4 | Bavikai, N. bank " | 6 | 4 | | | 27 deg. 34' | N. 1 deg. 38' | | -| 7 | Basopo Cataract, S. Bank " | 4 | 3 | | | | | | -| 8 | Foot of Cataract " | 6 | 4 | | | | | | -| 9 | Top of Rapids " | 4 | 3 | 15 | | | | 1980| -| 10 | Hippo Broads " | 3 | 1 | 30 | | | | 1916| -| 11 | Bafaido Cataract " | 8 | 5 | 30 | | | | 1964| -| 13 | Ave-yabu " | 9 | 5 | | | | | | -| 14 | Navaiya Rapids " | 7 | 4 | 30 | | | | | -| 16 | Navabi Cataract " | 3-1/2| 3 | 30 | | | | | -| 17 | Above Navabi Village " | 6 | 4 | 30 | | | | | -| 18 | Foot of Amiri Falls " | 6-1/2| 5 | 30 | | | | | -| 19 | Top of Amiri Falls " | 1 | | 30 | | | | | -| 22 | Rapids " | 5-1/2| 3 | | | | | | -| 23 | Ugarrowwa's. N. bank " | 8 | 6 | | | | | | -| 24 | Bunda " " | 9 | 6 | 30 | | | | | -| 25 | Opposite Lenda R. " " | 10 | 5 | | | | | | -| 26 | Big Rapids " " | 7-1/2| 5 | 30 | | | | | -| 27 | Above Cataract " " | 8 | 4 | | | | | | -| 28 | W. Ave-tiko " " | 5-1/2| 3 | | | | | 2548| -| 30 | Camp (inland) " | 7 | 5 | | | | | | -| 31 | " near Epeni R. " | 6 | 5 | 30 | 39 hrs. | | | 2815| -| November 1 | Andaki " | 5 | 3 | 45 | | 28 deg. 25' | N. 1 deg. 16' 35" | 2907| -| 3 | Camp " | 7 | 5 | | | | | | -| 4 | " " | 8 | 5 | 45 | | | N. 1 deg. 16' 38" | 3051| -| 5 | " " | 9-1/4| 6 | 45 | | | N. 1 deg. 19' 0" | | -| 6 | " " | 8 | 6 | 30 | | | | | -| 11 | " " | 3-1/2| 2 | 30 | | 28 deg. 42' 15"| N. 1 deg. 17' 30" | | -+------------+------------------------------------------+--------+--- +---- +----------+------------+---------------+------+ -| | Carried forward |3848 | | | | | | | -+------------+------------------------------------------+--------+--- +---- +----------+------------+---------------+------+ - -+------------+----------------------------------------+--------+-----------+----------+-----------+-------------+------+ -| | |Distance| Time | Rain | | |Above | -| Date. | Name of Place or Camp. | in |occupied in| during | E. Long. | Latitude. | Sea | -| | | Miles. |Hrs. |Min. | Month. | | |Level.| -+------------+----------------------------------------+--------+-----+-----+----------+-----------+-------------+------+ -| | | | | | | | | Feet.| -| | | | | | | | | | -| 1888. | Brought forward |3848 | | | | | | | -|November 12 | Camp Forest | 9 | 6 | | | | | | -| 13 | " " | 8-1/2| 6 | | | | | | -| 14 | Andikumu " | 6-1/2| 4 | | |28 deg. 54' |N. 1 deg. 29' 15"| 3414 | -| 19 | Camp " | 4-1/2| 3 | 45 | | | | | -| 20 | " " | 5 | 4 | | | | | | -| 21 | " " | 7-1/2| 5 | 30 | | | | | -| 22 | " " | 8-1/4| 6 | | |29 deg. 2' |N. 1 deg. 44' | | -| 23 | " " | 3-1/2| 2 | 30 | | | | | -| 25 | Inde-mau " | 6-1/4| 3 | 30 |35-3/4hrs.|29 deg. 7' 45"|N. 1 deg. 47' 16"| 3635 | -| December 1 | Dui River " | 9 | 5 | 30 | | | | 3296 | -| 2 | Andi-uba " | 9 | 5 | 30 | | | | 3360 | -| 3 | Addi-guhha " | 6 | 3 | | |29 deg. 18' 30"|N. 1 deg. 39' | 3462 | -| 4 | Ngwetza " | 7-3/4| 4 | 30 | | | | 3565 | -| 6 | Camp " | 7-1/2| 6 | 30 | | | | | -| 7 | " " | 7 | 5 | 30 | | | | 3600 | -| 8 | Starvation Camp " | 8-1/2| 6 | 15 | |29 deg. 21' 30"|N. 1 deg. 27' 15"| 3472 | -| 15 | Camp of 7th December " | 8-1/2| 5 | 30 | | | | | -| 16 | Starvation Camp " | 8-1/2| 5 | 30 | | | | | -| 17 | Ihuru River " | 5 | 3 | 30 | | | | 3380 | -| 18 | Camp " | 5 | 3 | 45 | | | | | -| 19 | Plantations of Fort Bodo " | 6 | 5 | | | | | | -| 20 | Fort Bodo " | 3 | 2 | | | | | 3503 | -| 23 | Pigmies' Cross Roads Camp " | 9 | 5 | 30 | | | | 3683 | -| 24 | Pigmies' Camp " | 5 | 2 | 30 | | | | 3865 | -| | (A portion of the Column proceeds} | | | | | | | | -| | from Fort Bodo to Ituri River } | 106-1/2| 52 | | 16-1/2 | | | | -| | and returns to Pigmies' Camp) } | | | | hrs. | | | | -| 1889. | | | | | | | | | -| January 4 | Inde-mwani Forest| 5 | 3 | | | | | 3510 | -| 5 | Near W. Inde-nduru " | 10 | 5 | 50 | | | | 3610 | -| 6 | Beyond E. Inde-nduru " | 8 | 3 | 55 | | | | 3470 | -| 7 | Mount Pisgah " | 9-1/2| 4 | 40 | | | | 4600 | -| 9 | Ituri River Ferry " | | 7 | | 3 45 | | | 3000 | -| 10 | Kandekore " | 1/2| | 15 | | | | 3464 | -| 11 | First Camp Grass Land| 6-1/4| 3 | 10 | | | | 3718 | -| 12 | Besse " | 6 | 2 | 50 | | | | 3565 | -| 13 | Near Mukangi " | 9-3/4| 4 | 50 | | | | | -| 14 | Undussuma " | 8 | 3 | 50 | | | | 4235 | -| 16 | Uzanza. (Gavira's) " | 9 | 4 | 30 | | | | 4657 | -| 18 | KAVALLI'S. RESCUE OF EMIN PASHA | 8 | 4 | 10 | 9 hrs. | | | 4803 | -| | Height of Balegga Hills | | | | | | | 5591 | -| |{To Nyanza and back (26 miles), }| | | |Feb. 11hrs.| | | | -| |{performed 19 separate times }| 494 | | | | | | | -| | Journey to Ituri River and back | 94 | | |Mar.10-1/2"| | | | -| | | | | | | | | | -| | | | | | | | | | -| | RETREAT TO THE SEA. | | | | | | | | -| | | | | | | | | | -| April 10 | To Gavira's from Kavalli | 8 | 4 | 10 | | | | 4657 | -| 12 | Undussuma | 9 | 4 | 30 | 43 hrs | | | 4235 | -| May 8 | Buryambiri | 7 | 3 | 45 | | | | | -| 9 | Ujungwa, central | 6-1/2| 4 | 15 | | | | 4100 | -| 10 | Utinda | 7 | 4 | 30 | | | | | -| 11 | Buhobo | 6-1/2| 4 | 15 | |30 deg. 8' 30"|N. 1 deg. 11' | 4966 | -| 12 | Mboga | 5 | 3 | | |30 deg. 8' 15"|N. 1 deg. 3' | | -| 14 | Kiryama | 6 | 3 | 45 | |30 deg. 11' 45"|N. 1 deg. 0' 30"| 2900 | -| 17 | Awamba Ferry. Semliki R. | 10 | 4 | 45 | |30 deg. 11' 45"|N. 0 deg. 53' 45"| 2450 | -| 20 | Large Village. AWAMBA Forest | 2-1/2| 1 | 30 | | | | | -| 22 | Small Village " | 8 | 6 | | | | | | -+------------+----------------------------------------+--------+-----+-----+-----------+-----------+-------------+------+ -| | Carried forward |4861-3/4| | | | | | | -+------------+----------------------------------------+--------+-----+-----+-----------+-----------+-------------+------+ - -+-------+------------------------------------+--------+-----------+----------+-----------+-------------+------+ -| | |Distance| Time | Rain | E. Long. | Latitude. |Above | -| Date. | Name of Place or Camp. | in |occupied in| during | | | Sea | -| | | Miles. |Hrs. |Min. | Month. | | |Level.| -+-------+------------------------------------+--------+-----+-----+----------+-----------+-------------+------+ -| | | | | | | | | Feet.| -| |RETREAT TO THE SEA--_continued._ | | | | | | | | -| | | | | | | | | | -| 1889.| Brought forward |4861-3/4| | | | | | | -| May 23| Baki Kundi Forest | 4 | 2 | 15 | |30 deg. 11' 45"|N. 0 deg. 47' 3"| | -| 25| Village " | 4 | 2 | 30 | | | | | -| 26| Ugarania. Edge of Forest " | 5 | 3 | | |30 deg. 14' 45"|N. 0 deg. 45' 49"| 2942| -| 29| Butama | 4 | 2 | 30 | | |N. 0 deg. 38' 48"| | -| 30| Bukoko | 7 | 4 | |64-3/4hrs.| |N. 0 deg. 40' | 3345| -| June 2| Banzombe | 8 | 5 | | | |N. 0 deg. 38' | 3050| -| 3| Bakokoro | 3 | 3 | | | |N. 0 deg. 37' | | -| 5| Mtarega | 4 | 2 | 30 | | |N. 0 deg. 29' | 3864| -| | Stairs's Highest ascent to below | | | | | | | | -| | Twin Cones | | | | | | |10,677| -| 9| Forest Camp | 7 | 4 | 45 | | | | 3200| -| 10| Ulegga. UKONJU | 6-1/4| 5 | | | |N. 0 deg. 20' 39"| 4500| -| 11| Mtsora | 7 | 4 | 30 | |29 deg. 46' 45"|N. 0 deg. 15' | 3990| -| |Plain, Ancient bed of Lake below | | | | | | | 3643| -| | Mtsora | | | | | | | | -| 14| Muhamba. USONGORA | 10 | 4 | 30 | | | | | -| | Upper Semliki River nearly opposite| | | | | | | 3401| -| 15| Karimi | 8-1/2| 4 | | |29 deg. 49' |N. 0 deg. 4' 30"| 4850| -| 16| Rusesse. ALBERT EDW. LAKE--USONGORA| 11 | 4 | 45 | |29 deg. 53' 30"|N. 0 deg. 2' 30"| 3710| -| 17| Katwe | 12 | 4 | 20 | |30 deg. 1' 30"|S. 0 deg. 8' 15"| 3461| -| | Lake Albert Edward | | | | | | | 3307| -| | Salt Lake | | | | | | | 3265| -| 20| Mukungu | 18-1/2| 6 | 45 | |30 deg. 11' 30"|S. 0 deg. 1' 30"| | -| 21| Muhokya | 11 | 4 | | |30 deg. 11' 30"|N. 0 deg. 8' | | -| 22| Buruli. ALBERT EDWARD LAKE--TORO. | 10-1/4| 4 | 15 | |30 deg. 16' 15"|N. 0 deg. 13' | 3320| -| 25| Nsongi River | 12 | 5 | 45 | |30 deg. 20' 30"|N. 0 deg. 19' | 3320| -| 26| Kavandare | 7-1/2| 4 | | |30 deg. 24' 45"|N. 0 deg. 15' 30"| 3875| -| 28| Camp | 6-1/2| 3 | 45 | | |N. 0 deg. 12' | | -| 29| Chaml[=e]rikwa | 6-1/2| 3 | 45 |7-1/2 hrs.| | | | -| July 1| Kasunga-Nyanza | 6 | 3 | | |30 deg. 22' 30"|N. 0 deg. 0' 45"| | -| 3| Katari. ANKORI | 9 | 4 | 15 | | | | | -| 4| Kitete | 8 | 4 | 45 | |30 deg. 19' 45"|S. 0 deg. 11' 45"| 4329| -| 5| Kibwiga | 5 | 3 | | | | | 5260| -| | Kinya magara ridge | | | | | | | 6160| -| 6| Buzimba | 5 | 2 | 30 | |30 deg. 28' |S. 0 deg. 10' | 5002| -| 9| Kitega | 9 | 4 | 45 | |30 deg. 31' 30"|S. 0 deg. 16' | 5750| -| 10| Katara | 6 | 3 | | |30 deg. 31' |S. 0 deg. 23' 15"| 5355| -| 11| Wamaganga | 5-1/2| 2 | 45 | | |S. 0 deg. 32' 15"| 4960| -| 12| Kasari | 7 | 3 | 30 | | | | 4860| -| 14| Nyamatoso | 10-1/2| 4 | | |30 deg. 42' 30"|S. 0 deg. 36' 30"| 4860| -| 17| Kasussu | 10 | 4 | 45 | | |S. 0 deg. 41' | 5300| -| 21| Namianja | 6 | 3 | 15 | |30 deg. 47' 30"|S. 0 deg. 43' | 4890| -| 22| Viaruha | 6 | 3 | 15 | |30 deg. 51' |S. 0 deg. 45' 15"| 4835| -| 24| Mavona | 8 | 4 | 15 | |30 deg. 54' |S. 0 deg. 46' 45"| | -| 25| Alexandra Nile | 11 | 5 | | | | | | -| 26| Ferry across River (Alexandra Nile)| 1-1/2| | 45 | |30 deg. 56' 30"|S. 0 deg. 57' 45"| 4150| -| 28| Unya Katera. KARAGWE | 6 | 2 | 50 | |30 deg. 58' 15"|S. 1 deg. 5' 45"| 4460| -| 29| Hot Springs, Mtagata | 11 | 5 | | |31 deg. 0' |S. 1 deg. 9' 10"| | -| 31| Kirurumo | 9 | 4 | | | | | 4890| -|August1| Butete | 10 | 4 | | |31 deg. 7' 15"|S. 1 deg. 23' | | -| 2| Kivona | 11 | 5 | | |31 deg. 11' |S. 1 deg. 30' 15"| | -| 3| Kafurro | 12 | 6 | | | |S. 1 deg. 39' 45"| 4720| -| 7| Rozaka | 10 | 5 | | | | | 5160| -| 8| Utenga | 7 | 3 | | | | | 5000| -| 10| Urigi Lake | 9 | 4 | 30 | |31 deg. 25' 45"|S. 1 deg. 55' 15"| 3930| -| 11| Urigi Lake, Kavari. IHANGIRO | 9-1/2| 4 | 45 | |31 deg. 29' |S. 2 deg. 0' | 3930| -| 12| Urigi Lake, Mutara | 7 | 3 | 30 | |31 deg. 31' 45"|S. 2 deg. 7' 15"| | -| 13| Ngoti | 10 | 4 | 30 | | |S. 2 deg. 11' 30"| | -| 15| Kimwani, Victoria Nyanza. UZINJA | 10 | 5 | | |31 deg. 48' 45"|S. 2 deg. 17' 30"| 4220| -| 18| Nyamagoju, Victoria Nyanza | 12 | 4 | 45 | |31 deg. 46' 30"|S. 2 deg. 19' 30"| 3900| -| 19| Kisaho, Victoria Nyanza. UZINJA, | 13 | 4 | 45 | |31 deg. 51' 45"|S. 2 deg. 30' | 3900| -+-------+------------------------------------+--------+-----+-----+----------+-----------+-------------+------+ -| | Carried forward |5294-3/4| | | | | | | -+-------+------------------------------------+--------+-----+-----+----------+-----------+-------------+------+ - -+------------+-------------------------------------------+-----------+-----------+--------+-----------+-------------+------+ -| | |Distance | Time | Rain | | |Above | -| Date. | Name of Place or Camp. | in |occupied in| during | E. Long. | Latitude. | Sea | -| | | Miles. | Hrs.| Min.| Month. | | |Level.| -+------------+-------------------------------------------+-----------+-----+-----+--------+-----------+-------------+------+ -| | | | | | | | | Feet.| -| | RETREAT TO THE SEA--_continued._ | | | | | | | | -| | | | | | | | | | -| 1889. | Brought forward | 5294-3/4 | | | | | | | -| August 20| Itari, Victoria Nyanza | 13-1/2 | 5 | | |31 deg. 54' |S. 2 deg. 37' 30"| | -| 21| Amranda, Victoria Nyanza | 12-1/2 | 4 | 30 | |31 deg. 56' 30"|S. 2 deg. 48' | 3860 | -| 22| Bwanga | 11 | 4 | | |31 deg. 58' 15"|S. 2 deg. 56' | 3960 | -| 23| Uyombi | 18 | 6 | 45 | |32 deg. 12' 15"|S. 3 deg. 0' | 4190 | -| 25| Kamwaga | 12-1/2 | 5 | | |32 deg. 22' 15"|S. 3 deg. 0' | 4560 | -| 26| Umpeke | 13 | 5 | | |32 deg. 30' 45"|S. 3 deg. 2' | 4660 | -| 27| French Mission. USAMBIRO | 15 | 6 | | |32 deg. 42' 45"|S. 2 deg. 59' 15"| 4410 | -| 28|English Mission, Victoria Nyanza (Makolo's)| 13 | 4 | 45 | 15 min.|32 deg. 48' 45"|S. 3 deg. 1' 45"| 4010 | -|September 17| Muzimu, Victoria Nyanza | 7-1/2 | 3 | | | | | | -| 18| Genge, near Victoria Nyanza | 8-1/2 | 3 | 30 | |32 deg. 56' 45"|S. 2 deg. 53' 45"| | -| 19| Kungu, Urima. USUKUMA | 10-1/2 | 4 | | | | | | -| 20| Ikoma, Urima | 8-1/2 | 3 | 30 | | |S. 3 deg. 6' 30"| | -| 21| Muanza, Nera | 9 | 4 | 30 | |33 deg. 16' 15"|S. 3 deg. 12' | | -| 22| Seke, Nera | 13 | 6 | | | | | 4160 | -| 23| Seke Kwikuru | 6-1/2 | 3 | 30 | |33 deg. 28' 30"|S. 3 deg. 24' | 4410 | -| 25| Sinyanga | 12 | 5 | | |33 deg. 25' 45"|S. 3 deg. 31' 30"| 4035 | -| 26| Sinyanga Kwikuru | 3 | 1 | 30 | | | | | -| 27| Kizumbu | 11-1/2 | 4 | 30 | | | | | -| 28| Masari's | 10 | 4 | | |33 deg. 24' 45"|S. 3 deg. 32' 54"| 3810 | -| 29| Usongo N. | 22 | 9 | | | | | 4660 | -| October 1| Usongo Central | 3 | 1 | 30 | |33 deg. 26' |S. 4 deg. 5' | | -| 9| Nyawa | 11 | 4 | 15 | | | | | -| 10| Simgwizi | 8 | 3 | | | | | | -| 11| Mana Tombolo | 11-1/2 | 3 | 45 | | |S. 4 deg. 35' | | -| 13| Camp in Wilderness Water in pits | 11-1/2 | 3 | 45 | | | | | -| 14| " " " | 10 | 3 | 15 | | | | 4110 | -| 15| " " " | 16 | 6 | 15 | | | | 3810 | -| 16| N. Ikungu " | 12 | 4 | 30 | |33 deg. 56' 30"|S. 5 deg. 14' 30"| | -| 17| Ikungu Kwikuru Water in pits | 4 | 1 | 45 | | | | | -| 20| Camp in Wilderness " | 18 | 7 | 10 | | | | | -| 21| " " " | 7-1/2 | 3 | | | |S. 5 deg. 26' | | -| 22| " " " | 6 | 2 | 10 | | | | | -| 23| Makomero (Utaturu) | 15-1/2 | 6 | 15 | | | | | -| 24| Camp in Wilderness | 14 | 5 | 30 | | | | | -| 25| Kapalata | 3 | 1 | 10 | |34 deg. 42' |S. 5 deg. 40' 30"| 4398| -| 26| Muhalala. UGOGO | 12-1/2 | 5 | | | | | 3770| -| 28| Mtiwi (Unyangwira) | 11 | 4 | 15 | | | | 3050| -| 29| Makenge's " | 8 | 3 | 15 | | | | 2900| -| 30| Kitinku " | 5 | 2 | | | | | | -| 31| Camp near Water Pits | 6-1/2 | 2 | 45 | | | | | -| November 1| Magombya | 13-1/2 | 5 | 30 | | | | | -| 2| Camp near Water Pits | 15 | 6 | | | | | 3900| -| 3| Njassa | 10-1/2 | 4 | | | | | 3600| -| 4| Ipala | 7-1/2 | 2 | 45 | | | | | -| 5| Massanga | 10-1/2 | 3 | 45 | | | | 3600| -| 8| Camp near Water Pits Desert | 5 | 2 | | | | | | -| 9| Khambi Usagara | 18 | 6 | 50 | | | | 2900| -| 10| Mpwapwa. GERMAN E. AFRICA. " | 11-1/2 | 4 | 30 | | | | | -| 13| Tubugwe " | 11 | 4 | 15 | | | | 3350| -| 14| Mtoni " | 8 | 3 | 15 | | | | | -| 15| Kidete " | 10 | 4 | 15 | | | | 2400| -| 16| Kirassa " | 9 | 3 | 45 | | | | | -| 17| Muinyi " | 6-1/2 | 2 | 30 | | | | 1900| -| 19| Ferahani " | 14 | 5 | 45 | | | | | -| 20| Waziri Useguhha | 7 | 2 | 30 | | | | 1425| -| 21| Makata River " | 15 | 6 | | | | | | -| 22| Vianzi " | 9 | 3 | 45 | | | | | -| 23| Simbamwenni " | 11-1/2 | 4 | 30 | | | | 1750| -| 25| E. Simbamwenni " | 7 | 2 | 30 | | | | | -+------------+-------------------------------------------+-----------+-----+-----+------ +-----------+-------------+------+ -| | Carried forward |5918-1/4 | | | | | | | -+------------+-------------------------------------------+-----------+-----+-----+------ +-----------+-------------+------+ - -+-------------+-----------------------------------------+---------+-----------+-------+-----------+-------------+-------+ -| | |Distance | Time | Rain | | | Above | -| Date. | Name of Place or Camp. | in |occupied in| during| E. Long. | Latitude. | Sea | -| | | Miles. | Hrs.|Min. | Month.| | | Level.| -+-------------+-----------------------------------------+---------+-----+-----+-------+-----------+-------------+-------+ -| | | | | | | | | Feet. | -| | RETREAT TO THE SEA--_continued_. | | | | | | | | -| | | | | | | | | | -| 1889. | Brought forward | 5918-1/4| | | | | | | -| November 26 | Mikesse Useguhha | 13 | 5 | | | | | | -| 27 | Ungerengeri River " | 14-1/2| 5 | 30 | | | | 500 | -| 28 | Msua " | 17 | 6 | 45 | | | | 350 | -| December 1 | Mbiki | 15 | 6 | | | | | 250 | -| 2 | Mbuyuni | 6-1/2| 2 | 30 | | | | | -| 3 | Kibiro | 12-1/2| 5 | | | | | | -| 4 | Bagamoyo | 10-1/2| 4 | 15 | | | | | -| 6 | Zanzibar Island by Sea | 25 | | | | | | | -+-------------+-----------------------------------------+---------+-----+-----+-------+-----------+-------------+-------+ -| | TOTAL MILES | 6032-1/4| | | | | | | -+-------------+-----------------------------------------+---------+-----+-----+-------+-----------+-------------+-------+ - - -STATEMENT OF THE EMIN PASHA RELIEF FUND. - - RECEIPTS FROM SUBSCRIBERS. L s. d. - Egyptian Government 14,000 0 0 - Sir William Mackinnon, Bart. 3,000 0 0 - Peter Mackinnon, Esq. 1,500 0 0 - Peter Bonny, Esq., of Dumbarton 1,500 0 0 - Baroness Burdett-Coutts 100 0 0 - James Sligo Jameson, Esq. 1,000 0 0 - Countess de Noailles 1,000 0 0 - Gray, Dawes & Co., London 1,500 0 0 - J. Mackinnon, Esq. 450 0 0 - H. T. Younger, Esq., of Benmore 500 0 0 - Duncan MacNeil, Esq. 1,050 0 0 - Alexander L. Bruce, Esq., Edinburgh 750 0 0 - James F. Hutton, Esq., Manchester 250 0 0 - Royal Geographical Society 1,000 0 0 - W. Burdett-Coutts, Esq. 400 0 0 - J. M. Hall, Esq. 375 0 0 - N. MacMichael, Esq. 375 0 0 - J. Siltzer, Esq. 100 0 0 - Sir Thomas Fowell Buxton 250 0 0 - Col. J. A. Grant 100 0 0 - W. P. Alexander, Esq. 250 0 0 - A. F. Walter, Esq., of the _Times_ 500 0 0 - - Received from newspapers on account of letters from H. M. Stanley: - _Daily News_, London L500 0 0 - _Standard_, London 250 0 0 - _Daily Telegraph_, London 200 0 0 - _Manchester Guardian_ 200 0 0 - _Scotsman_, Edinburgh 200 0 0 - --------- 1,350 0 0 - - H. M. Stanley, refund of cash received from Boyts & Co., Suez 597 4 1 - Eastern Telegraph Co., refund of half rates on Zanzibar Telegrams 167 4 6 - Interest on deposits, Ransome & Co. 171 6 4 - Gray, Dawes & Co., refund of Transport 489 0 11 - B. Edgington, refund from bills 5 6 10 - Messrs. S. Allnatt 3 0 0 - Rev. S. Stevenson 2 2 0 - African Trading Company (sale of Stores) 152 12 2 - Gray, Dawes & Co., amount refunded 30 15 2 - Lord Kinnaird 100 0 0 - Sampson Low, Marston, Searle & Rivington, Limited 250 0 0 - ------------- - L33,268 12 0 - ------------- - - EXPENSES. L _s._ _d._ - - Transport and Travelling Expenses 7,202 3 5 - Stores 5,046 8 4 - Expedition Equipment 2,307 15 7 - Wages advanced to Porters 2,027 15 4 - Salaries and Commissions 636 16 8 - Telegrams 518 18 0 - Insurance 30 2 10 - Medical Attendance 96 4 9 - Special Messenger to Khartoum 65 0 0 - Two drafts drawn in Africa for Goods 225 0 0 - Petty expenses in London 97 14 10 - Eastern Telegraph Co 35 4 1 - Printing 1 7 9 - Petty Cash 10 0 0 - Wages of Soudanese (Suez Draft) 1,200 0 0 - Edinburgh Draft 0 5 0 - William Bonny's balance of Salary 242 0 0 - Captain Nelson's Expenses 30 9 4 - Passage, Stairs and Jephson 44 13 6 - Expenses on "Katoria" and "Rewa" 24 11 2 - Smith, Mackenzie & Co.'s Draft for - Payment of Expedition 6,066 18 10 - 1st Donation to Lieut. W. G. Stairs 400 0 0 - " to A. Mounteney Jephson, Esq. 400 0 0 - " to Capt. R. H. Nelson 400 0 0 - " to Surgeon T. H. Parke 400 0 0 - " to William Bonny, Esq. 200 0 0 - ----------------- - L27,709 9 5 - ----------------- - - To contribution to Widows and Orphans - of deceased Zanzibaris 10,000 rupees. - ----------------- - - - - -GENERAL INDEX. - - -Ababua tribe, i. 165; ii. 22, 97. - -Abbate Pasha, i. 58. - -Abdallah Karoni, i. 517-18, 524. - -Abdul Aziz, Sultan of Turkey, i. 443. - -Abdul Hassan Ali and River Nile, ii. 310. - -Abdul Kader Pasha and Emin, i. 444-5. - -Abdul Vaal Effendi, ii. 121. - -Abu Klea, battle of, i. 24. - -Abunguma, i. 298, 302-4, 347. - -Achmet Effendi, ii. 121, 158-9. - -Achmet, the Somali, i. 201. - -Addiguhha, ii. 61; - skull at, 163. - -Aden, i. 59. - -Advance column, memorandum for officers of, i. 129-31; - numbers of, 133. - -_Advance_ steel boat, i. 80, 85, 92, 146, 195-6, 373, 390, 427; - ii. 133-147. - -Africa, dancing, music, and jewels in, i. 436; - ornaments, 477; - Professor Drummond on, ii. 73-4; - Great Central Forest of, 74-5; - in Homer's time, 291-4; - in Ptolemy's, Hekataeus', &c., time, 294-312; - tribes of Central, 384-403. - -_A. I. A._ steamer, i. 77, 120, 516, 527, 532. - -Ajif Mountain, ii. 256. - -Akka tribe of dwarfs, i. 374-5, 385; - ii. 42, 100-109. - -Albert Nyanza Lake, i. 64, 112, 122, 125, 129, 192, 295, 313, 324, 327; - Mason's chart of, 328; - shores of, 339-40, 393. - -Albert Lake, ii. 175; - Emin and, 240-257, 259; - rivers into, 318, 323, 328, 331, 333, 335-7. - -Albert Edward Nyanza, first view of, ii. 290; - rivers into, 317-18, 323, 328-31; - basin of, 335-6; - islands of, 343-4, 346-8, 351, 353; - last view of, 354-7, 360-1. - -_Albuquerque_, s.s., i. 76. - -Alesse, dwarfs of, i. 367. - -Alexandra Nile, _see_ "Nile." - -Ali bin Said, ii. 429. - -Ali Effendi, ii. 226. - -Ali Pasha Moubarek, ii. 304. - -Allen, Mr., i. 26; - and Emin, ii. 470. - -Amadi Station, ii. 242-3. - -Amani (youth), ii. 47-8. - -Amari boy, i. 474. - -Amelot and Stanley Falls Station, i. 70. - -Amiri Falls, i. 204, 476; - ii. 34-6. - -Amranda, ii. 422. - -Andari clearing, ii. 45, 46, 48, 50. - -Anderson, Sir Percy, i. 44, 45, 47. - -Anderson, Sir James, i. 66. - -Andikumu clearing, ii. 53, 54, 59. - -Anditoke, ii. 57. - -Andiuba village, ii. 61. - -Anduta, ii. 53, 54. - -Ankori, ii. 314, 343-4, 351; - route, 360-7, 371-2; - climate of, 376-7, 380; - cattle of, 393, 404-5, 411. - -Antari, King of Ankori, ii. 359-61, 365; - mother of, 366-7, 372-3, 379. - -Antelope, i. 218. - -Ants, i. 150; - at Fort Bodo, 356-7, 469; - in forest, 479-80. - -Arabs, _see_ "Kilonga Longa," "Manyuema," and "Ugarrowwa." - -Arab legends about the River Nile, ii. 303-12. - -Arms--poisoned skewers, i. 139, 142, 374, 469, 477; - ii. 78; - assegais and arrows, i. 140; - poisoned arrows, i. 173, 179-81, 190-1; - ii. 27-8, 33, 79, 101-8, 116; - a strange arrow, i. 285; - weapons of the edge of the forest, i. 297; - ii. 264; - barrel of carbine at Usiri, i. 435; - of Ababua tribe, ii. 22; - tribes of the forest, 98; - weapons of Balegga and Wahuma, ii. 399-401. - -Arthington, Robert, and the steamer _Peace_, i. 47. - -Aruwimi River, i. 108, 110; - ii. 32, 75; - banks of, i. 150; ii. 82-3; - (called Lui River), i. 154; - (called Luhali River), 155-6; - bed of, 159; - paddles of natives by the, 160-1, 193; - (called the Nevva), 184, 192; - large island in, 491; - _see_ also "Ituri River;" - source of, ii. 94-7. - -Ashe, Rev. R. P., ii. 380, 444. - -Asmani, of Muscati, ii. 208. - -Asmani, Wadi, i. 227-28. - -Ass, Zanzibar, i. 205, 230-1. - -Assad Farran, i. 528-9. - -Aturo River, ii. 252. - -Avaiyabu, ii. 34. - -Avakubi Rapids, i. 201-2. - -Avamberri (or Avamburi), i. 477; - ii. 34. - -Avatiko, i. 217; - ii. 35-6, 40, 44. - -Avejeli tribe, villages of, i. 193-5, 209, 479, 481; - ii. 29. - -Avisibba, i. 173-4, 178; - ii. 28; - head-dress of, i. 178, 481-2; - arrows of, ii. 108. - -Avugadu rapids, i. 192-3, 481; - ii. 28. - -Awamba, ii. 261, 270-1; - forest, 274, 281-3, 285-6. - -Awash Effendi, Major, i. 423; - ii. 162, 178, 184, 220, 234, 243. - -Ayoub Effendi, ii. 223. - -Azra Effendi, ii. 234. - - -Babali tribe, i. 143. - -Babanda tribe, i. 143. - -Babandi tribe, ii. 34. - -Babe tribe, i. 159. - -Babesse, i. 377. - -Ba-biassi tribe, i. 386, 389. - -Babisa tribe, ii. 386. - -Babukwa tribe, i. 143. - -Babunda natives, i. 206. - -Baburu tribes, i. 114, 154-5, 280, 535; - ii. 97, 111. - -Babusesse, i. 298; - ii. 97; - language, 490; - hut construction, i. 298-9; - natives, 303, 342, 348. - -Badzwa village, i. 394, 428; - road towards, 424, 426. - -Baert, Mons., of the Congo State, i. 519, 543. - -Bafaido cataract, i. 201-2, 477-8; - ii. 34. - -Bagamoyo, French Mission, ii. 448-453; - arrival and dinner at, 453-461; - Emin's accident at, 461-2, 471. - -Bahunga village, i. 141. - -Bakandi tribe, i. 289. - -Baker, Sir Samuel, i. 12, 13, 17; - and Albert Nyanza, 328; - and Unyoro plateau, 400, 412; - and Ruwenzori, 430; - ii. 314. - -Bakhit Bey's cattle-raids, i. 423. - -Baki Kundi, ii. 263. - -Bakiokwa language, ii. 490. - -Bakoka, villages of, i. 151. - -Bakokoro village, ii. 275; - Ruwenzori from, 325-6. - -Bakuba territory, i. 376; - ii. 118. - -Bakula, i. 152-55, 158, 161. - -Bakumu tribe, ii. 97. - -Bakusu tribe, i. 204, 207, 238, 510; - ii. 26. - -Bakuti, villages of, i. 150. - -Bakwuru, villages of the, i. 283; - ii. 116. - -Balegga tribe, i. 238, 324, 346, 389; - ii. 129, 159, 170, 176, 210, 250, 391; - chief of Eastern, i. 393; - country, 321; - musical instruments of, ii. 399. - -Balegga Hills, i. 346, 386; - ii. 163, 174-5, 190, 252, 316-8, 403; - raid on villages, i. 346, 386. - -Balesse, country of, i. 255-6; - clearings of, 257; - chief of, 267; - manners and customs, 278-9, 360; - tribe, ii. 97, 100. - -Balia village, i. 474; - tribe, ii. 42. - -Balunda tribe, ii. 386. - -Balungwa, ii. 390. - -Bambi, Chief, i. 155. - -Banalya, tribe, i. 153, 155; - curve, 492; - arrival at, 493-97, 517-26, 534-47; - rear column, ii. 11-12, 58, 115, 125, 232. - -Banana Point, i. 75, 79; - ii. 15, 32. - -Bandangi village, i. 153; - islands near, 154. - -Bandekiya village, i. 485. - -Bandeya, i. 165, 474, 485, 487. - -Bandussuma, i. 436; - ii. 114, 250. - -Bangala Station, i. 107-8, 502, 510, 515; - ii. 15, 34; - tribe, 84, 91, 97. - -Bantu, the term, ii. 384-5. - -Banyoro, ii. 430. - -Banza Manteka, i. 85. - -Banzanza tribe, i. 289. - -Banzombe village, ii. 275. - -Bapai (or Bavaiya), i. 206; - fishermen, 482. - -Baptist Mission, i. 86. - -Barghash, Sultan of Zanzibar, _see_ "Seyyid Barghash." - -Bari tribe, ii. 133. - -Baring, Sir Evelyn, ii. 128; - and Hicks Pasha, i. 16; - and General Gordon, 20-1, 22, 46; - conversation regarding route at Cairo, 49-51, 56, 58. - -Barttelot, Major, ii. 2; - Preface, i. 5-7; - and Tippu-Tib, ii. 17-20; - engaged for the relief staff, i. 42; - at Aden, 59; - sketch of, 73; - and Soudanese, 88; - and s.s. _Peace_, 92-4; - and s.s. _Stanley_, 95; - orders to and duties of, 97-8, 103, 105; - selected for command of the rear column, 105-6; - to proceed to Stanley Falls, 108, 115-16; - letter of instructions to, 117-19; - conversation with--referring to Tippu-Tib, 119-28; - at Yambuya, 128; - blood-brother with a Yambuya chief, 132; - farewell to, 136, 209; - weight of, ii. 190, 470-1; - return to assistance of, i. 344, 351; - couriers sent to, 364, 366, 370, 372, 380, 422; - Lieut. Stairs and, 463-5; - descriptive letter to, from Surgeon Parke, 490, 494; - and sad story of the rear column, 498-526; - report of, 527-8; - log of rear column, 533-47. - -Barua tribe, ii. 386. - -Baruti (black boy), i. 48; - at Suez, 58; - and brother, 108-10. - -Barzah House, the, ii. 148-156; - and Mpigwa at, 395-6. - -Basoga tribe, ii. 399. - -Basoko tribe, ii. 97; - villages, i. 108-10. - -Basongora tribe, i. 204, 207, 238, 510. - -Basopo Cataract, i. 235, 269, 478; - rapids, ii. 30. - -Batomba tribe, ii. 97. - -Bats, army of, i. 481. - -Batundu natives, i. 491; - settlement, ii. 20, 34. - -Batwa dwarfs, ii. 42, 100-9. - -Baundwe, forest aborigines, ii. 263. - -Bavabya, ii. 1-2. - -Bavikai rapids, i. 479; - village, ii. 31-3. - -Bavira, villages and chief, i. 320-1, 324, 346, 380, 384-5; - and Wahuma, 385; - huts of, 389; - tribe, ii. 129; - women, 130, 208, 391; - language, 490. - -Bazungu tribe, ii. 100-109. - -Beatrice Gulf, ii. 347, 349. - -Becker, Lieutenant, ii. 474. - -Bedden Station, ii. 122, 133, 243. - -Bees, i. 143-4. - -Bemberri, i. 386. - -Bembezi Ford, i. 84. - -Bentley, Rev. Mr., and s.s. _Peace_, i. 86, 90-1, 92-4. - -Berber, i. 412, 415. - -Besse, ii. 118; - village, i. 377, 378; - skirmish of, 424, 453. - -Bevwa, Chief of Wakonju, ii. 344-5, 351, 366. - -Beyts, Captain (agent B.I.S.N. Co.), i. 58. - -Bible, reading the, i. 311-2. - -Big Cataract, ii. 40. - -Bilal, ii. 197. - -Billington, Mr., and s.s. _Henry Reed_, i. 86, 90, 92-4. - -Binnie, Mr., and Stanley Falls Station, i. 65. - -Binza (Dr. Junker's boy), i. 90, 194, 427; ii. 126, 127, 137. - -Birds, _see_ "Ornithology." - -Blood-brotherhood, with a Yambuya chief, i. 132; - with Ismaili, 253-4; - with Mazamboni, 382-3; - with Uchunku, ii. 378-9. - -Bolobo, i. 103, 105, 111; ii. 6, 9, 10; - contingent at, i. 133. - -Boma, i. 76; ii. 32. - -Bonny, Wm., Preface, i. 4, 5-7; - engaged for the relief staff, 41; - and Baruti, 48; - at Suez, 58; - Soudanese and Zanzibaris, 73; - sketch of, 74; - orders to, and duties of, 97-8; - and rear column, 106, 372, 380; - meeting with, at Banalya, 493-497; - and sad story of the rear column, 501, 526; - official written narrative, 512-19; - report and log of rear column, 527-47; - action of, ii. 1-2, 12, 13, 16, 17, 30; - and dwarfs, 40, 54, 59-60, 63, 66, 155-6; - note from, 157, 161-2, 259-60, 275, 276, 376, 479. - -Bora Station, ii. 133. - -Borchgrave, Comte de, i. 44, 45. - -Boryo (chief of Balesse), i. 267-8, 271, 274, 276-7, 282, 349, 351. - -Botany, i, 229-31; - raphia palms, 453; - of the forest, ii. 44-5; - Emin and, 238; - musa plants, &c., 46; - flora on Ruwenzori, 277-80; - manioc, 5-11; - phrynia, 22, 45, 63, 77, 83-5, 109; - tobacco leaves, 24, 269; - palms, 34, 79, 87, 264, 281, 341-2, 351; - wood beans, &c., 50, 61, 109; - ferns, 54, 175, 281; - flora, &c., of African forest, 75-7; - of the clearings, 83-4; - epiphytes, 76-7; - flora of Balegga Hills, 175; - Awamba Forest and Semliki Valley, 318-23, 335-7; - spear grasses, 265; - of the plain, 338-9, 351; - acacia, 274, 336, 351, 421; - beans, &c., 39, 78, 250, 269, 289; - mushrooms, 64; - makweme, 109; - Indian corn, &c., 354; - euphorbia, 337-9, 351, 421; - papyrus, 372; - thistles, 377; - baobab, 444. - -Brackenbury, Captain of H.M.S. _Turquoise_, ii. 457, 462. - -Brackenbury, General, i. 48. - -British Congo Company's Steamers, i. 75-6. - -British East African Company, ii. 430, 453; - and Emin, 467, 472. - -British Government, and Emin's Province, i. 417. - -Bruce, Alex. L., i. 35. - -Buganda, ii. 430. - -Bugombi natives, ii. 174, 395. - -Bukanda, village, i. 146-149. - -Bukiri (or Myyulu's), i. 258. - -Bukoko, ii. 270, 272, 274, 328. - -Bukumbi, French missionaries at, ii. 368-9, 371, 428. - -Bumbire, i. 223. - -Bunda, ii. 37. - -Bundegunda village, ii. 223, 250; - crops at, 252. - -Bundi, i. 206, 393, 433. - -Bungangeta, villages, i. 155. - -Bungangeta, island, i. 492; ii. 12, 15-16, 34. - -Bunyambiri village, ii. 223. - -Burdett Coutts, Baroness and W., i. 35, 46. - -Burroughs and Welcome, i. 38. - -Buruli, ii. 347, 349-50. - -Bushiri, ii. 449. - -Busindi, i. 255. - -Butahu River, ii. 284, 318. - -Butama, ii. 270. - -Butterflies at Katwe, ii. 343. - -Buxton, Sir Thomas F., i. 35. - -Bwamburi, villages of, i. 165; ii. 22. - -Bwanga village, ii. 422. - -Bwessa, chief of, i. 384, 441. - - -CABOT'S (SEBASTIAN) map of Africa, ii. 298-9. - -Camps, _see_ "Itinerary" in Appendix, ii. 496-512. - -Canoe accidents, ii. 16, 24, 28, 30. - -Cape Town, i. 74. - -Casati, Captain, i. 118, 334, 396; ii. 125-6, 128, 138, 144, 147, 155-7, 160, 162; - and Monbuttu, i. 400, 419; - and return to the Coast, 406; - experiences in Unyoro, 407-9; - and Emin, 419; ii. 186-9, 191, 200, 207-8, 244-5; - servant, 255, 276; - and cattle raids, 338; - illness of, 371, 376; - Emin and, 409-10, 479. - -Castor Oil Plant, i. 291. - -Casualties and desertions, ii. 20, 22, 26-8, 33, 35, 47-9, 50, 53, 57, 61, 65, 116, 259, 281. - -Cataracts, rapids, falls, &c., _see_ Amiri, Bafaido, Basopo, Mabengu, Mariri, Panga, Nejambi, Wasps, &c. - -Cattle, of the Dinka tribe, i. 450; - raids, 423-4; ii. 246; - Rukara's, 289-90, 350; - raids of Wasongora, 338, 347, 372. - -Chai river, ii. 252, 257. - -Chama Issa, ii. 57-8. - -Chamlirikwa, ii. 353. - -Charters, Mr. David, and s.s. _Peace_, i. 102; - and repair of s.s. _Stanley_, 103-4, 115. - -Cherif Pasha, i. 16. - -Chimpanzees, or "soko," i. 262; - in forest of Msongwa, 449. - _See_ "Zoology." - -Chongo, camp at, i. 441. - -Chowambi, ii. 392. - -Christian Mission Society, ii. 380. - -Chumbiri, and s.s. _Stanley_, i. 103. - -Clarke, Mr., of the L. I. Mission, i. 83. - -Clearings, ii. 46, 80-4; - of dwarfs, 101. - _See_ "Andaki." - -Congo-la-Lemba, i. 84-5. - -Congo Railway, ii. 110-11. - -Congo River, work on the, i. 19-20; - the Congo route for Emin's relief, 33, 34, 43-5, 75, 77, 78; - Upper, scenery, 99-101; - miniature Congo canyon, 219; - raiders in Upper Basin, 238; - ague and, ii. 32, 75; - banks of, 82-3. - -Congo Free State, and Tippu-Tib, i. 121; - and Emin, 411; - compared to Soudan, 414-15. - -Congo Mission Stations, ii. 433, 449; - State, 247; - Emin and, 468. - -Congratulations by cable received at Zanzibar, ii. 481-8. - -Constable's map of Africa, ii. 300-1. - -Consul of Zanzibar, ii. 18, 474, 477. - -Cross roads camp, ii. 115-16. - - -D'Abren, Senor J. F., i. 79. - -Daly, Judge, work on Africa, ii. 294. - -Dawnay, Hon. Guy, i. 46, 50. - -Deakes, Mr., ii. 429. - -Deane, Captain, and Stanley Falls Station, i. 65, 70, 72, 107, 120, 520. - -Denny, Peter, i. 35. - -Denny range, ii. 362, 365, 367, 371-2. - -Dessauer, Monsieur, i. 87. - -Dinka tribe, and their cattle, i. 450; - and snakes, 450. - -Diseases, ii. 6, 29, 34, 53, 61, 114, 158, 268, 376, 412; - ulcers through poisoned skewer, i. 151; - of the Madi carriers, 479; - small-pox, ii. 20, 24, 28, 29, 31, 34-5; - wounds from poisoned arrows, 27-8; - pustules, 30; - guinea worms, 110; - malaria, 31-3; - variola, 110. - -Domestic animals of the Dwarfs, ii. 110. - -Donagla. _See_ "Mahdi." - -Drummond, Professor, on Africa, ii. 73-4. - -Dualla, Somali, i. 455, 456. - -Duffle Station, ii. 132-7; - troops at, i. 405. - -Dui River, ii. 58-60. - -Duki Mountain, ii. 390-1. - -Dwarfs, first specimen of the tribe of, i. 207-8; - first village of, 261; - camp, 265; ii. 79, 263; - dwellings of, 103-4; - village of, i. 278, 374; - camp of, near Fort Bodo, 356; - a Queen of, 367-8; - colour of, 374; - features of, 375; - measurement and colour of, ii. 40-2, 164, 167; - conversation by gesture, 42-4; - woman, 44; - woodcraft of, 44, 49-50; - and ammunition, 53-4, 61-2; - tribe of, 100-9; - at Fort Bodo, 113; - the opposite of the Wahuma, 384-5; - damsel and boy, 410. - - -East African Association's offer to Emin Pasha, i. 411-12. - -Eastern Telegraph Company, i. 66. - -Edgington, J. and Company, i. 38. - -Edrisi and Central Africa, ii. 295-6, 305-6. - -Edwin Arnold Mountain, ii. 353, 367. - -Egypt, and England, i. 11, 12, 15; - and the Soudan, 12; - Ministry and Gordon, 21; - Egyptian Government, Relief Fund, 35; - Government and Emin's ivory, 52; - and Equatorial Provinces, 401, 410-17; - and Emin Pasha, ii. 232; - Egyptian Government in the Soudan, 247. - -Egyptians, ii. 141; - officers, 170, 173; - muster of, and Soudanese, 198-206, 208, 214-16, 231; - Emperor Hadrian and, 240, 252, 255, 265-6, 352, 371, 376, 377. - -El-del Station, ii. 241. - -Elephant Playground Camp, i. 491; ii. 22. - -Elephants at Memberri, i. 204; - at Ituri, 213; - bones of, at Lake Albert, 339; - troops of, 359; - spear, 376. - -Elliot, Captain Grant, i. 39-40. - -Emin Pasha, Preface, i. 7-9; - and General Gordon, 19; - birth and early days, 18-19, 442-3; - letters to Mr. Mackay, 25-6; - letter to Mr. C. H. Allen, 26; - letter to Dr. Felkin, 26-7; - his views, 28; - letters relating to Emin from Messrs. Mackay, Holmwood, &c., 29-31; - ----'s troops, 31, 54-6; - estimated and actual time occupied for relief of, 36; - and store of ivory, 52, 64; - High Order from the Khedive to, 56-8; - Stanley's letter to, 62-3; - ivory and Tippu-Tib, 71; - false report of Emin Pasha's arrival, 196, 199; - and Dr. Junker _re_ Lake Albert, 333; - no news of, 362-3; - second attempt to find, 373; - first news of "Malleju" or the "Bearded One," 379, 381, 386; - "Malleju's" letter, 389-90; - at Kavalli camp, 396; - description of, 396; - Drs. Felkin and Junker's description of, 400; - and Monbuttu, 400; - and Kabba Rega, 401; - conversation about leaving the province, 401-6; - brings provisions, 408; - and Captain Casati, 408; - conversation between Stanley and, relating to Equatorial Province, 410-17; - and Casati, 419; - and Lake Ibrahim, 419; - presents of clothing by, 422; - Emin Pasha's officers, 423; - and cattle-raids, 423-4; - and use of the sextant, 425, 426; - good-bye to, 428-9; - and Ruwenzori, 430, 432; - two letters from, 431-2; - and Unyoro, 432-3; - and General Gordon, 443-4; - and Mackay's library, 445; - Emin Pasha's abilities, capacity, and industry, 445-7; - some of Emin Pasha's troubles, 447-9; - and natural history, 449-51; - and malaria, ii. 33, 59; - and insects, 91; - news of, 118-19; - three letters from, 120-1; - Jephson and, 121-4, 124-7; - Stanley's letter to, 128-9; - Jephson and, 131-8, 140-4; - letter from, 144-5, 147-8; - officers, 151, 155; - baggage, 158; - daughter, 160; - as naturalist, 160-7, 174-5; - and Shukri Agha, 174, 176; - and Selim Bey, 176-81; - Osman Latif Effendi and, 183-4; - and Captain Casati, 186-9, 191, 207-8, 213, 409-10; - weight of, 190; - illness of, 352, 371, 376; - and Mohammed Effendi's wife, 192-7; - and Stanley, 198-206; - followers, 204-5; - and Wadelai mails, 216, 226; - a study of his province, 228-49; - and troops, 267-8; - and Ruwenzori, 276, 314; - muster-roll, 353; - Pere Schintze and, 445; - and Peres of French Mission, 448-9; - at Bagamoyo, 454, 457; - the dinner and accident to, 458-62; - Stanley and, 465-6, 468-73; - and German Government, 466-8, 479-80. - -Emin Pasha Relief Committee, telegram from, i. 507, 514-15; - report to, 527-34; ii. 13, 128, 177, 471; - and Jaffar Tarya, 477. - -Emin Pasha Relief Expedition, ii. muster of, 14, 115, 155; - at Kavalli, 210. - -Emin Pasha Relief Fund, ii. 474; - statement of receipts and expenses, 513-14. - -_En Avant_, s.s., i. 77, 85, 90, 525. - -England's work in Africa, i. 69. - -Engwedde tribe, i. 170, 173, 174, 482; ii. 24; - rapids, 28; - rain at, 94; - captives of, 100. - -Entomology: - Insects and flies, i. 152, 359; - of the great African forest, 479-80; ii. 90-3; - fleas of Ibwiri, i. 270; - mosquitoes, gnats, &c., of Upper Congo, 101; - at Fort Bodo, 356-7; - Emin and, ii. 267-8; - jiggers, 3, 92; - ants, i. 150, 357-8, 469, 479-80; ii. 39, 75-6, 78, 84, 91, 92; - dried ants for poison, 108; - white ants, 110; - black mosquitoes, 415; - moths, cloud of, 33; - wasps, 35; - and bees, 39, 76, 84, 90-2; - beetles, 91, 92, 393; - gnats, pest of, 261; - butterflies at Katwe, 343. - -Epeni brook, ii. 44. - -Equatorial Province, i. 410-17; - stations in, 418; - rebellion in, ii. 121-4; - Jephson's report of, 131-7, 143-4; - officers of, 151-6, 160, 176-7, 179-81, 188, 213, 223-6; - history of, 231-49, 261. - -Equator Station, i. 85, 107, 115. - -Ethnology, i. 385; - forest tribes, ii. 88-9, 97-104; - of Central and South Africa, 384-9. - -Etienne, Pere, ii. 457, 459. - -Express rifles, i. 213. - - -FABBO Station, ii. 133-4. - -Fadl el Mulla Aga, ii. 132, 134, 160, 178, 183, 188, 224-6, 246. - -Fane, Mr., i. 52. - -Farag Pasha, i. 24. - -Farishi Station, i. 455, 456. - -Farjalla, the slave of, i. 212-13. - -Fathel Mullah, ii. 416-17. - -Felkin, Dr. R. W., missionary, ii. 268, 380, 470; - letter from Emin Bey, i. 26-7; - route for Emin's relief, 31; - description of Emin, 400. - -Ferahani, ii. 447-8. - -Ferajji, headman, ii. 4-7, 27. - -Ferida, Emin's daughter, ii. 160; - the nurse of, 192, 194-5. - -Ferney, Mr. Lafontaine, i. 75. - -Feruzi, i. 228; - and the bush antelope, ii. 25-6. - -Fetteh (of Unyoro), i. 312-14, 377. - -Fights of Expedition, _see_ Avisibba, Mazamboni, &c.; - with the Balegga, ii. 129; - with Wara Sura, 255, 260, 349-50, 352; - with Wasakuma, 436-8. - -Fischer, Dr., and relief of Junker, i. 29, 30; - and Emin, 30, 35. - -Fish in Lake Urigi, ii. 415. - -_Florida_, s.s., shaft, i. 84; - launching of, 95-6; - departure for Yambuya, 101-7, 462-3. - -Foreign Office, despatches, i. 417; - and Emin, ii. 466-7. - -Forests: - of the Upper Congo river, i. 99-101; - our mode of marching through, 135-8; - 160 days in the, 138; - slow progress through the, 144, 229-30; - a forest tempest, 144-5, 233; - abandoned clearings, 222; - our food in the, 222-3; - beans, 225; - pears, 226; - limit of the great, 281; - woods, 284, 357; - forest-craft, 374; - of Msongwa, 449; - clearings, 474-5; - evils of forest marching, 479-80; - Forest, Great Central African, description of, ii. 74-111; - Awamba, 262, 269-70. - Table of--and Grass-land languages. _See_ Appendix. - -Forrest & Son, and steel boat, i. 38, 77. - -Fort Bodo, i. 349; ii. 15, 57, 59, 72, 104-7, 112-15, 124-5, 232, 470; - construction of, i. 351-2; - stockade of, 352-3; - officers' house at, 354-5; - garrison of, 354; - road construction at, 349; - distance from Ipoto, 363; - cornfields at, 369-70, 456-7; - labour about, 370-1; - roads from, 371; - life at, 371-2; - arrival at, 453; - condition of garrison at, 456-7; - state of, 459-60; - improvements to be made in, 466; - departure from, 468; - progress from, 491. - -Fort Island, near Panga Falls, i. 171; ii. 26. - -Fortnum & Mason, i. 39. - -Foss, Captain, ii. 462, 473. - -France, territory in West Africa, i. 69, - and East Africa, 77. - -Francqui, Mons., i. 87. - -Fraser, Commander T. M., ii. 457. - -French missionaries at Usambiro, ii. 422, 428; - at Bukumbi, 433-4, 444; - tributes of, 443, 445, 447; - Emin and, 448-9. - -Fruit: fenessi, i. 225, 229; ii. 109; - plantains and bananas, i. 266, 299, 476; ii. 10, 20, 28, 31, 36, 39, 43, 45, 53, 59, 61, 62, 78-9, 97, 261-2, 275-6, 417; - wild oranges and mango-trees, 29; - figs, 29, 110; - fig-tree, 34, 83; - wild fruit of the forest, 88, 109-10; - melons, &c., 328; - blackberries, 371, 377. - -Fundi, ii. 69. - - -Gaddo (the lake pilot), ii. 402. - -Game in the forest, ii. 88-9. - -Gavira, chief of Bavira (_see_ "Mpigwa"), i. 320, 384, 386, 388, 390, 434-5; ii. 119, 391-2. - -Genge, ii. 434. - -Geology: - Forest at Andari, ii. 50; - at Andikumu, 57; - of river beds, 274; - bed of Semliki River, 286; - bed of Albert Edward Nyanza, 335-6. - -German Government and Emin, ii. 438-42, 472-3. - -Germans at Mpwapwa, ii. 430-1, 446; - and coast Arabs, 446; - and Ugogo, 446; - at Bagamoyo, 457-61. - -Germany and territory east of Zanzibar, i. 68-9, 77. - -Gessi Pasha, i. 14, 430, 444; ii. 141; - and Ruwenzori, 314. - -Giegler Pasha, i. 58. - -Girault, Pere, ii. 445. - -Gladstone, Mr., i. 16, 23, 240. - -Glave, at Equator Station, i. 85, 107. - -Gleerup, Mr., and Stanley Falls Station, i. 70. - -Goats, ii. 15, 24, 28, 39, 58, 61, 97; - of Wara Sura, 350; - and fowls of Nepanga, i. 169. - -Goods of the Expedition, i. 37-9, 547; ii. 155. - -Gondokoro, i. 412. - - -Gordon, General, and the slave trade, i. 14, 17; - and the Upper Soudan, 17-19; - and the Congo River, 20; - and Khartoum, 20-25, 404, 427; - at Khartoum, ii. 141; - death, i. 24; - Nubar Pasha and, 52, 240, 412; - and Lake Ibrahim, 419; - and Emin Pasha, 27, 443-4. - -Gordon, Rev. Cyril, ii. 380, 424, 429. - -Gordon-Bennett, Mr. J., ii. 450. - -Gordon-Bennett Mountain, ii. 315, 317; - cove, 367. - -Grant, Capt., i. 12. - -Grant, Col. J. A., i. 45-7; - and Baruti, 48, 50; - and Mtesa, ii. 411, 412. - -Granville, Lord, and the Soudan, i. 16; - and General Gordon, 20-2. - -Grass-land and Forest languages, comparative table of. _See_ Appendix. - -Gravenreuth, Baron von, ii. 450. - -Gray, Dawes & Co., i. 35, 46, 48. - -Grenfell, General, i. 56, 58. - -Grenfell, Mr., and Mobangi River, i. 107. - -Grenfell, Sir Francis, ii. 248-9. - -Greshoff, Mr. A., i. 96, 399, 462-3. - -Gunda village, i. 441. - -Gwengwere, rapids and villages, i. 151, 152. - - -Hailallah, ii. 118. - -Hajji, Zanzibari, ii. 209. - -Hall, Jas., i. 35. - -Hamdan, Egyptian soldier, ii. 263, 265. - -Hamed bin Ibrahim, ii. 411. - -Hamid Aga, ii. 131. - - -Hannington, Bishop, i. 53; - murder of, ii. 359, 370, 380-1. - -Hassan, our cook, i. 474. - -Hassan, Bakari, ii. 169. - -Hassan, Vita, apothecary, i. 399, 424. - -Hassan, Dr., ii. 473. - -Hekataeus, ii. 41, and Africa, 294. - -_Henry Reed_, mission steamer, i. 76-7, 85, 86, 90; - Jephson and, 93, 95; - departure for Yambuya, 101-7, 115-16. - -_Heron_, steamer, i. 76, 79. - -Hicks Pasha, i. 14-17; - Army, ii. 241. - -Hilallah, boy, i. 261. - -Hipparchus' map of Africa, ii. 294-5, 300. - -Hippo Broads, ii. 33; - camp, i. 201, 478. - -Hippopotami, i. 101, 104, 201; - bones of, 339. - -Hirschberg, Capt., ii. 462, 473. - -Holmwood, Consul-General F., and Emin, i. 28-9; - despatch to Foreign Office, Sept., 1886, 29-30; 60, 71, 531-2. - -Homer's time, Africa in, ii. 291-4, 300, - and Nile, 302. - -Hot springs, ii. 282; - near Iwanda, 350; - Mtagata, 406, 410. - -Houssas, i. 91, 107. - -Hutton, Mr. James F., i. 31, 35. - - -Ibina River, i. 207, 246. - -Ibrahim Effendi Elham, ii. 217. - -Ibrahim, Lake (or Gita Nzige), i. 419. - -Ibwiri, village of, i. 265-70; ii. 30, 48; - clearing of, 53, 103; - fleas of, i. 270, 274-5, 303, 337-8, 350-1. - -Iddesleigh, Lord, and Uganda route, i. 45; - death of, 46; - despatches furnished by, 417. - -Ihangiro, ii. 387-8, 414, 418. - -Ihuru River, i. 207, 219, 263; ii. 43, 47, 49, 54, 58, 61, 63, 69, 72. - -Ikoma, ii. 434-5. - -Ikungu, ii. 445-6. - -Ikuta Island, ii. 418. - -Indekaru, villages of East and West, i. 263, 265, 367-8, 375, 468. - -Indemau, ii. 58-60. - -Indemwani village, i. 277, 349, 374. - -Indenduru, villages of East and West, i. 277-9, 453; - West and Central, ii. 116. - -Indeperri, ii. 59. - -Indepessu, i. 280, 375. - -Indepuya, natives of, i. 374. - -Indesura, i. 286, 290-2, 349. - -Indetonga camp, i. 349. - -Ingham and Congo carriers, i. 47, 80. - -Inkissi River, i. 89. - -Ipoto, settlement of, i. 219, 234-5; ii. 103, 273; - ivory hunters at, i. 236-41, 364, 469-70. - -Irangara Island, ii. 347. - -Islands, _see_ Bungangeta, Fort, Ikuta, Kakuri, Kasenya, Mysome, Nepanga, Rumondo, &c. - -Ismail, the Khedive of Egypt, i. 12-14; - and Gordon, 19. - -Ismail Hakki Pasha and E. Schnitzler, i. 18, 442. - -Ismaili, chief, i. 238, 249-54, 261, 361. - -Itari, ii. 418-21. - -Itinerary of Journeys made in 1887, 1888, 1889; ii. 496-512. - -Itiri settlement, i. 184-7; ii. 28. - -Ituri River, i. 53, 207, 213, 216-17, 219-21, 223, 282, 289, 291-2, 301-2, 304, 306, 319, 320, 347-8, 376, 393, 453, 466, 470-1, 476; - twin peak near, 431; ii. 26, 30, 38, 39-40; - source of, 94-7; 115, 125, 145; - Emin and, 240; valley, 281; - tributaries of, 252, 273, 393; - _see_ also Aruwimi River. - -Ivory, ii. 107, 146; - Emin's, 183, 240; - gift to Mazamboni, 223; - at Katwe, 342; - _see_ Emin Pasha, Ipoto, &c., i. - -Iwanda, ii. 350, 366, 371-2. - -Iyugu village, i. 283, 349. - - -Jabu (our cook), ii. 26. - -Jaffar, son of Tarya Topan, i. 60; ii. 474-7. - -Jameson, James S., Preface, i. 5-7, 36; - engaged for the relief staff, 43, 58; - sketch of, 74; - and hippopotami, 93; - orders to, and duties of, 97-8; - selected for second in command of rear column, 106; - letter of instructions to, 117-19, 128; - farewell to, 136; - and butterflies, 150, 372, 380, 494; - and sad story of the rear column, 500-26; - report and log of rear column, 527-47; - mention of, ii. 12, 13, 15-66; - box, 30, 182-3. - -Jephson, A. J. Mounteney (_Buburika_), Preface, i. 7-9; - engaged for the relief staff, 43; - departure of, 48; - Soudanese and Zanzibaris, 73; - sketch of, 73; - and steel boat, 85; - and Congo, 89; - and Salim, 89-90; - and steamer _Peace_, 92-4; - orders to, and duties of, 97-8; - at Yambuya, 128; - memorandum for advance column officers, 129-31, 146, 149, 161-2, 180, 182-4, 192, 224-5; - fanciful menus, 226-28, 232; - report of Nelson's relief, 248-9, 272, 471; - and Mazamboni's people, 315-17; - and Katonza's, 224-5, 347; - at Fort Bodo, 354, 367; - and blood-brotherhood with Mazamboni, 382-3; - and steel boat, 390; - conveys letter to Emin Pasha, 391-2; - note from, 395; - at Kavalli, 396, 410, 422, 427; - Message for Emin's troops, 427-8, 430-1; - and Fort Bodo, 466; ii. 28, 31-2, 113-15, 117-19; - and Emin, 120-1, 138; - letters from, 121-4; - Stanley's letter to, 124-8; - return of, 130-1; - report of the revolt in the Equatorial Province, 131-7, 141, 145; - letter from, 146-7, 162, 167; - and Balegga Hills, 175, 176, 178, 179-83; - weight of, 190, 201-18; - illness of, 216, 257, 260, 275, 352, 371; - and Emin, 233, 237, 248, 276; - and Gaddo, 402, 479. - -Jordan's Nullah, ii. 438. - -Juma, i. 243-4, 249, 454, 478-9; - son of Nassib, 487-8. - -Juma, Hussein bin, ii. 27-8. - -Juma, Ali, ii. 114. - -Juma Waziri, i. 291. - -Junker, Dr., ii. 151, 183, 229, 232; - and Emin, i. 29-31, 54, 58, 77, 400, 402; ii. 244-5, 268, 470; - and Congo route, i. 50, 52-4; - and Emin's troops, 55; - and Emin's ivory, 64, 71; - and Nepoko River, 193; - and Monbuttu, 400; - letter from, 447. - - -Kabba Rega, i. 332; ii. 129, 147, 157, 159, 191, 239, 244-5, 255, 270-1, 338; - and Katwe, 344-5, 352, 382; - father of, 392, 430; - and Komubi, i. 393-4; - and Emin, 401, 431; - and Capt. Casati, 507-8; - and Katonza, 425; - and Musiri, 435-6. - -Kabindas, party of, i. 84, 91. - -_Kacongo_ gunboat, i. 79. - -Kadongo's village, i. 433-4; ii. 391. - -Kafur River, ii. 432. - -Kafurro settlement, ii. 373, 411-13. - -Kaibuga, chief, ii. 255, 258, 268. - -Kaiyura's settlement, ii. 346-7. - -Kajumba, chief, ii. 417-18. - -Kakoko, ii. 411, 429. - -Kakonya, ii. 351-2. - -Kakuri, chief, ii. 284, 344-6. - -Kakuri Island, ii. 346, 353, 354, 366. - -Kakwa Hill, ii. 54. - -Kalema, ii. 430. - -Kalenge, Katto's cousin, i. 437; ii. 118, 391. - -Kamette, chief of, i. 452. - -Kamrasi, ii. 392. - -Kamwaga, ii. 422. - -Kamwaiya, i. 367. - -Kandekore clearings, i, 376; ii. 115-16, 118. - -Kanji, the Vakeel of Tarya, i. 60. - -Kapera, ii. 444. - -Karagwe, route through, i. 32-3, 53; - armlets, &c., of, 258; - spears of, 318; - mention of, ii. 360, 382, 387, 404-5, 411-14. - -Karamulli settlement, ii. 352. - -Karema, King of Uganda, ii. 369, 382, 411. - -Karema and Baruti, i. 108. - -Karimi camp, ii. 289; - Ruwenzori from, 327, 335, 339. - -Karramalla, ii. 242, 244, 247. - -Kasai River, ii. 453. - -Kasari settlement, ii. 372. - - -Kasenya Island, i. 334-8. - -Kassasura, ii. 418. - -Kassesse, chief, ii. 347. - -Kassololo Hill, i. 206. - -Kasunga Nyanza, ii. 353. - -Katara, ii. 371. - -Katari settlement, ii. 353-4, 366. - -Katekiro's raid, ii. 338. - -Katera lagoon, ii. 392. - -Kateribba Island, ii. 347. - -Katero Island, ii. 347. - -Katonga River, ii. 318, 358. - -Katonza, chief, i. 331-7, 379, 394, 338, 425, 431-2; ii. 119, 157, 391; - and Kava lli, 395. - -Katto, Mazamboni's brother, i. 434-5; - phalanx dance, 436-8; ii. 118, 391. - -Katwe town, ii. 284, 337, 339-40; - salt lake of, 340-4; - colour of, 343; bay, 346-7. - -Kavalli, i. 63, 118, 129; - and Kasenya Island, 337, 386, 393 (_see_ "Mbiassi"), 389-90, 392, 395, 409-10; - and Kabba Rega, 431-2; - plateau of, ii. 31; - camp, 118-19, 122, 126, 128-9, 140, 162, 201, 210; - Egyptians at, 240, 315; - and Katwe salt, 343, 359; - chief, 389-92; - and cattle, 393-4; - and Katonza, 395; - and Gaddo, 402; - and Emin, 470-1. - -Kavari, ii. 414. - -Kavirondo, ii. 359-60. - -Kawandare, ii. 351, 352. - -Keltie, J. S., i. 47. - -Khalfan, i. 173, 187, 189-90. - -Khalif of Khartoum, ii. 143-4; - letter to, 249. - -Khambi Mbya, ii. 443. - -Khamis bin Athman, i. 86; - headman, 238, 261; - and "Three O'clock," 264-5; - and Zanzibaris, 266-7; - and Boryo, 268, 271-2, 361. - -Khartoum, and General Gordon, i. 20-5, 404, 427; - Emin at, ii. 238; fall of, 121, 239, 241, 244. - -Khedive of Egypt, ii. 151, 152; - letter from the, 121, 125, 128, 131-2, 180; - and Emin, 189, 232-4, 243, 249, 467, 471-2. - -_Khedive_, s.s., on Lake Albert, i. 399, 407, 409, 422, 424, 426, 431; ii. 126, 144, 146, 160. - -Kibbo-bora, headman, ii. 69, 410-11. - -Kibiro, ii. 244. - -Kibwiga, ii. 362. - -Kiengo (guide), ii. 412. - -Kigeri, King, ii. 373. - -Kikuyu, ii. 359. - -Kilimani Hill, i. 455. - -Kilolo, village of, i. 85. - -Kilonga-Longa's (Uledi) settlement, i. 208, 218-19, 234-6, 247; - charges against, 273, 360, 469-70; - ferry of, ii. 49, 59, 107; - followers of, 273. - -Kimberri cones, ii. 390-1. - -Kimpoko, i. 102. - -Kimwani, or Kizinga, ii. 417-18. - -Kingani River, ii. 453. - -Kinnena on the Lindi, i. 236. - -Kinshassa, i. 91, 95-6; - and s.s. _Peace_, 102. - -Kinya-magara Range, ii. 362-5. - -Kirk, Sir John, Mr. Mackay's letter to, i. 30-1, 50, 67; - Emin's letter to, 417; ii. 466-7. - -Kirri, i. 447; ii. 122, 131, 243. - -Kiruromo, ii. 409-10. - -Kiryama village, ii. 257; natives, 258. - -Kisaho village, ii. 418. - -Kitagwenda, ii. 347, 351, 353-4. - -Kitchener, Major, and Khartoum, i. 25. - -Kites, i. 358; - at Badzwa, 394. - -Kitete heights of, ii. 354, 360-1. - - -Kiwewa, ii. 369, 411. - -Knorr, Admiral, i. 60. - -Komubi, chief, i. 393-4; ii. 391. - -Kru-boys, i. 91. - -Kuka Peak, ii. 390-1. - -Kungu, ii. 434-5. - -Kwamouth, i. 103, 105. - -Kwara-Kwanzi, ii. 344. - -Kwilu River, i. 85. - -Kyensi, ii. 411. - -Kynock & Co.'s cartridges, i. 38, 472. - -Kyya Nkondo's, ii. 128-9. - - -Laboratoire Khedivial and Katwe salt, ii. 340-1. - -Labore Station, ii. 122, 131-3. - -Lado, i. 412-13, 415; ii. 133, 244. - -Lake Shore Camp, ii. 160-1, 220, 224-5. - -Lakki (or a "Hundred Thousand"), ii. 24. - -Lakkin (Zanzibari), i. 487. - -Lamu, i. 59; - Dr. Lenz at, 127. - -Landburg, Count de, ii. 310-12. - -Lando villages, i. 424. - -Langa Langa, i. 107. - -Lavigerie, crusade preached by Cardinal, i. 240. - -Lemur, i. 357. - -Lenda River, i. 206-7, 213, 216, 236-7, 472-3; ii. 38. - -Lenz, Dr., the Austrian traveller, i. 59, 127, 428. - -Leopold, King, and the Congo River, i. 20; - and the Congo route, 33-4, 43-5; - visit to, 47-8; - and Stanley Falls, 64-65; - and Free State, 69; - and Tippu-Tib, 70, 121; - proposition to Emin, 411-17; - and Emin, ii. 467-8. - -Leopold II. Lake, ii. 300. - -Leopoldville, i. 91-2, 111. - - -Liebig Company's Extract, i. 39, 89; ii. 58. - -Liebricht, Lieut., of Stanley Pool, i. 90, 92-4, 115, 462, 531. - -Linant Bey, i. 448. - -Lindi River, i. 206. - -Lions, i. 450-1. - -Little Rapids, ii. 30. - -Livingstone Inland Mission, i. 83, 85, 93. - -Livingstone, relief of David, ii. 228-9, 431. - -Lobo, Pere Jerome, and the Nile, ii. 291, 302-3. - -Lohugati stream, ii. 418. - -Luajimba, ii. 350, 411. - -Luba, of Usoga, ii. 370. - -Lufu River, i. 84. - -Luila River, i. 91. - -Lukolela Mission Station, i. 91, 107. - -Lukungu Station, i. 80, 86, 87-8, 105, 120. - -Lulu River, i. 206. - -Lumami, the, i. 513, 520. - -Lunionzo River, i. 85. - -Lupton Bey, i. 19, 26; ii. 241. - -Lutete, i. 89. - - -Mabengu Rapids, i. 192; ii. 28, 94; - villages, i. 184, 187, 481. - -Mabise tribe, ii. 161. - -Mabode tribe, i. 165; ii. 97. - -Mabruki, the hunter, i. 395, 409, 424-5, 481; ii. 137. - -Mackay, Mr. A. M., the Uganda missionary, letters from Emin Bey, i. 25-30; - letter to Sir John Kirk, 30-1; - and spare books from Emin Pasha, 407; - Emin and Mackay's library, 445; - success of, ii. 380-2; - and the Relief Expedition, 423-9; - last letter of, 429-31, 433, 444. - - -Mackenzie, G. S., i. 37, 48, 59-60, 63, 65. - -Mackinnon, John, i. 35. - -Mackinnon, Peter, i. 35. - -Mackinnon, Sir Wm., Prefatory to, i. 1-10; - and relief to Emin, 31-5; - and Congo route, 44-5; - farewell banquet, 48; - letter to the Sultan of Zanzibar, 61-2, 67, 118-19; - Barttelot's report to, 527-33; - Mackay and, ii. 431. - -Mackinnon Mountain, ii. 317-18; - cove, 367. - -McMichael, N., i. 35. - -MacNeil, D., i. 35. - -Madi tribe, i. 426; - carriers, 428-29, 433, 472-4, 476-92; ii. 20, 24, 27, 35, 47, 58, 110; - chief, 281. - -_Madura_, B.I.S.N. Co.'s s.s., i. 60, 63, 66, 75, 79-80. - -Magungo, on Albert Nyanza, i. 444. - -Mahdi (Mohamet Achmet), i. 14; - at Khartoum, 25; - at Rimo, 27, 413-14, 427; - forces defeated by Shukri Agha, 448; - forces, ii. 120, 122-4, 133, 135, 233, 241-4. - -Majato, Manyuema headman, i. 513. - -Majinga Island, ii. 418. - -Makara Plain, ii. 335-6, 343-5. - -Makata Plain, ii. 447. - -Makkaraka, ii. 224, 245. - -Makoko's village, i. 91. - -Makolo, ii. 369, 434, 444. - -Makraka cattle raids, i. 423. - -Makrisi and the Nile, ii. 308-9. - -Makubana, i. 492. - -Makukuru village, i. 386. - -Malai tribe, ii. 161, 174, 210. - -Malaria, remarks about, ii. 31-32. - -Malissa, chief, ii. 435-8. - -"Malwa," or beer, ii. 403, 411, 416. - - -Mamara, ii. 441. - -Mambanga, camp opposite, i. 167, 484; ii. 24. - -Manbungu, i. 167, 261-3, 455-6, 469. - -Mande, i. 268, 375; - woman of, 453. - -Mangola River, i. 84. - -Manioc Zanzibaris and, ii. 5-11. - -Manginni, ii. 24. - -Manyanga, i. 85. - -Manyuema, i. 141, 199; - followers of Kilonga Longa, 218-19, 231-5; - headmen at Ipoto, 238; - morals of, 241-2; - and our rifles, 244-5, 469-71; - and relief of Nelson, 247, 261, 264-73, 350; - and Fort Bodo, 352; ii. 12, 16, 22, 24, 27, 28, 35, 37-8, 47; - girl, 34; - headmen, 13, 19; - insane women, 20; - the wife of ---- - drummer, 29, 49, 64, 110, 119, 148; - raiders, 273, 352, 378. - -Map-makers, ii. 292-3, 299-300; - in books of travel, 334-35. - -Marco, Greek trader, ii. 147, 156, 157, 176. - -Margarita Philosophica, map of, ii. 296. - -Mariri, Lower and Upper, i. 157-8; - rapids, 491; - rapids and villages, ii. 16. - -"Marwa" wine, i. 299. - -Masai, a horde of, ii. 445. - -Masai Land route, i. 32-4, 53. - -Masakuma, ii. 361, 365-7. - -Mason Bey, i. 51-2; - and Albert Nyanza, 328, 444, 332, 334, 336; - and Ruwenzori, 430; ii. 314. - -Mataddi, i. 76, 79, 80, 90; ii. 31. - -Mathews, General, i. 29, 60-1; - mimicking, 371; ii. 474. - -Matyera, interpreter, ii. 282. - -Mavona Valley, ii. 382. - - -Maxim automatic gun, i. 38, 116; - compared to Tippu-Tib, 127; - ii. 306, 379, 437. - -Maza Mankengi, i. 83. - -Mazamba wood, i. 84. - -Mazamboni's Peak, i. 303; - range, 304-9; - Chief, 313; ii. 118, 206, 208, 210-11; 223, 391; - arms of, i. 318, 346-7, 378, 380-4; - his guides, 386, 425, 452; - and Musiri, 434-5; - Phalanx dance by his warriors, 436-41. - -Mbiassi, chief of Kavalli district, i. 386, 390, 392-4, 425. - -Mbiri, millet fields of, i. 298; - cataract near, 314. - -Mboga, ii. 256; - natives of, 258; - height of, 262. - -Mbutti village, i. 375. - -Mbwenni, i. 60. - -Medze tribe, ii. 34. - -Melindwa, ii. 129, 140, 174, 176, 391. - -Memberri, i. 205. - -Meteorology: rain, i. 100-1, 156-7, 188-9, 338, 418-19; - wind, 100-1, 144-5, 153, 262, 388-9, 409, 421-2; - temperature, 149-50, 423, 425-6, 430-1; - rain, ii. 34, 38-9; - in the forest, 82, 86, 93-4, 255-6, 262, 271, 355; - wind, 30, 39, 81-2; - in the forest, 93-4, 318-21, 365, 376, 392, 413; - temperature, 34. - -Mhuma warrior, i. 384-5, 389. - -Mikonju chief, ii. 285. - -Missionary Station Usambiro, ii. 422-31, 433. - -Mississi River, ii. 318. - -Mittinginya, ii. 444-5. - -Miwale River, i. 453. - -Mkiyo village, ii. 342; - lake of, 343. - -Mobangi River, i. 107. - -Mogo, Chief, ii. 121, 124, 129, 140. - - -Mohammed Arabi, ii. 429. - -Mohammed Biri, ii. 245. - -Mohammed, Corporal Dayn, ii. 53. - -Mohammed Emin, ii. 167, 178, 186. - -Mohammed Effendi, the engineer and wife, ii. 191-7; - and Emin, 469. - -Mohammedans, ii. 368, 381. - -Mombasa, i. 59. - -Momvu tribes, i. 194; ii. 97, 100. - -Monangwa, capture of a, ii. 436, 441. - -Monbuttu, visited by Emin, i. 400, 403; - route, 419; - tribe, arms of, ii. 22, 97; - Emin and -- land, 240. - -Monkeys, i. 262. - -Mongoose, i. 449. - -Morogoro, ii. 448. - -Mosquito curtain, ii. 33. - -Mountains of the Moon. _See_ "Ruwenzori." - -Mpanga River, ii. 354, 367. - -Mpigwa, chief of Nyamsassi, i. 386, 425, 431; ii. 126, 158, 161-2; - and Emin, 176, 395-6. - -Mpinga (_see_ "Gavira"), chief of Bavira, ii. 210. - -Mpororo, ii. 354, 369, 373, 387, 405. - -Mpozo River, i. 80. - -Mpwapwa Station, ii. 446-7. - -Mrima, Zanzibari, ii. 158. - -Msalala, i. 73, 404, 408; ii. 449. - -Msharasha (Zanzibari), i. 349. - -Msongwa, forest of, i. 449. - -Msua, ii. 450-3. - -Mswa Station, i. 390, 395, 418, 424; ii. 140, 179, 199, 224-6, 233, 245; - chimpanzees and fruit of, i. 449. - -Mswata, i. 95, 103. - -Mtagata hot springs, ii. 406, 410. - - -Mtarega, ii. 275, 281, 322-3. - -Mtesa, King, ii. 381, 411. - -Mtsora, ii. 283, 285-6, 323. - -Muanza, ii. 438. - -Muggi Station, ii. 122, 133. - -Mugwye, chief of My-yui, i. 166; ii. 24. - -Muhalala, ii. 446. - -Muhamba, ii. 286, 323. - -Muhokya Village, ii. 349. - -Muini Somai, Sheik, i. 527-47; ii. 477. - -Muini Usagara, ii. 447. - -Mukangi, i. 452; ii. 118. - -Mukondokwa Valley, ii. 447. - -Mukungu, ii. 347; - huts of, 347-8. - -Mukupi camp, i. 165. - -Mupe, North and South, villages, i. 158-9, 491; - South, ii. 16. - -Murabo, i. 266; - our "medicine man," 382-3, 481. - -Murchison Bay, island near, ii. 370. - -Murray, Hugh, and the River Nile, ii. 300. - -Musiri, Chief, i. 433-5, 441; ii. 391-2. - -Muta Nzige, lakes so named by different tribes, ii. 421. - -Mutara, ii. 415. - -Mutundu, ii. 391-2. - -Mwanga, King of Uganda, ii. 359, 367-71 (_see_ "Uganda"); 380-2, 411-13, 417, 421, 424-31. - -Mwani, Chief, i. 258. - -Mwembi, i. 86. - -Mwengi, Chief, ii. 417. - -Mwite, Chief, ii. 159. - -Mysome Island, ii. 418. - -My-yui (or Mugwe's) camp, i. 165-6, 484. - - -Namianja, River and Valley, ii. 376-8, 405. - - -Nassib (Zanzibari), i. 478-9. - -Natural History, _see_ "Ornithology," "Zoology," "Botany," &c. - -Navabi, i. 202-4; falls, 477. - -_Navarino_, s.s., i. 46, 48, 58, 59. - -Ndagara or Unyagumbwa, ii. 411-12, 414. - -Nderi, dwarfs of, i. 367. - -Ndugubisha, i. 263, 468. - -Ndumba Village, i. 153. - -Nebasse, i. 261. - -Nejambi Rapids, i. 171-2, 482; ii. 27. - -Nelson, Captain, i. 5, 7; ii. 112, 115, 158, 168-9, 179-81, 183; - weight of, 190; - and Emin, 237, 255, 257, 260-1, 265, 275, 276, 350; - illness of, 353; - Kiengo and, 412, 413, 479; - engaged for the relief staff, i. 42; - departure, 48; - Soudanese and Zanzibaris, 73; - sketch of, 74, 95; - orders to and duties of, 96-8; - at Yambuya, 128; - memorandum for advance-column officers, 129-31; - farewell to Barttelot, 136-7, 154, 161, 178, 182, 213; - illness of, and other followers, 220-1; - anxiety regarding, 241; - relief of, arranged, 247-9; - report, 249-53; - at Ipoto, 272-3, 359, 362-3, 367; - at Fort Bodo, 454, 458-9, 466; - Starvation camp, 249, 253, 471. - -Nepanga Island and Falls (_see_ Panga), i. 168-9. - -Nepoko River, i. 165, 193, 209, 370; ii. 29. - -Nera, ii. 441-2. - -Nestor, i. 381-3. - -Neuville, the Prior of, and the River Nile, ii. 302-3. - -Ngaiyu River, i. 208; ii. 30, 33, 34, 100. - - -Ngalyema, i. 93-119. - -Ngoki River, ii. 44. - -Ngoti, ii. 417. - -Ngula River, i. 167, 483; - camp, ii. 26. - -Ngwetza, ii. 61-71. - -_Nieman_, s.s., i. 75-6. - -Nile, sources of the river, ii. 291-312, 314-15, 325; - White Nile, 336; - Albertine Nile, 357; - Alexandra, 359, 376, 405, 412; valley, 382. - -Nindo people, ii. 430. - -Njalis, i. 262. - -Nkalama River, i. 90. - -Noailles, Countess de, i. 35, 43. - -Nsabe camp, i. 399, 418-27; ii. 122-4, 128, 135-7. - -Nselo, i. 89. - -Nsinda Mountain, ii. 362. - -Nsona Mamba, of Lower Congo, i. 219. - -Nsongi River, ii. 318, 351, 354. - -Nubar Pasha, i. 17; - and Congo route, 49, 51-2; - letter to Emin, 58, 401-3; - and Emin's pay, 406, 428; - letter from, ii. 121, 131-2, 180, 467. - -Nubians and rhinoceros, ii. 406-9. - -Nyamatoso settlement, ii. 373. - -Nyamagazani River, ii. 318, 337, 339. - -Nyamagoju camp, ii. 418. - -Nyam-Nyam tribe, arms of, ii. 22, 97; - language of, 490. - -Nyamsassi, i. 337, 386., 391-2, 395; - island, 291; - Baker and, 400, 423, 424; ii. 118, 124-7, 135, 137. - -Nyangwe, i. 127, 527. - -_Nyanza_, s.s., i. 426; ii. 126, 144, 146, 160, 176. - -Nyanzas, the different, ii. 283-4. - -Nyika, King of Usongora, ii. 345; - son of, 372. - -Nzalli's camp, i. 468. - - -Nzera Kum Hill, i. 309-10, 382, 441. - - -Okili, Captain Casati's servant, ii. 255. - -Omar, Sergeant, of the Soudanese, ii. 208-10. - -Omar Saleh, ii. 122, 133, 248-9. - -Omar al Khattab, ii. 135. - -_Oriental_, s.s., i. 59. - -Ornithology: - aquatic birds, i. 152; - guinea fowl, 223; - eagles, 358; - black ibis, 358; - herons, 358; - kites at Badzwa, 394; - wagtails and weaver birds, 359; - Emin's bird studies, 451; - fowls, ii. 15, 28, 62; - ibises, 45; - eagles, 45, 90; - parrots and other birds, 45, 90; - birds in the forest, 88, 90; - bats, 88; Emin and birds, 163-4, 175, 267; - cranes, herons, &c., 343, 348, 414-5. - -Osman Digna, letter from, ii. 248-9. - -Osman Latif Effendi, ii. 170, 178, 183-4, 202; - and the Koran, 206-7, 220. - -Oyster-shells, heaps of, i. 154. - - -Palaballa camp, i. 83. - -Panga Falls, i. 154, 165, 168-9, 194, 483; ii. 26. - -Parke, Surgeon T. H., i. 5-7; ii. 31-2, 72, 112, 114; - Surgeon to Expedition, i. 49, 58; - vaccinating the men, 73; - and s.s. _Stanley_, 95; - orders to, and duties of, 96-8, 103, 105, 128; - memorandum for advance-column officers, 129-31; - stung by bees, 143-4; - and weaver birds, 151-2, 161; - the good surgeon, 195, 218; - fanciful menus, 226-7, 233; - report, 250, 253, 272, 359; - report of, 360-2; - and Stanley's illness, 367, 371; - first view of the grass-land, 376, 390, 420, 422, 430-1; - at Fort Bodo, 458-9, 466, 468-70; - letter to Major Barttelot, 490; - address to, 116-18, 155, 162-3, 167-8, 179-81, 189; - weight of, 190, 208-9, 211-12; - illness of, 216, 352, 466; - and Emin, 237, 260-1, 276; - pigmy damsel and, 410, 460; - and Emin's accident, 461, 465, 479. - -Parrots, i. 262, 449. - -Pauncefote, Sir J., i. 46. - -_Peace_, Mission Steamer, letter from donor, i. 47, 85-6, 90-1, 92; - Yambuya, 101-7, 112-16. - -Pelly, Colonel Sir Lewis, i. 46, 50. - -Pender, Sir John, i. 66. - -Pfeil, Count, i. 59. - -Phalanx Dance, a, i. 436-38. - -Physical Geography, _see_" Rivers," "Cataracts," "Falls," "Islands," &c. - -Piaggia, traveller, and Monbuttu, i. 400. - -Pigmies, _see_ "Dwarfs." - -Pisgah, Mount, i. 281-3, 375, 376; ii. 94, 116, 124, 175, 315, 333, 390. - -Poisoned arrows, _see_ "Arms." - -Poison used for arrows, ii. 107-8. - -Poli-Poli, guide, ii. 438. - -Ponta da Lenha, i. 76. - -Portal, Mr., i. 29. - -Portugal and Africa, i. 69. - -Power, Mr., Consul of Khartoum, i. 21, 23. - -Price, Rev. Mr., ii. 447. - -Prout, Expedition under Colonel, i. 443-4. - -Ptolemy's map of Africa, ii. 294, 300, - and Nile, 301. - -Purdy, Expedition under Colonel, i. 443-4. - -Rajab, Emin's clerk, ii. 163, 268. - -Raki, a kind of Russian Vodka, i. 426. - -Rami River, ii. 274, 318. - -Rami Lulu River gorge, ii. 275, 281, 318, 328. - -"Randy," fox terrier and guinea fowl, i. 223; - Randy's food, 232; - and the rats, 355; - the last of, 459; ii. 93. - -Raouf Pasha and cattle raids, i. 423. - -Rashid, Tippu-Tib's nephew, i. 70. - -Rashid bin Omar, Head Chief, i. 213-5, 228, 247, 291, 347, 472-3, 484-5, 491. - -Rashid, Chief, ii. 59-60, 139, 145. - -Rats, at Fort Bodo, i. 355. - -Ravidongo, a general of Kabba Rega's, i. 432; ii. 258. - -Rear column, instructions to officers commanding, i. 117-9; - garrison of, 133; - start for relief of, 457-9; - anxiety about, 460-1; - Lieut. Stairs and, 464-5; - no news of, 489-90; - the sad story of the, 498-526; - Barttelot's report of, 527-33; - log of, 533-47. - -Red Sea, and Stanley's servant, i. 58-9. - -Refuse heaps of villages, ii. 348. - -Rehan, ii. 213-16; - Major--Agha Ibrahim, 243. - -"Reilly" rifle, i. 213. - -Rejaf Station, i. 447-8; ii. 120, 121, 123-4, 131-5, 243. - -Rendi Creek, i. 162. - -Rendi River, ii. 16. - -Reptiles; snakes and, i. 357-8, 426; ii. 90; - Emin and, 267-8; - and pythons, i. 450. - -Richards, Mr. and Mrs., of the L. I. Mission, i. 85. - -Rivers, _see_ Aruwimi, Chai, Congo, Dui, Ihuru, Katonga, Lenda, Mpanga, Namianja, Nepoko, Ngaiyu, Ngula, Rami Lulu, Rwizi, Semliki, &c. - -Rothkirch, Baron von, i. 84, 95. - -Royal Geographical Society, London, i. 35; ii. 13, 16. - -Royal Scottish Geographical Society, ii. 13, 16. - -_Royal_, steamer, i. 77. - -Royle, Mr., and Baker's defeat at Tokar, i. 17. - -Rozaka, ii. 413. - -Ruampara Range, ii. 373, 376. - -Ruanda, i. 53, 63; ii. 343, 345, 354, 359-60, 373, 387, 405. - -Rubutu River, ii. 274, 318. - -Rudimi, Chief of Usiri, ii. 176. - -Ruguji tribe, ii. 160, 176, 392. - -Ruhandika, King, ii. 270. - -Ruigi, King, ii. 347, 353, 366. - -Rukara, ii. 284; - cattle of, 289-90, 339; - and Katwe, 344, 347-50. - -Rukoki River, ii. 318, 349. - -Ruku Creek, i. 173. - -Rumanika, ii. 411-2. - -Rumondo Island, ii. 418. - -Rusango River, ii. 318, 367, 405. - -Rusesse zeriba, ii. 289-90, 337. - -Rusirubi River, ii. 318. - -Rusussu Valley, ii. 376. - -Ruverahi River, ii. 290, 318. - -Ruwenzori, first view of, i. 429-30; - the "Cloud King," ii. 175, 190, 208; - "Ukonju," 251, 256, 257, 262-3; - "Bugombowa," 263, 268-72, 274-6; - Stair's ascent of, 276-80; - names for, 284; - view of, 286; - from Karimi, 289; - from Mtsora, 323; - Mountains of the Moon in old maps (Mount Gumr), 291-313, 313-33, 336-9, 349, 357, 479. - - -Ruysch, John, map of Africa, ii. 297. - -Rwimi River, ii. 286, 318. - -Rwizi River, ii. 371-2, 376, 377, 405. - - -Saat Tato (or "Three O'clock," the hunter), i. 184, 200, 205, 213, 264-5, 302, 341, 345, 374, 395, 409; ii. 146, 170, 254. - -Saadi, i. 187, 189-90, 204. - -Sabadu, ii. 369. - -Saburi (boy), ii. 64-5, 69, 71. - -Sadi, Chief, ii. 49, 69. - -Said bin Saif, _alias_ Kipanda, ii. 368. - -Sali, the tent-boy, i. 273-4, 480-1; ii. 185-6, 197-8, 460, 466, 471. - -Salim, son of Massoud, i. 89-90, 120, 301; - Tippu-Tib's nephew, 513-14, 524. - -Salim, the son of Rashid, ii. 7-11. - -Salim bin Mohammed, ii. 16-20, 182. - -Salt lakes of Katwe, ii. 340-4. - -Salt, packet of native, i. 376. - -Samuel, Waganda Christian, ii. 367-71, 380-2. - -"Sanford" Exploring Company, i. 95, 107. - -Sanga (Barttelot's assassin), i. 499, 518, 520, 545-6. - -Sangarameni, headman, i. 238, 246, 361. - -Sangwe-Mirembe Promontory, ii. 323. - -Sarmini, i. 367. - -Scheabeddin's description of the River Nile, ii. 310. - -Schmidt, Lieutenant R., ii. 446-8, 453, 461. - -Schintze, Pere, ii. 445. - -Schnitzer, Edward, _see_ "Emin Pasha." - - -Schweinfurth, Professor, and Congo route, i. 49, 52-4, 58; - and Monbuttu, 400; - "Artes Africanae," ii. 22, 164, 268. - -Seke, ii. 441-2. - -Selim Bey, i. 423; ii. 134, 148, 152, 156, 160, 176-81, 183-4, 199-203, 214, 217-20; - letters from, 223-7. - -Semliki Valley, ii. 256, 268-9, 275, 280, 283; - description of, 317-25, 328-32, 337, 479. - -Semliki River, ii. 226, 258; - ferrying, 260, 263, 269, 284-6, 317, 392. - -Serour, a Monbuttu boy, ii. 197, 203, 209. - -_Serpa Pinto_, paddle-boat, i. 76-7. - -Seyyid Barghash, Sultan of Zanzibar, i. 37, 60, 61-3, 67, 69, 264; ii. 18; - and the Germans, 381. - -Shukri Agha, Commandant of Mswa Station, i. 395, 431, 447-9; ii. 121-3, 135, 147, 173-4, 177-8; - notice to, 181, 210, 217; - arrival, 220, 233, 246-7, 473. - -Sibaliki, Chief, ii. 270. - -Simba, i. 273-4; ii. 444. - -Simbamwenni, ii. 448. - -Sims, Dr., and s.s. _Peace_, i. 92-4. - -Singiri River, ii. 274-318. - -Sinyanga, ii. 442. - -Smith, Dr., ii. 380. - -Smith, Mr. Harrison, i. 31. - -Smith, Colonel Euan, ii. 445, 472-3. - -Smith, Mackenzie, and Company, i. 37, 48. - -Somalis, i. 83, 126, 157, 164. - -Somalis, the, ii. 4-11; - last of, 57-8. - -Soswa Island, ii. 418. - -Soudan, the, i. 12, 15-17, 414. - -Soudanese soldiers, i. 67-8, 72-3, 80, 85, 87-8, 120, 129, 194, 529; - Emin's, 399, 450; - the Soudanese, ii. 1-11, 22, 116, 126, 127, 141, 146, 159, 198-206, 208, 214-16, 378, 415-16, 434. - -Soudi, Barttelot's boy, i. 518; ii. 29, 34. - -Speke, Captain, i. 12, 50; - and Mtsea, ii. 411-12. - -Stairs, Lieutenant W. G., i. 5, 7, 42-3, 48, 74, 80; - orders to, 97-8, 116, 128, 129-31, 132-3, 151, 161; - wounded by a poisoned arrow, 174-9, 189, 217-18, 226-7, 232, 274, 313-14, 315-17, 336, 341, 347, 352-54, 363, 364, 365, 366, 453, 485; - at Fort Bodo, 454, 458-9; - report of, 454-6, 461-5, 465-7; ii. 112, 113-14, 115-18, 139-40; - letter from, 145-6, 155, 159-60, 170-3, 176, 179-81; - weight of, 190, 203, 211; - and capture of Rehan, 213-16; - and ammunition, 220; - and Emin, 237, 255; - illness of, 260, 265, 275, 371; - report of ascent of Ruwenzori, 276-78, 352; - and Semliki River, 297, 453, 473-4, 479. - -Stanley, H. M., work on the Congo River, i. 19-20, 78; - the Congo route, 33, 34; - purchases, 37-9, 46-7; - Sandringham, 48, 49, 58, 59; - orders to officers, 97-8; - the command of rear column, 106; - Baruti, 110; - instructions to Major Barttelot, 117-19; - conversation with Major Barttelot referring to Tippu-Tib, 119-28; - memorandum for advance column officers, 129-31, 136; - officers, 161; - Avisibba bow and arrows, 180, 192, 204, 209, 213-15, 223, 229, 230-1; - and Bible, 311-12; - prostrated by ague, 348, 366; - and inflammation of the stomach, 367, 369; - and Chief Mazamboni, 380-3; - first letter from Emin, 389-90; - and answer, 391-2; - meeting with Emin, 396; - conversation with Emin about leaving the Province, 401-6, 410-17, 420-3; - Emin's officers, 423; - cattle raids, 423-4; - Emin and sextant, 425, 426; - message to Emin's troops, 427-8; - two letters from Emin, 431-2; - Kadongo and, 434; - visit from Shukri Agha, 447-9; - natural history facts by Emin related to, 449-51; - at Fort Bodo, 457-8; - anxiety about rear column, 460-1, 492; - conversation and instructions to Lieut. Stairs, 461-7; - and forest marching, 479-80; - rumors about, 502-3; - and the story of the rear column, 526-50; - Barttelot's report, 527-33; - log of rear column, 533-47; - (Bula Matari) and Zanzibaris, ii. 1-11; - letter to Jameson, 15-16; - and breaches of promise, 21; - and fever, 31-2; - clothes, 47; - Starvation Camp, 48, 63-71; - and Chimpanzee skulls, 93; - address by, 116-18; - letters from Emin and Jephson, 120-4; - replies to the same, 124-9; - Emin's letters to, 137-8, 144-5; - letter to revolted officers, 156; - Emin and the dwarfs, 164-7; - and Egyptian baggage, 170-3; - and Balegga Hills, 175; - and Selim Bey, 177-8; - address to officers re Selim Bey, 179-81; - and Osman Latif Effendi, 183-4; - and boy Sali, 185-6; - and Captain Casati, 186-9; - weight of, 190; - and Emin Pasha and men, 198-206, 217-20; - illness, 211-13, 216, 220, 260, 353, 376; - and Rehan, 214-16; - study of Emin Pasha, 228, 249; - and Egyptians, 252-5; - and Emin Pasha, 267-8; - and maps, 292-3, 334-5; - routes to the coast, 358-60; - meeting with Mr. Mackay, 423-7; - Mackay's last letter to, 429-31; - letters and news clippings, 449-50; - Gordon Bennett and, 450-3; - at Bagamayo, 454-61; - visit to Emin, 465-6; - and Emin, 468-73; - at Zanzibar, 473-7; - at Cairo, 477-80. - -_Stanley_, s.s., i. 75, 76, 85, 90, 92, 95, 101-10, 120-4, 128, 132, 461-3, 505, 512-16, 528, 532. - -Stanley Falls, i. 63-5, 69-72, 120-4, 415, 511-26; ii. 15; - Pool, 31. - -Stanley Pool, i. 86, 103. - -Starvation Camp, i. 3-4; - _see_ "Nelson;" ii. 48, 63-71. - -Stephenson, General, i. 56, 58. - -Stevens, Mr. Thomas, ii. 450. - -Stewart, Colonel, i. 20, 23. - -Stewart, Sir Herbert, i. 23-5. - -Stokes, Mr., ii. 370-1, 381-2, 427, 435, 444. - -Stone Pasha and Gordon, i. 444. - -Strauch, General, and Stanley Pool, i. 86. - -Suez, i. 58. - -Sulimani, ii. 48. - -Sullivan, Admiral, i. 45. - -Sultan of Zanzibar, _see_ "Seyyid Barghash." - -Surur Aga, ii. 132. - -Swinburne at Kinshassa, i. 85, 95-6, 462. - -Sylvannus' Map of Africa, ii. 297. - - -Tam, native of Johanna, ii. 28, 29. - -Tanganika Lake, i. 63, 65; ii. 300, 359; - and party of 100 Swedes, i. 240. - -Tempest, a forest, ii. 81-2. - -Tewfik, Khedive, and Congo route, i. 49, 56; - High Order handed me for Emin Pasha, 56-7, 401-3, 405; - propositions to Emin from, 410-11, 427. - -Thermometer readings, Ruwenzori, ii. 277. - -Thomson, Mr. J., and Masai Land route, i. 31, 32, 35, 47. - -"Three O'clock," the hunter, _see_ "Saat Tato." - -Tigrane Pasha, i. 52, 58. - -_Times_, letter to the, re Tippu-Tib, i. 127. - -Tippu-Tib, i. 53, 63-5; - and Emin's ivory, 64, 71; - negotiations with, 65, 67-9; - the Belgians and Stanley Falls, 69-71; - and Cape Town, 74-5; - proposed visit to England, 75; - and Salim, 90; - and Major Barttelot proceed to Stanley Falls, 108, 115-16; - Major Barttelot and, 119-28, 239, 370, 463-5; - and rear column, 498-526; - Barttelot's report of, 527-33; - log of rear column, 533-47; ii. 12-14, 16, 107; caravan of, 446; - Jaffar Tarya and carriers, 474-7. - -Tobacco, i. 290. - -Toro, ii. 279, 284, 343, 345; - hills of, 349, 351, 362, 403. - -Trees, fallen, in the forest, ii. 92-3. - -Tribes, _see_ "Ethnology." - -Troup, John Rose, i. 6, 42, 80, 85; - orders to, 97-8, 106, 372, 380, 462-3, 494; - and story of the rear column, 500-26, 528. - -Tukabi, boy, ii. 257. - - -Tunguru Station, ii. 123, 127, 134, 135, 140, 147, 179, 233, 245. - -Turkan Land, ii. 240. - -Twin Cones of Ruwenzori, ii. 315. - - -Uchu natives, ii. 61. - -Uchunku, Prince Royal of Ankori, ii. 378-80. - -Uddu, ii. 314, 369, 381-2. - -Uganda, king of, i. 29, 30, 32, 53, 63, 64; - shields, 318, 323; - Kabba Rega and, 407, 417; ii. 314, 345; - routes to coast, 358-60; - events in, 368-71, 380-2, 411-13; - _see_ also Mwanga, King of Uganda. - -Ugarama village, ii. 264; - spur of, 269-70, 328. - -Ugarrowwa (called Uledi Balyuz), i. 199, 203-10, 211, 238, 363; ii. 12, 15, 16, 26; - ----'s old stations, 37, 107; - invalids in care of, i. 454-6, 475-82, 484, 485-90. - -Ugogo, ii. 446. - -Uhaiya, ii. 387-8. - -Uhaiyana, ii. 343, 345, 347, 351, 387. - -Uhha, armlets, &c., of, i. 258; - spears of, 318; ii. 386, 405. - -Uhobo, ii. 255; natives of, 258. - -Ujangwa clearing, i. 444-5. - -Ujiji, ii. 359. - -Ujungwa, ii. 252. - -Ukerewe, ii. 300, 434. - -Ukonju, ii. 270, 282-5, 343-4. - -Ukuba, i. 453. - -Ulaiya, ii. 209. - -Uledi, i. 164, 227-8, 229, 245, 249, 263, 274, 292, 315-17, 349; - and queen of Pigmies, 367-8; ii. 48, 167, 254, 273. - -Ulegga, ii. 282, 284, 322-3. - -Umari (headman), i. 230, 240, 250, 275, 361. - - -Umeni, i. 216; camp, ii. 39. - -Umpete, ii. 422. - -Undussuma, i. 2, 313, 319, 321, 346, 378, 380, 383, 390, 401, 452; ii. 31, 183; - hills, 220. - -Ungerengeri, ii. 449. - -Unyabongo, i. 452. - -Unyakatera camp, ii. 405. - -Unya-Kavalli range, i. 430-1. - -Unya-Matundu plateau, ii. 421. - -Unya-Matundu Ruwamba, ii. 421. - -Unyampaka, ii. 337, 343, 347, 353. - -Unyamwambi River, ii. 318, 349. - -Unyamwezi, i. 53; ii. 434, 446. - -Unyoro, dome hut of, i. 258; - table-land of, 324, 329, 400; ii. 317, 387-9; - language of, i. 332; - Casati in, 407-8, 417, 432; ii. 159, 175, 191; - cattle of, 393, 403. - -Urigi, Lake, ii. 300, 413-15, 417. - -Urima, ii. 438, 442. - -Urindi, ii. 386, 405. - -Uringa, ii. 284. - -Urumangwa, i. 384, 441, 452. - -Usambiro mission house, ii. 422-31. - -Useni, ii. 414. - -Usiri, i. 435, 543. - -Usoga, ii. 381. - -Usongo district, ii. 444. - -Usongora, Casati and, i. 419; ii. 242, 284, 286, 289, 343, 345, 354; - cattle of, 393; - pit-water, 376-7, 479. - -Usui, ii. 443; king of, 418-21. - -Usukuma, ii. 434, 442-3. - -Usumbwa herdsmen, ii. 387-8. - -Uthenga, ii. 413. - -Utinda, ii. 252-5. - -Utiri villages, i. 172, 192. - -Utuku, ii. 263, 270, 285. - -Uyogu, people of, ii. 444. - -Uyombi, ii. 422. - - -Uzanza plain, ii. 391. - -Uzanzi, i. 105, 386, 388. - -Uzinja, ii. 421. - - -Vaccination of Zanzibaris, ii. 34-5. - -Valentine Baker Pasha, i. 16-17, 22; - Nubar Pasha and, 52, 58. - -Vandyck, Mr., of Cairo, i. 304. - -Van Gele, Capt., i. 107, 532. - -Van Kirkhoven of Bangala Station, i. 107, 503, 527-32. - -Verrazano, H. de, map of Africa, ii. 298. - -Vianzi, ii. 448. - -Viaruha village, ii. 377-8. - -Victoria Nile, i. 419. - -Victoria Nyanza, and Emin, i. 416-18; - march to, 423, 432; - bay at N. E. end, ii. 292, 299-300, 304, 418-22, 432-6. - -Villages, refuse heaps of the, i. 150; - decaying, 469. - -Vita Hassan, ii. 147, 155, 161, 186, 194. - -Vombo, i. 86. - -Vivi, ii. 32. - -Vizetelly, Mr. E., ii. 450. - - -Wabiassi tribe, i. 324; ii. 160, 210. - -Waburu, i. 280, 453. - -Wachunga tribe, ii. 386. - -Wachwezi or Wanyankori tribe, ii. 284, 345, 362-6, 388-9. - -Wadelai, i. 64, 333, 424; ii. 123, 133-7, 143, 145, 155, 179, 199, 224, 233, 245. - -Wadi Asmani, headman, ii. 409. - -Wadi Halfa, i. 56, 415, 427. - -Wadi Khamis, ii. 158, 160, 376. - -Wafipa tribe, ii. 386. - -Waganda, i. 33; ii. 338, 353, 359-60; - and Kabba Rega, 401; - Christians, 367, 371, 378, 380-2, 388, 392, 417, 421. - -Wahha, the, i. 53. - -Wahuma, i. 380, 385, 392; - or Waiyana tribe, ii. 129, 176, 255, 284, 378; - description of, 384-403, 422, 489. - -Waiau tribe, ii. 386. - -Waima or Wanyavingi tribe, ii. 284. - -Waiyana or Wahuma tribe, ii. 284. - -Wakanongo tribe, ii. 386. - -Wakawendi tribe, ii. 386. - -Wakonju people, ii. 283-6; - and Ruwenzori, 332, 344-7, 349-51. - -Wakovi tribe, ii. 284. - -Wakungu, ii. 369. - -Wakuri tribe, ii. 304, 312, 388. - -Wales, T. R. H. Prince and Princess of, i. 48. - -Walker, Mr., i. 79, 85, 95; ii. 429, 444; - and s.s. _Stanley_, i. 103-4, 115. - -Waller, Rev. H., i. 50. - -Wamaganga, ii. 372. - -Wambutti dwarfs, i. 375, 385, 457; ii. 42, 100-9; - measurements of, 164-7; - language of, 489. - -Wampoko, i. 95. - -Wandui, ii. 445. - -Wanguido tribe, ii. 386. - -Wanyamavezi, music of, i. 436; - tribe, ii. 386, 423. - -Wanyankori or Wachwezi tribe, ii. 284, 359, 362-6, 372; - milk of, 372; - one of our officers and, 373-6; 378. - -Wanyaturu tribe, ii. 445-6. - -Wanyavingi or Waima tribe, ii. 269, 284, 344-5. - -Wanyoro, ii. 157, 314, 338; - tribe and Capt. Casati, i. 408. - -Wara Sura, tribe of, i. 286, 332, 379, 381; ii. 159, 255, 260-1; - raid of, 262, 264, 270-1, 273, 284, 290, 313, 338, 339, 344-6, 349, 351-2, 362-5, 391-2. - -Ward, Herbert, i. 6, 83, 104, 106, 372, 380, 494; - and story of the rear column, 500-26; - report, 524-26; - log of rear column, 527-47. - -Wasiri tribe, ii. 176. - -Wasoki tribe, ii. 284. - -Wasongora or Wawitu tribe, ii. 284, 337-8, 344, 345, 347, 349-51, 386, 388. - -Wasp Rapids, i. 163, 210, 485; ii. 22. - -Wasps, i. 163-4, 233. - -Wasps and their nests, ii. 84. - -Wasukuma tribe, ii. 386; - fight with, 436-8. - -Watson & Co., i. 38. - -Watusi tribe, ii. 372, 387-8, 396, 399. - -Watuta or Wangoni, ii. 444-5. - -Watwa tribe of pigmies, ii. 42, 263, 264, 270, 272, 284. - -Wavira tribe, ii. 176. - -Wawitu or Wasongora tribe, ii. 284. - -Wazinja, ii. 421. - -Wazongora, ii. 269. - -Wellcome, Henry S., and Katwe Salt, ii. 341-2. - -Were Camp, ii. 146. - -Wester, Lieut., and Stanley Falls Station, i. 65. - -Whitley, Capt., and s.s. _Peace_, i. 92, 102. - -Wilkinson's "Ancient Egyptians," ii. 396-9. - -Wills, Mr. J. T., i. 31. - -Wilson, Sir Chas., i. 24. - -Winton, Col. Sir F. de, i. 39-40, 46-9, 108. - -Wissman, Major, ii. 447-8, 453, 458, 485. - -Wolseley, Lord, and Arabi Pasha, i. 14; - and General Gordon, 20; - and the relief of Khartoum, 23-5; - and Lieut. Stairs, 41. - -Wombola, chief of, i. 452. - -Wood, Sir Evelyn, i. 14. - -Woods, in the forest, ii. 84; - secrets of, 87-8. - -Woods, trees, &c., _see_ "Forests." - -Wyyanzi natives, i. 159. - -Wyyanzi tribe, ii. 97. - - -Yambuya, i. 110-14, 131-8; - rapids of, 138, 158, 200-1; - s.s. _Stanley_ at, 461-5; - story of the rear column at, 502-6; - log of rear column, 527-47. - -Yankonde natives, i. 138-9. - -Younger, Henry J., i. 35. - -Yumbu, i. 255. - -Yusuf Effendi, ii. 352. - - -Zachariah, Waganda Christian, ii. 367-71, 380-2. - -Zanzibar, i. 60; ii. 473-7. - -Zanzibar, Sultan of, _see_ "Seyyid Barghash." - -Zanzibaris, i. 53, 72-3, 79, 84, 86, 88, 91, 94, 96, 123, 129, 169, 172, 182-3, 194-5, 210-15, 227, 364, 387, 399, 420, 426, 428, 460, 475; - and Sali, 480-1, 482, 483, 484, 486-9, 497, 529. - -Zanzibaris, the, ii. 1-11, 16, 20, 22, 27, 29, 34-5, 38, 47, 58, 60-1, 110, 119, 130-1, 146, 148, 158, 164, 168-9, 173, 197-202; - and Omar, 208-10; - and Rehan, 216, 220, 266-7, 276-80, 352, 378, 413, 428, 453, 458, 474. - -Zoology: - antelope, i. 218; - buffalo, 358, 409, 425; ii. 89; - crocodiles of Upper Congo, i. 101; ii. 88; - claws of a, i. 419; - chimpanzees, 262, 449; ii. 88, 90, 93, 101, 163, 279; - lions, i. 450-1; ii. 367, 415, 421; - monkeys, i. 262; ii. 45, 88, 90; - mongoose, i. 449; - lemur, i. 357; ii. 93; - goats, i. 169; - bush antelope, ii. 24-6, 88; - elephants, 47, 78, 88, 89, 93, 113; - squirrels, 90; - hippopotami, 88, 415; - rhinoceros, 406-9; - donkeys, 91; - cattle, 160, 275, 393; - of Ikoma, 435; - leopard, at Katwe, 346-7, 367; - hyaena, 367, 415. - - -[Illustration: A MAP OF THE ROUTE OF THE EMIN PASHA RELIEF EXPEDITION -THROUGH AFRICA - -Copyright, 1890, by Charles Scribner's Sons.] - -[Illustration: A MAP OF EMIN PASHA'S PROVINCE. - -Copyright, 1890, by Charles Scribner's Sons.] - - -FOOTNOTES: - -[1] The Sketch Maps on pages 293 to 308 inclusive are from tracings from -ancient books in the Khedive's library at Cairo. - -[2] This proves that the Pasha endorses what Mr. Jephson writes. - -[3] The Pasha appears to admit that he has read Mr. Jephson's letters. - -[4] I have read this letter scores of times, yet I fail to see how this -officially worded letter, which, as suggested by Mr. Jephson, might have -fallen into the rebel officers' hands, could have wounded the most -delicate susceptibilities, yet I was informed that the Pasha was very -much offended at it. Nothing was further from my mind than to affront a -friend, my sole object being to obtain a definite answer to the question -"Will you stay here, or accompany me?" - -[5] Omar al Khattab, the second Caliph from Mohammed, said, "Four things -come not back; the spoken word; the sped arrow; the past life; and the -neglected opportunity." I accept Mr. Jephson's explanations, but I -nevertheless adhere to the belief that much suffering and anxiety would -have been avoided, and the imprisonment and danger would have been -impossible, had the promises been kept. July was the date they should -have started for Fort Bodo. The arrest took place August 18th. - -[6] I do not know what induced the Pasha to write in this melancholy -strain, for as plain as tongue could speak, and pen could write, I had -been endeavouring to explain to him that we considered ourselves as his -servants, and bound to render any service in our power to him, provided -he but distinctly and definitely stated his wishes. - -[7] This kindly letter was after the Chesterfield style so commended by -Mr. Jephson, whose sharp wits had perceived the Pasha's extremely -delicate susceptibilities. Oh dear! oh dear! - -[8] The Pasha has, however, severely refrained from communicating -anything. - -[9] - - LIST OF MEASUREMENTS TAKEN ON WAMBUTTI PIGMIES BELONGING - TO MR. STANLEY'S EXPEDITION. - - Name of the Individuum ... .. {| Tokbali. | A girl. | A woman. | A boy. - {| P. 20 |I.H.P. 15 | P. 35 | P. 15 - Height from vortex to the | | | | - earth ... ... ... ... ... .... | 1.360 m. | 1.240 m. | 1.365 m. | 1.280 m. - Height from shoulder ... ... . | 1.116 m. | 1.021 m. | 1.110 m. | 1.090 m. - Height from navel ... ... .... | 0.835 m. | 0.725 m. | 0.785 m. | 0.970 m. - Length of arm from shoulder | | | | - to tip of middle finger .... | 0.707 m. | 0.571 m. | 0.580 m. | 0.540 m. - Breadth from shoulder to | | | | - shoulder ... ... ... ... ... | 0.320 m. | 0.304 m. | 0.295 m. | 0.260 m. - Circumference below nipples .. | 0.710 m. | 0.660 m. | 0.710 m. | 0.640 m. - Circumference under armpit ... | 0.720 m. | 0.660 m. | 0.710 m. | 0.630 m. - Greatest longitudinal diameter | | | | - of head ... ... ... ... .... | 200 mm. | 176 mm. | 180 mm. | 175 mm. - Smallest transversal diameter | | | | - of head ... ... ... ... .... | 147 mm. | 150 mm. | 145 mm. | 140 mm. - Breadth of the nose ... ... .. | 60 mm. | 60.5 mm. | 65 mm. | 65 mm. - Circumference of skull ... ... | 530 mm. | 535 mm. | 510 mm. | 510 mm. - Length of foot ... ... ... ... | 220.5 mm.| 190 mm. | 212 mm. | 190 mm. - - Bodies covered with stiffish, grey, short hair.--DR. EMIN. - - -[10] This is added to make the table more complete. - -[11] This list is not complete, inasmuch as Moslems have a strong -disinclination to permit their women to appear in public, others -affected not to understand the necessity of the muster. - -[12] Several of the officers informed me that Emin was alone responsible -for the offer to the Mahdi of the surrender of the province. He -certainly signed the document, but I am inclined to believe that he did -it for the purpose of deceiving Karamalla, and his subsequent acts seem -to prove this. - -[13] Judge Charles P. Daly, President of the American Geographical -Society, New York. - -[14] It was devoted to the same uses down to the time of Emin Pasha. - -[15] Victoria Nyanza, Lake of Likuri, so called after a tribe named the -Wakuri, or Wakori, on the north shore of Lake Victoria, who still exist -there. See 'Life of Bishop Hannington.' This tribe of Wakuri may be the -remnant of what was once a powerful nation. - -[16] I have not learned that Lieutenant Stairs in his ascent was guilty -of such extravagance. - -[17] Extremely like the description of what was to be seen on Ruwenzori, -according to the Wahuma herdsmen. - -[18] Madagascar. - -[19] Enoch. - -[20] I wonder if this renowned Idrisi is the same as the patriarch Kintu -in the legend of the Waganda. See 'Through the Dark Continent.' - -[21] It is exceedingly like the legend of Kintu, only it possesses more -details. - -[22] Lake Albert. - -[23] Mount Ajif(?) if the lake was 50 feet higher--Ajif might be so -described. - -[24] Lake Albert Edward(?). - -[25] Perhaps he means Zing, or Eastern littoral called Zinghiber, -Zanjibar--Zanzibar. - -[26] Batwa(?), from the pigmies. - -[27] Lake Albert. - -[28] Albert Nyanza. - -[29] Because of the mist? - -[30] Turkan? - -[31] From the tribe Wakuri, or Bakuri, on the north shore of Lake -Victoria, where it exists to this day. - -[32] I sent a bottle full of this brine to the Laboratoire Khedivial in -Cairo to be analysed by the Government chemists, and the following -report was made:-- - - LABORATOIRE KHEDIVIAL. - -Le Cairo, _25th Mars, 1890_. - -The composition of this water is as follows:-- - - Potash, K_{9}O 2.667 - Soda, N_{3}O 13.94 - Inhydrous sulphuric acid (combined), 5O_{3} 3.17 - " carbonic " ( " ), 8O_{2} 2.36 - Chlorine ( " ), Cl 11.33 - Sulphuretted hydrogen ( " ), SH_{2} .02 - Lime and magnesia traces - Silica .01 - Water 68.77 - ----- - 102.26 - Deduct oxygen equivalent to chlorine 2.55 - ----- - 99.71 - -Calculating the bases to the oxides, the composition is-- - - Sodium chloride 18.67 - Sodium sulphate 5.63 - Sodium carbonate 2.72 - Potassium carbonate 3.87 - Potassium sulphyrate .04 - Silica .01 - Lime and magnesia traces - Water 68.77 - ------ - 99.71 - -The difference between the total found and 100 is probably accounted for -by small quantities of organic matter. - -The density is 1.2702; using this figure, the results, as expressed in -grains per litre, are:-- - - Sodium chloride 237.15 - " sulphate 61.51 - " carbonate 34.55 - Potassium carbonate 49.16 - " sulphydrate .51 - Silica .12 - ------- - Total salts per litre 383.00 grains. - -When received the sample had an odour of sulphuretted hydrogen, due to -the sulphides present, and a slight pink colour, caused by matter in -suspension. The quantity of the sample was too small to admit of an -examination of this or of the organic matter in the water. - -This water, consisting as it does of a nearly saturated solution, is a -very remarkable one, and a natural water of this composition is very -rarely met with. The presence of sulphides is due to the action of -reducing organisms on the sulphates. The bottle in which the sample was -was quite full, and securely corked for several months. - -A. PAPPE. } _Les Chemistes._ -H. DROOP RICHMOND. } - -"Snow Hill Buildings, London, E.C. - "1st May, 1890. - -"DEAR MR. STANLEY,-- - -"The following is the result of the quantitative analysis of the natural -crystalline salt you submitted to me:-- - - Per cent. - Water .82 - Oxide of iron (Fe_{2}O_{3}) .15 - Potash (K_{2}O) 4.56 - Soda (Na_{2}O) 47.68 - Carbonic acid (CO_{2}) 1.02 - Sulphurous acid (SO_{3}) 6.87 - Chlorine 50.42 - ------ - 111.52 - Less oxygen equivalent to chlorine 11.36 - ------ - 100.16 - -"It is quite impossible to say with certainty how the bases and acids -are combined, but, calculated in the order of their mutual affinities, -the following is the arrangement into which they would naturally fall:-- - - Per cent. - Potassium sulphate 8.43 - Sodium sulphate 5.32 - Sodium carbonate 2.46 - Sodium chloride 82.71 - Oxide of iron .15 - Water .82 - ---- - 99.89 - -"Trusting this may be of service to you, - "I remain yours ever truly, - "HENRY S. WELLCOME." - - "To H. M. Stanley, Esq." - - -[33] By a letter dated November 21st, 1889, written from Bukumbi, south -end of Lake Victoria, I learn from Mr. C. Stokes that he reached -Mwanga's island safely. On his arrival he found that, though in a -tolerably favourable position, food was scarce, and sickness was -troubling the camp. He resolved to make a bold advance to the capital, -and for this purpose requested the chief of the Christians in Uddu to -advance by land. On reaching within one day's march of the capital the -Christians were attacked and in great danger, but Mr. Stokes, Mwanga, -and his faithful followers hurried to their aid, and Karema and the -Mohammedan party were defeated. On the 4th of October another battle -took place close to the capital Rubaga, whereat Karema and his Arab -confederates were completely routed, and on the 5th, Mwanga and his -white friend entered the capital. Karema and his Arab auxiliaries -attempted to take refuge in Unyoro, but Kabba Rega, the King of Unyoro, -refused to admit him unless he parted from his Arab friends. He was -therefore compelled to seize a position near the northern frontier of -Uganda, where he remained at last accounts with 500 guns. So ends this -romantic history for the time. Mwanga is again on his throne, and the -English and French missionaries are again established in Uganda. - -[34] It therefore appears necessary, when speaking of the coloured races -of Inner Africa, to bear in mind that they are now developed into five -distinct types, which may be called Pigmy, Negro, Semi-Ethiopic, -Ethiopic, and Berberine or Mauresque, and that among these types there -are found a number modified by amalgamation of one with another, such as -Pigmy with Negro--producing tribes whose adult males have an average -height of 5 feet 2 inches; Negro with Omani Arabs, as on the Eastern -sea-board; Ethiopic with Arab, as along the littoral in the -neighbourhood of the Jub; Berberine with Negro, as in Darfour, Kordofan, -the herdsmen of the Upper Nile, and east of Sierra Leone. - -I regret that time does not permit me to illustrate what has been stated -above by a map, by which every reader would understand at a glance what -has been effected during fifty centuries by long successive waves of -migration from Asia into Africa. - -[35] While the French priest Pere Girault has publicly and privately -acknowledged the kindness he received, Pere Schintze has, I regret to -say, assumed quite a hostile tone. We received them with open arms, we -supplied them and their people with meat rations daily to the coast. We -paid their tribute to the Wagogo. They were invited to every banquet of -which we partook at Bagamoyo and Zanzibar, and the British -Consul-General, Col. Euan Smith, honoured them with the kindliest -hospitalities. Meanwhile Pere Schintze, by his own account, was taking -advantage of the few querulous remarks of the Pasha, uttered during -moments of suffering from fatigue, to form a breach between the Pasha -and ourselves, by communicating to him certain criticisms reported to be -made by our officers on the character of the refugees, which Emin's -extremely susceptible nature took umbrage at. The impressions I received -from this person have thus been fully verified. - -[36] The Pasha arrived at Zanzibar about the beginning of March, 1890, -perfectly recovered. - -[37] Difficult to distinguish from borro, which translated is man - - -Typographical errors corrected by the etext transcriber: - -voluntered=> volunteered {pg 180} - - - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of In Darkest Africa, Vol. 2; or, The -quest, rescue and retreat of Emin, governor of Equatoria, by Henry Morton Stanley - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK IN DARKEST AFRICA, VOL. 2 *** - -***** This file should be named 43655.txt or 43655.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/4/3/6/5/43655/ - -Produced by Chuck Greif and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by the -Posner Memorial Collection -(http://posner.library.cmu.edu/Posner/)) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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