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diff --git a/43654-0.txt b/43654-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..9621e9e --- /dev/null +++ b/43654-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,18982 @@ +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 43654 *** + +IN DARKEST AFRICA + +OR THE + +QUEST, RESCUE, AND RETREAT OF EMIN +GOVERNOR OF EQUATORIA + + +BY +HENRY M. STANLEY + + +WITH TWO STEEL ENGRAVINGS, AND ONE HUNDRED AND +FIFTY ILLUSTRATIONS AND MAPS + + +IN TWO VOLUMES +Vol. I + +"I will not cease to go forward until I come to the place where the two +seas meet, though I travel ninety years."--Koran, chap, xviii., v. 62. + + +NEW YORK +CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS +1890 +[_All rights reserved_] + + + + +Copyright, 1890, by +CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS + +Press of J. J. Little & Co., +Astor Place, New York. + + + + + CONTENTS OF VOLUME I. + + ------ + + Page + +Prefatory Letter to Sir William Mackinnon, Chairman of the Emin Pasha +relief expedition + 1 + +CHAPTER I. +INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER. + +The Khedive and the Soudan--Arabi Pasha--Hicks Pasha's defeat--The Mahdi +--Sir Evelyn Baring and Lord Granville on the Soudan--Valentine Baker +Pasha--General Gordon: his work in the Upper Soudan--Edward Schnitzler +(or Emin Effendi Hakim) and his Province--General Gordon at Khartoum: +and account of the Relief Expedition in 1884 under Lord Wolseley--Mr. A. +M. Mackay, the missionary in Uganda--Letters from Emin Bey to Mr. +Mackay, Mr. C. H. Allen, and Dr. R. W. Felkin, relating to his +Province--Mr. F. Holmwood's and Mr. A. M. Mackay's views on the proposed +relief of Emin--Suggested routes for the Emin Relief Expedition--Sir Wm. +Mackinnon and Mr. J. F. Hutton--The Relief Fund and preparatory details +of the Expedition--Colonel Sir Francis De Winton--Selection of officers +for the Expedition--King Leopold and the Congo Route--Departure for +Egypt + 11 + +CHAPTER II. +EGYPT AND ZANZIBAR. + +Surgeon T. H. Parke--Views of Sir Evelyn Baring, Nubar Pasha, Professor +Schweinfurth and Dr. Junker on the Emin Relief Expedition--Details +relating to Emin Pasha and his Province--General Grenfell and the +ammunition--Breakfast with Khedive Tewfik: message to Emin +Pasha--Departure for Zanzibar--Description of Mombasa town--Visit to the +Sultan of Zanzibar--Letter to Emin Pasha sent by messenger through +Uganda--Arrangements with Tippu-Tib--Emin Pasha's Ivory--Mr. MacKenzie, +Sir John Pender, and Sir James Anderson's assistance to the Relief +Expedition + 49 + +CHAPTER III. +BY SEA TO THE CONGO RIVER. + +The Sultan of Zanzibar--Tippu-Tib and Stanley Falls--On board s.s. +_Madura_--"Shindy" between the Zanzibaris and Soudanese--Sketches of my +various Officers--Tippu-Tib and Cape Town--Arrival at the mouth of the +Congo River--Start up the Congo--Visit from two of the Executive +Committee of the Congo State--Unpleasant thoughts + 67 + +CHAPTER IV. +TO STANLEY POOL. + +Details of the journey to Stanley Pool--The Soudanese and the +Somalis--Meeting with Mr. Herbert Ward--Camp at Congo la Lemba--Kindly +entertained by Mr. and Mrs. Richards--Letters from up river--Letters to +the Rev. Mr. Bentley and others for assistance--Arrival at +Mwembi--Necessity of enforcing discipline--March to Vombo--Incident at +Lukungu Station--The Zanzibaris--Incident between Jephson and Salim at +the Inkissi River--A series of complaints--The Rev. Mr. Bentley and the +steamer _Peace_--We reach Makoko's village--Leopoldville--Difficulties +regarding the use of the Mission steamers--Monsieur Liebrichts sees Mr. +Billington--Visit to Mr. Swinburne at Kinshassa--Orders to, and duties +of, the officers + 79 + +CHAPTER V. +FROM STANLEY POOL TO YAMBUYA. + +Upper Congo scenery--Accident to the _Peace_--Steamers reach +Kimpoko--Collecting fuel--The good-for-nothing _Peace_--The _Stanley_ in +trouble--Arrival at Bolobo--The Relief Expedition arranged in two +columns--Major Barttelot and Mr. Jameson chosen for command of Rear +Column--Arrival at Equator and Bangala Stations--The Basoko villages: +Baruti deserts us--Arrival at Yambuya + 99 + +CHAPTER VI. +AT YAMBUYA. + +We land at Yambuya villages--The _Stanley_ leaves for Equator +Station--Fears regarding Major Barttelot and the _Henry Reed_--Safe +arrival--Instructions to Major Barttelot and Mr. Jameson respecting the +Rear Column--Major Barttelot's doubts as to Tippu-Tib's good faith--A +long conversation with Major Barttelot--Memorandum for the officers of +the Advance Column--Illness of Lieutenant Stairs--Last night at Yambuya: +statements as to our forces and accoutrements + 111 + +CHAPTER VII. +TO PANGA FALLS. + +An African road--Our mode of travelling through the forests--Farewell to +Jameson and the Major--160 days in the forest--The Rapids of +Yambuya--Attacked by natives of Yankonde--Rest at the village of +Bahunga--Description of our march--The poisoned Skewers--Capture of six +Babali--Dr. Parke and the bees--A tempest in the forest--Mr. Jephson +puts the steel boat together--The village of Bukanda--Refuse heaps of +the villages--The Aruwimi river scenery--Villages of the Bakuti and the +Bakoka--The Rapids of Gwengweré--The boy Bakula-Our "chop and +coffee"--The islands near Bandangi--The Baburu dwarfs--The unknown +course of the river--The Somalis--Bartering at Mariri and Mupé--The +Aruwimi at Mupé--The Babé manners, customs, and dress--Jephson's two +adventures--Wasp Rapids--The chief of the Bwamburi--Our camp at +My-yui--Canoe accident--An abandoned village--Arrival at Panga +Falls--Description of the Falls + 134 + +CHAPTER VIII. +FROM TANGA FALLS TO UGARROWWA'S. + +Another accident at the Rapids--The village of Utiri--Avisibba +settlement--Enquiry into a murder case at Avisibba--Surprised by the +natives--Lieutenant Stairs wounded--We hunt up the enemy--The poisoned +arrows--Indifference of the Zanzibaris--Jephson's caravan missing--Our +wounded--Perpetual rain--Deaths of Khalfan, Saadi, and others--Arrival +of caravan--The Mabengu Rapids--Mustering the people--The Nepoko +river--Remarks by Binza--Our food supply--Reckless use of +ammunition--Half-way to the Albert Lake--We fall in with some of +Ugarrowwa's men--Absconders--We camp at Hippo Broads and Avakubi +Rapids--The destroyed settlement of Navabi--Elephants at Memberri--More +desertions--The Arab leader, Ugarrowwa--He gives us information--Visit +to the Arab settlement--First specimen of the tribe of +dwarfs--Arrangements with Ugarrowwa + 171 + +CHAPTER IX. +UGARROWWA'S TO KILONGA-LONGA'S. + +Ugarrowwa sends us three Zanzibari deserters--We make an example--The +'Express' rifles--Conversation with Rashid--The Lenda river--Troublesome +rapids--Scarcity of food--Some of Kilonga-Longa's followers--Meeting of +the rivers Ihuru and Ituri--State and numbers of the Expedition--Illness +of Captain Nelson--We send couriers ahead to Kilonga-Longa's--The sick +encampment--Randy and the guinea fowl--Scarcity of food--Illness caused +by the forest pears--Fanciful menus--More desertions--Asmani +drowned--Our condition in brief--Uledi's suggestion--Umari's climb--My +donkey is shot for food--We strike the track of the Manyuema and arrive +at their village + 211 + +CHAPTER X. +WITH THE MANYUEMA AT IPOTO. + +The ivory hunters at Ipoto--Their mode of proceeding--The Manyuema +headmen and their raids--Remedy for preventing wholesale +devastations--Crusade preached by Cardinal Lavigerie--Our Zanzibar +chiefs--Anxiety respecting Captain Nelson and his followers--Our men +sell their weapons for food--Theft of rifles--Their return +demanded--Uledi turns up with news of the missing chiefs--Contract drawn +up with the Manyuema headmen for the relief of Captain Nelson--Jephson's +report on his journey--Reports of Captain Nelson and Surgeon Parke--The +process of blood brotherhood between myself and Ismaili--We leave Ipoto + 236 + +CHAPTER XI. +THROUGH THE FOREST TO MAZAMBONI'S PEAK. + +In the country of the Balessé--Their houses and clearings--Natives of +Bukiri--The first village of dwarfs--Our rate of progress increased--The +road from Mambungu's--Halts at East and West Indékaru--A little storm +between "Three o'clock" and Khamis--We reach Ibwiri--Khamis and the +"vile Zanzibaris"--The Ibwiri clearing--Plentiful provisions--The state +of my men; and what they had recently gone through--Khamis and party +explore the neighbourhood--And return with a flock of goats--Khamis +captures Boryo, but is released--Jephson returns from the relief of +Captain Nelson--Departure of Khamis and the Manyuema--Memorandum of +charges against Messrs. Kilonga-Longa & Co. of Ipoto--Suicide of +Simba--Sali's reflections on the same--Lieutenant Stairs +reconnoitres--Muster and reorganisation at Ibwiri--Improved condition of +the men--Boryo's village--Balessé customs--East Indenduru--We reach the +outskirts of the forest--Mount Pisgah--The village of Iyugu--Heaven's +light at last; the beautiful grass-land--We drop across an ancient +crone--Indésura and its products--Juma's capture--The Ituri river +again--We emerge upon a rolling plain--And forage in some villages--The +mode of hut construction--The district of the Babusessé--Our Mbiri +captives--Natives attack the camp--The course of the Ituri--The natives +of Abunguma--Our fare since leaving Ibwiri--Mazamboni's Peak--The east +Ituri--A mass of plantations--Demonstration by the natives--Our camp on +the crest of Nzera Kum--"Be strong and of a good courage"--Friendly +intercourse with the natives--We are compelled to disperse them--Peace +arranged--Arms of the Bandussuma + 255 + +CHAPTER XII. +ARRIVAL AT LAKE ALBERT AND OUR RETURN TO IBWIRI. + +We are further annoyed by the natives--Their villages fired--Gavira's +village--We keep the natives at bay--Plateau of Unyoro in view--Night +attack by the natives--The village of Katonza's--Parley with the +natives--No news of the Pasha--Our supply of cartridges--We consider our +position--Lieutenant Stairs converses with the people of Kasenya +Island--The only sensible course left us--Again attacked by +natives--Scenery on the lake's shore--We climb a mountain--A rich +discovery of grain--The rich valley of Undussuma--Our return journey to +Ibwiri--The construction of Fort Bodo + 319 + +CHAPTER XIII. +LIFE AT FORT BODO. + +Our impending duties--The stockade of Fort Bodo--Instructions to +Lieutenant Stairs--His departure for Kilonga-Longa's--Pested by rats, +mosquitoes, &c.--Nights disturbed by the lemur--Armies of red +ants--Snakes in tropical Africa--Hoisting the Egyptian flag--Arrival of +Surgeon Parke and Captain Nelson from Ipoto--Report of their stay with +the Manyuema--Lieutenant Stairs arrives with the steel boat--We +determine to push on to the Lake at once--Volunteers to convey letters +to Major Barttelot--Illness of myself and Captain Nelson--Uledi captures +a Queen of the Pigmies--Our fields of corn--Life at Fort Bodo--We again +set out for the Nyanza + 350 + +CHAPTER XIV. +TO THE ALBERT NYANZA A SECOND TIME. + +Difficulties with the steel boat--African forest craft--Splendid capture +of pigmies, and description of the same--We cross the Ituri River--Dr. +Parke's delight on leaving the forest--Camp at Bessé--Zanzibari wit--At +Nzera-Kum Hill once more--Intercourse with the natives--"Malleju," or +the "Bearded One," being first news of Emin--Visit from chief Mazamboni +and his followers--Jephson goes through the form of friendship with +Mazamboni--The medicine men, Nestor and Murabo--The tribes of the +Congo--Visit from chief Gavira--A Mhuma chief--The Bavira and Wahuma +races--The varying African features--Friendship with Mpinga--Gavira and +the looking-glass--Exposed Uzanza--We reach Kavalli--The chief produces +"Malleju's" letter--Emin's letter--Jephson and Parke convey the steel +boat to the lake--Copy of letter sent by me to Emin through +Jephson--Friendly visits from natives + 373 + +CHAPTER XV. +THE MEETING WITH EMIN PASHA. + +Our camp at Bundi--Mbiassi, the chief of Kavalli--The Balegga +granaries--Chiefs Katonza and Komubi express contrition--The kites at +Badzwa--A note from Jephson--Emin, Casati and Jephson walk into our camp +at old Kavalli--Descriptions of Emin Pasha and Captain Casati--The +Pasha's Soudanese--Our Zanzibaris--The steamer _Khedive_--Baker and the +Blue Mountains--Drs. Junker and Felkin's descriptions of Emin--Proximity +of Kabba Rega--Emin and the Equatorial Provinces--Dr. Junker's report of +Emin--I discuss with Emin our future proceedings--Captain Casati's +plans--Our camp and provisions at Nsabé--Kabba Rega's treatment of +Captain Casati and Mohammed Biri--Mabruki gored by a buffalo--Emin Pasha +and his soldiers--My propositions to Emin and his answer--Emin's +position--Mahomet Achmet--The Congo State--The Foreign Office despatches + 393 + +CHAPTER XVI. +WITH THE PASHA--_continued_. + +Fortified stations in the Province--Storms at Nsabé--A nest of young +crocodiles--Lake Ibrahim--Zanzibari raid on Balegga villages--Dr. Parke +goes in search of the two missing men--The Zanzibaris again--A real +tornado--The Pasha's gifts to us--Introduced to Emin's officers--Emin's +cattle forays--The _Khedive_ departs for Mswa station--Mabruki and his +wages--The Pasha and the use of the sextant--Departure of local +chiefs--Arrival of the _Khedive_ and _Nyanza_ steamers with +soldiers--Made arrangements to return in search of the rear-column--My +message to the troops--Our Badzwa road--A farewell dance by the +Zanzibaris--The Madi carriers' disappearance--First sight of +Ruwenzori--Former circumnavigators of the Albert Lake--Lofty twin-peak +mountain near the East Ituri River--Aid for Emin against Kabba Rega--Two +letters from Emin Pasha--We are informed of an intended attack on us by +chiefs Kadongo and Musiri--Fresh Madi carriers--We attack Kadongo's +camp--With assistance from Mazamboni and Gavira we march on Musiri's +camp which turns out to be deserted--A phalanx dance by Mazamboni's +warriors--Music on the African Continent--Camp at Nzera-kum +Hill--Presents from various chiefs--Chief Musiri wishes for peace + 418 + +CHAPTER XVII. +PERSONAL TO THE PASHA. + +Age and early days of Emin Pasha--Gordon and the pay of Emin Pasha--Last +interview with Gordon Pasha in 1877--Emin's last supply of ammunition +and provisions--Five years' isolation--Mackay's library in +Uganda--Emin's abilities and fitness for his position--His linguistic +and other attainments--Emin's industry--His neat journals--Story related +to me by Shukri Agha referring to Emin's escape from Kirri to Mswa--Emin +confirms the story--Some natural history facts related to me by +Emin--The Pasha and the Dinka tribe--A lion story--Emin and "bird +studies" + 422 + +CHAPTER XVIII. +START FOR THE RELIEF OF THE REAR COLUMN. + +Escorted by various tribes to Mukangi--Camp at Ukuba village--Arrival at +Fort Bodo--Our invalids in Ugarrowwa's care--Lieut. Stairs' report on +his visit to bring up the invalids to Fort Bodo--Night visits by the +malicious dwarfs--A general muster of the garrison--I decide to conduct +the Relief force in person--Captain Nelson's ill-health--My little +fox-terrier "Randy"--Description of the fort--The Zanzibaris--Estimated +time to perform the journey to Yambuya and back--Lieut. Stairs' +suggestion about the steamer _Stanley_--Conversation with Lieut. Stairs +in reference to Major Barttelot and the Rear Column--Letter of +instructions to Lieut. Stairs + 452 + +CHAPTER XIX. +ARRIVAL AT BANALYA: BARTTELOT DEAD! + +The Relief Force--The difficulties of marching--We reach Ipoto--Kilonga +Longa apologises for the behaviour of his Manyuema--The chief returns us +some of our rifles--Dr. Parke and fourteen men return to Fort +Bodo--Ferrying across the Ituri River--Indications of some of our old +camps--We unearth our buried stores--The Manyuema escort--Bridging the +Lenda River--The famished Madi--Accidents and deaths among the +Zanzibaris and Madi--My little fox-terrier "Randy"--The vast clearing of +Ujangwa--Native women guides--We reach Ugarrowwa's abandoned +station--Welcome food at Amiri Falls--Navabi Falls--Halt at Avamburi +landing-place--Death of a Madi chief--Our buried stores near Basopo +unearthed and stolen--Juma and Nassib wander away from the Column--The +evils of forest marching--Conversation between my tent-boy, Sali, and a +Zanzibari--Numerous bats at Mabengu village--We reach Avisibba, and find +a young Zanzibari girl--Nejambi Rapids and Panga Falls--The natives of +Panga--At Mugwye's we disturb an intended feast--We overtake Ugarrowwa +at Wasp Rapids and find our couriers and some deserters in his camp--The +head courier relates his tragic story--Amusing letter from Dr. Parke to +Major Barttelot--Progress of our canoe flotilla down the river--The +Batundu natives--Our progress since leaving the Nyanza--Thoughts about +the Rear Column--Desolation along the banks of the river--We reach +Banalya--Meeting with Bonny--The Major is dead--Banalya Camp + 468 + +CHAPTER XX. +THE SAD STORY OF THE REAR COLUMN. + +Tippu-Tib--Major E. M. Barttelot--Mr. J. S. Jameson--Mr. Herbert +Ward--Messrs. Troup and Bonny--Major Barttelot's Report on the doings of +the Rear Column--Conversation with Mr. Bonny--Major Barttelot's letter +to Mr. Bonny--Facts gleaned from the written narrative of Mr. Wm. +Bonny--Mr. Ward detained at Bangala--Repeated visits of the Major to +Stanley Falls--Murder of Major Barttelot--Bonny's account of the +murder--The assassin Sanga is punished--Jameson dies of fever at Bangala +Station--Meeting of the advance and rear columns--Dreadful state of the +camp--Tippu-Tib and Major Barttelot--Mr. Jameson--Mr. Herbert Ward's +report + 498 + + ----------------------- + +APPENDIX. + +Copy of Log of Rear Column + 527 + + + + + LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. + + VOLUME I. + + + _STEEL ENGRAVING._ + + PORTRAIT OF HENRY M. STANLEY _Frontispiece_ + (From a Photograph by Elliot & Fry, 1886.) + + + _FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS_ + Facing + page + + GROUP--MR. STANLEY AND HIS OFFICERS. 1 + + THE STEEL BOAT "ADVANCE" 80 + + IN THE NIGHT AND RAIN IN THE FOREST 146 + + THE FIGHT WITH THE AVISIBBA CANNIBALS 174 + + THE RIVER COLUMN ASCENDING THE ARUWIMI RIVER WITH THE + "ADVANCE" AND SIXTEEN CANOES. 184 + + WOODEN ARROWS OF THE AVISIBBA 180 + + "THE PASHA IS COMING" 196 + + THE RELIEF OF NELSON AND SURVIVORS AT STARVATION CAMP 250 + + GYMNASTICS IN A FOREST CLEARING 258 + + IYUGU; A CALL TO ARMS 286 + + EMERGING FROM THE FOREST 292 + + FIRST EXPERIENCES WITH MAZAMBONI'S PEOPLE. VIEW FROM NZERA + KUM HILL 306 + + THE SOUTH END OF THE ALBERT NYANZA, DEC. 13, 1887 324 + + SKETCH-MAP: "RETURN TO UGARROWA'S." BY LIEUTENANT STAIRS 365 + + EMIN AND CASATI ARRIVE AT LAKE SHORE CAMP 396 + + A PHALANX DANCE BY MAZAMBONI'S WARRIORS 438 + + MEETING WITH THE REAR COLUMN AT BANALYA 494 + + + _OTHER ILLUSTRATIONS_ + + PORTRAIT OF EMIN PASHA 18 + + " CAPTAIN NELSON 39 + + " LIEUTENANT STAIRS 40 + + " WILLIAM BONNY 41 + + " A. J. MOUNTENEY JEPHSON 42 + + " SURGEON PARKE, A. M. D. 50 + + " NUBAR PASHA 51 + + " THE KHEDIVE TEWFIK 55 + + " TIPPU-TIB 68 + + MAXIM AUTOMATIC GUN 83 + + LAUNCHING THE STEAMER "FLORIDA" 96 + + STANLEY POOL 100 + + BARUTI FINDS HIS BROTHER 109 + + A TYPICAL VILLAGE ON THE LOWER ARUWIMI 112 + + LANDING AT YAMBUYA 113 + + DIAGRAM OF FOREST CAMPS 130 + + MARCHING THROUGH THE FOREST 135 + + THE KIRANGOZI, OR FOREMOST MAN 137 + + HEAD-DRESS--CROWN OF BRISTLES 160 + + WASPS' NESTS 164 + + FORT ISLAND, NEAR PANGA FALLS 168 + + PANGA FALLS 169 + + VIEW OF UTIRI VILLAGE 172 + + LEAF-BLADED PADDLE OF AVISIBBA 174 + + A HEAD-DRESS OF AVISIBBA WARRIORS 178 + + CORONETED AVISIBBA WARRIOR--HEAD-DRESS 179 + + CASCADES OF THE NEPOKO 193 + + VIEW OF BAFAIDO CATARACT 202 + + ATTACKING AN ELEPHANT IN THE ITURI RIVER 203 + + RANDY SEIZES THE GUINEA FOWL 224 + + KILONGA LONGA'S STATION 234 + + SHIELDS OF THE BALESSÉ 256 + + VIEW OF MOUNT PISGAH FROM THE EASTWARD 281 + + VILLAGES OF THE BAKWURU ON A SPUR OF PISGAH 283 + + A VILLAGE AT THE BASE OF PISGAH 284 + + CHIEF OF THE IYUGU 285 + + PIPES OF FOREST TRIBES 290 + + SHIELDS OF BABUSESSÉ 299 + + SUSPENSION BRIDGE ACROSS THE EAST ITURI 304 + + SHIELD OF THE EDGE OF THE PLAINS 317 + + VIEW OF THE SOUTH END OF ALBERT NYANZA 318 + + CORN GRANARY OF THE BABUSESSÉ 328 + + A VILLAGE OF THE BAVIRI: EUROPEANS TAILORING 345 + + GREAT ROCK NEAR INDÉTONGA 348 + + EXTERIOR VIEW OF FORT BODO 349 + + INTERIOR VIEW OF FORT BODO 351 + + PLAN OF FORT BODO AND VICINITY, BY LIEUTENANT STAIRS 354 + + THE QUEEN OF THE DWARFS 368 + + WITHIN FORT BODO 371 + + ONE OF MAZAMBONI'S WARRIORS 384 + + KAVALLI, CHIEF OF THE BABIASSI 389 + + MILK VESSEL OF THE WAHUMA 392 + + THE STEAMERS "KHEDIVE" AND "NYANZA" ON LAKE ALBERT 426 + + VIEW OF BANALYA CURVE 493 + + PORTRAIT OF MAJOR BARTTELOT 499 + + " MR. JAMESON 501 + + + _MAP_ + + A MAP OF THE GREAT FOREST REGION, SHOWING THE ROUTE OF THE + EMIN PASHA RELIEF EXPEDITION FROM THE RIVER CONGO TO + VICTORIA NYANZA. BY HENRY M. STANLEY. + _In Pocket._ + + + + +[Illustration: GROUP OF MR. STANLEY AND OFFICERS.] + + + + + IN DARKEST AFRICA. + + + + +PREFATORY LETTER + + +My Dear Sir William, + +I have great pleasure in dedicating this book to you. It professes to be +the Official Report to yourself and the Emin Relief Committee of what we +have experienced and endured during our mission of Relief, which +circumstances altered into that of Rescue. You may accept it as a +truthful record of the journeyings of the Expedition which you and the +Emin Relief Committee entrusted to my guidance. + +I regret that I was not able to accomplish all that I burned to do when I +set out from England in January, 1887, but the total collapse of the +Government of Equatoria thrust upon us the duty of conveying in hammocks +so many aged and sick people, and protecting so many helpless and feeble +folk, that we became transformed from a small fighting column of tried +men into a mere Hospital Corps to whom active adventure was denied. The +Governor was half blind and possessed much luggage, Casati was weakly and +had to be carried, and 90 per cent. of their followers were, soon after +starting, scarcely able to travel from age, disease, weakness or infancy. +Without sacrificing our sacred charge, to assist which was the object of +the Expedition, we could neither deviate to the right or to the left, +from the most direct road to the sea. + +You who throughout your long and varied life have steadfastly believed in +the Christian's God, and before men have professed your devout +thankfulness for many mercies vouchsafed to you, will better understand +than many others the feelings which animate me when I find myself back +again in civilization, uninjured in life or health, after passing through +so many stormy and distressful periods. Constrained at the darkest hour +to humbly confess that without God's help I was helpless, I vowed a vow +in the forest solitudes that I would confess His aid before men. A +silence as of death was round about me; it was midnight; I was weakened +by illness, prostrated with fatigue and worn with anxiety for my white +and black companions, whose fate was a mystery. In this physical and +mental distress I besought God to give me back my people. Nine hours +later we were exulting with a rapturous joy. In full view of all was the +crimson flag with the crescent, and beneath its waving folds was the +long-lost rear column. + +Again, we had emerged into the open country out of the forest, after such +experiences as in the collective annals of African travels there is no +parallel. We were approaching the region wherein our ideal Governor was +reported to be beleaguered. All that we heard from such natives as our +scouts caught prepared us for desperate encounters with multitudes, of +whose numbers or qualities none could inform us intelligently, and when +the population of Undusuma swarmed in myriads on the hills, and the +valleys seemed alive with warriors, it really seemed to us in our dense +ignorance of their character and power, that these were of those who +hemmed in the Pasha to the west. If he with his 4000 soldiers appealed +for help, what could we effect with 173? The night before I had been +reading the exhortation of Moses to Joshua, and whether it was the effect +of those brave words, or whether it was a voice, I know not, but it +appeared to me as though I heard: "Be strong, and of a good courage, fear +not, nor be afraid of them, for the Lord thy God He it is that doth go +with thee, He will not fail thee nor forsake thee." When on the next day +Mazamboni commanded his people to attack and exterminate us, there was +not a coward in our camp, whereas the evening before we exclaimed in +bitterness on seeing four of our men fly before one native, "And these +are the wretches with whom we must reach the Pasha!" + +And yet again. Between the confluence of the Ihuru and the Dui rivers in +December 1888, 150 of the best and strongest of our men had been +despatched to forage for food. They had been absent for many days more +than they ought to have been, and in the meantime 130 men besides boys +and women were starving. They were supported each day with a cup of warm +thin broth, made of butter, milk and water, to keep death away as long as +possible. When the provisions were so reduced that there were only +sufficient for thirteen men for ten days, even of the thin broth with +four tiny biscuits each per day, it became necessary for me to hunt up +the missing men. They might, being without a leader, have been reckless, +and been besieged by an overwhelming force of vicious dwarfs. My +following consisted of sixty-six men, a few women and children, who, more +active than the others, had assisted the thin fluid with the berries of +the phrynium and the amomum, and such fungi as could be discovered in +damp places, and therefore were possessed of some little strength, though +the poor fellows were terribly emaciated. Fifty-one men, besides boys and +women, were so prostrate with debility and disease that they would be +hopelessly gone if within a few hours food did not arrive. My white +comrade and thirteen men were assured of sufficient for ten days to +protract the struggle against a painful death. We who were bound for the +search possessed nothing. We could feed on berries until we could arrive +at a plantation. As we travelled that afternoon we passed several dead +bodies in various stages of decay, and the sight of doomed, dying and +dead produced on my nerves such a feeling of weakness that I was +well-nigh overcome. Every soul in that camp was paralysed with sadness +and suffering. Despair had made them all dumb. Not a sound was heard to +disturb the deathly brooding. It was a mercy to me that I heard no murmur +of reproach, no sign of rebuke. I felt the horror of silence of the +forest and the night intensely. Sleep was impossible. My thoughts dwelt +on these recurring disobediences which caused so much misery and anxiety. +"Stiff-necked, rebellious, incorrigible human nature, ever showing its +animalism and brutishness, let the wretches be for ever accursed! Their +utter thoughtless and oblivious natures and continual breach of promises +kill more men, and cause more anxiety, than the poison of the darts or +barbs and points of the arrows. If I meet them I will--" But before the +resolve was uttered flashed to my memory the dead men on the road, the +doomed in the camp, and the starving with me, and the thought that those +150 men were lost in the remorseless woods beyond recovery, or surrounded +by savages without hope of escape, then do you wonder that the natural +hardness of the heart was softened, and that I again consigned my case to +Him who could alone assist us. The next morning within half-an-hour of +the start we met the foragers, safe, sound, robust, loaded, bearing four +tons of plantains. You can imagine what cries of joy these wild children +of nature uttered, you can imagine how they flung themselves upon the +fruit, and kindled the fires to roast and boil and bake, and how, after +they were all filled, we rode back to the camp to rejoice those +unfortunates with Mr. Bonny. + +As I mentally review the many grim episodes and reflect on the +marvellously narrow escapes from utter destruction to which we have been +subjected during our various journeys to and fro through that immense and +gloomy extent of primeval woods, I feel utterly unable to attribute our +salvation to any other cause than to a gracious Providence who for some +purpose of His own preserved us. All the armies and armaments of Europe +could not have lent us any aid in the dire extremity in which we found +ourselves in that camp between the Dui and Ihuru; an army of explorers +could not have traced our course to the scene of the last struggle had we +fallen, for deep, deep as utter oblivion had we been surely buried under +the humus of the trackless wilds. + +It is in this humble and grateful spirit that I commence this record of +the progress of the Expedition from its inception by you to the date when +at our feet the Indian Ocean burst into view, pure and blue as Heaven +when we might justly exclaim "It is ended!" + +What the public ought to know, that have I written; but there are many +things that the snarling, cynical, unbelieving, vulgar ought not to know. +I write to you and to your friends, and for those who desire more light +on Darkest Africa, and for those who can feel an interest in what +concerns humanity. + +My creed has been, is, and will remain so, I hope, to act for the best, +think the right thought, and speak the right word, as well as a good +motive will permit. When a mission is entrusted to me and my conscience +approves it as noble and right, and I give my promise to exert my best +powers to fulfil this according to the letter and spirit, I carry with me +a Law, that I am compelled to obey. If any associated with me prove to me +by their manner and action that this Law is equally incumbent on them, +then I recognize my brothers. Therefore it is with unqualified delight +that I acknowledge the priceless services of my friends Stairs, Jephson, +Nelson and Parke, four men whose devotion to their several duties were as +perfect as human nature is capable of. As a man's epitaph can only be +justly written when he lies in his sepulchre, so I rarely attempted to +tell them during the journey, how much I valued the ready and prompt +obedience of Stairs, that earnestness for work that distinguished +Jephson, the brave soldierly qualities of Nelson, and the gentle, tender +devotion paid by our Doctor to his ailing patients; but now that the long +wanderings are over, and they have bided and laboured ungrudgingly +throughout the long period, I feel that my words are poor indeed when I +need them to express in full my lasting obligations to each of them. + +Concerning those who have fallen, or who were turned back by illness or +accident, I will admit, with pleasure, that while in my company every one +seemed most capable of fulfilling the highest expectations formed of +them. I never had a doubt of any one of them until Mr. Bonny poured into +my ears the dismal story of the rear column. While I possess positive +proofs that both the Major and Mr. Jameson were inspired by loyalty, and +burning with desire throughout those long months at Yambuya, I have +endeavoured to ascertain why they did not proceed as instructed by +letter, or why Messrs. Ward, Troup and Bonny did not suggest that to move +little by little was preferable to rotting at Yambuya, which they were +clearly in danger of doing, like the 100 dead followers. To this simple +question there is no answer. The eight visits to Stanley Falls and +Kasongo amount in the aggregate to 1,200 miles; their journals, log +books, letters teem with proofs that every element of success was in and +with them. I cannot understand why the five officers, having means for +moving, confessedly burning with the desire to move, and animated with +the highest feelings, did not move on along our tract as directed; or, +why, believing I was alive, the officers sent my personal baggage down +river and reduced their chief to a state of destitution; or, why they +should send European tinned provisions and two dozen bottles of Madeira +down river, when there were thirty-three men sick and hungry in camp; or, +why Mr. Bonny should allow his own rations to be sent down while he was +present; or, why Mr. Ward should be sent down river with a despatch, and +an order be sent after him to prevent his return to the Expedition. These +are a few of the problems which puzzle me, and to which I have been +unable to obtain satisfactory solutions. Had any other person informed me +that such things had taken place I should have doubted them, but I take +my information solely from Major Barttelot's official despatch (See +Appendix). The telegram which Mr. Ward conveyed to the sea requests +instructions from the London Committee, but the gentlemen in London +reply, "We refer you to Mr. Stanley's letter of instructions." It becomes +clear to every one that there mystery here for which I cannot conceive a +rational solution, and therefore each reader of this narrative must think +his own thoughts but construe the whole charitably. + +After the discovery of Mr. Bonny at Banalya, I had frequent occasions to +remark to him that his goodwill and devotion were equal to that shown by +the others, and as for bravery, I think he has as much as the bravest. +With his performance of any appointed work I never had cause for +dissatisfaction, and as he so admirably conducted himself with such +perfect and respectful obedience while with us from Banalya to the Indian +Sea, the more the mystery of Yambuya life is deepened, for with 2,000 +such soldiers as Bonny under a competent leader, the entire Soudan could +be subjugated, pacified and governed. + +It must thoroughly be understood, however, while reflecting upon the +misfortunes of the rear-column, that it is my firm belief that had it +been the lot of Barttelot and Jameson to have been in the place of, say +Stairs and Jephson, and to have accompanied us in the advance, they would +equally have distinguished themselves; for such a group of young +gentlemen as Barttelot, Jameson, Stairs, Nelson, Jephson, and Parke, at +all times, night or day, so eager for and rather loving work, is rare. If +I were to try and form another African State, such tireless, brave +natures would be simply invaluable. The misfortunes of the rear-column +were due to the resolutions of August 17th to stay and wait for me, and +to the meeting with the Arabs the next day. + +What is herein related about Emin Pasha need not, I hope, be taken as +derogating in the slightest from the high conception of our ideal. If the +reality differs somewhat from it no fault can be attributed to him. While +his people were faithful he was equal to the ideal; when his soldiers +revolted his usefulness as a Governor ceased, just as the cabinet-maker +with tools may turn out finished wood-work, but without them can do +nothing. If the Pasha was not of such gigantic stature as we supposed him +to be, he certainly cannot be held responsible for that, any more than he +can be held accountable for his unmilitary appearance. If the Pasha was +able to maintain his province for five years, he cannot in justice be +held answerable for the wave of insanity and the epidemic of turbulence +which converted his hitherto loyal soldiers into rebels. You will find +two special periods in this narrative wherein the Pasha is described with +strictest impartiality to each, but his misfortunes never cause us to +lose our respect for him, though we may not agree with that excess of +sentiment which distinguished him, for objects so unworthy as sworn +rebels. As an administrator he displayed the finest qualities; he was +just, tender, loyal and merciful, and affectionate to the natives who +placed themselves under his protection, and no higher and better proof of +the esteem with which he was regarded by his soldiery can be desired than +that he owed his life to the reputation for justice and mildness which he +had won. In short, every hour saved from sleep was devoted before his +final deposition to some useful purpose conducive to increase of +knowledge, improvement of humanity, and gain to civilization. You must +remember all these things, and by no means lose sight of them, even while +you read our impressions of him. + +I am compelled to believe that Mr. Mounteney Jephson wrote the kindliest +report of the events that transpired during the arrest and imprisonment +of the Pasha and himself, out of pure affection, sympathy, and +fellow-feeling for his friend. Indeed the kindness and sympathy he +entertains for the Pasha are so evident that I playfully accuse him of +being either a Mahdist, Arabist, or Eminist, as one would naturally feel +indignant at the prospect of leading a slave's life at Khartoum. The +letters of Mr. Jephson, after being shown, were endorsed, as will be seen +by Emin Pasha. Later observations proved the truth of those made by Mr. +Jephson when he said, "Sentiment is the Pasha's worst enemy; nothing +keeps Emin here but Emin himself." What I most admire in him is the +evident struggle between his duty to me, as my agent, and the friendship +he entertains for the Pasha. + +While we may naturally regret that Emin Pasha did not possess that +influence over his troops which would have commanded their perfect +obedience, confidence and trust, and made them pliable to the laws and +customs of civilization, and compelled them to respect natives as +fellow-subjects, to be guardians of peace and protectors of property, +without which there can be no civilization, many will think that as the +Governor was unable to do this, that it is as well that events took the +turn they did. The natives of Africa cannot be taught that there are +blessings in civilization if they are permitted to be oppressed and to be +treated as unworthy of the treatment due to human beings, to be despoiled +and enslaved at will by a licentious soldiery. The habit of regarding the +aborigines as nothing better than pagan _abid_ or slaves, dates from +Ibrahim Pasha, and must be utterly suppressed before any semblance of +civilization can be seen outside the military settlements. When every +grain of corn, and every fowl, goat, sheep and cow which is necessary for +the troops is paid for in sterling money or its equivalent in necessary +goods, then civilization will become irresistible in its influence, and +the Gospel even may be introduced; but without impartial justice both are +impossible, certainly never when preceded and accompanied by spoliation, +which I fear was too general a custom in the Soudan. + +Those who have some regard for righteous justice may find some comfort in +the reflection that until civilization in its true and real form be +introduced into Equatoria, the aborigines shall now have some peace and +rest, and that whatever aspects its semblance bare, excepting a few +orange and lime trees, can be replaced within a month, under higher, +better, and more enduring auspices. + +If during this Expedition I have not sufficiently manifested the reality +of my friendship and devotion to you, and to my friends of the Emin +Relief Committee, pray attribute it to want of opportunities and force of +circumstances and not to lukewarmness and insincerity; but if, on the +other hand, you and my friends have been satisfied that so far as lay in +my power I have faithfully and loyally accomplished the missions you +entrusted to me in the same spirit and to the same purpose that you +yourself would have performed them had it been physically and morally +possible for you to have been with us, then indeed am I satisfied, and +the highest praise would not be equal in my opinion to the simple +acknowledgment of it, such as "Well done." + +My dear Sir William, to love a noble, generous and loyal heart like your +own, is natural. Accept the profession of mine, which has been pledged +long ago to you wholly and entirely. + + Henry M. Stanley. + + To Sir William Mackinnon, Bart., + of Balinakill and Loup, + in the County of Argyleshire, +The Chairman of the Emin Pasha Relief Committee. + &c. &c. &c. + + + + +CHAPTER I. + +INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER. + + + The Khedive and the Soudan--Arabi Pasha--Hicks Pasha's defeat--The + Mahdi--Sir Evelyn Baring and Lord Granville on the Soudan--Valentine + Baker Pasha--General Gordon: his work in the Upper Soudan--Edward + Schnitzler (or Emin Effendi Hakim) and his province--General Gordon + at Khartoum: and account of the Belief Expedition in 1884, under Lord + Wolseley--Mr. A. M. Mackay, the missionary in Uganda--Letters from + Emin Bey to Mr. Mackay, Mr. C. H. Allen, and Dr. R. W. Felkin, relating + to his Province--Mr. F. Holmwood's and Mr. A. M. Mackay's views on + the proposed relief of Emin--Suggested routes for the Emin Relief + Expedition--Sir Wm. Mackinnon and Mr. J. F. Hutton--The Relief Fund and + Preparatory details of the Expedition--Colonel Sir Francis De + Winton--Selection of officers for the Expedition--King Leopold and the + Congo Route--Departure for Egypt. + +Only a Carlyle in his maturest period, as when he drew in lurid colours +the agonies of the terrible French Revolution, can do justice to the long +catalogue of disasters which has followed the connection of England with +Egypt. It is a theme so dreadful throughout, that Englishmen shrink from +touching it. Those who have written upon any matters relating to these +horrors confine themselves to bare historical record. No one can read +through these without shuddering at the dangers England and Englishmen +have incurred during this pitiful period of mismanagement. After the +Egyptian campaign there is only one bright gleam of sunshine throughout +months of oppressive darkness, and that shone over the immortals of +Abu-Klea and Gubat, when that small body of heroic Englishmen struggled +shoulder to shoulder on the sands of the fatal desert, and won a glory +equal to that which the Light Brigade were urged to gain at Balaclava. +Those were fights indeed, and atone in a great measure for a series of +blunders, that a century of history would fail to parallel. If only a +portion of that earnestness of purpose exhibited at Abu-Klea had been +manifested by those responsible for ordering events, the Mahdi would soon +have become only a picturesque figure to adorn a page or to point a +metaphor, and not the terrible portent of these latter days, whose +presence blasted every vestige of civilization in the Soudan to ashes. + +In order that I may make a fitting but brief introduction to the subject +matter of this book, I must necessarily glance at the events which led to +the cry of the last surviving Lieutenant of Gordon for help in his close +beleaguerment near the Equator. + +To the daring project of Ismail the Khedive do we owe the original cause +of all that has befallen Egypt and the Soudan. With 5,000,000 of +subjects, and a rapidly depleting treasury, he undertook the expansion of +the Egyptian Khediviate into an enormous Egyptian Empire, the entire area +embracing a superficial extent of nearly 1,000,000 square miles--that is, +from the Pharos of Alexandria to the south end of Lake Albert, from +Massowah to the western boundary of Darfur. Adventurers from Europe and +from America resorted to his capital to suggest the maddest schemes, and +volunteered themselves leaders of the wildest enterprises. The staid +period when Egyptian sovereignty ceased at Gondokoro, and the Nile was +the natural drain of such traffic as found its way by the gentle pressure +of slow development, was ended when Captains Speke and Grant, and Sir +Samuel Baker brought their rapturous reports of magnificent lakes, and +regions unmatched for fertility and productiveness. The termination of +the American Civil War threw numbers of military officers out of +employment, and many thronged to Egypt to lend their genius to the modern +Pharaoh, and to realize his splendid dreams of empire. Englishmen, +Germans, and Italians, appeared also to share in the honours that were +showered upon the bold and the brave. + +While reading carefully and dispassionately the annals of this period, +admiring the breadth of the Khedive's views, the enthusiasm which +possesses him, the princely liberality of his rewards, the military +exploits, the sudden extensions of his power, and the steady expansions +of his sovereignty to the south, west, and east, I am struck by the fact +that his success as a conqueror in Africa may well be compared to the +successes of Alexander in Asia, the only difference being that Alexander +led his armies in person, while Ismail the Khedive preferred the luxuries +of his palaces in Cairo, and to commit his wars to the charge of his +Pashas and Beys. + +To the Khedive the career of conquest on which he has launched appears +noble; the European Press applaud him; so many things of grand importance +to civilization transpire that they chant pæans of praise in his honour; +the two seas are brought together, and the mercantile navies ride in +stately columns along the maritime canal; railways are pushed towards the +south, and it is prophesied that a line will reach as far as Berber. But +throughout all this brilliant period the people of this new empire do not +seem to have been worthy of a thought, except as subjects of taxation and +as instruments of supplying the Treasury; taxes are heavier than ever; +the Pashas are more mercenary; the laws are more exacting, the ivory +trade is monopolised, and finally, to add to the discontent already +growing, the slave trade is prohibited throughout all the territory where +Egyptian authority is constituted. Within five years Sir Samuel Baker has +conquered the Equatorial Province, Munzinger has mastered Senaar, Darfur +has been annexed, and Bahr-el-Ghazal has been subjugated after a most +frightful waste of life. The audacity manifested in all these projects of +empire is perfectly marvellous--almost as wonderful as the total absence +of common sense. Along a line of territory 800 miles in length there are +only three military stations in a country that can only rely upon camels +as means of communication except when the Nile is high. + +In 1879, Ismail the Khedive having drawn too freely upon the banks of +Europe, and increased the debt of Egypt to £128,000,000, and unable to +agree to the restraints imposed by the Powers, the money of whose +subjects he had so liberally squandered, was deposed, and the present +Khedive, Tewfik, his son, was elevated to his place, under the tutelage +of the Powers. But shortly after, a military revolt occurred, and at +Kassassin, Tel-el-Kebir, Cairo, and Kafr Dowar, it was crushed by an +English Army, 13,000 strong, under Lord Wolseley. + +During the brief sovereignty of Arabi Pasha, who headed the military +revolt, much mischief was caused by the withdrawal of the available +troops from the Soudan. While the English General was defeating the rebel +soldiers at Tel-el-Kebir, the Mahdi Mohamet-Achmet was proceeding to the +investment of El Obeid. On the 23rd of August he was attacked at Duem +with a loss of 4500. On the 14th he was repulsed by the garrison of +Obeid, with a loss, it is said, of 10,000 men. These immense losses of +life, which have been continuous from the 11th of August, 1881, when the +Mahdi first essayed the task of teaching the populations of the Soudan +the weakness of Egyptian power, were from the tribes who were indifferent +to the religion professed by the Mahdi, but who had been robbed by the +Egyptian officials, taxed beyond endurance by the Government, and who had +been prevented from obtaining means by the sale of slaves to pay the +taxes, and also from the hundreds of slave-trading caravans, whose +occupation was taken from them by their energetic suppression by Gordon, +and his Lieutenant, Gessi Pasha. From the 11th of August, 1881, to the +4th of March, 1883, when Hicks Pasha, a retired Indian officer, landed at +Khartoum as Chief of the Staff of the Soudan army, the disasters to the +Government troops had been almost one unbroken series; and, in the +meanwhile, the factious and mutinous army of Egypt had revolted, been +suppressed and disbanded, and another army had been reconstituted under +Sir Evelyn Wood, which was not to exceed 6000 men. Yet aware of the +tremendous power of the Mahdi, and the combined fanaticism and hate, +amounting to frenzy, which possessed his legions, and of the +instability, the indiscipline, and cowardice of his troops--while +pleading to the Egyptian Government for a reinforcement of 5000 men, or +for four battalions of General Wood's new army--Hicks Pasha resolves upon +the conquest of Kordofan, and marches to meet the victorious Prophet, +while he and his hordes are flushed with the victory lately gained over +Obeid and Bara. His staff, and the very civilians accompanying him, +predict disaster; yet Hicks starts forth on his last journey with a body +of 12,000 men, 10 mountain guns, 6 Nordenfelts, 5500 camels, and 500 +horses. They know that the elements of weakness are in the force; that +many of the soldiers are peasants taken from the fields in Egypt, chained +in gangs; that others are Mahdists; that there is dissension between the +officers, and that everything is out of joint. But they march towards +Obeid, meet the Mahdi's legions, and are annihilated. + +England at this time directs the affairs of Egypt with the consent of the +young Khedive, whom she has been instrumental in placing upon the almost +royal throne of Egypt, and whom she is interested in protecting. Her +soldiers are in Egypt; the new Egyptian army is under an English General; +her military police is under the command of an English ex-Colonel of +cavalry; her Diplomatic Agent directs the foreign policy; almost all the +principal offices of the State are in the hands of Englishmen. + +The Soudan has been the scene of the most fearful sanguinary encounters +between the ill-directed troops of the Egyptian Government and the +victorious tribes gathered under the sacred banner of the Mahdi; and +unless firm resistance is offered soon to the advance of the Prophet, it +becomes clear to many in England that this vast region and fertile basin +of the Upper Nile will be lost to Egypt, unless troops and money be +furnished to meet the emergency. To the view of good sense it is clear +that, as England has undertaken to direct the government and manage the +affairs of Egypt, she cannot avoid declaring her policy as regards the +Soudan. To a question addressed to the English Prime Minister in +Parliament, as to whether the Soudan was regarded as forming a part of +Egypt, and if so, whether the British Government would take steps to +restore order there, Mr. Gladstone replied, that the Soudan had not been +included in the sphere of English operations, and that the Government was +not disposed to include it within the sphere of English responsibility. +As a declaration of policy no fault can be found with it; it is Mr. +Gladstone's policy, and there is nothing to be said against it as such; +it is his principle, the principle of his associates in the Government, +and of his party, and as a principle it deserves respect. + +The Political Agent in Egypt, Sir Evelyn Baring, while the fate of Hicks +Pasha and his army was still unknown, but suspected, sends repeated +signals of warning to the English Government, and suggests remedies and +means of averting a final catastrophe. "If Hicks Pasha is defeated, +Khartoum is in danger; by the fall of Khartoum, Egypt will be menaced." + +Lord Granville replies at various times in the months of November and +December, 1883, that the Government advises the abandonment of the Soudan +within certain limits; that the Egyptian Government must take the sole +responsibility of operations beyond Egypt Proper; that the Government has +no intention of employing British or Indian troops in the Soudan; that +ineffectual efforts on the part of the Egyptian Government to secure the +Soudan would only increase the danger. + +Sir Evelyn Baring notified Lord Granville that no persuasion or argument +availed to induce the Egyptian Minister to accept the policy of +abandonment. Cherif Pasha, the Prime Minister, also informed Lord +Granville that, according to Valentine Baker Pasha, the means at the +disposal were utterly inadequate for coping with the insurrection in the +Soudan. + +Then Lord Granville replied, through Sir Evelyn Baring, that it was +indispensable that, so long as English soldiers provisionally occupied +Egypt, the advice of Her Majesty's Ministers should be followed, and that +he insisted on its adoption. The Egyptian Ministers were changed, and +Nubar Pasha became Prime Minister on the 10th January, 1884. + +On the 17th December, Valentine Baker departed from Egypt for Suakim, to +commence military operations for the maintenance of communication between +Suakim and Berber, and the pacification of the tribes in that region. +While it was absolutely certain in England that Baker's force would +suffer a crushing defeat, and suspected in Egypt, the General does not +seem to be aware of any danger, or if there be, he courts it. The +Khedive, fearful that to his troops an engagement will be most +disastrous, writes privately to Baker Pasha: "I rely on your prudence and +ability not to engage the enemy except under the most favourable +conditions." Baker possessed ability and courage in abundance; but the +event proved that prudence and judgment were as absent in his case as in +that of the unfortunate Hicks. His force consisted of 3746 men. On the +6th of February he left Trinkitat on the sea shore, towards Tokar. After +a march of six miles the van of the rebels was encountered, and shortly +after the armies were engaged. It is said "that the rebels displayed the +utmost contempt for the Egyptians; that they seized them by the neck and +cut their throats; and that the Government troops, paralysed by fear, +turned their backs, submitting to be killed rather than attempt to defend +their lives; that hundreds threw away their rifles, knelt down, raised +their clasped hands, and prayed for mercy." + +The total number killed was 2373 out of 3746. Mr. Royle, the excellent +historian of the Egyptian campaigns, says: "Baker knew, or ought to have +known, the composition of the troops he commanded, and to take such men +into action was simply to court disaster." What ought we to say of +Hicks? + +We now come to General Gordon, who from 1874 to 1876 had been working in +the Upper Soudan on the lines commenced by Sir Samuel Baker, conciliating +natives, crushing slave caravans, destroying slave stations, and +extending Egyptian authority by lines of fortified forts up to the +Albert Nyanza. After four months' retirement he was appointed +Governor-General of the Soudan, of Darfur, and the Equatorial Provinces. +Among others whom Gordon employed as Governors of these various provinces +under his Vice-regal Government was one Edward Schnitzler, a German born +in Oppeln, Prussia, 28th March, 1840, of Jewish parents, who had seen +service in Turkey, Armenia, Syria, and Arabia, in the suite of Ismail +Hakki Pasha, once Governor-General of Scutari, and a Mushir of the +Empire. On the death of his patron he had departed to Niesse, where his +mother, sister, and cousins lived, and where he stayed for several +months, and thence left for Egypt. He, in 1875, thence travelled to +Khartoum, and being a medical doctor, was employed by Gordon Pasha in +that capacity. He assumed the name and title of Emin Effendi Hakim--the +faithful physician. He was sent to Lado as storekeeper and doctor, was +afterwards despatched to King Mtesa on a political mission, recalled to +Khartoum, again despatched on a similar mission to King Kabba-Rega of +Unyoro, and finally, in 1878, was promoted to Bey, and appointed Governor +of the Equatorial Province of _Ha-tal-astiva_, which, rendered into +English, means Equatoria, at a salary of £50 per month. A mate of one of +the Peninsular and Oriental steamers, called Lupton, was promoted to the +rank of Governor of the Province of Bahr-el-Ghazal, which adjoined +Equatoria. + +[Illustration: EMIN PASHA.] + +On hearing of the deposition of Ismail in 1879, Gordon surrendered his +high office in the hands of Tewfik, the new Khedive, informing him that +he did not intend to resume it. + +In 1880 he accepted the post of Secretary under the Marquis of Ripon, but +resigned it within a month. + +In 1881 he is in Mauritius as Commandant of the Royal Engineers. In about +two months he abandons that post to proceed to the assistance of the Cape +authorities in their difficulty with the Basutos, but, after a little +experience, finds himself unable to agree with the views of the Cape +Government, and resigns. + +Meantime, I have been labouring on the Congo River. Our successes in that +immense territory of Western Africa have expanded into responsibilities +so serious that they threaten to become unmanageable. When I visit the +Lower Congo affairs become deranged on the Upper Congo; if I confine +myself to the Upper Congo there is friction in the Lower Congo. +Wherefore, feeling an intense interest in the growth of the territory +which was rapidly developing into a State, I suggested to His Majesty +King Leopold, as early as September, 1882, and again in the spring of +1883, that I required as an associate a person of merit, rank, and +devotion to work, such as General Gordon, who would undertake either the +management of the Lower or Upper Congo, while I would work in the other +section, as a vast amount of valuable time was consumed in travelling up +and down from one to the other, and young officers of stations were so +apt to take advantage of my absence. His Majesty promised to request the +aid of General Gordon, but for a long time the replies were unfavourable. +Finally, in the spring of 1884, I received a letter in General Gordon's +well-known handwriting, which informed me I was to expect him by the next +mail. + +It appears, however, that he had no sooner mailed his letter to me and +parted from His Majesty than he was besieged by applications from his +countrymen to assist the Egyptian Government in extricating the +beleaguered garrison of Khartoum from their impending fate. Personally I +know nothing of what actually happened when he was ushered by Lord +Wolseley into the presence of Lord Granville, but I have been informed +that General Gordon was confident he could perform the mission entrusted +to him. There is a serious discrepancy in the definition of this mission. +The Egyptian authorities were anxious for the evacuation of Khartoum +only, and it is possible that Lord Granville only needed Gordon's +services for this humane mission, all the other garrisons to be left to +their fate because of the supposed impossibility of rescuing them. The +Blue Books which contain the official despatches seem to confirm the +probability of this. But it is certain that Lord Granville instructed +General Gordon to proceed to Egypt to report on the situation of the +Soudan, and on the best measures that should be taken for the security of +the Egyptian garrisons (in the plural), and for the safety of the +European population in Khartoum. He was to perform such other duties as +the Egyptian Government might wish to entrust to him. He was to be +accompanied by Colonel Stewart. + +Sir Evelyn Baring, after a prolonged conversation with Gordon, gives him +his final instructions on behalf of the British Government. + +A precis of these is as follows:-- + + 1. "Ensure retreat of the European population from 10,000 to 15,000 + people, and of the garrison of Kartoum."[A] + + 2. "You know best the when and how to effect this." + + 3. "You will bear in mind that the main end (of your Mission) is + the evacuation of the Soudan." + + 4. "As you are of opinion it could be done, endeavour to make a + confederation of the native tribes to take the place of Egyptian + authority." + + 5. "A credit of £100,000 is opened for you at the Finance + Department." + +Gordon has succeeded in infusing confidence in the minds of the Egyptian +Ministry, who were previously panic-stricken and cried out for the +evacuation of Khartoum only. They breathe freer after seeing and hearing +him, and according to his own request they invest him with the +Governor-Generalship. The firman, given him, empowers him to evacuate the +respective territories (of the Soudan) and to withdraw the troops, civil +officials, and such of the inhabitants as wish to leave for Egypt, and if +possible, after completing the evacuation (and this was an absolute +impossibility) he was to establish an organized Government. With these +instructions Lord Granville concurs. + +I am told that it was understood, however, that he was to do what he +could--do everything necessary, in fact, if possible; if not all the +Soudan, then he was to proceed to evacuating Khartoum only, without loss +of time. But this is not on official record until March 23rd, 1884, and +it is not known whether he ever received this particular telegram.[B] + +General Gordon proceeded to Khartoum on January 26th, 1884, and arrived +in that city on the 18th of the following month. During his journey he +sent frequent despatches by telegraph abounding in confidence. Mr. Power, +the acting consul and _Times_ correspondent, wired the following +despatch--"The people (of Khartoum) are devoted to General Gordon, whose +design is to save the garrison, and for ever leave the Soudan--as +perforce it must be left--to the Soudanese." + +The English press, which had been so wise respecting the chances of +Valentine Baker Pasha, were very much in the condition of the people of +Khartoum, that is, devoted to General Gordon and sanguine of his success. +He had performed such wonders in China--he had laboured so effectually in +crushing the slave-trade in the Soudan, he had won the affection of the +sullen Soudanese, that the press did not deem it at all improbable that +Gordon with his white wand and six servants could rescue the doomed +garrisons of Senaar, Bahr-el-Ghazal and Equatoria--a total of 29,000 men, +besides the civil employees and their wives and families; and after +performing that more than herculean--nay utterly impossible +task--establish an organized Government. + +On February 29th Gordon telegraphs, "There is not much chance of +improving, and every chance is getting worse," and on the 2nd of the +month "I have no option about staying at Khartoum, it has passed out of +my hands." On the 16th March he predicts that before long "we shall be +blocked." At the latter end of March he telegraphs, "We have provisions +for five months, and are hemmed in." + +It is clear that a serious misunderstanding had occurred in the drawing +up of the instructions by Sir Evelyn Baring and their comprehension of +them by General Gordon, for the latter expresses himself to the former +thus:-- + + "You ask me to state cause and reason of my intention for my + staying at Khartoum. I stay at Khartoum because Arabs have shut us + up, and will not let us out." + +Meantime public opinion urged on the British Government the necessity of +despatching an Expedition to withdraw General Gordon from Khartoum. But +as it was understood between General Gordon and Lord Granville that the +former's mission was for the purpose of dispensing with the services of +British troops in the Soudan, and as it was its declared policy not to +employ English or Indian troops in that region, the Government were +naturally reluctant to yield to the demand of the public. At last, +however, as the clamour increased and Parliament and public joined in +affirming that it was a duty on the country to save the brave man who had +so willingly volunteered to perform such an important service for his +country, Mr. Gladstone rose in the House of Commons on the 5th August to +move a vote of credit to undertake operations for the relief of Gordon. + +Two routes were suggested by which the Relief Expedition could approach +Khartoum--the short cut across the desert from Suakim to Berber, and the +other by the Nile. Gordon expressed his preference for that up the Nile, +and it was this latter route that the Commanding General of the Relief +Expedition adopted. + +On the 18th September, the steamer "Abbas," with Colonel Stewart +(Gordon's companion), Mr. Power, the _Times_ correspondent, Mr. Herbin, +the French Consul, and a number of Greeks and Egyptians on +board--forty-four men all told--on trying to pass by the cataract of Abu +Hamid was wrecked in the cataract. The Arabs on the shore invited them to +land in peace, but unarmed. Stewart complied, and he and the two Consuls +(Power and Herbin) and Hassan Effendi went ashore and entered a house, in +which they were immediately murdered. + +On the 17th November, Gordon reports to Lord Wolseley, who was then at +Wady Halfa, that he can hold out for forty days yet, that the Mahdists +are to the south, south-west, and east, but not to the north of +Khartoum. + +By Christmas Day, 1884, a great part of the Expeditionary Force was +assembled at Korti. So far, the advance of the Expedition had been as +rapid as the energy and skill of the General commanding could command. +Probably there never was a force so numerous animated with such noble +ardour and passion as this under Lord Wolseley for the rescue of that +noble and solitary Englishman at Khartoum. + +On December 30th, a part of General Herbert Stewart's force moves from +Korti towards Gakdul Wells, with 2099 camels. In 46 hours and 50 minutes +it has reached Gakdul Wells; 11 hours later Sir Herbert Stewart with all +the camels starts on his return journey to Korti, which place was reached +January 5th. On the 12th Sir Herbert Stewart was back at Gakdul Wells, +and at 2 P.M. of the 13th the march towards Abu Klea was resumed. On the +17th, the famous battle of Abu Klea was fought, resulting in a hard-won +victory to the English troops, with a loss of 9 officers and 65 men +killed and 85 wounded, out of a total of 1800, while 1100 of the enemy +lay dead before the square. It appears probable that if the 3000 English +sent up the Nile Valley had been with this gallant little force, it would +have been a mere walk over for the English army. After another battle on +the 19th near Metammeh, where 20 men were killed and 60 wounded of the +English, and 250 of the enemy, a village on a gravel terrace near the +Nile was occupied. On the 21st, four steamers belonging to General Gordon +appeared. The officer in command stated that they had been lying for some +weeks near an island awaiting the arrival of the British column. The 22nd +and 23rd were expended by Sir Chas. Wilson in making a reconnaissance, +building two forts, changing the crews of the steamers, and preparing +fuel. On the 24th, two of the steamers started for Khartoum, carrying +only 20 English soldiers. On the 26th two men came aboard and reported +that there had been fighting at Khartoum; on the 27th a man cried out +from the bank that the town had fallen, and that Gordon had been killed. +The next day the last news was confirmed by another man. Sir Charles +Wilson steamed on until his steamers became the target of cannon from +Omdurman and from Khartoum, besides rifles from a distance of from 75 to +200 yards, and turned back only when convinced that the sad news was only +too true. Steaming down river then at full speed he reached Tamanieb when +he halted for the night. From here he sent out two messengers to collect +news. One returned saying that he had met an Arab who informed him that +Khartoum had been entered on the night of the 26th January through the +treachery of Farag Pasha, and that Gordon was killed; that the Mahdi had +on the next day entered the city and had gone into a mosque to return +thanks and had then retired, and had given the city up to three days' +pillage. + +In Major Kitchener's report we find a summary of the results of the +taking of Khartoum. "The massacre in the town lasted some six hours, and +about 4000 persons at least were killed. The Bashi Bazouks and white +regulars numbering 3327, and the Shaigia irregulars numbering 2330, were +mostly all killed in cold blood after they had surrendered and been +disarmed." The surviving inhabitants of the town were ordered out, and as +they passed through the gate were searched, and then taken to Omdurman +where the women were distributed among the Mahdist chiefs, and the men +were stripped and turned adrift to pick a living as they could. A Greek +merchant, who escaped from Khartoum, reported that the town was betrayed +by the merchants there, who desired to make terms with the enemy, and not +by Farag Pasha. + +Darfur, Kordofan, Senaar, Bahr-el-Ghazal, Khartoum, had been possessed by +the enemy; Kassala soon followed, and throughout the length and breadth +of the Soudan there now remained only the Equatorial Province, whose +Governor was Emin Bey Hakim--the Faithful Physician. + +Naturally, if English people felt that they were in duty bound to rescue +their brave countryman, and a gallant General of such genius and +reputation as Gordon, they would feel a lively interest in the fate of +the last of Gordon's Governors, who, by a prudent Fabian policy, it was +supposed, had evaded the fate which had befallen the armies and garrisons +of the Soudan. It follows also that, if the English were solicitous for +the salvation of the garrison of Khartoum, they would feel a +proportionate solicitude for the fate of a brave officer and his little +army in the far South, and that, if assistance could be rendered at a +reasonable cost, there would be no difficulty in raising a fund to effect +that desirable object. + +On November 16, 1884, Emin Bey informs Mr. A. M. Mackay, the missionary +in Uganda, by letter written at Lado, that "the Soudan has become the +theatre of an insurrection; that for nineteen months he is without news +from Khartoum, and that thence he is led to believe that the town has +been taken by the insurgents, or that the Nile is blocked "; but he +says:-- + + "Whatever it proves to be, please inform your correspondents and + through them the Egyptian Government that to this day we are well, + and that we propose to hold out until help may reach us or until we + perish." + +A second note from Emin Bey to the same missionary, on the same date as +the preceding, contains the following:-- + + "The Bahr-Ghazal Province being lost and Lupton Bey, the governor, + carried away to Kordofan, we are unable to inform our Government of + what happens here. For nineteen months we have had no communication + from Khartoum, so I suppose the river is blocked up." + + "Please therefore inform the Egyptian Government by some means that + we are well to this day, but greatly in need of help. We shall hold + out until we obtain such help or until we perish." + +To Mr. Charles H. Allen, Secretary of the Anti-Slavery Society, Emin Bey +writes from Wadelai, December 31, 1885, as follows:-- + + "Ever since the month of May, 1883, we have been cut off from all + communication with the world. Forgotten, and abandoned by the + Government, we have been compelled to make a virtue of necessity. + Since the occupation of the Bahr-Ghazal we have been vigorously + attacked, and I do not know how to describe to you the admirable + devotion of my black troops throughout a long war, which for them + at least, has no advantage. Deprived of the most necessary things + for a long time without any pay, my men fought valiantly, and when + at last hunger weakened them, when, after nineteen days of + incredible privation and sufferings, their strength was exhausted, + and when the last torn leather of the last boot had been eaten, + then they cut away through the midst of their enemies and succeeded + in saving themselves. All this hardship was undergone without the + least _arrière-pensée_, without even the hope of any appreciable + reward, prompted only by their duty and the desire of showing a + proper valour before their enemies." + +This is a noble record of valour and military virtue. I remember the +appearance of this letter in the _Times_, and the impression it made on +myself and friends. It was only a few days after the appearance of this +letter that we began to discuss ways and means of relief for the writer. + +The following letter also impressed me very strongly. It is written to +Dr. R. W. Felkin on the same date, December 31, 1885. + + * * * * * + + "You will probably know through the daily papers that poor Lupton, + after having bravely held the Bahr-Ghazal Province was compelled, + through the treachery of his own people, to surrender to the + emissaries of the late Madhi, and was carried by them to + Kordofan." + + "My province and also myself I only saved from a like fate by a + stratagem, but at last I was attacked, and many losses in both men + and ammunition were the result, until I delivered such a heavy blow + to the rebels at Rimo, in Makraka, that compelled them to leave me + alone. Before this took place they informed us that Khartoum fell, + in January, 1885, and that Gordon was killed." + + "Naturally on account of these occurrences I have been compelled to + evacuate our more distant stations, and withdraw our soldiers and + their families, still hoping that our Government will send us help. + It seems, however, that I have deceived myself, for since April, + 1883, I have received no news of any kind from the north." + + "The Government in Khartoum did not behave well to us. Before they + evacuated Fashoda, they ought to have remembered that Government + officials were living here (Equatorial Provinces) who had performed + their duty, and had not deserved to be left to their fate without + more ado. Even if it were the intention of the Government to + deliver us over to our fate, the least they could have done was to + have released us from our duties; we should then have known that we + were considered to have become valueless." + + * * * * * + + "Anyway it was necessary for us to seek some way of escape, and in + the first place it was urgent to send news of our existence in + Egypt. With this object in view I went south, after having made the + necessary arrangements at Lado, and came to Wadelai." + + * * * * * + + "As to my future plans, I intend to hold this country as long as + possible. I hope that when our letters arrive in Egypt, in seven or + eight months, a reply will be sent to me _viâ_ Khartoum or + Zanzibar. If the Egyptian Government still exists in the Soudan we + naturally expect them to send us help. If, however, the Soudan has + been evacuated, I shall take the whole of the people towards the + south. I shall then send the whole of the Egyptian and Khartoum + officials _viâ_ Uganda or Karagwé to Zanzibar, but shall remain + myself with my black troops at Kabba-Rege's until the Government + inform me as to their wishes." + +This is very clear that Emin Pasha at this time proposed to relieve +himself of the Egyptian officials, and that he himself only intended to +remain until the Egyptian Government could communicate to him its wishes. +Those "wishes" were that he should abandon his province, as they were +unable to maintain it, and take advantage of the escort to leave Africa. + +In a letter written to Mr. Mackay dated July 6th, 1886, Emin says:-- + + "In the first place believe me that I am in no hurry to break away + from here, or to leave those countries in which I have now laboured + for ten years." + + * * * * * + + "All my people, but especially the negro troops, entertain a strong + objection against a march to the south and thence to Egypt, and + mean to remain here until they can be taken north. Meantime, if no + danger overtakes us, and our ammunition holds out for sometime + longer, I mean to follow your advice and remain here until help + comes to us from some quarter. At all events, you may rest assured + that we will occasion no disturbance to you in Uganda." + + "I shall determine on a march to the coast only in a case of dire + necessity. There are, moreover, two other routes before me. One + from Kabba-Rega's direct to Karagwé; the other _viâ_ Usongora to + the stations at Tanganika. I hope, however, that I shall have no + need to make use of either." + + * * * * * + + "My people have become impatient through long delay, and are + anxiously looking for help at last. It would also be most desirable + that some Commissioner came here from Europe, either direct by the + Masai route, or from Karagwé _viâ_ Kabba-Rega's country, in order + that my people may actually see that there is some interest taken + in them. I would defray with ivory all expenses of such a + Commission." + + "As I once more repeat, I am ready to stay and to hold these + countries as long as I can until help comes, and I beseech you to + do what you can to hasten the arrival of such assistance. Assure + Mwanga that he has nothing to fear from me or my people, and that + as an old friend of Mtesa's I have no intention to trouble him." + +In the above letters we have Emin Bey's views, wherein we gather that his +people are loyal--that is they are obedient to his commands, but that +none of them, judging from the tenour of the letters, express any +inclination to return to Egypt, excepting the Egyptians. He is at the +same time pondering upon the routes by which it is possible to +retreat--elsewhere he suggests the Monbuttu route to the sea; in these +letters he hints at Masai Land, or through Unyoro, and west of Uganda to +Usongora, and thence to Tanganika! If none of the black troops intended +to follow him, he certainly could not have done so with only the Egyptian +officials and their families. + +From the following letters from the Consul-General, F. Holmwood, to Sir +Evelyn Baring, dated September 25th and September 27th, we gather Mr. +Holmwood's views, who, from his position and local knowledge, was very +competent to furnish information as to what could be done in the way of +the proposed relief. + + "In Emin's letters to me he only reports his situation up to 27th + February, 1886, when he proposed evacuating his province by + detachments, the first of which he proposed to despatch at the + close of the rains toward the end of July; but both Dr. Junker and + Mr. Mackay inform me that they have since heard from Emin that the + majority of the 4000 loyal Egyptian subjects who have remained + faithful to Egypt throughout, and have supported him in the face of + the constant attacks from the Mahdi's adherents, aggravated by an + imminent danger of starvation, refuse to leave their country, and + he had therefore determined, if he could possibly do so, to remain + at his post, and continue to protect Egyptian interests till relief + arrived." + + * * * * * + + "Were Uganda freed from this tyrant (Mwanga), the Equatorial + Province, even should the present elementary system of + communication remain unmodified, would be within eight weeks' post + of Zanzibar, and a safe depôt on the Albert Nyanza would provide a + base for any further operations that might be decided upon." + + "Dr. Junker states that the country to the east of the Ripon + Falls[C] has proved impracticable, and that Emin has lost many + troops in endeavouring to open communication through it. If such be + the case the alternative line by which Dr. Fischer tried to relieve + Junker, and which I believe he still recommends, could not be + relied on for turning Uganda and its eastern dependency, and the + well-known route _viâ_ Uganda would be the only one available for + an Expedition of moderate size." + + * * * * * + + "As far as I am able to judge, without making any special + calculation, I consider that 1200 porters would be the smallest + number that would suffice, and a well-armed guard of at least 500 + natives would be necessary." + + * * * * * + + "General Matthews, whom I had consulted as to the force necessary + for the safety of the Expedition, is of opinion that I have formed + far too low an estimate, but after weighing the testimony of many + experienced persons acquainted with Uganda, I must adhere to my + opinion that 500 native troops armed with modern rifles and under + experienced persons, would, if supplemented by the irregular force, + fully suffice." + +An American officer of the Khedivial Government writes to Mr. Portal, and +suggests that communication with Emin might be opened by the Zanzibar +Arabs, but that to send stores and ammunition to him was impossible; that +the Arabs might manage for his passage, though his safest line of retreat +was westward to reach the Congo. + +Mr. Fred Holmwood, in his despatch to the Foreign Office of September +23rd, 1886, writes that, "had it not been for the dangerous attitude of +the King of Uganda, the question of relieving Emin would have been merely +one of expenditure to be settled at Cairo; but under present +circumstances, many other serious considerations are involved in it which +will have to be referred to Her Majesty's Government." + +"I would call attention to the account contained in Mr. Mackay's letter +regarding the alternative route to Wadelai which Dr. Fischer endeavoured +to take and, I believe, still recommends. If this statement be correct, +any attempt to turn Uganda or its Eastern dependency by this unexplored +line would probably fail." + +Mr. A. M. Mackay writes from Uganda, May 14th, 1886:-- + + "From Dr. Junker's letter you will have seen that Emin Bey has had + the good fortune to have secured the loyalty of the people he + governs. Emin seems to have learned Gordon's secret of securing the + affection of his subjects, and has bravely stuck to them. There can + be no doubt at all but that had he been anxious to leave he would + with a few hundred of his soldiers have easily made a dash for the + coast either through the Masai Land or this way, asking no + permission from Mwanga (King of Uganda) or anyone else. He knows + that there is no power here able to stop him. In fact years ago he + wrote me that it would be nothing to him to storm this wretched + village and drive off the cattle." + + "But what would be the fate of thousands of people who have + remained loyal on the Upper Nile? Dr. Junker speaks of thousands. + They do not want to be taken out of their own fertile country, and + taken to the deserts of Upper Egypt." + + "Dr. Emin is on all hands allowed to be a wise and able Governor. + But he cannot remain for ever where he is, nor can he succeed + himself, even should the Mahdi's troops leave him undisturbed in + the future. His peculiar position should be taken advantage of by + our country, which undertook to rescue the garrisons of the + Soudan." + + * * * * * + + "Mwanga's action with respect to the letters forwarded him for Dr. + Emin, was as disrespectful as possible to the British Government + which had received with such kindness his father's envoys. We asked + him merely to forward the letters in the first place until he + should receive word from Emin as to whether or not he was prepared + to come this way, but he detained your packet altogether." + +In Mr. Mackay's letter to Sir John Kirk, June 28th, 1886, he says:-- + + "Dr. Fischer's difficulties would also only really begin after + Kavirondo, as he then had the country of the dreaded Bakedi to + cross, and Dr. Junker tells me that whole parties of Dr. Emin's + soldiers have been repeatedly murdered by them." + +Dr. Fischer, it will be remembered, was engaged to proceed to Equatoria +in search of Dr. Junker by that traveller's brother, and chose the road +_viâ_ East coast of the Victoria Lake. Arriving at the N.E. corner of the +Lake he returned to the coast. + +Mr. Mackay proceeds:-- + + "Dr. Junker is living here with us. He brought me a letter from + Emin Bey dated the 27th January (1886). He then proposed sending + his people at once this way--some 4000--in small detachments. This + policy would be fatal. He also asked me to go to meet him with a + view to bringing here two steamers which otherwise he would have to + abandon. One of them he meant for the King, and the other for the + mission." + + "Since then, however he finds that his people, officers and men, + refuse to leave the Soudan, hence he is prepared to remain some + years with them provided only he can get supplies of cloth, etc." + +Mr. Mackay always writes sensibly. I obtained a great deal of solid +information from these letters. + +Naturally he writes in the full belief that Emin's troops are loyal. We +all shared in this belief. We now see that we were grossly misled, and +that at no time could Emin have cut his way to the coast through Uganda +or any other country with men of such fibre as his ignorant and stolid +Soudanese. + +Mr. Joseph Thomson, in a letter to the _Times_, suggested a route through +the Masai Land, and proposed to be responsible for the safe conduct of a +Relief Expedition through that country. + +Mr. J. T. Wills suggested that the Mobangi-Welle would prove an excellent +way to Emin. + +Mr. Harrison Smith expressed himself assured that a way by Abyssinia +would be found feasible. + +Another gentleman interested in the African Lakes Company proposed that +the Expedition should adopt the Zambezi-Shire-Nyassa route, and thence +_viâ_ Tanganika north to Muta Nzige and Lake Albert, and a missionary +from the Tanganika warmly endorsed it, as not presenting more +difficulties than any other. + +Dr. Felkin, in the 'Scottish Geographical Magazine,' after examining +several routes carefully, came to the conclusion that a road west of Lake +Victoria and Karagwé, through Usongora to Lake Albert, possessed some +advantages over any other. + +Early in October, 1886, Sir William Mackinnon and Mr. J. F. Hutton, +ex-President of the Manchester Chamber of Commerce, had spoken with me +respecting the possibilities of conveying relief to Emin, with a view to +enable him to hold his own. To them it seemed that he only required +ammunition, and I shared their opinion, and they were very earnest in +their intention to collect funds for the support he required. But many of +their friends were absent from town, and they could not decide alone what +should be done without consultation. We discussed estimates and routes, +and Mr. Hutton informs me that the rough estimate I furnished him then +exceeds by £500 the actual cost of the Expedition. + +As for routes, I intimated to them that there were four almost equally +feasible. + +The first, _viâ_ Masai Land, was decidedly objectionable while carrying a +vast store of ammunition which absolutely must reach Emin. Mr. Thomson +had tried it, and his account of the extremities to which he was driven +on returning from the Lake Victoria, for want of water and grain, were +extremely unfavourable. In proceeding to the lake his people were +dispirited, and deserted in such numbers that he was obliged to return a +short distance, to Kilima Njaro, leave his camp there, and proceed with a +few men back to the coast to recruit more men. In case of a pressing +necessity like this it would be extremely unwise to return a mile after +commencing the march. The tendency of the Zanzibaris to desert also was +another disadvantage, and desertion of late from East Coast Expeditions +had assumed alarming proportions owing to the impunity with which they +could decamp with rifles and loads, and the number of opportunities +presented to them. Many of the Zanzibaris had become professional +advance-jumpers, and the greater the expedition the greater would be the +loss in money, rifles and stores. + +The second, _viâ_ Victoria Nyanza and Uganda, which was naturally the +best, was rendered impossible for a small expedition because of the +hostility of Uganda. Even this hostility could be avoided if there were +any vessels on Lake Victoria capable of transporting across the lake such +an expedition as was needed. The danger of desertion was just as imminent +on this as on the first. + +The third was _viâ_ Msalala, Karagwé and Ankori, and Unyoro and Lake +Albert. Immense loss of men and goods would assuredly follow any attempt +from the East Coast. Fifty per cent. loss was unavoidable, and no +precautions would avail to prevent desertion. Besides, Karagwé was +garrisoned by the Waganda, and no expedition could pass through that +country without persistent hostility from the Waganda. If fortunate +enough to force our way through Karagwé, we should have to reckon with +the Wanyankori, who number 200,000 spears, and if introduced to them by +fighting the Karagwé natives the outlook would be dismal in the extreme. +As for going through any country west of Karagwé to avoid the Waganda +that would be impossible, except at a cost that I did not suppose the +subscribers would contemplate paying. + +"The whole question resolves itself into that of money. With money enough +every route is possible; but as I understand it, you propose to subscribe +a moderate amount, and therefore there is only one route which is safely +open for the money, and that is the Congo. This river has the +disadvantage of not having enough transport vessels in its upper portion. +I would propose then to supplement the Upper Congo flotilla with fifteen +whale-boats, which will take an Expedition to within 200 miles, at least, +of the Albert Nyanza. A heavy labour will be carrying the whale-boats +from the Lower Congo to the Upper, but we can easily manage it by sending +agents at once there to prepare carriers. There is one thing, however, +that must be done--which is to obtain the sanction of King Leopold. + +"But it may be we are rather premature in discussing the matter at all. +You know I am aware of many projects mooted, and much 'talk' has been +expended on each and this may end in smoke--collect your funds, and then +call upon me if you want me. If you do not require me after this +exposition of my views, let Thomson take his Expedition through the Masai +Land, and put me down for £500 subscription for it." + +As the middle of November drew near, Sir William Mackinnon requested me +to write him a letter upon the subject that he might show it to his +friends, who would soon be returning to town. + +A few days after the despatch of the letter, I sailed for America, and on +arrival at New York, the lecture "Tour," as it is called, commenced. But +on the 11th December, the fifteenth day after arrival, I received the +following:-- + + "London. + + "Your plan and offer accepted. Authorities approve. Funds provided. + Business urgent. Come promptly. Reply. + + "Mackinnon." + +A reply was sent from St. Johnsbury, Vermont, for thus far the lecture +tour had reached, as follows:-- + + Just received Monday's cablegram. Many thanks. Everything all + right. Will sail per _Eider_ 8 a.m. Wednesday morning. If good + weather and barring accidents arrive 22nd December, Southampton. It + is only one month's delay after all. Tell the authorities to + prepare Holmwood (Consul General) Zanzibar, and Seyyid Barghash + (Prince of Zanzibar). Best compliments to you. + + "Stanley." + +My agent was in despair--the audiences were so kind--the receptions were +ovations, but arguments and entreaties were of no avail. + +I arrived in England the day preceding Christmas, and within a few hours +Sir William Mackinnon and myself were discussing the Expedition. + +Of course, and without the least shade of doubt, I was firmly convinced +that the Congo River route was infinitely the best and safest, provided +that I should get my flotilla of whale-boats, and the permission of King +Leopold to pass through his territory with an armed force. I knew a route +from the East Coast, and was equally acquainted with that from the West +Coast. From the furthest point reached by me in 1876, along the East +Coast road, the distance was but 100 miles to Lake Albert--from Yambuya +Rapids the distance was 322 geographical miles in an air line to the +lake. Yet to the best of my judgment the Congo route was preferable. We +should have abundance of water--which was so scanty and bad along the +Eastern route; food there must be--it was natural to expect it from my +knowledge that unsurpassed fertility such as the Upper Congo regions +possesses would have been long ago discovered by the aborigines, whereas +we knew from Thomson, Fischer, and Hannington's experiences that food and +water was scanty in Masai Land; then again, that wholesale desertion so +frequent on the East Coast would be avoided on the West Coast. + +Yet notwithstanding they admitted that I might be right, it was the +opinion of the Committee that it would be best to adopt the Eastern +route. + + "Very good, it is perfectly immaterial to me. Let us decide on the + East Coast route, _viâ_ Msalala, Karagwé, Ankori, and Unyoro. If + you hear of some hard-fighting, I look to you that you will defend + the absent. If I could drop this ammunition in Emin's camp from a + balloon I certainly would do so, and avoid coming in contact with + those warlike natives, but it is decided that the means of defence + must be put into Emin's hands, and you have entrusted me with the + escort of it. So be it." + +A Relief Fund was raised, the subscriptions to which were as follows:-- + + £ + Sir William Mackinnon, Bart. 2,000 + Peter Mackinnon, Esq. 1,000 + John Mackinnon, Esq. 300 + Baroness Burdett-Coutts 100 + W. Burdett-Coutts, Esq. 400 + James S. Jameson, Esq. 1,000 + Countess de Noailles 1,000 + Peter Denny, Esq., of Dumbarton 1,000 + Henry Johnson Younger, Esq., of the + Scottish Geographical Society 500 + Alexander L. Bruce, Esq., of the + Scottish Geographical Society 500 + Messrs. Gray, Dawes & Co., of London 1,000 + Duncan Mac Neil, Esq. 700 + James F. Hutton, Esq., of Manchester 250 + Sir Thos. Fowell Buxton 250 + James Hall, Esq., of Argyleshire 250 + N. McMichael, Esq., of Glasgow 250 + Royal Geographical Society, London 1,000 + Egyptian Government 10,000 + ------ + £21,500[D] + +In order to increase the funds and create a provision against +contingencies, I volunteered to write letters from Africa, which the +Committee might dispose of to the press as they saw fit, and accept +whatever moneys that might receive as my contribution to it. + +The estimate of time required to reach Emin Pasha, after a careful +calculation, was formed on the basis that whereas I travelled in 1874-5 a +distance of 720 miles in 103 days, therefore:-- + + 1st route.--By Masai Land, march to Wadelai and return to coast + 14 months. Reserve for delays 4 months = 18 months. + + 2nd route.--By Msalala, Karagwé, Ankori, and Usongora to Lake + Albert. Land march to and return 16 months, delays + 4 months = 20 months. + + 3rd route.--_Viâ_ Congo. + Zanzibar to Congo 1 mth. = 1st April, 1887 + Overland route to Stanley Pool 1 " = 1st May " + By steam up the Congo 1-1/2 " = 15th June " + Halt 25th " " + Yambuya to Albert Nyanza 3 mths = 25th Sept., 1887 + Halt 9th Jan., 1888 + Albert Nyanza to Zanzibar, + land march 8 " = 8th Sept. " + Delays 3-1/2 " = 18 months. + + +The actual time, however, occupied by the Expedition is as follows:-- + + Arrive at Congo 18th Mar., 1887 + " " Stanley Pool 21st Apr. " + " " Yambuya 15th June " + Halt at Yambuya 28th " " + Albert Nyanza 13th Dec. " + Return to Fort Bodo 8th Jan., 1888 + Halt while collecting convalescents 2nd Apr. " + The Albert Nyanza, 2nd time 18th " " + Halt until 25th May " + Fort Bodo again 8th June " + Banalya 90 miles from Yambuya 17th Aug. " + Fort Bodo again 20th Dec. " + Albert Nyanza, 3rd time 26th Jan., 1889 + Halt near Albert Nyanza until 8th May " + March to Zanzibar, 1400 miles, 6 months. 6th Dec. " + + So that we actually occupied a little over 10-1/2 months from + Zanzibar to the Albert Nyanza, and + from the Nyanza to the Indian Ocean. 6 " + Halt at the Albert 1-1/2 " + ------- + 18 " + +I was formally informed by letter on the 31st of December, 1886, that I +might commence my preparations. + +The first order I gave in connection with the Expedition for the relief +of Emin Bey was by cable to Zanzibar to my agent, Mr. Edmund Mackenzie, +of Messrs. Smith, Mackenzie & Co., to engage 200 Wanyamwezi porters at +Bagamoyo to convey as many loads of rice (= 6 tons) to the missionary +station at Mpwapwa, which was about 200 miles east of Zanzibar, the cost +of which was 2,700 rupees. + +The second order, after receiving the consent of His Highness the Seyyid +of Zanzibar, was to enlist 600 Zanzibari porters, and also the purchase +of the following goods, to be used for barter for native provisions, such +as grain, potatoes, rice, Indian corn, bananas, plantains, etc. + + Yards. + 400 pieces (30 yards each) of brown sheeting 12,000 + 865 " (8 " " ) of kaniki 6,920 + 99 " (8 " " ) handkerchiefs 792 + 80 " (8 " " ) tanjiri 640 + 214 " (8 " " ) dabwani 1,712 + 107 " (8 " " ) sohari 856 + 27 " (8 " " ) subaya 216 + 121 " (8 " " ) Barsati 968 + 58 " (24 " " ) Kunguru 1,392 + 48 " (8 " " ) ismaili 384 + 119 " (8 " " ) kikoi 952 + 14 " (4 " " ) daole 56 + 27 " (4 " " ) jawah 108 + 4 " (24 " " ) kanga 96 + 4 " (24 " " ) bindera 96 + 58 " (8 " " ) rehani 464 + 6 " (30 " " ) joho 180 + 24 " (4 " " ) silk kikoi 96 + 4 " (4 " " ) silk daole 96 + 24 " (4 " " ) fine dabwani 96 + 13 " (4 " " ) sohari 52 + 3 " (30 " " ) fine sheeting 90 + 24 long shirts, white + 24 " " brown ------- + Total yards 27,262 + + +Also 3,600 lbs. of beads and 1 ton of wire, brass, copper, iron. + +The third order was for the purchase of forty pack donkeys and ten riding +asses, which necessitated an order for saddles to match, at an expense of +£400. + +Messrs. Forrest & Son received a design and order for the construction +of a steel boat 28 ft. long, 6 ft. beam, and 2 ft. 6 in. deep. It was to +be built of Siemens steel galvanized, and divided into twelve sections, +each weighing about 75 lbs. The fore and aft sections were to be decked +and watertight, to give buoyancy in case of accident. + +From Egypt were despatched to Zanzibar 510 Remington rifles, 2 tons of +gunpowder, 350,000 percussion caps, and 100,000 rounds Remington +ammunition. In England the War Office furnished me with 30,000 Gatling +cartridges, and from Messrs. Kynoch & Co., Birmingham, I received 35,000 +special Remington cartridges. Messrs. Watson & Co., of 4, Pall Mall, +packed up 50 Winchester repeaters and 50,000 Winchester cartridges. Hiram +Maxim, the inventor of the Maxim Automatic Gun, donated as a gift one of +his wonderful weapons, with shield attached mounted on a light but +effective stand. + +We despatched to Zanzibar 100 shovels, 100 hoes, for forming breastworks, +100 axes for palisading the camp, 100 bill-hooks for building zeribas. + +Messrs. Burroughs & Welcome, of Snowhill Buildings, London, the +well-known chemists, furnished gratis nine beautiful chests replete with +every medicament necessary to combat the endemic diseases peculiar to +Africa. Every drug was in tablets mixed with quick solvents, every +compartment was well stocked with essentials for the doctor and surgeon. +Nothing was omitted, and we all owe a deep debt of gratitude to these +gentlemen, not only for the intrinsic value of these chests and excellent +medicines, but also for the personal selection of the best that London +could furnish, and the supervision of the packing, by which means we were +enabled to transport them to Yambuya without damage. + +Messrs. John Edgington & Co., of Duke Street, London, took charge of our +tents, and made them out of canvas dipped in a preservative of sulphate +of copper which preserved them for three years. Notwithstanding their +exposure to three hundred days of rain, for the first time in my +experience in Africa I possessed a tent which, after arrival at Zanzibar +in 1889, was well able to endure two hundred days more of rain. + +Messrs. Fortnum & Mason, of Piccadilly, packed up forty carrier loads of +choicest provisions. Every article was superb, the tea retained its +flavour to the last, the coffee was of the purest Mocha, the Liebig +Company's Extract was of the choicest, and the packing of all was +excellent. + +[Illustration: CAPTAIN NELSON.] + +I need not enumerate what else was purchased. Four expeditions into +Africa, with my old lists of miscellanea before me, enabled me to choose +the various articles, and in Sir Francis de Winton and Captain Grant +Elliott I had valuable assistants who would know what magazines to +patronize, and who could check the deliveries. + +Colonel Sir Francis de Winton was my successor on the Congo, and he gave +me gratuitously and out of pure friendship the benefit of his great +experience, and his masterly knowledge of business to assist me in the +despatch of the various businesses connected with the expedition, +especially in answering letters, and selecting out of the hundreds of +eager applicants for membership a few officers to form a staff. + +[Illustration: LIEUTENANT STAIRS.] + +The first selected was Lieutenant W. Grant Stairs, of the Royal +Engineers, who had applied by letter. The concise style and directness of +the application appealed strongly in his favour. We sent for him, and +after a short interview enlisted him on condition that he could obtain +leave of absence. Lord Wolseley kindly granted leave. + +[Illustration: MR. WILLIAM BONNY.] + +The next was Mr. William Bonny, who, having failed in his epistolary +ventures on former expeditions, thought the best way was to present +himself in person for service in any capacity. The gentleman would not +take a mild negative. His breast was covered with medals. They spoke +eloquently, though dumb, for his merits. The end of it was Mr. Bonny was +engaged as medical assistant, he having just left service in a hospital +of the A.M.D. + +The third was Mr. John Rose Troup, who had performed good service on the +Congo. He was intimate with Swahili, the vernacular of Zanzibar. He was +not dainty at work, was exact and methodical in preserving accounts. Mr. +Troup was engaged. + +[Illustration: MR. A. J. MOUNTENEY JEPHSON.] + +The fourth volunteer who presented himself was Major Edmund Musgrave +Barttelot, of the 7th Fusileers. He was accompanied by an acquaintance of +mine who spoke highly of him. What passed at the interview will be heard +later on. After a few remarks he was also engaged. + +The fifth was Captain R. H. Nelson, of Methuen's Horse, fairly +distinguished in Zulu campaigns. There was merit in his very face. +Captain Nelson agreed to sign the articles of enlistment. + +Our next volunteer was Mr. A. J. Mounteney Jephson, inexperienced as yet +in foreign travel, and quite unaccustomed to "roughing" in wilds. On some +members of the Committee Mr. Jephson made the impression that he was +unfitted for an expedition of this kind, being in their opinion of too +"high class." But the Countess de Noailles made a subscription in his +favour to the Relief Fund of £1,000, an argument that the Committee could +not resist, and Mr. Jephson signed the articles of agreement with +unshaken nerves. Poor young Jephson! he emerged out of Africa after +various severe trials which are herein related. + +One of the latest to apply, and when the list was about to be closed, was +Mr. James S. Jameson. He had travelled in Mashona and Matabele lands in +South Africa to collect trophies of the wild chase, to study birds, and +to make sketches. He did not appear remarkably strong. We urged that, but +he as quickly defended his slight appearance, and argued that as he had +already spent a long time in Africa his experience disproved our fears. +Besides, he was willing to subscribe £1,000 for the privilege of +membership, and do faithful and loyal service, as though it was +indispensable for the Expedition to employ him. Mr. Jameson was firm, and +subscribed to the articles. + +We were in the full swing of preparations to meet the necessities of the +overland march from Zanzibar, east to the Victoria Nyanza, when, as will +be shown by the tenor of the following letter, it became necessary to +reconsider our route. + + "Palais de Bruxelles, + "7th January, 1887. + + "Dear Mr. Stanley, + + "The Congo State has nothing to gain by the Expedition for the + relief of Emin Pasha passing through its territory. The King has + suggested this road merely so as to lend your services to the + Expedition, which it would be impossible for him to do were the + Expedition to proceed by the Eastern coast. According to your own + estimate, the Expedition proceeding by the Eastern coast would + occupy about eighteen months. His Majesty considers that he would + be failing in his duty towards the State were he to deprive it of + your services, especially as the latter will be certainly needed + before the expiration of this lapse of time. + + "If the Expedition proceeds by the Congo the State will promise to + show it all good will. The State likewise gratuitously places at + the disposal of the Expedition the whole of its naval stock, + inasmuch as will allow the working arrangements of its own + administration, which it is, above all, desirous of ensuring, as + you know. The _Stanley_ is the largest steamer on the Upper Congo. + We are forwarding a second one by the mail of the 15th inst., and + we will hasten as much as possible the launching of this steamer at + Stanley Pool; she will be a valuable and much-needed adjunct to our + flotilla. In the meanwhile the mission steamer _Peace_ would no + doubt gratuitously effect certain transports. + + "Should the Expedition desire it, we would facilitate the + recruiting of Bangala; we are very pleased with the latter, as they + are excellent soldiers, and do not fear the Arabs like the + Zanzibaris. + + "You will have remarked that the official documents, published this + week in Berlin, limit the territory of Zanzibar to a narrow strip + of land along the seashore. Beyond this strip the entire territory + is German. If the Germans allow the Expedition to cross their + territory, the Zanzibaris would be precisely as on the Congo, on + foreign soil. + + "With kind regards, I am, dear Mr. Stanley, + "Yours very truly, + "Comte de Borchgrave." + +That this was not a light matter to be hastily decided will be evident by +the following note which was sent me by Sir William Mackinnon:-- + + "Western Club, Glasgow, + "_January 4th, 1887_. + + "My dear Stanley, + + "I had a pleasant short letter from the King showing how anxious he + is the Congo route should be taken, and how unwilling to allow a + break in the continuity of your connection with the Congo State, as + he considers you a pillar of the State. He asks me to banish(?) any + divergent sentiments, and get all parties to agree to the Congo + route. I have explained fully all that has been done and is doing, + and the difficulties in the way of cancelling existing engagements, + and get the authorities, home and Egyptian and the Sultan of + Zanzibar, to acquiesce in making such a change. I also mentioned + the great additional charge involved by sending 600 men, even if + the Sultan should consent to their going from Zanzibar to the Congo + and bringing them back. + + "I promised, however, to ascertain whether all interested in the + present arrangements would agree in taking the Congo route." + + * * * * * + +In my diary of January 5th I find written briefly the heads of businesses +despatched this day. + +As suggested by Mackinnon, who has been written to by King Leopold upon +the subject of the Congo route, I saw Sir Percy Anderson, and revealed +the King's desire that the Expedition should proceed _viâ_ Congo. I was +requested to state what advantages the Congo route gave, and replied:-- + +1st. Certainty of reaching Emin. + +2nd. Transport up the Congo River by state steamers to a point 320 +geographical miles from Lake Albert. + +3rd. Allaying suspicion of Germans that underlying our acts were +political motives. + +4th. Allaying alleged fears of French Government that our Expedition +would endanger the lives of French Missionaries. + +5th. If French Missionaries were endangered, then English Missionaries +would certainly share their fate. + +6th. Greater immunity from the desertion of the Zanzibaris who were +fickle in the neighbourhood of Arab settlements. + +Lord Iddesleigh writes me that the French ambassador has been instructed +to inform him that if the Emin Pasha Relief Expedition proceeds by a +route east of the Victoria Nyanza it will certainly endanger the lives of +their Missionaries in Uganda. He suggests that I consider this question. + +Visited Admiralty, inquired of Admiral Sullivan respecting the +possibility of Admiralty supplying vessel to carry Expedition to Congo. +He said if Government ordered it would be easy, if not, impossible. + +Wrote to the King urging him to acquaint me how far his assistance would +extend in transport on the Upper Congo. + +_January 8th._--Received letters from the King. He lays claim to my +services. Offers to lend whole of his naval stock for transport except +such as may be necessary for uses of administration. Wired to Mackinnon +that I felt uneasy at the clause; that it was scarcely compatible with +the urgency required. Colonel de Winton wrote to the same effect. + +Effects of Expedition are arriving by many cuts. + +De Winton worked with me until late in the night. + +_January 9th, 1887._--Colonel J. A. Grant, Colonel Sir F. de Winton, and +myself sat down to consider His Majesty's letter, and finally wrote a +reply requesting he would graciously respond with greater definiteness +respecting quantity of transport and time for which transport vessels +will be granted as so many matters depend upon quick reply, such as hire +of Soudanese, detention of mail steamer for shipment of ammunition, etc. +We therefore send special messenger. + +_January 10th, 1887._--De Winton visited Foreign Office and was promised +as soon as possible to attend to the detention of mail steamer and +Government transport round the Cape of Good Hope. + +Messrs. Gray, Dawes & Co. write Postmaster-General willing to detain +Zanzibar mail steamer at Aden to wait _Navarino_, which sails from London +on the 20th with the ammunition and officers. I overtake _Navarino_ at +Suez after settling matters of Expedition in Egypt. + +_January 12th._--Answer arrived last night. Meeting was called by +Honourable Guy Dawnay, Colonel Sir Lewis Pelly, Colonel Sir F. de Winton +and self. The answer as regards Congo route being satisfactory was +decided upon, and this has now been adopted unanimously. + +Was notified at 2 P.M. by the Earl of Iddesleigh that he would see me at +6 P.M. But at 3.13 P.M. the Earl died suddenly from disease of the +heart. + +_January 13th._--Foreign office note received from Sir J. Pauncefote +transmitting telegram from Sir E. Baring, also letters concerning +Admiralty transport. No help from Admiralty. + +Goods arriving fast. Will presently fill my house. + +Went down with Baroness Burdett-Coutts to Guildhall, arriving there 12.45 +P.M. I received Freedom of City of London, and am called youngest +citizen. Afterwards lunched at Mansion House, a distinguished party +present, and affair most satisfactory. + +Telegraphed to Brussels to know if Friday convenient to King. Reply, "Yes +at 9.30 a.m." + +_January 14th._--Crossed over Channel last night towards Brussels _viâ_ +Ostend to see King Leopold. Saw King and gave my farewell. He was very +kind. Left for London in evening at 8 P.M. + +Telegram arrived from Sandringham requesting visit. + +_January 15th._--Sir Percy Anderson requested interview. + +Mr. Joseph Thomson at this late hour has been writing to Geographical +Society wanting to go with Expedition. + +Arranged with Ingham to collect Congo carriers. He goes out shortly. + +Telegraphed Zanzibar to recall rice carriers from Mpwapwa. This will cost +2,500 rupees more. + +Wrote some days ago to the donor of the _Peace_ Mission Steamer on the +Congo requesting loan of her for the relief of Emin Pasha. Received the +following quaint reply:-- + + "Leeds, _January 15th, 1887_. + + "Dear Mr. Stanley, + + "I have much regard for you personally, although I cannot, dare + not, sanction all your acts. + + "I am very sorry if I cannot give assent to your request; but I + fully believe you will be no sufferer by the circumstance of not + having the s.s. _Peace_. Yesterday I was able to come to a + decision. + + "Mr. Baynes, of the Baptist Missionary Society, Holborn, will, he + hopes, make to you any communication he judges proper. If you have + any reverential regard for 'the Man of Sorrows,' the 'King of + Peace' may He mercifully preserve and save your party. + + "I have no doubt of the safety of Emin--till his work is done. I + believe he will be brought through this trial in perfect safety. + God seems to have given you a noble soul (covers for the moment, if + on your sad sin and mistakes), and I should like you should 'repent + and believe the Gospel'--with real sense, and live hereafter in + happiness, light, and joy--for ever. _Here_ delay in you is more + dangerous than delay for Emin. + + "Your faithful friend, + "(Signed) Robert Arthington." + +_January 16th._--Colonel J. A. Grant offered to arrange with Mr. J. S. +Keltie, Editor of _Nature_, to discuss Mr. Thomson's offer. + +Letters accumulate by scores. All hands employed answering. + +_January 17th._--Wrote Sir Percy Anderson would call Wednesday 2 P.M. +Correspondence increases. + +Mr. Joseph Thomson's offer discussed. Mr. J. S. Keltie is to write to +him privately--decision of committee. + +Arranged with G. S. Mackenzie about Zanzibar matters. He despatched two +telegrams. General Brackenbury wrote about coal being furnished requiring +Treasury sanction. + +_January 18th._--Worked off morning's business. + +Travelled to Sandringham with Colonel de Winton to see His Royal +Highness. With African map before us gave short lecture to their Royal +Highnesses respecting route proposed to reach Emin Pasha. Had a very +attentive audience. + +_January 19th._--Sir William Mackinnon mustered his friends at the +Burlington Hotel at a farewell banquet to me. + +Have said "good-bye" to a host of friends to-day. + +_January 20th._--The S.S. _Navarino_ sailed this afternoon carrying goods +of Expedition and officers. Lieutenant Stairs, Captain Nelson, and Mr. +Mounteney Jephson. Mr. William Bonny started from my rooms with black boy +Baruti to Fenchurch Station at 8 a.m. Arriving there he leaves Baruti +after a while and proceeds to Tower of London! He says that returning to +station at 2 P.M. he found boat had gone. He then went to Gray, Dawes & +Co., shipping agents, and is discouraged to find that the matter cannot +be mended. Baruti found deserted in Fenchurch Station, very hungry and +cold. Colonel J. A. Grant finds him and brings him to me. + +_January 21st._--Dispatch Mr. Bonny by rail to Plymouth to overtake a +steamer bound for India and instruct him to debark at Suez with boy and +await me. + +Left London at 8.5 P.M. for Egypt. Quite a crowd collected to take a +final shake of the hands and to bid me a kindly "God speed." + +----- + [A] No. 2 clashes with No. 3 somewhat. Khartoum and the + Soudan are not synonymous terms. To withdraw the + garrison of Khartoum is an easy task, to evacuate the + Soudan is an impossibility for a single person. + + [B] This is the only clearly worded despatch that I have + been able to find in the Blue Book of the period. + + [C] This route would be through Masai Land. + + [D] See Appendix for full statement of Receipts and + Expenditure. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +EGYPT AND ZANZIBAR. + + + Surgeon T. H. Parke--Views of Sir Evelyn Baring, Nubar Pasha, + Professor Schweinfurth and Dr. Junker on the Emin Relief + Expedition--Details relating to Emin Pasha and his Province--General + Grenfell and the ammunition--Breakfast with Khedive Tewfik: message to + Emin Pasha--Departure for Zanzibar--Description of Mombasa + town--Visit to the Sultan of Zanzibar--Letter to Emin Pasha sent by + messenger through Uganda--Arrangements with Tippu-Tib--Emin Pasha's + Ivory--Mr. Mackenzie, Sir John Pender and Sir James Anderson's + assistance to the Relief Expedition. + +_January 27th, 1887._--Arrived at Alexandria 6 A.M. Surgeon T. H. Parke +of the A.M.D. came to my hotel and applied for the position of surgeon to +the Expedition. It was the one vacancy not yet filled to my satisfaction. +I considered it a Godsend, though I appeared distant, as I had had two +most unpleasant experiences with medical men, both of whom were +crotchetty, and inconsistent in England. An extremely handsome young +gentleman--diffident somewhat--but very prepossessing. To try if he were +in earnest I said, "If you care to follow me to Cairo, I will talk +further with you. I have not the time to argue with you here." + +Left Alexandria at 10 A.M. for Cairo. At the station I met Sir Evelyn +Baring, whom I had read of in Gordon's journals. We drove to Sir Evelyn's +house and was told in his straightforward and clearest manner that there +was a hitch somewhere. The Khedive and Nubar Pasha, the Prime Minister, +were doubtful as to the wisdom of the Congo route. Professor Schweinfurth +and Dr. Junker had both been struck with consternation, and by their +manner had expressed that the idea was absurd. + +"Well, Sir Evelyn," I said, "do you not think that there are as clever +men in England as Messrs. Schweinfurth and Junker? On the Relief +Committee we have Colonel James Augustus Grant--companion of Speke. +Colonel Sir Francis de Winton, late Administrator General of the Congo, +Colonel Sir Lewis Pelly--late Political Agent at Zanzibar, the Honourable +Guy Dawnay of the War Office, Sir John Kirk--late Consul-General at +Zanzibar, the Rev. Horace Waller and several other distinguished and +level-headed men. Nothing has been settled without the concurrence and +assent of the Foreign Office. We have considered everything, and I have +come thus far resolved to carry the project out as the committee and +myself have agreed." + +[Illustration: SURGEON PARKE, A. M. D.] + +And then I gave Sir Evelyn the pros and cons of the routes, which +satisfied him. We then drove to the Prime Minister, Nubar Pasha, and the +same explanations had to be entered into with him. Nubar, with a kindly +benevolent smile, deferred to Sir Evelyn's superior judgment. Nubar +assented to the wisdom and discretion of the change, and as a reward I +was invited to breakfast for the morrow. + +[Illustration: NUBAR PASHA.] + +_January 28th_, Cairo.--I breakfasted with Nubar Pasha. He introduced me +to Mason Bey--the circumnavigator of Lake Albert in 1877, Madame Nubar +and three daughters, Tigrane Pasha, his son-in-law, Mr. Fane, formerly +Secretary of Legation at Brussels. During breakfast Nubar Pasha conversed +upon many things, principally Egypt, Soudan, Africa and Gordon. Of Gordon +he is clearly no admirer. He accredits the loss of the Soudan to him. His +views of Baker were that he was a fighter--an eager pioneer--a man of +great power. + +Showed map to Nubar after breakfast. He examined the various routes +carefully, and was convinced the Congo route was the best. He proposes to +write instructions to Emin to return to Egypt on the ground that Egypt +cannot afford to retain the Soudan under present circumstances. He +permits us the use of the Egyptian Flag as the banner of the Expedition. +He says he would like to see Emin return with as much ivory as possible +and bringing his Makrakas with him. Should any ivory be brought out he +will lay claim to some of the money on behalf of the Egyptian +Government--because of the £10,000 furnished by it. Uniforms are being +ordered for Emin Pasha and principal officers, for which the Relief Fund +will have to pay. Rank and pay due to each officer assured. + +I saw Schweinfurth and Junker, who have been considered experts here, and +I have had a long and interesting conversation, the pith of which I here +embody. + +Schweinfurth and Junker, it seems, had formed the curious idea that +because the Expedition was to be armed with several hundred Remingtons +and a machine gun of the latest invention, it was to be an offensive +force conducted after strict military rules. + +If they had reflected at all the very title of the Expedition ought to +have warned them that they were astray; the character of the people who +subscribed the major portion of the fund ought to have still more assured +them that their conception of the Expedition was wide of the mark. It is +the relief of Emin Pasha that is the object of the Expedition, the said +relief consisting of ammunition in sufficient quantity to enable him to +withdraw from his dangerous position in Central Africa in safety, or to +hold his own if he decides to do so for such length of time as he may see +fit. Considering the quality of the escort, being mainly Zanzibaris or +freed slaves, it would be rash to expect too much from them. It is +already known in Zanzibar that Uganda is hostile, that Mwanga massacred +some sixty of the followers of Bishop Hannington, that the Masai route +has its dangers, that Karagwé is tributary to Mwanga, that the Wahha are +numerous and aggressive, that Ruanda has never yet been penetrated, that +beyond a certain line whether on the Masai route or the Karagwé route +there is certain danger; and no matter with what cheerfulness they would +assert at Zanzibar their readiness to defy all and every belligerent, +African travellers remember how weak they are proved to be when in actual +presence of danger. Assuming, however, that this band of 600 Zanzibaris +were faithful, consider their inexperience of these new rifles, their +wild, aimless, harmless firing, their want of discipline and tone, their +disposition to be horrified at sight of the effects of fighting--remember +that in reality they are only porters and do not pretend to be +warriors--and you will see how very unequal such men are to the duties of +defending munitions of war in the face of an enemy. It was only by +stratagem that I secured their services for the desperate work of +discovering the issue of the great river along which we had travelled +with Tippu-Tib, when that now famous Arab deserted me in mid-Africa. It +was only that there were no other means of escape that enabled me with +their help to obtain a quiet retreat from savage Ituru. In many other +instances they proved that when menaced with instant death they could be +utilized to assist in the preservation of their own lives; but to expect +them to march faithfully forward to court the dangers of fighting with +the seductions of Unyamwezi and Zanzibar in their rear would be too much. +In this Expedition we cannot turn aside as formerly in presence of a +pronounced hostility and seek more peaceful countries; but our objective +point must be reached, and risk must be run, and the ammunition must be +deposited at the feet of Emin Pasha. Therefore to arm these people with +Remingtons or machine guns is not enough--you must cut off their means of +retreat, allow no avenue of escape--then they will stand together like +men, and we may expect the object of the Expedition to be attained, even +if we have now and again to meet bows and spears or guns. + +Regarding Emin Pasha my information is various. + +From Dr. Junker I learn that Emin Pasha is tall,[E] thin and exceedingly +short-sighted; that he is a great linguist, Turkish, Arabic, German, +French, Italian and English being familiar to him; to these languages may +be added a few of the African dialects. He does not seem to have +impressed Junker with his fighting qualities, though as an administrator, +he is sagacious, tactful and prudent. His long isolation seems to have +discouraged him. He says, "Egypt does not care for us and has forgotten +us; Europe takes no interest in what we do." He is German by birth, and +is about forty-seven years old. + +His force is distributed among eight stations, from 200 to 300 men in +each, say about 1,800 in all. The garrisons of the four northernmost +stations were discontented and mutinous at last accounts. They answered +Emin's advice to consolidate with reproaches; his suggestions that they +should all withdraw from the equatorial province _via_ Zanzibar, were +responded to by accusations that he intended only to sell them to +Zanzibar as slaves. + +Junker cannot give an exact figure of the force itself, or of the +Egyptians or clerks or Dongolese with Emin, but being questioned closely +as to details replied that the approximate number of those likely to +return with the Expedition would be as follows:-- + +White Egyptian Officers, 10; non-commissioned (black), 15; white clerks +(Copts), 20; blacks from Dongola, Wady Halfa, etc., 300, =men 345, +White-women, 22; blackwomen, 137, =women 159, children of officers, 40; +soldiers' children, 60=children 100=Total 604. + +[Illustration: THE KHEDIVE TEWFIK.] + +Besides these the native troops on perceiving a general withdrawal, may +also desire to return with their friends and comrades to Egypt. It is +impossible to state what may be the effect on their minds of the +appearance of the Relief Expedition. The decision of Emin Pasha, to +remain or withdraw, will probably influence the majority. + +I expect my men from Wady Halfa to be here this afternoon. They will be +armed, equipped and rationed at the Citadel, and on Thursday will +accompany me to Suez. The _Navarino_ is supposed to arrive at Suez the +day following, when we will embark and be off. + +Received telegrams from London. Reports from a well-known person at Cairo +has reached newspapers that Emin Pasha had fought his way through Uganda +after some desperate struggles, and that the Egyptian Government had +placed difficulty in way of Expedition. Replied that such facts were +unknown in Cairo. + +_February 1st._--Saw Sir Evelyn Baring at 10.45 A.M. Accompanied him to +Khedive Tewfik. His Highness is most amiable and good-looking. Fine +palace within, abundance of room, a host of attendants, &c. Am invited to +breakfast with Khedive at noon to-morrow. + +Taken later by Sir Evelyn to General Grenfell's office respecting +suggestion made to me last night, at General Stephenson's by Valentine +Baker Pasha, that I must assure myself that the Remington ammunition +furnished by Egyptian Government was sound, as his experience of it was +that 50 per cent. was bad. "You must think then" said he, "if the +ammunition is so poor already what it will be about a year hence when you +meet Emin, after humidity of tropics." General Grenfell said he had +already tested the ammunition, and would make another trial, since +Valentine Baker Pasha entertained such an opinion of it. + +_February 2nd._--Breakfast with Khedive Tewfik. He protests his +patriotism, and loves his country. He is certainly most unaffected and +genial. + +Before leaving Khedive, the following Firman or High Order, was given to +me open with the English translation. + + Translation. + +_Copy of a High Arabic Order to Emin Pasha, dated 8th, Gamad Awal 1304, +(1st February, 1887. No. 3)._ + +"We have already thanked you and your officers for the plucky and +successful defence of the Egyptian Equatorial provinces entrusted to +your charge, and for the firmness you have shown with your +fellow-officers under your command. + +And we therefore have rewarded you in raising your rank to that of Lewa +Pasha (Brigadier-General). We have also approved the ranks you thought +necessary to give to the officers under your charge. As I have already +written to you on the 29 November, 1886, No. 31, and it must have reached +you with other documents sent by His Excellency Nubar Pasha, President of +the Council of Ministers. + +And, since it is our sincerest desire to relieve you with your officers +and soldiers from the difficult position you are in, our Government have +made up their mind in the manner by which you may be relieved with +officers and soldiers from your troubles. + +And as a mission for the relief has been formed under the command of Mr. +Stanley, the famous and experienced African Explorer, whose reputation is +well known throughout the world; and as he intends to set out on his +Expedition with all the necessary provisions for you so that he may bring +you here with officers and men to Cairo, by the route which Mr. Stanley +may think proper to take. Consequently we have issued this High Order to +you, and it is sent to you by the hand of Mr. Stanley to let you know +what has been done, and as soon as it will reach you, I charge you to +convey my best wishes to the officers and men--and you are at full +liberty with regard to your leaving for Cairo or your stay there with +officers and men. + +Our Government has given a decision for paying your salaries with that of +the officers and men. + +Those who wish to stay there from the officers and men they may do it on +their own responsibility, and they may not expect any assistance from the +Government. + +Try to understand the contents well, and make it well-known to all the +officers and men, that they may be aware of what they are going to do. + + (Signed) Mehemet Tewfik." + +In the evening Tigrane Pasha brought to me Nubar Pasha's--the Prime +Minister--letter of recall to Emin. It was read to me and then sealed. + +We stand thus, then; Junker does not think Emin will abandon the +Province; the English subscribers to the fund hope he will not, but +express nothing; they leave it to Emin to decide; the English Government +would prefer that he would retire, as his Province under present +circumstances is almost inaccessible, and certainly he, so far removed, +is a cause of anxiety. The Khedive sends the above order for Emin to +accept of our escort, but says, "You may do as you please. If you decline +our proffered aid you are not to expect further assistance from the +Government." Nubar Pasha's letter conveys the wishes of the Egyptian +Government which are in accordance with those of the English Government, +as expressed by Sir Evelyn Baring. + +_February 3rd._--Left Cairo for Suez. At the station to wish me success +were Sir Evelyn and Lady Baring, Generals Stephenson, Grenfell, Valentine +Baker, Abbaté Pasha, Professor Schweinfurth and Dr. Junker. The latter +and sixty-one soldiers (Soudanese) from Wady Haifa accompanied me. At +Zagazig, Surgeon T. H. Parke, now an enrolled member of the Expedition, +joined me. At Ismailia our party were increased by Giegler Pasha. At Suez +met Mr. James S. Jameson, the naturalist of the Expedition. Mr. Bonny of +the Hospital Staff Corps, and Baruti, will arrive to-morrow per _Garonne_ +of the Orient line. + +_February 6th._--Breakfasted with Captain Beyts, Agent of the British +India Steam Navigation Company. At 2 P.M. Capt. Beyts embarked with us on +board _Rob Roy_, a new steamer just built for him, and we steamed out to +the Suez harbour where the _Navarino_ from London is at anchor. At 5 +P.M., after friendly wishes from Captain Beyts and my good friend Dr. +Junker, to whom I had become greatly attached for the real worth in him, +the _Navarino_ sailed for Aden. + +_February 8th._--Weather grows warm. Ther. Fah. 74° at 8 A.M. in +Captain's cabin. My European servant asked me if this was the Red Sea +through which we were sailing. "Yes," I replied. "Well, sir, it looks +more like a black sea than a red one," was his profound remark. + +_February 12th._--Reached Aden at 2 A.M. We now change steamers. +_Navarino_ proceeds to Bombay. The B.I.S.N. steamer _Oriental_ takes us +to Zanzibar. On board the latter steamer we met Major Barttelot. Cabled +to Zanzibar following:-- + + "Mackenzie, Zanzibar. + + "Your telegram very gratifying. Please engage twenty young lads as + officers' servants at lower rate than men. We leave to-day with + eight Europeans, sixty-one Soudanese, two Syrians, thirteen + Somalis. Provision transport steamer accordingly." + +The first-class passengers include self, Barttelot, Stairs, Jephson, +Nelson, Parke, Bonny, Count Pfeil, and two German companions bound for +Rufiji River. + +_February 19th._--Arrived off Lamu at 3 P.M. Soon after S.S. _Baghdad_ +came in with Dr. Lenz, the Austrian traveller, who had started to proceed +to Emin Bey, but failing, came across to Zanzibar instead. He is on his +way home. Having failed in his purpose, he will blame Africa and abuse +the Congo especially. It is natural with all classes to shift the blame +on others, and I feel assured Lenz will be no exception. + +_February 20th._--Arrived at Mombasa. Was told that a great battle had +been fought lately between the Gallas and Somalis. The former are for the +Germans, the latter are declared enemies to them. We also hear that +Portugal has declared war against Zanzibar, or something like it. + +Best place for commercial depot is on right hand of northern entrance, +first point within harbour; it is bluffy, dips sheer down into deep +water, with timber floated along base of bluff, and long-armed derricks +on edge of bluff, steamers might be unloaded and loaded with ease. +Cocoa-nut palms abundant. Good view of sea from it. If Mombasa becomes an +English port--as I hope it will shortly--the best position of new town +would be along face of bluff fronting seaward on island just where old +Portuguese port is; a light railway and some draught mules would land on +train all goods from harbour. + +_February 22nd._--Arrived at Zanzibar. Acting Consul-General Holmwood +warmly proffered hospitality. + +Instructed officers to proceed on board our transport, B.I.S.N. Co. +_Madura_, and to take charge of Somalis and Soudanese, and Mackenzie to +disembark forty donkeys and saddles from _Madura_--route being changed +there was no need for so many animals. + +Received compliments from the Sultan of Zanzibar; visits from the famous +Tippu-Tib, Jaffar, son of Tarya Topan, his agent, and Kanji the Vakeel of +Tarya. + +Zanzibar is somewhat changed during my eight years' absence. There is a +telegraphic cable, a tall clock-tower, a new Sultan's palace, very lofty +and conspicuous, with wide verandahs. The Custom House has been enlarged. +General Lloyd Mathews has new barracks for his Military Police; the +promenade to Fiddler's grave has been expanded into a broad carriage-way, +which extends to Sultan's house beyond Mbwenni. There are horses and +carriages, and steam-rollers, and lamp-posts, at convenient distances, +serve to bear oil-lamps to light the road when His Highness returns to +city from a country jaunt. + +There are six German war-vessels in port, under Admiral Knorr, H.B.M.S. +_Turquoise_ and _Reindeer_, ten merchant steamers, and a few score of +Arab dhows, Baggalas, Kanjehs, and boats. + +_February 23rd._--Paid what is called a State visit to His Highness. As a +special mark of honour the troops, under stout General Lloyd Mathews, +were drawn up in two lines, about 300 yards in length. A tolerable +military band saluted us with martial strains, while several hundreds of +the population were banked behind the soldiers. The most frequent words I +heard as I passed through with Consul Holmwood were: "Ndio huyu"--"Yes, +it is he!" by which I gathered that scattered among the crowds must have +been a large number of my old followers, pointing me out to their +friends. + +State visits are nearly always alike. The "Present arms!" by General +Mathews, the martial strains, the large groups of the superior Arabs at +the hall porch, the ascent up the lofty flights of stairs--the Sultan at +the head of the stairs--the grave bow, the warm clasp, the salutation +word, the courteous wave of the hand to enter, the slow march towards the +throne--another ceremonious inclination all round--the Prince taking his +seat, which intimates we may follow suit, the refreshments of sherbet +after coffee, and a few remarks about Europe, and our mutual healths. +Then the ceremonious departure, again the strains of music,--Mathews' +sonorous voice at "Present arms!" and we retire from the scene to doff +our London dress-suits, and pack them up with camphor to preserve them +from moths, until we return from years of travel "Through the Dark +Continent" and from "Darkest Africa." + +In the afternoon, paid the business visit, first presenting the following +letter:-- + + "To His Highness Seyyid Barghash bin Said, + "Sultan of Zanzibar. + + "Burlington Hotel, + "Old Burlington Street, London, W. + "_28th January, 1887._ + + "Your Highness, + + "I cannot allow another mail to pass without writing to express to + you my grateful appreciation of the kindly response you made to my + telegram in regard to assisting the Expedition, which proceeds + under the leadership of Mr. H. M. Stanley to relieve Emin Pasha. + The cordiality with which you instructed your officers to assist in + selecting the best men available is indeed a most important service + to the Expedition, and I have reason to know that it has given + great satisfaction in England. Mr. Stanley will reach Zanzibar in + about four weeks. He is full of enthusiasm as the leader of his + interesting Expedition, and his chief reasons for selecting the + Congo route are that he may be able to convey the men your Highness + has so kindly assisted him in procuring without fatigue or risk by + sea to the Congo, and up the river in boats in comparative comfort, + and they will arrive within 350 miles of their destination fresh + and vigorous instead of being worn out and jaded by the fatigue of + a long march inland. His services will be entirely devoted to the + Expedition during its progress, and he cannot deviate from its + course to perform service for the Congo State. + + "It is probable also he will return by the east coast land route, + and as I know him to be deeply interested in your Highness's + prosperity and welfare, I am sure if he can render any service to + Your Highness during his progress back to the coast, he will do so + most heartily. I have had many conversations with him, and have + always found him most friendly to Your Highness's interests, and I + believe also the confidence of our mutual good friend. I pray you + in these circumstances to communicate freely with Mr. Stanley on + all points--as freely as if I had the honour of being there to + receive the communications myself. + + "With the repeated assurance of my hearty sympathy in all the + affairs that concern Your Highness's interests. + + "I remain, + "Your very obedient servant and friend, + "W. Mackinnon." + +We then entered heartily into our business; how absolutely necessary it +was that he should promptly enter into an agreement with the English +within the limits assigned by Anglo-German treaty. It would take too long +to describe the details of the conversation, but I obtained from him the +answer needed. + + "Please God we shall agree. When you have got the papers ready we + shall read and sign without further delay and the matter will be + over." + +At night, wrote the following letter to Emin Pasha, for transmission +to-morrow by couriers overland, who will travel through Uganda into +Unyoro secretly. + + "To His Excellency Emin Pasha, + "Governor of the Equatorial Provinces. + + "H. B. Majesty's Consulate, Zanzibar. + "_February 23rd, 1887._ + + "Dear Sir, + + "I have the honour to inform you that the Government of His + Highness the Khedive of Egypt, upon the receipt of your urgent + letters soliciting aid and instructions, have seen fit to depute me + to equip an Expedition to proceed to Wadelai to convey such aid as + they think you require, and to assist you in other ways agreeably + with the written instructions which have been delivered to me for + you. + + "Having been pretty accurately informed of the nature of your + necessities from the perusal of your letters to the Egyptian + Government, the Expedition has been equipped in such a manner as + may be supposed to meet all your wants. As you will gather from the + letters of His Highness and the Prime Minister of Egypt to you, and + which I bring with me, all that could possibly be done to satisfy + your needs has been done most heartily. From the translation of the + letters delivered to me, I perceive that they will give you immense + satisfaction. Over sixty soldiers from Wady Halfa have been + detailed to accompany me in order that they may be able to + encourage the soldiers under your command, and confirm the letters. + We also march under the Egyptian standard. + + "The Expedition includes 600 Zanzibari natives, and probably as + many Arab followers from Central Africa. + + "We sail to-morrow from Zanzibar to the Congo, and by the 18th June + next we hope to be at the head of navigation on the Upper Congo. + From the point where we debark to the southern end of Lake Albert + is a distance of 320 miles in a straight line, say 500 miles by + road, which will probably occupy us fifty days to march to the + south-western or southern end, in the neighbourhood of Kavalli. + + "If your steamers are in that neighbourhood, you will be able to + leave word perhaps at Kavalli, or in its neighbourhood, informing + me of your whereabouts. + + "The reasons which have obliged me to adopt this route for the + conveyance of your stores are various, but principally political. I + am also impressed with the greater security of that route and the + greater certainty of success attending the venture with less + trouble to the Expedition and less annoyance to the natives. Mwanga + is a formidable opponent to the south and south-east. The Wakedi + and other warlike natives to the eastward of Fatiko oppose a + serious obstacle, the natives of Kishakka and Ruanda have never + permitted strangers to enter their country. En route I do not + anticipate much trouble, because there are no powerful chiefs in + the Congo basin capable of interrupting our march. + + "Besides abundance of ammunition for your needs, official letters + from the Egyptian Government, a heavy mail from your numerous + friends and admirers, I bring with me personal equipments for + yourself and officers suitable to the rank of each. + + "Trusting that I shall have the satisfaction of finding you well + and safe, and that nothing will induce you to rashly venture your + life and liberty in the neighbourhood of Uganda, without the ample + means of causing yourself and men to be respected which I am + bringing to you, + + "I beg you to believe me, + "Yours very faithfully, + "(Signed) Henry M. Stanley." + +_February 24th and 25th._--On arriving at Zanzibar, I found our Agent, +Mr. Edmund Mackenzie, had managed everything so well that the Expedition +was almost ready for embarkation. The steamer _Madura_, of the British +India Steam Navigation Company, was in harbour, provisioned and watered +for the voyage. The goods for barter, and transport animals, were on +board. There were a few things to be done, however--such as arranging +with the famous Tippu-Tib about our line of conduct towards one another. +Tippu-Tib is a much greater man to-day than he was in the year 1877, when +he escorted my caravan, preliminary to our descent down the Congo. He has +invested his hard-earned fortune in guns and powder. Adventurous Arabs +have flocked to his standard, until he is now an uncrowned king of the +region between Stanley Falls and Tanganika Lake, commanding many +thousands of men inured to fighting and wild Equatorial life. If I +discovered hostile intentions, my idea was to give him a wide berth; for +the ammunition I had to convey to Emin Pasha, if captured and employed by +him, would endanger the existence of the infant State of the Congo, and +imperil all our hopes. Between Tippu-Tib and Mwanga, King of Uganda, +there was only a choice of the frying-pan and the fire. Tippu-Tib was the +Zubehr of the Congo Basin--just as formidable if made an enemy, as the +latter would have been at the head of his slaves. Between myself and +Gordon there had to be a difference in dealing with our respective +Zubehrs; mine had no animus against me personally; my hands were free, +and my movements unfettered. Therefore, with due caution, I sounded +Tippu-Tib on the first day, and found him fully prepared for any +eventuality--to fight me, or be employed by me. I chose the latter, and +we proceeded to business. His aid was not required to enable me to reach +Emin Pasha, or to show the road. There are four good roads to Wadelai +from the Congo; one of them was in Tippu-Tib's power, the remaining three +are clear of him and his myriads. But Dr. Junker informed me that Emin +Pasha possessed about 75 tons of ivory. So much ivory would amount to +£60,000, at 8_s_. per lb. The subscription of Egypt to the Emin Pasha +Fund is large for her depressed finance. In this quantity of ivory we had +a possible means of recouping her Treasury--with a large sum left towards +defraying expenses, and perhaps leaving a handsome present for the +Zanzibari survivors. + +Why not attempt the carriage of this ivory to the Congo? Accordingly, I +wished to engage Tippu-Tib and his people to assist me in conveying the +ammunition to Emin Pasha, and on return to carry this ivory. After a good +deal of bargaining I entered into a contract with him, by which he agreed +to supply 600 carriers at £6 per loaded head--each round trip from +Stanley Falls to Lake Albert and back. Thus, if each carrier carries 70 +lbs. weight of ivory, one round trip will bring to the Fund £13,200 nett +at Stanley Falls. + +On the conclusion of this contract, which was entered into in presence of +the British Consul-General, I broached another subject in the name of His +Majesty King Leopold with Tippu-Tib. Stanley Falls station was +established by me in December 1883. Various Europeans have since +commanded this station, and Mr. Binnie and Lieut. Wester of the Swedish +Army had succeeded in making it a well-ordered and presentable station. +Captain Deane, his successor, quarrelled with the Arabs, and at his +forced departure from the scene set fire to the station. The object for +which the station was established was the prevention of the Arabs from +pursuing their devastating career below the Falls, not so much by force +as by tact, or rather the happy combination of both. By the retreat of +the officers of the State from Stanley Falls, the floodgates were opened +and the Arabs pressed down river. Tippu-Tib being of course the guiding +spirit of the Arabs west of Tanganika Lake, it was advisable to see how +far his aid might be secured to check this stream of Arabs from +destroying the country. After the interchange of messages by cable with +Brussels--on the second day of my stay at Zanzibar--I signed an +engagement with Tippu-Tib by which he was appointed Governor of Stanley +Falls at a regular salary, paid monthly at Zanzibar, into the British +Consul-General's hands. His duties will be principally to defend Stanley +Falls in the name of the State against all Arabs and natives. The flag of +the station will be that of the State. At all hazards he is to defeat and +capture all persons raiding territory for slaves, and to disperse all +bodies of men who may be justly suspected of violent designs. He is to +abstain from all slave traffic below the Falls himself, and to prevent +all in his command trading in slaves. In order to ensure a faithful +performance of his engagement with the State, an European officer is to +be appointed Resident at the Falls. On the breach of any article in the +contract being reported, the salary is to cease. + +Meantime, while I was engaged with these negotiations, Mr. Mackenzie had +paid four months' advance pay--$12,415--to 620 men and boys enlisted in +the Relief Expedition, and as fast as each batch of fifty men was +satisfactorily paid, a barge was hauled alongside and the men were duly +embarked, and a steam launch towed the barge to the transport. By 5 P.M. +all hands were aboard, and the steamer moved off to a more distant +anchorage. By midnight Tippu-Tib and his people and every person +connected with the Expedition was on board, and at daybreak next day, the +25th February, the anchor was lifted, and we steamed away towards the +Cape of Good Hope. + +So far there had not been a hitch in any arrangement. Difficulties had +been smoothed as if by magic. Everybody had shown the utmost sympathy, +and been prompt with the assistance required. The officers of the +Expedition were kept fully employed from morning to evening at laborious +tasks connected with the repacking of the ammunition for Emin Pasha's +force. + +Before concluding these entries, I ought to mention the liberal +assistance rendered to the Relief Expedition by Sir John Pender, +K.C.M.G., and the Eastern Telegraph Company. All my telegrams from Egypt, +Aden and Zanzibar, amounting in the aggregate to several hundred words +were despatched free, and as each word from Zanzibar to Europe ordinarily +costs eight shillings per word, some idea of the pecuniary value of the +favour conferred may be obtained. On my return from Africa this great +privilege was again granted, and as I received a score of cablegrams per +day for several days, and answers were expected, I should speedily have +paid dearly for the fortunate rescue of Emin Pasha, and most probably my +stirring career had ended in the Bankruptcy Court had not Sir John Pender +and Sir James Anderson quickly reassured me. Among the contributors to +the Relief Fund to a very generous amount I therefore may fairly place +the names of Sir John Pender and Sir James Anderson in behalf of the +Eastern Telegraph Company. I should also state that they were prepared to +lend me the Telegraph steamer at Zanzibar to convey my force of carriers +and soldiers to the Congo had there been any difficulty in the way of +engaging the B.I.S.N. Company's s.s. _Madura_. + +----- + [E] We consequently bade the tailor make long pantaloons, + and they were quite six inches too long. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +BY SEA TO THE CONGO RIVER. + + + The Sultan of Zanzibar--Tippu-Tib and Stanley Falls--On board s.s. + _Madura_--"Shindy" between the Zanzibaris and Soudanese--Sketches + of my various officers--Tippu-Tib and Cape Town--Arrival at the + mouth of the Congo River--Start up the Congo--Visit from two of the + Executive Committee of the Congo State--Unpleasant thoughts. + +The following private letter to a friend will explain some things of +general interest:-- + + SS. _Madura_, March 9th, 1887, + Near Cape of Good Hope. + +My dear ----, + +Apart from the Press letters which are to be published for the benefit of +the Relief Fund, and which will contain all that the public ought to know +just now, I shall have somewhat to say to you and other friends. + +The Sultan of Zanzibar received me with unusual kindness, much of which I +owe to the introduction of Mr. William Mackinnon and Sir John Kirk. He +presented me with a fine sword, a shirazi blade I should say, richly +mounted with gold, and a magnificent diamond ring, which quite makes +Tippu-Tib's eyes water. With the sword is the golden belt of His +Highness, the clasp of which bears his name in Arabic. It will be useful +as a sign, if I come before Arabs, of the good understanding between the +Prince and myself; and if I reach the Egyptian officers, some of whom are +probably illiterate, they must accept the sword as a token that we are +not traders. + +You will have seen by the papers that I have taken with me sixty-one +soldiers--Soudanese. My object has been to enable them to speak for me +to the Soudanese of Equatoria. The Egyptians may affect to disbelieve +firmans and the writing of Nubar, in which case these Soudanese will be +pushed forward as living witnesses of my commission. + +[Illustration: PORTRAIT OF TIPPU-TIB.] + +I have settled several little commissions at Zanzibar satisfactorily. One +was to get the Sultan to sign the concessions which Mackinnon tried to +obtain a long time ago. As the Germans have magnificent territory east of +Zanzibar, it was but fair that England should have some portion for the +protection she has accorded to Zanzibar since 1841. The Germans appeared +to have recognized this, as you may see by the late Anglo-German +Agreement. France had already obtained an immense area in West Africa. +All the world had agreed to constitute the domain of King Leopold, on +which he had spent a million sterling, as the Independent State of the +Congo. Portugal, which is a chronic grumbler, and does little, and that +little in a high-handed, illiberal manner, has also been graciously +considered by the European Powers; but England, which had sent out her +explorers, Livingstone, Burton, Speke, Grant, Baker, Keith Johnston, +Thomson, Elton, &c., had obtained nothing, and probably no people had +taken such interest in the Dark Continent, or had undergone such +sacrifices in behalf of the aborigines, as the English. Her cruisers for +the last twenty years had policed the ocean along the coast to suppress +slave-catching; her missions were twenty-two in number, settled between +East and West Africa. This concession that we wished to obtain embraced a +portion of the East African coast, of which Mombasa and Melindi were the +principal towns. For eight years, to my knowledge, the matter had been +placed before His Highness, but the Sultan's signature was difficult to +obtain. + +Arriving at Zanzibar, I saw the Sultan was aging, and that he had not +long to live.[F] Englishmen could not invest money in the reserved +"sphere of influence" until some such concessions were signed. + +"Please God," said the Sultan, "we shall agree; there will be no further +doubt about the matter." But his political anxieties are wearing him +fast, and unless this matter is soon completed it will be too late. + +The other affair was with Tippu-Tib. He had actually in his possession +three Krupp shells, unloaded, which he had brought with him from Stanley +Falls, on the Upper Congo, to Zanzibar, to exhibit to his friends as the +kind of missiles which the Belgians pelted his settlements with--and he +was exceedingly wroth, and nourished a deep scheme of retaliation. It +took me some time to quiet his spasms of resentment. People very furious +must be allowed time to vent their anger. When he had poured out his +indignation some time, I quietly asked him if he had finished, saying, in +a bland way, that I knew well how great and powerful he was, etc., and I +told him that it was scarcely fair to blame all the Europeans and King +Leopold because an officer at Stanley Falls had been pleased to heave +Krupp shells at his settlements; that this trouble had been caused by the +excess of zeal of one man in defending a slave woman who had sought his +protection, in the same way that Rashid, his nephew, had been carried +away by the fury of youth to defend his rights. The Governor of the Congo +State was absent nearly 1500 miles down the river, and Tippu-Tib, the +owner of the settlements, was several hundred miles eastward on the way +to Zanzibar. Now I look upon this affair as the result of a match between +one young white man and a young Arab. The gray heads are absent who would +have settled the trouble without fighting: youths are always "on their +muscle," you know. + +"Do you know," I continued, "that that station has given us a great deal +of trouble. We sent Amelot, you remember. Well, he just left the station +without orders, and died somewhere near Nyangwé; then the next, Gleerup, +a Swede, followed suit, and travelled across Africa instead; then we sent +Deane, and for a change he would have war with the Arabs. King Leopold is +not to blame for all this. It is a difficult thing to get men who are +always wise, and understand thoroughly what their orders are. If King +Leopold had sent Deane to fight you, he would not have sent him with +thirty men, you may be sure." + +Now, look here. He proposes that you try your hand at governing that +station. He will pay you every month what he would pay an European +officer. There are certain little conditions that you must comply with +before you become Governor. + +Tippu-Tib opened his eyes and snapped them rapidly, as his custom is, and +asked, "Me?" + +"Yes, you. You like money; I offer you money. You have a grudge against +white men being there. Well, if you do your work rightly there will be no +need for any white men, except him whom we shall have to place under you, +to see that the conditions are not broken." + +"Well, what are they?" + +"You must hoist the flag of the State. You must allow a Resident to be +with you, who will write your reports to the King. You must neither trade +in slaves, nor allow anybody else to trade in them below Stanley Falls. +Nor must there be any slave-catching; you understand. Such trade as you +make in ivory, gums, rubber, cattle, and anything else, you may do as +much as you please. But there is to be no pillaging native property of +any description whatever below your station. A monthly allowance will be +paid into the hands of your Agent at Zanzibar. Don't answer right away. +Go and discuss it with your friends, and think of what I offer you. My +ship sails on the third day. Give me your answer to-morrow." + +A favourable answer was given, a proper agreement was drawn up before the +Consul-General, and we both signed. + +I made another agreement with him about the engagement of carriers to +carry ammunition to Lake Albert from the Congo. If there is no ivory I +shall be indebted to Tippu-Tib for the sum of £3,600. But there must be +some, as both Emin Pasha and Dr. Junker declare there is a large store of +it. At the same time I shall not risk the Expedition for the sake of the +ivory. + +In consideration of these services which Tippu-Tib has solemnly +contracted to perform, I permitted him free passage for himself and +ninety-six of his kinsmen from Zanzibar to the Congo, with board +included. I also undertook the responsibility of conveying the entire +party safely to Stanley Falls, thus incurring not a small expense, but +which if faithfully performed will be amply paid for by the services +mentioned in the articles of agreement. These negotiations with Tippu-Tib +also ensure for us a peaceful march from the Congo through his +territory, a thing that would have been by no means possible without +him--as his various hordes of raiders will be widely scattered throughout +the region; and it is scarcely likely that we should be allowed to pass +in peace, resenting, as they must naturally do, their late rupture with +Deane. Having bound Tippu-Tib to me I feel somewhat safe against that +constant fear of desertion of the Zanzibaris. No Arab will now persuade +the people to desert, as is their custom when a white man's Expedition +passes near their settlements. Tippu-Tib dare not countenance such +proceedings in this case. + +The _Madura_ is a comfortable steamer. On the _Oriental_ and _Navarino_ +we were uncomfortably crowded. Tween decks abreast of the boilers is +rather a hot place for the people; but we have had agreeable weather, and +the men have preferred to stow themselves in the boats, and among the +donkeys, and on deck, to the baking heat below. + +Two hours from Zanzibar, what is called a "shindy" took place between the +Zanzibaris and Soudanese. For a short time it appeared as though we +should have to return to Zanzibar with many dead and wounded. It rose +from a struggle for room. The Soudanese had been located directly in the +way of the Zanzibaris, who, being ten times more numerous, required +breathing space. They were all professed Moslems, but no one thought of +their religion as they seized upon firewood and pieces of planking to +batter and bruise each other. The battle had raged some time before I +heard of it. As I looked down the hatchway the sight was fearful--blood +freely flowed down a score of faces, and ugly pieces of firewood flew +about very lively. A command could not be heard in that uproar, and some +of us joined in with shillelaghs, directing our attacks upon the +noisiest. It required a mixture of persuasiveness and sharp knocks to +reduce the fractious factions to order, especially with the Soudanese +minority, who are huge fellows. The Soudanese were marched out of their +place and located aft, and the Zanzibaris had all the forward half of +the ship to themselves. After we had wiped the blood and perspiration +away I complimented the officers, especially Jephson, Nelson, and Bonny, +for their share in the fray. They had behaved most gallantly. The result +of the scrimmage is ten broken arms, fifteen serious gashes with spears +on the face and head, and contusions on shoulders and backs not worth +remark, and several abrasions of the lower limbs. + +Surgeon Parke has been very busy vaccinating the entire community on +board ship. Fortunately I had procured a large supply of lymph for this +purpose, because of the harsh experience of the past. + +We also divided the people into seven companies of about ninety men +each. + +I have ordered my Agent to send me 200 loads of various goods to meet the +Expedition at Msalala, south end of Lake Victoria. They will be sent +about October or November, 1887, arriving at Msalala in February or +March, 1888, because if everything proceeds as I should wish, we shall be +somewhere near there not very long after that date. + + * * * * * + +I have been in the company of my officers since I left Aden, and I have +been quietly observing them. I will give you a sketch of them as they +appear to me now. + +Barttelot is a little too eager, and will have to be restrained. There is +abundance of work in him, and this quality would be most lovely if it +were always according to orders. The most valuable man to me would be he +who had Barttelot's spirit and "go" in him, and who could come and ask if +such and such a work ought to be done. Such a course suggests +thoughtfulness and willingness, besides proper respect. + +There is a great deal in Mounteney Jephson, though he was supposed to be +effeminate. He is actually fierce when roused, and his face becomes +dangerously set and fixed. I noted him during the late battle aboard, and +I came near crying out "Bravo, Jephson!" though I had my own stick, "big +as a mast," as the Zanzibaris say, to wield. It was most gallant and +plucky. He will be either made or marred if he is with this Expedition +long enough. + +Captain Nelson is a fine fellow, and without the ghost of a hobby: he is +the same all round, and at all hours. + +Stairs, of the Royal Engineers, is a splendid fellow, painstaking, ready, +thoughtful, and industrious, and is an invaluable addition to our staff. + +Jameson is still the nice fellow we saw; there is not an atom of change +in him. He is sociable and good. + +Bonny is the soldier. He is not initiative. He seems to have been under a +martinet's drill. + + * * * * * + + _March 16th, 1887._ + +At Cape Town, Tippu-Tib, after remarking the prosperity and business stir +of the city, and hearing its history from me, said that he formerly had +thought all white men to be fools. + +"Really," I said; "Why?" + +"That was my opinion." + +"Indeed! and what do you think of them now?" I asked. + +"I think they have something in them, and that they are more enterprising +than Arabs." + +"What makes you think so, particularly now?" + +"Well, myself and kinsmen have been looking at this town, these big ships +and piers, and we have thought how much better all these things appear +compared to Zanzibar, which was captured from the Portuguese before this +town was built, and I have been wondering why we could not have done as +well as you white people. I begin to think you must be very clever." + +"If you have discovered so much, Tippu-Tib, you are on the high road to +discover more. The white men require a deal of study before you can +quite make them out. It is a pity you never went to England for a +visit." + +"I hope to go there before I die." + +"Be faithful to us on this long journey, and I will take you there, and +you will see more things than you can dream of now." + +"Inshallah! if it is the will of Allah we shall go together." + + * * * * * + +On the 18th March the _Madura_ entered the mouth of the Congo River, and +dropped her anchor about 200 yards abreast of the sandy point, called +Banana. + +In a few minutes I was in the presence of Mr. Lafontaine Ferney, the +chief Agent of the Dutch Company, to whom our steamer was consigned. +Through some delay he had not been informed of our intending to arrive as +soon. Everybody professed surprise, as they did not expect us before the +25th, but this fortunate accident was solely due to the captain and the +good steamer. However, I succeeded in making arrangements by which the +Dutch Company's steamer _K. A. Nieman_--so named after a fine young man +of that name, who had lately died at St. Paul de Loanda--would be placed +at my disposal, for the transport to Mataddi of 230 men next day. + +On returning to the ship, I found my officers surrounding two English +traders, connected with the British Congo Company of Banana. They were +saying some unpleasant things about the condition of the State steamers. +"There is a piece of the _Stanley_ on shore now, which will give you an +idea of that steamer. The _Stanley_ is a perfect ruin, we are told. +However, will you leave the Pool? The State has not one steamer in +service. They are all drawn up on the banks for repairs, which will take +months. We don't see how you are to get away from here under six weeks! +Look at that big steamer on the sands! she has just come out from Europe; +the fool of a captain ran her on shore instead of waiting for a pilot. +She has got the sections of a steamer in her hold. The _Heron_ and +_Belgique_, both State steamers, have first, of course, to float that +steamer off. You are in for it nicely, we can tell you." + +Naturally, this news was very discouraging to our officers and two of +them hastened to comfort me with the disastrous news. They were not so +well acquainted with the manners of the "natives" of the Lower Congo as I +was. I only marvelled why they had not been politely requested to +accompany their new aquaintances to the cemetery, in order that they +might have the exquisite gratification of exhibiting the painted +headboards, which record the deaths of many fine young men, as promising +in appearance as they. + +I turned to the Agent of the British Congo, and requested permission to +charter his steamer, the _Albuquerque_. The gentleman graciously acceded. +This assured me transport for 140 men and 60 tons cargo. I then begged +that he and his friend would negotiate for the charter of the large +paddle boat the _Serpa Pinto_. Their good offices were entirely +successful, and before evening I knew that we should leave Banana Point +with 680 men and 160 tons cargo on the next day. The State steamer +_Heron_ I was told would not be able to leave before the 20th. + +On the 19th the steamers _K. A. Kieman_, _Albuquerque_, and _Serpa +Pinto_, departed from Banana Point, and before night had anchored at +Ponta da Lenha. The next day the two former steamers steamed straight up +to Mataddi. The _Serpa Pinto_ hauled into the pier at Boma, to allow me +to send an official intimation of the fact that the new Governor of +Stanley Falls was aboard, and to receive a hurried visit from two of the +Executive Committee charged with the administration of the Congo State. + +We had but time to exchange a few words, but in that short time they +managed to inform me that there was a "famine in the country"; that "the +villages along the road to the Pool were abandoned"; that "the _Stanley_ +was seriously damaged"; that "the Mission steamers _Peace_ and _Henry +Reed_ were in some unknown parts of the Upper Congo"; that "the _En +Avant_ was on shore without machinery or boiler;" that "the _A. I. A._ +was 500 miles above Stanley Pool"; and that "the _Royal_ was perfectly +rotten;" and had not been employed for a year; in fact, that the whole of +the naval stock promised did not exist at all except in the imagination +of the gentlemen of the Bureau at Brussels; and, said one, who seemed to +be the principal of the Executive Committee, with deliberate emphasis: +"The boats were only to assist you if they could be given without +prejudice to the service of the State." + +The gruff voice of the Portuguese captain of the _Serpa Pinto_ ordered +the gentlemen on shore, and we proceeded on our way up the Congo. + +My thoughts were not of the pleasantest. With my flotilla of fifteen +whale boats I might have been independent; but there was an objection to +the Congo route, and therefore that plan was abandoned. We had no sooner +adopted the East Coast route than the Sovereign of the Congo State +invited the Expedition to pass through his territory; the Germans had +murmured, and the French Government protested at the idea of our marching +through East Africa. When it was too late to order the flotilla of whale +boats from Forrest and Son we then accepted the Congo route, after +stipulating for transport up the Lower Congo, for porterage to Stanley +Pool, and the loan of the steamers on the Upper Congo which were now said +to be wrecked, rotten, or without boilers or engines, or scattered +inaccessible. In my ears rang the cry in England: "Hurry up, or you may +be too late!" and singing through my memory were the words of Junker: +"Emin will be lost unless immediate aid be given him;" and Emin's appeal +for help; for, if denied, "we shall perish." + +"Well, the aspect of our work is ominous. It is not my fault, and what we +have to do is simple enough. We have given our promise to strive our +level best. It is no time for regret, but to struggle and "steer right +onward." Every article of our verbal bond, having accepted this +responsibility, we must perform, and it is the manner of this +performance that I now propose to relate. + +I shall not delay the narration to give descriptions of the route +overland to the Pool, or of the Upper Congo and its banks, as these have +been sufficiently treated of in 'Through the Dark Continent,' and 'The +Congo and the Founding of its Free State'; and I now propose to be very +brief with the incidents of our journey to Yambuya, at the head of +navigation on the Aruwimi." + +----- + [F] Seyyid Barghash died six months later. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +TO STANLEY POOL. + + + Details of the journey to Stanley Pool--The Soudanese and the + Somalis--Meeting with Mr. Herbert Ward--Camp at Congo la + Lemba--Kindly entertained by Mr. and Mrs. Richards--Letters from up + river--Letters to the Rev. Mr. Bentley and others for + assistance--Arrival at Mwembi--Necessity of enforcing + discipline--March to Vombo--Incident at Lukungu Station--The + Zanzibaris--Incident between Jephson and Salim at the Inkissi + River--A series of complaints--The Rev. Mr. Bentley and the steamer + _Peace_--We reach Makoko's village--Leopoldville--Difficulties + regarding the use of the Mission steamers--Monsieur Liebrichts sees + Mr. Billington--Visit to Mr. Swinburne at Kinshassa--Orders to and + duties of the officers. + +On the 21st of March the Expedition debarked at the landing-place of the +Portuguese trading-house of Senor Joda Ferrier d'Abren, situate at +Mataddi, at a distance of 108 miles from the Atlantic. As fast as the +steamers were discharged of their passengers and cargo they cast off to +return to the seaport of Banana, or the river port below. + +About noon the Portuguese gunboat _Kacongo_ hove in sight. She brought +Major Barttelot, Mr. Jephson, and a number of Soudanese and Zanzibaris; +and soon after the state steamer _Heron_ brought up the remainder of the +cargo left on board the _Madura_. + +We set up the tents, stored the immense quantity of rice, biscuits, +millet, salt, hay, etc., and bestirred ourselves like men with unlimited +work before us. Every officer distinguished himself--the Zanzibaris +showed by their celerity that they were glad to be on shore. + +Our European party now consisted of Messrs. Barttelot, Stairs, Nelson, +Jephson, Parke, Bonny, who had voyaged with me from Aden, Mr. Walker, an +engineer, who had joined us at the Cape, Mr. Ingham, an ex-Guardsman, +who was our Congo Agent for collection of native carriers, Mr. John Rose +Troup, who had been despatched to superintend native porterage to the +Pool from Manyanga, and a European servant. + +On the following day 171 porters, carrying 7 boxes biscuits = 420 lbs., +157 bags of rice = 10,205 lbs., and beads, departed from Mataddi to +Lukungu as a reserve store for the Expedition on arrival. There were 180 +sacks of 170 lbs. each = 30,600 lbs. besides, ready to follow or precede +us as carriers offered themselves, and which were to be dropped at +various places _en route_, and at the Pool. Couriers were also sent to +the Pool with request to the Commandant to hurry up the repairs of all +steamers. + +On the second day of arrival, Mr. Ingham appeared with 220 carriers, +engaged at a sovereign per load for conveying goods to the Pool. +Lieutenant Stairs practised with the Maxim automatic gun, which fired 330 +shots per minute, to the great admiration of Tippu-Tib and his +followers. + +On the 25th the trumpets sounded in the Soudanese camp at 5.15 A.M. By 6 +o'clock tents were folded, the companies were ranged by their respective +captains, and near each company's stack of goods, and by 6.15 A.M. I +marched out with the vanguard, behind which streamed the Expedition, +according to their company, in single file, bearing with us 466 separate +"charges" or porterloads of ammunition, cloth, beads, wire, canned +provisions, rice, salt, oil for engines, brass rods, and iron wire. The +setting out was admirable, but after the first hour of the march the +mountains were so steep and stony, the sunshine was so hot, the loads so +heavy, the men so new to the work after the glorious plenty on board the +_Madura_, and we ourselves were in such an overfed condition, that the +Expedition straggled in the most disheartening manner to those not +prepared for such a sight. Arriving at the first river, the Mpozo, the +_Advance_ was already jointed, and we were ferried over to the other bank +by fifties, and camped. + +[Illustration: THE STEEL BOAT ADVANCE.] + +The Soudanese were a wretched sight. The Somalis were tolerable, though +they had grumbled greatly because there were no camels. The former showed +remarkably bad temper. Covered with their hooded great-coats, they had +endured a terrible atmosphere, and the effects of heat, fatigue, and +little worries were very prominent. + +[Illustration: MAXIM AUTOMATIC GUN.] + +The next day we camped in the grounds of Palaballa, belonging to the +Livingstone Inland Mission, and were most hospitably treated by Mr. +Clarke, the superintendent, and ladies. As our men were so new to their +work, we halted the next day. By the officers' returns I found that nine +had died since leaving Zanzibar, and seventeen were so ill that we were +compelled to leave them at Palaballa to recuperate. + +We resumed the march on the 28th, and reached Maza Mankengi. On the road +Mr. Herbert Ward was met, and volunteered as a member of the Expedition. +He was engaged, and sent to Mataddi to assist Mr. Ingham with the native +transport. Mr. Ward had been of late years in the service of the Congo +State, and previously had wandered in New Zealand and Borneo, and was +always regarded by me as a young man of great promise. + +We were in camp by noon of the 29th at Congo la Lemba, on the site of a +place I knew some years ago as a flourishing village. The chief of it was +then in his glory, an undisputed master of the district. Prosperity, +however, spoiled him, and he began to exact tolls from the State +caravans. The route being blocked by his insolence, the State sent a +force of Bangalas, who captured and beheaded him. The village was burnt, +and the people fled elsewhere. The village site is now covered with tall +grass, and its guava, palm, and lemon-trees are choked with reeds. + +There was a slight improvement in the order of the march, but the +beginning of an Expedition is always a trying time. The Zanzibaris carry +65 lbs. of ammunition, 9 lbs. per rifle, four days' rations of rice, and +their own kit, which may be from 4 to 10 lbs. weight of cloth and bedding +mats. After they have become acclimated this weight appears light to +them; but during the first month we have to be very careful not to make +long marches, and to exercise much forbearance. + +A heavy rain detained us the early part of next day, but soon after nine +we moved on and reached the Lufu River. It was a terribly fatiguing +march. Until midnight the people came streaming in, tired, footsore, and +sour. The officers slept in my tent, and supped on biscuits and rice. + +Near the Mazamba Wood we passed Baron von Rothkirch supervising a party +of Kabindas, who were hauling the _Florida's_ shaft. At the rate of +progress they would probably reach the Pool about August next; and at the +Bembezi Ford a French trader was met descending with a fine lot of ivory +tusks. + +We passed the Mangola River on the 31st, when I was myself disabled by a +fit of sickness from indulging in the guavas of Congo la Lemba, and on +the 1st April we travelled to Banza Manteka. At the L. I. Mission Mr. and +Mrs. Richards most kindly entertained us. At this place a few years' +mission work has produced a great change. Nearly all the native +population had become professed Christians, and attended Divine service +punctually with all the fervour of revivalists. Young men whom I had +known as famous gin-drinkers had become sober, decent men, and most +mannerly in behaviour. + +I received three letters from up river, one from Troup at Manyanga, +Swinburne at Kinshassa, and Glave at Equator Station, all giving a +distressing account of the steamers _Stanley_, _Peace_, _Henry Reed_, and +_En Avant_. The first is damaged throughout according to my informants, +the Mission steamers require thorough overhauling, the _En Avant_ has +been reduced to a barge. Mr. Troup suggests that we carry a lighter or +two from Manyanga to the Pool, a thing utterly impossible. We were +already overloaded because of the rice we carried to feed nearly 800 +people through the starving country. In order to lighten our work +slightly Messrs. Jephson and Walker were despatched with our steel boat, +the _Advance_, by the Congo to Manyanga. + +We passed by the Lunionzo River on the 3rd, and the next day camped on +the site of the abandoned village of Kilolo. During the march I passed a +Soudanese trying to strangle a Zanzibari because the wearied man had +slightly touched his shoulder with his box. The spleen the Soudanese show +is extremely exasperating, but we must exercise patience yet awhile. + +A march of three hours brought us to the Kwilu River, with the usual ups +and downs of hills, which tire the caravan. At the river, which is 100 +yards wide and of strong current, was a canoe without an owner. We took +possession of it, and began to cross the Advance Company by tens. + +The opportunity afforded by the ferriage was seized by me to write +appealing letters to the Commandant at Stanley Pool to interpret the +orders of the Minister of the Interior, Strauch, according to the +generous spirit expressed by King Leopold when he invited us to seek Emin +Pasha _viâ_ the Congo. Another was directed to the Rev. Mr. Bentley, of +the Baptist Mission, requesting him to remember the assistance I gave the +Baptists in 1880-84, and to be prepared to lead the steamer _Peace_ that +I might hurry the Expedition away from the poverty-stricken region around +Stanley Pool. Another was despatched to Mr. Billington, superintendent of +the _Henry Reed_, in similar terms, reminding him that it was I who had +given them ground at Stanley Pool. Another to the Commandant of Lukungu +Station, requesting him to collect 400 carriers to lighten the labours of +my men. + +On reaching Mwembi the 6th April, I was particularly struck with the +increase of demoralization in the caravan. So far, in order not to press +the people, I had been very quiet, entrusting the labour of bringing the +stragglers to the younger men, that they might become experienced in the +troubles which beset Expeditions in Africa; but the necessity of +enforcing discipline was particularly demonstrated on this march. The +Zanzibaris had no sooner pitched the tents of their respective officers +than they rushed like madmen among the neighbouring villages, and +commenced to loot native property, in doing which one named Khamis bin +Athman was shot dead by a plucky native. This fatal incident is one of +these signal proofs that discipline is better than constant forbearance, +and how soon even an army of licentious, insubordinate, and refractory +men would be destroyed. + +It had probably been believed by the mass of the people that I was rather +too old to supervise the march, as in former times; but on the march to +Vombo, on the 7th, everyone was undeceived, and the last of the lengthy +caravan was in camp by 11 A.M., and each officer enjoyed his lunch at +noon, with his mind at ease for duty done and a day's journey well made. +There is nothing more agreeable than the feeling one possesses after a +good journey briefly accomplished. We are assured of a good day's rest; +the remainder of the day is our own to read, to eat, to sleep, and be +luxuriously inactive, and to think calmly of the morrow; and there can +scarcely be anything more disagreeable than to know that, though the +journey is but a short one, yet relaxation of severity permits that cruel +dawdling on the road in the suffocating high grass, or scorched by a +blistering sun--the long line of carriers is crumpled up into perspiring +fragments--water far when most needed; not a shady tree near the road; +the loads robbed and scattered about over ten miles of road; the carriers +skulking among the reeds, or cooling themselves in groves at a distance +from the road; the officers in despair at the day's near close, and +hungry and vexed, and a near prospect of some such troubles to recur +again to-morrow and the day after. An unreflecting spectator hovering +near our line of march might think we were unnecessarily cruel; but the +application of a few cuts to the confirmed stragglers secure eighteen +hours' rest to about 800 people and their officers, save the goods from +being robbed--for frequently these dawdlers lag behind purposely for such +intentions--and the day ends happily for all, and the morrow's journey +has no horrors for us. + +On the 8th the Expedition was welcomed at Lukungu Station by Messrs. +Francqui and Dessauer. These hospitable Belgians had of their own impulse +gathered four days' rations for our 800 people, of potatoes, bananas, +brinjalls, Indian corn, and palm nuts. + +No sooner had we all assembled than the Soudanese gathered in a body to +demand more food. In fifteen days they had consumed each one 40 lbs. of +biscuit and rice; and they announced their intention of returning to the +Lower Congo if more rations were not served out. The four days' rations +of vegetables they disdained to touch. I had resolved to be very patient; +and it was too early yet to manifest even the desire to be otherwise. +Extra rations of rice and biscuits were accordingly served out. + +Fortunately for me personally there were good officers with me who could +relieve me of the necessity of coming into conflict with wilful fellows +like these sulky, obstinate Soudanese. I reserved for myself the _rôle_ +of mediator between exasperated whites and headstrong, undisciplined +blacks. Provided one is not himself worn out by being compelled +throughout the day to shout at thick-headed men, it is a most agreeable +work to extenuate offences and soothe anger. Probably the angry will turn +away muttering that we are partial; the other party perhaps thirsts for +more sympathy on its side; but the mediator must be prepared to receive a +rub or two himself. + +Thinking that there would be less chance of the Soudanese storming so +furiously against the Zanzibaris on the road, I requested Major Barttelot +to keep his Soudanese a day's march ahead of the Zanzibaris. + +It will not be surprising that we all felt more sympathy for the loaded +Zanzibaris. These formed our scouting parties, and foragers, and food +purveyors; they pitched our tents, they collected fuel, they carried the +stores; the main strength of the Expedition consisted of them; without +them the Europeans and Soudanese, if they had been ten times the number, +would have been of no use at all for the succour of Emin. The Soudanese +carried nothing but their rifles, their clothing, and their rations. By +the time they would be of actual utility we should be a year older; they +might perhaps fail us when the hour of need came, but we hoped not; in +the meantime, all that was necessary was to keep them moving on with as +little trouble as possible to themselves, the Zanzibaris, and us. The +Major, however, without doubt was sorely tempted. If he was compelled to +strike during these days, I must admit that the Soudanese were uncommonly +provoking. Job would have waxed wrathful, and become profane. + +The heat was terrible the day we left Lukungu--the 10th. The men dropped +down on all sides; chiefs and men succumbed. We overtook the Soudanese +again, and the usual scuffling and profanity occurred as an unhappy +result. + +On Easter Monday, the 11th, the Soudanese Company was stricken down with +fever, and lamentation was general, and all but two of the Somalis were +prostrated. Barttelot was in a furious rage at his unhappy Company, and +expressed a wish that he had been doing Jephson's duty with the boat. I +received a letter from Jephson in the evening, wherein he wrote that he +wished to be with us, or anywhere rather than on the treacherous and +turbulent Congo. + +The following day saw a foundering caravan as we struggled most +wretchedly into camp. The Soudanese were miles from each other, the +Somalis were all ill; one of those in the boat with Mr. Jephson had died. +Liebig, and meat soups, had to be prepared in sufficient quantities to +serve out cupfuls to each weakened man as he staggered in. + +Lutete's was reached the next day, and the experiences of the march were +similar. We suffer losses on every march--losses of men by desertion, by +illness, of rifles, boxes of canned provisions, and of fixed ammunition. + +At Nselo, on the Inkissi River, we encountered Jephson, who has seen some +novelties of life during his voyage up the Congo rapids to Manyanga. + +The sun has commenced to paint our faces a vermilion tint, for I see in +each officer's face two inflamed circles glowing red and bright under +each eye, and I fancy the eyes flash with greater brilliancy. Some of +them have thought it would be more picturesque, more of the ideal +explorer type, to have their arms painted also, and have bared their +milk-white arms until they seem bathed in flame. + +The 16th April we employed in ferrying the Expedition across the Inkissi +River, and by 5.30 P.M. every soul was across, besides our twenty donkeys +and herd of Cape goats. + +During the ferriage some hot words were exchanged between Salim, son of +Massoud, a brother-in-law of Tippu-Tib, and Mr. Mounteney Jephson, who is +the master of the boat. Salim, since he has married a sister of +Tippu-Tib, aspires to be beyond censure; his conceit has made him +abominably insolent. At Mataddi's he chose to impress his views most +arrogantly on Lieutenant Stairs; and now it is with Mr. Jephson, who +briefly told him that if he did not mind his own business he would have +to toss him into the river. Salim savagely resented this, until Tippu-Tib +appeared to ease his choler. + +At the next camp I received some more letters from Stanley Pool. +Lieutenant Liebrichts, the commissaire of the Stanley Pool district, +wrote that the steamer _Stanley_ would be at my disposition, and also a +lighter! The _En Avant_ would not be ready for six weeks. Another was +from Mr. Billington, who declined most positively to lend the _Henry +Reed_. + +One of my most serious duties after a march was to listen to all sorts of +complaints--a series of them were made on this day. A native robbed by a +hungry Zanzibari of a cassava loaf required restitution; Binza, the +goat-herd, imagined himself slighted because he was not allowed to +participate in the delicacy of goat tripe, and solicited my favour to +obtain for him this privilege; a Zanzibari weakling, starving amidst a +well-rationed camp and rice-fed people, begged me to regard his puckered +stomach, and do him the justice to see that he received his fair rations +from his greedy chief. Salim, Tippu-Tib's henchman, complained that my +officers did not admire him excessively. He said, "They should remember +he no Queen man now he Tippu-Tib's brudder-in-law" (Salim was formerly an +interpreter on board a British cruiser). And there were charges of thefts +of a whinstone, a knife, a razor, against certain incorrigible +purloiners. + +At our next camp on the Nkalama River, which we reached on the 18th +April, I received a letter by a courier from Rev. Mr. Bentley, who +informed me that no prohibition had been received by him from England of +the loan of the Baptist mission steamer _Peace_, and that provided I +assured him that the Zanzibaris did nothing contrary to missionary +character, which he as a missionary was desirous of maintaining, that he +would be most happy to surrender the _Peace_ for the service of the "Emin +Pasha Relief Expedition." Though very grateful, and fully impressed with +his generosity, in this unnecessary allusion to the Zanzibaris, and to +this covert intimation that we are responsible for their excesses, Mr. +Bentley has proved that it must have cost him a struggle to grant the +loan of the _Peace_. He ought to have remembered that the privilege he +obtained of building his stations at Leopoldville, Kinshassa, and +Lukolela was gained by the labours of the good-natured Zanzibaris, who +though sometimes tempted to take freedoms, were generally well behaved, +so much so that the natives preferred them to the Houssas, Kabindas, +Kruboys, or Bangalas. + +On the 19th we were only able to make a short march, as each day +witnessed a severe downpour of rain, and the Luila near which we camped +had become dangerously turbulent. + +On the 20th we reached Makoko's village. The Zanzibaris were observed to +be weakening rapidly. They have been compelled to live on stinted rations +lately, and their habit of indulging in raw manioc is very injurious. A +pound of rice per day is not a large ration for working men, but if they +had contrived to be contented on this scanty but wholesome fare for a +while they would not be in a robust condition, it is true, but there +certainly would be less illness. During this march from the Lower Congo +we had consumed up to date 27,500 lbs. of rice--about 13 tons--so that +the resources of the entire region had been severely taxed to obtain this +extra carriage. The natives having fled from the public paths, and our +fear that the Zanzibaris, if permitted to forage far from the camp, would +commit depredations, have been the main cause of their plucking up the +poisonous manioc tubers, and making themselves wretchedly sick. There +were about a hundred men on this date useless as soldiers or carriers. + +Arriving at Leopoldville on the 21st to the great delight of all, one of +my first discoveries was the fact that the _Stanley_, a small lighter, +our steel boat the _Advance_, and the mission steamer _Peace_ were the +only boats available for the transport of the Expedition up the Congo. I +introduce the following notes from my diary:-- + +_Leopoldville, April 22nd._--We are now 345 miles from the sea in view of +Stanley Pool, and before us free from rapids are about 1100 miles of +river to Yambuya on the Aruwimi whence I propose resuming the land +journey to Lake Albert. + +Messrs. Bentley and Whitley called on me to-day. We spoke concerning the +_Peace_. They said the vessel required many repairs. I insisted that the +case was urgent. They finally decided after long consultation that the +repairs could be finished by the 30th. + +In the afternoon I took Major Barttelot and Mr. Mounteney Jephson into my +confidence, and related to them the difficulties that we were in, +explained my claims on the consideration of the missionaries and the +urgent necessity of an early departure from the foodless district, that +provisions were so scarce that the State were able to procure only 60 +full rations for 146 people, and that to supply the others the State +officers had recourse to hunting the hippopotami in the Pool, and that we +should have to pursue the same course to eke out the rice. And if 60 +rations can only be procured for 146 people by the State authorities, how +were we to supply 750 people? I then directed them to proceed to Mr. +Billington and Dr. Sims, and address themselves to the former +principally--inasmuch as Dr. Sims was an unsuccessful applicant for a +position on this Expedition--and explain matters fairly to him. + +They were absent about an hour and a half, and returned to me +crestfallen,--they had failed. Poor Major! Poor Jephson! + +Monsieur Liebrichts, who had formerly served with me on the Congo at +Bolobo, was now the Governor of the Stanley Pool district. He dined with +me this evening and heard the story as related by Major Barttelot and Mr. +Mounteney Jephson. Nothing was kept back from him. He knew much of it +previously. He agreed heartily with our views of things and acknowledged +that there was great urgency. Jephson said, "I vote we seize the _Henry +Reed_." + +"No, my friend Jephson. We must not be rash. We must give Mr. Billington +time to consider, who would assuredly understand how much his mission was +indebted to me, and would see no difficulty in chartering his steamer at +double the price the Congo State paid to him. Those who subsist on the +charity of others naturally know how to be charitable. We will try again +to-morrow, when I shall make a more formal requisition and offer liberal +terms, and then if she is not conceded we must think what had best be +done under the circumstances." + +_April 23rd._--Various important matters were attended to this morning. +The natives from all parts in this neighbourhood came to revive +acquaintance, and it was ten o'clock before I was at liberty. + +Ngalyema was somewhat tedious with a long story about grievances that he +had borne patiently, and insults endured without plaint. He described the +change that had come over the white men, that of late they had become +more imperious in their manner, and he and other chiefs suspecting that +the change boded no good to them had timidly absented themselves from the +stations, the markets had been abandoned, and consequently food had +become scarce and very dear. + +Having given my sympathy to my old friends I called Barttelot and Jephson +and read to them a statement of former kindnesses shown to the +'Livingstone Inland Mission.' "When you have spoken, request in the name +of charity and humanity, and all good feeling, that Mr. Billington allow +me to offer liberal terms for the charter of the _Henry Reed_ for a +period of sixty days." + +Barttelot was inspired to believe that his eloquence would prevail, and +asked permission to try in his way once more. + +"Very good, Major, go, and success attend you." + +"I'm sure I shall succeed like a shot," said the Major confidently. + +The Major proceeded to the Mission House, and Mr. Jephson accompanied him +as a witness of the proceedings. Presently I received a characteristic +note from the Major, who wrote that he had argued ineffectually with the +missionaries, principally with Mr. Billington, but in the presence of Dr. +Sims, who sat in a chair contenting himself with uttering remarks +occasionally. + +Lieutenant Liebrichts was informed of the event, and presented himself, +saying that this affair was the duty of the State. + +Monsieur Liebrichts, who is undoubtedly one of the most distinguished +officers in the Congo State, and who has well maintained the high +character described in a former book of mine, devoted himself with ardour +to the task of impressing Mr. Billington with the irrationality of his +position, and of his obstinacy in declining to assist us out of our +difficulties in which we had been placed by the fault of circumstances. +To and fro throughout the day he went demanding, explaining, and +expostulating, and finally after twelve hours prevailed on Mr. Billington +to accept a charter upon the liberal terms offered; namely, £100 per +month. + +_April 24th._--Mustered Expedition and discovered we are short of 57 men, +and 38 Remington rifles. The actual number now is 737 men and 496 rifles. +Of bill-hooks, axes, shovels, canteens, spears, &c., we have lost over 50 +per cent.--all in a twenty-eight days' march. + +Some of the men, perhaps, will return to their duties, but if such a +large number deserts 3000 miles from their native land, what might have +been expected had we taken the East Coast route. The Zanzibar headmen +tell me with a cynical bitterness that the Expedition would have been +dissolved. They say, "These people from the clove and cinnamon +plantations of Zanzibar are no better than animals--they have no sense of +feeling. They detest work, they don't know what silver is, and they have +no parents or homes. The men who have homes never desert, if they did +they would be so laughed at by their neighbours that they could not +live." There is a great deal of truth in these remarks, but in this +Expedition are scores of confirmed bounty-jumpers who are only awaiting +opportunities. In inspecting the men to-day I was of the opinion that +only about 150 were free men, and that all the remainder were either +slaves or convicts. + +Mr. J. S. Jameson has kindly volunteered to proceed to shoot hippopotami +to obtain meat. We are giving 1 lb. of rice to each man--just half +rations. For the officers and our Arab guests I have a flock of goats, +about thirty in number. The food presents from the various chiefs around +have amounted to 500 men's rations and have been very acceptable. + +Capt. Nelson is busy with the axemen preparing fuel for the steamers. The +_Stanley_ must depart to-morrow with Major Barttelot and Surgeon Parke's +companies, and debark them at a place above the Wampoko, when they will +then march to Mswata. I must avail myself of every means of leaving +Stanley Pool before we shall be so pinched by hunger that the men will +become uncontrollable. + +_April 25th._--The steamer _Stanley_, steamed up river with 153 men under +Major Barttelot and Surgeon Parke. + +I paid a visit to Kinshassa to see my ancient secretary, Mr. Swinburne, +who is now manager of an Ivory Trading Company, called the "Sanford +Exploring Company." The hull of his steamer, _Florida_, being completed, +he suggested that if we assisted him to launch her he would be pleased to +lend her to the Expedition, since she was of no use to anybody until her +machinery and shaft came up with Baron von Rothkirch, who probably would +not arrive before the end of July. I was only too glad, and a number of +men were at once ordered up to begin the operations of extending the slip +to the river's edge. + +Our engineer, Mr. John Walker, was detailed for service on the _Henry +Reed_, to clean her up and prepare her for the Upper Congo. + +One Soudanese and one Zanzibari died to-day. + +_April 27th._--Thirteen Zanzibaris and one Soudanese, of those left +behind from illness, at stations on the way have arrived. They report +having sold their rifles and sapper's tools! + +_April 28th._--Struck camp and marched Expedition overland to Kinshassa +that I might personally superintend launching of hull of steamer, +_Florida_, which we hope to do the day after to-morrow, when the ship is +finished. We are being hospitably entertained meanwhile by Mr. Antoine +Greshoff, of the Dutch Company, and Mr. Swinburne of the Sanford +Company. + +[Illustration: LAUNCHING THE STEAMER "FLORIDA."] + +_April 29th._--In camp at Kinshassa under the baobabs. The steamers +_Stanley_ and _Henry Reed_, towing-barge _En Avant_ arrived. + +_April 30th._--The hull of the _Florida_ was launched this morning. Two +hundred men pulled her steadily over the extended slip into the river. +She was then taken to the landing-place of the Dutch Company and fastened +to the steamer _Stanley_. + +Each officer was furnished with the plan of embarkation, and directed to +begin work of loading the steamers according to programme. + +The following orders were also issued:-- + + The Officers commanding companies in this Expedition are-- + + Company + E. M. Barttelot Major No. 1, Soudanese. + W. G. Stairs Captain " 2, Zanzibaris. + R. H. Nelson " " 3 " + A. J. Mounteney Jephson " " 4 " + J. S. Jameson " " 5 " + John Rose Troup " " 6 " + T. H. Parke Captain and Surgeon " 7, Somalis and + Zanzibaris. + + Mr. William Bonny takes charge of transport and riding animals and + live stock, and assists Surgeon Parke when necessary. + +"Each officer is personally responsible for the good behaviour of his +company and the condition of arms and accoutrements." + +"Officers will inspect frequently cartridge-pouches of their men, and +keep record to prevent sale of ammunition to natives or Arabs." + +"For trivial offences--a slight corporal punishment only can be +inflicted, and this as seldom as possible. Officers will exercise +discretion in this matter, and endeavour to avoid irritating the men, by +being too exacting, or showing unnecessary fussiness." + +"It has been usual for me to be greatly forbearing--let the rule be, +three pardons for one punishment." + +"Officers will please remember that the labour of the men is severe, +their burdens are heavy, the climate hot, the marches fatiguing, and the +rations poor and often scanty. Under such conditions human nature is +extremely susceptible, therefore punishments should be judicious, not +vexatious, to prevent straining patience too much. Nevertheless +discipline must be taught, and when necessary enforced for the general +well-being." + +"Serious offences affecting the Expedition generally will be dealt with +by me." + +"While on shipboard one officer will be detailed to perform the duties of +the day. He must see to the distribution of rations, ship cleaned, and +that no fighting or wrangling occurs, as knifing soon follows unless +checked, that the animals are fed and watered regularly. For all petty +details apply to the senior officer, Major Barttelot." + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +FROM STANLEY POOL TO YAMBUYA. + + + Upper Congo scenery--Accident to the _Peace_--Steamers reach + Kimpoko--Collecting fuel--The good-for-nothing _Peace_--The + _Stanley_ in trouble--Arrival at Bolobo--The Relief Expedition + arranged in two columns--Major Barttelot and Mr. Jameson chosen for + command of Rear Column--Arrival at Equator and Bangala + Stations--The Basoko villages: Baruti deserts us--Arrival at + Yambuya. + +As I have already expatiated at large upon the description of scenes of +the Upper Congo, I intend to expunge altogether any impressions made on +us according to our varying moods during our river voyage of about 1100 +miles to Yambuya. I will confine myself to the incidents. + +The days passed quickly enough. Their earlier hours presented to us every +morning panoramas of forest-land, and myriads of forest isles, and broad +channels of dead calm water so beshone by the sun that they resembled +rivers of quicksilver. In general one might well have said that they were +exceedingly monotonous, that is if the traveller was moving upward day by +day past the same scenes from such a distance as to lose perception of +the details. But we skirted one bank or the other, or steered close to an +island to avail ourselves of the deep water, and therefore were saved +from the tedium of the monotony. + +Seated in an easy-chair scarcely 40 feet from the shore, every revolution +of the propeller caused us to see new features of foliage, bank, trees, +shrubs, plants, buds and blossoms. We might be indifferent to, or +ignorant of the character and virtues of the several plants and varied +vegetation we saw, we might have no interest in any portion of the +shore, but we certainly forgot the lapse of time while observing the +outward forms, and were often kindled into livelier interest whenever an +inhabitant of the air or of the water appeared in the field of vision. +These delightful views of perfectly calm waters, and vivid green forests +with every sprig and leaf still as death, and almost unbroken front line +of thick leafy bush sprinkled with butterflies and moths and insects, and +wide rivers of shining water, will remain longer in our minds than the +stormy aspects which disturbed the exquisite repose of nature almost +every afternoon. + +[Illustration: STANLEY POOL.] + +From the middle of March to the middle of May was the rainy season, and +daily, soon after 2 P.M., the sky betokened the approach of a lowering +tempest; the sun was hidden by the dark portents of storms, and soon +after the thunderbolts rent the gloom, lightning blazed through it, the +rain poured with tropical copiousness, and general misery prevailed and +the darkness of the night followed. + +Nature and time were at their best for us. The river was neither too high +nor too low. Were it the former we should have had the difficulty of +finding uninundated ground; had it been the latter we should have been +tediously delayed by the shallows. We were permitted to steer generally +about 40 yards from the left bank, and to enjoy without interruption over +1000 miles of changing hues and forms of vegetable life, which for their +variety, greenness of verdure, and wealth and scent of flowers, the world +cannot equal. Tornadoes were rare during the greater portion of the day, +whereby we escaped many terrors and perils; they occurred in the evening +or the night oftener, when we should be safely moored to the shore. +Mosquitoes, gadflies, tsetse and gnats were not so vicious as formerly. +Far more than half the journey was completed before we were reminded of +their existence by a few incorrigible vagrants of each species. The +pugnacious hippopotami and crocodiles were on this occasion well-behaved. +The aborigines were modest in their expectations, and in many instances +they gave goats, fowls, and eggs, bananas and plantains, and were content +with "chits" on Mr. John Rose Troup, who would follow us later. Our +health was excellent, indeed remarkably good, compared with former +experiences; whether the English were better adapted physically, or +whether they declined to yield, I know not, but I had fewer complaints on +this than on any previous expedition. + +On the 1st of May the start up the Congo was commenced with the departure +of the _Henry Reed_ and two barges, with Tippu-Tib and 96 followers and +35 of our men. Soon after her followed the _Stanley_ and her consort the +_Florida_, with 336 people, besides 6 donkeys, and cargoes of goods; and +half-an-hour later the _Peace_ attempted to follow, with 135 passengers +on board; but the good wishes of the people on shore had scarcely died +away, and we were breasting the rapid current, when her rudder snapped in +two. Her captain commanded the anchors to be dropped, which happened to +be over exceedingly rugged ground where the current was racing six knots. +The boat reeled to her beam ends, the chains tore her deck, and as the +anchors could not be lifted, being foul among the rocks below, we had to +cut ourselves loose and to return to Kinshassa landing-place. Captain +Whitley and Mr. David Charters the engineer set to to repair the rudder, +and at 8 P.M. their task was completed. + +The next morning we had better fortune, and in due time we reached +Kimpoko at the head of the Pool, where the other steamers awaited us. + +The _Peace_ led the advance up river on the 3rd; but the _Stanley_ drew +up, passed us, and reached camp an hour and a half ahead of us. The +_Henry Reed_ was last because of want of judgment on the part of her +captain. + +The _Peace_ was spasmodic. She steamed well for a short time, then +suddenly slackened speed. We waited half an hour for another spurt. Her +boiler was a system of coiled tubes, and her propellers were enclosed in +twin cylindrical shells under the stern, and required to be driven at a +furious rate before any speed could be obtained. She will probably give +us great trouble. + +As soon as we camped, which we generally did about 5 P.M., each officer +mustered his men, for wood cutting for the morrow's fuel. This was +sometimes very hard work, and continued for hours into the night. The +wood of dead trees required to be sought by a number of men and conveyed +to the landing-place for the cutters. For such a steamer as the _Stanley_ +it would require fifty men to search for and carry wood for quite two +hours; it would require a dozen axemen to cut it up into 30-inch lengths +for the grates. The _Peace_ and _Henry Reed_ required half as many axes +and an equal amount of time to prepare their fuel. It must then be stored +on board the steamers that no delay might take place in the morning, and +this required some more work before silence, which befits the night, +could be obtained, and in the meantime the fires were blazing to afford +light, and the noise of crashing, cutting, and splitting of logs +continued merrily. + +The good-for-nothing _Peace_ continued to provoke us on the 4th May. She +was certainly one of the slowest steamers any shipbuilder could build. We +halted every forty-five minutes or so to "oil up," and sometimes had to +halt to clear out the cylinders of the propellers, had to stop to raise +steam, to have the grate cleared out of charcoal, while five minutes +after raising steam up to 60°, she fell to 40°, and then 35°, and the +poor miserable thing floated down stream at the rate of a knot an hour. +We lost seven days at Stanley Pool through her; a day was lost when the +rudder broke; we were fated to be belated. + +The next day, the 5th, we made fast to the landing-place of Mswata. The +Major and Dr. Parke had arrived four days previously. They had prepared +quantities of fuel, and had purchased a large pile of provisions--loaves +of bread from the manioc root and Indian corn. + +On the 6th the Major and his companions received orders to march their +men to Kwamouth, and await the steamer. The _Stanley_ was ordered to +proceed to Bolobo, debark her passengers, and descend to Kwamouth to +convey Barttelot and men, while we reorganized companies at Bolobo. + +On the 7th we observed the _Stanley_ steamer ashore on the left bank near +Chumbiri, and proceeding to her to inquire into the delay discovered that +she was badly injured by running on a rocky reef. The second section had +been pierced in four separate places and several rivets knocked out and +others loosened. We therefore set to with the engineers of all the other +steamers to repair her, but Messrs. Charters and Walker, both Scotchmen, +were the most effective at the repairs. We cut up some old sheet iron oil +drums, formed plates of them, and screwed them in from the outside. This +was a very delicate labour, requiring patience and nicety of touch, as +there were two feet of water in the hold, and the screws required to be +felt to place the nuts on, as well as the punching of holes through the +bottom of the steamer. The engineer was up to his waist in water, and +striking his chisel through an element that broke the blow, then there +was the preparation of the plate to correspond with the holes in the +steamer, spreading the minium, then a layer of canvas, and another layer +of minium. When everything was ready for fixing the iron plate, a diver +was sent down, the iron plate with its canvas patch and minium layers in +one hand, and the end of a string attached to a hole in the plate in the +other hand. The diver outside had to feel for the corresponding hole in +the steamer, and the engineer up to his hips in water within the hold +felt for the end of the twine, which when found, was drawn in gently, and +the plate carefully guided, or the bolt was slipped in, and the engineer +placed the nut on. For hours this tedious work went on, and by evening of +the 7th, one large rent in the steel hull had been repaired; the 8th and +9th were passed before the steamer was able to continue her voyage. + +On the 10th the _Stanley_ caught the asthmatic _Peace_ up, and passed us +in company with the _Henry Reed_. A few hours later the _Peace_ sulked +altogether, and declined to proceed. Only 30 lbs. steam could be +maintained. We were therefore compelled to make fast to the shore. At +this period Mr. Charters' face possessed more interest than anything else +in the world. We hung on his words as though they were decrees of Fate. +He was a sanguine and cheerful little man, and he comforted us +exceedingly. He was sure we would arrive in Bolobo in good time, though +we did not appear to be proceeding very rapidly while tied to the shore. + +The next day we tried again, starting at 4 A.M., resolved to distinguish +ourselves. For an hour the _Peace_ behaved nobly, but finally she showed +symptoms of relapse. The steam descended lower and lower, and could not +retain 5 lbs., and we therefore cast anchor. At 10 A.M. the case +appearing hopeless, I despatched Mr. Ward in the whale boat to obtain +assistance from the _Henry Reed_, and at eight at night she appeared and +anchored sixty yards from us, and all the day we had been idly watching +the dark brown current flow by, anchored in mid-stream at least 500 yards +from either shore or island, seeing nothing but hippopotami, grassy +clumps, weeds, and débris of woods floating by. On the 12th we arrived +ignominiously at Bolobo in tow of the _Henry Reed_. + +When the traveller reaches Uyanzi such a thing as famine is scarcely +possible, and one of the best river ports for abundance and variety of +food is Bolobo. Here, then, after reaching a district where the people +could recuperate and forget the miseries of limited rations endured since +leaving Lukungu, was the place to form the Relief Expedition into two +columns. + +It was decided that as the force could not be transported on one voyage +to the Upper Congo, that the healthiest men should be selected to proceed +to Yambuya, and that the weakly should remain in Bolobo as a portion of +Major Barttelot's column under Messrs. Herbert Ward, and William Bonny, +until the _Stanley_ should return from Yambuya. We had started from +England with the cry of "urgency" in our ears and memories, and it +behoved us to speed on as well as circumstances would permit in obedience +to the necessity, trusting that the rear column would be able to follow +on our tracks some six or seven weeks later. + +We accordingly selected 125 men who appeared weakest in body, and left +them at Bolobo to fatten up on the bananas and excellent native bread and +fish that were easily procurable here. The _Stanley_ in the meantime had +descended to Kwamouth with Major Barttelot, Dr. Parke, and 153 men. + +The vexed question was also settled here as to who should take charge of +the rear column. It being the most important post next to mine, all eyes +were naturally directed to the senior officer, Major Barttelot. It was +said that he had led a column of a thousand men from Kosseir on the Red +Sea to Keneh on the Nile, and that he had distinguished himself in +Afghanistan and in the Soudan Campaign. If these facts were true, then +undoubtedly he was the fittest officer for the office of commanding the +rear column. Had there been a person of equal rank with him, I should +certainly have delegated this charge to another, not because of any known +unfitness, but because he was so eager to accompany the advance column. +On reflecting on the capacities and rank of the other gentlemen, and +their eagerness being too well known to me, I informed the Major that I +could not really undertake the responsibility of appointing youthful +lieutenants to fill a post that devolved on him by rank, experience, and +reputation. + +"One more steamer like the _Stanley_ would have done it, Major, +completely," I said, cheerfully, for the young officer was sorely +depressed. "Only 125 men and a cargo of goods left of the Expedition. All +the rest are on board comfortably. If you can discover some better person +than yourself to take your place between here and Yambuya, I would gladly +know him. I hope you will not take it too much to heart. For what does it +matter after all? You who bring up the rear are as much entitled to +credit as we in the advance. If Tippu-Tib will only be faithful, you will +only be six weeks behind us, and you may overtake us, for we shall be +naturally delayed a great deal, finding the track and boring our way +through all kinds of obstacles. You will follow an indicated path, and +frequently you may be able to make two of our marches in one day. If +Tippu-Tib does not join us, you will be master of your own column, and +you will be so occupied with your task that the days will slip by you +fast enough. And I tell you another thing for your comfort, Major; there +is plenty of work ahead of us, wherein you shall have the most important +part. Now tell me, who would you wish for your second?" + +"Oh, I would rather leave it to you." + +"Nay, I would prefer you would select some one friend as your companion, +to share your hopes and thoughts. We all of us have our partialities, you +know." + +"Well, then, I choose Jameson." + +"Very well, Mr. Jameson shall be appointed. I will speak to him myself. I +will then leave Mr. Rose Troup, who is a capital fellow, I have reason to +believe, and young Ward and Bonny. Both Troup and Ward speak Swahili, and +they will be of vast service to you." + +In this manner the matter was arranged, and on the 15th of May the +flotilla resumed the up-river voyage, conveying 511 persons of the +Expedition, and Tippu-Tib and ninety of his followers. + +We made a fair journey on the 16th, the repairs on the _Peace_ having +greatly improved her rate of progress, and on the 19th made fast to the +shore near the Baptist Mission of Lukolela, though the _Stanley_ did not +make her appearance until late on the 19th. + +We halted on the 20th at Lukolela, to purchase food for our journey to +Equator Station, and we were extremely grateful for the kind hospitality +shown to us by the missionaries at this station. + +On the 24th of May we arrived at Equator Station, now owned by the +Sanford Company, which was represented by Mr. E. J. Glave, a young and +clever Yorkshireman. Captain Van Gele was also here, with five Houssa +soldiers lately returned from a futile effort to ascend the Mobangi +higher than Mr. Grenfell, the missionary, had succeeded in doing some +months previously. + +We reached Bangala Station on the 30th May. This place was now a very +large and prosperous settlement. There was a garrison of sixty men and +two Krupps, for defence. Bricks were made, of excellent quality; 40,000 +had already been manufactured. The establishment was in every way very +creditable to Central Africa. The chief, Van Kirkhoven, was absent at +Langa-Langa. He had lately succeeded in releasing twenty-nine Houssa +soldiers from slavery. During the escape of Deane from Stanley Falls, +these Houssas had precipitately retreated into a canoe, and had floated +as far as Upoto when they were captured as runaways by the natives of the +district. + +Among other good qualities of Bangala, there is a never-failing supply of +food. The station possessed 130 goats and a couple of hundred fowls, +which supplied the officers with fresh eggs. Ten acres were green with a +promising rice crop. The officers enjoyed wine of palm and banana, and +fermented beer made of sugar-cane, and exceedingly potent I found the +latter to be. + +At Bangala I instructed Major Barttelot to proceed with Tippu-Tib and +party direct to Stanley Falls, having first taken out thirty-five +Zanzibaris from the boats, and replaced them with forty Soudanese, that +none of the Zanzibaris might become acquainted with the fact that Stanley +Falls was but a few days' march from Yambuya. + +With the exception of certain irregularities in the behaviour of the +steamer _Stanley_, which by some mysterious manoeuvres disappeared amid +intricate passages, on the plea that sufficient fuel of a right quality +could be found, we steamed up to the Aruwimi River without any incident, +and arrived at our ancient camp, opposite the Basoko villages, on June +12th. + +The Basoko were the countrymen of Baruti, or "Gunpowder," who had been +captured by Karema when a child, in 1883, and had been taken to England +by Sir Francis de Winton, with a view of impressing on him the +superiority of civilized customs. From Sir Francis' care Baruti passed +into mine, and here we were at last in view of his natal village and +tribe, from which he had been absent six years. + +Seeing Baruti eyeing with excessive interest the place of his birth, he +was encouraged by me to hail the Basoko, and invite them to visit us. My +previous attempts at winning the confidence of these forest natives had +been failures, though in time I was sure there would be no difficulty. +For a long period it had been an interesting question to me why +aborigines of the forest were more intractable and coy than natives of +the open country. The same methods had been applied, the dangling of some +bright or gaudy article of barter, the strings of beads of dazzling +colour, suspended patiently, the artful speech, the alluring smile and +gesture, all were resorted to for long hours, but always ending with +disappointment and postponement to a more leisurely occasion. But the +reason is that the forest has been always a handy fastness for retreat, +the suspicion of the stranger, and the convenient depth of trackless +woods plead strongly against some indefinite risk. The least advance +causes a precipitate backward movement until he gains the limits of the +forest, and then he stands to take a last survey, and finally disappears +into the gloom with an air of "It won't do, you know; you can't come +over me." Whereas in the open country the native has generally some coign +of vantage, some eminence, a tree or an ant-hill, from the crest of which +he has taken his observations, and been warned and informed of the +character of the strangers, in the forest the stranger meets the tenant +of the woods abruptly; he has advanced out of the unknown, with purpose +unfathomed. Surprise is in the face of one, terror marks the face of the +other. + +[Illustration: BARUTI FINDS HIS BROTHER.] + +Baruti hailed, and the canoes advanced towards us with a tediously slow +process, but finally they approached within easy hearing. He recognized +some of the canoemen, and informed them that they had no cause for fear. +He asked for a person whose name he uttered, and the wild men hallooed +the word with splendid lung-power across the river, until some one +responded, and embarked in a canoe and approached. This turned out to be +Baruti's elder brother. Baruti demanded to know how his brother fared, +after so many year of absence. The brother eyed him vacantly, could not +recognize any feature in him, and grunted his doubt. + +Baruti mentioned the name of his parents, that of his father, and +afterwards that of his mother. Great interest now manifested itself in +his brother's face, and he skilfully drew his canoe nearer. + +"If you are my brother, tell me some incident, that I may know you." + +"Thou hast a scar on thy arm--there, on the right. Dost thou not remember +the crocodile?" + +This was enough; the young, broad-chested native gave a shout of joy, and +roared out the discovery to his countrymen on the further bank, and +Baruti for the first time shed tears. The young fellow drew near to the +ship, forgot his fears of the strangers, and gave Baruti a frantic hug, +and the other canoes advanced to participate in the joy of the two +restored brothers. + +In the evening Baruti was offered his choice of staying in his village +among his tribe, or of following our adventures; at the same time he was +advised not to leave us, as life among the Basoko would be very insecure +with the Arabs in such close proximity as Stanley Falls. + +The lad appeared to think so too, and so declined to be restored to his +native land and tribe; but a day or two after reaching Yambuya he altered +his mind, came into my tent in the dead of night, armed himself with my +Winchester rifle and a brace of Smith and Wesson revolvers, a supply of +rifle and revolver cartridges, took possession of a silver road-watch, a +silver pedometer, a handsome belt with fitted pouches, a small sum of +money, and, possessing himself of a canoe, disappeared down river to some +parts unknown, most probably to his tribe. At any rate, we have never +seen or heard of him since. Peace be with him! + +On the 15th of June we arrived opposite Yambuya villages, situated on the +left bank of the Aruwimi, 96 miles above the confluence of the Aruwimi +and the Congo. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +AT YAMBUYA. + + + We land at Yambuya villages--The _Stanley_ leaves for Equator + Station--Fears regarding Major Barttelot and the _Henry Reed_--Safe + arrival--Instructions to Major Barttelot and Mr. Jameson respecting + the Rear Column--Major Barttelot's doubts as to Tippu-Tib's good + faith--A long conversation with Major Barttelot--Memorandum for the + officers of the Advance Column--Illness of Lieutenant Stairs--Last + night at Yambuya--Statements as to our forces and accoutrements. + +We were now over 1300 miles from the sea. Opposite to us were the +villages which we hoped, with the goodwill of the natives, to occupy +temporarily as a depot for the men and stores left at Bolobo and +Leopoldville, 125 men and about 600 porter-loads of impedimenta; if not +with the natives' goodwill by fair purchase of the privilege, then by +force. + +On an exploring visit in 1883 I had attempted to conciliate them without +any permanent result. We had a very serious object in view now. In +prospective we saw only the distant ports of the Nile and the Albert +Nyanza, defended by men ever casting anxious glances to every cardinal +point of the compass, expectant of relief, as they must by this time be +well informed by our couriers from Zanzibar; but between us and them was +a broad region justly marked with whiteness on the best maps extant. +Looking at that black wall of forest which had been a continuous bank of +tall woods from Bolobo hitherto, except when disparted by the majestic +streams pouring their voluminous currents to the parent river, each of us +probably had his own thoughts far hidden in the recesses of the mind. +Mine were of that ideal Governor in the midst of his garrisons, cheering +and encouraging his valiant soldiers, pointing with hand outstretched to +the direction whence the expected relief would surely approach if it were +the will of God, and in the distance beyond I saw in my imagination the +Mahdist hordes advancing with frantic cries and thrilling enthusiasm +crying out, "Yallah, Yallah," until from end to end of the swaying lines +the cry was heard rolling through the host of fervid and fanatical +warriors, and on the other sides multitudes of savages vowed to +extermination biding their time, and between them and us was this huge +area of the unknown without a track or a path. + +[Illustration: A TYPICAL VILLAGE ON THE LOWER ARUWIMI.] + +Ammunition was served out by the captains of the companies, and +instructions were issued to them to have steam up on board their +respective steamers that we might commence the first most important move +preparatory to marching towards the Albert Nyanza. + +At six o'clock in the morning of the 16th of June the _Peace_ glided from +her berth until she was abreast of the _Stanley_, and when near enough to +be heard, I requested the officers to await my signal. Then, steaming +gently across the river, we attempted to soothe the fears and quiet the +excitement of the natives by remaining abreast of the great crowd that +stood upon the bluffy bank fifty feet above us, regarding us with wonder +and curiosity. Our interpreter was well able to make himself understood, +for the natives of the lower Aruwimi speak but one language. After an +hour's interchange of compliments and friendly phrases, they were induced +to send a few of the boldest down to the river's edge, and by a slight +movement of the helm the current pushed the steamer close to the bank, +where another hour was passed in entreaty and coaxing on our part, +denials and refusals on the other. We succeeded in the purchase of one of +their knives for a liberal quantity of beads! Encouraged by this, we +commenced to negotiate for leave to reside in their village for a few +weeks at a price in cloth, beads, wire, or iron, but it was met with +consistent and firm denial for another hour. + +[Illustration: OUR LANDING AT YAMBUYA.] + +It was now nine o'clock, my throat was dry, the sun was getting hot, and +I signalled to the steamer _Stanley_ to come across and join us, and +when near enough, according to agreement a second signal caused the steam +whistles to sound, and under cover of the deafening sounds, pent up as +they were by the lofty walls of the forest, both steamers were steered to +the shore, and the Zanzibaris and Soudanese scramble up the steep sides +of the bluff like monkeys, and when the summit was gained not a villager +was in sight. + +We found Yambuya settlement to consist of a series of villages of conical +huts extending along the crest of the bank, whence far-reaching views of +the Aruwimi up and down stream could be obtained. The companies were +marched to their respective quarters. Guards were set at the end of every +path leading out. Some of the men were detailed to cut wood for a +palisade, others to collect fuel, and several squads were despatched to +ascertain the extent of the fields and their locality. + +In the afternoon two natives from a village below Yambuya made their +appearance with a flattering confidence in their demeanour. They belonged +to the Baburu tribes, to which these various fragments of tribes between +Stanley Falls and the Lower Aruwimi belong. They sold us a few bananas, +were well paid in return, and invited to return with more food, and +assurance was given that they need be under no alarm. + +On the next day men were sent to collect manioc from the fields, others +were sent to construct a palisade, a ditch was traced, workers were +appointed to dig a trench for sinking the stockade poles, woodcutters +were sent to work to prepare to load the steamers with fuel, that with +their weakened crews they might not be surprised on their return journey +to the Pool, and everywhere was life and activity. + +Several captures were made in the woods, and after being shown +everything, the natives were supplied with handfuls of beads to convey +the assurance that no fear ought to be entertained of us and no harm done +to them. + +On the 19th fuel sufficient had been cut for six days' steaming for the +_Stanley_ with which she could proceed to Equator Station. A cheque was +drawn for £50 in favour of the Captain, and another for a similar amount +for the engineer, on Ransom, Bouverie & Co., and both were handed in +their presence to Mr. Jameson to be presented to them on their return +from Stanley Pool, provided they safely reached Yambuya about the middle +of August. A valuable jewel was sent to Lieutenant Liebrichts as a token +of my great regard for him. The _Stanley_ left next morning with my +letters to the Emin Relief Committee. + +The _Peace_ was detained for the sake of accompanying her consort, the +_Henry Reed_, which was now hourly expected from Stanley Falls according +to the instructions given to Major Barttelot, as she ought to have +reached us on the 19th. + +In a wild country like this, cannibals in the forest on either hand, and +thousands of slave raiders in such a close vicinity as Stanley Falls, we +were naturally prone to suspect the occurrence of serious events, if +one's expectations were not promptly and punctually realized. Major +Barttelot had passed the mouth of the Aruwimi on the 11th inst. in +command of the steamer _Henry Reed_, conveying Tippu-Tib and party to a +settlement from which an English commandant and garrison had been +precipitately ousted. True, the Arab chief had been very confident in his +manner, and earnest in the assurance that in nine days after arriving at +his settlement he would present himself at Yambuya with 600 carriers in +accordance with his agreement, and I was loth to believe that he was in +any way responsible for this detention of the Major. Yet the Major should +have reached Stanley Falls on the 13th, on the evening of the 14th he +should have been at the mouth of the Aruwimi again, and on the 16th at +Yambuya; that is, provided the Major was gifted with the spirit of +literal performance and permitted nothing to tempt him to delay. It was +now the 21st. The officers were confident that nothing had occurred but +the delays natural to circumstances of existence in Africa, but hourly I +found myself straying to the edge of the bluff sweeping the view down +river with my glass. + +On the 22nd my uneasiness was so great that I penned an order to +Lieutenant Stairs to take fifty of the best men, and the Maxim machine +gun, to proceed down river on the morning of the 23rd with the _Peace_ to +search for the _Henry Reed_, and if all other eventualities mentioned and +explained had not transpired to proceed to Stanley Falls. On arriving +before this settlement if the vessel was seen at the landing-place, and +his friendly signals as he advanced were not responded to, he was to +prepare everything for assault and re-capture of the steamer, and to +hurry back to me with the news if unsuccessful. + +At 5 P.M., however, the Zanzibaris rang out the welcome cry of "Sail ho!" +Barttelot was safe, no accident had occurred. Tippu-Tib had not captured +the vessel, the Soudanese had not mutinied against the Major, the natives +had not assaulted the sleeping camp by night, the steamer had not been +sunk by a snag nor had she been run aground, and the boat for which we +were morally responsible to the Mission was in as good order and +condition as when she left Stanley Pool. But in Africa it is too wearing +to be the victim of such anxieties. + +The Major had been simply detained by various mischances--fighting with +natives, palaver with Tippu-Tib and men, &c. &c. + +Two days later the steamers _Peace_ and _Henry Reed_ were loaded with +fuel and despatched homeward down river, and we had severed the last link +with civilization for many a month to come. + +On this day I delivered the following letter of instructions to Major +Barttelot, and a copy of it to Mr. J. S. Jameson his second in command. + + _June 24th, 1887._ + + _To_ Major Barttelot, &c., &c., &c. + + Sir,--As the senior of those officers accompanying me on the Emin + Pasha Relief Expedition, the command of this important post + naturally devolves on you. It is also for the interest of the + Expedition that you accept this command, from the fact that your + Soudanese company, being only soldiers, and more capable of + garrison duty than the Zanzibaris, will be better utilized than on + the road. + + The steamer _Stanley_ left Yambuya on the 22nd of this month for + Stanley Pool. If she meets with no mischance she ought to be at + Leopoldville on the 2nd of July. In two days more she will be + loaded with about 500 loads of our goods, which were left in charge + of Mr. J. R. Troup. This gentleman will embark, and on the 4th of + July I assume that the _Stanley_ will commence her ascent of the + river, and arrive at Bolobo on the 9th. Fuel being ready, the 125 + men in charge of Messrs. Ward and Bonny, now at Bolobo, will + embark, and the steamer will continue her journey. She will be at + Bangala on the 19th of July, and arrive here on the 31st of July. + Of course, the lowness of the river in that month may delay her a + few days, but, having great confidence in her captain, you may + certainly expect her before the 10th of August.[G] + + It is the non-arrival of these goods and men which compel me to + appoint you as commander of this post. But as I shall shortly + expect the arrival of a strong reinforcement of men,[H] greatly + exceeding the advance force which must, at all hazards, push on to + the rescue of Emin Pasha, I hope you will not be detained longer + than a few days after the departure of the _Stanley_ on her final + return to Stanley Pool in August. + + Meantime, pending the arrival of our men and goods, it behoves you + to be very alert and wary in the command of this stockaded camp. + Though the camp is favourably situated and naturally strong, a + brave enemy would find it no difficult task to capture if the + commander is lax in discipline, vigour and energy. Therefore I feel + sure that I have made a wise choice in selecting you to guard our + interests here during our absence. + + The interests now entrusted to you are of vital importance to this + Expedition. The men you will eventually have under you consist of + more than an entire third of the Expedition. The goods that will be + brought up are the currency needed for transit through the regions + beyond the Lakes; there will be a vast store of ammunition and + provisions, which are of equal importance to us. The loss of these + men and goods would be certain ruin to us, and the Advance Force + itself would need to solicit relief in its turn. Therefore, + weighing this matter well, I hope you will spare no pains to + maintain order and discipline in your camp, and make your defences + complete, and keep them in such a condition, that however brave an + enemy may be he can make no impression on them. For this latter + purpose I would recommend you to make an artificial ditch 6 feet + wide, 3 feet deep, leading from the natural ditch, where the spring + is round the stockade. A platform, like that on the southern side + of the camp, constructed near the eastern as well as the western + gate, would be of advantage to the strength of the camp. For + remember, it is not the natives alone who may wish to assail you, + but the Arabs and their followers may, through some cause or other, + quarrel with you and assail your camp. + + Our course from here will be due east, or by magnetic compass east + by south as near as possible. Certain marches that we may make may + not exactly lead in the direction aimed at. Nevertheless, it is the + south-west corner of Lake Albert, near or at Kavalli, that is our + destination. When we arrive there we shall form a strong camp in + the neighbourhood, launch our boat, and steer for Kibero, in + Unyoro, to hear from Signor Casati, if he is there, of the + condition of Emin Pasha. If the latter is alive, and in the + neighbourhood of the Lake, we shall communicate with him, and our + after conduct must be guided by what we shall learn of the + intentions of Emin Pasha. We may assume that we shall not be longer + than a fortnight with him before deciding on our return towards the + camp along the same road traversed by us. + + We will endeavour, by blazing trees and cutting saplings along our + road, to leave sufficient traces of the route taken by us. We shall + always take, by preference, tracks leading eastward. At all + crossings where paths intersect, we shall hoe up and make a hole a + few inches deep across all paths not used by us, besides blazing + trees when possible. + + It may happen, should Tippu-Tib have sent the full number of adults + promised by him to me, viz., 600 men (able to carry loads), and the + _Stanley_ has arrived safely with the 125 men left by me at Bolobo, + that you will feel yourself sufficiently competent to march the + column, with all the goods brought by the _Stanley_, and those left + by me at Yambuya, along the road pursued by me. In that event, + which would be very desirable, you will follow closely our route, + and before many days we should most assuredly meet. No doubt you + will find our bomas intact and standing, and you should endeavour + to make your marches so that you could utilise these as you + marched. Better guides than those bomas of our route could not be + made. If you do not meet them in the course of two days' march, you + may rest assured that you are not on our route. + + It may happen, also, that though Tippu-Tib has sent some men, he + has not sent enough to carry the goods with your own force. In that + case you will, of course, use your discretion as to what goods you + can dispense with to enable you to march. For this purpose you + should study your list attentively. + + 1st. Ammunition, especially fixed, is most important. + + 2nd. Beads, brass wire, cowries and cloth, rank next. + + 3rd. Private luggage. + + 4th. Powder and caps. + + 5th. European provisions. + + 6th. Brass rods as used on the Congo. + + 7th. Provisions (rice, beans, peas, millet, biscuits). + + Therefore you must consider, after rope, sacking, tools, such as + shovels (never discard an axe or bill-hook), how many sacks of + provisions you can distribute among your men to enable you to + march--whether half your brass rods in the boxes could not go also, + and there stop. If you still cannot march, then it would be better + to make two marches of six miles twice over, if you prefer marching + to staying for our arrival, than throw too many things away. + + With the _Stanley's_ final departure from Yambuya, you should not + fail to send a report to Mr. William Mackinnon, c/o Gray, Dawes and + Co., 13, Austin Friars, London, of what has happened at your camp + in my absence, or when I started away eastward; whether you have + heard of or from me at all, when you do expect to hear, and what + you purpose doing. You should also send him a true copy of this + order, that the Relief Committee may judge for themselves whether + you have acted, or propose to act, judiciously. + + Your present garrison shall consist of 80 rifles, and from 40 to 50 + supernumeraries. The _Stanley_ is to bring you within a few weeks + 50 more rifles and 75 supernumeraries, under Messrs. Troup, Ward + and Bonny. + + I associate Mr. J. S. Jameson with you at present. Messrs. Troup, + Ward and Bonny, will submit to your authority. In the ordinary + duties of the defence, and the conduct of the camp or of the march, + there is only one chief, which is yourself; but, should any vital + step be proposed to be taken, I beg you will take the voice of Mr. + Jameson also. And when Messrs, Troup and Ward are here, pray admit + them to your confidence, and let them speak freely their opinions. + I think I have written very clearly upon everything that strikes me + as necessary. Your treatment of the natives, I suggest, should + depend entirely upon their conduct to you. Suffer them to return to + the neighbouring villages in peace, and if you can in any manner by + moderation, small gifts occasionally of brass rods, &c., hasten an + amicable intercourse, I should recommend you doing so. Lose no + opportunity of obtaining all kinds of information respecting the + natives, the position of the various villages in your + neighbourhood, &c., &c. + + I have the honour to be, your obedient servant, + + Henry M. Stanley. + _Commanding Expedition._ + +The Major withdrew to read it, and then requested Mr. Jameson to make a +few copies. + +About two o'clock the Major returned to me and asked for an interview. He +said he desired to speak with me concerning Tippu-Tib. + +"I should like to know, sir, something more regarding this Arab. When I +was delayed a few days ago at the Falls, you were pleased to deliver some +rather energetic orders to Lieutenant Stairs. It strikes me that you are +exceedingly suspicious of him, and if so, I really cannot see why you +should have anything to do with such a man." + +"Well, sir, I shall be pleased to discuss him with you, or any other +subject," I replied. + +"Three days before your steamer was sighted coming up river, I must +confess to have been very anxious about you. You were in command of a +steamer which belonged to other parties to whom we were pledged to return +her within a certain time. You had a company of forty soldiers, +Soudanese, as your escort. The vessel was well fitted and in perfect +order. We knew the time you ought to have occupied, provided no accident +occurred, and as your instructions were positively to depart from Stanley +Falls, as soon as the cow promised by our friend Ngalyema was aboard, and +if she was not forthcoming within an hour you were to slip away down +river. Assuming that no accident happened and that you obeyed orders, you +should have been here on the evening of the 16th, or on the 17th at the +latest. You did not arrive until 5 P.M. on the 22nd. + +"We have no telegraphs here, or posts. As we could gain no intelligence +of you, my anxiety about you created doubts. As one day after another +passed, doubts became actual dread that something unaccountable had +occurred. Had you struck a snag, run aground, like the _Stanley_ and +_Royal_ did, as almost all steamers do, had you been assaulted by natives +in the night like Captain Deane in the A. I. A. at Bunga, had your +Soudanese mutinied as they threatened to do at Lukungu, had you been shot +as a Soudanese regiment shot all their white officers in the Soudan once, +had you been detained by force because Tippu-Tib had been over persuaded +to do by those young fire-eaters of Arabs at the Falls, had you +quarrelled with those young fellows, the two Salims, as Stairs and +Jephson did below Stanley Pool. If not, what had occurred? Could I, could +anybody suggest anything else?" + +"But I was obliged----" + +"Never mind, my dear Major, say no more about it. Don't think of +defending yourself. I am not mentioning these things to complain of you, +but replying to your question. All is well that ends safely. + +"Now as to Tippu-Tib. I have nothing to do with Tippu-Tib, but from +necessity, for your sake as well as mine. He claims this is his +territory. We are on it as his friends. Supposing we had not made +agreement with him, how long should we be left to prepare for the march +to the Albert, or how long would you be permitted to remain here, before +you had to answer the question why you were on his territory? Could I +possibly leave you here, with my knowledge of what they are capable +of--alone? With eighty rifles against probably 3000, perhaps 5000 guns? +Why, Major, I am surprised that you who have seen Stanley Falls, and some +hundreds of the Arabs should ask the question? + +"You have accompanied Tippu-Tib and nearly a hundred of his followers +from Zanzibar. You have seen what boyish delight they took in their +weapons, their Winchesters, and valuable double-barrelled rifles. You +know the story of Deane's fight at Stanley Falls. You know that Tippu-Tib +is vindictive, that his fiery nephews would like a fight better than +peace. You know that he meditated war against the Congo State, and that I +had to pass on a relief mission through a portion of his territory. Why +how can you--grown to the rank of Major--ask such questions, or doubt the +why and wherefore of acts which are as clear as daylight? + +"Our transport the _Madura_ was in Zanzibar harbour. The owner of this +district, as he calls himself, was preparing munitions against all white +men on the Congo, resenting and resentful. Would it have been prudent for +me to have left this man in such a state? That he prepared for war +against the State did not materially affect me, but that he intended +doing so while I had to pass through his territory, and in his +neighbourhood on a humane mission was everything. Therefore I was as much +interested in this affair of patching up a peace between the Congo State +and King Leopold as His Majesty himself was, and more so indeed. + +"And I suppose you will ask me next how does it affect your personal +interests? Have you not told me over and over again that you are burning +to accompany us, that you would infinitely prefer marching to waiting +here? And is it not understood according to your letter of +instructions--that failing Tippu-Tib's appearance with his 600 carriers, +you are to make double-stages, or triple-stages rather than stay at +Yambuya? + +"Look at these pencilled calculations on this paper--nay, you can keep +it, if you please. They represent what you can do with your own men, and +what you can do assuming that Tippu-Tib really keeps to the letter of his +contract. + +"Now I have grounded my instructions principally on your impetuous answer +to me at Bolobo. 'By Jove! I will not stay a day at Yambuya after I get +my column together!' + +"See here! The letter says--'It may happen that Tippu-Tib has sent some +men, but not sent enough; therefore, you know, use your discretion; +dispense with No. 7, provisions, such as rice, beans, peas, millet, +biscuits. See how many sacks of provisions you can issue out to your +men--they will eat them fast enough, I warrant you.' + +"It goes on--'If you still cannot march, then it would be better to make +marches of six miles twice over--that is, to go one march of six miles, +and then return to fetch another lot, and march forward again. Such as my +work was on the Congo, when with 68 men I made 33 round trips on the +stretch of 52 miles to take 2000 loads--5 immense waggons and make a +waggon road, building bridges, etc.' That pencilled paper in your hand +informs you how many miles you can do in this fashion in six months. + +"But this is how my pact with Tippu-Tib affects you personally. If +Tippu-Tib performs his contract faithfully, then on the arrival of the +_Stanley_ with Messrs. Ward, Troup, and Bonny, and their men, you can set +out from Yambuya within a day or two, and perhaps overtake us, or on our +return from the Albert we shall meet before many days. + +"Now which would you personally prefer doing? Travelling backwards and +forwards from camp to camp, twice, or perhaps thrice, or have Tippu-Tib +with 600 carriers to help your 200 carriers, and march at a swinging pace +through the woods on our track, straight for the Albert Nyanza?" + +"Oh, there is not a doubt of it. I should prefer marching straight away +and try and catch up with you. Naturally." + +"Well, do you begin to understand why I have been sweet, and good, and +liberal to Tippu-Tib? Why I have given him free passage and board for +himself and followers from Zanzibar to Stanley Falls? Why I have shared +the kid and the lamb with him?" + +"Quite." + +"Not quite yet, I am afraid, Major, otherwise you would not have doubted +me. There is still a serious reason. + +"Assuming, for instance, that I had not brought Tippu-Tib here, that the +Arabs at Stanley Falls were not wrathy with white men for Deane's affair, +or that they would fear attacking you. They had but to affect friendship +with you, sell you goats and food, and then tell your Zanzibaris that +their settlement was but six or seven days away--where they had plenty of +rice and fish and oil to tempt three-fourths of your men to desert in a +few days, while you were innocently waiting for the Bolobo contingent; +and no sooner would the other fellows have reached here than they would +hear of the desertion of their comrades for the Falls, and follow suit +either wholesale or by twos and threes, sixes and tens, until you would +have been left stranded completely. Is it not the fear of this desertion +that was one of the reasons I chose the Congo? Having Tippu-Tib as my +friend and engaged to me, I have put a stop to the possibility of any +wholesale desertion. + +"Let these reasons sink into your mind, Major, my dear fellow. Yet +withal, your column may be ruined if you are not very careful. Be tender +and patient with your people, for they are as skittish as young colts. +Still, it was with these people, or men like them, that I crossed +Africa--followed the course of the Congo to the sea, and formed the Congo +State." + +"Well, now, say do you think Tippu-Tib will keep his contract, and bring +his 600 people?" asked the Major. + +"You ought to know that as well as I myself. What did he say to you +before you left him?" + +"He said he would be here in nine days, as he told you at Bangala. +Inshallah!" replied the Major, mimicking the Arab. + +"If Tippu-Tib is here in nine days, it will be the biggest wonder I have +met." + +"Why?" asked the Major, looking up half wonderingly. + +"Because to provide 600 carriers is a large order. He will not be here in +fifteen days or even twenty days. We must be reasonable with the man. He +is not an European--taught to be rigidly faithful to his promise. +Inshallah! was it he said? To-morrow--Inshallah means the day after--or +five days hence, or ten days. But what does it matter to you if he does +not come within twenty days? The _Stanley_ will not be here until the +10th, or perhaps the middle of August; that will be about seven +weeks--forty-two days--hence. He has abundance of time. What do you want +to look after 600 men in your camp doing nothing, waiting for the +steamer? Idle men are mischievous. No; wait for him patiently until the +_Stanley_ comes, and if he has not appeared by that time he will not come +at all." + +"But it will be a severe job for us if he does not appear at all, to +carry 500 or 600 loads with 200 carriers, to and fro, backwards and +forwards, day after day! + +"Undoubtedly, my dear Major, it is not a light task by any means. But +which would you prefer; stay here, waiting for us to return from the +Albert, or to proceed little by little--gaining something each day--and +be absorbed in your work?" + +"Oh, my God! I think staying here for months would be a deuced sight the +worse." + +"Exactly what I think, and, therefore, I made these calculations for you. +I assure you, Major, if I were sure that you could find your way to the +Albert, I would not mind doing this work of yours myself, and appoint you +commander of the advance column, rather than have any anxiety about +you." + +"But tell me, Mr. Stanley, how long do you suppose it will be before we +meet?" + +"God knows. None can inform me what lies ahead here, or how far the +forest extends inland. Whether there are any roads, or what kind of +natives, cannibals, incorrigible savages, dwarfs, gorillas. I have not +the least idea. I wish I had; and would give a handsome sum for the +knowledge even. But that paper in your hand, on which I have calculated +how long it will take me to march to the Albert Nyanza, is based on this +fact. In 1874 and 1875 I travelled 720 miles in 103 days. The distance +from here to the Albert Nyanza is about 330 geographical miles in a +straight line. Well, in 1874-75, I travelled 330 geographical +miles--Bagamoyo to Vinyata, in Ituru, in 64 days; from Lake Uhimba to +Ujiji, 330 miles, in 54 days. These were, of course, open countries, with +tolerably fair roads, whereas this is absolutely unknown. Is it all a +forest?--then it will be an awful work. How far does the forest reach +inland? A hundred--two hundred--three hundred miles? There is no answer. +Let us assume we can do the journey to the Albert in three months; that I +am detained a fortnight, and that I am back in three months afterwards. +Well, I shall meet you coming toward me, if Tippu-Tib is not with you, +the latter part of October or November. It is all down on that paper. + +"But it is immaterial. The thing has to be done. We will go ahead, we +will blaze the trees, and mark our track through the forest for you. We +will avail ourselves of every advantage--any path easterly will suit me +until I bore through and through it, and come out on the plains or +pastureland. And where we go, you can go. If we can't go on, you will +hear from us somehow. Are you now satisfied?" + +"Perfectly," he replied. "I have it all here," touching his +forehead--"and this paper and letter will be my reminders. But there is +one thing I should like to speak about, it refers to something you said +to me in London." + +"Ah, indeed. What was said that was in any way peculiar?" I asked. + +"Well"--here there was a little hesitation--"do you remember when Mr. +----, of the India Office, introduced me to you? The words you used +sounded strangely, as though someone had been warning you against me." + +"My dear Barttelot, take my word for it, I don't remember to have heard +the name of Barttelot before I heard your name. But you interest me. What +could I have possibly said that was any way peculiar to cling to your +memory like this? I remember the circumstance well?" + +"The fact is," he said, "you said something about 'forbearance,' which +reminded me that I had heard that word before, when General ---- pitched +into me about punishing a Somali mutineer in the desert during the Soudan +campaign. I was all alone with the Somalis when they turned on me, and I +sprang upon the ringleader at last when there was no other way of +reducing them to order and pistolled him, and at once the Somalis became +quiet as lambs. I thought that General ----, who is not remarkable for +goodwill to me, had mentioned the affair to you." + +"Indeed. I never heard the story before, and I do not understand how +General ---- could have warned me, considering he could not have known +you were going to apply for membership. It was your own face which +inspired the word forbearance. Your friend introduced you to me as a +distinguished officer full of pluck and courage; upon which I said that +those qualities were common characteristics of British officers, but I +would prefer to hear of another quality which would be of equal value for +a peculiar service in Africa--and that was forbearance. You will excuse +me now, I hope, for saying that I read on your face immense determination +and something like pugnacity. Now a pugnacious fellow, though very useful +at times, you know, is not quite so useful for an expedition like +this--which is to work in an atmosphere of irritability--as a man who +knows not only how and when to fight, but also how to forbear. Why, a +thousand causes provoke irritation and friction here between himself and +fellow-officers his own followers and natives, and frequently between +himself and his own person. Here is bad food always, often none at all, a +miserable diet at the best, no stimulant, incessant toil and worry, +intense discomfort, relaxed muscles, weariness amounting to fainting, +and, to cap all, dreadful racking fevers, urging one to curse the day he +ever thought of Africa. A pugnacious man is naturally ill-tempered, and +unless he restrains his instincts, and can control his impulses, he is in +hot water every minute of his existence, and will find cross rubs with +every throb of his heart. To be able to forbear, to keep down rigorously +all bitter feelings, to let the thoughts of his duty, his position, plead +against the indulgence of his passions. Ah, that quality, while it does +not diminish courage, prevents the waste of natural force; but I don't +wish to preach to you, you know what I mean. + +"And now to close--one word more about Tippu-Tib. Do you see that Maxim +out there with its gaping muzzle. I regard Tippu-Tib somewhat as I do +that. It is an excellent weapon for defence. A stream of bullets can be +poured out of it, but it may get jammed, and its mechanism become +deranged from rust or want of good oil. In that event we rely on our +Remingtons, and Winchester Repeaters. If Tippu-Tib is disposed to help +us--he will be a most valuable auxiliary--failure becomes impossible, we +shall complete our work admirably. If he is not disposed, then we must do +what we can with our own men, and goodwill covers a multitude of errors. + +"Do you remember that in 1876 Tippu-Tib broke his contract with me, and +returned to Nyangwe, leaving me alone. Well, with about 130 of my own +men, I drove my way down the Congo despite his sneer. You said you met +Dr. Lenz, the Austrian traveller, at Lamu, after having failed to reach +Emin Pasha. Why did he fail? He relied on Tippu-Tib alone; he had no +private reserve of force to fall back upon. You have over 200 carriers +and 50 soldiers, besides servants and efficient companions. On the Congo +work I was promised a contingent of natives to assist me. Only a few +came, and those deserted; but I had a faithful reserve of sixty-eight +men--they were the fellows who made the Congo State. You remember my +letter to the _Times_, where I said, 'We do not want Tippu-Tib to assist +us in finding Emin Pasha. We want him to carry ammunition, and on his +return to bring away ivory to help pay the expenses of the Mission.' +Then, as a last proof of how I regard Tippu-Tib, do not forget that +written order to Lieutenant Stairs a few days ago, to rake his settlement +with the machine gun upon the least sign of treachery. You have read that +letter. You ought to know that the gage of battle is not thrown in the +face of a trusted friend. + +"Now, Major, my dear fellow, don't be silly. I know you feel sore because +you are not to go with us in the advance. You think you will lose some +_kudos_. Not a bit of it. Ever since King David, those who remain with +the stuff, and those who go to the war, receive the same honours. +Besides, I don't like the word 'kudos.' The kudos impulse is like the pop +of a ginger-beer bottle, good for a V.C. or an Albert medal, but it +effervesces in a month of Africa. It is a damp squib, Major. Think rather +of Tennyson's lines:-- + + "Not once or twice in our fair island story + Has the path of duty been the way to glory." + +There, shake hands upon this, Major. For us the word is 'Right Onward'; +for you 'Patience and Forbearance.' I want my tea. I am dry with +talking." + +On the 25th the stockade was completed all round the camp, the ditch was +approaching completion. Barttelot superintended the works on one side; +Jephson, in shirt-sleeves, looked over another. Nelson was distributing +the European provisions--share and share alike; our Doctor, cheery, +smiling, anxious as though he were at a surgical operation, was +constructing a gate, and performed the carpenter's operation in such a +manner that I wrote in my diary that evening, "He is certainly one of the +best fellows alive." Jameson was busy copying the letter of instructions. +Stairs was in bed with a severe bilious fever. + +A Soudanese soldier, as innocent as a lamb cropping sweet grass before a +fox's covert, trespassed for the sake of loot near a native village, and +was speared through the abdomen. It is the second fatal case resulting +from looting. It will not be our last. We place a Soudanese on guard; +his friend comes along, exchanges a word or two with him, and passes on, +with the completest unconsciousness of danger that can be imagined. If +not slain outright, he returns with a great gash in his body and a look +of death in his face. The Zanzibari is set to labour at cutting wood or +collecting manioc; he presently drops his task, utters an excuse for +withdrawing for a moment--a thought glances across his vacuous mind, and +under the impulse he hastes away, to be reported by-and-by as missing. + +On the 26th I drew out a memorandum for the officers of the Advance +Column, of which the following is a copy:-- + + We propose to commence our march the day after to-morrow, the 28th + of June, 1887. + + The distance we have to traverse is about 330 geographical miles in + an air line--or about 550 miles English, provided we do not find a + path more than ordinarily winding. + + If we make an average of ten miles per day we ought to be able to + reach the Albert within two months. + + In 1871 my Expedition after Livingstone performed 360 English miles + in 54 days = about 6-1/2 miles per day. + + In 1874 my Expedition across Africa performed 360 English miles in + 64 days, viz., from Bagamoyo to Vinyata = 5-3/4 miles per day. + + In 1874-75 the same Expedition reached Lake Victoria from Bagamoyo, + 720 miles distance in 103 days = 7 miles per day. + + In 1876 the same Expedition traversed 360 miles, the distance from + Lake Uhimba to Ujiji in 59 days = 6-1/10 miles per day. + + Therefore if we travel the distance to Kavalli, say 550 miles at an + average of 6 miles per day, we should reach Lake Albert about the + last day of September. + + A conception of the character of more than half of the country to + be traversed may be had by glancing at our surroundings. It will be + a bush and forested country with a native path more or less crooked + connecting the various settlements of the tribes dwelling in it. + + The track now and then will be intersected by others connecting the + tribes north of our route and those south of it. + + The natives will be armed with shields, spears and knives, or with + bows and arrows. + + As our purpose is to march on swiftly through the country, we take + the natives considerably by surprise. They cannot confederate or + meet us in any force, because they will have no time. Whatever + hostilities we may meet will be the outcome of impulse, and that + naturally an angry one. Officers must therefore be prompt to resist + these impulsive attacks, and should at all times now see that their + Winchester magazines are loaded, and their bearers close to them. + Side arms should not be dispensed with on any account. + + The order of the march will be as follows: + + At dawn the _reveille_ will sound as usual. + + First by the Soudanese trumpeter attached to No. 1 Company. + + Second by the bugle attached to Captain Stairs's Company, No. + 2--Captain Stairs. + + Third by the trumpeter attached to the No. 3 Company--Captain + Nelson. + + Fourth by the drummer attached to Captain Jephson's No. 4 Company. + + Officers will feed early on coffee and biscuit, and see that their + men are also strengthening themselves for the journey. + + At 6 A.M. the march of the day will begin, led by a band of 50 + pioneers armed with rifles, bill-hooks and axes, forming the + advance guard under myself. + + The main body will then follow after 15 minutes, led by an officer + whose turn it is to be at the head of it, whose duty will be + specially to see that he follows the route indicated by "blazing" + or otherwise. + + This column will consist of all bearers, and all men sick or well + who are not detailed for rear guard. The major part of three + companies will form the column. Close to the rear of it, keeping + well up, will be the officer whose turn it is to maintain order in + rear of the main body. + + The rear guard will consist of 30 men under an officer selected for + the day to protect the column from attacks in the rear. These men + will not be loaded with anything beyond their private kits. No + member of the Expedition must be passed by the rear guard. All + stragglers must be driven on at all costs, because the person left + behind is irretrievably lost. + + At the head of the main body will be the head-quarter tents and + private luggage, immediately succeeding the officer in command. + This officer will also have to be on the alert for signals by + trumpets, to communicate them to those in the rear, or be ready to + receive signals from the front and pass the word behind. + + The advance guard will "blaze" the path followed, cut down + obstructing creepers, and, on arrival at camp, set to at once for + building the boma or bushfence. As fast as each company arrives + assistance must be given for this important work of defence. No + camp is to be considered complete until it is fenced around by bush + or trees. Those unemployed in this duty will erect tents. + + The boma must be round with two gates well masked by at least five + yards of bush. + + The diameter of the camp should be about 250 feet. Tents and + baggage piled in the centre, the huts will range around an inner + circle of about 200 feet in diameter. + +[Illustration: DIAGRAM OF OUR FOREST CAMPS.] + + The above relates only to the circumstances attending the transit + of a caravan through a dangerous country, unattended by more than + the troubles naturally arising from the impulsive attacks of + savages. + + The pulse of the country which we shall traverse will be felt by + the advance guard, of course. If the obstacles in the front are + serious, and threaten to be something more than a mere impulse, or + temporary, messages will be sent to the main body announcing their + character. + + Wherever practicable we shall camp in villages, if the natives have + deserted them, for the sake of obtaining food, but such villages + must be rendered defensive at once. Officers should remember that + it is in the nature of their black soldiers, Soudanese, Somalis or + Zanzibaris, to be thoughtless and indifferent, to scatter + themselves about in the most heedless manner. They must take my + assurance that more lives are lost in this manner than by open + warfare. Therefore their men's lives I consider are in the hands of + their officers, and the officer who will not relax his energy and + rigid enforcement of orders until everything is made snug and tight + for the night, will be the most valuable assistant in this + Expedition for me. Arriving at the intended halting place for the + night, if a village, the officer should first cast his eyes about + for lodgment of his people; select such as will be uniform with + those already occupied by the preceding company, and those to be + occupied by the succeeding company or companies; then turn to and + destroy all those lying without the occupied circle, or use their + timbers, all material in the vicinity to defend his quarters from + night attack by fire or spear. A cue will be given when and how to + do things by the conduct of the advance guard, but the officer must + not fail to ascertain what this cue is, nor wait to be told every + petty detail. He must consider himself as the Father of his + Company, and act always as a wise leader should act. + + At all such village camps, Lieutenant Stairs will see to the + nightly guards being placed at the more accessible points, every + company serving out details as may be necessary. + + During the first week we will not attempt any very long marches, + that the people and ourselves may be broken in gently, but after a + fourth of the distance has been made the marches will sensibly + lengthen, and I anticipate that, before the half of the journey has + been performed, we shall be capable of making wonderful progress. + + Further memoranda will be furnished when necessary. + + Yambuya. (Signed) Henry M. Stanley. + _June 26th, 1887._ _Commanding Expedition_. + +I close this chapter with a quotation from my diary made on the last +evening. + +"_Yambuya, June 27th._--Our men claimed a holiday to-day because it had +been deferred until the steamers were despatched, and the camp was +fortified for the protection of the garrison. Numbers of things had also +to be done. Companies had to be re-organized, since several had sickened +since leaving Bolobo, the weak had to be picked out, and the four +companies selected for the march ought to be in as perfect condition as +possible. Our pioneer's tools required numbering. Out of one hundred +bill-hooks there were only twenty-six, out of one hundred axes there were +left twenty-two, out of one hundred hoes there were only sixty-one, out +of one hundred shovels there were but sixty-seven. All the rest had been +stolen, and sold to the natives or thrown away. It is a trying work to +look after such reckless people. + +"Three hundred and eighty-nine souls will march to-morrow--God +permitting--into the absolutely unknown. From a native I have heard of +names of tribes, or sections of tribes, but of their strength or +disposition I know nothing. + +"Yesterday we made blood-brotherhood with one of the chiefs of Yambuya. +As the Major was Commandant of the post, he went bravely through the +ceremony, which was particularly disgusting. On the flowing blood a pinch +of dirty salt was placed, and this had to be licked. The chief performed +his part as though he loved it. The Major looked up and saw the cynical +faces of his friends and was mortified. + +"'To ensure peace!' + +"'Even so,' replied the Major, and sacrificed his taste. + +"These forest natives have not been able to win any great regard from me +yet. They are cowardly, and at the same time vicious. They lie oftener +than any open country folk. I do not credit any statement or profession +made by them. At the same time I hope that after better acquaintance +there will be a change. This chief received a liberal gift from the hand +of the Major, and in return he received a fortnight-old chick and a +feathered bonnet of plaited cane. The oft-promised goat and ten fowls had +not yet been seen. And the blood of a Soudanese soldier has been spilled, +and we have not avenged it. We are either so poor in spirit, or so +indifferent to the loss of a man, that a stalwart soldier, worth twenty +of these natives, can be slain unavenged. Not only that, but we entreat +them to come often and visit us, for they have fish and goats, fowls, +eggs, and what not to sell of which we would be buyers. This perhaps will +go on for some weeks more. + +"It is raining to-night, and the morrow's march will be an uncomfortable +one. Stairs is so sick that he cannot move, and yet he is anxious to +accompany us. It is rather rash to undertake carrying a man in his +condition, though, if death is the issue, it comes as easy in the jungle +as in the camp. Dr. Parke has made me exceedingly uncomfortable by saying +that it is enteric fever. I lean to bilious fever. We shall put him in a +hammock and trust for a favourable issue." + +The Advance Force will consist of:-- + + No. 1 company 113 men and boys 99 rifles + " 2 " 90 " 85 " + " 3 " 90 " 87 " + " 4 " 90 " 86 " + Officers--Self 1 " + " Stairs 1 " + " Nelson 1 " + " Jephson 1 " + " Parke 1 " + European servant 1 " + --- --- + 389 " 357 " + + +The garrison of Yambuya consists of:-- + + Soudanese 44 men 44 rifles + Zanzibaris 71 " 38 " + Barttelot's servants 3 " + Jameson's " 2 " + Sowahis 5 " + Sick men 2 " + Barttelot personally 1 " 3 " + Jameson " 1 " 2 " + --- -- + 129 " 87 " + --- -- + + +Contingent at Bolobo to be joined to garrison of Yambuya:-- + + Zanzibaris 128 men and boys 52 rifles + John Rose Troup 1 " + Herbert Ward 1 " + William Bonny 1 " + --- --- + 131 men 52 " + + Advance force 389 men 357 rifles + Yambuya garrison 129 " 87 " + Bolobo, Kinshassa, &c. 131 " 52 " + --- --- + 649 " 496 " + --- --- + Loss of men from Zanzibar to} + Yambuya } 57 " 28 " + --- --- + 706 " 524 " + --- --- + + +----- + [G] She arrived on the 14th of August. Had been detained a + few days by running on a snag. + + [H] Tippu-Tib's 600 carriers. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +TO PANGA FALLS. + + + An African road--Our mode of travelling through the + forests--Farewell to Jameson and the Major--160 days in the + forest--The Rapids of Yambuya--Attacked by natives of + Yankonde--Rest at the village of Bahunga--Description of our + march--The poisoned Skewers-Capture of six Babali--Dr. Parke and + the bees--A tempest in the forest--Mr. Jephson puts the steel boat + together--The village of Bukanda--Refuse heaps of the villages--The + Aruwimi river scenery--Villages of the Bakuti and the Bakoka--The + Rapids of Gwengweré--The boy Bakula-Our "chop and coffee"--The + islands near Bandangi--The Baburu dwarfs--The unknown course of the + river--The Somalis--Bartering at Mariri and Mupé--The Aruwimi at + Mupé--The Babé manners, customs, and dress--Jephson's two + adventures--Wasp Rapids--The chief of the Bwamburi--Our camp at + My-yui--Canoe accident--An abandoned village--Arrival at Panga + Falls--Description of the Falls. + +An African road generally is a foot-track tramped by travel to exceeding +smoothness and hardness as of asphalt when the season is dry. It is only +twelve inches wide from the habit of the natives to travel in single file +one after another. When such a track is old it resembles a winding and +shallow gutter, the centre has been trodden oftener than the +sides--rain-water has rushed along and scoured it out somewhat--the sides +of the path have been raised by humus and dust, the feet of many +passengers have brushed twigs and stones and pressed the dust aside. A +straight path would be shorter than the usual one formed by native travel +by a third in every mile on an average. This is something like what we +hoped to meet in defiling out of the gate of the intrenched camp at +Yambuya, because during four preceding Expeditions into Africa we had +never failed to follow such a track for hundreds of miles. Yambuya +consisted of a series villages. Their inhabitants must have neighbours to +the Eastward as well as to the Southward or Westward. Why not? + +[Illustration: MARCHING THROUGH THE FOREST.] + +We marched out of the gate, company after company in single file. Each +with its flag, its trumpeter or drummer, each with its detail of +supernumeraries, with fifty picked men as advance guard to handle the +bill-hook and axe, to cut saplings, "blaze," or peel a portion of the +bark of a tree a hand's-breadth, to sever the leaves and slash at the +rattan, to remove all obtrusive branches that might interfere with the +free passage of the hundreds of loaded porters, to cut trees to lay +across streams for their passage, to form zeribas or bomas of bush and +branch around the hutted camp at the end of the day's travel. The advance +guard are to find a path, or, if none can be found, to choose the +thinnest portions of the jungle and tunnel through without delay, for it +is most fatiguing to stand in a heated atmosphere with a weighty load on +the head. If no thinner jungle can be found, then through anything, +however impenetrable it may appear; they must be brisk--"chap-chap"--as +we say, or an ominous murmur will rise from the impatient carriers +behind. They must be clever and intelligent in wood-craft; a greenhorn, +or as we call him "goee-goee," must drop his bill-hook, and take the bale +or box. Three hundred weary fellows are not to be trifled with, they must +be brave also--quick to repel assault--arrows are poisonous, spears are +deadly--their eyes must be quick to search the gloom and shade, with +sense alert to recognition, and ready to act on the moment. Dawdlers and +goee-goees are unbearable; they must be young, lithe, springy--my 300 +behind me have no regard for the ancient or the corpulent--they would be +smothered with chaff and suffocated with banter. Scores of voices would +cry out, "Wherein lies this fellow's merit? Is it all in his stomach? +Nay, it is in his wooden back--tut--his head is too big for a scout. He +has clearly been used to hoeing. What does the field hand want on the +Continent? You may see he is only a Banian slave! Nay, he is only a +Consul's freed man! Bosh! he is a mission boy." Their bitter tongues +pierce like swords through the armour of stupidity, and the bill-hooks +with trenchant edges are wielded most manfully, and the bright keen axes +flash and sever the saplings, or slice a broad strip of bark from a tree, +and the bush is pierced, and the jungle gapes open, and fast on their +heels continuously close presses the mile-long caravan. + +This is to be the order, and this the method of the march, and I have +stood observing the files pass by until the last of the rear guard is out +of the camp, and the Major and Jameson and the garrison next crowd out to +exchange the farewell. + +"Now, Major, my dear fellow, we are in for it. Neck or nothing! Remember +your promise and we shall meet before many months." + +"I vow to goodness. I shall be after you sharp. Let me once get those +fellows from Bolobo and nothing shall stop me." + +"Well, then, God bless you--keep a stout heart--and Jameson--old man--the +same to you." + +Captain Nelson, who heard all this, stepped up in his turn to take a +parting grasp, and I strode on to the front, while the Captain placed +himself at the head of the rear guard. + +The column had halted at the end of the villages or rather the road that +Nelson the other day had commenced. + +"Which is the way, guide?" I asked to probably the proudest soul in the +column--for it is a most exalted position to be at the head of the line. +He was in a Greekish costume with a Greekish helmet à la Achilles. + +[Illustration: THE KIRANGOZI, OR FOREMOST MAN.] + +"This, running towards the sunrise," he replied. + +"How many hours to the next village?" + +"God alone knows," he answered. + +"Know ye not one village or country beyond here?" + +"Not one; how should I?" he asked. + +This amounted to what the wisest of us knew. + +"Well, then, set on in the name of God, and God be ever with us. Cling to +any track that leads by the river until we find a road." + +"Bismillah!" echoed the pioneers, the Nubian trumpets blew the signal of +"move on," and shortly the head of the column disappeared into the thick +bush beyond the utmost bounds of the clearings of Yambuya. + +This was on the 28th day of June, and until the 5th of December, for 160 +days, we marched through the forest, bush and jungle, without ever having +seen a bit of greensward of the size of a cottage chamber floor. Nothing +but miles and miles, endless miles of forest, in various stages of growth +and various degrees of altitude, according to the ages of the trees, with +varying thickness of undergrowth according to the character of the trees +which afforded thicker or slighter shade. It is to the description of the +march through this forest and to its strange incidents I propose to +confine myself for the next few chapters, as it is an absolutely unknown +region opened to the gaze and knowledge of civilized man for the first +time since the waters disappeared and were gathered into the seas, and +the earth became dry land. Beseeching the reader's patience, I promise to +be as little tedious as possible, though there is no other manuscript or +missal, printed book or pamphlet, this spring of the year of our Lord +1890, that contains any account of this region of horrors other than this +book of mine. + +With the temperature of 86° in the shade we travelled along a path very +infrequently employed, which wound under dark depths of bush. It was a +slow process, interrupted every few minutes by the tangle. The bill-hooks +and axes, plied by fifty men, were constantly in requisition; the +creepers were slashed remorselessly, lengths of track one hundred yards +or so were as fair as similar extents were difficult. + +At noon we looked round the elbow of the Aruwimi, which is in view of +Yambuya, and saw above, about four miles, another rapid with its glancing +waters as it waved in rollers in the sunshine; the rapids of Yambuya were +a little below us. Beneath the upper rapids quite a fleet of canoes +hovered about it. There was much movement and stir, owing, of course, to +the alarm that the Yambuyas had communicated to their neighbours. At 4 +P.M. we observed that the point we had gazed at abreast of the rapids +consisted of islands. These were now being crowded with the women and +children of Yankondé, whom as yet we had not seen. About a hundred canoes +formed in the stream crowded with native warriors, and followed the +movements of the column as it appeared and disappeared in the light and +into the shadows, jeering, mocking, and teasing. + +The head of the column arrived at the foot of a broad cleared road, +twenty feet wide and three hundred yards long, and at the further end +probably three hundred natives of the town of Yankondé stood +gesticulating, shouting, with drawn bows in their hands. In all my +experience of Africa I had seen nothing of this kind. The pioneers +halted, reflecting, and remarking somewhat after this manner: "What does +this mean? The pagans have carved a broad highway out of the bush to +their town for us, and yet there they are at the other end, ready for a +fight! It is a trap, lads, of some kind, so look sharp." + +With the bush they had cut they had banked and blocked all passage to the +forest on either side of the road for some distance. But, with fifty +pairs of sharp eyes searching around above and below, we were not long in +finding that this apparent highway through the bush bristled with skewers +six inches long sharpened at both ends, which were driven into the ground +half their length, and slightly covered with green leaves so carelessly +thrown over them that we had thought at first these strewn leaves were +simply the effect of clearing bush. + +Forming two lines of twelve men across the road, the first line was +ordered to pick out the skewers, the second line was ordered to cover the +workers with their weapons, and at the first arrow shower to fire. A +dozen scouts were sent on either flank of the road to make their way into +the village through the woods. We had scarcely advanced twenty yards +along the cleared way before volumes of smoke broke out of the town, and +a little cloud of arrows came towards us, but falling short. A volley was +returned, the skewers were fast being picked out, and an advance was +steadily made until we reached the village at the same time that the +scouts rushed out of the underwood, and as all the pioneers were pushed +forward the firing was pretty lively, under cover of which the caravan +pressed through the burning town to a village at its eastern extremity, +as yet unfired. + +Along the river the firing was more deadly. The very noise was sufficient +to frighten a foe so prone as savages to rely on the terrors of sound, +but unfortunately the noise was as hurtful as it was alarming. Very many, +I fear, paid the penalty of the foolish challenge. The blame is +undoubtedly due to the Yambuyas, who must have invented fables of the +most astounding character to cause their neighbours to attempt stopping a +force of nearly four hundred rifles. + +It was nearly 9 P.M. before the rear-guard entered camp. Throughout the +night the usual tactics were resorted to by the savages to create alarm +and disturbance, such as vertically dropping assegais and arrows heavily +tipped with poison, with sudden cries, whoops, howls, menaces, +simultaneous blasts of horn-blowing from different quarters, as though a +general attack was about to be made. Strangers unacquainted with the +craftiness of these forest satyrs might be pardoned for imagining that +daylight only was required for our complete extermination. Some of these +tactics I knew before in younger days, but there was still something to +be gleaned from the craft of these pure pagans. The camp was surrounded +by sentries, and the only orders given were to keep strict silence and +sharpen their eyesight. + +In the morning a narrow escape was reported. A man had wakened to find a +spear buried in the earth, penetrating his sleeping cloth and mat on each +side of him, slightly pinning him to his bedding. Two were slightly +wounded with arrows. + +We wandered about for ten minutes or so looking for a track next morning, +and at last discovered one leading through a vast square mileage of +manioc fields, and at the little village of Bahunga, four miles S.E. of +Yankondé, we gladly rested, our object being not to rush at first setting +out after a long river voyage, but to accustom the people little by +little to the long journey before them. + +On the 30th we lit on a path which connected a series of fourteen +villages, each separate and in line, surrounded by their respective +fields, luxuriant with crops of manioc, or, as some call it, the cassava. +We did not fail to observe, however, that some disaster had occurred many +months before, judging from the traces. The villages we passed through +were mostly newly built, in the sharp, conical--candle-extinguisher--or +rather four-angled spiry type; burnt poles, ruins of the former villages, +marked the sites of former dwellings. Here and there were blazings on +trees, and then I knew that Arabs and Manyuema must have visited +here--probably Tippu-Tib's brother. + +The following day our march was through a similar series of villages, +twelve in number, with a common, well-trodden track running from one to +another. In this distance sections of the primeval forest separated each +village; along the track were pitfalls for some kind of large forest +game, or bow-traps fixed for small animals, such as rabbits, squirrels, +rats, small monkeys. In the neighbourhood of each village the skewers +were plentiful in the ground, but as yet no hurt had been received from +them. + +Another serious inconvenience of forest travel was experienced on this +day. Every fifty yards or so a great tree, its diameter breast high, lay +prostrate across the path over which the donkeys had to be assisted with +a frequency that was becoming decidedly annoying. Between twenty and +fifty of these had to be climbed over by hundreds of men, not all of whom +were equally expert at this novel travelling, and these obstructions by +the delays thus occasioned began to be complained of as very serious +impediments. The main approaches to the many villages were studded with +these poisoned skewers, which made every one except the booted whites +tread most gingerly. Nor could the Europeans be altogether indifferent, +for, slightly leaning, the skewer was quite capable of piercing the +thickest boot-leather and burying the splinters of its head deep in the +foot--an agony of so dreadful a nature that was worth the trouble of +guarding against. + +At 3 P.M. we camped near some pools overhung by water lilies far removed +from a village, having had three wounded during the traverse through the +settlements. + +This morning, about three hours before dawn, the camp was wakened by +howls, and loud and continued horn-blowing. These were shortly after +hushed, and the voices of two men were heard so clear, and distinct that +many like myself attempted to pierce the intense darkness in the vain +effort to see these midnight orators. + +The first Speaker said, "Hey, strangers, where are you going?" + +The Parasite echoed, "Where are you going?" + +_Speaker._ This country has no welcome for you. + +_Parasite._ No welcome for you. + +_Speaker._ All men will be against you. + +_Parasite._ Against you. + +_Speaker._ And you will be surely slain. + +_Parasite._ Surely slain. + +_Speaker._ Ah-ah-ah-ah-ah-aah. + +_Parasite._ Ah-ah-aaah. + +_Speaker._ Ooh-ooh-ooh-ooh-ooooh. + +_Parasite._ Ooh-ooh-ooooooh. + +This parasite was such a palpable parasite, with such a sense of +humour--that it raised such a chorus of laughter so sudden, startling, +and abrupt, that scared speaker and parasite away in precipitate haste. + +At dawn of the 2nd, feeling somewhat uneasy at the fact that the track +which brought us to these pools was not made by man but by elephants, and +feeling certain that the people had made no provision of food beyond the +day, I sent 200 men back to the villages to procure each a load of +manioc. By the manner these men performed this duty, the reflection came +into my mind that they had little or no reasoning faculties, and that not +a half of the 389 people then in the camp would emerge out of Africa. +They were now brimful of life and vitality--their rifles were perfect, +their accoutrements were new, and each possessed 10 rounds of cartridges. +With a little care for their own selves and a small portion of prudence, +there was no reason why they should not nearly all emerge safe and sound, +but they were so crude, stolid, unreasoning, that orders and instructions +were unheeded, except when under actual supervision, and, to supervise +them effectually, I should require 100 English officers of similar +intelligence and devotion to the four then with me. In the meantime they +will lose their lives for trifles which a little sense would avoid, and +until some frightful calamity overtakes them I shall never be able +thoroughly to impress on their minds that to lose life foolishly is a +crime. + +A party of scouts were also sent ahead along the track to observe its +general direction, and, about the same time that the foragers returned, +the scouts returned, having captured six natives in the forest. They +belonged to a tribe called the Babali, and were of a light chocolate in +hue, and were found forming traps for game. + +As we endeavoured to draw from them some information respecting the +country to which the track led, they said, "We have but one heart. Don't +you have two," which meant, Do not speak so fairly to us if you mean any +harm to us, and like all natives they asserted strongly that they did not +eat human meat, but that the custom was practised by the Babanda, Babali, +Babukwa tribes, occupying the bank of the Aruwimi above Yankondé. + +Soon after this interview with the natives, Dr. Parke, observing the bees +which fluttered about, had mentioned to one of his brother officers that +he did not think they stung at all, upon which at the same moment a +vicious bee settling in his neck drove its sting into it to punish him +for his scornful libel. He then came to me and reported the fact as a +good joke, whereupon a second bee attacked and wounded him almost in the +same spot, drawing from him an exclamation of pain. "By Jove! but they +do sting awfully, though." "Just so," said I; "nothing like experience to +stimulate reason." + +After distributing the manioc, with an injunction to boil the roots three +times in different waters, we resumed the march at 1 P.M. and camped at 4 +o'clock. + +The next day left the track and struck through the huge towering forest +and jungly undergrowth by compass. My position in this column was the +third from the leader, so that I could direct the course. In order to +keep a steady movement, even if slow, I had to instruct the cutters that +each man as he walked should choose an obstructing lliané, or obtrusive +branch of bush, and give one sharp cut and pass on--the two head men were +confining themselves to an effective and broad "blaze" on the trees, +every ten yards or so, for the benefit of the column, and, as the rear +party would not follow us for perhaps two months, we were very particular +that these "blazes" should be quite a hand's-breadth peel of bark. + +Naturally penetrating a trackless wild for the first time the march was +at a funereal pace, in some places at the rate of 400 yards an hour, in +other more open portions, that is of less undergrowth, we could travel at +the rate of half, three-quarters, and even a mile per hour--so that from +6.30 A.M. to 11 A.M. when we halted for lunch and rest, and from 12.30 +P.M., to 3 o'clock or 4 P.M. in from six to seven hours per day, we could +make a march of about five miles. On the usual African track seen in +other regions we could have gone from fourteen to eighteen miles during +the same time. Therefore our object was to keep by settlements, not only +to be assured of food, but in the hope of utilizing the native roads. We +shall see later how we fared. + +At 4 P.M. of this day we were still on the march, having passed through a +wilderness of creeks, mud, thick scum-faced quagmires green with duckweed +into which we sank knee-deep, and the stench exhaled from the fetid +slough was most sickening. We had just emerged out of this baneful +stretch of marshy ground, intersected by lazy creeks and shallow long +stream-shaped pools, when the forest became suddenly darkened, so dark +that I could scarcely read the compass, and a distant murmur increasing +into loud soughing and wrestling and tossing of branches and groaning of +mighty trees warned us of the approach of a tempest. As the ground round +about was most uninviting, we had to press on through the increasing +gloom, and then, as the rain began to drip, we commenced to form camp. +The tents were hastily pitched over the short scrubby bush, while +bill-hooks crashed and axes rang, clearing a space for the camp. The rain +was cold and heavily dripped, and every drop, large as a dollar on their +cotton clothes, sent a shiver through the men. The thunder roared above, +the lightning flashed a vivid light of fire through the darkness, and +still the weary hungry caravan filed in until 9 o'clock. The rain was so +heavy that fires could not be lit, and until three in the morning we sat +huddled and crouching amid the cold, damp, and reeking exhalations and +minute spray. Then bonfires were kindled, and around these scores of +flaming pyramids the people sat, to be warmed into hilarious animation, +to roast the bitter manioc, and to still the gnawing pain of their +stomachs. + +On the 4th we struck N. by E., and in an hour heard natives singing in +concert afar off. We sent scouts ahead to ascertain what it meant. We +presently heard firing which seemed to approach nearer. We mustered the +men in the nearest company, stacked goods and deployed them as +skirmishers. Then messengers came and reported that the scouts had struck +the river, and, as they were looking upon it, a canoe advanced into view +with its crew standing with drawn bows and fixed arrows, which were flown +at them at once, and compelled the scouts to fire. We then resumed the +march, and at 8 A.M. we were on the river again, in time to see a line of +native canoes disappearing round a bend on the opposite bank, and one +canoe abandoned tied to the bank with a goat. + +Observing that the river was calm and free from rapids, and desirous of +saving the people from as much labour as circumstances would offer, the +steel boat sections were brought up to the bank, and Mr. Jephson, whose +company had special charge of the _Advance_, commenced to fit the +sections together. In an hour the forty-four burdens, which the vessel +formed, had been attached together and fitted to their respective places +and launched. As the boat weighed forty-four loads and had a capacity of +fifty loads, and at least ten sick, we could then release ninety-eight +people from the fatigue of bearing loads and carrying Lieutenant Stairs, +who was still very ill. Mr. Jephson and crew were despatched across river +and the goat secured. + +As the _Advance_ was in the river, it was necessary for the column to +cling to the bank, not only for the protection of the boat, but to be +able to utilize the stream for lessening labour. Want of regular food, +lack of variety, and its poor nutritive qualities, coupled with the +urgency which drove us on, requiring long marches and their resulting +fatigue, would soon diminish the strength of the stoutest. A due regard +for the people therefore must be shown, and every means available for +their assistance must be employed. Therefore, the boat keeping pace with +the column, we travelled up-stream until 3 P.M. and camped. + +On the 5th the boat and column moved up, as on the day previous, and made +six-and-half miles. The river continued to be from 500 to 800 yards wide. +The bank was a trifle more open than in the interior, though frequently +it was impossible to move before an impenetrable mass of jungle had been +tunnelled to allow our passage under the vault of close network of branch +and climber, cane, and reed above. At 2.30 we reached the village of +Bukanda. We had come across no track, but had simply burst out of the +bush and a somewhat young forest with a clearing. In the middle of the +clearing by the river side was the village. This fact made me think, and +it suggested that if tracks were not discoverable by land, and as the +people were not known to possess the power of aerial locomotion, that +communication was maintained by water. + +[Illustration: IN THE NIGHT AND RAIN IN THE FOREST.] + +We had reason to rejoice at the discovery of a village, for since the 2nd +the caravan subsisted on such tubers of manioc as each man took with him +on that date. Had another day passed without meeting with a clearing we +should have suffered from hunger. + +It was evening before the boat appeared, the passage of rapids and an +adventure with a flotilla of eleven canoes had detained her. The canoes +had been abandoned in consequence, and the commander of the boat had +secured them to an island. One was reported to be a capacious hollow log, +capable of carrying nearly as much as the boat. Since the river was the +highway of the natives, we should be wise to employ the stream, by which +we should save our men, and carry our sick as well as a reserve of food. +For we had been narrowly brought to the verge of want on the last day, +and we were utter strangers in a strange land, groping our way through +darkness. The boat was sent back with an extra crew to secure the canoe +and paddle her up to our camp. + +Of course Bukanda had been abandoned long before we reached it--the +village of cone huts was at our disposal--the field of manioc also. This +custom also was unlike anything I had seen in Africa before. Previously +the natives may have retired with their women, but the males had remained +with spear and target, representing ownership. Here the very fowls had +taken to flight. It was clearly a region unsuitable for the study of +ethnology. + +At noon of the 6th we defiled out of Bukanda refurnished with provisions, +and two hours later were in camp in uninhabited space. We had devoted the +morning to cleaning and repairing rifles--many of whose springs were +broken. + +Some facts had already impressed themselves upon us. We observed that the +mornings were muggy and misty--that we were chilly and inclined to be +cheerless in consequence; that it required some moral courage to leave +camp to brave the cold, damp, and fogginess without, to brave the mud and +slush, to ford creeks up to the waist in water; that the feelings were +terribly depressed in the dismal twilight from the want of brightness +and sunshine warmth; and the depression caused by the sombre clouds and +dull grey river which reflected the drear daylight. The actual +temperature on these cold mornings was but seventy to seventy-two +degrees--had we judged of it by our cheerlessness it might have been +twenty degrees less. + +The refuse heaps of the little villages were large and piled on the edge +of the bank. They were a compost of filth, sweepings of streets and huts, +peelings of manioc, and often of plantains with a high heap of +oyster-shells. Had I not much else to write about, an interesting chapter +on these composts, and the morals, manners, and usages of the aborigines +might be written. Just as Owen could prefigure an extinct mammoth of the +dead ages from the view of a few bones, the history of a tribe could be +developed by me out of these refuse heaps. Revelling in these fetid +exhalations were representatives of many insect tribes. Columns of ants +wound in and out with more exact formation than aborigines could compose +themselves, flies buzz in myriads over the heaps, with the murmur of +enjoyment, butterflies which would have delighted Jameson's soul swarmed +exulting in their gorgeous colours, and a perfect cloud of moths hovered +above all. + +The villages of the Bakuti were reached on the 7th, after seven hours' +slow marching and incessant cutting. I occupied a seat in the boat on +this day and observed that the banks were from six to ten feet above the +river on either side, that there were numerous traces of former +occupation easily detected despite the luxuriance of the young forest +that had grown up and usurped the space once occupied by villages and +fields; that either wars or epidemics had disturbed the inhabitants +twenty years ago, and that as yet only one crocodile had been seen on the +Aruwimi, and only one hippo, which I took to be a sure sign that there +was not much pasture in this region. + +As the rowers urged the boat gently up the stream, and I heard the +bill-hooks and axes carving away through bush and brake tangle and +forest without which scarcely a yard of progress could be made, I +regretted more than ever that I had not insisted on being allowed to +carry out my own plan of having fifteen whale-boats. What toil would have +been saved, and what anxiety would have been spared me. + +On the 9th we gained, after another seven hours' toiling and marching, +the villages of the Bakoka. Already the people began to look jaded and +seedy. Skewers had penetrated the feet of several, ulcers began to +attract notice by their growing virulence, many people complained of +curious affections in the limbs. Stairs was slowly recovering. + +We had passed so many abandoned clearings that our expedition might have +been supported for weeks by the manioc which no owner claimed. It was +very clear that internecine strife had caused the migrations of the +tribes. The Bakoka villages were all stockaded, and the entrance gates +were extremely low. + +The next day we passed by four villages all closely stockaded, and on the +10th came to the rapids of Gwengweré. Here there were seven large +villages bordering the rapids and extending from below to above the +broken water. All the population had fled probably to the opposite main, +or to the islands in mid-river, and every portable article was carried +away except the usual wreckage of coarse pottery, stools, and benches, +and back rests. The stockades were in good order and villages intact. In +one large village there were 210 conical huts, and two square sheds used +for public assemblies and smithies. This occupied a commanding bluff +sixty feet above the river, and a splendid view of a dark grey silver +stream, flanked by dense and lofty walls of thickest greenest vegetation, +was obtained. + +Lieutenant Stairs was fast recovering from his long attack of bilious +fever; my other companions enjoyed the best of health, though our diet +consisted of vegetables, leaves of the manioc and herbs bruised and made +into patties. But on this day we had a dish of weaver-birds furnished by +the Doctor, who with his shot-gun bagged a few of the thousands which +had made their nests on the village trees. + +On the 11th we marched about a mile to give the canoemen a chance to pole +their vessels through the rapids and the column a rest. The day following +marched six geographical miles, the river turning easterly, which was our +course. Several small rapids were passed without accident. As we were +disappearing from view of Gwengweré, the population was seen scurrying +from the right bank and islands back to their homes, which they had +temporarily vacated for our convenience. It seemed to me to be an +excellent arrangement. It saved trouble of speech, exerted possibly in +useless efforts for peace and tedious chaffer. They had only one night's +inconvenience, and were there many caravans advancing as peaceably as we +were, natural curiosity would in time induce them to come forward to be +acquainted with the strangers. + +Our people found abundant to eat in the fields, and around the villages. +The area devoted to cultivation was extensive: plantains flourished +around the stockades; herbs for potage were found in little plots close +to the villages; also sufficient tobacco for smoking, and pumpkins for +dessert, and a little Indian corn; but, alas, we all suffered from want +of meat. + +There were few aquatic birds to be seen. There were some few specimens of +divers, fish eagles, and kingfishers. Somewhere, at a distance, a pair of +ibis screamed; flocks of parrots whistled and jabbered in vain struggles +to rob the solitude of the vast trackless forest of its oppressive +silence; whip-poor-wills, and sunbirds, and weavers aided them with their +varied strains; but insects, and flies, and moths were innumerable. + +On the 12th we moved up as usual, starting at 6.30 A.M., the caravan +preceding the boat and its consorts. Though proceeding only at the rate +of a mile and a half per hour, we soon overhauled the struggling caravan, +and passed the foremost of the pioneers. At 10 A.M. we met a native boy, +called Bakula, of about fifteen years, floating down river on a piece of +a canoe. He sprung aboard our boat with alacrity, and used his paddle +properly. An hour later we rounded the lowest point of a lengthy curve, +bristling with numerous large villages. The boy volunteer who had dropped +to our aid from the unknown, called the lower village Bandangi, the next +Ndumba, and the long row of villages above, the houses of the Banalya +tribe. But all were deserted. We halted at Bandangi for lunch, and at 2 +P.M. resumed our journey. + +An hour's pull brought us to the upper village, where we camped. Our +river party on this day numbered forty men; but, as we landed, we were +lost in the large and silent village. I had counted thirteen +villages--one of these numbered 180 huts. Assuming that in this curve +there were 1300 huts, and allowing only four persons to each hut, we have +a population of 5200. + +At 5.30 appeared the advance guard of the column, and presently a furious +tempest visited us, with such violent accompaniments of thunder and +lightning as might have been expected to be necessary to clear the +atmosphere charged with the collected vapours of this humid +region--through which the sun appeared daily as through a thick veil. +Therefore the explosive force of the electric fluid was terrific. All +about us, and at all points, it lightened and shattered with deafening +explosions, and blinding forks of flame the thick, sluggish, vaporous +clouds. Nothing less than excessive energy of concentrated electricity +could have cleared the heavy atmosphere, and allowed the inhabitants of +the land to see the colour of the sky, and to feel the cheering influence +of the sun. For four hours we had to endure the dreadful bursts; while a +steady stream of rain relieved the surcharged masses that had hung +incumbent above us for days. While the river party and advance guard were +housed in the upper village, the rear guard and No. 4 Company occupied +Bandangi, at the town end of the _crescent_, and we heard them shooting +minute guns to warn us of their presence; while we vainly, for economical +reasons, replied with the tooting of long ivory horns. + +Such a large population naturally owned exclusive fields of manioc, +plantations of bananas, and plantains, sugar-cane, gardens of herbs, and +Indian corn, and as the heavy rain had saturated the ground, a halt was +ordered. + +By nine o'clock the rear guard was known to have arrived by Nelson's +voice crying out for "chop and coffee"--our chop consisted of cassava +cakes, a plantain or so roasted, and a mess of garden greens, with tea or +coffee. Flesh of goat or fowl was simply unprocurable. Neither bird nor +beast of any kind was to be obtained. Hitherto only two crocodiles and +but one hippo had been discovered, but no elephant, buffalo, or antelope +or wild hog, though tracks were numerous. How could it be otherwise with +the pioneers' shouts, cries, noise of cutting and crushing, and pounding +of trees, the murmur of a large caravan? With the continuous gossip, +storytelling, wrangling, laughing or wailing that were maintained during +the march, it was simply impossible. Progress through the undergrowth was +denied without a heavy knife, machette, or bill-hook to sever entangling +creepers and while an animal may have been only a few feet off on the +other side of a bush, vain was the attempt to obtain view of it through +impervious masses of vegetation. + +In our boat I employed the halt for examining the islands near Bandangi. +We discovered lengthy heaps of oyster-shells on one island, one of which +was sixty feet long, ten feet wide, and four feet high; we can imagine +the feasts of the bivalves that the aborigines enjoyed during their +picnics, and the length of time that had elapsed since the first bivalve +had been eaten. On my return I noticed through a bank-slip in the centre +of the curve a stratum of oyster-shell buried three feet under alluvium. + +Our native boy Bakula, informed us that inland north lived the Baburu, +who were very different from the river tribes, that up river, a month's +journey, would be found dwarfs about two feet high, with long beards; +that he had once journeyed as far as Panga where the river tumbled from a +height as high as the tallest tree, that the Aruwimi was now called Lui +by the people of the left bank, but that to the Baburu on the right bank +it was known as the Luhali. Bakula was an exceptionally crafty lad, a +pure cannibal, to whom a mess of human meat would have been delectable. +He was a perfect mimic, and had by native cunning protected himself by +conforming readily to what he divined would be pleasing to the strangers +by whom he was surrounded. Had all the native tribes adopted this boy's +policy our passage through these novel lands would have been as pleasant +as could be desired. I have no doubt that they possessed all the arts of +craft which we admired in Bakula, they had simply not the courage to do +what an accident had enabled him to carry out. + +From Chief Bambi's town of the Banalya we moved to Bungangeta villages by +river and land on the 15th. It was a stern and sombre morning, gloomy +with lowering and heavy clouds. It struck me on this dull dreary morning, +while regarding the silent flowing waters of the dark river and the long +unbroken forest frontage, that nature in this region seems to be waiting +the long expected trumpet-call of civilization--that appointed time when +she shall awake to her duties, as in other portions of the earth. I +compared this waiting attitude to the stillness preceding the dawn, +before the insect and animal life is astir to fret the air with its +murmur, before the day has awakened the million minute passions of the +wilds; at that hour when even Time seems to be drowsy and nodding, our +inmost thoughts appear to be loud, and the heart throbs to be clamorous. +But when the young day peeps forth white and gray in the East the eyelids +of the world lift up. There is a movement and a hum of invisible life, +and all the earth seems wakened from its brooding. But withal, the forest +world remains restful, and Nature bides her day, and the river shows no +life; unlike Rip Van Winkle, Nature, despite her immeasurably long ages +of sleep, indicates no agedness, so old, incredibly old, she is still a +virgin locked in innocent repose. + +What expansive wastes of rich productive land lie in this region unheeded +by man! Populous though the river banks are, they are but slightly +disturbed by labour--a trifling grubbing of parts of the foreshore, a +limited acreage for manioc, within a crater-like area in the bosom of the +dark woods, and a narrow line of small cotes, wherein the savages huddle +within their narrow circumference. + +One of my amusements in the boat was to sketch the unknown course of the +river--for as the aborigines disappeared like rats into their holes on +one's approach I could gain no information respecting it. How far was it +permissible for me to deviate from my course? By the river I could assist +the ailing and relieve the strong. The goods could be transported and the +feeble conveyed. Reserves of manioc and plantain could also be carried. +But would a somewhat long curve, winding as high as some forty or fifty +geographical miles north of our course, be compensated by these +advantages of relief of the porters, and the abundance of provisions that +are assuredly found on the banks? When I noted the number of the sick, +and saw the jaded condition of the people, I felt that if the river +ascended as far as 2° N., it was infinitely preferable to plunging into +the centre of the forest. + +The temperature of the air during the clouded morning was 75°, surface of +the river 77°. What a relief it was to breathe the air of the river after +a night spent in inhaling the close impure air in the forest by night! + +On the 16th we possessed one boat and five canoes, carrying seventy-four +men and 120 loads, so that with the weight of the boat sections, half of +our men were relieved of loads, and carried nothing every alternative +day. We passed by the mouth of a considerable affluent from the +south-east, and camped a mile above it. The temperature rose to 94° in +the afternoon, and as a consequence rain fell in torrents, preceded by +the usual thunder roars and lightning flashes. Until 1 P.M. of the 17th +the rain fell unceasingly. It would have been interesting to have +ascertained the number of inches that fell during these nineteen hours' +rain-pour. Few of the people enjoyed any rest; there was a general +wringing of blankets and clothes after it ceased, but it was some hours +before they recovered their usual animation. The aborigines must have +been also depressed, owing to our vicinity, though if they had known what +wealth we possessed, they might have freely parted with their goats and +fowls for our wares. + +The column camped at 3 P.M. opposite the settlement of Lower Mariri. +Besides their immense wooden drums, which sounded the alarm to a ten-mile +distance, the natives vociferated with unusual powers of lung, so that +their cries could be heard a mile off. The absence of all other noises +lends peculiar power to their voices. + +The Somalis, who are such excellent and efficient servants in lands like +the Masai, or dry regions like the Soudan, are perfectly useless in humid +regions. Five of them declined to stay at Yambuya, and insisted on +accompanying me. Since we had taken to the river I had employed them as +boatmen, or rather did employ them when they were able to handle a paddle +or a pole, but their physical powers soon collapsed, and they became mere +passengers. On shore, without having undergone any exertion, they were so +prostrated after a two hours' river voyage, that they were unable to rig +shelter against rain and damp, and as they were thievish the Zanzibaris +refused to permit them to approach their huts. The result was that we had +the trouble each day to see that a share of food even was doled out to +them, as they would have voluntarily starved rather than cut down the +plantains above their heads. + +From opposite Lower Mariri we journeyed to a spot ten miles below the +Upper Mariri on the 18th. The canoes had only occupied 4 h. 15 m., but +the land column did not appear at all. + +On the 19th I employed the boat and canoe crews to cut a road to above a +section of the rapids of Upper Mariri. This was accomplished in 2-1/2 +hours. We returned to camp in 45 minutes. Our pace going up was similar +to that of the caravan, consequently an ordinary day's travel through the +forest would be six miles. On returning to camp formed the column, and +marched it to the end of our paths; the boat and canoes were punted up +the rapids without accident, and in the afternoon the people foraged for +food at a village a mile and a half above camp with happy results. On the +20th the advance column marched up and occupied the village. + +About two hours after arrival some of the natives of Mariri came in a +canoe and hailed us. We replied through Bakula, the native boy, and in a +short time were able to purchase a couple of fowls, and during the +afternoon were able to purchase three more. This was the first barter we +had been able to effect on the Aruwimi. Mariri is a large settlement +abounding in plantains, while at our village there were none. Two men, +Charlie No. 1 and Musa bin Juma disappeared on this day. Within +twenty-three days we had not lost a man. + +No casualty had as yet happened, and good fortune, which had hitherto +clung to us, from this date began to desert us. We were under the +impression that those men had been captured by natives, and their +heedless conduct was the text of a sermon preached to the men next +morning when they were mustered for the march. It was not until thirteen +months later that we knew that they had deserted, that they had succeeded +in reaching Yambuya, and had invented the most marvellous tales of wars +and disasters, which, when repeated by the officers at Yambuya in their +letter to the Committee, created so much anxiety. Had I believed it had +been possible that two messengers could have performed that march, we +certainly had availed ourselves of the fact to have communicated +authentic news and chart of the route to Major Barttelot, who in another +month would be leaving his camp as we believed. From the village opposite +Upper Mariri we proceeded to S. Mupé, a large settlement consisting of +several villages, embowered in plantations. The chiefs of Mupé are Mbadu, +Alimba, and Mangrudi. + +On the 22nd Surgeon Parke was the officer of the day, and was unfortunate +enough to miss the river, and strike through the forest in a wrong +direction. He finally struck a track on which the scouts found a woman +and a large-eyed, brown-coloured child. The woman showed the route to the +river, and was afterwards released. Through her influence the natives of +N. Mupé on the right bank were induced to trade with us, by which we were +enabled to procure a dozen fowls and two eggs. + +The bed of the river in this locality is an undisturbed rock of +fine-grained and hard, brick-coloured sandstone. This is the reason that +the little rapids, though frequent enough, present but little obstacles +to navigation. The banks at several places rose to about forty feet above +the river, and the rock is seen in horizontal strata in bluffy form, in +many instances like crumbling ruins of cut stone. + +The sign of peace with these riverine natives appears to be the pouring +of water on their heads with their hands. As new-comers approached our +camp they cried out, "We suffer from famine, we have no food, but up +river you will find plenty, Oh, 'monomopote'! (son of the sea)." "But we +suffer from want of food, and have not the strength to proceed unless you +give us some," we replied. Whereupon they threw us fat ears of Indian +corn, plantains, and sugar-cane. This was preliminary to a trade, in +doing which these apparently unsophisticated natives were as sharp and as +exorbitant as any of the Wyyanzi on the Congo. The natives of Mupé are +called Babé. + +Trifles, such as empty sardine boxes, jam and milk cans, and cartridge +cases, were easily barterable for sugar-cane, Indian corn, and tobacco. A +cotton handkerchief would buy a fowl, goats were brought to our view, but +not parted with. They are said to be the monopoly of chiefs. The natives +showed no fixed desire for any speciality but cloth--gaudy red +handkerchiefs. We saw some cowries among them, and in the bottom of a +canoe we found a piece of an infantry officer's sword nine inches long. +We should have been delighted to have heard the history of that sword, +and the list of its owners since it left Birmingham. But we could not +maintain any lengthy conversation with them, our ignorance of the +language, and their excitability prevented us from doing more than +observing and interchanging words relating to peace and food with them. +We can accept the bit of sword blade as evidence that their neighbours in +the interior have had some contact with the Soudanese. + +Neither in manners, customs or dress was there any very great difference +between these natives and those belonging to the upper parts of the Upper +Congo. Their head-dresses were of basket work decorated with red parrot +feathers, monkey skin caps of grey or dark fur, with the tails drooping +behind. The neck, arm and ankle ornaments were of polished iron, rarely +of copper, never of brass. + +[Illustration: HEAD-DRESS--CROWN OF BRISTLES.] + +[Illustration: PADDLE OF THE UPPER ARUWIMI OR ITURI.] + +They make beautiful paddles, finely carved like a long pointed leaf. +"Senneneh" was the peaceful hail as in Manyuema, Uregga and Usongora, +above Stanley Falls. The complexion of these natives is more ochreous +than black. When a body of them is seen on the opposite bank, there is +little difference of colour between their bodies and the reddish clayey +soil of the landing-place. Much of this is due to the Camwood powder, and +with this mixed with oil they perform their toilet. But protection from +sunshine considerably contributes to this light colour. The native boy, +Bakula, for instance, was deprived of this universal cosmetic made of +Camwood, and he was much lighter than the average of our Zanzibaris. + +On the 24th, Mr. Jephson led the van of the column, and under his +guidance we made the astonishing march of seven and a half geographical +miles--the column having been compelled to wade through seventeen streams +and creeks. During these days Jephson exhibited a marvellous vigour. He +was in many things an exact duplicate of myself in my younger days, +before years and hundreds of fevers had cooled my burning blood. He is +exactly of my own height, build and weight and temperament. He is +sanguine, confident, and loves hard work. He is simply indefatigable, and +whether it is slushy mire or a muddy creek, in he enters, without +hesitation, up to his knees, waist, neck or overhead it is all the same. +A sybarite, dainty and fastidious in civilization, a traveller and +labourer in Africa, he requires to be restrained and counselled for his +own sake. Now these young men, Stairs, Nelson and Parke, are very much in +the same way. Stairs is the military officer, alert, intelligent, who +understands a hint, a curt intimation, grasps an idea firmly and realizes +it to perfection. Nelson is a centurion as of old Roman times, he can +execute because it is the will of his chief; he does not stay to ask the +reason why; he only understands it to be a necessity, and his great +vigour, strength, resolution, plain, good sense is at my disposal, to +act, suffer or die; and Parke, noble, gentle soul, so tender and devoted, +so patient, so sweet in mood and brave in temper, always enduring and +effusing comfort as he moves through our atmosphere of suffering and +pain. No four men ever entered Africa with such qualities as these. No +leader ever had cause to bless his stars as I. + +On this day Jephson had two adventures. In his usual free, impulsive +manner, and with swinging gait he was directing the pioneers--crushing +through the jungle, indifferent to his costume, when he suddenly sank out +of sight into an elephant pit! We might have imagined a playful and +sportive young elephant crashing through the bushes, rending and tearing +young saplings, and suddenly disappearing from the view of his more staid +mamma. Jephson had intelligence, however, and aid was at hand, and he was +pulled out none the worse. It was a mere amusing incident to be detailed +in camp and to provoke a laugh. + +He rushed ahead of the pioneers to trace the course to be followed, and +presently encountered a tall native, with a spear in his hand, face to +face. Both were so astonished as to be paralysed, but Jephson's impulse +was that of a Berseker. He flung himself, unarmed, upon the native, who, +eluding his grasp, ran from him, as he would from a lion, headlong down a +steep bank into a creek, Jephson following. But the clayey soil was damp +and slippery, his foot slipped, and the gallant Captain of the _Advance_ +measured his length face downwards with his feet up the slope, and such +was his impetus that he slid down to the edge of the creek. When he +recovered himself it was to behold the denizen of the woods, hurrying up +the opposite bank and casting wild eyes at this sudden pale-faced +apparition who had so disturbed him as he brooded over the prospect of +finding game in his traps that day. + +Our camp on this day was a favourite haunt of elephants from time +immemorial. It was near a point round which the river raced with strong +swirling currents. A long view of a broad silent river is seen upward, +and one of a river disparted by a series of islands below. + +On the 25th Captain Nelson led the column, Jephson was requested to +assist me with the long narrow canoes laden with valuable goods, and to +direct some of the unskilful "lubbers" who formed our crews. The boat led +the way anchored above the dangerous and swirly point, and cast the +manilla rope to the canoe crew, who, hauling by this cord drew the canoes +to quiet water. Then rowing hard against the strong currents, at 11 A.M. +we caught the head of the caravan gathered on the bank of a wide and dark +sluggish creek, the Rendi, which lazily flowed out of dark depths of +woods. By one o'clock the ferriage was completed, and the column resumed +its march, while we, on the river, betook ourselves to further struggles +with the dangerous waves and reefs of what is now called Wasp Rapids, +from the following incident. + +These rapids extended for a stretch of two miles. Above them were the +villages which became the scene of a tragic strife, as will be learned +later in a subsequent chapter, and these settlements were the dear +objects of our aims in order to obtain shelter and food. + +Our first efforts against the rapids were successful. The current was +swift and dangerous, breaking out into great waves now and then. For the +first half-hour we were successful. Then began a struggle, rowing on one +side hard and the starboard side crew grasping at overhanging bushes, two +men poling, two men on the decked bow, with boat-hooks outstretched with +their fangs ready to snatch at saplings for firm hold. I steered. We +advanced slowly but steadily, a narrow rushing branch between rocky +islets, and the bank was before us which raced over a reef, showing +itself in yard square dots of rock above the waves. We elected to ascend +this as in view of a capsize there was less fear of drowning. With noble +spirits braced for an exciting encounter, we entered it. Eager hands were +held out to catch at the branches, but at the first clutch there issued +at this critical moment an army of fierce spiteful wasps and settled on +our faces, hands, and bodies, every vulnerable spot, and stung us with +the venom of fiends. Maddened and infuriated by the burning stings, +battling with this vicious enemy, beset by reefs, and rocks, and +dangerous waves, and whirling vortexes, we tore on with tooth and nail, +and in a few minutes were a hundred yards above the awful spot. Then, +clinging to the trees, we halted to breathe and sympathise with each +other, and exchange views and opinions on the various stings of insects, +bees, hornets, and wasps. + +One asked my servant with a grim smile, "Did you say the other day that +you believed there was much honey in these brown paper nests of the +wasps? Well, what do you think of the honey now? don't you think it is +rather a bitter sort?" This raised a general laugh. We recovered our good +temper, and resumed our work, and in an hour reached the village which +the land party had occupied. The canoes crews, who followed us, seeing +the battle with the wasps, fled across river, and ascended by the right +bank. But the Somalis and Soudanese, more trustful in Allah, bravely +followed our track, and were dreadfully stung; still, they were consoled +by being able to exult over the Zanzibaris, the leader of which was +Uledi, of the "Dark Continent." + +[Illustration: WASPS' NESTS, ETC.] + +"Oh," I remarked to Uledi, "it is not a brave thing you have done this +day--to fly away from wasps." + +"Oh, sir," he replied, "naked manhood is nowhere in such a scrape as +that. Wasps are more dangerous than the most savage men." + +The native settlement on the left bank is called Bandeya; the one facing +opposite consists of the villages of the Bwamburi. North of the Bwamburi, +a day's march, begins the tribes of the Ababua and the Mabode, who have a +different kind of architecture from the steeply conical huts prevailing +among the riverine tribes. The Mabodé are said to possess square houses +with gable roofs, the walls are neatly plastered, and along the fronts +are clay verandahs. + +On the 26th we halted to rest and recuperate. Those of us who were +attacked by the wasps suffered from a fever; the coxswain of the boat was +in great distress. The following day the chief of the Bwamburi came over +to pay us a visit, and brought us as a gift a month old chick, which was +declined on the ground that we should feel we were robbing him were we to +accept such a gift from a professedly poor man. His ornaments consisted +of two small ivory tusks planed flat and polished, which hung suspended +from a string made of grass encircling his neck. His head-dress was a +long-haired monkey skin. We exchanged professions of amity and +brotherhood, and commenced the march, and camped opposite Mukupi, a +settlement possessing eight villages, on the 28th. + +Two sturdy prisoners imparted to us strange information of a large lake +called "No-uma," as being situate somewhere in the neighbourhood of a +place called Panga. It was said to be many days' journey in extent. In +the centre was a large island, so infested with serpents that natives +dreaded to go near it; that from it flowed the Nepoko into the Nowellé, +the name now given to the Aruwimi. After several days' march we +discovered that the lake story was a myth, and that the Nepoko did not +flow from the left bank of the Aruwimi. + +Our camp on the 29th was opposite My-yui, a series of villages embowered +amongst banana groves on the right bank. It was not long before we struck +an acquaintance with this tribe. We quickly recognized a disposition on +the part of the aborigines to be sociable. A good report of our doings +had preceded us. Trade commenced very pleasantly. Our people had cowries, +beads, and brass rods, besides strange trifles to exchange for food. When +the land column arrived, prices advanced somewhat, owing to the greater +demand. It was reported that there were no settlements between our camp +opposite My-yui and Panga; that we should be nine days performing the +journey through the forest. + +The next morning the bartering was resumed, because we wished to prepare +provisions for several days; new ration currency had already been +distributed to each man. But we were astonished to find that only three +ears of Indian corn were given on this day for a brass rod twenty-eight +inches in length, of the thickness of telegraph wire. At Bangala such a +brass rod would have purchased five days' provisions per man in my days, +and here was a settlement in the wilds where we could only obtain three +ears of corn! For one fowl brass rods were demanded. Cowries were not +accepted; beads they declined. The men were ravenously hungry; there were +nine days' wilderness ahead. Wasp rapids was the nearest place below. We +expostulated, but they were firm. The men then began to sell their +cartridge-pouches for two plantains each. They were detected selling +their ammunition at the rate of one cartridge for an ear of corn; a tin +canteen purchased two. Bill-hooks and axes went next, and ruin stared in +the face. The natives were driven away; one of Mugwye's (the chiefs) +principal slaves was lifted out of his canoe by a gigantic Zanzibari, and +word was sent to the natives that if there were no fair sales of food +made as on the first day, that the prisoner would be taken away, and that +we should cross over and help ourselves. + +Having waited all the afternoon for the reappearance of food, we embarked +at dawn on the 31st with two full companies, entered My-yui, and +despatched the foragers. By 3 P.M. there was food enough in the camp for +ten days. + +In the afternoon of the 1st of August, the advance column was encamped +opposite Mambanga. The river party met with an accident. Careless +Soudanese were capsized, and one of the Zanzibari steersmen disobeying +orders shoved his canoe under the branchy trees which spread out from the +bank to the distance of fifty feet; and by the swift current was driven +against a submerged branch, and capsized, causing a loss of valuable +property--some of them being fine beads, worth four shillings a necklace. +Six rifles were also lost. + +The first death in the advance column occurred on the 2nd August, the +36th day of departure from Yambuya, which was a most extraordinary +immunity considering the hardship and privations to which we were all +subjected. Could we have discovered a settlement of bananas on the other +bank, we should certainly have halted to recuperate for many days. A halt +at this period of four or five days at a thriving settlement, would have +been of vast benefit to all of us, but such a settlement had not been +found, and it was necessary for us to march and press on until we could +discover one. + +We traversed a large village that had been abandoned for probably six +months before we reached, and as it was the hour of camping, we prepared +to make ourselves comfortable for the evening. But as the tents were +being pitched, my attention was called to the cries made by excited +groups, and hastening to the scene, heard that there was a dead body +almost covered with mildew in a hut. Presently the discovery of another +was announced and then another. This sufficed to cause us to hastily pack +up again and depart from the dead men's village, lest we might contract +the strange disease that had caused the abandonment of the village. + +One of our poor donkeys, unable to find fitting sustenance in the region +of trees and jungle, lay down and died. Another appeared weak and pining +for grass, which the endless forest did not produce. + +Opposite our camp on this day was the mouth of the Ngula River, an +affluent on the north side. Within the river it appeared to be of a width +of fifty yards. + +On the 3rd two hills became visible, one bearing E.S.E., the other S.E. +by E. 1/2 E., as we moved up the river. We camped at the point of a curve +in the centre of which were two islands. Paying a visit to one of them we +found two goats, at which we were so rejoiced, that long before evening +one was slaughtered for the officers, and another to make broth for the +sick. A flock of a hundred would have saved many a life that was rapidly +fading away. + +[Illustration: FORT ISLAND, NEAR PANGA FALLS.] + +The next day we arrived at Panga or the Nepanga Falls, about which we had +heard so much from Bakula, the native boy. + +The falls are fully thirty feet high, though at first view they appear to +be double that height, by the great slope visible above the actual fall. +They extend over a mile in length from the foot of the falls, to above +the portage. They are the first serious obstacles to navigation we had +encountered. They descend by four separate branches, the largest of which +is 200 yards wide. They run by islets of gneissic rock, and afford cover +to the natives of Panga, who when undisturbed, live upon a large island +called Nepanga, one mile long and 300 yards wide, situated 600 yards +below the Falls. This island contains three villages, numbering some 250 +huts of the conical type. There are several settlements inland on both +banks. The staple food consists of plantains, though there are also +fields of manioc. + +[Illustration: PANGA FALLS.] + +An unfortunate Zanzibari, as though he had vowed to himself to contribute +largely to our ruin, capsized his canoe as he approached Nepanga, by +which we lost two boxes of Maxim ammunition, five boxes of cowries, three +of white beads, one of fancy beads, one box fine copper wire, cartridge +pouches and seven rifles. + +All things are savage in this region. No sooner had a solitary hippo +sighted us than he gave chase, and nearly caught us. He was punished +severely, and probably received his death wound. The fowls of Nepanga +declined to be caught on the island of Nepanga, but evaded the foragers +by flight into the jungle; the goats were restless, and combative, and +very wild. Altogether we captured twelve, which gave us some hopes of +being able to save some of our sick people. A few fish were obtained in +the weirs and basket-nets. + +The results of 3 days' foraging on islands, right and left banks were 250 +lbs. of Indian corn, 18 goats, and as many fowls, besides a few branches +of plantains, among 383 people. A number of villages and settlements were +searched, but the natives do not appear to possess a sufficiency of food. +They were said to be at war with a tribe called the Engweddé, and instead +of cultivating live on banana stalks, mushrooms, roots, herbs, fish, and +snails and caterpillars, varying this extraordinary diet by feeding on +slain humanity. In such a region there were no inducements to stay, and +we accordingly commenced the business of portage. Stairs' Company was +detailed for clearing the canoe track, and to strew it with branches +place athwart the road. No. 3 and 4 Companies hauled the canoes, and No. +1 Company carried the whale-boat bodily overland to the sound of wild +music and song, and by the end of the 6th, after a busy day, we were +encamped above the great Falls of Panga. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +FROM PANGA FALLS TO UGARROWWA'S. + + + Another accident at the Rapids--The village of Utiri--Avisibba + settlement--Inquiry into a murder case at Avisibba--Surprised by + the natives--Lieutenant Stairs wounded--We hunt up the enemy--The + poisoned arrows--Indifference of the Zanzibaris--Jephson's caravan + missing--Our wounded--Perpetual rain--Deaths of Khalfan, Saadi, and + others--Arrival of caravan--The Mabengu Rapids--Mustering the + people--The Nepoko river--Remarks by Binza--Our food + supply--Reckless use of ammunition--Half-way to the Albert Lake--We + fall in with some of Ugarrowwa's men--Absconders--We camp at Hippo + Broads and Avakubi Rapids--The destroyed settlement of + Navabi--Elephants at Memberri--More desertions--The Arab leader, + Ugarrowwa--He gives us information--Visit to the Arab + settlement--First specimen of the tribe of dwarfs--Arrangements + with Ugarrowwa. + +In full view of this last camp there was an island in mid-river distant +about two miles, that resembled a water battery, and a village lying low, +apparently level with the face of the river. On exploring it on the +7th--by no means an easy task, so strong was the current sweeping down +the smooth dangerous slope of river towards Panga--it appeared to have +been originally a flat rocky mass of rock a few inches above high river, +with inequalities on its surface which had been filled in with earth +carried from the left bank. It measured 200 feet in length by about +ninety feet in width, to which a piscatorial section of a tribe had +retreated and built 60 cone huts, and boarded it round about with planks +cut out of a light wood out of the forest and wrecked canoes. At this +period the river was but six inches below the lowest surface of the +island. + +Another serious accident occurred on this day during the journey from +above Panga Falls to Nejambi Rapids. + +A witless, unthinking canoe coxswain took his canoe among the branches in +broken water, got entangled, and capsized. Nine out of eleven rifles were +recovered; two cases of gunpowder were lost. The Zanzibaris were so +heedless and lubberly among rapids that I felt myself growing rapidly +aged with intense anxiety while observing them. How headstrong human +nature is prone to be, I had ample proofs daily. My losses, troubles, and +anxieties rose solely from the reckless indifference to instructions +manifested by my followers. On land they wandered into the forest, and +simply disappeared, or were stabbed or pierced with arrows. So far we had +lost eight men and seventeen rifles. + +[Illustration: VIEW OF UTIRI VILLAGE.] + +On the 8th the caravan had hauled the canoes past Nejambi Rapids, and was +camped a few miles below Utiri. The next day we reached the villages, +where we found the architecture had changed. The houses were now all +gable-roofed and low, and each one surrounded by strong, tall, split log +palisades, six feet long, nine inches by four inches wide and thick, of +the rubiacæ wood. Constructed in two lines, a street about twenty feet +ran between them. As I observed them I was impressed with the fact that +they were extremely defensible even against rifles. A dozen resolute men +in each court of one of these villages armed with poisoned arrows might +have caused considerable loss and annoyance to an enemy. + +On the 10th we halted, and foragers were despatched in three different +directions with poor results, only two days' rations being procurable. +One man, named Khalfan, had been wounded in the wind-pipe by a wooden +arrow. The manner he received the wound indicates the perfect +indifference with which they receive instructions. While Khalfan examined +the plantains above, a native stood not twenty feet away and shot him in +the throat with a poisoned arrow. The arrow wound was a mere needle-point +puncture, and Dr. Parke attended to him with care, but it had a fatal +consequence a few days later. + +The 11th was consumed by the river party in struggling against a wild +stretch, five miles long, of rapids, caused by numerous reefs and rocky +islets, while the land column wound along the river bank on a passable +track which led them to Engweddé, where we rejoined them on the 12th. Our +day's rate having been broken by the rapids, foragers were again +despatched to collect food, and succeeded in procuring three days' +rations of plantains. On the 13th we marched to Avisibba, or Aveysheba, a +settlement of five large villages, two of which were situate on the upper +side of Ruku Creek. + +The river column was the first to occupy the villages above the Ruku. A +fine open street ran between two rows of low huts, each hut surrounded by +its tall palisades. There was a promising abundance in the plantain +groves about. The untouched forest beyond looked tall, thick, and old. +From the mouth of the creek to the extremity of the villages there was a +hundred yards' thickness of primeval forest, through which a native path +ran. Between the village and the Aruwimi was a belt of timber fifty yards +wide. While the ferriage was progressing across the creek, the boat-crew +was searching eagerly and carefully among the scores of courts for hidden +savages, and with rifles projecting before them were burrowing into the +plantain groves, and outside the villages. + +[Illustration: LEAF-BLADED PADDLE OF AVISIBBA.] + +When the column was across I had a murder case to inquire into. For on +the 12th, at Engweddé, one of our Zanzibaris had been killed with a rifle +bullet outside of camp, and it was supposed that some vengeful ruffian in +the column had shot him. Meantime, I had suggested to two head men to +take forty scouts and re-cross the creek, to explore if there were any +opportunities for foraging on the next day to the south-west of the +creek. My little court had just sat down for the inquiry, and a witness +was relating his evidence, when the rifles were heard firing with unusual +energy. Lieutenant Stairs mustered some fifty men, and proceeded on the +double-quick to the river. Under the impression that ninety +breech-loaders were quite sufficient we resumed the investigation, but as +volley after volley rang out, with continued cracking of scouts' rifles, +the Doctor, Nelson, and myself hastened to the scene with a few more men. +The first person I saw was Lieutenant Stairs, with his shirt torn open, +and blood streaming from an arrow-wound in the left breast, about the +region of the heart, and I heard a pattering on the leaves around me, and +caught a glimpse of arrows flying past. After consigning our poor friend +to Parke's care I sought for information. There were numbers of men +crouching about, and firing in the most senseless fashion at some +suspicious bushes across the creek. There were certainly obstinate +savages hidden behind them, but I failed to get a glimpse of one. The +creek I soon found lay between us. I was told that as the boat was +crossing the creek a body of natives had suddenly issued on the other +side and shot their arrows into them; that surprised by the discharge +they had crouched in the bottom of the boat to escape the arrows, and had +paddled the boat back to the landing-place with their hands. They had +then picked up their rifles and blazed away at them. Simultaneously +Lieutenant Stairs had rushed in among them and fired at the enemy, who +were of a bolder kind than any they had yet met. In a short time he had +received an arrow in the breast, which he had torn off while retreating, +and five other men had been punctured. Almost as soon as I had finished +receiving these particulars, I saw for the first time a dark shadow creep +along the ground between two bushes, and fired into the centre of it, and +a curiously weird wail responded to it. Two minutes later the arrows had +ceased their patter among the leaves. Having posted a strong guard of the +best shots along the bank to observe any movement on the opposite bank of +the creek, the rest of the people were withdrawn. + +In the evening some scouts that had searched in the woods inland returned +with a flock of seven goats. They had discovered the crossing-place, and +had suddenly opened fire on a small column going either to the assistance +of the enemy or coming from their direction. + +[Illustration: THE FIGHT WITH THE AVISIBBA CANNIBALS.] + +On the 14th, at dawn, pushed over the creek two companies to hunt up the +enemy that had done us such damage; a company was also sent, under +Captain Nelson, to the forest inland. In a few minutes we heard a volley, +and a second, and then incessant rifle fire, showing that the enemy were +of a resolute character. There were some crack shots in No. 1 Company, +but it was scarcely possible to do much damage in a thick bush against a +crafty enemy, who knew that they possessed most dangerous weapons, and +who were ignorant of the deadly force of the pellets that searched the +bushes. About 300 rounds had been fired, and silence followed. Four only +of these had been fatal, and our party received four wounds from arrows +smeared over freshly with a copal-coloured substance. One dead body was +brought to me for examination. + +[Illustration: A HEAD-DRESS OF AVISIBBA WARRIORS.] + +The head had a crop of long hair banded by a kind of coronet of iron; the +neck had a string of iron drops, with a few monkey teeth among them. The +teeth were filed into points. The distinguishing mark of the body appears +to form double rows of tiny cicatrices across the chest and abdomen. The +body was uncircumcised. Another dead body brought to the landing-place +had a necklace of human teeth, and a coronet of shining plated iron, and +the forehead and several wristlets of the same metal, polished; on the +left arm was the thick pad of silk cotton covered with goat skin, to +protect the arm from the bow string. + +After the natives had been chased away on all sides from the vicinity, +the people commenced to forage, and succeeded in bringing to Avisibba +during the day sufficient plantains to give eighty per man--four days' +rations. + +Lieutenant Stairs' wound was one-fifth of an inch in diameter, an inch +and a quarter below the heart, and the pointed head of the arrow had +penetrated an inch and a half deep. The other men were wounded in the +wrists, arms, and one in the fleshy part of the back. At this period we +did not know what this strange copal-coloured substance was with which +the points had been smeared, nor did we know what were its peculiar +effects when dry or wet; all that the Doctor could do at this time was to +inject water in the wounds and cleanse them. The "old hands" of the +Zanzibaris affirmed it was poison extracted from the India rubber +(Landolphia) by boiling; that the scum after sufficient boiling formed +the poison. + +[Illustration: CORONETED AVISIBBA WARRIOR--HEAD-DRESS.] + +A native declared that it was made of a species of arum, which, after +being bruised, was boiled; that the water was then poured out into +another pot, and boiled again until it had left a strong solution, which +was mixed with fat, and this was the substance on the arrows. The odour +was acrid, with a suspicion of asafoetida. The men proved its deadly +properties by remarking that elephants and all big game were killed by +it. All these stories caused us to be very anxious, but our ignorance was +excessive, I admit. We could only look on with wonder at the small +punctures on the arms, and express our opinion that such small wounds +could not be deadly, and hope, for the sake of our friend Stairs and our +nine wounded men, that all this was mere exaggeration. + +The arrows were very slender, made of a dark wood, twenty-four inches +long, points hardened by slow baking in the warm atmosphere above the hut +fires; at the butt end was a slit, in which a leaf was introduced to +guide the flight; the sharp points were as sharp as needles, and half an +inch from the point began a curving line of notches for about two inches. +The arrow heads were then placed in the prepared and viscid substance, +with which they were smeared; large leaves were then rolled round a sheaf +before they were placed in the quiver. Another substance was pitch black +in colour, and appeared more like Stockholm tar when fresh, but had a +very disagreeable smell. In a quiver there would be nearly a hundred +arrows. When we observed the care taken of these arrows, rolled up in +green leaves as they were, our anxiety for our people was not lessened. + +The bow is of stubborn hard brown wood, about three feet long; the string +is a broad strip of rattan carefully polished. To experiment with their +power I drove one of the wooden arrows, at six feet distance, through two +sides of an empty biscuit tin. At 200 yards' distance was a tall tree. I +drove an arrow, with full force, over the top of the highest branch and +beyond the tree. It dawned on us all then that these wooden arrows were +not the contemptible things we had imagined. At a short distance we +judged, from what we saw, that the stiff spring of this little bow was +sufficient to drive one of these slender arrows clean through a human +body. At 120 paces I have been able to miss a bird within an inch with +one of them. + +At noon on the 15th of August the land column filed out of the palisaded +villages of Avisibba led by Mr. Jephson, the officer of the day. As a +captive had informed us that there were three cataracts ahead not far +off, I instructed Mr. Jephson that he must follow the river and halt at +the first convenient spot about 2.30 P.M.; that I would halt the river +column, now consisting of the boat and fourteen canoes, until the rear +guard under Captain Nelson had quite left the settlement; but as the +canoes would proceed faster than the land caravan, I would probably +overtake him, and camp at the first fit place I could find after an +hour's row, in which event he would proceed until he found us. The +instructions were also repeated to the leading men of the pioneers. + +[Illustration: WOODEN ARROWS OF THE AVISIBBA. +(_From a photograph._)] + +I ought to have stated that our start at noon was occasioned by the delay +caused by the discovery at the morning muster that five men were absent. +They ultimately turned up at 10 o'clock; but this perpetual straying away +without leave was most exasperating, and had drawn a lecture from me, +though this was not uncommon in those stupid early days of training. + +The Zanzibaris persisted in exhibiting an indifference to danger +absolutely startling, not from bravery, or from ignorance of fear, but +from an utter incapacity to remember that danger existed, and from a +stupid unconsciousness as to how it affected them. Animals are indebted +to instinct as a constant monitor against danger, but these men appeared +to possess neither instinct nor reason, neither perception nor memory. +Their heads were uncommonly empty. The most urgent entreaties to beware +of hidden foes, and the most dreadful threats of punishment, failed to +impress on their minds the necessity they were under of being prudent, +wary, and alert to avoid the skewers in the path, the lurking cannibal +behind the plantain stalk, the cunning foe lying under a log, or behind a +buttress, and the sunken pit, with its pointed pales at the bottom. When +the danger fronted them it found them all unprepared. A sudden shower of +arrows sent them howling abjectly out of reach or under shelter; and if +the arrows were only followed by a resolute advance, resistance, by +reason of excess of terror, would be impossible. An unexpected show of +dauntlessness in a native compelled from them a ready recognition of his +courage. On the road they sneaked into the woods to avoid the rear guard, +but flew screaming with terror if a prowling savage suddenly rose before +them with uplifted spear. They roved far singly or by twos amongst the +villages, as looting was dear to their hearts; but should they meet the +wild owners of them they were more apt to throw the deadly rifle down on +the ground than to use it. They strayed through the plantain grove with +magnificent unconcern, but if they heard the whiz of an arrow they +collapsed nervelessly and submitted to their fate. With an astounding +confidence they scattered along the road, and stretched the line of the +column to 3 miles in length, but at sight of natives all sense was lost +save that of cowardly fear. Out of 370 men at this time in the camp there +were clearly 250 of this description, to whom rifles were of no use save +as a clumsy, weighty club, which they would part with for a few ears of +corn, or would willingly exchange for a light walking staff if they +dared. + +The day previous the Zanzibari head men, urged by their friends, had +appeared before me in a body, and demanded to be despatched to forage +without any officers, as the officers, they said, bored them with their +perpetual orders of "Fall in, fall in." "Why," said they, "who can gather +bananas if they are continually watched and told to 'Fall in, fall in?'" + +"Very true," said I, "the thing is impossible. Let me see what you can do +by yourselves. The banana plantations are but a quarter of an hour's +distance. I shall expect you all back within an hour." + +After such an exposition of character as the above it will not be +wondered, that, each man having cleared from my presence, forgot all his +promises, and wandered according to his wont. A flock of sheep or a herd +of swine could not have gone further astray. After fourteen hours' +absence the 200 foragers had returned save five. These five had departed +no one knew where until 10 A.M. of this day. + +Ah, those early days! Worse were to come, and then, having become +purified by suffering, and taught by awful experience, they became +Romans! + +But to return to Jephson. We pulled up stream--after seeing that every +one was clear of the settlement of Avisibba--at the rate of a knot and a +half an hour, and at 2.45, having discovered a convenient camp, halted +for the night. We waited in vain for Mr. Jephson, and the column fired +signal guns, rowed out into the stream, and with a glass searched the +shore up and down, but there was no sign of camp-fire, or smoke above the +woods, which generally covered the forest as with a fog in still weather, +no sound of rifle-shot, blare of trumpet, or human voice. The caravan, we +thought, must have found a fine track, and proceeded to the cataracts +ahead. + +On the 16th the river column pulled hard up stream, passed Mabengu +villages, came up to a deep but narrow creek flowing from the south bank +into the Nevva, as the Aruwimi was now called, looked anxiously up +stream, and an hour later we had reached the foot of Mabengu Rapids. On +the right bank, opposite to where we selected a camping-place, was a +large settlement--that of Itiri. Then, having as yet, met no traces of +the absent column, I sent boat's crew up the creek to search for traces +of fording. After ascending several miles up the creek, the boat's crew +returned unsuccessful; then I despatched it back again to within +half-an-hour's distance of Avisibba, and at midnight the boat returned to +announce their failure to find any traces of the missing. + +On the 17th the boat's crew, with "Three o'clock," the hunter (Saat +Tato), and six scouts, were sent to our camping-place of the 15th, with +orders for the hunter and his six scouts to follow the path observed +there--inland--until they had struck the trail of the column, then to +follow the trail and overtake them, and return with them to the river. On +the boat's return, the coxswain informed me that they had seen the trail +about 7 miles (3 hours' march). I concluded that Mr. Jephson had led his +column south, instead of E. by N. and E. N. E., according to course of +river, and that Saat Tato would overtake them, and return next day. + +Our condition at the river camp was this. We had thirty-nine canoemen and +boatmen, twenty-eight sick people, three Europeans, and three boys, and +one of the Europeans (Lieutenant Stairs) was suffering from a dangerous +wound, and required the constant care of the surgeon. One man had died of +dysentery at Avisibba. We had a dying idiot in camp, who had become +idiotic some days before. We had twenty-nine suffering from pleurisy, +dysentery, incurable debility, and eight suffering from wounds. One +called Khalfan was half strangled with the wound in his windpipe, another +called Saadi, wounded in the arm, appeared dangerously ill, his arm was +swollen, and gave him great pain. Out of the thirty-nine available I had +despatched three separate parties in different directions to scout for +news of the missing column, lest it was striking across some great bend +to reach the river a long distance higher up, while we, unable to stir, +were on the other side of the curve. Across the river the people of +Itiri, perceiving we were so quiet on our side of the river, seemed to be +meditating an attack, and only two miles below on our bank was the large +settlement of Mabengu, from whose inhabitants we might hear at any +moment, while our little force of thirty-nine men, scattered in various +directions, were searching for the missing 300. But the poet said that it +became + + "No man to nurse despair; + But in the teeth of clenched antagonisms + To follow the worthiest till he die." + +[Illustration: THE RIVER COLUMN ASCENDING THE ARUWIMI RIVER WITH +"ADVANCE" +AND SIXTEEN CANOES.] + +I quote from my diary of August 18th. + +The idiot fell asleep last night. His troubles are over, and we have +buried him. + +I wonder if Tennyson were here, who wrote such noble lines, what he would +think of our state. A few days ago I was chief of 370 men, rich in goods, +munitions of war, medicines, and contented with such poor comforts as we +had, and to-day I have actually only eighteen men left fit for a day's +march, the rest have vanished. I should be glad to know where. + +If 389 picked men, such as we were when we left Yambuya, are unable to +reach Lake Albert, how can Major Barttelot with 250 men make his way +through this endless forest. We have travelled, on an average, 8 hours +per day for forty-four days since leaving Yambuya. At two miles per hour +we ought, by this date, to have arrived on the Lake shore, but, instead +of being there, we have accomplished just a third of the distance. The +poet says we must not "nurse despair," for to do that is to lie down and +die, to make no effort, and abandon hope. + +Our wounded take considerable time to heal. The swelling is increasing, +the wounds are most painful, not one has yet proved fatal, but they are +all quite incapacitated from duty. + +The fifth rain of this month began at 8 A.M. Had we not enough +afflictions without this perpetual rain? One is almost tempted to think +that the end is approaching. The very "flood gates of heaven" seem +opened, and nature is dissolving. Such a body of rain is falling that the +view of all above is obscured by the amazing fall of rain-drops. Think of +the countless numbers of leaves in this forest, and that every leaf drops +ten to twenty times per minute, and that from the soaking ground rises a +grey cloud of minute rain in vapour, and that the air is full of floating +globules of water and flying shreds of leaves! And add to all this the +intense fall of rain as the blast comes bearing down the top, and whips +drowning showers on us, and sways the countless branches, and rushes +wailing through the glades with such force, as though it would wrench the +groaning trees out of the earth. The moaning and groaning of the forest +is far from comforting, and the crashing and fall of mighty trees is far +from assuring, but it is a positive terror when the thunder rumbles +above, and its sounds reverberating through the aisles and crooked +corridors of the forest, and the blazing lightning darts spitefully +hither and thither its forky tongues and sheets of flame, and explodes +over our heads with overwhelming and deafening shocks. It would be a vast +relief for our sick and wounded to be free of such sounds. An European +battle has no such variety. And throughout the day this has continued +unceasingly. It is now about the tenth hour of the day. It is scarcely +possible daylight will ever appear again, at least so I judge from the +human faces steeped in misery. Their owners appear stupefied by terror, +woe, sickness, loss of friends, hunger, rain and thunder, and general +wretchedness. They may be seen crouching under plantain-leaf sheds, +native shields, cotton shelters, straw mats, earthen and copper pots +above their heads, even saddles, tent canvass covers, blankets, each body +wreathed in blue vapour, self-absorbed with speechless anguish. The poor +asses with their ears drawn back, inverted eyes and curving backs, +captive fowls with drooping crests represent abject discomfort. Alas! the +glory of this earth is quite extinguished. When she finally recovered her +beauty, and her children assumed their proud bearing, and the growing +lakes and increasing rivers were dried up, and how out of chaos the sun +rose to comfort the world again I know not. My own feeling of misery had +so exhausted me that a long sleep wrapped me in merciful oblivion. + +_August 19th._--Still without news of land caravan. The scouts have +returned without having seen any traces of the missing. Two of the +wounded men are doing very badly. Their sufferings appear to be +terrible. + +_August 20th._--Still without news of caravan. Young Saadi wounded by a +poisoned arrow on the morning of the 14th, is attacked with tetanus, and +is in a very dangerous condition. Wherefore I take it to be a vegetable +poison. Khalfan's neck and spine have become rigid. I have given both +morphine by injection, but the doses though double, that is in half +grains, do not appear to ease the sufferers much. Stairs is just the same +as yesterday, neither worse nor better. The wound is painful, still he +has appetite, and enjoys sleep. I fear the effect on him of knowing what +the other patients are undergoing. + +It is strange that out of 300 people and 3 officers, not one has sense +enough to know that he has lost the road, and that the best way of +recovering it would be to retrace their steps to Avisibba and try again. + +_August 21st._--Poor Khalfan wounded in the windpipe on the 10th instant, +and the young fellow Saadi hurt on the morning of the 14th; both died in +the night, after intolerable agonies--one at 4 A.M., Saadi about +midnight. Khalfan's wound was caused by a poisoned arrow; but the poison +must have been laid on the arrow some days before it was used. He had +been daily getting weaker from abstinence from food, because of pain. The +wound did not seem dangerous; it had closed up, externally, and there +were no signs of inflammation; but the poor fellow complained he could +not swallow. He had subsisted on liquid food made of plantain flour +gruel. On the 8th day his neck became rigid and contracted; he could not +articulate, but murmur; the head was inclined forward, the abdomen was +shrunk, and on his face lines of pain and anxiety became fixed. Yesterday +he had some slight spasms. I gave two injections of half a grain +hypodermically, which relieved him for an hour, but, not much accustomed +to treat patients with morphia, I feared giving larger doses. Saadi was +punctured on the right forearm, midway between wrist and elbow--a mere +wound, such as a coarse stocking needle would have made. The wound was +sucked by a comrade; it was syringed with warm water and dressed, but on +the morning of the fourth day he was attacked with tetanus of so severe a +kind that his case was hopeless from our sheer inability to relieve him +from the frightful spasms. Morphia injections rendered him slightly +somnolent; but the spasms continued, and Saadi died on the 111th hour +after receiving the wound. I am inclined to think that the arrow was +smeared for the fight of the 14th the night previous. + +A third man died of dysentery before noon, making the fourth death in +this camp. + +At 5 P.M. the caravan arrived. Its sufferings have been great from mental +distress. There have been three deaths also in the land column. Maruf, +punctured in shoulder, died of tetanus on the night of the 19th, 24 hours +earlier than Saadi. This may have been due to the travel accelerating the +action of the poison. + +One man named Ali was shot by an iron-barbed arrow, and died of internal +hæmorrhage, the arrow having pierced the liver. Another succumbed to +dysentery immediately after the heavy rain which had afflicted us on the +18th; thus we have had seven fatal cases since the 14th. We have several +others, in whom life is flickering. The column brought in two others +wounded by arrows. The wounds are much inflamed, and exude a gangrenous +matter. + +Lieut. Stairs still appears hearty, and appears as though he was +recovering, despite the influence these many deaths might have on his +nerves. The surgeon having appeared, I feel an intense relief. I hate to +see pain, and take no delight in sick men's groans. I feel pleasure in +ministering to their needs only when conscious I can cure. + +We have now about 373 in camp, but 60 of them appear fitter for a +hospital than to continue our wandering life; but in this savage region +not even rest and food can be secured for the weary souls. + +A few more days of this disheartening work, attending on the sick, +looking at the agonies of men dying from lockjaw, listening to their +muffled screams, observing general distress and despondency, from hunger, +and the sad anxiety caused by the unaccountable absence of their brothers +and comrades, with the loss of 300 men impending over me must have +exercised a malign influence over myself. I am conscious of the insidious +advance of despair towards me. Our food has been bananas or plantains, +boiled or fried, our other provisions being reserved for perhaps an +extreme occasion which may present itself in the near future. The dearest +passion of my life has been, I think, to succeed in my undertakings; but +the last few days have begun to fill me with a doubt of success in the +present one. + +What the feelings of the officers have been I have not heard yet; but the +men have frankly confessed that they have been delivered from a hell. + +The following note has just been placed in my hands:-- + + "_August 1887._ + + "Dear Sir, + + "Saat Tato reached us at 3 P.M. yesterday with your order to follow + him. We at once recrossed the river (the creek which the boat's + crew had searched) and hope to reach you to-night. I can understood + how great your anxiety must have been, and deeply regret having + caused it. + + "I have the honour to be, + "&c., &c., &c. + "A. M. Jephson." + +On the 22nd we moved camp to the foot of the highest Mabengu Rapids, and +on the following day proceeded above the rapids. + +I then took the opportunity of mustering the people. The following +returns tell their own tale:-- + + Healthy. Sick. Dead. Loads. +Company No. 1 80 6 4 43 +Captain Stairs, No. 2 69 14 5 50 +Captain Nelson, No. 3 67 16 4 72 +Captain Jephson, No. 4 63 21 3 72 +Europeans 6 +Boys 12 +Soudanese 10 +Somalis 6 +Cooks 2 +Donkey boy 1 +Sick 57 + --- + 373 +Dead 16 + --- + 389 + --- + + +The experiences of the column during its wanderings appeared to confirm +me in my impressions that the Aruwimi in this region of rapids was not so +much utilized by the natives as it was below. Large settlements had been +discovered inland; the scouts had traversed the forest by several +well-trodden tracks which led from the river to the interior. The river +banks were not so populous, the settlements were now generally a little +way inland, and along the river bank was a perceptible path which +materially assisted us. Ever since leaving Utiri we had noted this fact. +On the 24th we travelled a few miles, and camped below Avugadu Rapids, +near a rich plantain grove, and the next day passed the rapids and +formed a comfortable camp in a somewhat open portion of the forest, +haunted by fishermen. On the 26th the column on land swung along at a +good rate, while we had a long stretch of undisturbed river, and had to +pull hard to keep pace with them until both columns met in one of the +largest villages of the Avejeli tribe established in front of the Nepoko +mouth. + +[Illustration: CASCADES OF THE NEPOKO.] + +This latter river, of which Dr. Junker was the first to inform us, and +which he had crossed far up, tumbled into the Aruwimi, now called the +Itiri, by a series of cascades, over reefs of shaly rock, from an +altitude of 40 feet. The mouth was about 300 yards wide, narrowing to +about 250 yards above the cascade. The natives had staked a considerable +distance of the reef, to which to attach their large funnel-shaped +baskets for the reception of the fish washed down the rapids. The colour +of the Nepoko was of chocolate, that of the Itiri was of tea and milk. + +Had I known that one week later I should have encountered Arabs, and +their desperate bands of Manyuema, there is no doubt that I should have +endeavoured to put a degree of latitude between the centre of their +influence and our route. Even as it was, I mentally debated a change of +route, from some remarks made to me by Binza (Dr. Junker's Monbuttu boy), +who suggested that it were better to travel through lands inhabited by +"decent men," to such a horrid region infested by peoples who did not +deserve the name of men applied to them, and that the Momvu tribes were +sure of according a welcome to those who could show in return that they +appreciated hospitality. Binza was most enticing in his descriptions of +the Momvu nation. But food with the Avejeli was abundant and various, and +we hoped that a change had come over the land. For ever since we had +observed a difference in the architecture of the native dwellings, we had +observed a change for the better in the diet of the people. Below Panga +Falls the aborigines principally subsisted on manioc, and on the +different breads, puddings, cakes, and porridges to which they converted +these tubers. It will not be forgotten, perhaps, that tapioca is made out +of manioc or cassava. But above Panga Falls manioc had been gradually +replaced by plantain groves and the plantain is a much more excellent +edible than manioc for an expedition, and the groves had been clearly +growing into higher importance, therefore we hoped that happier days were +in store for us. There were also fields of Indian corn, manioc, yams, and +colocassia, plots of tobacco for the smokers, and to our great joy we +came across many fowls. A halt was ordered that the sorely-tried people +might recuperate. + +In their very excusable eagerness for meat the Zanzibaris and Soudanese +were very reckless. No sooner was a fowl sighted than there was a general +scramble for it; some reckless fellows used their rifles to shoot the +chickens, and many a cartridge was expended uselessly for which due +punishment was frequently awarded. The orders were most positive that no +ammunition was to be wasted, and the efforts made to detect all breaches +of these orders were most energetic, but when did a Zanzibari obey orders +when away from his employer's eye? The indiscriminate shooting of this +day resulted in the shooting of one of the brave band of hard-working +pioneers. A bullet from a Winchester struck him in the foot, the bones of +which were pulverized and its amputation became imperative. Surgeon Parke +performed the operation in a most skilful and expeditious manner, and as +the good surgeon was most resolute when "one of his cases" required +care--this unfortunate[I] young man had to be lifted in and out by +eight men, must needs have the largest share of a canoe that nothing +might offend the tender wound, and of necessity required and received the +most bounteous supply of the best food and to have servants to wait upon +him--in short, such a share of good things and ready services that I +often envied him, and thought that for a sixpence in addition I would not +mind exchanging places with him. + +Of course another severe lecture followed, and there were loud +protestations that they would all pay implicit attention in the future, +and of course before the next day every promise was forgotten. There is +much to be said for these successive breaches of promise. They relieve +the mind from vast care and all sense of responsibility. No restraint +burdens it, and an easy gladness brightens the face. Why should a man, +being an animal, continually fetter himself with obligations as though he +were a moral being to be held accountable for every idle word uttered in +a gushing moment? + +On the 28th the river column consisting now of the _Advance_ steel boat +and sixteen canoes, pushed up river to a camp five miles above Avejeli. +The land party was left far behind, for they were struggling through a +series of streams and creeks, and buried in depths of suffocatingly close +bush, and did not arrive until the next day at noon, when they were urged +to proceed about two hours higher, whither we followed them. + +We arrived at the foot of a big cataract on the 30th, and by observation +ascertained that we had reached half-way to the Albert Lake, Kavalli +being in 30° 30' and Yambuya in 25° 3-1/2'. Our camp on this day was in +about 27° 47'. + +We had 163 geographical miles in an air line to make yet, which we could +never accomplish within 64 days as we had performed the western half of +the route. The people were in an impoverished state of body, and mentally +depressed, ulcers were raging like an epidemic, anæmia had sapped their +vitality. They were told the half-way camp was reached, but they replied +with murmurs of unbelief. They asked, "How can the master tell? Will that +instrument show him the road? Will it tell him which is the path? Why +does it not tell us, then, that we may see and believe? Don't the natives +know their own country better? Which of them has seen grass? Do they not +all say that all the world is covered with trees and thick bush? Bah--the +master talks to us as though we were children and had no proper +perception." + +The morning of the evil date, August 31st, dawned as on other days. It +struggled through dense clouds of mist, and finally about 9 o'clock the +sun appeared, pale, indistinct, a mere circle of lustreless light. But in +the meantime we were hard at our frequent task of cutting a broad highway +through the bush and forest, through which the boat could be carried +bodily by 60 men, standing underneath; the crew of the flotilla were +wrestling with the mad waters, and shoving their vessels up steep slopes +of a racing river. + +The highway was finished in an hour, and a temporary camp was located +above. The canoes began to arrive. I left the Doctor to superintend the +pioneers bearing the boat, but he presently returned to report that the +boat could not be lifted. I retraced my steps to oversee the operation +personally. I had succeeded in conveying it half way when my European +servant came running at a mad pace, crying out as he ran: "Sir, oh, sir, +Emin Pasha has arrived." + +"Emin Pasha!" + +[Illustration: "THE PASHA IS COMING."] + +"Yes, sir. I have seen him in a canoe. His red flag, like ours (the +Egyptian), is hoisted up at the stern. It is quite true, sir!" + +Of course we bounded forward; the boat was dropped as though it was red +hot. A race began, master and man striving for the lead. In the camp the +excitement was also general. It was owing, we soon heard, to the arrival +of nine Manyuema, who served one called Uledi Balyuz, known to natives by +the name of Ugarrowwa, and who was reported to be settled about eight +marches up river, and commanding several hundred armed men. + +The Arabs were, then, so far inland on the Upper Aruwimi, and I had +flattered myself that I had heard the last of these rovers! We were also +told that there were fifty of them camped six miles above on their way, +by orders of Ugarrowwa, to explore the course of the river, to ascertain +if communication with Stanley Falls could be obtained by the unknown +stream on whose banks they had settled. + +We imparted the information they desired, whereupon they said they would +return to their camp and prepare for a hospitable reception on the +morrow. The Zanzibaris were considerably elated at the news, for what +reason may shortly be seen. + +The first absconder was one Juma, who deserted with half a hundredweight +of biscuit that night. + +On the 1st September, in the early morning, we were clear of the rapids, +and, rowing up in company with the caravan, were soon up at the village +where the Manyuema were said to be camped. At the gate there was a dead +male child, literally hacked to pieces; within the palisades was a dead +woman, who had been speared. The Manyuema had disappeared. It seemed to +us then that some of our men had damped their joy at the encounter with +us, by suggesting that the slaves with them might probably cause in us a +revulsion of feeling. Suspicion of this caused an immediate change in +their feelings. Their fears impelled them to decamp instantly. Their +society was so much regretted, however, that five Zanzibaris, taking +five loads, four of ammunition and one of salt, disappeared. + +We resumed our journey, and halted at the base of another series of +rapids. + +The next day Saat Tato, having explored the rapids, reported +encouragingly, and expressed his confidence that without much difficulty +these could also be surmounted. This report stimulated the boatmen to +make another trial. While the river column was busy in its own peculiar +and perilous work, a search party was despatched to hunt news of the +missing men, and returned with one man, a box of ammunition, and three +rifles. The search party had discovered the deserters in the forest, with +a case of ammunition open, which they were distributing. In trying to +surround them, the deserters became alarmed and scudded away, leaving +three of their rifles and a case behind them. + +On the 3rd of September five more deserted, carrying away one case of +Remington cartridges, one case of Winchester cartridges, one box of +European provisions, and one load of fine Arab clothing, worth £50. +Another was detected with a box of provisions open before him, having +already abstracted a tin of sago, one tin of Liebig, a tin of butter, and +one of milk. Ten men had thus disappeared in a couple of days. At this +rate, in sixty days the Expedition would be ended. I consulted the +chiefs, but I could gain no encouragement to try what extreme measures +would effect. It was patent, however, to the dullest that we should be +driven to resort to extremities soon to stop this wholesale desertion and +theft. Since leaving Yambuya we had lost forty-eight rifles and fifteen +cases of Maxim, Winchester, and Remington ammunition. + +The day following four men deserted, and one was caught in the act of +desertion. The people were accordingly mustered, and sixty men, suspected +of being capable of desertion, as no head man would guarantee their +fidelity, were rendered helpless by abstracting the mainsprings of the +rifles, which we took and locked up. Demoralisation had set in rapidly +since we had met the Manyuema. Nothing was safe in their hands. Boxes +had been opened, cloth had been stolen, beads had been pilfered, much +ammunition had been taken out of the cases, and either thrown, or +secreted as a reserve, by the way. + +On September 5th we camped near Hippo Broads, so called because the river +was fine and broad, and a large herd of hippopotami were seen. The site +of our resting place was an abandoned clearing, which had become the +haunts of these amphibiæ, and exquisite bits of greensward caused us to +imagine for a moment that possibly the open country was not far. Foragers +returned after a visit into the interior, on both banks, with four goats +and a few bananas, numbers of roast rats, cooked beetles, and slugs. On +the 6th we reached a cataract opposite the Bafaido settlement, where we +obtained a respectable supply of plantains. The day following we dragged +our canoes over a platform of rock, over a projecting ledge of which the +river tumbled 10 feet. + +From the Bafaido cataract we journeyed along a curving river to Avakubi +Rapids, and formed a camp at the landing-place. A path led hence into the +interior, which the hungry people soon followed. While scouring the +country for food, a woman and child were found, who were brought to me to +be examined. But the cleverest interpreter was at fault. No one +understood a syllable of the meaningless babble. + +Some more rapids were reached the next day. We observed that the oil-palm +flourished throughout this section. + +Palm nuts were seen in heaps near each village. We even discovered some +palms lately planted, which showed some regard for posterity. Achmet, the +Somali, who had insisted on leaving Yambuya, in accompanying us had been +a passenger ever since we had struck the river above Yankondé, was +reported to be dying. He was said to suffer from melanosis. Whatever the +disease might be, he had become singularly emaciated, being a literal +skeleton covered lightly with skin. + +From this camp we rounded a point, passed over a short winding course of +river, and in an hour approached in view of an awful raging stream choked +by narrow banks of shale. The outlook beyond the immediate foreview was +first of a series of rolling waves whirling and tossed into spray, +descending in succeeding lines, and a great fall of about 30 feet, and +above that a steep slope of wild rapids, and the whole capped with mist, +and tearing down tumultuously towards us. This was appalling considering +the state of the column. There were about 120 loads in the canoes, and +between fifty and sixty sick and feeble people. To leave these in the +woods to their fate was impossible, to carry the loads and advance +appeared equally so; yet to drag the canoes and bear the boat past such a +long stretch of wild water appeared to be a task beyond our utmost +powers. + +[Illustration: VIEW OF BAFAIDO CATARACT.] + +Leaving the vessels below the falls and rapids, I led the Expedition by +land to the destroyed settlement of Navabi, situated near a bend of the +Itiri (Aruwimi) above the disturbed stream, where we established a camp. +The sick dragged themselves after the caravan, those too feeble and +helpless to travel the distance were lifted up and borne to the camp. +Officers then mustered the companies for the work of cutting a broad +highway through the bush and hauling the canoes. This task occupied two +whole days, while No. 1 Company foraged far and near to obtain food, but +with only partial success. + +[Illustration: ATTACKING AN ELEPHANT IN THE ITURI RIVER.] + +Navabi must have been a remarkable instance of aboriginal prosperity +once. It possessed groves of the elais and plantain, large plots of +tobacco and Indian corn; the huts under the palms looked almost idyllic; +at least so we judged from two which were left standing, and gave us a +bit of an aspect at once tropical, pretty, and apparently happy. +Elsewhere the whole was desolate. Some parties, which we conjectured +belonged to Ugarrowwa, had burnt the settlement, chopped many of the +palms down, levelled the banana plantations, and strewed the ground with +the bones of the defenders. Five skulls of infants were found within our +new camp at Navabi. + +On the 12th, as we resumed our journey, we were compelled to leave five +men who were in an unconscious state and dying. Achmet, the Somali, whom +we had borne all the way from Yambuya, was one of them. + +From Navabi we proceeded to the landing place of Memberri, which +evidently was a frequent haunt of elephants. One of these not far off was +observed bathing luxuriously in the river near the right bank. Hungry for +meat, I was urged to try my chance. On this Expedition I had armed myself +with the Express rifles of 577-bore, which Indian sportsmen so much +applaud. The heavy 8-bores were with Major Barttelot and Mr. Jameson. I +succeeded in planting six shots in the animal at a few yards distance, +but to no purpose except to unnecessarily wound him. + +At Memberri we made a muster, and according to returns our numbers +stood:-- + + August 23rd 373 men. + + September 12th 343 men. + + 14 deserted and 16 deaths; carriers 235; loads 227; sick 58 + + +Added to these eloquent records every member of the Expedition suffered +from hunger, and the higher we ascended the means for satisfying the +ever-crying want of food appeared to diminish, for the Bakusu and +Basongora slaves, under the Manyuema head men of Ugarrowwa, had destroyed +the plantations, and either driven the populations to unknown recesses in +the forest or had extirpated them. + +On the following day we reached Amiri Falls. The previous day the head +man, Saadi, had been reproached for leaving one named Makupeté to return +along the track to search for a box of ammunition that was reported to be +missing, whereupon Saadi took the unwise resolution of proceeding to hunt +up Makupeté. Then one, Uledi Manga, disgusted with the severe work and +melancholy prospect before us, absconded with another box of ammunition. + +We had only three Zanzibar donkeys left. Out of the six with which we had +started from Yambuya, one of the three, probably possessed with a +presentiment that the caravan was doomed, took it into his head that it +was better to return before it was too late, and deserted also. Whither +he went no one knew. It is useless to search in the forest for a lost +man, donkey, or article. Like the waves divided by a ship's prow uniting +at the stern, so the forest enfolds past finding within its deep shades +whatsoever enters, and reveals nothing. + +Near a single old fishing hut our camp was pitched on the 15th. The river +after its immense curve northward and eastward now trended +south-easterly, and we had already reached S. Lat. 1° 24' from 1° 58'. + +Having been in the habit of losing a box of ammunition per diem for the +last few days, having tried almost every art of suppressing this robbery, +we now had recourse to lashing the boxes in series of eights, and +consigning each to the care of a head man, and holding him responsible +for them. This we hoped would check the excuse that the men disappeared +into the forest under all kinds of wants. + +On the 16th of September, while halting for the midday rest and lunch, +several loud reports of musketry were heard up-river. I sent Saat Tato to +explore, and in half-an-hour we heard three rifle-shots announcing +success; and shortly after three canoes besides our own appeared loaded +with men in white dresses, and gay with crimson flags. These came, so +they reported, to welcome us in the name of Ugarrowwa, their chief, who +would visit my evening camp. After exchanging compliments, they returned +up-river, firing their muskets and singing gaily. + +At the usual hour we commenced the afternoon march, and at 4 P.M. were in +camp just below Ugarrowwa's station. At the same time a roll of drums, +the booming of many muskets, and a flotilla of canoes, announced the +approach of the Arab leader. About 50 strong, robust fellows accompanied +him, besides singers and women, every one of whom was in prime condition +of body. + +The leader gave his name as Ugarrowwa, the Zanzibar term for "Lualaba," +or native name of "Ruarawwa," known formerly as Uledi Balyuz (or the +Consuls Uledi). He had accompanied Captains Speke and Grant, 1860-3, as a +tent-boy, and had been left or had deserted in Unyoro. He offered as a +gift to us two fat goats and about 40 lbs. of picked rice, a few ripe +plantains, and fowls. + +Upon asking him if there was any prospect of food being obtained for the +people in the vicinity of his station, he admitted, to our sorrow, that +his followers in their heedless way had destroyed everything, that it was +impossible to check them because they were furious against the "pagans" +for the bloody retaliation and excesses the aborigines had committed +against many and many of their countrymen during their search for ivory. + +Asked what country we were in, he replied that we were in Bunda, the +natives of which were Babunda; that the people on the north bank in the +neighbourhood of his station were called Bapai or Bavaiya. + +He also said that his raiders had gone eastward a month's journey, and +had seen from a high hill (Kassololo?), a grassy country extending to the +eastward. + +Further information was to the effect that his caravan, 600 strong, had +left the Lualaba at Kibongés (above Leopold R.), and that in nine moons +he had travelled the distance of 370 geographical miles, about a N.E. +course, throughout continuous forest without having seen as much grass as +would cover the palm of his hand; that he had only crossed one river, the +Lindi, before he sighted the Ituri, as the Aruwimi was now called; that +he had heard from Arab traders that the Lulu (Lowwa) rose from a small +lake called the Ozo, where there was a vast quantity of ivory. + +Four days higher Ugarrowwa possessed another station manned with 100 +guns, near the Lenda river, a tributary of the Aruwimi, which entered it +from the south bank. His people had sown rice, of which he had brought +us some, and onions; but near each settlement was a waste, as it was not +policy to permit such "murderous pagans" to exist near them, otherwise he +and his people's lives were not safe. He had lost about 200 men of the +Bakusu and Basangora tribes, and many a fine Manyuema headman. One time +he had lost 40, of whom not one had returned. He had an Arab guest at his +station who had lost every soul out of his caravan. + +I observed a disposition on his part to send some men with me to the +Lake, and there appeared to be no difficulty in housing with him my sick +men for a consideration to be hereafter agreed upon. + +On the 17th we proceeded a short distance to encamp opposite Ugarrowwa's +station. + +In the afternoon I was rowed across in my boat to the Arab settlement, +and was hospitably received. I found the station to be a large +settlement, jealously fenced round with tall palisades and short planks +lashed across as screens against chance arrows. In the centre, facing the +river, was the house of the chief, commodious, lofty, and comfortable, +the walls of which were pierced for musketry. It resembled a fort with +its lofty and frowning walls of baked clay. On passing through a passage +which separated Ugarrowwa's private apartments from the public rooms, I +had a view of a great court 60 feet square, surrounded by buildings and +filled with servants. It suggested something baronial in its busy aspect, +the abundant service, the great difference of the domestics, amplitude of +space, and plenty. The place was certainly impregnable against attack, +and, if at all spiritedly defended, a full battalion would have been +necessary to have captured this outpost of a slave trader. + +I was informed that the river for many days' march appeared to flow from +the eastward; that the Ihuru, a considerable distance up, flowed from the +northward and joined the Ituri, and that, besides the Lenda, there was +another affluent called the Ibina, which entered from the south. + +Somewhere higher up also,--vaguely given as ten days' by others twenty +days' march,--another Arab was settled who was called Kilonga-Longa, +though his real name was also Uledi. + +At this settlement I saw the first specimen of the tribe of dwarfs who +were said to be thickly scattered north of the Ituri, from the Ngaiyu +eastward. She measured thirty-three inches in height, and was a perfectly +formed young woman of about seventeen, of a glistening and smooth +sleekness of body. Her figure was that of a miniature coloured lady, not +wanting in a certain grace, and her face was very prepossessing. Her +complexion was that of a quadroon, or of the colour of yellow ivory. Her +eyes were magnificent, but absurdly large for such a small +creature--almost as large as that of a young gazelle; full, protruding, +and extremely lustrous. Absolutely nude, the little demoiselle was quite +possessed, as though she were accustomed to be admired, and really +enjoyed inspection. She had been discovered near the sources of the +Ngaiyu. + +Ugarrowwa, having shown me all his treasures, including the splendid +store of ivory he had succeeded in collecting, accompanied me to the +boat, and sent away with me large trays of exquisitely cooked rice, and +an immense bowl full of curried fowl, a dish that I am not fond of, but +which inspired gratitude in my camp. + +Our landing-place presented a lively scene. The sellers of bananas, +potatoes, sugar-cane, rice, flour of manioc, and fowls clamoured for +customers, and cloths and beads exchanged hands rapidly. This is the kind +of life which the Zanzibaris delight in, like almost all other natives, +and their happy spirits were expressed in sounds to which we had long +been strangers. + +Early this morning I had sent a canoe to pick up any stragglers that +might have been unable to reach camp, and before 3 P.M. five sick men, +who had surrendered themselves to their fate, were brought in, and +shortly after a muster was held. The following were the returns of men +able to march:-- + + Men. Chiefs. + No. 1 Company 69 4 + No. 2 " 57 4 + No. 3 " 60 4 + No. 4 " 61 4 + Cooks 3 + Boys 9 + Europeans 6 + Soudanese 6 + --- --- + 271 16 + Sick 56 + --- + 327 + Departed from Yambuya 389 + --- + Loss by desertion and death 62 + --- + + +The boat and canoes were manned, and the sick transported to the Arab +settlement, arrangements having been made for boarding them at the rate +of five dollars each per month until Major Barttelot should appear, or +some person bearing an order from me. + +It will be remembered that we met Ugarrowwa's men on the 31st of August, +one day's march from Avejeli, opposite the Nepoko mouth. These men, +instead of pursuing their way down river, had returned to Ugarrowwa to +inform him of the news they had received from us, believing that their +mission was accomplished. It was Ugarrowwa's wish to obtain gunpowder, as +his supply was nearly exhausted. Major Barttelot possessed two and a +quarter tons of this explosive, and, as reported by us, was advancing up +river, but as he had so much baggage it would take several months before +he could arrive so far. I wished to communicate with Major Barttelot, and +accordingly I stipulated with Ugarrowwa that if his men continued their +way down river along the south or left bank until they delivered a letter +into his hands, I would give him an order for three hundredweight of +powder. He promised to send forty scouts within a month, and expressed +great gratitude. (He actually did send them, as he promised, between the +20th and 25th of October. They succeeded in reaching Wasp Rapids, 165 +miles from Yambuya, whence they were obliged to return, owing to losses +and the determined hostility of the natives.) + +Our Zanzibari deserters had been deluded like ourselves. Imagining that +Ugarrowwa's people had continued their journey along some inland route +westward, they had hastened westward in pursuit to join them, whereas we +discovered they had returned eastward to their master. The arrangements +made with Ugarrowwa, and the public proclamation of the man himself +before all, would, I was assured, suffice to prevent further desertion. + +We were pretty tired of the river work with its numerous rapids, and I +suggested to Ugarrowwa that I should proceed by land; the Arab, however, +was earnest in dissuading me from that course, as the people would be +spared the necessity of carrying many loads, the sick having been left +behind, and informed me that his information led him to believe that the +river was much more navigable above for many days than below. + +----- + [I] Was he very unfortunate? I paid Ugarrowwa for thirteen + months' board, sent him to Stanley Falls, thence down + the Congo and by sea to Madeira, _viâ_ the Cape to + Zanzibar, where he arrived in a state well described by + "as fat as butter." + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + +UGARROWWA'S TO KILONGA-LONGA'S. + + + Ugarrowwa sends us three Zanzibari deserters--We make an + example--The "Express" rifles--Conversation with Rashid--The Lenda + river--Troublesome rapids--Scarcity of food--Some of + Kilonga-Longa's followers--Meeting of the rivers Ihuru and + Ituri--State and numbers of the Expedition--Illness of Captain + Nelson--We send couriers ahead to Kilonga-Longa's--The sick + encampment--Randy and the guinea fowl--Scarcity of food--Illness + caused by the forest pears--Fanciful menus--More desertions--Asmani + drowned--Our condition in brief--Uledi's suggestion--Umari's + climb--My donkey is shot for food--We strike the track of the + Manyuema and arrive at their village. + +Once more the Expedition consisted of picked men. My mind was relieved of +anxiety respecting the rear column, and of the fate which threatened the +sick men. We set out from Ugarrowwa's station with 180 loads in the +canoes and boat, forty-seven loads to be carried once in four days by +alternate companies. The Arabs accompanied us for a few hours on the 19th +to start us on our road and to wish us success in our venture. + +We had scarcely been all collected in our camp, and the evening was +rapidly becoming dusky, when a canoe from Ugarrowwa appeared with three +Zanzibaris bound as prisoners. Inquiring the cause of this, I was +astonished to find that they were deserters whom Ugarrowwa had picked up +soon after reaching his station. They had absconded with rifles, and +their pouches showed that they had contrived to filch cartridges on the +road. I rewarded Ugarrowwa with a revolver and 200 cartridges. The +prisoners were secured for the night, but before retiring I debated +carefully as to what method was best to deal with these people. If this +were permitted to proceed without the strongest measures, we should in a +short time be compelled to retrace our steps, and all the lives and +bitter agonies of the march would have been expended in vain. + +In the morning "all hands" were mustered, and an address was delivered to +the men in fitting words, to which all assented; and all agreed that we +had endeavoured our utmost to do our duty, that we had all borne much, +but that the people on this occasion appeared to be all slaves, and +possessed no moral sense whatever. They readily conceded that if natives +attempted to steal our rifles, which were "our souls," we should be +justified in shooting them dead, and that if men, paid for their labour, +protected and treated kindly, as they were, attempted to cut our throats +in the night, were equally liable to be shot. + +"Well then," said I, "what are these doing but taking our arms, and +running away with our means of defence. You say that you would shoot +natives, if they stood in your way preventing your progress onward or +retreat backward. What are these doing? For if you have no rifles left, +or ammunition, can you march either forward or backward?" + +"No," they admitted. + +"Very well, then, you have condemned them to death. One shall die to-day, +another to-morrow, and another the next day, and from this day forward, +every thief and deserter who leaves his duty and imperils his comrades' +lives shall die." + +The culprits were then questioned as to who they were. One replied that +he was the slave of Farjalla-bill Ali--a headman in No. 1 company; +another that he was the slave of a Banyan in Zanzibar, and the third that +he was the slave of an artizan at work in Unyanyembé. + +Lots were cast, and he who chose the shortest paper of three slips was +the one to die first. The lot fell upon the slave of Farjalla, who was +then present. The rope was heaved over a stout branch. Forty men at the +word of command lay hold of the rope and a noose was cast round the +prisoner's neck. + +"Have you anything to say before the word is given?" + +He replied with a shake of the head. The signal was given, and the man +was hoisted up. Before the last struggles were over, the Expedition had +filed out of camp leaving the rear-guard and river column behind. A +rattan was substituted in place of our rope, the body was secured to the +tree, and within fifteen minutes the camp was abandoned. + +We made good progress on this day. A track ran along the river which +greatly assisted the caravan. In passing through we searched and found +only ten bunches of miniature plantains. We formed camp an hour's +distance from the confluence of the Lenda and Ituri. + +Another noble tusker was bathing opposite the river, and Captain Nelson, +with a double-barrelled rifle, similar to my own, myself, and Saat Tato +the hunter, crossed over and floated down within fifteen yards of the +elephant. We fired three bullets simultaneously into him, and in a second +had planted two more, and yet with all this lead fired at vital parts the +animal contrived to escape. From this time we lost all confidence in +these rifles. We never bagged one head of game with the Expresses during +the entire Expedition. Captain Nelson sold his rifle for a small supply +of food to Kilonga-Longa some time afterwards, and I parted with mine as +a gift to Antari, King of Ankori, nearly two years later. With the No. 8 +or No. 10 Reilly rifle I was always successful, therefore those +interested in such things may avail themselves of our experience. + +As the next day dawned and a grey light broke through the umbrageous +coping of the camp I despatched a boy to call the head chief Rashid. + +"Well, Rashid, old man, we shall have to execute the other man presently. +It will soon be time to prepare for it. What do you say?" + +"Well, what can we do else than kill those who are trying to kill us? If +we point to a pit filled at the bottom with pointed pales and poisoned +skewers, and tell men to beware of it, surely we are not to blame if men +shut their ears to words of warning and spring in. On their own heads let +the guilt lie." + +"But it is very hard after all. Rashid bin Omar, this forest makes men's +hearts like lead, and hunger has driven their wits out of their heads; +nothing is thought of but the empty belly and crying stomach. I have +heard that when mothers are driven by famine they will sometimes eat +their children. Why should we wonder that the servant runs away from his +master when he cannot feed him?" + +"That is the truth as plain as sunshine. But if we have to die let us all +die together. There are plenty of good men here who will give you their +hearts whenever you bid them do it. There are others--slaves of +slaves--who know nothing and care for nothing, and as they would fly with +what we need to make our own lives sure, let them perish and rot. They +all know that you, a Christian, are undergoing all this to save the sons +of Islam who are in trouble near some great sea, beyond here; they +profess Islam, and yet would leave the Christian in the bush. Let them +die." + +"But supposing, Rashid, we could prevent this breakup and near ruin by +some other way not quite so severe as to hang them up until they are +dead; what would you say?" + +"I would say, sir, that all ways are good, but, without doubt, the best +is that which will leave them living to repent." + +"Good, then, after my coffee the muster will be sounded. Meanwhile, +prepare a long rattan cable; double it over that stout branch yonder. +Make a good noose of a piece of that new sounding line. Get the prisoner +ready, put guards over him, then when you hear the trumpet tell these +words in the ears of the other chiefs, 'Come to me, and ask his pardon, +and I will give it you.' I shall look to you, and ask if you have +anything to say; that will be your signal. How do you like it?" + +"Let it be as you say. The men will answer you." + +In half-an-hour the muster signal sounded; the companies formed a square +enclosing the prisoner. A long rattan cable hung suspended with the fatal +noose attached to a loop; it trailed along the ground like an immense +serpent. After a short address, a man advanced and placed the noose +around the neck; a company was told off to hoist the man upward. + +"Now, my man, have you anything to say to us before you join your brother +who died yesterday?" + +The man remained silent, and scarcely seemed conscious that I spoke. I +turned round to the head man. "Have you anything to say before I pass the +word?" + +Then Rashid nudged his brother chiefs, at which they all rushed up, and +threw themselves at my feet, pleading forgiveness, blaming in harsh terms +the thieves and murderers, but vowing that their behaviour in future +would be better if mercy was extended for this one time. + +During this scene the Zanzibaris' faces were worth observing. How the +eyes dilated and the lips closed, and their cheeks became pallid, as with +the speed of an electric flash the same emotion moved them! + +"Enough, children! take your man, his life is yours. But see to it. There +is only one law in future for him who robs us of a rifle, and that is +death by the cord." + +Then such a manifestation of feeling occurred that I was amazed--real big +tears rolled down many a face, while every eye was suffused and enlarged +with his passionate emotions. Caps and turbans were tossed into the air. +Rifles were lifted, and every right arm was up as they exclaimed "Until +the white cap is buried none shall leave him! Death to him who leaves +Bula Matari! Show the way to the Nyanza! Lead on now--now we will +follow!" + +Nowhere have I witnessed such affecting excitement except in +Spain--perhaps when the Republicans stormily roared their sentiments, +after listening to some glorious exhortations to stand true to the new +faith in Libertad, Igualdad, and Fraternidad! + +The prisoner also wept, and after the noose was flung aside knelt down +and vowed to die at my feet. We shook hands and I said, "It is God's +work, thank Him." + +Merrily the trumpet blared once more, and at once rose every voice, "By +the help of God! By the help of God!" The detail for the day sprang to +their posts, received their heavy load for the day, and marched away +rejoicing as to a feast. Even the officers smiled their approval. Never +was there such a number of warmed hearts in the forest of the Congo as on +that day. + +The land and river columns reached the Lenda within an hour, and about +the same time. This was apparently a deep river about a hundred yards +wide. On the west side of the confluence was a small village, but its +plantain groves had been long ago despoiled of fruit. Soon after the +ferriage was completed the men were permitted to scour the country in +search of food; some on the north bank, and others on the south bank, but +long before night they all returned, having been unable to find a morsel +of any kind of edible. + +On the 22nd, while pursuing our way by river and by land as usual, I +reflected that only on the 18th I had left fifty-six invalids under the +care of an Arab; yet on observing the people at the muster, I noticed +that there were about fifty already incapacitated by debility. The very +stoutest and most prudent were pining under such protracted and mean +diet. To press on through such wastes unpeopled by the ivory hunters +appeared simply impossible, but on arriving at Umeni we had the good +fortune to find sufficient for a full day's rations, and hope again +filled us. + +The following day, one man, called "Abdallah the humped," deserted. We on +the river were troubled with several rapids, and patches of broken water, +and in discharging cargo, and hauling canoes, and finally we came in view +of a fall of forty feet with lengths of rapids above and below. + +One would have thought that by this time the Ituri would have become an +insignificant stream, but when we saw the volume of water precipitated +over the third large cataract, we had to acknowledge that it was still a +powerful river. + +The 24th was passed by us in foraging, and cutting a highway to above the +rapids and disconnecting boat sections for transport. The pioneers +secured a fair quantity of plantains, the three other companies nothing. +The obstructions to this cataract consisted of reddish schistose rock. + +On the next day we were clear of the third cataract and halted at an old +Arab encampment. During this day no new supply of food was obtained. + +The day following we reached another series of rapids, and after a +terrible day's work unloading and reshipping several times, with the +fatigues and anxiety incurred during the mounting of the dangerous +rapids, we reached camp opposite Avatiko. + +How useful the boat and canoes were to us may be imagined from the fact +that it required us to make three round trips to carry 227 loads. Even +then it occupied all the healthy men until night. The people were so +reduced by hunger, that over a third could do no more than crawl. I was +personally reduced to two bananas on this day from morning to night. But +some of our Zanzibaris had found nothing to subsist on for two entire +days, which was enough to sap the strength of the best. A foraging party +of No. 1 Company crossed the river to Avatiko settlement, and found a +small supply of young fruit, but they captured a woman who stated that +she knew and could guide us to plantains as large as her arms. + +The 27th of September was a halt. I despatched Lieutenant Stairs to +explore ahead along the river, and 180 men across river to forage for +food, with our female captive as guide. The former returned to report +that no village had been seen, and to detail an exciting encounter he had +had with elephants, from which it appeared he had a narrow escape. The +Zanzibaris came back with sufficient plantains to distribute from sixty +to eighty per man. If the people had followed our plan of economising the +food, we should have had less suffering to record, but their appetites +were usually ungovernable. The quantity now distributed impartially, +ought to have served them for from six to eight days, but several sat up +all night to eat, trusting in God to supply them with more on peremptory +demand. + +On the 30th the river and land parties met at lunch time. This day the +officers and myself enjoyed a feast. Stairs had discovered a live +antelope in a pit, and I had discovered a mess of fresh fish in a native +basket-net at the mouth of a small creek. In the afternoon we camped at a +portion of the river bank which showed signs of its being used as a +landing near a ferry. Soon after camping we were startled by three shots. +These indicated the presence of Manyuema, and presently about a dozen +fine-looking men stalked into the camp. They were the followers of +Kilonga-Longa, the rival of Ugarrowwa in the career of devastation to +which these two leaders had committed themselves. + +The Manyuema informed us that Kilonga-Longa's settlement was but five +days' journey, and that as the country was uninhabited it would be +necessary to provide rations of plantains which could be procured across +river, and that still a month's journey lay between us and the grass +land. They advised us to stay at the place two days to prepare the food, +to which we were very willing to agree, the discovery of some kind of +provisions being imperative. + +During the first day's halt, the search for food was unsuccessful, but on +the second day at early dawn a strong detachment left for the north bank, +under Lieutenant Stairs and Surgeon Parke. In the afternoon the foragers +returned with sufficient plantains to enable us to serve out forty to +each man. Some of the most enterprising men had secured more, but extreme +want had rendered them somewhat unscrupulous, and they had contrived to +secrete a small reserve. + +On the 3rd of October, soon after leaving our camp in the morning, we +entered into a pool-like formation, surrounded by hills rising from 250 +to 600 feet above the river, and arriving at the end saw a crooked, +ditch-like, and very turbulent stream. The scenery reminded us of a +miniature Congo cañon banked as it was with lines of lofty hills. A +presentiment warned us that we were about to meet more serious obstacles +than any we had yet met. We progressed, however, upward about three +miles, but the difficulties of advance were so numerous that we were +unable to reach the caravan camp. + +On the 4th we proceeded about a mile and a half, and crossed the +Expedition to the north bank, as we had been told that the Manyuema +settlement of Ipoto was situated on that side. The Manyuema had +disappeared, and three of our deserters had accompanied them. Two men had +also died of dysentery. We experienced several narrow escapes; a canoe +was twice submerged, the steel boat was nearly lost, and the severe +bumping she received destroyed the rate of our chronometers, which +hitherto had been regular. I should have abandoned the river on this day, +but the wilderness, the horrible, lonely, uninhabited wilderness, and the +excessive physical prostration and weakness of the people, forbade it. We +hoped and hoped that we should be able to arrive at some place where food +and rest could be obtained, which appeared improbable, except at +Kilonga-Longa's settlement. + +The next day we arrived, at 10 A.M., after a push through terribly wild +water, at a sharp bend curving eastward from N.E., distinguished by its +similarity of outline on a small scale to Nsona Mamba, of the Lower +Congo. Stepping on shore before we had gone far within the bend, and +standing on some lava-like rock, I saw at a glance that this was the end +of river navigation by canoes. The hills rose up to a bolder height, +quite 600 feet, the stream was contracted to a width of twenty-five +yards, and about a hundred yards above the point on which I stood, the +Ihuru escaped, wild and furious, from a gorge; while the Ituri was seen +descending from a height in a series of cataracts, and, both uniting at +this point, and racing madly at the highest pitch and velocity, bellowed +their uproar loudly amongst the embanking and sombre forest heights. + +I sent messengers across the river to recall the caravan which was under +the leadership of Stairs, and on their return recrossed the people to the +south bank. + +On the morning of the 6th of October our state and numbers were 271 in +number, including white and black. Since then two had died of dysentery, +one from debility, four had deserted, and one man was hanged. We had +therefore 263 men left. Out of this number fifty-two had been reduced to +skeletons, who first, attacked by ulcers, had been unable to forage, and +to whom through their want of economizing what rations had been +distributed, had not sufficient to maintain them during the days that +intervened of total want. These losses in men left me 211 still able to +march, and as among these there were forty men non-carriers, and as I had +227 loads, it followed that when I needed carriage, I had about eighty +loads more than could be carried. Captain Nelson for the last two weeks +had also suffered from a dozen small ulcers, which had gradually +increased in virulence. On this day then, when the wild state of the +river quite prohibited further progress by it, he and fifty-two men were +utterly unfit and incapable of travel. + +It was a difficult problem that now faced us. Captain Nelson was our +comrade, whom to save we were bound to exert our best force. To the +fifty-two black men we were equally bound by the most solemn obligations; +and dark as was the prospect around us, we were not so far reduced but +that we entertained a lively hope that we could save them. As the +Manyuema had reported that their settlement was only five days' journey, +and we had already travelled two days' march, then probably the village +or station was still three days ahead of us. It was suggested by Captain +Nelson that if we despatched intelligent couriers ahead, they would be +enabled to reach Kilonga-Longa's settlement long before the column. As +this suggestion admitted of no contradiction, and as the head men were +naturally the most capable and intelligent, the chief of the head men and +five others were hastened off, and instructed at once to proceed along +the south bank of the river until they discovered some landing place, +whence they must find means to cross the Ituri and find the settlement, +and obtain an immediate store of food. + +Before starting officers and men demanded to know from me whether I +believed the story of Arabs being ahead. I replied that I believed most +thoroughly, but that it was possible that the Manyuema had underestimated +the distance to gratify or encourage us and abate our anxiety. + +After informing the unfortunate cripples of our intention to proceed +forward until we could find food that we might not all be lost, and send +relief as quickly as it could be obtained, I consigned the fifty-two men, +eighty-one loads, and ten canoes in charge of Captain Nelson--bade him be +of good cheer, and hoisting our loads and boat on our shoulders, we +marched away. + +No more gloomy spot could have been selected for a camp than that sandy +terrace, encompassed by rocks and hemmed in narrowly by those dark woods, +which rose from the river's edge to the height of 600 feet, and pent in +the never-ceasing uproar created by the writhing and tortured stream and +the twin cataracts, that ever rivalled each other's thunder. The +imagination shudders at the hapless position of those crippled men, who +were doomed to remain inactive, to listen every moment to the awful sound +of that irreconcilable fury of wrathful waters, and the monotonous and +continuous roar of plunging rivers, to watch the leaping waves, coiling +and twisting into changing columns as they ever wrestled for mastery with +each other, and were dashed in white fragments of foam far apart by the +ceaseless force of driven currents; to gaze at the dark, relentless woods +spreading upward and around, standing perpetually fixed in dull green, +mourning over past ages, past times, and past generations; then think of +the night, with its palpable blackness, the dead black shadows of the +wooded hills, that eternal sound of fury, that ceaseless boom of the +cataracts, the indefinite forms born of nervousness and fearfulness, that +misery engendered by loneliness and creeping sense of abandonment; then +will be understood something of the true position of these poor men. + +And what of us trudging up these wooded slopes to gain the crest of the +forest uplands, to tramp on and on, whither we knew not, for how long a +time we dared not think, seeking for food with the double responsibility +weighing us down for these trustful, brave fellows with us, and for +those, no less brave and trustful, whom we had left behind at the bottom +of the horrible cañon! + +As I looked at the poor men struggling wearily onward it appeared to me +as though a few hours only were needed to ensure our fate. One day, +perhaps two days, and then life would ebb away. How their eyes searched +the wild woods for the red berries of the phrynia, and the tartish, +crimson, and oblong fruit of the amoma! How they rushed for the flat +beans of the forest, and gloated over their treasures of fungi! In short, +nothing was rejected in this severe distress to which we were reduced +except leaves and wood. We passed several abandoned clearings; and some +men chopped down pieces of banana stalk, then searched for wild herbs to +make potage, the bastard jack fruit, or the _fenessi_, and other huge +fruit became dear objects of interest as we straggled on. + + "Return we could not, nor + Continue where we were; to shift our place + Was to exchange one misery with another. + And every day that came, came to decay + A day's work in us. + +On the 7th of October we began at 6.30 A.M. to commence that funereal +pace through the trackless region on the crest of the forest uplands. We +picked up fungi, and the _matonga_ wild fruit, as we travelled, and after +seven hours' march we rested for the day. At 11 A.M. we had halted for +lunch at the usual hour. Each officer had economised his rations of +bananas. Two were the utmost that I could spare for myself. My comrades +were also as rigidly strict and close in their diet, and a cup of +sugarless tea closed the repast. We were sitting conversing about our +prospects, discussing the probabilities of our couriers reaching some +settlement on this day, or the next, and the time that it would take them +to return, and they desired to know whether in my previous African +experiences I had encountered anything so grievous as this. + +"No; not quite so bad as this," I replied. "We have suffered; but not to +such an extremity. Those nine days on the way into Ituru were wretched. +On our flight from Bumbiré we certainly suffered much hunger, and also +while floating down the Congo to trace its course our condition was much +to be pitied; but we had a little of something, and at least large hope. +The age of miracles is past, it is said, but why should they be? Moses +drew water from the rock at Horeb for the thirsty Israelites. Of water we +have enough and to spare. Elijah was fed by ravens at the brook Cherith, +but there is not a raven in all this forest. Christ was ministered unto +by angels. I wonder if any one will minister unto us?" + +Just then there was a sound as of a large bird whirring through the air. +Little Randy, my fox-terrier, lifted up a foot and gazed inquiringly; we +turned our heads to see, and that second the bird dropped beneath the +jaws of Randy, who snapped at the prize and held it fast, in a vice as of +iron. + +"There, boys," I said, "truly the gods are gracious. The age of miracles +is not past," and my comrades were seen gazing in delighted surprise at +the bird, which was a fine fat guinea fowl. It was not long before the +guinea fowl was divided, and Randy, its captor, had his lawful share, and +the little doggie seemed to know that he had grown in esteem with all +men, and we enjoyed our prize each with his own feelings. + +On the next day, in order to relieve the boat-bearers of their hard work, +Mr. Jephson was requested to connect the sections together, and two +hours after starting on the march came opposite an inhabited island. The +advance scouts seized a canoe and bore straight on to the island, to +snatch in the same unruly manner as Orlando, meat for the hungry. + +"What would you, unruly men?" + +"We would have meat! Two hundred stagger in these woods and reel with +faintness." + +[Illustration: RANDY SEIZES THE GUINEA FOWL.] + +The natives did not stand for further question, but vanished kindly, and +left their treasures of food. We received as our share two pounds of +Indian corn and half-a-pound of beans. Altogether about twenty-five +pounds of corn were discovered, which was distributed among the people. + +In the afternoon I received a note from Mr. Jephson, who was behind with +the boat: "For God's sake, if you can get any food at the village send us +some." + +We despatched answer to Jephson to hunt up the wounded elephant that I +had shot, and which had taken refuge on an island near him, and in reply +to his anxious letter, a small handful of corn. + +On the 9th of October 100 men volunteered to go across river and explore +inland from the north bank with a resolute intention not to return +without food of some kind. I went up river with the boat's crew, and +Stairs down river to strike inland by a little track in the hope that it +might lead to some village; those who were too dispirited to go far +wandered southward through the woods to search for wild fruit and forest +beans. This last article was about four times the size of a large garden +bean, encased in a brown leathery rind. At first we had contented +ourselves with merely skinning it and boiling it, but this produced +sickness of the stomach. An old woman captured on the island was seen to +prepare a dish of these beans by skinning them and afterwards cleaning +the inner covering, and finally scraping them as we would nutmegs. Out of +this floury substance she made some patties for her captor, who shouted +in ecstasies that they were good. Whereupon everybody bestirred +themselves to collect the beans, which were fairly plentiful. Tempted by +a "lady finger" cake of this article that was brought to me, I ventured +to try it, and found it sufficiently filling, and about as palatable as a +mess of acorns. Indeed, the flavour strongly reminded me of the acorn. +The fungi were of several varieties, some pure and perfect mushrooms, +others were of a less harmless kind; but surely the gods protected the +miserable human beings condemned to live on such things. Grubs were +collected, also slugs from the trees, caterpillars, and white ants--these +served for meat. The _mabengu_ (nux vomica) furnished the dessert, with +_fenessi_ or a species of bastard jack fruit. + +The following day some of the foragers from across the river returned +bringing nothing. They had discovered such emptiness on the north bank as +we had found on the south bank; but "Inshallah!" they said, "we shall +find food either to-morrow or the next day." + +In the morning I had eaten my last grain of Indian corn, and my last +portion of everything solid that was obtainable, and at noon the horrid +pains of the stomach had to be satisfied with something. Some potato +leaves brought me by Wadi Khamis, a headman, were bruised fine and +cooked. They were not bad, still the stomach ached from utter depletion. +Then a Zanzibari, with his face aglow with honest pride, brought me a +dozen fruit of the size and colour of prize pear, which emitted a most +pleasant fruity odour. He warranted them to be lovely, and declared that +the men enjoyed them, but the finest had been picked out for myself and +officers. He had also brought a pattie made out of the wood-bean flour +which had a rich custardy look about it. With many thanks I accepted this +novel repast, and I felt a grateful sense of fulness. In an hour, +however, a nausea attacked me, and I was forced to seek my bed. The +temples presently felt as if constricted by an iron band, the eyes +blinked strangely, and a magnifying glass did not enable me to read the +figures of Norie's Epitome. My servant, with the rashness of youth, had +lunched bravely on what I had shared with him of the sweetly-smelling +pear-like fruit, and consequently suffered more severely. Had he been in +a little cockle boat on a mad channel sea he could scarcely have +presented a more flabby and disordered aspect than had been caused by the +forest pears. + +Just at sunset the foragers of No. 1 Company, after an absence of +thirty-six hours, appeared from the N. bank, bringing sufficient +plantains to save the Europeans from despair and starvation; but the men +received only two plantains each, equal to four ounces of solid stuff, to +put into stomachs that would have required eight pounds to satisfy. + +The officers Stairs, Jephson, and Parke, had been amusing themselves the +entire afternoon in drawing fanciful menus, where such things figured +as:-- + + Filet de boeuf en Chartreuse. + + Petites bouchées aux huîtres de Ostende. + + Bécassines rôties à la Londres. + +Another had shown his Anglo-Saxon proclivities for solids such as:-- + + Ham and eggs and plenty of them, + + Roast beef and potatoes unlimited, + + A weighty plum pudding. + +There were two of the foragers missing, but we could not wait for them. +We moved from this starvation camp to one higher up, a distance of eleven +miles. + +A man of No. 3 Company dropped his box of ammunition into a deep affluent +and lost it. Kajeli stole a box of Winchester ammunition and absconded. +Salim stole a case containing Emin Pasha's new boots and two pairs of +mine, and deserted. Wadi Adam vanished with Surgeon Parke's entire kit. +Swadi, of No. 1 Company, left his box on the road, and departed himself +to parts unknown. Bull-necked Uchungu followed suit with a box of +Remington cartridges. + +On the 12th of October we marched four-and-a-half miles, E. by S. The +boat and crew were far below, struggling in rapids. We wished now to +cross the river to try our fortune on the N. bank. We searched for a +canoe, and saw one on the other side, but the river was 400 yards wide, +and the current was too strong against the best swimmers in their present +state of debility. + +Some scouts presently discovered a canoe fastened to an island only forty +yards from the south bank, which was situate a little above our halting +place. Three men volunteered, among whom was Wadi Asman, of the Pioneers, +a grave man, faithful, and of much experience in many African lands. +Twenty dollars reward was to be the prize of success. Asman lacked the +audacity of Uledi, the coxswain of the "advance," as well as his bold +high spirit, but was a most prudent and valuable man. + +These three men chose a small rapid for their venture, that they might +obtain a footing now and then on the rocks. At dusk two of them returned +to grieve us with the news that Asman had tried to swim with his +Winchester on his back, and had been swept by the strong current into a +whirlpool, and was drowned. + +We were unfortunate in every respect; our chiefs had not yet returned, we +were fearing for their fate, strong men deserted. Our rifles were rapidly +decreasing in number. Our ammunition was being stolen. Feruzi, the next +best man to Uledi as a sailor, soldier, carrier, good man and true, was +dying from a wound inflicted on the head by a savage's knife. + +The following day was also a halt. We were about to cross the river, and +we were anxious for our six chiefs, one of whom was Rashid bin Omar, the +"father of the people," as he was called. Equipped with only their +rifles, accoutrements and sufficient ammunition, such men ought to have +travelled in the week that had elapsed since our departure from Nelson's +camp over a hundred miles. If they, during that distance, could not +discover the Manyuema settlement, what chance had we, burdened with +loads, with a caravan of hungry and despairing men, who for a week had +fed on nothing but two plantains, berries, wild fruit, and fungi? Our men +had begun to suffer dearly during this protracted starvation. Three had +died the day before. + +Towards evening Jephson appeared with the boat, and brought a supply of +Indian corn, which sufficed to give twelve cupfuls to each white. It was +a reprieve from death for the Europeans. + +The next day, the 15th, having blazed trees around the camp, and drawn +broad arrows with charcoal for the guidance of the head men when they +should return, the Expedition crossed over to the north bank and camped +on the upper side of a range of hills. Feruzi Ali died of his wound soon +after. + +Our men were in such a desperately weak state, that I had not the heart +to command the boat to be disconnected for transport, as had a world's +treasure been spread out before them, they could not have exhibited +greater power than they were willing to give at a word. I stated the case +fairly to them thus:-- + +"You see, my men, our condition in brief is this. We started from +Yambuya 389 in number and took 237 loads with us. We had 80 extra +carriers to provide for those who by the way might become weak and +ailing. We left 56 men at Ugarrowwa's Settlement, and 52 with Captain +Nelson. We should have 271 left, but instead of that number we have only +200 to-day, including the chiefs who are absent. Seventy-one have either +died, been killed, or deserted. But there are only 150 of you fit to +carry anything, and therefore we cannot carry this boat any further. I +say, let us sink her here by the riverside, and let us press on to get +food for ourselves and those with Captain Nelson, who are wondering what +has become of us, before we all die in these woods. You are the carriers +of the boat--not we, Do you speak, what shall be done unto her?" + +Many suggestions were made by the officers and men, but Uledi of 'Through +the Dark Continent,' always Uledi--the ever faithful Uledi, spoke +straight to the purpose. "Sir, my advice is this. You go on with the +caravan and search for the Manyuema, and I and my crew will work at these +rapids, and pole, row, or drag her on as we can. After I have gone two +days up, if I do not see signs of the Manyuema I will send men after you +to keep touch with you. We cannot lose you, for a blind man could follow +such a track as the caravan makes." + +This suggestion was agreed by all to be the best, and it was arranged +that our rule of conduct should be as Uledi sketched out. + +We separated at 10 A.M., and in a short time I had my first experience +among the loftier hills of the Aruwimi valley. I led the caravan +northward through the trackless forest, sheering a little to the north +east to gain a spur, and using animal tracks when they served us. +Progress was very slow, the undergrowth was dense; berries of the +phrynium and fruit of the Amomum _fenessi_ and nux vomica, besides the +large wood beans and fungi of all sorts, were numerous, and each man +gathered a plentiful harvest. Unaccustomed to hills for years, our hearts +palpitated violently as we breasted the steep-wooded slopes, and cut +arid slashed at the obstructing creepers, bush and plants. + +Ah, it was a sad night, unutterably sad, to see so many men struggling on +blindly through that endless forest, following one white man who was +bound whither none knew, whom most believed did not know himself. They +were in a veritable hell of hunger already! What nameless horrors awaited +them further on none could conjecture? But what matter, death comes to +every man soon or late! Therefore we pushed on and on, broke through the +bush, trampled down the plants, wound along the crest of spurs zigzagging +from north-east to north-west, and descending to a bowl-like valley by a +clear stream, lunched on our corn and berries. + +During our mid-day halt, one Umari having seen some magnificent and ripe +_fenessi_ at the top of a tree thirty feet high, essayed to climb it, but +on gaining that height, a branch or his strength yielded and he tumbled +headlong upon the heads of two other men who were waiting to seize the +fruit. Strange to say, none of them were very seriously injured. Umari +was a little lame in the hip and one of those upon whom he fell +complained of a pain in the chest. + +At 3.30 after a terrible struggle through a suffocating wilderness of +arums, amoma, and bush, we came to a dark amphitheatral glen and at the +bottom found a camp just deserted by the natives, and in such hot haste +that they had thought it best not to burden themselves with their +treasures. Surely some divinity provided for us always in the most +stressful hours. Two bushels of Indian corn, and a bushel of beans +awaited us in this camp. + +My poor donkey from Zanzibar showed symptoms of surrender. Arums and +amoma every day since June 28th were no fit food for a dainty Zanzibar +ass, therefore to end his misery I shot him. The meat was as carefully +shared as though it were the finest venison, for a wild and famished mob +threatened to defy discipline. When the meat was fairly served a free +fight took place over the skin, the bones were taken up and crushed, the +hoofs were boiled for hours, there was nothing left of my faithful animal +but the spilled blood and hair; a pack of hyænas could not have made a +more thorough disposal of it. That constituent of the human being which +marks him as superior to all others of the animal creation was so +deadened by hunger that our men had become merely carnivorous bipeds, +inclined to be as ferocious as any beast of prey. + +On the 16th we crossed through four deep gorges one after another, +through wonderful growths of phrynia. The trees frequently bore _fenessi_ +nearly ripe, one foot long and eight inches in diameter. Some of this +fruit was equal to pineapple, it was certainly wholesome. Even the rotten +fruit was not rejected. When the _fenessi_ were absent, the wood-bean +tree flourished and kindly sprinkled the ground with its fruit. Nature +seemed to confess that the wanderers had borne enough of pain and grief. +The deepest solitudes showed increasing tenderness for the weary and +long-suffering. The phrynia gave us their brightest red berries, the +amoma furnished us with the finest and ripest scarlet fruit, the +_fenessi_ were in a state of perfection, the wood-beans were larger and +fatter, the streams of the wood glens were clear and cold; no enemy was +in sight, nothing was to be feared but hunger, and nature did its best +with her unknown treasures, shaded us with her fragrant and loving +shades, and whispered to us unspeakable things sweetly and tenderly. + +During the mid-day halt the men discussed our prospects. They said, with +solemn shaking of their heads, "Know you that such and such a man is +dead? that the other is lost! another will probably fall this afternoon! +the rest will perish to-morrow!" The trumpet summoned all to their feet, +to march on, and strive, and press forward to the goal. + +Half-an-hour later the pioneers broke through a growth of amoma, and +stepped on a road. And lo! on every tree we saw the peculiar "blaze" of +the Manyuema, a discovery that was transmitted by every voice from the +head to the rear of the column, and was received with jubilant cheers. + +"Which way, sir?" asked the delighted pioneers. + +"Right turn of course," I replied, feeling far more glad than any, and +fuller of longings for the settlement that was to end this terrible +period, and shorten the misery of Nelson and his dark followers. + +"Please God," they said, "to-morrow or the next day we shall have food," +which meant that after suffering unappeasable hunger for 336 hours, they +could patiently wait if it pleased God another thirty-six or sixty hours +more. + +We were all frightfully thin, the whites not so much reduced as our +coloured men. We thought of the future and abounded with hope, though +deep depression followed any inspection of the people. We regretted that +our followers did not have greater faith in us. Hunger followed by +despair killed many. Many freely expressed their thoughts and declared to +one another plainly that we knew not whither we were marching. And they +were not far wrong, for who knew what a day might bring forth in +unexplored depths of woods. But as they said, it was their fate to follow +us, and therefore they followed fate. They had fared badly and had +suffered greatly. It is hard to walk at all when weakness sets in through +emptiness; it is still worse to do so when burdened with sixty pounds +weight. Over fifty were yet in fair condition; 150 were skeletons covered +with ashy grey skins, jaded and worn out, with every sign of wretchedness +printed deep in their eyes, in their bodies and movements. These could +hardly do more than creep on and moan, and shed tears and sigh. My only +dog "Randy," alas! how feeble he had become! Meat he had not +tasted--except with me of the ass's meat--for weeks. Parched corn and +beans were not fit for a terrier, and _fenessi_ and _mabengu_, and such +other acid fruit he disdained, and so he declined, until he became as +gaunt as the pariah of a Moslem. Stairs had never failed me. Jephson +every now and then had been fortunate in discoveries of grain treasures, +and always showed an indomitable front, and Parke was ever striving, +patient, cheerful and gentle. Deep, deep down to undiscovered depths our +life in the forest had enabled me to penetrate human nature with all its +endurance and virtues. + +Along the track of the Manyuema it was easy to travel. Sometimes we came +to a maze of roads; but once the general direction was found, there was +no difficulty to point to the right one. It appeared to be well +travelled, and it was clearer every mile that we were approaching a +populous settlement. As recent tracks became more numerous, the bush +seemed more broken into, with many a halt and many wayward strayings. +Here and there trees had been lopped of their branches. Cording vines lay +frequently on the track; pads for native carriers had often been dropped +in haste. Most of the morning was expended in crossing a score of lazy, +oozy rillets, which caused large breadths of slime-covered swamp. Wasps +attacked the column at one crossing, and stung a man into high fever, and +being in such an emaciated condition there was little chance of his +recovery. After a march of seven miles south-eastwardly we halted on the +afternoon of the 17th. + +The night was ushered by a tempest which threatened to uproot the forest +and bear it to the distant west, accompanied by floods of rain, and a +severe cold temperature. Nevertheless, fear of famishing drove us to +begin the march at an early hour on the following day. In about an hour, +and-a-half we stood on the confines of a large clearing, but the fog was +so dense that we could discern nothing further than 200 feet in front. +Resting awhile to debate upon our course, we heard a sonorous voice +singing in a language none of us knew, and a lusty hail and an argument +with what appeared to be some humour. As this was not a land where +aborigines would dare to be so light-hearted and frivolous, this singing +we believed could proceed from no other people than those who knew they +had nothing to fear. I fired a Winchester rapidly in the air. The +response by heavy-loaded muskets revealed that these were the Manyuema +whom we had been so long seeking, and scarcely had their echoes ceased +their reverberations than the caravan relieved its joy by long continued +hurrahs. + +[Illustration: KILONGA LONGA'S STATION.] + +We descended the slope of the clearing to a little valley, and from all +sides of an opposite slope were seen lines of men and women issuing to +welcome us with friendly hails. We looked to the right and left and saw +thriving fields, Indian corn, rice, sweet potatoes and beans. The +well-known sounds of Arab greeting and hospitable tenders of friendship +burst upon our ears; and our hands were soon clasped by lusty huge +fellows, who seemed to enjoy life in the wilds as much as they could have +enjoyed it in their own lands. These came principally from Manyuema, +though their no less stout slaves, armed with percussion muskets and +carbine, echoed heartily their superiors' sentiments and professions. + +We were conducted up the sloping clearing through fields of luxuriant +grain, by troops of men and youngsters who were irrepressibly frolicsome +in their joy at the new arrivals and dawning promise of a holiday. On +arrival at the village we were invited to take our seats in deep shady +verandahs where we soon had to answer to hosts of questions and +congratulations. As the caravan filed past us to its allotted quarters +which men were appointed to show, numerous were the praises to God, +uttered by them for our marvellous escapes from the terrible wilderness +that stretched from their settlement of Ipoto to the Basopo Cataract, a +distance of 197 miles, praises in which in our inmost hearts each one of +our sorely tried caravan most heartily joined. + + + + +CHAPTER X. + +WITH THE MANYUEMA AT IPOTO. + + + The ivory hunters at Ipoto--Their mode of proceeding--The Manyuema + headmen and their raids--Remedy for preventing wholesale + devastations--Crusade preached by Cardinal Lavigerie--Our Zanzibar + chiefs--Anxiety respecting Captain Nelson and his followers--Our + men sell their weapons for food--Theft of Rifles--Their return + demanded--Uledi turns up with news of the missing chiefs--Contract + drawn up with the Manyuema headmen for the relief of Captain + Nelson--Jephson's report on his journey--Reports of Captain Nelson + and Surgeon Parke--The process of blood brotherhood between myself + and Ismaili--We leave Ipoto. + +This community of ivory hunters established at Ipoto had arrived, five +months previous to our coming, from the banks of the Lualaba, from a +point situated between the exits of the Lowwa and the Leopold into the +great river. The journey had occupied them seven-and-a-half months, and +they had seen neither grass nor open country, nor even heard of them +during their wanderings. They had halted a month at Kinnena on the Lindi, +and had built a station-house for their Chief Kilonga-Longa, who, when he +had joined them with the main body, sent on about 200 guns and 200 slave +carriers to strike further in a north-easterly direction, to discover +some other prosperous settlement far in advance of him, whence they could +sally out in bands to destroy, burn and enslave natives in exchange for +ivory. Through continual fighting, and the carelessness which the +unbalanced mind is so apt to fall into after one or more happy successes, +they had decreased in number within seven-and-a-half months into a force +of about ninety guns. On reaching the Lenda River they had heard of the +settlements of Ugarrowwa, and sheered off the limits of his raiding +circle to obtain a centre of their own, and, crossing the Lenda, they +succeeded in reaching the south bank of the Ituri, about south of their +present settlement at Ipoto. + +As the natives would not assist them over the river to the north bank, +they cut down a big tree and with axe and fire hollowed it into a +sizeable canoe which conveyed them across to the north bank to Ipoto. +Since that date they had launched out on one of the most sanguinary and +destructive careers to which even Tippu-Tib's or Tagamoyo's career offer +but poor comparison. Towards the Lenda and Ihuru Rivers, they had +levelled into black ashes every settlement, their rage for destruction +had even been vented on the plantain groves, every canoe on the rivers +had been split into pieces, every island had been searched, and into the +darkest recesses, whither a slight track could be traced, they had +penetrated with only one dominating passion, which was to kill as many of +the men and capture as many of the women and children as craft and +cruelty would enable them. However far northward or eastward these people +had reached, one said nine days' march, another fifteen days; or wherever +they had gone they had done precisely as we had seen between the Lenda +River and Ipoto, and reduced the forest land into a howling wilderness, +and throughout all the immense area had left scarcely a hut standing. + +What these destroyers had left of groves and plantations of plantain and +bananas, manioc, and corn-fields, the elephant, chimpanzee, and monkeys +had trampled and crushed into decaying and putrid muck, and in their +places had sprung up, with the swiftness of mushrooms, whole hosts of +large-leafed plants native to the soil, briars, calamus and bush, which +the natives had in times past suppressed with their knives, axes and +hoes. With each season the bush grew more robust and taller, and a few +seasons only were wanted to cover all traces of former habitation and +labour. + +From Ipoto to the Lenda the distance by our track is 105 miles. Assume +that this is the distance eastward to which their ravages have extended, +and northward and southward, and we have something like 44,000 square +miles. We know what Ugarrowwa has done from the preceding pages, what he +was still doing with all the vigour of his mind, and we know what the +Arabs in the Stanley Falls are doing on the Lumami and what sort of +devil's work Mumi Muhala, and Bwana Mohamed are perpetrating around Lake +Ozo, the source of the Lulu, and, once we know where their centres are +located, we may with a pair of compasses draw great circles round each, +and park off areas of 40,000 and 50,000 square miles into which +half-a-dozen resolute men, aided by their hundreds of bandits, have +divided about three-fourths of the Great Upper Congo Forest for the sole +purpose of murder, and becoming heirs to a few hundred tusks of ivory. + +At the date of our arrival at Ipoto, there were the Manyuema headmen, +physically fine stalwart fellows, named Ismailia, Khamisi, and +Sangarameni, who were responsible to Kilonga-Longa, their chief, for the +followers and operations entrusted to their charge. At alternate periods +each set out from Ipoto to his own special sub-district. Thus, to +Ismailia, all roads from Ipoto to Ibwiri and east to the Ituri were given +as his special charge. Khamisi's area was along the line of the Ihuru, +then east to Ibwiri, to Sangarameni all the land east and west between +the Ibina and Ihuru affluents of the Ituri. Altogether there were 150 +fighting men, but only about 90 were armed with guns. Kilonga-Longa was +still at Kinnena, and was not expected for three months yet. + +The fighting men under the three leaders consisted of Bakusu, Balegga, +and Basongora, youths who were trained by the Manyuema as raiders in the +forest region, in the same manner as in 1876, Manyuema youths had been +trained by Arabs and Waswahili of the east coast. We see in this +extraordinary increase in number of raiders in the Upper Congo basin the +fruits of the Arab policy of killing off the adult aborigines and +preserving the children. The girls are distributed among the Arab, +Swahili and Manyuema harems, the boys are trained to carry arms and are +exercised in the use of them. When they are grown tall and strong enough +they are rewarded with wives from the female servants of the harem, and +then are admitted partners in these bloody ventures. So many parts of the +profits are due to the great proprietor, such as Tippu-Tib, or Said bin +Abed, a less number becomes the due of the headmen, and the remainder +becomes the property of the bandits. At other times large ivories, over +35 lbs. each, become the property of the proprietor, all over 20 lbs. to +35 lbs. belong to the headmen, scraps, pieces and young ivory are +permitted to be kept by the lucky finders. Hence every member of the +caravan is inspired to do his best. The caravan is well armed and well +manned by the proprietor, who stays at home on the Congo or Lualaba river +indulging in rice and pilaf and the excesses of his harem, the headmen, +inspired by greed and cupidity, become ferocious and stern, the bandits +fling themselves upon a settlement without mercy to obtain the largest +share of loot, of children, flocks, poultry, and ivory. + +All this would be clearly beyond their power if they possessed no +gunpowder. Not a mile beyond their settlements would the Arabs and their +followers dare venture. It is more than likely that if gunpowder was +prohibited entry into Africa there would be a general and quick migration +to the sea of all Arabs from inner Africa, as the native Chiefs would be +immeasurably stronger than any combination of Arabs armed with spears. +What possible chance could Tippu-Tib, Abed bin Salim, Ugarrowwa and +Kilonga-Longa have against the Basongora and Bakusu? How could the Arabs +of Ujiji resist the Wajiji and Warundi, or how could those of Unyamyembé +live among the bowmen and spearmen of Unyamwezi? + +There is only one remedy for these wholesale devastations of African +aborigines, and that is the solemn combination of England, Germany, +France, Portugal, South and East Africa, and Congo State against the +introduction of gunpowder into any part of the Continent except for the +use of their own agents, soldiers, employés, or seizing upon every tusk +of ivory brought out, as there is not a single piece nowadays which has +been gained lawfully. Every tusk, piece and scrap in the possession of an +Arab trader has been steeped and dyed in blood. Every pound weight has +cost the life of a man, woman or child, for every five pounds a hut has +been burned, for every two tusks a whole village has been destroyed, +every twenty tusks have been obtained at the price of a district with all +its people, villages and plantations. It is simply incredible that, +because ivory is required for ornaments or billiard games, the rich heart +of Africa should be laid waste at this late year of the nineteenth +century, signalized as it has been by so much advance, that populations, +tribes and nations should be utterly destroyed. Whom after all does this +bloody seizure of ivory enrich? Only a few dozens of half-castes, Arab +and Negro, who, if due justice were dealt to them, should be made to +sweat out the remainder of their piratical lives in the severest penal +servitude. + +On arriving in civilization after these terrible discoveries, I was told +of a crusade that had been preached by Cardinal Lavigerie, and of a +rising desire in Europe to effect by force of arms in the old crusader +style and to attack the Arabs and their followers in their strongholds in +Central Africa. It is just such a scheme as might have been expected from +men who applauded Gordon when he set out with a white wand and six +followers to rescue all the garrisons of the Soudan, a task which 14,000 +of his countrymen, under one of the most skilful English generals, would +have found impossible at that date. We pride ourselves upon being +practical and sensible men, and yet every now and then let some +enthusiast--whether Gladstone, Gordon, Lavigerie or another--speak, and a +wave of Quixotism spreads over many lands. The last thing I heard in +connection with this mad project is that a band of 100 Swedes, who have +subscribed £25 each, are about to sail to some part of the East Coast of +Africa, and proceed to Tanganika to commence ostensibly the extirpation +of the Arab slave-trader, but in reality to commit suicide. + +However, these matters are not the object of this chapter. We are about +to have a more intimate acquaintance with the morals of the Manyuema, and +to understand them better than we ever expected we should. + +They had not heard a word or a whisper of our Headmen whom we had +despatched as couriers to obtain relief for Nelson's party, and, as it +was scarcely possible that a starving caravan would accomplish the +distance between Nelson's Camp and Ipoto before six active and +intelligent men, we began to fear that among the lost men we should have +to number our Zanzibari chiefs. Their track was clear as far as the +crossing-place of the 14th and 15th December. It was most probable that +the witless men would continue up the river until they were overpowered +by the savages of some unknown village. Our minds were never free from +anxiety respecting Capt. Nelson and his followers. Thirteen days had +already elapsed since our parting. During this period their position was +not worse than ours had been. The forest was around them as it was around +us. They were not loaded down as we were. The most active men could +search about for food, or they could employ their canoes to ferry +themselves over to the scene of the forage of the 3rd December, one day's +journey by land, or an hour by water. Berries and fungi abounded on the +crest of the hills above their camp as in other parts. Yet we were +anxious, and one of my first duties was to try and engage a relief party +to take food to Nelson's camp. I was promised that it should be arranged +next day. + +For ourselves we received three goats and twelve baskets of Indian corn, +which, when distributed, gave six ears of corn per man. It furnished us +with two good meals, and many must have felt revived and refreshed, as I +did. + +On the first day's halt at Ipoto we suffered considerable lassitude. +Nature either furnishes a stomach and no food, or else furnishes a feast +and robs us of all appetite. On the day before, and on this, we had fed +sumptuously on rice and pilaf and goat stew, but now we began to suffer +from many illnesses. The masticators had forgotten their office, and the +digestive organs disdained the dainties, and affected to be deranged. +Seriously, it was the natural result of over-eating; corn mush, grits, +parched corn, beans and meat are solids requiring gastric juice, which, +after being famished for so many days, was not in sufficient supply for +the eager demand made for it. + +The Manyuema had about 300 or 400 acres under corn, five acres under +rice, and as many under beans. Sugar-cane was also grown largely. They +possessed about 100 goats--all stolen from the natives. In their +store-huts they had immense supplies of Indian corn drawn from some +village near the Ihuru, and as yet unshucked. Their banana plantations +were well stocked with fruit. Indeed the condition of every one in the +settlement was prime. + +It is but right to acknowledge that we were received on the first day +with ostentatious kindness, but on the third day something of a +strangeness sprang up between us. Their cordiality probably rose from a +belief that our loads contained some desirable articles, but +unfortunately the first-class beads that would have sufficed for the +purchase of all their stock of corn were lost by the capsizing of a canoe +near Panga Falls, and the gold braided Arab burnooses were stolen below +Ugarrowwa, by deserters. Disappointed at not receiving the expected +quantity of fine cloth or fine beads, they proceeded systematically to +tempt our men to sell everything they possessed, shirts, caps, daoles, +waist cloths, knives, belts, to which, being their personal property, we +could make no objection. But the lucky owners of such articles having +been seen by others less fortunate, hugely enjoying varieties of +succulent food, were the means of inspiring the latter to envy and +finally to theft. The unthrifty and reckless men sold their ammunition, +accoutrements, bill hooks, ramrods, and finally their Remington Rifles. +Thus, after escaping the terrible dangers of starvation and such +injuries as the many savage tribes could inflict on us, we were in near +peril of becoming slaves to the Arab slaves. + +Despite entreaties for corn, we could obtain no more than two ears per +man per day. I promised to pay triple price for everything received, on +the arrival of the rear column, but with these people a present +possession is better than a prospective one. They professed to doubt that +we had cloth, and to believe that we had travelled all this distance to +fight them. We represented on the other hand that all we needed were six +ears of corn per day during nine days' rest. Three rifles disappeared. +The Headmen denied all knowledge of them. We were compelled to reflect +that, if it were true, they suspected we entertained sinister intentions +towards them, that surely the safest and craftiest policy would be to +purchase our arms secretly, and disarm us altogether, when they could +enforce what terms they pleased on us. + +On the 21st six more rifles were sold. At this rate the Expedition would +be wrecked in a short time, for a body of men without arms in the heart +of the great forest, with a host of men to the eastward and a large body +to the westward depending upon them, were lost beyond hope of salvation. +Both advance and retreat were equally cut off, and no resource would be +left but absolute submission to the chief who chose to assert himself to +be our master or Death. Therefore I proposed for my part to struggle +strongly against such a fate, and either to provoke it instantly, or ward +it off by prompt action. + +A muster was made, the five men without arms were sentenced to +twenty-five lashes each and to be tied up. After a considerable fume and +fuss had been exhibited, a man stepped up, as one was about to undergo +punishment and begged permission to speak. + +"This man is innocent, sir." "I have his rifle in my hut, I seized it +last night from Juma (one of the cooks), son of Forkali, as he brought it +to a Manyuema to sell. It may be Juma stole it from this man. I know that +all these men have pleaded that their rifles have been stolen by others, +while they slept. It may be true as in this case." Meantime Juma had +flown, but was found later on hiding in the corn fields. He confessed +that he had stolen two, and had taken them to the informer to be disposed +of for corn, or a goat, but it was solely at the instigation of the +informer. It may have been true, for scarcely one of them but was quite +capable of such a course, but the story was lame, and unreasonable in +this case and was rejected. Another now came up and recognized Juma as +the thief who had abstracted his rifle--and having proved his statement +and confession having been made--the prisoner was sentenced to immediate +execution, which was accordingly carried out by hanging. + +It now being proved beyond a doubt that the Manyuema were purchasing our +rifles at the rate of a few ears of corn per gun, I sent for the head +men, and make a formal demand for their instant restitution, otherwise +they would be responsible for the consequences. They were inclined to be +wrathy at first. They drove the Zanzibaris from the village out into the +clearing, and there was every prospect of a fight, or as was very +probable, that the Expedition was about to be wrecked. Our men, being so +utterly demoralized, and utterly broken in spirit from what they had +undergone, were not to be relied on, and as they were ready to sell +themselves for corn--there was little chance of our winning a victory in +case of a struggle. It requires fulness of stomach to be brave. At the +same time death was sure to conclude us in any event, for to remain +quiescent under such circumstances tended to produce an ultimate appeal +to arms. With those eleven rifles, 3000 rounds of ammunition had been +sold. No option presented itself to me than to be firm in my demand for +the rifles; it was reiterated, under a threat that I would proceed to +take other means--and as a proof of it they had but to look at the body +hanging from a tree, for if we proceeded to such extremities as putting +to death one of our own men, they certainly ought to know that we should +feel ourselves perfectly prepared to take vengeance on those who had +really caused his death by keeping open doors to receive stolen +property. + +After an hour's storming in their village they brought five rifles to me, +and to my astonishment pointed the sellers of them. Had it not been +impolitic in the first place to drive things to the extreme, I should +have declined receiving one of them back before all had been returned, +and could I have been assured of the aid of fifty men I should have +declared for a fight; but just at this juncture Uledi, the faithful +coxswain of the _Advance_, strode into camp, bringing news that the boat +was safe at the landing-place of Ipoto and of his discovery of the six +missing chiefs in a starving and bewildered state four miles from the +settlement. This produced a revulsion of feelings. Gratitude for the +discovery of my lost men, the sight of Uledi--the knowledge that after +all, despite the perverseness of human nature, I had some faithful +fellows, left me for the time speechless. + +Then the tale was told to Uledi, and he undertook the business of +eradicating the hostile feelings of the Manyuema, and pleaded with me to +let bygones be bygones on the score that the dark days were ended, and +happy days he was sure were in store for us. + +"For surely, dear master," he said, "after the longest night comes day, +and why not sunshine after darkness with us? I think of how many long +nights and dark days we pulled through in the old times when we pierced +Africa together, and now let your heart be at peace. Please God we shall +forget our troubles before long." + +The culprits were ordered to be bound until morning. Uledi, with his bold +frank way, sailed straight into the affections of the Manyuema headmen. +Presents of corn were brought to me, apologies were made and accepted. +The corn was distributed among the people, and we ended this troublesome +day, which had brought us all to the verge of dissolution, in much +greater content than could have been hoped from its ominous +commencement. + +Our long wandering chiefs who were sent as heralds of our approach to +Ipoto arrived on Sunday the 23rd. They surely had made but a fruitless +quest, and they found us old residents of the place they had been +despatched to seek. Haggard, wan and feeble from seventeen days feeding +on what the uninhabited wilderness afforded, they were also greatly +abashed at their failure. They had reached the Ibina River which flows +from the S.E., and struck it two days above the confluence with the +Ituri; they had then followed the tributary down to the junction, had +found a canoe and rowed across to the right bank, where they had nearly +perished from hunger. Fortunately Uledi had discovered them in time, had +informed them of the direction of Ipoto, and they had crawled as they +best could to our camp. + +Before night, Sangarameni, the third head man, appeared from a raid with +fifteen fine ivories. He said he had penetrated a twenty days' journey, +and from a high hill had viewed an open country all grass land. + +Out of a supply I obtained on this day I was able to give two ears of +corn per man, and to store a couple of baskets for Nelson's party. But +events were not progressing smoothly, I could obtain no favourable answer +to my entreaty for a relief party. One of our men had been speared to +death by the Manyuema on a charge of stealing corn from the fields. One +had been hanged, twenty had been flogged for stealing ammunition, another +had received 200 cuts from the Manyuema for attempting to steal. If only +the men could have reasoned sensibly during these days, how quickly +matters could have been settled otherwise! + +I had spoken and warned them with all earnestness to "endure, and cheer +up," and that there were two ways of settling all this, but that I was +afraid of them only, for they preferred the refuse of the Manyuema to our +wages and work. The Manyuema were proving to them what they might expect +of them; and with us the worst days were over; all we had to do was to +march beyond the utmost reach of the Manyuema raids, when we should all +become as robust as they. Bah! I might as well have addressed my appeals +to the trees of the forest as unto wretches so sodden with despair. + +The Manyuema had promised me three several times by this day to send +eighty men as a relief party to Nelson's camp, but the arrival of +Sangarameni, and misunderstandings, and other trifles, had disturbed the +arrangements. + +On the 24th firing was heard on the other side of the river, and, under +the plea that it indicated the arrival of Kilonga-Longa, the relief +caravan was again prevented from setting out. + +The next day, those who had fired, arrived in camp, and proved to be the +Manyuema knaves whom we had seen on the 2nd of October. Out of fifteen +men they had lost one man from an arrow wound. They had wandered for +twenty-four days to find the track, but having no other loads than +provisions these had lasted with economy for fifteen days, but for the +last nine days they had subsisted on mushrooms and wild fruit. + +On this evening I succeeded in drawing a contract, and getting the three +headmen to agree to the following:-- + +"To send thirty men to the relief of Captain Nelson, with 400 ears of +corn for his party. + +"To provide Captain Nelson and Surgeon Parke, and all sick men unable to +work in the fields, with provisions, until our return from Lake Albert. + +"The service of a guide from Ipoto to Ibwiri, for which they were to be +paid one bale and a half of cloth on the arrival of the rear column." + +It was drawn up in Arabic by Rashid, and in English by myself, and +witnessed by three men. + +For some fancy articles of personal property I succeeded in purchasing +for Mr. Jephson and Capt. Nelson 250 ears of Indian corn, and for 250 +pistol cartridges I bought another quantity, and for an ivory-framed +mirror from a dressing-case purchased two baskets full; for three bottles +of ottar of roses obtained three fowls, so that I had 1000 ears of corn +for the relieving and relieved parties. + +On the 26th Mr. Mounteney Jephson, forty Zanzibaris, and thirty Manyuema +slaves started on their journey to Nelson's camp. I cannot do better than +introduce Mr. Jephson's report on his journey. + + "Arab Settlement at Ipoto, + "_November 4th, 1887_. + + "Dear Sir, + + "I left at midday on October 26th, and arrived at the river and + crossed over with 30 Manyuema and 40 Zanzibaris under my charge the + same afternoon and camped on landing. The next morning we started + off early and reached the camp, where we had crossed the river, + when we were wandering about in a starving condition in search of + the Arabs, by midday the signs and arrow heads we had marked on the + trees to show the chiefs we had crossed were still fresh. I reached + another of our camps that night. The next day we did nearly three + of our former marches. The camp where Feruzi Ali had got his death + wound, and where we had spent three such miserable days of hunger + and anxiety, looked very dismal as we passed through it. During the + day we passed the skeletons of three of our men who had fallen down + and died from sheer starvation, they were grim reminders of the + misery through which we had so lately gone. + + "On the morning of the 29th I started off as soon as it was + daylight, determining to reach Nelson that day and decide the + question as to his being yet alive. Accompanied by one man only, I + soon found myself far ahead of my followers. As I neared Nelson's + camp a feverish anxiety to know his fate possessed me, and I pushed + on through streams and creeks, by banks and bogs, over which our + starving people had slowly toiled with the boat sections. All were + passed by quickly to-day, and again the skeletons in the road + testified to the trials through which we had passed. As I came down + the hill into Nelson's camp, not a sound was heard but the groans + of two dying men in a hut close by, the whole place had a deserted + and woe-begone look. I came quietly round the tent and found Nelson + sitting there; we clasped hands, and then, poor fellow! he turned + away and sobbed, and muttered something about being very weak. + + "Nelson was greatly changed in appearance, being worn and haggard + looking, with deep lines about his eyes and mouth. He told me his + anxiety had been intense, as day after day passed and no relief + came; he had at last made up his mind that something had happened + to us, and that we had been compelled to abandon him. He had lived + chiefly upon fruits and fungus which his two boys had brought in + from day to day. Of the fifty-two men you left with him, only five + remained, of whom two were in a dying state. All the rest had + either deserted him or were dead. + + "He has himself given you an account of his losses from death and + desertion. I gave him the food you sent him, which I had carefully + watched on the way, and he had one of the chickens and some + porridge cooked at once, it was the first nourishing food he had + tasted for many days. After I had been there a couple of hours my + people came in and all crowded round the tent to offer him their + congratulations. + + "You remember Nelson's feet had been very bad for some days before + we left him, he had hardly left the tent the whole time he had been + here. At one time he had had ten ulcers on one foot, but he had now + recovered from them in a great measure and said he thought he would + be able to march slowly. On the 30th we began the return march. I + gave out most of the loads to the Manyuema and Zanzibaris, but was + obliged to leave thirteen boxes of ammunition and seven other + loads, these I buried, and Parke will be able to fetch them later + on. + + "Nelson did the marches better than I expected, though he was much + knocked up at the end of each day. On the return march we crossed + the river lower down and made our way up the right bank and struck + your old road a day's march from the Arab camp. Here again we + passed more skeletons, at one place there were three within 200 + yards of each other. + + "On the fifth day, that is November 3rd, we reached the Arab camp, + and Nelson's relief was accomplished. He has already picked up + wonderfully in spite of the marching, but he cannot get sleep at + night and is still in a nervous and highly strung state; the rest + in the Arab camp will, I trust, set him up again. It is certain + that in his state of health he could not have followed us in our + wanderings in search of food, he must have fallen by the way. + + "I am &c., &c. + "(Signed) A. J. Mounteney Jephson." + +The following are the reports of Captain Nelson and Surgeon Parke. + + "Arab Village, Ipoto, + "_6th November, 1887_, + + "Dear Sir, + + "Mr. Jephson arrived at my camp on the 29th October with the men + for the loads and with the food you sent for me. Many thanks for + the food, it was badly needed. He will tell you what state he found + me in and of the few men still alive. + + "You left me on the 6th October last; on the morning of the 9th I + got up a canoe and sent Umari and thirteen of the best men I could + find (they were all very bad) over the river to look for food. On + the 8th Assani (No. 1 Company) came to me and said that he had + returned from the column sick. Same day Uledi's brother came into + camp, told me he had lost the road while looking for bananas, near + the camp, where we met the Manyuema. On the 10th I found that Juma, + one of Stairs' chiefs, had cleared in the night with ten men, and + stolen a canoe and gone down river. On the 11th I counted the men + and could only find seventeen (I had fifty-two the first day); the + rest had gone away either after the column or down river. On the + 14th one man died. Umari returned with very few bananas, about + enough for two days; however, they were very welcome, as I had + nothing but herbs and fungi to eat up to this time. On the 15th + another man died, and I found that Saadi (No. 1.) with some other + men had come into camp in the night and stolen the canoe (Umari had + re-crossed the river in) and gone down river. On the 17th Umari + went away with twenty-one men to look for food; 19th, man died; + 22nd, two men died; 23rd, man died; 29th, two men died; Jephson + arrived; 30th, one man died; we left camp on way here. Umari had + not returned; he, however, if alive, will come on here, I feel + sure, but how many men with him I cannot tell, perhaps five or six + may reach here with him. With the exception of the few bananas I + got from Umari I lived entirely on herbs, fungi, and a few mabengu. + I had ten ulcers on my left leg and foot and so was unable to look + for food myself and was kept alive entirely by my two boys and + little Baruk, one of my company, and Abdalla, a man Stairs left + with me. I was very weak when Jephson arrived. Now, however, I feel + a little better. We arrived at the village on the 3rd November, the + chief Ismail brought me the day I came a very small quantity of + coarse meal and two small dried fish, about enough for one meal. + + "Yesterday, no food having come for two days, we sent for it, and + after a good deal of trouble Ismail sent us a little meal. At + present I am living on my clothes; we get hardly anything from the + Chief. To-day Dr. Parke and I went to the Chief, with Hamis Pari as + interpreter, and talked to him about food. He told us that _no + arrangement had been made by you_ for _my_ food, and that he was + feeding the Doctor and me entirely from his own generosity, and he + refused to feed our boys, three in number (fewer we cannot possibly + do with), as you never told him to do so. + + "I have the honour to be, + &c., &c." + "R. H. Nelson." + + "Arab Camp, Ipoto, + "_November 6th, 1887_. + + "My dear Mr. Stanley, + + "Captain Nelson and Mr. Jephson arrived here on the 3rd inst. a few + of the Zanzibaris and Manyuema men getting in with their loads the + previous day. Of all those men left at Nelson's camp, only five + have arrived here, the remaining live ones were away on a foraging + tour with Umari, when the relief party arrived. It is very likely + that some of them may find their way here; if so, I shall get + Ismaili to allow them to work for their food. Nelson staggered into + camp greatly changed in appearance, a complete wreck after the + march, his features shrunken and pinched, and a frame reduced to + half its former size. I have done the best I could for him + medically, but good nourishing food is what he requires to restore + him to his health; and I regret to say that my experience here and + the conversation which we had to-day with Ismaili goes to show that + we shall have to exist on scanty fare. Since you left, I have had + some flour and corn from the chiefs, but this was generally after + sending for it several times. By a lucky accident I got a goat, + most of which I distributed amongst the sick men here, for I am + informed by Ismaili, through H. Pari, that only those who work in + the field get food, and there are some here who certainly cannot do + so; therefore they are trusting to the generosity of the other men, + who get five heads of corn each day they work. Both Nelson and + myself have much trouble in getting food from Ismaili for + ourselves, and he has refused to feed our boys, who are absolutely + necessary to draw water, cook, &c., &c., although I have reduced + mine to one. + + "Nelson and myself went and saw him to day (Hamis Pari, + interpreter), and Ismaili stated that you had told the chiefs that + a big Mzungu was to come (Nelson), and he would make his own + arrangements about food, and that I was here living on his + (Ismaili's) generosity, as no arrangements had been made for me. I + reminded him of the conversation you had with him in your tent the + evening you called me down and gave me your gold watch, and I said + that you had told me that you had made a written arrangement with + the chiefs that both Nelson and myself should be _provisioned_. We + both told him that we did not want goats and fowls, but simply what + he can give us. Not having seen any agreement, I could not argue + further, but asked to see the document, so that we might convince + him; this he said he could not do, as Hamis, the Chief, had it, and + he was away, and would not return for two months. He however sent + us up some corn shortly afterwards. This is a very unhappy state of + affairs for us who shall have to remain here for so long a time. + Nelson has sold much of his clothes, and out of my scanty supply + (my bag having been lost on the march), I have been obliged to + make a further sale so as to provide ourselves with sufficient + food. + +[Illustration: THE RELIEF OF NELSON AND SURVIVORS AT STARVATION CAMP.] + + "We shall get along here as best we can, and sacrifice much to keep + on friendly terms with the Arabs, as it is of such essential + importance. I sincerely hope you will have every success in + attaining the object of the Expedition, and that we shall all have + an opportunity of meeting soon and congratulating Emin Pasha on his + relief. + + "With best wishes, &c., + (Signed) "T. H. Parke. + "A.M.D. + + "Arab Village, Ipoto, + "_10th November, 1887_. + + "Dear Sir, + + "I am sorry to have to tell you that several attempts have been + made to rob the hut, and last night unfortunately they managed to + get a box of ammunition out of Parke's tent while we were having + dinner; also one attempt to burn the hut, which happily I + frustrated, owing to my not being able to sleep well. We have + spoken to the Chief Ismail about the thieving: he says it is done + by Zanzibaris and not by his people; but if there were no sale for + the cartridges they would not be stolen. It is of course most + unfortunate. Since Jephson left, the enormous quantity of forty + small heads of Indian corn has been given to us by Ismail; this is + of course quite absurd; as we cannot live on it, we get herbs, with + which we supplement our scanty fare. + + "Uledi returned this afternoon and goes on to-morrow, and by him I + send this letter. + + "With kindest regards to you, Sir, Stairs and Jephson. + + "I have the honour to be, &c., &c., + (Signed) "R. H. Nelson. + + P.S.--Just as I finished this letter the Chief sent us a little + meal, which evidently was done so that Uledi who was waiting for + the letter could tell you that we were getting plenty (!!) of + food. + + "H. M. Stanley, Esq., + + "Commanding E. P. R. Expedition." + +On the evening of the 26th Ismaili entered my hut, and declared that he +had become so attached to me that he would dearly love to go through the +process of blood-brotherhood with me. As I was about to entrust Captain +Nelson and Surgeon Parke and about thirty sick men to the charge of +himself and brother chiefs, I readily consented, though it was somewhat +_infra dig_. to make brotherhood with a slave, but as he was powerful in +that bloody gang of bandits, I pocketed my dignity and underwent the +ceremony. I then selected a five-guinea rug, silk handkerchiefs, a couple +of yards of crimson broadcloth, and a few other costly trifles. Finally I +made another written agreement for guides to accompany me to the distance +of fifteen camps, which he said was the limit of his territory, and good +treatment of my officers, and handed to him a gold watch and chain, value +£49 in London, as pledge of this agreement, in presence of Surgeon +Parke. + +The next day after leaving Surgeon Parke to attend to his friend Nelson +and twenty-nine men, we left Ipoto with our reduced force to strive once +more with the hunger of the wilderness. + + + + +CHAPTER XI. + +THROUGH THE FOREST TO MAZAMBONI'S PEAK. + + + In the country of the Balessé--Their houses and clearings--Natives + of Bukiri--The first village of dwarfs--Our rate of progress + increased--The road from Mambungu's--Halts at East and West + Indékaru--A little storm between "Three o'clock" and Khamis--We + reach Ibwiri--Khamis and the "vile Zanzibaris"--The Ibwiri + clearing--Plentiful provisions--The state of my men; and what they + had recently gone through--Khamis and party explore the + neighbourhood--And return with a flock of goats--Khamis captures + Boryo, but is released--Jephson returns from the relief of Captain + Nelson--Departure of Khamis and the Manyuema--Memorandum of charges + against Messrs. Kilonga-Longa & Co. of Ipoto--Suicide of + Simba--Sali's reflections on the same--Lieutenant Stairs + reconnoitres--Muster and re-organisation at Ibwiri--Improved + condition of the men--Boryo's village--Balessé customs--East + Indenduru--We reach the outskirts of the forest--Mount Pisgah--The + village of Iyugu--Heaven's light at last! The beautiful + grass-land--We drop across an ancient crone--Indésura and its + products--Juma's capture--The Ituri river again--We emerge upon a + rolling plain--And forage in some villages--The mode of hut + construction--The district of the Babusessé--Our Mbiri + captives--Natives attack the camp--The course of the Ituri--The + natives of Abunguma--Our fare since leaving Ibwiri--Mazamboni's + Peak--The east Ituri--A mass of plantations--Demonstration by the + natives--Our camp on the crest of Nzera-Kum--"Be strong and of a + good courage"--Friendly intercourse with the natives--We are + compelled to disperse them--Peace arranged--Arms of the + Bandussuma. + +We marched for two hours to Yumbu, and in four and a quarter hours on the +following day to Busindi. + +We were now in the country of the Balessé. The architecture was peculiar. +Its peculiarity consisted in a long street flanked by a long low wooden +building, or rather planked building, on either side, 200, 300, or 400 +feet long. At first sight one of these villages appeared like a long +gable-roofed structure sawn in exact half along the ridge of the roof, +and as if each half house had been removed backward for a distance of 20 +or 30 feet, and then along the inner sides been boarded up, and pierced +with low doors, to obtain entrance into independent apartments. The light +wood of the Rubiacæ affords good material for this kind of house. A +sizeable tree, 1 foot 18 inches, or 2 feet in diameter, is felled, and +the log is cut into short pieces from four to six feet in length; the +pieces are easily split by hard wedges, and with their small neat adzes +they contrive to shape the plank smooth, tolerably even, and square. They +are generally an inch or an inch and a quarter thick. For what is called +the ceiling or inner boarding, the boards are thinner and narrower. When +a sufficient number of boards and planks are ready, the inner ceiling is +lashed to the uprights, frequently in as neat a fashion as a carpenter's +apprentice might do it with saw, nails and hammer; on the outer side of +the uprights are lashed the thicker planks, or broad slabs, the hollow +between the inner and outer frame is then stuffed with the phrynia, or +banana leaves. The wall facing the street may be 9 feet high, the back +wall facing the forest or clearing is 4 or 4-1/2 feet high, the width of +the house varies from 7 to 10 feet. Altogether it is a comfortable and +snug mode of building, rather dangerous in case of fire, but very +defensible, with trifling labour. + +[Illustration: SHIELDS OF THE BALESSÉ.] + +Another peculiarity of the Balessé is the condition of their clearings, +and some of these are very extensive, quite a mile and a half in +diameter, and the whole strewn with the relics, débris, and timber of the +primeval forest. Indeed I cannot compare a Balessé clearing to anything +better than a mighty abattis surrounding the principal village, and over +this abattis the traveller has to find his way. As one steps out of the +shadow of the forest, the path is at first, may be, along the trunk of a +great tree for 100 feet, it then turns at right angles along a great +branch a few feet; he takes a few paces on the soil, then finds himself +in front of a massive prostrate tree-stem 3 feet in diameter or so; he +climbs over that, and presently finds himself facing the out-spreading +limbs of another giant, amongst which he must creep, and twist, and crawl +to get footing on a branch, then from the branch to the trunk, he takes a +half turn to the right, walks along the tree from which, increasing in +thickness, he must soon climb on top of another that has fallen across +and atop of it, when after taking a half-turn to the left, he must +follow, ascending it until he is 20 feet above the ground. When he has +got among the branches at this dizzy height, he needs judgment, and to be +proof against nervousness. After tender, delicate balancing, he places +his foot on a branch--at last descends cautiously along the steep slope +until he is 6 feet from the ground from which he must jump on to another +tapering branch, and follow that to another height of 20 feet, then along +the monster tree, then down to the ground; and so on for hours, the hot, +burning sun, and the close, steamy atmosphere of the clearing forcing the +perspiration in streams from his body. I have narrowly escaped death +three times during these frightful gymnastic exercises. One man died +where he fell. Several men were frightfully bruised. Yet it is not so +dangerous with the naked feet, but with boots in the early morning, +before the dew is dried, or after a rain, or when the advance-guard has +smeared the timber with a greasy clay, I have had six falls in an hour. +The village stands in the centre. We have often congratulated ourselves +on coming to a clearing at the near approach to camping-time, but it has +frequently occupied us one hour and a half to reach the village. It is a +most curious sight to see a caravan laden with heavy burdens walking over +this wreck of a forest, and timbered clearing. Streams, swamps, +watercourses, ditches are often twenty to twenty-five feet below a +tapering slippery tree, which crosses them bridge-like. Some men are +falling, some are tottering, one or two have already fallen, some are +twenty feet above the ground, others are on the ground creeping under +logs. Many are wandering among a maze of branches, thirty or more may be +standing on one delicate and straight shaft, a few may be posted like +sentries on a branch, perplexed which way to move. All this, however, is +made much harder, and more dangerous, when, from a hundred points, the +deadly arrows are flying from concealed natives, which, thank Heaven, +were not common. We have been too cautious for that kind of work to +happen often, though we have seldom been able to leave one of these awful +clearings without having some man's foot skewered, or some one lamed. + +On the 29th we marched to Bukiri or Myyulus, a distance of nine miles in +six hours. + +A few natives having been tormented and persecuted to submission to the +Manyuema, greeted us with cries of "Bodo! Bodo! Ulenda! Ulenda!"; +greetings which they accompanied with a flinging motion of the hand, as +though they jerked "Away! away!" + +The chief was styled Mwani. They wore much polished ironwork, rings, +bells, and anklets, and appeared to be partial to many leglets made of +calamus fibre, and armlets of the same material, after the manner of +Karagwé and Uhha. They cultivate maize, beans, plantains, and bananas, +tobacco, sweet potatoes, yams, brinjalls, melons, gourds. Their goats are +fine, and of good size. Fowls are plentiful, but fresh eggs are rare. + +Among some of these villages there is generally a dome hut of ample size, +after the manner of Unyoro, with double porches. + +[Illustration: GYMNASTICS IN A FOREST CLEARING.] + +The following day we halted, during which the Manyuema guides took +particular care to show our people that they should have no doubt of +their contempt for them. They would not allow them to trade with the +natives for fear some desirable article would be lost to themselves, they +also vociferated at them loudly if they were seen proceeding to the +clearing to cut plantains. As I told them, they did not advance in their +favour in the least by abandoning the whites, and turning a deaf ear to +our adjurations to be manly and faithful. A word, or even a defiant look, +was visited with a sharp cut on the naked body with a rattan from slave +boys of the six Manyuema guides with us. What awful oaths of vengeance +were uttered for all these indignities they suffered! + +On the 31st we came across the first village of Dwarfs, and, during the +day, across several empty settlements belonging to them. We marched nine +miles in five and a quarter hours, and camped in a dwarf's village in the +woods. + +Stealing continued steadily. On examining the pouches, there was one +cartridge out of three pouches. The cartridges were lost, of course! +Hilallah, a boy of sixteen, deserted back to Ipoto with my cartridge +pouch, and thirty cartridges in it. A man who carried my satchel ran away +with seventy-five Winchester cartridges. + +The next day we entered the extensive clearing and large settlement of +Mambungu's or Nebassé. + +Khamis, the chief of the guides, left Ipoto on the 31st, and arrived at +this place with seven men, according to agreement with Ismaili, my +Manyuema brother. + +The track which we followed has enabled us to increase our rate of +progress per hour. Along the river bank, by dint of continued work, and +devoting seven, eight, nine hours--sometimes ten hours--we could travel +from 3 to 7 miles. We were now enabled to make 1-1/2 to 1-3/4, and even 2 +miles per hour; but the pace was still retarded by roots, stumps, +climbers, llianes, convolvuli, skewers, and a multitude of streams, and +green-scummed sinks. We could rarely proceed a clear hundred yards +without being ordered to halt by the pioneers. + +Each day towards evening the clouds gathered, the thunder reverberated +with awful sounds through the echoing forest; lightning darted hither and +thither, daily severing some tree-top, or splitting a mighty patriarch +from crown to base, or blasting some stately and kingly tree; and the +rain fell with a drowning plenty which chilled and depressed us greatly +in our poor blooded and anæmic state. But during the march, Providence +was gracious; the sun shone, and streamed in million beams of soft light +through the woods, which brightened our feelings, and caused the aisles +and corridors of the woods to be of Divine beauty, converted the graceful +thin tree-shafts into marbly-grey pillars, and the dew and rain-drops +into sparkling brilliants; cheered the invisible birds to pour out, with +spirit, their varied repertory of songs; inspired parrot flocks to vent +gleeful screams and whistlings; roused hosts of monkeys to exert their +wildest antics; while now and then some deep, bass roar in far-away +recesses indicated a family of _soko_ or chimpanzees enjoying some savage +sport. + +The road from Mambungu's, eastward, was full of torments, fears, and +anxieties. Never were such a series of clearings as those around +Mambungu, and the neighbouring settlement of Njalis. The trees were of +the largest size, and timber enough had been cut to build a navy; and +these lay, in all imaginable confusion, tree upon tree, log above log, +branches rising in hills above hills; and amongst all this wild ruin of +woods grew in profusion upon profusion bananas, plantains, vines, +parasites; ivy-like plants, palms, calamus, convolvuli, etc., through +which the poor column had to burrow, struggle, and sweat, while creeping, +crawling, and climbing, in, through, and over obstacles and entanglements +that baffle description. + +On the 4th November we were 13-3/4 miles from Mambungu's in the +settlement of Ndugubisha, having passed, in the interval, through five +deserted forest villages of pigmies.On this day I came near smiling--for +I fancied I observed the dawn of happier days foretold by Uledi. Each +member of the caravan received one ear of corn, and 15 plantains as +rations. + +Fifteen plantains and one ear of corn make a royal ration compared to two +ears of corn, or a handful of berries, or a dozen fungus. It was not +calculated, however, to make men too cheerful, though our people were +naturally light-hearted and gay. + +"But never mind, my boys," I said, as I doled the spare diet to the +hungry creatures; "the morning is breaking; a week more, and then you +shall see the end of your troubles." + +Verbal reply was not given to me; only a wan smile lightened the +famine-sharpened features. Our officers had borne these privations with +the spirit ascribed by Cæsar to Antony, and as well as though they were +to the manner born. They fed on the flat wood beans of the forest, on the +acid wild fruit and strange fungus, with the smiling content of Sybarites +at a feast. Yet one of them paid £1,000 for this poor privilege, and came +near being thought too dainty for rough African life. They had been a +living example to our dark followers, many of whom had probably been +encouraged to strive for existence by the bright, hopeful looks our +officers wore under our many unhappy afflictions. + +On the following day we crossed the watershed between the Ihuru and Ituri +rivers, and we now plunged into cool streams flowing to leftward, or +towards the Ihuru. Hills rose to the right and left in wooded and ridgy +mounts, and after a march of nine and three-quarter miles, we halted for +the night at West Indékaru, at the base of a hill whose top rose 600 feet +above the village. Another short march brought us to a village perched +half-way up a tall mount, which may be designated as East Indékaru, and +by aneroid we were 4,097 feet above the ocean. From this village we +enjoyed a first view of our surroundings. Instead of crawling like +mighty bipeds in the twilight, 30 fathoms below the level of the white +light of the day, compelled to recognize our littleness, by comparison +with the giant columns and tall pillar-like shafts that rose by millions +around us, we now stood on the crest of a cleared mount, to look upon the +leafy world below us. One almost felt as if walking over the rolling +plain of leafage was possible, so compact and unbroken was the expanse, +extending to a lovely pale blueness as the eyesight followed it to the +furthest limits of distinctness--away, far away to an unknown distance +the forest tops spread round about a variegated green of plushy texture, +broad red patches of tree flowering, and rich russety circles of leaves, +not unfrequent. How one envied the smooth, easy flight of the kites and +white-collared eagles, sailing gracefully without let or hindrance +through the calm atmosphere! Ah! that we had the wings of kites, that we +might fly and be at rest from these incorrigibly wicked Manyuema! Whose +wish was that? Indeed, I think we all of us shared it, more or less. + +On the 7th, while we halted on the mount, the Manyuema monopolizing the +village, and our men in the bush, unworthy to be near their nobility, +there was a little storm between Saat Tato (Three o'clock), the hunter, +and Khamis, the chief of the Manyuema guides. It threatened, from the +sound of words, to explode hurtfully at one time. Khamis slapped him in +the face. Both were tall men, but Saat Tato was two inches taller, a good +soldier, who had seen service in Madagascar and with Sultan Barghash as a +sergeant, but who, from his habits of getting drunk by the third hour of +each day, was nicknamed "Three o'clock," and dismissed. He was an +excellent man, faithful, strong, obedient, and an unerring shot. Given +the benefits of twenty-five pounds of food, Saat Tato, at a hint, would +have smilingly taken hold of Khamis, and snapped his vertebrae across his +knee with the ease that he would have broken a spear staff. I observed +Saat Tato closely, for it must be remembered that it had become fully +impressed on my mind that my men were quite too broken-spirited. Saat +Tato looked at him a second severely; then, lifting his forefinger, said +to Khamis, "It is well, but I should like to see you repeat that blow a +little time hence, after I have a little food in me, and filled this +stomach of mine. Strike me again, do; I can bear it." + +Advancing, and touching Khamis on the shoulder, I said, "Khamis, do not +do that again. I do not allow even my officers to strike my men like +that." + +The ill-humour was increasing, and, little as the Manyuema imagined, they +were assisting me to restore the spirit of the Zanzibaris by their +cruelty. There were signs that the Christians would prevail after all. +The mutual affection expressed between the Moslem co-religionists at the +altar of which our men were ready to sacrifice our lives and liberties +and their own freedom, had been cooled by the cruelty, perverseness, and +niggardliness of the Manyuema. All we had to do was to watch it, bear +patiently, and be ready. + +To our great comfort Khamis confessed that West Indékaru was the utmost +limit of his master Ismaili's territory. + +We, however, were not to part from him until we reached Ibwiri. + +We marched eleven miles on the 8th of November through a much more open +forest, and we could see further into the interior. The road was better, +so much so that our rate of marching increased to two miles per hour. The +gritty and loamy soil had absorbed the rain, and walking became pleasant. +The llianes were not so riotously abundant, only a strong creeper now and +then requiring severance. At several places there were granite +outcroppings of a colossal size, which were a novelty and added a kind of +romantic and picturesque interest to the woods, darkly suggestive of +gitanos, bandits, or pigmies. + +A march of nine and a half miles on the 9th of November took us to a +Pigmies' camp. Until noon a mist had hung over the land. Towards the +latter part of the tramp we passed through several lately deserted +villages of the dwarfs, and across eight streams. Khamis, the guide, and +his followers, and about half-a-dozen of the pioneers proceeded to +Ibwiri, which was only one and a half mile distant, and on the next day +we joined them. This was one of the richest and finest clearings we had +seen since leaving Yambuya, though had the Expedition been despatched +eight months earlier, we should have found scores in the same prosperous +condition. Here was a clearing three miles in diameter abounding in +native produce, and hitherto unvisited by the Manyuema. Almost every +plantain stalk bore an enormous branch of fruit, with from fifty to one +hundred and forty plantains attached. Some specimens of this fruit were +twenty-two inches long, two and a half inches in diameter, and nearly +eight inches round, large enough to furnish Saat Tato the hunter, with +his long desired full meal. There was an odour of ripe fruit pervading +the air, and as we climbed over the logs and felt our way gingerly along +the prostrate timber, I was often asked by the delighted people to note +the bunches of mellow fruit hanging temptingly before their eyes. + +Before reaching the village Murabo, a Zanzibari headman, whispered to me +that there were five villages in Ibwiri, and that each hut in every +village was more than a fourth full of Indian corn, but that Khamis and +his Manyuema had been storing corn in their own huts, which, according to +right of preemption, they had reserved for themselves. + +On entering the street of the village, Khamis met me with the usual +complaints about the wickedness of the "vile Zanzibaris." Looking down on +the ground I saw many a trail of corn which went to corroborate Murabo's +story, and as Khamis proposed that the Expedition should occupy the +western half of the village, and he and his fifteen Manyuema would occupy +the eastern half, I ventured to demur to the proposition on the ground +that as we had departed out of his master's territory we claimed all the +land to the eastward, and would in future dispense with any suggestion as +to what we should do, and that furthermore not a grain of corn, nor +plantain, banana, or any other native product in the land would leave +the country without my permission. He was told, no people on earth could +have borne so uncomplainingly such shames, affronts, and insults as had +been put upon the Zanzibaris, and that in future they should be permitted +to resent all such injuries as they best knew how. Khamis assented +submissively to all this. + +The first thing after storing goods, and distributing the men to their +quarters, was to give fifty ears of corn per man, and to arrange with the +natives as to our future conduct towards one another. + +Within an hour it was agreed that the western half of the Ibwiri clearing +should be granted to us for foraging; that the eastern half, from a +certain stream, should be the reserve of the natives. Khamis, the +Manyuema, was also induced to enter into the pact. In return for a packet +of brass rods, Boryo, the principal chief of the Balessé of the district, +presented us with five fowls and a goat. + +This was a great day. Since August 31st not one follower of the +Expedition had enjoyed a full meal, but now bananas, plantains ripe and +green, potatoes, herbs, yams, beans, sugar-cane, corn, melons in such +quantities were given them that were they so many elephants they could +not have exhausted the stock provided for them in less than ten days. +They could gratify to the full the appetite so long stinted and starved. + +As we were compelled to wait for Mr. Jephson and some sixty +Zanzibaris--forty of the relief party, boat's crew, and convalescents +from Ipoto--the good effect of this abundance would be visible in a few +clays. It was also one of those settlements we had been anxiously +searching for as a recuperating station. On this date the men were +hideous to look upon, because of their gaunt nakedness. They were naked, +for they had stripped themselves to obtain food from the slaves of the +Manyuema at Ugarrowwa's and Ipoto; of flesh they had none, for they had +been reduced to bones by seventy-three days of famine and thirteen days +of absolute want; of strength they had but little, and they were +ill-favoured in every respect; their native colour of oiled bronze had +become a mixture of grimy black and wood ashes; their rolling eyes +betrayed signs of disease, impure blood, and indurated livers; that +beautiful contour of body, and graceful and delicate outlines of +muscles--alas, alas!--were all gone. They more befitted a charnel-house +than a camp of men bound to continually wear fighting accoutrements. + +Khamis, the Manyuema guide, offered the next morning to proceed east to +search out the road from Ibwiri, for, as he informed me, Boryo, the +chief, had told him of a grass-land being not many days off. He thought +that with a few of Boryo's natives, and thirty of our riflemen, he could +discover something of interest. Calling Boryo to me, he confirmed, as +well as we could understand him, that from a place called Mandé, which he +said was only two days' good marching--say forty miles--the grass-land +could be seen; that herds of cattle came in such numbers to the Ituri +river to drink that the river "swelled up." All this chimed with my eager +desire to know how far we were from the open country, and as Boryo said +he was willing to furnish guides, I called for volunteers. Twenty-eight +men came forward, to my surprise, as willing and as eager for new +adventures as though they had been revelling in plenty for the last few +months. Khamis and his party departed shortly after. + +Despite strict prohibition to touch anything on the native reservation of +Ibwiri, one of our raiders paid it a visit, and captured nineteen fowls, +two of which he had already despatched, the remaining seventeen he had +decapitated, but our detectives pounced upon him and his stock, as he and +his chum were debating what they should do with the feathers. The flesh +and bones did not promise to be any trouble to them. Close by them two +men had despatched an entire goat, excepting the head! These facts serve +to illustrate the boundless capacity of Zanzibari stomachs. + +The natives of Ibwiri had behaved most handsomely, and personally I felt +a sense of shame at the ingratitude of my followers. The chief and his +family were living with us, and exchanged their greetings of "Bodo, Bodo, +ulenda, ulenda," half-a-dozen times a day. Yet our men had undergone +such extremes of wretchedness during the last two and a half months that +we might have well anticipated some excesses would be committed upon the +first opportunity. No other body of men in the wide world that I am +acquainted with could have borne such a period of hunger so meekly, so +resignedly. Not a grain or a bit of human food discoverable anywhere, +their comrades dying at every camp, or falling dead along the track, +others less patient plunging into the depths of the wilderness maddened +by hunger, leaving them to fare as they might under the burdens of +war-munitions, and baggage. Goaded by the protracted hunger, and fierce +despair, and loss of trust in their officers, they might have seized +their Remingtons and, by one volley, have slain their white chiefs, and +fed on them, and shaken off power, and, in a moment, the clutch of +authority which, so far as they knew, was only dragging them down to +certain doom. + +While I pitied the natives who had lost their property when they least +deserved it, I could not remove from my memory that extended fast in the +area of desolation and forest wilderness stretching between the Basopo +Rapids and Ibwiri, on the edge of which we were even now located, or +their patient obedience--thefts and small practices notwithstanding, +their unfaltering fidelity, their kindness to us while we were starving, +in bestowing upon us the choicest and finest of the wild fruit they had +discovered, and their altogether courageous bearing and noble hopefulness +during the terrible days of adversity; all these virtues must needs +extenuate their offences, and it was best to await fulness and reflection +to assist us in reclaiming them into tractableness and good order. Every +mile or two almost of that hungry forest solitude between the Ihuru and +Ituri confluence and Ipoto had been marked by the dead bodies of their +comrades; there they lay fast mildewing and rotting in the silent gloom, +and, but for the fidelity of the survivors, none of those capable of +giving intelligent testimony of the stern trials endured during +September, October, and the half of November, would have lived to relate +the sad and sorrowful details. + +The more experience and insight I obtain into human nature, the more +convinced do I become that the greater portion of a man is purely animal. +Fully and regularly fed, he is a being capable of being coaxed or coerced +to exertion of any kind, love and fear sway him easily, he is not averse +to labour however severe; but when starved it is well to keep in mind the +motto "Cave Canem," for a starving lion over a raw morsel of beef is not +so ferocious or so ready to take offence. Rigid discipline, daily +burdens, and endless marching into regions of which they were perfectly +ignorant, never seemed to gall our men much when their stomachs were +pampered, and abundant provender for their digestive organs were +provided; but even hanging unto death was only a temporary damper to +their inclination to excessive mischief when pinched with hunger. The +aborigines also of Ibwiri surrounded by plenty are mild and meek enough +through pure sleekness, but the dwarfish nomads of the forest are, I am +told, as fierce as beasts of prey, and fight till their quivers are +empty. + +I received word on the 12th that Khamis, the Manyuema who was supposed to +have gone for my gratification to explore the country ahead, and to make +friends with the aid of the natives, had, owing to perverseness, been +unable to accomplish his mission; that he was greatly disappointed, and +that he had been attacked by the natives of East Ibwiri and had lost two +men. I sent word to him to return. + +The fleas of Ibwiri became so intolerable that in order to obtain rest, I +had to set my tent in the open street. + +On the 13th of November, while taking an inspection of the village camp, +and examining into the condition of the men, I was amazed at the busy +scene of eating I beheld. Almost every man was engaged in pounding corn, +reducing dried bananas into flour, or grinding mouthfuls of food with +their fine teeth, making amends for the compulsory fast of September, +October and November. + +Khamis returned on the 14th with a large flock of goats obtained from +somewhere. He was gracious enough to allow us sixteen head. This inclined +us to suspect that the real object of his design was not to explore but +to extend the conquests of his master, Ismaili, farther east through our +assistance, and to reduce the natives of Ibwiri into the same state of +poverty as the neighbourhood of Ipoto, for instance. But though Khamis +possessed force sufficient to have accomplished even this last, the silly +fellow's greed caused him to behave with such reckless disregard of the +poisoned shafts of the natives that he lost three of his men. It seems +that as soon as a flock of goats was sighted, Khamis forgot his design to +explore, urged his Manyuema to their capture, and retained our people by +him. Our men by these tactics returned uninjured without having been +engaged in this disgraceful action. Then, as Khamis was returning to our +village, mourning the loss of three of his most active comrades, he +suddenly met Boryo, the Chief of East Ibwiri, and without a word made him +a prisoner. Before reporting to me, Khamis, on arrival, ordered his men +to strangle the chief in revenge for the death of his men. Happening to +hear of it, I sent a guard to take him by force out of Khamis' hands, and +placed him in a hut out of harm's way, and bade Boryo rest quiet until +Khamis had departed. + +We luxuriated during our days of rest. There had been discovered such an +abundance of food that we might safely have rested six months without +fear of starving. We enjoyed ripe plantains made into puddings with +goats' milk; fritters, patties and bread, sweet potatoes, manioc, yams, +herbs, fowls and goat meat without stint. On the evening of this day the +_menu_ for dinner was-- + + Kid soup. + + Roast leg of kid, and baked sweet potatoes. + + Boiled sweet manioc. + + Fried bananas. + + Sweet cake of ripe plantain. + + Plantain fritters. + + Goats' milk. + +Already I noted a change in the appearance of ourselves and followers. +There was certainly more noise, and once or twice I heard an attempt at +singing, but as there was a well recognised flaw in the voice, it was +postponed to another day. + +At 3 P.M. of the 16th Mr. Jephson appeared, having performed his mission +of relief most brilliantly. As will be seen by Mr. Jephson's letter +descriptive of his success, he had been able to proceed to the relief of +Captain Nelson, and to return with him to Ipoto within seven days, after +a journey of about a hundred miles. Judging from Captain Nelson's letter, +he seemed to have been delivered out of his terrible position to fall +into a similar desperate strait in the midst of the plenty of Ipoto. + +The next day Khamis and his Manyuema returned homeward without taking +leave. I despatched a letter to the officers at Ipoto, sent Khamis' ivory +and a present of cloth with it to Indékaru, whence the Manyuema might be +able to obtain assistance from their own natives. I was never so +dissatisfied with myself as when I was compelled to treat these men thus +so kindly, and to allow them to depart without even the small +satisfaction of expressing my private opinion of Manyuema in general and +of the gang at Ipoto in particular. At all points I was worsted; they +compelled a generous treatment from me, and finally trapped me into the +obligation of being the carrier of their stolen ivory. + +Yet I felt grateful to them somewhat that they had not taken greater +advantage of my position. With Captain Nelson and Dr. Parke and about +thirty men in their power, they might have compelled a thousand +concessions from me, which happily they did not. I hoped that after a +season of forbearance divine justice would see fit to place me in more +independent circumstances. When the Doctor and Nelson and their sick men +were recovered and in my camp, and the 116 loads and boat left at Ipoto +been conveyed away, then, and not till then, would I be able to cast up +accounts, and demand a peremptory and final settlement. The charges were +written plainly and fairly, as a memorandum. + + Messrs. Kilonga Longa and Co., Ipoto. + + _To Mr. Stanley, officers and men of the E. P. R. Expedition,_ + _November 17th, 1887._ + + _Dr._ + To having caused the starvation to death between the } + Lenda River and Ibwiri of 67 men: because we had } + crossed that river with 271 men--and in camp with } 67 + those due here shortly there were only 175, and 28 } + inclusive of Captain Nelson and Dr. Parke--therefore } + loss of men. } + To 27 men at Ipoto too feeble to travel, many of whom + will not recover. + To spearing to death Mufta Mazinga. 1 + To flogging one man to death. 1 + To flogging Ami, a Zanzibari, 200 lashes. + To attempting to starve Captain Nelson and Dr. Parke. + To instigating robbery of two boxes of ammunition. + To receiving thirty stolen Remington rifles. + To various oppressions of Zanzibaris. + To compelling Sarboko to work as their slave. + To various insults to Captain Nelson and Dr. Parke. + To devastating 44,000 square miles of territory. + To butchery of several thousands of natives. + To enslaving several hundreds of women and children. + To theft of 200 tusks of ivory between May, 1887, and + October, 1887. + To many murders, raids, crimes, devastations past, present + and prospective. + -- + To deaths of Zanzibaris 69 + To mischiefs incalculable! + + +During the afternoon of the 17th we experienced once again the evils +attending our connection with the Manyuema. All Ibwiri and neighbouring +districts were in arms against us. The first declaration of their +hostilities took place when a man named Simba proceeded to the stream +close to the camp to draw water, and received an arrow in the abdomen. +Realizing from our anxious faces the fatal nature of the wound, he cried +out his "Buryani brothers!" and soon after, being taken into his hut, +loaded a Remington rifle near him, and made a ghastly wreck of features +that were once jovial, and not uncomely. + +The reflections of the Zanzibaris on the suicide were curious, and best +expressed by Sali, the tent boy. + +"Think of it, Simba! a poor devil owning nothing in the world, without +anything or anybody dear to him, neither name, place, property, or +honour, to commit suicide! Were he a rich Arab now, a merchant Hindu, a +captain of soldiers, a governor of a district, or a white man who had +suffered misfortune, or had been the victim of dishonour or shame, yea, I +could understand the spirit of the suicide; but this Simba, who was no +better than a slave, an outcast of Unyanyembé, without friends on the +face of the earth, save the few poor things in his own mess in this camp, +to go and kill himself like a man of wealth! Faugh! pitch him into the +wilderness, and let him rot! What right has he to the honour of a shroud +and a burial?" This was the sentiment of the men who were once his +comrades--though not so forcibly expressed as was done by little Sali in +his fierce indignation at the man's presumption. + +Early on this morning Lieutenant Stairs and thirty-six rifles were +despatched to make a reconnaissance eastward under the guidance of Boryo, +and a young Manyuema volunteer, as we had yet a few days to wait for the +arrival of several convalescents who, wearied of the cruelties practised +at Ipoto on them, preferred death on the road to the horrible servitude +of the Manyuema slaves. + +On the 19th Uledi, the coxswain of the _Advance_ with his boat's crew, +arrived, reporting that there were fifteen convalescents on the way. By +night they were in the camp. + +On the 21st the reconnoitering party under Lieutenant Stairs returned, +Boryo still accompanying them; nothing new about the grass land had been +obtained, but they reported a tolerably good path leading steadily +eastward, which was as comforting news as we could expect. + +On the 23rd, the last day of our stay at Ibwiri, there was a muster and +reorganization:-- + + No. 1 company, Jephson 80 men. + + No. 2 " Stairs 76 " + + Soudanese 5 " + + Cooks 3 " + + Boys 6 " + + Europeans 4 " + + Manyuema guide 1 " + --- + 175 " + === + + +Inclusive of Captain Nelson and Dr. Parke there were twenty-eight at +Ipoto; we had left to recuperate at Ugarrowwa's fifty-six. Some from +Nelson's starvation camp under Umari, the headman, probably ten, might +return; so that we reckoned the number of the advance column to be 268 +still living out of 389 men who had departed from Yambuya 139 days +previously, and put down our loss at 111. We were greatly mistaken, +however, for by this date many of the sick at Ugarrowwa's had died, and +the condition of the sick at Ipoto was deplorable. + +Since our arrival at Ibwiri the majority of our followers had gained +weight of body at the rate of a pound per day. Some were positively huge +in girth; their eyes had become lustrous, and their skins glossy like +oiled bronze. For the last three nights they had ventured upon songs; +they hummed their tunes as they pounded their corn; they sang as they +gazed at the moon at night after their evening meal. Frequently a hearty +laugh had been heard. In the afternoon of this day a sparring match took +place between two young fellows, and a good deal of severe thumping was +exchanged; they were always "spinning yarns" to interested listeners. +Life had come back by leaps and bounds. Brooding over skeletons and +death, and musing on distant friends in their far-away island, had been +abandoned for hopeful chat over the future, about the not far distant +grass land with its rolling savannahs, and green champaigns, abounding in +fat cattle; and they dwelt unctuously on full udders and massive humps, +and heavy tails of sheep, and granaries of millet and sesame, pots of +zogga, pombe, or some other delectable stimulant, and the Lake Haven, +where the white man's steamers were at anchor, appeared distinctly in +their visions. + +They all now desired the march, for the halt had been quite sufficient. +There were twenty perhaps to whom another fortnight's rest was necessary, +but they all appeared to me to have begun recovery, and, provided food +was abundant, their marching without loads would not be hurtful. + +At dawn of the bright and sunny day, 24th of November, the Soudanese +trumpeter blew the signal with such cheery strains that found a ready +response from every man. The men shouted their "Ready, aye ready, +Master!" in a manner that more reminded me of former expeditions, than of +any day we had known on this. There was no need of the officers becoming +exasperated at delays of laggards and the unwilling; there was not a +malingerer in the camp. Every face was lit up with hopefulness. A +prospective abundance of good cheer invited them on. For two days ahead, +the path was known by those of the reconnaissance, and the members of the +party had, like Caleb and Joshua, expatiated upon the immense and pendent +clusters of plantains effusing delicious odours of ripeness, and upon the +garden plots of potatoes, and waving fields of maize, &c. Therefore, for +once, we were relieved from the anxiety as to who should take this load, +or that box; there was no searching about for the carriers, no +expostulations nor threats, but the men literally leaped to the goods +pile, fought for the loads, and laughed with joy; and the officers faces +wore grateful smiles, and expressed perfect contentment with events. + +We filed out of the village, a column of the happiest fellows alive. The +accursed Manyuema were behind us, and in our front rose in our +imaginations vivid pictures of pastoral lands, and a great lake on whose +shores we were to be greeted by a grateful Pasha, and a no less grateful +army of men. + +In forty-five minutes we arrived at Boryo's village (the chief had been +released the day before), a long, orderly arrangement of a street 33 feet +wide, flanked by four low blocks of buildings 400 yards in length. +According to the doors we judged that fifty-two families had formed +Boryo's particular community. The chief's house was recognized by an +immense slab of wood four feet wide and six feet long, and two inches +thick; its doorway being cut out of this in a diamond figure. + +The height of the broad eaves was 10 feet above the ground, and the +houses were 10 feet in width. The eaves projected 30 inches in front, +and 2 feet over the back walls. Outside of the village extended, over +level and high ground, the fields, gardens, and plantations, banked all +round by the untouched forest, which looked dark, ominous, and unwelcome. +Altogether Boryo's village was the neatest and most comfortable we had +seen throughout the valley of the Aruwimi. One hundred yards from the +western end ran a perennial and clear stream, which abounded with fish of +the silurus kind. + +After a short halt we resumed the journey, and entered the forest. Four +miles beyond Boryo's we passed over a swamp, which was very favourable to +fine growths of the Raphia palm, and soon after lunched. In the afternoon +I undertook, as an experiment, to count my paces for an hour, and to +measure a space of 200 yards, to find the number of inches to a pace, and +found that the average rate in a fair track through the forest was 4800 +paces of 26 inches long = 3470 yards per hour. At 3 o'clock we camped in +an extensive pigmies' village. The site commanded four several roads, +leading to villages. There is no doubt it was a favourite spot, for the +village common was well tamped and adapted for sport, gossip, and +meetings. The bush around the camp was quite undisturbed. + +On the 25th, after 8-1/4 miles march, we reached Indémwani. Our track led +along the water-parting between the Ituri and Ihuru rivers. The village +was of oval shape, similar in architecture to Boryo's. A wealth of +plantains surrounded it, and Indian corn, tobacco, beans, and tomatoes +were plentiful. In passing through the clearing, over a fearful confusion +of logs, one of our men toppled over, and fell and broke his neck. + +From Indémwani we moved on the 26th to West Indenduru, through a most +humid land. Streams were crossed at every mile; moss, wet and dripping, +clothed stems from base to top. Even shrubs and vines were covered with +it. + +A peculiarity of this day's march was a broad highway, cut and cleared +for 3 miles through the undergrowth, which was terminated by a large +village of the pigmies, but recently vacated. There were ninety-two +huts, which we may take to represent ninety-two families, or thereabouts. +There was one hut more pretentious than the others, which possibly was +the chief's house. We had seen now about twenty villages of the forest +pigmies, but as yet we had only viewed the pretty little woman at +Ugarrowwa--the miniature Hebé. + +Lieutenant Stairs, during his reconnaissance from Ibwiri, had reached +West Indenduru, and had left the village standing; but because he had +occupied it, the natives had set fire to it after his departure. We +observed also that the Balessé seldom ate of the produce of a field +twice, and that a plantain grove, after bearing fruit once, is abandoned +for another; and a corn plot, after being tilled, sown, and harvested, is +left to revert to wilderness. They appear to be continually planting +bananas and preparing ground for corn, which accounted for the immense +clearings we had passed, and for the thousands of trees that littered the +ground in one great ruin. For the bananas or plantains, they simply cut +down the underwood and plant the young bulbs in a shallow hole, with +sufficient earth to keep it upright. They then cut the forest down, and +let the trees lie where they fall. In six months the Musa bulbs have +thriven wonderfully under shade and among roots and débris, and grown to +8 feet in height; within a year they have borne fruit. The Indian corn or +maize requires sunshine. The trees are cut down well above the buttress, +by building scaffolds 10, 15, or even 20 feet high. The logs are cut up, +and either split for slabs or lining for the inner and outer walls of +their huts, or scooped out for troughs for the manufacture of plantain +wine. The branches are piled around the plot to rot; they do not burn +them, because that would impoverish the soil, and as the surface is rich +in humus, it would burn down to the clay. + +Considering what great labour is involved in the clearing of a portion of +primeval forest, we were tempted to regard the Balessé as very foolish in +burning their villages for such a trivial cause as one night's occupation +of them by strangers; but it is an instance of the obstinate sullenness +of these people. Boryo's village, for instance, could scarcely be +constructed under a twelvemonth. The population of the largest village we +saw could not exceed 600 souls; but while we wonder at their prejudices, +we must award credit to them for great industry and unlimited patience to +produce such splendid results as we observed. + +East Indenduru was also an exceedingly well-built village, and extremely +clean, though the houses within swarmed with vermin. The street, however, +was too narrow for the height of the buildings, and a fire occurring in +the night might easily have consumed half the inhabitants. For the huts +were higher than at Boryo's, and as the buildings were a few hundred +yards in length, and had only one principal exit at the eastern end, the +danger of a fire was such that we did not occupy it without having taken +many precautions to avoid a possible disaster in what appeared to be a +perfect trap. + +Field-beans, of a dark variety, were gathered by the bushel, and our men +revelled in the juice of the sugar-cane. + +We were now in S. Lat. 1° 22-1/2' and south of the watershed, all streams +flowing towards the Ituri. + +On the 28th we halted in East Indenduru, and sent three separate +reconnoitering parties to obtain a knowledge of the general direction of +the routes leading out of the settlement. We had tested the task of +forming our own track through the forest long enough, and having +discovered one which had been of such service to us, we were loth to +revert to the tedious labour of travelling through jungles and +undergrowth again. + +Jephson's party proceeded S.S.E., and finally S., and at noon turned back +to report. This road would not do for us. Rashid's party took one leading +E.N.E., and finally north, through two small villages, one path returning +southerly, another going north-easterly. Continuing his explorations +along the latter, he came to a native camp. There was a slight skirmish; +the natives fled, and he obtained a prize of nine fat goats, only five of +which they brought to camp. This road would not suit us either. + +A third search party was led by a famous scout, who discovered one path +heading easterly. We resolved to adopt this. + +On the 29th we left Indenduru and journeyed to Indepessu by noon, and in +the afternoon sheered by a northerly path to the settlement of the +Baburu, having accomplished a distance of ten miles in five hours, which +was exceedingly fair walking. + +On the next morning, after a march of an hour and a half along a +tolerably good path, we emerged in front of an extensive clearing of +about 240 acres. The trees were but recently cut. This marked the advent +of a powerful tribe, or a late removal to new ground of old settlers of +some numerical force, resolved upon securing many creature comforts. A +captive woman of the Waburu led the way through the middle of this wide +abattis, the very sight of which was appalling. An hour later we had +crossed this, not without bruised shins and much trembling, and the path +then led up an easy ascent up a prolonged span of a hill. The hollows on +either side of it showed prodigious groves of plantains and many gardens, +ill-kept, devoted to herbs and gourds. Within thirty minutes from the +summit of the ascent we had reached an altitude that promised to give us +shortly a more extended view than any we had been lately accustomed to, +and we pressed gladly upwards, and soon entered a series of villages that +followed the slope. A village of these parts always gave us a highway +well trodden, from forty to sixty feet wide; in a series of this type of +villages we should soon be able to pace a mile. We had passed through +several fine separate long blocks of low structures, when the foremost of +the advance guard was seen running swiftly down to meet me. He asked me +to look towards the sunrise, and, turning my eyes in that direction, they +were met by the gratifying sight of a fairly varied scene of pasture-land +and forest, of level champaigns and grassy slopes of valleys and hills, +rocky knolls and softly rounded eminences, a veritable "land of hills and +valleys, that drinketh the rain of heaven." That the open country was +well watered was indicated by the many irregular lines of woods which +marked the courses of the streams, and by the clumps of trees, whose +crowns just rose above their sloping banks. + +The great forest in which we had been so long buried, and whose limits +were in view, appeared to continue intact and unbroken to the N.E., but +to the E. of it was an altogether different region of grassy meads and +plains and hills, freely sprinkled with groves, clusters, and thin lines +of trees up to certain ranges of hills that bounded the vision, and at +whose base I knew must be the goal whither we had for months desired to +reach. + +[Illustration: VIEW OF MOUNT PISGAH FROM THE EASTWARD.] + +This, then, was the long promised view and the long expected exit out of +gloom! Therefore I called the tall peak terminating the forested ridge, +of which the spur whereon we stood was a part, and that rose two miles E. +of us to a height of 4600 feet above the sea, Pisgah,--Mount +Pisgah,--because, after 156 days of twilight in the primeval forest, we +had first viewed the desired pasturelands of Equatoria. + +The men crowded up the slope eagerly with inquiring open-eyed looks, +which, before they worded their thoughts, we knew meant "Is it true? Is +it no hoax? Can it be possible that we are near the end of this forest +hell?" They were convinced themselves in a few moments after they had +dropped their burdens, and regarded the view with wondering and delighted +surprise. + +"Aye, friends, it is true. By the mercy of God we are well nigh the end +of our prison and dungeon!" They held their hands far out yearningly +towards the superb land, and each looked up to the bright blue heaven in +grateful worship, and after they had gazed as though fascinated, they +recovered themselves with a deep sigh, and as they turned their heads, +lo! the sable forest heaved away to the infinity of the west, and they +shook their clenched hands at it with gestures of defiance and hate. +Feverish from sudden exaltation, they apostrophised it for its cruelty to +themselves and their kinsmen; they compared it to Hell, they accused it +of the murder of one hundred of their comrades, they called it the +wilderness of fungi and wood-beans; but the great forest which lay vast +as a continent before them, and drowsy, like a great beast, with +monstrous fur thinly veiled by vaporous exhalations, answered not a word, +but rested in its infinite sullenness, remorseless and implacable as +ever. + +From S.E. to S. extended a range of mountains between 6,000 and 7,000 +feet above the sea. One woman captive indicated S.E. as our future +direction to the great water that "rolled incessantly on the shore with a +booming noise, lifting and driving the sand before it," but as we were in +S. Lat. 1°. 22', on the same parallel as Kavalli, our objective point, I +preferred aiming east, straight towards it. + +Old Boryo, chief of Ibwiri, had drawn with his hand a semicircle from +S.E. to N.W. as the course of the Ituri River, and said that the river +rose from a plain at the foot of a great hill, or a range of hills. To +the S.E. of Pisgah we could see no plain, but a deep wooded valley, and +unless our eyes deceived us, the forest seemed to ascend up the slopes of +the range as far as its summits. Five months of travel in one continuous +forest was surely experience enough; a change would therefore be +agreeable, even if we varied but our hardships. This was another reason +why I proposed to decline all advice upon the proper path leading to the +"great water." + +In the village of the Bakwuru, in which we now prepared to encamp, we +found sleeveless vests of thick buffalo hide, which our men secured, as +fitting armour against the arrows of the tribes of the grass land. + +[Illustration: VILLAGES OF THE BAKWURU ON A SPUR OF PISGAH.] + +On the 1st of December we retraced our steps down the spur, and then +struck along a track running easterly. In a short time we ascended +another spur leading up to a terrace below Pisgah peak, where we obtained +the highest reading of the aneroid that we had yet reached. We then +followed a path leading from the terrace down another spur to the average +level. A number of well-defined and trodden roads were crossed, but our +path seemed to increase in importance until, at 11.15 A.M., we entered +the large village of Iyugu, which, of course, was quite deserted, so +quickly do the natives of the forest seem to be apprised of new arrivals. +The street of this village was forty feet wide. + +We observed a considerable dryness in the woods between Pisgah base and +Iyugu, which was a great change from that excessive humidity felt and +seen between Indenduru and Ibwiri. The fallen forest leaves had a +slightly crispy look about them and crackled under our feet, and the +track, though still in primeval shade, had somewhat of the dusty +appearance of a village street. + +[Illustration: A VILLAGE AT THE BASE OF PISGAH.] + +Alter the noon halt we made a two hours' march to a small village +consisting of three conical huts, near which we camped. Though we had +travelled over ten miles we might have been hundreds of miles yet from +the open country for all we could gather from our surroundings. For they +were, as usual, of tall dense woods, of true tropic character, dark, +sombrous and high, bound one to the other with creepers and vines, and a +thick undergrowth throve under the shades. We, however, picked up a +strange arrow in one of the huts, which differed greatly from any we had +as yet seen. It was twenty-eight inches in length, and its point was +spear-shaped,and three inches long. Its shaft was a light reed cane, +beautifully and finely notched for decoration, a thin triangular-shaped +piece of kid leather directed the arrow, instead of a leaf or a piece of +black cloth as hitherto. A quiver full of forest-tribe arrows was also +found, and they were twenty inches long, and each arrowhead differed from +the other, though each was murderously sharp and barbed. + +[Illustration: CHIEF OF THE IYUGU.] + +On the 2nd of December, soon after leaving the camp, we lost the native +road, and had to pick our way amongst a perplexing number of buffalo and +elephant tracks. A stupid fellow, who had been out wandering, had +informed us that he had reached the plain the night before, and that he +could easily guide us to it. Trusting in him, we soon lost all signs of a +track, and began a crooked and erratic course through the woods, as in +times past. After nearly three hours' travelling N. by E. we stumbled +upon a village, whose conical roofs were thatched with grass. This was a +grand discovery, and was hailed with cheers. One fellow literally rushed +to the grass and kissed it lovingly. Already there were two +characteristics of pasture-land before us, the cone hut and the grass +thatch. We halted for a noon rest, and a few young men took advantage of +it to explore, and before the halting-time was expired brought to us a +bunch of green grass, which was hailed with devout raptures, as Noah and +his family may have hailed the kindly dove with the olive branch. +However, they reported that the way they had followed led to a swamp, and +swamps being a horror to a laden caravan, our afternoon march was made in +a S.S.E. direction, which in ninety minutes brought us to Indésura, +another village, or rather a district, consisting of several small +settlements of cone huts thatched with grass. Here we halted. + +Having occasion to repair a roof a man mounted to the top of a house, and +looking round languidly was presently seen to lift his hand to his eyes +and gaze earnestly. He then roared out loud enough for the entire village +to hear, "I see the grass-land. Oh, but we are close to it!" + +"Nay," said one in reply, mockingly, "don't you also see the lake, and +the steamer, and that Pasha whom we seek?" + +Most of us were, however, stirred by the news, and three men climbed up +to the roofs with the activity of wild cats, others climbed to the tops +of trees, while a daring young fellow climbed one which would have tasked +a monkey almost, and a chorus of exclamations rose, "Aye, verily, it is +the truth of God, the open land is close to us, and we knew it not! Why, +it is merely an arrow's flight distant! Ah, when we reach it, farewell to +darkness and blindness." + +As a man went to draw water from the stream, close by, an ancient crone +stepped out of the bush, and the man dropped his water-pot and seized +her. She being vigorous and obstinate, like most of her sex just previous +to dotage, made a vigorous defence for her liberty. A Countess of +Salisbury could not have been more resolute, but the man possessed +superior strength and craft and hauled her into camp. By dint of smiles +and coaxing and obsequiously filling a long pipe for her, we learned that +we were in Indésura, that the people were called Wanya-Sura, that the +villagers quenched their thirst with the waters of the Ituri. "The +Ituri?" "Ay, the Ituri; this stream close by;" that many days east of us +was a great broad river, ever so much broader than the Ituri, with canoes +as wide as a house (ten feet) which would carry six people (_sic_); that +a few days north there was a mighty tribe called the Banzanza, and east +of them another people called the Bakandi, and both of these tribes +possessed numerous herds of cattle, and were very valorous and warlike, +and who were rich in cattle, cowries, and brass wire. + +[Illustration: IYUGU; A CALL TO ARMS.] + +Our ancient captive, who was somewhat peculiar for her taste in personal +decoration by having a wooden disk of the size of an ulster button +intruded into the centre of her upper lip, was now seized with another +fit of obstinacy and scowled malignantly at all of us except at a bashful +smooth-faced youth upon whom she apparently doted, but the foolish youth +ascribed the ugliness of agedness to witchcraft, and fled from her. + +Indésura--and, as we discovered later, all the villages situated on the +edge of the forest--was remarkable for the variety and excellent quality +of its products. Mostly all the huts contained large baskets of superior +tobacco weighing from twenty to fifty pounds each, such quantities, +indeed, that every smoker in the camp obtained from five to ten pounds. +The crone called it "Taba;" in Ibwiri it was called Tabo. Owing to the +imperfect drying it is not fragrant, but it is extremely smokable. Fifty +pipefuls a day of it would not produce so much effect on the nerves as +one of the article known as Cavendish. But here and there among the +leaves there were a few of rich brown colour, slightly spotted with nitre +which produced a different effect. Two of our officers experimented on a +pipeful of this, which they deemed to be superior, and were inconceivably +wretched in consequence. When, however, these leaves are picked out, the +tobacco is mild and innocuous, as may be judged by the half-pint +pipe-bowls peculiar to this region. In every district near the grass-land +the plant is abundantly cultivated, for the purpose of commerce with the +herdsmen of the plains in exchange for meat. + +The castor-oil plant was also extensively cultivated. Requiring a supply +of castor-oil as medicine, the beans were roasted, and then pounded in a +wooden mortar, and we expressed a fair quantity, which proved very +effective. We also required a supply for rifles, and their mechanisms, +and the men prepared a supply for anointing their bodies--an operation +which made them appear fresh, clean, and vigorous. + +[Illustration: PIPES.] + +Having discovered that four of our scouts were strangely absent, I +despatched Rashid bin Omar and twenty men in search of them. They were +discovered and brought to us next morning, and to my surprise the four +absentees, led by the incorrigible Juma Waziri, were driving a flock +of twenty fine goats, which the chief scout had captured by a ruse. I +had often been tempted to sacrifice Juma for the benefit of others, +but the rogue always appeared with such an inoffensive, and +crave-your-humble-pardon kind of face, which could not be resisted. He +was of a handsome Abyssinian type, but the hypocrisy on his features +marred their natural beauty. A Mhuma, Masai, Mtaturu, or Galla must +have meat, even more so than the Englishman. It is an article of faith +with him, that life is not worth living without an occasional taste of +beef. I therefore warned Juma again, and consoled myself with the +reflection, that his career as a scout could only be for a brief +time, and that he would surely meet natives of craft and courage equal +to his own some day. + +We had made an ineffectual start on this day, had actually left the +village a few hundred yards when we were stopped by the depth of a river +forty yards wide and with a current of two and a half miles an hour. The +old crone called this the Ituri. Marvelling that between Ipoto and Ibwiri +a river 400 yards wide could be narrowed to such a narrow stream, we had +returned to Indésura for a day's halt, and I had immediately after sent +Lieutenant Stairs and Mr. Jephson with sufficient escort back along +yesterday's path to find a ford across the Ituri. + +At 4 P.M. both officers returned to report a successful discovery of a +ford a mile and a half higher up the stream, and that they had set foot +upon the grass-land, in proof of which they held a bunch of fine young +succulent grass. Meantime, Uledi and his party had also found another +ford waist deep, still nearer Indésura. + +On the evening of this day a happier community of men did not exist on +the face of the round earth than those who rejoiced in the camp of +Indésura. On the morrow they were to bid farewell to the forest. The +green grassy region of which we had dreamed in our dark hours, when +slumbering heavily from exhaustion of body and prostration from hunger +during the days of starvation, was close at hand. Their pots contained +generous supplies of juicy meat; in the messes were roast and boiled +fowls, corn mush, plantain flour porridge, and ripe bananas. No wonder +they were now exuberantly happy, and all except ten or twelve men were in +finer condition than when they had embarked so hopefully for the journey +in the port of Zanzibar. + +On the 4th of December we filed out of Indésura and proceeded to the +ford. It was waist deep, and at this place fifty yards wide. Two of the +aneroids indicated an altitude of 3050 feet above the ocean--1850 feet +higher than the level of the river at the landing-place of Yambuya, and +2000 feet higher than the Congo at Stanley Pool. + +From the Ituri we entered a narrow belt of tall timber on its left bank, +and, after waiting for the column to cross, marched on, led by Mr. +Mounteney Jephson along a broad elephant track for about 600 yards, and +then, to our undisguised joy, emerged upon a rolling plain, green as an +English lawn, into broadest, sweetest daylight, and warm and glorious +sunshine, to inhale the pure air with an uncontrollable rapture. Judging +of the feelings of others by my own, we felt as if we had thrown all age +and a score of years away, as we stepped with invigorated limbs upon the +soft sward of young grass. We strode forward at a pace most unusual, and +finally, unable to suppress our emotions, the whole caravan broke into a +run. Every man's heart seemed enlarged and lifted up with boyish +gladness. The blue heaven above us never seemed so spacious, lofty, pure, +and serene as at this moment. We gazed at the sun itself undaunted by its +glowing brightness. The young grass, only a month since the burning of +the old, was caressed by a bland, soft breeze, and turned itself about as +if to show us its lovely shades of tender green. Birds, so long estranged +from us, sailed and soared through the lucent atmosphere; antelopes and +elands stood on a grassy eminence gazing and wondering, and then bounded +upward and halted snorting their surprise, to which our own was equal; +buffaloes lifted their heads in amazement at the intruders on their +silent domain, heaved their bulky forms, and trooped away to a safer +distance. A hundred square miles of glorious country opened to our +view--apparently deserted--for we had not as yet been able to search out +the fine details of it. Leagues upon leagues of bright green pasture land +undulated in gentle waves, intersected by narrow winding lines of +umbrageous trees that filled the hollows, scores of gentle hills studded +with dark clumps of thicket, graced here and there by a stately tree, +lorded it over level breadths of pasture and softly sloping champaigns; +and far away to the east rose some frowning ranges of mountains beyond +which we were certain slept in its deep gulf the blue Albert. Until +breathlessness forced a halt, the caravan had sped on the +double-quick--for this was also a pleasure that had been long deferred. + +[Illustration: EMERGING FROM THE FOREST.] + +Then we halted on the crest of a commanding hill to drink the beauty of a +scene to which we knew no rival, which had been the subject of our +thoughts and dreams for months, and now we were made "glad according to +the days wherein we had been afflicted and the period wherein we had seen +evil." Every face gloated over the beauty of the landscape and reflected +the secret pleasure of the heart. The men were radiant with the +fulfilment of dear desires. Distrust and sullenness were now utterly +banished. We were like men out of durance and the dungeon free and +unfettered, having exchanged foulness and damp for sweetness and purity, +darkness and gloom for divine light and wholesome air. Our eyes followed +the obscure track, roved over the pasture hillocks, great and small, +every bosky islet and swarded level around it, along the irregularities +of the forest line that rose darkly funereal behind us, advancing here, +receding there, yonder assuming a bay-like canoe, here a cape-like point. +The mind grasped the minutest peculiarity around as quick as vision, to +cling to it for many, many years. A score of years hence, if we live so +long, let but allusion be made to this happy hour when every soul +trembled with joy, and praise rose spontaneously on every lip, and we +shall be able to map the whole with precision and fidelity. + +After examining the contour of the new region before us with the +practical view of laying a course free from river or swamp, I led the +Expedition N.N.E. to a rocky knoll which was about four miles from us, in +order to strike the southern base of a certain hilly range that ran E. by +S. from the knoll. I imagined we should then be able to travel over +upland, trending easterly, without much inconvenience. + +We reached the base of the rock-heap that stood about 300 feet above the +valley to our right, then perceiving that the obscure game track we had +followed had developed into a native highway running N.E., we struck +across the grassy upland to retain our hold upon the crown we had gained, +the short young grass enabling us to do so without fatigue. But near noon +the tall unburnt grass of last season interrupted our too-easy advance +with its tangle of robust stalks of close growth; but we bore on until +12.30, and after an hour of serious exercise halted by the side of a +crystal stream for refreshments. + +In the afternoon we breasted the opposing grassy slope, and, after an +hour and a half of rapid pacing, selected a camp near the junction of two +streams, which flowed south-easterly. Relieved from their burdens, a few +tireless fellows set out to forage in some villages we had observed far +below our line of march in the valley. The suddenness of their descent +among the natives provided them with a rich store of fowls, sugar-cane, +and ripe branches of bananas. They brought us specimens of the weapons of +this new land: several long bows and lengthy arrows; shields of a heavy +rectangular form, formed of a double row of tough rods crossed, and +tightly bound together with fibre and smeared with some gummy substance. +They presented very neat workmanship, and were altogether impenetrable to +arrows or spears. Besides shields the natives wore vests of buffalo hide, +which appeared to be quite impervious to pistol shots. + +Our course as far as the rocky knoll already described was nearly +parallel with the edge of the forest, our path varying in distance from +it from a half mile to a mile and a half. As a sea or a lake indents its +shore, so appeared the view of the line of forest. + +The trend of the Ituri that we had crossed, which we must call West +Ituri, was E.S.E.. I should have estimated the source of the river to +have been distant from the crossing about 25 geographical miles N.N.W. + +On the next day we advanced up a long slope of short grass land, and on +the crest halted to arrange the column with more order, lest we might be +suddenly confronted by an overwhelming force, for we were as yet ignorant +of the land, its people, and the habits of those among whom we had +dropped so suddenly. Marching forward we chose a slight track that +followed the crest leading E. by S., but soon all traces of it were lost. +However, we were on a commanding upland, and a score of miles were +visible to us in any direction out of which we might select any course. A +village was in view N.E. of us, and to it we directed our steps, that we +might avail ourselves of a path, for the closely-packed acreages of reedy +cane and fifteen-feet-high grass, that we stumbled upon occasionally, +were as bad as the undergrowth of the jungle. The very tallest and +rankest grass impeded us, and prevented rapid advance. We crossed jungly +gullies, on whose muddy ground were impressed the feet of lions and +leopards, and finally entered a tract of acacia thorn, which was a sore +annoyance, and out of this last we emerged into the millet fields of +Mbiri. In a few seconds the natives were warned of our approach, and fled +instinctively, and, Parthian-like, shot their long arrows. The scouts +dashed across every obstacle, and seized a young woman and a lad of +twelve, who were the means of instructing our poor ignorance. No long +conversation could be maintained with them, owing to our very imperfect +knowledge of any dialect spoken near this region, but a few names of +nouns assisted by gestures brought out the fact that we were in the +district of Mbiri, that the main road easterly would take us to the +Babusessé country, that beyond them lay the Abunguma, all of which +naturally we heard with supreme indifference. What did such names convey +to dull senses and blank minds? They had never heard of Shakespeare, +Milton, or even of Her Majesty the Queen. + +"Had any of them heard of Muta, or Luta Nzige?" + +A shake of the head. + +"Of Unyoro?" + +"Unyoro? Yes. Unyoro lies a great way off," pointing east. + +"Of a great water near Unyoro?" + +"The Ituri, you mean?" + +"No, wider; ever so much wider than the Ituri--as wide as all this +plain." + +But instead of confining themselves to monosyllables, which we might +easily have understood, the wretched woman and boy, anxious to convey too +much information, smothered comprehension by voluble talk in their +dialect, and so perplexed us that we had recourse to silence and +patience. They would show us the way to Babusessé at least. + +The mode of hut construction is similar to that seen all over East and +Central Africa. It is the most popular. A cone roof occupies two-thirds +of the height; one-third is devoted to the height of the walls. Huts of +this pattern, scattered amongst the banana groves, are found every few +dozen yards. Paths lead from one to the other, and are most baffling to +the stranger, who without a local guide must necessarily go astray. To +every group of huts there are attached outhouses for cooking sheds, for +gossip, to store fuel, and doing chores; also circular grass-walled and +thatched little granaries raised a foot or so above the ground as +protection against vermin and damp. + +Our people obtained a large quantity of ripe plantains and ripe bananas, +out of which the aborigines manufacture an intoxicating wine called +_marwa_. A few goats were also added to our flock, and about a dozen +fowls were taken. All else were left untouched according to custom, and +we resumed our journey. + +The path was well trodden. Traffic and travel had tamped it hard and +smooth. It led S.E. by E. up and down grassy hills and vales. Near noon +we halted for refreshments, shaded by fine woods, and close by boomed a +loud cataract of the Ituri, we were told. This was rather puzzling. We +could not understand how the Ituri, which we had forded the day before, +could be roaring over precipices and terraces at this high altitude, and +after we had purposely struck away from its valley to avoid it. + +A march of an hour and a half in the afternoon, apparently not very far +from the river, brought us to the populous district of the Babusessé. The +banana plantations were very extensive, reminding me of Uganda, and +their deep shades covered a multitude of huts. Fields of millet and +sesame, plots of sweet potatoes, occupied the outskirts of these +plantations, and there was ample evidence round about that the land was +thickly peopled and industriously cultivated. + +Before entering the banana shades we repaired our ranks, and marched in +more compact order. A strong body of men armed with Winchesters formed +the advance guard; a similar number of men armed with Remingtons, under +the command of Stairs, closed the rear of the column. But however well +cautioned the men were against breaking rank, no sooner had the advance +guard passed safely through a dangerous locality than the main body +invariably despatched scores of looters into huts and granaries to hunt +up booty and fowls, bananas, goats, sugar-cane, and trivial articles of +no earthly use. These plantations hid a large number of natives, who +permitted the advance to pass because their files were unbroken, and +their eyes on the watch, but those straggling looters soon gave the +aborigines the opportunity. Some arrows flew well aimed; one pinned a +man's arm to his side, another glancing from a rib admonished its owner +of his folly. A volley from rifles drove the men away from their covert +without harm to any of them. + +[Illustration: SHIELDS OF BABUSESSÉ.] + +At the easternmost settlement we camped. There were only two large +conical huts and other outhouses in it, and around these the huts for the +night were arranged hastily, put up with banana leaves sufficient to shed +rain and dew. + +At dusk I called the captives to me again, and attempted, during half an +hour, to gain a lucid answer to the question as to whether there was a +great body of water or great river east of us. When one of the headmen +who were assisting us demanded to know which was the largest Nyanza, that +of Unyoro, or that of Uganda-- + +"Nyanza!" cried the native boy--"Nyanza? Ay, the Nyanza lies this way" +(pointing east) "and extends that way" (north-east) "a long distance;" +and when asked how many "sleeps" intervened between the Babusessé, held +up three fingers on his dexter hand, and answered "three." + +It was now dark, and we were suddenly startled by a shriek of pain, and a +sequent yell singularly weird, and with a note of triumph in it, and in +the silence that followed we heard the hurtling of arrows through the +banana leaves above our heads. + +"Put out the fires! Keep cool. Where are the sentries? Why are they not +at their posts?" were the next words uttered. + +The natives had stolen on us at the very hour when the camp was least +watched, for it was supper-time, and the guards, except on unusual +occasions, were permitted to feed before going out on guard duty for the +night. We soon ascertained that one arrow had penetrated the thigh of a +man named Salim to the depth of four inches, another had pierced the +roast leg of a kid before the fire, several others had perforated banana +stalks. Salim, after a little coaxing, bravely drew out the shaft until +the barbed point was seen, when, with a wrench, I extracted it with a +pair of pincers. Eucalyptine was then applied to the wound, and the man +was sent to his quarters. + +Half an hour later, all the guards being now on duty, however, the +natives essayed another quarter of the camp, but the rifle-shots rang out +quickly in reply, and there was a scamper and a rustle heard. In the +distance we heard two rifles fired, and an agonised cry, by which we knew +that there were some of our incorrigible looters abroad. + +Our force was weak enough, in all conscience, not in numbers, but in real +strength, for defence and capacity for bearing ammunition, and these +wanderers were always a source of great anxiety to me. It was useless to +reason and expostulate; only downright severity restrained them, and as +yet, so fresh were we from the horrors of the forest, that I had not the +moral courage to apply the screw of discipline; but when I assumed +mildness, their own heedless imprudence incurred punishments far more +severe than any of us would ever have thought of inflicting. + +A heavy rain fell on us during the night, which detained us next morning +until eight o'clock. I employed the time in extracting something +intelligible respecting the character of the natives in front, but we +were all so profoundly ignorant of the language that we could make but +little headway. In the endeavour to make herself clear, the woman drew on +the ground a sketch of the course of the Ituri. This illustrated one of +the strangest facts in African geography that one could imagine. The +river was represented as going up to the crest of the watershed, flowing +steeply upward parallel with Lake Albert, and finally lifting itself over +to be precipitated into the Nyanza! Stupefied by what she said, I kept +her by me as we marched out of camp into the open. From the crown of a +hill she pointed out, half a mile below, the Ituri River flowing +eastward. The stretch in view was an east by south course. + +Now here was a deep puzzle. We had crossed from the right bank to the +left bank of the Ituri two days previously, in N. Lat. 1° 24': we were +now in N. Lat. 1° 28'. Yet the Ituri we saw flowed E. by S. and E.S.S., +and my route to Kavalli was obviously south of east. + +I declined to perplex myself any more with the problem, or in trying to +understand what the woman meant, that the river we had ascended for 600 +miles from the Congo flowed to the Nyanza. The only solution possible was +that there were two Ituris, one flowing to the Congo, the other into the +Nile basin; but both she and her brother stoutly maintained that there +was only one Ituri. + +We continued on our journey, following a path which dipped down into the +valley. We presently stood on the banks of the stream, and the solution +was at hand. It was the main Ituri River, flowing south of west! We are +all wise after the event. + +There was a clumsy, misshapen canoe in the river, and as Saat Tato was an +expert canoeist, he was detailed to ferry the caravan over for a reward +of 20 dollars. The river was 125 yards broad, about seven feet average +depth, with a current of two knots. It was a cataract of this stream +whose low thunder we had heard near Mbiri. + +The natives of Abunguma, on the left side of the river, watched our +operations from a hill-top a mile off, with an air of confidence which +seemed to say, "All right, friends. When you are through, you will have +to reckon with us." Nothing could be done in such an open land as this +without "all the world knowing it." The Abunguma shook their spears +bravely at us; the Babusessé occupied every prominent point on the right +side of the river. It appeared once or twice as if our manhood was about +to be tested on an important scale. There was the comfort, however, that, +knowing the natives to be alert and active, we could not be surprised on +a pasture slope where the grass around the camp was but three inches +high. + +Since we had entered Ibwiri we had fared luxuriously--for Africa. We had +enjoyed meat and milk daily. We had lived on fowls, young and dried +beans, sugar-cane, sweet potatoes, yams, colocassia, tomatoes, brinjalls, +melons, plantains, and bananas. On the people the effect was wonderful. +They were men in every respect superior both in body and spirit to the +gaunt and craven wretches whom the Arab slaves of Ipoto scourged and +speared without more than a mild protest. On the whites also the effect +had been most beneficial. Though spare, we were no longer meagre and +haggard; a little wine would have completed the cure. + +A gentle grassy slope, on the next morning, took us, in the course of an +hour, to the crown of one of those long undulations so characteristic of +this region. It furnished us with another all-round view peculiarly +interesting to us. Our intended direction was southeast, as we were +bearing for a high conical peak at the end of a range of grass-covered +mountains, which afterwards became known to us as Mazamboni's Peak. We +dipped down into delightful vales, watered by cool and clear brooks. +Close to these were small clusters of native homesteads, with their +fields of unripe sorghum, sweet potato, and sugar-cane patches, &c. But +the homesteads were all abandoned, and their owners were observing us +from the sky-line of every superior hill. Finally we passed an empty +cattle zeriba, the sight of which was loudly cheered, and cries of "Ay, +the master is right, and every word comes to pass. First will come the +grass-land, then the cattle with brave men to defend them, then hills, +then the Nyanza, and lastly the white man. The grass-land we have seen, +here is the cattle yard, yonder are the mountains, the brave men and the +Nyanza and the white man we shall yet see, please God." + +We bore on our way to a valley through which another river rushed and +roared. On our left was a rugged line of rocks that rose in huge and +detached masses, on the top of which a dozen men might be seated +comfortably. Connecting these huge rock masses was a lower line of rocks, +more uniform, forming the bare spine of a ridge. At some places we passed +so close to the base of this hill that we were within easy stone's throw +of the summits. But though we were prepared for a demonstration, the +natives remained singularly quiet. The path we followed halted at a +suspension bridge across a third "Ituri," which had better be +distinguished as East Ituri to prevent misunderstanding. This last river +was thirty yards wide, deep and swift as a rapid. Spanned by a bridge of +such fragile make that we could only pass one at a time in safety, it +required one hundred and twenty seconds for a single person to cross the +ninety-feet span, and the caravan was not on the other side entirely +before 6 P.M. As the crossing was in a position of great disadvantage, +riflemen had been on the look-out all day. + +In the afternoon we saw a fine black cow and her calf issue out of a +defile in the rocky ridge just described, and clamours of "Beef, +beef--ay, beef, how are you? we have not seen you since we were young!" +rose loud. The Abunguma had hidden their cattle among the rocky hills, +and these specimens had probably been refractory. + +[Illustration: SUSPENSION BRIDGE ACROSS THE E. ITURI.] + +Leaving the picturesque valley of East Ituri on the 8th, we ascended an +easy slope to the top of a hill where we obtained a long view of the +crooked and narrow valley of the East Ituri, and were able to observe +that it came from an east-south-east direction. Shortly after, something +more like a plain opened before us, extending over a score of miles to +the south, bordered on the north by the stony ridge and valley we had +just left behind, while to the eastward rose Mazamboni's mountain range, +whose northern end, conspicuous by the tall peak, was our present +objective point. + +At 9.30 A.M. we had approached several miles nearer this mountain range, +and before descending into the valley of a streamlet flowing northward, +we observed with wonder that the whole intervening space as far as the +mountains was one mass of plantations, indicative of a powerful +population. Here then, we thought, "will be the tug of war. The Abunguma +have left their settlements in order to join this numerous tribe, and +meet us with a fitting reception." No more populous settlements had been +seen since we had departed from Bangala on the Congo. A suspicion that +these were among the confederation of tribes who hemmed in the poor +anxious governor of Equatoria also crept into our minds, as we looked +upon this huge display of numbers and evidence of wealth and security. + +With the view of not provoking the natives, and of preventing the +incorrigible looters of the column from the commission of mischief, we +took a south-east track to skirt the district. We were able to steer our +course between the plantations, so that no cover was afforded to an +enemy. At 11.30 we had reached the eastern extremity of the district, and +then rested for the noon halt and refreshment, under the shadow of a tree +whose branches rustled before a strong cool breeze from the Nyanza. + +Resuming the march at 1 P.M. we entered the depths of banana plantations, +marvelling at the great industry evinced, and the neatness of the +cultivated plots. The conical homesteads were large and partitioned +within, as we observed while passing through a few open doorways, by +screens of cane grass. Every village was cleanly swept, as though they +had been specially prepared for guests. Each banana stalk was loaded with +bananas, the potato fields were extensive, the millet fields stretched +away on either side by hundreds of acres, and the many granaries that +had lately been erected manifested expectations of a bountiful harvest. + +We finally emerged from the corn-fields without being once annoyed. We +thought the natives had been cowed by exaggerated reports of our power, +or they had been disconcerted by our cautious manoeuvre of leaving a fair +open margin between the line of march and the groves; but much to our +surprise we encountered no opposition, though large masses of the +aborigines covered the eminences bordering our route. + +The broad and well-trodden path towards the mountains which we were now +rapidly approaching bisected an almost level plain, three miles wide, +rich with pasture grass in flower. The Eastern Ituri was not far off on +our left flank, and on the other side of it another populous settlement +was in view. + +At 3 P.M. we arrived at the base of the Mountain of the Peak. Many of its +highest points were crowned with clusters of huts. The cotes of the +natives were in the folds of the mountain fronting us. The people +gathered in large groups on the nearest summits, and when we were near +enough the shouts of defiance were uttered with loud and strident voices. +We estimated the average height of the hills nearest to us at about 800 +feet above the plain, and as the slopes were particularly steep we judged +their distance to be between 800 and 1000 yards from us. + +Much to our pleasure and relief the path, instead of ascending those +steep slopes, skirted their base, and turned east, pursuing the direction +we wished being now in, North Lat. 1° 25' 30". A valley unfolded to our +view as we rounded the corner of the Peak Range, with a breadth of one to +two miles wide, which was clothed with luxuriant sorghum ripening for the +sickle. On our right, rising immediately above us, was the north side of +Mazamboni's range; to our left, the ground, hidden by crops of grain, +sloped gradually to a rapid branch of the East Ituri, and beyond it rose, +an easy slope to a broad horse-shoe shaped grassy ridge, studded with +homesteads, green with millet and corn, and rich in banana groves. One +sweeping view of our surroundings impressed us with the prosperity of the +tribe. + +[Illustration: OUR FIRST EXPERIENCES WITH MAZAMBONI'S PEOPLE. +VIEW FROM NZERA KUM HILL.] + +On entering this rich crop-bearing valley a chorus of war-cries pealing +menacingly above our heads caused us to look up. The groups had already +become more numerous, until there were probably 300 warriors with shield, +spear, and bow, shaking their flashing weapons, gesturing with shield and +spear, crying wrathfully at us in some language. Waxing more ungovernable +in action they made a demonstration to descend; they altered their +intentions, returned to the summit, and kept pace with us--we along the +base, they along the crest of the fore hills, snarling and yelling, +shouting and threatening, which we took to be expressive of hate to us, +and encouragement to those in the valley. + +Issuing out of the first series of cornfields, we heard the war-cries of +the valley natives, and comprehended that they were taking position in +favourable localities--the hill natives warning and guiding them. It was +now near 4 P.M., a time to pick out camp, to make ready for the night in +the midst of a population overwhelming in its numbers. Fortunately, close +at hand rose the steep hill of Nzera-Kum with a spur, whose level top +rose a hundred feet above the general face of the valley. It stood like +an islet in the valley, distant from the river 500 yards, and from the +base of Mazamboni's range 200 yards. From the crest of Nzera-Kum we could +command a view east and west of all the northern face of the high range, +and away over the summit lines of the horse-shoe ridge, across the Ituri +branch. Fifty rifles could hold a camp on such a position against a +thousand. We hurried up towards it, the warriors on the range slopes +converging downward as if divining our intentions; a mass of noisy +belligerents hastening towards the line of march from the river banks. +The scouts in the advance fired a few solitary shots to clear the front, +and we succeeded in reaching the islet hill and scrambled up. The loads +were thrown down, a few picked skirmishers were ordered to either flank +of the column to assist the rear-guard, others were directed to form a +zeriba around the crown of the spur; a body of thirty men was sent to +secure water from the river. In half an hour the column was safe on the +hill, the zeriba was near completion, there was water for the thirsty, +and we had a few minutes to draw breath and to observe from our +commanding elevation what were our surroundings. The bird's-eye view was +not a bit encouraging. About fifty villages were sprinkled through the +valley; plantation after plantation, field after field, village after +village met our vision in every direction. What lay on the mountains we +did not know. The swarms of lusty-voiced natives on the slopes now +numbered over 800. The air seemed filled with the uproar of the shouts. + +The mountaineers appeared disposed to try conclusions at once. We were +fatigued with the march of 13 miles; the hot sun and weight of burdens +had weakened the physical powers of the men. Some of the best, however, +were picked out and sent to meet the mountaineers, while we stood and +watched to weigh the temper of our opponents. Four of the scouts were +foremost. An equal number of the mountaineers, not a whit loth for the +encounter, bounded gallantly to meet them. They intuitively felt that the +courage of our four men was not of the highest order. They approached to +within 100 yards of them, and prepared their bows against the rifles. Our +men delivered their fire harmlessly, and then backed; the mountaineers +advanced, with fingers on their bow-strings. Our four men fled, while a +hundred voices from our camp, looking down upon the scene, execrated +them. This was a bad beginning for our side; the natives accepted it as a +favourable omen to them, and yelled triumphantly. To check this glow, our +riflemen sought cover, and seriously annoyed the natives. Some at the +extremity of the hill of Nzera-Kum did execution among the mountaineers +on the slope of the range opposite, at 400 yards distance; others crept +down into the valley towards the river, and obtained a triumph for us; +others, again, working round the base of Nzera-Kum, effected a diversion +in our favour. Saat Tato, our hunter, carried away a cow from her owners, +and we thus obtained a taste of beef after eleven months' abstinence. As +night fell, natives and strangers sought their respective quarters, both +anticipating a busy day on the morrow. + +Before turning in for the night, I resumed my reading of the Bible as +usual. I had already read the book through from beginning to end once, +and was now at Deuteronomy for the second reading, and I came unto the +verse wherein Moses exhorts Joshua in those fine lines, "Be strong and of +a good courage; fear not, nor be afraid of them: for the Lord thy God, He +it is that doth go with thee; He will not fail thee, nor forsake thee." + +I continued my reading, and at the end of the chapter closed the book, +and from Moses my mind travelled at once to Mazamboni. Was it great +fatigue, incipient ague, or an admonitory symptom of ailment, or a shade +of spiteful feeling against our cowardly four, and a vague sense of +distrust that at some critical time my loons would fly? We certainly were +in the presence of people very different from the forest natives. In open +our men had not been tested as they were to-day, and what my officers and +self had seen of them was not encouraging. At any rate, my mind was +occupied with a keener sense of the danger incurred by us in adventuring +with such a small force of cowardly porters to confront the tribes of the +grass land than I remember it on any previous occasion. It seemed to me +now that I had a more thorough grasp of what might be expected. Whether +it followed a larger visual view of land and population, or that I was +impressed by the volume of human voices, whose uproar yet seemed to sound +in my ears, I know not. But a voice appeared to say, "Be strong and of a +good courage: fear not, nor be afraid of them." I could almost have sworn +I heard the voice. I began to argue with it. Why do you adjure me to +abandon the Mission? I cannot run if I would. To retreat would be far +more fatal than advance; therefore your encouragement is unnecessary. It +replied, nevertheless, "Be strong and of a good courage. Advance, and be +confident, for I will give this people and this land unto thee. I will +not fail thee nor forsake thee; fear not, nor be dismayed." + +Still--all this in strict confidence--before I slept I may add that +though I certainly never felt fitter for a fight, it struck me, that both +sides were remarkably foolish, and about to engage in what I conceived to +be an unnecessary contest. We did not know even the name of the land or +of the people, and they were equally ignorant of our name and of our +purpose and motives. I sketched out my plans for the morrow, adjured the +sentries to keep strict watch, and in sleep became soon oblivious of this +Mazamboni--lord of the mountains and plains. + +December 9th was a halt. In the morning we completed our thorn-bush +fence, distributed cartridges, and examined rifles. By 9 o'clock the +chill of early day retired before the warmth of a hot sun, and shortly +after the natives mustered in imposing numbers. War-horns, with the weird +notes heard in Usoga and Uganda in 1875, sounded the gathering, and over +twenty drums boomed from each mountain top. There were shouts and cries +flying in currents from mountain to valley, and back again, for we were +quite surrounded. About 11 a.m. some few natives descended close enough +for one Fetteh, a man of Unyoro, to distinguish what was said, and he +exchanged a hot abuse with them, until there was quite a wordy war. +Hearing that one of our people understood the language, I directed the +wrathful tongues in the interests of peace, and a more amicable language +resulted. + +"We on our side," was said, "only fight in defence. You assail us while +quietly passing through the land. Would it not be better to talk to each +other, and try to understand one another first, and then, if we cannot +agree, fight." + +"True, those are wise words," a man replied. "Tell us who you are. Where +you are from, and where you are going." + +"We are of Zanzibar, from the sea, and our chief is a white man. We are +bound for the Nyanza of Unyoro." + +"If you have a white man with you, let us see him, and we shall believe +you." + +Lieutenant Stairs promptly stepped out of the zeriba and was introduced +by Fetteh. + +"Now you tell us who you are," said Fetteh. "What land is this? Who is +your chief? And how far is the Nyanza?" + +"This land is Undussuma, the chief is Mazamboni. We are Wazamboni. The +Ruweru (Nyanza) is reached in two days. It will take you five days. It +lies east. There is only one road, and you cannot miss it." + +This began the exchange of friendly intercourse. Strangerhood was broken. +We then learned that there were two chiefs in Undussuma, one of whom +would not be averse to peace, and exchange of friendly gifts, if it were +agreeable to us. We gladly assented, and several hours were passed +without a hostile cry being heard, or a shot fired, except at the river, +the natives on whose shores were obstinate, and declined listening to +anything but war proposals. + +In the afternoon a message came from Mazamboni saying he would like to +see the pattern and quality of our monies. We sent two yards of scarlet +uniform cloth, and a dozen brass rods, and a promise was given that early +next morning the chief himself would appear and go through the ceremony +of brotherhood with me. + +The next day we were refreshed after an undisturbed night, and fondly +indulged in anticipations that in a few hours, perhaps, our camp would be +filled with friendly natives. We had been requested not to depart until a +return gift should arrive from Mazamboni. We accordingly had resolved on +another day's halt. The morning was still raw and cold, for we were 4,235 +feet above the sea. A mist covered the tall mountain tops, and a slight +drizzle had set in, which excused our friends from a too early +appearance; but at the third hour the mist cleared away, and the outline +of the entire range was clear against a pale blue sky. Lieutenant Stairs, +Mr. Jephson, and myself, were out at the extreme west end of the spur +enjoying the splendid view, admiring the scenery, and wondering when such +a beautiful land would become the homesteads of civilized settlers. +Stairs thought that it resembled New Zealand, and said that he would not +mind possessing a ranche here. He actually went so far as to locate it, +and pointed out the most desirable spot. "On that little hill I would +build my house"--"Shebang" he called it. I wonder if that is a New +Zealand term for a villa--"There I would herd my cattle; my sheep could +browse on the mountain slope behind, and----" + +But meantime the natives had appeared on the crests of the mountain in +lengthy columns, converging towards a common centre--a butt end of a +truncated hill--a thousand yards in an air line from where we stood, and +a voice like that of a mob orator, clear and harmonious, broke on our +ear. It proceeded from a man who, with a few companions, had descended to +about 300 feet above the valley. He was ten minutes speaking, and Fetteh +had been brought to listen and translate. Fetteh said that he commanded +peace in the name of the king; but strange to say, no sooner had the man +concluded his speech than loud, responsive yells rose from the valley in +a hideous and savage clamour, and then from every mountain top, and from +the slopes there was a re-echo of the savage outburst. + +We surmised that such forceful yelling could not signal a peace, but +rather war; and in order to make sure, sent Fetteh down into the valley +below the speaker to ask him. The replies from the natives left us no +room to doubt. The two sounds--Kanwana, "peace," and Kurwana, "war," were +so similar that they had occasioned Fetteh's error. + +"We do not want your friendship," they cried. "We are coming down to you +shortly to drive you out of your camp with our herdsmen's staffs." And a +treacherous fellow, who had crawled under cover of low bush, came near +causing us a severe loss--our interpreter especially having an +exceedingly narrow escape. Fetteh picked up the arrows and brought them +to us, and delivered his news. + +There was then no alternative but to inflict an exemplary lesson upon +them; and we prepared to carry it out without losing a moment of time, +and with the utmost vigour, unless checked by proffers of amity. + +The companies were mustered, and fifty rifles were led out by Lieutenant +Stairs towards those obstinate and fierce fellows on the other side of +the Ituri branch. A party of thirty rifles were sent under Mr. Jephson to +skirmish up the slopes to the left; and twenty picked men were sent with +Uledi to make a demonstration to the right. Rashid was ordered with ten +men to the top of Nzera-Kum to guard against surprise from that quarter. +Jephson and Uledi would be marching to their positions unobserved by the +mountaineers, because the crowns of the forehills would obstruct the +view, and would approach to them within 200 yards without being seen, +while Lieutenant Stairs' company, being further out in the valley, would +absorb their attention. + +In a few minutes Stairs' company was hotly engaged. The natives received +our men with cool determination for a few minutes, and shot their arrows +in literal showers; but the Lieutenant, perceiving that their coolness +rose from the knowledge that there was a considerable stream intervening +between them and his company, cheered his men to charge across the river. +His men obeyed him, and as they ascended the opposite bank opened a +withering fire which in a few seconds broke up the nest of refractory and +turbulent fellows who had cried out so loudly for war. The village was +taken with a rush and the banana plantations scoured. The natives broke +out into the open on a run, and fled far northward. Lieutenant Stairs +then collected his men, set fire to the village, and proceeded to the +assault of other settlements, rattling volleys from the company +announcing the resistance they met. + +Meanwhile, Uledi's party of chosen men had discovered a path leading up +the mountain along a spur, and after ascending 500 feet, led his men up +into view on the right flank of the mob observing and cheering their +countrymen in the valley. The Winchesters were worked most handsomely. At +the same time Mr. Jephson's party came out of the left ravine, and +together they had such a disastrous effect on the nerves of the natives +that they fled furiously up the slopes, Uledi and his men chasing them. + +Mr. Jephson, after seeing them in full flight, faced eastward, and pushed +on for two miles, clearing every inhabitant out. By 1 P.M. all our men +were in camp, with only one man slightly wounded. Every man had behaved +wonderfully well; even the four cowards, who had been marked men, had +distinguished themselves. + +At 2 P.M., the natives in the valley having returned, each party was +despatched once again. Stairs led his men across the Ituri branch, and +followed the running fugitives far northward, then veered sharply round +to join Jephson, who had continued his way eastward. Uledi's scouts were +sent up to the very summit of the mountain range; but on observing the +immense number of homesteads that dotted it, he prudently halted. + +Until the afternoon the contest continued; the natives were constantly on +the run, charging or retreating. By evening not one was in sight, and the +silence around our camp was significant of the day's doings. The +inhabitants were on the mountains or far removed eastward and northward. +In the valley around us there was not a hut left standing to be a cover +during the night. The lesson, we felt, was not completed. We should have +to return by that route. In the natural course of things, if we met many +tribes of the quality of this, we should lose many men, and if we left +them in the least doubt of our ability to protect ourselves, we should +have to repeat our day's work. It was, therefore, far more merciful to +finish the affair thoroughly before leaving a tribe in unwhipped +insolence in our rear. The natives must have entertained an idea that we +could not fight outside our bush fence, which accounts for their tall +talk of driving us out with sticks, and that they were safe on the +mountains. We were compelled to root out the idea that they could harm us +in any way. + +A cow neglected by her owner was burnt in one of the villages close by, +and furnished us with a second limited ration of roast beef. + +On the 11th it rained again during the early morning, which kept us +indoors until 10 A.M. Some natives having then come out to demonstrate +their hostility on the mountains, Stairs, Jephson and Uledi led their men +up the mountain slopes in three separate small columns to the attack, and +made a successful tour among their stronghold. A small flock of goats was +captured, and distributed to the men, and our experiences of this day +satisfied the natives that they had nothing to gain by fighting. + +[Illustration: SHIELD OF THE EDGE OF THE PLAINS.] + +At one time it appeared as day would end with reconciliation, for a +native stood on a high hill above our position after all had reached +camp, and announced that he had been sent by Mazamboni to say that he +received our gifts, but that he had been prevented from visiting us +according to promise by the clamour of his young men, who insisted on +fighting. But now, as many of them had been killed, he was ready to pay +tribute, and be a true friend in future. + +We replied that we were agreeable to peace and friendship with them, but +as they had mocked us, kept our peace presents, and then scornfully +called us women, they must purchase peace with cattle or goats, and if +they held up grass in their hands they could approach without fear. + +It should be mentioned that when the warriors descended the mountain +slopes for the fight, every little squad of men was accompanied by a +large hound, of somewhat slender build, but courageous, and prompt to +attack. + +The arms of the Wazamboni consisted of long bows five and a half feet +long, and arrows twenty-eight inches long, besides a long sharp spear. +Their shields were long and narrow generally, but there were many of the +true Uganda type. The arrows were cruelly barbed, and the spear was +similar to that of Karagwé, Uhha, Urundi, and Ihangiro. + +[Illustration: VIEW OF THE SOUTH END OF ALBERT NYANZA. (_See page +306._)] + + + + +CHAPTER XII. + +ARRIVAL AT LAKE ALBERT, AND OUR RETURN TO IBWIRI. + + + We are further annoyed by the natives--Their villages + fired--Gavira's village--We keep the natives at bay--Plateau of + Unyoro in view--Night attack by the natives--The village of + Katonza's--Parley with the natives--No news of the Pasha--Our supply + of cartridges--We consider our position--Lieutenant Stairs + converses with the people of Kasenya Island--The only sensible + course left us--Again attacked by natives--Scenery on the lake's + shore--We climb a mountain--A rich discovery of grain--The rich + valley of Undussuma--Our return journey to Ibwiri--The construction + of Fort Bodo. + +On the 12th December we left camp at dawn without disturbance, or hearing +a single voice, and up to 9 A.M. it did not appear as if anybody was +astir throughout the valley. Our road led E. by S. and dipped down into +ravines, and narrow valleys, down which its tributaries from the mountain +range and its many gorges flowed under depths of jungle, bush, and +reed-cane. Villages were seen nestling amid abundance, and we left them +unmolested in the hope that the wild people might read that when left +alone we were an extremely inoffensive band of men. But at nine o'clock, +the chill of the morning having disappeared, we heard the first +war-cries, and traced them to a large group of villages that crowned a +detached line of hills occupying the foreground of the Undussuma range. +Perceiving that we continued our march without appearing to notice them, +they advanced boldly and hovered on our right flank and rear. + +By 11 A.M. there were two separate bands of natives who followed us very +persistently. One had come from the eastward, the other was formed out of +the population of the villages in the valley that we had left undamaged +and intact. + +By noon these bands had increased into numerous and frantic mobs, and +some of them cried out, "We will prove to you before night that we are +men, and every one of you shall perish to-day." + +At this hour, refreshed by our halt, we resumed the march through a +grassy wilderness. There were no villages in view on either hand, but the +mobs followed us, now and then making demonstrations, and annoying us +with their harsh cries and menaces. An expert shot left the line of +march, and wounded two of them at a range of 400 yards. This silenced +them for awhile, as though they were absorbed in wondering what missile +could inflict injuries at such a distance. But soon their numbers +received fresh accessions, and their audacity became more marked. The +rear-guard band presently were heard firing, and possibly with effect; at +any rate it was clear they had received a check. + +Finally, at 3.30, we came in view of the Bavira villages--the chief of +whom is called Gavira--situated on an open plain and occupying both banks +of a deep and precipitous ravine hollowed out of the clay by a +considerable tributary of the East Ituri. We in the front halted on the +eastern bank, as the natives--too tardy to effect anything--came rushing +down to prevent the crossing. Loads were at once dropped, skirmishers +were despatched from the advance to recross the river, and to assist the +rear guard, and a smart scene of battle-play occurred, at the end of +which the natives retreated on the full run. To punish them for four +hours' persecution of us we turned about and set fire to every hut on +either bank, then reforming we hastened up a steep hilly plateau, that +rose 200 feet above the plain, to meet the natives who had gathered to +oppose us. Long, however, before we could reach the summit they abandoned +their position and left us to occupy a village in peace. It being now a +late hour we camped, and our first duty was to render our quarters safe +against a night attack. + +It should be observed that up to the moment of firing the villages, the +fury of the natives seemed to be increasing, but the instant the flames +were seen devouring their homes the fury ceased, by which we learned +that fire had a remarkable sedative influence on their nerves. + +The village of Gavira's, wherein we slept that night, was 4,657 feet +above the sea. It had been a fine day for travel, and a S.E. breeze was +most cooling. Without it we should have suffered from the great heat. As +the sun set it became very cold; by midnight the temperature was 60°. We +had travelled nine miles, and mostly all complained of fatigue from the +marching and constant excitement. + +On the 13th we set off easterly a little after dawn, in order that we +might cover some distance before the aborigines ventured out into the +cold raw air of the morning. The short pasture grass was beaded with dew, +and wet as with rain. The rear guard, after disarranging our night +defences that the natives might not understand the manner of them, soon +overtook us, and we left the district in compact order ready for fresh +adventures. Until the third hour of the morning we were permitted to +travel amid scenes of peaceful stillness. We enjoyed the prospects, had +time to note the features of the great plain north of East Ituri, and to +admire the multitude of hilly cones that bounded the northern horizon, to +observe how the lines of conical hills massed themselves into a solid and +unbroken front to the east and west; how to the south of us the surface +of the land was a series of great waves every hollow of which had its own +particular stream; and how, about five miles off, the mountain range +continued from Undussuma East to the Balegga country, whose summits we +knew so well, formed itself into baylike curves wherein numerous +settlements found water and sweet grass for their cattle and moisture for +their millet fields, and finally prolonged itself, rounding northward +until its extremity stood east of us. Hence we observed that the +direction we travelled would take us before many hours between the +northern and southern ranges, to the top of a saddle that appeared to +connect them. A group of villages situated on the skyline of this saddle +was our objective point at present, until we could take further bearings +thence. + +But at 9 A.M. the natives began to stir and look around. Every feature of +the wide landscape being then free from mist and fog. Our long +serpent-like line of men was soon detected and hailed with war-cries, +uttered with splendid force of lungs, that drew hundreds of hostile eyes +burning with ferocity and hate upon us. Village after village was passed +by us untouched, but this, as we experienced the day before, they did not +place to our credit, but rather debited us with pusillanimity, all +reports of their neighbours notwithstanding. We felt it in our veins that +we were being charged with weakness. A crowd of fifty natives stood +aside, 300 yards from our path, observant of our conduct. They saw us +defile through their settlements with kindly regard for their property, +and eyes fixed straight before us, intent on our own business of travel +only. Far from accepting this as a proof that there was some virtue in +us, they closed behind the column, loudly and imperiously summoned their +countrymen to gather together and surround us--a call their countrymen +appeared only too willing to obey. As soon as they deemed their numbers +strong enough to take the offensive, they charged on the rear guard, +which act was instantly responded to by good practice with rifles. + +Every half-hour there was a stream at the bottom of its own valley, and a +breadth of cane-brake on either side of the brook, which required great +caution to keep the impulsive natives at bay. + +That group of villages on the skyline already mentioned, connecting the +now converging lines of hills to north and south of us, became more and +more distinct as we steadily pressed on eastward, and I began to feel a +presentiment that before another hour was passed, we should see the +Albert Nyanza. But as though there was some great treasure in our front, +or as if Emin Pasha and his garrison found himself in the position of +Gordon during his last hours at Khartoum, and these were the beleaguering +hosts, the natives waxed bolder and more determined, increased in numbers +faster, the war-cries were incessantly vociferated from every eminence, +groups of men became mobs, and finally we became conscious that a supreme +effort was about to be made by them. We cast our eyes about and saw each +elevation black with masses of men, while the broad and rolling plain +showed lines of figures, like armies of ants travelling towards us. + +At 11 A.M. we were near the crest of the last ridge intervening between +us and the saddle which we were aiming for, when we caught a view of a +small army advancing along a road, which, if continued, would soon cross +our track on the other side of the stream that issued from this ridge. +The attacking point I felt sure would be a knoll above the source of the +stream. The advance guard was about a hundred yards from it, and these +were ordered when abreast of the knoll to wheel sharply to the right, and +stack goods on its summit, and the word was passed to close files. + +As we arrived at the summit of the knoll, the head of the native army, +streaming thickly, was at the foot of it on the other side, and without +an instant's hesitation both sides began the contest simultaneously, but +the rapid fire of the Winchesters was altogether too much for them, for, +great as was the power of the united voices, the noise of the Winchesters +deafened and confused them, while the fierce hissing of the storm of +bullets paralysed the bravest. The advance guard rushed down the slopes +towards them, and in a few seconds the natives turned their backs and +bounded away with the speed of antelopes. Our men pursued them for about +a mile, but returned at the recall, a summons they obeyed with the +precision of soldiers at a review, which pleased me more even than the +gallantry they had displayed. The greatest danger in reality with +half-disciplined men is the inclination to follow the chase, without +regard to the design the enemy may have in view by sudden flight. It +frequently happens that the retreat is effected for a ruse, and is often +practised in Uganda. On this occasion forty men were chasing 500, while +1,500 natives at least were certainly surveying the field on a hill to +the right of us, and a similar number was posted to the left of us. + +Again we re-formed our ranks, and marched forward in close order as +before, but at 12.30 halted for refreshments, with a pretty wide circle +around us now, clear of noisy and yelling natives. Our noon halt +permitted them to collect their faculties, but though they were +undoubtedly sobered by the events of the morning they still threatened us +with imposing numbers of the Balegga, Bavira, and Wabiassi tribes. + +After an hour's rest the line of march was resumed. We found an +exceedingly well-trodden path, and that it was appreciated was evident +from the rapid and elastic tread of the column. Within fifteen minutes we +gained the brow of the saddle, or rather plateau, as it turned out to be, +and, about twenty-five miles away, we saw a dark blue and uniform line of +table-land, lifted up into the clouds and appearing portentously lofty. +The men vented a murmur of discontented surprise at the sight of it. I +knew it was Unyoro, that between us and that great and blue table-land +was an immense and deep gulf, and that at the bottom of this gulf was the +Albert. For there seemed to be nothing else before us, neither hill, +ridge, or elevation, but that distant immense dark blue mass; the eastern +slopes of the northern and southern ranges dipped down steeply as it were +into a gulf or profoundly deep valley. Our people, on viewing the plateau +of Unyoro in the distance, cried out in a vexed manner "Mashallah! but +this Nyanza keeps going further and further away from us;" but I cheered +them up with, "Keep your eyes open, boys! You may see the Nyanza any +minute now," which remark, like many others tending to encourage them, +was received with grunts of unbelief. + +But every step we now took proved that we were approaching an unusually +deep valley, or the Nyanza, for higher and higher rose the Unyoro plateau +into view, lower and lower descended the slopes on either hand of our +road, until at last all eyes rested on a grey cloud, or what is it, mist? +Nay, it is the Nyanza sleeping in the haze, for, looking to the +north-eastward it was the colour of the ocean. The men gazed upon the +lake fully two minutes before they realized that what they looked upon +was water, and then they relieved their feelings with cheers and +enthusiastic shouts. + +[Illustration: THE SOUTH END OF THE ALBERT NYANZA, DEC. 13, 1887.] + +We continued our pace a few minutes longer, until we stood on the verge +of the descent from the plateau, and near a small village perched on this +exposed situation we made a short halt to take bearings, inspect +aneroids, and reflect a little upon our next step. + +Though the people were shouting and dancing, and thronging around me with +congratulations for having "hit the exact spot so well," a chill came +over me, as I thought of the very slight chance there was, in such a +country as this, of finding a canoe fit to navigate the rough waters of +the Albert. With my glass I scrutinized anxiously the distant shore of +the Lake, but I could not see any canoe, neither could I see a single +tree in all the long stretch of slope and extended plain of a size +suitable for a canoe, and the thought that, after all, our forced march +and continual fighting and sacrifice of life would be in vain, struck me +for the first time, even while upon every man's lips was the pious +ejaculation, "Thank God." + +And yet it was just possible we might be able to buy a canoe with brass +rods and some red cloth. It would be too hard if our long travels hither +were to be quite in vain. + +The scene I looked upon was very different to what I had anticipated. I +had circumnavigated the Victoria Nyanza and the Tanganika, and I had +viewed the Muta Nzigé from a plateau somewhat similar to this, and canoes +were procurable on either Lake; and on the Victoria and Tanganika it +would not be difficult, after a little search, to find a tree large +enough for cutting out a canoe. But I saw here about twenty miles of most +barren slopes, rugged with great rocks, and furrowed with steep ravines +and watercourses, whose banks showed a thin fringe of miserable bush, and +between them were steeply descending sharp and long spurs, either covered +with rocky and clayey débris or tall green grass. Between the base of +this lengthy fall of slope and the Lake was a plain about five or six +miles in breadth, and about twenty miles long, most pleasant to look upon +from the great altitude we were on. It resembled a well-wooded park land, +but the trees spread out their branches too broadly to possess the +desirable stems. They appeared to me to be more like acacia, and +thorn-trees and scrub, which would be utterly useless for our purpose. + +Our aneroids indicated an altitude of 5,000 feet. The islet marked on +Mason's chart as near Kavalli bore E.S.E., magnetic, about six miles from +our position. Laying Colonel Mason's chart of the Albert Nyanza before +us, we compared it with what was spread so largely and grandly over 2,500 +feet below us, and we were forced to bear witness to the remarkable +accuracy of his survey. Here and there some trifling islets and two or +three small inlets of the Lake into that singular sunken plain which +formed the boundary of the Lake as its southerly extremity were observed +as omissions. + +I had often wondered at Sir Samuel Baker's description of the Albert +Nyanza's extension towards the southwest, perhaps oftener after Colonel +Mason's mysteriously brusque way of circumscribing its "illimitability," +but I can feel pure sympathy with the discoverer now, despite the +terrible "cutting off" to which it has been subjected. For the effect +upon all of us could not have been greater if the Albert stretched to +Khartoum. Whether limited or unlimited, the first view of water and +mountain is noble, and even inspiring. Even at its extremity the Lake has +a spacious breadth, but as we follow the lines of its mountain banks the +breadth widens grandly, the silver colour of its shallow head soon +changes into the deep azure of ocean, the continuing expanding breadth, +immense girdle of mountains and pale sky, lose their outlines, and become +fused into an indefinite blueness at the sea-horizon north-eastward, +through which we may vainly seek a limit. + +Our point of observation was in N. Lat. 1°. 23'.00". The extreme end of +the eastern end of the lake bore S.E. magnetic, and the extreme western +end bore S.E. and S.E. by S. Between the two extremities there were five +inlets, one of which reached two miles further south than any of those +observed points. + +The table-land of Unyoro maintained an almost uniform level as far as we +could see, its terminable point being cut off from view by a large +shoulder of mountain, that thrust itself forward from the western range. +Southward of the lake and between these opposing heights--that of the +table-land of Unyoro on the east, and that of the table-land on the +west--extended a low plain which formerly, but not recently, must have +been inundated by the waters of the lake, but now was dry firm ground, +clothed with sere grass, gently rising as it receded south, and finally +producing scrubby wood, acacia and thorn, like the terrace directly below +us. + +After a halt of about twenty minutes, we commenced the descent down the +slopes of the range. Before the rear-guard under Lieutenant Stairs had +left the spot, the natives had gathered in numbers equal to our own, and +before the advance had descended 500 feet, they had begun to annoy the +rear-guard in a manner that soon provoked a steady firing. We below could +see them spread out like skirmishers on both flanks, and hanging to the +rear in a long line up the terribly steep and galling path. + +While they shot their arrows, and crept nearer to their intended victims, +they cried, "_Ku-la-la heh lelo?_"--"Where will you sleep to-night? don't +you know you are surrounded? We have you now where we wanted you." + +Our men were not a whit slow in replying, "Wherever we sleep, you will +not dare come near; and if you have got us where you wanted us to be, why +not come on at once?" + +Though the firing was brisk, there was but little hurt done; the ground +was adverse to steadiness, and on our side only one was wounded with an +arrow, but the combat kept both sides lively and active. Had we been +unburdened and fresh, very few of these pestilent fellows would have +lived to climb that mountain again. + +The descent was continued for three hours, halting every fifteen minutes +to repel the natives, who, to the number of forty, or thereabouts, +followed us down to the plain. + +Half a mile from the base of the mountain we crossed a slightly saline +stream, which had hollowed a deep channel, banked by precipitous and in +some places perpendicular walls of débris 50 feet high, on either side. +On the edge of one of these latter walls we formed a camp, the half of a +circle being thus unassailable; the other half we soon made secure with +brushwood and material from an abandoned village close by. Having +observed that the daring natives had descended into the plain, and +knowing their object to be a night attack, a chain of sentries were +posted at a distance from the camp, who were well hidden by the grass. An +hour after dark the attack was made by the band of natives, who, trying +one point after another, were exceedingly surprised to receive a fusilade +from one end of the half circle to the other. + +This ended a troublous day, and the rest we now sought was well earned. + +Inspecting the aneroid on reaching the camping-place, we discovered that +we had made a descent of 2,250 feet since we had left our post of +observation on the verge of the plateau above. + +On the 14th we left the base of the plateau, and marched across the plain +that gently sloped for 5 miles to the lake. As we travelled on, we +examined closely if among the thin forest of acacia any tree would likely +be available for a canoe; but the plain was destitute of all but acacia, +thorn-bush, tamarind, and scrub--a proof that the soil, though +sufficiently rich for the hardier trees, had enough acrid +properties--nitre, alkali, or salts--to prevent the growth of tropical +vegetation. We, however, trusted that we should be enabled to induce the +natives to part with a canoe, or, as was more likely, probably Emin Pasha +had visited the south end of the lake, according to my request, and had +made arrangements with the natives for our reception. If not, why +ultimately perhaps we should have legitimate excuse for taking a +temporary loan of a canoe. + +About a mile and a half from the lake we heard some natives cutting fuel +in a scrubby wood, not far from the road. We halted, and maintained +silence while the interpreter attempted to obtain a reply to his friendly +hail. For ten minutes we remained perfectly still, waiting until the +person, who proved to be a woman, deigned to answer. Then, for the first +time in Africa, I heard as gross and obscene abuse as the traditional +fishwoman of Billingsgate is supposed to be capable of uttering. We were +obliged to desist from the task of conciliating such an unwomanly +virago. + +We sent the interpreter ahead with a few men to the village at the lake +side, which belonged to a chief called Katonza, and sometimes Kaiya +Nkondo, with instructions to employ the utmost art possible to gain the +confidence of the inhabitants, and by no means to admit rebuff by words +or threats, hostile action only to be accepted as an excuse for +withdrawal. We, in the meantime, were to follow slowly, and then halt +until summoned, close to the settlement. + +The villagers were discovered totally unconscious of our approach and +neighbourhood. Their first impulse, on seeing our men, was to fly; but, +observing that they were not pursued, they took position on an anthill at +an arrow-flight's distance, more out of curiosity than goodwill. +Perceiving that our men were obliging, polite, and altogether harmless, +they sanctioned the approach of the caravan, and on seeing a white man +they were induced to advance near, while assurances of friendliness were +being assiduously reiterated. About forty natives mustered courage to +draw near for easy parley, and then harangues and counter-harangues, from +one side to the other, one party vowing by their lives, by the love of +their throats, by the blue sky above, that no harm was intended or evil +meditated--that only friendship and goodwill were sought, for which due +gifts would be given, the other averring that though their hesitation +might be misjudged, and possibly attributed to fear, still they had +met--often met--a people called the Wara-Sura, armed with guns like ours, +who simply killed people. Perhaps, after all, we were Wara-Sura, or their +friends, for we had guns also, in which case they were quite ready to +fight the instant they were assured we were Wara-Sura or their allies. + +"Wara-Sura! Wara-Sura! What men are these? We never heard of the name +before. Whence are they?" &c., &c., and so on unceasingly for three +mortal hours in the hot sun. Our cajolings and our winsomest smiles began +to appear of effect, but they suddenly assumed moodiness, and expressed +their suspicion in the harsh, rasping language of Unyoro, which grated +horribly on the hearing. In the end our effort was a complete failure. We +had, unknown to ourselves, incurred their suspicion by speaking too +kindly of Unyoro and of Kabba Rega, who, we found later, was their mortal +enemy. They would not accept our friendship, nor make blood-brotherhood, +nor accept even a gift. They would give us water to drink, and they would +show the path along the lake. + +"You seek a white man, you say. We hear there is one at Kabba Rega's +(Casati). Many, many years ago a white man came from the north in a +smoke-boat (Mason Bey), but he went away, but that was when we were +children. There has been no strange boat on our waters since. We hear of +strange people being at Buswa (Mswa), but that is a long way from here. +There northward along the lake lies your way. All the wicked people come +from there. We never heard any good of men who came in from the Ituri +either. The Wara-Sura sometimes come from there." + +They condescended to show us the path leading along the shore of the +lake, and then stood aside on the plain, bidding us, in not unfriendly +tones, to take heed of ourselves, but not a single article for their +service would they accept. Wondering at their extraordinary manner, and +without a single legitimate excuse to quarrel with them, we proceeded on +our way meditatively, with most unhappy feelings. + +Pondering upon the strange dead stop to that hopefulness which had +hitherto animated us, it struck us that a more heartless outlook never +confronted an explorer in wild Africa than that which was now so abruptly +revealed to us. From the date of leaving England, January 21, 1887, to +this date of 14th December, it never dawned on us that at the very goal +we might be baffled so completely as we were now. There was only one +comfort, however, in all this; there was henceforward no incertitude. We +had hoped to have met news of the Pasha here. A governor of a province, +with two steamers, life-boats, and canoes, and thousands of people we had +imagined would have been known everywhere on such a small lake as the +Albert, which required only two days' steaming from end to end. He could +not, or he would not, leave Wadelai, or he knew nothing yet of our +coming.[J] When compelled through excess of weakness to leave our steel +boat at Ipoto, we had hoped one of three things: either that the Pasha, +warned by me of my coming, would have prepared the natives for our +appearance, or that we could purchase or make a canoe of our own. The +Pasha had never visited the south end of the lake; there was no canoe to +be obtained, nor was there any tree out of which one could be made. + +Since we had entered the grass land we had expended five cases of +cartridges. There remained forty-seven cases with us, besides those at +Ipoto in charge of Captain Nelson and Dr. Parke. Wadelai was distant +twenty-five days' journey by land, though it was only four by lake. If we +travelled northward by land, it was most likely we should expend +twenty-five cases in fighting to reach Wadelai, assuming that the tribes +were similar to those in the south. On reaching Emin Pasha we should then +have only twenty-two left. If we then left twelve cases only with him, +we should have only ten to return by a route upon which we had fired +thirty cases. Ten cases would be quite as an inadequate supply for us as +twelve would be for Emin. This was a mental review of our position as we +trudged northward along the shore of the Albert. But hoping that at +Kasenya Island, to which we were wending, we might be able to obtain a +canoe, I resolved upon nothing except to search for a vessel of some kind +for a couple of days, and failing that, discuss the question frankly with +my companions. + +At our noon halt, a few miles north of Katonza's, the first note of +retreat was sounded. The officers were both shocked and grieved. + +"Ah, gentlemen," said I, "do not look so. You will make my own regrets +greater. Let us look the facts fairly in the face. If the island of +Kasenya has no canoe to give us, we must retrace our tracks; there is no +help for it. We will devote to-day and to-morrow to the search, but we +are then face to face with starvation if we linger longer in this +deserted plain. There is no cultivation on this acrid lake terrace, +nothing nearer than the plateau. Our principal hope was in Emin Pasha. I +thought that he could make a short visit in his steamers to this end of +the lake, and would tell the natives that he expected friends to come +from the west. What has become of him, or why lie could not reach here, +we cannot say. But Katonza's villagers told us that they had never seen a +steamer or a white man since Mason Bey was here. They have heard that +Casati is in Unyoro. Without a boat it means a month's journey to us to +find him." + +"There is but one way besides retreating that appears feasible to me, and +that is by seizing upon some village on the lake shore, and build an +entrenched camp, and wait events--say, for the news to reach Unyoro, or +Wadelai, or Kabba Rega; and Casati, Emin, or the Unyoro king may become +curious enough to send to discover who we are. But there is the food +question. These lake villagers do not cultivate. They catch fish and make +salt to sell to the people on the plateau for grain. We should have to +forage, ascending and descending daily that dreadful mountain slope. For +a week or so the natives of the plateau might resist every foraging +party, but finally surrender, and emigrate elsewhere to distant parts, +leaving a naked land in our possession. You must admit that this would be +a most unwise and foolish plan." + +"Were our boat here, or could a canoe be procurable by any means, our +position would be thus:--We could launch and man her with twenty men, +supply them with ten or twelve days' provisions and an officer, and bid +the crew 'God speed,' while we could re-ascend to the plateau, seize upon +a good position near the edge of the plateau, render it quickly +unassailable, and forage north, south, and west in a land abounding with +grain and cattle, and keep sentries observing the lake and watching for +the signal of fire or smoke. On her arrival, a hundred rifles could +descend to the lake to learn the news of Emin Pasha's safety, or perhaps +of his departure, _viâ_ Ukedi and Usoga, to Zanzibar. The last is +probable, because the latest news that I received from the Foreign Office +showed that he meditated taking such a step. But now, as we are without +canoe or boat, I feel, though we are but four days by water from Wadelai, +that we are only wasting valuable time in searching for expedients, when +common-sense bids us be off to the forest, find some suitable spot like +Ibwiri to leave our surplus stores, sick men, and convalescents from +Ugarrowwa and Ipoto, and return here again with our boat and a few dozen +cases of ammunition. In this inexplicable absence of Emin, or any news of +him, we should be unwise in wasting our strength, carrying the too great +surplus of ammunition, when perhaps the Pasha has departed from his +province." + +During our afternoon march we travelled along the lake until the island +of Kasenya bore from our camping-place 127° magnetic, or about a mile +distant, and our observation point on the summit of the plateau bore +289°. + +We made a bush fence, and halted at an early hour. The afternoon was +likewise spent in considering our position more fully under the new light +thrown upon it by the determined refusal of Katonza and his followers to +entertain our friendship. + +On the morning of the 15th December I sent Lieutenant Stairs and forty +men to speak with the people of Kasenya Island, which is about 800 yards +from the shore. As the lake is very shallow, the canoe with two fishermen +which Lieutenant Stairs hailed could not approach the shore to within +several hundred yards. The mud was of unfathomed depth, and none dared to +put a foot into it. Along the water's edge the singular wood ambatch +thrives, and continues its narrow fringe around the southern extremity of +the lake, resembling from a distance an extensive range of fishermen's +stakes or a tall palisade. The fisherman pointed out a locality further +up the lake where they could approach nearer, and which was their +landing-place the distance they were then at barely allowing the sounds +of the voice to be heard. We spent the morning awaiting Lieutenant +Stairs, who had considerable difficulty with the mud and swamps. In the +afternoon I sent Mr. Jephson and forty men to the landing-place indicated +by the natives, which was a low bluff wooded at the summit, with depth of +water sufficient for all practical purposes. In reply to a hail a +fisherman and his wife came to within a good bow-shot from the shore, and +deigned to converse with our party. They said-- + +"Yes, we remember a smoke-boat came here a long time ago. There was a +white man (Colonel Mason) in her, and he talked quite friendly. He shot a +hippopotamus for us, and gave it to us to eat. The bones lie close to +where you stand, which you may see for yourselves. There are no large +canoes on this lake or anywhere about here, for the biggest will but hold +two or three people with safety, and no more. We buy our canoes from the +Wanyoro on the other side for fish and salt. Will we carry a letter for +you to Unyoro? No (with a laugh). No, we could not think of such a thing; +that is a work for a chief and a great man, and we are poor people, no +better than slaves. Will we sell a canoe? A little canoe like this will +carry you nowhere. It is only fit for fishing close to shore in shallow +waters like these. Which way did you come here? By the way of the Ituri? +Ah! that proves you to be wicked people. Who ever heard of good people +coming from that direction? If you were not wicked people you would have +brought a big boat with you, like the other white man, and shoot hippos +like him. Go your ways--yonder lies your road; but as you go you will +meet with people as bad as yourselves, whose work is to kill people. +There is no food close to this lake or in all this plain. Fishermen like +we have no need of hoes. Look around everywhere and you will not find a +field. You will have to go back to the mountains where there is food for +you; there is nothing here. Our business is to make salt and catch fish, +which we take to the people above, and exchange for grain and beans. This +island is Kasenya, and belongs to Kavalli, and the next place is +Nyamsassi. Go on. Why do you not go on and try your luck elsewhere? The +first white man stopped in these waters one night in his boat, and the +next morning he went on his way, and since then we have not seen him or +any other." + +Go! The inevitable closed around us to fulfil the law that nothing worth +striving for can be obtained but by pain and patience. Look where we +might, a way to advance was denied to us, except by fighting, killing, +destroying, consuming and being consumed. For Unyoro we had no money, or +goods fit for Rabba Rega. Marching to Wadelai would only be a useless +waste of ammunition, and its want of it would probably prevent our +return, and so reduce us to the same helplessness as Emin Pasha was +reported to be in. If we cast our eyes lakewards we became conscious that +we were bipeds requiring something floatable to bear us over the water. +All roads except that by which we came were closed, and in the meantime +our provisions were exhausted. + +At the evening's council we resolved to adopt the only sensible course +left us--that is, to return to Ibwiri, eighteen days' journey from here, +and there build a strong stockade, then to send a strong party to Ipoto +to bring up the boat, goods, officers, and convalescents to our stockade, +and after leaving fifty rifles there under three or four officers, hurry +on to Ugarrowwa's settlement, and send the convalescents from there back +to Ibwiri, and afterwards continue our journey in search of the Major and +the rear column before he and it was a wreck, or marched into that +wilderness whence we so narrowly escaped, and then, all united again, +march on to this place with the boat, and finish the mission thoroughly, +with no anxieties in the rear bewildering or enfeebling us. + +The following day, December 16th, a severe rainstorm detained us in camp +until 9 A.M. The low hard plain absorbed the water but slowly, and for +the first hour we tramped through water up to the knee in some places. We +then emerged on a gently rolling plain, where the grass was but three +inches high, with clumps of bush and low trees a few score of yards +apart, making the whole scene resemble an ornamental park. Arriving at +the path connecting the landing-place of Kasenya with the mountain pass +by which we descended, we crossed it, keeping parallel to the lake shore, +and about a mile and a half from it. Presently herds of game appeared, +and, as our people were exceedingly short of provisions, we prepared to +do our best to obtain a supply of meat. After some trouble a male kudu +fell to my share, and Saat Tato, the hunter, dropped a hartebeest. Two +miles beyond the landing-place of Kasenya we halted. + +Our object in halting here was to blind the natives of Katonza's, who, we +felt sure, would follow us to see if we had moved on, for naturally, +having behaved so unruly to us, they might well entertain fears, or at +least anxiety, respecting us. At night we proposed to retrace our steps, +and follow the road to the foot of the mountain pass, and before dawn +commence the steep and stony ascent, and be at the summit before the +natives of the table-land above would be astir--as a struggle with such +determined people, heavily loaded as we were, was to be avoided if +possible. + +About 3 P.M., as we were occupied in dividing the game among the hungry +people, some native yells were heard, and half a dozen arrows fell into +the halting-place. Nothing can give a better idea of the blind stupidity +or utter recklessness of these savages than this instance of half a score +of them assaulting a well-appointed company of 170 men in the wilderness, +any two of whom were more than a match for them in a fight. Of course, +having delivered their yells and shot their arrows, they turned sharply +about and fled. Probably they knew they could rely upon their speed, for +they left our pursuing men far out of sight in an incredibly short time. +The ten savages who thus visited us were the same who had affected such +solicitude as to come to ascertain if we had lost the road yesterday. + +In my rambles after meat during the day, far down the shore of the Lake +from the halting-place, I came to vast heaps of bones of slaughtered +game. They seem to have been of many kinds, from the elephant and +hippopotamus down to the small bush-bok. It is probable that they had +been surrounded by natives of the district who, with the assistance of +fire, had slaughtered them in heaps within a circle of not more than 300 +yards in diameter. + +Saat Tato the hunter, after wounding a buffalo, was deterred from +following it by the appearance of a full-grown lion, who took up the +chase. + +The shore of the Lake as it trends North Easterly, increases greatly in +beauty. Over a score of admirable camping-places were seen by me close by +the edge of the Lake, with slopes of white firm sand, over much of which +the waves rolled ceaselessly. Behind was a background of green groves +isleted amid greenest sward, and game of great variety abounding near by; +while a view of singular magnificence and beauty greeted the eye in every +direction. + +At 5.30 P.M. we gathered together, and silently got into order of march +for the base of the mountain. We had three sick people with us, two of +them had not yet recovered from the effects of our miserable days in the +great forest, another suffered from a high fever incurred in last night's +rain-storm. + +At 9 P.M. we stumbled upon a village, which confused us somewhat, but the +huge mountain, rising like a dark cloud above us, prevented us from +retracing our steps, which without it we might well have done, as it was +extremely dark. In dead silence we passed through the sleeping village, +and followed a path out of it, which, degenerating into a mere trail, was +soon lost. For another hour we bore on, keeping our eyes steadily fixed +on the darker shadow that rose to the starry sky above us, until at last +wearied nature, betrayed by the petulance of the advance guard, demanded +a halt and rest. We threw ourselves down on the grass even where we +halted, and were soon in deepest slumber, indifferent to all troubles. + +At dawn we rose from a deep sleep, drenched with dew and but little +refreshed, and gazing up at the immense wall of the table-land that rose +in four grand terraces of about 600 feet each, we discovered that we were +yet about two miles from the foot of the pass. We therefore pressed +forward, and shortly reached the base of the ascent. By aneroids we were +150 feet above the level of the Lake, which was 2400 feet above the sea, +and we were 2500 feet below the summit of the saddle, or sunken ridge +between the Northern and Southern ranges whose Eastern ends frowned above +us. + +While the carriers of the expedition broke their fast on the last morsels +of meat received from yesterday's hunting, thirty picked men were sent up +to seize the top of the ascent, and to keep the post while the loaded +caravan struggled upward. + +After half-an-hour's grace we commenced ascending up the rocky and +rain-scoured slope, with a fervid "Bismillah" on our lips. After the +fatiguing night-march, the after-chill of the dew, and drizzling rain and +cold of the early morn, we were not in the best condition to climb to a +2500 feet altitude. To increase our discomfort, the Eastern sun shone +full on our backs, and the rocks reflected its heat in our faces. One of +the sick men in delirium wandered away, another suffering from high +bilious fever surrendered and would proceed no further. When we were +half-way up twelve natives of Katonza's were seen far below on the +plains, bounding along the track in hot chase of the Expedition, with the +object of picking up stragglers. They probably stumbled across our sick +men, and the ease with which a delirious and unarmed person fell a +sacrifice to their spears would inspire them with a desire to try again. +However, Lieutenant Stairs was in charge of the rear guard, and no doubt +would give a good account of them if they approached within range. + +At the top of the second terrace we found a little stream which was +refreshingly cool, for the quartzose rocks and gneissic boulders were +scorching. That the column suffered terribly was evident by the manner it +straggled in fragments over the slopes and terraced flats, and by the +streams of perspiration that coursed down their naked bodies. It was a +great relief that our sharp-shooters held the brow of the hill, for a few +bold spearmen might have decimated the panting and gasping sufferers. + +At the top of the third terrace there was a short halt, and we could +command a view far down to the rear of the column, which had not yet +reached the summit of the first terrace, and perceived the twelve natives +steadily following at about 500 yards' distance, and one by one they were +seen to bend over an object, which I afterwards found from the commander +of the rear-guard was our second sick man. Each native drove his spear +into the body. + +Observing their object, it was resolved that their hostility should be +punished, and Saat Tato the hunter and four other experts were posted +behind some large rocks, between which they could observe without being +detected. + +In two and three-quarter hours we reached the brow of the plateau, and +were standing by the advance-guard, who had done excellent service in +keeping the enemy away, and as the rear-guard mounted the height we heard +the sharp crack of rifles from the ambushed party, who were avenging the +murder of two of their comrades. One was shot dead, another was borne +away bleeding, and the ferocious scavengers had fled. + +During the short breathing pause the advance-guard were sent to explore +the village near by, which, it seems, was the exchange place between the +plateau natives and Lakists, and the gratifying news of a rich discovery +soon spread through the column. A large store of grain and beans had been +found, sufficient to give each man five days' unstinted rations. + +[Illustration: CORN GRANARY OF THE BABUSESSÉ.] + +At 1 P.M. we resumed our march, after giving positive command that close +order should be maintained in order to avoid accidents and unnecessary +loss of life. From the front of the column, the aborigines, who had in +the interval of the halt gathered in vast numbers, moved away to our +flanks and rear. A large party hid in some tall grass through which they +supposed we should pass, but we swerved aside through a breadth of short +grass. Baffled by this movement they rose from their coverts and sought +by other means to gratify their spleenish hate. + +In crossing a deep gully near the knoll, which had already witnessed a +stirring contest between us, the centre and rear of the column became +somewhat confused in the cany grass, and crossed over in three or four +broken lines; our third sick man either purposely lagged behind, or felt +his failing powers too weak to bear him further, and laid down in the +grass, but it is certain he never issued from the gully. We in the +advance halted for the column to reform, and just then we heard a storm +of triumphant cries, and a body of about 400 exulting natives came +leaping down the slopes, infatuated with their noisy rage and indifferent +to rear-guards. Doubtless the triumphant cries were uttered when the sick +man's fate was sealed. We had lost three! The rush was in the hopes of +obtaining another victim. And, indeed, the rear-guard, burdened with +loads and harassed by their duties, seemed to promise one speedily. But +at this juncture an expert left the advance and proceeded to take +position three hundred yards away from the line of march, and nearer to +the exultant natives, who were bounding gleefully towards the tired +rear-guard. His first shot laid a native flat, a second smashed the arm +of another and penetrated his side. There was an instant's silence, and +the advance leaped from their position to assist the rear-guard, who were +immediately relieved of their pursuers. + +An hour's journey beyond this scene we camped on a tabular hill, which +commanded a wide view of rich plains, for the night--footsore and weary +beyond any former experience. + +On this afternoon I reflected upon the singularity that savages +possessing such acute fear of death should yet so frequently seek it. +Most men would have thought that the losses which had attended their +efforts on the 10th, 11th, 12th, and 13th would deter such as these from +provoking strangers who had proved themselves so well able to defend +themselves. At one time we had almost been convinced that fire would +teach them caution; we had also thought that keeping in a quiet line of +march, abstaining from paying heed to their war-cries and their +manoeuvres, and only act when they rushed to the attack, were sufficient +to give them glimpses of our rule of conduct. But this was the fifth day +of our forbearance. We were losing men, and we could ill afford to lose +one, for a vast work remained unfinished. We had still to penetrate the +forest twice, we had to proceed to Ipoto to carry our boat to the Nyanza, +search the shores of the Lake as far as Wadelai--even Dufflé, if +necessary--for news of Emin, to return back again to the assistance of +Major Barttelot and the rear-column--who were by this time no doubt +looking anxiously for help, wearied with their overwhelming task--and +again to march through these grass-land tribes to be each time subject to +fatal loss through their unprecedented recklessness and courage. I +resolved, then, that the next day we should try to find what effect more +active operations would have on them, for it might be that, after one +sharp and severe lesson and loss of their cattle, they would consider +whether war was as profitable as peace. + +Accordingly, the next day before dawn I called for volunteers. Eighty men +responded with alacrity. The instructions were few-- + +"You see, boys, these natives fight on the constant run; they have sharp +eyes and long limbs. In the work of to-day we white men are of no use. We +are all footsore and weary, and we cannot run far in this country. +Therefore you will go together with your own chiefs. Go and hunt those +fellows who killed our sick men yesterday. Go right to their villages and +bring away every cow, sheep, and goat you can find. Don't bother about +firing their huts. You must keep on full speed, and chase them out of +every cane-brake and hill. Bring me some prisoners that I may have some +of their own people to send to them with my words." + +Meanwhile we availed ourselves of the halt to attend to our personal +affairs. Our shoes and clothing needed repair, and for hours we sat +cobbling and tailoring. + +At five in the afternoon the band of volunteers returned, bringing a +respectable herd of cattle with several calves. Six bulls were +slaughtered at once, and distributed to the men according to their +companies, who became nearly delirious with happiness. + +"Such," said Three o'clock the hunter, "is life in this continent with a +caravan. One day we have a feast, and on the next the stomach is craving. +Never are two days alike. The people will eat meat now until they are +blind, and next month they will thank God if they get as much as a +wood-bean." Saat Tato had discovered, like myself, that life in Africa +consists of a series of varied sufferings with intervals of short +pleasures. + +[Illustration: A VILLAGE OF THE BAVIRI: EUROPEANS TAILORING, ETC.] + +The cold was very great on this high land. Each night since we had +entered the grass country we had been driven indoors near sunset by the +raw misty weather of the evening, and we shivered with chattering teeth +in the extreme chilliness of the young day. On this morning the +temperature was at 59° Fahrenheit. The men were stark naked owing to the +exactions and extortions of the Manyuema, and had taken kindly to the +leather dresses of the natives, and the bark cloths worn by the +aborigines of the forest. After experiencing the extremes of cold to +which these open pasture-lands were subject, we no longer wondered at the +tardiness shown by the inhabitants to venture out before nine o'clock, +and it would have been manifest wisdom for us to have adopted their +example, had our task permitted it. + +On the 19th December we struck across the rolling plains towards +Mazamboni. As we came near Gavira's we were hailed by a group of natives, +who shouted out, "The country lies at your feet now. You will not be +interfered with any more; but you would please us well if you killed the +chief of Undussuma, who sent us to drive you back." + +At noon, as we were abreast of the Balegga Hills, two parties of forty +men each were observed to be following us. They hailed us finally, and +expressed a wish to "look us in the face." As they declined the +permission to approach us without arms, they were sharply ordered away, +lest we should suspect them of sinister designs. They went away +submissively. + +In the afternoon we came to the villages of those who had so persistently +persecuted us on the 12th. The people were spread over the hills +vociferating fiercely. The advance-guard were urged forward, and the +hills were cleared, despite the storms of abuse that were poured out by +the Balegga. + +A few of the captured cattle furnished milk. Our goats also gave an ample +supply for tea and coffee, which we were bound to accept as evidence that +the heart of Africa could supply a few comforts. + +On the 20th our march lay through the rich valley of Undussuma, the +villages of which had been fired on the 10th and 11th. Already it had +recovered its aspect of populousness and prosperity, for the huts were +all built anew, but it was still as death, the inhabitants sitting on the +mountains looking down upon us as we marched past. Not being challenged +or molested, we passed through in close order amidst a voiceless peace. +May it not be that by comparing one day's conduct with another, the now +from then, the children of Mazamboni will accept the proffer of +friendship which we may make on our return? We felt that the next time we +came into the land we should be received with courtesy, if not with +hospitality. Thus steadily, in view of hundreds of Mazamboni's warriors, +we passed through the renovated valley. The millet was now ripe for the +harvest, and with our departure westward, happy days were yet in store +for them. + +The next day we entered the Abunguma country, and after fording the East +Ituri River, camped on the right bank. + +The 22nd was a halt--both Lieutenant Stairs and myself were prostrated by +ague and footsores; and on the 23rd we marched to the main Ituri River, +where we found the Babusessé had withdrawn every canoe. We proceeded down +along the bank to a part of the stream that was islanded. By 2 P.M. of +the 24th we had made a very neat and strong suspension bridge from the +left bank to an island in midstream, though only two men could travel it +at a time. Uledi, the coxswain of the advance, with a chosen band of +thirteen men, swam from the island to the right bank with their rifles +over their shoulders, and the gallant fourteen men scoured up and down +the banks for canoes, but were unsuccessful. In the meantime a terrible +storm of hail as large as marbles beat down our tents, nearly froze the +men, and made everybody miserable with cold. The temperature had suddenly +fallen from 75° to 52° Fahrenheit. After lasting fifteen minutes the sun +shone on a camp ground strewn with hail. + +At daylight, Christmas morning, I sent Mr. Jephson and Chief Rashid +across the river with instructions to make a raft of banana stalks. It +was noon before it was finished, but in the meantime the caravan was +passing by the suspension bridge to the island, and the ferriage by raft +commenced, taking four men with loads at one trip. In one hour we +transported forty men and their loads by these banana stalks. Getting +more confident, we sent six men and six loads at one trip, and by 4 P.M. +No. 2 Company was safe across. No. 1 Company then turned to haul the +cattle from the left bank island, and after the rear-guard had crossed by +the bridge, "Three o'clock" laid his bill-hook to the suspension bridge, +and with a few strokes destroyed it. + +[Illustration: GREAT ROCK NEAR INDE-TONGA.] + +By noon of the 26th the Expedition was across the main Ituri River. Six +calves were slaughtered for a Christmas ration of beef. The next day one +of our head men died from inflammation of the lungs, caused by a chill +caught while halting on the brow of the plateau after the perspiring +ascent from the lake plain. By the 29th we had reached Indésura; we +thence proceeded to the small village of three huts near Iyugu. On the +1st of January, 1888, we camped at Indé-tongo, and the next day passed +by a gigantic granite rock in the forest, which sometimes is used by the +forest natives as a refuge resort during internecine strife. + +On the 6th January we passed by Indémwani, and came across the spot +whence Msharasha, a Zanzibari, had fallen from a log and broken his neck. +The scavengers of the woods--the red ants--had eaten the scalp and picked +the skull clean, until it resembled a large ostrich egg. The chest of the +body was still entire, but the lower limbs were consumed clean. On the +next day we entered Ibwiri, and came to Boryo's village; but, alas! for +our fond hopes of rendering the village comfortable for occupation, the +natives had set fire to their own fine dwellings. Fortunately for us, +they had taken the precaution to pick out the finest boards, and had +stacked many of them in the bush. The large stores of Indian corn had +been hastily removed into temporary huts built within the recesses of +impervious bush. We set to at once to collect the corn as well as the +boards, and before night we had begun the construction of the future Fort +Bodo, or the "Peaceful Fort." + +[Illustration: VIEW OF FORT BODO.] + +----- + [J] In November, 1887, Emin Pasha wrote to his friend Dr. + Felkin: "All well; on best terms with chiefs and people; + will be leaving shortly for Kibiro, on east coast of + Lake Albert. Have sent reconnoitering party to look out + for Stanley, which had to return with no news yet. + Stanley expected about December 15th (1887)." We arrived + on the 14th. + + + + +CHAPTER XIII. + +LIFE AT FORT BODO. + + + Our impending duties--The stockade of Fort Bodo--Instructions to + Lieutenant Stairs--His departure for Kilonga-Longa's--Pestered by + rats, mosquitoes, &c.--Nights disturbed by the lemur--Armies of red + ants--Snakes in tropical Africa--Hoisting the Egyptian + flag--Arrival of Surgeon Parke and Captain Nelson from + Ipoto--Report of their stay with the Manyuema--Lieutenant Stairs + arrives with the steel boat--We determine to push on to the Lake at + once--Volunteers to convey letters to Major Barttelot--Illness of + myself and Captain Nelson--Uledi captures a Queen of the + Pigmies--Our fields of corn--Life at Fort Bodo--We again set out + for the Nyanza. + +On arriving at West Ibwiri, about to build Fort Bodo, I felt precisely +like a "city man" returning from his holiday to Switzerland or the +sea-side, in whose absence piles of business letters have gathered, which +require urgent attention and despatch. They must be opened, read, sifted, +and arranged, and as he reflects on their import he perceives that there +are many serious affairs, which, unless attended to with method and +diligence, will involve him in confusion. Our holiday trip had been the +direct and earnest march to the Albert Lake, to serve a Governor who had +cried to the world, "Help us quickly, or we perish." For the sake of +this, Major Barttelot had been allowed to bring up the rear column, the +sick had been housed at Ugarrowwa's and Kilonga-Longa's stations, the +extra goods had been buried in a sandy caché at Nelson's starvation camp +or stored at Ipoto, the boat _Advance_ had been disconnected and hidden +in the bush, and Nelson and Surgeon Parke had been boarded with the +Manyuema, and everything that had threatened to impede, delay, or thwart +the march had been thrust aside, or eluded in some way. + +But now that the Governor, who had been the cynosure of our imaginations +and the subject of our daily arguments, had either departed homeward, or +could, or would not assist in his own relief, the various matters thrust +aside for his sake required immediate attention. So I catalogued our +impending duties thus:-- + +To extricate Nelson and Parke from the clutches of the Manyuema, also to +bring up the convalescents, the _Advance_ steel boat, Maxim machine gun, +and 116 loads stored at Ipoto. + +To construct Fort Bodo, to securely house a garrison; make a clearing; +plant corn, beans, tobacco, that the defenders may be secure, fed, and +comforted. + +To communicate with Major Barttelot by couriers, or proceed myself to +him; to escort the convalescents at Ugarrowwa's. + +[Illustration: VIEW OF FORT BODO.] + +If boat was stolen or destroyed, then to make a canoe for transport to +the Nyanza. + +If Barttelot was reported to be advancing, to hasten supplies of corn and +carriers to his assistance. + +And first, the most needful duty was to employ every soul in the building +of the stockade, within which the buildings could be constructed at more +leisure, and without the necessity of having rifles slung to our +shoulders. During our absence the natives had burnt West Ibwiri, and +Boryo's fine village was a smoking ruin when we entered. But the finest +boards had been stripped off the buildings, and were stacked outside, and +the corn had been hastily removed to temporary huts in impervious bush +two hundred yards away. These were now invaluable to us. + +By the 18th of January the stockade of Fort Bodo was completed. A hundred +men had been cutting tall poles, and bearing them to those who had sunk a +narrow trench outlining the area of the fort, to plant firmly and closely +in line. Three rows of cross poles were bound by strong vines and rattan +creepers to the uprights. Outside the poles, again, had been fixed the +planking, so that while the garrison might be merry-making by firelight +at night, no vicious dwarf, or ferocious aborigine might creep up, and +shoot a poisoned arrow into a throng, and turn joy to grief. At three +angles of the fort, a tower sixteen feet high had been erected, fenced, +and boarded, in like manner, for sentries by night and day to observe +securely any movement in the future fields; a banquette rose against the +stockade for the defenders to command greater view. For during the months +that we should be employed in realizing our stated tasks, the Manyuema +might possibly unite to assault the fort, and its defence therefore +required to be bullet-proof as well as arrow-proof. + +When the stockade was completed, the massive uprights, beams, hundreds of +rafters, thousands of climbers, creepers, vines, for the frames of the +officers' buildings, storerooms, kitchens, corn-bins, outhouses, piles of +phrynia leaves for roofing the houses, had to be collected, and then when +the gross work was so far advanced on the evening of the 18th, Lieutenant +Stairs was summoned to receive his special instructions, which were +somewhat as follows:-- + +"You will proceed to-morrow with a hundred rifles to Ipoto, to see what +has become of Nelson, Parke, and our sick men, and if living to escort +every man here. You will also bring the boat _Advance_, and as many goods +as possible. The last letters from Nelson and Parke informed us of many +unpleasant things. We will hope for the best. At any rate, you have one +hundred men, strong and robust as the Manyuema now, and their march to +the Albert Lake has made men of them. They are filled with hate of the +Manyuema. They go there independent, with corn rations of their own. You +may do what you like with them. Now, if Nelson and Parke have no +complaints of hostility other than general niggardliness and sulkiness of +the Manyuema, do not be involved in any argument, accusation, or +reproach, but bring them on. If the boat is safe, and has not been +injured, halt but one day for rest, and then hoist her up on your +shoulders and carry her here. But if the survivors will prove to you that +blood has been shed by violence, and any white or black man has been a +victim, or if the boat has been destroyed, then consult with the +surviving whites and blacks, think over your plans leisurely, and let the +results be what they ought to be, full and final retaliation. That is +all, except remember for God's sake that every day's absence beyond a +reasonable period necessary for marching there and back, will be dooming +us here to that eternal anxiety which follows us on this Expedition +wherever we go. It is enough to be anxious for Barttelot, the Pasha, +Nelson and Parke and our sick men, without any further addition." + +Three cows were slaughtered for meat rations for Stairs' Expedition, each +man received 120 ears of corn, goats, fowls, and plantains were taken for +the commander and his two friends, and the party set off for +Kilonga-Longa on the 19th. + +Stairs' party at muster consisted of-- The garrison numbered-- + 88 men. 60 men. + 6 chiefs. 3 cooks. + 1 officer. 4 boys. + 1 boy. 3 whites. + 1 cook. -- + 1 Manyuema. 70 + -- + 98 + + +After the departure of Stairs, I commenced the construction of a corn-bin +to store 300 bushels of Indian corn, and to plaster the interior of +head-quarters. Jephson busied himself in levelling floor of officers' +house. Men carried clay, others rammed and tamped. Some men were on the +roofs arranging the large-leaved phrynia one above the other on a kind of +trestle frame, others formed ladders, made clay-dough for the walls, +doors and windows for the houses, built kitchens, excavated latrines, or +dug the ditch--ten feet wide, six feet deep--through a hard yellow clay, +that lay under the twenty-four inches of humus and loam of the clearing. +When the houses were completed, we made a whitewash out of wood ashes, +which gave them a clean and neat appearance. + +[Illustration: PLAN OF FORT BODO AND VICINITY. _By Lieut. Stairs, R.E._] + +On the 28th, head-quarters was ready for occupation. We had cleared three +acres of land, cut down the bush clean to the distance of 200 yards from +the fort, chopped the logs--the lighter were carried away, the heavier +were piled up--and fire applied to them, and the next day folded the +tents and removed to our mansions, which, as Jephson declared, were +"remarkably snug." There was at first a feeling of dampness, but a +charcoal fire burning night and day soon baked the walls dry. + +To February 6 we extended the clearing, but discovering that natives were +prowling about the fort, planting poisoned splinters in the paths, +cutting down the bananas, and bent on general mischief, half of the +garrison were divided into two parties of patrols, to scour the +plantations and the adjoining forest. On this day's explorations several +camps of dwarfs were found at the distance of a mile from the fort, with +stores of plantains in their possession. They were thoroughly rousted +out, and their camps were destroyed. + +After a few days' experiences of life in the buildings we found we were +to be annoyed by hosts of rats, fleas, and microscopically small +mosquitoes. The rats destroyed our corn and bit our feet, sported +wantonly over our faces, and played hide-and-seek under our bedclothes. +It seems that by their wondrous craft they had discovered the natives +were about to burn West Ibwiri, and had migrated in time out of harm's +way into the deep bush and the corn fields, and they probably had a dim +idea that such an eligible place would not remain long without tenants. +When the commodious houses of the Europeans were erected, with spacious +lofts, and corn-bins with an inexhaustible supply of grain, they had +waited until everything was prepared; but in the meantime the strange +white men had excavated a long and deep ditch half round the fort, the +walls of which had been carved perpendicularly out of the clay, into +which, in their scurry and hurry to take possession, several families of +rats tumbled, and one morning "Randy," the fox-terrier, leaped in among +them, and exterminated the unfortunates. Still, from the Zanzibari +village some wise old rats had found safe entrance and multiplied so fast +that, until we became accustomed to their playful though rude sport, we +thought them to be an intolerable nuisance. + +At the same time the warm dry clay floors began to breed fleas by +myriads. Poor "Randy" was most miserable from these vexatious torments. +We were in no better plight. While dressing they made our limbs black +with their numbers. To suppress this pest we had recourse to keeping the +floors constantly damp, and to sweeping the floors twice a day. + +The ordinary mosquito netting was no protection against the mosquitoes of +the clearing. They sailed through the open work as mice would creep +through antelope nets, and the only remedy was to make mosquito curtains +out of cotton muslin, which happily succeeded, but half suffocated the +sleepers. + +Our soap had long ago been exhausted, and as a substitute, though it was +not agreeable to the smell, and was an altogether unsaleable article, we +manufactured a soft soap out of castor-oil and lye, and, after a few +experiments, succeeded in turning out a hard ball-like substance, which +had all the desired effect. + +Every night, from Yambuya to the plains, we had been troubled by harsh +screams from the lemur. It began at a startling loud key, very +deliberate, and as it proceeded the sounds became louder, quicker, and +higher, in a quick succession of angry, grating, wailing cries. In the +darkness and silence of the night, they sounded very weird. Soon, from a +distance of perhaps 200 yards, commenced a response in the same strain, +from another sexual mate. Sometimes two or three pairs of these would +make sleep impossible, if any indisposition had temporarily disturbed the +usual rest. + +Armies of red ants would sometimes invade the fort from the clearing; +their columns were not interrupted by the ditch. In long, thick, unbroken +lines, guarded by soldiers on either flank, the innumerable insects would +descend the ditch and ascend the opposite sides, over the parapets, +through the interstices of the poles, over the banquette, and down into +the plaza of the fort, some columns attacking the kitchen, others +headquarters, the officers' mess-house, and woe betide any unlucky naked +foot treading upon a myriad. Better a flogging with nettles, or cayenne +over an excoriated body, or a caustic bath for a ravenous itch, than +these biting and venomous thousands climbing up the limbs and body, +burying themselves in the hair of the head, and plunging their shining, +horny mandibles into the flesh, creating painful pustules with every +bite. Every living thing seems disturbed at their coming. Men are +screaming, bellowing with pain, dancing, and writhing. There is a general +rustle, as of a host of migrant creatures among the crisp dry phrynia +leaves overhead. The rats and mice, snakes, beetles, and crickets are +moving. From a slung cot I have observed, by candle-light, the avengers +advancing over the floor of my house, scaling the walls, searching the +recesses of every layer of leaves, skirmishing among the nooks and +crannies, mouse-holes, and cracks; heard moaning and crying of little +blind mice, and terrified squealing of motherly and paternal rats, and +hailed them as a blessing, encouraging them along on their career of +destruction, until presently some perverse and undisciplined tribes would +drop from the roof on my cot, and convert their well-wisher into a +vindictive enemy, who, in his rage, would call aloud for hot glowing +embers and roast them alive by thousands, until the air was heavy with +the odour of frizzling and frying ants. Bad luck to them! + +While digging in the stiff yellow clay, to form the ditch, we have come +across burnt wood in the hard compacted material, 5 feet below the +surface of the humus. Yet there were stately trees, 100, 150, and 200 +years old, above. The site was level, and apparently undisturbed. + +One of our surprises has been the immunity we have enjoyed from +snake-bites in tropical Africa. The continent swarms with reptiles of all +kinds, from the silvery and blind typhlops to the huge python; but while +travelling and navigating over 24,000 miles of land and water in Africa, +only two men have been wounded, neither of which cases proved mortal. But +the instant we begin clearing a forest, or hoeing a field or a roadway, +we begin to realize the dangers we have escaped. During the work of +clearing the prostrate logs, and rooting out the bushy undergrowth and +preparing for cultivation, we came across many specimens, some remarkably +beautiful. Coiled in the bushes, green as a tender young wheat-blade, +were the slender whip-snakes, which dropped down among the men when the +bill-hook was applied to destroy their perches. Various species of the +Dendrophis, of brilliant colouring, also were revealed. Three bloated +puff-adders, gorgeous in their complicated system of decorations, were +killed; four horned snakes crept out of their holes to attack and be +slain; one of the Lycodontidæ, curious for its long fangs, was roasted +out of its hiding-place, while several little, blind, blunt-headed, +silvery snakes, not much larger than earthworms, were turned up by the +hoes. Tortoises were very common, and the mephitis left frequent traces +of his existence. + +While kites, the most daring of their tribe, soared above every clearing +in the forest, we never met a single vulture until we reached the +grass-land. A few white-collared eagles now and then made their +appearance, but there were parrots innumerable. From grey dawn to dusk +these birds always and everywhere made their presence known. A few herons +occasionally rested on trees in the clearing towards evening. They were +probably fatigued with their flight from the Nyanza. The black ibis and +wagtails were our constant companions in the wilds. Trees with weaver +birds and their nests were a feature near every forest village. The +neighbourhood, and finally our plantations, even within a dozen yards of +the fort, were visited by troops of elephants. Buffalo and wild-hog +tracks were common, but we were not naturalists. None of us had leisure, +and probably but little taste, for collection of insects, butterflies, +and birds. To us an animal or a bird was something to eat, but with all +our efforts we seldom obtained anything. We only noted what happened to +catch our eyes or cross our track. We had too many anxieties to be +interested in anything save what was connected with them. If a native or +a Zanzibari picked up a brilliant longicorn beetle or hawk-moth, or fine +butterfly, or a huge mantis, or brought birds' eggs, or a rare flower, a +lily or an orchid, a snake or a tortoise, my mind wandered to my own +special business, even while gazing at and approving the find. My family +was altogether too large to permit frivolity; not an hour passed but my +fancies fled after Stairs at Ipoto; or my thoughts were filled with +visions of Barttelot and Jameson struggling through the forest, +overwhelmed with their gigantic task, or they dwelt upon the mystery +surrounding the Pasha, or upon the vicious dwarfs and the murderous +Balessé and their doings, or upon the necessities of providing, day after +day, food and meat for the present, as well as for future months. + +On the 7th of February the sounding line was stretched out to measure out +the approaches to the gates of the fort, and most of the garrison were +employed for several days in cutting broad, straight roads, east and +west, for quick travel and easy defence. Mighty logs were cut through and +rolled aside, the roads were cleaned, so that a mouse might be detected +crossing them at 200 yards off, a bridge was built across the stream west +of the fort, by which the scouts were enabled to proceed from each of the +plantations in a short time, by night or by day. It may well be imagined +what effect this flood of light had upon the crafty natives, who +preferred burrowing in dark shades, and creep under the lee of monster +logs, furtively spying out opportunities for attack. They felt that they +could not cross the road at any point without becoming a target for a +sentry's rifle, or their tracks would betray them to the patrols. + +On the next morning we raised a flag-staff 50 feet high, and as the +Egyptian flag was hoisted up, the Soudanese were permitted to salute it +with twenty-one rounds. + +We had scarcely finished the little ceremony when a shot was fired at the +end of the western road, the sentry at the tower commanding it sang out, +"Sail ho," and we knew the caravan was coming in from Ipoto. + +Surgeon Parke was the first to arrive, looking wonderfully well, but +Nelson, who suffered from sore feet, and entered the fort an hour later, +was prematurely old, with pinched and drawn features, with the bent back +and feeble legs befitting an octogenarian. + +The following account will speak for itself, and will prove that the stay +of these officers at the Manyuema village required greater strength of +mind and a moral courage greater than was needed by us during our stormy +advance across the grass-land. They were not inspired by energising +motives to sustain or encourage them in their hour of suffering from +physical prostration, sickness, and the wearying life they led among +those fearful people, the Manyuema, whereas we had been borne up by the +novelties of new scenes, the constant high pitch of excitement, the +passion of travel and strife. They suffered from the want of the +necessaries of life day after day, while we revelled in abundance, and +the greatest difficulty of all was to bear all these sufferings inflicted +upon them by Ismailia, Khamis, and Sangarameni, who were slaves of +Kilonga-Longa, who was the slave of Abed bin Salim, of Zanzibar, sweetly +and pleasantly. + +_Report of Surgeon_ T. H. Parke, _Army Medical Department, in medical_ + _charge of E. P. R. Expedition._ + + Fort Bodo, _8 February, 1888_. + + Sir,--I have the honour to forward this report for your + information. In compliance with your orders dated 24th October, + 1887, I remained at the Manyuema Camp to take charge of invalids + and impedimenta left there on your departure, 28th October, up to + the time the relief party arrived, 25th January, 1888. Of those + invalids whom you left at camp, seven were sufficiently recovered + to send on with Captain Jephson, 7th November; those remaining were + increased in number by the arrival of Captain Nelson, his two boys, + and two men, 3rd November; also headman Umari and nine men, who + were found in a starving condition in the bush by Kilonga-Longa, + and brought to camp by him 9th January; this made a total of one + sick officer and thirty-nine invalids remaining in camp; of this + number Captain Nelson and sixteen men left with the relief party. + Twelve men were away on a journey looking for food, therefore + remain at Manyuema Camp, and eleven deaths occurred; this extremely + high mortality will no doubt astonish you, especially as it was + entirely due to starvation, except in two instances only. From the + time you left the Manyuema Camp until our departure, 26th January, + the chiefs gave little or no food to either officers or men; those + men who were sufficiently strong to do a good day's work, sometimes + got as many as ten heads of corn (Indian) per man, but as the + working men were not constantly employed, their average ration of + corn was about three per day; those invalids unable to work, of + whom there were many, received no food from the chiefs, and were + therefore obliged to exist on herbs. Remembering the wretched and + debilitated condition of all these men, both from privation and + disease, you will readily understand that the heartless treatment + of the Manyuema chiefs was sufficient to cause even a much greater + mortality. + + The men were badly housed, and their scanty clothing consisted of + about half a yard of native bark-cloth, as they sold their own + clothes for food; they experienced not only the horrors of + starvation, but were cruelly and brutally treated by the Manyuema, + who drove them to commit theft by withholding food, and then scored + their backs with rods, and in one case speared a man to death + (Asmani bin Hassan) for stealing. + + Captain Nelson arrived in a very weak condition, requiring good + food and careful treatment. He visited the chiefs, and made them + handsome presents of articles costing about £75, with a view to win + their sympathy; however, they continued to give little or no food + to officers or men: they said that no arrangement had been made for + provisioning Captain Nelson, and any food they sent to me was + entirely of their own generosity, as no arrangement had been made + by you. I asked them to let me see the written agreement between + you and them, which they did; also another document written in + Arabic characters, which I could not read. In their agreement with + you I saw that they had promised to provision the officers and men + whom you would leave. I appealed to them, and remonstrated with + them, nevertheless they supplied less and less food, until finally + they refused to give any on the plea that they had none. The height + of this generosity would be reached when they would send two or + three cups of Indian meal to feed Captain Nelson, myself and the + boys, until the next donation would turn up in six or seven days + afterwards. During the last seven weeks we did not receive any food + whatever from the chiefs. Owing to their refusal to give us food, + we were obliged first to sell our own clothes, and eight rifles + belonging to the Expedition to provide ourselves and boys with + food. I repeatedly reminded Ismaili (chief) of the conversation he + had with you in your tent the night before you left the camp, when + he promised to look after and care for the officers and men whom + you left in camp. Although the chiefs had no food to supply + according to their agreement, yet they had always plenty to sell, + their object being to compel us to sell the arms and ammunition for + food. I send you a complete list of effects left in my charge by + Captain Jephson, 7th November, all of which were correct when the + relief party arrived, with the following exceptions, viz.:--two + boxes Remington ammunition, and one rifle, which were stolen by a + Zanzibari (Saraboko), and, I believe, sold to the Manyuema chiefs. + + Several attempts were made to steal the arms, boxes, &c.; on the + night of November 7th, the hut in which the baggage was stored was + set on fire with a view to taking everything with a rush in the + confusion, caused by the fire: however, their dream was frustrated, + as Captain Nelson, who was ever awake saw the blaze, and gave the + alarm just in time for ourselves and our boys to put out the fire + before it got to the baggage. I then had the tents pitched + according to your directions, not being able to do so earlier, as I + had no assistance. All the rifles, ammunition, boxes, &c., were + packed in the tents, one of which was occupied by Captain Nelson, + and the other by myself. Every effort was made to prevent things + being stolen; nevertheless, even Captain Nelson's blankets were + taken by a thief who got under the tent from behind. On another + occasion I heard a noise at my tent-door, and, jumping out of bed + quickly, I found a box of ammunition ten yards off, which had just + been taken out of my tent. The thief escaped in the dark. + + On the night of January 9th, I heard a noise outside my tent, and, + suspecting a thief, I crept out noiselessly to the back, where I + caught "Camaroni," a Zanzibari, in the act of stealing a rifle + through a hole which he had cut in the tent for this offence. Life + at the Manyuema Camp was almost intolerable. Apart from + starvation, the people, their manner and surroundings, were of the + lowest order, and, owing to the mounds of fecal matter and + decomposing vegetation which were allowed to collect on the paths + and close to their dwellings, the place was a hotbed of disease. + Captain Nelson was confined to his bed from sickness for over two + months, and I got blood-poisoning, followed by erysipelas, which + kept me in bed for five weeks. During our illness the chiefs paid + us frequent visits, but always with a view to covet something which + they saw in our tents. Their avarice was unbounded, and they made + agreements one day only to be broken the next. After the arrival of + Kilonga-Longa and his force of about 400, including women, + children, and slaves, food became really scarce, therefore the + Manyuema were obliged to send out large caravans to bring in food. + Twelve Zanzibaris who are absent accompanied these caravans in + search of food, and had not returned when I left the camp with the + relief party. Starvation was so great just before we left that the + native slaves seized one of their comrades, who had gone some + distance from the camp to draw water, cut him in pieces, and ate + him. + + In conclusion, I may mention that Captain Nelson and myself did + everything we could to preserve a good feeling with the Manyuema + chiefs and people, and we parted on friendly terms. + + T. H. Parke. + (_Surgeon A. M. D._) + + _To_ H. M. Stanley, Esq., + _Commanding E. P. R. Expedition_. + +The contrast between the sadly-worn men who reached us from that hot-bed +of suffering at Ipoto and our beautifully sleek and glossy men who had +reached the Albert was most marked. Their flesh was wasted, their muscles +had become shrivelled, their sinews were shrunk, and their distinctive +and peculiar individualities seemed to have altogether vanished until it +had become a difficult matter to recognise them. + +On the 12th of February Lieutenant Stairs and his column appeared with +every section of the boat in good order. He had been absent twenty-five +days, and his mission had been performed with a sacred regard to his +instructions and without a single flaw. + +The evening of that date was remarkable for a discussion between the +headmen and ourselves as to our future steps. I discovered that all the +headmen were unanimous for proceeding to the Nyanza to launch the boat +and search for news of Emin. My desire was equally great to obtain news +of the Pasha; nevertheless, I think very little was required to induce me +to abandon the search for the Pasha to obtain news of Major Barttelot, +but officers and men were alike unanimous in their demand that we should +resolve the fate of Emin Pasha. A compromise was finally effected. It was +determined that couriers should be sent with our letters to Major +Barttelot, with a map of our route and such remarks as would be of +practical use to him. It was also decided that Lieutenant Stairs, after +two days' rest, should escort these couriers as far as Ugarrowwa's, and +see them safely across the river, and that on returning he should escort +the convalescents, who, too feeble to march, had been housed in that +settlement on the 18th September; that in order that Lieutenant Stairs +should "participate in the honour of being present at the relief of Emin +Pasha," we should wait for him until the 25th of March. Meantime we +should continue the work of enlarging our domain for corn and bean +planting, to prevent any scarcity of food while engaged in the forest. + +The distance between Fort Bodo and Ipoto was seventy-nine miles,[K] or +158 miles the round journey, which had occupied Lieutenant Stairs +twenty-five days, at the average of six and one-third miles per day, but +he had reached Ipoto within seven days, and Jephson and Uledi had +accomplished the distance in the same time, that is, at an average rate +of travel of a little over eleven miles per day. Now, as Ugarrowwa was +104 miles beyond Ipoto, or 183 miles from Fort Bodo, it was estimated +that the journey of 366 miles which Stairs was now about to undertake +might be performed within thirty-four days, or at the rate of ten and +three quarter miles per day. This would be magnificent travelling, +especially in the forest, but as various circumstances might protract the +period, it was agreed that if we moved towards the Nyanza on the 25th +March, and as the carriage of the boat would necessitate short stages, we +should travel slowly, that he might have the opportunity of overtaking +us. + +On the morning of the 16th February, at muster, it was proclaimed that +twenty first-class volunteers were required to convey our letters to +Major Barttelot, at £10 reward for each man if they succeeded in reaching +him, because, said I, "You have all combined to demand that we should +find the Pasha first. It is well. But I feel as anxious about the Major +as I do about the Pasha. We must find both. You who remember what we +suffered must feel what the Major and his friends feel, in those horrible +stretches of unpeopled woods, having no idea where they are going or what +is waiting for them. You know how grateful we should have been, had we +met anybody who could have warned us of the hunger and misery we should +meet. Therefore every man who volunteers must be acknowledged as the +fittest for this noble work by everyone here. Master Stairs, whom you all +know as a man who is never tired, and never says 'enough' when there is +something to be done, will show you the road as far as Ugarrowwa's, he +will see that you are ferried over with food, and cartridges sufficient, +and when you leave, you must race along our old road, which you cannot +lose, like men running for a big prize. These letters must be put into +the hands of the Major, that he and your brothers may be saved. Where are +these fifty dollar men?" + +Of course at such times the Zanzibaris are easily roused to enthusiasm, +and every man considers himself a hero. Over fifty men came to the front +challenging any one to say aught against their manliness or courage, but +they had to undergo a searching criticism and bantering review from their +fellows and officers, their courage, powers of endurance, activity, +dispositions, strength, soundness of mind and body were questioned, but +at last twenty men satisfactory to Commander and people received rations, +and they were specially enrolled among the men of merit who for +distinguished service were to be rewarded with varying sums of money, in +addition to their pay, on reaching Zanzibar. Lieutenant Stairs left for +Ipoto and Ugarrowwa's at 9 o'clock with fowls, goats, corn, and plantain +flour rations for the long journey. + +On the 18th my left arm, which had been very painful for four days +previously, developed a large glandular swelling, which our surgeon said +would prove to be an abscess. + +[Illustration: _Stanford's Geographical Estab._] + +The following is taken from my diary:-- + +_February 19th to March 13th_.--On Sunday night, the 19th, I was attacked +with inflammation of the stomach, which has been called by Dr. Parke +sub-acute gastritis, of so severe a character that during the first week +I had only a confused recollection of great pain in the arm and stomach, +and general uselessness. Dr. Parke has been most assiduous in his +application to my needs, and gentle as a woman in his ministrations. For +once in my life every soul around me was at my service, and I found +myself an object of universal solicitude night and day. My faithful +friends, Parke and Jephson, waited, and watched, and served. Poor Nelson +was himself a victim to ill-health, fevers, debility, eruptions and +ulcers, the effects of his terrible agony at Starvation Camp, but he +would come, sometimes tottering weakly, to express his sympathy. In the +afternoons the Doctor would permit the headmen to visit me, to convey to +the anxious Zanzibaris their personal opinions and views of my case. +During most of these twenty-three days I have been under the influence of +morphia, and the time has passed in unconsciousness. But I am now slowly +recovering. Two days ago the abscess, which had become very large, was +pierced, and I am relieved of that pain. Meanwhile my daily diet has +consisted of a pint of milk--thanks to the Balegga cow--mixed with water. +I am therefore so feeble as to be scarcely able to move. + +During my illness I have to regret the loss of two good men, Sarmini and +Kamwaiya, who have been killed with arrows, and one of the headmen has +been severely wounded. This occurred during a patrolling tour as far as +the Ihuru, fourteen geographical miles due north from here. Uledi and a +party has discovered the haunts of the dwarfs and taller aborigines who +rob our plantain groves to be at Alessé and Nderi, fourteen geographical +miles east. + +I find that Uledi has captured a Queen of the Pigmies, who is the wife of +the Chief of Indékaru. She was brought in to be seen by me with three +rings of polished iron around her neck, the ends of which were coiled +like a watch spring. Three iron rings were suspended to each ear. She is +of a light brown complexion, with broad round face, large eyes, and small +but full lips. She had a quiet modest demeanour, though her dress was but +a narrow fork clout of bark cloth. Her height is about four feet four +inches, and her age may be nineteen or twenty. I notice when her arms are +held against the light, a whity-brown fell on them. Her skin has not that +silky smoothness of touch common to the Zanzibaris, but altogether she is +a very pleasing little creature. + +[Illustration: THE QUEEN OF THE DWARFS.] + +_March 13th to April 1st_.--By the 25th I was well enough to be able to +move about a few hundred yards at a time. My arm was still stiff and I +was exceedingly feeble. Nelson has recovered somewhat from his successive +fits of illness. During my convalescence I have been supported each +afternoon to the centre of a lofty colonnade of trees, through which our +road to the Nyanza leads, where in an easy chair I have passed hours of +reading and drowsing. + +It has been a daily delight while helped to my leafy arcade to observe +the rapid change in the growth of the corn in the fields, and to see how +we have been encroaching upon the forest. Our cultivable area, after +being cleaned, hoed, and planted, was not long left with its bare brown +face naked. On a certain day it became green with the young corn blades, +it had sprouted by thousands as though at the word of command. Only +yesterday, as it were, we smiled to see the tender white stalk arched for +a spring under a slowly rising clod, a now the clods have been brushed +aside, the arched stalks have sprung upright, and the virgin plants have +unfolded their tender green crests. Day by day it has been a wonder how +the corn has thriven and grown, with what vigour the stalks have +thickened, enlarged in leaf, and deepened in green. Side by side in due +rank and order they have risen, the blades have extended towards one +another in loving embrace, until the whole has become a solid square +field of corn, the murmur of which is like the distant wash of a languid +sea over a pebbly beach. + +This is the music to which I listen devoutly, while my medical friend +sits not far off on the watch, and sentries stand still at each end of +the avenue on guard. A gentle breeze blows over the forest and breathes +upon the corn, causing a universal shiver and motion throughout, and I +sit watching the corn tops sway and nod, and salute each other, with the +beautiful grace and sweet undertones of many wavelets, until drowsiness +overcomes me and seals my senses, and sleep bears me to the region of +fantasy. As the sun appears low in the west, and lights the underwood +horizontally with mellow light, my kind doctor assists me to my feet and +props me, as I wend to the Fort, my corn with dancing motion and waving +grace bidding me farewell. + +In the warm teeming soil the corn has grown apace until it has reached a +prodigious height, tall as the underwood of the forest. Only a few weeks +ago I searched amid the clods for a sign of sprouting; a little later and +I might still have seen a scampering mouse; a few days ago it was breast +high; to-day I look up and I can scarcely touch the point of a +rapier-like blade with a five-foot staff, and a troop of elephants might +stand underneath undetected. It has already flowered; the ears, great and +swelling, lying snug in their manifold sheaths, give promise of an +abundant harvest, and I glow with pleasure at the thought that, while +absent, there need be no anxiety about the future. + +I am resolved to-morrow to make a move towards the Nyanza with the boat. +This is the forty-sixth day of Stairs' absence. I had sent twenty +couriers--one of whom returned later--to Major Barttelot. Stairs and his +personal attendants numbered seven. I shall leave forty-nine in fort; +inclusive of Nelson there will be 126 men left to escort the boat to the +Nyanza. Total, 201 of advance column remaining out of 389, exclusive of +such convalescents as may be obtained at Ugarrowwa's. + +Tippu-Tib has evidently been faithless, and the Major is therefore +working the double stages, some hundreds of miles behind; the nineteen +couriers are speeding towards him, and are probably opposite the Nepoko +at this date, and Stairs has found so many men yet crippled with ulcers +that he is unable to travel fast. With 126 men I attempt the relief of +Emin Pasha the second time. The garrison consists of all those who suffer +from debility, anæmia--who were fellow-sufferers with Nelson at +Starvation Camp--and leg sores, some of which are perfectly incurable. + +The labour performed about the fort is extensive. Nelson has an +impregnable place. The fields of corn and beans are thriving, and of the +latter I have enjoyed a first dish to-day. The plantain groves appear to +be inexhaustible. + +Our broad roads extend about half a mile each way. Ten scouts patrol the +plantations every morning, that the mischievous pigmies may not destroy +the supplies of the garrison, and that no sudden onsets of natives may be +made upon the field hands while at work. + +Surgeon Parke accompanies us to the Nyanza to-morrow according to his own +earnest request. Though his place is in the fort with the invalids, there +are none who require greater attention than can be given by Captain +Nelson through his boys, who have been instructed in the art of bathing +the sores with lotions of carbolic acid and water. + +[Illustration: WITHIN FORT BODO.] + +Our men on the Sundays have amused themselves with performing military +evolutions after the method taught by General Matthews at Zanzibar. They +are such capital mimics that his very voice and gesture have been +faithfully imitated. + +Life at Fort Bodo, on the whole, has not been unpleasant except for +Captain Nelson and myself. It is true we have fretted and never been +free from anxiety respecting the whereabouts and fate of our friends. We +have also been anxious to depart and be doing some thing towards +terminating our labours, but circumstances which we cannot control rise +constantly to thwart our aims. We have therefore striven to employ every +leisure hour towards providing unstinted supplies of food, in the hope +that fortune will be good enough veer round once in our favour, and bring +Barttelot and our friends Jameson, Ward, Troup, and Bonny, with their +little army of men, to Fort Bodo before our second return from the +Nyanza. + +----- + [K] Seventy-nine miles one way, and eighty-four miles by + another way. + + + + +CHAPTER XIV. + +TO THE ALBERT NYANZA A SECOND TIME. + + + Difficulties with the steel boat--African forest craft--Splendid + capture of pigmies, and description of the same--We cross the Ituri + river--Dr. Parke's delight on leaving the forest--Camp at + Bessé--Zanzibari wit--At Nzera-Kum-hill once more--Intercourse with + the natives--"Malleju," or the "Bearded One," being first news of + Emin--Visit from chief Mazamboni and his followers--Jephson goes + through the form of friendship with Mazamboni--The medicine men, + Nestor and Murabo--The tribes of the Congo--Visit from chief + Gavira--A Mhuma chief--The Bavira and Wahuma races--The varying + African features--Friendship with Mpinga--Gavira and the + looking-glass--Exposed Uzanza--We reach Kavalli--The chief produces + "Malleju's" letter--Emin's letter--Jephson and Parke convey the + steel boat to the lake--Copy of letter sent by me to Emin through + Jephson--Friendly visits from natives. + +On the 2nd day of April, 1888, after a drizzly rain had ceased to fall, +we filed out at noon with a view to attempt a second time to find the +Pasha, or to penetrate the silence around him. We had now our steel boat +in twelve sections, and the stem and stern being rather beamy we +discovered very soon that a good deal of cutting with axes and bill-hooks +was required to permit them to pass between the trees. The caravan in +single file, laden with boxes, bales, and baggage, would find no +difficulty; the narrower sections two feet wide passed through without +trouble, but the plough-shaped stem and stern pieces soon became jammed +between two colossal trees which compelled a retreat and a detour through +the bush, and this could not be effected without clearing a passage. It +was soon evident that our second trip to the Nyanza through the forest +would consume some days. + +The advance guard scanning the track, and fully lessoned in all the +crooked ways and wiles of the pigmies and aborigines, picked up many a +cleverly-hidden skewer from the path. At some points they were freely +planted under an odd leaf or two of phrynium, or at the base of a log, +over which, as over a stile, a wayfarer might stride and plant his foot +deep into a barbed skewer well smeared with dark poison. But we were too +learned now in the art of African forestcraft, and the natives were not +so skilled in the invention of expedients as to produce new styles of +molestation and annoyance. + +The dwarfs' village at the crossing was our next resting-place, and +Indémwani was reached on the 4th. The next day we moved to another +dwarfs' village, and in the neighbouring plantain grove Saat Tato and a +few friends, while collecting a few of the fruit, made a splendid capture +of pigmies. We had four women and a boy, and in them I saw two distinct +types. One evidently belonged to that same race described as the Akka, +with small, cunning, monkey eyes, close, and deeply set. The four others +possessed large, round eyes, full and prominent, broad round foreheads +and round faces, small hands and feet, with slight prognathy of jaws, +figures well formed, though diminutive, and of a bricky complexion. +"Partial roast coffee," "chocolate," "cocoa," and "_café au lait_" are +terms that do not describe the colour correctly, but the common red clay +brick when half baked would correspond best in colour to that of the +complexion of these little people. Saat Tato reported that there were +about twenty of them stealing plantains which belonged to the natives of +Indepuya, who were probably deterred from defending their property by the +rumour of our presence in the woods. The monkey-eyed woman had a +remarkable pair of mischievous orbs, protruding lips overhanging her +chin, a prominent abdomen, narrow, flat chest, sloping shoulders, long +arms, feet turned greatly inwards and very short lower legs, as being +fitly characteristic of the link long sought between the average modern +humanity and its Darwinian progenitors, and certainly deserving of being +classed as an extremely low, degraded, almost a bestial type of a human +being. One of the others was a woman evidently a mother, though she could +not have seen her seventeenth year. No fault could be found in the +proportion of any one member; her complexion was bright and healthy; her +eyes were brilliant, round, and large; her upper lip had the peculiar cut +of that of the Wambutti noticeable in the woman at Ugarrowwas, and the +chief's wife of Indékaru, which is the upper edge curving upward with a +sharp angle and dropping perpendicularly, resembling greatly a clean up +and down cut with a curl up of the skin as though it had contracted +somewhat. I believe this to be as marked a feature of the Wambutti as the +full nether lip is said to be characteristic of the Austrian. The colour +of the lips was pinkish. The hands were small, fingers delicate and long, +but skinny and puckered, the feet measured seven inches and her height +was four feet four inches. + +So perfect were the proportions of this girl-mother that she appeared at +first to be but an undersized woman, her low stature being but the result +of premature sexual intercourse or some other accidental circumstance, +but when we placed some of our Zanzibar boys of fifteen and sixteen years +old by her side, and finally placed a woman of the agricultural +aborigines near her, it was clear to everyone that these small creatures +were a distinct race. + +Three hours beyond this great Mbutti village we reached Barya-Kunya amid +a drizzly rain. + +On the 8th we reached Indepessu, and two days later we travelled from the +base of Pisgah, along an easterly path, a new track which led us through +the little villages of Mandé to the Ituri river. The natives had all fled +from Mandé and the slopes of Pisgah across the river with their movable +property, and the men were awaiting events on the left bank, confident +that they were beyond reach. As we emerged into view on the right bank I +was quite struck with the light brown mass the warriors made against the +blackish green of the vegetation behind them. Had they been of the colour +of the Zanzibaris they would have formed an almost black mass, but they +resembled in colour the ochreous clay banks of this river. They shot a +few arrows amongst us across the 150 yards wide stream; some fell short +and others hurtled harmlessly by us several yards. In our turn we replied +and a general scamper occurred. Ninety minutes later the Expedition was +across the Ituri by means of the boat. The vanguard picked up a ten-pound +packet of clean native salt which had been dropped by the natives in +their flight. Salt was a condiment greatly needed, and we were greatly +rejoiced at the prize. We were now in the territory of the Bakuba, near +the clearing of Kande-koré, which was one of the richest clearings in the +forest of the Upper Congo basin. On the edge of the bank we were 3,000 +feet above the sea. + +Three-and-a-half hours' march from the Ituri, we issued out of the +forest, and again the change from perpetual twilight to brilliant +sunlight, and a blue sky was astonishing, and we all smiled to witness +its effects on the nerves of our gentle friend and companion, the first +son of Erin who had ever viewed the grass lands of these regions. This +was the 289th day of Dr. Parke's forest life, and the effect of this +sudden emergence out of the doleful shades in view of this enlarged view +from the green earth to the shining and glowing concave of Heaven caused +him to quiver with delight. Deep draughts of champagne could not have +painted his cheeks with a deeper hue than did this exhilarating prospect +which now met him. + +On the road just before leaving the bush we passed a place where an +elephant spear had fallen to the ground, and buried itself so deep that +three men were unable to heave it up. Such a force, we argued, would have +slain an elephant on the instant. + +While sketching Pisgah Mountain in the afternoon from our first camp in +the pasture land, I observed a cloud approaching it from the N.W., and +all the forest beyond was shaded by its deep shadows, while the rolling +plains still basked in hot sunshine. Presently another cloud from the +S.E. appeared round the southern extremity of Mazamboni's range, and as +it advanced, spread over the blue sky, and became merged with the cloud +over the forest, and then rain fell. + +At an altitude of 3,200 feet above the sea the village of Bessé is +situated, seven hours' march from the Ituri. Though it was yet early +forenoon we camped, the abundance of good ripe bananas, corn, fowls, +sugar-cane, and banana wine being very tempting, and the distance to +other villages east being unknown. Quite an active skirmish soon occurred +while we were engaged making ready our quarters. Fetteh, the sole +interpreter to the tribes of the plains, was grievously wounded over the +stomach. The Babessé attempted various means to molest us as the long +grass favoured them, but by posting sharpshooters in the native lookouts +in the trees the knowledge that their tactics were supervised soon +demoralised them. + +We had some speech by means of a native of Uganda with one of these +natives, who among his remarks said, "We are quite assured that you black +men are creatures like ourselves, but what of those white chiefs of +yours? Whence do they come?" + +"Oh," our man replied, with wonderful facility for fraudful speech, +"their faces change with the birth of each moon, when the moon is getting +full their colour is dark like our own. They are different from us, as +they came from above originally." + +"Ah, true, it must be so," responded the astonished native, as he brought +his hand up to his mouth from politeness, to cover the mouth that +expanded with surprise. + +The more we understand the language of these natives, the more we are +struck with the identity of a common origin. How could such as these +people have ever heard of such a thing as wit. I heard one native say to +a Zanzibari who had met more than his match when he burst out so +impatiently at one who had staggered against him, + +"Such a fool as thou wast surely never seen elsewhere?" + +To which the native replied, with a benevolent smile, + +"Ay, it is my lord, who is the sole possessor of wisdom." + +"Ah, but you are wickedness itself" (personified). + +"I must not deny it, for all goodness is with thee." + +It is a common reply among a certain class of white folks when one is +accused of being naughty, to reply to the accuser that he is a gentleman, +but it must be admitted that the African reply is not inferior in +politeness. + +A little east of Bessé we lost the native track, and were obliged to +strike across country, steering straight for Undussuma Peak which now +began to lift itself into view, over the swells of grass-land that spread +in great waves towards its foot. The sun was fearfully hot, and as the +march was mainly through tall grass, we were greatly fatigued. In the +afternoon we reached a wooded hollow near a pellucid cool stream, which +had its birthplace somewhere among the slopes of Undussuma Range now +distant about five miles. + +On the 14th, after a march of six hours, we were camped on the spur of +Nzera-Kum-hill, and before us was the same scene which on the 10th and +11th of December witnessed our struggles for mastery with Mazamboni and +his tribe. So far our experiences on this journey were very different. We +saw no leaping exulting warriors, nor heard a single menace or war-cry; +but, as we intended to halt here a day, it was necessary to know what to +expect, and we despatched our Mganda interpreter to hail the natives, who +were seated afar off on the hilltops looking down upon us. At 5 P.M. +after several patient efforts, they were induced to descend and approach, +and they finally entered our camp. The process of establishing a +friendship then was easy. We could look into one another's faces, and +read as in a book what each thought of the other. We mutually exchanged +views, wherein they learned that we only needed a free passage to the +Lake unmolested, that we had not appeared as enemies, but strangers +seeking a halting-place for the night, to pursue our road the next day +without disturbance. They pleaded, as an excuse for their former +behaviour, that they were assured we were Wara-Sura (soldiers of Kabba +Rega) who periodically visited their country, devastated their land, and +carried off their cattle. + +When we were both convinced that friendship was possible, that our former +misunderstanding should not interfere with our future relations, they +heard the mystery of our presence explained, that we were only travelling +to discover a white chief, who years ago was reported to be somewhere +near the sea of Unyoro. Had they ever heard of such a man? + +They answered eagerly, "About two moons after you passed us--when you +came from the Nyanza--a white man called '_Malleju_,' or the _Bearded +One_, reached Katonza's in a big canoe, all of iron. + +"Mother! however could she float; and in the middle of it there rose a +tall black tree, and out of it came smoke and sparks of fire, and there +were many many strange people aboard, and there were goats running about +as in a village square, and fowls in boxes with bars, and we heard the +cocks crow as merrily as they do among our millet. _Malleju_ with a deep +deep voice asked about you--his brother? What Katonza said to him we do +not know, but _Malleju_ went away in the big iron canoe, which sent as +much smoke up into the air as though she was on fire. Have no doubt you +will find him soon; Mazamboni shall send his runners to the Lake, and by +to-morrow's sunset Katonza shall be told of the arrival of _Malleju's_ +brother." + +This was the first news we had heard of Emin Pasha, and it was with the +view of this news spreading abroad, and for preparing the natives for the +irruption of strangers out of the unknown west, that I had sent couriers +from Zanzibar in February, 1887. Had Emin, who expected us December 15th, +but taken the trouble to have sent his steamers a nine-hours' steaming +distance from his station of Mswa, we should have met with his people +December 14th, been spared five days' fighting, a four months' loss of +time, and on or about the 15th of March I should have been within the +palisades of Yambuya in time to save Barttelot from his assassin, +Jameson from his fatal fever attack, Troup from the necessity of being +invalided home, Ward from his wholly useless mission to St. Paul de +Loanda, and Mr. Bonny from days of distress at Banalya. + +The next day was a severe one for me. All the talking was levelled at me, +and I was imprisoned in my chair from dawn to dusk by crowds of Bavira +agriculturists and Wahuma shepherds and herdsmen, chiefs and slaves, +princes and peasants, warriors and women. It was impolitic to stir from +the close circle which the combined oligarchy and democracy of Undussuma +had formed around me. What refreshments were taken were handed to me over +the heads of nobles and serfs five deep. My chair was in the centre, +three umbrella bearers relieved one another--the sun ran his course from +east to west; it glowed at noon hours with the intense heat known in +torrid deserts, from three to five it scorched my back, then it became +cooler, but until the circles broke and were dissolved by the approaching +cold accompanying the dusk, I was a martyr to the cause of human +brotherhood. + +At a very early hour Mazamboni appeared outside of the zeriba with an +imposing retinue of followers. He was escorted to the middle of the camp +with every mark of respect, officers gracefully bowing their welcome, +Zanzibaris and Soudanese, who had chased him and his legions over the +hills in December, looking as innocent as though they had never tasted +meat and smiling a summer greeting. Our best mats were spread under a +sickly dwarf tree for the convenience of the august guest, ivory horns +gave forth mellow blares, reminding me of the imperial court of the +Ramessean autocrat of Uganda, Usoga, and the island archipelagoes of the +Victorian Sea. Nothing was omitted that experience with a thousand chiefs +of dark Africa had taught me was necessary for lighting up a swarthy face +with humour, pleasure, content, and perfect trust. Mazamboni accepted +every attention as his by right Divine, but no smile or word greeted us. +Was the man deaf and dumb? No; he spoke briefly and low to his +sub-chiefs, and his satellites roared with bull voices, as though I +needed an auricular trumpet to hear, and the sounds stunned me as though +they were rung with a trip-hammer. + +"My friends," said I, "my head will crack if you go on thus; besides, you +know wisdom is precious. Why should the herd hear State policy?" + +"Ah, truly!" said one sage with a beard as white as the father of the +Commons ought to have. Nestor lowered his voice, and garrulously +rehearsed the history of the land, described the effect created upon it +by the column's approach in December, the hasty councils that were held, +and the rash resolution they had adopted, confessing that when they heard +there were white men with the strangers they suspected they were wrong in +continuing their hostile attitude, but the youthful warriors had been too +impetuous and overruled the cautious counsels of the ancients of their +tribe; that when they had seen us return from the Nyanza and depart in +peace towards the forest, they then knew that the Wara-Sura, as we were +believed to be, would never have returned so soon from their own Lake, +but would have crossed the Semliki to their own country, and then, when +they had heard of _Malleju_, the white chief of the iron canoe, was +seeking for us, they were convinced they had been all wrong. "But never +mind," said we, "the strangers will return from the Kivira (forest), and +we shall make it up with them. If they seek our friendship they shall +have it, and Mazamboni's blood shall mingle with that of their chief; and +we shall be one people, and lo! you have come, and the dreams of our wise +men have become real facts. Mazamboni sits as a brother by the side of +the white chief; let us see the blood mingle, and never a cloud shall +come between you while you are in the land; the belongings of Mazamboni +are yours, his warriors, wives, children, the land and all that stands on +the face of it are yours. Have I said well, oh, warriors?" + +"Well and truly you have spoken," murmured the circles. + +"Shall Mazamboni be a son of 'Bula Matari?'" + +"He shall." + +"Shall there be true peace between us and the strangers?" + +"Yea," came in an emotional shout from the mass. + +Then the mutual right hands of my son, Mr. Jephson, who volunteered to be +sacrificed, were clasped crosswise over the crossed knees, the native +Professor of Medicine made a slight incision in his arm until the red +blood dyed it. My Professor of Secret Ritualism caused the dark red blood +of Mazamboni to well out of the vein, and as the liquid of life flowed +and dropped over the knees, the incantations were commenced by the sage +with the white beard, and as he shook the pebbles in the magic gourd at +the range of the peak opposite, and at the horse-shoe range yonder in the +plains, and to eastward and westward of the valley, he delivered his +terrible curses from the summit of Nzera-Kum, and all men listened unto +him with open lips:-- + +"Cursed is he who breaks his plighted vow. + +"Cursed is he who nourisheth secret hate. + +"Cursed is he who turneth his back against his friend. + +"Cursed is he who in the day of war denieth his brother. + +"Cursed is he who deviseth evil to his friend whose blood has become one +with his own. + +"May the itch make him loathsome, and the hair of his head be lost by the +mange; may the adder wait for him by the path, and the lion meet him on +his way; may the leopard in the darkness besiege his house, and his wife +when she draweth water from the stream, be seized; may the barbed arrow +pin his entrails, and the sharp spear be dyed in his vitals; may sickness +waste his strength, and his days be narrowed with disease; may his limbs +fail him in the day of battle, and his arms stiffen with cramps," and so +on, invoking every evil and disease most dreaded, and the Zanzibari +Professor of Secret Ritualism, somewhat dumbfounded at first at the +series of curses delivered so volubly by Nestor, seized his magic gourd, +and shook it at the hills and the valley, at the head of Mazamboni with +awful solemnity; at Nestor himself, and the awe-struck following around, +and outdid Nestor, from perverted ambition, by frenzy, voice, and +gesture, in harmony with it; his eyes rolled wildly, foam came from his +lips; he summoned every blight to fall upon the land and its productions, +every damnable agency in his folk-lore to hound Mazamboni for ever; every +dark and potent spirit out of the limbo of evil imagination to torture +him in his waking and sleeping hours, until his actions were so +fantastic, his denunciation so outrageous, his looks so like one +possessed with a demon, that everyone, native and Zanzibari, broke out +into uncontrollable laughter, which caused Murabo, our "medicine man," to +sober instantly, and to say in Swahili to us, with a conceited shake of +the head, + +"Ay! master, how do you like that style for high acting?" which reminded +me of nothing so much as Hamlet out-ranting Laertes. + +Mazamboni, though undoubtedly paramount chief of Undussuma, seems to be +governed by an unwritten constitution. His ministers also are his +principal kinsmen, who conduct foreign and home policy even in his +presence, so that in affairs of government his voice is seldom heard. +Most of the time he sat silent and reserved--one might almost say +indifferent. Thus this unsophisticated African chief has discovered +that--whether from intuition or traditional custom it is hard to say--it +is best to divide government. If the principle has been derived from +custom, it proves that from the Albert Nyanza down to the Atlantic the +thousand tribes of the Congo basin spring from one parent tribe, nation, +or family. The similarity in other customs, physiognomy, and roots of +languages, lend additional proofs to substantiate this. + +We discovered that the chiefs, as well as the lesser folk, were arrant +beggars, and too sordid in mind to recognise a generous act. Though a +peace was strenuously sought by all, yet the granting of it seemed to +them to be only a means of being enriched with gifts from the strangers. +Mazamboni, even after a long day's work, could only be induced to give +more than a calf and five goats as a return for a ten-guinea rug, a +bundle of brass wire, and ivory horns from the forest. The chief of +Urumangwa and Bwessa, that flourishing settlement which in December had +so astonished us with its prosperity, likewise thought that he was +exceedingly liberal by endowing us with a kid and two fowls. + +Among our visitors to-day were Gavira, the chief of the Eastern Bavira, +who proclaimed from a hill that the land lay at our feet when we were +returning from the Lake; and also a Mhuma chief, who wore unblushingly +the fine scarlet cloth of which we had been mulcted in December to buy +peace. He never offered a return gift so long deferred. + +[Illustration: ONE OF MAZAMBONI'S WARRIORS.] + +We discovered that there were two different and distinctly differing +races living in this region in harmony with each other, one being clearly +of Indo-African origin, possessing exceedingly fine features, aquiline +noses, slender necks, small heads, with a grand and proud carriage; an +old, old race, possessing splendid traditions, and ruled by inflexible +custom which would admit of no deviation. Though the majority have a +nutty-brown complexion, some even of a rich dark brown, the purest of +their kind resemble old ivory in colour, and their skins have a +beautifully soft feel, as of finest satin. These confine themselves +solely to the breeding of cattle, and are imbued with a supercilious +contempt for the hoemen, the Bavira, who are strictly agricultural. No +proud dukeling in England could regard a pauper with more pronounced +contempt than the Wahuma profess for the Bavira. They will live in the +country of the Bavira, but not in their villages; they will exchange +their dairy produce for the grain and vegetables of the hoemen, but they +will never give their daughters in marriage but to a Mhuma born. Their +sons may possess children by Bavira women, but that is the utmost +concession. Now in this I discover the true secret of the varying +physiognomies, and the explanations in the variation of facial types. + +We have the true negroidal cast of features in the far-away regions of +West Africa, with which this proud high-caste race could not possibly +come in contact during many centuries; we have the primitive races of the +forest, the Akkas, Wambutti, Watwa, and Bushmen, of which the Wambutti +are by far the handsomest; have the Zulus, the Mafitte, Watuta, Wahha, +Warundi, Wanya-Ruanda, semi-Ethiopic; we have the Ethiopic, slightly +degraded, except in the aristocratic families, as in the Wahuma, or, as +they are variously called, Waima, Wachwezi, Wawitu, and the Wataturu, who +represent two human streams, one coming from Ethiopia by way of +South-East Galla into Unyoro and the high pastoral lake regions, and the +other flowing direct south. The Victoria Lake lies between these sections +of superior African humanity. + +A Bavira chief complained to me of the haughty contempt with which the +Bavira were regarded by the Wahuma, in just such words as these: "They +call us hoemen, and laugh to scorn the sober regularity with which we, +tilling the dark soil, live through our lives in honest labour. They +sweep round on foraging excursions, and know no loved and fixed home; +they settle down wherever they are tempted (by pasture), and when there +(is trouble) they build a house in another spot." + +But to my narrative, as I may deal with the subject further in a special +chapter. On the 16th, furnished by Mazamboni with twelve guides, escorted +by Gavira and fifty warriors, accompanied by a long line of new friends +behind the rear guard, assisted by more than a hundred carriers, we +marched to the territory of Gavira, to the village where we had rested in +the naked hill-village, after a terrible day of excitement, on the 12th +of December. We were now a peaceful procession, with somewhat of a +triumphal character. For at every village we appeared the warriors came +out and hailed us with friendly greetings, and at Makukuru, the name of +the village which we already knew, the women lu-lu-lued. From this +settlement in Uzanza we enjoyed an extensive view, embracing all eastward +to the brow of the high land overlooking the gulf of the Albert Lake +westward as far as Pisgah, six marches distant northward to the cones of +Bemberri, southward the hills of the Balegga rose, a mile off. + +The Chief of the Bavira is known as Gavira--an hereditary title, though +his name is Mpinga. He was a pleasant little man, but stingy; and when +not engaged in State councils, talkative. He and his tribe begged for +friendship similar to that which was established with Mazamboni; we were +only too willing to accede--the conditions being that he should be +hospitable to the Expedition on its journeys through his country. Having +halted one day at Mazamboni's, it was necessary that we should do equal +honour to Gavira; and as this place was only two short marches, or one +long march, to the Nyanza, we agreed. + +In the evening, two natives arrived from Mbiassi, of the tribe Ba-biassi, +chief of the district of Kavalli, which extended, in a broad strip, down +to the Nyanza, who informed me that their chief possessed a small packet, +covered with dark cloth, for me, which had been given him by Mpigwa, of +Nyamsassi, who had received it from a white man known to them as +_Malleju_. + +We were surrounded on the next day by hundreds of friendly people, who +seemed unable to gaze sufficiently at us. They therefore placidly +squatted on their haunches, quietly contemplating our movements; the +younger members were deputed by the old to gather fuel and sweet +potatoes, and to bring millet grain to camp. For trifling gifts, the +Zanzibaris obtained their most devoted service for building their huts, +and carrying water and attending to their fires, grinding their millet +grain into flour; while our men contentedly sat down, encouraging them to +hard labour with a friendly nod and bland smile, some bit of iron-work, a +pinch of beads, a cowrie or two, or a wristlet of brass wire. Every man +picked up a warm-hearted, and ingenious brother; and, excepting in +cooking, the natives were admitted into the privilege of fast +friendship. + +The chief Gavira was robed, in the afternoon, in bright scarlet cloth of +first-class quality, and escorted around the camp, with all honour, by +our headmen, who introduced him to the various messes with high tribute +to his good disposition. He was afterwards shown a mirror, at which he +and his elders expressed extraordinary astonishment and fright. They took +the reflection of their own faces to be a hostile tribe advancing from +the earth towards them, and started to run to a safer distance; but +instinctively they halted, as they saw that we did not stir. They then +returned on tip-toe, as if to ask what that sudden vision of black faces +could possibly have been; for the mirror had been dropped on its face +into the case. In answer to their mute appeal, it was opened again, and +they gazed at it fixedly. They whispered to one another--"Why, the faces +resemble our own!" They were told that what they saw was a reflection of +their own remarkably prepossessing features; and Mpinga, with pride, +blushed darkly at the compliment. Perceiving that he could be trusted +with it without shock to his nerves, it was put into his hand; and it was +amusing to see how quickly personal vanity increased; his elders crowded +around him, and all grouped around and were pleased to note how +truthfully the mirror reflected each facial characteristic. "See that +scar--it is just and exact; but lo! look at your broad nose, Mpinga; +why, it is perfect! Ay, and look at that big feather; it actually waves! +It is too--too wonderful! What can it be made of? It is like water; but +it is not soft by any means; and on the back it is black. Ah, but we have +seen a thing to-day that our fathers never saw, eh?" + +Uzanza exposed, and open to every blast from each quarter of heaven, will +be remembered for a long time. As the sun set, the cold winds blew from +lakeward, and smote us sorely; we were so accustomed to the equable +temperature of the forest, and so poor in clothing. One officer armed +himself with his waterproof; another put on his ulster; and still the +wind penetrated to the marrow; and there was no warmth but in the snug +beehive huts of the Bavira--whither we retired. + +Instead of pursuing along our first course to the Lake, we struck +north-east to the village of Kavalli, where the mysterious packet was +said to be. The grass was short cropped by numerous herds of cattle, and +covered every inch and made it resemble a lawn, save where the land +dipped down into the miniature cañons, which had been scooped out by +centuries of rain. + +As we traversed the smiling land, hailed, and greeted, and welcomed, by +the kindly Bavira, we could not forbear thinking how different all this +was from the days when we drove through noisy battalions of Bavira, +Babiassi, and Balegga, each urging his neighbours, and whooping and +hallooing every one to our extermination, with the quick play of light on +crowds of flashing spears, and yard-long arrows sailing through the air +to meet us; and now we had 157 Bavira actually in front of the advance +guard, as many behind the rear guard, while our 90 loads had been +distributed among voluntary carriers who thought it an honour to be +porters to the same men whom they had hounded so mercilessly a few months +previous. + +Soon after the arrival of the now numerous column before the thorny +zeriba of Kavalli, the chief, a handsome young Mhuma, with regular +features, tall, slender, and wonderfully composed in manner, appeared, to +show us where we might camp. To such as chose to avail themselves of +shelter in his village he accorded free permission; and on being asked +for the packet of _Malleju_, he produced it; and, as he handed it to me, +said that only his two young men, of all the country, knew that he +possessed it; and anxiously asked if he had not done an excellent thing +in keeping the secret safe. + +[Illustration: KAVALLI, CHIEF OF THE BA-BIASSI.] + +Untying the cover, which was of American oil-cloth, I found the following +letter:-- + + Dear Sir,-- + + Rumours having been afloat of white men having made their + apparition somewhere south of this Lake, I have come here in quest + of news. A start to the furthest end of the Lake, which I could + reach by steamer, has been without success, the people being + greatly afraid of Kabba Rega people, and their chiefs being under + instructions to conceal whatever they know. + + To-day, however, has arrived a man from Chief Mpigwa, of Nyamsassi + country, who tells me that a wife of the said chief has seen you at + Undussuma, her birthplace, and that his chief volunteers to send a + letter of mine to you. I send, therefore, one of our allies, Chief + Mogo, with the messenger to Chief Mpigwa's, requesting him to send + Mogo and this letter, as well as an Arabic one, to you, or to + retain Mogo and send the letter ahead. + + Be pleased, if this reaches you, _to rest where you are_, and to + inform me by letter, or one of your people, of your wishes. I could + easily come to Chief Mpigwa, and my steamer and boats would bring + you here. At the arrival of your letter or man, I shall at once + start for Nyamsassi, and from there we could concert our further + designs. + + Beware of Kabba Rega's men! He has expelled Captain Casati. + + Believe me, dear Sir, to be + Yours very faithfully, + (Signed) Dr. Emin. + + Tunguru (Lake Albert).[L] + 25/3/88. 8 P.M. + +The letter was translated to our men, upon hearing which, they became mad +with enthusiasm; nor were the natives of Kavalli less affected, though +not with such boisterous joy, for they perceived that the packet they had +guarded with such jealous care was the cause of this happiness. + +Food poured in gratuitously from many chiefs, and I directed Mbiassi to +inform the districts around that a contribution from each tribe or +section would be gladly received. + +On the 20th, I despatched Mr. Jephson and Surgeon Parke, with 50 rifles +and two native guides of Kavalli, to convey the steel boat, _Advance_, +down to Lake Albert. I am informed by the guides that Mswa station was +distant two days only, by boat sailing along the western shore. Mr. +Jephson was entrusted with the following letter to Emin Pasha:-- + + _April 18th, 1888._ + + Dear Sir,-- + + Your letter was put into my hands by Chief Mbiassi, of Kavalli, (on + the plateau), the day before yesterday, and it gave us all great + pleasure. + + I sent a long letter to you from Zanzibar by carriers to Uganda, + informing you of my mission and of my purpose. Lest you may not + have received it, I will recapitulate in brief its principal + contents. It informed you first that, in compliance with + instructions from the Relief Committee of London, I was leading an + Expedition for your relief. Half of the fund necessary was + subscribed by the Egyptian Government, the other half by a few + English friends of yours. + + It also informed you that the instructions of the Egyptian + Government were to guide you out of Africa, if you were willing to + leave Africa; if not, then I was to leave such ammunition as we had + brought with us for you, and you and your people were then to + consider yourselves as out of the service of Egypt, and your pay + was to cease upon such notification being given by you. If you were + willing to leave Africa, then the pay of yourself, officers and + men, was to continue until you had landed in Egypt. + + It further informed you that you yourself was promoted from Bey to + Pasha. + + It also informed you that I proposed, on account of the hostility + of Uganda, and political reasons, to approach you by way of the + Congo, and make Kavalli my objective point. + + I presume you have not received that letter, from the total + ignorance of the natives at Kavalli about you, as they only knew of + Mason's visit, which took place ten years ago. + + We first arrived here after some desperate fighting on the 14th + December last. We stayed two days on the shore of the Lake near + Kavalli, inquiring of every native that we could approach if they + knew of you, and were always answered in the negative. As we had + left our boat a month's march behind, we could get no canoe by fair + purchase or force, we resolved to return, obtain our boat, and + carry it to the Nyanza. This we have done, and in the meantime we + constructed a little fort fifteen days' march from here, and stored + such goods as we could not carry, and marched here with our boat + for a second trial to relieve you. This time the most violent + natives have received us with open arms, and escorted us by + hundreds on the way. The country is now open for a peaceful march + from Nyamsassi to our fort. + + Now I await your decision at Nyamsassi. As it is difficult to + supply rations to our people on the Nyanza plain, I hope we shall + not have to wait long for it. On the plateau above there is + abundance of food and cattle, but on the lower plain, bordering the + Nyanza, the people are mainly fishermen. + + If this letter reaches you before you leave your place, I should + advise you to bring in your steamer and boats, rations sufficient + to subsist us while we await your removal, say about 12,000 or + 15,000 lbs. of grain, millet, or Indian corn, &c., which, if your + steamer is of any capacity, you can easily bring. + + If you are already resolved on leaving Africa, I would suggest that + you should bring with you all your cattle, and every native willing + to follow you. Nubar Pasha hoped you would bring all your + Makkaraka, and leave not one behind if you could help it, as he + would retain them all in the service. + + The letters from the Ministry of War, and from Nubar Pasha, which I + bring, will inform you fully of the intention of the Egyptian + Government, and perhaps you had better wait to see them before + taking any action. I simply let you know briefly about the + intentions of the Government, that you may turn the matter over in + your mind, and be enabled to come to a decision. + + I hear you have abundance of cattle with you; three or four milk + cows would be very grateful to us if you can bring them in your + steamer and boats. + + I have a number of letters, some books and maps for you, and a + packet for Captain Casati. I fear to send them by my boat, lest you + should start from your place upon some native rumour of our having + arrived here, and you should miss her. Besides, I am not quite sure + that the boat will reach you; I therefore keep them until I am + assured they can be placed in your hands safely. + + We shall have to forage far and near for food while we await your + attendance at Nyamsassi, but you may depend upon it we shall + endeavour to stay here until we see you. + + All with me join in sending you our best wishes, and are thankful + that you are safe and well. + + Believe me, dear Pasha, + Your most obedient servant, + Henry M. Stanley. + Commanding Relief Expedition + + His Excellency Emin Pasha, + Governor of Equatorial Provinces, &c., &c., &c. + +[Illustration: MILK VESSEL OF THE WAHUMA.] + +During our halt at Kavalli several hundred natives from the districts +round about paid us friendly visits, and the chiefs and elders tendered +their submission to me. They said the country was mine, and whatever my +commands might be, would be promptly done. By the ready way food was +brought in, there was no reason to doubt their sincerity, though as yet +there was no necessity to take it too literally. So long as we were not +starving, nothing could happen to disturb the peaceful relations +commenced with Mazamboni. According to my means each chief received a +present of cloth, beads, cowries, and wire. Mbiassi furnished me with a +quart of milk daily in a wooden bowl of this pattern. + +----- + [L] When, after reaching Zanzibar, I read Emin Pasha's + letter to the Editor of Petermann's 'Mitteilungen' (see + No. 4 of the 'Gotha Geog. Journal'), dated 25th March, + 1888 (the same date that the above letter was written), + which concluded with the significant words: "If Stanley + does not come soon, we are lost," most curious thoughts + came into my mind which the intelligent reader will find + no difficulty in guessing. Happily, however, the Pasha + kept his own secret until I was far away from Bagamoyo, + and I was unable to inquire from him personally what + were his motives for not coming to Kavalli, December + 14th, 1887, the date he expected us; for remaining + silent two months and a half in his own stations after + that date, and then writing two such letters as the one + above and that to Petermann's Magazine on the same + date. + + + + +CHAPTER XV. + +THE MEETING WITH EMIN PASHA. + + + Our camp at Bundi--Mbiassi, the chief of Kavalli--The Balegga + granaries--Chiefs Katonza and Komubi express contrition--The kites + at Badzwa--A note from Jephson--Emin, Casati and Jephson walk into + our camp at old Kavalli--Descriptions of Emin Pasha and Captain + Casati--The Pasha's Soudanese--Our Zanzibaris--The steamer + _Khedive_--Baker and the Blue Mountains--Drs. Junker and Felkin's + descriptions of Emin--Proximity of Kabba Rega--Emin and the + Equatorial Provinces--Dr. Junker's report of Emin--I discuss with + Emin our future proceedings--Captain Casati's plans--Our camp and + provisions at Nsabé--Kabba Rega's treatment of Captain Casati and + Mohammed Biri--Mabruki gored by a buffalo--Emin Pasha and his + soldiers--My propositions to Emin and his answer--Emin's + position--Mahommet Achmet--The Congo State--The Foreign Office + despatches. + +On the 25th we departed from Kavalli and camped at Bundi, at an altitude +of 4,900 feet above the sea. The village proper was situated 400 feet +higher, on the crest of one of those ranges of hills which form the +dividing-line between the Congo basin and that of the Nile. From its +folds westerly escaped the first infant streams which flowed into East +Ituri. On the other side of the narrow rocky spine issued streams which +dropped into the gulf of the Albert. Our camp was situated on the very +brow of the plateau, in full view of a large portion of the south end of +the Albert. + +Mbiassi, the handsome chief of Kavalli, accompanied us to do the honours +of his tribe to his guests. He commanded the people of Bundi to hurry +forward an ample contribution to the camp, and also despatched messengers +to the redoubtable Komubi, chief of the Eastern Balegga, who seemed to be +considered by these stubborn foes of Kabba Rega as their "Only General," +with a message not to lag behind in supplying with food a man, who might +be induced to lend his aid in punishing Kabba Rega some day. Mbiassi, +commonly called Kavalli by his people, after his district, was a +diplomat. + +On the 26th we descended the plateau slope once more in 2 hours 45 +minutes--and at the foot of it we were quartered in the Balegga village +of Badzwa, 2,300 feet below Bundi camp. The Balegga had decamped, but as +it was Kavalli's property, he assumed charge, and distributed corn from +its granaries, according to the needs of our united followers, sufficient +for five days' rations. + +Messengers from Katonza, the chief who had declined our friendship on +December 14th, who had refused our proffered gifts, who had sent his men +to throw arrows into our bivouac of the 16th, and murdered our two sick +men, came to say that he was "dying" to see me. He had now heard that +Mazamboni, Gavira, Kavalli, and many others were hand-and-glove with the +strangers who had humbly begged a drink of water from his people, and he +had hastened to make reparation, like Shimei the Benjamite. Before I +could frame an answer, stalwart Komubi, the "only general," had descended +from the Balegga Hills with a white cow, several goats, and bundles of +sweet potatoes, besides many jars of potent beer. It was Komubi and his +stubborn fellows who had clung to the rear guard on the 13th December +with such persistency, and had attempted a night attack. He now frankly +came to express contrition and sorrow that he had mistaken us for Kabba +Rega's bandits, and to surrender his country wholly into my hands, and +his life, if I so wished it. With this bold chieftain we made friends +quickly enough, and after a lengthy interview parted. To Katonza we +replied that we would think of his message. + +I now turn to the diary form. + +_August 27th._--Halt at Badzwa. The kites are very bold in this +neighbourhood. Seeing their daring, we amused ourselves with putting +pieces of meat on the roof of a hut within arm's length of a man +standing by, and each time the kite succeeded in escaping with the meat, +as the bird, sailing and wheeling round the spot, seemed to know when the +attention was relaxed, and that moment dropped plump upon the meat, and +sailed away with it fast gripped before the outstretched hand could seize +him. + +Our hunter, "Three o'clock," went out, and returned with the meat of a +fine kudu he had shot. + +_April 28th._--Halt. Wadi Mabruki, another hunter, went out this morning +to compete at game-hunting with "Three o'clock," and in the afternoon he +and his followers brought three young roan antelope. + +_April 29th._--At 8 A.M., as we were about to break camp to march to the +Lake, a native guide appeared with a note from Jephson, dated April 23rd, +which stated that he had safely reached Mswa, a station of Emin Pasha's, +and that messengers had been despatched by the Commandant, Shukri Agha, +to apprise Emin Pasha of our appearance on the lake. A basket of +onions--a gift from Shukri Agha--accompanied the note. + +At 9 A.M. we set out for the Lake. Two hours later we were camped about a +quarter of a mile from the shore, not far from the bivouac ground +occupied by us on the 16th December, and on the site of old Kavalli, as +the chief showed us. We had five days' rations of grain with us, and meat +could be procured from the plain behind us, as it swarmed with large game +of various kinds. + +From my tent-door, at 4.30 P.M., I saw a dark object loom up on the +north-east horizon of the lake. I thought it might be a native canoe, or +perhaps the steel boat _Advance_ returning, but a binocular revealed the +dimensions of a vessel much larger than a boat or canoe could possibly +be, and presently a dark puff of smoke issuing from it declared her to be +a steamer. An hour later we could distinguish a couple of boats in tow, +and at 6.30 P.M. the steamer dropped anchor in the baylet of Nyamsassi, +in shore of the island of that name. Scores of our people were on the +beach in front of our camp firing guns, and waving signals, but though +we were only two miles from the island, no one appeared to observe us. + +Ardent messengers were therefore sent along the shore to inform the party +on board of our presence, and these were, unhappily, so exuberant, that +as they fired their rifles to give notice, they were fired at in return +by the Soudanese, who naturally enough took the wild figures for Kabba +Rega's people. However, no harm was done; the boat's crew distinguished +their comrades' cries, the word was passed that the people on shore were +friends, and the boat was made ready to convey our visitors to the beach +near the camp. At eight o'clock, amid great rejoicing, and after repeated +salutes from rifles, Emin Pasha himself walked into camp accompanied by +Captain Casati and Mr. Jephson, and one of the Pasha's officers. I shook +hands with all, and asked which was Emin Pasha? Then one rather small, +slight figure, wearing glasses, arrested my attention by saying in +excellent English, "I owe you a thousand thanks, Mr. Stanley; I really do +not know how to express my thanks to you." + +"Ah, you are Emin Pasha. Do not mention thanks, but come in and sit down. +It is so dark out here we cannot see one another." + +At the door of the tent we sat, and a wax candle threw light upon the +scene. I expected to see a tall thin military-looking figure, in faded +Egyptian uniform, but instead of it I saw a small spare figure in a +well-kept fez and a clean suit of snowy cotton drilling, well-ironed and +perfect fit. A dark grizzled beard bordered a face of a Magyar cast, +though a pair of spectacles lent it somewhat an Italian or Spanish +appearance. There was not a trace on it of ill-health or anxiety; it +rather indicated good condition of body and peace of mind. Captain +Casati, on the other hand, though younger in years, looked gaunt, +care-worn, anxious, and aged. He likewise dressed in clean cottons, with +an Egyptian fez for a head-covering. + +[Illustration: EMIN AND CASATI ARRIVE AT OUR LAKE SHORE CAMP.] + +Brief summaries of our incidents of travel, events in Europe, occurrences +in the Equatorial Provinces and matters personal, occupied the best part +of two hours, after which, to terminate the happy meeting, five half-pint +bottles of champagne--a present from my friend Greshoff, of Stanley +Pool--were uncorked and duly drank to the continued good healths of Emin +Pasha and Captain Casati.[M] + +The party were conducted to the boat, which conveyed them to the +steamer. + +_April 30th._--Marched Expedition to Nsabé, a fine dry grassy spot, fifty +yards from Lake and about three miles from Nyamsassi Island. As we passed +the anchorage of the steamer _Khedive_, we found a detachment of the +Pasha's Soudanese drawn up on the Lake shore on parade to salute us with +music. The Pasha was dressed in his uniform coat, and appeared more of a +military man than last night. + +Our Zanzibaris, by the side of these upright figures, seemed altogether a +beggarly troop, and more naked than ever. But I was not ashamed of them. +It was by their aid, mean as they appeared, that we had triumphed over +countless difficulties, and though they did not understand drill, nor +could assume a martial pose, the best of these Soudanese soldiers were +but children to them for the needs of a Relief Expedition. After this +little ceremony was over I delivered to the Pasha thirty-one cases of +Remington ammunition, and I went aboard the steamer, where I breakfasted +on millet cake fried in syrup, and a glass of new milk. + +The steamer proved to be the _Khedive_, built by Samuda Brothers in 1869, +and is about ninety feet long by seventeen or eighteen feet wide; draught +five feet. Though nearly twenty years old, she is still serviceable +though slow. The upper works look well enough, but she is much patched +below water, I am told. + +On board, besides the Pasha, were Casati, Vita Hassan, a Tunisian +apothecary, some Egyptian clerks, an Egyptian lieutenant, and some forty +Soudanese soldiers, besides a fine crew. Sometimes, from the familiar +sounds heard during moments of abstraction, I fancied myself at +Alexandria or on the Lower Congo; but, looking up, and taking a sweeping +view around, I became assured that I was on board of a steamer afloat on +Lake Albert. As we move slowly about a mile and a half from the shore +northward, the lofty mass of the plateau of Unyoro is to our right, and +to our left is an equally formidable plateau wall, the ascents and +descents of which we know so well. By a glance at the mass of Unyoro, +which is darkly blue, I see the reason Baker gave the name of Blue +Mountains to our plateau wall, for were we steaming along the Unyoro +shore the warm vapour would tint our plateau wall of similar colour. When +we have left Nyamsassi Island astern, a damp sheet of rock, wetted by the +stream we crossed yesterday in our descent, glistens in the sun like a +mirror, and makes it resemble a clear falling sheet of water. Hence Baker +gave it the name of a Cascade, as seen by him from the eastern side. + +Dr. Junker and Dr. Felkin, especially in the _Graphic_ numbers of +January, 1887, made us expect a nervous, wiry, tall man of six feet, or +thereabouts, but in reality Emin Pasha does not exceed 5 feet 7 inches in +height. I remember that the former was anxious that the trousers ordered +in Cairo for his friend should be long enough in the extremities. About +six inches were cut off the legs before they fitted. He tells me he is +forty-eight years old. In appearance he does not indicate such an age; +his beard is dark almost to blackness, while his activity would befit a +man of thirty or thirty-five. + +The Pasha tells me that he has visited Monbuttu, but, like the travellers +Schweinfürth, Casati, Piaggia, and Junker, he has not made any +astronomical observations, but confined himself solely to the compass +survey. The meteorology of this climate, however, has received greater +attention, as might be expected from his methodical habitude of mind. + +About noon we anchored off Nsabé, and I went ashore to bestir the men to +make a respectable camp suitable for a protracted halt in a country that +we might well call dangerous owing to the proximity of Kabba Rega. That +king, having thrown down the gage of battle to Emin Pasha, might fancy +himself strong enough, with his 1,500 rifles, to test our strength; or +the Waganda, during their raids, might hear of our vicinity and be +tempted by expected booty to make a visit to us. + +This evening Emin Pasha came ashore, and we had a lengthy conversation, +but after all I am unable to gather in the least what his intentions may +be. I have delivered to him his mails, the Khedive's "High Order," and +Nubar Pasha's letter. + +I had an idea that I might have to wait about two weeks, when we would +all march to the plateau and occupy a suitable spot in Undusuma, where, +after seeing everything done for complete security and comfort, I could +leave him to return to the assistance of the rear column. On being +re-united we could resume our march within a few days for Zanzibar; but +the Pasha's manner is ominous. When I propose a return to the sea to him, +he has the habit of tapping his knee, and smiling in a kind of "We shall +see" manner. It is evident he finds it difficult to renounce his position +in a country where he has performed viceregal functions. + +After laying before him at some length the reasons of the abandonment of +the Equatorial Provinces by Egypt he replied, "I see clearly the +difficulty Egypt is in as regards retention of these provinces, but I do +not see so clearly my way of returning. The Khedive has written to me +that the pay of myself, officers and men will be settled by the Paymaster +General if we return to Egypt, but if we stay here we do so at our own +risk and on our own responsibility, and that we cannot expect further aid +from Egypt. Nubar Pasha has written to me a longer letter, but to the +same effect. Now, I do not call these instructions. They do not tell me +that I must quit, but they leave me a free agent." + +"Well, I will supplement these letters with my own positive knowledge, if +you will permit me, as the Khedive and Nubar Pasha are not here to +answer for themselves. Dr. Junker arrived in Egypt telling the world that +you were in great distress for want of ammunition, but that you had a +sufficient quantity to defend your position for a year or perhaps +eighteen months, providing no determined attack was made on you, and you +were not called upon to make a prolonged resistance; that you had +defended the Equatorial Provinces so far successfully; that you would +continue to do so to the utmost of your ability, until you should receive +orders from your Government to do otherwise; that you loved the country +and people greatly; that the country was in a prosperous state--quiet and +contented--possessed of almost everything required to maintain it in this +happy condition; that you would not like to see all your work thrown +away, but that you would much prefer that Egypt should retain these +provinces, or failing Egypt, some European Power able and willing to +continue your work. Did Dr. Junker report you correctly, Pasha?" + +"Yes, he did." + +"Well, then, the first idea that occurred to the minds of the Egyptian +officials upon hearing Dr. Junker's report was, that no matter what +instructions you received, you would be disinclined to leave your +provinces, therefore the Khedive says that if you remain here, you do so +upon your own responsibility, and at your own risk, and you are not to +expect further aid from Egypt. + +"Our instructions are to carry a certain quantity of ammunition to you, +and say to you, upon your obtaining it, 'Now we are ready to guide and +assist you out of Africa, if you are willing to accompany us, and we +shall be delighted to have the pleasure of your company; but if you +decline going, our mission is ended.' + +"Let us suppose the latter, that you prefer remaining in Africa. Well, +you are still young, only forty-eight; your constitution is still good. +Let us say you will feel the same vigour for five, ten, even fifteen +years longer; but the infirmities of age will creep on you, and your +strength will fade away. Then you will begin to look doubtingly upon the +future prospect, and mayhap suddenly resolve to retire before it is too +late. Some route will be chosen--the Monbuttu route, for instance--to the +sea. Say that you reach the Congo, and are nearing civilization; how will +you maintain your people, for food must then be bought for money or +goods? And supposing you reach the sea, what will you do then? Who will +assist you to convey your people to their homes? You rejected Egypt's +help when it was offered to you, and, to quote the words of the Khedive, +'You are not to expect further aid from Egypt.' + +"If you stay here during life, what becomes of the provinces afterwards? +Your men will fight among themselves for supremacy, and involve all in +one common ruin. These are grave questions, not to be hastily answered. +If your provinces were situated within reasonable reach of the sea, +whence you could be furnished with means to maintain your position, I +should be one of the last to advise you to accept the Khedive's offer, +and should be most active in assisting you with suggestions as to the +means of maintenance; but here, surrounded as this lake is by powerful +kings and warlike peoples on all sides, by such a vast forest on the +west, and by the fanatic followers of the Mahdi on the north, were I in +your place, I would not hesitate one moment what to do." + +"What you say is quite true," replied the Pasha, "but we have such a +large number of women and children, probably 10,000 people altogether! +How can they all be brought out of here? We shall want a great many +carriers." + +"Carriers for what?" + +"For the women and children. You surely would not leave them, and they +cannot travel." + +"The women must walk; for such children as cannot walk, they will be +carried on donkeys, of which you say you have many. Your people cannot +travel far during the first month, but little by little they will get +accustomed to it. Our women on my second expedition crossed Africa; your +women, after a little while, will do quite as well." + +"They will require a vast amount of provisions for the road." + +"Well, you have a large number of cattle, some hundreds, I believe. Those +will furnish beef. The countries through which we pass must furnish grain +and vegetable food. And when we come to countries that will accept pay +for food, we have means to pay for it, and at Msalala we have another +stock of goods ready for the journey to the coast." + +"Well, well. We will defer further talk of it till to-morrow." + +_May 1st_.--Halt at Nsabé. + +About 11 a.m. Emin Pasha came ashore, and upon being seated we resumed in +a short time our conversation of last evening. + +"What you told me last night," began the Pasha, "has led me to think that +it is best we should retire from Africa. The Egyptians are very willing +to go I know. There are about fifty men of them besides women and +children. Of those there is no doubt, and even if I stayed here I should +be glad to be rid of them, because they undermine my authority, and +nullify all my endeavours for retreat. When I informed them that Khartoum +had fallen and Gordon Pasha was slain they always told the Nubians that +the story was concocted by me, and that some day we should see the +steamers ascend the river for their relief. But of the Regulars, who +compose two battalions I am extremely doubtful. They have led such a free +and happy life here, that they would demur at leaving a country where +they enjoy luxuries such as they cannot hope for in Egypt. They are +married, and besides, each soldier has his harem; most of the Irregulars +would doubtless retire and follow me. Now supposing the Regulars refused +to leave, you can imagine my position would be a difficult one. Would I +be right in leaving them to their fate? Would it not be consigning them +all to ruin? I should have to leave them their arms and ammunition, and +on my retiring all recognized authority and discipline would be at an +end. There would would presently rise disputes and factions would be +formed. The more ambitious would aspire to be chiefs by force, and from +rivalries would spring hate and mutual slaughter, involving all in one +common fate." + +"It is a terrible picture you have drawn, Pasha," I said. "Nevertheless, +bred as I have been to obey orders, no matter what may happen to others, +the line of your duty, as a faithful officer to the Khedive, seems to me +to be clear." + +"All you have to do, according to my idea, is to read the Khedive's +letter to your troops, and ask those willing to depart with you to stand +on one side, and those preferring to remain to stand on the other, and +prepare the first for immediate departure, while to the latter you can +leave what ammunition and guns you can spare. If those who remain number +three-fourths or four-fifths of your force, it does not at all matter to +any one what becomes of them, for it is their own choice, nor does it +absolve you personally from the line of conduct duty to the Khedive +directs." + +"That is very true," replied the Pasha; "but supposing the men surround +me and detain me by force?" + +"That is unlikely, I should think, from the state of discipline I see +among your men; but of course you know your own men best." + +"Well, I shall send the steamer down to-morrow with the Khedive's letter, +and you would oblige me greatly if you would allow one of your officers +to go and show himself to the troops at Dufflé. Let him speak to the men +himself, and say that he has come from the representative of the +Government, who has been specially sent by the Khedive to bring them out, +and perhaps when they have seen him, and talked with your Soudanese, they +will be willing to depart with us. If the people go, I go; if they stay, +I stay." + +"Now supposing you resolve to stay, what of the Egyptians?" + +"Oh, those I shall have to ask you to take charge of." + +"Now will you be good enough to ask Captain Casati if we are to have the +pleasure of his company to the coast, for we have been instructed to lend +him every assistance in our power?" + +Captain Casati answered through Emin Pasha. + +"If the Governor Emin goes, I go; if he stays, I stay." + +"Well, I see, Pasha, that in the event of your staying your +responsibilities will be great, for you involve Captain Casati in your +own fate." + +(A laugh), and the sentence was translated to Casati, and the gallant +Captain at once replied. + +"Oh, I absolve Emin Pasha from all responsibility connected with me, for +I am governed by my own choice entirely." + +"May I suggest then, Pasha, if you elect to remain here, that you make +your will?" + +"Will! What for?" + +"To dispose of your pay of course, which must by this time be +considerable. Eight years I believe you said? Or perhaps you meditate +leaving it to Nubar Pasha?" + +"I give Nubar Pasha my love. Pho! There can be only about two thousand +and odd pounds due. What is such a sum to a man about to be shelved? I am +now forty-eight and one of my eyes is utterly gone. When I get to Egypt +they will give me some fine words and bow me out. And all I have to do is +to seek out some corner of Cairo or Stamboul for a final resting-place. A +fine prospect truly!" + +In the afternoon Emin Pasha came again to my tent, and during our +conversation he said that he had resolved to leave Africa--"if his people +were willing; if not, he would stay with them." + +I learned also that the Egyptians were only too willing to leave for +their mother-land, and that there were about sixty-five of them. That the +first battalion of Regulars numbered a little over 650, and that the +second battalion amounted to nearly 800. That he had about 750 Remington +rifles, and that the rest were armed with percussion muskets. + +_May 2nd._--The _Khedive_ steamer left this morning for the northward, +first to Mswa Station, thence to Tunguru, fourteen and a half hours' +steaming from hence; two days later she will sail for Wadelai, the third +day for Dufflé. She carries letters from the Pasha to bring up sixty or +seventy soldiers, a Major, and as many carriers as can be mustered. She +will probably be fourteen days absent. In the meantime we await here her +return. + +I omitted to state before that the Pasha brought with him, according to +my letter, a few bullocks and milk cows, about forty sheep and goats, and +as many fowls, besides several thousand pounds of grain, as rations to +subsist the Expedition pending the time we should remain on the Nyanza, +as the shore in the neighbourhood of Nsabé is entirely destitute of food +except what may be obtained by hunting. With care we have quite three +weeks' provisions on hand. + +Meanwhile the Pasha remains here with Captain Casati and about twenty +soldiers, and is camped about 300 yards south of us. He and his people +are comfortably hutted. There is every prospect of a perfect rest free +from anxiety for some two weeks, while myself and officers will have the +society of a most amiable and accomplished man in the Pasha. Casati does +not understand English, and his French is worse than my own, so I am +excluded from conversing with him. I learn from the Pasha, however, that +Casati has had a difficult time of it in Unyoro. Until December last, +things progressed tolerably well with him. Residing in Unyoro as Emin +Pasha's Agent, he was the means of forwarding the Pasha's letter to +Uganda, and transmitting such packets of letters, books, medicines, etc., +that Mr. Mackay, Church Missionary Agent, could spare. + +Then from Uganda there came suddenly news to Kabba Rega of our +Expedition, whose force rumour had augmented to thousands of +well-appointed soldiers, who intended to unite with the Pasha's force, +and sweep through Unyoro and Uganda devastating every land; and +presently a packet of letters for myself and officers was put in Kabba +Rega's hands, confirming in a measure the truth of this report. An +officer was sent to Casati's house, and the Wanyoro pillaged him of every +article, and bound him and his servants to a tree, besides treating him +personally with every mark of indignity. Mohammed Biri, an Arab, who had +been mainly the medium of communication between Casati and Mr. Mackay, +was, I am told, treated in a worse fashion--probably executed as a spy +and traitor. Captain Casati and his personal servants, after a while were +led out from Unyoro, by Kabba Rega's officials, and when beyond the +frontier were tied to trees again in a nude state. By some means, +however, they managed to untie themselves and escape to the neighbourhood +of the Lake, where one of the servants discovered a canoe and set out for +the western shore across the Lake to Tunguru to obtain help from Emin +Pasha. One of the Pasha's steamers came across the daring fellow, and the +captain on hearing the news, after supplying his vessel with fuel, +steamed away to acquaint the Pasha. In a few hours the _Khedive_ steamer +was under way, commanded by the Governor in person, who had a detachment +of soldiers with him. After searching for some time the eastern shore, as +directed by Casati's servant, the steamer was hailed from shore by +Casati, who in a few moments found himself safe in the arms of his +friend. Some soldiers were sent on shore, and Kibero was burnt in +retaliation for the injuries done to his agent. Of course, Casati, having +been turned out naked into the wilderness, lost all his personal +property, journals and memoirs, and with these our letters. + +The Captain placed a way-bill in my hand, wherein I learn that postal +carriers left Zanzibar on the 27th July, just one month after we had left +Yambuya, so that our letters were duly received at Msalala on the 11th +September, and arrived at the Church Missionary Station in Uganda, +November 1st; and that Captain Casati received six packets of letters on +the 1st December, just twelve days before we arrived on the western +shore of the Nyanza. As he was expelled on the 13th February, 1888, +according to his account our mails seem to have long lain on his hands, +probably no means having been presented of sending them to the Pasha. + +This morning 3 o'clock (Saat Tato) the hunter set out to shoot game for +the camp, accompanied by a few young fellows anxious to participate in +the sport. Two buffalo fell victims to the hunter's unerring aim, but a +third one, wounded only in the leg, according to the cunning instinct of +the beast, rushed away, and making a circle hid himself in some branchy +acacias to await his opponent. Mabruki, the son of Kassin, thought he +knew the art of buffalo hunting, and set out on the tracks of the wounded +animal. The buffalo on the alert no sooner discovered his enemy, than +uttering a hoarse bellows charged and tossed him, one of his horns +entering the thigh of the unhappy man. While thus prostrate, he was +pounded with the head, gored in the side, arms, and ripped in the body, +until Saat Tato, hearing the screams, rushed to the rescue when almost +too late, and planting a shot in the buffalo's head, rolled him over, +dead. A young man hurried to camp to acquaint us with the sad accident. +"Three o'clock" set out again, and shot four fine buck roan antelope. +While Mabruki was being borne, shockingly mangled, in a cot to our camp, +a strong detachment of men were bearing the remains of three buffaloes, +and four roan antelopes to serve as provisions for a people already +gorged with beef and grain, but, strange to say, there was as much eager +clamour and loud demand for their due share as if the men were famished. + +On the night of April 30th a strong gale blew nearly all night, and the +Pasha signalled to the _Khedive_ to drop two anchors. As there was good +holding ground the steamer rode the gale safely. Since then we have had +several strong squalls accompanied with rain day and night. + +_May 3rd_.--Nsabé Camp. + +Kavalli's people, like good subjects to their absent prince, came to +visit him to-day, bringing with them ten baskets of potatoes, which were +kindly distributed between us and Emin Pasha. + +During a long conversation this afternoon Emin Pasha stated, "I feel +convinced that my people will never go to Egypt. But Mr. Jephson and the +Soudanese whom you are kind enough to leave with me will have an +opportunity to see and hear for themselves. And I would wish you would +write out a proclamation or message which may be read to the soldiers, in +which you will state what your instructions are, and say that you await +their declaration. From what I know of them I feel sure they will never +go to Egypt. The Egyptians, of course, will go, but they are few in +number, and certainly of no use to me or to any one else." + +This has been the most definite answer I have received yet. I have been +awaiting a positive declaration of this kind before venturing upon any +further proposition to him. Now, to fulfil my promise to various parties, +though they appear somewhat conflicting, I have two other propositions to +make. My first duty is to the Khedive, of course; and I should be glad to +find the Pasha conformable, as an obedient officer who kept his post so +gallantly until ordered to withdraw. By this course he would realize the +ideal Governor his letters created in my mind. Nevertheless, he has but +to speak positively to induce me to assist him in any way to the best of +my power. + +"Very well," I said; "and now pray listen, Pasha, to two other +propositions I have the honour of making to you from parties who would be +glad to avail themselves of your services. Added to that which comes from +His Highness the Khedive, these two will make three, and I would suggest +that, as there appears to be abundant time before you, that you examine +each on its merits and elect for yourself. + +"Let me repeat them. The first proposition is that you still continue to +be an obedient soldier and accompany me to Egypt. On arrival, yourself, +your officers and men, will receive your pay up to date. Whether you will +be employed by the Government in active service I do not know; I should +think you would. Officers of your kind are rare, and Egypt has a frontier +where such services as you could render would be valuable. In answer to +this proposition you, however, say that you feel convinced your men will +not depart from here, and that in the event of a declaration to that +effect being given by them that you will remain with them. + +"Now, my second proposition to you comes from Leopold, King of the +Belgians. He has requested me to inform you that in order to prevent the +lapse of the Equatorial Provinces to barbarism, and provided they can +yield a reasonable revenue, the Congo State might undertake the +government of them if it could be done by an expenditure of about £10,000 +or £12,000 per annum; and further, that his Majesty King Leopold was +willing to pay a sufficient salary to you--£1,500 as Governor, with the +rank of General--in the belief that such employment agrees with your own +inclination. Your duty would be to keep open the communications between +the Nile and Congo, and to maintain law and order in the Equatorial +Provinces. + +"My third proposition is: If you are convinced that your people will +positively decline the Khedive's offer to return to Egypt, that you +accompany me with such soldiers as are loyal to you to the north-east +corner of Victoria Nyanza, and permit me to establish you there in the +name of the East African Association. We will assist you to build your +fort in a locality suitable to the aims of such an association, leave our +boat and such things as would be necessary for your purpose with you, and +then hasten home across the Masai Land, lay the matter before the East +African Association, and obtain its sanction for the act, as well as its +assistance to establish you permanently in Africa. I must explain to you +that I have no authority to make this last proposition, that it issues +from my own goodwill to you, and with an earnest desire to save you and +your men from the consequences of your determination to remain here. But +I feel assured that I can obtain its hearty approval and co-operation, +and that the Association will readily appreciate the value of a trained +battalion or two in their new acquisition, and the services of such an +administrator as yourself. + +"Pray, grant me a patient hearing for a moment or two while I explain +definitely to you your position here. The whole system of Egyptian +extension up to the Albert Nyanza was wrong. In theory it was beautiful, +and it was natural. What more natural than that the Government +established at the mouth of a river should desire to extend its authority +up along the banks to its source, and such a source as the Nile has. +Unhappily, however, it was an Egyptian Government, which, however honest +in its intentions, could only depend upon officials of the lowest moral +quality and mental calibibre. It is true the chief official in these +regions has been a Baker, or a Gordon, or an Emin, but all the +subordinates were Egyptians or Turks. As you multiplied your stations and +increased your posts, you lessened your own influence. While in the +centre of your orbit there might be a semblance of government; the outer +circles remained under the influences of Turkish and Egyptian officers of +some Cairene Pasha, or Bey, or Effendi, whose conduct was licentious and +capricious. By military force the country was taken and occupied, and by +force the occupation has been maintained ever since. A recognized +Government, even if it be that of Egypt, has a legal and moral right to +extend its authority and enlarge its domain. If it executes its will +effectively, so much the better. Civilization will be benefited, and all +peoples are better under a constituted Government than under none. But +was there an effective Government? As far as Lado and Gondokoro, near the +White Nile Cataracts, it was tolerable I admit. Steamers could steam from +Berber as far as Lado, and the chief official could superintend such +sub-Governments as were established, but when, before making roads or +preparing and ensuring the means of communication, the Egyptian +Government approved the acts of expansion undertaken over the immense, +trackless, inaccessible area of the extreme Soudan, it invited the +catastrophe that happened. When Mohammed Achmet fired the combustible +material that the extortionate subordinates had gathered, the means for +extinguishing the flames were scattered over an area of about 500,000 +square miles. The Governor-General was slain, his capital taken; one +province after another fell; and their governors and soldiery, isolated +and far apart, capitulated; and you, the last of these, only saved +yourself and men by retreating from Lado. Expanded on the same system, +and governed only by the presence of military, these former Egyptian +acquisitions, if retaken would invite a similar fate. If the military +occupation were effective, and each sub-Government cohered to the other, +the collapse of the Government need not be feared; but it can never be +effective under Egypt. Neither her revenues nor her population can afford +it. In the absence of this, only self-interest of the peoples governed +can link these distant territories to the Government of Egypt; and this +is an element which seems never to have been considered by those +responsible for this sudden overgrowth of Cairene empire. When has this +self-interest of the people been cultivated or fostered? The captains +marched their soldiery to a native territory, raised a flag-staff, and +hoisted the red banner with the crescent, and then with a salute of +musketry declared the described district around formally annexed to +Egypt. Proclamations were issued to all concerned, that henceforth the +ivory trade was a monopoly of the Government; and in consequence, such +traders as were in the land were deprived of their livelihood. When, to +compensate themselves for the loss of profit incurred by these measures, +the traders turned their attention to slaves, another proclamation +crushed their enterprise in that traffic also. A large number of the +aborigines derived profit from the sale of ivory to the traders, others +had lame interests in the capture and sale of slaves, while the traders +themselves, having invested their capital in these enterprises, +discovered themselves absolutely ruined, both money and occupation gone. +Remember, I am only considering the policy. Thus there were left in the +Soudan hundreds of armed caravans, and each caravan numbered from a score +to hundreds of rifles. When Mohamed Achmet raised the standard of revolt +he had some advantages to offer to the leaders of these caravans made +desperate by their losses. What had the Government officials to offer? +Nothing. Consequently all vestiges of the Government that had been so +harsh, so arbitrary, and unwise, were swept away like chaff. It was to +the interest of traders to oppose themselves to the Government, and to +endeavour to restore a state of things which, though highly immoral as +considered by us, to them meant profit, and, what is more, relief from +oppression. + +"Now consider the Congo State, which has extended itself much more +rapidly than Egyptian authority was extended in the Soudan. Not a shot +has been fired, no violence has been offered to either native or trader, +not a tax has been levied except at the seaport where the trader embarks +his exports. Native chiefs voluntarily offered their territories, and +united under the blue flag with the golden star. Why? Because there were +many advantages to be derived from the strangers living among them. +First, they were protected against their stronger neighbours, every +eatable they could raise and sell brought its full value to them of such +clothing and other necessaries they needed. Whatever trade they +had--ivory, rubber, palm-oil, or kernels--was free and untaxed, and their +native customs, or domestic matters, were not interfered with. It was +founded without violence, and subsists without violence; when, however, +the Congo State initiates another policy, taxes their trade, lays hands +upon the ivory as a Government monopoly, meddles with their domestic +institutions, absorbs tyrannically all the profits of the European +trader, before it is firmly established on the soil, and gathered about +its stations sufficient physical force to enable it to do so with +impunity, the Congo State will collapse just as disastrously and as +suddenly as was the case with Egyptian authority in the Soudan. The +disaster that occurred at Stanley Falls station is an indication of what +may be expected. + +"Now every man who reflects at all will see that these Provinces of yours +can never be re-occupied by Egypt while Egypt is governed by Egyptian +officials. Egypt cannot afford the sums necessary to maintain an +effective occupation over a territory so remote. They are too distant +from Wadi Haifa, the present true limit of her territory. When she +connects Wadi Haifa with Berber, or Khartoum or Suakim with Berber by +railway, Lado may be considered the extreme southern limit of her +territory. When a railway connects Lado with Dufflé the true limit of +Egyptian authority will be the southern end of this Lake, provided always +that the military force will be sufficient to maintain this mode of +communication uninterrupted. When do you think all this will happen? +During your lifetime? + +"Who else, then, will be so quixotic as to cast a covetous eye on these +Provinces? The King of the Belgians? Well, there is a stipulation +connected with this proposal, and that is, if the Provinces can 'give a +reasonable revenue.' You are the best judge of this matter, and whether +£10,000 or £12,000 subsidy will suffice for the support of the Government +of these Provinces. The revenue, whatever it may be with this additional +sum, must be sufficient to maintain about twenty stations between here +and Yambuya, a distance of 650 miles or thereabouts; that is, to pay +about 1,200 soldiers, about fifty or sixty officers, and a supreme +Governor, furnish their equipments, the means of defence, and such +transport force as may be necessary to unite the most distant part with +the Congo. + +"Failing the King of the Belgians, who else will undertake your support +and maintenance, befitting your station and necessity? There are enough +kind-hearted people in this world possessed of sufficient superfluous +means to equip an Expedition once, say, every three years. But this is +only a temporary expedient for mere subsistence, and it scarcely responds +to your wishes. What then? I await your answer, Pasha, again begging to +be excused for being so talkative. + +"I thank you very much, Mr. Stanley, I do assure you, from my heart. If I +fail to express my gratitude, it is because language is insufficient. But +I feel your kindness deeply, I assure you, and will answer you frankly. + +"Now, to the first proposition you have made me, I have already given my +answer. + +"To the second I would say that, first of all, my duty is to Egypt. While +I am here, the Provinces belong to Egypt, and remain her property until I +retire. When I depart they become 'no man's land.' I cannot strike my +flag in such a manner, and change the red for the blue. I have served the +first for thirty years; the latter I never saw. Besides, may I ask you +if, with your recent experience, you think it likely that communication +could be kept open at reasonable cost?" + +"Undoubtedly not at first. Our experiences have been too terrible to +forget them soon; but we shall return to Yambuya for the rear column, I +anticipate, with much less suffering. The pioneer suffers most. Those who +follow us will profit by what we have learned." + +"That may be, but we shall be at least two years before any news can +reach us. No, I do not think that proposition, with all due gratitude to +His Majesty King Leopold, can be entertained, and therefore let us turn +to the last proposition. + +"I do not think that my people would object to accompanying me to the +Victoria Nyanza, as their objection, so far as I know, only applies to +going to Egypt. Assuming that the people are willing, I admire the +project very much. It is the best solution of the difficulty, and by far +the most reasonable. For consider that three-fourths of the 8,000 people +are women, children, and young slaves. What would the Government do with +such a mass of people? Would it feed them? Then think of the difficulty +of travel with such an army of helpless people. I cannot take upon +myself the responsibility of leading such a host of tender-footed people +to die on the road. The journey to the Victoria is possible. It is +comparatively short. Yes, by far the last proposition is the most +feasible." + +"There is no hurry, since you are to await the arrival of the rear +column. Turn the matter over in your mind while I go to bring the Major +up. You have certainly some weeks before you to consider the question +thoroughly." + +I then showed him the printed Foreign Office despatches furnished to me +by order of Lord Iddesleigh. Among these was a copy of his letter to Sir +John Kirk, wherein he offered the Province in 1886 to England, and stated +that he would be most happy to surrender the Province to the British +Government, or, in fact, any Power that would undertake to maintain the +Province. + +"Ah," said the Pasha, "they should never have published this letter. It +was private. What will the Egyptian Government think of my conduct in +venturing to treat of such a matter?" + +"I cannot see the harm," I replied; "the Egyptian Government declares its +inability to keep the Province, the British Government will have nothing +to do with it, and I do not know of any company or body of men who would +undertake the maintenance of what I regard, under all the circumstances, +as a useless possession. In my opinion it is just 500 miles too far +inland to be of any value, unless Uganda and Unyoro have been first +brought under law; that is, if you persist in declining King Leopold's +offer. If you absolutely decline to serve the King of the Belgians, and +you are resolved to stay in Africa, you must trust in my promise to get a +British Company to employ you and your troops, which probably has by this +time been chartered with the purpose of constituting a British possession +in East Africa." + +----- + [M] The following entries must be read while bearing in mind + that thirty-five days previously the Pasha had written + to the Editor of Petermann's 'Mitteilungen' a letter, + which he concluded with the significant words, "_If + Stanley does not come soon, we are lost_." + + + + +CHAPTER XVI. + +WITH THE PASHA (_continued_). + + + Fortified stations in the Province--Storms at Nsabé--A nest of + young crocodiles--Lake Ibrahim--Zanzibari raid on Balegga + villages--Dr. Parke goes in search of the two missing men--The + Zanzibaris again--A real tornado--The Pasha's gifts to + us--Introduced to Emin's officers--Emin's cattle forays--The + _Khedive_ departs for Mswa station--Mabruki and his wages--The + Pasha and the use of the sextant--Departure of local + chiefs--Arrival of the _Khedive_ and _Nyanza_ steamers with + soldiers--Arrangements made to return in search of the + rear-column--My message to the troops--Our Badzwa road--A farewell + dance by the Zanzibaris--The Madi carriers' disappearance--First + sight of Ruwenzori--Former circumnavigators of the Albert + Lake--Lofty twin-peak mountain near the East Ituri River--Aid for + Emin against Kabba Rega--Two letters from Emin Pasha--We are + informed of an intended attack on us by chiefs Kadongo and + Musiri--Fresh Madi carriers--We attack Kadongo's camp--With + assistance from Mazamboni and Gavira we march on Musiri's camp + which turns out to be deserted--A phalanx dance by Mazamboni's + warriors--Music on the African Continent--Camp at Nzera-kum + Hill--Presents from various chiefs--Chief Musiri wishes for peace. + +_May 4th._--Mswa, I am told, is 9 hours' distance from Nsabé camp by +steamer, thence to Tunguru is 5 hours, and to Wadelai 18 hours. The other +fortified stations are named Fabbo, east of Nile; Dufflé end of +navigation; Horiyu, Laboré, Muggi, Kirri, Bedden, Rejaf, and three or +four small stations inland, west of the Nile. + +He has spoken in a more hopeful tone to-day of the prospects of returning +from the shores of the Albert, the Victoria Lake region appearing even +more attractive than at first. But there is something about it all that I +cannot fathom. + +_May 6th._--Halt at Nsabé. + +Another storm broke out to-day, commencing at 8 A.M., blowing from the +north-east. The previous gales were south-easters, veering to east. +Looking toward the steep slope of the plateau walls east and west of us, +we saw it shrouded in mist and vapour, and rain-clouds ominous of +tempests. The whole face of the Nyanza was foam, spray, and white +rollers, which, as they approached the shore, we saw were separated by +great troughs, very dangerous to any small craft that might be overtaken +by the storm. + +_May 7th._--Halt at Nsabé. + +While at dinner with me this evening, the Pasha informed me that Casati +had expressed himself very strongly against the route proposed to be +taken, _viâ_ Usongora, south, and advised the Pasha to take the Monbuttu +route to the Congo. From which I conclude that the Pasha has been +speaking to Casati about going home. Has he then altered his mind about +the Victoria? + +_May 8th._--Halt at Nsabé. + +Each day has its storm of wind and rain, loud thunder-claps, preceded by +a play of lightning flashes, most beautiful, but terrible. + +Discovered a nest of young crocodiles, thirty-seven in number, having +just issued from their egg-homes. By-the-bye, to those unacquainted with +the fact, a crocodile has five claws on the fore feet, and only four +claws on the hinder. It has been stated that a crocodile raises the upper +jaw to devour, whereas the fact is it depresses the lower jaw like other +animals. + +_May 9th, 10th._--Halt at Nsabé. + +_May 11th._--Food supply is getting low. Five men have wandered off in +search of something, and have not returned since yesterday. I hope we are +not going to be demoralized again. + +Mr. Jephson is suffering from a bilious attack. + +Lake Ibrahim, or Gita Nzige according to the Pasha, is only an expansion +of the Victoria Nile, similar to that below Wadelai and Lake Albert, the +Upper Congo, and Stanley Pool. Consequently it has numerous channels, +separated by lines of islets and sand-bars. Both Gordon and Emin Pasha +have travelled by land along its right bank. + +At 9 P.M. I received dismal intelligence. Four men, whom I observed +playing on the sandy shore of the lake at 4 o'clock, suddenly took it +into their heads to make a raid on some Balegga villages at the foot of +the plateau N.N.W. from here. They were surrounded by the natives, and +two of them seemed to have been killed, while the other two, who escaped, +show severe wounds. + +_May 12th._--Halt at Nsabé. + +This morning sent Doctor Parke with forty-five rifles to hunt up the two +missing men. One of them came in at 9 a.m. after a night spent in the +wilderness. He has a deep gash in the back from a spear that had been +hurled at him. Fortunately it did not penetrate the vital parts. He tells +me he was exchanging meat for flour when he heard rifle shots ahead, and +at once there was general alarm. The natives fled one way and he fled +another, but presently found himself pursued, and received a spear wound +in the back. He managed to outrun the pursuer, until in the deep grass of +watercourse he managed to hide while a number of natives were searching +for him. He lay there all night, and when the sun was up, lifted his head +to take a look round, and seeing no one, made his way to the camp. + +I am never quite satisfied as to the manner of these accidents, whether +the natives or the Zanzibaris are the aggressors. The latter relate with +exceeding plausibility their version of the matter, but they are such +adepts in the art of lying that I am frequently bewildered. The +extraction of the truth in this instance seems to be so hopeless that I +tell them I judge of the matter thus: + +"You Zanzibaris, so long as you receive five or six pounds of flour and +as many pounds of meat daily, become so lazy, you would not go to the +steamer for more to provide rations while she would be absent. She has +been gone now several days, your rations are nearly exhausted, of course, +for who can supply you with as much meat as you can waste, and you left +camp without permission, to steal from the Balegga. There was quite a +party of you, I hear, and most of you, on seeing the village fairly +crowded with natives, were more prudent than others, and traded a little +meat for flour, but your bolder companions passed on, and began to loot +fowls. The natives resented this, shot their arrows at the thieves, who +fired in return, and there was a general flight. One of your number has +been killed. I have lost a rifle, and three more of you have been +wounded, and will be unfit for work for a long time. That is the truth of +the matter, and therefore I shall give you no medicines. Cure your own +wounds if you can, and you three fellows, if you recover, shall pay me +for my rifle. + +_May 13th._--Halt at Nsabé. + +The doctor returned from his quest of the missing without further +incident than burning two small villages and firing a few shots at +distant parties. He was unable to recover the body of the Zanzibari, or +his Winchester rifle. Where he fell was marked with a good deal of blood, +and it is probable that he wounded some of his foes. + +A real tornado blew last night. Inky clouds gathering to the S.E.E. and +N.E. prepared us somewhat for a wet night, but not for the fearful volume +of wind which pressed on us with such solid force as to wreck camp and +lay low the tents. The sound, as it approached, resembled that which we +might expect from the rupture of a dam or the rush from a collapsed +reservoir. The rain, swept by such a powerful force, pierced everywhere. +No precaution that we had been taught by past experience of this Nyanza +weather availed us against the searching, penetrative power of the rain +and its fine spray. From under the huts and tents, and along the ridge +poles, through close shut windows, ventilators, and doors, the tornado +drove the rain in until we were deluged. To contend against such power of +wind and water in a pitchy darkness in the midst of a deafening uproar +was so hopeless a task that our only refuge was to bear it in silence and +with closed lips. Daylight revealed a placid lake, a ragged sky, plateau +tops buried in masses of vapour, a wrecked camp, prostrate tents, and +soaking furniture. So terrible was the roar of the surf that we should +have wished to have viewed the careering rollers and tempestuous face of +the lake by daylight. It is to be hoped that the old _Khedive_ was safely +harboured, otherwise she must have foundered. + +_May 14th._--Halt at Nsabé. + +The steamer _Khedive_ arrived this afternoon, bringing in a supply of +millet grain and a few milch cows. The Pasha came up smiling with welcome +gifts for each of us. To me he gave a pair of stout walking shoes in +exchange for a smaller pair of boots to be given him on my return with +the rear column. Mr. Jephson was made happy with a shirt, a singlet, and +a pair of drawers; while Dr. Parke. whose grand kit had been stolen by an +absconding Zanzibari, received a blue jersey, a singlet, and a pair of +drawers. Each of us also received a pot of honey, some bananas, oranges, +and water melons, onions, and salt. I also received a pound of "Honey dew +Tobacco" and a bottle of pickles. + +These gifts, such as clothes, that our officers have received from Emin +Pasha, reveal that he was not in the extreme distress we had imagined, +and that there was no necessity for the advance to have pressed forward +so hurriedly.[N] We left all our comforts and reserves of clothing +behind at Yambuya, that we might press on to the rescue of one whom we +imagined was distressed not only for want of means of defence from +enemies, but in want of clothing. Besides the double trip we have made to +Lake Albert, I fear I shall have to travel far to go to the rescue of +Major Barttelot and the rear column. God only knows where he is. He may +not have left Yambuya yet, and if so we shall have 1300 miles extra +marching to perform. It is a terribly long march through a forbidding +country, and I fear I shall lose many and many a good soul before it is +ended. However, God's will be done. + +He introduced to me to-day Selim Bey and Major Awash Effendi, and other +officers. I had suggested to him two or three days ago that he could +assist me greatly if he constructed a small station on Nyamsassi Island, +where we would be sure to have easy communication with his people, on +which he also could store a reserve of corn ready for the arrival of the +united Expedition, and he readily promised me. But I confess to +experiencing some wonder to-day when he turned to Awash Effendi, the +Major, and said, rather pleadingly I thought, "Now promise me before Mr. +Stanley that you will give me forty men to build this station, which Mr. +Stanley so much desires." There is something about this that I do not +understand. It is certainly not like my ideal Governor, Vice-King, and +leader of men, to talk in that strain to subordinates. + +Had another conversation with Emin Pasha to-day, from which I feel +convinced that we shall not only have to march to the Albert Nyanza +again, but that we shall have to wait afterwards at least two months +before he can get his people together. Instead of setting to work during +our absence to collect his people and prepare for the journey, it is +proposed to wait until my return with the rear column, when it is +expected I shall go as far as Dufflé to persuade the people to follow me. +He still feels assured his people will not go to Egypt, but may be +induced to march as far as the Victoria Nyanza. + +I asked him if the report was true that he had captured 13,000 head of +cattle during an incursion to the western cattle-lands. + +"Oh, no; it is an exaggeration. A certain Bakhit Bey succeeded in taking +8000 head during a raid he made in Makraka, during Raouf Pasha's +Governor-Generalship; but he was severely censured for the act, as such +wholesale raiding only tended to depopulate a country. That has been the +greatest number of cattle obtained at one time. I have had occasion to +order forays to be made to obtain food, but 1600 head has been the +greatest number we have ever succeeded in obtaining at one time. Other +forays have resulted in bringing us 500, 800, and 1200 head." + +Both yesterday and to-day have been very pleasant. The temperature of air +in shade, according to Fahrenheit, has been as follows:-- + + 9 A.M. Breeze from S.E. 86° + 10.30 A.M. 88°30" + 1.30 P.M. 88°30" + 7 P.M. 76° + Midnight 73° + 6 A.M. 73° + Compensated aneroid. Mean 2·350 feet above sea. + + +_May 16th._--Nsabé Camp. + +The steamer _Khedive_ departed this morning for Mswa Station and Tunguru, +and probably for Wadelai, to hurry up a certain number of porters to +replace our men lost by starvation in the wilderness. Captain Casati and +Mons. Vita Hassan, the Tunisian apothecary, have sailed with her. + +In order to keep my men occupied, I have begun cutting a straight road +through the plain towards Badzwa Village. When we take our departure +hence we shall find our advantage in the shorter cut than by taking the +roundabout path by Nyamsassi Island and the site of old Kavalli. + +Fetteh, our interpreter, wounded in the stomach at the skirmish of Bessé, +is now quite recovered, and is fast regaining his old weight. + +Mabruki, the son of Kassim, so mangled by the buffalo the other day, is +slowly improving. + +The man wounded by a spear in the back during his foray into the villages +of Lando, shows also signs of rapid recovery. + +We live in hay-cock huts now, and may consider ourselves householders +(according to Emin Pasha) of the Albert Nyanza Province. + +_May 17th._--Nsabé Camp. + +Our road is now 2,360 paces long towards Badzwa Village. + +_May 18th._-- Nsabé Camp. + +Our hunters, when receiving cartridges, insist on their being laid on +the ground. Ill luck would follow if the cartridges were delivered to +them from the hand. + +I have been instructing the Pasha in the use of the sextant the last two +days preparatory to taking lessons in navigation. His only surveying +instrument hitherto has been a prismatic compass, and as he has never +been taught to discover its variation, it is probable that his surveys +have been from magnetic bearings. + +The son of Kassim, the victim to the fury of an angry buffalo, called me +this morning to his bedside, that I might register his last wishes +respecting the wages due to him. His friend Maruf and adopted brother +Sungoro are to be the legatees. Poor Mabruki desired to remember another +friend, but the legatees _begged him not to fill the Master's book with +names_. He was so dejected that I told him that the doctor had great +faith that he would recover. "You are in no danger. Your wounds are very +bad, but they are not mortal, and as the Pasha will take care of you in +my absence, I shall find you a strong man when I return. Why do you +grieve to-day?" + +"Ah, it is because something tells me I shall never see the road again. +See, is not my body a ruin?" Indeed he was a pitiable sight, right eye +almost obscured, two ribs broken, right thigh and fork lacerated in the +most dreadful manner. + +The Chief Mbiassi of Kavalli departed homeward two days ago. Mpigwa, +Chief of Nyamsassi, and his retinue left yesterday. Kyya-nkondo or +Katonza, for he has two names, also went his way (which, by the way, is +in the wilderness owing to a late visit of Kabba Rega's brigands), while +Mazamboni's people after entertaining the Pasha and his officers with a +farewell dance last night, took their leave this morning. + +Three buffalo and a water buck were shot yesterday by two of our +hunters. + +The last four days and nights have given us better thoughts of this +African land and lake shore than we previously entertained. The weather +has been somewhat warm, but the lake breeze blowing light and soft, just +strong enough to swing pendulous foliage, has been cooling and grateful. +The nights have been more refreshing. In a sky of radiant brightness the +moon has stood high above the plateau's crown, turning the lake into a +quivering silver plain, the lake surf so blustering and restless, rolls +in a slow and languid cadence on a gray shore of sand before the light +breath of an eastern wind. As if to celebrate and honour this peaceful +and restful life, the Zanzibaris and natives, who, last December were +such furious foes, rival one another with song and chorus and strenuous +dance to a late hour each night. + +[Illustration: THE STEAMERS "KHEDIVE" AND "NYANZA" ON LAKE ALBERT.] + +_May 19th._--Nsabé Camp. + +Our road towards Badzwa is now three and a third miles long. We have but +to hoe up the grass along a line, and we have a beautiful path, with the +almost imperceptible rise of 1 foot in 200. + +_May 20th._--Nsabé Camp. + +Captured two small brown snakes of a slight coppery tint in my tent this +morning. + +_May 21st._--Nsabé Camp. + +The Pasha is now able to read the sextant very well. He has also made an +advance towards finding index error; though he labours under the +infirmity of short sight, he is quick and devoted to his intention of +acquiring the art of observing by the instrument. At noon we took +meridian altitude for practice. He observed altitude was 70° 54' 40" at +one-and-half miles distant, height of eye five feet. Index error to add +3'15". + +_May 22nd._--Nsabé Camp. + +The steamers _Khedive_ and _Nyanza_, the latter towing a lighter, +appeared to-day about 9 A.M., bringing 80 soldiers, with the Major and +Adjutant of the 2nd Battalion, and 130 carriers of the Madi tribe. We +received gifts of raki (ten-gallon demijohn, a kind of Russian vodka, +from the Pasha's distillery, pomegranates, oranges, water-melons, and +more onions, besides six sheep, four goats, and a couple of strong +donkeys, one for myself and one for Doctor Park). The _Nyanza_ steamer is +about 60 feet by 12. I propose leaving the Albert Lake for my journey in +search of the rear column of the Expedition the day after to-morrow. + +I leave with the Pasha, Mr. Mounteney Jephson, three Soudanese soldiers, +and Binza, Doctor Junker's boy, besides the unhappy Mabruki. Of the +baggage we carried here, exclusive of thirty-one cases Remingtons already +delivered, I leave two boxes Winchesters, one box of brass rods, lamp, +and sounding iron; also my steel boat, _Advance_, with her equipments. + +In accordance with the request of the Pasha, I have drawn up a message, +which Mr. Jephson will read to the troops. It is as follows:-- + + Soldiers,--After many months of hard travel, I have at last reached + the Nyanza. I have come expressly at the command of the Khedive + Tewfik, to lead you out of here and show you the way home. For you + must know that the River el Abiad is closed, that Khartoum is in + the hands of the followers of Mohamed Achmet, that the Pasha Gordon + and all his people were killed, and that all the steamers and boats + between Berber and the Bahr-Ghazal have been taken, and that the + nearest Egyptian station to you is Wady Halfa, below Dongola. Four + times the Khedive and your friends have made attempts to save you. + First, Gordon Pasha was sent to Khartoum to bring you all home. + After ten months of hard fighting Khartoum was taken, and Gordon + Pasha was killed, he and his soldiers. Next came the English + soldiers under Lord Wolseley to try and help Gordon Pasha out of + his troubles. They were four days too late, for they found Gordon + was dead and Khartoum was lost. Then a Doctor Lenz, a great + traveller, was sent by way of the Congo to find out how you could + be assisted. But Lenz could not find men enough to go with him, and + so he was obliged to go home. Also a Doctor Fischer was sent by + Doctor Junker's brother, but there were too many enemies in the + path, and he also returned home. I tell you these things to prove + to you that you have no right to think that you have been forgotten + in Egypt. No, the Khedive and his Wazir, Nubar Pasha, have all + along kept you in mind. They have heard by way of Uganda how + bravely you have held to your post, and how stanch you have been to + your duties as soldiers. Therefore they sent me to tell you this; + to tell you that you are well remembered, and that your reward is + waiting for you, but that you must follow me to Egypt to get your + pay and your reward. At the same time the Khedive says to you, + through me, that if you think the road too long, and are afraid of + the journey, that you may stay here, but in that case you are no + longer his soldiers; that your pay stops at once; and in any + trouble that may hereafter befall you, you are not to blame him, + but yourselves. Should you decide to go to Egypt, I am to show you + the way to Zanzibar, put you on board a steamer and take you to + Suez, and thence to Cairo, and that you will get your pay until you + arrive there, and that all promotions given you will be secured, + and all rewards promised you here will be paid in full. + + I send you one of my officers, Mr. Jephson, and give him my sword, + to read this message to you from me. I go back to collect my people + and goods, and bring them on to the Nyanza, and after a few months + I shall come back here to hear what you have to say. If you say, + Let us go to Egypt, I will then show you a safe road. If you say, + We shall not leave this country, then I will bid you farewell and + return to Egypt with my own people. + + May God have you in His keeping. + + Your good friend, + (Signed) Stanley. + +_May 23rd._--Halt. + +The Zanzibaris entertained the Pasha and his officers to-night with a +farewell dance. Though they are quite well aware of the dangers and +fatigue of the journey before them, which will commence to-morrow, there +are no symptoms of misgiving in any of them. But it is certain that some +of them will take their last look of the Pasha to-morrow. + +_May 24th._--March to Badzwa village, 10 miles; performed it in 4 hours. + +Emin Pasha marched a company along our new road at dawn this morning, and +halted it about two miles from the Lake. Having arranged the Madi +carriers in their place in the column, the advance guard issued out from +camp and took the road towards the west at 6.15 A.M. In half-an-hour we +found the Pasha's Soudanese drawn up in line on one side of the road. +They saluted us as we passed on, and the Pasha fervently thanked us and +bade us good-bye. + +At the end of the new road twenty-one of the Madis broke from the line of +the column and disappeared towards the north rapidly. Fourteen men were +sent back to inform the Pasha, while we held on our way to Badzwa. About +a mile from the village there was another stampede, and eighty-nine Madis +deserted in a body, but not without sending a shower of arrows among the +rear guard. The doctor, believing that this was preliminary to an attack +on his small detachment, fired his rifle, and dropped a Madi dead, which +precipitated the flight of the deserters. The remaining nineteen out of +the 130 were secured. + +A second message was therefore sent to the Pasha acquainting him with the +events of the march. + +When about five miles from Nsabé Camp, while looking to the south-east, +and meditating upon the events of the last month, my eyes were directed +by a boy to a mountain said to be covered with salt, and I saw a peculiar +shaped cloud of a most beautiful silver colour, which assumed the +proportions and appearance of a vast mountain covered with snow. +Following its form downward, I became struck with the deep blue-black +colour of its base, and wondered if it portended another tornado; then as +the sight descended to the gap between the eastern and western plateaus, +I became for the first time conscious that what I gazed upon was not the +image or semblance of a vast mountain, but the solid substance of a real +one, with its summit covered with snow. I ordered a halt and examined it +carefully with a field-glass, then took a compass bearing of the centre +of it, and found it bear 215° magnetic. It now dawned upon me that this +must be the Ruwenzori, which was said to be covered with a white metal or +substance believed to be rock, as reported by Kavalli's two slaves. + +This great mountain continued to be in sight most distinctly for two +hours, but as we drew nearer to Badzwa at the foot of the plateau, the +lofty wall of the plateau hid it from view. + +This discovery was announced to the Pasha in the second message I sent. +When I come to reflect upon it, it strikes me as singular that neither +Baker, Gessi, Mason, or Emin Pasha discovered it long ago. + +Gessi Pasha first circumnavigated the Albert Lake, steaming along the +western shore towards the south, rounding the southern end of the lake +and continuing his voyage along the eastern shore. + +Mason Bey, in 1877, is the next visitor, and he follows the track of +Gessi with a view of fixing positions by astronomical observations, which +his predecessor was unable to do. + +Emin Pasha, eleven years later, comes steaming south in quest of news of +the white men reported to be at the south end of the Lake. + +If a fair view of this snowy mountain can be obtained from the plain of +the Nyanza, a much better view ought to be obtained from the Lake, and +the wonder is that none of these gentlemen saw it. Whereas Baker, casting +his eyes in its direction, on a "beautifully clear day," views only an +illimitable Lake. + +Messrs. Jephson and Parke, while carrying the boat from Kavalli's to the +Lake, report that they saw snow on a mountain, and the latter officer, +pointing to the little range of Unya-Kavalli, inquired of me on his +return if it was possible that snow would be found on such hills. As +their highest peak cannot be 5,500 feet above the sea, I replied in the +negative, but the doctor said that he was equally certain that he had +seen snow. I explained to him then that a certain altitude of about +15,000 feet in the Equatorial regions is required before rain can be +congealed into permanent snow; that there might be a hail-storm or a fall +of snow, caused by a cold current, even on low altitudes in a tropic +region, but such cold would only be temporary, and the heat of tropic +waters or tropic soil would in a few moments cause the hail and snow to +disappear. Standing as we were in camp at Bundi, on the crest of the +plateau, in plain view of Unya Kavalli and other hills, there was no +height visible anywhere above 6000 feet of an altitude above the sea. + +Considering the above facts, it will be evident that it requires a +peculiar condition of the atmosphere to enable one to see the mountain +from a distance of 70 miles, which I estimate it at. Near objects, or +those 10, 15, or 20 miles, an ordinarily clear atmosphere may enable us +to distinguish; but in such a humid region as this is, on a bright day +such a quantity of vapour is exhaled from the heated earth, that at 30 +miles it would be intensified into a haze which no eyesight could +penetrate. But at certain times wind-currents clear the haze, and expose +to the view objects which we wonder we have not seen before. As, for +instance, in December last, returning from Nyanza to Fort Bodo, I took +compass bearings of a lofty twin-peak mountain from a table hill near the +East Ituri River. I noted it down that the twin-peak mass was already +seen, and I pointed it out to Mr. Jephson. Strange to say, I have never +seen it since, though I have been twice over the ground. + +Kavalli passed our camp this afternoon with 400 men to assist Emin Pasha +in a demonstration he proposes to make against Kabba Rega. Katonza and +Mpigwa of Nyamsassi will also, perhaps, lend an equal number to his +assistance. + +I received the following letters to-day from the Pasha. When he talks of +pride and joy at being in our company, I think we are all unanimous in +believing that he has given us as much pleasure as we have given him. + + Nsabé Camp, + _25th May, 1888_, 5 A.M. + + Dear Sir, + + I should not need to tell you how distressed I have been when I + heard of the misfortune happened by the desertion of our Madi + people. I at once sent out different searching parties, but I am + sorry to state that up to noon their efforts were of no avail, + although Shukri Agha and his party, who went yesterday to Kahanama, + have not returned. + + By a mere chance it happened that when Dr. Parke came a boat from + Mswa station had arrived, bringing me intelligence of the arrival + there of 120 porters from Dufflé. I therefore started immediately + the _Khedive_ steamer to bring them here, and expect her back this + very night, when, at her arrival, I shall start the whole gang, + accompanied by a detachment of my people. + + Allow me to be the first to congratulate you on your most splendid + discovery of a snow-clad mountain. We will take it as a good omen + for further directions on our road to Victoria.[O] I propose to + go out on your track to-day or to-morrow, just to have a look at + this giant. + + In expectance of two words of you this morning I venture to offer + you my best wishes for the future. I always shall remember with + pride and joy the few days I was permitted to consort with you. + + Believe me, dear Sir, + + Yours very sincerely, + (Signed) Dr. M. Emin. + + + Nsabé Camp, + _26th May, 1888_, 2:30 A.M. + + Dear Sir, + + Your very welcome and most interesting note of yesterday has + reached me at the hands of your men. The steamer has come in this + very instant, but she brought only eighty-two carriers, the rest + having run away on the road between Tunguru and Mswa. I send, + therefore, these few men, accompanied by twenty-five soldiers and + an officer, hoping they may be of some use to you. Their arms + having been collected I handed them to the officer, from whom you + will kindly receive them. We heard yesterday evening that your + runaways had worked their way to Muganga, telling the people they + were sent by me. + + The ten men you kindly sent here accompanying the carriers as well + as Kavalli and his men. Having caught yesterday a spy of + Ravidongo[P] in Katonza's Camp, I told this latter he would + better retire, and he acted on this advice. I have acquainted + Kavalli with my reasons for not interfering just now with + Ravidongo, and have asked him to return to you. He readily + assented; he had some presents, and starts now with the courier. He + entreats me, further, to beg you to send some of your men to take + hold of his brother Kadongo, who stays, says he, with the Wawitu + somewhere near to his residence. + + I shall try hard to get a glimpse of the new snow mountain, as well + from here as from some other points I propose to visit. It is + wonderful to think how, wherever you go, you distance your + predecessors by your discoveries. + + And now as this, for some time at least, is probably the last word + I will be able to address you, let me another time thank you for + the generous exertions you have made, and you are to make for us. + Let me another time thank you for the kindness and forbearance you + have shown me in our mutual relations. If I cannot find adequate + words to express what moves me in this instant you will forgive me. + I lived too long in Africa for not becoming somewhat negrofied. + + God speed you on your course and bless your work! + + Yours very faithfully, + + (Signed) Dr. Emin. + +_May 25th and 26th._--Halt at Badzwa. The Pasha has abandoned his idea of +making a demonstration against Unyoro, and his allies, who have much to +avenge, have been quickly dismissed homeward. + +In the afternoon Balegga descended from Bundi Hill Village, and secretly +informed us that Kadongo and Musiri--the latter a warlike and powerful +chief--have banded their forces together and intend to attack us on the +road between Gavira's and Mazamboni's. We have given neither of them any +cause for this quarrel, unless our friendship with their rivals may be +deemed sufficient and legitimate. I have only 111 rifles and ten rounds +of ammunition for each rifle, to reach Fort Bodo, 125 miles distant. If +any determined attack is made on us in the open country, a few moments' +firing will make us helpless. Therefore I shall have to resort to other +measures. It was held by Thomas Carlyle that it was the highest wisdom to +know and believe that the stern thing which necessity ordered to be done +was the wisest, the best, and the only thing wanted there. I will attack +Kadongo first, and then march straight upon Musiri, and we will spend our +last shots well, if necessary. It may be this bold movement will upset +the combination. + +The Pasha has acted quickly. Eighty-two fresh carriers arrived at noon, +under a strong guard, and three soldiers specially detailed to accompany +me. On their delivery to us, each Zanzibari received a Madi to guard. At +half-past three in the afternoon we commenced the steep ascent up the +terrible slope of the plateau, with a burning sun in our front, and +reached the crest at Bundi camp at 6.30 P.M., a half-hour after sunset. + +After placing strong guards round the camp, I selected a band of forty +rifles of the choicest men under two Zanzibari chiefs, and prepared them +for a surprise party to attack Kadongo's camp by night. A few of our +native allies volunteered to show the hill village he was occupying. + +At 1 A.M. the party was despatched. + +_May 27th._--At 8 A.M. the party detailed against Kadongo returned, +having effected their mission most successfully, but Kadongo himself +escaped by crying out that he was a friend of "Bula Matari." No cattle +or goats were taken, because the place was only occupied by Kadongo's +band for temporary purposes. + +We then lifted our burdens and began our march towards Gavira's. We had +barely started when we discovered a large band of men advancing towards +us, preceded by a man bearing a crimson flag, which at a distance might +be taken for that of Zanzibar or Egypt. We halted, wondering what party +this might be, but in a few moments we recognised Katto, Mazamboni's +brother, who had been sent by his chief to greet us and learn our +movements. We admired the aptness of these people in so soon learning to +follow the direction given to them, for had not the flag held us in +suspense, we might have injured our friends by taking them for the van of +Musiri's war-party. + +Retaining a few of them to follow us, I ordered Katto to return quickly +to Mazamboni, his brother, and secretly inform him that as Musiri +intended to attack us on the road, I intended to attack him at dawn the +day after to-morrow, and that I expected from Mazamboni, as my ally, that +he would bring as many men as he could sometime that next day. Katto +declared the thing possible, though it was a short notice for the +distance to be travelled. We were at the time six miles from Gavira's, +thence to Mazamboni's village was thirteen miles, and back again to +Gavira's would be another thirteen miles, and in the meantime some delay +would be necessary to secretly muster a sufficient body of warriors +becoming Mazamboni's rank, and prepare rations for a few days. + +We arrived at Gavira's about noon. Here I proposed to Gavira to join me +in the attack, which the chief as readily promised. + +_May 28th._--Halt. We have received abundant contributions of food for +our force, which numbers now 111 Zanzibaris, 3 whites, 6 cooks and boys, +101 Madis, and 3 soldiers belonging to the Pasha--total 224, exclusive of +a few dozen natives who voluntarily follow us. + +An hour after sunset Mazamboni arrived in person with about 1000 +warriors armed with bows and spears. His force was camped in the potato +fields between Gavira's and Musiri's district. + +_May 29th._--At three o'clock a.m. we set out for Usiri on a N.W. road, a +bright moon lighting the way. About 100 of the boldest of Mazamboni's +corps preceded our force. The others fell in line behind, and Gavira's +tribe, represented by about 500 men, brought up the rear. A deep silence, +befitting our purpose, prevailed. + +At 6 A.M. we reached the outskirts of Usiri, and in a few moments, each +chief having received his instructions, Dr. Parke, in charge of sixty +rifles to keep the centre, Katto, in charge of his brother's warriors to +form the left wing, and Mpinga and Gavira with his men to form the right, +the attacking force moved on swiftly. + +The results were ludicrous in the extreme. Mpinga's Wahuma herdsmen had +given notice to Musiri's Wahuma herdsmen, and Mazamboni's Wahuma had been +just as communicative to their fellow-countrymen with the enemy. +Consequently the herdsmen had driven all the herds from Usiri by other +roads; a half of them arrived at Gavira's, and the other half at +Mazamboni's, just at the same morning when the attacking force poured +over the land of Usiri, and Musiri, the chief, after hearing of the +disaster to Kadongo, and of the mighty army to be brought against him, +took tender care that not one soul under his sway should be injured. The +land was quite empty of people, herds, flocks, and fowls, but the +granaries were heaped full of grain, the fields exhibited abundant crops +of potatoes, beans, young Indian corn, vegetables, and tobacco. I am +secretly glad of the bloodless termination of the affair. My object has +been gained. We have saved our extremely scanty supply of ammunition, and +the road is clear from further trouble. Mazamboni and Gavira, I believe, +were also delighted, though they expressed themselves mortified. + +In one of the huts was discovered the barrel of a carbine and percussion +lock. The latter bore the brand of "John Clive III., 530." This is a +relic of Kabba Rega's visit, whose men were sadly defeated by Musiri +about a year ago. + +In the afternoon Mazamboni's warriors, 1000 strong, joined to celebrate +the bloodless victory over Musiri in a phalanx dance. Dancing in Africa +mainly consists of rude buffoonery, extravagant gestures, leaping and +contortions of the body, while one or many drums keep time. There is +always abundance of noise and loud laughter, and it serves the purpose of +furnishing amusement to the barbarians, as the dervish-like whirling and +pirouetting give to civilised people. Often two men step out of a +semicircle of their fellow villagers, and chant a duet to the sound of a +drum or a horn amid universal clapping of hands, or one performs a solo +while dressed most fantastically in cocks' feathers, strings of rattling +gourds, small globular bells, and heaps of human, monkey, and crocodile +teeth, which are the African jewels; but there must always be a chorus, +the grander the better, and when the men, women, and children lift their +voices high above the drums, and the chatter and murmur of the crowd, I +must confess to having enjoyed it immensely, especially when the +Wanyamwezi are the performers, who are by far the best singers on the +African continent. The Zanzibaris, Zulus, Waiau, Wasegara, Waseguhha, and +Wangindo are in the main very much alike in method and execution, though +they have each minor dances and songs, which vary considerably, but they +are either dreadfully melancholiac or stupidly barbarous. The Wasoga, +Waganda, Wakerewé, Wazongora, around Lake Victoria, are more subdued, a +crude bardic, with something of the whine of the Orient--Mustapha, or +Hussein, or Hassan, moaning below lattices to the obdurate Fatima or +stony-eared Roxana. Except the Wanyamwezi, I have not heard any music or +seen any dance which would have pleased an English audience accustomed to +the plantation dances represented in a certain hall in Piccadilly until +this day, when the Bandussuma, under Katto, the brother of Mazamboni, led +the chief warriors to the phalanx dance. Half a score of drums, large and +small, had been beaten by half a score of accomplished performers, +keeping admirable time, and emitting a perfect volume of sound which must +have been heard far away for miles, and in the meantime Katto, and his +cousin Kalengé, adorned with glorious tufts of white cocks' feathers, +were arranging thirty-three lines of thirty-three men each as nearly as +possible in the form of a perfect and solid and close square. Most of +these men had but one spear each, others possessed two besides their +shields and quivers, which were suspended from the neck down the back. + +The phalanx stood still with spears grounded until, at a signal from the +drums, Katto's deep voice was heard breaking out into a wild triumphant +song or chant, and at a particular uplift of note raised his spear, and +at once rose a forest of spears high above their heads, and a mighty +chorus of voices responded, and the phalanx was seen to move forward, and +the earth around my chair, which was at a distance of fifty yards from +the foremost line, shook as though there was an earthquake. I looked at +the feet of the men and discovered that each man was forcefully stamping +the ground, and taking forward steps not more than six inches long, and +it was in this manner that the phalanx moved slowly but irresistibly. The +voices rose and fell in sweeping waves of vocal sound, the forest of +spears rose and subsided, with countless flashes of polished iron blades +as they were tossed aloft and lowered again to the hoarse and exciting +thunder of the drums. There was accuracy of cadence of voice and roar of +drum, there was uniform uplift and subsidence of the constantly twirling +spear blades, there was a simultaneous action of the bodies, and as they +brought the tremendous weight of seventy tons of flesh with one regular +stamp of the feet on the ground, the firm and hard earth echoed the sound +round about tremulously. With all these the thousand heads rose and +drooped together, rising when venting the glorious volume of energy, +drooping with the undertone of wailing murmur of the multitude. As they +shouted with faces turned upward and heads bent back to give the fullest +effect to the ascending tempest of voices, suggestive of quenchless +fury, wrath and exterminating war, it appeared to inflate every soul with +the passion of deadly battle and every eye of the onlookers glowed +luridly, and their right arms with clenched fists were shaken on high as +though their spirits were thrilled with the martial strains; but as the +heads were turned and bowed to the earth we seemed to feel war's agony, +and grief, and woe, to think of tears, and widows' wails, and fatherless +orphans' cries, of ruined hearths and a desolated land. But again as the +mass, still steadily drawing nearer, tossed their heads backward, and the +bristling blades flashed and clashed, and the feathers streamed and gaily +rustled, there was a loud snort of defiance and such an exulting and +energising storm of sound that man saw only the glorious colours of +victory and felt only the proud pulses of triumph. + +Right up to my chair the great solid mass of wildly chanting natives +advanced, and the front line lowered their spears in an even line of +bright iron; thrice they dropped their salute and thrice they rose, and +then the lines, one after another, broke into a run, spears clenched in +the act of throwing, staffs quivering, war-whoops ringing shrilly. The +excitement was intensified until the square had been transformed into +wheeling circles three deep, and after three circlings round the open +plaza, Prince Katto took his position, and round him the racing men +coiled themselves until soon they were in a solid circle. When this was +completed the square was formed, it was divided into halves, one half +returning to one end, the other half to the other end. Still continuing +the wild chant, they trotted towards one another and passed through +without confusion, exchanging sides, and then once more in a rapid +circling of the village common with dreadful gestures until the eye was +bewildered with the wheeling forms, and then every man to his hut to +laugh and jest, little heeding what aspects they had conjured by their +evolutions and chants within me, or any one else. It was certainly one of +the best and most exciting exhibitions I had seen in Africa. + +[Illustration: A PHALANX DANCE BY MAZAMBONI'S WARRIORS.] + +_May 30th._--March to Nzera-Kum Hill in Ndusuma, three hours. + +We marched to Mazamboni's country to our old camp at Chongo, which name +the Zanzibaris have given to the hill of Nzera-Kum, and we had abundant +evidence that Mazamboni was deeply implicated in the acts of the Wahuma +herdsmen, for the track was fresh and large of many a fine herd of +cattle. Presently we came in sight of the fine herds, who, all +unconscious of trouble, were browsing on the fine pasture, and the +Zanzibaris clamoured loudly for permission to capture them. For an +instant only there was a deep silence, but Mazamboni, on being asked the +reason for the presence of Musiri's herds on his territory, answered so +straightforwardly that they belonged to the Wahuma who had fled from his +territory last December when he was in trouble with us, and now to avoid +the same trouble in Usiri had returned to their former place, and he had +not the heart to prevent them, that the order was given to move on. + +_May 31st._--Halt. Mazamboni gave us a present of three beeves and +supplied our people with two days full rations of flour, besides a large +quantity of potatoes and bananas. A large number of small chiefs from the +surrounding districts paid visits to us, each bringing into camp a +contribution of goats, fowls, and millet flour. Urumangwa, Bwessa, and +Gunda have also made pacts of friendship with us. These villages form the +very prosperous and extensively cultivated district which so astonished +us by its abundance one December morning last year. + +Towards evening I received a communication from Musiri, saying that as +all the land had made peace with me, he wished to be reckoned as my +friend, and that the next time I should return to the country he would be +prepared with suitable gifts for us. + +As to-morrow I propose to resume the journey towards Fort Bodo and +Yambuya, let me set down what I have gleaned from the Pasha respecting +himself. + +----- + [N] Yet, Emin Pasha wrote a letter on the 25th March, 1888, + to the Editor of Petermann's Magazine, fifty days + previously, which he concluded with the words, "If + Stanley does not come soon, we are lost." + + [O] It is clear that he was smitten with the Victoria Lake + proposition. + + [P] Ravidongo, one of the principal generals of Kabba Rega. + + + + +CHAPTER XVII. + +PERSONAL TO THE PASHA. + + + Age and early days of Emin Pasha--Gordon and the pay of Emin + Pasha--Last interview with Gordon Pasha in 1877--Emin's last supply + of ammunition and provisions--Five years' isolation--Mackay's + library in Uganda--Emin's abilities and fitness for his + position--His linguistic and other attainments--Emin's + industry--His neat journals--Story related to me by Shukri Agha + referring to Emin's escape from Kirri to Mswa--Emin confirms the + story--Some natural history facts related to me by Emin--The Pasha + and the Dinka tribe--A lion story--Emin and "bird studies." + +It is not my purpose to make a biographical sketch of Emin Pasha, but to +furnish such items of information as he delivered them to me, day by day, +concerning the life he has led in the Soudan, and his acquaintance with +his illustrious chief--the ever-lamented Gordon. + +By birth he is a German, but whether Austrian or Prussian I know not, and +I have no curiosity to know the name of the obscure village or town where +that event happened. He declares he is forty-eight years old, and must +therefore have been born in the year 1840. I fancy that he must have been +young when he arrived in Constantinople, that some great man assisted him +in his medical studies, that through the same influence probably he +entered the Turkish service, and became medical attendant on Ismail Hakki +Pasha. If for thirty years he has served under the crescent flag as he +himself reported, he must have begun his service in Turkey in the year +1858. He became attracted to the "Young Turk" party, or to the reform +party, in Stamboul. It had an organ, which, by its bold advocacy of +reform, was three times suppressed by the authorities. On the last +suppression he was expelled from the country. + +He admits that he was in Constantinople when the assassination of the +Sultan Abdul Aziz occurred, though he was absent during the trial of +those suspected to be concerned in it. Coming to Egypt in December, 1875, +he entered the Egyptian service, and was despatched to Khartoum. + + * * * * * + +"Gordon first appointed me as surgeon at £25 a month. He then raised me +to £30, and after my mission to Uganda he surprised me with increasing my +pay to £40, but when I became Governor of this Province my pay like other +Provincial Governors' became £50 monthly. What the pay of a General is I +do not know, but then I am only a 'Miraman,' a kind of civilian Pasha, +who receives pay while employed, but immediately his services are not +required he becomes unpaid. I expected to be made a military Pasha--a +General of Division." + + * * * * * + +"Now Gordon appointed the German Vice-Consul at Khartoum as my agent, to +receive my pay, without any advice from me about it. For several months I +believe it was paid to him regularly. But finally Gordon appointed the +same Vice-Consul Governor of Darfour, when he shortly after died. When +his effects were collected and his small debts paid, there were found +sufficient funds to present his wife with £500 and send her to Cairo, and +to transfer £50 to my account as his principal creditor. A few months +afterwards Khartoum fell, and what money had been deposited there after +the Vice-Consul's death was lost of course. So that for eight years I +have received no pay at all." + + * * * * * + +"My last interview with Gordon Pasha was in 1877. There had been an +Expedition sent to Darfour, under Colonel Prout, and another under +Colonel Purdy, for survey work. When Gordon became Governor-General, he +requested Stone Pasha, at Cairo, to despatch to him one of these +officers, for survey work in the Equatorial Province. Gessi Pasha had +already circumnavigated the Albert, but his survey was by compass only. +Both Prout Bey and Mason Bey were capital observers. Prout Bey was the +first to arrive. He travelled from Lado to Fatiko, thence to Mruli, on +the Victoria Nile, and from there he proceeded to Magungo, on the Albert +Nyanza, and by a series of observations he fixed the position of that +point for all time. Illness compelled him to retire to my station at +Lado. Just then Mason Bey arrived in a steamer, to survey the Albert +Lake, and by that steamer I received an order to descend to Khartoum, to +be made Governor of Massowah, on the Red Sea. The French Consul of that +place had a misunderstanding with the civil Governor there, and he had +begged that if another Governor was appointed, he should be some person +who could understand French. I suppose Gordon, knowing me to be familiar +with the language, had elected me. On reaching Khartoum I was very +cordially received by Gordon, and he insisted on my taking my meals with +him, which was a great favour, as he seldom invited anybody to eat with +him. However, I declined living in the palace, and breakfasted at home, +but lunch and dinner Gordon insisted I should take with him. He had +abundance of work for me--letters to the Egyptian Pashas and Beys of the +various provinces; letters to the Catholic Mission of Gondokoro; letters +to the Pope, to the Khedive, &c., in Italian, German, and Arabic. This +went on for some time, when one day he sent me on a mission to Unyoro. A +little later I ascended the river, and I have never seen Gordon since." + + * * * * * + +"In June, 1882, Abdul Kader Pasha wrote me that in a couple of months he +would despatch a steamer to me with provisions and ammunition. After +waiting nine months I obtained fifteen cases only of ammunition, in +March, 1883. That is really the last supply of anything received from +the outside world until your recent arrival in April, 1888. Five years +exactly!" + + * * * * * + +"During five years I have remained isolated in this region; not idle, I +hope. I have been kept busy in the affairs of my Province, and have +managed to find pleasure in many things. Still, the isolation from the +civilized world has made life rather burthensome. I could enjoy life here +to the end, could I but obtain regular news, and was certain of +communication with the outer world, receive books, periodicals, every +month, two months, or even three months. I envy those missionaries in +Uganda who receive their monthly packet of letters, newspapers and books. +Mr. Mackay has quite a library in Uganda. That packet of "honey-dew" +tobacco I gave you the other day I obtained from him. I received also a +couple of bottles of liquor, have had clothes, writing paper, and such +news as I know I discovered in the _Spectators_ and _Times_ now and then +sent me by him. But there are certain books upon subjects which I am +interested in that I could never obtain through him without giving him +and his friends far too great a trouble. Therefore I should wish a postal +service of my own, then my life would be relieved of its discontent. Ah, +those eight years of silence! I cannot put my feelings in words. I could +not endure them again." + + * * * * * + +I have already described his person and age, and certain qualities of his +character may be discerned in the conversation reported above; still, the +man would be scarcely understood in the full compass of his nature if I +stopped here. His abilities, and capacity, and fitness for the singular +position in which he has been placed will be seen in the manner in which +he has managed to clothe many of his troops. Among the gifts he pressed +upon us were pieces of cotton cloth woven by his own men, coarse but +strong, and slippers and shoes from his own bootmakers. The condition of +his steamers and boats after such long service, the manufacture of oil +suitable for the engines (a mixture of sesamum oil and tallow), the +excellent sanitary arrangements and cleanliness and order of the stations +under his charge, the regular and ungrudging payment of corn tribute +twice a year by his negro subjects, all serve to demonstrate a unique +character, and to show that he possesses talents rarely seen in those who +select Africa for their field of labour. In endeavouring to estimate him, +I pass in mental review hundreds of officers who have served on the Nile +and the Congo, and I know of but few who would be equal to him in any one +of his valuable qualities. Besides his linguistic attainments, he is a +naturalist, something of a botanist, and, as a surgeon, I can well +believe that thirty years of an adventurous life such as his has been +would furnish him with rare opportunities to make him wise and skilful in +his profession. The language he has used, as may be seen above, is +something higher than colloquial, and marks his attainments in English. +With his full sonorous voice and measured tones, it sounded very +pleasantly, despite the foreign accent. Upon any policy treated of in +newspapers and reviews I found him exceedingly well informed, no matter +what country was broached. His manner is highly courteous and +considerate, somewhat, perhaps, too ceremonious for Central Africa, but +highly becoming a Governor, and such as one might expect from an official +of that rank, conscious of serious responsibilities. + +Industry seems to be a vital necessity of life with him. He is a model of +painstaking patient effort. No sooner has he camped than he begins to +effect arrangements orderly and after method. His table and chair have +their place, his journals on the table, the aneroids on a convenient +stand, dry and wet bulb thermometers duly exposed in the shade, with ample +air-flow about them. The journals are marvels of neatness--blotless, and +the writing microscopically minute, as though he aimed at obtaining a +prize for accuracy, economy, neatness and fidelity. Indeed, most Germans +of my acquaintance are remarkable for the bulk of their observations and +super-fine caligraphy, while English-speaking travellers whom I have +known possess note-books which, useful as they may be to themselves, +would appear ill-kept, blotchy and scrawly in comparison to them, and +furnish infinite trouble to their executors to edit. + + * * * * * + +The following will illustrate something of his troubles during the five +years he has been cut off from headquarters at Khartoum. + +Shukri Agha, Commandant of Mswa station, who paid me a visit on the +evening of the 19th May, relates that about a year ago 190 rifles of the +First Battalion set out from Rejaf Station for Kirri, where the Pasha +resided, with the intent to capture and hold him captive among +themselves. A letter had been received from Dr. Junker from Cairo, +stating that an expedition was to be sent to their relief, had created a +confused impression in the minds of the soldiers of the First Battalion +that their Governor intended to fly in that direction, leaving them to +their fate. Convinced that their safety lay in the presence of their +Civil Governor among them, they conceived the idea of arresting him and +taking him with them to Rejaf, which, with the more northern stations, +was garrisoned by this battalion. "For," said they, "we know only of one +road, and that leads down the Nile by Khartoum."[Q] The Pasha was +suddenly informed of their intention by the officers of the Second +Battalion, and cried out, "Well, if they kill me, I am not afraid of +death; let them come--I will await them." This the officers of the Second +Battalion at Kirri would not permit, and implored him to make his escape +before the malcontents appeared, and argued that "the violent capture and +detention of the Governor would put an end to all government, and be the +total ruin of all discipline." For some time he refused to move, but +finally, yielding to their solicitations, escaped to Mswa. Soon after his +departure the detachment of the First Battalion appeared, and, after +surrounding the station, cried out a peremptory demand that the Governor +should come out and deliver himself to them. They were answered that the +Governor had already departed south to Muggi and Wadelai, upon which the +mutineers advanced to the station, and seized the Commandant and his +subordinate officials, and soundly flogged them with the kurbash, and +afterwards took most of them prisoners and carried them to Rejaf, whither +they returned. + +Shukri Agha continued thus:--"You must know that all the First Battalion +guard the northern stations, and every soldier of that battalion is +opposed to making any retreat, and any suggestion of leaving their watch +post at Rejaf, the northernmost station, only makes them indignant. They +have been all along waiting to hear of the arrival of a steamer at Lado, +and are still firm in the belief that some day the Pasha at Khartoum will +send for them. Whatever the Pasha says to the contrary receives utter +disbelief. But now that you have arrived by an opposite road, and some of +us who were with Linant Bey in 1875 saw you in Uganda, and many more of +us have known you by name, it is most likely all of them will be +convinced that the Nile is not the only road to Egypt, and that you, +having found them, can take them out of the country. They will see your +officers, they will see your Soudanese, they will listen respectfully to +your message, and gladly obey. That is my own opinion, though God only +knows what the sentiments of the First Battalion are by this time, as +sufficient time has not elapsed to enable us to hear from them." + + * * * * * + +On telling Emin Pasha the next day the story of Shukri Agha, he said:-- + +"Shukri Agha is a very intelligent and brave officer, promoted to his +present rank for distinguished service against Karamalla, one of the +Mahdi's generals, when he came here with some thousands to demand our +surrender to the authority of Mohamed Achmet." + +"His story is quite true, except that he has omitted to mention that with +the 190 rifles of the First Battalion there were 900 armed negroes. +Subsequently I learned that it had been their intention to have taken me +to Gondokoro, and detain me there until the garrisons of the southern +stations, Wadelai, Tunguru, and Mswa, were collected, and then to have +marched along the right bank towards Khartoum. On reaching the +neighbourhood of Khartoum, and there learning that the city had really +fallen, they were then to disperse, each to his own house, leaving the +Cairenes and myself to shift as we might for ourselves."[R] + + * * * * * + +The following are some natural history facts he related to me:-- + +"The forest of Msongwa (see map) is infested with a large tribe of +chimpanzees. In summer time, at night, they frequently visit the +plantations of Mswa station to steal the fruit. But what is remarkable +about this is the fact that they use torches to light the way! Had I not +witnessed this extraordinary spectacle personally I should never have +credited that any of the Simians understood the art of making fire." + +"One time these same chimpanzees stole a native drum from the station, +and went away pounding merrily on it. They evidently delight in that +drum, for I have frequently heard them rattling away at it in the silence +of the night." + +He observed that parrots are never seen along the shores of Lake Albert. +Up to lat. 2° N. they are seen in Unyoro, but the Lake people do not seem +to understand what is referred to when parrots are mentioned. + +Our people captured a pair of very young mongoose, which were taken to +the Pasha. They were accepted, and ordered to be nursed on milk. He +declared that the mongoose, though he becomes very tame and is +exceedingly droll, is a nuisance. Instruments are broken, ink scattered, +papers and books are smeared and soiled by this inquisitive little beast. +To eggs it is especially destructive. If it finds an egg of more than +ordinary hard shell, it lifts it with its fore-feet and lets it drop +until it is broken. + +The Pasha has much to say respecting the Dinkas. Proprietors of cattle +among the Dinka tribe own from 300 to 1500 head. They rarely kill, their +cattle being kept solely for their milk and blood. The latter they mix +with sesamum oil, and then eat as a delicacy. At the death of a +herd-owner his nearest kinsman invites his friends, and one or two beeves +may be slaughtered for the funeral feast; otherwise one scarcely ever +hears of a Dinka killing his cattle for meat. Should one of the herd die +a natural death, the love of meat demands that it be eaten, which is a +proof that conscience does not prohibit satisfying the stomach with meat, +but rather excessive penuriousness, cattle being the Dinka's wealth. + +These Dinkas also pay great reverence to pythons and all kinds of snakes. +One of the Soudanese officers killed a snake, and was compelled to pay a +fine of four goats. They even domesticate them, keeping them in their +houses, but they are allowed every liberty, and to crawl out for prey, +after which they return for rest and sleep. They wash the pythons with +milk and anoint them with butter. In almost every hut the smaller snakes +may be heard rustling in the roofs as they crawl, exploring for rats, +mice, etc. + +On the east side of the Nile he found a tribe exceedingly partial to +lions; in fact, one of them would prefer to be killed than be guilty of +the death of a lion. These people dug a pit at one time for buffaloes and +such game to fall into, but it unfortunately happened that a lion was the +first victim. The Soudanese who discovered it were about to kill it, when +the chief vetoed the act and implored that the lion should be given to +him. The Soudanese were willing enough, and curiously watched what he +would do with it. The chief cut a long stout pole and laid it slantwise +to the bottom of the pit, up which the lion immediately climbed and +bounded away to the jungle to enjoy his liberty. It should be added that +the noble beast did not attempt to injure any person near the +pit--probably he was too frightened; though as pretty a story might be +made out of it as that of Androcles and the lion, did we not live in such +a veracious and prosaic age. + +"Bird studies," the gray-haired lieutenant from Cairo declared, were the +Pasha's delight. Indeed, he seems to find as great pleasure in anything +relating to birds or animals as in his military and civil duties, though +I have not observed any neglect of the last, and the respectful soldierly +bearing of his people in his presence marks a discipline well impressed +on them. + + * * * * * + +From the above gleanings of such conversation as I have noted it will be +clear to any one that the Pasha has had a varied life, one that would +furnish to quiet home-keeping people much valuable and enchanting reading +matter. It may be hoped he will see fit some day to exhibit to them in +book form some of his startling life incidents in Asia and Africa, and +rehearse in his own pleasing manner some of the most interesting +observations he has made during a long residence amid a new and wild +nature. + +----- + [Q] The correspondence these people maintained with Khartoum + compel me to doubt whether this is the correct reason. + Read Omar Sale's letter to the Khalifa at Khartoum, + farther on. + + [R] Knowing this, the Pasha seems to me to have been very + imprudent in adventuring into the presence of these + rebels without satisfying himself as to the effect his + presence would have on them. + + + + +CHAPTER XVIII. + +START FOR THE RELIEF OF THE REAR COLUMN. + + + Escorted by various tribes to Mukangi--Camp at Ukuba + village--Arrival at Fort Bodo--Our invalids in Ugarrowwa's + care--Lieutenant Stairs' report on his visit to bring up the + invalids to Fort Bodo--Night visits by the malicious dwarfs--A + general muster of the garrison--I decide to conduct the Relief + Force in person--Captain Nelson's ill-health--My little fox-terrier + "Randy"--Description of the fort--The Zanzibaris--Estimated time to + perform the journey to Yambuya and back--Lieutenant Stairs' + suggestion about the steamer _Stanley_--Conversation with + Lieutenant Stairs in reference to Major Barttelot and the Rear + Column--Letter of instructions to Lieutenant Stairs. + +On the 1st of June, escorted by a score of Mazamboni's people, we marched +westward from Undussuma. In an hour and a half we reached Urumangwa. This +district furnished an escort of about a hundred, the Mazambonis +withdrawing to their homes. At Unyabongo, after a two hours' march, the +people of Urumangwa likewise withdrew, yielding their honourable duties +to the people of the new district, and these escorted us for an hour and +a half, and saw us safely housed and abundantly fed at Mukangi. For a +short time before the latter place we were drawn up in battle array, and +a fight was imminent, but the courage and good sense of its chief enabled +both parties to avoid a useless rupture. + +A good example has its imitators as well as bad examples. The chiefs of +Wombola and Kametté heard how quickly we had embraced the friendly offers +of Mukangi, and when we marched through their districts the next day not +one war-cry was heard or a hostile figure appeared. Those of Kametté +called out to us to keep on our way, it is true, but it was just, as we +had no business in Kametté, and the day was yet young; but on our arrival +at the next village, Ukuba, we were tired, and disposed to rest after a +five hours' march. But Ukuba, of Bessé district, had already experienced +our weapons on the 12th April last, and we were permitted to camp +quietly. At sunset we were gratified at seeing several of the natives +walking unarmed to camp, and in the morning they came again with presents +of a milch goat, some fowls, and enough plantains for all. + +On the 3rd we pressed on rapidly, and captured the canoes to ferry our +party across the Ituri, which, though there had been but little rain of +late, we found to be as full as in rainy April. + +On the next day we captured a woman of Mandé after crossing the river, +and released her to tell her people that we were harmless enough if the +road was undisturbed. It may extend the area over which peace between us +and the natives is established. + +On the 5th we camped at Baburu, and on the next day at W. Indenduru. On +the 7th a seven hours' march brought us to a stream called Miwalé River, +from the great number of raphia palms; and the next day we entered Fort +Bodo, bringing with us six head of cattle, a flock of sheep and goats, a +few loads of native tobacco, four gallons of the Pasha's whisky, and some +other little luxuries, to joy the hearts of the garrison. + +Such an utter silence prevails in the forest that we were mutually +ignorant of each other's fate during our sixty-seven days' separation. +Until we approached within 400 yards of Fort Bodo we could not divine +what had become of Lieutenant Stairs, who, it will be remembered, had +been despatched on the 16th February to Ugarrowwa's to conduct such +convalescents as could be found there to us to share in such fortune as +might happen to us in the open country, whose very view had proved so +medicinable to our men. Nor could the garrison guess what luck had +happened to us. But when our rifles woke up the sleeping echoes of the +forest with their volleys, the sounds had scarcely died away before the +rifles of the garrison responded, and as we knew that Fort Bodo still +existed, those immured within the limits of the clearing became aware +that we had returned from the Nyanza. + +Lieutenant Stairs was first to show himself and hail us, and close after +him Captain Nelson, both in excellent condition, but of rather pasty +complexion. Their men then came trooping up, exuberant joy sparkling in +their eyes and glowing in their faces, for these children of Nature know +not the art of concealing their moods or disguising their emotions. + +But, alas! for my estimates. Since I have entered the forest region they +have always been on the erring side. After computing carefully, as I +thought, every mile of the course to be travelled and every obstacle +likely to be met by him and his lightly-laden escort, I was certain +Lieutenant Stairs would be with us after an absence of thirty-nine days. +We stayed forty-seven days, as we were assured it would please him to be +present at the successful termination or crowning triumph of our efforts. +He arrived after seventy-one days' absence, and by that date we had +already communicated with Emin Pasha. + +I had estimated also that out of the fifty-six invalids left in the care +of Ugarrowwa, and boarded at our expense, at least forty convalescents +would be ready, fit for marching, but Mr. Stairs found most of them in +worse condition than when they parted from us. All the Somalis were dead +except one, and the survivor but lived to reach Ipoto. Out of the +fifty-six there were but thirty-four remaining. One of these was Juma, +with foot amputated; three were absent foraging. Out of the thirty sorry +band of living skeletons delivered to him fourteen died on the road, one +was left at Ipoto, the remaining fifteen survived to exhibit their nude +bodies disfigured by the loathliest colours and effects of chronic +disease. The following is the letter describing Mr. Stairs' remarkable +journey, which amply accounts for his detention:-- + + "Fort Bodo, Ibwiri, Central Africa, + "_June 6th, 1888_. + + "Sir,-- + + "I have the honour to report that in accordance with your orders of + the 15th February, 1888, I left this place on the 16th of that + month with an escort of twenty couriers and other details, to + proceed to Ugarrowwa's station on the Ituri, forward the couriers + on their journey to Major Barttelot's column, relieve the invalids + left in charge of Ugarrowwa, and bring them on to this station. + + "Leaving this place, then, on the 16th, we reached Kilimani Hill + village on the 17th. Next day I decided to follow a large native + track, well worn, about two miles west of Kilimani on our through + track to Ipoto; accordingly we started off this up till 11 a.m. + After we had gone this length, the track struck too much to the + north and east; I therefore looked for other tracks, hoping by + following one to at last get on to a large road, and thus work + through to the Ihuru. Finding one, we followed it up some two miles + or so, and then found that it ended abruptly, and no further trace + could be found of it. Returning to our former road we moved on, and + that day made four more endeavours to get north-west or somewhere + in that direction; late at night we camped, just before dark, + having found a blazed track. On the next day, 19th, we followed + this track north-west at a fast rate, and about 10 a.m. came on to + an old village. The blazes here ended; no further signs of a track + could we find leading out of the village, though we hunted + thoroughly in every direction. Returning again, and following a + large track north-east, we made still another try, but here again + the track ended. + + "After some consideration I returned to our camp of yesterday, and + decided on following a road leading towards Mabungu, and then take + a side road, said by the natives to lead to the Ihuru, but on + following this we found it lead merely up to some Wambutti huts, + and here ran out. + + "After taking my head men's opinion, I then decided on returning + and following our old road to Ipoto, there to procure two guides + and follow on the track to Uledi's village, and there cross the + Ihuru and follow down on north side, &c. My reasons for doing these + were: If I should go on like this, looking for tracks, I should + lose probably four or five days, and this with my limited time + would not be admissible; and, secondly, that to attempt to split + our way on a bearing through the bush to the river would take + perhaps five days, which would quite counterbalance any advantage a + north road might possess. Reaching Kilonga Longa's on the 22nd, we + arranged for a party to take us by a road south of Ituri, and on + the 24th left. On the 1st of March crossed the Lenda, courses now + N.W. and N.N.W. On the 9th reached Farishi, the upper station of + Ugarrowwa. On the 14th we reached Ugarrowwa's, on the Ituri, early + in the morning. For many days we had been having rains, and owing + to these I suffered very much from fevers, and on getting to + Ugarrowwa's had to remain in bed for two days. + + "At U.'s some eight or ten were away foraging, and to get these + required three and a half days. + + "Fifty-six (56) men were left with Ugarrowwa, viz., five Somalis, + five Nubians, and forty-six Zanzibaris, on the 18th of September, + 1887. Of this total twenty-six had died, including all the Somalis + except Dualla. There were still two men out when I left. Baraka W. + Moussa I detailed as a courier in place of another (who had been + left at Ipoto with bad ulcer), and Juma B. Zaid remained with + Ugarrowwa. + + "The majority of the men were in a weak state when I arrived, and + on leaving I refused to take seven of these. Ugarrowwa, however, + point blank refused to keep them, so thus I was obliged to bring on + men with the certainty of their dying on the march. + + "Early on the 16th, Abdullah and his couriers were despatched down + river. On the 17th took our forty-four rifles from Ugarrowwa, and + out of these made him a present of two and forty-two rounds + Remington ammunition. + + "On the 18th closed with U. for $870, being $30 for twenty-nine + men; also handed him his bills of exchange and your letter. + + "On same day left for Ibwiri with following. + + "From the 19th to 23rd, when I reached Farishi, the rain was + constant, making the track heavy and the creeks difficult in + crossing. From here on to Ipoto I had bad fevers day after day, and + having no one to carry me, had to make marches of five to seven + miles per day. The constant wettings and bad roads had made all the + men very low-spirited, some doubting even that there was help + ahead. Reached Ipoto April 11th, left 13th; and after more trouble + from fever reached here on 26th April. All glad to see the Fort. + Dualla, the Somali, I was obliged to leave at Ipoto. Tam, a former + donkey-boy, deserted on the road. Of the draft of invalids + (twenty-six) ten had died. Kibwana also died from chest disease in + camp near Mambungu. Out of fifty-six invalids brought fourteen + alive to the Fort. + + "On reaching Fort Bodo I found you had been so long gone that I + could not follow up with safety with the few rifles I could + command, and so remained at this station and reported myself to + Captain Nelson, who was left in charge of the Fort by you. + + "Floods, rains, fevers, and other illnesses had been the cause of + our long delay, and those of us who were in fit condition at all, + felt bitterly the disappointment at not being able to reach you. + + "I have the honour to be, &c., + "W. G. Stairs, Lieut. R.E. + + "To M. H. Stanley, Esq." + +Of the condition of the garrison at Fort Bodo there was but little to +complain; the ulcerous persons, though nothing improved, were not worse; +the anæmic victims of the tortures of Manyuema at Ipoto had gained +possibly a few ounces in weight; the chronically indolent and malingerers +still existed to remind us by their aspects of misery that they were not +suitable for the long and desperate journey yet before us. We expected +all this. The long journey to Yambuya and back, 1,070 miles, could never +be performed by unwilling men. It would be volunteers, fired by interest, +stimulated by the knowledge that, this one task ended, forest miseries, +famine, damp, rain, mud, gloom, vegetable diet, poisoned arrows, would be +things and griefs of the past; and then the joys of the grass land, +divine light, brightness and warmth of full day, careering of grass +before the refreshing gales, the consolation of knowing that heaven is +above, and the earth, yet full of glad life, glowing with beneficence and +blandness, ever before them. Oh, gracious God! hasten the day. But can +black men, the "brutes," "niggers," "black devils," feel so? We shall +see. + +One crop of Indian corn had been harvested, and was stored snugly in +granaries, the fields were being prepared anew for replanting, the banana +plantations still furnished unlimited supplies of food, the sweet +potatoes grew wild in various places, and there was a fair stock of +beans. + +The malicious dwarfs (the Wambutti) had paid nocturnal visits, and +ravaged somewhat the corn fields, and Lieut. Stairs, with a few choice +spirits of the garrison, had given chase to the marauders and had routed +them, losing one man in the action, but scaring the undersized thieves +effectually. + +The Fort now contained 119 Zanzibaris of the Advance, four of Emin +Pasha's soldiers, ninety-eight Madi carriers, and three whites from the +Albert Nyanza, besides fifty-seven Zanzibaris and Soudanese, and two +officers who formed the garrison--total, 283 souls. It was out of this +number we were to form a column of Zanzibari volunteers and Madi carriers +to hasten to the relief of Major Barttelot and the Rear Column. + +After a two days' rest a general muster was made. The necessities of our +condition were explained aloud to them; our white brothers were labouring +under God alone knew what difficulties--difficulties that appeared +greater to them than they did to us, inasmuch as we had gone through them +and survived, and could afford to make light of them. For knowledge would +teach us to be more prudent of our rations, where to refresh our jaded +bodies, and when to hasten through the intervening wildernesses, +husbanding our resources. Our meeting would rejoice our poor friends, +distressed by our long absence, and our good news would reanimate the +most feeble and encourage the despairing. They all knew what treasures of +cloth and beads were in charge of the Rear Column. We could not carry +all, as indeed there was no need for so much. How could it better be +bestowed than on the tireless faithful fellows who had taken their master +twice to the Nyanza and back to his long-lost friends! "I pray you, then, +come to my side ye that are willing, and ye that prefer to stay in the +Fort remain in the ranks." + +Exulting in their lusty strength, perfect health, and in their +acknowledged worth, 107 men cried aloud, "To the Major!" "To the Major!" +and sprang to my side, leaving only six, who were really indisposed by +illness and growing ulcers, in their places. + +Those who understand men will recognize some human merits exhibited on +this occasion, though others may be as blind in perceiving the finer +traits in human nature, as there are many utterly unable to perceive in a +picture the touches which betray the masterful hand of a great painter, +or in a poem the grace and smoothness, combined with vigour and truth, of +the true poet. + +After selecting out a few of the garrison to replace those unable to +undertake the long march before us, there remained only to distribute +twenty-five days' rations of Indian corn to each member of the Relief +Force, and to advise that in addition each man and boy should prepare as +much plantain flour as he could carry. + +Until the evening of the 15th of June all hands were engaged in reducing +the hard corn with pestle and mortar and sieve into flour, or corn rice, +called "grits," in peeling the plantains, slicing, drying them on wood +grating over a slow fire, and pounding them into fine flour. I, on my +part, besides arranging the most needful necessaries required for general +uses, had many personal details to attend to, such as repairs of +pantaloons, shoes, chair, umbrella, rain-coat, etc. + +My intention was to conduct the Relief Force in person, unattended by any +officers, for many reasons, but mainly because every European implied +increase of baggage, which was now required to be of the very smallest +limit consistent with the general safety. Besides, Lieut. Stairs, in my +opinion, deserved rest after his trip to Ipoto to bring the steel boat to +Fort Bodo, and his journey to Ugarrowwa's was to conduct the +convalescents. Captain Nelson, ever since the latter part of September, +1887, had been subject to ever-varying complaints--first ulcers, then a +general debility which almost threatened his life, then skin eruptions, +lumbago, tender feet, and fits of obstinate ague. To a person in such a +vitiated condition of blood a journey of the kind about to be undertaken +would doubtless prove fatal. Dr. Parke, the only other officer availing, +was needed for the sick at the Fort, as in truth the entire garrison +consisted mainly of people requiring medical attendance and treatment. + +With great difficulty we were able to select fourteen men of the garrison +to accompany Captain Nelson as far as Ipoto, to convey the dozen loads of +baggage still remaining there; but as we were about to start, the Captain +was prostrated with another attack of intermittent fever, and a strange +swelling of the hand, which made it necessary for Dr. Parke to replace +him for this short journey. + +The faithful little fox-terrier "Randy," which had borne the fatigues of +the double march to the Albert Nyanza so well, and had been such a good +friend to us in an hour of great need, and had become the pet of every +one, though "Randy" would not permit a Zanzibari to approach me +unannounced, was committed to the care of Lieutenant Stairs, in the hope +of saving him the thousand-mile journey now before us. But the poor dog +misjudged my purpose, and resolutely refused his food from the moment I +left him, and on the third day after my departure he died of a broken +heart. + +Upon carefully considering the state of the Fort, and the condition of +its garrison, and the capacity of its Commandant, Lieut. Stairs, who +would be assisted by Captain Nelson and Dr. Parke, I felt the utmost +assurance that, with sixty rifles and abundant stores of ammunition, they +were invulnerable from any attack of forest natives, however strong their +forces might be. A wide and deep ditch ran round two-thirds of it. At +each of its angles a commanding platform, closely fenced, had been +erected, with approaches and flanks duly under rifle range, and each +angle was connected by a continuous stockade, well banked with earth +without and supported within by a firm banquette. The main roads leading +to the Fort were also fenced, to serve as obstructions. The village +inhabited by the garrison lay on the side unprotected by the ditch, and +was arranged in V shape, to mask the entrance into the Fort. During +daylight no hostile party could approach within 150 yards of the Fort +unperceived. At night ten sentries would be sufficient precaution against +surprise and fire. + +This protection was not so much designed against natives alone as against +a possible--and by no means unlikely--combination of Manyuema with +natives. As much might be urged for the likelihood of such a combination +as against it; but it is a totally wrong policy to be idle before an +uncertain issue, and of the hundreds of camps or stations established by +me in Africa, not one has been selected without considering every near or +remote contingency. + +I was about to leave Fort Bodo without the least anxiety respecting the +natives and Manyuema, as also without fear of incompatibility between the +officers and Zanzibaris. The officers were now acquainted with the +language of their people, as well as with their various habits, tempers, +and moods, and the men could equally distinguish those of their officers. +Both parties also believed that their stay at Fort Bodo was not likely to +be protracted, as the Pasha had promised to visit them within two months, +and from a visit of one of his considerate and thoughtful character they +might surely infer they would derive pleasure as well as profit. On his +return to the Nyanza they could accompany him, abandoning the Fort to its +fate. + +Of the fidelity of the Zanzibaris there was also no room for doubt. +However tyrannical or unjust the officers might be--an extreme +conjecture--the Zanzibaris could only choose between them on the one +hand, and the cannibalism of the Wambutti and the incarnate cruelty of +the Manyuema on the other. + +Would that I could have felt the same confidence and contentment of mind +regarding the Rear Column. With the lapse of months had been the increase +of my anxiety. As week after week had flown by, my faith in its safety +had become weakened and my mind fatigued--with the continual conflict of +its hopes and doubts, with the creation of ingenious and fine theories, +and their no less subtle demolition, was, perforce, constrained for its +own repose and health to forbear thought and take refuge in the firm +belief that the Major was still at Yambuya, but abandoned. Our duty was, +therefore, to proceed to Yambuya, select the most necessary material +equal to our carrying force, and march back to the Nyanza again with what +speed we might. + +On this supposition I framed an estimate of the time to be occupied by +the journey, and handed it, with a letter of instructions, to the +Commandant of the Fort for his use:-- + + "Whereas the distance between Fort Bodo to the Nyanza is 125 miles, + and has been performed in 288 hours' marching, or 74 days, inclusive of + halts. + + "Whereas we travelled the distance from Yambuya to Ugarrowwa's + in 289 hours = 74 days. + + "Whereas Lieutenant Stairs marched from Ugarrowwa's + to Fort Bodo in 26 " + --- + 100 " + + +"Therefore our journey to Yambuya will probably occupy 100 days, and the +same period back. From June 16th, 1888, to January 2nd, 1889, is 200 +days. We may reasonably be expected on January 2nd at Fort Bodo, and on +the 22nd of the same month at Lake Albert. + +"Or thus: Starting June 16th, 1888:-- + + "Fort Bodo to Ugarrowwa's July 5th + Thence to Avisibba " 25th + " " Mupé Aug. 14th + " " Yambuya Sept. 3rd + Halt 10 days -- " 13th + Return to Mupé Oct. 3rd + " " Panga Falls " 23rd + " " Fort Bodo Dec. 22nd + Halt 5 days -- " 27th + Thence to Albert Nyanza Jan. 16th, 1889." + + * * * * * + +The last evening of my stay at Fort Bodo, while reciting over the several +charges, general and personal, entrusted to him, Lieut. Stairs suggested +that perhaps the non-arrival of the steamer _Stanley_ at Yambuya +accounted for the utter silence respecting the Rear Column. I then +replied in the following terms:-- + +"That is rather a cruel suggestion, my dear sir; that is the least I +fear, for as well as I was able I provided against that accident. You +must know that when the _Stanley_ departed from the Yambuya on the 28th +of June, I delivered several letters to the captain of the steamer. One +was to my good friend Lieut. Liebrichts, Governor of Stanley Pool +district, charging him, for old friendship's sake, to despatch the +steamer back as soon as possible with our goods and reserve ammunition. + +"Another was to Mr. Swinburne, my former secretary, who was the soul of +fidelity, to the effect that in case the _Stanley_ met with such an +accident as to prevent her return to Yambuya, he would be pleased to +substitute the steamer _Florida_ for her, as the owners were business +men, and full compensation in cash, which I guaranteed, would find as +ready an acceptance with them as profits from the ivory trade. + +"A third letter was to Mr. Antoine Greshoff, the agent at Stanley Pool +for the Dutch house at Banana, to the effect that, failing both steamers +_Stanley_ and _Florida_, he would find a large ready money profit if he +would undertake the transport of the stores of the Expedition from +Stanley Pool, and 128 men from Bolobo, to Yambuya. Whatever reasonable +freight and fare he would charge, immediate payment was guaranteed by +me. + +"A fourth letter was to our officer in charge at Stanley Pool, Mr. John +Rose Troup, to the effect that, failing the steamers _Stanley_, +_Florida_, and Mr. Greshoff's, he was to use his utmost powers and means +to collect boats and canoes, at whatever cost, ready at hand, and +communicate with Messrs. Ward and Bonny at Bolobo. Mr. Ward at Bolobo was +also enjoined to do the like in Uyanzi, and man these vessels with the +Zanzibaris and natives, and transport by stages the various stores to the +intrenched camp at Yambuya. This last would scarcely be needed, as it is +extremely improbable that from June 28th, 1887, to June 16th, +1888--nearly twelve months--neither the _Stanley_, the _Florida_, nor +Mr. Greshoff's steamer would be available for our service. + +"Besides, you must remember that both captain and engineer of the +_Stanley_ were each promised a reward of £50 sterling if they would +arrive within reasonable time. Such amounts to poor men are not trifles, +and I feel assured that if they have not been prevented by their +superiors from fulfilling their promise, all goods and men arrived safely +at Yambuya." + +"You still think, then, that in some way Major Barttelot is the cause of +this delay?" + +"Yes, he and Tippu-Tib. The latter of course has broken his contract. +There is no doubt of that. For if he had joined his 600 carriers, or half +that number, with our Zanzibaris, we should have heard of them long ago, +either at Ipoto, when you returned there for the boat, or later, when you +reached Ugarrowwa's, March 16th this year. The letter of September 18th, +1887, when only eighty-one days absent from Yambuya, and which the Arab +promised without delay, would certainly have produced an answer by this +if the Major had departed from Yambuya. Those carriers, all choice men, +well armed, acquainted with the road, despatched with you to Ugarrowwa's +on February 16th, and seen by you safely across the river opposite his +station on the 16th of the following month, would surely by this have +returned if the Rear Column was only a few weeks' march from Yambuya; +therefore I am positive in my mind that Major Barttelot is in some way or +other the cause of the delay." + +"Well, I am sure, however you may think the Major is disloyal, I----." + +"Disloyal! Why, whoever put you in mind of that word? Such a word has no +connection with any man on this Expedition, I hope. Disloyal! Why should +any one be disloyal? And disloyal to whom?" + +"Well, not disloyal, but negligent, or backward in pressing on; I feel +sure he has done his best." + +"No doubt he has done his level best, but as I wrote to him on September +18th, in my letter to be given to him by Ugarrowwa's carriers, it is his +'rashness and inexperience I dread,' not his disloyalty or negligence. I +fear the effect of indiscriminate punishments on his people has been such +that the vicinity of Stanley Falls and the Arabs has proved an +irresistible temptation to desert. If our letters miscarry in any way, +our long absence--twelve months nearly to this day, and by the time we +reach Yambuya fourteen months at least!--will be a theme for all kinds of +reports. When the Zanzibaris from Bolobo reached him he ought to have had +over 200 carriers. In twelve months--assuming that the goods and men +arrived in due date, and that, finding Tippu-Tib had broken faith, he +began the move as he promised--he would be at Panga Falls; but if the +severe work has demoralized him, and he has demoralized his carriers, +well, then, he is stranded far below Panga Falls--probably at Wasp +Rapids, probably at Mupé or at Banalya, or at Gwengweré Rapids--with but +100 despairing carriers and his Soudanese, and he is perforce compelled +by the magnitude of his task to halt and wait. I have tried every +possible solution, and this is the one on which my opinion becomes +fixed." + +"Do you allow only 100 left? Surely that is very low." + +"Why? I estimate his loss at what we have lost--about 50 per cent. We +have lost slightly less; for from our original force of 389 souls there +are 203 still alive:--4 at Nyanza, 60 in the Fort, 119 going with me, and +20 couriers." + +"Yes; but the Rear Column has not endured a famine such as we have had." + +"Nor have they enjoyed the abundance that we have fed upon for the last +seven months, therefore we are perhaps equal. But it is useless to +speculate further upon these points." + +"The success which was expected from my plans has eluded me. The Pasha +never visited the south end of the Lake, as I suggested to him in my +letter from Zanzibar. This has cost us four months, and of Barttelot +there is not a word. Our men have fallen by scores, and wherever I turn +there is no comfort to be derived from the prospect. Evil hangs over this +forest as a pall over the dead; it is like a region accursed for crimes; +whoever enters within its circle becomes subject to Divine wrath. All we +can say to extenuate any error that we have fallen into is, that our +motives are pure, and that our purposes are neither mercenary nor +selfish. Our atonement shall be a sweet offering, the performance of our +duties. Let us bear all that may be put upon us like men bound to the +sacrifice, without one thought of the results. Each day has its weight of +troubles. Why should we think of the distresses of to-morrow? Let me +depart from you with the conviction that in my absence you will not +swerve from your duty here, and I need not be anxious for you. If the +Pasha and Jephson arrive with carriers, it is better for you, for them, +and for me that you go; if they do not come, stay here until my return. +Give me a reasonable time, over and above the date--the 22nd of December; +then if I return not, consult with your friends, and afterwards with your +men, and do what is best and wisest. As for us, we shall march back to +the place where Barttelot may be found, even as far as Yambuya, but to no +place beyond, though he may have taken everything away with him down the +Congo. If he has left Yambuya and wandered far away south-east instead of +east, I will follow him up and overtake him, and will cut through the +forest in the _most_ direct way to Fort Bodo. You must imagine all this +to have taken place if I do not arrive in December, and consider that +many other things may have occurred to detain us before you yield to the +belief that we have parted for ever." + +The following is the letter of instructions to Lieut. Stairs:-- + + "Fort Bodo, Central Africa, + "_June 13th, 1888_. + + "Sir,-- + + "During my absence with the advance party of the Expedition, now + about to return to the assistance of Major Barttelot and Rear + Column, I appoint you Commandant of Fort Bodo. I leave with you a + garrison, inclusive of sick, numbering nearly sixty rifles. The men + mainly are not of the calibre requisite for a garrison in a + dangerous country. Still they can all shoot off their rifles, are + in good condition, and you have abundance of ammunition. My + principal reliance is on the Commandant himself. If the chief is + active and wary, our fort is safe, and no combination of natives + can oust the garrison from its shelter. I need not tell you that I + leave you with confidence. + + "Respecting the improvements to be made in the Fort, which I have + verbally explained to you, I would suggest that as the Fort when + completed will be more extensive than at present, you elect about + twenty or thirty of the more decent and cleanly of the men to + occupy the buildings in the Fort, until such time as they are + wanted for other persons, because-- + + "1st. You are in no danger, then, of being cut off by a daring foe + from your garrison. + + "2nd. One-third of your men will be then within the gates ready at + your most sudden call. + + "3rd. The buildings within the Fort will be kept dry and in a + habitable condition by being occupied. + + "_Corn._ Begin planting corn about July 15th. 1st July you should + begin hoeing up, clearing the ground. + + "_Bananas._ I am exceedingly anxious about the bananas. Twice a + week there should be sent a strong patrol round the plantations to + scare the natives, and also elephants. For the latter half-a-dozen + fires at as many points might suffice. + + "An officer should be sent out with the patrol, to have a reliable + report of what transpires; should he report the bananas as getting + scanty, then you should begin rationing your people, always + obtaining your supplies by detachments from the most distant points + of the plantations. Let the bananas nearest the Fort reach + maturity, just as you would your corn. Along the main roads it + would also be well to leave plantations alone until they mature. + + "I leave Captain Nelson as second in command, to take charge when + you are incapacitated by illness or accident. + + "Dr. T. H. Parke, A.M.D., remains here as surgeon to take charge of + the sick. + + "It is, of course, impossible to say when we shall return, as we + have not the least idea whereabouts the Rear Column is, but we + shall do our best. If the Major is still at Yambuya, you may expect + us in December sometime. + + "I expect Emin Pasha and Mr. Jephson in here about two months + hence--say about the middle of August. + + "Should Mr. Jephson appear with a sufficient force of carriers, + then I should recommend the evacuation of the Fort and take the + garrison, and accompany Mr. Jephson to the Nyanza, and put yourself + and force at the disposition of Emin Pasha until my return. As I + come eastward I propose following a northerly and easterly track + from the Nepoko and make for the Ituri ferry. + + "In order that on reaching the Ituri ferry I may know whether you + have evacuated the Fort or not, please remember that on the right + bank of the river, near the ferry, there are a number of very tall + trees, on which you could carve a number of broad arrows, which + would indicate that you had passed. You could also carve date of + crossing the Ituri on a conspicuous place near the ferry. This + would save me a great deal of time and anxiety respecting you. + + "As our twenty couriers left here 16th February, it will be four + months, June 16th, since they left. If Jephson appears in about + two months, say, the time will then be about six months since the + couriers left Fort Bodo--quite sufficient time to dispel all doubt + about them. + + "I wish you and your associates good health and safe arrival at the + Nyanza. On our part we will do our work with what celerity + circumstances will permit. + + "Yours faithfully, + "(Signed) Henry M. Stanley, + "Commanding E. P. R. Expedition. + + "To Lieut. W. G Stairs, + "Commandant Fort Bodo." + + + + +CHAPTER XIX. + +ARRIVAL AT BANALYA: BARTTELOT DEAD. + + + The Relief Force--The difficulties of marching--We reach + Ipoto--Kilongo Longa apologises for the behaviour of his + Manyuema--The chief returns us some of our rifles--Dr. Parke and + fourteen men return to Fort Bodo--Ferrying across the Ituri + river--Indications of some of our old camps--We unearth our buried + stores--The Manyuema escort--Bridging the Lenda river--The famished + Madi--Accidents and deaths among the Zanzibaris and Madi--My little + fox-terrier "Randy"--The vast clearing of Ujangwa--Native women + guides--We reach Ugarrowwa's abandoned station--Welcome food at + Amiri Falls--Navabi Falls--Halt at Avamburi landing-place--Death of + a Madi chief--Our buried stores near Basopo unearthed and + stolen--Juma and Nassib wander away from the column--The evils of + forest marching--Conversation between my tent-boy, Sali, and a + Zanzibari--Numerous bats at Mabengu village--We reach Avisibba, and + find a young Zanzibari girl--Nejambi Rapids and Panga Falls--The + natives of Panga--At Mugwye's we disturb an intended feast--We + overtake Ugarrowwa at Wasp Rapids and find our couriers and some + deserters in his camp--The head courier relates his tragic + story--Amusing letter from Dr. Parke to Major Barttelot--Progress + of our canoe flotilla down the river--The Batundu natives--Our + progress since leaving the Nyanza--Thoughts about the Rear + Column--Desolation along the banks of the river--We reach + Banalya--Meeting with Bonny--The Major is dead--Banalya Camp. + +On the 16th of June, in the early morning we set out from Fort Bodo +towards Yambuya in excellent spirits, loudly cheered by the garrison and +with the best wishes of the officers. We numbered 113 Zanzibaris, +ninety-five Madi carriers, four of Emin Pasha's soldiers, two whites +besides Dr. Parke and his little band of fourteen men, whose company we +were to have as far as Ipoto. Indékaru was reached on the evening of the +17th, amid a heavy storm of rain. The next day was a halt to collect more +plantains. On the 19th we camped at Ndugu-bisha, the day following at +Nzalli's. We had by this time been introduced to the difficulties of +forest marching. The cries of the column leaders recalled most painfully +what an absence of seven months had caused us almost to forget. + +"Red ants afoot! Look out for a stump, ho! Skewers! A pitfall to right! a +burrow to left! Thorns, thorns, 'ware thorns! Those ants; lo! a tripping +creeper, Nettles, 'ware nettles! A hole! Slippery beneath, beneath! look +out for mud! A root! Red ants! red ants amarch! Look sharp for ants! A +log! Skewers below!" And so on from camp to camp. + +Most of the villages along this route still stood, but all awry and +decaying; reeling from rotten uprights, the eave corners on the ground, +green mould covering the floors within, hollows filled with slime, and +fungi flourishing along the sides, and nitrous excrescences abounding; +roofs covered with creepers, nettles, and prolific gourd vines--veritable +nests of ague, into which, however, necessity compelled us and our men to +seek shelter by reason of excessive fatigue, or imminence of a +rainstorm. + +Mambungu's was reached on the 21st, and on the edge of the Busindi +clearing we camped on the following day. After forty-seven hours marching +from Fort Bodo we entered the Arab settlement of Ipoto, where it will be +remembered our people, maddened by distress of hunger, caused me such +serious losses of arms and ammunition. But the change in their condition +was so great, and their eyes flashed such lively glances of scorn at +their tormentors, that in the afternoon Kilonga-Longa, with his headmen, +dreading reprisal, began with many apologies for the behaviour of his +Manyuema during his absence to extenuate the heinousness of their crimes, +and to offer to atone for them as well as he was able. Nineteen +Remingtons were laid before me, out of thirty I knew to be in their +possession. Six of these had been left as pledges of payment by myself, +two were given by Mr. Stairs acting in my name, one was sold by Captain +Nelson, and ten were sold by Zanzibaris, besides eleven not yet +recovered; but out of 3000 cartridges and two entire cases these +receivers of stolen goods purchased from the starving Zanzibaris, only +fifty were returned. Whatever fears the Manyuema may have felt, the fit +time for reprisal and retaliation had not arrived, though fifty rifles +could have captured the settlement easily, the majority of +Kilonga-Longa's people being absent raiding eastward. We had far more +important business afoot than the destruction of Ipoto, nor must it be +forgotten that our little garrison at Fort Bodo was not so secure but +that a few hundreds of men made desperate by their losses might not +avenge themselves fully by a siege or midnight assault. + +We therefore, bending under the necessities of the occasion, accepted the +rifles and gifts of goat and rice, and the Zanzibaris were permitted to +sell such ivory as they had packed up for 100 pecks of rice, which to +them was most welcome provender. + +The next day the chief returned two more rifles, but all my men being +sufficiently armed, he was requested to retain them as pledges, in +addition to the six remaining in his hands, for payment of ninety doti of +cloth promised to him and his people for the grudging and scant +sustenance given to Captain Nelson and Dr. Parke while they were +compulsory guests of this ill-natured community. + +In the afternoon Dr. Parke and his little band of fourteen men commenced +their return journey to Fort Bodo, conveying thirteen loads, and bearing +the very last instructions I could give. + +On the 25th June we set out from Ipoto accompanied by a guide and our +escort of fifteen Manyuema, who were ostentatiously detailed for this +duty as far as the next Arab settlement, one of Ugarrowwa's outlying +stations. We arrived at the Ituri River, and a canoe capable of carrying +nine men was delivered over to us at 3 P.M. to serve as the means of +ferriage. As one trip to the left bank and back occupied on an average +twenty-three minutes, night fell before a half of our force was across. + +The work of ferrying was resumed early next morning, and continued until +two o'clock, when every soul had crossed excepting the Manyuema escort +whose fears that sudden vengeance would be inflicted on them, caused them +to decline the venture they had been ordered to undertake. + +We were now fairly in the wide uninhabited wilderness through which last +October the Expedition struggled, gaunt victims of a merciless famine. No +consideration would have tempted us to a revisit of these dreadful +shades, but that we fostered a lively hope that we should soon meet our +returning couriers, who we expected would gratify us with news from the +Major's column. Imbued with the fond belief that as they had not arrived +at Ipoto we should meet them on this road--none other being known to +them--we marched briskly from the landing-place, and in two and +three-quarter hours reached the camp whence we had crossed over to the +north bank on the 14th of October last. Indications of our stay here were +yet fresh--the charcoal broad arrows drawn on the barked tree stems, the +lead pencil writing to Khamis Parry still plainly legible. + +At 1.15 P.M. of the 28th we arrived at Nelson's camp, opposite the +confluence of the Ihuru with the Ituri, a place which last October +witnessed such death and agony, where poor Nelson sat so many hours, so +many wretched days with ulcered feet, waiting anxiously the arrival of +news from us, and where he was found by his friend Mounteney Jephson, +haggard, and reduced by his feelings of forlornness and despair into a +state of abject helplessness, in the midst of his dying and dead +companions. We had performed the march in twenty hours, or in four days +inclusive of our detention while ferrying with one small craft. Last +October, despite our strenuous endeavours, the same distance had occupied +us thirty-nine hours' marching, or thirteen days inclusive of the halt! +The condition of the stomach made all this great difference. + +We found our _cache_ untouched, though we had strong doubts, and +unearthed our buried stores which Jephson's relief party was unable to +carry away. The ammunition, made by Kynoch of Birmingham, after eight +months' burial in the sand, subject to tropic damp and an eternal rain, +was not so much injured as we expected, a full eighty per cent of it +being still sound, and the well-waxed brass cases and copper caps yet +exhibited their native brightness and gloss. Distributing 1,000 rounds to +the men for the refilling of their pouches, selecting such other articles +as were useful, we made up eight loads, and after burying the rest as +superfluous, we hurried away from the hateful spot, camping far inland. + +Arriving at camp, we discovered four Madi carriers to have deserted with +the kits of their Zanzibari mates. Had they known, what we could never +forget, of the evil repute of this wilderness, they probably would have +chosen the brawling river for their graves than the slow torture of +famine in the ruthless forest. + +At sunset we were surprised to see the Manyuema escort reach our camp. +They had fled to Kilonga Longa's, and that gentleman had sternly ordered +them to follow us again, and not to return without a note reporting they +had performed the duty on which they had been sent. + +On the 29th we left the river route and steered a south-westerly course +through the pathless forest, in order to strike the road taken by Mr. +Stairs' party on their return from Ugarrowwa's. As the headman Rashid bin +Omar was of our party, we presumed--as he asserted his faith in +himself--that he would recognize the path if it were shown to him, after +which of course there would be no difficulty. The whole of the 29th and +30th were occupied in this south-westerly course undeviating. We +meanwhile crossed several native paths, but as Rashid failed to recognize +any of them, we continued on our way. On the 1st July, early in the +morning's march, we entered the basin of the Lenda River, and then, as +Rashid expressed himself of the opinion that we must have passed the +path, we took a direct westerly course, steering straight on through the +forest by compass. At noon of the 2nd we struck the Lenda River which +generally flowed, as we observed during the afternoon march of the 2nd +and until noon of the 3rd, N.N.W. Discovering a narrow chasm thirty yards +wide through which the Lenda rushed furiously, we conceived it would be +to our advantage to throw a bridge across this river, and trust to +fortune showing us the path to Ugarrowwa's station on the other bank, +rather than continue along the Lenda River on the right bank, lest we +might be forced to wander for days without finding the means of crossing. +Accordingly we selected three of the tallest trees, 115, 110, and 108 +feet respectively, which we managed to launch across the chasm, and these +resting on stout forked uprights, with railings to steady the laden men, +made a commodious and safe bridge. Early on the morning of the 5th the +bridge was completed, and by ten o'clock every man was safe across. + +The Madi carriers having purposely scattered their corn provision along +the road to lighten their loads, began now to pay the penalty of their +wastefulness. Though the camp-crier cried out daily the number of days +yet remaining for which the provisions must last, the ignorant savages +were, however, too dense-headed to profit by the warning; consequently we +had a dozen feeble wretches already faltering in their gait. We were +already short of seven--four of whom had deserted. + +We continued on the left bank our westerly course, and meantime crossed +several native paths inclining S.E. and N.W., but we found none that can +be made available for our necessity. + +On the 6th we stumbled across a clearing garnished with a small but +thriving plantation of plantains. The famished Madis rushed on this +supply like hungry wolves on their prey, and soon devoured the whole, but +three of them trod on cunningly-hidden sharp-pointed skewers set in the +ground. + +Through a pelting rain we travelled on the 7th, and, wet and miserable, +camped in the bosom of untraversed woods. One hour's march next day +brought us to the small village of Balia, and five hours later halted +for the night at Bandeya. + +This day had been replete with miseries and singular accidents. A shower +of cold rain fell on us after leaving Balia, and three of the naked Madis +fell dead within a few paces of each other. At the first indications of +this shower I had ordered a halt, and spread out about 150 square feet of +tenting, inviting everyone to huddle under it. The shower over, we rolled +up the canvas and resumed the march, but we were still subject to the +heavy cold dripping of the foliage. The Zanzibaris, more accustomed to it +and in better condition of body, were not much inconvenienced; but three +Madis, depressed in mind, depleted in body, fell dead as suddenly as +though shot. A Lado soldier of Emin Pasha's and a Zanzibari were skewered +in the feet, and so crippled by these painful wounds that we were obliged +to carry them. Near Bandeya another Madi native succumbed to illness +caused by insufficient food, and a Zanzibari was shot by a bold and +crafty dwarf with an arrow which penetrated between the ribs, but not to +a fatal depth. Arriving at the village, my cook Hassan, in an unfortunate +moment, while drawing his Winchester rifle towards him, caused it to +explode, tearing a large portion of the muscles of the left arm; and near +midnight a youth named Amari, while blowing up to a brighter flame a +watch-fire, was suddenly wounded in the head by a bullet from a Remington +cartridge that some one had carelessly dropped near the embers. + +The next day, guided by some women who said they knew the way to +Ugarrowwa's, there was a most tedious march through an immense clearing +lately abandoned by the natives. None that I can remember was so full of +vexations. It was a strained position at every stride we took--now +treading on a slippery trunk which bridged a chasm bristling with dangers +from a number of dead branches, their sharp points erected upwards +threatening impalement to the unfortunate man who fell from such a height +on them; then balancing oneself on a log thrown across a rushing stream; +anon plunged into a brake suffocatingly close from the dense masses of +myriads of creepers growing above and around; soon stumbling through a +deep green slough, its depth hidden by floating vegetable parasites, then +over a fearful array of logs, the relics of the old forest, and every +step the difficulties repeated until near noon we had traversed with +streaming bodies the vast clearing of Ujangwa. On the confines of the +virgin forest we formed camp, despatched the people to gather plantains +and to prepare them as provisions for the few days yet remaining of the +wilderness. + +By solar observations I discovered we were in N. lat. 1° 0' 16". + +On the 10th I suspected we were taking a course which, if continued, +would lead us not far from our camp of the 8th, but the Zanzibaris were +so wedded to the belief that the natives knew their own country best, +that in a fit of spleen I permitted them to rest in that opinion. About +ten o'clock of the 11th we came upon the clearing and a little village we +had left on the morning of the 8th. Thus we had made a complete circle, +and in revenge for this the people demanded that the women should be +slaughtered. Poor things, they had only acted according to their nature! +It is we who were in error in supposing that the natives would show us a +way leading them further and further from their own country. Were the +faith continued in them they would have persisted in guiding us round +about their clearings until they had dropped dead on their native earth. +The women were therefore sent away home, and with compass in hand we +steered a west by north course to strike the main road. We continued this +course the whole of the 11th, and early next day succeeded in finding the +path, which ran north by east. + +At nine o'clock of the 13th July we reached our old camp on the Ituri +River, opposite Ugarrowwa's station, but the place, as we looked across +the river, we found to be abandoned. Therefore no news could be obtained +of our long absent carriers, or of the Major and his people. We resumed +our march, our course being along the Ituri River, every mile, every +creek, every crossing-place and every camp, well known to us. + +The next day, rations all exhausted, Madis perishing by twos and threes +daily, we reached Amiri Falls. No sooner was camp pitched than there was +a rush for food. It was not to be obtained in the immediate vicinity, for +Ugarrowwa's multitude of 600 people had preceded us and devoured every +edible, and that the supply had been insufficient for them was evident by +the number of skeletons in his old camp. Distance would not deter our +fellows from the Nyanza; they hastened onward, pursuing a track leading +southward, until finally after some hours they reached a hill the base of +which was one continuous thriving plantation of plantains. At a late hour +in the night they brought the good news to camp, gratified our famished +eyes with a view of the prodigious fruit, which caused us all to dream +ecstatically on fruity banquets of which the mellow and flavoury plantain +was the most conspicuous. + +Of course a halt at such a critical period within reach of such abundance +was imperative, and at an early hour the camp was emptied of nearly every +able hand, excepting sentries, to procure food. In the afternoon the +well-furnished foragers returned, often in couples, with an immense bunch +between them, like to the old engraving of Caleb and Joshua bearing the +grapes of Eshcol. The more provident, however, bore larger quantities of +the fruit, peeled and sliced, ready for drying, thus avoiding the +superfluous stalk and plantain skin. During the absence of the foragers +the weaker of the messes had erected the wooden grates and collected the +fuel for the drying overnight. The fruit when thus dry could be converted +into cakes, or palatable plantain porridge, or a morning's draught of +plantain gruel. Many of the finest specimens were reserved to ripen to +make a sweet pudding, or a sweet brew, or for sauce for the porridge. + +On the 16th July we resumed our march along the river, following our old +road as closely as possible, and in seven hours reached the Little +Rapids above Navabi Falls. On the next day passed Navabi Falls, and took +a look at the place where we submerged our canoes, to discover that they +had been taken away. Within four hours we arrived at our old camp at +Avamburi landing-place. The path was now considerably improved, for +nearly a thousand pairs of feet had trodden it since our two score of +bill-hooks had first carved a passage through the bush. Many a skeleton +lay along the road, and our moribund Madis were destined to add a few +more to the number, for day by day they dropped down never to rise again. +Nothing that we could say would prevail to induce them to provide +provision for the morrow. Ten plantains they thought an inexhaustible +stock, but the evening would find them hungering for more. The only other +means left to save their lives was to halt as often as possible, to +enable them to eat their fill. Accordingly we halted two days at Avamburi +landing-place, to rest and comfort the drooping and dying Madis. + +On the 20th we marched for seven and a half hours, and camped a few miles +above Bafaido Cataract, losing one Zanzibari and four Madis _en route_. +One of the latter was a chief among them, who suffered from a skewer +wound in the foot. As we were starting he stated his intention to die on +the spot, called his countrymen together, distributed his bracelets, +anklets, shiny iron collars and ear-rings among them, and then lay down +with a placid countenance, wherein not the slightest emotion was +discernible. All this was very admirable, but it would have been still +more admirable to have bravely struggled, than to have so doggedly died. +Three hours later we discovered a canoe into which we were enabled to +place a few weaklings. Before reaching camp we had found three canoes, +into which we embarked nearly all the ailing ones. It would have been +cruel to have halted and sent back people for the Madi chief; besides +there were many chances against our finding him alive, for as soon as the +rear-guard left the camp it was generally visited by hosts of natives, +who would feel no remorse for ending the feeble life of the sick man +lagging behind the column. + +The next day was a short march of two hours. Ugarrowwa had also halted at +Bafaido Cataract, and for several days, judging from the elaborate +arrangements of his large camp, which from a distance appeared like a +large town, occupying the extremity of the river-head terminated by the +cataract. Before arriving at Hippo Broads we were in possession of four +canoes. On the next day, lunching at the cataract camp, where we buried +our shovels and some articles which our weakening force could not carry, +we examined the caché, and discovered that the deserters had unearthed +the ten tusks of ivory, and the natives had possessed themselves of all +the remaining articles. Late in the afternoon we camped at Basopo +Cataract. Between the two cataracts the Zanzibaris discovered several +canoes hidden away in the creeks emptying into the Ituri, and joyfully, +but most recklessly, embarked in them, and notwithstanding their +knowledge of the dangerous channels of the Basopo Cataract, continued on +their course down the furious stream, which caused us the loss of a +Zanzibari and a boy belonging to the soldiers of Emin Pasha. In the +capsized canoe were also two of the Pasha's soldiers, both of whom lost +their rifles and their kit, and barely escaped with their lives. + +Two Zanzibaris, called Juma and Nassib, wandered away from the column and +were missing this day, and we were therefore obliged to halt on the 24th +to send out a party to hunt for them. In the afternoon the party returned +unsuccessful, but an hour later we were startled to hear a bullet hissing +over our heads. A search was made, and the culprit was found to be +Nassib, who, accompanied by his friend Juma, was returning to camp, and +who informed us that he had seen one of our people in the bush just +outside the camp, and had fired at him, supposing him to be a prowling +native. He still more astonished us when he related that the cause of his +parting from the column was that he and Juma had seen some fine plantains +in a plantation, and had sat down to peel and dry a supply for the road. +This had consumed some eighteen hours at least, and they say that when +they sought the road they could not find the track of 200 men. It is +difficult to decide which compelled most admiration, the folly of these +two third-rate men sitting calmly down in the midst of a plantation +belonging to ferocious cannibals, who generally closed the rear of the +columns to avenge themselves on the stragglers, or the alarm which in +this solitary instance possessed the natives. + +On the 25th we camped above the Little Rapids of Bavikai, and on the next +day entered the populous district of Avé-jeli, opposite the mouth of the +Nepoko affluent, taking our quarters in the village where Dr. Parke so +successfully amputated the foot of an unfortunate Zanzibari thirteen +months before. + +I was never so sensible of the evils of forest marching as on this day. +My own condition of body was so reduced, owing to the mean and miserable +diet of vegetables on which I was forced to subsist, that I was more than +usually sympathetic. At this time there were about thirty naked Madis in +the last stages of life; their former ebon black was changed to an ashy +grey hue, and all their bones stood out so fearfully prominent as to +create a feeling of wonder how such skeletons were animated with the +power of locomotion. Almost every individual among them was the victim of +some hideous disease, and tumours, scorched backs, foetid ulcers, were +common; while others were afflicted with chronic dysentery and a wretched +debility caused by insufficient food. A mere glance at them, with the +mal-odour generated by ailments, caused me to gasp from a spasm of +stomach sickness. With all this, the ground was rank with vegetable +corruption, the atmosphere heated, stifling, dark and pregnant with the +seeds of decay of myriads of insects, leaves, plants, twigs and branches. +At every pace my head, neck, arms or clothes was caught by a tough +creeper, calamus thorn, coarse briar, or a giant thistle-like plant, +scratching and rending whatever portion they hooked on. Insects also of +numberless species lent their aid to increase my misery, especially the +polished black ant, which affects the trumpet tree. As we marched under +the leaves these ants contrived to drop on the person, and their bite was +more vexatious than a wasp's or red ant's; the part bitten soon swelled +largely, and became white and blistery. I need not name the other +species, black, yellow and red, which crossed the path in armies or clung +to almost every plant and fed on every tree. These offensive sights and +odours we met day after day, and each step taken was fraught with its own +particular evil and annoyance, but with my present fading strength and +drooping spirits, they had become almost unbearable. My mind suffered +under a constant strain of anxiety respecting the fate of my twenty +choice men which were despatched as couriers to the rear column under +Major Barttelot, as well as of the rear column itself. I had had no meat +of any kind, of bird or beast, for nearly a month, subsisting entirely on +bananas or plantains, which, however varied in their treatment by the +cook, failed to satisfy the jaded stomach. My muscles had become thin and +flabby, and were mere cords and sinews, every limb was in a tremor while +travelling, and the vitals seemed to groan in anguish for a small morsel +of meat. + +At camp I overheard a conversation carried on between my tent-boy Sali +and another Zanzibari. The boy was saying that he believed the "Master" +would not last long, how he had observed that his powers were declining +fast. "Please God," said the other, "we shall find goats or fowls in a +few days. It is meat he needs, and he shall get it if Ugarrowwa has not +cleared out the country." + +"Ah," said Sali, "if the Zanzibaris were men instead of being brutes, +they would surely share with the master what meat they get while +foraging. Do they not use his guns and cartridges, and are they not paid +wages for using them. I can't understand why they should not share what +they obtain with the master's own rifles." + +"There are few here so wicked as not to do it--if they get anything worth +sharing," replied the other. + +"But I know better," said Sali. "Some of the Zanzibaris find a fowl or a +goat almost every day, but I do not see any of them bringing anything to +the master." + +At this juncture I called out to Sali, and enjoined him to tell me all he +knew. By dint of questioning, the fact was elicited that there was some +truth in what he had stated. Two of the Zanzibari chiefs, Murabo, of +Bumbiré fame, and Wadi Mabruki, had discovered a goat and three fowls on +the 25th, and had secretly eaten them. This was one of the first +instances of signal ingratitude discovered in these two men. From this +day the effect of the disclosure resulted in obtaining a share in the +spoils. Three fowls were delivered to me before evening, and a few days +later I had regained normal strength. This happy result in my own case +proved what the needs of the poor naked Madis were. + +A heavy stock of provisions of dried plantains was prepared at Avé-jeli, +and our increasing flotilla of canoes enabled us to embark all our Madis, +baggage, and half of the Zanzibari force. + +We formed our next day's camp near Avugadu Rapids, and on the 27th passed +the canoes over the rapids, and halted for the night a few miles below. + +We lunched at our old camp, where I remained so many days while waiting +and searching for the lost Expedition in August, '87, on the 30th July, +and took up our night's quarters at Mabengu village. + +At this village we observed about sunset an immense number of large bats, +called "popo" in Swahili, sailing over our heads to their night roosts +across the river. A thin riband of sky was alone visible above where I +stood, and I counted 680 of the number that flew within view. As the army +of bats must have spread over several miles of the forest, a rough +approximation of the many thousands that were flying may be made. + +On the last day of July we reached Avisibba, famous for its resistance to +our advance column last year, and for the fatal effects of the poisoned +arrows employed in the conflict. In one of the huts we found the top of +one of our tent-poles, wrapped carefully in leaves, with a small piece +of cartridge paper, a bit of green velvet from our surgical instrument +case, and the brass case of a Remington cartridge. The curious package +was hung up to one of the rafters, and probably consecrated to some +fetish. + +In another hut we discovered a collar of iron rings, and ten unfired +cartridge cases. These last must have belonged to one of our unfortunate +deserters, whose flesh must have simmered in a pot over a fire and formed +a family repast. An old jacket was also picked up later, which deepened +the probability. + +Shortly after landing at the village a little naked girl about eight +years old walked composedly into view and surprised us all by addressing +us in the Zanzibari language. + +She cried out, "It is true, then? I heard a gunshot, and I said to myself +while in my hiding-place, these must be my own people, and I will go and +see them, for the Pagans have no guns." + +She gave her name as "Hatuna-mgini" (we have no other), and related that +she and five full-grown women were abandoned by Ugarrowwa at that place +because they were very sick, and that soon after Ugarrowwa had departed +with his large flotilla of canoes the natives rushed in and killed the +five women, but that she had run away and hidden herself, where she had +remained ever since, living on raw wild fruit, but in the night she had +succeeded in gathering bananas, which, when ripe, she could eat uncooked, +since no fire was possible. Ugarrowwa had had a skirmish with the +Avisibbas, in which he had killed a great number. He had stayed here five +days preparing food, and had departed many days--"more than ten days." + +A march of four and a half hours to Engweddé, and another of seven and a +half hours, took us to a camp opposite an island occupied by the Bapaiya +fishermen, a few miles above the Nejambi Rapids. Rifles, accoutrements, +were disembarked, and the canoemen were ordered to pass their canoes down +the left branch. While the land party was engaged in the portage, the +majority of the canoemen preferred to take the right branch, in which +act of disobediance the Zanzibari chief and five Madis lost their lives, +one canoe was lost, and two others capsized, but afterwards recovered. A +Zanzibari named Salim was so bruised and battered by the flood sweeping +him against the rocks that he was unable to walk for nearly a month +afterwards. + +About 3 P.M. we resumed our journey, and arrived about 5 P.M. at Panga +Falls. Leaving a detachment of them to guard the canoes, we formed camp +below the Falls. The land party succeeded in finding a small supply of +Indian corn, which, converted into meal, made me a porridge supper. + +A downpour of rain, commencing at midnight and continuing until 1 P.M. of +the 5th of August, much impeded our work, but by night we had our +flotilla of nineteen canoes safe below the Falls, in front of our camp. + +The natives of Panga had betaken themselves into an island near the right +bank, with all their goats, fowls, and other property, but they had left +several nets and wires within reach in the various branches on our side, +whence we obtained some fine large fish. The natives were practically +safe, inasmuch as no body of men with other business in view would incur +the trouble of molesting them. They, however, manifested most plausibly a +desire to make terms of amity with us by pouring water on their heads and +sprinkling their bodies with it, and some of our men good-naturedly +approached their island and responded reciprocally. The daring natives +pushed across the cataract, and one of them contrived to draw himself +unperceived near one of our men, and stabbed him in the back. + +A halt was ordered the next day, and a band of forty men proceeded inland +to forage, returning towards night, each with a load of eatables; but one +of their number, a Madi, received a severe wound in the back with an +arrow. + +Our old camp opposite the confluence of the Ngula River and the Ituri was +reached on the 7th in two and a half hours by the canoes, but the land +party occupied eight hours in marching the distance, which I estimated at +eleven miles. + +At Mambanga's on the north bank, which we reached the next day, we found +a good supply of food, but a Zanzibari named Jaliffi was seriously +wounded with a wooden arrow in the chest. A portion an inch and a half +long was embedded in the wounded part, which incapacitated him from duty +for over two months. On the point of the arrow being ejected, the wound +soon closed. + +At Mugwye's--or My-yui--the next place, a great change had occurred. All +the villages were obliterated by fire, and the fine plantain plantations +cut down, and at Mugwye's own village there stood an immense camp. +Believing that Ugarrowwa was present, we fired a signal shot, but no +answer being returned, we proceeded to our old camp on the left bank, +where on one of the trees Lieutenant Stairs had carved the date "July +31st" (1887) for the benefit of the Major. + +Arriving at our old camp, we were surprised to see the body of a woman +belonging to Ugarrowwa's, freshly killed and washed, laid out on the bank +close to the river, and near by three bunches of plantains, two +cooking-pots, and a canoe capable of carrying five people. It was +evident to us that a party of natives hearing the signal shot, had +decamped, and had been obliged to abandon their intended feast. + +A party of men was sent across the river to reconnoitre, and in a short +time they came back reporting that Ugarrowwa must have departed that same +morning down the river. This was very regrettable to me, as I burned to +ascertain what he had heard of the news from down river, and I also +wished to beg of him not to ravage the country for the benefit of +succeeding caravans, which would suffer serious loss from the wholesale +havoc and devastation attending his journey. + +On the 10th of August I delivered over to the care of the senior Zanzibar +chief, Rashid, thirty-five of the ablest of our men, with a charge to +pursue our old track along the river as I intended to descend the river +with our canoe flotilla without a halt as far as Wasp Rapids, where no +doubt we should overtake Ugarrowwa, and where we should stay together +until he should reach us. + +At 6.40 A.M. we set out, and, paddling vigorously, were in the +neighbourhood of Wasp Rapids at 11 A.M. Long before we heard the roar of +the rushing river over the rocky reefs which obstruct its course there, +we descried an immense camp on the right bank, and in a short time the +forms of men in white dresses moving about the bush. When we had +approached within rifle range we fired some signal shots and hoisted our +flag, which was no sooner seen than the deep boom of heavily-loaded +muskets announced that we were recognized. Soon several large canoes +pushed from the right bank towards us, as we were descending along the +left bank, and hailed us in the Swahili language. After the usual +exchange of compliments we then asked the news, and to our great joy, not +unmixed with grief, we learned that our couriers, who had now been absent +from us nearly six months, were in Ugarrowwa's camp. The couriers had +left Lieutenant Stairs at Ugarrowwa's station on the 16th of March, and +had reached Wasp Rapids in seventeen days, or on the 1st of April, where +they had been driven back with a loss of four of their number. Perceiving +that they were unable to pierce through the hostile crowds, they had +travelled back to Ugarrowwa's station, which they reached on the 26th of +April, and where they placed themselves in Ugarrowwa's hands. A month +later, Ugarrowwa, having collected his people from the outlying stations, +commenced his descent of the Ituri River, our couriers accompanying him, +reaching Wasp Rapids on the 9th of August, having been seventy-six days +_en route_. That same period we had occupied in travelling from the +Albert Nyanza, the 10th of August being the twenty-ninth day since we had +left Ugarrowwa's old station. + +After forming our camp on the left bank in the deserted village of +Bandeyah, opposite the camp of Ugarrowwa's, in the deserted village of +Bandekiya, the surviving couriers, accompanied by Ugarrowwa and his head +men, visited us. Amid a deep silence the head man related his tragic +story: + +"Master, when you called for volunteers to bear your letter to the Major, +there was not a man of us but intended to do his very best, knowing that +we were all to receive a high reward and great honour if we succeeded. We +have done our best, and we have failed. We have, therefore, lost both +reward and honour. It is the men who have gone with you to the Nyanza and +found the Pasha, and can boast of having seen him face to face, who +deserve best at your hands. But if we have not succeeded in finding the +Major and gladdening his heart with the good news we had to tell, God he +knows it has not been through any fault of our own, but rather because it +is His will that we should not do so. We have lost four of our number, +and I am the only one who cannot show a wound received during the +journey. We have two, who though alive, seem to be incurable from the +poison in their blood. Some of our men have as many as five arrow wounds +to show you. As far as Avisibba we came down the river smoothly enough, +but then the sharp work soon commenced. At Engweddé two were wounded. At +Panga Falls three men were most seriously hurt by arrows. Between Panga +Falls and here was a continued fight day after day, night after night; +the natives seemed to know long before we reached them our full strength, +and set on us either in full daylight or in the darkness, as though +resolved to exterminate us. Why they should show so much courage with us +when they had shown themselves so cowardly when we went up with you, I +cannot say, unless our deserters, coming down river by half-dozens, have +enabled the Pagans to taste the flavour of Zanzibari blood, and they +having succeeded so well with them, imagined they could succeed with us. +However, when we reached this village wherein you are now encamped, there +were only eleven of us fit for anything; all the rest were sore from +their wounds and one was helpless; and soon after our coming the fight +began in real earnest. Those surviving couriers, accompanied by +Ugarrowwa and his from that great village opposite us joined with the +natives of Bandeya; the river seemed to swarm with canoes, and the bush +around this village was alive with natives. After an hour's trial, during +which time many of them must have been killed, for they were so crowded, +especially on the river, we were left in peace. We availed ourselves in +fortifying, as well as we could, the few huts we had selected for our +quarters during the night. + +"When night fell we placed sentries as usual, as you and Lieut. Stairs +and Ugarrowwa, all of you, enjoined on us; but, wearied with work and +harassed by care, our sentries must have slept, for the first thing we +knew was that the natives had pulled down our zeriba and entered into the +camp, and a wild cry from a man who received a fatal thrust with a spear +woke us up to find them amongst us. We each grasped our rifles and fired +at the nearest man, and six of them fell dead at our feet. This for a +moment paralysed them; but we heard a chief's voice say, 'These men have +run away from Bula Matari. Not one of them must live.' Then from the +river and the bush they came on in dense crowds, which the flashes of our +rifles' fire lit up, and their great numbers seemed for a short time to +frighten the best of us. Lakkin, however, who is never so funny as when +in trouble, shouted out, 'These fellows have come for meat--give it them, +but let it be of their own people,' and wounded men and all took their +rifles and took aim as though at a target. How many of them fell I cannot +say; but when our cartridges were beginning to run low they ran away, and +we were left to count the dead around us. Two of our men never answered +to their names, a third called Jumah, the son of Nassib, called out to +me, and when I went to him I found him bleeding to death. He had just +strength enough to charge me to give the journey up. 'Go back,' said he. +'I give you my last words. Go back. You cannot reach the Major; therefore +whatever you do, go back to Ugarrowwa's.' Having said this, he gave up +his last breath, and rolled over, dead. + +"In the morning we buried our own people, and around our zeriba there +were nine natives dead, while within there were six. We beheaded the +bodies, and after collecting their heads in a heap, held council together +as to the best course to follow. There were seventeen of us alive, but +there were now only four of us untouched by a wound. Jumah's last words +rung in our ears like a warning also, and we decided to return to +Ugarrowwa's. It was easier said than done. I will not weary you with +details--we met trouble after trouble. Those who were wounded before were +again wounded with arrows; those who were unwounded did not escape--not +one excepting myself, who am by God's mercy still whole. A canoe was +capsized and we lost five rifles. Ismailia was shot dead at Panga Falls. +But why need we say over again what I have already said? We reached +Ugarrowwa's after an absence of forty-three days. There were only sixteen +of us alive, and fifteen of us were wounded. Let the scars of those +wounds tell the rest of the story. We are all in God's hands and in +yours. Do with us as you see fit. I have ended my words." + +Among those who heard this dreadful story of trials for the first time +there was scarcely a dry eye. Down many faces the tears ran copiously, +and deep sighs and ejaculations of pity gushed from the sympathetic +hearts. When the speaker had finished, before my verdict was given, there +was a rush towards him, and hands stretched out to grasp his own, while +they cried out with weeping eyes, "Thank God! thank God! You have done +bravely; yes, you have shown real worth, and the mettle of men." + +It was thus we welcomed our long-lost couriers, whose fate had been ever +in our minds since our departure from Fort Bodo. They had been singularly +unsuccessful in the object of their mission, but somehow they could not +have been more honoured by us had they returned with letters from the +Major. The story of their efforts and their sufferings was well told, and +was rendered more effective and thrilling by the sight of the many wounds +each member of the gallant band had received. Through the kindness of +Ugarrowwa, whose sympathies had been won by the same sad but brave story, +their wounds had soon healed, with the exception of two, who though now +only greatly scarred were constantly ailing and weak. I may state here +that one finally recovered in the course of two months his usual +strength, the other in the same time faded away and died. + +In Ugarrowwa's camp were also discovered three famous deserters, and two +of our convalescents who were absent foraging during Lieut. Stairs' +visit. One of these deserters had marched away with a box of ammunition, +another had stolen a box containing some of Emin Pasha's boots and a few +pairs of my own. They had ventured into a small canoe which naturally was +capsized, and they had experienced some remarkable hair-breadth escapes +before they arrived at Ugarrowwa's. They had been delivered as prisoners +to Lieut. Stairs, but a few days later, they again escaped to +Ugarrowwa's, who was again induced to deliver them up to me. These two +afterwards behaved exceedingly well, but the third, while a victim to +small-pox, some few weeks later, escaped from the care of his friends and +leaped into the Nejambi Rapids, where he was drowned. + +Ugarrowwa, being out of powder, was more than usually kind. A notable +present of four goats, four sacks of rice, and three large canoes was +made to me. The goats and rice, as may be imagined, were very welcome to +us, nor were the canoes a despicable gift, as I could now treble the rate +of our descent down the river; for in addition to our own canoes the +entire Expedition of 130 fighting men, boys, followers, and Madi, +carriers, besides the baggage could be embarked. + +No news had been obtained of our Rear Column by either the couriers or +Ugarrowwa. The letter to the Major, which I had delivered to Ugarrowwa +for despatch by his couriers last September, was now returned to me with +the letters from my own couriers. He had sent forty-five men down the +river, but at Manginni, about half-way between Wasp Rapids and My-yui, +they had been obliged to return. Thus both efforts to communicate with +Major Barttelot had been unsuccessful, and could not but deepen the +impression that something exceedingly awry had occurred with the Rear +Column. Among the letters delivered to me by Ugarrowwa was one open. It +is descriptive and amusing, and characteristic of our Doctor:-- + + "Fort Bodo, + "_15th February, 1888_. + + "My dear old Barttelot, + + "I hope you are 'going strong' and Jameson 'pulling double.' None + of us here have any idea where you are. Some of us officers and men + say you are on the way up river, others say you are still at + Yambuya, unable to move with a large number of loads, and amongst + the men there is an idea that your Zanzibaris may have gone over to + Tippu-Tib. Stanley reached the Lake 14th December, 1887, but could + not communicate with Emin Pasha. As he had not got his boat, he + then came back from the Lake into the bush, and made this fort to + store his baggage, while he again goes on to the Lake with Jephson + and boat. Stairs goes to Ugarrowwa's to-morrow with twenty men, who + are to go on to you and who bring this letter. Stairs returns here + with about forty or fifty men who were left at Ugarrowwa's, and + then goes on after Stanley, as the place is only 80 or 100 miles + from the Lake. I am to stay at this fort with forty or fifty men. + Nelson, who has been ailing for months, therefore also remains + here. We had an awful time coming here. I often said I was starved + at school, but it was stuffing compared with what we have gone + through. I am glad to say all the white men are very fit, but the + mortality amongst the men was enormous, something like 50 per cent. + Up to Ugarrowwa's there is plenty of food, but little or none along + the river this side of Ugarrowwa's. Stanley, I know, is writing you + all about the starvation and the road. To-day, Stanley fell in all + the men, and asked them all if they wanted to go to the Lake or go + back for you. Most of the men at first wanted to go back, but + afterwards the majority were for the Lake; both Stairs, Jephson, + and myself were for the Lake, so as to decide if Emin Pasha was + alive or not, so as not to bring your column up all this way and + then go back to Muta Nzigé. All the men are as fat as butter, some + of them, however, who stayed with me at an Arab camp for three + months, where I was left to look after Nelson, and sick men, and + boxes, etc., are reduced to skin and bone. Out of thirty-eight, + eleven died of starvation. Stairs was the only officer wounded, but + many of the men died from their wounds. + + "We are all in a bad way for boots; none of us have a good pair. I + have made two pairs, but they did not last long, and all my clothes + have been stolen by 'Rehani,' a Zanzibari. Stanley has had me + working hard all day, and I have only time to write these few lines + as the sun is going down. Our party have lost and sold a great + quantity of ammunition. + + "Give my best wishes to old Jameson, also the other fellows whom I + know; and hoping to see you up here before long, + + "Believe me, yours very sincerely, + "J. H. P. + + "We are all awfully sick of this 'bush'; it continues to within a + few miles of the Lake." + +The next day was a halt. The senior Chief Rashid and his land party did +not arrive before 2 P.M. of the 11th. The current had carried our +flotilla in five hours, a journey which occupied him fifteen hours' +march. But on the 12th of August, having safely passed the canoes below +the rapids, we embarked at noon and proceeded down river. Opposite +Elephant-playground camp we met one of Ugarrowwa's scouting canoes +ascending, the men of which related wonderful stories of the strength, +fierceness, and boldness of the Batundu natives. Two hours later the +Batundu drums announced our advent on the river; but when their canoes +advanced to reckon the number of our vessels, they quietly retired, and +we occupied their chief village in peace, and slept undisturbed during +the night. + +At S. Mupé we arrived on the 13th, and halted one day to prepare food for +our further journey down river, but on the next day, the 15th, we passed +the flotilla safely down the various rapids, and camped below the lowest +Mariri Rapids. + +Resuming the journey on the 16th, we floated and paddled past three of +our land march camps, and on a large island possessing huts sufficient to +accommodate 2,000 people we halted for the night. Both banks of the river +were unpeopled and abandoned, but no one could impart any reason for this +wholesale devastation. Our first thought was that our visit had perhaps +caused their abandonment, but as the natives had occupied their +respective villages in view of the rear guard, we concluded that probably +some internecine war was the cause. + +This day was the eighty-third since we had departed from the shores of +the Albert Nyanza, and the sixtieth since we had left Fort Bodo. Our +progress had been singularly successful. Of the naked Madi carriers we +had lost a great many, nearly half of the number that we had departed +from the Nyanza with; but of the hardened and acclimatised Zanzibaris we +had lost but three, two of whom were by drowning, and one was missing +through a fit of spleen. Five hundred and sixty miles of the journey had +been accomplished, there were only ninety miles remaining between +Bungangeta Island and Yambuya, yet not a rumour of any kind had been +heard respecting the fate of our friends and followers of the rear +column. This constant and unsatisfied longing, pressing on my mind with a +weight as of lead, with the miserable unnourishing diet of dry plantains, +was fast reducing me into an aged and decrepit state of mind and body. +That old buoyant confident feeling which had upheld me so long had nearly +deserted me quite. I sat near sunset by the waterside alone, watching the +sun subside lower and lower before the horizon of black foliage that +bounded Makubana, the limits of my view. I watched the ashen grey clouds +preceding the dark calm of night, and I thought it represented but too +faithfully the melancholy which I could not shake off. This day was +nearly twelve months from the date the rear column should have set out +from Yambuya--365 days. Within this period 100 carriers only might have +been able to have advanced as far as Bungangeta, even if they had to make +seven round trips backwards and forwards? What could possibly have +happened except wholesale desertion caused by some misunderstanding +between the officers and men? In the darkness I turned into my tent, but +in my nervous and highly-strung state could find no comfort there; and at +last I yielded and implored the all-seeing and gracious Providence to +restore to me my followers and companions, and allay the heartache that +was killing me. + +At the usual hour on the 17th, we embarked in our canoes and resumed our +journey down the river, paddling languidly as we floated. It was a sombre +morning; a heavy greyness of sky painted the eternal forest tops of a +sombrous mourning colour. As we glided past Bungangeta district we +observed that the desolation had not been confined to it, but that +Makubana also had shared the same fate; and soon after coming in view of +the mighty curve of Banalya, which south or left bank had been so +populous, we observed that the district of the Banalya had also been +included. But about half-past nine we saw one village, a great way down +through the light mist of the morning, still standing, which we supposed +was the limit of the devastation. But as we drew near we discovered that +it had a stockade. In July 1887, when we passed up, Banalya was deemed +too powerful to need a stockade. Presently white dresses were seen, and +quickly taking up my field glass, I discovered a red flag hoisted. A +suspicion of the truth crept into my mind. A light puff of wind unrolled +the flag for an instant, and the white crescent and star was revealed. I +sprang to my feet and cried out, "The Major, boys! Pull away bravely." A +vociferous shouting and hurrahing followed, and every canoe shot forward +at racing speed. + +[Illustration: VIEW OF BANALYA CURVE.] + +About 200 yards from the village we stopped paddling, and as I saw a +great number of strangers on the shore, I asked, "Whose men are you?" "We +are Stanley's men," was the answer delivered in mainland Swahili. But +assured by this, and still more so as we recognised a European near the +gate, we paddled ashore. The European on a nearer view turned out to be +Mr. William Bonny, who had been engaged as doctor's assistant to the +Expedition. + +Pressing his hand, I said, + +"Well, Bonny, how are you? Where is the Major? Sick, I suppose?" + +"The Major is dead, sir." + +"Dead? Good God! How dead? Fever?" + +"No, sir, he was shot." + +"By whom?" + +"By the Manyuema--Tippu-Tib's people." + +"Good heavens! Well, where is Jameson?" + +"At Stanley Falls." + +"What is he doing there, in the name of goodness?" + +"He went to obtain more carriers." + +"Well then, where is Mr. Ward, or Mr. Troup?" + +"Mr. Ward is at Bangala." + +"Bangala! Bangala! what can he be doing there?" + +"Yes, sir, he is at Bangala, and Mr. Troup has been invalided home some +months ago." + +These queries, rapidly put and answered as we stood by the gate at the +water side, prepared me to hear as deplorable a story as could be +rendered of one of the most remarkable series of derangements that an +organized body of men could possibly be plunged into. + +Despite Mr. Bonny's well written report of the events which had occurred, +it was many days before I could find time to study and understand the +details. The strangers I had observed belonged to Tippu-Tib, and they now +pressed congratulations upon our arrival, and our people hurrying in +through the narrow gate with the baggage from the canoes, bawling out +recognition of their friends, leaping with joy, or howling with grief, +made Banalya Camp indescribably tumultuous. + +Let us imagine the baggage stored orderly, the canoes lashed to stakes +firmly driven in the bank, the congratulations of the strangers over, the +Zanzibaris of the advance column departed from our immediate vicinity to +seek their long-lost friends and to hear the news, the Soudanese and +Zanzibari survivors of the rear column having uttered their fervid thanks +that we had at last--at last, thank God--come, and such letters as had +arrived hastily read, despatches hastily written, sent by couriers to +Stanley Falls, one for Tippu-Tib himself, and one for the Committee of +the Relief Fund, and we shall be at liberty to proceed with the story of +the rear column, as gathered from Mr. Bonny's reports oral and written, +and from the surviving Soudanese soldiers and Zanzibaris, and we shall +then see how the facts differed or agreed with our anticipations. + +[Illustration: MEETING WITH THE REAR COLUMN AT BANALYA.] + + + + +CHAPTER XX. + +THE SAD STORY OF THE REAR COLUMN. + + + Tippu-Tib--Major E. M. Barttelot--Mr. J. S. Jameson--Mr. Herbert + Ward--Messrs. Troup and Bonny--Major Barttelot's Report on the + doings of the rear column--Conversation with Mr. Bonny--Major + Barttelot's letter to Mr. Bonny--Facts gleaned from the written + narrative of Mr. Wm. Bonny--Mr. Ward detained at Bangala--Repeated + visits of the Major to Stanley Falls--Murder of Major + Barttelot--Bonny's account of the murder--The assassin Sanga is + punished--Jameson dies of fever at Bangala Station--Meeting of the + advance and rear columns--Dreadful state of the camp--Tippu-Tib and + Major Barttelot--Mr. Jameson--Mr. Herbert Ward's report. + +The principal characters of the following narrative are:-- + +First. Tippu-Tib, _alias_ Sheikh Hamed bin Mohammed, a man who is a +native of the East Coast of Africa, of Arab descent. He has thousands of +men under his command. He is a renowned slave trader, with a passion for +extending his conquests and traffic in ivory and slaves, who, while +meditating war against an infant State lately created in Africa, is +persuaded to agree to a peace pact, to confine his destructive raids +within certain limits, and, finally, to lend the services of 600 carriers +to our Expedition, which is destined for the rescue of a worthy Governor +beleaguered by many enemies at the north end of the Albert Nyanza. + +While exhibiting the utmost goodwill, ungrudging hospitality, and +exercising numerous small kindnesses to the officers of the Expedition, +he contrives to delay performing the terms of his solemn contract, and +months are wasted before he moves to take the necessary steps for +accomplishing his duties. Finally, as the officers provoke him by +constant and persistent entreaties, he makes a journey of over 700 +miles, collects the carriers, and after eleven months' systematic delay, +surrenders them to his white friends. But a few weeks later a catastrophe +occurs: one of the headmen of these carriers, named Sanga, points his +musket at the principal European officer in charge, and shoots him dead. + +[Illustration: MAJOR BARTTELOT.] + +Second, is Major Edmund Musgrave Barttelot, a generous, frank, and +chivalrous young English officer, distinguished in Afghanistan and on the +Soudanese Nile for pluck and performance of duty. His rank and past +experience in the command of men entitle him to the appointment of +commander of the rear column. He is instructed to remain at Yambuya +until the arrival of a certain contingent of carriers from Bolobo, in the +charge of three subordinate officers, Messrs. Ward, Troup, and Bonny. If +Tippu-Tib has arrived previous to or by that date, he is to lose no time +in following the track of the advance column, which has preceded him by +about seven weeks. If Tippu-Tib has not arrived by the time the Bolobo +contingent has reached Yambuya, he is to make a forward move by slow +stages with his own force of about 210 carriers, making repeated trips +backwards and forwards until all the essentials are removed from camp to +camp; he is allowed discretion what to dispense with in order to be +enabled to march; the articles are mentioned which may be thrown away. He +declares the instructions to be clear and intelligible. He vows that he +will not wait longer at Yambuya than the arrival of the Bolobo people, +and satisfies us all that in him we have a man of energy, resolution, and +action, and that there is no need of anxiety respecting the conduct of +the rear column. In every letter and report he appears animated by the +utmost loyalty and willing spirit. + +Third, is a young civilian named James Sligo Jameson, a gentleman of +wealth, with a passion for natural history studies, who, professing a +fraternal attachment for his friend the Major, is appointed second in +command of the rear column. It is reported of him, that "his alacrity, +capacity, and willingness to work are unbounded"; whatsoever his friend +the Major proposes receives the ready sanction of Mr. Jameson; and he has +a claim to having much experience and judgment for former adventurous +travels in Mashona Land and Matabele. Barely four weeks after the +assassination of his friend he dies, utterly worn out by fever and +trouble. + +Three young Englishmen come last, who are attached to the Major's staff, +two of whom, Mr. Herbert Ward and Mr. Troup, are to be associated with +the commander and his second in the discussion of every vital step, and +no important decision can be taken unless a council of the four has been +convened to consider it as to its bearing upon the enterprise for which +they have assembled on the verge of the unknown region of woods. They are +therefore implicated in the consequences of any resolution and every +sequent act. They are not boys new from school, and fresh from the +parental care. They are mature and travelled men. Mr. Herbert Ward has +seen service in Borneo, New Zealand, and Congo land; is bright, +intelligent and capable. Mr. John Rose Troup has also served under my +command in the Congo State, and has been mentioned in my record of the +founding of that State as an industrious and zealous officer. Mr. William +Bonny has seen service in the Zulu and Nile campaigns, has lived years +in South America, and appears to be a staid and observing man. + +[Illustration: MR. JAMESON.] + +Now here is the inexplicable mystery. We have parted from them while +warmly and even affectionately attached to each other. We have plighted +our words one to the other. "Fear not," say they; "we shall be doing and +striving, cheerfully and loyally." We believe them, and hand in hand we +pledge ourselves. + +We return from our quest of Emin Pasha, and according to Major +Barttelot's own Report (see Appendix) we learn the following striking +facts:-- + +1st. "Rumour is always rife, and is seldom correct, concerning Mr. +Stanley. He is not dead to the best of my belief. I have been obliged to +open Mr. Stanley's boxes, as I cannot carry all his stuff." + +He sends to Bangala all my clothing, maps, and charts, reserved medicines +for the Expedition, photo chemicals and reserve negatives, extra springs +for Winchesters, Remingtons, essentials for tents, and my entire canteen. +He reduces me to absolute nakedness. I am so poor as to be compelled to +beg a pair of pants from Mr. Bonny, cut another pair from an old white +blanket in the possession of a deserter, and another from a curtain in my +tent. But Messrs. Jameson, Troup, and Bonny are present, concurring and +assisting, and the two last-named receive salaries, and both present +their accounts and are paid, not a penny deducted, and a liberal +_largesse_ besides in first-class passages home is granted to them. + +2nd. "There are four other Soudanese and twenty-nine Zanzibaris who are +unable to proceed with us." + +"Two cases of Madeira were also sent him (Mr. Stanley). One case I am +sending back"--that is, down the Congo. He also collects a choice +assortment of jams, sardines, herrings, wheaten flour, sago, tapioca, +arrowroot, &c., and ships them on board the steamer which takes Mr. Troup +homeward. And there are thirty-three dying men in camp. We may presume +that the other gentlemen concurred in this deed also. + +3rd. "I shall go on to Wadelai, and ascertain from Emin Pasha, if he be +there still, if he has any news of Mr. Stanley; also of his own +intentions as regards staying or leaving. I need not tell you that all +our endeavours will be most strenuous to make the quest in which we are +going a success. It may be he only needs ammunition to get away by +himself, in which case I would in all probability be able to supply +him." + +On the 14th of August Mr. John Rose Troup has delivered over to Major +Barttelot 129 cases Remington rifle cartridges, in addition to the +twenty-nine left by me at Yambuya. These 158 cases contain 80,000 rounds. +By June 9th (see Barttelot's Report) this supply has dwindled down to +35,580 rounds. There has been no marching, no fighting. They have +decreased during a camp life of eleven months in the most unaccountable +manner. There are left with the rear column only sufficient to give fifty +rounds to each rifle in the possession of Emin Pasha's troops. Half of +the gunpowder, and more than two-thirds of the bales of cloth, have +disappeared. Though Yambuya originally contained a store of 300,000 +percussion-caps, it has been found necessary to purchase £48 worth from +Tippu-Tib. + +4th. "The loads we do not take are to be sent to Bangala. They will be +loaded (on the steamers) on June 8th (1888), a receipt being given for +them by Mr. Van Kerkhoven, which is forwarded to you; also a letter of +instructions to him and to Mr. Ward. Perhaps you would kindly give the +requisite order concerning the loads and two canoes purchased for Mr. +Ward's transport, as it is nearly certain I shall not return that way, +and shall have, therefore, no further need of them _or him_." (See +Appendix--Barttelot's Report). + +Mr. Ward has been despatched down river to telegraph to the Committee for +instructions; he was supposed to bring those instructions back from the +sea with him. Here we are told the Major has no further need of him. He +has also written to Captain Van Kerkhoven, of Bangala, not to allow him +to ascend above Bangala. In the last paragraph of Mr. Jameson's letter to +Mr. Bonny I note a reference to this change. + +5th. The rear column consisted of 271 souls rank and file when we parted +from Yambuya, June 28th, 1887. + +In October, 1887, this force, according to a letter from the Major, had +decreased to 246 men. + +On June 4th, 1888, while the rear column lies still in the same camp (see +the Major's Report) it has diminished to 135 men rank and file. + +On August 17th, 1888, I demand from Mr. William Bonny, who is in sole +charge at that date, an official report as to the number of men left of +the rear column, and he presents me with the following:-- + +"List of Zanzibaris left by Mr. Stanley at Bolobo and Yambuya, inclusive +of eleven men, deserters, picked up from advance column:-- + + 78 dead. + 26 deserted. + 10 with Mr. Jameson (Bangala). + 29 left sick at Yambuya. + 5 left sick on road. + 75 present at Banalya, August 17th, 1888. + ---- + 223 + + +Return of Soudanese and Somalis and Syrians left at Yambuya:-- + + 21 died. + 1 killed by natives. + 1 executed by order of Major Barttelot. + 3 sent down Congo to Egypt. + 4 left sick at Yambuya. + 1 sick handed over to care of Congo State. + 22 present at Banalya, August 17th, 1888. + ---- + 53 + 223 + ---- + 276 + + +Return of British officers left by Mr. Stanley at Bolobo and Yambuya:-- + + 1 John Rose Troup, invalided home. + 1 Herbert Ward, sent down river by Major Barttelot. + 1 James S. Jameson, proceeded down Congo. + 1 Edmund M. Barttelot, Major (murdered). + 1 William Bonny, present at Banalya, August 17th, 1888. + ---- + 5 + 276 + ---- + 281 + 11 deserters from advance column. + ---- + 270 + 1 error. + ---- + 271 + ---- + + +Dead and lost. + + 78 Zanzibaris dead. + 29 left sick at Yambuya. + 4 left sick at Yambuya. + 5 left sick on road. + 21 Soudanese dead. + 1 killed by natives. + 1 executed. + ---- + 139 + ---- + + +6th. The steamer _Stanley_ arrived at Yambuya on the 14th of August, +within a few days of the date mentioned in the Letter of Instructions. On +the 17th she departs to her port at Leopoldville, and has severed all +connection with the Expedition. The officers of the Congo State have +behaved loyally according to their Sovereign's promise. It only remains +now for the rear column to pack up and depart slowly but steadily along +our track, because Tippu-Tib has not arrived, and according to the issue +anticipated will not come. + +I turn to Mr. Bonny, and ask, "Were you not all anxious to be at work?" + +"Yes, sir." + +"Were you not burning to be off from Yambuya?" + +"Yes, sir." + +"Were you all equally desirous to be on the road?" + +"I believe so. Yes, sir." + +"Well, Mr. Bonny, tell me--if it be true that you were all burning, +eager, and anxious to be off--why you did not devise some plan better +than travelling backwards and forwards between Yambuya and Stanley +Falls?" + +"I am sure I don't know, sir. I was not the chief, and if you will +observe, in the Letter of Instructions you did not even mention my +name." + +"That is very true; I ask your pardon; but you surely did not remain +silent because I omitted to mention your name, did you--you a salaried +official of the Expedition?" + +"No, sir. I did speak often." + +"Did the others?" + +"I don't know, sir." + +I have never obtained further light from Mr. Bonny, though at every +leisure hour it was a constant theme. + +A year after this we were at Usambiro, south of the Victoria Nyanza, and +I received a clipping of a newspaper wherein there was a copy of Major +Barttelot's letter of October, 1887. There was a portion which said, "We +shall be obliged to stay here until November." I know that they thought +they were obliged to remain until June 11, 1888. I turn to Major +Barttelot's letter of June 4th, 1888 (see Appendix), wherein he says, "I +feel it my bounden duty to proceed on this business, in which I am fully +upheld by both Mr. Jameson and Mr. Bonny; to wait longer would be both +useless and culpable, as Tippu-Tib has not the remotest intention of +helping us any more, and to withdraw would be pusillanimous, and, I am +certain, entirely contrary to your wishes and those of the Committee." + +I turned to my Letter of Instructions, and I find in Paragraph 10: + +"It may happen that though Tippu-Tib has sent some men, he has not sent +enough to carry the goods with your own force. In that case you will of +course use your discretion as to what goods you can dispense with, to +enable you to march." + +Paragraph 11. "If you still cannot march, then it would be better to make +marches of six miles twice over, if you prefer marching to staying for +our arrival, than throw too many things away." (See Letter of +Instructions in a preceding chapter.) + +At Usambiro also I received the answer which the Committee sent in reply +to Mr. Ward's cablegram from St. Paul de Loanda, asking them to "wire +advice and opinion." + + _To Major Barttelot, Care Ward, Congo._ + + "_Committee refer you to Stanley's orders of the 24th June. If you + still cannot march in accordance with these orders, then stay where + you are, awaiting his arrival, or until you receive fresh + instructions from Stanley."_ + +A committee 6000 miles away penetrate into the spirit of the instructions +instantly, but a committee of five officers at Yambuya do not appear to +understand them, though they have been drawn up on the clear +understanding that each officer would prefer active movement and +occupation to an inactive life and idle waiting at Yambuya. + +7th. Mr. William Bonny, whose capacity to undertake serious +responsibilities is unknown to me, is not mentioned in the Letter of +Instructions. + +On my return to Banalya, Mr. Bonny hands me the following order written +by Major Barttelot. + + "Yambuya Camp, + "_April 22nd, 1888_. + + "Sir,--In event of my death, detention of Arabs, absence from any + cause from Yambuya camp, you will assume charge of the Soudanese + company, the Zanzibar company, and take charge of the stores, + sleeping in the house where they are placed. All orders to + Zanzibaris, Somalis, and Soudanese will be issued by you and to + them only. All issues of cloth, matako (brass rods), etc., will be + at your discretion, but expenditure of all kinds must as much as + possible be kept under. Relief to Mr. Stanley, care of the loads + and men, good understanding between yourself and the Arabs must be + your earnest care; anything or anybody attempting to interfere + between you and these matters must be instantly removed. + + "I have the honour to be, Sir, &c., + "Edmund M. Barttelot, + "_Major_." + +What remains for the faithful Jameson, "whose alacrity, capacity, and +willingness to work are unbounded," to do? Where is the promising, +intelligent, and capable Ward? What position remains for the methodical, +business-like, and zealous Mr. John Rose Troup? Mr. Bonny has been +suddenly elevated to the command of the rear column in the event of any +unhappy accident to Major Barttelot. + +My first fear was that I had become insane. When I alone of all men +attempt to reconcile these inexplicable contrarinesses with what I know +animated each and every officer of the rear column, I find that all the +wise editors of London differ from me. In the wonderful log-book entries +I read noble zeal, indefatigable labour, marches and counter-marches, and +a limitless patience. In the Major's official report, in Mr. Jameson's +last sad letter (see Appendix), I discern a singleness of purpose, +inflexible resolve and the true fibre of loyalty, tireless energy, and +faith, and a devotion which disdains all calculation of cost. When I came +to compare these things one with another, my conclusion was that the +officers at Yambuya had manifestly been indifferent to the letter of +instructions, and had forgotten their promises. When Mr. Bonny told me +that one of them had risen at a mess meeting to propose that my +instructions should be cancelled, and that the ideas of Major Barttelot +should be carried out in future--it did appear to me that the most +charitable construction that could be placed upon such conduct was that +they were indifferent to any suggestions which had been drawn out +purposely to satisfy their own oft-repeated desire of "moving on." + +But how I wish that I had been there for just one hour only on that +August 17th, 1887, when the five officers were assembled--adrift and +away, finally from all touch with civilization--to discuss what they +should do, to tell them that + + "Joy's soul lies in the doing, + And the rapture of pursuing + Is the prize." + +To remind them that + + "The path of duty is the way to glory." + +What! count your hundreds of loads! What are they? Look, it is simply +this: 200 carriers are here to-day. There are 500 loads. Hence to the +next village is ten miles. In six days your 200 men have carried the 500 +loads ten miles. In four months you are inland about 150 miles. In eight +months you are 300 miles nearer to the Nyanza, and long before that time +you have lightened your labours by conveying most of your burdens in +canoes; you will have heard all about that advance column as early as +October, the second month of work; for powder and guns, you may get +Ugarrowwa's flotilla to help you, and by the time the advance column +starts from Fort Bodo to hunt you up, you will be safe in Ugarrowwa's +settlement, and long before that you will have met the couriers with +charts of the route with exact information of what lies before you, where +food is to be obtained, and every one of you will be healthier and +happier, and you will have the satisfaction of having performed even a +greater task than the advance column, and obtained the "kudos" which you +desired. The bigger the work the greater the joy in doing it. That +whole-hearted striving and wrestling with Difficulty; the laying hold +with firm grip and level head and calm resolution of the monster, and +tugging, and toiling, and wrestling at it, to-day, to-morrow, and the +next until it is done; it is the soldier's creed of forward, ever +forward--it is the man's faith that for this task was he born. Don't +think of the morrow's task, but what you have to do to-day, and go at it. +When it is over, rest tranquilly, and sleep well. + +But I was unable to be present; I could only rely on their promise that +they would limit their faith in Tippu-Tib until the concentration of all +officers and men attached to the rear column, and insist that the blazing +on the trees, the broad arrow-heads pointing the way, should be well made +for their clear guidance through the almost endless woods, from one side +of the forest to its farthest edge. Yet curiously hungering to know why +Barttelot, who was "spoiling for work," and Jameson, who was so earnest, +and had paid a thousand pounds for the privilege of being with us, and +Ward, who I thought was to be the future Clive of Africa, and Troup, so +noted for his industry, and Bonny, so steady and so obedient, so +unconsciously acted as to utterly prevent them from doing what I believe +from my soul they wished to do as much as I or any other of us did, a +conviction flashes upon my mind that there has been a supernatural +malignant influence or agency at work to thwart every honest intention. + +A few instances will tend to strengthen this conviction. I freely and +heartily admit that the five officers burned to leave Yambuya, and to +assist in prosecuting unto successful issue the unique enterprise they +had sacrificed so much comfort to join. But they are utterly unable to +move, try how they may. They believe I am alive, and they vow to make a +strenuous quest for me, but they reduce me to nakedness. They are +determined to start in quest and relief of Emin Pasha, because "to +withdraw would be pusillanimous, and to stay longer would be culpable," +and yet they part with the necessary ammunition that they wish to carry +to him. They confess that there are thirty-three sick men unable to move +at Yambuya, and yet the very stores, medicaments, and wine that might +have saved them they box up and send to Bangala, after first obtaining a +receipt for them. They have all signed agreements wherein each officer +shall have a fair share of all European preserved provisions, perfect +delicacies, and yet they decline to eat them, or allow the sick men to +eat them, but despatch them out of the hungry woods to the station of +Bangala. Mr. Bonny, as I understand, expressed no regret or audible +dissent at their departure. From pure habit of discipline he refrained +from demanding his fair share, and like a good Englishman, but mighty +poor democrat, he parted with his inalienable right without a murmur. +They searched for Manyuema slaves, cannibals of the Bakusu and Basongora +tribes to replace their dead Zanzibaris and Soudanese, Somalis and +Syrians, and it came to pass a few weeks after they had obtained these +cannibals that one of their head men assassinates the English commander. +Also on a fatal date, fatal because that resolution to wait sealed their +fate, an officer of the advance column was straying through an +impenetrable bush with 300 despairing men behind him, and on this fatal +date the next year, Mr. Bonny, the sole survivor of the English band, +pours into my ears a terrible tale of death and disaster, while at the +same hour poor Jameson breathes his last, tired and worn out with his +futile struggles to "move on" at Bangala, 500 miles west of me; and 600 +miles east of me, the next day, Emin Pasha and Mr. Jephson walk into the +arms of the rebel soldiery of Equatoria. + +This is all very uncanny if you think of it. There is a supernatural +_diablerie_ operating which surpasses the conception and attainment of a +mortal man. + +In addition to all these mischiefs a vast crop of lying is germinated in +these darksome shades in the vicinity of Stanley Falls, or along the +course of the Upper Congo, showing a measureless cunning, and an +insatiable love of horror. My own murder appears to be a favourite theme, +quantities of human bones are said to be discovered by some +reconnoitering party, human limbs are said to be found in cooking-pots, +sketches by an amateur artist are reported to have been made of whole +families indulging in cannibal repasts; it is more than hinted that +Englishmen are implicated in raids, murder, and cannibalism, that they +have been making targets of native fugitives while swimming in the +Aruwimi, all for the mere sake of infusing terror, alarm, and grief among +quiet English people, and to plague our friends at home. + +The instruments this dark power elects for the dissemination of these +calumnious fables are as various in their professions as in their +nationality. It is a deserter one day, and the next it is an engineer of +a steamer; it is now a slave-trader, or a slave; it is a guileless +missionary in search of work, or a dismissed Syrian; it is a young artist +with morbid tastes, or it is an officer of the Congo Free State. Each in +his turn becomes possessed with an insane desire to say or write +something which overwhelms common sense, and exceeds ordinary belief. + +From the official written narrative of Mr. William Bonny I glean the +following, and array the facts in clear order. + +The _Stanley_ steamer has departed from Yambuya early in the morning of +August 17th, 1887. The goods she has brought up are stored within the +magazine, and as near as I can gather there are 266 men within the +entrenched camp. As they are said to have met to deliberate upon their +future steps we may assume that the letter of instructions was read, and +that they did not understand them. They think the wisest plan would be to +await Tippu-Tib, who, it will be remembered, had promised to Major +Barttelot that he would be after him within nine days. + +On this day the officers heard firing across the river almost opposite to +Yambuya. Through their binoculars they see the aborigines chased into the +river by men dressed in white clothes, who are shooting at them from the +north or right bank. Conceiving that the marauders must be some of +Tippu-Tib's men, they resolve upon electing an officer and a few men to +interview them, and to cease from molesting the natives who have long ago +become friendly and are under their protection. The officer goes across, +finds their camp, and invites Abdallah, their chief, to visit the English +commander of Yambuya. The Major thus learns that these marauders really +belong to Tippu-Tib, and that Stanley Falls is but six days' march +overland from Yambuya. Probably believing that, after all, Tippu-Tib may +be persuaded to assist the Expedition, he inquires for and obtains guides +to conduct some of his party to Stanley Falls, to speak and treat in his +behalf with that chieftain whom we have conveyed from Zanzibar to Stanley +Falls, with free rations in consideration of the help he had solemnly +contracted to furnish. + +On August 29, Mr. Ward returns from the Falls with a reply from +Tippu-Tib, wherein he promises that he will collect the carriers needed +and send them within ten days. The first promise in June was "in nine +days"; the promise is in August "in ten days." A few days later Mr. +Jameson returns from Stanley Falls in company of Salim bin Mohammed, a +nephew of Tippu-Tib, and a large party of Manyuema. This party is +reported to be the vanguard of the carrier contingent, which Tippu-Tib +will shortly bring in person. + +In the interval of waiting for him, however, trouble breaks out on the +Lumami, and Tippu-Tib is obliged to hurry to the scene to settle it. The +Yambuya garrison, however, are daily expecting his presence. + +Unable to bear the suspense, the second visit to Stanley Falls is +undertaken, this time by Major Barttelot in person. It is the 1st of +October. Salim bin Mohammed accompanied him, and also Mr. Troup. On the +way thither they met Tippu-Tib advancing towards Yambuya, having six +deserters from the advance column, each bearing a weighty tusk. The Major +graciously remits the six ivory tusks to the Arab chief, and, as they +must have a palaver, they go together to Stanley Falls. + +After one month the Major returns to his camp, on the Aruwimi, and states +that Tippu-Tib, unable to muster 600 carriers in the Stanley Falls +region, is obliged to proceed to Kasongo, about 350 miles above Stanley +Falls, and that this journey of about 700 miles (to Kasongo and back) +will occupy forty-two days. + +Meantime, twenty of the Major's own people have been buried outside the +camp. + +The English commander learns that during his absence, Majato, a head man +of the Manyuema, has been behaving "badly," that he has been, in fact, +intimidating the natives who marketed with the garrison, with the view of +starving the soldiers and Zanzibaris, or reaping some gain by acting as +the middleman or factor in the exchange of goods for produce. Hearing +these things, the Major naturally becomes indignant, and forthwith +despatches Mr. Ward, who makes the third visit to the Falls to complain +of the arbitrary conduct of Majato. The complaint is effective, and, +Majato is immediately withdrawn. + +In the beginning of 1888, Salim bin Mohammed arrives at Yambuya for the +second time, and presently becomes so active in enforcing certain +measures against the natives that the food supply of the camp is wholly +cut off and never renewed. He also commences the construction of a +permanent camp of substantial mud-built huts, at half a bow-shot's +distance from the palisades of Yambuya, and completely invests the fort +on the land side, as though he were preparing for a siege of the place. + +After a futile effort to bribe Salim with the offer of a thousand pounds +to lead a Manyuema contingent to follow the track of the advance column, +Major Barttelot and Mr. Jameson, about the middle of February, undertake +the fourth visit to Stanley Falls. Salim, fearing unfavourable accounts +of his behaviour, accompanies them _en route_; the party meet 250 +Manyuema, but as they have no written instructions with them, they are +permitted to scatter over the country in search of ivory. + +In March Salim returns to Yambuya, and intimates to the officers that no +doubt the carriers would be ultimately forthcoming, not however for the +purpose of following Mr. Stanley's track, but to proceed _viâ_ Ujiji and +Unyoro; a mere haziness of geography! + +On the 25th of March, Major Barttlelot returns to the camp with +information that Mr. Jameson, the indefatigable Jameson, has proceeded up +river in the track of Tippu-Tib with the intention of reaching Kasongo. +He also announces his intention of forming a flying column, and leaving +the larger part of his goods at Stanley Falls in charge of an officer! He +also prepares a telegram to the committee in London which is as +follows:-- + + "St. Paul de Loanda, + "_1st May, 1888_. + + "No news of Stanley since writing last October. Tippu-Tib went to + Kasongo, Nov. 16th, but up to March has only got us 250 men. More + are coming, but uncertain in number, and as precaution, presuming + Stanley in trouble (it would) be absurd in me to start with less + number than he did, while carrying more loads--minus Maxim gun. + Therefore I have sent Jameson to Kasongo to hasten Tippu-Tib in + regard to originally proposed number of 600 men, and to obtain as + many fighting men as possible up to 400, also to make as + advantageous terms as he can regarding service, and payment of + men, he and I guaranteeing money in name of Expedition. Jameson + will return about the 14th, but earliest day to start will be June + 1st, when I propose leaving an officer with all loads not + absolutely wanted at Stanley Falls. Ward carries this message; + please obtain wire from the King of the Belgians to the + Administrator of the Free State to place carriers at his disposal, + and have steamers in readiness to convey him to Yambuya. If men + come before his arrival I shall start without him. He should return + about July 1st. Wire advice and opinion. Officers all well. Ward + awaits reply. + + "Barttelot." + +Mr. Ward proceeded down the Congo, and in an unprecedentedly short time +reached the sea-board, cabled his despatch, received the following reply, +and started up the Congo again for the Yambuya camp. + + "Major Barttelot, care Ward, Congo. + + "Committee refer you to Stanley's orders of the 24th June, 1887. If + you still cannot march in accordance with these orders, then stay + where you are, awaiting his arrival or until you receive fresh + instructions from Stanley. Committee do not authorise the + engagement of fighting men. News has been received from Emin Pasha + _viâ_ Zanzibar, dated Wadelai, November 2nd. Stanley was not then + heard of: Emin Pasha is well and in no immediate want of supplies, + and goes to south-west of lake to watch for Stanley. Letters have + been posted regularly _viâ_ East Coast. + + "Chairman of Committee." + +Mr. Ward on arriving at Bangala is detained there by order. + +The Committee have made a slight mistake in calling my letter of +instructions "orders." The instructions are not exactly "orders." They +are suggestions or advices tendered by the Commander of the Expedition to +the Commanding Officer of the rear column, which he may follow or reject +at his own discretion. Major Barttelot has expressed an impatient desire +to be of active service to the Expedition. He declares that it is his +dearest wish to leave Yambuya to follow on our track. The Commander of +the Expedition, strongly sympathising with the impetuous young officer, +writes out a series of suggestions by which his desire may be realized, +and gives him further a pencilled estimate (see Appendix) by what manner +the forward advance after us may be done. The Major earnestly promises to +conform to these suggestions, and the parting between him and myself is +on this understanding. But they are not positive "orders," as a man's +epitaph can best be written after his death, so the measure of "kudos" to +be given a man is best known after the value of his services has been +ascertained. + +At the end of March the Major is on bad terms with Salim bin Mohammed, +which compels him to make a fifth visit to Stanley Falls to obtain his +removal. + +About the middle of April Major Barttelot returns to his camp, and Salim +has orders to quit Yambuya. Instead, however, of proceeding to Stanley +Falls, he proposes a raid upon a large village below Yambuya, but in a +few days he reappears, stating that he has heard a rumour that the +advance column is descending the upper waters of the Aruwimi. + +On the 9th of May, 1888, the Major proceeds to make a sixth visit to +Stanley Falls, and on the 22nd of the month makes his reappearance with +the indefatigable Jameson and a large party of Manyuema. Three days later +the procrastinating Tippu-Tib, who, on the 18th of June, 1887, said that +he would be at Yambuya within nine days, and in August within ten days, +arrives by steamer _A. I. A._ The _Stanley_ also steams up to deliver +letters for the expedition. + +As Tippu-Tib suggested that the loads 60lbs. weight were too heavy for +his people, the officers were obliged to reduce them to 40, 30, and 20lb. +weights, to suit his views. This was no light task, but it had to be +performed. As an advance payment, Mr. Bonny relates that forty-seven +bales of cloth, a vast store of powder and fixed ammunition are +delivered, and £128 worth of stores are given to Muini Sumai, the head +man of the Manyuema battalion. The European provisions are then +overhauled, and such articles as Madeira wine, jams, sago, tapioca, +arrowroot, sardines, herrings, and wheat flour are boxed up, and with +eight boxes of my baggage are shipped on board the steamer for Bangala as +unnecessary and superfluous, in the same vessel on which Mr. Troup is an +invalid passenger bound home. + +Finally, on the 11th of June, 1888, after weeding out twenty-nine +Zanzibaris and four Soudanese who are too feeble to work, Messrs. +Barttelot, Jameson, and Bonny leave the camp they should have left not +later than the 25th of August, 1887, with a following of Zanzibaris, +Soudanese, Somalis, and Manyuema, aggregating nearly 900 men, women, and +children, with the intention of making that "strenuous quest" for the +lost Commander and to relieve Emin Pasha. + +These six visits to Stanley Falls which the Major and his friends have +made amount in the aggeregate to 1200 English miles of marching. The +untiring Major has personally travelled 800 miles, while Jameson has +performed 1200 miles. If only these 1200 miles had been travelled between +Yambuya and the Albert, the rear column would have reached Panga Falls. +Even by travelling sixty miles, to gain a direct advance of ten miles, +they would have been cheered and encouraged by our letters and charts to +press on to Avejeli to recuperate among the abundant plantains of that +rich and populous settlement. + +But while the Major and his officers were endeavouring to stimulate an +unwilling man to perform his contract with forty-five guinea rifles, +Remington rifles, ivory-handled revolvers and ammunition, with many a +fair bale of cloth, their own faithful men were dying at a frightful +rate. Out of the original roll of 271, there are only 132 left of rank +and file, and out of these 132 by the time they have arrived at Banalya +there are only 101 remaining, and nearly a half of these are so wasted by +famine and disease that there is no hope of life in them. + +Thirteen days after the departure of the horde of Manyuema and the anæmic +Zanzibaris from the fatal camp of Yambuya, the Major undertakes a seventh +visit to Stanley Falls, and leaves the column to struggle on its way to +Banalya without him. On the forty-third day of the march of ninety miles +the van of the rear column enters the palisaded village of Banalya, which +has become in my absence a station of Tippu-Tib's in charge of an Arab +called Abdallah Karoni, and on the same day the restless and enterprising +Major enters it on his return from Stanley Falls. On the next day some +misunderstanding takes place between him and the chief Abdallah Karoni. +The Major storms at him, and threatens to start to Stanley Falls for the +eighth visit on the 20th of July to complain of his conduct to Tippu-Tib; +but at dawn on the 19th of July the unfortunate commander is shot through +the heart by the assassin Sanga. + +I will permit Mr. William Bonny's official report to detail what occurred +in a revised form. + + "_18th July, 1888._--The Major continued to threaten Abdalla that + if he did not get the carriers promised by Tippu-Tib he would + return to Stanley Falls on the 20th, and he ordered the Arab to + accompany him. The Major informed me he would be back on the 9th of + August, but before concluding his remarks, he asked me, 'Don't you + think I am doing the correct thing by going to Stanley Falls?' I + answered, 'No, I don't see why you want sixty more men; you have + men enough and to spare! You had better issue the rifles and + ammunition to the men, and that will reduce the number of our + burdens by fifteen, and trust the men. Mr. Stanley is obliged to + trust the men. If they run away from you, they run away from him, + but if you leave them in my hands I don't think they will run.' The + Major said, 'I intend that you shall have command of the Zanzibaris + and Soudanese from here, and you shall precede the Manyuema a day's + march. Mr. Jameson and I will march with the Manyuema and get them + into some order, and see they do not mix up with your people. I + don't want to go to the Falls, but I want you to try to get some + few men. If you only get me twenty I shall be satisfied. I asked + Abdallah if he could let me have a few carriers. I obtained + seven.' + + "_19th July._--Early this morning a Manyuema woman commenced + beating a drum and singing. It is their daily custom. The Major + sent his boy Soudi, who was only about thirteen years old, to stop + them, but at once loud and angry voices were heard, followed by two + shots by way of defiance. The Major ordered some Soudanese to go + and find the men who were firing, at the same time getting up from + bed himself and taking his revolvers from the case. He said, 'I + will shoot the first man I catch firing.' I told him not to + interfere with the people's daily custom, to remain inside, and not + go out, inasmuch as they would soon be quiet. He went out revolver + in hand to where the Soudanese were. They told him that they could + not find the men who were firing. The Major then pushed aside some + Manyuema and passed through them towards the woman who was beating + the drum and singing, and ordered her to desist. Just then a shot + was fired through a loophole, in an opposite hut from within, by + Sanga, the woman's husband. The charge penetrated just below the + region of the heart and passed out behind, lodging finally in a + part of the verandah under which the Major fell dead. + + "The Soudanese ran away, and refused to follow me to get the + Major's body; but I went, and was followed by one Somali, and one + Soudanese, who with myself carried the body to my house. From the + screaming I thought a general massacre had commenced, for I had not + seen a single Zanzibari. They were either hiding within their + houses or joining in the general stampede that followed. I now + turned and saw one of the headmen of the Manyuema, who with rifle + and revolver in hand was leading a body of sixty of his people to + attack me. I had no arms. I walked up to him and asked him if he + was leading his men to fight me. He replied 'No.' I said, 'Then + take your men quietly to their houses and bring all the headmen to + me, for I wish to speak to them.' Some headmen shortly afterwards + made their appearance, and I said to them, 'The trouble is not + mine, but Tippu-Tib's. I want you to bring me all the loads, and + tell all your fellows to do the same. Tippu-Tib knows what each of + you has in charge and is responsible for them. This is Tippu-Tib's + trouble. Tippu-Tib will have to pay up if the goods are lost, and + will punish the headman who causes him a loss. I shall write to + him, and he will come here, and he shall know the name of him who + refuses to do what I now wish.' This resulted in my getting back to + the storeroom about 150 loads. I now sent my men to collect what + goods they could, and before long I recovered 299 porter loads. + They had been scattered all over the place, some in the forest, in + the rice field, and in the village huts hidden away within and + without, in fact everywhere. Some of the bead sacks and ammunition + boxes had already been ripped or broken open, and the whole of + their contents, or in part, gone. After counting up I found I was + forty-eight loads short. The inhabitants of the village numbered + about 200 or 300 people. I had arrived with about 100 men; Muni + Sumai, the chief headman of the Manyuema, with 430 carriers and + about 200 followers, making a total of about 1000 people, of whom + 900 were cannibals, all confined within an area 160 yards by 25 + yards. You can therefore better judge than I can describe the scene + when the general stampede commenced, the screaming, firing, + shouting, looting our stores, &c., &c. I regret to say that the + Soudanese and Zanzibaris without exception joined in the looting, + but in my turn I raided their houses and haunts and captured a + quantity of cloth, beads, rice, &c. I had to punish severely before + I succeeded in stopping it. I now wrote to Mr. Jameson, who was + about four days off bringing up the remaining loads. I also wrote + to Mons. Baert, a Congo State officer, and secretary to Tippu-Tib + at Stanley Falls, explaining what had taken place, how I was + situated, and asking him to use all his tact with Tippu-Tib to get + him to come here or send some chief to replace Muini Sumai, who had + been one of the first to abscond. I told Mons. Baert to tell + Tippu-Tib that all Europe would blame him if he did not assist us. + I then buried the Major, after sewing the body up in a blanket. I + dug a grave just within the forest, placing leaves as a cushion at + the bottom of the grave, and covered the body with the same. I then + read the church service from our Prayer-Book over the body, and + this brought the terrible day to a close. + + "The Major wrote and handed me the official order appointing me in + command of the Zanzibari and Soudanese when the camp at Yambuya was + in great danger,and his own life especially. I therefore take + command of this Second Column of the Emin Pasha Relief Expedition + until I see Mr. Stanley or return to the coast. + + "It shall be my constant care under God's help to make it more + successful than heretofore. Mr. Jameson will occupy the same + position as shown in Mr. Stanley's instructions to Major Barttelot + on his going to Stanley Falls to settle with Tippu-Tib for another + headman of the Manyuema. He has free hands, believing himself to be + in command. I did not undeceive him. On his return here I will show + him the document, a copy of which I have given above. + + "I have the honour to be, Sir, + "&c., &c., + "William Bonny. + + "To H. M. Stanley, Esq., + "Commander E.P.R.E." + +Three days after the tragedy Mr. Jameson appears at Banalya with the rear +guard of the rear column, and assumes command; but on the 25th of July, +after leaving words of encouragement to Mr. Bonny, he undertakes the +eighth visit to Stanley Falls in the hope that by making liberal offers +of gold to satisfy the avaricious Tippu-Tib he may induce him either to +head the Rear Column himself, or send one of his fiery nephews in his +place--Salim bin Mohammed, or Rashid, who assaulted and captured Stanley +Falls from Captain Deane. + +On August 12th he writes his last letter (see Appendix) to Mr. Bonny, and +begins it, "The Expedition is at a very low ebb at present, as I think +you will acknowledge." This is a sad fact very patent to everybody. + +After seeing the act of justice performed on the wretched assassin Sanga, +and witnessing the shooting of him and the body tossed into the Congo, he +departs from Stanley Falls for Bangala. For Mr. Jameson and Major +Barttelot were both concerned in the detention of Ward for some reason at +Bangala, and therefore the answer of the Committee to their cablegram of +the 1st of May was in his possession. Mr. Jameson is anxious to know what +its tenor is before a final movement, and he departs in a canoe with ten +Zanzibaris. Night and day they float, and when opposite the Lumami he is +attacked with fever. His constitution is open to its virulence, filled as +his mind is with despondency, for the fortunes of the Expedition +are--despite every strenuous endeavour on his part, his whole-hearted +devotion, his marches and counter-marches, his tramp of 1400 miles (1200 +miles before leaving Yambuya, thence to Banalya, and then to Stanley +Falls), his sacrifice of money, physical comforts, and the pouring out of +his soul to effect what he thinks ought to be done--but alas! "at their +lowest ebb." And the fever mounts to his brain. By day and night the +canoemen press on to the goal of Bangala Station, and arrive in time to +put him in the arms of Mr. Ward, where he breathes his last, as the +advance column, returning after its rushing and swinging pace through +forest and by river from the Albert Nyanza, enter Banalya to demand +"Where is Jameson?" + +Twenty-eight days after the tragic death of Major Barttelot, and +twenty-three days after the departure of Jameson, the advance column +returning from the Albert Nyanza, much reduced in numbers, and so +tattered in their clothing that they were taken for pagans picked up by +the way and their old comrades failed to recognise them, appeared at +Banalya to learn for the first time the distressful story of the rear +column. + +The life of misery which was related was increased by the misery which +we saw. Pen cannot picture nor tongue relate the full horrors witnessed +within that dreadful pest-hold. The nameless scourge of barbarians was +visible in the faces and bodies of many a hideous-looking human being, +who, disfigured, bloated, marred and scarred, came, impelled by +curiosity, to hear and see us who had come from the forest land east, and +who were reckless of the terror they inspired by the death embodied in +them. There were six dead bodies lying unburied, and the smitten living +with their festers lounged in front of us by the dozen. Others worn to +thin skin and staring bone from dysentery and fell anæmia, and ulcers as +large as saucers, crawled about and hollowly sounded their dismal +welcome--a welcome to this charnel yard! Weak, wearied, and jaded in +body and mind, I scarcely know how I endured the first few hours, the +ceaseless story of calamity vexed my ears, a deadly stench of disease +hung in the air, and the most repellent sights moved and surged before +my dazed eyes. I heard of murder and death, of sickness and sorrow, +anguish and grief, and wherever I looked the hollow eyes of dying men met +my own with such trusting, pleading regard, such far-away yearning +looks, that it seemed to me if but one sob was uttered my heart would +break. I sat stupefied under a suffocating sense of despondency, yet the +harrowing story moved on in a dismal cadence that had nought else in it +but death and disaster, disaster and death. A hundred graves at +Yambuya--thirty-three men perishing abandoned in the camp, ten dead +on the road, about forty in the village about to yield their feeble hold +of life, desertions over twenty, rescued a passable sixty! And of the +gallant band of Englishmen? "Barttelot's grave is but a few yards off, +Troup went home a skeleton, Ward is somewhere a wanderer, Jameson has +gone to the Falls, I don't know why." "And you--you are the only one +left?" "The only one, sir." + +If I were to record all that I saw at Banalya in its deep intensity of +unqualified misery, it would be like stripping the bandages off a vast +sloughing ulcer, striated with bleeding arteries, to the public gaze, +with no earthly purpose than to shock and disgust. + +Implicitly believing as we did in the _élan_ of Barttelot, in the +fidelity of Jameson, in the vigorous youth and manly promise of Ward, in +the prudence and trustworthiness of Troup, and the self-command and +steadiness of Bonny, all these revelations came to me with a severe +shock. The column was so complete with every requisite for prolonged and +useful work, but the "flood-tide of opportunity" flowed before them +unseen and unnoted, therefore their marches became mere "marking time." + +What, Barttelot! that tireless man with the ever-rushing pace, that +cheery young soldier, with his dauntless bearing, whose soul was ever +yearning for glory. A man so lavishly equipped with Nature's advantages +to bow the knee thus to the grey craftiness at Stanley Falls! It was all +an unsolved riddle to me. I would have wagered he would have seized that +flowing grey beard of Tippu-Tib and pounded the face to pulp, even in the +midst of his power, rather than allow himself to be thus cajoled time and +time again. The fervid vehemence of his promise not to wait a day after +the fixed date yet rings in my ears; I feel the strong grip, and see the +resolute face, and I remember my glowing confidence in him. + +It is said that "Still waters run deep." Now Jameson was such a still, +and patient, and withal determined man that we all conceded a certain +greatness to him. He had paid £1000 sterling, and had promised diligence +and zealous service, for the privilege of being enrolled as a member of +the Expedition. He had a passion for natural history to gratify, with a +marked partiality for ornithology and entomology. According to Barttelot, +"his alacrity, capacity, and willingness to work were unbounded," which I +unqualifiedly endorse. What else he was may be best learned in his letter +of August 12, and his entries in the log book. Zeal and activity grow +into promise and relief as we read, he seals his devotion by offering out +of his purse £10,000, and by that unhappy canoe voyage by day and by +night, until he was lifted to his bed to die at Bangala. + +Granted that Tippu-Tib was kind to these young gentlemen during their +frequent visits to Stanley Falls, and welcomed and feasted them on the +best, and that he sent them back to Yambuya with loads of rice and flocks +of goats, which is admitted. But his natural love of power, his ignorance +of geography, his barbarous conceit, his growing indolence, and his +quickened avarice proved insuperable obstacles to the realizing of +Barttelot and Jameson's wishes, and were as fatally opposite to their +interests and dearest desires as open war would have been. The wonder to +me is that the officers never seem to be conscious that their visits and +rich gifts to him are utterly profitless, and that the object they have +at heart, their inherited qualities, their education, habits, and natures +forbid any further repetition of them. For some mysterious reason they +pin their faith with the utmost tenacity to Tippu-Tib, and to his +promises of "nine days," then "ten days," then "forty-two days," &c., +&c., all of which are made only to be broken. + +But the most icy heart may well be melted with compassion for these +young men so prematurely cut off--and so near rescue after all. They +bravely attempt to free their clouded minds and to judge clearly in which +course lies their duty. At their mess-table they sit discussing what +ought to be done. Mind gravitates to mind, and ignites a spark of the +right sort; it is uttered, but some one or something quenches the spark +as soon as it flashes, and the goodly purpose goes astray. They +propose a number of schemes wide apart from the simple suggestions that I +have furnished them with, and each project as soon as it is born is +frustrated by some untoward event soon after. Though they all are +undoubtedly animated by the purest motives, and remain to the end +unquestionably loyal--throughout every act they are doing themselves +irreparable injury, and unconsciously weighing their friends of the +advance column down to the verge of despair with anxieties. + +The following is Mr. Herbert Ward's report, which in justice I feel bound +to publish:-- + + "Windsor Hotel, + "New York City, + "_Feb. 13th, 1890_. + + "On August 14th, 1887, Troup, Bonny, and myself, with the men and + loads, arrived at Yambuya from Bolobo. We found that since your + departure on June 28th, 1887, nothing had been heard of Tippu-Tib, + and that the Major and Jameson had occupied their time in obtaining + firewood for the steamer. On the following afternoon after our + arrival, a band of Manyuema attacked the temporary village that the + Chief Ngunga had built on the opposite side of the river, just + below the rapids. Bonny and I crossed in a canoe to discover who + they were, but apparently as soon as they saw the steamer lying + alongside our camp, they cleared off into the forest, and returned + to their own camp, which the natives told us was but a few hours' + journey up the river. The next day the head man of the Manyuemas, + named Abdallah, came to us with a few followers, and gave an + account of how Tippu-Tib, true to his word, had sent about 500 men + to us in canoes under Salim bin Mohammed, but that they had + encountered much hostility from the natives, and after paddling + against the stream for several days, and finding no indication of + our camp they disbanded, and Salim sent small bands of Manyuemas in + different directions to try and discover our whereabouts, and + Abdallah represented himself as being the headman of one of the + parties sent in search of our camp. Another version of the story to + account for the 500 men disbanding when on their way up the + Aruwimi, was that their ammunition had given out, and the natives + proved too strong for them. Abdallah stated that Tippu-Tib was + quite willing to supply the men, and that as Stanley Falls was only + a few days' journey, we could easily go ourselves and see + Tippu-Tib, and that he himself would be ready the next day to + accompany us and act as guide. + + "The Major instructed Jameson and myself to proceed to the Falls. + We were there told the same story again, of how Tippu-Tib had sent + a large number of men to us, but that they had disbanded on the + Aruwimi River on account of their being unable to pass some + populous village, where the natives had attacked and driven them + back, as they were short of gunpowder. Tippu-Tib professed his + willingness to supply the men, but said that it would require some + time to collect them together again. + + "As there were upwards of 600 valuable loads stored in Yambuya + Camp, and only a sufficient number of able-bodied men to carry 175, + we all considered it better to guard the loads in the camp where + there was abundance of food for the men, until the arrival of + Tippu-Tib's promised aid than to discard a portion of the loads and + to make triple marches; for we were all convinced from evidence we + had of men even deserting from the camp, that after the first few + days' marching most of our men would desert and join the Arab band + of Waswahili and Manyuema raiders, who, we found, were traversing + the country in all directions, and whose free, unrestrained manner + of living rendered our men dissatisfied with their lot, and tempted + them to desert us and accompany their compatriots. The Major, our + chief, personally disliked the Zanzibaris, and lacked the proper + influence over them. + + "Tippu-Tib continued to procrastinate, and in the meantime a large + number of our Zanzibaris, many of whom, however, from the first + were organically diseased and poorly, sickened and died. They were + always employed, and the cause of their death cannot be attributed + to inaction. Being fatalists, they resigned themselves without an + effort, for the _Bwana Makubwa_, with their comrades, had gone into + the dark forests, and they all verily believed had perished. They + themselves, when they found that upon no consideration would there + ever be a chance of returning to their own country except by the + deadly forest route, looked upon the situation as hopeless, gave + way, and died. + + "We expected you to return to Yambuya about the end of November; + but time passed away and we received no news from you. We were + unable to make triple marches owing to the sad condition of our + people. Every means was tried to urge Tippu-Tib to produce the men, + but without avail. + + "In February, 1888, the Major and Jameson went again to the Falls, + and on the 24th March the Major returned to Yambuya. He stated that + he had guaranteed the payment of a large sum of money to Tippu-Tib + if he would produce the men, that Jameson had gone to Kasongo to + hurry them up, and that he considered that the Committee should be + informed of the state of affairs; firstly, that no news whatever + had been received from you since your departure, nine months + before; secondly, that Tippu-Tib's aid was not forthcoming, that we + were still in Yambuya unable to march. No steamers had visited the + camp since the arrival of the last contingent. + + "It appeared to us that evidently circumstances had prevented you + from communicating with us after your departure, and that news + about your movements might have reached the east coast. + + "As it appeared possible to reach Loanda and communicate by cable + with the Committee and return to Yambuya by the time Jameson was + expected from Kasongo, the Major instructed me to convey and + despatch a cablegram which he himself worded and signed. I + accomplished the journey in thirty days, and immediately upon + receiving their reply (the clause "we refer you to Mr. Stanley's + instructions of June 24th," was precisely what both Troup and I + expected before my departure), I hastened back as far as Bangala, + where I was instructed to remain by the Major until I received + further news from the Committee, to whom he had written, that he + had no further use for my services or the loads he had sent down in + _Le Stanley_. + + "Five weeks after my arrival at Bangala, news came down by the _En + Avant_ that the Major had been assassinated. Jameson, who was at + the Falls seeing to the punishment of the murderer and + reorganisation of the Manyuema contingent, wrote and urged me to + stay at Bangala. Having descended from the Falls in canoes, he was + in the last stage of bilious fever. Despite every care and + attention, he died the following day. He came down to Bangala to + learn the Committee's reply to the Major's cable, and to take back + the Bangala loads and myself in the steamer that the State officer + at the Falls had assured him would be at Bangala on its way up to + the Falls just about the time he would arrive. This information + about the steamer was false, and on the first day of his journey + down in the canoes he caught a fatal chill, which resulted in his + death from bilious fever. There being no possible chance of my + joining Bonny, as no steamer was to again visit the Falls for some + months, I went to the coast to acquaint the Committee with the fact + of Jameson's death, and the position of affairs as I learnt them + from Jameson before his death. They cabled an order for me to + return to the Falls, and hand over the remaining stores to the + State Station there, and to bring down Bonny and the men for + shipment. Upon reaching Stanley Pool I found that news had just + been received of your arrival at Banalya and return to Emin Pasha. + I continued my journey, however, to the Falls, and took up with me + all the loads that the Major had sent down to Bangala. I remained + one month at the Falls anxiously hoping for further news of you. + + "After collecting all that remained of the sick men whom the Major + handed over to Tippu-Tib, I descended the Congo again in canoes and + returned to Europe according to the cabled instructions of the + Committee. + + "The above is a simple and truthful statement of facts relating to + the failure of the rear guard. + + "No one can feel more bitterly disappointed at the unfortunate + condition of affairs than myself. I regret most sincerely that my + services were so profitless. + + "I remain, + "Always yours faithfully, + (Signed) "Herbert Ward. + + "Henry M. Stanley, Esq." + +Mr. Ward informed me that he had discovered my eight boxes of reserve +clothing and Expedition necessaries at Bangala; that he took them with +him to Stanley Falls--500 miles above Bangala--and then brought them down +to Banana Point on the sea-coast, where he left them. No person +knows--though diligent enquiry has been made--what has become of them. + + + + +APPENDIX. + +Major Barttelot's Last Report of events at Yambuya:-- + + + Yambuya Camp, _June 4, 1888_. + + Sir,--I have the honour to report to yon that we are about to make + a move, though with far less numbers than I originally intended. + Tippu-Tib has at last, but with great reluctance, given us 400 men. + I have also obtained from another Arab called Muini Somai thirty + more carriers; we shall move not earlier than the 9th of June, and + our forces will be as follows:--Soudanese 22, rifles 22; Zanzibaris + 110, rifles 110, loads 90; Manyuema 430, muskets 300, loads 380. + The officers who are going are Major Barttelot, in command; Mr. J. + S. Jameson, second in command; Mr. W. Bonny; Sheik Muiui Somai in + command of Manyuema force. + + Sheik Muini Somai is an Arab of Kibongé, who volunteered to + accompany the Expedition as commander under me of the native + contingent. + + On May 8, the Belgian steamer _A. I. A._, with M. van Kerkhoven, + the chief of Bangala, arrived here, having on board Mr. Ward's + escort of thirty Zanzibaris and four Soudanese, one Soudanese dying + at Bangala. + + _May 11th._-- They left us to go to Stanley Falls. + + _May 14th._--I left for Stanley Falls, going overland and catching + the steamer at Yallasula, on the Congo. I proceeded with the + Belgians to the Falls on May 22. + + Mr. Jameson and Tippu-Tib, with 400 men, returned from Kasongo. + + Mr. Jameson wrote to you while at Kasongo of his proceedings there. + He told me on arrival that Tippu-Tib had promised him 800 men, but + would make no written agreement with him. + + _May 23rd._--I had my palaver with Tippu-Tib; he then told me he + could only let me have 400 men, 300 of whom were to carry 40-lb. + loads, and 100 20-lb. loads. He said the men were present, and + ready to start as soon as I had my loads ready. I told him of what + he had promised Mr. Jameson at Kasongo, but he said never had any + mention of 800 men been made, only of the 400. That it was quite + impossible he could give us more men, as he was short of men at + Kasongo and Nyangwé, as he was at present engaged in so many wars + that he had completely drained the country. I was forced to + submit, but hoped that he might be able to collect another 100 or + so at and around Yambuya. + + Tippu then asked me if I wanted a headman, stating that in the + former agreement Mr. Stanley had said that if a headman was taken + he should be paid. I replied, Certainly I want a headman. He then + presented me to the Arab, Muini Somai. This man agreed to come, and + I send you the terms I settled with him. + + I got back to Camp Yambuya May 30. + + _June 4th._--The _Stanley_ steamer arrived, and the _A. I. A._, the + former bringing Belgian officers for the Falls Station, the latter + Tippu-Tib himself. + + _June 5th._--I had another palaver with Tippu-Tib, asking him where + were the 250 men already sent; he explained to me that they had + been dispersed, and on trying to collect them they refused to come, + owing to the bad reports brought in by the deserters, and that as + they were subjects and not slaves he could not force them. That was + the reason why he had brought 400 entirely fresh men from Kasongo + for us. + + However, Tippu said he could let me have thirty more men of Muini + Somai. This, as I was so terribly short of men, I agreed to. + + Muini Somai himself appears a willing man, and very anxious to do + his best. He volunteered for the business. I trust you will not + think his payment excessive, but the anxiety it takes away as + regards his men and the safety of the loads is enormous, for he is + responsible for the Manyuema and the loads they carry, and thus + saves the white officers an amount of work and responsibility which + they can now devote to other purposes. + + The loads we do not take are to be sent to Bangala. They will be + loaded up in the _A. I. A._, or _Stanley_, on June 8, a receipt + being given for them by Mr. Van Kerkhoven, which is marked B and + forwarded to you, also a letter of instruction to him and to Mr. + Ward. Perhaps you would kindly give the requisite order concerning + the loads and the two canoes purchased in March for Mr. Ward's + transport, also for those stores purchased by Mr. Ward on behalf of + the Expedition, as it is nearly certain I shall not return this + way, and shall therefore have no further need of them or him. Mr. + Troup, who is in a terrible condition of debility and internal + disarrangement, is proceeding home at his own request. Mr. Bonny's + certificate of his unfitness is attached, and his application + marked E, also letters concerning passage, &c., to M. Fontaine, + marked F. I have given him a passage home at the expense of the + Expedition, as I am sure it would be your and their wish. + + The interpreter, Assad Farran, I am also sending home. He has been, + and is, utterly useless to me, and is in failing health; and if I + took him with me I would only, after a few marches, have either to + carry or leave him, and I am terribly short of carriers. So I have + ventured to send him home with a steerage passage to Cairo, and + have sent a letter to the Consul-General, Cairo, concerning him; + also copy of agreement made by Assad Farran with me on his + proceeding home; also papers of interpreter, Alexander Hadad, who + died June 24, 1887, both marked G. These two interpreters made no + sort of agreement concerning pay, terms of service, &c., when they + agreed to come on this Expedition in February, 1887, so perhaps you + would kindly inform the proper authorities on that subject. With + British troops in Egypt, as interpreters, they would have received + not more than £6 a month and their rations, for as interpreters + they were both very inferior. + + A Soudanese soldier with a diseased leg is also proceeding down + country. Besides these there are four other Soudanese and + twenty-nine Zanzibaris who are unable to proceed with us. Tippu-Tib + has kindly consented to get these to Zanzibar as best he can. A + complete list of them, their payments, &c., will be forwarded to + the Consul at Zanzibar, and I have requested him to forward on the + Soudanese to Egypt. + + My intentions on leaving this camp are to make the best of my way + along the same route taken by Mr. Stanley; should I get no tidings + of him along the road, to proceed as far as Kavalli, and then if I + hear nothing there to proceed to Kibero. If I can ascertain either + at Kavalli or Kibero his whereabouts, no matter how far it may be, + I will endeavour to reach him. Should he be in a fix I will do my + utmost to relieve him. If neither at Kavalli nor Kibero I can + obtain tidings of him, I shall go on to Wadelai and ascertain from + Emin Pasha, if he be there still, if he has any news of Mr. + Stanley, also of his own intentions as regards staying or leaving. + I will persuade him, if possible, to come out with me, and, if + necessary, aid me in my search for Mr. Stanley. Should it for + sundry reasons be unnecessary to look further for Mr. Stanley, I + will place myself and force at his disposal to act as his escort, + proceeding by whichever route is most feasible, so long as it is + not through Uganda, as in that event the Manyuemas would leave me, + as I have promised Tippu-Tib they shall not go there, and that I + will bring them back or send a white officer with them back to + their own country by the shortest and quickest route on completion + of my object. This is always supposing Emin Pasha to be there and + willing to come away. It may be he only needs ammunition to get + away by himself, in which case I would in all probability be able + to supply him, and would send three-fourths of my Zanzibar force + and my two officers with him, and would myself, with the other + Zanzibaris, accompany the Manyuemas back to the Tippu-Tib's + country, and so to the coast, by the shortest route--viz., by the + Muta-Nzigé, Tanganika and Ujiji. This is also the route I should + take should we be unable to find Stanley, or, from the reasons + either that he is not there or does not wish to come, relieve Emin + Pasha. + + I need not tell you that all our endeavours will be most strenuous + to make the quest in which we are going a success, and I hope that + my actions may meet with the approval of the committee, and that + they will suspend all judgment concerning those actions, either in + the present, past, or future, till I or Mr. Jameson return home. + + Rumour is always rife, and is seldom correct, concerning Mr. + Stanley. I can hear no news whatever, though my labours in that + direction have been most strenuous. He is not dead, to the best of + my belief, nor of the Arabs here or at Kasongo. I have been obliged + to open Mr. Stanley's boxes, as I cannot carry all his stuff, and I + had no other means of ascertaining what was in them. Two cases of + Madeira were also sent him. One case I am sending back, the other + has been half given to Mr. Troup, the other half we take as medical + comforts. Concerning Tippu-Tib I have nothing to say beyond that he + has broken faith with us, and can only conjecture from surrounding + events and circumstances the cause of his unreasonable delay in + supplying men, and the paucity of that supply. + + I deem it my bounden duty to proceed on this business, in which I + am fully upheld by both Mr. Jameson and Mr. Bonny; to wait longer + would be both useless and culpable, as Tippu-Tib has not the + remotest intention of helping us any more, and to withdraw would be + pusillanimous, and, I am certain, entirely contrary to your wishes + and those of the committee. + + I calculate it will take me from three to four months to reach the + lakes, and from seven to nine more to reach the coast. + + Should you think and the committee agree that the sum is excessive + to give Muini Somai and are not prepared to meet it, or may be, are + prepared to place only a portion of that at my disposal for that + purpose, both Mr. Jameson and I are fully prepared to meet it or + the remaining portion of it, as it is entirely for our benefit he + is coming; though of course it must be remembered that our object + is to reach our destination with as many of our loads as possible, + and that our individual hold over the Manyuema without outside aid + would be _nil._ Should you agree to place the sum at my disposal, + please arrange accordingly; if only a portion, that portion, for he + has received an advance in powder, cloth, beads, and cowries to the + value of £128. In case of not meeting it or only a portion of it, + please inform Sir Walter Barttelot, Carlton Club. I insert this as + it is most necessary the money should be there when wanted, as + Arabs and Orientals are most punctilious on pecuniary + transactions. + + I have much pleasure in stating that from all the officers of the + State with whom I have come in contact or from whom I have + solicited aid, I have met with a most willing and ready response, + which is highly gratifying. I would particularly mention Captain + Van Kerkhoven, Chief of Bangala, and Lieutenant Liebrechts, Chief + of Stanley Pool, and I trust that they may meet with the reward and + merit they deserve. + + _June 6th._--This morning Tippu-Tib sent for me and asked me if I + thought he would get his money for the men. I told him I could give + no assurance of that. He then said he must have a guarantee, which + I and Mr. Jameson have given; terms of agreement and guarantee are + attached. All receipts, agreements, &c., made between Arabs and + myself and signed by them I have sent to Mr. Holmwood, and the + copies to you. + + _June 8th._--This morning I had the loads for Tippu-Tib's and Muini + Somai's men stacked, and Tippu-Tib himself came down to see them + prior to issuing. However, he took exception to the loads, said + they were too heavy (the heaviest was 45 lbs.), and his men could + not carry them. Two days before he had expressed his approbation of + the weight of the very same loads he refused to-day. I pointed out + to him that he as well as I knew the difficulty of getting any load + other than a bale, to scale the exact weight, and that the loads + his men carried were far above the prescribed weight of 60 lbs. We + were to have started to-morrow, so we shall not now start till the + 11th or 12th of June, as I am going to make all his loads weigh + exactly 40 lbs. It is partly our fault, as we should have been more + particular to get the exact weight. The average weight over due was + about 2 lbs., some loads being 2 lbs. under. But it is not the + weight of the loads he takes exception to--in reality it is having + to perform the business at all. He has been almost forced to it by + letters received from Mr. Holmwood against his own and more than + against the wish of his fellow Arabs, and, filled with aspirations + and ambitions of a very large nature, the whole business has become + thoroughly distasteful to him, which his professed friendship for + Stanley cannot even overcome. His treatment of us this morning + showed that most thoroughly. But should he not act up to his + contract I hope it will be taken most serious notice of when it + comes to the day of settling up. He has got us tight fixed at + present, but it should not always be so. + + On our road lie many Arab settlements to within a month of Lake + Albert Nyanza, though the distance between some of them is bad, and + the inhabitants of that distance warlike. I shall, whenever + opportunity offers, hire carriers, if not for the whole time at any + rate from station to station, for of course death, sickness, and + desertions must be looked for, and I must get my loads in as intact + as possible to my destination. + + This is when Muini Somai will be so useful. We seem to have paid a + big price for his services, but then he is a big Arab, and in + proportion to his bigness is his influence over the Manyuema to + keep them together, to stop desertions, thefts, &c. A lesser Arab + would have been cheaper, but his influence would have been less, + and in consequence our loads gradually less, and loads mean health + and life and success, and therefore cannot be estimated at too high + a value. We are carrying light loads, and intend to do at first + very easy marches, and when I get into the open country by Uganda + to push on. + + We weighed all our loads before one of Tippu-Tib's headmen, and he + passed loads which had been condemned shortly before in the + morning, which fully shows that for some reason or other he wishes + to delay us here, but for what purpose I cannot say. + + _June 9th._--We shall easily be able to start by the 11th, but I am + sorry to say our loss of ammunition by the lightening of the + loads--for it was the ammunition they particularly took notice + of--is something enormous. + + Both the _A. I. A._ and the _Stanley_ left this morning for Stanley + Falls, but Tippu-Tib and his Belgian secretary remain behind; also + four ships' carpenters, whom Captain Vangele and M. van Kerkhoven + left with us to help us. The Belgians have behaved with very great + kindness to us, and helped us on our way enormously. + + Before I close I would wish to add that the services of Mr. J. S. + Jameson have been, are, and will be invaluable to me. Never during + his period of service with me have I had one word of complaint from + him. His alacrity, capacity, and willingness to work are unbounded, + while his cheeriness and kindly disposition have endeared him to + all. I have given Ward orders about any telegram you may send, and + Tippu-Tib has promised he will send a messenger after me should it + be necessary, provided I have not started more than a month. + + Tippu-Tib waits here to see me off. + + I am sending a telegram to you to announce our departure, and I + will endeavour through the State to send you news whenever I can; + but it would not surprise me if the Congo route was not blocked + later on. + + I have not sent you a copy of Mr. Holmwood's letter, as it was not + official, but of all others I have. I think I told you of + everything of which I can write. There are many things I would wish + to speak of, and no doubt I will do so should I be permitted to + return home. + + Our ammunition, Remington, is as follows:--Rifles, 128; reserve + rounds, per rifle, 279; rounds with rifle, 20 = 35,580. + + _June 10th._--The loads have been weighed and handed over; powder + and caps issued to the Manyuema force, and we are all ready to + start, which we shall do to-morrow morning. I have told you of all + now I can think of, but I would bring finally to your notice that + Tippu-Tib has broken his faith and contract with us. The man Muini + Somai I think means business, and therefore I trust all will be + well. + + I have, &c., + Edmund M. Barttelot, _Major_. + + _To_ Mr. William MacKinnon, + _President of the Emin Pasha Relief Committee_. + +COPY OF LOG OF REAR COLUMN. + + Note.--This "Log" may not appear to be very lively reading at + first, but it presently deepens in interest, and will repay perusal + to the reader who has shared in our anxieties respecting the fate + of the rear column. + + H. M. S. + + _June 11th, 1888._--Left Yambuya at 7 A.M. Slight excitement + prevailed at first, firing off guns, &c., but this was soon + checked. The Zanzibar Company went ahead, Mr. Jameson in advance, + Mr. Bonny in the centre, Major Barttelot in rear. The Manyuema + contingent under Muini Somai started later, but soon caught up the + Zanzibar Company; the rear reached camp at the Batuka village + called Sudi at noon. One sick man was left behind on the road, but + he found his way to camp later on. All loads correct. + + The rear column left Yambuya with strength as follows:-- + + Major Edmund M. Barttelot, _Commanding_. + Mr. James S. Jameson, _Second in Command_. + Mr. William Bonny, _Command of Zanzibar Co_. + Zanzibar Company 108 men. + " Boys 7 + Soudanese soldiers 22 + Somali 1 + Manyuema carriers 430 + --- + Total 568 + + Distance travelled about five miles. + + Road fair, through jungle and plantations, the best roadways being + the streams. + + General direction S.E. + + (Signed) E. M. B. + + _June 23rd._--Halted in camp to await arrival of search party, who + returned at 3 P.M., having done nothing. Major Barttelot went to + explore road, following it for five miles to the N.E. Major + Barttelot's boy Soudi deserted with his revolver, belt and 85 + rounds of ammunition, owing to Major Barttelot's thrashing him, + though doubtless he was put up to it. In consequence all rifles + taken from Zanzibaris. Major Barttelot will proceed to-morrow to + Stanley Falls to see Tippu-Tib concerning deserters, and if + possible to obtain fresh men from him to get back loads and rifles. + He will send a note to Mr. Jameson to come here and bring as many + Manyuema as he can to take ammunition and rifles and escort + Zanzibari to Abdulla Karoni's (Banalya), where they will await + Major Barttelot's arrival. Major Barttelot and Mr. Bonny both + thinking this the most feasible plan, as if the desertions last + much longer, there will not be a load left. Kindness has been shown + in every way to the Zanzibaris throughout, and the marches have + been uniformly short. + + Weather fine, shower in the evening. + + E. M. B. + + _June 24th._--Major Barttelot, with fourteen Zanzibaris and three + Soudanese and boys, left here this morning for Stanley Falls. + Kuchu, a Zanzibari, who, when ordered to accompany the Major, ran + away, came in at 8 a.m. He was tied up and kept in the guard-room. + + _Copy of orders to Mr. Bonny, June 23rd,1888._ + + I. Take over charge of the camp, remaining till Mr. Jameson's + arrival. + II. To have special care of all Zanzibari rifles and ammunition. + III. When move is made, to see that all loads, such as ammunition, are + under Soudanese escort. + IV. Any attempt at mutiny to be punished with death. + V. To try to obtain information of whereabouts. + VI. To hand over command to Mr. Jameson when he arrives, and not to + proceed further than Abdulla Kihamira's (Banalya). + + Edmund M. Barttelot. + + You will retain command of the Zanzibaris as before. + + A case of small-pox I ordered to be removed some distance off from + the camp. + + Weather fine. + + Wm. Bonny, _Commanding (_pro tem._). + + _Note from Mr. Jameson._ + + "My dear Bonny,--I have just arrived here. I suppose it is Nassur + bin Saifi, and have met Kuchu and soldiers with slaves. They told + me that the Major is gone to Stanley Falls four days ago. I don't + know how he could have missed us. Have captured sixteen guns and + two men, but only part of two loads. No medicine. I will come to + your camp to-morrow as early as I can. + + Yours &c. + "J. S. Jameson." + + Wm. Bonny, _Commg_. + + _July 2nd._--Got away at 7 A.M., and marched till noon. Camping in + a village named Mkwagodi, tribe Baburu, general direction N.E., + distance about eight miles. Road bad, running through many swamps + and old plantations. No desertions on road, or in camp last night. + Found some of Tippu-Tib's people here, who say they will carry a + letter to Stanley Falls. They knew a road to the Congo which can be + traversed in four days' march. The Aruwimi R. distant from this + camp about three hours. Tippu-Tib's men state that Abdallah + Kihamira's station (Banalya) is but three days' march from here, + and that the blazing of trees on his road beyond that place is + still visible. + + Weather fine. + + J. S. J. + + 6 P.M.--Mr. Bonny reports non-arrival of two Zanzibaris. Each + possessed a rifle, and one was loaded with loose ammunition. + + _July 3rd._--Returned to Ujeli Camp for extra loads, and arrived at + 1 P.M. Muini Sumai reported arrivals of letters, stating that the + whole force was to return to Stanley Falls. Received two letters + from Major Barttelot, dated June 25th, to the effect that we were + to proceed with all despatch to Banalya. Muini Sumai told me he had + received the news in a letter from Sala Sala, conveyed by some + messenger, and that on receipt of it he had sent to stop the men + and loads _en route_ here from Nassur bin Saifi village. I replied + that the Major's orders were still to proceed to Banalya. He sent + messengers at once to tell the people behind to come on. He reports + many cases of small-pox and ether diseases, about sixty men unfit + for work, that seven of his men have deserted. Met the two men + reported missing last night. Both were sick and had slept at a + village close by. + + Weather fine. + + J. S. J. + + _July 4th._--Told Muini Sumai that my last orders to him were to + get the whole of his force together at once, and come on to my camp + with all speed. He promised to leave following day. Rain came down + in torrents shortly after leaving, but pushed on and reached Mpungu + about noon, when it cleared up for a fine day. Heavy rain until + noon. + + Double loads borne remarkably well. + + J. S. J. + + _July 5th._--Reached Mkwagodi, Mr. Bonny's camp, about noon. Swamps + very bad after rain. He reports all quiet during my absence. One + Zanzibari had died. My letters to Stanley Falls left about 9 A.M. + of the 3rd. Tippu-Tib's people had brought a few fowls for sale. + + Weather fine. + + J. S. J. + + _July 6th._--Sent Mr. Bonny on to next village, which I hear is a + large one, and quite an easy march from here, with orders to send + back Soudanese escort and carriers to carry extra loads to-morrow. + This is a very small village with not sufficient accommodation for + our force, so determined to await his arrival at the next. Men + returned from Mr. Bonny about 2 P.M. + + J. S. J. + + _July 7th._--Moved up with all extra loads to Sipula, about fifteen + miles. Road a bad one, much fallen timber, and manioc very thick. + Bonny reported Zanzibari bearer of our chop-box as lagging behind + yesterday, and breaking open his box. Was caught red-handed in the + act. One tin of corn-beef and one tin of milk were missing, also a + broached tin of cocoa still in box. Man volunteered to show where + these were. Sent him back with Soudanese, who returned with both + tins opened. Dr. Parke's box, whilst being carried here yesterday, + fell and burst open; damaged beyond repair. The clothing I packed + in Messrs. Stairs' and Nelson's bags, which were underweight; the + shot and cartridge cases were discarded, being short of carriers. + Collected all the cartridges carried by the Zanzibari, and will + have them carried as loads, as I mean to send Mr. Bonny on to + Banalya. The road is a perfectly safe one, and food all the way. + The small-pox is rife amongst the Manyuema, and I wish to prevent + it from spreading among our people. Banalya is four easy marches + from here, and Mr. Bonny will have guides to show the road. Have + sent to Muini Sumai to join me to-morrow here. + + Weather fine. + + J. S. J. + + _July 8th._--Mr. Bonny left here for Banalya. Muini Sumai with + nearly all the Manyuema arrived here. Muini Sumai tells me that he + has received a second letter from Sala saying that the whole force + is to return to Stanley Falls. Upon further inquiry I find that the + way Sala got the news was the following. Men of Salim Mohamed's + returning from Stanley Falls after the steamer had arrived at + Yambuya spread this report among the people, who communicated the + same to Sala's people. + + J. S. J. + + _July 9th._--Last night, as if at a given signal, nearly every man + in the camp began to fire off his gun; several of the shots were + fired beside my tent. I jumped out of bed, sent for Muini Sumai, + got my rifle, and told him before every one that I would shoot the + very next man that fired close to my tent. There were no more + shots. + + About noon to-day several of Bonny's men came into camp telling me + he had lost the road. Started out to Bonny's camp. Met messenger + with a note from him on road. He tells me the guides yesterday took + him all wrong and then ran away. He afterwards got too far N., + sighting the Aruwimi. He is camped at a village about half-an-hour + from here. Went with him along road, and found a well blazed one + going to the eastward which he had missed. Got back to his camp at + dusk. + + Weather fair. Mr. Bonny reports a goat missing. + + J. S. J. + + _July 10th._--Started shortly after daylight and joined Mr. Bonny. + Went ahead on road, general direction S.E. which I found he had + followed the day before. Had just determined to go to where he had + camped when Arabs from Banalya arrived. The head man told me that + he had brought the percussion-caps from Stanley Falls to Banalya, + and also four letters. He handed over to me three deserters from + Mr. Stanley's force, Musa Wadi Kombo, Rehani Wadi Mabruki and Jumah + Wadi Chandi. (Note from Mr. Stanley: these three men deserted from + the advance on or about Aug. 28th., just half way between Yambuya + and Albert Nyanza.) They all declare that they did not desert from + him, but were left sick on the road. They say they belong to + Captain Stairs' Company. I got them to guide us to the right road, + and they took us to the very village where Mr. Bonny and his men + slept the day before yesterday, close to the Aruwimi, and from + which point he had turned back. He camped there again to-day and + goes on to-morrow morning. Abdulla Kihamira handed me the 40,000 + percussion-caps for which Tippu-Tib is to be paid £48. + + Weather fine. + + J. S. J. + + _July 11th._--Muini Sumai informed me to-day that he could not + leave for Banalya until the day after to-morrow. I warned him that + every day lost on the road would be a day less at Banalya, as Major + Barttelot would expect us to be ready to start on his arrival. He + has not the slightest power over the other headmen. + + Heavy and continuous rain in afternoon. + + J. S. J. + + _July 11th._--Muini Sumai requested percussion-caps to be + distributed among his men. Told him to address himself to Major + Barttelot on the latter's arrival. He made another excuse for not + starting to-morrow, as he did not like leaving the white man + behind. I told him that was my business not theirs, and that every + man and load must leave this place to-morrow. + + Weather cloudy, but fine. + + J. S. J. + + _July 13th._--Muini Sumai and Manyuema left to-day for Banalya. One + sick chief going on slowly with men. Several dying of small-pox left + in village. Stench around village frightful, but all villages near + here are in a similar condition. + + Weather fine. + + J. S. J. + + _July 14th._--Sent for Tippu-Tib's men from Mampuya, and told them + we would remain here some days. They have no news of Major + Barttelot's being on the road. + + Heavy rain all afternoon. + + J. S. J. + + _July 15th._--Still at Sipula awaiting return of men from Banalya. + + J. S. J. + + _July 16th._--Tippu-Tib's people came from Mampuya with plantains + for sale. Purchased some for the sick. Cannot understand the + non-arrival of men from Banalya. + + J. S. J. + + _July 17th._--Nyombi, Tippu-Tib's head man at Mampuya, came into + camp to-day. Reports return of the men who took letters to Stanley + Falls. Had seen Major Barttelot, who has gone by a short road to + Banalya. Said he would be there to-day. Still no signs of the men + from Banalya to carry the extra loads. They are now a full two days + over date. + + Weather fine. + + J. S. J. + + _July 18th_.--Between 3 and 4 P.M. the men from Banalya arrived. + Told them to collect plantains and manioc at once, as we should + march to-morrow. Much grumbling. + + The following received from Mr. Bonny: + + "Abdullah's Camp (Banalya), + _July 15th, 1888_. + + "My dear Jameson,--I arrived here about 10 A.M. this day. The + Zanzibaris did not know the road well, and I had to keep to the + front nearly the whole distance. When you arrive at my first camp + on the river bank you had better get three days' manioc--you will + not find any for three days. The Soudanese in charge of the + Zanzibari prisoner let him escape on my second day's march. You may + see this escaped prisoner. (Here follows list.) Twenty-three men + have deserted. The Manyuema who came with us left us on the wrong + road early on second day; they had blocked the right road in + several places. I did not see any native on the road, although I am + certain they look after people left behind. On my four-days' march + Feraji Wadi Zaid ran away, leaving his load on the road. I hear + Selangi, who was sick, is also absent; loads correct. + + "Yours, etc., + "William Bonny." + + Weather fine. + + J. S. J. + + _July 19th._--Started about 7 A.M. and marched to Mr. Bonny's first + camp. Aruwimi R. distance between five and six miles, general + direction north-east. Passed through five villages and over two + streams. Road generally good, through old manioc plantations broken + up with patches of forest. Halted to let men collect manioc. + Threatening thunder, but fine. + + J. S. J. + + _July 20th._--Left camp a little before 7 A.M. and reached Mr. + Bonny's camp on the bank of the Aruwimi R. 11 o'clock. Distance + between five and six miles. General direction E. Road a bad one, + lying along the bank of the river and crossing all the deep + cuttings with muddy inlets to them. Latter part of march through + old sites of very large villages. The natives were all living on + opposite bank. Very large plantations of manioc and plantain. + + Weather fine. + + J. S. J. + + _July 21st._--When nearly ready to start this morning a heavy + shower of rain fell, and I kept the tent standing; it cleared, + however, shortly, and we made a start, when it began to pour again + and rained steadily until we reached Mr. Bonny's first camp in + forest, when we halted. When about a mile from the camp we were met + by messengers from Mr. Bonny, who handed me a letter, and whilst + opening it overheard some of the men saying that Major Barttelot + was dead. This was only too true, for my letter contained the sad + news that he was shot dead early on the morning of the 19th at + Banalya, and further that Muini Sumai and all the Manyuema had + left. + + Mr. Benny's letter follows:-- + + "_19th July, 1888._ + + "My dear Jameson,--Major Barttelot shot dead early this morning; + Manyuema, Muini Sumai and Abdullah Kihamira all gone. I have + written to Tippu-Tib through Mons. Baert. + + "Push on. + + "Yours, + "Bonny." + J. S. J. + + _July 22nd._--After seeing all loads ready to start, got away about + an hour after daybreak and reached Banalya an hour before sunset--a + long march over one of the worst roads in this country. On arrival + found all quiet, and that Mr. Bonny had done all that could be done + under the circumstances. He had recovered about 300 of the loads + carried by the Manyuema, and had succeeded in quieting those who + had remained near camp. Muini Sumai halted on the morning of the + 19th instant without a word to any one, and has gone to Stanley + Falls. The other head men under him, with the exception of two or + three who are camped outside this village, are camped in the bush + some distance away. Major Barttelot was buried on the 19th. A full + account of the circumstances of his death is given by Mr. Bonny + later on. + + J. S. J. + + _July 23rd._--Made an inventory of the effects of Major Barttelot, + and packed all things considered necessary to send home, a full + account of everything being sent to Sir Walter Barttelot. Offered a + reward for the arrest of the man who shot Major Barttelot. + + J. S. J. + + _July 24th._--Made a complete list of all loads recovered; the + majority of the Manyuema head men came into camp, and from them + gathered the following information:-- + + There are 193 Manyuema carriers still camped in this vicinity; + Muini Sumai, six head men, and Sanga, the man who shot Major + Barttelot, are all at Stanley Falls. On my march to Stanley Falls I + will meet more of the head men, who will give information about + their loads and men. I then told them I was going to Stanley Falls + to-morrow, to see Tippu-Tib, and try to make such arrangements with + him as would admit of our still continuing the Expedition; would + not remain away long, and when returned would let them know whether + it would be an advance or otherwise. Told them I wished them to + remain quietly in whatever camp they chose in the neighbourhood, + but not in this village, so that there would be no chance of + further trouble until my return. They said they were perfectly + willing to do this. We have recovered 298-1/2 loads, and are now + 47-1/2 loads short. + + Letters handed by me to Major Barttelot before our departure from + Yambuya. Two loads of the Expedition found missing. Believed them + to have been lost on the way, which one of his men (Hamed bin + Daoud) ran away with on his return from Stanley Falls. + + J. S. J. + + _Mr. Bonny's Log._ + + _July 11th._--I struck camp early, and started along the bank of + Aruwimi. I soon found out why I had not taken this road. Every + village has been burnt down, and everything destroyed. Elephants + are very numerous here. New roads have been made, the old ones + destroyed; but after an hour's march I came on Mr. Stanley's road. + + Wm. Bonny, _Commanding Advance Party_. + + _July 12th._--Made a long march, taking three days' manioc to + enable me to pass through the forest. The Arabs who joined with the + Zanzibaris deserted after leading us an hour on the wrong road, + and, blocking up the right ones in several places, ran away. I + found right road, and continued my march until mid-day. Camped in + forest. + + Wm. Bonny, _Commanding Advance Party_. + + _July 15th._--I arrived at Banalya at about 10 A.M., after a march + of four days and four hours from where I last saw Mr. Jameson. + Nothing worth noting occurred on the 13th and 14th instant. + Abdullah, the head man of this village, treating me very kindly, + giving me a large house, rice, fish, and bananas. Camp quiet. + + Wm. Bonny, _Commanding Advance Party_. + + _July 16th._--Some of Muini Sumai's Manyuema came in to-day. + + Wm. Bonny, _Commanding Advance Party_. + + The dates 17th, 18th, and 19th have been already published in + Chapter XX.--"The Sad Story of the Rear Column." + + H. M. S. + + _July 20th._--Sent out to headmen to try and get more loads. I find + I am short of the following loads, viz., 8 bags beads, 3-3/4 brass + wire, 10 sacks of hkfs., 9 bales Zanzibar cloth, 5 loads of powder, + 10 sacks rice, 1 sack cowries; total 47 loads. + + I discovered that the man who shot the Major is named Sanga, and is + a headman charged with the care of ten loads. He has fled to + Stanley Falls with Muini Sumai. + + William Bonny, _Commanding_. + + _July 22nd._--It has been raining now thirty-six hours. Mr. Jameson + arrived to-day. Camp quiet. + + William Bonny, _Commanding_. + + _July 25th._--Mr. Jameson left here for Stanley Falls, taking with + him the late Major's effects. + + William Bonny, _Commanding_. + + _July 27th._--The Soudanese paraded to-day, without being asked, + and said they wished to speak to me. They said--"We wish to fight + the Manyuema; we are waiting for orders, and are ready to + fight."... I think they are now ashamed of their conduct on the + 19th instant in not following me when called upon. + + William Bonny, _Commanding_. + +Following from Mr. Jameson:-- + + "Camp in Forest, + "_July 26th, 1888_. + + "My dear Bonny,--We have been doing good work, marching eight hours + yesterday, and nine and a half hours to-day.... + + "Met Muini Sumai. He was on his way back to Banalya, having been + pursuaded to return by other Arabs coming from Stanley Falls. + + "Muini Sumai told me that one of Sanga's women was beating the drum + when the Major came up, and the Major went to the house saying 'Who + is that?' Sanga says he thought that the Major was going to beat + the woman as he had beaten the man the day before, and so fired at + him. He is at Stanley Falls. + + "Yours, + "J. S. Jameson." + + _August 1st._--I raided the Zanzibari houses to-day, which resulted + in my getting ten pieces of cloth. + + William Bonny, _Commanding_. + + _August 2nd._--Empty Remington box found in forest. A Zanzibari was + found in possession of forty-eight hkfs., being part of stores lost + on 19th, + + William Bonny, _Commanding_. + + _August 6th._--The natives came last night and stole a canoe from + our gate, and not two yards from a Soudanese sentry. I fined the + three Soudanese sentries each £1 for neglect of duty. + + Wm. Bonny, _Commanding Advance Party_. + + _August 8th._-- About 10 P.M., hearing an unusual noise, I got up, + and discovered that it proceeded from about 100 to 150 canoes + knocking together. The natives were in force across the river, and + I soon posted my men. The natives observing our movements returned + up river. No shot was fired. I want to make friends with them. + + William Bonny, _Commanding_. + + _August 12th._--The Manyuema, through Chief Sadi, brought me a + present of 15 lbs. of wild pig meat. I have had no meat since 25th + July. + + William Bonny, _Commanding_. + + _August 14th._--I received a letter from Mr. Jameson, now at + Stanley Falls, in which he states that my letter of the 19th July, + 1888, was lost. It was addressed to Mons. Baert, Stanley Falls, + announcing the death of Major Barttelot to Tippu-Tib, and enclosed + one to Sir Walter Barttelot, Bart., M.P. Tippu-Tib has tried Muini + Sumai, and finding him guilty, has torn up his contract. Muini + Sumai has to return all rifles, &c. Mr. Ward is at Bangala with + letters from the committee, which Jameson has ordered to be sent + up. Tippu-Tib has agreed to hand over Sanga, the murderer of the + Major, to Jameson for justice. The state officers claim that power, + and will try him, as Banalya is within their territory. + + William Bonny, _Commanding_. + + _August 17th._--Mr. Stanley arrived here about 11 A.M. this morning + in good health, but thin. He came by water with about thirty + canoes, accompanied by about 200 followers. Some of whom are + natives belonging to Emin Pasha. + + I briefly told Mr. Stanley the news, handed to him eleven letters + addressed to himself, and four addressed to Emin Pasha. + + Rain. + + W. Bonny. + + _August 18th._--A Manyuema admits to Mr. Stanley that, he had two + bales of Zanzibar cloth, and knew a man who had a bag of beads, + taken from me on the 19th July. Mr. Stanley advised the head man + to return the goods to me. Kimanga brought two half bales of + Zanzibar cloth, being part of the stores looted on the 19th July. A + receipt was given to him. I received a letter dated August 12th, + Stanley Falls, from Mr. Jameson. Muini Sumai came in and saw Mr. + Stanley. + + William Bonny. + + _August 19th._--Muini Sumai has now returned all rifles, revolvers, + and ammunition, besides top of tent. + + William Bonny. + + _August 20th._--Soudanese and Zanzibaris paraded to-day of their + own accord before Mr. Stanley, and complained to him that they had + been badly treated. + + The following is from Mr. Jameson:-- + + "Stanley Falls, + "_August 12, 1888_. + + "My dear Bonny,--The Expedition is at a very low ebb at present, as + I think you will acknowledge. No headman will go in charge of + Manyuema although I have done all in my power to get one. Tippu-Tib + said he would go for £20,000 paid unconditionally, and said further + that if he met with any really superior force, or saw his men + threatened with any serious loss, he would return. It is not likely + that the Committee would agree to this proposal. Secondly, he + proposed for the same sum to take the loads _viâ_ Nyangwe and + Tanganika to Kibero in Unyoro, guaranteeing first to pay for all + loss of loads. Secondly, to deliver all loads at Kibero in Unyoro + within six months of date of starting. Thirdly, after delivering + loads at Kibero will look for Stanley. But if war between Unyoro + and Uganda, could not guarantee delivery of loads at Kibero. I had + a final interview with him last night. I told him that Mr. + Stanley's very last orders were to follow the same road he had + taken. Major Barttelot's intentions were, at the time of his death, + to continue on that road. Major Barttelot wrote to Mr. Mackinnon to + say he had started on that road. The reply of the Committee could + not have been to go by another, or we would have received it. Emin + Pasha's last statement was to the effect that if he were not soon + relieved he would put himself at the head of his men and try and + get out _viâ_ the Congo. That Emin Pasha had received the + messages which Mr. Stanley sent from Zanzibar telling him his route + would be by the Congo. That did he start, the Congo would without + doubt be the route he would choose to come out. And that finally, + in the face of all this, I could not go by a new route unless + ordered to do so. Tippu-Tib then said, 'You are right.' I then told + him that as regards our old route, he could not get me a headman + over the Manyuema, no matter what I did to induce them. He said he + would command them himself for £20,000, yet told me that if any + serious loss was threatened to his men he would turn back. I + replied, 'You will accept no less a sum than £20,000, and that + unconditionally.' Many of the Manyuema openly avow their intention + should I go without a headman from you, they will proceed a certain + distance, and when they come to a good village, throw down our + loads and begin ivory hunting. (This Tippu-Tib acknowledged.) + Therefore, if I start from here without a headman it might be fatal + to the whole expedition. + + "The only thing left for me to do now was to get a canoe, and go to + Bangala at once. Read the Committee's reply, and if it was to the + effect, go on at all hazards. Then I would take thirty or forty + loads to be carried by the men Tippu-Tib is going to give me to + replace those of Muini Sumai, bring Mr. Ward with me, as in case + the Manyuemas chucked their loads, there would be one of us who + might get back with the news, and bring no headman. I shall have + plenty to do with the Manyuema. Return here at once in the + _Stanley_ Steamer, which will be at Bangala immediately after I + arrive there, and start at night away again. If the reply of the + Committee would justify my stopping, knowing all I do, I would send + Ward with a telegram at once to Banana by same canoes I go down in, + return in the _Stanley_, go up to you, and all men and loads would + be sent to Yarukombé on the Congo. Tippu-Tib guarantees that he + will dismiss his men, and keep them close to the Aruwimi, and + should the reply from the Committee be to still go on, on either + route, he will have them all collected in a few days. There is no + one to go down but me. Were I to wait the answer of the Committee + here, then if we started at once I would have no loads to replace + those lost at Banalya, and Ward could not come with us, and if I + thought right to stop and send a telegram, a very serious delay + would accrue in Ward's starting with it. + + "What I wish you to do now is to stop at Banalya until you hear + from me, which ought to be in three weeks or a month. + + * * * * * + + "If we have to come down to Yarukombé, the thing will be to make + Zanzibaris believe that we are going to Zanzibar, then there will + not be many desertions. Tippu-Tib has found out the refuge of the + deserters. It is at Yatuka, Said bin Habib's place. He has sent men + to catch all who are there. Daoud was captured at Yambuya with the + Major's sack of cloth with him. Pieces of our cloth are being + brought here to Tippu-Tib from villages all over the country. + + "Yesterday Sanga (the murderer) was tried before Tippu-Tib and the + Belgian Resident. He was found guilty, and shot immediately + afterwards. + + * * * * * + + "My hopes sometimes have been raised to the highest pitch, and then + thrown to the ground the next moment. When Tippu-Tib said he would + go for £20,000, I told him I did not think the Committee would give + it, but if he would give me certain guarantees I would pay half the + sum myself as a subscription to the Expedition. But after what he + had said no one would take him. + + * * * * * + + "You remember that in camp I had serious thought for reasons you + know of not bringing Ward; but if we do start this time without any + headman, it is most necessary that there should be three of us. I + assure you that his coming will not in the least interfere with + your command of the Zanzibaris. And now, old man, good-bye, and God + bless you. + + "Very sincerely yours + "James S. Jameson." + + * * * * * + + Copy of pencilled remarks and calculations made in presence of + Major Barttelot, June 24th, 1887, when he demanded further light + upon his duties, and regarding Tippu-Tib. Fourteen months after it + had been handed to Major Barttelot it was restored to me by Mr. + William Bonny. It was copied, and the document was returned to + him. + + "Str. _Stanley_, let us assume, arrives here in August, Mr. Stanley + hopes to be at Nyanza same date. He stops two weeks with Emin + Pasha, say to 1st September. September and October to come back. + + "So you have got seventy-four days with 550 loads; you have 155 + carriers, besides two garrisons of fifty men each, to occupy ends + of your days' march. + + Going 6 miles per day. 155 loads }4 trips to make 6 + 6 " " 155 " }miles forward, 8 trips + 6 " " 155 " }to make 1 day's journey + 6 " " 155 " }for a caravan. + + "Therefore in seventy-four days you will have made nine marches + forward nearer to us. + + "If Tippu-Tib sends 400 men with your 208 carriers you can march + with all goods towards Muta Nzigé. Then I shall meet you thirteen + days from Muta Nzigé." + +List of Stores landed at Yambuya Camp, August 14th, 1887, per s.s. +_Stanley_ from Leopoldville:-- + + 100 cases gunpowder. + 129 " Remington rifle cartridges. + 10 " percussion caps. + 7 " biscuits (ship). + 2 " Madeira wine. + 2 " Savelist. + 114 bales cloth (assorted). + 33 sacks beads. + 13 " cowries. + 20 " rice. + 8 " salt. + 1 " empty sacks. + 26 loads of brass rods. + 27 " brass and iron wire. + 1 case tinware. + ---- + 493 + ---- + + +List of Stores left at Yambuya in charge of Major Barttelot June 28th. +1887:-- + + 2 boxes general and private baggage--Mr. Stanley. + 29 " Remington rifle cartridges. + 38 " Winchester rifle cartridges. + 24 " Maxim rifle cartridges. + 24 " European provisions. + 10 loads officers' baggage. + 15 " brass rods. + 1 " tobacco. + 1 " cowries. + 12 " rice. + 7 " biscuits. + 1 " salt. + 3 " tents + ---- + 167 + ---- + + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of In Darkest Africa, Vol. 1; or, The +quest, rescue and retreat of Emin, governor of Equatoria, by Henry Morton Stanley + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 43654 *** |