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diff --git a/43608.txt b/43608.txt deleted file mode 100644 index e2b85b0..0000000 --- a/43608.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,12903 +0,0 @@ -Project Gutenberg's The Great Frozen Sea, by Albert Hastings Markham - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license - - -Title: The Great Frozen Sea - A Personal Narrative of the Voyage of the "Alert" - -Author: Albert Hastings Markham - -Release Date: August 31, 2013 [EBook #43608] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ASCII - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE GREAT FROZEN SEA *** - - - - -Produced by Marius Masi, Greg Bergquist and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.) - - - - - - - -THE GREAT FROZEN SEA - - -[Illustration: "ALERT" AND "DISCOVERY."] - - - THE - GREAT FROZEN SEA - - _A PERSONAL NARRATIVE OF THE VOYAGE - OF THE "ALERT"_ - - DURING THE ARCTIC EXPEDITION OF 1875-6 - - - BY - - REAR-ADMIRAL ALBERT HASTINGS MARKHAM, R.N. - (LATE COMMANDER OF H.M.S. "ALERT") - - AUTHOR OF "A WHALING CRUISE TO BAFFIN'S BAY AND THE GULF OF BOOTHIA," - AND "THE CRUISE OF THE 'ROSARIO'" - - - "There's a flag on the mast, and it points to the north, - And the north holds the land that I love; - I will steer back to northward, the heavenly course, - Of the winds guiding sure from above." - - FRITHIOF'S "SAGA" - - - SEVENTH EDITION - - LONDON - - KEGAN PAUL, TRENCH, TRUeBNER & CO., LT^D - - 1894 - - (_The rights of translation and of reproduction are reserved._) - - - TO - - The Memory of - - REAR-ADMIRAL SHERARD OSBORN, C.B., - - WHO, WHILE HE LIVED, WAS THE MOVING SPIRIT IN SECURING THE DESPATCH OF - THE ARCTIC EXPEDITION, AND WHOSE PAST DEEDS IN THE SAME FIELD - REFLECTED A BRIGHT RAY OF HOPEFUL LIGHT ON THOSE WHO STROVE TO EMULATE - HIS EXAMPLE WHILST FOLLOWING IN HIS FOOTSTEPS, - - This little Work - - IS REVERENTLY AND AFFECTIONATELY INSCRIBED BY - - THE AUTHOR. - - - - -PREFACE TO THE FIRST EDITION. - - -The History of the Arctic Expedition of 1875-76, and the record of its -results, will be found in the work of Sir George Nares. My object in -publishing the present volume is to furnish a popular narrative of -memorable events as they presented themselves to an individual member of -the Expedition, and especially of the work of sledge travelling over the -frozen polar ocean. It was written a few months after our return to -England, but its appearance has been purposely deferred until the -publication of the work by Sir George Nares. - -The same reasons still exist for continuing the work of Arctic -exploration as were adduced for commencing it in 1875. - -It is impossible to complete so great a work in one campaign, and the -results of the late Expedition ought only to whet our appetites, and -stimulate us to undertake further discoveries. - -The narrative of Sir George Nares will show the completeness of the -work accomplished, so far as the route by Smith Sound is concerned, and -with the appendices containing the numerous and valuable scientific -results, will prove the importance of Arctic discovery. But there are -other routes remaining to be explored, which will yield equally useful -results. - -Behring Strait is a portal leading to a vast region, the history of -which has hitherto been as a sealed book. - -An expedition to the east coast of Greenland for the purpose of -connecting our discoveries at Cape Britannia with those of the Germans -at Cape Bismarck, and thus solving the interesting geographical problem -regarding the insularity of Greenland, would be of the greatest -importance. - -The exploration of Jones and Hayes Sounds offer a rich field; but that -which, in my opinion, would yield the most profitable harvest, is the -continuation of the discoveries of the Austro-Hungarian expedition in -Franz-Josef Land. Once reach in a ship the position attained by Lieut. -Payer and his sledge party, and such a measure of success would follow -as would prove satisfactory even to the most sanguine. Although the -flags of Holland, Sweden, and America will this year float in the Arctic -Regions, that of England will be unrepresented. - -It is hardly to be expected, in the present critical state of affairs, -that our Government can afford to give either time or attention to the -subject of Arctic exploration, but when the existing differences are all -happily settled, there will really be more reasons for following up the -work than were brought forward for undertaking it in 1875. We were never -in a better position for doing so than at the present time. We possess a -couple of ships whose capabilities for Arctic navigation have been -already thoroughly tested, and found perfect; we have officers and men -experienced in the navigation of those icy seas and in sledging, and we -have stores and provisions ready to equip another expedition. - -The expense, seeing that the ships and stores are lying idle, would be -insignificant, and would hardly be more than equal to that of keeping a -couple of small gun-boats in commission. Surely this great nation could -easily afford, in the interests of science and for her own honour, to -incur such an expenditure. I trust so; and I, for one, look forward with -confident hope to the despatch, in a few years, of another Arctic -expedition as well equipped as the one of which I was lately a member. - - A. H. M. - - 21, ECCLESTON SQUARE, - _March, 1878_. - - - - -OFFICERS AND SHIP'S COMPANY OF H.M.S. "ALERT." - - -OFFICERS. - - _Captain_, GEORGE S. NARES, F.R.S. - _Commander_, ALBERT H. MARKHAM, F.R.G.S. - _Lieutenant_, PELHAM ALDRICH. - " ALFRED A. CHASE PARR. - " GEORGE A. GIFFARD. - " WILLIAM H. MAY. - _Sub-Lieutenant_, GEORGE LE C. EGERTON (promoted to Lieutenant during - the absence of the expedition). - _Fleet Surgeon_, THOMAS COLAN, M.D. - _Surgeon_, EDWARD L. MOSS, M.D. - _Engineer_, JAMES WOOTTON. - " GEORGE WHITE. - _Naturalist_, Captain H. WEMYSS FEILDEN, R.A., F.G.S., F.Z.S. - _Chaplain_, Rev. W. H. PULLEN. - - -SHIP'S COMPANY. - - Joseph Good, chief boatswain's mate. - John R. Radmore, chief carp. mate.[1] - Geo. Burroughs, ship's steward. - Vincent Dominic, ship's cook. - David Deuchars, ice quartermaster. - John Thores, ice quartermaster. - James Berrie, ice quartermaster. - Edward Lawrence, 1st cl. P.O.[2] - Daniel Harley, 1st cl. P.O.[3] - Thomas Stuckberry, 1st cl. P.O. - Thomas Rawlings, 1st cl. P.O. - James Doidge, 1st cl. P.O.[4] - Thomas Jolliffe, 1st. cl. P.O. - Spero Capato, captain's steward. - George Kemish, W. R. steward. - Frederick Cane, armourer. - John Hawkins, cooper. - William F. Hunt, W. R. cook. - Robert Joiner, leading stoker. - John Simmons, 2nd cl. P.O. - Adam Ayles, 2nd cl. P.O. - William Ferbrache, A.B. - George Cranstone, A.B. - William Lorrimer, A.B. - George Winstone, A.B. - Reuben Francombe, A.B. - Thomas H. Simpson, A.B. - David Mitchell, A.B. - Alfred R. Pearce, A.B. - James Self, A.B. - William Woolley, A.B. - John Pearson, A.B. - William Maskell, A.B. - William Malley, A.B. - Robert Symons, A.B. - Henry Mann, shipwright. - William Gore, stoker. - John Shirley, stoker. - Edward Stubbs, stoker and blacksmith. - George Norris, carpenter's crew. - Neil Christian Petersen, Danish interpreter and dog driver.[5] - Frederic, Eskimo dog driver and hunter. - - -MARINES - - William Wood, colour-sergeant R.M.L.I. - William Ellard, private R.M.L.I. - Thomas Smith, private R.M.L.I. - John Hollins, private R.M.L.I. - Elias Hill, gunner R.M.A. - George Porter, gunner R.M.A.[6] - Thomas Oakley, gunner R.M.A. - -The following sledge crew from H.M.S. "Discovery" wintered on board the -"Alert":-- - - Lieutenant Wyatt Rawson. - George Bryant, 1st cl. P.O.[7] - George Stone, 2nd cl. P.O. - Michael O'Regan, A.B. - James Hand, A.B.[8] - Thomas Chalkley, A.B. - Alfred Hindle, A.B. - Elijah Rayner, private R.M.L.I. - -The following "means" of ages, weights, and chest capacities of those -belonging to the "Alert" may be of interest:-- - - Chest - Age. Weight. Capacity - - Officers 32.1 years 149.8 lbs. 266 - Men 27.4 " 146.6 " 245.1 - General Mean 28.4 " 147.3 " 249.5 - - -FOOTNOTES: - - [1] Promoted to carpenter. - - [2] First class petty officer. - - [3] Lost in H.M.S. "Eurydice." - - [4] Promoted to boatswain. - - [5] Died on May 14th from the effects of frost-bite whilst sledging. - - [6] Died on the 8th of June of scurvy whilst sledging. - - [7] Promoted to boatswain. - - [8] Died in June of scurvy whilst sledging with Lieut. Beanmont. - - - - -CONTENTS. - - - PAGE - DEDICATION v - - PREFACE vii - - OFFICERS AND SHIP'S COMPANY OR H.M.S. "ALERT" xi - - CHAPTER I. FITTING OUT. - -Description of ships, 2; special fittings, 3; selection of officers and -men, 5; kindness of friends, 6; games and musical instruments, 7; -visitors to the ships, 8; departure, 9; arrival at Bantry Bay, 12; the -voyage commenced, 13. - - CHAPTER II. THE VOYAGE TO DISCO. - -Tests of physical capacity, 15; regular issue of lime-juice, 16; gales -of wind in the Atlantic, 17; slow progress, 19; whales, 20; the first -ice, 22; the Land of Desolation, 22; seals, 23; the Greenland coast, 25; -fishing for cod, 25; arrival at Godhavn, 26. - - CHAPTER III. THE GREENLAND SETTLEMENTS. - -An Eskimo dance, 28; Eskimo dogs, 29; amusements at Godhavn, 30; ascent -of the Lyngenmarkfjeld, 31; aid from the "Valorous," 33; tradition of -Disco, 34; Ritenbenk, 35; part company with "Valorous," 36; the Waigat -Strait, 36; dangers in the Waigat, 37; Proven, 38; Hans Hendrik engaged, -39; "Sanderson, his hope," 39; Upernivik, 41. - - CHAPTER IV. MELVILLE BAY AND THE NORTH WATER. - -Preparations for a nip, 43; the middle ice, 44; a bear hunt, 46; the -North Water, 47; Cary Island depot, 49; approaching Smith Sound, 50; -enter Smith Sound, 51. - - CHAPTER V. SMITH SOUND. - -Life-boat Cove, 53; visit winter quarters of "Polaris," 54; Littleton -Island, 55; Cape Isabella, 56; stopped by the ice, 57; Payer Harbour, -58; first experiences in sledging, 59; Twin Glacier Bay, 60; an Arctic -paradise, 61; tidal observations, 62. - - CHAPTER VI. STRUGGLES WITH THE ICE. - -Open water, 64; in danger of a nip, 65; vigilance of Captain Nares, 66; -wanderings of the Eskimo, 68. - - CHAPTER VII. A WALRUS HUNT. DOG DRIVING. - -Grinnell Land, 72; glaciers, 73; a walrus hunt, 74; amusements on the -ice, 77; the Eskimo dogs, 78; dog sledging, 80. - - CHAPTER VIII. SLOW PROGRESS THROUGH THE ICE. - -Cape Hawks and Dobbin Bay, 83; discovery of an ancient cairn, 85; -cutting a dock, 87; struggles through the ice, 90; dangerous position, -91; Cape Fraser, 92; junction of two tides, 92; Cape John Barrow, 93; -Cape Collinson, 94; heavy squalls, 95; increasing thickness of floes, -96; icebergs decreasing in number, 96. - - CHAPTER IX. KENNEDY CHANNEL. - -Cape Constitution, 98; difference in appearance of coast-lines, 99; Hall -Basin blocked with ice, 100; Bessels Bay, 100; Hannah Island, 101; cross -Kennedy Channel, 103; musk-oxen, 104; winter quarters of "Discovery," -107; the two ships part company, 107. - - CHAPTER X. THE CROSSING OF THE THRESHOLD. - -Robeson Channel, 110; stopped off Cape Beechey, 113; Shift-Rudder Bay, -114; floe-bergs, 114; the first lemming, 115; marine shells above -sea-level, 116; depot established at Lincoln Bay, 117; a fortunate -escape, 119; crossing the threshold, 119; finally stopped by ice, 121; -the Frozen Ocean, 122. - - CHAPTER XI. FLOE-BERG BEACH. - -Saved by floe-bergs, 125; precarious winter quarters, 126; a -reconnaissance in dog-sledges, 128; habits of Eskimo dogs, 130; -Dumb-bell Bay, 131; eider-ducks, 132; two boats advanced northwards, -133; a severe march, 134; danger of the ship, 134; unable to move, 135; -autumn sledging commenced, 136. - - CHAPTER XII. AUTUMN TRAVELLING. - -Autumn travelling, 138; discomforts, 139; liability to frost-bites, 142; -difficulties, 145; cheerfulness of the men, 146; highest position -reached in the autumn, 147; frost-bites, 147; return of travellers, 149; -results, 150. - - CHAPTER XIII. WINTER QUARTERS. - -Preparations for winter, 152; observatories, 153; snow houses, 154; the -ship "housed" in, 154; interior arrangements, 156; winter clothing, 159; -precautions against fire, 161; observations for temperature, 162. - - CHAPTER XIV. THE ROYAL ARCTIC THEATRE. - -Printing-office, 164; school, 166; amusements, 167; Thursday pops, 168; -lectures, 169; the Royal Arctic Theatre, 170; the prologue, 172; -conjuring entertainment, 175; magic-lantern exhibition, 176. - - CHAPTER XV. WINTER OCCUPATIONS AND AMUSEMENTS. - -Departure of the sun, 178; Guy Fawkes' Day, 179; scientific -observations, 180; the moon, 181; open-air exercise, 181; inconvenience -from drip, 182; fluctuations of temperature, 183; movement of the ice, -184; celebration of birthdays, 185; bill of fare, 185; fresh meat, 186; -Divine service, 187; medical inspections, 187; tabogganing, 187; Nellie, -189; a lost dog, 190. - - CHAPTER XVI. AN ARCTIC CHRISTMAS. - -Preparations for Christmas Day, 193; Christmas presents, 194; Christmas -Day, 195; retrospect, 197; frost-bite patients, 198; precautions against -frost-bite, 199; the Palaeocrystic Sea, 200; a brilliant meteor, 200. - - CHAPTER XVII. A HAPPY NEW YEAR. - -New Year's Day, 202; mustard and cress, 205; heavy snow-drifts, 206; -returning light, 207; severe cold, 208; an alarm in the observatory, -209; condition of the Eskimo dogs, 210; Nellie and the lemmings, 212; -Rawson's snow hut, 212; the last school meeting, 213; the last dramatic -performance, 214; the last "pop," 215; grand palaeocrystic sledging -chorus, 216. - - CHAPTER XVIII. RETURN OF THE SUN. - -Cairn Hill, 220; the sun's return, 221; intense cold, 223; experiments -on various substances during extreme cold, 223; daylight, 225; alarm of -fire, 226; dismantling the observatories, 227; the sledge-crews -exercised, 228; a wolf, 229. - - CHAPTER XIX. DETAILS OF SLEDGE TRAVELLING. - -Preparations for sledging, 231; weights, 232; auxiliary sledges and -depots, 234; tents, 235; cooking apparatus, 236; scale of provisions, -237; lime-juice, 238; medical instructions, 238; sledging costume, 239; -precautions against snow-blindness, 240; programme of sledging work, -241; boats to be carried by northern division, 244; names of sledges, -245. - - CHAPTER XX. THE JOURNEY OF EGERTON AND RAWSON. - -Decide to communicate with "Discovery," 247; departure of Egerton and -Rawson, 248; their return, 249; Petersen frost-bitten, 249; heroic -conduct, 251; efforts to save Petersen, 251; difficulties of the return -journey, 253; Egerton's second start, 255; death of Petersen, 255. - - CHAPTER XXI. THE ROUTINE OF SLEDGE TRAVELLING. - -Departure of the sledges, 258; first camp, 260; intense cold, 262; -arrival at the autumn depot, 263; the parties separate, 264; duties of -cook, 265; sledging breakfast, 266; luncheon, 266; halting for the -night, 268; evenings in the tent, 270. - - CHAPTER XXII. THE NORTHERN DIVISION--TRAVELLING IN APRIL. - -Heavy ice encountered, 273; road-making over the ice, 275; struggling -over hummocks, 278; daily routine, 279; continued cold, 280; excellence -of the sledges, 281; first symptoms of disease, 282; a gale of wind, -283; heavy snow-drifts, 285; disease increasing, 286; excellent conduct -of the men, 286; resolve to abandon one boat, 288; increased weight to -drag, 289; intense cold, 290; state of the floes, 291; cross the 83rd -parallel, 292; enormous hummocks, 293; hummocks and snow-drifts, 294; -tracks of a hare seen, 296; young ice, 296; enforced rest, 297. - - CHAPTER XXIII. THE MOST NORTHERN POINT EVER REACHED BY MAN. - -Scurvy, 299; difficulties increasing, 300; struggling northwards, 301; -hummocks discoloured by mud, 301; condition of party, 303; issue of -lime-juice, 304; scorbutic symptoms, 305; the last advance, 306; most -northern encampment, 307; soundings obtained, 308; the most northern -position ever reached by man, 309. - - CHAPTER XXIV. RETURN OF THE NORTHERN DIVISION. - -Homeward bound, 312; increased sufferings, 314; courage of the men, 316; -extreme weakness of the men, 316; abandonment of the second boat, 318; a -snow-bunting seen, 319; the land reached, 321; Parr despatched for -succour, 322; a stray dog, 322; death of Porter, 323; his burial, 323; -saved, 325; return on board, 326. - - CHAPTER XXV. RETURN OF ALL THE SLEDGE TRAVELLERS. - -Causes of scurvy, 329; anxiety for Aldrich, 331; May sent to his rescue, -331; return of Aldrich, 332; care of the sick, 333; the welcome back, -335; decide to return to England, 337; musk-oxen, 338; shooting parties, -338; liberation of the ship, 341; under weigh, 342. - - CHAPTER XXVI. THE RETURN VOYAGE IN THE ICE. - -Preparations for abandoning ship, 344; communicate with "Discovery," -345; discovery of Eskimo relics, 347; a severe nip, 348; critical -situation of ship, 349; Discovery Harbour, 349; return of Beaumont, 350; -a frozen cave, 350; "Alert" forced on shore, 351; struggles with the -ice, 352; pass Cape Fraser and Dobbin Bay, 353; a seal and fox shot, -354; reach the open sea, 354. - - CHAPTER XXVII. HOMEWARD BOUND. - -Cape Isabella, 357; letters from home, 358; bad weather, 359; Whale -Sound, 359; off Lancaster Sound, 360; reappearance of fulmar petrels, -361; reach Godhavn, 362; receive letters from England, 363; leave -Godhavn, 363; Egedesminde, 364; sight the "Pandora," 366; arrive at -Valentia, 367; at Queenstown, 367; welcome home, 368. - - INDEX _Page_ 371 - - - - -LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. - -FULL-PAGE PLATES. - - - PAGE - "ALERT" AND "DISCOVERY" _Frontispiece_ - POLAR BEARS _To face_ 46 - WINTER QUARTERS H.M.S. "ALERT" 151 - HIGHEST NORTHERN CAMP 308 - REDUCING A FLOE-BERG 349 - H.M.S. "ALERT" FORCED ON SHORE 351 - - -SMALLER WOODCUTS. - - SEALS BASKING ON THE ICE 23 - ESKIMO WOMEN 28 - WALRUSES 75 - CAPE HAWKS 84 - PLAN OF ICE DOCK 88 - "THE MOANING OF THE TIED" 89 - MUSK OXEN 105 - KNOTS 111 - DOG-SLEDGE IN DIFFICULTIES 131 - START OF THE AUTUMN SLEDGES 143 - DIAGRAM OF MAGNETIC OBSERVATORIES 153 - FLAG-STAFF POINT (CAPE SHERIDAN) 155 - ROYAL ARCTIC THEATRE--SCENE FROM "ALADDIN - AND THE WONDERFUL SCAMP" 170 - NELLIE 189 - LEMMINGS 212 - CAIRN HILL 220 - SLEDGE UNDER SAIL 231 - DOGS AND SLEDGE 247 - GETTING READY TO "BAG" 269 - CHART OF OUTWARD AND RETURN TRACKS 274 - INTERIOR OF TENT 280 - A PACKED SLEDGE 281 - SNOW-BUNTING 319 - BRENT-GOOSE AND EIDER-DUCKS 340 - ALLMAN BAY 355 - FULMAR PETRELS ("MOLLIES") 361 - FAREWELL! 369 - - * * * * * - - MAP SHOWING THE DISCOVERIES OF THE ARCTIC - EXPEDITION, 1875-6 _To face_ 1 - - -[Illustration: ARCTIC EXPEDITION 1875-76.] - - -THE GREAT FROZEN SEA. - - - - -CHAPTER I. - -FITTING OUT. - - - "Vitailled was the shippe, it is no drede, - Habundantly for hire a ful long space: - And other necessaries that shuld nede - She had ynow, heried be Godde's grace: - For wind and weather, Almighty God purchace, - And bring hire home, I can no better say - But in the see she driveth forth hire way." - - CHAUCER (_Man of Lawe's Tale_). - -The above quaint lines, written five hundred years ago, well describe -the scenes that were being enacted during the months of April and May, -1875, in Portsmouth Dockyard. - -Busy as this great naval depot of England almost always is, it is -seldom, in peace time, that so much interest is shown in the equipment -of two small steam-vessels as was the case with regard to those that -were then lying "all a taunto" in the steam basin of that extensive -yard. - -The names of those comparatively small ships were the "Alert" and the -"Discovery," their destination the unknown North. - -Although of insignificant size, in comparison with the huge ironclad -monsters by which they were surrounded, yet a close observer would -readily detect signs of great strength in these two business-like -looking vessels. And very necessary was it that they should possess -strength and powers of resistance of no ordinary kind, for they were -destined to grapple and fight with the heavy and unyielding ice floes of -the Polar Ocean. - -The two ships had been very carefully selected and fitted for the -important work in which they were about to engage. The "Alert" was a -17-gun sloop, and had already served two or three commissions on foreign -stations before she was converted for Arctic service. The "Discovery" -was built in Dundee for the whaling and sealing trade, in which she had -been engaged for a short time off the coast of Newfoundland, before she -was purchased for the Arctic expedition. - -The "Alert" was thoroughly strengthened, and, under the supervision of -the Admiral Superintendent of the Dockyard (Sir Leopold McClintock), -adapted in every way for the hazardous service on which she was about to -be employed. - -After a complete overhaul of her hull, all defective timbers and beams -were removed, and replaced by sound ones; extra beam power was -introduced; an external sheathing of seven inches of teak, tapering from -amidships to four inches forward and three inches aft, extending from -the keel to the waterways, was put on; whilst a longitudinal beam, -placed between the shelf-piece and the lower-deck waterway internally, -bound and strapped the whole ship together. Extra iron knees were -introduced in order more effectually to resist the enormous pressure of -the ice; and the stem was fortified outside with half-inch iron plates -extending to about ten or twelve feet aft, whilst inside the bow was -strengthened by numerous diagonal beams and dead-wood. - -Between the inside planking and the lining were placed sheets of felt -for the promotion of warmth. New waterways, of a most substantial form, -were added; and the ship was divided into watertight compartments. - -Two large davits projected over each quarter of the vessel, by the aid -of which the rudder, some three tons weight, was easily shipped and -unshipped when in danger of being damaged by the ice. On these occasions -it would be suspended horizontally over the stern from the davits. - -Around the galley-funnel was an ingenious contrivance for making water, -consisting of a large reservoir to receive either snow or ice; this, -being dissolved by the heat from the fire underneath, is drawn off -through a tap at the bottom, thus providing our water supply. Like all -vessels employed in the whaling trade, both ships were fitted with -Pinkey and Collins' patent reefing and furling topsails; and each -possessed a steam-winch on the upper deck, capable of being utilized for -many purposes. - -At the maintop-gallant-mast-head of each vessel was a large barrel-like -object. This was the crow's nest, a very necessary item on board all -ships destined to navigate the icy seas. Both ships were barque-rigged, -and were supplied with the ordinary contrivances used on board -short-handed merchant vessels to facilitate the work. - -They formed, indeed, a curious contrast to the heavily rigged but trim -men-of-war, which, with their tapering spars and faultlessly squared -yards, lay in the harbour near them. - -Each vessel was supplied with nine boats of various shapes and sizes, -specially designed and constructed for the service peculiar to Arctic -waters. Two of these were completely equipped for whaling, so as to be -able to follow and capture walruses and narwhals. They were both fitted -with harpoon-guns fixed on swivels in the bows. The ice-boats were three -in number for each ship, and were built as light as it was possible to -make them. Paddles were supplied, by which they could be propelled, as -well as oars. They were all carvel-built boats, and the bows of each -were armed with a broad sheet of copper as a protection from the ice. - -The figure-heads of each ship, like their fittings, were exactly -similar. They were what are commonly called "fiddle-heads," having the -Union Jack painted on them, and underneath the word _Ubique_; and to no -flag can that word be more truly and more appropriately applied. -_Everywhere_ is it to be found, even beyond the limits of the abode of -man! - -The clothing and provisions supplied to the ships were in a great -measure regulated according to the establishments by which preceding -expeditions had been fitted out, and were almost identical in texture -and quality. - -Great care was taken in the selection of both officers and men, and none -were appointed until they had undergone a searching medical examination -as to their fitness for Arctic service, several being rejected who had -the appearance of being fine and eligible young fellows. The slightest -defect, such as bad teeth or old wounds, was a sufficient pretext for -refusing the services of otherwise apparently strong and healthy men. -Numerous were the volunteers that came forward, rendering the task of -selecting a few from the number of eager willing men that presented -themselves one of no little difficulty. - -Their social and moral qualifications were as strictly inquired into as -was their physical condition; and men of a happy and genial disposition -were selected in preference to others who appeared morose and taciturn. - -"Can you sing or dance? or what can you do for the amusement of others?" -were questions invariably addressed to candidates for Arctic service by -the board of officers appointed to select from the numerous applicants -who presented themselves. - -The ray of pleasure that lighted up the faces of those individuals who -were informed that they were to be of that small chosen band, indicated -most clearly the popularity of the enterprize amongst the men of the -Royal Navy; whilst the disappointed ones, and they were many, showed -only too plainly the mortification they experienced at being rejected. -As an instance of the eagerness evinced by the men to be employed in the -expedition, a gallant captain commanding a ship at Portsmouth called at -the office where the men were being entered, and requested advice. He -said, "An order has come on board my ship, directing me to send -volunteers for Arctic service to this office. What am I to do? The whole -ship's company, nearly eight hundred men, have given in their names!" - -This is merely mentioned in order to show the amount of interest taken -by the whole navy in the cause for which the ships were being equipped. - -The ships' companies being completed, officers and men were -unremittingly engaged in the various duties incidental to fitting out. -Provisions and stores, sufficient to last for three years, had to be -received on board and stowed away. There was no waste space on board -either vessel. Every little nook and corner was destined to be the -receptacle of some important article. The ships gradually settled down -in the water as the weights on board accumulated, until they appeared to -be alarmingly deep, whilst much yet remained unstowed. The Admiralty -had, however, provided for this emergency. The "Valorous," an old -paddle-wheel sloop of good carrying capabilities, was ordered to convey -all surplus stores, that could not be stowed on board the two exploring -vessels, as far as the island of Disco, on the west coast of Greenland. - -This was a very wise and necessary precaution, as it would be obviously -unsafe to cross the Atlantic in boisterous weather, laden as the two -ships undoubtedly would have been if they had received no assistance -from a third vessel in the conveyance of their stores. - -Through the kindness and generosity of our friends, and of those who -more especially interested themselves in the progress of Arctic -discovery, we received many useful and valuable gifts. Her Majesty and -the members of the Royal Family testified, in a substantial manner, the -deep interest they took in the enterprize. The name of her Imperial -Majesty the Empress Eugenie must always be associated with the -expedition as one of its warmest friends. Her kind and considerate -present, consisting of a fine woollen cap for each individual, -contributed materially to our comfort whilst engaged in the onerous -duties of sledging. - -To mention the names of all our generous benefactors would require a -chapter to itself. Books, magic lanterns, a piano, pictures, and money -came pouring in from all sides; but smaller and less valuable, though -not the less appreciated, gifts were also received. A small case, with -the superscription, "A Christmas box for my friends on board the -'Alert,'" and containing four bottles of excellent punch, and a little -parcel of well-thumbed books and periodicals, showing undoubted signs of -having been well perused, but which came with the "best wishes of a -warrant officer, himself an old Arctic explorer," were accepted with as -much pleasure and gratitude as were the more costly presents. - -Games of all descriptions, to while away the long evenings of a dark and -monotonous winter, were purchased; whilst a complete set of instruments -for a drum-and-fife band was also added to the long list of our -necessaries. - -In devoting a certain sum of money to the purchase of musical -instruments and games, wherewithal to amuse ourselves, we were only -following an example set us many years ago; for when Sir Humphrey -Gilbert sailed in 1583, for the purpose of discovering new lands, and -planting Christian colonies upon those large and ample countries -extending northward from Florida, we read that, "for the solace of our -people, and allurement of the savages, we were provided of musicke in -good varietie; not omitting the least toyes, as morris dancers, hobby -horses, and many like conceits, to delight the savage people, whom we -intended to winne by all faire meanes possible." - -We also hear, when that brave old navigator John Davis undertook his -first voyage in 1585, with his two frail little barks, the "Sunneshine" -and the "Mooneshine," that in the first-named vessel were twenty-three -persons, of whom four were musicians--a large band in proportion to the -complement of officers and men. - -In spite of the bustle and confusion that are inseparable from the -preparation of such an expedition, in spite of fresh paint and tarry -ropes, several thousands of visitors came on board before sailing, to -the no small hindrance of the work; but it is feared that many others, -owing to the stringent regulations that it was necessary to issue in -order to have the vessels ready by the appointed time, were compelled to -return to their homes without having the satisfaction of saying that -they had been on board the Polar ships. Amongst those who honoured the -vessels with a visit were his Royal Highness the Prince of Wales, his -Royal Highness the Duke of Edinburgh, and her Imperial Majesty the -Empress Eugenie. - -The entertainments given in our honour were very numerous; many were -almost regarded as _farewell_ banquets. - -We were looked upon as public property; our hospitable countrymen, in -the generosity of their hearts, never thinking that we should like to -spend our last few days in England in peace and quietness amongst our -own friends, wished to feed us on the fat of the land, and send us to -sea suffering from that worst of all complaints, dyspepsia, accompanied -perhaps by _mal de mer_. - -At length all preparations were completed. The day originally assigned -for the sailing of the expedition, the 29th of May, dawned grey and -misty, with dashes of rain falling and lying in little pools on our -freshly painted deck. During the forenoon we were honoured by a visit -from the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, who came to bid us -farewell and success on our mission. This was the last official visit -paid to the vessels. At its termination officers and men were left -pretty much to themselves, so that their last few hours in England might -be spent with their own relatives. Four o'clock in the afternoon was the -hour named for the departure of the ships, and punctual to the very -minute they cast off from the dockyard jetty. The last embrace had been -taken, the last fervent farewell had been wished, and, a good omen for -the coming voyage, as the vessels steamed out of Portsmouth Harbour, all -clouds cleared away, and the sun shone out bright and joyous. During the -day crowds had been flocking from all parts of England in order to add -their voices to those of other well-wishers to the enterprize. Seldom -before in that famous seaport town, although the centre of many stirring -events, had such a scene been witnessed. Thousands of spectators were -congregated along the sea-face extending from the dockyard to Southsea -Castle, and on the opposite shore of Gosport, to witness our departure; -and cheer after cheer pealed forth from the assembled multitude as we -slowly threaded our way amongst the numerous yachts and pleasure boats -that had collected to bid us Godspeed. A small thin line of red, hardly -to be distinguished amidst the more sombre hue of the holiday seekers' -dresses, denoted the troops of the garrison drawn up to do honour to -their comrades of the sister service, whilst their bands, breaking forth -with the soul-stirring strains of "Auld lang syne," found an echo in the -hearts of all connected with the expedition. - -It was, indeed, a proud moment for us as we witnessed this unmistakeable -demonstration, and felt that we, a small but chosen band, had been -selected to carry out a national enterprize of such importance. - -If anything was required to assure us of the popularity of our -undertaking, the spectacle that afternoon on Southsea Common was surely -a convincing proof. - -There was but one responsive feeling in the hearts of every member of -the expedition, namely, a determination to deserve this confidence, and -to achieve, with God's help, such a measure of success as would prove -satisfactory to the country and creditable to the navy. - -It will be long before that scene is effaced from our memories. Our last -view of Portsmouth was across a bright blue sea to a shore thronged with -an enthusiastic and cheering crowd waving a last farewell; whilst the -last glimpse our friends had of us was across the same blue sparkling -sea, the snow-white sails of our ships being lit up by the rays of the -setting sun. - -Our feelings appeared to be reflected in the changes of the weather on -that, to us, memorable day. The rain and mist in the morning were -emblematical of the sorrow of parting; while when the sun burst forth -bright and joyous in the afternoon, we all felt assured that the work on -which we were about to be employed would be achieved, and that the -enterprize commenced under such bright auspices would terminate as well -and happily. - -Nothing occurred to mar the departure; one incident only happened that -might have terminated disastrously and thrown a gloom over the little -squadron. Immediately after the pilot had been discharged, one of the -men of the "Alert," in the excitement and ardour of responding to the -cheers with which we were on all sides greeted, lost his balance in the -rigging and fell overboard. He was, however, quickly picked up and -brought on board none the worse for his immersion, although the -consternation excited by this mishap to a boatload of men and women, who -happened to witness the accident, nearly resulted in fatal consequences. -The half-drowned and thoroughly drenched man being restored to his -shipmates, the squadron having been joined at Spithead by the -"Valorous," rounded the Nab-light vessel, and before a fine fresh -north-easterly breeze spread their sails and steered down channel. - -For many hours, however, they were escorted by a little yacht containing -the relatives of some few of the officers of the expedition, which -following in their wake reluctantly parted only when all further -communication was impracticable. - -This, and a visit we received on the following morning from the brave -old admiral, the Commander-in-chief at Plymouth, when passing the port, -was the last sight of friends we were destined to enjoy for many a long -month. - -We all felt that we had bidden them a long farewell, and from -thenceforth, as far as they were concerned, we could only live in the -happy memories of the past, buoyed up by hopes and aspirations as to the -future. - -Experiencing fine weather, the anchors were dropped on the third day in -the snug little harbour of Berehaven, in Bantry Bay. The object of this -visit was to obtain our last supply of fresh meat, and our last budget -of letters from home. A farewell ramble on shore amongst green fields -and picturesque little farmhouses, where we were regaled with delicious -fresh milk, was also enjoyed, and a visit paid to some Druidical remains -near the long straggling village of Castletown. - -And here, amongst the long green grass and by the side of clear rippling -rivulets, we gathered the last flowers of spring that would gladden our -eyes until after our return to our native shore. Carefully were these -floral treasures hoarded until an opportunity offered of transmitting -them to dear friends at home. It is related of one officer, who was so -fortunate as to gather several sprigs of "forget-me-not," and whose home -ties were, perhaps, not so attractive as those of others, that he -offered to barter small tufts of this precious little plant for a bottle -of beer, or a pot of cocoa and milk, the two latter articles being -excessively scarce on board the Arctic ships, and proportionately -valuable. - -On the 2nd of June, the day following their arrival, the little squadron -once more put to sea. From that date the receipt of all letters ceased. -No more telegrams; no loving missives; all intelligence from home must -come to an end. We could live only for the future, and pray for a happy -and speedy return. Before nightfall the high and rugged coast of -Ireland had sunk below the eastern horizon, leaving nothing visible on -the apparently boundless ocean but our three ships as they were lazily -rocked by the long rolling swell of the broad Atlantic. - - "The vessel gently made her liquid way; - The cloven billows flashed from off her prow, - In furrows formed by that majestic plough; - The waters with their world were all before." - - - - -CHAPTER II. - -THE VOYAGE TO DISCO. - - - "Now from the sight of land, our galleys move; - With only seas around, and skies above. - When o'er our heads descends a cloud of rain, - And night with sable clouds involves the main, - The ruffling winds the foaming billows raise, - The scattered fleet is forced to several ways. - . . . . . . . . . . And from our shrouds - We view a rising land like distant clouds, - The mountain tops confirm the pleasing sight." - - VIRGIL. - -The next morning we found that on leaving England we had also left -behind bright sunshine and blue skies, and in their place gloomy grey -clouds were spread over us, while rain fell sullenly through the murky -air. This, with head winds, was our normal condition for many days. -Steam was occasionally raised during any lengthened periods of calm; but -the report from the engineer that steam was ready was, as a rule, -followed by a report from deck that a breeze was springing up, but -invariably from an adverse quarter. - -On the 5th of June, in order to expedite our movements, the "Valorous" -received permission to ignore the presence of a senior officer and make -the best of her way to Disco; the "Alert" and "Discovery" continuing -their course together. - -We were not many days together at sea before we discovered the good -qualities of our ship's company. There was a willingness about them that -could not fail to be appreciated, whilst the thorough good feeling that -seemed to exist was highly satisfactory. As a proof of the desire of -each one to assist his neighbour, it may not be out of place to mention -that the petty officers of the "Alert," a day or two after leaving -harbour, requested permission to take turns with the able seamen in -steering the ship, a duty from which, by their position, they are -usually exempt. It need hardly be said their wish was immediately -gratified. - -During the passage our medical staff was busily engaged in ascertaining -the physical capacities of every individual member of the expedition. -These experiments were by some jokingly resented as an unauthorized -system of mental and bodily torture. Every one's age was carefully -noted; height and weight accurately ascertained; dimensions round the -chest measured; and by means of an instrument called a spirometer the -capacity of the chest was also obtained; a clinical thermometer was -inserted into the mouth and kept there for an apparently interminable -time for the purpose of ascertaining the temperature of the blood. The -treatment we were subjected to in the cause of science was thus -described by one whose acquaintance with the Royal Navy was only of a -few days' standing: "I was unceremoniously laid hold of and measured, -forced into a chair and weighed, was compelled to answer the most -impertinent questions regarding my age and connections; a horrid -instrument was kept in my mouth for an hour or more, and I was forced to -blow into a machine until not a breath of wind was left in my body!" -The results of all these experiments were duly registered, the intention -being to compare them with a similar examination on the return of the -expedition, in order to ascertain the effects of an Arctic life upon the -physical development of our bodies. - -The appetites of the officers, rendered doubly keen by the fresh sea -air, were so inordinate as to cause serious anxiety in the mind of our -worthy caterer, who was fearful that the allowance of provisions would -never last the specified time, at the rate they were then being -consumed. - -From the fifth day after leaving port lime juice was regularly issued to -every officer and man in the expedition. Being considered an -indispensable antiscorbutic, it was essential that precautions should be -adopted to ensure the certainty of each man drinking it daily. It was -therefore the practice to serve it out on the quarter-deck every -forenoon in the presence of an officer. This was never omitted during -the whole period that our expedition was absent from England. With one -or two exceptions the lime juice was drunk with pleasure by the men, and -the exceptions were gradually educated, by taking it in small -quantities, until their dislike was cured. - -In consequence of the limited stowage capacity on board, the officers -were unable to provide themselves with a large stock of beer. A -considerable quantity of wine and spirits, however, was laid in; but as -an anticipated absence of three years had to be provided for, we were -restricted to an allowance of two glasses of sherry per diem, a glass of -port or madeira once a week, and a bottle of brandy or whiskey about -every fourteen or fifteen days. On birthdays or fete days we were also -indulged in a glass of port wine after dinner. - -Ten hogsheads of Allsopp's ale, brewed especially for the Arctic -Expedition, were provided by Government and formed part of the ship's -stores. It was grand stuff--"strong enough," as one of the men observed, -"to make our hair curl!" - -We were not destined to enjoy fine weather long, and our passage across -the Atlantic was by no means a pleasant or a comfortable one. Gale -followed after gale. If they had only blown from the right quarter we -should have been happy, but we had no such luck, they were sure to come -ahead! - -What a lively ship was the "Alert"! making it utterly impossible to keep -anything in its place. It was decidedly annoying, one day, when I -entered my cabin to find my nice smart crimson table-cloth drenched with -ink; but it was no use repining, and I could only exclaim, with Lord -Dorset-- - - "Our paper, pens, and ink, and we, - Are tumbled up and down at sea." - -Liveliness was not her only peculiarity, she was likewise excessively -wet, and although battened down carefully it was impossible to keep the -water from going below. To those who are uninitiated in nautical terms -it must be explained that "battening down" means the careful closing and -covering with a tarpaulin of every skylight and hatchway, in order to -prevent the water from finding its way below. In spite, however, of -these precautions, it is excessively difficult to keep the lower deck of -a small ship dry during heavy weather. - -On the 13th it was blowing furiously with a terrific sea, and we were -compelled to "lay-to" under very reduced canvas. During the night a -large steamer, supposed to be bound for Quebec, passed close to us, so -close indeed that we were compelled to burn blue lights in order to -denote our position, so as to avoid collision. - -On the same night a heavy sea struck us, and washed away our starboard -whale boat. Our consort also suffered the same loss. Nearly all our -fowls, which were in hen-coops on the upper deck, were drowned; only two -escaping! Fresh meat being scarce the manner of their death did not -prevent their appearance on our table for some days. This gale had the -effect of dispersing our little squadron, nor did we again assemble -together until our arrival at Disco. - -No sooner had we recovered from the effects of one gale, than we were -assailed by another. Our only consolation was, the very poor one of -trying to believe that these storms would eventually be the means of -assisting us in our passage through Melville Bay, by breaking up the ice -and blowing it out of Davis Straits! - -The discomforts entailed by the perpetual bad weather did not in any way -check the ardour of some of the officers in their praiseworthy -endeavours to add to the scientific collections of the expedition. It is -related, but I will not vouch for the authenticity of the story, that on -one occasion, when the ship was labouring heavily, a huge sea washed on -board, finding its way down through the skylight into the ward-room, -where it splashed about from side to side with every roll of the ship. -An officer, a most zealous and enthusiastic collector in all branches -of natural history, being in bed at the time, thought that he detected -by the dim light of a lantern some interesting, and perhaps unknown, -specimens of zoology in the water. His landing net was immediately -called into requisition, and, from his bed, he succeeded in fishing up -some of these supposed wonderful organisms. The microscope was instantly -produced for the purpose of ascertaining the nature of his find, when, -to his great disappointment, he discovered they were simply grains of -buckwheat--part of the stock that had been laid in for our unfortunate -fowls! - -Our progress was tardy. On more than one occasion we were actually -farther off Cape Farewell, the point of land we were striving to make, -than on the day previous! - -As we approached Davis Straits, speculations were rife as to when and -where we should meet our first ice. The greatest eagerness was shown by -all on board to become acquainted with the enemy whose fastnesses we -were preparing to attack and from which we hoped to return victorious. - -On the 25th of June, being still at some distance to the southward of -Cape Farewell, a vessel was sighted steering in the opposite direction -to ourselves. We passed at too great a distance to avail ourselves of -such a favourable opportunity of sending letters to England, though -there were many on board who showed an intense anxiety to communicate. -We suspected, and our reasoning proved correct, that this would be the -last vessel we should see for many a long day, and she was consequently -watched with a great deal of interest. She was, in all probability, a -homeward bound Peterhead vessel laden with _cryolite_. The cryolite is -a rare mineral and the sole one which has become an article of trade in -Greenland. It is found only in one single spot called Ivigtut in 61 deg. 10' -N., imbedded like a massive body in the granitic rock, and not in veins -or strata. In 1857 a licence was granted to a private company for -working the cryolite, and in the first nine years 14,000 tons were -exported in 80 ship-loads. During the next nine years the total export -amounted to 70,000 tons. Cryolite is converted by a chemical process -into soda and an alumina unequalled as regards purity and fitness for -the art of dyeing.[1] - -As we neared the waters of Davis Straits, whales were observed in great -numbers. They were principally what are called by the whalers -"bottle-noses." This species of cetacean is the _Hyperoodon rostratus_, -and is from twenty to twenty-six feet long, with teeth in the lower jaw. -The "bottle-noses" are seldom sought and captured by the whalers owing -to the small amount of oil that they yield, not more than a few -hundred-weight of blubber being derived from each one of this species. A -dead whale of the "right" or "Greenland" sort was also passed. What a -prize for a whaler this would have been; worth about L1,000! but of no -value whatever to us, so it was allowed to float by untouched. How the -mouths of our ice quarter-masters, all hailing from those essentially -whaling ports Dundee and Peterhead, watered as they beheld what by them -would have undoubtedly been considered a god-send! The evident look of -wonder, not unmixed with contempt, that showed itself upon their -countenances was truly ludicrous when they found that we were about to -pass so valuable a prize unheeded. This fish--for all "right" whales -(_Balaena mysticetus_) are denominated "fish" by those engaged in their -capture--had probably been struck by some whaler and, having succeeded -in evading its persecutors, had since died of its wounds; or else it had -been killed by the inveterate enemy of the whale the _Orca gladiator_, -or "grampus," sometimes called "sword-fish," which pursues and harasses -these harmless unoffending leviathans of the deep whenever opportunities -offer. The rorqual, or "finner" (_Physalus antiquorum_), was also seen; -it is easily distinguished from the right whale by the dorsal fin -peculiar to this cetacean, and from which it derives its name. The -rorquals are seldom captured, great difficulty being experienced in -killing these huge monsters, which are frequently known to measure as -much as ninety feet in length. Scoresby mentions one measuring one -hundred and twenty feet. Great as is their size, however, the amount of -blubber to be obtained from them is very insignificant. They feed upon -cod-fish (as many as eight or nine hundred have been found in the -stomach of one of these whales) and are constantly seen off the south -and west coast of Greenland. - -A falling temperature on the 27th of June, and a peculiar light blink -along the horizon, gave us due notice of the immediate proximity of ice. -As the weather was thick and foggy extra precautions were adopted in -order to guard against coming into serious collision with any icebergs, -for, however beautiful these floating islands of ice may be during -bright clear weather, they are dangerous and formidable foes when near -and unseen. - -True to the warning received, an iceberg was shortly afterwards -sighted, and by 4 P.M. the ship was steaming through loose detached -fragments of heavy floe ice. - -It is impossible to describe the excitement that prevailed on board on -this first introduction of many among us to that icy world in which we -afterwards lived for fifteen months. To me it gave rise to reminiscences -of old times, but to the uninitiated it was an exciting scene, and was -gazed upon with intense interest. - -The officer of the watch, desirous of having the honour of making the -ship first touch ice, and being also under the impression that a reward -of a bottle of champagne would be given to him who should first succeed -in doing so, steered straight for a heavy piece nearly submerged. His -efforts were crowned with success, but they were also accompanied by a -gentle admonition that for the future he should be a little more careful -of her Majesty's property, and avoid all such fragments as were likely -to knock a hole in the bows of the ship. - -On the following morning we sighted the high, bold, and snow-capped -hills in the neighbourhood of Cape Desolation. This headland was so -called by that sturdy navigator, brave old John Davis, during his first -voyage of discovery in the year 1585. In his quaint manner he describes -"the land being very high and full of mightie mountaines all covered -with snowe, no viewe of wood, grasse, or earth to be seene, and the -shore for two leages into the sea so full of yce as that no shipping -cold by any meanes come neere the same. The lothsome viewe of the shore, -and irksome noyse of the yce was such as that it bred strange conceipts -among us, so that we supposed the place to be wast and voyd of any -sencible or vegitable creatures, whereupon I called the same -Desolation." - -Icebergs were now constantly seen, some being of very considerable -dimensions, and looming in the distance like real islands. As one of our -men wittily remarked on seeing his first iceberg, it reminded him -strongly of the Isle of Wight (white)!! - -The streams of ice through which the vessel was navigated were composed -of fragments of heavy pack ice, that had in all probability drifted down -the east coast of Greenland, and had been swept round Cape Farewell. -They were of very deep flotation, and great care had to be taken in -steering the ship through, so as to avoid striking these pieces more -than was absolutely necessary; so heavily laden was the ship, that the -force of the blows in some instances was very seriously felt. - -[Illustration: SEALS BASKING ON THE ICE.] - -Seals were seen basking lazily and dreamily on the ice, or following in -our wake, staring inquisitively at us with their large round eyes, -looking for all the world like human beings. The fabulous merman and -mermaiden seemed to us easily accounted for. The seals observed were of -two descriptions--namely, the _Pagomys foetidus_, or "floe-rat;" and the -_Pagophilus Groenlandicus_, the "saddle-back," or common Greenland seal. - -Birds, common to these regions, hovered around, following us for days -together and breaking the solitude that surrounded us with their joyous -and gladsome presence. - -The 1st of July was a beautiful, bright, clear, sunny day, and to us was -doubly welcome after the continuous bad weather which until now had been -our lot. Not a ripple disturbed the calm surface of the sea as it lay -blue and gleaming in the sunshine. Here and there a few small patches of -ice reminded us of our proximity to the Arctic circle, while a certain -sharp-bracing crispness in the air, together with a rather low -temperature, served to assure us that the high snow-covered land in the -distance was in reality "Greenland's icy mountains"--no hymnal myth as -supposed by many, but grand ranges, devoid of all verdure, wrapped in -their snowy mantle, and rising to an altitude of from two to three -thousand feet above the level of the sea, a majestic and sublime -reality. - -By noon we were off the little Danish settlement of Fiskernaes, and -shortly afterwards passed that of Godthaab, but at too great a distance -to make out the buildings or any signs of inhabitants. It was at -Godthaab that Hans Egede landed on July 3rd, 1721, with his wife and -children, and commenced his noble and disinterested labour of love among -the Eskimos. The missionary institutions founded by Hans Egede and the -Moravians have gradually incorporated the whole population of Greenland -into Christian communities. - -The appearance of this part of the coast of Greenland was very striking, -especially to those who were strangers to Arctic scenery. The mountains, -with their peaks so pointed as scarcely to admit of the snow resting on -their steep and almost precipitous sides, intersected by grand fiords -and gorges penetrating for miles into the interior, formed a magnificent -landscape. - -To the great relief and joy of all, we were on this day rejoined by our -consort the "Discovery," who, like ourselves, had been roughly handled -by the tempestuous weather since we lost sight of her in the Atlantic. - -Expecting to pass over the "Torske" banks, the dredge was prepared, and -fishing lines served out; every one busy stretching and fitting their -lines, and smacking their lips over an anticipated dinner of fresh cod -and halibut. Soundings in thirty fathoms having been obtained on one of -these banks, the ship was stopped and permission given to fish. -Immediately fifty or sixty fishing lines were over the side; but, -although our eager fishermen persevered for a couple of hours, no -capture rewarded their patience. The "wily cod" remained sullen at the -bottom, and could not even be induced to "nibble." - -The dredge was also put over, and hauled in with unimportant results, -only a few echinoderms being obtained. - -During the night an iceberg of curious shape was passed. When first seen -it was reported as a sail; on approaching it a little nearer it assumed -the appearance of a huge column-shaped basaltic rock, and then that of -a lighthouse; for some time it was really believed to be the former. - -On the 4th of July the Arctic circle was crossed. From this date, for -some weeks, we were to have continuous day. The nights had for some time -past been getting gradually shorter: now they had ceased -altogether--candles and lamps were no longer necessary, bright sunlight -reigned paramount. - -Two days afterwards the expedition was safely anchored in the bay of -Lievely, off the little Danish settlement of Godhavn. Although small, it -is the most important establishment in the Inspectorate of North -Greenland, for here resides the Royal Inspector, who controls, with -absolute authority, the large mixed population of Danes and Eskimos who -inhabit this the most northern civilized land in the world. - -A salute of nine guns, from a small battery of three diminutive -specimens of ordnance, welcomed our arrival, the smoke from which had -scarcely blown away before Mr. Krarup Smith, the Inspector, came on -board, anxious to offer assistance, and desirous of extending the -hospitalities of his house to the members of the expedition. - -Nothing could be more kind than the reception accorded us by the -inhabitants of this little settlement. Their sole desire was to please -and aid us in every way, and we were soon firm and fast friends with the -innocent and simple-minded residents. - - -FOOTNOTE: - - [1] See Dr. Rink's "Greenland," p. 79. - - - - -CHAPTER III. - -THE GREENLAND SETTLEMENTS. - - - "Behold I see the haven nigh at hand, - To which I meane my wearie course to bend; - Vere the maine shete and beare up with the land, - The which afore is fayrly to be kend, - And seemeth safe from stormes that may offend." - - SPENSER. - -It was with a very pleasing sensation of relief that we found the ship -once more at rest, after thirty-four days of such knocking about as is -seldom experienced at sea for so long a time without a break. The -rolling and pitching to which a small ship is subjected in a heavy sea -are never altogether agreeable, and the quiet and repose of a snug -well-protected harbour are welcomed even by the "veriest old sea-dog." -But, although free from the turmoil of the "angry waste of waters," our -short stay at Godhavn can scarcely be called a period of rest. Much had -to be done, coals had to be taken on board, and a nondescript quantity -of stores and provisions received from the "Valorous" and stowed away. - -The days were long, however. We had arrived in the region where the -midnight sun shone almost as brightly and gave as much light as at -noonday; and if, in consequence, the men were kept longer at work than -they otherwise would have been, they felt themselves amply compensated -for their extra labour by the indulgence of a run on shore in the -evening, and an open-air dance with the dusky and light-hearted beauties -of the land. - -[Illustration: ESKIMO WOMEN.] - -Never did the deck of a man-of-war present such an untidy and confused -appearance as ours did after receiving the last cask from the -"Valorous." Casks and cases lay higgledy-piggledy amongst coals and -ropes. Such a scene as our upper deck presented would have been -sufficient to drive a smart first lieutenant distracted. We were, -however, all much too practical to think of appearances, our sole -thought was to be provided with enough of everything to guard against -all accidents. Between decks was a repetition of the scene above, and it -was with the greatest difficulty we could move from one part of the ship -to the other. To add to the pleasing state of the vessel twenty-four -Eskimo dogs--the number was afterwards augmented to thirty--were -received on board, to be used in our sledging operations. Such a howling -lot! No sooner did they arrive than a regular battle ensued, and we were -compelled for some days to tie up a few of the most pugnacious, in order -to secure anything like peace. - -This state of affairs, namely, the incessant fighting and squabbling -amongst the dogs, continued until one had gained the acknowledged -supremacy by thrashing the whole pack. This happens in all -well-regulated dog communities. The conqueror is henceforth styled the -"king" dog; he rules his subjects with despotic sway, frequently -settling a quarrel between a couple of pugilistic disputants, reserving -for himself the best of everything in the shape of food, the other dogs -yielding their tit-bits with cringing servility, exerting a complete -mastery over his canine subjects, and exacting from them the most abject -homage. The dogs were kept as much as possible in the fore part of the -ship, and soon became great favourites with the men. - -To take charge of this unruly pack, we obtained the services, through -the kindness and assistance of Mr. Krarup Smith, the Inspector, of a -native Eskimo, who with his gun and kayak was duly installed on board in -the capacity of dog-driver and interpreter. He rejoiced in the name of -Frederic, and had the reputation of being a keen and successful hunter. -Although he could not boast of good looks, his bright cheerful face and -unvarying good temper soon made him a friend to all on board. - -The novelty of a never-ending day, for the first time experienced by so -many in the expedition, sadly interfered with the natural time for rest -and sleep. Long past midnight would the sounds of music and mirth be -heard from the shore, as the dances were kept up with unabated vigour; -while shrieks of laughter and merriment would be heard afloat, as the -officers, indulging in aquatic tastes, would be seen rowing races in -small collapsible boats, or trying their skill for the first time in the -frail kayak. For the management of these latter fairy-like canoes great -caution is required--indeed, it is hardly possible to manage them -without much practice. - -Our first lieutenant was, however, an exception to this rule, for owing -to experience acquired in canoes in various parts of the world, he -succeeded in the management of the kayak so admirably as to excite the -surprise and admiration of the natives. W----, another of our officers, -not to be outdone by his mess-mate, also tried his skill in one of these -little barks, but he had not paddled many yards before it capsized, -leaving him head down in the water, with his legs firmly jammed in the -boat. He would undoubtedly have been drowned before assistance could -arrive had he not shown a wonderful degree of presence of mind. So -securely was he fixed in his kayak, that it was only by unbuttoning his -braces and getting out of his trousers that he succeeded in extricating -himself from his dangerous predicament, leaving that article of dress -inside the kayak! - -In spite of the multifarious duties connected with the ship, which kept -every one fully occupied, the pursuit of science was not neglected. -Several complete series of observations were obtained for the -determination of the magnetic force. Photographs were taken, and -geological and botanical collections were extensively made, whilst a -boat with the first lieutenant and our energetic naturalist proceeded -some little distance up the coast to a place called Ovifak for the -purpose of obtaining information regarding some "meteorites" reported to -have fallen there. - -The desire of "stretching one's legs" after being cooped up on board -ship for so long was universally felt, and officers and men alike -enjoyed a scramble over the lofty volcanic cliffs which overlie the -gneiss in this part of the island of Disco. - -The difficulty of the ascent of the Lyngenmarkfjeld, a range of hills -about two thousand feet in height, situated on the northern side of the -harbour, was amply compensated for by the view from its summit. Landing -in a pretty little bay, in which lay the remains of an old steam whaler, -the "Wildfire," that had fallen a victim to the ice some years ago, and -emerging from the rather dense, though stunted, vegetation that grows -luxuriantly at the base of these hills, the way led over precipitous -basaltic cliffs, until by dint of hard climbing the snow-clad heights -were reached. - -The accomplishment of this task, however, was both arduous and perilous, -in consequence of the action of the frost on the rocks of which the -cliffs were composed; for on the slightest touch they often crumbled -away, rolling with a mass of _debris_ many hundreds of feet to the -bottom. - -From the summit a glorious scene was revealed to us. The mainland of -Greenland, that land so "wonderfull mountaynous, whose mountaynes all -the yeare long are full of yce and snowe," was distinctly brought to our -view, whilst immediately at our feet was the picturesque settlement of -Godhavn, and the three vessels, resembling miniature toy-ships, lying at -anchor in its snug little harbour. The Whale-fish Islands, a group in -Disco Bay, lay spread out as it were on a map. Hundreds of icebergs -dotted the perfectly placid sea, and beyond them we could plainly -discern the great ice fiord of Jacobshavn with its gigantic discharging -glacier behind, and the mouth of its fiord almost choked with huge -fragments of ice, children of that same glacier. At brief intervals a -noise as of thunder or distant artillery announced the disruption, or -creation, of one of these wonderful islands of ice. - -We were not, however, allowed to enjoy this glorious scene in quietness. -Our pleasure was marred by the attacks of swarms of musquitoes. These -irritating insects assailed us on first landing, and persecuted us -incessantly until we were again afloat. - - "A cloud of cumbrous gnattes doe us molest, - All striving to infixe their feeble stinges, - That from their noyance we nowhere can reste." - -It was indeed hard to meet so far in the icy north our implacable -enemies of the tropics! - -The descent was as dangerous, though perhaps not so laborious as the -ascent. Occasionally we were able to avail ourselves of patches of snow, -down which we slid, much to the astonishment and discomfiture of my dog -Nellie, who was at a loss to understand the means of our rapid progress, -and who rushed down after us barking frantically. - -We were excessively fortunate in our weather during our brief stay at -Godhavn. We rejoiced in ceaseless sunshine, which lit up the surrounding -hills with a golden light, throwing deep dark shadows into the valleys -and ravines by which they were intersected, whilst the bright rays of -the sun glittering on the ice-strewn surface of the sea formed a scene -at once novel and sublime. - -Our short stay at Godhavn will, I think, always be regarded with -pleasure by the members of the expedition. Nothing could exceed the -kindness we received and the hospitality that was extended to us by the -good people on shore, who appeared to vie with each other in their -endeavours to render our visit an agreeable one. Nor was it only from -the inhabitants that we received so much kindness. The captain, -officers, and indeed I may say the ship's company of the "Valorous" were -unremitting in their exertions to provide us with every necessary that -it was in their power to supply, for the furtherance of the arduous -service in which we were so soon to be engaged, depriving themselves of -many things that they thought would add to our comfort. - -Although the Eskimos, according to Dr. Rink, and we can have no better -authority respecting the natives of Greenland, have a pretty fair talent -for writing and drawing, scarcely any traces of sculpture belonging to -earlier times remain, with the exception of a few small images cut out -in wood or bone, which had probably served children as playthings. -Notwithstanding the want of means for handing down to posterity and -retaining historical events amongst this interesting people, many -traditions and legends have been preserved. Among the number is one -relating to this island of Disco. It was supposed to have been situated -off the southern coast of Greenland, and in consequence of its cutting -off the inhabitants of the mainland from the open sea, a great dislike -was entertained for it; for, to live comfortably, an Eskimo must be in -the vicinity of the sea, so as to follow his usual avocation of seal -hunting. - -The story relates that two old men, having set their wise heads -together, determined to attempt the removal of the island with the aid -of magic. A third old gentleman, however, desired to retain it in its -position. The first two, launching their kayaks, fastened the hair of a -little child to the island wherewith to tow it by; whilst the other, -from the shore, attempted to keep it back by means of a sealskin thong. -Desperately did the two kayakers labour at their paddles in their -endeavours to move the island, chanting their spells as they tugged at -the hair. But as resolutely did the third man hold on to his thong, -straining every nerve to render their exertions abortive; suddenly, to -his chagrin, the thong parted, and the island floated off, and was towed -away triumphantly to the northward, where it was deposited in its -present position. - -Another tradition says it was removed from Baal's River to its present -site by a famous angekok, or magician, and that the harbour of Godhavn -is the actual hole in the island to which the tow rope was fastened. - -On the afternoon of July the 15th, amidst much firing of guns and -dipping of flags, the little squadron steamed out of the harbour, -threading its way through innumerable icebergs, and passing along the -high snow-clad hills that adorn the southern end of the island of Disco, -proceeded towards the settlement of Ritenbenk, at which we arrived the -following morning. The scenery as we approached the anchorage was truly -magnificent. Lofty hills encompassed us on either hand, down whose steep -sides the water was pouring in rapid cascades, produced by the thawing -of the snow on their summits. How full of life and joy appeared these -bright sparkling streams as they seemed to chase each other in wanton -sport, skipping from rock to crag in their headlong career, until lost -in one large sheet of glistening spray that poured over the edge of a -precipitous cliff into the clear still water at its base! - -Thousands of birds congregate along the inaccessible ledges of these -cliffs, perched in such precise order, and having such a uniformity of -colour, that they resemble regiments of soldiers drawn up in readiness -to defend their fortresses from the attacks of ruthless invaders. But -fresh food was at a premium, and the wretched looms were doomed to -suffer a long assault at the hands of our energetic sportsmen. - -Other and more weighty matters also required our attention. We were to -bid farewell to the "Valorous" on the following morning. And with her we -should lose the last connecting link with home. - -Letters had to be hurriedly finished, and then we had to bid adieu to -one to whose untiring energy the departure of the expedition was due, -who had been mainly instrumental in obtaining the sanction of Government -for its dispatch, and who, leaving the comforts of a home life, had -accompanied us thus far on our journey, sharing our discomforts, but -adding to our knowledge from his rich fund of information, and -enlivening our mess-table with his conversation and presence. - -We felt, whilst he was on board, that we were not quite separated from -the civilized world. His departure made a chasm that it was difficult -for some time to bridge over, but the memory of him lived long amongst -us, and served to recall many a pleasant and happy hour. - -At four o'clock on the morning of the 17th the "Valorous" steamed away -from us on her way to the coal quarries on the north side of the island -of Disco, and, two hours after, the "Discovery" and ourselves put to -sea, having increased the number of our dogs by purchasing several from -the natives at Ritenbenk. - -The scenery in the Waigat, a strait separating the island of Disco from -the mainland of Greenland, is very grand. The channel was rendered -almost impassable from the number of icebergs of every fantastic form -and shape that lay scattered about, and which, although adding -materially to the beauty of the scene, made the passage one of no little -intricacy: indeed we very narrowly escaped losing all our boats on one -side of the ship by shaving a large iceberg a little too closely! - -On one side were the high snow-clad hills of Disco, intersected by deep -and narrow ravines, whilst on the opposite side was a bold and lofty -coast with precipitous headlands ending in needle-shaped peaks and -separated by glaciers and fiords. Passing the beautiful large -discharging glacier of Itivdliarsuk, many minor ones opened to our view -as we sailed slowly past, presenting a panorama such as it would be -impossible to depict faithfully on canvas. - -Several remarkable red patches, apparently of basalt, were observed on -the bare gneiss hills in the vicinity of Point Kardluk, which is noted -for the large quantity of vegetable fossils that have been found there, -and close to the petrified forest of Atanekerdluk. - -Catching sight of the "Valorous" at anchor, busily engaged in procuring -coal, we endeavoured to reach her, for the purpose of sending a few -stray letters that had been inadvertently left behind; but a thick fog -overtaking us, we were very reluctantly compelled to relinquish all idea -of communicating, and had to be satisfied with reading the signal of -"farewell" and "good wishes" that she threw out. It was fortunately -distinguished before the vessels were effectually concealed from each -other by an impervious fog which crept over the surface of the sea, -hiding everything around us, though high above our heads the mountain -tops were clearly to be seen. - -So dense did it become that we were, after a time, obliged to make the -ships fast to icebergs to await a more favourable opportunity of -advancing. - -Whilst attempting to secure the ships an alarming catastrophe occurred. -The boat had been dispatched containing three men with the necessary -implements, such as an ice drill and anchor, for making the vessel fast. - -As soon as the first blow of the drill was delivered the berg, to our -horror, split in two with a loud report, one half with one of our men on -it toppling completely over, whilst the other half swayed rapidly -backwards and forwards. On this latter piece was another of our men, who -was observed with his heels in the air, the violent agitation of the -berg having precipitated him head foremost into a rent or crevasse. The -water alongside was a mass of seething foam and spray; but curious to -relate, the boat with the third man in it was in no way injured. They -were all speedily rescued from their perilous position and brought on -board, sustaining no further harm than that inflicted by a cold bath. -Their escape appeared miraculous. - -By the next morning we were through the Waigat Strait. Much to our -disappointment the weather remained thick, and we were in consequence -unable to gratify ourselves with a sight of the truly grand scenery to -be found at the mouth of the Omenak fiord, which possesses some of the -largest discharging glaciers in Greenland. - -On the night of the 19th both vessels came to an anchor off the Danish -settlement of Proven. - -The harbour, which is small, is formed by two islands. On the western -side of the easternmost of the two is situated the quaintest of quaint -little settlements. It consists of a neat little church, the Governor's -residence, the storehouse, boiling down establishment, smithy, about two -other wooden habitations, and some igdlus, or Eskimo huts. Of course it -boasts its flagstaff and battery of three guns. The Governor, who, in -his endeavour to be civil, had boarded us before anchoring, apologized -for not saluting, saying "that though he had the guns he had no -artillerists." Although it was midnight before we arrived, the -inhabitants were lining the side of the hill as we entered, the white -boots and fur jackets and short trousers of the women affording a very -novel though picturesque scene. - -The dogs on shore, evidently annoyed at being disturbed in their -slumbers, set up a fearful howling, which, being answered by the dogs in -both ships, produced a most unpleasant and discordant concert. The -natives have a saying, when the dogs make this noise, "that they are -holding their parliament." This is hardly flattering to the Greenland -senate! - -During our short stay at this place a rough survey of the harbour was -taken, and a number of scientific observations were made. - -Nothing could be kinder or more friendly than the reception met with -from all on shore. In the Governor's good wife I recognized an old -acquaintance whom I had had the pleasure of meeting on a former occasion -during a cruise in a whaler to these regions. - -Here also we succeeded in engaging the services of Hans Hendrik, an -Eskimo, as dog-driver and hunter. This man had been employed in the same -capacity in all the American expeditions to Smith's Sound, and was an -invaluable acquisition. - -Our men enjoyed themselves every evening during our stay, dancing to -their hearts' content. - -My black retriever, Nellie, was a great object of admiration amongst the -inhabitants, one man especially being very pertinacious in his request -that she might be presented to him. On inquiring to what use he would -put her, I was informed that my faithful companion would be converted -into food for the man's oily-faced family, whilst her beautiful black -curly coat would serve to adorn his wife's person. Nellie, I think, had -some notion of the designs on her life and skin, as in future she always -regarded with disfavour not only the Eskimos themselves, but also their -dogs and everything belonging to them. - -Leaving Proven on the evening of the 21st of July, we arrived on the -same night off a remarkable headland called "Sanderson, his hope." It -was so named by old John Davis, after his friend and patron, Mr. W. -Sanderson, in 1587, and was the extreme northern point reached by him -during his third voyage.[1] - -This prominent and precipitous cliff is a famous place for looms, as -those white-breasted guillemots are termed, which are considered such -rare delicacies on an Arctic table. They are the _Uria Brunnichii_ of -naturalists, and are numerous in sub-Arctic regions. Their favourite -breeding-places are along these terraced cliffs, where they assemble in -large quantities. - -Of course so favourable an opportunity of procuring fresh food was not -to be disregarded. The ships were hove to, and the boats, crammed with -eager sportsmen, dispatched for the purpose of shooting for the "pot." - -Myriads of these birds were congregated along the face of the steep -precipitous cliffs, in some places almost overhanging, which rose -abruptly to an altitude of about a thousand feet. Owing, however, to the -unsteadiness of the boats, caused by the roughness of the sea, our "bag" -did not realize our anticipations. Many of the birds that were shot -remained on the inaccessible ledges of the rocks, and were therefore -lost to us; and many fell into the sea beyond, and were no more seen. - -The midnight sun was shining brightly during this _battue_, and we -returned to the ship, after a couple of hours' sport, the richer by one -hundred and seventy birds, each equal in weight to a fair-sized duck. -For the succeeding three or four days we revelled in "loom soup," "loom -pie," or "roast loom," and looms cooked in every imaginable form. No -matter how they were served up, they were always pronounced to be -delicious. Indeed, one of my messmates went so far as to say that he had -never tasted anything better in his life. In fact, for the purpose of -thoroughly enjoying a good dinner, a trip to the Arctic regions is -indispensable! - -On the following morning we anchored off Upernivik,[2] the most northern -settlement but one in Greenland. It is situated on one of the Woman -Islands, so named by Baffin in 1616. The usual kindness and hospitality -were extended to us here, as at all the other Danish settlements -visited. We also received important information concerning the state of -the ice to the northward, with a tabulated statement of all the -meteorological observations obtained during the previous winter, a study -of which would be of the greatest importance to us. - -In the evening, taking the "Discovery" in tow, we again put to sea, this -time finally bidding farewell to civilization. From henceforth our -energies and our thoughts must turn Polewards. - -As the last glimpse of the little church was shut out from our view, -many a prayer was silently offered to Him in his infinite mercy to -protect and guide us in our endeavours, and to vouchsafe us a safe -return again to home and civilization. - - -FOOTNOTES: - - [1] On his return to England he wrote to his friend, saying, "I have - been in 73 deg., finding the sea all open and forty leagues between land - and land. The passage (the N.W.) is most probable, the execution - easie, as at my coming you shall fully knowe." - - [2] It is sometimes spelt Uppernavik. But Upernivik is the correct - form. See Rink, p. 354. It means spring in the Eskimo language. - Upernivik is in 72 deg. 48' N. The most northern Danish station is - Tasiusak, in 73 deg. 24' N. - - - - -CHAPTER IV. - -MELVILLE BAY AND THE NORTH WATER. - - - "Embark with me, while I new tracts explore, - With flying sails and breezes from the shore. - Not that my song, in such a scanty space, - So large a subject fully can embrace. - Not though I were supplied with iron lungs, - A hundred mouths, filled with as many tongues. - But steer my vessel with a steady hand, - And coast along the shore in sight of land. - Nor will I try thy patience with a train - Of preface, or what ancient poets feign." - - VIRGIL. - -Threading our way through narrow passages between numerous islands that -lay to the eastward of Upernivik, and trusting to the knowledge and -guidance of an Eskimo pilot, we felt at length that we had in reality, -seen the last for some time, of our fellow men, and that our struggle -with the almost insuperable difficulties of the frozen north was about -to commence. - -Preparations for an unsuccessful combat with the ice were made, and -every precaution was adopted necessary to ensure the safety of the men, -in cases of extreme emergency. The boats were prepared for immediate -service, each man having his allotted station, so that little or no -confusion would ensue if the abandonment of the ships should be decided -upon--an event that was by no means improbable. Ice-saw crews were -organized in readiness for cutting a dock, in case such a proceeding -should become necessary for the protection of the vessels. Provisions -and clothes were so arranged along the upper deck that they could easily -and readily be thrown out on the ice at a moment's notice. Knapsacks, -each containing two pairs of blanket wrappers, one pair of hose, one -pair of stockings, one pair of mitts, one pair of drawers, a Welsh wig, -a jersey, a comforter, a pair of moccasins, a towel and small piece of -soap, were packed and placed in some handy position where they could be -reached without delay. The necessary tackles for lifting the screw and -unshipping the rudder were provided: in fact every preparation was made -that could possibly be thought of to guard against accidents and to -promote success in the forthcoming conflict. - -On the morning after leaving Upernivik, on account of a dense fog, it -was determined to anchor off one of the small islands composing a group -through which we were passing, in order to wait for finer weather. - -Our pilot, getting into his kayak, offered to pioneer us into a little -bay with which he was intimately acquainted. Being totally unable to -realize the difference of size between the large unwieldy "Alert" and -his own frail little bark, and probably imagining that where he was able -to go in his tiny boat, we also could do the same, he led us close in to -the land, which, on account of the thick fog, was hidden from our view, -and we soon had the annoyance of finding our ship hard and fast on -shore. Fortunately we were going very slow at the time, so that no -injury was sustained; but we remained immoveable for many hours until -the flood-tide floated us and enabled us once more to proceed. - -The dangers connected with a passage through Melville Bay are now so -well known to all who have taken any interest in Arctic affairs, or who -have devoted any time to the perusal of Arctic literature, that it is -needless for me either to explain or dwell upon them at any length. Many -a well-equipped ship has been caught in the fatal embrace of this bay. -What tales of woe and disaster could its icy waters unfold, coupled, -however, with deeds of heroic daring, endurance, and suffering! - -Captain Nares, determining to avoid the ordinary passage through this -once dreaded bay, the dangers of which in these days of steam have been -so materially lessened, pushed his ships boldly through what is -generally termed the "middle ice." This, at such a late season of the -year, is undoubtedly a wise course; but woe to the unfortunate ship that -at an earlier period should be caught in this moving pack, and be there -detained for thirteen or fourteen months, as the little "Fox" was, under -the command of Sir Leopold McClintock! - -If the pack is composed of loose light ice, such as we found it to be, -rendering a passage through it one of no difficulty, it may also be -presumed that the ice in Melville Bay at the same time would be of the -same consistency, thereby also affording an easy and safe passage -through. - -The reason that the passage by Melville Bay is always taken by the -whalers is the existence of fixed land ice, which is found adhering to -the shores, and in which it is easy to cut a dock for the preservation -of the ship if the heavy pack is forced by wind, or otherwise, towards -it, thereby endangering any vessel that may happen to be between the -two. Directly the pack moves off the vessel is liberated and proceeds on -her voyage. - -It would be very different if the ship was caught in the pack. Then she -would, in all probability, be severely handled, and being beset would -drift to the southward with the ice and thereby lose all the hard-fought -ground gained with so much labour and fatigue. - -One of the most important maxims in ice navigation, which is strictly -followed out by the whalers, is "stick to the land-ice." - -We were certainly extremely fortunate in finding the pack so "loose" as -to give us little trouble or difficulty in making progress. The ice was -of a soft "brashy" nature, apparently only of one year's formation, and -only from one to three feet in thickness. The weather being fine and -calm, advantage was taken of it to steam full speed, for there was no -saying how quickly the ice might pack with even a light breeze. The tow -rope was accordingly cast off, and we proceeded at our highest rate of -speed with the "Discovery" following close at our heels. - -Occasionally our progress would be checked by a stream of ice extending -across the lane of water through which we were steering; but through -these obstructions we bored, or charged them at full speed, and thus -cleared a way. A walrus and a few seals were seen on the ice, but their -capture did not hold out sufficient inducement to detain the ship. - -Very different from the apathy shown on passing these animals was the -excitement exhibited when a bear, a veritable Polar bear, was seen on -the ice. Such a rush for rifles and weapons of all descriptions! It was -the first and only bear seen, and therefore the excitement its presence -caused was natural. Every one appeared to share in it. Bear-skins were -certainly on that day at a premium, for all were eager and anxious to -become the fortunate possessor of such a prize. Master Bruin, however, -did not reciprocate this feeling, and evinced an equal amount of anxiety -to retain his nice warm coat. - -The engines were immediately stopped, and the boats crammed with -volunteer hunters. These landing on the ice, advanced upon their quarry -in skirmishing order, while the ship, steaming round to the opposite -side of the floe, endeavoured to cut off his retreat. All was -ineffectual. Bruin's strategic abilities were of too high an order for -us to cope successfully with him in his own territories, and he escaped. -Many rounds of ammunition, however, were fired at him both from the -party on shore and also by those on board the ship, in the faint hope -that a lucky shot might bring him down. To this day there are many who -seriously believe that he carried away with him a portion of the bullets -they so lavishly expended. So keen were some in the ardour and -excitement of the chase that they rushed on, heedless of the rotten and -treacherous nature of the ice, until an immersion in the cold water -brought them to a sense of their danger and compelled them to seek -refuge on board the ship, wet, cold, and uncomfortable. Many little -rotges (_Alca alle_) were flitting about from the ice to the water, and -the beautiful ivory gull (_Larus eburneus_) was also seen for the first -time. - -[Illustration: POLAR BEARS.] - -In thirty-four hours from first encountering the ice we reached the -North Water, and our troubles were for a time at an end. It was an -unprecedented passage. Only seventy hours from Upernivik to Cape York! - -Melville Bay, with all its terrors, was behind us; a beautifully smooth -unruffled sea, devoid of all ice, was in front; everything pointed to -success, and the hearts of all in the expedition beat high with joy and -delight at the speedy prospect of attaining the utmost realization of -their hopes. Large icebergs were around us in every direction; but what -cared we then for icebergs? We had continuous day; the North Water had -been reached; our way lay northwards. In a few short days the entrance -of Smith Sound would be reached, the threshold of the unknown region -crossed, and then onwards to--where? We did not dare to anticipate, but -we felt that the first step towards success had been gained, and that we -had commenced our real work under most propitious circumstances. We -would not predict, but we determined to deserve, success. - -It was, for many reasons, a matter of congratulation that this "North -Water" had been so speedily and so successfully reached. Instead of only -two or three weeks of the navigable season being available for us to -penetrate the hidden mysteries of Smith Sound, owing to our rapid -passage, we could reckon upon a clear month or five weeks before being -compelled to secure our ship in winter quarters; besides which, our fuel -had been very materially saved by this quick run, and this in itself, to -ships situated as we were, was no unimportant matter. - -On reaching the neighbourhood of Cape York, the "Discovery" was ordered -to proceed shorewards for the purpose of communicating with the natives -(the Arctic Highlanders of Sir John Ross), in the hope of inducing one -of their number, a brother-in-law of Hans, to accompany the expedition; -the "Alert" in the mean time shaping a course to the Cary Islands, at -which latter place the "Discovery" was ordered to rejoin us. - -The scenery, as we steamed along at a distance of about two miles from -the shore, was most interesting. The hills along the coast were entirely -clad with snow, whilst the long undulating ranges, as they receded far -back to the horizon, appeared to be buried under the everlasting _mer de -glace_. Numerous glaciers of various sizes, some of them being -discharging ones, rolled down to the water's edge in one vast icy sheet. -The width of one of these, the Petowik Glacier, is fully seven miles. -Fragments from these lay scattered along the coast in every direction, -whilst we had to thread our way through clusters of huge bergs of every -form and size. Passing the crimson cliffs of Beverley, we were able to -distinguish, in a few small patches, the so-called coloured snow whence -the name originates; but not in the highly imaginative mass of bright -colour depicted by Sir John Ross, in his interesting illustrated work -describing his voyage to Baffin Bay. The question of the nature of this -colouring matter on snow has now been definitely set at rest. It is an -alga, the _Protococcus nivalis_. - -We did not reach the Cary Islands so soon as we expected, in consequence -of experiencing a strong S.E. current that had not been anticipated. A -sudden rise of temperature of the surface water naturally led us to -suppose that it must be due to the absence of ice, which, raising our -spirits, made us regard with displeasure any hindrance to our progress. - -Arriving off the Cary group early on the morning of the 27th, we were -detained for a few hours landing a boat with a large depot of -provisions, sufficient to sustain 60 men for two months, or 120 men for -one month. The depot was placed on the easternmost island, and a large -cairn was erected on the highest and most prominent point. Here also -were deposited the last home letters which our friends were destined to -receive until after our own arrival in England. - -The depot was established as a safeguard for us to fall back upon in -case of any accident happening to our vessels in Smith Sound. From this -position it was expected that a party duly provisioned would have little -difficulty in reaching the northern Greenland settlements, or at any -rate the simple but hospitable natives of Cape York, who would, it was -anticipated, afford us protection and assistance. This duty having been -accomplished, and having been rejoined by our consort, the northward -course was resumed.[1] - -Crossing over to the eastward we steamed along on that beautifully clear -sunny morning within a short distance of the western shores of -Greenland. With the exception of icebergs, not a speck of ice was to be -seen to disturb the smooth glassy surface of the sea. Passing the mouth -of Whale Sound we made rapid progress northwards, steering between -Northumberland and Hakluyt Islands, almost under their steep, -precipitous, and in some places overhanging cliffs; on past Murchison -Sound with the Crystal Palace glacier ahead, whilst on our port bow was -easily discernible the opposite coast of Ellesmere Land, with the Prince -of Wales Mountains, covered with snow or ice, rising above the western -horizon. - -It was indeed a glorious sight as we passed close to this little known -land, opening out, as we proceeded, its many and large glaciers -glittering white and radiant in the sunshine, growing, as it were, out -of the clouds and rolling down grandly towards the sea, until the opaque -masses plunged sullenly and silently into the deep blue water. - -Animal life, so far as the feathered tribes were concerned, appeared in -abundance. The lively little rotges or little auks (_Alca alle_) were -seen in frequent clusters diving quickly under water as the ship -approached. Looms (_Uria Brunnichii_), dovekies (_Uria grylle_), and -king-ducks (_Somateria spectabilis_), alarmed at our appearance, rose in -long flights, and circled around us uttering their discordant cries. The -glaucous gull and the pretty kittiwake (_Larus tridactylus_) soared -above our heads, whilst occasionally a graceful ivory gull (_Larus -eburneus_) flapped its way leisurely along, its snowy wings contrasting -with the background of clear blue sky. Here and there, on small -fragments of floating ice, were seen huge walruses basking in the golden -sunshine. Amid such scenes, which to be realized must be seen, the two -vessels wended their way towards the entrance of Smith Sound, all elated -with the fair prospect that was before them and hopeful for the future. - -At half-past seven on the morning of the 28th of July both ships came to -an anchor in Hartstene Bay, more commonly known as Port Foulke, the -harbour in which Dr. Hayes wintered in 1860. - - -FOOTNOTE: - - [1] The Cary Islands consist of a group of eight islands, besides - small rocks or islets, and are situated in Baffin Bay, in lat. 76 deg. - 45' N. They vary in size from two and a half miles in diameter - downwards. They are composed of syenitic and porphyritic granite, - overlaid in places with gneiss. They rise to a height of about 400 - feet above the level of the sea, and possess a luxuriant vegetation, - at least for these regions. They are much frequented as breeding - places by the eider-ducks and looms. - - - - -CHAPTER V. - -SMITH SOUND. - - - "Now far he sweeps, where scarce a summer smiles, - On Behring's rocks, or Greenland's naked isles. - Cold on his midnight watch the breezes blow, - From wastes that slumber in eternal snow, - And waft across the waves' tumultuous roar - The wolf's long howl from Oonalaska's shore." - - CAMPBELL. - -No sooner were the ships secured and breakfast discussed, than there was -a regular rush for the shore. Some went for a scramble over the -neighbouring glacier, named by Dr. Kane, "My brother John's glacier;" -some went to collect specimens; others to take various scientific -observations; and others to hunt and shoot--this spot having been found -wonderfully prolific of game, more especially of reindeer, during Dr. -Hayes's stay. No signs of any inhabitants were visible. This surprised -us, as we were fully expecting to meet the natives of the village of -Etah, situated only a couple of miles from the anchorage. A visit to the -village during the course of the day proved the huts to be standing, but -quite deserted. Traces of their having been recently inhabited were -manifest, and portions of seal and walrus meat were discovered in -_caches_, as if the migration was only temporary and a return was -meditated. No other signs, however, of any living human being were -found. - -Leaving to others the exploration of the country in the immediate -vicinity of the harbour, Captain Nares and myself started, in one of the -whale-boats, with four men, for the purpose of visiting Life-boat Cove, -where some of the officers and crew of the "Polaris" spent their second -winter, 1872-3, and also to search for an iron boat on Littleton Island, -said to have been left there by Dr. Hayes in 1860. - -Sailing round Sunrise Point, we encountered a fresh northerly wind dead -in our teeth, against which, under oars, we made but slow progress, -whilst the cold spray flew aft into our faces where it almost froze. -After about five hours' hard pulling Life-boat Cove was reached, and -very glad we all were to get on shore and stretch our legs and restore -the circulation of our blood. - -Immediately on landing we met with traces of the late occupants. These -consisted of a large cairn--which, however, had been demolished by -others previous to our arrival, probably by the searching expedition -sent out in the "Tigress" in 1873--a basket lined with tin, and a trunk, -neither of which contained anything of importance; indeed, their -contents and the strong odour pervading them convinced us that they were -now the property of Eskimos. Strolling on a little further, a boat was -seen, which, although somewhat of European shape, appeared to be of -Eskimo construction, as it was simply a framework covered with skins; -yet it was undoubtedly built under a white man's superintendence. - -Continuing to advance until we reached the western extreme of the spit -of land on which we had landed, we conjectured, from the amount of -_debris_ by which we were surrounded, although no remains of a house -were visible, that we were on the site of the Americans' winter -quarters. Trunks, boxes, stoves, pieces of wood, gun-barrels, and odds -and ends of all descriptions lay strewed about over an area of half a -square mile--a desolate scene of ruin and misery! - -Some of the boxes were marked with the names of their previous owners, -and contained, amongst other things, books, principally relating to the -Arctic regions. One trunk contained a few small articles of female -apparel, such as a lace collar and black veil, and some faded ribbons; -souvenirs from some fair damsel at home, which had probably, from the -thoughts their presence created, beguiled many a long and lonely hour -during the monotonous winter night. Numerous cairns and _caches_, under -which were deposited lumps of seal blubber, led us to suppose that the -natives intended returning, especially with such a mine of wealth to -attract them as an abundance of wood and iron, so invaluable to an -Eskimo. - -Two other boats were also found, constructed in the same rude manner as -the first. On one was painted, in good large letters, the word MAUMOKPO; -though what it meant we were at a loss to conceive, but concluded it was -an Icelandic name. - -Two Casella thermometers, marked as low as 130 deg. below zero, were also -picked up in perfect order. It is to be regretted that these were not -self-registering maximum and minimum thermometers, as it would have been -most interesting to have ascertained the greatest amount of heat and -cold at this spot during a period of more than two years. - -Collecting everything that we considered of the least value, such as -books and instruments, for the purpose of returning them to the United -States Government, and taking possession of a couple of boats, which we -thought would prove useful at some of our depots, we embarked and -proceeded towards Littleton Island, with our prizes in tow. Diligent -search was made for the pendulum said to have been left by the "Polaris" -people, but without success: also for the box chronometers and transit -instrument, but with a like result. We could only come to the conclusion -that, if these articles had been left there, somebody had been before -us. Every cairn and _cache_ was thoroughly examined, and so was every -nook and crannie within a radius of half a mile from where we imagined -the house had originally stood. A chronometer-box was picked up, but -empty. - -On landing at Littleton Island a careful search was instituted for -Hayes's boat, but, although we made the complete circuit of the island, -we failed to discover any traces of it whatever. At the south-west end -we erected a cairn on the highest hill, about five or six hundred feet -above the level of the sea, and obtained a round of angles with the -theodolite. The view from the top of this hill was very cheering. Cape -Sabine was distinctly visible; whilst farther to the northward could be -seen the land about Cape Fraser, with _no signs of ice_! We were, -however, too wary to indulge to excess in hopeful anticipations, knowing -full well the vagaries of our capricious enemy, the ice; but still such -a scene could not but tend to cheer and exhilarate, and send us back to -our ship with light and buoyant hearts. - -It was past midnight before we reached the "Alert." Our sportsmen, we -found, had been unsuccessful in their endeavours to shoot any reindeer; -one, however, fell to the rifle of an officer of the "Discovery." Very -few were seen, and those so wild as to render an approach within range -no easy matter. Several ducks and a few hares, however, were obtained. - -Leaving Port Foulke on the following morning, we crossed over to the -west side, and erected a large cairn on the summit of Cape Isabella, -about one thousand feet above the level of the sea. The ascent of this -headland was both arduous and dangerous. The face of the cliff was very -precipitous, and it was only by a zig-zag course that it could be -effected. At one moment the way led over loose shingle, that gave way -under the feet at every step; at another over a broad patch of frozen -snow, one false step on whose slippery surface would precipitate one -many hundred feet below; and at another we were clinging desperately -with hands and feet to the hard, smooth, syenitic granite rocks, of -which this cape is composed. Very thankful were we when the summit was -reached; but much more so when we found ourselves again at its base, -sound in wind and limb. To add to the difficulties, there was a high -wind and dense snowstorm. - -At a less high elevation, and in a secure niche amongst the rocks, were -deposited an empty cask and about one hundred and fifty pounds of -preserved beef. The cask was intended for the reception of any letters -that might be brought up by a Government ship in the following year, or -by any enterprising and adventurous whaling captain who should penetrate -so far in order to bring us news. The provisions were left as a small -depot for any sledging party that might be dispatched to the southward. -The site was marked by a small cairn. Records were left at each of these -cairns detailing the movements and the prospects of the expedition, -together with instructions regarding our letters, should any be brought -thus far. - -Some beautiful little yellow poppies were gathered on the slopes and -crests of the hill, whilst the draba and saxifrage were found growing in -profusion. - -The navigation of these icy seas is most uncertain! Within twenty-four -hours of the time that, from the summit of Littleton Island, we had been -cheered by the view of an apparently open sea free of ice, and extending -in our imagination for miles to the northward, we were battling with the -pack, consisting of large floes and loose broken-up fields, that -extended on both sides of us and as far north as we could see. From this -period our troubles commenced; from this date our progress was one -endless and unceasing struggle with the ice: ever on the watch, and -never allowing a favourable opportunity to pass unheeded. - -Shortly after leaving Cape Isabella the ice was observed stretching -across Baird Inlet--the fixed land ice with loose detached streams. As -we proceeded more ice was seen, which by degrees completely surrounded -us, and we only succeeded, after much boring and charging, in forcing a -way through, and into a well-protected little harbour to the southward -of Cape Sabine. This bay was formed by a deep indentation in the land -having a long jutting-out spit to the S.E. which acted as a famous -breakwater, and was protected seawards by Brevoort Island. Here we were -detained for five days, although several attempts were made to proceed, -which resulted in one instance in a hopeless besetment in the ice for -some hours. The pack was impenetrable; our only hope was to wait -patiently for a strong wind to open out a passage. The place was in -consequence called "Bide-a-wee" Harbour, subsequently changed to Payer -Harbour, after the distinguished Austrian Arctic explorer of that name. - -During our detention the time of the officers was not unprofitably -spent. A rough survey of the place was made, its position was correctly -ascertained, a series of magnetic observations were obtained, and long -walks were taken in the neighbourhood, during which a large and rich -collection was made in the interests of geology and botany. No game of -any description was seen. Traces of Eskimo were discovered, but -evidently of an ancient date. They consisted of the remains of igdlus or -huts, also some bone spear-heads, and the runners and cross-bars of a -sledge.[1] Tidal observations were also taken in the harbour. - -Here also, it may be said, we received our first lessons in the art of -sledging; for, wishing to be initiated into its mysteries, a party, -consisting of four officers and five men dragging one of our large -twenty-feet ice boats on a sledge, started to travel over the pack. Our -main object was of course to derive some practical experience in this -all-important mode of Arctic exploration, and in this, I think, we -succeeded. - -We found the ice exceedingly hummocky, with narrow water spaces between, -_just_ too broad to admit of our jumping over, yet not sufficiently -wide to launch the boat into. So rough was the road that at one time the -bows of the boat would be seen rising almost perpendicularly in the air, -whilst all hands were engaged in long-standing pulls on the drag-ropes -to the tune of "one, two, three, haul;" at another time the sledge would -come down the side of a hummock with such rapidity as to give us hardly -time to spring out of the way to avoid the sledge and boat coming over -us, and many were the falls in consequence. It was, however, rare fun. -Once while launching the boat into a pool of water she nearly capsized; -as it was she half filled, and everything inside--provisions, clothes, -instruments, guns, and ammunition--was thoroughly saturated. A gold -watch that happened to be in a coat pocket was not improved by its -immersion. - -Another source of amusement during our stay in this harbour was chasing -"unies," as narwhals are invariably called by the whalers; but, although -a good deal of patience and perseverance was displayed in attempts to -harpoon them, these qualities were never rewarded, and the boats always -returned unsuccessful from their pursuit. - -Our little check in this harbour produced a slight despondency in those -who, for the previous few days, had been most sanguine of pushing on. -This was always alluded to in the ward-room as the depression of the -social barometer, and was for the future daily registered! - -On the morning of the 4th of August, a southerly gale having blown all -the previous night, a channel of open water was visible as far as Cape -Sabine. This was an opportunity not to be lost. Accordingly, at 4 A.M., -the anchors were weighed, and, before a fresh but bitter cold wind, both -ships made sail, and succeeded, after having made so many futile -attempts, in rounding the Cape. Bearing away to the westward we steered -up Hayes Sound, keeping close in to the land, the grounded icebergs -giving us timely notice of shoal water. At noon, opening a perfectly -land-locked bay, and the ice being so closely packed ahead as to defy -farther progress, the vessels were steered for the entrance, and we soon -found ourselves in a beautiful inlet enclosed by high land, but bounded -on one side by one of the grandest sights it is possible to behold: two -enormous glaciers coming from different directions, but converging at -their termination. They reminded us of two huge giants silently -attempting to push and force each other away. - -It was indeed a noble sight, and filled us with impatient curiosity for -the moment when we could land and indulge in a closer inspection. - -Accordingly, the anchors were no sooner let go than several started for -the purpose of paying it a visit. Landing abreast of the ship, we had -rather a rough and tumble sort of a scramble over loose masses of -gneiss, until we emerged on the banks of the bed of the glacier--that -is, the bed formed by the water running from the glacier during the -summer thaws. The walking was most laborious, at one moment through a -wet swampy bog, and at another over rough sharp-pointed stones. - -The vegetation appeared luxuriant, and we found the traces of musk-oxen, -reindeer, wolves, foxes, and hares in abundance; but, although we were -provided with guns, we failed to secure any game, for the simple reason -that we saw none. But the traces of musk-oxen were very fresh, and -several horns of the reindeer were picked up. After a tedious walk of -about four or five miles we arrived at the glacier--the stupendous and -sublime work of ages. How insignificant and despicable did we appear in -comparison to this gigantic creation of Nature! I can compare it to -nothing except, perhaps, a frozen Niagara! The left-hand glacier was -rounded off, like a huge icy wave to its end, whilst it receded from our -view in long milky undulations until lost in the clouds. The right-hand -one--the lateral and terminal sides of which were quite precipitous--was -pressing against its neighbour until it had raised a slight ridge -between the two. We were naturally desirous of ascending one or both of -these glaciers, but time would not admit of such an undertaking, and we -were therefore compelled to content ourselves by standing upon a small -projection of each glacier, so as to be able to say that we had been on -them. - -That Eskimos had visited this locality was certain; for we discovered on -our way out the site of an old settlement, and on the way back we -observed two large cairns that had evidently been used as _caches_. - -Alexandra Bay and Twin Glacier Valley, as they were henceforth -designated, were the nearest approach to an Arctic paradise that we saw -during our sojourn in the Polar Regions. A sheltered and well-protected -harbour, with a locality abounding in game of various descriptions, are -of such importance that it is impossible to prize them too highly. They -should be the first and grand objects to be taken into consideration -whilst selecting a spot for winter quarters. - -Although we were not fortunate in obtaining game during our stay of only -a few hours in this interesting neighbourhood, I have not the slightest -doubt that, had we penetrated a little farther into the interior, or had -we remained here a day or two longer, we should have been rewarded by an -ample supply, the traces that we observed being both numerous and -recent. - -From tidal observations made during our brief stay in this harbour, we -found that the flood tide in Hayes Sound came from the eastward, but -that the ebb coming from the westward was the strongest. Whether Hayes -Sound was a strait opening out to the westward or only a deep inlet was, -and remains, a matter of uncertainty. - - -FOOTNOTE: - - [1] The fact of one of these spear-heads being tipped with iron, - although they all bear the semblance of great age, would lead one to - suppose that the tribe by whom it was left must have had some - intercourse with Europeans, unless meteoric iron was used. This would - be a very interesting question to decide. - - - - -CHAPTER VI. - -STRUGGLES WITH THE ICE. - - - "On those great waters now I am, - Of which I have been told, - That whosoever hither came - Should wonders there behold. - - "Trim thou the sails, and let good speed - Accompany our haste; - Sound thou the channels at our need, - And anchor for us cast. - - "A fit and favourable wind - To further us provide, - And let it wait on us behind, - Or lackey by our side." - - GEORGE WITHER. - -The morning following our arrival in Alexandra Harbour saw us again -battling with the ice in Hayes Sound, having been deluded into leaving -our comfortable snug quarters by the report that the pack had drifted to -the eastward, leaving a navigable channel extending to the north. The -report was fallacious, but we succeeded in threading our way to the N.W. -for about twenty miles, when both ships were helplessly beset, with but -little hope of extrication without a shift of wind. - -Many broad glaciers were in view, winding their long white snaky -lengths between the hills, some of which could be traced into the -interior for ten or twelve miles, or until lost in illimitable space. - -In twenty-four hours, the ice slackening enabled us to bore a way -through, eventually emerging into a broad stream of water. How sudden -and wonderful are the changes in these regions! From being closely -beset, a couple of hours saw us in an apparently open sea with _no ice_ -in sight, and bowling along before a fresh southerly gale at the rate of -seven knots. Social barometer very high! In the morning not a spoonful -of water to be seen in any direction, in the evening not a vestige of -ice! - -Passing close to the western shore we were able to confirm our views -regarding the Henry and Bache Islands of Hayes. They are undoubtedly -connected, and therefore not islands; but whether they were also -connected with the mainland we were not able to determine. In all -probability the supposed islands are a peninsula, apparently of -sandstone formation overlying trap, different to the granitic formation -of the southern shore of the strait. The land appeared quite bare of -vegetation, and bore a strong resemblance to the Silurian limestone -formation of the land about Prince Regent Inlet, showing stratifications -dipping to the northward at an angle of about 6 deg.. - -It does not do to indulge too freely in vain hopes in these regions. A -period of eight hours was sufficient to cause our hopeful anticipations -of a grand run to the northward to be "considerably eased down;" for in -that time we were again stopped by the ice, and compelled to make fast -to a floe, until the pack opened sufficiently to allow us to proceed. -During the run we passed some very heavy floes--heavier than anything -we had hitherto met, and quite sufficient in themselves to crush any -unfortunate ship that should happen to get nipped between two of them. - -Off Albert Head great excitement was caused by the floe, to which both -ships were secured, being driven towards a large grounded iceberg. To be -squeezed between the two would be fatal. Our destruction seemed -inevitable. Yet we on board were helpless to avert the catastrophe. All -that we could do was to prepare for a severe nip: unship the rudder, and -lift the screw, and having taken every precaution to ensure the safety -of the crew, in the event of the ship's demolition, we could only look -on, and in silence witness, as we thought, the irresistible and -destroying powers of the Ice-King. - -The "Discovery" was at first in the most critical position, but a slight -swerving of the floe relieved her from any immediate danger, whilst the -same movement of the ice intensified our own. - -Nearer and more swiftly were we hurried towards the grim and motionless -berg, up whose sides the floe, as it came into contact with it, was seen -to be literally walking and forcing its way, crumbling and falling into -shapeless masses at its base. - -Escape appeared impossible. It seemed hard at the very commencement of -our voyage thus to lose our ship, and with it all hopes of success. -Suddenly, when our fate seemed almost decided, the berg turned slightly, -splitting up the floe to which we were secured and sending us clear. It -was a narrow shave, and although we suffered a slight nip, no material -damage was sustained. - -Being myself too fully occupied with the work on deck, one of my -messmates kindly packed a few of my valuables together, ready to take -away in case of having to abandon the ship. On going below after the -ship had been secured, I found carefully packed in a haversack my -journals, Bible and Prayer-Book, a few photographs, and three boxes of -sardines! - -It must not be supposed that we passed in idleness those days that we -were beset in the ice and unable to advance. As a rule our time was more -fully occupied then than when we had leads of water in which we could -proceed. Steam had to be kept ready for any sudden emergency, and a -constant watch had to be kept on every movement of the pack. Frequently -had the ice anchors to be tripped and the vessel moved, in order to -avoid bergs or floes closing in upon and nipping us. Occasionally, when -the pack opened, or appeared what we called "slack," we would attempt to -bore through; but as this invariably entailed a large consumption of -fuel, and gave very little result, it was not resorted to more than was -absolutely necessary. Every opening in the ice was taken advantage of, -by which we slowly but surely made progress northwards. - -The crow's-nest was never deserted. In it Captain Nares might almost be -said to live, rarely coming on deck even for his meals; as for a night's -rest, such a thing to him was quite unknown. From the "nest" the motions -of the ice were closely scrutinized, the tides and currents were -studied, and the influence of the wind on the pack ascertained. No -opportunity was ever lost, and it was entirely due to this unceasing -watchfulness that the expedition succeeded in advancing, although it was -only inch by inch. - -Victoria Head was reached on the morning of the 8th of August, but at -the expense of damaged rudder-heads to both ships, caused by the -constant backing into the ice whilst engaged in charging and breaking -through slight streams that offered impediments to our advance. A -detention here enabled us to pay the shore a visit. Great difficulty was -experienced in landing on account of the ice-foot adhering to the land, -which resembled a perpendicular frozen wall rising to the height of -about twelve feet. Indeed it was more overhanging than perpendicular, as -the action of the water had considerably undermined its base and -therefore rendered it almost inaccessible. By the aid of a long -boat-hook staff and some rope we succeeded in clambering up, at the -expense of bruised hands, the jagged surface of the ice cutting like -penknives. This proceeding was not unattended by a certain amount of -danger, for had the ice given way we should have been precipitated into -the boat, in which case we should have been extremely lucky to have -escaped without a fractured bone or limb. - -The loose and rugged slabs of slaty limestone of which the hills were -composed made the walking very arduous, added to which a thick fog and -snowstorm that overtook us rendered our climb unprofitable so far as -ascertaining the nature of the ice to seaward and the prospect of -pushing on were concerned. The steep cliffs surrounding this prominent -headland are wasted and worn by the combined effects of snow and -weather, and present the same "battlemented" appearance so common to the -Silurian limestone formation of the cliffs about Prince Regent Inlet and -Lancaster Sound. A few fossils were collected, but, with the exception -of some sprigs of the stunted willow and a single tuft of saxifrage, -the land was devoid of all vegetation. Deep ravines stretched away into -the interior, entirely free from both snow and ice. Traces of former -inhabitants were discovered along the beach, consisting of the site of -an Eskimo settlement and a few small cairns or fox-traps. - -Hitherto the traces of these interesting tribes have been continuous -along the western side of Smith Sound, and tend, in my opinion, to prove -conclusively that the Eskimos were in former days far more numerous than -they are at the present time. What has become of them? The solution of -this important ethnological question would be of the greatest interest. -Have they gradually died out? or have they migrated farther south, and -are now represented by the "Arctic Highlanders," and by tribes settled -on both sides of Lancaster Sound who are frequently visited by our -whalers? - -It is certain that at some remote time there was a movement of Eskimo -tribes from Asia towards Greenland in these high latitudes, for traces -of their encampments have been found along the shores of the Parry group -from Melville Island to Lancaster Sound, where they are still living in -Dundas Harbour and in Admiralty Inlet. The late Admiral Sherard Osborn -and my cousin, Mr. Clements Markham, paid great attention to this -subject during the Arctic Expedition of 1850-51, and prepared a -descriptive list of all the Eskimo vestiges along the whole length of -the Parry group.[1] We now traced similar remains up the western side -of the channels leading north from Smith Sound, at Cape Sabine, on the -shores of Buchanan Strait, on Norman Lockyer Island, on Capes Hilgard, -Louis Napoleon, Hayes, and Fraser, at Radmore Harbour, and Bellot -Island. The most northern point where human remains were discovered was -at Cape Beechey, in 81 deg. 54' N. Here our naturalist found the framework -of a large wooden sledge, a stone lamp, and a snow scraper made of -walrus tusk. Beyond this point there was no sign of any human being -having preceded us. This is the utmost northern known limit of Eskimo -wandering, and here they appear to have crossed the strait, and to have -made their way southward on the Greenland side. The most northern -permanent human habitation in the world is now at Etah, near Port -Foulke, and, under present climatic conditions, it would be impossible -even for the Etah Eskimo to exist at Cape Beechey, in 81 deg. 54' N., -whither their ancestors must have wandered in remote times. There is -much yet to learn respecting these marvellous wanderings along the -Arctic shores; and our expedition has certainly thrown considerable new -light on the question. We have fixed the most northern limit of the -Eskimo migrations, and have established the fact that they did not come -from the north down Smith Sound, but merely wandered round its shores -until the palaeocrystic floes in Robeson Channel made them despair of -finding there the means of supporting life. We have also proved that the -people seen by Captain Clavering on the east coast of Greenland in 1823 -could not have come round its northern extreme, but that they had found -their way to the neighbourhood of the Pendulum Islands from Cape -Farewell. They are useful contributions towards the final solution of a -very important ethnological question, which, however, cannot be fully -and conclusively settled until all the unknown parts of the Polar area -have been explored. - - -FOOTNOTE: - - [1] See the "Selection of Papers on Arctic Geography and Ethnology," - printed for the use of the Expedition by the Royal Geographical - Society, p. 163. - - - - -CHAPTER VII. - -WALRUS HUNT.--DOG DRIVING. - - - "So Zembla's rocks, the beauteous work of frost, - Rise white in air, and glitter o'er the coast; - Pale suns, unfelt, at distance roll away, - And on the impassive ice the lightnings play; - Eternal snows the growing mass supply, - Till the bright mountains prop the incumbent sky: - As Atlas fixed, each hoary pile appears, - The gathered winter of a thousand years." - - POPE. - -During the remainder of the navigable season, I propose to present the -narrative of the voyage in the form of a diary, giving the extracts as -they were written down at the time, when the events they record were -fresh in my memory. - -_Sunday, August 8th._--Snow fell very heavily during the forenoon, -completely covering the surrounding hills, and lying several inches deep -on our deck. Clearing up in the afternoon we found ourselves completely -beset by the ice and drifting shorewards. Steam was resorted to and -every effort made to reach a narrow lane of water, only a hundred yards -distant, but without success. At four o'clock the ship experienced a -slight nip, the ice piling up as high as our main chains, but -fortunately for us it was of too soft a nature to do much damage. Half -an hour afterwards the nip eased and the pack commenced to open, showing -broad lanes of water. This sudden slackening of the ice was due to the -total cessation of wind. We soon extricated ourselves from our -unpleasant situation, and lay in eager readiness to take advantage of -any opportunity of advancing that might offer itself. - -11.30 P.M.--The ways of ice are indeed inscrutable! Five hours ago -Grinnell Land loomed in the distance, and we had little prospect of -reaching it for some time. Now we are actually made fast to the land-ice -in Franklin Pierce Bay on the southern shore of Grinnell Land! - -We esteem ourselves particularly fortunate in having reached thus far. -Cape Fraser is not far distant, and this appears to be our Rubicon. Once -passed, fewer difficulties are anticipated. We may very fairly reason -that to the northward of this promontory will be found a "North Water" -similar to the one north of Baffin Bay, the ice remaining in the broad -part of Smith Sound like the middle pack in Baffin Bay and Davis -Straits. - -In the latitude of Cape Fraser Kane reported what he called an open -Polar Sea, Hayes the same, whilst the "Polaris" actually navigated for -some distance this "North Water." Why-should we find it different? - -The ice opened this afternoon in a miraculous manner, in one long lead -from land to land, sufficiently wide for us to pass through; and then, -as if it had opened expressly for us, closed again, and with such -rapidity that our consort, who was following in our wake, having lagged -a little behind, was caught and remained beset for some time; -eventually, however, boring through and rejoining us. - -_August 9th._--We succeeded this morning in pushing on for three or four -miles, when, being completely stopped by the ice, we were again -compelled to make fast. In consequence of the heavy fall of snow -yesterday, the surface of the water was coated with a soft sludgy -substance, half ice and half snow, which greatly impeded our progress. - -The statement made by Dr. Hayes in his interesting work, that "along the -entire coast of Grinnell Land no glacier appears," is slightly -inaccurate; for at the head of Franklin Pierce Bay two tolerably large -glaciers are situated, whilst another was seen a few miles to the -westward on the same coast. Doubtless Dr. Hayes intended to say -_discharging_ glaciers, in which case he would, I think, be nearly -correct. - -For three days were we detained, without the ice allowing us the -slightest chance of moving, during which time a complete series of -magnetic observations was obtained on the floe, the inclination of the -needle being as much as 85 deg. 34'. Both the dredge and trawl were also put -into requisition and with good results. Amongst the many zoological -curiosities brought to the surface, from a depth of fifteen fathoms, -were some crinoids. These echinoderms are very rare, few specimens -having been met with, until the deep-sea dredgings of the "Challenger" -brought them more into notice. - -A small island, since called Norman Lockyer Island after the -distinguished astronomer of that name, was visited, and its highest -eminence ascended for the purpose of watching the movements of the pack. -Landing on the ice-foot that fringed the shore, we stepped on to a long -shaly beach that rose in well-defined and regular terraces to at least -two hundred feet above the level of the sea, showing the different tidal -marks, and illustrating clearly the gradual upheaval of the land. -Numerous traces of Eskimo were discovered on this small and remote -island, consisting of the sites of several encampments, and a bone -harpoon point, all apparently of very ancient date. The highest part of -the island is from five to six hundred feet above the sea. It is of -limestone formation, and on several of the rocks, especially those at -its summit, distinct glacial marks were detected. Vegetation was scanty, -although here and there the poppy, saxifrage, and willow could be seen -cropping up between the stones. - -Here too we succeeded in harpooning a couple of walruses. Three of these -large animals were observed on a piece of ice, their large ungainly -forms stretched out, lazily enjoying their _siesta_. Volunteers were not -wanting for the purpose of attempting their capture; but as an -indiscriminate attack would only lead to failure, it was determined to -despatch one of the whale boats, specially fitted with a harpoon gun, -and all the necessary implements and gear for securing these animals, in -order to effect in a more organized and skilful manner the object we had -in view. - -Great difficulty was experienced in approaching our prey, as the boat -had to be hauled over loose fragments of ice, and pushed through a -sludgy consistency of soft ice, snow, and water, in which the oars were -useless; so that it was feared the unavoidable noise would disturb and -frighten them away. At length, after much trouble and no little -exertion, we succeeded in getting within about eight yards, so sound -was their repose, without exciting any suspicion in their minds that -danger was lurking in their vicinity. At that distance, however, they -evinced a degree of restlessness, by lifting their shaggy heads and -uttering jerky spasmodic snorts, that showed us only too plainly a -retreat was meditated. - -[Illustration: WALRUSES.] - -Selecting the largest of the three as his victim, our harpooner -carefully laid his gun. A moment of breathless suspense followed, to be -relieved by the report of the gun, a roar of pain and rage, and the -disappearance in the water of the three walruses, while the piece of -ice, on which a moment before they had been reposing, was covered with -blood, convincing us that our shaft had taken effect. If any further -proof was required in corroboration of this fact, a tugging at the line -and the sudden moving of the boat was sufficient. Lances and rifles were -quickly seized; for these animals, when wounded and maddened by pain, -are ugly and dangerous customers, and have frequently been known to rip -the planks out of a boat with their formidable tusks, and thus -seriously endanger the lives of the crew. We had not long to wait; a -disturbance in the water close alongside denoted that our victim was -coming to the surface. An instant after, his bearded face with every -expression of infuriated rage and demoniacal hate, his fiery eyes -glaring with vengeance, appeared, and was immediately saluted with two -or three rifle bullets. This warm reception served only to incense and -irritate him, and he tried hard to wreak his vengeance on the boat; but -his enemies were too powerful, and with the united aid of bullets and -lance thrusts the unwieldy beast was forced to succumb to the superior -power of his human antagonists. Towing the great carcase back to the -ship, it was hauled up on the floe, and quickly _flinched_.[1] The -blubber and flesh were packed in barrels, making a very welcome addition -to the small amount of food that we had on board for our dogs. - -Another walrus was harpooned on the following day, and these were the -only two captured by the expedition during their stay in the Arctic -regions. Walrus steaks, from this date, were for some time in great -demand, whilst the liver was pronounced to be perfectly excellent, and -even superior to pig's fry! - -As a rule these animals are exceedingly difficult to kill, for in -addition to their enormously thick skulls and coating of almost -impenetrable skin and blubber, they are excessively tenacious of life. A -rifle bullet, although a walrus may eventually die of the wound, is more -than useless, as it will effectually scare him away, and thus all chance -of securing him is lost. The only sure way of succeeding in their -capture is by the use of the harpoon, and this weapon of course is only -available at short distances. - -During the temporary delays of the ships in the ice, amusement was not -forgotten, and we often had rare fun. It is a very important point in an -Arctic expedition to keep the men constantly employed and interested, -otherwise they would, more especially when their onward progress was -checked, be subject to gloomy moods and fits of despondency. Care, -therefore, should be taken to guard against these feelings. - -Amongst the numerous games purchased by the expedition before leaving -England was a football, which, on occasions of this sort and when the -ice would admit of it, would be produced, and a game kept up with great -spirit, though with an utter disregard of all orthodox rules. So long as -Jack got his kick, no matter in which direction the ball was propelled, -he was satisfied! Officers and men would alike mingle in the game, every -one determined to carry out the one grand object, namely, that of -enjoying themselves. Skating and sliding on the ice were also -accomplishments that afforded much pleasure and amusement, and were -freely indulged in by all, irrespective of age or rank. Sometimes our -Eskimo dogs would be taken out on the floe and harnessed to an empty -sledge, whilst some would-be dog driver, anxious to attain proficiency -as a whip, would make a start, and be seen tearing round the floe, -regardless of weak ice and pools of water, at the rate of ten miles an -hour, returning on board thoroughly drenched, but happy in the knowledge -that he had succeeded as a dog driver. - -Perhaps a few words here in connection with the dogs would not be out of -place. As I have before stated, they lived almost entirely in the fore -part of the vessel, and were consequently especial favourites with the -men, by whom they were fed and greatly petted. Of course they were all -named, their appellations being more characteristic than euphonious. -They rejoiced in such names as Ginger, so called on account of his -colour; Bruin, because he was minus a tail, having been deprived of this -appendage in his youthful days; Boss-eye, on account of the obliquity of -his vision, or as our men expressed it, because "his eyes were rove -cross-jack brace fashion;" Sore-sides, in consequence of the unfortunate -dog when it came on board suffering from an unhealed wound in its side. -Sallie, Topsy, Sly-boots, Jessie, etc., were the names of others. - -The only English dog in the expedition was my black retriever Nellie, an -old shipmate and companion, who took no pains to conceal her displeasure -and disgust at the introduction of such, in her estimation, a rough and -rowdy pack; nor was she ever afterwards induced to cultivate their -acquaintance. As she lived in the after part of the ship, she viewed -with a jealous eye any attempts on the part of the Eskimo dogs to -intrude on what she regarded as her own domain, and would invariably fly -at and drive them forward. - -Shortly after their appearance on board, and long before they had been -used for sledging purposes, a species of rabies, or dog madness, broke -out amongst them, which very quickly and alarmingly thinned their -number. The first symptom of this disease would generally be the dog -falling down in a fit, from which it would partially recover only to -rush about in a frantic manner as if totally deprived of all sense and -feeling. On some occasions they would rush into the water and be -drowned, and at other times wander away from the ship to be no more -seen; sometimes their sufferings would terminate in death, whilst at -other times they would be shot in order to release the poor things from -their pain. - -All expeditions have experienced the same kind of disease and mortality -amongst their dogs, for which there has hitherto been no remedy. It is a -curious fact that hydrophobia is unknown among the Eskimo, and no man -bitten by one of these dogs during a mad fit has ever suffered permanent -injury from its effects. Frequently whilst employed sledging, they have -been attacked by violent fits, resembling cramp, completely prostrating -them, causing them to roll over on their sides and foam at the mouth. On -these occasions they would be freed from the sledge, which after a time -they would follow, when they would be reharnessed and proceed as if -nothing had occurred. - -Dr. Colan devoted much of his time to the investigation of the nature -and causes of this disease, and I have no doubt his researches will -throw a flood of light over this matter that will prove of the greatest -value to succeeding expeditions in the preservation of their dogs, and -be the means of baffling the attacks of this insidious disease. - -The dogs when employed in dragging a sledge are always harnessed in line -abreast, and never, as generally supposed, ahead of each other in tandem -fashion. - -From six to ten or a dozen dogs form a team. They are capable of -dragging as much as one hundred and fifty pounds per dog; but this is -rather an excessive load and should not be exacted for any length of -time. So strong and enduring are they that they will frequently perform -a journey, over smooth ice, of twenty-five or thirty miles a day with -this load; but with light loads and level ice they have been known to -travel as much as seventy and even a hundred miles in one day. - -There is something very exhilarating and exciting about dog sledging, so -long as the weather is fine, temperature not too low, smooth level ice -to travel over, and a light sledge to drag. But let all these various -conditions be reversed, let the weather be thick and foggy, or a gale of -wind blowing with a blinding snow-drift, a temperature of 50 deg. below -zero, rough hummocky ice to travel over, and a heavily laden sledge to -be dragged by a tired and obstinate team, then dog sledging cannot be -regarded as either a comfortable or desirable amusement. - -The sensation of dashing along on a light sledge at the rate of ten -miles an hour, the fine snow flying into one's face as the dogs tear -through it pell-mell in their headlong career, or perhaps plunging down -the side of a steep ravine when the utmost caution is required to -prevent the sledge from capsizing and toppling over on the top of the -dogs, is both novel and delightful. But when obstacles such as hummocks -and deep snow-drifts have to be encountered, especially with a low -temperature, the reverse is the case. Directly the sledge receives the -slightest check from either of these causes, the dogs lie down, and look -at you in the most provoking manner. It is no use having recourse to the -whip, for not all the flogging in the world will make them advance until -the obstacle has been removed, or the sledge carried over the -difficulties that had retarded its progress. - -The whip is the main feature in dog driving. To be a good driver it is -therefore necessary to use this implement in a dexterous manner. The -lash is a thong of sealskin about eighteen or twenty feet long, attached -to a short handle of about twelve inches in length. It is, in the hands -of an experienced driver, a formidable weapon, the punishment that the -dogs receive from it being often very severe. They are guided solely by -it, and it is amusing to witness the cunning and intelligence displayed -by the outside dogs, who invariably get more than their fair share of -the lash, in dodging under the lines of the others and emerging -somewhere in the midst of the team in order to escape from its terrible -infliction. Another very annoying and distressing piece of work -connected with dog sledging is clearing the lines, which in a short time -become in a grievously entangled state from the constant dodging about -of the dogs, and this it must be remembered has to be done with hands -encased in thick woollen mitts, for to bare them would ensure serious -frost-bites. In consequence of the amount of provisions that have of -necessity to be carried for the use of the dogs, it is almost impossible -to use them for long journeys. None were employed during the expedition -by any of the extended sledge parties; but for short journeys, or when -dispatch was required, they were invaluable. - - -FOOTNOTE: - - [1] "Flinching" is a whaling term for cutting up a whale or walrus. - - - - -CHAPTER VIII. - -SLOW PROGRESS THROUGH THE ICE. - - - "He rose, the coast and country to survey, - Anxious and eager to discover more. - It looked a wild uncultivated shore, - But whether human kind or beast alone - Possessed the new-found region was unknown." - - VIRGIL. - -_Thursday, August 12th._--Early this morning, the floes opening -slightly, an attempt was made to proceed; but it was a futile one, the -ice remaining perfectly impenetrable. This delay is naturally causing -anxiety, as our fuel is rapidly disappearing, from the constant demand -for steam, and the navigable season is also as rapidly waning, young ice -forming alongside the ship nearly an inch in thickness. Patience, -combined with caution and perseverance, is an indispensable -qualification for an Arctic navigator. At the same time he must be -prepared, when occasion offers, to make a bold dash. Quick determination -and an ever-ready eye to seize upon any available opportunity are also -necessary attributes of the explorer who hopes to achieve success in ice -navigation. Without them failure is inevitable. - -In the forenoon both ships were slightly nipped. We succeeded in -unshipping our rudder in time; but the "Discovery," receiving the -squeeze more astern, had her rudder very severely injured. She was -enabled, however, to patch it up sufficiently for temporary use and thus -avoid the necessity of shifting it. In the afternoon the ice began to -move to the eastward, enabling us once more to make a start. Hastily -shipping our rudders we got under weigh, and having bored through a few -streams of ice emerged into a fine lead of water extending between the -land and the pack. Passing Cape D'Urville, we opened a large inlet. At -its head was a deep ravine, containing two large glaciers which, running -respectively from N.E. and N.W., met and formed one terminal face. At 9 -P.M. the southern extreme of Dobbin Bay, called Cape Hawks, was passed. -This is a magnificent promontory, which has, with some propriety, been -compared, in appearance, to the Rock of Gibraltar. - -It was a beautifully calm night as both ships silently rounded this bold -headland, the water so still and unruffled that it was actually used as -an artificial horizon for the purpose of taking an astronomical -observation. The Cape itself towered over our heads as we steamed past, -its reflection in the still quiet water being clearly visible, whilst -deep ravines on either side stretched away apparently for miles into the -interior, until lost amid the snow-shining mountains in the far -distance. A large glacier at the head of the bay showed out prominently -as it glistened in the light of a bright midnight sun, the bay itself -being covered with an icy sheet, broken only by a few long low bergs, -generated, in all probability, from the selfsame glacier. The few clouds -that were visible in the almost cloudless sky presented an exquisite -iridescence rarely witnessed, exhibiting clearly defined bright -colours, extending in bands in a horizontal direction, the reflection -of which in the clear pellucid water materially enhanced the beauties of -the landscape. Such a scene, with all its surroundings, could scarcely -be equalled in beauty, certainly not surpassed, even in sunny Italy. - -[Illustration: CAPE HAWKS.] - -Making the ships fast to an iceberg, preparations for landing a large -depot of provisions, similar to the one established at the Cary Islands, -were immediately commenced. A jolly-boat, obtained from the "Valorous," -was also deposited here. We have now two large depots, besides boats, -established in our rear, sufficient to sustain a large party for many -days, should any untoward accident befall our ship. - -Whilst engaged in these operations, an adjacent island--Washington -Irving Island--was visited, and a large cairn erected on its summit. Our -surprise may be imagined when, on reaching the top, the remains of an -old cairn were discovered. At first its origin was attributed to Hayes, -who visited the island in 1860, but on closer inspection evidences of a -construction at a much earlier date were palpable, the stones of which -it was composed being covered with lichen, denoting great age. Hayes, in -the published account of his voyage, makes no mention either of having -seen this cairn or of having built one on the island. It was, -undoubtedly, the work of white men's hands; the object and necessity for -building cairns is unknown, and therefore not practised, by the Eskimos. -How then came this structure in such a remote and desolate part of the -world? Can it be the work of some obscure navigator of years gone by, -who erected this monument as a memento of his visit, but who never -returned to relate the results of his adventurous voyage? This must for -ever remain a mystery! - -Of course it was quickly demolished and its site subjected to a very -careful search, in the hopes of discovering some record or clue by which -its history might be ascertained; but nothing was found, and we were -forced to content ourselves with reconstructing it on a larger scale, -and depositing a record at its base detailing the movements of the -expedition. - -The depot having been landed, the ships were moved a little farther up -the bay, although, to effect this, we were compelled to have recourse to -powder, in order to "blast" a passage through the ice. The recent -tracks of a bear were observed on the floe, being the only indications -of the presence of these animals that we had observed since leaving -Melville Bay. It naturally caused a little excitement amongst our -sportsmen and would-be bear slayers. - -The formation of the land around Dobbin Bay appeared curiously -contorted; the stratifications dipping, in some places, to the westward -at an angle of about 18 deg., whilst at others they assumed a perfectly -horizontal direction. This irregularity of the strata may probably be -accounted for by the trap, or other primary rock, forcing its way -upwards through the limestone formation. Where these contortions appear -the colour changes from the sombre grey of the surrounding limestone to -a bright red and brownish hue. - -In the afternoon, it being deemed expedient for the safety of the ships -that they should be docked, the requisite instructions were given, and -in four hours they were securely placed in two large commodious docks, -cut out of the solid floe. - -The process of docking is rendered necessary to prevent a ship from -being crushed between two floes should she be so unfortunate as to be -placed between them with the whole force of the pack driving against the -outer one. This operation is frequently necessary whilst following the -land-ice, although in these days of steam it is not so frequently -practised as of old. - -Our ice-saw crews had previously been organized, and, as it is -absolutely necessary that the work of construction should be carried out -with the utmost expedition, the whole of the officers and ship's company -were stationed so as to take an active part in the proceedings. The -instant the order was given for "all hands to cut dock" a most animated -scene ensued. Triangles were quickly erected, saws placed in position, -the dock measured and marked out by boarding-pikes placed at the several -corners, and every one working as if their lives depended upon their own -individual exertions. Three persons only were left on board the -ship--namely, one officer in charge of the deck, the engineer at the -engines, and a man at the helm--and, as it was necessary to keep the -ship constantly moving so as to avoid pieces of ice, and also to place -her in a good position for being docked, these three had no sinecure -offices. - -Occasionally a jet of water, followed by a loud report and a shower of -fragmentary ice, showed that powder was used to shatter the larger -pieces of ice that had been cut, but unless great care is taken in the -use of this explosive, it is liable to damage the sides of the dock. - -This was our first attempt at dock cutting, which will account for the -time occupied in its construction. Ordinarily the work should be -completed in about a couple of hours. When two or more ships are in -company time is saved by employing all hands to cut one dock large -enough to take in all the ships. - -The diagram on next page will serve to illustrate the system employed by -us whilst engaged in making one of these docks. The last triangular -piece of ice that is taken out--namely, the portion marked on the plan -by the letters C B F--is removed intact, and being placed across the -entrance serves to close the dock and thus keep out all stray pieces of -ice. - -After four hours of such work as dock cutting entails, it was poor -comfort for us to return on board wet, cold, and hungry, only to find -that our fires had been allowed to burn out, and that we could neither -get a cup of tea to refresh ourselves with, nor a chance of warming -ourselves at the stove.[1] The Eskimo dogs, being turned out on the floe -and tied to one of our anchor lines, made night hideous by their dreary -and lamentable wailing. - -[Illustration: PLAN OF ICE DOCK. - - No. 1 saw cuts from A to B 200 ft. - No. 2 " " D to C 200 ft. - No. 3 " " B to C 35 ft., and then on to F 115 ft. - No. 4 saw cuts from F to D 120 ft., and, if necessary, from E to F 48 - ft. - - DIMENSIONS OF DOCK. - - Length 200 ft. - Breadth, at entrance 65 " - Ditto, at head 35 "] - -For two days were the ships kept close prisoners; but on Sunday, August -15th, as soon as divine service was finished, a large party of men was -actively engaged in cutting and blasting a passage between the floe in -which we were imprisoned and the shore, for a lead of water had been -observed in the channel which we were naturally desirous of reaching. -Although Sunday was as much as possible observed as a day of rest, it -was quite out of the question to a party situated as we were altogether -to abstain from work on the Sabbath. Our navigable season, we knew, was -a short one; no opportunity could we afford to lose; and therefore we -were compelled to work as much on Sunday as on week-days should -circumstances arise which would make it necessary for us to do so. After -about nine hours' hard work we succeeded in making a passage -sufficiently broad for the ships to pass through. Our last explosion was -a most effective one; no less than eight blasting charges, or torpedoes, -were exploded simultaneously--these varied in size from five to twelve -pound charges. - -[Illustration: "THE MOANING OF THE TIED."] - -The result of this, designated by the men, "feu de joy" was wonderful; -the floe split and cracked in all directions, enabling us with our long -ice points and poles to clear a splendid channel. Hauling the ships out -of dock, we steamed through the passage and into a fine stream of water -round Cape Louis Napoleon. So narrow, however, was our channel that in -rounding the point, to our great dismay, the "Discovery" grounded. A -delay at this moment might have proved fatal to us, and it was therefore -with no small amount of satisfaction, after a short detention, that we -observed her again afloat. Our joy at being again on the move was -short-lived. A few hours sufficed to bring us to the edge of a field of -ice, to penetrate which seemed utterly impossible. To cut a dock in such -ice, the floes being from ten to twenty feet in thickness, was also out -of the question, even had we been provided with saws sufficiently long -to do so. Blasting was resorted to, and by this means we were enabled to -secure the ship in a small indentation in the ice that afforded some -slight protection. So high was the ice that our boats, hanging from the -midship davits on the outside of the ship, had to be turned inboard to -prevent their being crushed. For three days were we kept in a state of -feverish excitement without being able to make any progress, and yet -constantly moving the ship to avoid destruction from drifting bergs and -closing floes. - -The shore was frequently visited, and the heights of Mount Joy and Cape -Hayes ascended; but always the same scene met our view to northward--an -impassable plain of ice. - -Twice in one day were the ships nearly destroyed. A large iceberg that -was aground close to us, and therefore protecting us from the pack, -suddenly floated and drifted away. This released a large floe to which -we were secured, and with which we drifted down rapidly towards another -large berg that remained aground. It was an anxious time for us, for in -five minutes, unless we could move out of the way, we must be inevitably -crushed between the two. All hands were quickly summoned, a line laid -out astern and made fast to some large hummocks, and by this we -fortunately succeeded in hauling the ship clear; but only just in time, -for as our bowsprit cleared the berg, the floe came into contact with it -with such irresistible force that hummock was piled upon hummock in a -truly alarming manner. Had we been caught, nothing short of a miracle -could have saved us. - -The noise of the ice as it squeezed against the berg was anything but -pleasant to listen to; but still it was better than hearing our own -timbers crashing to pieces in the same manner, and we all experienced a -strong feeling of relief when the danger was past. - -Little rest was enjoyed by any on these days during which we were -subjected to the wayward will of the pack. Unshipping and replacing the -rudder, and lifting and lowering the screw, were duties that had to be -carried out several times during each day, and, although this sort of -work is rather depressing and irksome, the spirits of the crew never -flagged. They were always ready, cheerful, and willing. No matter what -duty they were called upon to perform, it was invariably carried out in -the same zealous, hearty manner that was so conspicuously manifested -during the whole period of the absence of the expedition as to elicit -the unbounded praise and confidence of their leader. - -On the 19th of August the ice slackened sufficiently to enable us to -proceed, and on that evening, to the intense delight of every one, we -succeeded in rounding Cape Fraser. - -During the last three weeks we had advanced exactly ninety miles, or at -the rate of about four and a quarter miles a day. This cannot be -considered a rapid rate of travelling, yet to accomplish even this -necessitated a constant and vigilant look-out. - -Cape Fraser is a bold promontory some thousand feet in height, -terminating in a short projecting point of land about two hundred feet -above the level of the sea. Above the talus appeared numerous caves in -the cliffs, a peculiarity noticed for the first time, and the summit was -studded with irregularities that, to an imaginative mind, might be -perverted into gigantic beings, animals, or castellated towers. On one -of these ridges was a heap of stones supposed to represent the "Twelve -Apostles," and was so marked on the chart; but as we could never -distinguish more than half the number at one time from any point of -bearing, it was generally supposed on board that they adhered to true -man-of-war regulations, and only appeared in their "watch on deck," half -the number belonging of course to the watch below! - -At 10 P.M., being again temporarily stopped, the ships were secured in a -little harbour called Maury Bay. During our detention in the vicinity of -Cape Fraser, we were able to confirm the observations made by Dr. -Bessels of the "Polaris," relative to the meeting of two tides at or -about this point. This fact materially strengthens the argument in -favour of the insularity of Greenland, for it has been deduced from a -series of tidal observations obtained by us that the tide to the -northward of Cape Fraser--that is, the tide in Kennedy and Robeson -Channels--is undoubtedly the same as the North Atlantic one, and -therefore flows along the northern coast of Greenland. - -Contrary to what might generally be expected, we did not encounter any -very great accumulation of broken up ice in consequence of the meeting -of these two tides: not more than would be caused by the fact of the -channel decreasing in size to the northward at this point, and therefore -offering greater obstruction to the ice whilst drifting northward, but -facilitating its general drift, which is to the southward. - -From the summit of Cape John Barrow, which forms one extreme of the -little bay in which we were secured, we obtained a good view, and one -which delighted and gladdened our hearts. - -Northwards we could see as far as Cape L. von Buch; between us leads of -water, although covered with much loose ice. To the eastward we could -plainly distinguish Cape Constitution, with a large sheet of water along -its base; but to get to it we should have had to penetrate a large -expanse of pack. This pool of water was in all probability similar to -one seen by Morton in the same place in 1855, and reported by him as an -"open Polar sea," on which many imaginative theories have been based! - -Our return to the ship was not accomplished without much difficulty, in -consequence of our little harbour of refuge having filled with drifting -ice, during the time we were on shore, which beset our boat. We were -therefore compelled to haul and drag it over and through innumerable -fragments of ice, reaching the ship wet and fatigued, but delighted with -the intelligence we possessed and the prospect of pushing on. - -_Friday, August 20th._--At one o'clock this morning, being the top of -high water, we made another start. - -Taking advantage of the different broad lanes of water, we steamed -rapidly past Cape Norton Shaw, and opened out Scoresby Bay--a grand -harbour that would suit admirably for a ship's winter quarters, provided -animal life existed. From the appearance of the land we imagined that -game would be found in large quantities. A perfect cone-shaped hill on -the north-west side is a very prominent feature of this bay. Indeed, the -entire coast along which we are passing is composed of long ranges of -hills more or less coniform, varying from one to two thousand feet in -height. The coast line is very imperfectly delineated on our charts, the -distance between the various bays and headlands are erroneous, and the -positions are wrong; the error always being that they are placed too -much to the northward. - -Off Cape McClintock we had another narrow escape from being severely -nipped, in consequence of attempting to pass through a channel between -two closing floes. Although jammed for a short time, the pressure was -not very great, and, the nip easing, the ship was released. Passing Cape -Collinson we were again obliged to make fast to a large floe, as all the -leads to the northward had closed up, thereby preventing farther -progress. - -The ice was moving rapidly to the southward--the whole pack drifting -bodily--at the rate of from one and a half to two knots an hour. The -floe to which we were secured was kept stationary by a couple of -grounded icebergs that effectually resisted all its efforts to extricate -itself. This rapid drift seemed to indicate the presence of a "North -Water," or at any rate a very loose pack. - -Advantage was taken of our temporary delay to establish a small depot of -provisions, consisting of two hundred and forty rations, near Cape -Collinson, for the use of a travelling party which, according to -existing arrangements, would be dispatched to the southward by the -"Discovery" during the following year, for the purpose of visiting Cape -Isabella, and bringing up any letters that might have been deposited -there for us. - -_Saturday, August 21st._--Lanes of water appearing continuous to the -northward, we got under weigh at half-past two this morning; but after -two or three hours' boring and working under steam and sail we were -forced to relinquish the attempt, being unable to penetrate the pack in -the direction we wished to proceed. We therefore returned to our former -anchorage, under the lea of a friendly berg, the ice continuing to drift -south with marvellous rapidity. - -Whilst detained here we were assailed by some furious squalls from the -S.E., accompanied by a heavy fall of snow. During one of these the -"Discovery" was blown away from her anchors, and it was with no little -difficulty that she was again secured to the floe in safety. Thinking we -should be able to reach some open water to the northward by the removal -of the large floe to which we were fast, both ships' companies were -employed in sawing off a large piece of it, which, impinging on one of -the stranded icebergs, would, it was thought, release the floe if -detached. The distance to cut through was one thousand feet. -Notwithstanding the magnitude of the undertaking, every one set to work -with a will and resolution that betokened confidence in being able to -succeed in anything that was required of them. - -Before the work was fairly commenced the ice appeared to slack to the -eastward, and the captain, abandoning his former intention, determined -to seek a passage through the pack instead of hugging the coast. - -Getting under weigh at 9.30 P.M., we bored through a large extent of -slack ice, into a fine piece of open water, which, when reached, we -found possessed no outlet. It was a perfect salt-water lake surrounded -by ice. In this we were obliged to dodge about under sail, waiting -patiently for the ice to open and thus allow us a free passage. - -As we proceed northwards the ice appears to be heavier and more -formidable, and animal life seems to be getting more scarce. Few birds -are seen. Occasionally the head of an inquisitive seal is protruded out -of the water, but immediately withdrawn (if not killed) on being saluted -by half a dozen bullets from the rifles of our keen and enthusiastic -sportsmen, who are for ever on the watch to display their prowess in -their endeavours to procure food for our dogs, by shooting these -animals, who thus pay for their curiosity with their lives. - -We appeared to be leaving the region of icebergs, for, although those -met with lately were of great size, they were few in number. The one -affording us protection this forenoon was no less than six hundred feet -in length. - - -FOOTNOTE: - - [1] An amusing story is related of one of the officers. Whilst - engaged in cutting the dock, he, without thinking, put his pipe in - his trousers pocket, so as to enable him the more readily to work at - his ice-saw. Feeling, after a time, a little warm about his legs, he - attributed it to his exertions in working the saw, until a sharp and - intolerable pain caused him to put his hand into his pocket. This - speedily afforded an explanation: his pipe, being still alight, had - burnt a hole through his trousers and shirt and was burning his leg! - - - - -CHAPTER IX. - -KENNEDY CHANNEL. - - - _2nd Keeper._--"I'll stay above the hill so both may shoot." - - _1st Keeper._--"That cannot be: the noise of thy cross-bow will scare - the herd, and so my shoot is lost. Here stand we both, and aim we at - the best."--_Henry VI._ - - "Within a long recess there lies a bay, - An island shades it from the rolling sea, - And forms a port secure for ships to ride, - Broke by the jutting land on either side." - - VIRGIL. - -_Sunday, August 22nd._--The rapidity of the changes that take place in -these icy seas is almost inconceivable. In a few hours from being -helplessly imprisoned by a dense pack of ice, we were actually plying, -under steam and sail, in a vast expanse of water containing only a few -loose streams of ice, through which we had no difficulty in penetrating. -Our predictions were indeed realized, and to a greater extent than we -had even anticipated. We had reached a "North Water," in which we were -sensible of a very perceptible motion on board the ship. It is true that -the pack, apparently as solid and as impenetrable as ever, extended -along the west side of Kennedy Channel; but to the northward and along -the east side was a clear and open sea, free of ice, with its surface -agitated by the fresh northerly wind that was blowing, and rising and -falling with true oceanic undulations. - -Unfortunately for us, at least so far as making headway was concerned, -the wind was not only very strong but directly ahead, compelling us to -beat to windward under steam and fore and aft sails. We consoled -ourselves, however, with the hope that the same wind would blow all the -ice to the southward, and thus enable us to make good progress. The -temperature being some six or seven degrees below freezing point caused -us to feel the sharp wind in a very unpleasant manner, and made both the -crow's-nest and bridge very disagreeable places of resort. The pleasure -of feeling that we were really doing good work was, however, sufficient -compensation for the discomfort that was felt. - -Stretching over to the eastern side of the channel we passed close to -Crozier Island, having Cape Constitution full in view. Its appearance -coincides exactly with the description given by Morton. - -This cape is the northern extreme of a bay called, by Kane, Lafayette -Bay. It is steep and precipitous, and has no ice-foot adhering. Indeed, -the base of the headland, as well as the adjacent one, Cape -Independence, has the appearance of having been partially undermined by -the action of the sea, thus forming an overhanging terrace, up which it -would be impossible to ascend. Morton found its ascent totally -impracticable, on account of the steep and rugged nature of the cliff. -We were unable to detect any signs of a _mer de glace_ over this land, -although a light tinge along the summit to the southward of Lafayette -Bay would lead one to suppose that it existed. This, however, was the -only indication of an ice-cap that was perceived, and it was one on -which little or no reliance was placed. - -The positions of the various points along this coast are very fairly -correct, being as nearly as possible in the latitudes ascribed to them -by Dr. Bessels of the "Polaris," affording a striking contrast to the -places on the opposite side of the channel, where the positions are so -egregiously inaccurate. The deep inlet on the American chart called Carl -Ritter Bay was not to be seen. The only indentation in the land in its -assigned position was Richardson Bay, which we must naturally conclude -was the one seen and named Carl Ritter by Dr. Hayes. - -It was a curious fact that, whereas the land on the west side of the -channel was completely covered with snow, the land on the east side was -entirely free. This was not the only peculiar feature in which the two -sides of the channel differed. Although apparently of the same -geological formation, there was a great dissimilarity between the -physical appearance of the land on either side. That on the east was -flat and table-topped, rising to the height of about one thousand feet, -separated into hills by broad valleys, whilst the stratification of the -cliffs was regular and horizontal. That on the west side was, on the -contrary, composed of conical-shaped hills, rising to an altitude of -from two to four thousand feet, and intersected by deep ravines, whilst -the stratifications were so distorted that the dip varied as much as -from 10 deg. to 45 deg.. - -Whilst the land on the east side appeared to have undergone a regular -and steady upheaval, that on the west seemed to have been raised -suddenly, the deep ravines between the numerous hills resembling the -beds of ancient and extinct glaciers. - -_Monday, August 23rd._--A glorious run has been made during the last -twenty-four hours, assisted, for a short time, as we have been, by a -strong southerly wind; but alas! by 10 A.M. we arrived at the end of our -tether! - -Passing the entrance to Bessels Bay, we reached Cape Morton, from whence -extended right across Hall Basin our implacable enemy, the ice--solid -floes of immense area stretching to the northward as far as the eye -could reach, with no opening, no outlet of any description, and no -indications of water. - -Polaris Bay was ahead of us, and we could plainly discern the position -of the Americans' winter quarters; but with no hopes, for the present, -of our reaching so far. We must again, as we have so often had to do -before, exercise our patience, and wait for a more favourable -opportunity for pushing on. The strong southerly wind now blowing will, -in all probability, be succeeded by a calm or a breeze from the -northward, either of which will have the effect of opening the ice. The -"Discovery" having landed a small depot of two hundred and forty rations -at Cape Morton, for the use of travelling parties that will hereafter be -dispatched for the purpose of exploring Petermann Fiord, both ships made -sail and beat back to Bessels Bay, where we dropped anchor in seven -fathoms, just inside, and under the protection of Hannah Island. - -Bessels Bay is a long and narrow indentation in the land, extending in a -N.W. and S.E. direction, having numerous small glaciers on either side, -the majority of them discharging ones. The bay is in consequence nearly -choked with small bergs. - -This bay or fiord gives one the idea of having been originally the bed -of some large glacier, now extinct, whilst Hannah Island, which lies -directly across its mouth, has every appearance of having been its -terminal moraine, not only from its position, but also from its -composition, for it consists of an immense heap of pebbles and drift, -possessing apparently no determined basis, no underlying rock. - -We were also able to observe here the undoubted _mer de glace_ under -which Greenland is supposed to be buried, and whose outpourings in this -locality find their escape in Petermann Fiord and Bessels Bay. - -A few eider-ducks, a seal, and some dovekies, with an ivory gull, were -seen to-day. - -Captain Feilden and Mr. Parr landed on the northern side of the bay, -and, ascending a high hill, obtained a good and unobstructed view to the -northward. Their report was very desponding--ice, nothing but ice, as -far as they could see. - -From what we can now observe, the land on the western side of Hall Basin -appears to end abruptly somewhere about Cape Union, and does not -continue to the northward, as represented in the last American Chart. I -put no belief in the land reported to have been seen by some of the men -of the "Polaris," and named President Land. Should the land terminate, -as I anticipate, in about lat. 83 deg. N. our chance of reaching a high -latitude will of course be much reduced, although we shall have a grand -field of exploration to the eastward and westward. - -In the evening the captain and myself visited Hannah Island, and erected -a cairn, in which a record detailing our movements was deposited, on its -summit, in the most conspicuous place about the centre of the island. -Here we had an uninterrupted view to the northward; but what we saw -only confirmed the report brought on board in the earlier part of the -day. The western side of the channel appeared free of ice as far as Cape -Lieber, and a lane of water was visible extending from us as far as this -cape. By this stream of water appears our only chance of getting on. - -_Tuesday, August 24th._--The captain left the ship early this morning to -ascend the hill immediately above Cape Morton (two thousand feet in -height), in order to ascertain from the nature of the ice what our -prospects of pushing on were likely to be. During his absence a haul -with the dredge was obtained, but with unimportant results: the -continual movement of icebergs in the bay, all more or less aground, -would hardly admit of much organic life at the bottom. Fossils abounded -in the limestone on shore, and a large collection of specimens was made. - -At noon the captain was observed, in his boat, off Cape Morton, with the -signal flying for the ships "to weigh." - -His orders were speedily executed; and, having picked him up, we were -soon running quickly across to the western side. He gave us the very -pleasing information that from the summit of Cape Morton he had observed -a magnificent lead of water along the west coast, and extending in all -probability as far as Cape Beechey. This was indeed delightful -intelligence, and served to raise the social barometer many degrees. - -Our coal was rapidly diminishing, and we knew that many more days of -steaming such as those we had lately had would reduce our fuel to such -an extent that we could hope to do little more; for without steam a -vessel in these latitudes would indeed be helpless. - -11 P.M.--Oh, the hopes and disappointments that we poor Arctic explorers -have to endure! First of all a confiding anticipation in the future -makes us joyous and expectant, and then we are plunged into the lowest -depths of despondency. - -Two hours ago we were steaming through a grand expanse of water, looking -forward with confidence to reaching, in a few hours, Cape Beechey, or -perhaps even Cape Union, both being distinctly visible ahead, whilst -Capes Brevoort, Sumner, and Stanton were in sight on our starboard bow. - -Passing Cape Baird, however, we were again met by our insatiable enemy, -the ice, which defied all our efforts to penetrate it. - -We are now slowly picking our way across Lady Franklin Strait towards -Cape Bellot, in the hope of being able to reach some place of security -where we can remain patiently until a northerly wind shall have cleared -a passage for us. Whilst crossing Kennedy Channel we obtained a -magnificent view up Petermann Fiord. It is an extensive opening, with no -land visible at its head. This is a geographical problem which we hope -we shall soon be able to solve. It is difficult to determine at present -whether Lady Franklin Strait is really a strait or a deep inlet. We are -inclined to the latter belief. This is another question we hope will -soon be satisfactorily settled. - -_Wednesday, August 25th._--At one o'clock this morning, whilst threading -our way amongst the ice-floes that bordered the coast, a herd of musk -oxen was observed browsing quietly on an adjacent hill. Such an -opportunity for obtaining fresh meat was not to be disregarded. A -shooting party was quickly organized, and, whilst the boats were being -prepared and the hunters getting ready their rifles, the ships were -taken into a beautifully snug and land-locked harbour, protected at its -mouth by a large island, situated on the northern coast of Lady Franklin -Bay. - -Here the anchors were let go, and the sportsmen despatched in quest of -the game. - -Separating into three distinct parties on landing, we advanced -cautiously towards the spot where they were last seen grazing, hoping to -be able to surround and capture the entire herd. Not only did we all -enter keenly into the sport, but our mouths watered at the prospect of -again indulging in fresh meat. We pictured to ourselves smoking-hot -beefsteaks and savoury calf's liver, dainties that we had for some time -been strangers to, being prepared for us after our return to the ship, -never even dreaming of a chance of returning empty-handed. - -The disposition of our force was well calculated, for the musk oxen -being alarmed, in all probability by the blowing off of steam from one -of the ships, started in full flight in the direction of a deep ravine. -Here they were met by a couple of the hunters, who discharging their -rifles dropped two of the herd. The remainder turned and dashed up the -side of a steep hill, but only to be met by two more sportsmen, who made -such good use of their time and weapons, that they succeeded in shooting -the remainder, seven in number. - -One of the first brought down was the bull of the herd, a noble fellow; -but so tenacious of life that several shots had to be expended, at a -very short range, before he bit the dust. - -Elated with our success, and having sent back to the ship for assistance -in conveying the meat on board, we commenced skinning, cleaning, and -cutting up the animals, so as to guard against the possibility of any -delay in doing so being the means of tainting the flesh with the -disagreeable musky odour. This, in consequence of the scarcity of knives -amongst the party, was a long and tedious process; however, by nine -o'clock we had the satisfaction of seeing our "morning's bag" safely on -board, amounting altogether to 2,124 lbs. of good fresh meat. Not a bad -morning's work! - -[Illustration: MUSK OXEN.] - -These animals, from peculiarities they possess, are placed in a genus -between the sheep and the ox, and are called _ovibos moschatus_. They -are only met with in high latitudes, although traces of them, it is -reported, have been seen as far south as 59 deg. N. lat., but they are -rarely seen in any numbers lower than 67 deg. N. lat. - -They have been seen, and shot, in large numbers, by the various search -expeditions wintering at and about Melville Island, and they were also -obtained on the opposite side of Kennedy Channel by the "Polaris" in -1872. The crew of this latter vessel succeeded in shooting twenty-six -during the twelve months they passed in this latitude. They are -gregarious, usually wandering in small herds, although occasionally -single specimens are found. The herd just obtained by us consisted of -one old bull and four old cows, and two young bulls and two young cows. -They subsist on the scant vegetation of these regions--principally -grasses and lichens--which they scrape up from under the snow, when the -ground is covered. They hardly give one the impression of being very -quick and agile, yet they ascend hills and climb over rocks and rough -surfaces with great ease. They are reputed to be very irascible, and -have frequently been known, when wounded, to attack a hunter and -seriously endanger his life. The horns are very broad, covering the brow -and crown of the head, and meeting at their base. Our bullets appeared -to have no effect when fired at the head. From the bull we obtained no -less than 385 lbs. of meat! - -Finding that the harbour in which the ships were anchored possessed all -the necessary qualifications for rendering the winter quarters of a -vessel in the Arctic Regions comfortable and secure, Captain Nares -selected this spot as the place in which he would leave the "Discovery." -It appeared in every way adapted for this purpose. A secure harbour, -possessing two narrow entrances, with the water so shallow as to -effectually prevent the larger and heavier pieces of ice from drifting -into it, with a neighbourhood covered with a more luxuriant and richer -vegetation than had hitherto been seen, and giving evidences of being -well stocked with game--for, in addition to the musk oxen, numerous and -recent traces of wolves, foxes, hares, and lemmings had been -observed--the place seemed especially suited for passing the winter in; -and its selection as the winter quarters of our consort was never -regretted. - -We all feel that the navigable season is rapidly drawing to a close, and -that very few more days are left us. During the last week the -temperature has never been above the freezing point; and the young ice -has been forming to an alarming extent, even at midday. An advance, if -farther advance is to be made, will be better and more speedily -accomplished with one ship only, than by having two to look after. The -responsibility is lessened, whilst the knowledge that there is another -ship to fall back upon, in case of accidents, removes all anxiety. - -When the decision that the two ships were to part company was -promulgated, it was received with satisfaction, although we were all -sorry to lose the companionship of our numerous friends. The evening was -spent in an interchange of visits, and many a sincere and fervent "God -speed," with a silent but expressive squeeze of the hand, was exchanged -between the officers and the men of the two Arctic ships. - -In order to strengthen our force on board the "Alert," and to have an -extra sledge party for the purpose, if required, of communicating with -our consort, an officer, Lieutenant Rawson, and seven men were received -from the "Discovery;" the only thing that we were able to give in -exchange being 900 lbs. of the musk oxen just procured--a by no means -despicable offering! - -Everything having been satisfactorily arranged, the "Alert" steamed away -from Discovery Harbour on the morning of the 26th, exchanging hearty -cheers with her consort as she passed; she hoisting the signal "May -Providence prosper your efforts," to which we replied "Happy Winter;" -and thus we separated, happy in the knowledge that a safe refuge was -established in our rear, with the unknown before us, fervently praying -for a successful issue to our undertaking. - - - - -CHAPTER X. - -THE CROSSING OF THE THRESHOLD. - - - "And now there came both mist and snow, - And it grew wondrous cold. - And ice, mast high, came floating by, - As green as emerald. - And through the drifts, the snowy cliffs - Did send a dismal sheen; - Nor shapes of men, nor beasts we ken, - The ice was all between. - - * * * * * - - With sloping masts and dripping prow, - As who pursued with yell and blow, - Still treads the shadow of his foe, - And forwards bends his head, - The ship drove fast, loud roared the blast, - And _Northwards_ aye we fled." - - COLERIDGE. - -Now that we are pursuing our solitary journey northwards, we can the -more fully realize that our real work has commenced--the real work -towards the achievement of that success which we all so ardently hope -will crown our efforts. - -Now that we are alone we shall be the more ready to avail ourselves of -every opening in the ice that may present itself, every little chance -that may occur, which we should be unable to do, if hampered with a -second ship. - -We had hardly advanced three miles, in fact were still just inside the -entrance to the harbour, when the ice, closing in round the point, -barred all egress. In endeavouring to steer clear of these fragments, -the ship grounded on a projecting spit off a small island, but sustained -no injury, floating again immediately she was lightened. As farther -advance was out of the question, for the present, in consequence of the -pack having drifted in, the vessel was secured under the lee of a -natural breakwater at the entrance to Discovery Harbour, ready to take -advantage of the first opportunity of making a start that should offer. - -Accompanied by Feilden and Rawson, I made an expedition to Distant Cape, -whence we obtained a good view of Robeson Channel; but it was anything -but an inspiriting one. There appeared to be a perfect block of heavy -ice right across to the Greenland coast, although a few thin blue lines, -denoting streams of water, could be discerned radiating in the pack to -the eastward, but apparently leading to nothing. - -Some terns, _Sterna Arctica_, were obtained on a small island, as also -their young and eggs. The nests were simply little round holes, some in -the snow, having a few small pebbles as a bed. Some knots, _Tringa -Canutius_, were also obtained; but no amount of search was successful in -discovering either the egg or the nest of this bird. - -A fine sheet of water, situated on the breakwater, being frozen over, -afforded our skaters an opportunity of indulging in their favourite -pastime, and of practising both the inside and outside edges to their -hearts' content. - -The following day was also one of enforced idleness, and no movement -could be made with the ship. - -[Illustration: KNOTS.] - -Snow fell heavily, much to our annoyance, as it prevented us from -keeping a perfect watch on the ice in the channel, in consequence of its -density. The ice was being set up Lady Franklin Bay at a great pace. -Once during the day it appeared inclined to open and give us a chance of -proceeding. The skaters and sportsmen were hurriedly called on board; -but before steam could be raised the opportunity was lost. In navigating -these waters it is necessary to be constantly on the alert, and -prepared, at any moment, to take advantage of any chance that may occur; -but with the small quantity of fuel we have remaining, it is also -necessary to economize and husband that essential aid to advance as much -as possible; our fires were therefore always kept low, except when the -engines were actually working. - -A small fragment of driftwood was picked up on the island. It resembled -some hard wood, but was so wasted and worn by attrition that it was -impossible, without subjecting it to microscopic examination, to -determine to what species it belonged. - -The large island off which we were secured, and which forms the main -protection to Discovery Harbour, was named Bellot Island, after the -distinguished young French naval officer who lost his life whilst -zealously prosecuting the search for Sir John Franklin and his ill-fated -companions. - -_Saturday, August 28th._--A thick fog in the morning effectually -frustrated all our hopes of advancing; but clearing up towards midday, -we were rejoiced at seeing several leads through the ice in the -direction of Cape Beechey. - -Steam was quickly raised; but, in attempting to cant, the ship took the -ground, and much to our chagrin and disappointment remained immovable. -This was indeed tantalizing, as we knew by sad experience how capricious -were the motions of the ice, and that every moment was of the utmost -value to us. - -Lightening the ship as much as possible, the rising tide floated her in -about a couple of hours, and at 5 P.M., having hoisted up all our boats, -we were again able to proceed. - -As we rounded the point we hoisted the colours and dipped them three -times as a parting farewell to our consort, who had just time to whip up -the signal "Good luck" before we were finally shut out from each other's -view. - -Rounding Distant Cape, we found the channel full of ice, some of the -floes being very massive and of great extent; but between them existed -narrow lanes of water, in some places choked by loose slack ice, through -which we had little difficulty in penetrating, although at the expense -of our rudder, which was so severely injured by the heavy nature of the -ice as to be rendered almost useless. - -At midnight, when within about a mile of Cape Beechey, ice was -encountered stretching right across the channel and pressing so tightly -in to the land as to form a dead block to our farther advance. We had -then by estimation reached the 82 deg. parallel of latitude. This check was -a great damper to our hopes, especially as no bays, or protection of any -description for the ship from the pack, could be found in our immediate -vicinity. - -Our only resource was to return a few miles to the southward and there, -in a slight indentation of the land, affording little or no protection, -secure the ship to an ice floe, and employ ourselves at once with the -rather heavy operations connected with shifting the rudder. This work -was performed in about three hours. In the mean time, a small herd of -musk oxen having been observed on shore, our sportsmen were despatched -in pursuit, and we soon had the satisfaction of hearing that they had -succeeded in shooting three, the remainder of the herd having escaped -over the hills. This was a very welcome addition to our stock of fresh -meat. Our mizzen-rigging was now literally groaning with the amount of -meat suspended there; for, in addition to the recent accumulation of -musk-ox flesh, the remainder of our sheep, some seven or eight in -number, had been slaughtered and added to the general stock. So hard -were the portions frozen, that they were very truthfully compared to -the legs of mutton and sides of sheep made of wood usually seen hanging -in the front of a butcher's shop in a pantomime! - -The bay in which we had taken refuge was, in consequence of the work -there performed, named "Shift-Rudder Bay." - -_Sunday, August 29th._--At noon we were again under weigh, Captain Nares -having ascended a high hill during the forenoon, from which he had -observed an opening in the pack by which we might proceed. Cape Beechey -was easily rounded; but, in consequence of the floes closing into the -land, we had a very narrow escape of being caught whilst going round -Cape Frederick VII., and it was only by pressing the ship at her utmost -speed that we succeeded in rounding it in safety. Two minutes after we -were round, the floe came into contact with the high steep side of the -cape, crumbling against it and piling up hummock on hummock from the -irresistible force of the outside pressure. What would have been the -fate of our poor little frail ship had she been caught between these two -stupendous works of nature? - -The ice had now assumed a totally different character from any that we -had hitherto seen, being infinitely more massive and heavy. The -thickness was estimated at from eighty to one hundred feet, whilst the -hummocks formed along the shore and round the edges of the floes were -fully twenty-five and thirty feet in height. - -These large hummocks received from us the name of "floe-bergs," the term -being intended to convey the idea of masses of ice more bulky than -ordinary hummocks, and formed in a different way. Some of these huge -fragments that fringed the coast line were fully sixty feet in height, -yet they were _aground_ in some ten and twelve fathoms of water! This -will give some idea of the massive nature of the ice with which we were -contending. The region of icebergs, the creation of land glaciers, had -been passed, and in their place were substituted these floe-bergs, the -production of a floating glacier. - -To contend with this massive ice required the greatest care and -judgment, for little respect is shown to the unfortunate vessel that is -exposed to the fatal embrace of what has been aptly termed by our old -Arctic navigators "ye unmercifull yce." Before midnight the ship was -secured to a large floe in Lincoln Bay, the pack having again closed in -to the land, thereby obstructing our advance. - -The positions of the different bays and headlands on the western side of -Robeson Channel we found strangely at variance with the positions -assigned to them on the latest American chart; indeed, the shore, as -delineated, was quite unrecognizable. The land on the opposite side of -the channel seemed, on the contrary, to be very accurately laid down. - -With the exception of a little lemming (_Myodes torquatus_), captured by -Captain Nares when he landed in the morning, a solitary dovekie (_Uria -grylle_), fluttering about in the ice-encumbered waters, was the only -living thing seen during the day. The first-named little animal was the -first of its species caught alive, and excited considerable interest, -every one being desirous of obtaining a peep at the diminutive little -quadruped. One man, more fortunate than his messmates, was literally -besieged, by those less lucky than himself in seeing the animal, with -numerous questions regarding its appearance. When asked its colour the -man hesitated, finding it difficult to describe; but suddenly -brightening up he said, "Why, _lemon_ colour, of course!" an answer that -appeared quite satisfactory, agreeing, as it did, so well with its name! - -These little mouse-like creatures are the smallest, yet the most -numerous and common, of all quadrupeds in the Arctic regions. They are -extremely pugnacious and fearless, and often attract attention, when -they would otherwise be unobserved, by their shrill cries of rage at an -approaching step. They hibernate in burrows under the snow, and live -during the summer on the scant vegetation of these regions. When roasted -and served up on toast, like sparrows, they were found to be excellent -eating, although provokingly small. - -On the same hill where the capture of this little animal was effected, -our naturalist picked up a marine shell (_Astarte borealis_), about a -mile from the beach, and at least a hundred and fifty feet above the -level of the sea. This shell was in excellent preservation, the -epidermis still adhering, and in a perfect state. - -The apparent freshness of this specimen gave rise to many conjectures -regarding the theory of the upheaval of the land, the evidence pointing -conclusively to its being both recent and rapid. These regions offer a -wide field for the geologist and student of natural history. - -_Monday, August 30th._--During the forenoon, there being no prospect of -pushing forward, a large depot of provisions, consisting of one thousand -rations, was landed. This depot was established for the use of -travelling parties from the "Discovery," or from our own ship should it -be determined to despatch any to the southward. It was not without some -difficulty that the heavy casks were transported from the boats to a -suitable position sufficiently removed from the encroachments of the -pack. Their transit was only effected by a nautical process known as -"parbuckling," by which casks and barrels are either hauled up or -lowered down steep inclines. - -On the brow of the hill immediately above the depot a large cairn was -erected, in which the usual records were deposited; the provisions -themselves being so placed as to form a very conspicuous landmark to any -ship passing to the northward, or to any sledge party travelling along -the coast line. Whilst engaged in these operations, the pack was -observed to slacken considerably, several leads of water opening to the -northward, which we fondly hoped would afford us an easy passage towards -the attainment of that object which was ever uppermost in our thoughts, -and for which we were ready and willing to make any sacrifice--the -object of exploring the unknown region, and of reaching a high northern -latitude. - -Steam was accordingly quickly raised, and another attempt made to -proceed; but alas! having incautiously been tempted by promising lanes -of water to stray farther from the land than had hitherto been our -custom, we were soon hopelessly beset by very heavy ice, of at least -eighty or one hundred feet in thickness, and fully ten feet above the -surface of the water. So high was it that our boats, suspended at the -davits, were seriously endangered, and had in consequence to be "turned -in" to avoid being crushed altogether. We were, fortunately, surrounded -by loose pieces of broken-off ice, which acting as cushions between the -ship and the more massive floes, thereby saved the "Alert" from an -unpleasant nip. As there was no saying when we might be deprived of the -friendly aid of these "buffers," by any sudden movement of the pack, -steam was kept ready in both boilers in order that we might take -immediate advantage of any such motion for the purpose of extricating -our vessel from her very unpleasant and perilous position. - -An anxious night was spent by all on board, and many ineffectual -attempts were made to push our way through cracks in the pack that -appeared to be inclined to open. Sleep was out of the question--indeed, -was hardly thought of--every one being prepared, with his little bag of -necessaries, to abandon the ship when such an order, which seemed -inevitable, should be given. - -On the following day, by dint of much labour, a space was cleared round -the stern of the vessel, which enabled us to ship our rudder, and, the -ice having slackened a little, by constantly steaming ahead and astern -we succeeded in clearing a larger space in which the ship could be -worked, when, boldly attacking the pack, we forced our way through, and -with relieved minds and thankful hearts extricated ourselves from our -dangerous position, and once more secured the ship in Lincoln Bay. The -time occupied in steaming through the pack, a distance of about a mile, -was exactly five hours! - -The ice was observed to be still tightly packed against Cape Union, and -consequently hindered us from pushing on. - -We had much reason to be grateful for our safe deliverance from the -pack, for, shortly after our extrication, a heavy gale sprang up from -the S.W., the effect of which on the ship, beset in such ponderous ice, -must have been disastrous in the extreme, and would in all probability -have been fatal. Ice navigators, however, are not, as a rule, prone to -indulge in ideas as to "what _might_ have occurred had this or that -happened:" their thoughts and minds must be directed entirely to the -present and the future, only too happy and thankful, as the days go by, -to find they still have their own good vessel to sustain them, and carry -them through another day. To our engines we owed a deep debt of -gratitude, for without the powerful aid of steam we should have been -unable, before the gale burst upon us, to have effected our deliverance. - -Towards midnight the gale freshened considerably, snow fell, and the -weather altogether had a very ugly and threatening appearance. We, -however, consoled ourselves with the hope that it would clear the ice -out of the channel, and thus enable us to proceed. The noise of the pack -grinding and squeezing as it was tossed about by a short turbulent sea -was anything but pleasing to listen to, resembling in a measure the -sound created by the dashing of the surf over a rock-bound coast. One -can easily imagine the feelings of those old navigators, in their frail -little barks, which gave rise to the expression that "the irksome noyse -of the yce bred strange conceits among us." Very "irksome" indeed was -that noise to us, and many were the "strange conceits" that we indulged -in as we listened to the soughing of the wind and the crashing of the -ice! - -_Wednesday, September 1st_, must always be regarded, at least by all -those connected with, or interested in, Arctic research, as a red-letter -day in the annals of naval enterprise, and indeed in English history, -for on this day a British man-of-war reached a higher northern latitude -than had ever yet been reached by any ship, and we had the extreme -gratification of hoisting the colours at noon to celebrate the event. - -Never was an ensign hoisted by such a number of eager and willing hands. -All were desirous of participating in this act, and of sharing the -honours of this important proceeding. - -Our success in thus attaining a high position was due entirely to the -S.W. gale, which blew with such fury, that by nine o'clock in the -forenoon the pack was driven so far off the land that a narrow channel -of water was left extending to the northward along the coast line. We -were not long in availing ourselves of this grand opportunity. The ice -anchors were quickly hauled on board, sail was made, and, with the steam -ready in case it should be required, we were soon bowling along at the -rate of ten knots an hour, "and _northwards_ aye we fled." So far had -the pack been blown off the shore, that the channel of water was fully -three miles in breadth. - -It would be impossible to describe the feelings of those on board the -"Alert" at this unexpected piece of good fortune; for the lateness of -the season, combined with the unprecedented solidity of the ice, had in -a measure damped our ardour and forced us to realize the apparent -hopelessness of attaining, this year, a high northern latitude. Eagerly -and anxiously were the different reports from the crow's-nest listened -to, and still to the delight of all came down the cheery words, "Water, -plenty of water ahead, and no ice in sight." - -Every one was joyous and elated as, at noon, they assembled round the -ward-room table to inaugurate, in a glass of Madeira, generously -supplied by our wine caterer, the auspicious event, and to wish success -to their flag. - -Unfortunately snow was falling heavily, and the weather was so thick -that little could be seen. We could just make out that the land along -which we were steering, and which trended to the N.E., was composed of -high cliffs with numerous ravines and valleys running down to the -water's edge; but, to our disappointment, we failed to observe either -harbour or bay, or any place that would afford a refuge or protection of -any description for the ship. Arctic navigation, like everything else, -has its dark as well as its bright side! - -After rounding Cape Union the coast trended away to the westward of -north, and the wind, which had hitherto been blowing so fresh, suddenly -subsided. So did our joyful anticipations, for one short hour after our -ensign had fluttered out so gaily before the breeze, we were stopped by -a barrier of ice of great thickness, through which there was no prospect -of penetrating. The land also appeared to lose the bold rugged character -that had been such a prominent feature between Lincoln Bay and Cape -Union, and now assumed an undulating form as it trended away to the -N.W., the coast being low and entirely covered with snow. - -Having set our minds at rest that a farther advance, for the present, -was perfectly impracticable, we reluctantly retraced our steps to the -southward for about a mile, and secured the ship inside a fringe of -grounded floe-bergs that lined the coast and which promised to afford us -protection, in fact, the only protection, from the irresistible pressure -of the pack. A depot of provisions, consisting of two thousand rations, -was immediately landed, in order to guard against all accidents that -might happen to the ship, and also to be of use to our southern -travelling parties, should we succeed in reaching a higher latitude in -the ship. The weather still continued thick; but during a clear interval -we succeeded in getting a good view to the northward from the summit of -a hill about two hundred and fifty feet above the level of the sea. But -it was a most cheerless scene that presented itself in that direction. -Nothing but ice, tight and impassable, was to be seen--a solid -impenetrable mass that no amount of imagination or theoretical belief -could ever twist into an "open Polar Sea"! - -We were reluctantly compelled to come to the conclusion that we had in -reality arrived on the shore of the Polar Ocean; a frozen sea, of such a -character as utterly to preclude the possibility of its being navigated -by a ship; a wide expanse of ice and snow, whose impenetrable fastnesses -seemed to defy the puny efforts of mortal men to invade and expose their -hitherto sealed and hidden mysteries. Still we did not give up all hope -of reaching a higher northern position in the ship. We knew the -wonderful effect that a gale of wind would produce on the pack, and we -hoped when the weather cleared, we should still be able to see, and -reach, land to the northward. - -For the present then we could only put our trust in Providence, who had -already guarded and favoured us almost beyond our most sanguine -expectations, and pray that He might still continue to watch over and -protect us, and grant us such a measure of success as would increase our -knowledge of this world and thereby add to His glory. - - - - -CHAPTER XI. - -FLOE-BERG BEACH. - - - "The cold earth slept below, - Above the cold sky shone, - And all around - With a chilling sound, - From caves of ice and fields of snow - The breath of night like death did flow - Beneath the sinking moon." - - SHELLEY. - -In order more effectually to ensure the safety of the ship, the men were -at once employed in removing a large quantity of loose ice, directly -inside the line of friendly floe-bergs, so as to allow the vessel to be -hauled farther in and thus obtain more complete protection from the -encroachments of the pack. This was no easy work, for the wind had again -sprung up and blew with terrific violence, whilst the temperature had -fallen as much as ten degrees below the freezing point. - -Before we had succeeded in completing our preparations a violent squall -struck the ship, the lines by which she was temporarily held parted, and -we were blown clean out from our harbour of refuge. Steam was instantly -raised, and an anchor let go, which fortunately brought us up. During -the succeeding hours the gale blew with increased fury, but being an -off-shore wind, we were in a measure protected, whilst it had the effect -of driving the pack off, so as to raise our hopes at the prospect of -again proceeding northward. - -Suddenly, without any warning, the wind shifted, and drove the whole -body of the pack towards the land. Our danger now was imminent. To be -caught between the fast closing ice and the grounded floe-bergs would be -certain destruction, to escape to the southward before the pack impinged -on Cape Union was quite out of the question, and to steam into the pack -would be madness. Our only hope of safety was to endeavour to haul the -ship inside the grounded floe-bergs, and again avail ourselves of their -friendly protection. No time was to be lost; it was a case of almost -life and death to us. The men, always to be depended upon in a crisis -like the present, responded to the call with alacrity, and by dint of -hard work we succeeded in hauling the ship into a safe position. We were -not a moment too soon: it was a race between the ice and the ship, in -which the latter was, fortunately for us, the victor. Scarcely had we -reached our place of refuge when the pack came into contact with the -bergs, scrunching and squeezing in a most unpleasant manner as it swept -by, and serving to illustrate, in a very practical way, the dreadful -fate to which we should have been subjected had we not been fortunate -enough to escape in time. - -It is difficult to imagine a more desolate position to pass a winter -than the one in which we were placed. Our ship was on an exposed and, -apparently, unsafe coast, without even the protection of a bay, within -one hundred yards of a low undulating beach, on which, should any -extraordinary pressure of the pack destroy our protecting bergs, we must -inevitably be forced and wrecked, exposed to all the rigours of an -Arctic winter; and yet, notwithstanding these unenviable drawbacks, the -official announcement that this place had been decided upon as our -winter quarters was received with a deep feeling of relief and -thankfulness. This determination was not, however, arrived at for some -days, when, from careful watching of the pack, it was decided that a -farther advance was absolutely impossible. - -Winter was advancing upon us with rapid strides, eager to seize us in -its icy grasp; so quickly, indeed, that in two days we were able to -_walk on shore_ on the new and rapidly forming ice. The now steadily -falling temperature was another and a sure indication that the navigable -season was at an end. - -Without a harbour or projecting headland of any description to protect -our good ship from the furious gusts that we must naturally expect, the -"Alert" lay, apparently, in a vast frozen ocean, having land on one -side, but bounded on the other by the chaotic and illimitable polar -pack. - -The land had already assumed a wintry aspect, and the ship, to be in -unison with her surroundings, had also put on a garb of snow and ice, -each spar and each rope being double its ordinary thickness from the -accumulation of frost rime. Everything was white, solemn, and motionless -around us; no voice of bird or beast was heard to disturb the silence. -All was as still and silent as the tomb--a silence that until then had -never been broken by the presence of man. - - "No other noyse, nor people's troublous cries, - As still are wont to annoy the walled towne, - Might there be heard, but carelesse quiet lyes, - Wrapt in eternal silence far from enemyes." - -Night, to which we had long been strangers, gradually came upon us, the -darkness increasing perceptibly as each day passed away. From the 3rd of -September, on which day the sun set at midnight, the days decreased in -length, and the stars were again seen to twinkle in the heavens. - -From a neighbouring hill we obtained a clear and unobstructed view of -our surroundings. The coast continued to the N.W. in a succession of -large bays, terminating in an abrupt cape some forty miles distant. In -order to assimilate the names of the various bays and headlands with -those of the American chart, this extreme point was called Cape Joseph -Henry. Beyond Cape Joseph Henry all was conjecture. It might be the -southern extreme of a large bay or inlet, or it might be the northern -termination of land. No land of any description could be seen to the -northward--nothing but the rugged pack. So formidable and compact -appeared this icy barrier that it seemed to stand out bold and resolute -in its strength, effectually setting at defiance the puny efforts of man -to penetrate its solidity, saying, as it were, "Thus far shalt thou go, -and no farther." And, indeed, we had much cause to be thankful to Him -who had hitherto watched over and protected us in many dangers, and who -had allowed us to penetrate thus far into this remote and unknown -portion of the globe. - -A long range of high hills could be seen to the westward, whilst on the -opposite side of the channel the distant land of Greenland was -indistinctly observed, its most northern point bearing about N.E. -(_true_).[1] - -The positions of the northern extremes of land, on either side of the -channel, were, for a time, a matter of some uncertainty, and it was -really doubtful which was situated in the highest latitude. It was not -until after the return of the autumn sledging parties that this -important question was definitely decided, the land on the western side -proving to be nearest the Pole. - -It must not be imagined, because farther progress in the ship had -ceased, that our labours had in any way diminished; on the contrary, we -felt that our real work was about to commence: a work in which we should -all share in a greater or less degree, and a work the achievement of -which had been our sole engrossing thought since leaving England. - -Before finally deciding upon the position of our winter quarters, -Captain Nares was desirous of ascertaining whether a more protected spot -could be found for the ship in the numerous bays to the N.W. than the -exposed position she then occupied. - -Accordingly, early on the 5th of September, Aldrich and myself started -away with a couple of sledges, each drawn by a team of eight dogs, under -the guidance of Frederic the Eskimo, and Petersen, the Danish -dog-driver. Our route lay along the edge of the coast, where, at times, -we were able to take advantage of the ice-foot on which to travel; but -as a rule there was no continuity of this land-ice, and we were -compelled to strike across an undulating country, deeply covered with -snow, ascending hills frequently as high as two and three hundred feet -above the level of the sea, whence we obtained good views of the -surrounding country. The general direction in which we travelled was -N.W., the coast line being a series of indentations in the land, some of -such a size as to form fine harbours and bays; but, alas! they could not -be utilized for our ship, for they were rendered unapproachable by a -chain of high hummocks extending in every case across the entrances, -whilst the water in the harbours appeared to be permanently frozen, and -therefore inaccessible for a vessel. - -It was a novel sensation to us to be thus dashing along on our light -sledges, exploring a perfectly unknown country: a wild and barren tract -of land, a snow-covered expanse, receding from our view in long -undulations into the interior, until lost amongst the high -conical-shaped hills of from one to two thousand feet in height, that -invariably form the chief feature of Arctic scenery in these high -latitudes. At noon we made a brief halt for luncheon, our appetites -having been rendered doubly keen by the sharp cold air of a temperature -some twenty degrees below freezing point; but which had, until the halt -was called, been unheeded, the constant jumping on and off the sledge -and assisting the dogs over difficulties having kept us in a perfect -glow. Innocently pulling off our mitts, we commenced a vigorous -onslaught upon the Australian beef with which we had supplied ourselves; -but the first contact of our fingers with the handles of the knives -proved the folly of such a proceeding, and compelled us again to resume -our mitts. These, however, were now frozen so hard that they were with -difficulty put on! Petersen using a tin cup to drink a little rum mixed -with snow, and disregarding his mitts, burnt his hand rather severely, -whilst we were all obliged to rub the edge of the cup well with our -hands before putting it to our lips! - -These little inconveniences were to us a source of great merriment; in -fact, they must really be experienced before they can be properly and -thoroughly appreciated! - -The Eskimo dogs appear to me to be very differently constituted to their -more civilized brethren. In England a halt for lunch whilst shooting is -a signal for all the dogs to assemble and importune for fragments of the -feast, which they greedily devour. My own dog "Nellie" would never be -satisfied without obtaining a very large share of any impromptu meal. -With the Eskimo dogs it is quite different. As soon as the sledges are -halted they lie down and sleep, and rarely attempt to move until they -are required to do so. Should a piece of meat be thrown to them they may -condescend to swallow it; but they turn up their noses at a piece of -biscuit, utterly despising it as an article of food. Yet these dogs are -excessively voracious, and always hungry! Nothing in the shape of fresh -meat, or even skin, is safe from their insatiable voracity; even the -thongs that are used for lashing the different parts of a sledge -together, unless they have been well rubbed over with tar, are unsafe, -and will most assuredly be gnawed off. Notwithstanding this, they have -little liking for cooked meat, positively refuse biscuit, and are not -troublesome when they observe you eating. - -We were _en route_ again directly our luncheon was consumed, the dogs -starting off with renewed vigour and speed after their short rest, when -we came suddenly upon a precipitous ravine, almost too late to stop our -team in their headlong career. By springing out of the sledge and -holding on with might and main, we just succeeded in stopping them in -time, pulling up almost on the very brink of the precipice. Retracing -our steps for a short distance, we left the hills, and continued our -course along the coast line, until our farther progress was checked by -water, a channel connecting two large bays, which from their shape -afterwards went by the name of Dumb-bell Bay. - -[Illustration: DOG-SLEDGE IN DIFFICULTIES.] - -Swimming about in this little sheet of water was a small flock of -eider-ducks, eleven in number, that appeared to be as much surprised at -beholding us as we were at seeing them. They did not, however, seem -disposed to fly away. The only weapon we had was a rifle with twelve -rounds of ammunition. With this we commenced hostilities, rejoicing in -the anticipation of a fresh-meat meal when we returned to the ship. So -utterly unconcerned did they appear that we actually succeeded in -shooting five before the remainder took flight; but to our great chagrin -we were unable to possess ourselves of any of our victims, as they had -unfortunately all fallen into the water _just_ out of our reach. This -was very tantalizing, as neither of us felt inclined to risk being -frozen for the sake even of roast duck by plunging in after them. We -were reluctantly compelled to leave them. During the following week, -however, they were recovered, having all been frozen together in the -water. With the exception of these birds, no animal life was seen, -although we observed numerous traces of ptarmigan and lemmings. Tufts of -saxifrage and some grasses were seen, but so thickly was the land -covered with snow that it was impossible to arrive at any conclusion -regarding the vegetation of the country. - -In consequence of the report that we brought back, Floe-berg Beach was -decided upon as the position of the "Alert's" winter quarters, and -preparations were immediately made for securing the ship, and for making -as extensive an exploration of the land to the northward as the duration -of light would admit. - -The land in our immediate vicinity was also very naturally an object of -special interest to us. Speculations were rife regarding its extent and -formation. The possibility of obtaining game of any description was a -matter of much importance to us who were doomed to pass so many months -in these icy solitudes. Alas! any hopes that we had cherished in this -respect were soon found to be fallacious. The land, for the succeeding -eight months, proved to be as devoid of life as its appearance was -sterile and desolate. - -On the 9th of September Aldrich went away with the dog-sledges, -accompanied by two or three of his messmates, for three days, for the -purpose of more thoroughly exploring the country in the hopes of -obtaining game. - -On the 11th I left the ship with Parr and Egerton and eighteen men, with -the object of advancing a couple of boats to the northward along the -proposed route of exploration. It was thought that they might prove -useful during the future sledging operations of the expedition. We came -back in four days, having successfully accomplished our mission. - -On our return journey we encountered a furious gale of wind, which broke -up the ice along the coast line, and forced us to drag our sledges over -the hills, the summits of which were almost bare, the force of the gale -having blown the snow completely off. Any one who has ever attempted to -drag a sledge over a rough stony road will know the severe toil and -labour that is required to be exerted in order to make any progress. -Crossing a bay we made a short halt for luncheon on the ice, under the -lee of a high hummock, and narrowly escaped destruction from having -selected such a spot for a halt. Without our observing it, the ice began -breaking up, and it was only by strenuous exertions that we succeeded in -reaching the shore in safety, whence we observed the ice on which we had -recently been encamped drifting in small fragments to seaward. If this -disruption had not been observed in time, nothing short of a miracle -could have saved us. - -The violence of the gale was so terrific that pebbles and shingle were -blown along by its force, mercilessly striking our faces and causing -acute pain. Still we had to struggle onwards, for there was no possible -lee under which we could pitch our tents and obtain shelter. An attempt -to do so was unsuccessful, and had to be abandoned. - -One of the men, failing from sheer exhaustion, had to be carried on the -sledge. This seriously added to our difficulties, for it increased the -load which the wearied sledgers had to drag, whilst it diminished the -power of the draggers. But the indomitable spirit and pluck of the -British sailor overcame all obstacles, and after an arduous march of -eighteen hours in the face of a furious hurricane, we arrived, to our no -small relief, alongside the "Alert." Never was a goal attained with more -pleasure and satisfaction than was our Arctic home reached that night by -the fatigued and half-blinded sledge travellers. Untrained as they were, -this forced march had seriously overtaxed their strength and entailed -much suffering. Some few were, on their return, placed under the -doctor's hands. - -Meanwhile those remaining on board the ship, but few in number, spent an -anxious and trying time. - -The young ice, by which the ship was surrounded, had been completely -broken up by the fury of the gale, and had disappeared; and had it not -been for the protecting grounded floe-bergs, small mercy would have been -shown to the good ship "Alert," by "ye thick-ribbed ice." - -Small fragments of the pack, large enough, however, to be unpleasant -and disagreeable neighbours, would occasionally find their way between -the floe-bergs, and drift about in our immediate vicinity. These it was -our object to secure as speedily as possible, otherwise their incessant -movement backwards and forwards with the tide would break up the young -ice, or even prevent it from forming. The ominous grinding noise of the -pack, as it swayed to and fro in the channel, and the terrible war that -appeared to be raging between the floes as they came into furious -contact with each other, pulverizing their sides or rending huge -fragments from their edges, was a sound and sight that struck us with -wonder and awe. - -The grandeur and solemnity of the scene gave rise to thoughts of our own -weakness and insignificance amidst these wonders of the far north. - -On the morning after our return on board, the wind having subsided -considerably, and a large channel of water existing between the land and -the pack, Captain Nares determined upon seeking more secure and -sheltered winter quarters in one of the numerous bays immediately to the -northward of our present position, in the hope that the gale would have -broken up the ice and so afforded us an entrance. - -Steam was quickly raised and the rudder shipped; but from some, at that -time, unknown cause we were unable to lower the screw into its place, or -rather to enter the shaft. Our chance therefore of getting away was -lost, as before midnight the gale was blowing as furiously as ever. The -following day, however, the weather again cleared up, and renewed -attempts were made to ship the screw, but always without success. Whilst -so engaged a shift of wind occurred, and we had the mortification of -seeing the whole body of the pack close the channel of water and resume -its place along the coast, where it remained during the entire winter, -effectually sealing us up. We had good reason to be thankful to our -screw for causing our detention, for a subsequent examination of the -coast proved only too plainly that the ice had not been broken up and -blown out of any of the harbours that we should have sought, and that we -should not have found any better sheltered position than the one we then -occupied. In all probability we should have been caught by the fast -closing ice--an occurrence rather unpleasant even to speculate upon. We -afterwards discovered the reason for the failure of our attempts to ship -the screw. On lowering it into the water, the ice formed so quickly in -the "boss" that it effectually prevented the shaft from entering! - -The ship was now secured by lines to the floe-bergs, and by anchors and -cables to the shore, until she should be permanently frozen in. - -We also busily engaged ourselves in making the necessary preparations -for the autumn sledging operations. Travelling garments were issued, -tents thoroughly overhauled, and sledges prepared. - -On the 22nd of September Aldrich was despatched with three men and two -dog-sledges, provisioned for fourteen days, as a sort of pioneering -expedition; his orders being to proceed, if possible, as far as Cape -Joseph Henry, there to erect a cairn and deposit a record with full -information regarding the practicability of travelling, that would be of -use to the main party which would follow him in a few days. - -By the 25th the ice had again formed around the ship, and was of -sufficient thickness to bear heavy weights. This was the day selected -for the departure of the sledging parties. The force consisted of three -eight-men sledges, officered by Parr and May, the whole under my -command. My sledge was named the "Marco Polo;" Parr's, the "Victoria;" -and May's, the "Hercules." My orders were to advance as far to the -northward, along the land, as possible, and at our extreme position to -establish a large depot of provisions in readiness for the use of the -main exploring parties that would be despatched in that direction during -the ensuing spring. Our provisions were all carefully weighed and -packed; the maximum weight dragged by each man on leaving the ship was -201 lbs., decreasing at the rate of 3 lbs. per diem due to the -consumption of provisions. The slight experience that we obtained during -the previous few days' sledging stood us now in good stead; the men who -had recently been so employed being regarded as veterans in sledge work -by those who were for the first time being initiated into its mysteries. -All started in the very best spirits, animated by the same desire to do -their utmost, and to achieve, so far as in them lay, success and honour -for the expedition. - -The details connected with the sledging operations must have a chapter -to themselves. I make no apology for not entering more fully into the -journeys performed by Aldrich and others, as the description of one -sledging expedition suffices for all, and I am, of course, best able to -describe those in which I was myself personally engaged. - - -FOOTNOTE: - - [1] All compass bearings referred to are _true_, unless stated to be - _magnetic_. - - - - -CHAPTER XII. - -AUTUMN TRAVELLING. - - - "When suddenly a grosse fog over spred, - With his dull vapour all that desert has, - And heaven's cheerfull face enveloped; - That all things one, and one as nothing was, - And this great universe seemed one confused mass. - - "Thereat they greatly were dismay'd, ne wist - How to direct theyr way in darknes wide; - But feared to wander in that wastefull miste, - For tombling into mischiefe unespyde: - Worse is the danger hidden than descride." - - SPENSER. - -There are, I am sure, many among those "who stay at home at ease" who -have little or no idea of what sledge travelling in the Arctic Regions -is like, and who even fail to realize that it entails hard work of any -description. - -Their imaginations picture the travellers seated on sledges, comfortably -wrapped up in shawls and furs, and drawn by a team of dogs or reindeer -gaily caparisoned, with their bells jingling as they dash along at a -rapid pace over a smooth plain of snow and ice. They imagine that after -the toil of the day is over a large fire is built up, and, having -obtained some salmon, venison, or other product of the chase, a -sumptuous meal is cooked and discussed, after which the sledge -travellers compose themselves to sleep in a nice warm snow-house or -wooden hut constructed by their attendants. All this sounds very -delightful, and is, to my personal knowledge, believed to be a fairly -true picture of Arctic life by a large majority of people. Unfortunately -it is the very reverse of sledge life on the shores of the Polar Ocean. -Let us see what it is like in reality. There, great climatic hardships -have to be endured, combined with physical labour of no ordinary -description. No change or variety of any sort can be made in the fare, -nor can more than a certain allowance be allotted to each individual. -When that is consumed, hunger must be borne with patience until the time -has arrived for the next meal, for until that is due nothing is -obtainable. - -For shelter at night time, a tent made of the very lightest material -(for economy of weight is the most important point to be considered in -sledge travelling) is all the covering to protect the travellers from -the furious onslaughts of a biting wind, always accompanied by a -blinding snow-drift. So searching is the latter that in spite of all -efforts it will penetrate through every little orifice into the tent, -covering everything inside with a layer of minute snow crystals, and -rendering an uncomfortable night still more comfortless and -disagreeable. Rolled up in their bags, with the hard frozen sea as their -couch, affording little rest to their aching and frost-bitten limbs, the -wearied sledgers vainly attempt in sleep to become oblivious to the -present. As for a fire by which circulation might be restored in their -numbed extremities, that is quite out of the question. A limited amount -of spirits of wine, barely sufficient to cook the allowance of -provisions, is all the fuel with which they are supplied. Even if the -material for making a fire, such as driftwood, was available, it would -be impossible to benefit by it, for it could not be lighted in the tent, -whilst outside, under such circumstances as I have related, it would be -impracticable. - -This is a slight sketch of what has to be endured by the Polar sledge -traveller; but a cheerful spirit, a contented mind, and an ardent desire -to achieve success are quite sufficient to enable him to withstand the -attendant hardships, and even to laugh at and treat them with contempt. - -I cannot do better than quote the words of Sir George Nares, who, -addressing our men before leaving England, whilst explaining to them the -nature of the work that they were about to engage in, and speaking from -his own personal previous experience of sledge life, said, "That if they -could imagine the hardest work they had ever been called upon to perform -in their lives intensified to the utmost degree, it would only be as -child's play in comparison with the work they would have to perform -whilst sledging!" - -These prophetic words were fully realized, and were often recalled and -commented on by the men during their initiation into the work of -sledging. - -The autumn sledge travelling has been alluded to by a very distinguished -and successful explorer in the Arctic Regions, as "the very acme of -discomfort." In the accuracy of this statement we, one and all, fully -concurred. - -The principal reasons that sledging at this period of the year is more -disagreeable than in the spring are, first, because the rapidly -decreasing light caused by the sun's altitude lessening day by day is -decidedly opposed to either work or comfort. Before our return from -sledging, the sun had illumined for the last time, until its -reappearance the following year, the summits of the snow-covered hills -in the vicinity of the "Alert's" winter quarters, and had sunk, slowly -and majestically, beneath the southern horizon, bequeathing to us only -for a short time a few bright rays until the long polar night wrapped us -in its sombre mantle, and enveloped us in gloom and obscurity for many -months. - - "'Tis gone, that bright and orbed blaze, - Fast fading from our wistful gaze; - Yon mantling cloud has hid from sight - The last faint pulse of quivering light." - -A few hours of twilight, therefore, were all we had in which to work. -Candles we had none. Our breakfast before we started in the morning and -our supper after we halted in the evening had to be discussed in gloomy -darkness. Our notes had to be written in our journals before entering -the tent, even at the risk of frost-bitten fingers. - -In the second place, at this time of the year the ice, over which the -sledges have to be dragged, is of very recent formation, and is -consequently weak and dangerous. The travellers are therefore more -liable to immersion by breaking through the thin ice at this period of -the season than they are during the spring, or indeed at any other time. -Young, and therefore smooth and level ice, covered with a treacherous -layer of snow, often entices the unwary to turn from the rougher but -stronger floes to travel on its flat plain surface. An immersion is -invariably the result. Sometimes the leading men on the drag-ropes break -through this weak ice first, and, by so doing, time is given to stop and -save the sledge; but very often the ice directly under the sledge gives -way without previous warning, when every effort must be at once directed -to save the sledge. Although this is always successful it is generally -at the expense of the greater part of the biscuit, which is so saturated -with salt water as to be uneatable, and the wetting, and the consequent -freezing, of the tent with all its appurtenances. Nothing more wretched -and miserable can be conceived than having to pass the night in a -stiffly frozen sleeping bag, inside a tent, which at the best of times -is barely large enough to accommodate the party of men for whom it is -allotted, but which has been considerably shrunk by being frozen. Not -the least unpleasant part is the process of pitching it, for having -become as hard as a piece of board, it is with great difficulty -unfolded; more especially as this operation has to be performed after -the fatigues of a hard day's sledging, by wearied men, in such a -temperature that it is impossible to expose the hands bare to the cold, -and it must therefore be carried out with mittens on. - -The constant wetting of the feet also renders the men more liable to -frost-bites; whilst the heavy fall of snow, usually experienced in these -regions during the autumn, renders the work ten times more arduous. For -the air thus becomes so thick that it is impossible to see many yards -ahead, and we have to trust solely to a compass as a guide. We might, in -truth, fairly quote the lines from Spenser's "Faerie Queene," at the -heading of the present chapter, as illustrating our difficulties in -this respect-- - - "That all things one, and one as nothing was, - And this great universe seemed one confused mass." - -And lastly this continual breaking through the ice of both men and -sledge, combined with the heavy and incessant fall of snow, renders the -task of walking and dragging a sledge one of extreme labour and anxiety. -These were the little difficulties we had to experience during our -novitiate in this autumn sledge travelling, and they must be generally -expected by explorers who go away so late in the year. - -[Illustration: START OF THE AUTUMN SLEDGES.] - -In a future chapter I propose to give a full account of the routine of -sledge life, of the equipment and scale of provisions, and of all other -details connected with sledging operations in the Arctic Regions. I will -now, therefore, proceed at once to give a brief account of our journey, -for the purpose of laying out a depot in the autumn, which occupied -three weeks of very severe and harassing work. - -At eight o'clock, on the 25th of September, the three officers -commanding sledges, myself and Lieutenants Parr and May, assembled at -breakfast in sledging costume, and a rattling good breakfast our caterer -gave us. At 8.15 our standards were displayed on the sledges, the ship -hoisting the ensign. At 8.30 the crews took up their stations alongside -their respective sledges, and the order was given to march. Our men -stepped out bravely, and as they did so three hearty cheers resounded -from the ship. I called a halt and returned the salute with as much -emphasis as twenty-four powerful pairs of lungs could give, and then -continued the march. The young ice seemed strong enough to bear, so -leaving the ice foot, on which the travelling was heavy, we ventured on -the new ice. But we had not gone more than a mile when, to my horror, -Parr's sledge, the "Victoria," went through! It was a case of all hands -to the rescue, and after fifteen minutes of hard tugging and hauling we -succeeded in dragging it upon a firm piece of ice. But everything was -thoroughly saturated. There was nothing for it but to send back at once -for another sledge and dry things. This being done, we again proceeded -for about three miles, when suddenly I heard a crack, and looking round, -there was my sledge through! We dragged it on shore, and unpacking at -once, I was glad to find that we had suffered less than the "Victoria;" -but it was bad enough. Our tent and gear at the top were of course -saturated, and nearly all our biscuit spoilt. However, I did not think -it advisable to return, so re-packing we made another start, and shortly -afterwards were rejoined by Parr. After marching for twelve miles I -halted for the night with the temperature 3 deg. below zero, the tent frozen -hard and shrunk considerably. Next day we marched thirteen miles over -ice whose blue uneven surface was as smooth as glass, making it very -hard work for the men, who were sorely put to it to maintain their -footing. They worked splendidly, trudging merrily along, making light of -the heavy loads and the treacherous ice, thinking only of performing a -good day's work, and of advancing the depot as far north as possible. - -On the third day, being unable to round a point of land owing to several -lanes of water, we were obliged to unload the sledges and carry the -things piecemeal across a neck of land about two miles in width and a -hundred feet above the level of the sea. On the same evening snow began -to fall, and from that time it fell incessantly until our return to the -ship, increasing in depth day by day. This, combined with the softness -of the snow as it fell, seriously impeded our advance, and we were -frequently obliged to halt our sledges whilst the men were employed -clearing a road with the shovels. So impervious was the air, owing to -the heavy fall of snow, that it was only occasionally that we were able -to obtain glimpses of the land as we journeyed onwards, rendering it -most difficult to make out its conformation, or even the direction in -which the coast line trended. - -From the unaccustomed work of dragging, the shoulders of the men began -to evince symptoms of rawness, although they constantly shifted their -drag belts from one shoulder to the other. In spite of these little -drawbacks, and the dull overcast weather that generally prevailed, the -spirits of the men never flagged, and every night the labour of the day -would be forgotten, and singing and laughter would be the only sounds -heard issuing from our little camp, long after we had comfortably -settled ourselves in our sleeping bags. - -It was amusing to listen to the quaint remarks and witty conversation of -the men, as, reclining in their bags and smoking their pipes, they -would, regardless of the generally dreaded presence of the commander, -broach lower deck topics, and freely discuss and criticize them. I was -much surprised at the extensive Arctic knowledge which they possessed, -showing that they had read largely on this subject, and were anxious to -learn yet more. - -I must own that the subject of eating and drinking monopolized a very -large share of the conversation; nor did they only occupy our minds -whilst awake, for they frequently formed the subject of our dreams. On -one occasion when I aroused the men in the morning one of them said, -"Oh! I am sorry you called me so soon, sir, for I was dreaming that I -was eating plum pudding, and if you had let me finish it would have been -as good as a breakfast to me!" Gales of wind were, of course, serious -impediments to our advance, and were of not unfrequent occurrence. They -invariably necessitated a halt, as, irrespective of the cold wind being -productive of frost-bites, it was almost impossible to make way through -the blinding snow-drift, which did not admit of anything being seen even -at the distance of a yard or two! - -On the 4th of October, half our provisions being consumed, and there -being the prospect of very heavy travelling before us on our homeward -journey, it was decided to return. The depot was therefore established, -on the brow of a ridge just above our encampment. It consisted of 870 -lbs. of pemmican and 240 lbs. of bacon. May and myself pushed on, with -the object of reaching Cape Joseph Henry; but the weather was too thick -to obtain any view, and, for the same reason, it was impossible to -ascertain the trend of the coast or the nature of the travelling to the -northward. The floes seemed to be composed of very heavy ice, and the -hummocks were piled up to a great height along the coast, especially off -any projecting points of land. Lieutenant Aldrich had, however, ascended -a hill some two thousand feet in height, and was fortunate in having a -fine clear day. From Cape Joseph Henry the land, he saw, trended away to -the westward, but there was no indication of anything but the -impenetrable polar pack to the north. We reached a latitude of about 82 deg. -50' N. before turning our steps homewards. - -On the return journey the dragging became infinitely more irksome and -laborious. The snow had accumulated to such a depth as to render some of -the ravines and promontories almost impassable, being above the men's -knees nearly all the time. On one occasion we were compelled to take our -sledges up a range of hills two hundred and fifty feet above the level -of the sea, in order to pass a precipitous cliff, off which was a stream -of water, and then to lower them down a steep incline on the opposite -side. To add to our difficulties, a sudden fall of temperature produced -many severe frost-bites, principally on the feet and toes. Circulation -was always restored as speedily as possible by the application of the -warm hand, and the injured part was then dressed with glycerine ointment -and lint. - -The hills, over which we were obliged to take our sledges, subsequently -went by the name of the "Frost-bite Range," in consequence of the many -casualties sustained during the time we were on them. - -On the 9th the temperature was 15 deg. below zero, and the boots, stockings, -and foot wrappers were frozen to the men's feet. On coming down the -hills the sledges had literally to be lowered to the ice-foot from a -height of two hundred and fifty feet, at a very steep angle. Thence it -was necessary to follow the shore, where enormous hummocks of ice were -piled up, having huge cracks and fissures, into which we sunk to our -necks in snow. In crossing some sludgy ice between the hummocks, on the -11th, Lieutenant May unfortunately went through, and was so severely -frost-bitten that he eventually had to suffer amputation of one of his -great toes. - -The sun set at about one in the afternoon. A glorious sight: the colours -of the sunrise and sunset seeming to be blended together. This was on -Tuesday, and at breakfast on the following Friday all the provisions -would be expended. The 13th was the last day of the sun's appearance. - -On the 14th the temperature was down to 25 deg. below zero, and the -travelling very heavy; but our sufferings were nearly over. At seven we -sighted the ship, and hoisted our sledge standards. All the officers and -ship's company came out to meet and help us, and by 8.50 P.M. we were on -board. - -Some of the frost-bites were so severe as to render amputation -necessary. This arose from the difficulty of finding out the injury in -time. A frost-bite steals upon one like a thief in the night, and before -the victim is aware it often happens that mortification has set in. No -less than half the party were placed on the sick list from being more or -less severely frost-bitten. - -It was a very great relief and comfort to us to be again on board, and -extremely gratifying to receive such a welcome as that extended to us by -our messmates. They were already feeling a little anxious at our -prolonged absence, knowing that we were only provisioned for twenty -days, and fearing that our return journey would be greatly delayed by -the late excessive fall of snow. - -How comfortable the ward-room looked, with the lamps burning brightly, a -cheerful fire blazing in the stove, and, what delighted us almost still -more, a clean white cloth spread upon the table, and on it a sumptuous -repast, made doubly inviting by a couple of decanters of madeira and -port! These little comforts and luxuries, though they may appear to -casual readers unimportant and insignificant, are thoroughly enjoyed and -appreciated by wearied and foot-sore travellers who have been strangers -to light, comfort, and a good meal, though only for three short weeks. -The pleasure of a warm bath and the enjoyment of brushing one's hair are -beyond all description! We were all a little thinner when we returned; -but, with the exception of the frost-bites, none the worse for our -expedition. - -So far as the results were concerned we were quite satisfied, -considering them perfectly successful. - -We had established a depot of provisions some forty miles to the -northward of the ship, which would very materially assist the sledging -campaign of the ensuing spring. A large amount of thorough practical -experience had been gained, which we hoped would bear good fruit in the -coming year. And we had succeeded in reaching and passing the highest -latitude attained, to the northward of Spitzbergen, by that -distinguished Arctic navigator, Sir Edward Parry, forty-eight years -before, during his memorable journey over the frozen sea towards the -North Pole. - -These were the most important results gained by the autumn sledging. - -The disappearance of the sun before our return necessarily prevented a -more protracted exploration being made. As it was we only had sufficient -light during midday for a very few hours' work. - -Perhaps, as it was our first experience in sledging, it was as well we -were not able to remain absent for a greater length of time. As an -instance of the manner in which the different articles increased in -weight during the autumn travelling, we found on our return to the ship -that the tent which had previously weighed 32 lbs. had increased to 55 -lbs., the coverlet from 21 lbs. to 48 lbs., the lower robe from 18 lbs. -to 40 lbs., the floor-cloth from 11 lbs. to 29 lbs., and everything else -in proportion! This increase is due to the absorption of all moisture, -which instantly freezes. In the spring, although the temperature is far -lower, this moisture, even when frozen, is extracted by exposure to the -sun. In the autumn this is impossible, as the sun has disappeared. - -[Illustration: WINTER QUARTERS, H.M.S. "ALERT."] - - - - -CHAPTER XIII. - -WINTER QUARTERS. - - - "Let winter come! let polar spirits sweep - The dark'ning world and tempest-troubled deep. - Though boundless snows the withered heath deform, - And the dim sun _ne'er_ wanders through the storm, - Yet shall the smile of social love repay - With mental light the melancholy day." - - CAMPBELL. - -The sledge travellers having all returned, the necessary preparations -for passing the winter were immediately taken in hand. - -Notwithstanding the loss of the sun, which took its final departure on -the 11th of October, we had for many days sufficient light, during five -or six hours of the day, to enable us to carry out the manifold duties -connected with the preparations for a winter in the Arctic Regions. - -Although the ship was completely frozen in, and the ice in which she was -imprisoned was increasing in thickness day by day, additional -precautions for her safety were taken by burying a couple of the largest -anchors on shore, and freezing them into their holes by pouring water -over them; to these were attached the chain cables. These we felt would -be a perfect security for us against any off-shore gale. - -Provisions in large quantities were landed as a precaution, in case any -unforeseen event should, during the winter, cause the destruction of our -ship, and so at one fell swoop deprive us both of home and supplies. Out -of the casks and cases so landed a spacious house was constructed, -capable, if necessary, of affording accommodation to our entire party. -This house, which went by the name of "Markham Hall," was used as a -receptacle for sails, rope, sledge gear, and all articles that could not -be conveniently stowed under hatches on board. Its dimensions were -forty-nine feet long, by twelve feet wide, and ten feet high. The -mainsail was used to roof it over. It was altogether a very grand -edifice, and we were, and I think with some reason, very proud at the -result of our architectural skill. - -The building mania seemed to be very prevalent amongst the officers, the -majority of whom employed themselves in constructing snow-houses for -various purposes near the ship. One officer went so far as to commence a -_colonnade_, reaching from the shore to the ship, the pillars to be made -of frozen blocks of snow, but the undertaking was of too gigantic a -nature to be carried out with any hope of success, and was abandoned -after a few days' work. - -A wooden observatory, brought out from England for the express purpose, -was set up for the transit instrument, and this with a house adjoining, -in which was placed the alt-azimuth instrument, being the head-quarters -of our astronomical observers, Parr and May, went by the name of -"Greenwich." - -[Illustration: DIAGRAM ILLUSTRATING THE MAGNETIC OBSERVATORY AT "KEW." - -EXPLANATION OF PLAN. - - A The Unifilar House. - B The Barrow Dip Circle House. - C The Declinometer House. - DD Passage connecting A and B, 371/2 ft. in length. - EEE The main passage, 120 ft. long. - F Passage leading to Declinometer House, 44 ft. from entrance. - G The main, and only, entrance. Distant from the _Alert_ 504 ft. - All houses and passages were "sub-glacial."] - -Snow-houses were constructed on shore for the several magnetic -instruments, and these latter were securely fixed by being firmly frozen -on snow pedestals. The three houses in which the instruments were -placed were connected, one with the other, by sub-glacial passages, one -being no less than a hundred and twenty feet in length. The whole -establishment, which was most complete and reflected great credit on -its architect, was called "Kew." Giffard and myself were the two -officers entrusted with the charge of the magnetic observations, and -many a cold and comfortless hour had we to spend, in our endeavours to -add to the slight knowledge we possess in this interesting branch of -science. - -Several other snow-houses were built for various purposes. One was for -the reception of our powder, as it is most important that such a -dangerous and combustible article should be removed from the ship, where -of necessity so many fires have to be kept up. The place in which the -powder was stored was called "Woolwich." Others were constructed in -which were deposited all our salt beef for present use, and these -buildings, of course, went by the name of "Deptford," after our great -naval victualling depot in England. - -Altogether the neighbourhood of our winter quarters had the appearance -of a young thriving settlement rapidly springing into maturity, -rendering what would otherwise have been a barren and desolate scene, -one of cheerful life and activity. - -The salt beef, which was exceptionally tough and salt, more so indeed -than the ordinary salt "junk" used in the navy, was kept in a -snow-house; because we found, by experiment, that it was rendered more -palatable by so doing. In all probability the process of congelation -tended to extract, or precipitate, a very large portion of the saline -matter with which it was impregnated, and thus deprived it, to some -extent, of its hardness and saltness. - -By the 26th of October the ship was completely "housed" in by a set of -awnings, extending from the after part of the top-gallant forecastle to -the mizzen-mast. This "housing" was made of a material called tilt -cloth, similar to that used to cover waggons in England. It was spread -on spars lashed between the masts, having curtains on each side so -fitted that they could readily and easily be triced up when required for -purposes of ventilation. Hanging lamps were suspended from the spars -over the centre of the deck, which were kept alight night and day. The -funnel, which was provided with a hinge, was lowered down, and formed a -famous and convenient stow-hole for rope. The number of coils that were -deposited in it was truly marvellous. - -[Illustration: FLAG-STAFF POINT.] - -Two gangways were cut in the ship's side: the one on the port side being -used as the general one for entrance and exit; the one on the starboard -for carrying out all slops and dirt to a large dirt-heap established -between the hummocks, some hundred yards from the ship. A smaller -dirt-heap was temporarily used nearer the ship, the accumulations being -removed to the larger one once or twice a week. - -Although, as a rule, the snow was not well adapted for building purposes -on account of its consistency, we were able to supply ourselves with -blocks from certain places where the snow had drifted in large -quantities and hardened by pressure. - -A snow wall, constructed from solid blocks obtained from these quarries, -was formed round the ship at about six feet distance, and at the height -of about four feet. When this was completed the space between the ship's -side and this wall was filled in with snow, reaching as high as the fore -and main channels, forming a perfectly solid and impervious embankment -that would effectually aid in preserving the warmth of the ship. The -upper deck was cleared of all superfluous articles, and was covered with -snow about twelve inches deep. A layer of gravel and ashes was strewn -over the surface; but I am not sure that we benefited much by this -measure, for it was rendered so slippery by being frozen that it was by -no means an easy matter to walk on it. - -All skylights and hatchways were carefully covered up, two only of the -latter being kept open as a means of ingress and egress. These were so -constructed with porches and double doors as to prevent the admission of -the outside air. The doors, being fitted with weights, were made -self-shutting, so that the closing of one door was insured before the -opening of the other. Snow walls were also built up round the porches, -and in fact round the hatchways and skylights not in use, so as to -render them all the more impervious to the cold air. - -Round the funnel of the galley fire there was a large space, inclosed by -a wall of snow, in which was deposited every morning a supply of ice or -frozen snow, to be converted into water sufficient to last twenty-four -hours. The ice for this purpose was procured from a large floe about one -hundred and fifty yards from the ship, which in all probability was -formed by the thawing and subsequent re-freezing of the snow on its -surface. When it was difficult to find work for the men to do outside -the ship during the winter, they were employed in conveying this ice to -a large depot that was formed close to the vessel, protected from the -Eskimo dogs by a snow wall, from which during gales of wind or other bad -weather we were able to supply ourselves. - -Our boats were all hauled up in a safe position on shore. Sails were -left bent, but securely furled and covered. Ropes that were not unrove -were carefully hauled taut, so as to prevent our being kept awake during -a gale of wind by an uninterrupted "devil's tattoo"--that is, the -continual flapping of a rope against a spar, which produces a very -aggravating and monotonous sound. - -Former expeditions were supplied with Sylvester's warming apparatus, -which, by means of pipes leading along the whole length of the ship, -warmed the "between decks" with hot air. The only means for heating the -vessel at our disposal were by stoves. These were placed in various -parts of the ship, and put under the charge of men who were -periodically selected for this service. Stringent regulations were -issued regarding the economical consumption of fuel, and also to guard -against all accidents from fire. - -As it is necessary in all ships wintering in the Arctic Regions to -devote a certain place to the washing and drying of clothes in which a -high temperature can be constantly kept, we appointed for this purpose a -compartment on the fore part of the lower deck, commonly called the -fore-peak. The men had certain days during the week allotted to them for -the use of this place, and it was found that clothes washed and hung up -one afternoon would be invariably dry on the following morning. - -The vapour arising in this room did not reach the deck on which the men -lived, but was conveyed through a trap hatch leading into the fore-peak -to a large space under the top-gallant forecastle, inclosed by a snow -wall and made its exit through an up-take formed of a piece of -funnelling. The compartment was heated by a stove, the fire in which was -kept burning night and day. - -The very difficult question of ventilation below was carefully -considered. It is one of the most important and serious matters that can -come under the consideration of the commander of an Arctic expedition. -Nothing is so essential to the preservation of health as the pure and -free circulation of air on the living deck. - -In this respect we were not so well off as our predecessors, for they, -being supplied with the Sylvester heating apparatus, were able to admit -a more constant current of air, and thus keep their habitable deck in a -better state and more free from condensation than ours. We found it a -very difficult matter to prevent in the slightest degree the -accumulation of moisture on the beams overhead, caused by the -condensation formed by the number of people living on the deck, and by -the vapour arising from the galley fire. Several up-takes and down-takes -were fitted in holes cut through the upper deck in our attempts to -remedy this serious defect, but as a rule they had little effect in -counteracting it. Men were incessantly employed during the winter in -wiping the moisture off the beams with cloths. If the hatchway doors -were kept open, even for a short time, this moisture was at once -converted into ice, which, of course, thawed and dripped immediately as -the temperature was raised. This drip was a constant source of annoyance -to us during the whole winter, and it was one to which we had, in part, -to submit. - -Whilst all these necessary preparations for the safety and warmth of the -ship were being carried out, the comforts of those who were about to -brave the rigours of an Arctic winter were not forgotten. Warm garments -were issued, consisting principally of a complete suit of seal-skins and -warm woollen guernseys. It must not be supposed that our seal-skins were -of the same material as those soft fur jackets so much in vogue with the -fair ones at home. Ours were obtained from the ordinary Greenland seals, -whose skins are covered with coarse bristly hairs. They were, -nevertheless, quite as warm, and were indeed our favourite articles of -clothing after the unpleasant aroma, which seems inseparable from -clothing of this description, had worn off, or until we had become so -accustomed to it as to fail to notice it! - -Carpet boots, or moccasins made of moose-skin, were worn on the feet. -The former were furnished with tops, made of duffel, reaching as high as -the knees, and with cork soles over an inch thick. With any temperature -below zero leather boots and shoes must be discontinued, as they freeze -so hard that the material loses its flexibility, and renders the foot in -consequence more liable to frost-bite. Moccasins, worn over a couple of -pairs of blanket wrappers, and a pair of thick woollen stockings -reaching above the knee, are undoubtedly the most comfortable foot-gear, -and the best adapted for low temperatures. Blanket wrappers are, as -their name indicates, strips of blanket, generally about sixteen inches -square, worn folded round the feet in lieu of socks and stockings, than -which they are infinitely warmer. - -As a rule, officers and men were dressed alike. Occasionally some of the -former would make their appearance in long fur coats with hoods that -they had obtained from the Hudson's Bay Company's store and other places -in London, but the majority adhered to the clothing supplied to them by -Government. - -A special winter routine was made out, and commenced shortly after the -return of the sledge parties. It was strictly adhered to through the -long winter night that ensued. - -I must not omit to mention the duty of keeping open the "fire hole"--a -very necessary and important precaution, that must be taken, in order to -be able to obtain a supply of water in case of fire breaking out on -board. As a rule, in all ships that have wintered in the Arctic Regions, -the water has frozen below the suction valves of the pumps, thus -rendering them totally useless. In order, therefore, to obtain water, a -hole was invariably cut through the ice near the ship, which was -generally placed in charge of the quarter-master of the watch, whose -duty it was from time to time to clear off the young ice from its -surface, so that at any moment water might be obtained in buckets. In -the "Alert," in consequence of our valves being much lower, our pumps -were never incapacitated from this cause; still they were liable to be -rendered useless by the water in the pipes becoming frozen. We therefore -always kept our fire-hole in working order. It was close to the bow of -the vessel, and was inclosed by a snow hut, so as to guard against the -danger of anybody falling in whilst walking about in the dark. By fixing -a tide-pole in the hole, and by devising a self-registering apparatus -with a line leading from the tide-pole to the forecastle of the "Alert," -we were able to obtain a very complete and valuable series of tidal -observations. From having the registering-gauge on board the ship, these -observations were continued uninterruptedly, and were unaffected by -gales of wind or bad weather, that would otherwise have prevented any -one from going outside the vessel in order to note them. - -Thermometric observations were, as may be imagined, very carefully -attended to, and the temperatures both inside and outside the ship duly -registered. Maximum and minimum thermometers, by which the greatest heat -and the greatest cold for each consecutive twenty-four hours were -recorded, were established in different places, and were noted every day -at noon by an officer especially appointed for that duty. - -Each compartment in the ship was supplied with one of these -thermometers, and on the living deck the temperatures at three different -heights--namely, at the deck, about half-way up, and at the beams--were -daily registered. For the outside air one of the ice-saw triangles was -erected on the floe, sufficiently distant from the ship to neutralize -any influence that might be derived from her presence, and on this, at -the height of about twelve feet, were placed several thermometers. In -addition to these, there were other thermometers on the hill about a -quarter of a mile from the ship, and about one hundred yards above the -level of the sea, so that we were able to obtain a correct mean of the -true temperature of the air. We were also able to ascertain the -temperature of the snow, and the ground at different depths; and also, -by means of solar radiation thermometers, we succeeded, on the return of -the sun, in getting the temperature due to its rays at various -altitudes. - - - - -CHAPTER XIV. - -THE ROYAL ARCTIC THEATRE. - - - "Haste thee, Nymph, and bring with thee - Jest and youthful jollity, - Quips, and cranks, and wanton wiles, - Nods, and becks, and wreathed smiles, - Sport that wrinkled Care derides, - And Laughter holding both his sides." - - MILTON. - -Sir Edward Parry, during his first and subsequent winters in the Arctic -Regions, fully recognized the importance of not only exercising and -improving the minds of those under his command, during the long period -of enforced inaction, but also of amusing them, and letting them feel -that they also were assisting in the amusement of their shipmates. To do -this he instituted an evening school on the lower deck, the officers -acting as teachers; and he established periodicals, dramatic and other -entertainments, in which he himself joined and took a conspicuous part. - -His wise example has been generally followed by the different -expeditions that subsequently wintered in the Arctic Regions. - -It is, in fact, very necessary to exercise both the physical and mental -powers of the men during the dark months, for when once the ship has -been safely established in winter quarters little work remains to be -done. The officers are constantly employed in taking and working up -observations in various branches of science; but the seaman has little -to do but reflect on, and possibly brood over, his situation. It is, -therefore, absolutely essential that some means should be devised to -drive from him all unpleasant thoughts, and to make him feel that it is -in his power to relieve the tedium of what would otherwise be a long and -monotonous winter. - -Each ship had been provided, before leaving England, with a -printing-press, and an officer and seaman[1] had been instructed in its -use. - -As soon as it was set up and in working order, the following prospectus -was issued by the "firm." - - - "THE ARCTIC PRINTING OFFICE. - - "Messrs. Giffard and Symons beg to inform the public that they have - obtained--at an immense cost and with infinite trouble--possession of - the extensive premises, lately occupied by Mr. Clements Markham, - situated in Trap Lane, within half a minute's walk of the foremost - Quarter Deck Ladder, and easily accessible to all parts of the city. - - "They have fitted up their new establishment--_regardless of - expense_--with all the _latest inventions_ and _newest machinery_, to - enable them to carry on the noble art of printing in a style and with - a rapidity hitherto quite unattainable. - - "They therefore expect from the public that support and assistance - which it always gives to the _truly deserving_. - - "Charges moderate. No credit given. All work required to be executed - to be paid for in advance. - - "N.B. Everything undertaken promptly and correctly executed. - - "H.M.S. 'Alert,' - - "July 28, 1875." - - -The "cost" and "trouble" alluded to in this production, that were -expended in obtaining a convenient place in which to carry out the -"noble art of printing," were caused by the fact that our photographers -were equally anxious, with our printers, to possess themselves of the -small cabin lately occupied by my cousin, and which is so -grandiloquently alluded to as "extensive premises." In fact, for some -little time it was a very sore and vexed question between those two -celebrated and energetic firms. Trap Lane was so called in consequence -of the after-hold being immediately outside the door of the cabin; and -it occasionally served as a very disagreeable kind of man-trap when, -through inadvertence, the hatch had not been replaced. As this part of -the ship was, during the early part of her commission, in total -darkness, owing to the piles of stores that were stowed in every -available corner, it is no wonder that unsuspecting individuals should -occasionally have fallen into the trap! - -Our printing-press was, it is almost needless to say, of great use to us -during the winter; for, although it never printed very much for the -public service, it was constantly called into requisition for the -purpose of striking off programmes for our dramatic and other -entertainments; and on such important events as birthdays and -Christmas-day we indulged in the extravagance of printed bills of fare. -On the whole the printing establishment on board the "Alert" tended very -materially to beguile the tedium of our long nights, and must therefore -be regarded as a decided success. - -Our school was opened on the 1st of November; from which date, until the -reappearance of the sun, the attendance was regular and constant. It was -composed of nearly the whole ship's company, and was divided into -classes under the direct superintendence of the officers. Reading, -writing, history, arithmetic, and navigation were the principal -subjects in which the pupils were instructed. - -The school was held on the lower deck between eight and nine o'clock in -the evening, the classes occupying the different mess-tables. Only two -men out of the entire ship's company were unable to read and write, and -these two men were placed in a class with two others, who were unable to -read and write English.[2] This class was presided over by the doctor, -who kindly volunteered to devote himself to the instruction of the -"cripples," as they were facetiously called. - -As an illustration of the improvement which has taken place in the -education of the men belonging to the Royal Navy during the last -half-century, it may be mentioned that, whereas in Parry's time it was -quite the exception to find a man that could read or write, with us the -exception was entirely the other way, only two men out of fifty-five -being ignorant of those accomplishments. - -Never were seen such painstaking and willing scholars as our men showed -themselves to be. It is impossible to conceive a more orderly or -well-conducted school, and it was a pleasure to the masters to devote -their time to classes that evinced such an earnest desire of acquiring -knowledge as did those on board the "Alert." - -Here might be observed a staid old seaman, whose great brawny hand -appeared more suited to grasp the marline-spike than the pen, vainly -endeavouring, with his elbows squared, his weather-beaten face close -down over his work, and his tongue thrust out, to arrive at some -satisfactory result in a simple addition sum. As a contrast to this, at -the opposite table might be seen a smart young sailor, who had distanced -all his competitors in arithmetic, asking abstruse questions in -mensuration of such a nature as to make even his tutor feel -uncomfortable! - -After the classes were dismissed, the men enjoyed an uninterrupted -evening to themselves. Games of various descriptions, such as chess, -bagatelle, draughts, and cribbage, had been purchased for their -amusement before leaving England, and were in constant requisition -during the winter. A large space on the starboard side of the deck, -abaft the living deck, was allotted to the smokers, and here were held -our dramatic and weekly entertainments on Thursdays. On Sundays Divine -service was performed in the same place. - -Books were also a source of great amusement and interest to many of the -men who were studiously inclined, as the well-thumbed volumes in our -library soon testified. Several men wrote regular journals, which were -even kept up by a few whilst they were sledging. Amongst the officers, -chess, backgammon, and a rubber in the captain's cabin, formed the chief -amusements. Although gambling is discountenanced (or ought to be) on -board every well-regulated man of war, we so far forgot ourselves as to -indulge largely in this vice. Seldom was a game played without a stake -on the result! The stakes, too, were exorbitant, frequently as much as -one lucifer match per game! It must be remembered that matches were very -scarce and precious articles with us, and it was therefore a very high -and valuable stake. On one occasion, one of my messmates was so rash as -to wager a tallow-candle on the result of a game; but this was an offer -of such magnitude that no one was sufficiently brave or sporting to -accept it. - -Among the many valuable gifts showered upon us by kind and generous -friends at home was an excellent piano, and fortunately amongst the -officers there was a very talented musician, to whose good nature and -willing efforts to please must be attributed many a pleasant hour, when -our hearts were warmed by well-known airs bringing back happy home -memories. - -Thursday evenings were always devoted to dramatic entertainments, -magic-lantern exhibitions, instructive lectures, reading, and music both -vocal and instrumental. These entertainments were kept up with the same -spirit, and without a break, during the whole winter. They went by the -name of our "Thursday Pops," and afforded much pleasure and amusement. -They were announced to the general Arctic public by the following -printed notice, which was widely circulated. - - - H.M.S. "ALERT." - - THURSDAY POPULAR ENTERTAINMENTS. - - On Thursday, the 11th of November, 1875, will commence a series of - popular entertainments, that will consist of lectures, readings, - recitations, and music, both vocal and instrumental, etc. No trouble - or expense have been spared in obtaining the services of a great - number of the most talented men of the day. The entertainment will be - given in the airy and commodious hall situated in Funnel Row. - - PROGRAMME: - - _Astronomical Lecture_ (with discussion) Capt. NARES. - _Song_ "I knew that I was dreaming" Mr. GOOD. - _Song_ "Watercresses" Mr. SHIRLEY. - _Reading_ "The Jumping Frog" Dr. MOSS. - _Song_ "An Englishman am I" Mr. CANE. - _Song_ "Broken down" Mr. BRYANT. - _Glee_ "The Wreath" Messrs. ALDRICH, PULLEN, and RAWSON. - _Song_ "The White Squall" Mr. MASKELL. - - God save the Queen. - - No encores. Doors open at 7.30. Sledges may be ordered at 9 o'clock - - Messrs. Giffard and Symons, Printing Office, Trap Lane. - - -This was the first notification issued regarding our weekly -entertainments, and, coming out a day or two before the performance, it -naturally caused considerable excitement and flutter amongst the Arctic -playgoing world! - -Except on the evenings exclusively devoted to the legitimate drama, -these entertainments were always preceded by a lecture delivered by one -of the officers, on some interesting and at the same time instructive -subject, adapted to the knowledge and intelligence of the audience. A -list of the lectures so delivered cannot fail to be of interest. - - - 1. On astronomy Capt. Nares. - 2. A few words on magnetism Lieut. Giffard. - 3. On geology Capt. Feilden. - 4. A few words on meteorology Lieut. Aldrich. - 5. A few words on steam Mr. Wootton. - 6. Mock moons under the microscope Dr. Moss. - 7. On light Lieut. Parr. - 8. An historical lecture Mr. White. - 9. A few words on astronomy Com. Markham. - 10. Our food in the arctic regions Dr. Colan. - 11. A few words on arctic plants Rev. H. W. Pullen. - 12. On hydrostatics Lieut. May. - 13. Sledging experiences Capt. Nares. - - -Nearly all the officers took part in these lectures, and I have not the -slightest doubt that all would have done so had there been any more -Thursdays to spare. They were eagerly listened to by the ship's -company, and afforded quite as much pleasure as the readings and songs -that followed, in the performance of which they all, with only one or -two exceptions, took part. - -[Illustration: ROYAL ARCTIC THEATRE--SCENE FROM "ALADDIN AND THE -WONDERFUL SCAMP."] - -The first real dramatic entertainment came off on the following -Thursday. Our plan was for the men to act one piece and the officers -another, and this was found to work very well. But the rehearsals were a -difficulty, and we were frequently compelled to shut ourselves up in our -own cabins in order to secure the necessary quiet and privacy to enable -us to become perfect in our different parts. - -The costumes were, of course, a subject of much discussion and deep -interest. The making up of dresses, and the manufacture of wigs from -musk-ox skins and oakum, sorely taxed our ingenuity and employed minds -and fingers that had hitherto been strangers to such occupations. Many -were the needles broken, and many were the fingers pricked, before our -ideal costumes were realized. Eiderdown quilts had to be converted into -the robes of a lovely oriental princess; old uniform coats were -beautified with spangles and tinsel, and appeared as the fashionable -habiliments of a dandy of the seventeenth century; whilst a wicked -magician, of the Hebrew persuasion, appeared in a coat of unmistakeable -clerical cut. - -Egerton was an indefatigable stage manager, and the scenic arrangements -under the direction of Moss, who was also the artist, could not be -excelled. Aldrich at the piano (as our orchestra) was a host in himself, -adding materially to the success of the entertainments. In fact, -officers and men vied with each other in their endeavours to promote -amusement and hilarity, and if their histrionic abilities were not of -the highest order, the zeal and energy of the actors fully compensated -for this deficiency. - -We enjoyed a rare freedom from harsh ill-natured critics. These pests do -not venture across the Arctic Circle. All who visited the Royal Arctic -Theatre (re-opened after a lapse of twenty-one years) came with a firm -resolve to please or be pleased. Acting upon this determination, our -entertainments were bound to be successful. The following prologue, -composed for the occasion by Pullen, was spoken at the opening of our -theatre, on Thursday, the 18th of November, 1875. - - "Kind friends, with kindly greetings met to-day, - We bid you welcome to our opening play: - You, whose indulgent smile forbids the fear - Of scornful wit or captious critic here. - To-day we welcome you, and not to-night, - For all is noon with us--all summer bright; - And though the southern sun has ceased to pour - His glittering rays upon our ice-bound shore-- - Has ceased awhile to touch with drops of gold - The crystal corners of our hummocks bold; - We bear a warm soft light that never fades-- - A lustrous light amid these Greenland shades; - All trustful of each other's love, we learn - With steady flame our lamp of Hope to burn; - And suns may set, and twilights disappear-- - They shall not rob us of our Christmas cheer; - Nor blinding drift, nor frozen wave, shall chill - Our laughter glad--for laugh, brave boys, we will; - Kindling yet once again the genial glow - Of happy English homes on Arctic floe. - - "Yet once again; for none would here forget - We are but sons of fathers living yet; - In work and play alike, we but renew - The deeds of men who taught us what to do. - And though, more favoured than the rest, we soar - To loftier flights than theirs who went before; - Though ours the boast, by skilful guidance led, - In virgin climes our shifting scene to spread; - We love to read on history's faithful page, - Of ancient triumphs on our Northern stage, - And boldly for our brave forerunners claim - An Arctic 'cast' already known to fame. - - "Now let the tell-tale curtain rise, and say - What we have done to while your hours away. - Such as we have, we bring you of our best, - And to your kind forbearance leave the rest. - One only grief is ours, and you shall share - With us the burden of that gentle care. - One cherished form we miss--one touch alone-- - One glance of love--one tender, thrilling tone. - Ah! in the sweet homes of our native isle - The dear ones move, and minister, and smile. - We would not wish them here, but this we know, - Their thoughts are with us every step we go: - Their life sets northward o'er the cold, grey sea: - They live in wondering what our life may be; - And heart draws near to heart, and soul to soul, - Till each has found its true magnetic pole. - - "God bless and keep them in His mighty hand-- - Our wives and sweethearts, and the dear old land!" - -The prologue was warmly applauded. At its conclusion the curtain rose, -and the following programme, showing the plays that were acted and the -cast of characters, was proceeded with. - - - THE ROYAL ARCTIC THEATRE - - Will be re-opened on Thursday next, the 18th instant, by the powerful - dramatic company of - - HYPERBOREANS! - - Under the distinguished patronage of Capt. Nares, the members of the - Arctic Exploring Expedition, and all the nobility and gentry of the - neighbourhood. - - The world-wide reputation of this company is quite unrivalled. The - manager has spared neither trouble nor expense in forming this - company, and has selected none but the very best _artistes_--the - ladies being from England--who, having numerous other engagements, can - remain for a short time only. - - The scenic arrangements, under the control and manipulation of that - celebrated artist, Professor Moss, _must_ be acknowledged to be - unparalleled in the experience of ages and of the highest order. - - The orchestra, under the management of Signore Aldrichi (lately from - Milan) cannot fail to be appreciated by the audience. - - At 7.30 will commence the celebrated nautical farce - - - THE CHOPS OF THE CHANNEL. - - CHARACTERS: - - Leander Hellespont Mr. Stuckberry. - Mr. Counter Balance Mr. Woolley. - Gratings (Steward) Mr. Burroughs. - Mrs. Hellespont Mdlle. Francombi. - Mrs. Veneer Mdme. Maskelli. - - Time The present day. - Scene Saloon of a Boulogne steamer. - - Interval of ten minutes. - - During the interval the renowned vocalist, Mr. Stone, will sing THE - IRISH BARBER. - - After which will be performed the screaming tragico-comico burlesque - entitled - - - VILIKINS AND HIS DINAH. - - CHARACTERS: - - Master Grumbleton Gruffin, a rich (soap) merchant of London, the - original parient Com. Markham. - - Baron Boski Bumble, ancestor of the celebrated beadle, the original - lovier so gallant and gay Mr. Egerton. - - William Wilkins, socially and convivially known as Vilikins, a young - apprentice, in desperate love with Mr. Rawson. - - Dinah Gruffin, the sole feminine offspring of the above-mentioned - soap-merchant, in love with the aforesaid Vilikins Mdlle. Blanc. - - Scene 1 Lawn of Gruffin's house. - Scene 2 Interior of Gruffin's house. - Scene 3 Lawn of Gruffin's house. - - God save the Queen. - - -This, the first appearance of the "Hyperboreans," was eminently -successful, and elicited both laughter and applause from our very -appreciative and demonstrative audience. Mademoiselle Blanc (Mr. White) -made a fascinating little Dinah of six feet high, dressed in a Dolly -Varden costume, whilst the other ladies were all that could be desired, -and looked charming in their gorgeous silk and muslin dresses. - -In this respect we had a decided advantage over our consort, the -"Discovery;" for her space on board being somewhat limited, the building -of an ice theatre on the floe became necessary. Here, though the -building was spacious and elegant, the temperature was rarely above -zero! The ladies were therefore unable to indulge in low dresses, and a -close observer might have detected underclothing composed of seal-skins -beneath their otherwise gay and brilliant costumes. - -Occasionally, as the two following bills will show, we were agreeably -surprised by the announcement of an entire change of programme. - - - H.M.S. "ALERT." - - THURSDAY POPS. - - December 16th, 1875. - - Great attraction! The latest novelty of the season!! - The Wizard of the North!!! [finger symbol] For one night only!!!! - - PROGRAMME: - - The entertainment will commence with - A FEW WORDS ON STEAM . . Mr. Wootton. - After which the only and veritable - - WIZARD OF THE NORTH, - - _en route_ to his hyperborean domicile, - - will exhibit and expound some of his original and inimitable illusions - and feats of prestidigitation, consisting of the following wonderful - and startling tricks:-- - - The vanishing egg. - The magic die. - The mysterious sixpence. - The magic shawl. - A startling surgical operation. - The marvellous watch trick. - Tricks with cards. - The magic bag trick. - The wonderful generating hat. - The astounding prestidigitorial metamorphosis, performed with - an egg and silk handkerchief. - The inexhaustible bottle. - Our very able and renowned pianist, Lieut. Aldrich, will, as usual, - preside at the orchestra. - To commence at 7.30 precisely. - - God save the Queen. - - Messrs. Giffard and Symons, Printing Office, Trap Lane. - - - THURSDAY POPS. - - H.M.S. "ALERT." - - January 20th, 1876. - - GRAND PHANTASMAGORIAL EXHIBITION - and - MUSICAL ENTERTAINMENT. - - To commence with - A FEW WORDS ON ASTRONOMY, by Com. Markham, - Illustrated by the aid of a magic lantern. - To be followed by a series of - - DISSOLVING VIEWS, - - Consisting of coloured representations of - Remarkable places in England, - Photographic sketches of foreign countries, etc. - After which, the wonderful and startling adventures of - - SINDBAD THE SAILOR - - Will be related by the Rev. H. W. Pullen. - In the next place Com. Markham will give a life-like and - entertaining display of various specimens in - - NATURAL HISTORY; - and - Lieut. Aldrich will recite the true and touching - TALE OF A TUB. - - To conclude with some highly amusing - - COMIC SCENES. - - To commence at 7.30 precisely. - - God save the Queen. - - Messrs. Giffard and Symons, Printing Office, Trap Lane. - - -These amusements may be considered light and frivolous, for men engaged -in such a serious undertaking as that upon which we were embarked; still -they all tended to one point--namely, the successful issue of the -enterprise. For they kept the minds of the men employed with pleasant -and agreeable thoughts, drove away all feelings of tedium and dulness, -and thus assisted largely in promoting the general well-being and -satisfactory sanitary condition of the expedition during the long night -of nearly one hundred and fifty days. They effectually banished -despondency, and assisted in making all hands cheerful, happy, and -contented. - - -FOOTNOTES: - - [1] Lieutenant Giffard and Robert Symons, A.B. - - [2] Petersen, the Danish interpreter, and the ship's cook Dominick a - native of Gibraltar. - - - - -CHAPTER XV. - -WINTER OCCUPATIONS AND AMUSEMENTS. - - - "Darkness, Light's eldest brother, his birthright - Claimed o'er this world, and to heaven chased light." - - DONNE. - - "Behold the wandering moon - Riding near her highest noon, - Like one that hath been led astray - Through the heavens' wide pathless way; - And oft as if her head she bowed, - Stooping through a fleecy cloud." - - MILTON. - -The sun, as has been mentioned in a previous chapter, took its final -departure on the 11th of October. From this date darkness gradually -settled upon us, reaching its greatest intensity on the 21st of -December. The type of a leading article in the _Times_ newspaper was -taken by us as a test of the darkness. This was last read in the open -air at midday on the 6th of November, and then only by a few with a -great deal of difficulty. Many unsuccessful attempts were made on -subsequent days. For a fortnight on either side of the 21st of December, -the difference in the light between noon and midnight, on a clear day, -was almost imperceptible, on a dull day it was quite inappreciable. -Occasionally, at other times, at midday a faint luminous band might be -observed along the southern horizon, but this was all the indication we -had of the difference between day and night. - -We did not forget to celebrate on the 21st of October the Battle of -Trafalgar, remembering that our great naval hero, Nelson,[1] was himself -an old Arctic navigator. Our caterers provided us with a good dinner, -and we were regaled, as a great indulgence on such an auspicious -occasion, with an extra glass of wine! Two elaborate bills of fare were -placed on the table, on one of which was very creditably sketched the -"Alert" in winter quarters, and on the other was depicted the Battle of -Trafalgar, with the motto on each, "England expects every man _this_ day -to do his duty!" As there was a good dinner on the table, and the cold -weather had made us wondrous hungry, we all responded nobly to the call! - -The 5th of November was another anniversary that could not pass -unnoticed. On that evening the effigy of Guy Fawkes, ingeniously stuffed -with squibs and seated on a cask well smeared with tar, was duly paraded -round the upper deck, accompanied by the drums and fifes playing the -"Rogue's March." It was then dragged, on a sledge, to the summit of a -neighbouring hummock, and there solemnly burnt in presence of the whole -ship's company. The band continued to play until the lips and fingers of -the fifers became so frost-bitten that they were compelled to desist. It -was a novel sight to see the dusky forms of the men, clad in seal-skins, -dancing round a blazing fire on the top of an enormous mass of ice, -whilst in the background was the ship with her masts and yards thickly -coated with snow, and all her ropes clearly defined in the bright -"bonfire light." A beautiful balloon, manufactured by Moss out of -various coloured tissue-papers, also formed a prominent feature in the -evening's display. Unfortunately, shortly after it was released, and -before it had ascended to any very great height, it caught fire and was -quickly consumed. - -It must not be supposed, because I enumerate all the little incidents -connected with the amusements of the men, that other and more important -work was neglected. On the contrary, the officers were unceasingly -engaged during the winter in taking scientific observations in their -respective departments; each officer being awarded some special subject. -These included observations in astronomy, magnetism, electricity, -meteorology, tides, spectrum analysis, observations for the detection of -the polarization of light, chlorine, and specific gravity estimations. -The pursuit of these investigations was at times a matter of great -difficulty and extreme personal discomfort. It necessitated attendance -in, and consequent exposure to, a temperature many degrees below zero, -for several hours at a time. Under these circumstances it is no easy -matter to handle delicate instruments, the manipulation of which, even -in a temperate climate, requires the utmost care and caution. Made -extremely brittle by the intense cold, a fall to any of the small metal -movable parts of an instrument, such as the needles, would be fatal, yet -it is almost impossible to touch them with the uncovered hand. The -breath freezing on the arcs and verniers of the instruments during the -time of observation, and on the glasses of the telescopes and mirrors, -adds seriously to the difficulty; whilst the unequal contraction of -different metals during intensely cold weather renders some of the -instruments totally useless. - -Paraselenae, or mock moons, and auroras were of frequent occurrence, but -none of the latter were sufficiently bright to call for special mention. -These phenomena were always carefully examined, and the results -recorded. As a rule the auroras consisted of faint coruscations darting -across the heavens through the zenith, frequently in the form of an -irregular arch terminating at each end on the horizon, and generally -accompanied by various small luminous patches. - -The lunations of the moon were periods that were always looked forward -to, and gladly welcomed, affording as they did, on clear bright days, a -marked contrast to the gruesome darkness that generally prevailed. These -clear days were not inappropriately termed "moony" ones, and were taken -advantage of to perform all work that was considered necessary outside -the ship. - - "Rising in clouded majesty, at length - The moon unveiled her peerless light - And o'er the dark her silver mantle threw." - -Even on these bright silvery "moony" days it was unsafe to venture to -any distance from the ship, as the sudden "veiling of her peerless -light" by fog or clouds would produce total darkness, and so prevent the -unfortunate wanderer from finding his way back. - -Great attention was paid to the important duty of seeing that a proper -amount of exercise was taken by every soul on board. Open-air exercise -was the more essential to health, because the air we breathed on board -was not as pure as might be desired. This was inevitable, and the evil -could only be partially counteracted by strict attention to the -enforcing of outdoor exercise. A walk was constructed along the floe -near the ship, for a distance of half a mile, marked at every two or -three yards by small heaps of empty preserved meat tins, placed there by -our industrious doctor. We were thus able to take our exercise along -this promenade even on the darkest day, and the number of times that -each individual walked up and down during the day was proudly recounted -at the dinner-table. The darkness prevented walks to any greater -distance for a considerable time. This then was our fashionable lounge, -and was called the "Ladies' Mile" after the drive of the same name in -Hyde Park. - -Our greatest annoyance was undoubtedly caused by the incessant drip in -our cabins and elsewhere on board. So bad was it that all books had to -be removed from the shelves, or from any position where they were in -contact with the ship's side or the beams overhead. Especially over our -beds did we suffer, and could only make certain of a dry night's rest by -taking the precaution of nailing a blanket over the bed, or sloping one -as an awning! No means that we could devise, although many experiments -were tried on the living deck of the men as well as by the officers in -their cabins, lessened the condensation from which we suffered, and -which increased with any rise of temperature. One officer went so far as -to light, and keep burning for a whole day, no less than fifty-two -candles and one lamp in his cabin, hoping by these means to dry it -thoroughly; but although it answered the purpose for a day or two, at an -enormous cost, it was soon as bad as ever. During the time of his -_illumination_ he succeeded in raising the temperature of his cabin -from 40 deg. to 75 deg.! It is decidedly unpleasant, whilst writing, to have a -continual stream of water pouring down upon your head and upon your -paper; yet it is impossible to prevent this disagreeable drip. - -One of my messmates, more fortunate than his brother officers, had -brought an umbrella with him, and this being spread over his chair -protected him from the wet, and thus enabled him to read or write in -comparative comfort, and, what was perhaps of greater consequence, with -the perfect preservation of his temper. - -It may appear like affectation on my part when I say that any rise of -temperature, during the winter, was viewed by us with dissatisfaction. -Clad as we were to resist a cold of many degrees below zero, we were -made absolutely uncomfortable by the _heat_ when the thermometer -indicated any degree with a + sign. The only real good that we derived -from such a rise of temperature was that we were able more freely to -throw open the doors leading down to the lower deck, and thus admit a -thorough circulation of fresh air; on one occasion during the month of -November the temperature rose as high as 23 deg., and in December it reached -the unprecedented height (for that season of the year) of 35 deg.! These, of -course, were only occasional jumps, never of long duration, and were -apparently produced by gales of wind from the S.W. Our experience at the -"Alert's" winter quarters was that a breeze of wind raised the -temperature, and that our coldest weather was always registered on -perfectly still and clear days! During boisterous tempestuous weather -the pack, although stationary, moaned and groaned weirdly, as if unhappy -gnomes, imprisoned in the cold grasp of the frozen sea, were bewailing -their hard fate, and pleading for release from their icy fetters. The -young ice, too, in the vicinity of the ship cracked in a most alarming -manner, each crack being accompanied by a sharp and loud report, and -formed great fissures, leaving the surface, which had hitherto been -smooth and level, rugged and uneven. Well might the "Ancient Mariner," -describing such a scene, say-- - - "It cracked and growled, and roared and howled, - Like noises in a swound." - -This movement of the ice, slight as it was, exposed the "Alert" to great -pressure, and although it did not amount to an actual "nip," nor did it -in any way cause injury to the ship, it made her list over several -degrees. Now, as we in the ward-room were on a limited allowance of -wine, namely two glasses a day, this heeling over of the vessel caused -us great annoyance, as it prevented our glasses from being filled to the -brim, a custom that had been rigidly followed out since leaving England. -This curtailment of our "rights," as we were pleased to call them, was -very naturally regarded with a certain amount of disfavour. In order to -lessen, if we could not entirely rectify this evil, we supplied -ourselves with ingeniously made little wedges, which, being placed under -the _lee_ side of the wine-glass, brought it so nearly upright that we -succeeded in very nearly getting our full allowance. - -The birthdays of the officers were invariably celebrated by the best -dinners that our indefatigable and energetic caterers could provide, -always having in view the chance of the ship spending three winters in -the Arctic Regions. As a special indulgence we were also allowed on -these occasions a glass of port wine after dinner, a treat that we -ordinarily had only twice a week. The composition of the _menus_ for -these sumptuous feasts was always a subject of anxious care and -forethought on the part of those who were entrusted with this important -duty. Long and earnest were the consultations that were held, before one -of them was satisfactorily composed and placed in the printer's hands. - - - [Illustration] - - MENU. - - POTAGES. - Mulligatawny. - - POISSONS. - Pegouse a la Couverture de Laine.[2] - - ENTREES. - Petits Pates d'Homard a la Chasse.[3] - Rognons a la Pain roti. - - RELEVES. - Mouton roti a l'Anglais. Tongues on Gimbals. - - ENTREMETS. - Poudin aux Raisins. - Blanc-manger a la Hummock. - Petits Pates d'Hahis a la place d'Eccleston. - - DESSERT. - Poudin glace a la Hyperborean. - Figues. Noce. - Gateau a l'lrlandais. - Cafe et Liqueur a la Jesson. - - _November 11th_, 1875. - - -As we were living in a land in which little could be obtained in the way -of change, the object was to diversify as much as possible the names of -the same viands, so as to make the guests believe that the dinners were -entirely different. The names given to some of the dishes were decidedly -original. On the previous page is the first _printed_ bill of fare that -was placed on the table. - -Shortly after the ship had been established in winter quarters, a -careful calculation was made of the amount of fresh meat we possessed. - -By fresh meat, I mean meat of the musk-oxen and sheep that we had -killed, and not the fresh _preserved_ meat, of which we had an ample -supply. It was found we had sufficient to yield fourteen meals, at the -rate of one pound per man per meal. It was, therefore, determined to -issue a fresh meat meal twice every three weeks, and, at the doctor's -recommendation, this was done on two consecutive days. In his opinion -this method of apportioning it was the most conducive to health. - -Beer, of which we had been provided with ten hogsheads specially brewed -for us by Allsopp, was issued, so long as a cask was "on tap," twice a -week. On these days half the allowance of spirits only was served out. - -On Sundays Divine service was regularly performed between decks; the -morning and evening services being read on alternate Sundays. - -Prayers were read daily on the upper deck. The Holy Communion was -celebrated on the first Sunday in every month. Considering the small -number of men from among whom the choir was selected, and the -necessarily slight amount of practice they could have, the singing at -church was very creditable. Aldrich played the accompaniment on a -harmonium that we had obtained from the ward-room officers of the -"Valorous," before parting company with that ship at Disco. The credit -of originating and instructing the choir was, of course, due to Pullen -and Aldrich. - -Medical inspections were held regularly on the first day of each month, -when every officer and man was minutely questioned and examined. Nothing -could be more satisfactory than the medical report of the sanitary -condition of the men at the conclusion of these examinations. - -The amount of compulsory open-air exercise that had to be taken by each -man was two hours a day; but most of the men, that is to say all the -working hands exclusive of cooks, stewards, and servants, were -invariably at work, _outside_ the ship, for at least five hours a day. A -very favourite and at the same time healthy pastime of the men in their -leisure hours, when the moon was up, was that of "tabogganing." This -consisted in dragging one of our small satellites or dog-sledges to the -summit of a neighbouring hill, and then coming down, two or three on the -sledge, at the rate of about sixty or seventy miles an hour! The men -enjoyed this amazingly, and used to race one sledge against another. As -they were not very expert in the management of these "taboggans," and -had little confidence in their own steering, they would, when they saw -there was a chance of their sledge coming to grief, tumble out and roll -for some distance after it. Fortunately the snow was soft and they never -came to harm. - -Rawson, who had acquired a knowledge of this sport in Canada, was the -first to introduce it in the far north. The dexterity with which he -managed his "taboggan" was marvellous, and he would frequently, -accompanied by one of his messmates, come down the steep side of one of -the highest floe-bergs in the vicinity of the ship. Poor "Nellie" could -never understand whence the motive power of these machines was derived, -and used to rush round barking at us in a frantic manner when we first -started, until left far behind plunging in the soft snow and struggling -to keep pace with us. - -It was wonderful how this dog withstood the cold. The colder the day the -more she appeared to enjoy it, dashing about in the soft fine snow and -picking up pieces of ice in her mouth for the purpose of having them -thrown for her. It must be remembered that for any one of us to touch a -piece of ice with the uncovered hand in a temperature 50 deg. below zero -would have been a very serious matter; yet Nellie was able, in the same -temperature, to carry pieces of ice, or bits of metal or stone, in her -mouth for hours together. The only cause of annoyance to the poor old -doggie was the caking or balling of the snow between her toes, which -used to trouble her a good deal. To obviate this, four little flannel -moccasins were made for her feet; but, although she enjoyed wearing them -and seemed to be proud of her appearance in them, they had to be -discontinued, as we were afraid that the tying them on sufficiently -tight to prevent their coming off might stop the circulation of the -blood and thus produce frost-bite. On the whole, however, Nellie throve -wonderfully well, and until the following summer enjoyed perfect health. -She was my constant companion wherever I went, attending me during my -walks, and lying curled up at my feet in the observatory during the long -hours that I was employed taking magnetic observations. She always slept -in an arm-chair in my cabin, being provided with her own little blanket, -on which her name was embroidered. - -[Illustration: NELLIE.] - -Before concluding this chapter it will be as well to relate an -interesting and rather curious incident connected with one of our Eskimo -dogs. - -In Aldrich's sledge journey to Cape Joseph Henry, one of his dogs -(Sallie), being attacked with a fit, had to be cast off from the team -and was no more seen by him during that journey. - -On crossing the floe with my sledge party about a week after, we were -suddenly joined, to our great surprise, by an Eskimo dog which the men -readily recognized as Sallie; all our attempts to make her approach were -unsuccessful, although she followed us at a distance during the day and -hovered round our camp, picking up scraps of pemmican that had been -purposely left out for her during the night. She eluded all attempts at -being caught, running away on the ice and disappearing amongst the -hummocks. She followed us faithfully, at a distance, until the day we -returned to the ship, when she vanished altogether. She was last seen on -the floe about four miles from the "Alert." - -Amid the many preparations for the winter, poor Sallie was forgotten and -had almost passed out of recollection altogether, when one day in -December, more than _two_ months after she had been last seen, a strange -dog was observed hovering round the ship. This strange dog proved to be -the long-lost Sallie! - -No amount of coaxing would persuade her to come near us, and she was -eventually driven off by the other Eskimo dogs, and took refuge on the -pack. On the following day she again made her appearance, and this time -we succeeded in getting her on board and into a place of safety. She was -terribly thin and emaciated; but being well cared for and attended to, -she rapidly picked up, and was eventually the strongest and best dog in -our whole team. - -The question as to how she had existed during her long absence from the -ship was a difficult one to solve. At first it was surmised that she had -attached herself to a pack of wolves; but this idea was scouted, as no -tracks had been seen to lead us to believe that these animals existed in -our neighbourhood. It is not probable that she obtained anything from -the ship during the time she was missing, or that she picked up scraps -from the other dogs, for on her appearance she was at once driven away -by her old companions. The only probable conclusion that we could arrive -at was that she had supported life by hunting and feasting on lemmings, -for the traces of these little animals were the only indications that we -had of the existence, outside our own circle, of animal life. - - -FOOTNOTES: - - [1] Nelson served as a midshipman on board the "Carcass," in Captain - Phipps' North Polar Expedition in 1773. - - [2] Blanket wrappers were articles of wearing apparel. - - [3] The name of the cook was Hunt. - - - - -CHAPTER XVI. - -AN ARCTIC CHRISTMAS. - - - "So now is come our joyful'st feast, - Let every man be jolly, - Eache roome with yvie leaves is drest, - And every post with holly; - Now all our neighbours' chimneys smoke, - And Christmas blocks are burning; - Their ovens they with baked meats choke, - And all their spits are turning. - Without the door let sorrow lie, - And if, for cold, it hap to die, - We'll bury't in a Christmas pye, - And ever more be merry." - - WITHER. - -On the 21st of December the sun reached its greatest southern -declination. We felt on that day that we had cause for rejoicing. The -sun had arrived at the limit of its southern journey, and now it would, -every day, be travelling to the northward, and therefore in our -direction. So rapidly had the time passed that Christmas stole upon us -unawares, and we were only reminded of its approach by the strong odour -of good things being cooked that pervaded the whole ship, bringing to -our minds the fact that preparations for its celebration had actually -commenced. Nothing was omitted that could possibly add to the comfort -and enjoyment of the men on this day. The ship's stores were thrown -open and they were allowed to provide themselves with an unlimited -amount, so long as there was no waste, of flour, raisins, sugar, and -preserved fruits, and in addition to the regular daily allowance of -meat, a pound of musk-ox beef and a pound of mutton were issued to each -man. For the two previous days, during which they had been disturbed as -little as possible, the men were engaged in making the necessary -preparations for spending their Christmas as happily and as socially as -if they were in a more genial climate. It must be remembered that this -was a day looked forward to by all, not only in the light of a festival, -but because it was also regarded as the turning-point of the winter. -After Christmas every day would bring us nearer to the sun, whose bright -face we all so ardently wished to welcome once more. Moreover, Christmas -day, to a community situated as we were, "away from the busy haunts of -men," must always be regarded as an epoch, a day looked forward to, and -when passed, a day from which many events are dated. - -In addition to the supplies afforded by the stores of the ship, we were -largely indebted to kind, and in several instances unknown, friends and -well-wishers to the expedition in England for many little articles that -assisted to amuse our men during this festive season. Amongst these the -kind and generous ladies of Queenstown must not be forgotten. These -ladies had, previous to our departure from England, formed themselves -into a Committee, and had sent to each ship a large Christmas-box -containing many useful, and indeed valuable, articles. Each officer -received some little package, personally directed to himself, and every -man was presented with some pretty little Christmas-box. Nothing could -have been more happily thought of, and it would have done the fair -donors good could they but have witnessed the pleasure testified by the -recipients at the distribution of the contents of their case. - -I must not omit to mention another Christmas-box, kindly sent by Mr. -Mason, the inventor, I believe, of "Somebody's Luggage," and containing -all sorts of amusing little articles suitable either for decorating a -table or a Christmas-tree. - -Another act of kindness on the part of our friends in England was also -much appreciated by both officers and men. A young lady, a relative of -one of the officers, had taken the trouble to direct a letter to each -individual on board, containing a beautiful Christmas card. To make it -appear as if they had been actually delivered through the post, a -second-hand postage-stamp had been affixed to each envelope. Her kind -forethought afforded a great deal of pleasure to the recipients of those -letters. - -Christmas eve was spent very merrily by all on board the "Alert." The -piano was carried out from the ward-room to the main deck, where dancing -was kept up with great animation until eleven o'clock! It is wonderful -how fond the English man-of-war's man is of dancing. So long as he can -obtain music and a partner to dance with, without regard to sex, he will -continue to fling his legs about with great vigour until compelled by -heat and exhaustion to desist! The men on board the "Alert" were no -exception to this rule; one and all joined in the dance, and seemed -thoroughly to enjoy it. Poor Aldrich did not get a moment's peace. As -soon as one tune was finished, he was called upon for another. Polka, -waltz, and galop followed each other in rapid succession, officers and -men joining alike in the general hilarity of the evening. - -Christmas morning broke cold and clear; its stillness occasionally -interrupted by light puffs of wind from the S.W. Divine service was -performed in the forenoon, the pulpit being decorated with branches of -artificial holly. When church was over, a little exercise was taken on -the "ladies' mile." On my return I found my cabin brightened up by small -twigs of variegated holly, a delicate and touching attention on the part -of some of my messmates, who had provided themselves with artificial -branches of this plant before leaving England. At one o'clock, -everything being in readiness, the officers were invited to inspect the -lower deck. Preceded by our drum and fife band playing the "Roast Beef -of Old England," we paid a formal visit to the men's quarters. The lower -deck was beautifully and tastefully decorated with flags, coloured -tinsel paper, and artificial flowers, whilst the different mess tables -were literally groaning under the weight of the good cheer that adorned -them. Everything had a cheerful and comfortable appearance, and, above -all, the radiant healthy-looking faces, beaming with pleasure, that so -cordially and heartily greeted us with the compliments of the season. Of -course, dancing was the prominent feature of the afternoon, Aldrich, -with his usual good nature, being again victimized at the piano. At six -o'clock, for on such an important occasion we departed from our usual -dinner hour of half-past two, we all assembled in the ward-room for -dinner, and great was our astonishment and delight at seeing in the -centre of our table a magnificent bouquet of artificial flowers. This -was, I believe, the happy thought of a lady who had recently been -admitted into the circle of "Arctic relations." The bright-coloured -flowers, reminding us of home associations, were more thoroughly -appreciated than even the good dinner which was provided for us, for -which reference must be made to the following _menu_, composed by -Pullen:-- - -H.M.S. "ALERT." - - A la Julienne soup is the _potage_ we favour, - And soles fried _au naturel_ serve us for fish; - We have cutlets and green peas of elegant flavour-- - Beef garnished with mushrooms--a true English dish. - - Then a mountain of beef from our cold Greenland valleys, - Overshadowing proudly boiled mutton hard by, - Till our appetite, waning, just playfully dallies - With a small slice of ham--then gives in with a sigh. - - For lo! a real English plum-pudding doth greet us, - And a crest of bright holly adorns its bold brow; - While the choicest mince pies are yet waiting to meet us: - Alas! are we equal to meeting them now? - - So we drink to our Queen, and we drink to the maiden, - The wife, or the mother, that holds us most dear; - And may we and our consort sail home richly laden - With the spoils of success, ere December next year! - -In addition to the bill of fare, the annexed poem by the same -accomplished author was printed and placed in front of each member of -the mess. - - On this glad Christmas Day, - While happy bells are flinging - O'er bright lands far away - Their burst of joyous singing, - We love to think that each sweet lay, - That sets those echoes ringing, - Hushed music from our icy bay - To loving hearts is bringing. - - Hushed music that shall tell - How He has left us never, - In whose dear sight we dwell, - Who aids our high endeavour; - Who, from the hearts that love us well, - Our short lives will not sever, - For whose good gifts our breasts shall swell - With grateful praise for ever! - -Our drum and fife band, of their own accord, played several airs very -creditably during our dinner, which was brought to a conclusion by a few -short speeches. In the evening dancing was again kept up with great -animation; every one appeared cheerful and happy. In no region of the -world could this Christmas-day have been spent with more mirth and more -genuine fellowship than it was by the little band of explorers, so far -removed from all home ties and associations, who were celebrating it -that day, in a latitude farther north than man had ever before -penetrated. - -On reviewing the events of the year we felt we had much to be thankful -for. We had succeeded, in spite of many dangers and difficulties, in -establishing our ship in winter quarters in a position farther north -than even some of the most sanguine had, at one time, dared to hope. The -English flag had been displayed, both by sea and by land, in a higher -northern latitude than any flag had ever before been seen, and although -our prospects of further exploration in a northerly direction were -somewhat damped, owing to the land trending west, we knew that there was -much to be done during the ensuing year in defining and exploring the -coasts to the east and to the west. A wide field of exploration was -still before us, and there was much useful work to be done during the -ensuing spring in a hitherto unknown region. - -Half our winter had passed, and although the long dark night of one -hundred and fifty days might, by some unacquainted with the many -resources we possessed to while away the time, be considered dull and -monotonous, monotony and despondency were unknown on board the good ship -"Alert." We all looked forward with eager hope to the return of the sun, -strong in our determination to do our best, and with our appetites for -sledging considerably whetted by the initiation we had received during -the autumn. - -Hitherto we had, with one exception, enjoyed perfect immunity from -sickness, and we all thought that if there was no cold weather in the -Arctic Regions to produce frost-bites, the appointments of medical -officers to the expedition, so far as their professional qualifications -were concerned, were undoubted sinecures. The frost-bites had, however, -been very severe, and at the end of the year there still remained on the -sick list four of the poor fellows who had been attacked during the -autumn sledging, three of whom had suffered amputation of the big toe. - -Compelled to keep to their beds, the winter to them must have, indeed, -been wearisome; but no word of complaint was ever uttered by them, and -they appeared as cheerful and in as good spirits as the best of us. -Their only distress was the idea of not being allowed, in consequence of -their misfortune, to participate in the spring campaign. The sequel, -however, proved, although they took no part in the _extended_ sledging -operations, how well and how nobly they worked in their brave endeavours -to assist and succour their poor, weak, and stricken comrades; but we -must not anticipate. - -We had hitherto experienced, in comparison with what we had been led to -expect, tolerably mild weather, as Arctic winter weather goes; and the -cold had not been so severe as we anticipated; -46.5 deg. or 781/2 deg. below -freezing-point being, up to the end of the year, the minimum temperature -registered. This was by no means an uncomfortable temperature, although -superficial frost-bites, especially on the noses and cheekbones, were of -constant occurrence. Solitary walks were, of course, prohibited; and it -was particularly impressed upon every one that, when they were absent -from the ship, they were carefully to watch their companions' faces in -order to detect a frost-bite at once, and so be able to restore -circulation before permanent injury could be sustained. Face-covers were -occasionally worn, but were not in very great favour. They have the -disadvantage of freezing to the face, which they also conceal, and so -prevent a comrade from seeing and reporting a frost-bite. - -In the neighbourhood of our winter quarters there had, up to this time, -been a remarkable absence of all animal life. Occasionally the -quarter-masters would report that during the night they heard the -howling of wolves in the distance, and one night the Eskimo dogs, who -were lying curled up in the snow outside the ship, made a sudden rush -for the gangway, and evinced great eagerness to get on board. This -stampede was attributed to the presence of wolves, but no tracks of -these animals had been seen to justify our arriving at such a -conclusion. With the exception sometimes of a peculiar, whistling, -moaning sound, caused by the rise and fall of the ice with the tide, the -stillness of the nights was undisturbed. - -We had long been aware that the ice of which this part of the polar sea -was composed consisted of huge massive floes, not of a few seasons' -formation, but the creation of ages, real thick-ribbed ice. Except along -the west coasts of Banks and Prince Patrick Islands, no such ice had -ever before been met with in the Arctic Regions. It therefore became -desirable to apply to it a special name by which it might be -provisionally known. After some discussion, Captain Nares decided upon -calling the frozen sea, on the southern border of which we were -wintering, the "Palaeocrystic Sea," the name being derived from the two -Greek words [Greek: palaios] ancient, and [Greek: krystallos] ice. This -term was used for the great frozen polar sea during the remaining period -of our detention on its borders.[1] - -Atmospheric phenomena, such as halos and paraselenae, were by no means -uncommon, and occasionally we were astonished by the heavenly bodies -behaving, as it appeared to us, in a very eccentric manner. On one -occasion the star Aldebaran was reported to be jumping about in a -strange way. Such unusual behaviour on the part of a star brought us all -up in the cold, and there, sure enough, was Aldebaran doing exactly what -was reported, and altogether conducting itself in a very erratic and -unstarlike manner. The illusion was caused by the fall of minute, and -imperceptible, frozen particles; but it was some time before we could -satisfy ourselves that the star was not actually in motion, many of the -men remaining to this day unconvinced. One of our Scotch quarter-masters -informed me, some time afterwards, that it was a "vara curious star;" -and although the laws of refraction were explained to him, he still -persisted in his belief that the movement of the star was due to itself, -and would not believe in any other explanation. - -At the beginning of the winter, shortly after the return of the sledge -parties, the doctor and myself being busily engaged in the construction -of a snow house on shore, observed a most brilliant meteor fall, -apparently about a quarter of a mile from us, its course being from S.E. -to N.W. It was of a bright emerald-green colour, and was falling so -quietly and slowly that we at first thought it was a rocket, or Roman -candle, let off by some one astern of the ship, it being distinctly -visible for many seconds. When it arrived, in our estimation, at about -forty feet from the ground, it suddenly burst, displaying bright red and -green colours. It was seen by others, from different points of -observation; all being unanimous in their opinion that it was one of the -most beautiful sights, of the kind, they had ever witnessed. - - -FOOTNOTE: - - [1] The word may not be formed on strictly accurate principles, but - it is sufficiently expressive of the fact it is intended to - represent, and it is now endeared to us by association and by common - usage while serving in the far north. - - - - -CHAPTER XVII. - -A HAPPY NEW YEAR. - - - The old year dies on southern skies, - And leafless woods that moan and quiver; - The shadows creep o'er ocean deep, - And silent lake and rustling river; - And all is gloom around the tomb - Of wasted moments, lost for ever. - - The new year gleams on silver streams, - Where meadows smile in sunlit glances; - The dark shades flee across the sea, - And the wild wavelet laughs and dances; - And all is bright where new-born light - Brings hope to man and golden chances. - - O happy year! that tells us here - The same sweet, ever-welcome story, - That soon, so soon! one radiant noon - Shall plunge in light yon summits hoary, - That point our way through endless day - To joyous triumphs, home, and glory. - - H. W. PULLEN, - - H.M.S. "Alert," - - _January 1st_, 1876. - -The above lines, composed by the poet laureate of the expedition, -greeted us at the breakfast table on the morning of the 1st of January, -1876. - -The New Year was ushered in with every demonstration of joy, gratitude, -and hope by our little party assembled together, so far removed from the -civilized world. We were joyful because a new year had dawned upon us -in undiminished numbers; grateful for the many mercies that had been -vouchsafed to us, and hopeful concerning our future prospects. We could -not look back with regret upon the past year, for to us it had indeed -been eventful; but officers and men looked forward to the coming year -with feelings of confidence, resolutely determined faithfully to perform -their duties, placing their trust in Him who had hitherto so well -watched over and protected them, and firm in their reliance on His -continued aid and support. - -It is generally the custom in the navy to strike the bell sixteen times -at midnight on New Year's eve--eight bells for the old year and eight -bells for the new! Of course with us this custom was rigidly adhered to; -but not only did we strike sixteen bells at _our_ midnight, but we also -struck the same number at six minutes to eight, which, allowing for the -exact difference in time, would be midnight in England, so that we had -at least the satisfaction of knowing that our bell was being employed in -the same way as many others in the navy at the same time. - -Perhaps it may be interesting to my readers to know exactly how we -received the New Year! I will, therefore, quote my remarks as they -appear, word for word, in my journal. - -"At five minutes to twelve, we all congregated round the ward-room -table, on which was spread a sumptuous cold collation, consisting of a -_real_ English ham, Bologna sausages, brawn, and sardines. Strong -whiskey punch, in the brewing of which all had a share, was ladled out -to each, and from the encomiums which were passed on its flavour and -strength, the old proverb that 'too many cooks spoil the broth' was -completely upset. As the bell struck, a neat little speech was made by -our orator the doctor, the compliments of the season were wished to all, -nor were those at home forgotten, our glasses were emptied, and then in -true Highland fashion, with one foot on the table, the other on our -chair, and with hands joined, we all sang 'Auld lang syne,' the drum and -fife band accompanying us outside, the song being taken up by the men on -the lower deck, who, true to their tastes, had been '_dancing_ out the -old year.' Such was the manner in which the year 1876 was inaugurated in -latitude 82 deg. 27' N., where no human being had ever welcomed a new year -before." - -A more cheerful, happy, and contented party it would be difficult to -imagine anywhere; utterly oblivious of the solemn darkness and desolate -sterility that prevailed without, they thought only of the "joyous -triumph" that they hoped to achieve, and then of their return to old -England. Everything wore a cheerful aspect. No leader could have more -reason to be satisfied with the health and spirits of those under his -command, than Captain Nares on the 1st of January, 1876. - -On that morning, at the usual monthly medical inspection, he had the -satisfaction of receiving the report that the men were in a better state -of health than they were at the last examination. Appetites, which -during mid-winter had been waning, had gradually returned. So contented -were we, that many were actually pitying our friends in England, because -they were unable to enjoy such delicious musk-ox beef as was put on our -table for dinner on New Year's day! - -Our first crop of mustard and cress was gathered on the 2nd of January. -It was not an abundant one, but there was sufficient to give a mouthful -to each person, and what little we had was certainly very refreshing. It -had grown up devoid of all colour, and had a very _washed-out_ -appearance. The garden was a small shallow box kept close to the -ward-room stove. In consequence of the success attending this--our -first--attempt at agriculture, several gardens were started, and we were -enabled to issue, at different times, small quantities of this excellent -antiscorbutic; though how far the loss of colour detracts from its -medicinal qualities is a difficult problem to solve. Although the colour -was absent, the fresh _taste_ appeared to remain, there being no -perceptible difference between that grown on board the "Alert," and the -same reared in the heat of the sun in more favoured climes. As a rule, -the best crops were those grown on a blanket. - -On the 8th and 9th of January we experienced a heavy gale of wind from -the southward. It was impossible, whilst it lasted, to venture outside -the ship, even to take the thermometric observations, although they -could be registered only a few yards from the gangway: they had -therefore to be discontinued during the time the gale lasted. It blew -for forty-eight hours with relentless fury, when it exhausted itself in -fitful gusts, more or less strong, until it abated altogether. The -housing over the ship suffered sadly from this storm, several tons -weight of snow having collected on it from the tremendous drift, in some -places breaking it through, and in others "bagging" it down so as to -render walking underneath an impossibility. - -All our outdoor establishments were completely buried with snow, and we -were compelled to send parties of men to excavate them, in order to -effect an entrance at all. In fact, our men were for some time engaged -in repairing the ravages of the storm. The accumulation of drift on the -weather side of the ship was enormous, and took the form of a perfectly -solid snow-wreath. This was caused by the eddying wind driving the snow -from the side of the vessel to a distance of about four or five feet, -where it settled, resembling a great frozen wave, whose curling crest -was fully seven feet in height. - -On the opposite, or lee, side of the ship the ice had cracked, leaving -several large fissures, through which the water oozed and flowed over. -The spring tides had also caused the ship to rise in her icy cradle, the -greater part of the banking having, in consequence, slipped through -between the edge of our dock and the ship's side and disappeared. This -also had to be rectified. Our gale of wind had undoubtedly been -productive of much extra work, irrespective of the anxiety and the by no -means pleasant time spent, during its duration: for as yet our -protecting bergs had not inspired us with absolute confidence regarding -the shelter they might afford in such tempestuous weather as we had -recently experienced. So well, however, did they answer our purpose -during this gale, that all cause for anxiety was from that time removed, -and for the future we felt as safe and as secure as if we had been -frozen up in a well-sheltered and land-locked harbour. - -When the wind was at its height, a piece of musk-ox meat, suspended in -the mizzen-rigging, was blown down, and was, of course, at once assailed -by the Eskimo dogs who had been admitted into the ship during the gale. -Fortunately it was frozen so hard that they were unable to get their -teeth through it, and although it had been some time in their clutches -before it was rescued, little loss was sustained. - -At noon on the 17th of January, a faint tinge of crimson, blended with a -slight silvery streak of twilight, could be observed in the southern -horizon, and although it was only of short duration, it became more -decided and lasted for a longer time on each successive day. These -bright harbingers of returning light were anxiously watched, and gladly -were they welcomed as they assumed a more decided appearance. - -Although there was no despondency or depression of spirits on board the -"Alert," the monotony of the long dark nights could not but be felt, and -we all eagerly looked forward to the time when the glorious rays from -our bright, though long-absent, sun should again crown the summits of -the distant hills with their sparkling and joyous light. All on board -were interested for different reasons in the return of the sun: the -sledge travellers, because it would bring light and heat to cheer and -sustain them on their lonesome and arduous journeys, which they knew -would be commenced as soon after its return as possible: the sportsmen -regarded it as the precursor of game; and all hailed with delight the -symbol of returning day and the assurance of the approaching termination -of their long dark night. By the 1st of February, those gifted with -sharp eyesight were just able to decipher a leading article in the -_Times_ on the floe at noon. It was remarked that one of our officers -afflicted with short-sightedness was able, by the dim twilight, to read -not only with greater ease and accuracy than others, but also some days -before them, and therefore by a dimmer light. - -We had hitherto had no exceptionally severe weather; but during the -latter part of January we experienced a foretaste of the intense cold -that we were a month later destined to endure. With a temperature 50 deg. -below zero, it is necessary, when exposed to it, to keep the body in -constant motion, otherwise a frost-bite will imperceptibly seize hold of -one. On first emerging into this temperature a slight difficulty of -breathing would be experienced, and tears would be involuntarily brought -to the eyes, which immediately became small nodules of ice, and as such -had to be extracted. This is hardly to be wondered at when it is -remembered that we had to undergo a transition of temperature from our -living-deck to the open air of over 100 deg.! In spite of this cold, -however, we were not much troubled with frost-bites, except on the face. -Our dearly bought experience, during the autumn sledging, will account -for our comparative immunity from these very troublesome and painful -attacks. - -Apropos of frost-bites it is related, that one of the members of the -expedition, on getting up in the morning, during the cold weather, -found, to his horror, that one of his toes and a part of his foot were -quite black. Thinking he was severely frost-bitten, and wishing at once -to assure himself of the fact by the only practical method that -suggested itself at the time, he seized a pin, and made a furious dig at -the supposed injured part. He very quickly found that, although -discoloured, it was not totally devoid of all sensation, nor was the -circulation of blood in any way impeded. The fact was, that his servant, -on the previous day, had patched up his sock with a piece of fearnought, -and, in order to assimilate the colour, had inked it over--which fully -accounted for his terrible frost-bite! - -It was our invariable custom to keep the hair, especially that growing -on the face, as close as possible. In spite, however, of this -precaution, it was impossible to prevent the breath from freezing on the -short stubbly beard and moustache, which would soon be converted into a -perfect mass of ice--a decidedly uncomfortable appendage. On returning -from our short walks, we frequently found our cap, comforter, and collar -of the coat frozen into one solid and compact mass. - -Occasionally an amusing incident occurred to vary the sameness of our -daily life, as the following story will show. During the darkest part of -the winter one of the magnetic observers had occasion to visit the -observatory. Taking his lantern, and accompanied by Nellie, he reached -the door, which to his surprise was open. Supposing it to have been -blown open by the wind, for it had been blowing very hard the previous -night, he entered the long tunnel leading up to the Unifilar House. -Before he had gone far a strong animal smell assailed his olfactory -organs; this, with the fact of Nellie exhibiting great restlessness, -induced him to examine the ground, when he clearly detected the traces -of some animal, but of what description he was unable to decide. - -He was now placed in rather an unpleasant position, for to advance -head-foremost through a narrow passage into a small house in which a -great Polar bear might have established himself, was to say the least a -rash act; yet he was unwilling to return on board, and probably be for -ever after chaffed by his messmates for being frightened at nothing. -Putting on a bold front, he determined at all hazards to push on, and -ascertain what the animal was that had dared to violate the sacred -precincts of the observatory. As he advanced the peculiar odour became -stronger, and he was sorely tempted to retreat, thinking discretion was -the better part of valour. Arriving at the entrance to the house, -however, he plucked up courage, and with the lantern well in front of -him, and Nellie close at his heels, he dashed in, and there, lying down -and looking almost as frightened as himself, was, not the great white -bear that he expected to meet, but "Bruin," the largest of our Eskimo -dogs, who, during the boisterous weather of the preceding night, had -sought shelter in our observatory, and had no doubt found it a very snug -and comfortable place, infinitely preferable to the bleak and exposed -floe. It was a long time before the place was rid of the unpleasant -smell peculiar to Eskimo dogs. - -As the light increased day by day, the men were employed in re-embarking -the stores and provisions landed, and in demolishing "Markham Hall." It -was necessary to accomplish as much as possible, as Captain Nares well -knew, before the departure of the sledging parties, for so few men would -be left on board that little could be done during their absence, and -there was no saying how soon after their return the ship would be able -to break out of winter quarters. The Eskimo dogs were also now regularly -fed and attended to. Hitherto they had been left to do pretty much as -they liked, and their regular meals during the winter had been few, and -served at uncertain times. Notwithstanding the small amount of food that -was issued to them, they were all in capital condition, in fact a little -too "fleshy" for dragging purposes, as they always received the scraps -and surplus food from the allowance of the ship's company, and this was -more than enough to keep a much larger pack of dogs than we possessed. -They were also regularly exercised in dragging a light sledge, their -day's work increasing as the days lengthened. - -We could not but notice the sallowness of complexion which the returning -light revealed, only too palpably, in the faces of our companions, -caused by the long absence of the sun, and which had hitherto been -unnoticed by the light of lamps and candles. Like our mustard and cress, -we were devoid of all colour, yet apparently in good and sound health. -There is something essentially health-preserving and life-giving in the -rays of the sun, without which everything must wither and eventually -die. This was, in the sequel, but too fully exemplified in our case. For -although we were all in excellent spirits and supposed ourselves to be -in perfect health, yet the seeds of that terrible disease, which -subsequently crippled us so disastrously, must have already germinated -unknown to ourselves. - -But little did we suspect, at that time, the approach of the evil that -eventually overtook us. - -Many of the large floe-bergs near the ship were observed to be literally -rent in twain, owing in all probability to the contraction of the ice by -the intense cold--the outer part of the floeberg being exposed to a -greater cold than the interior. These rents will also account for the -loud sharp reports that were frequently heard during the winter, and -which were for some time wrapped in mystery. - -Towards the end of February a few hares were seen, and two or three were -shot; but they were very timid and shy, and seldom gave our sportsmen -opportunities of exhibiting their prowess. Lemming tracks were -abundant, and occasionally these little animals would be seen running -along the snow. Nellie regarded them as being created for her especial -enjoyment in hunting, and would vainly endeavour to unsnow them after -they had taken refuge in their holes. Woe betide the unfortunate little -lemming observed by Nellie at any distance from its habitation. A dash, -a gobble, and all was over! In vain did we try to break her of these -murderous propensities, not only for the sake of the victims but also -for herself, as the swallowing of little balls of fur cannot be -conducive to health. All was futile! Nellie considered the chase of -these little creatures as an undoubted privilege with which no one -should interfere. - -[Illustration: LEMMINGS.] - -The long twilight enabled us to extend our rambles, and we visited the -snow hut built by Rawson last autumn when attempting to get south, about -five or six miles from the ship, and in which he had deposited a small -quantity of provisions. To our surprise we discovered that, with the -exception of the pemmican which was in a tin, and the tobacco, all had -disappeared! Biscuit, bacon, tea, sugar, and cocoa, all had gone. A hole -through the roof of the house pointed at once to the means of ingress; -but who were the thieves? Foxes or wolves had not been seen, nor had any -traces of them been observed! - -Even supposing these animals to be the depredators, how did they effect -their escape from the house after once they had got in? It was simple -enough to scrape a hole through the roof and jump down; but it was not -so easy to jump straight up a height of six or seven feet through a -small hole! Suspicion fell for some time on our long-missing dog Sallie; -but it was never satisfactorily ascertained whether dog, wolf, or fox -was the culprit. Of one thing there could be no doubt. The robbery had -been committed by a very cunning and intelligent beast. Spots of blood -on the pemmican tin showed unmistakeably that this also had been -attempted, but had proved too hard and strong. The tracks, which were -always to and from the floe, were too indistinct to enable us to make -out the nature of the animal, but the general idea was that it was a -fox. - -Of course, with returning daylight, the serious work of sledging and the -preparations for the spring campaign occupied our attention to the -exclusion of almost everything else. On Saturday, the 26th of February, -our school assembled for the last time, the classes being dismissed in -the evening only to reassemble again if the ship spent another winter -away from England. It would not be fair to dismiss our pupils without a -word of commendation. Their attendance was most regular, and their -efforts to learn beyond all praise. Nothing could exceed their -diligence, nor excel their desire to please and reflect credit upon -their masters, and I do hope that many will have benefited by the -instruction they received in their Arctic school. - -On Thursday, the 24th of February, was performed our last dramatic -entertainment. The following was the programme. - - - ROYAL ARCTIC THEATRE. - - H.M.S. "Alert." - - Thursday, 24th February, 1876. - - [finger symbol] Last performance of the season. - - GRAND REPRESENTATION - of the - Original pathetico-comico-burlesque operetta entitled the - LITTLE VULGAR BOY, - or - WEEPING BILL. - - Founded on the celebrated Ingoldsby Legend, "Misadventures at - Margate." - - Written expressly for the occasion by the - Rev. H. W. PULLEN. - - Scenery by Professor Moss, M.D. Music by Lieut. Aldrich. - Manager: Lieut. May. - - Preceded by - - Reading "The Blessed Babies" Mr. Hunt. - Song "Fie, for shame" Mr. Symons. - - CHARACTERS: - - Mr. Brown, an old buffer, slightly green Commander Markham. - - Mrs. Jones, a landlady, slightly cross, but with a keen eye to - business G. Le C. Egerton, Esq. - - Jack Robinson; a seafaring man, slightly figurative in his language, - and violently in love with Mrs. Jones Lieut. Giffard. - - Weeping Bill, a little vulgar boy, slightly out at elbows, and fairly - sharp for his age Lieut. Rawson. - - K 55, the irrepressible Bobby, slightly self-important, and the natural - enemy of Weeping Bill Rev. H. W. Pullen. - - Scenes 1 and 3 The Jetty at Margate. - Scenes 2 and 4 Mrs. Jones's lodgings. - - To commence at 7.30 precisely. - - God save the Queen. - - Messrs. Giffard and Symons, Printing office, Trap Lane. - - -This piece, as set forth in the bill, was written expressly for the -occasion by Pullen, and not only did he compose it, but he also assisted -in its performance. It was a very successful hit, and was most -deservedly applauded, loud cries of "Author" following the fall of the -curtain. - -The ensuing Thursday witnessed the last of our "Thursday Pops," and this -terminated our season's festivities. At it Captain Nares delivered a -very able and instructive lecture on his sledging experiences, bringing -a few "facts" home to the men, as to the sort of work they were about to -perform, and the kind of life they would have to lead. His announcement -that we should, in all probability, spend another winter in the Arctic -Regions was hailed with delight. He also announced his intention of -returning to England before the third winter, provided no unforeseen -event happened to detain the expedition. - -The following was the programme for the evening's entertainment. - - - THURSDAY POPS. - - H.M.S. "Alert." - - [finger symbol] _Positively the last entertainment this winter._ - - March 2, 1876. - - The season's festivities will terminate with the following - programme:-- - - 1. The Palaeocrystic Sea and Sledging Experiences Capt. Nares. - 2. Ballad . . "The _Shannon_ and the _Chesapeake_" Mr. Cane. - 3. Song . . "Susan's Sunday out" Mr. Stuckberry. - 4. Reading . "Two Bab Ballads" Rev. H. W. Pullen. - 5. Ballad. . "Over the Sea" Mr. Maskell. - 6. Song . . "Rummy old Codger" Mr. Pearce. - 7. Ballad. . "Seeing Nelly home" Mr. Self. - 8. Recitation . "On the Arctic Expedition, by J. D." Sergt. Wood. - 9. Song . "Billy Woods the grocer" Mr. Gore. - 10. Ballad . "Beating of my own heart" Mr. Ayles. - 11. Part Song . "O who will o'er the downs so free" - Messrs. Aldrich, Pullen, May, and Wootton. - - To conclude with the grand Palaeocrystic Sledging Chorus, by the entire - strength of the house. - - To commence at 7.30 precisely. - - God save the Queen. - - Messrs. Giffard and Symons, Printing office, Trap Lane. - - -This chapter would be incomplete without the words of the "Grand -Palaeocrystic Sledging Chorus." - -This was also composed by our talented poet laureate, and was most -enthusiastically received by the whole ship's company, who vociferously -joined in singing it on all appropriate, and other, occasions. - -It brought in the names of all the sledges that were employed in the -early part of the spring campaign, and became henceforth, as it were, -the "Arctic National Anthem." - - - CHORUS. - - Not very long ago, - On the six-foot floe - Of the palaeocrystic sea, - Two ships did ride, - Mid the crashing of the tide-- - The _Alert_ and the _Discovery_. - - The sun never shone - The gallant crews upon - For a hundred and forty-two days; - But no darkness and no hummocks - Their merry hearts could flummox: - So they set to work and acted plays. - - There was music and song - To help the hours along, - Brought forth from the good ship's store; - And each man did his best - To amuse and cheer the rest: - And "nobody can't do more." - - - AIR--"The _Shannon_ and the _Chesapeake_." - - Here's a health to _Marco Polo_[1]-- - May he reach his northern goal, oh! - And advance the flag of England into realms unknown! - May the _Challenger_[2] be there, - All comers bold to dare, - And _Victoria_[3] be victorious in the frozen zone! - - May our _Poppie_[4] be in sight, - With her colours streaming bright, - And the _Bulldog_[5] tug on merrily from strand to strand! - And the _Alexandra_[6] brave - See our banner proudly wave - O'er the highest cliffs and summits of the northernmost land! - - Here's a health to _Hercules_,[7] - Whom the autumn blast did freeze, - And all our gallant fellows whom the frost laid low! - Just wait a little longer, - Till they get a trifle stronger, - And they'll never pull the worse because they've lost a toe. - - Here's a health, with three times three, - To the brave _Discovery_,[8] - And our merry, merry guests, so truly welcome here! - And a brimming bumper yet - To our valiant little pet-- - The lively _Clements Markham_,[9] with its bold charioteer! - - Here's a health to all true blue, - To the officers and crew - Who man this Expedition neat and handy, oh! - And may they ever prove, - Both in sledging and in love, - That the tars of old Britannia are the dandy, oh! - - -FOOTNOTES: - - [1] Commander Markham's sledge. - - [2] Lieut. Aldrich's sledge. - - [3] Lieut. Parr's sledge. - - [4] Lieut. Giffard's sledge. - - [5] Dr. Moss's sledge. - - [6] Mr. White's sledge. - - [7] Lieut. May's sledge. - - [8] Lieut. Rawson's sledge. - - [9] Mr. Egerton's sledge. - - - - -CHAPTER XVIII. - -RETURN OF THE SUN. - - - "Most glorious orb! that were a worship, ere - The mystery of thy making was revealed! - Thou earliest minister of the Almighty - Which gladdened on their mountain tops the hearts - Of the Chaldean shepherds, till they poured - Themselves in orisons." - - BYRON. - -The 29th of February was the day on which, according to astronomical -rules, the reappearance of the sun was to rejoice the hearts and gladden -the eyes of our little party. On the previous day, a general holiday had -been proclaimed to give the men a chance, by ascending some of the hills -in our neighbourhood, of welcoming the sun a day earlier. In this, -however, they were doomed to disappointment. The glorious orb would not -come out to be welcomed; for the simple reason that it was still just -below the horizon. We were, however, rewarded by seeing its rays -reflected in the northern sky, which was beautifully illumined with the -most brilliant prismatic colours. Cairn Hill, and the hills to the -southward by Cape Rawson, were the chief points of observation. The -former was abreast of the ship, and about a mile distant; its height -being about four hundred and fifty feet above the level of the sea. On -the summit was built a large cairn, hence its name. On the cairn was -reared a long staff, to which was hoisted an iron oil cask, so as to -form a conspicuous landmark to guide wanderers back to their ship. - -[Illustration: CAIRN HILL.] - -By ten o'clock on the forenoon of the 29th, the ship was nearly -deserted, and officers and men could be seen dotting the floe and -snow-covered ranges as they wended their way to the most prominent -adjacent hills, on which little knots of men could already be seen -assembled, in order to catch a glimpse of the rising sun. We feared, -however, on starting, that we should be again disappointed, as there was -no clear sea horizon to the southward, and the sun would hardly have -sufficient altitude to show itself above the distant land. These fears -were not without foundation, as the result proved. - -Shortly before noon our excitement was intense as a bright ray shot up -vertically from the sun's position and illumined the summits of the -surrounding ranges, whilst a radiant light was shed around. - - "As rays around the source of light - Stream upward ere he glow in sight, - And watching by his future flight - Set the clear heavens on fire." - -Our hopes grew high as noon drew near, but again were we disappointed, -and again were we compelled to return to the ship, defeated in our -object of welcoming back the "Prodigal Sun!" - -The next day was cloudy, but on the following one, by going aloft about -ten o'clock, we had the satisfaction of announcing that about one-third -of the sun's disc was visible, as it crept slowly along the southern -horizon. Instantly the rigging swarmed with men, scrambling up with -elephantine agility to greet the fiery orb after its long absence, and -looking more like animated bales of furs than human beings. It appeared -of a deep reddish orange colour, but was so distorted by refraction that -its shape was more that of a truncated cone than a spherical body. - -By noon Cairn Hill was covered with expectant visitors, and well were -they repaid for the trouble of the ascent. Although little of the sun -could be seen above the distant land, we knew that it was there, and -what we did see was bright, and _appeared_ with a slight stretch of the -imagination to be warm! - -Romeo's words-- - - "Night's candles are burnt out, - And jocund day stands - Tip-toe on the misty mountain tops," - -were on our lips as we beheld the beautiful colours in the northern sky. -The roseate tints blending with the violet seemed to belong more to -southern climes than to the sterile inclement regions that we were -inhabiting. The summits of the hills, the "misty mountain tops," were -bathed in its glorious rays, whilst its luminous beams danced and -glimmered along the distant ice-floes. It was a bright and glorious -sight, and we remained long admiring it, and revelling in its rays--in -fact, until warned by a peculiar sensation in our feet that the -temperature was actually 100 deg. below freezing-point; and however ecstatic -we might feel at the reappearance of the sun, Jack Frost still reigned -supreme, exacting implicit obedience to his will, and making those who -disregarded his injunctions suffer for their heedlessness. - -Undoubtedly the Arctic Regions, and the farther north the better, would -be a good place for Parsees; for none of the followers of Zoroaster -could have exhibited more anxiety for the return, and more delight at -the appearance, of their deity, than we did before and after the bright -rays of the sun first fell upon us! Their god Fire would also receive, -during the long cold Polar winter, the utmost homage and attention. Sun -and Fire worshippers would require in these regions little to stimulate -them to devotion. - -Strange to say, our extreme cold came with the returning sun. During -the latter end of February the temperature had been gradually getting -lower and lower, until on the 4th of March it had fallen to -74 deg., or -106 deg. below freezing-point. This was the lowest recorded by the -expedition, obtained from the mean of several thermometers, and, so far -as we could ascertain, the lowest really authentic corrected observation -that has ever been registered in any part of the globe. From noon of the -3rd until noon of the 4th the mean temperature was -69 deg..68, whilst the -lowest mean temperature registered for any twenty-four consecutive hours -was from four A.M. of the former until four A.M. of the last-mentioned -day -70 deg..31. From six P.M. on March 2nd until six A.M. of March 4th, -namely thirty-six consecutive hours, the mean temperature was as low as --69 deg..93', and for the week ending March 4th the mean temperature was --60 deg.! - -It was amusing to observe the eager excitement with which every one -received the latest intelligence regarding the state of the thermometer, -and when it was announced that the "lowest on record" had been -registered, there was a general shout of exultation. During the intense -cold several experiments were tried by exposing various substances to -its influence, and with the following results. Glycerine, on which a -temperature of -50 deg. had little effect, became, at -70 deg., perfectly solid -and quite transparent. Rectified spirits of wine became of the -consistency of hair-oil. Concentrated rum, 40 deg. over-proof, froze hard -when exposed in a shallow vessel like a saucer, but when in a large -quantity it resembled honey or molasses in consistency. Whiskey froze -hard, and we actually broke off bits and ate it! In consequence of this -latter proceeding we have since our return to England been, not without -reason, accused of "hard drinking," an accusation we are, of course, -unable to refute! Chloroform was the only substance on which the low -temperature had no apparent effect. Our temperatures were obtained by -taking the mean of ten thermometers that were exposed, to which result -was applied the corrections from Kew for each instrument. These had been -ascertained when the instruments were tested at the Kew observatory -before leaving England. The corrections and errors of the instruments -could, of course, only be approximately ascertained after the -freezing-point of mercury had been passed, as there was nothing beyond -that with which the spirit could be compared. The slightest impurity of -the spirit used, or the presence of even the most minute portions of -extraneous matter in it, would no doubt seriously affect the accuracy of -the observation. As an instance of the range exhibited by these -instruments, it may be interesting to know that one thermometer -indicated as low a temperature as -82 deg., while, _at the same time_, -another showed only -60 deg.; but by applying the errors deduced at Kew, the -result was as nearly as possible the same. I think that the minimum -temperature recorded by us was, if not absolutely correct, as nearly so -as it was possible to arrive at. - -Although we never again experienced such a severe burst of cold as we -did during the first few days of March, the temperature remained -extraordinarily low, and mercury was in a frozen state during nearly the -whole of that month. The presence of the sun appeared to have little -effect on the temperature, but thermometers exposed to its rays would -frequently rise as high as zero, and sometimes above that point. - -The difference of temperature at the summit and at the base of Cairn -Hill, whose height, as has been stated, was four hundred and fifty feet, -was 51/2 deg., the thermometer rising as the hill was ascended, and falling -again as it was brought down. - -Traces of ptarmigan had frequently been observed in the snow, but it was -not until the 22nd of March that the first bird was seen, although our -sportsmen had been most diligent in their search for them. On that day -two of our pedestrians succeeding in flushing one solitary ptarmigan, -but, as is usual in such cases, they were without guns. Very few of -these birds were afterwards seen in the neighbourhood of the "Alert." -Their appearance caused some little excitement, for we looked upon them -as the harbingers of spring, and as a token that our long winter had -well-nigh terminated. - -On the 25th of March, there was a partial eclipse of the sun, which was -clearly visible to all those who took the trouble to go on deck and, -with a piece of smoked or coloured glass, examine it in spite of a very -low temperature. The first contact was observed at six minutes past four -in the afternoon, and the egress at six o'clock. About .65, or little -more than half the sun, was obscured. - -During the middle of March the quarter-deck housing was removed, and we -were again able to enjoy daylight on the upper deck. Although the low -temperature did not yet admit of our removing the snow from the -hatchways and skylights, yet we were able to clear the tops of our cabin -illuminators, and thus obtain below a slight amount of daylight, -sufficient at any rate to obviate the necessity of incessant -candle-light during the day. It was not until the middle of May, whilst -the sledge travellers were absent, that the skylights were cleared and -the snow removed from the upper deck. - -Fire is the most disastrous accident that can possibly happen to a ship -wintering in the Arctic Regions, and it should be most carefully guarded -against. It may result in having your house, together with all your -provisions, consumed, and yourselves, perhaps not burnt, but destined -for even a more terrible fate, namely, turned out on the ice without -food and without shelter, exposed to a pitiless temperature, with no -covering or protection of any description. Such a situation would prove -fatal in a few hours. Men so placed would realize the dreadful fate so -vividly and graphically described by Jules Verne as having befallen -Captain Hatteras and his companions when their ship was destroyed and -they were deserted by their shipmates. - -In the "Alert" we had one alarm from fire, which, although it might have -ended disastrously, did very little injury. It originated in our -"drying-room," where, through the carelessness of the man in charge, -some of the clothes had been allowed to hang in dangerous proximity to -the stove. These igniting quickly communicated the fire to the -surrounding objects, and for a little time it was doubtful whether the -conflagration might not assume a very serious aspect. In spite of the -occurrence happening at night-time, the men exerted themselves with such -good will that the fire was speedily extinguished, with no further -damage done than the destruction of a few clothes, although it was some -time before we could rid ourselves of the smoke, which unpleasantly -permeated the whole ship. The temperature at the time was 58 deg. below -zero, which would have rendered the work of supplying water from the -fire-hole not only a difficult, but also a dangerous task, and one which -must have resulted in many severe frost-bites. - -During the latter part of the month of March the officers were employed -in dismounting the various instruments in the observatories, carefully -packing and putting them away, as most of them would not be required -again until the following winter. This was a very necessary proceeding, -as before the return of the officers from sledge travelling the -observatories with all their "fixings," such as pedestals, etc., being -composed of snow, would have melted away during the summer thaw. By the -end of the month the observatories were entirely stripped and left bare, -when they gradually fell into decay. "Woolwich" was also "unsnowed," and -the powder brought off to the ship and stowed in the magazine. - -In addition to all this work, the crews of the different sledges -destined to take part in the spring campaign were, in this month of -March, specially exercised, under their respective officers, for several -hours during the day. Their regular daily exercise had also been -carefully attended to throughout the winter. - -Occasionally they were employed laying out depots of provisions to the -southward, to be used by the sledge parties proceeding northwards from -the "Discovery," or sometimes dragging their laden sledges over the pack -in the immediate vicinity of the ship, with the object of gaining -experience in crossing ridges of hummocks, and of realizing the kind of -travelling with which they were so soon to become more intimately -acquainted. These little journeys gave us an insight into the endless -difficulties that we were hereafter called upon to contend with, and the -obstacles we were destined to surmount. We foresaw that we should have -"stiffish" work before us, but we did not doubt that we should render a -good and satisfactory account of the duty entrusted to us. - -After several cries of "wolf," one actually did make its appearance on -the 1st of April. Early in the morning of that day an animal had been -observed, by the quarter-master of the watch, stealthily prowling round -the ship. Supposing it to be a bear, the alarm was given and one or two -of our hunters went in chase. More would undoubtedly have followed their -example, but recollecting the day, they preferred remaining in their -warm beds for an hour longer to the risk of being informed, when they -came on deck fully equipped for the chase, that it was the 1st of April! - -The traces left in the snow showed unmistakeably the character of our -visitor. Instead of being a bear, it proved to be a wolf, but so alarmed -was it at the disturbance made on board that it scampered over the hills -and eluded our pursuit. That same afternoon, however, accompanied by my -usual companion Nellie, I took a long walk to the southward, following -the trail of the wolf for some distance. On my return, and when about -two miles and a half from the ship, I happened to look round, and there, -about a hundred yards off, and following in my track, was a tall, gaunt, -raw-boned and famished-looking wolf. He was of a yellowish colour, and -in size larger than our biggest Eskimo dog. Of course, as is generally -the way in cases of this sort, I was totally unprovided with arms of -any description, and was therefore unable to add his skin to our natural -history collection. I cannot say whether Nellie or her master offered -the greatest attraction to this animal; but whichever it might be, he -followed us, sometimes at not more than ten yards distance, stopping if -we stopped, and advancing when we advanced, until we were within about -half a mile from the ship, when some of my messmates coming out to meet -me, he bolted over the hills and made his escape. My great anxiety at -the time was for my poor old Nellie, who showed a great inclination to -become better acquainted with the wolf, and I had the utmost difficulty -in restraining her. Whenever she strayed a little from my heel, the -brute would make a bolt at her, and I have little doubt that she would -have been killed if he had once succeeded in his endeavours. On the same -evening we discovered the tracks of four musk-oxen, but although we -followed them up for many miles we did not succeed in seeing them. The -fact of the latter being in our neighbourhood fully accounted for the -presence of the wolf, who was no doubt following their tracks. - - - - -CHAPTER XIX. - -DETAILS OF SLEDGE TRAVELLING. - - - "Give me some ink and paper in my tent, - I'll draw the form and model of our battle: - Limit each leader to his several charge, - And put in just proportions our small force." - - _Richard III._ - -[Illustration: SLEDGE UNDER SAIL.] - -Hitherto I have purposely abstained from alluding to our spring -operations, as I thought that it would be better to devote a separate -chapter exclusively to the account of the details of sledge equipment. -But it must not be supposed, because I have omitted to say anything -about the sledging during the winter, that it was neglected, and that -our time was entirely occupied with our amusements and observatory -duties. Such was not the case. The preparations for the spring campaign -and the organization of our sledge parties in all its details were very -carefully thought over and matured during the long dark hours of the -winter. All works on this subject had been diligently read, in order -that we might benefit by the experience of our predecessors. Nothing was -neglected that could in any way conduce to the success of the -enterprise, and everything that could possibly add to the health and -comfort of those to be employed on work of such an arduous nature was -carefully considered. The sledges, tents, and other equipments necessary -for travelling had been constructed under the personal superintendence -of Sir Leopold McClintock, who is the highest living authority on Arctic -sledge travelling. A few alterations, which we trusted would also be -improvements, were suggested by the experience gained during the autumn, -and these were all carried out before the return of the sun. The results -justified our anticipations. Out of the four different kinds of sledges -supplied to the expedition those which found most favour with us, and -with which the greatest part of the work was done, were the eight-men -sledges.[1] These dragged easier, and were stronger than either the -smaller or larger description of sledges. So long as the travelling -remains good, that is smooth and level ice with hard snow on its -surface, these sledges may be loaded to 240 lbs. for each man to drag, -and a good day's work to be accomplished. This weight, of course, would -only be dragged on first leaving the ship, or a depot, and decreases at -the rate of about 3 lbs. per man per diem, the amount of provisions -consumed by each individual. What are called the "constant" weights, -which include the sledge, tent, robes, cooking apparatus, pickaxe, -shovel, etc., remain unaltered during the journey. The question of -weight is one requiring the closest attention. - -Every trifling article, even to a small packet of a _dozen pins_ placed -in the medicine chest, has to be weighed and recorded in the general -equipment. The following table shows the weight of the various articles -(being constant weights) required for the equipment of an Arctic sledge -for forty-five days:-- - -EQUIPMENT OF AN EIGHT-MEN SLEDGE, PROVISIONED FOR AN ABSENCE OF -FORTY-FIVE DAYS. - - lb. oz. - Sledge (complete) 130 0 - Tent (complete) 44 0 - Tent poles, five in number 25 0 - Coverlet 31 8 - Extra coverlet (used only in cold weather) 20 0 - Lower robe 23 0 - Waterproof floor-cloth 15 0 - Sail 9 4 - Eight sleeping bags 64 0 - Eight knapsacks (packed) 96 0 - Two pickaxes 14 8 - Shovel 6 8 - Store bag 25 0 - Cooking gear 29 0 - Gun and ammunition 25 0 - Medical stores 12 0 - Instruments 15 0 - ------- - Constant weights 584 12 - Forty-five days' provisions for eight men - (including packages) 1080 0 - -------- - Total 1664 12 - -which, dragged by seven men, is equivalent to about 238 lbs. per man to -drag. - -This should never be exceeded, nor should it even be kept up for any -length of time. - -It will thus be seen that it is impossible for a sledge party to be -absent from the ship for more than seven weeks, at the outside, on its -own resources. In order, therefore, to enable it to remain away for a -longer period, depots of provisions are established during the autumn on -the line of route, and auxiliary sledges are despatched in the spring -from which the extended parties may be replenished with provisions after -they have been away from the ship some two or three weeks. These -auxiliary sledges, on their return, are again completed with provisions -and sent out to meet the extended parties on their way back. By these -means, a sledging party may remain away for as long as twelve or -thirteen weeks. - -Depots can only be laid out when there is a continuous coast line, and -under circumstances when a _cache_ containing provisions can easily be -discovered. When the frozen ocean has to be traversed, depots cannot be -depended upon; for a movement of the ice, or the misfortune of wandering -off the outward bound track during thick weather, would deprive the -travellers of any chance of finding their supplies. The result in such a -case would probably be fatal. The only way of ensuring an extended -absence to a party sledging over the pack, is by sending with it an -additional sledge. This, of course, entails the necessity of traversing -the same road three times over. For the men must never under any -circumstances (other than unavoidable necessity, caused by the sickness -of some of the crew) be allowed to drag more than the outside weight of -240 lbs. at any one time. - -It would, I think, and I am now speaking from experience, be preferable, -when such a journey is necessary, to send a sledge away for only six -weeks rather than to provision a party for three months, and compel the -men to undergo the monotonous and wearisome work of going over the same -ground so often; and, I believe, quite as much work would be -accomplished. - -The tents were all made of the lightest duck,[2] which was sufficient -to protect us from the falling or drifting snow, and the keen cutting -wind. The space inside was, of necessity, very limited; the width in -which each man had to sleep being only fourteen inches. Whilst his head -was touching one side of the tent, his feet were in contact with the -other. The slightest movement of the sleeper during the night would -disturb his neighbours on either side. - -The entrance to the tent had a porch attached to it, which was, of -course, always carefully closed, and served to exclude the fine -snow-drift that would otherwise have penetrated into the interior. The -opposite side of the tent was fitted in a similar manner for the -protection of the cook whilst engaged in preparing the meals. The duties -of the cook during intensely cold weather entail hardships which it is -scarcely possible to overrate. The poor cook is never in his sleeping -bag until two or three hours after the rest of the party have been -comfortably settled for the night, and he has always to rise in the -morning a couple of hours before his comrades are disturbed, and this -after a hard and fatiguing day's work. His cooking apparatus consists of -a spirit lamp, a stearine lamp, a kettle, and a stew-pan. His fuel is -either spirits of wine, or cocoa-nut stearine; and as the allowance of -either is strictly limited, he has to be as economical as he possibly -can. Should his fuel be consumed before the meal is cooked, he will get -no more, and the pemmican will have to be eaten in a semi-frozen state. -The odour and smoke emitted by the stearine can only be appreciated by -those who have served their apprenticeship as cooks to an Arctic sledge -party! Many experiments were tried during the winter to improve our -cooking apparatus, but few were attended with success. Mr. White devoted -a good deal of thought and time to this important matter. By introducing -a cone into the kettle and stew-pan he succeeded in gaining a decided -advantage in rapidity of cooking, but then his plan also had its -disadvantages, a difficulty of cleaning and an encroachment on valuable -space being the chief objections to it. By giving the bottom of the pans -and kettles a little more concavity, we gained a slight advantage in -point of time, and time in cooking also means an economy of fuel. The -tent robes, coverlets, and sleeping bags were all made of duffel. The -knapsacks were made of duck, and contained the only spare clothing that -each man was allowed to take. The contents consisted of two pairs of -blanket wrappers, one pair of wadmill hose, one pair of moccasins, a -skull-cap for sleeping in, a woollen cap presented to each person in the -expedition by H.I.M. the Empress Eugenie, two pairs of mitts, a flannel -shirt, a pair of drawers, a comforter, a pair of snow-spectacles, a -towel, and a piece of soap. The latter was rather a superfluous article -until the thaw set in. - -The store bag contained the pemmican chopper and board, a snow-knife and -saw, some spare lashings of hide for the sledge, matches, slow match, -twine, and various other small and useful articles. - -The scale of provisions to be used whilst sledging was almost identical -with that of preceding expeditions, the only difference being that we -reduced the allowance of spirits by half and doubled the amount of tea -and sugar. The following was the daily ration for each man:-- - - lb. oz. - Pemmican 1 0 - Bacon 0 4 - Biscuit 0 14 - Preserved potatoes 0 2 - Chocolate 0 1 - Sugar for ditto 0 0.5 - Tea for two meals 0 0.5 - Sugar for ditto 0 1.5 - Salt 0 0.25 - Pepper 0 0.05 - Onion powder or curry paste 0 0.125 - Rum 0 2 - Spirits of wine 0 2 - Stearine 0 3 - Tobacco (weekly) 0 3.5 - -This we found a very ample allowance, and one that could not, in my -opinion, be improved upon. The different articles were excellent of -their kind, and of very superior quality. - -Since our return to England, fault has been found with our leader -because lime-juice was not included in the scale of dietary for the -sledges, during April, as a daily ration. Our scale of diet was -necessarily based on that of preceding expeditions, and we had no reason -to expect that we should suffer from that dread disease, scurvy, any -more than did our predecessors. Lime-juice had never before been taken -as a daily ration by an extended sledge party, and Sir Leopold -McClintock, the highest living authority, has since publicly declared -that, in following the precedents established by former experience as -regards the lime-juice, Sir George Nares acted exactly as he would have -done under the same circumstances. Moreover, the lime-juice was -supplied in a form that made it impossible to use during an Arctic -March, April, or May, away from the ship. It was in bottles or very -large heavy jars, and, of course, the moment such vessels were placed -near a fire to thaw their contents, in such a temperature, they would -have been cracked to pieces. This is a conclusive answer to those who, -without experience, and ignorant of the conditions under which we -travelled, have expressed opinions on this subject. After May, when it -was possible to use it, lime-juice was always taken by our sledge -parties as a daily ration. When we came home, the use was suggested of -lime-juice lozenges, and the Medical Director General has proposed that -lime-juice should be mixed with pemmican. It is certainly very much to -be regretted that some such arrangements were not made and carried out -before the expedition left England. It will be seen (if lime-juice would -really have prevented the attack of scurvy) how terribly we had to -suffer from the consequences of the omission. - -Lieutenant Parr and myself each took two bottles of lime-juice, with the -intention of using it when the warm weather of June arrived. It was not -possible to use it to any advantage, hard frozen in a bottle, during -March, April, or May. - -Dr. Colan drew up very careful medical instructions for the commanders -of sledges, and each received some elementary surgical instruction. The -doctor also paid most anxious attention to the contents of the medical -chest, the weight of which was not allowed to exceed 12 lbs.[3] - -The clothing worn by the men engaged in the sledging operations was -somewhat different from that in use during the winter. Our under -clothing was made of thick flannel. Over this we wore one or two flannel -or check shirts, long sleeved woollen waist-coats, thick knitted -guernseys, and duffel trousers, the latter reaching about a foot below -the knee. All wore broad flannel belts, commonly called cholera belts, -round their loins. On our heads we had woollen helmet caps, called by -the men "Eugenies," and over this was worn a thick sealskin cap with ear -and neck flaps attached. - -Our feet were encased in blanket wrappers, one or two pairs according to -the temperature, a pair of thick woollen hose reaching above the knees -and worn over the trousers, and moccasins. The latter, as supplied to -us, only came up round the ankle, so we fitted them with leggings. Those -who were provided with chamois leather made their leggings of that -material, but the majority cut the sleeves off their check shirts which, -when sewn on to the moccasin, answered admirably, their chief use being -to keep the snow from penetrating into the trousers. Some of the -moccasins were also soled with leather, obtained by cutting off the -upper part of the fishermen's boots, a pair of which had been supplied -to each person. As a rule these soles were quickly worn out, and the men -were soon reduced to the bare moccasin, which, however, lasted -wonderfully. - -Large gauntlet mitts were made during the winter, of fearnought covered -with duck, and worn with a strap round the neck. These were only -supplied to the sledgers, and were found very useful. At night-time they -were used on the feet in the sleeping bags, and certainly assisted very -materially in keeping them warm. Finally each person was provided with a -suit of duck overalls, to act as "snow repellers," which were always -worn whilst on the march. As an extra precaution against snow-blindness, -the men were ordered to paint some device on the backs of these snow -jumpers in order to afford a certain amount of relief to the eyes of -their comrades. The designs of these devices or crests were left -entirely to the artistic imaginations of the men, and they caused a good -deal of merriment. They were certainly more quaint than elegant. Donkeys -and Polar bears in various wonderful positions appeared to be in the -greatest favour. Each crest was accompanied by a motto, invariably a -Latin one. Whether these devices relieved us from severe attacks of -snow-blindness or not it would be difficult to decide. They served at -any rate to amuse us, and often formed the topic of conversation when -other subjects were getting scarce. Snow-spectacles were invariably used -by the travellers, and were only taken off after the party had halted -for the night and had sought the shelter of their tent. In consequence -of the adoption of these snow-goggles when we first set out on our -travels, we were comparatively exempt from that painful disease, -snow-blindness, from which other expeditions have more or less suffered, -and which renders the patient so attacked utterly helpless. We -occasionally had a few cases, but with one or two exceptions they were -in a very mild form. - -Such were the details of the general equipment of the sledging parties -that were despatched from the "Alert" in the spring of 1876. Officers -and men shared alike in everything; they had the same provisions, their -costume was identical, they shared the same couch and tent, and each -showed the same zealous desire to perform his duty, and the same eager -anxiety to bring to a successful issue the service on which they were -employed. - -Although the whole of the available force on board the "Alert" was -engaged in the sledging operations of the spring, we were only able to -despatch _two_ extended parties.[4] The rest of the men and sledges were -required to act as auxiliaries to the advanced parties, and were -continually employed during the summer until the return of all the -travellers brought our sledging operations to a conclusion. - -The programme to be carried out, and which was determined upon after -very mature and careful deliberation, was for one party, the command of -which was given to Aldrich the first lieutenant, to continue the -discoveries of the autumn by exploring the coast line to the westward; -whilst a larger party, which was entrusted to my conduct, was to push -across the rugged polar pack, and endeavour to reach as high a northern -latitude as possible. The exploration of the north side of Greenland, to -the eastward, and the examination of the fiords in Robeson Channel, were -left to the sledge parties from the "Discovery." - -The difficulties to be encountered and the serious obstacles to be -overcome in the journey due north over the frozen sea were well -understood. We had made ourselves acquainted with the nature of the -travelling to be anticipated by various short excursions on the ice in -the vicinity of the ship, and were, therefore, fully aware of the -serious character of the work that was before us. None were so rash as -to indulge in any extravagant ideas of successfully reaching a very high -position. The parallel of 84 deg., or perhaps 85 deg. by the more sanguine, was -regarded as the highest that could possibly be attained. - -It was a well-known fact, before the ship went into winter quarters, -that the polar pack, composed of extraordinarily heavy ice, was in -motion at that season. This motion, or perhaps a general disruption, -would occur, it was calculated, in about July or August, possibly in -June. It was, therefore, not only a measure of prudence, but one of -absolute necessity, that the party destined to travel over this frozen -ocean should be provided with the means of safety to themselves, if a -disruption should take place at an earlier period than was anticipated. -It was therefore decided that two boats,[5] capable of conveying the -whole party from one floe to another, should form part of the equipment -of the northern division. This additional weight, of course, seriously -augmented the labour of the men. - -The only previous attempt to advance over a frozen sea, away from the -land, was made by Sir Edward Parry, in his memorable journey towards the -North Pole in 1827.[6] - -For reasons already stated, the northern party was unable to lay out -depots on the ice, nor could our sledges be met by supporting sledges -until after their return to the land. It therefore became necessary that -they should carry with them sufficient provisions to last for the whole -time of anticipated absence. This, with the boats, obliged the two -sledge crews composing the division to take with them a _third_ sledge, -so that under the most favourable conditions of travelling, they would -be compelled, after advancing two sledges, to return over the same road -and drag on the third. This we fondly hoped on starting we should be -able to accomplish; little did we think that the fearfully rugged nature -of the road would necessitate the same distance being traversed five or -even seven times. - -For the same reason that the men were ordered to emblazon arms and -crests on the backs of their clothes, we had the boats which were to -accompany the sledges painted with gay and brilliant devices. The rose, -shamrock, and thistle were painted on the hulls, and the royal arms -decorated their sterns. Moss, on this as on other occasions, was the -artist; his great difficulty in accomplishing the work being that in -spite of the quantity of turpentine with which the paint was mixed, it -persisted in freezing in the brush, rendering that article more like a -stick than an artist's pencil. - -The sledges were, of course, all named by their commanders. - - -FOOTNOTES: - - [1] The eight-men sledge has six uprights eighteen inches apart. It - is eleven feet long, three feet two inches wide, eleven inches high, - and weighs 130 lbs. complete. In former expeditions sails were - frequently used on the sledges to great advantage, when travelling - over smooth ice. But we were seldom so fortunate as to meet with ice - which was suitable for sailing, in any of our sledge journeys. May - and Egerton got their sledges under sail on an extensive floe in - Robeson Channel, when they crossed over to the Greenland side; but as - a rule the ice we met with was far too rough to make the use of sails - practicable. In rigging a sail on the sledge two tent poles are - lashed together as a yard, with a spare pole as a foot yard. The - other two tent poles are used as shears, and at their ends a - mast-head iron, or shear head, is fitted, consisting of two rings - united by a piece of iron about three inches long, from the centre of - which there is a hook on each side for the steadying guys, and a - small block for the halyards is seized on to the iron between the - rings. A spare cross-bar is placed on the top of the lading, over the - midship uprights, and lashed down to the bearer. It is fitted with a - span seized along its top-side, and the bights, with a thimble in - each, project just beyond the cross-bar. The ends of the shears are - then stepped into the thimbles attached to this cross-bar, and the - sail hoisted. On smooth ice, with the wind aft or on the quarter, a - sledge will travel under sail at a good pace. But smooth ice was - almost unknown in the region explored by our expedition. - - [2] The tents were of light, close, unbleached duck. The eight-men - tents were nine feet four inches long at the bottom, and eight feet - at the top, seven feet wide and high, and weighed 44 lbs. The tent - ropes are six fathoms long of one and a quarter inch, and the tent - poles eight feet six inches long. - - [3] The medical stores for each sledge were:--2 phials of sal - volatile and aromatic spirits of ammonia; 2 phials of laudanum; 2 - phials of wine of opium; a small tin of Gregory's powders; 12 papers - (10 grains each) of Dover's powders; 32 papers (15 grains each) of - chalk powders; 30 papers (4 grains each) of sugar of lead; a bottle - of turpentine liniment; a phial of carbolic acid; glycerine ointment; - white ointment; carbolic plaster; 4 dozen purgative pills; oil silk. - Sponge, pins, expanding splints, and carbolized tow, cotton wool, a - catheter, a tourniquet, a truss with pad, a lancet, twill, Persian - gauze, 2 eye shades, small splint, scissors, flannel ice goggles, - tape, mustard, 3 calico bandages, 2 flannel bandages, and lint. These - stores were in a wooden case, and a medicine tin for bottles, - together weighing 4 lbs.; while their contents weighed 7 lbs. 11 - ozs., together, 12 lbs. - - [4] Our available force was much smaller than that of the expeditions - under Sir Horatio Austin (1850-51), and Sir Henry Kellet (1852-54). - They enjoyed the great advantage of having a third larger - force--ninety instead of sixty men. - - [5] The sledges for carrying boats have the two end cross-bars fitted - with two cleats, one on each side of the boat's keel. These cleats - are seven inches long, and are securely lashed to the cross-bars. Two - battens of American elm, each two inches wide and half an inch thick, - are lashed in a fore and aft direction to the top of the cross-bars - three and a half inches apart, that is to say one and three-quarters - inch on each side of the central bearer. They are sufficiently long - to allow of being secured to all the cross-bars. When the boat is - placed on the sledge the keel rests on the cross-bars between the - cleats, and is held in an upright position by one long cushion of - stout canvas, stuffed with cork cuttings, on each side, and these are - kept in their places by lashings. - - [6] As Sir Edward Parry's attempt to reach the Pole was the only - extended journey that was ever undertaken due north across the Polar - Sea, until the second attempt was made by the northern division of - sledges under my command, it will be well to give, in this place, the - details of Parry's equipment and the result of his expedition. - - A Sir Edward Parry sailed from England in the "Hecla," on April 3rd, - 1827; when placing her in a safe harbour on the north coast of - Spitzbergen, he commenced his memorable attempt to reach the Pole on - June 21st. He had two boats, the "Enterprise" and the "Endeavour." - Parry himself, with Mr. Beverley, was in the former, James Ross and - Edward Bird in the latter. Ten seamen and two marines formed the crew - of each boat. The boats were flat-bottomed, with the extreme breadth - of seven feet, carried well forward and aft, and twenty feet long, - the timbers of tough ash and hickory. On the outside frame a system - of planking was adopted with a view to securing elasticity in the - frequent concussions with the ice. This consisted of a covering of - waterproof canvas coated with tar, then a thin fir plank, then a - sheet of felt, and, lastly, a thin oak plank, all secured to the - timbers by iron screws. On each side of the keel there was a strong - runner shod with metal, like that of a sledge, on which the boats - entirely rested when on the ice. A hide span across the fore-part of - the runners had two horse-hair drag ropes attached to it. The boats - had two thwarts, a locker at each end, a light framework along the - sides for containing provisions and spare clothes, a bamboo mast, and - tanned duck sail, fourteen paddles, and a steer oar. They started - with seventy-one days' provisions. The weight of each boat was 1,539 - lbs., and the total weight, with provisions, 3,753 lbs., or 268 lbs. - per man; besides four light taboggan sledges weighing 26 lbs. each. - The daily allowance for each man was 10 ozs. of biscuit, 9 ozs. of - pemmican, 1 oz. of cocoa, and 1 gill of rum. Parry took no - lime-juice. They slept in the boat with sails as awnings, and - travelled during the night. - - They sailed in the boats until June 23rd, when it became necessary to - haul them on the ice in 81 deg. 12' 51'' N. The actual travelling then - began over floes of small extent, intersected by hummocks. After a - journey of thirty days, Parry reached his most northern point on July - 23rd, in latitude, by dead reckoning, 82 deg. 45' N. No actual - observation for latitude was obtained at their extreme northern - point. They had travelled ninety-two miles over the ice, and two - hundred in the boats before they hauled them on to the floe, but were - only one hundred and seventy-two miles from the "Hecla." Such had - been the drift of the floes to the southward. The boats returned to - the "Hecla" on August 21st, and Parry arrived in England again on - October 6th. - - This journey was made in the middle of summer after the disruption of - the ice. The daily allowance of food for the men was insufficient, - and the weight of 26 lbs. for each man was too great. But these were - points which could only be learnt by experience, and Sir Edward Parry - was the pioneer of Arctic sledge travelling. He attained the highest - northern latitude ever before reached by man, and it was forty-eight - years and two months before any explorer succeeded in going beyond - the parallel which Parry reached in 1827. - - - - -CHAPTER XX. - -THE JOURNEY OF EGERTON AND RAWSON. - - - "You were used to say, - Extremity was the trier of spirits, - That common chances common men could bear, - That when the sea was calm, all boats alike - Showed mastership in floating." - - SHAKESPEARE. - -It was a part of Captain Nares's scheme for the spring campaign that, -before the departure of the extended parties, a dog sledge should be -despatched to communicate with our consort wintering some fifty miles to -the southward of us. - -The officers and men of the "Discovery" were, of course, in total -ignorance of our position and even of our safety, for no communication -had taken place between the two ships since the day of our departure -from Discovery Harbour, seven months before. As soon as there was -sufficient light to admit of travelling, the important and necessary -duty had to be undertaken of conveying information to her respecting our -position, so that the anxiety of her people concerning our safety might -be relieved, and also that the Captain of the "Discovery" might be made -acquainted with our intentions regarding the routes of exploration -allotted to our sledge travellers. The parties from the "Discovery" -would then adopt other routes, and thus the area of unknown country to -he explored would be extended to the utmost limit possible. The work of -the expedition, consisting of the journeys of the different parties from -the two ships, taking different routes, would thus embrace all that -human effort could achieve with the means provided. - -[Illustration: DOGS AND SLEDGE.] - -The duty of communicating with the "Discovery" was entrusted to Egerton; -and Rawson, who was naturally desirous of re-visiting his ship, was -allowed to accompany him. Their sledge was dragged by a team of nine -dogs, and the party was provisioned and equipped for an absence of ten -days. If they failed in accomplishing their object in that time, and -their supplies became exhausted, they could replenish their stock from -the large depot that had been established during the previous autumn at -a point about midway between the two ships, in Lincoln Bay. Petersen, -the Danish interpreter, accompanied the two officers in the capacity of -dog driver. - -In consequence of the very low temperature experienced during the first -week in March, their time of departure had to be deferred. Sunday, the -12th of March, was the day eventually selected for the start of this the -first sledging expedition of the season. - -The temperature on that morning was low, but rose gradually towards -noon, until it seemed inclined to remain stationary at 30 deg. below zero. - -There were further indications of a continuance of fine weather, from -the day being bright and clear and the barometer steady. Letters to our -friends on board the "Discovery" were hastily finished. Immediately -divine service had been performed the colours were hoisted, and amidst -the cheers of "all hands," who had assembled on the floe to bid the -travellers God speed, H.M. sledge "Clements Markham," with its bright -standard fluttering out bravely before a light breeze, started with the -object of renewing intercourse with our comrades in the "Discovery." - -For the next two or three days our thoughts on board were constantly -with the absent ones, especially as the temperature, shortly after their -departure, had again fallen very low. This, however, caused us little -uneasiness, for we knew that everything that lay in our power had been -done to protect them from any sudden and extreme cold, and we all had -the greatest confidence in the skill, discretion, and sound judgment of -our two messmates. Many a silent prayer was offered up in their behalf, -that they might accomplish their mission in safety, and return speedily -with good news of those who, like ourselves, were wintering in the ice. - -On the third day they returned unexpectedly with a sad tale of woe and -suffering, and with the poor Dane utterly prostrate and helpless on the -sledge. I cannot do better than relate the sad story in Lieutenant -Egerton's own words. - -We read in his official report, that not five hours after they had left -the ship "frost-bites became so numerous, that I thought it advisable to -encamp." - -This was only the beginning of the story, for they appear to have passed -a comparatively comfortable night. - -At any rate they were up early the next morning and again under weigh; -at about one o'clock, when they halted for lunch, Petersen complained of -cramp in his stomach and was given some hot tea. He had no appetite, -which perhaps was as well, for we read of the bacon, which is always -used for lunch, "We were unable to eat it, being frozen so hard that we -could not get our teeth through the lean." They still continued their -journey, encountering some very rough travelling, which necessitated -severe physical labour on the part of the two officers. "The dogs were -of little or no use in getting across these slopes, as it was impossible -to get them to go up the cliff, and Petersen being unable to work, -Lieutenant Rawson and I had to get the sledge along as best we could." -Towards the end of the day we read: "Petersen began to get rather worse, -and was shivering all over, his nose being constantly frost-bitten, and -at times taking five or ten minutes before the circulation could be -thoroughly restored. Lieutenant Rawson had several small frost-bites, -and I escaped with only one." - -On halting for the night, directly the tent was pitched they sent -Petersen inside with strict injunctions to shift his foot gear and get -into his sleeping-bag, whilst they busied themselves in preparing supper -and attending to the dogs; but when they entered the tent, they found -"that he had turned in without shifting his foot gear, was groaning a -good deal, and complaining of cramp in the stomach and legs." - -Having made him change, they gave him some tea, and then administered a -few drops of sal volatile, which appeared to give the poor fellow a -little ease. - -The next morning the wind was so high and their patient in such a weak -state that they did not think it prudent to attempt a start. He had -passed a very restless night, and still complained very much of cramp. - -Later in the day he appeared to get worse, "shaking and shivering all -over and breathing in short gasps. His face, hands, and feet were all -frost-bitten, the latter severely, and he had pains in his side as -well." After restoring the circulation they rubbed him with warm -flannels and placed one of their comforters round his stomach. - -In such a wretched state was the poor fellow that they agreed it would -endanger his life if they proceeded on their journey; and that when the -weather moderated the only course they could pursue was to return with -all haste to their ship. - -As it was impossible to keep their patient warm in the tent, these two -young officers burrowed a hole in a snow-drift, and into this cavity -they transported the sick man, themselves, and all their tent robes, -closing the aperture by placing over it the tent and sledge. They -deprived themselves of their own clothing for the benefit of the -invalid, whose frozen feet they actually placed inside their clothes in -direct contact with their bodies, until their own heat was extracted and -they were themselves severely frost-bitten in various parts. The poor -fellow was now in a very low state; he could retain neither food nor -liquid. "About 6 P.M. he was very bad; this time worse than before. -There appeared to be no heat in him of any kind whatever, and he had -acute pains in the stomach and back. We chafed him on the stomach, -hands, face, and feet, and when he got better wrapped him up in -everything warm we could lay our hands upon," namely, their own -clothing, which they could ill afford to lose; but they entirely forgot -their own condition in their endeavours to ameliorate that of their -comrade. Lighting their spirit lamp and carefully closing every crevice -by which the cold air could enter, they succeeded in raising the -temperature of the interior to 7 deg.; but "the atmosphere in the hut became -somewhat thick!" This was, however, preferable to the intense cold. Let -us follow the story out, and learn how nobly these two officers tended -their sick and suffering companion. "We were constantly asking if he was -warm in his feet and hands, to which he replied in the affirmative; but -before making him comfortable" (fancy being _comfortable_ under such -circumstances!) "for the night, we examined his feet, and found them -both perfectly gelid and hard from the toes to the ankle, his hands -nearly as bad. So each taking a foot we set to work to warm them with -our hands and flannels, as each hand and flannel got cold _warming them -about our persons_, and also lit up the spirit lamp. In about two hours -we got his feet to, and put them in warm foot gear, cut his bag down to -allow him more room to move in, and then wrapped him up in the spare -coverlet. His hands we also brought round and bound them up in flannel -wrappers, with mitts over all. Gave him some warm tea and a little rum -and water, which he threw up. Shortly after I found him eating snow, -which we had strictly forbidden once or twice before. In endeavouring to -do this again during the night, he dragged his feet out of the covering; -but only a few minutes could have elapsed before this was detected by -Lieutenant Rawson, who, upon examining his feet, found them in much the -same state as before. We rubbed and chafed them again for over an hour, -and when circulation was restored wrapped him up again, and so passed -the third night." - -The patience and endurance of the two officers are beyond all praise. It -is difficult to realize the misery of that night. Wearied with the -severe physical exertions of the two previous days, having their own -meals to prepare and the dogs to look after, they had to pass a -sleepless and anxious night in their endeavours to keep life in the body -of their half-frozen comrade. - -On the following morning Petersen appeared to be slightly better, so -thinking it was preferable to run the risk of taking him back as he was, -than to pass such another night as the last, they put him on the sledge, -and, having hurriedly eaten their breakfast, they started for the ship -with all despatch. They had a rough journey before them of eighteen -miles; but they knew it was a case of life and death, and they -encouraged the dogs to their utmost speed. The dogs, being homeward -bound, were willing enough and needed little persuasion, so that, for a -time, they rattled along at a good pace. But actual progress could not -have been very rapid, for we read in Egerton's report that the patient's -"circulation was so feeble that his face and hands were constantly -frost-bitten, entailing frequent stoppages whilst we endeavoured to -restore the affected parts." The difficulties of the homeward journey -may be gathered from the following extracts: "On arriving at the Black -Cape we had to take the patient off the sledge, and while one assisted -him round, the other kept the dogs back, for by this time they knew they -were homeward bound, and required no small amount of trouble to hold in. -After getting the sledge round and restoring Petersen's hands and nose -(which were almost as bad again a few minutes after), and securing him -on the sledge, we again set off. At the next cape the same difficulties -were experienced, in fact rather more, for the sledge took charge down a -'ditch,'[1] about twenty-five feet deep, turning right over three times -in its descent, and out of which we had to drag it, and while clearing -harness (which employed us both, one to stand in front of the dogs with -the whip, while the other cleared the lines), the dogs made a sudden -bolt past Lieutenant Rawson, who was in front with the whip, and dragged -me more than a hundred yards before we could stop them. At length, after -the usual process with Petersen (that of thawing his hands and nose, -which we did every time we cleared harness, or it was actually necessary -to stop), we got away, thankful that our troubles were over. The dogs -got their harness into a dreadful entanglement in their excitement to -get home; but we were afraid to clear them lest they should break away -from us, or cause us any delay, as we were both naturally anxious to -return with the utmost speed to the ship, and so relieve ourselves of -the serious responsibility occasioned by the very precarious state in -which our patient was lying. Upon arriving alongside at 6.30 P.M., we -were very thankful that Petersen was able to answer us when we informed -him he was at home." - -Poor fellow! it was the last home he ever reached alive, for in two -short months his remains were carried from the ship and laid in their -last resting-place in this world, on the summit of a low hill -overlooking the scene of his last sledge journey! In conclusion, Egerton -says, "I regret exceedingly that I have been compelled to return to the -ship without having accomplished my journey to H.M.S. 'Discovery;' but I -trust that what I have done will meet with your approval, and that the -course I adopted may be the means of having lessened the very serious -and distressing condition of Petersen." Gallant fellow! of course his -doings meet not only with the approval but the admiration of all -Englishmen who take pride in the noble and heroic deeds of their -countrymen. The work of these two brave young officers on this occasion -stands out conspicuously amongst the many deeds of daring and devotion -with which the annals of Arctic adventure abound. - -It must be remembered that during the time they were away the sun had -only just made its reappearance, and was therefore at a very low -altitude, so that little benefit could be derived from its rays; and it -only afforded sufficient light to enable the travellers to keep on the -march for about eight or nine hours a day.[2] On the 20th of March, five -days after the return from their calamitous journey, the same two -officers made another and a more successful start. On this occasion they -were accompanied by a couple of sailors, and their sledge was dragged by -a team of seven dogs. In five days, after a severe and toilsome journey, -rendered doubly so by the extreme cold and the heavy nature of the road -over which they had to travel, they reached the "Discovery," conveying -to her officers and crew the pleasing intelligence of our safety, and -receiving in return an account of the happy winter passed by them. - -Poor Petersen never recovered from the effects of this journey. He -rallied a little after he arrived on board, and was placed under the -tender and skilful treatment of Dr. Colan, who for some time held out -slight hopes of his recovery; but the injuries he had received were of -too serious a nature to admit of much hope, and he gradually sank until -he expired peacefully on the 14th of May. Perhaps it was better that it -should be so, for the poor fellow would not only have been disfigured by -losing portions of his nose and ears, but he would also have been a -cripple, for the doctor had been compelled to amputate both his feet in -order to stop the mortification from extending. These frost-bites are -indeed very dreadful, and must always be quickly taken in hand so as to -avoid any serious result. - -So cold were the frozen limbs of poor Petersen, that his companions said -it was like touching cold steel, and produced frost-bite almost as -rapidly as if they were really touching a piece of metal! - -Although this chapter is rather a mournful one, and has a very -melancholy termination, I make no apology for having devoted it entirely -to our first sledging expedition of the season, believing that my -readers will feel both pride and pleasure in hearing of the noble -conduct of my two messmates. - - -FOOTNOTES: - - [1] By a "ditch" is meant a hollow formed between a high snow-drift - and a hummock or any projection. Some of these ditches were very - steep and precipitous. - - [2] In previous expeditions parties have left their ships in March; - but the March of 75 deg. N. is very different from the March of 82 deg. N. In - the former position the sun has been many days longer above the - horizon than in 82 deg. N. - - - - -CHAPTER XXI. - -THE ROUTINE OF SLEDGE TRAVELLING. - - - "We are well persuaded - We carry not a heart with us from hence - That grows not in a fair consent with ours; - Nor leave not one behind, that doth not wish - Success and conquest to attend on us." - - _Henry V._ - -On the morning of Monday, the 3rd of April, an unwonted bustle and -excitement on board and around the "Alert" betokened that something -unusual was taking place. Men in their travelling costumes might have -been observed busily engaged in adding the last finishing touches to the -already well-packed sledges. Officers, also in travelling attire, were -carefully conveying delicate instruments from the ship to the row of -sledges drawn up in "line of battle" on the floe, whilst the white -ensign flying from the peak bore witness of some important event. - -The day was indeed one of memorable import, for it was the one that we -had all, during the long dark winter, looked forward to as that on which -our real work was to commence. It was the day on which we were to start -forth with the object of achieving all that was possible with the means -at our disposal, in the great and glorious work of increasing the stock -of geographical knowledge respecting the Polar regions. No wonder, -then, that the scene of our winter quarters presented an animated and -unwonted appearance on that bright but intensely cold morning. - -The sledges, seven in number, on two of which were placed the boats to -accompany the northern division, were drawn up in single line, one -before the other, according to the seniority of their respective -leaders. They were all fully equipped and provisioned, and were "manned" -by a force of fifty-three officers and men; a chosen band, eager to -emulate the deeds of their predecessors, and willing to risk their lives -in bringing to a successful issue the task they had resolved to -accomplish. - -A strict medical examination had been held a day or two previously, and -the rather unnecessary question, "Do you feel yourself fit and able in -every way to go sledging?" was put to all. It is needless to record the -answer! - -On the previous day, being Sunday, Pullen preached a capital sermon, -drawing comparisons between the undertaking in which we were about to -engage, and the march of the Israelites to the Promised Land. The hymn -"for those at sea" was sung and the Holy Communion celebrated, at which -latter service there was an exceptionally good attendance, the number of -communicants amongst the men having largely increased. - -From each sledge flew the bright colours of its commander's standard: a -swallow-tailed flag bearing the armorial colours, and emblazoned with -the crest of its owner, each charged with the red cross of St. George. -In addition, the two boats displayed from their mast-heads Captain -Nares's Union Jack and a white ensign. Worked by the fair hands of some -loved and cherished one at home, these standards, as they fluttered out -bravely before a gentle breeze, kindled our enthusiasm, whilst they -materially added to the spirit and gaiety of the scene. - -The sledges were arranged in the following order:--"Marco Polo" (with a -boat), "Challenger," "Victoria" (with a boat), "Poppie," "Bulldog," -"Alexandra," and "Bloodhound;" the latter was only a small sledge party -ordered to accompany us for three or four days, then supply us with -three days' provisions, and return to the ship to report our progress. - -At eleven o'clock, everything being in readiness for a start, all hands -assembled on the floe, and prayers were read by Pullen. The hymn, "God, -from whom all blessings flow," was then sung, after which the order was -given to "fall in," and, amidst the hearty cheers of those few who were -left behind, the sledging parties moved off. The captain and officers -accompanied us for a short distance, when, wishing us Godspeed, they -turned to go back. This was a signal for three cheers from the -travellers, after which they settled down to their work, and the march -was steadily commenced. - -The first day's march was necessarily a short one. It was to many their -introduction to the "drag-ropes," and symptoms of fatigue were soon -detected, caused by the energetic exertions of the inexperienced, who, -unlike the veterans of the previous autumn, overtaxed their strength in -their ardour to perform a good day's work. - -The temperature at starting was 33 deg. below zero, and at this it remained -steady the whole day, rendering the task of writing up our journals when -we halted extremely unpleasant and painful. - -The scene of our first encampment was an animated and picturesque one. -We had marched about six miles from the ship, and the site selected was -at the base of a low brow, forming a connection or isthmus between a -long projecting tongue and the mainland. Here we pitched our seven -tents, from each of which the smoke from the cooking utensils issued, -ascending in spiral columns until lost amidst the clouds. In our rear -were the snow-clad hills, whilst in front was the illimitable frozen -sea. Men hurried about in the execution of various duties incidental to -"pitching for the night," such as the issuing of provisions by the -several sledge-captains, the banking up with snow of the exterior of the -tents, the re-packing of the sledges, or the careful covering up of the -lading so as to ensure its protection from snow-drift; all of which -duties must be sedulously carried out before rest and repose can be -sought in the sleeping-bags. A pleasing aroma of cooking tea was mixed -with the fragrance of stewed pemmican, and made us smack our lips in -anticipation of the meal that was preparing. - -Not the least hard part of a day's work is that of camping after a -toilsome and weary journey, especially when the temperature is low and a -cold sleepless night anticipated; but when the weather is warm enough to -obtain a good night's rest, the order to halt is always received with -very great satisfaction, more especially when a good day's work has been -accomplished, with the prospect of fair travelling on the morrow. - -As soon as the tents are ready for the reception of the men, they enter -one by one, take off their "overalls" for which their duffel coats are -substituted, change their foot gear and get into their sleeping-bags. -This change of foot gear in the morning and evening is the whole extent -of the toilet performed by the sledgers until their return to the ship! - -The following morning we were under weigh pretty early, having spent a -cold wretched night, only too glad to be up and doing something, the -temperature inside our tent, with all the men in their bags, being as -low as 15 deg. below zero. The experience gained during the autumn had a -very salutary effect on the travellers, the apprehension even of -frost-bite being in itself sufficient to banish all idea of sleep. - -The operation of dressing and undressing, although it is entirely -limited to the clothing of the feet, is without doubt one of the most -disagreeable duties connected with sledge travelling. Our hose and -blanket-wrappers, although they were invariably kept _inside_ our -sleeping-bags during the night, were frozen so hard in the morning that -they were with the greatest difficulty folded over our feet. Sometimes -the wrappers were tied round the knees at night-time to protect them -from the cold, for that part of our body seemed more sensitive to the -temperature than any other. - -Not the least trying part of our toilet was lacing and tying the stiffly -frozen strings of our equally hard moccasins with fingers either aching -from cold or devoid of all sensation. Not only was this a very painful -operation, but it was one that sorely taxed and ruffled the equanimity -of our tempers. - -The snow over which we travelled was very soft and, unfortunately for -us, was also very deep, making the dragging with our heavily laden -sledges most laborious, in fact so much so that we were frequently -compelled to resort to "double banking;" that is to say, the two crews -would be employed in first dragging on one sledge and then return to -advance the other. This, of course, made our progress very slow. After -the long confinement of the men during the darkness of the winter, they -were, in spite of the careful attention that had been paid to daily -exercise, hardly in what might be called first-rate condition, so that -fatigue for the first few days was felt by the majority, and not wishing -to impose too much on their zealous desire to push on, short journeys -were in consequence performed. - -On the second day out, the temperature fell to 45 deg. below zero, or 77 deg. -below freezing point. The cold then was so intense as to deprive us of -sleep, the temperature _inside_ the tent being as low as -25 deg., the whole -period of rest being occupied in attempting to keep the blood in -circulation. Several frost-bites were sustained, but they were all -attended to in time, and resulted in nothing worse than severe and very -uncomfortable blisters. - -So hard were our tent robes and sleeping-bags frozen that they resembled -sheet-iron, and care had to be taken to prevent them from coming into -contact with the face, for an abrasion of the skin would undoubtedly -follow! - -Our curry paste, a small quantity of which we used to mix with our -pemmican to make it more palateable, looked, as the cook of the day -observed, exactly like a piece of brass, and was equally hard. Cramp in -the legs was complained of by many during the first few nights, but -gradually wore off, having in all probability been induced by the severe -and unaccustomed exercise. Thirst was also a subject of complaint, and -this, except at meal times, it was impossible to alleviate; for -although each man was supplied with a tin water-bottle covered with -duffel, the water could not be prevented from freezing, in spite of the -bottles being kept inside the waistbands of the men's trousers. The -practice of quenching thirst by putting snow or ice into the mouth is a -very dangerous one and was never permitted. - -On the fourth day out we parted with our little sledge, the -"Bloodhound," which, having fulfilled its mission, returned to the ship, -taking back one of our party, who appeared unable to stand the fatigues -of sledging, and leaving one of their crew to fill his vacancy. We were -thus able to send back intelligence of our progress so far, and to -report the health of the men to be satisfactory, and that all were in -capital spirits. On the 10th of April the six sledges in company arrived -at the depot of provisions established near Cape Joseph Henry during the -autumn, and found it undisturbed. The remainder of that day was employed -in bringing the provisions off to the sledges, which were left on the -ice, and in distributing them. The next morning was thick and foggy, the -atmosphere being rendered doubly obscure by a heavy fall of snow. - - "The cold, uncomfortable daylight dawned, - And the white tents, topping a low ground fog, - Show'd like a fleet becalmed." - -On this day the supporting sledges "Bulldog" and "Alexandra," having -performed the duties allotted to them, bade farewell to their companions -and returned to their ship. The two extended parties advanced on their -solitary missions; the northern division leaving the land and pushing -straight out on the rugged polar pack, whilst the western party -continued the exploration of the coast to the westward. - -It was a strange farewell that was taken on that cold dull day on the -inhospitable ice-floe, amidst bristling hummocks and heaped up -snow-drifts, as the several parties pursued their different courses, one -returning to their Arctic home, the others to unknown difficulties, but -to hoped-for discoveries. - -Brief was the parting, but sincere were the wishes for each other's -success. Hearty British cheers resounded in that icy wilderness, -hitherto undisturbed by the presence of mortal man, as we bade adieu to -our fellow-travellers, the echoes from which had scarce died away before -their forms vanished from our view in the thick driving snow that -shrouded in obscurity the surrounding objects. - -It was, however, no time for reflection; for now all our energies, both -mental and physical, had to be devoted to the furtherance of the great -work with which we were entrusted. The men resolutely seized their -drag-ropes, and with light and willing hearts commenced their toilsome -advance. - -In order to enable my readers to follow us during the time we were -engaged in the sledging operations, I will endeavour to explain, as -briefly as possible, the ordinary daily routine invariably carried out -by those so employed belonging to the "Alert." - -The cook for the day is an important personage, and his duties, as I -have before related, are of a very onerous and trying description. Each -individual composing the sledge crew has to perform this office in turn -during twenty-four hours, and it is one that sorely taxes his patience -and powers of endurance, especially in very cold weather. He gladly -transfers his functions as cook to his successor, happy in the -assurance that his "turn" will not come round for another week, unless -sickness or any other unforeseen event should prostrate any of his -comrades. - -The cook's work commences at an early hour, when, after having lighted -his lamp and converted sufficient ice or snow into water for the morning -meal, he reenters the tent, and walking unconcernedly on the sleeping -forms of his companions, proceeds deliberately to brush from the top and -sides of the tent the condensed moisture that has been accumulating -during the night, and which falls in minute frozen particles on the -coverlet. This operation being concluded, to the no small relief of -those over whom he has been walking, the coverlet is removed, well -brushed, shaken, folded up, and placed on the sledge. He then busies -himself with the important preparations for breakfast. In about two -hours from the time that the cook is called, the cocoa is reported -ready, when the rest of the party are awakened. - -If the weather is very cold, breakfast is discussed in our bags, in -which we all sit up; a comical-looking lot in our grey skull-caps and -duffel coats! The biscuit bag is then laid in the centre of the tent, -spoons are produced, and the pannikins, each containing one pint of warm -cocoa, are handed in. The only articles that were not considered as -common property amongst us were our spoons. These were slightly larger -than an ordinary table-spoon, were made of horn, and supplied to each -sledger by a beneficent Government. We generally carried them slung -round our necks by laniards, or in our pockets. - -The pannikins being emptied they are returned to the cook, who has in -the mean time been preparing the pemmican. So hard is this article -frozen that the portions for use have to be chipped off with a chopper -before they can be put into the stew-pan. - -While the cook's anxiety is momentarily increased by the fear that his -fuel will be consumed before the repast is prepared, and his fingers are -alternately burnt and frost-bitten in his endeavours to trim and adjust -the lamp, prayers are read to those inside, the foot gear is changed and -the sleeping-bags rolled up. By the time this has been done, the -pemmican is ready, passed in, and eaten. Orders are then given to strike -tent, pack sledge, and prepare to march. - -The great secret in packing a sledge properly is to have the weights as -nearly as possible in the centre--as far from the extremes as it is -possible to get them, so that the sledge may rise easily over obstacles. -When all is ready, the drag-ropes are manned, and with a "one, two, -three, haul," and a good pull altogether, the sledge is started and the -march commenced. - -Care should be taken to scrape the pannikins out with a knife, before -the refuse inside has time to freeze, otherwise it will be difficult to -remove. Water for washing purposes, of any description, whilst sledging -is quite out of the question. After marching for about five or six -hours, a halt is called for lunch. This meal consists of four ounces of -bacon, a little biscuit, and a warm pannikin of tea to each man. - -Although the most refreshing and enjoyable of all our meals, luncheon -was, when there was much wind, or the weather intensely cold, a very -trying one. The halt is of necessity long. Frequently an hour or an hour -and a half elapses before the tea is reported ready, during which time -the men are compelled to keep constantly on the move to avoid -frost-bites. When there is much wind the tent is pitched; but this adds -little to our comfort, for it is too cold to remain inside for any -length of time. If we were not all suffering from the same cause, we -should be disposed to laugh at the strange antics of our companions in -their efforts to keep their feet from getting frost-bitten. One man is -"marking time" at the double; another jumping up and down in a frantic -manner; another is sitting down cross-legged like a Turk, or a tailor, -and is occupied in belabouring his feet with his mittened hands, in his -energetic endeavours to restore circulation; whilst another, unable any -longer to endure the cold, commences furiously to kick the sledge, or a -hummock, with both feet like one bereft of his senses. Although halted, -little rest is enjoyed; anxiously is the kettle watched, and many are -the tender inquiries concerning the state of the water inside. "Does it -boil?" is a question frequently asked, and unless the cook is blessed -with an amiable disposition, the perversity of the kettle is sufficient, -at times, to drive him almost distracted. The old saw, "A watched pot -never boils," is fully exemplified. At length, to the relief and delight -of all, the announcement is made that the tea is ready, when all -troubles are forgotten in the pleasure and enjoyment of a warm pannikin -of tea. Sometimes little difficulties would arise in consequence of the -haste with which it was necessary to prepare and discuss this meal. -These, although serious at the time, served afterwards to amuse, and -were soon forgotten. On one occasion, the water having been boiled, and -the cook having, as he thought, carefully added the tea and sugar, which -were as carefully stirred up, the allowance of tea was served out and -eagerly drunk by the wearied sledgers, who were only too glad and -thankful to receive anything warm. It was not until some time after the -allowance had been consumed that the cook discovered he had omitted to -put in the _tea_, and had served out simply a decoction of warm water -and brown sugar! Sometimes the tea was made from salt-water ice, the -cook having inadvertently mixed it before tasting the water! In such a -case we had either to drink it, or get none at all! - -Our bacon was, as a rule, frozen so hard as to be like a piece of -granite, and it was only by thawing it in our warm tea that it became -eatable. This had the effect of converting our tea into a sort of soup! - -The time of halting for the night varied considerably; but it was -generally after ten, eleven, and sometimes twelve hours' steady -marching. The first thing to be done is to select a suitable site as -level as possible and where the snow is not too deep, for pitching the -tent, which should be carefully banked up outside with snow to the -height of two or three feet. Every one assists in this work except the -cook, who is busily engaged in the necessary preparations for the -evening meal. As soon as the tent is ready, the men enter, change their -foot gear, and struggle into their half-frozen bags, their toes and feet -having previously been examined by the officer for the detection of -frost-bites. If a frost-bite is discovered, circulation is immediately -restored, and the injured part dressed by the application of a little -glycerine ointment and some lint. - -As a rule the moccasins, hose, and blanket wrappers are so firmly frozen -together that they are with difficulty separated, and are taken off the -feet as _one_ article of clothing. It is amusing to witness the frantic -exertions made by some of the men in their efforts to struggle into -their duffel coats. They are frozen so stiff and hard that this -operation is always an intensely aggravating one, and even when it is -accomplished, the men are utterly helpless until the warmth from their -bodies has partially thawed the coats and rendered them supple. They -were, with a very great deal of truth, likened to "strait-jackets." - -[Illustration: GETTING READY TO "BAG."] - -By the time that the whole party are comfortably settled in their bags, -supper, consisting of tea and pemmican, is ready and served; after which -pipes are lighted, conversation ensues, and the allowance of grog is -served out. This is undoubtedly the most delightful and happiest part of -the day's proceedings, and I should deprecate very strongly any attempts -to deprive the poor Arctic sledger of his small modicum of rum and -water, provided it was always issued at the same time as ours, and -_never_ during the fatigue and exertions of the day. The quantity is so -small that the most fanatical theorist cannot seriously maintain that it -can do harm. But experience proves that it tends very materially to -cheer and invigorate the men during the short time that they can really -call their own in the whole twenty-four hours, and it certainly imparts -a glow which induces sleep--a very important effect of its use. -Sometimes singing will be the order of the day, or rather evening, or -perhaps a book will be read aloud; but whatever amusement is resorted to -for the purpose of thoroughly enjoying the half-hour after supper, -whether it is singing, reading, or yarning, all are cheerful, contented, -and happy. - -Home is, of course, a great topic of conversation, and what each man -intends doing on his return to England is freely discussed. We know all -about each other, and frequently detect ourselves confiding secrets that -we should under ordinary circumstances divulge only to our bosom -friends. Sometimes a hot argument is maintained between two men -belonging to different counties on the relative merits of the pigs of -their own counties and their manner of feeding; or perhaps they will get -into a discussion on the liberality of large landed proprietors near -whom they may be living. For instance, one man who lived in Devonshire -was extolling Lord Mount Edgcumbe. "Ah! he was a noble lord! he opened -his grounds once a week for the admission of the public." But another -man, hailing from Lancashire, answered by saying, "He didn't see that he -was any better than any other lord; for," he said, "Lord Derby admitted -the public into his park every day, and if it was raining he would send -his carriage for you!" This argument, although I fear not strictly -correct, was unanswerable, and the west countryman had to give in to the -more liberal experiences of his friend. - -Before composing ourselves to sleep, the cook, having made the necessary -preparations for the morning's meal, passes in our coverlet. This is -always the last thing done before closing the door of the tent for the -night. - -How is it possible to describe what this coverlet is like when handed -in? Those who have never been initiated into the mysteries of Arctic -sledge life would be unable to realize what it resembles when unpacked -from the sledge. It is more like a piece of wood or sheet-iron than an -article of woollen material. With the utmost difficulty it is unfolded; -but as for spreading, that is quite out of the question: it stands up in -the centre like a second tent, and refuses to lie flat, in spite of the -beating with which it is assailed. It is only after it has been some -time in this position that it gradually thaws, when it becomes a "wet -blanket" indeed! - -The contents of this chapter may give some idea of the ordinary routine -of a sledge traveller's life. The details were invariably carried out -by the different sledge parties despatched from the "Alert." In the -succeeding chapter we will follow the fortunes of the northern division, -and I shall endeavour to depict briefly the difficulties it had to -contend with, and the manner in which they were surmounted. - - - - -CHAPTER XXII. - -THE NORTHERN DIVISION--TRAVELLING IN APRIL. - - - "These high wild hills, and rough uneven ways, - Draw out our miles and make them wearisome; - And yet your fair discourse hath been as sugar, - Making the hard way sweet and delectable.... - But I bethink me, what a weary way!" - - _Richard II._ - -The different sledge parties having branched off, as related in the -preceding chapter, I must request my readers to follow the fortunes of -the northern division, which was under my command. - -The serious obstacles that so persistently impeded our progress were -immediately encountered. The retreating forms of our comrades, who had -assisted us thus far, were scarcely out of sight before we were busily -engaged in constructing a road along which to drag our sledges. These -roads were rendered necessary in consequence of the rugged nature of the -ice over which we had to travel, the floes being of the smallest -dimensions as regarded superficial area, and surrounded by broad fringes -of squeezed-up hummocks. The hummocks proved most formidable impediments -to our advance. No sooner had we congratulated ourselves upon -successfully accomplishing a passage through one line of these -obstacles, than ~~ 274 another, and perhaps a more ragged and -apparently impassable hedge, appeared in front of us. It seemed as if a -terrible conflict had been fought between these ponderous masses of ice, -which had so shattered and split them up as to suggest to us the idea -that they resembled a tempestuous broken sea suddenly frozen. - -[Illustration: OUTWARD AND RETURN TRACKS ON THE SEA ICE. - -Made by the Northern Sledging Party under the command of Commander A. H. -MARKHAM.] - -To make any advance at all, pickaxes and shovels were in constant -requisition, and with these implements we succeeded in hewing and -cutting a road for our sledges, by which we were able to make a -snail-like progress. The roughness of the road was not our only -difficulty. Around and about the hummocks the snow had drifted to such a -depth that the men were frequently floundering in it up to their waists, -and passages through this had to be cleared with shovels before the -sledges could be dragged on. Occasionally the sledges would have to be -unpacked and lightened considerably before they could be dragged through -this deep soft snow. - -We, at first, attempted to console ourselves with the idea that this -irregular and broken sea of ice was only caused by our proximity to the -land; and that we should, as we advanced in a northerly direction, meet -with smooth level floes, on which we should be able to travel along -merrily, and so make up for the time expended in struggling through the -hummocks. - -How delusive proved our hopes and anticipations the sequel will show! -The belts of hummocks that separated the floes varied from twenty yards -to half a mile in breadth, and were from fifteen to fifty feet in -height. - -Road-making, as we called it, was a work of daily, I may say of -constant, occurrence. We regarded our pickaxes with great affection, and -they were consequently treated with the utmost tenderness and care. Any -mishap to them would have been indeed a serious misfortune, as we should -have nothing to supply their place, and would therefore have been in a -predicament in which we could neither advance nor return. The anxiety -with which they were watched may therefore be imagined. - -Instead of giving simply a brief _resume_ of our sledging life, it will, -I think, be more interesting to follow the sledge parties day by day in -their arduous march to the northward, and their still more irksome and -wearisome return journey. To do this, it will be as well to extract -portions from my daily journal, avoiding repetition as much as possible, -and commencing on the day after that on which we were left by our -supporting sledges to prosecute our undertaking. - -_April 12th._--A most gratifying and unexpected change of weather -enabled us to pass a comparatively comfortable night, the temperature -inside our tent being as high as +16 deg.. Hitherto it has stood at, and -generally far below, zero. With the thermometer in the air registering a -few degrees below zero, it is just possible to keep ourselves warm -enough inside our tents to sleep; but with a temperature ranging from --35 deg. downwards sleep is almost out of the question. - -In order to keep the sun as much as possible at our backs during the -time we were on the march, we adopted the system of travelling, whilst -on our outward journey, between noon and midnight. The cooks were, as a -rule, called at about half-past nine in the forenoon, and the sledges -were generally on the move about half-past eleven. This time of -travelling was selected more with a view to the prevention of snow -blindness than anything else. - -After breakfast the road-makers, six in number, were advanced for the -purpose of constructing a road through an ugly fringe of hummocks on the -southern side of which our camp had been pitched; the rest of the party -being employed in striking the tents, packing and bringing on the -sledges, one by one, as far as the road was practicable. Being a bright -sunny day the tent robes and other gear were triced up to the boats' -masts and yards to dry. The sun was powerful enough to extract the -moisture from the woollen substance, which would freeze, forming a sort -of hoar-frost that could with ease be brushed or shaken off. - -On these bright clear days, the snow on the surface of the floes over -which we were journeying was so highly crystallized that it sparkled and -glittered with the most brilliant iridescent colours. The ground upon -which we trod appeared to be strewn with bright and lustrous gems, of -which the most prominent were diamonds, rubies, emeralds, and sapphires. -It was indeed a fairy-like scene; but our duties were too matter of fact -to admit of our indulging for any time in romance or sentiment. - -A glance at our comrades would quickly recall us to the reality of our -situation. Their dirty and rough-clad forms were strangely at variance -with the scene of enchantment that might be conjured up. With faces -scarified by the combined action of sun and frost, and black with smoke, -with the tips of their fingers senseless from repeated frost-bites, with -sore shoulders and aching limbs, the wearied sledgers pursued their way, -not altogether indifferent to the beauties that surrounded them, but -careless of the difficulties and discomforts they encountered. - -During the afternoon, being about three miles from the nearest land, we -observed, to our surprise, the fresh traces on the snow of a little -lemming! It is hard to tell what inducement this little animal could -have had for straying so far away from the land, and consequently from -its means of obtaining the wherewithal to support life! - -We passed through a dense mass of hummocks, emerging, eventually, on a -heavy floe of "ancient lineage," whose surface was undulating, and -adorned with veritable "ice-mountains" some twenty feet in height. These -were generally of a rounded form and of a smooth surface, and appeared -to be the result of long and continuous snow-drift. We camped on the -northern edge of the floe, the men being employed in cutting a road -through the hummocks whilst supper was preparing, in readiness for our -start on the morrow. - -A journey through, and over, hummocks is the most unsatisfactory kind of -travelling that can possibly be imagined. "Standing pulls" must be the -order of the day, and the incessant "one, two, three, haul" is -constantly heard. The trudging backwards and forwards to drag the -different sledges to the front along the same road is decidedly -monotonous; but this had no effect on the cheerfulness and general good -spirits of the men, who were all actuated by the same zealous desire to -do their best. The temperature all day had been delightful, ranging from -8 deg. to 20 deg. below zero. - -_April 13th._--A dull, cloudy day, with the sun shining at intervals, -and the temperature as low at one time as -33 deg.. We cut a road and -dragged the sledges through a fringe of hummocks about two hundred yards -in breadth, then crossed a fine large floe that afforded us capital -travelling for nearly a mile in a northerly direction, then through -another long fringe of large and troublesome hummocks, until we were -completely brought to a standstill by a mass of enormous fragments of -ice, piled up in an irregular form to the height of from twenty to -thirty feet. Through this obstacle we resolved to cut a road: in fact, -no other alternative offered. It was a long and tedious job; but with -such a hearty good will did the men work that we had the satisfaction of -dragging our sledges over a very rough road and encamping for the night -with the difficulties in our rear. Parr with pickaxe and shovel was a -first-rate "navvy," and worked like a horse. - -Our routine was for one or other of us to select the best route through -the hummocks. This being done, one, with a gang of road-makers, -proceeded to construct the road, whilst the other, with the remainder of -the party, dragged the sledges on one by one. Great care had to be taken -that our boats, on the exceedingly rough road over which they were -dragged, did not sustain any injury. Sometimes it was a very delicate -matter, and one that required skilful handling, after the sledges had -been hauled up to the top of the hummocks, to lower them down in safety -on the opposite side. The ease and facility with which the ice yielded -to the dexterous blows of the pickaxes, wielded by strong and determined -men, was almost incredible. Apparently impenetrable masses of ice -vanished before their efforts, and left a fairly good road by which we -advanced. - -_April 14th._--Last night our sleeping-bags were frozen so hard that it -was with great difficulty we succeeded in getting into them. Even when -this was accomplished, the warmth we derived from them was -inappreciable, and we felt more as if we were confined in a wooden box -or coffin than in a woollen bag! My blanket wrappers, although I laid on -them all night, were so stiff this morning that I had the utmost -difficulty in bending them over my feet! Being Good Friday, our prayers -in the morning were of longer duration than usual. - -[Illustration: INTERIOR OF TENT.] - -Crossed an old floe having a hard incrustation on its surface--not -sufficiently strong, however, to bear the weight either of the men or -the sledges; consequently at every step we broke through, and would -then sink deeply into soft snow. This was not only very laborious but -very aggravating work. - -[Illustration: A PACKED SLEDGE.] - -On portions of the road, where these patches of level soft snow -occurred, the flat-bottomed taboggans, used in the Hudson Bay Company's -territory, would be suitable. But the greater part of the road was over -heavy broken-up hummocks and hard fragments of ice, lying at all kinds -of angles; on the whole we found the eight-men high-runner sledge which -we used, and which was originally designed by Sir Leopold McClintock, -infinitely preferable. Long experience has conclusively proved its -excellence. It was the kind of sledge with which the North West Passage -was discovered and the Parry Islands explored, and with us it once more -did most admirable service in many directions, and over the roughest -ground imaginable. - -The temperature was too low to allow us to stop for the purpose of -obtaining a meridian altitude, which we invariably get at noon. There -was an unpleasant nipping breeze from the northward; our faces, more -especially our noses, being "touched up" constantly by Jack Frost. - -The floes off Cape Joseph Henry, although actually smaller than most of -those we have crossed, were far more heavy. In all probability they are -reduced in size by great and continual pressure off the cape. The wind -freshening, and the weather becoming very thick, we halted an hour -earlier than we otherwise would have done. - -John Shirley, one of my sledge crew, complained of pains in his ankles -and knees. On examination they appeared slightly swollen, and I treated -him according to the instructions laid down for the guidance of the -sledging officers by our doctor. - -Although at the time ignorant of the fact, this was the first appearance -of that dreadful disease, scurvy, which shortly afterwards laid its -destroying hand upon us, and reduced us to such a helpless and prostrate -state. From this day we were deprived of the services of Shirley, who -gradually but surely got worse, and was never again able to render the -slightest assistance even in the most minute details of our routine. - -_April 15th._--A N.W. gale, with an exceedingly low temperature, and an -impervious snow-drift, rendered travelling quite out of the question. - -Extreme wretchedness, I might almost say abject misery, was our lot -to-day. - -We appeared to receive little benefit, in the way of warmth, from our -tent robes, and the temperature inside our tent, with our whole party -huddled close together, was 22 deg. below zero! Gladly would we have pushed -on had it been possible. A hard day's work, even amongst the most -impenetrable hummocks, would have been infinitely preferable to our -present forced detention and inactivity. Unable to stir outside the -tent, on account of the blinding snow-drift that was whirling around, -too cold to read or even to sit up in one's bag for the sake of -conversation, tent robes and bags frozen hard--a combination of these -evils renders the position of those who suffer from them an unenviable -one indeed. It is a remarkable fact that we this day experienced a lower -temperature during a gale of wind than we did during the whole winter at -the "Alert's" winter quarters. This appears to point conclusively to the -fact that there can be no large body of water either to the northward or -westward of us. - -The thermometer invariably rose during the southerly gales experienced -in the winter, and this was very naturally attributed to the wind -blowing across a large expanse of open water. - -_April 16th._--Easter Sunday. - -The gale, although it had moderated, was still blowing too fiercely to -allow us to proceed. We were therefore compelled, sorely against our -inclination, to remain encamped. We unanimously came to the conclusion -that this was by far the most wretched and miserable Easter Sunday that -we had ever spent. Forty-eight hours in a gale of wind, tied up in a bag -off the most northern known land, with a temperature 67 deg. below freezing -point, is certainly not the most pleasant manner that any one would -select for passing an Easter Sunday! - -For forty hours I did not have the slightest feeling in my feet, and -could not really declare that I was in possession of those useful -members--as for sleep, under the circumstances, that was quite out of -the question. In spite of the cold and dismal surroundings, we did not -neglect last evening the usual Saturday night's toast, on receipt of our -small allowance of grog. It most decidedly had the effect of cheering us -up considerably, and for the time assisted in making us forget the -discomfort of our position. At half-past four in the afternoon, the wind -having subsided, it was determined to make a move. We felt that anything -was preferable to the tedium and dreariness of our compulsory detention. -The tents were accordingly struck, sledges packed, and the march -renewed. Shirley, being unable to walk, was placed in his sleeping-bag, -rolled up in the tent robes, and tied securely on one of the sledges. -This seriously added to the weight to be dragged, whilst it also reduced -our motive power; however, we hoped that by thus giving him complete -rest, he would the more rapidly recover and resume his place on the -drag-ropes. - -Alas! how little did we think that the fearful and wasting disease, the -premonitory symptoms of which were now exhibited, would insidiously -steal its way amongst us, and assailing the party one by one reduce us -so disastrously as to bring us to the verge of destruction! - -We cut our way through a hedge of hummocks about one-third of a mile in -breadth, and then on to a floe apparently of great thickness; but, -unfortunately for us, not more than three hundred yards across. Between -these stupendous floes we would occasionally meet with some young ice -amongst the hummocks which, when it trended in the right direction, -would afford us easy travelling; but these leads were never of any -extent. - -The gale had accumulated the snow in deep drifts, which rendered the -task of dragging the sledges harder than ever. Our progress was -necessarily slow. We halted and encamped at half-past ten. The men -appeared to be more easily fatigued after lying so long idle in their -bags than if they had performed a hard day's work. Our camp this evening -was pitched almost abreast of Cape Joseph Henry, though some miles off -it. - -When viewed from seaward, or more correctly speaking, "iceward," this -headland presents a bold and rugged appearance, rising nearly -perpendicular from base to summit, to a height of about eight hundred -feet, whence the land recedes, gradually ascending until it culminates -in a peak about three or four hundred feet higher. It appears to be of -limestone formation, with regular stratifications dipping to the -southward at an angle of 6 deg. to 10 deg. from the horizontal. The Cape itself -terminates in a knife-like edge from summit to base, in shape very much -resembling the ram-bow of an ironclad. Conical Hill, situated -immediately to the southward of Cape Joseph Henry, when observed on the -same bearing, presents more the form of a hog's back than a cone, but -possesses the same bold, rugged aspect. It is about the same height as -the peak surmounting Cape Joseph Henry, and is of the same formation; -but, unlike its neighbour, the strata dip to the southward at an angle -of about 6 deg. or 10 deg. from the vertical, giving it altogether a rather -distorted appearance. There is a great deal of similarity in the -surrounding hills, all being more or less coniform, and of an altitude -of from one to two thousand feet. - -_April 17th._--Shirley no better this morning, and to add to our -troubles, George Porter, one of Parr's sledge crew, was also suffering -in the same manner from swollen and puffy knee joints. - -Two men _hors de combat_ out of our little force diminishes our strength -very materially, and as they have both to be carried on the sledges it -adds seriously to the weights to be dragged. The morning was bright and -sunny, with a temperature as high as 24 deg. below zero, so we congratulated -ourselves that it was now really on the turn, and that we should no -longer encounter any more extreme cold. The men take kindly to their -snow-goggles, and never attempt to take them off whilst on the -march--perhaps my expatiating largely on the excruciating agony and -acute pain inseparable from snow blindness, is in some way connected -with their submissiveness in this respect! Alfred Pearce was, yesterday, -rather severely frost-bitten on one of his fingers; but circulation was -rapidly restored, and to-day, with the exception of a little soreness, -he suffers no ill effects from it. The travelling to-day was nearly a -repetition of what we had hitherto been encountering: large masses of -ice thickly compacted together, squeezed up into every conceivable, but -indescribable, shape and form to a height of about twenty-five feet; but -these had to succumb to the strenuous exertions of Parr and his -indefatigable road-makers. - -Energy and perseverance performed wonders. The men worked uncommonly -well--my only fear was that they would overtax their strength. Poor -fellows! they get little rest during the day, for even when we halt for -lunch, they are compelled to be continually on the move to keep their -blood in circulation. To sit or lie down for any length of time would be -fatal. No wonder, then, they are fatigued at the end of the day's work. - -Some of the floes over which we travelled to-day were of greater -thickness than others, and it was no unfrequent occurrence for us to -drop a height of six or seven feet from the top of one floe to the -surface of another; or, _vice versa_, to have to haul the sledges up the -same height. This was no easy work with our heavily laden sledges and -boats. Snow commenced falling at 3 P.M., and continued all night. - -_April 18th._--The old story last night with our sleeping-bags! So hard -were they frozen that it occupied us a considerable time before we could -struggle into them. The night, however, was not so cold, and we -succeeded in sleeping pretty comfortably. Before starting this morning -we lightened our heavy sledge by making a redistribution of the weights -on all three sledges. By these means we hoped to be able to get on a -little better. - -We found the helmet worsted caps that were so kindly given to us by the -Empress very warm and comfortable for sleeping in. They are much -appreciated by the men, who call them "Eugenies," and they constantly -refer with gratitude to her Majesty's kind and thoughtful present. - -The travelling to-day was excessively heavy, in consequence of the -unevenness of the floes and the deep soft snow with which they were -covered. After lunch we arrived at and crossed some "veritable -palaeocrystic floes"--apparently of gigantic thickness, and studded with -numerous rounded snow hillocks; the height of some of the latter being -as much as thirty feet above the surface of the floe. In crossing one of -these, the "Victoria" sledge capsized, but was soon righted without -damaging either the sledge or the boat, or injuring the invalid who was -lashed on top, and who received only a slight shaking. As we proceeded -northwards we opened out the land to the westward, and a large bay which -has since been called Clements Markham Inlet. A S.E. breeze sprang up in -the evening shortly before we halted, which, strange to say, sent the -temperature down rapidly to -33 deg., and we had, in consequence, to be -cautious about frost-bites. - -_April 19th._--A fine clear day. Our bags last night were rendered a -little more habitable by having been exposed during the day to the heat -of the sun, which was sufficiently powerful to extract the greater part -of the moisture which had been absorbed by them. Our plan is on fine -days to suspend as much as we possibly can from the masts and yards of -the boats, and to spread the gear out over the sledges, so that it may -dry as we travel along. This answers admirably and enables us to pass -more comfortable nights. - -After toiling hard for three and a half hours, during which time we had -advanced the sledges barely a quarter of a mile, I came to the -determination to abandon our largest boat. It was heart-breaking to -witness the men slaving in their endeavours to drag on the heavy sledge -and boat--to see the continual standing pulls, the incessant "one, two, -three, haul," and no result. - -I did not arrive at this decision until after very mature deliberation. -My conviction was that amongst such ice as that over which we were -travelling, should a disruption occur, our boats would be of little -service to us, except as a means of ferrying from one floe to another. -For this purpose I retain the smaller boat. - -Leaving the boat in as conspicuous a position as possible, with her mast -stepped and yard triced up, and having obtained a round of angles in -order to fix her position, so as to facilitate our finding her on the -return journey, the march was resumed, every one well pleased at being -rid of the incubus, as the large boat was always regarded. We travelled -over deep and uneven snow ridges, and experienced great difficulty in -getting from one floe to another, on account of the perpendicular drop. -Before halting we got on to some young ice amongst the hummocks, along -which we rattled gaily, actually performing a distance of about half a -mile in something like two hours! This is good work for us. It must be -remembered that we have to advance _three_ sledges, and to do this we -have to walk over the same road five times! - -If our invalids would only show some symptoms of improvement we should -have more hope of reaching a higher latitude; but at present they -compensate in weight and loss of power for the abandonment of the boat. -I regard each man carried as about 200 lbs. extra weight, and the loss -of their services on the drag-ropes is about equal to another 200 lbs. -weight to be added--therefore the two invalids reckon as much as 800 -lbs., exactly equivalent to the weight of the deserted boat! So long as -they remain ill, we gain nothing upon the actual weights dragged before -their sickness commenced. Instead of their getting better, we have the -prospect of an increased sick list, for this evening Alfred Pearce was -compelled to fall out from the drag-ropes, suffering from a badly -swollen ankle, and exhibiting in fact the same symptoms as the other -men. - -_April 20th._--This morning we were unable to make a start in -consequence of the thickness of the weather. Snow was falling slightly, -but the fog was so dense that it was impossible to see the length of the -sledge ahead. As I had brought with me one of Dickens's works, "The Old -Curiosity Shop," I read aloud to the men, who were much interested in -the story. - -By 2 P.M., the weather having cleared slightly, we determined to push on -and find our way through the fog and hummocks as best we could. The snow -was very deep and the hummocks appeared to be interminable. The task of -selecting a road was by no means easy--nothing to be seen but hummocks -in every direction. At eight o'clock, the fog lifting a little, we -succeeded in extricating ourselves from our difficulties, and crossing a -large heavy floe got on to a lead of young ice which gave us good -travelling. Although this young ice enabled us to travel quicker, and -rendered the work of dragging easier, still I was sorry to see it, as I -was rather apprehensive that the pack might break up earlier than we -anticipated, and so place us in an exceedingly awkward predicament. We -halted and camped at half-past ten, having (considering the lateness of -our start) performed a fair day's work. - -_April 21st._--A keen piercing wind from the northward. Travelling much -the same. Although the temperature was only 17 deg. below zero, the cold was -more intense than we had yet felt it since leaving the ship. The wind -seemed to cut us in two, and was the cause of numerous superficial -frost-bites. One man, Thomas Simpson, was rather severely frost-bitten -in the big toe, which was, however, quickly attended to and brought -round. - -Our greatest enemies, whilst crossing a floe of any extent, were the -numberless cracks and fissures in the ice, radiating in all directions -and treacherously concealed by a covering of snow. Into these we -frequently fell, and as some of them were of great depth it seemed -almost miraculous that we escaped without a fractured limb! These cracks -must be produced either by enormous pressure or intense cold. - -_April 22nd._--The wind blew in heavy squalls last night, and continued -fresh this morning; but as we all dreaded a longer detention in our tent -we resolved to push on at all hazards. - -It was painful to witness the efforts of the poor fellows in their -endeavours to protect their faces from the cold cutting wind as they -plodded along, dragging the heavily laden sledges; but they seemed -cheerful enough, and treated the numerous frost-bites that appeared on -their cheeks as rather a good joke than anything else. The sun peeped -out for a few moments during the afternoon; but a heavy mist hung over -the land, entirely obscuring it from our view. The floes over which we -travelled to-day were more level than any we had yet crossed, and -infinitely larger; but as a set-off against this, we found the snow very -deep, which rendered the dragging excessively laborious. Few hummocks -adorned the edges of these floes. They appeared to have come into -contact with each other in a most amicable manner, and then immediately -united before any pressure could be exerted, so as to form the immense -hedges of heaped-up masses of ice that have hitherto been our great -bugbear. One floe crossed to-day was estimated at about a mile and -three-quarters in length, and about six miles in circumference. - -_April 23rd._--Progressing but slowly. The travelling was very heavy, -through deep soft snow, and we were delayed considerably by being -obliged to make roads over broad belts of heavy hummocks. - -We camped for the night on the verge of a floe, with enormous hummocks -squeezed up together immediately in front. The prospect of advancing was -not cheering! A S.E. breeze, springing up in the afternoon, sent the -temperature down suddenly to -24 deg.. Our invalids did not appear to be -improving, and we were rather puzzled at some of their symptoms. - -_April 24th._--The greater part of the day was employed in cutting a -road through a perfect sea of hummocks. They appeared to be -interminable. From the highest we could see nothing like a floe, nothing -but an uneven range of massive and shapeless blocks of ice. The -road-making was very hard and _very_ cold work, and the men had to be -relieved pretty often with the tools. - -Skill is of more avail at this sort of work than brute force. A skilled -workman will soon demolish a large hummock, on which a strong but -inexperienced man is wasting all his energy and strength in fruitless -blows. - -We had the satisfaction to-day of crossing the eighty-third parallel of -latitude,[1] and of knowing that we were the first party of men that -had ever reached such a high position. The wind to-day, although -decidedly unpleasant, was of some service, for being from the southward -we were able to make sail on our sledges and thus utilize the otherwise -unwelcome breeze. - -_April 25th._--A beautiful day, but with a low temperature. A slight -breeze from the eastward reminded us that we possessed noses. These -latter appendages have been voted decided nuisances, and could easily be -dispensed with whilst sledging! The travelling to-day was a slight -improvement on our preceding day's work. Indeed at one time we were able -to advance our two light sledges "single banked," that is with their own -individual crews, instead of employing both crews to drag on one sledge -at a time; but this was only for a very short distance. The snow was -very deep and of a tenacious consistency, clinging to the sledge runners -and thereby seriously impeding our progress. So powerful were the rays -of the sun this afternoon that my thermometer, when exposed to them, -rose rapidly from -17 deg. to -3 deg.. At 6 P.M. I observed faint parhelia -showing prismatic colours. We were delayed towards the end of the day by -a broad belt of hummocks, through which a road had to be cut. The large -hummocks passed to-day, although smooth and rounded on the top and on -one side, were precipitous on the other and were fully thirty feet high. -Some of them appeared like isolated fragments in the centre of a floe, -and resembled the large grounded floe-bergs in the vicinity of the -"Alert's" winter quarters. They were undoubtedly portions of the floe -which had been broken off and squeezed up under irresistible pressure. - -_April 26th._--Temperature to-day as high as -2 deg.. For the first time, -since we have been away, were we able thoroughly to enjoy our lunch. On -account of the increased warmth, our bacon was more palateable, and we -could throw our wearied forms on the soft snow and discuss our pint of -tea without running the risk of having our toes frost-bitten. The -sensation of possessing feet was a novel and delightful one. Several of -the men have of late been attacked by violent bleedings of the nose; but -this, in all probability, is due to the rise of temperature. No -improvement in our travelling--still the same old story--hummocks and -snow-drifts, snow-drifts and hummocks. So dense were the latter that, -when we halted for the night, it really seemed as if we had arrived at -"the end of all things;" for in front of us was an apparently impassable -sea of hummocks extending north, east, and west as far as the range of -vision. A dismal prospect, indeed! But we did not despair, and still -hoped we might cut our way through these obstacles, and emerge upon -floes along which we should have little difficulty in advancing. - -_April 27th._--A hard day's work! Road-makers incessantly employed, and -the sledges "double banked" the whole day, progress being necessarily -slow. Our invalids showed no signs of amendment, indeed two others -exhibited symptoms of the same disease; for such it appears to be. - -Another great misfortune that happened was that both our shovels came to -grief--the handles breaking off at the junction between the wood and -iron. We, however, succeeded in "fishing" and thus rendering them -serviceable. We should be in a sorry plight if any accident happened to -our pickaxes as well as to our shovels. As an instance of the amount of -walking we had to perform, I may mention that to-day I had, of -necessity, to cross the same floe, on which the snow was knee-deep, no -less than thirteen times, "and didn't I hate that blackguard floe!" - -_April 28th._--The temperature actually rose as high as +2 deg.! This is the -first day that we have registered the thermometer above zero! It is a -decided improvement. - -Last night, inside my tent, the temperature was as high as 33 deg., and, in -spite of a hard day's work, we were all busily employed, after supper -was over, in some way or another. A couple were splicing lanyards in -their drag-belts; one was tailoring; another repairing his moccasins; -one was darning his mitts, and another patching up his stockings with an -old blanket wrapper; whilst I was both reading aloud and dressing and -bandaging my patients' legs. All were smoking except myself. The effect -in a small confined tent may be imagined! - -Two of the men, who are not tobacco smokers, smoked what they called -"herb" tobacco, which diffused a rather pleasing aroma, and served to -deaden the unpleasantness of the tobacco smoke. It is composed of -various dried aromatic herbs, and is, I believe, recommended by the -faculty for many disorders. - -The travelling was as bad as ever--through heavy hummocks and deep -snow-drifts. We had the misfortune to capsize the sledge, on which was -one of the invalids; but a slight delay was the only inconvenience -caused. The weather in the afternoon became very thick, making it -extremely difficult to select a route. Everything was of one uniform -colour: above, below, behind, and before; all was alike, and it was -quite impossible to tell whether we were going up or down hill until a -fall would inform us of the fact. To our great surprise, this evening, -we came across the traces of a hare in the soft snow. They were -apparently recent, and travelling in a southerly direction. The little -creature was evidently very tired, as the footsteps appeared to be close -together. Poor Pussy! it must have wandered out on the floe and lost -itself, for we were quite seventeen miles from the nearest land. I have -no doubt, if we had followed up the track, that we should have found the -poor little animal lying dead or exhausted under some hummock, famished -for want of food. - -_April 29th._--Small floes surrounded with high hummocks and covered -with deep snow, were still encountered, with occasionally a short lead -on some young ice that we sometimes met twining round the larger floes. -It was difficult to account for the presence of so much young ice, and I -can only suggest that, after the disruption in the summer, the pack -remained some length of time in a quiescent state, and so allowed the -young ice to form between the floes; for if once in motion, no ice of a -single season's formation could withstand the tremendous pressure that -would be exerted by these stupendous floes, but must inevitably be -pulverized and broken up into small fragments. Our wretched cook last -night made our tea and cooked our pemmican with the water obtained from -salt-water ice. We all in consequence suffered from intense thirst, -without being able to obtain anything to alleviate it. - -_April 30th._--After halting last night the wind freshened into a gale, -the clouds thickened, and snow began to fall heavily, and this -continued all day without intermission, so much so that we were unable -to make a start. It was impossible to see the length of the sledge -ahead, and, surrounded as we were by hummocks, it would have been folly -to have attempted a move. We consoled ourselves by saying that the rest -would do us good, and that the invalids more especially would benefit by -it. - - -FOOTNOTE: - - [1] By the Act of Parliament (58 Geo. III. cap. xx.) passed in 1818, - a reward of L1000 was assigned to any one who should cross the - latitude of 83 deg. N. But in 1828 this Act for the encouragement of - Polar discovery was repealed by 9 Geo. IV. cap. lxvi. - - - - -CHAPTER XXIII. - -THE MOST NORTHERN POINT EVER REACHED BY MAN. - - - "And here on snows, where never human foot - Of common mortal trod, we nightly tread - And leave no traces, o'er the savage sea, - The glassy ocean of the mountain ice; - We skim its rugged breakers, which put on - The aspect of a tumbling tempest's foam - Frozen in a moment." - - BYRON. - -_May 1st._--A fine sunny morning ushered in the month of May, all the -more appreciated in consequence of the enforced idleness of the -preceding day. The bright sun had a wonderful effect upon us all. It -seemed to cheer and invigorate our spirits, whilst it stimulated us to -renewed exertions in our endeavours to reach as high a northern latitude -as possible. Our invalids, however, were very faint and weak. They -exhibited no favourable symptoms of improvement, and were a great clog -and drawback to our progress. With our diminished crews we found it hard -work to drag the sledges over the rough hummocky road, and through the -deep soft snow-drifts that were constantly met. Road-making became a -necessary part of the daily routine. Floes of any extent were rarely -seen, and we had to thread our way through a perfect labyrinth of -piled-up masses of ice, with little or no prospect of its improving. It -was a dreary and wild-looking scene: no living thing in sight but our -own little party, no colour or object to relieve the eye; nothing but a -chaotic and illimitable sea of ice. Sometimes a fog was observed -gradually rolling itself towards us, like a large mantle, until we were -completely enveloped in its dense folds; when, continuing its onward -course, it would roll as rapidly away, leaving a bright luminous band -stretching across the horizon in the direction whence it had come. - -_May 2nd._--Although we had been told that there was not the slightest -chance of our being attacked with scurvy, still, from the utter -prostration of our invalids, combined with other symptoms, we were -almost inclined to believe that we were really afflicted with this dire -and wasting disease. It was a terrible idea that forced itself upon us, -and one that we were loath to indulge in; but we feared that the -symptoms pointed unmistakeably to the fact that this fearful disease, so -dreaded by the mariners of old, was gradually but surely laying its hand -upon us, completely prostrating those it attacked and rendering them -helpless from pain and exhaustion. Parr and myself spoke of it only when -we were by ourselves, as we considered it of the utmost importance that -the men should remain in ignorance as long as possible, and not even -suspect the nature of the disease which had crippled so many of their -number. Swollen joints and discolouration of the skin, attended with -faintness and great weakness, were the principal symptoms. Great as were -the natural difficulties which surrounded us, still, should our surmise -be correct, we could not but regard this as the most formidable of all -obstacles to our advance that could possibly be imagined. Our only hope -was that the five men now afflicted might, through their habits or -disposition, have been more prone to the attacks of this insidious -disease, than the remainder of our party, who, we hoped, might escape -scathless. We camped this evening amidst a pile of hummocks, after one -of the hardest day's work we have yet performed. So rough was the road -and so deep was the snow that the sledges could only be advanced by -"standing pulls." This was disheartening, for we had all been cherishing -the hope that as we advanced northwards we should find larger and more -level floes and less snow; the reverse, however, was the case. Several -times did one or other of us disappear through deep rents in the floe, -but we always succeeded in scrambling up again unhurt. - -_May 3rd._--A dull, dark, foggy day rendered it extremely difficult to -select our road, and we were occasionally compelled to unload the -sledges before they could be dragged through the deep soft snow-drifts -which were continually met across our route, making the work all the -more hard and distressing. The fog persistently hung over us all day; -but was not sufficiently dense to retard our progress altogether, though -it materially increased our labours and augmented our difficulties. - -_May 4th._--Everything appeared to combine against us: weather, snow -ice, and sickness! In spite of these evils our tents were struck and a -start made; but after advancing for half a mile, which took us exactly -three and a half hours to accomplish, we arrived at such a confused heap -of hummocks that, with the dense fog prevailing and the falling snow, -it was impossible to make any headway. To persevere would have been -imprudent. The tents were accordingly pitched, and we consoled ourselves -by saying that the rest would be productive of much good to our sick -companions, for even those that had to be carried on the sledges could -get no rest whilst being dragged and jolted and sometimes capsized over -the roughest road imaginable. After lunch, the weather clearing a -little, we employed ourselves in cutting a road through an amorphous -conglomeration of ice for quite three-quarters of a mile. The pack over -which we were travelling appeared to consist of numerous small floes, -the largest being barely one hundred yards across at its widest -diameter, but the majority much smaller, and each of these floes was -surrounded by a mass of hummocks piled up and lying one on top of the -other to the height of twenty and thirty feet: the belts of hummocks -being from thirty to forty yards in breadth. - -Observing one large hummock to be very much discoloured, we found, on -approach, that this discolouration was caused by the adhesion of mud or -clay, a line of which extended for some distance along the edge of the -floe, and gave one the idea that it had rubbed against, or in some -manner had come into contact with, the shore. Mud it undoubtedly was, -and we bottled a quantity of it for the purpose of subjecting it to -microscopic investigation when we should return on board. This was -conclusive evidence that a periodical, if not an annual, disruption of -the pack occurs, and that these floes, although now at such a distance -from the land, had at some time or another been in very close -proximity. Moreover, this must have occurred at a recent date, -otherwise the summer thaws and the autumn snow would have obliterated -all such traces as those we had discovered. - -_May 5th._--The weather was still as thick as pea-soup! However, we were -able to avail ourselves of the road that we had constructed yesterday, -and moved our camp so far. To do this, although the road was fairly good -and the distance only three-quarters of a mile, the time occupied was -four and a half hours! The scene that surrounded our encampment was a -dreary one indeed--a desolate, cold, and inhospitable scene: everything -of the same uniform colour; no object to relieve the eye; no signs of -life; nothing to break the stillness and solitude of this waste of snow -and ice. Surely Shelley must have contemplated such a scene when he -wrote the following lines: - - "Those wastes of frozen billows that were hurled - By everlasting snow-storms round the Poles, - Where matters dared not vegetate nor live, - But ceaseless frost round the vast solitude - Bound the broad zone of stillness." - -It was a relief, indeed, to turn from such a scene, and rest the eye -upon our little encampment, while listening to the cheerful voices of -our men, as, oblivious to hardship and suffering, they sat "yarning," in -their tents, and relating to each other their adventures in other parts -of the globe. To our great satisfaction and comfort the temperature was -at, or about, zero all day, and for the first time, since leaving the -ship, we were able to eat our bacon without in the first place thawing -it in our tea! - -_May 6th._--A fine, bright day; but the rest of yesterday had produced -no beneficial results. Our invalids were gradually getting worse; even -those who were apparently in good health complained of aching limbs, and -exhibited some of the first symptoms of those who were already ailing. -Four of the men had also been suffering for the last few days from snow -blindness, though not in a severe form. A suger of lead lotion afforded -them great relief, and acted as a cure. We had been so far extremely -fortunate in our comparative exemption from this painful and irritating -affliction. We must attribute our immunity from it to the constant use -of our snow-goggles, which were never taken off until the time of -"bagging!" - -In getting under weigh in the morning, and also when we are encamping, -the sick men cause us no little delay; for they are perfectly helpless, -and require assistance in every little detail connected with their -dressing and undressing, being totally incapacitated from doing anything -themselves. - -The travelling was very heavy. We appeared to have arrived at a perfect -barrier of hummocks, with portions of large floes intermixed, all broken -and squeezed up together and covered with deep snow. As far as reaching -a high latitude was concerned, we might as well have turned back at -once, for our advance must needs be slow; but it was not impossible that -this sea of hummocks, with which we were contending, might be the limit -of our rough road, and that if we could succeed in struggling through -them for a few miles, we might emerge upon large and level floes on -which we should be able to travel with greater ease and celerity. -Possibly the rugged nature of the ice might be due to the junction of -two tides, which, from the commotion produced, would create the -obstacles that were impeding our progress. After halting for the night, -a party of men were employed road-making whilst the tents were being -pitched and supper preparing. All were very glad to get into their bags -and rest after the fatigues of the day. A slight air from the S.E. sent -the temperature down rapidly to 11 deg. below zero. The minus quantities -still prevailed. - -_May 7th._--We started this morning carrying three of our invalids; but -before we had gone many yards it became painfully evident that the two -others were quite unable to walk, although the gallant fellows struggled -along manfully. - -Our only resource was to advance the sledges and then return with them -empty to bring on the other disabled sufferers. We had now a third of -our little band _hors de combat_, our strength was diminishing daily, -and our weights on the sledges in consequence were increasing. The -travelling appeared to be getting, if possible, worse; the hummocks were -higher and the snow-drifts deeper. One of the former, on being measured -by means of a lead line, was found to be, from the top of the floe to -its summit, forty-three feet three inches. - -We halted earlier than usual, and, having constructed a pedestal for the -magnetic instrument out of solid snow, obtained a series of observations -for the inclination of the needle and for the total magnetic force. - -_May 8th._--We at length forced ourselves to believe that the disease -from which our men were suffering was really scurvy. We issued to those -who were afflicted daily allowances of lime-juice from the small stock -that we brought away with us. - -But it was with the utmost difficulty that a small allowance for each -could be thawed. The lime-juice was in two bottles. On putting one near -the cooking apparatus to thaw, the bottle cracked and fell to pieces. At -last I adopted the plan of placing the other bottle between my legs when -in the sleeping-bag, and, after a long time, I succeeded in thawing a -small quantity. But it is now known that this was of no use; for the -state of the lime-juice used by Dr. Coppinger at Polaris Bay showed that -the whole volume must be thawed and remixed before it can be used with -any advantage. This can only be done in the warmer weather of June or -July. - -The loss of appetite, depression of spirits, with other symptoms were, -we thought, decidedly scorbutic, and we feared, without fresh meat and -vegetables, that there was little chance of seeing the sick men on the -drag-ropes again during the journey. Being a fine, bright day, the -invalids were made to come out and bask in the sun, whilst the rest of -the party, with pickaxes and shovels, were engaged in cutting a road -through the hummocks. A double series of magnetic observations were -obtained, together with sights for latitude, longitude, and variation of -the compass. The hummocks amongst which our tents were pitched were of -various heights and bulk, from small fragments of ice to huge piles over -forty feet high. Some of them consisted of a number of small hummocks -squeezed up into one large mass, whilst others were apparently the -regular floe-bergs, and, although perhaps of greater bulk, were not -quite so high. - -Between these hummocks, and consequently along the only road where we -could drag our sledges, the snow had accumulated in drifts to a great -depth, and this, formed into ridges by the wind, rendered the travelling -all the more difficult. Occasionally the tops of these ridges were -frozen hard, and it was of no uncommon occurrence to step from deep -snow, through which we were floundering up to our waists, on to a hard, -frozen piece, or _vice versa_. - -Sometimes these ridges were only partially frozen, or covered with a -slight crust, just hard enough _not_ to bear our weights, and this made -it exceedingly disagreeable and laborious to travel over. - -_May 9th._--Another beautifully warm day, with the temperature only a -degree or two below zero! It was impossible to remain idle on such a -day, so we resolved to push on. - -Lightening two of the sledges of about half their loads, two of the sick -men were placed on them, and these were dragged to the limit of the road -made yesterday. Here the tent was pitched, the two invalids placed -inside, the sledge unpacked and dragged back. In this manner we -succeeded in advancing during the day a distance of about three-quarters -of a mile; but so tortuous was our road, and so often had it to be -traversed, that to accomplish this short distance we had to walk about -seven miles, and this through very deep snow. Rawlings, Simpson, and -Ferbrache were complaining of aching limbs, and their legs exhibited -slight discolouration. - -_May 10th._--We advanced the sledges in the same manner as yesterday, -accomplishing about the same distance; but so distressing was it to see -the exertions of the men in their endeavours to perform a good day's -work, and so painful was it to witness the sufferings of the sick, that -I very reluctantly came to the conclusion that our camp this evening -must be our most northern one. With five of my little force disabled, -and as many more showing decided scorbutic symptoms, it would have been -imprudent to persevere farther, however much inclination might prompt -such a proceeding. Besides, our provisions must be taken into -consideration, and we had only thirty days left to take us back a -distance that occupied us forty days to advance, so that our turning -back became an imperative necessity. We might, I think, console -ourselves with the knowledge that the motto engraved on my flagstaff, -and which had been presented to me by my friend and former Captain, now -Commodore A. H. Hoskins, had been fully carried out. It was happily -chosen, and although the lines are expressed in the first personal -pronoun they had reference to the whole party: - - "I dare do all that may become a man: - Who dares do more is none." - -We felt that the absence of any greater success could not be attributed -either to a lack of energy or of perseverence. It was, however, a bitter -ending to all our aspirations, for which even the knowledge of being -homeward bound failed to compensate. In justice to my brave companions I -must say that no men could have done more under the same circumstances. - -_May 11th._--Having arrived at the determination of dragging the sledges -no farther in a northerly direction, I deemed it desirable to try what -good two days' perfect rest would do for our invalids; and, as there -were many useful observations to be taken in this high latitude, I -determined to devote the two following days to obtaining them. As soon -as breakfast was discussed, a snow pedestal was erected for the -instrument for determining the magnetic force and inclination of the -needle, a double series of observations being obtained. Sights were -taken in order to fix our position both by latitude and longitude, and -also for the variation of the compass.[1] - -Some of the men were employed in cutting a hole through young ice that -existed between the hummocks in order that we might obtain deep sea -temperatures with a Casella's thermometer, which we had brought with us -for the purpose. - -In three hours this work was accomplished, the ice being only sixty-four -inches in thickness. On attempting to get soundings, to our great -surprise we succeeded in finding bottom in seventy-one fathoms (four -hundred and twenty-six feet). - -At this depth we managed to obtain, by various contrivances that were -lowered down, a specimen of the bottom, which was carefully bottled, in -order to be carried to the ship, there to undergo microscopic -examination. - -[Illustration: HIGHEST NORTHERN CAMP.] - -Wishing to possess any specimens of animal life that might exist in this -high latitude, a bread bag, filled with the scrapings of our pannikins -and a little pemmican, was lowered to the bottom, and, having been kept -there some hours, was hauled up, and to our great joy found to be almost -alive with numerous small crustaceans[2] and foraminifera; specimens -of which were, of course, collected and preserved, being the most -northern animal life yet discovered. With our thermometer a series of -temperatures was taken at every ten fathoms, whilst the specific gravity -of the surface water was also obtained. - -Tidal action was apparent; but, with the means at our disposal, we were -unable to observe the rise and fall of the tide, or to make any accurate -measurement regarding it. Altogether the day was not unprofitably spent. - -_May 12th._--This 12th of May must always be regarded as an eventful day -in the lives of our little party, for it was that on which we had the -honour, and no small gratification, of planting the Union Jack on the -most northern limit of the globe ever attained by civilized man, or, in -fact, so far as our knowledge goes, by mortal man! In order to insure -being within four hundred miles of the North Pole, we started -immediately after breakfast to the northward, carrying with us the -sextant, artificial horizon, and all our colours and banners. We were a -party of ten,[3] two men being left behind to attend to the wants of the -five who were sick, and who were left comfortably settled inside the -tents. - -The walking was undoubtedly severe, at one moment struggling through -deep snow-drifts, in which we floundered up to our waists, and at -another tumbling about amongst the hummocks. - -Some idea may be formed of the difficulties of the road, when, after -more than two hours' hard walking, with little or nothing to carry, we -had barely accomplished one mile! - -Shortly before noon a halt was called, the artificial horizon set up, -and the flags and sledge standards displayed. Fortunately the sun was -favourable to us, and we were able to obtain a good altitude as it -passed the meridian, although almost immediately afterwards dark clouds -rolled up, snow began to fall, and the sun was lost in obscurity. - -We found the latitude to be 83 deg. 20' 26'' N., or three hundred and -ninety-nine miles and a half from the North Pole. The announcement of -our position was received with three cheers, with one more for Captain -Nares; then all sang the "Union Jack of Old England," our "Grand -Palaeocrystic Sledging Chorus," winding up, like loyal subjects, with -"God save the Queen." - -No words of mine could describe the scene that surrounded us better than -those of Coleridge in his "Ancient Mariner": - - "The ice was here, the ice was there, - The ice was all around." - -For nought else but snow and ice could be seen in any direction. - -In spite, however, of these dreary surroundings, suggesting everything -that was desolate and miserable, mirth, happiness, and joy seemed to -reign paramount amongst our little party. Perhaps there was something -in the idea of having been farther north than any other man had hitherto -penetrated, that promoted such feelings! Whatever produced them, they -were shared in by all. Even the sick, on our return to camp, prostrate -and suffering as they were, participated in the general hilarity and -rejoicing. They knew their toilsome journey had terminated, and that -each day would bring them nearer to their ship and to those supplies -that were necessary to save their lives. - -On returning to the tents, a magnum of whiskey, kindly sent by the "Dean -of Dundee," for the express purpose of being drunk at our highest -northern position, was broached, and for supper we had divided amongst -the two sledge crews a hare that had been shot by Dr. Moss on the third -day after leaving the ship. Could men in our position want more? Never -were the bones of a hare picked so clean! No dog would have benefited -much from the scraps remaining from our repast! - -Absent friends were duly toasted, and the evening was brought to a close -with songs, in which even the invalids joined. All appeared happy, -cheerful, and contented. - - -FOOTNOTES: - - [1] The original from which the annexed illustration is a copy, was - painted by Admiral R. B. Beechey, and exhibited in the Royal Academy - in 1877. It is now in the possession of Mr. Clements Markham. - - [2] _Anonyx nugax_, a fine adult male example, and several smaller - ones. The length of the largest specimen is 11/2 inch. This species is - one of the commonest and most abundantly distributed of the northern - _Amphipoda_. It was discovered by Captain Phipps in 1773, and is - found along the shores of Arctic America, in the White Sea, on the - coasts of Greenland, Iceland, Spitzbergen, Norway, and in the Sea of - Okhotsk. - - [3] The names of these men are--Commander A. H. Markham, Lieutenant - A. A. C. Parr, Thos. Rawlings, Ed. Lawrence, John Radmore, Thos. - Jolliffe, Daniel Harley, Wm. Ferbrache, Wm. Maskell, and John - Pearson. - - - - -CHAPTER XXIV. - -RETURN OF THE NORTHERN DIVISION. - - - "Is not short payne well borne, that brings long ease, - And layes the soule to sleepe in quiet grace? - Sleepe after toyle, port after stormie seas, - Ease after warre, death after life, does greatly please." - - _Faerie Queene._ - -At three o'clock on the afternoon of the 13th of May the homeward march -was commenced, our main object, of course, being to get back to the ship -as speedily as possible. - -Before starting, a couple of records, inclosed in two tin cases, were -deposited on the floe. One was placed as near the centre of the floe as -possible, the other was secured on the top of a hummock. - -On the records was stated the latitude and longitude of the position, -together with a few words regarding the condition of the party. If these -are ever picked up it will be very interesting and important, as -throwing light on the drift or tide in these high latitudes. - -It is unnecessary to describe the incidents that occurred on each -successive day during the return journey. Day by day did our strength -diminish. Gradually, but surely, the men, one after the other, began to -feel the cruel grasp of the disease, as they struggled manfully on, -dragging their poor, helpless companions, in spite of racking pains and -aching limbs. Although themselves attacked by the dreadful malady, the -men who were still able to work suppressed their own sufferings in their -endeavours to ameliorate those of their more helpless and ailing -comrades. Unmindful of their own miserable plight, they devoted -themselves to the tender and soothing functions of nurses with a -thoughtful and careful tenderness that would have done credit even to -those of the weaker sex. - -Often had the same road to be traversed, as the sledges were advanced -one at a time, and most fortunate was it that we were able to adhere to -the road constructed during our outward journey. To do so, however, -during the thick weather which constantly prevailed, was a task of great -difficulty and very trying to the eyes; but we knew that if by ill-luck -we should wander away and lose it, our chances of ever seeing the ship -again would be poor indeed! The hours selected for travelling were -between 6 P.M. and 6 A.M. By choosing this part of the day, or rather -night, for working, we kept the sun as much as possible at our backs, -and slept during the warmth of the day. Towards the end of May, although -the temperature of the outside air was below the freezing point, the sun -was so powerful that it would raise the temperature inside our tent, -whilst we were sleeping, to as much as 70 deg. or 80 deg., which would be quite -unbearable! Frost-bites had become a thing of the past, and were no -longer dreaded. The temperature did not rise above the freezing point -until the month of June. - -Snow fell heavily during the greater part of the return journey, and -fogs were very prevalent. Gales of wind had to be endured, for to halt -was out of the question--rest there was none--onward was the order of -the day. - -As the disease gradually assumed the mastery over the party, so did the -appetites decrease, and in a very alarming manner, until it was with the -greatest difficulty that anybody could be induced to eat at all. Instead -of each man disposing of one pound of pemmican a day, the same quantity -sufficed for the entire party in one tent; and even this, occasionally, -was not consumed. Nor was the subject of eating and drinking so often -discussed. During the outward journey, beefsteaks and onions, mutton -chops and new potatoes, and Bass's beer formed the chief topics of -conversation. On the return journey they were scarcely alluded to. -Hunger was never felt; but we were all assailed by an intolerable -thirst, which could only be appeased at meal times, or after the -temperature was sufficiently high to admit of quenching our thirst by -putting icicles into our mouths. - -Aching bones and sleepless nights were the chief causes of our -sufferings. - -With all these hardships it was a great comfort to be able to put on dry -foot gear. If it was fine when we encamped, our blanket wrappers and -hose were spread out on the tent in the sun, so that when we got up they -were not only dry, but _not frozen_, and were, therefore, limp and -supple! - -On the 17th of May we again, strange to say, crossed the track of a -hare, being at the time about twenty-five miles from the nearest land. -Like the track before seen, the footsteps were close together, -indicating that the poor little creature was in a very exhausted state. -Although the traces were very indistinct, they appeared to be going in a -northerly direction. - -Though our travelling was slow, we could see a perceptible decrease in -the distance between ourselves and the land, whenever the weather was -fine enough for us to observe it. "Old Joe," as the men irreverently -termed Cape Joseph Henry, loomed nearer and darker, and we all regarded -it with anxious, longing eyes. - -On the 18th of May the first icicles were observed hanging from the -edges of a few hummocks--a sure sign of the returning power of the sun. - -Ominous symptoms of a disruption of the pack were seen on the same day, -and again on the following one. A crack in some ice had opened -considerably since we last passed over it, whilst small hummocks had -been formed by the pressure of two floes, one against the other. These -little indications made matters assume a still more serious aspect. They -may have been due to tidal action, but they were undoubtedly warnings to -get off the pack as speedily as possible. - -On the 20th the snow crystals that fell actually melted on coming into -contact with our clothes or any dark substance. These crystals were all -of a beautiful stellar shape. A hummock passed, although composed, -apparently, of one piece of ice, was of two different colours, a deep -blue and a pale yellow. Portions of each were broken off for the purpose -of testing their respective specific gravities, and also to carry back -to the ship for analysis. In all probability the discolouration was -caused by the presence of diatomaceae. The hummocks, at about this date, -began to assume a different appearance, the mild weather depriving them -of their snowy covering, and causing them to lose much of their former -resemblance to gigantic wedding cakes! - -The men began to have an inkling of the nature of the disease from which -they were suffering, although we studiously avoided all mention of it. -It went with them by the name of the "Joseph Henry mange!" Their spirits -were wonderful, and they joked each other as they hobbled along. Their -lameness they called the "Marco Polo limp," and declared on their return -to England they would introduce it as the fashionable gait! - -Nothing appeared to subdue their courage or their zeal. Orders were -always executed with the utmost willingness and good humour, and with as -much alacrity as they were capable of evincing. - -The men having heard that tea-leaves had been recommended as a good -_vegetable_, the contents of the tea-kettle, after lunch and supper, -were carefully collected, and devoured with avidity; but there is little -faith, I fear, to be placed in their efficacy for warding off or -subduing our terrible complaint. - -Instead of our sledge loads appearing to diminish in weight as the -provisions were consumed, they seemed to drag heavier, and we were at a -loss whether to attribute this to the depth and softness of the snow -over which we travelled, or to the increasing weakness of our party! It -was hard work, and as much as we could do to make any progress at all. -The men experienced great difficulty in moving their legs, the slightest -exertion caused intense pain, and it was a piteous sight to witness -them struggling bravely on, without uttering a murmur or complaint. -They all knew that their only hope of safety was to get back to the ship -as speedily as possible. - -The 24th of May being the Queen's birthday, all the flags and banners -were displayed during the short time we halted for lunch, and her -Majesty's health was drunk by her most northern and not least loyal -subjects. On that day, amongst the entire party, we could only muster -four and a half good and sound pairs of legs! Still even those with -"game legs" stuck to the drag-ropes nobly, and if they were unable to -render much assistance, still the drag-ropes acted as a support, and -therefore enabled them to keep up. - -On the 25th the eighty-third parallel of latitude was recrossed. - -The comparatively high temperature caused the snow over which we -journeyed to assume a "sludgy" consistency, which clung tenaciously to -our legs and to the sledge runners, rendering the work of dragging and -walking all the more laborious. - -On the 27th the condition of the party was so critical that it became -only too painfully evident that, to insure their reaching the land -alive, the sledges must be considerably lightened in order to admit of a -more rapid advance. The state of the party was on that day as follows: -five men were in a very precarious condition, utterly unable to move, -and consequently had to be carried on the sledges; five others nearly as -bad, but who nobly persisted in hobbling after the sledges, which they -could just manage to accomplish, for, as the sledges had to be advanced -one by one, it gave them plenty of time to perform the distance; whilst -three others exhibited all the premonitory scorbutic symptoms. Thus only -the two officers and two men[1] could be considered as effective! This -was, it must be acknowledged, a very deplorable state of affairs. - -I therefore decided to abandon the remaining boat, which would -materially lessen the load to be dragged. This decision was only arrived -at after long and anxious consideration. I had to decide which was the -lesser of two evils. - -For I well knew that should a disruption of the pack occur, and we had -already observed ominous signs of such an event, without a boat the -party would indeed be placed in a hopeless position; but again I knew -that in retaining the boat, the weights to be dragged by our weakened -crew would be so excessive as to preclude the possibility of reaching -the shore before all the provisions would be expended, and starvation -would be the result. Again it was of the utmost importance that haste -should be made in order to reach the ship, and place the sick under -proper medical treatment. The disease was extending so rapidly as to -produce a marked change for the worse every day. The boat, therefore, -and all superfluous weights were abandoned, and the march was again -wearily resumed. - -Many a silent prayer was offered up to God to protect and watch over us, -for we felt, indeed, that we were in dire distress, and that without His -aid and assistance we must perish; and we prayed for strength to enable -us to drag our poor helpless and suffering companions to a place of -safety. A record was left in the deserted boat, containing a brief -account of our state and condition, with the latitude and longitude -where it was abandoned. - -[Illustration: SNOW BUNTING] - -On the following day great excitement was caused by the appearance of a -snow bunting, which was seen fluttering about amongst the hummocks, -uttering its sweet and pleasant chirp, which to us was the most pleasing -music we had heard for many a long day. No wonder the sudden appearance -amongst us of this little warbler was so interesting, for it was the -first bird we had seen for nine long months. Even the invalids, as they -lay on the sledges, requested that they might have their faces -uncovered, so as both to see and hear the little friend that had flown -off to us, as if it were a messenger to welcome our party back to life -and friends. Long and anxiously was it watched as it winged its course -towards the land, whither we also were slowly wending our way. - -On the 29th the colours were again displayed at lunch time, in -commemoration of the first anniversary of our sailing from England, and -allusions were made to that ever-memorable day, comparisons being drawn -between our condition then and now! On that evening our tents were -pitched close to the boat that we had abandoned on our outward journey, -and which we found exactly in the same state as when we left it, with -its mast stepped and yard hoisted, standing out like a grim sentinel -guarding those icy wastes. - -On the 31st, whilst crossing some young ice between two heavy floes, one -of the sledges broke through, and we had no little trouble in saving it -from complete immersion, and the invalid who was on it from being -drowned! These warnings were unmistakeable, and pointed to the necessity -of reaching the land as quickly as possible. The falling snow and drift -thawed upon our clothes, making us wet and extremely wretched and -uncomfortable. - -On the 1st of June the temperature was some two or three degrees above -freezing point. This had the effect of thawing the surface snow and -converting it into a thick sludge. Our foot gear in consequence was in a -soaking wet state. Our working force on this day was reduced to six, and -all suffering more or less. - -On the 2nd the thick weather, which had so persistently clung to us, -proved triumphant and robbed us of our road. Up to this date we had been -able to avail ourselves of the road constructed with so much trouble and -labour on our outward journey. On this day we wandered off it, and in -spite of our efforts were unable to pick up the trail again. The severe -and monotonous labour of road-making had again to be resorted to. On the -5th, to our very great joy, we succeeded once more in pitching our camp -on _terra firma_, after an absence from it of two months. On first -landing our hopes were excited on observing the recent traces of a -sledge and human footprints, and we congratulated ourselves upon soon -obtaining that relief we all so much required; but we were doomed to -disappointment, for on reaching the depot of provisions established near -Cape Joseph Henry for our use, and which was found intact, we learnt -that a sledge party with Captain Nares had left for the ship only two -days previously! This was a bitter blow, for we knew that something more -than provisions was needed for the safety of the party. - -We learnt also that scurvy had made its appearance on board the "Alert," -and that poor Petersen died from the effects of his last sledge journey, -on the 14th of May. - -Three hares had been kindly and thoughtfully left for us in a crevice -amongst the hummocks by Captain Nares, and this furnished us with meals -for a couple of days; it is needless to add, they were done ample -justice to, not only for the sake of their goodness and the change they -afforded, but also because we thought the fresh meat would act as a -specific against the scurvy. - -The tracks of a wolf were observed near the depot, and the animal was -frequently heard howling in a mournful manner, but we never saw it. - -Obtaining a few supplies from the depot, our march was again resumed; -but so rapid had been the encroachments of the disease, that it was -only too palpable that immediate succour was absolutely necessary for -our salvation. At the rate of progress we were making, it would take us -fully three weeks to reach the ship, although only forty miles distant; -and who would there be left in three weeks' time? The few who were still -strong enough to drag the sledges would barely last as many days! -Assistance had, therefore, to be obtained. To procure it, one amongst us -was ready and willing to set out on this lonely and solitary mission, -with the firm reliance of being able to accomplish what he had -undertaken, and with the knowledge that he possessed the full confidence -of those for whose relief he was about to start on a long and hazardous -walk. On the 7th of June Lieut. Parr started on his arduous march to the -ship. Deep and heartfelt were the God-speeds uttered as he took his -departure, and anxiously was his retreating form watched until it was -gradually lost to sight amidst the interminable hummocks. - - "All waste! no sign of life - But the track of the wolf and the bear! - No sound but the wild, wild wind, - And the snow crunching under his feet." - -Although the loss of one strong man, like Parr, from the party was -seriously felt, still the knowledge that active steps had been taken to -procure aid was sufficient to compensate for this reduction in our -strength, and the men gallantly persevered at the drag-ropes, buoyed up -by renewed hopes. - -On the day previous to that on which Parr left, an Eskimo dog, to our -great surprise, was seen threading its way to us through the hummocks. -It was soon recognized to be one of our dogs, named Flo; but she was so -timid that at first nothing would induce her to approach. After a little -time, however, we coaxed her to us, and on having some pemmican thrown -to her she ate it ravenously. Poor thing! she was wretchedly thin and -emaciated; she, we concluded, had been cast adrift, or made her escape -from the last dog-sledge that visited this neighbourhood. She joined our -tail of cripples, hobbling, like them, after us and carefully walking in -the track of our sledges. - -On the 8th of June sadness and despondency prevailed amongst our little -band. One of our number had received that summons to which all must at -some time attend, and had been called to his long account. - - "His soul to Him who gave it rose. - God led it to its long repose-- - Its glorious rest." - -This was a terrible and unexpected blow to many who regarded themselves -as being in a still more critical and precarious condition than was poor -Porter. His end was calm and peaceful, and he retained his senses to -within five minutes of the time of dissolution. - -Sad and mournful, indeed, was the small procession that wended its way -slowly to the new-made grave, dug out of a frozen soil, carrying the -lifeless remains of their comrade, covered with the Union Jack, on the -same sledge on which he had been dragged, whilst alive, for many weeks; -and there, with the tears trickling down their weather-beaten and -smoke-begrimed faces, with their hearts so full as to choke all -utterance, they laid their late fellow-sufferer in his last -resting-place. - -A rude cross, improvised out of the rough materials that our own -equipment supplied, with a brief inscription, marks the lone and dreary -spot in that far-off icy desert where rests our comrade in his long -sleep that knows no waking, and where probably human foot will never -again tread. - - "O World! so few the years we live, - Would that the life that thou dost give - Were life indeed! - Alas! thy sorrows fall so fast, - Our happiest hour is when at last - The soul is freed." - -Gladly, after the ceremony was concluded, was the order to renew the -march received, every one being desirous of quitting a place so fraught -with sad and melancholy associations; the day, as if in unison with the -state of our own thoughts and feelings, was dull and gloomy. - -The late mournful event produced a despondency in our little band to -which we had hitherto been strangers. - -One and all felt and knew that assistance, to be of any avail, must -arrive speedily, and many a wistful glance was directed towards the -south, in the faint hope of seeing that succour without which they would -surely perish. They felt more their own weakness and helplessness, and -dreaded a recurrence of what had recently taken place. The journey was -silently and wearily resumed. - -As many of the men were unable to eat their pemmican, on account of the -soreness of their gums, and from a certain dislike that they had lately -taken to it, a new "dish" was tried, consisting of preserved potatoes -mixed with bacon fat, and although in flavour, if any was perceptible, -it rather resembled what starch might be like, it was decidedly -acceptable as a change, and each person consumed about two-thirds of a -pannikin. - -On the morning of the 9th a rainbow was seen, which, being an unusual -sight, afforded much interest. On the same day, shortly after the march -had been commenced, a moving object was suddenly seen amidst the -hummocks to the southward. At first it was regarded as an optical -illusion, for we could scarcely realize the fact that it could be -anybody from the "Alert!" With what intense anxiety this object was -regarded is beyond description. - -Gradually emerging from the hummocks, a hearty cheer put an end to the -suspense that was almost agonizing, as a dog-sledge with three men was -seen to be approaching. A cheer in return was attempted, but so full -were our hearts that it resembled more a wail than a cheer. - -It is impossible to describe our feelings as May and Moss came up, and -we received from them a warm and hearty welcome. We felt that we were -saved, and a feeling of thankfulness and gratitude was uppermost in our -minds, as we shook the hands of those who had hurried out to our relief -the moment that Parr had conveyed to them intelligence of our distress. -Those who a few short moments before were in the lowest depths of -despondency, appeared now in the most exuberant spirits. Pain was -disregarded and hardships were forgotten as numerous and varied -questions were asked and answered. - -We heard with delight that they were only the vanguard of a larger -party, headed by Captain Nares himself, that was coming out to our -relief, and which we should probably meet on the following day. A halt -was immediately ordered, cooking utensils lighted up, ice made into -water, and we were soon all enjoying a good pannikin full of lime-juice, -with the prospect of mutton for supper! - -After halting for the night Moss made a thorough medical inspection of -the whole party. His report was by no means cheering: all were more or -less affected, and some were in a very precarious condition. The -presence, however, of a medical officer amongst us restored confidence, -and acted as a powerful antiscorbutic! - -On the following day we met the larger party coming out to our -assistance, and with their help arrived alongside the "Alert" on the -14th of June, seventy-two days after our departure from the ship. - -What a contrast did that departure afford to our return! - -Then, on that bright but cold April morning, all were in the highest -spirits, cheerful and enthusiastic, looking forward with confidence to a -comparatively successful issue to their undertaking--a fine, strong, and -resolute band. - -Alas! how different was the return! Out of that party of fifteen men, -one had gone to his long home, eleven others were carried alongside the -ship on sledges dragged by a party despatched to their relief, and only -the remaining three were capable of walking.[2] Even they were scarcely -able to move one leg before the other, and were, on their return, placed -with the others under the doctor's hands. It was, indeed, a sad and -terrible calamity with which we had been afflicted, totally unexpected -and unparalleled in the annals of Arctic sledging experiences. On our -arrival alongside the ship, we were, of course, most warmly welcomed by -every soul on board; before entering Captain Nares called for three -cheers for our party, and then offered up thanks to Almighty God for -having preserved us through many dangers and privations, and for guiding -us back to our ship without further loss of life. - - -FOOTNOTES: - - [1] John Radmore, chief carpenter's mate, and William Maskell, able - seaman. - - [2] Radmore, Jolliffe, and Maskell. - - - - -CHAPTER XXV. - -RETURN OF ALL THE SLEDGE TRAVELLERS. - - - "Now that the winter's gone, the earth hath lost - Her snow-white robes, and now no more the frost - Candies the grass, or calls an icy cream - Upon the silver lake or crystal stream, - But the warm sun thaws the benumbed earth." - - CAREW. - -The hearty welcome we received from one and all on board the "Alert," -together with the indescribable pleasure of a warm bath, followed by a -champagne supper for those whom the doctor reported well enough to -indulge in such a luxury, made us all supremely happy; the feeling being -increased by the knowledge that our suffering companions were under the -tender care of kind and skilful hands, and that all responsibility -connected with their treatment had, so far as we were concerned, ceased. -Our late hardships and the anxiety we had felt regarding the safe return -of the party were almost forgotten, and were it not for the number of -cots hanging up outside the ward-room, and the row of beds along the -lower deck, each occupied by a sick man, we should almost have felt -inclined to regard our late sledging expedition as a dream from which we -had suddenly been awakened. - -A more thorough break-up of a healthy and strong body of men it would be -difficult to conceive. Not only had the men engaged in the extended -party under my command been attacked with scurvy, but also those who had -been absent from the ship only for short periods, and some, who may be -said never to have left the ship at all, or if they did, only for two or -three days! The disease then could not be attributed to any special -circumstance connected with sledge travelling. - -The seeds must have been sown during the time, nearly five months, that -the sun was absent, and we were in darkness. Fresh animal and vegetable -food is undoubtedly necessary for the preservation of health, and its -absence is the originating cause of scurvy. To this originating cause -all Arctic Expeditions have been equally exposed. The predisposing -causes of scurvy, which actually lead to an outbreak when the -originating cause exists, are the long absence of the sun, entailing -darkness, damp, intense cold, and bad ventilation. To these predisposing -causes our expedition was exposed for a very much longer period than any -other which sent out extended travelling parties. For this reason other -expeditions were exempt from scurvy while we were attacked. In short, -the different result was caused by the difference in latitude. As our -winter arrangements, and our scale of diet, both on board and while -travelling, were identical with those of former expeditions, the cause -of the outbreak could not have had anything to do either with diet or -winter routine. Lime-juice, though most useful in warding off for a time -and delaying an attack of scurvy, and as a cure, will not, with other -circumstances unfavourable, prevent an outbreak. This is the opinion of -all the best medical authorities; and our experience proved it to be an -undoubted fact. Some of our men had scurvy who never left the ship and -never ceased to take their daily rations of lime-juice, and others were -attacked who went away travelling at a time when daily rations of -lime-juice formed a part of the sledge dietary.[1] - -In future, when an expedition winters in so high a latitude as 82 deg. N., -the prevention of an outbreak of scurvy must be secured by improved -measures for mitigating the predisposing causes. - -Owing to the condition of the crew of the "Alert," Captain Nares -publicly announced, on the 16th of June, that on the return of the -sledge parties, he would endeavour to rejoin the "Discovery," and would -then send that vessel to England with all the invalids, and those unfit -to remain out a second winter. The "Alert" would pass her second winter -at Port Foulke, whence, in the ensuing spring, parties would be -despatched for the purpose of exploring Hayes Sound, and the adjacent -land. This work completed, that vessel also would return to England. The -reason that Port Foulke was selected as our future winter quarters was -the amount of animal life, principally reindeer, reported to abound in -that neighbourhood, and we also anticipated little or no difficulty in -breaking out in the following summer. - -This resolution was undoubtedly a wise one, for it was certain that in -the then state of the ship's company of the "Alert," many lives would be -sacrificed if all the men were required to spend another winter in the -Arctic Regions. The idea of soon reaching England acted as a cure upon -those who were in the worst stage of scurvy, and conduced more to their -recovery than all the medicines and careful nursing that they received -from our painstaking and attentive doctor. - -In the mean time great anxiety began to be felt regarding the safety of -the western sledge party under Aldrich. From the wholesale manner in -which the northern division had been afflicted, it was feared that they -also would not pass scathless. - -Still we hoped they would not suffer to the same extent. Their route was -along the coast line, and it was expected that they would have been able -to supply themselves occasionally with fresh provisions, such as hares, -geese, and perhaps musk-oxen. - -On the 18th of June, four days after the return of my party, May, with -three men and the dog-sledge, dragged by our remaining six dogs, left -the ship in order to obtain intelligence of Aldrich's party, and if -necessary to take him relief and assistance. The succeeding days were -anxious ones to all on board, and many were the trips taken to the -summit of Look-out-hill, in the hope of seeing the returning sledgers. -We could not disguise from ourselves the fact that unless they returned -quickly they would be placed in a very critical position. In a few days -they must be without provisions. This we knew. The temperature, too, had -reached freezing point, and frequently stood two or three degrees above -it, causing the surface snow to thaw, and therefore making the task of -dragging a sledge one of severe and unpleasant toil. - -On the 21st the sun reached its highest northern declination, and every -day would bring us nearer to another winter; therefore we knew that to -effect our deliverance from the ice this year, it was necessary to get -our sledging parties on board as soon as possible, in order to prepare -the ship for sea, and to commence the operations requisite for cutting -her out of winter quarters. - -The snow on the hills to the northward of us was rapidly disappearing; -but this might only be due to their southern aspect, for in our -immediate vicinity the snow appeared as deep as ever. Towards the latter -end of May the hills around the ship were perfectly bare; but the heavy -fall of snow, experienced by us during our return journey, had again -covered them as they were during the winter. - -Water began to form in little pools on the floes near the ship, and -every sign betokened the approaching disruption of the pack. On the -23rd, a few king ducks, some Arctic terns, and skuas were seen hovering -about the land, and one or two specimens of the latter were shot--their -skins swelling our natural history collection, their bodies being -reserved for the sick. - -On Sunday, June 25th, immediately after Divine Service, on ascending -Look-out-hill, to our very great delight we observed the wanderers -struggling through the hummocks some six or seven miles off. Hurrying -down to communicate the good news, a relief party was speedily formed, -and by midnight we had the very great satisfaction of receiving them all -on board. It was the old story repeated. All were suffering from scurvy, -and only Aldrich and two men were able to walk alongside the ship, one -of the latter being so bad that he was under medical treatment for many -weeks after his return on board. - -Their absence from the ship extended over a period of eighty-four days, -during which they did very good service, having explored no less than -two hundred and twenty miles of new coast line. May found them near Cape -Joseph Henry, not far from the spot where he had before brought succour -to my party. They were then struggling bravely on, but were in a very -crippled condition. It is most fortunate he succeeded in reaching them -when he did. His cheery spirit and strong help did much to assist them, -and enabled Aldrich to bring his little party alongside their Arctic -home in undiminished numbers. It was a great relief to all on board to -know that every one had returned, that no stragglers were absent. So -great was the anxiety felt until all the sledging parties had arrived, -that the lot of those on board was hardly more enviable than that of the -travellers! - -Our good ship was now converted into a regular hospital, and might -almost be said to be in charge of the medical officers; for those who -were not actually under treatment had to be placed at the disposal of -the doctor, so as to act as nurses, cooks, or attendants of some kind. -Perfect rest and careful nursing were the most essential requisites for -a complete restoration to health. Spenser must have had the recovery of -similar wayworn and stricken travellers in his mind when he wrote-- - - "Now when their wearie limbes with kindly reste - And bodies were refresht with dew repast." - -The medical staff were unremitting in their ceaseless attention to their -patients, and it was to their untiring watchfulness that we owed the -complete recovery of our sick. - -Much had to be done to get the ship ready for sea; but, for some time, -only a few officers and _three_ men could be employed in any work -connected with these preparations, the remainder being engaged entirely -with their duties to the sick. The principal work that had to be done, -before the ice broke up round the ship, was to get on board and stow -away all our powder, besides the provisions and stores that had been -landed before the winter. The housing had long been taken down, and the -upper deck had been partially cleared of snow, so that daylight was once -more admitted through the skylights and illuminators. It is a curious -fact connected with those who were for a long period absent from their -ship, that the hair on their faces became perfectly bleached, until in -fact it was nearly white. The loss of colour was gradual, and, although -noticed, was never alluded to, each one imagining that his companion's -hair was turning grey from the effects of hardship and anxiety! It was -only after our return to the ship that those possessing beards and -moustaches discovered the change that had occurred. The colour returned -in the same gradual manner that it had disappeared. We all suffered a -loss of hair from the head; but this may easily be attributed to our -sealskin caps, and other head-dresses, which were constantly worn. - -After the long use of moccasins, it took us some time to get accustomed -to leather boots, which we were obliged to wear on account of the sludgy -state of the surface of the floes and the land. With a temperature some -degrees below freezing point, nothing is more comfortable or better -suited for travelling over the pack than a good pair of moccasins. - -The return of the sledge travellers was celebrated, on the 29th of June, -by the best dinner we could afford to put on the table. As our -printing-press had long been dismantled, a written _menu_ was given to -myself and Aldrich as the leaders of the two extended sledge parties. A -beautiful sketch of the highest position reached was drawn by Moss, the -following being as near as possible a fac-simile:-- - -[Illustration: "Marco Polo." Lat. 83 deg. 20' 26'' N.] - - - MENU. - - Potage olla Podrida. - Petits Pates d'Homards. Fricassee de Pegouse et Sardines. - Rognons aux Champignons sauces dans Attrapez-en-haut. - Rissoles a la Tomato. - Machoire de Boeuf. Jambon au Champagne. - Petits Pois. Carottes. Ognons. Pommes de Terre. - Tourte de Peches. - Compote de Blancmange et Rhubarbe Fou. Pouding en Marmelade. - Pains rotis aux Anchois. - Fromage. Liqueurs. Dessert. - Cafe noir. - - H.M.S. "Alert." _29th June, 1876._ - - -On the reverse side of the bill of fare were the following verses -composed by Pullen for the occasion. It is needless to add that they -were not only appreciated, but that they found a response in every -breast:-- - - Welcome home to the wished-for rest, - Travellers to north and travellers to west! - Welcome back from bristling floe, - Frowning cliff and quaking snow! - Nobly, bravely the work was done; - Inch by inch was the hard fight won. - Now the toilsome march is o'er, - Welcome home to our tranquil shore. - - Rough and rude is the feast we bring; - Rougher and ruder the verse we sing. - Not rough, not rude are the thoughts that rise - To choke our voices and dim our eyes, - As we call to mind that joyous sight - On an April morning cold and bright, - When a chosen band stepped boldly forth - To the unknown west and the unknown north; - And we from our haven could only pray-- - "God send them strength for each weary day!" - - He heard our prayer; He made them strong; - He bore their stalwart limbs along; - Planted their sturdy footsteps sure; - Gave them courage to endure. - Taught them, too, for His dear sake, - Many a sacrifice to make: - By many a tender woman's deed - To aid a brother in his need. - - And safe for ever shall He keep - In His gentle hand the two who sleep. - His love shall quench the tears that flow - For the buried dear ones under the snow. - And we who live and are strong to do, - His love shall keep us safely too: - Shall tend our sick, and soothe their pain, - And bring them back to health again. - And the breath of His wind shall set us free, - Through the opening ice to the soft green sea. - -Captain Nares had hinted that, in the present condition of the men, and -supposing also that those of the "Discovery" were in the same state, he -would not be justified in allowing even one ship to remain another year -exposed to the rigours of an Arctic winter and to the same causes that -had led to the recent outbreak of scurvy. We were prepared for this -announcement; for we well knew that to remain out a second winter, -although there were many of us ready and eager to do so, would simply be -to sacrifice many valuable lives for no object; for we could not -possibly expect to reach a higher northern latitude, or even to extend -our explorations much farther to the westward, although the whole force -of the expedition should be confined to the one direction. In deciding -to return to England, Captain Nares showed great moral courage, and -exercised a sound and wise judgment, in the opinion of all his officers. - -On the Sunday following the return of Aldrich's party, a special -thanksgiving was offered up to Almighty God for our safe return, and -prayers were also said for the speedy recovery of our sick comrades. - -On the 1st of July, on the usual monthly medical examination being held, -only ten men out of our fine ship's company were reported in a fit state -for work, and some of these were convalescents! The invalids, however, -thanks to the doctor's assiduous care, were improving slowly but surely. - -The thaw had by this time commenced. The snow was soft and wet in the -valleys, small rivulets were already meandering through the ravines and -gorges, whilst the summits of the mountains were covered with brown -patches that the wind and thaw combined had left bare. Little tufts of -the beautiful purple saxifrage dotted the sides of the hills over which -we walked, bringing forcibly to our minds the wild flowers of our own -dear country, and creating a longing desire to behold them once more. -Footprints of animals, notably musk-oxen, were occasionally observed; -but although these traces appeared fresh, they were evidently those of -the preceding autumn, which, having been covered with snow and frozen -hard during the winter, had thus been perfectly preserved. - -On the 5th of July, however, we were so fortunate as to shoot three -musk-oxen within three or four miles of the ship, and on the following -morning another fell a victim to the prowess of our sportsmen. This was -indeed a God-send, for without fresh meat the recovery of our sick would -be long and tedious. The actual amount of food obtained from these -animals was at the average rate of 120 lbs. from each. The dexterity -with which the beasts were operated upon after death would have done -credit to the most accomplished butchers. Our first dish of liver and -bacon at breakfast was, it is needless to say, done full justice to--the -only fault being an insufficiency in amount. - -Fresh provisions were indispensable for the restoration of the invalids -to health. Shooting parties were, therefore, organized amongst the -officers, and the whole country for a radius of many miles was well -scoured in search of game. These shooting parties were very enjoyable, -especially to those who, like myself, had been engaged on one of the -prolonged sledging expeditions--the contrast being very great. No -anxiety, little or no responsibility, careless of time, and oblivious of -everything save our own pleasure and convenience. Sleeping when we felt -tired, and having our meals when we felt hungry, the night the same as -the day, the sun at midnight being as bright as at noon, free from all -cares, intent only on sport, the time passed in a serene and delightful -manner, and we were truly sorry when the time came to relinquish our -gipsying life for a more civilized one on board. - -On one of these shooting tours I was away from the ship, accompanied by -a few choice spirits, for fourteen days. During that time we succeeded -in obtaining a couple of musk-oxen, and several brent geese, which were -a welcome addition to the fresh meat already obtained for the sick on -board the ship. What delightful little meals we used to cook for -ourselves, each one taking his turn, and vying with the others in his -endeavours to make his dishes excel those of his predecessor! - -On one occasion we had for breakfast the livers and gizzards of thirteen -geese served up with a little bacon, these being the perquisites of the -sportsmen. In the enjoyment of such luxuries it is not surprising that a -return to the ship, and our everlasting Australian and New Zealand beef -and mutton, was not hailed with delight. - -All this time the thaw had been rapidly progressing, the tops of the -hills were bare, and the ravines were rendered almost impassable from -the mountain torrents that dashed down towards the sea, gaining strength -and volume as they neared their outlets. These had to be crossed by the -shooting parties, the water reaching up to our waists, and flowing with -such force as nearly to carry us off our legs. As for change of -clothing, we had none; but on reaching our tents we would get into our -sleeping-bags and leave our wet clothes outside to dry; the temperature -at this time being about 40 deg.. A warm supper, with a pannikin of hot tea, -followed by a glass of grog, soon made us forget the discomforts of the -past in the enjoyment of the present. - -[Illustration: BRENT GOOSE AND EIDER DUCKS.] - -Some of the scenery, about five or ten miles in the interior, was -extremely picturesque. The spot that we selected for our camp was on the -borders of a lake that formed one of a chain extending to the south -westward. Some of the hills surrounding these lakes were beautifully -carpeted with the pretty little purple saxifrage, a _draba_, a -_potentilla_, and other wild flowers, while the valleys were covered -with patches of luxuriant vegetation, consisting of grasses and -delightfully soft moss. Altogether the aspect of the surrounding country -afforded a striking contrast to what it was but a few short weeks back, -when still wrapped in its wintry garb. - -On our return to the ship on the 24th of July, we were glad to hear -that our invalids were progressing favourably, and the convalescents -regaining strength. It was also a source of great gratification to us to -find a broad stream of water forming outside our protecting floe-bergs, -and extending from Point Sheridan to as far south as we could see. This -was a very agreeable and unexpected surprise. Active preparations were -at once made to release the ship from her icy prison. All stores and -provisions were re-embarked, instruments were brought on board and -carefully packed up and put away, boats were hoisted up, the screw -lowered, and the engines reported in good working order. Strict orders -were issued that no one was to be absent from the ship, on any pretence, -for a longer period than four hours without express permission. Any day -might see our release! Anxious eyes were constantly directed towards the -pack, which was now acted upon both by wind and tide, drifting north and -south as it felt their influences. - -A large cairn, fully ten feet high, was erected on the summit of "Cairn -Hill," in which was deposited a record stating briefly what had been -accomplished by the expedition, and giving a list of the officers and -men of both ships. To this document each of the former attached his -signature. Will this ever be disturbed by our fellow-men? - -Strenuous exertions were made by means of powder to blow up the ice -between the ship and the channel of water that almost tantalized us by -its existence, and so clear a passage by which we could effect our -escape. Countless torpedoes, containing from 1 to 50 lbs. of powder, -were used to accomplish this object, and many hours of hard labour were -expended in the same endeavour. At length, on the morning of the 31st -of July, our exertions were crowned with success, and great was the -excitement on board when hurried orders were issued to raise steam with -all despatch and to prepare for sea! A fresh south-westerly wind had -blown the pack off the shore, leaving a clear channel of water extending -as far as could be seen to the southward. - -By 7 A.M. the ship was free and afloat, and at eight o'clock the colours -were hoisted, and we succeeded, without much difficulty, in steaming -clear of the prison that had for eleven long months so securely held us -in its icy fetters. - -Who can describe the feelings experienced by all on board the "Alert" on -again hearing the long-silent throbbing of the engines, and knowing that -the ship was once more in motion? - -Yet a slight pang of regret was felt at leaving the barren, sterile -coast, off which we had passed so many happy days, and we could not but -feel grateful to the kind floe-bergs which had, during that time, -protected us so well from "ye merciless yce." - - -FOOTNOTE: - - [1] As soon as it was possible to use the lime-juice in the form in - which it was supplied to the expedition (that is, in jars or bottles) - all sledge parties were invariably supplied with it as a daily - ration. - - - - -CHAPTER XXVI. - -THE RETURN VOYAGE IN THE ICE. - - - "Let our trusty band - Haste to Fatherland, - Let our vessel brave - Plough the angry wave." - - THORHALL'S _Saga_. - -Cape Joseph Henry was lost to sight as the "Alert" rounded Cape Rawson; -but very heavy ice off Cape Union for a time completely obstructed our -progress. - -Excessive caution was necessary in handling the ship amongst these -ponderous floes. Patience combined with perseverance are essential -virtues inseparable to successful ice navigation, and they were -constantly called into requisition in order to ensure a safe deliverance -from the dangers which surrounded us. - -A vigilant look-out had to be kept on the pack, and the ship was moved -from time to time in order to avoid a "nip." Frequently we would observe -a heavy floe coming into contact with the large grounded masses of ice -that lined the coast, forcing them over, or crumbling them into -shapeless fragments, thus clearly illustrating our own fate should we be -so unfortunate as to be caught between the two. - -The orders "up" and "down screw and rudder" were given and executed -several times during each day. As on our outward journey, preparations -were now made for abandoning the ship at a moment's notice. Tents, -clothing, cooking utensils, and all necessaries for a life on shore were -spread out on the upper deck in readiness to be thrown on the ice in the -event of such a catastrophe. - -The cool way in which we all spoke of the probable loss of our home, and -the prospect of being cast adrift at a moment's notice, was very -remarkable. Perhaps the knowledge that our consort, the "Discovery," was -within some forty miles of us, and therefore within easy travelling -distance, might account for the light manner in which such a calamity -was regarded; but it was impossible to disguise the fact that the loss -of our good ship would be a very serious, not to say uncomfortable, -event. - -Steam had to be kept ready at a few minutes' notice, so as to take -advantage of every little opening that might occur in the ice, even -though we should only succeed in advancing a few hundred yards. On one -occasion the ship was purposely forced into the pack, with which it -drifted to the southward; but on the turn of the tide, when the ice -began to drift in the opposite direction, it was no easy matter to free -ourselves from the bondage to which we had voluntarily subjected -ourselves. If it can be avoided, it is best not to allow a ship to get -beset, even when the drift of the pack is favourable. - -As we proceeded south, although our progress was slow, the change in the -appearance and massiveness of the ice was very palpable. Occasionally we -would meet small specimens of our palaeocrystic friends, over which we -had travelled during the preceding spring, but, as a rule, the ice was -of a much lighter description. Still the floes were far heavier than -those met with in Baffin Bay, and by no means to be despised. - -During the time the ship was detained, waiting for the ice to open to -allow her to proceed, our sportsmen were not idle, landing at all hours -of the day and night in order to procure fresh food for the sick. So -successful were they in their forays that the sick were supplied with a -fresh meat meal daily,--geese, ducks, and hares forming the principal -part of their "bags." The slaughter amongst the former was -tremendous--entire flocks numbering from fifty to seventy birds falling -victims to the prowess of not more than two guns, and within the short -space perhaps of half an hour! The unfortunate birds being in the act of -moulting were, of course, unable to escape the unerring aim of our -marksmen. - -In addition to crops of mustard and cress that we succeeded in raising -on board, we were able to obtain small quantities of sorrel, which the -convalescents were sent on shore to gather from the valleys and sides of -the hills, often returning with sufficient to enable a limited allowance -to be served out periodically. Sometimes the sick men were sent on shore -themselves to _browse_ on this excellent antiscorbutic. - -On the morning of the 5th of August, being within twenty miles of the -"Discovery," Egerton, accompanied by one of the men, was sent to give -them information of our position. Our own ship was then, and had been -for the past forty-eight hours, effectually jammed by the ice and unable -to move. In the mean time we on board the "Alert" were endeavouring to -get our vessel clean, and into something like order and ship-shape. On -the following morning we sustained a slight "nip," caused by the ice -setting rapidly in towards us. Our rudder head was badly wrenched before -the rudder could be unshipped, and the iron tiller was bent and -crippled. We only succeeded in easing the pressure by exploding some -charges under the ice. In the forenoon Rawson, with two of the men -belonging to the "Discovery," walked on board. We were, of course, -delighted to see them and to hear news of our consort. - -From them we learnt that poor Egerton had lost his way, and did not -arrive on board their ship until after he had been wandering about for -eighteen hours! The news from the "Discovery" was what we feared. -Notwithstanding the large amount of musk-ox flesh procured by them -during the autumn and following summer, scurvy had attacked her crew in -almost the same virulent manner as it had ours. The return journeys of -some of their sledge parties were simply a repetition of our own. -Beaumont's division--the one exploring the north-western coast of -Greenland--had suffered very severely, and we heard with extreme regret -that two of his small party had succumbed to this terrible disease. - -The rest of his men, with himself and Dr. Coppinger, had not yet -returned to the "Discovery," having remained in Polaris Bay to recruit -their healths. This was, indeed, a bitter ending to our spring campaign, -on which we had all set out so full of enthusiasm and hope. It had the -effect, however, of confirming Captain Nares in his resolution to -proceed to England. With such broken-down crews it would have been folly -indeed to have risked the rigours of a second Arctic winter; and there -was really nothing left for us to do, Beaumont having done his work so -well that it would have been impossible for us to have extended any -exploration in that quarter. The "Discovery" had been afloat for some -time, and was in perfect readiness to proceed to sea on the arrival of -Beaumont and his party. Their absence caused us great anxiety, as the -pack, being in motion between ourselves and Polaris Bay, and -consequently where they would have to cross, made us fully alive to the -risks and dangers they would encounter whilst crossing it. Still we -hoped to hear of their safe arrival as soon as we should drop anchor -alongside our consort in Discovery Bay. - -The most important news was that a large seam of lignite of the Miocene -period had been discovered within about three miles of their winter -quarters. They had not been able to utilize this coal, but several large -specimens had been carried to the ship--the result of experiments made -being that it was reported, for steaming purposes, equal to the best -Welsh coal. - -Whilst imprisoned by the ice and waiting to escape, our naturalist made -an interesting discovery within two hundred yards of the ship. On the -beach, about twenty feet above high-water mark, he observed some wood -which, on examination, proved to be portions of sledge runners and -cross-pieces; also a snow scraper, made from the tusk of a narwhal or -walrus, and a large lamp, apparently a piece of schistose rock hollowed -out.[1] These relics are the most northern traces of Eskimos yet found. -Their position would lead one to suppose that the wanderers had arrived -so far north along the shores on the western side of the channel, and -from thence crossed over to the opposite Greenland coast; the cliffs to -the northward being very steep, and although not actually impassable, -great difficulty would be experienced in travelling along their base. -This, and the absence of animal life, would readily account for their -desire to leave such an inhospitable and sterile land. - -On the 7th and 8th of August the ship was subjected to some very severe -squeezes. On the latter day a large floe-berg pressed violently against -the vessel and forced her on shore, lifting the stern bodily out of the -water to a height of about five feet. The noise of the cracking of the -beams and the groaning of the timbers was a sound that once heard will -never be forgotten. To those below, the crumbling of the pitch in the -deck seams sounded like a shower of hail on the upper deck. Fortunately -for us the floe-berg was heavy and of deep flotation, and therefore -grounded before it had time to cause the destruction of the ship. It was -a grand sight to witness some of the neighbouring floe-bergs--great -masses of ice from sixty to seventy feet in thickness--turned completely -over and swept away by the pack in its irresistible career. - -[Illustration: REDUCING A FLOE-BERG.] - -We had no time, however, to indulge ourselves in watching spectacles of -such magnificence. Our position was by no means pleasant: any pressure -upon the ship, caused by spring tides or otherwise, must inevitably -crush her; and the prospect of another winter in the ice began to dawn -upon us. There was apparently no escape, as, from our experience of the -preceding year, we had cause to believe that, when once the floe-bergs -grounded along the coast, they remained immoveable during the whole -winter, and here were we forced on shore by a floe-berg which had -grounded immediately outside us. Our only chance was to reduce the huge -mass of ice by which we were imprisoned, so as to lighten it -sufficiently to float and drift away at high water. It was a bold idea; -but it was no sooner resolved on than every available working man in the -ship, irrespective of rank or station, was busily employed with axe, -pick, or chisel in demolishing the obstruction. On the third day, so -energetically was the work carried out, that the judicious explosion of -a heavy charge of powder immediately under the berg had the effect of -floating it away at high water, and the ship was released. - -The pack being loose, we succeeded in making good progress, and on the -following evening had the very great satisfaction of anchoring alongside -the "Discovery," after having been separated from her for nearly twelve -months. An interchange of visitors immediately took place. Local news, -for want of more important intelligence, was fully and freely discussed, -and the routine of the winter and the doings of the sledge parties -formed topics of interesting conversation. The prolonged absence of -Beaumont and his party acted as a damper upon our spirits, for we could -not hide from ourselves the fact that their journey across the strait -must be a hazardous one. So uneasy did Captain Nares feel regarding -their safety that he determined upon going in search of them, even over -to Polaris Bay. Accordingly, on Sunday morning, the 13th of August, -having transferred all our sick and helpless hands to the "Discovery," -and having our own ship's company supplemented by six men from our -consort, we again made a start, but were stopped by heavy ice at the -entrance of the harbour, through which it was quite impossible to -penetrate. On the following day, to our great delight, we observed a -tent pitched on the ice about three miles to the southward of the ship. -A relief party was quickly formed, and in a few hours we had the extreme -pleasure and satisfaction of welcoming Beaumont and his party on board, -none the worse for what they had recently gone through, and almost -indignant at all offers of assistance that were made to them. On account -of the drifting of the pack over which they had been travelling, their -work, during the last three or four days, had been excessively severe. -On occasions they were compelled to continue the march for thirty-two -and twenty-two consecutive hours without resting. - -As the ice still remained packed and impenetrable, we were unable to -advance, although more than one unsuccessful attempt was made to push -on. On several occasions the dredge was hauled and with good and -interesting results. The coal seam was also visited by different parties -of officers. It exists in a visible seam on the northern side of a -ravine, and is about three hundred yards long and twenty-five high. We -were unable to ascertain its depth below the surface of the ground, or -its thickness. - -[Illustration: H.M.S. "ALERT" FORCED ON SHORE.] - -We were also very fortunate in finding a large number of vegetable -fossils in the surrounding limestone, some of the leaf impressions being -very clear and perfect. At the head of the ravine is a magnificent cave, -formed by the two sides of the gorge and covered with a roof of frozen -snow. This roof is apparently permanent, as when we visited the cave it -was precisely in the same condition as when it was first discovered -twelve months before! The cave is very large, capable of -accommodating easily sixty or seventy men. - -During these excursions several butterflies were caught and brought on -board as specimens, as also some flies, gnats, and other _diptera_. Many -hares were also shot, to the great delight of our doctor, who had been -working like a horse in order to bring his patients round. - -The scenery in the channel between Bellot Island and the mainland, -through which we passed in one of our vain attempts to get south, was -very striking: bold cliffs, and hills rising to a height of two thousand -feet on either side, intersected by deep ravines and gorges having -almost precipitous sides and terminating in bays and little harbours. - -On Sunday the 20th, by dint of boring and charging, at the expense, -however, of our rudder head, we succeeded in forcing a passage through -the ice in Lady Franklin Bay, and into a broad stream of water extending -along the coast to the southward, which we fondly hoped would eventually -lead us into open water.[2] But navigation in ice-bound seas is indeed -uncertain. For on the following day we were compelled to seek refuge -inside a land-locked and apparently well-protected and secure harbour. -How deceitful was its appearance! Hardly an hour had elapsed after -entering this sheltered retreat, before the "Alert" was severely nipped -by a heavy floe and forced on shore. - -For many hours the ship remained in a very critical position, as the -tide receding left her completely high and dry, and listed over at an -angle of 25 deg.. - -So steep was the bank on which we had been forced, that at low water we -were able to walk, "dry shod," from the stem to the main chains, whilst -aft the water was over our mizzen chains, and within a short distance of -the taff-rail. A good sensational photograph and some sketches were made -of the ship in this unpleasant position. Strenuous efforts were, of -course, at once made to lighten and float the vessel. The fore part was -entirely cleared, and the chain cables brought aft. A bower anchor was -laid out astern in order to haul the ship off to. - -The manner in which this latter work was performed was both novel and -ingenious. A small but heavy piece of ice was secured and brought -alongside the ship. On this was placed the anchor, as on a raft. It was -then towed by boats to the position decided upon, when the raft was -destroyed by exploding a charge of gunpowder immediately underneath it, -the anchor, of course, sinking to the bottom. - -With such good will did all work, that we had the joy and satisfaction -of seeing our good ship afloat, and ready to proceed, in about fifteen -hours from the time of the accident taking place. The bay, which was the -scene of our mishap, was called Rawlings Bay, after one of our men, who -was my sledge captain in all my expeditions. A musk-ox skull and the -horn of a reindeer were picked up by Feilden close to where the ship was -aground, proving that the neighbourhood is occasionally visited by these -animals. - -From this time, until the 9th of September, we were engaged in a -never-ceasing struggle with the ice, frequently detained for many hours, -and rarely advancing more than a few hundred yards during the day. The -fast-forming ice reminded us unpleasantly of the near approach of -winter, whilst the land had again assumed its wintry covering of snow. -On the 22nd of August candles had to be used below at midnight for -reading or writing. The young ice was found very tenacious, glueing and -cementing the broken fragments of floes together. This caused such an -impediment to our advance, although the pack was what is termed loose, -that we were on several occasions compelled to relinquish all attempts -at penetrating farther, and to secure the ships until a more favourable -opportunity should occur. Our stock of coal, too, was getting alarmingly -small, and had to be very carefully economized. Without the means of -steaming, our chance of escape would, indeed, have been small. - -On the 24th we rounded Cape Fraser;[3] on the 27th,[4] so slow was our -progress, that we only just succeeded in getting into Dobbin Bay, where -we were detained until the 3rd of September. The temperature had fallen -to 19 deg.. Last year we were frozen up on the 3rd of September, and here -were we on the same date with as low a temperature and many miles to -accomplish before we could actually be clear of the ice! - -Snow also began to fall heavily, and everything appeared gloomy and -inhospitable. As there was now a prospect of our being forcibly detained -for another winter in the ice, and as some of our provisions were -getting low, on passing the large depot established in Dobbin Bay on our -way up the previous year, we landed and brought off all the tea, sugar, -and chocolate, and such other articles as we were likely to require. - -Whilst this work was in progress, a large ground seal (_Phoca barbata_) -was shot by Hans, of the "Discovery," on which was found a partially -healed wound; on further examination, an iron-pointed harpoon with an -ivory socket, evidently of Eskimo construction, was discovered imbedded -in its blubber. It would have been very interesting if we could have -traced, by the manufacture of the instrument, the tribe to which it had -belonged and the locality where the wound was inflicted. - -One morning, when some little distance from the land, a small fox, of a -mottled colour, wandered off to the ship, being attracted towards us -either by hunger or curiosity. The officer of the watch, always on the -_alert_, soon spied the little animal cruising about amongst the -hummocks and shot it. The skin was preserved with the collection of -natural history specimens, whilst the body was eaten by us at dinner and -found to be delicious. Passing Cape Hawks, and Allman Bay, an inlet -which was named after the distinguished President of the Linnaean -Society, we continued to push the ships in the direction of open water -to the south, which we at length reached. - -It was with no small amount of thankfulness that on the 9th of September -we emerged from the cold, grim clutches that seemed only too ready to -detain us for another winter in the realms of the Ice King, and that we -felt our ship rise and fall once more on the bosom of an undoubted ocean -swell. It was, indeed, a joyous sensation to look around and see nothing -but blue water, and, with the exception of a few straggling bergs, not -a single speck of ice in sight. This broad sheet of water had for some -time been known to us, having been observed from the summits of various -hills that we had ascended, and all our energies of late had been -concentrated into reaching it. We had a hard fight, but perseverance and -patience ultimately proved triumphant. - -[Illustration: ALLMAN BAY.] - -On first reaching it, we found it to be coated with a thin layer of -young ice, which offered a great deal of hindrance, although it had not -the effect of checking us altogether. Our course through this young ice -could be distinctly traced for a long distance astern, by a broad lane -of water resembling the Suez Canal. At 6 P.M. we passed Cape Sabine, and -distinguished our cairn on the top of Brevoort Island apparently -untouched. Ahead was Cape Isabella, towards which we steered. - - -FOOTNOTES: - - [1] I have already referred to this discovery in my remarks on the - migrations of the Eskimos, at p. 69. - - [2] At this time the "Pandora" was cruising in the entrance of Smith - Sound, with an impenetrable barrier of ice blocking her way to the - northward. - - [3] On this day the "Pandora" succeeded in landing a party on Cape - Isabella for the second time, searching for a record. - - [4] On the 27th the "Pandora" was driven out of Smith Sound by a - gale. - - - - -CHAPTER XXVII. - -HOMEWARD BOUND. - - - "Still in the yawning trough the vessel reels, - Ingulfed beneath two fluctuating hills; - On either side they rise, tremendous scene, - A long dark melancholy vale between. - The balanced ship, now forward, now behind, - Still felt the impression of the waves and wind, - And to the right and left by turns inclined." - - FALCONER. - - "_Montano._--What from the cape can you discern at sea? - - _1st Gent._--Nothing at all: it is a high-wrought flood; - I cannot, 'twixt the heaven and the main, - Descry a sail. - - _Montano._--Let's to the seaside, ho! - - _3rd Gent._--Come, let's do so; - For every moment is expectancy - Of more arrivance. (_Within._) A sail! A sail! - - _4th Gent._--The town is empty; on the brow of the sea - Stand ranks of people, and they cry--a sail!" - - _Othello._ - -Shortly before midnight, on the 9th of September, Cape Isabella was -reached and the ships were clear of Smith Sound. As, on our outward -journey, to me had been allotted the duty of erecting a cairn on that -prominent headland, and establishing a post office, so, on our return -journey, was I assigned the duty of visiting the place in order to -ascertain if letters had been deposited there during the period of our -absence by any enterprising friend. On reaching the lower cairn, to my -great surprise--for we hardly expected that any one would have visited -the place since our departure the previous year--I found an additional -cask had been placed alongside the one that I had established there. -This was quickly opened, and found to contain a small mail for each -ship. - -Hurriedly leaving a record notifying our visit, we eagerly seized our -treasures and made the best of our way to the boat. Great was the -excitement when the news spread that a mail from England was actually on -board, and we were soon deep in the enjoyment of perusing late letters -from home, a pleasure to which we had so long been strangers. - -Many were the heartfelt expressions of gratitude that rose to the lips -of those lucky recipients of home news towards that gallant officer and -friend who had so perseveringly and so generously, in spite of many -dangers and difficulties, succeeded in depositing their letters so far -north. The bulk of our mail we imagined had been left either at Disco or -Upernivik. Had we examined the cairn on the summit of Cape Isabella, we -should there have learnt that the same kind and disinterested friend had -taken them to Littleton Island, and there safely deposited them. Being -ignorant of this fact, and the weather being against our proceeding -thither, a course was shaped to the southward; those who were under the -impression that our English letters were really on that island being -consoled by the fact that we were steering homewards, and that in a -short time letters would be no longer necessary or of any value. - -Wars, and rumours of wars, were prevalent, for our latest news came from -England at the time when all Europe was disturbed and unsettled by the -complexion of affairs in the East. - -This made us all the more anxious to get home quickly; but alas! -everything was against us. Tempestuous weather, with the wind _always_ -contrary, was our introduction to our own element, and, as our coal was -running very short, we were obliged to put the ships under canvas and -thrash them at it. Icebergs were innumerable, and, as the nights were -increasing in length and the darkness in density, they were anything but -pleasant neighbours. - -On the 12th of September it was blowing so hard and the weather was so -thick, that it was determined to seek an anchorage under the lee of the -land in Whale Sound, and there wait until the weather moderated. With -this object the ships were worked up under fore and aft sails and steam, -eventually anchoring in a small bay (Bardin Bay) in close proximity to -the Tyndall Glacier. As we came in we observed an Eskimo settlement on -the eastern side of the bay, and several natives were seen running along -the land towards us; but as the glacier intervened they were unable to -communicate, and the weather was too bad to allow us to send a boat to -them. This was much to be deplored, as, irrespective of the fact that -these people were the first human beings that we had seen for many a -long month, it was desirable that we should propitiate them in favour of -white men, and for this purpose we had many little articles of infinite -value to them, such as knives, needles, thread, scissors, etc., besides -provisions, ready for their acceptance. - -These natives were of the same tribe as those who were so kind to Kane -and Hayes, and also to the "Polaris," so it would have been a good -action, independently of all other reasons, could we have befriended -them. - -We had not been at anchor, however, more than five hours before a change -of wind, accompanied by heavy squalls which came over the hills fast and -furious, obliged us to get under weigh, and again put to sea, although -the weather was as thick and the wind as strong as ever--added to which -hail and snow showers were frequent: altogether a very unpleasant and -miserable night was spent, for it was nearly midnight when we were -forced to fly from our harbour. - -On the 16th we were beating about off the entrance to Lancaster Sound, -near Cape Byam Martin. This was all familiar ground to me, and brought -back to my recollection scenes on board the old whaler, "Arctic," that -had occurred in the same locality three years before. We made many tacks -in our endeavours to weather Cape Walter Bathurst, but, for a long time, -without success, for the wind invariably headed us on each tack. - -On the 20th several eider-ducks, some turnstones, rotges, and -snow-buntings were seen, but all going in a southerly direction, -apparently anxious to seek warmer climes before the winter should have -claimed both the sea and land. How we envied these birds their means of -locomotion! for foul and strong winds causing slow progress, were -beginning to be very irksome. Our old friends the "mollies" (fulmar -petrels), that we had not seen for so long, again joined us, and might -be seen continually darting down and picking up in their voracious maws -all scraps that had been thrown overboard. - -[Illustration: FULMAR PETRELS ("MOLLIES").] - -The persistent manner in which the bad weather clung to us was quite -marvellous. Hardly a fine day had been enjoyed since we emerged from the -ice. The words of Falconer would have been applicable to us, and might -have been repeated with truth every morning: - - "A lowering squall obscures the southern sky, - Before whose sweeping breath the waters fly. - - * * * * * - - It comes resistless! and with foaming sweep, - Upturns the whitening surface of the deep." - -At length, after being buffeted about for many days, the high land of -Disco was sighted on the 25th of September; and on the same day we came -to an anchor in the little harbour of Godhavn, and congratulated -ourselves once more upon our return to civilization. - -The day, as if to make up for our previous bad weather, was a bright -sunny one, and perfectly still and calm. This was all the more -appreciated after the turbulent seas which had lately almost driven us -distracted. The scenery coming in was very beautiful. On one side were -the high cliffs of Disco, intersected here and there with deep fiords -and bays, whilst on the other lay the perfectly quiescent sea, studded -with icebergs of all shapes and sizes. Occasionally the surface of the -water would be ruffled and disturbed by the appearance of a seal's head, -as the inquisitive little animal would pop it up to gaze curiously at us -as we steamed slowly by; or else a whale, as he swam lazily along, would -give a flick with his huge tail, or spout a jet of water in the air, -which might be taken either as a welcome back to more genial climes, or -an angry remonstrance that a monster larger than himself should dare to -live in his own particular domain. Birds flew around and alighted near -us. One, a ger-falcon, was so bold as to venture to perch upon our -fore-royal truck; but, I am ashamed to relate, was fired at for its -misplaced confidence. It escaped, however, unhurt. Everything was bright -and joyous, and all were happy and elated. Our joy was slightly marred -on arrival to find that our mails had really been taken on and left at -Littleton Island; but a mail, with letters of a later date than those -brought out by the "Pandora," which had been got together and made up -for us at Copenhagen by my cousin, had just arrived in the Danish brig -"Tjalfe." - -Of course it could not be expected that, during the period of our -absence from England, no sad changes should have taken place, and the -sorrowful faces of more than one among us testified to the fact that -some dear and loved ones would be seen no more in this world. - -From Mr. Krarup Smith, the Inspector, we learnt that the "Pandora" had -only taken her departure for England four days previously, having been -unsuccessful in her endeavours to reach Cape Sabine. The attempt had -only been relinquished by her commander when the lateness of the season -compelled him to beat a retreat. A supply of beer, sent from England by -my cousin, was found awaiting our arrival, and was most acceptable. A -cask of beer had also been kindly left for our use by Allen Young, so -that we were enabled to supply "all hands" with a glass of beer twice a -week during the passage to England. Through the kindness of the Danish -authorities, we were able to obtain thirty tons of coal, with a promise -of thirty more if we chose to go to Egedesminde, another settlement -about sixty miles to the southward. This was an offer too valuable to be -disregarded, and was accepted by Captain Nares. - -Having shifted our rudder, which, to use an American phrase, was "pretty -considerably chawed up," from its treatment by the ice, and made good a -few other defects, we took our departure from Godhavn on the morning of -the 28th, Mr. Krarup Smith, the Inspector, coming on board to accompany -us round to Egedesminde. As we steamed out of harbour the little -three-gun battery fired a farewell salute, the ensigns on shore, and on -board, were dipped, and the ladies (two in number), from their -verandahs, waved with their pocket handkerchiefs a last adieu. It was a -fine clear morning as we left; but a thick fog soon overtook us, in -which we remained enveloped for the remainder of the day, and it was not -until the following morning that we reached our destination. - -Our way took us through a perfect labyrinth of small islands, some of -the narrow channels through which we had to pass being almost blocked by -large grounded masses of ice, remnants of icebergs. The "Alert" and -"Discovery" being the first steamers that had ever visited Egedesminde, -the natives turned out in force to witness our arrival. Several kayaks -came skimming rapidly along the smooth and unruffled surface of the -water as we approached, their occupants gazing with evident astonishment -at the large "umiaks," whose motive power was to them invisible and -incomprehensible. The Danish flag was run up on three separate -flag-staves on shore, and a salute of seven guns was fired to welcome -our arrival. - -There is much similarity about the various Danish settlements in -Greenland. The houses are of the same size and colour, and generally of -about the same number, whilst all possess their little church, their -storehouse, and their cooperage. The settlement is very prettily -situated on the northern side of the largest of a group of many islands -of all sizes. These are of the same metamorphic formation, and possess -a more luxuriant vegetation than we had hitherto seen. The island is -covered with numerous small lakes and ponds, and is extremely marshy and -swampy. The difficulty of walking, without sinking up to the ankles in a -bog, is very great. - -The population of Egedesminde, which is the most southern settlement in -the Inspectorate of North Greenland, is about one hundred and thirty -souls, including the Danes, who with the Governor and his family number -about twelve. The entire population of North Greenland is about four -thousand three hundred. - -The boggy substance, like peat, is dug up and stacked during the summer, -and when dried is very generally used as fuel. The chief employment of -the inhabitants is, as at the other settlements, that of collecting -skins and blubber. Reindeer are obtained on the mainland, but they are -not plentiful. - -The Governor, Mr. Boldroe, was good enough to present us with a fine -large haunch of venison; but, curious to relate, when served up, it had -an unmistakeable taste and odour of musk! Our scorbutic patients, who -were at this time nearly all convalescent, benefited largely from the -quantities of fresh fish, principally cod, obtainable at this place. - -On the morning of the 2nd of October, having received on board the -amount of coal promised, we bade our kind friends farewell, and steamed -away amidst the usual firing of guns and dipping of colours. The -stoppages at these two civilized places were very pleasant breaks to us, -after our long absence from society of any description, except our own, -and were not regretted by any one. Indeed, the kindness and true -hospitality extended to us by our Danish friends in the different -settlements in Northern Greenland will long be remembered with feelings -of gratitude and pleasure. - -From the date of leaving this our last port until our arrival at -Valentia, we experienced very tempestuous weather. Strong head winds -were in constant attendance, and the ship's general state was being -"battened down and under close-reefed topsails." Under these -circumstances our daily rate of progress was remarkably slow, and on -some days we found that we had actually increased our distance from home -instead of having lessened it. Few on board had before experienced a -longer continuance of really stormy weather. From the severe buffeting -we received, our rudder, already crippled, was reduced to such a state -as to be absolutely useless, the rudder-head being almost wrenched off, -and we were obliged to steer the ship during the remainder of the voyage -by means of the rudder pendants. - -On the 16th of October, to the intense surprise of everybody, a vessel -was sighted ahead, which proved to be the "Pandora." How very small is -this world we live in! Here were we in the middle of the broad Atlantic, -fifteen hundred miles from England, and out of the course of all ships, -and yet actually meeting a vessel that had purposely come out to seek -us. - -The weather was too bad to allow us to communicate, but an interchange -of news was effected by signal. The three ships remained in company for -a couple of days, when they lost sight of each other in thick and blowy -weather, we having previously ordered the "Discovery" to rendezvous at -Queenstown in case of parting company. - -Our rudder being in such a dilapidated state, Captain Nares determined -upon putting in to Valentia for the purpose of shifting it, the spare -one having in the mean time been temporarily repaired. With this object -we anchored in the snug little harbour of Valentia, on the 27th of -October, and here Captain Nares and several of the officers left for the -purpose of proceeding at once to London to report our arrival. - - "Now, strike your sayles, yee jolly mariners, - For we be come unto a quiet rode, - Where we must land some of our passengers - And light this wearie vessel of her lode. - Here she awhile may make her safe abode." - -It is in vain to attempt to describe the pleasure we all felt at -beholding trees and green fields once more, with the cattle browsing in -them. It is difficult at once to throw off old habits, and there were -many on board who expressed their anxiety to land at once with their -guns for the purpose of shooting "that herd of musk-oxen." Had we given -way to our inclinations, I fear our reception would not have been so -warm or so hospitable as it was. - -The people of Valentia were the first to bid us welcome. Their kindness -and hospitality will never be effaced from our memory. The rudder having -been shifted, and sundry repairs executed, we took our departure on the -following morning at daylight, being guided out of the place by a most -eccentric and original old pilot. On the 29th we reached Queenstown, -where we found the "Discovery" had arrived only a couple of hours -before. Here again we received a warm welcome and enjoyed that hearty -hospitality for which the Irish people are so justly celebrated. That -evening we were the guests of the Port Admiral, he and Mrs. Hillyar -hearing of no refusal, although we had to sit down to dinner in--well, -clothes very dirty and very much the worse for wear. The next day, -having taken in a supply of coals, we started for Portsmouth, the two -ships remaining in company and arriving in that harbour together on the -2nd of November. - -Our reception there and afterwards is a matter of history. Suffice it to -say that our exertions received the approbation of our country and of -our brother officers, and that the Lords of the Admiralty were pleased -to express their satisfaction at the manner in which the expedition had -been conducted by our leader, as well as at the way in which the work -had been carried out by his subordinates. - -My story has now come to an end. My aim has been to describe our daily -life during a very eventful service. - -I have quoted largely from my journal, and in some instances I have -thought it best to copy from it _verbatim_. - -Nothing is further from my thoughts than to claim for this narrative any -literary merit whatever. I simply wish it to be regarded as a plain but -accurate statement of facts--an unpretending account of the cruise of -one of the ships of the late expedition--by one of its members. - -In launching my little book upon the ocean of literature, I venture to -quote the words of brave old Master Beste, who, being engaged in -compiling a record of another Arctic expedition, humbly apologizes, as I -do, for submitting his work to the public:--"And herein I humbly pray -pardon, for my rude order of writing, which proceedeth from the barren -brayne of a souldier and one professing armes, who desireth rather to be -wel thought of with your honour for his well meaning than for anye hys -cunning writing at all." - -[Illustration: _FAREWELL!_] - - - - -INDEX. - - - Admiralty, Lords of, visit to the Polar ships, 9; - satisfaction at the results of the expedition, 368. - - Admiralty Inlet, remains of Eskimos on shores of, 68. - - Albert Head, 65. - - Aldebaran, erratic conduct of, 200. - - Aldrich, Lieut. Pelham, R.N., skill in managing a kayak, 30; - starts on a reconnoitring expedition in the autumn, 128; - second autumn journey with dog-sledge, 133; - starts on a third autumn journey, 136, 137; - ascends a hill near Cape Joseph Henry, 147; - glees by, 169, 216; - his lecture on meteorology, 169; - orchestra for the Royal Arctic Theatre, 171, 175, 214; - plays the harmonium at church, 187; - one of his dogs lost, 190; - plays at Christmas, 194, 195; - commands the extended party to the west, 241; - anxiety for his safety, 331; - return, 332. - - Ale, prepared specially for the expedition, 17. - (_See_ Beer.) - - "Alert," H.M.S., 1, 2; - special fittings, 3; - departure from Portsmouth, 9; - leaves Berehaven, 12; - commencement of the voyage, 15; - a lively ship, 17; - arrival at Godhavn, 26; - departure from Godhavn, 34; - on shore, 43; - proceeds to Cary Islands, 48; - Port Foulke, 51, 56; - perilous position of, 65, 91; - at Hannah Island, 100; - in Discovery Harbour, 104, 108, 293; - on shore near Cape Beechey, 112; - in the palaeocrystic ice, 117, 118; - crosses the threshold of the unknown region, 119; - danger at Floe-berg Beach, 125, 134; - precarious winter quarters, 125, 135, 136; - housed in, 154; - internal winter arrangements, 156; - printing establishment, 165; - departure of sledges from, 257; - scurvy breaks out on board, 321; - succour from, reaches N. division, 325; - freed from winter quarters, 342; - forced on shore, 351; - afloat again, 347; - at Valentia, 367. - (_See_ Winter Quarters.) - - "Alexandra," H.M. sledge, 217, 259, 263. - - Alexandra Bay, 61, 63. - - Amusements in winter quarters, 167; - importance of, 163. - (_See_ Theatricals.) - - _Anonyx nugax_: crustacea brought up at the extreme northern point, 309 - (_n._). - - Arctic Circle crossed by the expedition, 26. - - Arctic Highlanders, 48. - (_See_ Eskimo.) - - Arctic school, 166, 167, 213. - - Arctic theatre. (_See_ Theatricals.) - - "Arctic," whaler, reminiscences of, 360. - - Astronomical observatory, 153, 180. - - Astronomy, lecture on, by Captain Nares, 169; - by Commander Markham, 169. - - Atanekerdluk, fossil plants at, 36. - - Atlantic, gales of wind in, 17, 18. - - Auks, Little. (_See_ Rotges.) - - Autumn depot. (_See_ Depots.) - - Autumn travelling, 128, 129, 133, 137 to 150; - discomfort, 141; - severe work, 147, 148; - return from, 148, 149; - results, 149. - - Auxiliary sledges, 234. - - Ayles, Adam, song by, 216. - - - Bache Island, of Hayes, not an island, 64. - - Baffin, William, gave name to Woman Isles, 41. - - Bag (sleeping), 139, 233, 235, 240, 279, 283, 287. - - Baird Inlet, 57. - - Baird, Cape, stopped by ice off, 103. - - Banks Island, heavy pack on west coast, 200. - - Bantry Bay. (_See_ Berehaven.) - - Bardin Bay, 359. - - Barrow, Cape John, 93. - - Bears, hunt in Melville Bay, 46; - recent tracks, 86. - - Beaumont, Lieutenant, H.M.S. "Discovery," his journey along the north - coast of Greenland, 346; - return of, 350. - - Beechey, Cape, Eskimo remains at, 69; - lane of water in direction of, 102, 112, 113; - rounded, 114. - - Beer at Godhavn, 363. - - Bellot, Cape, 103, 112; - Island, 112, 351. - - Berehaven, expedition at, 12. - - Bessels Bay, entrance passed, 100; - description of, 101. - - Bessels, Dr., observation as to meetings of tides at Cape Fraser, 92; - coast-line correctly delineated by, 99. - - Beverley, crimson cliffs of, 48. - - Bide-a-wee Harbour, 58. - (_See_ Payer Harbour.) - - Bills of fare, 185, 186, 196, 335. - (_See_ Play-bills.) - - Birds of the Arctic regions, 24, 35, 50; - Brent geese, 345; - dovekies, 50, 101; - eider duck, 101, 131, 360; - falcon, 362; - fulmar petrel, 361; - glaucous gulls, 50; - ivory gulls, 50, 101; - kittiwakes, 50; - king ducks, 50, 332; - knots, 110; - looms, 40, 50; - ptarmigan, 225; - rotges, 46, 50, 360; - skuas, 332; - terns, 110, 332; - turnstones, 360. - - Birthdays, celebration of, 184, 185. - - Black, Cape, 253. - - Blasting the ice, 87, 89, 90, 341, 349. - - "Bloodhound," H.M. sledge, 259, 263. - - Boats for the expedition, 4; - search for, left by Hayes, 53, 55; - on a sledge, 58; - jolly-boat of "Valorous" landed in Dobbin Bay, 84; - turned in on their davits owing to height of ice, 90; - advanced to northward of ship, 133; - hauled up during winter quarters, 157; - on sledges, 242 (_n._); - in Parry's expedition, details of, 243 (_n._); - painted, 245; - care of, on sledge, 279; - abandonment of, by Commander Markham, 288, 289, 318. - - Boldroe, Mr., governor of Egedesminde, 365. - - Botanical collections, 31. - - Botany. (_See_ Vegetation.) - - Bottle-nose whales, 20. - - Brent geese, 345. - - Brevoort Island, 57; - cairn on, 356. - - Brevoort Cape in sight, 103. - - "Bruin," largest dog on board, 210. - - Bryant, Geo., H.M.S. "Discovery," serving in the "Alert," 169. - - Buchanan Strait, Eskimo remains at, 69. - - "Bulldog," H.M. sledge, 217, 259, 263. - - Burroughs, Geo., ship's steward, H.M.S. "Alert," acts in _Chops of the - Channel_, 173. - - Butterflies, 351. - - Byam Martin Cape, 360. - - - Cairns at the Cary Islands, 49; - at Life-boat Cove, 53; - at Cape Isabella, 56; - on Brevoort Island, 356; - ancient cairns on Washington Irving Island, 85; - on Hannah Island, 101; - at Lincoln Bay, 117; - at the "Alert's" winter quarters, 284. - - Cairn Hill, 219, 220, 221, 225; - cairn built, 341. - - Cane, Frederick, armourer, H.M.S. "Alert," songs by, 169, 215. - - Carl Ritter Bay, 99. - - Cary Islands, 48; - depot on, 49, 84. - - Castletown. (_See_ Berehaven.) - - Cave in the snow, 350. - - Cetaceans, various kinds, 20, 21. - - "Challenger," H.M. sledge, 217, 259. - - Chlorine observations, 180. - - _Chops of the Channel_, play acted by the men, 173. - - Chorus, grand palaeocrystic, 216. - - Christmas in the Arctic regions, 192 to 197; - bill of fare, 196; - poem on, 196. - - Clavering, Captain, Eskimo seen by, on east coast of Greenland, 69. - - "Clements Markham," H.M. sledge, 217; - starts for "Discovery," 248. - - Clements Markham Inlet, 288. - - Clothing during winter, 159, 160; - sledging, 239. - (_See_ Foot-gear.) - - Coal, discovery of, 350; - offer of, at Egedesminde, 363. - - Cod-fish, 21, 25, 365. - - Colan, Dr., H.M.S. "Alert," his lecture on food in the Arctic regions, - 169; - medical instructions to officers of sledges, 238; - skilful treatment of Petersen, 255; - attention to scurvy patients, 333, 338, 345. - - Cold, extreme, 208, 222, 224. - (_See_ Temperature.) - - Collinson, Cape, 94. - - Cook, while sledging, 235, 265. - - Cooking apparatus, weight, 233; - description, 235. - - Copenhagen, letters sent out from, 363. - - Coppinger, Dr., H.M.S. "Discovery," state of lime-juice found by, in - Polaris Bay, 305; - journey with Lieut. Beaumont, 346. - - Cress. (_See_ Mustard and Cress.) - - Crimson cliffs of Beverley, 48. - - Crinoids dredged up, 73. - - Crow's-nest, description, 3; - Captain Nares constantly in, 66; - a cold berth, 98. - - Crozier Island passed, 98. - - Crustaceans dredged up at the extreme northern point, 309. - - Cryolite mine in Greenland, 20. - - Crystal Palace Glacier, 50. - - - Dancing at Christmas, 197; - old year, 204. - - Darkness, approach of, 127; - in sledge travelling, 141; - in winter, 178, 182; - monotony of, 207. - - Davis, John, musicians in the expedition of, 8; - gave name to Cape Desolation, 22, 23. - - Davis Strait, 18, 19, 20. - - Daylight. (_See_ Light.) - - Deaths. (_See_ Petersen, Porter, "Discovery.") - - Depots on Cary Isles, 49; - Cape Isabella, 56; - Dobbin Bay, 85, 353; - Cape Collinson, 95; - Cape Morton, 102; - Lincoln Bay, 117, 248; - Floe-berg Beach, 122, 124; - near Cape Joseph Henry, 147, 149, 263, 321; - to southward of Floe Berg Beach for "Discovery" sledges, 255; - for sledge parties, 234. - - "Deptford," snow storehouse so called, 154. - - Desolation, Cape, 22. - - Diptera, 351. - - Disco, 6, 18, 34, 358, 362; - tradition of, 33, 34; - view from hills of, 31. - (_See_ Godhavn.) - - Disco Bay, 31. - - "Discovery," H.M.S., 95; - departure from Portsmouth, 9; - commencement of voyage, 15; - sighted off Greenland coast, 25; - towed by the "Alert," 41; - following, 45; - sent to communicate with natives at Cape York, 48; - at Port Foulke, 56; - perilous position, 65; - grounds off Cape Louis Napoleon, 90; - in great danger, 91; - blown from her anchors, 95; - lands a depot at Cape Morton, 100; - in harbour, 104; - winter quarters of, 107; - sledge crew from, joins the "Alert," 108; - theatre on board, 174; - a health to, 217; - depots laid out for sledges of, 227; - work of sledge parties, 242; - arrangement for opening communication with, from "Alert," 246, 255; - to return to England, 330; - joined by "Alert," 344, 345; - scurvy among crew of, 346; - two deaths, 346; - rendezvous at Queenstown, 367. - - Discovery Harbour, 104, 106, 112; - "Alert" arrives at, 347. - - Distant, Cape, walk to, 110; - "Alert" passes, 112. - - Divine service, 187; - on Christmas day, 195; - before sledges start, 258, 259. - - Dobbin Bay, 83, 86; - depot at, 84, 353. - - Dock cut in the ice at Dobbin Bay, 86. - - Dockyard. (_See_ Portsmouth.) - - Dog-driver. (_See_ Petersen.) - - Dogs, Eskimo, 29, 38, 78, 79; - disease, 79; - wailing, 88; - habits, 130; - sledging, 80, 81, 128; - dog "Sallie" lost and found, 190, 191; - alarm of during winter, 199; - nearly steal musk-ox beef, 207; - alarm caused by, 210; - regularly fed, 210; - team sent with sledge to "Discovery," 247, 255; - trouble with, 253. - (_See_ Bruin, Sallie, Flo, Nellie.) - - Dovekies, 50, 101, 115. - - Draba, 57, 340. - - Dredging, 25, 73, 102. - - Driftwood, 112. - - Drip. (_See_ Snow.) - - Drip, inconvenience of, in winter, 182. - - Ducks. (_See_ Birds.) - - Dumb-bell Bay, 131. - - Dundas Harbour, remains of Eskimos at, 68. - - D'Urville, Cape, passed, 83. - - - Edinburgh, H.R.H. the Duke of, visit to Arctic ships, 8. - - Egedesminde, offer of coals at, 363; - expedition at, 364, 365. - - Egerton, Lieut. George Le Clerc, R.N., officer of the watch when the - ship touched the first ice, 22; - starts on autumn travelling, 133; - stage manager of the Royal Arctic Theatre, 171; - parts taken by, 174, 214; - sails his sledge, 231 (_n._); - sent to open communication with "Discovery," 247; - his efforts to save Petersen, 249 to 254; - second start for the "Discovery," 255; - sent to the "Discovery," 345. - - Eider ducks, 131, 360. - - Electricity, observations on, 180. - - Ellesmere Land, 50. - - Eskimo, Frederic, 29, 128; - Hans Hendrick, 39, 48, 354; - pilot, 42. - (_See_ Dogs.) - - Eskimos, 33; - at Proven, 38; - Cape York, 48; - Etah, 52; - traces of, in Payer Harbour, 58; - in Twin-glacier Bay, 61, 62; - wanderings, 67, 69; - Admiral Sherard Osborn and Mr. Clements Markham on wanderings of, 68, - 69; - remains on Capes Sabine, Hilgard, Louis Napoleon, Hayes, Fraser, - shores of Buchanan Strait, Radmore Harbour, and Bellot Isle, 69; - at Admiralty Inlet and Dundas Harbour, 68; - at Cape Beechey, 69, 347; - in Whale Sound, 359. - - Etah, native village, 52, 69. - - Eugenie, H.I.H. the Empress, present of woollen caps from, 7, 236, 239, - 287; - visits the Arctic ships, 8. - - Exercise during winter, 181, 187; - for sledging crews, 227, 228. - - - Falcon, 362. - - Farewell banquets, 8; - to the expedition at Portsmouth, 9, 10, 11; - to the "Valorous," 35. - - Farewell Cape, 19, 23, 69. - - Feilden, Captain, naturalist, H.M.S. "Alert," ascends hill above - Bessels Bay, 101; - visits Distant Cape, 110; - his lecture on geology, 169; - picks up skulls in Rawlings Bay, 352. - (_See_ Naturalist.) - - Ferbrache, Wm., sledge crew, N. division, symptoms of scurvy, 306. - - Figure-heads of the Arctic ships, 4. - - Finner whale, 20. - - Fire, precautions against, fire-hole, 160, 161; - alarm of, 226. - - Fishing on the Torske bank, 25. - - Fiskernaes, expedition off, 24. - - Fitting out the expedition, 1 to 8. - - "Flo," Eskimo dog, met with adrift, near Cape Joseph Henry, 323. - - Floes. (_See_ Ice.) - - Floe-bergs, description of, 114; - "Alert" secured inside a fringe of, 122, 125; - split by intense cold, 211. - - Floe-berg Beach, depot at, 122, 124; - desolate scene at, 126; - view from, 127; - winter quarters at, 132. - - Flowers. (_See_ Vegetation.) - - Foot-ball on the ice, 77. - - Foot-gear, while sledging, 260, 261, 268, 280. - - Foraminifera brought up at the extreme north point, 309. - - Fossils, collections in Bessels Bay, 102; - in the coal, 350. - - Fossil plants, at Atanekerdluk, 37; - in the coal near Discovery Harbour, 350. - - Foulke Port, 51, 56, 69, 330. - - Foxes, traces of, 60, 107; - fox shot, 354. - - Fox trap, 68. - - Francombe, Reuben, H.M.S. "Alert," parts and songs by, 173. - - Franklin Pierce Bay, 72. - - Fraser, Cape, 55, 72; - Eskimo remains on, 68; - passed by the ships, 92; - meeting of the tides, 93; - rounded, going south, 353. - - Frederick VII., Cape, ship in danger off, 114. - - Frederic, 29, 128. - (_See_ Eskimo.) - - Freezing, experiments in, 223. - - Fresh meat, 186. - (_See_ musk-ox, hares, Brent geese.) - - Frost-bites, danger of, 81; - Petersen frost-bitten in the autumn, 129; - danger of, in autumn travelling, 142; - many frost-bites in return autumn journey, 147; - Lieut. May's severe frost-bite, 148; - other frost-bites and amputations, 148; - sufferers during the winter, 198; - precautions against, 199, 208; - on the dog sledge, in journey to "Discovery," 249. - - "Frost-bite Range," 148. - - Frozen ocean, 200, 215; - depots cannot be laid out on, 234, 244; - difficulty of travelling over, 242; - movements of, 242. - (_See_ Palaeocrystic Sea, Sledgings.) - - Fulmar petrels, 361. - - - Gales of wind in the Atlantic, 17, 18; - in Smith Sound, 59; - in Robeson Channel, 119; - at Floe Berg Beach, 124; - furious gale during autumn travelling, 133, 134; - in winter quarters, 205, 206; - while sledging, 282, 283, 285, 296, 297; - on the voyage home, 366, 367. - - Geese. (_See_ Brent.) - - Geology, lecture on, by Captain Feilden, 169. - - Geological collections, 31, 102, 116, 350. - (_See_ Fossils.) - - Geological formation, 64, 67, 68; - physical aspect of the coast lines, 99. - - Ger-falcon, 362. - - Giffard, Lieut. R.N., H.M.S. "Alert," magnetic observer, 154; - in charge of the printing, 164 (_n._), 169, 175, 215, 216; - lecture on magnetism by, 169; - parts taken by, in theatricals, 214. - - Gilbert, Sir Humphrey, musicians on board ship of, 7. - - Glaciers: of Jacobshavn, 32; - of the Waigat, 36; - of Omenak fiord, 38; - near Cape York, Petowik, 48; - Crystal Palace, 50; - my brother John's (of Kane), 52; - twin glaciers, 60, 61; - of Grinnell Land, 64, 73, 83; - in Bessels Bay, 99; - Tyndall, 359. - - Glaucous gulls, 50. - - Godhavn, arrival at, 26; - lovely weather at, 33; - hospitality of the people, 33, 363, 364. - - Godthaab, expedition off, 24. - - Good, Joseph, petty officer, H.M.S. "Alert," song by, 168. - - Gore, Wm., stoker, H.M.S. "Alert," song by, 216. - - Grampus, 21. - - Grand palaeocrystic chorus, 216. - - Greenland, streams of ice, sweep down east coast of, 23; - coast of, 25; - natives on east coast, 69; - insularity of, argument from tides, 92; - distant view from Floe-berg Beach, 128; - exploration of northern coast, 242, 346. - - "Greenwich," observatory at winter quarters so called, 152. - - Grinnell Land, description of, 67, 72; - coast line, 94. - - Gulls, 50, 101, 332, 360. - - Guy Fawkes' day celebrated, 179. - - - Hair frozen into solid masses, 209; - effect of sledge travelling on colour of, 334. - - Hakluyt Island, 50. - - Hall Basin, 100, 101. - - Haloes, 200. - - Hannah Island, ships anchored inside, 100; - visit to, 101. - - Hans Egede, 24. - - Hans Hendrik, Eskimo engaged at Proven, 39; - endeavour to engage his brother-in-law, 48; - seal shot by, 354. - - Hares, traces of, 60, 107; - at "Alert's" winter quarters, 211; - traces of, on the Polar Sea, 296, 314; - left by Captain Nares for N. division, 321; - shot, going south, 345, 351. - - Harmonium, obtained from the "Valorous," at church, 187. - - Hartstene Bay, arrival at, 51. - - Hawks, Cape, 83. - - Hayes, Dr., 51, 52, 53, 72, 73, 85, 99, 360. - - Hayes, Cape, Eskimo remains on, 69; - ascent of, 90. - - Hayes Sound, 60; - tides in, 62; - intended exploration, 330. - - Henry Island of Hayes, not an island, 64. - - "Hercules," H.M. sledge, Lieut. W. H. May, R.N., 137, 217. - - Hilgard, Cape, Eskimo remains on, 69. - - Hoskins, Commodore A. H., sledging flagstaff presented by, 307. - - Housing for winter quarters, 154, 155, 156. - - Hudson's Bay Company's Taboggans, suitable in soft snow, 281. - - Hummocks, difficulty of marching over, on the Polar Sea, 278, 279, 281, - 284, 301; - discoloured by mud, 301; - great barrier of, 303; - great size, 304, 305; - different colours of, 316. - - Hunt, Wm., ward-room cook, H.M.S. "Alert," songs by, 214. - - Hydrostatics, lecture on, by Lieut. May, 169. - - - Ice, first seen, 22; - stream of, near Cape Farewell, 23; - the middle pack, 44, 45; - dangers, 65, 66; - occupations when detained by, 66; - ships stopped by, 57, 65, 73, 82, 90, 95, 103, 110, 113, 121, 344; - amusements on the, 77; - dock cut in the, 86; - great height of, 89; - increasing thickness, 96; - extending across Hall Basin, 100; - pressure on Cape Frederick VII., 114; - of the Polar Ocean, 127, 147, 200; - the dangerous state of the, in autumn travelling, 141; - movement of, during winter, 184; - character of, in travelling over the Polar Ocean, 284, 291, 300; - symptoms of disruption, 315, 320; - state of, on the voyage southward, 344. - (_See_ Palaeocrystic, Blasting, Floe-bergs, Hummocks.) - - Ice navigation, most important maxim in, 45; - uncertainty of, 57, 64; - qualities required for, 82. - - Icebergs first sighted, 22; - constantly seen, 23; - in Disco Bay, 32, 34; - danger from, in the Waigat, 38; - indicate shoal water, 60; - danger from, off Albert Head, 65; - ships endangered by, 91; - number decreasing, 96; - innumerable, 359. - - Independence, Cape, of Kane, 98. - - Insects collected, 351. - - Isabella, Cape, 356, 357; - Captain Markham lands at, 56, 57, 95; - letters at, 358. - - Itivdliarsuk glacier, 36. - - Ivory gull, 46, 50, 101. - - - Jacobshavn, glacier of, 32. - - John Barrow, Cape, 93. - - Jolliffe, Thos., petty officer, H.M.S. "Alert," in N. division sledge - party, holds out to the end, 326 (_n._). - - Joseph Henry, Cape, 127; - Aldrich starts for, in the autumn, 136; - depot near, 147; - dog "Sallie" lost at, 190; - arrival of sledges at, 263; - floes off, 282; - encamped abreast of, 285; - description of, 285; - northern division of sledges reaches, 321; - last seen, 343. - - - Kane, Dr., his open polar sea, 72, 98, 360. - - Kardluk Point, in the Waigat, 36. - - Kayak, difficulty of using, 30; - adventure of Mr. Wootton, 30; - Eskimo pilot in, 43. - - Kennedy Channel crossed, 103; - musk-oxen on east side of, 103. - - "Kew," magnetic observatory at winter quarters so called, 154. - - Kew Observatory, thermometer tested at, 223. - - King ducks, 50, 332. - - Knapsacks, sledging, contents, 235, 236. - - Knots, seen and secured at Distant Cape, 110. - - - Lady Franklin Inlet, 103, 111. - - Lafayette Bay (of Kane), 98, 99. - - Lancaster Sound, geology, 67; - remains of Eskimo on shores of, 68; - "Alert" off mouth of, 360. - - Lemmings, traces of, 107; - description, 115, 116; - eaten by "Nellie," 212; - traces away from the land, 278. - - Letters at Cape Isabella, 358; - at Godhavn, 363; - at Littleton Island, 358, 362. - - Lieber, Cape, 102. - - Lievely, 26. - (_See_ Godhavn.) - - Life-boat Cove, visit to, 53. - - Light, lecture on, by Lieut. Parr, R.N., 169; - return of, 207, 225. - - Lime-juice, regular daily issue of, 16; - impossibility of using, while in a frozen state, away sledging, 238; - taken on the sledges by Commander Markham and Lieut. Parr, 238; - served out to sledge crew by Commander Markham, 305; - useless unless the whole volume is thawed, 305; - its use in the treatment of scurvy, 329; - used on all sledge journeys when its use was possible, 330. - - Lincoln Bay, 115; - coast between, and Cape Union, 121; - depot, 117, 248. - - _Little Vulgar Boy_, play acted by the officers, 214. - - Littleton Island, visit of Captain Nares and Commander Markham to, 53, - 55; - not visited, going south, 358; - mail at, 358, 362. - - Looms (_see_ Birds), 40, 41. - - Loom soup, 40. - - Louis Napoleon, Cape, Eskimo remains at, 69; - passed by the ships, 90. - - Lyngenmarkfjeld, in Disco, ascent of, 31. - - - M'Clintock, Admiral Sir Leopold, sledge of, the best, 281; - superintends outfit of expedition, 2; - his detention in the Melville Bay pack, 44; - sledge equipments superintended by, 231; - on the absurdity of taking frozen lime-juice on sledges, 238; - tea-leaves recommended by, 316. - - Magnetic observations, 31; - while sledging, 73, 180, 305; - snow observatory for, 152, 153, 209. - - Magnetism, lecture on, by Lieutenant Giffard, R.N., 169. - - "Marco Polo," H.M. sledge, 137, 217, 259. - - Marine shells found above sea-level, 116. - - Markham, Commander Albert H., R.N., visit to Littleton Island, 53; - to Cape Isabella, 56; - to Hannah Island, 101; - to Distant Cape, 110; - starts on an autumn reconnaissance, 128; - starts on second autumn sledge journey, 133; - on main autumn sledge journey, 137, 144; - in charge of magnetic observations, 154; - lecture on astronomy, 169; - parts taken by, 174, 214; - followed by a wolf, 228; - takes lime-juice on his sledge, 238; - in command of the northern division of sledges, 242, 311; - attains the most northern point ever reached by man, 309, 311; - resolves to abandon large boat, 288, 289; - serves out lime-juice, 305. - - Markham, Clements, on Eskimo wanderings, 68. - (_See_ Clements Markham.) - - "Markham Hall," storehouse at winter quarters, 152; - demolition of, 210. - - Maskell, William, H.M.S. "Alert," songs by, 169, 216; - parts taken by, 174; - sledge crew, N. division, holds out to the end, 317, 318 (_n._). - - May, Lieutenant W. H., R.N., starts on autumn travelling, 137; - severely frost-bitten, 147; - suffers amputation, 148; - astronomical observer, 152; - his lecture on hydrostatics, 169; - manager of the theatre, 214; - glee sung by, 216; - sails his sledge, 231 (_n._); - comes to the rescue of the northern division, 325; - goes to succour Aldrich's party, 331, 332. - - Medical staff, their tests of the physical capacity of the officers and - men, 15; - unremitting care of the sick, 333. - - Medical inspections, 187, 204, 258, 326, 337. - - Medical stores for sledges, 238 (_n._); - weight, 233. - - Medical instructions to commanders of sledges, 238. - - Melville Bay, 18, 44; - passage through, 44; - bear hunt in, 46. - - Melville Island, remains of Eskimo at, 69; - musk-oxen at, 106. - - Men of the expedition, selection of, 4; - tests of physical capacity, 15; - regular daily issue of lime-juice to, 16; - always reliable in an emergency, 125; - sufferings and excellent conduct in autumn travelling, 134, 145; - their good humour and wit, 146; - frost-bites and amputations, 148; - clothing during winter, 159, 160; - school for, in winter, 166, 167, 213; - theatricals, 171, 173; - Christmas cheer, 195; - fondness for dancing, 195, 197, 204; - excellent health, 204; - paleness on return of sun, 211; - heroic conduct while sledging, 277, 286, 287, 291, 302, 310, 311, - 313, 316, 352. - - Meteor, brilliant, seen at winter quarters, 201. - - Meteorites at Ovifak, 31. - - Meteorological observations, 162, 180, 183, 223. - - Middle pack, Captain Nares's resolve to take the, 44. - - Miocene Period, coal of, discovered, 347. - - Mollies, 361. - - Moon, 181. - (_See_ Paraselenae.) - - Moravian missionaries, 24. - - Morton, Cape, 100, 102; - depot of, 100. - - Morton, Mr., his "open polar sea," 93; - description of Cape Constitution, accurate, 98; - unable to ascend cliff, 98. - - Mosquitoes, plague in Greenland, 32. - - Moss, Dr., surgeon, H.M.S. "Alert," reading by, 168; - lecture on mock moons under the microscope, 169; - makes a balloon on Guy Fawkes' day, 180; - paints scenery for theatre, 171; - succours the northern division, 326; - sketch for bill of fare by, 335; - paints the boats, 245. - - Murchison Sound, 50. - - Musical instruments, 7. - (_See_ Harmonium, Piano.) - - Musicians in the ships of Sir H. Gilbert and John Davis, 7, 8. - - Musk-oxen, traces of, 60, 61; - hunting, 104; - range of, 106; - traces in Discovery Harbour, 107; - beef presented by "Alert" to "Discovery," 108; - hunt in Shift-Rudder Bay, 113; - quantity of meat from, 186, 204; - meat nearly stolen by dogs, 207; - in the summer, 338. - - Mustard and cress grown in the "Alert," 205, 211, 345. - - - Nares, Captain George S., R.N., resolves to take the middle pack, 44; - visits Life-boat Cove and Littleton Island, 53; - constant vigilance, 66; - visits Hannah Isle, 101; - ascends hill above Cape Morton, 102; - selects winter quarters for "Discovery," 107; - observes opening in the pack, 114; - catches a lemming, 115; - desirous of finding a more sheltered spot for winter quarters, 128, - 135; - his account of sledge travelling, 140; - lecture on astronomy, 169; - gives name to the Palaeocrystic Sea, 200; - excellent health and spirits of those under his command at the - commencement of the New Year, 204; - lecture on sledging experiences, 215; - arrangement for opening communication with "Discovery," 246; - unjust attack upon, regarding lime-juice, 237; - absurdity of the charge against him, 238; - his Union Jack taken with northern division, 258; - at Cape Joseph Henry Depot, 321; - leaves hares for northern division, 321; - comes to the relief of the northern division, 325, 327; - decision to return home, 337, 346; - anxiety for safety of Beaumont, 349; - accepts offer of coal at Egedesminde, 363; - lands at Valentia, 367; - satisfaction of the Admiralty with his conduct of the Expedition, 368. - - Narwhal hunting, 59. - - Naturalist, zeal in a gale of wind, 19; - visit to Ovifak, 31; - finds Eskimo remains at Cape Beechey, 69; - ascends hill in Bessels Bay, 101; - at distant Cape, 110. - (_See_ Feilden, Captain.) - - "Nellie," Commander Markham's black retriever, coveted by Eskimos at - Proven, 39; - dislike of Eskimo dogs, 78; - surprise at the tabogganing, 188; - stood the cold well, 188, 189; - adventure with, in the unifilar house, 209, 210; - eats the lemmings, 212; - followed by a wolf, 228. - - Nelson, Lord, an old Arctic officer, 179. - - New Year's day, 202, 203, 204. - - Nip, preparations for, 65, 71, 83; - off Cape M'Clintock, 94; - south of Cape Beechey, 348. - (_See_ Ice.) - - Norman-Lockyer Island, Eskimo remains on, 69, 74; - visited, 73. - - North extreme, camp, 307, 308; - farthest point ever reached, 309, 311. - - "North Water," of Baffin Bay, 47; - of Smith Sound, 72, 97. - - Northumberland Island, 50. - - Norton Shaw Cape, passed by the ships, 94. - - - Observations, scientific, in winter quarters, 180; - difficulties, 180; - while sledging, 305; - at farthest northern point, 307, 310. - (_See_ Magnetic, Meteorological, Astronomical.) - - Observatories, wooden, for transit instrument, 152; - magnetic, 154; - dismantling of, 227. - - Officers, selection, 4; - tests of physical capacity, 15; - amusements, 167; - lectures by, 169; - theatricals, 169, 173; - scientific observations, 180; - birthdays celebrated, 184; - Christmas, bill of fare for, 196; - approval of decision of Captain Nares to return, 337. - (_See_ under names.) - - Omenak fiord, discharging glaciers in, 38. - - Orchestra, Royal Arctic Theatre, 171. - - Osborn, Rear-Admiral Sherard, C.B., dedication to, v.; - on Eskimo wanderings, 68. - - Ovifak, visit of naturalist to, 31. - - - Pack. (_See_ Ice.) - - Palaeocrystic Sea, name given, 200, 234. - (_See_ Frozen Ocean.) - - Palaeocrystic floes in Robeson Channel, 92, 114, 118. - - Palaeocrystic grand chorus, 216; - sung at the most northern position ever reached by man, 310. - - "Pandora" brings letters to Cape Isabella, 358; - at Godhavn, 363; - sighted in the Atlantic, 366. - - Paraselenae, 181, 200. - - Parr, Lieut. A. C. C., R.N., ascends the hill above Bessels Bay, 101; - starts on autumn travelling, 133, 137, 144; - sledge goes through the ice, 144; - in charge of astronomical observatory, 152; - lecture on light by, 169; - takes lime-juice on his sledge, 238; - an indefatigable road-maker, 286; - sent to the ship for help, 322, 325. - - Parry, Sir Edward, his farthest northern point passed, 150; - his sense of the importance of exercising and improving the minds of - the men in winter quarters, 163, 166; - attempt to reach the pole, 243 (_n._). - - Parry Islands, Eskimo remains on shores of, 68. - - Payer Harbour, 58. - - Pearce, Alfred, H.M.S. "Alert," songs by, 216; - severely frost-bitten, 286; - attacked by scurvy, 289. - - Pemmican, 237, 270. - - Pendulum Islands, Eskimos met with near, 69. - - Petermann fiord, 100; - fine view of, 103. - - Petersen, Danish dog-driver, autumn travelling, 128, 129; - starts for "Discovery," 248; - frost-bitten, 248; - efforts to save his life, 248 to 254; - brought back to the ship, 254; - death of, 255, 321. - - Petowick glacier, 48. - - Photographing at Godhavn, 31. - - Pinkey and Collins' patent topsails, 3. - - Plants, 31, 57, 60, 74, 107. - (_See_ Vegetation.) - - Plays. (_See_ Theatricals.) - - Play-bills, 173, 175, 176, 214. - - Plymouth, visit from Commander-in-Chief, 11. - - Polar Ocean, 122, 128, 215, 234, 242; - Parry's attempt to sledge over, 243 (_n._); - march of the northern division over, 276, 311 (_see_ Hummocks), 285, - 301; - young ice, 296. - - Polaris Bay, 100; - state of lime-juice found in, 305; - sledge-crew recruiting at, 346, 349. - - "Polaris," visit to her second winter quarters, 53, 54; - her cruise, 72; - Dr. Bessels of, 92, 99; - land seen from, 101; - musk-ox shot by crew of, 106; - Eskimo kind to crew of, 360. - - Polarization of light, observations, 180. - - "Poppie," H.M. sledge, Lieut. Giffard, 217, 259. - - Poppies, 57, 74. - - Popular entertainments in winter quarters, 168, 169; - programmes, 175, 176. - - Portsmouth Dockyard, ships fitting out at, 1; - harbour, departure of expedition from, 9, 10; - return to, 368. - - Potentillas, 340. - - Prayers, 187. - (_See_ Divine service.) - - Presents to the expedition, 6, 7, 193, 194. - - President Land has no existence, 101. - - Prince Patrick Island, heavy pack on west coast of, 200. - - Prince Regent Inlet, formation of cliffs, 64, 67. - - Printing office in winter quarters, 164, 165; - prospectus, 164; - bills of fare, 185. - - Prologue, Royal Arctic Theatre, 172, 173. - - Protococcus nivalis, 48. - - Proven, arrival at, 38; - survey of, 39. - - Provisions for sledging, weight, 233; - scale, 237. - - Ptarmigan, 225. - - Pullen, Rev. W. H., chaplain, H.M.S. "Alert," glees by, 216; - lecture on Arctic plants, 169; - author of the prologue, 171, 172, 176; - leads the choir, 187; - Christmas bill of fare by, 196; - lines on the New Year by, 202; - a burlesque operetta written by, 214; - grand chorus composed by, 216; - service on departure of sledges, 258, 259; - lines welcoming return of sledges by, 336. - - - Queenstown, rendezvous at, 367. - - - Radmore, John, chief carpenter's mate, H.M.S. "Alert," sledge crew in - northern division, holds out against scurvy, 318; - to the last, 326 (_n._). - - Radmore Harbour, Eskimo's remains at, 69. - - Rainbow, 325. - - Rawlings, Thos., petty officer, H.M.S. "Alert," captain of sledge, - northern division, attacked by scurvy, 306. - - Rawlings Bay, 352. - - Rawson, Lieutenant Wyatt, R.N., joins the "Alert" from the "Discovery," - 108; - visits Distant Cape, 110; - glees by, 169; - parts taken in theatricals by, 174, 214; - skill in tabogganing, 187; - visit to snow hut built by, 212; - accompanies Egerton on journey to "Discovery," 247; - his efforts to save Petersen, 249 to 254; - arrives from "Discovery," 346. - - Rawson Cape, 219, 343. - - Records left at Cape Isabella, 57; - in cairn on Hannah Island, 101; - at extreme northern point, 312; - at Cairn Point (winter quarters), 341. - - Reindeer, Port Foulke, 52; - traces, 60; - scarce near Egedesminde, 365. - - Retrospect on New Year's day, 197. - - Reward for crossing 83rd parallel, 292 (_n._). - - Richardson Bay, 99. - - Right whales, 21. - - Rink, Dr., on the Eskimo, 33. - - Ritenbenk, expedition at, 34. - - Road-making on the ice, 273, 275, 277, 279, 286, 292, 294. - - Robeson Channel, 69; - view of, 110; - position on American chart not to be recognized, 115; - palaeocrystic floes of, 118; - examination of fiords, 242. - - Rorqual whale, 21. - - Ross, Sir John, Arctic highlanders of, 48; - red snow, 48. - - Rotges, or little auks, 46, 50, 360. - - Royal Arctic Theatre, 169, 170; - prologue, 172; - plays, 173, 214. - - Rudder, arrangement for unshipping, 3; - head damaged, 67; - unshipped for a nip, 83; - seriously injured, 113; - shifted, 113; - frequent necessity for unshipping, 344; - head badly wrenched, 344, 351. - - - Sabine, Cape, 55, 57, 59; - Eskimo remains on, 69; - passed, going south, 356. - - Sails for sledges, 231 (_n._). - - "Sallie" suspected of robbing Rawson's depot, 213. - (_See_ Dogs.) - - Salt beef, character of, 154. - - "Sanderson, his hope," shooting looms at, 40. - - Sanitary condition of the men in winter quarters, 187. - - Saxifrage, 57, 74, 340. - - Scenery of Greenland, 24; - from Disco, 31; - in Disco Bay, 35; - in the Waigat, 36; - near Cape York, 48, 50; - of the glaciers, 60; - off Cape Hawks, 83; - at winter quarters, 126; - at the extreme northern point, 310, 311. - - School in winter quarters, 165, 166; - last assemblage of, 213. - - Scientific observations in winter quarters, 180. - - Scoresby on the size of the rorqual, 21. - - Scoresby Bay, 94. - - Scurvy, 237; - premonitory symptoms, 284, 285; - dread of, 299; - increasing symptoms, 303, 304, 305, 313; - decrease of appetite, 314; - extreme weakness, 317; - outbreak on board the "Alert," 321; - true causes of the outbreak, 329, 330; - cure of patients, 333, 339, 345; - patients convalescent, 365; - outbreak in sledge crews of "Discovery," 346. - - Seals basking on the ice, 24, 45; - shot by Hans, 354. - - Selection of officers and men for Arctic service, 4. - - Self, James, A.B., H.M.S. "Alert," songs by, 216. - - Shells, marine, found above sea-level, 116. - - Shift-Rudder Bay, 114. - - Shirley, John, stoker, H.M.S. "Alert," songs by, 168; - attacked by scurvy, 282; - on the sledge, 284. - - Shooting parties in summer, 338 to 340. - - Sick. (_See_ Scurvy.) - - Simpson, Thos., H.M.S. "Alert," in sledge crew, northern division, - attacked by scurvy, 306. - - Skating, 77, 110. - - Sky, beauty of, 83. - (_See_ Meteor, Sun.) - - Sledges, description of, 231 (_n._); - sails for, 231 (_n._); - weight, 233; - boats on, 242 (_n._); - required for northern division, 244; - dog sledge sent to "Discovery," 247; - departure of sledges in the spring, 257, 258; - sledge standards, 258; - art of packing, 277; - high-runner sledges the best, 281; - (_See_ Dogs, Marco Polo, Hercules, Victoria, Bloodhound, Bulldog, - Alexandra, Challenger, Poppie, Clements Markham.) - - Sledge crews, exercise of, 227. - - Sledging, first lessons in 58; - with dogs, 79, 80, 81, 128; - first experiences, 129; - severe work, 133; - details of, 137; - shore-going notions of, 138; - realities, 139; - lecture on, by Captain Nares, 215; - grand palaeocrystic chorus, 216; - preparations for, during the winter, 230; - equipments superintended by Sir Leopold M'Clintock, 231; - weights, 233; - auxiliaries and depots, 234; - tents, 235; - cooking apparatus, 235; - contents of knapsack and storebag, 237; - scale of provisions, 237; - medical stores, 238 (_n._); - clothing, 239, 240; - programme of sledding, operations, 241; - the first encampment, 260; - intense cold, 259, 262; - arrival at autumn depot, 263; - daily routine, 264 to 270; - road-making, 273, 275, 276; - increasing difficulties, 304; - method of advancing, 295, 304, 306, 313; - most northern encampment, 307; - extreme northern point, 309 to 311; - return journey of northern division begun, 312; - northern division reaches land, 321; - return of northern division, 327; - western division, 331, 332; - eastern division, 350. - (_See_ Autumn, Hummocks, Temperature, Foot-gear, Cook.) - - Sleeping-bags, 139, 235, 240; - weight of, 233; - frozen hard, 280, 283, 287. - - Smith, Mr. Krarup, Inspector of North Greenland, his hospitality, 26, - 29, 363. - - Smith Sound, 47, 49, 69. - - Snow, crimson, 48; - heavy falls in Smith Sound, 71, 73, 95; - in Robeson Channel, 111, 119, 121; - heavy falls during autumn travelling, 147; - buildings with, 152, 153, 154; - temperature at different depths, 162; - heavy drifts during winter, 205; - drifts while sledge travelling, 261, 287, 306. - - Snow blindness, precautions against, 240; - use of goggles, 286, 303. - - Snow bunting seen by sledge crews, 319. - - Snow hut built by Rawson, 212. - - Sorrel, 345. - - Soundings at extreme northern point, 308, 309. - - Southsea Common, farewell to the expedition from, 9, 10. - - Specific gravity observations, 180. - - Spectrum analysis observations, 180. - - Standards for sledges, 258. - - Stanton, Cape, in sight, 103. - - Steam, lecture on by Mr. Wootton, 169. - - Stone, Geo., of the "Discovery," serving on board the "Alert," songs - by, 174. - - Store-bag, sledging contents, 237. - - Stoves, 158. - - Stuckberry, Thos., petty officer, H.M.S. "Alert," parts and songs by, - 173, 216. - - Summer, 337, 339. - - Sumner, Cape, in sight, 103. - - Sun, sets at midnight, 127; - final disappearance, 141; - last view of, 148, 150; - date of final departure, 151, 178; - longing for the return of, 207; - return of, 219, 220, 221, 222; - effect of, on the ice, 207, 313. - - Sylvester heating apparatus not supplied, 158. - - Symons, Robert, A.B., H.M.S. "Alert," printer, 164 (_n._), 169, 175, - 216; - songs by, 214. - - - Tabogganing, 187. - - Taboggans, Hudson's Bay Company's sledges, suitable for soft snow, 281. - - Temperature, observations for, 162; - variations during winter, 183; - extreme cold, 223, 224; - while sledging, 259, 262, 278, 283, 286, 290, 294, 295, 302, 313, - 314, 320. - - Tents, 139; - weight, 233; - description of, 235, 260. - - Terns, 110, 332. - - Tests of physical capacity, 15. - - Theatricals, dresses, 171; - orchestra, 171; - prologue, 172; - play-bills, 173, 175, 176, 214; - plays, 173, 214. - - Thermometers tested, 224. - - Thermometrical observations, 162, 223. - (_See_ Temperature.) - - "Thursday pops," 168, 169, 175, 176, 215. - - Tidal observations at Twin Glacier Bay, 62; - in winter quarters, 161, 180. - - Tides, meeting of, at Cape Fraser, 92; - in Polar Sea, 304, 309. - - "Tigress," at Life-boat Cove, 53. - - Torske bank, fishing on, 25. - - Trafalgar day celebrated, 179. - - Turnstones, 360. - - Twin Glacier Bay, 61. - - Tyndall Glacier, 359. - - - "Unies." (_See_ Narwhals.) - - Unifilar House, 209. - - Union, Cape, 101, 103, 118; - rounded, 121, 122; - pressure on, 125, 343. - - Union Jack of Captain Nares, taken with the northern division, 258; - planted at the most northern point, 309. - - Upernivik, 41, 42, 43, 358. - - - Valentia, "Alert" at, 367. - - "Valorous," H.M.S., to take out stores to Disco, 6; - joins the Arctic ships, 11; - to make the best of her way to Disco, 14; - at Disco, 28; - kindness of captain and officers, 33; - farewell to, 35; - lost sight of, 37; - jolly-boat landed at Dobbin Bay, 84; - harmonium obtained from, 187. - - Vegetation at Godhavn, 31; - at Cape Isabella, 57; - at Twin Glacier Bay, 60; - at Norman Lockyer Island, 74; - in Discovery Harbour, 107; - lecture on Arctic plants by Mr. Pullen, 169; - of the Arctic summer, 340. - - Ventilation during winter, 158; - drip, 182. - - "Victoria," H.M. sledge, Lieut. Parr, R.N., 137, 217, 259; - goes through the ice, 144. - - Victoria Head, 67. - - Von Buch, Cape, 93. - - - Waigat, scenery of, 36; - danger from fogs and icebergs, 37; - steam out of, 38. - - Wales, H.R.H. the Prince of, visit to Arctic ships, 8. - - Wales, Prince of, Mountains, 50. - - Walrus seen on the ice, 45, 74; - hunts, 74, 75, 76. - - Walter Bathurst Cape, 360. - - Warming apparatus not supplied, 157. - - Warming arrangements during winter, 157, 158. - - Washington Irving Island, ancient cairns on, 85. - - Weights for sledging, 232; - to be dragged by each man, 233; - in Parry's expedition, 243 (_n._). - - Welcome of sledge travellers to ship, 335, 336; - of the expedition, on return to England, 368. - - Whales, 20, 21. (_See_ Cetaceans.) - - Whale Sound, 49, 359. - - White, Mr., engineer, H.M.S. "Alert," lecture on history by, 169; - part taken by, at the theatricals, 174; - improvement of sledge-cooking apparatus by, 236. - - Willow, 74. - - Wind. (_See_ Gales.) - - Winter, approach of, 126. - - Winter quarters, precarious nature of at Floe-berg Beach, 126, 132; - preparations for, 151 to 254; - routine, 160. - (_See_ Ventilation, Warming, Housing, Clothing, Fire-hole, Amusements.) - - Wolf, appearance of a, 228, 229. - - Wolves, traces of, 60, 107, 321; - alarm of, 199. - - Woman Islands, 41. - - Wood, Sergeant, H.M.S., "Alert," recitation and song by, 216. - - Woolley, Wm., H.M.S., "Alert," parts and songs by, 173. - - "Woolwich," snow powder storehouse at winter quarters so called, 154; - dismantling of, 227. - - Wootton, Mr., engineer, H.M.S. "Alert," adventure in a kayak, 30; - his lecture on steam, 169, 175; - glee sung by, 216. - - - York, Cape, 47, 49. - - Young, Sir Allen, gratitude to, for bringing out letters, 358, 362. - - - - -THE END. - -PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED, LONDON AND BECCLES. - - - - - -End of Project Gutenberg's The Great Frozen Sea, by Albert Hastings Markham - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE GREAT FROZEN SEA *** - -***** This file should be named 43608.txt or 43608.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/4/3/6/0/43608/ - -Produced by Marius Masi, Greg Bergquist and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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