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diff --git a/43608-0.txt b/43608-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..8239c6f --- /dev/null +++ b/43608-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,12508 @@ +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 43608 *** + +THE GREAT FROZEN SEA + + +[Illustration: "ALERT" AND "DISCOVERY."] + + + THE + GREAT FROZEN SEA + + _A PERSONAL NARRATIVE OF THE VOYAGE + OF THE "ALERT"_ + + DURING THE ARCTIC EXPEDITION OF 1875-6 + + + BY + + REAR-ADMIRAL ALBERT HASTINGS MARKHAM, R.N. + (LATE COMMANDER OF H.M.S. "ALERT") + + AUTHOR OF "A WHALING CRUISE TO BAFFIN'S BAY AND THE GULF OF BOOTHIA," + AND "THE CRUISE OF THE 'ROSARIO'" + + + "There's a flag on the mast, and it points to the north, + And the north holds the land that I love; + I will steer back to northward, the heavenly course, + Of the winds guiding sure from above." + + FRITHIOF'S "SAGA" + + + SEVENTH EDITION + + LONDON + + KEGAN PAUL, TRENCH, TRÜBNER & CO., LT^D + + 1894 + + (_The rights of translation and of reproduction are reserved._) + + + TO + + The Memory of + + REAR-ADMIRAL SHERARD OSBORN, C.B., + + WHO, WHILE HE LIVED, WAS THE MOVING SPIRIT IN SECURING THE DESPATCH OF + THE ARCTIC EXPEDITION, AND WHOSE PAST DEEDS IN THE SAME FIELD + REFLECTED A BRIGHT RAY OF HOPEFUL LIGHT ON THOSE WHO STROVE TO EMULATE + HIS EXAMPLE WHILST FOLLOWING IN HIS FOOTSTEPS, + + This little Work + + IS REVERENTLY AND AFFECTIONATELY INSCRIBED BY + + THE AUTHOR. + + + + +PREFACE TO THE FIRST EDITION. + + +The History of the Arctic Expedition of 1875-76, and the record of its +results, will be found in the work of Sir George Nares. My object in +publishing the present volume is to furnish a popular narrative of +memorable events as they presented themselves to an individual member of +the Expedition, and especially of the work of sledge travelling over the +frozen polar ocean. It was written a few months after our return to +England, but its appearance has been purposely deferred until the +publication of the work by Sir George Nares. + +The same reasons still exist for continuing the work of Arctic +exploration as were adduced for commencing it in 1875. + +It is impossible to complete so great a work in one campaign, and the +results of the late Expedition ought only to whet our appetites, and +stimulate us to undertake further discoveries. + +The narrative of Sir George Nares will show the completeness of the +work accomplished, so far as the route by Smith Sound is concerned, and +with the appendices containing the numerous and valuable scientific +results, will prove the importance of Arctic discovery. But there are +other routes remaining to be explored, which will yield equally useful +results. + +Behring Strait is a portal leading to a vast region, the history of +which has hitherto been as a sealed book. + +An expedition to the east coast of Greenland for the purpose of +connecting our discoveries at Cape Britannia with those of the Germans +at Cape Bismarck, and thus solving the interesting geographical problem +regarding the insularity of Greenland, would be of the greatest +importance. + +The exploration of Jones and Hayes Sounds offer a rich field; but that +which, in my opinion, would yield the most profitable harvest, is the +continuation of the discoveries of the Austro-Hungarian expedition in +Franz-Josef Land. Once reach in a ship the position attained by Lieut. +Payer and his sledge party, and such a measure of success would follow +as would prove satisfactory even to the most sanguine. Although the +flags of Holland, Sweden, and America will this year float in the Arctic +Regions, that of England will be unrepresented. + +It is hardly to be expected, in the present critical state of affairs, +that our Government can afford to give either time or attention to the +subject of Arctic exploration, but when the existing differences are all +happily settled, there will really be more reasons for following up the +work than were brought forward for undertaking it in 1875. We were never +in a better position for doing so than at the present time. We possess a +couple of ships whose capabilities for Arctic navigation have been +already thoroughly tested, and found perfect; we have officers and men +experienced in the navigation of those icy seas and in sledging, and we +have stores and provisions ready to equip another expedition. + +The expense, seeing that the ships and stores are lying idle, would be +insignificant, and would hardly be more than equal to that of keeping a +couple of small gun-boats in commission. Surely this great nation could +easily afford, in the interests of science and for her own honour, to +incur such an expenditure. I trust so; and I, for one, look forward with +confident hope to the despatch, in a few years, of another Arctic +expedition as well equipped as the one of which I was lately a member. + + A. H. M. + + 21, ECCLESTON SQUARE, + _March, 1878_. + + + + +OFFICERS AND SHIP'S COMPANY OF H.M.S. "ALERT." + + +OFFICERS. + + _Captain_, GEORGE S. NARES, F.R.S. + _Commander_, ALBERT H. MARKHAM, F.R.G.S. + _Lieutenant_, PELHAM ALDRICH. + " ALFRED A. CHASE PARR. + " GEORGE A. GIFFARD. + " WILLIAM H. MAY. + _Sub-Lieutenant_, GEORGE LE C. EGERTON (promoted to Lieutenant during + the absence of the expedition). + _Fleet Surgeon_, THOMAS COLAN, M.D. + _Surgeon_, EDWARD L. MOSS, M.D. + _Engineer_, JAMES WOOTTON. + " GEORGE WHITE. + _Naturalist_, Captain H. WEMYSS FEILDEN, R.A., F.G.S., F.Z.S. + _Chaplain_, Rev. W. H. PULLEN. + + +SHIP'S COMPANY. + + Joseph Good, chief boatswain's mate. + John R. Radmore, chief carp. mate.[1] + Geo. Burroughs, ship's steward. + Vincent Dominic, ship's cook. + David Deuchars, ice quartermaster. + John Thores, ice quartermaster. + James Berrie, ice quartermaster. + Edward Lawrence, 1st cl. P.O.[2] + Daniel Harley, 1st cl. P.O.[3] + Thomas Stuckberry, 1st cl. P.O. + Thomas Rawlings, 1st cl. P.O. + James Doidge, 1st cl. P.O.[4] + Thomas Jolliffe, 1st. cl. P.O. + Spero Capato, captain's steward. + George Kemish, W. R. steward. + Frederick Cane, armourer. + John Hawkins, cooper. + William F. Hunt, W. R. cook. + Robert Joiner, leading stoker. + John Simmons, 2nd cl. P.O. + Adam Ayles, 2nd cl. P.O. + William Ferbrache, A.B. + George Cranstone, A.B. + William Lorrimer, A.B. + George Winstone, A.B. + Reuben Francombe, A.B. + Thomas H. Simpson, A.B. + David Mitchell, A.B. + Alfred R. Pearce, A.B. + James Self, A.B. + William Woolley, A.B. + John Pearson, A.B. + William Maskell, A.B. + William Malley, A.B. + Robert Symons, A.B. + Henry Mann, shipwright. + William Gore, stoker. + John Shirley, stoker. + Edward Stubbs, stoker and blacksmith. + George Norris, carpenter's crew. + Neil Christian Petersen, Danish interpreter and dog driver.[5] + Frederic, Eskimo dog driver and hunter. + + +MARINES + + William Wood, colour-sergeant R.M.L.I. + William Ellard, private R.M.L.I. + Thomas Smith, private R.M.L.I. + John Hollins, private R.M.L.I. + Elias Hill, gunner R.M.A. + George Porter, gunner R.M.A.[6] + Thomas Oakley, gunner R.M.A. + +The following sledge crew from H.M.S. "Discovery" wintered on board the +"Alert":-- + + Lieutenant Wyatt Rawson. + George Bryant, 1st cl. P.O.[7] + George Stone, 2nd cl. P.O. + Michael O'Regan, A.B. + James Hand, A.B.[8] + Thomas Chalkley, A.B. + Alfred Hindle, A.B. + Elijah Rayner, private R.M.L.I. + +The following "means" of ages, weights, and chest capacities of those +belonging to the "Alert" may be of interest:-- + + Chest + Age. Weight. Capacity + + Officers 32.1 years 149.8 lbs. 266 + Men 27.4 " 146.6 " 245.1 + General Mean 28.4 " 147.3 " 249.5 + + +FOOTNOTES: + + [1] Promoted to carpenter. + + [2] First class petty officer. + + [3] Lost in H.M.S. "Eurydice." + + [4] Promoted to boatswain. + + [5] Died on May 14th from the effects of frost-bite whilst sledging. + + [6] Died on the 8th of June of scurvy whilst sledging. + + [7] Promoted to boatswain. + + [8] Died in June of scurvy whilst sledging with Lieut. Beanmont. + + + + +CONTENTS. + + + PAGE + DEDICATION v + + PREFACE vii + + OFFICERS AND SHIP'S COMPANY OR H.M.S. "ALERT" xi + + CHAPTER I. FITTING OUT. + +Description of ships, 2; special fittings, 3; selection of officers and +men, 5; kindness of friends, 6; games and musical instruments, 7; +visitors to the ships, 8; departure, 9; arrival at Bantry Bay, 12; the +voyage commenced, 13. + + CHAPTER II. THE VOYAGE TO DISCO. + +Tests of physical capacity, 15; regular issue of lime-juice, 16; gales +of wind in the Atlantic, 17; slow progress, 19; whales, 20; the first +ice, 22; the Land of Desolation, 22; seals, 23; the Greenland coast, 25; +fishing for cod, 25; arrival at Godhavn, 26. + + CHAPTER III. THE GREENLAND SETTLEMENTS. + +An Eskimo dance, 28; Eskimo dogs, 29; amusements at Godhavn, 30; ascent +of the Lyngenmarkfjeld, 31; aid from the "Valorous," 33; tradition of +Disco, 34; Ritenbenk, 35; part company with "Valorous," 36; the Waigat +Strait, 36; dangers in the Waigat, 37; Proven, 38; Hans Hendrik engaged, +39; "Sanderson, his hope," 39; Upernivik, 41. + + CHAPTER IV. MELVILLE BAY AND THE NORTH WATER. + +Preparations for a nip, 43; the middle ice, 44; a bear hunt, 46; the +North Water, 47; Cary Island depôt, 49; approaching Smith Sound, 50; +enter Smith Sound, 51. + + CHAPTER V. SMITH SOUND. + +Life-boat Cove, 53; visit winter quarters of "Polaris," 54; Littleton +Island, 55; Cape Isabella, 56; stopped by the ice, 57; Payer Harbour, +58; first experiences in sledging, 59; Twin Glacier Bay, 60; an Arctic +paradise, 61; tidal observations, 62. + + CHAPTER VI. STRUGGLES WITH THE ICE. + +Open water, 64; in danger of a nip, 65; vigilance of Captain Nares, 66; +wanderings of the Eskimo, 68. + + CHAPTER VII. A WALRUS HUNT. DOG DRIVING. + +Grinnell Land, 72; glaciers, 73; a walrus hunt, 74; amusements on the +ice, 77; the Eskimo dogs, 78; dog sledging, 80. + + CHAPTER VIII. SLOW PROGRESS THROUGH THE ICE. + +Cape Hawks and Dobbin Bay, 83; discovery of an ancient cairn, 85; +cutting a dock, 87; struggles through the ice, 90; dangerous position, +91; Cape Fraser, 92; junction of two tides, 92; Cape John Barrow, 93; +Cape Collinson, 94; heavy squalls, 95; increasing thickness of floes, +96; icebergs decreasing in number, 96. + + CHAPTER IX. KENNEDY CHANNEL. + +Cape Constitution, 98; difference in appearance of coast-lines, 99; Hall +Basin blocked with ice, 100; Bessels Bay, 100; Hannah Island, 101; cross +Kennedy Channel, 103; musk-oxen, 104; winter quarters of "Discovery," +107; the two ships part company, 107. + + CHAPTER X. THE CROSSING OF THE THRESHOLD. + +Robeson Channel, 110; stopped off Cape Beechey, 113; Shift-Rudder Bay, +114; floe-bergs, 114; the first lemming, 115; marine shells above +sea-level, 116; depôt established at Lincoln Bay, 117; a fortunate +escape, 119; crossing the threshold, 119; finally stopped by ice, 121; +the Frozen Ocean, 122. + + CHAPTER XI. FLOE-BERG BEACH. + +Saved by floe-bergs, 125; precarious winter quarters, 126; a +reconnaissance in dog-sledges, 128; habits of Eskimo dogs, 130; +Dumb-bell Bay, 131; eider-ducks, 132; two boats advanced northwards, +133; a severe march, 134; danger of the ship, 134; unable to move, 135; +autumn sledging commenced, 136. + + CHAPTER XII. AUTUMN TRAVELLING. + +Autumn travelling, 138; discomforts, 139; liability to frost-bites, 142; +difficulties, 145; cheerfulness of the men, 146; highest position +reached in the autumn, 147; frost-bites, 147; return of travellers, 149; +results, 150. + + CHAPTER XIII. WINTER QUARTERS. + +Preparations for winter, 152; observatories, 153; snow houses, 154; the +ship "housed" in, 154; interior arrangements, 156; winter clothing, 159; +precautions against fire, 161; observations for temperature, 162. + + CHAPTER XIV. THE ROYAL ARCTIC THEATRE. + +Printing-office, 164; school, 166; amusements, 167; Thursday pops, 168; +lectures, 169; the Royal Arctic Theatre, 170; the prologue, 172; +conjuring entertainment, 175; magic-lantern exhibition, 176. + + CHAPTER XV. WINTER OCCUPATIONS AND AMUSEMENTS. + +Departure of the sun, 178; Guy Fawkes' Day, 179; scientific +observations, 180; the moon, 181; open-air exercise, 181; inconvenience +from drip, 182; fluctuations of temperature, 183; movement of the ice, +184; celebration of birthdays, 185; bill of fare, 185; fresh meat, 186; +Divine service, 187; medical inspections, 187; tabogganing, 187; Nellie, +189; a lost dog, 190. + + CHAPTER XVI. AN ARCTIC CHRISTMAS. + +Preparations for Christmas Day, 193; Christmas presents, 194; Christmas +Day, 195; retrospect, 197; frost-bite patients, 198; precautions against +frost-bite, 199; the Palæocrystic Sea, 200; a brilliant meteor, 200. + + CHAPTER XVII. A HAPPY NEW YEAR. + +New Year's Day, 202; mustard and cress, 205; heavy snow-drifts, 206; +returning light, 207; severe cold, 208; an alarm in the observatory, +209; condition of the Eskimo dogs, 210; Nellie and the lemmings, 212; +Rawson's snow hut, 212; the last school meeting, 213; the last dramatic +performance, 214; the last "pop," 215; grand palæocrystic sledging +chorus, 216. + + CHAPTER XVIII. RETURN OF THE SUN. + +Cairn Hill, 220; the sun's return, 221; intense cold, 223; experiments +on various substances during extreme cold, 223; daylight, 225; alarm of +fire, 226; dismantling the observatories, 227; the sledge-crews +exercised, 228; a wolf, 229. + + CHAPTER XIX. DETAILS OF SLEDGE TRAVELLING. + +Preparations for sledging, 231; weights, 232; auxiliary sledges and +depôts, 234; tents, 235; cooking apparatus, 236; scale of provisions, +237; lime-juice, 238; medical instructions, 238; sledging costume, 239; +precautions against snow-blindness, 240; programme of sledging work, +241; boats to be carried by northern division, 244; names of sledges, +245. + + CHAPTER XX. THE JOURNEY OF EGERTON AND RAWSON. + +Decide to communicate with "Discovery," 247; departure of Egerton and +Rawson, 248; their return, 249; Petersen frost-bitten, 249; heroic +conduct, 251; efforts to save Petersen, 251; difficulties of the return +journey, 253; Egerton's second start, 255; death of Petersen, 255. + + CHAPTER XXI. THE ROUTINE OF SLEDGE TRAVELLING. + +Departure of the sledges, 258; first camp, 260; intense cold, 262; +arrival at the autumn depôt, 263; the parties separate, 264; duties of +cook, 265; sledging breakfast, 266; luncheon, 266; halting for the +night, 268; evenings in the tent, 270. + + CHAPTER XXII. THE NORTHERN DIVISION--TRAVELLING IN APRIL. + +Heavy ice encountered, 273; road-making over the ice, 275; struggling +over hummocks, 278; daily routine, 279; continued cold, 280; excellence +of the sledges, 281; first symptoms of disease, 282; a gale of wind, +283; heavy snow-drifts, 285; disease increasing, 286; excellent conduct +of the men, 286; resolve to abandon one boat, 288; increased weight to +drag, 289; intense cold, 290; state of the floes, 291; cross the 83rd +parallel, 292; enormous hummocks, 293; hummocks and snow-drifts, 294; +tracks of a hare seen, 296; young ice, 296; enforced rest, 297. + + CHAPTER XXIII. THE MOST NORTHERN POINT EVER REACHED BY MAN. + +Scurvy, 299; difficulties increasing, 300; struggling northwards, 301; +hummocks discoloured by mud, 301; condition of party, 303; issue of +lime-juice, 304; scorbutic symptoms, 305; the last advance, 306; most +northern encampment, 307; soundings obtained, 308; the most northern +position ever reached by man, 309. + + CHAPTER XXIV. RETURN OF THE NORTHERN DIVISION. + +Homeward bound, 312; increased sufferings, 314; courage of the men, 316; +extreme weakness of the men, 316; abandonment of the second boat, 318; a +snow-bunting seen, 319; the land reached, 321; Parr despatched for +succour, 322; a stray dog, 322; death of Porter, 323; his burial, 323; +saved, 325; return on board, 326. + + CHAPTER XXV. RETURN OF ALL THE SLEDGE TRAVELLERS. + +Causes of scurvy, 329; anxiety for Aldrich, 331; May sent to his rescue, +331; return of Aldrich, 332; care of the sick, 333; the welcome back, +335; decide to return to England, 337; musk-oxen, 338; shooting parties, +338; liberation of the ship, 341; under weigh, 342. + + CHAPTER XXVI. THE RETURN VOYAGE IN THE ICE. + +Preparations for abandoning ship, 344; communicate with "Discovery," +345; discovery of Eskimo relics, 347; a severe nip, 348; critical +situation of ship, 349; Discovery Harbour, 349; return of Beaumont, 350; +a frozen cave, 350; "Alert" forced on shore, 351; struggles with the +ice, 352; pass Cape Fraser and Dobbin Bay, 353; a seal and fox shot, +354; reach the open sea, 354. + + CHAPTER XXVII. HOMEWARD BOUND. + +Cape Isabella, 357; letters from home, 358; bad weather, 359; Whale +Sound, 359; off Lancaster Sound, 360; reappearance of fulmar petrels, +361; reach Godhavn, 362; receive letters from England, 363; leave +Godhavn, 363; Egedesminde, 364; sight the "Pandora," 366; arrive at +Valentia, 367; at Queenstown, 367; welcome home, 368. + + INDEX _Page_ 371 + + + + +LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. + +FULL-PAGE PLATES. + + + PAGE + "ALERT" AND "DISCOVERY" _Frontispiece_ + POLAR BEARS _To face_ 46 + WINTER QUARTERS H.M.S. "ALERT" 151 + HIGHEST NORTHERN CAMP 308 + REDUCING A FLOE-BERG 349 + H.M.S. "ALERT" FORCED ON SHORE 351 + + +SMALLER WOODCUTS. + + SEALS BASKING ON THE ICE 23 + ESKIMO WOMEN 28 + WALRUSES 75 + CAPE HAWKS 84 + PLAN OF ICE DOCK 88 + "THE MOANING OF THE TIED" 89 + MUSK OXEN 105 + KNOTS 111 + DOG-SLEDGE IN DIFFICULTIES 131 + START OF THE AUTUMN SLEDGES 143 + DIAGRAM OF MAGNETIC OBSERVATORIES 153 + FLAG-STAFF POINT (CAPE SHERIDAN) 155 + ROYAL ARCTIC THEATRE--SCENE FROM "ALADDIN + AND THE WONDERFUL SCAMP" 170 + NELLIE 189 + LEMMINGS 212 + CAIRN HILL 220 + SLEDGE UNDER SAIL 231 + DOGS AND SLEDGE 247 + GETTING READY TO "BAG" 269 + CHART OF OUTWARD AND RETURN TRACKS 274 + INTERIOR OF TENT 280 + A PACKED SLEDGE 281 + SNOW-BUNTING 319 + BRENT-GOOSE AND EIDER-DUCKS 340 + ALLMAN BAY 355 + FULMAR PETRELS ("MOLLIES") 361 + FAREWELL! 369 + + * * * * * + + MAP SHOWING THE DISCOVERIES OF THE ARCTIC + EXPEDITION, 1875-6 _To face_ 1 + + +[Illustration: ARCTIC EXPEDITION 1875-76.] + + +THE GREAT FROZEN SEA. + + + + +CHAPTER I. + +FITTING OUT. + + + "Vitailled was the shippe, it is no drede, + Habundantly for hire a ful long space: + And other necessaries that shuld nede + She had ynow, heried be Godde's grace: + For wind and weather, Almighty God purchace, + And bring hire home, I can no better say + But in the see she driveth forth hire way." + + CHAUCER (_Man of Lawe's Tale_). + +The above quaint lines, written five hundred years ago, well describe +the scenes that were being enacted during the months of April and May, +1875, in Portsmouth Dockyard. + +Busy as this great naval depôt of England almost always is, it is +seldom, in peace time, that so much interest is shown in the equipment +of two small steam-vessels as was the case with regard to those that +were then lying "all a taunto" in the steam basin of that extensive +yard. + +The names of those comparatively small ships were the "Alert" and the +"Discovery," their destination the unknown North. + +Although of insignificant size, in comparison with the huge ironclad +monsters by which they were surrounded, yet a close observer would +readily detect signs of great strength in these two business-like +looking vessels. And very necessary was it that they should possess +strength and powers of resistance of no ordinary kind, for they were +destined to grapple and fight with the heavy and unyielding ice floes of +the Polar Ocean. + +The two ships had been very carefully selected and fitted for the +important work in which they were about to engage. The "Alert" was a +17-gun sloop, and had already served two or three commissions on foreign +stations before she was converted for Arctic service. The "Discovery" +was built in Dundee for the whaling and sealing trade, in which she had +been engaged for a short time off the coast of Newfoundland, before she +was purchased for the Arctic expedition. + +The "Alert" was thoroughly strengthened, and, under the supervision of +the Admiral Superintendent of the Dockyard (Sir Leopold McClintock), +adapted in every way for the hazardous service on which she was about to +be employed. + +After a complete overhaul of her hull, all defective timbers and beams +were removed, and replaced by sound ones; extra beam power was +introduced; an external sheathing of seven inches of teak, tapering from +amidships to four inches forward and three inches aft, extending from +the keel to the waterways, was put on; whilst a longitudinal beam, +placed between the shelf-piece and the lower-deck waterway internally, +bound and strapped the whole ship together. Extra iron knees were +introduced in order more effectually to resist the enormous pressure of +the ice; and the stem was fortified outside with half-inch iron plates +extending to about ten or twelve feet aft, whilst inside the bow was +strengthened by numerous diagonal beams and dead-wood. + +Between the inside planking and the lining were placed sheets of felt +for the promotion of warmth. New waterways, of a most substantial form, +were added; and the ship was divided into watertight compartments. + +Two large davits projected over each quarter of the vessel, by the aid +of which the rudder, some three tons weight, was easily shipped and +unshipped when in danger of being damaged by the ice. On these occasions +it would be suspended horizontally over the stern from the davits. + +Around the galley-funnel was an ingenious contrivance for making water, +consisting of a large reservoir to receive either snow or ice; this, +being dissolved by the heat from the fire underneath, is drawn off +through a tap at the bottom, thus providing our water supply. Like all +vessels employed in the whaling trade, both ships were fitted with +Pinkey and Collins' patent reefing and furling topsails; and each +possessed a steam-winch on the upper deck, capable of being utilized for +many purposes. + +At the maintop-gallant-mast-head of each vessel was a large barrel-like +object. This was the crow's nest, a very necessary item on board all +ships destined to navigate the icy seas. Both ships were barque-rigged, +and were supplied with the ordinary contrivances used on board +short-handed merchant vessels to facilitate the work. + +They formed, indeed, a curious contrast to the heavily rigged but trim +men-of-war, which, with their tapering spars and faultlessly squared +yards, lay in the harbour near them. + +Each vessel was supplied with nine boats of various shapes and sizes, +specially designed and constructed for the service peculiar to Arctic +waters. Two of these were completely equipped for whaling, so as to be +able to follow and capture walruses and narwhals. They were both fitted +with harpoon-guns fixed on swivels in the bows. The ice-boats were three +in number for each ship, and were built as light as it was possible to +make them. Paddles were supplied, by which they could be propelled, as +well as oars. They were all carvel-built boats, and the bows of each +were armed with a broad sheet of copper as a protection from the ice. + +The figure-heads of each ship, like their fittings, were exactly +similar. They were what are commonly called "fiddle-heads," having the +Union Jack painted on them, and underneath the word _Ubique_; and to no +flag can that word be more truly and more appropriately applied. +_Everywhere_ is it to be found, even beyond the limits of the abode of +man! + +The clothing and provisions supplied to the ships were in a great +measure regulated according to the establishments by which preceding +expeditions had been fitted out, and were almost identical in texture +and quality. + +Great care was taken in the selection of both officers and men, and none +were appointed until they had undergone a searching medical examination +as to their fitness for Arctic service, several being rejected who had +the appearance of being fine and eligible young fellows. The slightest +defect, such as bad teeth or old wounds, was a sufficient pretext for +refusing the services of otherwise apparently strong and healthy men. +Numerous were the volunteers that came forward, rendering the task of +selecting a few from the number of eager willing men that presented +themselves one of no little difficulty. + +Their social and moral qualifications were as strictly inquired into as +was their physical condition; and men of a happy and genial disposition +were selected in preference to others who appeared morose and taciturn. + +"Can you sing or dance? or what can you do for the amusement of others?" +were questions invariably addressed to candidates for Arctic service by +the board of officers appointed to select from the numerous applicants +who presented themselves. + +The ray of pleasure that lighted up the faces of those individuals who +were informed that they were to be of that small chosen band, indicated +most clearly the popularity of the enterprize amongst the men of the +Royal Navy; whilst the disappointed ones, and they were many, showed +only too plainly the mortification they experienced at being rejected. +As an instance of the eagerness evinced by the men to be employed in the +expedition, a gallant captain commanding a ship at Portsmouth called at +the office where the men were being entered, and requested advice. He +said, "An order has come on board my ship, directing me to send +volunteers for Arctic service to this office. What am I to do? The whole +ship's company, nearly eight hundred men, have given in their names!" + +This is merely mentioned in order to show the amount of interest taken +by the whole navy in the cause for which the ships were being equipped. + +The ships' companies being completed, officers and men were +unremittingly engaged in the various duties incidental to fitting out. +Provisions and stores, sufficient to last for three years, had to be +received on board and stowed away. There was no waste space on board +either vessel. Every little nook and corner was destined to be the +receptacle of some important article. The ships gradually settled down +in the water as the weights on board accumulated, until they appeared to +be alarmingly deep, whilst much yet remained unstowed. The Admiralty +had, however, provided for this emergency. The "Valorous," an old +paddle-wheel sloop of good carrying capabilities, was ordered to convey +all surplus stores, that could not be stowed on board the two exploring +vessels, as far as the island of Disco, on the west coast of Greenland. + +This was a very wise and necessary precaution, as it would be obviously +unsafe to cross the Atlantic in boisterous weather, laden as the two +ships undoubtedly would have been if they had received no assistance +from a third vessel in the conveyance of their stores. + +Through the kindness and generosity of our friends, and of those who +more especially interested themselves in the progress of Arctic +discovery, we received many useful and valuable gifts. Her Majesty and +the members of the Royal Family testified, in a substantial manner, the +deep interest they took in the enterprize. The name of her Imperial +Majesty the Empress Eugénie must always be associated with the +expedition as one of its warmest friends. Her kind and considerate +present, consisting of a fine woollen cap for each individual, +contributed materially to our comfort whilst engaged in the onerous +duties of sledging. + +To mention the names of all our generous benefactors would require a +chapter to itself. Books, magic lanterns, a piano, pictures, and money +came pouring in from all sides; but smaller and less valuable, though +not the less appreciated, gifts were also received. A small case, with +the superscription, "A Christmas box for my friends on board the +'Alert,'" and containing four bottles of excellent punch, and a little +parcel of well-thumbed books and periodicals, showing undoubted signs of +having been well perused, but which came with the "best wishes of a +warrant officer, himself an old Arctic explorer," were accepted with as +much pleasure and gratitude as were the more costly presents. + +Games of all descriptions, to while away the long evenings of a dark and +monotonous winter, were purchased; whilst a complete set of instruments +for a drum-and-fife band was also added to the long list of our +necessaries. + +In devoting a certain sum of money to the purchase of musical +instruments and games, wherewithal to amuse ourselves, we were only +following an example set us many years ago; for when Sir Humphrey +Gilbert sailed in 1583, for the purpose of discovering new lands, and +planting Christian colonies upon those large and ample countries +extending northward from Florida, we read that, "for the solace of our +people, and allurement of the savages, we were provided of musicke in +good varietie; not omitting the least toyes, as morris dancers, hobby +horses, and many like conceits, to delight the savage people, whom we +intended to winne by all faire meanes possible." + +We also hear, when that brave old navigator John Davis undertook his +first voyage in 1585, with his two frail little barks, the "Sunneshine" +and the "Mooneshine," that in the first-named vessel were twenty-three +persons, of whom four were musicians--a large band in proportion to the +complement of officers and men. + +In spite of the bustle and confusion that are inseparable from the +preparation of such an expedition, in spite of fresh paint and tarry +ropes, several thousands of visitors came on board before sailing, to +the no small hindrance of the work; but it is feared that many others, +owing to the stringent regulations that it was necessary to issue in +order to have the vessels ready by the appointed time, were compelled to +return to their homes without having the satisfaction of saying that +they had been on board the Polar ships. Amongst those who honoured the +vessels with a visit were his Royal Highness the Prince of Wales, his +Royal Highness the Duke of Edinburgh, and her Imperial Majesty the +Empress Eugénie. + +The entertainments given in our honour were very numerous; many were +almost regarded as _farewell_ banquets. + +We were looked upon as public property; our hospitable countrymen, in +the generosity of their hearts, never thinking that we should like to +spend our last few days in England in peace and quietness amongst our +own friends, wished to feed us on the fat of the land, and send us to +sea suffering from that worst of all complaints, dyspepsia, accompanied +perhaps by _mal de mer_. + +At length all preparations were completed. The day originally assigned +for the sailing of the expedition, the 29th of May, dawned grey and +misty, with dashes of rain falling and lying in little pools on our +freshly painted deck. During the forenoon we were honoured by a visit +from the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, who came to bid us +farewell and success on our mission. This was the last official visit +paid to the vessels. At its termination officers and men were left +pretty much to themselves, so that their last few hours in England might +be spent with their own relatives. Four o'clock in the afternoon was the +hour named for the departure of the ships, and punctual to the very +minute they cast off from the dockyard jetty. The last embrace had been +taken, the last fervent farewell had been wished, and, a good omen for +the coming voyage, as the vessels steamed out of Portsmouth Harbour, all +clouds cleared away, and the sun shone out bright and joyous. During the +day crowds had been flocking from all parts of England in order to add +their voices to those of other well-wishers to the enterprize. Seldom +before in that famous seaport town, although the centre of many stirring +events, had such a scene been witnessed. Thousands of spectators were +congregated along the sea-face extending from the dockyard to Southsea +Castle, and on the opposite shore of Gosport, to witness our departure; +and cheer after cheer pealed forth from the assembled multitude as we +slowly threaded our way amongst the numerous yachts and pleasure boats +that had collected to bid us Godspeed. A small thin line of red, hardly +to be distinguished amidst the more sombre hue of the holiday seekers' +dresses, denoted the troops of the garrison drawn up to do honour to +their comrades of the sister service, whilst their bands, breaking forth +with the soul-stirring strains of "Auld lang syne," found an echo in the +hearts of all connected with the expedition. + +It was, indeed, a proud moment for us as we witnessed this unmistakeable +demonstration, and felt that we, a small but chosen band, had been +selected to carry out a national enterprize of such importance. + +If anything was required to assure us of the popularity of our +undertaking, the spectacle that afternoon on Southsea Common was surely +a convincing proof. + +There was but one responsive feeling in the hearts of every member of +the expedition, namely, a determination to deserve this confidence, and +to achieve, with God's help, such a measure of success as would prove +satisfactory to the country and creditable to the navy. + +It will be long before that scene is effaced from our memories. Our last +view of Portsmouth was across a bright blue sea to a shore thronged with +an enthusiastic and cheering crowd waving a last farewell; whilst the +last glimpse our friends had of us was across the same blue sparkling +sea, the snow-white sails of our ships being lit up by the rays of the +setting sun. + +Our feelings appeared to be reflected in the changes of the weather on +that, to us, memorable day. The rain and mist in the morning were +emblematical of the sorrow of parting; while when the sun burst forth +bright and joyous in the afternoon, we all felt assured that the work on +which we were about to be employed would be achieved, and that the +enterprize commenced under such bright auspices would terminate as well +and happily. + +Nothing occurred to mar the departure; one incident only happened that +might have terminated disastrously and thrown a gloom over the little +squadron. Immediately after the pilot had been discharged, one of the +men of the "Alert," in the excitement and ardour of responding to the +cheers with which we were on all sides greeted, lost his balance in the +rigging and fell overboard. He was, however, quickly picked up and +brought on board none the worse for his immersion, although the +consternation excited by this mishap to a boatload of men and women, who +happened to witness the accident, nearly resulted in fatal consequences. +The half-drowned and thoroughly drenched man being restored to his +shipmates, the squadron having been joined at Spithead by the +"Valorous," rounded the Nab-light vessel, and before a fine fresh +north-easterly breeze spread their sails and steered down channel. + +For many hours, however, they were escorted by a little yacht containing +the relatives of some few of the officers of the expedition, which +following in their wake reluctantly parted only when all further +communication was impracticable. + +This, and a visit we received on the following morning from the brave +old admiral, the Commander-in-chief at Plymouth, when passing the port, +was the last sight of friends we were destined to enjoy for many a long +month. + +We all felt that we had bidden them a long farewell, and from +thenceforth, as far as they were concerned, we could only live in the +happy memories of the past, buoyed up by hopes and aspirations as to the +future. + +Experiencing fine weather, the anchors were dropped on the third day in +the snug little harbour of Berehaven, in Bantry Bay. The object of this +visit was to obtain our last supply of fresh meat, and our last budget +of letters from home. A farewell ramble on shore amongst green fields +and picturesque little farmhouses, where we were regaled with delicious +fresh milk, was also enjoyed, and a visit paid to some Druidical remains +near the long straggling village of Castletown. + +And here, amongst the long green grass and by the side of clear rippling +rivulets, we gathered the last flowers of spring that would gladden our +eyes until after our return to our native shore. Carefully were these +floral treasures hoarded until an opportunity offered of transmitting +them to dear friends at home. It is related of one officer, who was so +fortunate as to gather several sprigs of "forget-me-not," and whose home +ties were, perhaps, not so attractive as those of others, that he +offered to barter small tufts of this precious little plant for a bottle +of beer, or a pot of cocoa and milk, the two latter articles being +excessively scarce on board the Arctic ships, and proportionately +valuable. + +On the 2nd of June, the day following their arrival, the little squadron +once more put to sea. From that date the receipt of all letters ceased. +No more telegrams; no loving missives; all intelligence from home must +come to an end. We could live only for the future, and pray for a happy +and speedy return. Before nightfall the high and rugged coast of +Ireland had sunk below the eastern horizon, leaving nothing visible on +the apparently boundless ocean but our three ships as they were lazily +rocked by the long rolling swell of the broad Atlantic. + + "The vessel gently made her liquid way; + The cloven billows flashed from off her prow, + In furrows formed by that majestic plough; + The waters with their world were all before." + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +THE VOYAGE TO DISCO. + + + "Now from the sight of land, our galleys move; + With only seas around, and skies above. + When o'er our heads descends a cloud of rain, + And night with sable clouds involves the main, + The ruffling winds the foaming billows raise, + The scattered fleet is forced to several ways. + . . . . . . . . . . And from our shrouds + We view a rising land like distant clouds, + The mountain tops confirm the pleasing sight." + + VIRGIL. + +The next morning we found that on leaving England we had also left +behind bright sunshine and blue skies, and in their place gloomy grey +clouds were spread over us, while rain fell sullenly through the murky +air. This, with head winds, was our normal condition for many days. +Steam was occasionally raised during any lengthened periods of calm; but +the report from the engineer that steam was ready was, as a rule, +followed by a report from deck that a breeze was springing up, but +invariably from an adverse quarter. + +On the 5th of June, in order to expedite our movements, the "Valorous" +received permission to ignore the presence of a senior officer and make +the best of her way to Disco; the "Alert" and "Discovery" continuing +their course together. + +We were not many days together at sea before we discovered the good +qualities of our ship's company. There was a willingness about them that +could not fail to be appreciated, whilst the thorough good feeling that +seemed to exist was highly satisfactory. As a proof of the desire of +each one to assist his neighbour, it may not be out of place to mention +that the petty officers of the "Alert," a day or two after leaving +harbour, requested permission to take turns with the able seamen in +steering the ship, a duty from which, by their position, they are +usually exempt. It need hardly be said their wish was immediately +gratified. + +During the passage our medical staff was busily engaged in ascertaining +the physical capacities of every individual member of the expedition. +These experiments were by some jokingly resented as an unauthorized +system of mental and bodily torture. Every one's age was carefully +noted; height and weight accurately ascertained; dimensions round the +chest measured; and by means of an instrument called a spirometer the +capacity of the chest was also obtained; a clinical thermometer was +inserted into the mouth and kept there for an apparently interminable +time for the purpose of ascertaining the temperature of the blood. The +treatment we were subjected to in the cause of science was thus +described by one whose acquaintance with the Royal Navy was only of a +few days' standing: "I was unceremoniously laid hold of and measured, +forced into a chair and weighed, was compelled to answer the most +impertinent questions regarding my age and connections; a horrid +instrument was kept in my mouth for an hour or more, and I was forced to +blow into a machine until not a breath of wind was left in my body!" +The results of all these experiments were duly registered, the intention +being to compare them with a similar examination on the return of the +expedition, in order to ascertain the effects of an Arctic life upon the +physical development of our bodies. + +The appetites of the officers, rendered doubly keen by the fresh sea +air, were so inordinate as to cause serious anxiety in the mind of our +worthy caterer, who was fearful that the allowance of provisions would +never last the specified time, at the rate they were then being +consumed. + +From the fifth day after leaving port lime juice was regularly issued to +every officer and man in the expedition. Being considered an +indispensable antiscorbutic, it was essential that precautions should be +adopted to ensure the certainty of each man drinking it daily. It was +therefore the practice to serve it out on the quarter-deck every +forenoon in the presence of an officer. This was never omitted during +the whole period that our expedition was absent from England. With one +or two exceptions the lime juice was drunk with pleasure by the men, and +the exceptions were gradually educated, by taking it in small +quantities, until their dislike was cured. + +In consequence of the limited stowage capacity on board, the officers +were unable to provide themselves with a large stock of beer. A +considerable quantity of wine and spirits, however, was laid in; but as +an anticipated absence of three years had to be provided for, we were +restricted to an allowance of two glasses of sherry per diem, a glass of +port or madeira once a week, and a bottle of brandy or whiskey about +every fourteen or fifteen days. On birthdays or fête days we were also +indulged in a glass of port wine after dinner. + +Ten hogsheads of Allsopp's ale, brewed especially for the Arctic +Expedition, were provided by Government and formed part of the ship's +stores. It was grand stuff--"strong enough," as one of the men observed, +"to make our hair curl!" + +We were not destined to enjoy fine weather long, and our passage across +the Atlantic was by no means a pleasant or a comfortable one. Gale +followed after gale. If they had only blown from the right quarter we +should have been happy, but we had no such luck, they were sure to come +ahead! + +What a lively ship was the "Alert"! making it utterly impossible to keep +anything in its place. It was decidedly annoying, one day, when I +entered my cabin to find my nice smart crimson table-cloth drenched with +ink; but it was no use repining, and I could only exclaim, with Lord +Dorset-- + + "Our paper, pens, and ink, and we, + Are tumbled up and down at sea." + +Liveliness was not her only peculiarity, she was likewise excessively +wet, and although battened down carefully it was impossible to keep the +water from going below. To those who are uninitiated in nautical terms +it must be explained that "battening down" means the careful closing and +covering with a tarpaulin of every skylight and hatchway, in order to +prevent the water from finding its way below. In spite, however, of +these precautions, it is excessively difficult to keep the lower deck of +a small ship dry during heavy weather. + +On the 13th it was blowing furiously with a terrific sea, and we were +compelled to "lay-to" under very reduced canvas. During the night a +large steamer, supposed to be bound for Quebec, passed close to us, so +close indeed that we were compelled to burn blue lights in order to +denote our position, so as to avoid collision. + +On the same night a heavy sea struck us, and washed away our starboard +whale boat. Our consort also suffered the same loss. Nearly all our +fowls, which were in hen-coops on the upper deck, were drowned; only two +escaping! Fresh meat being scarce the manner of their death did not +prevent their appearance on our table for some days. This gale had the +effect of dispersing our little squadron, nor did we again assemble +together until our arrival at Disco. + +No sooner had we recovered from the effects of one gale, than we were +assailed by another. Our only consolation was, the very poor one of +trying to believe that these storms would eventually be the means of +assisting us in our passage through Melville Bay, by breaking up the ice +and blowing it out of Davis Straits! + +The discomforts entailed by the perpetual bad weather did not in any way +check the ardour of some of the officers in their praiseworthy +endeavours to add to the scientific collections of the expedition. It is +related, but I will not vouch for the authenticity of the story, that on +one occasion, when the ship was labouring heavily, a huge sea washed on +board, finding its way down through the skylight into the ward-room, +where it splashed about from side to side with every roll of the ship. +An officer, a most zealous and enthusiastic collector in all branches +of natural history, being in bed at the time, thought that he detected +by the dim light of a lantern some interesting, and perhaps unknown, +specimens of zoology in the water. His landing net was immediately +called into requisition, and, from his bed, he succeeded in fishing up +some of these supposed wonderful organisms. The microscope was instantly +produced for the purpose of ascertaining the nature of his find, when, +to his great disappointment, he discovered they were simply grains of +buckwheat--part of the stock that had been laid in for our unfortunate +fowls! + +Our progress was tardy. On more than one occasion we were actually +farther off Cape Farewell, the point of land we were striving to make, +than on the day previous! + +As we approached Davis Straits, speculations were rife as to when and +where we should meet our first ice. The greatest eagerness was shown by +all on board to become acquainted with the enemy whose fastnesses we +were preparing to attack and from which we hoped to return victorious. + +On the 25th of June, being still at some distance to the southward of +Cape Farewell, a vessel was sighted steering in the opposite direction +to ourselves. We passed at too great a distance to avail ourselves of +such a favourable opportunity of sending letters to England, though +there were many on board who showed an intense anxiety to communicate. +We suspected, and our reasoning proved correct, that this would be the +last vessel we should see for many a long day, and she was consequently +watched with a great deal of interest. She was, in all probability, a +homeward bound Peterhead vessel laden with _cryolite_. The cryolite is +a rare mineral and the sole one which has become an article of trade in +Greenland. It is found only in one single spot called Ivigtut in 61° 10´ +N., imbedded like a massive body in the granitic rock, and not in veins +or strata. In 1857 a licence was granted to a private company for +working the cryolite, and in the first nine years 14,000 tons were +exported in 80 ship-loads. During the next nine years the total export +amounted to 70,000 tons. Cryolite is converted by a chemical process +into soda and an alumina unequalled as regards purity and fitness for +the art of dyeing.[1] + +As we neared the waters of Davis Straits, whales were observed in great +numbers. They were principally what are called by the whalers +"bottle-noses." This species of cetacean is the _Hyperoodon rostratus_, +and is from twenty to twenty-six feet long, with teeth in the lower jaw. +The "bottle-noses" are seldom sought and captured by the whalers owing +to the small amount of oil that they yield, not more than a few +hundred-weight of blubber being derived from each one of this species. A +dead whale of the "right" or "Greenland" sort was also passed. What a +prize for a whaler this would have been; worth about £1,000! but of no +value whatever to us, so it was allowed to float by untouched. How the +mouths of our ice quarter-masters, all hailing from those essentially +whaling ports Dundee and Peterhead, watered as they beheld what by them +would have undoubtedly been considered a god-send! The evident look of +wonder, not unmixed with contempt, that showed itself upon their +countenances was truly ludicrous when they found that we were about to +pass so valuable a prize unheeded. This fish--for all "right" whales +(_Balæna mysticetus_) are denominated "fish" by those engaged in their +capture--had probably been struck by some whaler and, having succeeded +in evading its persecutors, had since died of its wounds; or else it had +been killed by the inveterate enemy of the whale the _Orca gladiator_, +or "grampus," sometimes called "sword-fish," which pursues and harasses +these harmless unoffending leviathans of the deep whenever opportunities +offer. The rorqual, or "finner" (_Physalus antiquorum_), was also seen; +it is easily distinguished from the right whale by the dorsal fin +peculiar to this cetacean, and from which it derives its name. The +rorquals are seldom captured, great difficulty being experienced in +killing these huge monsters, which are frequently known to measure as +much as ninety feet in length. Scoresby mentions one measuring one +hundred and twenty feet. Great as is their size, however, the amount of +blubber to be obtained from them is very insignificant. They feed upon +cod-fish (as many as eight or nine hundred have been found in the +stomach of one of these whales) and are constantly seen off the south +and west coast of Greenland. + +A falling temperature on the 27th of June, and a peculiar light blink +along the horizon, gave us due notice of the immediate proximity of ice. +As the weather was thick and foggy extra precautions were adopted in +order to guard against coming into serious collision with any icebergs, +for, however beautiful these floating islands of ice may be during +bright clear weather, they are dangerous and formidable foes when near +and unseen. + +True to the warning received, an iceberg was shortly afterwards +sighted, and by 4 P.M. the ship was steaming through loose detached +fragments of heavy floe ice. + +It is impossible to describe the excitement that prevailed on board on +this first introduction of many among us to that icy world in which we +afterwards lived for fifteen months. To me it gave rise to reminiscences +of old times, but to the uninitiated it was an exciting scene, and was +gazed upon with intense interest. + +The officer of the watch, desirous of having the honour of making the +ship first touch ice, and being also under the impression that a reward +of a bottle of champagne would be given to him who should first succeed +in doing so, steered straight for a heavy piece nearly submerged. His +efforts were crowned with success, but they were also accompanied by a +gentle admonition that for the future he should be a little more careful +of her Majesty's property, and avoid all such fragments as were likely +to knock a hole in the bows of the ship. + +On the following morning we sighted the high, bold, and snow-capped +hills in the neighbourhood of Cape Desolation. This headland was so +called by that sturdy navigator, brave old John Davis, during his first +voyage of discovery in the year 1585. In his quaint manner he describes +"the land being very high and full of mightie mountaines all covered +with snowe, no viewe of wood, grasse, or earth to be seene, and the +shore for two leages into the sea so full of yce as that no shipping +cold by any meanes come neere the same. The lothsome viewe of the shore, +and irksome noyse of the yce was such as that it bred strange conceipts +among us, so that we supposed the place to be wast and voyd of any +sencible or vegitable creatures, whereupon I called the same +Desolation." + +Icebergs were now constantly seen, some being of very considerable +dimensions, and looming in the distance like real islands. As one of our +men wittily remarked on seeing his first iceberg, it reminded him +strongly of the Isle of Wight (white)!! + +The streams of ice through which the vessel was navigated were composed +of fragments of heavy pack ice, that had in all probability drifted down +the east coast of Greenland, and had been swept round Cape Farewell. +They were of very deep flotation, and great care had to be taken in +steering the ship through, so as to avoid striking these pieces more +than was absolutely necessary; so heavily laden was the ship, that the +force of the blows in some instances was very seriously felt. + +[Illustration: SEALS BASKING ON THE ICE.] + +Seals were seen basking lazily and dreamily on the ice, or following in +our wake, staring inquisitively at us with their large round eyes, +looking for all the world like human beings. The fabulous merman and +mermaiden seemed to us easily accounted for. The seals observed were of +two descriptions--namely, the _Pagomys foetidus_, or "floe-rat;" and the +_Pagophilus Groenlandicus_, the "saddle-back," or common Greenland seal. + +Birds, common to these regions, hovered around, following us for days +together and breaking the solitude that surrounded us with their joyous +and gladsome presence. + +The 1st of July was a beautiful, bright, clear, sunny day, and to us was +doubly welcome after the continuous bad weather which until now had been +our lot. Not a ripple disturbed the calm surface of the sea as it lay +blue and gleaming in the sunshine. Here and there a few small patches of +ice reminded us of our proximity to the Arctic circle, while a certain +sharp-bracing crispness in the air, together with a rather low +temperature, served to assure us that the high snow-covered land in the +distance was in reality "Greenland's icy mountains"--no hymnal myth as +supposed by many, but grand ranges, devoid of all verdure, wrapped in +their snowy mantle, and rising to an altitude of from two to three +thousand feet above the level of the sea, a majestic and sublime +reality. + +By noon we were off the little Danish settlement of Fiskernaes, and +shortly afterwards passed that of Godthaab, but at too great a distance +to make out the buildings or any signs of inhabitants. It was at +Godthaab that Hans Egede landed on July 3rd, 1721, with his wife and +children, and commenced his noble and disinterested labour of love among +the Eskimos. The missionary institutions founded by Hans Egede and the +Moravians have gradually incorporated the whole population of Greenland +into Christian communities. + +The appearance of this part of the coast of Greenland was very striking, +especially to those who were strangers to Arctic scenery. The mountains, +with their peaks so pointed as scarcely to admit of the snow resting on +their steep and almost precipitous sides, intersected by grand fiords +and gorges penetrating for miles into the interior, formed a magnificent +landscape. + +To the great relief and joy of all, we were on this day rejoined by our +consort the "Discovery," who, like ourselves, had been roughly handled +by the tempestuous weather since we lost sight of her in the Atlantic. + +Expecting to pass over the "Torske" banks, the dredge was prepared, and +fishing lines served out; every one busy stretching and fitting their +lines, and smacking their lips over an anticipated dinner of fresh cod +and halibut. Soundings in thirty fathoms having been obtained on one of +these banks, the ship was stopped and permission given to fish. +Immediately fifty or sixty fishing lines were over the side; but, +although our eager fishermen persevered for a couple of hours, no +capture rewarded their patience. The "wily cod" remained sullen at the +bottom, and could not even be induced to "nibble." + +The dredge was also put over, and hauled in with unimportant results, +only a few echinoderms being obtained. + +During the night an iceberg of curious shape was passed. When first seen +it was reported as a sail; on approaching it a little nearer it assumed +the appearance of a huge column-shaped basaltic rock, and then that of +a lighthouse; for some time it was really believed to be the former. + +On the 4th of July the Arctic circle was crossed. From this date, for +some weeks, we were to have continuous day. The nights had for some time +past been getting gradually shorter: now they had ceased +altogether--candles and lamps were no longer necessary, bright sunlight +reigned paramount. + +Two days afterwards the expedition was safely anchored in the bay of +Lievely, off the little Danish settlement of Godhavn. Although small, it +is the most important establishment in the Inspectorate of North +Greenland, for here resides the Royal Inspector, who controls, with +absolute authority, the large mixed population of Danes and Eskimos who +inhabit this the most northern civilized land in the world. + +A salute of nine guns, from a small battery of three diminutive +specimens of ordnance, welcomed our arrival, the smoke from which had +scarcely blown away before Mr. Krarup Smith, the Inspector, came on +board, anxious to offer assistance, and desirous of extending the +hospitalities of his house to the members of the expedition. + +Nothing could be more kind than the reception accorded us by the +inhabitants of this little settlement. Their sole desire was to please +and aid us in every way, and we were soon firm and fast friends with the +innocent and simple-minded residents. + + +FOOTNOTE: + + [1] See Dr. Rink's "Greenland," p. 79. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +THE GREENLAND SETTLEMENTS. + + + "Behold I see the haven nigh at hand, + To which I meane my wearie course to bend; + Vere the maine shete and beare up with the land, + The which afore is fayrly to be kend, + And seemeth safe from stormes that may offend." + + SPENSER. + +It was with a very pleasing sensation of relief that we found the ship +once more at rest, after thirty-four days of such knocking about as is +seldom experienced at sea for so long a time without a break. The +rolling and pitching to which a small ship is subjected in a heavy sea +are never altogether agreeable, and the quiet and repose of a snug +well-protected harbour are welcomed even by the "veriest old sea-dog." +But, although free from the turmoil of the "angry waste of waters," our +short stay at Godhavn can scarcely be called a period of rest. Much had +to be done, coals had to be taken on board, and a nondescript quantity +of stores and provisions received from the "Valorous" and stowed away. + +The days were long, however. We had arrived in the region where the +midnight sun shone almost as brightly and gave as much light as at +noonday; and if, in consequence, the men were kept longer at work than +they otherwise would have been, they felt themselves amply compensated +for their extra labour by the indulgence of a run on shore in the +evening, and an open-air dance with the dusky and light-hearted beauties +of the land. + +[Illustration: ESKIMO WOMEN.] + +Never did the deck of a man-of-war present such an untidy and confused +appearance as ours did after receiving the last cask from the +"Valorous." Casks and cases lay higgledy-piggledy amongst coals and +ropes. Such a scene as our upper deck presented would have been +sufficient to drive a smart first lieutenant distracted. We were, +however, all much too practical to think of appearances, our sole +thought was to be provided with enough of everything to guard against +all accidents. Between decks was a repetition of the scene above, and it +was with the greatest difficulty we could move from one part of the ship +to the other. To add to the pleasing state of the vessel twenty-four +Eskimo dogs--the number was afterwards augmented to thirty--were +received on board, to be used in our sledging operations. Such a howling +lot! No sooner did they arrive than a regular battle ensued, and we were +compelled for some days to tie up a few of the most pugnacious, in order +to secure anything like peace. + +This state of affairs, namely, the incessant fighting and squabbling +amongst the dogs, continued until one had gained the acknowledged +supremacy by thrashing the whole pack. This happens in all +well-regulated dog communities. The conqueror is henceforth styled the +"king" dog; he rules his subjects with despotic sway, frequently +settling a quarrel between a couple of pugilistic disputants, reserving +for himself the best of everything in the shape of food, the other dogs +yielding their tit-bits with cringing servility, exerting a complete +mastery over his canine subjects, and exacting from them the most abject +homage. The dogs were kept as much as possible in the fore part of the +ship, and soon became great favourites with the men. + +To take charge of this unruly pack, we obtained the services, through +the kindness and assistance of Mr. Krarup Smith, the Inspector, of a +native Eskimo, who with his gun and kayak was duly installed on board in +the capacity of dog-driver and interpreter. He rejoiced in the name of +Frederic, and had the reputation of being a keen and successful hunter. +Although he could not boast of good looks, his bright cheerful face and +unvarying good temper soon made him a friend to all on board. + +The novelty of a never-ending day, for the first time experienced by so +many in the expedition, sadly interfered with the natural time for rest +and sleep. Long past midnight would the sounds of music and mirth be +heard from the shore, as the dances were kept up with unabated vigour; +while shrieks of laughter and merriment would be heard afloat, as the +officers, indulging in aquatic tastes, would be seen rowing races in +small collapsible boats, or trying their skill for the first time in the +frail kayak. For the management of these latter fairy-like canoes great +caution is required--indeed, it is hardly possible to manage them +without much practice. + +Our first lieutenant was, however, an exception to this rule, for owing +to experience acquired in canoes in various parts of the world, he +succeeded in the management of the kayak so admirably as to excite the +surprise and admiration of the natives. W----, another of our officers, +not to be outdone by his mess-mate, also tried his skill in one of these +little barks, but he had not paddled many yards before it capsized, +leaving him head down in the water, with his legs firmly jammed in the +boat. He would undoubtedly have been drowned before assistance could +arrive had he not shown a wonderful degree of presence of mind. So +securely was he fixed in his kayak, that it was only by unbuttoning his +braces and getting out of his trousers that he succeeded in extricating +himself from his dangerous predicament, leaving that article of dress +inside the kayak! + +In spite of the multifarious duties connected with the ship, which kept +every one fully occupied, the pursuit of science was not neglected. +Several complete series of observations were obtained for the +determination of the magnetic force. Photographs were taken, and +geological and botanical collections were extensively made, whilst a +boat with the first lieutenant and our energetic naturalist proceeded +some little distance up the coast to a place called Ovifak for the +purpose of obtaining information regarding some "meteorites" reported to +have fallen there. + +The desire of "stretching one's legs" after being cooped up on board +ship for so long was universally felt, and officers and men alike +enjoyed a scramble over the lofty volcanic cliffs which overlie the +gneiss in this part of the island of Disco. + +The difficulty of the ascent of the Lyngenmarkfjeld, a range of hills +about two thousand feet in height, situated on the northern side of the +harbour, was amply compensated for by the view from its summit. Landing +in a pretty little bay, in which lay the remains of an old steam whaler, +the "Wildfire," that had fallen a victim to the ice some years ago, and +emerging from the rather dense, though stunted, vegetation that grows +luxuriantly at the base of these hills, the way led over precipitous +basaltic cliffs, until by dint of hard climbing the snow-clad heights +were reached. + +The accomplishment of this task, however, was both arduous and perilous, +in consequence of the action of the frost on the rocks of which the +cliffs were composed; for on the slightest touch they often crumbled +away, rolling with a mass of _débris_ many hundreds of feet to the +bottom. + +From the summit a glorious scene was revealed to us. The mainland of +Greenland, that land so "wonderfull mountaynous, whose mountaynes all +the yeare long are full of yce and snowe," was distinctly brought to our +view, whilst immediately at our feet was the picturesque settlement of +Godhavn, and the three vessels, resembling miniature toy-ships, lying at +anchor in its snug little harbour. The Whale-fish Islands, a group in +Disco Bay, lay spread out as it were on a map. Hundreds of icebergs +dotted the perfectly placid sea, and beyond them we could plainly +discern the great ice fiord of Jacobshavn with its gigantic discharging +glacier behind, and the mouth of its fiord almost choked with huge +fragments of ice, children of that same glacier. At brief intervals a +noise as of thunder or distant artillery announced the disruption, or +creation, of one of these wonderful islands of ice. + +We were not, however, allowed to enjoy this glorious scene in quietness. +Our pleasure was marred by the attacks of swarms of musquitoes. These +irritating insects assailed us on first landing, and persecuted us +incessantly until we were again afloat. + + "A cloud of cumbrous gnattes doe us molest, + All striving to infixe their feeble stinges, + That from their noyance we nowhere can reste." + +It was indeed hard to meet so far in the icy north our implacable +enemies of the tropics! + +The descent was as dangerous, though perhaps not so laborious as the +ascent. Occasionally we were able to avail ourselves of patches of snow, +down which we slid, much to the astonishment and discomfiture of my dog +Nellie, who was at a loss to understand the means of our rapid progress, +and who rushed down after us barking frantically. + +We were excessively fortunate in our weather during our brief stay at +Godhavn. We rejoiced in ceaseless sunshine, which lit up the surrounding +hills with a golden light, throwing deep dark shadows into the valleys +and ravines by which they were intersected, whilst the bright rays of +the sun glittering on the ice-strewn surface of the sea formed a scene +at once novel and sublime. + +Our short stay at Godhavn will, I think, always be regarded with +pleasure by the members of the expedition. Nothing could exceed the +kindness we received and the hospitality that was extended to us by the +good people on shore, who appeared to vie with each other in their +endeavours to render our visit an agreeable one. Nor was it only from +the inhabitants that we received so much kindness. The captain, +officers, and indeed I may say the ship's company of the "Valorous" were +unremitting in their exertions to provide us with every necessary that +it was in their power to supply, for the furtherance of the arduous +service in which we were so soon to be engaged, depriving themselves of +many things that they thought would add to our comfort. + +Although the Eskimos, according to Dr. Rink, and we can have no better +authority respecting the natives of Greenland, have a pretty fair talent +for writing and drawing, scarcely any traces of sculpture belonging to +earlier times remain, with the exception of a few small images cut out +in wood or bone, which had probably served children as playthings. +Notwithstanding the want of means for handing down to posterity and +retaining historical events amongst this interesting people, many +traditions and legends have been preserved. Among the number is one +relating to this island of Disco. It was supposed to have been situated +off the southern coast of Greenland, and in consequence of its cutting +off the inhabitants of the mainland from the open sea, a great dislike +was entertained for it; for, to live comfortably, an Eskimo must be in +the vicinity of the sea, so as to follow his usual avocation of seal +hunting. + +The story relates that two old men, having set their wise heads +together, determined to attempt the removal of the island with the aid +of magic. A third old gentleman, however, desired to retain it in its +position. The first two, launching their kayaks, fastened the hair of a +little child to the island wherewith to tow it by; whilst the other, +from the shore, attempted to keep it back by means of a sealskin thong. +Desperately did the two kayakers labour at their paddles in their +endeavours to move the island, chanting their spells as they tugged at +the hair. But as resolutely did the third man hold on to his thong, +straining every nerve to render their exertions abortive; suddenly, to +his chagrin, the thong parted, and the island floated off, and was towed +away triumphantly to the northward, where it was deposited in its +present position. + +Another tradition says it was removed from Baal's River to its present +site by a famous angekok, or magician, and that the harbour of Godhavn +is the actual hole in the island to which the tow rope was fastened. + +On the afternoon of July the 15th, amidst much firing of guns and +dipping of flags, the little squadron steamed out of the harbour, +threading its way through innumerable icebergs, and passing along the +high snow-clad hills that adorn the southern end of the island of Disco, +proceeded towards the settlement of Ritenbenk, at which we arrived the +following morning. The scenery as we approached the anchorage was truly +magnificent. Lofty hills encompassed us on either hand, down whose steep +sides the water was pouring in rapid cascades, produced by the thawing +of the snow on their summits. How full of life and joy appeared these +bright sparkling streams as they seemed to chase each other in wanton +sport, skipping from rock to crag in their headlong career, until lost +in one large sheet of glistening spray that poured over the edge of a +precipitous cliff into the clear still water at its base! + +Thousands of birds congregate along the inaccessible ledges of these +cliffs, perched in such precise order, and having such a uniformity of +colour, that they resemble regiments of soldiers drawn up in readiness +to defend their fortresses from the attacks of ruthless invaders. But +fresh food was at a premium, and the wretched looms were doomed to +suffer a long assault at the hands of our energetic sportsmen. + +Other and more weighty matters also required our attention. We were to +bid farewell to the "Valorous" on the following morning. And with her we +should lose the last connecting link with home. + +Letters had to be hurriedly finished, and then we had to bid adieu to +one to whose untiring energy the departure of the expedition was due, +who had been mainly instrumental in obtaining the sanction of Government +for its dispatch, and who, leaving the comforts of a home life, had +accompanied us thus far on our journey, sharing our discomforts, but +adding to our knowledge from his rich fund of information, and +enlivening our mess-table with his conversation and presence. + +We felt, whilst he was on board, that we were not quite separated from +the civilized world. His departure made a chasm that it was difficult +for some time to bridge over, but the memory of him lived long amongst +us, and served to recall many a pleasant and happy hour. + +At four o'clock on the morning of the 17th the "Valorous" steamed away +from us on her way to the coal quarries on the north side of the island +of Disco, and, two hours after, the "Discovery" and ourselves put to +sea, having increased the number of our dogs by purchasing several from +the natives at Ritenbenk. + +The scenery in the Waigat, a strait separating the island of Disco from +the mainland of Greenland, is very grand. The channel was rendered +almost impassable from the number of icebergs of every fantastic form +and shape that lay scattered about, and which, although adding +materially to the beauty of the scene, made the passage one of no little +intricacy: indeed we very narrowly escaped losing all our boats on one +side of the ship by shaving a large iceberg a little too closely! + +On one side were the high snow-clad hills of Disco, intersected by deep +and narrow ravines, whilst on the opposite side was a bold and lofty +coast with precipitous headlands ending in needle-shaped peaks and +separated by glaciers and fiords. Passing the beautiful large +discharging glacier of Itivdliarsuk, many minor ones opened to our view +as we sailed slowly past, presenting a panorama such as it would be +impossible to depict faithfully on canvas. + +Several remarkable red patches, apparently of basalt, were observed on +the bare gneiss hills in the vicinity of Point Kardluk, which is noted +for the large quantity of vegetable fossils that have been found there, +and close to the petrified forest of Atanekerdluk. + +Catching sight of the "Valorous" at anchor, busily engaged in procuring +coal, we endeavoured to reach her, for the purpose of sending a few +stray letters that had been inadvertently left behind; but a thick fog +overtaking us, we were very reluctantly compelled to relinquish all idea +of communicating, and had to be satisfied with reading the signal of +"farewell" and "good wishes" that she threw out. It was fortunately +distinguished before the vessels were effectually concealed from each +other by an impervious fog which crept over the surface of the sea, +hiding everything around us, though high above our heads the mountain +tops were clearly to be seen. + +So dense did it become that we were, after a time, obliged to make the +ships fast to icebergs to await a more favourable opportunity of +advancing. + +Whilst attempting to secure the ships an alarming catastrophe occurred. +The boat had been dispatched containing three men with the necessary +implements, such as an ice drill and anchor, for making the vessel fast. + +As soon as the first blow of the drill was delivered the berg, to our +horror, split in two with a loud report, one half with one of our men on +it toppling completely over, whilst the other half swayed rapidly +backwards and forwards. On this latter piece was another of our men, who +was observed with his heels in the air, the violent agitation of the +berg having precipitated him head foremost into a rent or crevasse. The +water alongside was a mass of seething foam and spray; but curious to +relate, the boat with the third man in it was in no way injured. They +were all speedily rescued from their perilous position and brought on +board, sustaining no further harm than that inflicted by a cold bath. +Their escape appeared miraculous. + +By the next morning we were through the Waigat Strait. Much to our +disappointment the weather remained thick, and we were in consequence +unable to gratify ourselves with a sight of the truly grand scenery to +be found at the mouth of the Omenak fiord, which possesses some of the +largest discharging glaciers in Greenland. + +On the night of the 19th both vessels came to an anchor off the Danish +settlement of Proven. + +The harbour, which is small, is formed by two islands. On the western +side of the easternmost of the two is situated the quaintest of quaint +little settlements. It consists of a neat little church, the Governor's +residence, the storehouse, boiling down establishment, smithy, about two +other wooden habitations, and some igdlus, or Eskimo huts. Of course it +boasts its flagstaff and battery of three guns. The Governor, who, in +his endeavour to be civil, had boarded us before anchoring, apologized +for not saluting, saying "that though he had the guns he had no +artillerists." Although it was midnight before we arrived, the +inhabitants were lining the side of the hill as we entered, the white +boots and fur jackets and short trousers of the women affording a very +novel though picturesque scene. + +The dogs on shore, evidently annoyed at being disturbed in their +slumbers, set up a fearful howling, which, being answered by the dogs in +both ships, produced a most unpleasant and discordant concert. The +natives have a saying, when the dogs make this noise, "that they are +holding their parliament." This is hardly flattering to the Greenland +senate! + +During our short stay at this place a rough survey of the harbour was +taken, and a number of scientific observations were made. + +Nothing could be kinder or more friendly than the reception met with +from all on shore. In the Governor's good wife I recognized an old +acquaintance whom I had had the pleasure of meeting on a former occasion +during a cruise in a whaler to these regions. + +Here also we succeeded in engaging the services of Hans Hendrik, an +Eskimo, as dog-driver and hunter. This man had been employed in the same +capacity in all the American expeditions to Smith's Sound, and was an +invaluable acquisition. + +Our men enjoyed themselves every evening during our stay, dancing to +their hearts' content. + +My black retriever, Nellie, was a great object of admiration amongst the +inhabitants, one man especially being very pertinacious in his request +that she might be presented to him. On inquiring to what use he would +put her, I was informed that my faithful companion would be converted +into food for the man's oily-faced family, whilst her beautiful black +curly coat would serve to adorn his wife's person. Nellie, I think, had +some notion of the designs on her life and skin, as in future she always +regarded with disfavour not only the Eskimos themselves, but also their +dogs and everything belonging to them. + +Leaving Proven on the evening of the 21st of July, we arrived on the +same night off a remarkable headland called "Sanderson, his hope." It +was so named by old John Davis, after his friend and patron, Mr. W. +Sanderson, in 1587, and was the extreme northern point reached by him +during his third voyage.[1] + +This prominent and precipitous cliff is a famous place for looms, as +those white-breasted guillemots are termed, which are considered such +rare delicacies on an Arctic table. They are the _Uria Brunnichii_ of +naturalists, and are numerous in sub-Arctic regions. Their favourite +breeding-places are along these terraced cliffs, where they assemble in +large quantities. + +Of course so favourable an opportunity of procuring fresh food was not +to be disregarded. The ships were hove to, and the boats, crammed with +eager sportsmen, dispatched for the purpose of shooting for the "pot." + +Myriads of these birds were congregated along the face of the steep +precipitous cliffs, in some places almost overhanging, which rose +abruptly to an altitude of about a thousand feet. Owing, however, to the +unsteadiness of the boats, caused by the roughness of the sea, our "bag" +did not realize our anticipations. Many of the birds that were shot +remained on the inaccessible ledges of the rocks, and were therefore +lost to us; and many fell into the sea beyond, and were no more seen. + +The midnight sun was shining brightly during this _battue_, and we +returned to the ship, after a couple of hours' sport, the richer by one +hundred and seventy birds, each equal in weight to a fair-sized duck. +For the succeeding three or four days we revelled in "loom soup," "loom +pie," or "roast loom," and looms cooked in every imaginable form. No +matter how they were served up, they were always pronounced to be +delicious. Indeed, one of my messmates went so far as to say that he had +never tasted anything better in his life. In fact, for the purpose of +thoroughly enjoying a good dinner, a trip to the Arctic regions is +indispensable! + +On the following morning we anchored off Upernivik,[2] the most northern +settlement but one in Greenland. It is situated on one of the Woman +Islands, so named by Baffin in 1616. The usual kindness and hospitality +were extended to us here, as at all the other Danish settlements +visited. We also received important information concerning the state of +the ice to the northward, with a tabulated statement of all the +meteorological observations obtained during the previous winter, a study +of which would be of the greatest importance to us. + +In the evening, taking the "Discovery" in tow, we again put to sea, this +time finally bidding farewell to civilization. From henceforth our +energies and our thoughts must turn Polewards. + +As the last glimpse of the little church was shut out from our view, +many a prayer was silently offered to Him in his infinite mercy to +protect and guide us in our endeavours, and to vouchsafe us a safe +return again to home and civilization. + + +FOOTNOTES: + + [1] On his return to England he wrote to his friend, saying, "I have + been in 73°, finding the sea all open and forty leagues between land + and land. The passage (the N.W.) is most probable, the execution + easie, as at my coming you shall fully knowe." + + [2] It is sometimes spelt Uppernavik. But Upernivik is the correct + form. See Rink, p. 354. It means spring in the Eskimo language. + Upernivik is in 72° 48´ N. The most northern Danish station is + Tasiusak, in 73° 24´ N. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +MELVILLE BAY AND THE NORTH WATER. + + + "Embark with me, while I new tracts explore, + With flying sails and breezes from the shore. + Not that my song, in such a scanty space, + So large a subject fully can embrace. + Not though I were supplied with iron lungs, + A hundred mouths, filled with as many tongues. + But steer my vessel with a steady hand, + And coast along the shore in sight of land. + Nor will I try thy patience with a train + Of preface, or what ancient poets feign." + + VIRGIL. + +Threading our way through narrow passages between numerous islands that +lay to the eastward of Upernivik, and trusting to the knowledge and +guidance of an Eskimo pilot, we felt at length that we had in reality, +seen the last for some time, of our fellow men, and that our struggle +with the almost insuperable difficulties of the frozen north was about +to commence. + +Preparations for an unsuccessful combat with the ice were made, and +every precaution was adopted necessary to ensure the safety of the men, +in cases of extreme emergency. The boats were prepared for immediate +service, each man having his allotted station, so that little or no +confusion would ensue if the abandonment of the ships should be decided +upon--an event that was by no means improbable. Ice-saw crews were +organized in readiness for cutting a dock, in case such a proceeding +should become necessary for the protection of the vessels. Provisions +and clothes were so arranged along the upper deck that they could easily +and readily be thrown out on the ice at a moment's notice. Knapsacks, +each containing two pairs of blanket wrappers, one pair of hose, one +pair of stockings, one pair of mitts, one pair of drawers, a Welsh wig, +a jersey, a comforter, a pair of moccasins, a towel and small piece of +soap, were packed and placed in some handy position where they could be +reached without delay. The necessary tackles for lifting the screw and +unshipping the rudder were provided: in fact every preparation was made +that could possibly be thought of to guard against accidents and to +promote success in the forthcoming conflict. + +On the morning after leaving Upernivik, on account of a dense fog, it +was determined to anchor off one of the small islands composing a group +through which we were passing, in order to wait for finer weather. + +Our pilot, getting into his kayak, offered to pioneer us into a little +bay with which he was intimately acquainted. Being totally unable to +realize the difference of size between the large unwieldy "Alert" and +his own frail little bark, and probably imagining that where he was able +to go in his tiny boat, we also could do the same, he led us close in to +the land, which, on account of the thick fog, was hidden from our view, +and we soon had the annoyance of finding our ship hard and fast on +shore. Fortunately we were going very slow at the time, so that no +injury was sustained; but we remained immoveable for many hours until +the flood-tide floated us and enabled us once more to proceed. + +The dangers connected with a passage through Melville Bay are now so +well known to all who have taken any interest in Arctic affairs, or who +have devoted any time to the perusal of Arctic literature, that it is +needless for me either to explain or dwell upon them at any length. Many +a well-equipped ship has been caught in the fatal embrace of this bay. +What tales of woe and disaster could its icy waters unfold, coupled, +however, with deeds of heroic daring, endurance, and suffering! + +Captain Nares, determining to avoid the ordinary passage through this +once dreaded bay, the dangers of which in these days of steam have been +so materially lessened, pushed his ships boldly through what is +generally termed the "middle ice." This, at such a late season of the +year, is undoubtedly a wise course; but woe to the unfortunate ship that +at an earlier period should be caught in this moving pack, and be there +detained for thirteen or fourteen months, as the little "Fox" was, under +the command of Sir Leopold McClintock! + +If the pack is composed of loose light ice, such as we found it to be, +rendering a passage through it one of no difficulty, it may also be +presumed that the ice in Melville Bay at the same time would be of the +same consistency, thereby also affording an easy and safe passage +through. + +The reason that the passage by Melville Bay is always taken by the +whalers is the existence of fixed land ice, which is found adhering to +the shores, and in which it is easy to cut a dock for the preservation +of the ship if the heavy pack is forced by wind, or otherwise, towards +it, thereby endangering any vessel that may happen to be between the +two. Directly the pack moves off the vessel is liberated and proceeds on +her voyage. + +It would be very different if the ship was caught in the pack. Then she +would, in all probability, be severely handled, and being beset would +drift to the southward with the ice and thereby lose all the hard-fought +ground gained with so much labour and fatigue. + +One of the most important maxims in ice navigation, which is strictly +followed out by the whalers, is "stick to the land-ice." + +We were certainly extremely fortunate in finding the pack so "loose" as +to give us little trouble or difficulty in making progress. The ice was +of a soft "brashy" nature, apparently only of one year's formation, and +only from one to three feet in thickness. The weather being fine and +calm, advantage was taken of it to steam full speed, for there was no +saying how quickly the ice might pack with even a light breeze. The tow +rope was accordingly cast off, and we proceeded at our highest rate of +speed with the "Discovery" following close at our heels. + +Occasionally our progress would be checked by a stream of ice extending +across the lane of water through which we were steering; but through +these obstructions we bored, or charged them at full speed, and thus +cleared a way. A walrus and a few seals were seen on the ice, but their +capture did not hold out sufficient inducement to detain the ship. + +Very different from the apathy shown on passing these animals was the +excitement exhibited when a bear, a veritable Polar bear, was seen on +the ice. Such a rush for rifles and weapons of all descriptions! It was +the first and only bear seen, and therefore the excitement its presence +caused was natural. Every one appeared to share in it. Bear-skins were +certainly on that day at a premium, for all were eager and anxious to +become the fortunate possessor of such a prize. Master Bruin, however, +did not reciprocate this feeling, and evinced an equal amount of anxiety +to retain his nice warm coat. + +The engines were immediately stopped, and the boats crammed with +volunteer hunters. These landing on the ice, advanced upon their quarry +in skirmishing order, while the ship, steaming round to the opposite +side of the floe, endeavoured to cut off his retreat. All was +ineffectual. Bruin's strategic abilities were of too high an order for +us to cope successfully with him in his own territories, and he escaped. +Many rounds of ammunition, however, were fired at him both from the +party on shore and also by those on board the ship, in the faint hope +that a lucky shot might bring him down. To this day there are many who +seriously believe that he carried away with him a portion of the bullets +they so lavishly expended. So keen were some in the ardour and +excitement of the chase that they rushed on, heedless of the rotten and +treacherous nature of the ice, until an immersion in the cold water +brought them to a sense of their danger and compelled them to seek +refuge on board the ship, wet, cold, and uncomfortable. Many little +rotges (_Alca alle_) were flitting about from the ice to the water, and +the beautiful ivory gull (_Larus eburneus_) was also seen for the first +time. + +[Illustration: POLAR BEARS.] + +In thirty-four hours from first encountering the ice we reached the +North Water, and our troubles were for a time at an end. It was an +unprecedented passage. Only seventy hours from Upernivik to Cape York! + +Melville Bay, with all its terrors, was behind us; a beautifully smooth +unruffled sea, devoid of all ice, was in front; everything pointed to +success, and the hearts of all in the expedition beat high with joy and +delight at the speedy prospect of attaining the utmost realization of +their hopes. Large icebergs were around us in every direction; but what +cared we then for icebergs? We had continuous day; the North Water had +been reached; our way lay northwards. In a few short days the entrance +of Smith Sound would be reached, the threshold of the unknown region +crossed, and then onwards to--where? We did not dare to anticipate, but +we felt that the first step towards success had been gained, and that we +had commenced our real work under most propitious circumstances. We +would not predict, but we determined to deserve, success. + +It was, for many reasons, a matter of congratulation that this "North +Water" had been so speedily and so successfully reached. Instead of only +two or three weeks of the navigable season being available for us to +penetrate the hidden mysteries of Smith Sound, owing to our rapid +passage, we could reckon upon a clear month or five weeks before being +compelled to secure our ship in winter quarters; besides which, our fuel +had been very materially saved by this quick run, and this in itself, to +ships situated as we were, was no unimportant matter. + +On reaching the neighbourhood of Cape York, the "Discovery" was ordered +to proceed shorewards for the purpose of communicating with the natives +(the Arctic Highlanders of Sir John Ross), in the hope of inducing one +of their number, a brother-in-law of Hans, to accompany the expedition; +the "Alert" in the mean time shaping a course to the Cary Islands, at +which latter place the "Discovery" was ordered to rejoin us. + +The scenery, as we steamed along at a distance of about two miles from +the shore, was most interesting. The hills along the coast were entirely +clad with snow, whilst the long undulating ranges, as they receded far +back to the horizon, appeared to be buried under the everlasting _mer de +glace_. Numerous glaciers of various sizes, some of them being +discharging ones, rolled down to the water's edge in one vast icy sheet. +The width of one of these, the Petowik Glacier, is fully seven miles. +Fragments from these lay scattered along the coast in every direction, +whilst we had to thread our way through clusters of huge bergs of every +form and size. Passing the crimson cliffs of Beverley, we were able to +distinguish, in a few small patches, the so-called coloured snow whence +the name originates; but not in the highly imaginative mass of bright +colour depicted by Sir John Ross, in his interesting illustrated work +describing his voyage to Baffin Bay. The question of the nature of this +colouring matter on snow has now been definitely set at rest. It is an +alga, the _Protococcus nivalis_. + +We did not reach the Cary Islands so soon as we expected, in consequence +of experiencing a strong S.E. current that had not been anticipated. A +sudden rise of temperature of the surface water naturally led us to +suppose that it must be due to the absence of ice, which, raising our +spirits, made us regard with displeasure any hindrance to our progress. + +Arriving off the Cary group early on the morning of the 27th, we were +detained for a few hours landing a boat with a large depôt of +provisions, sufficient to sustain 60 men for two months, or 120 men for +one month. The depôt was placed on the easternmost island, and a large +cairn was erected on the highest and most prominent point. Here also +were deposited the last home letters which our friends were destined to +receive until after our own arrival in England. + +The depôt was established as a safeguard for us to fall back upon in +case of any accident happening to our vessels in Smith Sound. From this +position it was expected that a party duly provisioned would have little +difficulty in reaching the northern Greenland settlements, or at any +rate the simple but hospitable natives of Cape York, who would, it was +anticipated, afford us protection and assistance. This duty having been +accomplished, and having been rejoined by our consort, the northward +course was resumed.[1] + +Crossing over to the eastward we steamed along on that beautifully clear +sunny morning within a short distance of the western shores of +Greenland. With the exception of icebergs, not a speck of ice was to be +seen to disturb the smooth glassy surface of the sea. Passing the mouth +of Whale Sound we made rapid progress northwards, steering between +Northumberland and Hakluyt Islands, almost under their steep, +precipitous, and in some places overhanging cliffs; on past Murchison +Sound with the Crystal Palace glacier ahead, whilst on our port bow was +easily discernible the opposite coast of Ellesmere Land, with the Prince +of Wales Mountains, covered with snow or ice, rising above the western +horizon. + +It was indeed a glorious sight as we passed close to this little known +land, opening out, as we proceeded, its many and large glaciers +glittering white and radiant in the sunshine, growing, as it were, out +of the clouds and rolling down grandly towards the sea, until the opaque +masses plunged sullenly and silently into the deep blue water. + +Animal life, so far as the feathered tribes were concerned, appeared in +abundance. The lively little rotges or little auks (_Alca alle_) were +seen in frequent clusters diving quickly under water as the ship +approached. Looms (_Uria Brunnichii_), dovekies (_Uria grylle_), and +king-ducks (_Somateria spectabilis_), alarmed at our appearance, rose in +long flights, and circled around us uttering their discordant cries. The +glaucous gull and the pretty kittiwake (_Larus tridactylus_) soared +above our heads, whilst occasionally a graceful ivory gull (_Larus +eburneus_) flapped its way leisurely along, its snowy wings contrasting +with the background of clear blue sky. Here and there, on small +fragments of floating ice, were seen huge walruses basking in the golden +sunshine. Amid such scenes, which to be realized must be seen, the two +vessels wended their way towards the entrance of Smith Sound, all elated +with the fair prospect that was before them and hopeful for the future. + +At half-past seven on the morning of the 28th of July both ships came to +an anchor in Hartstene Bay, more commonly known as Port Foulke, the +harbour in which Dr. Hayes wintered in 1860. + + +FOOTNOTE: + + [1] The Cary Islands consist of a group of eight islands, besides + small rocks or islets, and are situated in Baffin Bay, in lat. 76° + 45´ N. They vary in size from two and a half miles in diameter + downwards. They are composed of syenitic and porphyritic granite, + overlaid in places with gneiss. They rise to a height of about 400 + feet above the level of the sea, and possess a luxuriant vegetation, + at least for these regions. They are much frequented as breeding + places by the eider-ducks and looms. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +SMITH SOUND. + + + "Now far he sweeps, where scarce a summer smiles, + On Behring's rocks, or Greenland's naked isles. + Cold on his midnight watch the breezes blow, + From wastes that slumber in eternal snow, + And waft across the waves' tumultuous roar + The wolf's long howl from Oonalaska's shore." + + CAMPBELL. + +No sooner were the ships secured and breakfast discussed, than there was +a regular rush for the shore. Some went for a scramble over the +neighbouring glacier, named by Dr. Kane, "My brother John's glacier;" +some went to collect specimens; others to take various scientific +observations; and others to hunt and shoot--this spot having been found +wonderfully prolific of game, more especially of reindeer, during Dr. +Hayes's stay. No signs of any inhabitants were visible. This surprised +us, as we were fully expecting to meet the natives of the village of +Etah, situated only a couple of miles from the anchorage. A visit to the +village during the course of the day proved the huts to be standing, but +quite deserted. Traces of their having been recently inhabited were +manifest, and portions of seal and walrus meat were discovered in +_caches_, as if the migration was only temporary and a return was +meditated. No other signs, however, of any living human being were +found. + +Leaving to others the exploration of the country in the immediate +vicinity of the harbour, Captain Nares and myself started, in one of the +whale-boats, with four men, for the purpose of visiting Life-boat Cove, +where some of the officers and crew of the "Polaris" spent their second +winter, 1872-3, and also to search for an iron boat on Littleton Island, +said to have been left there by Dr. Hayes in 1860. + +Sailing round Sunrise Point, we encountered a fresh northerly wind dead +in our teeth, against which, under oars, we made but slow progress, +whilst the cold spray flew aft into our faces where it almost froze. +After about five hours' hard pulling Life-boat Cove was reached, and +very glad we all were to get on shore and stretch our legs and restore +the circulation of our blood. + +Immediately on landing we met with traces of the late occupants. These +consisted of a large cairn--which, however, had been demolished by +others previous to our arrival, probably by the searching expedition +sent out in the "Tigress" in 1873--a basket lined with tin, and a trunk, +neither of which contained anything of importance; indeed, their +contents and the strong odour pervading them convinced us that they were +now the property of Eskimos. Strolling on a little further, a boat was +seen, which, although somewhat of European shape, appeared to be of +Eskimo construction, as it was simply a framework covered with skins; +yet it was undoubtedly built under a white man's superintendence. + +Continuing to advance until we reached the western extreme of the spit +of land on which we had landed, we conjectured, from the amount of +_débris_ by which we were surrounded, although no remains of a house +were visible, that we were on the site of the Americans' winter +quarters. Trunks, boxes, stoves, pieces of wood, gun-barrels, and odds +and ends of all descriptions lay strewed about over an area of half a +square mile--a desolate scene of ruin and misery! + +Some of the boxes were marked with the names of their previous owners, +and contained, amongst other things, books, principally relating to the +Arctic regions. One trunk contained a few small articles of female +apparel, such as a lace collar and black veil, and some faded ribbons; +souvenirs from some fair damsel at home, which had probably, from the +thoughts their presence created, beguiled many a long and lonely hour +during the monotonous winter night. Numerous cairns and _caches_, under +which were deposited lumps of seal blubber, led us to suppose that the +natives intended returning, especially with such a mine of wealth to +attract them as an abundance of wood and iron, so invaluable to an +Eskimo. + +Two other boats were also found, constructed in the same rude manner as +the first. On one was painted, in good large letters, the word MAUMOKPO; +though what it meant we were at a loss to conceive, but concluded it was +an Icelandic name. + +Two Casella thermometers, marked as low as 130° below zero, were also +picked up in perfect order. It is to be regretted that these were not +self-registering maximum and minimum thermometers, as it would have been +most interesting to have ascertained the greatest amount of heat and +cold at this spot during a period of more than two years. + +Collecting everything that we considered of the least value, such as +books and instruments, for the purpose of returning them to the United +States Government, and taking possession of a couple of boats, which we +thought would prove useful at some of our depôts, we embarked and +proceeded towards Littleton Island, with our prizes in tow. Diligent +search was made for the pendulum said to have been left by the "Polaris" +people, but without success: also for the box chronometers and transit +instrument, but with a like result. We could only come to the conclusion +that, if these articles had been left there, somebody had been before +us. Every cairn and _cache_ was thoroughly examined, and so was every +nook and crannie within a radius of half a mile from where we imagined +the house had originally stood. A chronometer-box was picked up, but +empty. + +On landing at Littleton Island a careful search was instituted for +Hayes's boat, but, although we made the complete circuit of the island, +we failed to discover any traces of it whatever. At the south-west end +we erected a cairn on the highest hill, about five or six hundred feet +above the level of the sea, and obtained a round of angles with the +theodolite. The view from the top of this hill was very cheering. Cape +Sabine was distinctly visible; whilst farther to the northward could be +seen the land about Cape Fraser, with _no signs of ice_! We were, +however, too wary to indulge to excess in hopeful anticipations, knowing +full well the vagaries of our capricious enemy, the ice; but still such +a scene could not but tend to cheer and exhilarate, and send us back to +our ship with light and buoyant hearts. + +It was past midnight before we reached the "Alert." Our sportsmen, we +found, had been unsuccessful in their endeavours to shoot any reindeer; +one, however, fell to the rifle of an officer of the "Discovery." Very +few were seen, and those so wild as to render an approach within range +no easy matter. Several ducks and a few hares, however, were obtained. + +Leaving Port Foulke on the following morning, we crossed over to the +west side, and erected a large cairn on the summit of Cape Isabella, +about one thousand feet above the level of the sea. The ascent of this +headland was both arduous and dangerous. The face of the cliff was very +precipitous, and it was only by a zig-zag course that it could be +effected. At one moment the way led over loose shingle, that gave way +under the feet at every step; at another over a broad patch of frozen +snow, one false step on whose slippery surface would precipitate one +many hundred feet below; and at another we were clinging desperately +with hands and feet to the hard, smooth, syenitic granite rocks, of +which this cape is composed. Very thankful were we when the summit was +reached; but much more so when we found ourselves again at its base, +sound in wind and limb. To add to the difficulties, there was a high +wind and dense snowstorm. + +At a less high elevation, and in a secure niche amongst the rocks, were +deposited an empty cask and about one hundred and fifty pounds of +preserved beef. The cask was intended for the reception of any letters +that might be brought up by a Government ship in the following year, or +by any enterprising and adventurous whaling captain who should penetrate +so far in order to bring us news. The provisions were left as a small +depôt for any sledging party that might be dispatched to the southward. +The site was marked by a small cairn. Records were left at each of these +cairns detailing the movements and the prospects of the expedition, +together with instructions regarding our letters, should any be brought +thus far. + +Some beautiful little yellow poppies were gathered on the slopes and +crests of the hill, whilst the draba and saxifrage were found growing in +profusion. + +The navigation of these icy seas is most uncertain! Within twenty-four +hours of the time that, from the summit of Littleton Island, we had been +cheered by the view of an apparently open sea free of ice, and extending +in our imagination for miles to the northward, we were battling with the +pack, consisting of large floes and loose broken-up fields, that +extended on both sides of us and as far north as we could see. From this +period our troubles commenced; from this date our progress was one +endless and unceasing struggle with the ice: ever on the watch, and +never allowing a favourable opportunity to pass unheeded. + +Shortly after leaving Cape Isabella the ice was observed stretching +across Baird Inlet--the fixed land ice with loose detached streams. As +we proceeded more ice was seen, which by degrees completely surrounded +us, and we only succeeded, after much boring and charging, in forcing a +way through, and into a well-protected little harbour to the southward +of Cape Sabine. This bay was formed by a deep indentation in the land +having a long jutting-out spit to the S.E. which acted as a famous +breakwater, and was protected seawards by Brevoort Island. Here we were +detained for five days, although several attempts were made to proceed, +which resulted in one instance in a hopeless besetment in the ice for +some hours. The pack was impenetrable; our only hope was to wait +patiently for a strong wind to open out a passage. The place was in +consequence called "Bide-a-wee" Harbour, subsequently changed to Payer +Harbour, after the distinguished Austrian Arctic explorer of that name. + +During our detention the time of the officers was not unprofitably +spent. A rough survey of the place was made, its position was correctly +ascertained, a series of magnetic observations were obtained, and long +walks were taken in the neighbourhood, during which a large and rich +collection was made in the interests of geology and botany. No game of +any description was seen. Traces of Eskimo were discovered, but +evidently of an ancient date. They consisted of the remains of igdlus or +huts, also some bone spear-heads, and the runners and cross-bars of a +sledge.[1] Tidal observations were also taken in the harbour. + +Here also, it may be said, we received our first lessons in the art of +sledging; for, wishing to be initiated into its mysteries, a party, +consisting of four officers and five men dragging one of our large +twenty-feet ice boats on a sledge, started to travel over the pack. Our +main object was of course to derive some practical experience in this +all-important mode of Arctic exploration, and in this, I think, we +succeeded. + +We found the ice exceedingly hummocky, with narrow water spaces between, +_just_ too broad to admit of our jumping over, yet not sufficiently +wide to launch the boat into. So rough was the road that at one time the +bows of the boat would be seen rising almost perpendicularly in the air, +whilst all hands were engaged in long-standing pulls on the drag-ropes +to the tune of "one, two, three, haul;" at another time the sledge would +come down the side of a hummock with such rapidity as to give us hardly +time to spring out of the way to avoid the sledge and boat coming over +us, and many were the falls in consequence. It was, however, rare fun. +Once while launching the boat into a pool of water she nearly capsized; +as it was she half filled, and everything inside--provisions, clothes, +instruments, guns, and ammunition--was thoroughly saturated. A gold +watch that happened to be in a coat pocket was not improved by its +immersion. + +Another source of amusement during our stay in this harbour was chasing +"unies," as narwhals are invariably called by the whalers; but, although +a good deal of patience and perseverance was displayed in attempts to +harpoon them, these qualities were never rewarded, and the boats always +returned unsuccessful from their pursuit. + +Our little check in this harbour produced a slight despondency in those +who, for the previous few days, had been most sanguine of pushing on. +This was always alluded to in the ward-room as the depression of the +social barometer, and was for the future daily registered! + +On the morning of the 4th of August, a southerly gale having blown all +the previous night, a channel of open water was visible as far as Cape +Sabine. This was an opportunity not to be lost. Accordingly, at 4 A.M., +the anchors were weighed, and, before a fresh but bitter cold wind, both +ships made sail, and succeeded, after having made so many futile +attempts, in rounding the Cape. Bearing away to the westward we steered +up Hayes Sound, keeping close in to the land, the grounded icebergs +giving us timely notice of shoal water. At noon, opening a perfectly +land-locked bay, and the ice being so closely packed ahead as to defy +farther progress, the vessels were steered for the entrance, and we soon +found ourselves in a beautiful inlet enclosed by high land, but bounded +on one side by one of the grandest sights it is possible to behold: two +enormous glaciers coming from different directions, but converging at +their termination. They reminded us of two huge giants silently +attempting to push and force each other away. + +It was indeed a noble sight, and filled us with impatient curiosity for +the moment when we could land and indulge in a closer inspection. + +Accordingly, the anchors were no sooner let go than several started for +the purpose of paying it a visit. Landing abreast of the ship, we had +rather a rough and tumble sort of a scramble over loose masses of +gneiss, until we emerged on the banks of the bed of the glacier--that +is, the bed formed by the water running from the glacier during the +summer thaws. The walking was most laborious, at one moment through a +wet swampy bog, and at another over rough sharp-pointed stones. + +The vegetation appeared luxuriant, and we found the traces of musk-oxen, +reindeer, wolves, foxes, and hares in abundance; but, although we were +provided with guns, we failed to secure any game, for the simple reason +that we saw none. But the traces of musk-oxen were very fresh, and +several horns of the reindeer were picked up. After a tedious walk of +about four or five miles we arrived at the glacier--the stupendous and +sublime work of ages. How insignificant and despicable did we appear in +comparison to this gigantic creation of Nature! I can compare it to +nothing except, perhaps, a frozen Niagara! The left-hand glacier was +rounded off, like a huge icy wave to its end, whilst it receded from our +view in long milky undulations until lost in the clouds. The right-hand +one--the lateral and terminal sides of which were quite precipitous--was +pressing against its neighbour until it had raised a slight ridge +between the two. We were naturally desirous of ascending one or both of +these glaciers, but time would not admit of such an undertaking, and we +were therefore compelled to content ourselves by standing upon a small +projection of each glacier, so as to be able to say that we had been on +them. + +That Eskimos had visited this locality was certain; for we discovered on +our way out the site of an old settlement, and on the way back we +observed two large cairns that had evidently been used as _caches_. + +Alexandra Bay and Twin Glacier Valley, as they were henceforth +designated, were the nearest approach to an Arctic paradise that we saw +during our sojourn in the Polar Regions. A sheltered and well-protected +harbour, with a locality abounding in game of various descriptions, are +of such importance that it is impossible to prize them too highly. They +should be the first and grand objects to be taken into consideration +whilst selecting a spot for winter quarters. + +Although we were not fortunate in obtaining game during our stay of only +a few hours in this interesting neighbourhood, I have not the slightest +doubt that, had we penetrated a little farther into the interior, or had +we remained here a day or two longer, we should have been rewarded by an +ample supply, the traces that we observed being both numerous and +recent. + +From tidal observations made during our brief stay in this harbour, we +found that the flood tide in Hayes Sound came from the eastward, but +that the ebb coming from the westward was the strongest. Whether Hayes +Sound was a strait opening out to the westward or only a deep inlet was, +and remains, a matter of uncertainty. + + +FOOTNOTE: + + [1] The fact of one of these spear-heads being tipped with iron, + although they all bear the semblance of great age, would lead one to + suppose that the tribe by whom it was left must have had some + intercourse with Europeans, unless meteoric iron was used. This would + be a very interesting question to decide. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +STRUGGLES WITH THE ICE. + + + "On those great waters now I am, + Of which I have been told, + That whosoever hither came + Should wonders there behold. + + "Trim thou the sails, and let good speed + Accompany our haste; + Sound thou the channels at our need, + And anchor for us cast. + + "A fit and favourable wind + To further us provide, + And let it wait on us behind, + Or lackey by our side." + + GEORGE WITHER. + +The morning following our arrival in Alexandra Harbour saw us again +battling with the ice in Hayes Sound, having been deluded into leaving +our comfortable snug quarters by the report that the pack had drifted to +the eastward, leaving a navigable channel extending to the north. The +report was fallacious, but we succeeded in threading our way to the N.W. +for about twenty miles, when both ships were helplessly beset, with but +little hope of extrication without a shift of wind. + +Many broad glaciers were in view, winding their long white snaky +lengths between the hills, some of which could be traced into the +interior for ten or twelve miles, or until lost in illimitable space. + +In twenty-four hours, the ice slackening enabled us to bore a way +through, eventually emerging into a broad stream of water. How sudden +and wonderful are the changes in these regions! From being closely +beset, a couple of hours saw us in an apparently open sea with _no ice_ +in sight, and bowling along before a fresh southerly gale at the rate of +seven knots. Social barometer very high! In the morning not a spoonful +of water to be seen in any direction, in the evening not a vestige of +ice! + +Passing close to the western shore we were able to confirm our views +regarding the Henry and Bache Islands of Hayes. They are undoubtedly +connected, and therefore not islands; but whether they were also +connected with the mainland we were not able to determine. In all +probability the supposed islands are a peninsula, apparently of +sandstone formation overlying trap, different to the granitic formation +of the southern shore of the strait. The land appeared quite bare of +vegetation, and bore a strong resemblance to the Silurian limestone +formation of the land about Prince Regent Inlet, showing stratifications +dipping to the northward at an angle of about 6°. + +It does not do to indulge too freely in vain hopes in these regions. A +period of eight hours was sufficient to cause our hopeful anticipations +of a grand run to the northward to be "considerably eased down;" for in +that time we were again stopped by the ice, and compelled to make fast +to a floe, until the pack opened sufficiently to allow us to proceed. +During the run we passed some very heavy floes--heavier than anything +we had hitherto met, and quite sufficient in themselves to crush any +unfortunate ship that should happen to get nipped between two of them. + +Off Albert Head great excitement was caused by the floe, to which both +ships were secured, being driven towards a large grounded iceberg. To be +squeezed between the two would be fatal. Our destruction seemed +inevitable. Yet we on board were helpless to avert the catastrophe. All +that we could do was to prepare for a severe nip: unship the rudder, and +lift the screw, and having taken every precaution to ensure the safety +of the crew, in the event of the ship's demolition, we could only look +on, and in silence witness, as we thought, the irresistible and +destroying powers of the Ice-King. + +The "Discovery" was at first in the most critical position, but a slight +swerving of the floe relieved her from any immediate danger, whilst the +same movement of the ice intensified our own. + +Nearer and more swiftly were we hurried towards the grim and motionless +berg, up whose sides the floe, as it came into contact with it, was seen +to be literally walking and forcing its way, crumbling and falling into +shapeless masses at its base. + +Escape appeared impossible. It seemed hard at the very commencement of +our voyage thus to lose our ship, and with it all hopes of success. +Suddenly, when our fate seemed almost decided, the berg turned slightly, +splitting up the floe to which we were secured and sending us clear. It +was a narrow shave, and although we suffered a slight nip, no material +damage was sustained. + +Being myself too fully occupied with the work on deck, one of my +messmates kindly packed a few of my valuables together, ready to take +away in case of having to abandon the ship. On going below after the +ship had been secured, I found carefully packed in a haversack my +journals, Bible and Prayer-Book, a few photographs, and three boxes of +sardines! + +It must not be supposed that we passed in idleness those days that we +were beset in the ice and unable to advance. As a rule our time was more +fully occupied then than when we had leads of water in which we could +proceed. Steam had to be kept ready for any sudden emergency, and a +constant watch had to be kept on every movement of the pack. Frequently +had the ice anchors to be tripped and the vessel moved, in order to +avoid bergs or floes closing in upon and nipping us. Occasionally, when +the pack opened, or appeared what we called "slack," we would attempt to +bore through; but as this invariably entailed a large consumption of +fuel, and gave very little result, it was not resorted to more than was +absolutely necessary. Every opening in the ice was taken advantage of, +by which we slowly but surely made progress northwards. + +The crow's-nest was never deserted. In it Captain Nares might almost be +said to live, rarely coming on deck even for his meals; as for a night's +rest, such a thing to him was quite unknown. From the "nest" the motions +of the ice were closely scrutinized, the tides and currents were +studied, and the influence of the wind on the pack ascertained. No +opportunity was ever lost, and it was entirely due to this unceasing +watchfulness that the expedition succeeded in advancing, although it was +only inch by inch. + +Victoria Head was reached on the morning of the 8th of August, but at +the expense of damaged rudder-heads to both ships, caused by the +constant backing into the ice whilst engaged in charging and breaking +through slight streams that offered impediments to our advance. A +detention here enabled us to pay the shore a visit. Great difficulty was +experienced in landing on account of the ice-foot adhering to the land, +which resembled a perpendicular frozen wall rising to the height of +about twelve feet. Indeed it was more overhanging than perpendicular, as +the action of the water had considerably undermined its base and +therefore rendered it almost inaccessible. By the aid of a long +boat-hook staff and some rope we succeeded in clambering up, at the +expense of bruised hands, the jagged surface of the ice cutting like +penknives. This proceeding was not unattended by a certain amount of +danger, for had the ice given way we should have been precipitated into +the boat, in which case we should have been extremely lucky to have +escaped without a fractured bone or limb. + +The loose and rugged slabs of slaty limestone of which the hills were +composed made the walking very arduous, added to which a thick fog and +snowstorm that overtook us rendered our climb unprofitable so far as +ascertaining the nature of the ice to seaward and the prospect of +pushing on were concerned. The steep cliffs surrounding this prominent +headland are wasted and worn by the combined effects of snow and +weather, and present the same "battlemented" appearance so common to the +Silurian limestone formation of the cliffs about Prince Regent Inlet and +Lancaster Sound. A few fossils were collected, but, with the exception +of some sprigs of the stunted willow and a single tuft of saxifrage, +the land was devoid of all vegetation. Deep ravines stretched away into +the interior, entirely free from both snow and ice. Traces of former +inhabitants were discovered along the beach, consisting of the site of +an Eskimo settlement and a few small cairns or fox-traps. + +Hitherto the traces of these interesting tribes have been continuous +along the western side of Smith Sound, and tend, in my opinion, to prove +conclusively that the Eskimos were in former days far more numerous than +they are at the present time. What has become of them? The solution of +this important ethnological question would be of the greatest interest. +Have they gradually died out? or have they migrated farther south, and +are now represented by the "Arctic Highlanders," and by tribes settled +on both sides of Lancaster Sound who are frequently visited by our +whalers? + +It is certain that at some remote time there was a movement of Eskimo +tribes from Asia towards Greenland in these high latitudes, for traces +of their encampments have been found along the shores of the Parry group +from Melville Island to Lancaster Sound, where they are still living in +Dundas Harbour and in Admiralty Inlet. The late Admiral Sherard Osborn +and my cousin, Mr. Clements Markham, paid great attention to this +subject during the Arctic Expedition of 1850-51, and prepared a +descriptive list of all the Eskimo vestiges along the whole length of +the Parry group.[1] We now traced similar remains up the western side +of the channels leading north from Smith Sound, at Cape Sabine, on the +shores of Buchanan Strait, on Norman Lockyer Island, on Capes Hilgard, +Louis Napoleon, Hayes, and Fraser, at Radmore Harbour, and Bellot +Island. The most northern point where human remains were discovered was +at Cape Beechey, in 81° 54´ N. Here our naturalist found the framework +of a large wooden sledge, a stone lamp, and a snow scraper made of +walrus tusk. Beyond this point there was no sign of any human being +having preceded us. This is the utmost northern known limit of Eskimo +wandering, and here they appear to have crossed the strait, and to have +made their way southward on the Greenland side. The most northern +permanent human habitation in the world is now at Etah, near Port +Foulke, and, under present climatic conditions, it would be impossible +even for the Etah Eskimo to exist at Cape Beechey, in 81° 54´ N., +whither their ancestors must have wandered in remote times. There is +much yet to learn respecting these marvellous wanderings along the +Arctic shores; and our expedition has certainly thrown considerable new +light on the question. We have fixed the most northern limit of the +Eskimo migrations, and have established the fact that they did not come +from the north down Smith Sound, but merely wandered round its shores +until the palæocrystic floes in Robeson Channel made them despair of +finding there the means of supporting life. We have also proved that the +people seen by Captain Clavering on the east coast of Greenland in 1823 +could not have come round its northern extreme, but that they had found +their way to the neighbourhood of the Pendulum Islands from Cape +Farewell. They are useful contributions towards the final solution of a +very important ethnological question, which, however, cannot be fully +and conclusively settled until all the unknown parts of the Polar area +have been explored. + + +FOOTNOTE: + + [1] See the "Selection of Papers on Arctic Geography and Ethnology," + printed for the use of the Expedition by the Royal Geographical + Society, p. 163. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +WALRUS HUNT.--DOG DRIVING. + + + "So Zembla's rocks, the beauteous work of frost, + Rise white in air, and glitter o'er the coast; + Pale suns, unfelt, at distance roll away, + And on the impassive ice the lightnings play; + Eternal snows the growing mass supply, + Till the bright mountains prop the incumbent sky: + As Atlas fixed, each hoary pile appears, + The gathered winter of a thousand years." + + POPE. + +During the remainder of the navigable season, I propose to present the +narrative of the voyage in the form of a diary, giving the extracts as +they were written down at the time, when the events they record were +fresh in my memory. + +_Sunday, August 8th._--Snow fell very heavily during the forenoon, +completely covering the surrounding hills, and lying several inches deep +on our deck. Clearing up in the afternoon we found ourselves completely +beset by the ice and drifting shorewards. Steam was resorted to and +every effort made to reach a narrow lane of water, only a hundred yards +distant, but without success. At four o'clock the ship experienced a +slight nip, the ice piling up as high as our main chains, but +fortunately for us it was of too soft a nature to do much damage. Half +an hour afterwards the nip eased and the pack commenced to open, showing +broad lanes of water. This sudden slackening of the ice was due to the +total cessation of wind. We soon extricated ourselves from our +unpleasant situation, and lay in eager readiness to take advantage of +any opportunity of advancing that might offer itself. + +11.30 P.M.--The ways of ice are indeed inscrutable! Five hours ago +Grinnell Land loomed in the distance, and we had little prospect of +reaching it for some time. Now we are actually made fast to the land-ice +in Franklin Pierce Bay on the southern shore of Grinnell Land! + +We esteem ourselves particularly fortunate in having reached thus far. +Cape Fraser is not far distant, and this appears to be our Rubicon. Once +passed, fewer difficulties are anticipated. We may very fairly reason +that to the northward of this promontory will be found a "North Water" +similar to the one north of Baffin Bay, the ice remaining in the broad +part of Smith Sound like the middle pack in Baffin Bay and Davis +Straits. + +In the latitude of Cape Fraser Kane reported what he called an open +Polar Sea, Hayes the same, whilst the "Polaris" actually navigated for +some distance this "North Water." Why-should we find it different? + +The ice opened this afternoon in a miraculous manner, in one long lead +from land to land, sufficiently wide for us to pass through; and then, +as if it had opened expressly for us, closed again, and with such +rapidity that our consort, who was following in our wake, having lagged +a little behind, was caught and remained beset for some time; +eventually, however, boring through and rejoining us. + +_August 9th._--We succeeded this morning in pushing on for three or four +miles, when, being completely stopped by the ice, we were again +compelled to make fast. In consequence of the heavy fall of snow +yesterday, the surface of the water was coated with a soft sludgy +substance, half ice and half snow, which greatly impeded our progress. + +The statement made by Dr. Hayes in his interesting work, that "along the +entire coast of Grinnell Land no glacier appears," is slightly +inaccurate; for at the head of Franklin Pierce Bay two tolerably large +glaciers are situated, whilst another was seen a few miles to the +westward on the same coast. Doubtless Dr. Hayes intended to say +_discharging_ glaciers, in which case he would, I think, be nearly +correct. + +For three days were we detained, without the ice allowing us the +slightest chance of moving, during which time a complete series of +magnetic observations was obtained on the floe, the inclination of the +needle being as much as 85° 34´. Both the dredge and trawl were also put +into requisition and with good results. Amongst the many zoological +curiosities brought to the surface, from a depth of fifteen fathoms, +were some crinoids. These echinoderms are very rare, few specimens +having been met with, until the deep-sea dredgings of the "Challenger" +brought them more into notice. + +A small island, since called Norman Lockyer Island after the +distinguished astronomer of that name, was visited, and its highest +eminence ascended for the purpose of watching the movements of the pack. +Landing on the ice-foot that fringed the shore, we stepped on to a long +shaly beach that rose in well-defined and regular terraces to at least +two hundred feet above the level of the sea, showing the different tidal +marks, and illustrating clearly the gradual upheaval of the land. +Numerous traces of Eskimo were discovered on this small and remote +island, consisting of the sites of several encampments, and a bone +harpoon point, all apparently of very ancient date. The highest part of +the island is from five to six hundred feet above the sea. It is of +limestone formation, and on several of the rocks, especially those at +its summit, distinct glacial marks were detected. Vegetation was scanty, +although here and there the poppy, saxifrage, and willow could be seen +cropping up between the stones. + +Here too we succeeded in harpooning a couple of walruses. Three of these +large animals were observed on a piece of ice, their large ungainly +forms stretched out, lazily enjoying their _siesta_. Volunteers were not +wanting for the purpose of attempting their capture; but as an +indiscriminate attack would only lead to failure, it was determined to +despatch one of the whale boats, specially fitted with a harpoon gun, +and all the necessary implements and gear for securing these animals, in +order to effect in a more organized and skilful manner the object we had +in view. + +Great difficulty was experienced in approaching our prey, as the boat +had to be hauled over loose fragments of ice, and pushed through a +sludgy consistency of soft ice, snow, and water, in which the oars were +useless; so that it was feared the unavoidable noise would disturb and +frighten them away. At length, after much trouble and no little +exertion, we succeeded in getting within about eight yards, so sound +was their repose, without exciting any suspicion in their minds that +danger was lurking in their vicinity. At that distance, however, they +evinced a degree of restlessness, by lifting their shaggy heads and +uttering jerky spasmodic snorts, that showed us only too plainly a +retreat was meditated. + +[Illustration: WALRUSES.] + +Selecting the largest of the three as his victim, our harpooner +carefully laid his gun. A moment of breathless suspense followed, to be +relieved by the report of the gun, a roar of pain and rage, and the +disappearance in the water of the three walruses, while the piece of +ice, on which a moment before they had been reposing, was covered with +blood, convincing us that our shaft had taken effect. If any further +proof was required in corroboration of this fact, a tugging at the line +and the sudden moving of the boat was sufficient. Lances and rifles were +quickly seized; for these animals, when wounded and maddened by pain, +are ugly and dangerous customers, and have frequently been known to rip +the planks out of a boat with their formidable tusks, and thus +seriously endanger the lives of the crew. We had not long to wait; a +disturbance in the water close alongside denoted that our victim was +coming to the surface. An instant after, his bearded face with every +expression of infuriated rage and demoniacal hate, his fiery eyes +glaring with vengeance, appeared, and was immediately saluted with two +or three rifle bullets. This warm reception served only to incense and +irritate him, and he tried hard to wreak his vengeance on the boat; but +his enemies were too powerful, and with the united aid of bullets and +lance thrusts the unwieldy beast was forced to succumb to the superior +power of his human antagonists. Towing the great carcase back to the +ship, it was hauled up on the floe, and quickly _flinched_.[1] The +blubber and flesh were packed in barrels, making a very welcome addition +to the small amount of food that we had on board for our dogs. + +Another walrus was harpooned on the following day, and these were the +only two captured by the expedition during their stay in the Arctic +regions. Walrus steaks, from this date, were for some time in great +demand, whilst the liver was pronounced to be perfectly excellent, and +even superior to pig's fry! + +As a rule these animals are exceedingly difficult to kill, for in +addition to their enormously thick skulls and coating of almost +impenetrable skin and blubber, they are excessively tenacious of life. A +rifle bullet, although a walrus may eventually die of the wound, is more +than useless, as it will effectually scare him away, and thus all chance +of securing him is lost. The only sure way of succeeding in their +capture is by the use of the harpoon, and this weapon of course is only +available at short distances. + +During the temporary delays of the ships in the ice, amusement was not +forgotten, and we often had rare fun. It is a very important point in an +Arctic expedition to keep the men constantly employed and interested, +otherwise they would, more especially when their onward progress was +checked, be subject to gloomy moods and fits of despondency. Care, +therefore, should be taken to guard against these feelings. + +Amongst the numerous games purchased by the expedition before leaving +England was a football, which, on occasions of this sort and when the +ice would admit of it, would be produced, and a game kept up with great +spirit, though with an utter disregard of all orthodox rules. So long as +Jack got his kick, no matter in which direction the ball was propelled, +he was satisfied! Officers and men would alike mingle in the game, every +one determined to carry out the one grand object, namely, that of +enjoying themselves. Skating and sliding on the ice were also +accomplishments that afforded much pleasure and amusement, and were +freely indulged in by all, irrespective of age or rank. Sometimes our +Eskimo dogs would be taken out on the floe and harnessed to an empty +sledge, whilst some would-be dog driver, anxious to attain proficiency +as a whip, would make a start, and be seen tearing round the floe, +regardless of weak ice and pools of water, at the rate of ten miles an +hour, returning on board thoroughly drenched, but happy in the knowledge +that he had succeeded as a dog driver. + +Perhaps a few words here in connection with the dogs would not be out of +place. As I have before stated, they lived almost entirely in the fore +part of the vessel, and were consequently especial favourites with the +men, by whom they were fed and greatly petted. Of course they were all +named, their appellations being more characteristic than euphonious. +They rejoiced in such names as Ginger, so called on account of his +colour; Bruin, because he was minus a tail, having been deprived of this +appendage in his youthful days; Boss-eye, on account of the obliquity of +his vision, or as our men expressed it, because "his eyes were rove +cross-jack brace fashion;" Sore-sides, in consequence of the unfortunate +dog when it came on board suffering from an unhealed wound in its side. +Sallie, Topsy, Sly-boots, Jessie, etc., were the names of others. + +The only English dog in the expedition was my black retriever Nellie, an +old shipmate and companion, who took no pains to conceal her displeasure +and disgust at the introduction of such, in her estimation, a rough and +rowdy pack; nor was she ever afterwards induced to cultivate their +acquaintance. As she lived in the after part of the ship, she viewed +with a jealous eye any attempts on the part of the Eskimo dogs to +intrude on what she regarded as her own domain, and would invariably fly +at and drive them forward. + +Shortly after their appearance on board, and long before they had been +used for sledging purposes, a species of rabies, or dog madness, broke +out amongst them, which very quickly and alarmingly thinned their +number. The first symptom of this disease would generally be the dog +falling down in a fit, from which it would partially recover only to +rush about in a frantic manner as if totally deprived of all sense and +feeling. On some occasions they would rush into the water and be +drowned, and at other times wander away from the ship to be no more +seen; sometimes their sufferings would terminate in death, whilst at +other times they would be shot in order to release the poor things from +their pain. + +All expeditions have experienced the same kind of disease and mortality +amongst their dogs, for which there has hitherto been no remedy. It is a +curious fact that hydrophobia is unknown among the Eskimo, and no man +bitten by one of these dogs during a mad fit has ever suffered permanent +injury from its effects. Frequently whilst employed sledging, they have +been attacked by violent fits, resembling cramp, completely prostrating +them, causing them to roll over on their sides and foam at the mouth. On +these occasions they would be freed from the sledge, which after a time +they would follow, when they would be reharnessed and proceed as if +nothing had occurred. + +Dr. Colan devoted much of his time to the investigation of the nature +and causes of this disease, and I have no doubt his researches will +throw a flood of light over this matter that will prove of the greatest +value to succeeding expeditions in the preservation of their dogs, and +be the means of baffling the attacks of this insidious disease. + +The dogs when employed in dragging a sledge are always harnessed in line +abreast, and never, as generally supposed, ahead of each other in tandem +fashion. + +From six to ten or a dozen dogs form a team. They are capable of +dragging as much as one hundred and fifty pounds per dog; but this is +rather an excessive load and should not be exacted for any length of +time. So strong and enduring are they that they will frequently perform +a journey, over smooth ice, of twenty-five or thirty miles a day with +this load; but with light loads and level ice they have been known to +travel as much as seventy and even a hundred miles in one day. + +There is something very exhilarating and exciting about dog sledging, so +long as the weather is fine, temperature not too low, smooth level ice +to travel over, and a light sledge to drag. But let all these various +conditions be reversed, let the weather be thick and foggy, or a gale of +wind blowing with a blinding snow-drift, a temperature of 50° below +zero, rough hummocky ice to travel over, and a heavily laden sledge to +be dragged by a tired and obstinate team, then dog sledging cannot be +regarded as either a comfortable or desirable amusement. + +The sensation of dashing along on a light sledge at the rate of ten +miles an hour, the fine snow flying into one's face as the dogs tear +through it pell-mell in their headlong career, or perhaps plunging down +the side of a steep ravine when the utmost caution is required to +prevent the sledge from capsizing and toppling over on the top of the +dogs, is both novel and delightful. But when obstacles such as hummocks +and deep snow-drifts have to be encountered, especially with a low +temperature, the reverse is the case. Directly the sledge receives the +slightest check from either of these causes, the dogs lie down, and look +at you in the most provoking manner. It is no use having recourse to the +whip, for not all the flogging in the world will make them advance until +the obstacle has been removed, or the sledge carried over the +difficulties that had retarded its progress. + +The whip is the main feature in dog driving. To be a good driver it is +therefore necessary to use this implement in a dexterous manner. The +lash is a thong of sealskin about eighteen or twenty feet long, attached +to a short handle of about twelve inches in length. It is, in the hands +of an experienced driver, a formidable weapon, the punishment that the +dogs receive from it being often very severe. They are guided solely by +it, and it is amusing to witness the cunning and intelligence displayed +by the outside dogs, who invariably get more than their fair share of +the lash, in dodging under the lines of the others and emerging +somewhere in the midst of the team in order to escape from its terrible +infliction. Another very annoying and distressing piece of work +connected with dog sledging is clearing the lines, which in a short time +become in a grievously entangled state from the constant dodging about +of the dogs, and this it must be remembered has to be done with hands +encased in thick woollen mitts, for to bare them would ensure serious +frost-bites. In consequence of the amount of provisions that have of +necessity to be carried for the use of the dogs, it is almost impossible +to use them for long journeys. None were employed during the expedition +by any of the extended sledge parties; but for short journeys, or when +dispatch was required, they were invaluable. + + +FOOTNOTE: + + [1] "Flinching" is a whaling term for cutting up a whale or walrus. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +SLOW PROGRESS THROUGH THE ICE. + + + "He rose, the coast and country to survey, + Anxious and eager to discover more. + It looked a wild uncultivated shore, + But whether human kind or beast alone + Possessed the new-found region was unknown." + + VIRGIL. + +_Thursday, August 12th._--Early this morning, the floes opening +slightly, an attempt was made to proceed; but it was a futile one, the +ice remaining perfectly impenetrable. This delay is naturally causing +anxiety, as our fuel is rapidly disappearing, from the constant demand +for steam, and the navigable season is also as rapidly waning, young ice +forming alongside the ship nearly an inch in thickness. Patience, +combined with caution and perseverance, is an indispensable +qualification for an Arctic navigator. At the same time he must be +prepared, when occasion offers, to make a bold dash. Quick determination +and an ever-ready eye to seize upon any available opportunity are also +necessary attributes of the explorer who hopes to achieve success in ice +navigation. Without them failure is inevitable. + +In the forenoon both ships were slightly nipped. We succeeded in +unshipping our rudder in time; but the "Discovery," receiving the +squeeze more astern, had her rudder very severely injured. She was +enabled, however, to patch it up sufficiently for temporary use and thus +avoid the necessity of shifting it. In the afternoon the ice began to +move to the eastward, enabling us once more to make a start. Hastily +shipping our rudders we got under weigh, and having bored through a few +streams of ice emerged into a fine lead of water extending between the +land and the pack. Passing Cape D'Urville, we opened a large inlet. At +its head was a deep ravine, containing two large glaciers which, running +respectively from N.E. and N.W., met and formed one terminal face. At 9 +P.M. the southern extreme of Dobbin Bay, called Cape Hawks, was passed. +This is a magnificent promontory, which has, with some propriety, been +compared, in appearance, to the Rock of Gibraltar. + +It was a beautifully calm night as both ships silently rounded this bold +headland, the water so still and unruffled that it was actually used as +an artificial horizon for the purpose of taking an astronomical +observation. The Cape itself towered over our heads as we steamed past, +its reflection in the still quiet water being clearly visible, whilst +deep ravines on either side stretched away apparently for miles into the +interior, until lost amid the snow-shining mountains in the far +distance. A large glacier at the head of the bay showed out prominently +as it glistened in the light of a bright midnight sun, the bay itself +being covered with an icy sheet, broken only by a few long low bergs, +generated, in all probability, from the selfsame glacier. The few clouds +that were visible in the almost cloudless sky presented an exquisite +iridescence rarely witnessed, exhibiting clearly defined bright +colours, extending in bands in a horizontal direction, the reflection +of which in the clear pellucid water materially enhanced the beauties of +the landscape. Such a scene, with all its surroundings, could scarcely +be equalled in beauty, certainly not surpassed, even in sunny Italy. + +[Illustration: CAPE HAWKS.] + +Making the ships fast to an iceberg, preparations for landing a large +depôt of provisions, similar to the one established at the Cary Islands, +were immediately commenced. A jolly-boat, obtained from the "Valorous," +was also deposited here. We have now two large depôts, besides boats, +established in our rear, sufficient to sustain a large party for many +days, should any untoward accident befall our ship. + +Whilst engaged in these operations, an adjacent island--Washington +Irving Island--was visited, and a large cairn erected on its summit. Our +surprise may be imagined when, on reaching the top, the remains of an +old cairn were discovered. At first its origin was attributed to Hayes, +who visited the island in 1860, but on closer inspection evidences of a +construction at a much earlier date were palpable, the stones of which +it was composed being covered with lichen, denoting great age. Hayes, in +the published account of his voyage, makes no mention either of having +seen this cairn or of having built one on the island. It was, +undoubtedly, the work of white men's hands; the object and necessity for +building cairns is unknown, and therefore not practised, by the Eskimos. +How then came this structure in such a remote and desolate part of the +world? Can it be the work of some obscure navigator of years gone by, +who erected this monument as a memento of his visit, but who never +returned to relate the results of his adventurous voyage? This must for +ever remain a mystery! + +Of course it was quickly demolished and its site subjected to a very +careful search, in the hopes of discovering some record or clue by which +its history might be ascertained; but nothing was found, and we were +forced to content ourselves with reconstructing it on a larger scale, +and depositing a record at its base detailing the movements of the +expedition. + +The depôt having been landed, the ships were moved a little farther up +the bay, although, to effect this, we were compelled to have recourse to +powder, in order to "blast" a passage through the ice. The recent +tracks of a bear were observed on the floe, being the only indications +of the presence of these animals that we had observed since leaving +Melville Bay. It naturally caused a little excitement amongst our +sportsmen and would-be bear slayers. + +The formation of the land around Dobbin Bay appeared curiously +contorted; the stratifications dipping, in some places, to the westward +at an angle of about 18°, whilst at others they assumed a perfectly +horizontal direction. This irregularity of the strata may probably be +accounted for by the trap, or other primary rock, forcing its way +upwards through the limestone formation. Where these contortions appear +the colour changes from the sombre grey of the surrounding limestone to +a bright red and brownish hue. + +In the afternoon, it being deemed expedient for the safety of the ships +that they should be docked, the requisite instructions were given, and +in four hours they were securely placed in two large commodious docks, +cut out of the solid floe. + +The process of docking is rendered necessary to prevent a ship from +being crushed between two floes should she be so unfortunate as to be +placed between them with the whole force of the pack driving against the +outer one. This operation is frequently necessary whilst following the +land-ice, although in these days of steam it is not so frequently +practised as of old. + +Our ice-saw crews had previously been organized, and, as it is +absolutely necessary that the work of construction should be carried out +with the utmost expedition, the whole of the officers and ship's company +were stationed so as to take an active part in the proceedings. The +instant the order was given for "all hands to cut dock" a most animated +scene ensued. Triangles were quickly erected, saws placed in position, +the dock measured and marked out by boarding-pikes placed at the several +corners, and every one working as if their lives depended upon their own +individual exertions. Three persons only were left on board the +ship--namely, one officer in charge of the deck, the engineer at the +engines, and a man at the helm--and, as it was necessary to keep the +ship constantly moving so as to avoid pieces of ice, and also to place +her in a good position for being docked, these three had no sinecure +offices. + +Occasionally a jet of water, followed by a loud report and a shower of +fragmentary ice, showed that powder was used to shatter the larger +pieces of ice that had been cut, but unless great care is taken in the +use of this explosive, it is liable to damage the sides of the dock. + +This was our first attempt at dock cutting, which will account for the +time occupied in its construction. Ordinarily the work should be +completed in about a couple of hours. When two or more ships are in +company time is saved by employing all hands to cut one dock large +enough to take in all the ships. + +The diagram on next page will serve to illustrate the system employed by +us whilst engaged in making one of these docks. The last triangular +piece of ice that is taken out--namely, the portion marked on the plan +by the letters C B F--is removed intact, and being placed across the +entrance serves to close the dock and thus keep out all stray pieces of +ice. + +After four hours of such work as dock cutting entails, it was poor +comfort for us to return on board wet, cold, and hungry, only to find +that our fires had been allowed to burn out, and that we could neither +get a cup of tea to refresh ourselves with, nor a chance of warming +ourselves at the stove.[1] The Eskimo dogs, being turned out on the floe +and tied to one of our anchor lines, made night hideous by their dreary +and lamentable wailing. + +[Illustration: PLAN OF ICE DOCK. + + No. 1 saw cuts from A to B 200 ft. + No. 2 " " D to C 200 ft. + No. 3 " " B to C 35 ft., and then on to F 115 ft. + No. 4 saw cuts from F to D 120 ft., and, if necessary, from E to F 48 + ft. + + DIMENSIONS OF DOCK. + + Length 200 ft. + Breadth, at entrance 65 " + Ditto, at head 35 "] + +For two days were the ships kept close prisoners; but on Sunday, August +15th, as soon as divine service was finished, a large party of men was +actively engaged in cutting and blasting a passage between the floe in +which we were imprisoned and the shore, for a lead of water had been +observed in the channel which we were naturally desirous of reaching. +Although Sunday was as much as possible observed as a day of rest, it +was quite out of the question to a party situated as we were altogether +to abstain from work on the Sabbath. Our navigable season, we knew, was +a short one; no opportunity could we afford to lose; and therefore we +were compelled to work as much on Sunday as on week-days should +circumstances arise which would make it necessary for us to do so. After +about nine hours' hard work we succeeded in making a passage +sufficiently broad for the ships to pass through. Our last explosion was +a most effective one; no less than eight blasting charges, or torpedoes, +were exploded simultaneously--these varied in size from five to twelve +pound charges. + +[Illustration: "THE MOANING OF THE TIED."] + +The result of this, designated by the men, "feu de joy" was wonderful; +the floe split and cracked in all directions, enabling us with our long +ice points and poles to clear a splendid channel. Hauling the ships out +of dock, we steamed through the passage and into a fine stream of water +round Cape Louis Napoleon. So narrow, however, was our channel that in +rounding the point, to our great dismay, the "Discovery" grounded. A +delay at this moment might have proved fatal to us, and it was therefore +with no small amount of satisfaction, after a short detention, that we +observed her again afloat. Our joy at being again on the move was +short-lived. A few hours sufficed to bring us to the edge of a field of +ice, to penetrate which seemed utterly impossible. To cut a dock in such +ice, the floes being from ten to twenty feet in thickness, was also out +of the question, even had we been provided with saws sufficiently long +to do so. Blasting was resorted to, and by this means we were enabled to +secure the ship in a small indentation in the ice that afforded some +slight protection. So high was the ice that our boats, hanging from the +midship davits on the outside of the ship, had to be turned inboard to +prevent their being crushed. For three days were we kept in a state of +feverish excitement without being able to make any progress, and yet +constantly moving the ship to avoid destruction from drifting bergs and +closing floes. + +The shore was frequently visited, and the heights of Mount Joy and Cape +Hayes ascended; but always the same scene met our view to northward--an +impassable plain of ice. + +Twice in one day were the ships nearly destroyed. A large iceberg that +was aground close to us, and therefore protecting us from the pack, +suddenly floated and drifted away. This released a large floe to which +we were secured, and with which we drifted down rapidly towards another +large berg that remained aground. It was an anxious time for us, for in +five minutes, unless we could move out of the way, we must be inevitably +crushed between the two. All hands were quickly summoned, a line laid +out astern and made fast to some large hummocks, and by this we +fortunately succeeded in hauling the ship clear; but only just in time, +for as our bowsprit cleared the berg, the floe came into contact with it +with such irresistible force that hummock was piled upon hummock in a +truly alarming manner. Had we been caught, nothing short of a miracle +could have saved us. + +The noise of the ice as it squeezed against the berg was anything but +pleasant to listen to; but still it was better than hearing our own +timbers crashing to pieces in the same manner, and we all experienced a +strong feeling of relief when the danger was past. + +Little rest was enjoyed by any on these days during which we were +subjected to the wayward will of the pack. Unshipping and replacing the +rudder, and lifting and lowering the screw, were duties that had to be +carried out several times during each day, and, although this sort of +work is rather depressing and irksome, the spirits of the crew never +flagged. They were always ready, cheerful, and willing. No matter what +duty they were called upon to perform, it was invariably carried out in +the same zealous, hearty manner that was so conspicuously manifested +during the whole period of the absence of the expedition as to elicit +the unbounded praise and confidence of their leader. + +On the 19th of August the ice slackened sufficiently to enable us to +proceed, and on that evening, to the intense delight of every one, we +succeeded in rounding Cape Fraser. + +During the last three weeks we had advanced exactly ninety miles, or at +the rate of about four and a quarter miles a day. This cannot be +considered a rapid rate of travelling, yet to accomplish even this +necessitated a constant and vigilant look-out. + +Cape Fraser is a bold promontory some thousand feet in height, +terminating in a short projecting point of land about two hundred feet +above the level of the sea. Above the talus appeared numerous caves in +the cliffs, a peculiarity noticed for the first time, and the summit was +studded with irregularities that, to an imaginative mind, might be +perverted into gigantic beings, animals, or castellated towers. On one +of these ridges was a heap of stones supposed to represent the "Twelve +Apostles," and was so marked on the chart; but as we could never +distinguish more than half the number at one time from any point of +bearing, it was generally supposed on board that they adhered to true +man-of-war regulations, and only appeared in their "watch on deck," half +the number belonging of course to the watch below! + +At 10 P.M., being again temporarily stopped, the ships were secured in a +little harbour called Maury Bay. During our detention in the vicinity of +Cape Fraser, we were able to confirm the observations made by Dr. +Bessels of the "Polaris," relative to the meeting of two tides at or +about this point. This fact materially strengthens the argument in +favour of the insularity of Greenland, for it has been deduced from a +series of tidal observations obtained by us that the tide to the +northward of Cape Fraser--that is, the tide in Kennedy and Robeson +Channels--is undoubtedly the same as the North Atlantic one, and +therefore flows along the northern coast of Greenland. + +Contrary to what might generally be expected, we did not encounter any +very great accumulation of broken up ice in consequence of the meeting +of these two tides: not more than would be caused by the fact of the +channel decreasing in size to the northward at this point, and therefore +offering greater obstruction to the ice whilst drifting northward, but +facilitating its general drift, which is to the southward. + +From the summit of Cape John Barrow, which forms one extreme of the +little bay in which we were secured, we obtained a good view, and one +which delighted and gladdened our hearts. + +Northwards we could see as far as Cape L. von Buch; between us leads of +water, although covered with much loose ice. To the eastward we could +plainly distinguish Cape Constitution, with a large sheet of water along +its base; but to get to it we should have had to penetrate a large +expanse of pack. This pool of water was in all probability similar to +one seen by Morton in the same place in 1855, and reported by him as an +"open Polar sea," on which many imaginative theories have been based! + +Our return to the ship was not accomplished without much difficulty, in +consequence of our little harbour of refuge having filled with drifting +ice, during the time we were on shore, which beset our boat. We were +therefore compelled to haul and drag it over and through innumerable +fragments of ice, reaching the ship wet and fatigued, but delighted with +the intelligence we possessed and the prospect of pushing on. + +_Friday, August 20th._--At one o'clock this morning, being the top of +high water, we made another start. + +Taking advantage of the different broad lanes of water, we steamed +rapidly past Cape Norton Shaw, and opened out Scoresby Bay--a grand +harbour that would suit admirably for a ship's winter quarters, provided +animal life existed. From the appearance of the land we imagined that +game would be found in large quantities. A perfect cone-shaped hill on +the north-west side is a very prominent feature of this bay. Indeed, the +entire coast along which we are passing is composed of long ranges of +hills more or less coniform, varying from one to two thousand feet in +height. The coast line is very imperfectly delineated on our charts, the +distance between the various bays and headlands are erroneous, and the +positions are wrong; the error always being that they are placed too +much to the northward. + +Off Cape McClintock we had another narrow escape from being severely +nipped, in consequence of attempting to pass through a channel between +two closing floes. Although jammed for a short time, the pressure was +not very great, and, the nip easing, the ship was released. Passing Cape +Collinson we were again obliged to make fast to a large floe, as all the +leads to the northward had closed up, thereby preventing farther +progress. + +The ice was moving rapidly to the southward--the whole pack drifting +bodily--at the rate of from one and a half to two knots an hour. The +floe to which we were secured was kept stationary by a couple of +grounded icebergs that effectually resisted all its efforts to extricate +itself. This rapid drift seemed to indicate the presence of a "North +Water," or at any rate a very loose pack. + +Advantage was taken of our temporary delay to establish a small depôt of +provisions, consisting of two hundred and forty rations, near Cape +Collinson, for the use of a travelling party which, according to +existing arrangements, would be dispatched to the southward by the +"Discovery" during the following year, for the purpose of visiting Cape +Isabella, and bringing up any letters that might have been deposited +there for us. + +_Saturday, August 21st._--Lanes of water appearing continuous to the +northward, we got under weigh at half-past two this morning; but after +two or three hours' boring and working under steam and sail we were +forced to relinquish the attempt, being unable to penetrate the pack in +the direction we wished to proceed. We therefore returned to our former +anchorage, under the lea of a friendly berg, the ice continuing to drift +south with marvellous rapidity. + +Whilst detained here we were assailed by some furious squalls from the +S.E., accompanied by a heavy fall of snow. During one of these the +"Discovery" was blown away from her anchors, and it was with no little +difficulty that she was again secured to the floe in safety. Thinking we +should be able to reach some open water to the northward by the removal +of the large floe to which we were fast, both ships' companies were +employed in sawing off a large piece of it, which, impinging on one of +the stranded icebergs, would, it was thought, release the floe if +detached. The distance to cut through was one thousand feet. +Notwithstanding the magnitude of the undertaking, every one set to work +with a will and resolution that betokened confidence in being able to +succeed in anything that was required of them. + +Before the work was fairly commenced the ice appeared to slack to the +eastward, and the captain, abandoning his former intention, determined +to seek a passage through the pack instead of hugging the coast. + +Getting under weigh at 9.30 P.M., we bored through a large extent of +slack ice, into a fine piece of open water, which, when reached, we +found possessed no outlet. It was a perfect salt-water lake surrounded +by ice. In this we were obliged to dodge about under sail, waiting +patiently for the ice to open and thus allow us a free passage. + +As we proceed northwards the ice appears to be heavier and more +formidable, and animal life seems to be getting more scarce. Few birds +are seen. Occasionally the head of an inquisitive seal is protruded out +of the water, but immediately withdrawn (if not killed) on being saluted +by half a dozen bullets from the rifles of our keen and enthusiastic +sportsmen, who are for ever on the watch to display their prowess in +their endeavours to procure food for our dogs, by shooting these +animals, who thus pay for their curiosity with their lives. + +We appeared to be leaving the region of icebergs, for, although those +met with lately were of great size, they were few in number. The one +affording us protection this forenoon was no less than six hundred feet +in length. + + +FOOTNOTE: + + [1] An amusing story is related of one of the officers. Whilst + engaged in cutting the dock, he, without thinking, put his pipe in + his trousers pocket, so as to enable him the more readily to work at + his ice-saw. Feeling, after a time, a little warm about his legs, he + attributed it to his exertions in working the saw, until a sharp and + intolerable pain caused him to put his hand into his pocket. This + speedily afforded an explanation: his pipe, being still alight, had + burnt a hole through his trousers and shirt and was burning his leg! + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + +KENNEDY CHANNEL. + + + _2nd Keeper._--"I'll stay above the hill so both may shoot." + + _1st Keeper._--"That cannot be: the noise of thy cross-bow will scare + the herd, and so my shoot is lost. Here stand we both, and aim we at + the best."--_Henry VI._ + + "Within a long recess there lies a bay, + An island shades it from the rolling sea, + And forms a port secure for ships to ride, + Broke by the jutting land on either side." + + VIRGIL. + +_Sunday, August 22nd._--The rapidity of the changes that take place in +these icy seas is almost inconceivable. In a few hours from being +helplessly imprisoned by a dense pack of ice, we were actually plying, +under steam and sail, in a vast expanse of water containing only a few +loose streams of ice, through which we had no difficulty in penetrating. +Our predictions were indeed realized, and to a greater extent than we +had even anticipated. We had reached a "North Water," in which we were +sensible of a very perceptible motion on board the ship. It is true that +the pack, apparently as solid and as impenetrable as ever, extended +along the west side of Kennedy Channel; but to the northward and along +the east side was a clear and open sea, free of ice, with its surface +agitated by the fresh northerly wind that was blowing, and rising and +falling with true oceanic undulations. + +Unfortunately for us, at least so far as making headway was concerned, +the wind was not only very strong but directly ahead, compelling us to +beat to windward under steam and fore and aft sails. We consoled +ourselves, however, with the hope that the same wind would blow all the +ice to the southward, and thus enable us to make good progress. The +temperature being some six or seven degrees below freezing point caused +us to feel the sharp wind in a very unpleasant manner, and made both the +crow's-nest and bridge very disagreeable places of resort. The pleasure +of feeling that we were really doing good work was, however, sufficient +compensation for the discomfort that was felt. + +Stretching over to the eastern side of the channel we passed close to +Crozier Island, having Cape Constitution full in view. Its appearance +coincides exactly with the description given by Morton. + +This cape is the northern extreme of a bay called, by Kane, Lafayette +Bay. It is steep and precipitous, and has no ice-foot adhering. Indeed, +the base of the headland, as well as the adjacent one, Cape +Independence, has the appearance of having been partially undermined by +the action of the sea, thus forming an overhanging terrace, up which it +would be impossible to ascend. Morton found its ascent totally +impracticable, on account of the steep and rugged nature of the cliff. +We were unable to detect any signs of a _mer de glace_ over this land, +although a light tinge along the summit to the southward of Lafayette +Bay would lead one to suppose that it existed. This, however, was the +only indication of an ice-cap that was perceived, and it was one on +which little or no reliance was placed. + +The positions of the various points along this coast are very fairly +correct, being as nearly as possible in the latitudes ascribed to them +by Dr. Bessels of the "Polaris," affording a striking contrast to the +places on the opposite side of the channel, where the positions are so +egregiously inaccurate. The deep inlet on the American chart called Carl +Ritter Bay was not to be seen. The only indentation in the land in its +assigned position was Richardson Bay, which we must naturally conclude +was the one seen and named Carl Ritter by Dr. Hayes. + +It was a curious fact that, whereas the land on the west side of the +channel was completely covered with snow, the land on the east side was +entirely free. This was not the only peculiar feature in which the two +sides of the channel differed. Although apparently of the same +geological formation, there was a great dissimilarity between the +physical appearance of the land on either side. That on the east was +flat and table-topped, rising to the height of about one thousand feet, +separated into hills by broad valleys, whilst the stratification of the +cliffs was regular and horizontal. That on the west side was, on the +contrary, composed of conical-shaped hills, rising to an altitude of +from two to four thousand feet, and intersected by deep ravines, whilst +the stratifications were so distorted that the dip varied as much as +from 10° to 45°. + +Whilst the land on the east side appeared to have undergone a regular +and steady upheaval, that on the west seemed to have been raised +suddenly, the deep ravines between the numerous hills resembling the +beds of ancient and extinct glaciers. + +_Monday, August 23rd._--A glorious run has been made during the last +twenty-four hours, assisted, for a short time, as we have been, by a +strong southerly wind; but alas! by 10 A.M. we arrived at the end of our +tether! + +Passing the entrance to Bessels Bay, we reached Cape Morton, from whence +extended right across Hall Basin our implacable enemy, the ice--solid +floes of immense area stretching to the northward as far as the eye +could reach, with no opening, no outlet of any description, and no +indications of water. + +Polaris Bay was ahead of us, and we could plainly discern the position +of the Americans' winter quarters; but with no hopes, for the present, +of our reaching so far. We must again, as we have so often had to do +before, exercise our patience, and wait for a more favourable +opportunity for pushing on. The strong southerly wind now blowing will, +in all probability, be succeeded by a calm or a breeze from the +northward, either of which will have the effect of opening the ice. The +"Discovery" having landed a small depôt of two hundred and forty rations +at Cape Morton, for the use of travelling parties that will hereafter be +dispatched for the purpose of exploring Petermann Fiord, both ships made +sail and beat back to Bessels Bay, where we dropped anchor in seven +fathoms, just inside, and under the protection of Hannah Island. + +Bessels Bay is a long and narrow indentation in the land, extending in a +N.W. and S.E. direction, having numerous small glaciers on either side, +the majority of them discharging ones. The bay is in consequence nearly +choked with small bergs. + +This bay or fiord gives one the idea of having been originally the bed +of some large glacier, now extinct, whilst Hannah Island, which lies +directly across its mouth, has every appearance of having been its +terminal moraine, not only from its position, but also from its +composition, for it consists of an immense heap of pebbles and drift, +possessing apparently no determined basis, no underlying rock. + +We were also able to observe here the undoubted _mer de glace_ under +which Greenland is supposed to be buried, and whose outpourings in this +locality find their escape in Petermann Fiord and Bessels Bay. + +A few eider-ducks, a seal, and some dovekies, with an ivory gull, were +seen to-day. + +Captain Feilden and Mr. Parr landed on the northern side of the bay, +and, ascending a high hill, obtained a good and unobstructed view to the +northward. Their report was very desponding--ice, nothing but ice, as +far as they could see. + +From what we can now observe, the land on the western side of Hall Basin +appears to end abruptly somewhere about Cape Union, and does not +continue to the northward, as represented in the last American Chart. I +put no belief in the land reported to have been seen by some of the men +of the "Polaris," and named President Land. Should the land terminate, +as I anticipate, in about lat. 83° N. our chance of reaching a high +latitude will of course be much reduced, although we shall have a grand +field of exploration to the eastward and westward. + +In the evening the captain and myself visited Hannah Island, and erected +a cairn, in which a record detailing our movements was deposited, on its +summit, in the most conspicuous place about the centre of the island. +Here we had an uninterrupted view to the northward; but what we saw +only confirmed the report brought on board in the earlier part of the +day. The western side of the channel appeared free of ice as far as Cape +Lieber, and a lane of water was visible extending from us as far as this +cape. By this stream of water appears our only chance of getting on. + +_Tuesday, August 24th._--The captain left the ship early this morning to +ascend the hill immediately above Cape Morton (two thousand feet in +height), in order to ascertain from the nature of the ice what our +prospects of pushing on were likely to be. During his absence a haul +with the dredge was obtained, but with unimportant results: the +continual movement of icebergs in the bay, all more or less aground, +would hardly admit of much organic life at the bottom. Fossils abounded +in the limestone on shore, and a large collection of specimens was made. + +At noon the captain was observed, in his boat, off Cape Morton, with the +signal flying for the ships "to weigh." + +His orders were speedily executed; and, having picked him up, we were +soon running quickly across to the western side. He gave us the very +pleasing information that from the summit of Cape Morton he had observed +a magnificent lead of water along the west coast, and extending in all +probability as far as Cape Beechey. This was indeed delightful +intelligence, and served to raise the social barometer many degrees. + +Our coal was rapidly diminishing, and we knew that many more days of +steaming such as those we had lately had would reduce our fuel to such +an extent that we could hope to do little more; for without steam a +vessel in these latitudes would indeed be helpless. + +11 P.M.--Oh, the hopes and disappointments that we poor Arctic explorers +have to endure! First of all a confiding anticipation in the future +makes us joyous and expectant, and then we are plunged into the lowest +depths of despondency. + +Two hours ago we were steaming through a grand expanse of water, looking +forward with confidence to reaching, in a few hours, Cape Beechey, or +perhaps even Cape Union, both being distinctly visible ahead, whilst +Capes Brevoort, Sumner, and Stanton were in sight on our starboard bow. + +Passing Cape Baird, however, we were again met by our insatiable enemy, +the ice, which defied all our efforts to penetrate it. + +We are now slowly picking our way across Lady Franklin Strait towards +Cape Bellot, in the hope of being able to reach some place of security +where we can remain patiently until a northerly wind shall have cleared +a passage for us. Whilst crossing Kennedy Channel we obtained a +magnificent view up Petermann Fiord. It is an extensive opening, with no +land visible at its head. This is a geographical problem which we hope +we shall soon be able to solve. It is difficult to determine at present +whether Lady Franklin Strait is really a strait or a deep inlet. We are +inclined to the latter belief. This is another question we hope will +soon be satisfactorily settled. + +_Wednesday, August 25th._--At one o'clock this morning, whilst threading +our way amongst the ice-floes that bordered the coast, a herd of musk +oxen was observed browsing quietly on an adjacent hill. Such an +opportunity for obtaining fresh meat was not to be disregarded. A +shooting party was quickly organized, and, whilst the boats were being +prepared and the hunters getting ready their rifles, the ships were +taken into a beautifully snug and land-locked harbour, protected at its +mouth by a large island, situated on the northern coast of Lady Franklin +Bay. + +Here the anchors were let go, and the sportsmen despatched in quest of +the game. + +Separating into three distinct parties on landing, we advanced +cautiously towards the spot where they were last seen grazing, hoping to +be able to surround and capture the entire herd. Not only did we all +enter keenly into the sport, but our mouths watered at the prospect of +again indulging in fresh meat. We pictured to ourselves smoking-hot +beefsteaks and savoury calf's liver, dainties that we had for some time +been strangers to, being prepared for us after our return to the ship, +never even dreaming of a chance of returning empty-handed. + +The disposition of our force was well calculated, for the musk oxen +being alarmed, in all probability by the blowing off of steam from one +of the ships, started in full flight in the direction of a deep ravine. +Here they were met by a couple of the hunters, who discharging their +rifles dropped two of the herd. The remainder turned and dashed up the +side of a steep hill, but only to be met by two more sportsmen, who made +such good use of their time and weapons, that they succeeded in shooting +the remainder, seven in number. + +One of the first brought down was the bull of the herd, a noble fellow; +but so tenacious of life that several shots had to be expended, at a +very short range, before he bit the dust. + +Elated with our success, and having sent back to the ship for assistance +in conveying the meat on board, we commenced skinning, cleaning, and +cutting up the animals, so as to guard against the possibility of any +delay in doing so being the means of tainting the flesh with the +disagreeable musky odour. This, in consequence of the scarcity of knives +amongst the party, was a long and tedious process; however, by nine +o'clock we had the satisfaction of seeing our "morning's bag" safely on +board, amounting altogether to 2,124 lbs. of good fresh meat. Not a bad +morning's work! + +[Illustration: MUSK OXEN.] + +These animals, from peculiarities they possess, are placed in a genus +between the sheep and the ox, and are called _ovibos moschatus_. They +are only met with in high latitudes, although traces of them, it is +reported, have been seen as far south as 59° N. lat., but they are +rarely seen in any numbers lower than 67° N. lat. + +They have been seen, and shot, in large numbers, by the various search +expeditions wintering at and about Melville Island, and they were also +obtained on the opposite side of Kennedy Channel by the "Polaris" in +1872. The crew of this latter vessel succeeded in shooting twenty-six +during the twelve months they passed in this latitude. They are +gregarious, usually wandering in small herds, although occasionally +single specimens are found. The herd just obtained by us consisted of +one old bull and four old cows, and two young bulls and two young cows. +They subsist on the scant vegetation of these regions--principally +grasses and lichens--which they scrape up from under the snow, when the +ground is covered. They hardly give one the impression of being very +quick and agile, yet they ascend hills and climb over rocks and rough +surfaces with great ease. They are reputed to be very irascible, and +have frequently been known, when wounded, to attack a hunter and +seriously endanger his life. The horns are very broad, covering the brow +and crown of the head, and meeting at their base. Our bullets appeared +to have no effect when fired at the head. From the bull we obtained no +less than 385 lbs. of meat! + +Finding that the harbour in which the ships were anchored possessed all +the necessary qualifications for rendering the winter quarters of a +vessel in the Arctic Regions comfortable and secure, Captain Nares +selected this spot as the place in which he would leave the "Discovery." +It appeared in every way adapted for this purpose. A secure harbour, +possessing two narrow entrances, with the water so shallow as to +effectually prevent the larger and heavier pieces of ice from drifting +into it, with a neighbourhood covered with a more luxuriant and richer +vegetation than had hitherto been seen, and giving evidences of being +well stocked with game--for, in addition to the musk oxen, numerous and +recent traces of wolves, foxes, hares, and lemmings had been +observed--the place seemed especially suited for passing the winter in; +and its selection as the winter quarters of our consort was never +regretted. + +We all feel that the navigable season is rapidly drawing to a close, and +that very few more days are left us. During the last week the +temperature has never been above the freezing point; and the young ice +has been forming to an alarming extent, even at midday. An advance, if +farther advance is to be made, will be better and more speedily +accomplished with one ship only, than by having two to look after. The +responsibility is lessened, whilst the knowledge that there is another +ship to fall back upon, in case of accidents, removes all anxiety. + +When the decision that the two ships were to part company was +promulgated, it was received with satisfaction, although we were all +sorry to lose the companionship of our numerous friends. The evening was +spent in an interchange of visits, and many a sincere and fervent "God +speed," with a silent but expressive squeeze of the hand, was exchanged +between the officers and the men of the two Arctic ships. + +In order to strengthen our force on board the "Alert," and to have an +extra sledge party for the purpose, if required, of communicating with +our consort, an officer, Lieutenant Rawson, and seven men were received +from the "Discovery;" the only thing that we were able to give in +exchange being 900 lbs. of the musk oxen just procured--a by no means +despicable offering! + +Everything having been satisfactorily arranged, the "Alert" steamed away +from Discovery Harbour on the morning of the 26th, exchanging hearty +cheers with her consort as she passed; she hoisting the signal "May +Providence prosper your efforts," to which we replied "Happy Winter;" +and thus we separated, happy in the knowledge that a safe refuge was +established in our rear, with the unknown before us, fervently praying +for a successful issue to our undertaking. + + + + +CHAPTER X. + +THE CROSSING OF THE THRESHOLD. + + + "And now there came both mist and snow, + And it grew wondrous cold. + And ice, mast high, came floating by, + As green as emerald. + And through the drifts, the snowy cliffs + Did send a dismal sheen; + Nor shapes of men, nor beasts we ken, + The ice was all between. + + * * * * * + + With sloping masts and dripping prow, + As who pursued with yell and blow, + Still treads the shadow of his foe, + And forwards bends his head, + The ship drove fast, loud roared the blast, + And _Northwards_ aye we fled." + + COLERIDGE. + +Now that we are pursuing our solitary journey northwards, we can the +more fully realize that our real work has commenced--the real work +towards the achievement of that success which we all so ardently hope +will crown our efforts. + +Now that we are alone we shall be the more ready to avail ourselves of +every opening in the ice that may present itself, every little chance +that may occur, which we should be unable to do, if hampered with a +second ship. + +We had hardly advanced three miles, in fact were still just inside the +entrance to the harbour, when the ice, closing in round the point, +barred all egress. In endeavouring to steer clear of these fragments, +the ship grounded on a projecting spit off a small island, but sustained +no injury, floating again immediately she was lightened. As farther +advance was out of the question, for the present, in consequence of the +pack having drifted in, the vessel was secured under the lee of a +natural breakwater at the entrance to Discovery Harbour, ready to take +advantage of the first opportunity of making a start that should offer. + +Accompanied by Feilden and Rawson, I made an expedition to Distant Cape, +whence we obtained a good view of Robeson Channel; but it was anything +but an inspiriting one. There appeared to be a perfect block of heavy +ice right across to the Greenland coast, although a few thin blue lines, +denoting streams of water, could be discerned radiating in the pack to +the eastward, but apparently leading to nothing. + +Some terns, _Sterna Arctica_, were obtained on a small island, as also +their young and eggs. The nests were simply little round holes, some in +the snow, having a few small pebbles as a bed. Some knots, _Tringa +Canutius_, were also obtained; but no amount of search was successful in +discovering either the egg or the nest of this bird. + +A fine sheet of water, situated on the breakwater, being frozen over, +afforded our skaters an opportunity of indulging in their favourite +pastime, and of practising both the inside and outside edges to their +hearts' content. + +The following day was also one of enforced idleness, and no movement +could be made with the ship. + +[Illustration: KNOTS.] + +Snow fell heavily, much to our annoyance, as it prevented us from +keeping a perfect watch on the ice in the channel, in consequence of its +density. The ice was being set up Lady Franklin Bay at a great pace. +Once during the day it appeared inclined to open and give us a chance of +proceeding. The skaters and sportsmen were hurriedly called on board; +but before steam could be raised the opportunity was lost. In navigating +these waters it is necessary to be constantly on the alert, and +prepared, at any moment, to take advantage of any chance that may occur; +but with the small quantity of fuel we have remaining, it is also +necessary to economize and husband that essential aid to advance as much +as possible; our fires were therefore always kept low, except when the +engines were actually working. + +A small fragment of driftwood was picked up on the island. It resembled +some hard wood, but was so wasted and worn by attrition that it was +impossible, without subjecting it to microscopic examination, to +determine to what species it belonged. + +The large island off which we were secured, and which forms the main +protection to Discovery Harbour, was named Bellot Island, after the +distinguished young French naval officer who lost his life whilst +zealously prosecuting the search for Sir John Franklin and his ill-fated +companions. + +_Saturday, August 28th._--A thick fog in the morning effectually +frustrated all our hopes of advancing; but clearing up towards midday, +we were rejoiced at seeing several leads through the ice in the +direction of Cape Beechey. + +Steam was quickly raised; but, in attempting to cant, the ship took the +ground, and much to our chagrin and disappointment remained immovable. +This was indeed tantalizing, as we knew by sad experience how capricious +were the motions of the ice, and that every moment was of the utmost +value to us. + +Lightening the ship as much as possible, the rising tide floated her in +about a couple of hours, and at 5 P.M., having hoisted up all our boats, +we were again able to proceed. + +As we rounded the point we hoisted the colours and dipped them three +times as a parting farewell to our consort, who had just time to whip up +the signal "Good luck" before we were finally shut out from each other's +view. + +Rounding Distant Cape, we found the channel full of ice, some of the +floes being very massive and of great extent; but between them existed +narrow lanes of water, in some places choked by loose slack ice, through +which we had little difficulty in penetrating, although at the expense +of our rudder, which was so severely injured by the heavy nature of the +ice as to be rendered almost useless. + +At midnight, when within about a mile of Cape Beechey, ice was +encountered stretching right across the channel and pressing so tightly +in to the land as to form a dead block to our farther advance. We had +then by estimation reached the 82° parallel of latitude. This check was +a great damper to our hopes, especially as no bays, or protection of any +description for the ship from the pack, could be found in our immediate +vicinity. + +Our only resource was to return a few miles to the southward and there, +in a slight indentation of the land, affording little or no protection, +secure the ship to an ice floe, and employ ourselves at once with the +rather heavy operations connected with shifting the rudder. This work +was performed in about three hours. In the mean time, a small herd of +musk oxen having been observed on shore, our sportsmen were despatched +in pursuit, and we soon had the satisfaction of hearing that they had +succeeded in shooting three, the remainder of the herd having escaped +over the hills. This was a very welcome addition to our stock of fresh +meat. Our mizzen-rigging was now literally groaning with the amount of +meat suspended there; for, in addition to the recent accumulation of +musk-ox flesh, the remainder of our sheep, some seven or eight in +number, had been slaughtered and added to the general stock. So hard +were the portions frozen, that they were very truthfully compared to +the legs of mutton and sides of sheep made of wood usually seen hanging +in the front of a butcher's shop in a pantomime! + +The bay in which we had taken refuge was, in consequence of the work +there performed, named "Shift-Rudder Bay." + +_Sunday, August 29th._--At noon we were again under weigh, Captain Nares +having ascended a high hill during the forenoon, from which he had +observed an opening in the pack by which we might proceed. Cape Beechey +was easily rounded; but, in consequence of the floes closing into the +land, we had a very narrow escape of being caught whilst going round +Cape Frederick VII., and it was only by pressing the ship at her utmost +speed that we succeeded in rounding it in safety. Two minutes after we +were round, the floe came into contact with the high steep side of the +cape, crumbling against it and piling up hummock on hummock from the +irresistible force of the outside pressure. What would have been the +fate of our poor little frail ship had she been caught between these two +stupendous works of nature? + +The ice had now assumed a totally different character from any that we +had hitherto seen, being infinitely more massive and heavy. The +thickness was estimated at from eighty to one hundred feet, whilst the +hummocks formed along the shore and round the edges of the floes were +fully twenty-five and thirty feet in height. + +These large hummocks received from us the name of "floe-bergs," the term +being intended to convey the idea of masses of ice more bulky than +ordinary hummocks, and formed in a different way. Some of these huge +fragments that fringed the coast line were fully sixty feet in height, +yet they were _aground_ in some ten and twelve fathoms of water! This +will give some idea of the massive nature of the ice with which we were +contending. The region of icebergs, the creation of land glaciers, had +been passed, and in their place were substituted these floe-bergs, the +production of a floating glacier. + +To contend with this massive ice required the greatest care and +judgment, for little respect is shown to the unfortunate vessel that is +exposed to the fatal embrace of what has been aptly termed by our old +Arctic navigators "ye unmercifull yce." Before midnight the ship was +secured to a large floe in Lincoln Bay, the pack having again closed in +to the land, thereby obstructing our advance. + +The positions of the different bays and headlands on the western side of +Robeson Channel we found strangely at variance with the positions +assigned to them on the latest American chart; indeed, the shore, as +delineated, was quite unrecognizable. The land on the opposite side of +the channel seemed, on the contrary, to be very accurately laid down. + +With the exception of a little lemming (_Myodes torquatus_), captured by +Captain Nares when he landed in the morning, a solitary dovekie (_Uria +grylle_), fluttering about in the ice-encumbered waters, was the only +living thing seen during the day. The first-named little animal was the +first of its species caught alive, and excited considerable interest, +every one being desirous of obtaining a peep at the diminutive little +quadruped. One man, more fortunate than his messmates, was literally +besieged, by those less lucky than himself in seeing the animal, with +numerous questions regarding its appearance. When asked its colour the +man hesitated, finding it difficult to describe; but suddenly +brightening up he said, "Why, _lemon_ colour, of course!" an answer that +appeared quite satisfactory, agreeing, as it did, so well with its name! + +These little mouse-like creatures are the smallest, yet the most +numerous and common, of all quadrupeds in the Arctic regions. They are +extremely pugnacious and fearless, and often attract attention, when +they would otherwise be unobserved, by their shrill cries of rage at an +approaching step. They hibernate in burrows under the snow, and live +during the summer on the scant vegetation of these regions. When roasted +and served up on toast, like sparrows, they were found to be excellent +eating, although provokingly small. + +On the same hill where the capture of this little animal was effected, +our naturalist picked up a marine shell (_Astarte borealis_), about a +mile from the beach, and at least a hundred and fifty feet above the +level of the sea. This shell was in excellent preservation, the +epidermis still adhering, and in a perfect state. + +The apparent freshness of this specimen gave rise to many conjectures +regarding the theory of the upheaval of the land, the evidence pointing +conclusively to its being both recent and rapid. These regions offer a +wide field for the geologist and student of natural history. + +_Monday, August 30th._--During the forenoon, there being no prospect of +pushing forward, a large depôt of provisions, consisting of one thousand +rations, was landed. This depôt was established for the use of +travelling parties from the "Discovery," or from our own ship should it +be determined to despatch any to the southward. It was not without some +difficulty that the heavy casks were transported from the boats to a +suitable position sufficiently removed from the encroachments of the +pack. Their transit was only effected by a nautical process known as +"parbuckling," by which casks and barrels are either hauled up or +lowered down steep inclines. + +On the brow of the hill immediately above the depôt a large cairn was +erected, in which the usual records were deposited; the provisions +themselves being so placed as to form a very conspicuous landmark to any +ship passing to the northward, or to any sledge party travelling along +the coast line. Whilst engaged in these operations, the pack was +observed to slacken considerably, several leads of water opening to the +northward, which we fondly hoped would afford us an easy passage towards +the attainment of that object which was ever uppermost in our thoughts, +and for which we were ready and willing to make any sacrifice--the +object of exploring the unknown region, and of reaching a high northern +latitude. + +Steam was accordingly quickly raised, and another attempt made to +proceed; but alas! having incautiously been tempted by promising lanes +of water to stray farther from the land than had hitherto been our +custom, we were soon hopelessly beset by very heavy ice, of at least +eighty or one hundred feet in thickness, and fully ten feet above the +surface of the water. So high was it that our boats, suspended at the +davits, were seriously endangered, and had in consequence to be "turned +in" to avoid being crushed altogether. We were, fortunately, surrounded +by loose pieces of broken-off ice, which acting as cushions between the +ship and the more massive floes, thereby saved the "Alert" from an +unpleasant nip. As there was no saying when we might be deprived of the +friendly aid of these "buffers," by any sudden movement of the pack, +steam was kept ready in both boilers in order that we might take +immediate advantage of any such motion for the purpose of extricating +our vessel from her very unpleasant and perilous position. + +An anxious night was spent by all on board, and many ineffectual +attempts were made to push our way through cracks in the pack that +appeared to be inclined to open. Sleep was out of the question--indeed, +was hardly thought of--every one being prepared, with his little bag of +necessaries, to abandon the ship when such an order, which seemed +inevitable, should be given. + +On the following day, by dint of much labour, a space was cleared round +the stern of the vessel, which enabled us to ship our rudder, and, the +ice having slackened a little, by constantly steaming ahead and astern +we succeeded in clearing a larger space in which the ship could be +worked, when, boldly attacking the pack, we forced our way through, and +with relieved minds and thankful hearts extricated ourselves from our +dangerous position, and once more secured the ship in Lincoln Bay. The +time occupied in steaming through the pack, a distance of about a mile, +was exactly five hours! + +The ice was observed to be still tightly packed against Cape Union, and +consequently hindered us from pushing on. + +We had much reason to be grateful for our safe deliverance from the +pack, for, shortly after our extrication, a heavy gale sprang up from +the S.W., the effect of which on the ship, beset in such ponderous ice, +must have been disastrous in the extreme, and would in all probability +have been fatal. Ice navigators, however, are not, as a rule, prone to +indulge in ideas as to "what _might_ have occurred had this or that +happened:" their thoughts and minds must be directed entirely to the +present and the future, only too happy and thankful, as the days go by, +to find they still have their own good vessel to sustain them, and carry +them through another day. To our engines we owed a deep debt of +gratitude, for without the powerful aid of steam we should have been +unable, before the gale burst upon us, to have effected our deliverance. + +Towards midnight the gale freshened considerably, snow fell, and the +weather altogether had a very ugly and threatening appearance. We, +however, consoled ourselves with the hope that it would clear the ice +out of the channel, and thus enable us to proceed. The noise of the pack +grinding and squeezing as it was tossed about by a short turbulent sea +was anything but pleasing to listen to, resembling in a measure the +sound created by the dashing of the surf over a rock-bound coast. One +can easily imagine the feelings of those old navigators, in their frail +little barks, which gave rise to the expression that "the irksome noyse +of the yce bred strange conceits among us." Very "irksome" indeed was +that noise to us, and many were the "strange conceits" that we indulged +in as we listened to the soughing of the wind and the crashing of the +ice! + +_Wednesday, September 1st_, must always be regarded, at least by all +those connected with, or interested in, Arctic research, as a red-letter +day in the annals of naval enterprise, and indeed in English history, +for on this day a British man-of-war reached a higher northern latitude +than had ever yet been reached by any ship, and we had the extreme +gratification of hoisting the colours at noon to celebrate the event. + +Never was an ensign hoisted by such a number of eager and willing hands. +All were desirous of participating in this act, and of sharing the +honours of this important proceeding. + +Our success in thus attaining a high position was due entirely to the +S.W. gale, which blew with such fury, that by nine o'clock in the +forenoon the pack was driven so far off the land that a narrow channel +of water was left extending to the northward along the coast line. We +were not long in availing ourselves of this grand opportunity. The ice +anchors were quickly hauled on board, sail was made, and, with the steam +ready in case it should be required, we were soon bowling along at the +rate of ten knots an hour, "and _northwards_ aye we fled." So far had +the pack been blown off the shore, that the channel of water was fully +three miles in breadth. + +It would be impossible to describe the feelings of those on board the +"Alert" at this unexpected piece of good fortune; for the lateness of +the season, combined with the unprecedented solidity of the ice, had in +a measure damped our ardour and forced us to realize the apparent +hopelessness of attaining, this year, a high northern latitude. Eagerly +and anxiously were the different reports from the crow's-nest listened +to, and still to the delight of all came down the cheery words, "Water, +plenty of water ahead, and no ice in sight." + +Every one was joyous and elated as, at noon, they assembled round the +ward-room table to inaugurate, in a glass of Madeira, generously +supplied by our wine caterer, the auspicious event, and to wish success +to their flag. + +Unfortunately snow was falling heavily, and the weather was so thick +that little could be seen. We could just make out that the land along +which we were steering, and which trended to the N.E., was composed of +high cliffs with numerous ravines and valleys running down to the +water's edge; but, to our disappointment, we failed to observe either +harbour or bay, or any place that would afford a refuge or protection of +any description for the ship. Arctic navigation, like everything else, +has its dark as well as its bright side! + +After rounding Cape Union the coast trended away to the westward of +north, and the wind, which had hitherto been blowing so fresh, suddenly +subsided. So did our joyful anticipations, for one short hour after our +ensign had fluttered out so gaily before the breeze, we were stopped by +a barrier of ice of great thickness, through which there was no prospect +of penetrating. The land also appeared to lose the bold rugged character +that had been such a prominent feature between Lincoln Bay and Cape +Union, and now assumed an undulating form as it trended away to the +N.W., the coast being low and entirely covered with snow. + +Having set our minds at rest that a farther advance, for the present, +was perfectly impracticable, we reluctantly retraced our steps to the +southward for about a mile, and secured the ship inside a fringe of +grounded floe-bergs that lined the coast and which promised to afford us +protection, in fact, the only protection, from the irresistible pressure +of the pack. A depôt of provisions, consisting of two thousand rations, +was immediately landed, in order to guard against all accidents that +might happen to the ship, and also to be of use to our southern +travelling parties, should we succeed in reaching a higher latitude in +the ship. The weather still continued thick; but during a clear interval +we succeeded in getting a good view to the northward from the summit of +a hill about two hundred and fifty feet above the level of the sea. But +it was a most cheerless scene that presented itself in that direction. +Nothing but ice, tight and impassable, was to be seen--a solid +impenetrable mass that no amount of imagination or theoretical belief +could ever twist into an "open Polar Sea"! + +We were reluctantly compelled to come to the conclusion that we had in +reality arrived on the shore of the Polar Ocean; a frozen sea, of such a +character as utterly to preclude the possibility of its being navigated +by a ship; a wide expanse of ice and snow, whose impenetrable fastnesses +seemed to defy the puny efforts of mortal men to invade and expose their +hitherto sealed and hidden mysteries. Still we did not give up all hope +of reaching a higher northern position in the ship. We knew the +wonderful effect that a gale of wind would produce on the pack, and we +hoped when the weather cleared, we should still be able to see, and +reach, land to the northward. + +For the present then we could only put our trust in Providence, who had +already guarded and favoured us almost beyond our most sanguine +expectations, and pray that He might still continue to watch over and +protect us, and grant us such a measure of success as would increase our +knowledge of this world and thereby add to His glory. + + + + +CHAPTER XI. + +FLOE-BERG BEACH. + + + "The cold earth slept below, + Above the cold sky shone, + And all around + With a chilling sound, + From caves of ice and fields of snow + The breath of night like death did flow + Beneath the sinking moon." + + SHELLEY. + +In order more effectually to ensure the safety of the ship, the men were +at once employed in removing a large quantity of loose ice, directly +inside the line of friendly floe-bergs, so as to allow the vessel to be +hauled farther in and thus obtain more complete protection from the +encroachments of the pack. This was no easy work, for the wind had again +sprung up and blew with terrific violence, whilst the temperature had +fallen as much as ten degrees below the freezing point. + +Before we had succeeded in completing our preparations a violent squall +struck the ship, the lines by which she was temporarily held parted, and +we were blown clean out from our harbour of refuge. Steam was instantly +raised, and an anchor let go, which fortunately brought us up. During +the succeeding hours the gale blew with increased fury, but being an +off-shore wind, we were in a measure protected, whilst it had the effect +of driving the pack off, so as to raise our hopes at the prospect of +again proceeding northward. + +Suddenly, without any warning, the wind shifted, and drove the whole +body of the pack towards the land. Our danger now was imminent. To be +caught between the fast closing ice and the grounded floe-bergs would be +certain destruction, to escape to the southward before the pack impinged +on Cape Union was quite out of the question, and to steam into the pack +would be madness. Our only hope of safety was to endeavour to haul the +ship inside the grounded floe-bergs, and again avail ourselves of their +friendly protection. No time was to be lost; it was a case of almost +life and death to us. The men, always to be depended upon in a crisis +like the present, responded to the call with alacrity, and by dint of +hard work we succeeded in hauling the ship into a safe position. We were +not a moment too soon: it was a race between the ice and the ship, in +which the latter was, fortunately for us, the victor. Scarcely had we +reached our place of refuge when the pack came into contact with the +bergs, scrunching and squeezing in a most unpleasant manner as it swept +by, and serving to illustrate, in a very practical way, the dreadful +fate to which we should have been subjected had we not been fortunate +enough to escape in time. + +It is difficult to imagine a more desolate position to pass a winter +than the one in which we were placed. Our ship was on an exposed and, +apparently, unsafe coast, without even the protection of a bay, within +one hundred yards of a low undulating beach, on which, should any +extraordinary pressure of the pack destroy our protecting bergs, we must +inevitably be forced and wrecked, exposed to all the rigours of an +Arctic winter; and yet, notwithstanding these unenviable drawbacks, the +official announcement that this place had been decided upon as our +winter quarters was received with a deep feeling of relief and +thankfulness. This determination was not, however, arrived at for some +days, when, from careful watching of the pack, it was decided that a +farther advance was absolutely impossible. + +Winter was advancing upon us with rapid strides, eager to seize us in +its icy grasp; so quickly, indeed, that in two days we were able to +_walk on shore_ on the new and rapidly forming ice. The now steadily +falling temperature was another and a sure indication that the navigable +season was at an end. + +Without a harbour or projecting headland of any description to protect +our good ship from the furious gusts that we must naturally expect, the +"Alert" lay, apparently, in a vast frozen ocean, having land on one +side, but bounded on the other by the chaotic and illimitable polar +pack. + +The land had already assumed a wintry aspect, and the ship, to be in +unison with her surroundings, had also put on a garb of snow and ice, +each spar and each rope being double its ordinary thickness from the +accumulation of frost rime. Everything was white, solemn, and motionless +around us; no voice of bird or beast was heard to disturb the silence. +All was as still and silent as the tomb--a silence that until then had +never been broken by the presence of man. + + "No other noyse, nor people's troublous cries, + As still are wont to annoy the walled towne, + Might there be heard, but carelesse quiet lyes, + Wrapt in eternal silence far from enemyes." + +Night, to which we had long been strangers, gradually came upon us, the +darkness increasing perceptibly as each day passed away. From the 3rd of +September, on which day the sun set at midnight, the days decreased in +length, and the stars were again seen to twinkle in the heavens. + +From a neighbouring hill we obtained a clear and unobstructed view of +our surroundings. The coast continued to the N.W. in a succession of +large bays, terminating in an abrupt cape some forty miles distant. In +order to assimilate the names of the various bays and headlands with +those of the American chart, this extreme point was called Cape Joseph +Henry. Beyond Cape Joseph Henry all was conjecture. It might be the +southern extreme of a large bay or inlet, or it might be the northern +termination of land. No land of any description could be seen to the +northward--nothing but the rugged pack. So formidable and compact +appeared this icy barrier that it seemed to stand out bold and resolute +in its strength, effectually setting at defiance the puny efforts of man +to penetrate its solidity, saying, as it were, "Thus far shalt thou go, +and no farther." And, indeed, we had much cause to be thankful to Him +who had hitherto watched over and protected us in many dangers, and who +had allowed us to penetrate thus far into this remote and unknown +portion of the globe. + +A long range of high hills could be seen to the westward, whilst on the +opposite side of the channel the distant land of Greenland was +indistinctly observed, its most northern point bearing about N.E. +(_true_).[1] + +The positions of the northern extremes of land, on either side of the +channel, were, for a time, a matter of some uncertainty, and it was +really doubtful which was situated in the highest latitude. It was not +until after the return of the autumn sledging parties that this +important question was definitely decided, the land on the western side +proving to be nearest the Pole. + +It must not be imagined, because farther progress in the ship had +ceased, that our labours had in any way diminished; on the contrary, we +felt that our real work was about to commence: a work in which we should +all share in a greater or less degree, and a work the achievement of +which had been our sole engrossing thought since leaving England. + +Before finally deciding upon the position of our winter quarters, +Captain Nares was desirous of ascertaining whether a more protected spot +could be found for the ship in the numerous bays to the N.W. than the +exposed position she then occupied. + +Accordingly, early on the 5th of September, Aldrich and myself started +away with a couple of sledges, each drawn by a team of eight dogs, under +the guidance of Frederic the Eskimo, and Petersen, the Danish +dog-driver. Our route lay along the edge of the coast, where, at times, +we were able to take advantage of the ice-foot on which to travel; but +as a rule there was no continuity of this land-ice, and we were +compelled to strike across an undulating country, deeply covered with +snow, ascending hills frequently as high as two and three hundred feet +above the level of the sea, whence we obtained good views of the +surrounding country. The general direction in which we travelled was +N.W., the coast line being a series of indentations in the land, some of +such a size as to form fine harbours and bays; but, alas! they could not +be utilized for our ship, for they were rendered unapproachable by a +chain of high hummocks extending in every case across the entrances, +whilst the water in the harbours appeared to be permanently frozen, and +therefore inaccessible for a vessel. + +It was a novel sensation to us to be thus dashing along on our light +sledges, exploring a perfectly unknown country: a wild and barren tract +of land, a snow-covered expanse, receding from our view in long +undulations into the interior, until lost amongst the high +conical-shaped hills of from one to two thousand feet in height, that +invariably form the chief feature of Arctic scenery in these high +latitudes. At noon we made a brief halt for luncheon, our appetites +having been rendered doubly keen by the sharp cold air of a temperature +some twenty degrees below freezing point; but which had, until the halt +was called, been unheeded, the constant jumping on and off the sledge +and assisting the dogs over difficulties having kept us in a perfect +glow. Innocently pulling off our mitts, we commenced a vigorous +onslaught upon the Australian beef with which we had supplied ourselves; +but the first contact of our fingers with the handles of the knives +proved the folly of such a proceeding, and compelled us again to resume +our mitts. These, however, were now frozen so hard that they were with +difficulty put on! Petersen using a tin cup to drink a little rum mixed +with snow, and disregarding his mitts, burnt his hand rather severely, +whilst we were all obliged to rub the edge of the cup well with our +hands before putting it to our lips! + +These little inconveniences were to us a source of great merriment; in +fact, they must really be experienced before they can be properly and +thoroughly appreciated! + +The Eskimo dogs appear to me to be very differently constituted to their +more civilized brethren. In England a halt for lunch whilst shooting is +a signal for all the dogs to assemble and importune for fragments of the +feast, which they greedily devour. My own dog "Nellie" would never be +satisfied without obtaining a very large share of any impromptu meal. +With the Eskimo dogs it is quite different. As soon as the sledges are +halted they lie down and sleep, and rarely attempt to move until they +are required to do so. Should a piece of meat be thrown to them they may +condescend to swallow it; but they turn up their noses at a piece of +biscuit, utterly despising it as an article of food. Yet these dogs are +excessively voracious, and always hungry! Nothing in the shape of fresh +meat, or even skin, is safe from their insatiable voracity; even the +thongs that are used for lashing the different parts of a sledge +together, unless they have been well rubbed over with tar, are unsafe, +and will most assuredly be gnawed off. Notwithstanding this, they have +little liking for cooked meat, positively refuse biscuit, and are not +troublesome when they observe you eating. + +We were _en route_ again directly our luncheon was consumed, the dogs +starting off with renewed vigour and speed after their short rest, when +we came suddenly upon a precipitous ravine, almost too late to stop our +team in their headlong career. By springing out of the sledge and +holding on with might and main, we just succeeded in stopping them in +time, pulling up almost on the very brink of the precipice. Retracing +our steps for a short distance, we left the hills, and continued our +course along the coast line, until our farther progress was checked by +water, a channel connecting two large bays, which from their shape +afterwards went by the name of Dumb-bell Bay. + +[Illustration: DOG-SLEDGE IN DIFFICULTIES.] + +Swimming about in this little sheet of water was a small flock of +eider-ducks, eleven in number, that appeared to be as much surprised at +beholding us as we were at seeing them. They did not, however, seem +disposed to fly away. The only weapon we had was a rifle with twelve +rounds of ammunition. With this we commenced hostilities, rejoicing in +the anticipation of a fresh-meat meal when we returned to the ship. So +utterly unconcerned did they appear that we actually succeeded in +shooting five before the remainder took flight; but to our great chagrin +we were unable to possess ourselves of any of our victims, as they had +unfortunately all fallen into the water _just_ out of our reach. This +was very tantalizing, as neither of us felt inclined to risk being +frozen for the sake even of roast duck by plunging in after them. We +were reluctantly compelled to leave them. During the following week, +however, they were recovered, having all been frozen together in the +water. With the exception of these birds, no animal life was seen, +although we observed numerous traces of ptarmigan and lemmings. Tufts of +saxifrage and some grasses were seen, but so thickly was the land +covered with snow that it was impossible to arrive at any conclusion +regarding the vegetation of the country. + +In consequence of the report that we brought back, Floe-berg Beach was +decided upon as the position of the "Alert's" winter quarters, and +preparations were immediately made for securing the ship, and for making +as extensive an exploration of the land to the northward as the duration +of light would admit. + +The land in our immediate vicinity was also very naturally an object of +special interest to us. Speculations were rife regarding its extent and +formation. The possibility of obtaining game of any description was a +matter of much importance to us who were doomed to pass so many months +in these icy solitudes. Alas! any hopes that we had cherished in this +respect were soon found to be fallacious. The land, for the succeeding +eight months, proved to be as devoid of life as its appearance was +sterile and desolate. + +On the 9th of September Aldrich went away with the dog-sledges, +accompanied by two or three of his messmates, for three days, for the +purpose of more thoroughly exploring the country in the hopes of +obtaining game. + +On the 11th I left the ship with Parr and Egerton and eighteen men, with +the object of advancing a couple of boats to the northward along the +proposed route of exploration. It was thought that they might prove +useful during the future sledging operations of the expedition. We came +back in four days, having successfully accomplished our mission. + +On our return journey we encountered a furious gale of wind, which broke +up the ice along the coast line, and forced us to drag our sledges over +the hills, the summits of which were almost bare, the force of the gale +having blown the snow completely off. Any one who has ever attempted to +drag a sledge over a rough stony road will know the severe toil and +labour that is required to be exerted in order to make any progress. +Crossing a bay we made a short halt for luncheon on the ice, under the +lee of a high hummock, and narrowly escaped destruction from having +selected such a spot for a halt. Without our observing it, the ice began +breaking up, and it was only by strenuous exertions that we succeeded in +reaching the shore in safety, whence we observed the ice on which we had +recently been encamped drifting in small fragments to seaward. If this +disruption had not been observed in time, nothing short of a miracle +could have saved us. + +The violence of the gale was so terrific that pebbles and shingle were +blown along by its force, mercilessly striking our faces and causing +acute pain. Still we had to struggle onwards, for there was no possible +lee under which we could pitch our tents and obtain shelter. An attempt +to do so was unsuccessful, and had to be abandoned. + +One of the men, failing from sheer exhaustion, had to be carried on the +sledge. This seriously added to our difficulties, for it increased the +load which the wearied sledgers had to drag, whilst it diminished the +power of the draggers. But the indomitable spirit and pluck of the +British sailor overcame all obstacles, and after an arduous march of +eighteen hours in the face of a furious hurricane, we arrived, to our no +small relief, alongside the "Alert." Never was a goal attained with more +pleasure and satisfaction than was our Arctic home reached that night by +the fatigued and half-blinded sledge travellers. Untrained as they were, +this forced march had seriously overtaxed their strength and entailed +much suffering. Some few were, on their return, placed under the +doctor's hands. + +Meanwhile those remaining on board the ship, but few in number, spent an +anxious and trying time. + +The young ice, by which the ship was surrounded, had been completely +broken up by the fury of the gale, and had disappeared; and had it not +been for the protecting grounded floe-bergs, small mercy would have been +shown to the good ship "Alert," by "ye thick-ribbed ice." + +Small fragments of the pack, large enough, however, to be unpleasant +and disagreeable neighbours, would occasionally find their way between +the floe-bergs, and drift about in our immediate vicinity. These it was +our object to secure as speedily as possible, otherwise their incessant +movement backwards and forwards with the tide would break up the young +ice, or even prevent it from forming. The ominous grinding noise of the +pack, as it swayed to and fro in the channel, and the terrible war that +appeared to be raging between the floes as they came into furious +contact with each other, pulverizing their sides or rending huge +fragments from their edges, was a sound and sight that struck us with +wonder and awe. + +The grandeur and solemnity of the scene gave rise to thoughts of our own +weakness and insignificance amidst these wonders of the far north. + +On the morning after our return on board, the wind having subsided +considerably, and a large channel of water existing between the land and +the pack, Captain Nares determined upon seeking more secure and +sheltered winter quarters in one of the numerous bays immediately to the +northward of our present position, in the hope that the gale would have +broken up the ice and so afforded us an entrance. + +Steam was quickly raised and the rudder shipped; but from some, at that +time, unknown cause we were unable to lower the screw into its place, or +rather to enter the shaft. Our chance therefore of getting away was +lost, as before midnight the gale was blowing as furiously as ever. The +following day, however, the weather again cleared up, and renewed +attempts were made to ship the screw, but always without success. Whilst +so engaged a shift of wind occurred, and we had the mortification of +seeing the whole body of the pack close the channel of water and resume +its place along the coast, where it remained during the entire winter, +effectually sealing us up. We had good reason to be thankful to our +screw for causing our detention, for a subsequent examination of the +coast proved only too plainly that the ice had not been broken up and +blown out of any of the harbours that we should have sought, and that we +should not have found any better sheltered position than the one we then +occupied. In all probability we should have been caught by the fast +closing ice--an occurrence rather unpleasant even to speculate upon. We +afterwards discovered the reason for the failure of our attempts to ship +the screw. On lowering it into the water, the ice formed so quickly in +the "boss" that it effectually prevented the shaft from entering! + +The ship was now secured by lines to the floe-bergs, and by anchors and +cables to the shore, until she should be permanently frozen in. + +We also busily engaged ourselves in making the necessary preparations +for the autumn sledging operations. Travelling garments were issued, +tents thoroughly overhauled, and sledges prepared. + +On the 22nd of September Aldrich was despatched with three men and two +dog-sledges, provisioned for fourteen days, as a sort of pioneering +expedition; his orders being to proceed, if possible, as far as Cape +Joseph Henry, there to erect a cairn and deposit a record with full +information regarding the practicability of travelling, that would be of +use to the main party which would follow him in a few days. + +By the 25th the ice had again formed around the ship, and was of +sufficient thickness to bear heavy weights. This was the day selected +for the departure of the sledging parties. The force consisted of three +eight-men sledges, officered by Parr and May, the whole under my +command. My sledge was named the "Marco Polo;" Parr's, the "Victoria;" +and May's, the "Hercules." My orders were to advance as far to the +northward, along the land, as possible, and at our extreme position to +establish a large depôt of provisions in readiness for the use of the +main exploring parties that would be despatched in that direction during +the ensuing spring. Our provisions were all carefully weighed and +packed; the maximum weight dragged by each man on leaving the ship was +201 lbs., decreasing at the rate of 3 lbs. per diem due to the +consumption of provisions. The slight experience that we obtained during +the previous few days' sledging stood us now in good stead; the men who +had recently been so employed being regarded as veterans in sledge work +by those who were for the first time being initiated into its mysteries. +All started in the very best spirits, animated by the same desire to do +their utmost, and to achieve, so far as in them lay, success and honour +for the expedition. + +The details connected with the sledging operations must have a chapter +to themselves. I make no apology for not entering more fully into the +journeys performed by Aldrich and others, as the description of one +sledging expedition suffices for all, and I am, of course, best able to +describe those in which I was myself personally engaged. + + +FOOTNOTE: + + [1] All compass bearings referred to are _true_, unless stated to be + _magnetic_. + + + + +CHAPTER XII. + +AUTUMN TRAVELLING. + + + "When suddenly a grosse fog over spred, + With his dull vapour all that desert has, + And heaven's cheerfull face enveloped; + That all things one, and one as nothing was, + And this great universe seemed one confused mass. + + "Thereat they greatly were dismay'd, ne wist + How to direct theyr way in darknes wide; + But feared to wander in that wastefull miste, + For tombling into mischiefe unespyde: + Worse is the danger hidden than descride." + + SPENSER. + +There are, I am sure, many among those "who stay at home at ease" who +have little or no idea of what sledge travelling in the Arctic Regions +is like, and who even fail to realize that it entails hard work of any +description. + +Their imaginations picture the travellers seated on sledges, comfortably +wrapped up in shawls and furs, and drawn by a team of dogs or reindeer +gaily caparisoned, with their bells jingling as they dash along at a +rapid pace over a smooth plain of snow and ice. They imagine that after +the toil of the day is over a large fire is built up, and, having +obtained some salmon, venison, or other product of the chase, a +sumptuous meal is cooked and discussed, after which the sledge +travellers compose themselves to sleep in a nice warm snow-house or +wooden hut constructed by their attendants. All this sounds very +delightful, and is, to my personal knowledge, believed to be a fairly +true picture of Arctic life by a large majority of people. Unfortunately +it is the very reverse of sledge life on the shores of the Polar Ocean. +Let us see what it is like in reality. There, great climatic hardships +have to be endured, combined with physical labour of no ordinary +description. No change or variety of any sort can be made in the fare, +nor can more than a certain allowance be allotted to each individual. +When that is consumed, hunger must be borne with patience until the time +has arrived for the next meal, for until that is due nothing is +obtainable. + +For shelter at night time, a tent made of the very lightest material +(for economy of weight is the most important point to be considered in +sledge travelling) is all the covering to protect the travellers from +the furious onslaughts of a biting wind, always accompanied by a +blinding snow-drift. So searching is the latter that in spite of all +efforts it will penetrate through every little orifice into the tent, +covering everything inside with a layer of minute snow crystals, and +rendering an uncomfortable night still more comfortless and +disagreeable. Rolled up in their bags, with the hard frozen sea as their +couch, affording little rest to their aching and frost-bitten limbs, the +wearied sledgers vainly attempt in sleep to become oblivious to the +present. As for a fire by which circulation might be restored in their +numbed extremities, that is quite out of the question. A limited amount +of spirits of wine, barely sufficient to cook the allowance of +provisions, is all the fuel with which they are supplied. Even if the +material for making a fire, such as driftwood, was available, it would +be impossible to benefit by it, for it could not be lighted in the tent, +whilst outside, under such circumstances as I have related, it would be +impracticable. + +This is a slight sketch of what has to be endured by the Polar sledge +traveller; but a cheerful spirit, a contented mind, and an ardent desire +to achieve success are quite sufficient to enable him to withstand the +attendant hardships, and even to laugh at and treat them with contempt. + +I cannot do better than quote the words of Sir George Nares, who, +addressing our men before leaving England, whilst explaining to them the +nature of the work that they were about to engage in, and speaking from +his own personal previous experience of sledge life, said, "That if they +could imagine the hardest work they had ever been called upon to perform +in their lives intensified to the utmost degree, it would only be as +child's play in comparison with the work they would have to perform +whilst sledging!" + +These prophetic words were fully realized, and were often recalled and +commented on by the men during their initiation into the work of +sledging. + +The autumn sledge travelling has been alluded to by a very distinguished +and successful explorer in the Arctic Regions, as "the very acme of +discomfort." In the accuracy of this statement we, one and all, fully +concurred. + +The principal reasons that sledging at this period of the year is more +disagreeable than in the spring are, first, because the rapidly +decreasing light caused by the sun's altitude lessening day by day is +decidedly opposed to either work or comfort. Before our return from +sledging, the sun had illumined for the last time, until its +reappearance the following year, the summits of the snow-covered hills +in the vicinity of the "Alert's" winter quarters, and had sunk, slowly +and majestically, beneath the southern horizon, bequeathing to us only +for a short time a few bright rays until the long polar night wrapped us +in its sombre mantle, and enveloped us in gloom and obscurity for many +months. + + "'Tis gone, that bright and orbèd blaze, + Fast fading from our wistful gaze; + Yon mantling cloud has hid from sight + The last faint pulse of quivering light." + +A few hours of twilight, therefore, were all we had in which to work. +Candles we had none. Our breakfast before we started in the morning and +our supper after we halted in the evening had to be discussed in gloomy +darkness. Our notes had to be written in our journals before entering +the tent, even at the risk of frost-bitten fingers. + +In the second place, at this time of the year the ice, over which the +sledges have to be dragged, is of very recent formation, and is +consequently weak and dangerous. The travellers are therefore more +liable to immersion by breaking through the thin ice at this period of +the season than they are during the spring, or indeed at any other time. +Young, and therefore smooth and level ice, covered with a treacherous +layer of snow, often entices the unwary to turn from the rougher but +stronger floes to travel on its flat plain surface. An immersion is +invariably the result. Sometimes the leading men on the drag-ropes break +through this weak ice first, and, by so doing, time is given to stop and +save the sledge; but very often the ice directly under the sledge gives +way without previous warning, when every effort must be at once directed +to save the sledge. Although this is always successful it is generally +at the expense of the greater part of the biscuit, which is so saturated +with salt water as to be uneatable, and the wetting, and the consequent +freezing, of the tent with all its appurtenances. Nothing more wretched +and miserable can be conceived than having to pass the night in a +stiffly frozen sleeping bag, inside a tent, which at the best of times +is barely large enough to accommodate the party of men for whom it is +allotted, but which has been considerably shrunk by being frozen. Not +the least unpleasant part is the process of pitching it, for having +become as hard as a piece of board, it is with great difficulty +unfolded; more especially as this operation has to be performed after +the fatigues of a hard day's sledging, by wearied men, in such a +temperature that it is impossible to expose the hands bare to the cold, +and it must therefore be carried out with mittens on. + +The constant wetting of the feet also renders the men more liable to +frost-bites; whilst the heavy fall of snow, usually experienced in these +regions during the autumn, renders the work ten times more arduous. For +the air thus becomes so thick that it is impossible to see many yards +ahead, and we have to trust solely to a compass as a guide. We might, in +truth, fairly quote the lines from Spenser's "Faërie Queene," at the +heading of the present chapter, as illustrating our difficulties in +this respect-- + + "That all things one, and one as nothing was, + And this great universe seemed one confused mass." + +And lastly this continual breaking through the ice of both men and +sledge, combined with the heavy and incessant fall of snow, renders the +task of walking and dragging a sledge one of extreme labour and anxiety. +These were the little difficulties we had to experience during our +novitiate in this autumn sledge travelling, and they must be generally +expected by explorers who go away so late in the year. + +[Illustration: START OF THE AUTUMN SLEDGES.] + +In a future chapter I propose to give a full account of the routine of +sledge life, of the equipment and scale of provisions, and of all other +details connected with sledging operations in the Arctic Regions. I will +now, therefore, proceed at once to give a brief account of our journey, +for the purpose of laying out a depôt in the autumn, which occupied +three weeks of very severe and harassing work. + +At eight o'clock, on the 25th of September, the three officers +commanding sledges, myself and Lieutenants Parr and May, assembled at +breakfast in sledging costume, and a rattling good breakfast our caterer +gave us. At 8.15 our standards were displayed on the sledges, the ship +hoisting the ensign. At 8.30 the crews took up their stations alongside +their respective sledges, and the order was given to march. Our men +stepped out bravely, and as they did so three hearty cheers resounded +from the ship. I called a halt and returned the salute with as much +emphasis as twenty-four powerful pairs of lungs could give, and then +continued the march. The young ice seemed strong enough to bear, so +leaving the ice foot, on which the travelling was heavy, we ventured on +the new ice. But we had not gone more than a mile when, to my horror, +Parr's sledge, the "Victoria," went through! It was a case of all hands +to the rescue, and after fifteen minutes of hard tugging and hauling we +succeeded in dragging it upon a firm piece of ice. But everything was +thoroughly saturated. There was nothing for it but to send back at once +for another sledge and dry things. This being done, we again proceeded +for about three miles, when suddenly I heard a crack, and looking round, +there was my sledge through! We dragged it on shore, and unpacking at +once, I was glad to find that we had suffered less than the "Victoria;" +but it was bad enough. Our tent and gear at the top were of course +saturated, and nearly all our biscuit spoilt. However, I did not think +it advisable to return, so re-packing we made another start, and shortly +afterwards were rejoined by Parr. After marching for twelve miles I +halted for the night with the temperature 3° below zero, the tent frozen +hard and shrunk considerably. Next day we marched thirteen miles over +ice whose blue uneven surface was as smooth as glass, making it very +hard work for the men, who were sorely put to it to maintain their +footing. They worked splendidly, trudging merrily along, making light of +the heavy loads and the treacherous ice, thinking only of performing a +good day's work, and of advancing the depôt as far north as possible. + +On the third day, being unable to round a point of land owing to several +lanes of water, we were obliged to unload the sledges and carry the +things piecemeal across a neck of land about two miles in width and a +hundred feet above the level of the sea. On the same evening snow began +to fall, and from that time it fell incessantly until our return to the +ship, increasing in depth day by day. This, combined with the softness +of the snow as it fell, seriously impeded our advance, and we were +frequently obliged to halt our sledges whilst the men were employed +clearing a road with the shovels. So impervious was the air, owing to +the heavy fall of snow, that it was only occasionally that we were able +to obtain glimpses of the land as we journeyed onwards, rendering it +most difficult to make out its conformation, or even the direction in +which the coast line trended. + +From the unaccustomed work of dragging, the shoulders of the men began +to evince symptoms of rawness, although they constantly shifted their +drag belts from one shoulder to the other. In spite of these little +drawbacks, and the dull overcast weather that generally prevailed, the +spirits of the men never flagged, and every night the labour of the day +would be forgotten, and singing and laughter would be the only sounds +heard issuing from our little camp, long after we had comfortably +settled ourselves in our sleeping bags. + +It was amusing to listen to the quaint remarks and witty conversation of +the men, as, reclining in their bags and smoking their pipes, they +would, regardless of the generally dreaded presence of the commander, +broach lower deck topics, and freely discuss and criticize them. I was +much surprised at the extensive Arctic knowledge which they possessed, +showing that they had read largely on this subject, and were anxious to +learn yet more. + +I must own that the subject of eating and drinking monopolized a very +large share of the conversation; nor did they only occupy our minds +whilst awake, for they frequently formed the subject of our dreams. On +one occasion when I aroused the men in the morning one of them said, +"Oh! I am sorry you called me so soon, sir, for I was dreaming that I +was eating plum pudding, and if you had let me finish it would have been +as good as a breakfast to me!" Gales of wind were, of course, serious +impediments to our advance, and were of not unfrequent occurrence. They +invariably necessitated a halt, as, irrespective of the cold wind being +productive of frost-bites, it was almost impossible to make way through +the blinding snow-drift, which did not admit of anything being seen even +at the distance of a yard or two! + +On the 4th of October, half our provisions being consumed, and there +being the prospect of very heavy travelling before us on our homeward +journey, it was decided to return. The depôt was therefore established, +on the brow of a ridge just above our encampment. It consisted of 870 +lbs. of pemmican and 240 lbs. of bacon. May and myself pushed on, with +the object of reaching Cape Joseph Henry; but the weather was too thick +to obtain any view, and, for the same reason, it was impossible to +ascertain the trend of the coast or the nature of the travelling to the +northward. The floes seemed to be composed of very heavy ice, and the +hummocks were piled up to a great height along the coast, especially off +any projecting points of land. Lieutenant Aldrich had, however, ascended +a hill some two thousand feet in height, and was fortunate in having a +fine clear day. From Cape Joseph Henry the land, he saw, trended away to +the westward, but there was no indication of anything but the +impenetrable polar pack to the north. We reached a latitude of about 82° +50´ N. before turning our steps homewards. + +On the return journey the dragging became infinitely more irksome and +laborious. The snow had accumulated to such a depth as to render some of +the ravines and promontories almost impassable, being above the men's +knees nearly all the time. On one occasion we were compelled to take our +sledges up a range of hills two hundred and fifty feet above the level +of the sea, in order to pass a precipitous cliff, off which was a stream +of water, and then to lower them down a steep incline on the opposite +side. To add to our difficulties, a sudden fall of temperature produced +many severe frost-bites, principally on the feet and toes. Circulation +was always restored as speedily as possible by the application of the +warm hand, and the injured part was then dressed with glycerine ointment +and lint. + +The hills, over which we were obliged to take our sledges, subsequently +went by the name of the "Frost-bite Range," in consequence of the many +casualties sustained during the time we were on them. + +On the 9th the temperature was 15° below zero, and the boots, stockings, +and foot wrappers were frozen to the men's feet. On coming down the +hills the sledges had literally to be lowered to the ice-foot from a +height of two hundred and fifty feet, at a very steep angle. Thence it +was necessary to follow the shore, where enormous hummocks of ice were +piled up, having huge cracks and fissures, into which we sunk to our +necks in snow. In crossing some sludgy ice between the hummocks, on the +11th, Lieutenant May unfortunately went through, and was so severely +frost-bitten that he eventually had to suffer amputation of one of his +great toes. + +The sun set at about one in the afternoon. A glorious sight: the colours +of the sunrise and sunset seeming to be blended together. This was on +Tuesday, and at breakfast on the following Friday all the provisions +would be expended. The 13th was the last day of the sun's appearance. + +On the 14th the temperature was down to 25° below zero, and the +travelling very heavy; but our sufferings were nearly over. At seven we +sighted the ship, and hoisted our sledge standards. All the officers and +ship's company came out to meet and help us, and by 8.50 P.M. we were on +board. + +Some of the frost-bites were so severe as to render amputation +necessary. This arose from the difficulty of finding out the injury in +time. A frost-bite steals upon one like a thief in the night, and before +the victim is aware it often happens that mortification has set in. No +less than half the party were placed on the sick list from being more or +less severely frost-bitten. + +It was a very great relief and comfort to us to be again on board, and +extremely gratifying to receive such a welcome as that extended to us by +our messmates. They were already feeling a little anxious at our +prolonged absence, knowing that we were only provisioned for twenty +days, and fearing that our return journey would be greatly delayed by +the late excessive fall of snow. + +How comfortable the ward-room looked, with the lamps burning brightly, a +cheerful fire blazing in the stove, and, what delighted us almost still +more, a clean white cloth spread upon the table, and on it a sumptuous +repast, made doubly inviting by a couple of decanters of madeira and +port! These little comforts and luxuries, though they may appear to +casual readers unimportant and insignificant, are thoroughly enjoyed and +appreciated by wearied and foot-sore travellers who have been strangers +to light, comfort, and a good meal, though only for three short weeks. +The pleasure of a warm bath and the enjoyment of brushing one's hair are +beyond all description! We were all a little thinner when we returned; +but, with the exception of the frost-bites, none the worse for our +expedition. + +So far as the results were concerned we were quite satisfied, +considering them perfectly successful. + +We had established a depôt of provisions some forty miles to the +northward of the ship, which would very materially assist the sledging +campaign of the ensuing spring. A large amount of thorough practical +experience had been gained, which we hoped would bear good fruit in the +coming year. And we had succeeded in reaching and passing the highest +latitude attained, to the northward of Spitzbergen, by that +distinguished Arctic navigator, Sir Edward Parry, forty-eight years +before, during his memorable journey over the frozen sea towards the +North Pole. + +These were the most important results gained by the autumn sledging. + +The disappearance of the sun before our return necessarily prevented a +more protracted exploration being made. As it was we only had sufficient +light during midday for a very few hours' work. + +Perhaps, as it was our first experience in sledging, it was as well we +were not able to remain absent for a greater length of time. As an +instance of the manner in which the different articles increased in +weight during the autumn travelling, we found on our return to the ship +that the tent which had previously weighed 32 lbs. had increased to 55 +lbs., the coverlet from 21 lbs. to 48 lbs., the lower robe from 18 lbs. +to 40 lbs., the floor-cloth from 11 lbs. to 29 lbs., and everything else +in proportion! This increase is due to the absorption of all moisture, +which instantly freezes. In the spring, although the temperature is far +lower, this moisture, even when frozen, is extracted by exposure to the +sun. In the autumn this is impossible, as the sun has disappeared. + +[Illustration: WINTER QUARTERS, H.M.S. "ALERT."] + + + + +CHAPTER XIII. + +WINTER QUARTERS. + + + "Let winter come! let polar spirits sweep + The dark'ning world and tempest-troubled deep. + Though boundless snows the withered heath deform, + And the dim sun _ne'er_ wanders through the storm, + Yet shall the smile of social love repay + With mental light the melancholy day." + + CAMPBELL. + +The sledge travellers having all returned, the necessary preparations +for passing the winter were immediately taken in hand. + +Notwithstanding the loss of the sun, which took its final departure on +the 11th of October, we had for many days sufficient light, during five +or six hours of the day, to enable us to carry out the manifold duties +connected with the preparations for a winter in the Arctic Regions. + +Although the ship was completely frozen in, and the ice in which she was +imprisoned was increasing in thickness day by day, additional +precautions for her safety were taken by burying a couple of the largest +anchors on shore, and freezing them into their holes by pouring water +over them; to these were attached the chain cables. These we felt would +be a perfect security for us against any off-shore gale. + +Provisions in large quantities were landed as a precaution, in case any +unforeseen event should, during the winter, cause the destruction of our +ship, and so at one fell swoop deprive us both of home and supplies. Out +of the casks and cases so landed a spacious house was constructed, +capable, if necessary, of affording accommodation to our entire party. +This house, which went by the name of "Markham Hall," was used as a +receptacle for sails, rope, sledge gear, and all articles that could not +be conveniently stowed under hatches on board. Its dimensions were +forty-nine feet long, by twelve feet wide, and ten feet high. The +mainsail was used to roof it over. It was altogether a very grand +edifice, and we were, and I think with some reason, very proud at the +result of our architectural skill. + +The building mania seemed to be very prevalent amongst the officers, the +majority of whom employed themselves in constructing snow-houses for +various purposes near the ship. One officer went so far as to commence a +_colonnade_, reaching from the shore to the ship, the pillars to be made +of frozen blocks of snow, but the undertaking was of too gigantic a +nature to be carried out with any hope of success, and was abandoned +after a few days' work. + +A wooden observatory, brought out from England for the express purpose, +was set up for the transit instrument, and this with a house adjoining, +in which was placed the alt-azimuth instrument, being the head-quarters +of our astronomical observers, Parr and May, went by the name of +"Greenwich." + +[Illustration: DIAGRAM ILLUSTRATING THE MAGNETIC OBSERVATORY AT "KEW." + +EXPLANATION OF PLAN. + + A The Unifilar House. + B The Barrow Dip Circle House. + C The Declinometer House. + DD Passage connecting A and B, 37½ ft. in length. + EEE The main passage, 120 ft. long. + F Passage leading to Declinometer House, 44 ft. from entrance. + G The main, and only, entrance. Distant from the _Alert_ 504 ft. + All houses and passages were "sub-glacial."] + +Snow-houses were constructed on shore for the several magnetic +instruments, and these latter were securely fixed by being firmly frozen +on snow pedestals. The three houses in which the instruments were +placed were connected, one with the other, by sub-glacial passages, one +being no less than a hundred and twenty feet in length. The whole +establishment, which was most complete and reflected great credit on +its architect, was called "Kew." Giffard and myself were the two +officers entrusted with the charge of the magnetic observations, and +many a cold and comfortless hour had we to spend, in our endeavours to +add to the slight knowledge we possess in this interesting branch of +science. + +Several other snow-houses were built for various purposes. One was for +the reception of our powder, as it is most important that such a +dangerous and combustible article should be removed from the ship, where +of necessity so many fires have to be kept up. The place in which the +powder was stored was called "Woolwich." Others were constructed in +which were deposited all our salt beef for present use, and these +buildings, of course, went by the name of "Deptford," after our great +naval victualling depôt in England. + +Altogether the neighbourhood of our winter quarters had the appearance +of a young thriving settlement rapidly springing into maturity, +rendering what would otherwise have been a barren and desolate scene, +one of cheerful life and activity. + +The salt beef, which was exceptionally tough and salt, more so indeed +than the ordinary salt "junk" used in the navy, was kept in a +snow-house; because we found, by experiment, that it was rendered more +palatable by so doing. In all probability the process of congelation +tended to extract, or precipitate, a very large portion of the saline +matter with which it was impregnated, and thus deprived it, to some +extent, of its hardness and saltness. + +By the 26th of October the ship was completely "housed" in by a set of +awnings, extending from the after part of the top-gallant forecastle to +the mizzen-mast. This "housing" was made of a material called tilt +cloth, similar to that used to cover waggons in England. It was spread +on spars lashed between the masts, having curtains on each side so +fitted that they could readily and easily be triced up when required for +purposes of ventilation. Hanging lamps were suspended from the spars +over the centre of the deck, which were kept alight night and day. The +funnel, which was provided with a hinge, was lowered down, and formed a +famous and convenient stow-hole for rope. The number of coils that were +deposited in it was truly marvellous. + +[Illustration: FLAG-STAFF POINT.] + +Two gangways were cut in the ship's side: the one on the port side being +used as the general one for entrance and exit; the one on the starboard +for carrying out all slops and dirt to a large dirt-heap established +between the hummocks, some hundred yards from the ship. A smaller +dirt-heap was temporarily used nearer the ship, the accumulations being +removed to the larger one once or twice a week. + +Although, as a rule, the snow was not well adapted for building purposes +on account of its consistency, we were able to supply ourselves with +blocks from certain places where the snow had drifted in large +quantities and hardened by pressure. + +A snow wall, constructed from solid blocks obtained from these quarries, +was formed round the ship at about six feet distance, and at the height +of about four feet. When this was completed the space between the ship's +side and this wall was filled in with snow, reaching as high as the fore +and main channels, forming a perfectly solid and impervious embankment +that would effectually aid in preserving the warmth of the ship. The +upper deck was cleared of all superfluous articles, and was covered with +snow about twelve inches deep. A layer of gravel and ashes was strewn +over the surface; but I am not sure that we benefited much by this +measure, for it was rendered so slippery by being frozen that it was by +no means an easy matter to walk on it. + +All skylights and hatchways were carefully covered up, two only of the +latter being kept open as a means of ingress and egress. These were so +constructed with porches and double doors as to prevent the admission of +the outside air. The doors, being fitted with weights, were made +self-shutting, so that the closing of one door was insured before the +opening of the other. Snow walls were also built up round the porches, +and in fact round the hatchways and skylights not in use, so as to +render them all the more impervious to the cold air. + +Round the funnel of the galley fire there was a large space, inclosed by +a wall of snow, in which was deposited every morning a supply of ice or +frozen snow, to be converted into water sufficient to last twenty-four +hours. The ice for this purpose was procured from a large floe about one +hundred and fifty yards from the ship, which in all probability was +formed by the thawing and subsequent re-freezing of the snow on its +surface. When it was difficult to find work for the men to do outside +the ship during the winter, they were employed in conveying this ice to +a large depôt that was formed close to the vessel, protected from the +Eskimo dogs by a snow wall, from which during gales of wind or other bad +weather we were able to supply ourselves. + +Our boats were all hauled up in a safe position on shore. Sails were +left bent, but securely furled and covered. Ropes that were not unrove +were carefully hauled taut, so as to prevent our being kept awake during +a gale of wind by an uninterrupted "devil's tattoo"--that is, the +continual flapping of a rope against a spar, which produces a very +aggravating and monotonous sound. + +Former expeditions were supplied with Sylvester's warming apparatus, +which, by means of pipes leading along the whole length of the ship, +warmed the "between decks" with hot air. The only means for heating the +vessel at our disposal were by stoves. These were placed in various +parts of the ship, and put under the charge of men who were +periodically selected for this service. Stringent regulations were +issued regarding the economical consumption of fuel, and also to guard +against all accidents from fire. + +As it is necessary in all ships wintering in the Arctic Regions to +devote a certain place to the washing and drying of clothes in which a +high temperature can be constantly kept, we appointed for this purpose a +compartment on the fore part of the lower deck, commonly called the +fore-peak. The men had certain days during the week allotted to them for +the use of this place, and it was found that clothes washed and hung up +one afternoon would be invariably dry on the following morning. + +The vapour arising in this room did not reach the deck on which the men +lived, but was conveyed through a trap hatch leading into the fore-peak +to a large space under the top-gallant forecastle, inclosed by a snow +wall and made its exit through an up-take formed of a piece of +funnelling. The compartment was heated by a stove, the fire in which was +kept burning night and day. + +The very difficult question of ventilation below was carefully +considered. It is one of the most important and serious matters that can +come under the consideration of the commander of an Arctic expedition. +Nothing is so essential to the preservation of health as the pure and +free circulation of air on the living deck. + +In this respect we were not so well off as our predecessors, for they, +being supplied with the Sylvester heating apparatus, were able to admit +a more constant current of air, and thus keep their habitable deck in a +better state and more free from condensation than ours. We found it a +very difficult matter to prevent in the slightest degree the +accumulation of moisture on the beams overhead, caused by the +condensation formed by the number of people living on the deck, and by +the vapour arising from the galley fire. Several up-takes and down-takes +were fitted in holes cut through the upper deck in our attempts to +remedy this serious defect, but as a rule they had little effect in +counteracting it. Men were incessantly employed during the winter in +wiping the moisture off the beams with cloths. If the hatchway doors +were kept open, even for a short time, this moisture was at once +converted into ice, which, of course, thawed and dripped immediately as +the temperature was raised. This drip was a constant source of annoyance +to us during the whole winter, and it was one to which we had, in part, +to submit. + +Whilst all these necessary preparations for the safety and warmth of the +ship were being carried out, the comforts of those who were about to +brave the rigours of an Arctic winter were not forgotten. Warm garments +were issued, consisting principally of a complete suit of seal-skins and +warm woollen guernseys. It must not be supposed that our seal-skins were +of the same material as those soft fur jackets so much in vogue with the +fair ones at home. Ours were obtained from the ordinary Greenland seals, +whose skins are covered with coarse bristly hairs. They were, +nevertheless, quite as warm, and were indeed our favourite articles of +clothing after the unpleasant aroma, which seems inseparable from +clothing of this description, had worn off, or until we had become so +accustomed to it as to fail to notice it! + +Carpet boots, or moccasins made of moose-skin, were worn on the feet. +The former were furnished with tops, made of duffel, reaching as high as +the knees, and with cork soles over an inch thick. With any temperature +below zero leather boots and shoes must be discontinued, as they freeze +so hard that the material loses its flexibility, and renders the foot in +consequence more liable to frost-bite. Moccasins, worn over a couple of +pairs of blanket wrappers, and a pair of thick woollen stockings +reaching above the knee, are undoubtedly the most comfortable foot-gear, +and the best adapted for low temperatures. Blanket wrappers are, as +their name indicates, strips of blanket, generally about sixteen inches +square, worn folded round the feet in lieu of socks and stockings, than +which they are infinitely warmer. + +As a rule, officers and men were dressed alike. Occasionally some of the +former would make their appearance in long fur coats with hoods that +they had obtained from the Hudson's Bay Company's store and other places +in London, but the majority adhered to the clothing supplied to them by +Government. + +A special winter routine was made out, and commenced shortly after the +return of the sledge parties. It was strictly adhered to through the +long winter night that ensued. + +I must not omit to mention the duty of keeping open the "fire hole"--a +very necessary and important precaution, that must be taken, in order to +be able to obtain a supply of water in case of fire breaking out on +board. As a rule, in all ships that have wintered in the Arctic Regions, +the water has frozen below the suction valves of the pumps, thus +rendering them totally useless. In order, therefore, to obtain water, a +hole was invariably cut through the ice near the ship, which was +generally placed in charge of the quarter-master of the watch, whose +duty it was from time to time to clear off the young ice from its +surface, so that at any moment water might be obtained in buckets. In +the "Alert," in consequence of our valves being much lower, our pumps +were never incapacitated from this cause; still they were liable to be +rendered useless by the water in the pipes becoming frozen. We therefore +always kept our fire-hole in working order. It was close to the bow of +the vessel, and was inclosed by a snow hut, so as to guard against the +danger of anybody falling in whilst walking about in the dark. By fixing +a tide-pole in the hole, and by devising a self-registering apparatus +with a line leading from the tide-pole to the forecastle of the "Alert," +we were able to obtain a very complete and valuable series of tidal +observations. From having the registering-gauge on board the ship, these +observations were continued uninterruptedly, and were unaffected by +gales of wind or bad weather, that would otherwise have prevented any +one from going outside the vessel in order to note them. + +Thermometric observations were, as may be imagined, very carefully +attended to, and the temperatures both inside and outside the ship duly +registered. Maximum and minimum thermometers, by which the greatest heat +and the greatest cold for each consecutive twenty-four hours were +recorded, were established in different places, and were noted every day +at noon by an officer especially appointed for that duty. + +Each compartment in the ship was supplied with one of these +thermometers, and on the living deck the temperatures at three different +heights--namely, at the deck, about half-way up, and at the beams--were +daily registered. For the outside air one of the ice-saw triangles was +erected on the floe, sufficiently distant from the ship to neutralize +any influence that might be derived from her presence, and on this, at +the height of about twelve feet, were placed several thermometers. In +addition to these, there were other thermometers on the hill about a +quarter of a mile from the ship, and about one hundred yards above the +level of the sea, so that we were able to obtain a correct mean of the +true temperature of the air. We were also able to ascertain the +temperature of the snow, and the ground at different depths; and also, +by means of solar radiation thermometers, we succeeded, on the return of +the sun, in getting the temperature due to its rays at various +altitudes. + + + + +CHAPTER XIV. + +THE ROYAL ARCTIC THEATRE. + + + "Haste thee, Nymph, and bring with thee + Jest and youthful jollity, + Quips, and cranks, and wanton wiles, + Nods, and becks, and wreathed smiles, + Sport that wrinkled Care derides, + And Laughter holding both his sides." + + MILTON. + +Sir Edward Parry, during his first and subsequent winters in the Arctic +Regions, fully recognized the importance of not only exercising and +improving the minds of those under his command, during the long period +of enforced inaction, but also of amusing them, and letting them feel +that they also were assisting in the amusement of their shipmates. To do +this he instituted an evening school on the lower deck, the officers +acting as teachers; and he established periodicals, dramatic and other +entertainments, in which he himself joined and took a conspicuous part. + +His wise example has been generally followed by the different +expeditions that subsequently wintered in the Arctic Regions. + +It is, in fact, very necessary to exercise both the physical and mental +powers of the men during the dark months, for when once the ship has +been safely established in winter quarters little work remains to be +done. The officers are constantly employed in taking and working up +observations in various branches of science; but the seaman has little +to do but reflect on, and possibly brood over, his situation. It is, +therefore, absolutely essential that some means should be devised to +drive from him all unpleasant thoughts, and to make him feel that it is +in his power to relieve the tedium of what would otherwise be a long and +monotonous winter. + +Each ship had been provided, before leaving England, with a +printing-press, and an officer and seaman[1] had been instructed in its +use. + +As soon as it was set up and in working order, the following prospectus +was issued by the "firm." + + + "THE ARCTIC PRINTING OFFICE. + + "Messrs. Giffard and Symons beg to inform the public that they have + obtained--at an immense cost and with infinite trouble--possession of + the extensive premises, lately occupied by Mr. Clements Markham, + situated in Trap Lane, within half a minute's walk of the foremost + Quarter Deck Ladder, and easily accessible to all parts of the city. + + "They have fitted up their new establishment--_regardless of + expense_--with all the _latest inventions_ and _newest machinery_, to + enable them to carry on the noble art of printing in a style and with + a rapidity hitherto quite unattainable. + + "They therefore expect from the public that support and assistance + which it always gives to the _truly deserving_. + + "Charges moderate. No credit given. All work required to be executed + to be paid for in advance. + + "N.B. Everything undertaken promptly and correctly executed. + + "H.M.S. 'Alert,' + + "July 28, 1875." + + +The "cost" and "trouble" alluded to in this production, that were +expended in obtaining a convenient place in which to carry out the +"noble art of printing," were caused by the fact that our photographers +were equally anxious, with our printers, to possess themselves of the +small cabin lately occupied by my cousin, and which is so +grandiloquently alluded to as "extensive premises." In fact, for some +little time it was a very sore and vexed question between those two +celebrated and energetic firms. Trap Lane was so called in consequence +of the after-hold being immediately outside the door of the cabin; and +it occasionally served as a very disagreeable kind of man-trap when, +through inadvertence, the hatch had not been replaced. As this part of +the ship was, during the early part of her commission, in total +darkness, owing to the piles of stores that were stowed in every +available corner, it is no wonder that unsuspecting individuals should +occasionally have fallen into the trap! + +Our printing-press was, it is almost needless to say, of great use to us +during the winter; for, although it never printed very much for the +public service, it was constantly called into requisition for the +purpose of striking off programmes for our dramatic and other +entertainments; and on such important events as birthdays and +Christmas-day we indulged in the extravagance of printed bills of fare. +On the whole the printing establishment on board the "Alert" tended very +materially to beguile the tedium of our long nights, and must therefore +be regarded as a decided success. + +Our school was opened on the 1st of November; from which date, until the +reappearance of the sun, the attendance was regular and constant. It was +composed of nearly the whole ship's company, and was divided into +classes under the direct superintendence of the officers. Reading, +writing, history, arithmetic, and navigation were the principal +subjects in which the pupils were instructed. + +The school was held on the lower deck between eight and nine o'clock in +the evening, the classes occupying the different mess-tables. Only two +men out of the entire ship's company were unable to read and write, and +these two men were placed in a class with two others, who were unable to +read and write English.[2] This class was presided over by the doctor, +who kindly volunteered to devote himself to the instruction of the +"cripples," as they were facetiously called. + +As an illustration of the improvement which has taken place in the +education of the men belonging to the Royal Navy during the last +half-century, it may be mentioned that, whereas in Parry's time it was +quite the exception to find a man that could read or write, with us the +exception was entirely the other way, only two men out of fifty-five +being ignorant of those accomplishments. + +Never were seen such painstaking and willing scholars as our men showed +themselves to be. It is impossible to conceive a more orderly or +well-conducted school, and it was a pleasure to the masters to devote +their time to classes that evinced such an earnest desire of acquiring +knowledge as did those on board the "Alert." + +Here might be observed a staid old seaman, whose great brawny hand +appeared more suited to grasp the marline-spike than the pen, vainly +endeavouring, with his elbows squared, his weather-beaten face close +down over his work, and his tongue thrust out, to arrive at some +satisfactory result in a simple addition sum. As a contrast to this, at +the opposite table might be seen a smart young sailor, who had distanced +all his competitors in arithmetic, asking abstruse questions in +mensuration of such a nature as to make even his tutor feel +uncomfortable! + +After the classes were dismissed, the men enjoyed an uninterrupted +evening to themselves. Games of various descriptions, such as chess, +bagatelle, draughts, and cribbage, had been purchased for their +amusement before leaving England, and were in constant requisition +during the winter. A large space on the starboard side of the deck, +abaft the living deck, was allotted to the smokers, and here were held +our dramatic and weekly entertainments on Thursdays. On Sundays Divine +service was performed in the same place. + +Books were also a source of great amusement and interest to many of the +men who were studiously inclined, as the well-thumbed volumes in our +library soon testified. Several men wrote regular journals, which were +even kept up by a few whilst they were sledging. Amongst the officers, +chess, backgammon, and a rubber in the captain's cabin, formed the chief +amusements. Although gambling is discountenanced (or ought to be) on +board every well-regulated man of war, we so far forgot ourselves as to +indulge largely in this vice. Seldom was a game played without a stake +on the result! The stakes, too, were exorbitant, frequently as much as +one lucifer match per game! It must be remembered that matches were very +scarce and precious articles with us, and it was therefore a very high +and valuable stake. On one occasion, one of my messmates was so rash as +to wager a tallow-candle on the result of a game; but this was an offer +of such magnitude that no one was sufficiently brave or sporting to +accept it. + +Among the many valuable gifts showered upon us by kind and generous +friends at home was an excellent piano, and fortunately amongst the +officers there was a very talented musician, to whose good nature and +willing efforts to please must be attributed many a pleasant hour, when +our hearts were warmed by well-known airs bringing back happy home +memories. + +Thursday evenings were always devoted to dramatic entertainments, +magic-lantern exhibitions, instructive lectures, reading, and music both +vocal and instrumental. These entertainments were kept up with the same +spirit, and without a break, during the whole winter. They went by the +name of our "Thursday Pops," and afforded much pleasure and amusement. +They were announced to the general Arctic public by the following +printed notice, which was widely circulated. + + + H.M.S. "ALERT." + + THURSDAY POPULAR ENTERTAINMENTS. + + On Thursday, the 11th of November, 1875, will commence a series of + popular entertainments, that will consist of lectures, readings, + recitations, and music, both vocal and instrumental, etc. No trouble + or expense have been spared in obtaining the services of a great + number of the most talented men of the day. The entertainment will be + given in the airy and commodious hall situated in Funnel Row. + + PROGRAMME: + + _Astronomical Lecture_ (with discussion) Capt. NARES. + _Song_ "I knew that I was dreaming" Mr. GOOD. + _Song_ "Watercresses" Mr. SHIRLEY. + _Reading_ "The Jumping Frog" Dr. MOSS. + _Song_ "An Englishman am I" Mr. CANE. + _Song_ "Broken down" Mr. BRYANT. + _Glee_ "The Wreath" Messrs. ALDRICH, PULLEN, and RAWSON. + _Song_ "The White Squall" Mr. MASKELL. + + God save the Queen. + + No encores. Doors open at 7.30. Sledges may be ordered at 9 o'clock + + Messrs. Giffard and Symons, Printing Office, Trap Lane. + + +This was the first notification issued regarding our weekly +entertainments, and, coming out a day or two before the performance, it +naturally caused considerable excitement and flutter amongst the Arctic +playgoing world! + +Except on the evenings exclusively devoted to the legitimate drama, +these entertainments were always preceded by a lecture delivered by one +of the officers, on some interesting and at the same time instructive +subject, adapted to the knowledge and intelligence of the audience. A +list of the lectures so delivered cannot fail to be of interest. + + + 1. On astronomy Capt. Nares. + 2. A few words on magnetism Lieut. Giffard. + 3. On geology Capt. Feilden. + 4. A few words on meteorology Lieut. Aldrich. + 5. A few words on steam Mr. Wootton. + 6. Mock moons under the microscope Dr. Moss. + 7. On light Lieut. Parr. + 8. An historical lecture Mr. White. + 9. A few words on astronomy Com. Markham. + 10. Our food in the arctic regions Dr. Colan. + 11. A few words on arctic plants Rev. H. W. Pullen. + 12. On hydrostatics Lieut. May. + 13. Sledging experiences Capt. Nares. + + +Nearly all the officers took part in these lectures, and I have not the +slightest doubt that all would have done so had there been any more +Thursdays to spare. They were eagerly listened to by the ship's +company, and afforded quite as much pleasure as the readings and songs +that followed, in the performance of which they all, with only one or +two exceptions, took part. + +[Illustration: ROYAL ARCTIC THEATRE--SCENE FROM "ALADDIN AND THE +WONDERFUL SCAMP."] + +The first real dramatic entertainment came off on the following +Thursday. Our plan was for the men to act one piece and the officers +another, and this was found to work very well. But the rehearsals were a +difficulty, and we were frequently compelled to shut ourselves up in our +own cabins in order to secure the necessary quiet and privacy to enable +us to become perfect in our different parts. + +The costumes were, of course, a subject of much discussion and deep +interest. The making up of dresses, and the manufacture of wigs from +musk-ox skins and oakum, sorely taxed our ingenuity and employed minds +and fingers that had hitherto been strangers to such occupations. Many +were the needles broken, and many were the fingers pricked, before our +ideal costumes were realized. Eiderdown quilts had to be converted into +the robes of a lovely oriental princess; old uniform coats were +beautified with spangles and tinsel, and appeared as the fashionable +habiliments of a dandy of the seventeenth century; whilst a wicked +magician, of the Hebrew persuasion, appeared in a coat of unmistakeable +clerical cut. + +Egerton was an indefatigable stage manager, and the scenic arrangements +under the direction of Moss, who was also the artist, could not be +excelled. Aldrich at the piano (as our orchestra) was a host in himself, +adding materially to the success of the entertainments. In fact, +officers and men vied with each other in their endeavours to promote +amusement and hilarity, and if their histrionic abilities were not of +the highest order, the zeal and energy of the actors fully compensated +for this deficiency. + +We enjoyed a rare freedom from harsh ill-natured critics. These pests do +not venture across the Arctic Circle. All who visited the Royal Arctic +Theatre (re-opened after a lapse of twenty-one years) came with a firm +resolve to please or be pleased. Acting upon this determination, our +entertainments were bound to be successful. The following prologue, +composed for the occasion by Pullen, was spoken at the opening of our +theatre, on Thursday, the 18th of November, 1875. + + "Kind friends, with kindly greetings met to-day, + We bid you welcome to our opening play: + You, whose indulgent smile forbids the fear + Of scornful wit or captious critic here. + To-day we welcome you, and not to-night, + For all is noon with us--all summer bright; + And though the southern sun has ceased to pour + His glittering rays upon our ice-bound shore-- + Has ceased awhile to touch with drops of gold + The crystal corners of our hummocks bold; + We bear a warm soft light that never fades-- + A lustrous light amid these Greenland shades; + All trustful of each other's love, we learn + With steady flame our lamp of Hope to burn; + And suns may set, and twilights disappear-- + They shall not rob us of our Christmas cheer; + Nor blinding drift, nor frozen wave, shall chill + Our laughter glad--for laugh, brave boys, we will; + Kindling yet once again the genial glow + Of happy English homes on Arctic floe. + + "Yet once again; for none would here forget + We are but sons of fathers living yet; + In work and play alike, we but renew + The deeds of men who taught us what to do. + And though, more favoured than the rest, we soar + To loftier flights than theirs who went before; + Though ours the boast, by skilful guidance led, + In virgin climes our shifting scene to spread; + We love to read on history's faithful page, + Of ancient triumphs on our Northern stage, + And boldly for our brave forerunners claim + An Arctic 'cast' already known to fame. + + "Now let the tell-tale curtain rise, and say + What we have done to while your hours away. + Such as we have, we bring you of our best, + And to your kind forbearance leave the rest. + One only grief is ours, and you shall share + With us the burden of that gentle care. + One cherished form we miss--one touch alone-- + One glance of love--one tender, thrilling tone. + Ah! in the sweet homes of our native isle + The dear ones move, and minister, and smile. + We would not wish them here, but this we know, + Their thoughts are with us every step we go: + Their life sets northward o'er the cold, grey sea: + They live in wondering what our life may be; + And heart draws near to heart, and soul to soul, + Till each has found its true magnetic pole. + + "God bless and keep them in His mighty hand-- + Our wives and sweethearts, and the dear old land!" + +The prologue was warmly applauded. At its conclusion the curtain rose, +and the following programme, showing the plays that were acted and the +cast of characters, was proceeded with. + + + THE ROYAL ARCTIC THEATRE + + Will be re-opened on Thursday next, the 18th instant, by the powerful + dramatic company of + + HYPERBOREANS! + + Under the distinguished patronage of Capt. Nares, the members of the + Arctic Exploring Expedition, and all the nobility and gentry of the + neighbourhood. + + The world-wide reputation of this company is quite unrivalled. The + manager has spared neither trouble nor expense in forming this + company, and has selected none but the very best _artistes_--the + ladies being from England--who, having numerous other engagements, can + remain for a short time only. + + The scenic arrangements, under the control and manipulation of that + celebrated artist, Professor Moss, _must_ be acknowledged to be + unparalleled in the experience of ages and of the highest order. + + The orchestra, under the management of Signore Aldrichi (lately from + Milan) cannot fail to be appreciated by the audience. + + At 7.30 will commence the celebrated nautical farce + + + THE CHOPS OF THE CHANNEL. + + CHARACTERS: + + Leander Hellespont Mr. Stuckberry. + Mr. Counter Balance Mr. Woolley. + Gratings (Steward) Mr. Burroughs. + Mrs. Hellespont Mdlle. Francombi. + Mrs. Veneer Mdme. Maskelli. + + Time The present day. + Scene Saloon of a Boulogne steamer. + + Interval of ten minutes. + + During the interval the renowned vocalist, Mr. Stone, will sing THE + IRISH BARBER. + + After which will be performed the screaming tragico-comico burlesque + entitled + + + VILIKINS AND HIS DINAH. + + CHARACTERS: + + Master Grumbleton Gruffin, a rich (soap) merchant of London, the + original parient Com. Markham. + + Baron Boski Bumble, ancestor of the celebrated beadle, the original + lovier so gallant and gay Mr. Egerton. + + William Wilkins, socially and convivially known as Vilikins, a young + apprentice, in desperate love with Mr. Rawson. + + Dinah Gruffin, the sole feminine offspring of the above-mentioned + soap-merchant, in love with the aforesaid Vilikins Mdlle. Blanc. + + Scene 1 Lawn of Gruffin's house. + Scene 2 Interior of Gruffin's house. + Scene 3 Lawn of Gruffin's house. + + God save the Queen. + + +This, the first appearance of the "Hyperboreans," was eminently +successful, and elicited both laughter and applause from our very +appreciative and demonstrative audience. Mademoiselle Blanc (Mr. White) +made a fascinating little Dinah of six feet high, dressed in a Dolly +Varden costume, whilst the other ladies were all that could be desired, +and looked charming in their gorgeous silk and muslin dresses. + +In this respect we had a decided advantage over our consort, the +"Discovery;" for her space on board being somewhat limited, the building +of an ice theatre on the floe became necessary. Here, though the +building was spacious and elegant, the temperature was rarely above +zero! The ladies were therefore unable to indulge in low dresses, and a +close observer might have detected underclothing composed of seal-skins +beneath their otherwise gay and brilliant costumes. + +Occasionally, as the two following bills will show, we were agreeably +surprised by the announcement of an entire change of programme. + + + H.M.S. "ALERT." + + THURSDAY POPS. + + December 16th, 1875. + + Great attraction! The latest novelty of the season!! + The Wizard of the North!!! [finger symbol] For one night only!!!! + + PROGRAMME: + + The entertainment will commence with + A FEW WORDS ON STEAM . . Mr. Wootton. + After which the only and veritable + + WIZARD OF THE NORTH, + + _en route_ to his hyperborean domicile, + + will exhibit and expound some of his original and inimitable illusions + and feats of prestidigitation, consisting of the following wonderful + and startling tricks:-- + + The vanishing egg. + The magic die. + The mysterious sixpence. + The magic shawl. + A startling surgical operation. + The marvellous watch trick. + Tricks with cards. + The magic bag trick. + The wonderful generating hat. + The astounding prestidigitorial metamorphosis, performed with + an egg and silk handkerchief. + The inexhaustible bottle. + Our very able and renowned pianist, Lieut. Aldrich, will, as usual, + preside at the orchestra. + To commence at 7.30 precisely. + + God save the Queen. + + Messrs. Giffard and Symons, Printing Office, Trap Lane. + + + THURSDAY POPS. + + H.M.S. "ALERT." + + January 20th, 1876. + + GRAND PHANTASMAGORIAL EXHIBITION + and + MUSICAL ENTERTAINMENT. + + To commence with + A FEW WORDS ON ASTRONOMY, by Com. Markham, + Illustrated by the aid of a magic lantern. + To be followed by a series of + + DISSOLVING VIEWS, + + Consisting of coloured representations of + Remarkable places in England, + Photographic sketches of foreign countries, etc. + After which, the wonderful and startling adventures of + + SINDBAD THE SAILOR + + Will be related by the Rev. H. W. Pullen. + In the next place Com. Markham will give a life-like and + entertaining display of various specimens in + + NATURAL HISTORY; + and + Lieut. Aldrich will recite the true and touching + TALE OF A TUB. + + To conclude with some highly amusing + + COMIC SCENES. + + To commence at 7.30 precisely. + + God save the Queen. + + Messrs. Giffard and Symons, Printing Office, Trap Lane. + + +These amusements may be considered light and frivolous, for men engaged +in such a serious undertaking as that upon which we were embarked; still +they all tended to one point--namely, the successful issue of the +enterprise. For they kept the minds of the men employed with pleasant +and agreeable thoughts, drove away all feelings of tedium and dulness, +and thus assisted largely in promoting the general well-being and +satisfactory sanitary condition of the expedition during the long night +of nearly one hundred and fifty days. They effectually banished +despondency, and assisted in making all hands cheerful, happy, and +contented. + + +FOOTNOTES: + + [1] Lieutenant Giffard and Robert Symons, A.B. + + [2] Petersen, the Danish interpreter, and the ship's cook Dominick a + native of Gibraltar. + + + + +CHAPTER XV. + +WINTER OCCUPATIONS AND AMUSEMENTS. + + + "Darkness, Light's eldest brother, his birthright + Claimed o'er this world, and to heaven chased light." + + DONNE. + + "Behold the wandering moon + Riding near her highest noon, + Like one that hath been led astray + Through the heavens' wide pathless way; + And oft as if her head she bowed, + Stooping through a fleecy cloud." + + MILTON. + +The sun, as has been mentioned in a previous chapter, took its final +departure on the 11th of October. From this date darkness gradually +settled upon us, reaching its greatest intensity on the 21st of +December. The type of a leading article in the _Times_ newspaper was +taken by us as a test of the darkness. This was last read in the open +air at midday on the 6th of November, and then only by a few with a +great deal of difficulty. Many unsuccessful attempts were made on +subsequent days. For a fortnight on either side of the 21st of December, +the difference in the light between noon and midnight, on a clear day, +was almost imperceptible, on a dull day it was quite inappreciable. +Occasionally, at other times, at midday a faint luminous band might be +observed along the southern horizon, but this was all the indication we +had of the difference between day and night. + +We did not forget to celebrate on the 21st of October the Battle of +Trafalgar, remembering that our great naval hero, Nelson,[1] was himself +an old Arctic navigator. Our caterers provided us with a good dinner, +and we were regaled, as a great indulgence on such an auspicious +occasion, with an extra glass of wine! Two elaborate bills of fare were +placed on the table, on one of which was very creditably sketched the +"Alert" in winter quarters, and on the other was depicted the Battle of +Trafalgar, with the motto on each, "England expects every man _this_ day +to do his duty!" As there was a good dinner on the table, and the cold +weather had made us wondrous hungry, we all responded nobly to the call! + +The 5th of November was another anniversary that could not pass +unnoticed. On that evening the effigy of Guy Fawkes, ingeniously stuffed +with squibs and seated on a cask well smeared with tar, was duly paraded +round the upper deck, accompanied by the drums and fifes playing the +"Rogue's March." It was then dragged, on a sledge, to the summit of a +neighbouring hummock, and there solemnly burnt in presence of the whole +ship's company. The band continued to play until the lips and fingers of +the fifers became so frost-bitten that they were compelled to desist. It +was a novel sight to see the dusky forms of the men, clad in seal-skins, +dancing round a blazing fire on the top of an enormous mass of ice, +whilst in the background was the ship with her masts and yards thickly +coated with snow, and all her ropes clearly defined in the bright +"bonfire light." A beautiful balloon, manufactured by Moss out of +various coloured tissue-papers, also formed a prominent feature in the +evening's display. Unfortunately, shortly after it was released, and +before it had ascended to any very great height, it caught fire and was +quickly consumed. + +It must not be supposed, because I enumerate all the little incidents +connected with the amusements of the men, that other and more important +work was neglected. On the contrary, the officers were unceasingly +engaged during the winter in taking scientific observations in their +respective departments; each officer being awarded some special subject. +These included observations in astronomy, magnetism, electricity, +meteorology, tides, spectrum analysis, observations for the detection of +the polarization of light, chlorine, and specific gravity estimations. +The pursuit of these investigations was at times a matter of great +difficulty and extreme personal discomfort. It necessitated attendance +in, and consequent exposure to, a temperature many degrees below zero, +for several hours at a time. Under these circumstances it is no easy +matter to handle delicate instruments, the manipulation of which, even +in a temperate climate, requires the utmost care and caution. Made +extremely brittle by the intense cold, a fall to any of the small metal +movable parts of an instrument, such as the needles, would be fatal, yet +it is almost impossible to touch them with the uncovered hand. The +breath freezing on the arcs and verniers of the instruments during the +time of observation, and on the glasses of the telescopes and mirrors, +adds seriously to the difficulty; whilst the unequal contraction of +different metals during intensely cold weather renders some of the +instruments totally useless. + +Paraselenæ, or mock moons, and auroras were of frequent occurrence, but +none of the latter were sufficiently bright to call for special mention. +These phenomena were always carefully examined, and the results +recorded. As a rule the auroras consisted of faint coruscations darting +across the heavens through the zenith, frequently in the form of an +irregular arch terminating at each end on the horizon, and generally +accompanied by various small luminous patches. + +The lunations of the moon were periods that were always looked forward +to, and gladly welcomed, affording as they did, on clear bright days, a +marked contrast to the gruesome darkness that generally prevailed. These +clear days were not inappropriately termed "moony" ones, and were taken +advantage of to perform all work that was considered necessary outside +the ship. + + "Rising in clouded majesty, at length + The moon unveiled her peerless light + And o'er the dark her silver mantle threw." + +Even on these bright silvery "moony" days it was unsafe to venture to +any distance from the ship, as the sudden "veiling of her peerless +light" by fog or clouds would produce total darkness, and so prevent the +unfortunate wanderer from finding his way back. + +Great attention was paid to the important duty of seeing that a proper +amount of exercise was taken by every soul on board. Open-air exercise +was the more essential to health, because the air we breathed on board +was not as pure as might be desired. This was inevitable, and the evil +could only be partially counteracted by strict attention to the +enforcing of outdoor exercise. A walk was constructed along the floe +near the ship, for a distance of half a mile, marked at every two or +three yards by small heaps of empty preserved meat tins, placed there by +our industrious doctor. We were thus able to take our exercise along +this promenade even on the darkest day, and the number of times that +each individual walked up and down during the day was proudly recounted +at the dinner-table. The darkness prevented walks to any greater +distance for a considerable time. This then was our fashionable lounge, +and was called the "Ladies' Mile" after the drive of the same name in +Hyde Park. + +Our greatest annoyance was undoubtedly caused by the incessant drip in +our cabins and elsewhere on board. So bad was it that all books had to +be removed from the shelves, or from any position where they were in +contact with the ship's side or the beams overhead. Especially over our +beds did we suffer, and could only make certain of a dry night's rest by +taking the precaution of nailing a blanket over the bed, or sloping one +as an awning! No means that we could devise, although many experiments +were tried on the living deck of the men as well as by the officers in +their cabins, lessened the condensation from which we suffered, and +which increased with any rise of temperature. One officer went so far as +to light, and keep burning for a whole day, no less than fifty-two +candles and one lamp in his cabin, hoping by these means to dry it +thoroughly; but although it answered the purpose for a day or two, at an +enormous cost, it was soon as bad as ever. During the time of his +_illumination_ he succeeded in raising the temperature of his cabin +from 40° to 75°! It is decidedly unpleasant, whilst writing, to have a +continual stream of water pouring down upon your head and upon your +paper; yet it is impossible to prevent this disagreeable drip. + +One of my messmates, more fortunate than his brother officers, had +brought an umbrella with him, and this being spread over his chair +protected him from the wet, and thus enabled him to read or write in +comparative comfort, and, what was perhaps of greater consequence, with +the perfect preservation of his temper. + +It may appear like affectation on my part when I say that any rise of +temperature, during the winter, was viewed by us with dissatisfaction. +Clad as we were to resist a cold of many degrees below zero, we were +made absolutely uncomfortable by the _heat_ when the thermometer +indicated any degree with a + sign. The only real good that we derived +from such a rise of temperature was that we were able more freely to +throw open the doors leading down to the lower deck, and thus admit a +thorough circulation of fresh air; on one occasion during the month of +November the temperature rose as high as 23°, and in December it reached +the unprecedented height (for that season of the year) of 35°! These, of +course, were only occasional jumps, never of long duration, and were +apparently produced by gales of wind from the S.W. Our experience at the +"Alert's" winter quarters was that a breeze of wind raised the +temperature, and that our coldest weather was always registered on +perfectly still and clear days! During boisterous tempestuous weather +the pack, although stationary, moaned and groaned weirdly, as if unhappy +gnomes, imprisoned in the cold grasp of the frozen sea, were bewailing +their hard fate, and pleading for release from their icy fetters. The +young ice, too, in the vicinity of the ship cracked in a most alarming +manner, each crack being accompanied by a sharp and loud report, and +formed great fissures, leaving the surface, which had hitherto been +smooth and level, rugged and uneven. Well might the "Ancient Mariner," +describing such a scene, say-- + + "It cracked and growled, and roared and howled, + Like noises in a swound." + +This movement of the ice, slight as it was, exposed the "Alert" to great +pressure, and although it did not amount to an actual "nip," nor did it +in any way cause injury to the ship, it made her list over several +degrees. Now, as we in the ward-room were on a limited allowance of +wine, namely two glasses a day, this heeling over of the vessel caused +us great annoyance, as it prevented our glasses from being filled to the +brim, a custom that had been rigidly followed out since leaving England. +This curtailment of our "rights," as we were pleased to call them, was +very naturally regarded with a certain amount of disfavour. In order to +lessen, if we could not entirely rectify this evil, we supplied +ourselves with ingeniously made little wedges, which, being placed under +the _lee_ side of the wine-glass, brought it so nearly upright that we +succeeded in very nearly getting our full allowance. + +The birthdays of the officers were invariably celebrated by the best +dinners that our indefatigable and energetic caterers could provide, +always having in view the chance of the ship spending three winters in +the Arctic Regions. As a special indulgence we were also allowed on +these occasions a glass of port wine after dinner, a treat that we +ordinarily had only twice a week. The composition of the _menus_ for +these sumptuous feasts was always a subject of anxious care and +forethought on the part of those who were entrusted with this important +duty. Long and earnest were the consultations that were held, before one +of them was satisfactorily composed and placed in the printer's hands. + + + [Illustration] + + MENU. + + POTAGES. + Mulligatawny. + + POISSONS. + Pégouse à la Couverture de Laine.[2] + + ENTRÉES. + Petits Pâtés d'Homard à la Chasse.[3] + Rognons à la Pain rôti. + + RELEVÉS. + Mouton rôti à l'Anglais. Tongues on Gimbals. + + ENTREMETS. + Poudin aux Raisins. + Blanc-manger à la Hummock. + Petits Pâtés d'Hahis à la place d'Eccleston. + + DESSERT. + Poudin glacé à la Hyperborean. + Figues. Noce. + Gâteau à l'lrlandais. + Café et Liqueur á la Jesson. + + _November 11th_, 1875. + + +As we were living in a land in which little could be obtained in the way +of change, the object was to diversify as much as possible the names of +the same viands, so as to make the guests believe that the dinners were +entirely different. The names given to some of the dishes were decidedly +original. On the previous page is the first _printed_ bill of fare that +was placed on the table. + +Shortly after the ship had been established in winter quarters, a +careful calculation was made of the amount of fresh meat we possessed. + +By fresh meat, I mean meat of the musk-oxen and sheep that we had +killed, and not the fresh _preserved_ meat, of which we had an ample +supply. It was found we had sufficient to yield fourteen meals, at the +rate of one pound per man per meal. It was, therefore, determined to +issue a fresh meat meal twice every three weeks, and, at the doctor's +recommendation, this was done on two consecutive days. In his opinion +this method of apportioning it was the most conducive to health. + +Beer, of which we had been provided with ten hogsheads specially brewed +for us by Allsopp, was issued, so long as a cask was "on tap," twice a +week. On these days half the allowance of spirits only was served out. + +On Sundays Divine service was regularly performed between decks; the +morning and evening services being read on alternate Sundays. + +Prayers were read daily on the upper deck. The Holy Communion was +celebrated on the first Sunday in every month. Considering the small +number of men from among whom the choir was selected, and the +necessarily slight amount of practice they could have, the singing at +church was very creditable. Aldrich played the accompaniment on a +harmonium that we had obtained from the ward-room officers of the +"Valorous," before parting company with that ship at Disco. The credit +of originating and instructing the choir was, of course, due to Pullen +and Aldrich. + +Medical inspections were held regularly on the first day of each month, +when every officer and man was minutely questioned and examined. Nothing +could be more satisfactory than the medical report of the sanitary +condition of the men at the conclusion of these examinations. + +The amount of compulsory open-air exercise that had to be taken by each +man was two hours a day; but most of the men, that is to say all the +working hands exclusive of cooks, stewards, and servants, were +invariably at work, _outside_ the ship, for at least five hours a day. A +very favourite and at the same time healthy pastime of the men in their +leisure hours, when the moon was up, was that of "tabogganing." This +consisted in dragging one of our small satellites or dog-sledges to the +summit of a neighbouring hill, and then coming down, two or three on the +sledge, at the rate of about sixty or seventy miles an hour! The men +enjoyed this amazingly, and used to race one sledge against another. As +they were not very expert in the management of these "taboggans," and +had little confidence in their own steering, they would, when they saw +there was a chance of their sledge coming to grief, tumble out and roll +for some distance after it. Fortunately the snow was soft and they never +came to harm. + +Rawson, who had acquired a knowledge of this sport in Canada, was the +first to introduce it in the far north. The dexterity with which he +managed his "taboggan" was marvellous, and he would frequently, +accompanied by one of his messmates, come down the steep side of one of +the highest floe-bergs in the vicinity of the ship. Poor "Nellie" could +never understand whence the motive power of these machines was derived, +and used to rush round barking at us in a frantic manner when we first +started, until left far behind plunging in the soft snow and struggling +to keep pace with us. + +It was wonderful how this dog withstood the cold. The colder the day the +more she appeared to enjoy it, dashing about in the soft fine snow and +picking up pieces of ice in her mouth for the purpose of having them +thrown for her. It must be remembered that for any one of us to touch a +piece of ice with the uncovered hand in a temperature 50° below zero +would have been a very serious matter; yet Nellie was able, in the same +temperature, to carry pieces of ice, or bits of metal or stone, in her +mouth for hours together. The only cause of annoyance to the poor old +doggie was the caking or balling of the snow between her toes, which +used to trouble her a good deal. To obviate this, four little flannel +moccasins were made for her feet; but, although she enjoyed wearing them +and seemed to be proud of her appearance in them, they had to be +discontinued, as we were afraid that the tying them on sufficiently +tight to prevent their coming off might stop the circulation of the +blood and thus produce frost-bite. On the whole, however, Nellie throve +wonderfully well, and until the following summer enjoyed perfect health. +She was my constant companion wherever I went, attending me during my +walks, and lying curled up at my feet in the observatory during the long +hours that I was employed taking magnetic observations. She always slept +in an arm-chair in my cabin, being provided with her own little blanket, +on which her name was embroidered. + +[Illustration: NELLIE.] + +Before concluding this chapter it will be as well to relate an +interesting and rather curious incident connected with one of our Eskimo +dogs. + +In Aldrich's sledge journey to Cape Joseph Henry, one of his dogs +(Sallie), being attacked with a fit, had to be cast off from the team +and was no more seen by him during that journey. + +On crossing the floe with my sledge party about a week after, we were +suddenly joined, to our great surprise, by an Eskimo dog which the men +readily recognized as Sallie; all our attempts to make her approach were +unsuccessful, although she followed us at a distance during the day and +hovered round our camp, picking up scraps of pemmican that had been +purposely left out for her during the night. She eluded all attempts at +being caught, running away on the ice and disappearing amongst the +hummocks. She followed us faithfully, at a distance, until the day we +returned to the ship, when she vanished altogether. She was last seen on +the floe about four miles from the "Alert." + +Amid the many preparations for the winter, poor Sallie was forgotten and +had almost passed out of recollection altogether, when one day in +December, more than _two_ months after she had been last seen, a strange +dog was observed hovering round the ship. This strange dog proved to be +the long-lost Sallie! + +No amount of coaxing would persuade her to come near us, and she was +eventually driven off by the other Eskimo dogs, and took refuge on the +pack. On the following day she again made her appearance, and this time +we succeeded in getting her on board and into a place of safety. She was +terribly thin and emaciated; but being well cared for and attended to, +she rapidly picked up, and was eventually the strongest and best dog in +our whole team. + +The question as to how she had existed during her long absence from the +ship was a difficult one to solve. At first it was surmised that she had +attached herself to a pack of wolves; but this idea was scouted, as no +tracks had been seen to lead us to believe that these animals existed in +our neighbourhood. It is not probable that she obtained anything from +the ship during the time she was missing, or that she picked up scraps +from the other dogs, for on her appearance she was at once driven away +by her old companions. The only probable conclusion that we could arrive +at was that she had supported life by hunting and feasting on lemmings, +for the traces of these little animals were the only indications that we +had of the existence, outside our own circle, of animal life. + + +FOOTNOTES: + + [1] Nelson served as a midshipman on board the "Carcass," in Captain + Phipps' North Polar Expedition in 1773. + + [2] Blanket wrappers were articles of wearing apparel. + + [3] The name of the cook was Hunt. + + + + +CHAPTER XVI. + +AN ARCTIC CHRISTMAS. + + + "So now is come our joyful'st feast, + Let every man be jolly, + Eache roome with yvie leaves is drest, + And every post with holly; + Now all our neighbours' chimneys smoke, + And Christmas blocks are burning; + Their ovens they with baked meats choke, + And all their spits are turning. + Without the door let sorrow lie, + And if, for cold, it hap to die, + We'll bury't in a Christmas pye, + And ever more be merry." + + WITHER. + +On the 21st of December the sun reached its greatest southern +declination. We felt on that day that we had cause for rejoicing. The +sun had arrived at the limit of its southern journey, and now it would, +every day, be travelling to the northward, and therefore in our +direction. So rapidly had the time passed that Christmas stole upon us +unawares, and we were only reminded of its approach by the strong odour +of good things being cooked that pervaded the whole ship, bringing to +our minds the fact that preparations for its celebration had actually +commenced. Nothing was omitted that could possibly add to the comfort +and enjoyment of the men on this day. The ship's stores were thrown +open and they were allowed to provide themselves with an unlimited +amount, so long as there was no waste, of flour, raisins, sugar, and +preserved fruits, and in addition to the regular daily allowance of +meat, a pound of musk-ox beef and a pound of mutton were issued to each +man. For the two previous days, during which they had been disturbed as +little as possible, the men were engaged in making the necessary +preparations for spending their Christmas as happily and as socially as +if they were in a more genial climate. It must be remembered that this +was a day looked forward to by all, not only in the light of a festival, +but because it was also regarded as the turning-point of the winter. +After Christmas every day would bring us nearer to the sun, whose bright +face we all so ardently wished to welcome once more. Moreover, Christmas +day, to a community situated as we were, "away from the busy haunts of +men," must always be regarded as an epoch, a day looked forward to, and +when passed, a day from which many events are dated. + +In addition to the supplies afforded by the stores of the ship, we were +largely indebted to kind, and in several instances unknown, friends and +well-wishers to the expedition in England for many little articles that +assisted to amuse our men during this festive season. Amongst these the +kind and generous ladies of Queenstown must not be forgotten. These +ladies had, previous to our departure from England, formed themselves +into a Committee, and had sent to each ship a large Christmas-box +containing many useful, and indeed valuable, articles. Each officer +received some little package, personally directed to himself, and every +man was presented with some pretty little Christmas-box. Nothing could +have been more happily thought of, and it would have done the fair +donors good could they but have witnessed the pleasure testified by the +recipients at the distribution of the contents of their case. + +I must not omit to mention another Christmas-box, kindly sent by Mr. +Mason, the inventor, I believe, of "Somebody's Luggage," and containing +all sorts of amusing little articles suitable either for decorating a +table or a Christmas-tree. + +Another act of kindness on the part of our friends in England was also +much appreciated by both officers and men. A young lady, a relative of +one of the officers, had taken the trouble to direct a letter to each +individual on board, containing a beautiful Christmas card. To make it +appear as if they had been actually delivered through the post, a +second-hand postage-stamp had been affixed to each envelope. Her kind +forethought afforded a great deal of pleasure to the recipients of those +letters. + +Christmas eve was spent very merrily by all on board the "Alert." The +piano was carried out from the ward-room to the main deck, where dancing +was kept up with great animation until eleven o'clock! It is wonderful +how fond the English man-of-war's man is of dancing. So long as he can +obtain music and a partner to dance with, without regard to sex, he will +continue to fling his legs about with great vigour until compelled by +heat and exhaustion to desist! The men on board the "Alert" were no +exception to this rule; one and all joined in the dance, and seemed +thoroughly to enjoy it. Poor Aldrich did not get a moment's peace. As +soon as one tune was finished, he was called upon for another. Polka, +waltz, and galop followed each other in rapid succession, officers and +men joining alike in the general hilarity of the evening. + +Christmas morning broke cold and clear; its stillness occasionally +interrupted by light puffs of wind from the S.W. Divine service was +performed in the forenoon, the pulpit being decorated with branches of +artificial holly. When church was over, a little exercise was taken on +the "ladies' mile." On my return I found my cabin brightened up by small +twigs of variegated holly, a delicate and touching attention on the part +of some of my messmates, who had provided themselves with artificial +branches of this plant before leaving England. At one o'clock, +everything being in readiness, the officers were invited to inspect the +lower deck. Preceded by our drum and fife band playing the "Roast Beef +of Old England," we paid a formal visit to the men's quarters. The lower +deck was beautifully and tastefully decorated with flags, coloured +tinsel paper, and artificial flowers, whilst the different mess tables +were literally groaning under the weight of the good cheer that adorned +them. Everything had a cheerful and comfortable appearance, and, above +all, the radiant healthy-looking faces, beaming with pleasure, that so +cordially and heartily greeted us with the compliments of the season. Of +course, dancing was the prominent feature of the afternoon, Aldrich, +with his usual good nature, being again victimized at the piano. At six +o'clock, for on such an important occasion we departed from our usual +dinner hour of half-past two, we all assembled in the ward-room for +dinner, and great was our astonishment and delight at seeing in the +centre of our table a magnificent bouquet of artificial flowers. This +was, I believe, the happy thought of a lady who had recently been +admitted into the circle of "Arctic relations." The bright-coloured +flowers, reminding us of home associations, were more thoroughly +appreciated than even the good dinner which was provided for us, for +which reference must be made to the following _menu_, composed by +Pullen:-- + +H.M.S. "ALERT." + + À la Juliènne soup is the _potage_ we favour, + And soles fried _au naturel_ serve us for fish; + We have cutlets and green peas of elegant flavour-- + Beef garnished with mushrooms--a true English dish. + + Then a mountain of beef from our cold Greenland valleys, + Overshadowing proudly boiled mutton hard by, + Till our appetite, waning, just playfully dallies + With a small slice of ham--then gives in with a sigh. + + For lo! a real English plum-pudding doth greet us, + And a crest of bright holly adorns its bold brow; + While the choicest mince pies are yet waiting to meet us: + Alas! are we equal to meeting them now? + + So we drink to our Queen, and we drink to the maiden, + The wife, or the mother, that holds us most dear; + And may we and our consort sail home richly laden + With the spoils of success, ere December next year! + +In addition to the bill of fare, the annexed poem by the same +accomplished author was printed and placed in front of each member of +the mess. + + On this glad Christmas Day, + While happy bells are flinging + O'er bright lands far away + Their burst of joyous singing, + We love to think that each sweet lay, + That sets those echoes ringing, + Hushed music from our icy bay + To loving hearts is bringing. + + Hushed music that shall tell + How He has left us never, + In whose dear sight we dwell, + Who aids our high endeavour; + Who, from the hearts that love us well, + Our short lives will not sever, + For whose good gifts our breasts shall swell + With grateful praise for ever! + +Our drum and fife band, of their own accord, played several airs very +creditably during our dinner, which was brought to a conclusion by a few +short speeches. In the evening dancing was again kept up with great +animation; every one appeared cheerful and happy. In no region of the +world could this Christmas-day have been spent with more mirth and more +genuine fellowship than it was by the little band of explorers, so far +removed from all home ties and associations, who were celebrating it +that day, in a latitude farther north than man had ever before +penetrated. + +On reviewing the events of the year we felt we had much to be thankful +for. We had succeeded, in spite of many dangers and difficulties, in +establishing our ship in winter quarters in a position farther north +than even some of the most sanguine had, at one time, dared to hope. The +English flag had been displayed, both by sea and by land, in a higher +northern latitude than any flag had ever before been seen, and although +our prospects of further exploration in a northerly direction were +somewhat damped, owing to the land trending west, we knew that there was +much to be done during the ensuing year in defining and exploring the +coasts to the east and to the west. A wide field of exploration was +still before us, and there was much useful work to be done during the +ensuing spring in a hitherto unknown region. + +Half our winter had passed, and although the long dark night of one +hundred and fifty days might, by some unacquainted with the many +resources we possessed to while away the time, be considered dull and +monotonous, monotony and despondency were unknown on board the good ship +"Alert." We all looked forward with eager hope to the return of the sun, +strong in our determination to do our best, and with our appetites for +sledging considerably whetted by the initiation we had received during +the autumn. + +Hitherto we had, with one exception, enjoyed perfect immunity from +sickness, and we all thought that if there was no cold weather in the +Arctic Regions to produce frost-bites, the appointments of medical +officers to the expedition, so far as their professional qualifications +were concerned, were undoubted sinecures. The frost-bites had, however, +been very severe, and at the end of the year there still remained on the +sick list four of the poor fellows who had been attacked during the +autumn sledging, three of whom had suffered amputation of the big toe. + +Compelled to keep to their beds, the winter to them must have, indeed, +been wearisome; but no word of complaint was ever uttered by them, and +they appeared as cheerful and in as good spirits as the best of us. +Their only distress was the idea of not being allowed, in consequence of +their misfortune, to participate in the spring campaign. The sequel, +however, proved, although they took no part in the _extended_ sledging +operations, how well and how nobly they worked in their brave endeavours +to assist and succour their poor, weak, and stricken comrades; but we +must not anticipate. + +We had hitherto experienced, in comparison with what we had been led to +expect, tolerably mild weather, as Arctic winter weather goes; and the +cold had not been so severe as we anticipated; -46.5° or 78½° below +freezing-point being, up to the end of the year, the minimum temperature +registered. This was by no means an uncomfortable temperature, although +superficial frost-bites, especially on the noses and cheekbones, were of +constant occurrence. Solitary walks were, of course, prohibited; and it +was particularly impressed upon every one that, when they were absent +from the ship, they were carefully to watch their companions' faces in +order to detect a frost-bite at once, and so be able to restore +circulation before permanent injury could be sustained. Face-covers were +occasionally worn, but were not in very great favour. They have the +disadvantage of freezing to the face, which they also conceal, and so +prevent a comrade from seeing and reporting a frost-bite. + +In the neighbourhood of our winter quarters there had, up to this time, +been a remarkable absence of all animal life. Occasionally the +quarter-masters would report that during the night they heard the +howling of wolves in the distance, and one night the Eskimo dogs, who +were lying curled up in the snow outside the ship, made a sudden rush +for the gangway, and evinced great eagerness to get on board. This +stampede was attributed to the presence of wolves, but no tracks of +these animals had been seen to justify our arriving at such a +conclusion. With the exception sometimes of a peculiar, whistling, +moaning sound, caused by the rise and fall of the ice with the tide, the +stillness of the nights was undisturbed. + +We had long been aware that the ice of which this part of the polar sea +was composed consisted of huge massive floes, not of a few seasons' +formation, but the creation of ages, real thick-ribbed ice. Except along +the west coasts of Banks and Prince Patrick Islands, no such ice had +ever before been met with in the Arctic Regions. It therefore became +desirable to apply to it a special name by which it might be +provisionally known. After some discussion, Captain Nares decided upon +calling the frozen sea, on the southern border of which we were +wintering, the "Palæocrystic Sea," the name being derived from the two +Greek words [Greek: palaios] ancient, and [Greek: krystallos] ice. This +term was used for the great frozen polar sea during the remaining period +of our detention on its borders.[1] + +Atmospheric phenomena, such as halos and paraselenæ, were by no means +uncommon, and occasionally we were astonished by the heavenly bodies +behaving, as it appeared to us, in a very eccentric manner. On one +occasion the star Aldebaran was reported to be jumping about in a +strange way. Such unusual behaviour on the part of a star brought us all +up in the cold, and there, sure enough, was Aldebaran doing exactly what +was reported, and altogether conducting itself in a very erratic and +unstarlike manner. The illusion was caused by the fall of minute, and +imperceptible, frozen particles; but it was some time before we could +satisfy ourselves that the star was not actually in motion, many of the +men remaining to this day unconvinced. One of our Scotch quarter-masters +informed me, some time afterwards, that it was a "vara curious star;" +and although the laws of refraction were explained to him, he still +persisted in his belief that the movement of the star was due to itself, +and would not believe in any other explanation. + +At the beginning of the winter, shortly after the return of the sledge +parties, the doctor and myself being busily engaged in the construction +of a snow house on shore, observed a most brilliant meteor fall, +apparently about a quarter of a mile from us, its course being from S.E. +to N.W. It was of a bright emerald-green colour, and was falling so +quietly and slowly that we at first thought it was a rocket, or Roman +candle, let off by some one astern of the ship, it being distinctly +visible for many seconds. When it arrived, in our estimation, at about +forty feet from the ground, it suddenly burst, displaying bright red and +green colours. It was seen by others, from different points of +observation; all being unanimous in their opinion that it was one of the +most beautiful sights, of the kind, they had ever witnessed. + + +FOOTNOTE: + + [1] The word may not be formed on strictly accurate principles, but + it is sufficiently expressive of the fact it is intended to + represent, and it is now endeared to us by association and by common + usage while serving in the far north. + + + + +CHAPTER XVII. + +A HAPPY NEW YEAR. + + + The old year dies on southern skies, + And leafless woods that moan and quiver; + The shadows creep o'er ocean deep, + And silent lake and rustling river; + And all is gloom around the tomb + Of wasted moments, lost for ever. + + The new year gleams on silver streams, + Where meadows smile in sunlit glances; + The dark shades flee across the sea, + And the wild wavelet laughs and dances; + And all is bright where new-born light + Brings hope to man and golden chances. + + O happy year! that tells us here + The same sweet, ever-welcome story, + That soon, so soon! one radiant noon + Shall plunge in light yon summits hoary, + That point our way through endless day + To joyous triumphs, home, and glory. + + H. W. PULLEN, + + H.M.S. "Alert," + + _January 1st_, 1876. + +The above lines, composed by the poet laureate of the expedition, +greeted us at the breakfast table on the morning of the 1st of January, +1876. + +The New Year was ushered in with every demonstration of joy, gratitude, +and hope by our little party assembled together, so far removed from the +civilized world. We were joyful because a new year had dawned upon us +in undiminished numbers; grateful for the many mercies that had been +vouchsafed to us, and hopeful concerning our future prospects. We could +not look back with regret upon the past year, for to us it had indeed +been eventful; but officers and men looked forward to the coming year +with feelings of confidence, resolutely determined faithfully to perform +their duties, placing their trust in Him who had hitherto so well +watched over and protected them, and firm in their reliance on His +continued aid and support. + +It is generally the custom in the navy to strike the bell sixteen times +at midnight on New Year's eve--eight bells for the old year and eight +bells for the new! Of course with us this custom was rigidly adhered to; +but not only did we strike sixteen bells at _our_ midnight, but we also +struck the same number at six minutes to eight, which, allowing for the +exact difference in time, would be midnight in England, so that we had +at least the satisfaction of knowing that our bell was being employed in +the same way as many others in the navy at the same time. + +Perhaps it may be interesting to my readers to know exactly how we +received the New Year! I will, therefore, quote my remarks as they +appear, word for word, in my journal. + +"At five minutes to twelve, we all congregated round the ward-room +table, on which was spread a sumptuous cold collation, consisting of a +_real_ English ham, Bologna sausages, brawn, and sardines. Strong +whiskey punch, in the brewing of which all had a share, was ladled out +to each, and from the encomiums which were passed on its flavour and +strength, the old proverb that 'too many cooks spoil the broth' was +completely upset. As the bell struck, a neat little speech was made by +our orator the doctor, the compliments of the season were wished to all, +nor were those at home forgotten, our glasses were emptied, and then in +true Highland fashion, with one foot on the table, the other on our +chair, and with hands joined, we all sang 'Auld lang syne,' the drum and +fife band accompanying us outside, the song being taken up by the men on +the lower deck, who, true to their tastes, had been '_dancing_ out the +old year.' Such was the manner in which the year 1876 was inaugurated in +latitude 82° 27´ N., where no human being had ever welcomed a new year +before." + +A more cheerful, happy, and contented party it would be difficult to +imagine anywhere; utterly oblivious of the solemn darkness and desolate +sterility that prevailed without, they thought only of the "joyous +triumph" that they hoped to achieve, and then of their return to old +England. Everything wore a cheerful aspect. No leader could have more +reason to be satisfied with the health and spirits of those under his +command, than Captain Nares on the 1st of January, 1876. + +On that morning, at the usual monthly medical inspection, he had the +satisfaction of receiving the report that the men were in a better state +of health than they were at the last examination. Appetites, which +during mid-winter had been waning, had gradually returned. So contented +were we, that many were actually pitying our friends in England, because +they were unable to enjoy such delicious musk-ox beef as was put on our +table for dinner on New Year's day! + +Our first crop of mustard and cress was gathered on the 2nd of January. +It was not an abundant one, but there was sufficient to give a mouthful +to each person, and what little we had was certainly very refreshing. It +had grown up devoid of all colour, and had a very _washed-out_ +appearance. The garden was a small shallow box kept close to the +ward-room stove. In consequence of the success attending this--our +first--attempt at agriculture, several gardens were started, and we were +enabled to issue, at different times, small quantities of this excellent +antiscorbutic; though how far the loss of colour detracts from its +medicinal qualities is a difficult problem to solve. Although the colour +was absent, the fresh _taste_ appeared to remain, there being no +perceptible difference between that grown on board the "Alert," and the +same reared in the heat of the sun in more favoured climes. As a rule, +the best crops were those grown on a blanket. + +On the 8th and 9th of January we experienced a heavy gale of wind from +the southward. It was impossible, whilst it lasted, to venture outside +the ship, even to take the thermometric observations, although they +could be registered only a few yards from the gangway: they had +therefore to be discontinued during the time the gale lasted. It blew +for forty-eight hours with relentless fury, when it exhausted itself in +fitful gusts, more or less strong, until it abated altogether. The +housing over the ship suffered sadly from this storm, several tons +weight of snow having collected on it from the tremendous drift, in some +places breaking it through, and in others "bagging" it down so as to +render walking underneath an impossibility. + +All our outdoor establishments were completely buried with snow, and we +were compelled to send parties of men to excavate them, in order to +effect an entrance at all. In fact, our men were for some time engaged +in repairing the ravages of the storm. The accumulation of drift on the +weather side of the ship was enormous, and took the form of a perfectly +solid snow-wreath. This was caused by the eddying wind driving the snow +from the side of the vessel to a distance of about four or five feet, +where it settled, resembling a great frozen wave, whose curling crest +was fully seven feet in height. + +On the opposite, or lee, side of the ship the ice had cracked, leaving +several large fissures, through which the water oozed and flowed over. +The spring tides had also caused the ship to rise in her icy cradle, the +greater part of the banking having, in consequence, slipped through +between the edge of our dock and the ship's side and disappeared. This +also had to be rectified. Our gale of wind had undoubtedly been +productive of much extra work, irrespective of the anxiety and the by no +means pleasant time spent, during its duration: for as yet our +protecting bergs had not inspired us with absolute confidence regarding +the shelter they might afford in such tempestuous weather as we had +recently experienced. So well, however, did they answer our purpose +during this gale, that all cause for anxiety was from that time removed, +and for the future we felt as safe and as secure as if we had been +frozen up in a well-sheltered and land-locked harbour. + +When the wind was at its height, a piece of musk-ox meat, suspended in +the mizzen-rigging, was blown down, and was, of course, at once assailed +by the Eskimo dogs who had been admitted into the ship during the gale. +Fortunately it was frozen so hard that they were unable to get their +teeth through it, and although it had been some time in their clutches +before it was rescued, little loss was sustained. + +At noon on the 17th of January, a faint tinge of crimson, blended with a +slight silvery streak of twilight, could be observed in the southern +horizon, and although it was only of short duration, it became more +decided and lasted for a longer time on each successive day. These +bright harbingers of returning light were anxiously watched, and gladly +were they welcomed as they assumed a more decided appearance. + +Although there was no despondency or depression of spirits on board the +"Alert," the monotony of the long dark nights could not but be felt, and +we all eagerly looked forward to the time when the glorious rays from +our bright, though long-absent, sun should again crown the summits of +the distant hills with their sparkling and joyous light. All on board +were interested for different reasons in the return of the sun: the +sledge travellers, because it would bring light and heat to cheer and +sustain them on their lonesome and arduous journeys, which they knew +would be commenced as soon after its return as possible: the sportsmen +regarded it as the precursor of game; and all hailed with delight the +symbol of returning day and the assurance of the approaching termination +of their long dark night. By the 1st of February, those gifted with +sharp eyesight were just able to decipher a leading article in the +_Times_ on the floe at noon. It was remarked that one of our officers +afflicted with short-sightedness was able, by the dim twilight, to read +not only with greater ease and accuracy than others, but also some days +before them, and therefore by a dimmer light. + +We had hitherto had no exceptionally severe weather; but during the +latter part of January we experienced a foretaste of the intense cold +that we were a month later destined to endure. With a temperature 50° +below zero, it is necessary, when exposed to it, to keep the body in +constant motion, otherwise a frost-bite will imperceptibly seize hold of +one. On first emerging into this temperature a slight difficulty of +breathing would be experienced, and tears would be involuntarily brought +to the eyes, which immediately became small nodules of ice, and as such +had to be extracted. This is hardly to be wondered at when it is +remembered that we had to undergo a transition of temperature from our +living-deck to the open air of over 100°! In spite of this cold, +however, we were not much troubled with frost-bites, except on the face. +Our dearly bought experience, during the autumn sledging, will account +for our comparative immunity from these very troublesome and painful +attacks. + +Apropos of frost-bites it is related, that one of the members of the +expedition, on getting up in the morning, during the cold weather, +found, to his horror, that one of his toes and a part of his foot were +quite black. Thinking he was severely frost-bitten, and wishing at once +to assure himself of the fact by the only practical method that +suggested itself at the time, he seized a pin, and made a furious dig at +the supposed injured part. He very quickly found that, although +discoloured, it was not totally devoid of all sensation, nor was the +circulation of blood in any way impeded. The fact was, that his servant, +on the previous day, had patched up his sock with a piece of fearnought, +and, in order to assimilate the colour, had inked it over--which fully +accounted for his terrible frost-bite! + +It was our invariable custom to keep the hair, especially that growing +on the face, as close as possible. In spite, however, of this +precaution, it was impossible to prevent the breath from freezing on the +short stubbly beard and moustache, which would soon be converted into a +perfect mass of ice--a decidedly uncomfortable appendage. On returning +from our short walks, we frequently found our cap, comforter, and collar +of the coat frozen into one solid and compact mass. + +Occasionally an amusing incident occurred to vary the sameness of our +daily life, as the following story will show. During the darkest part of +the winter one of the magnetic observers had occasion to visit the +observatory. Taking his lantern, and accompanied by Nellie, he reached +the door, which to his surprise was open. Supposing it to have been +blown open by the wind, for it had been blowing very hard the previous +night, he entered the long tunnel leading up to the Unifilar House. +Before he had gone far a strong animal smell assailed his olfactory +organs; this, with the fact of Nellie exhibiting great restlessness, +induced him to examine the ground, when he clearly detected the traces +of some animal, but of what description he was unable to decide. + +He was now placed in rather an unpleasant position, for to advance +head-foremost through a narrow passage into a small house in which a +great Polar bear might have established himself, was to say the least a +rash act; yet he was unwilling to return on board, and probably be for +ever after chaffed by his messmates for being frightened at nothing. +Putting on a bold front, he determined at all hazards to push on, and +ascertain what the animal was that had dared to violate the sacred +precincts of the observatory. As he advanced the peculiar odour became +stronger, and he was sorely tempted to retreat, thinking discretion was +the better part of valour. Arriving at the entrance to the house, +however, he plucked up courage, and with the lantern well in front of +him, and Nellie close at his heels, he dashed in, and there, lying down +and looking almost as frightened as himself, was, not the great white +bear that he expected to meet, but "Bruin," the largest of our Eskimo +dogs, who, during the boisterous weather of the preceding night, had +sought shelter in our observatory, and had no doubt found it a very snug +and comfortable place, infinitely preferable to the bleak and exposed +floe. It was a long time before the place was rid of the unpleasant +smell peculiar to Eskimo dogs. + +As the light increased day by day, the men were employed in re-embarking +the stores and provisions landed, and in demolishing "Markham Hall." It +was necessary to accomplish as much as possible, as Captain Nares well +knew, before the departure of the sledging parties, for so few men would +be left on board that little could be done during their absence, and +there was no saying how soon after their return the ship would be able +to break out of winter quarters. The Eskimo dogs were also now regularly +fed and attended to. Hitherto they had been left to do pretty much as +they liked, and their regular meals during the winter had been few, and +served at uncertain times. Notwithstanding the small amount of food that +was issued to them, they were all in capital condition, in fact a little +too "fleshy" for dragging purposes, as they always received the scraps +and surplus food from the allowance of the ship's company, and this was +more than enough to keep a much larger pack of dogs than we possessed. +They were also regularly exercised in dragging a light sledge, their +day's work increasing as the days lengthened. + +We could not but notice the sallowness of complexion which the returning +light revealed, only too palpably, in the faces of our companions, +caused by the long absence of the sun, and which had hitherto been +unnoticed by the light of lamps and candles. Like our mustard and cress, +we were devoid of all colour, yet apparently in good and sound health. +There is something essentially health-preserving and life-giving in the +rays of the sun, without which everything must wither and eventually +die. This was, in the sequel, but too fully exemplified in our case. For +although we were all in excellent spirits and supposed ourselves to be +in perfect health, yet the seeds of that terrible disease, which +subsequently crippled us so disastrously, must have already germinated +unknown to ourselves. + +But little did we suspect, at that time, the approach of the evil that +eventually overtook us. + +Many of the large floe-bergs near the ship were observed to be literally +rent in twain, owing in all probability to the contraction of the ice by +the intense cold--the outer part of the floeberg being exposed to a +greater cold than the interior. These rents will also account for the +loud sharp reports that were frequently heard during the winter, and +which were for some time wrapped in mystery. + +Towards the end of February a few hares were seen, and two or three were +shot; but they were very timid and shy, and seldom gave our sportsmen +opportunities of exhibiting their prowess. Lemming tracks were +abundant, and occasionally these little animals would be seen running +along the snow. Nellie regarded them as being created for her especial +enjoyment in hunting, and would vainly endeavour to unsnow them after +they had taken refuge in their holes. Woe betide the unfortunate little +lemming observed by Nellie at any distance from its habitation. A dash, +a gobble, and all was over! In vain did we try to break her of these +murderous propensities, not only for the sake of the victims but also +for herself, as the swallowing of little balls of fur cannot be +conducive to health. All was futile! Nellie considered the chase of +these little creatures as an undoubted privilege with which no one +should interfere. + +[Illustration: LEMMINGS.] + +The long twilight enabled us to extend our rambles, and we visited the +snow hut built by Rawson last autumn when attempting to get south, about +five or six miles from the ship, and in which he had deposited a small +quantity of provisions. To our surprise we discovered that, with the +exception of the pemmican which was in a tin, and the tobacco, all had +disappeared! Biscuit, bacon, tea, sugar, and cocoa, all had gone. A hole +through the roof of the house pointed at once to the means of ingress; +but who were the thieves? Foxes or wolves had not been seen, nor had any +traces of them been observed! + +Even supposing these animals to be the depredators, how did they effect +their escape from the house after once they had got in? It was simple +enough to scrape a hole through the roof and jump down; but it was not +so easy to jump straight up a height of six or seven feet through a +small hole! Suspicion fell for some time on our long-missing dog Sallie; +but it was never satisfactorily ascertained whether dog, wolf, or fox +was the culprit. Of one thing there could be no doubt. The robbery had +been committed by a very cunning and intelligent beast. Spots of blood +on the pemmican tin showed unmistakeably that this also had been +attempted, but had proved too hard and strong. The tracks, which were +always to and from the floe, were too indistinct to enable us to make +out the nature of the animal, but the general idea was that it was a +fox. + +Of course, with returning daylight, the serious work of sledging and the +preparations for the spring campaign occupied our attention to the +exclusion of almost everything else. On Saturday, the 26th of February, +our school assembled for the last time, the classes being dismissed in +the evening only to reassemble again if the ship spent another winter +away from England. It would not be fair to dismiss our pupils without a +word of commendation. Their attendance was most regular, and their +efforts to learn beyond all praise. Nothing could exceed their +diligence, nor excel their desire to please and reflect credit upon +their masters, and I do hope that many will have benefited by the +instruction they received in their Arctic school. + +On Thursday, the 24th of February, was performed our last dramatic +entertainment. The following was the programme. + + + ROYAL ARCTIC THEATRE. + + H.M.S. "Alert." + + Thursday, 24th February, 1876. + + [finger symbol] Last performance of the season. + + GRAND REPRESENTATION + of the + Original pathetico-comico-burlesque operetta entitled the + LITTLE VULGAR BOY, + or + WEEPING BILL. + + Founded on the celebrated Ingoldsby Legend, "Misadventures at + Margate." + + Written expressly for the occasion by the + Rev. H. W. PULLEN. + + Scenery by Professor Moss, M.D. Music by Lieut. Aldrich. + Manager: Lieut. May. + + Preceded by + + Reading "The Blessed Babies" Mr. Hunt. + Song "Fie, for shame" Mr. Symons. + + CHARACTERS: + + Mr. Brown, an old buffer, slightly green Commander Markham. + + Mrs. Jones, a landlady, slightly cross, but with a keen eye to + business G. Le C. Egerton, Esq. + + Jack Robinson; a seafaring man, slightly figurative in his language, + and violently in love with Mrs. Jones Lieut. Giffard. + + Weeping Bill, a little vulgar boy, slightly out at elbows, and fairly + sharp for his age Lieut. Rawson. + + K 55, the irrepressible Bobby, slightly self-important, and the natural + enemy of Weeping Bill Rev. H. W. Pullen. + + Scenes 1 and 3 The Jetty at Margate. + Scenes 2 and 4 Mrs. Jones's lodgings. + + To commence at 7.30 precisely. + + God save the Queen. + + Messrs. Giffard and Symons, Printing office, Trap Lane. + + +This piece, as set forth in the bill, was written expressly for the +occasion by Pullen, and not only did he compose it, but he also assisted +in its performance. It was a very successful hit, and was most +deservedly applauded, loud cries of "Author" following the fall of the +curtain. + +The ensuing Thursday witnessed the last of our "Thursday Pops," and this +terminated our season's festivities. At it Captain Nares delivered a +very able and instructive lecture on his sledging experiences, bringing +a few "facts" home to the men, as to the sort of work they were about to +perform, and the kind of life they would have to lead. His announcement +that we should, in all probability, spend another winter in the Arctic +Regions was hailed with delight. He also announced his intention of +returning to England before the third winter, provided no unforeseen +event happened to detain the expedition. + +The following was the programme for the evening's entertainment. + + + THURSDAY POPS. + + H.M.S. "Alert." + + [finger symbol] _Positively the last entertainment this winter._ + + March 2, 1876. + + The season's festivities will terminate with the following + programme:-- + + 1. The Palæocrystic Sea and Sledging Experiences Capt. Nares. + 2. Ballad . . "The _Shannon_ and the _Chesapeake_" Mr. Cane. + 3. Song . . "Susan's Sunday out" Mr. Stuckberry. + 4. Reading . "Two Bab Ballads" Rev. H. W. Pullen. + 5. Ballad. . "Over the Sea" Mr. Maskell. + 6. Song . . "Rummy old Codger" Mr. Pearce. + 7. Ballad. . "Seeing Nelly home" Mr. Self. + 8. Recitation . "On the Arctic Expedition, by J. D." Sergt. Wood. + 9. Song . "Billy Woods the grocer" Mr. Gore. + 10. Ballad . "Beating of my own heart" Mr. Ayles. + 11. Part Song . "O who will o'er the downs so free" + Messrs. Aldrich, Pullen, May, and Wootton. + + To conclude with the grand Palæocrystic Sledging Chorus, by the entire + strength of the house. + + To commence at 7.30 precisely. + + God save the Queen. + + Messrs. Giffard and Symons, Printing office, Trap Lane. + + +This chapter would be incomplete without the words of the "Grand +Palæocrystic Sledging Chorus." + +This was also composed by our talented poet laureate, and was most +enthusiastically received by the whole ship's company, who vociferously +joined in singing it on all appropriate, and other, occasions. + +It brought in the names of all the sledges that were employed in the +early part of the spring campaign, and became henceforth, as it were, +the "Arctic National Anthem." + + + CHORUS. + + Not very long ago, + On the six-foot floe + Of the palæocrystic sea, + Two ships did ride, + Mid the crashing of the tide-- + The _Alert_ and the _Discovery_. + + The sun never shone + The gallant crews upon + For a hundred and forty-two days; + But no darkness and no hummocks + Their merry hearts could flummox: + So they set to work and acted plays. + + There was music and song + To help the hours along, + Brought forth from the good ship's store; + And each man did his best + To amuse and cheer the rest: + And "nobody can't do more." + + + AIR--"The _Shannon_ and the _Chesapeake_." + + Here's a health to _Marco Polo_[1]-- + May he reach his northern goal, oh! + And advance the flag of England into realms unknown! + May the _Challenger_[2] be there, + All comers bold to dare, + And _Victoria_[3] be victorious in the frozen zone! + + May our _Poppie_[4] be in sight, + With her colours streaming bright, + And the _Bulldog_[5] tug on merrily from strand to strand! + And the _Alexandra_[6] brave + See our banner proudly wave + O'er the highest cliffs and summits of the northernmost land! + + Here's a health to _Hercules_,[7] + Whom the autumn blast did freeze, + And all our gallant fellows whom the frost laid low! + Just wait a little longer, + Till they get a trifle stronger, + And they'll never pull the worse because they've lost a toe. + + Here's a health, with three times three, + To the brave _Discovery_,[8] + And our merry, merry guests, so truly welcome here! + And a brimming bumper yet + To our valiant little pet-- + The lively _Clements Markham_,[9] with its bold charioteer! + + Here's a health to all true blue, + To the officers and crew + Who man this Expedition neat and handy, oh! + And may they ever prove, + Both in sledging and in love, + That the tars of old Britannia are the dandy, oh! + + +FOOTNOTES: + + [1] Commander Markham's sledge. + + [2] Lieut. Aldrich's sledge. + + [3] Lieut. Parr's sledge. + + [4] Lieut. Giffard's sledge. + + [5] Dr. Moss's sledge. + + [6] Mr. White's sledge. + + [7] Lieut. May's sledge. + + [8] Lieut. Rawson's sledge. + + [9] Mr. Egerton's sledge. + + + + +CHAPTER XVIII. + +RETURN OF THE SUN. + + + "Most glorious orb! that were a worship, ere + The mystery of thy making was revealed! + Thou earliest minister of the Almighty + Which gladdened on their mountain tops the hearts + Of the Chaldean shepherds, till they poured + Themselves in orisons." + + BYRON. + +The 29th of February was the day on which, according to astronomical +rules, the reappearance of the sun was to rejoice the hearts and gladden +the eyes of our little party. On the previous day, a general holiday had +been proclaimed to give the men a chance, by ascending some of the hills +in our neighbourhood, of welcoming the sun a day earlier. In this, +however, they were doomed to disappointment. The glorious orb would not +come out to be welcomed; for the simple reason that it was still just +below the horizon. We were, however, rewarded by seeing its rays +reflected in the northern sky, which was beautifully illumined with the +most brilliant prismatic colours. Cairn Hill, and the hills to the +southward by Cape Rawson, were the chief points of observation. The +former was abreast of the ship, and about a mile distant; its height +being about four hundred and fifty feet above the level of the sea. On +the summit was built a large cairn, hence its name. On the cairn was +reared a long staff, to which was hoisted an iron oil cask, so as to +form a conspicuous landmark to guide wanderers back to their ship. + +[Illustration: CAIRN HILL.] + +By ten o'clock on the forenoon of the 29th, the ship was nearly +deserted, and officers and men could be seen dotting the floe and +snow-covered ranges as they wended their way to the most prominent +adjacent hills, on which little knots of men could already be seen +assembled, in order to catch a glimpse of the rising sun. We feared, +however, on starting, that we should be again disappointed, as there was +no clear sea horizon to the southward, and the sun would hardly have +sufficient altitude to show itself above the distant land. These fears +were not without foundation, as the result proved. + +Shortly before noon our excitement was intense as a bright ray shot up +vertically from the sun's position and illumined the summits of the +surrounding ranges, whilst a radiant light was shed around. + + "As rays around the source of light + Stream upward ere he glow in sight, + And watching by his future flight + Set the clear heavens on fire." + +Our hopes grew high as noon drew near, but again were we disappointed, +and again were we compelled to return to the ship, defeated in our +object of welcoming back the "Prodigal Sun!" + +The next day was cloudy, but on the following one, by going aloft about +ten o'clock, we had the satisfaction of announcing that about one-third +of the sun's disc was visible, as it crept slowly along the southern +horizon. Instantly the rigging swarmed with men, scrambling up with +elephantine agility to greet the fiery orb after its long absence, and +looking more like animated bales of furs than human beings. It appeared +of a deep reddish orange colour, but was so distorted by refraction that +its shape was more that of a truncated cone than a spherical body. + +By noon Cairn Hill was covered with expectant visitors, and well were +they repaid for the trouble of the ascent. Although little of the sun +could be seen above the distant land, we knew that it was there, and +what we did see was bright, and _appeared_ with a slight stretch of the +imagination to be warm! + +Romeo's words-- + + "Night's candles are burnt out, + And jocund day stands + Tip-toe on the misty mountain tops," + +were on our lips as we beheld the beautiful colours in the northern sky. +The roseate tints blending with the violet seemed to belong more to +southern climes than to the sterile inclement regions that we were +inhabiting. The summits of the hills, the "misty mountain tops," were +bathed in its glorious rays, whilst its luminous beams danced and +glimmered along the distant ice-floes. It was a bright and glorious +sight, and we remained long admiring it, and revelling in its rays--in +fact, until warned by a peculiar sensation in our feet that the +temperature was actually 100° below freezing-point; and however ecstatic +we might feel at the reappearance of the sun, Jack Frost still reigned +supreme, exacting implicit obedience to his will, and making those who +disregarded his injunctions suffer for their heedlessness. + +Undoubtedly the Arctic Regions, and the farther north the better, would +be a good place for Parsees; for none of the followers of Zoroaster +could have exhibited more anxiety for the return, and more delight at +the appearance, of their deity, than we did before and after the bright +rays of the sun first fell upon us! Their god Fire would also receive, +during the long cold Polar winter, the utmost homage and attention. Sun +and Fire worshippers would require in these regions little to stimulate +them to devotion. + +Strange to say, our extreme cold came with the returning sun. During +the latter end of February the temperature had been gradually getting +lower and lower, until on the 4th of March it had fallen to -74°, or +106° below freezing-point. This was the lowest recorded by the +expedition, obtained from the mean of several thermometers, and, so far +as we could ascertain, the lowest really authentic corrected observation +that has ever been registered in any part of the globe. From noon of the +3rd until noon of the 4th the mean temperature was -69°.68, whilst the +lowest mean temperature registered for any twenty-four consecutive hours +was from four A.M. of the former until four A.M. of the last-mentioned +day -70°.31. From six P.M. on March 2nd until six A.M. of March 4th, +namely thirty-six consecutive hours, the mean temperature was as low as +-69°.93´, and for the week ending March 4th the mean temperature was +-60°! + +It was amusing to observe the eager excitement with which every one +received the latest intelligence regarding the state of the thermometer, +and when it was announced that the "lowest on record" had been +registered, there was a general shout of exultation. During the intense +cold several experiments were tried by exposing various substances to +its influence, and with the following results. Glycerine, on which a +temperature of -50° had little effect, became, at -70°, perfectly solid +and quite transparent. Rectified spirits of wine became of the +consistency of hair-oil. Concentrated rum, 40° over-proof, froze hard +when exposed in a shallow vessel like a saucer, but when in a large +quantity it resembled honey or molasses in consistency. Whiskey froze +hard, and we actually broke off bits and ate it! In consequence of this +latter proceeding we have since our return to England been, not without +reason, accused of "hard drinking," an accusation we are, of course, +unable to refute! Chloroform was the only substance on which the low +temperature had no apparent effect. Our temperatures were obtained by +taking the mean of ten thermometers that were exposed, to which result +was applied the corrections from Kew for each instrument. These had been +ascertained when the instruments were tested at the Kew observatory +before leaving England. The corrections and errors of the instruments +could, of course, only be approximately ascertained after the +freezing-point of mercury had been passed, as there was nothing beyond +that with which the spirit could be compared. The slightest impurity of +the spirit used, or the presence of even the most minute portions of +extraneous matter in it, would no doubt seriously affect the accuracy of +the observation. As an instance of the range exhibited by these +instruments, it may be interesting to know that one thermometer +indicated as low a temperature as -82°, while, _at the same time_, +another showed only -60°; but by applying the errors deduced at Kew, the +result was as nearly as possible the same. I think that the minimum +temperature recorded by us was, if not absolutely correct, as nearly so +as it was possible to arrive at. + +Although we never again experienced such a severe burst of cold as we +did during the first few days of March, the temperature remained +extraordinarily low, and mercury was in a frozen state during nearly the +whole of that month. The presence of the sun appeared to have little +effect on the temperature, but thermometers exposed to its rays would +frequently rise as high as zero, and sometimes above that point. + +The difference of temperature at the summit and at the base of Cairn +Hill, whose height, as has been stated, was four hundred and fifty feet, +was 5½°, the thermometer rising as the hill was ascended, and falling +again as it was brought down. + +Traces of ptarmigan had frequently been observed in the snow, but it was +not until the 22nd of March that the first bird was seen, although our +sportsmen had been most diligent in their search for them. On that day +two of our pedestrians succeeding in flushing one solitary ptarmigan, +but, as is usual in such cases, they were without guns. Very few of +these birds were afterwards seen in the neighbourhood of the "Alert." +Their appearance caused some little excitement, for we looked upon them +as the harbingers of spring, and as a token that our long winter had +well-nigh terminated. + +On the 25th of March, there was a partial eclipse of the sun, which was +clearly visible to all those who took the trouble to go on deck and, +with a piece of smoked or coloured glass, examine it in spite of a very +low temperature. The first contact was observed at six minutes past four +in the afternoon, and the egress at six o'clock. About .65, or little +more than half the sun, was obscured. + +During the middle of March the quarter-deck housing was removed, and we +were again able to enjoy daylight on the upper deck. Although the low +temperature did not yet admit of our removing the snow from the +hatchways and skylights, yet we were able to clear the tops of our cabin +illuminators, and thus obtain below a slight amount of daylight, +sufficient at any rate to obviate the necessity of incessant +candle-light during the day. It was not until the middle of May, whilst +the sledge travellers were absent, that the skylights were cleared and +the snow removed from the upper deck. + +Fire is the most disastrous accident that can possibly happen to a ship +wintering in the Arctic Regions, and it should be most carefully guarded +against. It may result in having your house, together with all your +provisions, consumed, and yourselves, perhaps not burnt, but destined +for even a more terrible fate, namely, turned out on the ice without +food and without shelter, exposed to a pitiless temperature, with no +covering or protection of any description. Such a situation would prove +fatal in a few hours. Men so placed would realize the dreadful fate so +vividly and graphically described by Jules Verne as having befallen +Captain Hatteras and his companions when their ship was destroyed and +they were deserted by their shipmates. + +In the "Alert" we had one alarm from fire, which, although it might have +ended disastrously, did very little injury. It originated in our +"drying-room," where, through the carelessness of the man in charge, +some of the clothes had been allowed to hang in dangerous proximity to +the stove. These igniting quickly communicated the fire to the +surrounding objects, and for a little time it was doubtful whether the +conflagration might not assume a very serious aspect. In spite of the +occurrence happening at night-time, the men exerted themselves with such +good will that the fire was speedily extinguished, with no further +damage done than the destruction of a few clothes, although it was some +time before we could rid ourselves of the smoke, which unpleasantly +permeated the whole ship. The temperature at the time was 58° below +zero, which would have rendered the work of supplying water from the +fire-hole not only a difficult, but also a dangerous task, and one which +must have resulted in many severe frost-bites. + +During the latter part of the month of March the officers were employed +in dismounting the various instruments in the observatories, carefully +packing and putting them away, as most of them would not be required +again until the following winter. This was a very necessary proceeding, +as before the return of the officers from sledge travelling the +observatories with all their "fixings," such as pedestals, etc., being +composed of snow, would have melted away during the summer thaw. By the +end of the month the observatories were entirely stripped and left bare, +when they gradually fell into decay. "Woolwich" was also "unsnowed," and +the powder brought off to the ship and stowed in the magazine. + +In addition to all this work, the crews of the different sledges +destined to take part in the spring campaign were, in this month of +March, specially exercised, under their respective officers, for several +hours during the day. Their regular daily exercise had also been +carefully attended to throughout the winter. + +Occasionally they were employed laying out depôts of provisions to the +southward, to be used by the sledge parties proceeding northwards from +the "Discovery," or sometimes dragging their laden sledges over the pack +in the immediate vicinity of the ship, with the object of gaining +experience in crossing ridges of hummocks, and of realizing the kind of +travelling with which they were so soon to become more intimately +acquainted. These little journeys gave us an insight into the endless +difficulties that we were hereafter called upon to contend with, and the +obstacles we were destined to surmount. We foresaw that we should have +"stiffish" work before us, but we did not doubt that we should render a +good and satisfactory account of the duty entrusted to us. + +After several cries of "wolf," one actually did make its appearance on +the 1st of April. Early in the morning of that day an animal had been +observed, by the quarter-master of the watch, stealthily prowling round +the ship. Supposing it to be a bear, the alarm was given and one or two +of our hunters went in chase. More would undoubtedly have followed their +example, but recollecting the day, they preferred remaining in their +warm beds for an hour longer to the risk of being informed, when they +came on deck fully equipped for the chase, that it was the 1st of April! + +The traces left in the snow showed unmistakeably the character of our +visitor. Instead of being a bear, it proved to be a wolf, but so alarmed +was it at the disturbance made on board that it scampered over the hills +and eluded our pursuit. That same afternoon, however, accompanied by my +usual companion Nellie, I took a long walk to the southward, following +the trail of the wolf for some distance. On my return, and when about +two miles and a half from the ship, I happened to look round, and there, +about a hundred yards off, and following in my track, was a tall, gaunt, +raw-boned and famished-looking wolf. He was of a yellowish colour, and +in size larger than our biggest Eskimo dog. Of course, as is generally +the way in cases of this sort, I was totally unprovided with arms of +any description, and was therefore unable to add his skin to our natural +history collection. I cannot say whether Nellie or her master offered +the greatest attraction to this animal; but whichever it might be, he +followed us, sometimes at not more than ten yards distance, stopping if +we stopped, and advancing when we advanced, until we were within about +half a mile from the ship, when some of my messmates coming out to meet +me, he bolted over the hills and made his escape. My great anxiety at +the time was for my poor old Nellie, who showed a great inclination to +become better acquainted with the wolf, and I had the utmost difficulty +in restraining her. Whenever she strayed a little from my heel, the +brute would make a bolt at her, and I have little doubt that she would +have been killed if he had once succeeded in his endeavours. On the same +evening we discovered the tracks of four musk-oxen, but although we +followed them up for many miles we did not succeed in seeing them. The +fact of the latter being in our neighbourhood fully accounted for the +presence of the wolf, who was no doubt following their tracks. + + + + +CHAPTER XIX. + +DETAILS OF SLEDGE TRAVELLING. + + + "Give me some ink and paper in my tent, + I'll draw the form and model of our battle: + Limit each leader to his several charge, + And put in just proportions our small force." + + _Richard III._ + +[Illustration: SLEDGE UNDER SAIL.] + +Hitherto I have purposely abstained from alluding to our spring +operations, as I thought that it would be better to devote a separate +chapter exclusively to the account of the details of sledge equipment. +But it must not be supposed, because I have omitted to say anything +about the sledging during the winter, that it was neglected, and that +our time was entirely occupied with our amusements and observatory +duties. Such was not the case. The preparations for the spring campaign +and the organization of our sledge parties in all its details were very +carefully thought over and matured during the long dark hours of the +winter. All works on this subject had been diligently read, in order +that we might benefit by the experience of our predecessors. Nothing was +neglected that could in any way conduce to the success of the +enterprise, and everything that could possibly add to the health and +comfort of those to be employed on work of such an arduous nature was +carefully considered. The sledges, tents, and other equipments necessary +for travelling had been constructed under the personal superintendence +of Sir Leopold McClintock, who is the highest living authority on Arctic +sledge travelling. A few alterations, which we trusted would also be +improvements, were suggested by the experience gained during the autumn, +and these were all carried out before the return of the sun. The results +justified our anticipations. Out of the four different kinds of sledges +supplied to the expedition those which found most favour with us, and +with which the greatest part of the work was done, were the eight-men +sledges.[1] These dragged easier, and were stronger than either the +smaller or larger description of sledges. So long as the travelling +remains good, that is smooth and level ice with hard snow on its +surface, these sledges may be loaded to 240 lbs. for each man to drag, +and a good day's work to be accomplished. This weight, of course, would +only be dragged on first leaving the ship, or a depôt, and decreases at +the rate of about 3 lbs. per man per diem, the amount of provisions +consumed by each individual. What are called the "constant" weights, +which include the sledge, tent, robes, cooking apparatus, pickaxe, +shovel, etc., remain unaltered during the journey. The question of +weight is one requiring the closest attention. + +Every trifling article, even to a small packet of a _dozen pins_ placed +in the medicine chest, has to be weighed and recorded in the general +equipment. The following table shows the weight of the various articles +(being constant weights) required for the equipment of an Arctic sledge +for forty-five days:-- + +EQUIPMENT OF AN EIGHT-MEN SLEDGE, PROVISIONED FOR AN ABSENCE OF +FORTY-FIVE DAYS. + + lb. oz. + Sledge (complete) 130 0 + Tent (complete) 44 0 + Tent poles, five in number 25 0 + Coverlet 31 8 + Extra coverlet (used only in cold weather) 20 0 + Lower robe 23 0 + Waterproof floor-cloth 15 0 + Sail 9 4 + Eight sleeping bags 64 0 + Eight knapsacks (packed) 96 0 + Two pickaxes 14 8 + Shovel 6 8 + Store bag 25 0 + Cooking gear 29 0 + Gun and ammunition 25 0 + Medical stores 12 0 + Instruments 15 0 + ------- + Constant weights 584 12 + Forty-five days' provisions for eight men + (including packages) 1080 0 + -------- + Total 1664 12 + +which, dragged by seven men, is equivalent to about 238 lbs. per man to +drag. + +This should never be exceeded, nor should it even be kept up for any +length of time. + +It will thus be seen that it is impossible for a sledge party to be +absent from the ship for more than seven weeks, at the outside, on its +own resources. In order, therefore, to enable it to remain away for a +longer period, depôts of provisions are established during the autumn on +the line of route, and auxiliary sledges are despatched in the spring +from which the extended parties may be replenished with provisions after +they have been away from the ship some two or three weeks. These +auxiliary sledges, on their return, are again completed with provisions +and sent out to meet the extended parties on their way back. By these +means, a sledging party may remain away for as long as twelve or +thirteen weeks. + +Depôts can only be laid out when there is a continuous coast line, and +under circumstances when a _cache_ containing provisions can easily be +discovered. When the frozen ocean has to be traversed, depôts cannot be +depended upon; for a movement of the ice, or the misfortune of wandering +off the outward bound track during thick weather, would deprive the +travellers of any chance of finding their supplies. The result in such a +case would probably be fatal. The only way of ensuring an extended +absence to a party sledging over the pack, is by sending with it an +additional sledge. This, of course, entails the necessity of traversing +the same road three times over. For the men must never under any +circumstances (other than unavoidable necessity, caused by the sickness +of some of the crew) be allowed to drag more than the outside weight of +240 lbs. at any one time. + +It would, I think, and I am now speaking from experience, be preferable, +when such a journey is necessary, to send a sledge away for only six +weeks rather than to provision a party for three months, and compel the +men to undergo the monotonous and wearisome work of going over the same +ground so often; and, I believe, quite as much work would be +accomplished. + +The tents were all made of the lightest duck,[2] which was sufficient +to protect us from the falling or drifting snow, and the keen cutting +wind. The space inside was, of necessity, very limited; the width in +which each man had to sleep being only fourteen inches. Whilst his head +was touching one side of the tent, his feet were in contact with the +other. The slightest movement of the sleeper during the night would +disturb his neighbours on either side. + +The entrance to the tent had a porch attached to it, which was, of +course, always carefully closed, and served to exclude the fine +snow-drift that would otherwise have penetrated into the interior. The +opposite side of the tent was fitted in a similar manner for the +protection of the cook whilst engaged in preparing the meals. The duties +of the cook during intensely cold weather entail hardships which it is +scarcely possible to overrate. The poor cook is never in his sleeping +bag until two or three hours after the rest of the party have been +comfortably settled for the night, and he has always to rise in the +morning a couple of hours before his comrades are disturbed, and this +after a hard and fatiguing day's work. His cooking apparatus consists of +a spirit lamp, a stearine lamp, a kettle, and a stew-pan. His fuel is +either spirits of wine, or cocoa-nut stearine; and as the allowance of +either is strictly limited, he has to be as economical as he possibly +can. Should his fuel be consumed before the meal is cooked, he will get +no more, and the pemmican will have to be eaten in a semi-frozen state. +The odour and smoke emitted by the stearine can only be appreciated by +those who have served their apprenticeship as cooks to an Arctic sledge +party! Many experiments were tried during the winter to improve our +cooking apparatus, but few were attended with success. Mr. White devoted +a good deal of thought and time to this important matter. By introducing +a cone into the kettle and stew-pan he succeeded in gaining a decided +advantage in rapidity of cooking, but then his plan also had its +disadvantages, a difficulty of cleaning and an encroachment on valuable +space being the chief objections to it. By giving the bottom of the pans +and kettles a little more concavity, we gained a slight advantage in +point of time, and time in cooking also means an economy of fuel. The +tent robes, coverlets, and sleeping bags were all made of duffel. The +knapsacks were made of duck, and contained the only spare clothing that +each man was allowed to take. The contents consisted of two pairs of +blanket wrappers, one pair of wadmill hose, one pair of moccasins, a +skull-cap for sleeping in, a woollen cap presented to each person in the +expedition by H.I.M. the Empress Eugénie, two pairs of mitts, a flannel +shirt, a pair of drawers, a comforter, a pair of snow-spectacles, a +towel, and a piece of soap. The latter was rather a superfluous article +until the thaw set in. + +The store bag contained the pemmican chopper and board, a snow-knife and +saw, some spare lashings of hide for the sledge, matches, slow match, +twine, and various other small and useful articles. + +The scale of provisions to be used whilst sledging was almost identical +with that of preceding expeditions, the only difference being that we +reduced the allowance of spirits by half and doubled the amount of tea +and sugar. The following was the daily ration for each man:-- + + lb. oz. + Pemmican 1 0 + Bacon 0 4 + Biscuit 0 14 + Preserved potatoes 0 2 + Chocolate 0 1 + Sugar for ditto 0 0.5 + Tea for two meals 0 0.5 + Sugar for ditto 0 1.5 + Salt 0 0.25 + Pepper 0 0.05 + Onion powder or curry paste 0 0.125 + Rum 0 2 + Spirits of wine 0 2 + Stearine 0 3 + Tobacco (weekly) 0 3.5 + +This we found a very ample allowance, and one that could not, in my +opinion, be improved upon. The different articles were excellent of +their kind, and of very superior quality. + +Since our return to England, fault has been found with our leader +because lime-juice was not included in the scale of dietary for the +sledges, during April, as a daily ration. Our scale of diet was +necessarily based on that of preceding expeditions, and we had no reason +to expect that we should suffer from that dread disease, scurvy, any +more than did our predecessors. Lime-juice had never before been taken +as a daily ration by an extended sledge party, and Sir Leopold +McClintock, the highest living authority, has since publicly declared +that, in following the precedents established by former experience as +regards the lime-juice, Sir George Nares acted exactly as he would have +done under the same circumstances. Moreover, the lime-juice was +supplied in a form that made it impossible to use during an Arctic +March, April, or May, away from the ship. It was in bottles or very +large heavy jars, and, of course, the moment such vessels were placed +near a fire to thaw their contents, in such a temperature, they would +have been cracked to pieces. This is a conclusive answer to those who, +without experience, and ignorant of the conditions under which we +travelled, have expressed opinions on this subject. After May, when it +was possible to use it, lime-juice was always taken by our sledge +parties as a daily ration. When we came home, the use was suggested of +lime-juice lozenges, and the Medical Director General has proposed that +lime-juice should be mixed with pemmican. It is certainly very much to +be regretted that some such arrangements were not made and carried out +before the expedition left England. It will be seen (if lime-juice would +really have prevented the attack of scurvy) how terribly we had to +suffer from the consequences of the omission. + +Lieutenant Parr and myself each took two bottles of lime-juice, with the +intention of using it when the warm weather of June arrived. It was not +possible to use it to any advantage, hard frozen in a bottle, during +March, April, or May. + +Dr. Colan drew up very careful medical instructions for the commanders +of sledges, and each received some elementary surgical instruction. The +doctor also paid most anxious attention to the contents of the medical +chest, the weight of which was not allowed to exceed 12 lbs.[3] + +The clothing worn by the men engaged in the sledging operations was +somewhat different from that in use during the winter. Our under +clothing was made of thick flannel. Over this we wore one or two flannel +or check shirts, long sleeved woollen waist-coats, thick knitted +guernseys, and duffel trousers, the latter reaching about a foot below +the knee. All wore broad flannel belts, commonly called cholera belts, +round their loins. On our heads we had woollen helmet caps, called by +the men "Eugenies," and over this was worn a thick sealskin cap with ear +and neck flaps attached. + +Our feet were encased in blanket wrappers, one or two pairs according to +the temperature, a pair of thick woollen hose reaching above the knees +and worn over the trousers, and moccasins. The latter, as supplied to +us, only came up round the ankle, so we fitted them with leggings. Those +who were provided with chamois leather made their leggings of that +material, but the majority cut the sleeves off their check shirts which, +when sewn on to the moccasin, answered admirably, their chief use being +to keep the snow from penetrating into the trousers. Some of the +moccasins were also soled with leather, obtained by cutting off the +upper part of the fishermen's boots, a pair of which had been supplied +to each person. As a rule these soles were quickly worn out, and the men +were soon reduced to the bare moccasin, which, however, lasted +wonderfully. + +Large gauntlet mitts were made during the winter, of fearnought covered +with duck, and worn with a strap round the neck. These were only +supplied to the sledgers, and were found very useful. At night-time they +were used on the feet in the sleeping bags, and certainly assisted very +materially in keeping them warm. Finally each person was provided with a +suit of duck overalls, to act as "snow repellers," which were always +worn whilst on the march. As an extra precaution against snow-blindness, +the men were ordered to paint some device on the backs of these snow +jumpers in order to afford a certain amount of relief to the eyes of +their comrades. The designs of these devices or crests were left +entirely to the artistic imaginations of the men, and they caused a good +deal of merriment. They were certainly more quaint than elegant. Donkeys +and Polar bears in various wonderful positions appeared to be in the +greatest favour. Each crest was accompanied by a motto, invariably a +Latin one. Whether these devices relieved us from severe attacks of +snow-blindness or not it would be difficult to decide. They served at +any rate to amuse us, and often formed the topic of conversation when +other subjects were getting scarce. Snow-spectacles were invariably used +by the travellers, and were only taken off after the party had halted +for the night and had sought the shelter of their tent. In consequence +of the adoption of these snow-goggles when we first set out on our +travels, we were comparatively exempt from that painful disease, +snow-blindness, from which other expeditions have more or less suffered, +and which renders the patient so attacked utterly helpless. We +occasionally had a few cases, but with one or two exceptions they were +in a very mild form. + +Such were the details of the general equipment of the sledging parties +that were despatched from the "Alert" in the spring of 1876. Officers +and men shared alike in everything; they had the same provisions, their +costume was identical, they shared the same couch and tent, and each +showed the same zealous desire to perform his duty, and the same eager +anxiety to bring to a successful issue the service on which they were +employed. + +Although the whole of the available force on board the "Alert" was +engaged in the sledging operations of the spring, we were only able to +despatch _two_ extended parties.[4] The rest of the men and sledges were +required to act as auxiliaries to the advanced parties, and were +continually employed during the summer until the return of all the +travellers brought our sledging operations to a conclusion. + +The programme to be carried out, and which was determined upon after +very mature and careful deliberation, was for one party, the command of +which was given to Aldrich the first lieutenant, to continue the +discoveries of the autumn by exploring the coast line to the westward; +whilst a larger party, which was entrusted to my conduct, was to push +across the rugged polar pack, and endeavour to reach as high a northern +latitude as possible. The exploration of the north side of Greenland, to +the eastward, and the examination of the fiords in Robeson Channel, were +left to the sledge parties from the "Discovery." + +The difficulties to be encountered and the serious obstacles to be +overcome in the journey due north over the frozen sea were well +understood. We had made ourselves acquainted with the nature of the +travelling to be anticipated by various short excursions on the ice in +the vicinity of the ship, and were, therefore, fully aware of the +serious character of the work that was before us. None were so rash as +to indulge in any extravagant ideas of successfully reaching a very high +position. The parallel of 84°, or perhaps 85° by the more sanguine, was +regarded as the highest that could possibly be attained. + +It was a well-known fact, before the ship went into winter quarters, +that the polar pack, composed of extraordinarily heavy ice, was in +motion at that season. This motion, or perhaps a general disruption, +would occur, it was calculated, in about July or August, possibly in +June. It was, therefore, not only a measure of prudence, but one of +absolute necessity, that the party destined to travel over this frozen +ocean should be provided with the means of safety to themselves, if a +disruption should take place at an earlier period than was anticipated. +It was therefore decided that two boats,[5] capable of conveying the +whole party from one floe to another, should form part of the equipment +of the northern division. This additional weight, of course, seriously +augmented the labour of the men. + +The only previous attempt to advance over a frozen sea, away from the +land, was made by Sir Edward Parry, in his memorable journey towards the +North Pole in 1827.[6] + +For reasons already stated, the northern party was unable to lay out +depôts on the ice, nor could our sledges be met by supporting sledges +until after their return to the land. It therefore became necessary that +they should carry with them sufficient provisions to last for the whole +time of anticipated absence. This, with the boats, obliged the two +sledge crews composing the division to take with them a _third_ sledge, +so that under the most favourable conditions of travelling, they would +be compelled, after advancing two sledges, to return over the same road +and drag on the third. This we fondly hoped on starting we should be +able to accomplish; little did we think that the fearfully rugged nature +of the road would necessitate the same distance being traversed five or +even seven times. + +For the same reason that the men were ordered to emblazon arms and +crests on the backs of their clothes, we had the boats which were to +accompany the sledges painted with gay and brilliant devices. The rose, +shamrock, and thistle were painted on the hulls, and the royal arms +decorated their sterns. Moss, on this as on other occasions, was the +artist; his great difficulty in accomplishing the work being that in +spite of the quantity of turpentine with which the paint was mixed, it +persisted in freezing in the brush, rendering that article more like a +stick than an artist's pencil. + +The sledges were, of course, all named by their commanders. + + +FOOTNOTES: + + [1] The eight-men sledge has six uprights eighteen inches apart. It + is eleven feet long, three feet two inches wide, eleven inches high, + and weighs 130 lbs. complete. In former expeditions sails were + frequently used on the sledges to great advantage, when travelling + over smooth ice. But we were seldom so fortunate as to meet with ice + which was suitable for sailing, in any of our sledge journeys. May + and Egerton got their sledges under sail on an extensive floe in + Robeson Channel, when they crossed over to the Greenland side; but as + a rule the ice we met with was far too rough to make the use of sails + practicable. In rigging a sail on the sledge two tent poles are + lashed together as a yard, with a spare pole as a foot yard. The + other two tent poles are used as shears, and at their ends a + mast-head iron, or shear head, is fitted, consisting of two rings + united by a piece of iron about three inches long, from the centre of + which there is a hook on each side for the steadying guys, and a + small block for the halyards is seized on to the iron between the + rings. A spare cross-bar is placed on the top of the lading, over the + midship uprights, and lashed down to the bearer. It is fitted with a + span seized along its top-side, and the bights, with a thimble in + each, project just beyond the cross-bar. The ends of the shears are + then stepped into the thimbles attached to this cross-bar, and the + sail hoisted. On smooth ice, with the wind aft or on the quarter, a + sledge will travel under sail at a good pace. But smooth ice was + almost unknown in the region explored by our expedition. + + [2] The tents were of light, close, unbleached duck. The eight-men + tents were nine feet four inches long at the bottom, and eight feet + at the top, seven feet wide and high, and weighed 44 lbs. The tent + ropes are six fathoms long of one and a quarter inch, and the tent + poles eight feet six inches long. + + [3] The medical stores for each sledge were:--2 phials of sal + volatile and aromatic spirits of ammonia; 2 phials of laudanum; 2 + phials of wine of opium; a small tin of Gregory's powders; 12 papers + (10 grains each) of Dover's powders; 32 papers (15 grains each) of + chalk powders; 30 papers (4 grains each) of sugar of lead; a bottle + of turpentine liniment; a phial of carbolic acid; glycerine ointment; + white ointment; carbolic plaster; 4 dozen purgative pills; oil silk. + Sponge, pins, expanding splints, and carbolized tow, cotton wool, a + catheter, a tourniquet, a truss with pad, a lancet, twill, Persian + gauze, 2 eye shades, small splint, scissors, flannel ice goggles, + tape, mustard, 3 calico bandages, 2 flannel bandages, and lint. These + stores were in a wooden case, and a medicine tin for bottles, + together weighing 4 lbs.; while their contents weighed 7 lbs. 11 + ozs., together, 12 lbs. + + [4] Our available force was much smaller than that of the expeditions + under Sir Horatio Austin (1850-51), and Sir Henry Kellet (1852-54). + They enjoyed the great advantage of having a third larger + force--ninety instead of sixty men. + + [5] The sledges for carrying boats have the two end cross-bars fitted + with two cleats, one on each side of the boat's keel. These cleats + are seven inches long, and are securely lashed to the cross-bars. Two + battens of American elm, each two inches wide and half an inch thick, + are lashed in a fore and aft direction to the top of the cross-bars + three and a half inches apart, that is to say one and three-quarters + inch on each side of the central bearer. They are sufficiently long + to allow of being secured to all the cross-bars. When the boat is + placed on the sledge the keel rests on the cross-bars between the + cleats, and is held in an upright position by one long cushion of + stout canvas, stuffed with cork cuttings, on each side, and these are + kept in their places by lashings. + + [6] As Sir Edward Parry's attempt to reach the Pole was the only + extended journey that was ever undertaken due north across the Polar + Sea, until the second attempt was made by the northern division of + sledges under my command, it will be well to give, in this place, the + details of Parry's equipment and the result of his expedition. + + A Sir Edward Parry sailed from England in the "Hecla," on April 3rd, + 1827; when placing her in a safe harbour on the north coast of + Spitzbergen, he commenced his memorable attempt to reach the Pole on + June 21st. He had two boats, the "Enterprise" and the "Endeavour." + Parry himself, with Mr. Beverley, was in the former, James Ross and + Edward Bird in the latter. Ten seamen and two marines formed the crew + of each boat. The boats were flat-bottomed, with the extreme breadth + of seven feet, carried well forward and aft, and twenty feet long, + the timbers of tough ash and hickory. On the outside frame a system + of planking was adopted with a view to securing elasticity in the + frequent concussions with the ice. This consisted of a covering of + waterproof canvas coated with tar, then a thin fir plank, then a + sheet of felt, and, lastly, a thin oak plank, all secured to the + timbers by iron screws. On each side of the keel there was a strong + runner shod with metal, like that of a sledge, on which the boats + entirely rested when on the ice. A hide span across the fore-part of + the runners had two horse-hair drag ropes attached to it. The boats + had two thwarts, a locker at each end, a light framework along the + sides for containing provisions and spare clothes, a bamboo mast, and + tanned duck sail, fourteen paddles, and a steer oar. They started + with seventy-one days' provisions. The weight of each boat was 1,539 + lbs., and the total weight, with provisions, 3,753 lbs., or 268 lbs. + per man; besides four light taboggan sledges weighing 26 lbs. each. + The daily allowance for each man was 10 ozs. of biscuit, 9 ozs. of + pemmican, 1 oz. of cocoa, and 1 gill of rum. Parry took no + lime-juice. They slept in the boat with sails as awnings, and + travelled during the night. + + They sailed in the boats until June 23rd, when it became necessary to + haul them on the ice in 81° 12´ 51´´ N. The actual travelling then + began over floes of small extent, intersected by hummocks. After a + journey of thirty days, Parry reached his most northern point on July + 23rd, in latitude, by dead reckoning, 82° 45´ N. No actual + observation for latitude was obtained at their extreme northern + point. They had travelled ninety-two miles over the ice, and two + hundred in the boats before they hauled them on to the floe, but were + only one hundred and seventy-two miles from the "Hecla." Such had + been the drift of the floes to the southward. The boats returned to + the "Hecla" on August 21st, and Parry arrived in England again on + October 6th. + + This journey was made in the middle of summer after the disruption of + the ice. The daily allowance of food for the men was insufficient, + and the weight of 26 lbs. for each man was too great. But these were + points which could only be learnt by experience, and Sir Edward Parry + was the pioneer of Arctic sledge travelling. He attained the highest + northern latitude ever before reached by man, and it was forty-eight + years and two months before any explorer succeeded in going beyond + the parallel which Parry reached in 1827. + + + + +CHAPTER XX. + +THE JOURNEY OF EGERTON AND RAWSON. + + + "You were used to say, + Extremity was the trier of spirits, + That common chances common men could bear, + That when the sea was calm, all boats alike + Showed mastership in floating." + + SHAKESPEARE. + +It was a part of Captain Nares's scheme for the spring campaign that, +before the departure of the extended parties, a dog sledge should be +despatched to communicate with our consort wintering some fifty miles to +the southward of us. + +The officers and men of the "Discovery" were, of course, in total +ignorance of our position and even of our safety, for no communication +had taken place between the two ships since the day of our departure +from Discovery Harbour, seven months before. As soon as there was +sufficient light to admit of travelling, the important and necessary +duty had to be undertaken of conveying information to her respecting our +position, so that the anxiety of her people concerning our safety might +be relieved, and also that the Captain of the "Discovery" might be made +acquainted with our intentions regarding the routes of exploration +allotted to our sledge travellers. The parties from the "Discovery" +would then adopt other routes, and thus the area of unknown country to +he explored would be extended to the utmost limit possible. The work of +the expedition, consisting of the journeys of the different parties from +the two ships, taking different routes, would thus embrace all that +human effort could achieve with the means provided. + +[Illustration: DOGS AND SLEDGE.] + +The duty of communicating with the "Discovery" was entrusted to Egerton; +and Rawson, who was naturally desirous of re-visiting his ship, was +allowed to accompany him. Their sledge was dragged by a team of nine +dogs, and the party was provisioned and equipped for an absence of ten +days. If they failed in accomplishing their object in that time, and +their supplies became exhausted, they could replenish their stock from +the large depôt that had been established during the previous autumn at +a point about midway between the two ships, in Lincoln Bay. Petersen, +the Danish interpreter, accompanied the two officers in the capacity of +dog driver. + +In consequence of the very low temperature experienced during the first +week in March, their time of departure had to be deferred. Sunday, the +12th of March, was the day eventually selected for the start of this the +first sledging expedition of the season. + +The temperature on that morning was low, but rose gradually towards +noon, until it seemed inclined to remain stationary at 30° below zero. + +There were further indications of a continuance of fine weather, from +the day being bright and clear and the barometer steady. Letters to our +friends on board the "Discovery" were hastily finished. Immediately +divine service had been performed the colours were hoisted, and amidst +the cheers of "all hands," who had assembled on the floe to bid the +travellers God speed, H.M. sledge "Clements Markham," with its bright +standard fluttering out bravely before a light breeze, started with the +object of renewing intercourse with our comrades in the "Discovery." + +For the next two or three days our thoughts on board were constantly +with the absent ones, especially as the temperature, shortly after their +departure, had again fallen very low. This, however, caused us little +uneasiness, for we knew that everything that lay in our power had been +done to protect them from any sudden and extreme cold, and we all had +the greatest confidence in the skill, discretion, and sound judgment of +our two messmates. Many a silent prayer was offered up in their behalf, +that they might accomplish their mission in safety, and return speedily +with good news of those who, like ourselves, were wintering in the ice. + +On the third day they returned unexpectedly with a sad tale of woe and +suffering, and with the poor Dane utterly prostrate and helpless on the +sledge. I cannot do better than relate the sad story in Lieutenant +Egerton's own words. + +We read in his official report, that not five hours after they had left +the ship "frost-bites became so numerous, that I thought it advisable to +encamp." + +This was only the beginning of the story, for they appear to have passed +a comparatively comfortable night. + +At any rate they were up early the next morning and again under weigh; +at about one o'clock, when they halted for lunch, Petersen complained of +cramp in his stomach and was given some hot tea. He had no appetite, +which perhaps was as well, for we read of the bacon, which is always +used for lunch, "We were unable to eat it, being frozen so hard that we +could not get our teeth through the lean." They still continued their +journey, encountering some very rough travelling, which necessitated +severe physical labour on the part of the two officers. "The dogs were +of little or no use in getting across these slopes, as it was impossible +to get them to go up the cliff, and Petersen being unable to work, +Lieutenant Rawson and I had to get the sledge along as best we could." +Towards the end of the day we read: "Petersen began to get rather worse, +and was shivering all over, his nose being constantly frost-bitten, and +at times taking five or ten minutes before the circulation could be +thoroughly restored. Lieutenant Rawson had several small frost-bites, +and I escaped with only one." + +On halting for the night, directly the tent was pitched they sent +Petersen inside with strict injunctions to shift his foot gear and get +into his sleeping-bag, whilst they busied themselves in preparing supper +and attending to the dogs; but when they entered the tent, they found +"that he had turned in without shifting his foot gear, was groaning a +good deal, and complaining of cramp in the stomach and legs." + +Having made him change, they gave him some tea, and then administered a +few drops of sal volatile, which appeared to give the poor fellow a +little ease. + +The next morning the wind was so high and their patient in such a weak +state that they did not think it prudent to attempt a start. He had +passed a very restless night, and still complained very much of cramp. + +Later in the day he appeared to get worse, "shaking and shivering all +over and breathing in short gasps. His face, hands, and feet were all +frost-bitten, the latter severely, and he had pains in his side as +well." After restoring the circulation they rubbed him with warm +flannels and placed one of their comforters round his stomach. + +In such a wretched state was the poor fellow that they agreed it would +endanger his life if they proceeded on their journey; and that when the +weather moderated the only course they could pursue was to return with +all haste to their ship. + +As it was impossible to keep their patient warm in the tent, these two +young officers burrowed a hole in a snow-drift, and into this cavity +they transported the sick man, themselves, and all their tent robes, +closing the aperture by placing over it the tent and sledge. They +deprived themselves of their own clothing for the benefit of the +invalid, whose frozen feet they actually placed inside their clothes in +direct contact with their bodies, until their own heat was extracted and +they were themselves severely frost-bitten in various parts. The poor +fellow was now in a very low state; he could retain neither food nor +liquid. "About 6 P.M. he was very bad; this time worse than before. +There appeared to be no heat in him of any kind whatever, and he had +acute pains in the stomach and back. We chafed him on the stomach, +hands, face, and feet, and when he got better wrapped him up in +everything warm we could lay our hands upon," namely, their own +clothing, which they could ill afford to lose; but they entirely forgot +their own condition in their endeavours to ameliorate that of their +comrade. Lighting their spirit lamp and carefully closing every crevice +by which the cold air could enter, they succeeded in raising the +temperature of the interior to 7°; but "the atmosphere in the hut became +somewhat thick!" This was, however, preferable to the intense cold. Let +us follow the story out, and learn how nobly these two officers tended +their sick and suffering companion. "We were constantly asking if he was +warm in his feet and hands, to which he replied in the affirmative; but +before making him comfortable" (fancy being _comfortable_ under such +circumstances!) "for the night, we examined his feet, and found them +both perfectly gelid and hard from the toes to the ankle, his hands +nearly as bad. So each taking a foot we set to work to warm them with +our hands and flannels, as each hand and flannel got cold _warming them +about our persons_, and also lit up the spirit lamp. In about two hours +we got his feet to, and put them in warm foot gear, cut his bag down to +allow him more room to move in, and then wrapped him up in the spare +coverlet. His hands we also brought round and bound them up in flannel +wrappers, with mitts over all. Gave him some warm tea and a little rum +and water, which he threw up. Shortly after I found him eating snow, +which we had strictly forbidden once or twice before. In endeavouring to +do this again during the night, he dragged his feet out of the covering; +but only a few minutes could have elapsed before this was detected by +Lieutenant Rawson, who, upon examining his feet, found them in much the +same state as before. We rubbed and chafed them again for over an hour, +and when circulation was restored wrapped him up again, and so passed +the third night." + +The patience and endurance of the two officers are beyond all praise. It +is difficult to realize the misery of that night. Wearied with the +severe physical exertions of the two previous days, having their own +meals to prepare and the dogs to look after, they had to pass a +sleepless and anxious night in their endeavours to keep life in the body +of their half-frozen comrade. + +On the following morning Petersen appeared to be slightly better, so +thinking it was preferable to run the risk of taking him back as he was, +than to pass such another night as the last, they put him on the sledge, +and, having hurriedly eaten their breakfast, they started for the ship +with all despatch. They had a rough journey before them of eighteen +miles; but they knew it was a case of life and death, and they +encouraged the dogs to their utmost speed. The dogs, being homeward +bound, were willing enough and needed little persuasion, so that, for a +time, they rattled along at a good pace. But actual progress could not +have been very rapid, for we read in Egerton's report that the patient's +"circulation was so feeble that his face and hands were constantly +frost-bitten, entailing frequent stoppages whilst we endeavoured to +restore the affected parts." The difficulties of the homeward journey +may be gathered from the following extracts: "On arriving at the Black +Cape we had to take the patient off the sledge, and while one assisted +him round, the other kept the dogs back, for by this time they knew they +were homeward bound, and required no small amount of trouble to hold in. +After getting the sledge round and restoring Petersen's hands and nose +(which were almost as bad again a few minutes after), and securing him +on the sledge, we again set off. At the next cape the same difficulties +were experienced, in fact rather more, for the sledge took charge down a +'ditch,'[1] about twenty-five feet deep, turning right over three times +in its descent, and out of which we had to drag it, and while clearing +harness (which employed us both, one to stand in front of the dogs with +the whip, while the other cleared the lines), the dogs made a sudden +bolt past Lieutenant Rawson, who was in front with the whip, and dragged +me more than a hundred yards before we could stop them. At length, after +the usual process with Petersen (that of thawing his hands and nose, +which we did every time we cleared harness, or it was actually necessary +to stop), we got away, thankful that our troubles were over. The dogs +got their harness into a dreadful entanglement in their excitement to +get home; but we were afraid to clear them lest they should break away +from us, or cause us any delay, as we were both naturally anxious to +return with the utmost speed to the ship, and so relieve ourselves of +the serious responsibility occasioned by the very precarious state in +which our patient was lying. Upon arriving alongside at 6.30 P.M., we +were very thankful that Petersen was able to answer us when we informed +him he was at home." + +Poor fellow! it was the last home he ever reached alive, for in two +short months his remains were carried from the ship and laid in their +last resting-place in this world, on the summit of a low hill +overlooking the scene of his last sledge journey! In conclusion, Egerton +says, "I regret exceedingly that I have been compelled to return to the +ship without having accomplished my journey to H.M.S. 'Discovery;' but I +trust that what I have done will meet with your approval, and that the +course I adopted may be the means of having lessened the very serious +and distressing condition of Petersen." Gallant fellow! of course his +doings meet not only with the approval but the admiration of all +Englishmen who take pride in the noble and heroic deeds of their +countrymen. The work of these two brave young officers on this occasion +stands out conspicuously amongst the many deeds of daring and devotion +with which the annals of Arctic adventure abound. + +It must be remembered that during the time they were away the sun had +only just made its reappearance, and was therefore at a very low +altitude, so that little benefit could be derived from its rays; and it +only afforded sufficient light to enable the travellers to keep on the +march for about eight or nine hours a day.[2] On the 20th of March, five +days after the return from their calamitous journey, the same two +officers made another and a more successful start. On this occasion they +were accompanied by a couple of sailors, and their sledge was dragged by +a team of seven dogs. In five days, after a severe and toilsome journey, +rendered doubly so by the extreme cold and the heavy nature of the road +over which they had to travel, they reached the "Discovery," conveying +to her officers and crew the pleasing intelligence of our safety, and +receiving in return an account of the happy winter passed by them. + +Poor Petersen never recovered from the effects of this journey. He +rallied a little after he arrived on board, and was placed under the +tender and skilful treatment of Dr. Colan, who for some time held out +slight hopes of his recovery; but the injuries he had received were of +too serious a nature to admit of much hope, and he gradually sank until +he expired peacefully on the 14th of May. Perhaps it was better that it +should be so, for the poor fellow would not only have been disfigured by +losing portions of his nose and ears, but he would also have been a +cripple, for the doctor had been compelled to amputate both his feet in +order to stop the mortification from extending. These frost-bites are +indeed very dreadful, and must always be quickly taken in hand so as to +avoid any serious result. + +So cold were the frozen limbs of poor Petersen, that his companions said +it was like touching cold steel, and produced frost-bite almost as +rapidly as if they were really touching a piece of metal! + +Although this chapter is rather a mournful one, and has a very +melancholy termination, I make no apology for having devoted it entirely +to our first sledging expedition of the season, believing that my +readers will feel both pride and pleasure in hearing of the noble +conduct of my two messmates. + + +FOOTNOTES: + + [1] By a "ditch" is meant a hollow formed between a high snow-drift + and a hummock or any projection. Some of these ditches were very + steep and precipitous. + + [2] In previous expeditions parties have left their ships in March; + but the March of 75° N. is very different from the March of 82° N. In + the former position the sun has been many days longer above the + horizon than in 82° N. + + + + +CHAPTER XXI. + +THE ROUTINE OF SLEDGE TRAVELLING. + + + "We are well persuaded + We carry not a heart with us from hence + That grows not in a fair consent with ours; + Nor leave not one behind, that doth not wish + Success and conquest to attend on us." + + _Henry V._ + +On the morning of Monday, the 3rd of April, an unwonted bustle and +excitement on board and around the "Alert" betokened that something +unusual was taking place. Men in their travelling costumes might have +been observed busily engaged in adding the last finishing touches to the +already well-packed sledges. Officers, also in travelling attire, were +carefully conveying delicate instruments from the ship to the row of +sledges drawn up in "line of battle" on the floe, whilst the white +ensign flying from the peak bore witness of some important event. + +The day was indeed one of memorable import, for it was the one that we +had all, during the long dark winter, looked forward to as that on which +our real work was to commence. It was the day on which we were to start +forth with the object of achieving all that was possible with the means +at our disposal, in the great and glorious work of increasing the stock +of geographical knowledge respecting the Polar regions. No wonder, +then, that the scene of our winter quarters presented an animated and +unwonted appearance on that bright but intensely cold morning. + +The sledges, seven in number, on two of which were placed the boats to +accompany the northern division, were drawn up in single line, one +before the other, according to the seniority of their respective +leaders. They were all fully equipped and provisioned, and were "manned" +by a force of fifty-three officers and men; a chosen band, eager to +emulate the deeds of their predecessors, and willing to risk their lives +in bringing to a successful issue the task they had resolved to +accomplish. + +A strict medical examination had been held a day or two previously, and +the rather unnecessary question, "Do you feel yourself fit and able in +every way to go sledging?" was put to all. It is needless to record the +answer! + +On the previous day, being Sunday, Pullen preached a capital sermon, +drawing comparisons between the undertaking in which we were about to +engage, and the march of the Israelites to the Promised Land. The hymn +"for those at sea" was sung and the Holy Communion celebrated, at which +latter service there was an exceptionally good attendance, the number of +communicants amongst the men having largely increased. + +From each sledge flew the bright colours of its commander's standard: a +swallow-tailed flag bearing the armorial colours, and emblazoned with +the crest of its owner, each charged with the red cross of St. George. +In addition, the two boats displayed from their mast-heads Captain +Nares's Union Jack and a white ensign. Worked by the fair hands of some +loved and cherished one at home, these standards, as they fluttered out +bravely before a gentle breeze, kindled our enthusiasm, whilst they +materially added to the spirit and gaiety of the scene. + +The sledges were arranged in the following order:--"Marco Polo" (with a +boat), "Challenger," "Victoria" (with a boat), "Poppie," "Bulldog," +"Alexandra," and "Bloodhound;" the latter was only a small sledge party +ordered to accompany us for three or four days, then supply us with +three days' provisions, and return to the ship to report our progress. + +At eleven o'clock, everything being in readiness for a start, all hands +assembled on the floe, and prayers were read by Pullen. The hymn, "God, +from whom all blessings flow," was then sung, after which the order was +given to "fall in," and, amidst the hearty cheers of those few who were +left behind, the sledging parties moved off. The captain and officers +accompanied us for a short distance, when, wishing us Godspeed, they +turned to go back. This was a signal for three cheers from the +travellers, after which they settled down to their work, and the march +was steadily commenced. + +The first day's march was necessarily a short one. It was to many their +introduction to the "drag-ropes," and symptoms of fatigue were soon +detected, caused by the energetic exertions of the inexperienced, who, +unlike the veterans of the previous autumn, overtaxed their strength in +their ardour to perform a good day's work. + +The temperature at starting was 33° below zero, and at this it remained +steady the whole day, rendering the task of writing up our journals when +we halted extremely unpleasant and painful. + +The scene of our first encampment was an animated and picturesque one. +We had marched about six miles from the ship, and the site selected was +at the base of a low brow, forming a connection or isthmus between a +long projecting tongue and the mainland. Here we pitched our seven +tents, from each of which the smoke from the cooking utensils issued, +ascending in spiral columns until lost amidst the clouds. In our rear +were the snow-clad hills, whilst in front was the illimitable frozen +sea. Men hurried about in the execution of various duties incidental to +"pitching for the night," such as the issuing of provisions by the +several sledge-captains, the banking up with snow of the exterior of the +tents, the re-packing of the sledges, or the careful covering up of the +lading so as to ensure its protection from snow-drift; all of which +duties must be sedulously carried out before rest and repose can be +sought in the sleeping-bags. A pleasing aroma of cooking tea was mixed +with the fragrance of stewed pemmican, and made us smack our lips in +anticipation of the meal that was preparing. + +Not the least hard part of a day's work is that of camping after a +toilsome and weary journey, especially when the temperature is low and a +cold sleepless night anticipated; but when the weather is warm enough to +obtain a good night's rest, the order to halt is always received with +very great satisfaction, more especially when a good day's work has been +accomplished, with the prospect of fair travelling on the morrow. + +As soon as the tents are ready for the reception of the men, they enter +one by one, take off their "overalls" for which their duffel coats are +substituted, change their foot gear and get into their sleeping-bags. +This change of foot gear in the morning and evening is the whole extent +of the toilet performed by the sledgers until their return to the ship! + +The following morning we were under weigh pretty early, having spent a +cold wretched night, only too glad to be up and doing something, the +temperature inside our tent, with all the men in their bags, being as +low as 15° below zero. The experience gained during the autumn had a +very salutary effect on the travellers, the apprehension even of +frost-bite being in itself sufficient to banish all idea of sleep. + +The operation of dressing and undressing, although it is entirely +limited to the clothing of the feet, is without doubt one of the most +disagreeable duties connected with sledge travelling. Our hose and +blanket-wrappers, although they were invariably kept _inside_ our +sleeping-bags during the night, were frozen so hard in the morning that +they were with the greatest difficulty folded over our feet. Sometimes +the wrappers were tied round the knees at night-time to protect them +from the cold, for that part of our body seemed more sensitive to the +temperature than any other. + +Not the least trying part of our toilet was lacing and tying the stiffly +frozen strings of our equally hard moccasins with fingers either aching +from cold or devoid of all sensation. Not only was this a very painful +operation, but it was one that sorely taxed and ruffled the equanimity +of our tempers. + +The snow over which we travelled was very soft and, unfortunately for +us, was also very deep, making the dragging with our heavily laden +sledges most laborious, in fact so much so that we were frequently +compelled to resort to "double banking;" that is to say, the two crews +would be employed in first dragging on one sledge and then return to +advance the other. This, of course, made our progress very slow. After +the long confinement of the men during the darkness of the winter, they +were, in spite of the careful attention that had been paid to daily +exercise, hardly in what might be called first-rate condition, so that +fatigue for the first few days was felt by the majority, and not wishing +to impose too much on their zealous desire to push on, short journeys +were in consequence performed. + +On the second day out, the temperature fell to 45° below zero, or 77° +below freezing point. The cold then was so intense as to deprive us of +sleep, the temperature _inside_ the tent being as low as -25°, the whole +period of rest being occupied in attempting to keep the blood in +circulation. Several frost-bites were sustained, but they were all +attended to in time, and resulted in nothing worse than severe and very +uncomfortable blisters. + +So hard were our tent robes and sleeping-bags frozen that they resembled +sheet-iron, and care had to be taken to prevent them from coming into +contact with the face, for an abrasion of the skin would undoubtedly +follow! + +Our curry paste, a small quantity of which we used to mix with our +pemmican to make it more palateable, looked, as the cook of the day +observed, exactly like a piece of brass, and was equally hard. Cramp in +the legs was complained of by many during the first few nights, but +gradually wore off, having in all probability been induced by the severe +and unaccustomed exercise. Thirst was also a subject of complaint, and +this, except at meal times, it was impossible to alleviate; for +although each man was supplied with a tin water-bottle covered with +duffel, the water could not be prevented from freezing, in spite of the +bottles being kept inside the waistbands of the men's trousers. The +practice of quenching thirst by putting snow or ice into the mouth is a +very dangerous one and was never permitted. + +On the fourth day out we parted with our little sledge, the +"Bloodhound," which, having fulfilled its mission, returned to the ship, +taking back one of our party, who appeared unable to stand the fatigues +of sledging, and leaving one of their crew to fill his vacancy. We were +thus able to send back intelligence of our progress so far, and to +report the health of the men to be satisfactory, and that all were in +capital spirits. On the 10th of April the six sledges in company arrived +at the depôt of provisions established near Cape Joseph Henry during the +autumn, and found it undisturbed. The remainder of that day was employed +in bringing the provisions off to the sledges, which were left on the +ice, and in distributing them. The next morning was thick and foggy, the +atmosphere being rendered doubly obscure by a heavy fall of snow. + + "The cold, uncomfortable daylight dawned, + And the white tents, topping a low ground fog, + Show'd like a fleet becalmed." + +On this day the supporting sledges "Bulldog" and "Alexandra," having +performed the duties allotted to them, bade farewell to their companions +and returned to their ship. The two extended parties advanced on their +solitary missions; the northern division leaving the land and pushing +straight out on the rugged polar pack, whilst the western party +continued the exploration of the coast to the westward. + +It was a strange farewell that was taken on that cold dull day on the +inhospitable ice-floe, amidst bristling hummocks and heaped up +snow-drifts, as the several parties pursued their different courses, one +returning to their Arctic home, the others to unknown difficulties, but +to hoped-for discoveries. + +Brief was the parting, but sincere were the wishes for each other's +success. Hearty British cheers resounded in that icy wilderness, +hitherto undisturbed by the presence of mortal man, as we bade adieu to +our fellow-travellers, the echoes from which had scarce died away before +their forms vanished from our view in the thick driving snow that +shrouded in obscurity the surrounding objects. + +It was, however, no time for reflection; for now all our energies, both +mental and physical, had to be devoted to the furtherance of the great +work with which we were entrusted. The men resolutely seized their +drag-ropes, and with light and willing hearts commenced their toilsome +advance. + +In order to enable my readers to follow us during the time we were +engaged in the sledging operations, I will endeavour to explain, as +briefly as possible, the ordinary daily routine invariably carried out +by those so employed belonging to the "Alert." + +The cook for the day is an important personage, and his duties, as I +have before related, are of a very onerous and trying description. Each +individual composing the sledge crew has to perform this office in turn +during twenty-four hours, and it is one that sorely taxes his patience +and powers of endurance, especially in very cold weather. He gladly +transfers his functions as cook to his successor, happy in the +assurance that his "turn" will not come round for another week, unless +sickness or any other unforeseen event should prostrate any of his +comrades. + +The cook's work commences at an early hour, when, after having lighted +his lamp and converted sufficient ice or snow into water for the morning +meal, he reenters the tent, and walking unconcernedly on the sleeping +forms of his companions, proceeds deliberately to brush from the top and +sides of the tent the condensed moisture that has been accumulating +during the night, and which falls in minute frozen particles on the +coverlet. This operation being concluded, to the no small relief of +those over whom he has been walking, the coverlet is removed, well +brushed, shaken, folded up, and placed on the sledge. He then busies +himself with the important preparations for breakfast. In about two +hours from the time that the cook is called, the cocoa is reported +ready, when the rest of the party are awakened. + +If the weather is very cold, breakfast is discussed in our bags, in +which we all sit up; a comical-looking lot in our grey skull-caps and +duffel coats! The biscuit bag is then laid in the centre of the tent, +spoons are produced, and the pannikins, each containing one pint of warm +cocoa, are handed in. The only articles that were not considered as +common property amongst us were our spoons. These were slightly larger +than an ordinary table-spoon, were made of horn, and supplied to each +sledger by a beneficent Government. We generally carried them slung +round our necks by laniards, or in our pockets. + +The pannikins being emptied they are returned to the cook, who has in +the mean time been preparing the pemmican. So hard is this article +frozen that the portions for use have to be chipped off with a chopper +before they can be put into the stew-pan. + +While the cook's anxiety is momentarily increased by the fear that his +fuel will be consumed before the repast is prepared, and his fingers are +alternately burnt and frost-bitten in his endeavours to trim and adjust +the lamp, prayers are read to those inside, the foot gear is changed and +the sleeping-bags rolled up. By the time this has been done, the +pemmican is ready, passed in, and eaten. Orders are then given to strike +tent, pack sledge, and prepare to march. + +The great secret in packing a sledge properly is to have the weights as +nearly as possible in the centre--as far from the extremes as it is +possible to get them, so that the sledge may rise easily over obstacles. +When all is ready, the drag-ropes are manned, and with a "one, two, +three, haul," and a good pull altogether, the sledge is started and the +march commenced. + +Care should be taken to scrape the pannikins out with a knife, before +the refuse inside has time to freeze, otherwise it will be difficult to +remove. Water for washing purposes, of any description, whilst sledging +is quite out of the question. After marching for about five or six +hours, a halt is called for lunch. This meal consists of four ounces of +bacon, a little biscuit, and a warm pannikin of tea to each man. + +Although the most refreshing and enjoyable of all our meals, luncheon +was, when there was much wind, or the weather intensely cold, a very +trying one. The halt is of necessity long. Frequently an hour or an hour +and a half elapses before the tea is reported ready, during which time +the men are compelled to keep constantly on the move to avoid +frost-bites. When there is much wind the tent is pitched; but this adds +little to our comfort, for it is too cold to remain inside for any +length of time. If we were not all suffering from the same cause, we +should be disposed to laugh at the strange antics of our companions in +their efforts to keep their feet from getting frost-bitten. One man is +"marking time" at the double; another jumping up and down in a frantic +manner; another is sitting down cross-legged like a Turk, or a tailor, +and is occupied in belabouring his feet with his mittened hands, in his +energetic endeavours to restore circulation; whilst another, unable any +longer to endure the cold, commences furiously to kick the sledge, or a +hummock, with both feet like one bereft of his senses. Although halted, +little rest is enjoyed; anxiously is the kettle watched, and many are +the tender inquiries concerning the state of the water inside. "Does it +boil?" is a question frequently asked, and unless the cook is blessed +with an amiable disposition, the perversity of the kettle is sufficient, +at times, to drive him almost distracted. The old saw, "A watched pot +never boils," is fully exemplified. At length, to the relief and delight +of all, the announcement is made that the tea is ready, when all +troubles are forgotten in the pleasure and enjoyment of a warm pannikin +of tea. Sometimes little difficulties would arise in consequence of the +haste with which it was necessary to prepare and discuss this meal. +These, although serious at the time, served afterwards to amuse, and +were soon forgotten. On one occasion, the water having been boiled, and +the cook having, as he thought, carefully added the tea and sugar, which +were as carefully stirred up, the allowance of tea was served out and +eagerly drunk by the wearied sledgers, who were only too glad and +thankful to receive anything warm. It was not until some time after the +allowance had been consumed that the cook discovered he had omitted to +put in the _tea_, and had served out simply a decoction of warm water +and brown sugar! Sometimes the tea was made from salt-water ice, the +cook having inadvertently mixed it before tasting the water! In such a +case we had either to drink it, or get none at all! + +Our bacon was, as a rule, frozen so hard as to be like a piece of +granite, and it was only by thawing it in our warm tea that it became +eatable. This had the effect of converting our tea into a sort of soup! + +The time of halting for the night varied considerably; but it was +generally after ten, eleven, and sometimes twelve hours' steady +marching. The first thing to be done is to select a suitable site as +level as possible and where the snow is not too deep, for pitching the +tent, which should be carefully banked up outside with snow to the +height of two or three feet. Every one assists in this work except the +cook, who is busily engaged in the necessary preparations for the +evening meal. As soon as the tent is ready, the men enter, change their +foot gear, and struggle into their half-frozen bags, their toes and feet +having previously been examined by the officer for the detection of +frost-bites. If a frost-bite is discovered, circulation is immediately +restored, and the injured part dressed by the application of a little +glycerine ointment and some lint. + +As a rule the moccasins, hose, and blanket wrappers are so firmly frozen +together that they are with difficulty separated, and are taken off the +feet as _one_ article of clothing. It is amusing to witness the frantic +exertions made by some of the men in their efforts to struggle into +their duffel coats. They are frozen so stiff and hard that this +operation is always an intensely aggravating one, and even when it is +accomplished, the men are utterly helpless until the warmth from their +bodies has partially thawed the coats and rendered them supple. They +were, with a very great deal of truth, likened to "strait-jackets." + +[Illustration: GETTING READY TO "BAG."] + +By the time that the whole party are comfortably settled in their bags, +supper, consisting of tea and pemmican, is ready and served; after which +pipes are lighted, conversation ensues, and the allowance of grog is +served out. This is undoubtedly the most delightful and happiest part of +the day's proceedings, and I should deprecate very strongly any attempts +to deprive the poor Arctic sledger of his small modicum of rum and +water, provided it was always issued at the same time as ours, and +_never_ during the fatigue and exertions of the day. The quantity is so +small that the most fanatical theorist cannot seriously maintain that it +can do harm. But experience proves that it tends very materially to +cheer and invigorate the men during the short time that they can really +call their own in the whole twenty-four hours, and it certainly imparts +a glow which induces sleep--a very important effect of its use. +Sometimes singing will be the order of the day, or rather evening, or +perhaps a book will be read aloud; but whatever amusement is resorted to +for the purpose of thoroughly enjoying the half-hour after supper, +whether it is singing, reading, or yarning, all are cheerful, contented, +and happy. + +Home is, of course, a great topic of conversation, and what each man +intends doing on his return to England is freely discussed. We know all +about each other, and frequently detect ourselves confiding secrets that +we should under ordinary circumstances divulge only to our bosom +friends. Sometimes a hot argument is maintained between two men +belonging to different counties on the relative merits of the pigs of +their own counties and their manner of feeding; or perhaps they will get +into a discussion on the liberality of large landed proprietors near +whom they may be living. For instance, one man who lived in Devonshire +was extolling Lord Mount Edgcumbe. "Ah! he was a noble lord! he opened +his grounds once a week for the admission of the public." But another +man, hailing from Lancashire, answered by saying, "He didn't see that he +was any better than any other lord; for," he said, "Lord Derby admitted +the public into his park every day, and if it was raining he would send +his carriage for you!" This argument, although I fear not strictly +correct, was unanswerable, and the west countryman had to give in to the +more liberal experiences of his friend. + +Before composing ourselves to sleep, the cook, having made the necessary +preparations for the morning's meal, passes in our coverlet. This is +always the last thing done before closing the door of the tent for the +night. + +How is it possible to describe what this coverlet is like when handed +in? Those who have never been initiated into the mysteries of Arctic +sledge life would be unable to realize what it resembles when unpacked +from the sledge. It is more like a piece of wood or sheet-iron than an +article of woollen material. With the utmost difficulty it is unfolded; +but as for spreading, that is quite out of the question: it stands up in +the centre like a second tent, and refuses to lie flat, in spite of the +beating with which it is assailed. It is only after it has been some +time in this position that it gradually thaws, when it becomes a "wet +blanket" indeed! + +The contents of this chapter may give some idea of the ordinary routine +of a sledge traveller's life. The details were invariably carried out +by the different sledge parties despatched from the "Alert." In the +succeeding chapter we will follow the fortunes of the northern division, +and I shall endeavour to depict briefly the difficulties it had to +contend with, and the manner in which they were surmounted. + + + + +CHAPTER XXII. + +THE NORTHERN DIVISION--TRAVELLING IN APRIL. + + + "These high wild hills, and rough uneven ways, + Draw out our miles and make them wearisome; + And yet your fair discourse hath been as sugar, + Making the hard way sweet and delectable.... + But I bethink me, what a weary way!" + + _Richard II._ + +The different sledge parties having branched off, as related in the +preceding chapter, I must request my readers to follow the fortunes of +the northern division, which was under my command. + +The serious obstacles that so persistently impeded our progress were +immediately encountered. The retreating forms of our comrades, who had +assisted us thus far, were scarcely out of sight before we were busily +engaged in constructing a road along which to drag our sledges. These +roads were rendered necessary in consequence of the rugged nature of the +ice over which we had to travel, the floes being of the smallest +dimensions as regarded superficial area, and surrounded by broad fringes +of squeezed-up hummocks. The hummocks proved most formidable impediments +to our advance. No sooner had we congratulated ourselves upon +successfully accomplishing a passage through one line of these +obstacles, than ~~ 274 another, and perhaps a more ragged and +apparently impassable hedge, appeared in front of us. It seemed as if a +terrible conflict had been fought between these ponderous masses of ice, +which had so shattered and split them up as to suggest to us the idea +that they resembled a tempestuous broken sea suddenly frozen. + +[Illustration: OUTWARD AND RETURN TRACKS ON THE SEA ICE. + +Made by the Northern Sledging Party under the command of Commander A. H. +MARKHAM.] + +To make any advance at all, pickaxes and shovels were in constant +requisition, and with these implements we succeeded in hewing and +cutting a road for our sledges, by which we were able to make a +snail-like progress. The roughness of the road was not our only +difficulty. Around and about the hummocks the snow had drifted to such a +depth that the men were frequently floundering in it up to their waists, +and passages through this had to be cleared with shovels before the +sledges could be dragged on. Occasionally the sledges would have to be +unpacked and lightened considerably before they could be dragged through +this deep soft snow. + +We, at first, attempted to console ourselves with the idea that this +irregular and broken sea of ice was only caused by our proximity to the +land; and that we should, as we advanced in a northerly direction, meet +with smooth level floes, on which we should be able to travel along +merrily, and so make up for the time expended in struggling through the +hummocks. + +How delusive proved our hopes and anticipations the sequel will show! +The belts of hummocks that separated the floes varied from twenty yards +to half a mile in breadth, and were from fifteen to fifty feet in +height. + +Road-making, as we called it, was a work of daily, I may say of +constant, occurrence. We regarded our pickaxes with great affection, and +they were consequently treated with the utmost tenderness and care. Any +mishap to them would have been indeed a serious misfortune, as we should +have nothing to supply their place, and would therefore have been in a +predicament in which we could neither advance nor return. The anxiety +with which they were watched may therefore be imagined. + +Instead of giving simply a brief _résumé_ of our sledging life, it will, +I think, be more interesting to follow the sledge parties day by day in +their arduous march to the northward, and their still more irksome and +wearisome return journey. To do this, it will be as well to extract +portions from my daily journal, avoiding repetition as much as possible, +and commencing on the day after that on which we were left by our +supporting sledges to prosecute our undertaking. + +_April 12th._--A most gratifying and unexpected change of weather +enabled us to pass a comparatively comfortable night, the temperature +inside our tent being as high as +16°. Hitherto it has stood at, and +generally far below, zero. With the thermometer in the air registering a +few degrees below zero, it is just possible to keep ourselves warm +enough inside our tents to sleep; but with a temperature ranging from +-35° downwards sleep is almost out of the question. + +In order to keep the sun as much as possible at our backs during the +time we were on the march, we adopted the system of travelling, whilst +on our outward journey, between noon and midnight. The cooks were, as a +rule, called at about half-past nine in the forenoon, and the sledges +were generally on the move about half-past eleven. This time of +travelling was selected more with a view to the prevention of snow +blindness than anything else. + +After breakfast the road-makers, six in number, were advanced for the +purpose of constructing a road through an ugly fringe of hummocks on the +southern side of which our camp had been pitched; the rest of the party +being employed in striking the tents, packing and bringing on the +sledges, one by one, as far as the road was practicable. Being a bright +sunny day the tent robes and other gear were triced up to the boats' +masts and yards to dry. The sun was powerful enough to extract the +moisture from the woollen substance, which would freeze, forming a sort +of hoar-frost that could with ease be brushed or shaken off. + +On these bright clear days, the snow on the surface of the floes over +which we were journeying was so highly crystallized that it sparkled and +glittered with the most brilliant iridescent colours. The ground upon +which we trod appeared to be strewn with bright and lustrous gems, of +which the most prominent were diamonds, rubies, emeralds, and sapphires. +It was indeed a fairy-like scene; but our duties were too matter of fact +to admit of our indulging for any time in romance or sentiment. + +A glance at our comrades would quickly recall us to the reality of our +situation. Their dirty and rough-clad forms were strangely at variance +with the scene of enchantment that might be conjured up. With faces +scarified by the combined action of sun and frost, and black with smoke, +with the tips of their fingers senseless from repeated frost-bites, with +sore shoulders and aching limbs, the wearied sledgers pursued their way, +not altogether indifferent to the beauties that surrounded them, but +careless of the difficulties and discomforts they encountered. + +During the afternoon, being about three miles from the nearest land, we +observed, to our surprise, the fresh traces on the snow of a little +lemming! It is hard to tell what inducement this little animal could +have had for straying so far away from the land, and consequently from +its means of obtaining the wherewithal to support life! + +We passed through a dense mass of hummocks, emerging, eventually, on a +heavy floe of "ancient lineage," whose surface was undulating, and +adorned with veritable "ice-mountains" some twenty feet in height. These +were generally of a rounded form and of a smooth surface, and appeared +to be the result of long and continuous snow-drift. We camped on the +northern edge of the floe, the men being employed in cutting a road +through the hummocks whilst supper was preparing, in readiness for our +start on the morrow. + +A journey through, and over, hummocks is the most unsatisfactory kind of +travelling that can possibly be imagined. "Standing pulls" must be the +order of the day, and the incessant "one, two, three, haul" is +constantly heard. The trudging backwards and forwards to drag the +different sledges to the front along the same road is decidedly +monotonous; but this had no effect on the cheerfulness and general good +spirits of the men, who were all actuated by the same zealous desire to +do their best. The temperature all day had been delightful, ranging from +8° to 20° below zero. + +_April 13th._--A dull, cloudy day, with the sun shining at intervals, +and the temperature as low at one time as -33°. We cut a road and +dragged the sledges through a fringe of hummocks about two hundred yards +in breadth, then crossed a fine large floe that afforded us capital +travelling for nearly a mile in a northerly direction, then through +another long fringe of large and troublesome hummocks, until we were +completely brought to a standstill by a mass of enormous fragments of +ice, piled up in an irregular form to the height of from twenty to +thirty feet. Through this obstacle we resolved to cut a road: in fact, +no other alternative offered. It was a long and tedious job; but with +such a hearty good will did the men work that we had the satisfaction of +dragging our sledges over a very rough road and encamping for the night +with the difficulties in our rear. Parr with pickaxe and shovel was a +first-rate "navvy," and worked like a horse. + +Our routine was for one or other of us to select the best route through +the hummocks. This being done, one, with a gang of road-makers, +proceeded to construct the road, whilst the other, with the remainder of +the party, dragged the sledges on one by one. Great care had to be taken +that our boats, on the exceedingly rough road over which they were +dragged, did not sustain any injury. Sometimes it was a very delicate +matter, and one that required skilful handling, after the sledges had +been hauled up to the top of the hummocks, to lower them down in safety +on the opposite side. The ease and facility with which the ice yielded +to the dexterous blows of the pickaxes, wielded by strong and determined +men, was almost incredible. Apparently impenetrable masses of ice +vanished before their efforts, and left a fairly good road by which we +advanced. + +_April 14th._--Last night our sleeping-bags were frozen so hard that it +was with great difficulty we succeeded in getting into them. Even when +this was accomplished, the warmth we derived from them was +inappreciable, and we felt more as if we were confined in a wooden box +or coffin than in a woollen bag! My blanket wrappers, although I laid on +them all night, were so stiff this morning that I had the utmost +difficulty in bending them over my feet! Being Good Friday, our prayers +in the morning were of longer duration than usual. + +[Illustration: INTERIOR OF TENT.] + +Crossed an old floe having a hard incrustation on its surface--not +sufficiently strong, however, to bear the weight either of the men or +the sledges; consequently at every step we broke through, and would +then sink deeply into soft snow. This was not only very laborious but +very aggravating work. + +[Illustration: A PACKED SLEDGE.] + +On portions of the road, where these patches of level soft snow +occurred, the flat-bottomed taboggans, used in the Hudson Bay Company's +territory, would be suitable. But the greater part of the road was over +heavy broken-up hummocks and hard fragments of ice, lying at all kinds +of angles; on the whole we found the eight-men high-runner sledge which +we used, and which was originally designed by Sir Leopold McClintock, +infinitely preferable. Long experience has conclusively proved its +excellence. It was the kind of sledge with which the North West Passage +was discovered and the Parry Islands explored, and with us it once more +did most admirable service in many directions, and over the roughest +ground imaginable. + +The temperature was too low to allow us to stop for the purpose of +obtaining a meridian altitude, which we invariably get at noon. There +was an unpleasant nipping breeze from the northward; our faces, more +especially our noses, being "touched up" constantly by Jack Frost. + +The floes off Cape Joseph Henry, although actually smaller than most of +those we have crossed, were far more heavy. In all probability they are +reduced in size by great and continual pressure off the cape. The wind +freshening, and the weather becoming very thick, we halted an hour +earlier than we otherwise would have done. + +John Shirley, one of my sledge crew, complained of pains in his ankles +and knees. On examination they appeared slightly swollen, and I treated +him according to the instructions laid down for the guidance of the +sledging officers by our doctor. + +Although at the time ignorant of the fact, this was the first appearance +of that dreadful disease, scurvy, which shortly afterwards laid its +destroying hand upon us, and reduced us to such a helpless and prostrate +state. From this day we were deprived of the services of Shirley, who +gradually but surely got worse, and was never again able to render the +slightest assistance even in the most minute details of our routine. + +_April 15th._--A N.W. gale, with an exceedingly low temperature, and an +impervious snow-drift, rendered travelling quite out of the question. + +Extreme wretchedness, I might almost say abject misery, was our lot +to-day. + +We appeared to receive little benefit, in the way of warmth, from our +tent robes, and the temperature inside our tent, with our whole party +huddled close together, was 22° below zero! Gladly would we have pushed +on had it been possible. A hard day's work, even amongst the most +impenetrable hummocks, would have been infinitely preferable to our +present forced detention and inactivity. Unable to stir outside the +tent, on account of the blinding snow-drift that was whirling around, +too cold to read or even to sit up in one's bag for the sake of +conversation, tent robes and bags frozen hard--a combination of these +evils renders the position of those who suffer from them an unenviable +one indeed. It is a remarkable fact that we this day experienced a lower +temperature during a gale of wind than we did during the whole winter at +the "Alert's" winter quarters. This appears to point conclusively to the +fact that there can be no large body of water either to the northward or +westward of us. + +The thermometer invariably rose during the southerly gales experienced +in the winter, and this was very naturally attributed to the wind +blowing across a large expanse of open water. + +_April 16th._--Easter Sunday. + +The gale, although it had moderated, was still blowing too fiercely to +allow us to proceed. We were therefore compelled, sorely against our +inclination, to remain encamped. We unanimously came to the conclusion +that this was by far the most wretched and miserable Easter Sunday that +we had ever spent. Forty-eight hours in a gale of wind, tied up in a bag +off the most northern known land, with a temperature 67° below freezing +point, is certainly not the most pleasant manner that any one would +select for passing an Easter Sunday! + +For forty hours I did not have the slightest feeling in my feet, and +could not really declare that I was in possession of those useful +members--as for sleep, under the circumstances, that was quite out of +the question. In spite of the cold and dismal surroundings, we did not +neglect last evening the usual Saturday night's toast, on receipt of our +small allowance of grog. It most decidedly had the effect of cheering us +up considerably, and for the time assisted in making us forget the +discomfort of our position. At half-past four in the afternoon, the wind +having subsided, it was determined to make a move. We felt that anything +was preferable to the tedium and dreariness of our compulsory detention. +The tents were accordingly struck, sledges packed, and the march +renewed. Shirley, being unable to walk, was placed in his sleeping-bag, +rolled up in the tent robes, and tied securely on one of the sledges. +This seriously added to the weight to be dragged, whilst it also reduced +our motive power; however, we hoped that by thus giving him complete +rest, he would the more rapidly recover and resume his place on the +drag-ropes. + +Alas! how little did we think that the fearful and wasting disease, the +premonitory symptoms of which were now exhibited, would insidiously +steal its way amongst us, and assailing the party one by one reduce us +so disastrously as to bring us to the verge of destruction! + +We cut our way through a hedge of hummocks about one-third of a mile in +breadth, and then on to a floe apparently of great thickness; but, +unfortunately for us, not more than three hundred yards across. Between +these stupendous floes we would occasionally meet with some young ice +amongst the hummocks which, when it trended in the right direction, +would afford us easy travelling; but these leads were never of any +extent. + +The gale had accumulated the snow in deep drifts, which rendered the +task of dragging the sledges harder than ever. Our progress was +necessarily slow. We halted and encamped at half-past ten. The men +appeared to be more easily fatigued after lying so long idle in their +bags than if they had performed a hard day's work. Our camp this evening +was pitched almost abreast of Cape Joseph Henry, though some miles off +it. + +When viewed from seaward, or more correctly speaking, "iceward," this +headland presents a bold and rugged appearance, rising nearly +perpendicular from base to summit, to a height of about eight hundred +feet, whence the land recedes, gradually ascending until it culminates +in a peak about three or four hundred feet higher. It appears to be of +limestone formation, with regular stratifications dipping to the +southward at an angle of 6° to 10° from the horizontal. The Cape itself +terminates in a knife-like edge from summit to base, in shape very much +resembling the ram-bow of an ironclad. Conical Hill, situated +immediately to the southward of Cape Joseph Henry, when observed on the +same bearing, presents more the form of a hog's back than a cone, but +possesses the same bold, rugged aspect. It is about the same height as +the peak surmounting Cape Joseph Henry, and is of the same formation; +but, unlike its neighbour, the strata dip to the southward at an angle +of about 6° or 10° from the vertical, giving it altogether a rather +distorted appearance. There is a great deal of similarity in the +surrounding hills, all being more or less coniform, and of an altitude +of from one to two thousand feet. + +_April 17th._--Shirley no better this morning, and to add to our +troubles, George Porter, one of Parr's sledge crew, was also suffering +in the same manner from swollen and puffy knee joints. + +Two men _hors de combat_ out of our little force diminishes our strength +very materially, and as they have both to be carried on the sledges it +adds seriously to the weights to be dragged. The morning was bright and +sunny, with a temperature as high as 24° below zero, so we congratulated +ourselves that it was now really on the turn, and that we should no +longer encounter any more extreme cold. The men take kindly to their +snow-goggles, and never attempt to take them off whilst on the +march--perhaps my expatiating largely on the excruciating agony and +acute pain inseparable from snow blindness, is in some way connected +with their submissiveness in this respect! Alfred Pearce was, yesterday, +rather severely frost-bitten on one of his fingers; but circulation was +rapidly restored, and to-day, with the exception of a little soreness, +he suffers no ill effects from it. The travelling to-day was nearly a +repetition of what we had hitherto been encountering: large masses of +ice thickly compacted together, squeezed up into every conceivable, but +indescribable, shape and form to a height of about twenty-five feet; but +these had to succumb to the strenuous exertions of Parr and his +indefatigable road-makers. + +Energy and perseverance performed wonders. The men worked uncommonly +well--my only fear was that they would overtax their strength. Poor +fellows! they get little rest during the day, for even when we halt for +lunch, they are compelled to be continually on the move to keep their +blood in circulation. To sit or lie down for any length of time would be +fatal. No wonder, then, they are fatigued at the end of the day's work. + +Some of the floes over which we travelled to-day were of greater +thickness than others, and it was no unfrequent occurrence for us to +drop a height of six or seven feet from the top of one floe to the +surface of another; or, _vice versâ_, to have to haul the sledges up the +same height. This was no easy work with our heavily laden sledges and +boats. Snow commenced falling at 3 P.M., and continued all night. + +_April 18th._--The old story last night with our sleeping-bags! So hard +were they frozen that it occupied us a considerable time before we could +struggle into them. The night, however, was not so cold, and we +succeeded in sleeping pretty comfortably. Before starting this morning +we lightened our heavy sledge by making a redistribution of the weights +on all three sledges. By these means we hoped to be able to get on a +little better. + +We found the helmet worsted caps that were so kindly given to us by the +Empress very warm and comfortable for sleeping in. They are much +appreciated by the men, who call them "Eugenies," and they constantly +refer with gratitude to her Majesty's kind and thoughtful present. + +The travelling to-day was excessively heavy, in consequence of the +unevenness of the floes and the deep soft snow with which they were +covered. After lunch we arrived at and crossed some "veritable +palæocrystic floes"--apparently of gigantic thickness, and studded with +numerous rounded snow hillocks; the height of some of the latter being +as much as thirty feet above the surface of the floe. In crossing one of +these, the "Victoria" sledge capsized, but was soon righted without +damaging either the sledge or the boat, or injuring the invalid who was +lashed on top, and who received only a slight shaking. As we proceeded +northwards we opened out the land to the westward, and a large bay which +has since been called Clements Markham Inlet. A S.E. breeze sprang up in +the evening shortly before we halted, which, strange to say, sent the +temperature down rapidly to -33°, and we had, in consequence, to be +cautious about frost-bites. + +_April 19th._--A fine clear day. Our bags last night were rendered a +little more habitable by having been exposed during the day to the heat +of the sun, which was sufficiently powerful to extract the greater part +of the moisture which had been absorbed by them. Our plan is on fine +days to suspend as much as we possibly can from the masts and yards of +the boats, and to spread the gear out over the sledges, so that it may +dry as we travel along. This answers admirably and enables us to pass +more comfortable nights. + +After toiling hard for three and a half hours, during which time we had +advanced the sledges barely a quarter of a mile, I came to the +determination to abandon our largest boat. It was heart-breaking to +witness the men slaving in their endeavours to drag on the heavy sledge +and boat--to see the continual standing pulls, the incessant "one, two, +three, haul," and no result. + +I did not arrive at this decision until after very mature deliberation. +My conviction was that amongst such ice as that over which we were +travelling, should a disruption occur, our boats would be of little +service to us, except as a means of ferrying from one floe to another. +For this purpose I retain the smaller boat. + +Leaving the boat in as conspicuous a position as possible, with her mast +stepped and yard triced up, and having obtained a round of angles in +order to fix her position, so as to facilitate our finding her on the +return journey, the march was resumed, every one well pleased at being +rid of the incubus, as the large boat was always regarded. We travelled +over deep and uneven snow ridges, and experienced great difficulty in +getting from one floe to another, on account of the perpendicular drop. +Before halting we got on to some young ice amongst the hummocks, along +which we rattled gaily, actually performing a distance of about half a +mile in something like two hours! This is good work for us. It must be +remembered that we have to advance _three_ sledges, and to do this we +have to walk over the same road five times! + +If our invalids would only show some symptoms of improvement we should +have more hope of reaching a higher latitude; but at present they +compensate in weight and loss of power for the abandonment of the boat. +I regard each man carried as about 200 lbs. extra weight, and the loss +of their services on the drag-ropes is about equal to another 200 lbs. +weight to be added--therefore the two invalids reckon as much as 800 +lbs., exactly equivalent to the weight of the deserted boat! So long as +they remain ill, we gain nothing upon the actual weights dragged before +their sickness commenced. Instead of their getting better, we have the +prospect of an increased sick list, for this evening Alfred Pearce was +compelled to fall out from the drag-ropes, suffering from a badly +swollen ankle, and exhibiting in fact the same symptoms as the other +men. + +_April 20th._--This morning we were unable to make a start in +consequence of the thickness of the weather. Snow was falling slightly, +but the fog was so dense that it was impossible to see the length of the +sledge ahead. As I had brought with me one of Dickens's works, "The Old +Curiosity Shop," I read aloud to the men, who were much interested in +the story. + +By 2 P.M., the weather having cleared slightly, we determined to push on +and find our way through the fog and hummocks as best we could. The snow +was very deep and the hummocks appeared to be interminable. The task of +selecting a road was by no means easy--nothing to be seen but hummocks +in every direction. At eight o'clock, the fog lifting a little, we +succeeded in extricating ourselves from our difficulties, and crossing a +large heavy floe got on to a lead of young ice which gave us good +travelling. Although this young ice enabled us to travel quicker, and +rendered the work of dragging easier, still I was sorry to see it, as I +was rather apprehensive that the pack might break up earlier than we +anticipated, and so place us in an exceedingly awkward predicament. We +halted and camped at half-past ten, having (considering the lateness of +our start) performed a fair day's work. + +_April 21st._--A keen piercing wind from the northward. Travelling much +the same. Although the temperature was only 17° below zero, the cold was +more intense than we had yet felt it since leaving the ship. The wind +seemed to cut us in two, and was the cause of numerous superficial +frost-bites. One man, Thomas Simpson, was rather severely frost-bitten +in the big toe, which was, however, quickly attended to and brought +round. + +Our greatest enemies, whilst crossing a floe of any extent, were the +numberless cracks and fissures in the ice, radiating in all directions +and treacherously concealed by a covering of snow. Into these we +frequently fell, and as some of them were of great depth it seemed +almost miraculous that we escaped without a fractured limb! These cracks +must be produced either by enormous pressure or intense cold. + +_April 22nd._--The wind blew in heavy squalls last night, and continued +fresh this morning; but as we all dreaded a longer detention in our tent +we resolved to push on at all hazards. + +It was painful to witness the efforts of the poor fellows in their +endeavours to protect their faces from the cold cutting wind as they +plodded along, dragging the heavily laden sledges; but they seemed +cheerful enough, and treated the numerous frost-bites that appeared on +their cheeks as rather a good joke than anything else. The sun peeped +out for a few moments during the afternoon; but a heavy mist hung over +the land, entirely obscuring it from our view. The floes over which we +travelled to-day were more level than any we had yet crossed, and +infinitely larger; but as a set-off against this, we found the snow very +deep, which rendered the dragging excessively laborious. Few hummocks +adorned the edges of these floes. They appeared to have come into +contact with each other in a most amicable manner, and then immediately +united before any pressure could be exerted, so as to form the immense +hedges of heaped-up masses of ice that have hitherto been our great +bugbear. One floe crossed to-day was estimated at about a mile and +three-quarters in length, and about six miles in circumference. + +_April 23rd._--Progressing but slowly. The travelling was very heavy, +through deep soft snow, and we were delayed considerably by being +obliged to make roads over broad belts of heavy hummocks. + +We camped for the night on the verge of a floe, with enormous hummocks +squeezed up together immediately in front. The prospect of advancing was +not cheering! A S.E. breeze, springing up in the afternoon, sent the +temperature down suddenly to -24°. Our invalids did not appear to be +improving, and we were rather puzzled at some of their symptoms. + +_April 24th._--The greater part of the day was employed in cutting a +road through a perfect sea of hummocks. They appeared to be +interminable. From the highest we could see nothing like a floe, nothing +but an uneven range of massive and shapeless blocks of ice. The +road-making was very hard and _very_ cold work, and the men had to be +relieved pretty often with the tools. + +Skill is of more avail at this sort of work than brute force. A skilled +workman will soon demolish a large hummock, on which a strong but +inexperienced man is wasting all his energy and strength in fruitless +blows. + +We had the satisfaction to-day of crossing the eighty-third parallel of +latitude,[1] and of knowing that we were the first party of men that +had ever reached such a high position. The wind to-day, although +decidedly unpleasant, was of some service, for being from the southward +we were able to make sail on our sledges and thus utilize the otherwise +unwelcome breeze. + +_April 25th._--A beautiful day, but with a low temperature. A slight +breeze from the eastward reminded us that we possessed noses. These +latter appendages have been voted decided nuisances, and could easily be +dispensed with whilst sledging! The travelling to-day was a slight +improvement on our preceding day's work. Indeed at one time we were able +to advance our two light sledges "single banked," that is with their own +individual crews, instead of employing both crews to drag on one sledge +at a time; but this was only for a very short distance. The snow was +very deep and of a tenacious consistency, clinging to the sledge runners +and thereby seriously impeding our progress. So powerful were the rays +of the sun this afternoon that my thermometer, when exposed to them, +rose rapidly from -17° to -3°. At 6 P.M. I observed faint parhelia +showing prismatic colours. We were delayed towards the end of the day by +a broad belt of hummocks, through which a road had to be cut. The large +hummocks passed to-day, although smooth and rounded on the top and on +one side, were precipitous on the other and were fully thirty feet high. +Some of them appeared like isolated fragments in the centre of a floe, +and resembled the large grounded floe-bergs in the vicinity of the +"Alert's" winter quarters. They were undoubtedly portions of the floe +which had been broken off and squeezed up under irresistible pressure. + +_April 26th._--Temperature to-day as high as -2°. For the first time, +since we have been away, were we able thoroughly to enjoy our lunch. On +account of the increased warmth, our bacon was more palateable, and we +could throw our wearied forms on the soft snow and discuss our pint of +tea without running the risk of having our toes frost-bitten. The +sensation of possessing feet was a novel and delightful one. Several of +the men have of late been attacked by violent bleedings of the nose; but +this, in all probability, is due to the rise of temperature. No +improvement in our travelling--still the same old story--hummocks and +snow-drifts, snow-drifts and hummocks. So dense were the latter that, +when we halted for the night, it really seemed as if we had arrived at +"the end of all things;" for in front of us was an apparently impassable +sea of hummocks extending north, east, and west as far as the range of +vision. A dismal prospect, indeed! But we did not despair, and still +hoped we might cut our way through these obstacles, and emerge upon +floes along which we should have little difficulty in advancing. + +_April 27th._--A hard day's work! Road-makers incessantly employed, and +the sledges "double banked" the whole day, progress being necessarily +slow. Our invalids showed no signs of amendment, indeed two others +exhibited symptoms of the same disease; for such it appears to be. + +Another great misfortune that happened was that both our shovels came to +grief--the handles breaking off at the junction between the wood and +iron. We, however, succeeded in "fishing" and thus rendering them +serviceable. We should be in a sorry plight if any accident happened to +our pickaxes as well as to our shovels. As an instance of the amount of +walking we had to perform, I may mention that to-day I had, of +necessity, to cross the same floe, on which the snow was knee-deep, no +less than thirteen times, "and didn't I hate that blackguard floe!" + +_April 28th._--The temperature actually rose as high as +2°! This is the +first day that we have registered the thermometer above zero! It is a +decided improvement. + +Last night, inside my tent, the temperature was as high as 33°, and, in +spite of a hard day's work, we were all busily employed, after supper +was over, in some way or another. A couple were splicing lanyards in +their drag-belts; one was tailoring; another repairing his moccasins; +one was darning his mitts, and another patching up his stockings with an +old blanket wrapper; whilst I was both reading aloud and dressing and +bandaging my patients' legs. All were smoking except myself. The effect +in a small confined tent may be imagined! + +Two of the men, who are not tobacco smokers, smoked what they called +"herb" tobacco, which diffused a rather pleasing aroma, and served to +deaden the unpleasantness of the tobacco smoke. It is composed of +various dried aromatic herbs, and is, I believe, recommended by the +faculty for many disorders. + +The travelling was as bad as ever--through heavy hummocks and deep +snow-drifts. We had the misfortune to capsize the sledge, on which was +one of the invalids; but a slight delay was the only inconvenience +caused. The weather in the afternoon became very thick, making it +extremely difficult to select a route. Everything was of one uniform +colour: above, below, behind, and before; all was alike, and it was +quite impossible to tell whether we were going up or down hill until a +fall would inform us of the fact. To our great surprise, this evening, +we came across the traces of a hare in the soft snow. They were +apparently recent, and travelling in a southerly direction. The little +creature was evidently very tired, as the footsteps appeared to be close +together. Poor Pussy! it must have wandered out on the floe and lost +itself, for we were quite seventeen miles from the nearest land. I have +no doubt, if we had followed up the track, that we should have found the +poor little animal lying dead or exhausted under some hummock, famished +for want of food. + +_April 29th._--Small floes surrounded with high hummocks and covered +with deep snow, were still encountered, with occasionally a short lead +on some young ice that we sometimes met twining round the larger floes. +It was difficult to account for the presence of so much young ice, and I +can only suggest that, after the disruption in the summer, the pack +remained some length of time in a quiescent state, and so allowed the +young ice to form between the floes; for if once in motion, no ice of a +single season's formation could withstand the tremendous pressure that +would be exerted by these stupendous floes, but must inevitably be +pulverized and broken up into small fragments. Our wretched cook last +night made our tea and cooked our pemmican with the water obtained from +salt-water ice. We all in consequence suffered from intense thirst, +without being able to obtain anything to alleviate it. + +_April 30th._--After halting last night the wind freshened into a gale, +the clouds thickened, and snow began to fall heavily, and this +continued all day without intermission, so much so that we were unable +to make a start. It was impossible to see the length of the sledge +ahead, and, surrounded as we were by hummocks, it would have been folly +to have attempted a move. We consoled ourselves by saying that the rest +would do us good, and that the invalids more especially would benefit by +it. + + +FOOTNOTE: + + [1] By the Act of Parliament (58 Geo. III. cap. xx.) passed in 1818, + a reward of £1000 was assigned to any one who should cross the + latitude of 83° N. But in 1828 this Act for the encouragement of + Polar discovery was repealed by 9 Geo. IV. cap. lxvi. + + + + +CHAPTER XXIII. + +THE MOST NORTHERN POINT EVER REACHED BY MAN. + + + "And here on snows, where never human foot + Of common mortal trod, we nightly tread + And leave no traces, o'er the savage sea, + The glassy ocean of the mountain ice; + We skim its rugged breakers, which put on + The aspect of a tumbling tempest's foam + Frozen in a moment." + + BYRON. + +_May 1st._--A fine sunny morning ushered in the month of May, all the +more appreciated in consequence of the enforced idleness of the +preceding day. The bright sun had a wonderful effect upon us all. It +seemed to cheer and invigorate our spirits, whilst it stimulated us to +renewed exertions in our endeavours to reach as high a northern latitude +as possible. Our invalids, however, were very faint and weak. They +exhibited no favourable symptoms of improvement, and were a great clog +and drawback to our progress. With our diminished crews we found it hard +work to drag the sledges over the rough hummocky road, and through the +deep soft snow-drifts that were constantly met. Road-making became a +necessary part of the daily routine. Floes of any extent were rarely +seen, and we had to thread our way through a perfect labyrinth of +piled-up masses of ice, with little or no prospect of its improving. It +was a dreary and wild-looking scene: no living thing in sight but our +own little party, no colour or object to relieve the eye; nothing but a +chaotic and illimitable sea of ice. Sometimes a fog was observed +gradually rolling itself towards us, like a large mantle, until we were +completely enveloped in its dense folds; when, continuing its onward +course, it would roll as rapidly away, leaving a bright luminous band +stretching across the horizon in the direction whence it had come. + +_May 2nd._--Although we had been told that there was not the slightest +chance of our being attacked with scurvy, still, from the utter +prostration of our invalids, combined with other symptoms, we were +almost inclined to believe that we were really afflicted with this dire +and wasting disease. It was a terrible idea that forced itself upon us, +and one that we were loath to indulge in; but we feared that the +symptoms pointed unmistakeably to the fact that this fearful disease, so +dreaded by the mariners of old, was gradually but surely laying its hand +upon us, completely prostrating those it attacked and rendering them +helpless from pain and exhaustion. Parr and myself spoke of it only when +we were by ourselves, as we considered it of the utmost importance that +the men should remain in ignorance as long as possible, and not even +suspect the nature of the disease which had crippled so many of their +number. Swollen joints and discolouration of the skin, attended with +faintness and great weakness, were the principal symptoms. Great as were +the natural difficulties which surrounded us, still, should our surmise +be correct, we could not but regard this as the most formidable of all +obstacles to our advance that could possibly be imagined. Our only hope +was that the five men now afflicted might, through their habits or +disposition, have been more prone to the attacks of this insidious +disease, than the remainder of our party, who, we hoped, might escape +scathless. We camped this evening amidst a pile of hummocks, after one +of the hardest day's work we have yet performed. So rough was the road +and so deep was the snow that the sledges could only be advanced by +"standing pulls." This was disheartening, for we had all been cherishing +the hope that as we advanced northwards we should find larger and more +level floes and less snow; the reverse, however, was the case. Several +times did one or other of us disappear through deep rents in the floe, +but we always succeeded in scrambling up again unhurt. + +_May 3rd._--A dull, dark, foggy day rendered it extremely difficult to +select our road, and we were occasionally compelled to unload the +sledges before they could be dragged through the deep soft snow-drifts +which were continually met across our route, making the work all the +more hard and distressing. The fog persistently hung over us all day; +but was not sufficiently dense to retard our progress altogether, though +it materially increased our labours and augmented our difficulties. + +_May 4th._--Everything appeared to combine against us: weather, snow +ice, and sickness! In spite of these evils our tents were struck and a +start made; but after advancing for half a mile, which took us exactly +three and a half hours to accomplish, we arrived at such a confused heap +of hummocks that, with the dense fog prevailing and the falling snow, +it was impossible to make any headway. To persevere would have been +imprudent. The tents were accordingly pitched, and we consoled ourselves +by saying that the rest would be productive of much good to our sick +companions, for even those that had to be carried on the sledges could +get no rest whilst being dragged and jolted and sometimes capsized over +the roughest road imaginable. After lunch, the weather clearing a +little, we employed ourselves in cutting a road through an amorphous +conglomeration of ice for quite three-quarters of a mile. The pack over +which we were travelling appeared to consist of numerous small floes, +the largest being barely one hundred yards across at its widest +diameter, but the majority much smaller, and each of these floes was +surrounded by a mass of hummocks piled up and lying one on top of the +other to the height of twenty and thirty feet: the belts of hummocks +being from thirty to forty yards in breadth. + +Observing one large hummock to be very much discoloured, we found, on +approach, that this discolouration was caused by the adhesion of mud or +clay, a line of which extended for some distance along the edge of the +floe, and gave one the idea that it had rubbed against, or in some +manner had come into contact with, the shore. Mud it undoubtedly was, +and we bottled a quantity of it for the purpose of subjecting it to +microscopic investigation when we should return on board. This was +conclusive evidence that a periodical, if not an annual, disruption of +the pack occurs, and that these floes, although now at such a distance +from the land, had at some time or another been in very close +proximity. Moreover, this must have occurred at a recent date, +otherwise the summer thaws and the autumn snow would have obliterated +all such traces as those we had discovered. + +_May 5th._--The weather was still as thick as pea-soup! However, we were +able to avail ourselves of the road that we had constructed yesterday, +and moved our camp so far. To do this, although the road was fairly good +and the distance only three-quarters of a mile, the time occupied was +four and a half hours! The scene that surrounded our encampment was a +dreary one indeed--a desolate, cold, and inhospitable scene: everything +of the same uniform colour; no object to relieve the eye; no signs of +life; nothing to break the stillness and solitude of this waste of snow +and ice. Surely Shelley must have contemplated such a scene when he +wrote the following lines: + + "Those wastes of frozen billows that were hurled + By everlasting snow-storms round the Poles, + Where matters dared not vegetate nor live, + But ceaseless frost round the vast solitude + Bound the broad zone of stillness." + +It was a relief, indeed, to turn from such a scene, and rest the eye +upon our little encampment, while listening to the cheerful voices of +our men, as, oblivious to hardship and suffering, they sat "yarning," in +their tents, and relating to each other their adventures in other parts +of the globe. To our great satisfaction and comfort the temperature was +at, or about, zero all day, and for the first time, since leaving the +ship, we were able to eat our bacon without in the first place thawing +it in our tea! + +_May 6th._--A fine, bright day; but the rest of yesterday had produced +no beneficial results. Our invalids were gradually getting worse; even +those who were apparently in good health complained of aching limbs, and +exhibited some of the first symptoms of those who were already ailing. +Four of the men had also been suffering for the last few days from snow +blindness, though not in a severe form. A suger of lead lotion afforded +them great relief, and acted as a cure. We had been so far extremely +fortunate in our comparative exemption from this painful and irritating +affliction. We must attribute our immunity from it to the constant use +of our snow-goggles, which were never taken off until the time of +"bagging!" + +In getting under weigh in the morning, and also when we are encamping, +the sick men cause us no little delay; for they are perfectly helpless, +and require assistance in every little detail connected with their +dressing and undressing, being totally incapacitated from doing anything +themselves. + +The travelling was very heavy. We appeared to have arrived at a perfect +barrier of hummocks, with portions of large floes intermixed, all broken +and squeezed up together and covered with deep snow. As far as reaching +a high latitude was concerned, we might as well have turned back at +once, for our advance must needs be slow; but it was not impossible that +this sea of hummocks, with which we were contending, might be the limit +of our rough road, and that if we could succeed in struggling through +them for a few miles, we might emerge upon large and level floes on +which we should be able to travel with greater ease and celerity. +Possibly the rugged nature of the ice might be due to the junction of +two tides, which, from the commotion produced, would create the +obstacles that were impeding our progress. After halting for the night, +a party of men were employed road-making whilst the tents were being +pitched and supper preparing. All were very glad to get into their bags +and rest after the fatigues of the day. A slight air from the S.E. sent +the temperature down rapidly to 11° below zero. The minus quantities +still prevailed. + +_May 7th._--We started this morning carrying three of our invalids; but +before we had gone many yards it became painfully evident that the two +others were quite unable to walk, although the gallant fellows struggled +along manfully. + +Our only resource was to advance the sledges and then return with them +empty to bring on the other disabled sufferers. We had now a third of +our little band _hors de combat_, our strength was diminishing daily, +and our weights on the sledges in consequence were increasing. The +travelling appeared to be getting, if possible, worse; the hummocks were +higher and the snow-drifts deeper. One of the former, on being measured +by means of a lead line, was found to be, from the top of the floe to +its summit, forty-three feet three inches. + +We halted earlier than usual, and, having constructed a pedestal for the +magnetic instrument out of solid snow, obtained a series of observations +for the inclination of the needle and for the total magnetic force. + +_May 8th._--We at length forced ourselves to believe that the disease +from which our men were suffering was really scurvy. We issued to those +who were afflicted daily allowances of lime-juice from the small stock +that we brought away with us. + +But it was with the utmost difficulty that a small allowance for each +could be thawed. The lime-juice was in two bottles. On putting one near +the cooking apparatus to thaw, the bottle cracked and fell to pieces. At +last I adopted the plan of placing the other bottle between my legs when +in the sleeping-bag, and, after a long time, I succeeded in thawing a +small quantity. But it is now known that this was of no use; for the +state of the lime-juice used by Dr. Coppinger at Polaris Bay showed that +the whole volume must be thawed and remixed before it can be used with +any advantage. This can only be done in the warmer weather of June or +July. + +The loss of appetite, depression of spirits, with other symptoms were, +we thought, decidedly scorbutic, and we feared, without fresh meat and +vegetables, that there was little chance of seeing the sick men on the +drag-ropes again during the journey. Being a fine, bright day, the +invalids were made to come out and bask in the sun, whilst the rest of +the party, with pickaxes and shovels, were engaged in cutting a road +through the hummocks. A double series of magnetic observations were +obtained, together with sights for latitude, longitude, and variation of +the compass. The hummocks amongst which our tents were pitched were of +various heights and bulk, from small fragments of ice to huge piles over +forty feet high. Some of them consisted of a number of small hummocks +squeezed up into one large mass, whilst others were apparently the +regular floe-bergs, and, although perhaps of greater bulk, were not +quite so high. + +Between these hummocks, and consequently along the only road where we +could drag our sledges, the snow had accumulated in drifts to a great +depth, and this, formed into ridges by the wind, rendered the travelling +all the more difficult. Occasionally the tops of these ridges were +frozen hard, and it was of no uncommon occurrence to step from deep +snow, through which we were floundering up to our waists, on to a hard, +frozen piece, or _vice versâ_. + +Sometimes these ridges were only partially frozen, or covered with a +slight crust, just hard enough _not_ to bear our weights, and this made +it exceedingly disagreeable and laborious to travel over. + +_May 9th._--Another beautifully warm day, with the temperature only a +degree or two below zero! It was impossible to remain idle on such a +day, so we resolved to push on. + +Lightening two of the sledges of about half their loads, two of the sick +men were placed on them, and these were dragged to the limit of the road +made yesterday. Here the tent was pitched, the two invalids placed +inside, the sledge unpacked and dragged back. In this manner we +succeeded in advancing during the day a distance of about three-quarters +of a mile; but so tortuous was our road, and so often had it to be +traversed, that to accomplish this short distance we had to walk about +seven miles, and this through very deep snow. Rawlings, Simpson, and +Ferbrache were complaining of aching limbs, and their legs exhibited +slight discolouration. + +_May 10th._--We advanced the sledges in the same manner as yesterday, +accomplishing about the same distance; but so distressing was it to see +the exertions of the men in their endeavours to perform a good day's +work, and so painful was it to witness the sufferings of the sick, that +I very reluctantly came to the conclusion that our camp this evening +must be our most northern one. With five of my little force disabled, +and as many more showing decided scorbutic symptoms, it would have been +imprudent to persevere farther, however much inclination might prompt +such a proceeding. Besides, our provisions must be taken into +consideration, and we had only thirty days left to take us back a +distance that occupied us forty days to advance, so that our turning +back became an imperative necessity. We might, I think, console +ourselves with the knowledge that the motto engraved on my flagstaff, +and which had been presented to me by my friend and former Captain, now +Commodore A. H. Hoskins, had been fully carried out. It was happily +chosen, and although the lines are expressed in the first personal +pronoun they had reference to the whole party: + + "I dare do all that may become a man: + Who dares do more is none." + +We felt that the absence of any greater success could not be attributed +either to a lack of energy or of perseverence. It was, however, a bitter +ending to all our aspirations, for which even the knowledge of being +homeward bound failed to compensate. In justice to my brave companions I +must say that no men could have done more under the same circumstances. + +_May 11th._--Having arrived at the determination of dragging the sledges +no farther in a northerly direction, I deemed it desirable to try what +good two days' perfect rest would do for our invalids; and, as there +were many useful observations to be taken in this high latitude, I +determined to devote the two following days to obtaining them. As soon +as breakfast was discussed, a snow pedestal was erected for the +instrument for determining the magnetic force and inclination of the +needle, a double series of observations being obtained. Sights were +taken in order to fix our position both by latitude and longitude, and +also for the variation of the compass.[1] + +Some of the men were employed in cutting a hole through young ice that +existed between the hummocks in order that we might obtain deep sea +temperatures with a Casella's thermometer, which we had brought with us +for the purpose. + +In three hours this work was accomplished, the ice being only sixty-four +inches in thickness. On attempting to get soundings, to our great +surprise we succeeded in finding bottom in seventy-one fathoms (four +hundred and twenty-six feet). + +At this depth we managed to obtain, by various contrivances that were +lowered down, a specimen of the bottom, which was carefully bottled, in +order to be carried to the ship, there to undergo microscopic +examination. + +[Illustration: HIGHEST NORTHERN CAMP.] + +Wishing to possess any specimens of animal life that might exist in this +high latitude, a bread bag, filled with the scrapings of our pannikins +and a little pemmican, was lowered to the bottom, and, having been kept +there some hours, was hauled up, and to our great joy found to be almost +alive with numerous small crustaceans[2] and foraminifera; specimens +of which were, of course, collected and preserved, being the most +northern animal life yet discovered. With our thermometer a series of +temperatures was taken at every ten fathoms, whilst the specific gravity +of the surface water was also obtained. + +Tidal action was apparent; but, with the means at our disposal, we were +unable to observe the rise and fall of the tide, or to make any accurate +measurement regarding it. Altogether the day was not unprofitably spent. + +_May 12th._--This 12th of May must always be regarded as an eventful day +in the lives of our little party, for it was that on which we had the +honour, and no small gratification, of planting the Union Jack on the +most northern limit of the globe ever attained by civilized man, or, in +fact, so far as our knowledge goes, by mortal man! In order to insure +being within four hundred miles of the North Pole, we started +immediately after breakfast to the northward, carrying with us the +sextant, artificial horizon, and all our colours and banners. We were a +party of ten,[3] two men being left behind to attend to the wants of the +five who were sick, and who were left comfortably settled inside the +tents. + +The walking was undoubtedly severe, at one moment struggling through +deep snow-drifts, in which we floundered up to our waists, and at +another tumbling about amongst the hummocks. + +Some idea may be formed of the difficulties of the road, when, after +more than two hours' hard walking, with little or nothing to carry, we +had barely accomplished one mile! + +Shortly before noon a halt was called, the artificial horizon set up, +and the flags and sledge standards displayed. Fortunately the sun was +favourable to us, and we were able to obtain a good altitude as it +passed the meridian, although almost immediately afterwards dark clouds +rolled up, snow began to fall, and the sun was lost in obscurity. + +We found the latitude to be 83° 20´ 26´´ N., or three hundred and +ninety-nine miles and a half from the North Pole. The announcement of +our position was received with three cheers, with one more for Captain +Nares; then all sang the "Union Jack of Old England," our "Grand +Palæocrystic Sledging Chorus," winding up, like loyal subjects, with +"God save the Queen." + +No words of mine could describe the scene that surrounded us better than +those of Coleridge in his "Ancient Mariner": + + "The ice was here, the ice was there, + The ice was all around." + +For nought else but snow and ice could be seen in any direction. + +In spite, however, of these dreary surroundings, suggesting everything +that was desolate and miserable, mirth, happiness, and joy seemed to +reign paramount amongst our little party. Perhaps there was something +in the idea of having been farther north than any other man had hitherto +penetrated, that promoted such feelings! Whatever produced them, they +were shared in by all. Even the sick, on our return to camp, prostrate +and suffering as they were, participated in the general hilarity and +rejoicing. They knew their toilsome journey had terminated, and that +each day would bring them nearer to their ship and to those supplies +that were necessary to save their lives. + +On returning to the tents, a magnum of whiskey, kindly sent by the "Dean +of Dundee," for the express purpose of being drunk at our highest +northern position, was broached, and for supper we had divided amongst +the two sledge crews a hare that had been shot by Dr. Moss on the third +day after leaving the ship. Could men in our position want more? Never +were the bones of a hare picked so clean! No dog would have benefited +much from the scraps remaining from our repast! + +Absent friends were duly toasted, and the evening was brought to a close +with songs, in which even the invalids joined. All appeared happy, +cheerful, and contented. + + +FOOTNOTES: + + [1] The original from which the annexed illustration is a copy, was + painted by Admiral R. B. Beechey, and exhibited in the Royal Academy + in 1877. It is now in the possession of Mr. Clements Markham. + + [2] _Anonyx nugax_, a fine adult male example, and several smaller + ones. The length of the largest specimen is 1½ inch. This species is + one of the commonest and most abundantly distributed of the northern + _Amphipoda_. It was discovered by Captain Phipps in 1773, and is + found along the shores of Arctic America, in the White Sea, on the + coasts of Greenland, Iceland, Spitzbergen, Norway, and in the Sea of + Okhotsk. + + [3] The names of these men are--Commander A. H. Markham, Lieutenant + A. A. C. Parr, Thos. Rawlings, Ed. Lawrence, John Radmore, Thos. + Jolliffe, Daniel Harley, Wm. Ferbrache, Wm. Maskell, and John + Pearson. + + + + +CHAPTER XXIV. + +RETURN OF THE NORTHERN DIVISION. + + + "Is not short payne well borne, that brings long ease, + And layes the soule to sleepe in quiet grace? + Sleepe after toyle, port after stormie seas, + Ease after warre, death after life, does greatly please." + + _Faërie Queene._ + +At three o'clock on the afternoon of the 13th of May the homeward march +was commenced, our main object, of course, being to get back to the ship +as speedily as possible. + +Before starting, a couple of records, inclosed in two tin cases, were +deposited on the floe. One was placed as near the centre of the floe as +possible, the other was secured on the top of a hummock. + +On the records was stated the latitude and longitude of the position, +together with a few words regarding the condition of the party. If these +are ever picked up it will be very interesting and important, as +throwing light on the drift or tide in these high latitudes. + +It is unnecessary to describe the incidents that occurred on each +successive day during the return journey. Day by day did our strength +diminish. Gradually, but surely, the men, one after the other, began to +feel the cruel grasp of the disease, as they struggled manfully on, +dragging their poor, helpless companions, in spite of racking pains and +aching limbs. Although themselves attacked by the dreadful malady, the +men who were still able to work suppressed their own sufferings in their +endeavours to ameliorate those of their more helpless and ailing +comrades. Unmindful of their own miserable plight, they devoted +themselves to the tender and soothing functions of nurses with a +thoughtful and careful tenderness that would have done credit even to +those of the weaker sex. + +Often had the same road to be traversed, as the sledges were advanced +one at a time, and most fortunate was it that we were able to adhere to +the road constructed during our outward journey. To do so, however, +during the thick weather which constantly prevailed, was a task of great +difficulty and very trying to the eyes; but we knew that if by ill-luck +we should wander away and lose it, our chances of ever seeing the ship +again would be poor indeed! The hours selected for travelling were +between 6 P.M. and 6 A.M. By choosing this part of the day, or rather +night, for working, we kept the sun as much as possible at our backs, +and slept during the warmth of the day. Towards the end of May, although +the temperature of the outside air was below the freezing point, the sun +was so powerful that it would raise the temperature inside our tent, +whilst we were sleeping, to as much as 70° or 80°, which would be quite +unbearable! Frost-bites had become a thing of the past, and were no +longer dreaded. The temperature did not rise above the freezing point +until the month of June. + +Snow fell heavily during the greater part of the return journey, and +fogs were very prevalent. Gales of wind had to be endured, for to halt +was out of the question--rest there was none--onward was the order of +the day. + +As the disease gradually assumed the mastery over the party, so did the +appetites decrease, and in a very alarming manner, until it was with the +greatest difficulty that anybody could be induced to eat at all. Instead +of each man disposing of one pound of pemmican a day, the same quantity +sufficed for the entire party in one tent; and even this, occasionally, +was not consumed. Nor was the subject of eating and drinking so often +discussed. During the outward journey, beefsteaks and onions, mutton +chops and new potatoes, and Bass's beer formed the chief topics of +conversation. On the return journey they were scarcely alluded to. +Hunger was never felt; but we were all assailed by an intolerable +thirst, which could only be appeased at meal times, or after the +temperature was sufficiently high to admit of quenching our thirst by +putting icicles into our mouths. + +Aching bones and sleepless nights were the chief causes of our +sufferings. + +With all these hardships it was a great comfort to be able to put on dry +foot gear. If it was fine when we encamped, our blanket wrappers and +hose were spread out on the tent in the sun, so that when we got up they +were not only dry, but _not frozen_, and were, therefore, limp and +supple! + +On the 17th of May we again, strange to say, crossed the track of a +hare, being at the time about twenty-five miles from the nearest land. +Like the track before seen, the footsteps were close together, +indicating that the poor little creature was in a very exhausted state. +Although the traces were very indistinct, they appeared to be going in a +northerly direction. + +Though our travelling was slow, we could see a perceptible decrease in +the distance between ourselves and the land, whenever the weather was +fine enough for us to observe it. "Old Joe," as the men irreverently +termed Cape Joseph Henry, loomed nearer and darker, and we all regarded +it with anxious, longing eyes. + +On the 18th of May the first icicles were observed hanging from the +edges of a few hummocks--a sure sign of the returning power of the sun. + +Ominous symptoms of a disruption of the pack were seen on the same day, +and again on the following one. A crack in some ice had opened +considerably since we last passed over it, whilst small hummocks had +been formed by the pressure of two floes, one against the other. These +little indications made matters assume a still more serious aspect. They +may have been due to tidal action, but they were undoubtedly warnings to +get off the pack as speedily as possible. + +On the 20th the snow crystals that fell actually melted on coming into +contact with our clothes or any dark substance. These crystals were all +of a beautiful stellar shape. A hummock passed, although composed, +apparently, of one piece of ice, was of two different colours, a deep +blue and a pale yellow. Portions of each were broken off for the purpose +of testing their respective specific gravities, and also to carry back +to the ship for analysis. In all probability the discolouration was +caused by the presence of diatomaceæ. The hummocks, at about this date, +began to assume a different appearance, the mild weather depriving them +of their snowy covering, and causing them to lose much of their former +resemblance to gigantic wedding cakes! + +The men began to have an inkling of the nature of the disease from which +they were suffering, although we studiously avoided all mention of it. +It went with them by the name of the "Joseph Henry mange!" Their spirits +were wonderful, and they joked each other as they hobbled along. Their +lameness they called the "Marco Polo limp," and declared on their return +to England they would introduce it as the fashionable gait! + +Nothing appeared to subdue their courage or their zeal. Orders were +always executed with the utmost willingness and good humour, and with as +much alacrity as they were capable of evincing. + +The men having heard that tea-leaves had been recommended as a good +_vegetable_, the contents of the tea-kettle, after lunch and supper, +were carefully collected, and devoured with avidity; but there is little +faith, I fear, to be placed in their efficacy for warding off or +subduing our terrible complaint. + +Instead of our sledge loads appearing to diminish in weight as the +provisions were consumed, they seemed to drag heavier, and we were at a +loss whether to attribute this to the depth and softness of the snow +over which we travelled, or to the increasing weakness of our party! It +was hard work, and as much as we could do to make any progress at all. +The men experienced great difficulty in moving their legs, the slightest +exertion caused intense pain, and it was a piteous sight to witness +them struggling bravely on, without uttering a murmur or complaint. +They all knew that their only hope of safety was to get back to the ship +as speedily as possible. + +The 24th of May being the Queen's birthday, all the flags and banners +were displayed during the short time we halted for lunch, and her +Majesty's health was drunk by her most northern and not least loyal +subjects. On that day, amongst the entire party, we could only muster +four and a half good and sound pairs of legs! Still even those with +"game legs" stuck to the drag-ropes nobly, and if they were unable to +render much assistance, still the drag-ropes acted as a support, and +therefore enabled them to keep up. + +On the 25th the eighty-third parallel of latitude was recrossed. + +The comparatively high temperature caused the snow over which we +journeyed to assume a "sludgy" consistency, which clung tenaciously to +our legs and to the sledge runners, rendering the work of dragging and +walking all the more laborious. + +On the 27th the condition of the party was so critical that it became +only too painfully evident that, to insure their reaching the land +alive, the sledges must be considerably lightened in order to admit of a +more rapid advance. The state of the party was on that day as follows: +five men were in a very precarious condition, utterly unable to move, +and consequently had to be carried on the sledges; five others nearly as +bad, but who nobly persisted in hobbling after the sledges, which they +could just manage to accomplish, for, as the sledges had to be advanced +one by one, it gave them plenty of time to perform the distance; whilst +three others exhibited all the premonitory scorbutic symptoms. Thus only +the two officers and two men[1] could be considered as effective! This +was, it must be acknowledged, a very deplorable state of affairs. + +I therefore decided to abandon the remaining boat, which would +materially lessen the load to be dragged. This decision was only arrived +at after long and anxious consideration. I had to decide which was the +lesser of two evils. + +For I well knew that should a disruption of the pack occur, and we had +already observed ominous signs of such an event, without a boat the +party would indeed be placed in a hopeless position; but again I knew +that in retaining the boat, the weights to be dragged by our weakened +crew would be so excessive as to preclude the possibility of reaching +the shore before all the provisions would be expended, and starvation +would be the result. Again it was of the utmost importance that haste +should be made in order to reach the ship, and place the sick under +proper medical treatment. The disease was extending so rapidly as to +produce a marked change for the worse every day. The boat, therefore, +and all superfluous weights were abandoned, and the march was again +wearily resumed. + +Many a silent prayer was offered up to God to protect and watch over us, +for we felt, indeed, that we were in dire distress, and that without His +aid and assistance we must perish; and we prayed for strength to enable +us to drag our poor helpless and suffering companions to a place of +safety. A record was left in the deserted boat, containing a brief +account of our state and condition, with the latitude and longitude +where it was abandoned. + +[Illustration: SNOW BUNTING] + +On the following day great excitement was caused by the appearance of a +snow bunting, which was seen fluttering about amongst the hummocks, +uttering its sweet and pleasant chirp, which to us was the most pleasing +music we had heard for many a long day. No wonder the sudden appearance +amongst us of this little warbler was so interesting, for it was the +first bird we had seen for nine long months. Even the invalids, as they +lay on the sledges, requested that they might have their faces +uncovered, so as both to see and hear the little friend that had flown +off to us, as if it were a messenger to welcome our party back to life +and friends. Long and anxiously was it watched as it winged its course +towards the land, whither we also were slowly wending our way. + +On the 29th the colours were again displayed at lunch time, in +commemoration of the first anniversary of our sailing from England, and +allusions were made to that ever-memorable day, comparisons being drawn +between our condition then and now! On that evening our tents were +pitched close to the boat that we had abandoned on our outward journey, +and which we found exactly in the same state as when we left it, with +its mast stepped and yard hoisted, standing out like a grim sentinel +guarding those icy wastes. + +On the 31st, whilst crossing some young ice between two heavy floes, one +of the sledges broke through, and we had no little trouble in saving it +from complete immersion, and the invalid who was on it from being +drowned! These warnings were unmistakeable, and pointed to the necessity +of reaching the land as quickly as possible. The falling snow and drift +thawed upon our clothes, making us wet and extremely wretched and +uncomfortable. + +On the 1st of June the temperature was some two or three degrees above +freezing point. This had the effect of thawing the surface snow and +converting it into a thick sludge. Our foot gear in consequence was in a +soaking wet state. Our working force on this day was reduced to six, and +all suffering more or less. + +On the 2nd the thick weather, which had so persistently clung to us, +proved triumphant and robbed us of our road. Up to this date we had been +able to avail ourselves of the road constructed with so much trouble and +labour on our outward journey. On this day we wandered off it, and in +spite of our efforts were unable to pick up the trail again. The severe +and monotonous labour of road-making had again to be resorted to. On the +5th, to our very great joy, we succeeded once more in pitching our camp +on _terra firma_, after an absence from it of two months. On first +landing our hopes were excited on observing the recent traces of a +sledge and human footprints, and we congratulated ourselves upon soon +obtaining that relief we all so much required; but we were doomed to +disappointment, for on reaching the depôt of provisions established near +Cape Joseph Henry for our use, and which was found intact, we learnt +that a sledge party with Captain Nares had left for the ship only two +days previously! This was a bitter blow, for we knew that something more +than provisions was needed for the safety of the party. + +We learnt also that scurvy had made its appearance on board the "Alert," +and that poor Petersen died from the effects of his last sledge journey, +on the 14th of May. + +Three hares had been kindly and thoughtfully left for us in a crevice +amongst the hummocks by Captain Nares, and this furnished us with meals +for a couple of days; it is needless to add, they were done ample +justice to, not only for the sake of their goodness and the change they +afforded, but also because we thought the fresh meat would act as a +specific against the scurvy. + +The tracks of a wolf were observed near the depôt, and the animal was +frequently heard howling in a mournful manner, but we never saw it. + +Obtaining a few supplies from the depôt, our march was again resumed; +but so rapid had been the encroachments of the disease, that it was +only too palpable that immediate succour was absolutely necessary for +our salvation. At the rate of progress we were making, it would take us +fully three weeks to reach the ship, although only forty miles distant; +and who would there be left in three weeks' time? The few who were still +strong enough to drag the sledges would barely last as many days! +Assistance had, therefore, to be obtained. To procure it, one amongst us +was ready and willing to set out on this lonely and solitary mission, +with the firm reliance of being able to accomplish what he had +undertaken, and with the knowledge that he possessed the full confidence +of those for whose relief he was about to start on a long and hazardous +walk. On the 7th of June Lieut. Parr started on his arduous march to the +ship. Deep and heartfelt were the God-speeds uttered as he took his +departure, and anxiously was his retreating form watched until it was +gradually lost to sight amidst the interminable hummocks. + + "All waste! no sign of life + But the track of the wolf and the bear! + No sound but the wild, wild wind, + And the snow crunching under his feet." + +Although the loss of one strong man, like Parr, from the party was +seriously felt, still the knowledge that active steps had been taken to +procure aid was sufficient to compensate for this reduction in our +strength, and the men gallantly persevered at the drag-ropes, buoyed up +by renewed hopes. + +On the day previous to that on which Parr left, an Eskimo dog, to our +great surprise, was seen threading its way to us through the hummocks. +It was soon recognized to be one of our dogs, named Flo; but she was so +timid that at first nothing would induce her to approach. After a little +time, however, we coaxed her to us, and on having some pemmican thrown +to her she ate it ravenously. Poor thing! she was wretchedly thin and +emaciated; she, we concluded, had been cast adrift, or made her escape +from the last dog-sledge that visited this neighbourhood. She joined our +tail of cripples, hobbling, like them, after us and carefully walking in +the track of our sledges. + +On the 8th of June sadness and despondency prevailed amongst our little +band. One of our number had received that summons to which all must at +some time attend, and had been called to his long account. + + "His soul to Him who gave it rose. + God led it to its long repose-- + Its glorious rest." + +This was a terrible and unexpected blow to many who regarded themselves +as being in a still more critical and precarious condition than was poor +Porter. His end was calm and peaceful, and he retained his senses to +within five minutes of the time of dissolution. + +Sad and mournful, indeed, was the small procession that wended its way +slowly to the new-made grave, dug out of a frozen soil, carrying the +lifeless remains of their comrade, covered with the Union Jack, on the +same sledge on which he had been dragged, whilst alive, for many weeks; +and there, with the tears trickling down their weather-beaten and +smoke-begrimed faces, with their hearts so full as to choke all +utterance, they laid their late fellow-sufferer in his last +resting-place. + +A rude cross, improvised out of the rough materials that our own +equipment supplied, with a brief inscription, marks the lone and dreary +spot in that far-off icy desert where rests our comrade in his long +sleep that knows no waking, and where probably human foot will never +again tread. + + "O World! so few the years we live, + Would that the life that thou dost give + Were life indeed! + Alas! thy sorrows fall so fast, + Our happiest hour is when at last + The soul is freed." + +Gladly, after the ceremony was concluded, was the order to renew the +march received, every one being desirous of quitting a place so fraught +with sad and melancholy associations; the day, as if in unison with the +state of our own thoughts and feelings, was dull and gloomy. + +The late mournful event produced a despondency in our little band to +which we had hitherto been strangers. + +One and all felt and knew that assistance, to be of any avail, must +arrive speedily, and many a wistful glance was directed towards the +south, in the faint hope of seeing that succour without which they would +surely perish. They felt more their own weakness and helplessness, and +dreaded a recurrence of what had recently taken place. The journey was +silently and wearily resumed. + +As many of the men were unable to eat their pemmican, on account of the +soreness of their gums, and from a certain dislike that they had lately +taken to it, a new "dish" was tried, consisting of preserved potatoes +mixed with bacon fat, and although in flavour, if any was perceptible, +it rather resembled what starch might be like, it was decidedly +acceptable as a change, and each person consumed about two-thirds of a +pannikin. + +On the morning of the 9th a rainbow was seen, which, being an unusual +sight, afforded much interest. On the same day, shortly after the march +had been commenced, a moving object was suddenly seen amidst the +hummocks to the southward. At first it was regarded as an optical +illusion, for we could scarcely realize the fact that it could be +anybody from the "Alert!" With what intense anxiety this object was +regarded is beyond description. + +Gradually emerging from the hummocks, a hearty cheer put an end to the +suspense that was almost agonizing, as a dog-sledge with three men was +seen to be approaching. A cheer in return was attempted, but so full +were our hearts that it resembled more a wail than a cheer. + +It is impossible to describe our feelings as May and Moss came up, and +we received from them a warm and hearty welcome. We felt that we were +saved, and a feeling of thankfulness and gratitude was uppermost in our +minds, as we shook the hands of those who had hurried out to our relief +the moment that Parr had conveyed to them intelligence of our distress. +Those who a few short moments before were in the lowest depths of +despondency, appeared now in the most exuberant spirits. Pain was +disregarded and hardships were forgotten as numerous and varied +questions were asked and answered. + +We heard with delight that they were only the vanguard of a larger +party, headed by Captain Nares himself, that was coming out to our +relief, and which we should probably meet on the following day. A halt +was immediately ordered, cooking utensils lighted up, ice made into +water, and we were soon all enjoying a good pannikin full of lime-juice, +with the prospect of mutton for supper! + +After halting for the night Moss made a thorough medical inspection of +the whole party. His report was by no means cheering: all were more or +less affected, and some were in a very precarious condition. The +presence, however, of a medical officer amongst us restored confidence, +and acted as a powerful antiscorbutic! + +On the following day we met the larger party coming out to our +assistance, and with their help arrived alongside the "Alert" on the +14th of June, seventy-two days after our departure from the ship. + +What a contrast did that departure afford to our return! + +Then, on that bright but cold April morning, all were in the highest +spirits, cheerful and enthusiastic, looking forward with confidence to a +comparatively successful issue to their undertaking--a fine, strong, and +resolute band. + +Alas! how different was the return! Out of that party of fifteen men, +one had gone to his long home, eleven others were carried alongside the +ship on sledges dragged by a party despatched to their relief, and only +the remaining three were capable of walking.[2] Even they were scarcely +able to move one leg before the other, and were, on their return, placed +with the others under the doctor's hands. It was, indeed, a sad and +terrible calamity with which we had been afflicted, totally unexpected +and unparalleled in the annals of Arctic sledging experiences. On our +arrival alongside the ship, we were, of course, most warmly welcomed by +every soul on board; before entering Captain Nares called for three +cheers for our party, and then offered up thanks to Almighty God for +having preserved us through many dangers and privations, and for guiding +us back to our ship without further loss of life. + + +FOOTNOTES: + + [1] John Radmore, chief carpenter's mate, and William Maskell, able + seaman. + + [2] Radmore, Jolliffe, and Maskell. + + + + +CHAPTER XXV. + +RETURN OF ALL THE SLEDGE TRAVELLERS. + + + "Now that the winter's gone, the earth hath lost + Her snow-white robes, and now no more the frost + Candies the grass, or calls an icy cream + Upon the silver lake or crystal stream, + But the warm sun thaws the benumbed earth." + + CAREW. + +The hearty welcome we received from one and all on board the "Alert," +together with the indescribable pleasure of a warm bath, followed by a +champagne supper for those whom the doctor reported well enough to +indulge in such a luxury, made us all supremely happy; the feeling being +increased by the knowledge that our suffering companions were under the +tender care of kind and skilful hands, and that all responsibility +connected with their treatment had, so far as we were concerned, ceased. +Our late hardships and the anxiety we had felt regarding the safe return +of the party were almost forgotten, and were it not for the number of +cots hanging up outside the ward-room, and the row of beds along the +lower deck, each occupied by a sick man, we should almost have felt +inclined to regard our late sledging expedition as a dream from which we +had suddenly been awakened. + +A more thorough break-up of a healthy and strong body of men it would be +difficult to conceive. Not only had the men engaged in the extended +party under my command been attacked with scurvy, but also those who had +been absent from the ship only for short periods, and some, who may be +said never to have left the ship at all, or if they did, only for two or +three days! The disease then could not be attributed to any special +circumstance connected with sledge travelling. + +The seeds must have been sown during the time, nearly five months, that +the sun was absent, and we were in darkness. Fresh animal and vegetable +food is undoubtedly necessary for the preservation of health, and its +absence is the originating cause of scurvy. To this originating cause +all Arctic Expeditions have been equally exposed. The predisposing +causes of scurvy, which actually lead to an outbreak when the +originating cause exists, are the long absence of the sun, entailing +darkness, damp, intense cold, and bad ventilation. To these predisposing +causes our expedition was exposed for a very much longer period than any +other which sent out extended travelling parties. For this reason other +expeditions were exempt from scurvy while we were attacked. In short, +the different result was caused by the difference in latitude. As our +winter arrangements, and our scale of diet, both on board and while +travelling, were identical with those of former expeditions, the cause +of the outbreak could not have had anything to do either with diet or +winter routine. Lime-juice, though most useful in warding off for a time +and delaying an attack of scurvy, and as a cure, will not, with other +circumstances unfavourable, prevent an outbreak. This is the opinion of +all the best medical authorities; and our experience proved it to be an +undoubted fact. Some of our men had scurvy who never left the ship and +never ceased to take their daily rations of lime-juice, and others were +attacked who went away travelling at a time when daily rations of +lime-juice formed a part of the sledge dietary.[1] + +In future, when an expedition winters in so high a latitude as 82° N., +the prevention of an outbreak of scurvy must be secured by improved +measures for mitigating the predisposing causes. + +Owing to the condition of the crew of the "Alert," Captain Nares +publicly announced, on the 16th of June, that on the return of the +sledge parties, he would endeavour to rejoin the "Discovery," and would +then send that vessel to England with all the invalids, and those unfit +to remain out a second winter. The "Alert" would pass her second winter +at Port Foulke, whence, in the ensuing spring, parties would be +despatched for the purpose of exploring Hayes Sound, and the adjacent +land. This work completed, that vessel also would return to England. The +reason that Port Foulke was selected as our future winter quarters was +the amount of animal life, principally reindeer, reported to abound in +that neighbourhood, and we also anticipated little or no difficulty in +breaking out in the following summer. + +This resolution was undoubtedly a wise one, for it was certain that in +the then state of the ship's company of the "Alert," many lives would be +sacrificed if all the men were required to spend another winter in the +Arctic Regions. The idea of soon reaching England acted as a cure upon +those who were in the worst stage of scurvy, and conduced more to their +recovery than all the medicines and careful nursing that they received +from our painstaking and attentive doctor. + +In the mean time great anxiety began to be felt regarding the safety of +the western sledge party under Aldrich. From the wholesale manner in +which the northern division had been afflicted, it was feared that they +also would not pass scathless. + +Still we hoped they would not suffer to the same extent. Their route was +along the coast line, and it was expected that they would have been able +to supply themselves occasionally with fresh provisions, such as hares, +geese, and perhaps musk-oxen. + +On the 18th of June, four days after the return of my party, May, with +three men and the dog-sledge, dragged by our remaining six dogs, left +the ship in order to obtain intelligence of Aldrich's party, and if +necessary to take him relief and assistance. The succeeding days were +anxious ones to all on board, and many were the trips taken to the +summit of Look-out-hill, in the hope of seeing the returning sledgers. +We could not disguise from ourselves the fact that unless they returned +quickly they would be placed in a very critical position. In a few days +they must be without provisions. This we knew. The temperature, too, had +reached freezing point, and frequently stood two or three degrees above +it, causing the surface snow to thaw, and therefore making the task of +dragging a sledge one of severe and unpleasant toil. + +On the 21st the sun reached its highest northern declination, and every +day would bring us nearer to another winter; therefore we knew that to +effect our deliverance from the ice this year, it was necessary to get +our sledging parties on board as soon as possible, in order to prepare +the ship for sea, and to commence the operations requisite for cutting +her out of winter quarters. + +The snow on the hills to the northward of us was rapidly disappearing; +but this might only be due to their southern aspect, for in our +immediate vicinity the snow appeared as deep as ever. Towards the latter +end of May the hills around the ship were perfectly bare; but the heavy +fall of snow, experienced by us during our return journey, had again +covered them as they were during the winter. + +Water began to form in little pools on the floes near the ship, and +every sign betokened the approaching disruption of the pack. On the +23rd, a few king ducks, some Arctic terns, and skuas were seen hovering +about the land, and one or two specimens of the latter were shot--their +skins swelling our natural history collection, their bodies being +reserved for the sick. + +On Sunday, June 25th, immediately after Divine Service, on ascending +Look-out-hill, to our very great delight we observed the wanderers +struggling through the hummocks some six or seven miles off. Hurrying +down to communicate the good news, a relief party was speedily formed, +and by midnight we had the very great satisfaction of receiving them all +on board. It was the old story repeated. All were suffering from scurvy, +and only Aldrich and two men were able to walk alongside the ship, one +of the latter being so bad that he was under medical treatment for many +weeks after his return on board. + +Their absence from the ship extended over a period of eighty-four days, +during which they did very good service, having explored no less than +two hundred and twenty miles of new coast line. May found them near Cape +Joseph Henry, not far from the spot where he had before brought succour +to my party. They were then struggling bravely on, but were in a very +crippled condition. It is most fortunate he succeeded in reaching them +when he did. His cheery spirit and strong help did much to assist them, +and enabled Aldrich to bring his little party alongside their Arctic +home in undiminished numbers. It was a great relief to all on board to +know that every one had returned, that no stragglers were absent. So +great was the anxiety felt until all the sledging parties had arrived, +that the lot of those on board was hardly more enviable than that of the +travellers! + +Our good ship was now converted into a regular hospital, and might +almost be said to be in charge of the medical officers; for those who +were not actually under treatment had to be placed at the disposal of +the doctor, so as to act as nurses, cooks, or attendants of some kind. +Perfect rest and careful nursing were the most essential requisites for +a complete restoration to health. Spenser must have had the recovery of +similar wayworn and stricken travellers in his mind when he wrote-- + + "Now when their wearie limbes with kindly reste + And bodies were refresht with dew repast." + +The medical staff were unremitting in their ceaseless attention to their +patients, and it was to their untiring watchfulness that we owed the +complete recovery of our sick. + +Much had to be done to get the ship ready for sea; but, for some time, +only a few officers and _three_ men could be employed in any work +connected with these preparations, the remainder being engaged entirely +with their duties to the sick. The principal work that had to be done, +before the ice broke up round the ship, was to get on board and stow +away all our powder, besides the provisions and stores that had been +landed before the winter. The housing had long been taken down, and the +upper deck had been partially cleared of snow, so that daylight was once +more admitted through the skylights and illuminators. It is a curious +fact connected with those who were for a long period absent from their +ship, that the hair on their faces became perfectly bleached, until in +fact it was nearly white. The loss of colour was gradual, and, although +noticed, was never alluded to, each one imagining that his companion's +hair was turning grey from the effects of hardship and anxiety! It was +only after our return to the ship that those possessing beards and +moustaches discovered the change that had occurred. The colour returned +in the same gradual manner that it had disappeared. We all suffered a +loss of hair from the head; but this may easily be attributed to our +sealskin caps, and other head-dresses, which were constantly worn. + +After the long use of moccasins, it took us some time to get accustomed +to leather boots, which we were obliged to wear on account of the sludgy +state of the surface of the floes and the land. With a temperature some +degrees below freezing point, nothing is more comfortable or better +suited for travelling over the pack than a good pair of moccasins. + +The return of the sledge travellers was celebrated, on the 29th of June, +by the best dinner we could afford to put on the table. As our +printing-press had long been dismantled, a written _menu_ was given to +myself and Aldrich as the leaders of the two extended sledge parties. A +beautiful sketch of the highest position reached was drawn by Moss, the +following being as near as possible a fac-simile:-- + +[Illustration: "Marco Polo." Lat. 83° 20´ 26´´ N.] + + + MENU. + + Potage olla Podrida. + Petits Pâtes d'Homards. Fricassée de Pégouse et Sardines. + Rognons aux Champignons saucés dans Attrapez-en-haut. + Rissoles à la Tomato. + Mâchoire de Boeuf. Jambon au Champagne. + Petits Pois. Carottes. Ognons. Pommes de Terre. + Tourte de Pêches. + Compote de Blancmange et Rhubarbe Fou. Pouding en Marmelade. + Pains rôtis aux Anchois. + Fromage. Liqueurs. Dessert. + Café noir. + + H.M.S. "Alert." _29th June, 1876._ + + +On the reverse side of the bill of fare were the following verses +composed by Pullen for the occasion. It is needless to add that they +were not only appreciated, but that they found a response in every +breast:-- + + Welcome home to the wished-for rest, + Travellers to north and travellers to west! + Welcome back from bristling floe, + Frowning cliff and quaking snow! + Nobly, bravely the work was done; + Inch by inch was the hard fight won. + Now the toilsome march is o'er, + Welcome home to our tranquil shore. + + Rough and rude is the feast we bring; + Rougher and ruder the verse we sing. + Not rough, not rude are the thoughts that rise + To choke our voices and dim our eyes, + As we call to mind that joyous sight + On an April morning cold and bright, + When a chosen band stepped boldly forth + To the unknown west and the unknown north; + And we from our haven could only pray-- + "God send them strength for each weary day!" + + He heard our prayer; He made them strong; + He bore their stalwart limbs along; + Planted their sturdy footsteps sure; + Gave them courage to endure. + Taught them, too, for His dear sake, + Many a sacrifice to make: + By many a tender woman's deed + To aid a brother in his need. + + And safe for ever shall He keep + In His gentle hand the two who sleep. + His love shall quench the tears that flow + For the buried dear ones under the snow. + And we who live and are strong to do, + His love shall keep us safely too: + Shall tend our sick, and soothe their pain, + And bring them back to health again. + And the breath of His wind shall set us free, + Through the opening ice to the soft green sea. + +Captain Nares had hinted that, in the present condition of the men, and +supposing also that those of the "Discovery" were in the same state, he +would not be justified in allowing even one ship to remain another year +exposed to the rigours of an Arctic winter and to the same causes that +had led to the recent outbreak of scurvy. We were prepared for this +announcement; for we well knew that to remain out a second winter, +although there were many of us ready and eager to do so, would simply be +to sacrifice many valuable lives for no object; for we could not +possibly expect to reach a higher northern latitude, or even to extend +our explorations much farther to the westward, although the whole force +of the expedition should be confined to the one direction. In deciding +to return to England, Captain Nares showed great moral courage, and +exercised a sound and wise judgment, in the opinion of all his officers. + +On the Sunday following the return of Aldrich's party, a special +thanksgiving was offered up to Almighty God for our safe return, and +prayers were also said for the speedy recovery of our sick comrades. + +On the 1st of July, on the usual monthly medical examination being held, +only ten men out of our fine ship's company were reported in a fit state +for work, and some of these were convalescents! The invalids, however, +thanks to the doctor's assiduous care, were improving slowly but surely. + +The thaw had by this time commenced. The snow was soft and wet in the +valleys, small rivulets were already meandering through the ravines and +gorges, whilst the summits of the mountains were covered with brown +patches that the wind and thaw combined had left bare. Little tufts of +the beautiful purple saxifrage dotted the sides of the hills over which +we walked, bringing forcibly to our minds the wild flowers of our own +dear country, and creating a longing desire to behold them once more. +Footprints of animals, notably musk-oxen, were occasionally observed; +but although these traces appeared fresh, they were evidently those of +the preceding autumn, which, having been covered with snow and frozen +hard during the winter, had thus been perfectly preserved. + +On the 5th of July, however, we were so fortunate as to shoot three +musk-oxen within three or four miles of the ship, and on the following +morning another fell a victim to the prowess of our sportsmen. This was +indeed a God-send, for without fresh meat the recovery of our sick would +be long and tedious. The actual amount of food obtained from these +animals was at the average rate of 120 lbs. from each. The dexterity +with which the beasts were operated upon after death would have done +credit to the most accomplished butchers. Our first dish of liver and +bacon at breakfast was, it is needless to say, done full justice to--the +only fault being an insufficiency in amount. + +Fresh provisions were indispensable for the restoration of the invalids +to health. Shooting parties were, therefore, organized amongst the +officers, and the whole country for a radius of many miles was well +scoured in search of game. These shooting parties were very enjoyable, +especially to those who, like myself, had been engaged on one of the +prolonged sledging expeditions--the contrast being very great. No +anxiety, little or no responsibility, careless of time, and oblivious of +everything save our own pleasure and convenience. Sleeping when we felt +tired, and having our meals when we felt hungry, the night the same as +the day, the sun at midnight being as bright as at noon, free from all +cares, intent only on sport, the time passed in a serene and delightful +manner, and we were truly sorry when the time came to relinquish our +gipsying life for a more civilized one on board. + +On one of these shooting tours I was away from the ship, accompanied by +a few choice spirits, for fourteen days. During that time we succeeded +in obtaining a couple of musk-oxen, and several brent geese, which were +a welcome addition to the fresh meat already obtained for the sick on +board the ship. What delightful little meals we used to cook for +ourselves, each one taking his turn, and vying with the others in his +endeavours to make his dishes excel those of his predecessor! + +On one occasion we had for breakfast the livers and gizzards of thirteen +geese served up with a little bacon, these being the perquisites of the +sportsmen. In the enjoyment of such luxuries it is not surprising that a +return to the ship, and our everlasting Australian and New Zealand beef +and mutton, was not hailed with delight. + +All this time the thaw had been rapidly progressing, the tops of the +hills were bare, and the ravines were rendered almost impassable from +the mountain torrents that dashed down towards the sea, gaining strength +and volume as they neared their outlets. These had to be crossed by the +shooting parties, the water reaching up to our waists, and flowing with +such force as nearly to carry us off our legs. As for change of +clothing, we had none; but on reaching our tents we would get into our +sleeping-bags and leave our wet clothes outside to dry; the temperature +at this time being about 40°. A warm supper, with a pannikin of hot tea, +followed by a glass of grog, soon made us forget the discomforts of the +past in the enjoyment of the present. + +[Illustration: BRENT GOOSE AND EIDER DUCKS.] + +Some of the scenery, about five or ten miles in the interior, was +extremely picturesque. The spot that we selected for our camp was on the +borders of a lake that formed one of a chain extending to the south +westward. Some of the hills surrounding these lakes were beautifully +carpeted with the pretty little purple saxifrage, a _draba_, a +_potentilla_, and other wild flowers, while the valleys were covered +with patches of luxuriant vegetation, consisting of grasses and +delightfully soft moss. Altogether the aspect of the surrounding country +afforded a striking contrast to what it was but a few short weeks back, +when still wrapped in its wintry garb. + +On our return to the ship on the 24th of July, we were glad to hear +that our invalids were progressing favourably, and the convalescents +regaining strength. It was also a source of great gratification to us to +find a broad stream of water forming outside our protecting floe-bergs, +and extending from Point Sheridan to as far south as we could see. This +was a very agreeable and unexpected surprise. Active preparations were +at once made to release the ship from her icy prison. All stores and +provisions were re-embarked, instruments were brought on board and +carefully packed up and put away, boats were hoisted up, the screw +lowered, and the engines reported in good working order. Strict orders +were issued that no one was to be absent from the ship, on any pretence, +for a longer period than four hours without express permission. Any day +might see our release! Anxious eyes were constantly directed towards the +pack, which was now acted upon both by wind and tide, drifting north and +south as it felt their influences. + +A large cairn, fully ten feet high, was erected on the summit of "Cairn +Hill," in which was deposited a record stating briefly what had been +accomplished by the expedition, and giving a list of the officers and +men of both ships. To this document each of the former attached his +signature. Will this ever be disturbed by our fellow-men? + +Strenuous exertions were made by means of powder to blow up the ice +between the ship and the channel of water that almost tantalized us by +its existence, and so clear a passage by which we could effect our +escape. Countless torpedoes, containing from 1 to 50 lbs. of powder, +were used to accomplish this object, and many hours of hard labour were +expended in the same endeavour. At length, on the morning of the 31st +of July, our exertions were crowned with success, and great was the +excitement on board when hurried orders were issued to raise steam with +all despatch and to prepare for sea! A fresh south-westerly wind had +blown the pack off the shore, leaving a clear channel of water extending +as far as could be seen to the southward. + +By 7 A.M. the ship was free and afloat, and at eight o'clock the colours +were hoisted, and we succeeded, without much difficulty, in steaming +clear of the prison that had for eleven long months so securely held us +in its icy fetters. + +Who can describe the feelings experienced by all on board the "Alert" on +again hearing the long-silent throbbing of the engines, and knowing that +the ship was once more in motion? + +Yet a slight pang of regret was felt at leaving the barren, sterile +coast, off which we had passed so many happy days, and we could not but +feel grateful to the kind floe-bergs which had, during that time, +protected us so well from "ye merciless yce." + + +FOOTNOTE: + + [1] As soon as it was possible to use the lime-juice in the form in + which it was supplied to the expedition (that is, in jars or bottles) + all sledge parties were invariably supplied with it as a daily + ration. + + + + +CHAPTER XXVI. + +THE RETURN VOYAGE IN THE ICE. + + + "Let our trusty band + Haste to Fatherland, + Let our vessel brave + Plough the angry wave." + + THORHALL'S _Saga_. + +Cape Joseph Henry was lost to sight as the "Alert" rounded Cape Rawson; +but very heavy ice off Cape Union for a time completely obstructed our +progress. + +Excessive caution was necessary in handling the ship amongst these +ponderous floes. Patience combined with perseverance are essential +virtues inseparable to successful ice navigation, and they were +constantly called into requisition in order to ensure a safe deliverance +from the dangers which surrounded us. + +A vigilant look-out had to be kept on the pack, and the ship was moved +from time to time in order to avoid a "nip." Frequently we would observe +a heavy floe coming into contact with the large grounded masses of ice +that lined the coast, forcing them over, or crumbling them into +shapeless fragments, thus clearly illustrating our own fate should we be +so unfortunate as to be caught between the two. + +The orders "up" and "down screw and rudder" were given and executed +several times during each day. As on our outward journey, preparations +were now made for abandoning the ship at a moment's notice. Tents, +clothing, cooking utensils, and all necessaries for a life on shore were +spread out on the upper deck in readiness to be thrown on the ice in the +event of such a catastrophe. + +The cool way in which we all spoke of the probable loss of our home, and +the prospect of being cast adrift at a moment's notice, was very +remarkable. Perhaps the knowledge that our consort, the "Discovery," was +within some forty miles of us, and therefore within easy travelling +distance, might account for the light manner in which such a calamity +was regarded; but it was impossible to disguise the fact that the loss +of our good ship would be a very serious, not to say uncomfortable, +event. + +Steam had to be kept ready at a few minutes' notice, so as to take +advantage of every little opening that might occur in the ice, even +though we should only succeed in advancing a few hundred yards. On one +occasion the ship was purposely forced into the pack, with which it +drifted to the southward; but on the turn of the tide, when the ice +began to drift in the opposite direction, it was no easy matter to free +ourselves from the bondage to which we had voluntarily subjected +ourselves. If it can be avoided, it is best not to allow a ship to get +beset, even when the drift of the pack is favourable. + +As we proceeded south, although our progress was slow, the change in the +appearance and massiveness of the ice was very palpable. Occasionally we +would meet small specimens of our palæocrystic friends, over which we +had travelled during the preceding spring, but, as a rule, the ice was +of a much lighter description. Still the floes were far heavier than +those met with in Baffin Bay, and by no means to be despised. + +During the time the ship was detained, waiting for the ice to open to +allow her to proceed, our sportsmen were not idle, landing at all hours +of the day and night in order to procure fresh food for the sick. So +successful were they in their forays that the sick were supplied with a +fresh meat meal daily,--geese, ducks, and hares forming the principal +part of their "bags." The slaughter amongst the former was +tremendous--entire flocks numbering from fifty to seventy birds falling +victims to the prowess of not more than two guns, and within the short +space perhaps of half an hour! The unfortunate birds being in the act of +moulting were, of course, unable to escape the unerring aim of our +marksmen. + +In addition to crops of mustard and cress that we succeeded in raising +on board, we were able to obtain small quantities of sorrel, which the +convalescents were sent on shore to gather from the valleys and sides of +the hills, often returning with sufficient to enable a limited allowance +to be served out periodically. Sometimes the sick men were sent on shore +themselves to _browse_ on this excellent antiscorbutic. + +On the morning of the 5th of August, being within twenty miles of the +"Discovery," Egerton, accompanied by one of the men, was sent to give +them information of our position. Our own ship was then, and had been +for the past forty-eight hours, effectually jammed by the ice and unable +to move. In the mean time we on board the "Alert" were endeavouring to +get our vessel clean, and into something like order and ship-shape. On +the following morning we sustained a slight "nip," caused by the ice +setting rapidly in towards us. Our rudder head was badly wrenched before +the rudder could be unshipped, and the iron tiller was bent and +crippled. We only succeeded in easing the pressure by exploding some +charges under the ice. In the forenoon Rawson, with two of the men +belonging to the "Discovery," walked on board. We were, of course, +delighted to see them and to hear news of our consort. + +From them we learnt that poor Egerton had lost his way, and did not +arrive on board their ship until after he had been wandering about for +eighteen hours! The news from the "Discovery" was what we feared. +Notwithstanding the large amount of musk-ox flesh procured by them +during the autumn and following summer, scurvy had attacked her crew in +almost the same virulent manner as it had ours. The return journeys of +some of their sledge parties were simply a repetition of our own. +Beaumont's division--the one exploring the north-western coast of +Greenland--had suffered very severely, and we heard with extreme regret +that two of his small party had succumbed to this terrible disease. + +The rest of his men, with himself and Dr. Coppinger, had not yet +returned to the "Discovery," having remained in Polaris Bay to recruit +their healths. This was, indeed, a bitter ending to our spring campaign, +on which we had all set out so full of enthusiasm and hope. It had the +effect, however, of confirming Captain Nares in his resolution to +proceed to England. With such broken-down crews it would have been folly +indeed to have risked the rigours of a second Arctic winter; and there +was really nothing left for us to do, Beaumont having done his work so +well that it would have been impossible for us to have extended any +exploration in that quarter. The "Discovery" had been afloat for some +time, and was in perfect readiness to proceed to sea on the arrival of +Beaumont and his party. Their absence caused us great anxiety, as the +pack, being in motion between ourselves and Polaris Bay, and +consequently where they would have to cross, made us fully alive to the +risks and dangers they would encounter whilst crossing it. Still we +hoped to hear of their safe arrival as soon as we should drop anchor +alongside our consort in Discovery Bay. + +The most important news was that a large seam of lignite of the Miocene +period had been discovered within about three miles of their winter +quarters. They had not been able to utilize this coal, but several large +specimens had been carried to the ship--the result of experiments made +being that it was reported, for steaming purposes, equal to the best +Welsh coal. + +Whilst imprisoned by the ice and waiting to escape, our naturalist made +an interesting discovery within two hundred yards of the ship. On the +beach, about twenty feet above high-water mark, he observed some wood +which, on examination, proved to be portions of sledge runners and +cross-pieces; also a snow scraper, made from the tusk of a narwhal or +walrus, and a large lamp, apparently a piece of schistose rock hollowed +out.[1] These relics are the most northern traces of Eskimos yet found. +Their position would lead one to suppose that the wanderers had arrived +so far north along the shores on the western side of the channel, and +from thence crossed over to the opposite Greenland coast; the cliffs to +the northward being very steep, and although not actually impassable, +great difficulty would be experienced in travelling along their base. +This, and the absence of animal life, would readily account for their +desire to leave such an inhospitable and sterile land. + +On the 7th and 8th of August the ship was subjected to some very severe +squeezes. On the latter day a large floe-berg pressed violently against +the vessel and forced her on shore, lifting the stern bodily out of the +water to a height of about five feet. The noise of the cracking of the +beams and the groaning of the timbers was a sound that once heard will +never be forgotten. To those below, the crumbling of the pitch in the +deck seams sounded like a shower of hail on the upper deck. Fortunately +for us the floe-berg was heavy and of deep flotation, and therefore +grounded before it had time to cause the destruction of the ship. It was +a grand sight to witness some of the neighbouring floe-bergs--great +masses of ice from sixty to seventy feet in thickness--turned completely +over and swept away by the pack in its irresistible career. + +[Illustration: REDUCING A FLOE-BERG.] + +We had no time, however, to indulge ourselves in watching spectacles of +such magnificence. Our position was by no means pleasant: any pressure +upon the ship, caused by spring tides or otherwise, must inevitably +crush her; and the prospect of another winter in the ice began to dawn +upon us. There was apparently no escape, as, from our experience of the +preceding year, we had cause to believe that, when once the floe-bergs +grounded along the coast, they remained immoveable during the whole +winter, and here were we forced on shore by a floe-berg which had +grounded immediately outside us. Our only chance was to reduce the huge +mass of ice by which we were imprisoned, so as to lighten it +sufficiently to float and drift away at high water. It was a bold idea; +but it was no sooner resolved on than every available working man in the +ship, irrespective of rank or station, was busily employed with axe, +pick, or chisel in demolishing the obstruction. On the third day, so +energetically was the work carried out, that the judicious explosion of +a heavy charge of powder immediately under the berg had the effect of +floating it away at high water, and the ship was released. + +The pack being loose, we succeeded in making good progress, and on the +following evening had the very great satisfaction of anchoring alongside +the "Discovery," after having been separated from her for nearly twelve +months. An interchange of visitors immediately took place. Local news, +for want of more important intelligence, was fully and freely discussed, +and the routine of the winter and the doings of the sledge parties +formed topics of interesting conversation. The prolonged absence of +Beaumont and his party acted as a damper upon our spirits, for we could +not hide from ourselves the fact that their journey across the strait +must be a hazardous one. So uneasy did Captain Nares feel regarding +their safety that he determined upon going in search of them, even over +to Polaris Bay. Accordingly, on Sunday morning, the 13th of August, +having transferred all our sick and helpless hands to the "Discovery," +and having our own ship's company supplemented by six men from our +consort, we again made a start, but were stopped by heavy ice at the +entrance of the harbour, through which it was quite impossible to +penetrate. On the following day, to our great delight, we observed a +tent pitched on the ice about three miles to the southward of the ship. +A relief party was quickly formed, and in a few hours we had the extreme +pleasure and satisfaction of welcoming Beaumont and his party on board, +none the worse for what they had recently gone through, and almost +indignant at all offers of assistance that were made to them. On account +of the drifting of the pack over which they had been travelling, their +work, during the last three or four days, had been excessively severe. +On occasions they were compelled to continue the march for thirty-two +and twenty-two consecutive hours without resting. + +As the ice still remained packed and impenetrable, we were unable to +advance, although more than one unsuccessful attempt was made to push +on. On several occasions the dredge was hauled and with good and +interesting results. The coal seam was also visited by different parties +of officers. It exists in a visible seam on the northern side of a +ravine, and is about three hundred yards long and twenty-five high. We +were unable to ascertain its depth below the surface of the ground, or +its thickness. + +[Illustration: H.M.S. "ALERT" FORCED ON SHORE.] + +We were also very fortunate in finding a large number of vegetable +fossils in the surrounding limestone, some of the leaf impressions being +very clear and perfect. At the head of the ravine is a magnificent cave, +formed by the two sides of the gorge and covered with a roof of frozen +snow. This roof is apparently permanent, as when we visited the cave it +was precisely in the same condition as when it was first discovered +twelve months before! The cave is very large, capable of +accommodating easily sixty or seventy men. + +During these excursions several butterflies were caught and brought on +board as specimens, as also some flies, gnats, and other _diptera_. Many +hares were also shot, to the great delight of our doctor, who had been +working like a horse in order to bring his patients round. + +The scenery in the channel between Bellot Island and the mainland, +through which we passed in one of our vain attempts to get south, was +very striking: bold cliffs, and hills rising to a height of two thousand +feet on either side, intersected by deep ravines and gorges having +almost precipitous sides and terminating in bays and little harbours. + +On Sunday the 20th, by dint of boring and charging, at the expense, +however, of our rudder head, we succeeded in forcing a passage through +the ice in Lady Franklin Bay, and into a broad stream of water extending +along the coast to the southward, which we fondly hoped would eventually +lead us into open water.[2] But navigation in ice-bound seas is indeed +uncertain. For on the following day we were compelled to seek refuge +inside a land-locked and apparently well-protected and secure harbour. +How deceitful was its appearance! Hardly an hour had elapsed after +entering this sheltered retreat, before the "Alert" was severely nipped +by a heavy floe and forced on shore. + +For many hours the ship remained in a very critical position, as the +tide receding left her completely high and dry, and listed over at an +angle of 25°. + +So steep was the bank on which we had been forced, that at low water we +were able to walk, "dry shod," from the stem to the main chains, whilst +aft the water was over our mizzen chains, and within a short distance of +the taff-rail. A good sensational photograph and some sketches were made +of the ship in this unpleasant position. Strenuous efforts were, of +course, at once made to lighten and float the vessel. The fore part was +entirely cleared, and the chain cables brought aft. A bower anchor was +laid out astern in order to haul the ship off to. + +The manner in which this latter work was performed was both novel and +ingenious. A small but heavy piece of ice was secured and brought +alongside the ship. On this was placed the anchor, as on a raft. It was +then towed by boats to the position decided upon, when the raft was +destroyed by exploding a charge of gunpowder immediately underneath it, +the anchor, of course, sinking to the bottom. + +With such good will did all work, that we had the joy and satisfaction +of seeing our good ship afloat, and ready to proceed, in about fifteen +hours from the time of the accident taking place. The bay, which was the +scene of our mishap, was called Rawlings Bay, after one of our men, who +was my sledge captain in all my expeditions. A musk-ox skull and the +horn of a reindeer were picked up by Feilden close to where the ship was +aground, proving that the neighbourhood is occasionally visited by these +animals. + +From this time, until the 9th of September, we were engaged in a +never-ceasing struggle with the ice, frequently detained for many hours, +and rarely advancing more than a few hundred yards during the day. The +fast-forming ice reminded us unpleasantly of the near approach of +winter, whilst the land had again assumed its wintry covering of snow. +On the 22nd of August candles had to be used below at midnight for +reading or writing. The young ice was found very tenacious, glueing and +cementing the broken fragments of floes together. This caused such an +impediment to our advance, although the pack was what is termed loose, +that we were on several occasions compelled to relinquish all attempts +at penetrating farther, and to secure the ships until a more favourable +opportunity should occur. Our stock of coal, too, was getting alarmingly +small, and had to be very carefully economized. Without the means of +steaming, our chance of escape would, indeed, have been small. + +On the 24th we rounded Cape Fraser;[3] on the 27th,[4] so slow was our +progress, that we only just succeeded in getting into Dobbin Bay, where +we were detained until the 3rd of September. The temperature had fallen +to 19°. Last year we were frozen up on the 3rd of September, and here +were we on the same date with as low a temperature and many miles to +accomplish before we could actually be clear of the ice! + +Snow also began to fall heavily, and everything appeared gloomy and +inhospitable. As there was now a prospect of our being forcibly detained +for another winter in the ice, and as some of our provisions were +getting low, on passing the large depôt established in Dobbin Bay on our +way up the previous year, we landed and brought off all the tea, sugar, +and chocolate, and such other articles as we were likely to require. + +Whilst this work was in progress, a large ground seal (_Phoca barbata_) +was shot by Hans, of the "Discovery," on which was found a partially +healed wound; on further examination, an iron-pointed harpoon with an +ivory socket, evidently of Eskimo construction, was discovered imbedded +in its blubber. It would have been very interesting if we could have +traced, by the manufacture of the instrument, the tribe to which it had +belonged and the locality where the wound was inflicted. + +One morning, when some little distance from the land, a small fox, of a +mottled colour, wandered off to the ship, being attracted towards us +either by hunger or curiosity. The officer of the watch, always on the +_alert_, soon spied the little animal cruising about amongst the +hummocks and shot it. The skin was preserved with the collection of +natural history specimens, whilst the body was eaten by us at dinner and +found to be delicious. Passing Cape Hawks, and Allman Bay, an inlet +which was named after the distinguished President of the Linnæan +Society, we continued to push the ships in the direction of open water +to the south, which we at length reached. + +It was with no small amount of thankfulness that on the 9th of September +we emerged from the cold, grim clutches that seemed only too ready to +detain us for another winter in the realms of the Ice King, and that we +felt our ship rise and fall once more on the bosom of an undoubted ocean +swell. It was, indeed, a joyous sensation to look around and see nothing +but blue water, and, with the exception of a few straggling bergs, not +a single speck of ice in sight. This broad sheet of water had for some +time been known to us, having been observed from the summits of various +hills that we had ascended, and all our energies of late had been +concentrated into reaching it. We had a hard fight, but perseverance and +patience ultimately proved triumphant. + +[Illustration: ALLMAN BAY.] + +On first reaching it, we found it to be coated with a thin layer of +young ice, which offered a great deal of hindrance, although it had not +the effect of checking us altogether. Our course through this young ice +could be distinctly traced for a long distance astern, by a broad lane +of water resembling the Suez Canal. At 6 P.M. we passed Cape Sabine, and +distinguished our cairn on the top of Brevoort Island apparently +untouched. Ahead was Cape Isabella, towards which we steered. + + +FOOTNOTES: + + [1] I have already referred to this discovery in my remarks on the + migrations of the Eskimos, at p. 69. + + [2] At this time the "Pandora" was cruising in the entrance of Smith + Sound, with an impenetrable barrier of ice blocking her way to the + northward. + + [3] On this day the "Pandora" succeeded in landing a party on Cape + Isabella for the second time, searching for a record. + + [4] On the 27th the "Pandora" was driven out of Smith Sound by a + gale. + + + + +CHAPTER XXVII. + +HOMEWARD BOUND. + + + "Still in the yawning trough the vessel reels, + Ingulfed beneath two fluctuating hills; + On either side they rise, tremendous scene, + A long dark melancholy vale between. + The balanced ship, now forward, now behind, + Still felt the impression of the waves and wind, + And to the right and left by turns inclined." + + FALCONER. + + "_Montano._--What from the cape can you discern at sea? + + _1st Gent._--Nothing at all: it is a high-wrought flood; + I cannot, 'twixt the heaven and the main, + Descry a sail. + + _Montano._--Let's to the seaside, ho! + + _3rd Gent._--Come, let's do so; + For every moment is expectancy + Of more arrivance. (_Within._) A sail! A sail! + + _4th Gent._--The town is empty; on the brow of the sea + Stand ranks of people, and they cry--a sail!" + + _Othello._ + +Shortly before midnight, on the 9th of September, Cape Isabella was +reached and the ships were clear of Smith Sound. As, on our outward +journey, to me had been allotted the duty of erecting a cairn on that +prominent headland, and establishing a post office, so, on our return +journey, was I assigned the duty of visiting the place in order to +ascertain if letters had been deposited there during the period of our +absence by any enterprising friend. On reaching the lower cairn, to my +great surprise--for we hardly expected that any one would have visited +the place since our departure the previous year--I found an additional +cask had been placed alongside the one that I had established there. +This was quickly opened, and found to contain a small mail for each +ship. + +Hurriedly leaving a record notifying our visit, we eagerly seized our +treasures and made the best of our way to the boat. Great was the +excitement when the news spread that a mail from England was actually on +board, and we were soon deep in the enjoyment of perusing late letters +from home, a pleasure to which we had so long been strangers. + +Many were the heartfelt expressions of gratitude that rose to the lips +of those lucky recipients of home news towards that gallant officer and +friend who had so perseveringly and so generously, in spite of many +dangers and difficulties, succeeded in depositing their letters so far +north. The bulk of our mail we imagined had been left either at Disco or +Upernivik. Had we examined the cairn on the summit of Cape Isabella, we +should there have learnt that the same kind and disinterested friend had +taken them to Littleton Island, and there safely deposited them. Being +ignorant of this fact, and the weather being against our proceeding +thither, a course was shaped to the southward; those who were under the +impression that our English letters were really on that island being +consoled by the fact that we were steering homewards, and that in a +short time letters would be no longer necessary or of any value. + +Wars, and rumours of wars, were prevalent, for our latest news came from +England at the time when all Europe was disturbed and unsettled by the +complexion of affairs in the East. + +This made us all the more anxious to get home quickly; but alas! +everything was against us. Tempestuous weather, with the wind _always_ +contrary, was our introduction to our own element, and, as our coal was +running very short, we were obliged to put the ships under canvas and +thrash them at it. Icebergs were innumerable, and, as the nights were +increasing in length and the darkness in density, they were anything but +pleasant neighbours. + +On the 12th of September it was blowing so hard and the weather was so +thick, that it was determined to seek an anchorage under the lee of the +land in Whale Sound, and there wait until the weather moderated. With +this object the ships were worked up under fore and aft sails and steam, +eventually anchoring in a small bay (Bardin Bay) in close proximity to +the Tyndall Glacier. As we came in we observed an Eskimo settlement on +the eastern side of the bay, and several natives were seen running along +the land towards us; but as the glacier intervened they were unable to +communicate, and the weather was too bad to allow us to send a boat to +them. This was much to be deplored, as, irrespective of the fact that +these people were the first human beings that we had seen for many a +long month, it was desirable that we should propitiate them in favour of +white men, and for this purpose we had many little articles of infinite +value to them, such as knives, needles, thread, scissors, etc., besides +provisions, ready for their acceptance. + +These natives were of the same tribe as those who were so kind to Kane +and Hayes, and also to the "Polaris," so it would have been a good +action, independently of all other reasons, could we have befriended +them. + +We had not been at anchor, however, more than five hours before a change +of wind, accompanied by heavy squalls which came over the hills fast and +furious, obliged us to get under weigh, and again put to sea, although +the weather was as thick and the wind as strong as ever--added to which +hail and snow showers were frequent: altogether a very unpleasant and +miserable night was spent, for it was nearly midnight when we were +forced to fly from our harbour. + +On the 16th we were beating about off the entrance to Lancaster Sound, +near Cape Byam Martin. This was all familiar ground to me, and brought +back to my recollection scenes on board the old whaler, "Arctic," that +had occurred in the same locality three years before. We made many tacks +in our endeavours to weather Cape Walter Bathurst, but, for a long time, +without success, for the wind invariably headed us on each tack. + +On the 20th several eider-ducks, some turnstones, rotges, and +snow-buntings were seen, but all going in a southerly direction, +apparently anxious to seek warmer climes before the winter should have +claimed both the sea and land. How we envied these birds their means of +locomotion! for foul and strong winds causing slow progress, were +beginning to be very irksome. Our old friends the "mollies" (fulmar +petrels), that we had not seen for so long, again joined us, and might +be seen continually darting down and picking up in their voracious maws +all scraps that had been thrown overboard. + +[Illustration: FULMAR PETRELS ("MOLLIES").] + +The persistent manner in which the bad weather clung to us was quite +marvellous. Hardly a fine day had been enjoyed since we emerged from the +ice. The words of Falconer would have been applicable to us, and might +have been repeated with truth every morning: + + "A lowering squall obscures the southern sky, + Before whose sweeping breath the waters fly. + + * * * * * + + It comes resistless! and with foaming sweep, + Upturns the whitening surface of the deep." + +At length, after being buffeted about for many days, the high land of +Disco was sighted on the 25th of September; and on the same day we came +to an anchor in the little harbour of Godhavn, and congratulated +ourselves once more upon our return to civilization. + +The day, as if to make up for our previous bad weather, was a bright +sunny one, and perfectly still and calm. This was all the more +appreciated after the turbulent seas which had lately almost driven us +distracted. The scenery coming in was very beautiful. On one side were +the high cliffs of Disco, intersected here and there with deep fiords +and bays, whilst on the other lay the perfectly quiescent sea, studded +with icebergs of all shapes and sizes. Occasionally the surface of the +water would be ruffled and disturbed by the appearance of a seal's head, +as the inquisitive little animal would pop it up to gaze curiously at us +as we steamed slowly by; or else a whale, as he swam lazily along, would +give a flick with his huge tail, or spout a jet of water in the air, +which might be taken either as a welcome back to more genial climes, or +an angry remonstrance that a monster larger than himself should dare to +live in his own particular domain. Birds flew around and alighted near +us. One, a ger-falcon, was so bold as to venture to perch upon our +fore-royal truck; but, I am ashamed to relate, was fired at for its +misplaced confidence. It escaped, however, unhurt. Everything was bright +and joyous, and all were happy and elated. Our joy was slightly marred +on arrival to find that our mails had really been taken on and left at +Littleton Island; but a mail, with letters of a later date than those +brought out by the "Pandora," which had been got together and made up +for us at Copenhagen by my cousin, had just arrived in the Danish brig +"Tjalfe." + +Of course it could not be expected that, during the period of our +absence from England, no sad changes should have taken place, and the +sorrowful faces of more than one among us testified to the fact that +some dear and loved ones would be seen no more in this world. + +From Mr. Krarup Smith, the Inspector, we learnt that the "Pandora" had +only taken her departure for England four days previously, having been +unsuccessful in her endeavours to reach Cape Sabine. The attempt had +only been relinquished by her commander when the lateness of the season +compelled him to beat a retreat. A supply of beer, sent from England by +my cousin, was found awaiting our arrival, and was most acceptable. A +cask of beer had also been kindly left for our use by Allen Young, so +that we were enabled to supply "all hands" with a glass of beer twice a +week during the passage to England. Through the kindness of the Danish +authorities, we were able to obtain thirty tons of coal, with a promise +of thirty more if we chose to go to Egedesminde, another settlement +about sixty miles to the southward. This was an offer too valuable to be +disregarded, and was accepted by Captain Nares. + +Having shifted our rudder, which, to use an American phrase, was "pretty +considerably chawed up," from its treatment by the ice, and made good a +few other defects, we took our departure from Godhavn on the morning of +the 28th, Mr. Krarup Smith, the Inspector, coming on board to accompany +us round to Egedesminde. As we steamed out of harbour the little +three-gun battery fired a farewell salute, the ensigns on shore, and on +board, were dipped, and the ladies (two in number), from their +verandahs, waved with their pocket handkerchiefs a last adieu. It was a +fine clear morning as we left; but a thick fog soon overtook us, in +which we remained enveloped for the remainder of the day, and it was not +until the following morning that we reached our destination. + +Our way took us through a perfect labyrinth of small islands, some of +the narrow channels through which we had to pass being almost blocked by +large grounded masses of ice, remnants of icebergs. The "Alert" and +"Discovery" being the first steamers that had ever visited Egedesminde, +the natives turned out in force to witness our arrival. Several kayaks +came skimming rapidly along the smooth and unruffled surface of the +water as we approached, their occupants gazing with evident astonishment +at the large "umiaks," whose motive power was to them invisible and +incomprehensible. The Danish flag was run up on three separate +flag-staves on shore, and a salute of seven guns was fired to welcome +our arrival. + +There is much similarity about the various Danish settlements in +Greenland. The houses are of the same size and colour, and generally of +about the same number, whilst all possess their little church, their +storehouse, and their cooperage. The settlement is very prettily +situated on the northern side of the largest of a group of many islands +of all sizes. These are of the same metamorphic formation, and possess +a more luxuriant vegetation than we had hitherto seen. The island is +covered with numerous small lakes and ponds, and is extremely marshy and +swampy. The difficulty of walking, without sinking up to the ankles in a +bog, is very great. + +The population of Egedesminde, which is the most southern settlement in +the Inspectorate of North Greenland, is about one hundred and thirty +souls, including the Danes, who with the Governor and his family number +about twelve. The entire population of North Greenland is about four +thousand three hundred. + +The boggy substance, like peat, is dug up and stacked during the summer, +and when dried is very generally used as fuel. The chief employment of +the inhabitants is, as at the other settlements, that of collecting +skins and blubber. Reindeer are obtained on the mainland, but they are +not plentiful. + +The Governor, Mr. Boldroe, was good enough to present us with a fine +large haunch of venison; but, curious to relate, when served up, it had +an unmistakeable taste and odour of musk! Our scorbutic patients, who +were at this time nearly all convalescent, benefited largely from the +quantities of fresh fish, principally cod, obtainable at this place. + +On the morning of the 2nd of October, having received on board the +amount of coal promised, we bade our kind friends farewell, and steamed +away amidst the usual firing of guns and dipping of colours. The +stoppages at these two civilized places were very pleasant breaks to us, +after our long absence from society of any description, except our own, +and were not regretted by any one. Indeed, the kindness and true +hospitality extended to us by our Danish friends in the different +settlements in Northern Greenland will long be remembered with feelings +of gratitude and pleasure. + +From the date of leaving this our last port until our arrival at +Valentia, we experienced very tempestuous weather. Strong head winds +were in constant attendance, and the ship's general state was being +"battened down and under close-reefed topsails." Under these +circumstances our daily rate of progress was remarkably slow, and on +some days we found that we had actually increased our distance from home +instead of having lessened it. Few on board had before experienced a +longer continuance of really stormy weather. From the severe buffeting +we received, our rudder, already crippled, was reduced to such a state +as to be absolutely useless, the rudder-head being almost wrenched off, +and we were obliged to steer the ship during the remainder of the voyage +by means of the rudder pendants. + +On the 16th of October, to the intense surprise of everybody, a vessel +was sighted ahead, which proved to be the "Pandora." How very small is +this world we live in! Here were we in the middle of the broad Atlantic, +fifteen hundred miles from England, and out of the course of all ships, +and yet actually meeting a vessel that had purposely come out to seek +us. + +The weather was too bad to allow us to communicate, but an interchange +of news was effected by signal. The three ships remained in company for +a couple of days, when they lost sight of each other in thick and blowy +weather, we having previously ordered the "Discovery" to rendezvous at +Queenstown in case of parting company. + +Our rudder being in such a dilapidated state, Captain Nares determined +upon putting in to Valentia for the purpose of shifting it, the spare +one having in the mean time been temporarily repaired. With this object +we anchored in the snug little harbour of Valentia, on the 27th of +October, and here Captain Nares and several of the officers left for the +purpose of proceeding at once to London to report our arrival. + + "Now, strike your sayles, yee jolly mariners, + For we be come unto a quiet rode, + Where we must land some of our passengers + And light this wearie vessel of her lode. + Here she awhile may make her safe abode." + +It is in vain to attempt to describe the pleasure we all felt at +beholding trees and green fields once more, with the cattle browsing in +them. It is difficult at once to throw off old habits, and there were +many on board who expressed their anxiety to land at once with their +guns for the purpose of shooting "that herd of musk-oxen." Had we given +way to our inclinations, I fear our reception would not have been so +warm or so hospitable as it was. + +The people of Valentia were the first to bid us welcome. Their kindness +and hospitality will never be effaced from our memory. The rudder having +been shifted, and sundry repairs executed, we took our departure on the +following morning at daylight, being guided out of the place by a most +eccentric and original old pilot. On the 29th we reached Queenstown, +where we found the "Discovery" had arrived only a couple of hours +before. Here again we received a warm welcome and enjoyed that hearty +hospitality for which the Irish people are so justly celebrated. That +evening we were the guests of the Port Admiral, he and Mrs. Hillyar +hearing of no refusal, although we had to sit down to dinner in--well, +clothes very dirty and very much the worse for wear. The next day, +having taken in a supply of coals, we started for Portsmouth, the two +ships remaining in company and arriving in that harbour together on the +2nd of November. + +Our reception there and afterwards is a matter of history. Suffice it to +say that our exertions received the approbation of our country and of +our brother officers, and that the Lords of the Admiralty were pleased +to express their satisfaction at the manner in which the expedition had +been conducted by our leader, as well as at the way in which the work +had been carried out by his subordinates. + +My story has now come to an end. My aim has been to describe our daily +life during a very eventful service. + +I have quoted largely from my journal, and in some instances I have +thought it best to copy from it _verbatim_. + +Nothing is further from my thoughts than to claim for this narrative any +literary merit whatever. I simply wish it to be regarded as a plain but +accurate statement of facts--an unpretending account of the cruise of +one of the ships of the late expedition--by one of its members. + +In launching my little book upon the ocean of literature, I venture to +quote the words of brave old Master Beste, who, being engaged in +compiling a record of another Arctic expedition, humbly apologizes, as I +do, for submitting his work to the public:--"And herein I humbly pray +pardon, for my rude order of writing, which proceedeth from the barren +brayne of a souldier and one professing armes, who desireth rather to be +wel thought of with your honour for his well meaning than for anye hys +cunning writing at all." + +[Illustration: _FAREWELL!_] + + + + +INDEX. + + + Admiralty, Lords of, visit to the Polar ships, 9; + satisfaction at the results of the expedition, 368. + + Admiralty Inlet, remains of Eskimos on shores of, 68. + + Albert Head, 65. + + Aldebaran, erratic conduct of, 200. + + Aldrich, Lieut. Pelham, R.N., skill in managing a kayak, 30; + starts on a reconnoitring expedition in the autumn, 128; + second autumn journey with dog-sledge, 133; + starts on a third autumn journey, 136, 137; + ascends a hill near Cape Joseph Henry, 147; + glees by, 169, 216; + his lecture on meteorology, 169; + orchestra for the Royal Arctic Theatre, 171, 175, 214; + plays the harmonium at church, 187; + one of his dogs lost, 190; + plays at Christmas, 194, 195; + commands the extended party to the west, 241; + anxiety for his safety, 331; + return, 332. + + Ale, prepared specially for the expedition, 17. + (_See_ Beer.) + + "Alert," H.M.S., 1, 2; + special fittings, 3; + departure from Portsmouth, 9; + leaves Berehaven, 12; + commencement of the voyage, 15; + a lively ship, 17; + arrival at Godhavn, 26; + departure from Godhavn, 34; + on shore, 43; + proceeds to Cary Islands, 48; + Port Foulke, 51, 56; + perilous position of, 65, 91; + at Hannah Island, 100; + in Discovery Harbour, 104, 108, 293; + on shore near Cape Beechey, 112; + in the palæocrystic ice, 117, 118; + crosses the threshold of the unknown region, 119; + danger at Floe-berg Beach, 125, 134; + precarious winter quarters, 125, 135, 136; + housed in, 154; + internal winter arrangements, 156; + printing establishment, 165; + departure of sledges from, 257; + scurvy breaks out on board, 321; + succour from, reaches N. division, 325; + freed from winter quarters, 342; + forced on shore, 351; + afloat again, 347; + at Valentia, 367. + (_See_ Winter Quarters.) + + "Alexandra," H.M. sledge, 217, 259, 263. + + Alexandra Bay, 61, 63. + + Amusements in winter quarters, 167; + importance of, 163. + (_See_ Theatricals.) + + _Anonyx nugax_: crustacea brought up at the extreme northern point, 309 + (_n._). + + Arctic Circle crossed by the expedition, 26. + + Arctic Highlanders, 48. + (_See_ Eskimo.) + + Arctic school, 166, 167, 213. + + Arctic theatre. (_See_ Theatricals.) + + "Arctic," whaler, reminiscences of, 360. + + Astronomical observatory, 153, 180. + + Astronomy, lecture on, by Captain Nares, 169; + by Commander Markham, 169. + + Atanekerdluk, fossil plants at, 36. + + Atlantic, gales of wind in, 17, 18. + + Auks, Little. (_See_ Rotges.) + + Autumn depôt. (_See_ Depôts.) + + Autumn travelling, 128, 129, 133, 137 to 150; + discomfort, 141; + severe work, 147, 148; + return from, 148, 149; + results, 149. + + Auxiliary sledges, 234. + + Ayles, Adam, song by, 216. + + + Bache Island, of Hayes, not an island, 64. + + Baffin, William, gave name to Woman Isles, 41. + + Bag (sleeping), 139, 233, 235, 240, 279, 283, 287. + + Baird Inlet, 57. + + Baird, Cape, stopped by ice off, 103. + + Banks Island, heavy pack on west coast, 200. + + Bantry Bay. (_See_ Berehaven.) + + Bardin Bay, 359. + + Barrow, Cape John, 93. + + Bears, hunt in Melville Bay, 46; + recent tracks, 86. + + Beaumont, Lieutenant, H.M.S. "Discovery," his journey along the north + coast of Greenland, 346; + return of, 350. + + Beechey, Cape, Eskimo remains at, 69; + lane of water in direction of, 102, 112, 113; + rounded, 114. + + Beer at Godhavn, 363. + + Bellot, Cape, 103, 112; + Island, 112, 351. + + Berehaven, expedition at, 12. + + Bessels Bay, entrance passed, 100; + description of, 101. + + Bessels, Dr., observation as to meetings of tides at Cape Fraser, 92; + coast-line correctly delineated by, 99. + + Beverley, crimson cliffs of, 48. + + Bide-a-wee Harbour, 58. + (_See_ Payer Harbour.) + + Bills of fare, 185, 186, 196, 335. + (_See_ Play-bills.) + + Birds of the Arctic regions, 24, 35, 50; + Brent geese, 345; + dovekies, 50, 101; + eider duck, 101, 131, 360; + falcon, 362; + fulmar petrel, 361; + glaucous gulls, 50; + ivory gulls, 50, 101; + kittiwakes, 50; + king ducks, 50, 332; + knots, 110; + looms, 40, 50; + ptarmigan, 225; + rotges, 46, 50, 360; + skuas, 332; + terns, 110, 332; + turnstones, 360. + + Birthdays, celebration of, 184, 185. + + Black, Cape, 253. + + Blasting the ice, 87, 89, 90, 341, 349. + + "Bloodhound," H.M. sledge, 259, 263. + + Boats for the expedition, 4; + search for, left by Hayes, 53, 55; + on a sledge, 58; + jolly-boat of "Valorous" landed in Dobbin Bay, 84; + turned in on their davits owing to height of ice, 90; + advanced to northward of ship, 133; + hauled up during winter quarters, 157; + on sledges, 242 (_n._); + in Parry's expedition, details of, 243 (_n._); + painted, 245; + care of, on sledge, 279; + abandonment of, by Commander Markham, 288, 289, 318. + + Boldroe, Mr., governor of Egedesminde, 365. + + Botanical collections, 31. + + Botany. (_See_ Vegetation.) + + Bottle-nose whales, 20. + + Brent geese, 345. + + Brevoort Island, 57; + cairn on, 356. + + Brevoort Cape in sight, 103. + + "Bruin," largest dog on board, 210. + + Bryant, Geo., H.M.S. "Discovery," serving in the "Alert," 169. + + Buchanan Strait, Eskimo remains at, 69. + + "Bulldog," H.M. sledge, 217, 259, 263. + + Burroughs, Geo., ship's steward, H.M.S. "Alert," acts in _Chops of the + Channel_, 173. + + Butterflies, 351. + + Byam Martin Cape, 360. + + + Cairns at the Cary Islands, 49; + at Life-boat Cove, 53; + at Cape Isabella, 56; + on Brevoort Island, 356; + ancient cairns on Washington Irving Island, 85; + on Hannah Island, 101; + at Lincoln Bay, 117; + at the "Alert's" winter quarters, 284. + + Cairn Hill, 219, 220, 221, 225; + cairn built, 341. + + Cane, Frederick, armourer, H.M.S. "Alert," songs by, 169, 215. + + Carl Ritter Bay, 99. + + Cary Islands, 48; + depôt on, 49, 84. + + Castletown. (_See_ Berehaven.) + + Cave in the snow, 350. + + Cetaceans, various kinds, 20, 21. + + "Challenger," H.M. sledge, 217, 259. + + Chlorine observations, 180. + + _Chops of the Channel_, play acted by the men, 173. + + Chorus, grand palæocrystic, 216. + + Christmas in the Arctic regions, 192 to 197; + bill of fare, 196; + poem on, 196. + + Clavering, Captain, Eskimo seen by, on east coast of Greenland, 69. + + "Clements Markham," H.M. sledge, 217; + starts for "Discovery," 248. + + Clements Markham Inlet, 288. + + Clothing during winter, 159, 160; + sledging, 239. + (_See_ Foot-gear.) + + Coal, discovery of, 350; + offer of, at Egedesminde, 363. + + Cod-fish, 21, 25, 365. + + Colan, Dr., H.M.S. "Alert," his lecture on food in the Arctic regions, + 169; + medical instructions to officers of sledges, 238; + skilful treatment of Petersen, 255; + attention to scurvy patients, 333, 338, 345. + + Cold, extreme, 208, 222, 224. + (_See_ Temperature.) + + Collinson, Cape, 94. + + Cook, while sledging, 235, 265. + + Cooking apparatus, weight, 233; + description, 235. + + Copenhagen, letters sent out from, 363. + + Coppinger, Dr., H.M.S. "Discovery," state of lime-juice found by, in + Polaris Bay, 305; + journey with Lieut. Beaumont, 346. + + Cress. (_See_ Mustard and Cress.) + + Crimson cliffs of Beverley, 48. + + Crinoids dredged up, 73. + + Crow's-nest, description, 3; + Captain Nares constantly in, 66; + a cold berth, 98. + + Crozier Island passed, 98. + + Crustaceans dredged up at the extreme northern point, 309. + + Cryolite mine in Greenland, 20. + + Crystal Palace Glacier, 50. + + + Dancing at Christmas, 197; + old year, 204. + + Darkness, approach of, 127; + in sledge travelling, 141; + in winter, 178, 182; + monotony of, 207. + + Davis, John, musicians in the expedition of, 8; + gave name to Cape Desolation, 22, 23. + + Davis Strait, 18, 19, 20. + + Daylight. (_See_ Light.) + + Deaths. (_See_ Petersen, Porter, "Discovery.") + + Depôts on Cary Isles, 49; + Cape Isabella, 56; + Dobbin Bay, 85, 353; + Cape Collinson, 95; + Cape Morton, 102; + Lincoln Bay, 117, 248; + Floe-berg Beach, 122, 124; + near Cape Joseph Henry, 147, 149, 263, 321; + to southward of Floe Berg Beach for "Discovery" sledges, 255; + for sledge parties, 234. + + "Deptford," snow storehouse so called, 154. + + Desolation, Cape, 22. + + Diptera, 351. + + Disco, 6, 18, 34, 358, 362; + tradition of, 33, 34; + view from hills of, 31. + (_See_ Godhavn.) + + Disco Bay, 31. + + "Discovery," H.M.S., 95; + departure from Portsmouth, 9; + commencement of voyage, 15; + sighted off Greenland coast, 25; + towed by the "Alert," 41; + following, 45; + sent to communicate with natives at Cape York, 48; + at Port Foulke, 56; + perilous position, 65; + grounds off Cape Louis Napoleon, 90; + in great danger, 91; + blown from her anchors, 95; + lands a depôt at Cape Morton, 100; + in harbour, 104; + winter quarters of, 107; + sledge crew from, joins the "Alert," 108; + theatre on board, 174; + a health to, 217; + depôts laid out for sledges of, 227; + work of sledge parties, 242; + arrangement for opening communication with, from "Alert," 246, 255; + to return to England, 330; + joined by "Alert," 344, 345; + scurvy among crew of, 346; + two deaths, 346; + rendezvous at Queenstown, 367. + + Discovery Harbour, 104, 106, 112; + "Alert" arrives at, 347. + + Distant, Cape, walk to, 110; + "Alert" passes, 112. + + Divine service, 187; + on Christmas day, 195; + before sledges start, 258, 259. + + Dobbin Bay, 83, 86; + depôt at, 84, 353. + + Dock cut in the ice at Dobbin Bay, 86. + + Dockyard. (_See_ Portsmouth.) + + Dog-driver. (_See_ Petersen.) + + Dogs, Eskimo, 29, 38, 78, 79; + disease, 79; + wailing, 88; + habits, 130; + sledging, 80, 81, 128; + dog "Sallie" lost and found, 190, 191; + alarm of during winter, 199; + nearly steal musk-ox beef, 207; + alarm caused by, 210; + regularly fed, 210; + team sent with sledge to "Discovery," 247, 255; + trouble with, 253. + (_See_ Bruin, Sallie, Flo, Nellie.) + + Dovekies, 50, 101, 115. + + Draba, 57, 340. + + Dredging, 25, 73, 102. + + Driftwood, 112. + + Drip. (_See_ Snow.) + + Drip, inconvenience of, in winter, 182. + + Ducks. (_See_ Birds.) + + Dumb-bell Bay, 131. + + Dundas Harbour, remains of Eskimos at, 68. + + D'Urville, Cape, passed, 83. + + + Edinburgh, H.R.H. the Duke of, visit to Arctic ships, 8. + + Egedesminde, offer of coals at, 363; + expedition at, 364, 365. + + Egerton, Lieut. George Le Clerc, R.N., officer of the watch when the + ship touched the first ice, 22; + starts on autumn travelling, 133; + stage manager of the Royal Arctic Theatre, 171; + parts taken by, 174, 214; + sails his sledge, 231 (_n._); + sent to open communication with "Discovery," 247; + his efforts to save Petersen, 249 to 254; + second start for the "Discovery," 255; + sent to the "Discovery," 345. + + Eider ducks, 131, 360. + + Electricity, observations on, 180. + + Ellesmere Land, 50. + + Eskimo, Frederic, 29, 128; + Hans Hendrick, 39, 48, 354; + pilot, 42. + (_See_ Dogs.) + + Eskimos, 33; + at Proven, 38; + Cape York, 48; + Etah, 52; + traces of, in Payer Harbour, 58; + in Twin-glacier Bay, 61, 62; + wanderings, 67, 69; + Admiral Sherard Osborn and Mr. Clements Markham on wanderings of, 68, + 69; + remains on Capes Sabine, Hilgard, Louis Napoleon, Hayes, Fraser, + shores of Buchanan Strait, Radmore Harbour, and Bellot Isle, 69; + at Admiralty Inlet and Dundas Harbour, 68; + at Cape Beechey, 69, 347; + in Whale Sound, 359. + + Etah, native village, 52, 69. + + Eugénie, H.I.H. the Empress, present of woollen caps from, 7, 236, 239, + 287; + visits the Arctic ships, 8. + + Exercise during winter, 181, 187; + for sledging crews, 227, 228. + + + Falcon, 362. + + Farewell banquets, 8; + to the expedition at Portsmouth, 9, 10, 11; + to the "Valorous," 35. + + Farewell Cape, 19, 23, 69. + + Feilden, Captain, naturalist, H.M.S. "Alert," ascends hill above + Bessels Bay, 101; + visits Distant Cape, 110; + his lecture on geology, 169; + picks up skulls in Rawlings Bay, 352. + (_See_ Naturalist.) + + Ferbrache, Wm., sledge crew, N. division, symptoms of scurvy, 306. + + Figure-heads of the Arctic ships, 4. + + Finner whale, 20. + + Fire, precautions against, fire-hole, 160, 161; + alarm of, 226. + + Fishing on the Torske bank, 25. + + Fiskernaes, expedition off, 24. + + Fitting out the expedition, 1 to 8. + + "Flo," Eskimo dog, met with adrift, near Cape Joseph Henry, 323. + + Floes. (_See_ Ice.) + + Floe-bergs, description of, 114; + "Alert" secured inside a fringe of, 122, 125; + split by intense cold, 211. + + Floe-berg Beach, depôt at, 122, 124; + desolate scene at, 126; + view from, 127; + winter quarters at, 132. + + Flowers. (_See_ Vegetation.) + + Foot-ball on the ice, 77. + + Foot-gear, while sledging, 260, 261, 268, 280. + + Foraminifera brought up at the extreme north point, 309. + + Fossils, collections in Bessels Bay, 102; + in the coal, 350. + + Fossil plants, at Atanekerdluk, 37; + in the coal near Discovery Harbour, 350. + + Foulke Port, 51, 56, 69, 330. + + Foxes, traces of, 60, 107; + fox shot, 354. + + Fox trap, 68. + + Francombe, Reuben, H.M.S. "Alert," parts and songs by, 173. + + Franklin Pierce Bay, 72. + + Fraser, Cape, 55, 72; + Eskimo remains on, 68; + passed by the ships, 92; + meeting of the tides, 93; + rounded, going south, 353. + + Frederick VII., Cape, ship in danger off, 114. + + Frederic, 29, 128. + (_See_ Eskimo.) + + Freezing, experiments in, 223. + + Fresh meat, 186. + (_See_ musk-ox, hares, Brent geese.) + + Frost-bites, danger of, 81; + Petersen frost-bitten in the autumn, 129; + danger of, in autumn travelling, 142; + many frost-bites in return autumn journey, 147; + Lieut. May's severe frost-bite, 148; + other frost-bites and amputations, 148; + sufferers during the winter, 198; + precautions against, 199, 208; + on the dog sledge, in journey to "Discovery," 249. + + "Frost-bite Range," 148. + + Frozen ocean, 200, 215; + depôts cannot be laid out on, 234, 244; + difficulty of travelling over, 242; + movements of, 242. + (_See_ Palæocrystic Sea, Sledgings.) + + Fulmar petrels, 361. + + + Gales of wind in the Atlantic, 17, 18; + in Smith Sound, 59; + in Robeson Channel, 119; + at Floe Berg Beach, 124; + furious gale during autumn travelling, 133, 134; + in winter quarters, 205, 206; + while sledging, 282, 283, 285, 296, 297; + on the voyage home, 366, 367. + + Geese. (_See_ Brent.) + + Geology, lecture on, by Captain Feilden, 169. + + Geological collections, 31, 102, 116, 350. + (_See_ Fossils.) + + Geological formation, 64, 67, 68; + physical aspect of the coast lines, 99. + + Ger-falcon, 362. + + Giffard, Lieut. R.N., H.M.S. "Alert," magnetic observer, 154; + in charge of the printing, 164 (_n._), 169, 175, 215, 216; + lecture on magnetism by, 169; + parts taken by, in theatricals, 214. + + Gilbert, Sir Humphrey, musicians on board ship of, 7. + + Glaciers: of Jacobshavn, 32; + of the Waigat, 36; + of Omenak fiord, 38; + near Cape York, Petowik, 48; + Crystal Palace, 50; + my brother John's (of Kane), 52; + twin glaciers, 60, 61; + of Grinnell Land, 64, 73, 83; + in Bessels Bay, 99; + Tyndall, 359. + + Glaucous gulls, 50. + + Godhavn, arrival at, 26; + lovely weather at, 33; + hospitality of the people, 33, 363, 364. + + Godthaab, expedition off, 24. + + Good, Joseph, petty officer, H.M.S. "Alert," song by, 168. + + Gore, Wm., stoker, H.M.S. "Alert," song by, 216. + + Grampus, 21. + + Grand palæocrystic chorus, 216. + + Greenland, streams of ice, sweep down east coast of, 23; + coast of, 25; + natives on east coast, 69; + insularity of, argument from tides, 92; + distant view from Floe-berg Beach, 128; + exploration of northern coast, 242, 346. + + "Greenwich," observatory at winter quarters so called, 152. + + Grinnell Land, description of, 67, 72; + coast line, 94. + + Gulls, 50, 101, 332, 360. + + Guy Fawkes' day celebrated, 179. + + + Hair frozen into solid masses, 209; + effect of sledge travelling on colour of, 334. + + Hakluyt Island, 50. + + Hall Basin, 100, 101. + + Haloes, 200. + + Hannah Island, ships anchored inside, 100; + visit to, 101. + + Hans Egede, 24. + + Hans Hendrik, Eskimo engaged at Proven, 39; + endeavour to engage his brother-in-law, 48; + seal shot by, 354. + + Hares, traces of, 60, 107; + at "Alert's" winter quarters, 211; + traces of, on the Polar Sea, 296, 314; + left by Captain Nares for N. division, 321; + shot, going south, 345, 351. + + Harmonium, obtained from the "Valorous," at church, 187. + + Hartstene Bay, arrival at, 51. + + Hawks, Cape, 83. + + Hayes, Dr., 51, 52, 53, 72, 73, 85, 99, 360. + + Hayes, Cape, Eskimo remains on, 69; + ascent of, 90. + + Hayes Sound, 60; + tides in, 62; + intended exploration, 330. + + Henry Island of Hayes, not an island, 64. + + "Hercules," H.M. sledge, Lieut. W. H. May, R.N., 137, 217. + + Hilgard, Cape, Eskimo remains on, 69. + + Hoskins, Commodore A. H., sledging flagstaff presented by, 307. + + Housing for winter quarters, 154, 155, 156. + + Hudson's Bay Company's Taboggans, suitable in soft snow, 281. + + Hummocks, difficulty of marching over, on the Polar Sea, 278, 279, 281, + 284, 301; + discoloured by mud, 301; + great barrier of, 303; + great size, 304, 305; + different colours of, 316. + + Hunt, Wm., ward-room cook, H.M.S. "Alert," songs by, 214. + + Hydrostatics, lecture on, by Lieut. May, 169. + + + Ice, first seen, 22; + stream of, near Cape Farewell, 23; + the middle pack, 44, 45; + dangers, 65, 66; + occupations when detained by, 66; + ships stopped by, 57, 65, 73, 82, 90, 95, 103, 110, 113, 121, 344; + amusements on the, 77; + dock cut in the, 86; + great height of, 89; + increasing thickness, 96; + extending across Hall Basin, 100; + pressure on Cape Frederick VII., 114; + of the Polar Ocean, 127, 147, 200; + the dangerous state of the, in autumn travelling, 141; + movement of, during winter, 184; + character of, in travelling over the Polar Ocean, 284, 291, 300; + symptoms of disruption, 315, 320; + state of, on the voyage southward, 344. + (_See_ Palæocrystic, Blasting, Floe-bergs, Hummocks.) + + Ice navigation, most important maxim in, 45; + uncertainty of, 57, 64; + qualities required for, 82. + + Icebergs first sighted, 22; + constantly seen, 23; + in Disco Bay, 32, 34; + danger from, in the Waigat, 38; + indicate shoal water, 60; + danger from, off Albert Head, 65; + ships endangered by, 91; + number decreasing, 96; + innumerable, 359. + + Independence, Cape, of Kane, 98. + + Insects collected, 351. + + Isabella, Cape, 356, 357; + Captain Markham lands at, 56, 57, 95; + letters at, 358. + + Itivdliarsuk glacier, 36. + + Ivory gull, 46, 50, 101. + + + Jacobshavn, glacier of, 32. + + John Barrow, Cape, 93. + + Jolliffe, Thos., petty officer, H.M.S. "Alert," in N. division sledge + party, holds out to the end, 326 (_n._). + + Joseph Henry, Cape, 127; + Aldrich starts for, in the autumn, 136; + depôt near, 147; + dog "Sallie" lost at, 190; + arrival of sledges at, 263; + floes off, 282; + encamped abreast of, 285; + description of, 285; + northern division of sledges reaches, 321; + last seen, 343. + + + Kane, Dr., his open polar sea, 72, 98, 360. + + Kardluk Point, in the Waigat, 36. + + Kayak, difficulty of using, 30; + adventure of Mr. Wootton, 30; + Eskimo pilot in, 43. + + Kennedy Channel crossed, 103; + musk-oxen on east side of, 103. + + "Kew," magnetic observatory at winter quarters so called, 154. + + Kew Observatory, thermometer tested at, 223. + + King ducks, 50, 332. + + Knapsacks, sledging, contents, 235, 236. + + Knots, seen and secured at Distant Cape, 110. + + + Lady Franklin Inlet, 103, 111. + + Lafayette Bay (of Kane), 98, 99. + + Lancaster Sound, geology, 67; + remains of Eskimo on shores of, 68; + "Alert" off mouth of, 360. + + Lemmings, traces of, 107; + description, 115, 116; + eaten by "Nellie," 212; + traces away from the land, 278. + + Letters at Cape Isabella, 358; + at Godhavn, 363; + at Littleton Island, 358, 362. + + Lieber, Cape, 102. + + Lievely, 26. + (_See_ Godhavn.) + + Life-boat Cove, visit to, 53. + + Light, lecture on, by Lieut. Parr, R.N., 169; + return of, 207, 225. + + Lime-juice, regular daily issue of, 16; + impossibility of using, while in a frozen state, away sledging, 238; + taken on the sledges by Commander Markham and Lieut. Parr, 238; + served out to sledge crew by Commander Markham, 305; + useless unless the whole volume is thawed, 305; + its use in the treatment of scurvy, 329; + used on all sledge journeys when its use was possible, 330. + + Lincoln Bay, 115; + coast between, and Cape Union, 121; + depôt, 117, 248. + + _Little Vulgar Boy_, play acted by the officers, 214. + + Littleton Island, visit of Captain Nares and Commander Markham to, 53, + 55; + not visited, going south, 358; + mail at, 358, 362. + + Looms (_see_ Birds), 40, 41. + + Loom soup, 40. + + Louis Napoleon, Cape, Eskimo remains at, 69; + passed by the ships, 90. + + Lyngenmarkfjeld, in Disco, ascent of, 31. + + + M'Clintock, Admiral Sir Leopold, sledge of, the best, 281; + superintends outfit of expedition, 2; + his detention in the Melville Bay pack, 44; + sledge equipments superintended by, 231; + on the absurdity of taking frozen lime-juice on sledges, 238; + tea-leaves recommended by, 316. + + Magnetic observations, 31; + while sledging, 73, 180, 305; + snow observatory for, 152, 153, 209. + + Magnetism, lecture on, by Lieutenant Giffard, R.N., 169. + + "Marco Polo," H.M. sledge, 137, 217, 259. + + Marine shells found above sea-level, 116. + + Markham, Commander Albert H., R.N., visit to Littleton Island, 53; + to Cape Isabella, 56; + to Hannah Island, 101; + to Distant Cape, 110; + starts on an autumn reconnaissance, 128; + starts on second autumn sledge journey, 133; + on main autumn sledge journey, 137, 144; + in charge of magnetic observations, 154; + lecture on astronomy, 169; + parts taken by, 174, 214; + followed by a wolf, 228; + takes lime-juice on his sledge, 238; + in command of the northern division of sledges, 242, 311; + attains the most northern point ever reached by man, 309, 311; + resolves to abandon large boat, 288, 289; + serves out lime-juice, 305. + + Markham, Clements, on Eskimo wanderings, 68. + (_See_ Clements Markham.) + + "Markham Hall," storehouse at winter quarters, 152; + demolition of, 210. + + Maskell, William, H.M.S. "Alert," songs by, 169, 216; + parts taken by, 174; + sledge crew, N. division, holds out to the end, 317, 318 (_n._). + + May, Lieutenant W. H., R.N., starts on autumn travelling, 137; + severely frost-bitten, 147; + suffers amputation, 148; + astronomical observer, 152; + his lecture on hydrostatics, 169; + manager of the theatre, 214; + glee sung by, 216; + sails his sledge, 231 (_n._); + comes to the rescue of the northern division, 325; + goes to succour Aldrich's party, 331, 332. + + Medical staff, their tests of the physical capacity of the officers and + men, 15; + unremitting care of the sick, 333. + + Medical inspections, 187, 204, 258, 326, 337. + + Medical stores for sledges, 238 (_n._); + weight, 233. + + Medical instructions to commanders of sledges, 238. + + Melville Bay, 18, 44; + passage through, 44; + bear hunt in, 46. + + Melville Island, remains of Eskimo at, 69; + musk-oxen at, 106. + + Men of the expedition, selection of, 4; + tests of physical capacity, 15; + regular daily issue of lime-juice to, 16; + always reliable in an emergency, 125; + sufferings and excellent conduct in autumn travelling, 134, 145; + their good humour and wit, 146; + frost-bites and amputations, 148; + clothing during winter, 159, 160; + school for, in winter, 166, 167, 213; + theatricals, 171, 173; + Christmas cheer, 195; + fondness for dancing, 195, 197, 204; + excellent health, 204; + paleness on return of sun, 211; + heroic conduct while sledging, 277, 286, 287, 291, 302, 310, 311, + 313, 316, 352. + + Meteor, brilliant, seen at winter quarters, 201. + + Meteorites at Ovifak, 31. + + Meteorological observations, 162, 180, 183, 223. + + Middle pack, Captain Nares's resolve to take the, 44. + + Miocene Period, coal of, discovered, 347. + + Mollies, 361. + + Moon, 181. + (_See_ Paraselenæ.) + + Moravian missionaries, 24. + + Morton, Cape, 100, 102; + depôt of, 100. + + Morton, Mr., his "open polar sea," 93; + description of Cape Constitution, accurate, 98; + unable to ascend cliff, 98. + + Mosquitoes, plague in Greenland, 32. + + Moss, Dr., surgeon, H.M.S. "Alert," reading by, 168; + lecture on mock moons under the microscope, 169; + makes a balloon on Guy Fawkes' day, 180; + paints scenery for theatre, 171; + succours the northern division, 326; + sketch for bill of fare by, 335; + paints the boats, 245. + + Murchison Sound, 50. + + Musical instruments, 7. + (_See_ Harmonium, Piano.) + + Musicians in the ships of Sir H. Gilbert and John Davis, 7, 8. + + Musk-oxen, traces of, 60, 61; + hunting, 104; + range of, 106; + traces in Discovery Harbour, 107; + beef presented by "Alert" to "Discovery," 108; + hunt in Shift-Rudder Bay, 113; + quantity of meat from, 186, 204; + meat nearly stolen by dogs, 207; + in the summer, 338. + + Mustard and cress grown in the "Alert," 205, 211, 345. + + + Nares, Captain George S., R.N., resolves to take the middle pack, 44; + visits Life-boat Cove and Littleton Island, 53; + constant vigilance, 66; + visits Hannah Isle, 101; + ascends hill above Cape Morton, 102; + selects winter quarters for "Discovery," 107; + observes opening in the pack, 114; + catches a lemming, 115; + desirous of finding a more sheltered spot for winter quarters, 128, + 135; + his account of sledge travelling, 140; + lecture on astronomy, 169; + gives name to the Palæocrystic Sea, 200; + excellent health and spirits of those under his command at the + commencement of the New Year, 204; + lecture on sledging experiences, 215; + arrangement for opening communication with "Discovery," 246; + unjust attack upon, regarding lime-juice, 237; + absurdity of the charge against him, 238; + his Union Jack taken with northern division, 258; + at Cape Joseph Henry Depôt, 321; + leaves hares for northern division, 321; + comes to the relief of the northern division, 325, 327; + decision to return home, 337, 346; + anxiety for safety of Beaumont, 349; + accepts offer of coal at Egedesminde, 363; + lands at Valentia, 367; + satisfaction of the Admiralty with his conduct of the Expedition, 368. + + Narwhal hunting, 59. + + Naturalist, zeal in a gale of wind, 19; + visit to Ovifak, 31; + finds Eskimo remains at Cape Beechey, 69; + ascends hill in Bessels Bay, 101; + at distant Cape, 110. + (_See_ Feilden, Captain.) + + "Nellie," Commander Markham's black retriever, coveted by Eskimos at + Proven, 39; + dislike of Eskimo dogs, 78; + surprise at the tabogganing, 188; + stood the cold well, 188, 189; + adventure with, in the unifilar house, 209, 210; + eats the lemmings, 212; + followed by a wolf, 228. + + Nelson, Lord, an old Arctic officer, 179. + + New Year's day, 202, 203, 204. + + Nip, preparations for, 65, 71, 83; + off Cape M'Clintock, 94; + south of Cape Beechey, 348. + (_See_ Ice.) + + Norman-Lockyer Island, Eskimo remains on, 69, 74; + visited, 73. + + North extreme, camp, 307, 308; + farthest point ever reached, 309, 311. + + "North Water," of Baffin Bay, 47; + of Smith Sound, 72, 97. + + Northumberland Island, 50. + + Norton Shaw Cape, passed by the ships, 94. + + + Observations, scientific, in winter quarters, 180; + difficulties, 180; + while sledging, 305; + at farthest northern point, 307, 310. + (_See_ Magnetic, Meteorological, Astronomical.) + + Observatories, wooden, for transit instrument, 152; + magnetic, 154; + dismantling of, 227. + + Officers, selection, 4; + tests of physical capacity, 15; + amusements, 167; + lectures by, 169; + theatricals, 169, 173; + scientific observations, 180; + birthdays celebrated, 184; + Christmas, bill of fare for, 196; + approval of decision of Captain Nares to return, 337. + (_See_ under names.) + + Omenak fiord, discharging glaciers in, 38. + + Orchestra, Royal Arctic Theatre, 171. + + Osborn, Rear-Admiral Sherard, C.B., dedication to, v.; + on Eskimo wanderings, 68. + + Ovifak, visit of naturalist to, 31. + + + Pack. (_See_ Ice.) + + Palæocrystic Sea, name given, 200, 234. + (_See_ Frozen Ocean.) + + Palæocrystic floes in Robeson Channel, 92, 114, 118. + + Palæocrystic grand chorus, 216; + sung at the most northern position ever reached by man, 310. + + "Pandora" brings letters to Cape Isabella, 358; + at Godhavn, 363; + sighted in the Atlantic, 366. + + Paraselenæ, 181, 200. + + Parr, Lieut. A. C. C., R.N., ascends the hill above Bessels Bay, 101; + starts on autumn travelling, 133, 137, 144; + sledge goes through the ice, 144; + in charge of astronomical observatory, 152; + lecture on light by, 169; + takes lime-juice on his sledge, 238; + an indefatigable road-maker, 286; + sent to the ship for help, 322, 325. + + Parry, Sir Edward, his farthest northern point passed, 150; + his sense of the importance of exercising and improving the minds of + the men in winter quarters, 163, 166; + attempt to reach the pole, 243 (_n._). + + Parry Islands, Eskimo remains on shores of, 68. + + Payer Harbour, 58. + + Pearce, Alfred, H.M.S. "Alert," songs by, 216; + severely frost-bitten, 286; + attacked by scurvy, 289. + + Pemmican, 237, 270. + + Pendulum Islands, Eskimos met with near, 69. + + Petermann fiord, 100; + fine view of, 103. + + Petersen, Danish dog-driver, autumn travelling, 128, 129; + starts for "Discovery," 248; + frost-bitten, 248; + efforts to save his life, 248 to 254; + brought back to the ship, 254; + death of, 255, 321. + + Petowick glacier, 48. + + Photographing at Godhavn, 31. + + Pinkey and Collins' patent topsails, 3. + + Plants, 31, 57, 60, 74, 107. + (_See_ Vegetation.) + + Plays. (_See_ Theatricals.) + + Play-bills, 173, 175, 176, 214. + + Plymouth, visit from Commander-in-Chief, 11. + + Polar Ocean, 122, 128, 215, 234, 242; + Parry's attempt to sledge over, 243 (_n._); + march of the northern division over, 276, 311 (_see_ Hummocks), 285, + 301; + young ice, 296. + + Polaris Bay, 100; + state of lime-juice found in, 305; + sledge-crew recruiting at, 346, 349. + + "Polaris," visit to her second winter quarters, 53, 54; + her cruise, 72; + Dr. Bessels of, 92, 99; + land seen from, 101; + musk-ox shot by crew of, 106; + Eskimo kind to crew of, 360. + + Polarization of light, observations, 180. + + "Poppie," H.M. sledge, Lieut. Giffard, 217, 259. + + Poppies, 57, 74. + + Popular entertainments in winter quarters, 168, 169; + programmes, 175, 176. + + Portsmouth Dockyard, ships fitting out at, 1; + harbour, departure of expedition from, 9, 10; + return to, 368. + + Potentillas, 340. + + Prayers, 187. + (_See_ Divine service.) + + Presents to the expedition, 6, 7, 193, 194. + + President Land has no existence, 101. + + Prince Patrick Island, heavy pack on west coast of, 200. + + Prince Regent Inlet, formation of cliffs, 64, 67. + + Printing office in winter quarters, 164, 165; + prospectus, 164; + bills of fare, 185. + + Prologue, Royal Arctic Theatre, 172, 173. + + Protococcus nivalis, 48. + + Proven, arrival at, 38; + survey of, 39. + + Provisions for sledging, weight, 233; + scale, 237. + + Ptarmigan, 225. + + Pullen, Rev. W. H., chaplain, H.M.S. "Alert," glees by, 216; + lecture on Arctic plants, 169; + author of the prologue, 171, 172, 176; + leads the choir, 187; + Christmas bill of fare by, 196; + lines on the New Year by, 202; + a burlesque operetta written by, 214; + grand chorus composed by, 216; + service on departure of sledges, 258, 259; + lines welcoming return of sledges by, 336. + + + Queenstown, rendezvous at, 367. + + + Radmore, John, chief carpenter's mate, H.M.S. "Alert," sledge crew in + northern division, holds out against scurvy, 318; + to the last, 326 (_n._). + + Radmore Harbour, Eskimo's remains at, 69. + + Rainbow, 325. + + Rawlings, Thos., petty officer, H.M.S. "Alert," captain of sledge, + northern division, attacked by scurvy, 306. + + Rawlings Bay, 352. + + Rawson, Lieutenant Wyatt, R.N., joins the "Alert" from the "Discovery," + 108; + visits Distant Cape, 110; + glees by, 169; + parts taken in theatricals by, 174, 214; + skill in tabogganing, 187; + visit to snow hut built by, 212; + accompanies Egerton on journey to "Discovery," 247; + his efforts to save Petersen, 249 to 254; + arrives from "Discovery," 346. + + Rawson Cape, 219, 343. + + Records left at Cape Isabella, 57; + in cairn on Hannah Island, 101; + at extreme northern point, 312; + at Cairn Point (winter quarters), 341. + + Reindeer, Port Foulke, 52; + traces, 60; + scarce near Egedesminde, 365. + + Retrospect on New Year's day, 197. + + Reward for crossing 83rd parallel, 292 (_n._). + + Richardson Bay, 99. + + Right whales, 21. + + Rink, Dr., on the Eskimo, 33. + + Ritenbenk, expedition at, 34. + + Road-making on the ice, 273, 275, 277, 279, 286, 292, 294. + + Robeson Channel, 69; + view of, 110; + position on American chart not to be recognized, 115; + palæocrystic floes of, 118; + examination of fiords, 242. + + Rorqual whale, 21. + + Ross, Sir John, Arctic highlanders of, 48; + red snow, 48. + + Rotges, or little auks, 46, 50, 360. + + Royal Arctic Theatre, 169, 170; + prologue, 172; + plays, 173, 214. + + Rudder, arrangement for unshipping, 3; + head damaged, 67; + unshipped for a nip, 83; + seriously injured, 113; + shifted, 113; + frequent necessity for unshipping, 344; + head badly wrenched, 344, 351. + + + Sabine, Cape, 55, 57, 59; + Eskimo remains on, 69; + passed, going south, 356. + + Sails for sledges, 231 (_n._). + + "Sallie" suspected of robbing Rawson's depôt, 213. + (_See_ Dogs.) + + Salt beef, character of, 154. + + "Sanderson, his hope," shooting looms at, 40. + + Sanitary condition of the men in winter quarters, 187. + + Saxifrage, 57, 74, 340. + + Scenery of Greenland, 24; + from Disco, 31; + in Disco Bay, 35; + in the Waigat, 36; + near Cape York, 48, 50; + of the glaciers, 60; + off Cape Hawks, 83; + at winter quarters, 126; + at the extreme northern point, 310, 311. + + School in winter quarters, 165, 166; + last assemblage of, 213. + + Scientific observations in winter quarters, 180. + + Scoresby on the size of the rorqual, 21. + + Scoresby Bay, 94. + + Scurvy, 237; + premonitory symptoms, 284, 285; + dread of, 299; + increasing symptoms, 303, 304, 305, 313; + decrease of appetite, 314; + extreme weakness, 317; + outbreak on board the "Alert," 321; + true causes of the outbreak, 329, 330; + cure of patients, 333, 339, 345; + patients convalescent, 365; + outbreak in sledge crews of "Discovery," 346. + + Seals basking on the ice, 24, 45; + shot by Hans, 354. + + Selection of officers and men for Arctic service, 4. + + Self, James, A.B., H.M.S. "Alert," songs by, 216. + + Shells, marine, found above sea-level, 116. + + Shift-Rudder Bay, 114. + + Shirley, John, stoker, H.M.S. "Alert," songs by, 168; + attacked by scurvy, 282; + on the sledge, 284. + + Shooting parties in summer, 338 to 340. + + Sick. (_See_ Scurvy.) + + Simpson, Thos., H.M.S. "Alert," in sledge crew, northern division, + attacked by scurvy, 306. + + Skating, 77, 110. + + Sky, beauty of, 83. + (_See_ Meteor, Sun.) + + Sledges, description of, 231 (_n._); + sails for, 231 (_n._); + weight, 233; + boats on, 242 (_n._); + required for northern division, 244; + dog sledge sent to "Discovery," 247; + departure of sledges in the spring, 257, 258; + sledge standards, 258; + art of packing, 277; + high-runner sledges the best, 281; + (_See_ Dogs, Marco Polo, Hercules, Victoria, Bloodhound, Bulldog, + Alexandra, Challenger, Poppie, Clements Markham.) + + Sledge crews, exercise of, 227. + + Sledging, first lessons in 58; + with dogs, 79, 80, 81, 128; + first experiences, 129; + severe work, 133; + details of, 137; + shore-going notions of, 138; + realities, 139; + lecture on, by Captain Nares, 215; + grand palæocrystic chorus, 216; + preparations for, during the winter, 230; + equipments superintended by Sir Leopold M'Clintock, 231; + weights, 233; + auxiliaries and depôts, 234; + tents, 235; + cooking apparatus, 235; + contents of knapsack and storebag, 237; + scale of provisions, 237; + medical stores, 238 (_n._); + clothing, 239, 240; + programme of sledding, operations, 241; + the first encampment, 260; + intense cold, 259, 262; + arrival at autumn depôt, 263; + daily routine, 264 to 270; + road-making, 273, 275, 276; + increasing difficulties, 304; + method of advancing, 295, 304, 306, 313; + most northern encampment, 307; + extreme northern point, 309 to 311; + return journey of northern division begun, 312; + northern division reaches land, 321; + return of northern division, 327; + western division, 331, 332; + eastern division, 350. + (_See_ Autumn, Hummocks, Temperature, Foot-gear, Cook.) + + Sleeping-bags, 139, 235, 240; + weight of, 233; + frozen hard, 280, 283, 287. + + Smith, Mr. Krarup, Inspector of North Greenland, his hospitality, 26, + 29, 363. + + Smith Sound, 47, 49, 69. + + Snow, crimson, 48; + heavy falls in Smith Sound, 71, 73, 95; + in Robeson Channel, 111, 119, 121; + heavy falls during autumn travelling, 147; + buildings with, 152, 153, 154; + temperature at different depths, 162; + heavy drifts during winter, 205; + drifts while sledge travelling, 261, 287, 306. + + Snow blindness, precautions against, 240; + use of goggles, 286, 303. + + Snow bunting seen by sledge crews, 319. + + Snow hut built by Rawson, 212. + + Sorrel, 345. + + Soundings at extreme northern point, 308, 309. + + Southsea Common, farewell to the expedition from, 9, 10. + + Specific gravity observations, 180. + + Spectrum analysis observations, 180. + + Standards for sledges, 258. + + Stanton, Cape, in sight, 103. + + Steam, lecture on by Mr. Wootton, 169. + + Stone, Geo., of the "Discovery," serving on board the "Alert," songs + by, 174. + + Store-bag, sledging contents, 237. + + Stoves, 158. + + Stuckberry, Thos., petty officer, H.M.S. "Alert," parts and songs by, + 173, 216. + + Summer, 337, 339. + + Sumner, Cape, in sight, 103. + + Sun, sets at midnight, 127; + final disappearance, 141; + last view of, 148, 150; + date of final departure, 151, 178; + longing for the return of, 207; + return of, 219, 220, 221, 222; + effect of, on the ice, 207, 313. + + Sylvester heating apparatus not supplied, 158. + + Symons, Robert, A.B., H.M.S. "Alert," printer, 164 (_n._), 169, 175, + 216; + songs by, 214. + + + Tabogganing, 187. + + Taboggans, Hudson's Bay Company's sledges, suitable for soft snow, 281. + + Temperature, observations for, 162; + variations during winter, 183; + extreme cold, 223, 224; + while sledging, 259, 262, 278, 283, 286, 290, 294, 295, 302, 313, + 314, 320. + + Tents, 139; + weight, 233; + description of, 235, 260. + + Terns, 110, 332. + + Tests of physical capacity, 15. + + Theatricals, dresses, 171; + orchestra, 171; + prologue, 172; + play-bills, 173, 175, 176, 214; + plays, 173, 214. + + Thermometers tested, 224. + + Thermometrical observations, 162, 223. + (_See_ Temperature.) + + "Thursday pops," 168, 169, 175, 176, 215. + + Tidal observations at Twin Glacier Bay, 62; + in winter quarters, 161, 180. + + Tides, meeting of, at Cape Fraser, 92; + in Polar Sea, 304, 309. + + "Tigress," at Life-boat Cove, 53. + + Torske bank, fishing on, 25. + + Trafalgar day celebrated, 179. + + Turnstones, 360. + + Twin Glacier Bay, 61. + + Tyndall Glacier, 359. + + + "Unies." (_See_ Narwhals.) + + Unifilar House, 209. + + Union, Cape, 101, 103, 118; + rounded, 121, 122; + pressure on, 125, 343. + + Union Jack of Captain Nares, taken with the northern division, 258; + planted at the most northern point, 309. + + Upernivik, 41, 42, 43, 358. + + + Valentia, "Alert" at, 367. + + "Valorous," H.M.S., to take out stores to Disco, 6; + joins the Arctic ships, 11; + to make the best of her way to Disco, 14; + at Disco, 28; + kindness of captain and officers, 33; + farewell to, 35; + lost sight of, 37; + jolly-boat landed at Dobbin Bay, 84; + harmonium obtained from, 187. + + Vegetation at Godhavn, 31; + at Cape Isabella, 57; + at Twin Glacier Bay, 60; + at Norman Lockyer Island, 74; + in Discovery Harbour, 107; + lecture on Arctic plants by Mr. Pullen, 169; + of the Arctic summer, 340. + + Ventilation during winter, 158; + drip, 182. + + "Victoria," H.M. sledge, Lieut. Parr, R.N., 137, 217, 259; + goes through the ice, 144. + + Victoria Head, 67. + + Von Buch, Cape, 93. + + + Waigat, scenery of, 36; + danger from fogs and icebergs, 37; + steam out of, 38. + + Wales, H.R.H. the Prince of, visit to Arctic ships, 8. + + Wales, Prince of, Mountains, 50. + + Walrus seen on the ice, 45, 74; + hunts, 74, 75, 76. + + Walter Bathurst Cape, 360. + + Warming apparatus not supplied, 157. + + Warming arrangements during winter, 157, 158. + + Washington Irving Island, ancient cairns on, 85. + + Weights for sledging, 232; + to be dragged by each man, 233; + in Parry's expedition, 243 (_n._). + + Welcome of sledge travellers to ship, 335, 336; + of the expedition, on return to England, 368. + + Whales, 20, 21. (_See_ Cetaceans.) + + Whale Sound, 49, 359. + + White, Mr., engineer, H.M.S. "Alert," lecture on history by, 169; + part taken by, at the theatricals, 174; + improvement of sledge-cooking apparatus by, 236. + + Willow, 74. + + Wind. (_See_ Gales.) + + Winter, approach of, 126. + + Winter quarters, precarious nature of at Floe-berg Beach, 126, 132; + preparations for, 151 to 254; + routine, 160. + (_See_ Ventilation, Warming, Housing, Clothing, Fire-hole, Amusements.) + + Wolf, appearance of a, 228, 229. + + Wolves, traces of, 60, 107, 321; + alarm of, 199. + + Woman Islands, 41. + + Wood, Sergeant, H.M.S., "Alert," recitation and song by, 216. + + Woolley, Wm., H.M.S., "Alert," parts and songs by, 173. + + "Woolwich," snow powder storehouse at winter quarters so called, 154; + dismantling of, 227. + + Wootton, Mr., engineer, H.M.S. "Alert," adventure in a kayak, 30; + his lecture on steam, 169, 175; + glee sung by, 216. + + + York, Cape, 47, 49. + + Young, Sir Allen, gratitude to, for bringing out letters, 358, 362. + + + + +THE END. + +PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED, LONDON AND BECCLES. + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's The Great Frozen Sea, by Albert Hastings Markham + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 43608 *** |