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You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license - - -Title: In Darkest Africa, Vol. 2; or, The quest, rescue and retreat of Emin, governor of Equatoria - -Author: Henry Morton Stanley - -Release Date: September 9, 2013 [EBook #43655] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK IN DARKEST AFRICA, VOL. 2 *** - - - - -Produced by Chuck Greif and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by the -Posner Memorial Collection -(http://posner.library.cmu.edu/Posner/)) - - - - - - -</pre> - -<hr class="full" /> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="" -style="border: 2px black solid;text-align:center;margin:auto auto;max-width:50%; -padding:1%;"> -<tr><td> -Every attempt has been made to replicate the original as printed.<br /> -Some illustrations have been moved from mid-paragraph for ease of reading.<br /> -The <a href="#FOOTNOTES">footnotes</a> follow the text.<br /> -<span class="nonvis">In certain versions of this etext, in certain browsers, -clicking on this symbol <img class="enlargeimage" src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" -height="14" width="18" /> -will bring up a larger version of the image. The larger -symbol that appears over certain maps <img class="enlargeimage" src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" title="enlarge-image" height="28" width="28" /> -will bring up a very much larger version.</span><br /> -(etext transcriber's note)</td></tr> -</table> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/cover.jpg" width="416" height="500" alt="bookcover" title="" /> -</p> - -<p><a name="FRONT" id="FRONT"></a></p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill-stanley_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/ill-stanley_sml.jpg" width="400" height="575" alt="Henry M. Stanley Signature 1890" -title="Henry M. Stanley Signature 1890" /></a></p> - -<p class="c">COPYRIGHT 1890 BY CHARLES SCRIBNER’S SONS</p> - -<h1>IN -DARKEST -AFRICA</h1> - -<p class="cb">OR THE<br /> -<br /> -QUEST, RESCUE, AND RETREAT OF EMIN<br /> -GOVERNOR OF EQUATORIA<br /> -<br /> -BY<br /> -HENRY M. STANLEY<br /> -<br /> -WITH TWO STEEL ENGRAVINGS, AND ONE HUNDRED AND<br /> -FIFTY ILLUSTRATIONS AND MAPS<br /> -<br /> -IN TWO VOLUMES<br /> -<br /> -<span class="smcap">Vol.</span> II<br /> -<br /> -<small>“I will not cease to go forward until I come to the place where the two seas meet,<br /> -though I travel ninety years.”—<span class="smcap">Koran</span>, chap. xviii., v. 62.</small><br /> -<br /> -NEW YORK<br /> -CHARLES SCRIBNER’S SONS<br /> -1890<br /> -[<i>All rights reserved</i>] -<br /><br /><br /> -<span class="norm"><small><span class="smcap">Copyright, 1890, by</span><br /> -CHARLES SCRIBNER’S SONS<br /> -<br /> -Press of J. J. Little & Co.,<br /> -Astor Place, New York.</small></span></p> - -<h2>CONTENTS OF VOLUME II.</h2> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="" -style="margin: auto auto;max-width:85%;"> - -<tr><th align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXI">CHAPTER XXI.</a></th></tr> - -<tr><th align="center" colspan="2">WE START OUR THIRD JOURNEY TO THE NYANZA.</th></tr> - -<tr><td align="right" colspan="2"><small>PAGE</small></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p class="hang">Mr. Bonny and the Zanzibaris—The Zanzibaris’ complaints—Poison -of the Manioc—Conversations with Ferajji and Salim—We tell -the rear column of the rich plenty of the Nyanza—We wait for -Tippu-Tib at Bungangeta Island—Muster of our second journey -to the Albert—Mr. Jameson’s letter from Stanley Falls dated -August 12th—The flotilla of canoes starts—The Mariri Rapids—Ugarrowwa -and Salim bin Mohammed visit me—Tippu-Tib, -Major Barttelot and the carriers—Salim bin Mohammed—My -answer to Tippu-Tib—Salim and the Manyuema—The settlement -of the Batundu—Small-pox among the Madi carriers and -the Manyuema—Two insane women—Two more Zanzibari -raiders slain—Breach of promises in the Expedition—The -Ababua tribe—Wasp Rapids—Ten of our men killed and eaten -by natives—Canoe accident at Manginni—Lakki’s raiding party -at Mambanga—Feruzi and the bush antelope—Our cook, Jabu, -shot dead by a poisoned arrow—Panga Falls—Further casualties -by the natives—Nejambi Rapids—The poisoned arrows—Mabengu -Rapids—Child-birth on the road—Our sick list—Native -affection—A tornado at Little Rapids—Mr. Bonny -discovers the village of Bavikai—Remarks about Malaria—Emin -Pasha and mosquito curtain—Encounter with the Bavikai -natives—A cloud of moths at Hippo Broads—Death of the boy -Soudi—Incident at Avaiyabu—Result of vaccinating the Zanzibaris—Zanzibari -stung by wasps—Misfortunes at Amiri Rapids—Our -casualities—Collecting food prior to march to Avatiko </p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_001">1</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXII">CHAPTER XXII.</a></th></tr> - -<tr><th align="center" colspan="2">ARRIVAL AT FORT BODO.</th></tr> - -<tr><td><p class="hang">Ugarrowwa’s old station once more—March to Bunda—We cross the -Ituri River—Note written by me opposite the mouth of the -Lenda River—We reach the Avatiko plantations—Mr. Bonny -measures a pigmy—History and dress of the pigmies—A conversation -by gesture—The pigmy’s wife—Monkeys and other -animals in the forest—The clearing of Andaki—Our tattered -clothes—The Ihuru River—Scarcity of food; Amani’s meals—Uledi -searches for food—Missing provisions—We reach Kilonga-Longa’s -village again—More deaths—The forest improves for -travelling—Skirmish near Andikumu—Story of the pigmies and -the box of ammunition—We pass Kakwa Hill—Defeat of a -caravan—The last of the Somalis—A heavy shower of rain—Welcome -food discovery at Indemau—We bridge the Dui -River—A rough muster of the people—A stray goat at our -Ngwetza camp—Further capture of dwarfs—We send back to -Ngwetza for plantains—Loss of my boy Saburi in the forest—We -wonder what has become of the Ngwetza party—My boy Saburi -turns up—Starvation Camp—We go in search of the absentees, -and meet them in the forest—The Ihuru River—And subsequent -arrival at Fort Bodo</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_037">37</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXIII">CHAPTER XXIII.</a></th></tr> - -<tr><th align="center" colspan="2">THE GREAT CENTRAL AFRICAN FOREST.</th></tr> - -<tr><td><p class="hang">Professor Drummond’s statements respecting Africa—Dimensions -of the great forest—Vegetation—Insect life—Description of the -trees, &c.—Tribes and their food—The primæval forest—The -bush proper—The clearings: wonders of vegetable life—The -queer feeling of loneliness—A forest tempest—Tropical vegetation -along the banks of the Aruwimi—Wasps’ nests—The forest -typical of human life—A few secrets of the woods—Game in the -forest—Reasons why we did not hunt the animals—Birds—The -Simian tribe—Reptiles and insects—The small bees and the -beetles—The “jigger”—Night disturbances by falling trees, &c.—The -Chimpanzee—The rainiest zone of the earth—The Ituri -or Upper Aruwimi—The different tribes and their languages—Their -features and customs—Their complexion—Conversation -with some captives at Engweddé—The Wambutti dwarfs: their -dwellings and mode of living—The Batwa dwarfs—Life in the -forest villages—Two Egyptians captured by the dwarfs at Fort -Bodo—The poisons used for the arrows—Our treatment for -wounds by the arrows—The wild fruits of the forest—Domestic -animals—Ailments of the Madis and Zanzibaris—The Congo -Railway and the forest products</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_073">73</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXIV">CHAPTER XXIV.</a></th></tr> - -<tr><th align="center" colspan="2">IMPRISONMENT OF EMIN PASHA AND MR. JEPHSON.</th></tr> - -<tr><td><p class="hang">Our reception at Fort Bodo—Lieut. Stairs’ report of what took place -at the Fort during our relief of the rear column—No news of -Jephson—Muster of our men—We burn the Fort and advance -to find Emin and Jephson—Camp at Kandekoré—Parting -words to Lieut. Stairs and Surgeon Parke, who are left in -charge of the sick—Mazamboni gives us news of Emin and -Jephson—Old Gavira escorts us—Two Wahuma messengers -bring letters from Emin and Jephson—Their contents—My -replies to the same handed to Chief Mogo for delivery—The -Balegga attack us, but, with the help of the Bavira, are repulsed—Mr. -Jephson turns up—We talk of Emin—Jephson’s report -bearing upon the revolt of the troops of Equatoria, also his -views respecting the invasion of the province by the Mahdists, -and its results—Emin Pasha sends through Mr. Jephson an -answer to my last letter</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_112">112</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXV">CHAPTER XXV.</a></th></tr> - -<tr><th align="center" colspan="2">EMIN PASHA AND HIS OFFICERS REACH OUR CAMP AT KAVALLI.</th></tr> - -<tr><td><p class="hang">Lieut. Stairs and his caravan are sent for—Plans regarding the -release of Emin from Tunguru—Conversations with Jephson -by which I acquire a pretty correct idea of the state of affairs—The -rebel officers at Wadelai—They release Emin, and proceed -in the s.s. <i>Khedive</i> and <i>Nyanza</i> to our camp at Kavalli—Emin -Pasha’s arrival—Stairs and his caravan arrive at Mazamboni’s—Characteristic -letter from Jephson, who is sent to bring Emin -and his officers from the Lake to Kavalli—Short note from the -Pasha—Arrival of Emin Pasha’s caravan—We make a grand -display outside our camp—At the grand divan: Selim Bey—Stairs’ -column rolls into camp with piles of wealth—Mr. Bonny -despatched to the Nyanza to bring up baggage—Text of my -message to the rest of the revolted officers at Wadelai—Note -from Mr. Bonny—The Greek merchant, Signor Marco, arrives—Suicide -of Zanzibari named Mrima—Neighbouring chiefs supply -us with carriers—Captain Nelson brings in Emin’s baggage—Arrangements -with the chiefs from the Ituri River to the -Nyanza—The chief Kabba-Rega—Emin Pasha’s daughter—Selim -Bey receives a letter from Fadl-el-Mulla—The Pasha -appointed naturalist and meteorologist to the Expedition—The -Pasha a Materialist—Dr. Hassan’s arrival—My inspection over -the camp—Capt. Casati arrives—Mr. Bonny appears with -Awash Effendi and his baggage—The rarest doctor in the world—Discovery -of some chimpanzees—The Pasha in his vocation of -“collecting”—Measurements of the dwarfs—Why I differ with -Emin in the judgment of his men—Various journeys from the -camp to the Lake for men and baggage—The Zanzibaris’ -complaints of the ringleaders—Hassan Bakari—The Egyptian -officers—Interview with Shukri Agha—The flora on the Baregga -Hills—The chief of Usiri joins our confederacy—Conversation -with Emin regarding Selim Bey and Shukri Agha—Address by -me to Stairs, Nelson, Jephson and Parke before Emin Pasha—Their -replies—Notices to Selim Bey and Shukri Agha</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_139">139</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXVI">CHAPTER XXVI.</a></th></tr> - -<tr><th align="center" colspan="2">WE START HOMEWARD FOR ZANZIBAR.</th></tr> - -<tr><td><p class="hang">False reports of strangers at Mazamboni’s—Some of the Pasha’s -ivory—Osman Latif Effendi gives me his opinions on the -Wadelai officers—My boy Sali as spy in the camp—Capt. -Casati’s views of Emin’s departure from his province—Lieut. -Stairs makes the first move homeward—Weights of my officers -at various places—Ruwenzori visible—The little girl reared by -Casati—I act as mediator between Mohammed Effendi, his -wife, and Emin—Bilal and Serour—Attempts to steal rifles -from the Zanzibari’s huts—We hear of disorder and distress -at Wadelai and Mswa—Two propositions made to Emin Pasha—Signal -for general muster under arms sounded—Emin’s Arabs -are driven to muster by the Zanzibaris—Address to the -Egyptians and Soudanese—Lieut. Stairs brings the Pasha’s -servants into the square—Serour and three others, being the -principal conspirators, placed under guard—Muster of Emin -Pasha’s followers—Osman Latif Effendi and his mother—Casati -and Emin not on speaking terms—Preparing for the march—Fight -with clubs between the Nubian, Omar, and the Zanzibaris—My -judgments on the combatants—We leave Kavalli for -Zanzibar—The number of our column—Halt in Mazamboni’s -territory—I am taken ill with inflammation of the stomach—Dr. -Parke’s skilful nursing—I plan in my mind the homeward -march—Frequent reports to me of plots in the camp—Lieut. -Stairs and forty men capture Rehan and twenty-two deserters -who left with our rifles—At a holding of the court it is agreed -to hang Rehan—Illness of Surgeon Parke and Mr. Jephson—A -packet of letters intended for Wadelai falls into my hands, -and from which we learn of an important plot concocted by -Emin’s officers—Conversation with Emin Pasha about the -same—Shukri Agha arrives in our camp with two followers—Lieut. -Stairs buries some ammunition—We continue our march -and camp at Bunyambiri—Mazamboni’s services and hospitality—Three -soldiers appear with letters from Selim Bey—Their -contents—Conversation with the soldiers—They take a letter to -Selim Bey from Emin—Ali Effendi and his servants accompany -the soldiers back to Selim Bey</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_182">182</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXVII">CHAPTER XXVII.</a></th></tr> - -<tr><th align="center" colspan="2">EMIN PASHA—A STUDY.</th></tr> - -<tr><td><p class="hang">The Relief of David Livingstone compared with the Relief of Emin -Pasha—Outline of the journey of the Expedition to the first meeting -with Emin—Some few points relating to Emin on which we -had been misinformed—Our high conception of Emin Pasha—Loyalty -of the troops, and Emin’s extreme indecision—Surprise -at finding Emin a prisoner on our third return to the Nyanza—What -might have been averted by the exercise of a little frankness -and less reticence on Emin’s part—Emin’s virtues and noble -desires—The Pasha from our point of view—Emin’s rank and -position in Khartoum, and gradual rise to Governor of Equatoria—Gordon’s -trouble in the Soudan—Emin’s consideration and -patience—After 1883 Emin left to his own resources—Emin’s -small explorations—Correctness of what the Emperor Hadrian -wrote of the Egyptians—The story of Emin’s struggles with the -Mahdi’s forces from 1883 to 1885—Dr. Junker takes Emin’s -despatches to Zanzibar in 1886—Kabba Rega a declared enemy -of Emin—The true position of Emin Pasha prior to his relief by -us, showing that good government was impossible—Two documents -(one from Osman Digna, and the other from Omar Saleh) -received from Sir Francis Grenfell, the Sirdar</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_228">228</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXVIII">CHAPTER XXVIII.</a></th></tr> - -<tr><th align="center" colspan="2">TO THE ALBERT EDWARD NYANZA.</th></tr> - -<tr><td><p class="hang">Description of the road from Bundegunda—We get a good view of -the twin peaks in the Ruwenzori range—March to Utinda—The -Pasha’s officers abuse the officer in command: which compels -a severe order—Kaibuga urges hostilities against Uhobo—Brush -with the enemy: Casati’s servant, Akili, killed—Description -of the Ruwenzori range as seen from Mboga—Mr. -Jephson still an invalid—The little stowaway named Tukabi—Captain -Nelson examines the Semliki for a suitable ferry—We -reach the Semliki river: description of the same—Uledi and -Saat Tato swim across the river for a canoe—A band of Wara -Sura attack us—All safely ferried across the river—In the -Awamba forest—Our progress to Baki-kundi—We come across -a few Baundwé, forest aborigines—the Egyptians and their -followers—Conversation with Emin Pasha—Unexplored parts of -Africa—Abundance of food—Ruwenzori from the spur of -Ugarama—Two native women give us local information—We -find an old man at Batuma—At Bukoko we encounter some -Manyuema raiders: their explanation—From Bakokoro we -arrive at Mtarega, the foot of the Ruwenzori range—Lieutenant -Stairs with some men explore the Mountains of the Moon—Report -of Lieutenant Stairs’ experiences—The Semliki valley—The -Rami-lulu valley—The perfection of a tropical forest—Villages -in the clearing of Ulegga—Submission of a Ukonju -chief—Local knowledge from our friends the Wakonju—Description -of the Wakonju tribe—The Semliki river—View of -Ruwenzori from Mtsora—We enter Muhamba, and next day -camp at Karimi—Capture of some fat cattle of Rukara’s—the -Zeriba of Rusessé—Our first view of Lake Albert Edward -Nyanza</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_250">250</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXIX">CHAPTER XXIX.</a></th></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">THE SOURCES OF THE NILE—THE MOUNTAINS OF THE MOON, -AND THE FOUNTAINS OF THE NILE.</td></tr> - -<tr><td><p class="hang">Père Jerome Lobo and the Nile—The chartographers of Homer’s time—Hekatæus’s -ideas of Africa—Africa after Hipparchus—The -great Ptolemy’s map—Edrisi’s map—Map of the Margarita -Philosophica—Map of John Ruysch—Sylvannus’ map—Sebastian -Cabot’s map—The arbitrariness of the modern map maker—Map -of Constable, Edinburgh—What Hugh Murray says in his book -published in 1818—A fine dissertation on the Nile by Father -Lobo—Extracts from part of a MS. in the possession of H. E. Ali -Pasha Moubarek—Plan of Mount Gumr—A good description of -Africa by Scheabeddin—The Nile according to Abdul Hassen -Ali—Abu Abd Allah Mohammed on the Nile river</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_291">291</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXX">CHAPTER XXX.</a></th></tr> - -<tr><th align="center" colspan="2">RUWENZORI: THE CLOUD KING.</th></tr> - -<tr><td><p class="hang">Recent travellers who have failed to see this range—Its classical history—The -range of mountains viewed from Pisgah by us in -1887—The twin cones and snowy mountain viewed by us in -1888 and January 1889—Description of the range—The Semliki -valley—A fair figurative description of Ruwenzori—The -principal drainage of the snowy range—The luxurious productive -region known as Awamba forest or the Semliki valley—Shelter -from the winds—Curious novelties in plants in Awamba -forest—The plains between Mtsora and Muhamba—Changes of -climate and vegetation on nearing the hills constituting the -southern flank of Ruwenzori—The north-west and west side of -Ruwenzori—Emotions raised in us at the sight of Ruwenzori—The -reason why so much snow is retained on Ruwenzori—The -ascending fields of snow and great tracts of <i>débris</i>—Brief views -of the superb Rain Creator or Cloud King—Impression made on -all of us by the skyey crests and snowy breasts of Ruwenzori</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_313">313</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXXI">CHAPTER XXXI.</a></th></tr> - -<tr><th align="center" colspan="2">RUWENZORI AND LAKE ALBERT EDWARD.</th></tr> - -<tr><td><p class="hang">Importance of maps in books of travels—The time spent over my -maps—The dry bed of a lake discovered near Karimi; its computed -size—Lessons acquired in this wonderful region—What -we learn by observation from the Semliki valley to the basin of -the twin lakes—Extensive plain between Rusessé and Katwé—The -Zeribas of euphorbia of Wasongora—The raid of the Waganda -made eighteen years ago—The grass and water on the -wide expanses of flats—The last view and southern face of -Ruwenzori—The town of Katwé—The Albert Edward Nyanza—Analysis -of the brine obtained from the Salt Lake at Katwé—Surroundings -of the Salt Lake—The blood tints of its waters—The -larger Salt Lake of Katwé, sometimes called Lake of Mkiyo—The -great repute of the Katwé salt—The Lakists of the Albert -Edward—Bevwa, on our behalf, makes friends with the natives—Kakuri -appears with some Wasongora chiefs—Exploration of -the large Katwé lake—Kaiyura’s settlement—Katwé Bay—A -black leopard—The native huts at Mukungu—We round an -arm of the lake called Beatrice Gulf, and halt at Muhokya—Ambuscade -by some of the Wara-Sura, near the Rukoki: we -put them to flight—And capture a Mhuma woman—Captain -Nelson and men follow up the rear guard of Rukara—Halt at -Buruli: our Wakonju and Wasongora friends leave us—Sickness -amongst us through bad water—The Nsongi River crossed—Capture -of a Wara-Sura—Illness and death among the Egyptians -and blacks—Our last engagement with the Wara-Sura at -Kavandaré pass—Bulemo-Ruigi places his country at our -disposal—The Pasha’s muster roll—Myself and others are -smitten down with fever at Katari Settlement—The south side -of Lake Albert Edward and rivers feeding the Lake—Our first -and last view, also colour of the Lake—What we might have -seen if the day had been clearer</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_334">334</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXXII">CHAPTER XXXII.</a></th></tr> - -<tr><th align="center" colspan="2">THROUGH ANKORI TO THE ALEXANDRA NILE.</th></tr> - -<tr><td><p class="hang">The routes to the sea, <i>viâ</i> Uganda, through Ankori, to Ruanda -and thence to Tanganika—We decide on the Ankori route—We -halt at Kitété, and are welcomed in the name of King Antari—Entertained -by Masakuma and his women—A glad message -from King Antari’s mother—Two Waganda Christians, named -Samuel and Zachariah, appear in camp: Zachariah relates a -narrative of astounding events which had occurred in Uganda—Mwanga, -King of Uganda; his behaviour—Our people recovering -from the fever epidemic—March up the valley between Iwanda -and Denny Range—We camp at Wamaganga—Its inhabitants—The -Rwizi River crossed—Present from the king’s mother—The -feelings of the natives provoked by scandalous practices of some -of my men—An incident illustrating the different views men -take of things—Halt at the valley of Rusussu—Extract from my -diary—We continue our journey down Namianja Valley—The -peaceful natives turn on us, but are punished by Prince -Uchunku’s men—I go through the rite of blood-brotherhood -with Prince Uchunku—The Prince’s wonder at the Maxim gun—A -second deputation from the Waganda Christians: my long -cross-examination of them: extract from my journal—My -answer to the Christians—We enter the valley of Mavona—And -come in sight of the Alexandra Valley—The Alexandra Nile</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_358">358</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXXIII">CHAPTER XXXIII.</a></th></tr> - -<tr><th align="center" colspan="2">THE TRIBES OF THE GRASS-LAND.</th></tr> - -<tr><td><p class="hang">The Wahuma: the exact opposite of the Dwarfs: their descendants—Tribes -nearly allied to the true negro type—Tribes of the -Nilotic basin—The Herdsmen—The traditions of Unyoro—My -experiences of the Wahuma gained while at Kavalli—View of -the surrounding country from Kavalli camp—Chiefs Kavalli, -Katto, and Gavira, unbosom their wrongs to me—Old Ruguji’s -reminiscences—The pasture-land lying between Lake Albert and -the forest—The cattle in the district round Kavalli: their milk-yield—Three -cases referring to cattle which I am called upon to -adjudicate—Household duties of the women—Dress among the -Wahuma—Old Egyptian and Ethiopian characteristics preserved -among the tribes of the grass-land—Customs, habits, and religion -of the tribes—Poor Gaddo suspected of conspiracy against his -chief, Kavalli: his death—Diet of the Wahuma—The climate of -the region of the grass-land</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_384">384</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXXIV">CHAPTER XXXIV.</a></th></tr> - -<tr><th align="center" colspan="2">TO THE ENGLISH MISSION STATION, SOUTH END OF VICTORIA NYANZA.</th></tr> - -<tr><td><p class="hang">Ankori and Karagwé under two aspects—Karagwé; and the Alexandra -Nile—Mtagata Hot Springs—A baby rhinoceros, captured -by the Nubians, shows fight in camp—Disappearance of Wadi -Asmani—The Pasha’s opinion of Capt. Casati—Surgeon Parke -and the pigmy damsel—Conduct of a boy pigmy—Kibbo-bora -loses his wife at the Hot Springs—Arrival at Kufurro—Recent -kings of Karagwé—Kiengo and Captain Nelson’s resemblance to -“Speke”—The King of Uganda greatly dreaded in Karagwé—Ndagara -refuses to let our sick stay in his country—Camp at -Uthenga: loss of men through the cold—We throw superfluous -articles in Lake Urigi in order to carry the sick—We enter the -district of Ihangiro: henceforward our food has to be purchased—the -Lake of Urigi—At the village of Mutara, Fath-el-Mullah -runs amuck with the natives, and is delivered over to them—The -Unyamatundu plateau—Halt at Ngoti: Mwengi their -chief—Kajumba’s territory—We obtain a good view of Lake -Victoria—The country round Kisaho—Lions and human skulls -in the vicinity of our camp—The events of 1888 cleared our -track for a peaceful march to the sea—We reach Amranda and -Bwanga—The French missionaries and their stations at Usambiro—Arrival -at Mr. Mackay’s, the English Mission station—Mr. -Mackay and his books—We rest, and replenish our stores, -etc.—Messrs. Mackay and Deakes give us a sumptuous dinner -previous to our departure—The last letter from Mr. A. M. -Mackay, dated January 5, 1890</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_404">404</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXXV">CHAPTER XXXV.</a></th></tr> - -<tr><th align="center" colspan="2">FROM THE VICTORIA NYANZA TO ZANZIBAR.</th></tr> - -<tr><td><p class="hang">Missionary work along the shores of the Victoria Nyanza and along -the Congo river—The road from Mackay’s Mission—The country -at Gengé—Considerable difficulty at preserving the peace at -Kungu—Rupture of peace at Ikoma—Capture and release of -Monangwa—The Wasukuma warriors attack us, but finally retire—Treachery—The -natives follow us from Nera to Seké—We -enter the district of Sinyanga; friendship between the natives -and our men—Continued aggression of the natives—Heavy -tributes—Massacre of caravan—The district of Usongo, and its -chief Mittinginya—His surroundings and neighbours—Two -French missionaries overtake us—Human skulls at Ikungu—We -meet one of Tippu-Tib’s caravans from Zanzibar—Troubled -Ugogo—Lieutenant Schmidt welcomes us at the German station -of Mpwapwa—Emin Pasha visits the Pères of the French -Mission of San Esprit—The Fathers unacquainted with Emin’s -repute—Our mails in Africa continually going astray—Contents -of some newspaper clippings—Baron von Gravenreuth and -others meet us at Msua—Arrival of an Expedition with -European provisions, clothing and boots for us—Major Wissman—He -and Schmidt take Emin and myself on to Bagamoyo—Dinner -and guests at the German officer’s mess house—Major -Wissman proposes the healths of the guests; Emin’s and my -reply to the same—Emin’s accident—I visit Emin in the -hospital—Surgeon Parke’s report—The feeling at Bagamoyo—Embark -for Zanzibar—Parting words with Emin Pasha—Illness -of Doctor Parke—Emin Pasha enters the service of the -German Government—Emin Pasha’s letter to Sir John Kirk—Sudden -termination of Emin’s acquaintance with me—Three -occasions when I apparently offended Emin—Emin’s fears that -he would be unemployed—The British East African Company -and Emin—Courtesy and hospitality at Zanzibar—Monies due -to the survivors of the Relief Expedition—Tippu-Tib’s agent -at Zanzibar, Jaffar Tarya—The Consular Judge grants me an -injunction against Jaffar Tarya—At Cairo—Conclusion</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_432">432</a></td></tr> -</table> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="1" cellspacing="0" summary=""> - -<tr><th align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#APPENDICES">APPENDICES</a>.</th></tr> - -<tr><td><a href="#APPENDIX_A">A</a>.—</td><td><span class="smcap">Congratulations by Cable received at Zanzibar</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_481">481</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><a href="#APPENDIX_B">B</a>.—</td><td><span class="smcap">Comparative Tables of Forest and Grass-land Languages</span> </td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_490">490</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><a href="#APPENDIX_C_FROM_THE_ATLANTIC_TO_THE_INDIAN_OCEAN">C</a>.—</td><td><span class="smcap">Itinerary of the Journeys made in 1887, 1888, 1889</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_496">496</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><a href="#APENDIX_D">D</a>.—</td><td><span class="smcap">Balance Sheet, &c., of the Relief Expedition</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_513">513</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td></td><td><span class="smcap"><a href="#GENERAL_INDEX">General Index</a></span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_515">515</a></td></tr> -</table> - -<h2>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.<br /> -<br />VOLUME II.</h2> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary=""> - -<tr><th align="center" colspan="2"><i>STEEL ENGRAVING.</i></th></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Portrait of Henry M. Stanley</span></td> -<td align="right"><i><a href="#FRONT">Frontispiece</a>.</i></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">(From a Photograph taken at Cairo, March, 1890.)</td></tr> - -<tr><th align="center" colspan="2"><i>FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS.</i></th></tr> - -<tr><td align="right" colspan="2"><small>Facing<br /> -page</small></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Swords and Knives of the Ababua</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_022">22</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Entering Andikumu</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_050">50</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">The Scouts Discover the Pigmies Carrying away the Case of -Ammunition</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_054">54</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Starvation Camp: Serving out Milk and Butter for Broth</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_066">66</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">A Page from Mr. Stanley’s Note-Book—Sketch-Maps</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_094">94</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">The Pigmies at Home—A Zanzibar Scout Taking Notes</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_104">104</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Address to Rebel Officers at Kavalli</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_148">148</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">The Pigmies as Compared with the English Officers, Soudanese, -and Zanzibaris</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_152">152</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">The Pigmies under the Lens, as Compared to Captain Casati’s -Servant Okili</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_164">164</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Climbing the Plateau Slopes</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_170">170</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Rescued Egyptians and Their Families</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_220">220</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Ruwenzori, from Kavalli’s</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_252">252</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Ruwenzori, from Mtsora</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_286">286</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Bird’s-Eye View of Ruwenzori, Lake Albert Edward, and Lake -Albert</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_318">318</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Ruwenzori, from Karimi</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_328">328</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Expedition Winding up the Gorge of Karya-Muhoro</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_362">362</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">A Page from Mr. Stanley’s Note-Book—Musical Instruments</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_396">396</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Weapons of the Balegga and Wahuma Tribes</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_400">400</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Baby Rhinoceros Showing Fight in Camp</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_406">406</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">South-West Extremity of Lake Victoria Nyanza</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_419">419</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Stanley, Emin, and Officers at Usambiro</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_425">425</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Experiences in Usukuma</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_438">438</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Banquet at Msua</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_450">450</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Under the Palms at Bagamoyo</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_454">454</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">The Relief Expedition Returning to Zanzibar</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_462">462</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">The Faithfuls at Zanzibar</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_474">474</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th align="center" colspan="2"><i>OTHER ILLUSTRATIONS.</i></th></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">A Swimming Race after a Bush Antelope</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_025">25</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Dwarf Captive at Avitako</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_041">41</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Bridging the Dui River</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_060">60</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Two-Edged Spears</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_099">99</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Play-Table</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_099">99</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Back-Rest and Stool</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_099">99</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Decorated Earthen Pot</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_099">99</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Arrows of the Dwarfs</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_101">101</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Elephant Trap</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_102">102</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">A Belle of Bavira</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_130">130</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">View of Camp at Kavalli</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_140">140</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Shukri Agha, Commandant of Mswa Station</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_173">173</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Sali, Head-Boy</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_185">185</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">An Ancient Egyptian Lady</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_207">207</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Attack by the Wanyoro at Semliki Ferry</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_260">260</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Houses on the Edge of the Forest</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_264">264</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Egyptian Women and Children</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_266">266</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">The Tallest Peak of Ruwenzori, from Awamba Forest</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_274">274</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">South-West Twin Cones of Ruwenzori—Sketch. By Lieut. Stairs</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_278">278</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap"><a name="FNanchor_1_1" id="FNanchor_1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a>Africa in Homer’s World</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_293">293</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">“ </span><span class="smcap">Map of Hekatæus</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_294">294</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">“ </span><span class="smcap">Hipparchus, 100 b.c.</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_295">295</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Ptolemy’s Map of Africa, a.d. 150</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_295">295</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Central Africa according to Edrisi, a.d. 1154</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_296">296</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Map of the Margarita Philosophica, a.d. 1503</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_296">296</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ </span><span class="smcap">John Ruysch, a.d. 1508</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_297">297</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Map, Sylvanus', a.d. 1511</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_297">297</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Hieronimus de Verrazano’s Map, a.d. 1529</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_298">298</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Sebastian Cabot’s Map of the World, 16th Century</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_298">298</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">The Nile’s Sources According to Geographers of the 16th and 17th Centuries</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_299">299</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Map of the Nile Basin, a.d. 1819</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_301">301</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Mountains of the Moon—Massoudi, 11th Century</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_308">308</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Map of Nile Basin to-day from the Mediterranean to S. Lat. 4°</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_311">311</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">View of Ruwenzori from Bakokoro Western Cones</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_326">326</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">The Little Salt Lake at Katwé</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_342">342</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Section of a House near Lake Albert Nyanza</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_348">348</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">A Village in Ankori</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_361">361</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Expedition Climbing the Rock in the Valley of Ankori</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_362">362</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Musical Instruments of the Balegga</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_399">399</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">A Hot Spring, Mtagata</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_406">406</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Lake Urigi</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_415">415</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span class="smcap">View from Mackay’s Mission, Lake Victoria</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_428">428</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Rock Hills, Usambiro</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_437">437</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">House and Balcony from which Emin Fell</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_454">454</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Sketch of Casket containing the Freedom of the City of London</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_488">488</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Sketch of Casket, the Gift of King Leopold</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_489">489</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th align="center" colspan="2"><i>MAPS.</i></th></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">A Map of the Route of the Emin Pasha Relief Expedition through Africa.</span></td> -<td align="right"><a href="#POCKET1"><i>In Pocket.</i></a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">A Map of Emin Pasha’s Province.</span></td> -<td align="right"><a href="#POCKET2"><i>In Pocket.</i></a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Profile Sketch of Ruwenzori and the Valley of the Semliki.</span> -</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_335"><i>Facing page 335</i></a></td></tr> - -</table> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_001" id="page_001"></a>{1}</span></p> - -<h1>IN -DARKEST -AFRICA.</h1> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXI" id="CHAPTER_XXI"></a>CHAPTER XXI.<br /><br /> -<small>WE START OUR THIRD JOURNEY TO THE NYANZA.</small></h2> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hangg">Mr. Bonny and the Zanzibaris—The Zanzibaris’ complaints—Poison of -the Manioc—Conversations with Ferajji and Salim—We tell the rear -column of the rich plenty of the Nyanza—We wait for Tippu-Tib at -Bungangeta Island—Muster of our second journey to the Albert—Mr. -Jameson’s letter from Stanley Falls dated August 12th—The flotilla -of canoes starts—The Mariri rapids—Ugarrowwa and Salim bin -Mohammed visit me—Tippu-Tib, Major Barttelot, and the -carriers—Salim bin Mohammed—My answer to Tippu-Tib—Salim and the -Manyuema—The settlement of the Batundu—Small-pox among the Madi -carriers and the Manyuema—Two insane women—Two more Zanzibari -raiders slain—Breach of promises in the Expedition—The Ababua -tribe—Wasp Rapids—Ten of our men killed and eaten by -natives—Canoe accident at Manginni—Lakki’s raiding party at -Mambanga—Feruzi and the bush antelope—Our cook, Jabu, shot dead -by a poisoned arrow—Panga Falls—Further casualties by the -natives—Nejambi Rapids—The poisoned arrows—Mabengu -Rapids—Child-birth on the road—Our sick list—Native affection—A -tornado at Little Rapids—Mr. Bonny discovers the village of -Bavikai—Remarks about Malaria—Emin Pasha and mosquito -curtain—Encounter with the Bavikai natives—A cloud of moths at -Hippo Broads—Death of the boy Soudi—Incident at Avaiyabu—Result -of vaccinating the Zanzibaris—Zanzibari stung by -wasps—Misfortunes at Amiri Rapids—Our casualties—Collecting food -prior to march to Avatiko.</p></div> - -<div class="sidenote">1888.<br />Aug. 21.<br />Bavabya.</div> - -<p>That uncanny concurrence of circumstances, illustrated by the contents -of the last chapter, was recalled to my mind again on the next morning -which dawned on us after the arrival of the advance column at Bavabya.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1888.<br />Aug. 21.<br />Forest.</div> - -<p>In Mr. Bonny’s entry in the log-book will be found mentioned that the -Soudanese and Zanzibaris mustered of their own accord to lay their -complaints before me.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_002" id="page_002"></a>{2}</span> Mr. Bonny, in his official report, had stated it -was his intention, “under God’s help, to make the Expedition more -successful than it had been hitherto.” By his written report, and his -oral accounts, by the brave deliberation of his conduct during the -terrible hours of the 19th July, and by the touching fidelity to his -duties, as though every circumstance of his life was precisely what it -ought to be, Mr. Bonny had leaped at a bound, in my estimation, to a -most admiring height. I was sure, also, that Major Barttelot must have -discovered remarkable elements of power in him, which, unfortunately for -my credit, had been unseen by me. But no sooner had permission been -given to the men to speak, than I was amazed at finding himself -listening to a confession that the first day’s march to the eastward -under Mr. Bonny was to be the signal for his total abandonment by the -Zanzibaris.</p> - -<p>I gave them a patient hearing. Only sixty seemed in any way likely to -survive the trials they had endured out of the 101 or 102 remaining. -They all appeared unutterably miserable, many seemed heart-broken, but -there were several whose looks suggested a fixed hate, malice, and -spite.</p> - -<p>“Well, sit down, children,” said I, “and let us talk this matter -quietly,” and when they had seated themselves in a semi-circle before -me, and our own robust people from the Nyanza had crowded about behind, -I addressed them thus:—</p> - -<p>“Ah, my poor men, the days of weeping and grieving are over. Dry your -tears and be glad. See those stout fellows behind you. They have seen -the white Pasha, they have shared his bounties of meat, and milk and -millet, and have heard him praise their manliness. They are the people -who should weep, but weep for gladness, for every step hence is one step -nearer to Zanzibar. We came back from the Nyanza to seek you who were so -long lost to us. We have found you, thanks be to God! Now, let bygones -be bygones. I cannot restore the dead, but I can rejoice the hearts of -the living. Think no more of your sufferings, but live in<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_003" id="page_003"></a>{3}</span> hope of a -brighter future. It was necessary for us to go before you, to clear the -road and assist the white man before he perished. We told you all this -before we departed from you. You should have remembered our promise that -as soon as we had found him whom we sought we should come back with the -good news to you. We have kept our word—have you kept yours?</p> - -<p>“No, you lost your faith in us. When the runaways from our party -returned to you, and they, with gaping mouths, told you what was false -to hide their crime of desertion, you listened with wide-open ears, and -accepted their tales as truths. Did they bring a letter from any of us? -No! but you found silver watches, and Arab cloaks striped with gold in -their baggage. Do common carriers find such things in the forest? If -they do, then you should have said to them, ‘Come, turn back with us, -and show us the place where we may also find such wealth.’ Those -carriers had stolen those things from us, and had run away with their -booty. You saw these things, and yet you believed that we were all -destroyed, that I was shot in seventeen places, and all the white men -except one had been killed, and the one remaining had gone to Ujiji! Oh, -men of little wit!</p> - -<p>“What, nearly 400 Zanzibaris, and six white men, all lost except a few, -and those few gone to Ujiji instead of coming to you, their brothers and -friends! That is too much for belief. I thought Zanzibaris were wiser -men, for truly I have seen wise ones in my time.</p> - -<p>“And if I were not dead, how came you to believe that I would forget -you, and my white sons whom I left with you. Whither could I go, except -to my own children if I were distressed or unable to go on? Was not the -fact of our long absence a proof that we were still going on doing our -work, since even deserters and thieves had nowhere to flee except back -to you?</p> - -<p>“Aye, I see well how it has happened unto you. You lay on your backs -rotting in camp, and have been brooding and thinking until the jiggers -have burrowed into your brains, and Shaitan has caused you to dream of -evil and death. You became hardened in mind, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_004" id="page_004"></a>{4}</span> cruel to your own -bodies. Instead of going to the little masters, and telling them of your -griefs and fears, you have said Mambu Kwa Mungu—it is God’s trouble. -Our masters don’t care for us, and we don’t care for them.</p> - -<p>“Now, Ferajji, you are a head man, tell me what cause of complaint in -particular you have. Did the white men ill-treat you?”</p> - -<p>“No, they treated me well; but they were hard on some of the men.”</p> - -<p>“How hard, and on whom?”</p> - -<p>“On the Zanzibaris, and if they were not <i>chap-a-chap</i> (active).”</p> - -<p>“But what did they wish to be <i>chap-a-chap</i> for? Had you important work -to do?”</p> - -<p>“No, for when the steamer went away there was little to do. Only fixing -the earth work, sweep camp, cut fuel, and stand guard at night. But the -<i>goee-goees</i> (lazy or useless) would not come when called. Then the -white men got impatient, and would call again louder. Then the -<i>goee-goees</i> would come slowly—lazily—little by little, and say they -had pains in the head, or in the body, back, chest, or feet. Then the -masters would get angry, and say it was shamming. Every day it was the -same thing.”</p> - -<p>“But how could sweeping camp, getting fuel, and standing guard be hard -work for 250 people?”</p> - -<p>“It was no work at all.”</p> - -<p>“Was anybody else punished except the <i>goee goees</i>?”</p> - -<p>“No one except the thieves.”</p> - -<p>“Did you have many of them?”</p> - -<p>“I think all the thieves of Zanzibar joined the ‘journey-makers’ this -time.”</p> - -<p>“That cannot be, Ferajji, because we had some thieves with us, and there -must have been a few left on the coast.”</p> - -<p>The audience laugh. Ferajji replied, “That is indeed truth, but we had a -great many. Brass rods, cowries, and garments were lost daily. -Zanzibaris accused Soudanese, Soudanese accused Somalis, Somalis accused -Zanzibaris, and so it went round. Nothing was safe.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_005" id="page_005"></a>{5}</span> Put anything under -your pillow, roll it under the sleeping-mat, bind it tight, and make it -into a headrest, and lo! in the morning it was gone! Indeed, I became -afraid my teeth would be stolen next.”</p> - -<p>“But those white teeth of yours are not purchased, are they, Ferajji?”</p> - -<p>“No, thank Allah, they were born with me, but those who thrive on -thieving may well be feared.”</p> - -<p>“That is true, Ferajji; but why should they have stolen all the time?”</p> - -<p>“Hunger made them steal. Hunger killed the strong lion in the fable, and -hunger will kill the best man.”</p> - -<p>“Hunger! what are you talking of. Hunger, with all those fields of -manioc near here?”</p> - -<p>“Manioc, master! Manioc will do for a time, but manioc with sauce is -better.”</p> - -<p>“Sauce! I don’t understand you, Ferajji?”</p> - -<p>“Why, dry manioc—that is manioc with nothing but itself—manioc in the -morning, and at noon, and at the sunset meal, and nothing but eternal -manioc, with neither salt, nor fish, nor meat, nor oil, nor butter, nor -fat of any kind to assist its passage down the gullet, is apt to cloy. -Give the appetite something now and then new to smell, or see with the -manioc, and the Zanzibari is satisfied. Without that the stomach -by-and-by shuts the door, and won’t take anything, and men die.”</p> - -<p>“I see, but I left salt in the storeroom. It was to purchase fish, -bananas and palm oil that the brass rods, cowries and beads were for.”</p> - -<p>“Ah, now you are drawing near the point, master. Sometimes—nay, we were -a long time without either.”</p> - -<p>“But if they were in the store, surely there must be some reason why -they were not given out?”</p> - -<p>“We come to the thieves again, who became so active that they sold our -axes and bill-hooks, and sold them to the natives for fish. Those who -shared in the fish refused to tell who the thieves were, and our rations -of cowries and brass rods were stopped.”</p> - -<p>“After all, Ferajji, though manioc by itself is very dry eating, it is -very good food. Think of it, all the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_006" id="page_006"></a>{6}</span> blacks from Banana to Stanley -Falls live on it, why should not Zanzibaris of this expedition live on -it as they lived during six years on the Congo with me. I cannot see any -reason for manioc to kill 100 men in eleven months. Tell me when did the -people begin to sicken.”</p> - -<p>“There were about a dozen sick when you left, sick of ulcers, bowel and -chest complaints. A few recovered; then, in about four weeks, many got -very feeble, and some sank lower and thinner until they died, and we -buried them. When our friends came up from Bolobo, we thought they -looked very different from us at Yambuya. They were stout and strong—we -were thin and dying. Then, in another month, the men from Bolobo began -to sicken and die, and every few days we buried one, or two, or even -three at a time. There was no difference after a while between the -Yambuya and Bolobo men.”</p> - -<p>“Had you any cholera, small-pox, fever, or dysentery among you?”</p> - -<p>“No, the men did not die of any of those things. Perhaps the Somalis and -Soudanese did not take kindly to the climate, but it was not the climate -that killed the Zanzibaris. Oh——”</p> - -<p>“And you say it was not by the stick, or hard work, or cholera, -small-pox, fever, dysentery or climate?”</p> - -<p>“Nothing of any of those things killed the Zanzibaris.”</p> - -<p>“Were they shot, or hanged, poisoned, or drowned?”</p> - -<p>“Neither was any of those things done unto them, and a proper and good -man was never punished, and we had one day out of seven in the week to -ourselves.”</p> - -<p>“Now in the name of the Prophet Mohammed—throw your eyesight on these -forty men here who sit apart. Look at those big eyes, hollow cheeks, -thin necks, and every rib bare to the view. You see them? What has -caused those men to be thus?”</p> - -<p>“God knows!”</p> - -<p>“Yet they are wasting away, man, and they will die.”</p> - -<p>“It is true.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_007" id="page_007"></a>{7}</span>”</p> - -<p>“Well, then, give me some idea—of what is killing them?”</p> - -<p>“I cannot tell you, master; may be it is their fate to be thus.”</p> - -<p>“Bah! God has done His best for you. He has given you eyes, hands to -feel, feet to walk, a good stomach to digest your food, and a sense to -pilot your path through the world. Don’t say that God made strong men to -wither them away in this manner. I must and will find the reason of this -out.</p> - -<p>“Now, you Salim, the son of Rashid, speak to me. The son of a wise -father should know a few wise things. There is Death among you, and I -want to find out why. Say, how you and your comrades living in camp for -a year can lose more lives than we did during all our journey, through -this big forest, despite all the hunger and hard work we met?”</p> - -<p>Salim thus urged, replied modestly: “I am not wise, and all the world -knows it. I am but a youth, and a porter, who for a little wage has come -to gather a little money by carrying my load through Pagan lands. What -strength I have I give freely to the owner of the caravan. Bitter things -have happened to us while you were away. I have lost a brother since I -came here. You must know, sir, that dry manioc and water is not good for -a son of Adam. If our friends and relatives have sickened, and died—it -must surely be that the manioc has had something to do with it. Thank -God, I am well, and still strong, but I have seen the days when I would -willingly have sold my freedom for a full meal. Whatsoever tended to -fill the void of the stomach I have sought out and have continued to -live on day after day, until, praise be to God and the Prophet—you have -come back to us. But, sir, all men are not the same—the sense of all -men is not equal, and it may be that white men differ one from the other -as much as we blacks; for I see that some of them are rich, and some are -poor, some attend the engines down in the belly of the ship, and some -walk the quarter deck and command.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_008" id="page_008"></a>{8}</span>”</p> - -<p>“Aye, Salim has the gift of speech,” murmured the crowd.</p> - -<p>This encouraged Salim, who, clearing his throat, resumed: “There is no -doubt that the main fault lies in the manioc. It is a most bitter kind, -and the effects of eating it we all know. We know the sickness, the -retching, the quaking of the legs, the softening of the muscles, the -pain in the head as if it were bound with iron and the earth swimming -round the place whereon we stand, and the fall into a deadly faint. I -say we have felt all this, and have seen it in others. Some of us have -picked up the knack of making it eatable; but there are others who are -already too feeble or too lazy to try, or try to care how to live.</p> - -<p>“For some time we have been thinking that in every camp of ours there is -nothing but graves, and dying and burying. There has been no meat, nor -salt, nor dripping, nor gravy. There has been manioc, always manioc, and -no more. But if the gullet be dry, what will drive the food down the -passage? If the stomach is filled with loathing it requires a little -gravy or dripping to make the food palatable.</p> - -<p>“We knew that in a few weeks we were to leave here for Stanley Falls, or -for up the river, and we had made up our minds to leave the white men’s -service—every one of us. There has been death among us, it is here -still, and no one knows what is the cause of it. I myself don’t quite -believe that it is because we are working for white men, but there are -some of us who do. But we were all agreed until you came that we had -seen enough of it. There is another thing I wished to say, and that -is—we have wondered why we who belong to the Continent should die, and -white men who are strangers to it should live. When we were on the Congo -and on other journeys it was the white men who died, and not we. Now it -is we who die, a hundred blacks for one white. No, master, the cause of -death is in the food. The white men had meat of goat, and fowls, and -fish; we have had nothing but manioc and therefore died. I have spoken -my say.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_009" id="page_009"></a>{9}</span>”</p> - -<p>“Well, it is my turn to talk. I have been listening, and thinking, and -everything seems clear to me. You say that manioc was your food at -Yambuya, and that it made you sick and your men died?”</p> - -<p>“Yes.”</p> - -<p>“And you say that the men of Bolobo when they come to Yambuya were in -good condition?”</p> - -<p>“Yes.”</p> - -<p>“But that afterwards they became sick and died also?”</p> - -<p>“Yes.”</p> - -<p>“What did the men of Bolobo eat when there?”</p> - -<p>“Chikwanga.”</p> - -<p>“Well, what is chikwanga but bread made out of manioc?”</p> - -<p>“That is true.”</p> - -<p>“Did you make it into bread?”</p> - -<p>“Some of us.”</p> - -<p>“And some of you have lived. Now the truth of the matter is this. You -went out into the fields, and gathered the manioc tubers, the finest and -best. And you cut some leaves of manioc and brought them in, to bruise -them and make greens. This manioc is of the bitter kind. This bitterness -which you taste in it is poison. It would not only kill a few hundreds. -It would kill a whole race.</p> - -<p>“As you peeled the tubers, you cut raw slices and ate them, you pounded -your greens and as ‘kitowêo,’ you ate them also. These are two instances -in which you took poison.</p> - -<p>“Now the men from Bolobo had bought the manioc bread from the native -women. They had steeped the tubers in the river for four or five or six -days until the poison had all been washed away, they had then picked the -fibres out, dried the mush, and when dry they had made it into good -bread. That was what fed the Bolobo men, and fattened them. But the men -of Yambuya had scraped their manioc, and cut the roots for drying in the -sun, and as they did so they ate many a piece raw, and before the slices -were well dried they<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_010" id="page_010"></a>{10}</span> had eaten some, because they had no reserve of -food, and hunger forced them. Even those of you who put your roots to -soak in the water ate many a nice-looking bit, and you bruised and -cooked your greens to serve with your badly-prepared bread, and men -naturally sickened and died of the poison; and the men of Bolobo, when -they came up, did like the men of Yambuya, and by-and-by they fell ill -and died also. That is the reason why there are a hundred graves at -Yambuya, and that is what ails these sick men here. Not one of the white -men died, because they had rice, beans, biscuits and meat of fowl and -goat. If it were the climate that had killed your friends, the white men -less adapted for it would have died first, as they have done on the -lower Congo; but neither the climate nor the camp had anything to do -with your mortal sickness—the retching, and quaking of the limbs, the -vertigo and pain in the head, the weakening of the knees, and the -softening of the muscles, the final loathing, and indifference to -life—nothing else than the poison of the bitter manioc.</p> - -<p>“What you should have done was to have sent two or three daily out of -each mess to gather in the manioc in sufficient quantities and steep it -in the river, and have always plenty of prepared flour on hand to make -porridge or dumplings when hungry. Had you done so, I should have about -200 sleek and strong men ready for travel with me to Zanzibar.</p> - -<p>“Now follow what I say to you now. Eat as little of this manioc as you -can. Go, gather plenty of it, put it in the river to steep, and while it -is soaking eat your fill of bananas and plantains. In a day or two I -will move away from here. The sick shall be carried to a big island a -few hours distant, and there you will prepare twenty days’ provisions of -flour. Those who cannot get sufficient bananas make gratings over the -fire, slice your manioc thin, and let them dry till morning; then pound, -and make into flour, and eat what is good for white man as well as -black. To-morrow, all of you come back again to me, and you will throw -away those filthy rags of clothing into the river, and I shall clothe<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_011" id="page_011"></a>{11}</span> -you anew. Meantime, rejoice, and thank God that we have come to save you -from the grave.”</p> - -<p>We had brought with us a saving salve for all the despair and discontent -that wrought confusion in the minds of those who were herded within the -pen of Banalya. The influence of the beauty of the grass-land, its -wealth of grains and vegetables, and its stores of food had been -impressed so vividly upon the minds of our men of the advance column, -that the subject-matter of their revelations excited the dullest mind to -a lively hope that good times were come again. The men who had feasted -their eyes and glutted their appetites in that glorious land were never -tired of relating those details which have such a charm for those who -know from bitter experience what it is to hunger. As vivid as the word -pictures describing the happy region was the rapture of attention paid -to them by the poor emaciates who bore on their faces the unhealthy -stain of anæmia. To these it seemed an Eden filled with all manner of -pleasant things—abundance of food, grain and meat for strength, milk -and millet for nourishment. Slight regard was paid by the narrators to -the miserable months to be endured before the Eden could be reached, nor -did the eager listeners seem to care to sift the narratives. Their -imagination was so engrossed with the bright scenes that quite obscured -the stern realities to be borne before they could be attained. I -listened to the artless prattle of these adult children, sympathised -with their enthusiasm, and pitied them with all my soul. “Inshallah!” -said the boys from the Nyanza, with fervid emotion, “We shall feast on -beef once again, then you will laugh at the days you fed on manioc roots -and greens.”</p> - -<p>Was it to be doubted that these seductive visions would lead the sickly -ones of Banalya from erring thoughts of desertion? Milk and honey, meat -and millet, with wages and bounties, were stronger attractions than the -dried fish of Stanley Falls, the cane of the Arab master, and a doubtful -future.</p> - -<p>The cloud that had weighed down the spirits of the men of the rear -column so long was now about to be<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_012" id="page_012"></a>{12}</span> uplifted. But first it was necessary -to remove every one from the immediate vicinity of Banalya, the scene of -the tragedy and nursery of vicious moods and mischiefs. The couriers -sent on the 17th of August with notice of our arrival to Tippu-Tib must -have reached him on the 24th of August. I had stated I should wait for -him ten days, and even that period was begrudged by the impatient Nyanza -men, who had heard with scorn of his calculating dilatoriness. But this -delay was not only needed to give another opportunity to Tippu-Tib, but -also to enable Mr. Jameson, who was reported to be at Stanley Falls, to -join us, and also to reorganise the Expedition, and re-arrange the -goods, which had become terribly deranged by the demands of Tippu-Tib, -that they should be reduced to suit mere boy carriers.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1888.<br />Aug. 21.<br />Bungangeta.</div> - -<p>After three days’ halt at the camp we embarked all the sick and goods in -the canoes, and proceeded to Bungangeta Island, which we reached in -three hours. All the Manyuema carriers proceeded by land to a camp -opposite the island. During our stay at Banalya, Ugarrowwa had descended -the river from Wasp Rapids and occupied the larger island; we therefore -paddled to another higher up, which in some respects was more suitable -for us. The land column straggled into the camp opposite during three -successive days, but the rear guard, driving the stragglers, did not -reach the landing-place until the evening of the 24th, though the -distance was but six miles. Mr. Bonny did not reach until the 22nd. The -advance column in 1887 had covered the distance in four hours, but -meantime the Arabs had destroyed the large settlements, and the -marvellously thriving bush had buried ruins, fields, and plantations -under accumulated layers of leafy parasites. This short march, -protracted over three days, emphasised the necessity that existed for a -complete reorganization and thorough overhaul. We had also lost four -half-loads and two rifles through absconding Manyuema. On the whole it -was a capital test march, and proves, if any further proof was needed -beyond the log-book,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_013" id="page_013"></a>{13}</span> the utter unruliness of this mob of slaves, which -had half-maddened the officers of the rear column. Without Tippu-Tib, or -one of his nephews, such a column could not be taken through the broad -extents of wildernesses ahead. At this rate of marching we should be 450 -days reaching the Albert Nyanza. Messrs. Jameson and Bonny had been -forty-three days going ninety miles. The difficulties which our officers -met on the road are but slightly glanced at in the log-book, but the -patience with which they had met them was never more manifest. We stayed -on our breezy island until the 31st August. Cloth, beads, cowries, and -brass rods had been distributed at the rate of five doti or twenty -yards, three pounds cowries, one pound beads, and fifteen brass rods per -man of the Nyanza force, and half as much to the men of the rear column, -equal in value to £760 to the Nyanza force, and £283 to the Banalya men. -They all deserved equally, but the latter had already a pretty fair kit, -whereas the Nyanza men had been clad in goat skins and strips of -bark-cloth. This “pocket-money” to each would enable our men to enjoy -perfect rest while Ugarrowwa’s 600 people would only be too happy in -preparing flour, making manioc cakes and bread—as reserve -provisions—for a fair portion of cloth and other articles.</p> - -<p>Besides the work of restoring the baggage into order, which needed my -personal supervision, I had to write my reports to the Relief Committee, -to the London Royal, and Royal Scottish Geographical Societies, who were -contributories to the Relief Fund, to hold my palaver with the Manyuema -headmen, who one day vowed strictest fidelity, and the next burdened my -ear with complaints of their moody-mad men, losses by disease, -desertion, thefts of goods, menaces, &c., &c. But my answer to them all -was almost similar in terms to that used in my note to Tippu-Tib on the -17th: “If you decline the journey it is well, if you proceed with me it -is well also. Exercise your own free will. I do not need you, but if you -like to follow me I can make use of you, and will pay you according to -the number of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_014" id="page_014"></a>{14}</span> loads you carry.” Some of them understood this as -implying leave to proceed upon their own business—that of ravaging and -marauding—but three head men volunteered to accompany me. I engaged -them on the condition that if they followed me of their own will for -thirty days I would after that time trust them with loads.</p> - -<p>At the muster of the Expedition, August 29th, the roll was made out as -follows:—</p> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="1" summary="" - class="tbl"> -<tr><td> </td><td align="right">Men.</td><td>Carriers.</td></tr> - -<tr><td>Zanzibaris capable of carrying goods</td><td align="right">165</td> -<td rowspan="3" valign="middle" - class="bl">= 283</td></tr> -<tr><td> Madi carriers</td><td align="right">57</td></tr> -<tr><td> Manyuema carriers</td><td align="right">61</td></tr> -<tr><td>Soudanese and officers</td><td align="right">21</td></tr> -<tr><td> Sick, &c. (Zanzibaris)</td><td align="right">45</td></tr> -<tr><td>Somali</td><td align="right">1</td></tr> -<tr><td>Emin Pasha’s soldiers</td><td align="right">4</td></tr> -<tr><td>Manyuema chiefs, women and followers</td><td align="right">108</td></tr> -<tr><td>Officers and servant</td><td align="right">3</td></tr> -<tr><td> </td><td align="right" - class="bt">465</td><td align="right" - class="bt">283</td></tr> -</table> - -<p>List of loads to be carried on 2nd Journey to the Albert:—</p> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="1" summary="" - class="tbl"> -<tr><td>Gunpowder</td><td align="right">37</td><td align="center">cases</td></tr> -<tr><td>Remington ammunition</td><td align="right">83</td><td align="center">”</td></tr> -<tr><td>Winchester</td><td align="right">11</td><td align="center">”</td></tr> -<tr><td>Maxim</td><td align="right">9</td><td align="center">”</td></tr> -<tr><td>Beads in sacks</td><td align="right">19</td><td align="center">”</td></tr> -<tr><td>Cowries</td><td align="right">6</td><td align="center">”</td></tr> -<tr><td>Brass wire coils</td><td align="right">4</td><td align="center">”</td></tr> -<tr><td>Cloth in bales</td><td align="right">17</td><td align="center">”</td></tr> -<tr><td>Percussion caps</td><td align="right">4</td><td align="center">”</td></tr> -<tr><td>Miscellaneous</td><td align="right">40</td><td align="center">”</td></tr> -<tr><td> </td><td align="center" - class="bt">230</td><td align="left"> loads</td><td>for 283 carriers.</td></tr> -</table> - -<p>There were besides a few extra loads of miscellanea, which, so long as -all were carried in canoes, were useful and necessary, such as service -ammunition, native provisions, rope, &c., but the above formed the -indispensable baggage, when we should start overland. Though we had -fifty-three carriers in excess of loads, sickness, wounds, and death -would naturally, from the nature of the country and the present physical -condition of the rear column, decrease the number greatly, and the time -would arrive no doubt when the carriers would<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_015" id="page_015"></a>{15}</span> only be equal to the -loads, and the head men would have to relieve the sick porters. But -meantime a very fair chance of life was offered to the sick. For -something like sixty days they would be carried in canoes, and fed on -plantain flour and garden herbs. Goats and fowls were very scarce, for -Ugarrowwa had despoiled both banks. Also the porters would not be called -upon to exert their strength in the transport of any burdens. It only -remained for individuals to abstain from wild and reckless looting, and -seeking untimely fate by excess of zeal and imprudence, to assure us a -greater immunity from loss of life on this final journey to the Albert -Nyanza than we enjoyed on our first journey.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1888 <br />Aug. 30<br /> Lower Mariri</div> - -<p>During our stay out at Bungangeta Island Mr. Jameson’s letter from -Stanley Falls arrived dated August 12th. Though the letter stated he -purposed to descend to Bangala, the messenger reported that he was -likely to proceed to Banana Point, but whether Banana Point or Bangala -mattered very little. When he descended from Stanley Falls he -deliberately severed himself from the Expedition, and no inducement -would tempt me to remain in the neighbourhood of Banalya. I had given my -word to the officers at Fort Bodo and to Emin Pasha and the Egyptians -that on December 22nd, or thereabouts, I should be in the neighbourhood -of Fort Bodo, and by January 16th, or near that date, on the Nyanza. It -was natural that we should grieve and deplore the loss of Mr. Jameson to -the Expedition, for the log-book entries pleaded powerfully for him, but -the fatality that attached itself to the rear column was not to deplete -our numbers also, nor should the garrison at Fort Bodo wonder and bewail -our long absence, and lose their wits in consequence of our breach of -promise. I wrote a letter, however, to Mr. Jameson, wherein I suggested -that if he could muster sixty men, and immediately follow our blazed -path, which was too broad to be mistaken, he might easily overtake our -large column marching in single file through the forest along a road, -bristling with obstacles, of sloughs, marshes, creeks and rivers. But, -as the reader is aware, though<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_016" id="page_016"></a>{16}</span> we were ignorant of it, Mr. Jameson had -been dead twelve days before my letter was written.</p> - -<p>On the 30th August I sent the entire flotilla of canoes—twenty-nine in -number, with twelve of Ugarrowwa’s—to transport Mr. Bonny, 239 men and -their personal kit, provisions and cooking pots, five miles up river to -the landing-place above the Rendi River, with orders to the land column -to continue along our track to the next village, and the canoes having -discharged their passengers returned to the island.</p> - -<p>The next day—thirteen days having elapsed since Tippu-Tib had been -communicated with and no reply having been received—we departed from -Bungangeta Island on our final journey through the forest land, east. We -embarked 225 men, inclusive of canoe crews, feeble and sick, and 275 -full loads of between sixty and sixty-five pounds each of expeditionary -property, provisions of flour, private kits of the people, &c., and -despite a burning sun, which made extempore awnings very necessary, -pressed on up river for six hours until we arrived at our old camp below -Lower Mariri. On the 1st of September we reached the foot of Mariri -Rapids to find that Bonny’s column had passed on to South Mupé. As the -unsophisticated Zanzibaris and Manyuema had quite overlooked the device -of portage opposite rapids, we had to despatch couriers to South Mupé -for men to assist in the transport of loads overland.</p> - -<p>On the 2nd we were engaged in poling the canoes through the dangerous -river, and in the operation two were capsized. The next day we poled -through the upper Mariri Rapids, and at noon we were all assembled at -South Mupé.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1888.<br />Sept. 4.<br />Mupé.</div> - -<p>Ugarrowwa had followed us up with his flotilla to collect a little more -ivory, and was encamped at Upper Mariri Village. I had finished my -hastily written letters to the Royal and Scottish Geographical -Societies, and availed myself of his visit to me to request him to see -that they were forwarded to England, but during our halt on the 4th -September at South Mupé he re-visited me with Salim bin Mohammed, the -nephew of Tippu-Tib,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_017" id="page_017"></a>{17}</span> so often mentioned in connection with Major -Barttelot and Mr. Jameson. This man was of medium height and of slender -build, with good and regular Arab features, much marred by the -small-pox, and a face that reflected courage and audacity.</p> - -<p>Mr. Bonny’s story of him and his malevolence to Major Barttelot -personally had led me to imagine that I had misjudged his character, but -at this interview I was confirmed in my previous impressions of him and -of Tippu-Tib. It was simply this, that both Arabs were quite capable of -shedding pagan blood without concern as to its guilt, but would not plan -out any cold-blooded conspiracy to murder Arabs or white men for a less -cause than revenge. Now as neither had cause to plot the murder of -Barttelot, or to conspire for the destruction of the rear column, there -ought absolutely to be no grounds for supposing that they had ever -imagined such mischiefs. I am not disposed to doubt that Tippu-Tib did -send or lead a contingent of carriers in person to the Aruwimi. His -excuses for his early return—on the plea that he could not find the -camp—may be told to the “Marines.” They prove that he was lukewarm, -that he did not care sufficiently for the promised reward, and he ought -to have been dropped out of mind. When, however, the young officers -pleaded, and entreated, and coaxed him, both he and his nephew saw -clearly that the service so eagerly and earnestly desired was worth -money, and they raised their price; not out of ill-will, but out of an -uncontrollable desire to make more profit. The obligations Tippu was -under by contract, the gratitude due me for my assistance, were all -forgotten in the keen and sharpened appetite for money. The Major -possessed no resources to meet their demands, the worthy uncle and -nephew believed that both he and Jameson were rich, and the Expedition -to be under the patronage of wealthy men. “Why, then,” say they both -with smug complacency, “if they want us so badly, let them pay. Stanley -has been good to us, that is true (see the Major’s report), but a man -can’t work for his friend for nothing—friendship is too dear at the -price”—and so they took<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_018" id="page_018"></a>{18}</span> another turn of the screw. It was done -effectively I admit. If Tippu-Tib appeared a trifle indifferent he knew -how to assume it, he knew he would be coaxed to good humour with gifts. -If Salim bin Mohammed appeared a little vexed, sour, or talked of -wounded susceptibilities, the Major opened his boxes and chose a gay -uniform jacket, or sent a forty-five guinea rifle, or a bale of cloth, -or a pair of ivory handled revolvers; if Salim bin Massoud his -brother-in-law talked a little big, his condescending kindness was -secured and stimulated by a rich bounty.</p> - -<p>Salim had come in person, he said, to give a verbal reply to my note of -the 17th, and he was ordered by his uncle to send couriers immediately -back to him with my words.</p> - -<p>The Arab’s inability to comprehend the meaning of a legal contract, his -litigious and wavering spirit, his settled forgetfulness of words -spoken, his facility for breaking promises, and tampering with -agreements, his general inveracity, insincerity and dissimulation, as -well as his gift of pouring a stream of compliments amid a rain of -Mashallahs and Inshallahs, were never better displayed than at this -interview. Salim said that Tippu-Tib had sent him to ask what we should -do. This, after six letters, one in English and five in Arabic and -Swahili, on the 17th!</p> - -<p>“Now Salim,” said I, “listen. If I thought you or Tippu-Tib were in any -way implicated in the murder of my friend, you would never leave this -camp alive. You have only seen hitherto one side of me. But I know and -believe from my soul that it was neither you nor Tippu-Tib who caused -the death of the Major. Therefore we can speak together as formerly -without anger. Tippu-Tib has not injured me beyond what the consul and -the Seyyid of Zanzibar can settle easily between them. Into their hands -I will commit the case. Tell your uncle that the passage of himself and -his ninety-six followers from Zanzibar to Stanley Falls must be paid, -that the loss of goods, rifles, powder, and ammunition, the loss of time -of this entire expedition will<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_019" id="page_019"></a>{19}</span> have to be made good. Tell him to do -what he likes, but in the end I shall win. He cannot hurt me, but I can -hurt him. Tell him to consider these things, and then say whether it -would not be better to prove at the last that he was sorry, and that in -future he would try to do better. If he would like to try, say, that if -he gathers his men, and overtakes me before I cross the expedition over -the Ituri in about fifty days hence, he shall have a chance of -retrieving my good opinion, and quashing all legal proceedings.”</p> - -<p>“Very well, I hear all you say. I shall return to-night to Banalya; -Ugarrowwa will lend me canoes. I shall be with Tippu-Tib in eight days, -and on the 17th day I shall be back here, on your track. I shall -overhaul you before forty days.”</p> - -<p>“Good, then,” I said, “we had better utter our last farewells, for we -shall not meet again unless we meet at Zanzibar, about eighteen months -hence.”</p> - -<p>“Why?”</p> - -<p>“Because neither you nor Tippu-Tib have the least intention of keeping -your word. Your business here has been to order the Manyuema who are -with me back to Stanley Falls. But it is perfectly immaterial. Take them -back, for once more I say, it is not in your power to hurt me.”</p> - -<p>“Inshallah, Inshallah, let your heart rest in peace, we meet in less -than forty days, I swear to you.”</p> - -<p>Poor Salim! he proceeded straight from my presence to the quarters of -the Manyuema headmen, and tempted them to return with him, which, -singular to relate, they obstinately declined to do. Salim waxing -wrathful, employed menaces, upon hearing which they came to me demanding -protection.</p> - -<p>Smiling, I said to Salim, “What you promised me just now is true; you -have seen me in less than forty days! But what is the meaning of this? -These are independent Manyuema chiefs, who were sent by Tippu-Tib to -follow us. They are obeying Tippu-Tib in doing so. Let them alone, -Salim, there will be less people for you to look after on the road, you -know,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_020" id="page_020"></a>{20}</span> because you also will follow us. Don’t you see? There, that will -do. Come and get into your canoe, otherwise we shall make two marches -before you leave here—and you have promised to catch me, you know, in -forty days.”</p> - -<p>Our move on the 5th was to the large settlement of the Batundu, who -owned a flourishing crop of Indian corn, and a splendid plantation of -bananas, as yet untouched by any caravan. The rear column men required -good feeding to restore them to health, and though meat was -unprocurable, bananas and corn were not amiss. Here we halted two days, -during which we became aware of certain serious disadvantages resulting -from contact with the Manyuema. For these people had contracted the -small-pox, and had communicated it to the Madi carriers. Our Zanzibaris -were proof against this frightful disease, for we had taken the -precautions to vaccinate every member of the expedition on board the -<i>Madura</i>, in March, 1887. But on the Madis it began to develop with -alarming rapidity. Among the Manyuema were two insane women, or rather, -to be quite correct, two women subject to spasms of hysterical -exaltation, possessed by “devils,” according to their chiefs, who -prevented sleep by their perpetual singing during the night. Probably -some such mania for singing at untimely hours was the cause of the -Major’s death. If the poor Major had any ear for harmony, their -inharmonious and excited madhouse uproar might well have exasperated -him.</p> - -<p>The female sympathisers of these afflicted ones frequently broke out -into strange chorus with them, in the belief that this method had a -soothing effect, while any coercive measures for silencing them only -exaggerated their curious malady. Whatever influence the chorus may have -had on the nerves of the sufferers, on us, who were more tranquil, it -was most distressing.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1888.<br />Sept. 5.<br />Batundu.</div> - -<p>At this settlement two Zanzibaris, exceedingly useful, and reckoned -among the elect of the force, secretly left camp to make a raid on the -Batundu, and were ambushed and slain. This was the manner our most -enterprising<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_021" id="page_021"></a>{21}</span> men became lost to us. One of these two was the leader of -the van, and had acted in that capacity since we had departed from -Yambuya, June 1887. The sad occasion was an opportunity to impress on -the infatuated men for the hundredth time the absurd folly they were -guilty of in sacrificing their lives for a goat, in nobly working for -months to earn pay and honour by manliness and fidelity, and then bury -all in the entrails of cannibals. I had bestowed on them cattle, sheep, -goats, fowls, handfuls of silver, and a thousand pounds’ worth of -clothes, but none, no, not one, had offered his throat to me to be cut. -But for the sake of a goat, at any time day or night the cannibal might -kill and then eat them. What monstrous ingratitude! They were instantly -penitential. Again they promised to me by Allah! that they would not do -so again, and, of course, in a day or two they would forget their -promise. It is their way.</p> - -<p>But any person who has travelled with the writer thus far will have -observed that almost every fatal accident hitherto in this Expedition -has been the consequence of a breach of promise. How to adhere to a -promise seems to me to be the most difficult of all tasks for every -999,999 men out of every million whom I meet. I confess that these black -people who broke their promises so wantonly were the bane of my life, -and the cause of continued mental disquietude, and that I condemned them -to their own hearing as supremest idiots. Indeed, I have been able to -drive from one to three hundred cattle a five hundred mile journey with -less trouble and anxiety than as many black men. If we had strung them -neck and neck along a lengthy slave-chain they would certainly have -suffered a little inconvenience, but then they themselves would be the -first to accuse us of cruelty. Not possessing chains, or even rope -enough, we had to rely on their promises that they would not break out -of camp into the bush on these mad individual enterprises, which -invariably resulted in death, but never a promise was kept longer than -two days.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_022" id="page_022"></a>{22}</span></p> - -<div class="sidenote">1888.<br /> Sept. 8.<br /> Elephant Playground.</div> - -<p>“Elephant Playground” Camp was our next halting-place, and thence we -moved to Wasp Rapids.</p> - -<p>I learned from some of Ugarrowwa’s men that inland from Bwamburi are the -Ababua tribe, among whom a different style of architecture prevails, the -huts being more commodious and comfortable, and plastered, and that to -the dwellings are attached wide verandahs. I was also told that their -blacksmith’s art was carried to a high standard, and that on every blade -of spear, sword, knife, or arrow, considerable decorations were -lavished. Some of the tri-bladed and four-bladed knives were shown to -me, and they were recognised as characteristic of the Monbuttu and -Nyam-Nyam as described by Schweinfurth in his “Artes Africanæ.”</p> - -<p>On leaving Wasp Rapids, on the 12th, our canoes carried 198; the land -column under Mr. Bonny numbered 262. Being unladen, the trained men -arrived in camp before the advance canoe of the flotilla. The road was -now distinct and well trodden like ordinary African footpaths.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1888.<br />Sept. 12.<br />Manginni.</div> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill-022_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/ill-022_sml.jpg" width="352" height="525" alt="SWORDS AND KNIVES. (From a photograph.)" -title="SWORDS AND KNIVES. (From a photograph.)" /></a><br /> -<span class="caption">SWORDS AND KNIVES. (From a photograph.)</span> -</p> - -<p>On reaching camp, however, the men, under pretence of cutting phrynia -leaves to roof their huts, vanished into the forest, eluding the guards, -and escaped along a path leading inland. Some of these managed to gain a -few fowls, a sheaf or two of sugar-cane, and an abundance of mature -plantains, but there were others who met only misfortune. Three Manyuema -were killed, and a Lado soldier of the irregulars of Emin Pasha received -a broad and sharp spear through his body, which, glancing past the -vertebræ, caused a ghastly wound, but fortunately uninjured a vital -part. The wounds were sewn up and bandages applied. The rear guard -reported that on the road five Manyuema, three Zanzibaris, and one -Soudanese were killed and eaten by ghoulish natives who had been hiding -while the column was passing, and that these men belonging to the -Banalya party had been resting near their hiding-place, when they were -suddenly set upon and despatched. It was only five days previously that -I had addressed the people publicly on the danger they were incurring -by<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_023" id="page_023"></a>{23}</span><a name="page_024" id="page_024"></a> these useless and wholly unnecessary raids. When food was really -required, which was once in five days, a foraging party would be sent to -cut plantains in such abundance that they sufficed for several days, and -twelve hours’ drying over a fire rendered the provisions portable. Their -absolute inability to keep their promise, and the absolute impossibility -of compelling them to do so, had been the cause of twelve deaths, and -the thirteenth person was so seriously wounded that he was in imminent -danger of dying. We had the small-pox raging among the Manyuema and -Madis, and daily creating havoc among their numbers, and we had this -fatal want of discipline, which was utterly irremediable in the forest -region. The more vehemently I laboured to correct this disorder in the -mob, the more conscious I became that only a death penalty on the raider -would stop him; but then when the natives themselves executed infallibly -the sentence, there was no necessity for me to do it.</p> - -<p>Just above Manginni a canoe was capsized through pure carelessness. With -our best divers we proceeded to the scene and recovered every article -excepting a box of gunpowder and one of beads. The canoe was broken.</p> - -<p>Passing by Mugwye’s, we reached Mambanga, and halted two days to prepare -food for the uninhabited wilderness that stretches thence to Engwedde. -At this camp Lakki or a “Hundred thousand,” a veritable Jack Cade, loud, -noisy, blustering—the courier who in the midst of the midnight fray at -Bandeya shouted to his comrades: “These fellows want meat, and meat they -shall have, but it will be their own!”—heading a secret raiding party -made up of choice friends, and returned twenty-four hours later with a -curious and most singular wound from a poisoned arrow. Carbonate of -ammonium was injected into the wound, and he was saved, but Lakki was -firmly of the opinion that he was indebted to the green tobacco leaves -employed to cover it.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1888.<br />Sept. 14.<br />Mambanga.</div> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill-025_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/ill-025_sml.jpg" width="347" height="223" alt="A SWIMMING RACE AFTER A BUSH ANTELOPE." -title="A SWIMMING RACE AFTER A BUSH ANTELOPE." /></a><br /> -<span class="caption">A SWIMMING RACE AFTER A BUSH ANTELOPE.</span> -</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1888.<br /> Sept. 17.<br /> Ngula River.</div> - -<p>While preparing our forest camps we were frequently startled at the -sudden rush of some small animal resembling a wild goat, which often -waited in his covert until almost trodden upon, and then bounded swiftly -away,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_025" id="page_025"></a>{25}</span> running the gauntlet among hundreds of excited and hungry people, -who with gesture, voice, and action attempted to catch it. This time, -however, the animal took a flying leap over several canoes lying abreast -into the river, and dived under. In an instant there was a desperate -pursuit. Man after man leaped head foremost into the river, until its -face was darkly dotted with the heads of the frantic swimmers. This -mania for meat had approached madness. The poisoned arrow, the -razor-sharp spear, and the pot of the cannibal failed to deter them from -such raids; they dared all things, and in this instance an entire -company had leaped into the river to fight and struggle, and perhaps be -drowned, because there was a chance that a small animal that two men -would consider as insufficient for a full meal, might be obtained by one -man out of fifty. Five canoes were therefore ordered out to assist the -madmen. About half a mile below, despite the manœuvres of the animal -which dived and swam with all the cunning of savage man, a young fellow -named Feruzi clutched it by the neck, and at the same time he was -clutched by half-a-dozen fellows, and all must assuredly have been -drowned had not the canoes arrived in time, and rescued the tired -swimmers. But, alas! for Feruzi, the bush<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_026" id="page_026"></a>{26}</span> antelope, for such it was, no -sooner was slaughtered than a savage rush was made on the meat, and he -received only a tiny morsel, which he thrust into his mouth for -security.</p> - -<p>During the next journey it was the river column that suffered. We were -near our old camp at the confluence of the Ngula and the Ituri. A man in -the advance canoe was shot in the back with a poisoned arrow. The wound -was treated instantly with an injection of carbonate of ammonia, and no -ill-effects followed.</p> - -<p>The day following, the river column again suffered, and this time the -case was as fatal as that caused by a bullet, and almost instantaneous. -Jabu, our cook, somewhat indisposed, was sitting in the stern of a canoe -while the crew was on shore about forty feet from him, hauling it past a -bit of rapids. A bold and crafty native, with fixed arrow before him, -steadily approached the vessel and shot a poisoned wooden dart, which -penetrated the arm near the shoulders and pierced the base of the -throat. The wound was a mere needle-hole puncture, but Jabu had barely -time to say “Mahommed!” when he fell back dead.</p> - -<p>Our next move was to Panga Falls. On the following day, 20th September, -we made a road past the Falls, hauled twenty-seven canoes to the -landing-place above, in view of Fort Island and then conveyed all goods -and baggage to the camp.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1888.<br /> Sept. 21. <br />Nejambi Rapids.</div> - -<p>During our first journey through the neighbourhood we had lost no person -through native weapons, but since our first passage the natives had been -stimulated into aggressive efforts by the ease with which the reckless -improvident black when not controlled by a white man, could be -butchered. The deserters from the advance column had furnished the -wretches with several meals; the stupid, dense-headed Bakusu under -Ugarrowwa had supplied them with victims until the cannibal had -discovered that by his woodcraft he could creep upon the unsuspecting -men and drive his spear through them as easily as through so many goats. -We had lost fourteen<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_027" id="page_027"></a>{27}</span> men in thirty days. A silly Madi strayed into the -bush on the 20th, to collect fuel. A native confronted him and drove his -weapon clean through his body. On the 21st a Manyuema woman, fifty paces -from our camp, was pierced with a poisoned arrow, and was dead before we -could reach her. And, to complete the casualties, a Zanzibari of the -rear column succumbed to manioc poison.</p> - -<p>Nejambi Rapids was our next camp. As soon as we had arrived and stacked -goods, about a hundred men, driven by hunger, started in a body to -forage for plantains. We, who remained in camp, had our hands full of -work. The twenty-seven canoes required to be hauled, on the next day, -past the rapids, and a road had to be cleared, and rattan cables were -wanted for each vessel for hauling.</p> - -<p>By sunset several of the foragers had returned well rewarded for their -enterprise, but many were belated, and, till long past midnight, guns -were fired as signals, and the great ivory horns sounded loud blasts -which travelled through the glades with continued rolling echoes. About -nine p.m., tidings came that two Zanzibaris had been killed by poisoned -arrows. An hour later a dead body, that of Ferajji, the humorous -head-man, who was cross-examined at Banalya, was brought in. On -inspection, the corpse was found studded with beads of perspiration. The -arrow wound was a mere pin-hole puncture in upper left arm, but it had -proved quite enough. It was said that he walked about an hour after -being struck, towards camp, but then cried out for a little rest, as he -was faint. During the ten minutes’ rest he died.</p> - -<p>Young Hussein bin Juma, of a respectable parentage at Zanzibar, was soon -after carried in, and brought to me, not dead, as reported, but in an -extremely low condition. I discovered that the arrow had pierced the -outer flesh of the right arm, and had entered an inch above the third -rib. The arrow was hastily withdrawn and shown to me. It was smeared -over with a dark substance like thick coal tar, and emitted a most<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_028" id="page_028"></a>{28}</span> -peculiar odour. The arm was not swollen, but the body wound had caused a -considerable tumour, soft to the touch. He said that he had felt -exceedingly faint at one time, and that he perspired greatly, but had -felt great relief after retching. At present he was languid, and -suffered from thirst. After washing well both wounds, five grains of -carbonate ammonia were injected into each wound, and a good dose of -strong medical brandy was administered.</p> - -<p>In ten days young Hussein was quite restored, and went about performing -his accustomed duties.</p> - -<p>A squad of men returned long after midnight with fowls, plantains, and -fortunately without accident. But early in the morning, Tam, a native of -Johanna, raving from small-pox, threw himself into the rapids and was -drowned. He had declined being vaccinated.</p> - -<p>After hauling our canoes overland three-quarters of a mile, we halted a -day above the rapids to prepare five days’ rations of flour. The strain -of hauling the rotten craft had reduced our flotilla to twenty-two -vessels.</p> - -<p>Engwedde’s long series of rapids was passed without accident, and thence -we moved to Avisibba, and a good march brought us to the camp below -Mabengu Rapids, where we had waited so long for the lost column under -Jephson in August, 1887.</p> - -<p>The next day was a halt, and a strong foraging party was sent over to -Itiri to collect food. In the afternoon it returned, bringing several -days’ supply of plantains with a few goats and fowls, and for the first -time we were able to make soup and distribute meat to the Banalya sick. -It was reported to me that the Manyuema had carved a woman most -butcherly to allay their strong craving for meat, but the headman -assured me that it was utterly false, and I am inclined to believe him, -for the Zanzibaris, if they had really detected such a monstrous habit -in people who might at any time contaminate their cooking-pots, would -have insisted on making a severe example.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1888.<br />Sept. 30.<br />Avugadu.</div> - -<p>On the last day of September we moved up to above upper rapids of -Avugadu, at which camp we discovered<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_029" id="page_029"></a>{29}</span> wild oranges. There were also wild -mango-trees, if we may trust the flowering and foliage. Red figs of a -sweetish flavour were very common, but as their shrunk pedicels -possessed no saccharine secretions they were uneatable.</p> - -<p>A native woman was delivered of a child on the road. She was seen -standing over the tiny atom. The Zanzibaris as they came up crowded -around the unusual sight, and one said, “throw the thing into the river -out of the way.” “But why should you do that when the infant is alive?” -asked another. “Why don’t you see that it is white? it must be some -terrible disease I am sure.” “Oh Ignorance, how many evils transpire -under thy dark shade.” “Father, forgive them, for they know not what -they do,” rushed to my mind, as I looked in wonder at the speakers, who, -utterly unconscious that they were committing murder, would have -extinguished the little spark of life there and then.</p> - -<p>Our anxieties at this period were mainly on the account of those -suffering from ulcers. There was one wise little boy of about thirteen -called Soudi, who formerly attended on the Major. An injury he had -received had caused about four inches of the leg bone to be exposed. We -had also fifteen cases of small-pox, who mingled in the freest manner -possible with our Zanzibaris, and only the suicide, Tam, had thus far -been attacked.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1888.<br />Oct. 1.<br />Avejeli.</div> - -<p>On arriving at Avejeli, opposite the Nepoko, the wife of the Manyuema -drummer, a prepossessing lassie, went out to the gardens close by to -collect herbs. A band of natives were in hiding, and they pierced her -with arrows. Seven of them quivered in her body. Her screams attracted -attention, and she was hastily brought in, but even as we were about to -inject the ammonium she rolled over, raised her arms, and embraced her -young husband in the most touching manner, gave a long sigh, and died. -“Oh, ye travellers! who belong to that clique who say the Africans know -neither love, affection, nor jealousy. What would you have said to this -pitiful death-scene?” We had also a Manyuema<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_030" id="page_030"></a>{30}</span> woman who was a hideous -object, a mass of loathsome pustules, emitting an almost unbearable -stench, but her husband tended and served her with a surpassing and -devoted tenderness. Death, death everywhere, and on every day, and in -every shape; but love, supreme love stood like a guardian angel to make -death beautiful! Poor unlettered, meek creatures, the humblest of -humanity, yet here unseen, and unknown of those who sing of noble -sacrifices, of constancy and devotion, proving your brotherhood with us -amid the sternest realities by lulling your loved ones to rest with the -choicest flowers of love!</p> - -<p>On the 2nd of October we moved up to Little Rapids below the confluence -of the Ngaiyu with the Ituri, where a tornado visited us, churned up the -generally waveless river into careering rollers, that stretched from -bank to bank, with a power and force that disturbed the very bed and -muddied the stream until it resembled a wild strip of shallow -wind-driven sea, beating on an alluvial shore. Our canoes were dashed -one against the other until they promised to become matchwood, while the -great forest groaned and roared with the agony of the strife, but in -half-an-hour the river had resumed its placid and tender face, and the -forest stood still as though petrified.</p> - -<p>During a halt on the 3rd, Mr. Jameson’s box, containing various trifles -belonging to an industrial naturalist, was opened. Books, diaries, and -such articles as were worth preserving, were sealed up for transport -athwart the continent; the others, unnecessary to a person in -civilization, were discarded.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1888.<br />Oct. 3.<br />Bavikai.</div> - -<p>Mr. Bonny was despatched with twenty-eight men past the Ngaiyu, to -verify my hope that a landing-place I had observed in passing and -repassing would lead to the discovery of a road by which I could avoid -the devastated wilderness that stretched for nearly 200 miles along the -south bank between the Basopo Rapids and Ibwiri. Mr. Bonny, after -returning, was pleased to express his surprise at the marvellous -dexterity and agility of the scouts, who sprang with the lightness of -springing bush antelopes over every kind of impediment,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_031" id="page_031"></a>{31}</span> and who in -almost every thousand paces gained five hundred ahead of him. A mile and -a half from the landing-place on the north bank he had found a fine -village surrounded by rich groves of plantains. To this village, called -Bavikai, we proceeded more in the hope that we could utilize some road -going north-easterly, whence, after sixty miles or so, we could strike -on a bee-line course for the Albert.</p> - -<p>As the men were being transported across the river opposite the -landing-place of the Bavikai on the 4th, I saw a dozen Madis in a -terrible condition from the ravages of the small-pox, and crowding them, -until they jostled them in admirable unconcern, were some two dozen of -the tribe as yet unaffected by the disease. This little fact put me on a -line of reflections which, had a first-class shorthand writer been near, -might have been of value to other thoughtless persons. Never did -ignorance appear to me so foolish. Its utter unsuspectingness was -pitiful. Over these human animals I saw the shadow of Death, in the act -to strike. But I said to myself, I see the terrible shade over them -ready to smite them with the disease which will make them a horror, and -finally kill them. When I fall also it will probably be from some -momentary thoughtlessness, when I shall either be too absorbed, or too -confident to observe the dark shadow impending over me. However, <i>Mambu -Kwa Mungu</i>, neither they nor I can avoid our fate.</p> - -<p>Among my notes on the 5th of October I find a few remarks about Malaria.</p> - -<p>While we have travelled through the forest region we have suffered less -from African fevers, than we did in the open country between Mataddi and -Stanley Pool.</p> - -<p>A long halt in the forest clearings soon reminds us that we are not yet -so acclimated as to utterly escape the effects of malaria. But when -within the inclosed woods our agues are of a very mild form, soon -extinguished by a timely dose of quinine.</p> - -<p>On the plateau of Kavalli and Undussuma, Messrs. Jephson, Parke, and -myself were successively prostrated<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_032" id="page_032"></a>{32}</span> by fever, and the average level of -the land was over 4500 feet above the sea.</p> - -<p>On descending to the Nyanza plain, 2500 feet lower, we were again laid -up with fierce attacks.</p> - -<p>At Banana Point, which is at sea-level, ague is only too common.</p> - -<p>At Boma, 80 feet higher, the ague is more common still.</p> - -<p>At Vivi, there were more cases than elsewhere, and the station was about -250 feet higher than Boma, and not a swamp was near it.</p> - -<p>At Stanley Pool, about 1100 feet above sea level, fever of a pernicious -form was prevalent.</p> - -<p>While ascending the Congo with the wind astern we were unusually -exempted from ague.</p> - -<p>But descending the Upper Congo, facing the wind, we were smitten with -most severe forms of it.</p> - -<p>While ascending the Aruwimi we seldom thought of African fever, but -descending it in canoes, meeting the wind currents, and carried towards -it by river-flow and paddle, we were speedily made aware that -acclimatisation is slow.</p> - -<p>Therefore it is proved that from 0 to 5000 feet above the sea there is -no immunity from fever and ague, that over forty miles of lake water -between a camp and the other shore are no positive protection; that a -thousand miles of river course may serve as a flue to convey malaria in -a concentrated form; that if there is a thick screen of primeval forest, -or a grove of plantains between the dwelling-place and a large clearing -or open country there is only danger of the local malaria around the -dwelling, which might be rendered harmless by the slightest attention to -the system; but in the open country neither a house nor a tent are -sufficient protection, since the air enters by the doors of the house, -and under the flaps, and through the ventilators to poison the inmates.</p> - -<p>Hence we may infer that trees, tall shrubbery, a high wall or close -screen interposed between the dwelling-place and the wind currents will -mitigate their malarial<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_033" id="page_033"></a>{33}</span> influence, and the inmate will only be -subjected to local exhalations.</p> - -<p>Emin Pasha informed me that he always took a mosquito curtain with him, -as he believed that it was an excellent protector against miasmatic -exhalations of the night.</p> - -<p>Question, might not a respirator attached to a veil, or face screen of -muslin, assist in mitigating malarious effects when the traveller finds -himself in open regions?</p> - -<p>Three companies of forty men each were sent in three different -directions to follow the tracks leading from Bavikai. The first soon got -entangled in the thick woods bordering the Ngaiyu, and had an engagement -with the natives of Bavikai, who were temporarily encamped in the dark -recesses, the second followed a path that ran E. by N., and soon met a -large force of natives coming from three different villages. One of our -men was wounded in the head with a poisoned arrow. The third was -perplexed by a network of paths, and tried several of them, but all -ended in plantations of plantains and thin bush of late growth, and in -the search these men encountered savages well armed and prepared with -poisoned darts. We were therefore compelled to recross the river to the -south bank, to try again higher up, to avoid the trying labour of -tunnelling through the forest.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1888.<br /> Oct. 10.<br /> Hippo Broads.</div> - -<p>On the 10th the Expedition reached Hippo Broads. On this date we saw a -cloud of moths sailing up river, which reached from the water’s face to -the topmost height of the forest, say 180 feet, so dense, that before it -overtook us we thought that it was a fog, or, as was scarcely possible, -a thick fall of lavender-coloured snow. The rate of flight was about -three knots an hour. In the dead calm morning air they maintained an -even flight, but the slightest breeze from the banks whirled them -confusedly about, like light snow particles on a gusty day. Every now -and then the countless close packed myriads met a cloud of moth migrants -from above river, and the sunbeams glinting and shining on their -transparent wing caused them to resemble fire sparks.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_034" id="page_034"></a>{34}</span></p> - -<p>Bits of turfy green, cropped close by hippo, which favours this fine -reach of river, distinguish the banks near this locality. Many oil -palms, some raphia, arums, phrynia, amoma, pepper bushes, &c., denote a -very ancient site of a human settlement. My tent was pitched under a -small branching fig-tree, which protected it from a glowing Equatorial -sun, but the heat reflected from the river’s face mounted up to 87° in -the shade at 3 <small>P.M.</small> This unusual heat preceded a tempest, with -lightning, startling thunder, and deluging rain.</p> - -<p>At the Bafaido Cataract, a woman who fell into our hands informed us -that the Medze tribe lived on the other side of the Ngaiyu River and -that the Babandi were found on its left bank.</p> - -<p>Near Avaiyabu, a lurking native who had been standing behind a leafy -screen of parasites depending from the branches of a big tree, suddenly -stepped into the path, snatched a little girl belonging to the Manyuema, -and drove his double-edged dagger from breast to back, and holding his -weapon above his head uttered a furious cry, which might well have been -“Death to the invader!”</p> - -<p>And at the next camp, Avamberri landing-place, Soudi the wise little boy -who had served the Major, while being carried past the rapids to the -canoes waiting above, died on the carriers’ shoulders. The enamel -covering of the leg-bone had been all destroyed by the virulent ulcer. -Since we had left Bungangeta Island, Soudi had been carried and nursed, -but want of exercise, and exposure to sun in the canoe and constant rain -had weakened his digestion. His constitution had been originally healthy -and sound. The little fellow had borne his sufferings bravely, but the -reserve medicines were at Bangala, and we could do nothing for him.</p> - -<p>On the 18th of October we were at Amiri Rapids, and the second Zanzibari -showed symptoms of small-pox. So far we had been remarkably free of the -disease, despite the fact that there were from ten to twenty sufferers -daily in the camp since arriving at the settlement of the Batundu. Out -of 620 Zanzibaris who were ordered to be vaccinated,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_035" id="page_035"></a>{35}</span> some few -constitutions might possibly have resisted the vaccine; but no more -decided proof of the benefits resulting to humanity could be obtained -from Jenner’s discovery than were furnished by our Expedition. Among the -Manyuema, Madis, and native followers, the epidemic had taken deadly -hold, and many a victim had already been tossed into the river weighted -with rocks. For this was also a strange necessity we had to resort to, -to avoid subsequent exhumation by the natives whom we discovered to be -following our tracks for the purpose of feeding on the dead.</p> - -<p>One of the Zanzibari headmen while acting as coxswain of a canoe was so -stung by wasps at this camp that he despaired of his life, and insisted -that his will should be written, wherein he made his brother, then with -us, his sole legatee. I conformed to his wish in a clerkly fashion that -pleased him well, but I also administered a ten-grain dose of carbonate -of ammonium hypodermically, and told him he should reach Zanzibar in -spite of the vicious wasps who had so punished him. The next day he was -a new man, and boasted that the white man’s medicines could cure -everything except death.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1888.<br /> Oct. 18. <br />Amiri Falls.</div> - -<p>After moving to the top of Amiri Rapids, a series of misfortunes met us. -Some few of the flighty-headed untrained men of the rear-column rushed -off to the plantain plantations without a leader or authority, and -conducted themselves like children. The natives surrounded them and -punished them, wounding three. Two others, one suffering from a -palpitation of the heart, and another feeble youth, had left the trail -to hide from the rear-guard.</p> - -<p>Up to date, we had lost since 1st of September, nine Zanzibaris killed, -one from suicide, one from ulcers, and two were missing. Of the Manyuema -contingent, fifteen had been killed or had died from small pox, and -eighteen Madis had either been killed or had perished from the pest. -Total loss, forty-four deaths within forty-nine days.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1888.<br />Oct. 19.<br />Amiri Falls.</div> - -<p>From Amiri Falls to Avatiko was a seven-days’ march<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_036" id="page_036"></a>{36}</span> through a -depopulated country, through a land wholly empty of food. Beyond Avatiko -by the new route I proposed to follow, two days would probably transpire -before another supply of food could be obtained. This was my estimate, -at which with the Zanzibaris of the advance column who were now trained -in forest life, we might perform these journeys. If we could obtain no -food at Avatiko, then our lot would be hard indeed. Up to within a day’s -march of Avatiko, we could employ the canoes in carrying an extra supply -of provisions. It would not be impossible to take twenty days’ rations -of flour per capita; but a leader to perform such a work must be obeyed. -He performs his duties by enjoining on all his followers to remember his -words, to take heed of his advice, and do their utmost to conform to his -instructions.</p> - -<p>On the 20th at dawn, 160 rifles were despatched to the plantations five -miles inland from Amiri Falls. The men were told how many days Avatiko -was distant, and that they should employ one day in collecting food, in -peeling, slicing and drying their plantains in the plantation, so that -they could bring from sixty to seventy pounds of food, which when -distributed would supply each person with over twenty pounds, equal to -ten days’ rations. Experience of them proved to me that the enterprising -would carry sufficient to satisfy them with fifteen days’ unstinted -food; others, again, despite the warning of death rung in their ears, -would not carry more than would suffice them for four days.</p> - -<p>On the afternoon of the 21st I was gratified to see that the people had -been very successful. How many had followed my advice it was impossible -to state. The messes had sent half their numbers to gather the food, and -every man had to contribute two handfuls for the officers and sick. It -only remained now for the chiefs of the messes to be economical of the -food, and the dreaded wilderness might be safely crossed.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_037" id="page_037"></a>{37}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXII" id="CHAPTER_XXII"></a>CHAPTER XXII.<br /><br /> -<small>ARRIVAL AT FORT BODO.</small></h2> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hangg">Ugarrowwa’s old station once more—March to Bunda—We cross the -Ituri River—Note written by me opposite the mouth of the Lenda -River—We reach the Avatiko plantations—Mr. Bonny measures a -pigmy—History and dress of the pigmies—A conversation by -gesture—The pigmy’s wife—Monkeys and other animals in the -forest—The clearing of Andaki—Our tattered clothes—The Ihuru -River—Scarcity of food; Amani’s meals—Uledi searches for -food—Missing provisions—We reach Kilonga-Longa’s village -again—More deaths—The forest improves for travelling—Skirmish -near Andikumu—Story of the pigmies and the box of ammunition—We -pass Kakwa Hill—Defeat of a caravan—The last of the Somalis—A -heavy shower of rain—Welcome food discovery at Indemau—We bridge -the Dui River—A rough muster of the people—A stray goat at our -Ngwetza camp—Further capture of dwarfs—We send back to Ngwetza -for plantains—Loss of my boy Saburi in the forest—We wonder what -has become of the Ngwetza party—My boy Saburi turns up—Starvation -Camp—We go in search of the absentees, and meet them in the -forest—The Ihuru River—And subsequent arrival at Fort Bodo.</p></div> - -<div class="sidenote">1888.<br /> Oct. 23. <br />Ugarrowwa’s Station.</div> - -<p>The Expedition reached Ugarrowwa’s old station on the 23rd of October, -and slept within its deserted huts. In the court of the great house of -the chief of the raiders, a crop of rice had grown up, but the birds had -picked every grain. Over one hundred people found comfortable shelter in -the spacious passages; and had supplies been procurable within a -respectable distance, it would not have ill-suited us for a halt of a -week; but it was too risky altogether to consume our rations because of -the comfort of shelter. It was the centre of a great desolate area, -which we were bound by fear of famine to travel through with the utmost -speed.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1888.<br />Oct. 24.<br />Bunda.</div> - -<p>The following day we marched to Bunda. The river column received -attention from Ugarrowwa’s old subjects, and the Manyuema sprang -overboard to avoid the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_038" id="page_038"></a>{38}</span> arrows; but the Zanzibaris from the canoe behind -leaped ashore, and by a flank attack assisted us to save the bewildered -Manyuema, who in their careless happy attitudes in the canoe had offered -such tempting targets for the natives.</p> - -<p>The Ituri River was now in full flood, for the rains fell daily in -copious tropical showers. The streams and creeks flowing into the Ituri -from the right bank were deep, which caused the land party excessive -worry and distress. No sooner had they crossed one creek up to the -waist, than in a few moments another of equal or greater depth had to be -waded through. They were perpetually wringing their clothes, and -declaiming against the vexatious interruptions. Across the mouths of -deeper tributaries the canoes were aligned, and served as floating -bridges for the party to cross, while each man was the subject of some -jest at his bedraggled appearance. The foremost men were sure to have -some wet mud or soapy clay on the boards; the garments of others would -be dripping with water, and presently fall after fall would testify to -the exceeding slipperiness of the bridge, and would be hailed with -uproarious chaff and fun. On this day thirty-two streams were crossed by -the land party.</p> - -<p>On the 25th, we moved up to a camp, opposite the mouth of the Lenda -River. We were making progress, but I came across the following note -written that evening. It will be seen later that such congratulations -could only have been the outcome of a feeling of temporary pleasure that -the day was not far distant when we should see the end to our harder -labours.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1888.<br /> Oct. 25. <br />Lenda River.</div> - -<p>“I desire to render most hearty thanks that our laborious travels -through the forest are drawing to a close. We are about 160 miles -to-night from the grass-land; but we shall reduce this figure quickly -enough, I hope. Meantime we live in anticipation. We bear the rainy -season without a murmur, for after the rain the harvest will be ready -for us in the grass-land. We do not curse the mud and reek of this humid -land now, though we crossed thirty-two streams yesterday, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_039" id="page_039"></a>{39}</span> the mud -banks and flats were sorely trying to the patience. We have a number of -minor pleasures in store. It will be a great relief to be delivered from -the invasions of the red ants, and to be perfectly secure from their -assaults by day and by night. When we have finally dried the soles of -our boots and wiped the mildew of the forest off their tops, our dreams -will be undisturbed by one enemy at least. While we smart under the -bites of the ferocious small bees, and start at the sting of small ants, -and writhe under the venom of a hornet, or groan by reason of the sting -of a fiendish wasp, or flap away the ever-intrusive butterfly, or dash -aside the hurtful tiger slug, or stamp with nervous haste on the -advancing greenish centipede, we remind ourselves that these miseries -will not be for many days now. A little more patience and then merrier -times. We have had four goats since August 17th for meat. We have -subsisted mainly on roast plantains. They have served to maintain the -soul attached to the body. We are grateful even for this, though our -strength is not to be boasted of. We complacently think of the beef, and -veal, and mutton diet ahead, garnished with a variety of edibles such as -the sweet potato and beans, and millet flour for porridge with milk, and -sesamum oil for cooking. Relief also from the constant suspicion, -provoked by an animal instinct, that a savage with a sheaf of poisoned -arrows is lurking within a few feet of one will be something to be -grateful for. The ceaseless anxiety, the tension of watchfulness, to -provide food, and guard the people from the dangers that meet their -frolics, will be relaxed; and I shall be glad to be able to think better -of the world and its inhabitants than the doubtful love I entertain for -mankind in the forest.”</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1888.<br /> Oct. 27.<br />Lenda River.</div> - -<p>We found our camp at Umeni on the 26th, but there were only two small -bunches of miniature plantains discovered here, and a raging tornado -roared like a legion of demons through the forest, and shook the ancient -tree giants to their base, while the dark Ituri was so beswept that it -became pallid under the whistling, screaming fury of the squalls.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_040" id="page_040"></a>{40}</span></p> - -<p>On the next day we rowed up to below Big Cataract, unloaded the goods, -left the canoes in the bushes, shouldered our loads, and marched away -after half an hour’s halt only, for five miles inland. We had left the -Ituri navigation for the last time.</p> - -<p>We entered the Avatiko plantations after three hours’ march on the 28th, -and just while the majority of the people was perilously near -starvation. They spread over the plantations with the eagerness of -famished wolves after prey. Here we stayed two days in foraging and -preparing a supply of food.</p> - -<p>We had not been long at Avatiko before a couple of pigmies were brought -to me. What relation the pair were to one another is not known. The man -was young, probably twenty-one. Mr. Bonny conscientiously measured him, -and I recorded the notes.</p> - -<p>Height, 4 ft.; round head, 20¼ in.; from chin to back top of head, 24¼ -in.; round chest, 25½ in.; round abdomen, 27¾ in.; round hips, 22½ in.; -round wrist, 4¼ in.; round muscle of left arm, 7½ in.; round ankle, 7 -in.; round calf of leg, 7¾ in.; length of index finger, 2 in.; length of -right hand, 4 in.; length of foot, 6¼ in.; length of leg, 22 in.; length -of back, 18½ in.; arm to tip of finger, 19¾ in.</p> - -<p>This was the first full-grown man we had seen. His colour was coppery, -the fell over the body was almost furry, being nearly half an inch in -length. His head-dress was a bonnet of a priestly form, decorated with a -bunch of parrot feathers; it was either a gift or had been stolen. A -broad strip of bark cloth covered his nakedness. His hands were very -delicate, and attracted attention by their unwashed appearance. He had -evidently been employed in peeling plantains.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1888.<br />Oct. 28.<br />Avatiko.</div> - -<p>Not one London editor could guess the feelings with which I regarded -this mannikin from the solitudes of the vast central African forest. To -me he was far more venerable than the Memnonium of Thebes. That little -body of his represented the oldest types of primeval man, descended from -the outcasts of the earliest ages, the Ishmaels of the primitive race, -for<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_041" id="page_041"></a>{41}</span> ever shunning the haunts of the workers, deprived of the joy and -delight of the home hearth, eternally exiled by their vice, to live the -life of human beasts in morass and fen and jungle wild. Think of it! -Twenty-six centuries ago his ancestors captured the five young -Nassamonian explorers, and made merry with them at their villages on the -banks of the Niger. Even as long as forty centuries ago they were known -as pigmies, and the famous battle between them and the storks was -rendered into song. On every map since Hekataeus’ time, 500 years <small>B.C.</small>, -they have been located in the region of the Mountains of the Moon. When -Mesu led the children of Jacob out of Goshen, they reigned over<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_042" id="page_042"></a>{42}</span> Darkest -Africa undisputed lords; they are there yet, while countless dynasties -of Egypt and Assyria, Persia, Greece and Rome, have flourished for -comparatively brief periods, and expired. And these little people have -roamed far and wide during the elapsed centuries. From the Niger banks, -with successive waves of larger migrants, they have come hither to pitch -their leafy huts in the unknown recesses of the forest. Their kinsmen -are known as Bushmen in Cape Colony, as Watwa in the basin of the -Lulungu, as Akka in Monbuttu, as Balia by the Mabodé, as Wambutti in the -Ihuru basin, and as Batwa under the shadows of the Lunae Montes.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill-041_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/ill-041_sml.jpg" width="255" height="337" alt="DWARF CAPTIVE AT AVATIKO." -title="DWARF CAPTIVE AT AVATIKO." /></a><br /> -<span class="caption">DWARF CAPTIVE AT AVATIKO.</span> -</p> - -<p>As the gigantic Madis, and tall Soudanese, and tallest Zanzibaris -towered above the little man, it was delightful to observe the thoughts -within him express themselves with lightning rapidity on his face. The -wonderment that filled him, the quick shifting and chilling fears as to -his fate, the anxious doubts that possessed him, the hopes that sprang -up as he noted humour on the faces, the momentary shades of anxiety, -curiosity to know whence these human monsters had come from, what they -would do with him eventually; would they kill him, how? by roasting him -alive, or plunging him screaming into a vat-like cooking pot? Ach Gott! -I hope not, and a slight shake of the head, with a more pallid colour on -the lips and a nervous twitch showed what distress he was in. He would -do anything to deserve the favour of these big men, just as the young -Nassamonians were willing to do 2600 years ago, when his pigmy -forefathers pointed their fingers and jabbered at them in the old -Nigritian village. So we took him to sit by us, and stroked him on the -back, gave him some roast bananas to put into that distended aldermanic -abdomen of his, and the pigmy smiled his gratitude. What a cunning rogue -he was! how quick-witted! He spoke so eloquently by gesture that he was -understood by the dullest of us.</p> - -<p>“How far is it to the next village where we can procure food?<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_043" id="page_043"></a>{43}</span>”</p> - -<p>He placed the side of his right hand across the left wrist. (More than -two days’ march.)</p> - -<p>“In what direction?”</p> - -<p>He pointed east.</p> - -<p>“How far is it to the Ihuru?”</p> - -<p>“Oh!” He brought his right hand across his elbow joint—that is double -the distance, four days.</p> - -<p>“Is there any food north?”</p> - -<p>He shook his head.</p> - -<p>“Is there any west or north-west?”</p> - -<p>He shook his head, and made a motion with his hand as though he were -brushing a heap of sand away.</p> - -<p>“Why?”</p> - -<p>He made the motion with his two hands as though he were holding a gun, -and said “Doooo!”</p> - -<p>“To be sure the Manyuema have destroyed everything.”</p> - -<p>“Are there any ‘Doooo’ in the neighbourhood, now?”</p> - -<p>He looked up and smiled with a gush as artful as a London coquette, as -if to say, “You know best! Oh! naughty man, why do you chaff me?”</p> - -<p>“Will you show us the road to the village where we can get food?”</p> - -<p>He nodded his head rapidly, patted his full-moon belly, which meant, -“Yes, for there I shall get a full meal; for here”—he smiled -disdainfully as he pressed his thumb nail on the first joint of his left -index finger—“are plantains only so big, but there they are as big as -this,” and he clasped the calf of his leg with two hands.</p> - -<p>“Oh, Paradise!” cried the men, “bananas as big as a man’s leg!” The -pigmy had contrived to ingratiate himself into every man’s affection. My -authority was gone until the story of the monstrous bananas would be -disproved. Some of them looked as if they would embrace him, and his -face mimicked artless innocence, though he knew perfectly well that, in -their opinion, he was only a little lower than an angel.</p> - -<p>And all this time, the coppery face of the nut-brown<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_044" id="page_044"></a>{44}</span> little maid was -eloquent with sympathy in the emotions of the male pigmy. Her eyes -flashed joy, a subtle spirit glided over her features with the -transition of lightning. There were the same tricks of by-play; the same -doubts, the same hopes, the same curiosity, the same chilling fear, was -felt by the impressionable soul as she divined what feelings moved her -kinsman. She was as plump as a thanksgiving turkey or a Christmas goose; -her breasts glistened with the sheen of old ivory, and as she stood with -clasped hands drooping below—though her body was nude—she was the very -picture of young modesty.</p> - -<p>The pair were undoubtedly man and woman. In him was a mimicked dignity, -as of Adam; in her the womanliness of a miniature Eve. Though their -souls were secreted under abnormally thick folds of animalism, and the -finer feelings inert and torpid through disuse, they were there for all -that. And they suited the wild Eden of Avatiko well enough.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1888.<br />Oct. 28.<br />Forest.</div> - -<p>Burdened with fresh supplies of dried plantains, and guided by the -pigmies, we set out from the abandoned grove of Avatiko E.N.E., crossed -the clear stream of Ngoki at noon, and at 3 <small>P.M.</small> were encamped by the -brook Epeni. We observed numerous traces of the dwarfs in the wilds -which we had traversed, in temporary camps, in the crimson skins of the -amoma, which they had flung away after eating the acid fruit, in the -cracked shells of nuts, in broken twigs that served as guides to the -initiated in their mysteries of woodcraft, in bow-traps by the wayside, -in the game-pits sunk here and there at the crossings of game-tracks. -The land appeared more romantic than anything we had seen. We had wound -around wild amphitheatral basins, foliage rising in terraces one above -another, painted in different shades of green, and variegated with -masses of crimson flowers, and glistening russet, and the snowdrop -flowerets of wild mangoes, or the creamy silk floss of the bombax, and -as we looked under a layer of foliage that drooped heavily above us, we -saw the sunken basin below, an impervious mass of leafage grouped crown -to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_045" id="page_045"></a>{45}</span> crown like heaped hills of soft satin cushions, promising luxurious -rest. Now and then troops of monkeys bounded with prodigious leaps -through the branches, others swinging by long tails a hundred feet above -our heads, and with marvellous agility hurling their tiny bodies through -the air across yawning chasms, and catching an opposite branch, resting -for an instant to take a last survey of our line before burying -themselves out of sight in the leafy depths. Ibises screamed to their -mates to hurry up to view the column of strangers, and touracos argued -with one another with all the guttural harshness of a group of Egyptian -fellahs, plantain-eaters, sunbirds, grey parrots, green parroquets, and -a few white-collared eagles either darted by or sailed across the leafy -gulf, or sat drowsily perched in the haze upon aspiring branches. There -was an odour of musk, a fragrance of flowers, perfume of lilies mixed -with the acrid scent of tusky boars in the air; there were heaps of -elephant refuse, the droppings of bush antelopes, the pungent dung of -civets, and simians along the tracks, and we were never long away from -the sound of rushing rivulets or falling cascades, sunlight streamed in -slanting silver lines and shone over the undergrowth and the thick crops -of phrynia, arum, and amoma, until their damp leaves glistened, and the -dewdrops were brilliant with light.</p> - -<p>And the next day our march underneath the eternal shades was through -just such a land, and on the morning of the 1st of November we emerged -into the clearing of Andaki, to refresh our souls with the promised -fruit of its groves. The plantains were not very large, but they were -mature and full, and before an hour had elapsed, the wooden grates were -up, and the fruit lay in heaps of slices on the bars over the fire. The -word was passed that the first and second day of the month should be -employed in preparing as much provisions as every man could carry. We -were in N. Lat. 1° 16½′. Kilonga-Longa’s station was in 1° 6′, and Fort -Bodo in 1° 20′, so that our course was good.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1888.<br />Nov. 2.<br />Audaki.</div> - -<p>On the second some scouts hunting up the various<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_046" id="page_046"></a>{46}</span> tracks extending -eastward came across two women, one of whom said she knew of a great -village to the north where there was food. Another said that Andari lay -E.N.E., four days’ march, where there was such a stock of food that -Andaki was a mere handful compared with it.</p> - -<p>Soon after leaving Andaki, and crossing a broad ridge, we came upon a -vast abandoned clearing. Probably a year had elapsed since the people -had fled, and their settlements had been consumed with fire, for the -banana plants were choked by the voracious undergrowth and wild plants, -and the elephants had trampled through and through, and sported for -months among the wasted groves, and over the crushed Musa plants, -through phrynia flourishing two fathoms deep, and where the stumps of -cut trees had sprouted and grown until their tufted tops were joined to -one another in one great thick carpet of bush. Through this we carved -our way with brandished billhooks and cutlasses; the native women had -lost the track, and were bewildered by the wildly luxuriant shrubbery, -under which we sweated in the damp hot-house heat, and ploughed our way -through the deep green sea, until after ten hours we came to a babbling -rillet, and must perforce camp from sheer exhaustion, though we had made -but five miles.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1888.<br />Nov. 4.<br />Forest.</div> - -<p>On the morning of the fourth we resumed the task, to slash, cut, creep -and crawl, bore through, in and out, to clamber over logs, tread -carefully over gaping rifts in the reeking compost, bend under logs, to -tunnel away with might and main, to drive through—a hungry column of -men was behind, a wilderness before us—to crash headlong through the -plants, veer to the left, and now to the right, to press on and on, to -sharpen the weapons on the stones of the brook; to take a hasty drink to -satisfy our thirst, and again to the work. Cleave away merrily, boys; -sever those creepers; cut those saplings down! No way now? then widen -that game hole in the bush clump! Come, strike with billhook and sword, -axe and cutlass! We must not die like fools in this demon world! This -way and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_047" id="page_047"></a>{47}</span> that, through and through, until after sixteen hours we had cut -a crooked channel through the awful waste, and stood once more under the -lordly crowns of the primeval forest.</p> - -<p>Paddy’s traditional patchy clothes was a dress suit compared to mine, as -I stood woefully regarding the rents and tatters and threads waving in -tassels from my breeches and shirt; and the men smiled, and one said we -looked like rats dragged through the teeth of traps, which I thought was -not a bad simile. But we had no time for talk; we ate a couple of roast -plantains for lunch, and continued our journey, and by 3 <small>P.M.</small> were -within half-an-hour of the Ihuru River.</p> - -<p>The next day, before it was full daylight, we were filing along an -elephant track that ran parallel with the Ihuru, which was at this time -one raging series of rapids its whole length, and sounding its unceasing -uproar in our ears. Numbers of deep tributaries were waded through; but -we maintained a quick pace, owing to the broad track of the elephants, -and by the usual hour of the afternoon nine miles had been covered.</p> - -<p>Thirteen Zanzibaris of the rear column, and one of the Danagla soldiers -of Emin Pasha, had succumbed during the last few days, and I do not know -how many Madis and Manyuema.</p> - -<p>On the evening of the sixth, after a march of eight miles, I became -impressed with the necessity of finding food shortly, unless we were to -witness wholesale mortality. Starvation is hard to bear, but when loads -must be carried upon empty stomachs, and the marches are long, the least -break in the continuity of supply brings with it a train of diseases -which soon thins the ranks. Our Nyanza people were provident, and eked -their stores with mushrooms and wild fruit; but the feeble -manioc-poisoned men of the rear column, Madis and Manyuema, were utterly -heedless of advice and example.</p> - -<p>A youth named Amani, who looked rather faint, was adjured to tell me the -truth about what he had eaten the last two days.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1888.<br />Nov. 6.<br />Forest.</div> - -<p>“I will,” he said. “My mess had a fair provision<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_048" id="page_048"></a>{48}</span> of plantain flour that -would have kept us with ease two days longer; but Sulimani, who carried -it, put it down by the roadside while he went to gather mushrooms. When -he returned the food was gone. He says the Manyuema had stolen it. Each -one of us then on reaching camp last night set out to hunt for -mushrooms, out of which we made a gruel. That is what we had to eat last -night for supper. This morning we have fasted, but we are going to hunt -up mushrooms again.”</p> - -<p>“And what will you eat to-morrow?”</p> - -<p>“To-morrow is in the hands of God. I will live in hopes that I shall -find something.”</p> - -<p>This youth, he was only nineteen, had carried sixty pound of cartridges -in the meantime, and would carry it again to-morrow, and the next day, -until he dropped, and measured his length with eyes upturned to the dark -cope of leaves above, to be left there to mildew and rot; for out of -nothing, nothing can be extracted to feed hungry men. He was only a -solitary instance of over 400 people.</p> - -<p>We reached a Manyuema Camp, and Uledi recognised it as being a place -where he had halted during a forage tour to the west of the Ihuru, while -he was waiting for Messrs. Jephson and Nelson at Ipoto, and the advance -column was journeying to Ibwiri in November, 1887.</p> - -<p>On the 7th a halt was ordered, that a column might be sent under Uledi -to search the clearing of Andari, six miles N.N.W. of the camp, but over -a hundred were so weak that they were unable to go, whereupon the messes -were ordered to bring their pots up, and three handfuls of flour were -placed in each to make gruel with, that they might have strength to -reach the plantation.</p> - -<p>On the 8th, about 200 remained silent in camp awaiting the foragers. In -the afternoon, perceiving that it was too long a fast to wait for them -we served out more plantain flour.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1888.<br />Nov. 9.<br />Forest.</div> - -<p>On the 9th, the foragers had not arrived. Two men had died in camp. One -reeled from the effects of a poisonous fungus, as they came to get -another ration of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_049" id="page_049"></a>{49}</span> flour for their gruel; their steps were more feeble; -the bones of the sternum were fearfully apparent. Three days would find -us all perished, but we were hopeful that every minute we should hear -the murmur of the returning column.</p> - -<p>On the morning of the 10th, anxious for the European provisions which we -were carrying for the officers at Fort Bodo, I had them examined, and -discovered to my consternation that fifty-seven tins of meat, teas, -coffees, milks, were short—had been eaten by the Manyuema. If a look -had potency sufficient to blast them, they would have speedily been -reduced to ashes. “Dear me, how could the tins have vanished?” asked the -chief Sadi. Ah, how? But the provision boxes were taken from his party, -and Winchester and Maxim ammunition cases were served instead to them as -freight.</p> - -<p>At 2 <small>P.M.</small> the column of foragers returned, bringing from three to six -days’ provisions, which they had gathered from an abandoned plantation. -The bearers had refreshed themselves previous to gathering. Now, in -return for my gruel, each member had to refund me one pound of flour, as -my reserve store, and one pound for the sick, who were deprived of the -power to forage, and who were rejected by the messes. So that in this -manner the sick received about eight pounds of flour, or dried -plantains, and I owned a reserve of 200 pounds for future use.</p> - -<p>Within an hour-and-a-half on the 11th we had reached Kilonga-Longa’s -ferry. The natives, fearing a repetition of his raids to the west of the -Ihuru, had destroyed every canoe, and thus prevented me from crossing to -pay Kilonga-Longa another visit, and to settle some accounts with him. -The river was also in flood, and a gaunt and hungry wilderness stretched -all round us. There was no other way for it than to follow the Ihuru -upward until we could find means to cross to the east, or left side. Our -course was now N.E. by N.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1888.<br />Nov. 12.<br />Forest.</div> - -<p>On the 12th, we followed a track, along which quite a<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_050" id="page_050"></a>{50}</span> tribe of pigmies -must have passed. It was lined with amoma fruit-skins, and shells of -nuts, and the crimson rinds of phrynia berries. No wood-beans, or -fenessi, or mabungu, are to be found in this region, as on the south -bank of Ituri River. On reaching camp, I found that at the ferry, near -the native camp at which we starved four days, six people had -succumbed—a Madi, from a poisonous fungus, the Lado soldier, who was -speared above Wasp Rapids, two Soudanese of the rear-column, a Manyuema -boy in the service of Mr. Bonny, and Ibrahim, a fine young Zanzibari, -from a poisoned skewer in the foot.</p> - -<p>During the 13th the great forest was perceptibly improved for travel. -Our elephant and game track had brought us across another track leading -easterly from Andari, and both joined presently, developing to a highway -much patronised by the pigmy tribes. This we followed for two hours. We -could tell where they had stopped to light their pipes, and to crack -nuts, and trap game, and halt to gossip. The twigs were broken three -feet from the ground, showing that they were snapped by dwarfs. Where it -was a little muddy the path showed high delicate insteps, proving their -ancient ancestry and aristocratic descent, and small feet not larger -than those of young English misses of eight years old. The path improved -as we tramped along; it grew a highway of promise. Camps of the dwarfs -were numerous. The soil was ochreous, the trees were larger, and towered -to magnificent heights.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1888.<br />Nov. 13.<br />Forest.</div> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill-050_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/ill-050_sml.jpg" width="538" height="351" alt="ENTERING ANDIKUMU." -title="ENTERING ANDIKUMU." /></a><br /> -<span class="caption">ENTERING ANDIKUMU.</span> -</p> - -<p>I observed as we filed into camp that it was time to obtain a further -supply of food, and rest somewhere, the bearing of the people lacked -confidence, their forms were shrinking under the terrible task, and -perpetual daily toil and round of marching and hunger. I could have wept -at the excess of misfortunes which weighed us daily lower towards the -grave; but we had been for so long strained to bear violent -vicissitudes, and so frequently afflicted with sights of anguish and -suffering, that we were reduced to hear each day’s tale of calamity in -sorrowful silence. What losses we had already borne<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_052" id="page_052"></a>{52}</span><a name="page_053" id="page_053"></a><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_051" id="page_051"></a>{51}</span> were beyond power -of plaint and tear to restore. The morrow’s grief awaited us, as certain -as the morrow’s sun; and to dwell upon the sorrowful past was to unfit -us for what we had yet to bear.</p> - -<p>To make 230 loads equal to the daily lessening number of carriers was a -most aggravating task. Not one out of twenty men but made some complaint -of a severe ulcer, a headache, or threatened rupture, undefined bodily -pains, a whitlow, a thorn in the foot, rheumatism, fever, &c. The loads -remained always the same, but the carriers died.</p> - -<p>On the 14th, the Expedition, after a six hours’ march, approached Anduta -and Andikumu. As the advance guard was pressing in over the logs and -débris of the prostrated forest, some arrows flew, and two men fell -wounded, and immediately boxes and bales were dropped, and quite a -lively skirmish with the tall-hatted natives occurred; but in -half-an-hour the main body of the caravan filed in, to find such a store -of abnormally large plantains that the ravenous men were in ecstacies.</p> - -<p>In extent the clearing was equal to the famous one of Ibwiri. It was -situate in the bosom of hills which rose to the east, west and south. -Along one of the tracks we saw the blazings of the Manyuema on the -trees, and one of the villages was in ruins; but the size of the -clearing had baffled the ravaging horde in their attempt to destroy the -splendid plantain groves.</p> - -<p>On examining the boxes of ammunition before stacking them for the night, -it was found that Corporal Dayn Mohammed had not brought his load in, -and we ascertained that he had laid it at the base of a big tree near -the path. Four headmen were at once ordered to return with the Soudanese -Corporal to recover the box.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1888.<br />Nov. 14.<br />Andikumu.</div> - -<p>Arriving near the spot, they saw quite a tribe of pigmies, men, women -and children, gathered around two pigmy warriors, who were trying to -test the weight of the box by the grummet at each end. Our headmen, -curious to see what they would do with the box, lay<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_054" id="page_054"></a>{54}</span> hidden closely, for -the eyes of the little people are exceedingly sharp. Every member of the -tribe seemed to have some device to suggest, and the little boys hopped -about on one leg, spanking their hips in irrepressible delight at the -find, and the tiny women carrying their tinier babies at their backs -vociferated the traditional wise woman’s counsel. Then a doughty man put -a light pole, and laid it through the grummets, and all the small people -cheered shrilly with joy at the genius displayed by them in inventing a -method for heaving along the weighty case of Remington ammunition. The -Hercules and the Milo of the tribe put forth their utmost strength, and -raised the box up level with their shoulders, and staggered away into -the bush. But just then a harmless shot was fired, and the big men -rushed forward with loud shouts, and then began a chase; and one -over-fat young fellow of about seventeen was captured and brought to our -camp as a prize. We saw the little Jack Horner, too fat by many pounds; -but the story belongs to the headmen, who delivered it with infinite -humour.</p> - -<p>Mr. Bonny was sent to the Ihuru River on the 17th, to examine an old -ferry reported to be there, but returned unsuccessful in finding a -canoe, but with the information that the river appeared to flow from -E.N.E., and was about sixty yards wide, with quiet current, and good -depth.</p> - -<p>The afternoon of the 14th, 15th and 16th of November, were spent by the -people in making amends for their past abstinence. What with boiled, -roasted plantains and porridge, they must have consumed an immense -number. Probably each man had eaten 140 plantains during the three days.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1888.<br />Nov. 19.<br />Anduta.</div> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill-054_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/ill-054_sml.jpg" width="539" height="348" alt="THE SCOUTS DISCOVER THE PYGMIES CARRYING AWAY THE CASE OF AMMUNITION." -title="THE SCOUTS DISCOVER THE PYGMIES CARRYING AWAY THE CASE OF AMMUNITION." /></a><br /> -<span class="caption">THE SCOUTS DISCOVER THE PYGMIES CARRYING AWAY THE CASE OF AMMUNITION.</span> -</p> - -<p>Within a short time after leaving Andikumu on the 19th, we passed -through Anduta; and then the column passed by a picturesque hill called -Kakwa, over a rough country bristling with immense rock fragments and -boulders thickly covered, and surrounded with depths of ferns. Among the -rocks near our camp on this date was found a store of corn and -bananas,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_056" id="page_056"></a>{56}</span><a name="page_057" id="page_057"></a><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_055" id="page_055"></a>{55}</span> which no doubt belonged to the dwarfs. Had the find occurred -a few days previously, there would have been a riotous scramble for -them; but now each man was so burdened with his private stores that they -regarded it with supreme indifference. The men also so suffered from -indigestion after their revel at Andikumu that they were unfit for -travel.</p> - -<p>A five-mile march was made on the 20th. Since striking the dwarfs’ -highway, unlike the loamy soils which absorbed the perpetual rains -nearer the Ituri, the path now led through a stiff red clayey country, -which retained the rain in pools, and made it soapy and slippery.</p> - -<p>At the noonday halt the leader of the van wandered a few hundred yards -ahead on the path and encountered a native caravan from Anditoké, N. The -natives uttered a howl of surprise at perceiving him, but seeing that he -had no weapon, quickly advanced towards him with uplifted spears. But -the howl they had raised had been heard by all at the halting-place, and -the savages were met in time to save the Zanzibari leader. A skirmish -took place, two of the natives were wounded and one was killed, and the -effects of the caravan were captured. These effects consisted of iron -rings, knobs, bracelets, and anklets, and calamus fibre leg-rings, a few -native smith’s tools, and, most singular of all, several unfired -Remington cartridges.</p> - -<p>The first thought that was suggested was that Fort Bodo had either been -evacuated or captured, or that some patrols had been waylaid; but on -reflection we settled on the conviction that these cartridges had -belonged to some raiding parties of Manyuema, but that originally they -were our property.</p> - -<p>The travelling powers of the men was noticeably low on the 21st; they -still suffered from their late debauch. At noon of this day we were in -N. lat. 1° 43′, which proved that, despite every effort to find a path -leading eastward we were advancing north.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1888.<br />Nov. 21.<br />Forest.</div> - -<p>Chama Issa, the last of the Somalis, was reported dead on this day, but -at the noon halt I was greatly gratified to see him; his case, being as -he was the last of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_058" id="page_058"></a>{58}</span> Somalis, excited great interest. A portion from -my own table went to him daily, and two Soudanese were detailed for -extra pay to serve, feed, and carry him. Up to the evening of this day -thirty-two out of the Banalya rear column had perished. At Banalya I had -estimated that about half of the number would not survive. While they -were being carried in the canoes there was no call for exertion, but the -march overland had been most fatal to the unfortunates.</p> - -<p>On the 22nd, soon after the advance had reached camp, a cold and heavy -shower of rain fell, which demoralized many in the column; their failing -energies and their impoverished systems were not proof against cold. -Madis and Zanzibaris dropped their loads in the road, and rushed -helter-skelter for the camp. One Madi managed to crawl near my tent, -wherein a candle was lit, for in a rainstorm the forest, even in -daylight, is as dark as on an ordinary night in the grass-land. Hearing -him groan, I issued out with the candle, and found the naked body rigid -in the mud, unable to move. As he saw the candle flame his eyes dilated -widely, and he attempted to grasp it with his hands. He was at once -borne to a fire, and laid within a few inches of it, and with the -addition of a pint of hot broth made from the Liebig Company’s extract -of meat we restored him to his senses. On the road in front of the rear -guard two Madis died, and also one Zanzibari of the rear column stricken -instantaneously to death by the intensely cold rain.</p> - -<p>We made a march of two hours the next day, and then despatched -forty-five choice men ahead to try and obtain meal for the salvation of -the Banalya men and the Madis, whose powers were too weak for further -effort. The scouts returned within twenty-four hours with a goat, which -was at once slaughtered to make thirty gallons of soup. When thickened -with two pounds of wheaten flour, the soup made a most welcome meal for -over sixty men. We reached Indemau by 10 <small>A.M.</small> on the 25th. The village -was situated in a hollow at the base of a mount, and was distant from -the Dui branch of the Ihuru six miles.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_059" id="page_059"></a>{59}</span></p> - -<div class="sidenote">1888.<br />Nov. 25.<br />Indemau.</div> - -<p>At Indemau the long-enduring members of the Expedition received another -respite from total annihilation. The plantain groves were extensive and -laden with fruit, and especially with ripe mellow plantains whose -fragrance was delicious. But in the same manner that it was impossible -to teach these big children to economise their rations, so it was -impossible to teach them moderation when they found themselves in the -midst of plenty. At Andikumu an army might have been supplied with good -wholesome food, but the inordinate voracity of the famished people had -been followed by severe indigestion, and at Indemau their intemperate -appetites brought on such sickening repletion that we were engaged every -morning in listening to their complaints and administering enemata to -relieve the congested bodies.</p> - -<p>A path from Indemau was discovered, leading across the Dui River; there -was another leading to Indeperri, a large settlement about fifteen miles -N.E. from Fort Bodo. It had been my original purpose to steer a course -through the forest which would take us direct to the grass-land, along a -more northerly route than the line of Ipoto and Fort Bodo, after sending -a detachment to settle accounts with Kilonga-Longa; but in our endeavour -to find a ford or ferry across the Ihuru we had been compelled by the -high flood to continue parallel with the river until now. Observation -proved us to be in N. lat. 1° 47′ and E. long. 29° 7′ 45″. But the -discovery of Remington cartridges among the stores of a native caravan -in these unknown parts, and yet within a reasonable distance of Fort -Bodo, notwithstanding a rational assurance that Fort Bodo was -impregnable and the garrison were now safe with Emin Pasha on the -Nyanza, had intruded doubts in my mind which I thought would best be -resolved by deflecting our course southward, and sweeping past the old -Fort, and seeing with our own eyes what had really occurred. Mr. Bonny -was therefore sent with the chief Rashid and sixty men, to build a -bridge across the Dui River.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1888.<br />Dec. 1.<br />Dui River.</div> - -<p>After a halt of five days the Expedition marched<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_060" id="page_060"></a>{60}</span> from Indemau on the -1st of December for the Dui. Mr. Bonny and old Rashid, with their -assistants, were putting the finishing touches to the bridge, a work -which reflected great credit on all concerned in its construction, but -especially on Mr. Bonny. Without halting an instant the column marched -across the five branches of the Dui, over a length of rough but -substantial woodwork, which measured in the aggregate eighty yards, -without a single accident.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill-060_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/ill-060_sml.jpg" width="327" height="240" alt="BRIDGING THE DUI RIVER." -title="BRIDGING THE DUI RIVER." /></a><br /> -<span class="caption">BRIDGING THE DUI RIVER.</span> -</p> - -<p>On the other side of the Dui we made a rough muster of the people, and -discovered that thirty-four of the rear column had died, and that out of -sixteen Zanzibaris on the sick list, fourteen were of the Yambuya party, -and they all appeared to be in such a condition that a few days only -would decide their fate. Every goat and fowl that we could procure were -distributed to these poor people in the hope of saving them. We cooked -for them; Mr. Bonny was directed to administer medicines daily; we -relieved them of every article, excepting their own rations, and yet so -wrecked<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_061" id="page_061"></a>{61}</span> were their systems by what they had endured at Yambuya and -Banalya, that a slight abrasion from plants, branches or creepers, -developed into a raging ulcer, which in three or four days would be -several inches across. Nothing but the comforts and rest obtained in a -metropolitan hospital would have arrested this rapid decline.</p> - -<p>We made a short march to the small village of Andiuba, and from thence -we reached in three hours the large settlement of Addiguhha. On the 4th -we reached Ngwetza in four-and-a-half hours, and formed camp outside of -the plantain-grove. We had passed through ten villages of the pigmies, -but without having seen one of them. The woods were dense, and the -undergrowth flourishing. Belts of sloughy mud, disparted by small -streams, divided one village from another. It was in just such a -locality our camp was pitched on the 4th of December. Presently into the -centre of the camp a full uddered goat, with two fine kids four months -old, walked, and after a short stare of undisguised surprise at the -family, we sprang upon them and secured the undoubted gift of the gods, -and sacrificed them. Half-an-hour later we were told that one of the -Uchu natives attached to Mr. Bonny had received an arrow in his body, -and that the dwarfs had attacked and killed a Manyuema boy. A party was -sent to convey the boy’s body into the woods, where it could be buried -by his friends, but in the morning the meat had been carried away.</p> - -<p>The criers were instructed to proceed through the camp to prepare five -days’ provisions of food. Their cries were heard ringing from end to -end, and huge loads of material for the wooden grates were brought in, -and throughout the 5th the people devoted themselves to the preparation -of flour.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1888.<br />Dec. 5.<br />Ngwetza.</div> - -<p>The next day, as we marched southerly, it was observed that we were -following a gradual slope to the river Ihuru. We crossed six broad and -sluggish streams, with breadths of mud coloured red by iron; banked by -dense nurseries of Raphia Palm and rattan. About 3 <small>P.M.</small> the -advance-guard<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_062" id="page_062"></a>{62}</span> stumbled upon several families of dwarfs, and a capture -was made of an old woman, a girl, and a boy of eighteen, besides a stock -of bananas, and some fowls. The “old” lady was as strong as a horse -apparently, and to the manner of carrying a load of bananas she appeared -to be quite accustomed.</p> - -<p>The family of little people intimated that they knew the forest well, -but they had a strong inclination for an E.N.E. course, which would have -taken us away from Fort Bodo. They were therefore sent to the rear, and -we swung along S., and by E., sometimes S.S.E., traversed six streams on -the 7th, and a similar number on the 8th.</p> - -<p>Soon after the headquarters’ tent had been pitched, and the undergrowth -of leafy plants had been cleared somewhat, I observed a young fellow -stagger; and going up to him I questioned him as to the cause. I was -astonished to be told that it was from weakness, and want of food. Have -you eaten all your five days’ rations already? No, he had thrown it away -because the dwarf captives had said that in one day they would reach a -famous place for plantains, the “biggest in the world.”</p> - -<p>Upon extending my inquiries it was found that there were at least 150 -people in the camp who had likewise followed his example, and discarded -superfluous food, and on that day, the 8th, they had nothing. The -headmen were called that night to a council, and after being reproached -for their reckless conduct, it was resolved that on the next day almost -every able-bodied person should return to Ngwetza which we had left on -the morning of the 6th. The distance was 19½ hours for the caravan, but -as much time was necessarily lost in cutting through the jungly -undergrowth, and even now and then in laying a course, the forage party -would be able to return to Ngwetza in eleven hours’ travel.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1888.<br />Dec. 5.<br />Ngwetza.</div> - -<p>On the morning of the 9th, about 200 people started for the plantain -groves of Ngwetza, but before departing they contributed about 200 lbs. -of plantain flour as a reserve for the sickly ones, and guards of the -camp.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_063" id="page_063"></a>{63}</span> We were about 130 in number, men, women and pigmies, the majority -of whom were already distressed. I gave half-a-cupful of flour to each -person for the day, then despatched Mr. Bonny with ten men to find the -Ihuru River. According to my calculations, the camp was in N. lat. 1° -27′ 15″, and E. long. 29° 21′ 30″, about nine geographical miles in an -air-line north of Fort Bodo, but it was useless to show the chart to men -dreading that starvation was again imminent. All they saw was the -eternal myriads of trees with a dead black unknown environing the camp -round about, shutting out all hope, and a viewless and stern prospect of -rigid wood with a dark cope of leaves burying them out of sight of sky -and sunshine, as though they lived under a pall. But they knew that the -Ihuru was not far from Fort Bodo, and if Mr. Bonny and his men -discovered it, some little encouragement would be gained. Mr. Bonny -succeeded in finding the river, and blazed a path to it.</p> - -<p>For employment’s sake I sat down to recalculate all my observations with -exactitude, to correct certain discrepancies that our journeys over the -same ground had enabled me to detect; and buried in my Norie, and -figures and charts, my mind was fully occupied. But on the 14th my work -was done. I lived in hope the next day, with my hearing on the strain -for the sound of voices. The people looked miserable, but hopeful. A box -of European provisions was opened, a pot of butter and milk were taken -out, and a table-spoonful of each dropped into the earthenware pots that -were already filled with boiling water. In this manner a thin broth was -made which would serve to protract the agony of existence. On the sixth -day the pots were again ranged round me in a semi-circle, and in -rotation, each cook brought his vessel of hot water to receive his -butter and milk, and after being well stirred, marched off with his -group to distribute the broth according to measure. A little heartened -by the warm liquid they scattered through the woods to hunt up the red -berries of the phrynia, and pick up now and then the amomum, whose -sour-sweet pulp appeared to quiet the gnawing of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_064" id="page_064"></a>{64}</span> stomach. A -mushroom in the course of several hundred yards’ rambling would perhaps -fall to the lot of the seeker. But when 130 men have wandered about and -about, to and fro, searching for the edibles, the circle widens, and day -by day the people had to penetrate further and further away from the -camp. And it happened that while searching with eagerness, impelled on -and on by the eager stomach, that they were carried some miles away, and -they had paid no regard to the course they were going; and when they -wished to return to camp they knew not which way to seek it, and two -full-grown men and Saburi, a little boy of eight years, did not return. -I had a peculiar liking for the small child. His duty was to carry my -Winchester, and cartridge pouch. He was usually a dark cherub, round as -a roller, strong and sturdy, with an old man’s wisdom within his little -boy’s head, and frequently when the caravan was on its mettle, and a -fair road before it, I looked back often and often to see how little -Saburi trotted steadily after me. Being the rifle-bearer, trained to be -at my heels at any strange sound, I deprived myself of many a choice bit -to nourish Saburi with, so that his round stomach had drawn a smile from -all who looked at him. He looked like a little boy with a keg under his -frock. But, alas! in the last few days the keg had collapsed, and he, -like all the others, had penetrated into the wilderness of phrynia to -search for berries. On this day he was lost.</p> - -<p>In the dark the muzzle-loaders of the Manyuema were employed to fire -signals. About 9 <small>P.M.</small> we thought we heard the little boy’s voice. The -halloo was sounded, and a reply came from the other end of the camp. One -of the great ivory horns boomed out its deep sound. Then the cry came -from the opposite side. Some of the men said that it must be Saburi’s -ghost wailing his death. The picture of the little fellow seeing the -dark night come down upon him with its thick darkness in those eerie -wilds, with fierce dwarfs prowling about, and wild boar and huge -chimpanzee, leopards and cheetahs, with troops of elephants trampling -and crashing the crisp<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_065" id="page_065"></a>{65}</span> phrynia, and great baboons beating hollow -trees—everything terrifying, in fact, round about him—depressed us -exceedingly. We gave him up for lost.</p> - -<p>It had been an awful day. In the afternoon a boy had died. Three persons -were lost. The condition of the majority was most disheartening. Some -could not stand, but fell down in the effort. These sights began to act -on my nerves, until I began to feel not only moral sympathy, but -physical as well, as though bodily weakness was infectious.</p> - -<p>On my bed that night the thought of the absent men troubled me; but -however distasteful was the idea that a terrible misfortune—such as -being lost in the woods, or collapsing from hunger before they reached -the groves—it became impossible not to regard the darkest view and -expect the worst, in order, if possible, to save a remnant of the -Expedition that the news might be carried to the Pasha and thence to -civilisation some day. I pictured the entire column perished here in -this camp, and the Pasha wondering month after month what had become of -us, and we corrupting and decaying in this unknown corner in the great -forest, and every blaze on the trees healed up, and every trail -obliterated within a year, and our burial-place remaining unknown until -the end of time. Indeed, it appeared to me as if we were drifting -steadily towards just such a fate. Here were about 200 men without food -going thirty-five miles to seek it. Not 150 would perhaps reach it; the -others would throw themselves, like the Madis, to the ground, to wait, -to beg from others, if perchance they returned. If an accident to the 50 -bravest men happen, what then? Some are shot down by dwarfs; the larger -aborigines attack the others in a body. The men have no leader; they -scatter about, they become bewildered, lose their way, or are speared -one after another. While we are waiting, ever waiting for people who -cannot return, those with me die first by threes, sixes, tens, twenties, -and then, like a candle extinguished, we are gone. Nay, something had to -be done.</p> - -<p>On the sixth day we made the broth as usual, a pot<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_066" id="page_066"></a>{66}</span> of butter and a pot -of milk for 130 people, and the headmen and Mr. Bonny were called to -council. On proposing a reverse to the foragers of such a nature as to -cause an utter loss of all, they appeared unable to comprehend such a -possibility, though folly after folly, madness after madness, had marked -every day of my acquaintance with them. The departure of men secretly on -raids, and never returning, the leaping of fifty men into the river -after a bush antelope, the throwing away of their rations after fifteen -months’ experiences of the forest, the reckless rush into guarded -plantations, skewering their feet, the inattention they paid to -abrasions leaving them to develope into rabid ulcers; the sale of their -rifles to men who would have enslaved them all, follies practised by -blockheads day after day, week after week; and then to say they could -not comprehend the possibility of a fearful disaster. Were not 300 men -with three officers lost in the wood for six days? Were not three -persons lost close to this camp yesterday and they have not returned? -Did I not tell these men that we should all die if they were not back on -the fourth day? Was not this the sixth day of their absence? Were there -not fifty people close to death now? and much else of the same kind?</p> - -<p>By-and-by, the conviction stole on their minds that if by accident we -were to remain in camp inactive for three days, we should then be too -weak to seek food; and they agreed with me that it would be a wise thing -to bury the goods, and set out on our return to Ngwetza to procure food -for ourselves. But there was one difficulty. If we buried the goods, and -fifty sick men preferred to remain in the camp to following us, should -we return to the <i>caché</i>, we should find that the sick had exhumed the -goods, and wrecked everything out of pure mischief.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill-066_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/ill-066_sml.jpg" width="539" height="349" alt="STARVATION CAMP: SERVING OUT MILK AND BUTTER FOR BROTH." -title="STARVATION CAMP: SERVING OUT MILK AND BUTTER FOR BROTH." /></a><br /> -<span class="caption">STARVATION CAMP: SERVING OUT MILK AND BUTTER FOR BROTH.</span> -</p> - -<p>Mr. Bonny then came to the rescue, and offered to stay with ten men in -camp, if I provided food for him and the garrison for ten days, the time -we decided we should be absent. Food to make a light gruel for so<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_068" id="page_068"></a>{68}</span><a name="page_069" id="page_069"></a><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_067" id="page_067"></a>{67}</span> -small a number for ten days was not difficult to find. Half a cupful of -cornflour per man for thirteen men for ten days was measured, with the -addition of four milk biscuits per man each day. A few tins of butter -and condensed milk were also set apart to assist the gruel. For those -unwilling or unable to follow us to the plantains we could do nothing. -What might sustain a small garrison of thirteen men for many days would -not save the lives of fifty when they were already so far gone, that -only an abundance of digestive plantain flour could possibly save them.</p> - -<p>On this morning little Saburi walked into camp quite unconcerned, and -fresh as from a happy outing. “Why Saburi! where have you been?” “I lost -my way while picking berries, and I wandered about, and near night I -came to a track. I saw the marks of the axes, and I said—Lo! this is -our road, and I followed it thinking I was coming to camp. But, instead -of that, I saw only a big river. It was the Ihuru! Then I found a big -hollow tree, and I went into it and slept; and then I came back along -the road, and so and so, until I walked in here. That is all.”</p> - -<p>We mustered every soul alive in the camp on the morning of the 15th. -Sadi, the Manyuema headman, reported fourteen of his people unable to -travel; Kibbobora reported his sick brother as being the only person of -his party too sick to move; Fundi had a wife and a little boy too weak -for the journey. The Expedition was obliged to leave 26. 43 persons -verging on dissolution unless food could be procured within twenty-four -hours. Assuming a cheery tone, though my heart was well-nigh breaking, I -told them to be of good courage, that I was going to hunt up the -absentees, who no doubt were gorging themselves; most likely I should -find them on the road, in which case they would have to run all the way. -“Meantime, pray for my success. God is the only one who can help you!”</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1888.<br />Dec. 9.<br />Starvation Camp.</div> - -<p>We set out 1 <small>P.M.</small> on our return journey towards Ngwetza, thirty-five -miles distant, with sixty-five men and boys and twelve women. We -travelled until night,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_070" id="page_070"></a>{70}</span> and then threw ourselves on the ground, -scattered about in groups, or singly, each under his own clump of bush, -silent and sad, and communing with his own thoughts. Vain was it for me -to seek for that sleep which is the “balm of hurt minds.” Too many -memories crowded about me; too many dying forms haunted me in the -darkness; my lively fancies were too distorted by dread, which painted -them with dismal colours; the stark forms lying in links along the path, -which we had seen that afternoon in our tramp, were things too solemn -for sudden oblivion. The stars could not be seen to seek comfort in -their twinkling; the poor hearts around me were too heavy to utter -naught but groans of despair; the fires were not lit, for there was no -food to cook—my grief was great. Out of the pall-black darkness came -out the eerie shapes that haunt the fever-land, that jibe and mock the -lonely man, and weave figures of flame, and draw fiery forms in the -mantle of the night; and whispers breathed through the heavy air of -graves and worms, and forgetfulness; and a demon hinted in the dazed -brain that ‘twere better to rest than to think with a sickening heart; -and the sough of the wind through the crowns of the thick-black bush -seemed to sigh and moan “Lost! lost! lost! Thy labour and grief are in -vain. Comfortless days upon days; brave lives are sobbing their last; -man after man roll down to the death, to mildew and rot, and thou wilt -be left alone!”</p> - -<p>“Allah ho Akbar,” was the cry that rang through the gloom, from a man -with a breaking heart. The words went pealing along through the dark, -and they roused the echoes of “God is great” within me. Why should a -Moslem recall a Christian to thoughts of his God? “Ye fools, when will -ye be wise? He that planted the ear, shall He not hear? He that formed -the eye, shall He not see?” And, lo! worthier thoughts possess the mind, -the straining of the eyes through the darkness is relaxed, and the sight -is inverted to see dumb witnesses of past mercies on this or that -forgotten occasion; one memory begets another, until the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_071" id="page_071"></a>{71}</span> stubborn heart -is melted, and our needs are laid as upon a tablet before the Great -Deliverer.</p> - -<p>Towards morning I dozed, to spring up a few hours later as the darkness -was fading, and a ghostly light showed the still groups of my -companions.</p> - -<p>“Up, boys, up! to the plantains! up! Please God we shall have plantains -to-day!” This was uttered to cheer the sad hearts. Within a few minutes -we had filed away from our earthy couches, and were on the track in the -cheerless light of the morning, some hobbling from sores, some limping -from ulcers, some staggering from weakness. We had commenced to feel -warmed up with the motion of the march, when, hark! I heard a murmur of -voices ahead. Little Saburi held the rifle ready, observant of the least -sign of the hand, when I saw a great pile of green fruit rising above -the broad leaves of the phrynia that obstructed a clear view, and -intuitively one divined that this must be the column of foragers -advancing to meet us, and in a second of time, the weak, the lame, and -the cripple, the limping and moaning people forgot their griefs and -their woes, and shouted the grateful chant which goes up of its own -accord towards the skies out of the full and sensitive hearts, “Thanks -be to God.” Englishman and African, Christian and Pagan, all alike -confess Him. He is not here, or there, but everywhere, and the heart of -the grateful man confesseth Him.</p> - -<p>It needed only one view of the foremost men to have told what the -heedless, thoughtless herd had been doing. It was no time for -reproaches, however, but to light fires, sit down and roast the green -fruit, and get strength for the return, and in an hour we were swinging -away back again to Starvation Camp, where we arrived at 2.30 <small>P.M.</small>, to be -welcomed as only dying men can welcome those who lend the right hand to -help them. And all that afternoon young and old, Zanzibari and Manyuema, -Soudanese and Madi, forgot their sorrows of the past in the pleasures of -the present, and each vowed to be more provident in the future—until -the next time.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_072" id="page_072"></a>{72}</span></p> - -<div class="sidenote">1888.<br />Dec. 17.<br />Ihuru River.</div> - -<p>On the 17th we reached the Ihuru, and the next day forded the river, and -from thence we cut our way through the forest, through bush and plants -which were the undergrowth, and early in the afternoon of the 19th we -emerged out of the trackless bush, and presently were on the outskirts -of the plantations of Fort Bodo, at which all the people admired -greatly.</p> - -<p>On the 20th we cut a track through the deserted plantations, and after -an hour’s hard work reached our well-known road, which had been so often -patrolled by us. We soon discovered traces of recent travel, and late -foraging in piles of plantain skins near the track; but we could not -discover by whom these were made. Probably the natives had retired to -their settlements; perhaps the dwarfs were now banqueting on the fat of -the land. We approached the end of our broad western military road, and -at the turning met some Zanzibari patrols who were as much astonished as -we were ourselves at the sudden encounter. Volley after volley soon rang -through the silence of the clearing. The fort soon responded, and a -stream of frantic men, wild with joy, advanced by leaps and bounds to -meet us; and among the first was my dear friend the Doctor, who -announced, with eyes dancing with pleasure, “All is well at Fort Bodo.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_073" id="page_073"></a>{73}</span>”</p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXIII" id="CHAPTER_XXIII"></a>CHAPTER XXIII.<br /><br /> -<small>THE GREAT CENTRAL AFRICAN FOREST.</small></h2> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hangg">Professor Drummond’s statements respecting Africa—Dimensions of -the great forest—Vegetation—Insect life—Description of the -trees, &c.—Tribes and their food—The primæval forest—The bush -proper—The clearings: wonders of vegetable life—The queer feeling -of loneliness—A forest tempest—Tropical vegetation along the -banks of the Aruwimi—Wasps’ nests—The forest typical of human -life—A few secrets of the woods—Game in the forest—Reasons why -we did not hunt the animals—Birds—The Simian tribe—Reptiles and -insects—The small bees and the beetles—The “jigger”—Night -disturbances by falling trees, &c.—The Chimpanzee—The rainiest -zone of the earth—The Ituri or Upper Aruwimi—The different tribes -and their languages—Their features and customs—Their -complexion—Conversation with some captives at Engweddé—The -Wambutti dwarfs: their dwellings and mode of living—The Batwa -dwarfs—Life in the forest villages—Two Egyptians captured by the -dwarfs at Fort Bodo—The poisons used for the arrows—Our treatment -for wounds by the arrows—The wild fruits of the forest—Domestic -animals—Ailments of the Madis and Zanzibaris—The Congo Railway -and the forest products.</p></div> - -<div class="sidenote">1888.<br />Dec.<br />Forest.</div> - -<p>An English Professor, qualified to write F.R.S.E., F.G.S., after his -name, who is a talented writer, and gifted with first-class descriptive -powers, while confessing that he was but a “minor traveller, possessing -but few assets,” ventured upon the following bold statements respecting -Africa:—</p> - -<p>“Cover the coast belt with rank yellow grass, dot here and there a palm, -scatter through it a few demoralised villages, and stock it with the -leopard, the hyena, the crocodile, and the hippopotamus; clothe the -mountainous plateaux next, both of them with endless forest, not grand -umbrageous forest, like the forests of South America, nor matted jungle -like the forests of India, but with thin, rather weak forest, with -forest of low trees, whose half-grown trunks and scanty leaves<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_074" id="page_074"></a>{74}</span> offer no -shade from the tropical sun,”—but you will find nothing in all these -trees to remind you that you are in the tropics. “Day after day you may -wander through these forests with nothing except the climate to remind -you where you are * * * * *.” “The fairy labyrinth of ferns and palms, -the festoons of climbing plants blocking the paths and scenting the -forests with their resplendent flowers, the gorgeous clouds of insects, -the gaily plumaged birds, the parraquets, the monkey swinging from his -trapeze in the shaded bowers—these are unknown to Africa.”</p> - -<p>“Once a week you will see a palm; once in three months the monkeys will -cross your path; the flowers on the whole are few, the trees are poor, -and, to be honest”—but enough; if this is honest description, the -reader had better toss my books aside, for this chapter goes to prove -that I differ in toto with the learned Professor’s views respecting -tropical Africa.</p> - -<p>We have travelled together thus far 1670 miles through the great central -African forest, and we can vouch that the above description by Professor -Drummond bears no more resemblance to tropical Africa than the tors of -Devon, or the moors of Yorkshire, or the downs of Dover represent the -smiling scenes of England, of leafy Warwickshire, the gardens of Kent, -and the glorious vales of the isle. Nyassaland is not Africa, but -itself. Neither can we call the wilderness of Masai Land, or the -scrub-covered deserts of Kalahari, or the rolling grass land of Usukuma, -or the thin forests of Unyamwezi, or, the ochreous acacia-covered area -of Ugogo, anything but sections of a continent that boasts many zones. -Africa is about three times greater than Europe in its extent, and is -infinitely more varied. You have the desert of deserts in the Sahara, -you have the steppes of Eastern Russia in Masai Land and parts of South -Africa, you have the Castilian uplands in Unyamwezi, you have the best -parts of France represented by Egypt, you have Switzerland in Ukonju and -Toro, the Alps in Ruwenzori—you have Brazil in the Congo basin, the -Amazon in the Congo River, and its<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_075" id="page_075"></a>{75}</span> immense forests rivalled by the -Central African forest which I am about to describe.</p> - -<p>The greatest length of this forest, that is from near Kabambarré in -South Manyuema to Bagbomo on the Welle-Makua in West Niam-niam, is 621 -miles; its average breadth is 517 miles, which makes a compact square -area of 321,057 square miles. This is exclusive of the forest areas -separated or penetrated into by campo-like reaches of grass land, or of -the broad belts of timber which fill the lower levels of each great -river basin like the Lumani, Lulungu, Welle-Mubangi, and the parent -river from Bolobo to the Loika River.</p> - -<p>The Congo and the Aruwimi rivers enabled us to penetrate this vast area -of primeval woods a considerable length. I only mean to treat, -therefore, of that portion which extends from Yambuya in 25° 3½′ E. L. -to Indesura, 29° 59′ = 326½ English miles in a straight line.</p> - -<p>Now let us look at this great forest, not for a scientific analysis of -its woods and productions, but to get a real idea of what it is like. It -covers such a vast area, it is so varied and yet so uniform in its -features, that it would require many books to treat of it properly. Nay, -if we regard it too closely, a legion of specialists would be needed. We -have no time to examine the buds and the flowers or the fruit, and the -many marvels of vegetation, or to regard the fine differences between -bark and leaf in the various towering trees around us, or to compare the -different exudations in the viscous or vitrified gums, or which drip in -milky tears or amber globules, or opaline pastils, or to observe the -industrious ants which ascend and descend up and down the tree shafts, -whose deep wrinkles of bark are as valleys and ridges to the insect -armies, or to wait for the furious struggle which will surely ensue -between them and yonder army of red ants. Nor at this time do we care to -probe into that mighty mass of dead tree, brown and porous as a sponge, -for already it is a mere semblance of a pro<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_076" id="page_076"></a>{76}</span>strate log. Within it is -alive with minute tribes. It would charm an entomologist. Put your ear -to it, and you hear a distinct murmurous hum. It is the stir and -movement of insect life in many forms, matchless in size, glorious in -colour, radiant in livery, rejoicing in their occupations, exultant in -their fierce but brief life, most insatiate of their kind, ravaging, -foraging, fighting, destroying, building, and swarming everywhere and -exploring everything. Lean but your hand on a tree, measure but your -length on the ground, seat yourself on a fallen branch, and you will -then understand what venom, fury, voracity, and activity breathes around -you. Open your notebook, the page attracts a dozen butterflies, a -honey-bee hovers over your hand; other forms of bees dash for your eyes; -a wasp buzzes in your ear, a huge hornet menaces your face, an army of -pismires come marching to your feet. Some are already crawling up, and -will presently be digging their scissor-like mandibles in your neck. -Woe! woe!</p> - -<p>And yet it is all beautiful—but there must be no sitting or lying down -on this seething earth. It is not like your pine groves and your dainty -woods in England. It is a tropic world, and to enjoy it you must keep -slowly moving.</p> - -<p>Imagine the whole of France and the Iberian peninsula closely packed -with trees varying from 20 to 180 feet high, whose crowns of foliage -interlace and prevent any view of sky and sun, and each tree from a few -inches to four feet in diameter. Then from tree to tree run cables from -two inches to fifteen inches in diameter, up and down in loops and -festoons and W’s and badly-formed M’s; fold them round the trees in -great tight coils, until they have run up the entire height, like -endless anacondas; let them flower and leaf luxuriantly, and mix up -above with the foliage of the trees to hide the sun, then from the -highest branches let fall the ends of the cables reaching near to the -ground by hundreds with frayed extremities, for these represent the air -roots of the Epiphytes; let slender cords hang down also in tassels<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_077" id="page_077"></a>{77}</span> -with open thread-work at the ends. Work others through and through these -as confusedly as possible, and pendent from branch to branch—with -absolute disregard of material, and at every fork and on every -horizontal branch plant cabbage-like lichens of the largest kind, and -broad spear-leaved plants—these would represent the elephant-eared -plant—and orchids and clusters of vegetable marvels, and a drapery of -delicate ferns which abound. Now cover tree, branch, twig, and creeper -with a thick moss like a green fur. Where the forest is compact as -described above, we may not do more than cover the ground closely with a -thick crop of phrynia, and amoma, and dwarf bush; but if the lightning, -as frequently happens, has severed the crown of a proud tree, and let in -the sunlight, or split a giant down to its roots, or scorched it dead, -or a tornado has been uprooting a few trees, then the race for air and -light has caused a multitude of baby trees to rush upward—crowded, -crushing, and treading upon and strangling one another, until the whole -is one impervious bush.</p> - -<p>But the average forest is a mixture of these scenes. There will probably -be groups of fifty trees standing like columns of a cathedral, grey and -solemn in the twilight, and in the midst there will be a naked and gaunt -patriarch, bleached white, and around it will have grown a young -community, each young tree clambering upward to become heir to the area -of light and sunshine once occupied by the sire. The law of -primogeniture reigns here also.</p> - -<p>There is also death from wounds, sickness, decay, hereditary disease and -old age, and various accidents thinning the forest, removing the unfit, -the weakly, the unadaptable, as among humanity. Let us suppose a tall -chief among the giants, like an insolent son of Anak. By a head he lifts -himself above his fellows—the monarch of all he surveys; but his pride -attracts the lightning, and he becomes shivered to the roots, he -topples, declines, and wounds half a dozen other trees in his fall. This -is why we see so many tumorous excrescences,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_078" id="page_078"></a>{78}</span> great goitrous swellings, -and deformed trunks. The parasites again have frequently been outlived -by the trees they had half strangled, and the deep marks of their -forceful pressure may be traced up to the forks. Some have sickened by -intense rivalry of other kinds, and have perished at an immature age; -some have grown with a deep crook in their stems, by a prostrate log -which had fallen and pressed them obliquely. Some have been injured by -branches, fallen during a storm, and dwarfed untimely. Some have been -gnawed by rodents, or have been sprained by elephants leaning on them to -rub their prurient hides, and ants of all kinds have done infinite -mischief. Some have been pecked at by birds, until we see ulcerous sores -exuding great globules of gum, and frequently tall and short nomads have -tried their axes, spears, and knives, on the trees, and hence we see -that decay and death are busy here as with us.</p> - -<p>To complete the mental picture of this ruthless forest, the ground -should be strewn thickly with half formed humus of rotting twigs, -leaves, branches; every few yards there should be a prostrate giant, a -reeking compost of rotten fibres, and departed generations of insects, -and colonies of ants, half veiled with masses of vines and shrouded by -the leafage of a multitude of baby saplings, lengthy briars and calamus -in many fathom lengths, and every mile or so there should be muddy -streams, stagnant creeks, and shallow pools, green with duckweed, leaves -of lotus and lilies, and a greasy green scum composed of millions of -finite growths. Then people this vast region of woods with numberless -fragments of tribes, who are at war with each other and who live apart -from ten to fifty miles in the midst of a prostrate forest, amongst -whose ruins they have planted the plantain, banana, manioc, beans, -tobacco, colocassia, gourds, melons, &c., and who, in order to make -their villages inaccessible, have resorted to every means of defence -suggested to wild men by the nature of their lives. They have planted -skewers along their paths, and cunningly hidden them under an apparently -stray<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_079" id="page_079"></a>{79}</span> leaf, or on the lee side of a log, by striding over which the -naked foot is pierced, and the intruder is either killed from the poison -smeared on the tops of the skewers, or lamed for months. They have piled -up branches, and have formed abattis of great trees, and they lie in -wait behind with sheaves of poisoned arrows, wooden spears hardened in -fire, and smeared with poison.</p> - -<p>The primeval forest, that is that old growth untouched by man, and left -since the earliest time to thrive and die, one age after another, is -easily distinguishable from that part which at some time or another -afforded shelter for man. The trees are taller and straighter, and of -more colossal girth. It has frequently glades presenting little -difficulty for travel, the invariable obstructions being the arum, -phrynia, and amoma. The ground is firmer and more compact, and the -favourite camping ground for the pigmy nomads are located in such -places. When the plants and small bushes are cut down, we have an airy, -sylvan, and cool temple, delightful for a dwelling.</p> - -<p>Then comes the forest which during a few generations has obliterated all -evidences of former husbandry. A few of the trees, especially of the -soft-wooded kind, have grown to equal height with the ancient -patriarchs, but as soon as man abandoned the clearing, hosts of nameless -trees, shrubs, and plants have riotously hastened to avail themselves of -his absence, and the race for air and light is continued for many years; -consequently the undergrowth by the larger quantity of sunshine becomes -luxuriant, and there are few places penetrable in it without infinite -labour. Among these a variety of palms will be found, especially the -Elais and Raphia vinifera.</p> - -<p>And after this comes the bush proper, the growth of a few years, which -admits no ingress whatever within its shade. We are therefore obliged to -tunnel through stifling masses of young vegetation, so matted and -tangled together that one fancies it would be easier to travel over the -top were it of equal and consistent<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_080" id="page_080"></a>{80}</span> thickness and level. Vigorous young -trees are found imbedded in these solid and compact masses of -vegetation, and these support the climbing plants, the vines, and -creepers. Under these, after a pathway has been scooped out, the unshod -feet are in danger from the thorns, and the sharp cut stalks, which are -apt to pierce the feet and lacerate the legs.</p> - -<p>This last was the character of the bush mostly near the river. Both -banks presented numberless old clearings and abandoned sites; and as the -stream was the only means of communication employed by the tribes, the -only way of effecting any progress was by laborious cutting.</p> - -<p>The clearings which had been abandoned within a year exhibited veritable -wonders of vegetable life, of unsurpassed fecundity, and bewildering -variety of species. The charred poles of the huts became the supports of -climbers whose vivid green leaves soon shrouded the ugliness of -desolation, and every upright and stump assumed the appearance of a -miniature bower, or a massive piece of columned ruin. As the stumps were -frequently twenty feet high, and were often seen in twins, the plants -had gravitated across the space between, and after embracing had -continued their growth along the length of one another, and had formed -in this manner an umbrageous arch, and had twisted themselves in endless -lengths around the supports until it became difficult to find what -supported such masses of delicate vines. In some instances they had -formed lofty twin towers with an arched gateway between, resembling a -great ruin of an old castle, and the whole was gay with purple and white -flowers. The silvered boles of ancient primeval giants long ago ringed -by the axe and doomed to canker and decay, and the great gaunt -far-spreading arms and branchlets had been clothed by vines a -hundred-fold until they seemed like clouds of vivid green, which, under -the influence of sudden gusts, streamed with countless tendrils, or -swayed like immense curtains.</p> - -<p>When marching along with the column, or encamped<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_081" id="page_081"></a>{81}</span> for the night, the -murmur of voices was not congenial to nourishing any fine sentiments -about the forest. We suffered too much hunger, and sustained such -protracted misery; we were preyed upon too often in patience, and -temper, and forbearance. Our clothes, suited well enough for open -country, were no protection against the hostilities of the bush. But if -once we absented ourselves from camp, and the voices of the men died -away, and we forgot our miseries, and were not absorbed by the sense of -the many inconveniences, an awe of the forest rushed upon the soul and -filled the mind. The voice sounded with rolling echoes, as in a -cathedral. One became conscious of its eerie strangeness, the absence of -sunshine, its subdued light, and marvelled at the queer feeling of -loneliness, while inquiringly looking around to be assured that this -loneliness was no delusion. It was as if one stood amid the inhabitants -of another world. We enjoyed life—the one vegetable, the other human. -Standing there so massive and colossal, so silent and still, and yet -with such solemn severity of majesty, it did seem curious that the two -lives, so like in some sense, were yet so incommunicable. It would have -suited the fitness of things, I thought, had a wrinkled old patriarch -addressed me with the gravity and seriousness of a Methuselah, or an -Achillean and powerful bombax, with his buttressed feet planted firm in -the ground, had disdainfully demanded my business in that assembly of -stately forest kings.</p> - -<p>But what thoughts were kindled as we peeped out from an opening in the -woods and looked across the darkening river which reflected the -advancing tempest, and caught a view of the mighty army of trees—their -heights as various as their kind, all rigid in the gloaming, awaiting in -stern array the war with the storm. The coming wind has concentrated its -terrors for destruction, the forked lightning is seen darting its spears -of white flame across the front of infinite hosts of clouds. Out of -their depths issues the thunderbolt, and the march of the winds is heard -coming to the onset. Suddenly the trees, which have stood still—as<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_082" id="page_082"></a>{82}</span> in -a painted canvas—awaiting the shock with secure tranquillity, are seen -to bow their tops in unison, followed by universal swaying and straining -as though a wild panic had seized them. They reel this way and that, but -they are restrained from flight by sturdy stems and fixed roots, and the -strong buttresses which maintain them upright. Pressed backward to a -perilous length they recover from the first blow, and dart their heads -in furious waves forward, and the glory of the war between the forest -and the storm is at its height. Legion after legion of clouds ride over -the wind-tost crests, there is a crashing and roaring, a loud soughing -and moaning, shrill screaming of squalls, and groaning of countless -woods. There are mighty sweeps from the great tree-kings, as though -mighty strokes were being dealt; there is a world-wide rustling of -foliage, as though in gleeful approval of the vast strength of their -sires; there are flashes of pale green light, as the lesser battalions -are roused up to the fight by the example of their brave ancients. Our -own spirits are aroused by the grand conflict—the Berserker rage is -contagious. In our souls we applaud the rush and levelling force of the -wind, and for a second are ready to hail the victor; but the magnificent -array of the forest champions, with streaming locks, the firmness with -which the vast army of trees rise in unison with their leaders, the -rapturous quiver of the bush below inspire a belief that they will win -if they but persevere. The lightning darts here and there with splendour -of light and scathing flame, the thunders explode with deafening -crashes, reverberating with terrible sounds among the army of woods, the -black clouds roll over and darken the prospect; and as cloud becomes -involved within cloud, in the shifting pale light, we have a last view -of the wild war, we are stunned by the fury of the tempest, and the -royal rage of the forest, when down comes the deluge of tropic -rain—which in a short time extinguishes the white heat wrath of the -elements, and soothes to stillness the noble anger of the woods.</p> - -<p>Along the banks of the Aruwimi, a better idea of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_083" id="page_083"></a>{83}</span> tropical vegetation -may be obtained than in any part of Africa, outside of the eastern half -of the Congo basin. The banks are for the most part low, though no one -could guess what height they were, because of the lofty hedges of -creeping plants, which cover every inch of ground from the water’s edge -to as high as fifty feet above in some places, while immediately behind -them rises the black-green forest to the towering height of from 150 to -200 feet above the river. The aspects of the banks vary considerably -however. Abandoned sites of human dwellings possess their own peculiar -wilderness appearance, the virgin forest its own, and as the soil varies -so do its growths.</p> - -<p>Lately abandoned clearings will show, besides inordinate density of -vegetation, gorgeous flowering sections. Above these will probably rise -a few trees with masses of thick, shining leaves, and a profusion of -blood-red flowers, whose petals have been showered on the impervious -mass of leguminous vines of creepers and shrubs below, and strongly -contrast to their own light purple, yellow, or white flowerets. The -amoma show snowy flower-goblets, edged with pink; a wild vine will have -its light purple; a creeper, with pinnate leaves, though flowerless at -the time, will have its foliage tinted auburn; a pepper bush with its -red pods, or a wild mango, attracts attention by myriads of bead-like -flowerets; or an acacia effuses overpowering fragrance from its snowy -buds, or a mimosa with its sweet-smelling yellow blossoms. Different -shades of green are presented by ferns, protruding leaves of sword -grass, a young Elais palm, or the broad and useful leaf of the phrynium. -A young fig-tree, with silver stem, and branching widely, mixes its -leaves with those of the tender leaflets of the sensitive plant and the -palmate calamus; below is a multitude of nettles, and nettle-leafed -plants with stalks and leaves, making a mass of vegetation at once -curious and delightful. Perhaps the base of all this intricate and -inextricable confusion of plants and impervious hill of verdure and -beauty, is a prostrate tree, long ago fallen, fast decaying, black<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_084" id="page_084"></a>{84}</span> with -mould, spread thinly with humus, fungous parasites abounding, and every -crack, cranny, and flaw in it nesting all kinds of insatiable insects, -from the tiny termite to the black centipede or mammoth beetle.</p> - -<p>Further on we see something different. Numberless giant trees, pressing -right up to the edge of the river bank, have caused some to grow -horizontally to the length of fifty feet over the river. Under their -shade a hundred canoes find shelter from a scorching sun. The wood is -yellow and hard as iron. To cut one of these trees would require a score -of American axes. It bears clusters of fruit which when unripe are -russet, and afterwards resemble beautiful damsons. Others of the same -species produce a fruit like ripe dates, but neither are edible.</p> - -<p>These widely-spreading trees are favourites with the black wasps, to -which they attach their pensile nests. Externally the nests are like -fancifully cut brown-paper sacks, or a series of such sacks arranged one -above another, with frills and ornate cuttings, like the fancy paper -grate-covers in English parlours in summer time.</p> - -<p>We avoided such trees religiously, and when there was no such terror as -a big nest of wasps near, we could rest in comfort and examine the -forest at leisure. We first saw besides countless grey columns, -thousands of pendent slender threads and wavy lines, loops, festoons, -clustered groups and broad breadths of grey mingled with more than -studied disorder with darkest depths of green, lightened only by broad -damp leaves reflecting stray glints of sunshine or sprays, and a magic -dust of softened light perpetually shifting and playing, profound spaces -of darkness relieved by a breadth of grey tree trunk, silvered rods of -parasites, or fancy grey filigree of vine stems. As we surveyed the -whole, the eye caught various crimson dots of phrynia berries, or red -knots of amoma fruit, outer fringes of auburn leaves, a cap of a -mushroom staring white out of a loose sheaf of delicate ferns, or snowy -bits of hard fungi clinging like barnacles to a deeply-wrinkled log; the -bright green of orchid<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_085" id="page_085"></a>{85}</span> leaves, the grey green face of a pendent leaf of -an elephant-eared plant—films of moss, tumorous lumps on trees exuding -tears of gum, which swarmed with ants, length after length of whiplike -calamus—squirming and twisting lianes, and great serpent-like -convolvuli, winding in and out by mazy galleries of dark shadows, and -emerging triumphant far above to lean their weight on branches, running -coils at one place, forming loops at another place, and then stretching -loosely their interminable lengths out of sight.</p> - -<p>As I have already said, the forest is typical of the life of humanity. -No single glance can be taken of it without becoming conscious that -decay, and death, and life, are at work there as with us. I never could -cast a leisurely look at it but I found myself, unconsciously, wondering -at some feature which reminded me of some scene in the civilised world. -It has suggested a morning when I went to see the human tide flowing -into the city over London Bridge between half-past seven and half-past -eight, where I saw the pale, overworked, dwarfed, stoop-shouldered, on -their way to their dismal struggle for existence. They were represented -here faithfully, in all their youth, vigour, and decrepitude; one is -prematurely aged and blanched, another is goitrous, another is -organically weak, another is a hunchback, another suffers from poor -nutrition, many are pallid from want of air and sunshine, many are -supported by their neighbours because of constitutional infirmity, many -of them are toppling one over another, as though they were the -incurables of a hospital, and you wonder how they exist at all. Some are -already dead, and lie buried under heaps of leaves, or are nurseries of -bush families and parasites, or are colonised by hordes of destructive -insects; some are bleached white by the palsying thunderbolt, or -shivered by the levin brand, or quite decapitated; or some old veteran, -centuries old, which was born before ever a Christian sailed south of -the Equator, is decaying in core and vitals; but the majority have the -assurance of insolent youth, with all its grace and elegance of form, -the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_086" id="page_086"></a>{86}</span> mighty strength of prime life, and the tranquil and silent pride of -hoary old aristocrats; and you gather from a view of the whole one -indisputable fact—that they are resolved to struggle for existence as -long as they may. We see all characters of humanity here, except the -martyr and suicide. For sacrifice is not within tree nature, and it may -be that they only heard two precepts, “Obedience is better than -sacrifice,” and “Live and multiply.”</p> - -<p>And as there is nothing so ugly and distasteful to me as the mob of a -Derby day, so there is nothing so ugly in forest nature as when I am -reminded of it by the visible selfish rush towards the sky in a -clearing, after it has been abandoned a few years. Hark! the bell -strikes, the race is about to begin. I seem to hear the uproar of the -rush, the fierce, heartless jostling and trampling, the cry, “Self for -self, the devil take the weakest!” To see the white-hot excitement, the -noisy fume and flutter, the curious inequalities of vigour, and the -shameless disregard for order and decency!</p> - -<p>It is worth pausing also to ask why small incidents in such an out of -the way place as the trackless depths of a primeval forest should remind -one of thoughts of friends and their homes in England. The melancholy -sound of the wind fluttering the leafy world aloft, and the sad rustle -of the foliage reminded me vividly of a night spent at —— House, where -I passed half the time listening to the dreadful sighing of the rooky -grove, which filled my mind with forlornness and discomfort. Here again, -as I lay in my tent, were suggested memories of ocean gales, and general -cold, pitiful wretchedness, and when the rain fell in an earnest shower -and the heavy fall of raindrops roused the deep and funereal dirge that -sounded round about me, it seemed to me I heard sad and doleful echoes -of sad and unsatisfied longings, and crowds of unworded thoughts, and -past aspirations, unbreathed sentiments of love, friendship, and -unuttered sympathies advancing with awful distinctness to the sharpened -imagination, until one seemed ready to dissolve in tears and gasp<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_087" id="page_087"></a>{87}</span> -sobbingly, “Oh, my friends, the good God is above all, and knows all -things!”</p> - -<p>These are a few secrets of the woods that one learns in time, even -without a mentor in forestry. To know that the Elais palm while -requiring moisture requires plenty of sunshine to flourish, that the -Raphia palm flourishes best by the sedge-lined swamp and stenchful -sewery ooze, that the Calamus palm requires a thick bush for its -support, that the Phœnix spinosa thrives best by the waterside, and -that the Fan palm is killed by excessive moisture, is not difficult to -learn. But for a stranger in tropic woods, accustomed to oak, beech, -poplar, and pine, he is somewhat mazed at the unfamiliar leafage above -him. By-and-by, however, he can tell at a glance which are the soft and -hard woods. There are several families of soft woods, which stand in -place of the pine and fir in the tropics, and these have invariably -large leaves. It seems to be a rule that the soft woods shall have large -leaves, and the hard woods shall have smaller leaves, though they vary -according to their degrees of strength and durability. The trees of the -Rubiaceæ order, for instance, have leaves almost similar in form and -size to the castor-oil plant. The wood is most useful and workable, fit -to build fleets of wooden vessels, or to be turned into beautiful -domestic utensils—trays, benches, stools, troughs, wooden milk-pots, -platters, mugs, spoons, drums, &c. It serves for boarding, ceiling, -doors, fences, and palisades. Though it is brittle as cedar it will -stand any amount of weather without splitting. There are more than one -species of what is known as cotton-wood, but you may know them all by -the magnificent buttresses, and their unsurpassed height, by the silver -grey of their bark, and by the stiff thorns on their stems, by the white -floss of their flowering and grey-green leaves.</p> - -<p>Then there is the strong African teak, the camwood, the African -mahogany, the green-heart, the lignum vitæ, the everlasting iron-wood, -the no less hard yellow wood by the riverside, infinitely harder than an -oak; the stink-wood, the ebony, the copal-wood tree with its<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_088" id="page_088"></a>{88}</span> glossy and -burnished foliage, the arborescent wild mango, the small-leaved wild -orange, the silver-boled wild fig, the butter tree, the acacia tribes, -the stately mpafu, and the thousands of wild fruit-trees, most of which -are unknown to me. Therefore, to understand what this truly tropical -forest is like you must imagine all these confusedly mixed together, and -lashed together by millions of vines, creepers, and giant convolvuli, -until a perfect tangle has been formed, and sunshine quite shut out, -except a little flickering dust of light here and there to tell you that -the sun is out in the sky like a burning lustrous orb.</p> - -<p>Considering how many months we were in the forest, the hundreds of miles -we travelled through and through it, it is not the least wonder that an -accident never befell one of the Expedition from the beginning to the -end of our life in it, from the fall of a branch or a tree. Trees have -fallen immediately before the van, and directly after the rear guard had -passed; they have suddenly crashed to the earth on our flanks, and near -the camps, by night as well as by day. The nearest escape we had was -soon after we had landed from our boat one day, when a great ruin -dropped into the river close to the stern, raising the boat up high with -the mound of water raised by it, and spraying the crew who were at work.</p> - -<p>Many people have already questioned me respecting the game in the -forest. Elephant, buffalo, wild pig, bush antelopes, coneys, gazelles, -chimpanzees, baboons, monkeys of all kinds, squirrels, civets, wild -cats, genets, zebra—ichneumons, large rodents, are among the few we -know to exist within the woods. The branches swarm with birds and bats, -the air is alive with their sailing and soaring forms, the river teems -with fish and bivalves, oysters and clams; there are few crocodiles and -hippopotami also. But we must remember that all the tribes of the forest -are naturally the most vicious and degraded of the human race on the -face of the earth, though in my opinion they are quite as capable of -improvement as the wild Caledonian, and susceptible of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_089" id="page_089"></a>{89}</span> transformation -into orderly and law-abiding peoples. The forest, however, does not -admit of amicable intercourse. Strangers cannot see one another until -they suddenly encounter, and are mutually paralysed with surprise at the -fact. Instinctively they raise their weapons. One has a sheaf of arrows -to kill game, and a poison as deadly as prussic acid; the other has a -gun which sends a bullet with such force that the frontal bone is -instantly smashed. Supposing that one at least of the parties is so -amiable as to allow the other to kill him; his friends would dub him a -fool, and nothing has been gained. The dead man’s friends must feel -called upon to avenge him, and will hunt the murderer too. Fortunately, -these buried peoples contrive to learn news of any strangers, and -disappear generally in time before their villages are reached. But how -far they have retreated, or how near they may be, is unknown; -consequently as they are in the habit of eating what they kill it would -not be safe for a small hunting party to set out to search for game. -That is one reason why there were no animals hunted.</p> - -<p>Secondly, it is not every person who has the gift of finding his way in -a forest. A dozen times on a day’s march I had to correct the course of -the van. Even such a grand landmark as a river was not sufficient to -serve as a guide to the course. Within 200 yards any man in the -Expedition, if he were turned about a little, would be bewildered to -find his way back to the place whence he started.</p> - -<p>Thirdly, a small party would make too much noise in breaking of twigs, -in treading upon crisp leaves, in brushing against bush, or in cutting a -vine or a creeper to make headway. A wild animal is warned long before -the hunters know that it is near them, and bounds away to distant -coverts. We have suddenly come across elephants, but when they were -within ten yards of us they have crashed their way through a jungle that -was impervious to pursuers. As for buffalo and other game, their tracks -were very common, but it would have been madness to have pursued them -for the above three reasons alone.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_090" id="page_090"></a>{90}</span></p> - -<p>Fourthly, we had too serious an object in view, which was to discover -food and where we were most likely to get it—not for a small party, but -for all.</p> - -<p>As for birds, they made clatter enough overhead, but we were in the -basement, and they were on the roof of a fifteen-storey house. They -could not be seen at all, though their whistlings, warblings, -screamings, and hootings were heard everywhere. There were parrots, -ibis, touracos, parraquets, sunbirds, swifts, finches, shrikes, -whip-poor-wills, hoopoes, owls, guinea fowl, blackbirds, weavers, -kingfishers, divers, fish eagles, kites, wagtails, bee-eaters, pipits, -sandpipers, cockatoos, hornbills, jays, barbets, woodpeckers, pigeons, -and unknown minute tribes, and millions of large and small bats.</p> - -<p>The Simian tribe was well represented. I have caught sight of more than -a dozen species. I have seen the colobus, dark and grey furred baboons, -small black monkeys, galagos and flying squirrels, and others, but not -nearer than a hundred yards. Long before we could reach them they had -been alarmed by the murmur of the caravan, and commenced the retreat.</p> - -<p>We came across a number of reptiles. The Ituri swarms with water snakes -of various lengths. They continued to drop frequently very close to our -boat, slender green whip-snakes, others lead colour of formidable size; -others green, gold and black, six feet long. We saw pythons, puff -adders, horned and fanged snakes, while small bush snakes about two feet -long often fell victims during the preparation of camps.</p> - -<p>Insects would require a whole book. Never have I seen such countless -armies and species as during my various marches through this forest. I -should consider it <i>infra dig.</i> to refer to those minute creatures after -the lavish abuses I, in common with others of the Expedition, have -bestowed on them. I recollect but few hours of daylight that I did not -express myself unkindly towards them. Those bees, large and small, the -wasps, the hordes of moths by night, the house-flies, tsetse, gadflies, -gnats, and butterflies by day, the giant beetles,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_091" id="page_091"></a>{91}</span> attracted by the -light in the tent, sailing through the darkness, and dashing frantically -against the canvas, rebounding in their rage from side to side, and all -the time hoarsely booming, finally with roars of fury dashing themselves -against my book or face, as though they would wreak vengeance on me for -some reason; then the swarms of ants peering into my plate, intruding -into my washy soup, crawling over my bananas, the crickets that sprang -like demons, and fixed themselves in my scalp, or on my forehead; the -shrill cicadæ that drove one mad, worse than the peppo-inspired Manyuema -women. The Pasha professes to love these tribes, and I confess I have -done as much mischief to them as possible.</p> - -<p>The small bees of the size of gnats were the most tormenting of all the -species; we became acquainted with four. They are of the Mellipona. To -read, write, or eat required the devoted services of an attendant to -drive them away. The eyes were their favourite points of attack; but the -ears and nostrils also were sensitive objects to which they invariably -reverted. The donkeys’ legs were stripped bare of hair, because of these -pests. The death of one left an odour of bitter almonds on the hand.</p> - -<p>The beetles, again, varied from the size of a monstrous two-and-a-half -inches in length to an insect that would have bored through the eye of a -tailor’s needle. This last when examined through a magnifying glass -seemed to be efficiently equipped for troubling humanity. It burrowed -into the skin. It could not be discovered by the eyes unless attention -was directed by giving a cross rub with the hand, when a pain like the -prick of a pin was felt. The natives’ huts were infested with three -peculiar species. One burrowed into one’s body, another bored into the -rafters and dropped fine sawdust into the soup, another explored among -the crisp leaves of the roof and gave one a creeping fear that there -were snakes about; a fourth, which was a roaring lion of a beetle, -waited until night and then made it impossible to keep a candle lit for -a quiet pipe and meditation.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_092" id="page_092"></a>{92}</span></p> - -<div class="sidenote">1888.<br />Dec.<br />Forest.</div> - -<p>Among the minor unpleasantnesses which we had to endure we may mention -the “jigger,” which deposited its eggs under the toenails of the most -active men, but which attacked the body of a “goee-goee” and made him a -mass of living corruption; the little beetle that dived underneath the -skin and pricked one as with a needle; the mellipona bee, that troubled -the eyes, and made one almost frantic some days; the small and large -ticks that insidiously sucked one’s small store of blood; the wasps, -which stung one into a raging fever if some careless idiot touched the -tree, or shouted near their haunts; the wild honey-bees, which one day -scattered two canoe crews, and punished them so that we had to send a -detachment of men to rescue them; the tiger-slug, that dropped from the -branches and left his poisonous fur in the pores of the body until one -raved from the pain; the red ants, that invaded the camp by night and -disturbed our sleep, and attacked the caravan half a score of times on -the march, and made the men run faster than if pursued by so many -pigmies; the black ants, which infested the trumpet tree, and dropped on -us when passing underneath, and gave us all a foretaste of the Inferno; -the small ants that invaded every particle of food, which required great -care lest we might swallow half a dozen inadvertently, and have the -stomach membranes perforated or blistered—small as they were, they were -the most troublesome, for in every tunnel made through the bush -thousands of them housed themselves upon us, and so bit and stung us -that I have seen the pioneers covered with blisters as from nettles; -and, of course, there were our old friends the mosquitos in numbers in -the greater clearings.</p> - -<p>But if we were bitten and stung by pismires and numberless tribes of -insects by day, which every one will confess is as bad as being whipped -with nettles, the night had also its alarms, terrors, and anxieties. In -the dead of night, when the entire caravan was wrapped in slumber, a -series of explosions would wake every one. Some tree or another was -nightly struck<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_093" id="page_093"></a>{93}</span> by lightning, and there was a danger that half the camp -might be mangled by the fall of one; the sound of the branches during a -storm was like the roar of breakers, or the rolling of a surge on the -shore. When the rain fell no voice could be heard in the camp, it was -like a cataract with its din of falling waters. Each night almost a dead -tree fell with startling crackle, and rending and rushing, ending with -the sound which shook the earth.</p> - -<p>There were trees parting with a decayed member, and the fall of it made -the forest echo with its crash as though it were a fusillade of -musketry. The night winds swayed the branches and hurled them against -each other, amid a chorus of creaking stems, and swinging cables and -rustle of leaves. Then there was the never-failing crick of the cricket, -and the shriller but not less monotonous piping call of the cicadæ, and -the perpetual chorus of frogs; there was the doleful cry of the lemur to -his mate, a harsh, rasping cry which made night hideous, and loneliness -and darkness repulsive. There was a chimpanzee at solitary exercise -amusing himself with striking upon a tree like the little boys at home -rattle a stick against the area railings. There were the midnight troops -of elephants, who no doubt were only prevented from marching right over -us by the scores of fires scattered about the camp.</p> - -<p>Considering the number of sokos or chimpanzees in this great forest, it -is rather a curious fact that not one of the Expedition saw one alive. -My terrier “Randy” hunted them almost every day between Ipoto and -Ibwiri, and one time was severely handled. I have heard their notes four -several times, and have possessed a couple of their skulls, one of which -I gave to the Pasha; the other, that I was obliged to leave at the time, -was monstrously large.</p> - -<p>In 1887 rain fell during eight days in July, ten days in August, -fourteen days in September, fifteen days in October, seventeen days in -November, and seven days in December, = seventy-one days. From the 1st -of June, 1887, to the 31st of May, 1888, there were 138<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_094" id="page_094"></a>{94}</span> days, or 569 -hours of rain. We could not measure the rain in the forest in any other -way than by time. We shall not be far wrong if we estimate this forest -to be the rainiest zone on the earth.</p> - -<p>For nine months of the year the winds blow from the South Atlantic along -the course of the Congo, and up the Aruwimi. They bear the moisture of -the sea, and the vapours exhaled by a course of 1400 miles of a river -which spreads from half-a-mile to sixteen miles wide, and meeting on -their easterly course the cold atmosphere prevailing at the high -altitude they descend upon the forest almost every alternate day in -copious showers of rain. This forest is also favourably situated to -receive the vapours exhaled by Lakes Tanganika, the Albert Edward, and -Albert Lakes. While standing in the plain on the verge of the forest, I -have seen the two rain clouds, one from the westward and one from the -eastward, collide and dissolve in a deluge of rain on Pisgah Mount and -the surrounding country. Besides the rains, which lasted ten or twelve -hours at a time during our march from Yambuya to Fort Bodo, we had -frequent local showers of short duration. When these latter fell we were -sure that some lofty hill was in the neighbourhood, which had -intercepted a portion of the vapour drifting easterly, and liquified it -for the benefit of the neighbourhood. The rear-guard of the caravan was -sometimes plunged in misery by a heavy rainfall while the pioneers were -enjoying the effects of sunshine above their heads. It occurred at -Mabengu Rapids, and at Engweddé. Being in the depths of the forest we -could not see any sign of a hill, but such sudden showers betrayed the -presence of one in the vicinity. When well away from these localities we -would sometimes look behind down a straight stretch of river, and hilly -masses 500 feet above the river were revealed to us.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill-094_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/ill-094_sml.jpg" width="365" height="634" alt="A PAGE FROM MR. STANLEY’S NOTE-BOOK." -title="A PAGE FROM MR. STANLEY’S NOTE-BOOK." /></a><br /> -<span class="caption">A PAGE FROM MR. STANLEY’S NOTE-BOOK.</span> -</p> - -<p>The Ituri or Upper Aruwimi is therefore seldom very low. We have seen it -in July about six feet below high-water mark. In October one night it -rose a foot; it is highest in November, and lowest in December. But -it<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_096" id="page_096"></a>{96}</span><a name="page_097" id="page_097"></a><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_095" id="page_095"></a>{95}</span> is a stream that constantly fluctuates, and pours an immense -volume of water into the Congo. In length of course it is about 700 -miles, rising to the south of that group of hills known as the -Travellers’ Group, and called Mounts Speke, Schweinfurth, and Junker. -Its basin covers an area of 67,000 square miles.</p> - -<p>On the north side of the basin we have heard of the Ababua, Mabodé, -Momvu, and the Balessé, to the south are the Bakumu and Baburu. These -are the principal tribes, which are subdivided into hundreds of smaller -tribes. The language of the Bakumu which is to be found inland east of -Stanley Falls, is known as far as Panga Falls, with slight dialectic -variations among the Baburu. The language of Momvu is spoken between -Panga Falls and the Ngaiyu. East of that we found that the language of -the Balessé took us as far as Indenduru, beyond that was a separate and -distinct language spoken by the Babusessé. But we found sub-tribes in -each section who professed not to understand what was said to them from -natives two camps removed from them.</p> - -<p>All the tribes from the Atlantic Ocean to East Longitude 30° in the -Equatorial region have a distant resemblance of features and customs, -but I should place East Longitude 18° as the divisional line of -longitude between two families of one original parent race. Across -twelve degrees of longitude, we have hundreds of tribes bearing a most -close resemblance to one another. What Schweinfurth and Junker, Emin and -Casati, have said about the Monbuttu, Niam Niam, and Momvu, may with a -few fine shades of difference, be said about the Bangala, the Wyyanzi, -the Batomba, the Basoko, the Baburu, the Bakumu, and Balessé. One tribe -more compact in organisation may possess a few superior characteristics -to one which has suffered misfortunes, and been oppressed by more -powerful neighbours, but in the main I see no difference whatever. They -own no cattle, but possess sheep, goats, and domestic fowls. One tribe -may be more partial to manioc, but they all cultivate the plantain and -banana.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_098" id="page_098"></a>{98}</span> Their dresses all alike are of bark cloth, their headdresses -are nearly similar, though one tribe may be more elaborate in the mode -of dressing theirs than another. Some of them practise circumcision, and -they are addicted to eating the flesh of their enemies. Their weapons -are nearly the same—the broad razor-sharp spear, the double-edged and -pointed knife, the curious two-or four-bladed knives, their curved -swords; their small bows and short arrows; their stools, benches, and -back-rests; their ear-rings, bracelets, armlets and leglets; their great -war-drums and little tom-toms, their war-horns; their blacksmiths’ and -carpenters’ tools.</p> - -<p>In the architecture of their houses there is a great difference; in the -tattooing, facial marks, and their upper lip ornaments they also differ; -but these are often due to the desire to distinguish tribes, though they -do not show a difference of race. If one could travel in a steamer from -Equatorville on the Congo to Indesura on the Upper Ituri, and see the -various communities on the river banks from the deck, the passengers -would be struck, not only by the similarity of dress and equipments, but -also of complexion; whereas were a colony of Soudanese, Zanzibaris, -Wanyamwezi to be seen accidentally among those communities, the stranger -might easily distinguish them as being foreign to the soil.</p> - -<p>This region, which embraces twelve degrees of longitude, is mainly -forest, though to the west it has several reaches of grass-land, and -this fact modifies the complexion considerably. The inhabitants of the -true forest are much lighter in colour than those of the grass-land. -They are inclined normally to be coppery, while some are as light as -Arabs, and others are dark brown, but they are all purely negroid in -character. Probably this lightness of colour may be due to a long -residence through generations in the forest shades, though it is likely -to have been the result of an amalgamation of an originally black and -light coloured race. When we cross the limits of the forest and enter -the grass-land we at once remark, however, that the tribes are much -darker in colour.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_099" id="page_099"></a>{99}</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill-099_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/ill-099_sml.jpg" width="295" height="517" alt="SPEARS." -title="SPEARS." /></a><br /> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="" - class="caption"> - -<tr><td valign="bottom">SPEARS.</td> -<td> </td> - -<td>POT.<br /> -STOOL.<br /> -PLAY-TABLE.<br /> -STOOL.</td></tr> -</table> - -</div> - -<p>Among these forest tribes we have observed some singularly prepossessing -faces, and we have observed others uncommonly low and degraded. However -incorrigibly fierce in temper, detestable in their disposition, and -bestial in habits these wild tribes may be to-day, there is not one of -them which does not contain germs, and by whose means at some future -date civilisation may spread, and with it those manifold blessings -inseparable<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_100" id="page_100"></a>{100}</span> from it. I was much struck with the personal appearance and -replies of some captives of Engweddé, with whom, as they knew the -language of Momvu, I was able to converse. I asked them if they were in -the habit of fighting strangers always. Said they, “What do strangers -want from us? we have nothing. We have only plantains, palms, and fish.” -“But supposing strangers wished to buy plantains, palm oil, and fish -from you, would you sell them?” “We have never seen any strangers -before. Each tribe keeps to its own place until it comes to fight with -us for some reason.” “Do you always fight your neighbours?” “No; some of -our young men go into the woods to hunt game, and they are surprised by -our neighbours; then we go to them, and they come to fight us until one -party is tired, or one is beaten.” “Well, will you be friends with me if -I send you back to your village?” They looked incredulous, and when they -were actually escorted out of the camp with cowries in their hands, they -simply stood still and refused to go fearing some trap. It seemed -incredible to them that they should not be sacrificed. One returned to -my tent, and was greeted kindly as an old acquaintance, received a few -bananas, deliberately went to a fire and roasted them, weighing in his -mind, I suppose, meanwhile, what it all meant; after refreshing himself, -he lit his pipe, and walked away with an assumed composure. Three trips -past that settlement, and their confidence would have been gained for -ever.</p> - -<p>Scattered among the Balessé, between Ipoto and Mount Pisgah, and -inhabiting the land situated between the Ngaiyu and Ituri Rivers, a -region equal in area to about two-thirds of Scotland, are the Wambutti, -variously called Batwa, Akka, and Bazungu. These people are undersized -nomads, dwarfs, or pigmies, who live in the uncleared virgin forest, and -support themselves on game, which they are very expert in catching. They -vary in height from three feet to four feet six inches. A full-grown -adult male may weigh ninety pounds. They plant their village camps at a -distance of from two to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_101" id="page_101"></a>{101}</span> three miles around a tribe of agricultural -aborigines, the majority of whom are fine stalwart people. A large -clearing may have as many as eight, ten, or twelve separate communities -of these little people settled around them, numbering in the aggregate -from 2,000 to 2,500 souls. With their weapons, little bows and arrows, -the points of which are covered thickly with poison, and spears, they -kill elephants, buffalo, and antelope. They sink pits, and cunningly -cover them with light sticks and leaves, over which they sprinkle earth -to disguise from the unsuspecting animals the danger below them. They -build a shed-like structure, the roof being suspended with a vine, and -spread nuts or ripe plantains underneath, to tempt the chimpanzees, -baboons, and other simians within, and by a slight movement, the shed -falls, and the animals are captured. Along the tracks of civets, -mephitis, ichneumons, and rodents are bow traps fixed, which, in the -scurry of the little animals, are snapped and strangle them. Besides the -meat and hides to make shields, and furs, and ivory of the slaughtered -game, they catch birds to obtain their feathers; they collect honey from -the woods, and make poison, all of which they sell to the larger -aborigines for plantains, potatoes, tobacco, spears, knives, and arrows. -The forest would soon be denuded of game if the pigmies confined -themselves to the few square miles around a clearing; they are therefore -compelled to move, as soon as it becomes scarce, to other settlements.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill-101_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/ill-101_sml.jpg" width="301" height="113" alt="ARROWS OF THE DWARFS." -title="ARROWS OF THE DWARFS." /></a><br /> -<span class="caption">ARROWS OF THE DWARFS.</span> -</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill-102_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/ill-102_sml.jpg" width="351" height="543" alt="ELEPHANT TRAP." -title="ELEPHANT TRAP." /></a><br /> -<span class="caption">ELEPHANT TRAP.</span> -</p> - -<p>They perform other services to the agricultural and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_102" id="page_102"></a>{102}</span> larger class of -aborigines. They are perfect scouts, and contrive, by their better -knowledge of the intricacies of the forest, to obtain early intelligence -of the coming of strangers, and to send information to their settled -friends. They are thus like voluntary picquets guarding the clearings -and settlements. Every road from any direction runs through their camps. -Their villages command every cross-way. Against any strange natives, -disposed to be aggressive, they would combine with their taller -neighbours, and they are<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_103" id="page_103"></a>{103}</span> by no means despicable allies. When arrows are -arrayed against arrows, poison against poison, and craft against craft, -probably the party assisted by the pigmies would prevail. Their -diminutive size, superior wood-craft, their greater malice, would make -formidable opponents. This the agricultural natives thoroughly -understand. They would no doubt wish on many occasions that the little -people would betake themselves elsewhere, for the settlements are -frequently outnumbered by the nomad communities. For small and often -inadequate returns of fur and meat, they must allow the pigmies free -access to their plantains, groves, and gardens. In a word, no nation on -the earth is free from human parasites, and the tribes of the Central -African forest have much to bear from these little fierce people who -glue themselves to their clearings, flatter them when well fed, but -oppress them with their extortions and robberies.</p> - -<p>The pigmies arrange their dwellings—low structures of the shape of an -oval figure cut lengthways; the doors are from two feet to three feet -high, placed at the ends—in a rough circle, the centre of which is left -cleared for the residence of the chief and his family, and as a common. -About 100 yards in advance of the camp, along every track leading out of -it, is placed the sentry-house, just large enough for two little men, -with the doorway looking up the track. If we assumed that native -caravans ever travelled between Ipoto and Ibwiri, for instance, we -should imagine, from our knowledge of these forest people, that the -caravan would be mulcted of much of its property by these nomads, whom -they would meet in front and rear of each settlement, and as there are -ten settlements between the two points, they would have to pay toll -twenty times, in tobacco, salt, iron, and rattan, cane ornaments, axes, -knives, spears, arrows, adzes, rings, &c. We therefore see how utterly -impossible it would be for the Ipoto people to have even heard of -Ibwiri, owing to the heavy turnpike tolls and octroi duties that would -be demanded of them if they ventured to undertake a long journey of -eighty miles. It will<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_104" id="page_104"></a>{104}</span> also be seen why there is such a diversity of -dialects, why captives were utterly ignorant of settlements only twenty -miles away from them.</p> - -<p>As I have said, there are two species of these pigmies, utterly -dissimilar in complexion, conformation of the head, and facial -characteristics. Whether Batwa forms one nation and Wambutti another we -do not know, but they differ as much from each other as a Turk would -from a Scandinavian. The Batwa have longish heads and long narrow faces, -reddish, small eyes, set close together, which give them a somewhat -ferrety look, sour, anxious, and querulous. The Wambutti have round -faces, gazelle-like eyes, set far apart, open foreheads, which give one -an impression of undisguised frankness, and are of a rich yellow, ivory -complexion. The Wambutti occupy the southern half of the district -described, the Batwa the northern, and extend south-easterly to the -Awamba forests on both banks of the Semliki River, and east of the -Ituri.</p> - -<p>The life in their forest villages partakes of the character of the -agricultural classes. The women perform all the work of collecting fuel -and provisions, and cooking, and the transport of the goods of the -community. The men hunt, and fight, and smoke, and conduct the tribal -politics. There is always some game in the camp, besides furs and -feathers and hides. They have nets for fish and traps for small game to -make. The youngsters must always be practising with the bow and arrow, -for we have never come across one of their villages without finding -several miniature bows and blunt-headed arrows. There must be free use -of axes also, for the trees about bear many a mark which could only have -been done to try their edge. In every camp we have seen deep incisions -in a tree several inches deep, and perhaps 500 yards from the camp a -series of diamond cuttings in a root of a tree across the track, which, -when seen, informed us that we were approaching a village of the -Wambutti pigmies.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill-104_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/ill-104_sml.jpg" width="546" height="378" alt="A DWARF VILLAGE." -title="A DWARF VILLAGE." /></a><br /> -<span class="caption">A DWARF VILLAGE.</span> -</p> - -<p>Two Egyptians, a corporal and a Cairo boy of fifteen, both light -complexioned, were captured near Fort Bodo<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_106" id="page_106"></a>{106}</span><a name="page_107" id="page_107"></a><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_105" id="page_105"></a>{105}</span> during my absence, and no -one discovered what became of them. It is supposed they were made -prisoners, like young Nassamonians of old. I have often wondered what -was done to them, and what the feelings of both were—they were devout -Mussulmans—after they were taken to the Wambutti’s camp. I fancy they -must have been something similar to those of Robert Baker, a sailor, in -1562—</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">“If cannibals they be<br /></span> -<span class="i2">In kind, we do not know,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">But if they be, then welcome we,<br /></span> -<span class="i2">To pot straightway we goe.<br /></span> -<span class="i1">They naked goe likewise,<br /></span> -<span class="i2">For shame, we cannot so;<br /></span> -<span class="i1">We cannot live after their guise,<br /></span> -<span class="i2">Thus naked for to go.<br /></span> -<span class="i1">By roots and leaves they live,<br /></span> -<span class="i2">As beasts do in the wood:<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Among these heathen who can thrive,<br /></span> -<span class="i2">On this so wilde a food?”<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>One of the poisons employed by the tribes of the forest to smear their -weapons, in order to make them more deadly, is a dark substance of the -colour and consistency of pitch. It is supposed—if native women may be -trusted—to be made out of a species of arum, a very common plant, with -large leaves, found in any quantity between Fort Bodo and Indesura. Its -smell, when fresh, reminds one of the old blister plaster. That it is -deadly there can be no doubt. They kill the elephants and other big game -with it, as certainly as these animals could be slain with bone-crushing -rifles. That they do kill elephants is proved by the vast stores of -ivory collected by Ugarrowwa, Kilonga-Longa, and Tippu-Tib, and each -adult warrior has a waist-belt, or a shoulder-belt, to suspend his -dagger and skinning-knife, and every mother who carries her child and -every wife who carries a basket has need of broad forehead-straps, made -out of buffalo hide, to bear her load on her back.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1888.<br />Dec.<br />Forest.</div> - -<p>The poison is not permitted to be manufactured in a village. It seems to -be a necessity, to prevent fatal accidents, that the poison should be -prepared in the bush. It is then laid on the iron arrows thickly, and -into the splints of the hard wooden arrows.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_108" id="page_108"></a>{108}</span></p> - -<p>Another poison is of a pale gluey colour. At Avisibba we discovered -several baskets of dried red ants among the rafters, and I conjectured, -from their resemblance in colour to the deadly poison which the -Avisibbas used, that it must have been made by crushing them into a fine -powder, and mixing it with palm oil. If one of these insects can raise a -blister on the skin of the size of a groat, what may not the powder of -mummied insects of the same species effect? If this pale poison be of -this material, one must confess that, in the forest, they possess -endless supplies of other insects still worse, such as the long black -ants which infest the trumpet tree, a bite from one of which can only be -compared to cautery from a red hot iron. But whatever it be, we have -great faith in a strong hypodermic injection of carbonate of ammonium, -and it may be that stronger doses of morphia than any that I ventured -upon might succeed in conquering the fatal tetanic spasms which followed -every puncture and preceded death.</p> - -<p>When one of these poisons is fresh its consequences are rapid. There is -excessive faintness, palpitation of the heart, nausea, pallor, and beads -of perspiration break out over the body, and death ensues. One man died -within one minute from a mere pin-hole, which pierced the right arm and -right breast. A headman died within an hour and a quarter after being -shot. A woman died during the time that she was carried a distance of -one hundred paces; another woman died within twenty minutes; one man -died within three hours; two others died after one hundred hours had -elapsed. These various periods indicate that some poisons were fresh and -others had become dry. Most of these wounds were sucked and washed and -syringed, but evidently some of the poison was left, and caused death.</p> - -<p>To render the poison ineffective, a strong emetic should be given, -sucking and syringing should be resorted to, and a heavy solution of -carbonate of ammonium should be injected into the wound, assuming that -the native antidote was unknown.</p> - -<p>As there is no grass throughout the forest region, the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_109" id="page_109"></a>{109}</span> natives would be -put to hard shifts to cover their houses were it not for the invaluable -phrynia leaves, which grow everywhere, but most abundantly in the -primeval woods. These leaves are from a foot to twenty inches in -diameter, are attached to slender straight stalks from three to seven -feet high. Both stalks and leaves are useful in the construction of -native huts and camps. The fruit is like red cherries, but the rinds are -not eaten, though the kernels are often eaten to “deceive the stomach.”</p> - -<p>The wild fruits of the forest are various, and having been sustained -through so many days of awful famine, it would be well to describe such -as we found useful. We owe most to a fine stately tree with small -leaves, which grows in large numbers along the south banks of the Ituri -between East Long. 28° and 29°. Its fruit lies in pods about ten inches -long, and which contain four heart-shaped beans called “makwemé,” an -inch and a quarter long by an inch broad and half an inch thick. It has -a tough dove-coloured skin which when cut shows a reddish inner skin. -When this latter is scraped away the bean may be bruised, mashed, or -boiled whole. It is better bruised, because, as the bean is rather -leathery, it has a better chance of being cooked to be digestible. The -pigmies taught us the art, and it may be well conceived that they have -had often need of it to support life during their forest wanderings.</p> - -<p>In the neighbourhood of these wood-bean trees grew a bastard bread-fruit -called <i>fenessi</i> by the Zanzibaris, the fruit of which is as large as a -water-melon. When ripe we found it delightful and wholesome.</p> - -<p>On a higher level, as we followed the Ituri up from 1° 6′ to Lat. 1° -47′, we found the <i>spondia</i> or hog-plums, a yellow, fragrant fruit with -a large stone. An india-rubber vine produced a pear-shaped fruit which, -though of delicious odour, was the cause of much nausea; a fruit also of -the size of a crab-apple, with an insipid sweetness about it, assisted -to maintain life. Then there were some nuts like horse-chestnuts which -we found the pigmies partial to, but we cannot speak very<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_110" id="page_110"></a>{110}</span> highly of -them. Besides the cherry-like berries of the phrynia, the kernels of -which were industriously sought after, were the rich red fruit of the -amoma, within whose husks is found an acid sweet pulp, and the grains of -paradise which were first introduced to England in the year 1815. The -berries of the calamus, or rattan, were also eaten, but they were -difficult to get. Figs also were tried, but they were not very tempting, -though anything to disguise hunger and to “deceive the stomach” found -favour. Even the cola nuts were eaten, but more for the sake of -expectoration than for the sake of pandering to the digestive organs.</p> - -<p>Among other articles to which we were reduced were white ants, -slugs—not the tiger-slug—snails, crabs, tortoises, roast field-rats, -and the siluroids of the streams.</p> - -<p>The domestic animals of the natives were principally confined to a fine -breed of goats, dogs—of the usual pariah order, but vari-coloured. We -saw only one domestic cat, and that was a brindled animal, and very -tame, but kept in a cage.</p> - -<p>It struck me as curious that while nearly all the Madis were attacked -with guinea worms, which rendered them utterly unfit for work, not one -Zanzibari suffered from them. The Madis’ medicine for these was simply -oil or fat rubbed over the inflammation, which served to cause the worm -to withdraw from the leg. At one time, however, we had fifteen cases of -mumps among the Zanzibaris, but they used no medicine except rubbing the -swollen face with flour and water. Numbers of Manyuema, natives, and -Madis, unvaccinated and uninoculated, fell victims to variola; but only -four Zanzibaris were attacked with the disease, only one of which was -fatal, and two of them were not so much indisposed as to plead being -relieved from duties.</p> - -<p>Respecting the productions of the forest I have written at such length -in “The Congo and the Founding of its Free State” that it is unnecessary -to add any more here. I will only say that when the Congo Railway has -been constructed, the products of the great<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_111" id="page_111"></a>{111}</span> forest will not be the -least valuable of the exports of the Congo Independent State. The -natives, beginning at Yambuya, will easily be induced to collect the -rubber, and when one sensible European has succeeded in teaching them -what the countless vines, creepers, and tendrils of their forest can -produce, it will not be long before other competitors will invade the -silent river, and invoke the aid of other tribes to follow the example -of the Baburu.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_112" id="page_112"></a>{112}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXIV" id="CHAPTER_XXIV"></a>CHAPTER XXIV.<br /><br /> -<small>IMPRISONMENT OF EMIN PASHA AND MR. JEPHSON.</small></h2> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hangg">Our reception at Fort Bodo—Lieut. Stairs’ report of what took place at -the Fort during our relief of the rear column—No news of -Jephson—Muster of our men—We burn the Fort and advance to find Emin -and Jephson—Camp at Kandekoré—Parting words to Lieut. Stairs and -Surgeon Parke, who are left in charge of the sick—Mazamboni gives us -news of Emin and Jephson—Old Gavira escorts us—Two Wahuma messengers -bring letters from Emin and Jephson—Their contents—My replies to the -same handed to Chief Mogo for delivery—The Balegga attack us, but, with -the help of the Bavira, are repulsed—Mr. Jephson turns up—We talk of -Emin—Jephson’s report bearing upon the revolt of the troops of -Equatoria, also his views respecting the invasion of the province by the -Mahdists, and its results—Emin Pasha sends through Mr. Jephson an -answer to my last letter.</p></div> - -<div class="sidenote">1888.<br />Dec. 20.<br />Fort Bodo.</div> - -<p>Those who have read the pitiful tale of the rear column will no doubt be -curious to know how we re-entered Fort Bodo, which was only garrisoned -with fifty-nine rifles, after six months’ absence. With my heart filled -with joy and gratitude I was escorted up the western avenue, glad men -leaping around me like spaniels, the Doctor imparting the most cheery -news; prosperous fields of corn on either hand, and goodly crops -everywhere; fenced squares, a neat village, clean streets, and every one -I met—white and black—in perfect health, except a few incurables. -Nelson was quite recovered, the dark shadow of the starvation camp was -entirely gone, and the former martial tread and manly bearing had been -regained; and Stairs, the officer <i>par excellence</i>, was precisely what -he ought to have been—the one who always obeyed and meant to obey.</p> - -<p>Lieutenant Stairs possessed 24,000 ears of corn in his<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_113" id="page_113"></a>{113}</span> granary, the -plantation was still bearing plantains and sweet potatoes and beans, -there was a good crop of tobacco; the stream in the neighbourhood -supplied fish—siluroids—and between officers and men there existed the -very best of feeling. He had not been free from trouble; troops of -elephants had invaded the fort, native plunderers by night had robbed -him of stores of tobacco, a mild benevolence had brought on the -plantation a host of pygmies, but at once alertness and firmness had -made him respected and feared by pigmies, aborigines, and Zanzibaris, -and in every wise suggestion his comrades had concurred and aided him. -The admirable and welcome letter herewith given speaks for itself—</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="r"> -Fort Bodo, Ibwiri, Central Africa,<br /> -<i>21st December, 1888</i>.<br /> -</p> - -<p class="nind"> -<span class="smcap">H. M. Stanley, Esq.</span>,<br /> -Command of Emin Pasha Relief Expedition.<br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Sir</span>,</p> - -<p>I have the honour to report that, in accordance with your letter of -instructions, dated Fort Bodo, June 13th, 1888, I took over the -charge of Fort Bodo and its garrison.</p> - -<p>The strength of the garrison was then as follows:—Officers, 3; -Zanzibaris, 51; Soudanese, 5; Madis, 5; total, 64.</p> - -<p>Soon after your departure from Yambuya, the natives in the -immediate vicinity became excessively bold and aggressive; gangs of -them would come into the plantations nearly every day searching for -plantains, and at last a party of them came into the gardens east -of the Fort at night-time and made off with a quantity of tobacco -and beans. On the night of the 21st August they again attempted to -steal more tobacco; this time, however, the sentries were on the -alert. The lesson they received had the effect of making the -natives less bold, but still our bananas were being taken at a -great rate. I now found it necessary to send out three parties of -patrols per week; these had as much as they could do to keep out -the natives and elephants. If fires were not made every few days -the elephants came into the bananas, and would destroy in a single -night some acres of plantation.</p> - -<p>By November 1st we had got the natives well in hand, and at this -time I do not believe a single native camp exists within eight -miles of the Fort. Those natives to the S.S.E. of the Fort gave us -the most trouble, and were the last to move away from our -plantations.</p> - -<p>At the end of July we all expected the arrival of Mr. Mounteney -Jephson from the Albert Nyanza to relieve the garrison, and convey -our goods on to the Lake shore. Day after day, however, passed -away, and no sign of him or news from him reaching us made many of -the men more and more restless as each day passed. Though most of -the men wished to remain at the Fort till relief turned up, either -in the shape of Mr. Jephson or yourself, still some eight or ten -discontented ones, desirous of reaching the Lake and partaking of -the plenty there, were quite ready at any time to desert the loads, -the white men, and sick.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_114" id="page_114"></a>{114}</span></p> - -<p>Seeing how things stood I treated the men at all times with the -greatest leniency, and did whatever I could to make their life at -the Fort as easy for them as was possible.</p> - -<p>Shortly after the time of Mr. Jephson’s expected arrival, some of -the men came to me and asked for a “shauri;” this I granted. At -this shauri the following propositions were made by one of the men -(Ali Juma), and assented to by almost every one of the Zanzibaris -present.</p> - -<p>I. To leave the Fort, march on to the Lake by way of Mazamboni’s -country, making double trips, and so get on all the loads to the -Lake and have plenty of food.</p> - -<p>II. Or, to send say fifteen couriers with a letter to the edge of -the plain, there to learn if the Bandusuma were still our friends -or no; if unfriendly, then to return to the Fort; if friendly, then -the couriers would take on the letter to Mr. Jephson, and relief -would come.</p> - -<p>To the first proposal I replied:—</p> - -<p>(1.) Mr. Stanley told me not to move across the plain, whatever -else I did, without outside aid.</p> - -<p>(2.) Did not Mr. Stanley tell Emin Pasha it was not safe to cross -the plains, even should the natives be friendly, without sixty -guns?</p> - -<p>(3.) We had only thirty strong men, the rest were sick; we should -lose our loads and sick men.</p> - -<p>We all lived on the best of terms after I had told them we could -not desert the Fort. We went on hoeing up the ground and planting -corn and other crops, as if we expected a prolonged occupation. On -the 1st September a severe hurricane accompanied by hail passed -over the Fort, destroying fully 60 per cent. of the standing corn, -and wrecking the banana plantations to such an extent that at least -a month passed before the trees commenced to send up young shoots. -Had it not been for this we should have had great quantities of -corn; but as it was I was only able to give each man ten corns per -week. The weakly ones, recommended by Dr. Parke, got one cup of -shelled corn each per day. At one time we had over thirty men -suffering from ulcers, but, through the exertion of Dr. Parke, all -their ulcers on your arrival had healed up with the exception of -some four.</p> - -<p>Eight deaths occurred from the time of your departure up to the -20th December, two were killed by arrows, and two were captured by -natives.</p> - -<p>In all matters where deliberation was necessary the other officers -and myself took part. We were unanimous in our determination to -await your arrival, knowing that you were using every endeavour to -bring relief to us as speedily as possible.</p> - -<p>On the 20th December I handed over the charge of the Fort to you, -and on the 21st the goods entrusted to my care.</p> - -<p class="r"> -I have the honour to be, Sir,<br /> -Your obedient servant,<br /> -(Signed) <span class="smcap">W. G. Stairs</span>, Lieut. R.E.<br /> -</p> -</div> - -<div class="sidenote">1888.<br />Dec. 21.<br />Fort Bodo.</div> - -<p>We were now left to conjecture what had become of the energetic Jephson, -the man of action, who had been nick-named <i>Buburika</i>, or the Cheetah, -because he was so quick and eager, and strained at the leash. No small -matter would have detained him, even if the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_115" id="page_115"></a>{115}</span> Pasha after all thought -that a long journey to Fort Bodo was unnecessary.</p> - -<p>But the fact that neither had been heard of placed us in a dilemma. We -had fifty-five extra loads to carry, over and above the number of -carriers, of absolutely necessary property. After a little midnight -mental deliberation I resolved to make double marches between Fort Bodo -and the Ituri River on the edge of the plains, leave Lieutenant Stairs -and officers and sick at the well-furnished clearing of Kandekoré, and -march to the Nyanza to search for Emin Pasha and Mr. Mounteney Jephson. -This would probably cause me to exceed my original estimate of time by -ten days. But what can one do when every plan is thwarted by some -unlucky accident or another? Fort Bodo had been reached two days before -the stipulated time. If I arrived at the Nyanza by January 26 I should -be ten days behind time.</p> - -<p>On the 21st of December all this was explained to the men, and that -fifty-five men must volunteer to do double duty, but for every camp made -by them twice over I should pay for the extra work in cloth. Volunteers -responded readily at this, and the difficulty of carrying the extra -fifty-five loads of ammunition vanished.</p> - -<p>At the muster on the 22nd of December there were present in the -Fort—209 Zanzibaris, 17 Soudanese, 1 Somali, 151 Manyuema and -followers, 26 Madis, 2 Lados, 6 whites; total 412. Therefore the journey -from Banalya to Fort Bodo had cost 106 lives, of whom 38 belonged to the -rear column.</p> - -<p>On the 23rd we set out from Fort Bodo, and on the next day Captain -Nelson, having buried the Pasha’s big demijohn, some broken rifles, &c., -set fire to the Fort and joined us.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />Jan. 2.<br />Indenduru.</div> - -<p>Christmas Day and the day after we foraged for the double journeys, and -on the 27th Stairs was pushed forward with one hundred rifles to occupy -the ferry at the Ituri River, with orders, after making himself snug, to -send back fifty-five men to our Cross Roads camp.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_116" id="page_116"></a>{116}</span> Meantime, being very -dilapidated in clothing, the Doctor and I tailored to make ourselves -respectable for the grass-land.</p> - -<p>On the 2nd of January, while waiting for the contingent from Stairs, a -Soudanese, gathering fuel only 150 yards from camp, received five arrows -in his back, which were extracted after tremendous exertion by the -Doctor—two of the arrows being so deeply fixed in bone and muscle that -the wounded man was almost raised from the ground. A sixth arrow was -found two months later. The man ultimately recovered, to die close to -Bagamoyo nearly a year later.</p> - -<p>On the next day the fifty-five men returned from Stairs with a note -reporting all was well at Ituri, and that he was hopeful of a pacific -conclusion to the negotiations with the natives of Kandokoré, and on the -4th of the month at noon we moved from Cross Roads Camp. Six hours’ -march on the 5th brought us to West Indenduru. The 6th we reached -Central Indenduru, and on the 7th we were in the Bakwuru village at the -foot of Pisgah, in view of the grass-land, at which the men of the rear -column and the Manyuema were never tired of gazing and wondering. On the -9th we crossed the Ituri River and established a camp in the village of -Kandekoré on the east side.</p> - -<p>The next day all hands were set to work to make a camp, to clear the -bush around, for natives are accustomed to let it grow right up to the -eaves of their huts to enable them to retreat unperceived in case of -danger.</p> - -<p>In the evening after dinner Lieutenant Stairs and Surgeon Parke were -called to my tent, and I addressed them as to their duties during my -absence. Said I—</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>“Gentlemen, I have called you to give you a few parting words.</p> - -<p>“You know as well as I do that there is a constant unseen influence -at work creating an anxiety which has sometimes tempted us to -despair. No plan, however clear and intelligible it may be, but is -thwarted and reversed. No promises are fulfilled, instructions are -disregarded, suggestions are unavailing, and so we are constantly -labouring to correct and make amends for this general waywardness -which pursues us. We are no sooner out of one difficulty than we -are face to face with another, and we are subjected to everlasting -stress and strains of appalling physical miseries, and absolute -decimation. It is as clear to you as to me why<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_117" id="page_117"></a>{117}</span> these things are -so. They will go on and continue so, unless I can gather the -fragments of this Expedition together once and for all, and keep it -together, never to be separated again. But each time I have wished -to do so, the inability of the men to march, the necessity of -hurrying to one place and then to another, keep us eternally -detached. After bringing the rear column, and uniting it with the -advance, and collecting your garrison at Fort Bodo, we are -astonished at this total absence of news from Jephson and the -Pasha. Now I cannot manœuvre with a hospital in tow, such as we -have with us. At the muster of to-day, after inspection, there were -124 men suffering from ulcers, debility, weakness, dysentery, and -much else. They cannot march, they cannot carry. Jephson and the -Pasha are perhaps waiting for me. It is now January 10th, I -promised to be on the Nyanza again, even if I went as far as -Yambuya, by the 16th, I have six days before me. You see how I am -pulled this way and that way. If I could trust you to obey me, obey -every word literally, that you would not swerve one iota from the -path laid down, I could depart from you with confidence, and find -out what is the matter with Jephson and the Pasha.”</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />Jan. 10.<br />Kandekoré.</div> - -<p>“I don’t see why you should doubt us. I am sure we have always -tried to do our very best to please and satisfy you,” replied -Stairs.</p> - -<p>“That is strictly true, and I am most grateful to you for it. The -case of Yambuya seems to be repeated. Our friend Jephson is absent, -perhaps dead from fever or from some accident; but why do we not -hear from the Pasha? Therefore we surmise that some other trouble -has overtaken both. Well, I set out for the Nyanza, and either send -or cause to hear the news, or cut my way through Melindwa to behind -Mswa Station to discover the cause of this strange silence. Have -the Mahdists come up river, and annihilated everybody, or has -another Expedition reached them from the East, and they are all too -busy attending to them to think of their promise to us? Which is -it? No one can answer, but because of this mystery we cannot sit -down to let the mystery unfold itself, and I can do nothing towards -penetrating it with 124 men, who require a long rest to recover -from their fatigues and sicknesses. Therefore I am compelled to -trust to you and the doctor, that you will stay here until I know -what has happened, whether for one month or two months. I want you -to stay here and look after the camp alertly, and I want the doctor -to attend to these sick men and cure them, not to stint medicines, -but nurse them with good food from morning until night. Do you -promise this faithfully, on your words as gentlemen?”</p> - -<p>“We do,” replied both warmly.</p> - -<p>“Now Doctor, I particularly address myself to you. Stairs will -perform all that is required as Superintendent and Governor of the -camp, but I look to you mostly. These 124 men are on the sick list, -some are but slightly indisposed, and some are in a dreadful state. -But they all require attention, and you must give it devotedly. You -must see that your worst cases are fed regularly. Three times a day -see that their food is prepared, and that it is given to them; -trust no man’s word, see to it yourself in person; we want these -men to reach home. I warn you solemnly that your ‘flood-tide of -opportunity’ has come. Are you ambitious of distinction? Here is -your chance; seize it. Your task is clear before you, and you are -required to save these men, who will be the means of taking you -home, and of your receiving the esteem of all who shall hear of -your deeds.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />Jan. 10.<br />Kandekoré.</div> - -<p>“Gentlemen, the causes of failure in this world are that men are -unable to see the thing that lies ready at their hands. They look -over their work and forget their tasks, in attempting to do what is -not wanted.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_118" id="page_118"></a>{118}</span> Before I left England I received some hundreds of -applications from volunteers to serve with me on this Expedition. -They at least believed that they could win what men vulgarly call -‘kudos,’ though I do not believe that one in a thousand of them -knew what is the true way to glory. For instance, there are only -six whites here in this camp, yet one of the six sought me the -other night to request permission to explore the Welle-Mubangi -River—of all places in Africa! His duty was clearly before him, -and yet he did not see it. His opportunities were unheeded. He cast -yearning looks over and above what was right at his feet. He seemed -as if wakened out of a dream when I told him that to escort -refugees to their homes was a far nobler task than any number of -discoveries. On this Expedition there was a man who received a -salary for being loyal and devoted to me, yet when there were -opportunities for distinguishing himself, he allowed his employer’s -baggage to be sent away before his very eyes, and his own rations -to be boxed up, and sent out of camp, and he never knew until told -that he had lost his opportunities to gain credit, increase of -salary, and promotion. I point out your opportunities, therefore -hold fast to them with a firm grip; do all you can with might and -main to make the most of them. Don’t think of ‘kudos,’ or ‘glory,’ -but of your work. All your capital is in that; it will give you -great or little profit, as you perform it. Good-night. To-morrow I -go to do something, I know not what, and do not care until I hear -what it is I have to do. As I will do mine, do yours.”</p></div> - -<p>The next morning, after encouraging remarks to the invalids, we set out -from Kandekoré in the territory of the Bakuba, and in forty-five minutes -we had emerged out of the bush, to the immense delight and wonder of -such of the rear column and Manyuema as had not seen the glorious land -before.</p> - -<p>On the 12th we reached Bessé, and were well received by our native -friends. They informed us that the Pasha was building big houses at -Nyamsassi, and the rumour was that he and many followers intended to -pass through the land. As we had been very anxious, this piece of good -news was hailed with great satisfaction.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />Jan. 14.<br />Undussuma.</div> - -<p>We camped the day following in a vale a little north of Mukangi, and on -the 14th we reached our old camp in Mazamboni’s country. It was not long -before Mazamboni, and Katto his brother, and his inseparable cousin -Kalengé, appeared, and in reply to our eager questioning, informed us -that Jephson had reached Kavalli’s the day before yesterday (12th); that -Hailallah, a boy deserter, was in charge of Kavalli, and had grown as -tall as a spear. We were also told that <i>Maleju</i> (the Pasha) had -despatched ten men to Kavalli’s to obtain<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_119" id="page_119"></a>{119}</span> news of us, and that he had -caused some fields to be cultivated near the lake, and had planted corn -for our use. “What a good, thoughtful, kind man he must be!” we mentally -remarked.</p> - -<p>As Mazamboni presented us with two fat beeves, it was essential that the -Zanzibaris, and the Manyuema should be indulged a little after long -abstinence from flesh. We accordingly halted on the 15th, and during the -day Chief Gavira came in and imparted the intelligence that Jephson had -arrived at Katonza’s village three days before with seventeen soldiers; -and our people, who were now well supplied with cloth for extra labour, -and five doti each from Banalya, besides beads, cowries, and wire, were -able to invest in luxuries to their hearts’ content. The Manyuema smiled -blandly, and the Zanzibaris had contracted a habit, as they had scented -the grass-lands, of crowing, which when once started was imitated by -nearly 300 people.</p> - -<p>Old Gavira escorted us the next day, on the 16th, the date I should have -been on the Nyanza, and by the afternoon we were in one of the old -villages which was once burned by us, and which was again clean and new -and prosperous, and we welcome and honoured guests, only one long day’s -march from the Lake.</p> - -<p>Now that we were actually out of the forest, and only one thing more to -do—since both the Pasha and Mr. Jephson were on the Lake shore just -below us, according to the native—viz., to deliver the ammunition into -the Pasha’s hands, and escort a few Egyptians home, Old Gavira had -reason to suppose that afternoon that “Bula Matari” was a very amiable -person.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />Jan. 16.<br />Gavira’s.</div> - -<p>But at 5 <small>P.M.</small> two Wahuma messengers came with letters from Kavalli’s, -and as I read them a creeping feeling came over me which was a complete -mental paralysis for the time, and deadened all the sensations except -that of unmitigated surprise. When I recovered myself the ears of -Jephson and the Pasha must certainly have tingled. I need not criminate -myself, however, and any person of any imagination may conceive what I -must have felt after he has read the following letters:—<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_120" id="page_120"></a>{120}</span></p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="c"> -<span class="smcap">Letter from Emin.</span><br /> -</p> - -<p class="r"> -Dufflé, <i>2nd September, 1888</i>.<br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Dear Sir</span>,</p> - -<p>Mr. Jephson having been obliged to accompany some officers who -start to see you, I profit of the occasion to tender you with my -best wishes, hearty congratulations for the safe arrival of your -Expedition, of which we have heard only by our boys, our letters -being rigorously withheld from us. Mr. Jephson, who has been of -good help to me, under very trying circumstances, will tell you -what has happened, and is likewise able to give you the benefit of -his experience, and to make some suggestions, should you decide to -come here as people wish. In the case of your coming, you will -greatly oblige me by taking measures for the safety of my little -girl, about whom I feel most anxious.</p> - -<p>Should, however, you decide not to come, that I can only wish you a -good and safe return to your country, and at the same time I may be -permitted to request you to tender my cordial thanks to your -officers and your people, and my heartfelt acknowledgment to those -kind hearted benefactors in England by whose generosity the -Expedition was started.</p> - -<p class="r"> -Believe me, Dear Sir, to be,<br /> -Yours very sincerely,<br /> -(Signed) <span class="smcap">Dr. Emin</span>.<br /> -</p></div> - -<hr /> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="c"> -<span class="smcap">2nd Letter from Emin.</span><br /> -</p> - -<p>Dufflé, 6, 11, 88.—Since the foregoing was written I have been -always a prisoner here. Twice we heard you had come in, but it was -not true. Now, the Mahdi’s people having come up, and Rejaf Station -having been taken, we may be attacked some day or other, and there -seems only a few hours of our escaping. However, we hope yet. -To-day I have heard the soldiers from Muggi started yesterday for -Rejaf, and if they are defeated, as without any doubt they will be, -the Khartoum people will be here very quickly.</p> - -<p>Mr. Jephson has acquainted me with the letter he wrote to you, and -I think there is nothing to be joined to it.<a name="FNanchor_2_2" id="FNanchor_2_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a></p> - -<p class="r"> -Yours very sincerely,<br /> -(Signed) <span class="smcap">Dr. Emin.</span><br /> -</p> -</div> - -<hr /> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="c"> -<span class="smcap">3rd Letter from Emin.</span><br /> -</p> - -<p class="r"> -Tunguru, <i>21st December, 1888</i>.<br /> -</p> - -<p class="nind"> -<span class="smcap">Dear Mr. Stanley</span>,<br /> -</p> - -<p>Mr. Jephson having told to you whatever has happened here after we -left Dufflé, I refrain from repeating the narrative.<a name="FNanchor_3_3" id="FNanchor_3_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a> Although -for a moment there happened a movement in my favour, the officers, -elated with their victory, soon were just as bad as they were in -the beginning of this comedy. Everyone is now fully decided to -leave the country for<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_121" id="page_121"></a>{121}</span> finding a shelter somewhere. Nobody thinks, -however, of going to Egypt, except, perhaps, a few officers and -men. I am, nevertheless, not without hope of better days; but I -join my entreaties with those of Mr. Jephson asking you to stay -where you are, viz., at Kavalli’s, and to send only word of your -arrival as quickly as you can.</p> - -<p>Chief Mogo, the bearer of this and Mr. Jephson’s letter, has my -orders to remain at Kavalli’s until you arrive. He is a good and -true fellow, and you will oblige me by looking after him.</p> - -<p>With the best wishes for you and all your people,</p> - -<p class="r"> -I am,<br /> -Yours very sincerely,<br /> -(Signed) <span class="smcap">Dr. Emin</span>.<br /> -</p> -</div> - -<hr /> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="c"> -<span class="smcap">Letters of Mr. Jephson.</span><br /> -</p> - -<p class="r"> -Dufflé, <i>7th November, 1888</i>.<br /> -</p> - -<p class="nind"> -<span class="smcap">Dear Sir</span>,<br /> -</p> - -<p>I am writing to tell you of the position of affairs in this -country, and I trust Shukri Aga will be able by some means to -deliver this letter to Kavalli in time to warn you to be careful.</p> - -<p>On August 18th a rebellion broke out here, and the Pasha and I were -made prisoners. The Pasha is a complete prisoner, but I am allowed -to go about the station, though my movements are watched. The -rebellion has been got up by some half dozen officers and clerks, -chiefly Egyptians, and gradually others have joined; some through -inclination, but most through fear; the soldiers, with the -exception of those at Laboré, have never taken part in it, but have -quietly given in to their officers. The two prime promoters of the -rebellion were two Egyptians, who we heard afterwards had gone and -complained to you at Nsabé. One was the Pasha’s adjutant, Abdul -Vaal Effendi, who was formerly concerned in Arabi’s rebellion; the -other was Achmet Effendi Mahmoud, a one-eyed clerk. These two and -some others, when the Pasha and I were on our way to Rejaf, went -about and told the people they had seen you, and that you were only -an adventurer, and had not come from Egypt; that the letters you -had brought from the Khedive and Nubar Pasha were forgeries; that -it was untrue that Khartoum had fallen, and that the Pasha and you -had made a plot to take them, their wives and children out of the -country, and hand them over to slaves to the English. Such words, -in an ignorant and fanatical country like this, acted like fire -amongst the people, and the result was a general rebellion, and we -were made prisoners.</p> - -<p>The rebels then collected officers from the different stations, and -held a large meeting here to determine what measures they should -take, and all those who did not join in the movement were so -insulted and abused, that they were obliged for their own safety to -acquiesce in what was done. The Pasha was deposed, and those -officers who were suspected of being friendly to him were removed -from their posts, and those friendly to the rebels were put in -their places. It was decided to take the Pasha away as a prisoner -to Rejaf, and some of the worst rebels were even for putting him in -irons, but the officers were afraid to put these plans into -execution, as the soldiers said they would never permit any one to -lay a hand on him. Plans were also made to entrap you when you -returned, and strip you of all you had.</p> - -<p>Things were in this condition when we were startled by the news -that<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_122" id="page_122"></a>{122}</span> the Mahdi’s people had arrived at Lado with three steamers -and nine sandals and nuggars, and had established themselves on the -site of the old station. Omar Sale, their general, sent down three -peacock dervishes with a letter to the Pasha demanding the instant -surrender of the country. The rebel officers seized them and put -them in prison, and decided on war. After a few days the Donagla -attacked and captured Rejaf, killing five officers and numbers of -soldiers, and taking many women and children prisoners, and all the -stores and ammunition in the station were lost. The result of this -was a general stampede of people from the stations of Bidden, -Kirri, and Muggi, who fled with their women and children to Laboré, -abandoning almost everything. At Kirri the ammunition was -abandoned, and was at once seized by the natives. The Pasha reckons -that the Donagla numbers about 1,500.</p> - -<p>The officers and a large number of soldiers have returned to Muggi, -and intend to make a stand against the Donagla. Our position here -is extremely unpleasant, for since this rebellion all is chaos and -confusion; there is no head, and half a dozen conflicting orders -are given every day, and no one obeys; the rebel officers are -wholly unable to control the soldiers. We are daily expecting some -catastrophe to happen, for the Baris have joined the Donagla, and -if they come down here with a rush nothing can save us. After the -fall of Rejaf, the soldiers cursed their officers and said, “If we -had obeyed our Governor, and had done what he told us, we should -now be safe; he has been a father and a mother to us all these -years; but instead of listening to him we listened to you, and now -we are lost.”</p> - -<p>The officers are all very much frightened at what has happened, and -we are now anxiously awaiting your arrival, and desire to leave the -country with you, for they are now really persuaded that Khartoum -has fallen, and that you have come from the Khedive. The greater -part of the officers and all the soldiers wish to reinstate the -Pasha in his place, but the Egyptians are afraid that if he is -reinstated vengeance will fall on their heads, so they have -persuaded the Soudanese officers not to do so. The soldiers refuse -to act with their officers, so everything is at a standstill, and -nothing is being done for the safety of the station, either in the -way of fortifying or provisioning it. We are like rats in a trap; -they will neither let us act nor retire, and I fear unless you come -very soon you will be too late, and our fate will be like that of -the rest of the garrisons of the Soudan. Had this rebellion not -happened, the Pasha could have kept the Donagla in check for some -time, but as it is he is powerless to act.</p> - -<p>I would make the following suggestions concerning your movements -when you arrive at Kavalli’s, which, of course, you will only adopt -if you think fit.</p> - -<p>On your arrival at Kavalli’s, if you have a sufficient force with -you, leave all unnecessary loads in charge of some officers and men -there, and you yourself come to Nsabé, bringing with you as many -men as you can; bring the Soudanese officers, but not the soldiers, -with you.</p> - -<p>Despatch natives in a canoe to Mswa with a letter in Arabic to -Shukri Aga, telling him of your arrival, and telling him you wish -to see the Pasha and myself, and write also to the Pasha or myself -telling us number of men you have with you; it would, perhaps, be -better to write to me, as a letter to him might be confiscated.</p> - -<p>On no account have anything to do with people who come to you -unaccompanied by either the Pasha or myself, whoever they are, or -however fair their words may be. Neither the Pasha nor I think -there is the slightest danger now of any attempt to capture you -being made, for the people are now fully persuaded you come from -Egypt, and they<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_123" id="page_123"></a>{123}</span> look to you to get them out of their difficulties; -still it would be well for you to make your camp strong.</p> - -<p>If we are not able to get out of the country, please remember me to -my friends. With kindest wishes to yourself and all with you,</p> - -<p class="r"> -I am,<br /> -Yours faithfully,<br /> -(Signed) <span class="smcap">A. J. Mounteney Jephson</span>.<br /> -<span class="smcap">To H. M. Stanley, Esq.</span>,<br /> -Commander of the Relief Expedition.<br /> -</p> -</div> - -<hr /> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />Jan. 16.<br />Nyanza.</div> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="r"> -Wadelai, <i>November 24th, 1888</i>.<br /> -</p> - -<p>My messenger having not yet left Wadelai, I add this postscript, as -the Pasha wishes me to send my former letter to you in its -entirety, as it gives a fair description of our position at the -time I wrote, when we hardly expected to be ever able to get out of -the country. Shortly after I had written to you, the soldiers were -led by their officers to attempt to retake Rejaf, but the Donagla -defeated them, and killed six officers and a large number of -soldiers; amongst the officers killed were some of the Pasha’s -worst enemies. The soldiers in all the stations were so -panic-stricken and angry at what had happened that they declared -they would not attempt to fight unless the Pasha was set at -liberty; so the rebel officers were obliged to free him and sent us -to Wadelai, where he is free to do as he pleases, but at present he -has not resumed his authority in the country; he is, I believe, by -no means anxious to do so. We hope in a few days to be at Tunguru, -a station on the Lake two days by steamer from Nsabé, and I trust -when we hear of your arrival that the Pasha himself will be able to -come down with me to see you.</p> - -<p>Shukri Aga tells us he has everything ready against your arrival, -in the shape of cattle, goats, chickens, corn, etc.; he has behaved -capitally throughout this rebellion, and is the only chief of -station who has been able to stand against the rebels.</p> - -<p>Our danger, as far as the Donagla are concerned, is, of course, -increased by this last defeat, but our position is in one way -better now, for we are further removed from them, and we have now -the option of retiring if we please, which we had not before when -we were prisoners. We hear that the Donagla have sent steamers down -to Khartoum for reinforcements; if so, they cannot be up for -another six weeks; meantime I hope that until the reinforcements -arrive they will not care to come so far from their base as Wadelai -or Tunguru. If they do, it will be all up with us, for the soldiers -will never stand against them, and it will be a mere walk over.</p> - -<p>These people are not the same sort that the soldiers fought three -years ago, but are regular fanatics, and come on with a rush, -cutting down men with their long sharp swords and broad spears. -Every one is anxiously looking for your arrival, the coming of the -Donagla has completely cowed them. Everything now rests on what the -Donagla decided on doing. If they follow up their victories and -come after us, we are lost, as I said before, for I do not think -the people will allow us to retire from the country; but if the -Donagla have sent down to Khartoum for reinforcements, and have -decided to wait for the arrival of their reinforcements, then we -may just manage to get out if you do not come later than the end of -December, but it is utterly impossible to foresee what will happen.</p> - -<p class="r"> -A. J. M. J.<br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_124" id="page_124"></a>{124}</span></p> -</div> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="r"> -Tunguru, <i>December 18th, 1888</i>.<br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Dear Sir</span>,—</p> - -<p>Mogo not having yet started I send a second postscript in order to -give you the latest news I can. We are now at Tunguru. On November -25th the Donagla surrounded Dufflé and besieged it for four days, -but the soldiers, of whom there were some 500 in the station, -managed at last to repulse them, and they retired to Rejaf, which -is their headquarters. They have sent down to Khartoum for -reinforcements, and doubtless will again attack and take the -country when they are strengthened. In our flight from Wadelai I -was asked by the officers to destroy our boat lest it should fall -into the hands of the Donagla; I therefore broke it up, as we were -unable to save it.</p> - -<p>Dufflé is being evacuated as fast as possible, and it is the -intention of the officers to collect at Wadelai, and to decide on -what steps they shall next take. The Pasha is unable to move hand -or foot, as there is still a very strong party against him, and the -officers are no longer in immediate fear of the Mahdi’s people.</p> - -<p>Do not on any account come down to Nsabé, but make your camp at -Kavalli’s; send a letter directly you arrive, and as soon as we -hear of your arrival I will come down to you. I will not disguise -the fact from you that you will have a difficult and dangerous task -before you in dealing with the Pasha’s people. I trust you will -arrive before the Donagla return, or our case will be desperate.</p> - -<p class="r"> -I am, yours faithfully,<br /> -(Signed) <span class="smcap">A. J. Mounteney Jephson</span>.<br /> -</p> -</div> - -<hr /> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="c"> -<span class="smcap">My Reply To Mr. Jephson.</span><br /> -<br /> -Camp at Gavira’s, one day from Nyanza, and one day’s march east<br /> -of Mazamboni’s.<br /> -</p> - -<p class="r"> -<i>January 17th, 1889.</i><br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">My dear Jephson</span>,—</p> - -<p>Your letter of November 7th, 1888, with two postscripts, one dated -November 24th, and the other dated December 18th, is to hand and -contents noted.</p> - -<p>I will not criticise your letter nor discuss any of its contents. I -wish to be brief, and promptly act; with that view I present you -with a <i>précis</i> of events connected with our journey.</p> - -<p>We separated from the Pasha on the 23rd of May last, with the -understanding that in about two months you, with or without the -Pasha, would start for Fort Bodo with sufficient porters to take -the goods at the Fort and convey them to the Nyanza, the Pasha -expressing himself anxious to see Mt. Pisgah and our Fort, and, if -words may be relied on, he was anxious to assist us in his own -relief. We somewhat doubted whether his affairs would permit the -Pasha’s absence, but we were assured you would not remain inactive.</p> - -<p>It was also understood that the Pasha would erect a small station -on Nyamsassi Island as a provision depot, in order that our -Expedition might find means of subsistence on arrival at the Lake.</p> - -<p>Eight months have elapsed, and not one single promise has been -performed.</p> - -<p>On the other hand, we, faithful to our promise, departed from the -Nyanza Plain May 25th, arrived at Fort Bodo June 8th—fifteen days -from the Nyanza. Conveying to Lieutenant Stairs and Captain Nelson -<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_125" id="page_125"></a>{125}</span>your comforting assurances that you would be there in two months, -and giving written permission to Stairs and Nelson to evacuate the -Fort and accompany you to the Nyanza with the garrison, which, with -the Pasha’s soldiers, would have made a strong depôt of Nyamsassi -Island, I set out from Fort Bodo on the 16th June to hunt up the -Major and his column.</p> - -<p>On the morning of the 17th August at 10 <small>A.M.</small>, we sighted the rear -column at Banalya, ninety miles (English) from Yambuya—592 miles -from the Nyanza on the sixty-third day from Fort Bodo, and the -eighty-fifth from the Nyanza shore.</p> - -<p>I sent my despatches to Stanley Falls and thence to Europe, and on -the 31st August commenced my return towards the Nyanza. Two days -before the date stated I was at Fort Bodo—December 20th. On the -24th December we moved from Fort Bodo towards the Ituri Ferry. But -as your non-arrival at Fort Bodo had left us with a larger number -of goods than our force could carry at one time, we had to make -double journeys to Fort Bodo and back to the Ituri Ferry, but by -the 10th January all that remained of the Expedition, with all its -effects, were on this side of the Ituri River, encamped half a mile -from the ferry, with abundance of food assured for months. On the -12th January I left Stairs; your absence from the Fort, and the -absolute silence respecting you all, made us suspect that serious -trouble had broken out. Yesterday your letter, as above stated, -came to hand, and its contents explained the trouble.</p> - -<p>The difficulties I met at Banalya, are repeated to-day, near the -Albert Lake, and nothing can save us now from being overwhelmed by -them but a calm and clear decision. If I had hesitated at Banalya -very likely I should still be there waiting for Jameson and Ward, -with my own men dying by dozens.</p> - -<p>Are the Pasha, Casati and yourself to share the same fate? If you -are still victims of indecision, then a long good-night to you all. -But, while I retain my senses, I must save my Expedition; you may -be saved also if you are wise.</p> - -<p>In the “High Order” of the Khedive, dated 1st February, 1887, No. -3, to Emin Pasha, a translation of which was handed to me, I find -the following words:—</p> - -<p>“And since it is our sincerest desire to relieve you with your -officers and soldiers from the difficult position you are in, our -Government have made up their minds about the manner by which -relief from these troubles may be obtained. A mission for the -relief has been found, and the command of it given to Mr. Stanley, -the famous, &c., &c., &c., and he intends to set out on it with all -the necessary provisions for you, so that he may bring you, with -your officers and men, to Cairo by the route he may think proper to -take. Consequently we have issued this ‘High Order’ to you, and it -is sent to you by the hand of Mr. Stanley, to let you know what was -being done. As soon as it reaches you convey my best wishes to the -officers and men, and you are at full liberty with regard to your -leaving for Cairo or your stay there with officers and men.</p> - -<p>“Our Government has given a decision for paying your salaries, with -that of the officers and men.</p> - -<p>“Those who wish to stay there of the officers and men may do so on -their own responsibility, and they may not expect any assistance -from the Government.</p> - -<p>“Try to understand the contents well, and make them well known to -all the officers and men, that they may be fully aware of what they -are going to do.”</p> - -<p>It is precisely what the Khedive says that I wish to say to you. -Try<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_126" id="page_126"></a>{126}</span> and understand all this thoroughly that you may be saved from -the effect of indecision, which will be fatal to you all if -unheeded.</p> - -<p>The first instalment of relief was handed to Emin Pasha on or about -the 1st of May, 1888. The second and final instalment of relief is -at this camp with us, ready for delivery at any place the Pasha -designates, or to any person charged by the Pasha to receive it. If -the Pasha fails to receive it, or to decide what shall be done with -it I must then decide briefly what I must do.</p> - -<p>Our second object in coming here was to receive such at our camp as -were disposed to leave Africa, and conduct them home by the nearest -and safest route. If there are none disposed to leave Africa our -Expedition has no further business in these regions, and will at -once retire. Try and understand what all this means. Try and see -the utter and final abandonment of all further relief, and the -bitter end and fate of those obstinate and misguided people who -decline assistance when tendered to them. From the 1st May, 1888, -to January 1889, are nine months—so long a time to consider a -simple proposition of leaving Africa or staying here!</p> - -<p>Therefore, in this official and formal letter accompanying this -explanatory note to you, I designate Kavalli’s village as the -rendezvous where I am willing to receive those who are desirous of -leaving Africa, subject, of course, to any new light thrown upon -the complication by a personal interview or a second letter from -you.</p> - -<p>And now I address myself to you personally. If you consider -yourself still a member of the Expedition subject to my orders, -then, upon receipt of this letter, you will at once leave for -Kavalli’s with such of my men—Binza and the Soudanese—as are -willing to obey you, and bring to me the final decision of Emin -Pasha and Signor Casati respecting their personal intentions. If I -am not at Kavalli’s then, stay there, and send word by letter by -means of Kavalli’s messengers to Mpinga, Chief of Gavira, who will -transmit the same to Mazamboni’s, when probably I shall receive it. -You will understand that it will be a severe strain on Kavalli’s -resources to maintain us with provisions longer than six days, and -if you are longer than this period we must retire to Mazamboni’s, -and finally to our camp on the Ituri Ferry. Otherwise we must seize -provisions by force, and any act of violence would cut off and -close native communication. This difficulty might have been avoided -had the Pasha followed my suggestion of making a depôt at -Nyamsassi. The fact that there are provisions at Mswa does not help -us at all. There are provisions in Europe also. But unfortunately -they are as inaccessible as those of Mswa. We have no boat now to -communicate by lake, and you do not mention what has become of the -steamers, the <i>Khedive</i> and <i>Nyanza</i>.</p> - -<p>I understand that the Pasha has been deposed and is a prisoner. -Who, then, is to communicate with me respecting what is to be done? -I have no authority to receive communications from the -officers—mutineers. It was Emin Pasha and his people I was -supposed to relieve. If Emin Pasha was dead, then to his lawful -successor in authority. Emin Pasha being alive prevents my -receiving a communication from any other person, unless he be -designated by the Pasha. Therefore the Pasha, if he be unable to -come in person to me at Kavalli’s with a sufficient escort of -faithful men, or be unable to appoint some person authorised to -receive this relief, it will remain for me to destroy the -ammunition so laboriously brought here, and return home.</p> - -<p>Finally, if the Pasha’s people are desirous of leaving this part of -Africa, and settle in some country not far remote from here, or -anywhere bordering the Nyanza (Victoria), or along the route to -Zanzibar, I am perfectly ready to assist, besides escorting those -willing to go home to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_127" id="page_127"></a>{127}</span></p> - -<p>Cairo safely; but I must have clear and definite assertions, -followed by prompt action, according to such orders as I shall give -for effecting this purpose, or a clear and definite refusal, as we -cannot stay here all our lives awaiting people who seem to be not -very clear as to what they wish.</p> - -<p>Give my best wishes to the Pasha and Signor Casati, and I hope and -pray that wisdom may guide them both before it is too late. I long -to see you, my dear fellow, and hear from your own lip your story.</p> - -<p class="r"> -Yours very sincerely,<br /> -(Signed) <span class="smcap">Henry M. Stanley</span>.<br /> -To <span class="smcap">A. J. Mounteney Jephson</span>, Esq.<br /> -</p> - -</div> - -<hr /> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="c"> -<span class="smcap">Private Postscript.</span><br /> -</p> - -<p class="r"> -Kavalli, <i>January 18th, 1889 3 p.m.</i><br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">My dear Jephson</span>,—</p> - -<p>I now send thirty rifles and three of Kavalli’s men down to the -Lake with my letters, with urgent instructions that a canoe should -set off and the bearers be rewarded.</p> - -<p>I may be able to stay longer than six days here, perhaps for ten -days. I will do my best to prolong my stay until you arrive, -without rupturing the peace. Our people have a good store of beads, -cowries, and cloth, and I notice that the natives trade very -readily, which will assist Kavalli’s resources should he get uneasy -under our prolonged visit.</p> - -<p>Be wise, be quick, and waste no hour of time, and bring Binza and -your own Soudanese with you. I have read your letters half-a-dozen -times over, but I fail to grasp the situation thoroughly, because -in some important details one letter seems to contradict the other. -In one you say the Pasha is a close prisoner, while you are allowed -a certain amount of liberty; in the other you say that you will -come to me as soon as you hear of our arrival here, and “I trust,” -you say, “the Pasha will be able to accompany me.” Being prisoners, -I fail to see how you could leave Tunguru at all. All this is not -very clear to us who are fresh from the bush.</p> - -<p>If the Pasha can come, send a courier on your arrival at our old -camp on the Lake below here to announce the fact, and I will send a -strong detachment to escort him up to the plateau, even to carry -him, if he needs it. I feel too exhausted, after my thirteen -hundred miles of travel since I parted from you last May, to go -down to the Lake again. The Pasha must have some pity on me.</p> - -<p>Don’t be alarmed or uneasy on our account; nothing hostile can -approach us within twelve miles without my knowing it. I am in the -midst of a friendly population, and if I sound the war-note, within -four hours I can have two thousand warriors to assist to repel any -force disposed to violence. And if it is to be a war of wits, why -then I am ready for the cunningest Arab alive.</p> - -<p>I wrote above that I read your letters half-a-dozen times, and my -opinion of you varies with each reading. Sometimes I fancy you are -half Mahdist or Arabist, and then Eminist. I shall be wiser when I -see you.</p> - -<p>Now don’t you be perverse, but obey; and let my order to you be as -a frontlet between the eyes, and all, with God’s gracious help, -will end well.</p> - -<p>I want to help the Pasha somehow, but he must also help me and -credit me. If he wishes to get out of this trouble, I am his most -devoted<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_128" id="page_128"></a>{128}</span> servant and friend; but if he hesitates again, I shall be -plunged in wonder and perplexity. I could save a dozen Pashas if -they were willing to be saved. I would go on my knees to implore -the Pasha to be sensible in his own case. He is wise enough in all -things else, except in his own interest. Be kind and good to him -for many virtues, but do not you be drawn into that fatal -fascination which Soudan territory seems to have for all Europeans -of late years. As soon as they touch its ground, they seem to be -drawn into a whirlpool, which sucks them in and covers them with -its waves. The only way to avoid it is to obey blindly, devotedly, -and unquestioningly, all orders from the outside.</p> - -<p>The Committee said, “Relieve Emin Pasha with this ammunition. If he -wishes to come out, the ammunition will enable him to do so; if he -elects to stay, it will be of service to him.” The Khedive said the -same thing, and added, “But if the Pasha and his officers wish to -stay, they do so on their own responsibility.” Sir Evelyn Baring -said the same thing, in clear and decided words; and here I am, -after 4,100 miles of travel, with the last instalment of relief. -Let him who is authorised to take it, take it. Come; I am ready to -lend him all my strength and wit to assist him. But this time there -must be no hesitation, but positive yea or nay, and home we go.</p> - -<p class="r"> -Yours very sincerely,<br /> -<span class="smcap">Henry M. Stanley.</span><br /> -<span class="smcap">A. J. Mounteney Jephson</span>, Esq.<br /> -</p> - -</div> - -<hr /> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="r"> -Camp at Mpinga’s, one long march<br /> -from the Nyanza, and 10 miles east of Mazamboni’s.<br /> -<br /> -<i>January 17th, 1889.</i><br /> -</p> - -<p class="nind"> -To His Excellency <span class="smcap">Emin Pasha</span>,<br /> -Governor of the Equatorial Province.<br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Sir</span>,</p> - -<p>I have the honour to inform you that the second instalment of -relief which this Expedition was ordered to convey to you is now in -this camp, ready for delivery to any person charged to receive it -by you. If you prefer that we should deposit it at Kavalli or at -Kyya Nkondo’s, on the Lake, we shall be ready to do so on the -receipt of your instructions.</p> - -<p>This second instalment of relief consists of sixty-three cases -Remington cartridges, twenty-six cases of gunpowder, each 45 lbs. -weight; four cases of percussion caps, four bales of goods, one -bale of goods for Signor Casati—a gift from myself; two pieces of -blue serge, writing-paper, envelopes, blank books, &c.</p> - -<p>Having after great difficulty—greater than was -anticipated—brought relief to you, I am constrained to officially -demand from you receipts for the above goods and relief brought to -you, and also a definite answer to the question if you propose to -accept our escort and assistance to reach Zanzibar, or if Signor -Casati proposes to do so, or whether there are any officers or men -disposed to accept of our safe conduct to the sea. In the latter -event, I would be obliged to you if you would kindly state how -those persons desirous of leaving Africa can be communicated with. -I would respectfully suggest that all persons desirous of leaving -with me should proceed to and form camp either at Nsabé or at Kyya -Nkondo’s on the Lake, with sufficient stores of grain, &c., to -support them one month, and that a note should be sent to me -informing me of the same <i>viâ</i> Kavalli, whence I soon may receive -it. The person in charge of the people at this camp will inform me -definitely whether the people are<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_129" id="page_129"></a>{129}</span> ready to accept of our safe -conduct, and, upon being thus informed, I shall be pleased to -assume all further charge of them.</p> - -<p>If, at the end of twenty days, no news has been heard from you or -Mr. Jephson, I cannot hold myself responsible for what may happen. -We should be glad to stay at Kavalli’s if we were assured of food, -but a large following cannot be maintained there except by exacting -contributions by force, which would entirely close our intercourse -with the natives, and prevent us from being able to communicate -with you.</p> - -<p>If grain could be landed at Kyya Nkondo’s by steamer, and left in -charge of six or seven of your men, I could, upon being informed of -the fact, send a detachment of men to convey it to the plateau. It -is only the question of food that creates anxiety. Hence you will -perceive that I am under the necessity of requesting you to be very -definite and prompt, if you have the power.</p> - -<p>If within this period of twenty days you will be able to -communicate with me, and inform or suggest to me any way I can make -myself useful, or lend effective aid, I promise to strain every -effort to perform service to you. Meantime, awaiting your steamer -with great anxiety,<a name="FNanchor_4_4" id="FNanchor_4_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_4_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a></p> - -<p class="r"> -I am, your obedient servant,<br /> -(Signed) <span class="smcap">Henry M. Stanley</span>,<br /> -Commanding Relief Expedition.<br /> -</p> - -</div> - -<p>The second day after reaching Kavalli’s, thirty rifles were despatched -to the Lake shore with my replies to Emin Pasha and Mr. Jephson. The men -delivered the letters to Chief Mogo, and on their return to our camp -reported that the chief had departed from Nsabé for Mswa station. During -these few days we had received five beeves, six goats, and five days’ -rations of Indian corn, beans, sweet potatoes and millet, and further -contributions were on the way to camp from the surrounding chiefs.</p> - -<p>On the evening of the 21st, notice was brought to me that the Balegga -were collecting to attack us, and early the following morning sixty -rifles, with 1,500 Bavira and Wahuma were sent to meet them. The forces -met on the crest of the mountains overlooking the Lake, and the Balegga, -after a sharp resistance, were driven to their countrymen among the -subjects of Melindwa, who was the ally of Kabba Rega.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_130" id="page_130"></a>{130}</span></p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />Jan. 23.<br />Nyanza.</div> - -<p>The 23rd was spent by all the people of the plain country as a -thanksgiving day, and the Bavira women met at the camp to relieve their -joy at their deliverance from their inveterate enemy, with dancing and -singing, which lasted from 9 <small>A.M.</small> until 3 <small>P.M.</small> Each woman and child in -the dance circles was decked with bunches of green leaves in front and -rear and was painted with red clay, while their bodies were well smeared -with butter. The dance was excellent and exciting and not ungraceful, -but the healthy vocal harmony was better. The young warriors circled -around the female dancers, and exhibited their dexterity with the spear.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill-130_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/ill-130_sml.jpg" width="175" height="319" alt="A BELLE OF BAVIRA." -title="A BELLE OF BAVIRA." /></a><br /> -<span class="caption">A BELLE OF BAVIRA.</span> -</p> - -<p>During the following days we had rest and quiet. Contributions of -cattle, sheep, goats, fowls and pro<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_131" id="page_131"></a>{131}</span>visions were supplied daily with -great regularity, but on the 5th of February a note came from Jephson, -stating that he had arrived on the Lake shore, and a detachment of -Zanzibaris was at once sent to escort him to the plateau, the distance -being about thirteen miles.</p> - -<p>The next day Mr. Jephson himself arrived, and after dinner, in -conversing about the Pasha, he summed up, after nine months’ residence -with him, all he had learned, in the following words:—</p> - -<p>“Sentiment is the Pasha’s worst enemy. No one keeps Emin Pasha back but -Emin Pasha himself.” He further said, “I know no more about Emin Pasha’s -intentions this minute than you do yourself, and yet we have talked -together every day during your absence.” I then asked him to write me a -full report of what had taken place, bearing upon the revolt of the -troops of Equatoria, and his views respecting the invasion of the -Province by the Mahdists, and its results. Mr. Jephson readily complied, -and wrote the following:—</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="r"> -Kavalli’s Village, Albert Nyanza,<br /> -<i>February 7th, 1889.</i><br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Dear Sir</span>,</p> - -<p>I have the honour to submit to you the following report of my stay, -from May 24th, 1888, up to the present time, with his Excellency -Emin Pacha, Mudir of the Equatorial Province.</p> - -<p>According to your orders I visited nearly all the stations in the -Province, and read the letters from His Highness the Khedive and -from His Excellency Nubar Pasha, before all the officers, soldiers, -and Egyptian employés in each station and also your own address to -the soldiers. After having read, I spoke to the people, and after -giving them sufficient time to talk it over amongst themselves, -invited them to give me their decision as to whether they elected -to accept our safe-conduct to Egypt, or remain in this country.</p> - -<p>In every station, with the exception of Laboré, their unanimous -answer was “We will follow our mudir wherever he goes.” They all -seemed glad that we had come to help them, and said many things -indicating their good opinion of their mudir, and spoke in the -highest terms of his justice and kindness to them, and of his -devotion to them all these years. During the whole of my stay in -his country the Pasha has left me perfect liberty to mix with his -officers and people, and I was free to converse with them as I -pleased.</p> - -<p>On reaching Kirri, which is the last station occupied by the -soldiers of the 2nd Battalion, we stayed before going further, to -hear news from Rejaf. The country to the north and west of Kirri is -occupied by the soldiers of the 1st Battalion, who have been in -open rebellion against the Pasha’s authority for nearly four years. -Here the Pasha received a letter from Hamid Aga, the major of the -1st Battalion, begging him not to come on to Rejaf, as the rebels -had formed a plan to seize us and take<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_132" id="page_132"></a>{132}</span> us down to Khartoum, as -they believed Government still existed there, and that the news -that it had fallen was false. We were therefore obliged to return -without visiting the more northern stations.</p> - -<p>On our return, whilst reading the letters before the people at -Laboré, a soldier stepped out of the ranks and exclaimed, “All that -you are saying is a lie, and these letters are forgeries. Khartoum -has not fallen. That is the right road to Egypt. We will go by that -road only, or will stay and die in this country.”</p> - -<p>On the Pasha’s ordering him to be put in prison, the soldiers broke -from their ranks and surrounded us, and having loaded their rifles -presented them at us. They were generally excited and the utmost -uproar prevailed, and for some minutes we expected a general -massacre of ourselves and the small number of people with us. -However, they gradually cooled down, and asked me afterwards to -come and speak with them alone, which I did, and they expressed -great regret at what had happened. We have since heard that Surur -Aga, the Chief of the Station, had instigated them to act in this -way.</p> - -<p>A few days afterwards, on our return to Dufflé, August 18th, we -found a mutiny had broken out, headed by Fadl el Mulla Aga, the -Chief of Fabbo Station, and that the station was in the hands of -the mutineers—on our entry we were at once made prisoners. It -appears that during our absence certain Egyptians, chief amongst -them Abdul Wahab Effendi and Mustapha Effendi el Adjemi, both of -whom were sent up here for being concerned in Arabi’s rebellion, -together with the clerks Mustapha Effendi Achmet, Achmet Effendi -Mahmoud, Sabri Effendi, Tybe Effendi, and several others had in our -absence been speaking to the people and circulating letters amongst -them, saying it was untrue that Khartoum had fallen, that the -letters we had brought from His Highness the Khedive and his -Excellency Nubar Pasha were forgeries, that you were only an -adventurer and had not come from Egypt, but that you had formed a -plot with the Pasha to take all the people out of the country and -to hand them over, together with their wives and children, as -slaves to the English. They added, in Egypt they had rebelled -against His Highness the Khedive himself, so that it was no great -matter to rebel against Emin Pasha.</p> - -<p>These words raised a storm in the country, and though the soldiers -themselves took no active part in the mutiny beyond acting as -sentries over us, they allowed their officers to do as they -pleased. The head mutineers Fadl el Mulla Aga, Achmet Aga Dinkawi, -and Abdul Aga el Opt had them marched to Dufflé and joined the -rebellious Egyptians who had invited him to act as their chief. -They sent letters to all the stations, telling the officers they -had put the mudir and myself in prison, as we had conspired to -betray them, and ordered them to come up to Dufflé and attend a -meeting, when they would decide what further steps should be -taken—they also invited the rebellious officers of the 1st -Battalion to act with them.</p> - -<p>I was brought up before the mutineers and questioned about the -Expedition, and the letter from His Highness was examined and -declared by the clerks to be a forgery. The mutineers then proposed -to depose the Pasha, and all those who were averse to such a -measure were by intimidation at last forced to give in. A letter -was handed to him informing him of his deposition, and it was -decided that he should be kept a prisoner at Rejaf. I was declared -to be free, but to all intents and purposes I was a prisoner, as I -was not allowed to leave the station, and all my movements were -closely watched. A plan was also formed to entice you into the -country, and to rob you of all your guns, ammunition, stores, etc., -and then to turn you adrift.</p> - -<p>The mutineers then proceeded to form a new Government, and all -those<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_133" id="page_133"></a>{133}</span> officers who were suspected of being friendly to the Pasha -were removed from their posts. Soon, however, jealousy and -dissensions began to arise amongst them, and after the Pasha’s -house and the houses of two or three people supposed to be friendly -to him had been looted, things came pretty much to a standstill.</p> - -<p>Whilst things were in this state, we suddenly heard, on October -15th, that the Mahdi’s people had arrived in three steamers, and -nine sandals and nuggars, at Lado; and on the 17th three dervishes, -under a flag of truce, brought a letter from Omar Sale, the -commander of the Mahdi’s forces, addressed to the Pasha, promising -him a free pardon should he and his people surrender. The letter -was opened by the mutineers who decided to fight. On October 21st -we heard that the Mahdi’s people, who had been joined by many -negroes of the Bari tribe, had attacked and taken Rejaf, and three -officers, two clerks, and a great many men had been killed, and all -the women and children in the station had been captured. This -created a panic, and the officers and soldiers, together with their -women and children, abandoned the stations of Bidden, Kirri, and -Muggi, and fled in disorder to Laboré; at Kirri they even left the -ammunition behind them.</p> - -<p>The mutineers on hearing of this disaster determined to send down -large reinforcements to Muggi, and soldiers were sent down from all -the southern stations to collect there. On October 31st we heard -that there were great dissensions amongst the officers at Muggi, -and the soldiers had declared they would not fight unless their -mudir was set at liberty. On November 15th we heard that the -soldiers had marched down to Rejaf, but that on their approaching -the station the Mahdi’s people had sallied out and attacked them -with a rush; the soldiers made no attempt to fight, but turned at -once and fled, leaving their officers behind them. Six officers, -and the newly-made Governor of the Province, and some of the worst -of the rebels were killed, two more officers were missing, and many -soldiers were killed as they fell down exhausted in the flight.</p> - -<p>Upon hearing the news, the officers who were friendly to the Pasha, -at once pressed the rebel officers to set him at liberty; and they -being afraid of the people, set him free and sent us to Wadelai, -where the Pasha was most enthusiastically received by the faithful -part of the population there—he had been a close prisoner just -three months. At last the people believed that Khartoum had fallen -and that we had come from Egypt.</p> - -<p>After remaining some days at Wadelai and hearing no news from -Dufflé, people became very uneasy, and messengers were sent down to -Dufflé, on the east bank of the river, to carry letters and to -ascertain the reason of the long silence, as we had heard that a -large body of the Mahdi’s people were advancing from the west on -Wadelai and were only four days distant.</p> - -<p>On December 4th, an officer in command of Bora, a small station -between Wadelai and Dufflé, came in with his soldiers in great -haste, saying they had abandoned their post at Dufflé, Fabbo and -all the northern station had fallen, and that the steamers also had -been captured and were in the hands of the Mahdi’s people, the -natives round the stations had all risen and joined the enemy and -had killed our messengers. On hearing this news a council was held, -and the officers and soldiers at once decided to abandon and retire -to Tunguru, from which place they would ascend the mountains and -try to join you at Fort Bodo. I was desired at the council to -destroy our boat the <i>Advance</i>, to prevent her falling into the -hands of the Mahdi, and, as there was no prospect of saving her, I -was reluctantly obliged to do so. On the next day, December 5th, we -had all ready for an early start, taking with us only a few bundles -of the most necessary things and abandoning everything else.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_134" id="page_134"></a>{134}</span> All -the ammunition in the storehouses was divided among the soldiers, -who at the last moment declared, as they now had plenty of -ammunition, they preferred to retire to their own -countries—Makraka and the countries round—where they would -disperse and live amongst their own people, and that they would -desert the Pasha and their officers.</p> - -<p>Things, however, seemed desperate, and we hurried on without -them—a long, straggling procession, consisting chiefly of Egyptian -employés with their wives and families; we were accompanied only by -some seven or eight soldiers who remained faithful. Some of our -servants were armed with percussion-guns, and we may have mustered -some thirty guns amongst us. Immediately on our quitting the -station the soldiers entered the houses and looted them.</p> - -<p>On December 6th a steamer was seen coming up the river after us, -and our people prepared to fire on her; but it turned out that -there were some of our own people from Dufflé on board with letters -from the Pasha. The letters contained the news that Fabbo had been -evacuated, and that the refugees had been able to reach Dufflé in -spite of the negroes who had attacked them. Dufflé had been -besieged by the Mahdi’s people for four days, and the station -itself had been taken and held for some time by a small body of the -enemy, who had entered it at night and they had also captured the -steamers. They had driven the soldiers, of whom there were some -500, actually out of the station; but they, finding themselves -between two fires, had with the energy of despair responded to the -entreaties of their officers. Selim Aga Mator, Bellal Aga, Bachil -Aga, Burgont, and Suleiman Aga, had re-entered the station and -retaken it, and after making a sally, had so punished the enemy -that they retired to Rejaf and sent down two steamers to Khartoum -for reinforcements.</p> - -<p>From all accounts we have since heard the soldiers acted with great -cowardice, except at last when they were rendered desperate. In -this affray at Dufflé, fourteen officers and a large number of -soldiers were killed, and Suleiman Aga was shot by his own men, and -has since died. The losses of the enemy were estimated at 250, but -probably a third of that number would be nearer the mark, even -though the Mahdi’s people fought almost entirely with spears and -swords, and the soldiers were armed with Remingtons, and fought -behind a ditch and earthworks, but they are such bad shots that -their shooting had not much effect.</p> - -<p>The officers and soldiers at Wadelai were anxious for the Pasha to -return, but after the faithless example the soldiers had shown, -when he believed things to be desperate, he preferred to proceed to -Tunguru. After this retreat from Wadelai, lasting only two days, I -am better able to understand what a difficult and almost impossible -task getting the people to Zanzibar will be, should they elect to -go with us.</p> - -<p>After this retreat from Wadelai, the party against the Pasha, which -is again in the ascendant, now that the immediate fear of the -Mahdi’s people is removed, have accused him of having invented the -whole story of the fall of Dufflé, in order to cut off their -retreat and hand them over to the Mahdi, whilst he and the people -with him escaped from the country and joined you. They sentenced -the Pasha, Casati and myself to death for treachery.</p> - -<p>During the Council held eventually at Wadelai by all the officers -and soldiers, there was a great amount of quarrelling and -discussion, some wishing to stay in the country, and some wishing -to follow the Pasha, words ran high, and the contending parties -even came to blows. Fadl el Mulla Aga and his party wished to take -the Pasha and myself prisoners, and the other party, headed by -Selim Aga Mator, wished to join the Pasha and leave the country -with him; but though they profess to wish<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_135" id="page_135"></a>{135}</span> to leave the country, -they make no effort whatever to get things ready for the start. If -you intend to take them with you, you will have to wait many months -before they are ready. Meanwhile the Pasha, Signor Casati and I -were waiting at Tunguru, the mutineers having given strict -injunctions to the chief of the station to detain us there until -further orders.</p> - -<p>On January the 26th the Pasha and I got letters from you, dated -January 17th and 18th, and obeying the strict order you give me in -your letters to start for Kavalli’s immediately on receipt of them, -I got ready to start the next day, bringing with me the Pasha’s -answer to your letter. Owing to the treachery of some of the -Pasha’s people, I was delayed two days in the earlier stage of my -journey; but thanks to Shukri Agha, the Chief of Mswa Station, who -has remained faithful to the Pasha, and of whose conduct throughout -the whole of the last unfortunate five months I cannot speak too -highly, I was enabled to induce the natives to bring me in a canoe -to Nyamsassi, but as the Lake is so rough and dangerous at this -time of the year, it has taken me five days from Mswa to Nyamsassi.</p> - -<p>It is impossible to give you any true idea of the state of the -country at the present. Sometimes the mutineers are in the -ascendant, and sometimes the party for the Pasha. One steamer full -of reinforcements for the Mahdi’s people has already arrived at -Rejaf, and two more steamers full are shortly expected, -reinforcements will also probably soon come in from Bahr el Ghazal, -when the Mahdi’s people, turning to revenge their defeat at Dufflé, -will most certainly descend on Wadelai with an overpowering force, -and will surprise the people in the midst of their quarrels and -uncertainty. Tunguru is but two days distant from Wadelai, and the -Pasha’s position there, surrounded by people in whom he can place -no trust, is dangerous in the extreme, and it is of the utmost -importance that he should be relieved with as little delay as -possible.</p> - -<p>In your letter to me dated January 17th and 18th, you speak rather -bitterly of the Pasha and myself having failed to carry out our -promises of building a station at Nsabé, garrisoning it and storing -it with provisions ready for you on your return to the Nyanza, of -having failed to relieve Fort Bodo, and to carry the loads and -garrison to the station at Nsabé, and of not having such people as -wished to avail themselves of our escort ready at Nsabé, to start -with you on your return. The reason we were unable to do so was as -follows:—After being away from his country for nearly a month with -you at Nsabé, the Pasha had naturally much business to attend to on -his return to Wadelai, the seat of Government, and I myself was for -nearly a month constantly prostrated by fever, and we were not able -to start from Wadelai to visit the northern stations till July.<a name="FNanchor_5_5" id="FNanchor_5_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_5_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a></p> - -<p>Having done our work to the north, we were returning with the -intention of carrying out our promises to you, when on August 18th, -we were taken prisoners, and all authority was taken out of the -Pasha’s hands, and we were rendered absolutely powerless to fulfil -those promises. We had tried before leaving Wadelai, to start a -party to Nsabé to build a<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_136" id="page_136"></a>{136}</span> station, but the soldiers had refused to -obey the order, until they had heard what their brethren in the -Northern stations had decided to do. It is very lucky that a -station was not built, and the goods and garrison of Fort Bodo -removed there, for the rebels would most certainly have seized all -our goods, and made the Europeans in charge prisoners.</p> - -<p>And this leads me now to say a few words concerning the position of -affairs in this country when I entered it on 21st April, 1888. The -first battalion had long been in open rebellion against the Pasha’s -authority, and had twice attempted to make him prisoner; the second -battalion, though professedly loyal, was insubordinate and almost -unmanageable, the Pasha possessed only a semblance, a mere rag of -authority—and if he required anything of importance to be done he -could no longer order, he was obliged to beg his officers to do it.</p> - -<p>Now when we were at Nsabé in May ’88, though the Pasha hinted that -things were a little difficult in this country, he never revealed -to us the true state of things, which was actually desperate; and -we had not the slightest idea that any mutiny or discontent was -likely to arise amongst his people. We thought—as we and most -people in Europe and Egypt had been taught to believe, by the -Pasha’s own letters and Dr. Junker’s later information—that all -these difficulties arose from events outside his country, whereas -in point of fact, his real danger arose from internal dissensions. -Thus we were led to place our trust in people who were utterly -unworthy of our confidence and help, and who instead of being -grateful to us for wishing to help them, have from the very first -conspired to plunder the Expedition, and turn us adrift; and had -the mutineers in their highly excited state been able to prove one -single case of injustice, cruelty or neglect of his people against -the Pasha, he would most assuredly have lost his life in this -rebellion.</p> - -<p>There are of course some people who have remained faithful to the -Pasha, and many who have remained neutral, and these chiefly are -the people who are willing to come out with us. There are also a -great number of Egyptian clerks, many of whom have behaved very -badly, but the coming of the Mahdi’s people has so frightened them -that they too now wish to come out with us; but in spite of my -constant advice to them to move forward, they seem incapable of -making any effort to leave the country and concentrate at Nsabé, at -which place they would be within our reach—there is absolutely -nothing to prevent their doing so, but their own laziness.</p> - -<p>The greater part of the people, a large number of Egyptians and -most of the Soudanese, are decidedly averse to going to Egypt, and -do not wish to leave the country. Most of them have never been to -Egypt, but have been recruited from the countries round here. Here -they can support a large household, many of the officers have as -many as from eighteen to one hundred people, women, children and -servants, in their houses, and it is the great ambition of every -Soudanese to have as many people as possible in his house, but in -Egypt they could only afford to support three or four people on -their pay. These things being considered, it is quite natural that -they should prefer to remain in their own country.</p> - -<p>As to the Pasha’s wish to leave the country, I can say decidedly he -is most anxious to go out with us, but under what condition he will -consent to come out I can hardly understand. I do not think he -quite knows himself, his ideas seem to me to vary so much on the -subject; to-day he is ready to start up and go, to-morrow some new -idea holds him back. I have had many conversations with him about -it, but have never been able to get his unchanging opinion on the -subject. After this rebellion I remarked to him, “I presume now -that your people have deposed you and put you aside, you do not -consider that you have any longer any <span class="pagenum"><a name="page_137" id="page_137"></a>{137}</span>responsibility or obligation -concerning them,” and he answered, “Had they not deposed me I -should have felt bound to stand by them and help them in any way I -could, but now, I consider I am absolutely free to think only of my -personal safety and welfare, and if I get the chance, I shall go -out regardless of everything;” and yet only a few days before I -left him, he said to me, “I know I am not in any way responsible -for these people, but I cannot bear to go out myself first and -leave anyone behind me who is desirous of quitting the country. It -is mere sentiment I know, and perhaps a sentiment you will not -sympathize with, but my enemies at Wadelai would point at me and -say to the people, ‘You see he has deserted you.’” These are merely -two examples of what passed between us on the subject of his going -out with us, but I could quote numbers of things he said, all -equally contradictory. Again, too, being somewhat impatient after -one of these unsatisfactory conversations, I said, “If even the -Expedition does reach any place near you, I shall advise Mr. -Stanley to arrest you and carry you off, whether you will or no;” -to which he replied, “Well, I shall do nothing to prevent his doing -that.” It seems to me, if we are to save him, we must first save -him from himself.</p> - -<p>Before closing this report, I must bear witness to the fact that in -my frequent conversations with all sorts and conditions of the -Pasha’s people, most of them spoke of his justice and generosity to -them, but they also said, and what I have seen confirms it, that he -did not hold his people with a sufficiently firm hand.</p> - -<p>The three Soudanese soldiers you left with me as orderlies and my -servant Binza return with me, but Mabruki Kassim, the man who was -wounded by the buffalo at Nsabé, died two days after you left for -Fort Bodo.</p> - -<p class="r"> -I am, dear Sir,<br /> -Your obedient servant,<br /> -(Signed) <span class="smcap">A. J. Mounteney Jephson</span>.<br /> -</p> - -<p class="nind"> -To <span class="smcap">H. M. Stanley</span>, Esq.,<br /> -Commanding the Relief Expedition.<br /> -</p> - -</div> - -<p>Mr. Jephson also handed me an official receipt to my formal letter of -January 18th, written by Emin Pasha.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="r"> -Tunguru,<br /> -<i>January 27th, 1889</i>.<br /> -</p> - -<p class="nind"> -To <span class="smcap">H. M. Stanley</span>, Esq.,<br /> -Commanding the Relief Expedition.<br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Sir</span>,</p> - -<p>I have the honour to acknowledge receipt of your note of January -14th, Camp Undussuma, and of your official letter of January 17th, -which came to hand yesterday afternoon. I beg at the same time to -be allowed to express my sincere congratulations to you and to your -party for the work you performed.</p> - -<p>I take note of your offer to deliver to me, or any person appointed -by me, the second instalment of goods brought by you, consisting of -sixty-three cases of Remington cartridges, twenty-six cases of -gunpowder, each 45 lbs. weight, four cases percussion caps, four -bales of goods, one bale of goods for Signor Casati—a gift from -yourself; two pieces of serge, writing-paper, envelopes, -blank-books, &c. As soon as the officers I am awaiting from Wadelai -come here, I shall appoint one of them to take charge of these -goods, and I shall at the same time instruct him to give you formal -receipt for them.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_138" id="page_138"></a>{138}</span></p> - -<p>The thirty-one cases of Remington cartridges, which formed the -first instalment of goods, have been duly deposited in Government -stores.</p> - -<p>Concerning your question if Signor Casati and myself propose to -accept your escort and assistance to reach Zanzibar, and if there -are any officers and men disposed to accept of your safe-conduct to -the sea, I have to state that not only Signor Casati and myself -would gladly avail us of your help, but that there are lots of -people desirous of going out from the far Egypt, as well as for any -other convenient place. As these people have been delayed by the -deplorable events which have happened during your absence, and as -only from a few days they begin to come in, I should entreat you to -kindly assist them. I propose to send them to Nyamsassi, and a -first party start to-day with Mr. Jephson. Every one of them has -provisions enough to last at least for a month.</p> - -<p>I beg to tender my thanks for the statement of your movements. As -from the day you fixed your movements until the arrival of your -letter elapsed nine days; the remainder of the time you kindly gave -us, viz., eleven days, will scarcely be sufficient. I cannot, -therefore, but thank you for your good intentions, and those of the -people who sent you, and I must leave it to you if you can await -us, and prefer to start after the twenty days have elapsed.</p> - -<p>I fully understand the difficulties of getting food and provisions -for your people, and I am very sorry that the short time you have -to give me will not be sufficient to send you stores from here.</p> - -<p>As Mr. Jephson starts by this steamer, and has kindly promised to -hand you this note, I avail myself of the occasion to bear witness -to the great help and assistance his presence afforded to me. Under -the most trying circumstances he has shown so splendid courage, -such unfaltering kindness and patience, that I cannot but wish him -every success in life, and thank him for all his forbearance. As -probably I shall not see you any more,<a name="FNanchor_6_6" id="FNanchor_6_6"></a><a href="#Footnote_6_6" class="fnanchor">[6]</a> you will be pleased to -inform his relations of my thanks to him and them.</p> - -<p>Before concluding, I beg to be permitted to tender anew my most -heartfelt thanks to you and to your officers and men, and to ask -you to transmit my everlasting gratitude to the kind people who -sent you to help us. May God protect you and your party, and give -you a happy and speedy homeward march.</p> - -<p class="r"> -I am, Sir,<br /> -Your obedient servant,<br /> -<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_139" id="page_139"></a>{139}</span>(Signed) Dr. <span class="smcap">Emin Pasha</span>.<br /> -</p> - -</div> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXV" id="CHAPTER_XXV"></a>CHAPTER XXV.<br /><br /> -<small>EMIN PASHA AND HIS OFFICERS REACH OUR CAMP AT KAVALLI.</small></h2> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hangg">Lieut. Stairs and his caravan are sent for—Plans regarding the -release of Emin from Tunguru—Conversations with Jephson by which I -acquire a pretty correct idea of the state of affairs—The rebel -officers at Wadelai—They release Emin, and proceed in the s.s. -<i>Khedive</i> and <i>Nyanza</i> to our camp at Kavalli—Emin Pasha’s -arrival—Stairs and his caravan arrive at -Mazamboni’s—Characteristic letter from Jephson, who is sent to -bring Emin and his officers from the Lake to Kavalli—Short note -from the Pasha—Arrival of Emin Pasha’s caravan—We make a grand -display outside our camp—At the grand divan: Selim Bey—Stairs’ -column rolls into camp with piles of wealth—Mr. Bonny despatched -to the Nyanza to bring up baggage—Text of my message to the rest -of the revolted officers at Wadelai—Note from Mr. Bonny—The Greek -merchant, Signor Marco, arrives—Suicide of Zanzibari named -Mrima—Neighbouring chiefs supply us with carriers—Captain Nelson -brings in Emin’s baggage—Arrangements with the chiefs from the -Ituri River to the Nyanza—The chief Kabba-Rega—Emin Pasha’s -daughter—Selim Bey receives a letter from Fadl-el-Mulla—The Pasha -appointed naturalist and meteorologist to the Expedition—The Pasha -a Materialist—Dr. Hassan’s arrival—My inspection over the -camp—Capt. Casati arrives—Mr. Bonny appears with Awash Effendi -and his baggage—The rarest doctor in the world—Discovery of some -chimpanzees—The Pasha in his vocation of -“collecting”—Measurements of the dwarfs—Why I differ with Emin in -the judgment of his men—Various journeys from the camp to the Lake -for men and baggage—The Zanzibaris’ complaints—The -ringleaders—Hassan Bakari—The Egyptian officers—Interview with -Shukri Agha—The flora on the Baregga Hills—The chief of Usiri -joins our confederacy—Conversation with Emin regarding Selim Bey -and Shukri Agha—Address by me to Stairs, Nelson, Jephson and Parke -before Emin Pasha—Their replies—Notices to Selim Bey and Shukri -Agha.</p></div> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />Feb. 7.<br />Kavalli’s.</div> - -<p>On February 7th I decided to send for Lieutenant Stairs and his caravan, -and despatched Rashid with thirty-five men to obtain a hundred carriers -from Mazamboni to assist the convalescents. My object was to collect the -expedition at Kavalli, and send letters in the meantime to Emin Pasha -proposing that he should:<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_140" id="page_140"></a>{140}</span> 1st. Seize a steamer and embark such people -as chose to leave Tunguru, and sail for our Lake shore camp. After which -we could man her with Zanzibaris, and perform with despatch any further -transport service necessary. If this was not practicable, then—</p> - -<p>2nd. To march to Mswa station overland, and on arrival to report by -canoe that he had done so. If this was not possible.</p> - -<p>3rd. Stay at Tunguru, and let me know by Chief Mogo whether he needed a -force of rescue.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill-140_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/ill-140_sml.jpg" width="321" height="233" alt="VIEW OF CAMP AT KAVALLI." -title="VIEW OF CAMP AT KAVALLI." /></a><br /> -<span class="caption">VIEW OF CAMP AT KAVALLI.</span> -</p> - -<p>In which case, on arrival of Lieutenant Stairs, I proposed to march with -300 rifles and 2,000 native auxiliaries through Melindwa to Mswa -station, and thence to Tunguru, to employ force for the relief of the -Pasha. But it was absolutely necessary that I should be clearly told -what the Pasha wished. In his letter of the 27th January there was a -disposition to be somewhat lachrymose and melancholic, quite contrary to -what was expected in answer to the definite question given in the formal -letter of January 17th, “Was he disposed to accept our escort and -assistance to reach Zanzibar, or suggest to me any way by which I could -make myself<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_141" id="page_141"></a>{141}</span> useful or lend effective aid.” If he stated his wish -decisively then, then I promised “to strain every effort to perform -service to him.”</p> - -<p>Perceiving that neither my letter to Mr. Jephson—which was intended to -be read to the Pasha—nor that my formal letter to himself was -understood by him, I proceeded to write one after a purely business -style, which I thought the dullest private in his army might understand, -but when Jephson heard it read he affected to be aghast at it.</p> - -<p>As there was no intention to wound the most super-sensitive -susceptibilities of any person—least of all the Pasha—I wrote one -after a style which probably Chesterfield himself would have admitted -was the proper thing, which my friend Jephson pronounced was “charming,” -and “nice,” and “exquisitely sweet,” and on the 8th sent the couriers -down to the Lake with it.</p> - -<p>Day by day, during conversation with Mr. Jephson—who was, “by the bye,” -a pronounced Eminist—I acquired a pretty correct idea of the state of -affairs. There was one confirmed habit I observed that Mr. Jephson had -contracted during his compulsory residence with the Pasha which provoked -a smile, and that was, while saying several crushing things about the -Province, he interlarded his clever remarks with—“Well, you know, the -poor, dear Pasha! He is a dear old fellow, you know. ‘Pon my word, I -can’t help but sympathise with the Pasha, he’s such a dear good man,” -&c., &c. They served to illuminate traits of character, and showed that, -at all events, Jephson had a kindly heart, and what he had seen and -heard only made him esteem the Pasha the more; but when he spoke of the -Egyptians, the most portentous vocabulary was requisitioned to load them -with abuse—“unmitigated scoundrels, depraved villains, treacherous -dogs, unscrupulously vile,” &c., &c. The Egyptians were “animals with -foxy natures,” the Soudanese were “brutishly stupid.” One chief clerk -had falsified accounts at the Khartoum Arsenal, and had been the -recipient of 1,500 stripes with the kourbash;<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_142" id="page_142"></a>{142}</span> another had been detected -making huge profits by mixing powdered charcoal with the gunpowder, and -filling Remington cartridges with it. A major had been convicted of -trading in Government stores; others had been sent to the Siberia of the -Equator as convicts, guilty of various felonies, arson, murder, &c.; -others were transported thither for being concerned in Arabi’s -rebellion, &c., &c.; and it became clear that whatever sanguine hopes -the Pasha had cherished, he must often have distrusted his powers during -his constrained intercourse with the penal outcasts placed under him. -While there was a reserve of dominating power, and an overshadowing -personality of stern justice in the figure of Gordon at Khartoum, the -penal serfs were under some control, though Gessi Pasha, even as far -back as 1879, was copious in complaints of Emin to Gordon, but when the -news spread throughout the Province that Khartoum was taken, and the -Governor-General slain, and all traces of Egyptian Government had -vanished, the native unruliness of the Egyptians, and brutish -stubbornness of the Soudanese found vent, and was manifested in utter -disregard to orders, and perverse misconduct. Emin was now a Pasha in -name and title only. Government was petrified, order was dead. Some men, -in Emin’s place, would have become so disgusted, that after arming -themselves with excuses for retreat by overt proofs of contempt of his -authority, would have collected a few faithful men, or have retired to -some small post like Mswa station at the remote South, reported frankly -the events, and have applied for relief and instructions. Others, again, -would have exacted performance of duty and discipline to the very end, -regardless of consequences. Others, again, would have removed with such -as were willing from the arena of perpetual discord, founded an empire -or a kingdom, and have applied for assistance from the civilized world, -which they would certainly have obtained. Others, like Emin did, would -have temporised and hoped. Men, however, reap only what they have sown; -as the seed is sown, so will be the harvest.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_143" id="page_143"></a>{143}</span></p> - -<p>But while we were discussing the probable decision of the Pasha, and -awaiting the arrival of Stairs’s column, events unknown to us were -occurring, which decided the matter for us as well as for Emin.</p> - -<p>The rebel officers, who were concentrated at Wadelai, while Jephson was -on his way to us South of Tunguru, heard of our arrival on the Lake. -Report had magnified our forces. We had several hundred Zanzibaris and -allies, and we were armed with machine guns and repeating rifles. The -Egyptian Government at Khartoum was dead, and in its place was a Khalif, -with resistless armies fully established. There were Mahdist agents and -traitors among them, the rest were indifferent. Emin was deposed, and a -prisoner. To him who hath shall be given. Like a rolling snowball, -power, when once established, attracts and grows; an isolated snowdrop -melts. Emin was the snowdrop, the Khalif of Khartoum was the growing -snowball.</p> - -<p>It is easy, therefore, to understand the motives of the officers, who -are declared rebels, who have traitors and Mahdists among them to -influence their councils, and to predict what the natural outcome will -be. They will curry favour with the Khalif by betraying their would-be -rescuers and their former Pasha and his white companions into his hands, -and win honour and glory by so doing. For the machine guns, repeating -rifles and Remingtons, and a batch of white prisoners, the Khalif would -reward them handsomely, and promote those chiefly concerned in their -delivery to him to honourable and lucrative offices, and endow them with -robes of honour. But there is a difficulty. How will they gain access to -the camp of their rescuers when they have heard of the Pasha being -imprisoned and their friend Jephson having been treated so cruelly? -“Nothing easier,” says one; “let us send a deputation to the Pasha to -humbly ask forgiveness, and promise to reinstate him in power, and Emin -is so good-natured that he will readily condone our offences, and offer -to introduce us to his friends as penitents, who, wearied with trouble, -only now seek to prove their obedience and loyalty to their<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_144" id="page_144"></a>{144}</span> great -Government. Once in the stranger’s camp, we may see for ourselves what -further can be done, and if we then agree to capture the gang of whites -and their followers, nothing will be easier, for all white men are -soft-headed duffers. At any rate, it is wise to have two ways from which -to choose. If the Khalif is relentless, and his Donagla pursue us with -that fierceness so characteristic of them, and the door to his mercy is -closed, we can fall back upon the camp of the white men, and by apparent -obedience disarm all suspicion, make use of them to find us a land of -plenty, and suddenly possess ourselves of their arms and ammunition, and -either send them adrift as beggars, or slay the whites and make their -followers our slaves.”</p> - -<p>We can imagine the thunders of applause that greeted this Egyptian son -of Beelzebub as he ended his oration. But whether such a speech was made -or not, the officers despatched a deputation to the Pasha, of fourteen -officers. They kissed Emin’s hands, they expressed humble contrition for -their offences, they offered to reinstate him in power as Governor, and -they implored him to accompany them to Stanley’s Camp at Kavalli, and to -speak for them, and the Pasha gladly acceded to their request. He -embarked on board the steamer <i>Khedive</i>; refugees crowded on board with -their goods and baggage, and Captain Casati was with them with his -following, and the <i>Nyanza</i> likewise was freighted, and with every show -of honour the Pasha was brought to Mswa. At this station he met my -messengers with my last letter, and having read it, he resumed his -voyage to our Lake shore Camp.</p> - -<p>While Jephson and I were at dinner on the evening of February 13th, -messengers came to us and delivered to us a letter from Emin Pasha.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="r"> -Camp,<br /> -<i>February 13th</i>, 1889.<br /> -</p> - -<p class="nind"> -<span class="smcap">To Henry M. Stanley</span>, Esq., Commanding the Relief Expedition.<br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Sir</span>,—</p> - -<p>In answer to your letter of the 7th instant, for which I beg to -tender my best thanks, I have the honour to inform you that -yesterday, at 3 <small>P.M.</small>, I arrived here with my two steamers, carrying -a first lot of people<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_145" id="page_145"></a>{145}</span> desirous to leave this country under your -escort. As soon as I have arranged for cover of my people, the -steamships have to start for Mswa station, to bring on another lot -of people awaiting transport.</p> - -<p>With me there are some twelve officers anxious to see you, and only -forty soldiers. They have come under my orders to request you to -give them some time to bring their brothers—at least, such as are -willing to leave—from Wadelai, and I promised them to do my best -to assist them. Things having to some extent now changed, you will -be able to make them undergo whatever conditions you see fit to -impose upon them. To arrange these I shall start from here with the -officers for your camp, after having provided for the camp, and if -you send carriers I could avail me of some of them.</p> - -<p>I hope sincerely that the great difficulties you have had to -undergo, and the great sacrifices made by your Expedition in its -way to assist us, may be rewarded by a full success in bringing out -my people. The wave of insanity which overran the country has -subsided, and of such people as are now coming with me we may be -sure.</p> - -<p>Signor Casati requests me to give his best thanks for your kind -remembrance of him.</p> - -<p>Permit me to express to you once more my cordial thanks for -whatever you have done for us until now, and believe me to be,</p> - -<p class="r"> -Yours very faithfully,<br /> -Dr. <span class="smcap">Emin</span>.<br /> -</p> - -</div> - -<p>The Pasha evidently believes that his men are still faithful to him. He -says: “You will be able to make them undergo whatever conditions you see -fit to impose upon them....” “Of such people as are now coming with me -you may be sure.”</p> - -<p>I hope so, but if one-half of what Jephson says is true, the Pasha must -have greater confidence in them than I can command. However, if the -“wave of insanity has subsided,” so much the better. All is well that -ends well. Jephson will go down to the Lake to-morrow with fifty rifles, -to escort the Pasha and his officers to the Plateau. I shall send -couriers also to Stairs at Mazamboni’s to bring up his force quickly, -that we may be all at hand to impress our rebel friends by the way our -wild fantastic warrior-carriers deploy at the word of command.</p> - -<p><i>February 16th</i>.—Received note from Stairs announcing arrival at -Mazamboni’s, which states he may arrive on the 17th or 18th instant. He -writes: “We were all delighted at the Ituri River Camp at the arrival of -your couriers with Chief Rashid, bringing the news that Jephson was with -you; but the news about Emin Pasha<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_146" id="page_146"></a>{146}</span> seemed very black. However, your -letter this morning dispels every foreboding, and now we all hope we -shall be able to move on with speed towards Zanzibar.”</p> - -<p>Goodness, how impatient young men are! I wonder if we shall get away -within three months!</p> - -<p>Another courier has arrived from Jephson with one of Jephson’s -characteristic letters.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p> -Weré Camp, Albert Nyanza, <i>February 15th</i>, 1889.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Dear Sir</span>,—</p> - -<p>I reached this camp yesterday, but owing to the natives leading us -by a very long road we did not arrive till morning.</p> - -<p>We found the Pasha, Casati, Marco, Vita, the apothecary, and -several officers and clerks, who had made their camp in a very nice -spot about two miles north of our old camp, where we first met the -Pasha.</p> - -<p>On arriving, after having delivered your letter, and having told -and heard the news, I asked the Pasha when he proposed moving. He -said he must speak to his officers first. This morning a meeting -was called, and it was decided that we should start to-morrow for -Kavalli’s, taking two days on the road.</p> - -<p>The Pasha will come to see you, will perhaps stay a few days in -your camp, and then return and bring up his daughter and the rest -of his loads, which amount to about 200, which consist of millet, -salt, sesame, &c. The officers will only bring twenty loads, as -they are merely coming up to talk with you for bringing up their -troops and goods. The clerks bring up all their loads and remain -with us.</p> - -<p>Both the steamers return to Mswa on the 18th, to bring up the rest -of the people and goods from that station, as well as to bring up -corn for the supply of the Lake camp.</p> - -<p>On the arrival of the steamers at Mswa, the irregulars (some fifty -guns) will march overhead to Kavalli’s with such women as are able -to walk well, and the steamers, on their return here, will at once -take the officers down to Wadelai.</p> - -<p>The Pasha has brought sixty tusks of ivory; the surplus will -doubtless be useful. Though there is a day’s delay, I do not regret -it, as both the Zanzibaris and myself were fairly worn out when we -reached here yesterday, and had we started to-day there would, I -fear, have been many sore feet. In spite, however, of our fatigue, -the Zanzibaris rushed madly into the camp, howling like demons. -They went through the usual mad exercises with imaginary enemies, -and then drew up in line before the Pasha. The soldiers drew up in -correct form and saluted him also. He was very pleased, and asked -me to say a few words to them, expressing his thanks to them for -all the trials they have gone through to help him, which I did, as -well as I was able, in my broken Ki-swa-hili. The Pasha set all the -women to grind corn, and I served out two cups apiece to them, the -Soudanese, Manyuema, and natives. To-day Saat Tato, the hunter, and -another, have brought in two kudu, and a springbok, so that they -have plenty to eat. I was much amused to see how the slothful ugly -Soudanese stared at the mad antics of the Zanzibaris, with the sort -of expression that said, What sort of people can these boisterous, -unruly Zanzibaris be?<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_147" id="page_147"></a>{147}</span></p> - -<p>I find Casati more impossible than ever. I asked him whether he -would go with us to-morrow, and he replied he would rather wait. I -then asked, “How many loads have you?”</p> - -<p>“Oh,” he answered, “you know I have very few things. All my things -were taken by Kabba-Rega; perhaps I may want eighty carriers.”</p> - -<p>Vita, the apothecary, wants forty carriers, and Marco, the Greek -trader, wants sixty, so at this rate our Zanzibaris will be killed -between here and Kavalli’s. The Pasha remonstrated with Casati for -taking all his grinding-stones, earthen jars, bedsteads for his -boys and women, &c., upon which he said:—</p> - -<p>“Mr. Stanley has offered to take all our loads.”</p> - -<p>These people have no conscience, and would rather load down our -long-suffering people than throw away a single load of rubbish -which they will eventually be obliged to discard.</p> - -<p>Casati, so the Pasha tells me, was averse to their leaving Tunguru, -in spite of Shukri Aga’s offer of carriers, and my urgent letter, -and did all he could to prevent his coming down here, as he -considered it “impolitic.” One internally fumes at the selfishness -of these people, and at their inability or aversion from seeing -things as they really are.</p> - -<p>The rumour of the “white man’s” expedition to Fallibeg has turned -out to be, as Clerk Jopson says, “all a bam,” and nothing more has -been heard of it.</p> - -<p>Casati refuses to move until he has sufficient carriers to take him -and all his goods away together. The Pasha is very irritated about -it.</p> - -<p>The boat (<i>Advance</i>) has been very well mended with bolts just like -our own. I am going on board the steamer this evening to get some -spanners, and, if possible, some spare bolts. The Pasha has also -brought the light oars, which belonged to Gordon’s india-rubber -boat, so that we have now the full complement.</p> - -<p>The Pasha, Casati, and the officers desire me to send you their -greetings.</p> - -<p class="r"> -I am, &c., &c., &c.,<br /> -<span class="smcap">A. J. Mounteney Jephson</span>.<br /> -</p> - -</div> - -<p>The Pasha, 200 loads! Casati, who has lost everything, eighty loads! -Vita, the apothecary, forty loads! Marco, the Greek, sixty loads! = 380 -loads for four persons! True, I promised to convey everything up to the -Plateau Camp but grinding stones! Well, if I gave such a promise, we -must keep it, I suppose. However, there is no harm in Mr. Jephson fuming -a little.</p> - -<p>From the Pasha the following note was received:—</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="nind"> -<span class="smcap">Dear Sir</span>,—<br /> -</p> - -<p>Mr. Jephson with your people have arrived yesterday, and we propose -to start to-morrow morning; I shall therefore have the pleasure to -see you the day after to-morrow. My men are very anxious to hear -from your own lips that their foolish behaviour in the past will -not prevent you from guiding them.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_148" id="page_148"></a>{148}</span></p> - -<p>I am greatly obliged for your kindly letter,<a name="FNanchor_7_7" id="FNanchor_7_7"></a><a href="#Footnote_7_7" class="fnanchor">[7]</a> handed to me by Mr. -Jephson, and I hope that my being somewhat African in my moods may -not interfere with our friendly relations.</p> - -<p class="r"> -Agree, dear Sir, my best wishes, and believe me to be,<br /> -Yours very faithfully,<br /> -Dr. <span class="smcap">Emin</span>.<br /> -</p> - -</div> - -<p><i>February 17th</i>.—Emin Pasha’s caravan, consisting of about sixty-five -persons, reached this camp about noon. The officers, who are a -deputation from the revolted troops at Wadelai, are headed by Selim -Bey—promoted to Bey by the Pasha. He is six feet high, large of girth, -about fifty years old, black as coal: I am rather inclined to like him. -The malignant and deadly conspirator is always lean. I read in this -man’s face, indolence, a tendency to pet his animalism. He is a man to -be led, not to conspire. Feed him with good things to eat, and plenty to -drink, Selim Bey would be faithful. Ah, the sleepy eye of the -full-stomached man! This is a man to eat, and sleep, and snore, and play -the sluggard in bed, to dawdle slip-shod in the bed-chamber, to call for -coffee fifty times a day, and native beer by the gallon; to sip and sip -and smile and then to sleep again; and so and so to his grave. The -others are lean, of Cassius’ make. Three of them were Egyptians, -something of Arabi in their facial mould; the others are black -Soudanese.</p> - -<p>We made a grand display outside the camp, banners waving, the Zanzibari -veterans like a wall of iron on each side of the pathway, the Manyuema -auxiliaries with a rough-and-ready look about them, the natives of -Kavalli and the neighbourhood in hundreds, banking the formation.</p> - -<p>Through the centre of the twin lines the Pasha, small and wiry of -figure, like a Professor of Jurisprudence in appearance, despite his fez -and white clothes, was escorted to the great square of the camp, and -straight to the Barzah.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_149" id="page_149"></a>{149}</span></p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill-148_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/ill-148_sml.jpg" width="490" height="356" alt="ADDRESS TO REBEL OFFICERS AT KAVALLI." -title="ADDRESS TO REBEL OFFICERS AT KAVALLI." /></a><br /> -<span class="caption">ADDRESS TO REBEL OFFICERS AT KAVALLI.</span> -</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_150" id="page_150"></a>{150}</span><a name="page_151" id="page_151"></a></p> - -<p>The officers, in brand new uniforms, rarely aired, evidently created a -great sensation. The natives hungrily looked at them, and looked with -gaping lips and projected eyes.</p> - -<p>At the Barzah house, the Pasha formally introduced these officers. We -mutually saluted. We enquired anxiously about each other’s healths, and -expressed ourselves mutually gratified that there was no fear of -consumption, diabetes, or dysentery troubling us, and that possibly, -without fear of these ailments, we might meet on the morrow at a grand -divan, whereat each one would be pleased to express his heart’s secret -desire.</p> - -<p><i>February 18th.</i>—The grand divan was held to-day. Each person present -was arrayed in his best uniform. After an interchange of elegant -compliments and coffee had been served, the Pasha was requested to be -good enough to enquire of the deputation if they would be pleased to -state their errand, or whether they would prefer that I should disclose -the object of this gathering from twenty lands near the shores of their -Lake.</p> - -<p>They expressed through the Pasha, who is admirable as a translator, and -who has the art of softening any rigour of speech that a plain -Anglo-Saxon might naturally use, that they would be greatly gratified to -hear me first.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />Feb. 18.<br />Kavalli’s.</div> - -<p>Well, I said, open your ears that the words of truth may enter. The -English people, hearing from your late guest, Dr. Junker, that you were -in sore distress here, and sadly in need of ammunition to defend -yourselves against the infidels and the followers of the false prophet, -have collected money, which they entrusted to me to purchase ammunition, -and to convey it to you for your needs. But as I was going through -Egypt, the Khedive asked me to say to you, if you so desired you might -accompany us, but that if you elected to stay here, you were free to act -as you thought best; if you chose the latter, he disclaimed all -intention of forcing you in any manner. Therefore you will please -consult your own wishes entirely, and speak whatever lies hidden in your -hearts.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_152" id="page_152"></a>{152}</span></p> - -<p>After the Pasha had translated there was a general murmur of -“Khweis”—good.</p> - -<p>Then Selim Bey, the superior officer, said—</p> - -<p>“The Khedive is most gracious and kind. We are His Highness’s most -devoted and loyal subjects. We cannot wish to stay here. We hail from -Cairo, and we desire nothing better than to visit the land of our -breeding again. Far be it from us to wish to stay here. What gain can be -obtained here? We are officers and soldiers of His Highness. He has but -to command, and we will obey. Those who choose to live among the pagans -here will do so. If they are left behind, it is their own fault. We have -been deputed by our brothers and friends at Wadelai to ask you to give -us only time to embark our families, so that we may assemble together in -your camp, and start for home.”</p> - -<p>They then produced the following document, the translation of which is -as follows:—</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>“To His Excellency the Envoy of our Great Government, Mr. Stanley.</p> - -<p>“When Selim Bey Mator, commander of the troops of this province, -came here and told us of the news of your coming, we were greatly -rejoiced to learn of your safe arrival in this Province, and our -desire to reach our Government has been greatly augmented, and -therefore we hope, with the help of God, to be very soon with you, -and to inform you of this we have written this letter.</p> -</div> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="" - class="tbl"> -<tr><td colspan="3"> </td><td align="right">Wadelai.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Mabruk Shereef,</td><td align="left">Lieutenant. </td><td align="left">Ali el Kurdi,</td><td align="left">Lieutenant.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Noor Abd el bein</td><td align="center">”</td><td align="left">Ahmed Sultan</td><td align="center">”</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Mustapha Ahmed</td><td align="center">”</td><td align="left">Fadl el Mula Bakhit</td><td align="center">”</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Halid Abdallah</td><td align="center">”</td><td align="left">Dais el Bint Abdallah</td><td align="center">”</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Faraj Sid Hamed</td><td align="center">”</td><td align="left">Said Ibrahim</td><td align="center">”</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Mursal Sudan</td><td align="center">”</td><td align="left">Hussein Mohamed,</td><td align="left">Captain.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Murjan Ndeen</td><td align="center">”</td><td align="left">Murjan Idris</td><td align="center">”</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Sabah el Hami</td><td align="center">”</td><td align="left">Mustapha el Adjemi</td><td align="center">”</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Bakhit Mohamed</td><td align="center">”</td><td align="left">Kher Yusuf es Said</td><td align="center">”</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Adeen Ahmed</td><td align="center">”</td><td align="left">Marjan Bakhit</td><td align="center">”</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Ismail Hussein</td><td align="center">”</td><td align="left">Surur Sudan</td><td align="center">”</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Mohamed Abdu</td><td align="center">”</td><td align="left">Abdallah Mauzal</td><td align="center">”</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Halid Majib</td><td align="center">”</td><td align="left">Fadl el Mulla el Emin</td><td align="center">”</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Ahmed Idris</td><td align="center">”</td><td align="left">Ahmed el Dinkani</td><td align="center">”</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Rehan Rashid</td><td align="center">”</td><td align="left">Kadi Ahmed</td><td align="center">”</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Rikas Hamed en Nil</td><td align="center">”</td><td align="left">Said Abd es Sid</td><td align="center">”</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Halil Sid Ahmed</td><td align="center">”</td><td align="left">Bakhit Bergoot,</td><td align="left">Adjutant Major.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Feraj Mohamed</td><td align="center">”</td><td align="left">Bilal Dinkani</td><td align="center">”</td></tr> -</table> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill-152_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/ill-152_sml.jpg" width="555" height="375" alt="DWARFS AND SOUDANESE, WITH OFFICERS." -title="DWARFS AND SOUDANESE, WITH OFFICERS." /></a><br /> -<span class="caption">DWARFS AND SOUDANESE, WITH OFFICERS.</span> -</p> - -<p>I then said: “I have heard with attention what you have spoken. I shall -give you a written promise to the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_154" id="page_154"></a>{154}</span><a name="page_155" id="page_155"></a><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_153" id="page_153"></a>{153}</span> effect that you are granted a -sufficient time to proceed from here to Wadelai to collect your troops -and embark them with your families on board the steamers. It takes five -days for a steamer to proceed to Wadelai, and five days to return. I -shall give you a reasonable time for this work, and if I see that you -are really serious in your intentions, I shall be quite willing to -extend the time in order that we may proceed homeward in comfort.”</p> - -<p>Selim Bey and his officers answered simultaneously, “We are serious in -our intentions, and there is no occasion for delay.” To which I, wholly -convinced, readily assented. The meeting terminated. An ox was presented -to them and their followers for meat rations; and ten gallons of beer, -with loads of sweet potatoes and bananas, were dispatched to their -quarters for their entertainment.</p> - -<p>At noon, Stairs’ column rolled into camp with piles of -wealth—Remington, Maxim and Winchester fixed ammunition, gunpowder, -percussion caps, bales of handkerchiefs, white cottons, blue cutch -cloths, royal striped robes, beads of all colours, coils of bright wire, -&c. &c. There were Zanzibaris, Madis, Lados, Soudanese, Manyuema, -Baregga, Bandusuma, dwarfs and giants; in all, 312 carriers.</p> - -<p>The stay on the Ituri River had benefited the men greatly. As Surgeon -Parke came in, I mentally blessed him, for to this fine display of -convalescents he had largely contributed by his devotion.</p> - -<p>The camp numbers now over 500 people, and the huts extend on each side -of a great open square, 200 yards long by 60 wide. As a fire would be -most destructive, a liberal space is preserved between each hut.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />Feb. 19.<br />Kavalli’s.</div> - -<p><i>February 19th.</i>—I have despatched Mr. William Bonny to the Nyanza with -thirty rifles and sixty-four Bavira natives, to bring up the baggage of -Captain Casati, Signor Marco, the Greek, and Dr. Vita Hassan. I propose -sending at intervals a company of men from our camp (which is on top of -the plateau, 4,800 feet above the sea level) to the Lake shore, which is -about 2,400 above the sea. The journey is a long and tiring<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_156" id="page_156"></a>{156}</span> day’s -march, but the round trip is made within three days. The plateau slope -is very steep and stony. I have vowed not to descend it again for any -idle purpose. I have already been up and down four times; would as soon -undergo shot-drill or the treadmill as undertake it again. Bonny, of -course, will be curious to see the Lake, as this is his first visit.</p> - -<p>Called Selim Bey and his officers to the Barzah house, and delivered to -him my message to the revolted officers at Wadelai.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="nind"><span class="smcap">Salaams</span>!</p> - -<p>The officers, Selim Bey, and others, having requested Mr. Stanley -to await the arrival of their friends from Wadelai, Mr. Stanley -causes his answer to be written down in order to prevent -misunderstanding.</p> - -<p>Mr. Stanley and his officers having been specially sent by the -Khedive as guides to show the road to such people as desired to -leave the Equatorial province for Cairo, cannot do otherwise than -consent to give such reasonable time as may be required for the -assembling of all people willing to depart with him.</p> - -<p>It must, however, be positively understood that all men proposing -to depart with Mr. Stanley must provide their own means of carriage -for themselves, their families, and baggage. No exception can be -made except for the Pasha, Captain Casati, and the Greek merchant -named Marco, the two last being strangers and not in the Egyptian -service.</p> - -<p>Therefore all officers and men proposing to depart from this -country with Mr. Stanley will be careful to provide such animals -and porters as they may need for the transport of their children -and goods.</p> - -<p>They will also be careful not to burden themselves with superfluous -articles; arms, clothing, ammunition, cooking pots, and provisions -being the only necessaries needed.</p> - -<p>The reserve ammunition, which has been brought from Egypt for the -service of the Pasha and his people, is of course at the -disposition of the Pasha only, according to the orders of His -Highness the Khedive.</p> - -<p>Mr. Stanley wishes it to be distinctly understood that he is -responsible only for finding the right road, and for provisioning -all the people according to the nature of the country.</p> - -<p>Mr. Stanley, however, holds himself in honor bound to do all in his -power for the comfort, safety, and welfare of Emin Pasha and his -people, and to assist his friends in all things to the best of his -ability.</p> - -<p>On the arrival of this answer before the officers at Wadelai, the -officers responsible for the direction of the people will do well -to hold a general council, and consider this answer before moving. -Such people as believe in their hearts that they have the courage -and means to depart from the Equatorial Province will prepare to -proceed to this camp as directed by the Pasha. Such people as are -doubtful of their power and ability to move, will act as the -superiors of the party will decide.</p> - -<p>Mr. Stanley, in the meanwhile, will form an advance camp to make -ready for the reception of such people as are going out.</p> - -<p class="c"> -At Kavalli’s, <span class="spc"> </span> <span class="smcap">Henry M. Stanley</span>,<br /> -<i>February 19th, 1889.</i> <span class="spc"> </span> Commanding the Relief Expedition.<br /> -</p></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_157" id="page_157"></a>{157}</span></p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />Feb. 21.<br />Kavalli’s.</div> - -<p><i>February 21st</i>.—Chief Katonza on the Lake shore has been sending -messengers to the Lake camp to inform Captain Casati that Kabba Regga, -King of Unyoro, had seized his cattle on the 19th inst., and that his -next objective was Casati’s camp.</p> - -<p>What followed may be gleaned from the following note just received from -Mr. W. Bonny:—</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>“At the wish of Signor Casati I send you this note. He is writing -his own views to the Pasha. He states that Kabba Regga’s general -has a strong force somewhere near, and wishes me to remain another -day that you may reinforce me. I have agreed to send a messenger, -but decline to remain. I have pointed out to him, that if there is -danger, I cannot risk my men unnecessarily. My men will leave with -the loads this morning. I have endeavoured to persuade Casati that -if he wishes to avoid danger, he can march under our escort to the -Plateau. If Kabba Regga’s people meet me on the road I hope to make -them learn that they have met some of Stanley’s men.</p> - -<p class="r"> -“Yours, &c.,<br /> -“<span class="smcap">W. Bonny</span>.”<br /> -</p> - -</div> - -<p>The native courier arrived with this news at 2 <small>P.M.</small> The Pasha and -officers started immediately for the Lake camp with sixty rifles and -sixty natives of the plateau. I do not think there will be any irruption -of the Wanyoro into territory protected by us, but it is better to be on -the safe side.</p> - -<p><i>February 22nd.</i>—The Greek merchant Signor Marco, a fine manly-looking -man much browned by tropic heat, arrived to-day, escorted by Mr. Bonny. -Marco has an eye to comfort I see. In his train are domestics bearing -parrots, pigeons, bedsteads for himself and harem, heavy Persian -carpets, ox-hide mats and enormous baskets, and, oh horror! he has -actually brought three hundredweight of stone to serve as grinding -stones to reduce his grain to flour, as though the natives here could -not lend us any number of grinding stones. He has brought, besides, ten -gallon pots to make beer, and to use as water vessels. If all the -refugees are similarly encumbered, we shall, I fear, be employed here -for months. That was a rash promise of mine to convey all their -property. I will wait a little to note if all the officers, clerks, and -soldiers expect me to regard stone as baggage.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_158" id="page_158"></a>{158}</span></p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />Feb. 23.<br />Kavalli’s.</div> - -<p><i>Feb. 23rd.</i>—One of our Zanzibaris named Mrima, impatient at the slow -progress towards recovery from a large and painful ulcer, shot himself -with a Remington rifle to-day. Poor fellow, I remember him as a cheery, -willing, and quick boy.</p> - -<p>The Pasha writes me that all is well at the Lake camp.</p> - -<p><i>Feb. 24th.</i>—Sent twenty-five rifles, under headman Wadi Khamis, to -escort fifty of Mpinga’s natives as carriers.</p> - -<p>I have notified all the chiefs of the various tribes on the plateau that -they must supply carriers varying from fifty to one hundred each, -according to their strength, to assist me in the transport of the -baggage of our guests. Eleven have consented to proceed to the Lake in -rotation, provided I protect their people from the brutality of the -strangers, who, they say, have been beating their people in the most -cruel manner, and making them carry “stones” of too heavy a weight for a -man. This is the first time I have heard of this, and will make -inquiries immediately.</p> - -<p><i>Feb. 25th.</i>—Captain Nelson, who escorted the Pasha to the Lake the -other day, brought in sixty loads of baggage, mostly belonging to the -Pasha. I observe an immense number of articles that must necessarily be -thrown away. There is an old Saratoga trunk, which was borne by two men. -I tried to lift one end of it, and from its weight I should say it -contains stones or treasure. What a story that old trunk could tell -since it left Cairo. How many poor natives has it killed? How much -anguish has it caused? The Zanzibaris smile grimly at the preposterously -large size of the boxes they have to carry. They declare there are -thousands of such cumbrous articles yet, and that they will be kept here -for ten years. The square is littered with sea-chests and clumsy -coffin-like coffers, the ten-gallon jars increase in number, and the -baskets look bigger and ominously heavy.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />Feb. 25.<br />Kavalli’s.</div> - -<p>One man, an Egyptian, named Achmet Effendi, who came up, is about -fifty-five years old, bent, thin, feeble,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_159" id="page_159"></a>{159}</span> and sick. He is unable to -ride a donkey without assistance.</p> - -<p>I foresee a terrible mortality, if only sick and feeble men and women -propose to undertake the 1,400 miles journey to the sea. Already a large -number of small children, from one to eight years old, have arrived. -These will have to be carried. By whom?</p> - -<p>A Soudanese woman gave birth to a child on the road. Another child is so -ill that it cannot survive long.</p> - -<p>Lieut. Stairs was despatched with Chief Mwité to stir up his refractory -people, who for the last four days have sent us no food.</p> - -<p>We have formed a confederacy on the plateau, embracing all the region -from the Ituri River to the Nyanza. For protection granted them against -marauding Balegga of the mountains and the Warasura Kabba Rega, the -chiefs agree to supply us with contributions of grain and cattle, and to -surrender the government of the country into my hands, to raise fighting -men whenever ordered, and to assist me in invading Unyoro should -retaliation for invasion of their soil by the Warasura render it -necessary.</p> - -<p><i>Feb. 26th.</i>—An ally of Kabba Rega was attacked this morning, and 125 -head of cattle were captured. Much mischief has been done by this man, -and already he occupies the country between here and the Pasha’s -province, and Kabba Rega relied on him for assistance when the grand -struggle between him and the Pasha should begin. Communication is made -across the Lake in canoes, and Kabba Rega is well informed of our -movements. When we retire from here we shall have to reckon with Kabba -Rega. He possesses 1,500 guns; mostly rifles and double-barrelled shot -guns, Jocelyn and Starr, Sharp, Henry-Martini, and Snider rifles, and -carbines. Having undertaken the serious work of protecting these -hundreds of refugees to the sea, I shall enter on the affair with a -clear conscience. We will not seek a struggle; the opposing forces are -not matched, but there is only one road, and that runs through a portion -of Unyoro.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_160" id="page_160"></a>{160}</span></p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />Feb. 27.<br />Kavalli’s.</div> - -<p><i>Feb. 27th</i>.—Our cattle were driven to pasture this morning, but the -calves were most intractable, and created great fun and not a little -trouble. We have milk and meat for our sick now.</p> - -<p>I hear that Selim Bey and the Egyptian officers departed on the 26th -inst. by the steamers <i>Khedive</i> and <i>Nyanza</i>, which brought to the Lake -camp from Mswa a large cargo of baggage and several score of fresh -refugees.</p> - -<p>Emin Pasha reached camp this morning from the Lake. He was accompanied -by his daughter, a little girl of six years old, named Ferida, the -offspring of an Abyssinian woman. She is extremely pretty, with large, -beautiful black eyes.</p> - -<p>104 carriers conveyed the Pasha’s luggage and stores of flour, millet, -sesamum, honey, and salt.</p> - -<p>The head man, Wadi Khamis, who escorted this caravan, reports that one -of Selim Bey’s officers stole a Remington rifle and took it with him. -This is odd. If these people meditate returning here they should be -aware that theft of arms is severely punished.</p> - -<p>The Pasha informs me that another mail arrived from Wadelai on the 25th, -and that an official letter was handed to Selim Bey from the rebel -officers headed by Fadl-el-Mulla, announcing to him that he was deposed -from his position as Chief Commander of the Troops, and that he, the -Pasha and Casati, were sentenced to death by court-martial. Captain -Fadl-el-Mulla has promoted himself on assuming authority to the rank of -Bey or Colonel. This is quite in Jack Cade’s style. We must now call him -Fadl-el-Mulla Bey.</p> - -<p><i>Feb. 28th</i>.—Sent fifty rifles and seventy-two natives of the Wabiaasi -and Ruguji tribes under Lieut. Stairs to the Lake camp to escort another -contingent of refugees and convey baggage up to the plateau.</p> - -<p><i>March 1st</i>.—The Pasha, with his own consent, and indeed on his own -proposal, has been appointed naturalist and meteorologist to the -Expedition. He has accordingly received one aneroid, one max. and min. -thermometer, one Bath thermometer, one standard<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_161" id="page_161"></a>{161}</span> thermometer, two -boiling-point thermometers, which, added to his own instruments, equip -him completely. No expedition could be so well served as ours will be. -He is the most industrious and exact observer that I know.<a name="FNanchor_8_8" id="FNanchor_8_8"></a><a href="#Footnote_8_8" class="fnanchor">[8]</a></p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />March 1.<br />Kavalli’s.</div> - -<p>The Pasha is in his proper element as naturalist and meteorologist. He -is of the school of Schweinfurth and Holub. His love of science borders -on fanaticism. I have attempted to discover during our daily chats -whether he was Christian or Moslem, Jew or Pagan, and I rather suspect -that he is nothing more than a Materialist. Who can say why votaries of -science, though eminently kindly in their social relations, are so -angular of character? In my analysis of the scientific nature I am -constrained to associate with it, as compared with that of men who are -more Christians than scientists, a certain hardness, or rather -indelicacy of feeling. They strike me as being somewhat unsympathetic, -and capable of only cold friendship, coolly indifferent to the warmer -human feelings. I may best express what I mean by saying that I think -they are more apt to feel an affection for one’s bleached skull and -frame of unsightly bones, than for what is divine within a man. If one -talks about the inner beauty, which to some of us is the only beauty -worth anything, they are apt to yawn, and to return an apologetic and -compassionate smile. They seem to wish you to infer that they have -explored the body through and through, and that it is waste of time to -discuss what only exists in the imagination.</p> - -<p>Sent seventy-two natives of Mpigwa’s tribe under twelve Zanzibaris to -Lake camp for baggage.</p> - -<p>Up to date 514 loads of baggage have been conveyed from the Lake shore -to our camp on the plateau.</p> - -<p><i>March 2nd</i>.—Dr. Vita Hassan, of Tunis, has arrived in charge of Lieut. -Stairs, with 122 carriers.</p> - -<p><i>March 3rd</i>.—Mr. Bonny descended to the Nyanza to-day with fifty-two -Zanzibaris and forty natives of the tribe of Malai and Mabisé.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_162" id="page_162"></a>{162}</span></p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />March 3.<br />Kavalli’s.</div> - -<p>I went over the camp on an inspection. I find that we have here -representatives of Germany, Greece, Tunis, England, Ireland, Italy, -America, Egypt, Nubia, Madiland, Monbuttu, Langgo, Bari, Shuli, -Zanzibar, Usagara, Useguhha, Udoé, Unyamwezi, Uganda, Unyoro, Bavira, -Wahuma, Marungu, Manyuema, Basoko, Usongora, Congo, Arabia, Johanna, -Comoro, Madagascar, Somali, Circassia, Turkey!!! besides pigmies from -the Great Forest, and giants from the Blue Nile.</p> - -<p>The camp is rapidly spreading out into a town. Order is maintained -without any trouble. Eighty gallons of milk are served out daily to the -sick, and six pounds of beef per week per man, besides flour, sweet -potatoes, peas, beans, and bananas with liberal measure.</p> - -<p>There must be a fearful consumption of food in the Soudanese camp if one -may judge from the quantity of flour that is being ground. From the -early morning until late in the afternoon the sound of the grinding -stones and the sweet voices of the grinders are heard.</p> - -<p>The tribe of Mpigwa arrived with seventy loads from the Lake shore. -These came up with Capt. Casati, to whom the baggage belongs.</p> - -<p><i>March 5th</i>.—Mr. Bonny appeared this morning with ninety-four loads of -luggage from below. He was accompanied by the Major of the 2nd -Battalion, Awash Effendi. I am told all this monstrous pile belongs to -him alone. Ninety-four loads represent a weight of 2⅓ tons.</p> - -<p>Mr. Mounteney Jephson started for the Nyanza this morning with forty-two -Zanzibaris and Manyuema.</p> - -<p>During the six weeks we have been here three men and a baby have died.</p> - -<p>This Expedition possesses the rarest doctor in the world. No country in -Europe can produce his equal in my opinion. There may be many more -learned perhaps, more skilful, older, or younger, as the case may be, -but the best of them have something to learn from our doctor. He is such -a combination of sweetness and simplicity. So unostentatious, so -genuinely unobtrusive. We are all bound to him with cords of love. We -have seen him do so much out of pure love for his<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_163" id="page_163"></a>{163}</span> “cases,” that human -nature becomes ennobled by this gem. He is tenderness itself. He has -saved many lives by his devoted nursing. We see him each day at 8 <small>A.M.</small>. -and 5 <small>P.M.</small> with his selectest circle of “sick” around him. None with -tender stomach dare approach it. He sits in the centre as though it were -a rare perfume. The sloughing ulcers are exposed to view, some fearful -to behold, and presenting a spectacle of horror. The doctor smiles and -sweetly sniffs the tainted air, handles the swollen limbs, cleanses them -from impurity, pours the soothing lotion, cheers the sufferers, binds up -the painful wounds, and sends the patient away with a hopeful and -gratified look. May the kindly angels record this nobleness and -obliterate all else. I greatly honour what is divine in man. This gift -of gentleness and exquisite sensibility appeal to the dullest. At -Abu-Klea our doctor was great; the wounded had cause to bless him; on -the green sward of Kavalli, daily ministering to these suffering blacks, -unknowing and unheeding whether any regarded him, our doctor was greater -still.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />March 5.<br />Kavalli’s.</div> - -<p><i>March 6th</i>.—Some chimpanzees have been discovered in a grove which -fills a deep hollow in the Baregga Hills. The Pasha has shown me a -carefully prepared skull of one which he procured near Mswa. It exactly -resembles one I picked up at Addiguhha, a village between the two -branches of the Ihuru River. The chimpanzee is the “soko” of -Livingstone, though he grows to an unusual size in the Congo forest.</p> - -<p>During the few days we have been here the Pasha has been indefatigable -in adding to his collection of birds, larks, thrushes, finches, -bee-eaters, plantain eaters, sunbirds, &c., &c.</p> - -<p>The Pasha appears to be extraordinarily happy in this vocation of -“collecting.” I have ordered the Zanzibaris to carry every strange -insect, bird, and reptile to him. Even vermin do not appear amiss to -him. We are rewarded by seeing him happy.</p> - -<p>Each morning his clerk Rajab roams around to murder every winged fowl of -the air, and every victim of his<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_164" id="page_164"></a>{164}</span> aim he brings to his master, and then -after lovingly patting the dead object he coolly gives the order to skin -it. By night we see it suspended, with a stuffing of cotton within, to -be in a day or two packed up as a treasure for the British Museum!</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />March 6.<br />Kavalli’s.</div> - -<p>These “collectors” strike me as being a rare race. Schweinfurth boiled -the heads of the slain in Monbuttu once to prepare the skulls for a -Berlin museum. Emin Pasha proposes to do the same should we have a brush -with the Wanyoro. I suggested to him that the idea was shocking; that -possibly the Zanzibaris might object to it. He smiled: “All for -science.”</p> - -<p>This trait in the scientific man casts some light upon a mystery. I have -been attempting to discover the reasons why we two, he and I, differ in -our judgments of his men. We have some dwarfs in the camp. The Pasha -wished to measure their skulls; I devoted my observations to their inner -nature. He proceeded to fold his tape round the circumference of the -chest; I wished to study the face. The Pasha wondered at the feel of the -body; I marvelled at the quick play of the feelings as revealed in -lightning movements of the facial muscles. The Pasha admired the breadth -of the frontal bone;<a name="FNanchor_9_9" id="FNanchor_9_9"></a><a href="#Footnote_9_9" class="fnanchor">[9]</a> I<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_166" id="page_166"></a>{166}</span><a name="page_167" id="page_167"></a><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_165" id="page_165"></a>{165}</span> studied the tones of the voice, and watched -how beautifully a slight flash of the eye coincided with the slightest -twitch of a lip. The Pasha might know to a grain what the body of the -pigmy weighed, but I only cared to know what the inner capacity was.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill-164_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/ill-164_sml.jpg" width="549" height="365" alt="THE PYGMIES UNDER THE LENS, AS COMPARED TO CAPTAIN CASATI’S SERVANT OKILI." -title="THE PYGMIES UNDER THE LENS, AS COMPARED TO CAPTAIN CASATI’S SERVANT OKILI." /></a><br /> -<span class="caption">THE PYGMIES UNDER THE LENS, AS COMPARED TO CAPTAIN -CASATI’S SERVANT OKILI.</span> -</p> - -<p>And this is the reason the Pasha and I differ about the characters of -his men. He knows their names, their families, their tribes, their -customs; and little as I have been with them, I think I know their -natures. The Pasha says they are faithful; I declare they are false. He -believes that the day he leaves Kavalli they will all follow him to a -man; I imagine he will be wofully deceived. He argues that he has known -them for thirteen years, and he ought to know better than I who have not -known them as many weeks. Very well, let it be so. Time will decide. -Nevertheless, these discussions make the days at Kavalli pass smoothly, -for the Pasha is an accomplished conversationalist.</p> - -<p><i>March 7th</i>.—Mr. Mounteney Jephson arrived from the Lake shore with -Mohammed Emin and family, an Egyptian widow, and four orphan children.</p> - -<p>Surgeon Parke was permitted a holiday, to be devoted to leading to the -Nyanza fifty-two Zanzibaris, thirty natives, and nineteen Manyuema for -conveyance of luggage here.</p> - -<p><i>March 8th</i>.—Uledi, the hero of old days, was despatched with -twenty-one carriers to carry loads from the Lake to this camp.</p> - -<p><i>March 9th</i>.—Surgeon Parke has returned with his caravan. “Well, -doctor,” said I, “how did you like your holiday?” He smiled. “It may be -agreeable as a change, but it is fearful work. I see that the best men -are pulled down by that steep long climb up the plateau slope. I hear a -great deal of grumbling.”</p> - -<p>“I am aware,” I replied, “of what is going on. But what can we do? These -people are our guests. We are bound to help them as much as possible. We -indeed came here for that purpose. I wish, however, they would leave -those stones behind, for even the carriers laugh at the absurd idea of -carrying an 80lb. rock such<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_168" id="page_168"></a>{168}</span> a fearful height. However, when the -Zanzibaris are tired of it, they will let me know in some way. Meantime, -let us see to how far a point they will push our patience.”</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />March 9.<br />Kavalli’s.</div> - -<p><i>March 10th</i>.—This morning as the Zanzibaris mustered for the detail to -be picked out for the usual caravan to the Nyanza, they demanded to -speak to me. The speaker was applauded every few minutes by the -companies as they stood under their respective officers.</p> - -<p>“Sir,” said he, “we are tired of this work of carrying rocks, and great -double-load boxes, and wooden bedsteads. If we did not think it were a -waste of labour we would not speak. Whither can they take the rubbish we -have been obliged to carry up here? Will any one man undertake to carry -one of those huge coffins a day’s march through the bush? The strongest -man in the world would be killed under it. For whom are we doing it? For -a set of thankless, heartless people, who profess God with their lips, -and know nothing of Him or of the prophet Mohammed—blessed be his name! -Besides, what do they think of us? They call us <i>abid</i>—slaves. They -think that any one of them can lick ten of us. They say that some day -they will take our rifles from us, and make us their slaves. We know -enough Arabic to know what they mean, bad as their slang Arabic is. We -have come to ask you how long this is to last? If you mean to kill us, -who were saved out of the forest, with this ungrateful work, please tell -us. We are your servants, and we must do your bidding.”</p> - -<p>“It is well,” I replied. “I have heard your speech. I knew you would -come to this. But you must have some faith in me. Trust to me. Go on to -the Nyanza to-day, and when you return I will explain further.”</p> - -<p>Captain Nelson was appointed leader of the caravan of 81 Zanzibaris, -Soudanese, and Manyuema, and marched away with them.</p> - -<p>I observed that the people declined their rations for the journey, and -that they were unmistakably discontented and in an evil mood. Fearing -trouble, I sent messengers after Captain Nelson to send me the two who<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_169" id="page_169"></a>{169}</span> -seemed to be the principals under guard back to camp. The Captain on -receipt of the order commanded the Soudanese to take them, upon which -the fifty Zanzibaris set up a loud yell of defiance, and some cried, -“Shoot them all, and let us go to Mazamboni.”</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />March 10.<br />Kavalli’s.</div> - -<p>The Captain, however, was firm, and insisted on sending them to me, -whereupon they said they would all return to camp to protect their -friends.</p> - -<p>Seeing the caravan return, the signal to muster under arms was given, -and the companies were drawn up in position to prevent any sudden -manœuvre.</p> - -<p>The malcontents were formed in line in the centre, and on looking at -them I saw that little was needed to provoke strife. I sympathised with -them secretly, but could not overlook such a serious breach of -discipline.</p> - -<p>“Now, my men,” I said, “obey me at once, and to the letter. He who -hesitates is lost. Open your ears and be sharp. ‘Ground arms!’ It was -done promptly. ‘Retire four paces to the rear!’ They withdrew quietly. -‘Now, Captain Stairs, march your company to the front, and take -possession of the rifles,” which was done.</p> - -<p>Captain Nelson was then ordered to make his report as to the cause of -the caravan’s return. He pointed out the ringleaders concerned in the -outbreak, and those who had cried, “Shoot them all, and let us run to -Mazamboni.” These were at once seized and punished. The ringleaders were -tied to the flag-staff. The caravan was again entrusted to Captain -Nelson, but without arms, and was marched away to its duty.</p> - -<p>Near sunset, Hassan Bakari having absented himself without permission, -was lightly punished with a cane by the captain of his company. On being -released, he rushed in a furious temper to his hut, vowing he would -shoot himself. He was caught in the act of preparing his rifle for the -deed. Five men were required to restrain him. Hearing the news, I -proceeded to the scene, and gently asked the reason of this outburst. He -declaimed against the shame which had been put on him, as he was a -freeman of good family and was not accustomed to be struck like a slave. -Remarks appropriate<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_170" id="page_170"></a>{170}</span> to his wounded feelings were addressed to him, to -which he gratefully responded. His rifle was restored to him with a -smile. He did not use it.</p> - -<p><i>March 11th</i>.—Forty-one natives descended to the Nyanza to-day for more -baggage. These make a total of 928 men sent down for the same purpose up -to date.</p> - -<p><i>March 12th</i>.—“Three O’clock,” the hunter, took a caravan to the -Nyanza, consisting of thirty-four Zanzibaris and twenty-five natives.</p> - -<p><i>March 13th</i>.—Lieut. Stairs, R.E., took down to the Lake sixty-three -Zanzibaris and Manyuema.</p> - -<p>The forty-one natives who left on the 11th inst. returned to-day, -bringing with them absolute rubbish—wooden bedsteads, twenty gallon -copper pots, and some more flat rocks, which the Soudanese call -grinding-stones. They complained that when they objected to carry these -heavy, useless weights they were cruelly beaten.</p> - -<p>As I have informed the Pasha several times that I cannot allow such -rubbish to be carried, and as the Pasha has written to that effect to -Osman Latif Effendi, the commander of the Lake shore camp, and his -orders are not obeyed, I shall presently have to stop this cruel work.</p> - -<p><i>March 14th</i>.—Twenty-one of the Balegga have offered their services, -and have been sent down to the Lake to carry baggage. Total loads up to -date, 1,037.</p> - -<p>I consider this carrier work to which I have subjected myself, officers, -and men, as an essential part of my duty to my guests. They may not be -deserving of this sacrifice on our part, but that makes no difference. -What I regret is that such severe labour should be incurred uselessly. -If any one of them were to express a concern that we were put to so much -trouble, most of us would regard it as some compensation. But I have -heard nothing which would lead me to believe that they regard this -assistance as anything more than their due.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill-170_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/ill-170_sml.jpg" width="348" height="501" alt="CLIMBING THE PLATEAU-SLOPES." -title="CLIMBING THE PLATEAU-SLOPES." /></a><br /> -<span class="caption">CLIMBING THE PLATEAU-SLOPES.</span> -</p> - -<p>I see the Egyptian officers congregating in special and select groups -each day, seated on their mats, smoking cigarettes, and discussing our -absolute slavishness. They<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_172" id="page_172"></a>{172}</span><a name="page_173" id="page_173"></a><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_171" id="page_171"></a>{171}</span> have an idea that any one of them is -better than ten Zanzibaris, but I have not seen any ten of them that -could be so useful in Africa as one Zanzibari.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />March 14.<br />Kavalli’s.</div> - -<p><i>March 15th</i>.—Lieut. Stairs appeared with his caravan to-day. He -reports that there are 100 people still at the Nyanza Camp, with an -immense pile of baggage of the usual useless kind just arrived from Mswa -station.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill-173_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/ill-173_sml.jpg" width="214" height="350" alt="SHUKRI AGHA, COMMANDANT OF MSWA STATION." -title="SHUKRI AGHA, COMMANDANT OF MSWA STATION." /></a><br /> -<span class="caption">SHUKRI AGHA, COMMANDANT OF MSWA STATION.</span> -</p> - -<p>Shukri Agha, commandant of Mswa, has also arrived. At an interview with -him, in the presence of the Pasha, I informed him in plain terms that if -he expected to retire to the coast he would have to set about it -immediately. I told him that I had been amazed at many things since my -arrival the third time at the Lake, but<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_174" id="page_174"></a>{174}</span> the most wonderful thing of all -was the utter disregard to instructions and orders manifested by -everybody. In May last, ten months ago, they had all been informed of -the cause of our coming. They had promised to be ready, and now he, -Shukri Agha, had come to us to ask us for instructions, just as though -he had never heard anything of the matter. If he, a commandant of a -station, and commander of troops, appeared to be so slow to comprehend, -how ever was it possible to convey it into the sense of the Soudanese -soldier. All I had to say now was, that unless he, Shukri Agha, paid -attention to what I said, he would be left behind to take the -consequences.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />March 15.<br />Kavalli’s.</div> - -<p>“Ah,” says Shukri, “I will go back to Mswa, and the very next day I -shall embark the women and children on the steamers, and I shall march -with our cattle through Melindwa overland, and we shall all be here in -seven days.”</p> - -<p>“I shall expect you on the tenth day from this, with your families, -soldiers, and cattle.”</p> - -<p>The Pasha said to me in the evening, “Shukri Agha has given me his -solemn promise that he will obey the orders I have given him to depart -from Mswa at once.”</p> - -<p>“Did you write them firmly, Pasha, in such a manner that there can be no -doubt!”</p> - -<p>“Surely, I did so.”</p> - -<p>“Do you think he will obey them?”</p> - -<p>“Most certainly. What, Shukri Agha! He will be here in ten days without -fail, and all his soldiers with him.”</p> - -<p><i>March 16th</i>.—Shukri Agha descended to the Nyanza to-day; also 108 -carriers, natives, for baggage.</p> - -<p><i>March 17th</i>.—Twenty-nine natives of Malai’s tribe, and sixteen natives -of Bugombi, have been sent to the Nyanza Camp. Total, 1,190 carriers up -to date.</p> - -<p>The Pasha proceeded this morning to the Baregga Hills for a picnic, and -to increase his ornithological and entomological collections. A goat was -taken up also to be slaughtered for the lunch. Lieut. Stairs, Mr. -Jephson, Captain Nelson, Surgeon Parke, and Mr. Bonny have<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_175" id="page_175"></a>{175}</span> gone up with -quite a following to encourage him to do his best and keep him company.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />March 17.<br />Kavalli’s.</div> - -<p>Yesterday Jephson and I had examined the summits of the hills, and in -one of the hollows we had discovered tree ferns, standing eight feet -high, with stalks eight inches in diameter. We also brought with us a -few purple flowering heliotropes, aloes, and rock ferns for the Pasha. -All this has inspired him with a desire to investigate the flora for -himself.</p> - -<p>These hills have an altitude varying from 5,400 to 5,600 feet above the -sea. The folds and hollows between these hills are here and there -somewhat picturesque, though on account of late grass burnings they are -not at their best just now. Each of the hollows has its own clear water -rillet, and along their courses are bamboos, tree ferns, small palms, -and bush, much of which is in flower. From the lively singing of the -birds I heard yesterday, it was thought likely this insatiable collector -might be able to add to his store of stuffed giant-larks, thrushes, -bee-eaters, sun-birds, large pigeons, &c. Only four specimens were -obtained, and the Pasha is not happy.</p> - -<p>In a bowl-like basin, rimmed around by rugged and bare rocks, I saw a -level terrace a mile and a half long by a mile wide, green as a tennis -lawn. Round about the foot of this terrace ran a clear rivulet, through -a thick bank of woods, the tops of which just came to the level of the -terrace. It has been the nicest site for a mission or a community of -white men that I have seen for a long time. The altitude was 5,500 feet -above the sea. From the crest of the rocky hills encircling it we may -obtain a view covering 3,000 square miles of one of the most gloriously -beautiful lands in the world. Pisgah, sixty miles westward, dominates -all eminences and ridges in the direction of the forest world; -Ruwenzori, 18,000 to 19,000, white with perpetual snow, eighty miles -off, bounds the view south; to the east the eye looks far over the -country of Unyoro; and north-east lies the length of the Albert Nyanza. -On the terrace the picnic was held.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_176" id="page_176"></a>{176}</span></p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />March 18.<br />Kavalli’s.</div> - -<p><i>March 18th</i>.—The redoubtable Rudimi, chief of Usiri, has at last -joined our confederacy. Besides seven head of cattle, seven goats, and -an ample store of millet flour and sweet potatoes, he brought me -thirty-one carriers. They were immediately sent to the Lake shore camp.</p> - -<p>We can now trust these natives to handle any property unguarded. -Altogether fifteen chiefs have submitted to our stipulation that they -shall cease fighting with one another; that they shall submit all causes -of complaint to us, and agree to our decisions. The result is that the -Wavira shake hands with the Wasiri, the Balegga, and the Wahuma. The -cases are frequently very trivial, but so far our decisions have given -satisfaction.</p> - -<p>The camp now consists of 339 huts and five tents, exclusive of Kavalli’s -village, on the southern side of which our town has grown. There are -sometimes as many as 2,000 people in it.</p> - -<p><i>March 21st</i>.—The natives of Melindwa, having made a descent upon -Ruguji’s, one of our Wahuma allies, and captured forty head of his -cattle, Lieut. Stairs and Mr. Jephson were despatched with Companies 1 -and 2, and returned with 310 head of cattle. Ruguji recognised his -cattle and received them. The Wahuma are all herdsmen and shepherds. The -Wavira devote themselves to agriculture.</p> - -<p><i>March 22nd</i>.—The Pasha, with Mr. Marco, paid a visit to Mpigwa, chief -of Nyamsassi, and were well received, returning with large gifts of -food.</p> - -<p><i>March 23rd</i>.—Contributions of provisions have come in from many chiefs -to-day as an expression of gratitude for the retaliatory raid on -Melindwa.</p> - -<p><i>March 26th</i>.—Yesterday afternoon the steamer <i>Nyanza</i> came in with the -mails from Wadelai, and carriers came in this morning with them.</p> - -<p>Selim Bey writes from Wadelai to the Pasha that he is sure all the -rebels will follow him, and that they may be expected at our camp. The -Pasha, beaming with joy, came to me and imparted this news, and said, -“What<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_177" id="page_177"></a>{177}</span> did I tell you? You see I was right? I was sure they would all -come.”</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />March 26.<br />Kavalli’s.</div> - -<p>Let us see what this good news amounts to.</p> - -<p>Selim Bey left our camp on the 26th February with a promise that I -should wait “a reasonable time.” Though the distance is only five days, -we will give him eight days. He arrives at Wadelai on the 4th March. He -promised solemnly to begin embarking as soon as possible. We will grant -him five days for this, considering that such people have no idea of -time, and eight days for the voyage from Wadelai to our Lake camp. He -should then have arrived on the 17th inst. He has not appeared yet, and -in his letters to the Pasha he only states that his intentions are what -they were on the 26th February last, viz., to start.</p> - -<p>On the 14th of March Shukri Agha, commandant of Mswa, appeared to obtain -instructions from the Pasha, and on the 17th Shukri Agha was back again -at Mswa station, having received an order to abandon that station and to -be here on the 27th. We are now told that Shukri Agha is still at Mswa, -and Selim Bey still at Wadelai, and that every order issued by the Pasha -has been disregarded, and every promise broken.</p> - -<p>I replied to the Pasha that I was only aware of our folly in relying on -any promise made by such people, that neither Selim Bey nor probably -Shukri Agha had any intention of accompanying us anywhere. Days had -passed into weeks, and weeks had grown into months, and years would -doubtless elapse before we should leave Africa.</p> - -<p>“I must beg leave, Pasha, to impress on you that, besides my duty to you -and to your people, I have a duty to perform to the Relief Committee. -Every month I stay in Africa costs about £400. I have a duty to perform -to my officers. They have their careers in the army to think of—their -leave of absence has long ago expired. Then we must think of the -Zanzibaris. They will want to return to their homes; they are already -waxing impatient. If we had only some proof that Selim Bey and his men -had any real intention of leaving<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_178" id="page_178"></a>{178}</span> Africa, and would furnish this proof -by sending a couple of companies of soldiers, and I could see that the -soldiers were under control, there would be no difficulty in staying -some months more. But if you think that from the 1st of May, 1888, to -the end of March, 1889, are eleven months, and that we have been only -able to get about forty officers and clerks and their families, and that -the baggage of these has required all the carriers on this plateau one -month to carry it two days’ march, you will perceive that I have no -reason to share in your joy.</p> - -<p>“I pray you also to remember, that I have been at great pains to get at -the correct state of mind which those officers at Wadelai are in. I have -been told most curious things. Major Awash Effendi, of the 2nd -Battalion, Osman Latif Effendi, Mohamed the engineer, have told me -secretly that neither Selim Bey or Fadl-el-Mulla Bey will leave for -Egypt. The former may perhaps come as far as here and settle in this -district. But whatever the Wadelai officers may profess to be desirous -of doing, I have been warned that I must be on my guard. Nobody places -any faith in them except yourself. While believing that you may perhaps -be right after all, you must admit that I have the best of reasons for -doubting their good intentions. They have revolted three times against -you. They captured Mr. Jephson, and in menacing him with rifles they -insulted me. They have made it known widely enough that they intended to -capture me on my return here. But, Pasha, let me tell you this much: it -is not in the power of all the troops of the province to capture me, and -before they arrive within rifle-shot of this camp, every officer will be -in my power.”</p> - -<p>“But what answer shall I give them?” asked the Pasha.</p> - -<p>“You had better hear it from the officers yourself. Come, without saying -a word to them. I will call them here and ask them in your presence, -because they are involved in the question as much as I am myself.”</p> - -<p>“Very well,” he replied.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_179" id="page_179"></a>{179}</span></p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />March 26.<br />Kavalli’s.</div> - -<p>A messenger was sent to summon the officers, Stairs, Nelson, Jephson, -and Parke, and when they were seated I addressed them:—</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>“Gentlemen,—Before giving me the benefit of your advice at this -important period, let me sum up some facts as they have transpired.</p> - -<p>“Emin Pasha has received a mail from Wadelai. Selim Bey, who left -the post below here on the 26th February last, with a promise that -he would hurry up such people as wished to go to Egypt, writes from -Wadelai that the steamers are engaged in transporting some people -from Dufflé to Wadelai, that the work of transport between Wadelai -and Tunguru will be resumed upon the accomplishment of the other -task. When he went away from here, we were informed that he was -deposed, and that Emin Pasha and he were sentenced to death by the -rebel officers. We now learn that the rebel officers, ten in -number, and all their faction, are desirous of proceeding to Egypt; -we may suppose, therefore, that Selim Bey’s party is in the -ascendant again.</p> - -<p>“Shukri Agha, the chief of the Mswa Station—the station nearest to -us—paid us a visit there in the middle of March. He was informed -on the 16th of March, the day that he departed, that our departure -for Zanzibar would positively begin on the 10th of April. He took -with him urgent letters for Selim Bey, announcing that fact in -unmistakable terms.</p> - -<p>“Eight days later we hear that Shukri Agha is still at Mswa, having -only sent a few women and children to the Nyanza Camp; yet he and -his people might have been here by this if they intended to -accompany us.</p> - -<p>“Thirty days ago Selim Bey left us with a promise of a reasonable -time. The Pasha thought once that twenty days would be a reasonable -time. However, we have extended it to forty-four days. Judging by -the length of time Selim Bey has already taken, only reaching -Tunguru with one-sixteenth of the expected force, I personally am -quite prepared to give the Pasha my decision. For you must know, -gentlemen, that the Pasha having heard from Selim Bey ‘intelligence -so encouraging,’ wishes to know my decision, but I have preferred -to call you to answer for me.</p> - -<p>“You are aware that our instructions were to carry relief to Emin -Pasha, and to escort such as were willing to accompany us to Egypt. -We arrived at the Nyanza, and met Emin Pasha in the latter part of -April, 1888, just twelve months ago. We handed him his letters from -the Khedive and his Government, and also the first instalment of -relief, and asked him whether we were to have the pleasure of his -company to Zanzibar. He replied that his decision depended on that -of his people.</p> - -<p>“This was the first adverse news that we received. Instead of -meeting with a number of people only too anxious to leave Africa, -it was questionable whether there would be any except a few -Egyptian clerks. With Major Barttelot so far distant in the rear, -we could not wait at the Nyanza for his decision, as that might -possibly require months; it would be more profitable to seek and -assist the rear column, and by the time we arrived here again, -those willing to go to Egypt would be probably impatient to start. -We, therefore, leaving Mr. Jephson to convey our message to the -Pasha’s troops, returned to the forest region for the rear column, -and in nine months were back again on the Nyanza. But instead of -discovering a camp of people anxious and ready to depart from -Africa, we found no camp at all, but hear that both the Pasha and -Mr. Jephson are prisoners, that the Pasha has been in imminent -danger of his life from the rebels, and at another time is in -danger of being<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_180" id="page_180"></a>{180}</span> bound on his bedstead and taken to the interior of -Makkaraka country. It has been current talk in the Province that we -were only a party of conspirators and adventurers, that the letters -of the Khedive and Nubar Pasha were forgeries, concocted by the -vile Christians, Stanley and Casati, assisted by Mohammed Emin -Pasha. So elated have the rebels been by their bloodless victory -over the Pasha and Mr. Jephson, that they have confidently boasted -of their purpose to entrap me by cajoling words, and strip our -Expedition of every article belonging to it, and send us adrift -into the wilds to perish. We need not dwell on the ingratitude of -these men, or on their intense ignorance and evil natures, but you -must bear in mind the facts to guide you to a clear decision.</p> - -<p>“We believed when we volunteered for this work that we should be -met with open arms. We were received with indifference, until we -were lead to doubt whether any people wished to depart. My -representative was made a prisoner, menaced with rifles, threats -were freely used. The Pasha was deposed, and for three months was a -close prisoner. I am told this is the third revolt in the Province. -Well, in the face of all this, we have waited nearly twelve months -to obtain the few hundreds of unarmed men, women, and children in -this camp. As I promised Selim Bey and his officers that I would -give a reasonable time, Selim Bey and his officers repeatedly -promised to us there should be no delay. The Pasha has already -fixed April 10th, which extended their time to forty-four days, -sufficient for three round voyages for each steamer. The news -brought to-day is not that Selim Bey is close to here, but that he -has not started from Wadelai yet.</p> - -<p>“In addition to his own friends, who are said to be loyal and -obedient to him, he brings the ten rebel officers, and some six -hundred or seven hundred soldiers, their faction.</p> - -<p>“Remembering the three revolts which these same officers have -inspired, their pronounced intentions against this Expedition, -their plots and counterplots, the life of conspiracy and smiling -treachery they have led, we may well pause to consider what object -principally animates them now—that from being ungovernably -rebellious against all constituted authority, they have suddenly -become obedient and loyal soldiers of the Khedive and his ‘Great -Government.’ You must be aware that, exclusive of the thirty-one -boxes of ammunition delivered to the Pasha by us in May, 1888, the -rebels possess ammunition of the Provincial Government equal to -twenty of our cases. We are bound to credit them with intelligence -enough to perceive that such a small supply would be fired in an -hour’s fighting among so many rifles, and that only a show of -submission and apparent loyalty will ensure a further supply from -us. Though the Pasha brightens up each time he obtains a plausible -letter from these people, strangers like we are may also be -forgiven for not readily trusting those men whom they have such -good cause to mistrust. Could we have some guarantee of good faith, -there could be no objection to delivering to them all they -required: that is, with the permission of the Pasha. Can we be -certain, however, that if we admit them into this camp as good -friends and loyal soldiers of Egypt, they will not rise up some -night and possess themselves of all the ammunition, and so deprive -us of the power of returning to Zanzibar? It would be a very easy -matter for them to do so, after they had acquired the knowledge of -the rules of the camp. With our minds filled with Mr. Jephson’s -extraordinary revelations of what has been going on in the Province -since the closing of the Nile route, beholding the Pasha here -before my very eyes, who was lately supposed to have several -thousands of people under him, but now without any important -following, and bearing in mind the ‘cajoling’ and ‘wiles’ by which -we were to be<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_181" id="page_181"></a>{181}</span> entrapped, I ask you, would we be wise in extending -the time of delay beyond the date fixed, that is, the 10th of -April?”</p></div> - -<p>The officers one after another replied in the negative.</p> - -<p>“There, Pasha,” I said, “you have your answer. We march on the 10th of -April.”</p> - -<p>The Pasha then asked if we could “in our conscience acquit him of having -abandoned his people,” supposing they had not arrived by the 10th of -April. We replied, “Most certainly.”</p> - -<p><i>March 27th</i>.—The couriers have left to embark for Wadelai.</p> - -<p>They bore the following:</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="c"> -Notice to Selim Bey and the Rebel Officers.<br /> -</p> - -<p class="r"> -Camp at Kavalli,<br /> -<i>March 26th</i>, 1889.<br /> -</p> - -<p>“Salaams,—The Commander of the Relief Expedition having promised -to grant a reasonable time for the arrival of such people at this -camp as were desirous to quit the country, notifies Selim Bey and -his brother officers that this is the 30th day since they departed -from the Nyanza Camp for Wadelai to assemble their people.</p> - -<p>“The ‘reasonable time’ promised to them has expired to-day.</p> - -<p>“However, as the Pasha has requested an extension of time, it is -hereby notified to all concerned that the Expedition will make a -further halt at this camp of fourteen days from this date, or, in -other words, that the Expedition will positively commence the march -toward Zanzibar on the morning of the <span class="smcap">Tenth of April</span> next. All -those people not arriving by that date must abide the consequences -of their absence on the day of our departure.</p> - -<p class="r"> -“<span class="smcap">Henry M. Stanley</span>.”<br /> -</p> - -</div> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="c"> -Notice to Shukri Agha, Commanding Mswa.<br /> -</p> - -<p>“The Commander of the Relief Expedition hereby announces to the -good and loyal officer Shukri Agha, that in order to allow him -sufficient time to reach this camp, the Expedition will make a -further halt of fourteen days from this date, at this camp, but -that on the morning of the tenth day of April next, no matter who -or who may not be ready to march on that date, positively no -further delay will be granted.</p> - -<p>“The Commander of the Expedition, out of sincere affection for -Shukri Agha, begs that he will take this last notice into his -earnest consideration, and act accordingly,</p> - -<p class="r"> -“<span class="smcap">Henry M. Stanley</span>.”<br /> -</p> - -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_182" id="page_182"></a>{182}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXVI" id="CHAPTER_XXVI"></a>CHAPTER XXVI.<br /><br /> -<small>WE START HOMEWARD FOR ZANZIBAR.</small></h2> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hangg">False reports of strangers at Mazamboni’s—Some of the Pasha’s -ivory—Osman Latiff Effendi gives me his opinions on the Wadelai -officers—My boy Sali as spy in the camp—Capt. Casati’s views of -Emin’s departure from his province—Lieut. Stairs makes the first -move homeward—Weights of my officers at various places—Ruwenzori -visible—The little girl reared by Casati—I act as mediator -between Mohammed Effendi, his wife, and Emin—Bilal and -Serour—Attempts to steal rifles from the Zanzibari’s huts—We hear -of disorder and distress at Wadelai and Mswa—Two propositions made -to Emin Pasha—Signal for general muster under arms sounded—Emin’s -Arabs are driven to muster by the Zanzibaris—Address to the -Egyptians and Soudanese—Lieut. Stairs brings the Pasha’s servants -into the square—Seroor and three others, being the principal -conspirators, placed under guard—Muster of Emin Pasha’s -followers—Osman Latif Effendi and his mother—Casati and Emin not -on speaking terms—Preparing for the march—Fight with clubs -between the Nubian, Omar, and the Zanzibaris—My judgments on the -combatants—We leave Kavalli for Zanzibar—The number of our -column—Halt in Mazamboni’s territory—I am taken ill with -inflammation of the stomach—Dr. Parke’s skilful nursing—I plan in -my mind the homeward march—Frequent reports to me of plots in the -camp—Lieut. Stairs and forty men capture Rehan and twenty-two -deserters who left with our rifles—At a holding of the court it is -agreed to hang Rehan—Illness of Surgeon Parke and Mr. Jephson—A -packet of letters intended for Wadelai falls into my hands, and -from which we learn of an important plot concocted by Emin’s -officers—Conversation with Emin Pasha about the same—Shukri Agha -arrives in our camp with two followers—Lieut. Stairs buries some -ammunition—We continue our march and camp at -Bunyambiri—Mazamboni’s services and hospitality—Three soldiers -appear with letters from Selim Bey—Their contents—Conversation -with the soldiers—They take a letter to Selim Bey from Emin—Ali -Effendi and his servants accompany the soldiers back to Selim Bey.</p></div> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />March 27.<br />Kavalli’s.</div> - -<p><i>March 27th.</i>—I heard to-day that strangers, supposed to be Zanzibaris, -had arrived at Mazamboni’s. I accordingly despatched Jephson with -forty-three rifles to ascertain the truth of this report, for it may be -Jameson, accompanied by Salim bin Mohamed and people.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_183" id="page_183"></a>{183}</span></p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />March 29.<br />Kavalli’s.</div> - -<p><i>March 29th.</i>—Mr. Jephson returned from Undussuma, bringing fifty-six -native carriers. There were no strangers. It was a false report. Alas! -for Jameson. We all wonder what course he adopted upon receiving my -letters.</p> - -<p><i>March 31st.</i>—Captain Nelson arrived in camp from Lake shore, bringing -132 loads. These bring up the total of loads carried from the Lake shore -to this camp to 1355. I am told there is nothing left except some large -ivories, weighing about 150 pounds each, which we cannot carry. The -Pasha brought with him sixty-five tusks, forty-five of which I proposed -paying to the Manyuema for their services, but they have declined taking -it, as they would prefer the monthly pay paid in goods to them on -arriving at the C. M. S. Mission at Msalala.</p> - -<p>Osman Latif Effendi, the Lieut.-Governor of the Equatorial Province, -came to me this afternoon, and gave me his opinions on the Wadelai -officers. He says: “Selim Bey may join us. He is not a bad man. He is -fond of beer and indolent. If he comes, he will have about 350 soldiers -and officers with him, who form his party. Fadl-el-Mulla Bey is chief of -the opposite party. Since they received news that Khartoum had fallen -they have cast off all allegiance to the Pasha. That was just before Dr. -Junker left. Believing that perhaps they would change their minds upon -hearing of you, Emin Pasha proceeded to see them with Mr. Jephson, and -both were immediately arrested. Fadl-el-Mulla Bey and his clerk are -Mahdists. They hoped to get great honour from the Khalifa for delivering -the Pasha up to them. They have had an idea of getting you to visit -them, and by sweet words and promising everything, to catch you and send -you to Khartoum. If Fadl-el-Mulla Bey comes here with his party, all I -can say is that you must be very careful. I am tired of the land and -wish to go to Cairo. I want nothing to do with them.”</p> - -<p>“What do you think of the people here, Osman Latif?<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_184" id="page_184"></a>{184}</span>”</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />March 31.<br />Kavalli’s.</div> - -<p>“Awash Effendi would not dare to be left behind. As the Major of the 2nd -Battalion he was said to be very severe. They hate him, and would kill -him; almost all the others, if Selim Bey came here, and advised them to -stop, would prefer living here to going with the Pasha. I and Awash -Effendi will follow you. If we died on the road that is the end of it. -We should be sure to die here if we stayed.”</p> - -<p>“Why do they dislike the Pasha?”</p> - -<p>“I do not know, except that Shaitan (the Devil) instigates them. He has -been very just, and good to them all, but the more he allows them to do -as they please the further their hearts are from him. They say, ‘Oh, let -him go on collecting beetles and birds. We don’t want him.’ The Pasha is -very happy when he travels, and is able to collect things, and does not -trouble himself about the men.”</p> - -<p>“Do you think they would have liked him better if he had hanged a few?”</p> - -<p>“Perhaps. God knows.”</p> - -<p>“Do you think you would have liked him better if he had been severe to -you?”</p> - -<p>“No, but I should have been more afraid of him.”</p> - -<p>“Ah! Yes, of course.”</p> - -<p>“But please don’t tell the Pasha I said anything, otherwise he would not -forgive me.”</p> - -<p>“Have no fear. If you hear what is going on in the camp let me know.”</p> - -<p>“Myself and my son are at your service. We shall hear all that goes on, -and will let you know.”</p> - -<p>I saw Osman Latif proceed soon after to the Pasha’s quarters, and kiss -his hands, and bend reverently before him, and immediately I followed, -curious to observe. The Pasha sat gravely on his chair, and delivered -his orders to Osman Latif with the air of power, and Osman Latif bowed -obsequiously after hearing each order, and an innocent stranger might -have imagined that one embodied kingly authority and the other slavish -obedience. Soon after I departed absorbed in my own thoughts.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_185" id="page_185"></a>{185}</span></p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill-185_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/ill-185_sml.jpg" width="213" height="352" alt="SALI, HEAD BOY." -title="SALI, HEAD BOY." /></a><br /> -<span class="caption">SALI, HEAD BOY.</span> -</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />March 31.<br />Kavalli’s.</div> - -<p>Sali, my boy, is the cleverest spy in the camp. How he obtains his -information I do not know. But he appears to know a great deal more than -Osman Latif or Awash Effendi, or any of the young Egyptians. He is in -the counsels of the captains. He is intimate with Mohammed, the -engineer. He is apparently adored by Capt. Ibrahim Effendi Elham, and -his father-in-law, Ali Effendi. Of course he has many subordinate -informers to assist. The Zanzibaris are inveterate traders: they always -possess something to bargain with. During the preliminaries they shuffle -the affairs of the camp, and as they are detailed the traders piece this -and that together<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_186" id="page_186"></a>{186}</span> and pass it over when well digested to Sali, after -which I receive the benefit of it. Much naturally is pure gossip, but on -the whole it amounts to a sum of solid and valuable information.</p> - -<p>I discover that there is a plot to break away completely from the -Pasha’s authority. The number of those actually faithful to-day in camp -is nine. I am told that they know the Pasha is so unsuspecting that they -have but to kiss his hand, and plead forgiveness, and he becomes pliant -to any schemer.</p> - -<p>When a man becomes the jest of such rogues authority is weak indeed.</p> - -<p>Dr. Vita Hassan and Mohammed the engineer say that the Pasha pays great -respect to Captain Casati’s opinion. I consider it is a very natural -thing that he should respect the opinion of the only European who has -been with him between Dr. Junker’s departure and our arrival. When -Casati is inclined to presume upon kindness, Mr. Jephson reports that -the Pasha knows exactly when to assume the governor.</p> - -<p>The Pasha appeared this morning at my tent and informed me that Captain -Casati was not well pleased with his departure from the Equatorial -Province; that he thought it was his duty to stay.</p> - -<p>“Where, Pasha?”</p> - -<p>“With my people.”</p> - -<p>“What people, please?”</p> - -<p>“Why, with my soldiers.”</p> - -<p>“Well now, really, I was under the impression that you wrote me some -time ago, with your own hand, besides endorsing Mr. Jephson’s letter, -that you were a prisoner to your own soldiers, that they had deposed -you, that they had threatened to take you in irons, strapped on your -bedstead, to Khartoum, and I am sure you know as well as I do what that -means.”</p> - -<p>“That is true. But you must not think that I am about to change my mind. -As I said to you, I leave with you on the 10th of April next. That is -settled. I wish, however, you would see Casati about this and talk to -him.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_187" id="page_187"></a>{187}</span>”</p> - -<p>“I should be most happy to do so, but my French is wretched, and his is -still worse.”</p> - -<p>“Oh, if you will send a boy to call me I will come in and be your -interpreter.”</p> - -<p>What we have gleaned of Casati’s character is generally regarded as a -reflection of the Pasha himself. He has not been averse to declaring -that he would prefer Africa to Europe. There is some reason in the Pasha -seeking an excuse to remain here, but I can find none for Casati, though -he has a right to express his preference. But what good purpose can -influence either to stay here now I fail to see. When the Pasha -possessed force he declined the salary of £1500 a year and £12,000 -annual subsidy for the government of his Province: he deferred accepting -a somewhat similar post under British auspices until it was too late. -The proposal to return home was so displeasing to him that he elected to -leave it unanswered until he could learn the wishes of his troops, in -the attempt to ascertain which he was deposed, and imprisoned, and is -now—let us speak the truth—a fugitive from their power.</p> - -<p>But when these two men get together for a social chat, the result is -that the Pasha feels depressed, and vexes himself unnecessarily with -fears that he may be charged by his rebellious troops with deserting -them. Casati feels elated somewhat at having caused these doubts. What -Casati’s object is, more than to secure a companion in misery, is to me -unknown.</p> - -<p>I proceeded to Captain Casati’s quarters, and presently, after an -ineffectual effort to be intelligible to him, sent a boy to request the -Pasha’s good offices. At once Casati commenced to lecture the Pasha in -the name of honour and duty, and to persuade him that he was -<i>moralement</i> wrong in abandoning his troops, referring of course to the -Pasha’s declared intention of leaving with us on the 10th of April.</p> - -<p>“But the Pasha, Captain Casati,” I said, “never had an intention of -abandoning his troops, as no person knows better than you. It is these -troops who have deposed him, and made him a prisoner from August<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_188" id="page_188"></a>{188}</span> 18th -to February 8th, or thereabouts, nearly six months. They have three -times revolted, they have said repeatedly they do not want him, nor will -obey him, and they have threatened to kill him. They would probably have -sent him to Khartoum before this, had not the mad Danaglas shown what -little mercy would have been shown to them.”</p> - -<p>“The governor of a fort should never surrender his charge,” replied -Casati.</p> - -<p>“I quite agree with you in that, if his troops remain faithful to him; -but if his troops arrest him, haul down the flag, and open the gates, -what can the poor governor do?”</p> - -<p>“A captain of a warship should fight his guns to the last.”</p> - -<p>“Quite so, but if the crew seize the captain, and put him into the hold -in irons, and haul down the flag, what then?”</p> - -<p>“No, I do not agree with you,” said the Captain, with emphasis. “The -Pasha should remain with his people.”</p> - -<p>“But where are his people? The rebels refuse to have anything to do with -him except as a prisoner to them. Do you mean to say that the Pasha -should return as a prisoner, and be content with that humiliating -position?”</p> - -<p>“No, certainly not.”</p> - -<p>“Perhaps you think that they would relent, and elevate him again to the -post of Governor?”</p> - -<p>“I cannot say.”</p> - -<p>“Do you think they would?”</p> - -<p>“It may be.”</p> - -<p>“Would you advise the Pasha to trust himself into the power of -Fadl-el-Mulla Bey and his officers again?”</p> - -<p>“No.”</p> - -<p>“Now, here are your servants. Supposing they lay hold of you one night, -and were going to kill you, and you were only saved because your cries -attracted your deliverers to the scene. Would you trust your life in -their hands again?”</p> - -<p>“No.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_189" id="page_189"></a>{189}</span>”</p> - -<p>“Supposing your servants came to you this afternoon and told you they -would not obey you in the future, and if you insisted on their obedience -would shoot you, would you consider yourself as morally bound to command -them?”</p> - -<p>“No.”</p> - -<p>“Then, my dear Casati, you have answered the Pasha, and what you would -not do, the Pasha is not bound to do. Emin Pasha had two duties to -perform, one to the Khedive and one to his soldiers. It is because he -performed his duty nobly and patiently towards the Khedive that I and my -young friends volunteered to help him. The Khedive commands him to -abandon the Province, and forwards assistance to him for that purpose. -He appeals to his troops and requests them to express their views, -whereupon they seize him, menace him with death, and finally imprison -him for six months. His answer is given him, which is, ‘For the last -time, we have nothing to do with you.’”</p> - -<p>Casati was not convinced, and I see that the Pasha is much troubled in -mind. They will meet again to-night, and argue the moral aspect of the -case again. God knows what their intentions will be to-morrow. Neither -of them realise the true state of affairs. I am convinced that their -minds are in a bewildered state, as their position would be desperate if -we left them to themselves for a few days.</p> - -<p>Before retiring for the night the Pasha came to my tent and assured me -that he would leave on the 10th of April; that he is certain all the -Egyptians in this camp, numbering with their followers about 600, will -leave with him. But reports from other quarters prove to me that the -Pasha is grossly mistaken. How they will undeceive him I do not know. So -far I have not exchanged many words with any of the party, and I have -certainly not pretended to have any authority over them. I consider the -Pasha as my guest, and the Egyptians as his followers. I supply the -whole party with meat and grain, and Surgeon Parke attends to the sick -each morning and afternoon.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_190" id="page_190"></a>{190}</span></p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />April 1.<br />Kavalli’s.</div> - -<p><i>April 1st</i>.—The first move homeward has been made to-day. Lieut. -Stairs has been despatched with his company, sixty-one effective rifles, -to form advance camp at Mazamboni’s to store contributions, &c., ready -for the huge column that will leave here on the 10th instant.</p> - -<p>Accompanying him were Major Awash Effendi, Rushti Effendi, and two or -three other Egyptians and their followers, also fifty-seven of -Mazamboni’s, twenty-nine of Usiri’s, and thirty of Mpinga’s natives. -Besides loads of No. 2 Company, these carriers took eighty-eight loads -of ammunition, Remington, Winchester, and gunpowder.</p> - -<p>Here is a curious table for medical men:</p> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="1" cellspacing="1" summary="" - class="tbl"> -<tr> -<td align="center"> </td> -<td align="center" colspan="4">Weights of Officers at</td></tr> -<tr> -<td align="center"> </td> -<td align="center">Banana <br />Point, </td> - -<td align="center">Fort Bodo in <br />the Forest, </td> - -<td align="center">Kavalli’s<br />Camp,</td> - -<td align="center">After<br />sickness,</td></tr> -<tr> -<td> </td> - -<td align="center">1887.</td> - -<td align="center">1888.</td> - -<td align="center">1889.</td> - -<td align="center">1889. <a name="FNanchor_10_10" id="FNanchor_10_10"></a><a href="#Footnote_10_10" class="fnanchor">[10]</a></td></tr> -<tr> -<td>Stanley</td> - -<td align="center"> 168 lbs.</td> - -<td align="center"> 135 lbs.</td> - -<td align="center"> 145 lbs.</td> - -<td align="center"> 132 lbs.</td></tr> -<tr> -<td>Jephson</td> - -<td align="center">168 <span class="ditto">”</span></td> - -<td align="center">132 <span class="ditto">”</span></td> - -<td align="center">150½ <span class="ditto">”</span></td> - -<td align="center">132 <span class="ditto">”</span></td></tr> -<tr> -<td>Dr. Parke</td> - -<td align="center">162 <span class="ditto">”</span></td> - -<td align="center">148 <span class="ditto">”</span></td> - -<td align="center">170 <span class="ditto">”</span></td></tr> -<tr> -<td>Major Barttelot</td> - -<td align="center">144 <span class="ditto">”</span></td> - -<td align="center"> —</td> - -<td align="center"> —</td></tr> -<tr> -<td>Lt. Stairs</td> - -<td align="center">164 <span class="ditto">”</span></td> - -<td align="center">143 <span class="ditto">”</span></td> - -<td align="center"> —</td></tr> -<tr> -<td>Capt. Nelson</td> - -<td align="center">176 <span class="ditto">”</span></td> - -<td align="center">140 <span class="ditto">”</span></td> - -<td align="center">146 <span class="ditto">”</span></td></tr> -<tr> -<td>Emin Pasha</td> - -<td align="center"> —</td> - -<td align="center"> —</td> - -<td align="center">130 <span class="ditto">”</span></td></tr> -</table> - -<p><i>April 2nd</i>.—Ruwenzori has been visible the last three days. That -snow-covered range has been a most attractive and beautiful sight—pure, -dazzling, varying in colours with the hours, with infinite depth of -opaline blue all round it, until the sun set and dark night covered the -earth. The natives declared it could not be seen because the south hill -of the Baregga obstructed the view, but by our levels and triangulations -we knew it ought to be seen; and it has been seen. We pointed it out to -the natives. They turned and asked, “How did you know it could be seen -from here?”</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />April 3.<br />Kavalli’s.</div> - -<p><i>April 3rd</i>.—The Pasha is slowly opening his eyes. He came to me this -afternoon and related that he had assembled his household of fifty-one -souls—servants, guards, orderlies, who have hitherto been attached to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_191" id="page_191"></a>{191}</span> -him—and had asked them who were willing to accompany him on the 10th of -April. All but four declined. The rest say they will wait for their -“brethren.”</p> - -<p>One of these four faithfuls is one who bluntly stated that he only -followed to seize a little girl whom Captain Casati was detaining by -force from him, and that after getting possession of her he would return -to Kavalli to await his “brethren.”</p> - -<p>Upon asking the Pasha what claims Casati had upon the girl—who is -intensely black and about five years old—he said that Casati a few -years ago had applied to him for a female cook. She had accompanied him -to Unyoro while he had represented him in that country. During her -service with Casati the female cook gave birth to this child, who was -the offspring of a Soudanese soldier. For three years the child was -reared by Casati in his house. She became a pet, and with her artless -prattle and childish ways she relieved the solitary man’s tedious life. -On his expulsion from Unyoro by Rabba Rega and return to the province, -the woman was claimed by her husband, and likewise the child, but at the -same time he disclaimed paternity. Casati refused to deliver the child -up, and has obstinately refused to do so to this day.</p> - -<p>The Pasha thinks it possible that the soldier has some sinister -intentions respecting Casati, and deplores Casati’s morbid attachment to -his servants, male and female. He is disinclined to exercise his -authority on Casati, who has been his guest and true friend for many -years, but he regrets that his friend will not be advised by him. This -conversation occurred between 5.30 to 6.30 <small>P.M.</small></p> - -<p>One hour later, while taking a short stroll before my tent in the -moonlight, I heard a fierce brawling voice uttering in Arabic guttural -imprecations. Amid the loud, strenuous, and voluble abuse, I -distinguished my name and the Pasha’s frequently, with determined -splutterings of “Enough—enough—enough!” I heard other voices coaxingly -crying, “For the Prophet’s sake.” “Have a little patience.” “Ease your -wrath,” and such<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_192" id="page_192"></a>{192}</span> like, and presently the Pasha’s voice rang out deep -and strong “What is the matter there? Peace, I charge you; peace, -then,—Well, go and tell Mr. Stanley; his tent is not far off. Go!”</p> - -<p>Presently, one Mohammed Effendi, the engineer, a light skinned and not -unprepossessing Egyptian, thus challenged, rushed up to me, followed by -a large crowd, and poured—that is the term—a story strongly coloured -by jealousy and bitter with angry denunciations. His wife, he said, to -whom he had been lawfully married at Khartoum, had been allowed by him, -on the death of the Abyssinian mother of Ferida, to become nurse to the -child. This was thirty months ago. At first his wife could find time not -only to perform duty by the child, but also to him, but during the last -six months she had become estranged from him, and abused him violently -upon every occasion they met. During the last twenty-four hours he had -sent over a score of messages to her, each of which she had rejected -with increasing scorn. Was this right? Was there no justice for him?</p> - -<p>“Really, my friend Mohammed,” I replied, “I have no authority to settle -such delicate questions. Have you been to the Pasha? Have you asked him -to try and exercise his authority? Seeing that she is a nurse in his -household, he is the person you should apply to; not me.”</p> - -<p>“Go to him! Why should I go to him? Nay, then, if you will not do me -justice, I will either kill myself, or my wife, or the Pasha. I will do -one thing sure.”</p> - -<p>He departed, storming loudly, so that the entire camp heard his threats.</p> - -<p>I had scarcely ceased wondering what all this meant, when a white-robed -figure stole up rapidly towards my tent, evidently a female by her -dress.</p> - -<p>“Who is this?” I asked.</p> - -<p>“The wife of Mohammed Effendi.”</p> - -<p>“In the name of God why do you choose to come here?<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_193" id="page_193"></a>{193}</span>”</p> - -<p>“You must listen to my story, having heard that of Mohammed,” she -answered.</p> - -<p>“Have you the Pasha’s permission to visit me?”</p> - -<p>The permission being granted, the woman was shown into my tent by Mr. -Jephson and Dr. Parke.</p> - -<p>“Well, speak; my ears are opened.”</p> - -<p>The fair one crouched down, and made a mass of white in the darkest -corner of the tent, lit as it was by a single candle. A subtle fragrance -of Shiraz, or Stamboul oil filled the tent, and a perfectly pure and -delightful voice uttered such clear-cut Arabic that I imagined I -understood every word. A fortnight’s experience with such a voice would -make me an Arabic scholar.</p> - -<p>The fair one’s story was to the effect that she disliked her husband -most heartily—yea, hated him altogether. He was simply a heathen brute. -He was too low to be worthy of her regard. He had robbed, torn her -clothes, beaten her, had half split her head one time. No; she would -never, never—no, never, &c., &c., have anything to do with him in -future.</p> - -<p>“Have you finished your story?”</p> - -<p>“Yes.”</p> - -<p>“Serur! Take her back to the Pasha’s house.”</p> - -<p>A few seconds elapsed, and the Pasha advanced to the tent and craved an -interview. He related that the woman with the husband’s consent had -become nurse to his little daughter, for which she received a liberal -wage in cloth, which was no sooner paid to her than her husband snatched -it away, and shamefully beat her. At her entreaties she obtained the -Pasha’s protection even against the husband. He had heard no objections -made, and knew nothing of this fury of jealousy until this evening when -he heard the wrathy voice of Mohammed denouncing him, and threatening to -shoot him. Thereupon he was obliged to ask for my protection, as the -fellow might in a fit of madness kill somebody.</p> - -<p>“Do you leave this affair in my hands, Pasha?”</p> - -<p>“Certainly.”</p> - -<p>“Very well. I will ask you to retire to your quarters, guards will be -placed at every entrance leading to them,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_194" id="page_194"></a>{194}</span> and I will guarantee the -safety of all within. I will call Mohammed and hear his story patiently, -and will let you know what arrangements have been made before you -sleep.”</p> - -<p>The Pasha retired and Mohammed was called.</p> - -<p>His story was that having given his wife permission to be nurse to -little Ferida, he had no intention of depriving the little girl of her -services; he simply wished that his wife should visit him occasionally -and prove herself amenable to marital duty.</p> - -<p>“If you will conform to a few simple conditions, I will do my best to -bring your wife to her senses, but it is necessary you should meet me at -the Pasha’s house to-morrow morning and apologise to him for your -shocking violence to-night. Now, don’t interrupt me,” I said; “you have -been urged to this rude behaviour by your friends, Dr. Vita Hassan, -Bassili Effendi, and others to make a scene. Go to your house quietly, -and beware you utter no more words to-night. To-morrow morning we shall -meet again.”</p> - -<p>This evening a mail has arrived from Wadelai, and the letters announce -the utmost disorder and the most extraordinary confusion at that -station.</p> - -<p><i>April 4th</i>.—At 8 <small>A.M.</small> I proceeded to the Pasha’s house and informed -him that I desired to call Mohammed to his presence. He consented, and -the man made a most submissive apology, though his angry features belied -his professions of penitence. He was then told to state to the Pasha -before me upon what conditions he was willing to let the woman continue -as nurse. He said he wished his wife to attend on Ferida until she was -put to sleep, from the first hour of the morning, that was all, to which -the Pasha expressed himself agreeable.</p> - -<p>“On the following conditions only, Mohammed, do I agree:—</p> - -<p>“1st. Your wife shall attend on Ferida during the daytime.</p> - -<p>“2nd. Your wife shall return to your house after sunset.</p> - -<p>“3rd. Your wife is not to be beaten or bruised.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_195" id="page_195"></a>{195}</span></p> - -<p>“4th. Your wife’s personal property shall remain with the Pasha.</p> - -<p>“5th. You shall assist, protect, and watch over your wife while on the -march, and allow her on reaching camp to serve Ferida.</p> - -<p>“6th. You shall not trouble your wife and distract her with your demands -during the day—except in case of your illness.</p> - -<p>“7th. The Pasha, in consideration of your wife’s service, shall feed and -clothe her, and see that she is carried on the march.”</p> - -<p>Both the Pasha and Mohammed agreed.</p> - -<p>The woman was then called, and the Pasha translated word for word the -above conditions. As she heard them she swept the white muslin from her -face, and in the absence of any superior attraction she appeared to me -to possess considerable beauty, with splendid large black eyes—a -distinctively fine Cairene face. The hut was filled with perfume from -her spotless white muslin robe. Under this overdress, she wore a scarlet -dress. In the wilds of Africa I never met anything approaching her.</p> - -<p>After the conditions had been translated, she interjected a vigorous -“Never, never, no, never!” coupled with a free abuse of Mohammed, who -stood looking ridiculously angry and jealous. He appealed to me to -listen to her.</p> - -<p>“Take her to you, Mohammed.”</p> - -<p>The man gave the order to her to proceed to his house, which order she -contemptuously disregarded.</p> - -<p>“She must go to your house now,” I said.</p> - -<p>Again Mohammed extended his hand towards her, which she angrily pushed -aside. “Never, never, no, never!” she cried fiercely, with flashes of -anger from her beautiful gazelle eyes.</p> - -<p>“Please to command her departure, Pasha.”</p> - -<p>The Pasha delivered the order in his usual deep voice. She remained -immovable.</p> - -<p>“You see she refuses to go,” said the Pasha. “What can be done?”</p> - -<p>“My dear Pasha, we were prepared for a scene. This<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_196" id="page_196"></a>{196}</span> is exactly what we -both knew would happen. Despite her obstinacy, she must—she absolutely -must depart with her husband, and we must forbear, whatever happens, -unless the man strikes her. Please to command once more, Pasha, that she -accompany her own proper husband, or she shall be carried bodily to her -home.”</p> - -<p>The Pasha did so, and after a second’s hesitation, during which it was -clear that she was measuring the strength of two wills, she walked out, -taking the sweet fragrance and loveliness of her presence with her.</p> - -<p>“After her, Mohammed! but if you strike her with even a feather, she -shall become as a stranger to you until you reach Cairo. Let her scold -on, man, even until she faints with weariness. Does a man like you fear -wind? Be considerate with her for three or four days. She will come -round, never fear.”</p> - -<p>Ten minutes later Mohammed again made his appearance, and anxiously -cried out that she was possessed of a devil and unmanageable, tearing -her robes, and pulling at her face as though she would destroy its -beauty for ever, &c., &c.</p> - -<p>“Quite so, quite so, Mohammed; just what we expected she would do. Go -tie her up by the wrists, her hands behind her back, Mohammed. Do it -with a smile of confidence, and with soothing words, Mohammed. I know no -law to prevent you, Mohammed. She is your own lawful wife, Mohammed. But -beware of striking her, for if you do it you are a beast!”</p> - -<p>The man went, and, in a matter-of-fact way, tied up the shrewish beauty. -Then she shrieked and wailed for half an hour, and the neighbours’ wives -came in to comfort her, and begged her to be submissive to her lord, and -promised her that her husband would become at once tender and kind if -she but showed due obedience. “It is the excess of his love for you,” -they said, “that makes him so fierce and angry. If you were only wise, -he would become the most docile slave.” Wise wives!</p> - -<p>But their combined advice, and the cunning suggestions thrown in, had -not so much influence in subduing<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_197" id="page_197"></a>{197}</span> that raging temper, in my opinion, as -her bonds, which made the proud woman appear absurdly helpless before -the sneering husband.</p> - -<p>At 3 <small>P.M.</small> she sent a pitiful message to me that I would cause her -release, but she was sternly told that her voice had no power, nor her -beauty any charms for me; that she must appeal to her husband. -Accordingly she turned to Mohammed, and meekly implored her lord to go -and plead for her, that her bonds pained her, and that she would in -future obey him devotedly.</p> - -<p>Then Mohammed came, with his face radiant with triumphant emotions, and -relieved of those jealous wrinkles which had so disfigured it, and -interceded for her release. This was granted, with an advice not to let -his fondness become folly; to be commanding in tone, and austerely -distant for a few days, otherwise she would regain her lost advantages.</p> - -<p>She was permitted to resume her duties in the Pasha’s household. At -night she meekly returned to her husband’s house of her own accord. Let -us hope that peace will spread her wings over the disturbed family for -the future. Amen!</p> - -<p><i>April 5th</i>.—This morning Serour, a boy of Monbuttu land, belonging to -the Pasha’s household, informed me that only two of the Pasha’s servants -intended to follow him out of this camp. He stated that after the Pasha -had questioned his servants, the day before yesterday, they had gone -apart and consulted among themselves, and that they had finally resolved -to let him depart without them—orderlies, guards, clerks, and servants, -all except Bilal and he, Serour.</p> - -<p>“But are you sure that you will go with him?”</p> - -<p>“I don’t know. If all my friends remain behind, what shall I do alone?”</p> - -<p>“Well, then, only Bilal is certain of going?”</p> - -<p>“Yes.”</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />April 5.<br />Kavalli’s.</div> - -<p>At 10.30, after the usual morning muster, Sali reported to me that the -Zanzibaris were talking of several attempts having been made, in various -parts of the camp, to steal rifles from their huts, but that on<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_198" id="page_198"></a>{198}</span> each -occasion the attempt was thwarted by the prompt wakefulness of the -people. I was glad to hear that at last the Zanzibaris had learned the -importance of securing their rifles close by them at night. There is a -general feeling in the camp that something is about to happen. The -whispering circles observed each day, the care they take that no -outsiders approach too near them, the discovery that the Pasha’s -servants had actually informed the Pasha plainly that they would not -accompany him, the huge packets of letters that were despatched by the -Egyptians to the ever-dilatory Egyptians at Wadelai, the heavy mails -that came from Wadelai in return, the insidious warnings of others not -to trust in the Egyptians, coupled with the former theft of a rifle by -the returning officers, and these bold attempts to steal a few more -rifles, all conspired to prove conclusively that between this date and -the 10th of April some daring scheme is about to be tried.</p> - -<p>Up to this date I have regarded the Pasha and the people as our guests, -to be treated with all politeness and consideration, and myself as host -and guide merely, except when any matter was thrust and put into my -management. For the Pasha personally all of us entertained great respect -and sympathy. Not a day has passed without an exhibition of this feeling -from myself and officers, but we have been none the less aware that the -Pasha’s method fails utterly to constrain obedience. There has not been -a single order of any importance obeyed, nor any request regarded. As -often as we have observed this we have chafed and regretted that each -time we have been emboldened to speak to him he has believed himself -infallible in his judgment, from his thirteen years’ experience of them. -But now that the Egyptians had begun, from our quiet inoffensive manner, -to conceive that the whites were similar to their Pasha, and proposed to -accomplish some project involving our rights and liberties, the time was -come to act.</p> - -<p>I proceeded to the Pasha’s house.</p> - -<p>The Pasha, who was putting the final touches to some birds just stuffed -by his secretary, pulled himself up<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_199" id="page_199"></a>{199}</span> with his usual dignity, and gravely -prepared himself to listen.</p> - -<p>“Emin Pasha,” I said, “last evening couriers arrived from Wadelai and -Mswa. They brought a large packet of letters from Selim Bey, Egyptian -clerks, and others, and each letter which you received described -disorder and distress. There are now half a dozen factions there, each -arrayed against the other. One Coptic clerk wrote you that no one seemed -to know what he was about, that the soldiers broke into the Government -magazines and took out whatever pleased them, that the officers were -unable to restrain them, and that Wadelai was like a settlement -consisting wholly of madmen; that Selim Bey had not begun to embark his -own family yet, that he had but few followers, and that these were -altogether unruly.</p> - -<p>“Your people here also received many letters from their brethren, and, -as though in accordance with this fact, there was an attempt made last -night to appropriate our arms. Three separate times they entered the -Zanzibari huts and tried to abstract the rifles; but, acting after my -instructions, the Zanzibaris tied their rifles to their waists, and when -they were pulled, they were wakened, and the intending thieves decamped. -While you have been engaged with your collections and studies, I have -been observing.</p> - -<p>“They have yet five nights before our departure on the 10th inst. The -attempt to rob us of our arms of defence failed last night. They will -try again, and perhaps succeed, for I credit them with being clever -enough, and it is quite clear that they have a design of some kind. Of -course, if they succeed in appropriating even one rifle, the punishment -will be summary, for I shall then forget what is due to them as your -people and my guests. But this is what I wish to avoid. I should be loth -to shed their blood, and create scenes of violence, when a better way of -safeguarding our arms and ammunition, and effecting a quiet and -peaceable departure from here, can be found.</p> - -<p>“I propose to you one of two things. Sound the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_200" id="page_200"></a>{200}</span> signal to muster all the -Arabs and Soudanese with you, and then find out gently who is willing to -leave with you. Those who are not willing, I shall order to leave the -camp. If they do not obey, then it will be for me to employ compulsion. -But as these people despise our Zanzibaris, they may very probably -attempt resistance. Well, in a land where there is no appeal but to our -fire-arms, it will certainly end violently, and we shall both regret it -afterwards.</p> - -<p>“The other proposal is much more effective and more bloodless. Do you -order your baggage to be packed up quietly, and at dawn my people shall -all be ready to escort you to a camp about three miles from here. From -that camp we shall issue a request that those who intend following you -shall come in and be welcome, but no other person shall approach without -permission on pain of death.”</p> - -<p>“Hum! May I inform Casati of this?” demanded the Pasha.</p> - -<p>“No, sir. Casati is in no danger; they will not hurt him, because he is -not their governor or officer. He is only a traveller. He can come the -next day, or whenever he is inclined. If he is detained, I will attack -the rebel camp and rescue Casati quickly enough.”</p> - -<p>The Pasha, while I spoke, shook his head in that melancholy, resigned -manner peculiar to him, which has always seemed to me to betray pitiable -irresolution.</p> - -<p>“You do not like either plan, Pasha, I see. Will you, then, suggest some -plan by which I can avoid coming into conflict with these wretched, -misguided people, for as certain as daylight, it is impending? In my -camp indiscipline and unruliness shall not prevail.”</p> - -<p>The Pasha, after a while, replied, “Your plan is not bad, but there is -not sufficient time.”</p> - -<p>“Why, Pasha, you have told me you have been packing up for the last -fifteen days. Do you mean to say that between now and to-morrow morning -you cannot finish packing your baggage? In thirty minutes our Expedition -can start. If you cannot be awakened to the danger of bloodshed, and you -will not accept<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_201" id="page_201"></a>{201}</span> my plan, nor suggest anything that will relieve us of -the necessity of destroying one another, I must at once take measures -for the general safety; and should a drop of blood be spilled, it must -be upon your head that the guilt of it will lie. Adieu.”</p> - -<p>I rose and sounded the signal for general muster under arms. Myself and -officers armed, and the Zanzibaris, Manyuema, Soudanese, and natives, -seeing us assume our weapons, knew that the case was urgent, and -hastened to the square with wonderful celerity. The natives of Kavalli -passed the alarm, and some hundreds came rushing up to take their share -in what they believed was a coming struggle.</p> - -<p>Within five minutes the companies were under arms, and stood attentive -along three sides of the great square. The Pasha, seeing that I was in -earnest, came out, and begged me to listen to one word.</p> - -<p>“Certainly; what is it?” I asked.</p> - -<p>“Only tell me what I have to do now.”</p> - -<p>“It is too late, Pasha, to adopt the pacific course I suggested to you. -The alarm is general now, and therefore I propose to discover for myself -this danger, and face it here. Sound the signal, please, for muster of -your Arabs before me.”</p> - -<p>“Very good,” replied the Pasha, and gave the order to his trumpeter.</p> - -<p>We waited ten minutes in silence. Then, perceiving that not much -attention was paid to the signal, I requested Mr. Jephson to take No. 1 -company, arm the men with clubs and sticks, and drive every Arab, -Egyptian, and Soudanese into the square, without regard to rank, to -search every house, and drag out every male found within.</p> - -<p>The Zanzibaris were deployed across the camp, and, advancing on the run, -began to shower blows upon every laggard and dawdler they came across, -until the most sceptical was constrained to admit that, when commanded, -the Zanzibaris were fit for something better than working as a hamal for -a lazy Egyptian and his slave.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_202" id="page_202"></a>{202}</span></p> - -<p>For the first time the Egyptians and Soudanese formed a decent line. Not -until they had formed it with military exactitude and precision was a -word said to them. It was most amusing to see an ordinary Zanzibari -carrier straighten with his staff—which he flourished with a grim -face—the line of majors, Vakeels, captains, lieutenants, clerks, and -storekeepers.</p> - -<p>When the line was satisfactory, I stepped up to them and informed them -that I heard they wished to fight, that they were eager to try what kind -of men the Zanzibaris were. They had seen how well they could work; it -would be a pity if they were not able to see how well they could fight.</p> - -<p>The Vakeel—Lieutenant-Governor—replied, “But we don’t wish to fight.”</p> - -<p>“Then what is this I hear, that one of you is as good as ten of my men, -of rifles being stolen, of plots and counterplots each day that you have -been here, of your resolve not to follow the Pasha after making us build -your houses and collect food for you, and carrying hundreds of loads the -last two months up this mountain from the lake, and last night three of -our houses were entered, and you laid your hands upon our arms. Speak, -and say what it all means.”</p> - -<p>“Ah, Pasha, no one of us wishes to fight, and let the thieves, if found, -die.”</p> - -<p>“If found! Will any thief confess his theft and deliver himself to be -shot. Will you, who are all of one mind, betray one another, and submit -yourselves to punishment? Do you intend to follow your Pasha?”</p> - -<p>“We all do,” they answered.</p> - -<p>“Stay. Those who intend following the Pasha form rank on that other -side, like soldiers, each in his place.”</p> - -<p>At once there was a general and quick movement in regular order; they -then turned about and faced me again.</p> - -<p>“So! Is there none desirous of staying in this fair land with Selim Bey, -where you will be able to make these natives do your work for you, cook, -and feed you?<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_203" id="page_203"></a>{203}</span>”</p> - -<p>“None, not one. La il Allah il Allah!”</p> - -<p>“Why, Pasha, you have been misinformed, surely? These people vow they -are all faithful. There is not a traitor here.”</p> - -<p>“I do not see my servants and orderlies here,” replied the Pasha.</p> - -<p>“Ah, Lieutenant Stairs, please take a party and roust every man out. On -the least resistance you know what to do.”</p> - -<p>“Right, sir.”</p> - -<p>Lieutenant Stairs took his company, gave his orders, and in a few -minutes the Pasha’s servants were brought into the square; they were -deprived of their rifles and accoutrements.</p> - -<p>“Now, Pasha, please ask them severally before me what they intend -doing.”</p> - -<p>Upon the Pasha asking them, they all replied they were willing to follow -their master to the end of the world, excepting one, Seroor.</p> - -<p>The Pasha, pointing out Seroor, said, “That is the chief conspirator in -my household.”</p> - -<p>“Oh, it will only take one cartridge to settle his business.”</p> - -<p>“But I hope, for God’s sake, that you will try him first, and not take -my word for it.”</p> - -<p>“Undoubtedly, my dear Pasha. We invariably give such people a fair -trial.”</p> - -<p>Seroor was placed under guard with three others whom the Pasha pointed -out.</p> - -<p>“Now, Pasha, this business having been satisfactorily ended, will you be -good enough to tell these officers that the tricks of Wadelai must -absolutely cease here, and that in future they are under my command. If -I discover any treacherous tricks I shall be compelled to exterminate -them utterly. No Mahdist, Arabist, or rebel can breathe in my camp. -Those who behave themselves and are obedient to orders will suffer no -harm from their fellows or from us. My duty is to lead them to Egypt, -and until they arrive in Cairo I will not leave them. Whatever I can do -to make them comfortable I will do,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_204" id="page_204"></a>{204}</span> but for sedition, and theft of -arms, there is only death.”</p> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="" - class="tbl"> -<tr> -<td align="center" colspan="8">Muster of Emin Pasha’s Followers, April 5th, 1889.</td></tr> -<tr valign="middle"> -<td align="center" class="btb">Name.</td> -<td align="center" class="btbl">Loads.</td> - -<td align="center" class="btbl">Wives.</td> - -<td align="center" class="btbl">Children.</td> - -<td align="center" class="btbl">Men.</td> - -<td align="center" class="btbl">Women.</td> - -<td align="center" class="btbl">Infants.</td> - -<td align="center" class="btbl">Total of<br />People.</td></tr> -<tr> -<td>Emin Pasha, Governor</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 51</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 1</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 16</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 15</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 9</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 42</td></tr> -<tr> -<td>Captain Casati, traveller</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 10</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 3</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 8</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 1</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 13</td></tr> -<tr> -<td>Signor Marco, merchant</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 13</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 5</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 4</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 5</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 5</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 3</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 23</td></tr> -<tr> -<td>Vita Hassan, apothecary</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 11</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 2</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 7</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 7</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 2</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 19</td></tr> - -<tr><td colspan="6"> </td></tr> -<tr> -<td>Osman Effendi Latif, Vakeel</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> - -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td></tr> -<tr> -<td> His mother </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> - -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td></tr> -<tr> -<td> <span class="ditto">"</span> Abdul Rahman, his son, 17 years</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> - -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td></tr> -<tr> -<td> <span class="ditto">"</span> Achmed - - - <span class="ditto">"</span> 10 <span class="ditto">"</span> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 11</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 2</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 4</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 3</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 5</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 1</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 17</td></tr> -<tr> -<td> <span class="ditto">"</span> Rejab - - - <span class="ditto">"</span> 5 <span class="ditto">"</span> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> - -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td></tr> -<tr> -<td> <span class="ditto">"</span> Sadi-eddeen - - - <span class="ditto">"</span> 4 <span class="ditto">"</span> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> - -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td></tr> -<tr><td colspan="6"> </td></tr> - -<tr> -<td>Ayoub Effendi (absent), clerk</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 4</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 1</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 1</td></tr> -<tr> -<td>Achmet Effendi Ibrahim, captain</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 9</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 3</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 3</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 5</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 2</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 14</td></tr> -<tr> -<td>Abdul Wahid Effendi, captain</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 8</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 1</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 4</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 3</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 1</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 10</td></tr> -<tr> -<td>Ibrahim Effendi</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 1</td></tr> -<tr> -<td>Assinaka, clerk</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 7</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 3</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 7</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 11</td></tr> -<tr> -<td>Ali Agha Shamruk, captain</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 6</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 1</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 2</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 1</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 5</td></tr> -<tr> -<td>Rushdi Effendi, clerk</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 5</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 2</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 1</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 3</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 4</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 11</td></tr> -<tr> -<td>Ibrahim Effendi Telbass, lieutenant</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 9</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 2</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 4</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 7</td></tr> -<tr> -<td>Abu Zehr Achmed</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 5</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 2</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 1</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 4</td></tr> - -<tr><td colspan="6"> </td></tr> - -<tr><td>Ali Effendi, captain </td> - -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> - -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td></tr> -<tr> -<td> Mohammed, his son, 14 years </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> - -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td></tr> -<tr> -<td> Ibrahim - - - <span class="ditto">"</span> 11 <span class="ditto">"</span> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 20</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 1</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 3</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 9</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 9</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 23</td></tr> -<tr> -<td> Abdul Hamed - - <span class="ditto">"</span> 6 <span class="ditto">"</span> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td></tr> - -<tr><td colspan="6"> </td></tr> - -<tr><td>Mohammed Mutlook, soldier</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 3</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 1</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 2</td></tr> -<tr> -<td>Awash Effendi, major</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 17</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 4</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 9</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 1</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 15</td></tr> -<tr> -<td>Hamdam, soldier</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 2</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 1</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 2</td></tr> -<tr> -<td>Mohammed el Arabi, soldier</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 4</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 3</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 4</td></tr> -<tr> -<td>Sulieman Effendi, 1st lieutenant</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 12</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 3</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 5</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 5</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 2</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 16</td></tr> -<tr> -<td>Faratch Ago, lieutenant</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 20</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 4</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 5</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 5</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 12</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 27</td></tr> -<tr> -<td>Mohammed Sulieman, soldier</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 3</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 1</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 2</td></tr> -<tr> -<td>Bakheet, soldier</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 2</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 1</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 1</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 3</td></tr> - -<tr><td colspan="6"> </td></tr> -<tr> -<td>Azra Effendi, clerk </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> - -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td></tr> -<tr> -<td> His mother </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 8</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 3</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 2</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 2</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 4</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 13</td></tr> - -<tr><td colspan="6"> </td></tr> - -<tr> -<td>Rafael Effendi, clerk</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 5</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 2</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 1</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 1</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 5</td></tr> -<tr> -<td>Wasuf Effendi, clerk</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 6</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 2</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 1</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 2</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 2</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 8</td></tr> - -<tr><td colspan="6"> </td></tr> - -<tr> -<td>Michael Effendi (deceased) </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> - -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td></tr> -<tr> -<td> His children— </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> - -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td></tr> -<tr> -<td> Awab boy, 6 years </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> - -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td></tr> -<tr> -<td> Bushara -<span class="ditto">"</span> 4 <span class="ditto">"</span> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> - -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td></tr> -<tr> -<td> Girghis - <span class="ditto">"</span> 2 <span class="ditto">"</span> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> - -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td></tr> -<tr> -<td> Fullah girl, 7 <span class="ditto">"</span> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 10</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 8</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 4</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 8</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 20</td></tr> -<tr> -<td> Mustafia <span class="ditto">"</span> 10 <span class="ditto">"</span> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> - -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td></tr> -<tr> -<td> Mushtara <span class="ditto">"</span> 4 <span class="ditto">"</span> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> - -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td></tr> -<tr> -<td> Hamma - <span class="ditto">"</span> 2 <span class="ditto">"</span> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> - -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td></tr> -<tr> -<td> Beheri <span class="ditto">"</span> 4 <span class="ditto">"</span> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> - -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td></tr> - -<tr><td colspan="6"> </td></tr> - -<tr> -<td>Abrian Effendi, clerk</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 9</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 3</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 2</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 7</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 8</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 1</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 22</td></tr> -<tr> -<td>Awad Effendi, clerk</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 10</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 4</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 5</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 2</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 3</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 15</td></tr> -<tr> -<td>Abdul Fettah (deceased)</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 5</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 1</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 3</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 1</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 6<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_205" id="page_205"></a>{205}</span></td></tr> - -<tr> -<td>Mohammed Kher, clerk </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 5 </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 6 </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 3 </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 2 </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 5 </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 17</td></tr> -<tr> -<td>Ibrahim Effendi, lieutenant </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 5 </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 1 </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 1 </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 3</td></tr> -<tr> -<td>Mohammed Effendi Emin, soldier </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 8 </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 4 </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 3 </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 8</td></tr> -<tr> -<td>Hamid Mohammed, soldier </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 3 </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 1 </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 1 </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 2 </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 5</td></tr> -<tr> -<td colspan="8"> </td></tr> -<tr> -<td>Yusuf Effendi</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"></td></tr> - -<tr><td>Mohammed, his son, 12 years</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 12 </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 4 </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 4 </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 10 </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 12 </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 32</td></tr> -<tr><td>Kahlil - " 11 "</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"></td></tr> - -<tr><td>Ibrahim, his brother</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"></td></tr> -<tr> -<td colspan="8"> </td></tr> -<tr> -<td>Rajah Effendi, Pasha’s secretary </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 7 </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 2 </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 2 </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 2 </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 3 </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 10</td></tr> -<tr> -<td>Arif Effendi, Pasha’s clerk </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 5 </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 2 </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 2 </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 3 </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 8</td></tr> -<tr> -<td>Mabu, soldier </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 2 </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 1 </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 1 </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 3</td></tr> -<tr> -<td>Merjan, soldier </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 1 </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 1</td></tr> -<tr> -<td>Children of Mohammed Osman— </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"></td></tr> -<tr> -<td colspan="8"> </td></tr> - -<tr><td> Ismail, son, 12 years</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"></td></tr> - -<tr><td> Bukra, girl, 13 "</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 4 </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 3 </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 3 </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 2 </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 2 </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 10</td></tr> - -<tr><td> Fatima " 10 "</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"></td></tr> -<tr> -<td colspan="8"> </td></tr> -<tr> -<td>Kur, sergeant </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 2 </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 2 </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 2 </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 5</td></tr> -<tr> -<td>Feruzi, trumpeter </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 2 </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 1 </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 2</td></tr> -<tr> -<td>Seeroor Adam, soldier </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 5 </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 3 </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 2 </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 3 </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 3 </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 12</td></tr> -<tr> -<td>Ahmed Effendi Reif, storekeeper </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 3 </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 1 </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 1 </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 3</td></tr> -<tr> -<td>Ahmed Effendi Ibrahim, clerk </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 4 </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 1 </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 1 </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 1 </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 4</td></tr> -<tr> -<td>Abu Scherag, soldier </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 4 </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 1 </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 1 </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 3</td></tr> -<tr> -<td colspan="8"> </td></tr> -<tr> -<td>Basili Effendi</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"></td></tr> -<tr> -<td>Toma Effendi three Coptic<br /> - brothers, clerks</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"></td></tr> -<tr> -<td>Daoud Effendi<br /> - and two sisters, -captains</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 11 </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 7 </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 10 </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 22</td></tr> -<tr> -<td colspan="8"> </td></tr> -<tr> -<td>Awari, soldier </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 3 </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 2 </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 2 </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 5</td></tr> -<tr> -<td>Farag Hashin, soldier </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 3 </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 1 </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 1 </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 3</td></tr> -<tr> -<td>Fathel Mullah, soldier </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 2 </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 1 </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 2</td></tr> -<tr> -<td>Ibrahim, soldier </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 3 </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 1</td></tr> -<tr> -<td colspan="8"> </td></tr> -<tr> -<td>Shukri Aga (absent), captain</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"></td></tr> -<tr> -<td>His children—</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"></td></tr> -<tr> -<td colspan="8"> </td></tr> -<tr><td> Achmed, his son, 13 years</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 15 </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 6 </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 4 </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 4 </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 7 </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 3 </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 24</td></tr> - -<tr><td> Juma - " 12 "</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"></td></tr> - -<tr><td> Adam - " 14 "</td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"></td></tr> -<tr> -<td colspan="8"> </td></tr> -<tr> -<td>Matyera, interpreter </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 3 </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 4 </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 1 </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 1 </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> </td> -<td align="right" class="bl"> 7</td></tr> - -<tr> -<td class="bb"> </td> -<td align="right" class="btbl"> 397 </td> -<td align="right" class="btbl"> 82 </td> -<td align="right" class="btbl"> 69 </td> -<td align="right" class="btbl">126 </td> -<td align="right" class="btbl"> 182 </td> -<td align="right" class="btbl"> 36 </td> -<td align="right" class="btbl"> 551</td><td><a name="FNanchor_11_11" id="FNanchor_11_11"></a><a href="#Footnote_11_11" class="fnanchor">[11]</a></td></tr> -</table> - -<p>The Pasha translated, and the Arabs bowed their<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_206" id="page_206"></a>{206}</span> assent, and through the -Vakeel and two captains, vowed that they would obey their father -religiously.</p> - -<p>“Good,” I replied; “and now that I assume command, I want to have a list -of your names and exact number of your families, and carriers will be -allotted to you according to your number, and on the fifth day we -leave.”</p> - -<p>Poor Pasha! It was as clear as the noonday sun why 10,000 followers had -dwindled in number to Bilal, the solitary <span class="smcap">one</span>! After a patient and -scrupulous analysis of the why and wherefore of these events, the result -is manifest, and we see the utter unfitness of the scientific student -and the man of unsuspecting heart to oppose these fawning, crafty -rogues, who have made fraud and perfidy their profession. At the same -time, it is not so clear that, had he penetrated their dissimulating -wiles, and grappled with these evil men boldly, and crushed the heads of -these veterans in falsehood and craft, that his position would have been -safer than it was. Each man, however, follows his own nature, and must -abide the consequences of his judgment and acts. But all must admit, -that what is so far written does infinite credit to his heart.</p> - -<p><i>April 6th.</i>—Sixty-five natives have arrived here, sent by the chief -Mazamboni as carriers, to be ready for the 10th instant.</p> - -<p>Osman Latif Effendi, the Lieutenant-Governor of the Province, was once -much addicted to inebriety, but of late years he has become a rigid -abstainer, and such an absorbed reader of the Koran that not long ago -his clothes were aflame before he was aware of it.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />April 6.<br />Kavalli’s.</div> - -<p>During the sudden muster of the day before yesterday, and the fierce -declaration of my intentions, he became energetic himself, and I found -that energy, as well as disease, becomes contagious. He had prepared for -an immediate start after us. His mother, an old lady, seventy-five years -old, with a million of wrinkles in her ghastly white face, was not very -fortunate in her introduction to me, for, while almost at white heat, -she threw herself before me in the middle of the square, jabbering in -Arabic to me, upon which, with an impatient wave of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_207" id="page_207"></a>{207}</span> the hand, I cried, -“Get out of this; this is not the place for old women.” She lifted her -hands and eyes up skyward, gave a little shriek, and cried, “O Allah!” -in such tragic tones that almost destroyed my character. Every one in -the square witnessed the limp and shrunk figure, and laughed loudly at -the poor old thing as she beat a hasty retreat.</p> - -<p>While arranging his eleven loads, consisting of baskets of provisions, -carpets, and cooking pots and family bedding, Osman Latif Effendi held -the Koran between thumb and finger, and alternately appealed to the -Arabic lines, and to the Arab lares and penates in the baskets.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill-207_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/ill-207_sml.jpg" width="234" height="248" alt="AN ANCIENT EGYPTIAN LADY." -title="AN ANCIENT EGYPTIAN LADY." /></a><br /> -<span class="caption">AN ANCIENT EGYPTIAN LADY.</span> -</p> - -<p>Among the people yesterday I found forty-nine young fellows without -arms. As they drew up in line they preferred a request to be armed with -rifles. Not knowing their character, I sent to the Pasha to be good -enough to give me a list of the most deserving, that they might assist -in the defence of the column while on the march, but he begged to be -excused, as he did not feel well enough. Poor Casati is not on speaking -terms with the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_208" id="page_208"></a>{208}</span> Pasha, because of his judgment against him in the matter -of the little black girl of the other day, and I suppose the Pasha will -not be on speaking terms with me, because of the shock of yesterday.</p> - -<p>The march will do them all good. When the Pasha is in presence of -Ruwenzori—the Mountains of the Moon—he will recover tone.</p> - -<p><i>April 7th.</i>—The Egyptians are now earnestly preparing for the march. I -have ordered every family to have a reserve of at least six days’ -provisions on hand at all times, irrespective of the plenty that may be -in the vicinity. The Zanzibaris have become at last impressed with the -necessity of this, though it required eighteen months most woeful -experience and constant instruction to teach them this secret of African -travel.</p> - -<p><i>April 8th.</i>—Mazamboni’s natives, who have been gathering here ready -for our departure, danced nearly the whole day. The women of the Bavira -turned out <i>en masse</i> to exhibit a farewell performance. My vanity -induces me to publish the fact that the songs were merely extemporaneous -effusions in our honour for having as they say “fixed the country in -order.”</p> - -<p>This afternoon Omar, sergeant of our Soudanese, created a scene because -of some supposed insult to his wife by the Zanzibaris. As the affair -waxed serious, the intending combatants were brought to the square and -requested, if they would not disperse, to fight the matter out before me -as umpire. Now Omar is a splendid specimen of manhood, an excellent -soldier and officer, but both he and the cantankerous Zanzibaris were -elated above reason by native beer. Omar and his Zanzibari antagonists -loudly clamoured for a fight. “With fists or clubs?” “Clubs for men,” -shouted the Zanzibaris—a very unfortunate choice for them, as it turned -out.</p> - -<p>Omar stood like a colossus, with his coat sleeve rolled up. A Zanzibari -sprang to the front calling out, “I am Asmani, of Muscati; behold how I -will lay low this Nubian!” They made two passes, and Asmani was struck -to the ground senseless. He was taken up and placed in charge of Dr. -Parke.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_209" id="page_209"></a>{209}</span></p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />April 8.<br />Kavalli’s.</div> - -<p>“Next of ye who feel aggrieved by Omar.” Hajji, a tall Zanzibari, -responded, flourished his club, struck deftly one side, but the blow was -cleverly caught by Omar, and before he could recover his guard Hajji had -measured his length on the greensward. The applause was terrific. There -were some 900 people present. Hajji was dragged away like the gored -horse in the Plaza de Toros, and sent to the Doctor to be cured of his -skull-crack.</p> - -<p>“Next;” and at the call bounded a sturdy, active little fellow named -Ulaiya—or England. “Ho, my lads, I am England—this Turki soldier shall -die!” In his brave confidence he flung his turban away, and exposed his -bare head. One, two, three! and, alas, for Ulaiya, the baton of Omar -came down on his unprotected cranium with a blow which would have killed -a white man, but only caused him to collapse and become too confused for -further effort. The sight of the blood streaming down his face -infuriated his comrades, and a general rush was made upon Omar, who, -before he was rescued, received an extremely sore back from the -multitude of blows showered on him, so that victor and vanquished had -received adequate punishment, and declared themselves perfectly -satisfied that each of their honours had been gratified by the display. -After their wounds, they were, however, taken to the guardhouse.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />April 9.<br />Kavalli’s.</div> - -<p><i>April 9th.</i>—This morning the combatants of yesterday were brought -before me at muster. Sergeant Omar was informed that, whereas he, being -an officer, had allowed himself to indulge in drink, his sentence was -that he should carry a box of ammunition while on the march until the -Zanzibaris’ heads were healed, and during their retirement from the -active list, he, being in the meanwhile, disrated. Three other Soudanese -were sentenced to do porter’s duty for a similar period for having drawn -steel weapons during the fight with intent to do deadly injury, and one -Soudanese received a dozen for putting a cartridge with intent to shoot. -Serur, the Monbuttu, servant of the Pasha, with his master’s permission, -received two<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_210" id="page_210"></a>{210}</span> dozen for employing a shovel to strike the combatants, -having been inspired by malice for the events of the 5th instant.</p> - -<p>Notice was also given that the march towards Zanzibar would commence -next morning, which announcement was received with “frantic applause.”</p> - -<p>Mpinga, Msiri, Mwité, Malai, Wabiassi, Mazamboni, and Balegga have -furnished 350 carriers. They are assembled this evening, dancing, -singing, and feasting.</p> - -<p>Shukri Agha, Commandant of Mswa, has not arrived yet, though he has sent -his children and women.</p> - -<p><i>April 10th.</i>—March from Kavalli’s to Mpinga’s, four hours.</p> - -<p>At 7.30 <small>A.M.</small> the column streamed out of camp led by No. 1 company, then -followed the Pasha and his people, with their allotted number of -carriers.</p> - -<p>Roughly the number was as follows—</p> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="" - class="tbl"> -<tr><td>Expedition</td><td align="right">230</td></tr> -<tr><td>Manyuema</td><td align="right">130</td></tr> -<tr><td>Plateau natives</td><td align="right">350</td></tr> -<tr><td>Kavallis</td><td align="right">200</td></tr> -<tr><td>Pasha and people</td><td align="right">600</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">Total</td><td align="right" class="bt">1,510</td></tr> -</table> - -<p>There was no disorder or disturbance. The column kept as close order as -though it was composed of veterans. The ridges and swells of land were -lined with women and children, who sang their farewells to us. Every one -was animated and happy.</p> - -<p>Captain Nelson, in charge of the rear guard, set fire to the straw town -which had seen so many anxious weeks of our life. The fire was splendid; -the fearful flames seemed to lick the very sky from where we stood, and -the great cloud of black smoke announced to the country round about, -even as far as Pisgah, that the Expedition was homeward bound.</p> - -<p><i>April 11th.</i>—Halt.</p> - -<p><i>April 12th.</i>—March to Mazamboni’s, four and a half hours.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_211" id="page_211"></a>{211}</span></p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />April 12.<br />Mazamboni’s.</div> - -<p>Continued our journey to the territory of our good friend Mazamboni, but -the compact order was much broken. The Pasha’s people straggled over -many miles of the road. This will have to be corrected to avoid -wholesale casualities. There is no fear in this country, for this is our -own, and the natives are in a fair way of becoming civilized.</p> - -<p>Lieutenant Stairs was discovered, having made ample provision for the -wants of the column, and had nothing but grateful news to deliver to us.</p> - -<p><i>April 13th.</i>—Halt. I write this in bed, am in great pain; Dr. Parke -informs me I suffer from sub-acute gastritis, which I judge to be -something of an inflammation of the stomach; am under the influence of -morphia. Last night about 2 <small>A.M.</small> the first symptoms attacked me. A halt -has been ordered, which I fear will be a long one. This compulsory pause -will be a forced extension of time to those misguided people of the -Equatorial Province who may hear of our departure from Kavalli, and who -may take this halt as a further grace offered to them.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />April 13.<br />Mazamboni’s.</div> - -<p>Now followed, one day after another, days of excessive pain and almost -utter weariness of life. The body pined for want of the nourishment that -the excoriated stomach invariably rejected. Nothing but milk and water -could be taken, and the agony caused by the digestion had to be eased by -hypodermic injections of morphia. For the first few days the devoted -surgeon enabled me to hope that, through his skilful nursing, I might -soon recover, and my mind became active in planning the homeward march, -and conceiving every unhappy circumstance attending it, and the -necessary measures that should be taken. I supposed Kabba Rega was aware -of the retreat of the Pasha and his people, and would do his utmost to -oppose our progress, conceded to him in imagination hundreds of rifles, -and thousands of spearmen with his allies, who use the long bows of the -Wahuma, and fancied that after him we should meet the brave and warlike -Wasongora, of whom I had heard in 1875, and then<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_212" id="page_212"></a>{212}</span> the Wanyankori, with -their king named the “Lion,” persecuting the column night and day, and -victim after victim dropping from among our living ranks; and then the -passage of the Alexandra Nile amid a rain of arrows, to encounter the no -less hostile people of Karagwé, assisted by the Waganda, and the column -daily decreasing in strength and numbers, until some day, a few, after -infinite struggles, would reach Msalala, and tell Mackay, the -missionary, the horrible scenes of disaster that had dogged us and -finally destroyed us; and lying helpless on my bed, with the murmur of -the great camp round about me, all these difficulties, arrayed by the -vividness of my imagination, had to be struggled against in some way, -and forthwith I lost myself in imaginary scenes of endless fights and -strategies along the base of the snowy range, seizing every point of -vantage, rushing into a palisaded village, and answering every shot with -two of most deadly aim; climbing a hill slope and repelling the enemy -with such spleen that they would be glad to cease the persecution. Or at -crossing of broad rivers, after a troublous search for the means, the -ambuscades protecting the ferry, or forming zeribas with frantic energy, -every man and woman assisting, the sharpshooters’ rifles keeping up the -incessant and venomous fire; Stairs, Nelson, Jephson, Parke halloing -their men with cheering voice, and every one aflame with desire to -defend the people entrusted to our charge. Or scenes of combat in the -underwood of the tropic forest, utterly heedless of the divine beauty of -tropic flowering, cool shades and merry streamlets, and absorbed only in -the sanguinary necessities of the moment. I sometimes worked myself into -such a pitch of exaltation that a fever came and clouded all, and caused -me to babble confusedly, and the Doctor, gently shaking his head, would -have to administer an opiate.</p> - -<p>Nor were these the only bugbears raised in my dazed mind. Morning after -morning came the reports as usual of plots, and seditious circles of men -drawing new nets of craft to gain something I knew not what, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_213" id="page_213"></a>{213}</span> -pleasing their cruel hearts with foretelling the most ominous events. -Many a rumour seemed to be afloat that the rebels were advancing with a -soldiery bent on destruction, and the number of those deserting the camp -by night grew greater and greater, until I had counted eighty. And then -it was told me that someone was most active in disseminating falsehoods -and inventions of terrible scenes of starvation wherein nothing but -grass would be eaten, and that there was a grand effort to be made, -because the effect of these tales was so widespread that something like -a panic had seized the people.</p> - -<p>The Pasha discovered one of his men as being most industrious at this -evil work, and had had him tried and convicted, and sent for a detail of -men to shoot him as an example. “No detail of Zanzibaris can be sent,” I -managed to whisper to Stairs. “Let the Pasha shoot his guilty man with -his own people. If he needs a guard for protection, let him have the -men, but we came to save life, not to destroy it.” And as his own people -could not be trusted to execute such an order, the man’s life was -spared.</p> - -<p>Then it was told me that one of the Lieutenant-Governor’s men had shot a -friendly native through the head, because the poor fellow had not been -quick enough in collecting fuel to please the hard-hearted slave. “Put -him in chains,” I said, “but do not kill him. Feed him and fatten him -ready for the march. He will do to carry a reserve of ammunition.”</p> - -<p>“In a few days there will be few officers left,” said Nelson. “They are -all going fast, and our labour has been in vain.” “Let them go,” I -replied. “If they do not wish to follow their Pasha, let them alone.”</p> - -<p>Then came a report that Rehan had taken with him twenty-two people, with -several rifles belonging to us.</p> - -<p>“Ah well, Stairs, my dear fellow, pick out forty good men, march to the -Nyanza. You will find the rendezvous of these fellows at the Lake Shore -camp. Be very wary, and let your capture of them be sudden and thorough, -and bring them back. By taking our rifles they have made themselves -liable.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_214" id="page_214"></a>{214}</span>”</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />April 17.<br />Mazamboni’s.</div> - -<p>On the fourth day later Lieutenant Stairs returned, having made an -excellent haul of carefully guarded prisoners, among whom was Rehan, the -ringleader.</p> - -<p>A court of officers was convened, the witnesses were summoned, and from -their evidence it was ascertained that his flight was to precede by two -days a general exodus of the Soudanese men, women, and children; that it -was a part of a deliberate plan to arm themselves at our expense, so -that, on the arrival of Selim Bey, who was daily expected, we should be -unable to make any prolonged defence. It was proved that he had -commenced his seditious practices soon after it was known that I was -seriously ill; that he had begun his intrigues by publishing the most -audacious statements respecting our cruelties when on the march; how -every officer and Soudanese would be laden with crushing loads on their -heads, that food would be denied them, and they would be told to feed on -grass. The final fall of the Equatorial Government resulted from the -scandalous falsehoods of an Egyptian clerk and lieutenant. Officers and -soldiers of the Pasha were summoned to bear witness to what they had -heard emanating from this man, and a mass of evidence, complete and -conclusive, was furnished to prove that Rehan had been guilty of most -atrocious practices, subversive of all discipline, and endangering the -safety of the Expedition and its charge. It was also proved that Rehan -had appropriated several rifles from the Expedition, with the intention -of joining Selim Bey, and finally employing our weapons and ammunition -against people who had done naught but good and kindness to him and his -friends. Thirdly, he was convicted of absconding with several women -belonging to the harems of the Egyptian officers. Fourthly, of -desertion; and fifthly, of having shot some friendly natives between our -camp and the Nyanza, after his flight from camp. The Court resolved that -on each specification the man Rehan deserved death.</p> - -<p>To my suggestion, that possibly a milder sentence, such as chaining him, -or putting him in a forked pole,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_215" id="page_215"></a>{215}</span> with a box of ammunition on his head, -would be preferable, the Court was immovable; and, reviewing the case -carefully, I concurred in the sentence, and ordered that all should -assemble to hear the charges, the finding, and the sentence.</p> - -<p>I was borne out of my bed into the presence of the people, and though to -all present I seemed to be fast drifting into that dark and unknown -world whence none return who enter, I found strength to address the -doomed man.</p> - -<p>“Rehan, we are both before God; but it is written in the book of Fate -that you shall precede me to the grave. You are a wicked man, unfit to -breathe the air among men. I found you the slave of Awash Effendi, and I -made you a freeman, and the equal of any soldier here. I remember when, -in the forest, our friends were dying daily from weakness and hunger, I -asked you to assist in carrying the ammunition for your Pasha; you -freely consented to do so for wages. When the men recovered their -strength you were relieved of your load. When you were ill, I looked -after you, and supplied you with that which made you well. You knew that -all our sufferings were undergone while carrying ammunition for you and -your friends. When the work was done, your heart became black, and you -have daily sought to do us harm. You have wished to rob us of the means -of returning home; you have tried your best, in the malice of your -heart, to wrong us; you have vilified us; you have entered the houses of -the Egyptians and stolen their women, and you have murdered our native -friends who have given us food gratuitously for the last three months; -for all of which you deserve death by suspension from that tree. A -number of men, who were your friends at one time, have tried your case -patiently and fairly, and they answer me with one voice that you shall -die.</p> - -<p>“Now, I will give you one more chance for life. Look around on these men -with whom you have eaten and drunk. If there is any one of them who will -plead for you, your life is yours.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_216" id="page_216"></a>{216}</span></p> - -<p>“What say you, Soudanese and Zanzibaris? Shall this man have life or -death?”</p> - -<p>“Death!” came from every voice unanimously.</p> - -<p>“Then <i>Yallah rabuna</i>! Depart to God!”</p> - -<p>The Soudanese with whom he had gossipped and fraternally lived in the -forest briskly stepped forward and seized him, and the Zanzibaris flung -the fatal noose around his neck. A man climbed the tree, and tossed the -rope to a hundred pair of willing hands, and at the signal marched away, -and Rehan was a silent figure hanging between earth and heaven.</p> - -<p>“Pass the word, Mr. Stairs, throughout the camp among the Pasha’s -people, and bid them come and look at the dead Rehan, that they may -think of this serious scene, and please God mend their ways.”</p> - -<p>I had a relapse that night, and for days afterwards it appeared to me -that little hope was left for me. Then my good doctor was stricken -sorely with a pernicious type of fever which has so often proved fatal -on the African seaboard of the Atlantic. For many a day he was also an -object of anxiety, and the Pasha being a medical practitioner in past -times most kindly bestirred himself to assist his friend. Then Mr. -Mounteney Jephson fell so seriously ill that one night his life was -despaired of. He was said to be in a state of collapse, and our -priceless doctor rose from his sick bed and hastened with his men -supporting him to the side of his sick comrade, and applied -restoratives, and relieved our intense anxieties, and before retiring, -he called upon me to relieve my spasms. Thus passed these dreadful days.</p> - -<p>On the 29th of April I was able to sit up in bed, and from this date to -the 7th of May there was a steady but sure improvement, though the -tongue which indicated the inflammation of the mucous membrane of the -stomach appeared to be obstinately unpromising.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />May 3.<br />Mazamboni’s.</div> - -<p><i>May 3rd.</i>—Two packets of letters were brought to me by natives in the -neighbourhood of the Lake shore, and as they were in Arabic I sent them -to the Pasha. Presently the Pasha appeared and demanded an interview. -When he was seated he informed me that there had<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_217" id="page_217"></a>{217}</span> been a mistake, for -one of the packets was a mail for Wadelai despatched some days ago from -our camp, while the other packet was the mail from Wadelai.</p> - -<p>As I was not aware of any mail having been sent away since we had -arrived at Mazamboni’s, such a packet must have been sent secretly, and -most probably with sinister intentions to us. “Therefore, Pasha, as we -are evidently in a state of war with your evil-minded people, I beg you -will be good enough to open the packet and read a few of those letters -to me, for you know everything is fair in war.”</p> - -<p>The first letter was from Shukri Agha, and was a kindly letter to his -friend Selim Bey. There was not a syllable in it that was otherwise than -sterling honesty, and honest hopes of an early meeting.</p> - -<p>The second was from Ibrahim Effendi Elham, a captain who was in the -camp. It said, “I hope you will send us fifty soldiers as soon as you -receive this letter. We have started, and are now waiting for a few days -here. <i>I pray you, in the name of God, not to delay sending these men, -because if we have them to help us, we can delay the march of the -Expedition in many ways, but if you came yourself with 200 soldiers we -could obtain all you and I wish.</i> Our friends are anxiously expecting -news from you every day. The necessity is urgent.”</p> - -<p>“That is a discovery, Pasha! Now are you satisfied that these people are -incorrigible traitors?”</p> - -<p>“Well, I should not have expected this of Ibrahim Effendi Elham. I have -been constantly kind to him. As for Selim Bey, I cannot see what he can -want.”</p> - -<p>“It is this, Pasha. In reality few of these men wish to go to Egypt. -Even Selim Bey, despite all his promises, never intended to proceed to -Egypt. They were willing to accompany you until they reached some -promising land, where there was abundance of food and cattle, and -removed from all fear of the Mahdists; they then would tell you that -they were tired of the march, that they would die if they proceeded any -farther, and you, after conferring with me, would grant them -ammunition,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_218" id="page_218"></a>{218}</span> and promise to send some more to them by-and-by. But this -ammunition would not be sufficient in their eyes, however liberal you -were. Their rifles would be too few, nothing would satisfy them but all -the rifles and ammunition and everything we possessed. Wait a moment, -Pasha, and I will reveal the whole plot to you.</p> - -<p>“After Mr. Jephson received my order last January, of course the news -soon spread as far north as your farthest station that I had arrived -with all my people and stores. They knew, though they affected to -disbelieve it, that the Khedive had sent ammunition to you. But they -were clever enough to perceive that they could get nothing from me -without an order from you. But as Jephson had fled and conveyed the news -of your deposition and imprisonment to me, even an order would scarcely -suffice. They therefore, knowing your forgiving disposition, come to -you, a deputation of them, to profess regret and penitence; they kiss -your hand and promise greatly, which you accept, and as a sign of amity -and forgiveness of the past accompany them, and introduce them to me. -You ask for a reasonable time for them, and it is granted. But so strong -was the temptation, they could not resist stealing a rifle. If they -intend to go with us, what do they wish to do with this rifle while -steaming on the Lake? Is it not a useless incumbrance to them? I suppose -that the varying strength and influence of the factions have delayed -them longer than they thought, and we have been saved from proceeding to -extremes by their dissensions.</p> - -<p>“Since I have heard Mr. Jephson’s story, and your own account which -differs but little from his, and the different versions of Awash -Effendi, Osman Latif Effendi, and the Zanzibaris, I have long ago made -up my mind what to do. These people are not those to whom you may preach -and reason with effect, their heads are too dense, and their hearts are -too hardened with lying. They can understand only what they feel, and to -make such as these feel they must receive hard knocks. When I had -thoroughly sounded the depths of their natures my mind<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_219" id="page_219"></a>{219}</span> began to -discover by what method I could master these men. There were half a -dozen methods apparently feasible, but at the end of each there was an -obstacle in my way.</p> - -<p>“You could not guess what that obstacle was, Pasha?”</p> - -<p>“No, I cannot.”</p> - -<p>“This obstacle that presented itself constantly, at the end of every -well-digested method, was yourself.”</p> - -<p>“I! How was that?”</p> - -<p>“On the 5th of April you ceased to be so, but until then, I could not -carry any scheme into execution without reference to you. You were in -our eyes the Pasha still. You were the Governor and Commander of these -people. I could not propose to you to fight them. You believed in them -constantly. Each day you said, ‘They will come, but it never came across -your mind to ask yourself, ‘What will they do after they do come, if -they find they outnumber us three to one?’ Had they come before the 5th -of April, my plan was to separate from you and leave you with them, and -form camp, with every detail of defence considered, seven or eight miles -from you. All communications were to be by letter, and guides were to be -furnished after we had gone in the advance a day’s march, to show you -the road to our last camp. No force of any magnitude would be permitted -to approach my camp without a fight.</p> - -<p>“But after the 5th of April this method was altered. I should have been -wrong were I to separate from you, because I had a proof sufficient for -myself and officers that you had no people, neither soldiers nor -servants; that you were alone. I proposed then as I propose now; should -Selim Bey reach us, not to allow Selim Bey, or one single soldier of his -force, to approach my camp with arms. Long before they approach us we -shall be in position along the track, and if they do not ground arms at -command—why, then the consequences will be on their heads. Thus you see -that since the 5th of April I have been rather wishing that they would -come. I should like nothing better than to bring this<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_220" id="page_220"></a>{220}</span> unruly mob to the -same state of order and discipline they were in before they became -infatuated with Arabi, Mahdism, and chronic rebellion. But if they come -here they must first be disarmed; their rifles will be packed up into -loads, and carried by us. Their camp shall be at least 500 yards from -us. Each march that removes them further from Wadelai will assist us in -bringing them into a proper frame of mind, and by-and-by their arms will -be restored to them, and they will be useful to themselves as well as to -us.”</p> - -<p>The day following our arrival at Mazamboni’s, Shukri Agha, Commandant of -Mswa, had at length appeared. He had started from his station with -twenty soldiers. Arriving at Kavalli on the plateau, he had but ten -left; on reaching our camp he had but two, his trumpeter and -flag-bearer. All the rest had deserted their captain. It is needless to -comment on it.</p> - -<p>It is now the 7th of May. I hear this evening that there is quite a -force at Lake Shore Camp. Preparations for departure have been made -during the last four days. We will start to-morrow. We have been in this -country since the 18th of January—110 days. If this force proposes to -follow us, they can easily overtake such a column as ours, and if they -impress me that they are really desirous of accompanying us, we will not -be adverse to granting them some more time.</p> - -<p>On the 7th of May I requested Lieutenant Stairs to bury twenty-five -cases of ammunition in the ground-floor of his house, in order that if -the rebel officers appeared and expressed earnest penitence, and begged -to be permitted to stay at Mazamboni’s, they might have means of -defence. Mr. Stairs performed this duty thoroughly and secretly.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />May 8.<br />Bunyambiri.</div> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill-220_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/ill-220_sml.jpg" width="540" height="349" alt="RESCUED EGYPTIANS AND THEIR FAMILIES." -title="RESCUED EGYPTIANS AND THEIR FAMILIES." /></a><br /> -<span class="caption">RESCUED EGYPTIANS AND THEIR FAMILIES.</span> -</p> - -<p><i>May 8th.</i>—As I was too weak to walk more than fifty yards, I was -placed in a hammock, and was borne to the front to guide the column. We -advanced westward a few miles; then, abandoning our old route to the -forest, turned southwards by a well-trodden track, and travelled along -the base of the western slope of the group of hills known as Undussuma. -We were presently<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_222" id="page_222"></a>{222}</span><a name="page_223" id="page_223"></a><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_221" id="page_221"></a>{221}</span> amongst the luxuriant fields, plantain and banana -plantations of the village of Bundegunda. The Indian corn and beans were -very flourishing, and these extended far into the fields and hollows of -the hills, a perfect marvel of exuberant plenty. It made a great and -favourable impression upon the Egyptians and their followers, and we -even wondered at the prodigious fertility of the soil and the happy -condition of the district. One reason for all this extraordinary -abundance was the protection and shelter from the cold winds blowing -from the Lake.</p> - -<p>An hour’s march beyond the limits of the cultivation of Bundegunda, -through other fields of equal fertility and productiveness, we formed -camp, or rather located ourselves, in the village of Bunyambiri, which -Mazamboni had caused to be abandoned for our necessities.</p> - -<p>As Mazamboni escorted us with 300 of his own men, and was with us in -person, free permission was given to each member of the column to range -at will among the plantations and fields. The people thus literally -feasted on the ripe fruit of the banana, and the new beans, yams, sweet -potatoes, colocassia, &c. In return for his services and hospitality, -Mazamboni received forty head of cattle and sixteen tusks of ivory, -averaging 52 lbs. each. To my shame, however, the chief complained that -his people were being detained as slaves, and Lieutenant Stairs and his -brother officers had to escort him round the villages, to discover and -restore them to him. This was so very Egyptian, however, to consider -every service performed as their due, for some virtues and graces which, -though possibly innate in them, remained hidden so long.</p> - -<p>In the afternoon three soldiers, accompanied by Ayoub Effendi, an -Egyptian clerk, made their appearance with letters from Selim Bey. They -bring an extraordinary budget of news, which will bear being related, as -it is only one more final proof of how utterly lost to all sense and -reason were the officers and soldiers of the Equatorial Province, and -how utterly incapable<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_224" id="page_224"></a>{224}</span> they were to appreciate the nature of their late -Pasha and Governor.</p> - -<p>They say that Fadl el Mulla Bey and his party appeared for a time to be -consenting to all orders received from Emin Pasha and myself through -Selim Bey Mator, and apparently busied themselves with the preparations -for departure. Selim Bey had transported all the garrison of Dufflé to -Wadelai by the steamers <i>Khedive</i> and <i>Nyanza</i>, in doing which he had -broken his promise to us, and disregarded the orders to which, when -delivered to him, he swore obedience to the letter. It will be -remembered that he had been instructed to begin the transport of the -people from Wadelai to our Lake Shore camp, that we might assist the -people with the luggage to the plateau, while the transport on the Lake -by steamers would continue, and at the same time the garrisons of the -northernmost stations could march with their families and concentrate at -Wadelai. Thus we had idly waited from the 25th February until the 8th -May in the neighbourhood of the Lake, a period of ninety-two days, for -the appearance of some of them, as a proof that they were really in -earnest in their wish to depart with us.</p> - -<p>While Selim Bey was thus carrying the troops and their families from the -lower stations to Wadelai, he was unwittingly strengthening the force of -the opposite faction, that of Fadl el Mulla Bey, and they had no sooner -joined their numbers to him than he resolved to throw off the mask. In -the dead of night he marched his troops to the magazines, and, -possessing himself of all the ammunition stored there, left Wadelai and -proceeded north-west to the country of the Makkaraka. When Selim Bey -woke next morning, he found his following to consist of 200 officers, -soldiers, and clerks, the magazines empty, and no ammunition remaining -but the forty rounds per head which had been distributed to his soldiers -a few days previously. Bitterly cursing his fate and his misfortune, he -commenced embarking his people on board the steamers, and then departed -for Mswa, where he arrived on the 22nd of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_225" id="page_225"></a>{225}</span> April, to remove south as far -as possible from all danger of the Mahdists. He had still abundance of -time, if his crass mind could only realise his position. In an hour he -could have obtained fuel sufficient from the abandoned station, and -might easily have arrived at our Lake Shore camp in nine hours’ -steaming. On the 7th May he bethinks himself of our Expedition and of -his Pasha, and dictates one letter to us, which when read by us, only -provokes a smile.</p> - -<p>It says, “We wish to know why you convert Egyptian officers and soldiers -into beasts of burden. It has been reported to us that you have cruelly -laden all with baggage, and that you convert the soldiers into porters. -This is most shameful, and we shall strictly inquire into it.”</p> - -<p>Another letter was of very different tenor. It related the treachery of -Fadl el Mulla, by whom he had been duped and abandoned, and begging us -to wait for him and his people, as absolute ruin stared them in the -face. They had but forty cartridges each, and if Kabba Rega attacked -them, they must be inevitably destroyed.</p> - -<p>The soldiers were called, and they gave us the details. Twenty soldiers -had arrived at Mazamboni’s, but only these three had volunteered to -follow us. They also pleaded most abjectly for a further delay. The -Pasha and I exchanged looks.</p> - -<p>“But, my friends,” I asked, “how can we be sure that Selim Bey intends -coming after all?”</p> - -<p>“He will be sure to do so this time.”</p> - -<p>“But why is he waiting at Mswa? Why not have come himself with his -steamer to the Lake Shore camp? It is only nine hours’ journey.”</p> - -<p>“He heard through some deserters that you had gone on.”</p> - -<p>“It might have been easy for him to have overtaken such a big caravan as -this, with the few people whom he leads.”</p> - -<p>“But everything is going wrong. There are too many counsellors with -Selim Bey, and the Egyptian<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_226" id="page_226"></a>{226}</span> clerks fill his ears with all kinds of -stories. He is honest in his wishes to leave the land, but the others -bewilder us all with their falsehoods.”</p> - -<p>“Well, we cannot stay here to await Selim Bey. I will go on slowly—a -couple of hours a day. I must keep these people marching, otherwise the -Pasha will be left alone. When we have crossed the Semliki River, we -will choose a place on the other side a few days, and then move slowly -again for a day or two, and halt. If Selim Bey is serious in his -intentions, he will soon overhaul us; and, besides, when we reach the -river we will send him a guide that will enable him to travel in four -days what will take us twelve days. You will carry a letter from the -Pasha to him explaining all this. But you must take care to be kind to -the natives, otherwise they will not help you.”</p> - -<p>Among our Egyptians there was one called Ali Effendi, a captain, who -complained of heart disease. He had been ailing for months. He had nine -men and nine women servants, and, in addition to these, twelve carriers -were allotted to him. His baggage numbered twenty loads. He could not -travel 100 yards; he had also a child of six years that was too small to -walk. He required six carriers more, and there was not one to be -obtained, unless I authorised levying carriers by force from the -natives, an act that would have to be repeated day by day. We persuaded -this man to return, as a few days’ march would finish him. As he would -not return without his family of fifteen persons, we consigned them to -the charge of the couriers of Selim Bey, who would escort him back to -their chief.</p> - -<p>The guides promised to this dilatory and obtuse Soudanese colonel were -despatched, according to promise, with a letter from the Pasha; and -though we loitered, and halted, and made short journeys of between one -and three hours’ march for a month longer, this was the last -communication we had with Selim Bey. What became of him we never -discovered, and it is useless to try to conjecture. He was one of those -men with whom it was impossible to reason, and upon whose<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_227" id="page_227"></a>{227}</span> understanding -sense has no effect. He was not wicked nor designing, but so stupid that -he could only comprehend an order when followed by a menace and weighted -with force; but to a man of his rank and native courage, no such order -could be given. He was therefore abandoned as a man whom it was -impossible to persuade, and still less compel.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_228" id="page_228"></a>{228}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXVII" id="CHAPTER_XXVII"></a>CHAPTER XXVII.<br /><br /> -<small>EMIN PASHA.—A STUDY.</small></h2> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hangg">The Relief of David Livingstone compared with the Relief of Emin -Pasha—Outline of the journey of the Expedition to the first -meeting with Emin—Some few points relating to Emin on which we had -been misinformed—Our high conception of Emin Pasha—Loyalty of the -troops, and Emin’s extreme indecision—Surprise at finding Emin a -prisoner on our third return to the Nyanza—What might have been -averted by the exercise of a little frankness and less reticence on -Emin’s part—Emin’s virtue and noble desires—The Pasha from our -point of view—Emin’s rank and position in Khartoum, and gradual -rise to Governor of Equatoria—Gordon’s trouble in the -Soudan—Emin’s consideration and patience—After 1883 Emin left to -his own resources—Emin’s small explorations—Correctness of what -the Emperor Hadrian wrote of the Egyptians—The story of Emin’s -struggles with the Mahdi’s forces from 1883 to 1885—Dr. Junker -takes Emin’s despatches to Zanzibar in 1886—Kabba Rega a declared -enemy of Emin—The true position of Emin Pasha prior to his relief -by us, showing that good government was impossible—Two documents -(one from Osman Digna, and the other from Omar Saleh) received from -Sir Francis Grenfell, the Sirdar.</p></div> - -<p>Now that we have actually turned our backs to the Equatoria, and are -“homeward bound” with Emin Pasha, Captain Casati, and a few hundreds of -fugitives in company, let us look back upon the late events, and try to -discover the causes of them, and in what light we may truthfully regard -the late governor.</p> - -<p>When I was commissioned, while yet a very young man, for the relief of -David Livingstone, the missionary, I had no very fixed idea as to what -manner of man he was. The newspapers described him as worthy of the -Christian world’s best regard; privately men whispered strange things of -him. One, that he had married an African princess, and was comfortably -domiciled in Africa; another, that he was something of a misanthrope, -and would take care to maintain a discreet distance from<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_229" id="page_229"></a>{229}</span> any European -who might be tempted to visit him. Not knowing whom to believe, I -proceeded to him with indifference, ready to take umbrage, but I parted -from him in tears. The newspapers were right in his case.</p> - -<p>In the instance of Emin Pasha, the newspapers, inspired by travellers -who were supposed to know him, described a hero, a second Gordon, a -tall, military-looking figure, austere in manners, an amateur in many -sciences, who, despite the universal misfortune hovering over a large -part of North-Central Africa, maintained evenness of mind, tranquillity -of soul, and governed men and things so well that he was able to keep -the Mahdi and his furious hordes at bay; that he had defeated his -generals several times, but that so severe and desperate had been his -resistance that he had almost exhausted his means. Like my personal -friends, who so generously subscribed the money for this expedition, it -filled me with pity to hear all this, as it filled the hearts of such -men as Stairs, Jephson, Nelson, Parke, Barttelot, Jameson, and many -hundreds of eager applicants for membership. Junker said his danger was -imminent; that the Pasha must yield before the overwhelming forces -arrayed against him, if not soon relieved. We seemed to feel that it was -true. On board the steamer while at sea, and during our journey up the -Congo, within the camp at Yambuya, while pressing on through the sullen -shades of the endless forest, until we stood on the verge of the -plateau—nay, until we stood on the shore of the Nyanza, the one fear -that had possessed us was that, notwithstanding every effort, we should -be also too late. Then only, when the natives on the Lake side averred, -to our eager and insistent enquiries, that they knew of no white man or -steamer being on the Lake, were we tempted to utter our suspicions. But -it was yet too early to declaim; the overland couriers from Zanzibar -might have been delayed, the steamer may have foundered soon after -Junker’s departure, and Emin may have been unable to reach the -south-west end of the Lake.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_230" id="page_230"></a>{230}</span></p> - -<p>After an absence of nearly four months we were again on the Lake shore. -There were letters awaiting us from him. He had heard a rumour by -accident of our arrival, and had steamed down to the south-west end of -the Lake to verify it. It was only nine hours distant from his -southernmost station, and this had been his first visit. The effect was -excellent, but it was a great pity that he had not conformed to the -request sent by couriers at so much expense from Zanzibar. For the mere -number of lives saved it would have been better; we will say nothing of -the fatigue and suffering endured by us during the four months, for we -were vowed to that, and to the uttermost that he would demand and our -mission would exact. Still we said nothing.</p> - -<p>We were twenty-six days together after the meeting. During this period -we discovered that on some few points we had been misinformed. The Pasha -was not a tall military figure, nor was he by any means a Gordon. He was -simply Emin Pasha, with a greatness peculiar to himself. He was like -unto none that we had met before, but he was like unto some, perhaps, -that we had read of.</p> - -<p>We knew nothing positively detracting from our high conception of him. -What we saw was entirely in his favour. We witnessed what we conceived -to be a high state of discipline among the troops; we saw the steamers, -and the admirable state they were in; we thought we saw evidences of a -strong civilising and ruling influence; we obtained specimens of the -cloth his people had manufactured out of cotton grown by themselves; we -had a plentiful supply of liquor distilled from fermented millet; he was -exquisitely clean in person; prim, precise, withal courteous in manner; -he was extremely kind and affable, accomplished in literature, an -entertaining conversationalist, a devoted physician, an altogether -gentle man, whom to know was to admire. Had we parted with him at this -time we should have come away from his presence simply charmed with him. -No, decidedly he was not a Gordon; he differed greatly from Gordon in -some things—as, for example, in his devotion to science, in his -careful<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_231" id="page_231"></a>{231}</span> attention to details, in his liberal and charitable views of -men and things, in his high desire to elevate and instruct men in -practical usefulness, and his noble hopefulness of the land which was -the scene of his efforts.</p> - -<p>But while we admired him, a suspicion fixed itself in our minds that -there was something inexplicable about him. He sent a clerk and an -Egyptian lieutenant to speak with me. To my amazement they roundly -abused him. Each word they uttered they emphasized with hate and -indescribable scorn.</p> - -<p>Then a Soudanese captain related to me the story of a revolt of the 1st -Battalion which had taken place soon after Dr. Junker had parted from -him. He had fled from their neighbourhood, and had never been near them -since. But the 2nd Battalion, 650 rifles, was faithful to him, it was -said, so were the irregulars, 3000 in number. These formed a very -respectable force. So long as the 2nd Battalion and the irregulars were -loyal his position was still firm.</p> - -<p>Then the major and several captains of the 2nd Battalion were introduced -by him to me. After a while he said to the major, “Now, promise me, -before Mr. Stanley, that you will grant me forty men for this little -station that Mr. Stanley advises us ought to be built.” That is curious, -too, for a Governor, I thought, and, try how I might to avoid reflecting -upon it as a trifle, its strangeness reverted often to my mind. But, in -the absence of frank information, it remained inexplicable.</p> - -<p>Then, again, it struck us all that an extreme indecision marked the -Pasha’s conduct. Of course, as we were unable to explain it, our -sympathies undoubtedly were with him. We did not consider the 1st -Battalion, but if the 2nd Battalion and the irregulars were all loyal to -him, and were yet firm in their resolution to remain in the country, it -would have required a heart of stone to have abandoned them. That the -few Egyptians who were involved in restless intrigue against him wished -to go home was of no importance. The Pasha led us to believe that he -would be glad of their departure. But if the majority of the troops were -loyal, and preferred<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_232" id="page_232"></a>{232}</span> Equatoria to Egypt, and he loved his work, where -then was the cause of indecision?</p> - -<p>If Egypt intended to cast him off, what matter need it be to him? Here -was this offer of £12,000 annual subsidy, and £1500 salary to reimplace -Egypt.</p> - -<p>Or if Egypt only was objectionable, and another portion of Equatoria -under English auspices would be preferable, there was the alternative -with superior advantages of regular communication and certain support.</p> - -<p>When speaking of the troops—the 2nd Battalion and irregulars—Emin -Pasha was confident in their loyalty, and always stout in his -declarations that they would follow him if he elected to serve under -English auspices in Equatoria. He also said that it was by far the most -preferable offer made to him. Well, then, admitting that the troops are -loyal to him, that they would follow him anywhere, and that the offer is -agreeable to himself—why this indecision?</p> - -<p>We were compelled to retrace that weary journey to Banalya, and -returning to Fort Bodo to make double marches thence to the Ituri, and -arriving at the Nyanza for the third time, after an absence of eight and -a half months, we discovered that the object of our solicitude was a -prisoner, and that all the troops reputed loyal, and in whom he had such -implicit faith, were rebels, and had deposed him! This news was a -painful shock and a grievous surprise to us. But was it a surprise to -him?</p> - -<p>When we come to glance over his letters, and study them with the -knowledge we now have, it transpires that in many of them he hints at -troubles and dissensions among his troops, but led by his sanguine -optimistic nature they were regarded too slightingly by us. People at -home believed that they were but temporary ebullitions of discontent. We -in Africa knew only that the 1st Battalion were implicated. Dr. Junker -had not even deemed them of sufficient importance to mention—he only -expressed a doubt that Emin would abandon his civilising mission and -relegate himself to a useless life in Egypt as a retired Pasha, hence -the doubt implied in the Khedive’s letter: “You may take<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_233" id="page_233"></a>{233}</span> advantage of -Mr. Stanley’s escort, if you please; if you decline doing so, you remain -in Africa on your own responsibility.” But Mr. Jephson, who is -associated with Emin during our absence, no sooner finds himself within -the military circles of the Province than it strikes him that the Pasha -has kept us in ignorance of the “true state of affairs.” The -dissatisfaction of Mr. Jephson culminates when he finds himself a -prisoner, and finds leisure to ponder upon the unhappy prospect of being -paraded through the streets of Khartoum as the Khalifa’s syce, or slave, -and my own may be forgiven when I find by indisputable proofs that this -might have been averted by the exercise of a little frankness and less -reticence on the Pasha’s part.</p> - -<p>For had the Pasha informed me that he could not lead his troops to -Egypt, nor accept the subsidy and pay offered him, nor accept the -position under English auspices, because his troops had long ago cast -off all allegiance and had become chronically disloyal, and that he -really could not depend upon any one company of them, something else -might have been proposed. It could not have been a difficult matter to -have attacked every station in detail and reduced one after another to a -wholesome dread of authority. It needed only firmness and resolution on -the part of the Pasha. Had we begun at Mswa we should have found sixty -soldiers led by Shukri Agha, who has as yet not been implicated in any -disloyal act. These could have been embarked with our 300 on board the -steamer, and we could have advanced upon Tunguru. In thirty minutes that -station might have been settled, the disobedient shot, and marching with -the prestige of authority and victory, Wadelai would have succumbed -without the loss of a man except the ringleaders; and the other -stations, hearing of these successive measures, would soon have been so -terrified that we should have heard of nothing but capitulation -everywhere. The Madhi’s troops being at one end of the line of stations -and a resolute column advancing from the other end, these rebels would -have had no other option than surrender to one or the other.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_234" id="page_234"></a>{234}</span></p> - -<p>But supposing that such a course had been adopted, of what avail, we may -well ask, would all this have been? Emin Pasha has been reinstalled in -his power and we must of necessity retire. What, then? In a few months -he is again in terrible straits for want of resources, and another call -for £30,000 and a new expedition is made to be repeated year after year, -at immense cost of life and immense sacrifices; for a land so distant -from the sea, and surrounded by warlike peoples and other disadvantages, -that were its soil of silver dust it would scarcely pay the transport. -Yet if Emin Pasha had expressed his desire to embark upon such an -enterprise, and been firm in his resolution, it was not for us to -question the wisdom of his proceeding, but to lend the right hand and -act with good-will.</p> - -<p>Was it a delusion on the Pasha’s part, or was it his intention to -mislead us? I believe it was the former, caused by his extraordinary -optimism and his ready faith in the external show or affectation of -obedience. Even the crafty Egyptians had become penetrated with a high -sense of their power by the facility with which they gained pardon for -offences by ostentatious and obsequious penitence. Is this too harshly -worded? Then let me say in plain Anglo-Saxon, that I think his good -nature was too prone to forgive, whenever his inordinate self-esteem was -gratified. The cunning people knew they had but to express sorrow and -grief to make him relent, and to kiss his hands to cause him to forget -every wrong. There was therefore too little punishing and too much -forgiving. This amiability was extremely susceptible and tender, and the -Egyptians made the most of it. The Yakeel had cause to bless it. Awash -Effendi, major of the 2nd Battalion, suggested to the rebels, by a -letter which I believe the Pasha still possesses, that he should be made -the Mudir instead Emin, yet the Pasha never even reproached him. Azra -Effendi declared the Khedive’s letter to be forgery, but never a rebuke -passed the lips of the Pasha, and Azra was conducted to the sea safely.</p> - -<p>The virtues and noble desires for which we must in<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_235" id="page_235"></a>{235}</span> strict justice -commend the man are as great and as creditable to him as those which we -cannot attribute to him. Any man striving for the sake of goodness to do -what in him lies to deserve the sweet approval of conscience becomes -armoured with a happy indifference of all else, and herein lies the -Pasha’s merit, and which made his company so grateful to us when the -necessity for violent action ceased to vex him. We learned more of his -character from his manner than from words. That melancholy shake of the -head, the uplifted hand, the composed calm gravity of features, the -upturning eyes, and the little shrug, seemed to say to us, “What is the -use? You see I am resigned. I am adverse to violence; let it be. Why -force them? They surely ought to have seen during these many years that -I sought only their welfare. If they reject me, ought I to impose myself -and my ideas on them against their will?” He never admitted so much, but -we are free to construe these symptoms according to our lights.</p> - -<p>It is probable that his steady and loving devotion to certain pursuits -tending to increase of knowledge, and the injured eyesight, unfitted him -for the exercise of those sterner duties which appeared to us the -circumstances of his sphere demanded. But then we cannot blame him -because he loved scientific studies more than the duties of government, -or because his tastes led him to value the title of M.D. higher than the -rank of Pasha, or because he was in danger through a cataract of losing -his eyesight altogether. If the page of a book had to be brought within -two inches of his face it was physically impossible for him to observe -the moods on a man’s face, or to judge whether the eyes flashed scorn or -illumined loyalty.</p> - -<p>Whatever may have been our own views of what ought to have been done we -have always a high respect for him. We cannot, at a moment when his own -fate lies trembling on the balance, but admire him when we see him -availing himself of every opportunity to increase his store of -lacustrine shells, or tropic plants, eager for the possession of a -strange bird without regard to its colour or beauty,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_236" id="page_236"></a>{236}</span> as ready to -examine with interest a new species of rat as he is in the measurements -of a human skull. If a great hawk-moth or a strange longicorn, or a -typhlops be brought to him, he forthwith forgets the court-martial that -is to decide his sentence, and seems to be indifferent whether he is to -be summoned to be shot by his soldiery or to be strapped on his -<i>angarep</i> to be deported as a prize to the Khalifa at Khartoum. When we -learn all this about him, and begin to understand him, though wondering -at these strange vagaries of human nature, we are only conscious that -the man is worth every sacrifice on our part.</p> - -<p>We cannot proceed by force to save him from himself, and rudely awake -him out of his dream, without his permission. His position forbids -it—our commission does not require it. To us he is only an honoured -guest expectant, to whom rudeness is out of place. Without request for -help, we are helpless.</p> - -<p>From our point of view we observe the Pasha, serene and tranquil, -encircled by wrangling rebels, and yet all along apparently unconscious -of the atmosphere of perfidy in which he lives—at least more inclined -to resignation than resistance. We feel that were we in his place, we -would speedily upset every combination against us, and are confident -that only one short resolute struggle is necessary to gain freedom and -power. But regarding him absorbed in his delusion that the fawning -obsequiousness of his perfidious followers and troops means devotion, -and seeing him enmeshed by treachery and fraud, and yet so credulous as -to believe this to be fidelity, we are struck dumb with amazement, and -can but turn our eyes towards one another, questioning and wondering. -For it was our misfortune, that, say what we would, we could not inspire -in him a sense of our conviction that his case was hopeless, and that -his people had cast him off utterly. We could not tell him that his men -looked down on him with contempt as a “bird collector,” that they -thought he showed more interest in beetles than in men; that they only -paid him the externals of homage because they thought he<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_237" id="page_237"></a>{237}</span> was pleased -and satisfied. We could not tell him all this; but Nelson, who hated -deceit, would tell him in plain, blunt terms, that he was wrong in his -beliefs, and Parke would discourage them; and Jephson would argue with -him, and Stairs would give him open proof. But as often as these -energetic young Englishmen, out of pure friendship and pity, would -attempt to warn him, the Pasha was prompt to extenuate their offences, -and excuse the malice exhibited by his officers, and discouraged the -efforts of his friends. What each felt on returning from one of these -profitless interviews had better be left unwritten.</p> - -<p>He would say, “But I know my people better than you can possibly know -them. I have thirteen years’ acquaintance with them, against as many -weeks that you have.”</p> - -<p>The retort which we might have given to him was crushed under a silent -fuming, for he was still the Pasha! We might have said, “Aye; but, -Pasha, you know, you find more interest in insects than in men. You are -interested in the anatomy of a man, we in the soul. You know something -of his skull, but we can feel the pulse, and we are certain that your -faith in these men is misplaced, and that in the excess of this faith -lies folly.”</p> - -<p>Yet in the fervour of his belief in their imaginary fidelity, and the -warmth of his manner, there was a certain nobility which deterred us -from argument. His unwarying trustfulness was not convincing; but it -deepened our regard for him, and it may be that he imbued us with a hope -that, though invisible to us, there remained some good in them.</p> - -<p>We dare not treat these features of a trustful, loving nature like that -of Emin Pasha with an insolent levity. He is a man, as I have said, -eminently lovable, and were it only for the pleasure we have oftentimes -received in his society, he deserves that what may be said of him shall -be delivered with charity at least. For the high though impossible hopes -entertained by him, and for the strenuous industry with which he -endeavoured to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_238" id="page_238"></a>{238}</span> realize them, he deserves the greatest honour and -respect.</p> - -<p>If we will only consider the accident which brought him to Khartoum, and -the rank and position he then filled, and the manner he rose from doctor -to storekeeper at Lado, to that of Governor of African Equatoria, we -need not wonder that his nature and taste remained unchanged. The story -of Gordon’s trouble in the Soudan has never been written, and it never -will be. Gordon is a name that English people do not care to examine and -define too closely. Otherwise, I should like to know why there were so -few English officers with him. I should be curious to discover why such -as had an opportunity of working with him did not care to protract their -stay in the Soudan. I am inclined to believe by my own troubles on the -Congo that his must have been great—perhaps greater; that not one of -the least of his troubles must have been the difficulty of finding good, -fit, serviceable, and willing men. In Emin Pasha he meets with a man -who, though a German and a doctor of medicine, is industrious, civil, -ready, and obliging. Had I met Emin on the Congo, those qualities would -have endeared him to me, as they must have been appreciated by Gordon. -Those qualities are much rarer than editors of newspapers imagine. Out -of three hundred officers on the Congo, I can only count ten who -possessed them, who by mere request would seize on their duties with -goodwill, and perform them. How many did Gordon have? Emin was one of -the best and truest.</p> - -<p>Now Emin loved botanizing, ornithology, entomology, studied geology, -made notes upon ethnology, and meteorology, and filled note-book after -note-book with his observations, and at the same time did not neglect -his correspondence. I know the courtesy with which he would write to the -Governor-General. I can imagine how the latter would be pleased with -receiving these letters—precise, careful, methodical, and polite. -Therefore Emin is pushed on in his African career from storekeeper to -chief of station, then envoy to Uganda,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_239" id="page_239"></a>{239}</span> then offered a secretaryship, -then envoy of Gordon, then vice-king to the astute and subtle Kabba -Rega, and finally Governor of Equatoria.</p> - -<p>In the course of his promotions, Emin shows he is ambitious. He wants -seeds for the fields; he applies to Gordon for them, and his reply is, -“I don’t want you for a gardener; I sent you to govern. If you don’t -like it, come away.” A proud young Englishman would have taken him at -his word, descended the Nile, and parted with Gordon sulkily. Emin sent -an apology, and wrote, “Very good, sir.” Later, Emin sent for a -photograph apparatus, and receives, “I sent you to the Equatorial -Provinces as governor, not as photographer.” Emin says in reply, “Very -well, sir. I thank you, sir. I will do my duty.” Nor does he bother the -Governor-General with complaints that he never gets his mails in due -time, or of the provisions sent there to him. What a valuable man he -was! He showed consideration and patience, and Gordon appreciated all -this.</p> - -<p>By-and-by came trouble. After 1883 he is left to his own resources. The -people obey the Governor mechanically, and stations are building, and a -quiet progress is evident. They do not know yet how soon that Cromwell -at Khartoum may not ascend the Nile to Lado, and examine into the state -of affairs with his own eyes. Emin Bey, their Governor, is a very mild -ruler; that other one at Khartoum is in the habit of shooting mutineers. -Therefore, though there are many Arabists, and many inclined to that new -prophet, the Mahdi, among the troops of Emin, they are quiet. But -presently news leak that Khartoum is fallen, and Gordon slain, and all -power and stern authority prostrate; then comes the upheaval—the revolt -of the First Battalion and the flight of Emin to his more faithful -Irregulars and the Second Battalion, and finally universal dissolution -of the government. But Emin’s tastes and nature remain unchanged.</p> - -<p>There are some things, however, I have wondered at in Emin. I have -already observed that he was earnest and industrious in making -observations upon plants,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_240" id="page_240"></a>{240}</span> insects, birds, manners and customs, so that -he was well equipped for geographical exploration; but I was somewhat -staggered when I learned that he had not explored Lake Albert. He -possessed two steamers and two life-boats, and one station at the -north-west end of the Lake called Tunguru, and another called Mswa, -half-way up the west side; and yet he had never visited the southern end -of the Lake, examined the affluent at the south side, sounded the Lake -from the north to south and east to west; never visited the Ituri River, -which was only two days’ good marching from Mswa. Had he done so he -would probably have seen the snowy range and left very little for us to -discover in that district. He had been to Monbuttu Land on business of -his province, where he had vast stores of ivory treasured; he had sent -soldiers to the edge of Turkan territory; he had been twice to Uganda -and once to Unyoro; but he had never stepped on board his steamer for a -visit to the south end of the Lake until March, 1888, when he came to -enquire into a report concerning our arrival, and then he had steamed -back again to his stations.</p> - -<p>The Emperor Hadrian wrote of the Egyptians that he found them “frivolous -and untrustworthy, fluttering at every wave of rumour, and were the most -revolutionary, excitable and criminal race in existence.”</p> - -<p>Had he been present in our camp during our tedious sojourn at Kavalli’s, -could he have written differently? The revolutionary character disclosed -to us compel us to endorse this description as perfect truth. -“Frivolous” we know them to be to our cost. “Untrustworthy:” were ever -men so faithless as these? “Fluttering at every wave of rumour:” our -camp bred rumours as the ground bred flies; there were as many as the -chirpings of an aviary; the least trifle caused them to flutter like a -brood from under the mother bird. A mail from Wadelai caused them to run -gadding from one circle to another, from hut to hut, from the highest to -the lowest, emulating the cackle of many hens. “Revolutionary:”—“Up -with Arabi!” “Vive le<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_241" id="page_241"></a>{241}</span> Mahdi!” “Hurrah for Fadl el Mullah Bey!” “More -power to the elbow of Selim Bey Mator!” and “Down with all Governments!” -And thus they proved themselves an excitable, frivolous, untrustworthy, -and criminal race which required government by stern force, not by -sentiment and love.</p> - -<p>But relieved from the dread of due penalty and the coercive arm of the -law by the fall of Khartoum and the death of the Governor-General, and -recognising that their isolation from Egypt gave them scope to follow -their vain imaginings, they were not long before they disclosed their -true characters, and revolted against every semblance of authority. -Happy was the Pasha, then, that the good record he had won in the -memories of his soldiers pleaded against the excesses to which their -unprincipled chiefs were inclined, which generally follows the ruin of -government.</p> - -<p>These were the people—practised in dissimulation, adepts in deceit, and -pastured in vice—which this mild-mannered man, this student of science, -governed for several years all alone, before any outbreak among them -occurred. During this portion of his career as Governor of Equatoria -only unqualified praise can be given. The troops were not all seized -with the mania prevalent in the Soudan, to uproot every vestige of -authority.</p> - -<p>To the north, west, and east gathered the Mahdists, barring all escape -by the Nile and cutting off all communication with Khartoum. On the 7th -of May, 1883, the first disaster occurs. Seventy soldiers are massacred -at El-del station who have been sent to reinforce the beleaguered -garrison, which, in its turn, is totally destroyed. On the 27th of -February, 1884, Lupton, the Governor of Bahr-el-Ghazal, informs him that -the rest of the inhabitants had rebelled, and on the 28th of the -following month he receives the news of the destruction of General -Hicks’s army. On the 8th of April, the news is brought that the tribes -of Waddiafen, Elyat, Eofen, Euknah, Kanel, and Fakam were in open -rebellion. On the 30th of May he is informed by Lupton Bey, Governor of -the Bahr-el-Ghazal, that the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_242" id="page_242"></a>{242}</span> Mahdi is within six hours of his -headquarters, and had summoned him to surrender his authority and -province, and warning him to take immediate steps for his defence. Four -days later, Karamalla—who in the meantime, had been appointed Governor -of Equatoria by the Mahdi to fill his place—wrote to him to deliver up -his province to him. Lupton Bey had already been vanquished. A committee -of six officers having debated this serious matter, came to the -conclusion that Emin had no other option open to him than to surrender. -In order to gain time he expressed his willingness to conform with their -decision, and despatched the judge of their province with some other -officers with the declaration of his readiness to yield.<a name="FNanchor_12_12" id="FNanchor_12_12"></a><a href="#Footnote_12_12" class="fnanchor">[12]</a></p> - -<p>But on the departure of the Commission, he set about fortifying the -stations in his charge, and prepared for resistance against Karamalla, -then fresh from the conquest of the Bahr-el-Ghazal. He concentrated -troops from the petty stations in the vicinity at Amadi station, and -strengthened that place against the expected attack of that proud chief, -and also gathered at headquarters a formidable force. At this critical -period he was able to weed out the most forward in their desire for -submission to the Mahdi, and to separate the loyal from the disloyal, -and vigorous orders were issued that traitors would meet with no mercy -at his hands if found communicating with the enemy. Arbeek, Ayak, and -Wafi Stations are abandoned, and the troops are gathered at Amadi. The -month following witnesses the struggle proceeding. Some of the principal -stations are so well defended that the Mahdists suffer repeated losses -of chiefs and men, while many of the Government officers have basely -abandoned their posts, and take service with Karamalla; but on the 27th -February, 1885, a month after the fall of Khartoum, the enemy has -surrounded Amadi on all sides, and a brisk siege is maintained.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_243" id="page_243"></a>{243}</span> On the -first of April, after extraordinary efforts, the fall of Amadi is -announced, with great loss of life, ammunition, cannon, small arms, and -rockets. After hearing of this disaster, measures are taken for the -concentration of the force of the Province along the Nile, in order to -secure means of communication with Egypt <i>viâ</i> Zanzibar, and Birri, -Kirri, Bedden and Rejaf stations are founded, and out of the soldiers -who have managed to escape with life from the many skirmishes and fights -in which they were engaged, during 1883, 1884, to this date (April 1885) -eight companies of eighty men each are formed, and called the First -Battalion, under the command of Major Rehan Agha Ibrahim. On the 1st of -June, after the small outlying stations have been abandoned, a -sufficient number of officers have been collected to form a second -Battalion, under the command of Major Awash Effendi Montazir, to whom -was given the command of the southern stations. In his despatch of 1st -September, 1885, to the Government of Egypt, we observe near the close -of it the first note of discontent with the Major of the First -Battalion. He says:</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>“The other thing that this major has done is his sending 200 -soldiers when it was too late and when everything was finished, -which thing he did from want of decision and without asking my -permission to do so; for if the rebels were strong at first before -their capture of guns and ammunition, how much more so were they -after that. <i>But these disobediences have become a nature to these -persons, &c., &c.</i> But by the help of our merciful and great God, -and by the influence of our Government, and by the name of our -honourable Sovereign his Highness the Khedive, we were able to -preserve the honour of our Government flag up to this date.”</p></div> - -<p>Yes, the honour of the Egyptian flag has been maintained, after the -shedding of “rivers of blood,” after the exhibition of noble -stout-heartedness, unabated courage, and a prudent Fabian generalship, -which dispirited the enemy and animated his troops; he has been able to -align his troops in stations well fenced and fortified, so that the -struggle may be prolonged until he can hear the wishes of his Highness -the Khedive, and sound his plaint in the ears of Europe <i>viâ</i> Zanzibar. -It is the story of this brave struggle that enlisted the sympathy of -myself and companions, and caused us to press on by<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_244" id="page_244"></a>{244}</span> the back door of -Africa to lend a helping hand, to rescue him if necessary, or to supply -him with the means of defence if needed.</p> - -<p>In April 1885 he learns “from the poor slave of God, Mohammed El Mahdi, -the son of Abdallah,” in a letter to his friend and Governor Karamalla, -the son of Sheik Mohammed, to whom may God grant etc., of the death of -“that enemy to God—Gordon,” and of the assault and capture of Khartoum, -and that all the Soudan from Lado down to Abu Hamad Cataract, is in the -hands of the Mahdists, and that from the north no hope of relief may be -expected. He examines his prospects and position to the south, east and -west. To the east is Kabba Rega, the King of Unyoro, and his tributary -chiefs. To him he sends Captain Casati as his representative or -ambassador. It is the policy of Kabba Rega to be kind to the Governor. -He knew him in past years as an officer of that active vice-king at -Khartoum, and was hospitable and friendly to him. He knows not as yet of -the wonderful changes that have come over that region of Africa, and is -ignorant of the ruin that had overtaken that proud Government which had -dictated laws to him. His African mind is too dense to grasp the meaning -of this new movement abreast of his territory, and therefore, fearing to -displease the Governor, he receives Captain Casati generously and with a -grand display of hospitality. By-and-by deserters approach him, cunning -Egyptians and treacherous Soudanese, with their arms and ammunition, and -bit by bit he discovers the meaning of that fierce struggle, and begins -to understand that the Government which he dreaded was a wreck.</p> - -<p>On the 2nd of January, 1886, Dr. Junker is taken across the Albert Lake -to Kibiro, a port of Unyoro. He is on his way home after years of travel -in Monbuttu and the Welle basin. He succeeds in reaching Uganda, and -because of his poverty is permitted to embark in a mission boat and -proceeds to Usambiro, at the south end of Lake Victoria, and thence to -Zanzibar, taking with him the despatches of Emin. It is through this -traveller<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_245" id="page_245"></a>{245}</span> we first learn the real straits that the Pasha is in, and the -distresses in prospect for him.</p> - -<p>Kabba Rega meanwhile is patient, like an heir-expectant. He knows that -eventually he must win. Day by day, week by week, he sits waiting. He -affects generosity to the Governor, permits letters to pass and repass -between Zanzibar and Equatoria, treats the Ambassador with due -consideration, and ostensibly he is a firm friend; so much so, that Emin -has “nothing but hearty praises of Kabba Rega.” But about the 13th -February, 1888, Kabba Rega wakes up. He hears of an Expedition close to -the Nyanza, and native exaggeration has magnified its means and numbers. -On or about the same date that the Relief Expedition is looking up and -down the waters of the Nyanza for evidences of a white man’s presence in -the region, Captain Casati is seized, his house robbed, and himself -expelled with every mark of ignominy and almost naked, and from this -time forth Kabba Rega is a declared enemy, having first sealed his -enmity in the blood of Mohammed Biri, who had been a trusted messenger -between Emin and the C.M.S. Mission in Uganda.</p> - -<p>To the west there is a great broad white blank, extending from his -Province to the Congo, of which absolutely nothing is known. To the -south there is a region marked on the map by the same white emptiness, -and turn which way he will, with a people unequal to the task of cutting -their way out and dreading the unknown, he has no other option than -waiting to see the effect of the disclosures of Junker and his own -despatches.</p> - -<p>But in the meantime he is not idle. By the defeat of the rebels and -Mahdists in Makkaraka he has compelled a truce, and is left undisturbed -by Karamalla. Beyond Wadelai he has established Tunguru and Mswa -stations, and though the First Battalion has long ago cast off his -authority, the Second Battalion and the Native Irregulars acknowledge, -after their way, his authority. He superintends agriculture, the -planting, raising, and manufacture of cotton, travels between station -and station, establishes friendship with the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_246" id="page_246"></a>{246}</span> surrounding tribes, and by -his tact maintains the semblance of good government.</p> - -<p>There are some things, however, he cannot do: he cannot undo the evil -already done; he cannot eradicate the evil dispositions of his men, nor -can he, by only the exercise of temperate justice, appease the evil -passions roused by the revolution in the Soudan. He can only postpone -the hour of revolt. For against his sole influence are arrayed the -influences of the officers of the First Battalion, of the hundreds of -Egyptian employés scattered over the whole length of the Province, who, -by their insidious counsels, reverse the effect of every measure taken -by the Pasha, and palsy every effort made by him. He cannot inaugurate, -by the expression of his wish, a new system of dealing with the natives. -The system has been established throughout the Soudan of exacting from -the natives every species of contribution—herds, flocks, grain, and -servants; or, whenever there is scarcity, of proceeding by force of arms -and taking what they need from the aborigines. And this need, -unfortunately, is insatiable; it has no limit. The officers cannot be -limited to a certain number; each has three or four wives, besides -concubines, and these require domestic servants for their households. -Fadl el Mulla Bey’s household requires a hundred slaves—men, women, -boys, and girls. The soldiers require wives, and these also must have -servants; and with the growth of the boys into manhood there grows new -needs, which the natives must satisfy with their women and children of -both sexes.</p> - -<p>There are 650 men and officers in the First Battalion, and as many in -the Second Battalion. There are about 3,000 Irregulars; there is a -little army of clerks, storekeepers, artisans, engineers, captains, and -sailors. These must be wived, concubined, and fed by the natives, and in -return there is nothing given to them. We hear of 8,000 head of cattle -being collected on a raid; the Pasha admitted that 1,600 beeves and cows -was the greatest number during his government. But these raids are -frequent; each station must have herds of its own, and there are -fourteen stations. Shukri Agha,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_247" id="page_247"></a>{247}</span> Commandant of Mswa, was indefatigable -in making these raids. Of course the Pasha found this state of things in -his Province. It was an old-established custom, a custom that weighs -with all the weight of fearful oppression on the natives; and, -embarrassed as he was by the advance of Karamalla and the disease of -rebellion that raged like an epidemic in the hearts of his own subjects, -he was powerless to restrain them. But we can understand why the -natives, who had been for so many years under Egyptian government, -hailed the appearance of the Mahdists, and joined them to exterminate -the panic-stricken fugitives from the captured forts of the Province. -When the Congo State forgets its duties to its subjects, and sanctions -rapine and raiding, we may rest assured that its fall will be as sudden -and as certain as that of the Egyptian Government in the Soudan.</p> - -<p>I am not concerned in writing the history of this unhappy region, which -has been given up for years to be the prey of the vilest passions that -human nature is capable of feeling, but by these allusions to what I -personally know I am able to interest the reader in the true position of -Emin Pasha. This solitary man was engaged in as impossible a task as was -that of Gordon when he undertook and set out for Khartoum, in 1884, to -rescue the garrisons of the Soudan. He did brave things, but the bravest -portion of his story is when this earnest-minded man lives among these -lost people, and has to endure seeing his subjects robbed and despoiled -whenever any officer apprehends scarcity and resolves upon a raiding -expedition. He knows exactly what will happen; he knows there will be -indiscriminate shooting and looting, he knows there will be destruction -of villages and decimation of the owners; that with the captive herds -there will be long files of captive women and children, and a -distribution of the spoil; and yet he dares do nothing to thwart these -cruel and hard proceedings. How can he? He has no cloth or money to buy -food for all his people. What answer can he make when they demand of him -what they must do to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_248" id="page_248"></a>{248}</span> live? Though the soil is gracious and repays -labour, it is useless for him to point to it. They will grow cotton to -clothe themselves, and cultivate gardens for kitchen vegetables, because -no native understands these things; but grain for bread, and cattle for -beef, the natives must yield to people nobler than themselves. He is the -only man who can think of this work as a wrong, and as he has no force -to compel men to think otherwise, he must needs endure this evil as he -endures many others. Good government was therefore impossible. It was -founded on blood and spoliation from the very beginning, and, like all -other Governments which preceded it, that were created with similar -views, it was decreed that it should perish utterly.</p> - -<p>As a fitting conclusion to this chapter, I append the following -documents received from Sir Francis Grenfell, the Sirdar of Egypt. Those -who love to trace effects to causes may find in these documents -criminating proofs of that intercourse with the enemy which was -maintained by the rebel officers. They explain what I have asserted. -They prove conclusively that their object in proceeding to the Pasha at -Tunguru, and imploring his forgiveness, promising to reinstate him in -power, and begging him to introduce them to me, was for the purpose -consummating the vile plot of betraying us into the hands of the -Mahdists. Thanks to Jephson, who was “a chiel takin’ notes,” and to the -clumsiness of their acts, Omar Saleh did not have the satisfaction of -conveying that “other traveller who had come to Emin,” and whom he was -so anxious to catch, for exhibition at Khartoum—which he may possibly -regret more than I.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="c"> -<span class="smcap">Letter from Osman Digna to the Governor-General, Suakim.</span><br /> -</p> - -<p>“In the name of the Great God, &c.</p> - -<p>“This is from Osman Digna to the Christian who is Governor of -Suakim. Let me inform you that some time ago Rundle sent me a -letter asking me of the man who was Governor in the Equatorial -Provinces. On the arrival of the said letter in our hands I sent it -at once to the Khalifa, on whom be peace, &c. The Khalifa has sent -me the answer, and has informed me that the said Governor of the -Equator has fallen into our hands, and is now one of the followers -of the Mahdi. The Khalifa sent steamers to the Equator, commanded -by one of our chiefs, named Omar Saleh. They reached Lado, and on -their arrival<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_249" id="page_249"></a>{249}</span> they found that the troops of the said Governor, who -were composed of military men and officers, had seized the -Governor, with a traveller who was with him. They put them in -chains and delivered them into the hands of our chief. Now all the -province is in our hands, and the inhabitants have submitted to the -Mahdi. We have taken the arms and ammunition which were there; we -also brought the officers and chief clerk to the Khalifa, who -received them kindly, and now they are staying with him. They have -handed to him all their banners.</p> - -<p>“Therefore, as Rundle wishes to know what has become of this -Governor, you tell him of this message.</p> - -<p>“I enclose a copy of the letter which our chief in the Equator sent -to the Khalifa, and also a copy of that which Tewfik had sent to -the said Governor.</p> - -<p>“I also send you a dozen rounds of the ammunition, which were -brought from the Equator. I praise God for the defeat of the -unbeliever, and defeat of the infidels.</p> - -<p class="r"> -“Sealed”<br /> -</p> - -</div> - -<p>“The ammunition sent was Snider ammunition, marked 1869, and is in very -good condition. Two letters were enclosed. The first of these is -recognised by his Excellency the Sirdar as being the one given to Mr. -Stanley by his Highness the Khedive on his departure from Cairo.”</p> - -<p>“The second is a copy of a letter of Omar Saleh to the Khalifa, dated -15th October, 1888, and is as follows:—</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>“We proceeded with the steamers and army, and reached the town of -Lado, where Emin, the Mudir of the Equator, is staying, on the 5th -Safar, 1306 (10th October, 1888). We must thank the officers and -men who made this conquest easy, for they had seized Emin and a -traveller who was staying with him, and put them both in chains, -refusing to go to Egypt with the Turks.</p> - -<p>“Tewfik had sent to Emin one of the travellers; his name is Mr. -Stanley. This Mr. Stanley brought with him a letter from Tewfik to -Emin, dated 8th Gamad Awal (the date of the Khedive’s letter), -telling him to come with Mr. Stanley, and give the rest of the -force the option of coming with him or remaining here, as they -please.</p> - -<p>“The force refused the Turkish orders, and received us gladly. I -have found a great deal of ivory and feathers. I am sending with -this the officers and Chief Clerk on board the <i>Bordein</i>, commanded -by Mohammed Kheir. I am also sending the letter which came from -Tewfik to Emin, together with the banners we took from the Turks.</p> - -<p>“I have heard that there is another traveller who came to Emin. I -am looking out for him, and if he returns I am sure to catch him.</p> - -<p>“All the chiefs of the Province, with the inhabitants, are -delighted to see us. I have taken all the arms and ammunition. When -you have seen the officers and Chief Clerk, and given them the -necessary instructions, please send them back, as they will be of -great use to me.”</p> - -<p>True copy.</p> - -<p class="r"> -(Sd.) <span class="smcap">T. R. Wingate.</span><br /> -Kaim.<br /> -A. A. G. Intell.<br /> -</p> - -<p> -W. O.<br /> -15/1/90.<br /> -</p> - -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_250" id="page_250"></a>{250}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXVIII" id="CHAPTER_XXVIII"></a>CHAPTER XXVIII.<br /><br /> -<small>TO THE ALBERT EDWARD NYANZA.</small></h2> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hangg">Description of the road from Bundegunda—We get a good view of the -twin peaks in the Ruwenzori range—March to Utinda—The Pasha’s -officers abuse the officer in command: which compels a severe -order—Kaibuga urges hostilities against Uhobo—Brush with the -enemy: Casati’s servant, Akili, killed—Description of the -Ruwenzori range as seen from Nboga—Mr. Jephson still an -invalid—The little stowaway named Tukabi—Captain Nelson examines -the Semliki for a suitable ferry—We reach the Semliki river: -description of the same—Uledi and Saat Tato swim across the river -for a canoe—A band of Wara Sura attack us—All safely ferried -across the river—In the Awamba forest—Our progress to -Baki-kundi—We come across a few Baundwé, forest aborigines—The -Egyptians and their followers—Conversation with Emin -Pasha—Unexplored parts of Africa—Abundance of food—Ruwenzori -from the spur of Ugarama—Two native women give us local -information—We find an old man at Batuma—At Bukoko we encounter -some Manyuema raiders: their explanation—From Bakokoro we arrive -at Mtarega, the foot of the Ruwenzori range—Lieut. Stairs with -some men explore the Mountains of the Moon—Report of Lieut. -Stairs’ experiences—The Semliki valley—The Rami-lulu valley—The -perfection of a tropical forest—Villages in the clearing of -Ulegga—Submission of a Ukonju chief—Local knowledge from our -friends the Wakonju—Description of the Wakonju tribe—The Semliki -river—View of Ruwenzori from Mtsora—We enter Muhamba, and next -day camp at Karimi—Capture of some fat cattle of Rukara’s—The -Zeriba of Rusessé—Our first view of Lake Albert Edward Nyanza.</p></div> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />May 9.<br />Bundegunda.</div> - -<p>The road to the south, which we now pursued on moving from Bundegunda on -the 9th May, skirted the western base of that great bulk of mountain -land inhabited by the Balegga, and the Bandussuma of Mazamboni. It -crosses cultivated tracts devoted to beans and luxuriant sweet potatoes, -yams, colocassia, and sugar-cane; it is hedged thickly with glorious -plantains; it is flanked by humble villages, with cone roofs; it is -buried under miniature wildernesses of reedy cane; it dips<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_251" id="page_251"></a>{251}</span> down to -clear, limpid rillets, just escaped from the bosom of the tall mountains -soaring above; it winds in snaky curves over rich flats of pasture; it -runs close to the foot of steep slopes, and then starts off along -smoothly-descending spurs. About five miles off to the westward, or on -our right hand, the forest, black as night, keeps company with us. We -are seldom out of sight of the advancing capes and receding bays of the -dark, eternal mass. On our left, in intimate neighbourhood, rise the -mighty slopes, steeply receding upward into the greyish blue of an -uncertain sky, and far away, in solemn lines, like a colossal battalion -of mountains, is ranged the series between each of which are deep -ravines, narrow and far-reaching recessions, formed by -ceaselessly-murmuring streams.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />May 10.<br />Utinda.</div> - -<p>On the morning of this day, Ruwenzori came out from its mantle of clouds -and vapours, and showed its groups of peaks and spiny ridges resplendent -with shining white snow; the blue beyond was as that of ocean—a -purified and spotless translucence. Far to the west, like huge double -epaulettes, rose the twin peaks which I had seen in December, 1887, and -from the sunk ridge below the easternmost rose sharply the dominating -and unsurpassed heights of Ruwenzori proper, a congregation of hoary -heads, brilliant in white raiment; and away to the east extended a -roughened ridge, like a great vertebra—peak and saddle, isolated mount -and hollow, until it passed out of sight behind the distant extremities -of the range we were then skirting. And while in constant view of it, as -I sat up in the hide hammock suspended between two men, my plan of our -future route was sketched. For to the west of the twin peaks, Ruwenzori -range either dropped suddenly into a plain or sheered away S.S.W. What I -saw was either an angle of a mass or the western extremity. We would aim -for the base of the twin peaks, and pursue our course southerly to lands -unknown, along the base-line. The guides—for we had many now—pointed -with their spears vaguely, and cried out “Ukonju” and (giving a little -dab into the air with<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_252" id="page_252"></a>{252}</span> their spear-points) “Usongora,” meaning that -Ukonju was what we saw, and beyond it lay Usongora, invisible.</p> - -<p>After halting at Ujungwa we rose next day to march to Utinda, seven -miles off. The valley between the Balegga Mountains and the forest -seemed to narrow, and the path threatened to take us into troublous -depths of spear-grass brakes and fens nourishing reed-cane, when, after -crossing the Chai and Aturo streams, and several gushing rivulets, it -ran up a lengthy spur of the Balegga Mountains, and took us to a height -of 500 feet above the valley.</p> - -<p>From this altitude we observed that we had narrowly escaped being buried -in the forest again, for it had advanced behind the spur right across -the valley, and occupied every inch of lowland. Within its sombre depths -the Chai and Aturo rivers and other streams united their currents to -form a respectable tributary of the Ituri river.</p> - -<p>A little to our left, as we looked south, was a deep basin parted into -numerous small arable plots, appertaining to the district of Utinda. -Every ravine and hollow seemed choked by long, straggling plantations of -plantain and banana. The beans and Indian corn were late, for they were -not more than five inches high, while at Bundegunda the crops were quite -four feet high and in flower.</p> - -<p>The Egyptians reached camp four hours after the advance guard, and the -officer in charge of the rear complained bitterly of the abuse that he -had received from the Pasha’s officers, some of them jeering at him, -making mouths, and daring him to drive them along, which compelled me to -issue the following order:—</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>“Whereas the Expedition must necessarily proceed slowly, and -shorten its marches, owing to the promise that we have given Selim -Bey, and to the fact that the Egyptians, the Soudanese and their -followers are as yet unaccustomed to hard travel and fatigue, and -to the fact that I, their guide, am physically too weak to endure -more than two or three hours’ exertion of any kind, the officers -will please exercise the greatest patience and forbearance, but -they must on no account forget the duties peculiar to the -rear-guard. They will permit no straggling by the wayside, no -looting of villages, no indiscriminate pillaging of plantations, no -marauding upon any excuse; and upon any insolence, whether from<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_254" id="page_254"></a>{254}</span><a name="page_255" id="page_255"></a><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_253" id="page_253"></a>{253}</span> -Egyptian officer, private soldier, or follower, the officer in -charge will call his guard and bind the offender, and bring him to -me for punishment. If any violence is offered it must be met by -such violence as will instantly crush it.”</p></div> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill-252_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/ill-252_sml.jpg" width="542" height="360" alt="RUWENZORI, FROM KAVALLI’S." -title="RUWENZORI, FROM KAVALLI’S." /></a><br /> -<span class="caption">RUWENZORI, FROM KAVALLI’S.</span> -</p> - -<p>From the basin of Utinda we ascended past a few cones dominating a ridge -which enclosed it on the south and south-east, and, after surmounting -two other ridges separated by well-watered valleys, we arrived on the -airy upland of grassy Uhobo, 4,900 feet above sea-level. A little later -Kaibuga entered into our camp. This chief was of the Wahuma settled -among the Balegga, whose grounds overlooked the plain of Kavalli and the -south end of the Nyanza, and whose territory extended to the debouchure -of the Semliki. He urged active hostilities, as Uhobo belonged to Kabba -Rega. Naturally we smiled at this, as we had not seen the semblance of a -single enemy, though it is true that the Uhobo natives had disappeared -from view at our approach. At this instant a picquet signalled the -advance of a column of Kabba Rega’s people armed with guns, and two -companies of Zanzibaris were mustered by Lieutenant Stairs and Captain -Nelson, the latter of whom had so improved by the diet of Kavalli and -Mazamboni that he was fit for any work.</p> - -<p>After proceeding about two miles they met the small party of the Pasha’s -people carrying the dead body of Captain Casati’s faithful servant -Okili, for whom Casati entertained deep affection. He had been shot -through the forehead by a rifle-ball. It appears that while the -Soudanese had been bathing in a stream south of Uhobo, the column of the -Wara Sura happened to be observed marching in a pretty disciplined -manner with two flags towards them, and a few minutes later would have -surprised them, but the whole party hastily dressed, and, snatching -their rifles, opened fire on them. Three of the enemy fell dead, and -Okili was shot by the fire that was returned. On the approach of the -Zanzibaris the Wara Sura fled, and were pursued for three miles, but no -further casualties occurred.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />May 12.<br />Mboga.</div> - -<p>A severe rainstorm, lasting seven hours, fell during the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_256" id="page_256"></a>{256}</span> night, and in -the morning when marching to Mboga we were involved in cloud and mist. -As the day advanced, however, Ruwenzori thrust its immense body into -view far above the vapours rising from the low Semliki Valley, and every -now and then the topmost cones gathered the cloudy fleeces and veiled -their white heads from view. As we advanced nearer each day to the range -we were surprised that we were not able to discover so much snow as we -had seen at Kavalli, but on reflection it became evident that the line -of snow became obscured from view by an advanced ridge, which the nearer -we approached impeded the view the more. We observed also that the lofty -mountain range assumed the form of a crescent; Ajif Mountain forming the -northern end and the Twin Peak shoulder to the west the other end; and -further, that beyond Ajif, which I estimated at about 6,000 feet above -the sea, there was a steady and perceptible rise to the snow line, and -then a sudden uplift to the proud height of from 2,000 to 5,000 feet -higher, most of which was under snow.</p> - -<p>This place of Mboga, were it in any other country than under the Equator -in Mid Africa, would afford a splendid view of this unique range. From -the Twin Peak angle and up to thirty miles N.N.E. of Ajif the whole of -it ought to be in sight in any other clime, but the mist escapes in -continuous series or strata from the valley beneath, and floats in -fleeting evanescent masses, quite obscuring every other minute the -entire outlines. Between this point and the Ruwenzori range lies the -deep sunken valley of the Semliki, from twelve to twenty-five miles -wide. From a point abreast of Mboga to the edge of the Lake the first -glance of it suggests a lake. Indeed, the officers supposed it to be the -Albert Lake, and the Soudanese women were immoderately joyous at the -sight, and relieved their feelings by shrill lu-lu-lus; but a binocular -revealed pale brown grass in its sere, with tiny bushes dotting the -plain. To our right, as we looked down the depth of 2,500 feet, there -was a dark tongue of acacia bushes deepening into blackness as the -forest, which we had<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_257" id="page_257"></a>{257}</span> left near the Chai River, usurped the entire -breadth of the valley.</p> - -<p>Mr. Jephson was still an invalid, with a fever which varied from 102° to -105° temperature, ever since the 23rd of April, and at this time he was -in rather an anxious state of mind. Like myself, he was much shrunk, and -we both looked ill. We halted on the 13th to give rest to invalids and -the little children.</p> - -<p>To Kiryama, on the 14th, a village situated near the mouth of a deep and -narrow valley, and which in old times, when Lake Albert covered the -grassy plain and must have been a somewhat picturesque inlet, we made a -continuous descent by declining spurs. The soil of the valley was -extremely rich, and a copious stream coursed through it to the Semliki. -We obtained, at brief intervals, glimpses of Ruwenzori; but had the mist -not been so tantalising it would not have been deemed an unwelcome view -that we should have had of the magnificent and imposing altitude of -15,500 feet above us.</p> - -<p>In the camp of the immense caravan a little boy about eleven years old, -named Tukabi, was found. He was what is termed “a stowaway.” While we -were at Mazamboni, his father, a subject of Kavalli, had come to appeal -for help to recover him. He had attached himself to some Zanzibaris. The -boy was delivered up, and his father was charged to observe the young -truant carefully. He had disguised himself with some cloth to cover his -face, but as he passed my tent I recognised him. He was asked why he -deserted his father to join strangers who might be unkind to him. -“Because,” he answered, “I prefer my friend to my father.” “Does your -father beat you?” “No, but I wish to see the place where these guns come -from, and where the thunder medicine (gunpowder) is made.” It was the -first time in my experience that an African boy of such a tender age was -known to voluntarily abandon his parents. He was a singularly bright -little fellow, with very intelligent eyes, and belonged to the Wahuma -race.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />May 14.<br />Kiryama.</div> - -<p>Captain Nelson was despatched to proceed to the Semliki River with 80 -rifles, to examine what opportuni<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_258" id="page_258"></a>{258}</span>ties there might be for crossing the -river. He returned after a brilliant march, and reported that the -Semliki at the ferry was about eighty or ninety yards wide, swift and -deep, with steep banks of from ten to twenty feet high, much subject to -undermining by the river; that the canoes had all been removed by -Ravidongo, the General of Kabba Rega, who was said to have gathered a -large force to oppose our crossing, and also that all the natives of -Uhobo, Mboga, and Kiryama districts, were collected across the Semliki -River with him, and that it was clear a stout resistance would be made, -as the opposite banks were carefully watched; that while they were -examining the river a volley had been fired at them, which was -fortunately harmless.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />May 17.<br />Awamba.</div> - -<p>After a two days’ rest at Kiryama we marched south across the grassy -plain to another ferry led by Kaibuga. That which some of us had assumed -to be a lake was very firm alluvium and lacustrine deposit, growing a -thin crop of innutritious grass, about 18 inches high. As we advanced up -the river it sensibly improved; and at the third hour from Kiryama an -acacia tree was seen; a little later there were five, then a dozen, wide -apart and stunted. At the fourth hour it was quite a thin forest on the -left side of the Semliki, while to the right it was a thick impervious -and umbrageous tropic forest, and suddenly we were on the bank of the -Semliki. At the point we touched the river it was sixty yards wide, with -between a four and five-knot current. A little below it widened into 100 -yards, a fine, deep, and promising river. Up and down, and opposite, -there were broad signs of recent land falls. Its banks consisted of -sediment and gravelly débris which could offer no resistance to the -strong current when it surged against the base. It washed away great -masses from underneath. There was a continual falling of dissolving -lumps, as though it was so much snow; then a sudden fall of a two-ton -fragment of the superincumbent bank. It was a loopy, and twisting, -crooked stream, forming a wide-stretching S in every mile of its course, -and its water was of a whitey-brown colour, and weighted with sediment. -Out of a<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_259" id="page_259"></a>{259}</span> tumblerful of the liquid, a fourth of an inch of fine earth -would be deposited.</p> - -<p>By a good aneroid the altitude of the bank, which was about twenty feet -above the river, was 2,388 feet above the sea. Lake Albert by the same -aneroid was 2,350 feet. There was a difference indicated of 38 feet. I -estimated that we were about thirty English miles from the lake.</p> - -<p>As we arrived at the river a canoe was observed floating down rapidly. -The alarm had been given, probably, by some natives who had heard our -voices, and in their hurry to escape had either purposely cast off their -canoe, or had feared to be detained through the necessity of securing -it. The village of the Awamba, whence it had floated adrift, was in -sight. Men were sent up and down the banks to discover a canoe, and -Uledi—always Uledi—sent up soon the good news that he had found one. -The caravan proceeded in his direction, and camped in a large but -abandoned banana plantation. The canoe was across the river in a small -creek, opposite the camping place. By some method it was necessary to -obtain it, as one canoe at this time was priceless. The men with the -bill-hooks were ordered up to clear twenty yards of bush, and to leave a -thin screen between the sharpshooters and the river. Then three or four -volleys scoured the position around the canoe, and in the meantime the -bold Uledi and Saat Tato, the hunter, swam across, and when near the -vessel the firing ceased. In a few seconds they had cut the canoe loose, -and were in it, paddling across to our side with all energy. They had -gained the centre of the river when the archers rose up and shot the -hunter, and at the same time the rifles blazed across. But the canoe was -obtained, and Saat Tato, streaming with blood, was attended by Dr. -Parke. Fortunately, the broad-bladed arrow had struck the shoulder -blade, which saved the vitals. Both the brave fellows were rewarded with -$20 worth of cloth on the spot.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />May 18.<br />Awamba.</div> - -<p>At 5 <small>P.M.</small> Mr. Bonny performed signal service. He accepted the mission of -leading five Soudanese across<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_260" id="page_260"></a>{260}</span> the Semliki as the vanguard of the -Expedition. By sunset there were fifty rifles across the river.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill-260_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/ill-260_sml.jpg" width="312" height="225" alt="ATTACK BY THE WANYORO AT SEMLIKI FERRY." -title="ATTACK BY THE WANYORO AT SEMLIKI FERRY." /></a><br /> -<span class="caption">ATTACK BY THE WANYORO AT SEMLIKI FERRY.</span> -</p> - -<p>On the 18th the ferriage was resumed at dawn. By noon two more canoes -had been discovered by scouts. Staits and Jephson were both very ill of -fever, and I was a prematurely old man of ninety in strength and -appearance and just able to walk at this time about one hundred yards. -Captain Nelson and Surgeon Parke therefore superintended the work of -transporting the Expedition across the Semliki. At two o’clock in the -afternoon, while the ferrying was briskly proceeding, a body of fifty of -the Wara Sura stole up to within 250 yards of the ferry, and fired a -volley at the canoes while in mid-river. Iron slugs and lead bullets -screamed over the heads of the passengers, and flew along the face of -the water, but fortunately there was no harm done. Notwithstanding our -admiration at their impudent audacity, a second volley might be more -effective, but Captain Nelson sprang from the river-side, and a hundred -rifles gathered around him and a chase began. We heard a good deal of -volleying, but the chase and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_261" id="page_261"></a>{261}</span> retreat were so hot that not a bullet -found its purposed billet. However, the Wara Sura discovered that, -whatever our intentions might be, we were in strong force, and we -understood that they were capable of contriving mischief. In their -hurried flight they dropped several as well-made cartridges as could be -prepared at Woolwich; and here was a proof also what a nest of traitors -there was in the Equatorial Province, for all these articles were of -course furnished by the scores of deserters.</p> - -<p>By night of the 18th, 669 people had been ferried across. At 3 o’clock -of the 19th, 1,168 men, women and children, 610 loads of baggage, 3 -canoe loads of sheep and goats, and 235 head of cattle had been taken -across. The only loss sustained was a calf, which was drowned. It may he -imagined how pleased I was at the brilliant services, activity and care -shown by Captain Nelson and Dr. Parke.</p> - -<p>A few hours later one of the Pasha’s followers was taken to the surgeon -with a fatal arrow-wound. It reminded me of the anxious times I -suffered, during the first eighteen months’ experiences with the equally -thoughtless Zanzibaris.</p> - -<p>On the 20th the Expedition moved through the thick forest, along an -extremely sloughy path to a little village removed one and a half hours -from the river. We arrived just as the intolerable pests of gnats were -at their liveliest. They swarmed into the eyes, nostrils, and ears, in -myriads. We thought the uninhabited forest was preferable, but at 9 -o’clock the minute tribes retired to rest, and ceased to vex us. There -was an odour of stale banana wine and ripe banana refuse, and these -probably had attracted the gnats. Two large troughs—equal in size to -small canoes—were stationed in the village, in which the natives -pressed the ripe fruit and manufactured their wine.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />May 20.<br />Awamba.</div> - -<p>For the first time we discovered that the Awamba, whose territory we -were now in, understood the art of drying bananas over wooden gratings, -for the purpose of making flour. We had often wondered, during our<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_262" id="page_262"></a>{262}</span> life -in the forest region, that natives did not appear to have discovered -what invaluable, nourishing, and easily digestible food they possessed -in the plantain and banana. All banana lands—Cuba, Brazil, West -Indies—seem to me to have been specially remiss on this point. If only -the virtues of the flour were publicly known, it is not to be doubted -but it would be largely consumed in Europe. For infants, persons of -delicate digestion, dyspeptics, and those suffering from temporary -derangements of the stomach, the flour, properly prepared, would be of -universal demand. During my two attacks of gastritis, a light gruel of -this, mixed with milk, was the only matter that could be digested.</p> - -<p>On the 22nd we were obliged to march for six hours through quagmire and -reeking mud before we were enabled to find a resting-place. The dense -forest, while as purely tropical in its luxuriance as any we had -travelled, was more discomforting owing to its greater heat and -over-abundant moisture. The excessive humidity revealed itself in a -thin, opaque, damp haze just above us. In the tree-tops it had already -gathered into a mist; above them it was a cloud; so that between us and -sunshine we had clouds several miles in thickness, the thick, dark, -matted foliage of the forest, then thickening layers of mist, and -finally a haze of warm vapour. We therefore picked our way through -shallow pool and gluey black mud, under a perpetual dropping of -condensed vapour, and by a leaden light that would encourage thoughts of -suicide, while bodily distress was evinced by trickling rillets of -perspiration.</p> - -<p>Emerging into a ruined village, the result of some late raid of the Wara -Sura, we threw looks towards Ruwenzori, but the old mountain had -disappeared under blue-black clouds that reminded one of brooding -tempests. The heights of Mboga were dimly visible, though they were -further from us than the stupendous mass behind which the thunder -muttered, and whence rain seemed imminent. We began to realize that we -were in the centre of a great fermenting vat, and that the exhalations -growing out of it concentrated themselves<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_263" id="page_263"></a>{263}</span> into clouds, and that the -latter hung in ever-thickening folds until they floated against the face -of Ruwenzori; that they languidly ascended the slants and clung to the -summits, until a draught of wind over the snow-crests blew them away and -cleared the view.</p> - -<p>We passed through an extremely populous district the next day, and -travelled only two and a quarter hours to reach Baki Kundi. Flanking the -path were familiar features, such as several camps of pigmies, who were -here called Watwa.</p> - -<p>The distance from the Semliki to these villages wherein we were now -encamped is 15½ English miles, which we had taken three days to travel, -and two days’ halt in consequence. But slow as this was, and supplied as -was the caravan with running streams of good water and unlimited -quantities of meat and grain, potatoes, plantains, and ripe fruit, the -misery of African travel had been realised to its depths. Mothers had -left their little children on the road, and one Egyptian soldier, named -Hamdan, had laid down by the wayside and stubbornly refused to move, -unwilling to pursue the journey of life further. He had no load to -carry, he was not sick, but he—what can be said? He belonged to the -donkey breed of humanity; he could not travel, but he could die, and the -rear-guard were obliged to leave him. This started a rumour through the -camp that the commander of the rear-guard had quietly despatched him.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />May 24.<br />Baki-Kundi.</div> - -<p>The 24th of May was a halt, and we availed ourselves of it to despatch -two companies to trace the paths, that I might obtain a general idea -which would best suit our purposes. One company took a road leading -slightly east of south, and suddenly came across a few Baundwe, whom we -knew for real forest aborigines. This was in itself a discovery, for we -had supposed we were still in Utuku, as the east side of the Semliki is -called, and which is under Kabba Rega’s rule. The language of the -Baundwe was new, but they understood a little Kinyoro, and by this means -we learned that Ruwenzori was known to them as Bugombowa, and that the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_264" id="page_264"></a>{264}</span> -Watwa pigmies and the Wara Sura were their worst enemies, and that the -former were scattered through the woods to the W.S.W.</p> - -<p>The other company travelled in a S. by W. direction, reached the thin -line of open country that divided the immediate base-line of Ruwenzori -from the forest. They spoke in raptures of the abundance of food, but -stated that the people were hostile and warlike. The arms of the men -were similar to those of other forest people, but the women were -distinguished for iron collars, to which were suspended small -phial-shaped pendants of hollow iron, besides those ending in fine -spiral coils at the extremities.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill-264_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/ill-264_sml.jpg" width="301" height="184" alt="HOUSES ON THE EDGE OF THE FOREST." -title="HOUSES ON THE EDGE OF THE FOREST." /></a><br /> -<span class="caption">HOUSES ON THE EDGE OF THE FOREST.</span> -</p> - -<p>Another short march of two and a quarter hours brought us to a village -of thirty-nine round, conical huts, which possessed elaborate doorways, -here and there ornamented with triangles painted red and black. The -<i>Elais gunieensis</i> palm was very numerous near the village.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />May 25.<br />Ugarama.</div> - -<p>On the next day we emerged out of the forest, and camped in the strip of -grass-land in the village of Ugarama, in N. lat. 0° 45′ 49″ and E. long. -30° 14′ 45″. The path had led along the crests of a narrow, wooded spur, -with ravines 200 feet deep on either hand, buried by giant trees. The -grass-land here did not produce that<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_265" id="page_265"></a>{265}</span> short nutritive quality which made -Kavalli so pleasant, but was of gigantic spear-grasses, from 6 to 15 -feet high.</p> - -<p>The Egyptian Hamdan made his reappearance at this camp. Left to himself -he had probably discovered it hard to die alone in the lonely woods, and -had repented of his folly. By this time we had become fully sensible of -the difficulty we should meet each day while these people were under our -charge. Low as was my estimation of them before, it had descended far -below zero now. Words availed nothing, reason could not penetrate their -dense heads. Their custom was to rush at early dawn along the path, and -after an hour’s spurt sit down, dawdle, light a fire, and cook, and -smoke, and gossip; then, when the rear-guard came up to urge them along, -assume sour and discontented looks, and mutter to themselves of the -cruelty of the infidels. Almost every day complaints reached me from -them respecting Captain Nelson and Lieutenant Stairs. Either one or the -other was reported for being exacting and too peremptory. It was tedious -work to get them to comprehend that they were obeying orders; that their -sole anxiety was to save them from being killed by the natives, or from -losing their way; that the earlier they reached camp the better for -everybody; that marches of two or three hours would not kill a child -even; that while it was our duty to be careful of their lives, it was -also our duty to have some regard for the Zanzibaris, who, instead of -being two or three hours on the road were obliged to be ten hours, with -boxes on their heads; that it was my duty also to see that the white -officers were not worn out by being exposed to the rain, and mud, and -shivering damp, waiting on people who would not see the benefit of -walking four or five miles quickly to camp to enjoy twenty to twenty-one -hours’ rest out of the twenty-four. These whining people, who were -unable to walk empty-handed two and a half or three hours per day, were -yellow Egyptians; a man with a little black pigment in his skin seldom -complained, the extreme black and the extreme white never.</p> - -<p>The Egyptians and their followers had such a number<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_266" id="page_266"></a>{266}</span> of infants and -young children that when the camp space was at all limited, as on a -narrow spur, sleep was scarcely possible. These wee creatures must have -possessed irascible natures, for such obstinate and persistent -caterwauling never tormented me before. The tiny blacks and sallow -yellows rivalled one another with force of lung until long past -midnight, then about 3 or 4 <small>A.M.</small> started afresh, woke everyone from -slumber, while grunts of discontent at the meeawing chorus would be -heard from every quarter.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill-266_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/ill-266_sml.jpg" width="321" height="289" alt="EGYPTIAN WOMEN AND CHILDREN." -title="EGYPTIAN WOMEN AND CHILDREN." /></a><br /> -<span class="caption">EGYPTIAN WOMEN AND CHILDREN.</span> -</p> - -<p>Our Zanzibaris concluded that though the people of Equatoria might be -excellent breeders, they were very poor soldiers. The Egyptians had been -so long accustomed to overawe the natives of the Province by their -numbers and superior arms, that now their number was somewhat reduced -and overmatched by natives, they<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_267" id="page_267"></a>{267}</span> appeared to be doubtful of reaching -peaceful countries; but they were so undisciplined, and yet so -imperious, they would speedily convert the most peaceful natives to -rancorous foes.</p> - -<p>With the Pasha I had a conversation on this date, and I became fully -aware that, though polite, he yet smarted under resentment for the -explosion of April 5th. But the truth is that the explosion was -necessary and unavoidable. Our natures were diametrically opposed. So -long as there was no imperative action in prospect we should have been -both capable of fully enjoying one another’s society. He was learned and -industrious and a gentleman, and I could admire and appreciate his -merits. But the conditions of our existence prohibited a too prolonged -indulgence in these pleasures. We had not been commissioned to pass our -days in Equatoria in scientific talk, nor to hold a protracted -conversazione on Lake Albert. The time had come, as appointed, to begin -a forward movement. It was not effected without that episode in the -square at Kavalli. Now that we were on the journey I discovered to my -regret that there were other causes for friction. The Pasha was devoured -with a desire to augment his bird collections, and thought that, having -come so far to help him, we might “take it easy.” “But we are taking it -easy for manifold reasons. The little children, the large number of -women burdened with infants, the incapable Egyptians, the hope that -Selim Bey will overtake us, the feeble condition of Jephson and myself, -and Stairs is far from strong.” “Well, then, take it more easy.” “We -have done so; a mile and a half per day is surely easy going.” “Then be -easier still.” “Heavens, Pasha, do you wish us to stay here altogether? -Then let us make our wills, and resign ourselves to die with our work -undone.” The thunder was muttering again, as behind the dark clouds on -Ruwenzori, and another explosion was imminent.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />May 26.<br />Ugarama.</div> - -<p>I knew he was an ardent collector of birds and reptiles and insects, but -I did not know that it was a mania with him. He would slay every bird in -Africa; he would collect ugly reptiles, and every hideous insect;<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_268" id="page_268"></a>{268}</span> he -would gather every skull until we should become a travelling museum and -cemetery, if only carriers could be obtained. But then his people were -already developing those rabid ulcers, syphilis had weakened their -constitutions, a puncture of a thorn in the face grew into a horrid and -sloughy sore; they had pastured on vice and were reaping the -consequences. The camps soon became so filthy that they would breed a -pestilence, and we should soon become a moving sight to gods and men. -Carriers were dying—they were not well treated—and then, why then, we -could not move at all by-and-by. He was in Heaven when his secretary, -Rajab Effendi, brought him new species; he looked grateful when there -was to be a two days’ rest, sad when he heard we should march; and when -we should reach a nice place near Ruwenzori, we should stay a week, oh, -splendid!</p> - -<p>Now, all this made me feel as if we were engaged in a most ungrateful -task. As long as life lasts, he will hold me in aversion, and his -friends, the Felkins, the Junkers, and Schweinfurths will listen to -querulous complaints, but they will never reflect that work in this -world must not consist entirely of the storage in museums of skulls, and -birds, and insects; that the continent of Africa was never meant by the -all-bounteous Creator to be merely a botanical reserve, or an -entomological museum.</p> - -<p>Every man I saw, giant or dwarf, only deepened the belief that Africa -had other claims on man, and every feature of the glorious land only -impressed me the more that there was a crying need for immediate relief -and assistance from civilisation; that first of all, roads of iron must -be built, and that fire and water were essential agencies for transport, -more especially on this long-troubled continent than on any other.</p> - -<p>Alas! alas! With this grand mountain range within a stone’s throw of our -camp—not yet outlined on my map—that other lake we heard so much about -from Kaibuga, our Mhuma chief, not yet discovered, the Semliki Valley, -with its treasures of woods and vege<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_269" id="page_269"></a>{269}</span>table productions, not yet -explored, and the Semliki River, which was said to connect the upper -with the lower lake, not yet traced. To hear about wonderful salt lakes -that might supply the world with salt; of large-bodied Wazongora, and -numbers of amiable tribes; of the mysterious Wanyavingi, who were said -to be descended from white men; to be in the neighbourhood of colossal -mountains topped with snow, which I believed to be the lost Mountains of -the Moon; to be in a land which could boast of possessing the fabulous -fountains de la lune, a veritable land of marvel and mystery, a land of -pigmies and tall men reported from of old, and not feel a glad desire to -search into the truth of these sayings. He—the Maker who raised those -eternal mountains and tapestried their slopes with the mosses, and -lichens, and tender herbs, and divided them by myriads of watercourses -for the melted snow to run into the fruitful valley, and caused that -mighty, limitless forest to clothe it, and its foliage to shine with -unfading lustre—surely intended that it should be reserved until the -fulness of time for something higher than a nursery for birds and a -store-place for reptiles.</p> - -<p>The abundance of food in this region was one of the most remarkable -features in it. Ten battalions would have needed no commissary to -provide their provisions. We had but to pluck and eat. Our scouts -reported that on every hand lay plantations abounding in the heaviest -clusters of fruit. The native granaries were full of red millet, the -huts were stored with Indian corn; in the neighbouring garden plots were -yams, sweet potatoes, colocassia, tobacco.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />May 27.<br />Ugarama.</div> - -<p>From the spur of Ugarama, where we halted on the 27th, we could see that -up to 8,000 feet of the slopes they were dotted with several scores of -cultivated plots, and that the crooked lines of ravines were green with -lengthy banana groves, and that upland and lowland teemed with -population and food, and other products. Through a glass we were able to -note that a thick forest covered the upper slopes and ridges, with an -elevation of 9,000 up to 12,000 feet; and that where there was no<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_270" id="page_270"></a>{270}</span> -cultivation the woods continued down to the base. The wild banana was -seen flourishing up to a lofty limit, and graced the slopes denuded of -trees, and towered over the tallest grass. The Ruwenzori peaks appeared -shrouded by leaden clouds, and the lower mountain ranges played at -hide-and-seek under the drifting and shifting masses of white vapour. By -aneroid, Ugarama is 2,994 feet; and by boiling point, 2,942 feet above -the sea. The immediate range, under whose lee the spur ran out to -Ugarama village, was, by triangulation, discovered to be of an altitude -of 9,147 feet.</p> - -<p>Two women—light-complexioned and very pleasing—who were found in the -woods near the village, were able to speak the Kinyoro language. It was -from them we learned that we were in Ugarama, in the country of Awamba; -that Utuku was a name given to the open country up to the Mississi River -and the Lake; that the next district we should reach southerly was -Bukoko, where the principal Chief, Sibaliki, of the Awamba, lived; and -beyond Bukoko was Butama. That from Ugarama to the north extremity of -Bukonju or Ukonju, was one day’s march; that two days thence would take -us to Toro, but we should have to cross the mountains; that the king of -N. Ukonju was called Ruhandika; that the Wakonju formerly owned vast -herds of cattle, but the Wara Sura had swept the herds away. We were -also told that if we followed the base line of the big mountains, three -days’ march would enable us to reach a country of short grass, wherein -goats and sheep were plentiful, and wherein there were a few herds of -cattle; but the Wara Sura had raided so many times there that cattle -could not be kept. The enemies of the Awamba, who cut down the woods and -tilled the ground, were the vicious Watwa pigmies, who made their lives -miserable by robbing their plantations, and destroying small parties -while at work, or proceeding to market in adjoining districts, while the -Wara Sura devastated far and near, and they were in the service of Kabba -Rega.</p> - -<p>When asked if they ever enjoyed days of sunshine<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_271" id="page_271"></a>{271}</span> and the snow mountains -could be seen clear and bright for three or four days, or a week, or a -month, they replied that they had never witnessed so much rain as at -this time; and they believed that we had purposely caused this in order -the more easily to detect people by the tracks along the paths. They -also said that at first they had taken us for Wara Sura; but the large -herd of cattle with us disproved that we had taken them from the Awamba, -for they possessed none. When we informed them that we had seized them -from people who acknowledged Kabba Rega as their chief, they said: “Oh, -if our people but knew that, they would bring you everything.” “Well, -then, you shall go and tell them that we are friends to everyone who -will not close the road. We are going to a far country, and, as we -cannot fly, we must use the path; but we never hurt those who do not -raise the spear and draw the bow.”</p> - -<p>On the 28th we advanced five miles over a series of spurs, and across -deep ravines, continuous descents of 200 feet to ravines a few yards -across, and opposite ascensions, to a similar height. They were so steep -that we were either sliding, or climbing by means of the trees and -creepers depending from them; and all this under an unceasing, drizzly -rain. The rotting banana stalks and refuse of the fruit created a -sickening stench.</p> - -<p>The next day’s march of four miles enabled us to reach Butama, after an -experience as opposite to the sloughs, mud, rock, descents and ascents -of the day before, as a fine path, broad enough for an European’s -wide-stepping feet, could well be in Africa. The sandy loam quickly -absorbed the rain; the rank reed-grass, except at rare intervals, -afforded a sufficient space between, and troops of elephants had tramped -the ground hard.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />May 29.<br />Butama.</div> - -<p>An old man, with white hair, and too feeble to flee, had awaited his -fate at Butama. On being questioned, he replied that the name of the -snow mountains that now were immediately above us at an appalling -height, was “Avirika, Aviruka, Avrika, Avruka, Avirika, and Avuruka!” so -he rang the changes by pressure of eager<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_272" id="page_272"></a>{272}</span> questions which he had excited -by its relation to Afrika. Upon the Watwa pigmies he was most severe. He -charged them with being exceedingly treacherous; that they were in the -habit of making friends with chiefs of rich districts by fraudful arts -and false professions, and, despite blood-brotherhood, and plighted -faith, of suddenly turning upon them and destroying them.</p> - -<p>On the 30th we reached Bukoko in four hours’ easy travel, for we marched -over a smooth graduated terrace formed by the debris rolled down the -slopes of the snow mountain, and scoured by repeated falls of rain to a -gentle slope, luxuriant with reed-grass, and wonderfully prolific in -edibles, where cultivated. Here and there cropped out a monster boulder, -half imbedded in the loam and gravelly soil, which had rolled and -thundered wildly down when displaced by some landslip, or detached from -its resting-place by a torrential shower.</p> - -<p>Bukoko was a large and powerful settlement and an important cluster of -villages; but it struck us as we entered it that it had been for several -days abandoned, probably as long ago as a month. Its groves seemed -endless and most thriving, and weighted with fruit, and tomatoes grew in -prodigious plenty.</p> - -<p>The scouts, as usual, soon after stacking goods and arranging camp, set -out to explore, and in a short time met some people in cotton dresses -who were armed with guns, and who fired upon them. We heard the loud -boom of percussion muskets, and the sharper crack of rifles, and then -there was quiet. Presently the scouts returned to report, and they -brought me an Enfield rifle which had been thrown away by the defeated -band, two of the men were supposed to be fatally wounded, one was said -to be dead. They also brought with them a woman and a boy, who were -evidently natives of the country, and could say nothing intelligible.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />May 30.<br />Bukoko.</div> - -<p>A company of seventy rifles was immediately despatched to reconnoitre -further, and in ten minutes there was quite a sustained fusillade, deep -booming of muskets against sharp volleys of Remingtons and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_273" id="page_273"></a>{273}</span> Winchesters. -Soon after two of our men were carried to camp wounded, who reported -that the enemy were Wara Sura. The rifles appeared to have pressed the -strangers hard; the firing was getting more distant, but in an hour’s -time we had two more wounded, and a Zanzibari youth, and a Manyuema -youth killed, and almost immediately, as I thought of preparing a strong -reinforcement, Uledi and the rifles walked into camp accompanied by the -chiefs of the enemy, who turned out to be Manyuema raiders, the -followers of Kilonga-Longa!</p> - -<p>Their story was that a band of fifty gunmen, accompanied by about 100 -spearmen, had crossed the Ituri River, and pushing east had arrived -about twenty days ago near the edge of the forest, having crossed the -Semliki River, and had, with their usual tactics, commenced raiding when -they caught sight of some men with guns whom they guessed to be Wara -Sura, and had fired upon them. The strangers had fired in return and -killed one of them, wounded another mortally, and four others severely. -The rest had fled to their settlement, crying out, “We are finished,” -whereupon they had then sent men to be in ambush along the route, while -the community at the settlement was repairing its defences. On seeing -the head of the party coming along the road, they had fired, killing two -and wounding four slightly, but when their friends began to rain bullets -on them, they cried out “Who are you?” and were answered that they were -Stanley’s men, and firing at once ceased, and an acquaintance ever -disastrous to us was then renewed. Though we should have wished to have -had a legitimate excuse for annihilating one band of the unconscionable -raiders, we could not but accept their apologies for what had clearly -been an accident, and gifts were exchanged.</p> - -<p>We were told that they had met gangs of the Wara Sura, but had met “bad -luck,” and only one small tusk of ivory rewarded their efforts. Ipoto, -according to them, was twenty days’ march through the forest from -Bukoko.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_274" id="page_274"></a>{274}</span></p> - -<p>Ruwenzori was now known as Virika by the Awamba of this district.</p> - -<p>Since emerging from the Awamba forest near Ugarama, we had journeyed -along a narrow strip, covered with prodigious growth of cane-grass -reaching as high as fifteen feet. From eminences it appears to be from -three to eight miles wide, separating the deep, dark forest. From the -immediate vicinity of the mountain, notwithstanding that the grass was -of the height and thickness of bamboo, the path was infinitely better, -and we had but to cross one or two ravines and watercourses during a -march. A feature of it was the parachute-shaped acacia, which in the -neighbourhood of the Nyanza was the only tree visible. Near the forest -line this tree disappears, and the vegetation, riotously luxuriant and -purely tropical, occupied the rest of the valley.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill-274_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/ill-274_sml.jpg" width="313" height="169" alt="THE TALLEST PEAK OF RUWENZORI, FROM AWAMBA FOREST." -title="THE TALLEST PEAK OF RUWENZORI, FROM AWAMBA FOREST." /></a><br /> -<span class="caption">THE TALLEST PEAK OF RUWENZORI, FROM AWAMBA FOREST.</span> -</p> - -<p>The streams we had lately crossed were cold mountain torrents with -fairly wide beds, showing gravel, sand, cobble stones, specimens of the -rocks above, gneiss, porphyry, hornblende, sandstone, steatite, -hematite, and granite, with several pumice lumps. Three of the principal -rivers, called the Rami, Rubutu, and Singiri, were respectively of the -temperatures 68°, 62°, and 65° Fahrenheit.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_275" id="page_275"></a>{275}</span></p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />June 2.<br />Banzombé.</div> - -<p>After a halt of two days at Bukoko we marched a distance of eight miles -to the village of Banzombé, situate on a narrow, level-topped spur -between two deep ravines, on the edge of the forest, which here had -crept up to the base-line of the snow mountains. As usual, Ruwenzori was -invisible, and I feared we should have little chance of photographing -it, or employ any of its lofty peaks to take bearings.</p> - -<p>The vapours issuing from the Semliki Valley appeared to be weighed down -by pressure from above, judging by the long time required for a mass of -ascending vapour to each the summit. The smoke of the camp hung over us -like a fog until we were nearly blinded and suffocated.</p> - -<p>Our cattle showed signs of fagging out. We now possessed 104 head, and -30 sheep and goats.</p> - -<p>On the 3rd of June we reached the little village of Bakokoro, in N. Lat. -0° 37′, and here a Copt, one of four brothers, breathed his last. Three -considerable streams had been traversed during the short march of three -miles. The temperature of one was 62° Fahrenheit.</p> - -<p>Unable to trace a path beyond Bakokoro, trending in the direction we -required, we halted on the 4th. Jephson was in a high fever; temperature -105°. Mr. Bonny was also suffering; Stairs had recovered. Captain Nelson -was robust and strong, and during these days was doing double duty to -endeavour to make up for the long months he had been invalided, from -October, 1887, to October, 1888.</p> - -<p>Some plantains measured here were seventeen and a half inches in length, -and as thick as the fore-arm.</p> - -<p>After a short march of two and a half hours, we arrived at Mtarega, -situated near the deep gorge of the Rami-Lulu river, as it issued from a -deep chasm in the mountains.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />June 3.<br />Bakokoro.</div> - -<p>We had all we desired to possess at this camp. We were within 200 yards -from the foot of the Ruwenzori range. Paths were seen leading up the -steep slopes; a fine cool river was 200 feet below, rushing through the -gorge fresh from the snow tops, 61° Fahrenheit temperature. Bananas, -plantains, and yams, and corn and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_276" id="page_276"></a>{276}</span> sugar-cane were in the plantations -and fields, 200 yards away. Now was the period of exploration, and to -make botanical collections. Accordingly I sounded the note to prepare to -win immortal renown by scaling the heights of the famous Mountains of -the Moon. My strength was so far recovered that I could walk 200 yards. -Mr. Jephson regretted to say that the fever had conquered and subdued -his sanguine spirit; Captain Nelson was sorry, but really, if there was -any practical use in climbing such ruthlessly tall mountains—and he -took a solemn look at them, and said, “No, thanks!” Surgeon Parke’s line -was amid suffering humanity; Mr. Bonny was in bad luck—an obstinate -fever had gripped him, and reduced his limbs to mere sticks. Captain -Casati smiled mournfully, and seemed to say, “Look at me, and imagine -how far I could go.” But the Pasha’s honour was at stake; he had at all -times expressed rapture at the very thought, and this was the critical -period in the march of the Expedition, and Stairs took a sly glance at -the grim, unconquered heights, and said, “I’ll go, like a shot.” It only -remained for me to advise him, to furnish him with instruments, to -compare his aneroids with a standard one in camp, and supply the men -with many anxious counsels to avoid the cold, and to beware of chills -after an ascent.</p> - -<p>The night was an agreeable one. The altitude of the camp above the sea -was 3,860 feet, and a gentle, cool wind blew all night from the gap of -the Rumi-Lulu river. In the morning Stairs departed, and the Pasha -accompanied him. But, alas! the Pasha had to yield after a thousand -feet, and returned to camp, while Stairs held on his way. The following -is the report of his experiences:—</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="r"> -Expedition Camp,<br /> -<i>June 8th, 1889</i>.<br /> -</p> - -<p class="nind"> -<span class="smcap">Sir</span>,—<br /> -</p> - -<p>Early on the morning of the 6th June, accompanied by some forty -Zanzibaris, we made a start from the Expedition Camp at the -foot-hills of the range, crossed the stream close to a camp, and -commenced the ascent of the mountain.</p> - -<p>With me I had two aneroids, which together we had previously noted -and compared with a standard aneroid remaining in camp under your -immediate observation; also a Fahrenheit thermometer.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_277" id="page_277"></a>{277}</span></p> - -<p>For the first 900 feet above camp the climbing was fairly good, and -our progress was greatly aided by a native track which led up to -some huts in the hills. These huts we found to be of the ordinary -circular type so common on the plain, but with the difference that -bamboo was largely used in their interior construction. Here we -found the food of the natives to be maize, bananas, and colocassia -roots. On moving away from these huts, we soon left behind us the -long rank grass, and entered a patch of low scrubby bush, -intermixed with bracken and thorns, making the journey more -difficult.</p> - -<p>At 8.30 <small>A.M.</small> we came upon some more huts of the same type, and -found that the natives had decamped from them some days previously. -Here the barometer read 23·58 and 22·85; the thermometer 75° F. On -all sides of us we could see Dracænas, and here and there an -occasional tree-fern and palm: and, tangled in all shapes on either -side of the track, were masses of long bracken. The natives now -appeared at different hill-tops and points near by, and did their -best to frighten us back down the mountain, by shouting and blowing -horns. We, however, kept on our way up the slope, and in a short -time they disappeared and gave us very little further trouble.</p> - -<p>Of the forest plains, stretching far away below us, we could see -nothing, owing to the thick haze; we were thus prevented from -seeing the hills to the west and north-west.</p> - -<p>At 10 30 <small>A.M.</small>, after some sharp climbing, we reached the last -settlement of the natives, the cultivation consisting of beans and -colocassias, but no bananas. Here the barometer read 22·36; -thermometer 84° F. Beyond this settlement was a rough track leading -up the spur to the forest; this we followed, but in many places, to -get along at all, we had to crawl on our hands and knees, so steep -were the slopes.</p> - -<p>At 11 <small>A.M.</small> we reached this forest and found it to be one of -bamboos, at first open, and then getting denser as we ascended. We -had noticed a complete and sudden change in the air from that we -had just passed through. It became much cooler and more pure and -refreshing, and all went along at a faster rate and with lighter -hearts. Now that the Zanzibaris had come so far, they all appeared -anxious to ascend as high as possible, and began to chaff each -other as to who should bring down the biggest load of the “white -stuff” on the top of the mountain. At 12.40 <small>P.M.</small> we emerged from -the bamboos and sat down on a grassy spot to eat our lunch. -Barometers, 21·10 and 27·95/100. Thermometer, 70° F. Ahead of us, -and rising in one even slope, stood a peak, in altitude 1200 feet -higher than we were. This we now started to climb, and after going -up it a short distance, came upon the tree-heaths. Some of these -bushes must have been 20 feet high, and, as we had to cut our way -foot by foot through them, our progress was necessarily slow and -very fatiguing to those ahead.</p> - -<p>At 3.15 <small>P.M.</small> we halted among the heaths for a few moments to regain -our breath. Here and there were patches of inferior bamboos, almost -every stem having holes in it, made by some boring insect and quite -destroying its usefulness. Under foot was a thick spongy carpet of -wet moss, and the heaths on all sides of us, we noticed, were -covered with “old man’s beard” (<i>Usnea</i>). We found great numbers of -blue violets and lichens, and from this spot I brought away some -specimens of plants for the Pasha to classify. A general feeling of -cold dampness prevailed: in spite of our exertions in climbing, we -all felt the cold mist very much. It is this continual mist -clinging to the hill-tops that no doubt causes all the vegetation -to be so heavily charged with moisture and makes the ground under -foot somewhat slippery.</p> - -<p>Shortly after 4 <small>P.M.</small> we halted among some high heaths for camp.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_278" id="page_278"></a>{278}</span> -Breaking down the largest bushes we made rough shelters for -ourselves, collected what firewood we could find, and in other ways -made ready for the night. Firewood, however, was scarce, owing to -the wood being so wet that it would not burn. In consequence of -this, the lightly-clad Zanzibaris felt the cold very much, though -the altitude was only about 8,500 feet. On turning in the -thermometer registered 60° F. From camp I got a view of the peaks -ahead, and it was now that I began to fear that we should not be -able to reach the snow. Ahead of us, lying directly in our path, -were three enormous ravines; at the bottom of at least two of these -there was dense bush. Over these we should have to travel and cut -our way through the bush. It would then resolve itself into a -question of time as to whether we could reach the summit or not. I -determined to go on in the morning, and see exactly what -difficulties lay before us, and if these could be surmounted in a -reasonable time, to go on as far as we possibly could.</p></div> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill-278_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/ill-278_sml.jpg" width="323" height="264" alt="S.W. TWIN CONES OF RUWENZORI, BY LIEUT. STAIRS." -title="S.W. TWIN CONES OF RUWENZORI, BY LIEUT. STAIRS." /></a><br /> -<span class="caption">S.W. TWIN CONES OF RUWENZORI, BY LIEUT. STAIRS.</span> -</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>On the morning of the 7th, selecting some of the best men, and -sending the others down the mountain, we started off again upwards, -the climbing being similar to that we experienced yesterday -afternoon. The night had been bitterly cold, and some of the men -complained of fever, but all were in good spirits, and quite ready -to go on. About 10 <small>A.M.</small> we were stopped by the first of the ravines -mentioned above. On looking at this I saw that it would take a long -time to cross, and there were ahead of it still two others. We now -got our first glimpse of a snow peak, distance about two and a half -miles, and I judged it would take us still a day and a half to -reach this, the nearest snow. To attempt<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_279" id="page_279"></a>{279}</span> it, therefore, would only -end disastrously, unprovided as we were with food and some better -clothing for two of the men. I therefore decided to return, -trusting all the time that at some future camp a better opportunity -of making an ascent would present itself, and the summit be -reached. Across this ravine was a bare rocky peak, very clearly -defined and known to us as the south-west of the “Twin Cones.” The -upper part of this was devoid of vegetation, the steep beds of rock -only allowing a few grasses and heaths in one or two spots to -exist.</p> - -<p>The greatest altitude reached by us, after being worked out and all -connections applied, was about 10,677 feet above the sea. The -altitude of the snow peak above this would probably be about 6,000 -feet, making the mountain, say, 16,600 feet high. This, though, is -not the highest peak in the Ruwenzori cluster. With the aid of a -field-glass I could make out the form of the mountain-top -perfectly. The extreme top of the peak is crowned with an irregular -mass of jagged and precipitous rock, and has a distinct crater-like -form. I could see through a gap in the near side a corresponding -rim or edge on the farther of the same formation and altitude. From -this crown of rock, the big peak slopes to the eastward at a slope -of about 25° until shut out from view by an intervening peak; but -to the west the slope is much steeper. Of the snow, the greater -mass lay on that slope directly nearest us, covering the slope -wherever its inclination was not too great. The largest bed of snow -would cover a space measuring about 600 by 300 feet, and of such a -depth that in only two spots did the black rock crop out above its -surface. Smaller patches of snow extended well down into the -ravine; the height from the lowest snow to the summit of the peak -would be about 1200 feet or 1000 feet. To the E.N.E. our horizon -was bounded by the spur which, standing directly behind our main -camp, and mounting abruptly, takes a curve in a horizontal plane -and centres on to the snow peak. Again that spur which lay south of -us also radiated from the two highest peaks. This would seem to be -the general form of the mountain, namely, that the large spurs -radiate from the snow-peaks as a centre, and spread out to the -plains below. This formation on the west side of the mountain would -cause the streams to flow from the centre, and flow on, gradually -separating from each other until they reached the plains below. -Thence they turn to W.N.W., or trace their courses along the bottom -spurs of the range and run into the Semliki River, and on to the -Albert Nyanza. Of the second snow-peak, which we have seen on -former occasions, I could see nothing, owing to the “Twin Cones” -intervening. This peak is merely the termination, I should think, -of the snowy range we saw when at Kavalli, and has a greater -elevation, if so, than the peak we endeavoured to ascend. Many -things go to show that the existence of these peaks is due to -volcanic causes. The greatest proof that this is so lies in the -numbers of conical peaks clustering round the central mass on the -western side. These minor cones have been formed by the central -volcano getting blocked in its crater, owing to the pressure of its -gases not being sufficient to throw out the rock and lava from its -interior; and consequently the gases, seeking for weak spots, have -burst through the earth’s crust and thus been the means of forming -these minor cones that now exist. Of animal life on the mountain we -saw almost nothing. That game of some sort exists is plain from the -number of pitfalls we saw on the road-sides, and from the fact of -our finding small nooses in the natives’ huts, such as those used -for taking ground game.</p> - -<p>We heard the cries of an ape in a ravine, and saw several dull, -greyish-brown birds like stonechats, but beyond these nothing.</p> - -<p>We found blueberries and blackberries at an altitude of 10,000 -feet<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_280" id="page_280"></a>{280}</span> and over, and I have been able to hand over to the Pasha some -specimens for his collections, the generic names of which he has -kindly given me, and which are attached below. That I could not -manage to reach the snow and bring back some as evidence of our -work, I regret very much; but to have proceeded onwards to the -mountain under the conditions in which we were situated, I felt -would be worse than useless, and though all of us were keen and -ready to go on, I gave the order to return. I then read off the -large aneroid, and found the hand stood at 19·90. I set the -index-pin directly opposite to the hand, and we started down hill. -At 3 <small>P.M.</small> on the 7th, I reached you, it having taken four and a -half hours of marching from the “Twin Cones.”</p> - -<p class="r"> -I have the honour to be, &c.,<br /> -(Signed) <span class="smcap">W. G. Stairs</span>, Lieut. R.E.<br /> -</p> - -<p>P.S.—The following are the generic names of the plants collected -by me, as named by the Pasha:—</p></div> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="1" cellspacing="0" summary="" - class="tbl"> - -<tr><td align="right">1.</td><td>Clematis. </td><td align="right">14.</td><td>Sonchus.</td><td align="right">27.</td><td>Asplenium.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">2.</td><td>Viola.</td><td align="right">15.</td><td>Erica arborea.</td><td align="right">28.</td><td>Aspidium.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">3.</td><td>Hibiscus.</td><td align="right">16.</td><td>Landolphia.</td><td align="right">29.</td><td>Polypodium.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">4.</td><td>Impatiens.</td><td align="right">17.</td><td>Heliotropium.</td><td align="right">30.</td><td>Lycopodium.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">5.</td><td>Tephorsia.</td><td align="right">18.</td><td>Lantana.</td><td align="right">31.</td><td>Selaginella.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">6.</td><td>Elycina (?).</td><td align="right">19.</td><td>Mochosma.</td><td align="right">32.</td><td>Marchantia.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">7.</td><td>Rubus.</td><td align="right">20.</td><td>Lissochilus.</td><td align="right">33.</td><td>Parmelia.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">8.</td><td>Vaccinium.</td><td align="right">21.</td><td>Luzula.</td><td align="right">34.</td><td>Dracœna.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">9.</td><td>Begonia.</td><td align="right">22.</td><td>Carex.</td><td align="right">35.</td><td>Usnea.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">10.</td><td>Pencedanum.</td><td align="right">23.</td><td>Anthistiria.</td><td align="right">36.</td><td>Tree fern</td><td rowspan="3" valign="middle" - class="bl">—unknown.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">11.</td><td>Gnaphalium.</td><td align="right">24.</td><td>Adiantum.</td><td align="right">37.</td><td>One fern</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">12.</td><td>Helichrysum.</td><td align="right">25.</td><td>Pellia.</td><td align="right">38.</td><td>One polypodium</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">13.</td><td>Senecio.</td><td align="right">26.</td><td>Pteris aquilina.</td></tr> -</table> - -<p>Might we have been able to obtain a view over the Semliki Valley we -should have enjoyed one of exceeding interest. But we were unable to see -more through the thick sluggish mist than that, wide as it may be, it is -covered with a deep forest. The mist soared over the whole in irregular -streams or in one heavy mass, which gave it the aspect of an inverted -sky. Sometimes for a brief period a faint image of endless woods loomed -out, but the mist streamed upward through the foliage as though a -multitude of great geysers emitted vapours of hot steam. In the -immediate foreground it was not difficult to distinguish elevations and -depressions, or round basin-like hollows filled with the light-green -forests of banana groves.</p> - -<p>One of the Twin Cones was visible a few hundred yards from camp, and -after a careful measurement with alta-azimuth it was found to be 12,070 -feet.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_281" id="page_281"></a>{281}</span></p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />June 5.<br />Mtarego.</div> - -<p>After a halt of three days we struck camp, descended the precipitous -walls of the gorge of the Rami-lulu, and, traversing the narrow level, -shortly ascended up the equally wall-like slope on the other side, -discovering a fact which, but for the ascent and descent, we might not -have thought of, namely, that the Rami-lulu had channelled this deep -ditch through a terrace formed of the washings and scourings of soil off -the slopes. It was a débris, consisting of earth, rock, boulders, and -gravel, which had been washed down the gap and accompanied by landslips -of so great a magnitude as to have choked up the course of the river and -formed quite an extensive and elevated tract, but the Rami-lulu had -eventually furrowed and grooved itself deeply through, and so the great -bank of material lies cut in two, to the depth of 200 feet, sufficiently -instructive.</p> - -<p>At early dawn a Madi chief was speared by a bold native. About a mile -from Mtarega the grassy strip to which we had clung in preference was -ended, the forest had marched across the breadth of the Semliki Valley, -and had absorbed the Ruwenzori slopes to a height of seven thousand feet -above us, and whether we would or no, we had to enter the doleful shades -again. But then the perfection of a tropical forest was around us. It -even eclipsed the Ituri Valley in the variety of plants and general -sappiness. There were clumps of palms, there were giant tree-ferns, -there were wild bananas, and tall, stately trees all coated with thick -green moss from top to root, impenetrable thickets of broad-leafed -plants, and beads of moisture everywhere, besides tiny rillets oozing -out every few yards from under the matted tangle of vivid green and -bedewed undergrowth. It was the best specimen of a tropical conservatory -I had ever seen. It could not be excelled if art had lent its aid to -improve nature. In every tree-fork and along the great horizontal -branches grew the loveliest ferns and lichens; the elephant ear by the -dozen, the orchids in close fellowship, and the bright green moss had -formed soft circular cushions about them, and on almost every fibre -there trembled a clear water-drop, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_282" id="page_282"></a>{282}</span> everything was bathed by a most -humid atmosphere. The reason of all this was not far to seek; there were -three hot-water springs, the temperature of which was 102°. This tract -of forest was also in the cosiest fold of the snow mountains, and -whatever heat a hot sun furnished on this place was long retained.</p> - -<p>We camped in a dry spot in this forest, and the next day, after marching -a distance of six and a quarter miles, we emerged out of it into the -superb clearing of Ulegga, and sought shelter in a straggling village -within a bow-shot reach of the mountains. Banana groves clothed the -slopes and ran up the ravines, and were ranged along the base line, and -extended out in deep frondiose groves far into the Semliki Valley. There -were bananas everywhere; and there was no lack of tobacco, or of Indian -corn, or of two kinds of beans, or of yams, and colocassia.</p> - -<p>We entered into this district suspicious and suspecting; the death of -the Madi chief had impressed us that we should not be too confident, and -that vigilance was necessary day and night. At the first village the -advance guard encountered men who unhesitatingly resented their -intrusion, and began hostilities, and this had created an impression -that an important effort would be made. Wherever we looked there were -villages, and if courage aided numbers the people were capable of an -obstinate resistance. So we pressed bands of armed men up to the -mountains, and the skirmishing was brisk, but at 4 <small>P.M.</small> Matyera, a Bari -interpreter among the Pasha’s followers, managed to get speech of a few -natives, and succeeded in inducing the chief to consent to peace. He -came in and said that he had come to throw himself at our feet to be -slain or saved. The trumpeters sounded to cease firing, and within two -minutes there was a dead silence.</p> - -<p>This chief and his friends were the first representatives of Ukonju we -had seen, and the devoted mission of the chief instantly won our -sympathy and admiration. I was rather disappointed in their appearance, -however, though needlessly upon reflection. There is no reason, save a -fancy, why I should have expected those<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_283" id="page_283"></a>{283}</span> mountaineers familiar with -mountain altitudes to be lighter in complexion than the people in the -Semliki and Ituri Valley forests; but the truth is, they are much darker -than even the Zanzibaris. Supposing a people dwelt around a base line of -the Swiss Alps, and an irresistible army of Scandinavians swept up to -them, the aboriginal inhabitants would naturally take refuge up the -mountains, and in the same manner these dark-complexioned people of the -true negroid type found themselves unable to resist the invasions of the -Indo-African Wachwezi and the coppery-faced tribes of the forest, and -sought shelter in the hills, and recesses of the Equatorial Alps, and -round about them ebbed and flowed the paler tribes, and so the Wakonju -were confined to their mountains.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />June 10.<br />Ulegga.</div> - -<p>During our march to Mtsora on the next day we crossed five streams, -which, descending from the mountains, flowed to the Semliki. One of -these was of considerable volume and called the Butahu River, the -temperature of which was 57° Fahrenheit.</p> - -<p>At Mtsora we received in a short time a good local knowledge from the -Wakonju who were now our friends. I learned the following items of -interest.</p> - -<p>We were told that a few miles north of here was an arm of the upper lake -which we had heard so much about, and which I discovered in January, -1876. They call it the Ingezi, which in Kinyoro, means river, swamp, or -small lake. The Ruweru, or lake, was two days’ march south.</p> - -<p>They also called it the Nyanza; and when I asked its name, they replied, -Muta-Nzige, and some of them knew of three Muta-Nziges—the -“Muta-Nzige,” of Unyoro, the “Muta-Nzige,” of Usongora, the -“Muta-Nzige,” of Uganda.</p> - -<p>As for Nyanzas, the number became perplexing. There is the Nyanza of -Unyoro, the Nyanza of Usongora; the Nyanza of Unyampaka; the Nyanza of -Toro; the Nyanza Semliki; the Nyanza Unyavingi; the Nyanza of Karagwé; -and the Nyanza of Uganda. So that a river of any importance feeding a -lake, becomes a<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_284" id="page_284"></a>{284}</span> Nyanza, a large bay becomes a Nyanza; a small lake, or -a greater, is known as a Nyanza, or Ruweru.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />June 11.<br />Mtsora.</div> - -<p>Those semi-Ethiopic peoples who were known to us at Kavalli, as the -Wahuma, Waima, Wawitu, Wachwezi, were now called Waiyana, Wanyavingi, -Wasongora, and Wanyankori.</p> - -<p>Ruwenzori, called already Bugombowa, Avirika, and Viruka, by the forest -tribes, became now known as the Ruwenzu-ru-ru, or Ruwenjura, according -as a native might be able to articulate.</p> - -<p>The Butahu River separates Ulegga from Uringa.</p> - -<p>The Wara-Sura were gathered under Rukara, a general of Kabba Rega, King -of Unyoro. Some of these ferocious raiders were said to be stationed at -the ferry of Waiyana, a few miles north of here. The Wakonju offered to -assist us to drive them out of the land.</p> - -<p>We were told that Rukara’s headquarters were at Katwé, a town near the -Salt Lakes, which are somewhat to the south.</p> - -<p>That on the western bank of the Semliki are the tribes Wakovi and -Wasoki, and that there are also Watwa pigmies.</p> - -<p>We were informed that Usongora and Toro had submitted to Kabba Rega; but -the inhabitants of the lake islands refused to promise allegiance, and -it was said Kakuri, the chief, had applied to the Wanyavingi and -Wanyankori for assistance against Kabba Rega. We were promised the -submission of all the Wakonju and Wasangora if we entered into treaty or -agreement with them, and I accepted the offer.</p> - -<p>The Wakonju people are round-headed, broad faced, and of medium size. -They affect circlets manufactured of calamus fibre, very slender, and -covering the ankles by hundreds. They also wear a large number on the -upper arm. The chiefs also are distinguished by heavy copper or brass -wristlets. The women’s neck decorations consist of heavy iron rings -coiled spirally at the ends. On the slopes of the mountain, I am told, -is found much fine crystal quartz.</p> - -<p>At the entrance of almost every village in Ukonju<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_285" id="page_285"></a>{285}</span> may be seen a -miniature tent, with a very small doorway, before which the natives -place a banana or an egg. A tradition exists that Mikonju, the founder -of the tribe who first cleared the forest, and planted bananas, -initiated this custom to prevent theft. It is a tithe offered to the -fetish or spirit to remind it that they wish their banana groves, or the -eggs whence issue fowls, protected.</p> - -<p>On the 12th of June I despatched Lieutenant Stairs, with sixty rifles -and a number of Wakonju guides, to proceed to the Semliki, and satisfy -all doubts about it; and on the next day he returned, having been -favourably received by the natives, who tendered their submission, and -accompanied our officer to the river explaining to him every matter of -interest. He found it forty-two yards wide, and ten feet deep, sunk -between banks of fifty and sixty feet high, and with a current of three -miles per hour. After tasting and looking at it, and questioning all the -natives who could impart information, he concluded that:—I. Because of -the unbroken appearance of the range westward, which has faced the -Ruwenzori range ever since leaving the Albert; II. Because of the -peculiar grey, muddy colour; III. Because of the peculiar flavour, which -is slightly saline, and “unsatisfying,” like that of the Albert Lake; -IV. Because of the unanimous statement of the natives that it flows a -little west of north, then north, then north-easterly to the Lake of -Unyoro, which is the Albert; V. Because of the positive assurance of one -native traveller, who is acquainted with the river along its course, -from its exit out of one lake to its entering into the other; the -Semliki river leaves the upper lake, takes a winding course, with a -strong inclination to the western range, when, after turning to the -north-east, it gradually draws nearer the Ruwenzori range, flows through -Awamba forest and Utuku into the Albert Nyanza.</p> - -<p>From an anthill near Mtsora, I observed that from W.N.W., a mile away, -commenced a plain, which was a duplicate of that which had so deceived -the Egyptians, and caused them to hail it as their lake, and that it<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_286" id="page_286"></a>{286}</span> -extended southerly, and appeared as though it were the bed of a lake -from which the waters had recently receded. The Semliki, which had -drained it dry, was now from 50 to 60 feet below the crest of its banks. -The slopes, consisting of lacustrine deposits, grey loam, and sand, -could offer no resistance to a three-mile current, and if it were not -for certain reefs, formed by the bed-rock under the surface of the -lacustrine deposit, it is not to be doubted that such a river would soon -drain the upper lake. The forest ran across from side to side of the -valley, a dark barrier, in very opposite contrast to the bleached grass -which the nitrous old bed of the lake nourished.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />June 12.<br />Mtsora.</div> - -<p>We had a magnificent view of Ruwenzori just before sunset one evening -during our halt in Mtsora. A large field of snow, and snow-peaks beyond -the foremost line, appeared in view. During the whole day our eyes had -rested on a long line of dark and solemn spurs, their summits buried in -leaden mist; but soon after 5 <small>P.M.</small> the upper extremities of those spurs -loomed up one after another, and a great line of mountain shoulders -stood out; then peak after peak struggled from behind night-black clouds -into sight, until at last the snowy range, immense and beautiful, a -perfect picture of beautiful and majestic desolateness, drew all eyes -and riveted attention, while every face seemed awed. The natives told us -that the meaning of the word Ruwenzori means the Rain-Maker, or Cloud -King.</p> - -<p>On the 14th of June, escorted by a large following of Wakonju, we -marched four and a half hours, and entered Muhamba, in Usongora. Soon -after leaving Mtsora we had descended into the grassy plains, which had -been within a calculable period a portion of the bed of the lake we were -now approaching. About half way, we passed a respectable tributary of -the Semliki, called the Rwimi, which separates Ukonju from Usongora. One -of the streams we crossed soon after issued from a hot-spring.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />June 15.<br />Karimi.</div> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill-286_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/ill-286_sml.jpg" width="531" height="351" alt="RUWENZORI, FROM MTSORA." -title="RUWENZORI, FROM MTSORA." /></a><br /> -<span class="caption">RUWENZORI, FROM MTSORA.</span> -</p> - -<p>The next day, an hour’s march from Muhamba, we left the plain and -commenced the ascent of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_288" id="page_288"></a>{288}</span><a name="page_289" id="page_289"></a><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_287" id="page_287"></a>{287}</span> mountains, as the range declining towards -the south forms a lengthened hilly promontory, dividing Usongora into -western and eastern divisions, lying on either side of it, and both -being in past times covered by the lake. After an ascent of about 1,500 -feet, a world of hills rose before us, and a view worthy of memory would -have been obtained but for the eternal mist covering the grander ranges. -Still, it was a fascinating sight, and one that in the time to come will -be often painted and sketched and described. It reminded me greatly of -the lower Alps, as viewed from Berne, though these successive ranges of -African Alps are much higher; but the white-headed mountain kings rose -far above these even, and at this time were hidden in the murky clouds. -Having crossed the promontory, we descended 300 feet, and, crossing a -profound and narrow valley, camped at Karimi.</p> - -<p>At 5.15 <small>P.M.</small> the mists and fogs were blown away from the crowns of -Ruwenzori, and for once we enjoyed the best view obtained yet, a -description of which must be referred to in another chapter. The -photographic apparatus was up in a short time, to perpetuate one of the -rarest sights in the world, of one of the grandest views that Africa can -furnish.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />June 16.<br />Rusessé.</div> - -<p>On the 16th June, after a long march of four and three-quarter hours, we -arrived at the zeriba of Rusessé. We descended from Karimi about 700 -feet to the plain of Eastern Usongora, and an hour later we came to -Ruverahi River, 40 feet wide, and a foot deep; an ice-cold stream, clear -as crystal and fresh from the snows. Ruwenzori was all the morning in -sight, a bright vision of mountain beauty and glory. As we approached -Rusessé a Msongora herdsman, in the employ of Rukara, the General of the -Wara-Sura, came across the plain, and informed us that he could direct -us to one of Rukara’s herds. We availed ourselves of his kind offices, -which he was performing as a patriot son of the soil tyrannised over and -devastated by Rukara; and fifty rifles were sent with him, and in -fifteen minutes we were in possession of a fine herd of twenty-five fat -cattle, which we<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_290" id="page_290"></a>{290}</span> drove without incident with our one hundred head to -the zeriba of Rusessé. From a bank of cattle-dung, so high as to be like -a great earthwork round about the village, we gained our first view of -the Albert Edward Nyanza, at a distance of three miles.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_291" id="page_291"></a>{291}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXIX" id="CHAPTER_XXIX"></a>CHAPTER XXIX.<br /><br /> -THE SOURCES OF THE NILE—THE MOUNTAINS OF THE MOON, AND THE FOUNTAINS OF -THE NILE.</h2> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hangg">Père Jerome Lobo and the Nile—The chartographers of Homer’s -time—Hekatæus’s ideas of Africa—Africa after Hipparchus—The -great Ptolemy’s map—Edrisi’s map—Map of the Margarita -Philosophica—Map of John Ruysch—Sylvannus’ Map—Sebastian Cabot’s -map—The arbitrariness of the modern map-maker—Map of Constable, -Edinburgh—What Hugh Murray says in his book published in 1818—A -fine dissertation on the Nile by Father Lobo—Extracts from part of -a MS. in the possession of H. E. Ali Pasha Moubarek—Plan of Mount -Gumr—A good description of Africa by Scheabeddin—The Nile -according to Abdul Hassen Ali—Abu Abd Allah Mohammed on the Nile -river.</p></div> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />June.<br />The Nile.</div> - -<p>Every reader of this chapter will agree with Père Jerome Lobo, of the -Company of Jesus, who wrote in the 16th century, that “it is not -difficult, after having found the sources of the Nile, and of the rivers -that run into it, to resolve the question as to its origin—a question -that has caused so much anxiety to ancient and modern authors, because -they were looking for that which could not be discovered in their heads, -by which they were lost in vain thoughts and reasonings.”</p> - -<p>For the complacent satisfaction of those who have not undergone the -harassing anxieties attending the exploration of the countries in the -region of the Nile sources, and who would prefer to content themselves -with reading about them at home before a sparkling fire and under the -light of the parlour lamp, I beg to present them with a few copies of -ancient maps, from Homer’s time, forty centuries ago, down to those -whence we derived instruction in African geography. They will observe -with pleasure that we have not much to boast of; that the ancient -travellers, geographers, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_292" id="page_292"></a>{292}</span> authors had a very fair idea whence the -Nile issued, that they had heard of the Lunae Montes, and the triple -lakes, and of the springs which gave birth to the famous river of Egypt. -We only claim to have barred for a time the periodic flights of these -interesting features of Africa, from 10° north latitude to as far as 20° -south latitude, and from east to west Africa, and to have located with -reasonable precision the grand old Mountains of the Moon, and the -Albertine and Victorine sources of the Nile. And for a time only! For -“what profit hath a man of all his labour which he taketh under the sun? -One generation passeth away, and another generation cometh. The thing -that hath been, it is that which shall be; and that which is done is -that which shall be done: and there is no new thing under the sun. Is -there anything whereof it may be said, See, this is new? it hath been -already of old time, which was before us. There is no remembrance of -former things; neither shall there be any remembrance of things that are -to come with those that shall come after.”</p> - -<p>What the chartographers of Homer’s time illustrated of geographical -knowledge succeeding chartographers effaced, and what they in their turn -sketched was expunged by those who came after them. In vain explorers -sweated under the burning sun, and endured the fatigues and privations -of arduous travel: in vain did they endeavour to give form to their -discoveries, for in a few years the ruthless map-maker obliterated all -away. Cast your eyes over these series of small maps, and witness for -yourselves what this tribe has done to destroy every discovery, and to -render labour and knowledge vain. There <i>is</i> a chartographer living, the -chiefest sinner alive. In 1875, I found a bay at the north-east end of -Lake Victoria. A large and mountainous island, capacious enough to -supply 20,000 people with its products of food, blocked the entrance -from the lake into it, but there is a winding strait at either end of -sufficient depth and width to enable an Atlantic liner to steam in -boldly. The bay has been<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_293" id="page_293"></a>{293}</span> wiped out, the great island has been shifted -elsewhere, and the picturesque channels are not in existence on his -latest maps, and they will not be restored until some other traveller, -years hence, replaces them as they stood in 1875. And young travellers -are known to chuckle with malicious pleasure at all this, forgetful of -what old Solomon said in the olden time: “There is no remembrance of -former things; neither shall there be any remembrance of things that are -to come with those that shall come after.”</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill-293_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/ill-293_sml.jpg" width="217" height="142" alt="Africa in Homer’s World." -title="Africa in Homer’s World." /></a><br /> -<span class="caption">Africa in Homer’s World.</span> -</p> - -<p>So, though it is some satisfaction to be able to vindicate the more -ancient geographers to some extent, I publish at the end of the series -of old maps the small chart which illustrates what we have verified -during our late travels. I do it with the painful consciousness that -some stupid English or German map-maker within the next ten years may, -from spleen and ignorance, shift the basin 300 or 400 miles farther east -or west, north or south, and entirely expunge our labours. However, I am -comforted that on some shelf of the British Museum will be found a copy -of ‘In Darkest Africa,’ which shall contain these maps, and that I have -a chance of being brought forth as an honest witness of the truth, in -the same manner as I cite the learned geographers of the olden time to -the confusion of the map-makers of the nineteenth century.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_294" id="page_294"></a>{294}</span></p> - -<p>In the little sketch of ‘Homer’s World,’ which I have taken the liberty -of copying, with a few others, from Judge Daly’s<a name="FNanchor_13_13" id="FNanchor_13_13"></a><a href="#Footnote_13_13" class="fnanchor">[13]</a> learned and -valuable contribution to the knowledge of ancient geography, it will be -seen that the Nile is traced up to an immense range of mountains, beyond -which are located the pigmies.</p> - -<p>Five centuries later a celebrated traveller called Hekatæus illustrates -his ideas of Africa in a map given below. Though he had visited Egypt, -it is quite clear that not many new discoveries had been made. According -to him the great Egyptian river takes its rise at the southern extremity -of Africa, where the pigmies live.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill-294_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/ill-294_sml.jpg" width="220" height="104" alt="AFRICA IN MAP OF HEKATÆUS. 500 B.C." -title="AFRICA IN MAP OF HEKATÆUS. 500 B.C." /></a><br /> -<span class="caption">AFRICA IN MAP OF HEKATÆUS. 500 B.C.</span> -</p> - -<p>The next map of Africa that I wish to introduce for inspection is by the -“greatest astronomer of antiquity,” Hipparchus, who lived 100 years B.C. -His sketch contains three distinct lakes, but situate far north of the -equator.</p> - -<p>Here follows the great Ptolemy, the Ravenstein or Justas Perthes of his -period. Some new light has been thrown by his predecessors, and he has -revised and embellished what was known. He has removed the sources of -the Nile, with scientific confidence, far south of the equator, and -given to the easternmost lake the name of Coloe Palus.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_295" id="page_295"></a>{295}</span></p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill-295a_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/ill-295a_sml.jpg" width="208" height="124" alt="HIPPARCHUS. 100 B.C." -title="HIPPARCHUS. 100 B.C." /></a><br /> -<span class="caption">HIPPARCHUS. 100 B.C.</span> -</p> - -<p>A thousand years elapse, and bring us to Edrisi, an Arab geographer, -1154 <small>A.D.</small> Some little information has been gained in the meanwhile of -the Dark Interior. The Mountains of the Moon are prominent now, but -several degrees south of the equator. Two of the lakes discharge their -surplus waters to a third lake, which is north, whence the Nile issues, -flowing northward towards Egypt. We see in it the results of -geographical conferences, and many inquiries from ivory traders.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill-295b_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/ill-295b_sml.jpg" width="287" height="165" alt="PTOLEMY’S MAP. A.D. 150." -title="PTOLEMY’S MAP. A.D. 150." /></a><br /> -<span class="caption">PTOLEMY’S MAP. A.D. 150.</span> -</p> - -<p>Four centuries later we see, by the following map, that the lakes have -changed their position. Ambitious chartographers have been eliciting -information from the latest traveller. They do not seem to be so well -ac<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_296" id="page_296"></a>{296}</span>quainted with the distant region around the Nile sources as those -ancients preceding Edrisi. Nevertheless, the latest travellers must know -best.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill-296a_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/ill-296a_sml.jpg" width="295" height="179" alt="Central Africa according to Edrisi. 1154 a.d." -title="Central Africa according to Edrisi. 1154 a.d." /></a><br /> -<span class="caption">Central Africa according to Edrisi. 1154 a.d.</span> -</p> - -<p>But in the short space of five years new light has been thrown again, or -is it the mere vagary of a chartographer? Lo! the “Mountains of the -Moon” are restored many degrees below the equator, but there are only -two lakes south of the equator, while the third has travelled to an -immense distance north of the line.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill-296b_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/ill-296b_sml.jpg" width="283" height="127" alt="MAP OF THE MARGARITA PHILOSOPHICA A.D. 1503" -title="MAP OF THE MARGARITA PHILOSOPHICA A.D. 1503" /></a><br /> -<span class="caption">MAP OF THE MARGARITA PHILOSOPHICA A.D. 1503</span> -</p> - -<p>Within three years Africa seems to have been battered<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_297" id="page_297"></a>{297}</span> out of shape -somewhat. The three lakes have been attracted to one another; between -two of the lakes the Mountains of the Moon begin to take form and rank. -The Mons Lunæ are evidently increasing in height and length. As Topsy -might have said, “specs they have grown some.”</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill-297a_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/ill-297a_sml.jpg" width="218" height="159" alt="JOHN RUYSCH A.D. 1508." -title="JOHN RUYSCH A.D. 1508." /></a><br /> -<span class="caption">JOHN RUYSCH A.D. 1508.</span> -</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill-297b_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/ill-297b_sml.jpg" width="171" height="196" alt="SYLVANNUS’ MAP A.D. 1511" -title="SYLVANNUS’ MAP A.D. 1511" /></a><br /> -<span class="caption">SYLVANNUS’ MAP A.D. 1511</span> -</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_298" id="page_298"></a>{298}</span></p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill-298a_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/ill-298a_sml.jpg" width="229" height="168" alt="HIERONIMUS DE VERRAZANO 1529" -title="HIERONIMUS DE VERRAZANO 1529" /></a><br /> -<span class="caption">HIERONIMUS DE VERRAZANO 1529</span> -</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill-298b_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/ill-298b_sml.jpg" width="223" height="265" alt="SEBASTIAN CABOT’S MAP OF THE WORLD 16th Century" -title="SEBASTIAN CABOT’S MAP OF THE WORLD 16th Century" /></a><br /> -<span class="caption">SEBASTIAN CABOT’S MAP OF THE WORLD 16th Century</span> -</p> - -<p>In the following map we see a reproduction of Sebastian Cabot’s map in -the sixteenth century. I have<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_299" id="page_299"></a>{299}</span> omitted the pictures of elephants and -crocodiles, great emperors and dwarfs, which are freely scattered over -the map with somewhat odd taste. The three lakes have arranged -themselves in line again, and the Mountains of the Moon are -picturesquely banked at the top head of all the streams, but the -continent evidently suggests unsteadiness generally, judging from the -form of it.</p> - -<p>That from the sixteenth to the middle of the nineteenth century very -little further knowledge respecting the sources of the Nile was known -may be proved by the map of my school-days, which follows. There is a -distinct retrogression by the determined stupidity of the map-maker. All -that we had gathered since the days of old Homer down to the seventeenth -century—all the lakes are swept away—the Mountains of the Moon run -from about 5° to about 10° north of the equator, and extend from Long. -20° to the Gulf of Aden. We simply owe our ignorance to the map-makers. -We no sooner discover some natural feature than it is removed in a next -issue.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill-299_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/ill-299_sml.jpg" width="289" height="199" alt="THE NILE SOURCES ACCORDING to GEOGRAPHERS of the 16TH & 17TH CENTURIES" -title="THE NILE SOURCES ACCORDING to GEOGRAPHERS of the 16TH & 17TH CENTURIES" /></a><br /> -<span class="caption">THE NILE SOURCES ACCORDING to GEOGRAPHERS of the 16TH -& 17TH CENTURIES</span> -</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1888.<br /> June.<br />The Nile.</div> - -<p>The arbitrariness of the modern map-maker is as bad as that of his -predecessors. In a late German map, for instance, considered to be the -best in Germany, there is<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_300" id="page_300"></a>{300}</span> a large bay removed altogether from the -Victoria Nyanza, and a straight line, drawn by pure caprice, usurps the -place of a very interesting and much indented coastline, explored by me -in 1875. Speke’s Lake Urigi is jostled to the east, shunted to the -north; Ukerewe is utterly out of order, and the Tanganika has a great -bay named after a person who had followed in the steps of six preceding -investigators. Lake Leopold II. narrowly escaped being sponged out -because two Germans, Kund (?) and Tappenbeck, had lost their way, and -could not find it; but in the meantime an English missionary visited it, -and it was left in peace. English map-makers are quite as capricious.</p> - -<p>This map, for instance, which has made such cruel and wicked changes of -Homer, Hipparchus, Ptolemy, and others, was published by Constable in -1819, in a fit of aggravated biliousness no doubt.</p> - -<p>Hugh Murray, a compiler of African travels, published in London, 1818, a -book called an ‘Historical Account of Discoveries and Travels in -Africa,’ and as he has been an industrious collator of testimony which -the best authors of twenty centuries could furnish, I avail myself of -his assistance. He says:</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>“Herodotus shows himself to have known the course of the Nile -higher probably than it has been traced by any modern European.</p> - -<p>“From Elephantine at the southern extremity of Egypt (Assouan) to -Meroe, the capital of Ethiopia, was a journey of fifty-two days, -and from thence an equal distance to the country of <i>Automolos</i>, or -exiles,<a name="FNanchor_14_14" id="FNanchor_14_14"></a><a href="#Footnote_14_14" class="fnanchor">[14]</a> making in all a hundred and four days’ journey. The -regions deeper in the interior were known to him only by the very -short narrative of the ‘Excursion of the Nassamones.’ The river to -which the travellers were carried flowing to the eastward is -believed to have been the Niger, though Herodotus conceived it to -be the Nile. As it was proved by this data to proceed from the -west, it appeared natural that this river was one of the main -branches.</p> - -<p>“Eratosthenes compared Africa to a trapezium, of which the -Mediterranean coast formed one side, the Nile another, the southern -coast the longest side, and the western coast the shortest side. So -little were the ancients aware of its extent that Pliny pronounced -it to be the least of the continents, and inferior to Europe. Upon -the Nile, therefore, they measured the habitable world of Africa, -and fixed its limit at the highest known point to which that river -had been ascended. This is assigned about three thousand stadia -(three or four hundred miles)<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_301" id="page_301"></a>{301}</span> beyond Meroe. They seem to have been -fully aware of two great rivers rising from lakes and called the -Astaboras and Astapus, of which the latter (White Nile) flows from -the lake to the south, is swelled to a great height by summer rains -and forms then almost the main body of the Nile.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill-301_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/ill-301_sml.jpg" width="303" height="382" alt="MAP of the NILE BASIN. 1819. A.D." -title="MAP of the NILE BASIN. 1819. A.D." /></a><br /> -<span class="caption">MAP of the NILE BASIN. 1819. A.D.</span> -</p> - -<p>“Equal in fame with the Geographical School of Eratosthenes was -that of Ptolemy. This school displays an increase of actual -knowledge which was not, however, always accompanied by sounder -views respecting undiscovered regions. Ptolemy appears to have been -the first who formed a correct idea of the whole course of the -Nile, and assigns to its fountains a place in the vast range of the -Mountains of the Moon. But he places his Ethiopia interior much -further south beyond the equator, nearly in the latitude of Raptum” -(Kilwa?).</p></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_302" id="page_302"></a>{302}</span></p> - -<p>The Prior of Neuville les Dames et de Prevessin, who published extracts -from Father Lobo, the Portuguese Jesuit, launches into a fine -dissertation on the Nile, some portions of which are as follows:—</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>“The greatest men of antiquity have passionately endeavoured to -discover the sources of the Nile, imagining, after a career of -conquest, that this discovery was only needed to consummate their -glory. Cambyses lost many people and much time in this search.”</p> - -<p>“When Alexander the Great consulted the oracle of Jupiter of Ammon -the first thing he desired to know was whence the Nile sprang, and -having camped on the Indus he believed that he had at last -succeeded.”</p> - -<p>“Ptolemy Philadelphia waged war on Ethiopia with a view to ascend -the Nile. He took the town of Axum, as may be seen by the -inscriptions that Cosmos Indoplustes has preserved, which he copied -during the reign of Emperor Justin I.”</p> - -<p>“Lucan makes Cæsar say in his ‘Pharsalia,’ that he would readily -abandon the design of warring against his country could he be happy -enough to see the primal fountains of the Nile:</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i2">“‘Nihil est quod noscere malim,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Quam fluvii causas per sæcula tanta latentes,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Ignotumque caput: spes sit mihi certa videndi<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Niliacos fontes; bellum civile relinquam.’”<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>“Nero was animated by the same thirst for glory, for he despatched -armies to make this discovery, but the report submitted to him -removed all hope of success.”</p> - -<p>“The ancients therefore, searching in vain for the sources of the -Nile, attempted to conceal their ignorance by mysteries, and they -related them in fables. Even the interpreters of Holy Scripture -were not exempt from this defect, as they knew no other lands on -Ethiopia than that of Africa; they thought that Gihon, mentioned in -Genesis, was the Nile, not being able to go against the Scriptures, -where it is said that the Gihon has its spring in the terrestrial -paradise, and it waters the land of Chus; it passes through under -the seas and under the earth to reappear in Ethiopia. How many -clever men have endeavoured to clear up these fables? and how many -different systems were got up? The Bishop of Avranches supports, in -his ‘Treatise of the Terrestrial Paradise,’ that the Gihon is an -easternly branch of the Euphrates, which flows from the country of -Eden and passes along the country of Chus, now the Cheezeslam. He -adds that Homer makes out that it descends from Jupiter, and calls -it <span title="Greek: Dêtetê">Δητετἡ</span>; this is what has caused Plautus to say, in -speaking of a river, which he does not name, that it has its source -in heaven and under the throne of Jupiter. The Egyptians, -Ethiopians, Abyssinians, Gymnosophists, after making out this river -to be a divinity, have thought themselves obliged to maintain the -old errors—even the most absurd ones. Therefore we should not be -astonished, after the poets having attributed a heavenly origin to -the Nile, if the Egyptians, who owe the fertility of their country -to it, have built temples, have erected altars, have established -festivals in its honour, finally, if they have adored it under the -name of Osiris.”</p> - -<p>“The Jews and the Mohammedans, who are far from each other in -idolatry, have thought that the waters of the Nile were holy and -blessed, and the Agaus, who live in the environs of the sources of -this river,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_303" id="page_303"></a>{303}</span> although instructed in the Christian religion, still -offer sacrifices; so that obstinacy and vanity support the -superstitions and the idolatries that ignorance has introduced.”</p> - -<p>“The Nile has changed its name, according to the times and places: -‘Nec ante Nilus, quam se totum aquis concordibus rursus junxit. Sic -quoque etiamnum Siris, ut ante, nominatus per aliquos in totum -Homero Ægyptus, aliisque Triton.’ Pliny does not say, as some -others have said, that it was the Nile which at first had the name -of ‘Egypt,’ but it has given it to the countries it watered while -running into the sea, or it is called so after the name of the -country, as rivers are ordinarily called after the name of the -countries they pass through. Hesychius pretends that the Nile was -at first called Egypt, and that it is this river which has given -its name to the country: <span title="Greek: Aigyptos, ho Neilos ho potamos -ach’ ou kai ê chara hypo tous neôterous Aigyptos epônomasmenos"> -Αἱγυπτος, ὁ Νεἱλος ὁ ποταμὁς ἁχ’ οὑ καἱ ἡ χαρἁ ὑπὁ τος νεωτεροὑς Αἱγυπτος ἑπωνομασμἑνος</span> -(Ægyptus, Nilus fluvius à quo regio à recentioribus Ægyptus est -appellata). Egypt, nevertheless, is not the first name under which -it was known; before it was called Oceanus, afterwards Aetus or -Aquila, then Ægyptus, and from thence it was called Triton, on -account of these three names; finally, it is known now by the -Greeks as well as the Latins by the name of Nile. According to -Pliny it takes the name of Syris by passing through the country of -Syene. The Egyptians, who think themselves indebted to it for the -fecundity of their country and for all its products, have called it -the Saviour, the Sun, the God, sometimes the Father. In the -Ethiopian language, as used by the learned, it is called <span class="smcap">Gejon</span>, and -he believes that it may have been called so after the name of -Gihon, of which Moses speaks in his description of the terrestrial -paradise, where he says, ‘Et nomen fluvii fecundi Gihon: ipse qui -circumit omnem terram Æthiopiæ.’ Vatable, in explaining the word -Kuseh or Æthiopia, says that this must mean the Eastern Ethiopia, -‘de Æthiopia Orientali intelligit.’ The Nile or the Gejon do not -environ the whole of Ethiopia or the whole of Abyssinia, but merely -a portion, which is the kingdom of Goyam.”</p> - -<p>“It will easily be seen shortly how many false hypotheses, how many -false reasonings, have been made on the subject; however, there are -still people so obstinate of the antiquity, that they will not put -faith in those who have been on the spot, and who, having witnessed -with their own eyes, could efface what the ancients had written -about them. It was difficult and even impossible in following the -course of the Nile to go up to its source; those who undertook it -were always stopped by the cataracts, and despairing that neither -they themselves or others could succeed, they invented a thousand -stories. Let us add that neither the Greeks nor the Romans, who are -the only ones from whom we have borrowed all our knowledge, have -ever carried their arms to that side; who have not even heard -spoken of so many barbarous nations who live along this great -river; that the land where the Nile springs from, and all those in -its environs, are only inhabited by savage and barbarous people; -that to arrive there terrible mountains will have to be crossed, -impenetrable forests, deserts full of wild beasts, who hardly find -there anything to live on. If, however, those who have made so many -attempts to discover the source of the Nile had gone though the Red -Sea they might with less trouble and expense found what they were -looking for.”</p></div> - -<p>After hearing what the ancients said and thought of the sources of the -Nile, let us see what we are able to gather from the Arabs:</p> - -<p>The following are extracts from part of a manuscript,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_304" id="page_304"></a>{304}</span> in the possession -of H. E. Ali Pasha Moubarek, the present Minister of Public Instruction, -Egypt. The name of the compiler is not given; only the date, 1098 <small>A.H.</small> = -1686 <small>A.D.</small> They are translated by Mr. Vandyck, teacher of English in the -Government Schools, Cairo.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>“Abu el Fadel, son of Kadama, says in his book, ‘that all rivers in -inhabited countries are 228 in number. Some flow like the Nile, -from south to north, some flow from east to west, and some flow -from north to south, and some flow in more than one of these -directions, like the Euphrates and the Gihon.’ He further says, ‘As -for the Nile, it starts from the Mountains of Gumr (Kamar) beyond -the equator, from a source from which flow ten rivers, every five -of these flowing into a separate lake, then from each one of these -two lakes two rivers flow out; then all four of these rivers flow -into one great lake in the first zone, and from this great lake -flows out the Nile.”</p> - -<p>“The author of the book called ‘The Explorer’s Desire,’ says that -‘this lake is called the Lake of Likuri,<a name="FNanchor_15_15" id="FNanchor_15_15"></a><a href="#Footnote_15_15" class="fnanchor">[15]</a> from the name of a -tribe in the Soudan who live around the lake, and are very -barbarous, and cannibals. From this lake flows out the river Garna, -and the Abyssinian river. After leaving this lake, the Nile -traverses the country of Likuri, then the country of -Mennan—another Soudanese tribe—between Khartoum and Nubia.’”</p> - -<p>“On reaching Dongola, the metropolis of Nubia, it goes to the west, -and then reaches the second zone. Here the banks are inhabited by -the Nuba, and the river has many large cultivated islands with -cities and villages, and the boats of the Nuba reach to this point -coming downward, whilst the boats of Upper Egypt reach that far -going upwards. There are there rugged rocks which prevent the ships -from passing except at high Nile. It then flows northward, and -passes east of Assouan, in Upper Egypt. It then passes between two -mountain chains which border Egyptian territory, east and west, -until it reaches Fostat; thence it flows a day’s journey, and then -divides into two branches, the one emptying into the Mediterranean -at Damietta, and is called the eastern river, and the other, which -is the main Nile, passes on, and empties into the Mediterranean at -Rosetta, and is called the western branch.”</p> - -<p>“The length of the Nile from its source is 3,748 parasangs. It is -said that it flows through uninhabited country for four months, and -through the Soudanese territory two months, and through Moslem -territory one month. No other river goes on increasing while the -other rivers are at their lowest, except the Nile, for it rises in -the dry season, when the sun is in the constellation Cancer, Leo -and Ceres.”</p> - -<p>“It is said that this river has tributaries. Some say that its rise -is caused by snows melted in summer, and according to the quantity -of snowfall will be the greater or lesser rise. Others say that the -rise is caused by the different direction of the winds; that is to -say, that when the north wind blows strongly, it stirs up the -Mediterranean, and pushes the waters thereof backwards so that it -overflows the land; and when<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_305" id="page_305"></a>{305}</span> the south wind blows the -Mediterranean ceases to storm, and the waters that were dammed up -flow away again.”</p> - -<p>“Others say that the rise is caused by fountains upon its banks, -that have been seen by travellers who have reached to the highest -point.”</p> - -<p>“Others say that the Nile flows from snowy mountains, and they are -the mountains called Kaf. That it passes through the Green Sea, and -over gold and silver and emerald and ruby mines, flowing on <i>ad -infinitum</i> until it reaches the lake of the Zingh (Zanzibar), and -they say were it not to enter into the salt sea and be mixed up -with the waters thereof, it could not be drunk for great -sweetness.”</p> - -<p>“There is a difference of opinion as to the derivation of the word -‘Gumr.’ Some say it ought to be pronounced ‘Kamar,’ which means the -moon, but the traveller, Ti Tarshi, says that it was called by that -name because ‘the eye is dazzled by the great brightness.’ This -mountain, the Gumr, extends eastward and westward into uninhabited -territory on both sides. Indeed, this whole chain is uninhabited on -the southern slope. This chain has peaks rising up into the air, -and other peaks lower. Some have said that certain people have -reached these mountains, and ascended them and looked over to the -other side, where they saw a sea with troubled waters, dark as -night, this sea being traversed by a white stream, bright as day, -which enters the mountains from the north, and passes by the grave -of the Great Hermes, and Hermes is the prophet Idrisi (Enoch).”</p> - -<p>“It is said that Idrisi there built a dome. Some say that people -have ascended the mountain, and one of them began to laugh and clap -his hands,<a name="FNanchor_16_16" id="FNanchor_16_16"></a><a href="#Footnote_16_16" class="fnanchor">[16]</a> and threw himself down on the further side of the -mountain. The others were afraid of being seized with the same fit, -and so came back. It is said that those who saw it, saw bright -snows like white silver glistening with light.<a name="FNanchor_17_17" id="FNanchor_17_17"></a><a href="#Footnote_17_17" class="fnanchor">[17]</a> Whoever looked -at them became attracted, and stuck to them until they died, and -this science is called ‘Human Magnetism.’”</p> - -<p>“It is said that a certain king sent an expedition to discover the -Nile sources, and they reached copper mountains, and when the sun -rose, the rays reflected were so strong that they were burnt. -Others say that these people arrived at bright mountains like -crystal, and when the rays of the sun were reflected they burnt -them. Others say that Mount Gumr is a mountain on an island which -is called by this same name. Opposite to it is the land of -Serendib,<a name="FNanchor_18_18" id="FNanchor_18_18"></a><a href="#Footnote_18_18" class="fnanchor">[18]</a> four months’ journey in length and twenty days’ -journey in breadth, and that from this mountain comes the bird -called gimre.”</p> - -<p>“The author of the book called the ‘Mirror of Ages,’ says, ‘Hameed, -son of Biktiari, has stated that the fountain which is the first of -all the fountains is in Mount Gumr. From this fountain start ten -rivers, one of which is the Nile. They say that the Nile traverses -the first zone, then passes into the second zone, and that the -length of it from the source to the Mediterranean is 3,000 -parasangs. Some have thought that these fountains are the cause of -the rise, whereas others say—and this is the most probable—that -the cause is the abundance of rain and torrents in Abyssinia and -Nubia, and that the delay in the rise reaching Egypt is on account -of the great distance. All other rivers flow to the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_306" id="page_306"></a>{306}</span> south, whereas -it flows northward, and like it, Orontes in North Syria near -Hamath.’</p> - -<p>“Ti Farshi says that ‘some astronomers state that the Nile comes -from beyond the equator 11½°, and then flows on to Damietta and -Alexandria at 30° lat. N. They say from its source to its mouth are -142⅓° nearly, hence the length would be 8614⅓ miles with all -its meanderings. It meanders eastward and westward greatly.’</p> - -<p>“Achmed, son of Ti Farshi, in his book of the description of the -Nile, says, ‘historians relate that Adam bequeathed the Nile unto -Seth his son, and it remained in the possession of these children -of prophecy and of religion, and they came down to Egypt (or Cairo) -and it was then called Lul, so they came and dwelt upon the -mountains. After them came a son Kinaan, then his son Mahaleel, and -then his son Yaoud, and then his son Hamu and his son Hermes—that -is Idrisi the prophet.<a name="FNanchor_19_19" id="FNanchor_19_19"></a><a href="#Footnote_19_19" class="fnanchor">[19]</a> Idrisi began to reduce the land to law -and order. The Nile used to come flowing down upon them, and they -would escape from it to the high mountains and to elevated land -until the river fell, then they would plant whatever country was -left bare. Idrisi gathered the people of Egypt and went with them -to the first stream of the Nile,<a name="FNanchor_20_20" id="FNanchor_20_20"></a><a href="#Footnote_20_20" class="fnanchor">[20]</a> and there adjusted the -levelling of the land and of the water by lowering the high land -and raising the low land and other things according to the science -of astronomy and surveying. Idrisi was the first person who spoke -and wrote books upon these sciences. He then went to the land of -Abyssinia and Nubia, and gathered the people, and extended the -distance of the flow of the Nile, or reduced it according to the -swiftness or sluggishness of the stream. He even calculated the -volume of the water and the rate of flow. He is the first man who -regulated the flow of the Nile to Egypt. It is said that in the -days of Am Kaam, one of the Kings of Egypt, Idrisi was taken up to -Heaven, and he prophesied the coming of the flood, so he remained -the other side of the equator and there built a palace on the -slopes of Mount Gumr.<a name="FNanchor_21_21" id="FNanchor_21_21"></a><a href="#Footnote_21_21" class="fnanchor">[21]</a> He built it of copper, and made -eighty-five statues of copper, the waters of the Nile flowing out -through the mouths of these statues and then flowing into a great -lake and thence to Egypt.’</p> - -<p>“Idyar el Wadi says, ‘the length of the Nile is two months’ journey -in Moslem territory, and four months’ journey in uninhabited -country. That its source is from Mount Gumr beyond the equator, and -that it flows to the light coming out of the river of darkness, and -flows by the base of Mount Gumr.’</p> - -<p>“Mohammed, the Prophet of God, says:—</p> - -<p>“‘The Nile comes out of the Garden of Paradise, and if you were to -examine it when it comes out, you would find in it leaves of -Paradise.’</p> - -<p>“King Am Kaam, mentioned above, is Hermes I. The devils carried him -to this mountain, which is called Gumr, and there he saw how the -Nile flows out of the Black Sea and enters into the mountain of -Gumr. King Am Kaam built on the slopes of the mountain a palace -having eighty-five statues, to which he collected all the water -that flows from this mountain, conducting it in vaulted conduits -until the water reaches the statues and flows out of their mouths -in measured quantities and calculated cubic contents. It thence -flows in many rivers until it reaches<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_307" id="page_307"></a>{307}</span> the Great Central Lake.<a name="FNanchor_22_22" id="FNanchor_22_22"></a><a href="#Footnote_22_22" class="fnanchor">[22]</a> -Round this lake is the country of the Soudan and their great city -Garma. In this great lake is a mountain which traverses it, going -out of the lake and extending north-west.<a name="FNanchor_23_23" id="FNanchor_23_23"></a><a href="#Footnote_23_23" class="fnanchor">[23]</a> From this mountain -the Nile flows on a month’s journey and then it divides in the land -of Nubia, one division going to the far west, and in this branch is -the greater part of the country called the Soudan—whilst the other -is the branch which flows down to the land of Egypt, and beyond -Assouan it divides into four branches and thus flows into the sea -at Damietta and Alexandria. It is said that three of these branches -flow into the Mediterranean, whereas the fourth branch flows into -the Salt Lake and thence to Alexandria.</p> - -<p>“It is said that the rivers Sihon, Gihon, the Nile and the -Euphrates, all start from a green jasper dome from a mountain, and -that this mountain is near the Dark Sea.<a name="FNanchor_24_24" id="FNanchor_24_24"></a><a href="#Footnote_24_24" class="fnanchor">[24]</a> That the waters are -sweeter than honey, and more fragrant than musk, but that the -waters are changed in the course of the flow.</p> - -<p>“Sheikh Izz Edin, son of Ibn Gamar, says in his book on medicine -(and I have copied from the autograph manuscript), that the source -of the Nile is from Mount Gumr beyond the equator by 11° and 20′. -From this mountain start ten rivers from various sources, each five -of which flow into a great round lake, which is distant from the -extreme uninhabited country of the west by 57°, and from the -equator 7° and 31′ to the south, and these two lakes are equal, the -diameter of each being 5°. Out of each one of these two lakes flow -two rivers which empty into one great lake in the first zone. It is -distant from the uninhabited country of the west by 53° and 30′. It -is distant north of the equator 2°. Each one of these four rivers -empties itself separately into this great lake, and from it comes -out one single river, and this is the Nile. It passes through the -country to Nubia, and joins another river, whose source is from -another part near the equator, from a great round lake whose -diameter is 3°, and which is distant from the confines of inhabited -country on the west of 71°.</p> - -<p>“After it has passed the city of Cairo, it reaches a town called -Shatanuf, where it divides into two rivers, both of which flow into -the salt sea, one of these branches being called the Rosetta River, -and the other the Damietta River. This river reaches to Mansoura, -and there branches off from it the river called Ashmun, which -empties into a lake there, and the remainder flows into the salt -sea near Damietta, and here I give a plan of Mount Gumr.</p> - -<p>“The historian El Gahez, in his description of countries, says that -‘the source of the river of Sindh<a name="FNanchor_25_25" id="FNanchor_25_25"></a><a href="#Footnote_25_25" class="fnanchor">[25]</a> and the river Nile is from -one place,’ and that he came to this conclusion because ‘the two -rivers rise at the same time, and because the crocodile is found in -them both,’ and that ‘the kind of land-cultivation upon both is the -same.’ The historian Mashi, in his ‘History of Egypt,’ says that in -the country of Tegala is a Soudanese tribe of the same name in -whose land gold crops up, and that in their land the Nile splits -and becomes two rivers, the one branch being the Nile of Egypt, and -the other being green, which flows eastward and traverses the salt -sea to the landing of Sindh, and this is the river called -Meharaam.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_308" id="page_308"></a>{308}</span></p> - -<p>“The lake into which the water flows is called Biliha.<a name="FNanchor_26_26" id="FNanchor_26_26"></a><a href="#Footnote_26_26" class="fnanchor">[26]</a> Part of -the Nile flows to the Soudan country, then passes to the east of -Kussed, and then flows along one of the mountains of this country -and comes out at the equator. Then it passes out from a lake there, -and continues going westward to the country of Laknur, and thence -northwards until it flows into the great ocean. Then it flows to -the country of Abyssinia, and thence to the country of the Soudan, -and then to the east of Dongola, until it comes upon the cataracts -of Assouan, thence it flows into the Mediterranean.</p></div> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill-308_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/ill-308_sml.jpg" width="299" height="321" alt="MOUNTAINS OF THE MOON.—MASSOUDI, 11TH CENTURY." -title="MOUNTAINS OF THE MOON.—MASSOUDI, 11TH CENTURY." /></a><br /> -<span class="caption">MOUNTAINS OF THE MOON.—MASSOUDI, 11TH CENTURY.</span> -</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>“Makrisi says, ‘There is no difference of opinion. The Nile comes -from Mount Gumr.’ Makrisi also says that ‘Merka-Eel, the son of -Doobar-Eel, the son of Garabat, the son of Asfusan, the son of -Adam, on coming to Egypt with a number of the tribe of Arabat, -settled in Egypt and there built the city of Assus and other -cities, and they dug the Nile until they led the water down to -them, because, before that time, it did not flow regularly, but -used to spread out over the land unto the country of King Mekronsé -of Nuba. They regulated the course of the Nile and drew from it -various streams to their different cities which they had<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_309" id="page_309"></a>{309}</span> built. -They also led one stream to the city of Susan, then after the world -came out of the flood, and when time rolled on until the days of -Berdashir, the son of Bzar, the son of Ham, the son of Noah, the -flow of the Nile was again regulated a second time, after it had -been completely ruined by the flood.’ But the historian Ibn -Wasifsha says, ‘when Berdashir ruled—and he is the first who -became a priest and who practised magic and used to render himself -invisible—he sent the Prince Hermes to the great Lake,<a name="FNanchor_27_27" id="FNanchor_27_27"></a><a href="#Footnote_27_27" class="fnanchor">[27]</a> whence -the waters of the Nile flow. It is also said that he regulated the -stream, because formerly it used to overflow in some places and not -in others.’</p> - -<p>“As for the place where are the copper statues, it contains -fifty-eight figures, and Hermes collected to these figures the -water that flows out of the Nile, conducting the water to them by -vaulted conduits and aqueducts, so that the water would flow to the -figures and then come out from Mount Gumr, and thence flow from -under the wall, and then pass out through the mouths of these -figures. He regulated and measured the quantity of water flowing -out, so as to allow to flow out that amount which is required for -the land of Egypt, viz., that it should rise only to eighteen -cubits, each cubit having thirty-two digits. Were it not for this -the Nile would swamp all the countries that it passes through.</p> - -<p>“El Welid, the son of Romah the Amalekite, was enabled to go to -discover the sources of the Nile. He occupied three years in -preparing for his expedition, and then started with a large army, -destroying every tribe he came upon. He passed through the tribes -of the Soudan, and through the gold country, and there he saw -golden sticks sprouting out. He continued journeying until he -reached the great Lake,<a name="FNanchor_28_28" id="FNanchor_28_28"></a><a href="#Footnote_28_28" class="fnanchor">[28]</a> unto which the Nile flows coming from -the rivers which flow out from under Mount Gumr. He went on until -he reached the Temple of the Sun, and passed it until he reached -Mount Gumr or Kamar, which is a high mountain. He says that it is -called Mount Gumr because the moon does not shine except upon it -because it is outside of the Equator.<a name="FNanchor_29_29" id="FNanchor_29_29"></a><a href="#Footnote_29_29" class="fnanchor">[29]</a> He saw the Nile flowing -out from under Mount Gumr and coming down from the rivers of Mount -Kaf. After the river traverses the Equator it is joined by waters -from a stream coming from the region of Tekraan<a name="FNanchor_30_30" id="FNanchor_30_30"></a><a href="#Footnote_30_30" class="fnanchor">[30]</a> in India, and -this fountain starts from under Mount Gumr and flows in that -direction. It is said that the river Tekraan is like the Nile. It -rises and falls at the same time, and has in it crocodiles and -fishes resembling those in the Nile.</p> - -<p>“Some people have said that when they were there they saw neither -sun nor moon, but the only light was the light of the most merciful -God like the light of the sun.</p> - -<p>“Other explorers have said that the four rivers, Gihon, Sihon, the -Euphrates, and the Nile arise from one source—from a dome in the -gold country, which is beyond the dark sea, and that that country -is a part of the regions of Paradise, and that the dome is of -jasper. They also say that Hyad, one of the children of Ees, prayed -God to show him the extreme end of the Nile. God gave him power to -do this, and he traversed the dark river, walking upon it with his -feet over the water which did not stick to his feet, until he -entered that dome. This legend I have taken from El Makrisi’s -book.”</p></div> - -<p>The best description that I have been able to discover<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_310" id="page_310"></a>{310}</span> is by -Scheabeddin, an Arab geographer who wrote about 1400 <small>A.D.</small> He says:—</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>“The Isle of Mogreb (Africa) is in the midst of the seas which -water it on all sides. To the east it is bounded by the sea of -Kulzum (Red Sea); to the south and west by the ocean of which God -only knows the extent and limits; to the north it has for limits -the sea of Kharz, which is that by which the Franks came into the -Holy Land, by landing on the coast of Syria.</p> - -<p>“In the midst of the Isle of Mogreb are the deserts of the negroes, -which separate the country of the negroes from that of the Berbers. -In this isle is also the source of that great river which has not -its equal upon the earth. It comes from the mountain of the moon -which lies beyond the equator. Many sources come from this mountain -and unite in a great lake. From this lake comes the Nile, the -greatest and most beautiful of the rivers of all the earth. Many -rivers derived from this great river water Nubia, and the country -of the Djenawa. This river cuts horizontally the equator, traverses -Abyssinia, the country of Kuku, comes to Syene, cuts Egypt -throughout its whole length and throws itself into the sea between -Tunis and Damietta.”</p></div> - -<p>Abdul Hassan Ali, ibu el Hasseyn, ibu Ali el Massoudé, born at Baghdad, -and who came to Egypt 955 <small>A.D.</small>, where he closed his accounts with the -world, and brought his many travels to an end, writes:—</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>“I have seen in a geography a plan of the Nile flowing from the -Mountains of the Moon—Jebel Kumr.</p> - -<p>“The waters burst forth from twelve springs and flow into two lakes -like unto the ponds of Bussora. After leaving these lakes, the -waters re-unite, and flow down through a sandy and mountainous -country.</p> - -<p>“The course of the Nile is through that part of the Soudan near the -country of the Zenj (Zanzibar).”</p></div> - -<p>As I finished the transcription of these interesting old legends, I said -in my heart: “As it happened unto the ancient authors, so it will happen -unto me. Why was I then more wise? I considered all travail, and every -right work—that for this a man is envied of his neighbour. Therefore I -hated life, because the work that is done under the sun is grievous unto -me—for all is vanity and vexation of spirit.”</p> - -<p>The following was kindly translated by His Excellency Count de Landburg, -the Consul-General at Cairo for Sweden and Norway.</p> - -<div class="figright" style="width: 193px;"> -<a href="images/ill-311_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/ill-311_sml.jpg" width="193" height="600" alt="MAP OF NILE BASIN TO-DAY, FROM MEDITERRANEAN TO S. LAT 4." -title="MAP OF NILE BASIN TO-DAY, FROM MEDITERRANEAN TO S. LAT 4." /></a><br /> -<span class="caption">MAP OF NILE BASIN TO-DAY, FROM MEDITERRANEAN TO S. LAT -4.</span> -</div> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>“Chams ed-din Abu Abd Allah Mohammed ed Dimachgê (born 1256 <small>A.D.</small>, -Dec. 1336 (31)), in his geography, <i>Mukhbat ed-dahr fê Ajaîb -al-barr wal<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_311" id="page_311"></a>{311}</span>bahr</i>, edited by Professor Mehren, St. Petersburg, -1866, says (p. 88), in the chapter dealing with the four rivers of -Paradise:—</p> - -<p>The scholars say about this, that the Egyptian river called the -Nile is the river of Nubia. Its springs are in the Mountains of the -Moon, which divide the inhabited land to the south of the equator, -and that on the outside from the southern unknown countries, -whereof there is no information. The number of its springs are ten -rivers, running with haste in ten valleys between high trees and -compact sands. The distance between the longest off situated -occidental is about fifteen days, and they all together flow into -two large lakes, the distance between these being four days. The -extension of the oriental lake with all its islands and mountains -is rather four days to him that passes around it, and the extension -of the occidental is about five days to him that passes around it, -and in both these lakes, and in the land that lies between the -streams above mentioned, are the wild Sudan tribes, whose nature -resembles to that of the beasts. They do eat whomsoever they -assault, and he that catches anybody of another tribe, kills him -and eats him, as the game eaten. The situation of these lakes is -from 50-56° longitude from the springs of the river, and from 6-7° -latitude on the south of the equator. The Oriental lake is called -<i>Kúkû</i> and <i>Tamim es-Sudanese</i>, and the occidental <i>Damâdim</i> and -<i>Galjûr</i> and <i>Hajami</i>. Farther issue from each of these two lakes<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_312" id="page_312"></a>{312}</span> -four rivers, running through populated valleys, where the Sudanese -have their settlements. These rivers are flowing near the equator -until 7° latitude, and flow all together into one long and large -lake, which is called <i>Jawas</i> and <i>el Jamia</i> (Arab: the -‘Collector'), and which is called also <i>Kûri</i><a name="FNanchor_31_31" id="FNanchor_31_31"></a><a href="#Footnote_31_31" class="fnanchor">[31]</a> <i>of the -Sudanese</i>. Its circuit is about six days with the islands <i>Jawas</i> -and <i>Kûri</i>, inhabited by the Sudanese. From this lake issue three -big rivers. The one flows towards the west, and is called Rhâna; -another, turning to the south, flows to the east, and is called <i>ed -Damadim</i>, or the <i>Magid Shu of the Negroes</i>, and the third is the -river of Nubia, and is called <i>the Nile</i>. Its course is to the -north until it flows into the Mediterranean, as the river Damâdim -flows into the Southern Sea, and the Rhâna river into the Western -Ocean.”</p></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_313" id="page_313"></a>{313}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXX" id="CHAPTER_XXX"></a>CHAPTER XXX.<br /><br /> -RUWENZORI: THE CLOUD-KING.</h2> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hangg">Recent travellers who have failed to see this range—Its classical -history—The range of mountains viewed from Pisgah by us in -1887—The twin cones and snowy mountain viewed by us in 1888 and -January 1889—Description of the range—The Semliki valley—A fair -figurative description of Ruwenzori—The principal drainage of the -snowy range—The luxurious productive region known as Awamba forest -or the Semliki valley—Shelter from the winds—Curious novelties in -plants in Awamba forest—The plains between Mtsora and -Muhamba—Changes of climate and vegetation on nearing the hills -constituting the southern flank of Ruwenzori—The north-west and -west side of Ruwenzori—Emotions raised in us at the sight of -Ruwenzori—The reason why so much snow is retained on -Ruwenzori—The ascending fields of snow and great tracts of -<i>débris</i>—Brief views of the superb Rain-Creator or -Cloud-King—Impression made on all of us by the skyey crests and -snowy breasts of Ruwenzori.</p></div> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />June.<br />Ruwenzori.</div> - -<p>After the stories of the days of old, let us proceed to depict the -Ruwenzori range—which is the modern African term among the principal -tribes of the Lake regions for what was called Montes Lunae or Mons Lune -by the classical and European geographers, and by the Arab compilers of -travels as Jebel Kumr—Gumr, or Kammar—the Mountains of the Moon—as it -was seen by us. Several centuries have passed away since it was last -seen by any one capable of communicating an intelligent account of his -travels, and it may be many years will elapse before it is again seen by -any English-speaking explorer. The Nile route is closed for many a day -to come: the advance of the Manyuema, already spreading out far along -the West like an immense line of skirmishers, destroying and slaying as -they march eastward and northward, renders it very doubtful whether -subsistence would be found for an Expedition from the west; the ferocity -and number of the Wara Sura, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_314" id="page_314"></a>{314}</span> the treacherous character of the -Wanyoro, make it very certain that only a powerful force can ever be -able to pass through Toro; and the shifting events transpiring in -Uganda, which influence Uddu and Ankori, suggest a doubt, whether, in -defiance of Uganda, the south-east route would be practicable; and the -eastern route also presents serious difficulties. For these, as well as -for other reasons, such as the failure of so many modern travellers—Sir -Samuel and Lady Baker, Gessi Pasha, Mason Bey in 1877, our own -Expedition in 1887, and Emin Pasha in 1888—to see what ought to have -been seen, it is quite necessary that a more detailed description should -be given of this range.</p> - -<p>It is quite a mysterious fact that from the localities reached by Sir -Samuel Baker, Ruwenzori ought to have been as visible as St. Paul’s dome -from Westminster Bridge. And any person steaming round the Lake Albert, -as Gessi Pasha and Mason Bey did, would be within easy view of the snow -mountains—provided, of course, that they were not obscured by the dense -clouds and depths of mist under which for about 300 days of the year the -great mountain range veils its colossal crown.</p> - -<p>Then, again, its classical history: the fables that have been woven -about it; its relation to the dear old Nile, the time-honoured Nile—the -Nile of the Pharaohs, of Joseph, Moses, and the Prophets; its being the -source whence so many springs of the Nile issue—its being the creator -of the “Sea of Darkness,” Lake Albert Edward, from whose bosom the -Semliki—Nile to the West, and the infant Kafur to the East—emerge, to -feed the Albert on one hand and the Victoria Nile on the other; the very -mountain before whose shrine Alexander and Cæsar would have -worshipped—if the poets may be believed; its rare appearance out of the -night-black clouds; its sudden and mysterious apparition on a large -portion of that “illimitable lake” of a modern traveller; its quaint -title—the Mountains of the Moon, so often sought in vain; its massive -and rugged grandeur, and immense altitude: all these explain why -Ruwenzori<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_315" id="page_315"></a>{315}</span> demands more than a brief notice. Who that has gazed on the -Bernese Oberland for the first time will ever forget the impression? In -my twenty-two years of African travel both discovery and spectacle were -unique, and its total unexpectedness of appearance, as well as its own -interesting character and history, appeal to me to describe as clearly -as possible, and with some detail, what we saw.</p> - -<p>While proceeding towards Lake Albert, in December, 1887, we obtained a -view from Pisgah of a long range of mountains, wooded to the summits, -which we estimated to be about 7,000 to 8,000 feet in height. It lay -from S.E. to S. On returning from the Lake, the same month, two enormous -truncate cones suddenly appeared into view, bearing S. ½ . They -might, we believed, be between 10,000 and 12,000 feet high. They were -called the Twin Cones, and we thought them remarkable features. The -sight of them suggested that in their neighbourhood, or between them and -the Gordon Bennett Mountain, would be found an interesting country.</p> - -<p>When returning to the Nyanza for the second time in April, 1888, the -Twin Cones were invisible; but on the 25th of May, 1888, when scarcely -two hours’ march from the Lake beach, lo! a stupendous snowy mountain -appeared, bearing 215° magnetic—an almost square-browed central -mass—about thirty miles in length, and quite covered with snow; situate -between two great ridges of about 5,000 feet less elevation, which -extended to about thirty miles on either side of it. On that day it was -visible for hours. On surmounting the table-land, the next day or so, it -had disappeared. Not a trace of either Twin Cones or Snowy Mountain was -in view.</p> - -<p>On returning for the third time to the Nyanza, in January, 1889, and -during our long stay at Kavalli for two and a half months, it was -unseen, until suddenly casting our eyes, as usual, towards that point -where it ought to be visible, the entire length of the range burst out -of the cloudy darkness, and gratified over a<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_316" id="page_316"></a>{316}</span> thousand pairs of anxious -eyes that fixed their gaze upon the singular and magnificent scene.</p> - -<p>The upper part of the range, now divided distinctly into many -square-browed peaks, seemed poised aloft in a void of surprising -clearness, domed by a dark blue heaven as clear and spotless as crystal, -and a broad zone of milk-white mist enfolding it in the middle caused it -to resemble a spectral mountain isle sailing in mid-air—to realize a -dream of an Isle of the Blest. As the sun descended westerly the misty -zone drifted away, and the floating apparition became fixed to nether -regions of mountain slopes, and the sharply-cut outlines and broader -details might be easily traced through the binoculars. Though we were -nearly eighty miles off, we could even see ridgy fringes and tufted -clumps of trees, resting on broad ledges, or on mountain spires, or -coping some turret-like crag, which leaned over profound depths below. -We even agreed that the colour of the bare rock casques fronting the -glare of the sun, and which were aligned against the lucent blue beyond, -were of a purplish brown. We saw that the side presented to our view was -singularly steep and probably unscaleable, and that though the snowy -fields seemed to be mere patches, yet many feathery stretches descended -far below the summit of a bare ridge which intervened between the -central range and the Balegga Hills, twelve miles from us, over whose -summit, Ruwenzori, sixty-five miles further, loomed large and grand.</p> - -<p>It will then be understood that a transparent atmosphere is very rare in -this region, and that had our stay been as short as that of previous -travellers, Ruwenzori might have remained longer unknown.</p> - -<p>While we were advancing southward along the western flanks of -Mazamboni’s, and the Balegga Hills, during the month of May, 1889, the -great snowy range was frequently, almost daily, visible—not in its -entirety, but by fits and starts, a peak here, a mountain shoulder -there, with sometimes only a dim visage of the crowns, and at other -times the lower parts only in view. The snow gleamed white out of a dark -and cloudy frame, or<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_317" id="page_317"></a>{317}</span> the flanks, dark as night, loomed like -storm-clouds, boding rain and squalls. At rare periods the whole -appeared with a brilliant sharp-cut clearness that was very useful to us -to map our future route.</p> - -<p>Yet all this time we scarcely understood its character, and not until we -had crossed the Semliki river, and had traversed a great portion of the -dense and tall woods, which thrive in the hothouse atmosphere of the -Semliki Valley, had we any intelligent comprehension of it.</p> - -<p>The average European reader will perfectly understand the character of -the Semliki Valley and the flanking ranges, if I were to say that its -average breadth is about the distance from Dover to Calais, and that in -length it would cover the distance between Dover and Plymouth, or from -Dunkirk to St. Malo in France. For the English side we have the Balegga -hills and rolling plateau from 3,000 to 3,500 feet above the valley. On -the opposite side we have heights ranging from 3,000 to 15,500 feet -above it. Now, Ruwenzori occupies about ninety miles of the eastern line -of mountains, and projects like an enormous bastion of an unconquerable -fortress, commanding on the north-east the approaches by the Albert -Nyanza and Semliki Valley, and on its southern side the whole basin of -the Albert Edward Lake. To a passenger on board one of the Lake Albert -steamers proceeding south, this great bastion, on a clear day, would -seem to be a range running east and west; to a traveller from the south -it would appear as barring all passage north. To one looking at it from -the Balegga, or western plateau, it would appear as if the slowly rising -table-land of Unyoro was but the glacis of the mountain range. Its -western face appears to be so precipitous as to be unscaleable, and its -southern side to be a series of traverses and ridges descending one -below the other to the Albert Edward Lake. While its eastern face -presents a rugged and more broken aspect, lesser bastions project out of -the range, and is further defended by isolated outlying forts like -Gordon Bennett Mountain, 14,000 to 15,000 feet high, and the Mackinnon<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_318" id="page_318"></a>{318}</span> -Mountain of similar height. That would be a fair figurative description -of Ruwenzori.</p> - -<p>The principal drainage of the snowy range is to the west, down into the -Semliki River, and south to the Albert Edward Lake. The Katonga flowing -into Lake Victoria, and the Kafur into the Victoria Nile, are both fed -from the eastern face of Ruwenzori. The Mississi River, emptying into -Lake Albert direct, rises from the northern extremity of the mountains.</p> - -<p>During our journey southward, through the Semliki Valley and along the -shores of the Albert Edward, I counted sixty-two streams which descended -from Ruwenzori alone, the most important being the Rami, Rubutu, -Singiri, Ramilulu, Butahu, Rusirubi, Rwimi rivers, descending to the -Semliki River; and the Ruverahi, Nyamagasani, Unyamwambi, Rukoki, Nsongi -and Rusango rivers, pouring into the Albert Edward.</p> - -<p>By boiling point the upper lake was ascertained to be at an altitude of -3,307 feet, and Lake Albert at 2,350 feet above the sea; thus making a -difference of level of 957 feet for about 150 miles of river. Therefore, -besides a strong current which we observed, and rapids, the Semliki -River must have a considerable number of great cataracts in its course -from lake to lake.</p> - -<p>The Semliki Valley is noted for its hot-house character only for some -forty miles. That portion of it exposed to the sweep of the gales from -Lake Albert seems to have but a sour soil, for the yield of it is an -acrid grass, rejected by cattle, and thin forests of acacia; but between -this and the portion of exposed lake to the upper end is a soil so rich -and so productive that would rival the best soils in the world. The -natives have long ago discovered this fact, for they have gathered in -multitudes of small tribes to clear the thick forest and plant their -banana and plantain stalks. One can scarcely travel a mile in any -direction without coming across a luxuriant, heavy-fruited plantain -grove. In no part of Africa may be seen such abundance of food, not even -in Uganda. Ten such columns as I led might<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_320" id="page_320"></a>{320}</span><a name="page_321" id="page_321"></a><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_319" id="page_319"></a>{319}</span> have revelled in -abundance. The plantain fruit, when mature, measured from twelve to -eighteen inches in length, and thick as the fore-arm of an ordinary man.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill-318_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/ill-318_sml.jpg" width="486" height="342" alt="BIRD’S-EYE VIEW OF RUWENZORI, LAKE ALBERT EDWARD AND LAKE ALBERT." -title="BIRD’S-EYE VIEW OF RUWENZORI, LAKE ALBERT EDWARD AND LAKE ALBERT." /></a><br /> -<span class="caption">BIRD’S-EYE VIEW OF RUWENZORI, LAKE ALBERT EDWARD AND LAKE -ALBERT.</span> -</p> - -<p>It occupied us sixteen days to traverse this rich forest region, -generally distinguished by the name of Awamba, after the tribe, and -during that time we had ten separate rainfalls, several of them lasting -over nine hours, while it thundered daily. Besides this, when we issued -out of the forest, and clung to the grassy foot of the range, at a few -hundred feet of altitude above it, we observed that, as far as we could -see, the forest extended unbroken, except by the numerous banana -plantations. There were many lateral depressions, marking the courses of -the streams, but few elevations of any importance, but over the whole -slowly sailed the snow-white mist in broad, irregular streams; these, in -a few moments, became joined into a universal mass, which to us, looking -down upon it, resembled an inverted sky. All this was very annoying to -us as curious sightseers, anxious to know the strange world we were in; -but it furnished suggestions as to the reason why this part was so -especially prolific, and why Ruwenzori was so coy. No winds could cool -this portion of the valley, or waft the vapours away and clear the -atmosphere from an entire corner of the compass, owing to the extent and -great height of Ruwenzori. The great mountain intercepted every breeze -from east round to south, and prevented the everlasting exhalations of -the valley from being blown in that direction, but, on their reaching -the intense cold above, distilled them, and rediffused them in copious -showers of rain. From north to west the northern range of mountains -obstructed the free passage of the winds, and assisted to maintain that -equable heat of the valley that was necessary for the fostering of that -marvellous vegetation. In every camp of this region the smoke hung over -us like a pall, smarting the eyes and half suffocating us. In such a -Nature’s conservatory as the Semliki Valley, buried under its own -perpetual warm exhalations, vegetation, as a matter of course, finding -every favourable element<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_322" id="page_322"></a>{322}</span> therein necessary for its growth and -nourishment, grows in riotous profusion. Where the humus is deep we find -a tall and stately forest, with an impervious underwood of young trees, -bound together and sometimes altogether hidden by countless climbing -vines and robust plants; where the humus is thinner, as near the foot of -the range, dense crops of cane-grass, from ten to fifteen feet in -height, flourish luxuriant and impenetrable. Every tree-stem has its -green robe of soft moss, dripping with dew, and each tree-fern or -horizontal branch has its orchids, or broad elephant-eared plant. Every -rock is clothed with lichens, and if but the slightest hollow is found -in it, there will be seen a multitude of tropic plants crowding every -inch. In short, everywhere, except upon the perpendicular face of a -late-moved boulder, vegetation thrives of every variety of greenness, -form, and character.</p> - -<p>About a day before we finally issued out of the forest region we were -made still further aware what curious novelties in plants a natural -conservatory can produce. Between Mtarega and Ulegga we were astonished -at the huge girth of the wild banana plant, some of them being eighteen -inches in diameter two feet above the ground. The fronds were gathered -at the top of the stalk like an artificial bouquet, but presently spread -out, two feet wide and ten feet in length, forming graceful curves and a -most cooling shade, the leaves circling the flowers, which were like -great rosettes with drooping tassels. There seemed to be no limit to the -altitude at which these wild bananas grew, though we observed that their -number on the mountain slopes became more limited above 8,000 feet. The -tree-ferns, reaching as high as thirty feet from the ground, presented -themselves in a series of narrow groves along the moist hollows or near -banks of streamlets, while an untold variety of smaller ferns grew in -their neighbourhood, as though they were determined to prove their -relationship to the giants of the fern family. Then the calamus, -climbing from one tall tree to another with resolute grasp, next -attracted our attention. In the neighbourhood of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_323" id="page_323"></a>{323}</span> such fern-groves the -trees were veritable giants, the orchids in their forks were most -numerous, and the elephant-eared lichen studded the horizontal branches, -while every tree was draped with soft green moss, beaded with dew, and -seemed sodden through excess of moisture.</p> - -<p>Though the forest region ends as we enter Ulegga, the interval between -it and Mtsora is so devoted to cultivation by the natives that it is -only at the latter place that we become fully aware that we have entered -a new region. Looking towards the W.N.W. we see the commencement of a -brown grassy plain, the very duplicate of that extending round the -southern end of Lake Albert. In appearance it is as flat as though the -level bottom of a lake had just appeared in view and continues thus to -the Albert Edward Nyanza.</p> - -<p>Between Mtsora and Muhamha we travelled along the edge of the low plain -or ancient bed of the northern portion of the Southern Nyanza, but soon -after leaving the last village we began to breast the mountains in order -to avoid the circuitous route along the plain round the promontory of -Sangwé-Mirembé.</p> - -<p>As we journeyed towards the south-west over these hills we observed that -in the same manner as a change had come over the character of the -Semliki Valley the slopes of Ruwenzori had also undergone a similar -change. Instead of the thick forests which climbed up the lower slopes -and covered the ravines, and wild bananas and wonderful ferneries, and -general sappiness and luxuriance of the various species of vegetation, -pastoral grass waved on every slope and crest, while a healthful cool -breeze caused us to bless our fortune in having parted from the close, -heated and moist atmosphere of the Semliki.</p> - -<p>But in two days’ march we observed that there was another change. We -were in a much drier climate, and the superficial aspect of the country -was much as might be expected from a comparatively rainless district—it -was that of a worn-out and scorched country. The grass was void of -succulency and nutriment. The slopes of the rounded hills presented -grooves of a brick-dust<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_324" id="page_324"></a>{324}</span> colour; here and there grew a stunted tree with -wrinkled and distorted branches and ugly olive-green leaves, too surely -denoting that the best of the soil had been scoured away or consumed by -annual conflagrations, that vegetable life was derived under precarious -circumstances despite the copious showers of the rainy season. As these -hills, which constitute the southern flank of Ruwenzori, present -themselves, the plains below, between their base and Lake Albert Edward, -share their meagre, famished, treeless, and uninteresting character. -Though the vegetation differs, the gum-trees, such as the acacia, the -rigid black euphorbia, the milk weed, are indications of a lean soil and -salt-effusing earth, and in reality such is the character of the bed of -the receded Nyanza.</p> - -<p>In brief words, the north-west and west sides of Ruwenzori, blessed with -almost daily rains and with ever-fresh dews, enjoy perpetual spring and -are robed in eternal verdure; the south and south-west sides have their -well-defined seasons of rain and drought, and if seen during the dry -season, no greater contrast can be imagined than these opposing views of -nature’s youth and nature’s decay.</p> - -<p>There are many doubtless, like myself, who, while gazing upon any -ancient work, be it an Egyptian Pyramid or Sphynx, be it an Athenian -Parthenon, Palmyrene sun temple, Persepolitan palace, or even an old -English castle, will readily confess to feeling a peculiar emotion at -the sight. The venerableness of it, which time only can give, its -associations with men long ago gathered to their fathers, the builders -and inhabiters now quite forgotten, appeal to a certain sympathy in the -living. For its history there is a vague yearning; its age awakens -something like exultation that we little mortals can build such -time-defying structures. But more powerful and higher is that emotion -which is roused at the sight of a hoary old mountain like this of -Ruwenzori, which we know to be countless thousands of years old. When we -think how long it required the melted snow to carve out these<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_325" id="page_325"></a>{325}</span> ravines, -hundreds of fathoms deep, through the rocky cone of the range, or the -ages required to spread out the débris from its sides and bosom to cover -the Semliki Valley and the Nyanza plains, we are struck dumb at the -immeasurableness of the interval between that age when Ruwenzori rose -aloft into being; and in reply to the still small voice which seems to -ask—“Where wast thou when the foundations of the earth were laid? -Declare if thou hast understanding,” we become possessed with a -wholesome awe, and can but feel a cheerful faith that it was good for us -to have seen it.</p> - -<p>Another emotion is that inspired by the thought that in one of the -darkest corners of the earth, shrouded by perpetual mist, brooding under -the eternal storm-clouds, surrounded by darkness and mystery, there has -been hidden to this day a giant among mountains, the melting snow of -whose tops has been for some fifty centuries most vital to the peoples -of Egypt. Imagine to what a God the reverently-inclined primal nations -would have exalted this mountain, which from such a far-away region as -this contributed so copiously to their beneficent and sacred Nile. And -this thought of the beneficent Nile brings on another. In fancy we look -down along that crooked silver vein to where it disports and spreads out -to infuse new life to Egypt near the Pyramids, some 4000 miles away, -where we beheld populous swarms of men—Arabs, Copts, Fellahs, Negroes, -Turks, Greeks, Italians, Frenchmen, English, Germans, and -Americans—bustling, jostling, or lounging; and we feel a pardonable -pride in being able to inform them for the first time that much of the -sweet water they drink, and whose virtues they so often exalt, issues -from the deep and extensive snow-beds of Ruwenzori or Ruwenjura—“the -Cloud-King.”</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill-326_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/ill-326_sml.jpg" width="355" height="367" alt="VIEW OF RUWENZORI FROM BAKOKORO WESTERN CONES." -title="VIEW OF RUWENZORI FROM BAKOKORO WESTERN CONES." /></a><br /> -<span class="caption">VIEW OF RUWENZORI FROM BAKOKORO WESTERN CONES.</span> -</p> - -<p>Though from the nearest point to the central range we were distant eight -English miles in an air line, during the few brief clear views obtained -by us, especially that from Bakokoro, examination through a good -binocular informed us of the reason why so much snow was retained on -Ruwenzori. As will be seen from the various sketches<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_326" id="page_326"></a>{326}</span> of the profile, -the summit of the range is broken up into many sharp triangular casques -or narrow saddle-shaped ridges. Each casque, separately examined, seems -to be a miniature copy of the whole range, and dented by the elements, -time and weather, wind, rain, frost, and snow, and every side of -Ruwenzori appears to represent, though in an acuter degree, the -multitudinous irregularities of slopes and crests so characteristic of -its mighty neighbours which lie nearest to us, and are fully exposed to -the naked eye. Mostly all these triangular casque-like tops of the range -are so precipitous that, despite the everlasting snowfalls hardened by -the icy winds blowing over their exposed sides and summits, very little -snow is<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_327" id="page_327"></a>{327}</span> seen; but about 300 feet below, as may be estimated, ground -more adapted for the retention of the snow is found, which in some parts -is so extensive as to represent a vast field. Below this, however, -another deep precipice exposes its brown walls, and at the foot of it -spreads out another great field of snow joined here and there by sloping -ground, and this explains why the side of the range presented to view is -not uniformly covered with snow, and why the fields are broken up by the -brown patches. For quite 3,000 feet from the summit, as may be seen most -clearly from the view obtained from Karimi, there is illustrated a great -snowy continent enclosing numerous brown islands.</p> - -<p>Naturally where the crests are so steep and naked, and where the walls -of the precipices are so lofty, the rough weather to which they are -exposed contributes to their dismantling and ruinous crumbling. -Fragments of rock and tons of rocky dust and particles tumble from above -on the compressed snow-bed below, which imperceptibly moves through the -influence of thawing and undermining of the bed by the trickling water, -downwards towards the valley a league below. As it descends the thaw -increases, and the movement of the snow-bed is more rapid, until, -arriving in the neighbourhood of tropic heat, or buried in a great cloud -of tepid vapour from the valley beneath, there is a sudden dissolution -of the snow, and the rocky fragments, débris and dust, borne by the -snow, are hurled downward, crashing through the ravines and over the -slopes, until they are arrested in the valley by some obstruction, and -form a bank near the debouchure of a ravine, or are scattered over many -an acre below the smooth slope of a hill.</p> - -<p>Sometimes these ascending fields of snow, by the velocity of their -movements, grinding and dragging power, weight and compactness of their -bodies, cause extensive landslips, when tracts of wood and bush are -borne sheer down, with all the soil which nourished them, to the bed -rock, from which it will be evident that enormous masses of material, -consisting of boulders, rock fragments, pebbles, gravel, sand trees, -plants, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_328" id="page_328"></a>{328}</span> soil, are precipitated from the countless mountain slopes -and ravine sides into the valley of the Semliki.</p> - -<p>In front of the Rami-lulu River from the mountain there has been at one -time some such disastrous pouring of the ruins of a mountain side, so -sudden that the river was blocked, the tract there covered about six -square miles. Since that time the Rami-lulu has ploughed down to the -former solid rock-bed, and now flows between two very steep banks 200 -feet high, whence we can imagine the thickness of the débris.</p> - -<p>Between Ugarama and Bukoko we discovered a very fertile tract close to -the base of the mountain slope, prodigiously prolific in its melons, -pumpkins, sugar-cane and millet; the subsoil is principally gravel and -sand mixed with a rich dark loam, but the immense number of large -boulders imbedded and half buried in the earth is a striking feature, -and point to glacial influence.</p> - -<p>Between Bukoko and the mountains three miles away, and stretching along -their base southward for five or six miles, is another great tract -consisting of just such débris as the side of a mountain would naturally -consist in, but being principally of loose matter, it has assumed -through a long period of rainfalls a tolerably smooth gradated surface.</p> - -<p>If we consider these circumstances as occurring periodically since the -upheaval of the great range, and that mighty subsidence which created -the wide and deep gulf now embraced by the Albert Edward Nyanza, the -Semliki Valley, and Lake Albert, we need not greatly wonder that -Ruwenzori now is but the skeleton of what it was originally: “Dust thou -art, and unto dust shalt thou return.” Its head has been shorn of much -of its glory of amplitude; its shoulders have been worn and abraded, -through its side scores of streams have channeled deep, and the ribs of -it now stand, not bare and denuded, but marking indisputably what -wearing and battering it has experienced since it was born out of fire. -Slowly but surely the mountain is retiring to the place whence it came. -A few ages hence the Albert Edward Nyanza will be a great plain, and at -a later period Lake Albert<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_330" id="page_330"></a>{330}</span><a name="page_331" id="page_331"></a><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_329" id="page_329"></a>{329}</span> will share the same fate. Geographers of -that far-off epoch will then rub their eyes should they chance to -discover the outlines of the two Nyanzas and intervening valley as they -were described in 1889.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill-328_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/ill-328_sml.jpg" width="539" height="355" alt="RUWENZORI, FROM KARIMI." -title="RUWENZORI, FROM KARIMI." /></a><br /> -<span class="caption">RUWENZORI, FROM KARIMI.</span> -</p> - -<p>On most days, the early hours of morning ushered into view a long, -solemn, and stupendous mass, dark as night, the summits of which -appeared to approach very closely to the cloudless grey sky. But as -toward the east the fast-coming day changed the grey to gold, faint bars -of white clouds became visible above, and simultaneously along the base -of the range there rose stealthily a long line of fleecy mist. This was -presently drawn within gaping valleys and fissures in the slopes, -wherein it ascended with the upward draught in rolling masses along the -slants of their crooked windings, gathering consistency and density as -they ascended, yet changing their shapes every instant. Detached -portions floated to the right and left, to attract unto them the -straying and scattered mists issuing one by one from profound recesses -of the chasms. Then, united in a long swaying line, robing the legions -of hill shoulders, they issued into view from every flaw and gap in the -slope, and ranged in order, it appeared as though the intention was to -rally round the immense white range above. As the mist, now dense and -deep, began to feel the movement of the air in the higher altitude, its -motion became quicker, more sudden in assuming new forms, and out of the -upper ravines a host of restless, rolling white companies joined the -main line, the foremost surging boldly ahead and leading the way, -irresistibly, skyward.</p> - -<p>By the time the sun is but a fourth of an hour above the eastern -horizon, and is beginning to expose the beauties that lie hid in -snow-beds upon high mountain-tops, and is playfully lavishing rainbow -colours around their borders and valances, lo! insensibly, as it were, -the mist, now formidably thick and broad, with bold and numerous -vanguards, has approached the snow, and rivals it in dazzling whiteness; -and presently, receiving full in its front the clear and strong -sunshine, excels it<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_332" id="page_332"></a>{332}</span> in glory of colour and gilding, and soon after -rides over the snow and the purple pinnacles of the range in splendid -triumph. But as minute after minute adds more mass to the mist, and the -fermenting Semliki Valley, with exhaustless power, pours forth army -after army, which hasten to join the upper ranks extended motionless -along the slopes and over every proud alpine crest, the mist loses its -beauty and splendour of colouring, and becomes like a leaden-coloured -fog, until finally, so great has been the accumulation, it becomes black -and terrible as a tempest cloud, and thus rests during the entire day, -and frequently until far into the night. Sometimes, however, a half-hour -or so before sunset, the cloud is blown away, and peak after peak, crest -after crest, snowy fields and mountain shoulders emerge in full glory -into light, and again we have a short but glorious view before night -falls and covers Ruwenzori with a still darker mantle.</p> - -<p>These brief—too brief—views of the superb Rain-Creator or Cloud-King, -as the Wakonju fondly termed their mist-shrouded mountains, fill the -gazer with a feeling as though a glimpse of celestial splendour was -obtained. While it lasted, I have observed the rapt faces of whites and -blacks set fixed and uplifted in speechless wonder towards that upper -region of cold brightness and perfect peace, so high above mortal reach, -so holily tranquil and restful, of such immaculate and stainless purity, -that thought and desire of expression were altogether too deep for -utterance. What stranger contrast could there be than our own nether -world of torrid temperature, eternally green sappy plants, and -never-fading luxuriance and verdure, with its savagery and war-alarms, -and deep stains of blood-red sin, to that lofty mountain king, clad in -its pure white raiment of snow, surrounded by myriads of dark mountains, -low as bending worshippers before the throne of a monarch, on whose cold -white face were inscribed “Infinity and Everlasting!” These moments of -supreme feeling are memorable for the utter abstraction of the mind from -all that is sordid and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_333" id="page_333"></a>{333}</span> ignoble, and its utter absorption in the -presence of unreachable loftiness, indescribable majesty, and -constraining it not only to reverentially admire, but to adore in -silence, the image of the Eternal. Never can a man be so fit for Heaven -as during such moments, for however scornful and insolent he may have -been at other times, he now has become as a little child, filled with -wonder and reverence before what he has conceived to be sublime and -Divine. We had been strangers for many months to the indulgence of any -thought of this character. Our senses, between the hours of sleeping and -waking, had been occupied by the imperious and imminent necessities of -each hour, which required unrelaxing vigilance and forethought. It is -true we had been touched with the view from the mount called Pisgah of -that universal extent of forest, spreading out on all sides but one, to -many hundreds of miles; we had been elated into hysteria when, after -five months’ immurement in the depths of forest wilds, we once again -trod upon green grass, and enjoyed open and unlimited views of our -surroundings—luxuriant vales, varying hill-forms on all sides, rolling -plains over which the long spring grass seemed to race and leap in -gladness before the cooling gale; we had admired the broad sweep and the -silvered face of Lake Albert, and enjoyed a period of intense rejoicing -when we knew we had reached, after infinite trials, the bourne and limit -of our journeyings; but the desire and involuntary act of worship were -never provoked, nor the emotions stirred so deeply, as when we suddenly -looked up and beheld the skyey crests and snowy breasts of Ruwenzori -uplifted into an inaccessible altitude, so like what our conceptions -might be of a celestial castle, with dominating battlement, and leagues -upon leagues of unscaleable walls.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_334" id="page_334"></a>{334}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXXI" id="CHAPTER_XXXI"></a>CHAPTER XXXI.<br /><br /> -RUWENZORI AND LAKE ALBERT EDWARD.</h2> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hangg">Importance of maps in books of travels—The time spent over my -maps—The dry bed of a lake discovered near Karimi; its computed -size—Lessons acquired in this wonderful region—What we learn by -observation from the Semliki valley to the basin of the twin -lakes—Extensive plain between Rusessé and Katwé—The Zeribas of -euphorbia of Wasongora—The raid of the Waganda made eighteen years -ago—The grass and water on the wide expanses of flats—The last -view and southern face of Ruwenzori—The town of Katwé—The Albert -Edward Nyanza—Analysis of the brine obtained from the Salt Lake at -Katwé—Surroundings of the Salt Lake—The blood tints of its -waters—The larger Salt Lake of Katwé, sometimes called Lake of -Mkiyo—The great repute of Katwé salt—The Lakists of the Albert -Edward: Bevwa, on our behalf, makes friends with the -natives—Kakuri appears with some Wasongora chiefs—Exploration of -the large Katwé lake—Kaiyura’s settlement—Katwé Bay—A black -leopard—The native huts at Mukungu—We round an arm of the lake, -called Beatrice Gulf, and halt at Muhokya—Ambuscade by some of the -Wara-Sura near the Rukoki: we put them to flight—And capture a -Mhuma woman—Captain Nelson and men follow up the rearguard of -Rukara—Halt at Buruli: our Wakonju and Wasongora friends leave -us—Sickness amongst us through bad water—The Nsongi river -crossed—Capture of a Wara-Sura—Illness and death among the -Egyptians and blacks—Our last engagement with the Wara-Sura at -Kavandaré pass—Bulemo-Ruigi places his country at our -disposal—The Pasha’s muster-roll—Myself and others are smitten -down with fever at Katari Settlement—The south side of Lake Albert -Edward and rivers feeding the Lake—Our first and last view, also -colour of the Lake—What we might have seen if the day had been -clearer.</p></div> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />June 15.<br />Karimi.</div> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill-335_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/ill-335_sml.jpg" width="340" height="570" alt="PROFILE SKETCH OF RUWENZORI AND THE VALLEY OF THE SEMLIKI." -title="PROFILE SKETCH OF RUWENZORI AND THE VALLEY OF THE SEMLIKI." /></a><br /> -<span class="caption">PROFILE SKETCH OF RUWENZORI AND THE VALLEY OF THE -SEMLIKI.</span> -</p> - -<p>Critics are in the habit of omitting almost all mention of maps when -attached to books of travel. This is not quite fair. Mine have cost me -more labour than the note-taking, literary work, sketching, and -photographing combined. In the aggregate, the winding of the three -chronometers daily for nearly three years, the 300 sets of observations, -the calculation of all these observations, the mapping of the positions, -tracing of rivers, and shading of mountain ranges, the number of -compass<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_335" id="page_335"></a>{335}</span>bearings taken, the boiling of the thermometers, the records -of the varying of the aneroids, the computing of heights, and the notes -of temperature, all of which are necessary for a good map, have cost me -no less than 780 hours of honest work, which, say at six hours per day, -would make 130 working days. If there were no maps accompanying books of -this kind it would scarcely be possible to comprehend what was -described, and the narrative would become intolerably dry. I relegate -the dryness to the maps, by which I am relieved from tedious -description, at the same time that they minister to my desire of being -clear, and are beautiful, necessary, and interesting features of the -book; and I am firmly convinced that with a glance at the profile map of -Ruwenzori, the Semliki Valley, and Lakes Albert Edward and Albert, the -reader will know more of the grand physical features of this region than -he knew of the surroundings of Lake Michigan.</p> - -<p>As we descend from Karimi to the basin of the Albert Edward the first -thing we become conscious of is that we are treading the dry bed of a -lake. We do not require a gifted geologist to tell us that. Five feet of -rise to the lake would increase its extent five miles to the north and -five miles to the south. Fifty feet of rise would restore the lake to -its old time-honoured condition, when its waves rolled over the pebbled -beach under the shadows of the forest near Mtsora. We find that we -really needed to pay this visit to the shores of the Albert Edward to -thoroughly understand the physical changes which have, within the last -few hundred years, diminished the former spacious lake to its present -circumscribed limits. We should be liable to censure and severe -criticism if we attempted to fix a hard and fast date to the period when -Lake Albert extended to the forest of Awamba from the north, and Lake -Albert Edward extended from the south over the plain of Makara to the -southern edge of the forest. But it does not need a clever mathematician -to calculate the number of years which have elapsed since the Semliki -channeled its bed deep enough to drain the Makara plain. It is easily -computable. The nitrous,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_336" id="page_336"></a>{336}</span> saline, and acrid properties deposited over -the plain by the receding lake have not been thoroughly scoured out yet. -The grass is nutritious enough for the hardy cattle, the dark euphorbia, -the acacia, and thorn-bush find along the edges of the plain a little -thin humus of decayed grass; but nine-tenths of it is grassy plain, and -the tropic forest of Awamba cannot advance its borders. The case is the -same on the southern plain of the Albert. We find there a stretch of -plain twenty miles long devoted to poor grass, fatal to cattle; then we -find eight miles crossed with a thin forest of parachute acacias, with -here and there an euphorbia, and then we are in the old, old forest.</p> - -<p>At every leisure hour my mind reverted to the lessons which I was -acquiring in this wonderful region. Time was when Ruwenzori did not -exist. It was grassy upland, extending from Unyoro to the Balegga -plateau. Then came the upheaval at a remote period; Ruwenzori was raised -to the clouds, and a yawning abyss 250 miles long and thirty miles broad -lay S.W. and N.E. The tropic rains fell for ages; they filled the abyss -to overflowing with water, and in time it found an outlet through what -is known under the modern name of Equatoria. The outflowing water washed -the earth away along its course, down to the bed-rock, and for countless -ages, through every second of time, it has been scouring it away, atom -by atom, to form Lower Egypt and fill the Mediterranean, and in the -meantime the bottom of the abyss has been silting up with the sediment -and débris of Ruwenzori, with the remains of uncountable generations of -fish, with unnumbered centuries of dead vegetation, until now, with the -wearing away of the dykes of rock and reefs in the course of the White -Nile, two lakes have been formed; and other dykes of rock appeared -between the lakes, first as clusters of islets, then covered with grass; -finally, they caught the soil brought down by glaciers, moraines have -connected rock to rock, and have formed a valley marvellous in its -growth of tropic forest, and on each side of this forest there are -plains undergoing the slow process of crystalline transformation,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_337" id="page_337"></a>{337}</span> and -on their lake borders you see yet an intermediate stage in the daily -increasing mud, and animal and vegetable life add to the height of it, -and presently it will be firm dry ground. Now dip a punting-pole into -the shallows at the south end of Lake Albert, and the pole drops into -five feet of ooze. It is the sediment borne down from the slopes of -Ruwenzori by the tributaries into the Semliki, and thence by the Semliki -into the still waters of the lake. And if we sound the depths of Lake -Albert Edward, the pole drops through four or five feet of grey mud, to -which are attached thousands of mica flakes and comminuted scales and -pulverized bones of fish, which emit an overpowering stench. And atom by -atom the bed-rock between the forest of Awamba and the Lake Albert -Edward is being eroded and scoured away, until, by-and-by, the lake will -have become dry land, and through the centre of it will meander the -Semliki, having gathered the tributaries from Ruwenzori, the Ankori, and -Ruanda uplands, to itself; and in the course of time, when the nitrous -and acrid properties have been well scoured off the plain, and the humus -has thickened, the forest of Awamba will advance by degrees, and its -trees will exude oil and gum, and bear goodly fruit for the uses of man. -That is, in brief, what we learn by observation from the Semliki Valley -and the basin of the twin lakes, and what will be confirmed during our -journey over the tracts of lake-bed between Rusessé and Unyampaka.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />June 16.<br />Rusessé.</div> - -<p>Between Rusessé and Katwé is an extensive plain, dipping down in a -succession of low terraces to the Nyama-gazani River, and covered with -pasture grass. This terraced plain is remarkable for its growth of -euphorbia, which have been planted by generations of Wasongora to form -zeribas to protect their herds from beasts of prey and for defence -against the archers and spearmen of predatory tribes, and which thickly -dot the plains everywhere. Many of these euphorbia, that stood in -circles round the clustered huts, were venerable patriarchs, quite five -centuries old; hence we assume that the Wasongora have been estab<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_338" id="page_338"></a>{338}</span>lished -in this region for a long time, and that they formed a powerful nation -until the Waganda and Wanyoro, furnished with guns and rifles by Arabs, -came sweeping through the land on their periodic raids. Readers of -‘Through the Dark Continent’ will remember the story of the Katekiro’s -raid, that must have occurred about eighteen years ago, and of the -reported marvels said to have been met by the host, as they travelled -through a great plain where there were geysers spouting mud, hot -springs, intolerable thirst, immense loss of life, ruthless conflicts -between the native tribe and the Waganda, and bad water that killed -hundreds. We are now on the land which witnessed the raid of the -Waganda, and which then despoiled of its splendid herds of cattle. Since -that time Kabba Rega, with the aid of his musket-armed Wara-Sura, has -occupied the land, usurped the government of the country, and has -possessed himself of every cow. Captain Casati has informed me that he -once witnessed the return of the raiders from Wasongora, and saw the -many thousands of cattle which they had taken.</p> - -<p>The wide expanses of flats, white with efflorescing natron, teeming with -hot springs and muddy geysers, turned out to be pure exaggerations of an -imaginative boy, and nothing of all the horrors expected have we seen -except perhaps a dreary monotony of level and uniformity of surface -features, grass fallen into the sere through drought, and tufts of rigid -euphorbia, so characteristic of poor soil. The silence of the plain is -due to the wholesale expatriation of the tribe; thirst, because, as we -near the Lake borders, the tributaries lie far apart; sickness, from the -habit of people drinking the stagnant liquid found in pits.</p> - -<p>The grass of the plain grieved us sorely while travelling through it. -The stalks grew to the height of three feet, and its spikelets pierced -through the thickest clothing, and clung to every garment as we passed -by, and became very irritating and troublesome.</p> - -<p>The two best views obtained of Ruwenzori have been those obtained from -Karimi, up a long, narrow valley,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_339" id="page_339"></a>{339}</span> and from the plain near the -Nyama-gazani River. The last was the farewell view, the great mountain -having suddenly cast its cloudy garments aside to gratify us once more. -In rank above rank the mountainous ridges rose until they culminated in -Ruwenzori. From the south it looks like a range of about thirty miles in -length, with as many blunt-topped peaks, separated from each other by -deep hollows. Up to this time we had estimated the height as about -17,000 feet, but the revelation of the southern face, shrouded with -far-descending fields of deep and pure snow, exalted it 1,500 feet -higher in the general opinion. I seized this opportunity to photograph -the scene, that other eyes might view the most characteristic image of -Ruwenzori. Here and there may be seen, as in the pencil sketches, the -dark patches, showing the more precipitous portions of the slopes, which -are too steep for the accumulation of snow. The greater exhibition of -snow on the southern face is due to the lesser height of the intervening -ridges, which on the north side shut out from view the snowy range.</p> - -<p>A few miles beyond the Nyama-gazani River, which is forty feet wide and -a foot deep, clear as crystal and beautifully cool, we entered the town -of Katwé, the headquarters of Rukara, the commanding chief of the -Wara-Sura. He and his troops had left the town the night before, and -evidently in such haste that he was unable to transport the grain away.</p> - -<p>The town of Katwé must have contained a large population, probably -2,000. As the surrounding country was only adapted for the rearing of -cattle, the population was supported by the sale of the salt of the two -salt lakes near it. It was quite a congeries of zeribas of euphorbia, -connected one with another by mazy lanes of cane hedges and inclosures.</p> - -<p>It is situated on a narrow grassy ridge between the salt lake of Katwé -and a spacious bay of the Albert Edward Nyanza. In length the ridge is -about two miles, and in breadth half a mile from the shore of one lake -to the other.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_340" id="page_340"></a>{340}</span></p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />June 17.<br />Katwé.</div> - -<p>By boiling point the Albert Edward Nyanza is 3,307 feet, the crest of -the grassy ridge of Katwé is 3,461 feet, and the Salt Lake is 3,265 feet -above the sea. So that the summit of the ridge was 154 feet above the -Salt Lake and 112 feet higher than the Albert Edward Lake, and the -difference of level between the two lakes was 42 feet. The town is -situated 0° 8′ 15″ south of the Equator.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill-342_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/ill-342_sml.jpg" width="311" height="212" alt="THE LITTLE SALT LAKE AT KATWÉ." -title="THE LITTLE SALT LAKE AT KATWÉ." /></a><br /> -<span class="caption">THE LITTLE SALT LAKE AT KATWÉ.</span> -</p> - -<p>After seeing to the distribution of corn, I proceeded across the ridge, -and descending a stiff slope, almost cliffy in its upper part, after 154 -feet of a descent, came to the dark sandy shore of the Salt Lake of -Katwé, at a place where there were piles of salt-cakes lying about. The -temperature of the water was 78·4° Fahrenheit; a narrow thread of -sulphurous water indicated 84°. Its flavour was that of very strong -brine.<a name="FNanchor_32_32" id="FNanchor_32_32"></a><a href="#Footnote_32_32" class="fnanchor">[32]</a> Where the sand<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_341" id="page_341"></a>{341}</span> had been scooped cut into hollow beds, and -the water of the lake had been permitted to flow in, evaporation had -left a bed of crystal salt of rocky hardness, compacted and cemented -together like coarse quartz. The appearance of these beds at a distance -was like frozen pools. When not disturbed by the salt-gatherers, the -shore is ringed around with <i>Ukindu</i> palms, scrubby bush, reedy cane, -euphorbia, aloetic plants; and at Mkiyo, a small<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_342" id="page_342"></a>{342}</span> village inhabited by -salt-workers, there is a small grove of bananas, and a few fields of -Indian corn and Eleusine coracana. Thus, though the lake has a -singularly dead and lonely appearance, the narrow belt of verdure below -the cliffy walls which encompass it, is a relief. Immediately behind -this greenness of plants and bush, the precipitous slopes rise in a -series of horizontal beds of grey compacted deposit, whitened at various -places by thin incrustations of salt. There are also chalky-looking -patches here and there, one of which, on being examined, proved to be of -stalagmite. In one of these I found a<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_343" id="page_343"></a>{343}</span> large tusk of ivory, bones of -small animals, teeth, and shells of about the size of cockles. There -were several of these stalagmite beds around the lake.</p> - -<p>One remarkable peculiarity of the lake was the blood tints of its water, -or of some deposit in it. On looking into the water I saw that this -deposit floated, like congealed blood, on and below the surface. A man -at my request stepped in, and at random; the water was up to his knees, -and bending down soon brought up a solid cake of coarse-grained -crystallised salt, and underneath it was a blood-red tinge. This reddish -viscous stuff gives the lake, when looked at from the crest of Katwé -ridge, a purple appearance, as though a crimson dye had been mixed with -it.</p> - -<p>Hundreds of dead butterflies of various colours strewed the beach. There -was not a fish seen in its waters, though its border seems to be a -favourite haunt for herons, storks, pelican, egrets.</p> - -<p>The larger Salt Lake of Katwé, sometimes called Lake of Mkiyo, from the -village of that name, is about three miles long, and ranges from half to -three-quarters of a mile in width, and about three feet deep. The -smaller lake is in a round grassy basin about two miles east, and is a -round shallow pool half-a-mile across.</p> - -<p>Every one acquainted with the above facts will at once perceive that -these salt basins are portions of the original lake occupying sunken -hollows, which were left isolated by the recession of the waters of the -Albert Edward Lake, and that evaporation has reduced the former sweet -waters into this strong brine.</p> - -<p>Salt is a valuable article, eagerly sought after by the tribes round -about. The reputation of this deposit had reached Kavalli, where I first -heard of the greater Salt Lake as “Katto.” Flotillas of canoes come from -Makara, Ukonju, Unyampaka, Ankori and Ruanda, loaded with grain, to -barter for this article. Caravans arrive from eastern Ukonju, north -Usongora, Toro and Uhaiyana, to trade millet, bark cloth, beans, peas, -tullabun or eleusine, sesame, iron tools, weapons, &c., for it. The -islanders of Lake Albert Edward freight their little vessels with<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_344" id="page_344"></a>{344}</span> the -commodity, and with dried fish make voyages to the western and southern -shores, and find it profitable to carry on this exchange of produce. The -possession of Katwé town, which commands the lakes, is a cause of great -jealousy. The Wasongora owned it formerly, then Antari of Ankori. -Kakuri, the island chief, became heir to it, when finally Kabba Rega -heard of the rich deposits, and despatched Rukara to occupy the town.</p> - -<p>Our march into Ukonju had instantly caused the Wara-Sura to evacuate the -plain of Makara, and our approach to Katwé had caused a speedy flight of -Rukara and his army of musketeers and spearmen. Wakonju, to the number -of 150 men in our camp, and Wasongora were joining, and supplying us -with information gratuitously.</p> - -<p>In the afternoon of the first day’s arrival at Katwé we saw a flotilla -of canoes approaching from an island distant about three miles from the -shore. The crews were cautious enough to keep just within hail. We were -told that they had been sent by Kakuri to ascertain what strangers were -those who had frightened Rukara and his Wara-Sura from the land, for -they had done good service to Kakuri and “all the world” by their acts. -We replied in a suitable manner, but they professed to disbelieve us. -They finally said that if we “burned the town of Katwé they would accept -it as a proof that we were not Wara-Sura.” Accordingly, the villages -near the shore were fired, and the crews cheered the act loudly.</p> - -<p>The speaker said “I believe you to be of the Wanyavingi now. Sleep in -peace, and to-morrow Kakuri shall come with gifts to give you welcome.”</p> - -<p>Then Bevwa, chief of our Wakonju, stood on a canoe which was in the lake -and asked, “Ah, you children of Kakuri, the great chief of the sea, do -you remember Kwaru-Kwanzi, who lent Kakuri’s sons the spears to defend -the land from the Wara-Sura robbers. Lo! Kwara-Kwanzi, a true son of the -Wanyavingi, is here again. Rejoice, my friends, Rukara and his thieves -have fled, and all the land will rise as one man to follow in pursuit of -them.”</p> - -<p>The crews clapped hands, applauding, and half-a-dozen<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_345" id="page_345"></a>{345}</span> little drums were -beaten. Then the principal speaker of the islanders said, “Kakuri is a -man who has not had a tooth drawn yet, and he is not going to have one -drawn by any Mrasura alive. We have caught a dozen Wara Sura as they -were flying from Makara because of these strangers. Kakuri will see that -they die before the sun sets, and to-morrow he will see the chief of the -strangers face to face.”</p> - -<p>When they had paddled away, Bevwa was questioned as to these Wanyavingi. -What were they? Were they a tribe?</p> - -<p>Then Bevwa looked hard at me and said—</p> - -<p>“Why do you ask? Do you not know that we believe you to be of the -Wanyavingi? Who but the Wanyavingi and Wachwezi are of your colour?</p> - -<p>“What, are they white people like us?”</p> - -<p>“They have no clothes like you, nor do they wear anything on their feet -like you, but they are tall big men, with long noses and a pale colour, -who came, as I heard from our old men, from somewhere beyond Ruwenzori, -and you came from that direction; therefore must be of the Wanyavingi.”</p> - -<p>“But where do they live?”</p> - -<p>“Ruanda, and Ruanda is a great country, stretching round from east of -south to S.S.W. Their spears are innumerable, and their bows stand -higher than I. The king of Usongora, Nyika, was an Myavingi. There are -some men in these parts whom Kabba Rega cannot conquer, and those are in -Ruanda; even the King of Uganda will not venture there.”</p> - -<p>When Kakuri appeared next morning he brought us gifts, several fish, -goats, bananas and beans. Some Wasongora chiefs were with him, who -offered to accompany us, in the hope that we should fall in with some of -the bands, as we journeyed towards Toro and Uhaiyana. The island chief -was a physically fine man, but not differing in complexion from the dark -Wakonju; while the Wasongora were as like in features to the finest of -the Somali types and Wa-galla as though they were of the same race.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_346" id="page_346"></a>{346}</span></p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />June 18.<br />Katwé.</div> - -<p>Kakuri was requested to bring his canoe in the afternoon, and freight -them with salt to deposit on his island, as I would have to continue my -journey eastward in a day or two. Therefore all the afternoon about 100 -islanders were busy transporting salt to Kakuri Island, and the Wakonju -who followed us did a good business by assisting them. They walked into -the lake to a distance of 100 yards, the depth being up to their knees, -and stooping down, conveyed great cakes of the crystallized salt to the -shore, and across the ridge to the canoes in the Albert Edward Lake.</p> - -<p>Having found a cumbrous and heavy canoe, but somewhat large, on the -19th, it was manned with twelve men, and I set out to explore. At about -11 <small>A.M.</small> I had got to a distance of eight miles, and halted in front of -Kaiyura’s settlement, which consisted of eighty-one large huts, and was -rich in goats and sheep. Kaiyura is a Msongora, who so far remained -unconquered by the Wara-Sura. The craft that we were voyaging was too -clumsy and lopsided to venture far out into the lake, for with the -slightest breeze the water leaped in, but I was quite a mile from the -shore during most of the trip, and the lead was cast every few minutes, -but the deepest water I obtained was fifteen feet, while it sank over -three feet in a soft ooze. About 400 yards from the shore a long -sounding pole was used, and each time it dropped four feet into the -ooze, which emitted a most horrible stench, like that of a sewer, when -it came out.</p> - -<p>In the early part of the day the face of the Lake was as smooth as a -mirror, of a grey-green colour. The shore was remarkable for the great -number of butterflies, and many floated dead on the surface of the -water.</p> - -<p>There were two islands standing in the middle of Katwé Bay, and rising -about 100 feet above the water. One of them was distinguished for a -chalky-coloured cliff. They contained large settlements, and were -evidently well populated.</p> - -<p>On returning to Katwé I saw a great black leopard about 250 yards off, -just retreating from the Lake side, where he had been slaking his -thirst. He disappeared<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_347" id="page_347"></a>{347}</span> before we could paddle the unwieldy craft nearer -the shore.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />June 19.<br />Katwé.</div> - -<p>The only advantage I derived from my day’s exploration was the complete -survey of the bay, and obtaining a view beyond the headland of Kaiyura -into the chaotic and formless void. The haze was as thick as a fog, and -nothing could be distinguished further than three miles.</p> - -<p>On the 20th of June the Expedition marched out from Katwé, and escorted -by a large number of Wasongora chiefs and herdsmen, and our Wakonju -friends, filed to the eastward, along a path that skirted the greater -Salt Lake, and dipped down into the grassy round basin of the lesser -briny lake. Surmounting the ridge eastward of the basin, we descended -into a great plain, which evidently had but recently been covered with -the waters of the Albert Edward. Pools still existed, and narrowed -tongues of swamp, until, after a march of eighteen and a half miles, we -arrived at Mukungu, in Unyampaka, of Toro, Chief Kassessé, whose name -was made familiar to me in January 1876.</p> - -<p>Opposite the half-dozen zeribas of Mukungu was the long low island -called Irangara. The narrow arm of the Lake, about 150 yards across, -wound around it, and between the Islands of Katero, Kateribba, and four -or five others east of Irangara, with great floating masses of pistia -plants. Far across through the mist over the islands loomed the -highlands of Uhaiyana, and to the south we had the faintest image of -Kitagwenda, Chief Ruigi, and I knew then that we stood west of the arm -of the Lake we had called Beatrice Gulf.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />June 20.<br />Mukungu.</div> - -<p>The cattle had been driven across into the Island of Irangara, -everything of value had been deported away, and a monstrous herd had but -lately left Mukungu for Buruli, urged to fast travel by the retreating -Rukara and his army. The huts of the chiefs showed that these people of -Mukungu were advanced in the arts of ornamental architecture. A house -which the Pasha occupied was one of the most ornate I had seen. The hut -was twenty feet in height and about twenty-five feet in diameter, with a -doorway brilliant in colouring<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_348" id="page_348"></a>{348}</span> like a rude imitation of the stucco work -of primitive Egyptians. The doorway was ample—six feet high and six -feet wide, with a neat arched approach. Plastered partitions divided the -interiors into segments of circles, in which were sunk triangles and -diamond figures, lines of triangles surmounting lines of diamonds, the -whole pointed in red and black. One division before the wide doorway was -intended as a hall of audience—behind the gaily-decorated partition was -the family bed-chamber; to the right were segments of the circle devoted -to the children.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill-348_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/ill-348_sml.jpg" width="306" height="175" alt="SECTION OF A HOUSE NEAR LAKE ALBERT NYANZA." -title="SECTION OF A HOUSE NEAR LAKE ALBERT NYANZA." /></a><br /> -<span class="caption">SECTION OF A HOUSE NEAR LAKE ALBERT NYANZA.</span> -</p> - -<p>Every zeriba, besides being protected by an impenetrable hedge of -thorn-bush, had within a circular dyke of cow-dung, rising five feet -high. These great circular heaps of refuse and dung were frequently met -in Usongora, and will remain for a century to indicate the site of the -settlements, when village and generation after generation have -disappeared.</p> - -<p>The river-like arms of the Lake, now narrowing and broadening, swarmed -with egrets, ducks, geese, ibis, heron, storks, pelicans, snipes, -kingfishers, divers, and other water-birds.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />June 21.<br />Muhokya.</div> - -<p>The next day we followed the track of Rukara and his army and droves, -and made a westerly and then northerly course to round the prolonged arm -of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_349" id="page_349"></a>{349}</span> the Lake called Beatrice Gulf. A few years ago it must have spread -to a great distance. The plain was perfectly flat, and long reaching, -shallow, tongues of water projected far inland, which we had to cross. -As we advanced north, the hills of Toro appeared in view, and having -approached them we turned north-easterly, and after a march of eleven -miles, halted at Muhokya, a small village, equidistant from the Lake and -Mountain. The scouts in ranging around the outskirts, captured a -deserter from Rukara’s army, who informed us that the Wara Sura were at -Buruli.</p> - -<p>On the 22nd we continued our march, a plain, level as a billiard table, -lay spread to our right, about forty feet below a terrace, over which we -were travelling, and the south-eastern flank of Ruwenzori range lay to -our left, projected into capes, terminated mostly by conical hills, with -spacious land bays, reaching far inland, between. We crossed these -little streams and two considerable rivers, the Unyamwambi and Rukoki, -the first being plentifully strewn with large round cobblestones, smooth -and polished from the powerful rolling they had received by the -impetuous torrent.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />June 22.<br />Buruli.</div> - -<p>Arriving near the Rukoki, whose banks were hidden by a tall growth of -reedy cane, the vanguard suddenly received a volley from a large number -of musketeers, hidden in the thick brake. The Wasongora and Wakonju -were, unfortunately, in the van, leading the way, and these fell into a -heap in the river, their sharp spears as they frantically struggled in -their fright, more dangerous to us than the concealed enemy. However, -the loads were dropped, and in a few minutes we had two full companies -charging through the brake with admirable unconcern, just in time to see -the rear guard of the Wara-Sura breaking out of their coverts. Some -lively firing followed, but wars with natives require cavalry, for every -person seems to be on the perpetual run, either advancing or in retreat. -Some of the Wara-Sura fled south, some ran up the mountains to avoid the -pellets of our rifles. After seeing them all in full flight, the -companies returned, and we lifted our loads and resumed our<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_350" id="page_350"></a>{350}</span> march to -Buruli, whose extensive groves of banana plantations soon appeared in -view, and promised a rare supply of food.</p> - -<p>Just before reaching the ambuscade we had passed a slaughtered goat, -that had been laid across the path, around which had been placed a score -or so of yellow tomato-like fruit, the product of a very common bush. We -all knew that it implied we had better beware of vengeance, but the -natives, confident in us, had not hesitated to advance; nevertheless the -ambuscade was a great shock to them.</p> - -<p>In the afternoon the Wara-Sura were pursued by scouts, and ascertained -to be joining their scattered parties, and proceeding on an E.N.E. -course across the plain. The scouts, unable to contain themselves, sent -a few bullets after them, lending an impulsion to their flight. Their -baggage was thrown away; the sticks were seen being applied to their -prisoners, until several, frantic with fear and pain, threw their loads -away, and deserted to the arms of the scouts. Many articles were picked -up of great use that were discarded by the fugitives, and among the -prisoners was an Mhuma woman, of very pleasing appearance, who gave us -much information respecting Rukara and his vast herds of cattle.</p> - -<p>Early next morning Captain Nelson was despatched with one hundred -rifles, and fifty Wakonju and Wasongora spearmen to follow up the -rear-guard of Rukara, and if possible overtake the enemy. He followed -them for twelve miles, and perceiving no signs of them returned again to -Buruli, which we reached well after sunset, after a most brilliant -march.</p> - -<p>I was told of two hot springs being some miles off, one being near a -place called Iwanda, N. by E. from Buruli, the other, “hot enough to -cook bananas,” N. E. near Luajimba.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1888.<br />June 22.<br />Buruli.</div> - -<p>We halted two days at Buruli, as we had performed some splendid marching -on the plains. The paths were good, broad, clear of thorns, stones, -roots, red ants, and all obstructions. At the same time, when abundant -food<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_351" id="page_351"></a>{351}</span> offered, it was unwise to press the people. Before leaving this -prosperous settlement, our Wakonju and Wasongora friends begged -permission to retire. Each chief and elder received our gifts, and -departed to our regret. Bevwa and his Wakonju were now eighty-five miles -distant from their homes, and their good nature, and their willingness -and unobtrusiveness, had quite won our hearts.</p> - -<p>A march of twelve miles took us on the 25th across a very flat plain, -level as a bowling-green, intersected by five streams, and broad tongues -of swamp, until about half-way it heaved up in gentle undulations, -alternated by breadths of grassy plain. Thick forests of acacia crested -these land swells, and on the edges of the subsident flats grew three -species of euphorbia, stout fan palms, a few borassus, and <i>Ukindu</i> -palms. A little after noon we camped in a forest an hour’s march from -the Nsongi River.</p> - -<p>It had evidently been often used as camping ground by Wara-Sura bands -and Toro caravans bound for the Salt Lakes, and as water was far, the -tired cooks used the water from some pits that had been excavated by -thirsty native travellers. This water created terrible sickness amongst -us.</p> - -<p>The next day we crossed the Nsongi, a river fifty feet wide and thirty -inches deep, and immediately after we began to ascend to the lofty -uplands of Uhaiyana, which form, with Eastern Toro, Kitagwenda, and -Ankori, the eastern wall of the basin of the Lake Albert Edward. We -encamped near noon on a broad plainlike terrace at Kawandaré in -Uhaiyana, 3,990 feet above the sea, and about 680 feet above the Lake.</p> - -<p>The Wara-Sura were on the alert, and commenced from the hill-tops, but -as the advance rushed to attack they decamped, leaving one stout -prisoner in our hands, who was captured in the act of throwing a spear -by one of the scouts who had crept behind him.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />June 26.<br />Karamulli.</div> - -<p>On first reaching the terrace we had passed through Kakonya and its -prosperous fields of white millet, sesamum, beans, and sweet potatoes. -Karamulli, a most<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_352" id="page_352"></a>{352}</span> important settlement lies E. by N. an hour’s journey -from Kakonya.</p> - -<p>Soon after arriving in camp Yusuf Effendi, an Egyptian officer, died -from an indurated liver. This, I believe, was the sixth death among the -Egyptians. They had led such a fearful life of debauchery and licence in -their province that few of them had any stamina remaining, and they -broke down under what was only a moderate exercise to the Zanzibaris.</p> - -<p>The effects of the water drank from the pits the day before commenced to -be manifested on reaching the camp—that is, in twenty-four hours. Over -thirty cases of ague had been developed among the Zanzibaris, two of the -European officers were prostrated, and I myself felt approaching -symptoms. The Pasha’s followers were reeling with sickness, and it was -reported that several were missing besides Manyuema.</p> - -<p>On the 27th a halt was ordered. Lieutenant Stairs was sent back with his -company to endeavour to recover some of the lost people. Some passed him -on the road attempting to overtake the column. One woman belonging to -one of the Pasha’s followers was found speared through the body. He -arrived in time to save a Manyuema from sharing the same fate. These -utterly reckless people had acquired the art of evading the rear column -by throwing themselves into the grass and lying still until the officer -and his party had passed.</p> - -<p>Altogether the sick cases had increased to 200. Egyptians, blacks of -Zanzibar, Soudan, and Manyuema were moaning and sorrowing over their -sufferings. The Pasha, Dr. Parke, and Mr. Jephson had also succumbed to -severe attacks.</p> - -<p>On the 28th, led by one of the Wara-Sura prisoners, we made a short -march past the range of Kavandaré. The advance and main body of the -column filed through the pass unmolested, but the rear guard was -fiercely attacked, though the enemy turned to flight when the repeating -rifles began to respond in earnest, and this proved our last engagement -with Kabba Rega’s rovers called Wara-Sura.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_353" id="page_353"></a>{353}</span></p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />June 29.<br />Chamlirikwa.</div> - -<p>We reached Chamlirikwa the next day, having meantime descended to the -level terrace at the foot of the eastern walls of the Albert Edward -basin, and on July 1st arrived at Kasunga-Nyanza in Eastern Unyampaka, a -place known to us in January, 1876, when I sent a body of Waganda to -search for canoes for the purpose of crossing the Lake then discovered. -Bulemo-Ruigi, the king, having heard our praises sounded by the -islanders of Kakuri, who had meanwhile crossed the Lake before us, -despatched messengers to place his country at our disposal with free -privileges of eating whatever gardens, fields, or plantations offered, -only asking that we would be good enough not to cut down banana stalks, -to which moderate request we willingly consented.</p> - -<p>The Pasha on this day sent me his muster-roll for the beginning of the -month, which was as follows:—</p> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="1" cellspacing="0" summary="" - class="tbl"> -<tr><td align="right">44</td><td align="left">officers, heads of families, and clerks.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">90</td><td align="left">married women and concubines.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">107</td><td align="left">children.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">223</td><td align="left">guards, soldiers, orderlies, and servants.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">91</td><td align="left">followers.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right" class="btb">555</td></tr> -</table> - -<p>On the 3rd of July we entered Katari settlement, in Ankori, on the -borders of the Lake. At the camp of the 28th of June symptoms of fever -developed, and numbered me among those smitten down with the sickness, -which raged like a pest through all ranks, regardless of age, colour, or -sex, and I remained till the 2nd of July as prostrated with it as any -person. Having laid every one low, it then attacked Captain Nelson, who -now was the hardiest amongst us. It took its course of shivering, -nausea, and high fever, irrespective of medicine, and after three or -four days of grievous suffering, left us dazed and bewildered. But -though nearly every person had suffered, not one fatal case had -occurred.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />July 3.<br />Katari.</div> - -<p>From the camp of the 28th, above which was visible Mt. Edwin Arnold, we -skirted the base of the upland, and two days later entered the country -of Kitagwenda. By Unyampaka E. is intended the Lake<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_354" id="page_354"></a>{354}</span> shore of -Kitagwenda. The entire distance thence to Katari in Ankori is an almost -unbroken line of banana plantations skirting the shore of the Lake, and -fields of Indian corn, sugar-cane, eleusine, and holcus, which lie -behind them inland, which are the properties of the owners of the -half-dozen salt markets dotting the coast. The mountainous upland looms -parallel with the Lake with many a bold headland at the distance, -varying from three to six miles.</p> - -<p>We have thus travelled along the north, the north-west, and eastern -coasts of Lake Albert Edward. We have had abundant opportunities of -hearing about the south and western sides, but we have illustrated our -information on the carefully-prepared map accompanying these volumes. -The south side of the Lake, much of which we have viewed from commanding -heights such as Kiteté, is of the same character as the flat plains of -Usongora, and extends between twenty and thirty miles to the base of the -uplands of Mpororo and Usongora. Kakuri’s canoe-men have been frequent -voyagers to the various ports belonging to Ruanda and to the western -countries, and all around the Lake, and they inform me that the shores -are very flat, more extensive to the south than even to the north, and -more to the west than to the east. No rivers of any great importance -feed the Albert Edward Lake, though there are several which are from -twenty to fifty feet wide and two feet deep. The largest is said to be -the Mpanga and the Nsongi. This being so, the most important river from -the south cannot have a winding course of more than sixty miles, so that -the farthest reach of the Albertine sources of the Nile cannot extend -further than 1° 10′ south latitude.</p> - -<p>Our first view, as well as the last, of Lake Albert Edward, was utterly -unlike any view we ever had before of land or water of a new region. For -all other virgin scenes were seen through a more or less clear -atmosphere, and we saw the various effects of sunshine, and were -delighted with the charms which distance lends. On this, however, we -gazed through fluffy, slightly waving strata of vapours of unknown -depth,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_355" id="page_355"></a>{355}</span> and through this thick opaque veil the lake appeared like dusty -quicksilver, or a sheet of lustreless silver, bounded by vague shadowy -outlines of a tawny-faced land. It was most unsatisfying in every way. -We could neither define distance, form, or figure, estimate height of -land-crests above the water, or depth of lake; we could ascribe no just -limit to the extent of the expanse, nor venture to say whether it was an -inland ocean or a shallow pond. The haze, or rather cloud, hung over it -like a grey pall. We sighed for rain to clear the atmosphere, and the -rain fell; but, instead of thickened haze, there came a fog as dark as -that which distracts London on a November day.</p> - -<p>The natural colour of the lake is of a light sea-green colour, but at a -short distance from the shore it is converted by the unfriendly mist -into that of pallid grey, or sackcloth. There is neither sunshine nor -sparkle, but a dead opacity, struggling through a measureless depth of -mist. If we attempted to peer under or through it, to get a peep at the -mysterious water, we were struck with the suggestion of chaos at the -sight of the pallid surface, brooding under the trembling and seething -atmosphere. It realised perfectly the description that “in the beginning -the earth was without form and void, and darkness was upon the face of -the deep.” This idea was strengthened when we looked up to examine the -composition of this vaporous mist, and to ascertain whether we might -call it haze, mist, or fog. The eyes were fascinated with the clouds of -fantastic and formless phantasms, the eerie figures, flakes, films, -globules, and frayed or wormlike threads, swimming and floating and -drifting in such numberless multitudes that one fancied he could catch a -handful. In the delirium of fevers I have seen such shapes, like -wriggling animalculæ, shifting their forms with the rapidity of thought, -and swiftly evolving into strange amorphous figures before the dazed -senses. More generally, and speaking plainly, the atmosphere seemed -crowded with shadowy, elongated organisms, the most frequent bearing a -rough resemblance to squirming tadpoles. While look<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_356" id="page_356"></a>{356}</span>ing at the dim image -of an island about three miles from the shore, it was observed that the -image deepened, or got more befogged, as a thinner or thicker horizontal -stratum of these atmospheric shapes subsided downward or floated upward; -and following this with a fixed sight, I could see a vibration of it as -clearly as of a stream of sunbeams. From the crest of a grassy ridge and -the crown of a tall hill, and the sad grey beach, I tried to resolve -what was imaged but three miles away, and to ascertain whether it was -tawny land, or grey water, or ashen sky, but all in vain. I needed but -to hear the distant strains of a dirge to cause me to imagine that one -of Kakuri’s canoes out yonder on the windless lake was a funereal barge, -slowly gliding with its freight of dead explorers to the gloomy bourne -from whence never an explorer returned.</p> - -<p>And oh! what might have been seen had we but known one of those -marvellously clear days, with the deep purified azure and that dazzling -transparency of ether so common to New York! We might have set some -picture before the world from these never-known lands as never painter -painted. We might have been able to show the lake, with its tender blue -colour, here broadening nobly, there enfolding with its sparkling white -arms clusters of tropic isles, or projecting long silvery tongues of -blazing water into the spacious meadowy flats, curving everywhere in -rounded bays, or extending along flowing shore-lines, under the shadows -of impending plateau walls, and flotillas of canoes gliding over its -bright bosom to give it life, and broad green bands of marsh grasses, -palms, plantains, waving crops of sugar-cane, and umbrageous globes of -foliage, to give beauty to its borders. And from point to point round -about the compass we could have shown the irregularly circular line of -lofty uplands, their proud hill bosses rising high into the clear air, -and their mountainous promontories, with their domed crowns projected -far into the basin, or receding into deep folds half enclosing fair -valleys, and the silver threads of streams shooting in arrowy flights -down the cliffy<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_357" id="page_357"></a>{357}</span> steeps; broad bands of vivid green grass, and spaces of -deep green forest, alternating with frowning grey or white precipices, -and far northward the horizon bounded by the Alps of Ruwenzori, a league -in height above the lake, beautiful in their pure white garments of -snow, entrancingly picturesque in their congregation of peaks and -battalions of mountain satellites ranged gloriously against the -crystalline sky.</p> - -<p>But alas! alas! In vain we turned our yearning eyes and longing looks in -their direction. The Mountains of the Moon lay ever slumbering in their -cloudy tents, and the lake which gave birth to the Albertine Nile -remained ever brooding under the impenetrable and loveless mist.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_358" id="page_358"></a>{358}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXXII" id="CHAPTER_XXXII"></a>CHAPTER XXXII.<br /><br /> -THROUGH ANKORI TO THE ALEXANDRA NILE.</h2> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hangg">The routes to the sea, <i>viâ</i> Uganda, through Ankori, to Ruanda, and -thence to Tanganika—We decide on the Ankori route—We halt at -Kitété, and are welcomed in the name of King Antari—Entertained by -Masakuma and his women—A glad message from King Antari’s -mother—Two Waganda Christians, named Samuel and Zachariah, appear -in camp: Zachariah relates a narrative of astounding events which -had occurred in Uganda—Mwanga, King of Uganda; his behaviour—Our -people recovering from the fever epidemic—March up the valley -between Iwanda and Denny Range—We camp at Wamaganga—Its -inhabitants—The Rwizi Eiver crossed—Present from the king’s -mother—The feelings of the natives provoked by scandalous -practices of some of my men—An incident illustrating the different -views men take of things—Halt at the valley of Rusussu—Extract -from my diary—We continue our journey down Namianja Valley—The -peaceful natives turn on us, but are punished by Prince Uchunku’s -men—I go through the rite of blood-brotherhood with Prince -Uchunku—The Prince’s wonder at the Maxim gun—A second deputation -from the Waganda Christians: my long cross-examination of them: -extract from my journal—My answer to the Christians—We enter the -valley of Mavona—And come in sight of the Alexandra Valley—The -Alexandra Nile.</p></div> - -<p>On the evening of July 3rd the officers of the Expedition were summoned -to my friend to assist me in the decision as to which of the following -routes we should adopt for our seaward march. They were told thus:—</p> - -<p>“Gentlemen,—We are met to decide which route we shall choose to travel -to reach the sea. You deserve to have a voice in the decision. I will -give you impartially what may be said for or against each.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />July 3.<br />Ankori.</div> - -<p>“I. As to the route <i>viâ</i> Uganda along my old road to the mouth of the -Katonga. If, as in the old days, the king was friendly, I could take the -Expedition to Dumo, on the Victoria Lake, and I would find means to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_359" id="page_359"></a>{359}</span> -borrow his canoes to transport us to Kavirondo, whence, after preparing -live stock and grain, we could start for Kikuyu, and thence to Mombasa. -But Mwanga is not Mtesa; the murderer of Bishop Hannington can be no -friend of ours. If we proceeded to Uganda, we should have two -alternatives before us; to fight, or give up our arms. If we did either -we should only have undergone all this trouble to uselessly sacrifice -those whom we have in our charge.</p> - -<p>“II. As to the route southerly direct through Ankori. In 1876 Antari, -the king, paid tribute to the King of Uganda. He pays it still, no -doubt. Scores of Waganda must be at the capital. They are clever enough -to hope that they would win favour of Mwanga if they could get a few -hundred rifles and ammunition for him. What they may not be able to -effect by fraud they may attempt to do by force. Long before we reached -the Alexandra Nile, a force of Waganda and Wanyankori would have -arrested our flight, and a decisive struggle would take place. Antari -himself is well able to prevent us marching through his territory, for -by my estimate he must be able to muster 200,000 spears, in case of an -invasion. 10,000 spears would be quite enough to stop our little force. -What he will do no one knows. With fifty Zanzibaris I could find my way -through the wilderness. With 600 such people as the Pasha has with him -attached to us the wilderness is impossible. We must, therefore, be -prepared for the worst.</p> - -<p>“III. The two first routes lead up those plateau walls that you see -close by. The third and last skirts for a day’s march the base, and then -proceeds south to Ruanda, and through it to Uzigé and the Tanganika, -whence we could send messengers to Ujiji, or to Kavalla, to bring canoes -or boats to us. We could then proceed homeward from Ujiji <i>viâ</i> -Unyanyembé to Zanzibar, or to the south end of the Lake Tanganika, and -thence to Nyassa, and so down the Shire and Zambezi to Quilimane. But -long before we could reach the Tanganika every art that we know will -have been well tested. I<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_360" id="page_360"></a>{360}</span> know that it is almost a proverb with the Arab -that it is easier to get into Ruanda than to get out of it. An Arab -caravan went there about eighteen years ago, and never returned. -Mohammed, the brother of Tippu-Tib, has tried to penetrate Ruanda with -600 guns, and failed. I do not think there is force enough in Ruanda to -stop us, and if there were no other road, of course there would be no -debating as to what we should do, but go straight ahead. It is an -interesting country, and I should like to see its interesting king and -people. But it is a long journey.</p> - -<p>“Thus you have the shortest road <i>viâ</i> Lake Victoria and Kavirondo, but -with the Waganda, with whom we must reckon. You have the next shortest -road, <i>viâ</i> Ankori and Karagwé, but with Waganda and Ankori combined. -You have the longest route through Ruanda.”</p> - -<p>After an animated discussion it was concluded to refer it to me, upon -which the Ankori route was elected.</p> - -<p>Accordingly instructions were issued to prepare five days’ provisions, -that from the free provisions obtained from the Nyanza we might be well -into Ankori before beginning the distribution of beads and cloth to -about 1000 people, and also permission to assist themselves gratuitously -was withdrawn, and the criers were sent through the camp proclaiming in -the several languages that any person detected robbing plantations, or -convicted of looting villages, would be made a public example.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />July 4.<br />Kiteté.</div> - -<p>On the morning of the 4th we turned our backs to the Albert Edward -Nyanza, and followed a road leading east of south over the plain. In -about an hour the level flat assumed a rolling character freely -sprinkled over with bush clumps and a few trees. An hour’s experience of -this kind brought us to the base of the first line of hills, thence up -one ascent after another until noon, when we halted at Kitété, having -gained a thousand feet of altitude. We were received kindly, and -welcomed in the name of the King Antari. Messengers had<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_361" id="page_361"></a>{361}</span> arrived almost -simultaneously from Masakuma, the Governor of the Lake Province of -Ankori, that we should be received with all hospitality and honour, and -brought by degrees to him. Consequently, such is the power of emissaries -from authority, the villagers were ordered out of their houses with -cries of “Room for the guests of Antari! Room for the friends of -Masukuma! Ha, villains, don’t you hear? Out with you, bag and baggage!” -and so forth, the messengers every now and then taking sly glances at us -to note if we admired the style of the thing. We had not been long in -Ankori before we grasped the situation thoroughly. Ankori was the king’s -property. The people we should have to deal with were only the -governors, called Wakungu, and the king, his mother, brothers, sisters, -uncles, aunts, &c. Ankori was a copy of Uganda.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill-361_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/ill-361_sml.jpg" width="321" height="234" alt="A VILLAGE IN ANKORI." -title="A VILLAGE IN ANKORI." /></a><br /> -<span class="caption">A VILLAGE IN ANKORI.</span> -</p> - -<p>From Kitété a considerable portion of the south-east extremity of Lake -Albert Edward appeared in view. We were a thousand feet above it. The -sun shone strongly, and for once we obtained about a ten-mile view<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_362" id="page_362"></a>{362}</span> -through the mist. From 312½° to 324° magnetic, the flats below were -penetrated with long-reaching inlets of the lake, surrounding numbers of -little low islets. To 17½° magnetic rose Nsinda Mountain, 2500 feet -above the lake; and behind, at the distance of three miles, rose the -range of Kinya-magara; and on the eastern side of a deep valley -separating it from the uplands of Ankori rose the western face, -precipitous and gray, the frowning walls of the Denny range.</p> - -<div class="figleft" style="width: 208px;"> -<a href="images/ill-362a_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/ill-362a_sml.jpg" width="208" height="503" alt="EXPEDITION CLIMBING THE ROCK IN THE VALLEY OF ANKORI." -title="EXPEDITION CLIMBING THE ROCK IN THE VALLEY OF ANKORI." /></a><br /> -<span class="caption">EXPEDITION CLIMBING THE ROCK IN THE VALLEY OF ANKORI.</span> -</div> - -<p>Our course on the 5th was a steady ascent, E.N.E., to Kibwiga, at the -foot of the Denny range, Nsinda Mountain now bearing N.N.W. Opposite to -the village was Kinya-magara mountain. In the triangular<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_364" id="page_364"></a>{364}</span><a name="page_365" id="page_365"></a><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_363" id="page_363"></a>{363}</span> valley -between these mountains the first herds of the Wanyankori were -discovered.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill-362b_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/ill-362b_sml.jpg" width="500" height="334" alt="EXPEDITION WINDING UP THE GORGE OF KARYA-MUHORO." -title="EXPEDITION WINDING UP THE GORGE OF KARYA-MUHORO." /></a><br /> -<span class="caption">EXPEDITION WINDING UP THE GORGE OF KARYA-MUHORO.</span> -</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />July 7.<br />Kibwiga.</div> - -<p>We travelled in very close and compact order on the 7th up the pass -between the ranges of Kinya-magara and Denny, and having gained the -altitude of 6160 feet, the summit of Kinya-magara, and felt uncommonly -chilled by the cold winds, we descended 800 feet down the eastern slope -of the range to the chief village of Masakuma, the Governor of the Lake -Province of Ankori.</p> - -<p>We found Masakuma to be a genial old fellow. With all our doings with -the Wara-Sura he was well acquainted, and at a great and ceremonious -meeting in the afternoon he insisted that we should tell our story, that -his sub-chiefs and elders might hear how the Wanyoro were beaten at -Mboga, Utuku, Awamba, Ukonju, Usongora, and were clean swept from Toro. -“There,” said he, “that is the way the thieves of Unyoro should be -driven from all the lands which they have plundered. Ah, if we had only -known what brave work was being done we should have gone as far as Mruli -with you,” which sentiment was loudly applauded.</p> - -<p>The women of the chief then came out dressed with bead-worked caps and -bead tassels, and a thick roll of necklaces and broad breast-ornaments -of neat bead-work, and paid us the visit of ceremony. We had to undergo -many fine compliments for the good work we had accomplished, and they -begged us to accept their expressions of gratitude. “Ankori is your own -country in future. No subject of Antari will refuse the right hand of -fellowship, for you proved yourselves to be true Wanyavingi.”</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />July 8.<br />Kibwiga.</div> - -<p>Then the elders, grey-haired, feeble men, smitten with age, and in their -dotage advanced, and said, with the two hands spread out, palm upward, -“We greet you gladly. We see to-day, for the first time, what our -fathers never saw, the real Wachwezi, and the true Wanyavingi. Look on -them, oh people; they are those who made Kabba Rega run. These are they -of whom we heard that the Wara-Sura at the sight of them showed<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_366" id="page_366"></a>{366}</span> their -backs, and fled as though they had wings to their feet.”</p> - -<p>Little did we anticipate such a reception as this from Ankori when we -debated, on the evening of July 3rd, what road we should take. And -though the terms Wachwezi and Wanyavingi did not seem to be very -euphonious, they were clearly titles of honour, and were accompanied -with an admiring regard from the chief Masakuma to the half-nude slave -women, who carried water and performed chores all day.</p> - -<p>On the following day over 300 bunches of bananas and several pots of -banana wine were brought us as our rations during our stay. Deputations -from the neighbouring settlements also came, and the story of the chase -of the Wara-Sura, and the deliverance of the Salt Lakes were retold them -by Masakuma, and we were publicly thanked again for our services. -Indeed, considering how many tribes were affected by our interference, -we were not surprised at the general joy manifested. The story was the -“open sesame” to the riveted attention and affection of the Wanyankori.</p> - -<p>Near sunset the runners despatched to the capital reappeared with a -message from the king’s mother, which, though diplomatic, was well -understood by us. It ran as follows:—</p> - -<p>“Masakuma will furnish you with guides to show you the road to Karagwé. -Food will be given you at every camp so long as you are in Ankori. Goats -and cattle will be freely given to you. Travel in peace. The king’s -mother is ill now, but she hopes she will be well enough to receive you -when you again revisit the land. For from to-day the land is yours, and -all that is in it. Antari, the king, is absent on a war, and as the -king’s mother is ill and confined to her bed, there is none worthy to -receive you.”</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />July 10.<br />Katara.</div> - -<p>It appeared that at the capital our prowess and numbers had been -exaggerated, from the reports of Bevwa and Kakuri; our long column in -single file was also imposing. The terrible Maxim machine gun also -contributed a moral influence, and the fact that the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_367" id="page_367"></a>{367}</span> Wanyoro, or -Wara-Sura, had been chased out of so many countries, and that Ruigi, -King of Kitagwenda, had also spoken in our favour, coupled with the -nature of the service which had caused so many canoe cargoes of salt to -be disposed of at small cost; and, therefore, though the royal family -were disposed to be cordial and kind, they were not wholly without fear -that the party which had marched through southern Unyoro might in some -manner be a danger to Ankori.</p> - -<p>Poor king’s mother; had she known how secretly glad I was with the best -message that I received in all Africa, she need not have entertained any -anxiety respecting the manner in which her message would be received. -For though we were tolerably well supplied with native cloth and beads, -we were poor in gifts worthy of royalty of such pretensions as those of -Ankori.</p> - -<p>The country is said to be infested with lions and leopards, but we had -heard nothing of them during the night. A hyæna, however, broke into our -campfold on the first night at Masakuma’s, and dragged away a goat.</p> - -<p>Two days’ short marches of four and three-quarters and three hours -respectively, enabled us to reach Katara on the 11th of July. Our road -had led through a long winding valley, the Denny range on our right and -the Ivanda on our left. The streamlets we now crossed were the sources -of the Rusango, which, flowing north towards the Edwin Arnold Mt., meet -the Mpanga flowing south from the Gordon Bennett and Mackinnon Cones. -The Mpanga we crossed as we marched parallel with the eastern shore of -the Lake Albert Edward.</p> - -<p>Soon after arrival in camp two Waganda Christians named Samuel and -Zachariah, with an important following, appeared by the permission of -Antari. After greeting us, they said they wished to impart some -information if I could grant them a quiet hour. Expectant of the usual -praises of their king Mwanga, which every loyal Mganda, as I knew him, -was very prone to utter, we deferred the interview until evening. They -delivered a<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_368" id="page_368"></a>{368}</span> packet of gunpowder and percussion caps, the property of a -Manyuema, to me, which they had picked up on the road. This act was in -their favour, and I laid it down near my chair, but within a few minutes -it had been abstracted by a light-fingered Moslem.</p> - -<p>When evening came Zachariah took upon himself to relate a narrative of -astonishing events which had occurred in Uganda last year. King Mwanga, -the son of Mtesa, had proceeded from bad to worse, until the native -Mohammedans had united with the Christians, who are called “Amasia,” to -depose the cruel tyrant because of his ruthless executions. The -Christians were induced to join the Mohammedans—proselytes of the Arab -traders—unanimously, not only because of Mwanga’s butcheries of their -co-religionists, but because he had recently meditated a wholesale -massacre of them. He had ordered a large number of goats to be carried -on an island, and he had invited the Christians to embark in his canoes -for their capture. Had they accepted his invitation, his intention had -been to withdraw the vessels after the disembarkation, and to allow them -to subsist on the goats, and afterwards starve. But one of the pages -betrayed his purposes, and warned the Christian chiefs of the king’s -design. Consequently they declined to be present.</p> - -<p>The union of these two parties in the kingdom of Uganda was soon -followed by a successful attempt to depose him. Mwanga resisted for a -time with such as were faithful to him, but as his capitals, Rubaga and -Ulagalla, were taken, he was constrained to leave the country. He -departed in canoes to the south of Lake Victoria, and took refuge with -Said bin Saif <i>alias</i> Kipanda, a trader, and an old acquaintance of mine -in 1871, who was settled in Usukuma. Said, the Arab, however, -ill-treated the dethroned king, and he secretly fled again, and sought -the protection of the French missionaries at Bukumbi. Previous to this -it appears that both English and French missionaries had been expelled -from Uganda by Mwanga, and deprived of all their property except their -underclothing. The<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_369" id="page_369"></a>{369}</span> French settled themselves at Bukumbi, and the -English at Makolo’s, in Usambiro, at the extreme south end of Lake -Victoria.</p> - -<p>After Mwanga’s departure from Uganda, the victorious Moslem and -Christian proselytes elected Kiwewa for their king. Matters proceeded -smoothly for a time, until it was discovered that the Moslem party were -endeavouring to excite hostility against the Christians in the mind of -the new King. They were heard to insinuate that, as England was ruled by -a queen, that the Christians intended to elevate one of Mtesa’s -daughters on the throne occupied by Kiwewa. This king then leaned to the -Moslems, and abandoned the Christians, but they were pleased to express -their doubts of his attachment to them and their faith, and would not be -assured of it unless he formally underwent the ceremony of circumcision. -The necessity of this Kiwewa affected not to understand, and it was then -resolved by the Moslems to operate on him by force, and twelve Watongoli -(colonels) were chosen to perform the operation. Among these colonels -was my gossip, Sabadu, to whom I was indebted for the traditional -history of Uganda. Kiwewa was informed of their purpose, and filled his -house with armed men, who, as the colonels entered the house, were -seized and speared one by one. The alarm soon spread through the -capital, and an assault was instantly made on the palace and its court, -and in the strife Kiwewa was taken and slain.</p> - -<p>The rebels then elected Karema to be King of Uganda, who was a brother -of the slain Kiwewa and the deposed Mwanga, and he was the present -occupant of the throne.</p> - -<p>The Christians had repeatedly attacked Karema’s forces, and had -maintained their cause well, sometimes successfully; but at the fourth -battle they were sorely defeated, and the survivors had fled to Ankori -to seek refuge with Antari, who, it was thought, would not disdain the -assistance of such a force of fighting men in his various troubles with -Mpororo and Ruanda. There were now about 2,500 Christians at Ankori’s -capital, and about 2,000 scattered in Uddu.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_370" id="page_370"></a>{370}</span></p> - -<p>Having heard that Mwanga had become a Christian, and been baptised by -the French missionaries during his stay with them in Bukumbi, the -Christians tendered their allegiance to him, and he came to Uddu to see -them, in company with an English trader named Stokes; but, as the means -of retaking the throne were small, Mwanga took possession of an island -not far from the Murchison Bay, and there he remains with about 250 -guns, while Stokes, it is believed, had returned to the coast with ivory -to purchase rifles and ammunition at Zanzibar in the cause of Mwanga. Up -to this date the mainland of Uganda was under Karema, while the islands -recognised Mwanga, and the entire flotilla of Uganda, mustering several -hundred canoes, was at the disposition of the latter.</p> - -<p>They then informed me that their appearance in my camp was due to the -fact that while at the capital they had heard of the arrival of white -men, and they had been sent by their compatriots to solicit our -assistance to recover the throne of Uganda for Mwanga.</p> - -<p>Now, as this king had won an unenviable reputation for his excesses, -debaucheries, his executions of Christians in the most vile and -barbarous manner, and as he was guilty of causing Luba, of Usoga, to -murder Bishop Hannington and massacre over sixty of his poor Zanzibari -followers, though the story of Zachariah and Samuel was clear enough, -and no doubt true, there were strong reasons why I could not at once -place implicit credence in the conversion and penitence of Mwanga, or -even accept with perfect faith the revelations of the converts. I had -too intimate a knowledge of the fraudulent duplicity of Waganda, and -their remarkable gifts for dissimulation, to rush at this prospective -adventure; and even if I were inclined to accept the mission of -reinstating Mwanga, the unfulfilled duties of escorting the Pasha, and -his friend Casati, and the Egyptians, and their followers to the sea -prohibited all thoughts of it. But to African natives it is not so easy -to explain why their impulsive wishes cannot be gratified; and if<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_371" id="page_371"></a>{371}</span> -Kiganda nature remained anything similar to what I was acquainted with -in 1876, the Waganda were quite capable of intriguing with Antari to -interrupt my march. No readers of my chapters on the Waganda in ‘Through -the Dark Continent’ will doubt this statement. I therefore informed -Zachariah and Samuel that I should think of the matter, and give them my -final answer on reaching some place near the Alexandra Nile, where -supplies of food could be found sufficient for the party which I should -be obliged to leave behind in the event of my conforming to their wish, -and that it would be well for them to go back to the Waganda, ascertain -where Mwanga was at that time, and whether there was any news of Mr. -Stokes.</p> - -<p>At Katara, Mohammed Kher, an Egyptian officer, died. Abdul Wahid Effendi -had chosen to remain behind at Kitega, and Ibrahim Telbass and his -followers had, after starting from Kitega, vanished into the tall grass, -and, it may be presumed, had returned to remain with his sick -countryman.</p> - -<p>Our people were now recovered somewhat from that epidemic of fevers -which had prostrated so many of us. But the Pasha, Captain Casati, -Lieutenant Stairs, and Mr. Jephson were the principal sufferers during -these days. The night before we had slept at an altitude of 5,750 feet -above the sea. The long Denny Range was 700 feet higher, and on this -morning I observed that there was hoar frost on the ground, and during -this day’s march we had discovered blackberries on the road bushes, a -fruit I had not seen for two decades.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />July 11.<br />Wamaganga.</div> - -<p>On a third march up the valley we had followed between Iwanda and Denny -Range; we reached its extremity, and, crossing a narrow neck of land, -descended into the basin of the Rwizi. By degrees the misty atmosphere -of this region was clearing, and we could now see about five miles -distance, and the contour of the pastoral plateau of Ankori. It was not -by any means at its best. It was well into the droughty season. The dry -season had commenced two months<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_372" id="page_372"></a>{372}</span> previously. Hilly range, steep cone, -hummock, and plain were clothed with grass ripe for fire. The herds were -numerous, and all as fat as prize cattle. In the valley between the -Denny and Iwanda ranges, we had passed over 4,000 cattle of the -long-horned species. The basin of the Rwizi, which we were now in, and -which was the heart of Ankori, possessed scores of herds.</p> - -<p>We camped at Wamaganga on the 11th. Its inhabitants consist of Watusi -herdsmen and Wanyankori agriculturists. They represent the two classes -into which the people of Ankori are divided, and, indeed, all the tribes -of the pastoral regions, from the Ituri grass-land to Unyanyembe, and -from the western shores of the Victoria Lake to the Tanganika. The -Watusi women wore necklaces of copper bells, and to their ankles were -attached circlets of small iron bells. The language was that of Unyoro, -but there was a slight dialectic difference, and in their vocabulary -they had an expressive word for gratitude. “Kasingi” was frequently used -in this sense.</p> - -<p>One of our men, whom we greatly regretted, died at this place of illness -which ended in paralysis, and another, a Nubian, disappeared into the -tall grass and was lost.</p> - -<p>On the 12th we marched along the Rwizi, and after an hour and a half -crossed the stream, which had now spread into a swamp a mile wide, -overgrown with a flourishing jungle of papyrus. Our drove of cattle was -lessened by twenty-four head in crossing this swamp. An hour’s distance -from the terrible swamp we camped in the settlement of Kasari.</p> - -<p>The King’s mother sent us four head, and the King three head of cattle -and a splendid tusk of ivory, with a kindly message that he hoped he and -I would become allied by blood-brotherhood. Among the messengers -employed was a prince of the blood-royal of Usongora, a son of King -Nyika, as pure a specimen of Ethiopic descent as could be wished. The -messengers were charged to escort us with all honour, and to provide for -our hospitable entertainment on the way.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_373" id="page_373"></a>{373}</span></p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />July 12.<br />Kasari.</div> - -<p>Though it is very economical to be the guest of a powerful African king, -it has its disadvantages, for the subjects become sour and discontented -at the great tax on their resources. They contrive to vex us with -complaints, some of which are fabricated. Our men also, emboldened by -their privileges, assume far more than they deserve, or are entitled to -in strict justice. They seized the milk of the Wanyankori, and it is -considered to be a great offence for a person who is accustomed to eat -vegetables to put his lips to a milk vessel, and a person who cooks his -food is regarded as unfit to touch one, as it causes the death of cattle -and other ill effects. Seven of our men were charged with these awful -crimes, and the herdsmen, who are as litigious as the Aden Somalis, came -in a white heat to prefer their complaints. It cost me some -inconvenience to judge the people and soothe the wounded feelings -provoked by such scandalous practices.</p> - -<p>On the 14th we arrived at Nyamatoso, a large and prosperous settlement, -situated at the northern base of the Ruampara range, when orders were -issued to provide seven days’ rations of banana flour, because of the -abundance of this fruit in the vicinity.</p> - -<p>Mpororo is S.S.W. from this place. A few years ago Antari advanced and -invaded it, and after several sanguinary encounters the people and their -king became tributary to him. Ruanda begins from a line drawn to the -W.S.W., and is ruled over by King Kigeri. Not much information could be -gleaned respecting it, excepting that it was a large country, described -as equal from Nyamatoso to Kafurro. The people were reported to be -numerous and warlike, allowing no strangers to enter, or if they enter -are not allowed to depart.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />July 14.<br />Nyamatoso.</div> - -<p>One of our officers, feeble from many fever attacks, animadverted -fiercely against the Wanyankori on this day, and I repeat this incident -to illustrate the different views men take of things, and how small -events prejudice them against a race. He said, “Yesterday you know the -sun was scorchingly hot, and the heat, the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_374" id="page_374"></a>{374}</span> long march, and a slight -fever, made me feel as if I would give anything for a drink of cool -water. I came to that little village on the plain, and I asked a man, -who was insolently regarding us, and standing before the door of his -hut, to give me a little water to drink. Do you think he did so? He -pointed to the swamp, and with his spear to the black ooze, as if to -say, ‘There you are, help yourself to what you want!’ How can you call -these people a fine race? I don’t understand where you get your ideas -from. Is that fine, to refuse a man a drink of water? If that man had -what he deserved—ah, well, it is no use talking.”</p> - -<p>“My dear good fellow,” I answered, “have a little patience, and I will -show you another view that might be taken of that man. Have you lost -your pocket mirror? If you have, I will lend you mine, and you will see -a most ungracious face, garnished with bristles, something like a thin -copy of William de la Marck unshaved, half starved, and sick. Your eyes -appear smaller than ever, and look lustreless and dead. Your lanky body -is clothed in rags. When you were in London I was charmed with your -appearance. Adonis was nothing to you, but now, alas! excuse me, we have -all a most disgraceful appearance; but you, when you have a fever! Well, -look in a glass, and examine yourself! Now this native saw such a man, -with such an unlovely aspect, coming to him. How did you ask him? Did -you give him one of your charming smiles, that would make a buffalo -pause in his charge; I doubt it. You were tired, feverish, thirsty—you -said imperiously, ‘Give me a drink of water,'—and your manner -added—‘instantly or——.’ Why should he, a freeman, before his own -doorway obey such a command? He did not know you from Adam, and probably -your appearance suggested it would not be pleasant to cultivate your -acquaintance. Are you going to join the clique of travellers who can -never recognise the good that is in Africa and the Africans? To your -utter confusion, unfortunate man, let me tell you the story of an -occurrence that happened<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_375" id="page_375"></a>{375}</span> yesterday to one of your own personal friends. -The man of whom he tells the story was probably a brother or a cousin of -this same individual who has incurred your severe displeasure.</p> - -<p>“This officer had a bad attack of fever; he was seized with a vertigo, -he reeled, and sank in the grass by the wayside. The rear guard -commander saw him not, and passed him by, little thinking a sick comrade -lay fainting and almost unconscious near him. By-and-by a native warrior -came armed with spear, bow, and arrows. He saw there was something in -the grass. He went to the spot and saw one of our officers, helplessly -lying before him. If he were a brute he might have driven that sharp -spear of his into him, and we should have lost one of our number. But -this man, listen, did nothing of the kind; and though he had never heard -the story of the kindly Samaritan, went away, and in half-an-hour -returned with a half-gallon, gourd filled with fresh and cool milk, and -gave it to him to drink, and in a short time our friend rose up -strengthened, and marched to camp to tell me the kindly story. No Red -Cross official he; to the kindly sentiments of charity and mercy dinned -into the ears of the English race for sixteen centuries he was an utter -stranger. This is not like that English missionary who refused that -Dutch captain, of whom we have heard, the drink of water, and therefore -the race that can show one instance of such human kindness deserves to -be called a fine race. Do you doubt the story? Here is our friend; ask -him yourself.</p> - -<p>“Besides, think of the hospitality we receive from them. A thousand men -subsisting freely and gratuitously on the produce of their plantations, -and their fields; plantains, beans, millet, sweet potatoes for food, -tobacco to smoke, and a free road, without levy of tax or blackmail! How -do you know that that man had not been vexed by many things before you -came? Perhaps some of our men had gibed at him in scorn, or looted his -house, or threatened his family just before you came. Come, try again. -Go into any of these villages<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_376" id="page_376"></a>{376}</span> about here. Ask kindly and smilingly for -anything—milk, butter, or tobacco—and I will guarantee you will not be -refused.</p> - -<p>“And remember again, this country has only lately been conquered by -Antari. I am told that the king took forty women belonging to the chiefs -hereabouts, and distributed them as gifts to his bravest warriors, and -that all the principal chiefs were afterwards killed, and I do not -wonder that they resent the king laying such a tax upon them as the -provisioning of this multitude with us, and if you will observe the -conduct of the king’s messengers you will find that it is very -tyrannical and overbearing, and very little calculated to increase their -estimation of us.”</p> - -<p>The Expedition proceeded up a pass in the pastoral range of mountains -called Ruampara, the western end of which I think abuts the line of -hills that bound the Albert Edward basin, and divides the basin of the -Rwizi from the Alexandra Nile, and after crossing several airy mountain -tops, descended into the bowl-like valley of Rusussu, whence rises the -stream Namianja. Here we halted three days to refresh the people.</p> - -<p>Under date the 20th of July I find the following note in my diary:—</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>“This morning the fever that laid me low passed away. I have been a -little premature in saying that we were recovering from the ill -effects of that Usongora pit-water. No sooner is one of us well -than another is prostrated. The Pasha and I have been now three -times down with severe fever at the same time. Stairs’ fever left -him yesterday. Bonny’s temperature has been normal the last two -days. Casati fell ill on the 17th, was abed all day on the 18th, -and was up on the 19th. This is the way we exist now. There are -constant relapses into fever, with two or three days of insecure -health in the interval. Khamis Wadi Nassib has also died of -paralysis; and a Nubian has disappeared.</p> - -<p>“Four Egyptian officers have begged me, on account of their -increasing ulcers, to be permitted to stay in Ankori. As we are -already loaded with sick whites and other Egyptians, feeble old -women and children, I am obliged to yield to their entreaties, and -they and their families will therefore stay here. As I expect the -Heir-apparent of Ankori daily to go through the process of -blood-brotherhood, I will be able to provide for their comfort.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />July 20.<br />Rusussu.</div> - -<p>“It is a peculiar climate, this of Ankori. The cold gusty winds -sweeping from E. to S.E., and then N.E., create chest affections; -there is universal coughing, catarrhs, headaches; the great -variation between<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_377" id="page_377"></a>{377}</span> maximum and minimum temperature makes us all -unusually feverish. Yet I remember, in Jan., 1876, my followers and -myself were healthy and vigorous while crossing North Ankori, and -my private journals contain no notes like these I jot down daily. -Perhaps this excessive sickness is owing to the season, or to that -deadly pit-water, or it may be our cooks employ the black water of -the Rwizi, which drains a putrefying compost. It is the winter -season now, whereas January is spring.</p> - -<p>“Dangers have less charms for the ear than distance creates for the -eye. The former is too often exaggerated out of all proportion to -the reality by the unrestrained tongue, while the latter, though -often hiding the hideousness of ravines, and the inaccessibility of -mountains or abysmal depths, glozes the whole with grace, flowing -contours, and smooth lines. We have frequently found it to be so on -this Expedition, and I fear the Egyptians who have disappeared from -the column, un-recommended by us, will find the dangers far more -real than they imagined would be the case as we repeated our -frequent warnings.”</p></div> - -<p>On the 21st we resumed our march, and proceeded to follow a road that -ran down the valley parallel with the Namianja. Thistles of unusual -size, some sunflowers, and blackberry bushes lined the path. The stream -has three sources, a tiny thread of sweet water rising from a ferny -recess, a pool of nitrous and sulphurous water, and a little pond of -strong alkaline water. At the end of three hours’ march the stream was 5 -feet wide, but its flavour was not much improved. Banana plantations -alternated with cattle-folds along the path.</p> - -<p>The next day we started at dawn to continue our journey down the -Namianja Valley, which is narrow and winding, with spacious plats in the -crooked lines of mountains. In an hour we turned sharply from E. by N. -to S.E. by S. down another valley. Herd after herd of the finest and -fattest cattle met us as they were driven from their zeribas to graze on -the rich hay-like grass, which was green in moist places. After a short -time the course deflected more eastward, until we gained the entrance of -a defile, which we entered, to ascend in half an hour the bare breast of -a rocky hill. Surmounting the naked hill, we crossed its narrow summit, -and descended at once its southerly side, into a basin prosperous with -banana plantations, pasture, and herds, and took refuge from the glaring -and scorching sun in Viaruha village.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />July 21.<br />Namianja.</div> - -<p>The rear-guard were disconcerted on leaving Namianja<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_378" id="page_378"></a>{378}</span> Valley by the -hitherto peaceful natives turning out suddenly <i>en masse</i> with -war-cries, and with very menacing gestures. They advanced to the attack -twice, without, however, doing more than levelling their spears and -threatening to launch them. On the third advance, conceiving that the -guard must be terribly frightened by their numbers, they shot some eight -or ten arrows, at which the Commander ordered a few harmless shots to be -fired, and this sufficed to send them scampering with loud cries up the -hills.</p> - -<p>Close behind the rear-guard, but unknown to them, were advancing -Uchunku, the Prince Royal of Ankori, and his escort of musketeers and -spearmen, and a second deputation from the Waganda Christians. The -Prince, in obedience to his father, was on his way to our camp to -exchange blood and form a treaty with me. The Prince, hearing the shots, -demanded to know the reason, and some of the Wahuma herdsmen, who had -been spectators of the hostile play, explained, upon which the -musketeers were sent in chase, killed two of the Wanyankori, and -disarmed twenty of them.</p> - -<p>At 2 <small>P.M.</small> Prince Uchunku and escort reached Viaruha, and instantly -requested an interview. He was a sweet-faced, gentle looking boy of -about thirteen or fourteen years old, a true Mhuma with the Abyssinian -features. He was accompanied by his governor, or guardian, an officer in -command of the spearmen and carbine-armed guards of the Prince. He gave -us two large steers; one had such massive and long horns, that made it -but a poor traveller, and had to be slaughtered for beef. The usual -friendly speeches were exchanged, and after he had fairly satisfied his -curiosity with viewing the strange sights in camp, it was arranged that -the ceremony should take place on the next day.</p> - -<p>On the 23rd the ceremony passed off with considerable éclat. The -Zanzibaris, Soudanese, and Manyuemas were all under arms ready to salute -the Prince with a few discharges from their rifles, at the face of the -hill, about<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_379" id="page_379"></a>{379}</span> 400 yards away. The Maxim was also in order to assist with -its automatic action.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />July 23.<br />Viaruha.</div> - -<p>The rite of blood brotherhood began with the laying of a Persian carpet, -upon which the Prince and I took our seats cross-legged, with left hands -clasped across the knees. The Professors of the Art advanced, and made -an incision in each left arm, and then each Professor took a small -portion of butter, and two leaflets, which served as platters, mixed it -with our blood, and then exchanging the leaves, our foreheads were -rubbed with the mixture. The ceremony was thus relieved of the -repulsiveness which accompanies it when performed among the Congo -tribes. Then the Prince, who was now my young brother, took me by the -hand into my hut to smile and to look pleased. His young heart was made -glad with some choice Cairene cloths, a necklace contributed by the -Egyptian women and the Pasha, of fine large beads, which captured his -affection by storm. His governor received a cow, and the guardsmen -received an ox to feast themselves with beef, and the Prince had, in his -turn, to give a fine goat to our Professor, for these offices, even in -Congo land, are in high honour, and must receive handsome fees.</p> - -<p>The rifles then fired five rounds each, to the boy’s great admiration, -but the showers of the Maxim and the cloud of dust raised by the bullets -on the face of the opposite hill simply sent him into ecstasies, and to -prevent him crying his soul out in rapture, he laid his hand firmly over -his mouth. Opinions differed as to the reason of his covering his mouth, -and even in jest it is not good to be untruthful, but some said that he -feared his fine teeth would be snapped in pieces by excessive chattering -in terror, but I firmly maintain that it was from childlike wonder and -pleasure.</p> - -<p>At any rate, I was publicly recognised as a son of Ankori, to be -hereafter permitted to range at will throughout the dominions of Antari, -with right of residence, and free access to every plantation in the -kingdom. Furthermore, the Prince swore in his father’s name, for so he -was commanded, that all white men entering<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_380" id="page_380"></a>{380}</span> Ankori must have a -recommendation from me, and then such kindness would be shown to them as -would be shown to me personally. Only the cattle, goats, and weapons -were exempted as private property, over which the king even has no -right, except when they belong to criminals.</p> - -<p>With the Prince of Ankori was a second deputation from the Waganda -Christians. The result of my long cross-examination of them I embodied -in the following entry in my journal:—</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>“I feared I first heard of the expulsion of the missionaries from -Uganda that they had been inconsiderate, and impulsive, and acted -regardless of consequences, that though their conduct was strictly -upright and according to their code, their narrowness and want of -sympathy had caused them to commit errors of judgment; but the -Christian converts gave them an excellent character, and repeated -much of the good advice Mr. Mackay had bestowed on them, which were -undoubted proofs that though the yoke of Mwanga was exceedingly -heavy to them, the missionaries had in this abstained from meddling -in the politics of the country. Something like £50,000 must have -been expended on this mission since it was established. Were the -story of it truthfully written it would contain in itself all that -is needed to guide those interested in it. The tragic deaths of -Smith, O’Neil, Penrose, and Bishop Hannington, the mortal diseases -which cut off Dr. Smith, and, as Zachariah tells me, two more, one -of whom is called Bishop, the almost fruitless residence in Uganda -of Messrs. Wilson, Pearson, and Felkin, the splendid successes of -Mackay, and the industry and devotion of Ashe and Gordon. The -history of these gentlemen’s labours, successes, and failures could -not be penned without immediate comprehensiveness of the causes -which led some to triumph, where wisdom was exhibited, and rashness -failed.</p> - -<p>“No man having put his hand to the plough and looking back is fit -for the kingdom of heaven. No man having accepted trust can in -honour do otherwise than continue in that trust until victory is -assured. I suppose, as the note of retreat had been sounded before -I left Africa, the council of the Christian Mission Society will -order Mr. Mackay to withdraw now. I hope not. The expulsion of the -missionaries and the dispersion of their Christian flocks would -strike any one else, looking at it from a layman’s point of view, -as the dawn of the day of victory. The shouts of triumph uttered by -the Mohammedans now in power should not dishearten, but should -inspire them to nobler and wiser efforts, to persevere patiently -and unremittingly. No great cause, no great work, or great -enterprise was ever successful without perfect faith that it was -worthy of unwearying effort and strenuous striving.</p> - -<p>“Out of the 4,000 or 5,000 converts reported by Zachariah and -Samuel now in Ankori and Uddu, let us assume as 2,000 being due to -the labours of Mackay and his worthy associates. At £50,000, each -convert would appear to have cost £25. I am not one of those who -would always appeal to the state for help in such a crisis as this, -but to those able to spare out of great wealth, and who yet answer -that they must attend to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_381" id="page_381"></a>{381}</span> those at home first, I would give the -reply of the wise Gentile woman—‘True, Lord, but the dogs pick up -crumbs that fall from their master’s table.’</p> - -<p>“The success of the mission to Nyanza is proved by the sacrifices -of the converts, by their determined resistance to the tyrant, by -their successful deposition of him. I have read somewhere that the -recognition of belligerents is not permissible until it is proved -that they can hold their own. If this be so the Waganda converts -have proved that the mission was a success, and a most remarkable -success. The missionaries were compelled to bore deep down, and -after that the element sprang up spontaneously. After years of -baffling and unpromising work the converts flocked spontaneously to -the new church of Equatorial Africa. Princes and peasants, chiefs -and warriors came forward to be instructed in the Christian -religion, and to be taught the arts of reading and writing, and to -be the proud possessors of printed books in their own language, -treating of the Author of salvation and His sufferings on behalf of -humanity.</p> - -<p>“The progress of this religion became alarming to the Mohammedans -and their native sympathisers, but it was not until the death of -the politic Mtesa that they could venture upon any plan to thwart -its growth. The accession of a boy-prince to the throne, and the -vices, banghi-smoking, drunkenness, and licentiousness, disclosed -the means whereby the Christians might be suppressed, and the -Moslems with a low, mean craftiness, and charged with concentrated -malice, were not slow to avail themselves of their opportunities. -The young king, despite the reputable character the whites had won -from all classes of the people, now regarded them with thoughts -foully perverted by unmeasured slander. To his distorted view the -missionaries were men banded together for the undermining of his -authority, for sapping the affections and loyalty of his subjects, -and for presently occupying the whole of Uganda. These various -expeditions, which as every one knew were roaming over the country, -now in Masai-land, presently in Usoga, then again in Usukuma and -Unyamwezi, the quarrels on the coast between Seyyid Barghash and -the Germans, the presence of war-ships at Zanzibar, the little -colonies of Germans studding the coast lands—what else could all -these movements aim at but the forcible conquest of Africa? Hence -an era of persecution was initiated by the order to burn and slay; -hence the <i>auto-da-fé</i> in Uganda, the murder of Bishop Hannington, -and the massacre of his caravan in Usogo, the doom that ever seemed -to be imminent over the head of the faithful and patient Mackay, -and the menaced suspension of mission work. When the Christians had -scattered into their hiding places, and the jealousy of the Moslems -had cooled, the young King merged into an intolerable despot, and -murdered indiscriminately. Many an eminent person in the land fell -a victim to his suspicions, and was ordered to be either clubbed to -death or strangled. It was then the Mohammedans, fearing for their -own lives, solicited the aid of the Christians, and the tyrant was -compelled to flee the kingdom to find leisure to repent during his -Lake voyages, and finally to submit to be baptised.”<a name="FNanchor_33_33" id="FNanchor_33_33"></a><a href="#Footnote_33_33" class="fnanchor">[33]</a></p></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_382" id="page_382"></a>{382}</span></p> - -<p>Zachariah and Samuel were now informed that, owing to the impossibility -of leaving my charge, they had better trust to Mr. Stokes and Mr. -Mackay, and that if I could explain matters to their English friends I -would surely do so. Then, seeing that I was resolved on departure, five -of the Christians begged to be permitted to accompany me to the sea, -which permission was readily granted.</p> - -<p>On the 24th, after winding in and out of several valleys, between -various pastoral ranges, which were black from recent fires, as the -grass everywhere was white with age and drought, we entered the valley -of Mavona, to descend gradually amid a thin forest of acacia sprinkled -with euphorbia, milkweed, thistles, and tall aloetic plants. The -settlement of Mavona produced abundantly quite a variety of garden -produce, such as peas, beans, tomatoes, potatoes, manioc, cucumbers, -banigalls, bananas, and plantain.</p> - -<p>The next day, continuing down the Mavona valley for four and a half -hours, we suddenly came in sight of the Alexandra valley, and found that -the long line of hills which winded S.S.E. was on the Karagwé side of -the river. At this season the features of the land on both sides are -very forbidding, and unrelieved by any patch of cultivation, and -rendered more so by the fires, which have transformed every valley and -hill into wastes of black ashes and desolateness.</p> - -<p>During the 26th and 27th we were ferried across the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_383" id="page_383"></a>{383}</span> river in four -double sets of most uncouth canoes, and then the Ankori escort, the -Waganda converts, were dismissed, having satisfied Antari, and each of -our friends with such gifts as won their professions of gratitude.</p> - -<p>The Alexandra Nile at this place was about 125 yards wide, and an -average depth of nine feet, flowing three knots per hour in the centre.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_384" id="page_384"></a>{384}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXXIII" id="CHAPTER_XXXIII"></a>CHAPTER XXXIII.<br /><br /> -THE TRIBES OF THE GRASS-LAND.</h2> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hangg">The Wahuma: the exact opposite of the Dwarfs: their -descendants—Tribes nearly allied to the true negro type—Tribes of -the Nilotic basin—The Herdsmen—The traditions of Unyoro—My -experiences of the Wahuma gained while at Kavalli—View of the -surrounding country from Kavalli camp—Chiefs Kavalli, Katto, and -Gavira unbosom their wrongs to me—Old Ruguji’s reminiscences—The -pasture-land lying between Lake Albert and the forest—The cattle -in the district round Kavalli: their milk-yield—Three cases -referring to cattle which I am called upon to adjudicate—Household -duties of the women—Dress among the Wahuma—Old Egyptian and -Ethiopian characteristics preserved among the tribes of the -grass-land—Customs, habits, and religion of the tribes—Poor Gaddo -suspected of conspiracy against his chief, Kavalli: his death—Diet -of the Wahuma—The climate of the region of the grass-land.</p></div> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />July.<br />The<br />Wahuma.</div> - -<p>The Wahuma are the most interesting people, next to the Pigmies in all -Central Africa. Some philological <i>nidderings</i> have classed them under -the generic name Bantu, and every traveller ambitious of being -comprehended among the scientific, adds his testimony and influence to -perpetuate this most unscientific term. <i>Bantu</i> is an Inner African word -of which the translation is Men. We are therefore asked seriously to -accept it as a solemn fact, upon scientific authority, that the Wahuma, -like the Pigmies, are men.</p> - -<p>The Wahuma are the exact opposite of the dwarfs. The latter are -undersized nomads, adapted by their habits to forest life; the former -are tall, finely-formed men, with almost European features, adapted from -immemorial custom and second nature to life in pastoral lands only. -Reverse their localities, and they pine and die. Take the Pigmies out of -their arboreal<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_385" id="page_385"></a>{385}</span> recesses and perpetual twilight, and from their -vegetable diet, and plant them on a grass-land open to the winds and the -sunshine, feed them on beef and grain, and milk as you may, and they -shrink with the cold and exposure, refuse their meat, and droop to -death. On the other hand, deport the Wahuma into the woods, and supply -them with the finest vegetables, and always with plenty of food, and the -result is, that they get depressed, their fine brown-black colour -changes into ashen gray, the proud haughty carriage is lost, they -contract an aspect of misery, and die in despair and weariness. Yet -these two opposites of humanity are called Bantu, or men, a term which -is perfectly meaningless, and yet as old as the story of the Creation. -In North America we see to-day Esquimaux, English, Irish, German, French -and Spanish Americans, and Indians, and, after the scientific manner, we -should call them Bantu. Interest in the various human families is not -roused by comprehending them under such unphilosophical terms.</p> - -<p>The Wahuma are true descendants of the Semitic tribes, or communities, -which emigrated from Asia across the Red Sea and settled on the coast, -and in the uplands of Abyssinia, once known as Ethiopia. From this great -centre more than a third of the inhabitants of Inner Africa have had -their origin. As they pressed southward and conquered the negro tribes, -miscegenation produced a mixture of races; the Semitic became tainted -with negro blood, the half-caste tribes inter-married again with the -primitive race, and became still more degraded in feature and form, and -in the course of ages lost almost all traces of their extraction from -the Asiatic peoples. If a traveller only bears this fact in mind, and -commences his researches from the Cape of Good Hope, he will be able -easily, as he marches northward, to separate the less adulterated tribes -from those who are so nearly allied to the true negro type as to bear -classification as negroid. The kinky, woolly hair is common to all; but -even in this there are shades of difference from that which is coarse -almost as horse-hair,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_386" id="page_386"></a>{386}</span> to that which rivals silken floss for fineness. -The study of the hair may, however, be left; the great and engrossing -study being the Caucasian faces under the negro hair. From among the -Kaffirs, Zulus, Matabeles, Basutos, Bechuanas, or any other of the -fierce South African tribes, select an ordinary specimen of those -splendidly-formed tribes so ruthlessly denominated as negroes, and plant -him near a West African, or Congoese, or Gabonese type, and place a -Hindu between them, and having been once started on the right trail of -discovery, you will at once perceive that the features of the Kaffir are -a subtle amalgamation of the Hindu and West African types; but if we -take a Mhuma of mature age, the relation to the Hindu will still more -readily appear. Advancing across the Zambezi towards the watershed of -the Congo and Loangwa, we observe among the tribes a confusion of types, -which may be classed indifferently as being an intermediate family -between the West African and the Kaffir; an improvement on the former, -but not quite up to the standard of the latter. If we extend our travels -east or west we will find this to be a far-spreading type. It embraces -the Babisa, Barua, Balunda, and the tribes of the entire Congo basin; -and to the eastward, Wachunga, Wafipa, Wakawendi, Wakonongo, Wanyamwezi, -and Wasukuma. Among them, every now and then, we will be struck with the -close resemblance of minor tribal communities to the finest Zulus, and -near the eastern littoral we will see negroid West Africans reproduced -in the Waiau, Wasagara, Wangindo, and the blacks of Zanzibar. When we -return from the East Coast to the uplands bordering the Tanganika, and -advance north as far as Ujiji, we will see the stature and facial type -much improved. Through Ujiji we enter Urundi, and there is again a -visible improvement. If we go east a few days we enter Uhha, and we are -in the presence of twin-brothers of Zululand—tall, warlike creatures, -with Caucasian heads and faces, but dyed darkly with the sable pigment. -If we go east<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_387" id="page_387"></a>{387}</span> a little further, among those mixtures of pure negroes, -with Kaffir type of ancient Ukalaganza, now called Usumbwa, we see a -tall, graceful-looking herdsman with European features, but dark in -colour. If we ask him what he is, he will tell us his occupation is -herding cattle, and that he is a Mtusi, of the Watusi tribe. “Is there -any country, then, called Utusi?” and he will answer “No; but he came -from the north.” We advance to the north, and we find ourselves -travelling along the spine of pastoral upland. We are in the Nilotic -basin. Every streamlet trends easterly to a great inland sea called now -the Victoria Nyanza, or westerly to the Albert Edward Nyanza. This -upland embraces Ruanda, Karagwé, Mpororo, Ankori, Ihangiro, Uhaiya, and -Uzongora, and all these tribes inhabiting those countries possess -cattle; but the people are not all herdsmen. Many among them are devoted -to agriculture. After journeying hither and thither, we are impressed -with the fact that all those occupied with tending cattle are similar to -that graceful Mtusi whom we met in Usumbwa, and who vaguely pointed to -the north as his original home, and that all the agriculturists are as -negroid in feature as any thick-lipped West Coast African. By dwelling -among them, we also learn that the herdsmen regard those who till the -soil with as much contempt as a London banking clerk would view the farm -labourer. Still advancing to the north we behold an immense snowy range. -It is an impassable barrier; we deflect our march to the west, and find -this Mtusi type numerous, and stretching up to the foot of the -mountains, and to dense, impenetrable forests unfit for the herding of -cattle; and at once the Caucasian type ceases, and the negroid features, -either coppery, black, or mixed complexion—the flat nose, the sunken -ridge, and the projecting of the lower part of the face—are dumb -witnesses that here the wave of superior races was arrested. We retrace -our steps, ascend to the upland and skirt the snowy range eastward, and -over a splendid grazing country called Toro, Uhaiyana, and Unyoro, we -see the fine-featured herdsmen again<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_388" id="page_388"></a>{388}</span> in numbers attending their vast -herds, and the dark flat-nosed negroid tilling the land with hoes, as we -saw them further south. After passing the snowy range on its northern -extremity, we proceed west across the flat grassy valley of the Semliki -to other grassy uplands parallel with Unyoro, but separated from it by -the Albert Nyanza; and over this pastoral region are living together, -but each strictly adhering to his own pursuit, the herdsmen and the -tillers of the soil. During our travels from Usumbwa the herdsmen have -changed their names from Watusi to Wanyambu, Wahuma, Waima, Wawitu, and -Wachwezi. That is, they have accepted these titles in the main from the -agricultural class, but whether in Ankori, or among the Balegga and -Bavira, or dwelling with the Waganda or in Unyoro, they call themselves -Watusi, Wahuma, or Wachwezi. In Karagwé, Ankori, or Usongora, they are -the dominating classes. Their descendants sit in the seat of power in -Ihangiro, Uhaiya, Uganda, and Unyoro; but the people of these countries -are an admixture of the Zulu and West African tribes, and therefore they -are more devoted to agriculture. When, as for instance, tribes such as -Waganda, Wasoga, and Wakuri have been left to grow up and increase in -power and prosperity, we have but to look at the sea-like expanse of the -Victoria Nyanza, and we see the reason of it. No further progress was -possible, and the wave of migration passed westward and eastward, and -overlapped these tribes, and in their progress southward dropped a few -members by the way, to become absorbed by the members of the -agricultural class, and to lose their distinctive characteristics.</p> - -<p>As the traditions of Unyoro report that the Wachwezi came from the -eastern bank of the Victoria Nile, we will cross that river, and we find -that between us and Abyssinia there are no grand physical features such -as great lakes or continuous ranges to bar the migration to the south of -barbarous multitudes; that the soil is poor and the climate dry, and -pasture unpromising, and that all the tribes are devoted to the rearing -of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_389" id="page_389"></a>{389}</span> cattle; that the indigenous races, such as we see in the Congo basin -and near the littoral of east Africa, disparted by the waves of -migrating peoples on their course south, have been so thoroughly -extinguished by the superior Indo-African race that the vast area of the -upland from the Victoria Nile to the Gulf of Aden simply repeats its -long-established types, which we may call Galla, Abyssinian, Ethiopic, -or Indo-African.<a name="FNanchor_34_34" id="FNanchor_34_34"></a><a href="#Footnote_34_34" class="fnanchor">[34]</a> This too brief outline will serve to prepare the -reader for knowing something more of the Wahuma, the true descendants of -these Ethiopians, who have for fifty centuries been pouring over the -continent of Africa east and west of the Victoria Nyanza in search of -pasture, and while doing so have formed superior tribes and nations -along their course, from the Gulf of Aden to the Cape of Good Hope—a -vast improvement on the old primitive races of Africa.</p> - -<p>I propose to illustrate the Wahuma by our experiences with those who -recognised Kavalli as chief.</p> - -<p>Looking westward from Kavalli’s we had a prospect of over 1,000 square -miles. Though fairly populous in parts, the view was so immense that it -suggested little of human presence except in the immediate foreground. -Compared to the mountainous ridges and great swells of land, what were a -few clusters of straw-coloured cotes, with generous spaces between -showing the small arable plots of the Bavira soil-tillers? During the -earlier days of our residence at Kavalli we<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_390" id="page_390"></a>{390}</span> enjoyed the free, -uninterrupted, limitless view of pasture-land, swelling ridge, bold -mountain, isolated hill, subsiding valleys, and extending levels. -Undisturbed by anxiety from want of food, and satisfied with our diet of -grass-land esculents and nourishing meat, it was exhilarating to the -nerves to watch the countless grass blades stoop in broad waves before -the gusty winds from the Nyanza, and see them roll and swerve in -currents of varying green, after our long forest life.</p> - -<p>Kavalli’s zeriba, wherein he herded his cattle and flocks every night, -was in the centre of a gentle slope of turfy green. Constant browsing by -the swarming herds of himself and Wahuma neighbours kept the grass -short, and gave us unobstructed views and walks over delicious pasture. -Even the tiny chicklings attendant on the mother hen might be numbered -at a bowshot’s distance. Every few yards or so there rose an ant-hill -from 3 to 12 feet high. They served happily enough for the herdsmen to -keep watch over their herds and flocks of sheep and goats, and those -near the kraals were the resort of the elders and gossips to discuss the -events of the period. There at such times, in low converse with Kavalli -and his aged men, I gained large insight into the local histories of the -villages and tribes about him. Indeed, no more suitable spot could be -found, for before us were mapped out nearly threescore districts.</p> - -<p>Far to the west rose Pisgah, throned high above a hundred leagues of -dark forest-land, and every yard of its contour distinct in delineation -against the reddening sky. Lifted in lone majesty, a sombre mass, it -attracted the attention in every pause of the conversation. From Pisgah, -which to Kavalli was the end of the world, all beyond being fable and -night, he would direct our gaze to Kimberri’s cones, a day’s march -N.N.W. to the lofty peak of Kuka seen just behind, and then to the massy -square-browed mount of Duki, and the flats below occupied by the -Balungwa, of whose numerous herds he had much to say; and to Kavalli, be -it remembered, there<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_391" id="page_391"></a>{391}</span> was no subject so worthy of talk as cattle. To the -south of west a range of grassy mountains rose in Mazamboni’s country, -and extending in a seemingly unbroken line to the verge of the gulf -occupied by the Albert Lake, and its bordering plains, valleys, and -terraces. The westerly portion is governed by Mazamboni, the easterly by -Chief Komubi. The plain extending from the mountains as far as Kavalli -is called Uzanza, and is occupied by the agricultural Bavira, who came -originally from behind Duki, in the neighbourhood of Kuka Peak. Between -Kavalli and Kimberri a great cantle of the plain is owned by warlike -Musiri and his people.</p> - -<p>Having dealt with the main feature of the land, Kavalli proceeds to -unbosom himself. He is in danger of his life from Kadongo, who is an -ally of Kabba-Rega, and he has an enemy in Katonza. Some years ago -Kavalli possessed a village near the Nyanza, where his fishermen lived. -Kadongo envied him the fine possession, and with Katonza and some -raiders of Unyoro set upon Kavalli, burned his village, slew many of his -people, and despoiled him of all his cattle in one night. Kavalli fled -to Melindwa, and after awhile he returned to live with the Bavira, and -by scraping a bit here and there, and making good bargains, he can show -about eighty head of cattle to-day. He has received warning, however, -that Kadongo will attack him again.</p> - -<p>No sooner has Kavalli ceased his graphic recital wrongs endured, than -Katto and Kalengé—Mazamboni’s brother and cousin—begin to detail the -wrongs inflicted on them by Musiri. A brother and a sister, several -relatives, and many friends have been slaughtered by relentless Musiri. -The stories are given circumstantially with expressive action, and -heighten the atrocious conduct of Musiri.</p> - -<p>Then Gavira begins to relate how the Balegga of Mutundu, and Musiri, -have ill-treated him. According to him, what few herds escaped the -rapacious Wara-Sura during their periodic raids have been often thinned -by the nocturnal cattle-lifters of Mutundu and Musiri,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_392" id="page_392"></a>{392}</span> who steal -alternately from him. “Ah,” says Gavira, “to-day it is the Wara-Sura, -to-morrow it is Musiri, the day after Mutundu; we are continually flying -to the hills from somebody.”</p> - -<p>Yet, gazing on the wonderfully pleasant scene of green grass-land before -us, with not a cloud in the sky, and a drowsy restfulness everywhere, -who could have supposed this Arcadia-like land was disturbed by -contentions, enmities, and wars?</p> - -<p>Most of the Wahuma now west of the Albert came from Unyoro, as they fled -from the avaricious tyranny and avarice of its kings.</p> - -<p>Old Ruguji, for instance, who is next neighbour to Kavalli, and whose -forty head of cattle we rescued for him from Melindwa, was born in -Unyoro, and remembers his great-grandfather, who must have been born -about 1750 <small>A.D.</small> When he was ten years old (1829) Kuguji remembered -Chowambi, father of Kamrasi, the father of Kabba Rega, sending to his -great-grandfather for cattle. “At that time the Semliki River flowed -into a large lagoon, called Katera, on the south-east side of the Lake. -The Waganda were often prevented from crossing over to the Balegga -countries because of those lagoons, but since the lagoons have been -filled with mud, and the Semliki falls into the Lake, and as Kamrasi -wanted cattle continually, and one day he took all, I took my women and -children, when I was a young man, and came over here.”</p> - -<p>“Have you had peace here, Ruguji?”</p> - -<p>“See my scars; I have things to remind me of the Balegga and Melindwa, -Musiri and the Wara-Sura. The Bavira also came from Kukaland, and they -asked our permission while we were feeding our herds to come and live -with us, but they have the big head also, and some day there will be -trouble with them.”</p> - -<p>The pasture-land lying between Lake Albert and the forest was subjected -to much denudation by rain. Though the bosses of hills, ridges, dykes, -bear an approximately uniform level, the intermediate ground varies -greatly—it is highest of course as it approaches<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_393" id="page_393"></a>{393}</span> the Albert, and -lowest towards the Ituri river, which drains nearly the whole of the -area. It would be difficult, however, to find an absolutely level tract -of any respectable extent, though a cursory view of it might decide -otherwise. It is a complicated system of slope and counter-slope, -supplying scores of tributary rivulets, brooks and stream, belonging to -some main feeder of the Ituri.</p> - -<p>The nature of the soil, being a loose sandy loam—loosened still more by -hosts of burrowing beetles, which do the office of moles and -earthworms—offers no resistance to the perpetual denuding of the -surface by frequent furious and long-lasting rainstorms, despite its -rich crops of grass. A visit to one of the streams after a rainstorm -reveals how rapid is the process of destruction; and if we follow one of -these smaller streams to the confluence with the main tributary, we -shall see yet greater proofs of the havoc created in the face of the -apparently smooth swells of land than would appear at first possible by -a few hours’ heavy rain.</p> - -<p>In the district in view from Kavalli I have estimated that the entire -number of cattle cannot exceed 4,000 head. They are almost equal in size -to English oxen, and are of a humpless breed, very different from the -species south and east of Lake Victoria. The horns are of medium length, -though there are some few distinguished for unusual length of their -horns. The bulls, however, were well developed in the hump. The cattle -of Usongora and Unyoro are mostly all of a hornless and humpless breed, -and principally of a fawn colour; while those of Ankori have immensely -long horns, and their hides are of variegated hue. It is said that the -cattle are made hornless by burning them with fire, with a view to -enable them to penetrate jungles. The owners mark their cattle on the -ears with one or several cuts, by piercing or excision at the ends.</p> - -<p>Kavalli informed me that large numbers of cattle are sometimes poisoned -by plants, if they happened to be driven somewhere not generally haunted -by them. Repeated burnings of the grass, however, render the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_394" id="page_394"></a>{394}</span> herbage -innocuous. The plains in the neighbourhood of the Lake are very fatal to -the herds. In fifteen days a disease develops, with a running at the -nostrils; the milk dries up, the coats begin to stare, the animal -refuses to eat, and dies.</p> - -<p>The old Wahuma have good veterinary knowledge perhaps, but many of their -practices would not bear repeating. I wished to have some butter made -with my ration of milk, and sent to borrow a churning gourd, and after -the operation directed the servants to wash the vessel; but this -produced a storm of reproaches. They believed water in the vessel to -injure the cattle. Nor will they permit a person who eats cooked food to -put his lips to any pot, basin, or gourd that is used in contact with -their cows.</p> - -<p>The sound of the churning was heard daily in a hut near my tent, and the -operation was performed in a somewhat similar style to agitating a -punkah, the milk gourd being suspended to the rafter of a house.</p> - -<p>The milk yield of the cattle is very small considering the size of the -cattle and the abundance of pasturage. The best milker does not furnish -more than half a gallon per diem. Kavalli’s boys and young men were -employed in milking our cattle. They invariably lashed the hind legs -together, and brought the calf to its mother’s head; one hand held the -wooden vessel and the other milked, and they appeared to leave but -little for the hungry calves. The goats often gave us as much milk as an -ordinary cow, but I have never observed that the natives cared for the -fair supply they might have obtained from these useful animals.</p> - -<p>Though a woman is as much a chattel in these lands as any article their -lords may own, and is priced at from one to five head of cattle, she is -held in honour and esteem, and she possesses rights which may not be -overlooked with impunity. The dower stock may have been surrendered to -the father, but if she be ill used she can easily contrive at some time -to return to her parents, and before she be restored the husband must -repurchase her, and as cattle are valuable, he is likely to bridle his<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_395" id="page_395"></a>{395}</span> -temper. Besides, there is the discomfort of the cold hearth, and the -chilly arrangement of the household, which soon serve to subdue the -tyrant.</p> - -<p>I was requested to adjudicate a case relating to marriage custom, -between Kavalli on the one hand, owner of a slave girl, and Katonza, a -Mhuma chief. The latter had sought Kavalli’s girl in marriage, and had -paid two cows for her out of three that had been fixed as the price. -Kavalli therefore detained the bride of Katonza, and this detention was -the cause of his grievance. The price was not denied, and Katonza -offered a plea that he feared the girl might not be surrendered by -Kavalli if he paid the third cow. He was requested to put the cow into -court, and in this manner the bride was forthcoming.</p> - -<p>Kavalli brought another case to me for consideration. He was already -five times married, and he desired a sixth wife. He had purchased her -from the tribe of Bugombi, and her parents, having heard something to -his prejudice, wished to compel a double payment, and would not deliver -her to him. Whereupon I suggested to Kavalli that by giving another cow -and a calf the matter might be arranged.</p> - -<p>The next case that I had to judge was somewhat difficult. Chief Mpigwa -having appeared at the Barza (Durbar), a man stepped up to complain of -him, because he withheld two cows that belonged to his tribe. Mpigwa -explained that the man had married a girl belonging to his tribe and had -paid two cows for her, that she had gone to his house, and in course of -time had become a mother, and had borne three children to her husband. -The man died, whereupon his tribe accused the woman of having contrived -his death by witchcraft, and drove her home to her parents. Mpigwa -received her into the tribe with her children, and now the object of -complaint was the restoration of the two cows to the husband’s tribe. -“Was it fair,” asked Mpigwa, “after a woman had become the mother of -three children in the tribe to demand the cattle back again after the -husband’s death, when they had sent the woman and her infants away of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_396" id="page_396"></a>{396}</span> -their own accord?” The decision upheld Mpigwa in his views, as such -conduct was not only heartless and mean, but tended to bring the -honoured custom of marriage contracts into contempt.</p> - -<p>The women have control within the house, and over the products of the -dairy and the field. It is the man’s duty to build the house, tend and -milk the cattle, repair the fence, and provide the clothing, which is -naturally scanty; but it is the woman who cultivates the field, makes -the butter, and does the marketing. Butter and milk must be purchased -from her, as well as the provisions. It is an universal custom in -Africa.</p> - -<p>The dress of the men consists generally of a single goat-skin, which -depends from the left shoulder. It is varied with antelope-hide with the -hair scraped off, excepting a margin of three or four inches wide round -the borders. The wives are clothed with cow-hides, which are often -beautifully tanned and soft: slave women, in the absence of a goat-skin, -wear a strip of leather round the waist, from which a narrow piece of -bark cloth depends in front and back, or a very limited apron. Girls up -to a marriageable age travel about publicly in complete nudity, while -boys over ten years old are rarely seen without a kid-skin, aping the -adult: on occasions of rejoicing each woman bears in her girdle at the -back a bunch of green leaves, corn or sugar-cane leaves, or a piece of -banana frond.</p> - -<p>The favourite wives of chiefs, or “medicine women,” “witches,” are also -entitled like the great chiefs to wear a leopard-skin, or in lieu of -that, cat or monkey-skins. It seems to be a pretty general idea that -leopard or lion skins prove rank and dignity. If a stranger expresses a -doubt that a chief is only a person of low rank, he points to his -leopard-skin and asks, “How can I possess this, then?”</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill-396_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/ill-396_sml.jpg" width="368" height="628" alt="A PAGE FROM MR. STANLEY’S NOTE-BOOK." -title="A PAGE FROM MR. STANLEY’S NOTE-BOOK." /></a><br /> -<span class="caption">A PAGE FROM MR. STANLEY’S NOTE-BOOK.</span> -</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill-399_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/ill-399_sml.jpg" width="258" height="278" alt="MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS OF THE BALEGGA." -title="MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS OF THE BALEGGA." /></a><br /> -<span class="caption">MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS OF THE BALEGGA.</span> -</p> - -<p>In looking over Wilkinson’s ‘Ancient Egyptians’ the other day I was much -struck with the conservative character of the African, for among the -engravings I recognize in plate 459 the form of dress most common among -the Wahuma, Watusi, Wanyambu, Wahha,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_398" id="page_398"></a>{398}</span><a name="page_399" id="page_399"></a><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_397" id="page_397"></a>{397}</span> Warundi, and Wanyavingi, and -which were in vogue thirty-five centuries ago among the black peoples -who paid tribute to the Pharaohs. The musical instruments also, such as -are figured in plates 135, 136—a specimen of which is in the British -Museum—we discovered among the Balegga and Wahuma, and in 1876 among -the Basoga. The hafts of knives, the grooves in the blades and their -form, the triangular decorations in plaster in their houses, or on their -shields, bark clothes, boxes, cooking utensils, and in their weapons, -spears, bows, and clubs; in their <i>mundus</i>, which are similar in form to -the old pole-axe of the Egyptians, in the curved head-rests, their ivory -and wooden spoons; in their eared sandals, which no Mhuma would travel -without; in their partiality to certain colours, such as red, black, and -yellow; in their baskets for carrying their infants; in their reed -flutes; in the long walking-staffs; in the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_400" id="page_400"></a>{400}</span> mode of expressing their -grief, by wailing, beating their breasts, and their gestures expressive -of being inconsolable; in their sad, melancholy songs; and in a hundred -other customs and habits, I see that old Egyptian and Ethiopian -characteristics are faithfully preserved among the tribes of the -grass-land.</p> - -<p>The boys have games similar to those of “marbles” and ball and -backgammon with us. As the ancients bore their watering-pots for -irrigating their fields, so the Wahuma convey the milk to their chiefs; -and the oil of their castor berries, and butter, serve to perpetuate the -custom of old antiquity in their ablutions; and in the respect paid to -the elders and their chiefs by the modern youth of Inner Africa may be -observed that reverence which was so often inculcated in the olden time. -These people, having no literature, and undisturbed by advent of -superior influences among them, have only learned what has been -communicated to them by their parents, who had received from their -progenitors such few functions and customs as were necessary for -existence and preservation of their particular tribal distinctions. Thus -the unlettered tribes of these long unknown regions are discovered to be -practising such customs, habits and precepts, as must have distinguished -the ancestors of the founders of the Pyramids in the dark prehistoric -ages of Egypt.</p> - -<p>No traces of any religion can be found among the Wahuma. They believe -most thoroughly in the existence of an evil influence in the form of a -man, who exists in uninhabited places as a wooded, darksome gorge, or -large extent of reedy brake, but that he can be propitiated by gifts; -therefore the lucky hunter leaves a portion of the meat, which he -tosses, however, as he would to a dog, or he places an egg, or a small -banana, or a kid-skin, at the door of the miniature dwelling which is -always found at the entrance to the zeriba.</p> - -<p>Every person wears a charm around the neck, or arm, or waist. They -believe in “evil eyes” and omens, but are not so superstitious as the -Waganda, probably because they are so scattered. Witchcraft is -dreaded,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_401" id="page_401"></a>{401}</span><a name="page_402" id="page_402"></a> and the punishment of a suspected person follows swiftly.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill-400_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/ill-400_sml.jpg" width="310" height="531" alt="WEAPONS OF THE BALEGGA AND WAHUMA TRIBES." -title="WEAPONS OF THE BALEGGA AND WAHUMA TRIBES." /></a><br /> -<span class="caption">WEAPONS OF THE BALEGGA AND WAHUMA TRIBES.</span> -</p> - -<p>Poor Gaddo, a good-looking, faithful young fellow who accompanied Mr. -Jephson as lake pilot to Mswa Station soon after his return to Kavalli’s -village, was suspected of conspiring against his chief. Gaddo came to me -and reported that he was in danger, and he was advised to remain in my -camp until we should leave. The elders proceeded with a fowl to a -distance of about a hundred yards beyond the camp, and opened the -breast. They were seen whispering together over what they had -discovered, and it was presently known that the jury had found Gaddo -guilty of evil practices against Kavalli, and this was doom. As Gaddo -was as guiltless as the babe unborn, a messenger was sent to the chief -to say that if he were injured Kavalli would be held responsible. Yet -Gaddo felt so uncomfortable in the vicinity of the village, as public -opinion had already condemned him, that he sought to escape to Katonza’s -by the lake, but on the brow of the plateau fate found him. It was -reported circumstantially that while standing on a rock he had fallen -over and broken his neck. It was very sad to hear the young wife and -children and sisters wailing for the dead, and Kavalli was markedly good -and amiable in those days.</p> - -<p>The diet of the Wahuma is principally milk. The sale of their butter and -hides now and then enables them to purchase sweet potatoes, millet, and -bananas, but it is with a peculiar pride they say they are not “hoemen.” -The sorghum of the tribes around them is of the red variety. The Indian -corn, or maize, is of an inferior quality. It is planted in the latter -part of February at the same period as the beans. In two months the -latter are fit to be eaten. A month later the corn comes into ear, and -in the fourth month it is mature. In September the millet is sown and is -ripe for cutting in February. Every village owns extensive tracts -planted with sweet potatoes, and along the edges of their plantain -groves they grow <i>colocassia</i>, or <i>helmia</i>; but the latter are not -favourites with strangers, as<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_403" id="page_403"></a>{403}</span> ignorance in the art of cooking them -leaves them nauseous.</p> - -<p>The “malwa,” or beer, is from fermented millet and ripe bananas. It is -in great demand, and a chief’s greatest business in life appears to be -paying visits to his friends round about, for the purpose of exhausting -their malwa pots. Fortunately, it is not very potent, and is scarcely -strong enough to do more than inspire a happy convivial feeling.</p> - -<p>The climate of the region is agreeable. Five hours’ work per day can be -performed, even out-door, without discomfort from excessive heat, and -three days out of seven during the whole of daylight, because of the -frequent clouded state of the sky. When, however, the sky is exposed, -the sun shines with a burning fervour that makes men seek the shelter of -their cool huts. The higher portions of the grass-land—as at Kavalli’s, -in the Balegga Hills, and on the summit of the Ankori pastoral -ranges—range from 4,500 to 6,500 feet above the sea, and large extents -of Toro and Southern Unyoro as high as 10,000, and promise to be -agreeable lands for European settlers when means are provided to convey -them there. When that time arrives they will find amiable, quiet, and -friendly neighbours in that fine-featured race, of which the best type -are the Wahuma, with whom we have never exchanged angry words, and who -bring up vividly to the mind the traits of those blameless people with -whom the gods deigned to banquet once a year upon the heights of -Ethiopia.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_404" id="page_404"></a>{404}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXXIV" id="CHAPTER_XXXIV"></a>CHAPTER XXXIV.<br /><br /> -TO THE ENGLISH MISSION STATION, SOUTH END OF VICTORIA NYANZA.</h2> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hangg">Ankori and Karagwé under two aspects—Karagwé; and the Alexandra -Nile—Mtagata Hot Springs—A baby rhinoceros, captured by the -Nubians, shows fight in camp—Disappearance of Wadi Asmani—The -Pasha’s opinion of Captain Casati—Surgeon Parke and the pigmy -damsel—Conduct of a boy pigmy—Kibbo-bora loses his wife at the -Hot Springs—Arrival at Kufarro—Recent kings of Karagwé—Kiengo -and Captain Nelson’s resemblance to “Speke”—The King of Uganda -greatly dreaded in Karagwé—Ndagara refuses to let our sick stay in -his country—Camp at Uthenga: loss of men through the cold—We -throw superfluous articles in Lake Urigi in order to carry the -sick—We enter the district of Ihangiro: henceforward our food has -to be purchased—The Lake of Urigi—At the village of Mutara, -Fath-el-Mullah runs amuck with the natives, and is delivered over -to them—The Unyamatundu plateau—Halt at Ngoti: Mwengi their -chief—Kajumba’s territory—We obtain a good view of Lake -Victoria—The country round Kisaho—Lions and human skulls in the -vicinity of our camp—The events of 1888 cleared our track for a -peaceful march to the sea—We reach Amranda and Bwanga—The French -missionaries and their stations at Usambiro—Arrival at Mr. -Mackay’s, the English Mission station—Mr. Mackay and his books—We -rest, and replenish our stores, etc.—Messrs. Mackay and Deakes -give us a sumptuous dinner previous to our departure—The last -letter from Mr. A. M. Mackay, dated January 5, 1890.</p></div> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />July 28.<br />Karagwé.</div> - -<p>A stranger entering Ankori or Karagwé in the dry season, and taking a -casual view around, and seeing only vast spaces made black with fire, -and lines and massive outcroppings of grey rock, long mountainous ridges -heaving one after another, all burnt up, and scorched to seeming -desolateness, would be apt to exclaim impatiently, “Show me one beauty -spot on the face of it!” This man is an old acquaintance of mine. He is -a spleeny, querulous, joyless fellow, of thin blood and aching liver. He -will go to the Congo, or to East Africa, or to Bechuanaland, and -standing on an <span class="pagenum"><a name="page_405" id="page_405"></a>{405}</span>ant-heap, he will ask with a sneer, “Do you call this -Africa? Pho!” Nevertheless, within three weeks after the fire which -burnt the sere grass, and gave the land an aspect of desolation, the -young grass is waving merrily, exulting in its youth, and beauty, and -greenness over mountain summit, slope, and valley, and these two -pasture-lands, renowned for the breeding of their cattle, really look -beautiful. I have seen them now under two aspects. To Ankori I give the -preference. In it are mighty extents of plain stretching in a hazy, -billowy manner, broken up here and there by humpy eminences, pap-like -hills, and dwarfish mounts, divided by tributaries of the Alexandra like -the Rwizi, or by feeders of the Albert Edward like the Rusango, and all -within curving lines of grand grass-covered ranges, which separate one -broad river basin from another. It seems as though all this was arranged -after some cunning plan, to meet the exigencies of exclusive tribes. The -plan has been defeated, however, for Antari reigns over the basins of -the Rwizi, the Namianja, the Rusango, and many another stream, despite -the mountainous dyke, and of late years he has annexed Mpororo country, -and if his power were equal to his ambition he would probably annex -Karagwé, and Koki, and Uddu, down to the Victoria Lake.</p> - -<p>We are now in Karagwé. The Alexandra Nile—drawing its waters from -Ruanda, Mpororo, to the west; and from north, Uhha; and north-east, -Urundi and Kishakka—runs north along the western frontier of Karagwé, -and reaching Ankori, turns sharply round to eastward to empty into the -Victorian Sea; and as we leave its narrow valley, and ascend gradually -upward, along one of those sloping narrow troughs so characteristic of -this part of Central Africa, we camp at Unyakatera, below a mountain -ridge of that name, and like the view obtained from that summit two -score of times repeated, is all Karagwé. It is a system of deep narrow -valleys running between long narrow ranges as far as the eye can reach. -In the north of Karagwé they are drained by small streams which flow -into the Alexandra.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_406" id="page_406"></a>{406}</span></p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />July 29.<br />Mtagata.</div> - -<p>The second day’s travel was terminated when we reached Mtagata hot -springs, which I have already described in ‘Through the Dark Continent.’</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill-406a_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/ill-406a_sml.jpg" width="334" height="335" alt="A HOT SPRING, MTAGATA. (From a Photograph.)" -title="A HOT SPRING, MTAGATA. (From a Photograph.)" /></a><br /> -<span class="caption">A HOT SPRING, MTAGATA. (From a Photograph.)</span> -</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill-406b_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/ill-406b_sml.jpg" width="539" height="348" alt="BABY RHINOCEROS SHOWING FIGHT IN CAMP." -title="BABY RHINOCEROS SHOWING FIGHT IN CAMP." /></a><br /> -<span class="caption">BABY RHINOCEROS SHOWING FIGHT IN CAMP.</span> -</p> - -<p>Soon after reaching the camp our Nubians set out to hunt, for the land -is famous for rhinoceros, and being good shots, they dropped four of -these huge beasts, and captured a baby, which they brought to us. We -tied the baby, which was as large as a prize boar, to a tree, and he -fully showed what combativeness there was in his nature. Sometimes he -mistook the tree for an enemy, and rushed to the attack, battering it -with its horny nose until, perceiving that the tree obstinately resisted -him, he would halt to reconnoitre it, as though he had the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_408" id="page_408"></a>{408}</span><a name="page_409" id="page_409"></a><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_407" id="page_407"></a>{407}</span> intention -of assaulting it by another method; but at such times some wicked -Zanzibari boys prodded him in the hams with a reed cane, and uttering a -startling squeal of rage he would dash at the offenders to the length of -his tether. He seemed to me to be the stupidest, most ireful, -intractable little beastie that ever I had met. Feeling himself -restrained by the cord, he felt sure it must be the tree that was -teasing him, and he would make another dash at it with such vehemence -that sent him on his haunches; prodded, pricked in the rear, he squealed -again, and swinging round with wonderful activity, he would start -headlong, to be flung on his back by the rope; until at last, feeling -that it would be only misery to him to be carried to the coast, he was -consigned to the butcher and his assistants.</p> - -<p>On the march of July 31st to Kirurumo, Wadi Asmani, a Zanzibari headman, -laid his rifle and box on the path, and disappeared without a word of -parting or warning to any person, with nearly thirty months’ pay due to -him, while in perfect condition of body and at peace with all the world.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />July 31.<br />Kirurumo.</div> - -<p>Captain Casati was placed in a hammock and carried on account of -increasing weakness. The Pasha visited me, and related his opinion that -Casati was a curious man. Said he: “I have just come from seeing my -friend Casati; I found him lying on some grass, and the sunshine pouring -on his bare head with such heat that, even with my topee, I suffered -inconvenience. He has four women, besides two Manyuema and his young man -from our province. I asked him why he did not make his people build him -a shelter with banana leaves, for there were some within forty yards of -him. He replied, ‘I have no servants.’ I then said to him, ‘Why did you -not send for the bath-tub I promised you? You should avail yourself of -these hot springs.’ ‘True,'he replied, ‘but I have no people.’ ‘But you -have four stout female servants that I know of.’ ‘Yes,’ said he, ‘but I -don’t like to ask them to do anything lest they should say I work them -like slaves.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_410" id="page_410"></a>{410}</span> They are widows, you know, and their husbands are dead, -etc.’”</p> - -<p>The young pigmy damsel who had been with us for over a year began to -show symptoms of chronic ill health, and was left with the chief of -Kirurumo. The little thing had performed devoted service to Surgeon -Parke, who had quite won her heart with those soft gentle tones of his -that made everybody smile affectionately on the Doctor. She used to be -the guardian of his tent, and whenever the Doctor had to absent himself -for his duties she crouched at the door, faithful as a spaniel, and -would permit no intruder to approach the doorway. She performed her work -in the most unobtrusive manner, and she was the only one of her sex who -did not abuse the privileges we generally concede to women in the camp. -On the road she carried the Doctor’s satchel, and on nearing the -resting-place she was as industrious as a bee in collecting fuel, and -preparing the Surgeon’s cheering cup of tea, which after patient -teaching she learned was necessary for his well-being. There was a -little fellow of her tribe attached to another of the officers, who -never spoke a word to mortal being except to his master, was one of the -first to gain camp, collect the fuel, and make his fire. Though loaded -on the march he never appeared fatigued or worried, and never gave any -trouble. Sometimes when by his industry he had collected a stock of -fuel, and a big callous-hearted ruffian took it from the boy, he would -show his distress by his looks, but presently gathering courage he would -abandon it and collect another pile, as though time was too precious to -waste in useless argument over the inevitable. And thus the Pigmies -showed by their conduct that they were related to all that was best and -noble in human nature.</p> - -<p>Kibbo-bora, a headman of the Manyuema, lost his wife at the Hot Springs, -and so great was his grief that he had to be restrained lest he should -commit suicide. Sitting apart in the gorge of Mtagata he howled his -laments during twenty-four hours, and his followers formed a chorus to -respond to his mournful cries.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_411" id="page_411"></a>{411}</span> None of us had much sleep that night, -and thus we became involuntarily partakers of his woe. It was several -days before the poor fellow recovered from the shock.</p> - -<p>Continuing our journey along those grassy ridges which run parallel to -deep narrow valleys in a S.S.E. and N.N.W. direction, almost invariably -across the breadth of Karagwé and Ruanda to the westward, in three -marches we arrived at Kafurro, a settlement that was once a favourite -resort of Arab traders.</p> - -<p>As in Uganda, changes have taken place in Karagwé. Mtesa, first made -known to us by Captains Speke and Grant, has departed to the great -majority, and within fourteen years Mwanga, Kiwewa, Karema, and again -Mwanga, have sat on Mtesa’s throne. Rumanika, the gentle pagan, a -characteristic Mhuma, has gone too, to sleep only a little more -peacefully than he had lived. And after him came Kyensi, his eldest son, -who reigned only nine months. Then followed Kakoko, another son, who -usurped the throne and reigned for three years, and during that time -slew seventeen brothers, and put out the eyes of Luajumba, his youngest -brother. Then Ka-chikonju went in unto Kakoko as he lay on his bedstead -sodden with <i>malwa</i>, and drove his sharp spear twice through his breast, -and relieved the land of the tyrant. The same month Hamed bin Ibrahim, -who had lived in Karagwé many years trading in ivory, was murdered by -his son, Syed bin Hamed. The successor of Kakoko to the rights and -prerogatives of King of Karagwé is Ndagara, or Unyagumbwa, for he has -two names, who was now in his sixteenth year, and as the son of Kyensi -was the rightful heir.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />Aug. 3.<br />Kafurro.</div> - -<p>The welcome extended to us through Ankori was extended to the Expedition -in our journey through Karagwé. On the road to Kafurro we had been -permitted to help ourselves to bananas and plantains, and as soon as -Ndagara was officially informed of our arrival, he despatched to camp a -sufficient supply of bananas, an ox, fowls, <i>malwa</i>, and some loads of -beans, sweet potatoes, and grain. In return I made him a<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_412" id="page_412"></a>{412}</span> present of a -Winchester, and a couple of coils of wire.</p> - -<p>Kiengo, also the old guide of Speke and Grant, who accompanied them from -Unyanyembé to Unyoro, sent us an ox, bananas, fowls, and milk; and to -Captain Nelson, because he bore some resemblance to “Speki,” he gave a -fat broad-tailed sheep, and the only tax we had to pay was that on our -patience while listening to his reminiscences of “Speki,” which he was -never tired of repeating.</p> - -<p>The King of Uganda is greatly dreaded in Karagwé. Before Mwanga was -deposed no stranger could pass through the land without obtaining his -sanction. The Waganda, after the death of Rumanika, had carried matters -with such a high hand that they also taxed Ndagara’s Arab guests with -the same freedom as they would have exacted toll in Uganda. Two years -before our arrival the Waganda were in force at Ndagara’s capital, and -at Kitangulé to command the ferries across the Alexandra Nile. They -found Bakari, a coast trader, occupying the place of Hamed Ibrahim at -Kafurro, and demanded from him twenty guns and twenty kegs of powder, -which he refused on the ground that he was a guest of the King of -Karagwé, and not of the King of Uganda; whereupon he and his principal -men were shot forthwith. Considering these things it is not likely we -should have had a peaceful passage through Karagwé had we adopted this -route for the relief of Emin, with such quantities of ammunition and -rifles as would have made Uganda so intractable that nothing but a great -military force would have been able to bring its king to reason.</p> - -<p>It was clearly demonstrated what hold Uganda maintained in Karagwé, when -in obedience to a request from twenty-six of the Pasha’s people that I -should obtain permission of Ndagara for them to remain in the land until -they were cured of their ulcers, I sent word to the king that we had -several men and women unable to travel through excessive illness. -Ndagara returned a reply stating that on no consideration would he -permit<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_413" id="page_413"></a>{413}</span> the people to stay, as if it once reached the ears of the King -of Uganda that he allowed strangers to stay in his country, he would be -so exasperated that he would not only send a force to kill the -strangers, but that Karagwé would be ruined. His reply was given to the -Pasha, and he explained and argued with his wearied and sick followers, -but, as he said, they were resolved to stay, as they had only a choice -of deaths, and as we were already cruelly loaded, there was no help for -it.</p> - -<p>From Kafurro we moved to Rozaka on the 7th, and the next day marched -over dreary wastes of sere grass, in valley and on mountain. The morning -was very gloomy and threatened rain, and after we had filed along a tall -ridge in the face of a bitter and chilly wind, a drizzly sleet commenced -to fall, which paralysed the Pasha’s followers. The rearguard advancing -after the column saw symptoms of collapse among many cases, and its -commander, Captain Nelson, ordered a halt, and directed his men to make -fires, but before the freezing people could reach the warmth, many fell -down and stiffened, and becoming powerless had to be carried to the -fires and shampooed by the Zanzibaris, when they soon recovered. Five, -however, had perished from the cold before the hard-worked rearguard -could reach them. The head of the column, five miles ahead of the -rearguard, had spurred forward to gain shelter in the banana groves of -Uthenga basin, utterly beyond recall, as the habit of the Egyptians and -their followers was to dawdle along the road and place as much as a mile -or two between them and the porters, who by long experience had learned -that it was best to hurry to camp and be relieved of their burdens.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />Aug. 10.<br />Urigi Lake.</div> - -<p>On the 10th we left Uthenga, and crossing two mountain ridges descended -800 feet to the narrow basin at the head of Urigi Lake, then traversed -the ancient bed, and winding along a road followed the east shore line -of the lake. On reaching camp, opposite to where the lake was about a -mile wide, we slaughtered nine head of cattle for meat rations, and -tossed two boxes of Remington ammunition into the water. We<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_414" id="page_414"></a>{414}</span> had already -relieved ourselves of African curios from the forest lands, and of every -superfluous article. We were now beginning to relieve ourselves of the -ammunition, to carry the sick refugees from the Equatorial Province.</p> - -<p>On the 11th we passed out of Karagwé territory, and because of the -complimentary introductions from Ndagara we were welcomed in Ihangiro, -and were escorted from village to village until we halted at Kavari. But -here was the end of the free living. Every grain and banana would have -to be purchased henceforward. From the Albert Nyanza to this first -important district in Ihangiro, nearly 600 miles, the Expedition had -been supplied gratuitously and abundantly. It now behoved us to -distribute to each man, woman, and child in the Expedition supplies of -beads of various colours, red, white, blue, brown, and pink, of -porcelain and glass, and each person would barter these currencies for -food as he or she pleased. To people who were accustomed to eat five -days’ provisions in one day, it was imprudent to give more than four or -five days’ ration beads at a time. Had we given each person a month’s -allowance, which would have been a vast relief to our burdened carriers, -and a saving of some sick people’s lives—as we should have been enabled -to have carried more of them in hammocks—nine-tenths of our followers -would have expended their ration monies in purchasing only a little -grain, but vast quantities of <i>malwa</i>, fowls, and goats, and in ten days -they would have applied for more beads or cloth, and the Expedition -would have been halted, completely beggared.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />Aug. 11.<br />Urigi Lake.</div> - -<p>The Lake of Urigi is pretty when seen from Useni or Kavari. At this -season its hilly frame is all brown, with little dots of dark green bush -scattered here and there; the water was of a light blue owing to a -bright blue sky. Its receding waters have left great extents of flat -plain on the sides and around the bays running far inland into valleys. -Its shores and waters are favourite haunts of birds, from cranes, -herons, and pelicans, to the small black <i>Parra Africana</i>, egrets<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_415" id="page_415"></a>{415}</span> and -waders, which find excellent feeding over the large spaces near the -extremities and shore line of bays, covered with close-packed growths of -<i>Pistia stratiotes</i> plants, until they resemble green lawns from a -little distance off. Hippos abound, and, unfortunately, armies of black -mosquitoes. The eastern shore we found to be littered with bones of -slain animals, for the lions and hyenas, it is said, kill much game. A -large supply of fish is found in the lake, but they are infested with -guinea worm—at least those which we purchased were deemed quite -uneatable from that cause. The lake measures about twenty-five miles in -length by from one to three miles wide, and is sunk about 1200 feet -below the average level of the bare grassy hills around it.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill-415_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/ill-415_sml.jpg" width="324" height="228" alt="LAKE URIGI." -title="LAKE URIGI." /></a><br /> -<span class="caption">LAKE URIGI.</span> -</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />Aug. 12.<br />Mutara.</div> - -<p>From Kavari we journeyed along the lake shore to Mutara. No sooner had -we arrived than native men, women, and children visited us to barter -their surplus provisions of grain, honey, fish, malwa, fowls, and -bananas. The hard-headed Soudanese proceeded to the village of Mutara, a -mile off, and, unduly oblivious of the orders given the day before when -the beads were<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_416" id="page_416"></a>{416}</span> distributed, commenced to loot the village, more -especially for <i>malwa</i> and beans. In a country where not the least -obstacle is placed in the way of travellers, and where they might -purchase anything of the product of the land for cash value, as much -surprise would be manifested as in Cairo or London at the sight of a mob -of men looting stores and markets. Consequently the natives -expostulated, and demanded to know what this conduct implied. For -answer, a Soudanese, Fathel Mullah, loaded his Remington and shot one -man dead, another in the jaw, and another in the leg. As this was -perfectly inexplicable to the natives, instead of avenging themselves -there and then, a body of fifty of them came to the camp as an orderly -deputation, to demand an explanation of me. The story appeared so -incredible that I sent an officer with them to see the dead man and -wounded, and the officer on his return reported that the story was true. -Then every man in the Expedition was mustered, the rolls were called, -Zanzibaris, Soudanese, Manyuema, Egyptians, and their followers, and the -natives were requested to walk all round the rude square, and point out -the man who had entered their village to run amuck while the women were -bartering in the camp, and after going searchingly about, five of them -pointed at Fathel Mullah. As this was not sufficient evidence even, the -question was addressed to the Soudanese, and his comrade Sururu stepped -out and described the circumstance that a native had tried to prevent -him taking a pot of <i>malwa</i>, whereupon, calling him <i>Abid</i> and -<i>Kelb</i>—slave and dog—he shot him dead, and fired three or four times -at others indiscriminately.</p> - -<p>“The man is yours—you can take him; but if you will sell him for -cattle, cloth, wire, beads, or anything else, I will buy him.”</p> - -<p>“No, no, no, no; we don’t sell our people; not for a hundred cattle -would we part with him.”</p> - -<p>“But what good will his blood be to you? You can’t eat him; he will not -work for you. Take five cattle for him.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_417" id="page_417"></a>{417}</span>”</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />Aug. 13.<br />Ngoti.</div> - -<p>“No, no, no, no. We want him, for he has slain a chief man in our -village, and perhaps the others will die also. We will take him.”</p> - -<p>“Take him, then; he does not belong to me, and has no right in my camp.”</p> - -<p>He was marched away, and we never knew what became of him.</p> - -<p>On the next day we struck away more easterly from Lake Urigi, over rough -stony ground, which was waterless and uninhabited, with numerous -ant-hills covered with sickly and dwarfed bush, a thin forest of -miserable acacia spreading out on either hand, leafless, decaying, and -dead. Within two hours we reached the base of Unya-Matundu plateau, and, -as the morning was yet early, we ascended to the summit, 1,200 feet -above Lake Urigi, travelled an hour over a rolling surface of pasture -land, through prosperous fields and scattered settlements, and halted at -Ngoti after four and a half hours’ march.</p> - -<p>Mwengi, the chief, was a gigantic young Mhuma, tall as a guardsman, but -quiet and possessed, and his people obeyed him with alacrity. We -therefore halted to do a day’s bartering. A fine bunch of bananas could -be purchased for ten cowries, and as eight cowries constituted a day’s -ration allowance, no one could possibly complain of insufficient food.</p> - -<p>An hour’s march beyond Ngoti we began to descend the eastern face of the -plateau, and 900 feet below reached a rolling plain covered with -leafless and sickly acacia, and were in the country of Uzinja.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />Aug. 15.<br />Kimwani.</div> - -<p>We halted after five hours in Kimwani or Kizinga—Chief Kajumba’s -territory. The chief was another tall person of the Wahuma breed, at the -time suffering from ophthalmia. When the Waganda invaded his territory a -year ago he fled to Unya-Ruwamba, the Urigi district of Ihangiro, and -hid himself on an island in the lake, whence, after paying a tribute of -cattle to Uganda, he was permitted to return to his own land as a -subject of Mwanga, but to find his banana groves cut down and the land -well cleaned of every product. For the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_418" id="page_418"></a>{418}</span> protection afforded him in his -distress, Ihangiro claims Kimwani as a district attached to it. -Kassasura, King of Usui, having invaded Kimwani and captured Kajumba and -held him a prisoner for two months, also lays claim to his allegiance.</p> - -<p>Kajumba, was liberal to us, as he sent us eighty-one bunches of bananas, -one goat, and two pots of <i>malwa</i>. As he was on the verge of senility, -he was inclined to be despotic and querulous, and it may be imagined -that perhaps a small caravan would be differently treated.</p> - -<p>Accompanied by guides from Kimwani we set out southward, and three miles -beyond Kajumba’s we obtained a charming view of Lake Victoria and the -islands Ikuta, Majinga, Soswa, Rumondo, and distant Mysomé, and near -noon we camped at Nyamagoju, at the south-west extremity of an arm of -the lake which receives the Lohugati, a periodical stream draining East -Usui.</p> - -<p>The next day’s march was along a plain which extended from Nyamagoju to -another lake arm, at whose extremity we camped at a village called -Kisaho. Our route each day now was across flat extents of land, from -which the Lake had within twenty-five years or so receded. They are -covered over with low bush, which at this season is leafless. The ground -is dry, streamless, hard-baked and cracked, and shows a nitrous -efflorescence in many places. To our right, as the land rises, on ridges -over fifty feet above the Lake, we find a thin dwarf forest; at a -hundred feet elevation we see respectable trees, and grasses become more -nutritious.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />Aug. 20.<br />Itari.</div> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill-419_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/ill-419_sml.jpg" width="547" height="354" alt="SOUTHWEST EXTREMITY OF LAKE VICTORIA NYANZA." -title="SOUTHWEST EXTREMITY OF LAKE VICTORIA NYANZA." /></a><br /> -<span class="caption">SOUTHWEST EXTREMITY OF LAKE VICTORIA NYANZA.</span> -</p> - -<p>We cut across a broad cape-like formation of land and passed from the -bay of Kisaho to a bay near Itari on the 20th, and from the summit of a -high ridge near the latter place I perceived by compass bearings and -solar observation, that we were much south of the south-west coast line, -as marked on my map in “Through the Dark Continent.” From this elevated -ridge could be seen the long series of islands overlapping one another, -which, in our flight from the ferocious natives<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_420" id="page_420"></a>{420}</span><a name="page_421" id="page_421"></a><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_419" id="page_419"></a>{419}</span> of Bumbiré in 1875, -without oars, had been left unexplored, and which, therefore, I had -sketched as mainland.</p> - -<p>We find that the Wazinja call the Victoria Nyanza Muta Nzigé, as the -Wanyoro call the Albert Lake Muta Nzigé, and the Wasongora and -Wanyankori call the Albert Edward by the same name.</p> - -<p>On leaving Itari we were made aware of lions having paid the vicinity of -our camp a visit by a dead zebra which had just been killed. We were -also astonished at the number of human skulls about, and when we asked -the guides the cause, we were informed that at Itari the Wazinja -endeavoured to oppose the Waganda during their late invasion. It may be -that the Wazinja deserved the cruel visitation. It is well known that -Usui needs a lesson like it. The last caprice of Kasasura has been to -halt a caravan of 150 guns.</p> - -<p>As we reflected on the various events which appear to have occurred in -this region in 1887, the Waganda in force in Karagwé, audacious and -insolent, and shooting Arab traders, and invading Uzinja, and from -Kishakka to the Victoria Lake the land one seething area of strife and -bloodshed, it struck us that the events of 1888, the deposition of -Mwanga, the revolution and counter-revolution, were simply clearing our -track for a peaceful march to the sea.</p> - -<p>It became impressed on us as we travelled over these dry, waterless -plains, with their nakedness scarcely hidden by dwarf acacia, and hardy -euphorbias, that the forest people were utterly unfit to be taken out of -their arboreal homes. Half of those who had accompanied us we had been -obliged to leave behind, and yet there had been no want of either food -or water. In the same manner the Somalis, Soudanese, Madis, or Baris, -when taken into the forest, soon became joyless, dull, and moping, and -died. And yet I have read in affectedly learned books that Africa was -only fit for the Africans!</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />Aug. 21.<br />Amranda.</div> - -<p>To my great surprise, and indeed delight, the Lake extended to 2° 48′ -south latitude, which we ascertained<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_422" id="page_422"></a>{422}</span> on reaching Amranda on the 21st. -The highest elevation reached since leaving Nyamaagoju has not been -higher than 50 feet above the Lake, while immense tracts of as yet poor -flat country have been left bare by the recession of its waters, and -until many a season yet of rains has scoured the nitre out of these -plains they must remain mean and unproductive.</p> - -<p>By a gradual rise from Amranda southward we escape after a few miles out -of the unlovely plains to older land producing a better quality of -timber. Before we were 100 feet above the Lake a visible improvement had -taken place, the acacia had disappeared, and the myombo, a tree whose -bark is useful for native cloth and for boxes, and which might be -adapted for canoes, flourished everywhere. At Bwanga, the next village, -the language of the Wahuma, which we had heard continually since leaving -the Albert Nyanza, ceases, and the Unyamwezi interpreters had now to be -employed, which fact the sceptical Zanzibaris hailed as being evidence -that we were approaching <i>Pwani</i> (the coast).</p> - -<p>And now we had to turn east, straight for the Mission House, which we -began to hear of as being in Usambiro. From Bwanga to Uyombi is a march -of 6¾ hours, thence another, Kamwaga, of 5 hours, thence to Umpeté, 5 -hours, and from thence to the abandoned French Mission Station in -Usambiro in 6 hours. In the centre of the circular palisade was a neat -church, and above the roof of it was a simple cross, which instantly -suggested <span class="smcap">Christ</span> and <span class="smcap">Civilization</span>, words and thoughts to which I fear -most of us had been strangers for many months.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />Aug. 27.<br />Usambiro.</div> - -<p>The French Missionaries, we must admit, are not to be excelled in the -art of building Stations and developing an appearance of comfort and -prettiness out of the most unpromising materials. Those who have -travelled the last three or four hundred miles with us will have seen -that I have been almost indifferent to the face of the land. We had -traversed it during the dry season, when it is difficult to find one -acre out of a million<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_423" id="page_423"></a>{423}</span> worth looking at, and yet equal to the -unloveliest of all was that occupied by this handsome Mission Station. -There were three rows of low earth-covered structures, forming three -sides of a spacious square, and in each row were four or five chambers -neatly plastered within and without with grey clay. Midway between the -houses were the church, excellently built out of materials in the -vicinity; an inner circle of palisades surrounded the civilized -quarters, and an outer circle protected the village of the proselytes. -Nothing could be better, considering that the myombo forest close by, -and the soil around them, furnished the materials, than the plan and -execution of it. One realised how patiently and with what love they must -have laboured. There were two faults in the place, however, which, had -their faith not been so great, they would have known before building. -The natives were cantankerous, hard-hearted, worldly Wanyamwezi, and -there was no water, and before they had quite completed the Station, the -signal for retreat and abandonment was given.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />Aug. 27.<br />Usambiro.</div> - -<p>The next day, having already sent messengers ahead, that we might not -take Mr. Mackay, of the Church Missionary Society, by surprise, we -arrived in view of the English Mission, which was built in the middle of -what appeared to be no better than a grey waste, on ground gently -sloping from curious heaps of big boulders, or enormous blocks thrown -higgledy-piggledy to the height of a respectable hill down to a marshy -flat green with its dense crops of papyrus, beyond which we saw a gleam -of a line of water produced from an inlet of the Victoria Nyanza. We -were approaching the Mission by a waggon track, and presently we came to -the waggon itself, a simple thing on wooden wheels, for carrying timber -for building. There was not a green thing in view except in the marsh; -the aspect was cheerless and melancholy, grass all dead, trees either -shrunk, withered, or dead, at least there was not the promise of a bud -anywhere, which was of course entirely due to the dry season. When we -were about half a mile off a gentleman of small stature, with a rich -brown beard<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_424" id="page_424"></a>{424}</span> and brown hair, dressed in white linen and a grey Tyrolese -hat, advanced to meet us.</p> - -<p>“And so you are Mr. Mackay? Mwanga did not get you, then, this time? -What experiences you must have had with that man. But you look so well -one would say you had been to England lately.”</p> - -<p>“Oh, no, this is my twelfth year. Mwanga permitted me to leave, and the -Rev. Cyril Gordon took my place, but not for long, since they were all -shortly after expelled from Uganda.”</p> - -<p>Talking thus we entered the circle of tall poles within which the -Mission Station was built. There were signs of labour, and constant -unwearying patience, sweating under a hot sun, a steadfast determination -to do something to keep the mind employed, and never let idleness find -them with folded hands brooding over the unloveliness, lest despair -might seize them, and cause them to avail themselves of the speediest -means of ending their misery. There was a big, solid workshop in the -yard filled with machinery and tools, a launch’s boiler was being -prepared by the blacksmiths, a big canoe was outside repairing; there -were sawpits, and large logs of hard timber, there were great stacks of -palisade poles, in a corner of an outer yard was a cattle-fold and a -goat-pen, fowls by the score pecked at microscopic grains, and out of -the European quarter there trooped out a number of little boys and big -boys looking uncommonly sleek and happy; and quiet labourers came up to -bid us, with hats off, “Good Morning.” Now if there is anything on God’s -earth better calculated than work to make men happy, it must be with -some peculiar dispositions the knowledge that their work is ended. -Hence, when I entered the Mission House my soul was possessed with some -such feeling as this; at any rate before my mission was terminated the -welcome we received promised rest and relief.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill-425_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/ill-425_sml.jpg" width="496" height="359" alt="STANLEY, EMIN, AND OFFICERS AT USAMBIRO." -title="STANLEY, EMIN, AND OFFICERS AT USAMBIRO." /></a><br /> -<span class="caption">STANLEY, EMIN, AND OFFICERS AT USAMBIRO.</span> -</p> - -<p>I was ushered into the room of a substantial clay structure, the walls -about two feet thick, evenly plastered, and garnished with missionary -pictures and <span class="pagenum"><a name="page_426" id="page_426"></a>{426}</span><a name="page_427" id="page_427"></a><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_425" id="page_425"></a>{425}</span>placards. There were four separate ranges of shelves -filled with choice, useful books. “Allah ho Akbar,” replied Hassan, his -Zanzibari head-man, to me; “books! Mackay has thousands of books, in the -dining-room, bedroom, the church, everywhere. Books! ah, loads upon -loads of them!” And while I was sipping real coffee, and eating -home-made bread and butter for the first time for thirty months, I -thoroughly sympathised with Mackay’s love of books. But it becomes quite -clear why, amongst so many books, and children, and outdoor work, Mackay -cannot find leisure to brood and become morbid, and think of -“drearinesses, wildernesses, despair and loneliness.” A clever writer -lately wrote a book about a man who spent much time in Africa, which -from beginning to end is a long-drawn wail. It would have cured both -writer and hero of all moping to have seen the manner of Mackay’s life. -He has no time to fret and groan and weep, and God knows if ever man had -reason to think of “graves and worms and oblivion,” and to be doleful -and lonely and sad, Mackay had, when, after murdering his Bishop, and -burning his pupils, and strangling his converts, and clubbing to death -his dark friends, Mwanga turned his eye of death on him. And yet the -little man met it with calm blue eyes that never winked. To see one man -of this kind, working day after day for twelve years bravely, and -without a syllable of complaint or a moan amid the “wildernesses,” and -to hear him lead his little flock to show forth God’s loving kindness in -the morning, and His faithfulness every night, is worth going a long -journey, for the moral courage and contentment that one derives from it.</p> - -<p>We stayed at the Mission Station from the 28th of August to the morning -of the 17th of September, and on the Europeans of the Expedition the -effect of regular diet and well-cooked food, of amiable society and -perfect restfulness, was marvellous.</p> - -<p>We were rich in goods of all kinds, for in Mr. Mackay’s keeping since -Mr. Stokes brought them from the coast in 1888, we possessed about 200 -loads of bulky currency and forty loads of preserved provisions.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_428" id="page_428"></a>{428}</span> Thirty -loads of cloth were instantly distributed among the people on account, -at cost price, that each man might make amends during our rest for any -late privations. We had also fourteen pack-donkeys, which were delivered -to the Pasha’s followers, and the Pasha, Casati, and myself, were able -to purchase riding asses from the French Missionaries at Bukumbi, who -were good enough to visit us with valuable gifts of garden produce. From -their stores our officers were enabled to purchase very necessary -outfits, such as boots, slippers, shirts, and hats, which made them -presentable once more.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill-428_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/ill-428_sml.jpg" width="309" height="283" alt="VIEW FROM MACKAY’S MISSION, LAKE VICTORIA (from a photograph)." -title="VIEW FROM MACKAY’S MISSION, LAKE VICTORIA (from a photograph)." /></a><br /> -<span class="caption">VIEW FROM MACKAY’S MISSION, LAKE VICTORIA (from a -photograph).</span> -</p> - -<p>We were also able to obtain about twenty carriers, to assist in the -carriage of goods, that more of our Zanzibaris might be detailed for -hammock service; and yet after a stay of nineteen days, with as much -food as they could eat, and as great a variety as the country—by<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_429" id="page_429"></a>{429}</span> no -means badly stocked—could provide, when they were mustered for the -march the day before leaving Makolo’s, there were over one hundred -people who complained of asthma, chest, spleen, liver, or lumbar pains, -and declared they could not travel.</p> - -<p>The evening before the day we resumed our journey for the sea Messrs. -Mackay and Deakes, the only two members of the Mission at present at -Makolo’s (Messrs. Gordon and Walker having just departed for Uganda -before we arrived) gave us a sumptuous dinner, roast beef, roast fowl, -stews, rice and curry, plum-pudding, and a bottle of medical wine. And -as is the custom in civilised lands, speeches terminated the banquet. It -fell to my share to propose the health of Emin Pasha, and to Mr. Mackay -to propose mine, and there was no member then present who was not the -recipient of most friendly wishes on the part of everybody else, -delivered, as I thoroughly believe, in perfect sincerity.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="c"> -<i>The last letter from</i> <span class="smcap">Mr. A. M. Mackay</span>.<br /> -</p> - -<p class="r"> -“<span class="smcap">Usambiro</span>,<br /> -“<i>January 5th, 1890.</i><br /> -</p> - -<p class="nind"> -“<span class="smcap">My very dear Sir</span>,<br /> -</p> - -<p>“I have no less than three valuable letters from you, viz., two -dated Usongo, and one from Ugogo. The last arrived here on 1st -December.</p> - -<p>“Since the French priests passed this way to overtake your -Expedition, I have not sent off a post to the coast.</p> - -<p>“I was most pleased to hear of your satisfactory progress; and -doubtless you are, by this time, comfortably housed in civilized -territory, and enjoying a more than well-earned rest after the -fatigues and privations of African travel. If any man merits the -congratulations of Europe, certainly you do. But you will likely -soon be sick of being fêted everywhere, and in disgust, retire into -some out-of-the-way corner to write the full account of your -remarkable adventures. What a strange loneliness hung about this -place—physically and mentally—after you left, goes without -saying. The looked-for mail did not come; only the carriers -returned from Kisokwé, on October 23rd, without any letters from -the coast. Although on December 1st we got a batch of letters, but -no papers or magazines. These will come some time.</p> - -<p>“Deakes has been a good deal unwell, but now fully recovered, while -the commencement of the rains has laid up nearly all my colony of -Baganda with protracted low fever. Your man, Ali bin Said, died on -September 27th, and one of the Pasha’s whites, Mohammed Arabi, died -on October 20th. The others, eight in number, have all fully -recovered, and are at work.</p> - -<p>“I have fitted up my steam engine, and find pumps complete, and -also riveted the boiler, both outer shell and firebox. The boiler -has been a<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_430" id="page_430"></a>{430}</span> serious job, as fourteen years of knocking about have -thrown every plate out of shape, besides turning the iron, -originally of ‘Best’ brand, with a brittle, steely sort of thing, -which determined to crack on the first touch of a hammer. But by -carefully annealing the whole, I have succeeded. I am now rigging -up a steam saw-mill, to cut up the planks for the new boat. The -rough boat, or transformed canoe, which you saw here in progress, -is now nearly finished, and should have been completed some time -ago; but I have not been able to look after it, owing to occupation -at other work, including printing for Buganda.</p> - -<p>“You will have heard that, after severe fighting, the Christians -defeated Kalema and his Arab party, and have replaced Mwanga on the -throne. They have taken possession of all the chieftainships for -themselves, equally dividing them between the Roman Catholics and -the Protestants. An active young fellow named Kagwa Apollo, a pupil -of my own, is now the Katekiro.</p> - -<p>“Mwanga is altogether in the hands of the new Christian chiefs, and -they do not seem likely to allow him to have his own way any more. -Five of the Frenchmen, including their Bishops, are now there, -while our Mission is represented by only Walker and Gordon.</p> - -<p>“I can hear nothing of the I. B. E. A. Co., except the old report -of February from Zanzibar, that they were at Ulu. They seem to -require a man of determination and pluck at their head; and my joy -will be great when I hear of your undertaking to put their affairs -on a sound footing. I am glad to hear of Mr. Mackinnon being -knighted. He well deserves the honour. I have written to his agents -in Zanzibar, explaining the absurdity of their acceding to -Germany’s wish to draw the boundary-line west of this Lake, along -the 1st parallel of S. Lat., as that would cut the kingdom of -Buganda into two halves; for Karagwé, Usui, and Usinja, as far -south as Serombo, are actually part of Buganda, being tributary to -it. No <i>paper</i> delimitation, made in Berlin or London, can ever -remove these states from their allegiance to Buganda. Therefore, -there need be little jealousy about the matter. The only fair -boundary-line that I can see would be from this end of the long -creek (Smith Sound) diagonally S.W. to the intersection of the 4th -parallel with the 32nd degree of E. long., and then straight west -to Bikani on the Tanganika.</p> - -<p>“Many chiefs to the S.W. have been visiting here personally, and -others sending; and I mean to send these letters their way to Uyin, -as the wretched Nindo people are too grasping for my taste.</p> - -<p>“I sent cloth, etc., to Nindo, to redeem your rifle taken from your -messenger; but the rascally Mwanangwa has stuck to both ransom and -rifle, under pretext of some quarrel with Stokes; so I give that -crew a wide berth.</p> - -<p>“I hear, on good authority, that the Banyoro, whom you fought, were -not a chance raiding gang, but Kabba-Rega’s own army, which he sent -expressly to check your advance. He was so terrified at the defeat -of his troops that he took refuge on an island in the Albert Lake. -Mwanga sent here a deputation, a month after you left, craving your -assistance.</p> - -<p>“The Arabs seem now completely discomfited, and have fled from -Nagu. Said bin Saif’s (Kipanda) dhow, with a cargo of guns and kegs -of powder, was captured by Mwanga’s people, and the vessel -destroyed. Sunguru’s likewise. Stokes’ boat is, at this moment, the -only one on the Lake. The <i>Eleanor</i> I have cut up, as being too -rotten for further use, but hope soon to launch the other boat, -which may do good service till I get the steam launch afloat.</p> - -<p>“I have no definite news of the coast. I only heard of the -re-establishment of the Germans at Mpwapwa. Surely, they will learn -wisdom in<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_431" id="page_431"></a>{431}</span> time, but hitherto, they have made a sorry hash of -matters. I only hope they and the English will keep the gunpowder -out. In no other way will they ever be able to exercise any control -on the chiefs in the Interior.</p> - -<p>“‘To be, or not to be; that is the question.’ Is it to be a track -to the Lake or not? I see in you the only hope for this region, in -your getting Sir W. Mackinnon to see the matter in its true light. -I would not give sixpence for all the Company will do in half a -century to come, unless they join the Lake with the coast by a -line, let it be at first ever so rough. When they have got that, -they will have broken the backbone of native cantankerousness.</p> - -<p>“Very many thanks for your kindness in proposing to leave the -theodolite for me at Kisokwe. I hope it will come this far in -safety. I shall value it doubly as a souvenir from your hands.</p> - -<p class="r"> -“With very best wishes,<br /> -“Believe me ever,<br /> -“My dear Sir,<br /> -“Yours faithfully,<br /> -(Signed) “<span class="smcap">A. M. Mackay.</span><br /> -</p> - -<p>“<span class="smcap">H. M. Stanley</span>, Esq.”</p></div> - -<p>To my great grief, I learn that Mr. Mackay, the best missionary since -Livingstone, died about the beginning of February. Like Livingstone, he -declined to return, though I strongly urged him to accompany us to the -coast.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_432" id="page_432"></a>{432}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXXV" id="CHAPTER_XXXV"></a>CHAPTER XXXV.<br /><br /> -FROM THE VICTORIA NYANZA TO ZANZIBAR.</h2> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hangg">Missionary work along the shores of the Victoria Nyanza and along -the Congo River—The road from Mackay’s Mission—The country at -Gengé—Considerable difficulty at preserving the peace at -Kungu—Rupture of peace at Ikoma—Capture and release of -Monangwa—The Wasukuma warriors attack us, but finally -retire—Treachery—The natives follow us from Nera to Seké—We -enter the district of Sinyanga: friendship between the natives and -our men—Continued aggression of the natives—Heavy -tributes—Massacre of a caravan—The district of Usongo, and its -chief Mittinginya—His surroundings and neighbours—Two French -missionaries overtake us—Human skulls at Ikungu—We meet one of -Tippu-Tib’s caravans from Zanzibar—Troubled Ugogo—Lieut. Schmidt -welcomes us at the German station of Mpwapwa—Emin Pasha visits the -Pères of the French mission of San Esprit—The Fathers unacquainted -with Emin’s repute—Our mails in Africa continually going -astray—Contents of some newspaper clippings—Baron von Gravenreuth -and others meet us at Msua—Arrival of an Expedition with European -provisions, clothing and boots for us—Major Wissman—He and -Schmidt take Emin and myself on to Bagamoyo—Dinner and guests at -the German officers’ mess-house—Major Wissman proposes the healths -of the guests; Emin’s and my reply to the same—Emin’s accident—I -visit Emin in the hospital—Surgeon Parke’s report—The feeling at -Bagamoyo—Embark for Zanzibar—Parting words with Emin -Pasha—Illness of Doctor Parke—Emin Pasha enters the service of -the German Government—Emin Pasha’s letter to Sir John Kirk—Sudden -termination of Emin’s acquaintance with me—Three occasions when I -apparently offended Emin—Emin’s fears that he would be -unemployed—The British East African Company and Emin—Courtesy and -hospitality at Zanzibar—Moneys due to the survivors of the Relief -Expedition—Tippu-Tib’s agent at Zanzibar, Jaffar Tarya—The -Consular Judge grants me an injunction against Jaffar Tarya—At -Cairo—Conclusion.</p></div> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />Sept. 16.<br />Victoria<br />Nyanza.</div> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />Sept. 17.<br />Victoria<br />Nyanza.</div> - -<p>It is fifteen years ago this month since I first saw this Victorian Sea, -and launched my boat on its waters, and sailed along the shores, peering -into the bays and creeks, and mapping out the area. Six months later -those two journals, the “Daily Telegraph” and “New York Herald<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_433" id="page_433"></a>{433}</span>” -published the fact to every person who could afford the small sum of one -penny, that the greatest Lake of Africa had been explored, and that at -the north end of the Lake there was an African King ruling three -millions of cleanly people, who cried out that he was in darkness and -required light. And some good men heard the cry, and responded to it -nobly. They sent missionaries to the King, and for years they taught him -and his people, at first with little success, but by-and-by some of the -seed fell upon good soil, and it took root and flourished, and despite -the tares and the thistles and rank grasses that grew in the virgin -soil, there was a good harvest.</p> - -<p>In turning towards the sea, the thought came across my mind that -elsewhere on the Congo, for 1400 miles from the western ocean, it had -been permitted to me to float the steamers along that river, and build -the Stations on its banks, which in 1887 were to be of great service to -me to carry myself and my followers along the great river, and to offer -shelter where we should meet with welcome and hospitality in the same -manner, as this Missionary Station, which we were about to leave, had -received us in 1889 with honour and regard. Truly I felt inclined to use -the metaphor of the Preacher, and to admit that the bread I had cast -upon the waters had returned to me abundantly after many days.</p> - -<p>I do not propose to linger long over the lands intervening between Lake -Victoria and Bagamoyo. I have already described them, and it is needless -to repeat what is already written.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />Sept. 18.<br />Gengé</div> - -<p>The road from Mackay’s Mission takes a south-easterly direction in order -to cross the little stream, which as it approaches the creek at the -south-eastward of Lake Victoria forms a swamp about five yards wide. It -then turns northerly, runs parallel with the creek a little way, and -then strikes easterly over a low plain, where the soil seems to be so -poor as to grow a grass not much higher than rock moss. The 500 yards -wide swamp reminded me that the French missionaries, since their -settlement near the Lake at Bukumbi, have ascertained<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_434" id="page_434"></a>{434}</span> that the Lake is -now three feet lower than when they first settled here—that is about -eleven years ago—that Ukerewé is no longer an island but is a -peninsula. If this be true, and there is no reason to doubt it, and -assuming that the decrease of the Lake has been uniform, a decrease of -fifty feet in the Lake has required 183 years. At the time when -Frederick the Great was crowned King of Prussia Lake Victoria must have -been over 40,000 square miles in extent. It covers now, by this last -discovery at the south-western extremity of the Lake, as near as I am -able to measure it 26,900 square miles.</p> - -<p>The appearance of the country at Gengé, which had steadily improved -since leaving the neighbourhood of Makolo inlet, suggested to our -coloured people that the missionaries had not made a wise choice in -settling in Usambiro. They did not reflect that the more populous a -district in Usukuma, or Unyamwezi is, it becomes less tenable to poor -missionaries, that the taxes, demands, and blackmail of the headstrong -and bumptious chief would soon be so onerous that starvation would be -imminent and the oppression unbearable.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />Sept. 20.<br />Ikoma.</div> - -<p>As, for instance, we reached Ikoma on the 20th. At Gengé and at Kungu we -had considerable difficulty in preserving the peace. The path was beset -by howling mobs, who came up dancing and uttering war-cries. This -mattered very little, but some demon of a youth was mischievous enough -to push both parties into a wordy war about whether we were cannibals or -not. They took the cicatrices on the Soudanese’s features as proof that -they were maneaters, and maneaters had no business in their country. But -while something like a camp was being formed, though bush was scarce, -and grass was not to be discovered, there came a follower of the -Egyptians, a sinister-looking object; an arrow had pierced his arm, his -head was gashed with an axe, he had been robbed of his clothes and -allowance of cloth at Zanzibar, and his rifle. Two words were only -needed to have amply revenged him. We pocketed it, and many another -insult that day, and the next we marched<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_435" id="page_435"></a>{435}</span> to Ikoma, the residential -district of the chief, and naturally, being the seat of power, it was -four times more populous.</p> - -<p>Our business at Ikoma was very simple. Mr. Mackay had informed us that -Mr. Stokes, the English ivory trader, had a station there, that the -principal chief, Malissa, was his friend, and that at this station Mr. -Stokes had a supply of European provisions—biscuits, butter, ham, -bacon, &c.—that he wished to dispose of. Well, we were ten Europeans in -number, every one of whom was blessed with devouring appetites. We -agreed to call that way and purchase them at any cost, and Mr. Mackay -furnished us with two Zanzibari guides. Therefore, though the Kungu -natives had been dangerously insolent, we thought that at Malissa’s, the -friend of Stokes, we should be asked to overlook the matter, as being -mere noisy ebullitions of a few intractable youths.</p> - -<p>Before us, in the centre of a plain which three or four centuries ago, -perhaps, was covered with the waters of Lake Victoria, there rose what -must have been once a hilly island, but now the soil had been thoroughly -scoured away, and left the frame of the island only in ridges of grey -gneissic rock, and ruined heaps of monoliths and boulders and vast rock -fragments, and under the shadow, and between these in narrow levels, -were grouped a population of about 5000 people; and within sound of -musket-shot, or blare of horn, or ringing cries, were congeries of -hamlets out on the plain round about this natural fortress, and each -hamlet surrounded by its own milk-weed hedge. In the plain west of the -isleted rock-heaps, I counted twenty-three separate herds of cattle, -besides flocks of sheep and goats, and we concluded that Ikoma was -prosperous, and secure in its vast population and its impregnable -rock-piles.</p> - -<p>As we drew near there came scores of sleek and merry youths and girls, -who kept laughing and giggling and romping about us like healthy, -guileless young creatures, enjoying their youth and life. We travelled -up a smooth easy pass flanked by piles of rocks rising to 200 feet above -us, which narrowed somewhat as we approached<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_436" id="page_436"></a>{436}</span> the chief’s village. -Presently a multitude of warriors came forward on the double quick -towards us, making a brave display of feathers, shining spears, and -floating robes, and drew up in front of the column to drive it back. -They were heard shrilly screaming and sputtering their orders to the -guides, who were telling them that we were only a caravan—friends of -Stokes and Malissa; but the madmen drowned every word with storms of -cries, and menaced the guides and men of the advance. I walked up to -ascertain what was the matter, and I became an object to some fellows, -who raced at me with levelled spears. One man seized my rifle; two -Zanzibaris came up to my assistance, and tore the rifle from his hands; -bows were drawn, and spears were lifted; two of our men were wounded, -and in a second we were engaged in clearing the crowd away. In this -close <i>mêlée</i> about ten lives were lost, and a Monangwa was captured. -After this burst of hostility there would be no chance of purchasing -provisions, and as the rocks had already begun to be lined with -musketeers and bowmen, we had to withdraw as quickly as possible from -the pass, and form camp somewhere before we should be overwhelmed.</p> - -<p>We found a pool of water near the end of the loose rock ridges; a huge -monolith or two stood upright like Druids’ stones outside. We completed -the circle with bales and boxes, and grassy huts, and camped to wait the -upshot.</p> - -<p>From our camp we could see the ancient bed of the Lake spreading out for -a distance of many miles. Every half-mile or so there was a large -cluster of hamlets, each separated from the other by hedges of -milk-weed. The plain separating these clusters was common pasture -ground, and had been cropped by hungry herds as low as stone moss. On -our way to the camp a herd of cattle had been captured, but they had -been released; we had a Monangwa in our hands, and we asked him what all -this was about. He could not, or he would not, answer. We clothed him in -fine cloths, and sent him away to tell Malissa that we were white men, -friends of Stokes,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_437" id="page_437"></a>{437}</span> that we had many Wasukuma porters in our caravan, -and that we had no intention of fighting anybody, but of going to the -coast as quickly as possible. The chief was escorted within a quarter of -a mile of Malissa’s village, and released. He did not return, but during -the day there were several efforts made to annoy us, until at 4 <small>P.M.</small>, -from the north, east and south, appeared three separate multitudes, for -a great effort. It was then the machine-gun was prepared.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill-437_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/ill-437_sml.jpg" width="312" height="302" alt="ROCK HILLS, USAMBIRO." -title="ROCK HILLS, USAMBIRO." /></a><br /> -<span class="caption">ROCK HILLS, USAMBIRO.</span> -</p> - -<p>The Wasukuma swayed closer up, but cautiously, and, it appeared to me, -reluctantly. In front of the mob coming from the south were several -skirmishers, who pranced forward to within 300 yards. One of the -skirmishers was dropped, and the machine showered about a hundred and -fifty rounds in their direction.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_438" id="page_438"></a>{438}</span> Not one of the natives was hit, but -the great range and bullet shower was enough. They fled; a company was -sent out to meet the eastern mob, another was sent to threaten the crowd -to the north, and the Wasukuma yielded and finally retired. Only one -native was killed out of this demonstration made by probably 2000 -warriors.</p> - -<p>We had other things to do than fight Wasukuma, and therefore on the 21st -we resumed the coastward march. We had been disappointed in obtaining -those provisions of ham and bacon, and Malissa had lost his gifts of -cloth which we had made ready for him.</p> - -<p>We were not long on the march before the entire population of Urima -seemed to be gathering on our flanks, and at 8 <small>A.M.</small> a dash was made on -the column. There was not much necessity of telling the Egyptians and -their followers to keep close together. Nothing could be better than -their behaviour for our purpose. They were gathered in a close packed -mob. In front of them were two companies, and in rear was the rearguard, -Bonny’s Soudanese, and Shukri Agha’s company. The Wasukuma could make no -impression whatever on the column had they been treble their number, and -yet they seemed to be so sure that in some manner they would be able to -do something. But we continued on our way, pursued on flank and in rear -until noon, when we reached Muanza, on the edge of Jordan’s Nullah, -which was a crooked rift in the old lacustrine deposit forty yards wide -and thirty feet deep, whence water was obtained from pits in the sand.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill-438_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/ill-438_sml.jpg" width="535" height="344" alt="OUR EXPERIENCES IN USUKUMA." -title="OUR EXPERIENCES IN USUKUMA." /></a><br /> -<span class="caption">OUR EXPERIENCES IN USUKUMA.</span> -</p> - -<p>As the natives hovered round us we thought that we should make another -trial to cause them to abate their fierce rancour, and we sent -Poli-Poli, the chief Wasukuma guide, to talk to him. Poli-Poli literally -means, “Go gently, gently.” An hour’s crying out from a distance -succeeded in inducing a Monangwa and four of his men to approach and -enter our camp, and the camp was so absorbed with this arrival and -prospect of a happy termination to the “war.” While we were exchanging -tokens of good will and professions of peace, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_440" id="page_440"></a>{440}</span><a name="page_441" id="page_441"></a><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_439" id="page_439"></a>{439}</span> cutting out some -cloth for them, as an earnest of our intentions, the Wasukuma had been -allowed to approach. The Monangwa, and his friends had left my tent -about five minutes, perfectly satisfied apparently, when I heard about -fifty rifle shots fired in volleys. Running out I found that the enemy -was right among us. One of our men was dying from a spear wound, our -goats were in full flight, being driven away on the run, the bottom of -the nullah was covered with leaping forms. We had a very narrow escape -from serious loss; but seven natives were killed within ten yards of the -camp, the treacherous Monangwa received a bullet in the shoulder and -lost his cloth, and we recovered our goats.</p> - -<p>We marched on the next morning at the usual hour; the villages were -arranged on each side of our track in one continued series, and the -population of S. Nera turned out <i>en masse</i>. But the natives confined -themselves to following us in a dense column stretching for quite two -miles, every now and then firing at us from heavily loaded muskets. For -three hours we continued in this manner, until as we were about leaving -Nera, and entering Mamara, they uttered a series of war-cries, and made -another effort. Dropping our loads we raced towards them, and in a -minute’s time they were on the full trot in retreat. We lifted our loads -and resumed our journey; but the natives presently re-collected, and -followed us on the flanks as far as Seké—a fatiguing march of six -hours.</p> - -<p>On the 23rd we proceeded from N. Seké to Seke Kwikuru, or Seke the -capital, vast crowds hanging on our flanks as before. Though we knew -that trifling mercies, such as we were able to show, seldom made any -impression on tribes quivering under extraordinary excitement and rage -for battle, nevertheless we abstained from needlessly augmenting this -causeless madness against us, and only halted a few minutes to repel a -rush.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />Sept. 22.<br />Seké.</div> - -<p>We were all in sad want of water and rest. Our cattle and riding animals -had not been watered for two<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_442" id="page_442"></a>{442}</span> days, and at Seké the water was brackish -and scarce. The sun was at its hottest. Our faces were baked and -cracking. The grass was so short that the cattle were feeding upon the -roots to obtain subsistence.</p> - -<p>The next day was a halt. The natives appeared to within 800 yards of our -camp; but after a few shots they dispersed, and we were left to enjoy -the first rest gained after seven days’ continuous travel and fighting.</p> - -<p>Entering Sinyanga on the 25th, we were welcomed with “lu-lu-lus” by the -women, and as they had heard all about our “little war” with Usukuma, -every elder we met expressed a hope that we had cleared the wicked -people out, for they were always a cursed lot, bothering travellers and -strangers.</p> - -<p>As we marched from one petty district to another, each independent from -the other, governed by its own chief and council of elders, exclusive -from its own peculiar customs, habits, or passion, varying differently -from the other according to the age, intelligence, and disposition of -the chief, our duties and rule of conduct varied. We moved through petty -spheres, wherein our duties varied according to the demands made upon -us. Here was the small district of Sinyanga with a population not -exceeding 2000. The chief and his headmen were as proud of their little -state as any monarch and his senate might be of an empire. The chief was -conscious of weakness, and that imprudent aggressiveness would prove -speedy ruin; but he exacted his dues all the same. We paid them freely -and with kindly words. The chief reciprocated the kindness, returned a -gift to mark his pleasure, then his people flocked to the camp to -exchange their grain and produce for cloth and beads, during which many -a friendship and brotherly act was formed between the natives and our -men.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />Sept. 25.<br />Sinyanga.</div> - -<p>In Urima and Nera again, even on its frontiers, they pounced down on us -like wolves, with war-cries and insulting by-plays. Our flanks were -thronged with hooting warriors and jeering youths and fleering girls; -they annoyed us by gestures, wounded our sense of hearing by shrill -insolent screams and savage taunts.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_443" id="page_443"></a>{443}</span> All this may be borne with -equanimity. Words do not hurt, but it makes us circumspect and reticent. -When we arrive in camp the mobs are greater; a knot of lusty long-legged -youths hang about the tents, flourish their weapons, blow their shrill -war-flutes, and artfully pursue a cunning system of annoyance. All this -is due to the belief that our forbearance means fear. They look around -and see their numbers fourfold more than our own. They whisper to one -another like village louts and bullies, “What a pity that we can’t kick -up a row. Ah, if there was, I would soon make myself master of that -cloth, or that gun, or the things in those boxes, &c., &c.” The chief is -carried away by this consuming desire, and relying upon the assurances -that it would be an easy matter to make a row and find an excuse, he -commits himself to some imprudent scheme, and, when too late, mourns the -failure but not the event. They cannot plead ignorance as the new tribes -can. Fifteen years ago I travelled through Usukuma, paying no more than -ten or twelve cloths to any chief, and receiving a good ox or a couple -of goats in return. Since that time, however, missionary after -missionary, both English and French, and Arab caravans have made Usukuma -a highway to the Victoria Lake. The tributes have been raised by the -chief to 300 doti—£90 per petty district. To three petty districts the -French missionaries were compelled to pay 900 doti of cloth—£270. £270 -sterling on three days’ journey! These cloths will purchase guns which -will make them still more formidable to missionaries, and the result -will be in a few years that a small tribal chief will demand every scrap -of cloth in the caravan, and will halt it until it is paid, as Usui -stopped a caravan of 150 guns.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />Sept. 25.<br />Sinyanga.</div> - -<p>Khambi Mbya—a nickname of an Arab who camped in Nera two years ago—was -homeward bound from Uganda with his ivory. The tribute had been paid. A -little personal dispute followed soon after between a woman of the camp, -and a herdsman at a pool, as to whether the woman should take water -first, or the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_444" id="page_444"></a>{444}</span> cattle. The herdsman raised the war-cry, which resulted -in the massacre of every man, woman, and child in the caravan.</p> - -<p>Messrs. Ashe and Walker, C.M.S. missionaries, were seized, I am told, by -one of these petty chiefs, and detained until they were ransomed by -Mackay. Mr. Stokes, who is compelled by his business of trading in -ivory, like many an Arab trader before him, to be patient and -long-suffering, must have experienced many unhappy moments when he saw -his carriers dropping their bales and flying before a noisy mob of -bullies. The French missionaries have abandoned Usambiro Station, and -taken their residence in Bukumbi. Mr. Mackay has left Msalala, and built -a station at Makolo’s. If these natives possessed any sense, or could -have been touched by shame after being so generously treated and -honoured by these missionaries, they would not drive them away by -extortion and oppression.</p> - -<p>On the 4th of October we arrived at Stokes’ boma, in the country of his -friend Mittinginya. The king’s capital lies about three-fourths of a -mile to the south-east, and is a square enclosure of wattle and mud. -Bullets might be rained against the walls for weeks without disastrous -effects to those within, and provided the defenders had fuel, food, and -water sufficient, and were properly vigilant, these fort-like structures -would be impregnable except against cannon. The district of Usongo, of -which Mittinginya is chief, is studded pretty thickly with these -structures, and excepting the stubborn old baobab no bush or plant -obstructs the view between each tembé.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889<br />Oct. 4.<br />Usongo.</div> - -<p>The chief has the faculty of getting embroiled with his neighbours, or -his neighbours must be unusually quarrelsome, or they mutually suffer -from an innate restlessness which drives them one against the other with -angry muskets. To the north is a chief called Simba, to the west he has -the people of Uyogu, behind these he has Kapera and his allies the -Watuta or Wangoni,—Equatorial Zulus; to the south the predatory -Wataturu, descendants of Somalis; to the north-east<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_445" id="page_445"></a>{445}</span> Wandui; and we -accidentally stumbled into this hornet’s nest of angry tribes, led to do -it by reports of Mittinginya’s good nature, and in the hope that we -should be able to obtain a few carriers for our ever-wailing Egyptians.</p> - -<p>To emphasize the visible unrest here, the chief has invited a horde of -wild Masai from the district of Lyteri, west of Kilima-Njaro, to assist -him in his ambitious projects. The Masai had already distinguished -themselves against the Watuta-Zulus; the Wanduis had become as -dumb-dogs. Seeing quiet strangers owning donkeys, the Masai quietly made -themselves masters of four, which however they were compelled to return, -and after eight days’ halt we were able to leave Stokes’s friend with -his hornets humming round him, with twenty fresh carriers to carry the -ulcerous Egyptians without being implicated in any feud.</p> - -<p>On the 17th we entered Ikungu, where we were overtaken by two French -missionaries, Pères Girault and Schintze,<a name="FNanchor_35_35" id="FNanchor_35_35"></a><a href="#Footnote_35_35" class="fnanchor">[35]</a> who were invalids—it was -said, homeward bound and were desirous of availing themselves of our -escort to the sea.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />Oct. 17.<br />Ikungu.</div> - -<p>Around the milk-weed hedges that surrounded the chief’s village were -over a hundred human skulls, while innumerable fragments strewed the -vicinity. Inquiring what calamity had occurred, I was told they were the -remains of a tribe of Wanyaturu, over 400 strong, who had fled to Ikungu -from Ituru, in the hope of saving themselves from famine. What articles -they had<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_446" id="page_446"></a>{446}</span> brought with them were soon sold for food which they consumed, -and then they sold their children and their wives, and when they had -nothing left they died. The children were of mulatto colour, and very -superior to the sable urchins of Unyamwezi.</p> - -<p>We met a caravan from Zanzibar at this place belonging to Tippu-Tib, and -the Manyuema reported that the coast war between the Germans and Coast -Arabs was still proceeding, but that the Germans had commenced to be -victorious.</p> - -<p>On the 26th we entered Muhalala, and by the 8th of November we had -passed through Ugogo. There is no country in Africa that has excited -greater interest in me than this. It is a ferment of trouble and -distraction, and a vermin of petty annoyances beset the travellers from -day to day while in it. No natives know so well how to aggrieve and be -unpleasant to travellers. One would think there was a school somewhere -in Ugogo to teach low cunning and vicious malice to the chiefs, who are -masters in foxy-craft. Nineteen years ago I looked at this land and -people with desiring eyes. I saw in it a field worth some effort to -reclaim. In six months I felt sure Ugogo could be made lovely and -orderly, a blessing to the inhabitants and to strangers, without any -very great expense or trouble; it would become a pleasant highway of -human intercourse with far-away peoples, productive of wealth to the -natives, and comfort to caravans. I learned on arrival in Ugogo that I -was for ever debarred from the hope. It is to be the destiny of the -Germans to carry out this work, and I envy them. It is the worst news of -all that I shall never be able to drain this cesspool of iniquitous -passion, and extinguish the insolence of Wagogo chiefs, and make the -land clean, healthy, and even beautiful of view. While my best wishes -will accompany German efforts, my mind is clouded with a doubt that it -ever will be that fair land of rest and welcome I had dreamed of making -it.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />Oct. 26.<br />Ugogo.</div> - -<p>Two days beyond Ugogo we entered the German Station of Mpwapwa, and were -welcomed by Lieutenant<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_447" id="page_447"></a>{447}</span> Rochus Schmidt, who had arrived about a month -previous, escorted by Major Wissman, who was said to be the Imperial -Commissary of German East Africa. He had already erected a stone -breastwork around his little camp, which contained 100 Zulus, on a -commanding but windy spot that must needs be fatal to many a white -officer whose misfortune it may be to be appointed Military Commandant -of Mpwapwa.</p> - -<p>The Rev. Mr. Price paid us a visit, and among other benefits resulting -from his presence we obtained a year’s issue of the ‘Weekly Times.’ In -turning over the pages of the voluminous history of the past year, I was -impressed by nothing more than by the smoothness and easy groove in -which events were running, without jar or sensible vibration. The hum of -their travel seemed to be like that which we hear on a drowsy summer’s -day at a country house in England, remote from the roll of street -traffic and the thundering rush of express trains. A distant murmuring -sound of railway waggons gliding over a pair of rails impresses the dull -ear, amid the quiet and repose, that the world is spinning safely along -without rack or tear. England was still at anchor amidst the silver -seas; the Empire was where it ought to be; Europe was amusing herself -with peaceful drill, and America was gathering her splendid harvests, -and filling the Treasury cellars with gold ingots and silver bricks.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />Oct. 26.<br />Ugogo.</div> - -<p>On the 13th, accompanied by Lieutenant Schmidt, the Expedition, about -700 strong, moved from Mpwapwa towards the coast, and five days later -exchanged the parched aspect of the thorny wilderness of the interior -for one that was fragrant with the perfume of lilies, and pleasant with -the verdure of spring. After a two hours’ march from Muini Usagara, we -defiled out of the Mukondokwa Valley, and emerged into the plain of the -Makata, the sight of which, with its green grass and pleasant shady -trees and many groups of villages, after four months of droughty views, -roused the enthusiasm of each of our officers. A Père from the French -Mission near Ferahani, established near the base of the mountains,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_448" id="page_448"></a>{448}</span> -brought us a few welcome articles with their compliments and good -wishes.</p> - -<p>At Vianzi, two marches later, supplies reached us from Major Wissman. -They consisted of such assortments of provisions that only an explorer -of experience would have known would be most appreciated, and in such -prodigal abundance that our camp tables hence to the coast were loaded -with luxuries.</p> - -<p>On the 23rd we arrived at Simbamwenni, which is a town surrounded with a -mud wall enclosing about 400 conical houses. During the next day’s halt -Lieut. Schmidt escorted Emin Pasha to see the good Pères of the French -Mission of San Esprit, who have commenced to work at Morogoro with the -same earnest thoroughness that has made their establishment at Bagamoyo -so famous. They have planted oranges, mangoes, plantains, vanilla, -cinnamon and coffee, and almost all fruits known in tropical lands, and -have led a clear and bounteous stream of water through their little -estate.</p> - -<p>Lieutenant Schmidt informed me that he was somewhat taken aback at the -fact that the Fathers, in their intense devotion to their own religious -duties, were unacquainted with the repute of his illustrious companion. -A Père had asked him in a whisper, after eyeing the Pasha in wonder, -“Can he speak anything but Arabic?” and was astounded when he heard, -with that warmth so characteristic of young straightforward German -officers, that he could not only speak Arabic, but could speak French, -English, German, Turkish, Italian and Greek, with easy fluency, and that -he was German by birth.</p> - -<p>“Indeed! And is his expedition commercial, scientific, or military?”</p> - -<p>Then Lieutenant Schmidt, all amazed at the extraordinary seclusion of -the pious recluse, had to relate the whole story, and for the first time -he knew what business had brought me on my third visit to this region.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />Nov. 24.<br />Simbawenni.</div> - -<p>The Pasha, who enjoyed the relation of the story, was asked to be -comforted, and for his solace I related how<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_449" id="page_449"></a>{449}</span> I had been introduced by a -Canon of Westminster Abbey to a well-known bishop—as one who had done -some good work on the Congo. The bishop hesitated a minute, and then -said blandly, “Ah, indeed, how very interesting! But pray tell me where -is the Congo.” But sometimes laymen were found to be as ignorant of -Africa as bishops, as for instance the British Cabinet Minister, who, -receiving a commercial deputation from Manchester, relating to some -grievances on the Niger, calmly pointed the speaker to a map of Africa, -and asked him to be good enough to show the river in which the great -city of Manchester appeared to be so interested.</p> - -<p>On the 27th we arrived at Ungerengeri, and for the first time we -received a few letters. Never had any such fatality attended mails in -Africa as had attended ours. Three several times I had requested our -friends to despatch our letters to Msalala, south end of Lake Victoria, -bearing legibly a superscription to the effect that they were “to be -left until called for.” Bushels of mails had been sent, and every packet -but one, containing three letters, had been lost in Unyoro, Uganda, and -Bushiri, an opponent of Major Wissman, had captured others.</p> - -<p>Among many newspaper clippings received, was one which was a tissue of -perverted truths. It appeared to have been sent from Zanzibar by a -native clerk in a telegram. It read as follows:</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="r"> -Zanzibar, June 12th, 1889.<br /> -</p> - -<p>“Stanley is reported to have arrived in Ururi, where he rested a -few days. He returned to Lake Victoria, leaving behind him -fifty-six sick men and forty-four rifles. Many of the sick had -died. Shortly after Mitchell arrived and took away the rifles. -Stanley was reported to have suffered serious losses from sickness -and want of food. Later Stanley came himself. Emin Pasha is -reported to be in Unyara, north-east of Lake Victoria, fifteen -days’ march. Stanley having picked up all the men who were left, -returned to Emin after having given a letter to the writer to -convey to the Agent-General of the Company.”</p></div> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />Nov. 27.<br />Ungerengeri.</div> - -<p>The précis of the intelligence received having been doctored by a writer -at Zanzibar, rendered the message still more unintelligible. The -intelligence was received<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_450" id="page_450"></a>{450}</span> at Zanzibar by an agent of the ivory raider, -Ugarrowwa, and was intended to read thus:</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>“Stanley has arrived on the Ituri (River). He proceeded on his way -to Lake Albert after leaving fifty-six sick men and forty-four -rifles with me. Most of these sick men died a short time -afterwards.</p> - -<p>“Mazinga (Lieut. Stairs) came here and took away the rifles. I was -informed that Stanley suffered serious losses from sickness and -famine. Finally Stanley came here in person.</p> - -<p>“Emin Pasha is reported to be in Unyoro, north-east, a -fifteen-days’ march from here (Ugarrowwa’s Station). Stanley having -picked up all the men who were left (of the rear column), returned -to Emin, having given a letter to me to give the Consul-General. -(Ugarrowwa was anxious to obtain a letter of introduction to the -Consul, he being known at Zanzibar as Uledi Balyuz, or the Consul’s -Uledi, in contradistinction to other Uledis, who are as common as -Smiths in England.”)</p></div> - -<p>What with atrocities on the Aruwimi; Stanley’s death by seventeen -arrows; communications from an officer of the Congo Free State; letters -from missionaries and engineers; Osman Digna’s report of the capture of -Emin Pasha and another white man; invasions of the Soudan by a white -Pasha, &c., there is a good reason why English editors should be not a -little perplexed. However, “All is well that ends well.”</p> - -<p>While halting at Msua, the Baron von Gravenreuth arrived, with 100 -soldiers. The Baron is a dashing soldier, fond of the excitement of -battle-strife, and in his attacks on the zeribas of the coast Arabs has -displayed considerable skill. It was most amusing to hear him remind me -how he had once applied to me for advice respecting equipment and -conduct in Africa, and that I had paternally advised him to read ‘The -Congo and the Founding of its Free State,’ “an advice—I may tell you -now—I followed, and I am glad of it.”</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />Nov. 28.<br />Msua.</div> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill-450_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/ill-450_sml.jpg" width="520" height="355" alt="BANQUET AT MSUA." -title="BANQUET AT MSUA." /></a><br /> -<span class="caption">BANQUET AT MSUA.</span> -</p> - -<p>Soon after appeared two correspondents of American newspapers, one of -whom was Mr. Thomas Stevens, and the other Mr. Edmund Vizetelly, -representing the ‘New York Herald.’ The last-named gentleman brought us -quite a number of well-selected articles for personal comfort and some -provisions, by request of Mr. James Gordon Bennett, the proprietor of -the Journal in whose service I had undertaken two previous expeditions -into Africa, and had accompanied Sir Robert Napier into<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_452" id="page_452"></a>{452}</span><a name="page_453" id="page_453"></a><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_451" id="page_451"></a>{451}</span> Abyssinia in -1867 and 1868, and Sir Garnet Wolseley into Ashantee in 1873 and 1874.</p> - -<p>Two marches from Msua an expedition from the Imperial British East -African Company arrived in our camp, conveying for our use 170 -porter-loads of rice, and twenty-five cases of European provisions, -clothing and boots, so that each person in the column received -twenty-two pounds of rice, besides rations of salt, sugar, jams and -biscuits.</p> - -<p>The evening of December 3rd, as we were conversing in the moonlight, the -sound of a cannon was heard. It was the evening gun at Zanzibar, and the -Zanzibaris set up ear-piercing cries of joy at that which announced to -them that the long journey across the Continent was drawing near its -close, and the Egyptians and their followers echoed the shouts as the -conviction dawned on them that within the next twenty-four hours they -should see the ocean, on which with all comfort and leisure they would -be borne to the land of Egypt and to their future homes.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />Dec. 4.<br />Bagamoyo.</div> - -<p>On arriving at the ferry of the Kingani River, Major Wissman came across -to meet us, and for the first time I had the honour of being introduced -to a colleague who had first distinguished himself, at the headquarters -of the Kasai River, in the service of the International Association, -while I was building stations along the main river. On reaching the -right bank of the Kingani we found some horses saddled, and turning over -the command of the column to Lieut. Stairs, Emin Pasha and myself were -conducted by Major Wissman and Lieut. Schmidt to Bagamoyo. Within the -coast-town we found the streets decorated handsomely with palm branches, -and received the congratulations of Banian and Hindu citizens, and of -many a brave German officer who had shared the fatigues and dangers of -the arduous campaign, which Wissman was prosecuting with such well -deserved success, against the Arab malcontents of German East Africa. -Presently rounding a corner of the street we came in view of the battery -square in front of Wissman’s headquarters, and on our left, close<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_454" id="page_454"></a>{454}</span> at -hand, was the softly undulating Indian Sea, one great expanse of -purified blue. “There, Pasha,” I said. “We are at home!”</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill-454a_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/ill-454a_sml.jpg" width="321" height="449" alt="HOUSE AND BALCONY FROM WHICH EMIN FELL." -title="HOUSE AND BALCONY FROM WHICH EMIN FELL." /></a><br /> -<span class="caption">HOUSE AND BALCONY FROM WHICH EMIN FELL.</span> -</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill-454b_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/ill-454b_sml.jpg" width="583" height="376" alt="UNDER THE PALMS AT BAGAMOYO." -title="UNDER THE PALMS AT BAGAMOYO." /></a><br /> -<span class="caption">UNDER THE PALMS AT BAGAMOYO.</span> -</p> - -<p>“Yes, thank God,” he replied. At the same time, the battery thundered -the salute in his honour, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_456" id="page_456"></a>{456}</span><a name="page_457" id="page_457"></a><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_455" id="page_455"></a>{455}</span> announced to the war-ships at anchor -that Emin, the Governor of Equatoria, had arrived at Bagamoyo.</p> - -<p>We dismounted at the door of the mess-house of the German officers, and -were conducted upstairs to a long and broad verandah about forty-five by -twenty-five feet, which had been converted into a palmy bower, gaily -decorated with palm branches and German flags. Several round tables were -spread, and on a wide buffet was arranged a sumptuous lunch, of which -our appetites enabled us to partake fearlessly; but dubious of the -effects of fine champagne after such long absence, I diluted it largely -with Sauerbrunn water. The Pasha was never gayer than on this afternoon, -when surrounded by his friends and countrymen he replied to their -thousand eager questions respecting the life he had endured during his -long exile in Africa.</p> - -<p>At four o’clock the column filed in, making a brave show. The people -were conducted to huts ready constructed near the beach, and as the -carriers dropped their loads and the long train of hammocks deposited -their grievous burdens of sick men and women, and poor children for the -last time on the ground, they, like myself, must have felt profound -relief and understood to the full what this arrival by the shore of the -sea meant.</p> - -<p>At 7.30 <small>P.M.</small> the banquet was to take place. As we mounted the stairs to -the broad verandah, the Pasha was met, having just left the lunch table -to dress for dinner. We assembled in the palmy bower, thirty-four -persons all told—English Vice-Consul, Mr. Churchill, German Consul, and -Italian Consul, Captain Brackenbury, of H.M.S. <i>Turquoise</i>, and -Commander T. Mackenzie Fraser, of H.M.S. <i>Somali</i>; the Consular Judge, -Captains Foss and Hirschberg, of the German warships <i>Sperber</i> and -<i>Schwalbe</i>, Officers of the Imperial Commissary’s Staff, Emin Pasha, -Captain Casati, Captain Nelson, Lieutenant Stairs, Surgeon Parke, Mr. -Jephson, Mr. Bonny, Pères Etienne and Schmidt of the Bagamoyo Mission, -Pères Girault and Schinze of the Algerian Mission, Officers of the -German East Africa Co., Baron St. Paul Illaire, and others; Mr.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_458" id="page_458"></a>{458}</span> W. H. -W. Nicoll of the Imperial British East Africa, Captain of the -Commissary’s Flotilla, &c. &c. The band of the <i>Schwalbe</i> was in -attendance to give <i>éclat</i> to what was a very superb affair for -Bagamoyo.</p> - -<p>The guests having assembled, Major Wissman led the way to the long -banqueting-room, into which the central room of the house had been -converted on the occasion. While we were feasting within, the -Zanzibaris—tireless creatures—were celebrating the close of a -troublous period in the street just below the verandah, with animal -energy vented in active dance and hearty chorus. The banquet included -the usual number of dishes. I am utterly powerless to describe it. To me -it appeared wonderful for Bagamoyo. From extreme sensitive delicacy I -omitted to inquire of Wissman where he obtained his chef, and how it all -was managed. Without a particle of exaggeration the dinner was a -triumph. The wines were choice and well selected and iced, and had it -not been for the Sauerbrunn close at hand in unstinted quantity, which -rendered them innocuous by liberal dilution, I should soon have been -incompetent to speak of their merits. I had almost forgotten the -ceremony which follows banquets; but as the time drew near 9 o’clock, -and the music was hushed and Major Wissman rose to his feet, a -presentiment possessed me, that with benevolent tolerance of any -untowardness manifest during our late mission, he aimed at proposing to -the company that they should join him in drinking, to the good healths -of the guests Emin Pasha, Captain Casati, Mr. Stanley and the officers -of the Expedition which had concluded its labours by its arrival in the -port of German East Africa that day. As I supposed, so the gallant Major -spoke, in well-measured phrases, with genuine kindness and incomparable -cordiality; and the company rose to their feet to emphasize the -sentiments with hearty hurrahs.</p> - -<p>The principles of my reply were first, that I was unaware that Emin -Pasha was a German when I offered my services to carry relief to him; -that our thoughts were mainly of a brave Governor in difficulties,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_459" id="page_459"></a>{459}</span> -guarding his province with a tenacity, courage and wisdom, against the -assaults of ferocious fanatics who had already eradicated every vestige -of civilization from the Soudan. Secondly, that as it had been proved by -former expeditions that success was only gained by hearty good will, -unwearied effort, and uttermost striving, my companions and myself, like -men animated with one mind, had devoted ungrudgingly every fibre, and -all our strength, morally and physically, to accomplish the purpose for -which we set out. And thirdly, that as the world educated men to become -indifferent to its praise or censure, that as neither perfection nor -devotion ensured its favour, as misfortune insured its contempt, success -its envy or hate, and that as an individual might be won by sacrifice, -but that no individual possessed merit or could command fortune enough -to win the admiration of all—the safest plan was to seek the approval -of one’s conscience; and fourthly, that though we had but proposed, it -was God who had disposed events as He saw fit. “Emin is here, Casati is -here. I and my friends are all here; wherefore we confess that we have a -perfect and wholesome joy in knowing that, for a season at least, the -daily march and its fatigues are at an end.”</p> - -<p>The Pasha’s speech, delivered with finished elocution,—clear, distinct, -and grammatical—and a deep, resonant voice, took the company with an -agreeable surprise, and was mainly an outpouring of gratitude to the -generous English people who had thought of him, to his German countrymen -for their kind reception of him, and to His Imperial Majesty Wilhelm II. -for his gracious message of welcome and congratulation.</p> - -<p>An effusive gladness pervaded the company. If there were several whose -hearts overflowed with undisguised pleasure at the thought that a period -of restfulness was to begin with the morning’s sun—others rejoiced from -a pure and generous sympathy. But the Pasha was supremely gay and happy. -He was seen wandering from one end of the table to the other, now -bending over Père Etienne; then exchanging innocent<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_460" id="page_460"></a>{460}</span> gaiety with Surgeon -Parke, and many others; while I was absorbed in listening to Wissman’s -oral account of the events of the East Coast War. Presently Sali, my -boy-steward, suddenly whispered in my ear that the Pasha had fallen -down, which I took to mean “stumbled over a chair,” but perceiving that -I did not accept it as a serious incident, he added, “he has fallen over -the verandah wall into the street and is dangerously hurt.”</p> - -<p>The banquet was forgotten. Sali led me down the stairs to the street, -and at a spot removed about twenty feet from the place where he had -fallen there were two little pools of blood. The accident seems to have -occurred within fifteen minutes after the delivery of his speech, and -some minutes must have elapsed before I was informed, for the Pasha had -been dragged away, and water had been poured over the head of the -unconscious man, and then he had been borne to the German Hospital, and -the native dance and song had continued undisturbed.</p> - -<p>Hastening after my guide, with my mind oppressed by this sudden -transition from gaiety to gloom, from joy to grief, from the upright -figure glowing with pleasure, and radiant with joy to the silent form on -the verge of the grave, I reached the hospital, and at the door met a -German officer who with uplifted hands revealed the impressions gathered -from his view of the unfortunate man. Guided upstairs, I was shown to a -bed surrounded by an anxious-looking group. On obtaining a view, I saw -the Pasha’s form half undressed extended on the bed, wet bandages passed -over the right side of the head and right eye. A corner of the wetted -lint was lifted up, and I saw that the right eye was closed by a great -lump formed by swollen tissues, and discovered that the lint was crimson -with blood oozing from the ear. No one seemed to be able to give an -exact account of how the accident happened, but the general impression -seemed to be that the Pasha, who was half-blind, and had been so for the -last two years, had moved somewhat too briskly<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_461" id="page_461"></a>{461}</span> towards the verandah, or -balcony wall of that “palmy bower” wherein we had lunched, to look at -the happy natives dancing in the moonlight, and misjudging its height, -had leaned over suddenly and too far, and before he had recovered his -balance had toppled on to the zinc shed, over the sidewalk and into the -street, a fall of about fourteen feet from the edge of the shed. Lieut. -Rochus Schmidt had instantly been informed, and hurrying into the -street, found the Pasha unconscious, and had attempted to rouse him by -pouring cold water over his head, and failing in this had him conveyed -to the hospital.</p> - -<p>Next morning Surgeon Parke reported to me that the Pasha had remained -completely unconscious until near dawn, and that though the accident was -undoubtedly a serious one, it need not be considered dangerous, as he -had examined him, and could discover no fracture of the skull, the blood -from the ear having issued from injured arteries, and that provided no -inflammation supervened he might be easily removed within ten days. The -Pasha was much bruised on his right side and back, and was in a most -painful condition.</p> - -<p>Two German surgeons from the war-ships, however, announced that after a -careful examination they had come to the conclusion that the Pasha’s -condition was most dangerous, that there was an unmistakable fracture -near the base of the skull, and that only 20 per cent. of such cases -ever recovered.</p> - -<p>There was not one European at Bagamoyo but felt extremely grieved at the -sad event that had wrecked the general joy. The feeling was much deeper -than soldiers will permit themselves to manifest. Outwardly there was no -manifestation; inwardly men were shocked that his first day’s greeting -among his countrymen and friends should have proved so disastrous to him -after fourteen years’ absence from them. What the Emir Karamallah and -his fanatics, a hundred barbarous negro tribes, conspirators, and rebel -soldiery, and fourteen years of Equatorial heat had failed to effect, an -innocent hospitality had nearly succeeded in doing. At<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_462" id="page_462"></a>{462}</span> the very moment -he might well have said, Soul, enjoy thyself! behold, the shadow of the -grave is thrust across their vision. This extremely dismal prospect and -immediate blighting of joy made men chary of speech, and solemnly wonder -at the mishap.</p> - -<p>On the 6th of December our people were embarked on board H.M.S. <i>Somali</i> -and three of Major Wissmann’s steamers, and at 9 <small>A.M.</small> a fleet, -consisting of H.M.S. <i>Turquoise</i>, Capt. Brackenbury, with Lieut. Stairs, -Major Wissmann, Messrs. Jephson and Bonny on board, the <i>Sperber</i>, Capt. -Foss, with myself, Capt. Nelson, and four Algerian Perês, the -<i>Schwalbe</i>, Capt. Hirschberg, H.M.S. <i>Somali</i>, Commander Fraser, and -three vessels of Wissmann’s steam flotilla, after lifting anchor, formed -line, and proceeded towards the island of Zanzibar. The sea a clear -blue, paling into a diluted green over reefs which flanked the course, -was lovely, and as the gentle wind met us, we respired deep draughts of -air free from taint and miasma. Oh! the deep relief I felt that this was -the end of that continual rising in the morning with a hundred moaning -and despairing invalids wailing their helplessness and imploring for -help, of those daily scenes of disease, suffering, and unmitigable -misery, and of the diurnal torture to which the long-enduring caravan -had been subjected during what seemed now to have been an age of hideous -troubles far beyond the range of anything we had anticipated when we so -lightheartedly accepted the mission of relieving the Governor of -Equatoria.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1889.<br />Dec. 6.<br />Zanzibar.</div> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill-462_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/ill-462_sml.jpg" width="344" height="495" alt="THE RELIEF EXPEDITION RETURNING TO ZANZIBAR." -title="THE RELIEF EXPEDITION RETURNING TO ZANZIBAR." /></a><br /> -<span class="caption">THE RELIEF EXPEDITION RETURNING TO ZANZIBAR.</span> -</p> - -<p>Now let me for a moment speak proudly. Knowing what my companions and I -know, we have this certain satisfaction, that let envy, malice, and -jealousy provoke men to say what they will, the acutest -cross-examination of witnesses in a court of justice would elicit -nothing more, so far as we are concerned, than a fuller recognition and -higher appreciation of the sacrifice and earnestness of the endeavour -which we freely and gratuitously gave to assist Emin Pasha and Captain -Casati, and their few hundreds of followers. Money time, years, -strength, health, life, anything and every<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_464" id="page_464"></a>{464}</span><a name="page_465" id="page_465"></a><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_463" id="page_463"></a>{463}</span>thing—freely, kindly, and -devotedly—without even giving one thought to a reward, which, whatever -its character might be, would be utterly inadequate as compensation. To -one like me, what are banquets? A crust of bread, a chop, and a cup of -tea, is a feast to one who, for the best part of twenty-three years, has -had the satisfaction of eating a shilling’s worth of food a day. -Receptions! they are the very honours I would wish to fly from, as I -profess myself slow of speech, and Nature has not fitted me with a -disposition to enjoy them. Medals! I cannot wear them; the pleasure of -looking at them is even denied me by my continual absence. What then? -Nothing. No honour or reward, however great, can be equal to that subtle -satisfaction that a man feels when he can point to his work and say, -“See, now, the task I promised you to perform with all loyalty and -honesty, with might and main, to the utmost of my ability, and God -willing, is to-day finished.” Say, is it well and truly done? And when -the employer shall confess that “it is well and done,” can there be any -recompense higher than that to one’s inward self?</p> - -<p>In the morning I had paid a visit to Emin Pasha. He was in great trouble -and pain. “Well, Pasha,” I said. “I hope you don’t mean to admit the -possibility that you are to die here, do you?” “Oh! no. I am not so bad -as that,” and he shook his head.</p> - -<p>“By what I have seen, Pasha, I am entirely of same opinion. A person -with a fractured head could not move his head after that manner.<a name="FNanchor_36_36" id="FNanchor_36_36"></a><a href="#Footnote_36_36" class="fnanchor">[36]</a> -Good-bye. Dr. Parke will remain with you until dismissed by you, and I -hope to hear good news from him daily.” We shook hands and I withdrew.</p> - -<p>It may be curious, but it is true. Emin Pasha, who breathed a -cosmopolitan spirit while he was in the Interior, and who professed -broad views, became different in a few days. Only one day before we -reached<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_466" id="page_466"></a>{466}</span> Bagamoyo I had said to him, “Within a short time, Pasha, you -will be among your countrymen; but while you glow with pride and -pleasure at being once more amongst them, do not forget that they were -English people who first heard your cries in the days of gloom; that it -was English money which enabled these young English gentlemen to rescue -you from Khartoum.”</p> - -<p>“Never; have no fear of that,” replied the Pasha.</p> - -<p>Dr. Parke bore up, I am told, against much unpleasantness. But finally, -falling ill himself, to the peril of his life he was conveyed to the -French hospital in Zanzibar, where he lay as hopeless a case almost as -Emin Pasha immediately after his accident. Happily he recovered from the -severe illness that he had incurred while watching at the Pasha’s -bedside.</p> - -<p>The reports were more and more unsatisfactory from Bagamoyo, and finally -I despatched my boy-steward Sali, who returned from his visit to the -Pasha protesting that he had been threatened with a short shrift if he -ever visited Bagamoyo again; and never message or note did I receive -from Emin, the late Governor of Equatoria.</p> - -<p>While writing this concluding chapter there appeared the announcement -that Emin Pasha had entered the service of the German Government in East -Africa. It was the conviction that he would do this that had caused me -to remind him on the 4th of December, that it was English money which -had enabled our Expedition to proceed to his relief and rescue. That he -has ultimately elected to serve Germany in preference to England appears -perfectly natural, and yet the mere announcement surprised a great many -of his warmest and most disinterested friends, among whom we may number -ourselves.</p> - -<p>For among the copies of letters relating to Emin Pasha, and the objects -of our Expedition supplied to me by the British Foreign Office, was a -copy of one purporting to have been written by Emin himself to Sir John -Kirk, offering to surrender his province to England before even he had -obtained authority from the Khedive to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_467" id="page_467"></a>{467}</span> part with it. The appearance of -this letter in print vexed him greatly, as it seemed to accuse him of -seeking to betray the interests of the Government he was supposed to -have served so faithfully. Instead, however, of meeting with an agent of -England, empowered to treat with him for the delivery of the province to -the British Government, and to appoint him as the Governor of the -Province under British auspices, he was informed that the Egyptian -Government, acting under the advice of the British representative at -Cairo, had only availed themselves of our Expedition to convey to him -their wish that he would retire from Equatoria with such troops as were -willing to accompany him, failing which he was to be left to stay in the -land on his own responsibility. Those who are interested in motives will -not find it difficult, therefore, to understand the apparent hesitation -and indecision that he seemed to labour under when questioned by me as -to his intentions. For nothing could have been more unexpected and -unwelcome than the official letters from the Khedive and Nubar Pasha -which declared their resolve to abandon the province, except the -absolute silence of British officials, or British philanthropists, or -commercial companies, respecting the future of the country wherein he -had spent so many years of his life in contentment, if not in peace. In -lieu of what he had expected, I had only the offer of the King of the -Belgians to make to him, to which were attached certain conditions, that -appeared to him to render the offer of no value. He could not guarantee -a revenue—possibly because he knew better than any one else that there -was neither government nor province, and that, therefore, revenue could -not be collected. It was then I proposed to him, solely on my own -responsibility, that he should take service with the British East -African Association, because the copy of his letter to Sir John Kirk -informed me that it approached nearer to his own proposition than the -other. As I could not guarantee the engagement without authority, and -could only promise that I would do my utmost to realise my ideas, I -could but extract<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_468" id="page_468"></a>{468}</span> a declaration of his preference that the second offer -was more congenial to him than retreat to Egypt, or service with the -Congo State. Yet, as we know, he could definitely accept neither, -inasmuch as he did not know whether his rebellious officers would -consent to depart from the province, even as far as the Victoria Nyanza. -As my mission to Emin was solely to convey ammunition to him, or to -assist him in any way desirable and convenient to him, I was as free to -carry offers to him from Italy, Germany, Russia, Portugal, or Greece as -I was to carry that from Belgium. But as Emin was disinclined to return -to Egypt, and declined to accept King Leopold’s generous offer of -employment, and dared pledge himself to accept service with the English -company until he had ascertained whether any of his people were willing -to accompany him, he was compelled to return to his province to consult -the inclinations of his officers, in doing which he was deposed from his -authority and made a prisoner. When permitted to visit our camp by his -rebellious officers, he placed himself under our escort, and accompanied -us to the sea, with servants as we compelled to serve him during the -journey.</p> - -<p>Therefore, having accomplished our mission toward him faithfully, with -every consideration and respect while he acted as the Governor of an -important province, with every kindness and tender solicitude for -himself and family during a journey of 1,400 miles, until he was in the -arms of his countrymen, we have some reason for being more than -surprised that the accident at the banquet at Bagamoyo should have so -suddenly terminated our acquaintance without the smallest -acknowledgment. Three several times I am aware I offended Emin. The -first time was on April 5th, when, finding him utterly unable to decide, -or to suggest anything, or accept suggestion from me, my patience, after -fifty-two days’ restraint, gave way. Even now the very thought of it -upsets me. If the Pasha had a whipping-boy, I fear the poor fellow would -have had a severe time of it. Secondly, my judgment in the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_469" id="page_469"></a>{469}</span> affair of -Mohammed’s wife was contrary to his wishes, but had he been my brother, -or benefactor, I could not have done otherwise than render strict -justice. Third was at Mtsora, when Emin came to apologise for certain -intemperate words he had used, and when I seized the opportunity of -giving him a little lecture upon the mode of conduct becoming a Pasha -and a gentleman. “I frankly accept your apology, Pasha,” I said, “but I -do hope that from here to the coast you will allow us to remember that -you are still the Governor of the Equatorial Province, and not a vain -and spoiled child. We can but grieve to see you exhibiting childish -pettishness, when we cannot forget that you are he for whom we were all -ready to fling away our lives at a moment’s notice. The method of -showing resentment for imaginary offences which we see in vogue with you -and Casati is new to us. We do not understand why every little -misunderstanding should be followed by suspension of intercourse. We -have been in the habit of expressing frankly our opinions, but never -above a minute nourishing resentment, and brooding over fancied wrongs. -If you could bear this in mind you would be convinced that this forced -seclusion in your tent cannot appear otherwise than absurd, and -infantile to us.”</p> - -<p>“Ah, Mr. Stanley, I am sorry I ever came on with you, and, if you will -allow me, on reaching Mr. Mackay’s, I will ask you to let me remain with -him,” said he.</p> - -<p>“But why, Pasha?” I asked. “Tell me why, and what is it you wish. Has -any person offended you? I know of everything that transpires in this -camp, but I confess that I am ignorant of any offence being done towards -you intentionally by any person. Down to the smallest Zanzibari boy I -can only see a sincere desire to serve you. Now, Pasha, let me show you -in few words for the first time how strange your conduct has appeared to -us. When we volunteered to convey relief to you, you were a kind of hero -to us; you were Gordon’s last lieutenant, who was in danger of being -overcome by the fate which seemed to overtake every person<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_470" id="page_470"></a>{470}</span> connected -with the Soudan, and we resolved to employ every faculty to extricate -you from what appeared to be the common doom. We did not ask what -country gave you birth, we did not inquire into your antecedents; you -were Emin, the heroic Governor of Equatoria to us. Felkin, and Junker, -and Allen, of the Anti-Slavery Society, had by their letters and -speeches created a keen sympathy in every breast for Emin, the last -lieutenant of Gordon. We were told that all you needed was ammunition, -and from the day when I left New York to take command of this -Expedition, I had only one thought, and that was to reach you before it -was too late. I wrote you from Zanzibar that we intended to take the -Congo route, and that we should march for Kavalli at the south-west end -of the Albert Lake, and I begged you to prepare the natives for our -coming, for you had two steamers, and life-boats, besides canoes. Well, -we reached Kavalli on the 14th December, 1887. You did not reach Kavalli -before March, 1888. That omission on your part cost us the life of a -gallant Englishman, and the lives of over a hundred of our brave and -faithful followers, and caused a delay of four months. We had to return -to Fort Bodo, and bring our boat to search for you. During twenty-six -days’ stay with you, we were not certain of any one thing, except that -you would wait for the arrival of the Major and rear column. We hastened -back to hunt up the rear column to find the Major was dead, and the rear -column a wreck. Now all this might have been avoided if you had visited -Kavalli, and assisted in your own relief. When we returned to you in -January, 1889, you were deposed, a helpless prisoner, and in danger of -being taken to Khartoum; and yet, though you had written to me that you -and Casati and many Egyptians were resolved to depart if I would give -you a little time, after fifty-six days’ patient waiting you were still -undecided what to do. My illness gave you an additional twenty-eight -days’ delay, and I find you still hankering for something that I cannot -guess, and which you will not name. Up to this date we have lost<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_471" id="page_471"></a>{471}</span> Major -Barttelot, and 300 lives; we are here to lose our own lives if they are -required. What more can we do for you? Write out in plain words your -needs, and you shall then judge for yourself whether our professions are -mere empty words.”</p> - -<p>From this time to the hour I bade him my farewell at the hospital on the -6th December nothing occurred to mar a pleasant intercourse. There was -one difficulty, however, under which I laboured, and that was to write -my letters to the Emin Relief Committee, without betraying our surprise -at the extraordinary vacillation which marked the Governor’s conduct. It -would have been a more agreeable task to have maintained the illusions -under which we had set out from England, but it was impossible. What -transpired at Kavalli was visible to every officer in the Expedition, -and at some indiscreet moment the mask under which friendship may have -attempted to disguise the eccentricities of the Pasha would surely have -been brushed aside. It was, therefore, necessary that I should state the -truth as charitably as possible, so that whatever may have been deduced -by critics, the worst charge would have been no more than that his -apparent vacillation was due to excess of amiability.</p> - -<p>But the Pasha’s conduct at Bagamoyo, from the moment he entered the -German Hospital, will not even permit me the privilege of exhibiting him -in such an amiable light. The ungrateful treatment which the poor boy -Sali received, the making of my letters common property among the German -officers, all of which were urging him to have regard for his own good -name and fair reputation, the strange ingratitude shown to Dr. Parke, -who ought not to have an enemy in the wide world, the sudden and -inexplicable cessation of intercourse with any member of our Expedition, -render it necessary that we should not close this book without reference -to these things.</p> - -<p>In Africa Emin Pasha expressed his fears that if he returned to Egypt he -would be unemployed. Within half-an-hour of my arrival in Cairo, I took -the liberty of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_472" id="page_472"></a>{472}</span> urging upon the Khedive that Emin Pasha should be -assured, as early as possible, that he would be certain of employment. -The Khedive at once consented, and in thirty-six hours Emin replied, -“Thanks, my kind master.”</p> - -<p>Four weeks later he cabled to the Khedive requiring that a credit for -£400 should be given to him at Zanzibar. Col. Euan-Smith, at Zanzibar, -was requested by the Government of Egypt to pay that amount to Emin, -whereupon he cabled back, “Since you cannot treat me better than that, I -send you my resignation.”</p> - -<p>As he had offered his services to England, the British East African -Company were induced to listen to his overtures, and I was aware while -at Cairo that a very liberal engagement was open to his acceptance; but -suddenly everybody was shocked to hear that he had accepted service with -the Germans in East Africa, and naturally one of his first duties would -be to inform his new employers of the high estimate placed on his genius -for administration by the directors of the British East Africa Company. -I understand that he had agreed to serve Germany one month previous to -his offer of service to the British Company. It is clear, therefore, why -he was negotiating with the latter.</p> - -<p>As has been stated above, his desire to serve the Germans has not been a -surprise to me; but this reckless indifference to his own reputation, -and his disregard of the finer human feelings certainly are calculated -to diminish admiration. While most readers of this book would be -indifferent to his employment by his own Emperor, and would consider it -perfectly natural and right that he should show preference for his own -natal land and countrymen, it will not appear so natural to them that -the flag which he had stated at Kavalli he had served for thirty years, -should have been so disdainfully cast aside, or that the “kind master,” -the Khedive of Egypt, who had given £14,000 towards his rescue, should -have been parted with so unceremoniously; or that Sir William Mackinnon -and his English friends, who had subscribed £16,000 for sending to him -the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_473" id="page_473"></a>{473}</span> assistance he had requested, should have been subjected to such a -sudden chilling of their kindly sympathies. Nor will it appear quite -natural to us that he should so soon forget his “dear people” for whom -he pleaded so nobly in May, 1888, and February and March, 1889, as to -leave them in Cairo for four months without a word. Dr. Vita Hassan, the -apothecary, his most devoted follower, received a letter from him a few -days before I left Cairo, which announced to him that he and the others -must look out for themselves, that as he had severed his connection with -Egypt he could not be troubled any more with them. Poor Shukri Agha, -faithful to the last, with tears in his eyes came to me to ask what it -all meant? What had he done to be treated with such neglect? With eight -years’ arrears of pay due to them, the Pasha’s followers remain -wondering why their late chief has so utterly cast them away.</p> - -<p>We were the recipients at Zanzibar of so much courtesy and hospitality -that pages might be filled with the mere mention of them. To Major -Wissmann, I am vastly indebted for large and unstinted hospitality, and -I feel honoured with the acquaintance of this noble and brave German -centurion. To the gallant Captains Foss and Hirschberg we owe great -gratitude for their unremitting kindness. To Consul-General Col. -Euan-Smith and his charming wife, to whom I am indebted for courtesies -past counting, and a hospitality as ungrudging as it was princely and -thoroughly disinterested, besides favours and honours without number, I -am too poor in aught to do more than make this simple record of a -goodness which cannot be recompensed. And indeed there was not a German, -or English, or Italian, or Indian resident at Zanzibar who did not show -to myself and companions in some form or another, either by substantial -dinners and choice wines their—what was called—appreciation of our -services in behalf of Emin Pasha, Captain Casati, and their followers.</p> - -<p>The Agent of the East African Company, in company with Lieut. Stairs, -having completed their labours, of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_474" id="page_474"></a>{474}</span> calculating the sums due to the -survivors of the Relief Expedition, and having paid them accordingly, a -purse of 10,000 rupees was subscribed thus: 3000 rupees from the Khedive -of Egypt; 3000 rupees from the Emin Relief Fund; 3000 rupees from myself -personally; 1000 rupees from the Seyyid Khalifa of Zanzibar, which -enabled the payees to deliver from 40 to 60 rupees extra to each -survivor according to desert. General Lloyd Mathews gave them also a -grand banquet, and in the name of the kind-hearted Sultan in various -ways showed how merit should be rewarded. An extra sum of 10,000 rupees -set apart from the Relief Fund is to be distributed also among the -widows and orphans of those who perished in the Yambuya Camp, and with -the Advance Column.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill-474_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/ill-474_sml.jpg" width="547" height="364" alt="THE FAITHFULS AT ZANZIBAR." -title="THE FAITHFULS AT ZANZIBAR." /></a><br /> -<span class="caption">THE FAITHFULS AT ZANZIBAR.</span> -</p> - -<p>Among my visitors at Zanzibar was a Mohammedan East Indian, named Jaffar -Tarya, who is a wealthy Bombay merchant, and acts as agent for many Arab -and Zanzibari caravan owners in Africa. Among others he acts as agent -for Hamed bin Mohammed, <i>alias</i> Tippu-Tib. He informed me that he held -the sum of £10,600 in gold, which was paid to him for and in behalf of -Tippu-Tib by the Government of the Congo Free State for ivory purchased -by Lieut. Becker from Tippu-Tib in its name. Jaffar Tarya had thus -unwittingly put the means in my hands to enable me to bring Tippu-Tib -some day before the Consular Court at Zanzibar to be judged for alleged -offences committed against British subjects—the gentlemen of the Emin -Relief Committee—and to refund certain expenses which had been incurred -by the declarations he had made before Acting Consul-General Holmwood, -that he would assist the Emin Pasha Relief Expedition with carriers. -Thus, in consideration of his signed agreement that he would furnish the -Expedition with 600 carriers, he had been granted free passage and board -for himself and ninety-six of his followers from Zanzibar to Banana -Point, River Congo=£1940, and from Banana Point to Stanley Falls=£1940. -At Yambuya he had received forty-seven bales<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_476" id="page_476"></a>{476}</span><a name="page_477" id="page_477"></a><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_475" id="page_475"></a>{475}</span> of cloth, about fifty -cases of gunpowder, as many cases of fixed ammunition, Remington rifles, -elephant guns, revolvers, and £128 worth of stores for his sub-chief, -Muini Sumai, on the promise that he would supply carriers to escort -Major Barttelot until the Major would either meet me or Emin Pasha, -which he did not do further than for about ninety miles, and therefore -caused us a delay of nearly a year, and a further expense of nearly -twelve months’ pay extra to about 250 Zanzibaris. The bill of claims -that we could legitimately present amounted in the aggregate to £10,000. -Whereupon I pleaded for an injunction that such moneys should not depart -from the hands of the British subject Jaffar Tarya until an English -court of justice should decide whether the Emin Relief Committee was not -entitled in equity to have these expenses and moneys refunded. After -hearing the evidence the Consular Judge granted the injunction. There is -not a doubt, then, that, if strict justice be dealt to this arch -offender, the Emin Relief Committee may find itself in possession of -funds sufficient to pay each Zanzibari survivor a bonus of 300 rupees, -and each of our officers the sum of £1000 cash, a consummation devoutly -to be wished.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">1890.<br />Jan. 16.<br />Cairo.</div> - -<p>After arriving at Cairo on the 16th of January, 1890, and delivering the -260 refugees to the Egyptian authorities, I sought a retired house -wherein I might proceed to write this record of three years’ experiences -“In Darkest Africa, and the Story of our Quest, Rescue, and Retreat of -Emin, the Governor of Equatoria.” I discovered such a house in the Villa -Victoria, and on January 25th I seized my pen to do a day’s work. But I -knew not how to begin. Like Elihu, my memory was full of matter, and I -desired to write that I might be refreshed; but there was no vent. My -right hand had forgotten its cunning, and the art of composition was -lost by long disuse. Wherefore, putting firm restraint against the -crowds of reminiscences that clamoured for issue, I let slip one after -another with painful deliberation into the light, and thus, while one -day my pen would fairly race over the paper at the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_478" id="page_478"></a>{478}</span> rate of nine folios -an hour, at other times it could scarcely frame 100 words. But finally, -after fifty days’ close labour, in obedience to an irresistible impulse -I have succeeded in reaching this page 903 of foolscap manuscript, -besides writing 400 letters and about 100 telegrams, and am compelled -from over-weariness to beg the reader’s permission to conclude.</p> - -<p>Some scenes of the wonderful land of Inner Africa, through which we have -travelled together, must for ever cling to our memories. Wherever we go -some thought of some one of the many scenes in that great forest will -intrude itself into the mind. The eternal woods will stand in their -far-away loneliness for ever. As in the past, so they will flourish and -fall for countless ages in the future, in dumb and still multitudes, -shadowy as ghosts in the twilight, yet silently creeping upward and -higher into the air and sunshine. In fancy we shall often hear the -thunder crashing and rushing in rolling echoes through the silence and -the darkness; we shall see the leaden mists of the morning, and in the -sunshine the lustre of bedewed verdure and the sheen of wet foliage, and -inhale the fragrance of flowers.</p> - -<p>And now and then—oh, the misery of it!—athwart the memory will glide -spectres of men cowering in the rainy gloom, shivering with cold, gaunt -and sad-eyed through hunger, despairing in the midst of the unknown; we -shall hear the moaning of dying men, see the stark forms of the dead, -and shrink again with the hopelessness of our state. Then like gleams of -fair morning will rise to view the prospects of the grass-land, the -vistas of green bossy hills, the swirling swathes of young grass -waltzing merrily with the gale, the flowing lines of boscage darkening -the hollows, the receding view of uplifting and subsiding land waves -rolling to the distance where the mountains loom in faint image through -the undefined blue. And often thought will wing itself lighter than a -swift, and soar in aërial heights over sere plain, blue water, vivid -green land and silver lake, and sail along the lengthy line of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_479" id="page_479"></a>{479}</span> colossal -mountain shoulders turned towards the Semliki, and around the -congregation of white heads seated in glory far above the Afric world, -and listen to the dropping waters as they tumble down along the winding -grooves of Ruwenzori in sheaves of silver arrows, and speed through the -impending rain-clouds, and the floating globes of white mist over -unexplored abysses, through the eternal haze of Usongora, and up with a -joyous leap into the cool atmosphere over Ankori and Karagwé, and -straight away over 300 leagues of pastoral plains, and thin thorn -forest, back again to marvel at the delightful azure of the Indian -Ocean.</p> - -<p>Good-night, Pasha, and you, Captain Casati! You will know better when -you have read these pages, what the saving of you cost in human life and -suffering. I have nothing to regret. What I have given that I have given -freely and with utmost good will; and so say we all.</p> - -<p>Good-night, Gentlemen of the Relief Committee! Three years are past -since your benevolence commissioned us to relieve the distressed and -rescue the weak. 260 all told have been returned to their homes; about -150 more are in safety.</p> - -<p>Good night, oh! my Companions! May honours such as you deserve be -showered upon you. To the warm hearts of your countrymen I consign you. -Should one doubt be thrown upon your manhood, or upon your loyalty or -honour, within these pages, the record of your faithfulness during a -period which I doubt will ever be excelled for its gloom and -hopelessness, will be found to show with what noble fortitude you bore -all. Good-night, Stairs, Jephson, Nelson, Parke, and you, Bonny, a long -good-night to you all!</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">You who never turned your backs,<br /></span> -<span class="i2">But marched breast forward,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Never doubted clouds would break,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Never dreamed, though right were worsted,<br /></span> -<span class="i2">Wrong would triumph.<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Held we fall to rise, are baffled to<br /></span> -<span class="i2">Fight better,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Sleep to wake.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_480" id="page_480"></a>{480}</span><br /></span> -</div><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">No, at noonday, in the bustle of<br /></span> -<span class="i2">Man’s work-time,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Greet the Unseen with a cheer!<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Bid them forward, breast and bark, as<br /></span> -<span class="i2">Either should be.<br /></span> -<span class="i0">“Strive and thrive!” cry, “speed, fight<br /></span> -<span class="i2">On, for ever,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">There as here.”<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p class="c"><span class="smcap">The Thanks be to God for ever and ever. Amen.</span><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_481" id="page_481"></a>{481}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="APPENDICES" id="APPENDICES"></a>APPENDICES.</h2> - -<h3><a name="APPENDIX_A" id="APPENDIX_A"></a>APPENDIX A.</h3> - -<p class="c">CONGRATULATIONS BY CABLE<br /> -RECEIVED AT ZANZIBAR.</p> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Windsor</span>, 10 <i>December</i>, 1889.<br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Stanley</span>, <i>Zanzibar</i>. My thoughts are often with you and your brave -followers, whose dangers and hardships are now at an end. Once more I -heartily congratulate all, including the survivors of the gallant -Zanzibaris who displayed such devotion and fortitude during your -marvellous Expedition. Trust Emin progresses favourably.</p> - -<p class="r"> -V. R. I.<br /> -</p> - -<hr /> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Berlin</span>, 4 <i>December</i>, 1889.<br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Stanley</span>, <i>Zanzibar</i>. Thanks to your tenacity of purpose and indomitable -courage, you have now, after having repeatedly crossed the Dark -Continent, achieved a new long journey full of fearful dangers and -almost unbearable hardship; that you have overcome it all, and that your -way home led you through territories placed under my flag, gives me -great satisfaction, and I welcome you heartily on your return to -civilization and safety.</p> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Wilhelm Imperator Rex.</span><br /> -<span class="smcap">Graf Bismarck.</span><br /> -</p> - -<hr /> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Brussels</span>, 23 <i>November</i>, 1889.<br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Stanley</span>, <i>Zanzibar</i>. Many greetings and warmest congratulations on your -marvellous and heroic expedition.</p> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Leopold.</span><br /> -</p> - -<hr /> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Washington</span>, 15 <i>December</i>, 1889.<br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Stanley</span>, <i>Zanzibar</i>. I am directed by the President of the United States -to tender his congratulations to you upon the success which<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_482" id="page_482"></a>{482}</span> has -attended your long tour of discovery through Africa, and upon the -advantages which may accrue therefrom to the civilized world.</p> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Blaine.</span><br /> -</p> - -<hr /> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Caire</span>, 7 <i>Décembre</i>, 1889.<br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Monsieur Stanley, Esq.</span>, <i>Zanzibar</i>. Je vous adresse mes sincères et -cordiales félicitations sur votre arrivée à Zanzibar après toutes les -péripéties de votre remarquable Expédition pour aller au sécours d’Emin -Pasha et de ses braves compagnons. Je vous ai envoyé un de mes bateaux, -le Mansourah, pour vous ramener et j’attends avec impatience le plaisir -de vous recevoir tous.</p> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Mehemet Thewfik</span>, <i>Khedive of Egypt</i>.<br /> -</p> - -<hr /> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Cairo Abdin</span>, 12 <i>December</i>, 1889.<br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Stanley</span>, <i>Zanzibar</i>. You are authorised to pay 200 pounds as a -gratification to your Zanzibar men in recognition of their services. The -British Consul-General has been asked to pay you the amount on behalf of -the Egyptian Government.</p> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Mehemet Thewfik</span>, <i>Khedive</i>.<br /> -</p> - -<hr /> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">London</span>, 12 <i>December</i>, 1889.<br /> -</p> - -<p>Stanley, Zanzibar. Corporation London invite you to reception Guildhall.</p> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Brand</span>, <i>Guildhall</i>.<br /> -</p> - -<hr /> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Bruxelles</span>, 11 <i>Décembre</i>, 1889.<br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Stanley</span>, <i>Zanzibar</i>. Société Géographie Bruxelles félicite invité.</p> - -<hr /> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Melbourne</span>, 11 <i>December</i>, 1889.<br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Stanley</span>, <i>Zanzibar</i>. Geographic Society, Victoria, congratulate you. -Convey Emin Pasha deep sympathy.</p> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Macdonald</span>, <i>Secretary</i>.<br /> -</p> - -<hr /> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Bruxelles</span>, 8 <i>Décembre</i>, 1889.<br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Monsieur Stanley</span>, <i>Zanzibar</i>. La Conférence de Bruxelles justement émue -des souffrances et des périls que vous avez bravés avec vos compagnons -et admirant l’énergie que vous avez déployée dans l’accomplissement -d’une noble mission, vous adresse ses sincères félicitations; elle -connaît et apprécie les nouveaux et grands services que vous avez rendus -à la science et à l’humanité; elle vous prie d’exprimer ses sympathies à -Emin Pasha, qui fidèle au devoir a<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_483" id="page_483"></a>{483}</span> si longtemps gardé un poste -dangereux, a de lui faire part des vœux qu’elle forme pour son -complet rétablissement au nom de la Conférence.</p> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Le Président Baron Lambermont.</span><br /> -</p> - -<hr /> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">London</span>, 11 <i>December</i>, 1889.<br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Stanley</span>, <i>Zanzibar</i>. Sir Julian Goldsmid, Sir Edwin Arnold, Alfred -Rothschild, Earl Wharncliffe, Prince Gluca, Sir Arthur Sullivan, Beatty -Kingston, Charles Wyndham, Colonel FitzGeorge, Lord Ronald Gower, Lord -Ernest Hamilton, Sir James Linton, Count Lutzow, Sir Morell Mackenzie, -General Sir Roger Palmer, D’Oyly Carte, Fred Cowen, Anderson, Critchett, -Sutherland Edwards, John Pettie, Robson, Rowe, Frank Lockwood, Farjeon, -Professor Herkomer, constituting Committee of Arts and Letters Club, -heartily congratulate you on brilliant success, safe return -civilization, invite you to banquet your honour.</p> - -<hr /> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">London</span>, 2 <i>December</i>, 1889.<br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Stanley</span>, <i>Zanzibar</i>. Council Royal Geographical Society congratulate you -heartily on success of journey and great discoveries.</p> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Grant Duff</span>, <i>President</i>.<br /> -</p> - -<hr /> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Edinburgh</span>, 30 <i>November</i>, 1889.<br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Stanley</span>, <i>Zanzibar</i>. Hearty congratulations thanks.</p> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Scottish Geographic</span>.<br /> -</p> - -<hr /> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Manchester</span>, 5 <i>December</i>, 1889.<br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Stanley</span>, <i>Zanzibar</i>. Manchester Geographical Society sends cordial -greeting to yourself and brave companions, trusting your health may be -spared.</p> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Greenwood, Steinthal and Sowerbutts</span>.<br /> -</p> - -<hr /> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Berlin</span>, 5 <i>December</i>, 1889.<br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Stanley</span>, <span class="smcap">Emin</span>, <i>Zanzibar</i>. Geographical Society sends hearty welcome.</p> - -<hr /> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">London</span>, 4 <i>December</i>, 1889.<br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Stanley</span>, <i>Zanzibar</i>. I must be first to offer you my warmest hearty -congratulations on the completion of your herculean task. Inform me as -soon as possible of your movements and telegraph general state of health -of your staff. I congratulate them upon their success.</p> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">(Sir William) Mackinnon</span> (Bart.).<br /> -</p> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_484" id="page_484"></a>{484}</span></p> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">London</span>, 25 <i>November</i>, 1889.<br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Stanley</span>, <i>Zanzibar</i>. My wife and I thankfully rejoice to learn of your -safety and success, and anxiously await further information. Accept our -most hearty congratulations. We are longing to see you. Offer our -kindest sympathy to Emin Pacha and all your companions. All the -Company’s officers have been instructed to do everything they can to -meet your wishes.</p> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">(Sir William) Mackinnon</span> (Bart.).<br /> -</p> - -<hr /> - -<div class="blockquot"><p><i>From</i> the Emin Pasha Relief Committee and the Directors of the -Imperial British East African Company <i>to</i> <span class="smcap">H. M. Stanley</span>, Esq., and -<span class="smcap">Emin Pasha</span>—</p></div> - -<p class="r"> -21 <i>November</i>, 1889.<br /> -</p> - -<p>Most cordial hearty congratulations.</p> - -<hr /> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Aden</span>, 24 <i>November</i>, 1889.<br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Stanley</span>, <i>Zanzibar</i>. Myself and George Mackenzie hope to organise proper -reception for you, which I consider both fitting and necessary.</p> - -<p class="r"> -Col. <span class="smcap">Euan-Smith</span>.<br /> -</p> - -<hr /> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Aden</span>, 24 <i>November</i>, 1889.<br /> -</p> - -<p>Heartiest welcome and sincerest congratulations on your safe return. I -hope to come and meet you at Bagamoyo if you do not reach there before -5th December. I only reach Zanzibar 2nd from England. Of course you will -stay with us on arrival. My wife joins me in heartiest good wishes.</p> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">George S. Mackenzie</span>.<br /> -</p> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class="smcap">Stanley</span>. Heartiest congratulations yourself and Emin. Am bearer of -several letters from friends. It is absolutely necessary must remain -Mombasa four days. Must proceed with all haste, greet you as special -representative Relief Committee.</p> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">G. S. Mackenzie</span>, <i>Aden</i>.<br /> -</p> - -<hr /> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">London</span>, 25 <i>December</i>, 1889.<br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Stanley</span>, <i>Zanzibar</i>. Balinakill sends you united kindest heartiest good -wishes for a merry Christmas and a happy New Year. They rejoice that at -this season you are enjoying your well-earned repose after your -hardships and dangers.</p> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Mackinnon</span>.<br /> -</p> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_485" id="page_485"></a>{485}</span></p> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Embekelweni</span>, 3 <i>December</i>, 1889.<br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Stanley</span>, <i>Zanzibar</i>. Safe again, thank God!</p> - -<p class="r"> -Col. <span class="smcap">De Winton</span>, <i>Swazieland</i>.<br /> -</p> - -<hr /> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">London</span>, 3 <i>December</i>.<br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Stanley</span>, <i>Zanzibar</i>. Thousand welcomes! Your old friend,</p> - -<p class="r"> -(J. R.) <span class="smcap">Robinson</span>, <i>Daily News</i>.<br /> -</p> - -<hr /> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">London</span>, 14 <i>December</i>, 1889.<br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Stanley</span>, <i>Zanzibar</i>. The Fishmongers Company send their congratulations -and wish to present Mr. H. M. Stanley with their Honorary Freedom. If -Mr. Stanley is willing to accept this, they request him to give them the -pleasure of his company at dinner during the month of February, or at -any other time he may find it more convenient.</p> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class="smcap">Brussels</span>, 7 <i>December</i>, 1889.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Stanley</span>, <i>Zanzibar</i>. The Burgomaster of Brussels sends in the name of -the Administration Communale his warmest felicitations to Henry Stanley -for the happy issue of his admirable enterprise, and hopes to welcome -him at the Town Hall.</p> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Buls</span>.<br /> -</p> - -<hr /> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">London</span>, 22 <i>December</i>, 1889.<br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Stanley</span>, <i>Zanzibar</i>. Applauds hero; tenders welcoming dinner.</p> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Savage Club</span>.<br /> -</p> - -<hr /> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">London</span>, 13 <i>December</i>, 1889.<br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Stanley</span>, <i>Zanzibar</i>. George Club felicitate.</p> - -<hr /> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">London</span>, 6 <i>December</i>, 1889.<br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Stanley</span>, <i>Zanzibar</i>. The Turners Company gave a dinner to the Lord Mayor -at which many old friends were present. After receiving a generous -telegram from His Majesty King Leopold, an honorary Turner, your health -was drunk with stirring enthusiasm. The Company send you hearty -congratulations on your splendid achievement and cordially welcome you -home.</p> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Burdett Coutts</span>, <i>Chairman</i>.<br /> -</p> - -<hr /> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">London</span>, 19 <i>December</i>, 1889.<br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Stanley</span>, <i>Zanzibar</i>. Best Christmas wishes. Congratulations from all.</p> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Lawson</span>, <i>Daily Telegraph</i>.<br /> -</p> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_486" id="page_486"></a>{486}</span></p> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">London</span>, 18 <i>December</i>, 1889.<br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Stanley</span>, <i>Zanzibar</i>. Americans, London, applaud heroic achievement in -cause of humanity, science, and invite you dinner. Minister Lincoln -presides, name probable date.</p> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Wellcome</span>, <i>Snowhill</i>.<br /> -</p> - -<hr /> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Paris</span>, 6 <i>December</i>, 1889.<br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Stanley</span>, <i>Zanzibar</i>. Let me first congratulate you upon your great -success, let me secondly thank you for letter, and your kindly treatment -of my correspondent. Hoping to see you soon, I am your great admirer,</p> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">James Gordon Bennett</span>, <i>New York Herald</i>.<br /> -</p> - -<hr /> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Edinburgh</span>, 29 <i>November</i>, 1889.<br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Stanley</span>, <i>Zanzibar</i>. Thousand welcomes, congratulations on safety and -brilliant achievement.</p> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Bruce</span> (Livingstone’s son-in-law).<br /> -</p> - -<hr /> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Zanzibar</span>, 7 <i>December</i>, 1889.<br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Stanley</span>, <i>Zanzibar</i>. Pierce says, several congratulations Society of -Arts. Elliot says, going to Cairo to-morrow, hopes to entertain you -there on New Year’s day. Everybody says you are a phenomenally great -man; to myself your success truly wonderful, beats romance. Sorry about -Emin, hope your able doctor will pull him through, due to you he should -be landed safe at home.</p> - -<p class="c"> -From <span class="smcap">Managing Director</span>, <i>Eastern Telegraph Company</i>.<br /> -</p> - -<hr /> - -<p class="r"> -4 <i>December</i>, 1889.<br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Stanley</span>, <i>Zanzibar</i>. You will have many congratulations on the -successful termination of your most heroic work; but none can be more -sincere and earnest than those of your friend.</p> - -<p class="r"> -(Sir) <span class="smcap">John Pender</span>.<br /> -</p> - -<hr /> - -<p class="r"> -30 <i>November</i>, 1889.<br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Stanley</span>, <i>Zanzibar</i>. Affectionate congratulations from your oldest -London friend on happy return and splendid achievements transcending all -that has gone before. Your name on every tongue on Sunday 22 December; -Robinson, Sala, Irving, Toole, Yates, Lawson, Wingfield, my guests at -Reform Club, when your health and glorious career was only toast of -evening.</p> - -<p class="r"> -(J. C.) <span class="smcap">Parkinson</span>.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_487" id="page_487"></a>{487}</span><br /> -<br /> -<span class="smcap">Vienna</span>, 28 <i>November</i>, 1889.<br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Stanley</span>, <i>Zanzibar</i>. Again welcome back from still another perilous -African Expedition.</p> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Douglas Gibbs</span>.<br /> -</p> - -<hr /> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Leipzig</span>, 5 <i>December</i>, 1889.<br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Stanley</span>, <i>Zanzibar</i>. Heartiest congratulations.</p> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Brockhaus</span>.<br /> -</p> - -<hr /> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Brussels</span>, 4 <i>December</i>, 1889.<br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Stanley</span>, <i>Zanzibar</i>. Warm congratulations.</p> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Independence Belge And Gerald Harry</span>.<br /> -</p> - -<hr /> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">New York</span>, 5 <i>December</i>, 1889.<br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Stanley</span>, <i>Zanzibar</i>. H. M. Stanley Africanus.</p> - -<p class="r"> -(J. B.) <span class="smcap">Pond</span>.<br /> -</p> - -<hr /> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">London</span>, 5 <i>December</i>, 1889.<br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Stanley</span>, <i>Zanzibar</i>. Sincerest congratulations.</p> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Glave, Ward</span>.<br /> -</p> - -<hr /> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">London</span>, 4 <i>December</i>, 1889.<br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Stanley</span>, <i>Zanzibar</i>. Bravo! welcome home.</p> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Sheldon, May, Welcome</span>.<br /> -</p> - -<hr /> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">New York</span>, 6 <i>December</i>, 1889.<br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Stanley</span>, <i>Zanzibar. Century Magazine</i> sends congratulations.</p> - -<p>&c. &c. &c. &c. &c. &c.</p> - -<hr /> - -<p class="c"> -(BY LETTER.)<br /> -</p> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Paris</span>, <i>le</i> 8 <i>Décembre</i>, 1889.<br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Monsieur Et Cher Collègue</span>,—La Société de Géographie de Paris nous -charge de vous féliciter de votre retour. Elle a pris le plus vif -intérêt aux périlleux voyages que vous venez d’accomplir et tout -particulièrement aux découvertes géographiques qui auront été le -résultat.</p> - -<p>La Société espère que vous voudrez bien la mettre à même d’en apprécier -toute l’importance.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_488" id="page_488"></a>{488}</span></p> - -<p>Veuillez agréer, Monsieur et cher Collègue, avec nos félicitations -personnelles l’expression de nos sentiments les plus distingués.</p> - -<p class="r"> -<i>Le Secrétaire général</i>,<br /> -<span class="smcap">C. Maunoir.</span><br /> -</p> - -<p class="c"> -<i>Le Président de la Commission Centrale, Membre de l’Institut</i>,<br /> -</p> - -<p class="r"> -J. Milne-Edwards.<br /> -</p> - -<p class="c"> -<i>Le Président de la Société, Membre de l’Institut</i>,<br /> -</p> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Comte De Lesseps.</span><br /> -</p> - -<p class="c"> -A. Monsieur Henry M. Stanley, Membre Correspondant de la<br /> -Société de Géographie de Paris.<br /> -</p> - -<hr /> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill-488_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/ill-488_sml.jpg" width="319" height="224" alt="THE CASKET CONTAINING THE HONORARY FREEDOM OF THE CITY OF LONDON, PRESENTED TO THE AUTHOR BEFORE SETTING OUT FOR THE RESCUE OF EMIN, JAN. 1887." -title="THE CASKET CONTAINING THE HONORARY FREEDOM OF THE CITY OF LONDON, PRESENTED TO THE AUTHOR BEFORE SETTING OUT FOR THE RESCUE OF EMIN, JAN. 1887." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">THE CASKET CONTAINING THE HONORARY FREEDOM OF THE CITY OF -LONDON, PRESENTED TO THE AUTHOR BEFORE SETTING OUT FOR THE RESCUE OF -EMIN, JAN. 1887.</span> -</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>GOLD CASKET PRESENTED TO MR. HENRY MORTON STANLEY WITH THE HONORARY -FREEDOM OF THE CITY.</p></div> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill-489_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/ill-489_sml.jpg" width="316" height="177" alt="A CASKET, THE GIFT OF KING LEOPOLD II., KING OF THE BELGIANS, CONTAINING THE STAR OF AFRICA, AND THE STAR OF SERVICE." -title="A CASKET, THE GIFT OF KING LEOPOLD II., KING OF THE BELGIANS, CONTAINING THE STAR OF AFRICA, AND THE STAR OF SERVICE." /></a><br /> -<span class="caption">A CASKET, THE GIFT OF KING LEOPOLD II., KING OF THE -BELGIANS, CONTAINING THE STAR OF AFRICA, AND THE STAR OF SERVICE.</span> -</p> - -<p>The design of the casket is Arabesque, and it stands upon a base of -Algerine onyx, surmounted by a plinth of ebony, the corners of which -project and are rounded. On each of these, at the angle of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_489" id="page_489"></a>{489}</span> casket, -stands an ostrich carved in ivory; behind each bird and curving over it -projects an elephant’s tusk, which is looped to three spears placed in -the panelled angle of the casket, the pillars of which are of -crocidolite, resting in basal sockets of gold, and surmounted by -capitals of the same metal. The panels of the casket and also the roof -are of ivory richly overlaid with ornamental work in fine gold of -various colours. The back panel bears the City arms emblazoned in the -proper heraldic colours. Of the end panels, one bears the tricoloured -monogram “H.M.S.” surrounded by a wreath-emblem of victory, and the -other that of the Lord Mayor of London. The front panel, which is also -the door of the casket, bears a miniature map of Africa surmounting the -tablet bearing the inscription: “Presented to Henry Morton Stanley with -the freedom of the City.” Above both the front and back panels on the -roof are the standards of America and Great Britain, and, surmounting -the whole, on an oval platform is an allegorical figure of the Congo -Free State, seated by the source of the river from which it derives its -name, and holding the horn of plenty, which is overflowing with native -products. The design was selected from among a large number submitted by -the leading London goldsmiths, and reflects great credit upon the taste -and workmanship of the designers and makers, Messrs. George Edward & -Son, Glasgow, and Poultry, London.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_490" id="page_490"></a>{490}</span></p> - -<h3><a name="APPENDIX_B" id="APPENDIX_B"></a>APPENDIX B.</h3> - -<p class="c">NOTES.</p> - -<p>The Wambutti knew a donkey and called it “atti.” They say that they -sometimes catch them in pits. What they can find to eat is a wonder. -They eat leaves.</p> - -<p>Bakiokwa language of Indekaru.</p> - -<p>Wambutti call their language Ku-mbutti, or that of Bakwa, pronounced -<i>Bakkvwa</i>. I fancy Schweinfurth may have been unable to detect the -subtle sound of v-w and called his dwarfs Akka.</p> - -<p>The Ku-mbutti or Bakkwa, the Bakiokwa or Bukumu, and the Babira, between -Kinnena and Kabongé on the Congo, we perceive speak three dialects -closely resembling one another, especially the first and last are -remarkably similar, yet there is a distance of forest between them of -several hundred miles, and the Lindi, Lenda and Ituri rivers separate -them.</p> - -<p>The Bavira and Babusessé, separated only by the Ituri, both countries -being grass land, speak a dialect remarkably alike. Formerly it was one -language; but in two generations the Baviras have become corrupted by -using daily the Rukobé, or that of the Wahuma. They migrated from the -banks of the Ituri, crossed the Ruki, and dwelt among the Wahuma, who -are an exclusive and proud people.</p> - -<p>The Rukobé or Wahuma have no single word for thanks, but yo -simire-kurungi literally means, “I take it to be good of you,” or “I -accept it kindly.”</p> - -<p>Wahuma, when children, call their father “baba,” equal to our papa; when -adults, “tata.”</p> - -<p>Wahuma, when children, call their mother “mama,” equal to our mamma; -when adults, “man.”</p> - -<p>Wahuma, on the other side of the lake, are called Wachwezi.</p> - -<p>The number three is the most universally similar. Take from Zanzibar on -to the East Coast to Banana on to the West Coast there is but little -variation, and through the forest region to Lake Albert, water is almost -pretty near alike, especially on the Western half, varying from riba, -liba, libu, libo, ibo, rubu.</p> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary=""> - -<tr><td>Chicken = kuku, kokko, ngokko, bukoko.</td> - -<td rowspan="5" valign="middle" class="bl">—These words seem<br /> -most popular across<br /> -Africa.</td></tr> - -<tr><td>Spear = ikunga, kunga. </td></tr> -<tr><td>Goat = me-me. </td></tr> -<tr><td>Ten = kumi. </td></tr> -<tr><td>Dog = mbwa, mbua. </td></tr> -</table> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_491" id="page_491"></a>{491}</span></p> - -<p>One would imagine a confusion of languages, as for instance:—</p> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="0" summary=""> - -<tr align="center"><td>Hottentot<br /> -Eye = mu</td> - -<td>Babusessé<br /> -Head = mu</td> -<td>Kumbutti<br /> -Head = mo</td> -<td>Mandingo.<br /> -Man = mo</td></tr> - -<tr align="center"><td>Wahuma<br /> -Milk = mata</td> - -<td>Galla<br /> -Head = matta</td></tr> - -<tr align="center"><td>Danakil -Cow = la</td> - -<td>Arabic. - la = no</td></tr> - -<tr align="center"><td>Tuarik.<br /> -Hair = zau</td> - -<td>Kikongo<br /> -Elephant = nzau</td></tr> - -<tr align="center"><td>Kiyanzi.<br /> -Friend = koi</td> - -<td>Bakiokwa.<br /> - Eye = koi</td></tr> - -<tr align="center"><td>Kisawahili.<br /> -Bana or Bwana = Master</td> - -<td>East Manyuema.<br /> - Bana = four</td></tr> - -<tr align="center"><td>Kisawahili.<br /> -Kiboko = Hippo</td> - -<td>Bavira<br /> -Head, hand, finger = Kiboko</td></tr> - -<tr align="center" valign="middle"><td>Somali.<br /> -Boro, mountain</td><td class="bl">—is in Swahili a vile slang word; and country in Niam Niam.</td></tr> - -</table> - -<p>Semmé in Hurrur is sky; in Soudanese Arabic it means good.</p> - -<p>Kuba in Bavira is sky; is dog in Adaiel, big in Swahili.</p> - -<p>Barra in Adaiel is woman; is continent in Swahili.</p> - -<p>Ina in Kiyanzi is four; in Yoruba means fire.</p> - -<p>Afi in Babira means road; in Ku-mbutti means river.</p> - -<p>A-é in Somali means dog, but means mother in Hurrur; so that son of a -female dog in Somali, would in Hurrur be a mother’s son.</p> - -<p>Ariho in Wahuma, or, are you here, is sky in Niam Niam.</p> - -<p>Happa, here, in Swahili, becomes yes in Monbuttu.</p> - -<p>The ibuka of the forest, approaches the ebbugu of Monbuttu (Banana).</p> - -<p>The Niam Niam have no words for numerals higher than five; six becomes -the second one battisa; seven the second two battiuwi, &c., &c.</p> - -<p>The Wabarukuru likewise.</p> - -<p>Posyo, meat in Niam Niam, approaches the Posho, rations, Swahili, and -podzio, Russian for hurry.</p> - -<p>Rubu, rain, of the Adaiel is a common name for perhaps a score of -African rivers. Lufu, Ruvu, Rufu. The Danakil word for rain, robé, is as -nearly related to libo (water). Monbutti, ruba of Mbarukukaru; ibo of -the Babira; libu Babusessé.</p> - -<p>The ba (father) of the Niam Niam becomes mother in Mandingo.</p> - -<p>While Dé, woman of the Niam Niam, is the same as the Jalif to the W.N.W. -for far, but dé is four in Dinka.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_492" id="page_492"></a>{492}</span></p> - -<h3>APPENDIX B.</h3> - -<p class="cb">COMPARATIVE TABLE OF FOREST AND GRASSLAND LANGUAGES.</p> - -<table border="1" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="" - class="tbl"> -<tr valign="top" align="center"><td> -English.</td> - -<td>Ku-mbutti or<br /> -Bakwa.<br /> -Forest.</td> - -<td>Bakiokwa or<br /> -Bakumu.<br /> -Forest.</td> - -<td>Pigmy Language<br /> -Near Indékaru, =<br /> -Mbarukukaru.<br /> -Forest.</td> - -<td>Babira.<br /> -Near<br /> -Kinenna.<br /> -Forest.</td> - -<td>Balegga,<br /> -Near Lake<br /> -Albert.</td></tr> - -<tr><td>One. </td><td> Kadi. </td><td> do. </td><td> Ujju. </td><td> moti. </td><td> anderré.</td></tr> -<tr><td>Two. </td><td> Ibari. </td><td> do. </td><td> Ibari. </td><td> Ibari. </td><td> andrekwa.</td></tr> -<tr><td>Three. </td><td> Saro. </td><td> do. </td><td> ikaro. </td><td> isaro. </td><td> undichikwa.</td></tr> -<tr><td>Four. </td><td> Zinna. </td><td> do. </td><td> ikwanganya. </td><td align="center">.. </td><td> goruchi.</td></tr> -<tr><td>Five. </td><td> itano. </td><td align="center">.. </td><td> bumuti. </td><td> itano. </td><td> andekaro.</td></tr> -<tr><td>Six. </td><td> mutuba. </td><td> do. </td><td> ijju. </td><td> mutuba. </td><td> zabandu.</td></tr> -<tr><td>Seven. </td><td> Kitanai. </td><td> do. </td><td> bumutti-na-ibali. </td><td align="center">.. </td><td> karubaro.</td></tr> -<tr><td>Eight. </td><td> Kibbé. </td><td align="center">.. </td><td> bumutti-na-iharo. </td><td align="center">.. </td><td> kaibandu.</td></tr> -<tr><td>Nine. </td><td> ellalo. </td><td> do. </td><td> bumutti-na-ikwanganya. </td><td align="center">.. </td><td> bangewada-una.</td></tr> -<tr><td>Ten. </td><td> mukko. </td><td align="center">.. </td><td> mabo. </td><td> mukko. </td><td> Boga or zadichi.</td></tr> -<tr><td>Twenty. </td><td> mukko ibali.</td><td> do. </td><td> mabo ibari. </td><td align="center">.. </td><td> makibo za.</td></tr> -<tr><td>Thirty. </td><td> mukko saro. </td><td> do. </td><td align="center"> &c. </td><td align="center">.. </td><td align="center">..</td></tr> -<tr><td>Forty. </td><td align="center">.. </td><td align="center">.. </td><td align="center"> &c. </td><td align="center">.. </td><td align="center">..</td></tr> -<tr><td>Fifty. </td><td align="center">.. </td><td align="center">.. </td><td align="center"> &c. </td><td align="center">.. </td><td align="center">..</td></tr> -<tr><td>Sixty. </td><td align="center">.. </td><td align="center">.. </td><td align="center"> &c. </td><td align="center">.. </td><td align="center">..</td></tr> -<tr><td>Seventy. </td><td align="center">.. </td><td align="center">.. </td><td align="center"> &c. </td><td align="center">.. </td><td align="center">..</td></tr> -<tr><td>Eighty. </td><td align="center">.. </td><td align="center">.. </td><td align="center"> &c. </td><td align="center">.. </td><td align="center">..</td></tr> -<tr><td>Ninety. </td><td align="center">.. </td><td align="center">.. </td><td align="center"> &c. </td><td align="center">.. </td><td align="center">..</td></tr> -<tr><td>Hundred. </td><td align="center">.. </td><td align="center">.. </td><td align="center"> &c. </td><td align="center">.. </td><td align="center">..</td></tr> -<tr><td>Man. </td><td> moku. </td><td> mogo. </td><td> mabo-mabo. </td><td> mkwa. </td><td> mbissa.</td></tr> -<tr><td>Woman. </td><td> kali. </td><td> kali. </td><td> muttu. </td><td align="center">.. </td><td align="center">..</td></tr> -<tr><td>Cow. </td><td> Banzari. </td><td> ikuma. </td><td> nkali. </td><td> inki. </td><td> adthé.</td></tr> -<tr><td> </td></tr> - -<tr><td>Dog. </td><td> ibu. </td><td> ibu. </td><td> mbua. </td><td> mbo. </td><td> atché.</td></tr> -<tr><td>Donkey. </td><td> atti. </td><td> makabo. </td><td align="center">.. </td><td align="center">.. </td><td align="center">..</td></tr> -<tr><td>Goat. </td><td> samanga. </td><td> meme-apabay.</td><td> mé-mé. </td><td> mé-mé. </td><td> ndiri.</td></tr> -<tr><td>Foot. </td><td> itindi. </td><td> itindi. </td><td> maguru. </td><td> itindi. </td><td> jokoloro.</td></tr> -<tr><td>Finger. </td><td> Bukanzigu. </td><td> kerro. </td><td> iheu. </td><td> njaga. </td><td> nethagwa.</td></tr> -<tr><td>Head. </td><td> mo. </td><td> mabongo. </td><td> moru. </td><td> mo. </td><td> nejjo.</td></tr> -<tr><td>Stool. </td><td> mbata. </td><td> mbata. </td><td> pumburu. </td><td> mbuta. </td><td align="center">..</td></tr> -<tr><td>Canoe. </td><td> kuku. </td><td> kungi. </td><td> bwato. </td><td align="center">.. </td><td> achu.</td></tr> -<tr><td>Tree. </td><td> mi. </td><td> buo. </td><td> mpaho. </td><td> mi. </td><td> achugwaro.</td></tr> -<tr><td>House. </td><td> Imlu. </td><td> kurunbo. </td><td> bangwari. </td><td> indu. </td><td> adza.</td></tr> -<tr><td>Arrow. </td><td> mukwari. </td><td> appi. </td><td> bahura. </td><td> nsoh. </td><td> mburr.</td></tr> -<tr><td>Knife. </td><td> ngwu. </td><td> tambi. </td><td> mbako. </td><td> mbago.<a name="FNanchor_37_37" id="FNanchor_37_37"></a><a href="#Footnote_37_37" class="fnanchor">[37]</a> </td><td> adyo.</td></tr> -<tr><td>Spear. </td><td> Ikunga. </td><td> murupa. </td><td> ikunga. </td><td> ikunga. </td><td> allé.</td></tr> -<tr><td>Chicken. </td><td> indumbi. </td><td> kokko. </td><td> Kokko. </td><td> kokko. </td><td> ‘n-o.</td></tr> -<tr><td>River. </td><td> afi. </td><td> afi. </td><td> Faruba or Ruba. </td><td> ibo. </td><td> adda.</td></tr> -<tr><td>Water. </td><td> libo. </td><td> akko. </td><td> Ruba. </td><td> ibo. </td><td> addchissi.</td></tr> -<tr><td>Fire. </td><td> mosa. </td><td> musa. </td><td> ritta. </td><td> nsa. </td><td> kazi.</td></tr> -<tr><td>Tobacco. </td><td align="center">.. </td><td align="center">.. </td><td align="center">.. </td><td align="center">.. </td><td align="center">..</td></tr> -<tr><td>Sun. </td><td> Kupa. </td><td> mani. </td><td> Hehwahi. </td><td> mani. </td><td> ajjé.</td></tr> -<tr><td>Moon. </td><td> Sungi. </td><td> burugwurru. </td><td> Timba. </td><td> Sungi. </td><td> apiro.</td></tr> -<tr><td>Stars. </td><td> Bibi. </td><td> Passi. </td><td> Antongera. </td><td> barerengwa.</td><td> bibiro.</td></tr> -<tr><td>Sky. </td><td> Iku. </td><td> Iku. </td><td> ligaliki. </td><td> kupa. </td><td> abiro.</td></tr> -<tr><td>Rain. </td><td> mbua. </td><td> mbu. </td><td> maneri. </td><td> mbua. </td><td> ajesi.</td></tr> -<tr><td>Elephant.</td><td> mbungu </td><td> uku. </td><td> mbungu. </td><td> mbungu. </td><td> addy apesiabbé.</td></tr> -<tr><td>Leopard. </td><td> mapiranga. </td><td> mapilougo. </td><td> Biukabui. </td><td> mabianga. </td><td> ngoro.</td></tr> -<tr><td>Hyena. </td><td> mdondaté. </td><td align="center">.. </td><td> kio. </td><td align="center">.. </td><td> nyiuhu.</td></tr> -<tr><td>Fish. </td><td> nsu-mbungi. </td><td> mbungi. </td><td> Bahi. </td><td> Su. </td><td> abbé.</td></tr> -<tr><td>Meat. </td><td> nimbu. </td><td> kupa. </td><td> ngai. </td><td> aboré. </td><td> aza.</td></tr> -<tr><td>Bird. </td><td> ndiya. </td><td> mbabu. </td><td> banori. </td><td> mbu. </td><td> aré.</td></tr> -<tr><td>Country. </td><td> Imbanda. </td><td align="center">.. </td><td align="center">.. </td><td align="center">.. </td><td> ango.</td></tr> -</table> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_493" id="page_493"></a>{493}</span> </p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_494" id="page_494"></a>{494}</span> </p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_495" id="page_495"></a>{495}</span> </p> - -<table border="1" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="" - class="tbl"> - -<tr align="center" valign="middle"> -<td>English.</td> -<td>Ku-mbutti.</td> -<td>Bakiokwa.</td> -<td>Pigmy’s<br />Language.</td> -<td>Babira (Near Kumina).</td> -<td>Balegga.</td> - -<td>Wahuma.</td> -<td>Bavira.</td> -<td>Wasumburu and<br />Babusessé.</td> -<td>Dinka.</td> -<td>Monbuttu.</td> -<td>Niam Niam.</td></tr> - -<tr><td>Hill or Mountain.</td><td>mambu.</td><td>Ibiko.</td><td>ligungu.</td><td>mambu.</td><td>abero.</td><td> rusossi.</td><td>bimba.</td><td>bimba.</td><td>Ekgur.</td><td>Nouru.</td><td>Gaugara.</td></tr> -<tr><td>Food.</td><td>Ilyapa.</td><td>Liari.</td><td>matanja.</td><td>pikisavia.</td><td>gussa.</td><td> viakulya.</td><td>leri.</td><td>lissa.</td><td>benekuu epichar.</td><td>Anyo.</td><td>Niya.</td></tr> -<tr><td>Stick.</td><td>mbembé.</td><td>mbeketti.</td><td>mbau.</td><td>lenda.</td><td>achu.</td><td> mwigo.</td><td>mwigo.</td><td>miri.</td><td>etchortim.</td><td>Nekkirri.</td><td>Negua.</td></tr> -<tr><td>Wood.</td><td>kakala.</td><td align="center">..</td><td align="center">..</td><td align="center">..</td><td>akari.</td><td> enku.</td><td>kubuna musa.</td><td>bau.</td><td align="center">..</td><td>Ekkirré.</td><td>Nyaké.</td></tr> -<tr><td>Cloth.</td><td>nangombé.</td><td>bongo.</td><td>ngombé.</td><td>bongo.</td><td>abbo.</td><td> rubuku.</td><td>kibugu.</td><td>bongo.</td><td>Ebwam.</td><td>Noggi.</td><td>Lokki.</td></tr> -<tr><td>Potatoes.</td><td>mburebbo.</td><td align="center">..</td><td align="center">..</td><td align="center">..</td><td>lali.</td><td> viyata.</td><td>kiatta.</td><td>kafetta.</td><td align="center">..</td><td>Namanzingi.</td><td>Abaugwé.</td></tr> -<tr><td>Banana.</td><td>masaba.</td><td>Ibuki.</td><td>bogu.</td><td>ibnku.</td><td>Setza.</td><td> vitoké.</td><td>didi.</td><td>nderi.</td><td align="center">..</td><td>Ebbugu.</td><td>Bu.</td></tr> -<tr><td>Salt.</td><td>kua.</td><td>mabwari.</td><td>appa.</td><td>kua.</td><td>ako.</td><td> kisura.</td><td>mukwa.</td><td>gokoi.</td><td align="center">..</td><td>Nagangu.</td><td>Tikwo.</td></tr> -<tr><td>Flour.</td><td>keké.</td><td>amamatubitubi</td><td align="center">..</td><td>simbo.</td><td>usaro-u.</td><td> nsano.</td><td>mtubu.</td><td>ntubu.</td><td>etyolabib.</td><td>Nekkim-bappu.</td><td>Ngunga.</td></tr> -<tr><td>Road.</td><td>apendé.</td><td>nzi.</td><td>hambi.</td><td>afi.</td><td>adzu.</td><td> muhanda.</td><td>siyo.</td><td>sha, midendé.</td><td>ekgwera.</td><td>Neyi.</td><td>Jiné.</td></tr> -<tr><td>Road to water.</td> -<td>mbungu-a-libo</td> -<td align="center">..</td> -<td align="center">..</td> -<td align="center">..</td> -<td align="center">..</td> -<td></td><td></td> -<td></td><td></td> -<td></td><td></td></tr> -<tr><td>Stone.</td><td>Itari.</td><td>mukuku.</td><td>libuku.</td><td>ité.</td><td>achu.</td><td> rubengu.</td><td>tari.</td><td>tari.</td><td>makweguru.</td><td>Nekoppi.</td><td>Mbia.</td></tr> -<tr><td>Eye.</td><td>mbukesu.</td><td>koi.</td><td>liho.</td><td>isu.</td><td>ndenyo.</td><td> lisu.</td><td>iso.</td><td>isu.</td><td>enyer.</td><td>Nengo.</td><td>Bunglisé.</td></tr> -<tr><td>Nose.</td><td>Erro.</td><td>mbemberro.</td><td>hongo.</td><td>erro.</td><td>loro.</td><td> nindu.</td><td>ruru.</td><td>ruru.</td><td>ewum.</td><td>Namu.</td><td>Omno.</td></tr> -<tr><td>Mouth.</td><td>medari.</td><td>medari.</td><td>uchi.</td><td>afenogo.</td><td>kangaroro.</td><td> mkanwa.</td><td>noko.</td><td>daka.</td><td>ketok.</td><td>Nettiko.</td><td>Ng waiy.</td></tr> -<tr><td>Teeth.</td><td>minyo.</td><td>minyo.</td><td>minyo.</td><td>mino.</td><td>nekuro.</td><td> meno.</td><td>minyo.</td><td>mino.</td><td>eyalesa.</td><td>Ekki.</td><td>Lindisé.</td></tr> -<tr><td>Lips.</td><td>pasanioko.</td><td>basanioko.</td><td>mbuchuki.</td><td>mututu.</td><td>nécho.</td><td> munwa.</td><td>noko.</td><td>gubono.</td><td>ettok.</td><td>Andwitiki.</td><td>Ngwa.</td></tr> -<tr><td>Ears.</td><td>kitu.</td><td>kitoi.</td><td>matewu.</td><td>kitui.</td><td>neppé.</td><td> mato.</td><td>kitoi.</td><td>kitui.</td><td>ayit.</td><td>Ebbi.</td><td>Turu.</td></tr> -<tr><td>Tongue.</td><td>idakka.</td><td>iddakako.</td><td>limi.</td><td>iddaka.</td><td>nechuro.</td><td> arimi.</td><td>daka.</td><td>daga.</td><td>eleb.</td><td>Nekkadr.</td><td>Milalo.</td></tr> -<tr><td>Hand.</td><td>ekkakanzikka.</td><td>ekkaki.</td><td>rabegi.</td><td>njaga.</td><td>nethora.</td><td> kiganza.</td><td>kiboko.</td><td>kibogo.</td><td>etchini.</td><td>Etté.</td><td>Bebeyo.</td></tr> -<tr><td>Hide or Skin.</td><td>koko.</td><td>kosso.</td><td>eddippa.</td><td>mbogo.</td><td>kura.</td><td> mbirri or ruhu.</td><td>mburu.</td><td>ngufu.</td><td align="center">..</td><td>Nerikeppi.</td><td>Kwotto.</td></tr> -<tr><td>Run.</td><td>mbango.</td><td align="center">..</td><td>mbangu.</td><td>kutiya.</td><td>akoro-lelé.</td><td> chuiruki.</td><td>kite-teha.</td><td align="center">..</td><td align="center">..</td><td>Kurwengo.</td><td>Moro.</td></tr> -<tr><td>Sleep.</td><td>toro.</td><td>bulangi.</td><td>toro.</td><td>toro.</td><td>manduga-yigu.</td><td> viamé.</td><td>kisi-niyha.</td><td>toro.</td><td align="center">..</td><td>Eyeyé.</td><td>Lammi.</td></tr> -<tr><td>Thanks.</td><td>batori.</td><td align="center">..</td><td>hek-heh.</td><td align="center">..</td><td align="center">..</td><td> yosimiré,<br />kurungi.</td><td>kusimiya mali.</td><td>mtagako.</td><td>nyapoto.</td><td>No such word.</td></tr> -<tr><td>Father.</td><td>aupa.</td><td>aypa.</td><td>Abba.</td><td>abbé.</td><td>abbu.</td><td> baba and Tata.</td><td>baba.</td><td>baba.</td><td>etcha lûr.</td><td>Papa.</td><td>Ba.</td></tr> -<tr><td>Mother.</td><td>ioyma.</td><td>eyma.</td><td>amma.</td><td>ammé.</td><td>azha.</td><td> mana and mau.</td><td>ma-mé.</td><td>mamaki.</td><td>etcholmar.</td><td>Iyangwé.</td><td>Na.</td></tr> -<tr><td>Brother.</td><td>Baruku.</td><td>aiyapa.</td><td>Dadi mwami.</td><td>manema.</td><td>ja-jaugwa.</td><td> mwana-mau.</td><td>mikima-mama.</td><td>namako.</td><td align="center">..</td><td>Iyandegwa.</td><td>Uriwemi.</td></tr> -<tr><td>Dead.</td><td>kukwa.</td><td>ikussa.</td><td>mutwapwa.</td><td>kukwa.</td><td>doro.</td><td> afwiri.</td><td>atyaku.</td><td>kukwa.</td><td>kojjajitor.</td><td>Nunsi.</td><td>Kupi.</td></tr> -<tr><td>No.</td><td>kimakari.</td><td align="center">..</td><td>agh-agh.</td><td align="center">..</td><td align="center">..</td><td> nga.</td><td>kari.</td><td>atingani.</td><td align="center">..</td><td>Kai.</td><td>Wotté.</td></tr> -<tr><td>Yes.</td><td>Ruki.</td><td align="center">..</td><td>ibba.</td><td align="center">..</td><td align="center">..</td><td> kiniha.</td><td>kimasoni.</td><td>apongi.</td><td align="center">..</td><td>Kappa.</td><td>Sudu.</td></tr> -<tr><td>Good-day.</td><td>Kundana.</td><td align="center">..</td><td>ubalya.</td><td>Kisa.</td><td>apobangaro.</td><td> kississi.</td><td>kuramichi.</td><td>lala binzoni.</td><td align="center">..</td><td>Ingasijé.</td><td>Muyekonno.</td></tr> -</table> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_496" id="page_496"></a>{496}</span></p> - -<h3><a name="APPENDIX_C_FROM_THE_ATLANTIC_TO_THE_INDIAN_OCEAN" id="APPENDIX_C_FROM_THE_ATLANTIC_TO_THE_INDIAN_OCEAN"></a>APPENDIX C.—FROM THE ATLANTIC TO THE INDIAN OCEAN.</h3> - -<p class="cb">ITINERARY OF THE JOURNEYS MADE IN 1887, 1888, 1889.</p> - -<table border="1" cellpadding="1" cellspacing="0" summary="" - class="tbl"> - <col width="auto" /> - <col width="150" /> - <col width="auto" /> - <col width="auto" /> - <col width="auto" /> - <col width="80" /> - <col width="70" /> - <col width="70" /> - <col width="auto" /> - -<tr valign="middle" align="center"> - -<td>Date. </td> -<td> Name of Place or Camp. </td> -<td> Distance<br /> in<br /> Miles.</td> -<td colspan="2">Time<br /> -occupied in<br /> -Hrs. Mins.</td> -<td>Rain<br /> during<br /> -Month.</td> -<td style="padding-right:150%;"> - -E. Long. -</td> -<td> Latitude. </td> -<td>Above<br /> -Sea<br /> -Level.</td></tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">1887. </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> Feet. </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">March 19 & 20</td> -<td align="center">From the Atlantic Ocean up to the Lower<br /> Congo to Mataddi</td> -<td align="right"> 108 </td> -<td align="right"> 14 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td></tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">March 24 to April 21</td> -<td align="center"> March overland from Mataddi to<br /> Leopoldville on Upper Congo.</td> -<td align="right">235 </td> -<td align="right">74</td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td></tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">May 1 to<br /> June 15</td> -<td align="center"> By steamer up the Congo from<br /> -Leopoldville to Yambuya</td> -<td align="right">1050 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">25° 3′ 30″ </td> -<td align="left">N. 1° 17′ 24″</td> -<td align="right"> </td></tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">June 28</td> -<td align="center">Yambuya to Yankondé Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 10 </td> -<td align="right"> 6 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 1210 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">29</td> -<td> Bahungi Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 2 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">25° 13′ 30″</td> -<td align="left">N. 1° 20′ </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">30</td> -<td> Burnt Village Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 10 </td> -<td align="right"> 7 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">N. 1° 14′ 35″</td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">July 1</td> -<td>Camp Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 8 </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">25° 27′ </td> -<td align="left">N. 1° 14′ </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">2</td> -<td> Camp Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 3 </td> -<td align="right"> 1 </td> -<td align="right"> 45 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">3</td> -<td> Camp Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 6 </td> -<td align="right"> 7 </td> -<td align="right"> 45 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">4</td> -<td> Camp by Aruwimi Elver Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 45 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">5</td> -<td> Bukanda Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 6½ </td> -<td align="right"> 6 </td> -<td align="right"> 45 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">25° 33′ </td> -<td align="left">N. 1° 17′ </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">6</td> -<td> Camp Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 2 </td> -<td align="right"> 1 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">7</td> -<td> Bakuti Village Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 6 </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">8</td> -<td> Bakoka Village Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 6 </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> 45 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">9</td> -<td> Village Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 8 </td> -<td align="right"> 6 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">25° 37′ 45″</td> -<td align="left">N. 1° 28′ 38″</td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">10</td> -<td> Village Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 7 </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> 45 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">25° 42′ 30″</td> -<td align="left">N. 1° 29′ </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">11</td> -<td> Gwengweré Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">N. 1° 28′ 30″</td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">12</td> -<td> Lower Banalya Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 8 </td> -<td align="right"> 6 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">25° 51′ 45″</td> -<td align="left">N. 1° 28′ 45″</td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">13</td> -<td> Upper Banalya Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 8 </td> -<td align="right"> 6 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">25° 58′ 45″</td> -<td align="left">N. 1° 31′ </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">15</td> -<td> Bungangeta Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 6 </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">26° 2′ 15″</td> -<td align="left">N. 1° 33′ </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">16</td> -<td> Lower Mariri Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 7 </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">17</td> -<td> Central Mariri Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">18</td> -<td> Camp Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 8 </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">19</td> -<td> Upper Mariri Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 2 </td> -<td align="right"> 2 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">20</td> -<td> Upper Mariri Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 2 </td> -<td align="right"> 2 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">26° 22′ 45″</td> -<td align="left">N. 1° 46′ </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">21</td> -<td> S. Mupé Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">22</td> -<td> N. Mupé Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">N. 1° 50′ 48″</td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">23</td> -<td> Above Bumbwa Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 7 </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">26° 22′ 15″</td> -<td align="left">N. 1° 56′ </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">24</td> -<td> Elephant Playground Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 9 </td> -<td align="right"> 6 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">25</td> -<td> Bandeya (Wasp Rapids) Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 8 </td> -<td align="right"> 7 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">27</td> -<td> Camp Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 6 </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">26° 37′ </td> -<td align="left">N. 1° 56′ </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">28</td> -<td> Below Mukupi Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 7 </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">26° 45′ </td> -<td align="left">N. 1° 58′ </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">29</td> -<td> Opposite Myyui Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 6 </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 15 </td> -<td align="right">56½hrs.</td> -<td align="left">26° 46′ 30″</td> -<td align="left">N. 1° 58′ 30″</td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">August 1</td> -<td> Opposite Mambanga Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 9 </td> -<td align="right"> 6 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">26° 48′ 45″</td> -<td align="left">N. 1° 57′ </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">2</td> -<td> Opposite Ngula R Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 9 </td> -<td align="right"> 6 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">3</td> -<td> Below Panga Falls Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 7 </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">26° 50′ 45″</td> -<td align="left">N. 1° 54′ </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">4</td> -<td> Panga Falls Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">27° 1′ 30″</td> -<td align="left">N. 1° 53′ </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">6</td> -<td> Above Falls Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 1½ </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 45 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">7</td> -<td> Nejambi Rapids Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">8</td> -<td> Above Rapids Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 1 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">9</td> -<td> Utiri Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 7 </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">27° 9′ 45″</td> -<td align="left">N. 1° 51′ </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">11</td> -<td> Engweddé Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 10 </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">13</td> -<td> Avisibba Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 7 </td> -<td align="right"> 3 </td> -<td align="right"> 45 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">27° 16′ O”</td> -<td align="left">N. 1° 41′ 16″</td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">15</td> -<td> Camp Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 3 </td> -<td align="right"> 2 </td> -<td align="right"> 45 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">16</td> -<td> Lower Mabengu Rapids Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 6 </td> -<td align="right"> 3 </td> -<td align="right"> 45 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">22</td> -<td> Upper Mabengu Rapids Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 2½ </td> -<td align="right"> 2 </td> -<td align="right"> 45 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">N. 1° 45′ </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">23</td> -<td> Avu-gadu Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 6½ </td> -<td align="right"> 3 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">N. 1° 40′ </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">24</td> -<td> Avu-gadu Rapids Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">25</td> -<td> Fisher’s Camp Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 9 </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">27° 27′ 30″</td> -<td align="left">N. 1° 40′ </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">26</td> -<td> Avé-jeli Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 8 </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">27° 31′ 45″</td> -<td align="left">N. 1° 37′ </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">28</td> -<td> Little Village Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 4½ </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">29</td> -<td> Camp Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">30</td> -<td> Foot of Basopo Cataract Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">27° 35′ 30′</td> -<td align="left">N. 1° 40′ </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">31</td> -<td> Basopo Cataract Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 2½ </td> -<td align="right"> 1 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right">56 hrs.</td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">September 1 </td> -<td> Foot of Rapids Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 6 </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">3</td> -<td> Camp Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 3 </td> -<td align="right"> 3 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">4</td> -<td> Top of Cataract Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 2 </td> -<td align="right"> 45 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">5</td> -<td> Hippo Broads Camp Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 3 </td> -<td align="right"> 1 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right">.. </td> -<td align="right">.. </td> -<td align="right"> N 1° 40′ </td> -<td align="right"> 1916 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">6</td> -<td> Foot of Bafaido Cataract Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 8 </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right">.. </td> -<td align="right">.. </td> -<td align="right">.. </td> -<td align="right">.. </td> -<td align="right"> 1964 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">8</td> -<td> Avéyabu Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 9 </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right">.. </td> -<td align="right">.. </td> -<td align="right">.. </td> -<td align="right"> N 1° 29′ </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">9</td> -<td> Navaiya Rapids Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 7 </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right">.. </td> -<td align="left">27° 54′ 30″ </td> -<td align="right"> N 1° 30′ </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">10</td> -<td> Navaiya Cataract Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 3½ </td> -<td align="right"> 3 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">11</td> -<td> Navabi Village Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 3 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right">.. </td> -<td align="left">27° 56′ </td> -<td align="right"> N 1° 26′ </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">12</td> -<td> Camp Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 6 </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">13</td> -<td> Amiri Falls Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 6½ </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right">.. </td> -<td align="right">.. </td> -<td align="right">.. </td> -<td align="right"> N 1° 24′ </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">15</td> -<td> Rapids Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 5½ </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">16</td> -<td> Below Ugarrowwa’s Station Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 5½ </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">17</td> -<td> Opposite Ugarrowwa’s Station Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 1½ </td> -<td align="right"> 1 </td> -<td align="right">.. </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">28° 0′ 45″ </td> -<td align="right"> N 1° 23′ </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">19</td> -<td> Camp below Bunda Village Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 7 </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">20</td> -<td> Near Lenda R. Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 9 </td> -<td align="right"> 6 </td> -<td align="right">.. </td> -<td align="right">.. </td> -<td align="left">28° 5′ </td> -<td align="right"> N 1° 20′ </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">21</td> -<td> Above Lenda R. Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 2 </td> -<td align="right"> 1 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">22</td> -<td> Umeni Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> 3 </td> -<td align="right">.. </td> -<td align="right">.. </td> -<td align="left">28° 18′ </td> -<td align="right"> N 1° 18′ </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">23</td> -<td> Near Cataract Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 6½ </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">25</td> -<td> Old Arab Camp Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 3 </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">26</td> -<td> Opposite Avetiko Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 3 </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right">.. </td> -<td align="right">.. </td> -<td align="left">28° 20′ 45″ </td> -<td align="right"> N 1° 16′ </td> -<td align="right"> 2548 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">28</td> -<td> Opposite island Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 7 </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right">.. </td> -<td align="right">.. </td> -<td align="left">28° 24′ </td> -<td align="right"> N 1° 13′ </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">30</td> -<td> Native Camp at Ferry Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 8 </td> -<td align="right"> 6 </td> -<td align="right">.. </td> -<td align="right"> 65 hrs.</td> -<td align="left">28° 25′ </td> -<td align="right"> N 1° 11′ </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">October 3</td> -<td> Narrows Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">4</td> -<td> Crossed River to right bankForest </td> -<td align="right"> 1½ </td> -<td align="right"> 1 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">5</td> -<td> Nelson’s Starvation Camp Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 2 </td> -<td align="right"> 1 </td> -<td align="right">.. </td> -<td align="right">.. </td> -<td align="left">28° 30′ </td> -<td align="right"> N 1° 10′ </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td> (recrossed to left bank) </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">6</td> -<td> Camp (Inland) Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 4½ </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">7</td> -<td> Camp on island Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 7 </td> -<td align="right"> 7 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">8</td> -<td> Camp opposite island Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 2 </td> -<td align="right"> 2 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">28° 37′ 45″</td> -<td align="left">N. 1° 10′ </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">11</td> -<td> Camp Forest</td> -<td align="right"> 7 </td> -<td align="right"> 6 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">12</td> -<td> Camp Forest</td> -<td align="right"> 4½ </td> -<td align="right"> 3 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">N. 1° 4′ 26″</td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">14</td> -<td> Crossed Aruwimi River to N. bank Forest </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">28° 43′ 30″</td> -<td align="left">N. 1° 4′ 45″</td> -<td align="right"> 2340 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">15</td> -<td> Camp (Inland) Forest</td> -<td align="right"> 4½ </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">28° 44′ </td> -<td align="left">N. 1° 9′ </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">16</td> -<td> Camp Forest</td> -<td align="right"> 7 </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">17</td> -<td> Camp Forest</td> -<td align="right"> 7 </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">18</td> -<td> Ipoto. Kilonga-Longa’s Station Forest</td> -<td align="right"> 2 </td> -<td align="right"> 2 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">28° 51′ </td> -<td align="left">N. 1° 6′ 11″ </td> -<td align="right"> 2935 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">28</td> -<td> Yumbu Forest</td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> 3 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">29</td> -<td> Busindi Forest</td> -<td align="right"> 6 </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">28° 54′ 45″</td> -<td align="left">N. 1° 9′ </td> -<td align="right"> 2889 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">31</td> -<td> Camp Forest</td> -<td align="right"> 8 </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> 15 </td> -<td align="right">51½hrs.</td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">November 1</td> -<td> Mambungu’s Forest</td> -<td align="right"> 9 </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> 45 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">28° 58′ 45″</td> -<td align="left">N. 1° 13′ 22″</td> -<td align="right"> 2560 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">3</td> -<td> Camp Forest</td> -<td align="right"> 8½ </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> 45 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">4</td> -<td> Ndugubisha Forest</td> -<td align="right"> 5¼ </td> -<td align="right"> 3 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">29° 10′ 45″</td> -<td align="left">N. 1° 14′ 28″</td> -<td align="right"> 3607 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">5</td> -<td> West Indé-karu Forest</td> -<td align="right"> 9¾ </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> 45 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">29° 14′ </td> -<td align="left">N. 1° 19′ </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">6</td> -<td> Indé-karu on Hill Forest</td> -<td align="right"> 2½ </td> -<td align="right"> 1 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">29° 15′ </td> -<td align="left">N. 1° 20′ 15″</td> -<td align="right"> 3810 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">8</td> -<td> Camp Forest</td> -<td align="right"> 11 </td> -<td align="right"> 7 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">9</td> -<td> Camp Forest</td> -<td align="right"> 9½ </td> -<td align="right"> 6 </td> -<td align="right"> 15 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">10</td> -<td> W. Ibwiri (site of Fort Bodo) Forest</td> -<td align="right"> 4¼ </td> -<td align="right"> 2 </td> -<td align="right"> 45 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">29° 25′ </td> -<td align="left">N. 1° 20′ </td> -<td align="right"> 3503 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">24</td> -<td> Camp Forest</td> -<td align="right"> 9 </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> 15 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">25</td> -<td> Indé-mwani Forest</td> -<td align="right"> 8½ </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 3510 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">26</td> -<td> W. Indé-nduru Forest</td> -<td align="right"> 11¼ </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">29° 39′ 15″</td> -<td align="left">N. 1° 22′ </td> -<td align="right"> 3610 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">27</td> -<td> E. Indé-nduru Forest</td> -<td align="right"> 7 </td> -<td align="right"> 3 </td> -<td align="right"> 15 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">29° 41′ </td> -<td align="left">N. 1° 22′ 23″</td> -<td align="right"> 3470 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">29</td> -<td> Baburu Forest</td> -<td align="right"> 10 </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> 15 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 3758 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">30</td> -<td> Bakwuru (Mount Pisgah, 4600 ft.) Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 3¼ </td> -<td align="right"> 2 </td> -<td align="right"> 15 </td> -<td align="right">64½hrs.</td> -<td align="left">29° 46′ </td> -<td align="left">N. 1° 21′ 40″</td> -<td align="right"> 4350 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">December 1 </td> -<td> Three Hut Village Forest</td> -<td align="right"> 10½ </td> -<td align="right"> 6 </td> -<td align="right"> 15 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">N. 1° 26′ </td> -<td align="right"> 3814 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">2</td> -<td> Indé-sura Forest</td> -<td align="right"> 7 </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 15 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">29° 51′ 45″</td> -<td align="left">N. 1° 24′ </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td> (End of the Forest) </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">4</td> -<td> Camp. Cross W. Ituri River </td> -<td align="right"> 8½ </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 2950 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td> (First in the Grass Land) </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">5</td> -<td> Babusessé Villages </td> -<td align="right"> 7 </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">30° 0′ 0″</td> -<td align="left">N. 1° 28′ </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">6</td> -<td> Crossed Ituri or Aruwimi River </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 3470 </td></tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">7</td> -<td>Crossed East Ituri River </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 2 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">8</td> -<td>Undussuma. (Mazamboni’s) </td> -<td align="right"> 13 </td> -<td align="right"> 6 </td> -<td align="right"> 45 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">30° 10′45″</td> -<td align="left">N. 1° 25′15″</td> -<td align="right">4235 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">12</td> -<td>Uzanza or Gavira’s </td> -<td align="right"> 9 </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right">4657 </td></tr> - -<tr><td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left"> (Brow of Plateau overlooking Lake)</td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right">5282 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">13</td> -<td>Lake Plain </td> -<td align="right"> 13 </td> -<td align="right"> 8 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">14</td> -<td>Shore of the Albert Nyanza </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> 2 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">30° 29′ </td> -<td align="left">N. 1° 19′ 6″</td> -<td align="right">2400 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td> {By Aneroid No. 1}</td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right">2235 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td>Altitude of Lake {By Aneroid No. 2}</td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right">2400 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td> above sea. {By Aneroid No. 3}</td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right">2400 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td> {By Hypsometer}</td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right">2245 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td> Balegga Hills above Lake </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right">5353 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td> (<i>Returning from Lake.</i>) </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">16</td> -<td>To foot of Plateau </td> -<td align="right"> 9 </td> -<td align="right"> 6 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">17</td> -<td>Uzanzu (Gavira’s) </td> -<td align="right"> 10 </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 45 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right">4657 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">19</td> -<td>E. Undussuma </td> -<td align="right"> 12 </td> -<td align="right"> 6 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right">4235 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">20</td> -<td>W. Urumangwa </td> -<td align="right"> 12 </td> -<td align="right"> 6 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">21</td> -<td>East Ituri River </td> -<td align="right"> 5½ </td> -<td align="right"> 2 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">23</td> -<td>Main Ituri River </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 2 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">24</td> -<td>To Bridge across River </td> -<td align="right"> 2 </td> -<td align="right"> 1 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">28</td> -<td>Village W. of Mbiri </td> -<td align="right"> 11 </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">29</td> -<td>Indé-sura Edge of Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 8 </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">30</td> -<td>Three Hut Village. Edge of Forest 5 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">31</td> -<td>Imburun Edge of Forest 5 </td> -<td align="right"> 45 </td> -<td align="right"> 31¾hrs.</td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">1888. </td> -<td> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">January 1</td> -<td>Indé-tongo Edge of Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 5½ </td> -<td align="right"> 3 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">29° 42′ </td> -<td align="left">N. 1° 29′ </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">2</td> -<td> Indé-sedi Edge of Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> 3 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">3</td> -<td> Barikunga Edge of Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 7 </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">5</td> -<td> Indé-mwani Edge of Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 9 </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 45 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">6</td> -<td> Pigmies’ Camp Edge of Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 8¼ </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">7</td> -<td> <span class="smcap">Fort Bodo</span> Edge of Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 7½ </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 15 </td> -<td align="right">29¼ hrs.</td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 3503 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">January 16 to<br />April 26</td> -<td align="left"> During Building of Fort Bodo Lt. Stairs<br /> - proceeds to Ipoto and returns</td> -<td align="right"> 157½ </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right">43½ hrs.</td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left"> Then proceeds to Ugarrowwa and back </td> -<td align="right"> 400 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right">60½ hrs.</td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td><span class="smcap">Second Journey To Albert Nyanza.</span></td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">April 2</td> -<td> Camp </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 2 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">3</td> -<td> Pigmies’ Cross Roads Camp Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 8½ </td> -<td align="right"> 6 </td> -<td align="right"> 10 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">4</td> -<td> Indé-mwani Forest</td> -<td align="right"> 5½ </td> -<td align="right"> 3 </td> -<td align="right"> 20 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 3510 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">5</td> -<td> Pigmies’ Camp Forest</td> -<td align="right"> 6½ </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 20 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">6</td> -<td> W. Inde-nduru Forest</td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> 3 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 3610 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">7</td> -<td> E. Inde-nduru Forest</td> -<td align="right"> 7 </td> -<td align="right"> 3 </td> -<td align="right"> 45 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 3470 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">8</td> -<td> Baburu Forest</td> -<td align="right"> 10 </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 3758 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">9</td> -<td> W. Mandé Forest</td> -<td align="right"> 9 </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">10</td> -<td> Ituri River Ferry Forest</td> -<td align="right"> 3½ </td> -<td align="right"> 2 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 3000 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">11</td> -<td> First Camp Grass land </td> -<td align="right"> 7½ </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">12</td> -<td> Bessé Grass land </td> -<td align="right"> 7 </td> -<td align="right"> 3 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 3565 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">13</td> -<td> Near Mukangi Grass land </td> -<td align="right"> 7 </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 3718 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">14</td> -<td> Undussuma Grass land </td> -<td align="right"> 12 </td> -<td align="right"> 6 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 4235 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">16</td> -<td> Uzanza (Gavira’s) Grass land </td> -<td align="right"> 9 </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> 45 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 4657 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">18</td> -<td> Kavalli’s Grass land </td> -<td align="right"> 9 </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">N. 1° 28′ </td> -<td align="right"> 4803 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">25</td> -<td> Bundi Grass land </td> -<td align="right"> 6 </td> -<td align="right"> 3 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">N. 1° 25′ 33″</td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">26</td> -<td> Badzwa. Nyanza Plain Grass land </td> -<td align="right"> 3 </td> -<td align="right"> 2 </td> -<td align="right"> 45 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">30° 24′ </td> -<td align="left">N. 1° 25′ </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">29</td> -<td> Albert Nyanza. Meeting with Emin. </td> -<td align="right"> 7 </td> -<td align="right"> 3 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 2400 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">30</td> -<td> Nsabé--Along Lake shore </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> 3 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right">48½ hrs.</td> -<td align="left">30° 33′ 45″</td> -<td align="left">N. 1° 30′ 15″</td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td></td> -<td align="center"><span class="smcap">In Search of Rear Column</span></td> -<td></td> -<td></td> -<td></td> -<td></td> -<td></td> -<td></td> -<td></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">May 24 </td> -<td> Badzwa </td> -<td align="right"> 10 </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">26</td> -<td> Bundi </td> -<td align="right"> 3 </td> -<td align="right"> 3 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">27</td> -<td> Uzanza (Gavira’s) </td> -<td align="right"> 8 </td> -<td align="right"> 3 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 4657 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">29</td> -<td> Usiri </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> 3 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">30</td> -<td> Undussuma </td> -<td align="right"> 6½ </td> -<td align="right"> 3 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right">29 hrs.</td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 4235 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">June 1 </td> -<td> Mukangi </td> -<td align="right"> 12 </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 3718 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">2</td> -<td> Ukuba, Bessé </td> -<td align="right"> 8 </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 3565 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">3</td> -<td> Ituri River Ferry </td> -<td align="right"> 14½ </td> -<td align="right"> 6 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 3000 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">4</td> -<td> W. Mandé Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 3½ </td> -<td align="right"> 1 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">5</td> -<td> E. Indepessu Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 13 </td> -<td align="right"> 6 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">6</td> -<td> W. Inde-nduru Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 13 </td> -<td align="right"> 6 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 3610 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">7</td> -<td> Pigmies’ Cross Roads Camp Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 13 </td> -<td align="right"> 7 </td> -<td align="right"> 20 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">8</td> -<td> Fort Bodo Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 12 </td> -<td align="right"> 7 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 3503 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">16</td> -<td> Camp Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 11½ </td> -<td align="right"> 7 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">17</td> -<td> Indé-karu on Hill Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 12½ </td> -<td align="right"> 8 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 3810 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">19</td> -<td> Ndugubisha Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 12¼ </td> -<td align="right"> 7 </td> -<td align="right"> 15 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 3607 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">20</td> -<td> Nzalli’s Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 11½ </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> 45 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 2560 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">21</td> -<td> Camp of 31st October Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 12 </td> -<td align="right"> 7 </td> -<td align="right"> 20 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">22</td> -<td> Busindi Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 12 </td> -<td align="right"> 7 </td> -<td align="right"> 20 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 2889 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">23</td> -<td> Ipoto (Arab settlement) Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 7 </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 50 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 2935 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">25</td> -<td> Ituri River Ferry Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 2 </td> -<td align="right"> 15 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">26</td> -<td> Camp of October 14th, 1887 Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 5½ </td> -<td align="right"> 2 </td> -<td align="right"> 45 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">27</td> -<td> Camp Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 11 </td> -<td align="right"> 8 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">28</td> -<td> Nelson’s Starvation Camp Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 10 </td> -<td align="right"> 6 </td> -<td align="right"> 55 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">29</td> -<td> Iyuku Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 8½ </td> -<td align="right"> 7 </td> -<td align="right"> 20 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">30</td> -<td> Camp Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 9 </td> -<td align="right"> 7 </td> -<td align="right"> 45 </td> -<td align="right">43 hrs.</td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">July 1 </td> -<td> Camp Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 3 </td> -<td align="right"> 45 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">2</td> -<td> Camp on Lenda River Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 9 </td> -<td align="right"> 7 </td> -<td align="right"> 50 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">3</td> -<td> Camp on Lenda River Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 6 </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 10 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">5</td> -<td> Crossed Lenda River to Camp Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 7 </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">6</td> -<td> Village Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 7 </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">7</td> -<td> Camp Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 8 </td> -<td align="right"> 6 </td> -<td align="right"> 15 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">8</td> -<td> Bandeya Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 8 </td> -<td align="right"> 6 </td> -<td align="right"> 15 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">9</td> -<td> Ujangwa Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 2¾ </td> -<td align="right"> 2 </td> -<td align="right"> 45 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">10</td> -<td> Camp Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 6 </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">11</td> -<td> Beyond Nuyo Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 3¾ </td> -<td align="right"> 3 </td> -<td align="right"> 45 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">12</td> -<td> Camp Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 3 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">13</td> -<td> Below Ugarrowwa’s Camp Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 8 </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">14</td> -<td> Amiri Falls Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 11 </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">16</td> -<td> Camp of 12th Sept. 1887 Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 16½ </td> -<td align="right"> 7 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">17</td> -<td> Navaiya Rapids Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 10½ </td> -<td align="right"> 3 </td> -<td align="right"> 45 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">20</td> -<td> Avé-yabu (near Bafaido Cataract) Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 13 </td> -<td align="right"> 7 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">21</td> -<td> Bafaido Cataract Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 2 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 1964 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">22</td> -<td> Foot of Cataract Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 15 </td> -<td align="right"> 8 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">23</td> -<td> Basopo Cataract Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 8½ </td> -<td align="right"> 6 </td> -<td align="right"> 15 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">25</td> -<td> Camp at Rapids Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">26</td> -<td> Avé-jeli Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 8½ </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">28</td> -<td> Near Avu-gadu Rapids Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 13 </td> -<td align="right"> 7 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">29</td> -<td> Avu-gadu Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 6 </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">30</td> -<td> Mābengu Village Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 11 </td> -<td align="right"> 6 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">31</td> -<td> Avisibba Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 8 </td> -<td align="right"> 7 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right">61½ hrs. </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">August 2</td> -<td>Camp below Engweddé Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 13 </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">3</td> -<td> Opposite Bapaiya Island Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 9 </td> -<td align="right"> 7 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">4</td> -<td> Panga Falls Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 8½ </td> -<td align="right"> 8 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">7</td> -<td> Opposite Ngula R. mouth Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 11 </td> -<td align="right"> 8 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">8</td> -<td> Opposite Mambanga Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 9 </td> -<td align="right"> 6 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">9</td> -<td> Opposite Myyui Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 9 </td> -<td align="right"> 6 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">10</td> -<td> Camp Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 10 </td> -<td align="right"> 8 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">11</td> -<td> Bandeya Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 9 </td> -<td align="right"> 7 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">12</td> -<td> Batundu (by canoes) Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 16 </td> -<td align="right"> 6 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">13</td> -<td> S. Mupé Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 11 </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">15</td> -<td> Below Mariri Rapids Forest</td> -<td align="right"> 9 </td> -<td align="right"> 10 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">16</td> -<td> Bungangeta Island Forest</td> -<td align="right"> 20 </td> -<td align="right"> 7 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">17</td> -<td> Banalya. Discovery of Rear Column </td> -<td align="right"> 7 </td> -<td align="right"> 1 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td></tr> - -<tr> -<td></td> -<td align="center"><span class="smcap">Third Journey To Albert Nyanza.</span></td> -<td></td> -<td></td> -<td></td> -<td></td> -<td></td> -<td></td> -<td></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">21</td> -<td> Bungangeta Island Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 7 </td> -<td align="right"> 3 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">31</td> -<td> Opposite Central Mariri Forest</td> -<td align="right"> 12 </td> -<td align="right"> 6 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 47 hrs.</td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">September 1</td> -<td> Mariri Rapids Forest</td> -<td align="right"> 8 </td> -<td align="right"> 3 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">2</td> -<td> Upper Mariri Forest</td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">3</td> -<td> S. Mupé Forest</td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> 3 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">5</td> -<td> Batundu Forest</td> -<td align="right"> 11 </td> -<td align="right"> 7 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">8</td> -<td> Elephant Playground Forest</td> -<td align="right"> 10 </td> -<td align="right"> 6 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">9</td> -<td> Below Bandeya Forest</td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">10</td> -<td> Bandeya Forest</td> -<td align="right"> 3 </td> -<td align="right"> 3 </td> -<td align="right"> 45 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">12</td> -<td> Opposite Manginni Forest</td> -<td align="right"> 10 </td> -<td align="right"> 6 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">13</td> -<td> Opposite Myyui Forest</td> -<td align="right"> 9 </td> -<td align="right"> 7 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">14</td> -<td> Opposite Mambanga Forest</td> -<td align="right"> 9 </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">17</td> -<td> Opposite Ngula R. mouth Forest</td> -<td align="right"> 9 </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">18</td> -<td> Opposite Island Forest</td> -<td align="right"> 7 </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 45 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">19</td> -<td> Panga Falls Forest</td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">20</td> -<td> Camp above Falls Forest</td> -<td align="right"> 1½ </td> -<td align="right"> 1 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">21</td> -<td> Nejambi Rapids Forest</td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">24</td> -<td> Camp above Utiri Forest</td> -<td align="right"> 9 </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> 15 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">25</td> -<td> Engweddé Forest</td> -<td align="right"> 9 </td> -<td align="right"> 6 </td> -<td align="right"> 45 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">26</td> -<td> Avisibba Forest</td> -<td align="right"> 7 </td> -<td align="right"> 3 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">27</td> -<td> Foot of Mabengu Rapids Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 9 </td> -<td align="right"> 6 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">29</td> -<td> Upper Mabengu Rapids Forest</td> -<td align="right"> 2½ </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">30</td> -<td> Upper Rapids of Avu-gadu Forest</td> -<td align="right"> 10½ </td> -<td align="right">10 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right">10½ hrs.</td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">October 1</td> -<td> Ave-jeli Forest</td> -<td align="right"> 17 </td> -<td align="right"> 7 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">2</td> -<td> Little Rapids Forest</td> -<td align="right"> 8½ </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">4</td> -<td> Bavikai, N. bank Forest</td> -<td align="right"> 6 </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">27° 34′ </td> -<td align="left">N. 1° 38′ </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">7</td> -<td> Basopo Cataract, S. Bank Forest</td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 3 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">8</td> -<td> Foot of Cataract Forest</td> -<td align="right"> 6 </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">9</td> -<td> Top of Rapids Forest</td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 3 </td> -<td align="right"> 15 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 1980</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">10</td> -<td> Hippo Broads Forest</td> -<td align="right"> 3 </td> -<td align="right"> 1 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 1916</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">11</td> -<td> Bafaido Cataract Forest</td> -<td align="right"> 8 </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 1964</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">13</td> -<td> Ave-yabu Forest</td> -<td align="right"> 9 </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">14</td> -<td> Navaiya Rapids Forest</td> -<td align="right"> 7 </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">16</td> -<td> Navabi Cataract Forest</td> -<td align="right"> 3½ </td> -<td align="right"> 3 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">17</td> -<td> Above Navabi Village Forest</td> -<td align="right"> 6 </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">18</td> -<td> Foot of Amiri Falls Forest</td> -<td align="right"> 6½ </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">19</td> -<td> Top of Amiri Falls Forest</td> -<td align="right"> 1 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">22</td> -<td> Rapids Forest</td> -<td align="right"> 5½ </td> -<td align="right"> 3 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">23</td> -<td> Ugarrowwa’s. N. bank Forest</td> -<td align="right"> 8 </td> -<td align="right"> 6 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">24</td> -<td> Bunda N. bank Forest</td> -<td align="right"> 9 </td> -<td align="right"> 6 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">25</td> -<td> Opposite Lenda R. N. bank Forest</td> -<td align="right"> 10 </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">26</td> -<td> Big Rapids N. bank Forest</td> -<td align="right"> 7½ </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">27</td> -<td> Above Cataract N. bank Forest</td> -<td align="right"> 8 </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">28</td> -<td> W. Ave-tiko N. bank Forest</td> -<td align="right"> 5½ </td> -<td align="right"> 3 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 2548</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">30</td> -<td> Camp (inland) Forest</td> -<td align="right"> 7 </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">31</td> -<td> Camp near Epeni R. Forest</td> -<td align="right"> 6 </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> 39 hrs. </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 2815</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">November 1</td> -<td> Andaki Forest</td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> 3 </td> -<td align="right"> 45 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">28° 25′ </td> -<td align="left">N. 1° 16′ 35″ </td> -<td align="right"> 2907</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">3</td> -<td> Camp Forest</td> -<td align="right"> 7 </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">4</td> -<td> Camp Forest</td> -<td align="right"> 8 </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> 45 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">N. 1° 16′ 38″ </td> -<td align="right"> 3051</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">5</td> -<td> Camp Forest</td> -<td align="right"> 9¼ </td> -<td align="right"> 6 </td> -<td align="right"> 45 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">N. 1° 19′ 0″ </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">6</td> -<td> Camp Forest</td> -<td align="right"> 8 </td> -<td align="right"> 6 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">11</td> -<td> Camp Forest</td> -<td align="right"> 3½ </td> -<td align="right"> 2 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">28° 42′ 15″ </td> -<td align="left">N. 1° 17′ 30″ </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">12</td> -<td> Camp Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 9 </td> -<td align="right"> 6 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">13</td> -<td> Camp Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 8½ </td> -<td align="right"> 6 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">14</td> -<td> Andikumu Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 6½ </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">28° 54′ </td> -<td align="left">N. 1° 29′ 15″</td> -<td align="right"> 3414 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">19</td> -<td> Camp Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 4½ </td> -<td align="right"> 3 </td> -<td align="right"> 45 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">20</td> -<td> Camp Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">21</td> -<td> Camp Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 7½ </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">22</td> -<td> Camp Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 8¼ </td> -<td align="right"> 6 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">29° 2′ </td> -<td align="left">N. 1° 44′ </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">23</td> -<td> Camp Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 3½ </td> -<td align="right"> 2 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">25</td> -<td> Indé-mau Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 6¼ </td> -<td align="right"> 3 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right">35¾ hrs.</td> -<td align="left">29° 7′ 45″</td> -<td align="left">N. 1° 47′ 16″</td> -<td align="right"> 3635 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">December 1</td> -<td> Dui River Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 9 </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 3296 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">2</td> -<td> Andi-uba Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 9 </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 3360 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">3</td> -<td> Addi-guhha Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 6 </td> -<td align="right"> 3 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">29° 18′ 30″</td> -<td align="left">N. 1° 39′ </td> -<td align="right"> 3462 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">4</td> -<td> Ngwetza Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 7¾ </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 3565 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">6</td> -<td> Camp Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 7½ </td> -<td align="right"> 6 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">7</td> -<td> Camp Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 7 </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 3600 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">8</td> -<td> Starvation Camp Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 8½ </td> -<td align="right"> 6 </td> -<td align="right"> 15 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">29° 21′ 30″</td> -<td align="left">N. 1° 27′ 15″</td> -<td align="right"> 3472 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">15</td> -<td> Camp of 7th December Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 8½ </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">16</td> -<td> Starvation Camp Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 8½ </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">17</td> -<td> Ihuru River Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> 3 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 3380 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">18</td> -<td> Camp Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> 3 </td> -<td align="right"> 45 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">19</td> -<td> Plantations of Fort Bodo Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 6 </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">20</td> -<td> Fort Bodo Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 3 </td> -<td align="right"> 2 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 3503 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">23</td> -<td> Pigmies’ Cross Roads Camp Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 9 </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 3683 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">24</td> -<td> Pigmies’ Camp Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> 2 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 3865 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td> (A portion of the Column proceeds<br /> -from Fort Bodo to Ituri River<br /> -and returns to Pigmies’ Camp)</td> -<td align="right">106½ </td> -<td align="right">52 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right">16½ hrs.</td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">1889. </td> -<td> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">January 4 </td> -<td> Indé-mwani Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> 3 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 3510 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">5</td> -<td> Near W. Indé-nduru Forest</td> -<td align="right"> 10 </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> 50 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 3610 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">6</td> -<td> Beyond E. Indé-nduru Forest</td> -<td align="right"> 8 </td> -<td align="right"> 3 </td> -<td align="right"> 55 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 3470 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">7</td> -<td> Mount Pisgah Forest</td> -<td align="right"> 9½ </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 40 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 4600 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">9</td> -<td> Ituri River Ferry Forest</td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 7 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 3 45 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 3000 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">10</td> -<td> Kandekoré Forest</td> -<td align="right"> ½ </td> -<td align="right"> 15 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 3464 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">11</td> -<td> First Camp Grass Land </td> -<td align="right"> 6¼ </td> -<td align="right"> 3 </td> -<td align="right"> 10 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 3718 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">12</td> -<td> Bessé Grass Land </td> -<td align="right"> 6 </td> -<td align="right"> 2 </td> -<td align="right"> 50 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 3565 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">13</td> -<td> Near Mukangi Grass Land </td> -<td align="right"> 9¾ </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 50 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">14</td> -<td> Undussuma Grass Land </td> -<td align="right"> 8 </td> -<td align="right"> 3 </td> -<td align="right"> 50 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 4235 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">16</td> -<td> Uzanza. (Gavira’s) Grass Land </td> -<td align="right"> 9 </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 4657 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">18</td> -<td> <span class="smcap">Kavalli’s. Rescue Of Emin Pasha </span></td> -<td align="right"> 8 </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 10 </td> -<td align="right"> 9 hrs. </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 4803 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td> Height of Balegga Hills </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 5591 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td>{To Nyanza and back (26 miles), performed}</td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right">Feb. 11 hrs.</td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td>{19 separate times}</td> -<td align="right"> 494 </td> -<td align="right"></td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right">Mar. 10½ hrs. </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td> Journey to Ituri River and back </td> -<td align="right"> 94 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="center"><span class="smcap">Retreatto The Sea.</span> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> - -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">April 10 </td> -<td> To Gavira’s from Kavalli </td> -<td align="right"> 8 </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 10 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 4657 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">12</td> -<td> Undussuma </td> -<td align="right"> 9 </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> 43 hrs. </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 4235 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">May 8 </td> -<td> Buryambiri </td> -<td align="right"> 7 </td> -<td align="right"> 3 </td> -<td align="right"> 45 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">9</td> -<td> Ujungwa, central </td> -<td align="right"> 6½ </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 15 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 4100 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">10</td> -<td> Utinda </td> -<td align="right"> 7 </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">11</td> -<td> Buhobo </td> -<td align="right"> 6½ </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 15 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">30° 8′ 30″</td> -<td align="left">N. 1° 11′ </td> -<td align="right"> 4966 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">12</td> -<td> Mboga </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> 3 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">30° 8′ 15″</td> -<td align="left">N. 1° 3′ </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">14</td> -<td> Kiryama </td> -<td align="right"> 6 </td> -<td align="right"> 3 </td> -<td align="right"> 45 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">30° 11′ 45″</td> -<td align="left">N. 1° 0′ 30″</td> -<td align="right"> 2900 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">17</td> -<td> Awamba Ferry. Semliki R. </td> -<td align="right"> 10 </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 45 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">30° 11′ 45″</td> -<td align="left">N. 0° 53′ 45″</td> -<td align="right"> 2450 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">20</td> -<td> Large Village. <span class="smcap">Awamba</span>Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 2½ </td> -<td align="right"> 1 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">22</td> -<td> Small Village Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 8 </td> -<td align="right"> 6 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">23</td> -<td> Baki Kundi Forest </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 2 </td> -<td align="right"> 15 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">30° 11′ 45″</td> -<td align="left">N. 0° 47′ 3″</td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">25</td> -<td> Village Forest</td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 2 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">26</td> -<td> Ugarania. Edge of Forest Forest</td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> 3 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">30° 14′ 45″</td> -<td align="left">N. 0° 45′ 49″</td> -<td align="right"> 2942</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">29</td> -<td> Butama </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 2 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">N. 0° 38′ 48″</td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">30</td> -<td> Bukoko </td> -<td align="right"> 7 </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right">64¾ hrs.</td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">N. 0° 40′ </td> -<td align="right"> 3345</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">June 2</td> -<td> Banzombe </td> -<td align="right"> 8 </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">N. 0° 38′ </td> -<td align="right"> 3050</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">3</td> -<td> Bakokoro </td> -<td align="right"> 3 </td> -<td align="right"> 3 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">N. 0° 37′ </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">5</td> -<td> Mtarega </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 2 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">N. 0° 29′ </td> -<td align="right"> 3864</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="center"> Stairs’s Highest ascent to below Twin Cones </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right">10,677</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">9</td> -<td> Forest Camp </td> -<td align="right"> 7 </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 45 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 3200</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">10</td> -<td> Ulegga. <span class="smcap">Ukonju</span> </td> -<td align="right"> 6¼ </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">N. 0° 20′ 39″</td> -<td align="right"> 4500</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">11</td> -<td> Mtsora </td> -<td align="right"> 7 </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">29° 46′ 45″</td> -<td align="left">N. 0° 15′ </td> -<td align="right"> 3990</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="center"> Plain, Ancient bed of Lake below Mtsora </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 3643</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">14</td> -<td> Muhamba. <span class="smcap">Usongora</span> </td> -<td align="right"> 10 </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="center"> Upper Semliki River nearly opposite </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 3401</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">15</td> -<td> Karimi </td> -<td align="right"> 8½ </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">29° 49′ </td> -<td align="left">N. 0° 4′ 30″</td> -<td align="right"> 4850</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">16</td> -<td> Rusessé. <span class="smcap">Albert Edw. Lake--usongora</span> </td> -<td align="right"> 11 </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 45 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">29° 53′ 30″</td> -<td align="left">N. 0° 2′ 30″</td> -<td align="right"> 3710</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">17</td> -<td> Katwé </td> -<td align="right"> 12 </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 20 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">30° 1′ 30″</td> -<td align="left">S. 0° 8′ 15″</td> -<td align="right"> 3461</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left"> Lake Albert Edward </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 3307</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left"> Salt Lake </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 3265</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">20</td> -<td> Mukungu </td> -<td align="right"> 18½ </td> -<td align="right"> 6 </td> -<td align="right"> 45 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">30° 11′ 30″</td> -<td align="left">S. 0° 1′ 30″</td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">21</td> -<td> Muhokya </td> -<td align="right"> 11 </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">30° 11′ 30″</td> -<td align="left">N. 0° 8′ </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">22</td> -<td> Buruli. <span class="smcap">Albert Edward Lake--toro.</span> </td> -<td align="right"> 10¼ </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 15 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">30° 16′ 15″</td> -<td align="left">N. 0° 13′ </td> -<td align="right"> 3320</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">25</td> -<td> Nsongi River </td> -<td align="right"> 12 </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> 45 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">30° 20′ 30″</td> -<td align="left">N. 0° 19′ </td> -<td align="right"> 3320</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">26</td> -<td> Kavandaré </td> -<td align="right"> 7½ </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">30° 24′ 45″</td> -<td align="left">N. 0° 15′ 30″</td> -<td align="right"> 3875</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">28</td> -<td> Camp </td> -<td align="right"> 6½ </td> -<td align="right"> 3 </td> -<td align="right"> 45 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">N. 0° 12′ </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">29</td> -<td> Chamlērikwa </td> -<td align="right"> 6½ </td> -<td align="right"> 3 </td> -<td align="right"> 45 </td> -<td align="right">7½ hrs.</td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">July 1</td> -<td> Kasunga-Nyanza </td> -<td align="right"> 6 </td> -<td align="right"> 3 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">30° 22′ 30″</td> -<td align="left">N. 0° 0′ 45″</td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">3</td> -<td> Katari. <span class="smcap">Ankori</span> </td> -<td align="right"> 9 </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 15 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">4</td> -<td> Kiteté </td> -<td align="right"> 8 </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 45 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">30° 19′ 45″</td> -<td align="left">S. 0° 11′ 45″</td> -<td align="right"> 4329</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">5</td> -<td> Kibwiga </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> 3 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 5260</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td> Kinya magara ridge </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 6160</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">6</td> -<td> Buzimba </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> 2 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">30° 28′ </td> -<td align="left">S. 0° 10′ </td> -<td align="right"> 5002</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">9</td> -<td> Kitega </td> -<td align="right"> 9 </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 45 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">30° 31′ 30″</td> -<td align="left">S. 0° 16′ </td> -<td align="right"> 5750</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">10</td> -<td> Katara </td> -<td align="right"> 6 </td> -<td align="right"> 3 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">30° 31′ </td> -<td align="left">S. 0° 23′ 15″</td> -<td align="right"> 5355</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">11</td> -<td> Wamaganga </td> -<td align="right"> 5½ </td> -<td align="right"> 2 </td> -<td align="right"> 45 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">S. 0° 32′ 15″</td> -<td align="right"> 4960</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">12</td> -<td> Kasari </td> -<td align="right"> 7 </td> -<td align="right"> 3 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 4860</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">14</td> -<td> Nyamatoso </td> -<td align="right"> 10½ </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">30° 42′ 30″</td> -<td align="left">S. 0° 36′ 30″</td> -<td align="right"> 4860</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">17</td> -<td> Kasussu </td> -<td align="right"> 10 </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 45 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">S. 0° 41′ </td> -<td align="right"> 5300</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">21</td> -<td> Namianja </td> -<td align="right"> 6 </td> -<td align="right"> 3 </td> -<td align="right"> 15 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">30° 47′ 30″</td> -<td align="left">S. 0° 43′ </td> -<td align="right"> 4890</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">22</td> -<td> Viaruha </td> -<td align="right"> 6 </td> -<td align="right"> 3 </td> -<td align="right"> 15 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">30° 51′ </td> -<td align="left">S. 0° 45′ 15″</td> -<td align="right"> 4835</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">24</td> -<td> Mavona </td> -<td align="right"> 8 </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 15 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">30° 54′ </td> -<td align="left">S. 0° 46′ 45″</td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">25</td> -<td> Alexandra Nile </td> -<td align="right"> 11 </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">26</td> -<td> Ferry across River (Alexandra Nile) </td> -<td align="right"> 1½ </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 45 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">30° 56′ 30″</td> -<td align="left">S. 0° 57′ 45″</td> -<td align="right"> 4150</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">28</td> -<td> Unya Katera. <span class="smcap">Karagwe</span> </td> -<td align="right"> 6 </td> -<td align="right"> 2 </td> -<td align="right"> 50 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">30° 58′ 15″</td> -<td align="left">S. 1° 5′ 45″</td> -<td align="right"> 4460</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">29</td> -<td> Hot Springs, Mtagata </td> -<td align="right"> 11 </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">31° 0′ </td> -<td align="left">S. 1° 9′ 10″</td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">31</td> -<td> Kirurumo </td> -<td align="right"> 9 </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 4890</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">August 1</td> -<td> Buteté </td> -<td align="right"> 10 </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">31° 7′ 15″</td> -<td align="left">S. 1° 23′ </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">2</td> -<td> Kivona </td> -<td align="right"> 11 </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">31° 11′ </td> -<td align="left">S. 1° 30′ 15″</td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">3</td> -<td> Kafurro </td> -<td align="right"> 12 </td> -<td align="right"> 6 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">S. 1° 39′ 45″</td> -<td align="right"> 4720</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">7</td> -<td> Rozaka </td> -<td align="right"> 10 </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 5160</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">8</td> -<td> Utenga </td> -<td align="right"> 7 </td> -<td align="right"> 3 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 5000</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">10</td> -<td> Urigi Lake </td> -<td align="right"> 9 </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">31° 25′ 45″</td> -<td align="left">S. 1° 55′ 15″</td> -<td align="right"> 3930</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">11</td> -<td> Urigi Lake, Kavari. <span class="smcap">Ihangiro</span> </td> -<td align="right"> 9½ </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 45 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">31° 29′ </td> -<td align="left">S. 2° 0′ </td> -<td align="right"> 3930</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">12</td> -<td> Urigi Lake, Mutara </td> -<td align="right"> 7 </td> -<td align="right"> 3 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">31° 31′ 45″</td> -<td align="left">S. 2° 7′ 15″</td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">13</td> -<td> Ngoti </td> -<td align="right"> 10 </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">S. 2° 11′ 30″</td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">15</td> -<td> Kimwani, Victoria Nyanza. <span class="smcap">Uzinja</span> </td> -<td align="right"> 10 </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">31° 48′ 45″</td> -<td align="left">S. 2° 17′ 30″</td> -<td align="right"> 4220</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">18</td> -<td> Nyamagoju, Victoria Nyanza </td> -<td align="right"> 12 </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 45 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">31° 46′ 30″</td> -<td align="left">S. 2° 19′ 30″</td> -<td align="right"> 3900</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">19</td> -<td> Kisaho, Victoria Nyanza. <span class="smcap">Uzinja</span>, </td> -<td align="right"> 13 </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 45 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">31° 51′ 45″</td> -<td align="left">S. 2° 30′ </td> -<td align="right"> 3900</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">20</td> -<td> Itari, Victoria Nyanza </td> -<td align="right"> 13½ </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">31° 54′ </td> -<td align="left">S. 2° 37′ 30″</td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">21</td> -<td> Amranda, Victoria Nyanza </td> -<td align="right"> 12½ </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">31° 56′ 30″</td> -<td align="left">S. 2° 48′ </td> -<td align="right"> 3860 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">22</td> -<td> Bwanga </td> -<td align="right"> 11 </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">31° 58′ 15″</td> -<td align="left">S. 2° 56′ </td> -<td align="right"> 3960 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">23</td> -<td> Uyombi </td> -<td align="right"> 18 </td> -<td align="right"> 6 </td> -<td align="right"> 45 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">32° 12′ 15″</td> -<td align="left">S. 3° 0′ </td> -<td align="right"> 4190 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">25</td> -<td> Kamwaga </td> -<td align="right"> 12½ </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">32° 22′ 15″</td> -<td align="left">S. 3° 0′ </td> -<td align="right"> 4560 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">26</td> -<td> Umpeké </td> -<td align="right"> 13 </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">32° 30′ 45″</td> -<td align="left">S. 3° 2′ </td> -<td align="right"> 4660 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">27</td> -<td> French Mission. <span class="smcap">Usambiror</span> </td> -<td align="right"> 15 </td> -<td align="right"> 6 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">32° 42′ 45″</td> -<td align="left">S. 2° 59′ 15″</td> -<td align="right"> 4410 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">28</td> -<td> English Mission, Victoria Nyanza (Makolo’s)</td> -<td align="right"> 13 </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 45 </td> -<td align="right"> 15 min.</td> -<td align="left">32° 48′ 45″</td> -<td align="left">S. 3° 1′ 45″</td> -<td align="right"> 4010 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">September 17</td> -<td> Muzimu, Victoria Nyanza </td> -<td align="right"> 7½ </td> -<td align="right"> 3 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">18</td> -<td> Gengé, near Victoria Nyanza </td> -<td align="right"> 8½ </td> -<td align="right"> 3 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">32° 56′ 45″</td> -<td align="left">S. 2° 53′ 45″</td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">19</td> -<td> Kungu, Urima. <span class="smcap">Usukuma</span> </td> -<td align="right"> 10½ </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">20</td> -<td> Ikoma, Urima </td> -<td align="right"> 8½ </td> -<td align="right"> 3 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">S. 3° 6′ 30″</td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">21</td> -<td> Muanza, Nera </td> -<td align="right"> 9 </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">33° 16′ 15″</td> -<td align="left">S. 3° 12′ </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">22</td> -<td> Seké, Nera </td> -<td align="right"> 13 </td> -<td align="right"> 6 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 4160 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">23</td> -<td> Seke Kwikuru </td> -<td align="right"> 6½ </td> -<td align="right"> 3 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">33° 28′ 30″</td> -<td align="left">S. 3° 24′ </td> -<td align="right"> 4410 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">25</td> -<td> Sinyanga </td> -<td align="right"> 12 </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">33° 25′ 45″</td> -<td align="left">S. 3° 31′ 30″</td> -<td align="right"> 4035 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">26</td> -<td> Sinyanga Kwikuru </td> -<td align="right"> 3 </td> -<td align="right"> 1 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">27</td> -<td> Kizumbu </td> -<td align="right"> 11½ </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">28</td> -<td> Masari’s </td> -<td align="right"> 10 </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">33° 24′ 45″</td> -<td align="left">S. 3° 32′ 54″</td> -<td align="right"> 3810 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">29</td> -<td> Usongo N. </td> -<td align="right"> 22 </td> -<td align="right"> 9 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 4660 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">October 1</td> -<td> Usongo Central </td> -<td align="right"> 3 </td> -<td align="right"> 1 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">33° 26′ </td> -<td align="left">S. 4° 5′ </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">9</td> -<td> Nyawa </td> -<td align="right"> 11 </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 15 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">10</td> -<td> Simgwizi </td> -<td align="right"> 8 </td> -<td align="right"> 3 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">11</td> -<td> Mana Tombolo </td> -<td align="right"> 11½ </td> -<td align="right"> 3 </td> -<td align="right"> 45 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">S. 4° 35′ </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">13</td> -<td> Camp in Wilderness Water in pits </td> -<td align="right"> 11½ </td> -<td align="right"> 3 </td> -<td align="right"> 45 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">14</td> -<td> Camp in Wilderness Water in pits </td> -<td align="right"> 10 </td> -<td align="right"> 3 </td> -<td align="right"> 15 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 4110 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">15</td> -<td> Camp in Wilderness Water in pits </td> -<td align="right"> 16 </td> -<td align="right"> 6 </td> -<td align="right"> 15 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 3810 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">16</td> -<td> N. Ikungu Water in pits </td> -<td align="right"> 12 </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">33° 56′ 30″</td> -<td align="left">S. 5° 14′ 30″</td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">17</td> -<td> Ikungu Kwikuru Water in pits</td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 1 </td> -<td align="right"> 45 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">20</td> -<td> Camp in Wilderness Water in pits </td> -<td align="right"> 18 </td> -<td align="right"> 7 </td> -<td align="right"> 10 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">21</td> -<td> Camp in Wilderness Water in pits </td> -<td align="right"> 7½ </td> -<td align="right"> 3 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">S. 5° 26′ </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">22</td> -<td> Camp in Wilderness Water in pits </td> -<td align="right"> 6 </td> -<td align="right"> 2 </td> -<td align="right"> 10 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">23</td> -<td> Makomero (Utaturu) </td> -<td align="right"> 15½ </td> -<td align="right"> 6 </td> -<td align="right"> 15 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">24</td> -<td> Camp in Wilderness </td> -<td align="right"> 14 </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">25</td> -<td> Kapalata </td> -<td align="right"> 3 </td> -<td align="right"> 1 </td> -<td align="right"> 10 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="left">34° 42′</td> -<td align="left">S. 5° 40′ 30″</td> -<td align="right"> 4398</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">26</td> -<td> Muhalala. <span class="smcap">Ugogo</span></td> -<td align="right"> 12½ </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 3770</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">28</td> -<td> Mtiwi (Unyangwira)</td> -<td align="right"> 11 </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 15 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 3050</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">29</td> -<td> Makenge’s (Unyangwira) </td> -<td align="right"> 8 </td> -<td align="right"> 3 </td> -<td align="right"> 15 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 2900</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">30</td> -<td> Kitinku (Unyangwira) </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> 2 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">31</td> -<td> Camp near Water Pits </td> -<td align="right"> 6½ </td> -<td align="right"> 2 </td> -<td align="right"> 45 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">November 1</td> -<td> Magombya </td> -<td align="right"> 13½ </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">2</td> -<td> Camp near Water Pits </td> -<td align="right"> 15 </td> -<td align="right"> 6 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 3900</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">3</td> -<td> Njassa </td> -<td align="right"> 10½ </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 3600</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">4</td> -<td> Ipala </td> -<td align="right"> 7½ </td> -<td align="right"> 2 </td> -<td align="right"> 45 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">5</td> -<td> Massanga </td> -<td align="right"> 10½ </td> -<td align="right"> 3 </td> -<td align="right"> 45 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 3600</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">8</td> -<td> Camp near Water Pits Desert</td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> 2 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">9</td> -<td> Khambi Usagara</td> -<td align="right"> 18 </td> -<td align="right"> 6 </td> -<td align="right"> 50 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 2900</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">10</td> -<td> Mpwapwa. <span class="smcap">German E. Africa</span>. Usagara</td> -<td align="right"> 11½ </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">13</td> -<td> Tubugwé Usagara</td> -<td align="right"> 11 </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 15 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 3350</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">14</td> -<td> Mtoni Usagara</td> -<td align="right"> 8 </td> -<td align="right"> 3 </td> -<td align="right"> 15 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">15</td> -<td> Kideté Usagara</td> -<td align="right"> 10 </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 15 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 2400</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">16</td> -<td> Kirassa Usagara</td> -<td align="right"> 9 </td> -<td align="right"> 3 </td> -<td align="right"> 45 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">17</td> -<td> Muinyi Usagara</td> -<td align="right"> 6½ </td> -<td align="right"> 2 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 1900</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">19</td> -<td> Ferahani Usagara</td> -<td align="right"> 14 </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> 45 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">20</td> -<td> Waziri Useguhha</td> -<td align="right"> 7 </td> -<td align="right"> 2 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 1425</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">21</td> -<td> Makata River Usagara</td> -<td align="right"> 15 </td> -<td align="right"> 6 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">22</td> -<td> Vianzi Usagara</td> -<td align="right"> 9 </td> -<td align="right"> 3 </td> -<td align="right"> 45 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">23</td> -<td> Simbamwenni Usagara</td> -<td align="right"> 11½ </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 1750</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">25</td> -<td> E. Simbamwenni Usagara</td> -<td align="right"> 7 </td> -<td align="right"> 2 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">26</td> -<td> Mikessé Useguhha </td> -<td align="right"> 13 </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">27</td> -<td> Ungerengeri River Usagara </td> -<td align="right"> 14½ </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 500 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">28</td> -<td> Msua Usagara </td> -<td align="right"> 17 </td> -<td align="right"> 6 </td> -<td align="right"> 45 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 350 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">December 1</td> -<td> Mbiki </td> -<td align="right"> 15 </td> -<td align="right"> 6 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> 250 </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">2</td> -<td> Mbuyuni </td> -<td align="right"> 6½ </td> -<td align="right"> 2 </td> -<td align="right"> 30 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">3</td> -<td> Kibiro </td> -<td align="right"> 12½ </td> -<td align="right"> 5 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">4</td> -<td> Bagamoyo </td> -<td align="right"> 10½ </td> -<td align="right"> 4 </td> -<td align="right"> 15 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td align="right">6</td> -<td> Zanzibar Island by Sea </td> -<td align="right"> 25 </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td> -<td align="right"> </td></tr> - -</table> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_513" id="page_513"></a>{513}</span></p> - -<h3><a name="APENDIX_D" id="APENDIX_D"></a>APENDIX D.</h3> - -<p class="cb">STATEMENT OF THE EMIN PASHA RELIEF FUND.</p> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="1" cellspacing="0" summary="" - class="tbl"> -<tr><td>Receipts From Subscribers.</td><td align="right">£</td><td align="right">s.</td><td align="right">d.</td></tr> -<tr><td>Egyptian Government</td><td align="right">14,000</td><td align="right">0</td><td align="right">0</td></tr> -<tr><td>Sir William Mackinnon, Bart.</td><td align="right">3,000</td><td align="right">0</td><td align="right">0</td></tr> -<tr><td>Peter Mackinnon, Esq.</td><td align="right">1,500</td><td align="right">0</td><td align="right">0</td></tr> -<tr><td>Peter Bonny, Esq., of Dumbarton</td><td align="right">1,500</td><td align="right">0</td><td align="right">0</td></tr> -<tr><td>Baroness Burdett-Coutts</td><td align="right">100</td><td align="right">0</td><td align="right">0</td></tr> -<tr><td>James Sligo Jameson, Esq.</td><td align="right">1,000</td><td align="right">0</td><td align="right">0</td></tr> -<tr><td>Countess de Noailles</td><td align="right">1,000</td><td align="right">0</td><td align="right">0</td></tr> -<tr><td>Gray, Dawes & Co., London</td><td align="right">1,500</td><td align="right">0</td><td align="right">0</td></tr> -<tr><td>J. Mackinnon, Esq.</td><td align="right">450</td><td align="right">0</td><td align="right">0</td></tr> -<tr><td>H. T. Younger, Esq., of Benmore</td><td align="right">500</td><td align="right">0</td><td align="right">0</td></tr> -<tr><td>Duncan MacNeil, Esq.</td><td align="right">1,050</td><td align="right">0</td><td align="right">0</td></tr> -<tr><td>Alexander L. Bruce, Esq., Edinburgh</td><td align="right">750</td><td align="right">0</td><td align="right">0</td></tr> -<tr><td>James F. Hutton, Esq., Manchester</td><td align="right">250</td><td align="right">0</td><td align="right">0</td></tr> -<tr><td>Royal Geographical Society</td><td align="right">1,000</td><td align="right">0</td><td align="right">0</td></tr> -<tr><td>W. Burdett-Coutts, Esq.</td><td align="right">400</td><td align="right">0</td><td align="right">0</td></tr> -<tr><td>J. M. Hall, Esq.</td><td align="right">375</td><td align="right">0</td><td align="right">0</td></tr> -<tr><td>N. MacMichael, Esq.</td><td align="right">375</td><td align="right">0</td><td align="right">0</td></tr> -<tr><td>J. Siltzer, Esq.</td><td align="right">100</td><td align="right">0</td><td align="right">0</td></tr> -<tr><td>Sir Thomas Fowell Buxton</td><td align="right">250</td><td align="right">0</td><td align="right">0</td></tr> -<tr><td>Col. J. A. Grant</td><td align="right">100</td><td align="right">0</td><td align="right">0</td></tr> -<tr><td>W. P. Alexander, Esq.</td><td align="right">250</td><td align="right">0</td><td align="right">0</td></tr> -<tr><td>A. F. Walter, Esq., of the <i>Times</i></td><td align="right">500</td><td align="right">0</td><td align="right">0</td></tr> -</table> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="1" cellspacing="0" summary="" - class="tbl"> -<tr><td colspan="4">Received from newspapers on account of letters from H. M. Stanley:</td></tr> -<tr><td><i>Daily News</i>, London</td><td align="right">£500</td><td align="right">0</td><td align="right">0</td></tr> -<tr><td><i>Standard</i>, London</td><td align="right">250</td><td align="right">0</td><td align="right">0</td></tr> -<tr><td><i>Daily Telegraph</i>, London</td><td align="right">200</td><td align="right">0</td><td align="right">0</td></tr> -<tr><td><i>Manchester Guardian</i></td><td align="right">200</td><td align="right">0</td><td align="right">0</td></tr> -<tr><td><i>Scotsman</i>, Edinburgh</td><td align="right">200</td><td align="right">0</td><td align="right">0</td></tr> -<tr><td> </td><td colspan="3" align="center" class="bt"> </td> -<td align="right">1,350</td><td align="right">0</td><td align="right">0</td></tr> -</table> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="1" cellspacing="0" summary="" - class="tbl"> - -<tr><td>H. M. Stanley, refund of cash received from Boyts & Co., Suez</td><td align="right">597</td><td align="right">4</td><td align="right">1</td></tr> -<tr><td>Eastern Telegraph Co., refund of half rates on Zanzibar Telegrams</td><td align="right">167</td><td align="right">4</td><td align="right">6</td></tr> -<tr><td>Interest on deposits, Ransome & Co.</td><td align="right">171</td><td align="right">6</td><td align="right">4</td></tr> -<tr><td>Gray, Dawes & Co., refund of Transport</td><td align="right">489</td><td align="right">0</td><td align="right">11</td></tr> -<tr><td>B. Edgington, refund from bills</td><td align="right">5</td><td align="right">6</td><td align="right">10</td></tr> -<tr><td>Messrs. S. Allnatt</td><td align="right">3</td><td align="right">0</td><td align="right">0</td></tr> -<tr><td>Rev. S. Stevenson</td><td align="right">2</td><td align="right">2</td><td align="right">0</td></tr> -<tr><td>African Trading Company (sale of Stores)</td><td align="right">152</td><td align="right">12</td><td align="right">2</td></tr> -<tr><td>Gray, Dawes & Co., amount refunded</td><td align="right">30</td><td align="right">15</td><td align="right">2</td></tr> -<tr><td>Lord Kinnaird</td><td align="right">100</td><td align="right">0</td><td align="right">0</td></tr> -<tr><td>Sampson Low, Marston, Searle & Rivington, Limited</td><td align="right">250</td><td align="right">0</td><td align="right">0</td></tr> -<tr><td> </td><td align="right" - class="btb">£33,268</td><td align="right" class="btb">12</td><td align="right" class="btb">0</td></tr> -</table> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="1" cellspacing="0" summary="" - class="tbl"> -<tr><td align="center">Expenses.</td><td align="right">£</td><td align="right"><i>s.</i></td><td align="right"><i>d.</i></td></tr> -<tr><td>Transport and Travelling Expenses</td><td align="right">7,202</td><td align="right">3</td><td align="right">5</td></tr> -<tr><td>Stores</td><td align="right">5,046</td><td align="right">8</td><td align="right">4</td></tr> -<tr><td>Expedition Equipment</td><td align="right">2,307</td><td align="right">15</td><td align="right">7</td></tr> -<tr><td>Wages advanced to Porters</td><td align="right">2,027</td><td align="right">15</td><td align="right">4</td></tr> -<tr><td>Salaries and Commissions</td><td align="right">636</td><td align="right">16</td><td align="right">8</td></tr> -<tr><td>Telegrams</td><td align="right">518</td><td align="right">18</td><td align="right">0</td></tr> -<tr><td>Insurance</td><td align="right">30</td><td align="right">2</td><td align="right">10</td></tr> -<tr><td>Medical Attendance</td><td align="right">96</td><td align="right">4</td><td align="right">9</td></tr> -<tr><td>Special Messenger to Khartoum</td><td align="right">65</td><td align="right">0</td><td align="right">0</td></tr> -<tr><td>Two drafts drawn in Africa for Goods</td><td align="right">225</td><td align="right">0</td><td align="right">0</td></tr> -<tr><td>Petty expenses in London</td><td align="right">97</td><td align="right">14</td><td align="right">10</td></tr> -<tr><td>Eastern Telegraph Co</td><td align="right">35</td><td align="right">4</td><td align="right">1</td></tr> -<tr><td>Printing</td><td align="right">1</td><td align="right">7</td><td align="right">9</td></tr> -<tr><td>Petty Cash</td><td align="right">10</td><td align="right">0</td><td align="right">0</td></tr> -<tr><td>Wages of Soudanese (Suez Draft)</td><td align="right">1,200</td><td align="right">0</td><td align="right">0</td></tr> -<tr><td>Edinburgh Draft</td><td align="right">0</td><td align="right">5</td><td align="right">0</td></tr> -<tr><td>William Bonny’s balance of Salary</td><td align="right">242</td><td align="right">0</td><td align="right">0</td></tr> -<tr><td>Captain Nelson’s Expenses</td><td align="right">30</td><td align="right">9</td><td align="right">4</td></tr> -<tr><td>Passage, Stairs and Jephson</td><td align="right">44</td><td align="right">13</td><td align="right">6</td></tr> -<tr><td>Expenses on “Katoria” and “Rewa”</td><td align="right">24</td><td align="right">11</td><td align="right">2</td></tr> -<tr><td>Smith, Mackenzie & Co.'s Draft for Payment of Expedition</td><td align="right">6,066</td><td align="right">18</td><td align="right">10</td></tr> -<tr><td>1st Donation to Lieut. W. G. Stairs</td><td align="right">400</td><td align="right">0</td><td align="right">0</td></tr> -<tr><td>1st Donation to A. Mounteney Jephson, Esq.</td><td align="right">400</td><td align="right">0</td><td align="right">0</td></tr> -<tr><td>1st Donation to Capt. R. H. Nelson</td><td align="right">400</td><td align="right">0</td><td align="right">0</td></tr> -<tr><td>1st Donation to Surgeon T. H. Parke</td><td align="right">400</td><td align="right">0</td><td align="right">0</td></tr> -<tr><td>1st Donation to William Bonny, Esq.</td><td align="right">200</td><td align="right">0</td><td align="right">0</td></tr> -<tr><td> </td><td align="right" - class="btb">£27,709</td><td align="right" - class="btb">9</td><td align="right" - class="btb">5</td></tr> -<tr><td>To contribution to Widows and Orphans of deceased Zanzibaris</td><td align="right" - class="bb" colspan="3">10,000 rupees.</td></tr> -</table> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_515" id="page_515"></a>{515}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="GENERAL_INDEX" id="GENERAL_INDEX"></a>GENERAL INDEX.</h2> - -<p class="c"><a href="#A">A</a>, -<a href="#B">B</a>, -<a href="#C">C</a>, -<a href="#D">D</a>, -<a href="#E">E</a>, -<a href="#F">F</a>, -<a href="#G">G</a>, -<a href="#H">H</a>, -<a href="#I">I</a>, -<a href="#J">J</a>, -<a href="#K">K</a>, -<a href="#L">L</a>, -<a href="#M">M</a>, -<a href="#N">N</a>, -<a href="#O">O</a>, -<a href="#P">P</a>, -<a href="#R">R</a>, -<a href="#S">S</a>, -<a href="#T">T</a>, -<a href="#U">U</a>, -<a href="#V">V</a>, -<a href="#W">W</a>, -<a href="#Y">Y</a>, -<a href="#Z">Z</a></p> - -<p class="nind"> -<a name="A" id="A"></a>Ababua tribe, i. 165; ii. 22, 97.<br /> -Abbaté Pasha, i. 58.<br /> -Abdallah Karoni, i. 517-18, 524.<br /> -Abdul Aziz, Sultan of Turkey, i. 443.<br /> -Abdul Hassan Ali and River Nile, ii. 310.<br /> -Abdul Kader Pasha and Emin, i. 444-5.<br /> -Abdul Vaal Effendi, ii. 121.<br /> -Abu Klea, battle of, i. 24.<br /> -Abunguma, i. 298, 302-4, 347.<br /> -Achmet Effendi, ii. 121, 158-9.<br /> -Achmet, the Somali, i. 201.<br /> -Addiguhha, ii. 61;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">skull at, 163.</span><br /> -<br /> -Aden, i. 59.<br /> -Advance column, memorandum for officers of, i. 129-31;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">numbers of, 133.</span><br /> -<i>Advance</i> steel boat, i. 80, 85, 92, 146, 195-6, 373, 390, 427;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">ii. 133-147.</span><br /> -Africa, dancing, music, and jewels in, i. 436;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">ornaments, 477;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Professor Drummond on, ii. 73-4;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Great Central Forest of, 74-5;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">in Homer’s time, 291-4;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">in Ptolemy’s, Hekatæus', &c., time, 294-312;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">tribes of Central, 384-403.</span><br /> -<i>A. I. A.</i> steamer, i. 77, 120, 516, 527, 532.<br /> -Ajif Mountain, ii. 256.<br /> -Akka tribe of dwarfs, i. 374-5, 385;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">ii. 42, 100-109.</span><br /> -Albert Nyanza Lake, i. 64, 112, 122, 125, 129, 192, 295, 313, 324, 327;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Mason’s chart of, 328;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">shores of, 339-40, 393.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_516" id="page_516"></a>{516}</span></span><br /> -Albert Lake, ii. 175;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Emin and, 240-257, 259;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">rivers into, 318, 323, 328, 331, 333, 335-7.</span><br /> -Albert Edward Nyanza, first view of, ii. 290;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">rivers into, 317-18, 323, 328-31;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">basin of, 335-6;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">islands of, 343-4, 346-8, 351, 353;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">last view of, 354-7, 360-1.</span><br /> -<i>Albuquerque</i>, s.s., i. 76.<br /> -Alessé, dwarfs of, i. 367.<br /> -Alexandra Nile, <i>see</i> “Nile.”<br /> -Ali bin Said, ii. 429.<br /> -Ali Effendi, ii. 226.<br /> -Ali Pasha Moubarek, ii. 304.<br /> -Allen, Mr., i. 26;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Emin, ii. 470.</span><br /> -Amadi Station, ii. 242-3.<br /> -Amani (youth), ii. 47-8.<br /> -Amari boy, i. 474.<br /> -Amelot and Stanley Falls Station, i. 70.<br /> -Amiri Falls, i. 204, 476;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">ii. 34-6.</span><br /> -Amranda, ii. 422.<br /> -Andari clearing, ii. 45, 46, 48, 50.<br /> -Anderson, Sir Percy, i. 44, 45, 47.<br /> -Anderson, Sir James, i. 66.<br /> -Andikumu clearing, ii. 53, 54, 59.<br /> -Anditoké, ii. 57.<br /> -Andiuba village, ii. 61.<br /> -Anduta, ii. 53, 54.<br /> -Ankori, ii. 314, 343-4, 351;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">route, 360-7, 371-2;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">climate of, 376-7, 380;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">cattle of, 393, 404-5, 411.</span><br /> -Antari, King of Ankori, ii. 359-61, 365;<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_517" id="page_517"></a>{517}</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">mother of, 366-7, 372-3, 379.</span><br /> -Antelope, i. 218.<br /> -Ants, i. 150;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">at Fort Bodo, 356-7, 469;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">in forest, 479-80.</span><br /> -Arabs, <i>see</i> “Kilonga Longa,” “Manyuema,” and “Ugarrowwa.”<br /> -Arab legends about the River Nile, ii. 303-12.<br /> -Arms—poisoned skewers, i. 139, 142, 374, 469, 477;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">ii. 78;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">assegais and arrows, i. 140;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">poisoned arrows, i. 173, 179-81, 190-1;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">ii. 27-8, 33, 79, 101-8, 116;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">a strange arrow, i. 285;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">weapons of the edge of the forest, i. 297;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">ii. 264;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">barrel of carbine at Usiri, i. 435;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">of Ababua tribe, ii. 22;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">tribes of the forest, 98;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">weapons of Balegga and Wahuma, ii. 399-401.</span><br /> -Arthington, Robert, and the steamer <i>Peace</i>, i. 47.<br /> -Aruwimi River, i. 108, 110;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">ii. 32, 75;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">banks of, i. 150; ii. 82-3;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">(called Lui River), i. 154;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">(called Luhali River), 155-6;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">bed of, 159;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">paddles of natives by the, 160-1, 193;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">(called the Nevva), 184, 192;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">large island in, 491;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;"><i>see</i> also “Ituri River;”</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">source of, ii. 94-7.</span><br /> -Ashe, Rev. R. P., ii. 380, 444.<br /> -Asmani, of Muscati, ii. 208.<br /> -Asmani, Wadi, i. 227-28.<br /> -Ass, Zanzibar, i. 205, 230-1.<br /> -Assad Farran, i. 528-9.<br /> -Aturo River, ii. 252.<br /> -Avaiyabu, ii. 34.<br /> -Avakubi Rapids, i. 201-2.<br /> -Avamberri (or Avamburi), i. 477;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">ii. 34.</span><br /> -Avatiko, i. 217;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">ii. 35-6, 40, 44.</span><br /> -Avejeli tribe, villages of, i. 193-5, 209, 479, 481;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">ii. 29.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_518" id="page_518"></a>{518}</span></span><br /> -Avisibba, i. 173-4, 178;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">ii. 28;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">head-dress of, i. 178, 481-2;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">arrows of, ii. 108.</span><br /> -Avugadu rapids, i. 192-3, 481;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">ii. 28.</span><br /> -Awamba, ii. 261, 270-1;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">forest, 274, 281-3, 285-6.</span><br /> -Awash Effendi, Major, i. 423;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">ii. 162, 178, 184, 220, 234, 243.</span><br /> -Ayoub Effendi, ii. 223.<br /> -Azra Effendi, ii. 234.<br /> -<br /> -<a name="B" id="B">B</a>abali tribe, i. 143.<br /> -Babanda tribe, i. 143.<br /> -Babandi tribe, ii. 34.<br /> -Babé tribe, i. 159.<br /> -Babessé, i. 377.<br /> -Ba-biassi tribe, i. 386, 389.<br /> -Babisa tribe, ii. 386.<br /> -Babukwa tribe, i. 143.<br /> -Babunda natives, i. 206.<br /> -Baburu tribes, i. 114, 154-5, 280, 535;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">ii. 97, 111.</span><br /> -Babusessé, i. 298;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">ii. 97;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">language, 490;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">hut construction, i. 298-9;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">natives, 303, 342, 348.</span><br /> -Badzwa village, i. 394, 428;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">road towards, 424, 426.</span><br /> -Baert, Mons., of the Congo State, i. 519, 543.<br /> -Bafaido cataract, i. 201-2, 477-8;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">ii. 34.</span><br /> -Bagamoyo, French Mission, ii. 448-453;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">arrival and dinner at, 453-461;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Emin’s accident at, 461-2, 471.</span><br /> -Bahunga village, i. 141.<br /> -Bakandi tribe, i. 289.<br /> -Baker, Sir Samuel, i. 12, 13, 17;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Albert Nyanza, 328;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Unyoro plateau, 400, 412;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Ruwenzori, 430;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">ii. 314.</span><br /> -Bakhit Bey’s cattle-raids, i. 423.<br /> -Baki Kundi, ii. 263.<br /> -Bakiokwa language, ii. 490.<br /> -Bakoka, villages of, i. 151.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_519" id="page_519"></a>{519}</span><br /> -Bakokoro village, ii. 275;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Ruwenzori from, 325-6.</span><br /> -Bakuba territory, i. 376;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">ii. 118.</span><br /> -Bakula, i. 152-55, 158, 161.<br /> -Bakumu tribe, ii. 97.<br /> -Bakusu tribe, i. 204, 207, 238, 510;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">ii. 26.</span><br /> -Bakuti, villages of, i. 150.<br /> -Bakwuru, villages of the, i. 283;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">ii. 116.</span><br /> -Balegga tribe, i. 238, 324, 346, 389;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">ii. 129, 159, 170, 176, 210, 250, 391;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">chief of Eastern, i. 393;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">country, 321;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">musical instruments of, ii. 399.</span><br /> -Balegga Hills, i. 346, 386;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">ii. 163, 174-5, 190, 252, 316-8, 403;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">raid on villages, i. 346, 386.</span><br /> -Balessé, country of, i. 255-6;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">clearings of, 257;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">chief of, 267;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">manners and customs, 278-9, 360;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">tribe, ii. 97, 100.</span><br /> -Balia village, i. 474;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">tribe, ii. 42.</span><br /> -Balunda tribe, ii. 386.<br /> -Balungwa, ii. 390.<br /> -Bambi, Chief, i. 155.<br /> -Banalya, tribe, i. 153, 155;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">curve, 492;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">arrival at, 493-97, 517-26, 534-47;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">rear column, ii. 11-12, 58, 115, 125, 232.</span><br /> -Banana Point, i. 75, 79;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">ii. 15, 32.</span><br /> -Bandangi village, i. 153;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">islands near, 154.</span><br /> -Bandekiya village, i. 485.<br /> -Bandeya, i. 165, 474, 485, 487.<br /> -Bandussuma, i. 436;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">ii. 114, 250.</span><br /> -Bangala Station, i. 107-8, 502, 510, 515;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">ii. 15, 34;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">tribe, 84, 91, 97.</span><br /> -Bantu, the term, ii. 384-5.<br /> -Banyoro, ii. 430.<br /> -Banza Manteka, i. 85.<br /> -Banzanza tribe, i. 289.<br /> -Banzombé village, ii. 275.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_520" id="page_520"></a>{520}</span><br /> -Bapai (or Bavaiya), i. 206;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">fishermen, 482.</span><br /> -Baptist Mission, i. 86.<br /> -Barghash, Sultan of Zanzibar, <i>see</i> “Seyyid Barghash.”<br /> -Bari tribe, ii. 133.<br /> -Baring, Sir Evelyn, ii. 128;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Hicks Pasha, i. 16;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and General Gordon, 20-1, 22, 46;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">conversation regarding route at Cairo, 49-51, 56, 58.</span><br /> -Barttelot, Major, ii. 2;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Preface, i. 5-7;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Tippu-Tib, ii. 17-20;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">engaged for the relief staff, i. 42;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">at Aden, 59;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">sketch of, 73;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Soudanese, 88;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and s.s. <i>Peace</i>, 92-4;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and s.s. <i>Stanley</i>, 95;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">orders to and duties of, 97-8, 103, 105;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">selected for command of the rear column, 105-6;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">to proceed to Stanley Falls, 108, 115-16;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">letter of instructions to, 117-19;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">conversation with—referring to Tippu-Tib, 119-28;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">at Yambuya, 128;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">blood-brother with a Yambuya chief, 132;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">farewell to, 136, 209;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">weight of, ii. 190, 470-1;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">return to assistance of, i. 344, 351;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">couriers sent to, 364, 366, 370, 372, 380, 422;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Lieut. Stairs and, 463-5;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">descriptive letter to, from Surgeon Parke, 490, 494;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and sad story of the rear column, 498-526;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">report of, 527-8;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">log of rear column, 533-47.</span><br /> -Barua tribe, ii. 386.<br /> -Baruti (black boy), i. 48;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">at Suez, 58;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and brother, 108-10.</span><br /> -Barzah House, the, ii. 148-156;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Mpigwa at, 395-6.</span><br /> -Basoga tribe, ii. 399.<br /> -Basoko tribe, ii. 97;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">villages, i. 108-10.</span><br /> -Basongora tribe, i. 204, 207, 238, 510.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_521" id="page_521"></a>{521}</span><br /> -Basopo Cataract, i. 235, 269, 478;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">rapids, ii. 30.</span><br /> -Batomba tribe, ii. 97.<br /> -Bats, army of, i. 481.<br /> -Batundu natives, i. 491;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">settlement, ii. 20, 34.</span><br /> -Batwa dwarfs, ii. 42, 100-9.<br /> -Baundwé, forest aborigines, ii. 263.<br /> -Bavabya, ii. 1-2.<br /> -Bavikai rapids, i. 479;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">village, ii. 31-3.</span><br /> -Bavira, villages and chief, i. 320-1, 324, 346, 380, 384-5;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Wahuma, 385;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">huts of, 389;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">tribe, ii. 129;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">women, 130, 208, 391;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">language, 490.</span><br /> -Bazungu tribe, ii. 100-109.<br /> -Beatrice Gulf, ii. 347, 349.<br /> -Becker, Lieutenant, ii. 474.<br /> -Bedden Station, ii. 122, 133, 243.<br /> -Bees, i. 143-4.<br /> -Bemberri, i. 386.<br /> -Bembezi Ford, i. 84.<br /> -Bentley, Rev. Mr., and s.s. <i>Peace</i>, i. 86, 90-1, 92-4.<br /> -Berber, i. 412, 415.<br /> -Bessé, ii. 118;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">village, i. 377, 378;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">skirmish of, 424, 453.</span><br /> -Bevwa, Chief of Wakonju, ii. 344-5, 351, 366.<br /> -Beyts, Captain (agent B.I.S.N. Co.), i. 58.<br /> -Bible, reading the, i. 311-2.<br /> -Big Cataract, ii. 40.<br /> -Bilal, ii. 197.<br /> -Billington, Mr., and s.s. <i>Henry Reed</i>, i. 86, 90, 92-4.<br /> -Binnie, Mr., and Stanley Falls Station, i. 65.<br /> -Binza (Dr. Junker’s boy), i. 90, 194, 427; ii. 126, 127, 137.<br /> -Birds, <i>see</i> “Ornithology.”<br /> -Blood-brotherhood, with a Yambuya chief, i. 132;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">with Ismaili, 253-4;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">with Mazamboni, 382-3;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">with Uchunku, ii. 378-9.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_522" id="page_522"></a>{522}</span></span><br /> -Bolobo, i. 103, 105, 111; ii. 6, 9, 10;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">contingent at, i. 133.</span><br /> -Boma, i. 76; ii. 32.<br /> -Bonny, Wm., Preface, i. 4, 5-7;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">engaged for the relief staff, 41;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Baruti, 48;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">at Suez, 58;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Soudanese and Zanzibaris, 73;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">sketch of, 74;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">orders to, and duties of, 97-8;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and rear column, 106, 372, 380;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">meeting with, at Banalya, 493-497;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and sad story of the rear column, 501, 526;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">official written narrative, 512-19;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">report and log of rear column, 527-47;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">action of, ii. 1-2, 12, 13, 16, 17, 30;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and dwarfs, 40, 54, 59-60, 63, 66, 155-6;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">note from, 157, 161-2, 259-60, 275, 276, 376, 479.</span><br /> -Bora Station, ii. 133.<br /> -Borchgrave, Comte de, i. 44, 45.<br /> -Boryo (chief of Balessé), i. 267-8, 271, 274, 276-7, 282, 349, 351.<br /> -Botany, i, 229-31;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">raphia palms, 453;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">of the forest, ii. 44-5;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Emin and, 238;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">musa plants, &c., 46;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">flora on Ruwenzori, 277-80;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">manioc, 5-11;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">phrynia, 22, 45, 63, 77, 83-5, 109;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">tobacco leaves, 24, 269;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">palms, 34, 79, 87, 264, 281, 341-2, 351;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">wood beans, &c., 50, 61, 109;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">ferns, 54, 175, 281;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">flora, &c., of African forest, 75-7;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">of the clearings, 83-4;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">epiphytes, 76-7;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">flora of Balegga Hills, 175;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Awamba Forest and Semliki Valley, 318-23, 335-7;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">spear grasses, 265;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">of the plain, 338-9, 351;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">acacia, 274, 336, 351, 421;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">beans, &c., 39, 78, 250, 269, 289;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">mushrooms, 64;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">makwemé, 109;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Indian corn, &c., 354;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">euphorbia, 337-9, 351, 421;<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_523" id="page_523"></a>{523}</span></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">papyrus, 372;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">thistles, 377;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">baobab, 444.</span><br /> -Brackenbury, Captain of H.M.S. <i>Turquoise</i>, ii. 457, 462.<br /> -Brackenbury, General, i. 48.<br /> -British Congo Company’s Steamers, i. 75-6.<br /> -British East African Company, ii. 430, 453;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Emin, 467, 472.</span><br /> -British Government, and Emin’s Province, i. 417.<br /> -Bruce, Alex. L., i. 35.<br /> -Buganda, ii. 430.<br /> -Bugombi natives, ii. 174, 395.<br /> -Bukanda, village, i. 146-149.<br /> -Bukiri (or Myyulu’s), i. 258.<br /> -Bukoko, ii. 270, 272, 274, 328.<br /> -Bukumbi, French missionaries at, ii. 368-9, 371, 428.<br /> -Bumbiré, i. 223.<br /> -Bunda, ii. 37.<br /> -Bundegunda village, ii. 223, 250;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">crops at, 252.</span><br /> -Bundi, i. 206, 393, 433.<br /> -Bungangeta, villages, i. 155.<br /> -Bungangeta, island, i. 492; ii. 12, 15-16, 34.<br /> -Bunyambiri village, ii. 223.<br /> -Burdett Coutts, Baroness and W., i. 35, 46.<br /> -Burroughs and Welcome, i. 38.<br /> -Buruli, ii. 347, 349-50.<br /> -Bushiri, ii. 449.<br /> -Busindi, i. 255.<br /> -Butahu River, ii. 284, 318.<br /> -Butama, ii. 270.<br /> -Butterflies at Katwé, ii. 343.<br /> -Buxton, Sir Thomas F., i. 35.<br /> -Bwamburi, villages of, i. 165; ii. 22.<br /> -Bwanga village, ii. 422.<br /> -Bwessa, chief of, i. 384, 441.<br /> -<br /> -<span class="smcap"><a name="C" id="C"></a>Cabot’s</span> (<span class="smcap">Sebastian</span>) map of Africa, ii. 298-9.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_524" id="page_524"></a>{524}</span><br /> -Camps, <i>see</i> “Itinerary” in Appendix, ii. 496-512.<br /> -Canoe accidents, ii. 16, 24, 28, 30.<br /> -Cape Town, i. 74.<br /> -Casati, Captain, i. 118, 334, 396; ii. 125-6, 128, 138, 144, 147, 155-7, 160, 162;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Monbuttu, i. 400, 419;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and return to the Coast, 406;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">experiences in Unyoro, 407-9;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Emin, 419; ii. 186-9, 191, 200, 207-8, 244-5;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">servant, 255, 276;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and cattle raids, 338;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">illness of, 371, 376;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Emin and, 409-10, 479.</span><br /> -Castor Oil Plant, i. 291.<br /> -Casualties and desertions, ii. 20, 22, 26-8, 33, 35, 47-9, 50, 53, 57, 61, 65, 116, 259, 281.<br /> -Cataracts, rapids, falls, &c., <i>see</i> Amiri, Bafaido, Basopo, Mabengu, Mariri, Panga, Nejambi, Wasps, &c.<br /> -Cattle, of the Dinka tribe, i. 450;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">raids, 423-4; ii. 246;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Rukara’s, 289-90, 350;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">raids of Wasongora, 338, 347, 372.</span><br /> -Chai river, ii. 252, 257.<br /> -Chama Issa, ii. 57-8.<br /> -Chamlirikwa, ii. 353.<br /> -Charters, Mr. David, and s.s. <i>Peace</i>, i. 102;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and repair of s.s. <i>Stanley</i>, 103-4, 115.</span><br /> -Cherif Pasha, i. 16.<br /> -Chimpanzees, or “soko,” i. 262;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">in forest of Msongwa, 449.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;"><i>See</i> “Zoölogy.”</span><br /> -Chongo, camp at, i. 441.<br /> -Chowambi, ii. 392.<br /> -Christian Mission Society, ii. 380.<br /> -Chumbiri, and s.s. <i>Stanley</i>, i. 103.<br /> -Clarke, Mr., of the L. I. Mission, i. 83.<br /> -Clearings, ii. 46, 80-4;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">of dwarfs, 101.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;"><i>See</i> “Andaki.”</span><br /> -Congo-la-Lemba, i. 84-5.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_525" id="page_525"></a>{525}</span><br /> -Congo Railway, ii. 110-11.<br /> -Congo River, work on the, i. 19-20;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">the Congo route for Emin’s relief, 33, 34, 43-5, 75, 77, 78;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Upper, scenery, 99-101;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">miniature Congo cañon, 219;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">raiders in Upper Basin, 238;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">ague and, ii. 32, 75;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">banks of, 82-3.</span><br /> -Congo Free State, and Tippu-Tib, i. 121;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Emin, 411;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">compared to Soudan, 414-15.</span><br /> -Congo Mission Stations, ii. 433, 449;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">State, 247;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Emin and, 468.</span><br /> -Congratulations by cable received at Zanzibar, ii. 481-8.<br /> -Constable’s map of Africa, ii. 300-1.<br /> -Consul of Zanzibar, ii. 18, 474, 477.<br /> -Cross roads camp, ii. 115-16.<br /> -<br /> -<a name="D" id="D">D</a>’Abren, Señor J. F., i. 79.<br /> -Daly, Judge, work on Africa, ii. 294.<br /> -Dawnay, Hon. Guy, i. 46, 50.<br /> -Deakes, Mr., ii. 429.<br /> -Deane, Captain, and Stanley Falls Station, i. 65, 70, 72, 107, 120, 520.<br /> -Denny, Peter, i. 35.<br /> -Denny range, ii. 362, 365, 367, 371-2.<br /> -Dessauer, Monsieur, i. 87.<br /> -Dinka tribe, and their cattle, i. 450;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and snakes, 450.</span><br /> -Diseases, ii. 6, 29, 34, 53, 61, 114, 158, 268, 376, 412;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">ulcers through poisoned skewer, i. 151;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">of the Madi carriers, 479;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">small-pox, ii. 20, 24, 28, 29, 31, 34-5;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">wounds from poisoned arrows, 27-8;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">pustules, 30;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">guinea worms, 110;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">malaria, 31-3;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">variola, 110.</span><br /> -Domestic animals of the Dwarfs, ii. 110.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_526" id="page_526"></a>{526}</span><br /> -Donagla. <i>See</i> “Mahdi.”<br /> -Drummond, Professor, on Africa, ii. 73-4.<br /> -Dualla, Somali, i. 455, 456.<br /> -Dufflé Station, ii. 132-7;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">troops at, i. 405.</span><br /> -Dui River, ii. 58-60.<br /> -Duki Mountain, ii. 390-1.<br /> -Dwarfs, first specimen of the tribe of, i. 207-8;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">first village of, 261;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">camp, 265; ii. 79, 263;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">dwellings of, 103-4;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">village of, i. 278, 374;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">camp of, near Fort Bodo, 356;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">a Queen of, 367-8;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">colour of, 374;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">features of, 375;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">measurement and colour of, ii. 40-2, 164, 167;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">conversation by gesture, 42-4;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">woman, 44;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">woodcraft of, 44, 49-50;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and ammunition, 53-4, 61-2;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">tribe of, 100-9;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">at Fort Bodo, 113;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">the opposite of the Wahuma, 384-5;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">damsel and boy, 410.</span><br /> -<br /> -<a name="E" id="E">E</a>ast African Association’s offer to Emin Pasha, i. 411-12.<br /> -Eastern Telegraph Company, i. 66.<br /> -Edgington, J. and Company, i. 38.<br /> -Edrisi and Central Africa, ii. 295-6, 305-6.<br /> -Edwin Arnold Mountain, ii. 353, 367.<br /> -Egypt, and England, i. 11, 12, 15;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and the Soudan, 12;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Ministry and Gordon, 21;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Egyptian Government, Relief Fund, 35;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Government and Emin’s ivory, 52;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Equatorial Provinces, 401, 410-17;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Emin Pasha, ii. 232;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Egyptian Government in the Soudan, 247.</span><br /> -Egyptians, ii. 141;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">officers, 170, 173;<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_527" id="page_527"></a>{527}</span></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">muster of, and Soudanese, 198-206, 208, 214-16, 231;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Emperor Hadrian and, 240, 252, 255, 265-6, 352, 371, 376, 377.</span><br /> -El-del Station, ii. 241.<br /> -Elephant Playground Camp, i. 491; ii. 22.<br /> -Elephants at Memberri, i. 204;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">at Ituri, 213;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">bones of, at Lake Albert, 339;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">troops of, 359;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">spear, 376.</span><br /> -Elliot, Captain Grant, i. 39-40.<br /> -Emin Pasha, Preface, i. 7-9;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and General Gordon, 19;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">birth and early days, 18-19, 442-3;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">letters to Mr. Mackay, 25-6;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">letter to Mr. C. H. Allen, 26;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">letter to Dr. Felkin, 26-7;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">his views, 28;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">letters relating to Emin from Messrs. Mackay, Holmwood, &c., 29-31;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">——’s troops, 31, 54-6;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">estimated and actual time occupied for relief of, 36;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and store of ivory, 52, 64;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">High Order from the Khedive to, 56-8;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Stanley’s letter to, 62-3;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">ivory and Tippu-Tib, 71;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">false report of Emin Pasha’s arrival, 196, 199;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Dr. Junker <i>re</i> Lake Albert, 333;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">no news of, 362-3;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">second attempt to find, 373;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">first news of “Malleju” or the “Bearded One,” 379, 381, 386;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“Malleju’s” letter, 389-90;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">at Kavalli camp, 396;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">description of, 396;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Drs. Felkin and Junker’s description of, 400;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Monbuttu, 400;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Kabba Rega, 401;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">conversation about leaving the province, 401-6;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">brings provisions, 408;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Captain Casati, 408;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">conversation between Stanley and, relating to Equatorial Province, 410-17;<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_528" id="page_528"></a>{528}</span></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Casati, 419;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Lake Ibrahim, 419;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">presents of clothing by, 422;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Emin Pasha’s officers, 423;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and cattle-raids, 423-4;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and use of the sextant, 425, 426;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">good-bye to, 428-9;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Ruwenzori, 430, 432;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">two letters from, 431-2;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Unyoro, 432-3;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and General Gordon, 443-4;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Mackay’s library, 445;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Emin Pasha’s abilities, capacity, and industry, 445-7;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">some of Emin Pasha’s troubles, 447-9;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and natural history, 449-51;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and malaria, ii. 33, 59;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and insects, 91;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">news of, 118-19;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">three letters from, 120-1;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Jephson and, 121-4, 124-7;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Stanley’s letter to, 128-9;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Jephson and, 131-8, 140-4;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">letter from, 144-5, 147-8;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">officers, 151, 155;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">baggage, 158;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">daughter, 160;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">as naturalist, 160-7, 174-5;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Shukri Agha, 174, 176;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Selim Bey, 176-81;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Osman Latif Effendi and, 183-4;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Captain Casati, 186-9, 191, 207-8, 213, 409-10;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">weight of, 190;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">illness of, 352, 371, 376;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Mohammed Effendi’s wife, 192-7;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Stanley, 198-206;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">followers, 204-5;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Wadelai mails, 216, 226;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">a study of his province, 228-49;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and troops, 267-8;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Ruwenzori, 276, 314;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">muster-roll, 353;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Père Schintze and, 445;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Pères of French Mission, 448-9;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">at Bagamoyo, 454, 457;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">the dinner and accident to, 458-62;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Stanley and, 465-6, 468-73;<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_529" id="page_529"></a>{529}</span></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and German Government, 466-8, 479-80.</span><br /> -Emin Pasha Relief Committee, telegram from, i. 507, 514-15;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">report to, 527-34; ii. 13, 128, 177, 471;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Jaffar Tarya, 477.</span><br /> -Emin Pasha Relief Expedition, ii. muster of, 14, 115, 155;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">at Kavalli, 210.</span><br /> -Emin Pasha Relief Fund, ii. 474;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">statement of receipts and expenses, 513-14.</span><br /> -<i>En Avant</i>, s.s., i. 77, 85, 90, 525.<br /> -England’s work in Africa, i. 69.<br /> -Engweddé tribe, i. 170, 173, 174, 482; ii. 24;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">rapids, 28;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">rain at, 94;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">captives of, 100.</span><br /> -Entomology:<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Insects and flies, i. 152, 359;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">of the great African forest, 479-80; ii. 90-3;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">fleas of Ibwiri, i. 270;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">mosquitoes, gnats, &c., of Upper Congo, 101;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">at Fort Bodo, 356-7;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Emin and, ii. 267-8;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">jiggers, 3, 92;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">ants, i. 150, 357-8, 469, 479-80; ii. 39, 75-6, 78, 84, 91, 92;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">dried ants for poison, 108;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">white ants, 110;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">black mosquitoes, 415;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">moths, cloud of, 33;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">wasps, 35;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">and bees, 39, 76, 84, 90-2;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">beetles, 91, 92, 393;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">gnats, pest of, 261;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">butterflies at Katwé, 343.</span><br /> -Epeni brook, ii. 44.<br /> -Equatorial Province, i. 410-17;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">stations in, 418;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">rebellion in, ii. 121-4;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Jephson’s report of, 131-7, 143-4;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">officers of, 151-6, 160, 176-7, 179-81, 188, 213, 223-6;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">history of, 231-49, 261.</span><br /> -Equator Station, i. 85, 107, 115.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_530" id="page_530"></a>{530}</span><br /> -Ethnology, i. 385;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">forest tribes, ii. 88-9, 97-104;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">of Central and South Africa, 384-9.</span><br /> -Etienne, Père, ii. 457, 459.<br /> -Express rifles, i. 213.<br /> -<br /> -<span class="smcap"><a name="F" id="F"></a>Fabbo</span> Station, ii. 133-4.<br /> -Fadl el Mulla Aga, ii. 132, 134, 160, 178, 183, 188, 224-6, 246.<br /> -Fane, Mr., i. 52.<br /> -Farag Pasha, i. 24.<br /> -Farishi Station, i. 455, 456.<br /> -Farjalla, the slave of, i. 212-13.<br /> -Fathel Mullah, ii. 416-17.<br /> -Felkin, Dr. R. W., missionary, ii. 268, 380, 470;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">letter from Emin Bey, i. 26-7;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">route for Emin’s relief, 31;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">description of Emin, 400.</span><br /> -Ferahani, ii. 447-8.<br /> -Ferajji, headman, ii. 4-7, 27.<br /> -Ferida, Emin’s daughter, ii. 160;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">the nurse of, 192, 194-5.</span><br /> -Ferney, Mr. Lafontaine, i. 75.<br /> -Feruzi, i. 228;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and the bush antelope, ii. 25-6.</span><br /> -Fetteh (of Unyoro), i. 312-14, 377.<br /> -Fights of Expedition, <i>see</i> Avisibba, Mazamboni, &c.;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">with the Balegga, ii. 129;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">with Wara Sura, 255, 260, 349-50, 352;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">with Wasakuma, 436-8.</span><br /> -Fischer, Dr., and relief of Junker, i. 29, 30;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Emin, 30, 35.</span><br /> -Fish in Lake Urigi, ii. 415.<br /> -<i>Florida</i>, s.s., shaft, i. 84;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">launching of, 95-6;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">departure for Yambuya, 101-7, 462-3.</span><br /> -Foreign Office, despatches, i. 417;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Emin, ii. 466-7.</span><br /> -Forests:<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">of the Upper Congo river, i. 99-101;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">our mode of marching through, 135-8;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">160 days in the, 138;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">slow progress through the, 144, 229-30;<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_531" id="page_531"></a>{531}</span></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">a forest tempest, 144-5, 233;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">abandoned clearings, 222;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">our food in the, 222-3;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">beans, 225;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">pears, 226;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">limit of the great, 281;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">woods, 284, 357;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">forest-craft, 374;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">of Msongwa, 449;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">clearings, 474-5;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">evils of forest marching, 479-80;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Forest, Great Central African, description of, ii. 74-111;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Awamba, 262, 269-70.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Table of—and Grass-land languages. <i>See</i> Appendix.</span><br /> -Forrest & Son, and steel boat, i. 38, 77.<br /> -Fort Bodo, i. 349; ii. 15, 57, 59, 72, 104-7, 112-15, 124-5, 232, 470;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">construction of, i. 351-2;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">stockade of, 352-3;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">officers’ house at, 354-5;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">garrison of, 354;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">road construction at, 349;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">distance from Ipoto, 363;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">cornfields at, 369-70, 456-7;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">labour about, 370-1;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">roads from, 371;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">life at, 371-2;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">arrival at, 453;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">condition of garrison at, 456-7;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">state of, 459-60;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">improvements to be made in, 466;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">departure from, 468;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">progress from, 491.</span><br /> -Fort Island, near Panga Falls, i. 171; ii. 26.<br /> -Fortnum & Mason, i. 39.<br /> -Foss, Captain, ii. 462, 473.<br /> -France, territory in West Africa, i. 69,<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and East Africa, 77.</span><br /> -Francqui, Mons., i. 87.<br /> -Fraser, Commander T. M., ii. 457.<br /> -French missionaries at Usambiro, ii. 422, 428;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">at Bukumbi, 433-4, 444;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">tributes of, 443, 445, 447;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Emin and, 448-9.</span><br /> -Fruit: fenessi, i. 225, 229; ii. 109;<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_532" id="page_532"></a>{532}</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">plantains and bananas, i. 266, 299, 476; ii. 10, 20, 28, 31, 36, 39, 43, 45, 53, 59, 61, 62, 78-9, 97, 261-2, 275-6, 417;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">wild oranges and mango-trees, 29;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">figs, 29, 110;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">fig-tree, 34, 83;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">wild fruit of the forest, 88, 109-10;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">melons, &c., 328;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">blackberries, 371, 377.</span><br /> -Fundi, ii. 69.<br /> -<br /> -<a name="G" id="G">G</a>addo (the lake pilot), ii. 402.<br /> -Game in the forest, ii. 88-9.<br /> -Gavira, chief of Bavira (<i>see</i> “Mpigwa”), i. 320, 384, 386, 388, 390, 434-5; ii. 119, 391-2.<br /> -Gengé, ii. 434.<br /> -Geology:<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Forest at Andari, ii. 50;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">at Andikumu, 57;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">of river beds, 274;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">bed of Semliki River, 286;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">bed of Albert Edward Nyanza, 335-6.</span><br /> -German Government and Emin, ii. 438-42, 472-3.<br /> -Germans at Mpwapwa, ii. 430-1, 446;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and coast Arabs, 446;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Ugogo, 446;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">at Bagamoyo, 457-61.</span><br /> -Germany and territory east of Zanzibar, i. 68-9, 77.<br /> -Gessi Pasha, i. 14, 430, 444; ii. 141;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Ruwenzori, 314.</span><br /> -Giegler Pasha, i. 58.<br /> -Girault, Père, ii. 445.<br /> -Gladstone, Mr., i. 16, 23, 240.<br /> -Glave, at Equator Station, i. 85, 107.<br /> -Gleerup, Mr., and Stanley Falls Station, i. 70.<br /> -Goats, ii. 15, 24, 28, 39, 58, 61, 97;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">of Wara Sura, 350;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and fowls of Nepanga, i. 169.</span><br /> -Goods of the Expedition, i. 37-9, 547; ii. 155.<br /> -Gondokoro, i. 412.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_533" id="page_533"></a>{533}</span><br /> -Gordon, General, and the slave trade, i. 14, 17;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and the Upper Soudan, 17-19;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and the Congo River, 20;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Khartoum, 20-25, 404, 427;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">at Khartoum, ii. 141;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">death, i. 24;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Nubar Pasha and, 52, 240, 412;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Lake Ibrahim, 419;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Emin Pasha, 27, 443-4.</span><br /> -Gordon, Rev. Cyril, ii. 380, 424, 429.<br /> -Gordon-Bennett, Mr. J., ii. 450.<br /> -Gordon-Bennett Mountain, ii. 315, 317;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">cove, 367.</span><br /> -Grant, Capt., i. 12.<br /> -Grant, Col. J. A., i. 45-7;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Baruti, 48, 50;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Mtesa, ii. 411, 412.</span><br /> -Granville, Lord, and the Soudan, i. 16;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and General Gordon, 20-2.</span><br /> -Grass-land and Forest languages, comparative table of. <i>See</i> Appendix.<br /> -Gravenreuth, Baron von, ii. 450.<br /> -Gray, Dawes & Co., i. 35, 46, 48.<br /> -Grenfell, General, i. 56, 58.<br /> -Grenfell, Mr., and Mobangi River, i. 107.<br /> -Grenfell, Sir Francis, ii. 248-9.<br /> -Greshoff, Mr. A., i. 96, 399, 462-3.<br /> -Gunda village, i. 441.<br /> -Gwengweré, rapids and villages, i. 151, 152.<br /> -<br /> -<a name="H" id="H">H</a>ailallah, ii. 118.<br /> -Hajji, Zanzibari, ii. 209.<br /> -Hall, Jas., i. 35.<br /> -Hamdan, Egyptian soldier, ii. 263, 265.<br /> -Hamed bin Ibrahim, ii. 411.<br /> -Hamid Aga, ii. 131.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_534" id="page_534"></a>{534}</span><br /> -<br /> -Hannington, Bishop, i. 53;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">murder of, ii. 359, 370, 380-1.</span><br /> -Hassan, our cook, i. 474.<br /> -Hassan, Bakari, ii. 169.<br /> -Hassan, Vita, apothecary, i. 399, 424.<br /> -Hassan, Dr., ii. 473.<br /> -Hekatæus, ii. 41, and Africa, 294.<br /> -<i>Henry Reed</i>, mission steamer, i. 76-7, 85, 86, 90;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Jephson and, 93, 95;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">departure for Yambuya, 101-7, 115-16.</span><br /> -<i>Heron</i>, steamer, i. 76, 79.<br /> -Hicks Pasha, i. 14-17;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Army, ii. 241.</span><br /> -Hilallah, boy, i. 261.<br /> -Hipparchus’ map of Africa, ii. 294-5, 300.<br /> -Hippo Broads, ii. 33;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">camp, i. 201, 478.</span><br /> -Hippopotami, i. 101, 104, 201;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">bones of, 339.</span><br /> -Hirschberg, Capt., ii. 462, 473.<br /> -Holmwood, Consul-General F., and Emin, i. 28-9;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">despatch to Foreign Office, Sept., 1886, 29-30; 60, 71, 531-2.</span><br /> -Homer’s time, Africa in, ii. 291-4, 300,<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Nile, 302.</span><br /> -Hot springs, ii. 282;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">near Iwanda, 350;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Mtagata, 406, 410.</span><br /> -Houssas, i. 91, 107.<br /> -Hutton, Mr. James F., i. 31, 35.<br /> -<br /> -<a name="I" id="I">I</a>bina River, i. 207, 246.<br /> -Ibrahim Effendi Elham, ii. 217.<br /> -Ibrahim, Lake (or Gita Nzige), i. 419.<br /> -Ibwiri, village of, i. 265-70; ii. 30, 48;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">clearing of, 53, 103;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">fleas of, i. 270, 274-5, 303, 337-8, 350-1.</span><br /> -Iddesleigh, Lord, and Uganda route, i. 45;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">death of, 46;<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_535" id="page_535"></a>{535}</span></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">despatches furnished by, 417.</span><br /> -Ihangiro, ii. 387-8, 414, 418.<br /> -Ihuru River, i. 207, 219, 263; ii. 43, 47, 49, 54, 58, 61, 63, 69, 72.<br /> -Ikoma, ii. 434-5.<br /> -Ikungu, ii. 445-6.<br /> -Ikuta Island, ii. 418.<br /> -Indekaru, villages of East and West, i. 263, 265, 367-8, 375, 468.<br /> -Indemau, ii. 58-60.<br /> -Indemwani village, i. 277, 349, 374.<br /> -Indenduru, villages of East and West, i. 277-9, 453;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">West and Central, ii. 116.</span><br /> -Indeperri, ii. 59.<br /> -Indepessu, i. 280, 375.<br /> -Indepuya, natives of, i. 374.<br /> -Indesura, i. 286, 290-2, 349.<br /> -Indetonga camp, i. 349.<br /> -Ingham and Congo carriers, i. 47, 80.<br /> -Inkissi River, i. 89.<br /> -Ipoto, settlement of, i. 219, 234-5; ii. 103, 273;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">ivory hunters at, i. 236-41, 364, 469-70.</span><br /> -Irangara Island, ii. 347.<br /> -Islands, <i>see</i> Bungangeta, Fort, Ikuta, Kakuri, Kasenya, Mysomé, Nepanga, Rumondo, &c.<br /> -Ismail, the Khedive of Egypt, i. 12-14;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Gordon, 19.</span><br /> -Ismail Hakki Pasha and E. Schnitzler, i. 18, 442.<br /> -Ismaili, chief, i. 238, 249-54, 261, 361.<br /> -Itari, ii. 418-21.<br /> -Itinerary of Journeys made in 1887, 1888, 1889; ii. 496-512.<br /> -Itiri settlement, i. 184-7; ii. 28.<br /> -Ituri River, i. 53, 207, 213, 216-17, 219-21, 223, 282, 289, 291-2, 301-2, 304, 306, 319, 320, 347-8, 376, 393, 453, 466, 470-1, 476;<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_536" id="page_536"></a>{536}</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">twin peak near, 431; ii. 26, 30, 38, 39-40;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">source of, 94-7; 115, 125, 145;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Emin and, 240; valley, 281;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">tributaries of, 252, 273, 393;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;"><i>see</i> also Aruwimi River.</span><br /> -Ivory, ii. 107, 146;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Emin’s, 183, 240;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">gift to Mazamboni, 223;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">at Katwé, 342;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;"><i>see</i> Emin Pasha, Ipoto, &c., i.</span><br /> -Iwanda, ii. 350, 366, 371-2.<br /> -Iyugu village, i. 283, 349.<br /> -<br /> -<a name="J" id="J">J</a>abu (our cook), ii. 26.<br /> -Jaffar, son of Tarya Topan, i. 60; ii. 474-7.<br /> -Jameson, James S., Preface, i. 5-7, 36;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">engaged for the relief staff, 43, 58;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">sketch of, 74;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and hippopotami, 93;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">orders to, and duties of, 97-8;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">selected for second in command of rear column, 106;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">letter of instructions to, 117-19, 128;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">farewell to, 136;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and butterflies, 150, 372, 380, 494;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and sad story of the rear column, 500-26;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">report and log of rear column, 527-47;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">mention of, ii. 12, 13, 15-66;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">box, 30, 182-3.</span><br /> -Jephson, A. J. Mounteney (<i>Buburika</i>), Preface, i. 7-9;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">engaged for the relief staff, 43;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">departure of, 48;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Soudanese and Zanzibaris, 73;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">sketch of, 73;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and steel boat, 85;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Congo, 89;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Salim, 89-90;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and steamer <i>Peace</i>, 92-4;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">orders to, and duties of, 97-8;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">at Yambuya, 128;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">memorandum for advance column officers, 129-31, 146, 149, 161-2, 180, 182-4, 192, 224-5;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">fanciful menus, 226-28, 232;<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_537" id="page_537"></a>{537}</span></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">report of Nelson’s relief, 248-9, 272, 471;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Mazamboni’s people, 315-17;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Katonza’s, 224-5, 347;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">at Fort Bodo, 354, 367;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and blood-brotherhood with Mazamboni, 382-3;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and steel boat, 390;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">conveys letter to Emin Pasha, 391-2;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">note from, 395;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">at Kavalli, 396, 410, 422, 427;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Message for Emin’s troops, 427-8, 430-1;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Fort Bodo, 466; ii. 28, 31-2, 113-15, 117-19;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Emin, 120-1, 138;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">letters from, 121-4;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Stanley’s letter to, 124-8;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">return of, 130-1;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">report of the revolt in the Equatorial Province, 131-7, 141, 145;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">letter from, 146-7, 162, 167;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Balegga Hills, 175, 176, 178, 179-83;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">weight of, 190, 201-18;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">illness of, 216, 257, 260, 275, 352, 371;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Emin, 233, 237, 248, 276;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Gaddo, 402, 479.</span><br /> -Jordan’s Nullah, ii. 438.<br /> -Juma, i. 243-4, 249, 454, 478-9;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">son of Nassib, 487-8.</span><br /> -Juma, Hussein bin, ii. 27-8.<br /> -Juma, Ali, ii. 114.<br /> -Juma Waziri, i. 291.<br /> -Junker, Dr., ii. 151, 183, 229, 232;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Emin, i. 29-31, 54, 58, 77, 400, 402; ii. 244-5, 268, 470;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Congo route, i. 50, 52-4;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Emin’s troops, 55;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Emin’s ivory, 64, 71;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Nepoko River, 193;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Monbuttu, 400;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">letter from, 447.</span><br /> -<br /> -<a name="K" id="K">K</a>abba Rega, i. 332; ii. 129, 147, 157, 159, 191, 239, 244-5, 255, 270-1, 338;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Katwé, 344-5, 352, 382;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">father of, 392, 430;<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_538" id="page_538"></a>{538}</span></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Komubi, i. 393-4;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Emin, 401, 431;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Capt. Casati, 507-8;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Katonza, 425;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Musiri, 435-6.</span><br /> -Kabindas, party of, i. 84, 91.<br /> -<i>Kacongo</i> gunboat, i. 79.<br /> -Kadongo’s village, i. 433-4; ii. 391.<br /> -Kafur River, ii. 432.<br /> -Kafurro settlement, ii. 373, 411-13.<br /> -Kaibuga, chief, ii. 255, 258, 268.<br /> -Kaiyura’s settlement, ii. 346-7.<br /> -Kajumba, chief, ii. 417-18.<br /> -Kakoko, ii. 411, 429.<br /> -Kakonya, ii. 351-2.<br /> -Kakuri, chief, ii. 284, 344-6.<br /> -Kakuri Island, ii. 346, 353, 354, 366.<br /> -Kakwa Hill, ii. 54.<br /> -Kalema, ii. 430.<br /> -Kalengé, Katto’s cousin, i. 437; ii. 118, 391.<br /> -Kametté, chief of, i. 452.<br /> -Kamrasi, ii. 392.<br /> -Kamwaga, ii. 422.<br /> -Kamwaiya, i. 367.<br /> -Kandekoré clearings, i, 376; ii. 115-16, 118.<br /> -Kanji, the Vakeel of Tarya, i. 60.<br /> -Kapera, ii. 444.<br /> -Karagwé, route through, i. 32-3, 53;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">armlets, &c., of, 258;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">spears of, 318;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">mention of, ii. 360, 382, 387, 404-5, 411-14.</span><br /> -Karamulli settlement, ii. 352.<br /> -Karema, King of Uganda, ii. 369, 382, 411.<br /> -Karéma and Baruti, i. 108.<br /> -Karimi camp, ii. 289;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Ruwenzori from, 327, 335, 339.</span><br /> -Karramalla, ii. 242, 244, 247.<br /> -Kasai River, ii. 453.<br /> -Kasari settlement, ii. 372.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_539" id="page_539"></a>{539}</span><br /> -Kasenya Island, i. 334-8.<br /> -Kassasura, ii. 418.<br /> -Kassessé, chief, ii. 347.<br /> -Kassololo Hill, i. 206.<br /> -Kasunga Nyanza, ii. 353.<br /> -Katara, ii. 371.<br /> -Katari settlement, ii. 353-4, 366.<br /> -Katekiro’s raid, ii. 338.<br /> -Katera lagoon, ii. 392.<br /> -Kateribba Island, ii. 347.<br /> -Katero Island, ii. 347.<br /> -Katonga River, ii. 318, 358.<br /> -Katonza, chief, i. 331-7, 379, 394, 338, 425, 431-2; ii. 119, 157, 391;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Kava lli, 395.</span><br /> -Katto, Mazamboni’s brother, i. 434-5;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">phalanx dance, 436-8; ii. 118, 391.</span><br /> -Katwé town, ii. 284, 337, 339-40;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">salt lake of, 340-4;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">colour of, 343; bay, 346-7.</span><br /> -Kavalli, i. 63, 118, 129;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Kasenya Island, 337, 386, 393 (<i>see</i> “Mbiassi”), 389-90, 392, 395, 409-10;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Kabba Rega, 431-2;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">plateau of, ii. 31;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">camp, 118-19, 122, 126, 128-9, 140, 162, 201, 210;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Egyptians at, 240, 315;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Katwé salt, 343, 359;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">chief, 389-92;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and cattle, 393-4;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Katonza, 395;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Gaddo, 402;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Emin, 470-1.</span><br /> -Kavari, ii. 414.<br /> -Kavirondo, ii. 359-60.<br /> -Kawandaré, ii. 351, 352.<br /> -Keltie, J. S., i. 47.<br /> -Khalfan, i. 173, 187, 189-90.<br /> -Khalif of Khartoum, ii. 143-4;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">letter to, 249.</span><br /> -Khambi Mbya, ii. 443.<br /> -Khamis bin Athman, i. 86;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">headman, 238, 261;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and “Three O’clock,” 264-5;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Zanzibaris, 266-7;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Boryo, 268, 271-2, 361.</span><br /> -Khartoum, and General Gordon, i. 20-5, 404, 427;<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_540" id="page_540"></a>{540}</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Emin at, ii. 238; fall of, 121, 239, 241, 244.</span><br /> -Khedive of Egypt, ii. 151, 152;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">letter from the, 121, 125, 128, 131-2, 180;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Emin, 189, 232-4, 243, 249, 467, 471-2.</span><br /> -<i>Khedive</i>, s.s., on Lake Albert, i. 399, 407, 409, 422, 424, 426, 431; ii. 126, 144, 146, 160.<br /> -Kibbo-bora, headman, ii. 69, 410-11.<br /> -Kibiro, ii. 244.<br /> -Kibwiga, ii. 362.<br /> -Kiengo (guide), ii. 412.<br /> -Kigeri, King, ii. 373.<br /> -Kikuyu, ii. 359.<br /> -Kilimani Hill, i. 455.<br /> -Kilolo, village of, i. 85.<br /> -Kilonga-Longa’s (Uledi) settlement, i. 208, 218-19, 234-6, 247;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">charges against, 273, 360, 469-70;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">ferry of, ii. 49, 59, 107;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">followers of, 273.</span><br /> -Kimberri cones, ii. 390-1.<br /> -Kimpoko, i. 102.<br /> -Kimwani, or Kizinga, ii. 417-18.<br /> -Kingani River, ii. 453.<br /> -Kinnena on the Lindi, i. 236.<br /> -Kinshassa, i. 91, 95-6;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and s.s. <i>Peace</i>, 102.</span><br /> -Kinya-magara Range, ii. 362-5.<br /> -Kirk, Sir John, Mr. Mackay’s letter to, i. 30-1, 50, 67;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Emin’s letter to, 417; ii. 466-7.</span><br /> -Kirri, i. 447; ii. 122, 131, 243.<br /> -Kiruromo, ii. 409-10.<br /> -Kiryama village, ii. 257; natives, 258.<br /> -Kisaho village, ii. 418.<br /> -Kitagwenda, ii. 347, 351, 353-4.<br /> -Kitchener, Major, and Khartoum, i. 25.<br /> -Kites, i. 358;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">at Badzwa, 394.</span><br /> -Kiteté heights of, ii. 354, 360-1.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_541" id="page_541"></a>{541}</span><br /> -Kiwewa, ii. 369, 411.<br /> -Knorr, Admiral, i. 60.<br /> -Komubi, chief, i. 393-4; ii. 391.<br /> -Kru-boys, i. 91.<br /> -Kuka Peak, ii. 390-1.<br /> -Kungu, ii. 434-5.<br /> -Kwamouth, i. 103, 105.<br /> -Kwara-Kwanzi, ii. 344.<br /> -Kwilu River, i. 85.<br /> -Kyensi, ii. 411.<br /> -Kynock & Co.'s cartridges, i. 38, 472.<br /> -Kyya Nkondo’s, ii. 128-9.<br /> -<br /> -<a name="L" id="L">L</a>aboratoire Khedivial and Katwé salt, ii. 340-1.<br /> -Laboré Station, ii. 122, 131-3.<br /> -Lado, i. 412-13, 415; ii. 133, 244.<br /> -Lake Shore Camp, ii. 160-1, 220, 224-5.<br /> -Lakki (or a “Hundred Thousand”), ii. 24.<br /> -Lakkin (Zanzibari), i. 487.<br /> -Lamu, i. 59;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Dr. Lenz at, 127.</span><br /> -Landburg, Count de, ii. 310-12.<br /> -Lando villages, i. 424.<br /> -Langa Langa, i. 107.<br /> -Lavigerie, crusade preached by Cardinal, i. 240.<br /> -Lemur, i. 357.<br /> -Lenda River, i. 206-7, 213, 216, 236-7, 472-3; ii. 38.<br /> -Lenz, Dr., the Austrian traveller, i. 59, 127, 428.<br /> -Leopold, King, and the Congo River, i. 20;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and the Congo route, 33-4, 43-5;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">visit to, 47-8;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Stanley Falls, 64-65;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Free State, 69;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Tippu-Tib, 70, 121;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">proposition to Emin, 411-17;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Emin, ii. 467-8.</span><br /> -Leopold II. Lake, ii. 300.<br /> -Leopoldville, i. 91-2, 111.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_542" id="page_542"></a>{542}</span><br /> -Liebig Company’s Extract, i. 39, 89; ii. 58.<br /> -Liebricht, Lieut., of Stanley Pool, i. 90, 92-4, 115, 462, 531.<br /> -Linant Bey, i. 448.<br /> -Lindi River, i. 206.<br /> -Lions, i. 450-1.<br /> -Little Rapids, ii. 30.<br /> -Livingstone Inland Mission, i. 83, 85, 93.<br /> -Livingstone, relief of David, ii. 228-9, 431.<br /> -Lobo, Père Jerome, and the Nile, ii. 291, 302-3.<br /> -Lohugati stream, ii. 418.<br /> -Luajimba, ii. 350, 411.<br /> -Luba, of Usoga, ii. 370.<br /> -Lufu River, i. 84.<br /> -Luila River, i. 91.<br /> -Lukolela Mission Station, i. 91, 107.<br /> -Lukungu Station, i. 80, 86, 87-8, 105, 120.<br /> -Lulu River, i. 206.<br /> -Lumami, the, i. 513, 520.<br /> -Lunionzo River, i. 85.<br /> -Lupton Bey, i. 19, 26; ii. 241.<br /> -Luteté, i. 89.<br /> -<br /> -<a name="M" id="M">M</a>abengu Rapids, i. 192; ii. 28, 94;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">villages, i. 184, 187, 481.</span><br /> -Mabisé tribe, ii. 161.<br /> -Mabodé tribe, i. 165; ii. 97.<br /> -Mabruki, the hunter, i. 395, 409, 424-5, 481; ii. 137.<br /> -Mackay, Mr. A. M., the Uganda missionary, letters from Emin Bey, i. 25-30;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">letter to Sir John Kirk, 30-1;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and spare books from Emin Pasha, 407;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Emin and Mackay’s library, 445;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">success of, ii. 380-2;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and the Relief Expedition, 423-9;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">last letter of, 429-31, 433, 444.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_543" id="page_543"></a>{543}</span></span><br /> -Mackenzie, G. S., i. 37, 48, 59-60, 63, 65.<br /> -Mackinnon, John, i. 35.<br /> -Mackinnon, Peter, i. 35.<br /> -Mackinnon, Sir Wm., Prefatory to, i. 1-10;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and relief to Emin, 31-5;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Congo route, 44-5;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">farewell banquet, 48;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">letter to the Sultan of Zanzibar, 61-2, 67, 118-19;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Barttelot’s report to, 527-33;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Mackay and, ii. 431.</span><br /> -Mackinnon Mountain, ii. 317-18;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">cove, 367.</span><br /> -McMichael, N., i. 35.<br /> -MacNeil, D., i. 35.<br /> -Madi tribe, i. 426;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">carriers, 428-29, 433, 472-4, 476-92; ii. 20, 24, 27, 35, 47, 58, 110;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">chief, 281.</span><br /> -<i>Madura</i>, B.I.S.N. Co.'s s.s., i. 60, 63, 66, 75, 79-80.<br /> -Magungo, on Albert Nyanza, i. 444.<br /> -Mahdi (Mohamet Achmet), i. 14;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">at Khartoum, 25;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">at Rimo, 27, 413-14, 427;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">forces defeated by Shukri Agha, 448;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">forces, ii. 120, 122-4, 133, 135, 233, 241-4.</span><br /> -Majato, Manyuema headman, i. 513.<br /> -Majinga Island, ii. 418.<br /> -Makara Plain, ii. 335-6, 343-5.<br /> -Makata Plain, ii. 447.<br /> -Makkaraka, ii. 224, 245.<br /> -Makoko’s village, i. 91.<br /> -Makolo, ii. 369, 434, 444.<br /> -Makraka cattle raids, i. 423.<br /> -Makrisi and the Nile, ii. 308-9.<br /> -Makubana, i. 492.<br /> -Makukuru village, i. 386.<br /> -Malai tribe, ii. 161, 174, 210.<br /> -Malaria, remarks about, ii. 31-32.<br /> -Malissa, chief, ii. 435-8.<br /> -“Malwa,” or beer, ii. 403, 411, 416.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_544" id="page_544"></a>{544}</span><br /> -Mamara, ii. 441.<br /> -Mambanga, camp opposite, i. 167, 484; ii. 24.<br /> -Manbungu, i. 167, 261-3, 455-6, 469.<br /> -Mandé, i. 268, 375;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">woman of, 453.</span><br /> -Mangola River, i. 84.<br /> -Manioc Zanzibaris and, ii. 5-11.<br /> -Manginni, ii. 24.<br /> -Manyanga, i. 85.<br /> -Manyuema, i. 141, 199;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">followers of Kilonga Longa, 218-19, 231-5;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">headmen at Ipoto, 238;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">morals of, 241-2;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and our rifles, 244-5, 469-71;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and relief of Nelson, 247, 261, 264-73, 350;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Fort Bodo, 352; ii. 12, 16, 22, 24, 27, 28, 35, 37-8, 47;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">girl, 34;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">headmen, 13, 19;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">insane women, 20;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">the wife of ——</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">drummer, 29, 49, 64, 110, 119, 148;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">raiders, 273, 352, 378.</span><br /> -Map-makers, ii. 292-3, 299-300;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">in books of travel, 334-35.</span><br /> -Marco, Greek trader, ii. 147, 156, 157, 176.<br /> -Margarita Philosophica, map of, ii. 296.<br /> -Mariri, Lower and Upper, i. 157-8;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">rapids, 491;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">rapids and villages, ii. 16.</span><br /> -“Marwa” wine, i. 299.<br /> -Masai, a horde of, ii. 445.<br /> -Masai Land route, i. 32-4, 53.<br /> -Masakuma, ii. 361, 365-7.<br /> -Mason Bey, i. 51-2;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Albert Nyanza, 328, 444, 332, 334, 336;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Ruwenzori, 430; ii. 314.</span><br /> -Mataddi, i. 76, 79, 80, 90; ii. 31.<br /> -Mathews, General, i. 29, 60-1;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">mimicking, 371; ii. 474.</span><br /> -Matyera, interpreter, ii. 282.<br /> -Mavona Valley, ii. 382.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_545" id="page_545"></a>{545}</span><br /> -Maxim automatic gun, i. 38, 116;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">compared to Tippu-Tib, 127;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">ii. 306, 379, 437.</span><br /> -Maza Mankengi, i. 83.<br /> -Mazamba wood, i. 84.<br /> -Mazamboni’s Peak, i. 303;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">range, 304-9;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Chief, 313; ii. 118, 206, 208, 210-11; 223, 391;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">arms of, i. 318, 346-7, 378, 380-4;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">his guides, 386, 425, 452;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Musiri, 434-5;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Phalanx dance by his warriors, 436-41.</span><br /> -Mbiassi, chief of Kavalli district, i. 386, 390, 392-4, 425.<br /> -Mbiri, millet fields of, i. 298;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">cataract near, 314.</span><br /> -Mboga, ii. 256;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">natives of, 258;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">height of, 262.</span><br /> -Mbutti village, i. 375.<br /> -Mbwenni, i. 60.<br /> -Medze tribe, ii. 34.<br /> -Melindwa, ii. 129, 140, 174, 176, 391.<br /> -Memberri, i. 205.<br /> -Meteorology: rain, i. 100-1, 156-7, 188-9, 338, 418-19;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">wind, 100-1, 144-5, 153, 262, 388-9, 409, 421-2;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">temperature, 149-50, 423, 425-6, 430-1;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">rain, ii. 34, 38-9;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">in the forest, 82, 86, 93-4, 255-6, 262, 271, 355;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">wind, 30, 39, 81-2;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">in the forest, 93-4, 318-21, 365, 376, 392, 413;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">temperature, 34.</span><br /> -Mhuma warrior, i. 384-5, 389.<br /> -Mikonju chief, ii. 285.<br /> -Missionary Station Usambiro, ii. 422-31, 433.<br /> -Mississi River, ii. 318.<br /> -Mittinginya, ii. 444-5.<br /> -Miwale River, i. 453.<br /> -Mkiyo village, ii. 342;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">lake of, 343.</span><br /> -Mobangi River, i. 107.<br /> -Mogo, Chief, ii. 121, 124, 129, 140.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_546" id="page_546"></a>{546}</span><br /> -Mohammed Arabi, ii. 429.<br /> -Mohammed Biri, ii. 245.<br /> -Mohammed, Corporal Dayn, ii. 53.<br /> -Mohammed Emin, ii. 167, 178, 186.<br /> -Mohammed Effendi, the engineer and wife, ii. 191-7;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Emin, 469.</span><br /> -Mohammedans, ii. 368, 381.<br /> -Mombasa, i. 59.<br /> -Momvu tribes, i. 194; ii. 97, 100.<br /> -Monangwa, capture of a, ii. 436, 441.<br /> -Monbuttu, visited by Emin, i. 400, 403;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">route, 419;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">tribe, arms of, ii. 22, 97;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Emin and — land, 240.</span><br /> -Monkeys, i. 262.<br /> -Mongoose, i. 449.<br /> -Morogoro, ii. 448.<br /> -Mosquito curtain, ii. 33.<br /> -Mountains of the Moon. <i>See</i> “Ruwenzori.”<br /> -Mpanga River, ii. 354, 367.<br /> -Mpigwa, chief of Nyamsassi, i. 386, 425, 431; ii. 126, 158, 161-2;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Emin, 176, 395-6.</span><br /> -Mpinga (<i>see</i> “Gavira”), chief of Bavira, ii. 210.<br /> -Mpororo, ii. 354, 369, 373, 387, 405.<br /> -Mpozo River, i. 80.<br /> -Mpwapwa Station, ii. 446-7.<br /> -Mrima, Zanzibari, ii. 158.<br /> -Msalala, i. 73, 404, 408; ii. 449.<br /> -Msharasha (Zanzibari), i. 349.<br /> -Msongwa, forest of, i. 449.<br /> -Msua, ii. 450-3.<br /> -Mswa Station, i. 390, 395, 418, 424; ii. 140, 179, 199, 224-6, 233, 245;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">chimpanzees and fruit of, i. 449.</span><br /> -Mswata, i. 95, 103.<br /> -Mtagata hot springs, ii. 406, 410.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_547" id="page_547"></a>{547}</span><br /> -<br /> -Mtarega, ii. 275, 281, 322-3.<br /> -Mtesa, King, ii. 381, 411.<br /> -Mtsora, ii. 283, 285-6, 323.<br /> -Muanza, ii. 438.<br /> -Muggi Station, ii. 122, 133.<br /> -Mugwyé, chief of My-yui, i. 166; ii. 24.<br /> -Muhalala, ii. 446.<br /> -Muhamba, ii. 286, 323.<br /> -Muhokya Village, ii. 349.<br /> -Muini Somai, Sheik, i. 527-47; ii. 477.<br /> -Muini Usagara, ii. 447.<br /> -Mukangi, i. 452; ii. 118.<br /> -Mukondokwa Valley, ii. 447.<br /> -Mukungu, ii. 347;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">huts of, 347-8.</span><br /> -Mukupi camp, i. 165.<br /> -Mupé, North and South, villages, i. 158-9, 491;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">South, ii. 16.</span><br /> -Murabo, i. 266;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">our “medicine man,” 382-3, 481.</span><br /> -Murchison Bay, island near, ii. 370.<br /> -Murray, Hugh, and the River Nile, ii. 300.<br /> -Musiri, Chief, i. 433-5, 441; ii. 391-2.<br /> -Muta Nzigé, lakes so named by different tribes, ii. 421.<br /> -Mutara, ii. 415.<br /> -Mutundu, ii. 391-2.<br /> -Mwanga, King of Uganda, ii. 359, 367-71 (<i>see</i> “Uganda”); 380-2, 411-13, 417, 421, 424-31.<br /> -Mwani, Chief, i. 258.<br /> -Mwembi, i. 86.<br /> -Mwengi, Chief, ii. 417.<br /> -Mwité, Chief, ii. 159.<br /> -Mysomé Island, ii. 418.<br /> -My-yui (or Mugwé’s) camp, i. 165-6, 484.<br /> -<br /> -<a name="N" id="N">N</a>amianja, River and Valley, ii. 376-8, 405.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_548" id="page_548"></a>{548}</span><br /> -Nassib (Zanzibari), i. 478-9.<br /> -Natural History, <i>see</i> “Ornithology,” “Zoölogy,” “Botany,” &c.<br /> -Navabi, i. 202-4; falls, 477.<br /> -<i>Navarino</i>, s.s., i. 46, 48, 58, 59.<br /> -Ndagara or Unyagumbwa, ii. 411-12, 414.<br /> -Nderi, dwarfs of, i. 367.<br /> -Ndugubisha, i. 263, 468.<br /> -Ndumba Village, i. 153.<br /> -Nebassé, i. 261.<br /> -Nejambi Rapids, i. 171-2, 482; ii. 27.<br /> -Nelson, Captain, i. 5, 7; ii. 112, 115, 158, 168-9, 179-81, 183;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">weight of, 190;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Emin, 237, 255, 257, 260-1, 265, 275, 276, 350;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">illness of, 353;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Kiengo and, 412, 413, 479;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">engaged for the relief staff, i. 42;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">departure, 48;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Soudanese and Zanzibaris, 73;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">sketch of, 74, 95;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">orders to and duties of, 96-8;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">at Yambuya, 128;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">memorandum for advance-column officers, 129-31;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">farewell to Barttelot, 136-7, 154, 161, 178, 182, 213;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">illness of, and other followers, 220-1;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">anxiety regarding, 241;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">relief of, arranged, 247-9;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">report, 249-53;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">at Ipoto, 272-3, 359, 362-3, 367;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">at Fort Bodo, 454, 458-9, 466;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Starvation camp, 249, 253, 471.</span><br /> -Nepanga Island and Falls (<i>see</i> Panga), i. 168-9.<br /> -Nepoko River, i. 165, 193, 209, 370; ii. 29.<br /> -Nera, ii. 441-2.<br /> -Nestor, i. 381-3.<br /> -Neuville, the Prior of, and the River Nile, ii. 302-3.<br /> -Ngaiyu River, i. 208; ii. 30, 33, 34, 100.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_549" id="page_549"></a>{549}</span><br /> -Ngalyema, i. 93-119.<br /> -Ngoki River, ii. 44.<br /> -Ngoti, ii. 417.<br /> -Ngula River, i. 167, 483;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">camp, ii. 26.</span><br /> -Ngwetza, ii. 61-71.<br /> -<i>Nieman</i>, s.s., i. 75-6.<br /> -Nile, sources of the river, ii. 291-312, 314-15, 325;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">White Nile, 336;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Albertine Nile, 357;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Alexandra, 359, 376, 405, 412; valley, 382.</span><br /> -Nindo people, ii. 430.<br /> -Njalis, i. 262.<br /> -Nkalama River, i. 90.<br /> -Noailles, Countess de, i. 35, 43.<br /> -Nsabé camp, i. 399, 418-27; ii. 122-4, 128, 135-7.<br /> -Nselo, i. 89.<br /> -Nsinda Mountain, ii. 362.<br /> -Nsona Mamba, of Lower Congo, i. 219.<br /> -Nsongi River, ii. 318, 351, 354.<br /> -Nubar Pasha, i. 17;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Congo route, 49, 51-2;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">letter to Emin, 58, 401-3;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Emin’s pay, 406, 428;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">letter from, ii. 121, 131-2, 180, 467.</span><br /> -Nubians and rhinoceros, ii. 406-9.<br /> -Nyamatoso settlement, ii. 373.<br /> -Nyamagazani River, ii. 318, 337, 339.<br /> -Nyamagoju camp, ii. 418.<br /> -Nyam-Nyam tribe, arms of, ii. 22, 97;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">language of, 490.</span><br /> -Nyamsassi, i. 337, 386., 391-2, 395;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">island, 291;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Baker and, 400, 423, 424; ii. 118, 124-7, 135, 137.</span><br /> -Nyangwé, i. 127, 527.<br /> -<i>Nyanza</i>, s.s., i. 426; ii. 126, 144, 146, 160, 176.<br /> -Nyanzas, the different, ii. 283-4.<br /> -Nyika, King of Usongora, ii. 345;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">son of, 372.</span><br /> -Nzalli’s camp, i. 468.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_550" id="page_550"></a>{550}</span><br /> -Nzera Kum Hill, i. 309-10, 382, 441.<br /> -<br /> -<a name="O" id="O">O</a>kili, Captain Casati’s servant, ii. 255.<br /> -Omar, Sergeant, of the Soudanese, ii. 208-10.<br /> -Omar Saleh, ii. 122, 133, 248-9.<br /> -Omar al Khattab, ii. 135.<br /> -<i>Oriental</i>, s.s., i. 59.<br /> -Ornithology:<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">aquatic birds, i. 152;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">guinea fowl, 223;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">eagles, 358;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">black ibis, 358;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">herons, 358;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">kites at Badzwa, 394;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">wagtails and weaver birds, 359;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Emin’s bird studies, 451;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">fowls, ii. 15, 28, 62;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">ibises, 45;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">eagles, 45, 90;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">parrots and other birds, 45, 90;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">birds in the forest, 88, 90;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">bats, 88; Emin and birds, 163-4, 175, 267;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">cranes, herons, &c., 343, 348, 414-5.</span><br /> -Osman Digna, letter from, ii. 248-9.<br /> -Osman Latif Effendi, ii. 170, 178, 183-4, 202;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and the Koran, 206-7, 220.</span><br /> -Oyster-shells, heaps of, i. 154.<br /> -<br /> -<a name="P" id="P">P</a>alaballa camp, i. 83.<br /> -Panga Falls, i. 154, 165, 168-9, 194, 483; ii. 26.<br /> -Parke, Surgeon T. H., i. 5-7; ii. 31-2, 72, 112, 114;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Surgeon to Expedition, i. 49, 58;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">vaccinating the men, 73;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and s.s. <i>Stanley</i>, 95;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">orders to, and duties of, 96-8, 103, 105, 128;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">memorandum for advance-column officers, 129-31;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">stung by bees, 143-4;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and weaver birds, 151-2, 161;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">the good surgeon, 195, 218;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">fanciful menus, 226-7, 233;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">report, 250, 253, 272, 359;<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_551" id="page_551"></a>{551}</span></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">report of, 360-2;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Stanley’s illness, 367, 371;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">first view of the grass-land, 376, 390, 420, 422, 430-1;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">at Fort Bodo, 458-9, 466, 468-70;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">letter to Major Barttelot, 490;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">address to, 116-18, 155, 162-3, 167-8, 179-81, 189;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">weight of, 190, 208-9, 211-12;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">illness of, 216, 352, 466;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Emin, 237, 260-1, 276;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">pigmy damsel and, 410, 460;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Emin’s accident, 461, 465, 479.</span><br /> -Parrots, i. 262, 449.<br /> -Pauncefote, Sir J., i. 46.<br /> -<i>Peace</i>, Mission Steamer, letter from donor, i. 47, 85-6, 90-1, 92;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Yambuya, 101-7, 112-16.</span><br /> -Pelly, Colonel Sir Lewis, i. 46, 50.<br /> -Pender, Sir John, i. 66.<br /> -Pfeil, Count, i. 59.<br /> -Phalanx Dance, a, i. 436-38.<br /> -Physical Geography, <i>see</i>” Rivers,” “Cataracts,” “Falls,” “Islands,” &c.<br /> -Piaggia, traveller, and Monbuttu, i. 400.<br /> -Pigmies, <i>see</i> “Dwarfs.”<br /> -Pisgah, Mount, i. 281-3, 375, 376; ii. 94, 116, 124, 175, 315, 333, 390.<br /> -Poisoned arrows, <i>see</i> “Arms.”<br /> -Poison used for arrows, ii. 107-8.<br /> -Poli-Poli, guide, ii. 438.<br /> -Ponta da Lenha, i. 76.<br /> -Portal, Mr., i. 29.<br /> -Portugal and Africa, i. 69.<br /> -Power, Mr., Consul of Khartoum, i. 21, 23.<br /> -Price, Rev. Mr., ii. 447.<br /> -Prout, Expedition under Colonel, i. 443-4.<br /> -Ptolemy’s map of Africa, ii. 294, 300,<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Nile, 301.</span><br /> -Purdy, Expedition under Colonel, i. 443-4.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_552" id="page_552"></a>{552}</span><br /> -<a name="R" id="R"></a>Rajab, Emin’s clerk, ii. 163, 268.<br /> -Raki, a kind of Russian Vodka, i. 426.<br /> -Rami River, ii. 274, 318.<br /> -Rami Lulu River gorge, ii. 275, 281, 318, 328.<br /> -“Randy,” fox terrier and guinea fowl, i. 223;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Randy’s food, 232;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and the rats, 355;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">the last of, 459; ii. 93.</span><br /> -Raouf Pasha and cattle raids, i. 423.<br /> -Rashid, Tippu-Tib’s nephew, i. 70.<br /> -Rashid bin Omar, Head Chief, i. 213-5, 228, 247, 291, 347, 472-3, 484-5, 491.<br /> -Rashid, Chief, ii. 59-60, 139, 145.<br /> -Rats, at Fort Bodo, i. 355.<br /> -Ravidongo, a general of Kabba Rega’s, i. 432; ii. 258.<br /> -Rear column, instructions to officers commanding, i. 117-9;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">garrison of, 133;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">start for relief of, 457-9;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">anxiety about, 460-1;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Lieut. Stairs and, 464-5;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">no news of, 489-90;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">the sad story of the, 498-526;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Barttelot’s report of, 527-33;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">log of, 533-47.</span><br /> -Red Sea, and Stanley’s servant, i. 58-9.<br /> -Refuse heaps of villages, ii. 348.<br /> -Rehan, ii. 213-16;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Major—Agha Ibrahim, 243.</span><br /> -“Reilly” rifle, i. 213.<br /> -Rejaf Station, i. 447-8; ii. 120, 121, 123-4, 131-5, 243.<br /> -Rendi Creek, i. 162.<br /> -Rendi River, ii. 16.<br /> -Reptiles; snakes and, i. 357-8, 426; ii. 90;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Emin and, 267-8;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and pythons, i. 450.</span><br /> -Richards, Mr. and Mrs., of the L. I. Mission, i. 85.<br /> -Rivers, <i>see</i> Aruwimi, Chai, Congo, Dui, Ihuru, Katonga, Lenda, Mpanga, Namianja, Nepoko, Ngaiyu, Ngula, Rami Lulu, Rwizi, Semliki, &c.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_553" id="page_553"></a>{553}</span><br /> -Rothkirch, Baron von, i. 84, 95.<br /> -Royal Geographical Society, London, i. 35; ii. 13, 16.<br /> -Royal Scottish Geographical Society, ii. 13, 16.<br /> -<i>Royal</i>, steamer, i. 77.<br /> -Royle, Mr., and Baker’s defeat at Tokar, i. 17.<br /> -Rozaka, ii. 413.<br /> -Ruampara Range, ii. 373, 376.<br /> -Ruanda, i. 53, 63; ii. 343, 345, 354, 359-60, 373, 387, 405.<br /> -Rubutu River, ii. 274, 318.<br /> -Rudimi, Chief of Usiri, ii. 176.<br /> -Ruguji tribe, ii. 160, 176, 392.<br /> -Ruhandika, King, ii. 270.<br /> -Ruigi, King, ii. 347, 353, 366.<br /> -Rukara, ii. 284;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">cattle of, 289-90, 339;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Katwé, 344, 347-50.</span><br /> -Rukoki River, ii. 318, 349.<br /> -Ruku Creek, i. 173.<br /> -Rumanika, ii. 411-2.<br /> -Rumondo Island, ii. 418.<br /> -Rusango River, ii. 318, 367, 405.<br /> -Rusessé zeriba, ii. 289-90, 337.<br /> -Rusirubi River, ii. 318.<br /> -Rusussu Valley, ii. 376.<br /> -Ruverahi River, ii. 290, 318.<br /> -Ruwenzori, first view of, i. 429-30;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">the “Cloud King,” ii. 175, 190, 208;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“Ukonju,” 251, 256, 257, 262-3;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“Bugombowa,” 263, 268-72, 274-6;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Stair’s ascent of, 276-80;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">names for, 284;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">view of, 286;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">from Karimi, 289;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">from Mtsora, 323;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Mountains of the Moon in old maps (Mount Gumr), 291-313, 313-33, 336-9, 349, 357, 479.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_554" id="page_554"></a>{554}</span></span><br /> -Ruysch, John, map of Africa, ii. 297.<br /> -Rwimi River, ii. 286, 318.<br /> -Rwizi River, ii. 371-2, 376, 377, 405.<br /> -<br /> -<a name="S" id="S">S</a>aat Tato (or “Three O’clock,” the hunter), i. 184, 200, 205, 213, 264-5, 302, 341, 345, 374, 395, 409; ii. 146, 170, 254.<br /> -Saadi, i. 187, 189-90, 204.<br /> -Sabadu, ii. 369.<br /> -Saburi (boy), ii. 64-5, 69, 71.<br /> -Sadi, Chief, ii. 49, 69.<br /> -Said bin Saif, <i>alias</i> Kipanda, ii. 368.<br /> -Sali, the tent-boy, i. 273-4, 480-1; ii. 185-6, 197-8, 460, 466, 471.<br /> -Salim, son of Massoud, i. 89-90, 120, 301;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Tippu-Tib’s nephew, 513-14, 524.</span><br /> -Salim, the son of Rashid, ii. 7-11.<br /> -Salim bin Mohammed, ii. 16-20, 182.<br /> -Salt lakes of Katwé, ii. 340-4.<br /> -Salt, packet of native, i. 376.<br /> -Samuel, Waganda Christian, ii. 367-71, 380-2.<br /> -“Sanford” Exploring Company, i. 95, 107.<br /> -Sanga (Barttelot’s assassin), i. 499, 518, 520, 545-6.<br /> -Sangarameni, headman, i. 238, 246, 361.<br /> -Sangwé-Mirembé Promontory, ii. 323.<br /> -Sarmini, i. 367.<br /> -Scheabeddin’s description of the River Nile, ii. 310.<br /> -Schmidt, Lieutenant R., ii. 446-8, 453, 461.<br /> -Schintze, Père, ii. 445.<br /> -Schnitzer, Edward, <i>see</i> “Emin Pasha.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_555" id="page_555"></a>{555}</span>”<br /> -Schweinfurth, Professor, and Congo route, i. 49, 52-4, 58;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Monbuttu, 400;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“Artes Africanæ,” ii. 22, 164, 268.</span><br /> -Seké, ii. 441-2.<br /> -Selim Bey, i. 423; ii. 134, 148, 152, 156, 160, 176-81, 183-4, 199-203, 214, 217-20;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">letters from, 223-7.</span><br /> -Semliki Valley, ii. 256, 268-9, 275, 280, 283;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">description of, 317-25, 328-32, 337, 479.</span><br /> -Semliki River, ii. 226, 258;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">ferrying, 260, 263, 269, 284-6, 317, 392.</span><br /> -Serour, a Monbuttu boy, ii. 197, 203, 209.<br /> -<i>Serpa Pinto</i>, paddle-boat, i. 76-7.<br /> -Seyyid Barghash, Sultan of Zanzibar, i. 37, 60, 61-3, 67, 69, 264; ii. 18;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and the Germans, 381.</span><br /> -Shukri Agha, Commandant of Mswa Station, i. 395, 431, 447-9; ii. 121-3, 135, 147, 173-4, 177-8;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">notice to, 181, 210, 217;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">arrival, 220, 233, 246-7, 473.</span><br /> -Sibaliki, Chief, ii. 270.<br /> -Simba, i. 273-4; ii. 444.<br /> -Simbamwenni, ii. 448.<br /> -Sims, Dr., and s.s. <i>Peace</i>, i. 92-4.<br /> -Singiri River, ii. 274-318.<br /> -Sinyanga, ii. 442.<br /> -Smith, Dr., ii. 380.<br /> -Smith, Mr. Harrison, i. 31.<br /> -Smith, Colonel Euan, ii. 445, 472-3.<br /> -Smith, Mackenzie, and Company, i. 37, 48.<br /> -Somalis, i. 83, 126, 157, 164.<br /> -Somalis, the, ii. 4-11;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">last of, 57-8.</span><br /> -Soswa Island, ii. 418.<br /> -Soudan, the, i. 12, 15-17, 414.<br /> -Soudanese soldiers, i. 67-8, 72-3, 80, 85, 87-8, 120, 129, 194, 529;<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_556" id="page_556"></a>{556}</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Emin’s, 399, 450;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">the Soudanese, ii. 1-11, 22, 116, 126, 127, 141, 146, 159, 198-206, 208, 214-16, 378, 415-16, 434.</span><br /> -Soudi, Barttelot’s boy, i. 518; ii. 29, 34.<br /> -Speke, Captain, i. 12, 50;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Mtsea, ii. 411-12.</span><br /> -Stairs, Lieutenant W. G., i. 5, 7, 42-3, 48, 74, 80;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">orders to, 97-8, 116, 128, 129-31, 132-3, 151, 161;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">wounded by a poisoned arrow, 174-9, 189, 217-18, 226-7, 232, 274, 313-14, 315-17, 336, 341, 347, 352-54, 363, 364, 365, 366, 453, 485;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">at Fort Bodo, 454, 458-9;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">report of, 454-6, 461-5, 465-7; ii. 112, 113-14, 115-18, 139-40;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">letter from, 145-6, 155, 159-60, 170-3, 176, 179-81;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">weight of, 190, 203, 211;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and capture of Rehan, 213-16;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and ammunition, 220;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Emin, 237, 255;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">illness of, 260, 265, 275, 371;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">report of ascent of Ruwenzori, 276-78, 352;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Semliki River, 297, 453, 473-4, 479.</span><br /> -Stanley, H. M., work on the Congo River, i. 19-20, 78;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">the Congo route, 33, 34;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">purchases, 37-9, 46-7;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Sandringham, 48, 49, 58, 59;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">orders to officers, 97-8;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">the command of rear column, 106;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Baruti, 110;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">instructions to Major Barttelot, 117-19;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">conversation with Major Barttelot referring to Tippu-Tib, 119-28;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">memorandum for advance column officers, 129-31, 136;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">officers, 161;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Avisibba bow and arrows, 180, 192, 204, 209, 213-15, 223, 229, 230-1;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Bible, 311-12;<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_557" id="page_557"></a>{557}</span></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">prostrated by ague, 348, 366;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and inflammation of the stomach, 367, 369;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Chief Mazamboni, 380-3;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">first letter from Emin, 389-90;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and answer, 391-2;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">meeting with Emin, 396;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">conversation with Emin about leaving the Province, 401-6, 410-17, 420-3;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Emin’s officers, 423;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">cattle raids, 423-4;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Emin and sextant, 425, 426;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">message to Emin’s troops, 427-8;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">two letters from Emin, 431-2;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Kadongo and, 434;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">visit from Shukri Agha, 447-9;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">natural history facts by Emin related to, 449-51;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">at Fort Bodo, 457-8;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">anxiety about rear column, 460-1, 492;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">conversation and instructions to Lieut. Stairs, 461-7;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and forest marching, 479-80;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">rumors about, 502-3;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and the story of the rear column, 526-50;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Barttelot’s report, 527-33;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">log of rear column, 533-47;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">(Bula Matari) and Zanzibaris, ii. 1-11;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">letter to Jameson, 15-16;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and breaches of promise, 21;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and fever, 31-2;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">clothes, 47;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Starvation Camp, 48, 63-71;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Chimpanzee skulls, 93;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">address by, 116-18;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">letters from Emin and Jephson, 120-4;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">replies to the same, 124-9;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Emin’s letters to, 137-8, 144-5;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">letter to revolted officers, 156;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Emin and the dwarfs, 164-7;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Egyptian baggage, 170-3;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Balegga Hills, 175;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Selim Bey, 177-8;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">address to officers re Selim Bey, 179-81;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Osman Latif Effendi, 183-4;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and boy Sali, 185-6;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Captain Casati, 186-9;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">weight of, 190;<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_558" id="page_558"></a>{558}</span></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Emin Pasha and men, 198-206, 217-20;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">illness, 211-13, 216, 220, 260, 353, 376;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Rehan, 214-16;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">study of Emin Pasha, 228, 249;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Egyptians, 252-5;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Emin Pasha, 267-8;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and maps, 292-3, 334-5;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">routes to the coast, 358-60;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">meeting with Mr. Mackay, 423-7;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Mackay’s last letter to, 429-31;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">letters and news clippings, 449-50;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Gordon Bennett and, 450-3;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">at Bagamayo, 454-61;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">visit to Emin, 465-6;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Emin, 468-73;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">at Zanzibar, 473-7;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">at Cairo, 477-80.</span><br /> -<i>Stanley</i>, s.s., i. 75, 76, 85, 90, 92, 95, 101-10, 120-4, 128, 132, 461-3, 505, 512-16, 528, 532.<br /> -Stanley Falls, i. 63-5, 69-72, 120-4, 415, 511-26; ii. 15;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Pool, 31.</span><br /> -Stanley Pool, i. 86, 103.<br /> -Starvation Camp, i. 3-4;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;"><i>see</i> “Nelson;” ii. 48, 63-71.</span><br /> -Stephenson, General, i. 56, 58.<br /> -Stevens, Mr. Thomas, ii. 450.<br /> -Stewart, Colonel, i. 20, 23.<br /> -Stewart, Sir Herbert, i. 23-5.<br /> -Stokes, Mr., ii. 370-1, 381-2, 427, 435, 444.<br /> -Stone Pasha and Gordon, i. 444.<br /> -Strauch, General, and Stanley Pool, i. 86.<br /> -Suez, i. 58.<br /> -Sulimani, ii. 48.<br /> -Sullivan, Admiral, i. 45.<br /> -Sultan of Zanzibar, <i>see</i> “Seyyid Barghash.”<br /> -Surur Aga, ii. 132.<br /> -Swinburne at Kinshassa, i. 85, 95-6, 462.<br /> -Sylvannus’ Map of Africa, ii. 297.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_559" id="page_559"></a>{559}</span><br /> -<br /> -<a name="T" id="T">T</a>am, native of Johanna, ii. 28, 29.<br /> -Tanganika Lake, i. 63, 65; ii. 300, 359;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and party of 100 Swedes, i. 240.</span><br /> -Tempest, a forest, ii. 81-2.<br /> -Tewfik, Khedive, and Congo route, i. 49, 56;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">High Order handed me for Emin Pasha, 56-7, 401-3, 405;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">propositions to Emin from, 410-11, 427.</span><br /> -Thermometer readings, Ruwenzori, ii. 277.<br /> -Thomson, Mr. J., and Masai Land route, i. 31, 32, 35, 47.<br /> -“Three O’clock,” the hunter, <i>see</i> “Saat Tato.”<br /> -Tigrane Pasha, i. 52, 58.<br /> -<i>Times</i>, letter to the, re Tippu-Tib, i. 127.<br /> -Tippu-Tib, i. 53, 63-5;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Emin’s ivory, 64, 71;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">negotiations with, 65, 67-9;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">the Belgians and Stanley Falls, 69-71;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Cape Town, 74-5;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">proposed visit to England, 75;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Salim, 90;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Major Barttelot proceed to Stanley Falls, 108, 115-16;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Major Barttelot and, 119-28, 239, 370, 463-5;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and rear column, 498-526;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Barttelot’s report of, 527-33;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">log of rear column, 533-47; ii. 12-14, 16, 107; caravan of, 446;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Jaffar Tarya and carriers, 474-7.</span><br /> -Tobacco, i. 290.<br /> -Toro, ii. 279, 284, 343, 345;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">hills of, 349, 351, 362, 403.</span><br /> -Trees, fallen, in the forest, ii. 92-3.<br /> -Tribes, <i>see</i> “Ethnology.”<br /> -Troup, John Rose, i. 6, 42, 80, 85;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">orders to, 97-8, 106, 372, 380, 462-3, 494;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and story of the rear column, 500-26, 528.</span><br /> -Tukabi, boy, ii. 257.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_560" id="page_560"></a>{560}</span><br /> -Tunguru Station, ii. 123, 127, 134, 135, 140, 147, 179, 233, 245.<br /> -Turkan Land, ii. 240.<br /> -Twin Cones of Ruwenzori, ii. 315.<br /> -<br /> -<a name="U" id="U">U</a>chu natives, ii. 61.<br /> -Uchunku, Prince Royal of Ankori, ii. 378-80.<br /> -Uddu, ii. 314, 369, 381-2.<br /> -Uganda, king of, i. 29, 30, 32, 53, 63, 64;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">shields, 318, 323;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Kabba Rega and, 407, 417; ii. 314, 345;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">routes to coast, 358-60;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">events in, 368-71, 380-2, 411-13;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;"><i>see</i> also Mwanga, King of Uganda.</span><br /> -Ugarama village, ii. 264;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">spur of, 269-70, 328.</span><br /> -Ugarrowwa (called Uledi Balyuz), i. 199, 203-10, 211, 238, 363; ii. 12, 15, 16, 26;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">——’s old stations, 37, 107;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">invalids in care of, i. 454-6, 475-82, 484, 485-90.</span><br /> -Ugogo, ii. 446.<br /> -Uhaiya, ii. 387-8.<br /> -Uhaiyana, ii. 343, 345, 347, 351, 387.<br /> -Uhha, armlets, &c., of, i. 258;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">spears of, 318; ii. 386, 405.</span><br /> -Uhobo, ii. 255; natives of, 258.<br /> -Ujangwa clearing, i. 444-5.<br /> -Ujiji, ii. 359.<br /> -Ujungwa, ii. 252.<br /> -Ukerewé, ii. 300, 434.<br /> -Ukonju, ii. 270, 282-5, 343-4.<br /> -Ukuba, i. 453.<br /> -Ulaiya, ii. 209.<br /> -Uledi, i. 164, 227-8, 229, 245, 249, 263, 274, 292, 315-17, 349;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and queen of Pigmies, 367-8; ii. 48, 167, 254, 273.</span><br /> -Ulegga, ii. 282, 284, 322-3.<br /> -Umari (headman), i. 230, 240, 250, 275, 361.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_561" id="page_561"></a>{561}</span><br /> -Umeni, i. 216; camp, ii. 39.<br /> -Umpeté, ii. 422.<br /> -Undussuma, i. 2, 313, 319, 321, 346, 378, 380, 383, 390, 401, 452; ii. 31, 183;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">hills, 220.</span><br /> -Ungerengeri, ii. 449.<br /> -Unyabongo, i. 452.<br /> -Unyakatera camp, ii. 405.<br /> -Unya-Kavalli range, i. 430-1.<br /> -Unya-Matundu plateau, ii. 421.<br /> -Unya-Matundu Ruwamba, ii. 421.<br /> -Unyampaka, ii. 337, 343, 347, 353.<br /> -Unyamwambi River, ii. 318, 349.<br /> -Unyamwezi, i. 53; ii. 434, 446.<br /> -Unyoro, dome hut of, i. 258;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">table-land of, 324, 329, 400; ii. 317, 387-9;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">language of, i. 332;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Casati in, 407-8, 417, 432; ii. 159, 175, 191;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">cattle of, 393, 403.</span><br /> -Urigi, Lake, ii. 300, 413-15, 417.<br /> -Urima, ii. 438, 442.<br /> -Urindi, ii. 386, 405.<br /> -Uringa, ii. 284.<br /> -Urumangwa, i. 384, 441, 452.<br /> -Usambiro mission house, ii. 422-31.<br /> -Useni, ii. 414.<br /> -Usiri, i. 435, 543.<br /> -Usoga, ii. 381.<br /> -Usongo district, ii. 444.<br /> -Usongora, Casati and, i. 419; ii. 242, 284, 286, 289, 343, 345, 354;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">cattle of, 393;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">pit-water, 376-7, 479.</span><br /> -Usui, ii. 443; king of, 418-21.<br /> -Usukuma, ii. 434, 442-3.<br /> -Usumbwa herdsmen, ii. 387-8.<br /> -Uthenga, ii. 413.<br /> -Utinda, ii. 252-5.<br /> -Utiri villages, i. 172, 192.<br /> -Utuku, ii. 263, 270, 285.<br /> -Uyogu, people of, ii. 444.<br /> -Uyombi, ii. 422.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_562" id="page_562"></a>{562}</span><br /> -Uzanza plain, ii. 391.<br /> -Uzanzi, i. 105, 386, 388.<br /> -Uzinja, ii. 421.<br /> -<br /> -<a name="V" id="V">V</a>accination of Zanzibaris, ii. 34-5.<br /> -Valentine Baker Pasha, i. 16-17, 22;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Nubar Pasha and, 52, 58.</span><br /> -Vandyck, Mr., of Cairo, i. 304.<br /> -Van Gele, Capt., i. 107, 532.<br /> -Van Kirkhoven of Bangala Station, i. 107, 503, 527-32.<br /> -Verrazano, H. de, map of Africa, ii. 298.<br /> -Vianzi, ii. 448.<br /> -Viaruha village, ii. 377-8.<br /> -Victoria Nile, i. 419.<br /> -Victoria Nyanza, and Emin, i. 416-18;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">march to, 423, 432;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">bay at N. E. end, ii. 292, 299-300, 304, 418-22, 432-6.</span><br /> -Villages, refuse heaps of the, i. 150;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">decaying, 469.</span><br /> -Vita Hassan, ii. 147, 155, 161, 186, 194.<br /> -Vombo, i. 86.<br /> -Vivi, ii. 32.<br /> -Vizetelly, Mr. E., ii. 450.<br /> -<br /> -<a name="W" id="W">W</a>abiassi tribe, i. 324; ii. 160, 210.<br /> -Waburu, i. 280, 453.<br /> -Wachunga tribe, ii. 386.<br /> -Wachwezi or Wanyankori tribe, ii. 284, 345, 362-6, 388-9.<br /> -Wadelai, i. 64, 333, 424; ii. 123, 133-7, 143, 145, 155, 179, 199, 224, 233, 245.<br /> -Wadi Asmani, headman, ii. 409.<br /> -Wadi Halfa, i. 56, 415, 427.<br /> -Wadi Khamis, ii. 158, 160, 376.<br /> -Wafipa tribe, ii. 386.<br /> -Waganda, i. 33; ii. 338, 353, 359-60;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Kabba Rega, 401;<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_563" id="page_563"></a>{563}</span></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Christians, 367, 371, 378, 380-2, 388, 392, 417, 421.</span><br /> -Wahha, the, i. 53.<br /> -Wahuma, i. 380, 385, 392;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">or Waiyana tribe, ii. 129, 176, 255, 284, 378;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">description of, 384-403, 422, 489.</span><br /> -Waiau tribe, ii. 386.<br /> -Waima or Wanyavingi tribe, ii. 284.<br /> -Waiyana or Wahuma tribe, ii. 284.<br /> -Wakanongo tribe, ii. 386.<br /> -Wakawendi tribe, ii. 386.<br /> -Wakonju people, ii. 283-6;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Ruwenzori, 332, 344-7, 349-51.</span><br /> -Wakovi tribe, ii. 284.<br /> -Wakungu, ii. 369.<br /> -Wakuri tribe, ii. 304, 312, 388.<br /> -Wales, T. R. H. Prince and Princess of, i. 48.<br /> -Walker, Mr., i. 79, 85, 95; ii. 429, 444;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and s.s. <i>Stanley</i>, i. 103-4, 115.</span><br /> -Waller, Rev. H., i. 50.<br /> -Wamaganga, ii. 372.<br /> -Wambutti dwarfs, i. 375, 385, 457; ii. 42, 100-9;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">measurements of, 164-7;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">language of, 489.</span><br /> -Wampoko, i. 95.<br /> -Wandui, ii. 445.<br /> -Wanguido tribe, ii. 386.<br /> -Wanyamavezi, music of, i. 436;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">tribe, ii. 386, 423.</span><br /> -Wanyankori or Wachwezi tribe, ii. 284, 359, 362-6, 372;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">milk of, 372;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">one of our officers and, 373-6; 378.</span><br /> -Wanyaturu tribe, ii. 445-6.<br /> -Wanyavingi or Waima tribe, ii. 269, 284, 344-5.<br /> -Wanyoro, ii. 157, 314, 338;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">tribe and Capt. Casati, i. 408.</span><br /> -Wara Sura, tribe of, i. 286, 332, 379, 381; ii. 159, 255, 260-1;<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_564" id="page_564"></a>{564}</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">raid of, 262, 264, 270-1, 273, 284, 290, 313, 338, 339, 344-6, 349, 351-2, 362-5, 391-2.</span><br /> -Ward, Herbert, i. 6, 83, 104, 106, 372, 380, 494;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and story of the rear column, 500-26;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">report, 524-26;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">log of rear column, 527-47.</span><br /> -Wasiri tribe, ii. 176.<br /> -Wasoki tribe, ii. 284.<br /> -Wasongora or Wawitu tribe, ii. 284, 337-8, 344, 345, 347, 349-51, 386, 388.<br /> -Wasp Rapids, i. 163, 210, 485; ii. 22.<br /> -Wasps, i. 163-4, 233.<br /> -Wasps and their nests, ii. 84.<br /> -Wasukuma tribe, ii. 386;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">fight with, 436-8.</span><br /> -Watson & Co., i. 38.<br /> -Watusi tribe, ii. 372, 387-8, 396, 399.<br /> -Watuta or Wangoni, ii. 444-5.<br /> -Watwa tribe of pigmies, ii. 42, 263, 264, 270, 272, 284.<br /> -Wavira tribe, ii. 176.<br /> -Wawitu or Wasongora tribe, ii. 284.<br /> -Wazinja, ii. 421.<br /> -Wazongora, ii. 269.<br /> -Wellcome, Henry S., and Katwé Salt, ii. 341-2.<br /> -Weré Camp, ii. 146.<br /> -Wester, Lieut., and Stanley Falls Station, i. 65.<br /> -Whitley, Capt., and s.s. <i>Peace</i>, i. 92, 102.<br /> -Wilkinson’s “Ancient Egyptians,” ii. 396-9.<br /> -Wills, Mr. J. T., i. 31.<br /> -Wilson, Sir Chas., i. 24.<br /> -Winton, Col. Sir F. de, i. 39-40, 46-9, 108.<br /> -Wissman, Major, ii. 447-8, 453, 458, 485.<br /> -Wolseley, Lord, and Arabi Pasha, i. 14;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and General Gordon, 20;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and the relief of Khartoum, 23-5;<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_565" id="page_565"></a>{565}</span></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Lieut. Stairs, 41.</span><br /> -Wombola, chief of, i. 452.<br /> -Wood, Sir Evelyn, i. 14.<br /> -Woods, in the forest, ii. 84;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">secrets of, 87-8.</span><br /> -Woods, trees, &c., <i>see</i> “Forests.”<br /> -Wyyanzi natives, i. 159.<br /> -Wyyanzi tribe, ii. 97.<br /> -<br /> -<a name="Y" id="Y">Y</a>ambuya, i. 110-14, 131-8;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">rapids of, 138, 158, 200-1;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">s.s. <i>Stanley</i> at, 461-5;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">story of the rear column at, 502-6;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">log of rear column, 527-47.</span><br /> -Yankondé natives, i. 138-9.<br /> -Younger, Henry J., i. 35.<br /> -Yumbu, i. 255.<br /> -Yusuf Effendi, ii. 352.<br /> -<br /> -<a name="Z" id="Z">Z</a>achariah, Waganda Christian, ii. 367-71, 380-2.<br /> -Zanzibar, i. 60; ii. 473-7.<br /> -Zanzibar, Sultan of, <i>see</i> “Seyyid Barghash.”<br /> -Zanzibaris, i. 53, 72-3, 79, 84, 86, 88, 91, 94, 96, 123, 129, 169, 172, 182-3, 194-5, 210-15, 227, 364, 387, 399, 420, 426, 428, 460, 475;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Sali, 480-1, 482, 483, 484, 486-9, 497, 529.</span><br /> -Zanzibaris, the, ii. 1-11, 16, 20, 22, 27, 29, 34-5, 38, 47, 58, 60-1, 110, 119, 130-1, 146, 148, 158, 164, 168-9, 173, 197-202;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Omar, 208-10;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Rehan, 216, 220, 266-7, 276-80, 352, 378, 413, 428, 453, 458, 474.</span><br /> -Zoölogy:<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">antelope, i. 218;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">buffalo, 358, 409, 425; ii. 89;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">crocodiles of Upper Congo, i. 101; ii. 88;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">claws of a, i. 419;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">chimpanzees, 262, 449; ii. 88, 90, 93, 101, 163, 279;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">lions, i. 450-1; ii. 367, 415, 421;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">monkeys, i. 262; ii. 45, 88, 90;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">mongoose, i. 449;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">lemur, i. 357; ii. 93;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">goats, i. 169;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">bush antelope, ii. 24-6, 88;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">elephants, 47, 78, 88, 89, 93, 113;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">squirrels, 90;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">hippopotami, 88, 415;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">rhinoceros, 406-9;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">donkeys, 91;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">cattle, 160, 275, 393;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">of Ikoma, 435;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">leopard, at Katwé, 346-7, 367;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">hyæna, 367, 415.</span><br /> -</p> - -<p class="figcenter"><a name="POCKET1" id="POCKET1"></a> -<a href="images/ill-map_route_emin_expedition_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" title="enlarge-image" -width="28" -height="28" /><span class="nonvis"><small>(10Mb)</small></span></a> -<a href="images/ill-map_route_emin_expedition_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /><span class="nonvis">(236kb)</span> -<br /> -<img src="images/ill-map_route_emin_expedition_sml.jpg" width="500" height="286" alt="A MAP OF THE ROUTE OF THE EMIN PASHA RELIEF EXPEDITION THROUGH AFRICA Copyright, 1890, by Charles Scribner’s Sons." -title="A MAP OF THE ROUTE OF THE EMIN PASHA RELIEF EXPEDITION THROUGH AFRICA Copyright, 1890, by Charles Scribner’s Sons." /></a><br /> -<span class="caption">A MAP OF THE ROUTE OF THE EMIN PASHA RELIEF EXPEDITION -THROUGH AFRICA<br /> -Copyright, 1890, by Charles Scribner’s Sons.</span> -</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_566" id="page_566"></a>{566}</span></p> - -<p class="figcenter"><a name="POCKET2" id="POCKET2"></a> -<a href="images/ill-mapt_emin_province_giant.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" title="enlarge-image" -width="28" -height="28" /><span class="nonvis"><small>(6MB)</small></span></a> -<a href="images/ill-mapt_emin_province_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /><span class="nonvis">(247kb)</span> -<br /> -<img src="images/ill-mapt_emin_province_sml.jpg" width="500" height="491" alt="A MAP OF EMIN PASHA’S PROVINCE. Copyright, 1890, by Charles Scribner’s Sons." -title="A MAP OF EMIN PASHA’S PROVINCE. Copyright, 1890, by Charles Scribner’s Sons." /></a><br /> -<span class="caption">A MAP OF EMIN PASHA’S PROVINCE.<br /> -Copyright, 1890, by Charles Scribner’s Sons.</span> -</p> - -<div class="footnotes"><h3><a name="FOOTNOTES" id="FOOTNOTES"></a>FOOTNOTES:</h3> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_1_1" id="Footnote_1_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> The Sketch Maps on pages 293 to 308 inclusive are from -tracings from ancient books in the Khedive’s library at Cairo.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_2_2" id="Footnote_2_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2_2"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> This proves that the Pasha endorses what Mr. Jephson -writes.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_3_3" id="Footnote_3_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_3_3"><span class="label">[3]</span></a> The Pasha appears to admit that he has read Mr. Jephson’s -letters.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_4_4" id="Footnote_4_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_4_4"><span class="label">[4]</span></a> I have read this letter scores of times, yet I fail to see -how this officially worded letter, which, as suggested by Mr. Jephson, -might have fallen into the rebel officers’ hands, could have wounded the -most delicate susceptibilities, yet I was informed that the Pasha was -very much offended at it. Nothing was further from my mind than to -affront a friend, my sole object being to obtain a definite answer to -the question “Will you stay here, or accompany me?”</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_5_5" id="Footnote_5_5"></a><a href="#FNanchor_5_5"><span class="label">[5]</span></a> Omar al Khattab, the second Caliph from Mohammed, said, -“Four things come not back; the spoken word; the sped arrow; the past -life; and the neglected opportunity.” I accept Mr. Jephson’s -explanations, but I nevertheless adhere to the belief that much -suffering and anxiety would have been avoided, and the imprisonment and -danger would have been impossible, had the promises been kept. July was -the date they should have started for Fort Bodo. The arrest took place -August 18th.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_6_6" id="Footnote_6_6"></a><a href="#FNanchor_6_6"><span class="label">[6]</span></a> I do not know what induced the Pasha to write in this -melancholy strain, for as plain as tongue could speak, and pen could -write, I had been endeavouring to explain to him that we considered -ourselves as his servants, and bound to render any service in our power -to him, provided he but distinctly and definitely stated his wishes.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_7_7" id="Footnote_7_7"></a><a href="#FNanchor_7_7"><span class="label">[7]</span></a> This kindly letter was after the Chesterfield style so -commended by Mr. Jephson, whose sharp wits had perceived the Pasha’s -extremely delicate susceptibilities. Oh dear! oh dear!</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_8_8" id="Footnote_8_8"></a><a href="#FNanchor_8_8"><span class="label">[8]</span></a> The Pasha has, however, severely refrained from -communicating anything.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_9_9" id="Footnote_9_9"></a><a href="#FNanchor_9_9"><span class="label">[9]</span></a> -</p> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary=""> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="5" class="smcap">List of Measurements taken on Wambutti pigmies belonging<br /> -to Mr. Stanley’s Expedition.</td></tr> - -<tr><td rowspan="2" valign="middle">Name of the Individuum <big>{</big> </td> -<td align="center" class="bl"> Tokbali. </td> -<td align="center" class="bl"> A girl. </td> -<td align="center" class="bl"> A woman. </td> -<td align="center" class="bl"> A boy.</td></tr> -<tr> <td align="right" class="bl"> P. 20 </td><td align="right" class="bl">I.H.P. 15 </td><td align="right" class="bl"> P. 35 </td><td align="right" class="bl"> P. 15</td></tr> -<tr><td>Height from vortex to the earth </td><td align="right" class="bl"> 1·360 m. </td><td align="right" class="bl"> 1·240 m. </td><td align="right" class="bl"> 1·365 m. </td><td align="right" class="bl"> 1·280 m.</td></tr> -<tr><td>Height from shoulder </td><td align="right" class="bl"> 1·116 m. </td><td align="right" class="bl"> 1·021 m. </td><td align="right" class="bl"> 1·110 m. </td><td align="right" class="bl"> 1·090 m.</td></tr> -<tr><td>Height from navel </td><td align="right" class="bl"> 0·835 m. </td><td align="right" class="bl"> 0·725 m. </td><td align="right" class="bl"> 0·785 m. </td><td align="right" class="bl"> 0·970 m.</td></tr> -<tr><td>Length of arm from shoulder to<br /> tip of middle finger </td><td align="right" class="bl"> 0·707 m. </td><td align="right" class="bl"> 0·571 m. </td><td align="right" class="bl"> 0·580 m. </td><td align="right" class="bl"> 0·540 m.</td></tr> -<tr><td>Breadth from shoulder to<br /> shoulder </td><td align="right" class="bl"> 0·320 m. </td><td align="right" class="bl"> 0·304 m. </td><td align="right" class="bl"> 0·295 m. </td><td align="right" class="bl"> 0·260 m.</td></tr> -<tr><td>Circumference below nipples </td><td align="right" class="bl"> 0·710 m. </td><td align="right" class="bl"> 0·660 m. </td><td align="right" class="bl"> 0·710 m. </td><td align="right" class="bl"> 0·640 m.</td></tr> -<tr><td>Circumference under armpit </td><td align="right" class="bl"> 0·720 m. </td><td align="right" class="bl"> 0·660 m. </td><td align="right" class="bl"> 0·710 m. </td><td align="right" class="bl"> 0·630 m.</td></tr> -<tr><td>Greatest longitudinal<br /> diameter of head </td><td align="right" class="bl"> 200 mm. </td><td align="right" class="bl"> 176 mm. </td><td align="right" class="bl"> 180 mm. </td><td align="right" class="bl"> 175 mm.</td></tr> -<tr><td>Smallest transversal<br /> diameter of head </td><td align="right" class="bl"> 147 mm. </td><td align="right" class="bl"> 150 mm. </td><td align="right" class="bl"> 145 mm. </td><td align="right" class="bl"> 140 mm.</td></tr> -<tr><td>Breadth of the nose </td><td align="right" class="bl"> 60 mm. </td><td align="right" class="bl"> 60·5 mm. </td><td align="right" class="bl"> 65 mm. </td><td align="right" class="bl"> 65 mm.</td></tr> -<tr><td>Circumference of skull </td><td align="right" class="bl"> 530 mm. </td><td align="right" class="bl"> 535 mm. </td><td align="right" class="bl"> 510 mm. </td><td align="right" class="bl"> 510 mm.</td></tr> -<tr><td>Length of foot </td><td align="right" class="bl"> 220·5 mm.</td><td align="right" class="bl"> 190 mm. </td><td align="right" class="bl"> 212 mm. </td><td align="right" class="bl"> 190 mm.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="5">Bodies covered with stiffish, grey, short hair.—<span class="smcap">Dr. Emin</span>.</td></tr> - -</table> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_10_10" id="Footnote_10_10"></a><a href="#FNanchor_10_10"><span class="label">[10]</span></a> This is added to make the table more complete.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_11_11" id="Footnote_11_11"></a><a href="#FNanchor_11_11"><span class="label">[11]</span></a> This list is not complete, inasmuch as Moslems have a -strong disinclination to permit their women to appear in public, others -affected not to understand the necessity of the muster.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_12_12" id="Footnote_12_12"></a><a href="#FNanchor_12_12"><span class="label">[12]</span></a> Several of the officers informed me that Emin was alone -responsible for the offer to the Mahdi of the surrender of the province. -He certainly signed the document, but I am inclined to believe that he -did it for the purpose of deceiving Karamalla, and his subsequent acts -seem to prove this.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_13_13" id="Footnote_13_13"></a><a href="#FNanchor_13_13"><span class="label">[13]</span></a> Judge Charles P. Daly, President of the American -Geographical Society, New York.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_14_14" id="Footnote_14_14"></a><a href="#FNanchor_14_14"><span class="label">[14]</span></a> It was devoted to the same uses down to the time of Emin -Pasha.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_15_15" id="Footnote_15_15"></a><a href="#FNanchor_15_15"><span class="label">[15]</span></a> Victoria Nyanza, Lake of Likuri, so called after a tribe -named the Wakuri, or Wakori, on the north shore of Lake Victoria, who -still exist there. See ‘Life of Bishop Hannington.’ This tribe of Wakuri -may be the remnant of what was once a powerful nation.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_16_16" id="Footnote_16_16"></a><a href="#FNanchor_16_16"><span class="label">[16]</span></a> I have not learned that Lieutenant Stairs in his ascent -was guilty of such extravagance.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_17_17" id="Footnote_17_17"></a><a href="#FNanchor_17_17"><span class="label">[17]</span></a> Extremely like the description of what was to be seen on -Ruwenzori, according to the Wahuma herdsmen.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_18_18" id="Footnote_18_18"></a><a href="#FNanchor_18_18"><span class="label">[18]</span></a> Madagascar.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_19_19" id="Footnote_19_19"></a><a href="#FNanchor_19_19"><span class="label">[19]</span></a> Enoch.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_20_20" id="Footnote_20_20"></a><a href="#FNanchor_20_20"><span class="label">[20]</span></a> I wonder if this renowned Idrisi is the same as the -patriarch Kintu in the legend of the Waganda. See ‘Through the Dark -Continent.'</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_21_21" id="Footnote_21_21"></a><a href="#FNanchor_21_21"><span class="label">[21]</span></a> It is exceedingly like the legend of Kintu, only it -possesses more details.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_22_22" id="Footnote_22_22"></a><a href="#FNanchor_22_22"><span class="label">[22]</span></a> Lake Albert.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_23_23" id="Footnote_23_23"></a><a href="#FNanchor_23_23"><span class="label">[23]</span></a> Mount Ajif(?) if the lake was 50 feet higher—Ajif might -be so described.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_24_24" id="Footnote_24_24"></a><a href="#FNanchor_24_24"><span class="label">[24]</span></a> Lake Albert Edward(?).</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_25_25" id="Footnote_25_25"></a><a href="#FNanchor_25_25"><span class="label">[25]</span></a> Perhaps he means Zing, or Eastern littoral called -Zinghiber, Zanjibar—Zanzibar.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_26_26" id="Footnote_26_26"></a><a href="#FNanchor_26_26"><span class="label">[26]</span></a> Batwa(?), from the pigmies.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_27_27" id="Footnote_27_27"></a><a href="#FNanchor_27_27"><span class="label">[27]</span></a> Lake Albert.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_28_28" id="Footnote_28_28"></a><a href="#FNanchor_28_28"><span class="label">[28]</span></a> Albert Nyanza.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_29_29" id="Footnote_29_29"></a><a href="#FNanchor_29_29"><span class="label">[29]</span></a> Because of the mist?</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_30_30" id="Footnote_30_30"></a><a href="#FNanchor_30_30"><span class="label">[30]</span></a> Turkan?</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_31_31" id="Footnote_31_31"></a><a href="#FNanchor_31_31"><span class="label">[31]</span></a> From the tribe Wakuri, or Bakuri, on the north shore of -Lake Victoria, where it exists to this day.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_32_32" id="Footnote_32_32"></a><a href="#FNanchor_32_32"><span class="label">[32]</span></a> I sent a bottle full of this brine to the Laboratoire -Khedivial in Cairo to be analysed by the Government chemists, and the -following report was made:— -</p> - -<p class="c"> -<span class="smcap">Laboratoire Khedivial.</span><br /> -</p> - -<p class="r"> -Le Cairo, <i>25th Mars, 1890</i>.<br /> -</p> - -<p>The composition of this water is as follows:—</p> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="" - class="tbl"> -<tr><td>Potash, K<sub>9</sub>O</td><td align="right">2.667</td></tr> -<tr><td>Soda, N<sub>3</sub>O</td><td align="right">13.94</td></tr> -<tr><td>Inhydrous sulphuric acid (combined), 5O<sub>3</sub></td><td align="right">3.17</td></tr> -<tr><td>Inhydrous carbonic acid (combined), 8O<sub>2</sub></td><td align="right">2.36</td></tr> -<tr><td>Chlorine (combined), Cl</td><td align="right">11.33</td></tr> -<tr><td>Sulphuretted hydrogen (combined), SH<sub>2</sub></td><td align="right">.02</td></tr> -<tr><td>Lime and magnesia</td><td align="right">traces</td></tr> -<tr><td>Silica</td><td align="right">.01</td></tr> -<tr><td>Water</td><td align="right">68.77</td></tr> -<tr><td> </td><td align="right" class="bt">102.26</td></tr> -<tr><td>Deduct oxygen equivalent to chlorine</td><td align="right">2.55</td></tr> -<tr><td> </td><td align="right" class="bt">99.71</td></tr> -</table> - -<p> -Calculating the bases to the oxides, the composition is— -</p> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="" - class="tbl"> -<tr><td>Sodium chloride</td><td align="right">18.67</td></tr> -<tr><td>Sodium sulphate</td><td align="right">5.63</td></tr> -<tr><td>Sodium carbonate</td><td align="right">2.72</td></tr> -<tr><td>Potassium carbonate</td><td align="right">3.87</td></tr> -<tr><td>Potassium sulphyrate</td><td align="right">.04</td></tr> -<tr><td>Silica</td><td align="right">.01</td></tr> -<tr><td>Lime and magnesia</td><td align="right">traces</td></tr> -<tr><td>Water</td><td align="right">68.77</td></tr> -<tr><td> </td><td align="right" class="bt">99.71</td></tr> -</table> - -<p> -The difference between the total found and 100 is probably accounted for -by small quantities of organic matter. -</p><p> -The density is 1·2702; using this figure, the results, as expressed in -grains per litre, are:— -</p> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="" - class="tbl"> -<tr><td>Sodium chloride</td><td align="right">237·15</td></tr> -<tr><td>Sodium sulphate</td><td align="right">61·51</td></tr> -<tr><td>Sodium carbonate</td><td align="right">34·55</td></tr> -<tr><td>Potassium carbonate</td><td align="right">49·16</td></tr> -<tr><td>Potassium sulphydrate</td><td align="right">·51</td></tr> -<tr><td>Silica</td><td align="right">·12</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">Total salts per litre</td><td align="right" - class="bt">383·00</td><td align="left">grains.</td></tr> -</table> - -<p> -When received the sample had an odour of sulphuretted hydrogen, due to -the sulphides present, and a slight pink colour, caused by matter in -suspension. The quantity of the sample was too small to admit of an -examination of this or of the organic matter in the water. -</p><p> -This water, consisting as it does of a nearly saturated solution, is a -very remarkable one, and a natural water of this composition is very -rarely met with. The presence of sulphides is due to the action of -reducing organisms on the sulphates. The bottle in which the sample was -was quite full, and securely corked for several months. -</p> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="" - class="tbl" style="margin-left:60%;"> -<tr valign="middle"> -<td align="left"><span class="smcap">A. Pappe.</span><br /> -<span class="smcap">H. Droop Richmond.</span></td> -<td class="bl">—<i>Les Chémistes.</i></td></tr> -</table> - -<p class="r"> -“Snow Hill Buildings, London, E.C.<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 3em;">“1st May, 1890.</span><br /> -</p> - -<p class="nind"> -“<span class="smcap">Dear Mr. Stanley</span>,—<br /> -</p> - -<p> -“The following is the result of the quantitative analysis of the natural -crystalline salt you submitted to me:— -</p> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="" - class="tbl"> -<tr><td> </td><td align="right">Per cent.</td></tr> -<tr><td>Water</td><td align="right">·82</td></tr> -<tr><td>Oxide of iron (Fe<sub>2</sub>O<sub>3</sub>)</td><td align="right">·15</td></tr> -<tr><td>Potash (K<sub>2</sub>O)</td><td align="right">4·56</td></tr> -<tr><td>Soda (Na<sub>2</sub>O)</td><td align="right">47·68</td></tr> -<tr><td>Carbonic acid (CO<sub>2</sub>)</td><td align="right">1·02</td></tr> -<tr><td>Sulphurous acid (SO<sub>3</sub>)</td><td align="right">6·87</td></tr> -<tr><td>Chlorine</td><td align="right">50·42</td></tr> -<tr><td> </td><td align="right" class="bt">111·52</td></tr> -<tr><td>Less oxygen equivalent to chlorine</td><td align="right">11·36</td></tr> -<tr><td> </td><td align="right" class="bt">100·16</td></tr> -</table> - -<p> -“It is quite impossible to say with certainty how the bases and acids -are combined, but, calculated in the order of their mutual affinities, -the following is the arrangement into which they would naturally fall:— -</p> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="" - class="tbl"> -<tr><td> </td><td align="right">Per cent.</td></tr> -<tr><td>Potassium sulphate</td><td align="right">8·43</td></tr> -<tr><td>Sodium sulphate</td><td align="right">5·32</td></tr> -<tr><td>Sodium carbonate</td><td align="right">2·46</td></tr> -<tr><td>Sodium chloride</td><td align="right">82·71</td></tr> -<tr><td>Oxide of iron</td><td align="right">·15</td></tr> -<tr><td>Water</td><td align="right">·82</td></tr> -<tr><td> </td><td align="right" class="bt">99·89</td></tr> -</table> - -<p class="r"> -“Trusting this may be of service to you,<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 16em;">“I remain yours ever truly,</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 22.5em;">“<span class="smcap">Henry S. Wellcome.</span>”</span><br /> -</p><p><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">“To H. M. Stanley, Esq.”</span><br /> -</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_33_33" id="Footnote_33_33"></a><a href="#FNanchor_33_33"><span class="label">[33]</span></a> By a letter dated November 21st, 1889, written from -Bukumbi, south end of Lake Victoria, I learn from Mr. C. Stokes that he -reached Mwanga’s island safely. On his arrival he found that, though in -a tolerably favourable position, food was scarce, and sickness was -troubling the camp. He resolved to make a bold advance to the capital, -and for this purpose requested the chief of the Christians in Uddu to -advance by land. On reaching within one day’s march of the capital the -Christians were attacked and in great danger, but Mr. Stokes, Mwanga, -and his faithful followers hurried to their aid, and Karema and the -Mohammedan party were defeated. On the 4th of October another battle -took place close to the capital Rubaga, whereat Karema and his Arab -confederates were completely routed, and on the 5th, Mwanga and his -white friend entered the capital. Karema and his Arab auxiliaries -attempted to take refuge in Unyoro, but Kabba Rega, the King of Unyoro, -refused to admit him unless he parted from his Arab friends. He was -therefore compelled to seize a position near the northern frontier of -Uganda, where he remained at last accounts with 500 guns. So ends this -romantic history for the time. Mwanga is again on his throne, and the -English and French missionaries are again established in Uganda.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_34_34" id="Footnote_34_34"></a><a href="#FNanchor_34_34"><span class="label">[34]</span></a> It therefore appears necessary, when speaking of the -coloured races of Inner Africa, to bear in mind that they are now -developed into five distinct types, which may be called Pigmy, Negro, -Semi-Ethiopic, Ethiopic, and Berberine or Mauresque, and that among -these types there are found a number modified by amalgamation of one -with another, such as Pigmy with Negro—producing tribes whose adult -males have an average height of 5 feet 2 inches; Negro with Omani Arabs, -as on the Eastern sea-board; Ethiopic with Arab, as along the littoral -in the neighbourhood of the Jub; Berberine with Negro, as in Darfour, -Kordofan, the herdsmen of the Upper Nile, and east of Sierra Leone. -</p><p> -I regret that time does not permit me to illustrate what has been stated -above by a map, by which every reader would understand at a glance what -has been effected during fifty centuries by long successive waves of -migration from Asia into Africa.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_35_35" id="Footnote_35_35"></a><a href="#FNanchor_35_35"><span class="label">[35]</span></a> While the French priest Père Girault has publicly and -privately acknowledged the kindness he received, Père Schintze has, I -regret to say, assumed quite a hostile tone. We received them with open -arms, we supplied them and their people with meat rations daily to the -coast. We paid their tribute to the Wagogo. They were invited to every -banquet of which we partook at Bagamoyo and Zanzibar, and the British -Consul-General, Col. Euan Smith, honoured them with the kindliest -hospitalities. Meanwhile Père Schintze, by his own account, was taking -advantage of the few querulous remarks of the Pasha, uttered during -moments of suffering from fatigue, to form a breach between the Pasha -and ourselves, by communicating to him certain criticisms reported to be -made by our officers on the character of the refugees, which Emin’s -extremely susceptible nature took umbrage at. The impressions I received -from this person have thus been fully verified.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_36_36" id="Footnote_36_36"></a><a href="#FNanchor_36_36"><span class="label">[36]</span></a> The Pasha arrived at Zanzibar about the beginning of -March, 1890, perfectly recovered.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_37_37" id="Footnote_37_37"></a><a href="#FNanchor_37_37"><span class="label">[37]</span></a> Difficult to distinguish from borro, which translated is -man</p></div> - -</div> - -<hr class="full" /> - - - - - - - - -<pre> - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of In Darkest Africa, Vol. 2; or, The -quest, rescue and retreat of Emin, governor of Equatoria, by Henry Morton Stanley - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK IN DARKEST AFRICA, VOL. 2 *** - -***** This file should be named 43655-h.htm or 43655-h.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/4/3/6/5/43655/ - -Produced by Chuck Greif and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by the -Posner Memorial Collection -(http://posner.library.cmu.edu/Posner/)) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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