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diff --git a/43635-0.txt b/43635-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d6f3bc5 --- /dev/null +++ b/43635-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,2223 @@ +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 43635 *** + +------------------------------------------------------------- + +[Transcriber's Note: LEAD-PAINT WARNING! +DO NOT USE THE GROUND-LEAD PAINT INGREDIENTS +mentioned in the "Coloring the Toys" chapter. +See Transcriber's Notes at end of document for more details.] + +------------------------------------------------------------- + + + + +EDUCATIONAL TOYS + + +Consisting Chiefly of Coping-Saw Problems for +Children in the School and the Home + +by + +LOUIS C. PETERSEN, B. Sc. + +Director of Manual Arts, State Normal University, +Carbondale, Illinois + +[Illustration] + +PUBLISHED BY +THE MANUAL ARTS PRESS +PEORIA, ILLINOIS + + + + +COPYRIGHT +LOUIS C. PETERSEN +1920 + + + + + +CONTENTS + + + + _Page_ + +INTRODUCTION 5 + +TOOLS AND SUPPLIES 7 + +BOW DRILL 8 + +TRANSFERRING DESIGNS 9 + +WOODS 9 + +LAYING OUT WORK 10 + +SAWING 10 + +FASTENING BASES 11 + +FASTENINGS 11 + +COLORING TOYS 12 + +WORKING DRAWINGS AND DIRECTIONS 15 + The Buzzer 16 + The Shark Puzzle 16 + Duck 18 + Goose 18 + Wild Duck 20 + Hen 20 + Deer 22 + Cow 22 + Weasel 26 + Tiger 26 + Rocking Rhino 28 + Minstrels 30 + Squirrel 32 + Pig 32 + Kangaroo 32 + Camel 36 + Giraffe 38 + Swan Rocker 40 + Balancing Peacock 42 + Toy Dog 44 + Teddy Bear 46 + Parrot 48 + Doll's Hobby Horse 50 + Stern Wheeler 50 + The Weather-cock 50 + Arm-chair and Rocking-chair 54 + Doll's Cradle 54 + Doll's Bed 56 + Doll's Table 56 + Kites 58 + Wood Choppers 60 + The Bucking Goats 60 + Pecking Hens 60 + Acrobat 64 + Climbing Sailor 64 + The Jumping Jack 68 + Balancing Barrister 68 + The Dancing Rastus 70 + The Spanking Esquimaux 72 + Wabbler 74 + Falling Teeter-Totter 76 + Tumbling Tommie 78 + The Busy Pup 80 + The Dinkey Bird 82 + Pelican Sewing Stand 84 + Whirligig 86 + The Cart 86 + The Wagon 88 + Flying Goose 90 + The Dodo Bird 92 + Rocking-horse and Rider 94 + Animated Elephant 97 + The Bucking Mule 100 + Fox-and-Goose Game 104 + Nine Men's Mill 106 + Disc Puzzle 108 + Ball Puzzle 108 + +APPENDIX + Knots and Braids 111 + + + + + +INTRODUCTION + + +The purpose in sending out this collection of toys is to promote among +children a love for educational occupation. This book is intended to +be of real service to parents and teachers who are intrusted with the +arduous responsibility of child-training. It is with this object in +view that the directions, drawings and photographs have been prepared. + +The experience of almost twenty years as a teacher has convinced +the author that only when the child approaches subject-matter with +interest and enthusiasm can the best results be obtained. Giving a +child an opportunity to make things, arouses his interest; therefore, +learning by doing is a most effective method in gaining educational +ends. + +Toy-making incorporates this method, with several vital elements +added. It takes into account the child's view-point, his proclivities +and his emotions. It is a form of activity that appeals strongly +to his fancy, has a direct relation to his environments, and is +within the range of his mental grasp and constructive ability. His +wonderful imagination endows the creatures of his handiwork with life, +individuality and cunning. The toy problem is in harmony with the +child's resourcefulness, his powers and his interests. + +The problems contained in this book have been selected from those +worked out in the Normal Model School. They have been tested under +ordinary class-room conditions. To survive the weeding-out process, a +toy has had to meet the following requirements: + + + 1. It must be within the child's power. + + 2. It must excite and sustain interest. + + 3. It must possess educational value. + + 4. It must be adaptable to light-wood construction. + + 5. It must conform in size and complexity to the limited + space and equipment of class-room conditions. + + +In his early years, the child begins tinkering with what materials +and tools he can find, making something. The wise parent and teacher +will turn that healthful, happy, creative instinct into good, useful +channels. He will encourage and guide the child, in these early +attempts, by surrounding him with congenial conditions, by furnishing +him suggestions, pictures, drawings and such other aids as will direct +him to occupational problems of educational value, and by providing +him with a place to work, the tools, wood, nails, wire and other +necessary equipment. + +One advantage in connection with the kind of educational hand work +presented in this book is that it can be carried on with a very +small and inexpensive equipment. Moreover, it is light, clean and +agreeable in every respect. The tools are safe for a child to +handle. The material is substantial and durable. The articles made +are firm, strong and of lasting quality. They become an excellent +means for providing an abundance of entertainment, and constitute +most acceptable gifts, promoting as much genuine happiness for the +industrious donor as for the fortunate receiver. + +Toy-making may readily be adapted to class-room conditions and +a period be devoted to it each day. Members of the class may be +appointed to distribute the tools and material at the beginning of the +period, and collect them at the end. While at work, each pupil should +stay at his desk and keep it neat and orderly. When not in use, the +equipment should be locked up in a box having suitable compartments +for the tools and materials. + +The teacher who is to conduct the class should be thoroly familiar +with the work and should have made each model before taking it up as a +class problem. The work as a whole should be conducted in a systematic +and quiet manner; concise planning, prompt action, and accuracy in +details should be insisted upon. The cheerful spirit, the formation +of correct habits, and the proper regard for everything and everybody +should be cultivated along with skill in constructing and good taste +in coloring the toys. + +If for any valid reason this work can not be carried on in the school, +the teacher should encourage the pupils to do it as home work. The +child can buy his own scroll saw and colors, and furnish his own +wood. The work can be done outside of school, but still be under the +supervision and guidance of the teacher. The training that comes thru +reading and interpreting directions and drawings, and carrying out the +instruction in every detail, is of value to every child, no matter +what his future career may be. + +The child should, therefore, have a book of his own, giving directions +and drawings. Furthermore, the teacher should give the proper amount +of credit for the home work. + + + L. C. PETERSEN. + + + + + +TOOLS AND SUPPLIES + + +The equipment listed below is suggestive for ordinary class-room +conditions. The number of pupils should not exceed twenty-four. + +_Tools for each pupil_: + + + 12" rule. + + Coping-saw. + + Saw-bracket, Fig. 1. A working drawing of the saw-bracket + is shown in Fig. 2. + + A water-color brush. + + +[Illustration: Fig. 1] + +_Tools for every four pupils_: + + + Scissors. + + Compass. + + Water-color pan. + + 4-1/2" round-nose pliers, Fig. 4. + + 5" side-cutting pliers. + + 5 oz. claw hammer. + + 8" half-round mill file. + + Bow-drill, see Fig. 3. + + +[Illustration: Fig. 2] + +_General class equipment and supplies_: + + + A box for locking up equipment and work. + + 2 breast drills. + + Iron block to serve as anvil. + + 6 quires of No. 1/2 sand-paper. + + Le Page's glue in two one-pint cans. + + 1 gross coping-saw blades. + + 1 lb. each of 1/2", 3/4" and 1" brads. + + 2 lbs. each of 3/4" No. 19, 1" No. 18, 1-1/4" No. 17, + 1-1/2" No. 16, and 1-3/4" No. 15 flat-headed nails. + + 1 lb. each of 1/2", 5/8" and 3/4" brass escutcheon pins. + + 30 ft. of No. 12 copper-coated steel wire. + + A few nails of various sizes for making drills. + + Turpentine. + + Alcohol. + + Borax. + + Brushes of various sizes. + + Paint--red, yellow, green, blue, black and white of the + paints to be used. Several good enamel paints, ready for + use, are on the market. "Calcimo" is cheaper, but not so + convenient, as it must be prepared. + + +[Illustration: Fig. 3] + +[Illustration: Fig. 4] + + + + +BOW DRILL + + +The bow drill is useful for drilling small holes in wood, and may +easily be made by a child. First, procure an ordinary thread spool. +Push a round stick six inches long thru the hole with a tight fit. +Shape the top of the stick to a point (Fig. 3). Drive a nail into the +other end of the stick. Cut the head off the nail, hammer it flat +at the end, and sharpen it with a file. In this way a drill of any +size needed for the work can be made. The bow is made from a slender, +flexible stick, about twenty inches long. A notch is cut at each end +where the ends of a strong string are securely tied. Slip the bow +string once around the spool and spin it. The top end of the spindle +is guided in a shallow hole in a piece of wood as shown at H in Fig. +3. This block of wood is held in the left hand while the right moves +the bow back and forth, spinning the spindle and drilling the hole. + + + + +TRANSFERRING DESIGNS + + +The shapes of people, animals and birds on the plates that follow are +drawn full size. They are intended to be made of wood, and may be +transferred by any one of the following methods: + + (_a_) Place a piece of transparent paper, known as tracing + paper, over the drawing in the book, and with a soft, sharp + lead pencil, trace all the lines on the drawing. Cut out + the traced shape with a pair of scissors. Place it on the + wood, and with pencil trace along the edge of the paper + pattern. + + (_b_) Make a tracing and paste it on the wood. + + (_c_) Place a piece of carbon paper on the wood, carbon + side down. On this, place the tracing in position and + fasten it down with two thumb tacks. With a hard pencil, or + a stylus, go over all the lines of tracing. Pressure should + be applied as the lines are being traced so that they may + show plainly on the wood. + + (_d_) Rub the back of the tracing with graphite (the lead + of the pencil). Place it on the wood, and with a hard + pencil, or a stylus, trace the lines. + + (_e_) When a permanent pattern is desired for class use, + place the tracing on a piece of cardboard, and transfer + the outline by method _c_ or _d_, indicated above. With a + sharp, pointed knife or shears cut the cardboard accurately + to line. Place this template on the wood, and with a sharp + pencil, held vertically, draw lines around the edge of the + template. This method serves well for class work. + + + + +WOODS + + +Save the thin-wood boxes found at home. Ask the store-keeper to save +boxes instead of burning them. A rich supply of wood for toy-making +may be secured in this way. For class work, it will be necessary to +buy wood prepared and surfaced to dimensions. The thicknesses most +convenient for school work are 3/16", 1/4", 3/8", 1/2", 7/8". + +While three-ply wood is best for the thin stock, the single-ply +answers the purpose when due care is given to the direction of the +wood fibers--the grain. Such woods as maple, elm, birch, cherry and +bay wood are very durable, but rather hard to work. Bass wood, poplar +and sugar pine are easy to work, are preferable in school, and give +satisfactory results. + + + + +LAYING OUT WORK + + +It is important to have the patterns placed correctly on the wood so +that the desired result may be reached. One of the things sought is +the greatest possible strength in the parts sawed out. The grain of +the wood should, therefore, run lengthwise of the wood where the parts +are narrow. Another thing desired is the economical use of material. +The patterns should, therefore, be so arranged on the wood that the +outlines will match closely together and thus use up as nearly as +possible all surface space on the board. Generally, it is advisable to +place the larger patterns first, beginning near a corner of the board, +and then fit in the smaller patterns on the intermediate spaces. + +Where the drawings are not full size, the dimensions are shown in +inches or fractions of an inch. Guided by the figures, the outlines of +the object may be laid out directly on the wood by ruler, pencil and +compasses. In laying out the different shapes on the wood, attention +should be given to the direction of the grain of the wood, to have it +run lengthwise the object, not crosswise. + + + + +SAWING + + +After the different shapes have been properly laid out on the wood, +the next thing to do is to saw them out with a coping-saw. The wood +is placed flat on a saw-bracket, pattern side up. This saw-bracket is +fastened to the edge of a desk or a table top and should be adjusted +in height so the top of it is about 6" below the child's chin. The +child may stand or sit, when at work, whichever is most comfortable, +but a standing position gives more freedom of movement. + +The wood is held and guided on the saw-bracket with the left hand, +while the right hand operates the coping-saw with an up-and-down +motion in the V-shaped opening in the bracket. + +The coping-saw is the principal tool needed for this work, and may be +purchased with extra blades for about 25 cents. The frame is made of +spring steel and holds the blade in tension. By pressing the frame +against the edge of a table, it may readily be sprung enough to allow +the blade to be put into the slots in the ends of the frame. There is +a pair of end slots and a pair of side slots in the frame. The blade +may be inserted into these slots with either the teeth edge or the +smooth edge of the blade towards the frame. _The points of the teeth +should always point towards the handle of the frame._ The frame is +held with the handle down. The saw does the cutting as it is pulled +downward. In working the saw, the blade must be kept perpendicular to +the face of the wood. The blade should never be forced against the +wood, as that will cause the wood to tear, and leave a ragged edge. +Saw right to the line. Keep the saw going up and down to insure +freedom and plenty of room for the blade, especially in turning +corners. When removing it from the work, do not attempt to twist the +blade or let the frame hang on it, as the blades are brittle and break +easily. + +When an opening is to be sawed out, bore a hole in the middle of the +part to be cut out, remove the blade from the upper part of the frame, +while holding it in place in the lower part with the thumb of the +right hand. Slip the blade thru the hole from below, and replace it in +the slot while pressing the upper part of the frame against the edge +of the desk. When the opening has been cut, the saw may be removed by +reversing the operation. In all cases, saw the edge of the wood to a +finish as far as possible. Rough or fuzzy edges should be removed by +filing and sand-papering. + + + + +FASTENING TO BASES + + +Where toys have bases, they should be made of two or more thicknesses, +one overlapping the other. The lower piece should be thicker than the +upper, extending a distance equal to the thickness of the upper part. +When both the toy and the base parts are ready to fasten together, +hold the toy in a vise, with its feet up, and drive nails thru the +upper part of the base into the feet. Then fasten the top to the lower +part with escutcheon pins. Space the pins accurately. + + + + +FASTENINGS + + +Several methods are employed in fastening parts together in +toy-making. Where parts are joined together permanently, a thin coat +of liquid glue should be rubbed on the joining surfaces with a small +paddle, and then fastened with several brads. Where possible, these +brads should reach thru the parts just enough to be clenched on the +other side (A, Fig. 5). + +[Illustration: Fig. 5] + +A movable joint is secured by one flat-headed nail which acts as a +pivot, on which one or more of the parts turn. The nail must reach +thru the wood far enough to allow the end to be bent back like a +staple and be driven into the wood. + +A loose joint is required in some toys so that the parts may swing +without friction. A flat-headed nail is used as a pivot, and holes, a +little bigger than the nail, are bored thru all but one of the parts +to be joined together. The part that will be nearest to the point of +the nail has no hole bored in it, for it should fit tight. The nail +must reach thru the joint far enough so that it may be bent back, +staple-like, and when the point is driven back into the wood, the +joint should swing freely. The nail may be bent with round-nose pliers +(B, Fig. 5). + + + + +COLORING THE TOYS + + +The possibilities that may be achieved in beautifying these wooden +toys are almost limitless. They may be treated as design problems, +thereby serving as a means of training the taste and imagination +as well as developing an appreciation of space relations and color +harmonies. The work is fascinating to children and presents an +excellent opportunity for acquiring knowledge and skill in mixing and +applying colors. Several methods are given here. The choice of method +should be guided by the child's ability and experience in doing work +of this kind. The employment of striking and brilliant colors will +enhance the charm and increase the artistic effect. + +The methods of coloring are arranged in the order of their difficulty +in manipulation: + +_Method No. 1._ Water colors may be used to color the wood, but only a +little water should be used so as to prevent the tendency to spread. +When the toy is dry, a coat of shellac may be applied over the water +color. This protects the wood and gives the toy a crisp and bright +appearance. + +_Method No. 2._ Of the calcimine paints, the one known as "Calcimo" +may be used successfully by children. It is procured in powder form +and costs from 15 to 50 cents a pound according to color. It is mixed +with water that contains a binder to prevent the colors from rubbing +off in handling the toys. The binder may be either glue or mucilage +mixed with the water. The proportion is about a tablespoonful of glue +to a quart of water. In preparing the colors, put a teaspoonful of +powder in a water-color pan and add water, while stirring and rubbing +out the lumps, till the mixture comes to a consistency of thick cream. +It may then be applied with a No. 6 water-color brush. + +[TR Note: ------------------------------------------------- + +LEAD WARNING! + +DO NOT USE THE WHITE LEAD OR GROUND LEAD INGREDIENTS MENTIONED IN +METHODS 3 AND 4. + +-------------------------------------------------End of TR Note] + +_Method No. 3._ When handled correctly, oil paint and enamel paint +give excellent results, producing a smooth, brilliant gloss. First, +give the toy a coat of white lead or flat white tone. Apply it with a +flat sash brush about an inch wide. Allow the toy to dry four or five +days and then sand-paper it smoothly with No. 1/2 sand-paper. Finally, +give it a coat of enamel paint of the colors desired. + +If colored enamel is not at hand, use white enamel and add colors +ground in oil. The enamel paint is put on a surface with a large +camel-hair brush. Use No. 10 artist's flat brush for features. Natural +details and life-like effects should be avoided. + +The features should be conventionalized. Eyes, ears, nose and mouth +may be dotted in with a tooth-pick. + +_Method No. 4._ For a second coat, instead of using enamel for +coloring, white lead ground in oil may be used, mixed with colors +ground in oil. This produces a mat or dull finish that is quite +pleasing. However, if a gloss finish is desired, a coat of varnish may +be applied over the dull color. Dry colors may be mixed with shellac +varnish until it is heavy enough to cover the wood. If this mixture +becomes too thick to spread smoothly, it may be thinned with alcohol. +The brush that has been used in varnish may be cleaned by washing in +borax water. When the joints are movable, it is advisable to paint +each part separately before putting them together. Where glue has +been used to form joints, it should be thoroly dry before the toy is +painted. + +[Illustration] + +[Illustration] + + + + +WORKING DRAWINGS AND DIRECTIONS + + +In beginning the construction of these toys, read the directions +carefully so as to understand the process of construction. Study how +you can best arrive at the desired results. By thinking ahead, as you +proceed, many mistakes may be prevented. + + + Be careful in making your drawings. + + Keep your pencil sharp. + + Be precise in making measurements. + + Handle the tools with care. + + Finish one job before starting another. + + Have a place for your tools. + + Keep your glue and wood-finishes well covered to prevent + drying. + + Keep your brushes in kerosene to prevent them from getting + stiff. + + Be clean in handling colors. + + Let one color get dry before joining on another. + + Let the colors join on sharp and definite lines. + + Pick up only a small amount of color with the brush. + + Lay the color on in a thin coat. + + Clean your brushes before putting them away. + + Give your work that clean, crisp, snappy appearance which + is the mark of superior craftsmanship. + + +[Illustration] + + +THE BUZZER + +This toy is made from 1/4" stock. Two 1/8" holes are located on a +straight line passing thru the center, one on each side of the center +and 1/4" from it. The circle is drawn with compass, and then sawed to +the line. + +The circumference is stepped off into lengths equal to the radius, and +every second point connected by line with the center. This divides the +surface into three equal spaces called sectors. Color each sector with +one of the primary colors--red, blue and yellow. + +A strong cord is slipped thru the two holes, and the ends tied +together in a square knot, leaving a loop on each side of the wheel. + +To operate the buzzer, insert a finger of each hand in the loops and +swing the disk around in a circular motion till the strands of the +cord are twisted together. Then pull hard on the cord so that the disk +will be set into a spinning motion as the cord is being unwound. At +this instant slacken the cord so that the disk may continue turning, +and rewind the string. Then pull on the cord again, and the disk will +spin in the opposite direction. By whirling the disks rapidly in +this way, the colors will blend and show a new color produced by the +three primary colors. The other side of the wheel may have half of it +colored yellow and half colored blue. This will blend into green when +spun. By pasting paper sectors of different colors on the wheel, an +infinite number of tests in color-blending may be made. + + +THE SHARK PUZZLE + +The shark is sawed out as shown in the drawing and three holes bored. + +To make one of the rings, draw two concentric circles--one 1/2" radius +and the other 3/4" radius. First, saw out the inner circle and then +the outer. + +Take a piece of cord a foot long, double it and slip the loop thru the +middle hole in the shark. Next, put the two ends of the cord thru the +loop. Slip a ring on each end of the cord, and tie with a slip knot +into the end hole in the shark. + +Puzzle: Transfer a ring from one end to the other. + +[Illustration: BUZZER SHARK PUZZLE] + + +DUCK + +The parts for this fowl are sawed out of 1/4" stock. The edges should +be sawed square and to line, and may be made smooth and slightly +rounded by filing and sand-papering. + +The two feet should be made alike and held together when the hole for +the nail is drilled thru them. The bottom of the feet will then be on +the same level, and the duck will stand upright. Put a fine 1" nail +thru one foot, drive it thru the body, at the proper place, and press +it thru the other foot. + +With round-nose pliers, bend the end of the nail around so the end +will point toward the wood (Fig. 5). Place the head of the nail +against a block of iron, and with the hammer drive the point of the +nail into the foot. The joint should be firm and movable so the duck +will stand at different postures. + +Color the body brown, with black outlines and streaks on the wings, +the bill yellow, the head green, and the feet red. + +[Illustration: Fig. 6. Platform Bases.] + + +GOOSE + +This project may be made of 3/8" stock and fastened to a platform base +(Fig. 6). + +The platform is made of two rectangular pieces one on top of the +other. The upper is 1-1/2" by 2-1/4"; the lower, 2-1/4" by 3". The +grain in the two pieces should cross to prevent warping. + +To fasten the goose to the platform, outline on the upper piece of the +platform the position for the foot. Hold the goose with foot up. Drive +1-1/2" brads thru the upper piece of the platform into the foot. + +On the upper side of this upper piece of the platform, locate points +at each corner, 1/4" from the outer edges, and drive 5/8" escutcheon +pins thru it into the lower piece of the platform. + +Smooth all parts, and color the body white with black trimmings. Make +the bill yellow, the feet red and the platform green. + +[Illustration: DUCK GOOSE] + + +WILD DUCK + +The body may be cut from 3/8" stock, or from heavier material if so +desired. It may be whittled to natural shape with a pocket knife +before fastening it onto the platform. + +The bill, eye and feet are colored yellow, throat, breast and tail +red, head and wings dark green, and platform blue. + + +HEN + +The construction of this problem is similar to that of the goose. Her +feet and comb are colored red, body white with black trimming, beak +and platform yellow. + +[Illustration] + +[Illustration: WILD DUCK HEN] + + +DEER + +The stock is 3/8" thick, the grain running vertical. It should be +mounted on a wheel base 3/8" by 2" by 5-1/2" (Fig. 7). The deer is +colored reddish brown, but nearly white under the body and on the +lower parts of the legs. Color the base black and the wheels red. + +[Illustration: Fig. 7. Wheel Base.] + +[Illustration: DEER] + + +COW + +The stock is 3/8" thick. The grain of the wood should run vertical. +The cow should be mounted on a wheel base 3/8" by 2" by 5-1/2". Wheels +are 3/8" thick, 1-1/2" diameter. This is a Jersey cow, and should be +colored accordingly. The base may be colored green, and the wheels red. + +[Illustration] + +[Illustration: COW] + + +WEASEL + +This little creature is wary and swift as lightning in its movements. + +The stock should be 1/4" thick, the grain running lengthwise of the +body. It may be mounted on rocker base 1/4" by 1-1/2" by 5" (Fig. 8. +See text on "Minstrels," page 30). It is reddish brown with under part +of body light. + +[Illustration: Fig. 8. Rocker Bases.] + +[Illustration: WEASEL] + + +TIGER + +This may be treated in the same way as the weasel except the coloring. +Examine a tiger in the zoo, or look up some colored pictures of tigers +so you will know just how to draw his stripes and just what color to +make them. + +[Illustration] + +[Illustration: TIGER] + + +ROCKING RHINO + +The rhinoceros should be cut out and colored and mounted on a platform +which has rockers fastened to its edges (Fig. 8). + +Hold the animal in the vise, head down, and nail thru the platform +into the feet. + +[Illustration] + +[Illustration: ROCKING RHINO] + + +MINSTRELS + +The stock for the two minstrels, the platform and the rockers is 1/4" +thick, with the grain of the wood running lengthwise in each object. + +The bottom of the feet of the figures should fit squarely onto the +platform. The rockers are laid off with the compass. The center of the +arc is on a separate piece of wood of the same thickness as the rocker. + +When the rockers are accurately finished and nailed to the platform, +a center line is drawn along the under side of the platform, and +points located to match the position of the feet of the figures. +Use 3/4" brads and drive them thru the platform. Hold the figures, +heads down, in the vise, or in clamps, and, in turn, drive the brads +thru the feet and into the legs so that the figures will stand in an +upright position. They are then colored in such brilliant attire as is +becoming two gay minstrels. + +[Illustration] + +[Illustration: MINSTRELS] + + +SQUIRREL + +The squirrel is generally regarded as being wary and wild. Still, by +wise and kind treatment, its timidity can be overcome, and it may +become quite tame. All parts of the squirrel may be made from 1/4" +stock. Saw out the body, two fore, two hind legs and a nut. + +Hold each pair of legs together in boring holes thru them. Smooth the +parts and assemble them by firm movable joints. + +Color throat and breast light gray, and the remainder brown. + +[Illustration: SQUIRREL] + + +PIG + +This problem is worked out similar to the squirrel. It may be colored +red, black or white, with large spots. + +[Illustration] + +[Illustration: PIG] + + +KANGAROO + +This animal has its home in Australia, where the birds are songless +and the trees give no shade. + +It has a very powerful tail which serves with the two long hind legs +as its support and for making enormous bounds. The fore legs, much +like arms, are used with surprising dexterity by this strange animal. +The nose, throat and breast are very light, the rest of the body is +reddish brown. + +[Illustration: KANGAROO] + + +CAMEL + +It is with significance that this beast is called the ship of the +desert. Like a ship crossing a wide ocean of water, the camel travels +across a great expanse of sand carrying heavy loads of freight. + +It has a wonderful endurance and can go for a week without drinking, +subsisting on the coarse grass of that waste region, and the water +stored up in its humps. Its dreamy eyes, sullen nature, angular figure +and neutral grey-brown color--all seem to resemble the rocky desert +itself. + +[Illustration] + +[Illustration: CAMEL] + + +GIRAFFE + +This creature (Fig. 9) is, unquestionably, the tallest of all the +beasts of the forests of Africa. It does not stoop to obtain its +living from the ground, but browses on the tops of trees. + +It is also called the camelopard, suggesting a resemblance in shape to +the camel and in color to the leopard. + +It is cream-colored with a shower of dark-brown spots on its back and +sides. + +[Illustration: Fig. 9.] + +[Illustration: GIRAFFE] + + +SWAN ROCKER + +All the parts may be made from 1/4" stock. The two sides are made like +the pattern. The seat is 2-1/4" wide, the back 2-1/2". Both are 3" +long, and serve to unite the two sides. + +When the parts are finished and ready for assembling, mark on the +sides the exact location of seat and back; also the position of each +nail on all parts. Hold the two sides together and make small holes +thru them where the nails are to be driven. Nail, in turn, the seat +and back to the first side, and then to the second side. + +Color white and decorate appropriately. + +[Illustration] + +[Illustration: SWAN ROCKER] + + +BALANCING PEACOCK + +Saw out the shape of the fowl as outlined in the drawing. + +There is good chance for display of fine color in dark-green and blue. +The breast should be colored brown. + +Make a small stick about 2" long for a perch. Drive a small nail into +each end of the stick, and tie the ends of a fine cord to each nail. +Press a brad thru the middle of the stick up into the foot of the +peacock. It may then be hung up by the long loop of the string and +swung freely. + +[Illustration] + +[Illustration: PEACOCK] + + +TOY DOG + +This dog may be made of 3/16" or 1/4" stock. When put together, the +two pieces for the body are separated by the head, tail and two +circular pieces. The legs are fastened to the outside of the body by +two long nails that reach thru the five thicknesses. The ends of the +nails are bent back. + +Smooth the parts and color white, with large black spots on head, +back, tail and legs. + +[Illustration] + +[Illustration: TOY DOG] + + +TEDDY BEAR + +This animal has two pieces for the body. The head and two circular +pieces hold these two pieces apart. The head and legs move on tight +joints so that the bear will stay in the desired position. + +[Illustration] + +[Illustration: TEDDY BEAR] + + +PARROT + +This may be made of 1/4" stock. The base has two holes bored thru it +for the uprights with fit tight into the holes (Fig. 10). The perch is +2" long and has a brad in each end to swing on. These brads fit loose +thru the uprights near the top ends. + +The parrot is sawed out, and a 3/4" brad driven up thru the foot which +also fits into the hole in the middle of the perch. + +The parrot may be colored white with black trimmings, yellow beak and +eyes, red crest, tail and foot. The wings are green. + +The stand should have a green base, red uprights, and yellow perch. +The bird should balance well and swing freely. + +[Illustration: Fig. 10.] + +[Illustration: PARROT] + + +DOLL'S HOBBY HORSE + +The two body pieces of the horse with rocker are sawed from 1/4" wood. +The seat and back are made alike, as are also the shelf and foot-rest. +The ends of these four pieces should be at right angles to the sides, +and the edges should be slightly rounded. + +Mark carefully on both side pieces where the cross-pieces are to be +fastened. Hold the two together and make fine holes thru the two +thicknesses where the nails are to go thru. By driving the brads thru +these holes, fasten all the cross pieces to one side, and watch that +the brads go straight. Then fasten the other side in a similar way. + +Color the horses white, rockers red, and seat blue. + +[Illustration: DOLL'S HOBBY HORSE] + + +STERN WHEELER + +This boat is sawed out according to the drawing, and notches cut on +the arms at the stern as a place for the rubber band which serves both +as axle and motive power. The paddles are sawed out to fit together to +form a stern wheel with four paddles. + +The elastic is made in a double loop of four thicknesses, one of which +is placed in each of the four angles of the paddle. By twisting the +elastic band, power is stored up sufficient for the boat to attain a +fair rate of speed. A spool serves as smoke-stack. + +Paint the boat white and smoke-stack red. + +[Illustration] + + +THE WEATHER-COCK + +This fowl may be made of 3/8" stock; a shingle will do. Let the +grain run vertically. The perch may be made of similar stock, triple +thickness, with the middle piece short to allow room for the foot of +the rooster. The pieces are securely fastened together with nails, +and a hole bored in the other end of the perch for a metal pivot, on +which it should swing to tell the way the wind blows. Give it two +coats of paint, using brilliant colors. + +[Illustration: STERN WHEELER WEATHER COCK] + + +ARM-CHAIR AND ROCKING-CHAIR + +These two doll's chairs are similar in construction. Make them from +1/4" wood. Saw out two sides, a back and a seat for each chair. Have +edges finished accurately. The seats are alike for the two chairs. The +backs, also, are alike, except that the one for the rocker is 1/4" +longer than the other. Assemble as shown in dotted lines, and fasten +with 1" brads. + +The chairs may be colored white or mahogany. With due care and skill, +this furniture may be made very attractive and valuable. + +[Illustration: ROCKING CHAIR ARM CHAIR] + + +DOLL'S CRADLE + +Every little girl loves to own a cradle for her doll. Here is one that +is strong and pretty, and can easily be made from thin wood about +1/4" thick. Saw out the two ends after tracing the outline from the +full-sized drawing. The two sides and bottom have their dimensions +given. When properly shaped and smooth, the bottom is fastened with +1" brads between the ends. One-inch brads are driven thru the sides +into the edges of the ends. Be careful when driving the brads that the +sides do not split and that the brads go straight. + +Paint the cradle white on the outside and violet or pink inside. + +[Illustration] + +[Illustration: DOLL'S CRADLE] + + +DOLL'S BED + +This is a problem that will appeal to the little girl. It is also +needed to complete the set of doll's house furniture. It is made of +1/4" wood and fastened with 1" brads. The grain should be run from top +to bottom in the ends of the bed and lengthwise in sides and bottom. + +The parts should be cut out of paper full size and placed on the wood +as patterns. In cutting out the ends, fold the paper on the vertical +center line so as to cut the two halves at the same time. When all +parts are sawed out, fasten the bottom to the two ends, and then put +the sides in place. The bed is colored like the rest of the furniture. + + +DOLL'S TABLE + +This table, being part of the furniture set, may be made from 1/4" +stock. The four pieces comprising the legs are made from two paper +patterns that are laid out to measure, folded on the vertical center +line, cut out symmetrically, then traced on the wood, sawed out, +smoothed and fastened together with 3/4" brads. The top is drawn +directly on the wood with compass and fastened with 3/4" brads, +centrally on the legs. + +It is colored white, brown, mahogany or some other shade to harmonize +with the general color scheme of the Doll's House and its furnishings. + +[Illustration] + +[Illustration: DOLL'S BED DOLL'S TABLE] + + +KITES + +Kite-flying is known the world over. Every boy wants to make and fly a +kite. It is a sport that is almost limitless in its possibilities. + +Kites may be made any size, of almost any shape and with all sorts +of decorations. The two models here presented are types of practical +fliers and are easily made. + +One needs a tail to steady it in its flight, the other is tailless, +but has the cross rod sprung by means of a string into the shape of +a bow. The wind is caught against the convex surface and renders it +steady. In the making of kites, it is essential that a few things be +observed: + +If the size be changed, the same proportions should be maintained. +Make the wooden stays as light as possible consistent with strength. + +Be sure to preserve balance both in distance and weight of the various +parts. Make the cross-lap joint secure by driving a light nail thru +the several thicknesses and bending down the end; then tie them +together with strong twine. Cut a notch in the outer ends of the stays +and in stringing the twine taut prevent it from slipping by tying a +knot around the stick and thru the notch. The paper should be very +light and strong. It is doubled over the string and pasted together. + +The guy-strings are fastened to the ends of the wooden stays and the +anchor line securely tied to them with several knots directly opposite +where the stays cross. A few adjustments in point of balance and of +the weight of the tail may be necessary in starting to fly the kite, +but after they are made, it should rise to a great height and maintain +a steady flight. + +[Illustration] + +[Illustration: KITES] + + +WOOD CHOPPERS + +The stock required is 1/4" thick. Two bodies, two arms with axes, and +two bars are needed for this toy. The upper bar has a place 5/8" from +its center which is widened to resemble a tree stump an inch high. +The pairs of parts are held together while holes are being bored thru +them. The shoulders of the men and arms should have small holes to +make a fixed joint while the men's legs and the bars should have holes +closely fitting 1" nails. + +Both bars are located on the side of the men on which the arms are +fastened. + +Color the coats, hats and sleeves blue, boots and axes black, arms, +fingers, faces pink, and trousers red, bars green, and stump brown. + +[Illustration: WOOD CHOPPERS] + + +THE BUCKING GOATS + +From 1/4" stock, saw out two bodies, as shown in the full-size +drawing, and two bars shown in the dimensioned drawing. Place the +two bodies together and bore holes in the hind legs, as shown, for +1" nails. Do likewise with the two bars. Color the goats white, with +large brown spots on their backs, necks and legs. Color the horns and +hoofs black, and the bars gray or brown. Fasten with movable joints, +one bar on each side of the goats, having them cross as indicated in +the assembled drawing. + +[Illustration] + +[Illustration: BUCKING GOATS] + + +PECKING HENS + +Saw out two bodies and four legs for the two hens. Hold two legs +together and bore five fine holes thru them as shown in the drawing. +Then place one of these with each of the unbored legs and bore these, +using the first pair as template for boring the second. Also bore +holes in the two bodies together, saw out the two bars and bore the +holes thru the two together. Saw out the upright and the tilting pans; +bore holes, and fasten together with a loose joint. Enlarge the two +lower holes in legs of the hens to the size of a 1" nail. Fasten +two legs to each hen with three 3/4" brads, and clench. Finish the +parts in appropriate contrasting colors. Place the two bars between +the legs of the hens and insert thru the holes 1" nails, bending their +ends back to form a loose joint. Take the upright and the pans, and +fasten the lower end of the upright to the middle of the upper bar so +that each pan will tilt when the hens peck. + +[Illustration: PECKING HEN] + + +ACROBAT + +The body, arms and legs are made of 3/16" wood. After the acrobat is +sawed out and holes are bored, paint the parts in gay colors. Assemble +with loose joints. The two upright sticks are fastened to the cross +piece by two 1" brads at each end, after the two holes are bored in +the upper ends for the cord. It is colored green or black. Insert a +strong double cord thru the frame and the hands of the acrobat. There +is a twist in the cord when the legs are down, but it is straight when +the arms point down. + +[Illustration: ACROBAT] + + +CLIMBING SAILOR + +This nimble tar climbs a rope according to a style that is all his +own. Pull on the string, and the friction on the two nails between +his legs being greater than that between his hands, his hands glide +upward. Let go, and the elastic band between his legs and arms pulls +his legs up, and he thus gets a fresh grip. + +Saw out of 3/16" stock one body, two arms and two legs. The arms are +fastened to the body with three 3/4" brads and clenched. The legs have +a loose hip joint on a 1" nail with the end bent back. The rubber band +is held between arms and legs by two nails. The string is held between +two thicknesses of felt or cardboard that are fastened between the +hands with two brads to produce the required friction. Bore holes to +avoid splitting. The string passes down between the two legs around +two nails that pass thru both legs but do not pull them together. +Color the cap white and suit blue. + +[Illustration] + +[Illustration: CLIMBING SAILOR] + + +THE JUMPING JACK + +The wood should be 3/16" thick. Two of each pattern is required, +except the head, which may be made of slightly thicker stock. + +Bore the holes as shown to form loose joints. + +Color the cap and body blue, thighs and upper arms yellow, calves and +fore arms pink, and shoes brown. + +Insert small nails into edge of arms and thighs at the points where +the strings are to be attached. Take two pieces of string, two feet +long; tie the ends of one to nails in the arms, the ends of the other +to the nails in the thighs. Insert 1" nails thru one of the body +pieces; drive 3/4" brads thru it and the neck; place arms and legs +in position; adjust the strings to proper lengths, and tie a knot on +them. Place the other body piece in position. Bend back the ends of +the nails, making loose joints, and drive the brads thru the neck into +the second body piece, and clench. Fasten the legs together with loose +joints, and all should work freely. + +[Illustration: JUMPING JACK] + + +BALANCING BARRISTER + +The body may be sawed from 3/8" stock as outlined in the drawing. Find +its center of gravity by balancing it on a knife edge, crosswise, and +then lengthwise. Draw lines along the knife edge where it balances. +Where these intersect is the center of gravity. Bore a hole at this +point of intersection perpendicular to the body, and so as to fit +tight on a 1/4" dowel rod. Make two discs 1" diameter, 1/4" thick, +with a hole to fit tight on the dowel on each side of the man. + +Color his shirt red, hat and trousers blue, arms and stockings white, +and dowel, shoes and parallel bars black. + +The frame on which the man should balance (Fig. 11), with his head +just a little the lighter, is made of seven pieces. The base, 1/2" x +2" x 12"; the four uprights, 1/4" x 1" x 5-3/4", and the two bars, +3/8" x 3/4" x 15", are firmly fastened together so that the two bars +will be parallel and horizontal. + +When the man is properly balanced, which may be accomplished by +whittling off a little stock where needed, he should roll from end to +end of the bars by giving the dowel a twist between two fingers. + +[Illustration: Fig. 11.] + +[Illustration: BALANCING BARRISTER] + + +THE DANCING RASTUS + +All parts of the body are of 3/16" stock. When sawed out, the parts +are colored separately and assembled. All joints should swing without +friction. Therefore, bore all holes larger than the nail, thru all +thicknesses, except the one nearest to the point of the nail. At +elbows and knees have the heads of the nails on the inside. At the +shoulders place a small wheel between the arms and body, and use a +1-1/2" nail for pivot, with plenty of play. The platform (Fig. 12) +is of thin, springy wood, 1-1/2" wide and 9" long. The upright post +is of 1/2" stock about 6" long and securely nailed to the platform +and braced with a small block. Holes are bored into Rastus' back and +the post so as to fit tight on No. 16 spring brass wire, 5" long. Put +a weight on the rear end of the platform, let the front end project +out over the edge of a table and set it vibrating. This should cause +Rastus to swing legs and arms in a merry fashion. + +[Illustration: Fig. 12.] + +[Illustration] + +[Illustration: DANCING RASTUS] + + +THE SPANKING ESQUIMAUX + +The stock for all parts is 1/4" thick except for the oar and broom +which should be 1/8" thick. Saw out the two figures, wheels and bars. +Hold the two wheels together and bore two holes for the pivot nails. +Do similarly to the bars. Assemble wheels and bars temporarily to mark +places on the wheels where the feet of the figures will be fastened. +Saw out the oar and broom. Color all the parts separately in bright +contrasting values to bring out the outlines of the arms and other +parts of the figures. Fasten the wheels to the feet, the bars to the +wheels in loose joint, and the oar and broom to the man and woman in +positions indicated by the dotted lines. + +When properly put together, the figures should swing when the bars are +moved back and forth, and the oar and broom go flying and strike with +a rattling bang. + +[Illustration] + +[Illustration: SPANKING ESQUIMAUX] + + +WABBLER + +This toy is made so that the wabbler can go or glide down the ladder +on his elbows. The ladder is made from soft wood 3/8" to 1/2" thick, +2-1/2" wide, and 20" long. The openings are cut as shown, and nails +located and driven in exactly as indicated in the drawing. The ladder +is then securely fastened to the base which is made of 3/4" wood, +3-1/2" square. The wabbler is sawed out of 1/4" wood. A full-sized +drawing is shown. This is all one piece without openings. Features and +parts of the body are to be worked out by using paints of different +colors. + +[Illustration] + +[Illustration: WABBLER] + + +FALLING TEETER-TOTTER + +The stock for the upright piece and end supports is 3/8" thick; that +for the two boys and teeter-totter is 1/4" thick. The upright is made +2" wide and 28" long. On the center line lay off points 1-3/8" apart. +With these as centers, draw semi-circles of 1" radius alternately on +both sides of center line. From each center draw lines tangent to the +circles, as shown in the drawing. + +Saw to these lines and curves, and finish the edges so that they are +smooth. Saw out two boys and the teeter-totter board (B, Fig. 13), +cutting out the center opening accurately. Slip this board onto the +upright, and watch it fall from top to bottom in a see-saw motion. +If it fails to travel smoothly, see where the rub is and remove the +obstacle. Fasten the two pairs of cross pieces to each end of the +upright so that it will stand vertically on either end. + +Give it a thin coat of paint. Color the boys and fasten them with a +nail thru the body of each boy, fitting loosely, and driven into the +ends of the board. When the see-saw is turned up-end down, the boys +will swing on the nails and keep heads up. + +[Illustration: Fig. 13.] + +[Illustration] + +[Illustration: FALLING TEETER TOTTER] + + +TUMBLING TOMMIE + +This problem is rather unique in its principle of operation and offers +at once material for study and investigation. Like that of a circus +performer, the combinations must be exactly right or the little fellow +may fall on his head. In making the man, first bore the holes thru +the block and take care to make them parallel. The openings into the +holes from the ends must be in the same plane and made to slide over +the rounds of the ladder without friction. The tumbler may be shaped +and colored to look like a man. A base may be attached to each end, +but on opposite sides of the ladder, so that Tommie may tumble in both +directions. + +[Illustration] + +[Illustration: TUMBLING TOMMIE] + + +THE BUSY PUP + +All parts of this article are made of 1/4" wood except the ears which +should be 1/8" thick. Saw out one body, a pair each of fore legs, hind +legs, ears and tail, and the push-rod and guide. The guide is made of +four pieces and fastened together with glue and brads, as shown in +the drawing. The two pairs of legs are fastened to the body by loose +joints. Holes are bored thru one end of the push-rod and the forefeet; +also thru the projecting end of the guide and hind feet. Fasten that +end of the guide between the hind feet with loose joint (Fig. 14). +Insert the push-rod thru the hole in the guide, which should slide +easily, and fasten between the fore feet. By holding the guide in the +left hand and working the push-rod back and forth, the dog should work +freely and without a hitch in all the varied positions that it is +possible for it to assume. With fine brad fasten the tail. Bore holes +thru head and ears, and pivot them on a loose joint so that they will +swing when the pup is busy scratching. + +The pup may be colored white with black spots on neck, body and legs. +The push-rod and guide may be finished in a dark color or black. + +The stunts that this pup can perform are greater in number than one +would suspect. Furthermore, they increase also in variety as the child +acquires skill in manipulation. + +[Illustration: Fig. 14.] + +[Illustration] + +[Illustration: BUSY PUP] + + +THE DINKEY BIRD + +When properly made up, this bird can bob its head and tail up and +down. A swinging pendulum supplies the motive power. The parts are +shown in the drawing full size, except the clamp that holds the Dinkey +in upright position (Fig. 15). + +The head, tail and body pieces, one with and one without the leg, are +sawed from 1/4", the back (E) from 5/16", the wedge from 3/8", and the +clamp from 1/2" stock. Finish all edges. Drill 1/16" holes at A and B. +Put the two body pieces together so they coincide, and drive fine 1" +nails thru both of them at C and D. Then separate them enough to let +the back (E) into place between them. Fasten the three pieces together +with five 1" brads, and clench. Fasten clamp (F) securely to the foot +at H. + +Color the different parts in gay tints, and let dry. + +Take 4 ft. of strong twine and with small nails fasten one end to +the head and the other to the tail. Pull out the nails at C and D +enough to let the head and the tail slip into their places between the +body pieces. Then reinsert the nails. The head and tail should swing +freely, and the back (E) act as a stop in their up-and-down motion. + +Put the clamp onto the edge of a table top and fix with the wedge. +Pull down on the loop of the string, grasp it about 6" from the top, +and there tie a simple knot. Fasten a stone or a piece of metal to the +loop. Set it swinging and watch the bobbing performance according to +Dinkey fashion. + +[Illustration: Fig. 15.] + +[Illustration: DINKEY BIRD] + + +PELICAN SEWING STAND + +Whether or not this article may be within the toy class, one thing is +certain: It is useful as well as ornamental. The pelican is made of +three thicknesses. The middle piece is 3/8" and the two outside ones +1/4" thick. The middle piece has parts cut away to give room for the +pin-cushion, and in the head, an opening is left to give place for +scissors, which, in turn, serve as the bird's beak. The cushion is +stuffed with cotton or some other suitable material, and covered with +a double thickness of thin cloth, and fastened in place securely by +nails piercing from one side to the other. + +The platform is six-sided in shape (Fig. 16), of double 3/8" +thickness, with grain at right angles in the two pieces, and has +four pins extending 1-1/4" above the surface for holding spools. The +pelican is fastened to the platform by placing the upper thickness +against the foot, and driving 1-1/2" brads thru and up into the foot. +Bore holes and drive the pins for the spools thru the upper thickness. +Lastly, the bottom board of the platform, which extends 3/8" beyond +the upper, is fastened by driving 3/4" brads thru the bottom piece +into the upper. The pelican may be colored with white enamel and black +trimmings, while the platform may be light green or blue. + +Besides the places for scissors and spools, other attachments may be +arranged to suit the convenience of the happy possessor. + +[Illustration: Fig. 16.] + +[Illustration] + +[Illustration: PELICAN SEWING STAND] + + +WHIRLIGIG + +This little device might also be called a child's aeroplane, for it +soars up into the air over houses and trees, and makes everybody +around crane his neck in wonder. The parts consist of the flyer, a +spool and the handle. First, get an ordinary thread spool, bore two +holes in one end and drive in two six-penny nails. Cut off the heads +3/8" from the end of the spool and file the ends round and smooth. +Take a piece of strong wood (yellow pine will do) about 7" long and +3/4" square. Whittle down one end for a distance 3/8" longer than the +length of the spool and so it will make a running fit. + +For a flyer, get a piece of soft wood 3/8" x 1-1/4" x 8". Bore three +holes at the center to fit onto the two pins on the spool and the top +end of the handle. Whittle both faces down to a slant like a windmill +so the blades will be less than 1/8" thick. Put the parts together. +Wind about a yard of string around the spool in the proper direction, +and then set the flyer spinning by pulling the string quickly off the +spool. If all parts are properly balanced and adjusted, the flyer +should go "way up high." + +[Illustration: WHIRLIGIG] + + +THE CART + +This practical project is of heavier stock than most toys. However, +dimensions and sizes of stock may be modified to suit the convenience +and wishes of the maker. The box may be of 3/8" stock, the axle and +tongue of 3/4", and the wheels of 1/2" or 3/4". + +[Illustration] + +Heavy round-headed screws with washers under the heads, fitting thru +holes bored in the wheels and screwed securely into the ends of the +axle, form the bearings. + +Take care to bore the holes thru the wheels and into the ends of the +axle the proper size, and central and true. + +The box is fastened by driving 1-1/4" nails thru the bottom into +the axle. The tongue is shaped to fit on the axle, and is securely +fastened by nails to the axle and wagon bottom. + +A handle of a loop of brass wire may be inserted thru the tongue near +the small end, and the ends bent. + +The box is painted green and wheels and tongue red. + +[Illustration: CART] + + +THE WAGON + +The stock required for the box of the wagon is 1/4" thick, for the +wheels 3/8", for the tongue 1/2", and for the axles 3/4". The axles +are 5-1/2" long; the rear one is 1" wide; the front one is 7/8" wide, +as shown in the drawing. The holes for the screws in the ends of the +axles are bored 3/8" from the lower side. The screws are heavy, 1-1/2" +round-headed, with metal washers under the heads. The holes in the +wheels are bored true, and so that they will just slip over the screws. + +The tongue is connected with the front axle by a piece of tin, cut +from a tin can after the pattern shown on the drawing. + +The cross piece between the wagon box and the front axle, called the +bolster, is 1-1/8" wide, 5" long and 3/4" thick. It tapers from 5" in +length at the top to 2-1/2" at the bottom, where it rests on and turns +on the tin that is nailed to the top side of the axle. + +Always bore holes of the proper sizes before inserting screws. + +The front axle is connected to the bolster by a 2" round-headed screw +on which it turns. In making the wagon box, the sides are nailed to +the bottom, the ends fastened in position, and the back nailed onto +the edge of the seat. + +The box is painted green outside and red inside. The two wings of the +tin plate are bent down to fit tight onto the sides of the tongue, and +nails are driven thru the tin into the tongue. The whole running gear +is painted red. The box is nailed to the bolster and to the rear axle. +The seat is nailed into position, the wheels fitted on, and the front +axle screwed onto the bolster. This wagon is strong and should last a +long time and afford much wholesome pleasure. + +[Illustration] + +[Illustration: WAGON] + + +FLYING GOOSE + +The body, platform and wheels (Fig. 17) are of 1/4" stock. The +wings are a little thinner. Saw out one body and two wings and bore +holes for cords, as shown in the drawing. Saw out the platform and +four wheels, and finish them carefully. The front wheels turn on 1" +flat-headed nails that are driven into the edge of the platform 3/4" +from the end. The rear wheels are driven onto a wire axle which turns +in two wire staples that are driven into the bottom of the platform, +3/4" from the end and 1/4" from each edge. In driving these staples, +take thought to avoid splitting the platform. Also, when boring +holes thru the center of the four wheels, take care to secure proper +direction and sizes of holes for a running fit in the front wheels +and a press fit onto the axle in the rear wheels. Hold the body with +foot up, and nail the platform onto it. With round-nose pliers make +the connecting rods from No. 12 wire with the eyes neatly shaped and +at right angles to each other. Attach the rods to the wings by staples +so the joints will work freely without too much play. Attach the other +ends of the rods to the outer faces of the rear wheels by means of +short flat-headed nails. The nails pass thru the eyes of the rods and +are driven into the wheels 1/4" from the outer rims. The nails in the +two wheels must be in line with each other, as they act as cranks to +actuate the wings. After the rear axle is assembled and fastened in +place, the wings are fastened to the body. + +[Illustration: Fig. 17.] + +[Illustration: FLYING GOOSE] + +The parts of the wings that touch the body must have been rounded off, +as shown in section on the drawing. The edges are removed from the +holes so as not to wear the cord. + +A heavy strong twine may be used for hinging the wings to the body. +Each of the two hinges is formed by slipping the end of the cord up +thru the wing, then thru the body, then down thru the second wing, and +back thru the body; then tie the ends in a square knot under the first +wing. Adjust all parts accurately so they are not too loose and yet +work without friction. + +This goose may be painted white with gray stripes on the wings, red +beak, foot and wheels, and green platform. + +Attach a string or slender stick to the end of the platform to roll it +on the floor. + +Watch the flying goose and see if she can rise by flapping her wings. + + +THE DODO BIRD + +Until recently this bird has been considered extinct, but is here +revived to show what it may have appeared like. In this case it has +chosen to perambulate on four wheels and maintain a bobbing motion of +the head and body by means of a connecting rod between the breast and +a crank on the front axle. + +[Illustration] + +The body swings on a pivot between two uprights which we will call the +wings. These wings are held apart by a piece between the feet, which +is slightly thicker than the body to give the body freedom of motion. + +The two base pieces are fastened onto the outside of the feet by three +1-1/2" brads driven in from each side. The front end of the base is +held together by a piece 3/4" square and 3/8" thick, which is also the +thickness of the base pieces and wheels. The body and wings are of +1/4" stock. + +Make saw cuts 1/8" deep across the bottom of the base pieces to form +bearings for the two wire axles, one 1/2" from the rear, and the +other 1-1/4" from the front end of the base. The axles should turn +freely in these cuts, and nails bent over them will secure them in +their places. The parts are colored in gay contrasting colors before +assembling. The body is pivoted between the wings and the piece +between the feet is fastened. Then the base is assembled and fastened +to the outside of the feet of the dodo. + +Before inserting the axles into the wheels, the ends should be +hammered a little flat to prevent them from turning in the wheels. It +should be a tight fit. Next, put the axles into the cuts, and fasten. +Slip a fine nail thru the hole in the upper end of the connecting rod, +and drive it thru the breast of the bird, and bend the end. Then put +the lower, or forked, end of the connecting rod over the crank on the +front axle and secure it by a brad. + +When rolling along on the floor, the dodo should bob its head in a +most polite manner in recognition of being well put together. + +[Illustration: DODO BIRD] + + +ROCKING-HORSE AND RIDER + +The body of the horse is shown full size and may be sawed from 3/8" +wood. All the other parts should be made of 1/4" wood and have the +grain run lengthwise. + +[Illustration] + +Two fore and two hind legs are required. The upper end of each leg is +tapered off on the side that fits against the body so that the feet +will be far enough apart to be fastened on the inside of the rockers +(see end view B). Each pair of legs should be fastened to the body +with a nail thru the three thicknesses at the place marked. Saw out +two rockers and finish to true and smooth curves. With fine brad +fasten the feet on the inside of the rocker at the places marked, but +take care that the wood does not split. Saw out three rails 2" long +and 3/8" wide to be fastened onto the top of the rockers with two +fine brads, one at each end of the rocker and one in the middle, as +indicated on the drawing by the letter R. The upper ends of the legs +may now be secured to the body by two or three brads. + +Give the whole a general touching up to assure strength and +smoothness. Give it a priming coat of paint. Let dry four days. Paint +saddle, bridle, cross rails and rocker red, and the body and legs +white. Outline eyes, nose, hoofs and other features in black, and the +rocking horse is complete. + +The body of the rider is 3/8", arms and legs 3/16" stock. + +[Illustration: ROCKING HORSE AND RIDER] + +[Illustration: RIDER FOR ROCKING HORSE] + + +ANIMATED ELEPHANT + +The body is composed of three thicknesses. The two on the outside are +1/4" thick, the one in between is 3/8" thick, and reaches only to the +dotted line (Fig. 18), to allow room for the head which is 3/8" thick +and moves between the two outside pieces with 1-1/4" nail as pivot. +This is a loose joint. + +[Illustration: Fig. 18.] + +Saw out the platform and wheels to dimensions. The connecting rod +should be of wood 1/8" thick and 1/4" wide. A hole is bored near the +end that is pivoted to the throat of the elephant; in the other end +is a fork to fit over the axle crank with a fine hole bored at right +angle thru the connecting rod for a brad to prevent the crank from +slipping out. The two axles are made from No. 12 steel wire. One +is straight, the other has a crank in the middle. Flat places are +hammered near each end of the axles so that they may be pressed into +holes in the wheels and not turn. Each axle is held to the platform by +two staples which may be made from long brads by cutting off the heads. + +Color the elephant gray, the blanket red and yellow, the platform and +connecting rod red, and the wheels yellow. Fasten the platform to the +elephant by driving nails thru it into the feet. Press the wheels onto +the axles and fasten the axles under the platform so they move freely. +Fit head and rod in places so all connections are strong and move +without friction. Attach a string to the front end of the platform, +and when pulled on the floor, the elephant will swing his trunk up and +down in a vicious manner. + +[Illustration] + +[Illustration: ANIMATED ELEPHANT] + + +THE BUCKING MULE + +Saw out of 3/8" stock the bodies of the mule and rider (Fig. 19). All +legs and arms are of 3/16" stock. Two circles to be placed between the +man's arms and shoulders are of 1/4" wood. The connecting rod, marked +Z, Z (Fig. 20), shown full size and of 3/8" stock, is to connect the +fore legs of the mule and the crank on the axle. Fasten the legs to +the mule and arms and legs to the rider with loose joints. Then take +rod Z, Z, and make the fork-like cut in the wide end and drill a small +hole thru it at right angles to that cut. This is for the nail that +holds the crank in place. Fasten the rod securely between the fore +legs of the mule at the position indicated. The tail is then fastened +with two 1/2" brads. Paint the mule and rider in contrasting colors. + +[Illustration] + +[Illustration: Fig. 19.] + +[Illustration: BUCKING MULE] + +Next, make the frame and wheels as follows: Saw out two 5" wheels and +bore the center holes to fit tight on the wire axle and to run true. +The frame, the handle, the sides and end are shaped from 1/2" stock. +The two upright pieces are made of 3/8" stock and securely fastened +on the inner faces of the sides. Then the sides are nailed to the +end piece and the handle. Cuts are sawed into the lower edge of the +sides, 2" from the end to form a bearing for the axle. Paint wheels +red and frame green. The axle is best made by holding the wire in a +vise. First, make bends 3/8" on each side of the middle point. Then +make the second pair of bends 1-1/4" from the middle. Near each end +of the axle, flattened places are hammered so that, when driven into +the wheels, they will not turn. Drive the wheels onto the axle. Put +the axle in place, drive nails into the sides, and bend them over the +axle to hold it in place. Take the mule, put the projection from the +body between the two uprights on the frame, insert a 1-1/2" nail thru +the three holes, and bend the end back. Join the connecting rod to the +crank. Stride the rider on the mule and insert a nail thru his thighs +and the back of the mule. With a neat cord connect the hands to the +mouth of the mule, for a bridle. Take hold of the handle and watch the +mule gallop when you push him along. + +[Illustration: Fig. 20.] + +[Illustration: RIDER FOR BUCKING MULE] + + +FOX-AND-GOOSE GAME + +This game is played by two people on a board with 33 holes, as shown +in the drawing. The board may be made either square or octagonal. The +octagon is made from a square by placing one point of the compass at +a corner and the other point at the center of the board. With each +corner in turn as a center, draw arcs intersecting the edges of the +board. Connect these points of intersection across the corners of the +board; saw off the four triangles. Smooth the edges and chamfer. Lay +out and bore the holes. Make 26 pegs to fit loose. Leave 24 white for +the geese and color 2 red for the foxes. + +In playing the game, all the pegs are put in their places. The foxes +at Nos. 9 and 11; the geese at 7, 8, 12, 13, and consecutively up to +33. The foxes and geese can move on the lines only, in any direction +from one hole to the next. A fox can also jump over a goose and take +it, provided the hole just beyond it is vacant. In fact, the fox +can jump and take several geese in various directions if conditions +permit. The geese can not jump, but they can move so as to hem in the +foxes and make it impossible for them to move. This means that the +foxes have lost the game. In starting the game, the player having +the foxes gets the first move. His aim is to jump and capture all +the geese and win the game. Each player takes turn in moving. When +crowding a goose in on a fox, the player always has another goose +behind it so that the fox can not jump it. This game is one of the +kind that requires foresight and study. It is highly interesting and +entertaining, and by experience, players may become quite expert at +the game. + +_Solitaire_--This same board may also be used for the solitaire game. +However, that requires 32 pegs. They are put in all the holes except +No. 17. The object is to jump and take all the pegs but one, and it +must land in hole 17. Unaided, this is difficult to do, and it would +take a long time for a person to discover a solution. For this reason, +the reader is presented with the following "Key": 5 jumps to 17 and +takes 10, 12 to 10 and takes 11, etc.; 3 to 11, 1-3, 18-6, 3-11, +30-18, 27-25, 13-27, 24-26, 27-25, 22-24, 31-23, 33-31, 16-28, 31-23, +4-16, 7-9, 21-7, 10-8, 7-9, 24-22, 22-8, 8-10, 10-12, 12-26, 26-24, +17-15, 29-17, 18-16, 15-17. + +[Illustration: FOX-AND-GEESE GAME] + + +NINE MEN'S MILL + +This is a game that is played by two persons and is as fascinating as +it is old. The upper part of the board is 3/8" thick and has 24 holes +bored thru it, as shown in the drawing. The lower board is 7-1/2" +square and 1/4" thick, and extends 1/4" beyond the top board on all +sides. The grain in the two boards should run at right angles when +fastened together. The 18 pegs are 3/8" in diameter and 1" long. Each +player has a set of 9 pegs, the sets being differently colored. In +starting a game, each player takes his turn in putting a peg into a +hole till all the pegs are put down. Then they take turns in moving +the pegs. A peg may be moved from one hole to the next and only along +rows parallel with the edges of the board, not along the rows that run +from corners of the board to its center. That is, along rows 1, 2, +3 or 2, 5, 8, but not along rows 1, 4, 7. The object of a player in +putting down pegs and in moving is to get a Mill; that is, get 3 pegs +in a row parallel with the edges of the board. For example: Pegs in +holes 4, 5, 6 or 2, 5, 8 makes a Mill, but not 3, 6, 9. When a player +gets a Mill, he can take one of his opponent's pegs that is not in a +Mill. Another aim of a player is to place his pegs so that he prevents +his opponent from getting a Mill. When the pegs of one of the players +have all been taken except 3, then he is allowed to jump anywhere on +the board. When the pegs are all gone but two, then the game is lost. +When a player can get 5 pegs into holes situated as 7, 8, 9 and 4, 6, +then he has a double Mill by moving from 8 to 5 and from 5 to 8, etc., +and pick one of his opponent's pegs for each move. + +[Illustration] + +[Illustration: NINE MEN'S MILL] + + +DISK PUZZLE + +This problem consists of a base, three spindles and seven disks of +different diameters. The spindles are fitted tight into holes in the +base and rounded at the top so the disks will slide over freely. The +seven disks are laid out on the wood with compass, and to prevent +splitting the holes are all bored before the sawing is done. + +The parts may receive a finish of stain and two or three coats of +shellac. Polish with No. 1/2 sand-paper between each coat. + +_Puzzle_--Place all disks on one spindle, decreasing in sizes upward. +The object is to transfer the disks to one of the other spindles and +to be in the same order. In doing this, never have more than one disk +at a time removed from the spindles, and never place a larger disk on +top of a smaller one. + +[Illustration: DISK PUZZLE] + + +BALL PUZZLE + +At first it is not evident why this is called a ball puzzle, but, when +let into the secret, most people see at once a good reason for naming +it so. The wooden ball or marble is hidden from sight inside of the +wood and may be shifted in position from the middle to the upper piece +of the puzzle and vice versa (Fig. 21). + +[Illustration: Fig. 21.] + +The problem is to slide the middle piece off of the pin that projects +up from the lower piece and swing it around its pivot. This pivot is a +1-1/2" round-headed screw, fitting loosely in the upper two and fixed +in the lower piece. A 1/2" hole is bored thru the middle and 1/2" +deep in the upper piece to hold the 7/16" ball. This hole is bored +so it touches the hole for the screw. In the middle piece, the screw +can slide into it. In order to make the ball leave its position in +the middle piece, the puzzle must be held upside down. The drawings +show the puzzle both closed and open, and supply directions for +constructing this interesting problem. + +Finish with stain and two coats of shellac. This puzzle may be a +source of much genuine amusement when a circle of friends come +together and all want a hand at opening it, each having his advice to +give how to solve this mysterious problem. + +[Illustration: BALL PUZZLE] + +[Illustration] + + + + +APPENDIX + +KNOTS AND BRAIDS + + +Most of us are called upon, in the course of our daily duties, whether +afloat or ashore, in camp or at home, to hitch up pack animals, do +up packages, equipments and outfits, and make fastenings on sails, +tents, scaffolding and play apparatus. This involves the tying of a +great number of knots and in many cases life and limb depend upon the +correct tying of those knots. The seamen, textile workers and civil +engineers are pastmasters of the art. Our scouts, sailors and soldiers +are taught knot-tying as an essential factor in their training. Would +it not seem a part of wisdom, for the sake of safety and economy in +time and good nature, for everybody to master these knot problems? It +would, at least, be a very practical part of the training for children +in the schools. + +They should be taught knot-tying and its application in an intelligent +and thoro manner, and have frequent practice-drill therein, till it +becomes second nature to them. + +When a knot is tied, it must be pulled together tight, so as to stay. +Otherwise, especially if the cord is stiff, the loops will slide apart +or flop out of position, and the knot will come loose. A knot derives +its strength and reliability from the friction between its different +parts. When tension is applied on a knot, the two parts which lie +alongside of each other should move in the reverse directions and +produce a maximum amount of friction, as the ropes tend to slip. + +One may readily learn to tie the different knots by carefully +following the accompanying drawings. Procure a slender, flexible +rope, bend it into the shape shown in the drawing, and go over and +under, as indicated, so that the parts will be in the correct relative +positions. Begin by making the simple knots, and, later, tackle the +more complex ones. Also learn their names. + + +NAMES OF KNOTS AND BRAIDS + + 1. Overhand knot--to prevent unraveling of rope, starting + of a square knot; also a stop knot. + + 2. Figure-eight knot--used for a stop knot. + + 3. Boat knot--used on sails and rigging. + + 4. Slip knot--used to fasten rope end to a post. + + 5. Flemish loop--stays tight, will jam. + + 6. Stevedore knot--will not jam. + + 7. Sheet bend or weaver's knot--for joining two ends. + + 8. Square or reef knot--for joining two cords--very useful, + is non-slipping. + + 9. Granny knot--most people confuse it with the square + knot. It will slip. + + 10. Thief knot--will slip. + + 11. Carrick bend--used on top of gin pole or mast to hold + it erect; the four ends are fastened to the ground. + + 12. Carrick bend--used to join two ropes. + + 13. Bowline--a very useful non-slipping loop. + + 14. Clove hitch--an effective means for fastening rope to a + post or ring. + + 15. Timber hitch--used for pulling logs. + + 16. Handcuff hitch--used to convey prisoners. + + 17. Sheepshank--to decrease the length of a rope. + + 18. Bowknot--is tied like the square knot, but with ends + doubled back in tying the latter half--used on neckties and + ribbons. + + 19. Spanish bowline--used as boatswain's chair. + + 20. Wall knot--used by electricians as a stop on drop-cord. + + 21. Wall knot crowned--a neat rope-end finish, to prevent + unraveling. + + 22. Three-strand flat braid. + + 23. Four-strand flat braid, begun. + + 24. Four-strand flat braid, continued--the right strand + goes over, the left one goes under, and then is passed to + the right, in front of the middle strand. + + 25. Six-strand flat braid, begun. + + 26. Six-strand flat braid, continued--note that each strand + goes from one side clear to the other, before turning + around and goes over and under, alternately, in crossing + the other strands. + + 27. Chain knot--is begun like a slip knot. + + 28. Chain knotting, continued--each loop is pulled taut. + + 29. Double chain knotting--is started like the single chain + knot, but the second loop is formed from the free end, and + slipped thru from the same side as the first. Both ends are + used, alternately, and the loops are pulled taut. It makes + a beautiful cord, triangular in shape. + + 30. Genoese braid, begun--two cords are used, one end of + each is used as a core, tho a thicker core may be used, and + with the other two ends, in turn, loops are drawn around + the core. + + 31. Genoese braid, continued--makes a handsome flat braid. + + 32. Watch fob--may be made of three or more strings or + ribbons. Four strings are used in this case. Take two shoe + strings and double them. Tie thread around them, about two + inches from the loops. Hold the loops in the left hand, + with the ends up. Name them A, B, C, D, as is shown in + the drawing. First, bend A to the right; bend D over A, + and away from you; bend C over D, and to the left; bend B + over C, and toward you, and slip the end under the loop of + A. Second, take string A and double it back to the left; + bend B over A, and away from you; bend C over B, and to + the right; bend D over C, and toward you, and slip the end + under loop at A. The third step is like the first, and the + fourth like the second. When finished, slip the loops thru + your watch-ring, open the two loops and slip the watch fob + thru them. The charm is neatly fastened to the finishing + ends. + + 33. Banister bar--is made by tying the overhand knot over a + core of any desired thickness. + + 34. Banister bar, continued--the process of tying this knot + is as follows: Hold the left strand horizontally behind + the core; reach under it at the right of the core and take + the right strand, bring it forward and to the left across + the front of the core, and then back at the left of the + core, thru the loop formed by the left strand. Continue by + repeating this process. + + 35. Solomon's knot--this is started like the banister bar, + but, instead of tying all the knots alike, the tying is + done, in turn, first with the right-hand strand, then with + the left. Each strand will thus remain on the same side of + the core as at the start. The strand in front of the core + is used continually for tying the knot by the left and + right hand, alternately, as the strand moves from side to + side. It is a series of left and right overhand knots over + a core. + + 36. Four-strand round braid--is very pretty, and well + repays any difficulty in mastering it. It is not as easy to + illustrate, by drawing, the process of making a round braid + as a flat one; however, by carefully following the movement + of each strand in the illustration, while manipulating the + four strings, one will soon gain success and also much + satisfaction. + + First, hold the four strands in the left hand, as in the + beginning of the flat braid, but, instead of taking the + right strand, reach in, just in the left of the right + strand, and, from behind, take the left strand, bring it + forward and across in front from right to left. Second, + exchange the places of the words, right and left, and + repeat the above-described process. + + Referring to the drawing, reach in at B, and from behind at + the right, below x4, take C; bring it forward and across B, + at x7. Next, hold the braid in the left hand and, with the + right, reach in at D and take A from behind, and bring it + forward and across C, at E, as is shown by dotted lines. + + Braiding with three strands, or as many more as desired, + may be done with ropes, strings of beads, rich-colored + cords and ribbons, or basketry materials, for making many + useful and beautiful articles, such as chains, belts, + hangings, bags, portieres and wicker work for baskets, lamp + shades and chairs. + +[Illustration] + + + + +TOY PATTERNS + +_By_ MICHAEL C. DANK + +A collection of full-size toy patterns. Toys which make a strong +appeal to the child. Each pattern sheet presents a particular class of +toys including Jointed Animals, Animal Rocker Toys, Wheeled Platform +Toys, Lever Toys, String Toys, Freak Toys, Novelties, etc. While +intended to be worked out in wood many are equally well adapted for +cardboard. Toy-making at home from these patterns is a fine hobby +for the boy from six to twelve years of age, and in the school is a +fascinating manual training activity. These patterns are based upon +the author's long experience in the teaching of toy-making in public +and private schools and summer camps. They are well presented on +sheets size 10-1/2 x 14 inches and are enclosed in a portfolio with an +attractive design in color. _Price, 80 cents._ + + +MANUAL TRAINING TOYS _for the_ BOYS WORKSHOP + +_By_ HARRIS W. MOORE.--A popular boys' book illustrating 42 projects +overflowing with "boy" interest. The drawings are full-page and show +each project complete and in detail. A descriptive text accompanies +giving full information as to materials needed and how to proceed with +the simple tools required. _Price, $1.50._ + + +COPING SAW WORK + +_By_ BEN W. JOHNSON.--Presents drawings and suggestions for a +course of work in thin wood that is full of fun for the children, +and affording ample means for training in form study, construction, +invention and careful work. A helpful guide for the teacher of the +fourth grade. _Price, 30 cents._ + + +KITECRAFT _and_ KITE TOURNAMENTS + +_By_ CHARLES M. MILLER.--An authoritative and comprehensive treatment +of kitecraft. The book deals with the construction and flying of +all kinds of kites, and the making and using of kite accessories. +Also aeroplanes, gliders, propellers, motors, etc. Four chapters +are devoted to presenting a detailed description of kite flying +tournaments. Abundantly illustrated and attractively bound. _Price, +$1.75._ + + +BIRD HOUSES BOYS CAN BUILD + +_By_ ALBERT F. SIEPERT.--A book of rare interest to boys. It is +written in the boy spirit and combines the charm of nature with the +allurements of continuation work in wood. It illustrates hundreds +of bird houses and shows working drawings of various designs, also +feeders, shelters, sparrow traps, and other bird accessories. The +common house nesting birds are pictured and described with information +regarding houses, foods, etc., suitable for each. A pleasing and +practical book for wide-awake boys. _Price, 65 cents._ + +_Send for Descriptive Catalog._ + +THE MANUAL ARTS PRESS + +PEORIA, ILLINOIS + + + + +Transcriber's Notes + + +REMINDER: LEAD-PAINT WARNING! DO NOT USE THE GROUND-LEAD PAINT +INGREDIENTS mentioned in the "Coloring the Toys" chapter. This book +was published before the harmful effects of lead paint to children +were known. Also, when working with enamel paint that contains a high +quantity of solvents, make sure the area is as well-ventilated as +possible. If still in doubt, wear a respirator mask to prevent the +toxic effects of solvent inhalation. Paper masks do not block solvent +fumes. + +Some of the diagrams have been moved from their original positions to +the sections describing their constructions. + +Pages 6, 13: Retained original spelling of "thoroly." + +Page 15: Changed "craftmanship" to "craftsmanship." + +Page 31: Changed "Minsrels" to "Minstrels." + + + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Educational Toys, by Louis C. Petersen + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 43635 *** |